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By James Macdonald, Special
Reporter for the Scotsman, Aberdeen. [Premium—Thirty Sovereigns.]
General and Introductory.
The county of Fife has
pre-eminent claims to the dignified title of the "Kingdom," with which it
is frequently honoured. It is more largely surrounded by water than any
other county in the mainland of Scotland; and few counties in the United
Kingdom are more self-supporting—so extensive and so valuable are its
manufactures, so varied and so rich are the treasures of its rocks and the
production of its soil.
Fifeshire is attached to
the mainland of Scotland only by a narrow band on the western side, where
it joins the counties of Kinross, Clackmannan, and Perth. Its other three
sides are bathed in the waters of the ocean—the south by the Firth of
Forth, the north by the Firth of Tay, and the east by the German Ocean. It
lies between 56° and 56° 28' north latitude, the "East Neuk" being in 2°
35', and the most westerly point in 3° 43' west longitude. From east to
west it averages about 36 miles, and right down the centre from north to
south it measures about 14 miles. It has been ascertained by the Ordnance
Survey that the area of the county is 513 square miles, or 328,427 acres.
About four-fifths of the whole area is under regular cultivation, the
greater portion of the remainder being under wood. The county is divided
into 64 parishes, a number of which are by no means large. The population
in 1871 was 160,735, and the number of inhabited houses 27,056. There are
in all 10,410 owners of land in the county, 8638 having less than one
acre, or 1517 acres divided amongst them; while 1772 have possessions
exceeding one acre in extent, or in all 302,846 acres. In 1872-3, when the
return of owners of land in Scotland was taken up by the Government, the
gross annual value of the possessions of 1772 large landed proprietors was
L.741,379, 10s.; and those of the 8638 small land owners, L. 164,197, 17s.
The gross annual value of the whole county, exclusive of burghs and
railways, according to the Valuation Roll for 1874-5, is L.698,470, 13s.
l0d. The total valuation of burghs is L.208,002, 8s. 4d., and of railways,
L.49,957—grand total, L.956,430, 2s. 2d.
The Board of Trade returns
for the present year (1875) state the total number of acres under all
kinds of crops, bare fallow and grass, at 243,669 acres, of which 16,748
were under wheat, 30,037 barley or bere, 37,646 oats, 1304 rye, 2483
beans, and 109 peas, being a total under grain crops of 88,327 acres. The
average under green crop was 47,460 acres—28,514 under turnips, 17,746
potatoes, 34 mangold, 23 carrots, 88 cabbage, kohl rabbi, and rape, and
1055 vetches and other green crop. Of permanent pasture there is 50,261
acres, and of grasses under rotation, 56,430 acres, and of bare fallow, or
uncropped arable land there is 1189 acres.
Though almost every corner
of the county is the scene of great enterprise and no little activity, it
cannot be said that the general aspect of Fifeshire is strikingly
commercial. On the contrary, it has the appearance of being a quiet,
retired rural spot, where the aesthetic has never been wholly lost sight
of. Few counties in Scotland, if indeed any, can boast of a larger number
of baronial residences and gentlemen's seats than are to be found studding
and beautifying the undulating landscape of Fifeshire. The number of
landed proprietors is larger than in any other county of similar size in
Scotland, and the fact that these worthy gentlemen, with a few exceptions,
have all along been in the habit of residing on their desirable
possessions in Fife, explains the preservation of the county from the
modernising hand of trade and commerce. Not that they have hampered the
spread of industry and enterprise,—they have encouraged and aided the
development of every healthy industry in a manner that reflects upon them
unbounded credit,—but they have with equal care and rigour preserved the
amenities of their native county. Even in the greatest mining centres
where coal-pits are seen to the right and to the left, the scenery is very
fine, being beautified by numerous clumps of trees; while in the purely
agricultural districts, the carefully cultivated fields are tastefully
fringed by thriving belts of wood. The surface undulates considerably, yet
there are no high hills, the point of greatest eminence—West Lomond—being-only
1713 feet above the level of the sea. The Largo Law hill, situated in the
parish of Largo, on the south coast, rises to a height of 1020 feet, and
commands a magnificent view of the Firth of Forth and the city of
Edinburgh. The Lomonds lie at the north-west of the county, and impart to
the scenery around them an aspect which contrasts strikingly with the
landscape along the seaboard. Seated on the highest eminence of these
hills on a clear day, and provided with a powerful binocular field-glass,
one can command a most exquisite view. At our feet lies the historical
Kingdom of Fife spread out like a magnificent carpet, while away in the
distance the prospect is grand in the extreme. Southwards we see the low
winding ranges of the Pentlands and the Lammermuirs, and the richly
cultivated Lothians; to the west lies, dimly shrouded, the lofty Ben
Lomond; to the north, the rugged range of the Grampians; and, turning to
the east, the prospect softens down to the blue haze of the German Ocean.
The smaller objects of attraction in this wide range are far too many to
be enumerated, but, in a word, it may be said that the prospect is one of
the finest to be had anywhere in Scotland; and what country can boast of
grander prospect than the
"Land of brown heath and
shaggy wood"?
There are no very large
plantations, the wood being pleasantly strewed over the whole county in
thriving clumps, diversifying the scenery and lending a lustre to the
charm of the landscape. The county has no less than 85 miles of a coast
line, considerable portions of which are bold and rocky, and indented here
and there by miniature bays. Between Wemyss and the "East Neuk" a pretty
large stretch is low and sandy, and parts of it strewed with massive
pieces of rock; while on the east it is irregular and very rocky, and on
the north-east plain and sandy.
There are only two rivers
worthy the name—the Eden, which rises in the parish of Arngask, and after
a quiet winding course of about 24 miles, empties itself into St Andrew's
Bay; and the Leven, which has a course of only 12 miles, rising in Loch
Leven, in the parish of Portmoak, and falling into the Firth of Forth at
Leven. The next largest stream is the Orr—a slow muddy stream winding from
the Saline hills easterly to Dysart. There are several very small
streamlets throughout the county, the most of which are tributaries of the
Eden, the Leven, or the Orr. The Eden and the Leven at one time were
valuable salmon rivers, but now mill-dams and manufactories disturb the
fish and make the rivers almost worthless in this respect. The
trout-fishing, however, is excellent on nearly all the waters, as also in
several of the lochs. There is a number of lochs in the county, but the
majority of them are very small, the principal ones being Lindores —about
four miles in circumference; Lochgelly, about three miles in
circumference; and Kilconquhar, about two miles in circumference. Moors
are neither numerous nor large, and game very scarce, hares and partridges
being the predominating species. The majority of the landlords preserve
their shootings; but it is seldom that game grievances disturb the
political atmosphere of Fife. In the higher parts, adjoining Kinross,
there is a considerable quantity of peat-moss, and deposits of moss are
met with here and there throughout the county.
One important feature of
Fife is the very large number of towns and villages that are scattered
over the county. There are no fewer than fourteen royal burghs, and a
whole host of villages, chiefly along the coast. Cupar is the county town.
It is situated on the river Eden, has a population of 5105, and is a
cleanly kept busy little town of great antiquity. By far the largest town
is Dunfermline, situated at the south-west end of the county. During the
past two centuries it has risen from an unimportant rural village to one
of the principal manufacturing towns in Scotland. It has a population of
14,963, is yearly extending in magnitude, and may be called the commercial
capital of the county. St Andrews, once the ecclesiastical capital of
Scotland, is a city of very great interest to the antiquary, because of
the peculiarly eventful character of its ancient history. It was
constituted a royal burgh by David I. in 1140, and was once a most
populous town, but since the Reformation it has dwindled away
considerably, and now it can number only 6316 inhabitants. The University
of St Andrews was founded in 1411 by Bishop Wardlaw, and is thus the
oldest university in Scotland. The "Lang Toon" (Kirkcaldy), famous for its
manufactories and as the birthplace of Adam Smith, the talented author of
the "Wealth of Nations," has an industrious population of 12,422; while
Dysart, situated on the coast two miles northeast from Kirkcaldy, numbers
8919 persons. Burntisland, a rising-watering-place, stands on the coast
almost immediately opposite Edinburgh, and has a population of 3265. It is
surrounded by scenery of great grandeur, is held in high repute as a
watering-place, and during the summer months, when it is resorted to by
hundreds of the inhabitants of Edinburgh and other towns, is the scene of
no little life. The village of Lower Largo is famous as having been the
birthplace of Alexander Selkirk, the prototype of "Robinson Crusoe," while
Anstruther-Easter, a royal burgh with a population of 1,289, ranks amongst
its sons with pardonable pride the celebrated Dr Chalmers. The ancient
history of the county of Fife is of much more than ordinary interest on
account of its being so closely connected with the life and history of the
kings of Scotland. Anything merely historical is beyond the range of this
report, but a few sentences may be given. At one time the entire district,
comprising Fife, Clackmannan, Kinross, the eastern part of Strathearn, and
the country west of the Tay, as far as the river Braan, was inhabited by
the Horestii, a Celtic race, and was designated Ross, meaning a peninsula.
The peninsula was partly divided about 450 years ago, but it was not till
1685 that the county of Fife was reduced to its present size. At the time
of the Roman invasion the Celts were driven from their peninsular domain,
and after the Romans came the Picts, who united with the Scots about the
middle of the ninth century. In 881, and in several subsequent years, the
Danes invaded the county and troubled the inhabitants dreadfully. Down
till 1424 the Thanes of Macduff held sway over the greater portion of
ancient Fife, but on the execution of their last chief, Murdoc, their
estates were confiscated to the Crown, and Falkland Palace, the residence
of the Thanes, became the property and abode of the kings of Scotland.
Since then the social atmosphere of Fife has been comparatively clear and
tranquil, while enterprise and enlightenment have all along been the order
of the day. It is worthy of mention that Malcolm Can-more, David I.,
Malcolm the Maiden, Alexander III., Robert Bruce, his Queen Elizabeth and
nephew Randolph, Annabella, Queen of Robert III., and Robert Duke of
Albany were buried in the Abbey of Dunfermline, an antiquated ruin,
founded by Malcolm III. about 1070. In digging for the foundation of the
new parish church in 1818 the tomb of Robert Bruce was discovered, and his
skeleton found wrapt in lead.
The county sends one member
to Parliament, the present representative being Sir Robert Anstruther,
Bart. of Balcaskie; while Cupar, St Andrews, East and West Anstruther,
Pittenweem, Kilrenny, and Crail have one member—Mr Edward Ellice; and
Kirkcaldy, Dysart, Kinghorn, and Burntisland another—Sir George Campbell.
Dunfermline and Inverkeithing are conjoined with the Stirling District of
Burghs; and by the Reform Act of 1868 the Universities of St Andrews and
Edinburgh were combined into one constituency, their present
representative being Dr Lyon Playfair. The county is divided into two
districts, an eastern and western, for judicial purposes, and each
division is under the jurisdiction of a sheriff-substitute. For civil
purposes it is divided into four districts, viz., Cupar, St Andrews,
Kirkcaldy, and Dunfermline.
The railway system now
extends to nearly every district of the county, while the ferry-boats at
Burntisland and Tayport bring the county into close connection with the
principal centres of trade and commerce in Scotland. The expenditure on
railways within the county during the past ten or twelve years has been
very great, and if once the branch—now in process of construction—from
Dunfermline to Inverkeithing and Queensferry were opened, the system will
be almost complete. In the matter of roads also the county is well
accommodated.
A monthly cattle market is
held at Cupar, while similar fairs take place at stated times at other
parts of the county. During the winter and spring grain markets are held
weekly at all the principal agricultural centres. The proximity and easy
access, however, to the Edinburgh markets make farmers less dependent on
the local fairs for the sale of their stock and grain than they would
otherwise be.
Population.
The following table shows
the population of the county at various stages during the past
seventy-four years:—
1801, 93,743
1811, 101,272
1821, 114,556
1831, 128,839
1841, 140,140
1861, 154,770
1871, 160,735
The increase since 1801, it
will thus be seen, is 66,992; and it is worthy of notice that the increase
has been gradual and constant. The number of inhabited houses in 1851 was
24,610, now it is 27,056, and the number of separate families 38,038. The
present population is equal to about 313 to the square mile, or little
more than 2 to each acre; or to put it exactly, 53 to every 26 acres. The
average number of persons to each house is very close on 6, The
topographical nomenclature—the touchstone of the ethnographer—of the
county of Fife is sufficient to demonstrate the fact that the aboriginal
inhabitants were Celts. The number of farms and places designated by
Celtic names is very large, and it is peculiarly interesting to note the
striking similarity that exists between the local names of Fife and those
of several of the northern counties of Scotland, a fact that speaks of a
similarity or kinship between the original inhabitants of Fife and those
of the north. The Horestii—the name given to the tribe of Celts that
originally inhabited Fife, or rather the peninsula of Ross—were not
characterised by industry or enterprise, and like their kinsmen in the
north must have had often to be satisfied with a scanty meal; for in those
days Fife is described as having been nothing else than an immense forest
full of swamps and morasses and inhabited by wild beasts. They had no
towns in their possession, but occupied hill forts, the remains of many of
which are still to be seen at several spots throughout the county. The
Horestii were almost wholly annihilated by the Romans, who in turn were
succeeded by the Picts, that ancient Celtic race, regarding whose origin
and early history so much has been written and spoken. Fifeshire formed
part of the southern boundary line of the Pictish territory, the English
having then possessed the Lothians and the independent Britons the kingdom
of Cumbria, while the Scots, another Celtic race that inhabited
ancient Scotland, or in other words the "Emerald Isle," occupied the
western coast from the Firth of Clyde to Ross-shire. Towards the middle of
the ninth century the two Celtic races—the Picts and the Scots—united, and
lived peaceably until disturbed by the ambitious Danes, who invaded Fife
in 881. From that time down till 1424, when the extensive lands of the
Thanes of Macduff (who possessed the greater portion of Fife) were, on the
execution of Murdoc the last chief of the Thanes, confiscated to the
Crown, the county frequently sustained considerable damage at the hands of
invaders. In the days of James V., who resided at Falkland Palace, the
social condition of Fife, like the most of Scotland, was not of the
brightest or the happiest description. But the reign of that unfortunate
monarch may be noted as one of the turning points, a new point of
departure, in the social history of Fife, for ever after the county has
been found in the van of progress. The advance in the social and
intellectual scale during the present century has been most marvellous;
and Mr Westwood, in his "Parochial Directory for 1862," says that "perhaps
nothing gives that progress so much prominence as the magnitude attained
by the newspaper press connected with the county. Previous to 1822 there
was no newspaper published in Fife, and the practice was to advertise
county and other public meetings in an Edinburgh newspaper, and a few
hundreds would probably cover the sum total of every newspaper that found
an entrance into the county. At present (1862) Fife can boast of ten
weekly newspapers and advertising sheets, besides three with a fortnightly
issue, having a total circulation of 25,000; nor is this all, for the
circulation of Edinburgh and other newspapers not connected with the
county is at present ten times more than it was when no native broadsheet
existed. All this, without taking into account the immense circulation of
periodicals and books of every shape and size, which forty years ago had
no existence, exhibits an intellectual progress penetrating to all classes
of our society, and exerts an educational influence unequalled in any
country or in any age of the world." Even since 1862 there has been
considerable improvement in the social condition of the county. The
educational machinery, always abreast of the times, has been improved and
extended a good deal of late, and is now second to that in no other county
in Scotland; while the position and influence of the newspaper press has
been greatly strengthened. The mining and manufacturing interests being so
extensive, the number of commercial men in the county is necessarily
large, and these as a class are sharp, shrewd, intelligent, and well to
do; while the farmers, generally speaking, are independent, industrious,
enterprising, comfortably-conditioned men, several of them wealthy. The
working population have superior advantages in the way of house
accommodation, and are well-behaved, economical, industrious, and
trustworthy. Miners, an exclusive class of men, not always credited with
peaceful social habits, form an important class in the county. Barring a
little roaring now and again, however, about strikes and trades unions,
Fifeshire has little to complain of in this respect. There is less stir
and bustle now, however, in the mining centres than some two or three
years ago, when the revolutionary movements in the mining world were at
their height. On a summer's Saturday afternoon some two years ago it was
almost an absolute impossibility for ordinary persons to obtain a cab or a
carriage of any description in Dunfermline for an hour's drive, the
miners, rampant with their ten shillings a day, having them all engaged
for a drive "into the country."
The dialect of the county
is varied. The ordinary people speak mixed Scotch, while in the higher
circles English only is heard. Throughout the county generally several
antiquated social habits still obtain. The farmers, for instance, in
speaking of the produce of their farms, calculate by the Scotch acre
instead of by the imperial acre as in most other counties, while the
ancient system of regulating rent by the fiars is still adhered to in many
cases. Sporting is indulged in only to a limited extent. There is one pack
of foxhounds and one pack of harriers, and no fewer than forty-one curling
clubs in the county; but the favourite outdoor sport seems to be the
"royal game of golf." The links at several of the towns and villages along
the coast are specially adapted for golf, and during the summer they are
all taken full advantage of. The county can also boast of a very
creditable body of mounted volunteers, as well as a strong regiment of
rifle volunteers.
Climate.
The climate of the county
is modified by proximity to the sea. It is not so variable, not so cold in
winter nor so hot in summer as in larger continental areas of country. The
climate is mild, and the air humid and healthy, while the rainfall is not
by any means heavy. In the darker ages, when the extensive valleys lay in
spongy swamps, foul mists continually shrouded the county, keeping it
constantly in a damp, disagreeable, unhealthy state. These mists are
peculiarly trying to delicate constitutions, while they foster and
encourage disease of various kinds, and man and beast often suffered very
considerably from their prevalence. As the ignorant feudalisms and rude
barbarities of ancient Fife have been swept away by the current of modern
culture and the spread of civilisation, these dingy mists have disappeared
before the enterprising agriculturist. Thorough drainage and improved
cultivation have completely revolutionised the county of Fife—have changed
it from an unhealthy swampy waste, a nursery for wild beasts, into a rich
agricultural county. Occasionally several of the valleys are still visited
by floating mists and "hoar" frosts, and in the month of July grain and
potatoes are heavily damaged thereby, while in winter turnips in low
ground often fall victims to these hoar frosts. But the loss sustained in
this way is trifling compared with what was experienced some fifty or
sixty years ago. Westerly winds prevail, but sometimes in spring and
autumn biting east winds sweep along the east coast, especially in spring,
doing slight damage to the young crops. The numerous belts and clumps of
wood, however, that stud the fields break and soften the current of the
wind, and lessen immensely the damaging effect on the crops. The climate
varies a little in some parts of the county, being a little more rigorous
in the higher lying parts than in the valleys and on the coast. Severe
passing storms of wind and rain sometimes sweep along the coast from the
German Ocean, but it is seldom that snow lies to any great depth or for
any length of time on the lands near the sea. The higher lands and hills
in the interior are often clothed in a snowy mantle in November, and
coated to the depth of several inches now and again during the winter. On
the whole, the winters are comparatively open, and agricultural operations
are rarely suspended in consequence of the weather. Rough weather seldom
prevails in spring, while the harvests, or rather autumns, are invariably
favourable. Vegetation commences early and continues far through the
season, The flora of the county is peculiarly rich, and interesting to the
botanist. The Thalami-floral orders, the Crowfoot (Ranunculaceœ) family
especially, are extremely well represented, at least one species of the
genus Tha-lictrum being found in Fife and in no other county in Scotland.
The rainfall during the year generally averages about 21½ inches, or
486,265 gallons to the acre. The following table shows the rainfall during
each of the twelve months of 1873 and 1874 at the Fife and Kinross
District Lunatic Asylum, near Cupar:—

Geology—Soils.
That well-defined valuable
group, the Carboniferous system, lying in the geological table of the
earth's crust, between the Old and New Red Sandstone, is the formation
that abounds in Fifeshire as in extensive portions of the Lothians and the
south-west of Scotland. The system, however, is not by any means intact in
the county. In almost all the Dunfermline and a considerable portion of
the Kirkcaldy district it abounds pretty exclusively. Here the coal
formation is extensive and very rich, and affords a valuable contribution
to the coal supply of our country, while it makes the west of Fife one of
the busiest centres in the "Land o' Cakes." Ironstone is abundant in
several parts of the county, and is extensively quarried at Oakley and
other works in the Dunfermline district. Lead was at one time quarried out
of the Lomond hills.
With the exception of a
narrow band running from Dunfermline to Dunino, near St Andrews, the
eastern and northern portions of the county are almost entirely destitute
of coal. On the high lands in the parishes of Cameron, Ceres, Kettle, and
Falkland, and along a ridge in the direction of Dunfermline, the
carboniferous limestone exists in great quantities, and is worked
extensively. The soil on the section of the county north of the valley of
the Eden lies on those felspathic igneous traps that are so often
connected with the Old Red Sandstone. This formation, however, does not
exist to any great extent, being confined chiefly to the valley of the
Eden, where the upper or yellow group abounds. Freestone of considerable
value is quarried at various points. Dura Den—a romantic ravine in the
neighbourhood of Cupar—is peculiarly rich in those fish fossils so
characteristic of the Old Red, and has engaged the pen of many of our most
talented geologists who have paid it a visit hammer in hand, eager to
possess some of its fossilised treasures. With all this variety of rocks
and formations throughout the county, the soil of the various districts
necessarily differs considerably, the character of the soil being
generally dependent upon the chemical condition of the rocks that underlie
it. In a few hollows on the north-west alluvial accumulations form the
soil, but with these exceptions the soil of the different districts
corresponds pretty closely to the underlying rocks. Thus in the section of
the county north of the Eden the soil is quick and fertile, the trap rocks
which abound there being rich in those "inorganic substances which are
essential to the healthy sustenance of plants." Nowhere north of the Eden
is there great depth of soil, neither is it very strong, but it is kindly,
very productive, and specially suited for the cultivation of grass. True
to the characteristics of the trap districts, the scenery and surface
north of the Eden presents great diversity—numerous irregular mounds and
many waving valleys. The soil that overlies the Carboniferous system is
generally composed of cold retentive clays and decomposed bituminous
shales, and is seldom fertile or easily cultivated. This rule still holds
good in several parts of Fife; but the advanced system of farming—the
extensive draining and the heavy manuring—of the past fifteen or twenty
years, have immensely improved the natural properties of the soil, have
changed much of it into fertile land. The Howe of Fife or Stratheden,
comprising both sides of the Eden up as far as Cupar, has rich fertile
soil, parts of it being exceedingly productive. South of the Eden the land
rises gradually until it reaches, in the parish of Cameron, an elevation
of upwards of 600 feet. On this high land the soil is cold and stiff and
of a clayey character, with a mixture of lime. Around Ladybank the soil is
very light and shingly, and presents signs of having been swept off its
richest earthy coating by a current of water. The land on the rising
ground in the parishes of Collessie, Monimail, Cults, and Kettle is
considerably heavier and more valuable than in the valley of Ladybank. In
the neighbourhood of the Lomonds the soil is light, but sharp and valuable
for grass, while similar remarks apply to the high land of Auchtermuchty,
Leslie, and Kinglassie. In the parishes of Death, Auchterderran, and
Ballingry, the land is principally cold and stiff; but several very
excellent highly-cultivated farms are to be found in these parishes. A
good deal of the land on the north side of Dunfermline is composed of clay
of a strong retentive nature, while on the south the soil is chiefly thin
loam, with a strong clayey subsoil. In the parishes of Saline, Torryburn,
and Carnock the soil is mainly a mixture of clay and loam, and is
generally very fertile. All along the coast the soil, though variable in
composition, is rich and productive. The "Laich of Dunfermline" has a
strong clayey soil, somewhat stiff to cultivate, but on the whole very
fertile. The soil on the coast from Inverkeithing to Leven varies from
light dry to strong clayey loam, rendered extremely fertile and friable by
superior cultivation. About Largo the soil is deep rich loam, and produces
magnificent crops of all kinds, while in Elie it is light but very
fertile. Along the east coast the soil is deep and strong and very
productive, consisting chiefly of clay and rich loam. Speaking generally,
very little hindrance is afforded to tillage by rolling stones or
upheavals of rock, but here and there all over the district, sloping down
from the heights in the parish of Cameron to the Firth of Forth, beds of
water-worn boulders are met with. These boulders, lying in beds or rows
from north-west to south-east, belong to the metamorphic rocks, and were
brought thither doubtlessly by floating icebergs during the glacial
period. In the neighbourhood of St Andrews the soil is by no means heavy,
while the section lying north-east of Leuchars village is sandy and very
light, especially on the east coast, where a large tract of land known as
Tent's Moor is wholly covered with sand, and almost useless for
agricultural purposes. In Forgan and part of the parish of
Ferry-Port-on-Craig, the soil, though light and variable, is kindly and
fertile. On the farm of Scotscraig there are a few fields of very superior
land.
The Progress of the past
Twenty-Five Years.
The total acreage reclaimed
in Fifeshire since 1850 is very small, almost every suitable tract of land
having been brought under the plough long before that time. The spirit of
improvement dawned early on the county of Fife, and hence all the
important reclamations date much further back than the range of this
report. In dividing and squaring up fields during the past twenty-five
years, many small patches and out-of-the-way corners that previously
produced only rough pasture have been made into cultivated land, while
around the base of hills on the borders of Kinross a few fields have been
reclaimed partly from moss and partly from strong pasture land. Draining
of course was the first operation in all those improvements, the stronger
land being trenched to a considerable depth. But though the acreage is not
greatly increased, the progress of the past twenty-five years has
nevertheless been very great. Those who recollect the state of agriculture
previous to 1850 can trace in the farms of the present day many wonderful
improvements. In fact, though a few of the older farmers still retain many
of the ancient customs,—customs that will in all probability die with
themselves,—it may almost be said that an entire change in the system of
farming has taken place in Fife during the past quarter of a century. The
science and practice of agriculture have of late years been receiving
considerable attention from a large section of the Fifeshire farmers, and
in the increased productiveness of the soil the result is showing itself
more and more strikingly every year. The expenditure for improvements
since 1850—and it has been very large—must be noted mainly against
draining, building, and fencing. Having been naturally very wet and
swampy, and next to useless in its original state, the greater portion of
the land was thoroughly drained early in the present century. Naturally,
however, these drains, never perhaps of the first order, required mending
after having done good service for perhaps a nineteen years' lease; and
during the last twenty-five or thirty years, almost the whole of the
county has been redrained.
A great deal has been done
since 1850 in the way of improving the buildings in the county. The
farmer's dwelling-houses have been immensely improved, while a very large
number of as fine farm-steadings as are to be seen anywhere in Scotland
have been erected. A very considerable amount of money has also been spent
in the erection of labourers' cottages. Almost every farm of even moderate
size in the county is now provided with servants' cottages of the most
approved construction, and we are inclined to think that in the matter of
house accommodation for the labouring classes, Fifeshire stands second to
no other county in the kingdom. An immense stretch of fencing has also
been erected since 1850; but still much, very much, remains to be done in
this respect. Ring fencing is pretty complete, but there is a great want
of interior or dividing fences. Every successive year, however, adds
greatly to supply this much-felt deficiency, and before many years have
past, it will in all probability be fully supplied. The true character or
real value of these, and all similar improvements, must of course be found
reflected in the rent-roll; and thus the following table of the total
valuation of the county (exclusive of railways and burghs) at various
periods since 1674 will be noted with interest:—

An increase during the past
twenty-five years of L. 100,696, or an average of close on L.4036 a-year,
is very creditable indeed, though it may not quite compare with the rise
in the rental during the same period in some other counties, especially in
the northern regions of Scotland. It must be kept in mind that, as already
stated, and as borne out by the table of figures just given, the principal
reclamations and improvements which go to increase the valuation of a
county were executed in Fife previous to 1850, while in these other
counties it is chiefly since then, or shortly before that date, that those
operations were carried out. The considerably greater increase during the
past half century in the value of grazing land, compared to arable land,
has also tended to retard Fifeshire in the general advance of rental.
Some half a century ago the
county of Fife occupied a slightly higher position than it does now in the
comparative valuation list of counties of Scotland. Its valuation for its
acreage, or say its valuation per acre, compared with that per acre in the
other thirty-two counties in Scotland, was slightly higher then than now.
Not that Fifeshire has been receding or sluggish in the race, on the
contrary it has been gradually and steadily moving onwards, but other
counties (taking up the good work begun by the farmers of Fife and
southern agriculturists generally, and carrying it on, too, with all that
spirit and zeal so characteristic of our Scottish farmers) have been
gaining ground upon it. Fife stands seventeenth among the Scottish
counties with respect to gross acreage, six—Inverness, Argyll, Ross,
Perth, Aberdeen, and Sutherland— being close on four times its size; while
other four—Dumfries, Ayr, Lanark, and Kirkcudbright—are nearly twice as
large. In 18.15 Fife occupied the proud position of fourth highest in
Scotland with regard to valuation, the three higher counties being Lanark,
Perth, and Ayr, while Forfar came fifth, and Aberdeen sixth. Now it stands
fifth, Aberdeen having not only made up to its spirited little rival in
the south (for little it may be called when compared with Aberdeen, a
county four times its size), but passed it by about L.17,158—a
comparatively small sum, however, taking into account the difference in
the size of the two counties. The following table shows the position Fife
occupied in 1815 and occupies now, in comparison with the sixteen counties
that exceed it in gross acreage:—

It will be seen from this
tabulated statement that Fifeshire's comparative position was a little
more prominently to the front in the early days of the present century
than now. It cannot be expected that a large annual increase of rental can
go on for ever at the same ratio. A certain point once reached, then the
increase must be limited; and we are of opinion that at 1815 the county of
Fife had attained a higher elevation in the steep hill of advancement than
most other counties between the Firth of Forth and John O'Groats. Hence
the recent apparent gaining of ground by these other counties. They have
done more than Fife, simply because they had more to do. The honour of
having the highest annual valuation per acre in Scotland belongs to
Lanark, but Fifeshire follows very closely. The total valuation of
Fifeshire for 1874-75, exclusive of railways and royal burghs, is equal to
no less than L.2, 2s. 6d. per acre, a fact that places the county in a
position of which it may well be proud. Of course Fifeshire has great
advantages by the valuable treasures of its rocks, but, after making all
due allowance for the rental of minerals and manufactories, the county
stands very high indeed in a purely agricultural point of view.
It is somewhat difficult to
ascertain exactly what the rise of the rent of arable land has been during
the past twenty-five years, but we think we are not far wrong in putting
it down at 25 per cent. From 1850 to 1860 there was a large increase of
rent on all farms, the rise in some cases amounting to as much as 50 per
cent. This large and very sudden increase was attributable chiefly to the
high price of grain and potatoes during the Crimean war. Almost every
year, from 1853 to 1867, potatoes at some time during the season reached
the high price of L. 5 per ton, and hence quite a potato mania arose in
the county. Potato land was rushed after, and fabulous rents paid for it;
and it is not too much to say that the step thus taken by a large number
of the Fifeshire farmers was the most unprofitable step that has been
attempted in the county during the last fifty years. Of this subject,
however, more anon. Since 1860 the value of clay land has considerably
decreased, owing to the low prices of grain for the crops of 1862, 1863,
and 1864, and since the latter year to the increased cost of labour and
other working expenses. One county agriculturist, whose opinion is
entitled to much consideration, assures us that "there is no increase in
the value of the rent of clay land as compared with the rents of 1850, but
that the rent of good green crop land has increased 20 per cent.;" and we
have met with several others who coincide in this opinion regarding the
clay land. We could point, however, to several clay farms that have been
slightly raised since 1850, but, speaking generally, the rise has not been
large. In fact, much of the clay land was so highly rented previous to
1850 that very little more could be added without "rack" renting the
tenants. During those few years that the Crimean war lasted the
competition for farms was so excessive that not a few were induced to
offer rents which they afterwards found themselves unable to pay, and thus
deductions had to be made in several cases, some before one half of the
lease was run. Had those fabulous prices that were paid for grain and
potatoes betweenl853 and 1867 continued, even the very highest rented farm
in the county would have proved a a most profitable speculation; but this
could not have been expected, nor, in fact, was it to be desired. During
the past ten years the increase in the rental in the Kirkcaldy district
has been no less than L. 42,516, while in the St Andrews district the
advance has been L.36,002. Manufactures and minerals have swelled the
increase in the Kirkcaldy district considerably; but in the St Andrews
district the rise is due almost entirely to an advance in the rental of
farms.- The Dunfermline district, the great mining centre of the county,
shows an increase of L.20,544, or about L.1500 more than the Cupar
district.
Modern Farming.
The system of farming that
obtains in Fife at the present day is, on the whole, of a most improved
description, and is quite abreast of the times; but before proceeding to
discuss the various farming customs, it may not be out of place to
introduce a few loose notes on a tour which the writer made throughout the
county. The starting point was Tayport, and the route—a waving one—along
the outskirts, ending where it began. It was in the "head hurry" of the
harvest, and all were busy in the fields. Cutting, a little more than half
finished, was proceeding with great rapidity in every direction, the
birring of the reaper being the prevailing sound. We visited several farms
along our course, and saw much to interest and instruct, much to admire
and little to find fault with. Close to Tayport, and situated on a slope
looking south-west, is the fine farm of Scotscraig Mains. It is the
property of Mrs Maitland Dougall of Scotscraig, is leased by Mr Peter
Christie, extends to 502 acres, and is rented at L.1210, being a rise of
about L.233 since 1864. Mr Christie, a gentleman of very extensive
experience in the valuation and cultivation of land, works the mains on
the seven-shift system of rotation, viz., 1st, oats; 2d, beans or
potatoes, or more frequently part of both; 3d, wheat; 4th, turnips; 5th,
barley; 6th, hay; and 7th, pasture. He breeds neither cattle nor sheep,
but buys in large numbers of both for the grass, and feeds them off in
winter with turnips and artificial food, of which latter commodity he uses
an immense quantity. The soil on the most of this farm is strong loam,
suitable for almost any kind of crop.
Leaving Scotscraig, and
proceeding along the north coast in the direction of Newburgh, we pass
through the parishes of Forgan, Kilmany, Balmerino, Creich, Dunbog, and
Abdie, at the northwest corner of which Newburgh is situated. In Forgan,
as all along this course, the soil is light but fertile. The principal
farms in this parish are Newton and Kirktonbarns, the former of which
extends to about 774 acres, and is leased by Mr George Ballingall, the
rent being L.1139. Mr Carswell, the proprietor of the estate of Rathillet
in Kilmany, holds the home-farm in his own hands. It extends to 643 acres,
and is valued at L.1132. The fine valuable farm of Wester Kilmany is held
by Mr Watt, and is rented at very close on L.3 per acre, or an increase of
a little over 12s. during the past ten years. The parishes of Balmerino
and Creich can boast of several extensive and very fine highly-cultivated
farms, the larger ones being Fincraig and Pitmossie, extending to 450
acres; Peasemills, measuring 348 acres; Carphin and Lutherie, 645 acres;
and Creich, 354 acres. The soil in the tract of land over which these
farms extend is very variable, as will be inferred from the fact that the
rents vary from L.l, 10s. to close on L.3 per acre. The little parish of
Dunbog, through which we next pass, contains a few large farms, but none
of them exceed L.2, 5s. per acre. The farm of Dunbar, leased by Mr John
Ballingall, extends to about 735 acres, the rent being L.910. Besides this
farm, Mr Ballingall holds several others, and pays in all between L.2400
and L.2500 of annual rent. He, like the majority of farmers in his
neighbourhood, works his farms chiefly in seven shifts, but occasionally
he takes three years' grass. He breeds and rears a large number of sheep,
while he generally owns about forty cows. He feeds very extensively, and
consumes upwards of L.1800 worth of cake every year. The soil in the
parish of Abdie varies very much, some parts of it being excellent, and
some light and very inferior. Perhaps the best farm in the parish or
neighbourhood is Park-hill, a valuable holding situated close to the royal
burgh of Newburgh. It extends to about 480 acres, and is rented at L.1420,
or an advance of about 16s. per acre since 1864, the tenant being Mr A. W.
Russell. Part of this farm lies on a low level, close on the banks of the
Tay. The fields next the river were reclaimed less than fifty years ago,
the present farmer remembering to have seen boats floating about where he
now reaps abundant crops. The soil is chiefly alluvial clay, part of it
being strong and deep. The rotation pursued on this level is eight
shifts—1st, oats; 2d, potatoes or beans; 3d, wheat; 4th, potatoes or
beans; 5th, wheat; 6th, turnips; 7th, barley; and 8th, grass. Turnips and
beans grow well, while wheat and oats grow fairly, and barley very well. A
considerable portion of the farm lies on a steep slope overlooking the Tay.
The soil here is light loam and black earth, and the rotation five shifts—
1st, oats; 2d, turnips; 3d, barley; 4th and 5th, grass. Mr Russell rears
about twenty-five calves from cross-cows and shorthorn bulls. He generally
feeds about fifty head of cattle every winter, buying in stirks or
two-year olds to supplement his own lot. An abundant supply of turnips is
liberally backed up by cake, and in the month of December Mr Russell often
sells at L.30 a-head. He is careful to buy in the best stock that can be
had, but still it is very apparent that the animals of his own • rearing
come out best in the feeding. Mr Russell has an excellent farm-steading
supplied with covered courts, and the two-year olds are kept in the house
all summer and fed on cut clover, the cows and stirks being grazed
outside.
Taking the train at
Newburgh we next land at Collessie, Passing on our way a number of large,
carefully-cultivated farms. The parishes of Strathmiglo, Abernethy,
Auchtermuchty, and Falkland, which lie on the west of the line, are very
irregular on the surface and variable in soil, the predominating kind
being light, friable, fertile loam. These parishes contain several very
large farms, rented at from L. 1 to L. 1, 15s. per acre. Close to the
Collessie Railway Station lies the compact valuable estate of Melville,
belonging to Lady Elizabeth Melville Cartwright. Mr Cartwright (Lady
Elizabeth's husband) is an enthusiastic, experienced agriculturist, and
the estate is a model of regularity and system. Considerable improvement
has been effected on the estate in various ways during the past
twenty-five years. A large breadth of very fine wood was cut down, part of
the land thus cleared being replanted and part reclaimed. One farm of 250
acres has been lined off and fenced. Of this, 100 acres were trenched at a
cost of about L.6 an acre, and having been put into regular rotation, the
farm was let to Mr Birrel for nineteen years at a rent of 15s. per acre
for the trenched land, and 3s. per acre for the unreclaimed land, which is
intended to be brought under cultivation immediately. Before the tenant
entered a new dwelling-house and farm-steading were built. The land is so
dry and porous that very little draining was required. Besides these
improvements Mr Cartwright has just erected about 12,000 yards of very
superior wire fencing. The posts and strainers are all unusually heavy and
strong, while the wire is of the best galvanised plaited description. The
wires are six in number, and are placed so as to keep in sheep. Mr
Cartwright has also erected a number of very superior labourers' cottages
throughout his estate, while at his home farm, which is under the able
superintendence of his factor Mr Andrews, he has most successfully
established a herd of polled cattle. Of the herd, however, more anon.
Adjoining his magnificent gardens Mr Cartwright has a neat little nursery,
into which he plants his young trees for a short time before planting them
permanently. The plants are brought in at the usual stage for
transplanting, but are put into the nursery for a short period to
strengthen the rootlets, a system that is found to be most advantageous to
the growth of the trees.
One of the principal farms
on the Melville estate is Nisbetfield, a very carefully cultivated
holding, lying in close proximity to Melville House, the ancient baronial
residence of the Leven family. The tenant is Mr Archibald, and the rent
about L.1, 7s. per acre, The soil generally is light loam, with a few
spots of clay. In our route from Melville towards Cupar we pass a number
of very excellent farms, large and well cultivated. In the parishes of
Dairsie and Kemback there are a few as fine farms as can be seen anywhere
in the county. About the centre of the latter parish, and close to Dura
Den— that classical spot so famous among geologists—lies the valuable
little estate of Blebo, the property of Mr Bethune, an agriculturist of
great enthusiasm, untiring energy, and considerable experience. Mr Bethune
works the home farm himself, and pursues a most advanced system of
farming. The soil is partly strong heavy clay, and partly deep able black
loam. He cultivates at a great depth, chiefly by steam, and manures well,
raising magnificent crops of all kinds, especially barley. He believes in
Mr Lawes' system of continuous barley growing, and intends giving it a
trial. The climate here is exceedingly mild and genial, and with such
fertile soil and good seed almost every grain of seed that is sown
germinates and produces a rich return. In 1873 he sowed one field with
only one and a-half bushels of barley, and had a very heavy crop yielding
seven quarters per acre, while last spring he sowed another with two
bushels, the crop of which happened to be in process of being cut when we
visited Blebo. It was extremely heavy, all laid, as thick on the ground as
it could well stand, and had the appearance of yielding from seven and
a-half to eight quarters per acre. Very fine crops of turnips and beans
are also grown here, while last year Mr Bethune had a small field of
carrots which yielded about six tons per acre, the price obtained for the
ton being L.6. Another small field was put under carrots last spring, but
they have not done quite so well, though they will yet afford a fair
return. The finely sheltered situation and the picturesque wooded policies
of Blebo fit it specially well for the rearing of stock, and Mr Bethune
has been well known for a number of years as a breeder of shorthorns,
while he breeds a few sheep and also rears or buys and feeds a large lot
of excellent cross cattle. The herd of shorthorns merits more than a mere
passing notice ; but this will be done when speaking of stock generally.
The scenery around Blebo is
magnificent, the view from the handsome mansion-house being one of the
finest to be had in the county. The Mains of Blebo, which adjoins the home
farm, is leased and very carefully cultivated by Mr Rintoul. The farm-steading
is large, commodious, and very convenient, and has admirably
well-constructed close courts. At the farm of Todhall occupied by Mr Bell,
and situated about four miles east from Cupar, one of the finest farm-steadings,
not only in Fife but even in Scotland, is to be seen. It was erected some
ten years ago by the proprietor, Mr Cheape, and when it is mentioned that
the cost was about L. 8000, some idea will be had of its character. At the
farm of Rumgally, belonging to Mr Welch, and also in this neighbourhood,
there is another very superior steading with roofed courts, though it is
not quite such an extensive one as that at Todhall. Leaving Cupar and
retracing our steps a short distance by train, we find ourselves next in
the parish at Kettle.
The farms at Ramornie and
Balmalcolm, extending to 435 acres and rented at L.1084, form the
principal holding in this neighbourhood, and are leased by one of the
leading agriculturist of the county, Mr William Dingwall. The six-shift
system, so general in the best grain-producing districts of the county, is
the rotation pursued by Mr Dingwall, but we understand that he
contemplates changing into seven shifts, taking two years' grass instead
of one as at present. The soil on these farms is partly heavy retentive
clay, partly light loam, and partly sand, and some parts moss. The heavy
clay and moss were troublesome to cultivate, and difficult to " make," so
as to allow the braird to come away properly, and some fourteen years ago
Mr Dingwall drove quicksand on to these parts, mixing the clay and moss
and the sand together. A whole field was gone over in this way, about 1000
loads being spread on every acre, and now the land, formerly yielding
indifferently, produces excellent crops of all kinds. The experiment was a
pretty expensive one, but Mr Dingwall expects to be fully repaid for his
outlay in a few years. He intends breeding a number of cattle as soon as
he can turn his farms into seven shifts, but for many years he has raised
only a few.
His cows are Galloways, or
first crosses between Galloways and shorthorns, and his stock bulls are
carefully selected from the best shorthorn herds of the day, Mr
Cruickshank, Sittyton, being frequently patronised. The calves are suckled
and fed off as two-year olds, when an average price of L.28 is generally
obtained. Mr Dingwall feeds liberally with turnips and cake, of which
latter commodity he consumes a very large quantity—about L.500 worth every
year. He takes parks in the grazing districts of the county, chiefly in
the neighbourhood of the Lomonds, and buys in stirks or two-year olds to
graze on them, but does not find the system a very remunerative one. He
thinks that the more profitable system would be to graze on his own farm.
He, like a large number of Fifeshire farmers, buys in half-bred hogs, and
feeds them on grass, turnips, and cake. He seldom sows beans, but plants a
considerable breadth of potatoes every year, and averages a return for the
market of four, five, to six tons per acre, the refuse being given to the
cattle. Oats range from five to seven quarters, barley from four to six,
and wheat from three to five per acre. The farm-steadings are good, the
cattle courts being covered, and very conveniently constructed. Mr
Dingwall keeps seven pairs of horses, and allots about sixty-two acres to
each pair. The farms of Ramornie and Balmalcolm were at one time very
liable to flooding by the overflowing of a small winding stream; but a
good deal of money has recently been spent in widening and deepening and
embanking the course of the water by neighbouring proprietors and Mr
Dingwall himself, and now no damage is suffered in this way. Proceeding a
little further on, and passing a number of large farms, we next visit the
home farm of Balbirnie, which the proprietor, Mr John Balfour of Balbirnie,
holds in his own hands. It extends to 378 acres, and is valued at about
L.1, 15s. per acre. The soil is strong and a little stiff, while the
climate is colder than in many parts of the county. Very few cattle are
bred here, or indeed on the whole estate, the majority of the farmers
preferring to buy in feeders to rearing them at home. A few shorthorns are
bred at Balbirnie, while at Balfarg a superior Clydesdale stallion and a
stud of mares are kept, Mr Balfour's tenants getting the service of the
stallion if desired. This, as might have been expected, has manifestly
improved the class of horses in the district, and Mr Balfour deserves much
credit for his liberality. The improvements on Mr Balfour's estate during
the past twenty-five years have consisted chiefly of draining and fencing,
and in providing more accommodation for the consumption of turnips and
straw than was required in the past century and in the first twenty-five
years of the present, when only about five or six acres of turnips were
grown on the largest farms in the county.
Taking the road once more,
and proceeding in the direction of Dunfermline, that busy commercial town,
famous as the burial-place of King Robert Bruce, we pass through the
parishes of Kinglassie, Auchterderran, Ballingry, and Beath. The mining
interest is very extensive in the district embracing these parishes; and
as mines and agriculture seldom flourish equally together, it could not be
expected that this would be the most valuable farming district of the
county. Nevertheless there are a number of large and very carefully
cultivated farms in these parishes. The soil is not of a very superior
character, while the climate is only moderately good; and thus the rents
are lower than in better favoured districts. A few of the farms are as
high as L.2 per acre, but, on the other hand, a large number are not much
beyond L.1. The principal farms in Kinglassie are Kininmouth, leased by Mr
Blyth, and extending to 452 acres, and rented at L.650; East and West
Pitteuchar, tenanted by Mr Gibb (who also holds Lochtybridge, a small farm
of about 100 acres), and extending to 434 acres, the rent being L.874, or
an advance of L.44 during the past ten years; and Fostertown, extending to
300 acres, and rented at L.442. The tenant of this latter farm, Mr Robert
Hutchison, and his father, have by improvements at their own expense,
raised its rent in little more than a hundred years from L.70 to the sum
above stated. Mr Hutchison is a very careful, liberal farmer, and expends
nearly double his rent in cake and manure every year. The farm of Dothan,
in Auchterderran, measures 424 acres, and is rented at L..612; while the
farm of Lumphinans in Ballingry extends to 803 acres, and is let at L.693.
Hilton, in the parish of Beath, is rented at L.375, a few pounds less than
in 1864, the extent being 460 acres.
Mr Henry Heggie leases a
valuable holding of 300 acres at the south corner of Beath, known by the
modern title of Mains of Beath. The soil is naturally good, and under five
years' liberal treatment from Mr Heggie, has improved immensely. The farm
is worked by four pairs of superior Clydesdale horses, the system of
rotation being the six shifts. Mr Heggie cultivates carefully, and manures
very heavily, and produces excellent crops of all kinds. His Swedish
turnips this year are very superior. They are regular and very large, and
look like affording a yield of from twenty-eight to thirty tons per acre,
a yield which Mr Heggie has produced more than once. In addition to a
large supply of farm-yard manure, they got six cwt. of artificial manure
per acre, viz., 1 cwt. of nitrate of soda, 3 cwt. dissolved bones, and 2
cwt. bone meal. Mr Heggie keeps eight or ten very superior cross cows, and
with these and a good shorthorn bull produces stock that invariably
carries the places of honour at the Dunfermline Cattle Show. He was-first
last two summers with two-year old cattle at this show, and had also some
prizes for sheep of his own breeding. He buys in calves to feed, and sells
them off when from sixteen to eighteen months old, at from L.21 to L.22.
For two-year olds-bred by himself he has frequently received as much as
L.36; while his hoggs generally bring about 50s. at the markets in early
summer. The houses on the farm are good, but fences-are very deficient. He
has drained a great deal at his own expense during the past five years,
and has now got it into excellent order. A few miles further west, and we
reach the thriving town of Dunfermline. In the parish which bears the name
of this town there is a large number of very fine farms, though the
Dunfermline district is equally as famous in the mining and manufacturing
as in the agricultural world. In the immediate neighbourhood of the town
there are several large holdings.
Little more than a mile
north of the town lies the farm of Ballyeoman, occupied by Mr Henry
Thompson. It extends to 212 acres, and is rented at L.329. The soil is
composed of clay, of a strong adhesive character, and the system of
rotation is the six shifts. Grain averages from five to six quarters, and
weighs—barley, 55 lbs. per bushel; oats, 42 lbs.; wheat, 63 lbs.; and
beans, 64 lbs. Mr Thompson cultivates well, ploughing stubble to the depth
of about nine inches, and lea seven inches, and manures equally well. Tor
turnips, he gives twenty tons farm-yard manure, three cwt. Peruvian guano,
and two cwt. dissolved bones per acre; and for potatoes about twenty-five
tons of farm-yard manure, without any artificial stuffs. He keeps a few
cross cows, and rears calves from these and shorthorn bulls. He buys in a
large number, however, sometimes Irish, and sometimes home-bred cattle.
The homebred cattle, as with other farmers, invariably thrive best. Mr
Thompson sells off his fat animals in the months of April, May, and June,
and receives from L.26 to L.30 a-head. Sometimes from three to four score
of sheep are wintered on the farm, and a good stock of excellent
Clydesdale horses is kept. The houses and fencing are good. Since Mr
Thompson entered the farm, a few years ago, he has effected extensive
improvements at his own expense. He has made 2000 yards of road, erected a
turnip shed, and two covered cattle courts; has cleared out 1000 yards of
old hedging, in order to enlarge and square up fields; has planted some
new hedges, built 1600 yards of stone and lime dykes, and drained about
thirty acres of land. The drains were cut about three feet deep and
sixteen feet apart.
Mr Thomas Crawford holds
several farms in the neighbourhood of Dunfermline. He resides at
Pitbauchlie, and is an experienced, careful farmer. The soil on his farms
is mostly thinnish loam, with a clayey subsoil. On part of his holdings he
pursues the six-shift system, but on a large portion he has no regular
rotation. Wheat generally yields about four quarters per acre, barley
five, oats six, beans four and a-half, turnips twenty tons, and potatoes
eight tons. He manures heavily, giving twenty-five tons of farm-yard
manure and four cwt. of guano, or dissolved bones, per acre for potatoes,
and fifteen tons farm-yard manure, with three cwt. dissolved bones and two
cwt. of guano, for turnips. He breeds no cattle, but buys in a great many,
partly to graze and partly to winter. About the autumn he usually buys in
a number of half-bred ewes, and takes a crop of lambs off them, feeding
both the ewes and the lambs, and sending them to the markets. He also buys
in a few half and three-parts bred lambs towards the fall of the year, and
feeds the latter on turnips, while the half-breds are kept for grazing the
following summer. His farms are well-stocked with strong young Clydesdale
horses. The fences and houses are bad, but the drains are in good order,
having all been renewed by Mr Crawford at his own expense. He farms very
differently from almost all his neighbours, inasmuch as he grows very
little hay, and keeps a large portion of his land in pasture for three,
four, and five years. In the parishes of Carnock, Saline, and Torryburn
the soil, though not heavy, is friable and fertile, and the farms are
generally in a high state of cultivation. The system followed is very much
in accordance with that already noticed on such farms as Ballyeoman and
Mains of Beath.
Turning southwards from
Dunfermline, and proceeding towards Inverkeithing, we pass through a
highly fertile valley, known as the "Laich of Dunfermline." It bends down
to a very low elevation, part of it being only about seventeen feet above
the level of the sea. In this valley Cromwell is said to have fought one
of his many battles, and in the process of cutting drains, several horse
shoes were dug up from a depth of three or four feet, and it is affirmed
that these shoes belonged to the horses ridden by followers or enemies of
this immortal warrior. The farm of Backmarch, lying in this valley, and
extending to about 230 acres, is tenanted by Mr Mitchell. It is worked in
six shifts, and its soil is chiefly strong adhesive clay, some parts being
strong black loam. Mr Mitchell grows excellent crops of beans and good
crops of potatoes, while oats and barley grow fairly. Turnips were usually
very subject to damage by " finger and toe," but last season he tried an
experiment which has proved an entire remedy. When the field on which the
turnips were sown last spring was in grass, he spread a slight doze of
slack lime over it, and the turnips show no signs of disease, which he
attributes entirely to the action of the lime.
Within the memory of some
of the oldest inhabitants, a large stretch of the Laich was lying in a
swampy, spongy, unhealthy state; but now it is comparatively dry, and is
one of the best cultivated parts of the county. Mr Mitchell has redrained
a good deal of the farm during the past few years ; but still a few
patches are in want of better drainage. In some of the more retentive
parts of "the farm, there are only about fifteen feet between the drains,
and still the soil is not thoroughly dry. No pick is required in cutting
the drains, and a three-feet drain can be dug at 2s. per chain. Almost all
the old drains were laid with stones, but tiles are universally used now.
The rents of a few farms in this neighbourhood have been tripled since
1800, and doubled since 1830. Proceeding by Inverkeithing along the coast
to the picturesque little village of Aberdour, we pass a number of
extensive and very highly cultivated farms. On the large and valuable
estate of the Earl of Moray, in the parishes of Dalgety, Aberdour, Beath,
and Auchtertool, numerous and very expensive improvements in the way of
fencing, draining, and building have been effected during the past
twenty-five years. A few acres of new land have been added to two or three
farms in the parish of Beath; but the total acreage reclaimed since 1850
is not by any means large.
The road from Aberdour to
Burntisland winds along the coast through most charming wooded scenery,
forming one of the most delightful walks to be had, even in the
picturesque county of Fife, and during the summer and autumn months is the
favourite saunter of many hundreds of holiday seekers, who crowd the
rising little town of Burntisland. The soil on a good deal of the land
around Aberdour, and running down to the Firth of Forth, is not by any
means heavy, but it is friable and very fertile. The farms of Dallachy and
Balram form the principal holding in the parish of Aberdour. They extend
to about 600 acres, and are rented at L.1253, the tenant being Mr Thomas
Cunningham. The greater portion of the farm of Dallachy consists of strong
fertile soil, while on Bal-ram the land is chiefly thin loam. The heavy
land is worked in seven shifts, with two years' grass, while the light
land is worked in five shifts, one green crop, two grain crops, and two
years grass. Dallachy produces excellent crops, barley sometimes yielding
as much as eight quarters per acre, the average being about seven. Barley
generally weighs from 53 lb to 56 lb per bushel, wheat about 64 lb, and
oats from 42 lb to 44 lb. It is very seldom that much grain is lost here
by bad harvests, but in 1872 Mr Cunningham sustained a loss of more than a
year's rent by wet weather. Turnips grow well, and have never been finer
than this season. The farm-steading is good, while the dwelling-house is
excellent. Mr Cunningham recently commenced to rear calves from Galloway
cows and shorthorn bulls, and as yet the experiment has been satisfactory.
Moving a little further on
we come to the highly cultivated farm of Newbigging. It extends to 280
acres, and is leased by Mr Prentice, who holds besides it the farm of
Balbairdie, extending to 350 acres, and situate in the parish of Kinghorn;
of Bankhead, also measuring 350 acres, and situate in the same parish; and
Balgreggie, extending to 130 acres, and situate in Auchterderran.
Newbigging is all arable, and grows very fine crops. This year there are
25 acres under wheat, 82 under barley, 26 under oats, 25 under potatoes,
20 under turnips, and 25 under hay. The remainder is so hilly that it is
left lying in grass, and cultivated only when the pasture gives way. Most
of this farm is on limestone rock, part of it being heavy clay and part
fine friable turnip and barley land. Newbigging is situated close to the
Grange distillery, from which Mr Prentice obtains large quantities of
draff, which enables him to keep about 100 cattle and 300 sheep every
winter. This gives him such a command of manure that he can grow almost
any sort of crop without strictly abiding by any fixed system of rotation.
Balbairdie is mostly heavy land, and here Mr Prentice has a breeding stock
of half-bred ewes, and keeps the outside land in grass as long as
possible. Four pairs of horses are employed in cultivating this farm, the
system of rotation being—1st, oats or barley; 2d, turnips; 3d, barley or
wheat; and 4th and 5th, hay and pasture. Bankhead is all fine haugh land,
lying on trap rock. With the exception of a hilly field, which is kept a
year or two longer in pasture than the rest, the whole of this farm is
worked in seven shifts—1st, oats; 2d, potatoes; 3d, wheat; 4th, turnips;
5th, barley; 6th, hay; and 7th, pasture. Barley and oats yield from 5 to 8
quarters per acre, while wheat gives about 5 quarters. The return of
potatoes ranges from 7 to 8 tons per acre. The lea is ploughed 8 inches
deep, and broken up as soon as possible in March, and sown by a drill
machine with 2½ bushels per acre on the best land and with 3½ on the
inferior land. Mr Prentice generally manures his turnips with a mixture of
artificial manure entirely, but when farm-dung can be had he gives about
12 tons to the acre. Most of the potato land is manured on the stubble
with 20 tons farm-yard manure, ploughed to as great a depth as possible,
and seasoned with from 3 cwt. to 4 cwt. of guano and dissolved bones at
the time of planting. The stubble land is generally ploughed 10 inches
deep, and when the land is steep it is ploughed downhill, the depth of the
furrow being about 12 inches. Balbairdie has all been limed and drained
within the past twenty years at the expense of Mr Prentice, who has also
expended a large sum on buildings.
The farm of Balgreggie lies
10 miles inland, and is all under grass. A large number of the cattle
required for feeding in winter are grazed here, which saves Mr Prentice
from the necessity of buying in all his winter's stock at one time. The
farm of Grange, adjoining Newbigging, and close to the town of Burntisland,
is leased by Mr Walls, and is worked in six shifts. Mr Walls usually keeps
about 24 cows, and rears their calves, buying in stirks to supplement the
winter's stock at from L.14 to L.15 a head. When fat these animals are
generally sold at from L.20 to L.28. The soil is good, and good grain and
green crops are raised. About 200 hoggs are usually wintered on the farm,
and fed or sold off lean as the state of the markets may determine.
Leaving Burntisland and proceeding eastwards, through an extremely fertile
border of land facing the Firth of Forth, we rest a little at Kirkcaldy,
around which there are several very fine farms. In the parish of Kinghorn,
which we have just passed, lies one of the best managed little properties
in the county, that belonging to Mr William Drysdale of Kilrie. Mr
Drysdale is a spirited agriculturist, and feeds a lot of very fine cattle,
not a few of which do him much credit in the Christmas and other fat
shows. The system of farming pursued in the Kirkcaldy district is almost
identical with that already described on seaside farms, and therefore we
need not waste time or space in detailing it. In the parishes of Wemyss,
Scoonie, and Largo the farms are very variable in size. The soil is also
variable, and rents range from L.1, 5s. to L.2, 10s. per acre.
One of the finest farms in
Largo is Buckthorns, occupied by Mr Beveridge. The soil is principally
rich loam and fertile clay, and heavy crops both of grain and roots are
grown. On a field on this farm we saw when passing as fine a crop of oats
as we have ever seen anywhere. Inland, a few miles from Largo, principally
in the parishes of Ceres, Cults, and Kettle, lie the valuable estates of
the Earl of Glasgow. These estates are under the able and efficient
supervision of Mr M'Leod, banker, Kirkcaldy (brother to the late
celebrated Dr Norman M'Leod), who acts as factor in Fifeshire for the
noble Earl. Since 1850 the rental of these estates for farms alone has
increased by about L.1700, while the revenue to the landlord from
limeworks has advanced from L.318 to L.900 during the same period. The
limestone is of the white variety, and when burned produces lime of very
superior quality. The demand for it is yearly increasing, large quantities
being exported out of the county. , Extensive improvements have been
effected of late in the way of draining and building, and though the rise
in the rental is pretty high, yet it does not afford a fair return for the
landlord's outlay. There is much need for more fencing on these as on all
other estates in the county, but the buildings generally are good; and
arrangements have been (or are being) made for the erection of several new
steadings and cottages. On some parts the soil is strong clay and on
others light loam. The five-shift rotation obtains for most part, only a
very small breadth of potatoes being grown.
Continuing our eastern
course, and as we approach the famous "East Neuk," we enter, perhaps, the
finest agricultural district of the county. The land all over the East
Neuk, though a little strong and retentive in some parts, is sure and very
productive, and is rented at high figures, some of it as much as L.4 and
L.5 per acre. One small patch, in fact, brings in to its fortunate
proprietor the enormous and almost unequalled rent of about L.8 per acre.
The estates of Balcarres, belonging to Sir Coutts Lindsay, Bart; of
Balcaskie, the property of Sir B. Anstruther, Bart., M.P.; Kilconquhar,
belonging to Sir John Bethune, Bart.; of Charleton, the property of Mr J.
A. Thomson; Gilston, belonging to the heirs of the late Mr Baxter; and
Gibliston, belonging to Mrs Gillespie Smyth, and situated chiefly in the
parishes of Kilconquhar, Elie, Abercrombie, and Carnbee, are under the
experienced hand of Mr Flockhart, banker, Colinsburgh. The improvements on
these estates during the past twenty-five years have consisted chiefly of
draining and building, and the sum expended in this way on the various
estates during that period has been about L.42,000. The soil varies from
thin clay to rich alluvial land, and is rented at from 17s. 6d. to L.4 per
acre. The increase of rent since 1850 has been on an average about 20 per
cent., a few farms having risen as much as 50 per cent., while others have
not advanced any. The houses are generally in good order and suitable for
the farms, but with a few exceptions fencing has been neglected. The farms
are generally well supplied with cottages, and "bothies" are now few and
far between, the majority of the servants being married. The general
system of cropping is the six-course shift, viz., 1st, oats; 2d, potatoes,
beans, or turnips (or fallow); 3d, wheat; 4th, turnips; 5th, barley; and
6th, hay. Very few cattle or sheep are bred on these estates, but a very
large number of both are bought in and fed, the sheep eating the turnips
off the light land.
Approaching nearer to the
Neuk we come upon a number of large very fine farms, almost all of which
are worked similarly to those on the estates just referred to. A belt of
land along the coast is rented at from L.3 to L.5 per acre, while about
two miles inland it falls to about L.2 or L.2, 10s., and other four miles
inland to from L1l, 10s. to L.2. Few cattle are bred in the East Neuk,
though a large number are bought in and fed. Along the coast wheat
generally yields 4½ to 6½ quarters per acre, and three or four miles
inland, from 3 to 5 quarters; barley on the coast, from 5 to 8, and three
miles inland, 3½ to 5½; and oats on the coast, from' 6 to 9. and three
miles inland, from 4½ to 7 quarters. Wheat on the coast usually weighs
from 61 lb to 63 lb; barley from 54 lb to 57 lb; and oats from 42 lb to 43
lb; the difference inland being about 2 lb in each case. The farm of
Balcomie, close to Fife Ness, is occupied by Mr George Downie. It extends
to about 297 acres, and is rented at L.1045, 10s., being an increase of
about 40 per cent. since 1864. The soil on this farm close to the shore is
easy green crop land, specially well adapted for potatoes, while about two
fields' breadth inland it is able heavy land, well adapted for wheat. The
farm is worked on six shifts. Wheat averages a return of about 5 quarters
per acre, barley 8 quarters, and oats 7 quarters. For Swedish turnips Mr
Downie usually gives about 20 tons farm-yard manure, and 5 cwt. guano per
acre; and for yellows a heavy doze of seaweed or 15 tons of farm-yard
manure, with 2 or 3 cwt. of guano. The potato land is dunged before being
ploughed out of stubble, with about 25 tons farm-yard manure per acre, or
where seaweed can be had in sufficient quantity it is applied instead of
the dung. Mr Downie and his son hold two farms in the west of Fife, both
of which are under grass and stocked with blackfaced sheep. Very few
cattle are reared; at Balcomie, but a large number are bought in and fed.
Between the East Neuk and St Andrews the soil varies a little, but is on
the whole very good, and is particularly well cultivated.
Mr Duncan of Kinkell is
perhaps the largest farmer in the county. He has been a farmer for a great
many years, and has been singularly successful, being now the possessor of
the valuable little estate of Kinkell, in the parish of St Andrews, and
the tenant of some three or four farms from other landlords in this part
of the county. The annual value of the land he farms is considerably
upwards of L.5000. His brother, Mr Duncan, the tenant of the farm of Pusk,
in the parish of Leuchars, is also well known as an enthusiastic
experienced farmer. He feeds a very large number of cattle every year,
using an immense quantity of cake and other feeding stuffs. He farms very
liberally, and grows excellent grain and green crops. Mr Reid, Cruvie, is
another very prominent farmer. His holding is situate in the parish of
Logie, extends to 526 acres, is rented at L.1031; and he displays much
care and experience in its cultivation and general management. Mr Reid has
a promising little herd of shorthorns, but it will be noticed afterwards.
Leaving the village of Leuchars and proceeding towards Tayport we pass
over "Tents Moor," an extensive level tract of land covered up with sand,
and almost useless for all agricultural purposes. Tayport is reached, and
we are now at the end of our tour, a tour which, though accomplished
hurriedly, has been both interesting and instructive. And we would fain
hope that our hasty notes, imperfect though they be, will not be
altogether devoid of interest to others.
Farming customs generally
must now be noticed. The duration of leases is almost universally 19
years. There are a few longer, a few shorter, and a few life leases; but
fortunately this latter period of tenure is now seldom, very seldom
granted. Martinmas is the usual term of entry. The first half-year's rent
is payable at the term of Whitsunday after reaping the first crop, and the
second half at Lammas thereafter, eighteen and twenty-one months after
entry. There are a few exceptions to this rule, but only a few; and on the
whole the system must be regarded as quite satisfactory to the tenant.
In the matter of land
apportionment Fifeshire is almost all that could be desired. The following
table shows the number of holdings in the county of various sizes from
under 5 to above 100 acres:—

Compared with the other
counties in Scotland, Fifeshire stands eighth on the list of farms above
100 acres, twenty-fourth of farms between 20 and 100 acres, and sixteenth
of holdings below 20 acres. The percentage of holdings below 20 acres is
45, above 20 and not exceeding 100 acres 19, above 100 acres 36. It will
thus be seen that the holdings above 100 acres are in the majority, but
the scale of increase in size from 5 to 100 acres is very gradual, while
the number of small crofts is neither too large nor too small, the county
being as near as might be in the centre of the other thirty-two Scotch
counties in this respect. Of the 808 farms above 100 acres there are only
39 above 500 acres, the large majority being between 250 and 350 acres. As
in most other Scotch counties a good many farmers hold two or three, and
perhaps four pretty large farms. It is very seldom, however, that two
farms, though leased by one man, are run together, but are judiciously
kept as separate holdings.
The system of rotation
varies a good deal; but in by far the majority of cases, especially in the
best arable districts, the six-shift course obtains, viz.:—
1. Oats.
2. Potatoes or Beans, or both.
3. Wheat.
4. Turnips.
5. Barley, and
6. Hay or Pasture.
This quick continuous
succession of grain crops is necessarily very trying to the land, and also
heavy on the labour and manure bills; and on these and various other
grounds we would decidedly prefer the seven-shift course—i.e., two years'
grass instead of one. It is said (and probably with some degree of truth)
that the soil of Fifeshire does not suit grass, and (which is more
doubtful) that it is much too highly rented to admit of its being kept two
years under pasture, or one year hay and another pasture. But were the
land thoroughly limed and sown out in good condition or not so much
exhausted during the rotation, we are pretty certain (in fact we have had
substantial proof of it) that grass would grow at least moderately, except
perhaps on a few of the very strongest clay farms. And as to the financial
part of the question, we are still more confident that the substitution of
the seven shifts for the six would be a most advantageous change. Besides
putting the land into a better and richer condition, we are satisfied that
this system of rotation would yield a larger return to the tenant at the
end of say two courses, or fourteen years. In fact, not a few hold that at
end of even one rotation it would show larger profits. Its advantages over
the six-shift course are many and various. As already hinted, less manure
and less labour, two of the most important items of the farmer's
expenditure, would be required, while it would enable farmers to keep a
larger number of cattle and sheep during summer. As matters presently
stand, only a few, a very few, cattle and sheep can be grazed in the
county. In fact, one might travel for miles through some districts during
the summer months and not see a single animal of the cattle and sheep
species, excepting perhaps a few cows which are kept at each farm to
supply milk, and a few "pet" ewes and lambs which run about the houses. A
large portion of the field sown out with grass seeds is left under hay,
and hence it is only in the higher lying and inland parts where several
farmers take two years' grass that any grazing can be had. It is argued by
many farmers, that while their land continues to be rented at its present
figure they cannot afford to employ it, or any part of it, in the rearing
of stock; in short, that the only way in which they can make a profitable
overturn of their money is to raise the greatest possible quantity of
grain and potatoes. Though the majority argue thus, a good many take a
different view of the matter.
One of the leading
agriculturists of the county with whom we happened to be discussing the
question said, " It appears to me that it would be profitable to breed
more cattle. There are a great many cattle fed, but I am of opinion that
it would be more profitable to the farmer to breed a larger and feed a
small number of cattle." That it would be advisable to lessen the number
of cattle fed we are scarcely prepared to say; but it seems perfectly
clear that it would be profitable to breed more, and at any rate graze a
great many more than at present, and that not only of cattle but also
sheep. When cattle can be reared to realise from L.28 to L.30 a-head when
twenty-four months old, it is not very easy to understand how
cattle-breeding would not be a profitable undertaking to the Fifeshire
farmers. The figures stated are not by any means beyond the general run of
prices for good two-year olds; and when an animal can produce L.28 for
twenty-four months' keep, it must be admitted that that animal affords a
very handsome return for the outlay upon it. Of course the expense of
maintaining its mother must be deducted, but even then the return is a
large one. We take it for granted that the value of the cow's milk, beyond
the nursing of her own calf, would meet the interest of the money lying on
her, and perhaps part, if not all, of the loss by "tear and wear." We do
not deny that by buying in cattle instead of rearing them himself a farmer
can make more money by the transaction "pure and simple," at least so long
as he can purchase good stirks in the months of August and September at
from L.16 to L.18 a-head and sell them off in March or April at from L.26
to L.28. But the various advantages arising to a farm by the keeping of a
herd of cows are worthy of consideration, and taking everything into
account, we are decidedly of opinion that it would be highly remunerative
for the Fifeshire farmers to breed at least one-half of their stock
themselves. Undoubtedly close and careful attention require to be paid to
a breeding stock, but they are worthy this trouble.
We do not think that it is
at all desirable that a farmer should be entirely dependent upon the
autumn or indeed any markets for a "fill" to his feeding-stalls; and at
the present day Fifeshire may be said to be entirely dependent on the
outer world for the stock it requires during winter—a very large stock it
is. It seems somewhat strange that the "Kingdom of Fife," so independent
and self-supporting in so many respects, should be entirely at the mercies
of the outside world for cattle and sheep to consume its turnips and
straw. Yet "true it is; and pity 'tis, 'tis true." A very large majority
of the cattle introduced are Irish, and hence the county is continually
kept in a state of disease, often from both pleuro-pneumonia and "foot and
mouth." During the past few years several farmers who kept no cows before,
except what were required for milk, have commenced to rear a number of
calves, while we hear of a good many more who are contemplating the same
course; and we feel pretty certain that before another quarter of a
century is past the breeding stocks of Fifeshire will not be counted by
scores but by hundreds, and that the Irishman's sway of the markets of
that county will become a thing of the past.
Every year since 1853, when
the Crimean war raised the price of potatoes to from L.4 to L.5 per ton, a
very large breadth of land has been put under this esculent; and
considering that the crop, taking an average of a rotation, is now the
opposite of a remunerative one, it seems a little surprising that so many
should have stuck to it so long. Had the price remained even at L.4 per
ton the crop would still have been a profitable one; but now that the
price has been reduced by nearly one half, and that labour, of which
potatoes require so much, has been nearly doubled since 1853, the balance
sheet for the potato held presents a very different appearance. Now every
acre of potatoes costs the farmer about L.12, and on an average of say six
years very little more is realised in the market. With few exceptions
farmers themselves admit that the potato crop does not pay; some say it is
the worst paying crop in the rotation; while one county agriculturist of
very extensive experience declares that, in his opinion, the potato mania
which arose in 1853 "has been a curse to the country." The crop, however,
has many things-to be advanced in its favour. It is peculiarly a
speculative crop, and certainly affords a very large return in some
seasons. It also prepares the land specially well for wheat, and perhaps
on this account, more than any other, it is still retained in the rotation
by a great many farmers. Rather than run the risk of losing-money by
planting potatoes, a good many farmers have of late been leaving part of
their second shift under "fallow." This enables them to cultivate and
clean the land thoroughly, giving labour to the servants during the slack
season, and resting the land so as to ensure an extra crop of wheat the
following year, a consideration which is often more important than the
small profit that might be realised from a potato crop. Potatoes
necessarily extract much of the richest substance of the soil, and it is
generally the case that after a good crop of potatoes comes a bad,, or a
moderate crop of wheat, and after a bad crop of potatoes a good crop of
wheat. Other farmers divide their second shift between potatoes and beans,
putting potatoes in the one half the one rotation and in the other half
the next; while a few add turnips, and work in a similar way with the
trio.
The time and mode of
cultivation in Fifeshire correspond very closely to the time and mode of
cultivation in most other counties in the south of Scotland. The whole of
the land intended for cropping, with the exception of the portion under
turnips, is ploughed in the autumn or winter, the depth of the lea furrow
varying from 5 to 8 inches, and that of the stubble from 8 to 12 inches.
The turnip land or clean ground is ploughed as early as practicable in the
spring, while the fields intended for turnips and potatoes are in some
cases scarified or cross ploughed or grubbed during the winter, thus
giving the frost full play upon the soil. Weeds are generally plentiful,
but, as a rule, great care is taken to clean the land well. Rolling stones
or surface boulders were never very abundant, and what did exist have long
ago been driven to the edges of the fields or utilised in drains and
fences. As will be inferred from the stiff nature of much of the land, and
the depth to which it is ploughed, the Fifeshire soil is heavy on horses;
strong Clydesdales are generally kept, and, on an average, only about 60
acres are allotted to each pair—a small breadth compared with several of
the other counties of Scotland. On the lighter soils a pair of horses
sometimes work as much as 80 acres; but taking the county as a whole, the
average is not much above what we have stated. The farmers of Fifeshire
cultivate their soil with no niggard hand. They manure liberally and
cultivate carefully; and, in fact, spare neither pains nor expense to
bring the utmost out of their holdings. Artificial manures are used very
extensively, and have been so for a considerable number of years. while an
immense quantity of the very best of farm-yard manure is made every year
and all spread on the land.
Fifeshire stands almost
unrivalled with respect to the implements employed in the cultivation of
its soil. All the most improved farm implements of the day are in use in
Fifeshire, while manual labour is economised to the utmost possible
degree. Double furrow ploughs are worked on several farms, but are not
generally approved of. The single and drill ploughs, however, have all the
modern improvements. Iron harrows are used almost exclusively, while the
sowing and reaping of the grain crops are accomplished by machinery on
nearly every farm above 50 acres, and many even below that. Steam is the
prevailing power in thrashing the grain, there being also a good many
water and horse-mills in the county. A number of portable thrashing-mills
traverse the county, and are extensively employed. In a large majority of
cases the thrashing-mills are fitted up with apparatuses for thoroughly
preparing the grain for the bags, while a great many also convey it to the
granary.
Steam Cultivation.
We know of very few
counties in Scotland better suited for cultivation by steam than Fifeshire.
Leaving out a few of the higher lying parts, and the parts most cut up by
collieries and other mineral operations, almost the whole of the remainder
of the county might be cultivated by steam. The surface, though a little
undulating, is seldom steep, and the fields are generally pretty large and
conveniently shaped. No stones (at least if there are any, they are few
and far between) would interrupt the course of the tackle, while the
advantages which the soil of the county would derive from steam
cultivation would be very important indeed. It is admitted on all hands
that steam cultivation, wherever properly managed, has had an extremely
beneficial effect on the soil; and it is on such soil as that of Fifeshire
that its influence would be felt the most. The soil of Fifeshire, as a
rule, requires deep cultivation, and much of it being very stiff and
adhesive, horses are severely tried in working it. Though it has not yet
been used very extensively, steam-power has been employed less or more on
a number of farms in the county for several years. The Scottish Steam
Cultivation Company has always two, and often three tackles working in the
county, while two or three private tackles are also employed. Mr Rintoul
of Lawhill works one tackle on his own estate, and the Hon. George
Waldegrave Leslie of Leslie purchased an 8-horse power steam tackle that
was exhibited at the Highland and Agricultural Society's Show at Glasgow
last summer ; while we understand that Mr T. L. M. Cartwright of Melville
has arranged to get a similar one. The Scottish Steam Cultivation Company
is fortunate in having for its Fifeshire representative Mr Bethune of
Blebo, a gentleman who has long advocated the desirability of the adoption
of steam cultivation, and who himself adopts it so far as is practicable.
He is one of the directors of the company, and takes a very lively
interest in everything pertaining to its welfare and to the advancement of
the great cause it seeks to promote. The company's tackles employed in
Fifeshire are under the able management of Mr Gilchrist, Carvenom,
Anstruther— a careful systematic farmer, with extensive experience in
steam cultivation.
Buildings, Roads, Fences,
and Drains.
Buildings.—As already
hinted, Fifeshire stands pre-eminent in the matter of houses of all kinds.
The dwelling-houses of the farmers, with a few exceptions, are of the
first order. They are generally large and conveniently constructed, while
with respect to architectural appearance, many of them are very handsome.
As already stated, the number of proprietors' houses is very large, and of
these by far the majority are very handsome structures, surrounded by most
magnificent gardens. It is not to the landlords' residences alone,
however, that the fine gardens are confined. They are to be found all over
the country, almost every inhabited house, even the majority of the
smallest cottages of the labourers being encircled by their fruitful
gardens. The climate of the county is extremely favourable for the growth
of fruit, and the crop of fruit of all descriptions which some of these
neat little gardens produce in a year is perfectly marvellous. House
accommodation for agricultural labourers and working people generally is
now almost all that could be desired, the improvement that has been
effected in this matter during the past thirty or forty years having been
very great indeed. With a very few exceptions, the whole of the farms in
the county are supplied with servants' cottages, and the deficiency that
still exists is speedily becoming less. The houses of the labouring
classes in the many towns and villages which are dotted over the county
are also of a superior character, and are gradually being improved where
improvement is necessary. The general character of the farm-steadings in
the county is very good indeed. They are mostly all large and commodious,
a great many of them having been erected since 1850. On almost all the
large farms, and on many of the smaller holdings, the cattle courts are
covered, or at least partially so. The advantages of a commodious
convenient farm-steading are now fully recognised on every estate, and it
is a special aim both of landlord and tenant to provide this great
desideratum. The value of covered courts has also been fully established,
and no farm-steadings are erected now-a-days without them. We do not think
that it is beneficial to have the courts wholly covered, and in by far the
majority of cases in Fifeshire only about one-half of the court is under
roof. The many and various advantages of these covered courts are already
so well known to all interested in any way in agricultural matters, that
it would be needless to enumerate them here, suffice it to say, that
without doubt they form the most valuable of all the modern improvements
in the construction of farm-buildings. So far back as 1850, covered cattle
courts were to be found in Fifeshire; one, the first in the county if we
mistake not, having been erected at Blebo home farm about twenty-six years
ago.
Roads.—The county is
particularly well supplied with roads. At an early period of the county's
history the principal public thoroughfares were very good, and of late
they have been considerably improved, while the mileage has been greatly
increased. Accommodation roads, generally speaking, are excellent; while
almost every corner of the county is particularly well supplied. There are
seven road trusts in the county, and the total annual income usually
amounts to close on L.11,000, while the expenditure is generally very
nearly as large; the roads being kept in excellent repair. Tolls still
exist in the county.
Fences.—Fifeshire being so
exclusively a grain-growing and so little a grass-producing county, it
could not be expected that fencing would form one of the leading features
of its agricultural development. Not only, however, does it not form a
leading feature, it is one of the most neglected branches in farming; in
fact, we think that there is no matter whatever connected with the
agriculture of Fife which calls so loudly for improvement as fencing. A
few farms are undoubtedly well fenced—two or three completely
enclosed—but, speaking of the county generally, there is a great and a
much-felt want of fences. King fences, or fences which separate farms, are
pretty complete in most parts, but on a very large majority of the farms
of the county interior fences are almost entirely wanting, or at least are
very partially provided. In the grazing districts of the county fences are
pretty plentiful, but in the parts where the six-shift system of rotation
obtains— and these parts represent by far the greater portion of the
county —they are very scarce indeed. So few cattle and sheep being grazed
in these last-mentioned parts, the want of fences of course presses much
more lightly than it would otherwise do; but still it is felt and
complained of too, and we doubt not but fencing will occupy a prominent
place among the Fifeshire agricultural improvements of the immediate
future. Thorough fencing is an inestimable boon to the farmer, and in fact
is almost indispensable on a grazing farm. Of the fences which presently
exist in Fife, wire predominates, but there are also a good many dykes and
a considerable stretch of hedging. Whether for substantiality or shelter,
hedging forms the best fence of all, and is being adopted much more
largely now than formerly. A large number of farmers fence their grass
fields with portable wire fences.
Drains.—The drainage of the
county is in a most efficient state. The greater portion was very fairly
drained many years ago; and during the past thirty or forty years the
whole of the county has been thoroughly redrained; a good deal of it twice
over. In many parts the subsoil is exceedingly retentive, and could not be
thoroughly dried till perfectly "riddled" with drains. On several farms
the drains are not more than from twelve to fourteen feet apart, and still
all their "drawing" powers are |