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Transactions of the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland
On the Agriculture of the
Counties of Forfar and Kincardine |
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By James Macdonald, Editor of "The Irish Farmers'
Gazette."
[Premium— Thirty Sovereigns. ]
Introductory.
The counties of Forfar and Kincardine are bound in by
the counties of Perth and Aberdeen and by the Firth of Tay and German
Ocean. The former, by far the larger of the two, is separated from
Fifeshire on the south by the Firth of Tay; washed on the south-east by
the German Ocean; bounded on the north-east by the North Esk; and on the
north and northwest by the parishes of Aboyne, Birse, Glenmuick, and
Crathie in Aberdeenshire, and by the Grampian Watershed; while
Perthshire lies on the west. The most southern point, near Dundee, is in
56° 27', and the most northern, near Mount Keen, in 56° 59' N. lat.; the
most easterly point, near Montrose, being in 2° 27', and the most
westerly, at Blacklunans, in 3° 24' W. long. The distance from north to
south is about 38 miles, and from east to west 27 miles. The coast-line
is about 45 miles long. Forfarshire stands eleventh among Scottish
counties as to extent. There are different estimates of the exact
acreage. In the Ordnance Survey it is stated at 569,850. Of these, 6486
are taken up by foreshores and 3178 by water. The return of owners of
lands and heritages, compiled in 1872-73, gives the "acreage of
property" at 553,850 acres.
Kincardineshire is bounded on the south and west by
the North Esk and Forfarshire, and on the north by the Dee and
Aberdeenshire, and washed on the east for about 35 miles by the German
Ocean. It is triangular in form, extending 32 miles from south-west to
north-east, and 24 miles where broadest from south to north. Ranking
twenty-first among Scotch counties, its area is stated in the Ordnance
Survey to be 248,195 acres. The foreshores extend to 1385 and the
surface covered by water to 1463 acres. In the return of owners of lands
and heritages, the area is stated at 244,585 acres.
According to the return of owners of lands and
heritages there are in Forfarshire in all 4898 owners of land, whose,
property is stated at 553,852 acres, and estimated at £795,581, 7s. of
gross annual value. Of these, 971 possess one acre and upwards each, and
their total acreage is given at 552,708 acres, or an average of about
569 acres each. The 3927 owners of land under one acre in extent have
only 1144 acres amongst them, being less than one-third of an acre each.
In Kincardine, there are 1384 owners of land having amongst them
244,585 acres, and a gross annual rental of £253,392, 12s. The average
sizes of the properties is under 179 acres. There are 195 owners of one
acre and upwards, the total extent of their estates being 244,396 acres,
and their gross annual value £236,021, 17s. These 195 landed proprietors
have an average of over 1253 acres each. Among the 1189 owners of lands
under one acre in extent, there are only 180 acres, or less than
one-sixth of an acre to each.The assessor's roll for
Forfarshire for 1880-81 states the valuation of the county at £649,372,
17s. In 1879-80, the valuation for Kincardine was £259,102, inclusive of
£28,464 for railways, &c.
Forfarshire is divided into 55 parishes, but of these
six are only partly within it. Edzell extends into Kincardineshire,
while pretty large portions of Alyth and Coupar-Angus, and smaller
portions of Liff, Kettins, and Airlie, lie in the county of Perth. In
Kincardineshire, including Edzell, there are 21 parishes. Each county
sends a representative to Parliament, while Dundee has two members, and
Montrose with Arbroath, Forfar, Brechin and Bervie, one. Sheriff Courts
are held at Dundee and Forfar. The sheriffdom of Kincardineshire is
joined with that of Aberdeen, weekly courts being held in Stonehaven.
In Forfarshire there are five royal burghs—Dundee,
Arbroath, Montrose, Brechin and Forfar. Dundee, "The Hill or Fort
of the Tay" was a place of considerable importance as early as the
twelfth century. Situated on the left bank of the estuary of the Tay,
about 10 miles from where that river falls into the sea, it has a
population of about 119,000, including 10,812 in Lochee, which lies
within the boundary of the town. It thus in population ranks third in
Scotland, and next to Glasgow in trade and manufactures. It is the chief
seat in Scotland of the manufacture of coarse linen fabrics and of jute.
The more modern parts of the town are well laid off, and it can boast of
some fine public buildings, the Steeple, Town House, Albert Institute,
the Free Library, &c. It is well provided with public parks. The chief
one, the Baxter Park, laid off by Sir Joseph Paxton, and costing in all
£50,000, was presented to the town by Sir David Baxter and his two
unmarried sisters. The town is historically interesting in many ways.
James VI. visited it in 1617; Charles II.
in 1651; and Her Majesty the Queen and Prince
Consort landed and re-embarked at it in 1844, on their journey to and
from Blair-Athole. To commemorate this last event, the Royal Victoria
Arch was raised. Dundee has often been the scene of burning and pillage,
and down to the middle of the sixteenth century it had walls and gates.
Among the eminent men
connected with the town are Sir William
Wallace, who, as well as his companion in arms Scrymgeour, is said to
have attended school there, and who defended its walls in 1303 against
Edward I.,—and Hector Bœthius,
the first Principal of King's College, Aberdeen.
Arbroath or Aberbrothock is a very old seaport town
and royal burgh. It is situated at the mouth of the Brothock, and has a
population of 20,169. It possesses a good harbour, and a large trade is
carried on in farm produce, and in pavement obtained from 8 or 10 miles
inland. There are also extensive tanneries, roperies, breweries, and a
shipbuilding yard. The chief object of interest is the Abbey of
Arbroath, once one of the richest in Scotland. It was founded by William
the Lion, and dedicated to the memory of Thomas a Becket. In 1320 Robert
Bruce and his nobles here met, and despatched a nuncio declaring the
independence of Scotland. It shared the fate of most of the other
abbeys, having been destroyed by the Re-formers in 1560. The last of its
abbots was Cardinal Beaton. Twelve miles south-east of Arbroath lies the
Bell Rock lighthouse, the tradition concerning which is preserved in
Southey's well-known ballad.
Montrose, with a population of over 14,000, is a very
ancient royal burgh and seaport, with one of the best natural harbours
on the east coast. Standing on a level peninsula, it has on one side the
sea, on the other the river and basin. Here was established, in 1534,
the first school for the study of Greek in Scotland. Among the first of
its pupils was the learned Andrew Melville; while David Lindsay, Bishop
of Brechin and Edinburgh, who raised the ire of Jenny Geddes, was one of
its teachers. In 1848 the Queen and Prince Consort visited Montrose on
their way from Balmoral to London. A fine suspension bridge, erected in
1829, connects the island of Rossie with the main body of the town. In
the neighbourhood there is a beautifully situated lunatic asylum capable
of accommodating 450 patients.
On the South Esk, 8 miles north-west of Montrose,
lies Brechin, a town of nearly 8000 inhabitants, and a royal burgh of
very ancient date. Like most other Forfarshire towns its staple
manufacture is linen, but paper mills, tobacco factories, distilling,
brewing, and freestone quarrying, give work to a good many of the
inhabitants. The cattle and horse markets of Trinity Muir are held here.
Close to the city, on the opposite side of a ravine, stands Brechin
Castle, a seat of the Earl of Dalhousie. St Ninian's Cathedral, built in
the thirteenth, fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, is now used as a
parish church. A round tower, rising to a height of about 100 feet,
stands near the church. The only other one of these ancient and
mysterious towers in Scotland is at Abernethy. Among the
more famous of the natives of Brechin are Gillies the Grecian historian,
and Thomas Guthrie, D.D.
Forfar, the county town, has been a royal burgh since
the time of David I. It is situated in the fertile valley of Strath-more,
not far from the centre of the county, and has a population of 11,031.
Duncan Canmore had a castle here, in which he held his first parliament,
but no part of it can now be seen. It is said to have been destroyed by
King Robert Bruce in 1307. Linen and jute are the staple manufactures.
The County Buildings, and the Reid Hall, presented to the town by Mr
Peter Reid of "Forfar Rock" fame, are elegant and substantial edifices.
Of smaller towns and villages there is a large
number. The more important of these are Broughty Ferry, Coupar-Angus,
and Kirriemuir. Broughty Ferry, or Burgh Tay Ferry, lies on the coast, 4
miles east of Dundee, and includes West Ferry in the parish of Dundee.
It is a favourite bathing resort, and has a population of 5817. About a
hundred years ago Broughty Ferry consisted of only a few fishermen's
huts. Its castle, built in the fifteenth century, was held by the
English from 1547 to 1550, and was retaken along with the fort on the
hill by the Scottish allied army. Coupar-Angus, a tidy thriving town,
stands in the valley of Strathmore, partly in Forfarshire and partly in
Perthshire. Its inhabitants, according to the census of 1871, number
2149, and of these 303 reside in the Forfarshire portion. It has linen
factories, a tannery, farina works, and saw-mills, and important markets
for the sale of farm stock and produce are held at it. The ruins of an
abbey, built in 1164 by Malcolm IV., remain in
the neighbourhood on the site of a Roman camp. Kirriemuir and Southmuir,
with a population of 4000, stand on a slope above the Gairie burn, about
16 miles north of Dundee. They form a burgh of barony, and their linen
works employ a large number of people. There is a public school in the
town, built in 1835 with £8000 bequeathed for the purpose by John
Webster, writer and banker.
Stonehaven is the county town of Kincardine. A burgh
of barony and a seaport, with a population of over 3396, it stands on a
rocky bay at the mouth of the Carron, and at the extreme northern end of
the great valley known as Strathmore. Its principal industries are
tanneries, and wool, flour, and meal mills, while herring and white
fishing give employment to a large number of its population. Only small
vessels can enter the harbour. About 1½
mile along the coast to the south-west of Stonehaven stands the famous
Dunnottar Castle. The ruins of this castle occupy about four acres on
the summit of a rock that rises almost perpendicularly out of the sea,
and is almost separated from the mainland by a narrow and deep chasm. In
earlier days, considered impregnable, it was stormed in 1297 by Wallace,
who is said to have driven the English garrison over the cliffs. It was
a place of considerable importance clown to the seventeenth century,
when it was used for several months as a prison for 167 Covenanters,
male and female. The Earls of Marischall, the founders of Marischall
College, Aberdeen, resided here. In 1650 Charles II.
visited Dunnottar, bringing the Scottish regalia with him for
safety. It is stated that Mrs Grainger of Kinneff secretly removed the
regalia to the parish church of Kinneff, and thus prevented their
falling into the hands of the English, when, in 1652, the garrison of
Dunnottar, under Ogilvy of Barras, surrendered to Cromwell's forces. The
ruins are in a wonderfully good state of preservation.
Bervie is the only royal burgh in the county.
Situated about 10 miles south-west of Stonehaven, at the mouth of the
Bervie Water, it has a population of 1013. The first linen yarn mill in
Scotland was erected here in 1790. Flax spinning and weaving are its
staple manufactures. Hallgreen Castle, an important stronghold of the
sixteenth century, stands on an eminence within the burgh. In the year
1800 some vessels were chased to the shore by a French sloop-of-war,
which, however, is said to have "taken fright and sailed away on seeing
the muster of the volunteers"! Gourdon, a thriving fishing village with
a population of 714, is the port of Bervie.
Laurencekirk, the chief town of the Howe, with a
population of 1521, lies 10 miles north of Montrose. It may be said to
owe its very existence to a gentleman of the eighteenth century —Francis
Garden, a Judge of the Court of Session, under the title of Lord
Gardenstone, who raised it from a clay-built hamlet with 54 inhabitants
to a substantially built burgh of barony. He erected a town hall, an
inn, an Episcopal chapel, a library and museum ; while he also set up a
spinning mill with a bleachfield on the Luther, a tributary of the North
Esk, and introduced linen manufactures. Johnshaven, with a population of
1077, is an irregularly built fishing village about 9 miles north-east
of Montrose. Its harbour is small, capable of admitting only boats and
small coasting vessels. One of the most charmingly situated villages in
the north of Scotland is Banchory, on the north bank of the river Dee,
about 18 miles west of Aberdeen. In 1871 it had a population of 865; but
being a favourite summer resort, it has increased considerably since
then. In the parish of Nigg, and directly opposite Aberdeen, is the
important fishing village of Torry. It has a population of 686, chiefly
engaged in fishing. About 5 miles along the coast lies the village of
cove, with a population of 450. It is a coastguard station, and has a
small natural harbour. The other more important villages are St Cyrus,
Auchinblae, and Fettercairn, the older part of the last being a burgh of
barony. The Queen and Prince Consort spent a night in Fettercairn, in
September 1861,. and an elegant Gothic arch near the hotel where they
slept commemorates the royal visit.
The configuration of Forfarshire presents great
variety. It combines the wildest of mountain scenery with the softest
and most charming of valley landscape. The county forms four natural
divisions, the Maritime, Sidlaw, Strathmore, and Grampian sections. The
first extends along the coast from Invergowrie to the North Esk, and
stretches from 3 to 8 miles-backwards. Between Broughty Ferry and
Montrose there is a considerable extent of links, unfit for cultivation,
and of little value for pasture, but admirably adapted to the royal game
of golf and other sports. It contains several tracts of remarkably rich
land ; is in some parts beautifully wooded and undulating; in others
rather flat and tame; while, as it rises towards the Sidlaws, the soil
is here and there stiff and cold, or thin and poor, with little shelter.
The Sidlaws, a range of trappean hills, almost in line with the Ochils,
run through the county from south-west to north-east, terminating a
little south of Montrose. The range is very clearly defined, and rises
to a height of 1399 feet at Auchterhouse Hill, near the middle of the
chain. The other higher peaks are the Gallow Hill, in Glamis, 1242; the
Gask 1141, and Kinpurnie 1134 feet. At the pass between Dundee and
Newtyle, the ridge sinks to about 1000 feet. The Sidlaw division is true
to the general characteristics of trap districts. The higher peaks are
partially covered with heather and other coarse herbage, and the slopes
green and very uneven-Cultivation has been pushed to a great altitude on
both sides, the arable land being continued through the pass between
Newtyle and Dundee. The third natural division, Strathmore, or the Great
Valley, is, from a purely agricultural point of view the most important
of the four. In reality, Strathmore consists of a belt of Old Red
Sandstone that extends from the west end of the Ochils, where it is
about 16 miles in width, to Stonehaven,, where the width is less than 1
mile. This beautiful plain is about 90 miles in length, and it has been
truly said that nowhere else in Scotland is there so extensive a reach
of perfectly level fertile soil. The Forfarshire portion of this fine
strath is hemmed in by the Sidlaw and Grampian ranges, and displays
scenery of great beauty. The valley is well wooded ; its farms well laid
off and skillfully cultivated, and the soft lowland aspect of its
landscape forms a striking contrast to the rugged sterile contour of the
heights on the north-west. The Grampian division is by far the most
extensive, but the greater part is so mountainous as to be of little
value in an agricultural sense. This chain of hills is a continuation of
the Grampian range, and includes, in Forfarshire, about 100 peaks over
1000 feet in altitude. The slopes running down to Strathmore are known
as the Braes of Angus, the ancient name of the county of Forfar. These
slopes are extensive, very irregular in surface, on the whole moderately
fertile, in some parts especially so, and are cultivated high up the
hill side. The mountain range is intersected by several large glens, the
chief ones being Glenesk, Glenisla, Glen Clova, and Glen Prosen. The
scenery in these hilly regions is exceedingly beautiful, particularly in
Clova, where the hills are steep and picturesque, and where a large
number of rare plants are to be found. The higher peaks are Glasmhaol,
which reaches an altitude of 3500 feet, and on which the counties of
Forfar, Perth, and Aberdeen meet; Cairnglasha, a little to the north,
3490 feet; Cairnbannoch, and Broadcairn, in Clova, each 3300; Tolmount,
also in Clova, 3100; Mount Keen, north of Lochlee, 3077. There are 55
peaks between 2000 and 3000 feet, and 12 over 3000.
The Grampian range and the valley of Strathmore both
run into Kincardineshire. The former, indeed, make up about one-third of
the entire county. The highest peak here is Mount Battock, on which
Forfar, Aberdeen, and Kincardine meet, the altitude being 2555 feet.
From this point the range gradually descends, until it terminates at
Doonie's Hill, on the coast of Nigg, and 214 feet above sea level. In
the Glen of Dye, and along the course of the Feugh, there is a good deal
of cultivated land; while the slopes running down to the Dee are not
only fertile but beautifully wooded and picturesque. The southern and
south-eastern division of the county comprises the Howe of the Mearns
(the name given to the part of the valley of Strathmore extending into
Kincardineshire), the Hill of Garvock, and the coast from the mouth of
the North Esk to about Muchalls. The Garvock Hill, like the Sidlaws in
Forfarshire, separates the coast from the central plain, which, though
rather less fertile, and not so well wooded as the corresponding portion
of the Great Valley in Forfarshire, is nevertheless a moderately rich
and very well cultivated stretch of land. Around Fettercairn the scenery
partakes a good deal of the soft beauty that characterises the most
charming parts of the valley farther south. The land sloping towards the
sea is, generally speaking, bare and uneven. The coast is extremely
steep and rocky, and dangerous to shipping.
There are a good many lochs in Forfarshire, but they
are small. The largest is Lochlee, fed by the streams of Lee and Unich.
It is only about 1¼ mile in length, and barely
half a mile in breadth. It lies in the extreme north of the county. A
little to the south-west (in Clova) are the small lochs of Wharral and
Brandy, while still further south lies Lintrathen Loch, enlarged by the
Melgarn being diverted into it for the purpose of forming a larger
reservoir for the Dundee Water Works. It now extends to about 1¼
square mile. The loch of Forfar, which was partially drained for its
marl, and for the improvement of the surrounding land, lies on the west
of the town, and extends to about 1 mile by ¼
mile. The Fithie, Rescobie, and Balgavies Lochs are in this
neighbourhood, while in Lundi there are four lochlets, the largest being
Longloch, ½ mile by ¼
mile. Several small lochs, including those of Kinnordy and Logie in
Kirriemuir, and Restenet in Forfar, were drained for their skell marl,
which was used for agricultural purposes. In Kincardineshire, the lochs
are both few and small. The loch of Drum once covered about 300 acres,
but has been reduced to less than one-third. The loch of Leys, at one
time more than 2 miles in circuit, has been drained. Loirston Loch, 27
acres in extent, lies in the parish of Nigg; and at Fasque there is a
beautiful artificial loch, covering about 20 acres.
The chief rivers in Forfarshire are the Isla, the
South Esk, and the North Esk. The Isla, rising in the extreme
north-west, drains the western districts of the county, and passing into
Perthshire near Ruthven, and, after a course of 42 miles, empties itself
into the Tay at Cargill. The South Esk has its source in Clova, and
flows south-east for the first half of its course, which is about 50
miles in length, and due east the latter. It drains the main portion of
the centre of the county, and falls into the sea at Montrose, its mouth
forming a large and beautiful basin. Its chief tributaries are the
Prosen, the Carity, the Noran, and the Lemno. The Prosen has a course of
about 16 miles, and after receiving the burns of Glenlogie, Glenoig, and
Lednathy, joins the South Esk below Cortachy Castle. The North Esk or
East Water has a course of about 40 miles. It drains the north-eastern
division of the county, forms for a long distance the boundary line
between Forfar and Kincardine, and falls into the sea about 3½
miles north of Montrose. On the right, it receives the waters of the
Effock, the Keeny, and the Mooran, from which, at a cost of £15,000, a
daily supply of 500,000 gallons of water was diverted for the town of
Brechin. The Tarf, the Turret, the Meallie, and Auch-mull and other
streams join the North Esk from the left. The water of Lunan, issuing
from Lunan Well, Restenet, and Balgavies, flows in a north-easterly
direction for about 17 miles, and empties itself into the beautiful bay
of Lunan. The Dighty has a course almost as long, and drains a portion
of the eastern slope of the Sidlaws, and falls into the Firth of Tay at
Milton. The North and South Esk are excellent salmon streams, while in
the smaller waters there is a good supply of trout. In most of the
lochs, too, lovers of the piscatorial art find capital sport. The
northern and western slopes of Kincardineshire are drained respectively
by the Dee and the North Esk and their tributaries, the interior being
drained by the waters of Bervie, Carron, Cowie, Finella, and other
smaller streams. The Bervie rises in the parish of Fordoun, and after a
course of about 14 miles, falls into the sea a little north of
Inverbervie. The Finella, with a course of 7 miles, rises at Garvock,
and falls into the sea near Johnshaven. The Carron and the Cowie, each
about 9 or 10 miles long, rise respectively in Glenbervie and Wodder
Hill, and fall into the German Ocean at Stonehaven. The Luther, rising
at the head of the Glen of Drumtochty, is the chief tributary of the
North Esk in Kincardineshire; that of the Dee being the Feugh. The
latter stream, with a course of 15 miles, rises near Mount Battock, and
falls into the Dee at Banchory. The scenery at the junction of the Feugh
and the Dee is very beautiful, the Falls of Feugh being greatly admired.
The Water of Dye rises at the top of Glendye, and after a course of 10
miles, joins the Feugh a little above the village of Strachan. The
Sheeoch water rises on the east of Kerloch, and after a run of about 8
miles, joins the Dee near the Church of Durris.
The counties have long enjoyed the advantages of
active communication with the outer world. They can boast of several
moderately-sized harbours, and for more than thirty years have had a
pretty good railway system. The main line of the Caledonian Railway,
which enters Forfarshire at Coupar-Angus, and passes through about the
richest parts of both counties, was opened to Aberdeen in 1850. Since
then, the local system in Forfarshire has been extending gradually, and
is now exceptionally complete. Coupar-Angus and Blairgowrie are united
by a branch line of 4¾ miles; Meigle and Alyth
by a line of 2 miles ; Forfar and Kirriemuir by a line of 6 miles;
Bridge of Dun and Brechin by a line of 4 miles; Dubton and Montrose by a
line of 3 miles; Guthrie Junction and Dundee by a line of 24¼
miles; Forfar and Dundee by a line of 21¼
miles; and Meigle and Dundee by a line of 18 miles. Coupar-Angus, Meigle,
Forfar, Bridge of Dun, Dubton, and Guthrie Junction are all stations on
the main line, and thus, it will at once be seen that the leading
districts of the county have been brought into wonderfully close
connection with the highways of commerce, an advantage not easily
overestimated. It is interesting to note that the railway between Meigle
and Dundee is one of the oldest in Scotland. Opened in 1831, its
original route was by the Balbeuchly and Hatton inclines, worked by
stationary engines. It was afterwards altered to easier gradients,
making the route longer by 6 miles. From Meigle it runs over the
Sidlaw range
by the Pass of Auchterhouse, and winds its way to Dundee via
Baldragan, Lochee, Camperdown, and Liff. The branch from Guthrie
Junction to Dundee passes through Friockheim, Arbroath, East Haven,
Carnoustie, Barry, Moni-fieth, Broughty Ferry, and Dundee. In connection
with the North British Railway, steamboats ply between Broughty Ferry
and Tayport, and Dundee and Newport. To supersede this somewhat
unsatisfactory connecting link, the Company constructed the ill-fated
Tay bridge. The length is 2 1/8
miles, and the number of spans eighty-nine, the centre one being 200
feet wide, and 115 feet high. The cost exceeded £400,000.
The bridge, which was constructed of iron, worked well for some time,
and was acknowledged by all who saw it in its completeness to be the
most wonderful achievement of modern engineering. But, during a terrific
hurricane on the memorable night of the 28th December 1879, it gave way
under a passenger train, causing the loss of between thirty-five and
forty lives. Kincardineshire is not so well supplied with local lines. A
branch of 13¼
miles connects Montrose and Bervie, while the Deeside Railway runs
through the parishes of Drumoak and Banchory-Ternan.
From an agricultural point of view, Forfar and Kincardine occupy a
prominent position among Scottish counties. In the lower districts of
Forfarshire, with their genial climate and rich soil, the cultivation of
potatoes and wheat is carried to a perfection not excelled in any other
part of the country. In Kincardineshire and the higher parts of
Forfarshire, less favoured by nature, quite as much skill and care are
exercised in the raising of oats and turnips, while in both counties the
rearing and feeding of stock are pursued with great success.
In both counties there is a considerable extent under
wood, the total value of which is great. In Forfar, there were 26,604
acres under wood in 1854; the increase since then being 1492. The area
in Kincardine increased from 16,652 acres in 1854 to 27,843 acres in the
present year, being an increase of no less than 11,191 acres. The extent
of land in Forfarshire this year, under both grass and fruit trees, was
52 acres; used by market-gardeners for the growth of vegetables and
other garden produce, 282 acres; and used by nurserymen, 106 acres. In
Kincardine there is no ground under grass and fruit trees, but
market-gardeners occupy 20 and nurserymen 12 acres. Both counties are
valuable from a sporting point of view, containing as they do many
excellent grouse moors and several very good deer forests.
Population.
The following table shows the population of the two
counties at various times since the beginning of the present century:—
|
|
|
Forfar. |
Kincardine. |
|
1801, |
|
99,053 |
26,349 |
|
1851, |
|
191,264 |
34,598 |
|
1861, |
|
204,425 |
34,466 |
|
1871, |
|
237,528 |
34,651 |
|
Increase in Forfar since 1801, 138,475. |
|
Increase in
Kincardine since 1801, 8,302. |
It will thus be seen that the population of Forfar
has been more than doubled during the present century. This remarkable
increase is due almost wholly to the development of the commercial
industries of the county, particularly to the growth of the linen
factories. The population in the rural districts has decreased since
1801, while that of Dundee is more than four times as large as it was
fifty or sixty years ago. The total increase in Kincardineshire is much
less, being under one third; but here, also, there has been a diminution
in the rural parts and a large increase in the towns and villages. In
regard to population Forfarshire stands fourth, and Kincardineshire
twenty-fifth in Scotland. The former has one person for every 2
2/5 acres; and the latter, one for every 7 acres.
The rate in Scotland as a whole is about 3½
acres to each person. Of the population in Forfarshire in 1871, 106,223
were males and 131,355 females; Kincardineshire had 16,790 males and
17,861 females. In 1871, the inhabited houses in Forfarshire numbered
25,663, or one for every 9 of population; and in Kincardineshire 6661,
or nearly equal to one for every 5 persons. The town of Dundee itself
claims fully one-half the whole population of Forfar; while about
three-fourths reside in the six larger towns, viz.:—Dundee,
Arbroath, Montrose, Forfar, Brechin, and Bronghty-Ferry. About one-fifth
of the population of Kincardine reside in Stonehaven, Laurencekirk,
Johnshaven, and Bervie, these being the only places in the county whose
inhabitants number or exceed 1000. The history and antiquities of these
counties are very interesting, but these matters he outside the subject
proper of this report.
Climate.
Throughout these counties there is great variety in
the climate. Within Forfarshire itself it differs very greatly. Along
the coast it is mild and dry, the rainfall being under 30 inches, and
the mean annual temperature high. The summer heat and the cold in the
winter are less intense than in the interior, while low down by the
seaboard snow seldom lies longer than two or three days. On the Sidlaw
Hills and the slopes leading up to them the climate of course is colder.
The rainfall is greater, and snow often lies to a considerable depth for
a pretty long period. In the valley of Strathmore the climate is genial
and moderately dry, being well adapted to the cultivation of wheat.
Along the Braes of Angus, owing to their close proximity to the Grampian
range, the climate is even more rigorous than on the Sidlaws. The winter
cold is more severe and the rainfall greater, while these parts are also
more subject to heavy falls of snow.
Throughout the mountainous region the summer weather is generally
warm—sometimes very hot, and for the most part moderately dry. In
winter, however, it is stormy in the extreme,—so much so, indeed, that
during the dead of the winter sheep-farmers have to withdraw their
flocks from the higher glens. The climate of the hilly districts of
Kincardine resembles very closely that of the corresponding parts of
Forfar; but with regard to the climate of its arable parts, the northern
county has not been so highly favoured as the southern. The coast of
Kincardine is colder than that of Forfar. The coastline is very rocky
and steep, while the land rises rapidly as it recedes. The Garvock Hill
rises to a height of 915 feet, and yet its highest peak is little more
than 3½ miles inland. At Bervie and several
other points the land reaches a height of about 400 feet within a mile
from the sea; while, generally speaking, the elevation one mile inland
averages from 180 to 220 feet. The Howe of the Mearns enjoys a more mild
and more equable climate than any other part of the county, and yet even
there it is not equal to the Howe of Strathmore in Forfarshire. This is
due partly to the fact that the Howe of the Mearns lies nearer to the
Grampians, that it is farther north, and that it is not so well wooded
as the valley farther south. The greater portion of the parishes of
Fordoun, Glenbervie, and Fetteresso are rather bare, the climate on the
higher and more inland parts of the latter two being cold and late. Snow
seldom lies long on the coast or in the Howe of Mearns, but on the
Garvock Hill and the higher districts of the interior it often falls in
considerable quantities, drifts fiercely, and lies for pretty long
periods. The higher parts of Nigg, Banchory-Devenick, Mary-culter, and
Durris are similar in regard to climate to the heights of Glenbervie and
Fetteresso. The section of Kincardineshire lying on the north side of
the Dee, part of the parish of Drumoak and the parish of Banchory-Ternan,
is favoured with perhaps the warmest climate of any part of the county.
Sheltered from the north by the Hill of Fare, it has a southern
exposure, and is well wooded, with a free porous soil. The slopes on the
south
side of the Dee are generally steeper and colder,
being exposed, excepting in the lower verges, to the full blast of the
north winds. The soil in general being of a sandy nature, the land on
Deeside frequently suffers considerably from drought in summer, a
drawback from which, with this exception, these two counties are
comparatively free. The prevailing winds are from the south-west. These
winds sometimes sweep along the valley of Strathmore with great
violence, there being no eminence sufficient to check them. Coming from
a warmer climate, however, they are not as a rule unfavourable to
vegetation. Westerly winds, which are not unfrequent, spend upon the
Grampians the moisture they absorb in crossing the Atlantic, and thus
they are invariably pretty dry before they reach the east coast. The
easterly winds are the most damaging, alike to vegetable and animal
life. They occasionally sweep the seaboard, especially of Kincardine,
with great violence, doing no little damage to crops, and also pressing
somewhat hardly on the health of man and beast. A chilly easterly haze,
which sometimes sets in in the summer evenings, is also a slight
drawback; while in the lower and damper parts of the valley of
Strathmore some damage is occasionally sustained from hoar-frost
or mildew. Notwithstanding these slightly untoward influences, the
climate of Forfar and Kincardine is on the whole healthy. Spring sowing
of grain generally commences in the earlier parts in the third week of
March, and harvesting between the beginning of the third
week of August and the 5th of September. In the later districts
little is sown till the last week of March or first week of April, and
reaping seldom commences before the 1st of September, often not before
the second week of September, and sometimes, such as in 1879, even later
than that. The mean annual heat of the two counties is stated at
46°—that of summer at 58°; and that of winter, in Forfar at 36°, and in
Kincardine at 37°. In Forfarshire rain or snow, it is stated, falls on
an average on 195 days, the mean depth in inches being—at Kettins, 33;
Monikie, 34; Arbroath, 27; Dundee, 29. In Kincardine rain or snow falls
on an average 190 days, the mean depth in inches being reckoned at 32½,
At Drum it is 34; Nether Banchory, 30; Fettercairn, 32; and The Burn,
33.
Through the kindness of Mr James Proctor, Barry
Village, Forfarshire, we are able to give the following interesting
table as to the rainfall, evaporation, and temperature at Barry, from
1870 to 1879, both inclusive.
Barry Village is within about one mile of the sea,
and about 35 feet above sea-level.

Geology—Soil.
The main features of the geological formation of
these counties may be indicated in a few sentences. The Grampian range
is composed mainly of primary rocks. The tops are formed almost wholly
of granite, but, descending the southern and eastern slopes, we find the
primary rocks associated with small quantities of those belonging to the
transition formation, layers of gneiss, mica schist, and quartz being
interspersed with small deposits of limestone and clay-slate. A slate
vein runs along the hill sides, from a little north of Stonehaven to
Easdale, Argyle, and is nearly all the way accompanied by a dyke of
trap, or whinstone, which gives value to the soil and beauty and variety
to the scenery. The slate comes to the surface at several points, and in
some parts, notably in Fearn and Lethnot, it has been quarried. The
valley of Strathmore is one long bed of Old Red Sandstone. The Sidlaws,
in Forfarshire, and the Garvock Hill, and the other lower hills further
north in Kincardineshire, are composed mainly of trappean rocks,
with several important deposits of greyish blue sandstone slate, which
is of excellent quality for pavement, and which at Carmyllie and
elsewhere is quarried extensively for local use and also for
exportation. At various points throughout both counties there are
deposits of limestone. In Forfarshire it exists in Clova; Glenesk; in
some of the Sidlaw valleys; at Hedder-wick, near Montrose; and at Bodden
in Craig. In Kincardineshire, it is found at Clattering Brig; at
Drumtochty and Glen-farquhar in Fordoun; at Whistleberry, Kinneff; at
Mathers, St Cyrus; at Kirtonhiil, Marykirk; and at Tilwhilly and
elsewhere on Deeside. At several of these places the limestone has been
extensively worked for many years. At Bodden it was worked as early as
1696. In both counties there are some deposits of conglomerate, or
pudding stone, that on the hill on the farm of West Drums, near Brechin,
being considered one of the most perfect in the country. At Dunthill,
Marykirk, there is a bed of New Red Sandstone, but there is not enough
to give any hopes of there being coal underneath it. At Cowie and
elsewhere in Kincardine, and at several points in Forfar, pipeclay is
found. At Montrose, Arbroath, Durris, Fetteresso, and at other places,
there are chalybeate or iron ore springs with medicinal properties.
Fossil remains of plants and fishes occur in the sandstone; but, as
might have been expected, all borings for coal have been unsuccessful,
for that valuable substance does not exist under Old Red Sandstone.
Throughout the sandstone districts there is a good deal of iron, to
which the Red Sandstone owes its colour. About 1710 an iron mine was
worked for a short time in Edzell.
With such distinct geological formations, it is only
natural to expect that these counties should present considerable
variety of soil. The rule that the surface soil corresponds to the rocks
beneath holds exceptionally true in Forfar and Kincardine. The extent of
alluvial soil—or, in other words, of soil deposited where it now lies by
water—is very small indeed, and hence it follows that the great portion
of the soil consists of decomposed particles of the underlying rocks,
enriched by the decay of vegetable matter, and by a long-sustained
system of liberal manuring. It is therefore possible, from the foregoing
hurried sketch of the geology of the counties, to form a general idea of
the character of the soil in the various districts. In the south-eastern
districts of Forfar, those lying between the Sidlaw range and the sea,
the soil is, generally speaking, of a light friable nature, well suited
for potatoes and turnips. Nearly midway between Dundee and Arbroath
there are small portions well adapted to the cultivation of beans; while
in the Invergowrie district there is a good deal of very fine grain
land, some parts of which, however, are slightly subject to drought.
Close by the sea at Monifieth there is a portion of as rich dark brown
loam as one could wish to see; while in Panbride, Arbroath, and
elsewhere along the coast there is a pretty
large extent of similar soil. On some parts of the southern slopes of
the Sidlaws, and along as far as the parishes of Monikie and Carmyllie,
the sub-soil is hard and retentive; but, as a rule, along the coast it
is free and easy, with a small admixture of gravel. On the more inland
parts of Carmyllie and in that neighbourhood there is a good deal of
thin moorish soil; while along the higher
arable parts, on both sides of the Sidlaw range, the soil varies from a
very thin "hungry" loam to pretty fertile loam of moderate depth. As we
descend the north-western slopes we find the soil increasing in depth
and quality until, on the banks lying partly on the trap rocks and
partly on the Red Sandstone, it becomes very sound heavy reddish loam,
well adapted to the cultivation of wheat and potatoes, and rented at
from 35s. to 50s. per acre. With the exception of a small stretch of
mossy land near the west end of the valley, the soil of Strathmore is,
on the whole, true to the character of the formation to which it
belongs. On unbroken belts of Old Bed Sandstone, the soil is generally a
reddish loam of medium texture, very fertile and not difficult to work,
with a sub-soil of sand, gravel, or friable clay. This is as near as
might be the general character of the soil along the valley of
Strathmore; but while the composition does not differ greatly, there are
many degrees of depth and value. It is evident that large portions of
the lower-lying parts of Strathmore have been scoured by water, for in
several of these parts the soil is very thin and gravelly; in a few
spots, indeed, so much so that it is scarcely worthy of being
cultivated. On the Mains of Glamis and some other farms in the bottom of
the valley, the soil is both deep and sound, but, as a rule, the heavier
and richer soil lies on the banks and lower parts of the slopes. In the
Guthrie and Farnell districts there is great variety of soil. Indeed,
there are few farms on which there is not both very rich and very poor
land. The most of the land here lies on a clayey subsoil, some of it
rather stiff, and resting on the sandstone. Towards Montrose, the soil
becomes easier and lighter, but on many farms it is heavy and fertile,
being mixed with decomposed trap rocks. In the Howe of Kinnaird there is
some very stiff clay, which, in these untoward times, is proving a
rather stubborn subject to work. Part of the Howe lies so low that it
has been found almost impossible to drain it sufficiently well to admit
of its undoubtedly high productive powers being taken full advantage of.
It is understood that the redraining of part of the Howe is being
contemplated, and much improvement would certainly result were that
carried out. On the rising ground in this neighbourhood the soil is
generally a fertile friable loam on a clayey, sandy, or gravelly
subsoil. Along the Braes of Angus, which include a large range of
country, the soil varies from a thin poor loam, resting on a close red
"pan" coming very near to the surface, to good, deep, sound, black loam
lying on limestone, trap, sandstone, primary rocks, or a mixture of two
or more of these. A friable black loam of medium depth and fertility
predominates, the most general subsoil being gravel mixed with clay. Dr
Page's graphic description of the configuration of districts adjoining
beds of the Old Red Sandstone, applies so truly to the Braes of Angus
that we produce it here. He says:—"The hills of Old Red districts,
partly composed of traps and partly of soft sandstones and hard
conglomerates, present great diversity of scenery, here rising in
rounded heights, there sinking in easy undulations, now swelling in
sunny slopes, and, anon, retiring in winding glens or rounded
valley-basins of great beauty and fertility." A more correct description
of this part of Forfarshire it would be impossible to give.
Along the Kincardineshire coast, from the mouth of
the North Esk to Stonehaven, the soil varies from deep rich loam to thin
poor black earth or stiff cold clay. A medium loam predominates. In the
parishes of Benholm and St Cyrus, there is a good deal of moderately
heavy fertile loam, which produces excellent crops. In Bervie, there is
also some very good loam, but on almost every farm there is considerable
variety, part being free black loam, resting on an open subsoil, part
red or brown stiff clay, and part thin and moorish. Similar remarks
apply to Kinneff and Dunnottar. On the Garvock Hill the soil is cold,
stiff, and sour, heavy to cultivate, and even when well cultivated only
moderately fertile. The greater part of the Howe of the Mearns is
similar to the main portion of the valley of Strathmore in Forfarshire,
the soil being, as a rule, a reddish loam, resting on sand, gravel, or
clay. Gravel predominates on the north-western slopes, and clay on the
southeastern. Generally speaking, the soil of the Howe is not quite
equal to the Forfarshire part of the Great Valley, but still near
Fettercairn, in some parts of Fordoun, and elsewhere, there is some very
rich land. Around the village of Fettercairn the soil is deep, strong,
rich loam; but in other parts of this parish, and in Edzell,
Laurencekirk, and Fordoun, not a little of the land consists of moderate
black loam or stiffish clay. Taken as a whole, Fordoun is an excellent
agricultural parish, there being in it a large breadth of really good
substantial clayey loam. The soil on the best farms in Fordoun and
Laurencekirk is a heavy loam, with an admixture of clay. In some seasons
it is not very easily reduced to a satisfactory tilth, but when well
worked and liberally manured, it yields abundantly, and is rented at
from 35s. to 45s. per acre. Along the slopes on the hill sides the soil
is thin friable loam. In the parish of Glenbervie there is some good
clay loam, but there is also a good deal of thin reddish land that
produces only moderate crops. There are some deposits of moss in this
parish. In the parish of Fetteresso, near Stonehaven, the soil is mostly
sharp friable loam, but in the more inland and higher parts it is an
inferior clayey or moorish loam. Throughout the northern half of
Kincardine, the soil consists mainly of decomposed granite, with an
admixture of moss and other vegetable substances. In the parishes of
Banchory-Devenick, Nigg, and Maryculter, the surface is remarkably
stoney, large blocks of granite being very numerous on all uncultivated
patches. It would seem that the greater part of the coast-side district
between Stonehaven and Aberdeen had at one time been covered with moss.
There is a good deal still in the uncultivated parts, though the
inhabitants have been carting it away for fuel perhaps for centuries.
The soil, too, in the arable parts is impregnated with it, and in this
respect the land here differs slightly from that in the Deeside
districts of the county, where there is less moss. There the soil is
chiefly light, friable, fertile, sandy loam, with subsoil of clay and
gravel, or gravel alone. Under liberal farming for a long-period, it has
become considerably richer than it was originally, and in a year when
moisture is plentiful it yields excellent crops of barley, oats,
turnips, and potatoes. In the parish of Durris, back from the river
side, there is a good deal of stiff loam lying on a damp clayey subsoil.
Exceptionally close drainage has been required here to make the land
useful, and although it has, on the whole, been well handled in this
respect, it is still of a somewhat damp cold nature. The arable land in
Strachan lies along the courses of the Feugh and its tributary the Dye;
and in these parts the soil is mostly of a medium loam, friable and
fertile in a favourable season, and lying on clayey gravel or on the
primary rocks. Away far up on the Feugh side there are some wonderfully
rich pieces of land, admirably suited for the raising of barley, oats,
and turnips.
The Progress of the past Twenty-five Years.
Before tracing the progress of the past twenty-five
years (the period over which this report is required to extend), it
would have been interesting to have given an account of the ancient
systems of farming, and of the social condition of the two counties a
century ago. Such an account, however, would take up more space than
could well be devoted to a subject not properly within the range of the
report. A few sentences must therefore suffice. As might be expected,
from its better climate and more southern situation, the lower part of
Forfarshire was earlier brought under a system of improved husbandry
than Kincardineshire, and thus the contrast between the farming in
Forfarshire now and eighty years ago is less striking than between the
agriculture of Kincardineshire at the present day and at the
commencement of the century. From the Rev. Mr Rodger's Report on
Forfarshire, drawn up in 1794, it appears that wheat was then cultivated
in every parish in the lower parts of the county; that Angus oats, still
famous, had then a wide reputation; that sown grasses were used on
almost every farm; that turnips were freely grown; and that potatoes
were cultivated with great success, the yield in some instances being as
high as from 50 to 60 bolls of 16 stones per acre. The number of cattle
was estimated at 36,499; a small breed, ranging in weight from 16 to 20
stones avoirdupois, occupying the higher grounds, and a larger breed,
weighing from 40 to 70 stones, the lower parts. Sheep numbered 53,970,
and were mostly of the blackfaced, a few being of the ancient dun or
whitefaced kind, and others of mixed breeding. On some of the better
managed farms, and around proprietors' residences, there was a good deal
of enclosed land mostly under pasture. Farm implements were still
primitive, but improvements were fast being introduced. The clumsy old
Scotch plough, modernised by metal boards, was still in use, but
improved ploughs, chiefly of Small's make, were speedily superseding it.
It was not uncommon to see four horses attached to a plough, and oxen
were employed on many farms. Ploughmen's wages, without board, averaged
about 1s. 3d. per day. There was then a large extent of wood in the
county, and early in the present century the area was greatly increased
by Lord Airlie, Sir Jamas Carnegie, the Strathmore family, and others.
The Rev. Mr Headrick states the number and rental of the farms in 1813
as follows, viz.:—Under £20 of annual rental. 1574; between £20 and £50,
565; between £50 and £100, 682; between £100 and £300, 315; and above
£300, 86; making in all 3222 farms.
Agricultural improvement in Kincardineshire would
seem to date from about 1760. About that time some important steps of
advancement were made by a few enterprising proprietors and farmers, but
it was not before the advent of the present century that the spirit of
improvement spread throughout the main body of the tenantry. The area of
cultivated land about the commencement of the century is stated at
74,377 acres, and that under actual tillage at 45,736, it being
estimated that other 28,000 acres were capable of being cultivated. In
the better parts of the county, in the Howe of the Mearns, and in the
parishes of St Cyrus and Benholm, wheat had been grown as far back as
tradition and record stretched; while by 1807, barley, oats, peas,
beans, potatoes and turnips, and sown grasses were cultivated with
success all over the county. The practice of leaving land in fallow is
said to have been introduced into the county by Mr Barclay of Urie in
1761. It spread gradually over the county, and in 1807 the fallow break
was estimated at 2619 acres. A pretty regular and well-understood system
of rotation was pursued about the commencement of the century. In the
wheat districts the older rotation was—1st, fallow and turnips; 2d, part
wheat and part barley, usually two-thirds of the former; 3d, beans; 4th,
barley; 5th, clover; 6th, pasture ; and 7th, oats. Following this came a
six-course rotation, of fallow, wheat, beans and turnips in equal
proportions, barley, clover, and oats, in order. On thin outlying soils
the rotation was fallow, barley, pasture for two years, and then oats.
Mr Barclay for some time pursued with success a rotation of four crops,
viz.—1st, wheat, manured after clover; 2d, turnips; 3d, barley; and 4th,
clover. In the more hilly parts of the interior the following somewhat
peculiar rotation was followed, viz.,—1st, oats; 2d, oats, or oats and
bere; 3d, turnips, potatoes, and peas; 4th, part oats and part bere;
5th, green crop as before; 6th, part oats and part bere; 7th, clover and
rye grass cut for hay; 8th and 9th, pasture. It is stated that potatoes
were first planted in Kincardineshire in 1727 by an old soldier who had
brought some tubers with him. from Ireland to the village of Marykirk,
where he resided for only one year. He raised a good crop, and it is
recorded that, while the villagers were ready enough to steal the
strange plant, "none of them had the ingenuity to cultivate it after he
was gone." They looked in vain to the stems for the seed. Potatoes were
again introduced into the Mearns in 1760; while in 1754 turnips were
introduced by Mr E. Scott of Dunninald, and grown by him on the farm of
Milton of Mathers, St Cyrus. In 1764, Mr William Lyall, farmer in
Wattieston, Fordoun, raised about an acre of turnips, and it is stated
that the crop was considered so rare that it was sold in small
quantities, at one penny per stone, for kitchen vegetables. This crop
was cultivated on only a very few farms till 1775, but by the beginning
of the present century it was grown all over the county. Sown grasses
were not in general use till about 1770; but it is stated that as early
as 1730, Sir William Nicolson of Glenbervie, "a spirited cultivator at
an early period," raised hay from sown seeds, "not, however, from the
seeds of any of the species of clover now in use, but from such seeds as
were found among the natural meadow hay." The number of cattle in 1807
was 24,825, and it is stated that a four-year-old Mearns ox weighed
about 45 stones. The best cattle are described as black or brown, or
brindled, with spreading horns. There were also some very good polled
cattle, similar to, and no doubt of the same breed as, the Buchan "Humlies,"
the progenitors along with the Angus "Doddies" of the improved polled
Aberdeen and Angus breed. The sheep stock numbered 24,957, and consisted
mainly of blackfaced sheep and the ancient dun faces. Along the coast
there were a few Bakewell Leicesters, and also some South Downs. At the
commencement of the century the farm implements were somewhat primitive.
The ancient Scotch plough was fast giving way to Small's improved
ploughs, which cost about £4 each, and which by 1807 was almost the only
sort of plough used in the county. Harrows, with five wooden bills and
five iron teeth in each, were coming into use, as also were single
carts. During the first ten years of the century about a score of
threshing mills were erected in the county at a cost of from £140 to
£180 each. Among the noted early improvers, Mr Barclay is mentioned as
having been the most prominent. Between 1760 and 1790 he reclaimed over
900 acres, and planted 1000 acres, raising the rental of his estate of
Urie from £200 to £1800 in less than fifty years. Early in the century
great improvement was effected in houses, roads, and fences.
Coming to speak of more recent times, we are happy to
be able to state that the spirit of improvement aroused in the last
century has never been allowed to lie dormant. True, during the last
twenty-five years, a smaller extent of land has been reclaimed than
during either the last twenty-five years of the eighteenth century or
the first twenty-five of the present, but that has not been due to any
flagging in the spirit of improvement, but simply to the fact that only
a limited area of suitable land remained for the proprietors and tenants
of the past twenty-five years to bring under cultivation. There has been
less done lately, simply because there has been less to do. No reliable
data exist upon which to estimate the extent of land reclaimed in the
two counties during the first half of the present century. The Rev. Mr
Headrick estimated the arable land in Forfarshire in 1813 at 340,643
acres, but it is clear that that far exceeded the actual extent, for the
area at present under all kinds of crops, bere, fallow, and grass, falls
short of it by nearly 90,000 acres. The statistics relating to
Kincardineshire seem to be rather more accurate. The area under
cultivation in 1807 was estimated at 74,377 acres, and from this it
would appear that during the first half of the present century about
27,000 acres had been added to the arable extent.
Confining ourselves to the last twenty-five years, we
find that in both counties there has been a very substantial increase in
the extent of arable land. The agricultural returns, taken up at the
outset by the Highland Society and ultimately by the Board of Trade, did
not at the commencement include holdings rented at less than £10 a year.
It is therefore impossible to ascertain the exact extent of the
increase. The following table, however, affords a pretty correct
indication:—

The percentage of the arable area of Forfar under
cultivation in 1870 was 41.8 ; now it is 44.5. In Kincardine, the
percentage in 1870 was 47.1; it is now 48.5.
This increase, equal to 1246 acres a year in Forfar
and 1117 acres in Kincardine, must be regarded as highly creditable,,
especially when it is considered that, as previously stated,
agricultural improvement in these counties had been carried to a great
length long before the period to which the above table refers, so far,
indeed, as to leave comparatively little to be done. In Forfar, the main
portion of the new land lies in the Braes of Angus along the foot of the
Grampians, but there is also a fair proportion on the Sidlaw range.
Throughout all the higher lying parts of Kincardine there has been less
or more reclamation since 1854. On the slopes of the Garvock Hill there
has been a good deal, and also on the hard heights and mossy hollows of
Glenbervie and Fetteresso. Along the foot of the Grampians, in Edzell,
Fettercairn, Laurencekirk, and Fordoun, there has been a narrow fringe
reclaimed within thirty or forty years; a small portion within twenty
years; while in each of the parishes in the northern division of the
county there has been a certain extent reclaimed. Strachan and Durris
claim the larger portion.
The reclamation of land, however, has not constituted
the whole of the agricultural improvement in these counties during the
last twenty-five years. Indeed, it is doubtful if it has not in outlay
been far exceeded by the improvements in farm buildings,, draining,
fencing, road making, and other accessories which tend to develop the
resources of the soil. In both counties there has-been a great deal done
in the improvement of farm buildings, and these are now on the whole
fully abreast of the times. In several parts of Forfar, and also in some
parts in Kincardine, re-draining might be carried out with advantage;
but still, since 1854, a great improvement has been effected in the
condition of" the land in this respect. In the wheat and potato
districts there is yet a large stretch of open land, but in the parts
where the pasturing of live stock holds a prominent place in the economy
of the farm, a great extent of fencing, mostly wire and stone dykes, has
been erected within the last twenty-five or thirty years. In service or
farm roads, too, as well as in the county roads, there has been
considerable improvement; while not a little has been done in the way of
straightening watercourses, squaring fields, draining small pieces of
lake or swamp, clearing the land of stones, and in other small but
useful works.
The progress in the cattle department sustained a
most serious check by rinderpest in 1865-66. It was several years after
that dreadful scourge before the rearing and feeding of cattle were
pursued with the same energy as formerly, but within the past ten years
a good deal of the lost ground has been made up. The number of cattle in
Forfar has decreased since 1854 by 1699 head, and in Kincardine by 202
head. In the character of the stock kept, however, there has been a
considerable improvement since 1854. There is no doubt a greater number
of cattle fed than prior to 1854, and it is equally certain that the
average weight of beef per head is greater now than twenty-five years
ago. Sheep farming has increased greatly in Forfar since 1854, there
being a very small decrease in Kincardine. Here also there has been a
slight increase in the comparative production of meat, if not likewise
of wool.
The valuation roll is perhaps the truest mirror of
the development of a county, and in it these counties appear in a most
favourable light. The following tables show the valuation of the two
counties at various periods since 1674:—

The following tables show the valuation of the
different parishes in the two counties now and twenty-five years ago,
and also the increase in each, thus indicating the parts in which most
improvements have been effected within that period.



Details of Improvements and of Different Systems of
Farming.
Before proceeding to indicate in order the general
farming customs, we shall give, in as condensed a form as possible, some
notes which we collected regarding improvements and systems of
management on different estates and farms throughout both counties. And
in giving these, we have to acknowledge our indebtedness to many
proprietors, factors, and tenants, for much valuable information.
Perhaps the best plan would be to make an imaginary tour through the
various districts, bring the reader along, and transcribe our notes as
we proceed.
Forfar.
Starting, then, where Forfar joins Perth, a few miles
west of Dundee, we find ourselves in the parish of Liff and Benvie,
which has an area of about 8049 acres, and a rental of £13,824, being an
increase of £2310 since 1856-57. The rental in 1683 was £4618 Scots
money. Around Invergowrie there is some very fine land rented at from £4
to £5 an acre, this great value being due to the proximity of the land
to Dundee. One of the largest farmers in this district is Mr William
Smith of Benholm, who manages his land with much liberality and success.
He, along with most of his neighbours, drives a large quantity of city
manure from Dundee, and in addition uses a good deal of artificial
stimulants. A six-shift rotation is the one most generally pursued, that
is—oats, potatoes, wheat, turnips, barley, and one year's grass; all the
produce, except what is required to maintain the working staff of the
farm, being sold. The cow-feeders of Dundee take all the turnips, hay,
and grass they can obtain in their neighbourhood. For some time back
they have been paying such high prices for both, more especially
turnips, that they have been losing heavily by the transaction, and they
are now beginning to deal in these commodities with more moderation.
Even yet, however, farmers have no difficulty in obtaining from £16 to
£22 per acre for a good crop of turnips, according to the situation of
the farm. Coming nearer to Dundee we find still higher-rented land, the
best land all around it being rented at from £5 to £6 per acre. The
rotation pursued here is also mostly the six courses, with one year's
grass and two green crops; but some work without any fixed rotation,
cropping to suit the markets and the condition of their land. On the
farms close to Dundee few more stock are kept than are required for
working the land and supplying the residents with milk, it being found
far more profitable to dispose of the turnips and grass to the
cowfeeders in the town than to consume these on the farm. This, of
course, necessitates very liberal manuring, but from the cowfeeders in
Dundee an abundant supply of dung is always to be had. The suburban
farmers use city manure very freely. The soil around Dundee is mostly an
easy rich loam, in many cases worked into a very high state of
fertility. In some parts there is stiff clay, and on some of the higher
parts thin loam; but, on the whole, it is more than ordinarily fertile,
and is fully taken advantage of. The produce per acre on the suburban
farms varies greatly. Generally speaking, it is above the average of the
county. One of the best managed farms in the neighbourhood of Dundee is
Mid Craigie, occupied by Mr Thomas Drummond. Situated almost in the
suburbs of Dundee, it is well laid off, has been highly farmed for a
very long period, and is in very rich condition. The soil is heavy loam,
well suited for wheat, potatoes, and turnips. An eight-shift rotation is
pursued—grass, oats, potatoes, wheat, turnips, oats, potatoes, and wheat
with grass seeds. There is thus each year one-fourth of the farm in
wheat, one-fourth in oats, one-fourth in potatoes, one-eighth in
turnips, and one-eighth in grass. Few stock are kept, all the surplus
turnips, hay, grass, and straw going to Dundee. The rent per acre is
about £6, payable partly in grain; and the increase since 1850 about
12s. 6d. per acre. The valuation of the landward part of the parish of
Dundee increased from £8261 in 1858-59 to £12,079 in 1876-77. Proceeding
northwards from Dundee we enter the parish of Mains and Strathmartine,
which had a rental of £13,982 in 1856, now increased to no less than
£25,996. The valuation in 1683 was £3113 Scots money. The chief estates
in this parish are—Baldovan, owned by Sir John Ogilvy, Bart.; Balmuir,
belonging to Mr James Webster; and Douglas, the property of the Countess
of Home. On each of these there are several large well-managed farms.
The principal holding on the latter is the Barns of Claverhouse, which
has just passed to the third generation of the Bell family, a family
that has for over half-a-century occupied a leading position among
Forfarshire farmers. Mr George Bell removed lately to the adjoining farm
of Mains of Fintray, leaving in the Barns his only son William, who
continues to manage it with all the energy and skill which his father
and grandfather so successfully applied to it. Mr George Bell and his
father effected great improvement on the farm by draining, road-making,
fencing, building, and in other respects, the former having expended no
less than £2000 on these improvements during his tenancy. Part of a new
steading was erected in 1854, while the remaining portion was renewed in
1874-75, making it one of the most commodious and convenient in the
district. The greater part of the farm lies low, by the side of the
Dighty Water, and there the soil is a clayey loam of a stiffish
tendency. On the rising ground on the north the soil is thin sharp loam.
On the Mains of Fintray the soil is stiffer, but under the careful and
liberal treatment it receives it yields well. It is rented at about £4,
10s. per acre, gives an average of about 4 quarters of wheat per acre,
weighing 62 lbs., and about 5½ quarters of
barley and oats, the former weighing 54 lbs. and the latter 40 to 44
lbs. per bushel. On the north-east of Mains and Strathmartine lies the
parish of Murroes, which contains some very fine and also some very poor
land. Overlooking the valley of the Dighty Water, and commanding a
magnificent view of the German Ocean, the coast of Fife, the Firth of
Tay, and the suburbs of Dundee, stands the old Castle of Powrie. This
hoary ruin adjoins the beautifully situated dwelling-house and steading
of the farm of Powrie, occupied by Mr Thomas Smith, whose choice herd of
polled cattle and equally well-bred flock of English Leicester sheep,
give his farm an interest and importance rivalled by only a few in the
county. Of the herd and flock more anon. The steading on Powrie was
erected in 1806, when the late Mr Smith, father of the present tenant
and a man in many ways in advance of his times, entered the farm. It is
in the form of a square, commodious and substantial. Part of this farm
also lies down on the Dighty valley, and there the soil is pretty strong
loam. The greater part, however, is on high ground, and, though sharp
and sure, is rather wanting in body. Not far away, in the same parish,
is the farm of East and West Murroes, leased by
Mr David Smith at a rent of £873, 12s. Situated on the Gagie
estate, this farm is maintained in very high condition, and produces
good crops of potatoes, wheat, barley, oats, and turnips.. In drains,
stone dykes, and other improvements, Mr Smith has expended over £1600 on
the farm, and every year uses a large quantity of city dung and
artificial manure. He follows a seven-course rotation, which is by far
the most general course in all the wheat and potato districts excepting
in the neighbourhood of Dundee, viz.:—oats, potatoes, wheat, turnips,
barley, and two years' grass. Mr Smith also holds the fine farm of
Grange of Monifieth, which lies nearer the sea, and consists of very
rich friable loam. Here he produces beautiful crops of wheat and
turnips, and also, as at the Murroes, grazes and feeds a large; number
of cattle. Mr Smith's father, the late tenant of Leshade in Murroes, was
one of the most enterprising farmers in this part of the county. He
transformed the farm of Leshade from swamp and moss into one of the best
laid out, and most efficiently fenced holdings in the county. The system
of drainage which he carried out on the farm is most extensive and
unique, and has worked admirably. A great stretch of substantial dykes
were also erected at a heavy outlay.
Passing into the parish of Tealing we find ourselves
on a higher elevation and in a colder climate. This parish, leading up
to the Sidlaws, extends to 7231 acres, and gives a rental of £7832, or
£2007 more than in 1856. The rental in 1683' was £1886 Scots. In the
lower lying portion of the parish there is a good deal of strong rich
land, that yields well when skilfully managed and when the seasons suit.
It is a clayey loam with a subsoil of clay and gravel, in some parts
rather retentive. In part of the hollows there is also very poor soil,
thin, hard, and unproductive, with very stiff subsoil. There are several
instances in this parish where the land on the one-side of the road is
worth 25s. or 30s. an acre, and not worth more than 15s. or 20s. on the
other. On the higher lying parts; there is also a good deal of variety
of soil, but in general it is a moderately fertile loam, resting on a
clayey or gravelly subsoil which in some parts is not so open as could
be wished. Mr Alexander Bell, Kirkton of Tealing, better known as the
late tenant of Balnuth,has been one of the leading farmers in
Forfarshire for many years. For a long time he has been extensively
employed in the valuation of land and farm crops, and has thus acquired
a most extensive and accurate acquaintance with the agriculture of the
county. Entering Balnuth when a young man, he at once commenced
improvements, and in the course of his first lease spent a large sum in
reclamation, draining, fencing, building, and other works, bringing the
farm into high order and convenient form. A good deal of the land is
stiff strong clayey loam, not very well suited to potatoes, but of
wheat, barley, oats, and turnips he raised excellent crops. A few years
ago he transferred Balnuth to his nephew, Mr William Bell, and now
resides on the adjoining farm of Kirkton, which he also maintains in
high condition. At Kirkton the elevation is over 500 feet, and from a
little beyond that the ground rises fast, so that we soon pass beyond
the wheat land, and come into the elevation where oats and turnips
predominate. In these higher parts the ordinary five or six-shift
rotation is pursued, that is turnips, with a small patch of potatoes,
barley or oats or part of both, grass for two or three years, and lastly
oats. Immediately to the west of Tealing lie the parishes of Auchter-house
and Lundie, in which, as in the higher parts of Tealing, a good deal of
land has been reclaimed from moorland within the past thirty years. The
soil is for the most part light, sharp loam; and being as a rule well
farmed, produces good crops of oats, barley, and turnips. The five and
six-shift rotations are also pursued here, and the latter gains ground
every year, owing perhaps partly to the greatly increased cost of
labour, and partly to the fact that turnips are less subject to "finger
and toe" on land worked in six shifts. In these three parishes last
referred to, rent ranges from 20s. to 50s. per acre, the main portion
being under 28s. A few tenants pay as little as 15s. per acre for the
very poorest and coldest of the land. The Earl of Airlie owns the larger
portion of the parish of Auchterhouse, one of his lordship's largest
farms in this district being East Mains of Bonnyton held by Mr Alexander
M'Kay at a rent of £680. In Lundie the Earl of Camperdown is the
principal proprietor. On his lands in this parish extensive improvements
have been effected since 1850 in the way of reclaiming, draining,
fencing, and building, part being done by the proprietor and part by the
tenants.
Retracing our steps and proceeding eastwards we pass
through the parish of Monikie, in which the Earl of Dalhousie owns a
large extent of valuable well-farmed land, and in which a very large sum
has been expended on various agricultural improvements during the past
twenty-five years. Monikie extends to 9027 acres, and yields a rental of
£18,916, or more than £2 per acre. The increase since 1856 amounts to no
less than £10,505. The rental in 1683 was £4608 Scots. On the east of
Monikie lie the highly cultivated coast-side parishes of Barry, Panbride,
and Arbirlot, extending to 6155, 5506, and 6889 acres respectively, and
yielding respective rentals of £15,088, £11,419, and £10,895, Barry has
increased £7057 since 1856, or more than £1 per acre. A very large part
of this increase, however, is due to the rapid growth of the village of
Carnoustie, which has sprung up almost entirely within the last fourteen
years. The increase in the other two parishes amounts to over 10s. per
acre, the greater part of which is certainly due to the development of
the land. The principal property in this neighbourhood is that of
Panmure, owned by the Earl of Dalhousie, who is by far the largest
proprietor in the county. He owns several estates, situated chiefly in
this neighbourhood, around Brechin, and away up through the Grampian
range. According to the Return of Owners of Lands and Heritages in
1872-73, the total area of his property measures 136,602 acres, the
gross annual value being £55,601, 16s. The Panmure estate is one of the
most important. It extends into the parishes of Monifieth, Barry,
Monikie, Arbirlot, Carmyllie, St Vigeans, Inverkeillor, and Kinnell, all
lying along the east coast. Panmure House, a large palatial mansion, is
situated in the upper part of the parish of Panbride, about four miles
north-west from Carnoustie. The grounds are both extensive and
beautiful, while the gardens, which have a very fine situation, are kept
in excellent condition. The policies extend in all to 550 acres. The
Home Farm or Mains of Panmure, under the charge of Mr George Cowe,
Balhousie, consists of about 200 acres of arable land, worked on the
seven-course rotation, with two years grass. A large flock of half-bred
ewes and a smaller flock of Border Leicesters are kept on the farm,
while a good many cattle are also grazed and fed. A few cows are kept
for the supply of milk. Each autumn a lot of two-year-old cattle of the
best class that can be obtained are bought in and fed on turnips, straw,
and cake. They are generally sold off in spring, and for six weeks
before leaving, the allowance of cake is very liberal. The soil on the
Panmure estate varies from the richest to the poorest of loam, part
lying on a red sandstone subsoil, part on a hard irony pan, part on a
moderately open mixture of clay and gravel, and part on porous sand. The
poorest land lies in Carmyllie, and the richest a mile or two or more
from the sea side. On the greater part of the estate it is very good. On
the better soil the seven-shift rotation with wheat, potatoes, and two
years grass prevails. A few also work on the six courses. In the higher
lying districts and poorer soils the ordinary five or six-shift rotation
is pursued, no wheat and few potatoes being grown. Latterly, a good many
who formerly worked on the five-shift rotation have turned to the six.
The Panmure estate is very judiciously apportioned. It contains a good
many large farms, rented at from £500 to close on a £1000; a great many
medium sized farms rented from £100 to £300; and a very large number of
crofts or pendicles and small farms rented at from £4 to £60. In the
parish of Carmyllie alone there are over fifty pendicles. Twenty of
these are rented below £10 each, the lowest being £4 and the average
about £6 or £7. Nine pay between £20 and £40, and the others, on an
average, from £14 to £15. Generally speaking these small tenants occupy
the poorest land, that on the Carmyllie pendicles being thin "hungry"
loam lying close to a hard irony or rocky subsoil. The greater part of
it has been reclaimed, mostly within the last thirty years, by the
crofters themselves, who have no doubt made the district more productive
than larger tenants would have done. They cultivate their land well and
raise wonderful crops. They grow oats and turnips for the most part,
raising just as many potatoes as are required by the family. The smaller
tenants keep one cow each, and the larger ones two or more, the young
stock being sold when six, twelve, or eighteen months old. The class of
stock raised on. these pendicles is far superior to what it was some
fifteen or twenty years ago, and now they meet a ready sale among the
neighbouring larger farmers at good prices. The more industrious of
these crofters seem contented and comfortable. They maintain their
little places in the best of order, educate their families well, and in
not a few cases store up as much money as in course of time enables them
to step into larger and better holdings. One great advantage in having
these small tenancies on an estate is that they provide an excellent
supply of labour, an advantage which those having the management of the
Panmure property have evidently not failed to recognise. Pendicles have
been well named nurseries for farm servants. The rent per acre on the
Panmure estate varies greatly, according to the soil and situation. The
better land on the coast side is rented at from £2 to £3 per acre, while
in the poorer inland parts the rent falls to £1, and in some cases even
to 10s. There is also great variety in the yield of the different crops.
Wheat gives from 4 to 6½ qrs., weighing from
60 to 64 lbs. per bushel; barley from 5 to 6 qrs., weighing from 54 to
56 lbs.; oats from 4½ to 8 or even 9 qrs.,
weighing from 40 to 45 lbs.; potatoes from 5 to 12 tons; and turnips
from 14 to 25 tons. Since 1850 the increase in the rental of the Panmure
property has been great. At that time several of the best farms were
held at little more than nominal rents by life-renters; all of whom,
with one exception, had died prior to 1870. When brought into the market
these farms were readily let at greatly increased rents, one bringing
more that four times the sum paid by the life-renter. Other influences,
however, have helped the increase. Aided by the proprietor, the small
tenants in the higher parts have, within the last thirty years,
reclaimed over 500 acres from moor and moss. A large sum of money has
also been expended on drainage and building throughout the property
since about 1860, and, under wise direction, this expenditure has
resulted in substantial improvement. A good deal has likewise been done
in road making near Panmure House, while since about 1870 close on 700
acres of wood have been planted. Of these 200 acres were planted about
ten years ago; and form an addition to the Mansion House policies, the
greater part of which has recently been thoroughly drained. These 200
acres were fenced with a high stone wall.
Balhousie, tenanted by Mr George Cowe, is one of the
best managed farms on the Panmure estate. A large part of it has been
drained by himself; while it is cultivated and manured to the very
highest degree, producing abundant crops of all kinds. A choice small
flock of Border Leicesters is kept on the farm, while a number of
two-year-old cross cattle are bought in in autumn and fed during winter.
One of the largest and one of the best farms along the east coast of the
county is Pitskelly, leased by Mr F. Dickson at a rent of £1100. The
soil is mostly strong sound loam, not so stiff as some land on other
farms in the neighbourhood. Panlathie Mill, in the parish of Arbirlot,
is also very carefully and skilfully managed by its enterprising tenant;
Mr James Duncan. The soil, mostly black friable loam, is worked in the
six shift rotation. Wheat yields from 4 to 5 qrs., and weighs from 59 to
64 lbs.; barley 5 to 6 qrs., weighing from 49 to 55 lbs.; oats 6 to 7
qrs., weighing from 40 to 47 lbs.; potatoes 6 to 7 tons; turnips 14 to
18 tons; and hay from 1½ to 2½
tons per acre. Potatoes receive nearly all the manure that can be
made in covered courts, the litter grown on the farm being supplemented
by flax dust; and in addition to this 2 or 3 cwt. of artificial manure
is allowed to the acre. Turnips are generally manured with artificial
stuffs. Mr Duncan has long devoted special attention to the raising of
potatoes, in which he has been eminently successful. Latterly, he has
been conducting experiments in the producing of new varieties which
cannot fail to be of service to the country. Wheat is sown as soon as
the potatoes are got out of the ground, generally in November, and
sometimes in December. Harvesting of grain extends from the end of
August to the middle of October. Turnips are not as a rule stored in
large quantities, only as many being kept in store as would supply the
stock for a month or six weeks. A number of store cattle, generally
Irish stock, are bought in every year, and fed off at various times, on
turnips, straw, hay, cake, and meal. A few are fed in the courts in
summer on cut grass, cake, &c. With some assistance from the proprietor,
for which he pays from 5 to 6½ per cent.
interest, Mr Duncan has redrained nearly all his farm, and erected a new
dwelling-house, and the greater part of the farm steading. The farm of
Inverpeffer, occupied by Mr James Swan, and rented at £645, 10s., lies
in a detached portion of the parish of St Vigeans, adjoining Panbride,
and is also on the Panmure estate. This farm extends to about 420 acres,
300 of which are arable, the remainder being rough pasture on sea-braes.
The soil varies a good deal. About 100 acres are good fertile clayey
loam, a like extent easier black loam, somewhat liable to damage by
drought in dry seasons ; and the other 100 acres drifting sand and
moorish soil. For fifteen years Mr Swan worked the best land in the
seven course rotation, and the poorest in six shifts, three years in
grass with only one green crop. The thinner land was for a time tried
with two green crops after three years grass, and also after two years
in grass; and now the whole farm is worked in seven shifts. In one
division of the farm, potatoes are grown after two years old grass, and
are followed by wheat, oats, turnips, and barley or oats in succession.
This course has been adopted with the view of keeping the land free from
weeds, and of preventing the oat crop from lodging, which it invariably
did, after two years feeding with cake on the pastures. Wheat yields
from 4 to 7 qrs. per acre, weighing from 56 to 63 lbs. per bushel;
barley from 4 to 9 qrs., weighing from 47 to 57 lbs.; oats from 6 to 12
qrs., weighing from 40 to 44 lbs.; potatoes from 2 to 10 tons; and
turnips from 10 to 30 tons. In a very exceptional season, as many as 40
tons of turnips per acre have been grown on this farm. Mr Swan keeps an
excellent stock of cross cows, and from these and well bred shorthorn
bulls rears a class of beef cattle not surpassed by any and equalled by
few in the county. He also has a few pure bred shorthorn cows. He feeds
his crosses from birth onwards, taking care to maintain them in a
healthy condition, and constantly adding both to their size and cover of
flesh. The cattle are sold to the butcher when two or two and a half
years old, and on an average for ten years have realised from £24 to £36
a head. Cotton cake is the chief auxiliary during the greater part of
the feeding period, linseed or beans or both being given for a month or
six weeks before the cattle are sold. About 180 or 200 blackfaced ewes,
obtained from the same glen for fifteen years, are purchased in October,
and from these and the best of Clark and Stark tups, a very fine stock
of half-bred lambs are raised. The lambs are fed on undecorticated
cotton cake till from eleven to thirteen months old, and then disposed
of. The average price for ten years has been 58s. a head. Mr Swan has
effected great improvement on his farm since his entry in 1860. In
buildings, draining, fencing, and road making he has expended in all
£3500. For improvements in 1868 he obtained
£600 at 7 per cent. interest, and £400 in 1877—78 at 5 per cent. The
farm is now well appointed in almost every respect. Each field is
supplied with water, while there is a sufficiency of cottage
accommodation for the servants.
Along the coast here there are many other farms well worthy of
special notice, it would be but repetition, however, to detail the
system pursued on many more.
Proceeding northwards along the coast towards the
thriving town of Arbroath, we pass a number of large well-managed farms,
on which the seven-shift rotation is for the most part pursued. One of
the best managed and most widely known farms in the neighbourhood of
Arbroath is Mains of Kelly, tenanted by Mr Alexander Bowie, the eminent
breeder of polled cattle. Mr Bowie is a distinguished general farmer as
well as a cattle breeder. He. has conducted many experiments on the
growing of grain from thick and thin sowing, and under other
circumstances. He uses remarkably little seed (about 2 bushels per
imperial acre), and grows beautiful crops of all kinds of grain.
Continuing our northern route, we pass through the
parishes of St Vigeans, Inverkeillor, Lunan, Maryton, and Craig, and
halt at Montrose. These parishes extend respectively to 13,143, 10,516,
1981, and 3686 acres; and in each there has been a substantial increase
in the rental since 1856, though not so much as in some other parishes
in the county. The increase in St Vigeans, Inverkeillor, and Craig is
equal to about 6s. per acre of the total extent, and in the other two
about 1s. less. A leading farmer in Craig states that the soil in his
district is mostly black loam on trap, or "scurdy" rock. The cropping is
pursued in six and seven shifts. Wheat yields about 4½
or 5 qrs., weighing 62 lbs. per bushel; barley 5½
qrs., weighing 54 lbs.; oats 6 to 6½ qrs.,
weighing 42 lbs.; potatoes about
6 tons; and turnips from 15 to 24 tons per acre.
Potatoes are usually manured with court-made dung, while turnips get
dung and from 3 to 5 cwt. of artificial manure per acre. Spring sowing
commences about the 18th of March, turnip sowing about the 10th of May,
and harvesting about the 1st of September. There is very little
difference in the system of farming pursued now and twenty-five years
ago. In the system of cropping, the only difference is that no fallow
wheat is now grown. Twenty-five years ago most of the farmers in this
district bred their own cattle. Now they depend chiefly on Irish stock,
which they buy in young, from a year to eighteen months old, at from £7
to £17 a head, and which they feed on turnips and cake or meal. The
majority go to the London and Glasgow markets when two or three years
old. The greater portion of the land has been redrained since 1850,
mainly by money advanced on interest by the proprietors. Farm houses
are, as a rule, good, and the supply of water sufficient, but fencing is
scarce. Rent ranges on an average from 50s. to 60s. per acre. On the
large farms of Gilchorn and Cauldcots, on the Anniston
estate, in the parish of Inverkeillor, and occupied
respectively by Mr James Bell and Mr John B. Bell, and on the extensive
holdings of East Newton and Rosehill, on the Northesk estate, in the
adjoining parish of St Vigeans, and held respectively by Mr E. J.
Donaldson and George Miln, steam cultivation has been pursued jointly
for several years with success.
Reversing our course, we proceed westwards along the
valley of Strathmore, first passing through the parishes of Farnell and
Kinnell. These parishes have hardly forty farms between them, and yet
the former has a rental of £7379, and the latter of £7862. Since 1856,
the one has increased by £1687, and the other £2182. The whole of
Farnell belongs to the Earl of Southesk, whose estate is one of the most
compact and desirable in the county, extending, as it does, to 22,525
acres, and bringing an annual rental of £21,811. Of the fourteen farms
in Farnell, four exceed £700 in rental, while two exceed £1000— East and
West Carcary, leased by Mr Robert Lyall at £1078, and Fithie, rented by
Mr David Mitchell at £1008. Lord Southesk is also the largest proprietor
in Kinnell, in which the Earl of Dalhousie, as already mentioned, also
owns a large extent of good land. The soil in this district is mostly a
clayey loam, in parts rather stiff and in others of a moorish texture.
The subsoil is chiefly clay, mixed with gravel, and resting on the Old
Red Sandstone. On the higher parts whinstone shoots up here and there to
within a few inches of the surface. On the richer land the seven-course
rotation is pursued, but on the thinner soils, and where it is not
convenient to grow potatoes, the five-shift rotation prevails. By not a
few farmers the six-shift is now preferred. Only a small extent of land
has been reclaimed in this district since 1850, but draining and
building have been carried on largely; while since wire-fencing was
introduced a good deal has been done in enclosing land. In the latter
respect, however, there is still much to do. The draining has been done
chiefly by government money, for which the tenants are usually charged a
percentage sufficient to cover the interest on the loan and repay the
principal. In some cases proprietors have given money for draining for
interest only. There have been few changes of much importance in the
system of farming in this district during the last twenty-five years.
For some time the practice of letting turnips to be consumed on the land
by sheep has been prevalent. It is the opinion of experienced farmers
that more profit is derived from the crop in this way than if cattle
were brought in and fed upon it. The average rent of the land in this
district affords no real criterion of the agricultural value of the
different classes of soil, for on almost every farm there is a portion
of poor land worth little per acre. The average rental per acre is thus
reduced far below the value of the really good land. Bolshan, occupied
by Mr Goodlet, is one of the largest and one of the best managed farms
in the county. Situated in the parish of Kinnell, on a slope facing
south-west, it extends to 690 acres, of which 670 are under cultivation,
the remainder consisting mostly of wood pasture. Mr Goodlet took the
farm by public competition, paying a large increase on the former rent,
while on the renewal of the lease in 1866 he paid a further advance,
making the total increase on the rent since 1847 70 per cent. The soil
consists of a clayey loam of a moorish texture on the west, where it
adjoins the moorside, and runs into stiffish clay on the south-east. The
whole farm lies on a clay bottom, overlying the sandstone formation,
with protruding pieces of whinstone on the heights. On 280 acres the
seven-course rotation is pursued, and on 330 acres the five-shift, with
one green crop and two grasses, while the remaining 60 acres are allowed
to lie in pasture, being broken up at intervals and sown down again.
Wheat yields on an average 4 qrs., weighing 58 to 62 lbs.; barley 5
qrs.; oats close on 6 qrs.; turnips from 18 to 25 tons; potatoes from 4
to 9 tons; and hay from 200 to 300 stones per acre. Only as much hay is
grown as is sufficient to supply the farm horses and sheep, the rest of
the young grass being pastured mostly by sheep. The root crops get from
twelve to fifteen cart loads of farm-yard manure, and 4 or 5 cwt. of
guano and other light manures per acre. Guano has been used latterly on
account of Mr Goodlet's having found that his cold-bottomed land was not
much benefited by the superphosphates and other artificial compounds
which he had tried. For a number of years he has obtained large
quantities of Aberdeen city manure for mixing with his farm-yard manure,
and from this he has found more benefit than from any quantity of light
manures he has ever used. The grass lands in particular, which were
formerly poor, have improved very much under this treatment. From 120 to
130 cattle are kept during winter. The majority are bought in, but a few
are bred on the farm from cross cows and a well-bred shorthorn bull. The
two and three-year-old cattle, which make up three-fourths or more of
the lot, are fed on turnips, cakes, and crushed grain, and sold as they
become "ripe." The three-year-olds weigh on an average, when sold, from
48 to 54 stones (Dutch), and the two-year-olds from 40 to 44 stones.
About 50 young cattle and cows are grazed during summer. In addition to
the cattle stock, a large and very good flock of Border Leicester sheep
are kept. To these we shall refer again. Since his entry Mr Goodlet has
effected great improvement on the farm, not only in the land, but also
in the houses and other respects. When he obtained possession the land
was run out and full of weeds, and for a number of years he had to farm
the whole in the five-shift rotation. He afterwards for a time pursued
the seven-shift system alone, but finding potatoes a risky crop, he
adopted the present system in order to reduce the area under potatoes
and increase the extent under grass. Since his entry in 1847 he has
tile-drained upwards of 200 acres to a depth of from 2½
to 4 feet. The landlord built a range of covered cattle-courts,
repaired and made alterations on the farm-steading, and erected two new
cottages to replace old ones. He also put an addition to the
dwelling-house, and built other two cottages, for the outlay on which Mr
Goodlet paid interest at the rate of 3 per cent., performing all the
carriages over and above. Eight married ploughmen reside in cottages,
and five unmarried men in a "bothy," in which there is a separate
bed-closet for each, and a sitting room, and scullery or pantry for
general use. The "bothy" is cleaned out daily, and the beds made by a
woman paid for the purpose. The farm is conveniently laid out in finely
shaped fields, well fenced with dykes and hedges, with rows of trees
here and there, and is altogether one of the most beautifully situated
holdings in the county.
Continuing westwards we pass through the parishes of
Guthrie, Kirkden, and Rescobie, and rest in Forfar. These parishes
extend respectively to 3824, 5018, 6724, and
8379 acres; and since 1856 the rental of the first two and the last one
has increased by about 10s. per acre of the total extent, and that of
Rescobie by about 6s. per acre. In each there are several large
well-cultivated farms, and a pretty large extent of good soil. The
largest holding is the combined farms of East and West Carsebank, held,
along with another adjoining farm, by Mr Patrick Fair-weather, and
rented at £1285. Situated in the parish of Res-eobie, this fine farm
extends to 650 acres arable and 22 acres under pasture. The soil is dark
brown loam, with good " body." During the first twelve years of the
lease he had liberty to farm in any rotation wished, provided always
that he worked the land in accordance with the rules of good husbandry.
During the remainder of the lease he was bound to have the land in the
seven-shift rotation. Wheat gave on an average 4 qrs. or a little more
per acre, weighing 61 lbs. per bushel; barley 5½
qrs., weighing 54 lbs.; oats 6 qrs. or a little more, weighing 42
lbs.; Regent and other early varieties of potatoes 6 tons, Champions and
other late kinds 8 tons; turnips from 20 to 25 tons; and hay about 2
tons per acre. One half of the turnip break gets twelve loads of dung
and a mixture of artificial manure, generally guano, superphosphate, and
dissolved bones, to the value of 40s. per acre. The other half receives
a mixture of artificial manure to the value of from £3, 5s. to £3, 10s.
per acre. Potatoes get twenty loads of dung per acre, and a small
quantity of artificial manure above the dung to start the plants, the
value of the doze of light manure being about 25s. or 30s. per acre. Of
late years potatoes have sometimes been grown after lea, and in that
case no dung is given, a mixture of light manure being left to do the
work itself. This mixture usually consists of woollen manure, dissolved
bones, superphosphates, guano, and potash, and when given to the value
of about £4 per acre invariably produces an excellent crop, generally
less damaged by disease than when dung is applied in the ordinary way.
Autumn wheat is sown as soon as the potatoes are lifted, commencing
about the end of October, and continuing till the first of January when
the weather is suitable. Harvest usually commences about the end of
August or first of September. A mixed stock of cattle and sheep are kept
in this district, a large number being fed off every year. Most of the
cattle are bought in at the auction marts at Dundee, Perth, or Forfar.
Very few are bred in the district. A good many farmers within the last
few years have returned to the old-fashioned mode of cropping, which
leaves a greater area under grass, and also lessens the manure bills.
There being much variety of land in this district, it is difficult to
arrive at a correct estimate of the average rental. It cannot be far
wrong, however, to put it at 30s. per acre. Mr Fair-weather took his
holding ten years ago at a rent of 50s. per acre. It has now been let to
a new tenant at 37s. 6d. per acre, the proprietor undertaking to rebuild
all the fence-dykes and erect new steadings free of interest, the tenant
performing all the carriages. One of the best holdings in the Guthrie
district is that of the combined farms of Newton of Guthrie and
Drumhead, held by Mr John Ramsay at a rent of £615. They extend to 378
acres, all arable. The soil is free black loam, with clayey subsoil on
three-fourths and gravel on the remainder. The better land is worked in
the seven-shift rotation, and the poorer fields in the "easy sixes,"
that is, three years grass, two grain crops, and one green crop. Barley
in this district yields from 4½ to 5 qrs. per
acre, weighing 54 lbs. per bushel; oats about 6 qrs., weighing 42 lbs.;
potatoes from 5 to 7 tons; turnips 20 to-30 tons; and hay about 200
stones of 22 lbs. As a rule potatoes get all
or nearly all the farm-yard manure, turnips getting town manure and
artificial mixtures, usually guano, superphosphates, and bone meal, to
the value of about £3, 10s. per acre. Harvest generally commences in
this district about the 20th of August. Mr Ramsay keeps a stock of 70 or
80 cattle. He rears about 20 calves every year, and buys in the
remainder at the principal county markets. They are kept mostly on
turnips and straw. When potatoes are cheap a few are given to the
cattle, while to finish off from 4 to 6 lbs. of linseed cake are allowed
per day. Mr Ramsay has not for a long time made any alteration in the
system of cropping. As is the case in the district generally, the cattle
he feeds are larger and finer than twenty-five years ago, while they are
also fed off more quickly. He now buys in two-year-olds instead of
yearlings as formerly. Since he entered,, twenty-eight years ago, he has
effected considerable improvement both in the drainage and manurial
condition of the land. The rent of land in this district ranges on the
average from 25s. to 40s. per acre.
On the west of Forfar lie the Earl of Strathmore's
Glamis estates, which form one of the choicest blocks of landed property
in the country. Compactly and beautifully situated in the very heart of
Strathmore, this property comprises 16,850 acres of arable land, 4000 of
natural pasture, and 2000 under wood, making in all 22,850 acres. The
gross rental amounts to £25,000, and the average rental of the arable
land 27s. per acre. The increase during the past twenty-five years is
about 10 per cent. Since about 1860 very extensive improvements have
been carried out on this property, involving an outlay of over £43,000
exclusive of from £150 to £180 expended every year on planting for some
time back. Between 1862 and 1870 about 200 acres of woodland, mostly
near Glamis station, have been reclaimed at a cost of about £15 per
acre. The land was drained and trenched by spade, and for two years
cropped with potatoes, stimulated by artificial manure, costing about £3
per acre. Both crops did well, and each sold for £15 per acre, thus in
two years doubling the cost of reclaiming the land, less the outlay in
raising the crops. One crop of grain followed, the land being sown down
with grasses, fenced and planted with Scotch fir, larch, oak,, spruce,
and other varieties. The soil on the lower lying portion of the
reclaimed land is thin, sandy loam, but on the slopes it is a good black
loam, lying on Red Sandstone. The greater part of the 200 acres was
reclaimed by the proprietor himself; about 40 or 50 acres being let free
of rent for four years to a contractor who trenched the land, and
drained part of it, the proprietor supplying tiles. During the four
years he was allowed to crop the land in any way he pleased. Almost
every year since 1860 some building, fencing, and draining has been
going on on the property. As leases have expired the land has been
drained and fenced where necessary, and new houses built, or the old
ones repaired, according to their condition. In the course of the next
three years the whole of the estate will have been gone over in this
way; and, judging from the portion finished, it will by that time be in
a condition equalled by few, and, perhaps, surpassed by none in the
county. Covered courts are erected on every farm, and the steadings in
all other respects made commodious, substantial, and convenient. The
dwelling-houses of the tenants are also made large and handsome, while
the supply of servants' cottages is being completed. In the building of
new houses alone about £20,000 has been | |