Transactions of the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland
On the Agriculture of the County of Argyll

By Duncan Clerk, Writer, Oban
[Premium - Thirty Sovereigns]

The county of Argyll formed one of the seven provinces into which Scotland was divided in ancient times. It was known under the various names of "Oirir Alban," "Oirir Ghaidheal," "Ergadia," "Aire Ghaidheal," and extended at one time as far north as Loch Broom. These boundaries were continued ecclesiastically up to nearly the middle of the seventeenth century. when the Synod of Glenelg, previously forming part of that of Argyll, was disjoined and raised into a separate court. The present boundaries, both of county and synod, are as follows, viz., on the north, Inverness-shire; on the south and west, the Atlantic Ocean; and on the east, Perthshire, Dumbartonshire and the Firth of Clyde. Its latitude is 55° 15' to 56° 55' north and longitude 4° 32' to 6° 6' west. The extreme length is 115 miles; breadth, 68 miles, measuring from the Perthshire boundary to the back of Mull. Its area is 2735 square miles of mainland, with 1063 of insular surface; in all, 3798, or about one-tenth of the area of all Scotland. It presents a combination of grandeur and picturesque beauty rarely surpassed in any region of the earth.

This county is remarkable not only for extent of surface and variety of scenery, but it holds a proud place alike in the civil and ecclesiastical history of Scotland. It is the cradle of the sovereign race, which, from the ninth to the seventeenth century, reigned over Scotland, first at Scone, then in Edinburgh, and subsequently, in the person of James VI., added the sovereignty both of England and Ireland, and is so nobly represented by Queen Victoria.

Kenneth M'Alpin, the first king of united Scotland, was unquestionably of the Dalriadic stock. The succeeding sovereigns, merging in the Stuart dynasty, all reigned in virtue of their connection, nearer or more remote, with him; and it is needless to add that the house of Brunswick reigns through its connection with the Stuarts.

In regard to ecclesiastical matters Iona was the luminary, not of the Caledonian regions only, but shed the light of the Gospel over all the north-east coast of Scotland and the north of England, and rightly' commands more reverence than any other spot in the county.

Our scope does not lead us to deal with the ancient 'history of the country, but it may be briefly mentioned that in a.d. 503, a small band of Scots from Ulster in Ireland settled in Argyllshire, and there established a kingdom known as Dalriada, which embraced the whole northern part of the county, as well as some of the islands still belonging to it. This Dalriada, after maintaining a lengthened conflict with the northern Picts or Caledonians, seems to have been overthrown by these in the eighth century. The history of the succeeding hundred years is extremely obscure; but when the light again dawns, it shows us, as already referred to, Kenneth M'Alpin,—a Scot by paternal descent, but to all appearance a northern Pict by maternal connection,—who, without opposition, reigns over the northern Picts, as well as over the Dalriadii, and eventually unites the greater part of modern Scotland under his sway.

In the twelfth century Somerled, known in his early days as Somhairle Mac Gille Bride na h-uamha, Somerled, son of Gille Bride of the Cave, was afterwards well known as Lord of Argyll. The designation above mentioned shows that his father, though . called Lord of Argyll, had been so stripped of his possessions as to be obliged to take refuge in a cave; and this was caused by the repeated invasions of the Norsemen or Scandinavians. Somerled began his career with a small following of the clan Innes in Morven, and soon subjected to himself both the southern and northern Hebrides. Thereafter he boldly stood out against innovations attempted to be introduced into Scotland by Malcolm IV, and .refused to acknowledge that king as his sovereign. The descendants of Somerled were known for a longtime as Lords of the Isles. They claimed sovereign rights, and entered into treaties with England as independent princes. All the families of Macdonald claim descent from Somerled, and while the chiefship has often been the subject of dispute among them, it is certain that Macdougall of Lorn is the lineal descendant of Dugald, a son of Somerled.

In the fourteenth century Macdougall, having opposed Robert the Bruce, was stripped of the chief portion of his lands, which the king gave, as a matter of course, to his own supporters. The greater part was given to the Stuarts, and a considerable portion to the Campbells, the chief of that clan at the time having married the king's sister—an example happily improved upon in our own day by his descendant, the Marquis of Lorn.

The county of Argyll suffered, like every other place in the kingdom, from the constant fighting carried on by neighbouring tribes, until the power of the State was fully established throughout the country. Many bloody battles were fought between Macdonalds and Campbells, and between Campbells and Macleans, chiefly about the possession of Mull and Islay. During the Montrose wars the county was first ravaged by one of the Macdonalds of Antrim, still well remembered in song and tradition as Alasdair MacColla—a very able partisan leader, and a distinguished swordsman, who came to support the cause of Charles I. Thereafter it was utterly swept by the Marquis of Montrose, who, in this pillage, and in the subsequent battle of Inverlochy (1645), did greater scathe to the Campbells than any other enemy ever did.

Alasdair MacColla eventually escaped to Ireland, but a numerous band of his followers, who defended the Castle of Dunaverty, in Kintyre, and who at length, surrendering as prisoners of war to General David Leslie, were ruthlessly put to death—a proceeding which reflects deep dishonour on an otherwise brave man and an able general. The saddest event, however, connected with the history of Argyll at any period, is the massacre of Glencoe (1692)—a deed of savage and treacherous butchery, to be traced chiefly to the Master of Stair; but which sheds infamy on all connected with it, from King William and the Earl of Breadalbane, to the meanest soldier engaged in the transaction.

The physical outline or contour of this county is very diversified, and combines as grand and picturesque scenery as any to be found in Scotland. A great part of the county consists of islands, round which the billows of the great Atlantic Ocean continually beat; and another large portion of it consists of extensive peninsulas, frequently subdivided into tongues or promontories by arms of the sea, which in some places penetrate into its inmost boundary. Thus, to the east, we have the peninsula of Cowal, formed by Loch Long and Loch Fyne, the southern point of which is subdivided into three minor horns by Loch Riddan and Loch Striven. We have the peninsula of Kintyre, 20 miles long, nearly cut off from the mainland by East and West Loch Tarbet. The district of Knapdale, joined to Kintyre by the narrow isthmus of this name, only 1½ miles broad, and often proposed to be cut through to form a canal, is at its north end; and it, too, is almost separated from the mainland by Loch Gilp and Loch Crinan. and on the western side it is deeply cut into by Loch Swein. Lorn, which is connected with Knapdale at Crinan and Carnban, is indented by many creeks and arms of the sea, such as Loch Craignish, Loch Melfort, Loch Feochan, and Loch Etive. The windings of Loch Etive are often compared to the Kyles of Bute, but the scenery around the former is much bolder and of greater variety. East of Bonawe, the loch takes a northerly direction, and amid mountains of great height and curious outline, runs inland to the close neighbourhood of Perthshire. The whole length of the loch is 22 miles. To the north-west of it we have Benderlock, bounded by Loch Etive and Loch Creran, forming a high ridge between them, with a level margin near the sea-shore. Again, we have Appin between Loch Creran and Linnhe Loch running north-east, and Loch Leven branching off to the mouth of Glencoe. North of Loch Leven we have Inverness-shire, or Nether Lochaber. After crossing the Linnhe Loch, there is the large peninsula of Ardgour, Kin-gairloch, and Morven on the one side, and Sunart and Ardna-murchan on the other, split up by Loch Sunart, which branches off from the Sound of Mull, and runs in an easterly direction about 25 miles. The north side of this peninsula and of the county is bounded in part by the ocean, thereafter by Loch. Shiel, a fresh water lake fully 20 miles long, ending at Glenfinnan, celebrated as the place where Prince Charles unfolded bis standard in the autumn of the year '45. Loch Eil, a salt water loch, branching off from the Linnhe Loch at Corpach, bounds the peninsula, and ought also to bound the county; but there is a space about three miles beyond Loch Eil which belongs to Argyllshire. There are forty of these sea-lochs or arms of the sea described in the "Sportsman's Guide" for the month of July last as good fishing places.

The fresh water lakes are also exceedingly numerous, varying in length from upwards of 20 miles to small ponds. There are 86 of these enumerated in the publication above mentioned, with a minute account of the fishing afforded by each of them. Loch Awe is not only the first of the Argyllshire lakes, but undoubtedly the second of the lakes of Scotland, and deserves special notice. It runs nearly from south-west to north-east from the Ford in Nether Lorn, to the foot of Ben Cruachan and Dalmally. The north-east end is studded with many beautiful islands, and on its banks, or rather on one of these islets at its upper end, are the ruins of Castle Caolchurn, built some three hundred years ago by the Breadalbane of the day, known in Gaelic as Cailein dubh na Roimhe, in English as the Black Knight of Borne. Inch Connal is at the south-west end, and upon it are the remains of a castle named, like the island, after Connal, one of the Ossianic heroes; and in the immediate neighbourhood are places named after Errath and Daura, also mentioned in the Ossianic poems. Loch Avich lies close to Loch Awe, and Loch na Sreinge farther west, is celebrated as the place where a distinguished ancestor of Argyll was killed in battle. He is known as Cailein mor na Sreinge,."Great Colin of the Sreang," and is buried in the churchyard of Kilchrenan.

Mountains.—With so many valleys full of water, there must be very elevated ranges of land, and the county is as remarkable for its mountain ranges as for its lochs.

Looking to the Grampians as culminating in Ben Nevis, we can follow their gradual descent towards the western sea in the various branches which they send off through Argyllshire, all nearly parallel, and radiating from the Black Mount. We have first the Cowal Mountains, inclining southward; (2) the Inveraray, Knapdale, and Kintyre range; (3) the Glen Etive, Ben Cruachan, and Lorn range, which may be traced on to the island of Islay; (4) the large mountain tracts in Appin, Morven, Ardnamurchan, and Mull.

Cruachan is the highest of all these, and is in form the most picturesque mountain in Scotland. The Glen Etive range, with the two striking peaks so appropriately named "Buachaillean," "the Shepherds of Etive," rank second to Cruachan in height. The higher of the two Shepherds towers to a height of 3341 feet. Some of the peaks in Appin, Ardgour, and Ardnamurchan approach the height of 3000 feet. Ben Cruachan is 3611 feet by Ordnance Survey.

Rivers.—The number of lochs, and the proximity of the sea to the base of the mountains, necessarily exclude rivers of any lengthened course. The Orchy, rising in the Black Mount, and flowing into the north-east end of Loch Awe, is one of the principal feeders of that lake. The Awe, by which the lake of the same name discharges its waters into Loch Etive, has a short and rapid course of less than four miles, and is among the principal salmon rivers of the Highlands. The Etive and the Kinglass fall into Loch Etive. The Creran and the Coe are in Appin. These, along with the Nant, Lonan, Feochan, and Iuchair in Lorn, the Add, flowing into Loch Crinan, and the Shira and Aray, flowing into the north end of Loch Fyne in Cowal, are among the most important on the mainland. The Lochy and the Shiel, both large and very valuable salmon rivers, separating Argyll from Inverness-shire, cannot be claimed exclusively for either county.

Islands.—The islands are many in number, important in size and productiveness, and several of them interesting both on natural and historical grounds. Mull, the Maleus of Roman geographers, is the largest of these, being 28 miles in length. Ben More, its highest mountain, is 3168 feet in height. Mull, like its parent county, is deeply indented with various arms of the sea, such as Loch nan Ceall, Loch Screden, Loch Buy, and Loch Speilve.

Islay comes next in size, and ranks first in point of fertility. It is 23 miles in length, by 20 miles in extreme breadth. The population in 1871 was 8139. It is nearly cut into two by Loch-in-daal in the south, and Loch Gruinart in the north.

Jura comes third in order, and is celebrated for the height and shape of its mountains, with their granite heads known as the Paps of Jura. Close to Jura is Scarba, which consists of one mountain, as rugged in character as those of its sister island. Between these two islands is the celebrated whirlpool of Corrie-Bhreacain, the Maelstrom of Celtic mariners, and the subject of many tales and myths in past times. To the west is the island of Colonsay, celebrated as the birthplace of the late Lord Colonsay, a lawyer in the fullest sense of the term, who adorned the highest legal offices in Scotland; and had the honour of being the first Scotchman who was transferred from the Supreme Scottish Court to a seat in the House of British Peers. His brother, Sir John M'Neill has earned deservedly great fame in the diplomatic service of his country.

Adjoining Colonsay lies the small isle of Oronsay, which ought to be better known for its beautiful ecclesiastical ruins, admirably illustrated in Pennant's "Tour." To the north of, and lying close to, the Boss of Mull is Iona, which will always be celebrated as the place where the truly great and noble Columba landed in the year ,563, and afterwards founded his monastery, where many distinguished missionaries were trained, and where kings, not of Scotland only, but of other realms, sought their final resting-place.

Staffa, the gem of the Hebrides, and within sight of Iona, has been so often visited, and so frequently sketched, that it is not necessary to describe it here. Her Majesty, Queen Victoria, was there in 1847, and says of it:—"At three we anchored close before Staffa, and immediately got into the barge, and rowed round towards the cave. As we rounded the point the wonderful basaltic formation came in sight; the appearance it presents is most extraordinary, and when we turned the corner to go into the renowned Fingal's Cave, the effect was splendid,—like a great entrance into a vaulted hall: it looked almost awful as we entered, and the barge heaved up and down on the swell of the sea. It is very high, but not longer than 227 feet, and narrower than I expected, being only 4 feet wide. The rocks under water were all colours, pink, blue, and green, which has a most beautiful and varied effect. It was the first time the British standard, with a Queen of Great Britain, her husband and children, ever entered Fingal's Cave, and the men gave three cheers, which sounded very impressive there." The island is small in size, and there is no dwelling upon it, but a few sheep and young cattle are sent there to graze.
Tiree, known as "Tir iosal an eorna," "the low land of barley," is 13 miles in length by 6 in breadth. In its neighbourhood is rocky Coll, 14 miles long and 3 broad. Lying close to Mull is Ulva, the ancient possession of the Macquarries, having a church and a school of its own. Inch Kenneth, remembered on account of Dr Johnson's elegant tribute to the refined hospitality he met with there from Sir A. Maclean and his accomplished daughters ; also Gometra, the Treshnish Isles; Calne innis forming such a breakwater in the mouth of the bay of Tobermory as constitutes it one of the safest harbours in the world. Farther north is the small island of Muck, and beyond it that of Eigg, remarkable for its geological formation, very clearly exhibited in the various strata of its Scur, or highest peak, where among other varieties are to be seen different specimens of the Pinus eggensis, an extinct pine, thoroughly silicified.

Turning to the south we have first Lismore, 10 miles long by 1½ broad, formed entirely of limestone, and consequently affording rich pasture everywhere, as its name, "the great garden," implies. Kerrera, in the immediate neighbourhood of Oban, is celebrated for its horse-shoe harbour. Gylen Castle, at the south-west end of this island, is much visited by tourists. Farther south still is Easdale, well known for its slate quarries; Seil, Luing, Shuna, Lunga, the Holy Isles, and some smaller ones. On the west coast of Kintyre we have Gigha. To the northward, again, and in the Linnhe Loch we have Stalker Island, with its old castle, and in its immediate vicinity there is the green isle of Shuna. At the mouth of Loch Creran we have the island of Eriska. Besides these there are other smaller islets too numerous to specify. The coast-line of the county, following the windings of the bays and sea-lochs, is said to extend to 600 miles.

Rental.—The following is a brief abstract of the rental of the different districts of the county, which, for the year 1877 as compared with 1876, shows a small increase, not only for the whole county, but also for each district:—

Population.—The population of the county in 1831 was 100,973; in 1851, 89,298; and in 1871, 75,679. These figures will be reverted to in the concluding remarks. There are thirty-eight parishes in the county, of which sixteen are united parishes or double charges.

Geology.—Before proceeding to soil and climate, it will be proper to make a few remarks about the geology of the county.

In the geological map of Scotland, arranged by the late Sir Roderick I. Murchison and Mr Geikie, and in the new map issued by Mr Geikie, the great proportion of the rocks of Argyllshire belongs to the Lower Silurian period. The most ancient sedimentary fossiliferous deposits known are the strata of gneiss, first studied on the river St Lawrence, and hence named the Lawrentian system. The equivalent of this system constitutes in Scotland the island of Lewis, from the Butt to Barra-head, and also occurs in the islands of Coll, Tiree, and Iona. The Lawrentian system is not represented in England or in Ireland. The Silurian rocks prevail throughout the central Highlands, and are described in the map referred to as the Grey Wacke slates and limestones of the south of Scotland, metamorphosed in the Highlands into clay, chlorite, mica slate, and gneissose rocks, based on quartzose flagstones, quartz rocks, and associated limestones. The clay slate is quarried for economical purposes at Easdale, Ballachulish, and near Carnban on the Crinan Canal. The secondary geological series of the formations is represented by the Oolitic deposits of Mull and Morven, which are fossiliferous. Deposits of coal of the Oolitic age occur in Mull. At Artunhead, in Mull, the Tertiary leaf beds occur, which were discovered by the Duke of Argyll, and are believed to be of the Mesozoic age. The basaltic rocks of Staffa are considered to belong to the same geological period. Whinstone, which is frequently found to penetrate the schistose rocks in the form of dykes or veins, is developed on an extensive scale in Mull, at Oban, and in the parishes of Muckairn and Kilchrenan. Granite occurs at Loch Etive, Bonawe, Ben Cruachan, and at the Boss of Mull. The Old Bed Sandstone appears on a limited scale near Campbeltown, and between Dunoon and Toward Point; and the Carboniferous system is represented near the Mull of Kintyre. The Bed Sandstone and conglomerate formation, which skirts the shore of the mainland at Oban, extends across to Kerrera, and is seen in the Linnhe Loch, often forming lofty and rugged cliffs, has a basis of decomposed trap, enclosing round fragments of quartz, porphyry, whinstone, feldstone, and granite. The geological age of the conglomerate has not been ascertained. It is probably as old as the Silurian rocks which it accompanies. Dunstaffanage and Dunollie Castles are built upon this rock, and it is also the basis of the ancient vitrified fort of Dunmacsniochan, or Berigon-ium, in the parish of Ardchattan.

Soil and Climate.—The soil in Argyllshire is of many and various kinds, as must be evident to anyone who looks at the variety of rocks mentioned in the foregoing geological summary, and reflects on the number of its high mountains, its glens, and its sea-lochs. Light gravelly soil and sandy loam are the most prevalent. Beat mosses are also frequently to be met with, and occasionally a few meadows composed of rich alluvial soil occur. Owing to the configuration of the land the rivers have not long courses to run, and consequently the meadows are but small in extent, while we have no deep clay lands such as are to be found in the southern portions of the kingdom. It is needless to observe that the nature of the rock generally determines the nature of the soil. At the same time there are important exceptions to this rule, and various modifying circumstances must be taken into account before we can pronounce absolutely on the subject. Thus, in Glen Etive, as in many other localities, decomposed granite makes very poor soil, while in Sunart, in the northern part of the county, the same material gives very good pasture, and, when well cultivated, remunerative crops. The same may be said of trap. In some parts of the county it is covered by heather, and in Morven it yields many rich grasses. In Glen Etive and Glenkinlass there are wide mountainous tracts, almost barren, yet elsewhere we find healthy, though coarse, pasture over similar rocks. Decomposed limestone everywhere makes rich and productive soil, which is specially seen in the island of Lismore; and clay slate, as in the islands of Seil and Luing, is scarcely inferior. The lands in these islands, whether pasture or arable, are very valuable. Mosses, when the peat is even to a small extent mixed with sand or clay, form an improvable subject, but where nothing but vegetable matter is to be found, and the roots scarcely decayed, it is much better adapted for fuel than for any agriculture purpose. Wherever rivers run moderately, they leave an alluvial deposit, forming rich level land, as, for example, the Lonan, which in its short course of a few miles has formed several valuable meadows, both in the glen to which it gives its name, and especially at the head of Loch Nell, into which it discharges itself. The quantity of natural hay yielded by these meadows is very great, and the size of the cattle pastured on them attest its nutritive qualities. Mention may be made of gravel mounds, or escars, as they are now frequently called, which are to be met with throughout the county in very great numbers. They sometimes differ entirely from the nature of the soil which surrounds them, evidently showing that they are due to the effect of drift during the glacial period; but while their surface is green, they are not generally productive. A great proportion of the arable land of Argyllshire is to be found on the raised level or terrace to be seen between the present sea margin, and an ancient one about 30 feet higher, which is to be seen around the whole of Scotland, along the south coast of England, and the north of France. This old beach or terrace is generally composed of layers of gravel and clayey sand, with frequent beds of marine shells, which, as well as the waterworn stones, speak unmistakeably of its origin, and while such a soil cannot be called rich, it makes a fair return to the farmer. Before the potato disease the yield of that valuable esculent was often very large, and exceedingly good crops of barley were also grown on it. A belt of this raised sea-beach, greatly varying in breadth, according to the general conformation of the land, is to be seen from Kintyre, the south-west of the county, to its extreme northern point in Appin, and elsewhere along the shores of all its numerous sea-lochs.

Climate.—The climate of Argyllshire is remarkably mild, considering the latitude of the county, but is very moist. The great extent of its sea-coast accounts for both these qualities. The prevailing winds are from the south and south-west. These partake of the comparatively high temperature of the Atlantic Ocean, and, at the same time surcharged with its vapour, cover its high mountains with clouds, which frequently discharge their watery contents over the neighbourhood, and always keep the atmosphere in a humid state. Snow seldom lies more than two or three days near the sea, even on the shores of Loch Eil and the Linnhe Loch, which are in the immediate vicinity of Ben Nevis—the highest mountain in Scotland; but it covers the tops of the mountains for four or five months, and Ben Cruachan is seldom clear of it before the end of July. Frost is not of long continuance in ordinary seasons, and while there are curling clubs in the county, the members complain that they do not get so much practice as their brethren in the south.

The winters are milder in Argyllshire than in many places further south, and plants are found to stand the winter in the open air that require protection in the south of Scotland, and even in England. The portions of it bordering on the Firth of Clyde have long been favourite winter retreats for those suffering from pulmonary complaints; and some medical men maintain that the natives of the western islands are almost entirely free from such complaints, which form such a fatal scourge in other portions of the kingdom.

According to the Scottish Meteorological Tables, the weather for a series of years was found to be as undernoted, the observations having been taken at Oban:—Barometer at 3 degrees, and at sea-level, 29.851; mean temperature, 47.3; rainfall, 65.29. At Dunollie the rainfall in the year ending 30th September last was 67.21.

Further returns will be seen in the Appendix.

Sheep Hill-Farms.

In treating of sheep, it would be convenient to take sheep farms by themselves, but it must be kept in mind that the best sheep ranges have often straths or low ground where black cattle are reared, and that both kinds of stock answer well together. There are portions of the county, however, more mountainous than others, and the farms in these may properly enough be called hill-farms, sheep being the leading stock. This is the case with that part of the county bordering on Perthshire, forming part of the range called "Drimalbain" in former times.

Starting, then, at Tyndrum, which is now a railway station, the large tenement of Auch will be seen to the right, and it deserves a prominent place for its sheep stock. Under the management of Mr Stewart, the stock attained a high character, and commanded the best prices at Falkirk and other markets. The pasturing was good, and the ranges extensive, including the far-famed Bendoran; but without judicious management neither sheep nor cattle would thrive as they were found to do at Auch.

This tenement was possessed in succession by Mr Charles Stewart, Mr Ogilvy, Mr Menzies, and now by Mr Robert Grieve,, who keeps a mixed stock of ewes and wethers, and manages so well that the high character of the stock is fully maintained. The rent paid by him is £1100. This and all the adjoining tenements belong to Lord Breadalbane, and are in the parish of Glenorchy, or united parish of Glenorchy and Innishael.

The neighbouring tenement of Auchalder, sometime possessed by the late Mr Donald Sinclair, produced sheep not much inferior to those of Auch; and the friendly rivalship between him and Mr Stewart helped to forward the improvement of both stocks. The present tenant is Mr Donald Stewart, at a rent of £820. He also keeps up the high character of his stock.

For the extent of bounds, the tenement of Succoth, in the same parish and on the same estate, deserves to be mentioned. It occupies the greater portion of Glenorchy, through which the railway to Dalmally passes. This tenement was long managed by Messrs M'Kay (father and son), who had a very good stock of sheep, and also summered a few scores of heifers, taking care to have the best that could be found at the local markets. Messrs J. & D. C. Willison are now the tenants, paying a rent of £1060. The stock is a mixed stock of ewes and wethers, and is well managed. Along with Succoth, the Messrs Willison have a large tenement of rich good land in the island of Luing, which affords excellent wintering ground for the hoggs.

Adjoining Succoth is Corryghoil, possessed by John Campbell at a rent of £272. He keeps a first-class stock of ewes, and is an excellent manager.

Snow lies heavily on these high lands, and the sheep suffer when there is a long continuation of it.

The remedies are to send the weaker portion of the stock to winter on lower grounds, and to attend carefully to the herding of those kept at home. The rate now charged for wintering hoggs is very high, ranging from four shillings to seven and even eight shillings. This may be called additional rent, but it is better to submit to such high rates than lose a great proportion of the young and weaker part of the stock.

There was a memorable occasion in which the sheep farmers in the district now referred to suffered severely, and the tenant of Corryghoil was ruined by it. This was the heavy snowstorm in November 1827, by which there was a great loss in sheep, and even human lives were lost. Whenever snow lies on the ground, though not so heavy as to smother the sheep, it reduces them in condition, so that many of them die before the new grass springs up for their support.

Passing down the glen towards Dalmally, and leaving Succoth behind, the tenement of Brackley will be seen. It is possessed by Mr James Crerar, who keeps a mixed blackfaced stock. The rent paid by him is £270. On the right hand side of the glen is Craig, of which Mr Peter Robertson is the tenant. He pays £212 of rent, and keeps a mixed blackfaced stock and a few cattle.

Going round by Stronmilchan, and arriving at the Bridge of Strae, the large tenement of Duiletter will be seen. It was long possessed by Captain Alexander Campbell, who kept a fairish stock of sheep, and a very good fold of black cattle. Some meadow land along the river Strae affords the means of wintering black cattle, and there was also some arable land.

Duiletter is now possessed by his son, Duncan Turner Campbell, and those of the family who remained; but they have also the large farm of Achalian, on the road to Cladich, which belongs to J. Cunliffe Kay, Esq., and the rent is £550. The stock kept is of the same description as formerly kept at Duiletter, except that wether lambs are transferred from one farm to another, so that there is ewe stock on part of their possession and wether stock on another. The fold of Highland cattle is still kept up.

Having left the Breadalbane lands on going to Achalian, it may be as well to finish a group of hill-farms, of which Ben Laoidh and Ben Buie are conspicuous portions.

Near to Achalian, but on the Breadalbane estate, is Blarachaorin, possessed by J. B. Lawes. Esq. He pays £200 of rent, and keeps a mixed stock of sheep and West Highland cattle, which are very good. There is some good arable and meadow land at Blarachaorin. After passing Cladich, and ascending towards the top of Glenera, is the tenement of Accurach, which belongs to the Duke of Argyll. The rent is £250, and Mr John M'Arthur is the tenant. He keeps a mixed stock of sheep, and summers a score or two of heifers. He has now taken a large tenement near Kingussie, and seldom resides at Accurach. Ben Buie or Ellrigmore, also on the Argyll estate, has long been known as a very important sheep tenement. The present tenant is Mr William M'Niven, who pays a rent of £707. The stock almost entirely consists of blackfaced sheep, ewes, and wethers. Drimlea, occupied by Mr H. M'Intyre, marches with Ben Buie; and the same kind of stock of sheep is kept. There are kept upon it at present about half a score of milk cows, and a score of Hying stock. Lower down the glen is the tenement of Maam, which is in Glenshirra, whilst the two last mentioned are rather at the head of it. Maam is possessed by Mr Charles Turner and sisters, at a rent of £351. The sheep are of the same kind as those above named, and there is about a score of breeding West Highland cattle and their followers. Kilblaan is the next farm down the glen, and is occupied by Mr James M'Pherson at a rent of £290. The sheep are chiefly a ewe stock, and are very good, perhaps among the best in the county. He also keeps some milch cows and flying stock.

The lower part of the glen is level and of excellent soil, and is generally let in parks, in which cattle are fattened for the market. Leaving Glenshirra, and passing Stroneshirra (which is covered with plantation), Glenfyne and the head of Loch Fyne are soon reached.

There are a few large tenements there which must be classed as hill-farms. The first to be mentioned is Dundarave and Clachan, the latter at the very head of the loch, possessed by Messrs D. Black, sen. and jun.

The rent of Clachan is £850, and of Dundarave, Cuil, &c, £300. Messrs Black keep a mixed stock of blackfaced sheep, which are very well managed.

The large tenement of Achadunan, at the head of the loch and on the Cowal side, has long been famed for its stock of cattle and sheep. It is at present possessed by Mr Duncan M'Arthur at a rent of £950. He keeps a mixed stock of blackfaced sheep.

Marching with Achadunan is the large tenement of Pole, possessed by B. H. & B. Crawford at a rent of £800.

The sheep, which are blackfaced, are good. The old coach road from Lochgoilhead to Loch Fyne passes through the farm, and there used often to be seen a herd of good West Highland cattle in the strath of the glen. Following the coach road, and ascending towards Loch Fyne, the tenement of Ardnoe is entered upon, and the houses are seen on the right hand side of the road. Ardnoe is now possessed by Mr Alexander Rintoul at a rent of £900. He keeps a good mixed stock of blackfaced sheep, Highland cattle, and Ayrshire cows. The four possessions last named are on the Ardkinglass estate, and in the parish of Kilmorich, which is joined with Lochgoilhead.

Leaving the head of Loch Fyne it is necessary to return to Dalmally, which, with its railway station, is now a central point among the mountains. Arrived then at Dalmally, and looking towards Ben Cruachan, the large tenement of Castles will be seen. Mr John Grieve has long been in possession of Castles, Drisaig, &c, which have very extensive bounds. The tenement includes the wood of Leitter, fringing Loch Awe and the base of Ben Cruachan for six miles, and having its north-west boundary at the pass of Brander. The rent is £750, and the stock is blackfaced sheep, ewes, and wethers. A considerable number of cattle can be summered on this farm. Mr Grieve is an excellent manager of sheep and cattle, and has often been called upon to act as a valuator of sheep stock on a change of tenants. A portion of Ben Cruachan is within the bounds just mentioned, at the whole front of the mountain belongs to Inverawe.

Inverawe and Grundachy used to be joined together, and the late Mr Charles Johnstone possessed them along with other lands on the lower side of the river. His heirs have Grundachy at £180 of rent, and keep good blackfaced sheep. The pasture is better at Grundachy than on any other part of Ben Cruachan.

Inverawe is now possessed by Mr James Jardine, a Dumfries farmer, and he has a mixture of whitefaced sheep among the blackfaced stock. Marching with Inverawe, and occupying the back part of Ben Cruachan, is the tenement of Glenoe and Dua, possessed by Messrs D. & J. Campbell, who are excellent managers of sheep. The stock is mixed of blackfaced sheep, and is very good.

Glenoe will summer about a score of cattle, but very few can be wintered. The rent is £350, and both it and the other tenements in Glen Etive, to be immediately mentioned, are on the Breadalbane estates.

Next to Glenoe is Inverliver, possessed by Messrs J. M. & N. Campbell, sons of the late Mr John Campbell, who was an excellent judge of sheep, and a man much trusted and respected in the county. The rent of Inverliver is £350, and the stock kept is of the same description as that of Glenoe, with the exception that Inverliver admits of black cattle being kept. There is more of level ground along the shore than at Glenoe, and some crop can be raised, sufficient for wintering them. Messrs Campbell have a small fold of tidy cows and their followers, and they are of the best description.

The next tenement on that side of Loch Etive is Acharn, Ardmaddy, &c, possessed by Messrs B. & J. Crerar and Mr William Campbell, and the rent is the same as that of Inverliver.

Acharn is back from Loch Etive and into Glenkinlass. There is some meadow land along the river Kinglass, so that a few black cattle can be kept. After leaving Ardmaddy, the deer forest, forming part of the Black Mount range, commences. Dalaness, at the head of the glen, has been for a long time under deer. These lands are so rugged and wild that they are much more fitted for deer than for sheep, and still there used to be good sheep kept on portions of them, such as at Glenketlan. It was long possessed by Mr Peter Campbell, father of the present tenants of Glenoe, and uncle of those at Inverliver.

On crossing the river Etive, the mansion-house erected by Mr Greaves will be seen. He lately purchased the lands of Invercharnan, Drumachois, &c., which formerly belonged to Mr Campbell of Monzie. Mr Greaves has all the lands in his own hands, and is making many improvements in planting, erecting fences, &c.

Leaving Drumachois, the Wood of Barrs will be seen stretching for some miles along the north side of Loch Etive. From the shelter afforded by the brushwood, and the sunny exposure, the Wood of Barrs was found an excellent place for wintering hoggs. When Mr Sinclair was tenant of Glenoe he had it for this purpose, and for summering young cattle. Both places belong to Lord Breadalbane.

Barrs is the only portion of the west side of the loch that belongs to the Breadalbane estate. This place is now joined to the tenement of Glenure, on the other side of the hill, and will be mentioned on coming to Glenure. To the west of it Ardchattan estate, belonging to Mrs Popham, begins. Daill and Cadderly are the first two farms, but they also have lately been joined to other tenements to be immediately mentioned. Passing down to Island Ferry, and leaving the granite quarries behind, Blarcreen, beautifully, situated at the base of Bendurinis and at one of the curves of Loch Etive, will be seen. The tenement now consists of Blarcreen, Inveresragain, Craig, Kineraig, and Cadderly, all possessed by Mr Angus Buchanan at a rent of £800. The sheep stock is blackfaced, and moderately good in quality. A fold of cows and their followers is kept, and there is a considerable extent of arable land at Blarcreen and Inveresragain. The soil is thin, but good crops are generally raised, and there is more than sufficient for the use of the farm. Potatoes, for instance, thrive very well there, and a considerable quantity can be spared for the market. Benbhreac, which is joined to Achinreir, marches with Inveresragain. Achinreir was long possessed by Mr Donald Sinclair, and latterly by his two sons. Mr Sinclair was an excellent manager of sheep and cattle, and was often asked to act as judge at cattle shows, and as valuator of sheep stocks. The sons quitted possession at Whitsunday last, and Mr Angus Buchanan, junior, is now the tenant. The cattle, which were pure West Highland, and very good, were sold by public roup at Whitsunday, and realised good prices. The young cattle also sold well. The rent is £465, but varies with prices at Falkirk market.

On reaching Loch Creran at Barcaldine, and leaving the beautiful mansion and parks behind, and turning to the right, Dalachulish is the first considerable sheep farm. It is possessed by Mr Hugh M'Coll at a rent of £325, and he now has joined to it Daill in Glen Etive, of which the rent is £65. It is an excellent sheep range from the one loch to the other, and Mr M'Coll does full justice to the stock. There is some arable land at Dalachulish, and a small fold of Highland cattle is kept. Both Achinreir and Dalachulish are on the Barcaldine property, now belonging to Mrs Mary Cameron. After leaving the end of the loch, and entering Glen Creran, the farm of Tarphocan is seen on the right hand side of the river. The hill is not favourable for producing sheep of a large size, but under the careful management of Messrs J. & D. M'Kenzie the stock was put into a fair condition, and is still kept so by the surviving brother and his sons. D. M'Kenzie made a point of being in the hill once a day, and such care will always reward itself. The rent of the tenement is £300.

Further on in the same direction Glenure will be reached, and the tenement is well suited for sheep and cattle. The Wood of Barrs in Glen Etive is now joined to it, to the great advantage of the sheep stock, and the tenants, Messrs John & James M'Kay, will turn this to good account. They have also Glenstockdale in Appin, and the home farm and parks of Kinlochlaich. They have sheep on the hill, and a flying stock of stots and heifers, of the best they can get to purchase, on the low grounds. Bound the head of Loch Creran, and on the Appin side, there is the tenement of Salachail, possessed by Messrs J. & A. M'Nicol. The rent is £315, and they keep whitefaced sheep, ewes, and wethers, and a few cows. After passing Origan Ferry, and turning to the right, there is the farm of Invernahoyle, possessed by Mr D. M'Vean at a rent of £390. He keeps a ewe stock, blackfaced. He also keeps some tidy cows, with their followers. The Strath of Appin, which is excellent land, and well cultivated, may be passed over at present, and Glenstockdale may be passed through as having already been mentioned in connection with Glenure and Messrs M'Kay.

Salachan and Belloch are at the east end of Glenstockdale, and are possessed by Mr John M'Intyre. The rent is £265. Beyond Salachan and at the back of Appin are the farms of Lugnaha, Acharra, Keil, and others. The farm of Lugnaha (proprietor, G. Gardiner, Esq.) is presently possessed by Mr John G. Anderson, who pays a rent of £220. He keeps a stock of Ayrshire cows and blackfaced sheep. Next comes Keil, belonging to Mrs M'Alpine Leny of Duror. It is occupied by Mr John M'Intyre, who pays a rent of £150. His stock consists of Highland cattle and blackfaced sheep. The farm of Acharra (proprietor, A. D. Anderson, Esq., of Ardsheal) is possessed by Mr Lachlan Campbell, who pays a rent of £142. The stock consists of Highland cattle and blackfaced sheep.

Achindarroch (proprietor, G. Gardiner, Esq., of Ardsheal) is possessed by Mr James Scott at a rent of £433. He keeps Highland cattle and blackfaced sheep. Ardsheal home farm is occupied by the. proprietor, A. D. Anderson, Esq., who keeps a fold of Highland cattle, very good and rapidly improving. The estimated rent is £230.

Ballachulish home farm, belonging to LadyBeresford,is occupied by Mr James Scott, who pays for it a rent of £227, 10s. His stock consists of Ayrshire cows and blackfaced sheep, strong and good. further on, and at the mouth of Glencoe, is the tenement of Achnacoan, Invervagain, &c., possessed by Messrs. S. & W. E. Farish at a rent of £398. A grand sheep tenement of the same class as those around it.

Mr Duncan Buchanan, Caolasnacoan, now rents a number of farms - Caolasnacoan, £160; Invercoe home farm, £135; Auchtrichtan, &c, £290. Blackfaced sheep are the stock to which Mr Buchanan has devoted his attention for a long time, and he has been very successful in his management of them.

The mountains and crags about Glencoe are not very fit for the grazing of any domestic animal, and there are some hill tops in Glen Etive, such as Benstara and Bentrilichan, that have been denuded of soil so as to be useless for sheep. Except these, however, there is very little ground that can be called useless in the somewhat extensive tract of land that has been glanced at. It is proposed to take next the division of the county north of the Linnhe Loch, formerly mentioned as a division of the county.

In the tourist season it is easy to pass from the one place to the other, as the "Swift" steamer leaves Ballachulish and calls at Cor-ran, making the passage in less than half an hour. After arriving at Corran, the following tenements will soon be reached:— Stoncreggan, Trinslaig, &c, of which Mr Duncan Boyd is the tenant, at a rent of £331. The stock consists of blackfaced sheep and milch cows. Part of Inverscaddle is occupied by the proprietor, the Earl of Morton. The estimated rent is £667, and the stock kept is blackfaced sheep and milch cows. Aryhoulan and Corryveachang are possessed by Dr Simpson, at a rent of £737. The stock consists of Cheviot sheep and milch cows. There are no crops raised on this or any of the succeeding farms, except for the use of the house and to feed the few cows kept.

Kiel and Camusasaig, occupied by Mr William Cameron; rent, £210; stock, blackfaced sheep, cows (Highland). Sallachan and East Gerrach—D. M'Vean's executors are the tenants, at a rent of £356. The sheep stock consists partly of blackfaced and partly of Cheviots. There are some cows kept.

Inversanda and Torran—tenant, A. M'Vean's widow; rent, £259; stock, blackfaced sheep and Highland cows, with their followers. These four farms are on the portion of the Ardgour estate, retained by A. M'Lean, Esq., of Ardgour, when a part of the property was sold to the Earl of Morton.

On the Kingairloch estate, belonging to Charles Forbes, Esq., the following farms may be mentioned:—Glensanda, Glengal-maddle, Lochuisg, &c, possessed by Mr John M'Intyre, who was for a long time tenant of lands in Lismore. The stock kept by him consists of blackfaced sheep and cattle of all kinds. The rent of the whole is £1130.

Kilmalieu, occupied by A. H. Bill and Mrs Bill at a rent of £200. The stock consists of blackfaced sheep.
North Corry is held by the proprietor at the estimated rent of £200, including the mansion-house. Stock, blackfaced sheep.

Mr Smith, Acharanich, keeps his lands in his own hands, and has a deer forest and a sheep stock of whitefaced. There are also some Highland cattle.

The estimated rent of the estate is £2090. Mrs Paterson of Lochaline keeps the estate in her own hands, and has a stock of blackfaced sheep. The sheep, on the whole, are strong and The lands now under sheep were occupied by small tenants and crofters until Mrs Paterson's time, but they were all turned away to make room for the sheep. On the Drimnin estate (J. C Gordon's) are Drimnin Mains, possessed by Dundas Helme, rent £280, and Drimbuie, by D. M'Master, rent £220, with a stock of whitefaced sheep on each tenement.

The Glencrepisdale estate, belonging to Rev. W. & H. Newton, is occupied as follows:—Glencrepisdale, by Messrs Robertson, at a rent of £850. The stock consists of blackfaced sheep. Laudle, with a stock of blackfaced, and Liddesdale, with whitefaced sheep, are in the proprietor's hands.

Killundine also is in the hands of the proprietor, who has a stock of whitefaced sheep and a fold of cattle.

There were splendid Highland cattle on Killundine when Mr M'Lean possessed it, and Colonel Cheape has them quite as good. The lands in this portion of Morven are very good, and well adapted for sheep and cattle.

On the Sunart estate, across Loch Sunart, there are some large sheep tenements, but it maybe enough to mention the following:— Drimuantorran, possessed by W. Kilpatrick and J. Mulligan, jun. rent, £571; carries a stock of Cheviot sheep. Reisipoll, &c., by H. & C. Cameron; rent £235 ; stock, blackfaced sheep and Highland cattle. Carnach, by D. Cameron; rent, £215; stock, blackfaced sheep and Highland cattle. Achanellan and Clash, same tenant and same rent as last; stock, sheep, but no cattle. liauachan,&c., by Charles M'Arthur; rent, £200; stock, Cheviot sheep. Glenhurich, Pollock, &c, by J. Milligan, sen. and jun., rent, £1050; stock, Cheviot sheep.

There are many sheep stocks throughout the county as good as any that have yet been mentioned, but they will be taken up on going over the different districts. The subject may be concluded for the present by a few general remarks.

When a change of tenant occurs in a sheep tenement, the entry is always at Whitsunday (old style). The custom in the county is to take the sheep stock at valuation, and that is specified in the lease, when there is a written lease. The customary manner is to fix upon two valuators and a thirdsman.

When the day appointed for the delivery arrives, they carefully examine the sheep and discuss the value or price, and also settle the number of shotts out of each class. The valuator for the seller generally asks a very high price, while the one for the buyer passes the line as far on the other side. The settlement necessarily falls to the thirdsman or oversman. He often takes time to consider: but after fully making up his mind, he gives his decision in writing, and furnishes a copy to each of the parties, from which an account is made out. The classification generally is—

Class I. Milch ewes and aged tups.
Class II. Three-year-old wethers.
Class III. Two-year-old wethers and eild ewes.
Class IV. Hoggs.

The shotts of Class I. used to be added to the next class, and so on with the others. Of late it has become customary to make a price separate for the shotts, such as one-third less than their class, and this is a more convenient mode than carrying them down to another class. In a large sheep tenement the process of delivery takes a complete day, even in the month of May. Not only have the sheep to be put through the fank, but each animal is handled and marked, and the ewes all turned over to make sure that they are in milk. But however carefully the delivery is gone about, there will be some stragglers, and these are to be looked out for during the summer, and marked as they come in. Cladding of one in the score is always allowed at sheep deliveries, so that when the prices are fixed it is so much per 21 or clad-score. A specimen of an account is given in the Appendix D, which will show how the shotting and cladding are managed in practice.

In the ordinary management of sheep stock in high lying lands, the first gathering takes place in the end of May or beginning of June, when the lambs are marked and cut. The next gathering is about the 20th of June (or after a month of summer has elasped), when the eild sheep are clipped. The milk ewes are clipped about the middle of July. The lambs are separated from the sheep or speaned about the 12th of August, and after being kept a week separate they are allowed to go to the hill again, after receiving a brand mark, where that is used, and the keel mark of the farm. According to the account shown, the stock consists of all the classes reared on the farm, including wethers and ewes. In small tenements the wethers are not kept, the wether lambs being sold in autumn, when separated from the sheep. There is always demand for these, and particularly by those having large mixed stock who wish to sell the weaker of their ewe lambs, and buy in an equal number of wether lambs. These small ewe lambs are in demand for small tenements where few sheep are kept. They generally thrive well in such places, and this kind of interchange helps to increase the number of sheep reared in Argyllshire, and to account for the large number returned for the county.

Farmers in low-lying places often buy in slack ewes, or crogs in autumn, and take lambs off them, crossing the blackfaced ewes with Leicester tups, and this has been found to answer well. The lambs are ready for the market in June and July, and the ewes can be sold about Martinmas in pretty fair condition. In the Glasgow market they meet with a ready demand, and the price generally is equal to what is paid for them the previous year; a fleece and a lamb having in the interval been secured from each ewe.

The value of sheep has increased greatly during the last twenty years. Prices were low at that time, but in 1850 and 1851 the alarm raised by the introduction of foreign sheep and cattle was passing away, and the price of sheep improved. The price of wool fluctuated, but on the whole the tendency was upwards. In 1860 prices took a great start quite unexpectedly, and the result was that the rent of such lands as were out of lease was raised greatly, and lands that were formerly under black cattle were put under sheep. This did not answer well, and the former system was in most cases reverted to. A scale of the prices of sheep and wool at the Inverness wool market for the last twenty-five years is given in the Appendix B, and it applies to Argyllshire as well as to every other part of the Highlands.

The Oban sheep and wool market is held immediately after that of Inverness, and the dealers from the south who have been at the one attend the other. A large amount of business is transacted in sheep, wool, and smearing materials, and between this and the Tyndrum and Inveraray markets held the same week, everything that is to be sold is disposed of. These markets, strictly speaking, fix the prices in Argyllshire, but they have preserved no regular lists as Inverness has done. Neither wool nor sheep are exhibited at any of these markets, and all the transactions are done on trust between buyer and seller.

The three-year-old wethers sold at these markets are to be uplifted by Michaelmas or end of October. When dealers take the wethers to the Glasgow fat market they are generally taken away during August and September.

There has been a considerable change in the mode of smearing within the last twenty-five years. As far back as that date the whole of the stock began to be smeared instead of the weaker portion, as was formerly the case. Tar and butter were the materials used, and latterly bone grease, and other substitutes for butter were pretty common. Within the last ten or twelve years the sheep farmers of Argyllshire have gradually adopted the plan of dipping instead of smearing, and as they seem to be proceeding cautiously, the matter may be safely left in their hands as to the comparative merits of the two processes.

One thing likely to turn the scale in favour of dipping, even per force, is that there is much difficulty in getting sufficient hands for smearing. The diseases of sheep have been treated of from time to time in different papers or essays, for which premiums were given, and need not be entered upon here.

Improvements in fencing and sheltering, sheep-draining, &c, are also treated of in able papers published lately, and it is not necessary to mention here that Argyllshire has still need of these improvements. Very little has been done in sheep-draining. and nothing at all in fencing and sheltering. The proposal of fences for mountain ranges, such as those generally occupied by blackfaced sheep, may seem extravagant; still there are many places where marches are so difficult to keep, that fences are absolutely necessary for the useful occupancy of the land, and, cheaply raised, would soon repay themselves.

The hand feeding of sheep, so much practised in the south, deserves to be considered for the north and west. The severe injury to sheep by continuous snow-storms might be avoided in a great measure by artificial feeding. Turnips can be raised in Argyllshire almost to any extent, the soil and climate being well adapted for them, and this ought to be kept in view.

Black Cattle

Black cattle have long been the staple produce of the county, and Argyllshire cattle, and West Highland cattle are terms used indiscriminately to indicate the West Highland breed. Some preliminary remarks may be offered here, although it will be more convenient to deal with existing stocks when going over the districts in detail.

The number of cattle in the county in 1875 was 62,397, including Ayrshire cattle.

This is a decrease on the numbers of the previous years, which was owing to the excessively wet season of 1874, when cattle had to be disposed of for want of provender. The number of sheep was also reduced that season, through deaths and want of lambs. Without going far back, a time will be found when special attention was paid to cattle in Argyllshire. This was toward the end of last century, when the tide of improvement in agricultural matters had set in over the country generally.

Landed proprietors in the county turned their attention to the rearing of cattle, and among the foremost of them was the Duke of Argyll, John, the grandfather of the present Duke. He was a keen agriculturist and improver of cattle. He had in his own possession all the parks at Inveraray, with the woods and the greater part of Glenshira; and these were all put under cattle. He did not grudge expense in procuring the best animals that could be got, or in giving them good treatment. He secured the assistance of David Campbell, Esq., of Combie, a proprietor in his immediate neighbourhood; and he was considered the most; skilful manager of cattle in the county at the time. The Duke consulted him in everything connected with the stock, and the result was that between them the stock improved rapidly, so that before the end of last century it was of the first quality, and could not easily be surpassed at the present day.

This excellent fold was continued until his Grace's death, which happened in 1806, and after that it was sold by public roup, and dispersed over the county. High prices were realised at the sale, £50 being given for some of the cows.

It should be mentioned, to this nobleman's credit, that he was very liberal in giving some of his cattle not to his tenants only, but to neighbouring proprietors, thus effectually advancing the riches of the county.

Mr Campbell of Combie was appointed factor to the Countess of Sutherland, who was also getting up a stock of Highland cattle. Mr Campbell still paid visits to Inveraray, and coutinued some superintendence of the stock there. He was the means of getting an exchange of bulls and heifers from Argyllshire to Dunrobin, and that exchange turned out remarkably well, both stocks having been much improved by it.

There was an excellent stock of sheep and cattle kept at Sonachan, Lochaweside, which is mentioned in the old statistical account of the parish written in 1793. The owner was Donald Campbell, Esq., of Sonachan, and the stock was afterwards kept on by his two sons, Robert Campbell, Esq., of Sonachan, and Duncan Campbell, Esq., of Rockhill.

Mr Campbell's stock was highly valued, and such a price as £100 was given for one of his bulls. The stock at Rockhill was kept up by Mr D. Campbell until his death, now thirty years ago, and it maintained its character to the last. Alexander M'Dougall, Esq., of Dunollie, commenced to rear a fold about the end of last century. It was kept up by his two sons, Patrick M'Dougall, Esq., of M'Dougall, and Captain Duncan M'Dougall of Ardintrive, and both stocks were among the best in the country. The fold at Dunollie consisted of forty tidy cows, and forty calves were always reared each season. The space under them was Dunollie and Dunolliebeg, and Gylen Park, in Kerrera, for heifers. The calves were kept separate from the cows, except twice a day, morning and evening, at the fold. The calves got all the milk of the cows as a rule. The stirks were wintered in the house, and fed on meadow hay. In the month of May they were sent to Gylen Park, and the first year, when they were six quarters old, they were taken back to Dunollie, and wintered among the woods. The queys were, in the month of May, sent back to Gylen, and allowed to shift for themselves till they were three years old, when the best of them were taken to Dunollie to supply the place of old cows which were sold off. The heifers at Gylen got no hand-feeding, and still they were well wintered.

The fold at Ardintrive was managed in the same manner as that at Dunollie, except that the heifers were sent to Glen Etive, instead of Kerrera; and they were found to thrive well in that wild glen, where they had plenty of space and freedom, red deer being their next neighbours.

The Dunollie cattle had a peculiar mark, viz., a dewlap hanging from the neck, being cut from the chin to the chest; and the Ardintrive cattle had the same mark, but reversed, the slip being cut in the opposite direction, and both of them were known at markets by these marks.

The stock at Ardintrive was disposed of by public sale, and people gathered from all parts of the country, some even from England, and large prices were given for the best of the stock.

Walter Campbell, Esq., of Shawfield, had a splendid stock in Islay. His connection with the Argyll family gave him facilities in getting up the stock, and he maintained it well. Another good stock in Islay belonged to Dugald Campbell of Ballinabey. The Colonsay stock was got up a little later than these, and was chiefly drawn from the Dunollie stock. The proprietors of these were uncle and nephew, and the nephew at Colonsay brought on his stock so rapidly that the uncle at Dunollie grumbled a little that the youth whom he had taught and encouraged in the rearing of cattle was likely to eclipse himself.

Mr Campbell, New Inverawe, commenced rearing a stock about 30 years ago, which he brought on very rapidly. The nucleus of it was a pair of heifers of a light dun colour, out of the Clanamackrie stock, which he bought at a high price, and from which he reared calves off the best bulls that he could procure, and the stock improved rapidly. The Clanamackrie fold was put together about the beginning of the century by Mr John M'Intyre, who dealt in cattle, and reared a stock with good success. He rented Glenoe as well as Clanamackrie, and the cows and calves were summered in Glenoe, but wintered at Clanamackrie, where there was arable land, as well as meadow hay.

Duntanachan is also in the same glen (Glenlonen), and has had a stock of very superior cattle for a long time. The stock was good when the tenant, Mr Clerk, went to the glen from Kilmaronag, now upwards of 60 years ago, and the stock has been kept up ever since by father and son.

The cattle do not receive any feeding beyond meadow hay and the pasture that the farm affords, and still they thrive so well that they have often competed at cattle shows successfully.

The farm of Clachadow, also in the same glen, was possessed by Mr Duncan M'Lachlan for some time, and his stock was about equal to that on the two farms beside him before he left the glen. He was very enterprising in securing good bulls; and being an excellent judge of cattle, he managed to have a good stock wherever he went. A black bull, got from D. M'Donald, Monochyle, and taken to Clachadow, turned out remarkably -well; and being very well horned, his progeny could be traced for several generations.

The late Marquis of Breadalbane had a herd at Ardmaddy, Argyllshire, which was commenced about the year 1839. It was chiefly made up from the stock in Perthshire, which was first commenced at Achamore about the year 1834, and followed up at Taymouth, where it was brought to a high state of excellence. The stock at Ardmaddy was nearly equal to it, but that at Taymouth received fully more justice, the best of the bulls being always shifted to Taymouth, The cows at Ardmaddy did not receive much extra feeding in the house, and all the cattle there received meadow hay as their chief provender, and little or no crop was raised.

The calves received all the milk of the cows, and were kept separate from them. Bulls were frequently changed, and seldom kept more than two seasons; and the cows were disposed of when eight years of age. The pasture and good management were found sufficient for keeping the stock in the superior state attained by it without any forcing being attempted. A lot of stots were kept till four years old, and then sold at Dumbarton, where they always commanded the highest prices going. After the Marquis' death, the fold at Ardmaddy, as well as that at Taymouth, was sold, and the cattle dispersed in all directions.

The Poltalloch herd of West Highland cattle was known as far back as the early part of the present century, and it may now be said to be second to none in Scotland. For many years the bulls have been from time to time selected from the best stocks in the country; and when the celebrated Breadalbane stock was broken up, many of the best animals went to Poltalloch. The surplus stock is sold by public auction annually, in the month of September, and the sale is attended by purchasers from England, Ireland, and Scotland. There is also a stock of very superior blackfaced sheep at Poltalloch, no expense being spared in the selection of the tups, the best of which are bought at the Lothian ram sales in Edinburgh.

Feeding and Treatment.

Those who have been successful in rearing good cattle do not aim in general at high feeding. Young cattle, when kept in moderate condition, are found to be healthy and hardy, and to thrive well. In summer it is comparatively easy to keep stock in the condition required by allowing them plenty of good pasture, regulating the number kept, so as not to let any place be overstocked—good herding being always attended to. The calves, as a rule, get all the milk of the cows, and are kept separate, except twice a day, at the fold.

On some farms the calves are allowed to go with the cows night and day, and the practice is becoming pretty general of allowing them to so together after the month of June. The calves are taken from the cows entirely about the end of October, and should be housed as soon as may be, before they fall off in condition.

They are then called stirks, and wintering the stirks well is an important part of cattle farming. In glens and high lands, where there is but little arable land, the stirks get the finest of the meadow hay and a small mixture of unthrashed corn among the hay, which keeps them in a thriving condition. It is not desirable to give them a large quantity of turnips or potatoes, even when these can be spared.

Probably cheap grain purchased for young cattle, as was suggested for sheep, can be used to advantage. Casting a small quantity of roots in is very good.

In the month of April (the particular time depending on the •weather) the stirks are turned out to their summer pasture, and the division of the farm allotted to young cattle. That is always separate from the division occupied by the milk cows.

During the summer the young cattle shift for themselves, without much herding. The second winter they are left out, and the amount of hand feeding depends much upon the locality. Where there is good shelter and moderately good pasture, it is enough to give them meadow hay once a day, beginning about Christmas. When there is snow on the ground, they should be fed twice a day. In lands where there is arable land, ryegrass, hay, and corn will supply the place of meadow hay; and where straw is used for the outlying cattle, some unthrashed corn should, to a limited extent, be given along with it, and turnips may in such cases be freely used. Cattle, in all circumstances, should have careful attention, not only when fed in the house, but also at pasture, so as to make sure of their getting the full use of their pasture in quiet, without being disturbed more than necessary; and also that they are sent to sheltered places in stormy weather.

Details of that kind are matters of practice that cannot all be given on paper.

On some islands young cattle often thrive well, summer and winter, without any feeding, with only the shelter of rocks or caves chosen by themselves. Even in such places they ought to be visited often, to see that there is nothing wrong, and to prevent their getting wild.

Crops and Culture.

Crops will be noticed in going over the different districts, but a short summary may be given here by way of preface. According to the Board of Trade Returns, the acreage under crops of corn, potatoes, and turnips for the last ten years was as follows:-

Other crops, such as cabbages, carrots, and vetches, occupy only an area of 439 acres. There is very little barley or bere grown, and next to nothing of wheat, so that almost the whole space is under oats. For green crop, potatoes and turnips are the only kinds worth mentioning.

The rotation of cropping has been the five course shift, viz., first, oats after lea; second, potatoes and turnips; third, oats with grass seeds; fourth, hay; and fifth, pasture. Instead of one year of pasture, it is now turning common to leave the ground in that state for two or three years, which changes the course into a six or seven years' shift. The five years' shift, which was generally insisted upon by proprietors and factors, served a good purpose in causing more attention to be paid to culture and cropping than was formerly the case. Different kinds of manure are now better known; and when these are judiciously applied, rotation of cropping is of less consequence. It is evidently an advantage-in such a county as Argyll to have the ground more than one year in pasture.

Markets and Cattle Shows.

The leading cattle markets in the country are held at Kilmichael, Oban, and Lochgilphead twice a year. The Kilmichael market used to be the most important, but Oban market is now about equal to it, and Lochgilphead maintains its ground without much change. There are several small markets through the county, such as at Shian, Duror, Mull, Strontian, Salen. Corran, Islay, &c. A large proportion of the cattle sent from Argyllshire is disposed of at markets in the south. At Dumbarton the droves of heavy oxen and heifers from Argyllshire have always been conspicuous, and always much admired.

In the end of the year, old cows from Argyllshire are disposed of in large numbers; and at Falkirk Tryst of September and October droves of heifers from this county make up a large proportion of the stock shown, and often formed the most attractive feature in the market. Dealers from England, and all who are in search of superior West Highland cattle, attend the Falkirk Tryst, where they are sure of finding the kind of stock they require. Sheep are never shown at local markets in Argyllshire, but are always sent to the markets in the south. Besides Falkirk and Doune markets, large numbers of sheep and lambs are sent to the Glasgow market, and it may be said that there is not a week, from June to December, in which sheep from Argyllshire are not sold in the Glasgow bughts. There were some other markets, such as at Kilmore, Kilchrenan, &c., but they are now absorbed into the larger markets. The sheep and wool market held at Oban in July is the most important now, there being an immense deal of business transacted at it. Inveraray wool market is of long standing, and is still continued much as it used to be. Tyndrum market, although beyond the bounds of the county, used to be the leading wool market for Argyllshire, but Oban market has nearly absorbed it now. It is the custom at Inverness, and also at Tyndrum, to spend much time in mere negotiation, so that at the latter it was rare to hear a price named by a purchaser till after dinner. At Oban market the practice is quite different, business being commenced early in the day, and mostly finished before dinner-time at four o'clock. There is a saving of time in this practice, which will surely be followed in other places.

The Horse Markets.—The Mull market and Ford market are of old standing, but the attendance at them is not on the increase.

Kilmartin market, held twice a year, and Oban market, corresponding with it in time, are now the most important in the county.

A good many horses are shown at Lochgilphead and Tarbert, and there are transactions in buying and selling horses in many places that need not be detailed.

Hiring Markets.—Dalmally market, held once a year, at which shepherds were hired, is of very old standing. It was called "Feill Eandrish," "Feill Commain," being one of the few specimens of the old custom of dedicating fairs to saints, which was very common at one time. Shian market, held twice a year, is still continued, but is in a good measure absorbed into the Oban hiring market, also held twice a year. Oban is a favourite place for holding markets, owing, no doubt, to its central position and easy mode of access by steamers and coaches, and also to its ample accommodation for man and beast. The shops, which are increased now, are also an attraction.

Agricultural Societies have their shows each year, and there are several of them in the county. The one that has been longest in existence is the Lorn Agricultural Society, commenced in 1839. The list of premiums given at its cattle shows is large, and embraces sheep, black cattle, and horses, and a few premiums for Ayrshire cattle are now given. The premiums for Highland cattle are given for bulls, heifers (two and three year old), and cows and calves. There are ploughing matches held every spring-in two districts, and the medal of the Highland and Agricultural Society is obtained for them alternately, the sum of £3 being paid in premiums from the funds of the Lorn Society.

Mr Campbell of Loch Nell is president of the Society, and a good supporter always. Colonel M'Dougall, Dunolly, and Mr M'Donald of Dunach are the vice-presidents, and they give their countenance by subscribing to the funds and by attending meetings.

The Farmers' Association of Kilmartin and Poltalloch has been established for many years, and is well supported. Mr Malcolm of Poltalloch contributes liberally to its funds, and handsome prizes are given, which encourages agriculture in that district.

There is an important association at Campbeltown, at which premiums are given for the produce of that district; and there is also one at Dunoon, which is extensive in its scope, and doing much good.

There also has been one in Mull for the last few years, with excellent prospects before it, and, no doubt, destined to be very useful. The Islay, Jura, and Colonsay Agricultural Society has been very successful in encouraging the rearing of good Highland cattle. There is also a small society in Lismore, chiefly devoted to crops and culture. Besides these local societies, the district grants of the Highland and Agricultural Society are given liberally in Argyllshire to every society that applies for them, and a neat silver medal at the disposal of each association which complies with the simple and useful rules of the Society.

In awarding prizes to West Highland cattle, it has often been thought desirable to fix on some points according to which an animal should be judged. The Lorn Agricultural Society have tried the following:—No. I., carriage, 25 points; No. II., back and ribs, 20 points; No. III., head and horns, 15 points; No. IV., hind quarters, 15 points; No. V., hair, 10 points; No. VI., neck, 5 points; No. VII, legs, 5 points; No. VIII, size, 5 points; so that a good animal must have 100 points to be classed and compared in some such way as the above.

It was found, on going over the separate districts, that horses were to be found on every possession of any size, but in small numbers in any one place, and that the same might be said of Ayrshire cows, therefore a few general remarks on both of these, and also on pigs, may be offered here.

Horses.

There is nothing special to be said about the horses of Argyllshire, they being crossed by so many other kinds, particularly the Clydesdale, as to have lost all distinctive character. A few ponies may still be picked up in Mull and Tyree, from 12 to 14 hands high, singularly active and hardy.

It is said that when the "Florida" (one of the ships of the Spanish Armada) was sunk in the Bay of Tobermory in 1588, a number of Spanish horses, having Moorish or Arab blood in them, swam to shore, and that the progeny is still to be seen there. Some countenance was given to the story by the appearance of Home of the ponies, which are of slender limbs, small head, sharp ear, and wonderful pluck and endurance. They are last disappearing, however, weight being now held all important in a horse.

There was another race of horses well worth preserving, which is allowed to run out.

The Lorn Furnace Company had a large number of the common Highland mares, to which they gave tall, large-boned Lancashire hunter stallions. The produce was roadsters of uncommon action, strength, and endurance.

The high price of horses for the last few years ought to cause farmers in Argyllshire to attend to their rearing. Some of the agricultural societies (Inveraray and Lorn) have given premiums to induce the owners of superior Clydesdale horses to travel the county, and it is to be hoped this will have a good effect. The number of horses in the county, according to the Board of Trade's Return, is as follows, viz.:—In 1869 there were 6775; in 1870, 6342; in 1873, 6598; in 1874, 6722; and in 1875, 6867; in 1876, 7142; and in 1877, 7192.

Ayrshire Cattle.

Considerable numbers of these are reared in Islay, Kintyre, and the southern parts of the county, and also in the neighbourhood of the towns and villages, where milk is in demand. Some of the local societies have, within the last few years, offered premiums for Ayrshire cattle, which shows that they are held in some estimation. The kind of cattle and their treatment are so much the same in Argyllshire as in other places that it is not necessary to dwell on the subject.

Pigs.

The number of pigs in the county, as per Government returns, was in 1876, 4934; in 1877, 5116; in 1870 there were 5080; and in 1871, 6266.

When the potato crop began to fail, it was supposed that the rearing of pigs would be discontinued entirely; but the potato crop has been standing pretty well for some years back, and so the rearing of pigs is to some extent continued, but varying according to the state of crops and seasons.

There is always demand for them in the Glasgow market, and steamers convey them to the Broomielaw. In the county of Inverness the number of pigs is fewer than in Argyllshire, whereas in Perthshire the number is greater than in both these counties put together. The greater quantity of crop raised in Perthshire, and the nearness to the markets of the south, may account for this.

Cowal.

It is now proposed to go over the different divisions of the county, beginning with Cowal. The length of it, in a straight line, from the head of Loch Fyne to Ardlamont, is 33 miles, with an average breadth of about 12 miles. A careful look at a map of the county will give a better idea of the shape and size of the district than could be given by any description. There are six parishes in Cowal, three of them united, and three of them single. The united parishes are large in extent, whilst the single ones, viz., Inverchaolain, Kilmodan, and Kilfillan, are small.

Cowal, being nearly surrounded by the sea, may be inspected from various points. The old route by Lochgoilhead to In-verary has been the means of making that part of the district well known to tourists and others. For a long time there have been daily steamers from the Clyde to the head of Loch Goil, and a stage coach from Lochgoilhead to St Cathrines on Loch Fyne, and a little steamer across to Inverary. The entrance to Loch Goil is picturesque and grand, and always admired by strangers; but the agriculturist will not see much to satisfy him. On the Argyllshire side of Loch Long, and on both sides of Loch Goil, the ground is very rocky and rough, to the verge of the sea, and is not of much use for grazing, even for sheep. On the left hand of the loch will be seen the old Castle of Carrick, a royal castle, of which the Dukes of Argyll have been keepers, and from which one of their titles is derived. At the end of the. loch the ground is level and the soil pretty good. On the left hand side Drimsyne will be seen, with its elegant mansion and policies. On the opposite side of the loch there is a group of villas, with gardens neatly laid out. The ground was at one time very rough, with large boulder stones, and required levelling and clearing before buildings were commenced; but the place looks neat and well finished now.

The old village, or clachan, of Lochgoilhead, with its church, smithy, and groups of houses, is a little back from the end of the loch, and the land surrounding it has for a long time been under cultivation. After driving a couple of miles up the glen, the large farm of Pole will be entered upon, and a flat of meadow land along the river will be seen, and very often good Highland cattle grazing upon it. The land is still very much in a state of nature; but a crop of good meadow hay, with spring-grazing in the wet ground, is perhaps as profitable a crop as could be raised in that particular locality. There are good slated houses on the farm, and the fences are very good. There is a considerable portion of the land under copsewood, chiefly oak, and there is excellent shelter for outlying cattle.

After leaving Pole, the glen branches into two, and the left hand branch, followed by the coach, becomes very narrow, and, towards the top is more of a mountain pass than a glen. The grazing on both sides of the glen is suitable enough for sheep, which may be seen there, and thriving well.

After reaching the top or watershed, and descending towards Loch Fyne, the farm of Ardnow comes into view, a large tenement,, with good average soil. Prom Ardnow to St Cathrines the road runs along the shore, and the soil, although light, produces fair crops of oats and excellent potatoes.

Besides the farm of Ardnow, there are other large and excellent tenements on the Ardkinglass estate, through which the road above mentioned passes; but those have been classed as hill farms, and are mentioned elsewhere. In thinking of the route by Lochgoilhead, oldish people will fondly remember Captain Grahame and the St Catherine, and old Duncan Campbell and his coach.

Another route across Cowal is from Kilmun to Strachur, by the valley of the Eachaig and Loch Eck. This line is not so much frequented as that by Lochgoilhead, though it was often proposed to run a stage coach and steamer that route, and for a short time tried. The entrance at Kilmun is by the Holy Loch, which is now covered on both sides with buildings of various kinds and villa ground.

At the head of the loch there is a grand stretch of land, which was evidently under the sea at one time; but it has been drained and enclosed, and contains now large parks, under crop or in pasture. These are on the Hafton estate, and will be mentioned afterwards. On the side of the loch and of the river, Benmore estate commences, and extends from the shore far back into the hills. After leaving the end of the loch and entering the valley of the Eachaig, the mansion-house of Benmore will be seen, with its beautiful surroundings. Taking the locality into account, with the steep hills on either side, glens, and comes among the hills plantations, clear stream or river in the middle of the valley the scene is altogether magnificent.

The proprietor, James Duncan, Esq., of Benmore, keeps the home farm in his own hands, and is evidently making it a model farm. Steam-engines for field purposes, with their trucks and accompaniments, will be seen at work, and office-houses, horses, and farming implements are as complete as possible.

Driving along the road, the first field of the home farm will be seen laid out as nursery ground for forest trees, and is as well kept and managed as any nurseryman's grounds near the large cities. The trees here reared are intended for planting the hillsides, a process that is going on vigorously.

The plantation near the mansion-house serves to indicate the kind of trees best adapted to the soil and most likely to thrive. In this plantation may be seen beautiful larches, 60 and 70 feet high, and perfectly straight. Other kinds of trees also thrive well. All the plantations are in a flourishing condition.

The route by Loch Eck is very well described in the last statistical account prepared by the late Dr Mackay. He says of the valley of the Eachaig that it commences at the inland extremity of the Holy Loch, where it is nearly two miles in breadth. It stretches till it reaches Loch Eck, a distance of about four miles, and narrows as it approaches that lake. It runs along Loch Eck for seven miles or upwards, and thence strikes into Loch Fyne, at Strachur Park. Its course, from the inland extremity of the Holy Loch, being pretty uniformly in a north-western direction. Thus viewed, the valley of the Eachaig, with its continuation along Loch Eck and Strachur, forms a leading and very interesting feature in the topography of the district of Cowal. Its summit level, shown by Loch Eck, is not more than eighteen feet above the level of the sea, so that the valley must have been an arm of the sea at one time, making the portions of Cowal to the south of it an island. At the entrance to Loch Eck the scenery is very grand. The loch is seven miles long, and well wooded on both sides, with fair grazing for cattle, and excellent shelter.

Leaving Loch Eck, Strachur plains are soon reached, where there is a large space of good level ground. Strachur Strath, about 100 acres in extent, consists of good alluvial soil, particularly along the banks of the river Cur. Any kind of crop might be raised in such soil. There is good meadow ground for hay, but the river often overflows its banks in summer and autumn, doing much harm to the crops of hay and corn. Like many other rivers fed by mountain streams, it is very difficult to provide any remedy against the overflowing of its banks, or the changing of its course occasionally. Extensive improvements were executed at Strachur by the late General Campbell near the end of last century, and Strachur Park was for a long time a model. In the old statistical account of the parish there are complaints of the scarcity of labourers and the high wages asked by them, and one of the reasons assigned for this was the number of hands employed by General Campbell at Strachur Park.

At the time General Campbell was carrying on his improvements, M'Lachlan of M'Lachlan built a new mansion-house, and otherwise improved his policies. He also encouraged improvements by his tenants. The effect of this was, that the portion of the shore of Loch Fyne from Strachur to Stralachlan had a cultivated and pleasing appearance at a comparatively early date. Further down the loch is Otter Ferry, from which there is another line of road across Cowal to the head of the Holy Loch.

In former times large numbers of sheep and cattle were ferried across Loch Fyne at Otter Ferry, and driven along the road referred to through Glenlean, some to the ferry at Dunoon, and some to that at Ardentinny, according to their destination for different markets.

This road passes through a Hilly district which is by no means barren; on the contrary, excellent sheep grazing is to be seen on all sides; black cattle also will thrive on these uplands if attended to. On the left hand side, and in the parish of Kilmodan, Glendaruel is passed, and on the right is the head of Loch Riddan. Further on, and after entering Glenlean, the head of Loch Striven will be seen, but the land there is more picturesque than suitable for the agriculturist.

In descending from the glen, and coming in sight of Kilmun, the powder mills will be passed, and to the right of these, Garrachorran House, prettily situated at the base of the corrie from which the name is derived, will be observed. The proprietor, John Macdonald, resides there, and pays much attention to his stock of blackfaced sheep, for which the lands are well adapted. Below the powder mills the road crosses the little Eachaig, where the traveller finds himself in the charming valley of that name. With small deviations from the routes already pointed out, many places of interest may be reached. For instance, on the voyage to Lochgoilhead, opposite Roseneath, the beautiful mansion and policy grounds of Glenfinart present themselves. This place never fails to attract the attention of the traveller, and much of its beauty may be seen without leaving the steamer. It is worth landing, however, and this can convenient!}' be done at the old ferry of Ardentinny. It will then be seen that the level ground along the shore, which is planted and ornamented, is the mouth of a glen extending three miles inland Glenfinart was at one time covered with natural wood and is now ornamented with plantations. The ground has been cultivated and improved in a manner showing taste and judgment. The present proprietor, General Sir John Douglas, keeps the lands, woods, and policies in excellent order, and the place is altogether very attractive.

The next route, viz., that from Kilmun to Strachur, has many-attractions to induce the traveller to deviate from the line of road. On entering the valley of the Eachaig, Benmore House and its beautiful policies, situated in a very romantic spot, will attract the attention. After passing the parks above mentioned, a very elegant entrance gate and a beautiful avenue beyond it, with flourishing specimens of the Wellingtonia gigantea on either side of the drive, will be observed. These trees are in a very thriving state, and will soon form a magnificent avenue. The mansion-house and offices are handsome and commodious, but the range of greenhouses and the extent of ground covered with glass is wonderful. Any attempt at describing the plants and flowers, stove plants, greenhouse plants, bedding out plants, border flowers, and annuals of every kind and description, would be out of place in a report like this. Among the many classes of plants attended to at Benmore, ferns are not forgotten. This is as it ought to be, for ferns have not hitherto received the attention which they deserve, and there is no place where they will thrive better than in Argyllshire. Leaving Benmore, and about two miles up the glen, a deviation to the left will lead into Glenmassen. This glen is well worthy of a visit, both on account of its romantic appearance and its importance to the agriculturist. With fair soil and excellent shelter it is very well adapted for rearing sheep and cattle. When thickly wooded on both sides, as this glen appears to have been, Glenmassen must have formed a singularly romantic and secure Highland fastness. Glenmassen and Glendaruel are both mentioned in a very ancient poem, ascribed to Darthula as her lament on leaving Scotland. A small deviation from the road through Glenlean will lead into Glendaruel, which is well worthy of a visit. Its beautiful strath and sloping hillsides are very attractive, and the glen has long been famed for its sheep and cattle. The parish church will be seen in the middle of the valley at the clachan of Glendaruel.

A large extent of the coast will be passed by those going by steamer from the Clyde to Ardrishaig through the Kyles of Bute.

Before entering the Kyles, Toward Castle, half seen, half hid, among trees, with the extensive plantations around it, never fails to interest the traveller. Much was done by Kirkman Findlay, who is said to have planted 5,000,000 of trees. His successors also attended to improvements, and everything is kept in good order on this beautiful estate.

The scenery in that winding strait is much admired, but the land on the Cowal side is not very good. The level, well-cultivated ground on the Bute side contrasts well with the rugged and wild scenery on the opposite side, and the scene is exceedingly picturesque. The rugged and rocky portion of the picture furnished by Argyllshire is more calculated to please the tourist than the agriculturist, but still there are well-cultivated spots, such as that at Tigh-na-bruiach and Caol-an-trive, where pretty villas with neatly laid out grounds are to be seen. Between the Kyles of Bute and the entrance to Loch Fyne the land is pretty level, but thin and poor, and without any shelter. Southhall, with its elegant mansion and tastefully laid out grounds and plantations, always attracts the not