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Transactions of the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland
The Agriculture of Lanarkshire |
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By James Tait, 4 Argyll Crescent, Joppa, Midlothian.
[Premium—Forty Sovereigns.]
The county of Lanark, sometimes designated
Clydesdale, is bounded on the east by the counties of West and Mid
Lothian and Peebles, on the south by the county of Dumfries, on the west
by the counties of Ayr and Renfrew, and on the north by those of
Dumbarton and Stirling. Its greatest length from north to south is about
47 miles, and its width from east to west about 32 miles. According to
the agricultural returns issued by the Board of Trade the area of the
county is 568,840 acres; and in extent of surface it is exceeded only by
those of Aberdeen, Argyll, Ayr, Dumfries, Inverness, Perth, Ross and
Cromarty, and Sutherland. Its gross annual value, exclusive of the
municipal borough of Glasgow, as given in the Return of Lands and
Heritages in Scotland, 1872-73, was £1,736,268,
7s., inclusive of Glasgow it was
£4,078,434, which is pretty
nearly thrice the valuation of any other Scottish county. The gross
annual value of Edinburghshire at the same date was £581,603, 6s.,
exclusive of Edinburgh and Leith; including these municipal boroughs the
total valuation of the county was £1,547,435. The next highest is
Perthshire, with a valuation of £959,364, 18s. In 1883-84 the valuation
of Lanarkshire was £2,211,444, 15s. 7d,, an increase of £66,991, 17s.
5d. on the previous year. The census returns for 1881 give the area of
Lanarkshire as 564,284 acres, divided into 41 parishes, besides
fractions of others. There were 180,259 inhabited houses, 193,731
separate families, and 904,412 inhabitants. Of the population 770,314
were resident in towns, 72,197 in villages, and 61,901 in
rural districts. The county contained 1076 persons to every square mile.
Next in density of population were the shires of Edinburgh and Dumfries
each containing 1075 persons to the square mile. Then conies Clackmannan
with 539. The lowest in the scale is Sutherland with 12 persons to the
square mile, and it is followed by Inverness with 22, Argyle 24, Ross
and Cromarty 25, and Peebles 39. The next county to Lanarkshire in
respect of population is Edinburgh, with an area of 231,724 acres, and a
population of 389,164. In 1S71 there were, in Lanarkshire, 147,962
inhabited houses, and 765,339 of a population. In 1861 the population
was 631,566, showing an increase of 272,846 in twenty years. For
parliamentary purposes the county consists of a northern and a southern
division, of which the former is at present represented by Sir T. E.
Colebrooke, Bart., and the latter by J. G. Hamilton, Esq., of Dalziell.
The city of Glasgow has three representatives; and, in the county, there
are the burghs of Rutherglen, which forms one of the Kilmarnock group,
and Airdrie, Hamilton, and Lanark, which are joined to Linlithgow and
Falkirk. For administrative purposes the county is divided into upper,
middle, and lower wards. The upper ward comprehends the twenty parishes
of Carluke, Lanark, Carstairs, Carnwath, Dunsyre, Dolphinton, Walston,
Biggar, Libberton, Lamington, Culter, Crawford, Crawfordjohn, Douglas,
Roberton, Symington, Covington, Pettinain, Carmichael, and Lesmahagow.
The middle ward includes the parishes of Dalserf, Stonehouse, Avon-dale,
Glassford, East Kilbride, Cambusnethan, Shotts, New and Old Monkland,
Hamilton, Bothwell, and Blantyre. The lower ward, lying immediately
around the city of Glasgow, contains Carmunnock, Cambuslang, Rutherglen,
Cadder, Govan, part of Cathcart, and the Barony parish.
Towns.
Glasgow is situated on both banks of the Clyde, in
the parishes of Barony and Govan, with a very small portion of Cathcart.
The Barony parish contains 14,926 acres, and Govan 6733; and the census
returns for the two parishes give the following results:—

These figures include the landward part of the
parishes, and the following give the population of the city for the past
thirty years.

The population of the registration districts was
491,846 in 1871, and 511,532 in 1881. The Barony parish includes the
districts of Maryhill, Shettleston, and Springburn, besides the Barony
proper. Maryhill is partly mineral, agricultural, and commercial. It
includes the town of Maryhill, peopled chiefly by work people, in the
different foundries. The locomotive works of the North British Railway
Company are situated at Cowlairs, in the Springburn district; and the
Saracen Foundry at Possil, equi-distant between Maryhill and Springburn,
employs a large number of hands. A new suburb of Glasgow has sprung up
here, called Possil Park. Military barracks were erected on the banks of
the Kelvin four or five years since; and in these palatial buildings,
Her Majesty's troops are quartered in the order of service. Maryhill was
erected into a police burgh in 1856, and has made rapid progress. The
population of the burgh was 3717 in 1861, in 1871 it was 6659, and in
1881 it had risen to 18,386. In the city portion of the parish, great
changes have been made during the past thirty years. Many old historic
buildings and streets have been removed. Twenty years ago it was found
to be necessary, in the interests of the public health, for the
corporation to purchase, demolish, and rearrange many streets in which
sanitary arrangements could not be carried out. To meet the demand for
house accommodation caused by these changes, new houses were built in
the suburbs. The railway system has tended to promote many changes. The
City Union Railway opened up the dingy quarters of the Briggate, where a
palatial railway station now stands. The Caledonian Railway Company, by
their new line across the river, have removed a once notable business
street. Gallowgate has been almost rebuilt, and the Stobcross Railway,
in the west end, opens up further possibilities of change in that
quarter. The towns in the Barony parish do not now appear distinct from
the city, and their final absorption into one great city under one
municipal authority is probably only a question of time. The parish of
Govan, situated on both sides of the Clyde, is notable for shipbuilding.
Two considerable towns have grown up within the past quarter of a
century, chiefly sustained by that industry. In 1851, the joint
population of Govan, on the south bank of the river, and Partick on the
north, was 3131; in 1861 the population of Govan alone was 7637; in 1871
it had risen to 19,899; and in 1881 to 51,783. In 1861 the population of
Partick was 8183; in 1871 it had risen to 23,837; and in 1881 to 38,985.
South of the Clyde, and on the borders of Renfrew-shire, are the
suburban districts of Pollokshields, Crossbill, Govanhill, and Langside,
which are chiefly inhabited by Glasgow business men. Public parks have
long been a feature of the city. The oldest is Glasgow Green, situated
to the east of the city, on the river banks. At the opposite end of
Glasgow is the West End Park, traversed by the Kelvin, overlooked by the
university, and ornamented with a fountain to commemorate the
introduction into the city of a water supply from Loch Katrine. The town
council have likewise acquired the Botanic Gardens, in the aristocratic
suburb of Billhead; and the Kibble Palace and Winter Garden are situated
there. The Alexandra Park is at the north-east corner of the city in the
Dennistoun district; and in the centre of Crosshill and Langside is the
South Side Park, the site of which is incomparably superior to any of
the others. It would be difficult if not impossible to describe in brief
compass the industries of Glasgow and the enterprise of its merchants,
all dependent more or less directly on the Clyde navigation, itself a
gigantic undertaking. In a paper read at the Naval and Marine
Engineering Exhibition, in 1881, Mr James Deas, C.E., described "the
character and magnitude of those works which have, within the last
hundred years or so, converted the Clyde between Glasgow and the sea
from a shallow stream, navigable only by fishing wherries of at most 4
or 5 feet draft, and fordable even 12 miles below Glasgow, to a great
channel of the sea, bearing on its waters the ships of all nations, and
of the deepest draft, bringing to this city of the west the fruits and
ores of Spain; the wines of Portugal and France; the palm oil and ivory
of Africa; the teas, spices, cotton, and jute of India; the teas of
China; the cotton, cattle, corn, flour, beef, timber,—even doors and
windows ready made,— and the numerous notions of America; the corn of
Egypt and Russia; the flour and wines of Hungary; the sugar, teak, and
mahogany of the West Indies; the wools and preserved meats and gold of
the Great Australian colonies; the food supplies of the sister isle; and
the thousands of other things which go to make up the imports of the two
mile-long harbour of Glasgow (which, until a few years ago, was simply
the river Clyde itself), lined on both sides with wharfs and quays, and
carrying away to India and our colonies—even to Fiji, and to every
foreign land—the varied products of this great city and the whole south
and west of Scotland, from the coal and iron of our mines to the finest
products of our looms and the most improved types of our varied
machinery." Eighty years ago the quayage of the harbour was only 382
lineal yards long, the area of the harbour 4 acres, the revenue of the
Clyde Trust £3400, the customs revenue £427 and the population of the
city 77,385; in 1880 the length of quayage was 4 miles and 382 yards,
the area of the harbour 120 acres, the revenue £223,709, the customs
revenue £956,620, and the population computed at 578,156. "The deepening
and widening of the Clyde have increased the value of the lands on its
sides through Glasgow and seaward a hundred-fold, created the burghs of
Govan, Partick, and the various other burghs that environ Glasgow, given
wealth to thousands, and the means of life to hundreds of thousands;"
and the expenditure up to 30th June 1880 has been £8,786,128, of which
£2,306,766 was paid for interest on borrowed money. The other burghs in
the county contributing to send members to Parliament are Lanark,
Hamilton, Airdrie, and Rutherglen; the burghs of barony are Strathaven,
Biggar, and East Kilbride. The villages and populous places are many.
Estates and Cropping.
From the return of owners of lands and heritages in
Scotland, 1872-73, it appeared there were, outside the municipal
boundaries of Glasgow, 9117 proprietors in the county, of whom 1890
possessed one acre or upwards, and possessed altogether 549,232 acres at
a valued rental of £1,284,592, 18s.; while 7227 owners of less than one
acre had altogether 3865 acres at a gross annual rental of £451,675, 9s.
Inside the municipal boundaries there were 310 owners of one acre or
upwards, who had 3011 acres at a gross annual value of £628,374, 6s.,
and 10,681 owners of less than one acre, who had altogether 2811 acres,
at a gross annual value of £1,713,789, 14s. In all there were within the
municipal boundaries 10,991 owners of 4822 acres, at a gross annual
value of £2,342,164. The municipal boundaries were extended in 1872, and
again in 1878. As might naturally be expected, the rent of land in
different districts varies extremely. In upland parishes land may be
seen at a rent of half a crown to five shillings an acre; in other
places it rents at £6 an acre; while in some localities an acre of land
yields a handsome revenue. Mr Alexander Aikman, Holland Bush, Hamilton,
is entered in the parliamentary return as owner of one acre, which is
rented at £132; and the Airdrie Gas Company is represented as owning one
acre at a value of £700 a year. Within the municipal boundaries of
Glasgow values are much higher. Mr James Arthur, Queen Street, is owner
of an acre which yields the magnificent income of £6923, 10s. a year.
From three acres Sir James Campbell of Stracathro, has £12,912, 5s. of
yearly income. Mr George Martin, 141 St Vincent Street, is on the roll
as owner of one acre, of which the rental is £3928, 10s., other
proprietors of a single acre have from £1000 to £3000 of yearly income.
It will be observed that a large proportion of the
land in the county is owned by proprietors of one acre or upward; and it
may be added that three-fourths of the land are owned by very large
proprietors, while the remainder is parcelled out into moderate or small
holdings. The most extensive landowner is the Earl of Home, Bothwell
Castle, who has 61,943 acres, at a rental of £24,770, besides £4716 for
minerals. The aggregate rent of land in this estate seems to be hardly
8s. an acre. Next in magnitude is the Duke of Hamilton, with 47,731
acres and a rental of £38,441, amounting to fully 16s. 9d. an acre,
besides £56,920, 14s. for minerals. Sir Simon Macdonald Lockhart, Bart.,
of Lee and Carnwath, has 31,556 acres at a rental of £21,050, or fully
13s. 4d. an acre, and £869 for minerals. Sir T. E. Colebrooke, Bart.,
M.P., Abington House, has 29,604 acres at a
rental of £2282 a year, or nearly 7s. an acre. The Earl of Hopetoun,
Leadhills and district, has 19,180 acres, at a rent of £3246, or 3s. 4d.
an acre, and £2246 for minerals. Sir Windham C. J. Carmichael Anstruther,
Bart., Carmichael House, Lanark, has 13,624 acres at a rent of £9228,
and £722 for minerals. Lord Lamington, Lamington House, Biggar, has
10,833 acres, with a rental of £5539, and £788 for minerals. The Duke of
Buccleuch and Queensberry has 9091 acres at a rent of £1544; Colonel D.
C. R. C. Buchanan of Drumpellier, 8549 acres at a rent of £8693, 12s,
and £15,180, 9s. for minerals; R. W. Ewart of Allershaw, Crawford
parish, 8485 acres at £1575; W. E. Hope Vere of Blackwood, Lesmahagow,
6863 acres at £5522, with £5781 for minerals; Mrs Louisa Catterson of
Birkcleuch, Abington, 6870 acres at £1562; William Bertram of Kersewell,
Carnwath, 5863 acres at £2893; the Earl of Eglinton and Winton, 5866
acres at £4097; the trustees of the late Sir W. Stirling Maxwell, Bart.,
Cadder estate, 5691 acres at £8741, with £3231 for minerals; J. W.
Baillie of Culterallers, 4510 acres at £1826; James S. Lockhart of
Castlehill, Carluke, 4422 acres at £5250, and £2183 for minerals. In
addition there are two others who own 4000 acres or upwards,
five others own 3000 acres or upwards, sixteen who own 2000 acres
or upwards, and others of smaller extent. In the county, but especially
in some of the large parishes in the upper ward, there are many small
proprietors, most o£ whom farm their own lands.
According to the agricultural returns issued by the
Board of Trade, the county contains 568,840 acres, of which in 1882
there were 251,121 acres under crops, bare fallow, and grass. Under corn
there were 52,929 acres, of which 3592 were under wheat, 874 barley or
bere, 46,905 oats, 39 rye, 1489 beans, and 30 under peas. Green crop
covered 18,796 acres, of which 7669 were potatoes, 9151 turnips and
swedes, 20 mangold, 51 carrots, 536 cabbage, kohl-rabi, and rape, and
1369 vetches and other green
crops except clover or grass. Of clover, sanfoin, and
grasses under rotation there were 64,713 acres, and of permanent
pasture, or grass not broken up in rotation (exclusive of heath or
mountain land) 113,989 acres. There were 11 acres of flax, and 683 of
bare fallow, or uncropped arable land. Of horses (including ponies) as
returned by occupiers of land, there were 5666 used solely for the
purpose of agriculture &c, and 1944 unbroken horses and mares kept
solely for breeding. There were 64,850 cattle, including 34,483 cows and
heifers in milk or in calf, and of other cattle 10,785 of two years old
and upwards, and 69,582 under two years of age. There were 210,322
sheep, of which 131,046 were one year old and above, and 79,282 under
one year old. There were 7637 pigs.
Geology.
Taking the granite rocks of Galloway as the base,
there are superimposed over them the greywacke and trap which prevail on
the Leadhills and the district adjoining. The pastures of Crawford
parish, chiefly those rocks, thinly covered with soil, are of good
quality, consisting of sweet and nutritious grass. At Roberton there is
a transition to the rocks of the lowland district. About Thankerton are
gravel mounds; and extending in the direction of Biggar is a plain so
little elevated above the level of the Clyde that not much labour would
send that river in the direction of the Tweed. From the western margin
of this plain the Clyde turns north-westward, gently flowing in a wide
valley, across a series of igneous rocks, belonging to the Old Red
Sandstone, which is conspicuous about Tinto. On either side hills rise
with gentle acclivity, those on the south side tending in the direction
of the trap and greywacke, those on the north approaching the great
Lanarkshire coalfield. At Bonnington begin the falls of the Clyde, and,
in a defile through the Old Red Sandstone, the river brawls along for
three or four miles till it tumbles over the last fall at Stonebyres.
From the top of the highest fall to the bottom of the lowest the river
descends 230 feet within a distance of little more than 3½
miles, whereas the fall is only 270 feet in the whole distance of fully
50 miles from Stonebyres to Dumbarton. From Stonebyres downward the
valley broadens, and the course of the river is through the great
coalfield which is the source of industry and wealth to the county. The
coal formation of the middle and lower wards includes bituminous shale,
coal, grey limestone, and clay ironstone, over which there are, in some
places, beds of freestone.
Soil, Climate, &c.
In the report of the Agricultural Commission, 1881,
Mr Hope, one of the Assistant Commissioners, says of the county— " About
one-third under cultivation, remainder unproducing mountain and moorland;
central and western parts generally cold and clayey, with tracts of bog.
South-east part, the soil is light and open, but, from its height,
exposed to frosts. The agriculture is excellent, especially on the banks
of the Clyde." (Report, p. 511). In the upland parishes of
Crawford and Crawfordjohn, as well as the greater part of Lamington and
Culter, the land is high and steep, much of it not susceptible of
agricultural improvement. Three-fourths of Douglas and Les-mahagow
parishes on the one side and of Dunsyre on the other are either moorish,
heathy land, or covered with beds of peat earth, yielding little useful
herbage. Considerable tracts in the parishes of Carluke, Lanark,
Carnwath, Dolphinton, and Biggar are of a similar character. Near the
Clyde it is different even in the upper ward, and there are fertile
districts in all the parishes. In Wiston, Symington, Culter, Biggar,
Covington, Libberton, and Carstairs is a good deal of light, sharp,
turnip and potato soil, which yields excellent crops of these and of
grain coming to maturity about the beginning of September. Some of the
meadows by the river side are exceedingly fertile. In the parishes of
Lanark and Lesmahagow the greater part of the arable land is dry, light,
and friable, but in the latter parish there is clay near the Clyde, some
of which is covered with orchards, and in Lanark there are clay
districts, while the moors are a hard till. Old Red Sandstone is the
prevailing rock. Carluke parish is pervaded, with trifling exceptions,
by a dense blue clay, assuming a reddish appearance in some places,
containing boulders of every size, and from almost every description of
rock, and the soil partakes largely of the same ingredient, acted upon
and altered by the atmosphere, by heat, moisture, and the operations of
the agriculturist. When the rocks crop through this alluvial matter the
soil partakes of the character of the underlying strata, and is
arenaceous over freestone, white or slightly grey earth over fire-clay
or shale, and sometimes a red colour over ironstone. On the Old Led
Sandstone in the southeast of the parish the soil is light, and free in
great measure from clay. Peat soil occurs in different parts of the
parish, but chiefly in the north-west. It overlies the alluvium, except
where limestone and freestone crop out.
In the middle ward the soil varies, but is generally
of a clayey character, a good deal of it with a hard clay bottom
inclined to till; but there are occasional patches of sand or gravel. In
Avondale the soil is light, and is capable of great improvement. The
rocks belong to the coal formation of the second class; and coal, iron,
and especially lime are abundant. Strathaven Moss, extending
to about 200 acres was, half a century ago, utterly worthless;
but it has been drained, and is now yielding splendid crops, some of it
paying £4 of yearly rent per acre. In Stonehouse parish the soil is
generally good. In Dalserf the soil is not well adapted for green crops,
except a tract near the banks of the Clyde, and some patches on the
Avon. Wheat and oats are the principal crops, and turnips were not grown
till within the past few years. Very few sheep are kept, and the chief
industry is dairy farming for the manufacture of butter and cheese. In
Glassford parish there are moss, clay, and light loam. Above 400 acres
of moss are not considered arable; but in a few years this tract may be
under cultivation. In Blantyre parish are mineral deposits, consisting
of coal, freestone, and limestone. At the northern extremity, where the
banks of the Clyde are low, there is an expanse of sandy soil, but
farther east it is strong, deep clay. Toward the south of the parish
there is clay, more light and free than in other parts, but generally
poor in quality. At the south end of the parish is a deep peat moss; and
there are 500 acres of waste and pasture; the remainder is all arable.
Along the west of Both-well, and extending into several adjoining
parishes, is a stratum of new or upper red sandstone. This rock is of a
bright, red colour, sometimes soft and friable, but generally compact
and well adapted for building purposes. Coal abounds everywhere in the
parish, but in the lower division lies at too great a depth to be worked
at present. The coalfield at Law has been estimated to be 53,000 acres
in extent. Iron and limestone abound in the parish. On the north side of
the river, but at some distance from it, resting on clay soil, an
elevated ridge extends along the eastern extremity of Cambusnethan
parish, through the middle of Shotts, where it is high and rocky, and
thence through Monkland parish, declining a little as it advances
westward. Much of the soil in this region is moorish, coarse, and wet.
Dalziell lies in the centre of the great coal district, and abounds in
coal. There is also a flagstone quarry. The soil is chiefly a heavy
clay. There is an expanse of grass land on the holms and haughs near the
Clyde. Old Monkland is superior to other parishes over coal in respect
of fertility; but about 1500 acres are uncultivated, including Gartgill
moss, Lochwood, Drumpellier, and Coatsmuir.
The lower ward is not extensive, but is important in
consequence of being near a large city. A good deal has been improved
and ornamented so as to form summer retreats for prosperous citizens.
With regard to the remainder, the soil consists generally of clay or
sand, naturally very poor. In Cadder parish the greater part of the soil
is of a tilly character.. There are numerous mosses and lochs and a few
good springs, the moss extending to about 300 acres. Great fields of
fire-clay are found near the Glasgow and Garnkirk Railway. The best land
in the parish, part of it on gravel, part on sand, is alongside of the
canal and the Kelvin. In Cambuslang the soil is clay from a few feet to
30 inches thick, beneath which is white freestone twenty feet in
thickness, and then shale to the depth of 30 or 40 feet. Iron and
limestone abound. The whole of Govan parish is arable; and the soil is
of good quality. The Barony parish is diversified in surface, and some
of the low grounds are very fertile. On the whole the district above the
falls is superior to any in the lower part of the county, some parts
excelling in real intrinsic fertility other places 400 or 500 feet less
elevated. The elevation rather than the soil hinders cultivation in the
higher regions, and yet, in some of the highest and wildest districts
there are green spots which indicate the existence of culture at an
early period. Where tillage has not been attempted the pasture has been
much improved by surface draining.
As might be expected from the diversities of
situation and altitude, the climate of the county is varied. The lower
grounds in the west are open to the influences of the Atlantic Ocean,
but the vapours coming from the south-west are intercepted and
condensed by the hills of Renfrew and Dumbarton, and the district about
Glasgow is thereby made rainy but comparatively mild. On the other hand
the force of easterly winds is broken by the higher grounds on the east
side of the county, and the cold fogs which prevail at times on the east
coast are found only to a moderate degree in the west. The greater
amount of cloud, together with the more frequent and heavy rains, is apt
to make the spring late; and when dry weather comes in May and June, as
it often does, with east winds, there is little growth till rain falls
about the end of June. Growth is then rapid, and usually continues well
through the autumn, but the harvest is often late and in danger of being
spoiled by unsettled weather. In the upper ward the moderating influence
of the Atlantic is less perceptible, and the air is purer, but has a
tendency to chilliness; and if the sky becomes clear at night there is
danger of hoar frost except in sultry summer weather. On the highest
hills the climate is severe. Fogs gather round the hills chilling the
atmosphere, summer heat is often interrupted by cold and stormy gusts;
and in winter the hills are often covered with snow for weeks together
when the lower lands have a moderate temperature.
Surface, and Modes of Farming.
In the south corner of the county, bounded on the
south and south-west by Dumfries-shire, is the parish of Crawford, 18
miles long by 14½ wide, and including one of
the wildest districts of the southern highlands. In extent it is larger
than the whole lower ward. The mining village of Leadhills is computed
to be 1300 feet above the level of the sea, and is the highest inhabited
village in Scotland; but the Lowthers, a ridge of hills more to the
eastward, are 1100 feet higher, making a total height of 2409 feet above
the sea level. Among the hills in the east of the parish rise several
important rivers, as indicated in the lines:—
"Avon, Annan, Tweed, and Clyde
A' rise out o' ae hill side."
On its way through the parish, the infant Clyde
receives the Daer, the Elvan, the Powtrail, the Midloch, Camp, Glengonar,
and other tributaries. The village of Crawford, 3 miles south of
Abington, is composed of cottages, built in a straggling manner near the
banks of the Clyde; and the ruins are still visible of the castle once
the stronghold of the Earls of Crawford.
In this extensive parish there are forty proprietors,
and the rental, as indicated by the valuation roll, is £24,229, 2s. The
Duke of Buccleuch owns two farms, consisting wholly of hill land—Kirkhope,
occupied by Mr James Milligan at a rent of £720, and Whitecamp, occupied
by Mr Richard Vassie at £480. Sir T. E. Colebrooke, Bart., MP., has
eight large farms, besides others of smaller size. Normangill is let to
Mr Richard Vassie for £1100; and Crookedstone to Mr John Borland for
£1225. The large extent of meadow and grazing land on this farm, which
is enriched by deposits from the overflowing of the Daer and Powtrail,
enhances considerably the value of the farm. It carries a stock of
blackfaced sheep, which has recently been changed from a Cheviot flock
on account of the severe winters and cold summers lately experienced. It
also carries a large lot of cross and Highland cattle on the holm land.
Castlemains is occupied by the representatives of the late Mr David
Tweedie at a rental of £525; and it carries a good Cheviot stock,
besides a small remnant of a once famous herd of Ayrshire cattle. Other
farms on this estate are let at from £300 to £600 a year. The Earl of
Hopetoun is proprietor of Leadhills, and has a rental of £4045 for lead
mines. He likewise owns several large farms. Glenochar and Glengeith are
let to Messrs Gideon Pott and Mr H. Tait, non-resident tenants, for
£1363. They carry a good stock of Cheviot sheep. The farm of Smith-wood
is let to Mr William Wilson for £725. The farm of Mumerie, on the south
bank of the lower Daer, is one of the most extensive in the parish, is
stocked with blackfaced sheep, and tenanted by Mr Thomas Wilson at a
rental of £1375. The representatives of the late Mr Tweedie hold three
farms at a rental of £1086, 16s. The parish is almost wholly pastoral,
with the exception of cultivated belts along the banks of the Clvde. The
hills adjoining the river are generally grassy, and used to carry
Cheviot sheep; but, owing to the severe winters of the last ten years,
these have largely given place to the hardy blackfaced stock. During the
last ten years fourteen hirsels, containing 8000 sheep, have been
changed from Cheviot to blackfaced in this parish alone.
The area of the parish is 65,400 acres. In 1881 there
were 384 inhabited houses, and a population of 1763; in 1871 the
inhabited houses were 374 and the population 1829. In 1791 the parish
was farmed by 15 store farmers; in 1859 there were 28, of whom 13 who
farmed 40 per cent. of the parish were nonresident. In 1859 it was
estimated that the parish contained 19,500 Cheviot, and 12,000
blackfaced sheep, and 500 feeding sheep. There were 56 shepherds, 18
servant men, 6 lads, 46 women, 8 girls, 2 young horses, 46 farm horses,
11 saddle and harness horses, 302 milk cows, 116 queys, 58 calves, 116
feeding cattle, and 58 swine. These figures are exclusive of the people,
cows, crofts, and kailyards in the village of Leadhills.
The adjoining parish of Crawfordjohn contains 26,357
acres, with a valued rent of £11,099, 3s. a year; and there are 47
proprietors on the valuation roll. In 1881 there were 166 inhabited
houses, with a population of 843, a decrease of ten during the last ten
years. In 1861 the population numbered 980. The parish is about 12 miles
in length, and is drained by the Dun-eaton water which rises in
Cairntable and joins the Clyde one mile below the village of Abington. A
great part of the parish is owned by Sir T. E. Colebrooke, Bart., M.P.,
whose summer residence is at Abington House, adjoining the pretty little
village of Abington, the prosperity and picturesque appearance of which
dates from the accession of the present holder of the Colebrooke estates
in 1838. Sir Edward Colebrooke, who is ably supported by his factor,
John Ord Mackenzie, Esq., of Dolphinton, has greatly increased the
amenity of his estate by many plantations, judiciously placed so as to
combine shelter with picturesque effect. They are intelligently alive to
everything that will improve the estate. The farm steadings are
commodious, and adjoining each of them is a hay shed capable of
containing all the hay produced on the farm, which the tenant finds to
be a great advantage. In the summer of 1883 Sir Edward erected a silo
capable of holding 41 tons of ensilage, on the farm of Nether
Abington, with a view to experiment with the meadow hay as to the
suitability for making ensilage. Large tracts of land have been drained
on the estate within the last thirty years, the proprietor being always
willing to supply the money at 5 and 6 per cent. wherever draining is
necessary. The rental of arable land in the district is about £1 per
acre, green hill 10s., and heath and mountain land from 5s. downwards.
Sheep stocks are rented at 9s. to 10s. for Cheviot sheep, and 1s. less
for blackfaced. There is an agricultural show held at Abington in the
last week of August, open to the adjoining parishes, where there are
annually seen some excellent specimens of the several breeds of stock
for which the district is famous. The farms in this parish are part
dairy, part sheep. Ayrshire cattle alone are reared, and dairies have
from 15 to 40 cows. Young cows are reared to a considerable extent on
every farm, and are kept till they are three years old, when they have
their first calf. The milk is manufactured principally into cheese in
summer, and sent to Glasgow during winter. The cheese consists of
Cheddar and Dunlop. The sheep stock consists of both Cheviot and
blackfaced; but, with a few changes from Cheviot into blackfaced in
recent years, the hardy breed now predominates. The most notable farm on
the estate is Nether Abington, tenanted by Mr John Morton at a rent of
£550 a year, on which great improvements have been made, to be
afterwards noticed. Among others are Crawfordjohn farm let to Mr Edward
Watson for £380, Over Abington to Mr James Paterson at £346, 6s.,
Gilkerscleuch Mains to Mr Thomas Inch at £354, 13., Liscleuch to Mr John
Williamson at £373, 12s., and Boghouse to Mr Alexander Dalgleish at
£358. The Earl of Home has several large farms, including Netherton and
Blackhill let to Messrs David and John French at £980, and Stonehill to
Mr Ebenezer Ritchie at £645, 13s.
In the west of the upper ward, 12 miles long by 4 to
7 miles wide, and extending from the county of Ayr to the river Clyde,
is the parish of Douglas, including the fertile and beautiful vale of
Douglas water, but consisting chiefly of high hills covered with grass
to their summits, and stretching away into moorland wastes so extensive
that there are said to be over 25,000 acres of moor in the parish. The
fertile vale of Douglas water, however, maintains the character bestowed
long ago, as "a pleasant strath, plentiful in grass and corn." This
stream, one of the largest tributaries of the Clyde, rises in Douglas
Rig, Cairntable, and after a course of 16 miles, three-fourths of it
through Douglas parish, joins the Clyde, having received some smaller
streams, such as the Monkburn, the Carmacoup burn, the Kinnox, the
Poniel, and others. These all contribute to the beauty, and promote the
verdure of the district. Coal, limestone, and freestone are worked in
the parish, which likewise abounds with marble, Besides the town of
Douglas, which has seven annual fairs, there are the three small
villages of Rigside (inhabited chiefly by colliers) Tablestone, and
Redhill. On the valuation roll are 107 proprietors, many of whom are
owners only of houses and pendicles in the villages; nine-tenths of the
parish are owned by the Earl of Home, as representative of the Barons of
Douglas. The area of the parish is 34,137
acres, and the valued rent £22,496, 17s. In
1881 there were 441 inhabited houses, and 2641 in habitants; in 1871 the
inhabited houses were 420, and 2624 of a population. The hills are
numerous and high, including in the west and north, Little Cairntable,
1693 feet; Douglas Rig, 1454; Parish Holm, 1400; Hareshaw, 1527;
Monkshead, 1594; Hag-shaw, 1540; Commonhill, 1445; and Windrow, 1297; in
the south and east, Northbottom, 1435; Dryriggs, 1443; Auchendaff, 1399;
Kinnox, 1270; Hartwood, 1311; Auchendaff, 1286; and Wild-shaw, 1136. In
the extreme east, but just beyond the boundary, is Cairntable, 1942 feet
high. There is no natural wood of any extent in the parish, but patches
of birch may be found in hollows among the hills. There are, however,
many thousands of acres of plantations, growing larch, spruce, fir, oak,
ash, and elm. There are many extensive farms producing
the finest specimens of blackfaced sheep. On the banks of the
Douglas Water, near the village, is Douglas Castle, an elegant mansion,
surrounded by extensive plantations; and in a park stretching away to
Cairntable, some ash trees are pointed out on which the powerful Earls
of Douglas were wont to hang persons who came under their displeasure.
The spire and aisle of St Bride's Church are still preserved, and in a
vault are the tombs of the family, including "the good Lord James," the
friend of Bruce, and the hero of Castle Dangerous. The remains of
that fortress still exist, near the modern mansion. The policies, grass
parks, and farm of Douglas Castle are placed on the valuation roll at
£1269 a-year; the stables, gamekeeper's house, lodge, and garden at
£250; and the land under wood at £1100. The minerals at Rigside and
Glasphin are let for £1170. In the parish there are at present fully
7000 blackfaced sheep, exclusive of lambs, but they are gradually
increasing; and 5000 Cheviots, exclusive of lambs, but gradually
diminishing. The annual loss by death, exclusive of lambs, is about 2
per cent. of blackfaced, and 4 per cent. of Cheviots. The usual rent per
sheep is 6s. to 12s. on blackfaced and Cheviots. There are no cross bred
lambs except in parks or on some other low-lying land.
Lesmahagow, 14 miles long by 12 miles in width,
extends from the banks of the Clyde, in a series of broad swelling
uplands, to the borders of Ayrshire, where the hills reach an elevation
of 1200 feet. It has an area of 41,299 acres, and the valuation roll
shows a rent of £67,694 a year. In 1881 there were 1877 inhabited
houses, and a population of 9949; in 1871 the inhabited houses were
1364, and the population 8709. There are 501 proprietors on the
valuation roll, many of whom have small holdings. Among the principal
proprietors are John Stirling Alston, Esq.; W. C. S. Cuninghame, Esq.,
of Caprington Castle, Kilmarnock; the Earl of Home; the Duke of
Hamilton; James Charles Hope Vere, Esq., of Blackwood; and the trustees
of the late General Sir Thomas Monteath Douglas of Stonebyres. The
parish is drained by the Poniel, the Douglas, the Logan, the Nethan, the
Kype, and other streams; and along their banks, as well as near the
Clyde, are fine alluvial lands. The village of Lesmahagow is beautifully
situated on the Nethan, 6 miles from Lanark; and, besides being the
capital of a parish extensive, fertile, and populous, its prosperity is
enhanced by a large cotton mill in the neighbourhood. The other villages
are Kirkfieldbank, Kirkmuirhill, Boghead, Hazelbank, and New Trows. Near
Crossford, on the banks of the Nethan, are the ruins of Craignethan
Castle, described by Sir Walter Scott under the name of Tillietudlem:
and along the banks of the Clyde, from Kirkfieldbank to Crossford are
many orchards. The parish is one of considerable agricultural value. The
orchards near the Clyde contain apples, pears, plums; and gardens yield
gooseberries, currants, rasps, and strawberries. In the higher districts
the crops are late and harvest precarious. The common rotation is the
five or six shift, but freedom of cropping is generally allowed. The
average yield of oats per acre is 4 to 6 quarters, with an average
weight of 35 to 38 lbs. a bushel. The common yield of potatoes is 7 to 8
tons an acre, of turnips 12 to 15 tons, and of hay 2 tons. Grain is sown
in the last week of March and the first week of April, turnips from the
15th of May till the beginning of June. Harvest begins about the middle
of September. The stock consists of Ayrshire cows and blackfaced sheep,
and stock of both kinds has improved during the past twenty-five years.
There is now less cropping and more cattle kept; and they are much
better fed and sold younger. A good deal of land has been drained, the
proprietor giving the tiles; and steadings and fences are generally
good. Servants are generally lodged in the farm houses, and the wages
are at least a third more than they were thirty years since. Bents from
1850 till 1870 rose 30 to 50 per cent., but where leases have been
renewed lately there has been little or no change. The chief dairy
produce of the district is Dunlop cheese.
In early times Lesmahagow was a place of considerable
consequence. In the year 1144 David I. granted the church of that place
as a cell to the abbey of Kelso, and, by the same charter, conferred on
it the secular privilege of sanctuary, within a space marked by four
crosses, in these terms,—"whoso, for escaping peril of life or limb,
flees to said cell, or conies within the four crosses that stand around
it; of reverence to God and St Machutus, I grant him my firm peace." The
"king's peace" was a privilege attached to the sovereign's court and
castle, but which he could confer on other persons or places; and the
penalty for raising the hand to strike within the king's girth was four
cows to the king, and one to him whom the offender would have struck.
For slaying a man "in the king's peace" the forfeit was nine score cows
to the king, besides "the assythment" or composition to the kin of him
slain "after the assise of the land." The pastoral character pertains
largely to the parishes of Roberton and Wiston, Lamington, and Culter.
The united parish of Roberton and Wiston, on the west bank of the Clyde,
is 5½ miles long by 2½
in width, with an area of 13,140 acres, of which 4606 acres are arable,
and 7976 heathy pasture. The valuation is £8636, 7s. There were 116
inhabited houses in 1881, and 562 inhabitants; in 1871 the houses were
135, and the inhabitants 680. In 1861 the population was 786. The parish
has a hilly surface, rising from the Clyde toward the north, where Tinto
forms the boundary. The farming is dairy and pastoral, most of the sheep
being blackfaced, varied with a few flocks of Cheviots. The Earl of Home
is the chief proprietor. Mr Johnston Ferguson, Wiston Lodge, owns
several farms, and has a residence at the base of Tinto. Mr M'Queen
Mackintosh also has several farms, and has his comfortable looking house
on the banks of the Clyde, close to Lamington Station.
The united parish of Wandell and Lamington, on the
southeast bank of the Clyde, is 9 miles long by 4 in width, with an area
of 12,820 acres; and a valued rent of £8293, 14s. It contained 62
inhabited houses in 1881, with 316 of a population; in 1871 there were
63 inhabited houses, with 332 inhabitants; in 1861 the population was
380. The parish has an upland surface, rising to a height of 1300 to
1400 feet; but there are arable haughs near the Clyde, 400 acres in
extent, besides patches of holm land scattered here and there. Many
streams well stocked with trout flow down from the hills, and are
attractive to anglers. At Lamington village is a station of the
Caledonian Railway. The holm or level land is well cultivated,
diversified with hillocks and gracefully adorned with trees; the hills
are smooth and dry, and afford excellent pasture. In the holms the soil
is generally a deep rich loam, and toward the hills a free and kindly
soil. An embankment along the Clyde, the whole length of Lamington
parish, was constructed in 1835-36 at a cost of £2000, and gives great
protection to the holm lands. Dairying and sheep breeding form the usual
routine of agriculture in the parish. The sheep are blackfaced. On
account of the expense and the difficulty in securing efficient
management of the dairy in recent years several herds have either been
greatly reduced, or have given place wholly to the more easily managed
woolly tribe. Lord Lamington owns fully half the parish, and has a
stately house near the village of Lamington, the surroundings of which
have been greatly beautified by the present holder of the Lamington
estate.
Culter, in the south-east part of the upper ward, is
7½ miles long by 3½
wide, with an area of 10,175 acres, and a valuation of £7000, 3s. There
were 92 inhabited houses in 1881, with 428 inhabitants; in 1871 the
houses were 98 and the inhabitants 447. In 1861 the population was 484.
There are on the valuation roll eleven proprietors, the principal of
whom is John Menzies Baillie, Esq., of Culterallers. Part of the parish
is well wooded, but toward the south, where it forms the watershed with
the county of Peebles, the hills are high and bare. The farm of
Culterallers, on which is a notable stock of blackfaced sheep, is let,
along with Snaip, to Mr Robert Watson for £724. The house and home farm
of Culter Maynes are on the east side of the Clyde, and the grass parks
are let for £660 a year. Mr D. Sim, the proprietor, constructed high
embankments, thus adding to the value of the rich holms by protecting
them from the river floods. There are about 2100 acres of heathy
pasture, most of it rough; and in 1859 it was calculated that the parish
contained 6000 Cheviot and 5500 blackfaced sheep, 538 cows, 212 queys,
162 calves, and 132 horses. On the estate of Culterallers, near the
mansion, is a maple tree, which, in 1800, measured 8 feet in
circumference at 3 feet above the ground; in 1835 it measured 10 feet,
and was believed to be the largest tree of its kind in Scotland,
excepting one at Roseneath in Dumbartonshire. A limb has been broken off
since then, which weighed from 20 to 30 cwts. The present measurement is
about 9 feet, and the only limb left is a little over 6 feet at 3 feet
above the trunk. It was considerably more, but by the fall of the limb
the trunk was divided almost right down the centre. Great efforts have
been made to save the remainder by covering it with zinc, then removing
the covering and cleaning and painting the broken part; but now, though
apparently healthy in foliage, it is open from the break to the ground.
A young tree grown from seed of the large one was planted in 1882.
Pettinain is a small parish with an area of 3900
acres and a valuation of £4800, 10s. In 1881
the inhabited houses were 59 and the population 360; in 1871 there were
67 houses and a population of 366; in 1861 there were 407 inhabitants.
The parish is 3 miles long from north-east to south-west, with an
extreme width of 2½ miles. The surface is
uneven, and Westraw Hill attains a height of 1000 feet. The soil is of
various qualities in the low grounds; in the uplands it is moorish. The
village of Pettinain is situated on the banks of the Clyde, 4 miles east
of Lanark, and is within easy reach of Carstairs, Carnwath, and
Thankerton stations. Westraw House, in this parish was the residence of
the last Earl of Hyndford, who took much interest in the agriculture of
the district; and in the parish there are still some good and well
managed farms.
Carmichael parish is 5½
miles long by 3 to 4½ in width, and has an
area of 11,314 acres, with a valuation of £9967, 1s. In 1881 there were
141 inhabited houses, and a population of 770; in 1871 there were 132
inhabited houses and 708 of a population. In 1861 the population was
886. There are 8 proprietors on the valuation roll, but some are small,
and nearly the whole parish belongs to Sir W. C. J. Carmichael
Anstruther, Bart., and the Earl of Home. The parish has a very
diversified surface, extending from the Clyde, where it is joined by the
Douglas water, to the top of Tinto, 2316 feet high. Except Tinto, the
elevations are not great; and there is a gradual transition from the
wild grandeur of the pastoral region to the greater mildness and
fertility of the middle ward. The soil in general is light and friable,
and near the Clyde is fertile. The farms are of moderate size, few of
them exceeding £200 a year of rent, and the amount per acre is from £1
to £1, 10s.
The neighbouring parish of Symington, likewise on the
left bank of the Clyde, has an area of 3504 acres and a rental of £6496.
In 1881 there were 108 inhabited houses and 462 inhabitants; in 1871 the
inhabited houses were 184, and the inhabitants 442. In 1861 the
population was 528. The parish contains some arable and fertile land
near the Clyde, which now gently glides with many windings through a
tract of alluvial meadows; and westward it extends to the top of Tinto.
There are twenty-five proprietors on the valuation roll, with some good
sized farms; but there are many remnants of old pendicles rented at £16
to £45; and the aspect of the parish, with thatched homesteads and byres
in a line with the houses, indicates the existence of some farmers who
do the whole farm work by themselves and their families.
On the opposite bank of the river is Libberton
parish, with an area of 8231 acres, and a valued rent of £8105, 12s. In
1881 there were 114 inhabited houses, with a population of 625; in 1871
the houses were 123, and the population 691. In 1861 the population was
836. The parish includes some fine haugh land along the banks of the
Clyde and its tributaries, the north and south Medwyns, but towards the
east it is more elevated. There are 20 proprietors on the valuation
roll, the principal of whom are Sir S, M. Lockhart, Bart., John George
Chancellor, Esq., of Shieldhill, and the Society for the Propagation of
Christian Knowledge. The estate of Shieldhill has a gross rental of
about £2000, and the average rent of the estate is about £1, 10s. per
acre. The gross rent has increased about £400 in the last twenty-five
years. In the same period about 300 acres on this estate have been
reclaimed at a cost of about £15 an acre, and 450 acres have been
planted. Twenty years ago Mr Brown, of Libberton Mains farm, on the
Carnwath estate of Sir S. M. Lockhart, Bart., incurred the expense of
building large tanks and erecting a steam-engine for the purpose of
utilizing the liquid rejected by the dung heap. His idea was that about
six acres of land in grass near the steading were sufficient to absorb
beneficially all the liquid manure on his farm of about 700 acres, on
which the whole straw and turnip crop were consumed. This arrangement
lasted for some years, but has long been discontinued.
Covington parish has an area of 5114 acres, and a
valued rental of £6725, 11s. In 1881 there were 104 inhabited houses,
and 444 of a population; in 1871 the houses were 104, and the population
454. In 1861 the population was 532. The chief cause of the decrease of
population in this and neighbouring parishes is the failure of hand-loom
weaving, at one time the only industry competing with farm labour, but
now almost unknown owing to the introduction of power looms. In the
parish there are 17 proprietors on the valuation roll, but most of them
are only feuars of a house and garden. There are only four proprietors
of any extent; of whom the principal are Sir W. C. J. Carmichael
Anstruther, Bart., and Sir S. M. Lockhart, Bart. There is a considerable
extent of flat land of good agricultural value, and the upland slopes,
which attain no great elevation except on the sides of Tinto, are
clothed with grain and green crops alternating with sound pasture. Near
the kirk, and surrounded by noble old trees, are the ruins of Covington
Tower, an ancient fortress of the Lindsays; and near it an ancient
dovecote also of great age, to which the only access for pigeons is from
the top. It is inhabited by hundreds of pigeons. The farm of Covington
Mains, conjoined with Covington Mill, both on the estate of Sir S. M.
Lockhart, Bart., is farmed by Mr Allan M'Lean, and carries a good dairy
stock. The neighbouring farm of Meadow-flatt is held by Mr Hugh Lindsay.
The buildings are excellent, and the steading is finely situated on the
south slope of a hill looking out on Tinto and the mountainous district
of the upper ward. There is a breeding and feeding stock of sheep and
cattle on the farm, which is in all respects well managed. As an
indication of the good feeling which exists between landlord and tenant
on the estate of the Lockharts of Lee, it may be stated that the farm of
Meadow-flatt has been held by the Lindsay family for five generations,
or over 160 years, and that the present occupant, Mr Hugh Lindsay, till
four years since, held the adjoining farm of Covington Mains, which had
also been for five generations in possession of his ancestors in the
female line, named Prentice. Among other prominent farms in the parish
are Covington, Hillhead, let to Mr Archibald Stodart, and Lower and
Upper Warrenhill, let to Mr John Tweedie for £285, and Sheriff-flatts to
Mr William Bell at £450.
Biggar parish is on the east border of the ward,
adjoining the county of Peebles. It has an area of 7272 acres, and a
valued rental of £14,774. In 1881 there were 466 inhabited
houses, and a population of 2128 ; in 1871 the houses were 354, and the
population 2013. In 1861 the population was 1999. There are 185
proprietors on the valuation roll, of whom the greater proportion are
small. In the Old Statistical Account, 1791, it is reported that "the
land in the neighbourhood of Biggar is mostly distributed in small farms
of £10 and £15 each; in the country parts of the parish some farms are
let at £50, and others at £70, and one at £150." With the beginning of
this century improvements were rapid. New steadings were built, drains
were cut, dykes were constructed, and hedge-rows were planted. Two
thousand acres of land very soon assumed a new aspect, and became
greatly increased in value. From Boghall to Broughton Bridge, a distance
of 4 miles, the Biggar water was deepened 2 feet, by which it was
estimated that 500 acres of land were increased £1 an acre in value.
Even the climate has been improved by the drainage of extensive
morasses, executed by various proprietors. The soil in the parish
includes clay, sand, gravel, loam, and peat moss. It carries good crops
of oats, barley, peas, turnips, and potatoes, but is not well adapted
for beans and wheat. The dairy has long received much attention ; and
most of the farmers have a stock of milk cows, the butter and cheese
produced from which are much esteemed. The valley is 628 feet, and the
town 695 feet, and the hills 1190 to 1260 feet above the sea level; one
result of which is that the atmosphere is keen, and the winters severe;
but the air is neither so damp nor so cold as might be expected, as the
climate is equally beyond the range of easterly harrs from the German
Ocean and excessive rains from the west. So level is the valley that the
Biggar water, from its source to its junction with the Tweed at
Drummelzier, has a fall of only 25 feet. There are no natural woods, but
remains of alder, oak, and birch are dug up from the mosses, and hazel
nuts have been discovered several feet below the surface. In modern
plantations the ash and elm are the favourite hardwood trees, after
which are the beech and the plane. The general rent of land in the
district is about 25s. an acre; and the rotation extends to six or seven
years. The style of farming includes a portion of grain, turnips, and
potatoes; a dairy; some feeding cattle, a few feeding sheep, some young
calves reared, and lambs bought, fattened, and sold in the best market.
There has been considerable improvement in the stock, and the tendency
at present is towards more feeding with less dairy farming.
The north-eastern extremity of the county is occupied by the parishes of
Walston, Dolphinton, and Dunsyre. Walston has an area of 4366 acres, of
which nearly 3000 are arable. In 1881 there were 74 inhabited houses,
and 340 of a population; in 1871
the houses were 78 and the
inhabitants 425. The most extensive proprietor is Sir S. M. Lockhart,
Bart. The valuation is £3349, 18s.
Dolphinton, in the north-east angle of the county,
has an area of 3574 acres, and a valued rental of £3517, 11s. In 1881
the inhabited houses were 49 and the population 292; in 1871 there were
50 inhabited houses and 231 of a population. In 1861 the population was
260. There are eleven proprietors on the roll, but the great proportion
of the property is owned by John Ord Mackenzie, Esq., W.S., a gentleman
who is factor for several important estates in upper Clydesdale, and to
whose judicious management the upper ward is much indebted. The parish
is picturesquely situated east and north of the Black Mount of Walston
and the hill of Dunsyre, and between the sources of the South Medwyn and
the Tarth waters. The soil is, in some parts, a dry, friable earth or
sandy loam of various depths, but in other places there is clay of a
rusty iron colour. In 1791 the parish was divided into small farms, each
keeping several cottages, in the usual style of that time, but now the
farms have been much enlarged, and are cultivated in the most approved
style of modern agriculture, in which there is cordial co-operation
between proprietor and tenant. Dolphinton House is a handsome mansion
situated in a well wooded park. Near Garvald House the South Medwyn
water separates into two streams, one flowing toward the Tweed, the
other going to join the Clyde. The fork in the stream where the division
takes place is called the Salmon Leap; and it is alleged that salmon and
salmon fry killed above the falls of the Clyde may have got into that
stream from the Tweed by way of the Lyne, the Tarth, and the Medwyn, or
by Wolfclyde Bridge, near Biggar, where the waters of the Clyde, when in
flood, pass into a feeder of the Biggar water and thence into the Tweed.
The parish of Dunsyre has an area of 10,743 acres, of
which about 2000 are arable, and 8000 are heath or rough pasture; the
valuation is £6425, 19s. In 1881 there were 44 inhabited houses, and 254
of a population; in 1871 the houses were
50, and the population 302; in 1861 the
population was 312. Nearly the whole parish belongs to Sir S. M.
Lockhart. The hill of Dunsyre, 1313 feet high, is the southern terminus
of the P'entlands, and is composed of stone similar to that of Arthur's
Seat or Salisbury Crags. The South Medwyn water rises from the
Craigenvar hills in the parish of Linton, but soon turns westward into
Dunsyre parish, where it is joined by the West-water, a stream of nearly
equal volume coming south from the Black and Bleaklaw hills. So flat is
the vale between Dunsyre and Walston that the Medwyn water falls only 15
feet in three miles. It is a sluggish stream, but good for anglers, the
trout being generally red, of considerable size, and
superior in quality to those of the Tweed and Clyde. Pike of large size
are found in the deep pools. Great improvement has resulted from the
straightening of the Medwyn, and the draining of land traversed by it.
In the parish there are beds of pure limestone resembling grey marble;
also ironstone and coal, but they are not wrought. The soil is generally
light and sandy in the eastern district, but, toward the west, the
subsoil consists of clay, sand, gravel, and stones covered with a light
soil that speedily becomes covered with heath unless kept under
cultivation. The system of agriculture consists of stock and dairy
farming, to which cultivation is made subordinate. The rotation of crops
on arable land is the five or six shift. Much attention is paid to the
dairy, and the milk houses are models of cleanliness. Stock has improved
a good deal within the past twenty-five years; and a good deal of land
has been broken up. On the farm of Weston, Dunsyre, within the last
twelve years about 100 acres have been broken up and drained, and nearly
all the arable part of the farm has been limed. Mr Brown keeps feeding
stock, rearing about 15 calves, and purchasing others which are fed off
in two years. The land is generally well watered, the houses are
convenient and in good repair, but the fences are chiefly wire, which is
not considered suitable for horses and cattle. The rent of arable lands
average from 26s. to 30s. per imperial acre. Owing to the lightness of
the soil it is considered that a pair of horses can cultivate 100 acres.
Rents have increased since 1850 in some cases 40 per cent. The hill land
is chiefly heather, but in some cases green mixed with heather; and the
hill sheep are all blackfaced.
Carnwath, about the middle of the east side of the
county, extends from the banks of the Clyde in a northerly direction to
the borders of Mid-Lothian, and is 12 miles long by 8 in width. Its area
is 30,446 acres, and its valuation £42,593, 14s. The number of inhabited
houses in 1881 was 1113, with a population of 5831; in 1871 there were
1073 houses with 5709 of a population. In 1861 the population was 3594.
On the valuation roll appear the names of 240 proprietors, but the
greater part of the parish belongs to Sir S. M. Lockhart, Bart., who has
sixty-five tenants on the roll, some of them with large and good
holdings. The writer of the report in 1791 describes the land near the
village as sandy, with a mixture more or less of black loam; the holms
near the Clyde a deep, rich, clay; those on the Medwyn more inclined to
sand; in the Muirland either a cold stiff clay, or moss with clay or
sand at bottom. In the dale land, as locally named, "the grass is sweet
and good, fit either for rearing or feeding black cattle or sheep" but
"in the Muir-lands much of the pasture is boggy, producing plenty of a
coarse, sour, benty grass calculated better for rearing than fattening
the cattle upon it; and large tracts of such land lie in the course of
the burns which permeate the northern part of the parish." It is added
that "flow mosses abound in the parish 20 to 30 feet deep, much on a
dead level, and irredeemable." In 1834 it was said that "draining has
been executed to a great extent in every part of the parish within the
last forty years;" and "within the last thirty years there has been
taken out of moss and brought into crop from 800 to 1000 acres."
Attention was also given to the stable, the byre, and the barn, but the
farm houses were not considered relatively so good as the steadings.
Since 1834 the parish has been still further improved, and that to a
large extent. According to the Ordnance Survey there are now 16,526
acres of arable land, of moss and rough pasture 4387, meadow 85, heathy
pasture 3117, rough pasture 4066, and wood 1296. One of the largest and
most important farms in the parish is Calla, the property of Sir S. M.
Lockhart, and tenanted by Mr A. Fleming. The farm includes 350 acres of
arable land, with 900 acres of pasture and moor. The farmhouse is
substantial and commodious, and the lawn and adjuncts are kept with
admirable neatness. The steading is stone-built and slated, uncommonly
well arranged and thoroughly substantial. Through the kitchen there is
access to the dairy, and the passage is continued to the byre and over
the whole steading, without the necessity of going outside. The ordinary
produce of the dairy is Dunlop cheese, the making of which is
facilitated by all modern improvements. The byre is 120 feet long, by 21½
feet wide, and 9 feet high, and it is arranged to keep forty cows. The
straw barn and hay shed have easy communication with the byre. Though
surrounded by higher grounds there is no adequate water supply by
gravitation, but water is forced up by a ram from a lower level. The
farm has been occupied by Mr Fleming for a lease of nineteen years, and
about half of a second lease has expired, during which period great
improvements have been made. Much land, formerly moor, has been broken
up, fenced, drained, and limed, and brought under the plough. Part of
the fencing has been done by the proprietor. Some of the fences are
wire, others are stone dykes. The soil is generally light. The rotation
of crops on the arable land extends over eight years usually; but less
is ploughed than there was formerly, and hay is cultivated instead. The
sheep on the hill land are blackfaced ewes, and all the stock of both
sheep and cattle is bred on the farm. They are fed chiefly on the
produce of the farm, but partly and increasingly on cake and meal. The
surplus animals are sold partly at public sales, partly at home.
Another extensive and valuable farm is Lampits, also
in the estate of Sir S. M. Lockhart, and occupied by Mr Mather. Situated
within a mile east from Carstairs Junction, the farm has a good
proportion of holm land, which is liable to be overflowed by the Clyde,
but the steadings on East and West Lampits are finely placed on elevated
sites, and the farm buildings are all in the best style. The farm is
arable with a dairy, but the cows are let to a lower or dairyman.
Mr Purdie Somerville occupies the farm of Muirhouse
on the same estate, but in the parish of Libberton. The stock consists
of cattle, pigs, and sheep; the two former reared on the farm, the sheep
purchased, fed, and again sold. Through better feeding the stock in the
district has improved in recent years. There has been little change in
the system of cropping, but a good deal of moor has been brought under
cultivation; and, on the whole, there is more stock, and better kept.
Mr Anderson, West Forth, has a farm of 300 acres, for
which he pays £394 of rent. About 50 acres of oats are grown each year,
with a proportion of turnips and potatoes; but the principal stock
consists of 52 Ayrshire cows, and the industry of the farm is the
production of butter. The whole produce is consigned to one merchant in
Edinburgh, who pays 1s. 6d. a pound all the year. In winter the cows are
fed on pease meal, hay, and boiled chaff; and Mr Anderson calculates
that the amount paid for feeding is equal to the rent. On the farm there
are 50 acres of natural meadow, and 50 acres improved out of moss, and
sown with Timothy. The meadows are top dressed with 18 to 20 cart loads
of dung to an acre.
The village of Carnwath is a station on the
Caledonian Railway, 7 miles from Lanark and 25 from Edinburgh, and was
doubtless coeval with the first settlement of the Somervilles in the
12th century. In 1451 it was erected a burgh of barony. It was formerly
a quaint, old-fashioned place, consisting of thatched cottages, badly
arranged; but is now a clean little town, half-a-mile long, containing a
double line of stone-built and slated houses, with some specimens of the
older type still left. A mile to the north-west are the ruins of
Cowdailly or Cowthally Castle, the fortress of the Somervilles, on a
promontary projecting into the morass—a dismal tract called Carnwath
Moor—which extends from Causeway-end in Lothian to Carnwath, and through
which the traveller from Edinburgh approaches this part of Clydesdale.
There used to be annual fairs in Carnwath for horses, cattle, and sheep,
but they have fallen into disuse, with the exception of two in the year
for hiring servants. The other villages in the parish are Forth,
Newbigging, and Braehead. In the parish there are quarries of lime and
freestone, and extensive ironworks founded in 1779 by two brothers named
Wilson, who built the village of Wilsontown for the accommodation of
their workpeople. The situation was exceedingly convenient, as coal,
ironstone, limestone, and fire clay were all on the ground where the
blast furnaces were built. The works were purchased in 1821 by Mr Dixon
of the Calder Iron Works.
Carstairs, extending from the north bank of the Clyde
to the borders of Mid-Lothian, between Carnwath on the east and Lanark
on the west, consists of a higher and a lower district, separated by an
elevated ridge. The Mouse water traverses the centre of the parish. The
area of the parish is 9820 acres, of which 6010 are arable, and 1857
rough pasture; and its valued rent is £15,974, 13s. In 1881 the
inhabited houses were 387, and the population 1955 ; in 1871 the houses
were 258, with a population of 1718 ; and in 1861 the population was
1345. On the valuation roll there are fifty-three proprietors, of whom
the principal is Robert Menteith, Esq., of Carstairs. The mansion is an
elegant Gothic structure, situated close to Carstairs Junction, and
surrounded with fine trees. The lawn, gardens, and shrubberies are
extensive and well arranged, but an expanse of rough heather in close
contiguity shows the wild and moorish character of the soil in its
natural state. The home farm is valued at £490 a year, the grass parks
at £600, woods £100, mansion, lodge, and stables at £215. On the east
side of the mansion and grounds, and including in its centre the station
and village of Carstairs Junction, is Strawfrank farm, occupied by Mr
John Allison. Like all farms in the district, Strawfrank includes a herd
of Ayrshire cows, the milk of which is partly sold to villagers at the
junction, and the remainder sent to Edinburgh or Glasgow. Milk can leave
Carstairs at seven in the morning, and the cost of carriage to either
city is 1d. a gallon, which is paid by the sender. The price obtained
for milk is generally 6d. a gallon in summer, and 10d. to 11d. in
winter; from this the cost of carriage is deducted. In the agriculture
of Strawfrank the six shift is adopted, which consists simply of three
years in crop and a like period in pasture. Of green crop there are
about 30 acres in potatoes and 10 in turnips, which is about the reverse
of the proportion usually adopted in the district. Besides farm yard
manure, guano and dissolved bones are applied to the green crop; oil
cake and pease meal are used as feeding stuffs for cows. No barley or
any grain except oats is grown, and the oats are of the Providence
variety, which is most suitable as being an early sort. The yield will
be 6 bolls an acre in an average year, and the weight 36, 38, to 40 lbs.
a bushel. Potatoes yield 7 to 8 tons of good potatoes to the acre. The
soil of the farm is. much mixed. A large tract north of Carstairs
Junction has been taken from moss, and from being a worthless morass is
now fair soil stocked with sheep and cattle. The whole farm has been
drained, but the tiles get speedily filled up with red iron ore, and in
three or four years require attention to keep them in order. Mr Allison
has fenced and irrigated about 30 acres of meadow close to the railway,
which promise a good return. The house and steading are fair; but a new
lease has been negotiated in a friendly manner this year, and money is
to be laid out in improving the buildings. The factor on the estate is
Mr John Ord Mackenzie, W.S.; and it should be mentioned as indicating at
once a conscientious tenant and the existence of his confidence in the
proprietor and factor that no diminution of manure or other
deteriorating influence was allowed to operate toward the close of the
lease.
In the higher district of the parish Mr Eliott-Lockhart
of Cleghorn, and of Borthwickbrae, near Hawick, has six farms, of which
the best is Harelaw, recently rented at £450 a year. In the moorland
district the soil is a mixture of clay and black earth; the dale or low
land generally sharp, sandy soil; but both divisions are of fair quality
and capable of producing good crops in an average season.
The parish of Lanark has an area of 10,385 acres, of
which the ordnance survey gives 7053 arable, 524 heathy pasture, 629
rough pasture, and 1220 under wood. The valuation is £22,029, 3s. In
1881 the population of the parliamentary burgh was 4909 ; of the royal,
beyond the parliamentary burgh, 951; and of the landward part of the
parish, 1706. In 1871 the numbers were 5099, 715, and 2012. In 1861 the
population of the parish was 7891. Lanark is believed to have been the
Roman "Colonia," a station on Watling Street; and the place where
Kenneth II. held a council in 978, Alexander
I. erected it into a royal burgh, and the privileges conferred by him
were confirmed by Robert I., James V., and
Charles I. During the wars with England, as well as afterwards in the
time of Charles II., Lanark was the scene of
important transactions. The town occupies an elevated and healthy site
half a mile from the Clyde, and contains handsome buildings and good
shops. It unites with Airdrie, Hamilton, Falkirk, and Linlithgow in
electing a member of Parliament. The market days are Tuesday and
Saturday; and fairs are held on the Wednesday before the 12th May for
rough sheep and black cattle, on the Wednesday before the 12th August
for horses, and on the previous Monday and Tuesday for blackfaced,
Cheviot, and cross lambs; and on the Thursday after Falkirk October
tryst for cattle and horses. Races take place about 2 miles from the
town on the day after the Whitsunday fair. A mile from the town is the
manufacturing village of New Lanark, founded about 1784 by David Dale,
who built the first of the present long range of cotton spinning mills,
and constructed a subterranean aqueduct 300 feet long, cut through the
solid rock, so as to utilise the waters of the Clyde. The mill was
purchased in 1799 by a number of English capitalists for £66,000, and
entered on a new career under the management of a son-in-law of Dale,
Robert Owen, to whom the town is indebted for its educational
establishments. In 1814 the business was offered to public competition,
and purchased by Owen, for a Quaker company, at £112,000. In 1827 Owen
ceased to have any connection with the village, and the factory passed
into other hands. In 1873 the New Lanark company was entered as
possessing 274 acres of land at a valued rent of £2318. The parish is
noted in connection with the falls of the Clyde.
In 1772 Pennant wrote of the land near Lanark, "much
barley, oats, peas, and potatoes are raised about the town, and some
wheat." The manure most in use was a white marl full of shells, found
about four feet below the peat, in a stratum 5½
feet thick; it takes effect after the first year, and produces vast
crops. The same writer adds that " numbers of horses are bred here,
which, at two years old, are sent to the marshes of Ayrshire, where they
are kept till they are fit for use." The surface of the parish is hilly.
At New Lanark it rises 600 feet above the sea level, and the moor of
Lanark is 150 feet higher. In some parts the soil is free, in other
places stiff, with a retentive clay subsoil; some of the moor is good
boggy land, other parts are hard heather. A common rotation is oats,
green crop, oats, then hay or pasture, and afterwards four years in
grass. Oats yield about 30 bushels an acre, weighing 38 to 40 lbs. a
bushel. Potatoes, manured with 30 cart loads of farm yard manure and 6
cwts of Peruvian guano and bone meal mixed, yield 6 to 8 tons an acre.
Land is rented at £1 to £2, and in some cases £2, 10s., an acre; and
newly reclaimed land, after having undergone one or two rotations, lets
at 10s. to 15s. an acre. With the town of Lanark begins a rapid descent
toward the Clyde; orchards speedily begin to appear, and the banks of
the river are covered with them from Lanark to the parish of Dalziell.
The Mouse water, which rises among the hills on the eastern border of
Carnwath parish, joins the Clyde two miles below Lanark by the romantic
ravine of the Cartland crags.
In the neighbourhood of Lanark are handsome mansions,
including Lee House, the residence of Sir Simon Macdonald Lock-hart,
Bart. The house is castellated in style, and the approach is a fine
drive through a wooded park containing some trees of large dimensions.
In the mansion is the "Lee Penny," a talisman of eastern origin, said to
have been brought from Palestine in the fourteenth century by Simon
Locard, ancestor of the present family.
Carluke, adjoining Lanark on the north bank of the
Clyde, has a generally well cultivated
surface, including orchards which cover 130 acres. The area of the
parish is 15,345 acres, and the Valuation £51,230, 4s. In 1881 the
inhabited houses in the town were 862, with a population of 3867; in the
landward part 868 inhabited houses and 4685 inhabitants. In 1871 the
inhabited houses in the town were 439, and the inhabitants 3423; in the
landward portion 596 inhabited houses and 3645 inhabitants. On the
valuation roll there are 408 proprietors, and the valuation is £40,567.
The Mauldslie colliery is in the parish, and its rent is £2526, 3s., and
another colliery rented at £717, 15s. The Coltness Iron Company is also
in the parish. The valuation of ironstone, limestone, brickfields, &c,
is £821, 12s.; and there are rents paid to the company for quarries of
ironstone, freestone, &c, and for clayfield and workmen's houses. The
Shotts iron works are in the parish, and the valuation of the works at
Castlehill is £900.
The western and larger half of the parish is an
undulating expanse, having a considerable elevation toward the west
called the hill of Mauldslie, beyond which, and within half a mile of
the Lee and the Clyde valley on the south and south-east, the ground
suddenly descends toward the Garion, the Clyde, and the Lee. The eastern
side rises gradually till it is elevated nearly 1000 feet above the sea
level at King's Law and Kilcadzow Law, after which it descends toward
the western boundary of Carstairs parish. The lower and flat part of the
parish is well divided and planted; but the upland, though generally
divided and partially planted, is more bleak, and ultimately runs into
moorland. The most fertile spots are on the Clyde, where the soil,
washed down from the banks, is rich and deep; and to a greater or less
degree, this occurs under all the rising grounds. A valuable bit of
pasture for sheep is at the base of King's Law, 900 feet high, in a spot
naturally bleak and barren, which originates in the shales thrown aside
in working, at a remote period, the limestone found there. The burgh of
Carluke is 5 miles from Lanark, and is a station on main line of the
Caledonian Railway. It has two annual fairs.
In the middle ward the Clyde winds through a fertile
and well wooded valley, the land on either side rising up gradually
toward the moorland. On the southern margin of the stream are the
parishes of Dalserf, Hamilton, Blantyre, Cambuslang, and Rutherglen, and
on its north bank are Cambusnethan, Dalziell, Bothwell, and Old Monkland.
Dalserf parish is 6½ miles long by 4 in width,
with a valued rent of £37,355, 3s.; has a rich
surface generally in a high state of cultivation; and has 50 acres of
orchards besides extensive plantations. The village, one of the neatest
in Scotland, 6 miles from Hamilton, is in a low situation, sheltered by
high banks of the Clyde, and having to the eastward a large fertile
valley called Dalserf holm, round which the river makes a circular
sweep. Other villages in the parish are Millhaugh, Larkhall, Pleasance,
and Rosebank; the inhabitants of which are employed in mines or in
cotton and lace weaving. The parish abounds in coal, limestone, and
ironstone. The great roads from Glasgow to Carlisle, and to Lanark by
the Clyde, and from Edinburgh to Ayr, intersect the parish. In 1881
there were in the town of Larkhall 1115 inhabited houses and 6407 of a
population, in the landward part of the parish 536 houses and 2791
inhabitants; in 1871 the houses in the town were 656 and the population
4885, in the landward portion 402 houses and 2456 inhabitants. In 1861
the inhabitants numbered 4876.
The adjoining parish of Stonehouse has a gently
sloping surface, well enclosed, with considerable plantations and a rich
and fertile soil. The village of Stonehouse, 18 miles from Glasgow, but
close to the Caledonian Railway, has a main street nearly a mile long,
and is mostly inhabited by weavers. The area of the parish is 6241
acres, and the valued rent £13,014, 18s. In
1881 the inhabited houses in the town were 511, and the inhabitants
2615; in the landward district, houses 104, population 538. In 1871
there were 412 houses and 2623 inhabitants in the town, and in the
landward district 100 houses with 554 inhabitants. In 1861 the total
population was 3267. Coal, lime, freestone, and ironstone are found in
the parish, but in thin beds. There are three annual fairs for the sale
of black cattle and wool.
Avondale or Strathaven, a large parish, 13½
miles long by 5 to 8 in width with a valued rent of £40,254, 15s., is
green, fertile, and wooded in the lower district, but with a heathy and
mossy surface in the upland portion. About half the parish is
cultivated, and it has long been conspicuous for dairy produce and the
rearing of calves—the herbage being specially adapted for improving the
beef and milk of cattle. Great quantities of potatoes are also grown.
The town is a burgh of barony, 14 miles from Glasgow, and the
inhabitants are supported chiefly by weaving. The Avon rises in the high
grounds in the borders of Ayrshire, and flows in a northward direction,
receiving many tributary streams, and joining the Clyde a little way
above Hamilton Palace. In the lower district the vale is conspicuous for
pastoral beauty, including splendid old wood and numerous mansions
ancient and modern. The area of the parish is 37,533 acres. In 1881 the
inhabited houses in the town of Strathaven were 562, and the inhabitants
3812; in the landward district 289 houses and 1654 inhabitants. In 1871
the houses in the town were 450, and the inhabitants 3645; in the
landward district houses 299, population 1815. In 1861 the population
numbered 6125.
Glassford, containing the villages of Chapelton,
Westquarter, and Heads, is a parish 8 miles long by 2 miles in width,
with a valued rent of £10,300, 14s., with some
fertile soil near the river, but in the uplands an expanse of moor, a
good proportion of which has been improved. The parish contains 6442
acres. In 1881 the inhabited houses were 265, and the population 1452;
in 1871 the houses 246 and the population was 1430. In 1861 the
population was 1938.
East Kilbride is 10 miles long by 3 in width, has an
area of 22,760 acres, and a valuation of £41,117. It contains the
villages of Auldhouse, Crossbill, Jackton, Braehead, Nerston,
Kiltochside, Maxwellton, and part of Busby. The surface is hilly, with a
large tract of moor; and Eldrig attains a height of 1600 feet. The White
Cart river traces part of the western boundary on the borders of
Ayrshire ; and other streams are the Powmillan, Kittock, and the Rotten
Calder. The roads from Glasgow to Muirkirk, and from Eaglesham to
Hamilton traverse the parish. Dunlop cheese is made in the district, and
a fair for cattle is held annually in May. In 1881 the inhabited houses
were, in the town of Busby, 116, population 620; in the landward
district, houses 646 with a population of 3355. In 1871 houses in Busby
35, population 526; landward district, houses 541, inhabitants 3335. In
1861 the population was 4064.
Cambusnethan parish, on the north-east bank of the
Clyde, extends from the river 12 miles in an easterly direction to the
verge of the county, and contains 16,608 acres with a valued rent of
£85,458, 5s. In the parish are extensive and rich haughs or meadow
lands, well enclosed, varied with good plantations, and orchards noted
for apples. The higher lands towards the east attain a height of 800 or
900 feet. The south Calder forms the boundary between Cambusnethan and
Shotts and the banks of that stream, before its junction with the Clyde,
are romantically wooded. The Garrion burn also flows through the parish,
amid precipitous wooded ravines and a beautiful country. The parish
abounds in freestone, ironstone, and coal. The Shotts Iron Company have
blast furnaces at the village of Stain, in the east end of the parish.
At Wishaw and Coltness are extensive tile works. Cambusnethan or
Wishawtown is a station on the Caledonian Railway, and has an extensive
distillery. The village is inhabited chiefly by weavers. The villages of
Stewarton, Bonkle, and Kircknow are in the parish; and the principal
mansions are Wishaw House, belonging to Lord Belhaven and Stenton,
Cambusnethan House, Allanton, Coltness, and Muir-house. In 1881 there
were in the town of Newmains, including Coltness ironworks, 478
inhabited houses, with 2682 inhabitants; in part of Wishaw 2127 houses,
with 10,782 inhabitants; and in the landward part of the parish 1409
inhabited houses, with a population of 7359. In 1871 there were in
Newmains 444 houses and 2545 of a population; in Wishaw 1435 houses and
8812 inhabitants; in the landward district 1523 houses and 8969 of a
population. In 1861 the total population was 14,601.
In the north-east of the county, having Linlithgow on
its east side, 10 miles long by about 8 in width, and with an area of 24
944 acres, and a valuation of £26,047, is the parish of Shotts. The
surface is generally level, but there are several hills from the summits
of which can be seen the towns of Glasgow, Hamilton, and Paisley; and it
is said fourteen counties can be seen in whole or in part. The North and
South Calders and other streams intersect the parish. The soil is
chiefly clay, with a mixture of loam on the banks of the river, and peat
in places. Near Kirk of Shotts the country has a wild and dreary aspect,
in which all the wealth is underground ; and it is said to be the
highest cultivated land in Scotland. The farm steadings are good and
firmly built, and look as if they included a considerable proportion of
the agricultural value of the land. The prevailing rocks belong to the
Carboniferous formation, and include coal, ironstone, and whinstone; all
of which are worked. In the south side of the parish is a stratum of
fine clay. The parish is traversed by the south road from Edinburgh to
Glasgow ; and by a branch mineral railway in connection with the
Caledonian system. The Shotts and Omoa Ironworks were established in
1757, and are still carried on, furnishing employment to many of the
inhabitants. In 1881 the inhabited houses were 2014, and the population
11,214; in 1871 the houses were 1332, and the inhabitants 8353. In 1861
the population was 7343.
Bordering with the counties of Dumbarton and
Stirling, extending 9 miles from east to west, with an extreme width of
7 miles, an area of 19,885 acres and a valuation of £88,453, 19s. 9d. is
New Monkland, including the parliamentary burgh of Airdrie, and the
villages of Arden, Ballochney, Clarkston, Riggend, and Wattstown. In
1881 there were in the parliamentary and royal burgh of Airdrie 2743
inhabited houses, and a population of 13,363; in the suburban part of
Airdrie 315 houses and 2971 of a population; in the landward part of the
parish 2073 houses and 11,481 inhabitants. In 1871 the parliamentary
burgh had 1167 houses with 13,488 inhabitants; the suburban portion 287
houses and 873 inhabitants; and the landward parts 1050 houses and a
population of 7081. In 1861 the total population was 20,554. The surface
is moderately even, with a gradual ascent of 600 to 700 feet above the
sea-level toward the centre of the parish. It is described in the Old
Statistical Account as " a perfect garden of nature," which seems now an
exaggeration, though the parish, with the exception of a few barren
hills, is moderately well cultivated. The principal wealth is in
minerals, the seams of coal being 9 to 11 feet thick, with ironstone,
lime, and freestone in some places. In and near Airdrie are excellent
mineral springs. The parish is traversed by the middle road from Glasgow
to Edinburgh ; also by the Caledonian and Monkland Railways, which have
stations at Airdrie, and by the Monkland Canal. This was formed in 1790,
and is 12 miles long, going from Airdrie to the Forth Canal at Port
Dundas on the Clyde. It rises 96 feet with eight locks, and falls 21
feet with two locks; and has a reservoir of 300 acres in the parish. New
Monkland at a remote period belonged to the monks of Newbattle Abbey.
Old Monkland, 10 miles in length by 4½
in extreme width, and with an area of 10,935 acres and a valuation of
£167,583 2s. 6d., includes the towns of Coatbridge, Calderbank,
Baillieston, part of Tollcross, and the villages of Braes, Carmyle,
Bargeddie, Cairnhill, Causewayside, Dundyvan, New Dundyvan, Langloan,
Faskine, Greenend, Barackine, Craigend, Merrystone, West Merrystone,
Swinton, Coatdyke, Gartcloss, Gartsherrie, Sum-inerlee, Foxley,
Broomhouse, and Dykehead. In 1881 the population was as follows: —

In 1861 the population was 29,543.
The surface is moderately even, and diversified with
orchards and thriving plantations. The soil is generally fertile, and is
much improved by good cultivation. The parish abounds in coal,
ironstone, and freestone, all of which are worked to a considerable
extent. There are potteries, bleachfields, muslin weaving mills, and
dye-works, but the chief industry is connected with the collieries and
mines. Sixty years ago the parish was a rural district; now it is in one
of the richest mining localities in Scotland. The principal foundries
are Gartsherrie, Dundyvan, Monkland, Calder, Clyde, Summerlee, Carnbrae,
and Langloan,
Hamilton parish, about 6 miles square, with an area
of 14,243 acres, and a valued rent of £115,704, 17s., contains the town
of Hamilton, a parliamentary burgh and burgh of barony, besides
Ferniegair and Larkhall. Subjoined are the statistics of the
population:—

The municipal boundary was extended in 1878. The
total population in 1861 was 14,047.
A clay soil prevails in the uplands, but in the lower
districts the soil is of average quality and well cultivated. The river
Clyde forms part of the north-eastern boundary, and is here joined by
the Avon, which crosses the south-east of the parish. Some small
tributaries of these rivers, abounding with fish, issue from the hills
and traverse the parish in different directions. Limestone, freestone,
whinstone, and fuller's earth are worked, and iron ore and coal are
found.
Previous to the reign of Robert
II. the whole parish was named Cadzow or Cadyow, but the land was
acquired by Sir Walter de Hamildon or Hamilton of Hambleton in
Leicestershire, a descendant of the first Earl of Leicester, who changed
its name to Hamilton. The old village of Netherton was superseded by
Hamilton, which was erected a burgh of regality in 1548, but did not
obtain the parliamentary franchise till 1832, when it was joined with
Airdrie, Lanark, Falkirk, and Linlithgow. The manufacture of lace was
formerly carried on, but it has been superseded by muslin weaving,
cambric spinning, and the manufacture of hosiery. There are likewise
some handicrafts, such as shoemakers, colliers, nailers, and lace
printers.
Not far from the town is Hamilton Palace, a seat of
the Dukes of Hamilton and Brandon, situated in a finely timbered park
formerly called the Orchard. In the same neighbourhood are Cadzow Old
Castle, once a residence of the early Scottish kings, and Chatelherault
Castle, built by Adams in imitation of Chatelherault, in Poitou, which
Henry II. of France gave with a ducal title to
the Earl of Arran. In the park are oak trees said to be the largest in
Scotland, as also a herd of cattle, believed to be a remnant of the wild
animals that once roamed through the Caledonian Forest. By the historian
Boethius, translated by Sir John Bellenden, the ancient breed is
described as follows:—"In this wood were sometimes white bulls, with
crisp and curling manes, like fierce lions; and though they seemed weak
and tame in the remanant figure of their bodies, they were more wild
than any other beasts, and had such hatred against the society and
company of men that they never came in the woods or lesuries where they
found any foot or hand thereof, and many days afterwards they ate not of
the herbs that had been touched or handled by man. These bulls were so
wild that they were never taken but by slight and crafty labour, and so
impatient that after they were taken they died from insupportable
dolour. As soon as any man invaded these bulls, they rushed with such
terrible press upon him that they struck him to the earth, taking no
fear of wounds, sharp lances, or other most penetrative weapons." The
bulls in Hamilton Park resemble the ancient denizens of the Caledonian
Forest in having a white colour with black muzzles, and a black mane
about two or three inches long, and they are fierce, but not so terrible
as one might infer from the description quoted above. The average weight
of those animals is 60 to 80 stones, and the flesh is of excellent
flavour and finely marbled. Some of the bones dug up in Scottish peat
mosses represent a larger style of animal than those now existing.
Blantyre, west of Hamilton, and on the south bank of
the Clyde, is a level and fertile district, well sheltered by higher
grounds. The parish includes the villages of Blantyre, Auchen-raith,
Auchintibber, Barnhill, Hunthill, and Stonefield. The area of the parish
is 3954 acres, the valuation £40,338. In 1881 the number of inhabited
houses in Stonefield town was 784 and the inhabitants 4511; in the
landward district 1027 houses and 5249 inhabitants. The total number of
houses was 1811, and of inhabitants 9760 ; in 1871 the houses were 335,
and the inhabitants 2472. In 1861 the population was 3092. There is
cotton manufacture, which gives employment to about 900 persons. The
district contains ironstone and limestone. There is a mineral well in
the parish, the water of which is efficacious in curing certain skin
affections. In the parish is Erskine House, a seat of Lord Blantyre.
The lower ward is small in dimensions, but of great
importance, lying as it does immediately round the city of Glasgow.
Carmunnock parish is on the east side of the White Cart, the banks of
which are beautifully wooded, and has an elevated surface diversified by
hill and dale. Cathkin braes, 500 feet above the sea level, commands a
rich and varied prospect, extending to Arthur's Seat, the Pentland
Hills, Ben Ledi in Perthshire, and the peaks of Arran and Argyllshire.
The parish contains coal, ironstone, and limestone, The village of Busby
is partly in the parish, and it includes also the village of Carmunnock.
The area of the parish is 3479 acres. In 1881 the inhabited houses were
146, and the inhabitants 722; in 1871 the houses were 116 and the
inhabitants 702. In 1861 the population numbered 734.
On the west bank of the Clyde, beautifully
diversified with hill and dale, is the parish of Cambuslang. The area of
the parish is 5160 acres, the valuation £66,695. Dechmont hill rises to
a height of 600 feet; and Turnlea hill forms a ridge about half a mile
broad, from which the land declines gently, with many beautiful
swellings to the Clyde, now 200 to 250 feet in width, and the Calder,
which bound the parish for several miles. Some small streams, such as
the Kirk Burn, Newton Burn, and Cocks Burn flow through the parish into
the Clyde and the Calder. The parish is part of the great coal basin of
the Clyde, and freestone also abounds. The villages of East Coats, West
Coats, Sauchie Bog, Silver-bank, Lightburn, and Kirkhill are inhabited
almost wholly by colliers and weavers. In 1881 there were in the town
1092 inhabited houses, and 5538 inhabitants, in the landward district
697 houses and 3909 inhabitants. In 1871 there were in the town 214
houses and 2104 inhabitants, and in the landward district 296 houses and
1636 inhabitants. In 1861 the population was 3647.
On the left bank of the Clyde, opposite the Barony
parish of Glasgow, and on the lower slope of the Cathkin hills, 3 miles
long by 1½ in width, with an area of 2151
acres and a valuation of £27,199, is Rutherglen, a parish well
cultivated and containing many fine villas. There is abundance of coal
and freestone in the parish. The burgh, which now consists of one well
paved street, was at one time a place of great
importance; and, in the twelfth century, Glasgow was included in its
municipal boundaries. Rutherglen was privileged to send one member to
the Scottish Parliament; and at the time of the union in 1707 it shared
with Glasgow, Renfrew, and Dumbarton the right of sending a member to
the imperial legislature. The parish was conspicuous for an improvement
of one important implement of husbandry, and Rutherglen ploughs became
well known all over the west country. The style of construction was
designed by Lady Stewart of Coltness, a great promoter of agricultural
progress. The parish is likewise well known for the superior breed of
west country horses reared within it, and the large numbers sold
annually at its spring fairs. The town was at one time notable for the
baking of sour cakes, and the making of salt roasts, previous to St
Luke's fair; and a sour cream with a peculiar gout was made in
the burgh and sold in Glasgow, but these industries have fallen into
disuse. The trade on the river which once existed has now been absorbed
by Glasgow, and the people are now employed chiefly in weaving muslins
for Glasgow houses, in a cotton mill, and in print and dye works.
Subjoined are the statistics of population:—

Cadder, a parish 14 miles long with an average width
of 4 miles, an area of 13,969 acres, and a valuation of £52,048, 2s.
4d., extends along the northern boundary of the county,
adjoining-Dumbarton and Stirlingshire, and has a considerable variety of
surface. The river Kelvin, nearly parallel with the Forth and Clyde
canal, bounds the parish on the north. The Edinburgh and Glasgow
Railway, with the Kirkintilloch and Garnkirk lines, intersect the
parish. Freestone and limestone abound, and there are large fields of
fire-clay on the lines of Garnkirk Railway. The parish contains the
villages of Auchenairn, Gadder, Bishop-briggs, Auchenloch, Chryston
Muirhead, Mudiesburn, and Mollendinarburn. In 1881 the population was
6965, the inhabited houses 1345 ; of which 105 houses and 573
inhabitants were in Kirkintilloch and Lenzie. In 1871 the houses were
868 and the population 6430, of which only 11 houses and 81 inhabitants
were in Kirkintilloch and Lenzie. In 1861 the population was 5948.
The remainder of the county is made up of Govan, a
portion of Cathcart, and the City and Barony parish of Glasgow. Govan is
on the left bank of the Clyde, with an area of 6733 acres, and a
valuation of £620,676, 3s, 8d. The surface is flat, and consists chiefly
of a rich fertile soil. The interior is traversed by the roads from
Glasgow to Paisley, and from Glasgow to Kilmarnock and Ayr, as well as
by the Glasgow and Johnstone canal, a branch of the Forth and Clyde
canal, and by two lines of a railway. Connected with the town are
shipbuilding yards, dye-works, silk and cotton manufactories, corn,
snuff, chip, and paper mills, besides other manufacturing
establishments. A valuable coal-field is extensively worked in the
parish; and there are large iron-works and blast-furnaces near Gorbals.
Cathcart is a fertile parish, the northern boundary of which approaches
Glasgow, but the census returns show that only 31 houses and 188
inhabitants of the parish were in Lanarkshire in 1881, and only 25
houses with 167 inhabitants ten years before. The Barony parish has an
area of 14,926 acres. Subjoined is the population of these parishes:—

Most of the farms in the parishes of Cadder, the
Barony, and others exhibit a combination of arable with dairy farming;
and the stock consists chiefly of Ayrshire cows and Clydesdale horses.
Farms are generally well managed, and several are conducted on
principles of tidy agriculture unsurpassed in any part of the country.
Among others may be noticed those of High Carntyne, Bruchley, and
Gairbraid. Loehburn, and Westfield, held in one tenancy, have been noted
during many years for the stud of Clydesdale horses. The soil on
Westfield is open and free. Cawdercuilt, on the outskirts of the county,
is held along with Blackhall. In 1881 a great part of it was re-drained.
In some parts the surface soil is mossy, but generally it is a good,
deep, earthy loam. A superior class of Clydesdale mares is kept on these
farms. Cawdercuilt is the largest dairy farm in the district, and has a
stock of 80 to 90 cows, of which the produce is sold as sweet milk. Ten
or twelve years ago the practice was to make butter, but the high price
now paid for sweet milk in Glasgow has' led to a change, and the sale of
sweet milk is the mode of working now generally adopted in the whole
district within easy reach of the city. Thirty years ago there was on
Blackhill a swamp which, in wet weather, became a loch, but this has all
been drained and levelled up, and now forms excellent pasture. The two
farms of Balmuildys are of average merit. Mr M'Farlane, who occupies one
of them, has a good reputation for making butter, and has been awarded
premiums at Glasgow Show. Much of the land about Lambhill is moss, but
in some cases this has been made up and stiffened by mixing it with a
good deal of blaze or the burned refuse of coal pits. In Cadder parish
generally the soil is a stiff clay. The most friable is on the farms of
Milton and East Cadder, where good crops are produced. Lochfaulds is
tenanted by the Carron Company, and is susceptible of improvement as
regards steading and drainage. Fences in the district are fair, but
hedges are often ragged, and patched with paling. Cadder wilderness, at
the back of Hilton, contains 100 acres of plantation. There are also
beltings of wood in the parish, and most of the farm steadings are
surrounded with a few trees. Fields throughout the parish are not
generally steep, but in some parts there are undulations which make a
degree of stiffness in the ascent. The land is very heavily manured,
and, after being drained a first and a second time, was more productive
than it has become now. Prior to the advent of the potato disease the
average yield of that crop per imperial acre was about 18 tons of
potatoes; and from 1836 to 1845 it was one of the most profitable crops.
Tenants are obliged to farm better than they did
twenty-five years since, and to meet the exigencies of higher rents and
increased expenses every inch of land must be utilised to the utmost.
One great advantage possessed by tenants near Glasgow is the facility
for obtaining manure. Those who are nearest the city have the dung
carted to their farms, others who have stations convenient get it by
rail, while a few on the canal banks have it brought in barges. It is
calculated that the best manure costs 10s. a ton by the time it is laid
on the soil, and the quantity applied is sometimes 40 tons an acre.
Another advantage is the opportunities for getting produce sold. The
demand for milk is practically unlimited, and one great object of
farmers near Glasgow is to increase the supply. It is not considered
that dairy stock in the district round Glasgow has improved in the past
twenty-five years. Farmers are now obliged to feed very high, and in
every way increase the quantity of milk produced. In order to keep up
the supply contracted for the animals are unnaturally forced, with
results pernicious alike to the individual animal and to the breed, as
the system of the cows is impaired. Quey calves are kept every year in
the proportion of about 10 to every 50 or 20 to every 90 cows; the
remainder are sold to butchers for about 10s. each. Cows do not now last
so long as they did formerly, nor do they calve quite so early, and they
are rather larger in size. The best feeding material for milk cows is
found to be draff, bean meal, and thirds, mixed with turnips in their
season. Each cow gets 8 to 10 lbs. of bean meal per day. No farmer now
sells sweet milk retail in the streets; it is all sold wholesale to city
dairies.
The compact is made between the farmer and the
dairyman for a year, and the average price is 9½d.
to 10d. per imperial gallon. Prior to the bringing in of milk by railway
a higher price was obtained, but the price in the neighbourhood of the
city was reduced when a supply could be obtained by railway from a
distance. In order to maintain an equal supply cows must be bought in at
all seasons, and winter milkers must be got as early as August. For late
calving cows as much as £18 to £20 must be given, and those are
afterwards fattened for the butcher. The price obtained for the fed
animal has fallen a little since the introduction of the American meat
supply. If farmers contract to maintain a constant supply of sweet milk
it is difficult for them to rear calves, and the most successful
breeders are those who make butter and sell sour milk. In 1850 the price
realised for fresh butter was about 9d. a pound ; for the last ten years
it has averaged from 1s. 6d. to 1s. 8d. A ready demand for butter milk
is found in the streets of Glasgow and suburbs. The usual price is 1d.
per 10 gills.
Much land in the neighbourhood of Glasgow has been
improved within a comparatively recent period. Land that was covered
with heather forty years since is now under cultivation; and rents have
doubled within that period. Draining with stones was practised before
tiles came into use; and a cart-load of stones was calculated to fill
two yards of a drain. Much land has been drained a second and even a
third time since then. Extensive improvements were effected on Hilton
farm during the tenancy of the late Mr Alexander Murdoch, which began 35
or 36 years ago. Cadder Moss, containing 30 or 40 acres, was reclaimed
by the Cadder estate proprietors, and now forms part of Crossbill farm
let at 25s. an acre. Other mosses were drained on what are now the farms
of Lochgrogg, Littlehill, and Crosshill. Light, easy soil predominates
all along the slope extending from the centre of Cadder parish to
Balmuildy, and the earliest farms in the parish are those on the
Kirkintilloch border. The general rule of cropping on the Cadder estate
is the six shift rotation, consisting of two years in grass, then oats,
green crop, oats or wheat according as the soil is clay or moss, and
lastly rye grass, with clover when it is intended for hay, or Timothy
when it is for pasture. In some of the new leases the four year rotation
is allowed, and where no dairy is kept the farms are generally wrought
on this principle.
Farm Buildings, Machinery, Implements.
For considerably over half a century the Highland
Society has given great attention to farm buildings. In 1831 twelve
plans were published, which had been prepared by Mr Waddell,
Berwickshire, an architect of great experience, with the co-operation of
a committee of Directors of the Society. A general principle was adopted
that the most convenient arrangement of the out-houses of a farm is in
the form of a rectangle, the side to the south being open, and the farm
house placed at some convenient distance in front of it. Much has been
spoken and written, and a good deal done in connection with the matter.
since then, but the quadrangular form, modified according to
circumstances, has continued to prevail. In building new steadings,
regard is ha | |