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Transactions of the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland
The Agriculture of the County of
Dumbarton |
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By John M'Neilage, Fernburn, Kilcreggan.
[Premium—Twenty Sovereigns.]
Dumbartonshire is a small county, lying chiefly on
the western seaboard of Scotland. Though twenty-fifth in respect of
size, it is one of the first Scottish counties in respect of interest
and importance, possessing as it does features of note for intelligent
men of every class. To the historian, it presents, besides much else,
clear intimation of Roman supremacy and civilisation; to the geologist,
it exhibits a variety of rock formations, and one or two special
phenomena, such as Dumbarton Castle rock and the ancient sea-margins of
Roseneath and Cardross. The economist can find in it an epitome of all
the industries; the tourist will remember it as the county of Loch Long
and Loch Lomond; and the agriculturist will be interested to note that
it combines, as perhaps no other county does, three principal branches
of his profession, viz., sheep, dairy, and arable farming. It is chiefly
in the last capacity that we mean to treat of the shire at present. Our
purpose is, to give an account of the various modes of farming pursued
within it, and report on the progress made by the agricultural and other
industries during the last five-and-twenty years. To this end, we will
commence with a few general notes and statistics. The county covers,
exclusive of water and foreshores, a space of 154,542 acres, and
comprises twelve parishes. Unlike most other counties, it is not an
undivided whole, but consists of two portions, removed apart six miles.
The western, or principal portion, containing ten parishes, lies along
the waters of the River and Firth of Clyde. In shape it
rudely resembles a segment of a circle, cut off by an irregular broken
line; and in length, between extremes, it measures about 35 miles, in
breadth 18 miles. Its boundaries are - on the
north, Perthshire; on the east, Stirlingshire and Loch Lomond; on the
south, Lanarkshire, and the River and Firth of Clyde; and on the west,
Loch Long and Argyllshire. Of the 138 miles, which measure the bounds of
its landward portion, 82 are along water—a circumstance having an
important agricultural bearing, as it infers a great part of the land to
lie on the slope, and, in so far as the water is sea-water, it implies
an amelioration of the winter climate.
The eastern, or smaller division of the county,
containing two parishes, is an irregular, somewhat oblong tract of land,
covering 19,030 acres; its length 12 miles, and its breadth averaging 4½
miles. Its boundaries are—Stirlingshire and Lanarkshire, the
former enclosing on the north, the latter on the south.
Geology, &c.—The county is one which presents
both Highland and Lowland scenery in their perfection. The two northern
parishes are little else than a region of lofty rugged mountains and
wild glens, forming a landscape which has much wild grandeur, but little
of a pleasant green nature on its face. The southern division presents a
striking contrast, being altogether of a lower, greener, and more
undulating character. The reason for this contrast must be sought for in
the geological history of the two divisions. The northern one,
comprising Arrochar, Luss, and a great part of Row and Roseneath
parishes, is the oldest; and consists of mica schist, which apparently
has at one time been upheaved by violent volcanic pressure, and
subsequently subjected to glacial and other powerful watery influence,
giving it the wild ridge and valley aspect it now has.
The valleys run from north-west to south-east.
Between Tarbet and Luss, dikes of greenstone, felspar, and porphyry have
been thrust through seams in the mica schist. Clay beds, formed at the
same time as the schist rocks, from the more finely ground particles of
the original granite, afterwards became, by the action of pressure and
heat, the slate formations of Luss and Roseneath.
The southern portion of the county, divided from the
northern by a line drawn from the south-west corner of Roseneath to a
little north of Ross Point on Loch Lomond, belongs mostly to a later
formation, viz., the sandstone. This formation produces a much less
steep and rugged landscape than the other; and the eye can easily
detect, by the change from wild heath and abrupt slopes to green fields
and gentle undulations, where the schist of the north gives place to the
sandstone of the south. The parishes included in this latter formation
are Cardross, Bonhill, Kilmaronock, Dumbarton, West Kilpatrick, and part
of
East Kilpatrick. Between the schist and the sandstone
there intervenes a narrow stripe of transition rock, in the shape of
graywacke, which, entering the county at the south-west corner of
Roseneath, passes north-east to Rossdhu on Loch Lomond. The sandstone
reveals itself, first, in that breadth of conglomerate rock, or Old Red
Sandstone, which enters the county at the extreme south-east of
Roseneath, and passes north-east parallel to the graywacke, including in
its area great part of Cardross, Row, and Bonhill parishes. The hill of
Ardmore, in Cardross, lies on the southern boundary of this formation;
it takes in the Killeter range on the north; and the island of
Inchmurrin, in Loch Lomond, is also part of it. Proceeding south, and
above the Old Red, and evidently distinct from it, we find abundance of
various kinds of sandstone. In Kilmaronock, both grey edge freestone and
flag freestone prevail. The whole eastern section of Cardross lies on
that red sandstone, whereof great part of the Vale of Leven towns are
built. Quarries for building material are found at Dalreoch and Renton.
In East and West Kilpatrick yellow sandstone underlies great part of the
soil, existing, not in a uniform mass, but revealing itself here and
there.
In this quarter the sandstone has been rent and
overlaid by the trap rocks, forming the Kilpatrick Hills. The same rock
seems also to be found in Duncryne Hill in Kilmaronock, and Dumbarton
Castle rock—those huge cones rising so solitarily from the surrounding
plains. The eastern wing of East Kilpatrick, and the whole eastern
division of the county, belong to the Coal Measures. Limestone,
whinstone, coal, bituminous shale, and small beds of ironstone are found
in these districts. Cumbernauld parish is formed of a series of ridges
of trap rock, running from east to west in parallel lines; a
considerable quantity of yellow sandstone is also found within it.
It is computed that there are in Dumbartonshire
99,400 acres of mountain land. The rest of the county is divided among
the several soils as follows :—Loam, 6050 acres; clayey soil, 30,970
acres; sandy or gravelly soil, 25,520 acres; peat soil, 720 acres : and
a very little marl.
Climate.—With respect to the meteorology of the
shire, we regret our inability to give any statistics or scientific
information; but, of the main section it may, we think, be affirmed that
it is moderately fortunate, both as regards heat and moisture. It is
pretty well sheltered from the east winds, which are so detrimental on
the opposite coast; and though its situation on the western seaboard
exposes it to moist winds from the Atlantic, yet this is not without its
compensating circumstances. For, if the sea occasionally causes rain in
summer, it also brings neat in winter. That season is generally
comparatively mild in all the seaward
parishes, the snow never lying long in the inhabited parts of Roseneath,
Row, and Cardross. The northern portion of the county, with its high
cloud-attracting hills and wind-swept glens, is doubtless well rained
upon, and snowstorms, when they come, are apt to be severe.
The climate of the detached section is also somewhat
less genial than in many parts of Scotland. In the Cumbernauld portion
of it especially, the temperature, owing to the height at which the
whole district stands, is generally cool; its situation also exposes it
to east winds from the one sea and west winds from the other, on which
account rainy weather is apt to be prevalent.
Population, &c.—According to the census returns
of 1881, the population is 75,333 souls, giving an average of 279
persons to the square mile. It is, however, very unevenly distributed.
The parishes of Arrochar and Luss cover more than one-third of the whole
area of the county, and yet they have but one-sixtieth part of the
population. The crowding of the inhabitants into the southern portion
is, in part, owing to the more arable and habitable nature of those
parts; but the chief reason is, of course, the extensive industries
carried on in the Vale of Leven, Dalmuir, and elsewhere. The Yale of
Leven itself contains three-eighths of the whole population.
The large population on the arable part of the shire,
and its contiguity to Glasgow, have caused a great amount of dairying to
be carried on within it. There is hardly a farmer in the southern
parishes who is wholly an arable farmer; the attention of the majority
is divided between the dairy and the field. It should be stated, that
for much of the permanent pasture, which is such a useful adjunct to a
dairy-farm, farmers of to-day, in Dumbartonshire, are indebted to the
labours of their ancestors. Steep, rocky places, which no one now thinks
of cultivating, have, in olden times, been diligently farmed.
Consequently, they now constitute good pasture land, being covered with
grass, instead of heather and sprits. In fact, traces of an anterior
cultivation are met with all through the county. On the Kilpatrick
braes, on the hillsides of Row and Roseneath, and even on the rugged
mountain slopes of Loch Long, there are patches of green, and traces of
the plough, which show the spots whence, in the middle of last century,
the household had its meal, and very often the smuggler his malt. By way
of more effectively presenting a view of the agriculture of the county,
we mean to treat of it in sections of one or two parishes each, going
over these in geographical order. In accordance with this method, we
will begin with an account of the systems of farming-pursued in
Arrochar and Luss Parishes.
The district included in these two parishes is a land
of towering-rugged mountains and remote glens—a land of wild heath and
barren rock, sparsely populated by men, but well inhabited with sheep.
Along the whole eastern side of the district lies the far-famed Loch
Lomond; and the proudest rival of Ben Lomond, to be seen for miles
around, is Ben Vorlich, in the parish of Arrochar—a mountain rising 3094
feet above the level of the sea. The parishes combined make a total of
57,676 acres—an acreage equal to more than a third part of the whole
extent of the county. Yet, from a purely agricultural view, the district
must be deemed of little importance. In Arrochar parish, arable farming
is reduced to a few inconsiderable patches about the various hotels and
sheep-farmers' houses; and in Luss, the dozen or so medium-sized farms,
from Luss village downwards to the Fruin, comprise the whole of the
arable land. The district derives the greater part of its wealth and
importance from the extensive sheep farming that is carried on within
it. All of it belongs to one proprietor (Sir James Colquhoun), and is
parcelled out into sheep-farms of various sizes, carrying-stocks ranging
from 400 to 2500 sheep.
The mountains of the district are nearly all of one
geological formation, but between one and another of them great
differences in height and external aspect are to be observed. The hills
above Luss, in particular, are lower in elevation and greener in
appearance than any of those further up. Some slopes are quite covered
with heather, giving a dark unrelieved aspect to the landscape ; while
others are so rugged and devoid of vegetation, as to suggest a doubt
whether anything can subsist upon them. However, such hills are by no
means so profitless as they appear. Innumerable shelves occur on their
rugged sides, bearing patches of good grass, quite accessible to sheep.
The greenness of some hills is, in great part, owing
to the prevalence of brackens—a species of vegetation much disliked by
the flock-owner, as it kills good grass, and is itself quite uneatable
by sheep. He would much prefer heather, as, besides allowing grass to
grow amongst it, it affords a bite to the flock in the winter and spring
months. However, the complaint is, that heather is dying out—being
allowed to grow too old. In different seasons, sheep feed on different
kinds of vegetation. In spring time, a species of bayonet grass comes
up, which, supplemented with a little sprits and young heather,
constitutes their sustenance for a time. In summer, a variety of good
grasses present themselves; and in winter, the remainders of the
summer's grass, with a free use of heather, tide the flocks over till
the spring. In the summer, the sheep sleep on the mountain tops, and in
the morning may be seen running down in a body to commence feeding on
the lower slopes. Working, or rather eating their way up, they are found
near the hilltops in the heat of the day, because there they enjoy
greater freedom from flies. In winter, they haunt the lower slopes of
the hills.
A curious fact in the natural history of sheep, is
the attachment they have to their own hillside, and the sagacity with
which they can distinguish it from any other. Lambs that have only been
six months on the ground, and then have spent other six months wintering
in remote regions, on returning to their native farm, in a short time
find their way back each one to his original spot. It is probably very
much owing to this characteristic that a flock always divides itself
into distinct lots or companies. On no farm of any extent does the whole
body of the sheep mass together, and range the pasture promiscuously.
Every flock naturally divides into as many distinct companies as there
are separate hillsides on the farm. These detachments of sheep are
called "hirsels;" and on the same hillside will the same "hirsel" be
found grazing day after day, the members of it hardly ever wandering,
though unconfined on all sides. If they do stray, the ease with which
they can be ordered into their proper places proves the strength of this
preference for their native spot. The shepherd merely gives a loud
whistle in the hearing of the wanderers, and immediately each one,
alarmed, moves off, and makes straight for his own grazing ground. This
circumstance, and the fact that the hill which sheep are lambed upon, is
the one on which they will best thrive, also gives rise to another
noticeable feature of sheep-farming, viz., that however often a farm
changes its tenant, it hardly ever changes its stock. The same stock, or
its descendants, is found year after year on a farm, though meanwhile
perhaps two or three different occupiers have held it. An incoming
tenant always takes over the existing stock at a valuation, and
experience has proved this to be the only advisable plan. We have heard
of a case in which the new tenant, thinking the valuation too high,
preferred to stock the farm with animals from the outside; but the
mortality among the new comers was so great, as clearly to prove the
danger of transplanting sheep to a strange hillside. Such facts are
perhaps familiar to all acquainted with sheep-farming; but as they are
interesting in themselves, and may possibly prove new to some readers,
we think they should find a place here.
Sheep stocks in this district range, as we have said,
from 400 to 2500 in number—from 1200 to 1400 being an average stock; and
as for the breed of sheep in vogue, it is, of course, the "Blackfaced"
all over. One or two of the stocks are of the ewe kind, but all the rest
are mixed ewe and wether stocks, from some of which part of the wether
lambs are sold. A few of the tups are reared at home, but the majority
are bought in at the autumn sales, from breeders in Campsie, Fintry, and
the south generally. They are sent to the hill about the 24th of
November —one tup to thirty ewes being the proportion generally
observed. Tupping time is a very taxing season to the shepherds, who
must be on the hill every day regulating matters. Sometimes a ram
wanders away in the night time to a neighbouring flock, causing the
shepherd a long journey and much trouble to bring him back. For fear of
breeding in, tups are not used more than two seasons on the same
hillside, and after another two years on a different hillside, their
place is filled with fresh comers. After tups are taken from the hill,
they are fed on oats and Indian corn on the low grounds. A period of
calm weather and frost is much desired by flockmasters at tupping time,
as the contrary circumstances have an effect in rendering the ewes
barren. A proportion of barren ewes there always is, especially among
the young ones or "gimmers;" but at speaning time, a result of three
lambs to four ewes is usually obtained. Young ewes begin to bear at two
years old. Draft ewes in this district are not sent away at any
particular age; but after their fourth crop of lambs is perhaps the
commonest time. Lambing time comes on about the middle of April, and
constitutes another anxious season to the shepherds, who, for the space
of a fortnight, can hardly ever be off the hill. The wether lambs are
cut between the 20th and 30th of May, and speaning time for all the
lambs is about the end of August.
From that period onwards till the end of October, a
great exodus of sheep stock goes on throughout the district. First comes
the departure of the wether shot lambs. These seldom go to the butcher,
but are sold through the medium of the Perth sales, the Glasgow market,
and sometimes by private bargain, to farmers and graziers, who buy in
every year to keep up a flying stock. Until recently a fair was held at
Luss in the end of August, at which great numbers of these lambs were
disposed of; but the growing popularity of Perth and other sales has
caused this fair to become extinct.
A great departure of three-year old wethers next
takes place throughout the district. On some of the smaller farms these
are sold off all at once; but on the larger farms they go away in lots,
according as they come into condition for the market. The majority of
these find their way, via Balloch, to the Glasgow market, and are
mostly bought up by fleshers in town. Last year (1883) they drew 37s.
per head or thereby; twenty-five years ago their price was 10s. less.
Draft ewes are disposed of through the same medium, and soon are
distributed throughout those numerous Lowland farms, whence cross lambs
are supplied to the spring and summer markets. The last great detachment
of sheep stock which leaves this district consists of hoggs going away
to winter quarters. The inclemency of the weather on these mountain
sides necessitates the removal of the tenderer members of the flock to
more genial regions during the cold months.
About the end of October, most of the hoggs are
drafted off to moor edges in Stirlingshire, vacant pastures in
Lanarkshire, Renfrewshire, &c, and especially to Fife. This last-named
shire has been a good deal run upon of late years as a place of
wintering for hoggs. Compared with other districts, it has been found
greatly more healthy, the mortality there being not much over half what
it is in other parts.
Hoggs in the lower portion of the district are
despatched by train from Balloch; those in the upper regions are driven
to Crianlarich, on the Callander and Oban line, and thence trucked to
winter quarters. Each hogg, between travelling expenses and payment for
its keep from 1st November till 1st April, costs the farmer about 7s.
This charge forms a very heavy item in the flock-owner's yearly
expenditure. Fife hoggs go away about the middle of October.
Clipping and dipping are important operations on a
sheep farm. Clipping begins about the 17th of June for hoggs, wethers,
and yeald ewes; milk ewes are not clipped till a month later. Of wether
fleeces, a good clipper will accomplish about sixty in a day, beginning
at nine o'clock and ending at six; of milk ewe fleeces, ten more, on
account of the better rise of new wool to be found on them. The average
yield of wool is 4½ wether fleeces and 6 ewe
fleeces respectively to the stone of 24 lbs.
The wool is generally sold on commission by a
wool-broker in Glasgow. Dipping operations are performed about the end
of October. This method of preserving sheep from disease and vermin has,
in Dumbartonshire, almost wholly superseded smearing. Dipping
compositions of several kinds are used, varying in strength according to
the height at. which the sheep will range. The operation is performed in
a large trough, at the upper end of which is an inclined platform,
sparred to prevent the hoofs from slipping. On this platform the sheep
run up after being dipped, and while there all the superfluous drippings
run off and flow back into the trough. Milk ewes and wethers are dipped
once a year; but lambs get a dip or two more, being dipped when speaned
in August, and then again in October, and generally again when they
return from winter quarters. Into the October dip of lambs a half pound
of grease is put, as a protection from cold. Clipping and dipping being
times when all the flock are supposed to be present, an opportunity is
then taken of counting them over, and these are the only times when the
numbers of large flocks are accurately known.
A bill of mortality, which never fails to be filled
up, tends to make this counting a lighter task than it would otherwise
be. All the year round, causes are at work which produce a death-rate in
the flock. About the month of October, and even earlier, the disease
called "braxy" begins to attack the lambs. This disease is supposed to
be brought on most frequently by eating grass covered with hoar frost.
About 2 lambs in 20 are lost by it before going to wintering, and at
winter quarters still further losses are sustained—1 lamb in 20 being
generally sacrificed to "braxy" in Fifeshire, and perhaps double that
number in other places. In the springtime, when dry east winds prevail,
the disease called "trembling" usually sets in, and takes off its quota
; and on every extensive farm a number of sheep are lost every year,
nobody knows how, only the numerous bogs, caverns, and swollen burns,
which exist in these mountain districts, supply a likely explanation.
Upon the whole, a frosty winter is better for sheep than an open one,
for supposing they grow lean, their health remains more firm; whereas in
some of the wet stormy winters we have had of late years, the mortality
among every kind of stock has been such as to swallow up all the profit,
and make sheep-farming a failure.
The extensive sheep-farming of this district is not
carried on without a good deal of hired assistance. On some smaller
holdings the farmer is his own shepherd; on some larger ones, he and his
sons are equal to the task of management; but in the generality of
cases, one or two hired shepherds are employed. These are partly
married, and partly single. The first named are paid at the rate of from
£12 to £20 a year, with from one to three cows, and generally leave to
rear a stirk; also an allowance of meal, and if peats are not to be had,
also coals, and liberty to plant potatoes with the cows' manure. Single
shepherds get about £12 per half year, with bed and board.
The farmers themselves are a very intelligent,
courteous class of men. Most of them take a hand in the common duties of
the farm. Rents have risen and fallen within ten years, and the rate
just now per sheep is from 3s. to 4s.
Arable Farming in Luss Parish.
At the south end of the parish, from the village of
Luss downwards, round the shoulders of the Shantron Hill, and by the
sides of the Fruin, a tract of land is found suitable for arable
farming. On the banks of the stream, and on the level tract along the
loch side, sandy alluvial soil prevails, of a fine porous nature, and
great depth, needing no drains. On the slopes of the hill above, plats
of the same soil occur, but in general the higher grounds consist of a
mixed clayey and mossy soil, on a tilly bottom. The average size of
farms is a hundred acres each; and the rotation followed is the
six-years' one. Very good crops are sometimes raised on the alluvial
lands by the Fruin.
Potatoes.—The ground there is specially well
adapted for potatoes, and 9 or 10 tons of "red bogs" is a result quite
attainable in a good year. However, "Champions" and "Walker's" earlies
are the sorts more commonly planted, with a yield in general of 6 or
7 tons per acre. A market for potatoes is found in Helensburgh and
the Vale of Leven. Except on farms which have dairies, turnips are not
much cultivated. Manure is carted from Alexandria and elsewhere, and on
some farms is liberally applied—from 25 to 30 tons an acre, with 3 or 4
cwt. chemicals being the allowance.
Oats.—"Hamilton" and "Flemish" oats are the
varieties most popular in the district. The yield varies, from 30 to 60
bushels per acre, according to the position of the field; and the weight
ranges from 36 to 41 lbs. per bushel. Wheat and barley, which were once
somewhat prevalent, have now ceased to be sown.
Hay.—Hay is a crop that yields well on the
alluvial lands by the Fruin—about 2 tons an acre being attained. The
clover thrives finely on these lands, almost choking the grass; and
subsequently the pasture proves excellent. Hay is a very saleable
commodity, there being such a number of public works, &c, in the Vale of
Leven and so many gentlemen with carriage horses in Helensburgh.
Dairying.—Dairying is carried on to some extent
on farms at the extreme south of the parish. From 12 to 20 cows are kept
on each of these, and milk is conveyed every morning to dealers in
Renton and elsewhere. The other farms keep no dairies, unless the few
milk cows necessary to supply the household can be called such. On these
farms a few young cattle are reared every year, and are readily bought
by dealers and graziers. The majority of the tenants here are sheep as
well as arable farmers, having a tract of moorland attached to their
holdings capable of carrying 300 or 400 sheep. The management of their
flocks is conducted in much the same fashion as we have described in the
preceding pages.
Roseneath and Row Parishes.
These parishes being contiguous, and possessing many
features in common, may suitably be treated of together. Roseneath is a
very compact, self-contained parish, bounded as it is on three sides by
the sea, and on the fourth or north side by a march dike between two
proprietors. It lies within a peninsula, which narrowly misses being an
island—the peninsula, namely, which separates the water of Loch Long
from those of the Gare-loch, and which, at its point of junction with
the mainland, is only a mile in breadth. The parish is in length about 7
miles, in breadth about 2 miles, and, excluding water and foreshores,
contains 8462 acres, whereof about one-fifth is arable. Physically
considered, Roseneath is a long, elevated tableland of slaty rock,
heath-covered on the higher slopes and the top, but lower down well
cultivated, and wearing a belt of green nearly all round. A portion of
the peninsula at the south end, divided off by a shallow dale, is of a
red sandstone formation. On the broad level lanks of this formation are
found Roseneath Castle, with its fine old woods and the extensive fields
and fine steading of the home farm.
This latter is the largest arable farm in
Dumbartonshire, extending to 473 acres arable, and is at present let
under a nineteen years' lease. For many years prior to 1859 this farm
was in the hands of Mr Lorne Campbell, chamberlain to His Grace the Duke
of Argyll. Mr Campbell was a first-rate agriculturist, as well as a wise
estate manager, and his name is still well remembered in the district.
He also took a somewhat prominent part in Highland and Agricultural
Society affairs, and was their enumerator for Dumbartonshire when the
Society first began to gather agricultural statistics.
Soil.—The soil on this red sandstone portion is
of a more excellent kind than prevails throughout the rest of the
parish. It is a deep, sandy soil, resting on a bottom of gravel or
conglomerate rock. Patches of clay occur at intervals through it. The
rest of the parish consists partly of a medium soil tending to clay, and
partly of a light sandy soil; both kinds of soil rather thin, and
resting sometimes on clay, but more commonly immediately on the rock.
Around the shores of the peninsula, a strip of sharp land is found very
suitable for green crop. One of the best farms in the parish, viz., the
"Clachan," is largely composed of this soil. Much of it, however, has
been taken away from the other farms by the growth of the coast villages
of Kilcreggan, Cove, Clynder, and Peaton.
Row parish is about 8 miles long and 3 miles broad,
and, excluding water and foreshores, contains 20,126 acres, of which
about one-fifth is arable. A belt of land along the Gareloch, and
another tract in the bottom of Glenfruin, comprise all that is arable in
this parish. The remainder, constituting four-fifths or thereby of the
whole, is unreclaimed heath, suitable for sheep.
Soil—-The soil on the arable lands of the
Gareloch is, toward the north, of a medium kind, upon a bottom of blue
clay; southward, about the town of Helensburgh, stiffer soil occurs,
resting partly on till and partly on grey freestone. The shore lands are
of a genial, sandy nature, but the extensive feuing consequent upon the
growth of Helensburgh and Row village has rendered these lands almost
wholly unavailable for farming purposes. Agriculture, therefore,
confined to the uplands, has been somewhat less happily situated,
especially as regards green crop. However, a compensation for this is
found in the good market for dairy produce, which such places as
Helensburgh and Row have opened up.
In Glenfruin, a considerable tract of deep alluvial
soil is met with. Sharp, light soil, on a gravel and till bottom,
constitutes the remainder of the arable portion. The greater part of the
land in this district is valued at 20s. per acre, the best land rising
in value to £3 or thereby. Farms commonly range from 90 to 190 acres
arable.
The six-years' rotation is the general estate rule,
and is followed with such variations as are common in these times. On a
great number of farms, not only arable and dairy, but also sheep
farming, is carried on; a piece of moorland, capable of grazing from
three to four hundred sheep, being attached to the holdings.
Oats.—"Hamilton," "Potato," and "Sandy" oats are
the kinds prevalent in the district. About 4 bushels are taken to seed
an acre, new seed being usually brought in every second or third year.
To encourage crop at starting, and obviate danger of the grub-worm, one
farmer top-dresses with ½ cwt. nitrate
and salt per acre; and another harrows his ground level before sowing,
and afterwards top-dresses with ammonia and nitrate. On the best farms
48 bushels per acre of a crop is realised; on the others from 12 to 20
bushels less. The weight varies from 37 to 42 lbs. per bushel. In Row
parish the bulk of the thrashing is done by the travelling mill. Into
Roseneath this institution has not yet penetrated, the principal farmers
there having good mills of their own. A considerable quantity of the
grain is sold as horse corn; a part of it is also milled, and some meal
sold. The smaller farmers have not generally much straw to sell, but a
good deal of this commodity is disposed of by the larger farmers to
gentlemen with carriage horses, and others.
Wheat.—Wheat is a very scarce grain in the
district. It is perhaps not found statedly on any save the Roseneath
home and "Clachan" farms, where very good crops of it are raised.
Hay.—Sowing for this crop takes place on some
farms about a week after oat sowing, when seed—to the amount of 2
bushels perennial rye-grass and 5 or 6 lbs. clovers—is put in. " Timothy
" meadows are becoming somewhat common, the unprofitableness
of green cropping inducing a number of farmers to
devote areas of their land to the raising of successive crops of Timothy
grass. One farmer's method is to clean his ground very thoroughly, then
sow it down with Italian and Timothy seeds, including clovers, crop for
three or four years in succession, top-dressing each time with long dung
or dung and nitrate of soda. Ryegrass hay yields from 25 to 50 cwt. per
acre. This is a crop easily sold, there being such a number of carriage
and other horses kept in Helensburgh and the coast villages of the
locality.
Potatoes.—The district is now more a late than an
early growing one, so much land adapted for the latter having been taken
away by the increase of populous places. It has, however, one farm
within it long noted for early potato culture, viz., the Roseneath home
farm. Forty years ago, ere the Ayrshire early potato trade had
developed, Mr Lome Campbell, tenant of that farm, was one of the first
suppliers of potatoes to the early market in Greenock. Every year he had
smacks regularly plying to convey potatoes from the field to the town.
These were retailed from the boat-side. In the year 1849 or 1850, off a
14 acre field, Mr Campbell's drawings grossed £560 or thereby. In
raising potatoes this eminent agriculturist adhered strictly to the
six-years' rotation arrangement, always making them the second crop
after lea. He never applied aught to the crop save farm-yard manure.
Under a succeeding tenant, Mr John Marjoribanks, good crops of potatoes
were also raised—12 tons per acre being not an uncommon return. Mr
Marjoribanks very often planted the crop in lea ground. He dosed it well
with bone dust and guano—applying 8 cwt. per acre, in the proportion of
2 parts bone dust to 1 of guano. Under the energetic and skilful
management of the present tenant, Mr Thomas Kerr, the farm bids fair,
seasons favouring, to sustain its former reputation in this as in other
respects. Mr Kerr uses but a small quantity of artificial stuffs,
believing firmly in the virtues of good farm-yard manure.
A considerable breadth of "Dalmahoys" and other early
sorts are found on his, and on some of the other farms in the district;
but, as we intimated, early growing is a subordinate feature of farming
here. The "Regent" and the "Champion" are now the, prevalent kinds. The
first to introduce "Champions" into Roseneath parish was Mr Robert Orr,
Meikle Aiden Farm, who, eight or nine years ago, set a few acres of
them. Since then they have become very prevalent, farmers feeling them
to be the most dependable crop they could raise. A good deal has been
done in this district in the way of planting potatoes in lea ground. One
method is, to turn the land over with the trench plough, thereby burying
the turf out of the way of the drill plough; then scatter dung upon this
ploughing, and in spring harrow over the ground, and draw drills at a
different angle. Another and speedier method is, to furrow the land very
deeply with a common plough, drawn by three horses; then broadcast dung,
&c, all as before. From 15 to 30 tons farm-yard manure, and from 5 to 8
cwt. chemicals per acre, are applied for this crop—dung being sometimes
ploughed in. Digging of early potatoes begins in the end of July;
"Champions " are not ready till the middle of October. Potatoes are
consumed in Greenock, Helensburgh, and the several villages of the
locality. Part of them are sold personally by the farmer to shops and
families, the rest being disposed of through dealers and commission
agents.
Turnips.—A great quantity of turnips are grown,
both of the "swede" and yellow varieties. In Glenfruin, however, no "swedes"
are sown. Some farmers have more turnips than potatoes, having to feed
large numbers of milk cows during the winter. On some farms turnips are
raised with short dung, of which about 20 tons an acre are allowed,
supplemented with chemicals to the amount of 5 cwt. for yellow turnips,
and 2 or 3 cwt. more for "swedes." This crop yields from 15 to 25 tons
per acre throughout the district. The "Swedish" part of the crop causes
a good deal of trouble, on account of its liability to disease after
being lifted. The method one farmer adopts, and which he finds very
successful, is to pit them with the shaws on them, taking care not to
break the skin in any way. Another plan is, to leave the crop in the
ground, and earth it up with the double-reisted plough. A few turnips
are sold off the larger farms, but in general this crop is all required
for feeding purposes.
Beans and Cabbage.—Beans are not very prevalent
as a crop. On many farms, where they have been tried, they have proved
discouraging. This is more especially the case in Rose-neath parish.
Cabbage is becoming more common, and, if set in good farm-yard manure,
thrives very well.
Manure.—Farmers get manure from Helensburgh and
Greenock. The latter is the chief resource of Roseneath farmers, the
greater number of whom import from one to five boat-loads of Greenock
dung every year. Imported city dung costs about 2s. per ton; long dung,
from 3s. to 4s. more. Considerable use is also in Roseneath parish made
of sea-ware. In tempestuous weather large quantities of it are usually
cast up on the shores opposite the several farms. Farmers in Glenfruin
drive manure from the Yale of Leven and from Helensburgh. They also
employ lime to some little extent as a top-dressing for grass.
Dairying.—Dairying is largely prosecuted in the
district. Stocks range from 15 to 30 cows. Nearly all the dairies are
engaged in supplying sweet milk to the populations of
the various towns and villages of the locality. Milk is despatched twice
a day in summer, and is usually sold to the consumer directly by the
farmer. In winter many of the milk carts go only once a day, customers
being fewer. The great body of these customers are Glasgow families on
their annual coasting sojourn, who require large quantities of dairy
produce.
The cows are out all night from the beginning of June
till the end of September. In Roseneath the method of winter feeding for
long pursued on one of the principal dairy farms was as follows:—Two hot
meals daily; a pailful each time of boiled turnips, with
¾lb. bean-meal added; also three fodder-ings
of straw and raw turnips, 5 turnips per head being allowed each time. In
summer the cattle get a bean-meal drink daily. In the Helensburgh
district a higher style of feeding is pursued, three hot meals per day
being given, with draff, cotton-cake, &c, added to the bean-meal.
From 8 to 12 quey calves are reared on most farms
every year, more rearing being done now than was fifteen years ago.
Calves get warm milk for three weeks or thereby, and thereafter skimmed
milk and linseed, or other similar food.
The moorland attached to some holdings in Roseneath
is used for no other purpose than summer grazing to stirks. A portion of
these are sold at Carman Fair, or otherwise, as three-year-old queys in
calf. Good prices are obtained for them, from £10 to £15 each being the
range. A number of them are also taken into the byre in lieu of cows
drafted out. These latter are usually sold to dealers and cowfeeders
from the city, who are always on the lookout for saleable cattle. Old
cows and cattle generally, from the Roseneath district, are preferred by
cowfeeders and others, as, from their comparatively more hardy
upbringing, they thrive better when put on richer feeding.
Sheep.—In Row parish one or two large sheep farms
are to be found, which are carried on in much the same way as has been
described in the section relating to Arrochar and Luss parishes. The
sheep stocks carried on the hill grazings attached to the arable farms
number from 150 to 400, and are mainly of the blackfaced breed. Some are
mixed ewe and wether stocks, and some are ewe stocks with Leicester
rams. The produce of these latter are, to a great extent, sold fat to
Helensburgh and other butchers, and a number of them are disposed of for
hogging purposes. On some farms "braxy" has been so virulent as to cut
off half of the lambs; and one farmer contemplates giving up sheep stock
altogether, and adopting cattle in their stead. On some farms a hundred
or so cross lambs are bought in in September, and wintered on the
foggage.
Horses.—In Row a great number of horses are bred,
every farmer rearing a foal or two in the year, and goodly number of
stud-book Clydesdales are found in the parish. In Roseneath, however,
horse rearing for a long time has been little practised. The farm horses
kept are of a mixed character, but some stables show a collection of
very strong useful animals.
Cardross Parish.
This is one of the most fertile and highly cultivated
portions of Dumbartonshire. The parish is in length 7 miles, in breadth
2 ½
miles or thereby, and, exclusive of water and foreshores, contains 8264
imperial acres, of which about three-fourths are arable. Advantageously
situated as it is for the trade of such populous places as Helensburgh,
Dumbarton, and Glasgow; its soil good, and its whole exposure sunny and
pleasant, naturally it has become a centre of busy skilful farming, and
through its length and breadth has been brought under the plough.
Its general description is that of a long tract of
level land along the Firth of Clyde, with a background of gently
ascending uplands, rising to a moderate height behind; the whole clothed
with greenness, and studded with mansions, villas, and numerous
farm-houses. The uplands are of a very undulating-nature, so much so
that on the farm of Ardoch, towards the east of the parish, there is no
single field that can be all seen at once. The scenery of the lower
portion has two striking features, viz., the hill of Ardmore, a strange
irregular headland, protruding very oddly from the main body of the
parish; and secondly, that immense breadth of land laid bare by the
receding tide. At ebb tide the waters of the Firth retire from
¼
to 1¼
mile beyond high water-mark, leaving an immense breadth of
foreshore.
By the Ordnance Survey, Cardross is stated to have
2655 acres of foreshore, while no other parish in the county has more
than 360.
Soil.—The soil of the main body of the parish is
a sandy loam of a variable depth, and a very red colour. The prevalence
of this hue is owing, no doubt, to the presence of the red sandstone
element, which formation abounds greatly in the district. All along the
shore this soil rests immediately on the sandstone, and as the fields
are very level, and the rock near the surface, drainage is a matter of
considerable difficulty. Drains, in some cases, are cut twelve inches
into the freestone. On the second tier of fields this soil becomes very
deep, and porous in the bottom, requiring comparatively little drainage;
on the uplands it is thinner, and rests on a bottom of till.
Samples of other soils are also found. Patches of
moss occur in the uplands, and patches of clay among the sandy fields of
the shore; while, towards the eastern boundary of the parish, an area of
a stiff clayey nature is found, suitable for growing beans, or for
brickmaking purposes. The average value of land is £2, 5s. per acre.
Farms range in size from 100 to 200 acres. The six-years' rotation is
the rule on some Cardross estates, but on others the tenant is not bound
to any course of cropping. On some of the best land a rotation is
pursued of two potato crops, two hay crops, and one corn crop, in the
following order:— 1st, potatoes out of lea or stubble land; 2nd, oats;
3rd, potatoes with dung; 4th, hay; 5th, hay.
Oats.—"Hamilton," "Potato," and "Sandy" oats are
the varieties chiefly grown, "Hamilton" being the favourite kind. On the
level lands seed, to the amount of 4 bushels per acre, is sown, but on
the uplands a bushel more is thought needful for a good crop. A mixture
of imported and homegrown seed in equal proportions is, in general, sown
every year; sometimes the crop is top-dressed with 3 cwt. chemicals per
acre. Harvest begins in the first week of September on lands near the
shore, on the uplands about ten days later. In an average season the
yield on the lowlands will be 48 bushels per imperial acre, on the
uplands 12 bushels less. The weight varies from 38 to 42 lbs. per
bushel. The strip of land round the corn-field, necessary to be cleared
for a roadway to the reaping-machine, is sometimes sown with vetches for
the cattle, and sometimes with an earlier kind of corn. The greater part
of the thrashing in this parish is done by the travelling mills. Farmers
in general use all their own oat straw on the premises, foddering their
dairy stock with it, and selling the greater portion of their hay. The
oats are to a considerable extent made into meal, some farmers regularly
supplying shops and private families with the commodity. A proportion
goes for horse corn, and a quantity is bought up by the local miller and
other grain merchants. A chance sample of grain comes to be sold as seed
corn.
Wheat.—A considerable breadth of wheat is grown
in the parish—chiefly on the lower grounds. Its place in the rotation is
always after the potato crop. Sometimes police manure is ploughed in as
a fertiliser for this crop. Wheat sowing takes place about the second
week of October, when from 3 to 4 bushels "Hunter's White" or
"Woolly-ear" are taken to seed an acre. Seed is imported every year.
Wheat harvest comes on about the end of August; and a crop of from 3 to
3 ½
quarters per acre,
weighing 60 lbs. per bushel, is usually realised. Sometimes the yield
reaches 6 quarters, and sometimes it falls as low as 18 bushels. Wheat
is all sold in Glasgow, either directly to a grain
merchant, or through a commission agent. Of late, the profits arising
from wheat have been very insignificant, and less of it is now grown in
this parish. The good price obtained for the straw, however, somewhat
balances the deficiency.
Hay.—This is a crop that yields well in the
district. About 2 bushels "perennial ryegrass," 5 or 6 lbs. clover seed,
and a little "Italian" per acre are commonly sown for it. It is usual to
top-dress for this crop either in winter with short dung, or in spring
with 3 cwt. hay manure, or 2 cwt. nitrate and bones per acre. Hay-making
is commenced on some of the earlier lands in the first week of July, and
the yield will average 35 cwt. per acre. A ready sale for hay is found
throughout the district; great quantities are sold off the rick to
public companies in the Vale of Leven, cowfeeders, gentlemen with
carriage horses, and others; and altogether farmers will dispose of
two-thirds of their hay. The cattle are usually put on the clover about
the begining of September. Sometimes the clover is cut, and given to
them green, and sometimes it is dried, and put up for future use.
Potatoes.—This crop is a very prominent feature
of farming in the parish. From an early period, Cardross was famed for
its potatoes, and till this day it retains its reputation as one of the
earliest potato-growing parishes north of Ayrshire. The stated place for
potatoes is the second crop of the rotation, but sometimes, in the
interests of a healthy crop, they are made the first. When planted in
lea ground, they are manured with merely 10 cwt. guano or chemicals per
acre. When potatoes are to be planted in stubble land, it is a very
usual practice to plough in from 25 to 30 tons of farm-yard manure per
acre, burying the dung only a moderate depth. In the spring time the
land is harrowed and deeply drilled, and the crop started with 10 cwt.
chemicals per acre. All the farmers believe in letting the manure lie
six weeks or thereby on the land before ploughing. Another plan is, to
plough stubble land very early, and when frosty weather comes broadcast
a like quantity of manure upon it, letting it lie there till the time
for harrowing and drilling. This system of ploughing in the dung is
becoming very prevalent, as it saves labour, and hastens on operations
in spring. Some farmers, however, adhere to the old method of putting
manure in the drills: 25 tons of long dung and 5 or 6 cwt. chemicals per
acre being the usual quantities allowed. Eight tons per acre is counted
a good return of this crop. Early potatoes are commonly ready for
digging by the middle of July. In general, all the earlies, and a great
part of the late sorts, are sold by the acre to dealers from Helensburgh,
Dumbarton, Greenock, &c.; but sometimes the farmer digs his earlies
himself, and sells them through a commission agent. "Champions" and
"Magnum Bonums" are pitted, to be sold off gradually during the winter
and spring months. Potato pits are covered—firstly, with a layer of
straw, secondly with a coating of earth, and lastly with another layer
of straw, to defend them from the rain, &c. It should be added, that the
potato culture of this parish includes the growing of all the kinds from
the earliest to the latest. "Red Bogs" and other early sorts are found
chiefly on the shore lands ; on the uplands equal proportions of
"Regents," "Champions," and "Magnum Bonums" are to be seen.
Turnips.—From 5 to 10 acres of these are grown on
farms here; but farmers on the shore lands do not sow so many as those
on the uplands. A quantity, both of "swedes" and softer turnips, are
raised. The best way to "catch a braird" is found to be by ploughing the
stubble land early in winter, and in spring working it with the grubber
two or three times. As in other places, a difficulty is found in
preserving turnips after they are out of the ground, a plan, recommended
by a farmer here, is to store them in good dry weather in a shed—putting
them up in steep pits not too wide, and covering them with a thin
coating of earth or well-drawn straw. By this means they are kept both
warm and airy, and so prevented from heating.
Beans.—On the stiff lands to the east of the
parish a few acres of these are grown. The method is to make them the
first crop of the rotation. Dung is ploughed into the lea, and the beans
are sown broadcast, harrowed, and otherwise treated the same as corn.
Sometimes they are sown in drills, and started with 8 cwt. bean manure
per acre.
Manure.—A considerable quantity of manure is made
in the various farm-yards, owing to the number of cattle kept. This is
supplemented by imported manures from Helensburgh, Dumbarton, and
especially Greenock. From this last-named place nearly every farmer
takes in three or four boat-loads of long and short dung every year. The
home manure being the richest, is applied as far as possible to the
early potato crop. Police dung, sea-ware, or compost is sometimes spread
on hay stubbles, by way of improving next year's grass.
Dairying.—Dairying is largely prosecuted in the
district. From 15 to 35 cows are kept on each farm, and the produce—
chiefly in the form of fresh butter and butter milk—is sold in
Helensburgh and Dumbarton. Some of the dairies are in the sweet milk
trade, sending that commodity to the above named towns and to Glasgow.
In summer, butter is made five times a week; in winter, only three or
four times, and is sold off the cart to shops and private families. Cows
are well fed, getting bean meal twice a day all the year round. In
winter, when housed, they get three hot meals per day, each time a
pailful of boiled turnips, mixed with bean meal and draff. Besides these
hot meals, they get three fodderings of hay or oat straw, generally with
raw turnips or potatoes superadded. On the best farms the cattle are out
for a few hours every day, even in the winter months. A considerable
amount of rearing goes on on every farm. From eight to twelve of the
best calves— calved from December to July—are reared for that purpose.
Calves get warm milk for a month, and thereafter for three or four
months a preparation of calf-meal. Many, however, still use porridge and
milk, supplemented with linseed, as a nourishment for calves. Cast cows
are usually sold to cowfeeders in Greenock and other places. They are
very often disposed of after their third calf.
Sheep, &c.—A large number of sheep and other
feeding stock are grazed in the parish. The principal sheep stock is
that of Colin Campbell, Esq. of Camieseskan, who, on the grounds of
Camieseskan House and the hill above, keeps a mixed stock of 16 score
greyfaced and 20 score Leicester sheep. For the benefit of the flock, a
tract of reclaimed land on Colgrain Hill is cropped every six or seven
years with corn, followed next year by grass and rape. This latter mixed
crop will graze twelve sheep per acre, the ordinary pasture four. At
tupping time, which comes on in the end of September, one ram to
forty-five ewes is the proportion observed. Tups are all Leicesters. At
speaning time, a result of three lambs to every two ewes is usually
obtained. The ewes are grazed up till the middle of November; from that
time till the grass is ready again, they get each ½
lb. Indian meal refuse (or as it is called "Paisley meal"), with chopped
straw and pulp turnips daily, increasing the "Paisley meal" from
½lb. to 1½ lb. when
lambing time draws near. This "Paisley meal" is found superior even to
oilcake as food for milk ewes. Lambing time comes on about the end of
February. The greyfaced tup lambs are castrated about six weeks after
birth. All the produce of the greyfaces are sold fat to the Helensburgh
butchers, beginning with those from nine to twelve weeks old. Ewes are
drafted out after their third or fourth crop of lambs, and sold by
auction at the Dumbarton weekly sales. About 110 greyfaced lambs are
bought in every year from the stock of Mr Cowan of Lurg, Fintry. The
Leicester flock at Camieseskan has long enjoyed a reputation for its
sterling qualities, and purchasers are readily found for tups and shot
lambs. The rams are sold in September, bringing good prices. Some
farmers keep a regular stock of Leicester or other sheep ; others buy in
a hundred or so greyfaced hoggs or three-year old blackfaced wethers,
putting them on the foggage, and selling them about the New Year. Scope
for feeding sheep is also found in the extensive breadths of rape and
grass which are raised off the early potato land. After that crop is
lifted in July, the ground is sown with grass and rape, which in
favourable circumstances soon springs up, and is available for pasture.
From a piece of potato land which he had sown with rape, and
subsequently pastured for four or five months with hoggs, a farmer
recently raised a crop of oats. Corn after potatoes does not usually
thrive well, but this time the yield proved excellent. The permanent
pasture of Cardross Park is under a flying stock of bullocks, and so
also is the grazing ground of one or two farms where no dairy is kept,
or where otherwise there is scope for pasturage.
Horses.—The farm horses are mostly of the
Clydesdale breed, and are a strong, handsome class of animals. A
considerable number are reared in the district, the good prices
obtainable for pure bred Clydesdales being a powerful inducement.
Other Industries.—The only other industries of
note carried on in the parish are the Turkey-red dyeing and bleaching
industries of Renton; but these will be considered under the heading
"Industries of the Vale of Leven."
Bonhill and Dumbarton Parishes.
Bonhill parish occupies a tract of land round the
south-west corner of Loch Lomond. The Vale of Leven, with its fine
breadth of level plain, runs through the centre of it, and its eastern
and western boundaries are found along the summits of the heights which
flank Loch Lomond and the Vale on either side. Great part of the ground,
therefore, lies on the slope, some of it having an eastern and some of
it a western exposure. The parish is 5 miles long and 2 miles broad,
and, excluding water, covers an area of 8373 acres, of which about
five-sixths are capable of cultivation. But a great part of the best and
most arable land is not available for agriculture. This is a parish of
public works, and great mansion-houses, where, consequently, land has
other uses to serve than the raising of crops. Of mansion-houses there
are no fewer than six within it, some of them old, all of them large,
magnificent residences standing amid extensive policies. The pleasant
situation of the parish by Loch Lomond is, no doubt, the principal
reason for such a collocation of fine mansions. Public works are found
chiefly in the Vale of Leven. There the Messrs Orr Ewing have their
large Turkey-red dyeworks. Around these and other establishments the
populous towns of Alexandria and Jamestown have sprung up, and within
the last twenty years have increased so greatly as to almost completely
absorb all the arable land in the Vale. Agriculture, therefore, driven
from the plain, has been forced to betake itself to the heights, chiefly
those of the eastern side, up which it has made surprising progress.
Soil.—The soil in the Vale of Leven, where there
still remains one large farm, is of a sharp gravelly nature, resting on
a very porous subsoil. This land requires no drains ; indeed, the
complaint is that it disposes of the moisture too quickly. The soil on
the western slopes is principally a light loam, with a clay element
through it, resting on a bottom of grey freestone. Areas both of a peaty
and a heavy clayey nature are also found. On the eastern side both grey
and red freestone prevail. In the upper regions these formations come
very near the surface, and are covered with a light sandy soil mixed
with soft earth. A dampness, caused by surface water, and by springs
bursting out of the freestone, renders some portions of these uplands
very unhealthy, so much so that grass gets choked with fog after the
first year. The highest fields have a covering of a light mossy soil,
and the lowest slopes consist of medium soil resting on a bottom of red
till.
Dumbarton is the parish immediately adjoining
Bonhill on the south-east. It lies wholly on the east side of the River
Leven. The parish is historically the most interesting, and provincially
the most important in the county, containing as it does the famous
Castle rock, and old town of Dumbarton, which is the capital of the
shire, the place where justice is dispensed and other public business
conducted. The parish is 5 miles long and 2 miles broad, and, excluding
water and foreshores, contains 8290 acres, of which something less than
a quarter is arable. The greater portion of the parish is an extensive
moor, presently under a large flock of blackfaced sheep. The arable part
is found in the Vale of Leven and on its eastern slopes.
Soil.—The soil in the Vale is a strong loam,
resting partly on sand and partly on clay—a soil different from that
which prevails at the north end of the valley, and not so suitable for
green crop. On the lower slopes light loam resting on the same subsoils
occurs, while on the uplands tracts both of heavy land and light mossy
soil are found. The value of land in the district averages £2 per acre,
the best land being rented at £3. Farms are usually about 160 acres in
extent, though some are nearly double that acreage. Both cropping and
dairying are vigorously prosecuted, the industrial towns in the vicinity
supplying a convenient market for produce. The six-years' rotation is
the formal lease regulation, but in effect no uniform course of cropping
is followed throughout the district. On some farms a five-years'
rotation is pursued; and on others an approach has been made to
continuous cropping, with the accompaniment of a very liberal
application of manure.
Oats.—"Hamilton" oats is the most prevalent kind.
In general farmers sow a mixture of home and imported seed every year,
but entirely new seed is on some farms sown every second or third year;
4 bushels per acre for the heavy land, and 5 bushels for the lighter
soils, is the amount used in sowing. To obviate the danger of the grub
worm, as well as to procure an early harvest, one farmer sows his oats
very early—about the end of February—and rolls the ground well. As a
means to the same end, some farmers harrow the ground prior to sowing
the seed. The yield varies from 42 to 60 bushels per acre, according to
soil and season, and the average weight will be 40 lbs. per bushel. On
lower farms harvest begins in the first week of September—a week later
on the uplands. A great part of the thrashing is done by the travelling
mill. Top-dressing of corn is not common, but sometimes the lea corn
crop is encouraged by ploughing in an allowance of police manure. A
great part of the corn grown in the district is consumed on the various
farms, either as meal or horse corn. Most farmers also dispose of a
little of these commodities to customers; and one farmer sells his grain
statedly for seed corn.
Wheat.—On the level lands of the Vale a
considerable amount of wheat is grown. "Hunter's White," "Woolly-ear,"
and "Squarehead" are the favourite varieties; sometimes police manure is
ploughed in for this crop. Wheat sowing takes place in the beginning of
October, when seed to the amount of 3 bushels per acre is put in. The
average yield will be 28 bushels per acre, and the weight 60 lbs. per
bushel. At the present price of wheat, one farmer means to use his
wholly for feeding purposes in the dairy. Wheat straw finds a ready
market in the district, owing to the amount of litter required for
carriage horses.
Hay.—For this crop various quantities and
proportions of seed are sown. In one instance, 3 bushels perennial
ryegrass and 5 lbs. clover per acre is the mixture used; in another, 1½
bushels Italian, 1 bushel ryegrass, and 5 lbs. red, white, and
alsyke; and in another, 2½ bushels
ryegrass, including Timothy and Italian seeds, and 5 lbs. clover. The
yield varies from 25 to 30 cwt. per acre. On some lower farms the clover
is so luxuriant as to be almost an inconvenience, causing repeated
teddings of the hay in order to dry it. As in other parishes, farmers
here sell great part of their hay, foddering their dairy stock almost
entirely with corn straw. Sometimes the crop is top-dressed with a
mixture of nitrate and bones, but such treatment is not general. One
farmer varies his five-years' rotation by taking a second crop of hay,
top-dressing the stubbles of the first crop with 15 tons police manure
per acre. He finds this as effectual a way of keeping the land in
condition as pasturing for a year would be.
Potatoes.—On all farms a considerable amount of
potatoes are grown. The very early sorts are only found on a few farms ;
but "Walker's Earlies," "Regents," and "Champions" are general crops.
Manure for potatoes is very commonly put in the drills, about 25 tons
long dung and 5 cwt. chemicals per acre being the quantities allowed.
The ploughing in of the dung is also not an uncommon practice. When this
is to be done, all the farm-yard manure is put on the stubble at the end
of the year. After lying on the ground for six weeks, it is ploughed in;
in spring the ground is harrowed, and drills for the potatoes drawn at
right angles to the previous ploughing. A farmer in the district
recently green-cropped a cold-bottomed field seven years continuously,
ploughing in the manure in this way, and starting the potatoes in spring
with 10 cwt. bone meal and salt in equal proportions per acre. This
treatment has resulted in making what was once the worst pasture on
the farm to be nearly the best. A return of from 8 to 10 tons per
acre of potatoes is usually obtained. Much of the potato land here is
very unhealthy, necessitating a smart uplifting of the crop for fear of
disease. The majority of the potatoes are consumed in the towns of the
Vale of Leven. Farmers generally dispose of the earlier sorts by the
acre to dealers or agents, reserving the "Champions" and other late
sorts for gradual sale to shops and private families. The sowing of rape
on the early potato land, which we saw practised to some extent in
Cardross parish, is not attempted here. The headriggs also are merely
kept clean, and manured in preparation for the wheat or corn crop.
Turnips.—On each of the lower farms about 2 acres
"Swedish" and 4 acres yellow turnips are raised, but on the uplands "swedes"
are not found. It is not an uncommon procedure to plough in the manure
for this crop, and start it in the spring with 5 or 6 cwt. chemicals per
acre. Police manure is very often used for this purpose, about 25 tons
per acre being allowed; and if the same weight of turnips is obtained in
return, the crop is counted a fair one. Few turnips are sold, the
quantity raised being usually no more than suffices to feed the cattle
in the winter months. On some farms a quantity of beans and cabbages are
regularly grown. Beans are harvested about the beginning of October, and
yield on an average 40 bushels per acre. These two crops are used
exclusively for feeding purposes in the stable and dairy.
Manure.—Besides farm-yard manure, whereof a great
quantity is made in the district, long and short dung is largely
obtained from Dumbarton and other towns of the Vale of Leven. A
considerable portion of the byre manure made in Alexandria is not
available for agricultural purposes, being bought up by public works, to
be used in dyeing. Police manure costs 1s. per ton, other manure from
1s. 6d. to 3s. more. Gas lime is made use of on some of the mossy lands;
and a compost, made of road scrapings, weeds, ditch cleanings, &c, is
sometimes spread on the young grass, with a view to improve the hay
crop.
Dairying.—An extensive dairy business is
prosecuted throughout the district. Stocks are very large, in some cases
amounting to 48 head of cattle; but 25 is an average number. Constant
sale for sweet milk is found in Dumbarton, Bowling, and the towns of the
Vale of Leven. About half of the farmers dispose of their milk wholesale
to a dealer in town, the other half retail theirs personally to private
families. Generally the dealer comes twice a day to the farm and lifts
the milk. In the evening he takes away only as much warm milk as is
bespoken by customers, leaving the rest to be lifted on the morrow as
skimmed milk and cream. As the supply of milk has to be kept up winter
and summer alike, farmers are often under the necessity of buying in a
few back calving cows at the beginning of winter.
On all the farms a number of young beasts are reared
every year—10 or 12 of the best queys, calved from February till May,
being preserved for the purpose. The calves get warm milk for three
weeks, and thereafter a mixture of pease meal or linseed meal and milk,
gradually diminishing the quantity of milk. A few farmers rear
exclusively with a view to keep up stocks, selling no queys. They farrow
and feed off a number of the older cows every year, filling their places
with a like number of queys brought in at 2½
years of age. In general, however, a number, both of young and mature
milk cows, are disposed of yearly. Dealers and cowfeeders readily buy
them, either by private bargain or at the Dumbarton weekly sales. With a
view to improve their stocks, several farmers have availed themselves of
bulls bred in the famous Auchendennan herd. Of this herd some account
will be found further on. Its headquarters were in the parish of Bonhill.
Sheep, &c.—Besides milk cows, a number of sheep
and other stock are grazed in the district. One or two farmers do a
little business as graziers, having tracts of pasture land on which they
graze Ayrshire stots, back calving cows, and sheep. Some farmers also
buy in a hundred or two grayfaced hoggs in September, wintering them on
the foggage till April. If. is in this district that the chief
cattle-dealing business of the shire goes on. Dumbarton tryst, once a
great cattle fair, though now somewhat shrunken in importance, is held
on the 1st Wednesday of June on Carman Hill. At this fair great numbers
of milk cows, bullocks, and horses are wont to change hands.
An important horse fair, popularly known as the "Moss
of Balloch," is held annually at that place on the 15th of September;
and for the last year or two, a weekly sale has been held at Dumbarton
on Wednesday, where milk cows and other kinds of cattle are sold.
The Industries of Dumbarton. Dumbarton is a
considerable town of 14,172 inhabitants. Its existence reaches back to a
very early period. So long ago as 1221, it had become large and
important enough to be formed into a royal burgh; and for many years
previous to that time it was doubtless a populous place, deriving its
name, and the reason of its existence, from the famous Castle rock.
Nevertheless, the Dumbarton of to day, venerable though it be in years,
has no appearance of antiquity. It is altogether a handsome, modern,
busy town, the capital of a shire, and the seat of an extensive
shipbuilding trade. Modern Dumbarton dates from thirty years ago. At
that time, a spirit of renovation and progress seized the town, and in
the course of a few years made such improvements on its aspect, that one
of its eighteenth century inhabitants would hardly recognise it. As the
zeal for improvement was great, so the need for it was equally so. The
town was neither well watered, lighted, guarded, or cleansed. Owing to
the brisk shipbuilding trade, even then going on, it had also become
much too small for its population; and for a town which depended so
entirely on the building of ships, to have such a shallow, unnavigable
river as the Leven then was, was a sign either of poverty or lack of
enterprise. An influential body of the citizens was in favour of
improvements in all these respects; but a pertinacious number for awhile
frustrated their efforts. At last, in 1854, a new progressive council
adopted the Harbour Act, empowering them to raise public funds for
improvement of the river. In 1857, a still more progressive council
obtained from Parliament a special Burgh Act, giving them authority to
levy taxes for a comprehensive set of improvements, including a water
scheme. Previous to that time, by the energetic action of some
capitalists, the limited accommodation difficulty had been met, many new
buildings having been erected in the town, and a whole new suburb added
across the Leven; and thus, in the course of a few years, Dumbarton had
transformed herself, and from being a small antiquated place, on the
banks of an unnavigable river, had become an extensive modern town, well
appointed in every respect, and provided with a good waterway to the
open sea.
As a market town, and the seat of a sheriff court,
Dumbarton doubtless derives some wealth and importance ; but the main
foundation of its prosperity is the extensive shipbuilding carried on
within it. A development of this industry is the chief fact in the
modern history of the town. Old firms have grown to many times their
original dimensions, many new firms have arisen, and a general increase
in wealth and population has resulted.
The two principal building yards are owned by Messrs
William Denny & Brothers and Messrs Archibald M'Millan & Sons. These are
well-known firms, who since their establishment have contributed a
respectable quota to the immense sum total of Clyde shipbuilding. Messrs
Denny & Brothers are a very old firm, beginning business back in one of
the earlier decades of the century. Their history has been one of
development and progress. In 1844, when the application of iron to
shipbuilding had begun to revolutionise the trade, the firm was one of
the foremost in adopting the new material. In 1845 they launched 3 iron
steamers, and in 1847 no less than 6. Their business increased year by
year ; and comparing the two 6-year periods, ending 1850 and 1856
respectively, we find that in the first they launched 26 vessels, of a
gross tonnage of 6003, and an aggregate nominal horse-power of 1327; in
the next period they launched 35 vessels, of a gross tonnage of 28,591,
and an aggregate horse-power of 6142—that is, the ships built were not
only more numerous, but also much larger. In 1867 the firm removed to a
larger and more convenient yard, on the north side of the river, called
the Leven Shipyard. This yard at first covered 15 acres, and provided
accommodation for building six 3000 ton vessels. It had within it a
tidal basin capable of receiving two large steamships, with space for
shifting. By the side of this basin were erected shear-legs capable of
lifting 50 tons. In this yard, for many years, the firm carried on an
extensive and growing business. In course of time, however, they began
once more to find themselves straitened for room ; and in 1881 they
acquired, and annexed to the Leven Shipyard, a 27 acre area of land
immediately to the east. In this they formed another tidal basin of much
greater capacity than the last, and erected thereat shear-legs twice as
powerful as the former—lifting 100 tons. Thus their yard now covers 42
acres, and is provided with two tidal basins or docks, and two pairs of
powerful lifting apparatus. They have room within it to build,
simultaneously, seven steamers of from 350 to 600 feet long, and each
from 2000 to 8000 tons gross; and have space, besides, for the
construction of eight paddle steamers or barges—of which the firm have
always a few on hand. These latter are chiefly for customers in India,
China, Buenos Ayres, and the colonies, to which places they are shipped
in pieces, ready for reconstruction. A branch from the North British
Railway runs through the yard, and a complete system of portable
railroads—narrow gauge (by Decan-ville, France)—forms a network all over
it. This latter is for the use of workmen in all the departments, and
does away with the necessity for hand barrows, jankers, &c. Other
appliances, completing the equipment of the yard, are electric lighting
and telephonic communication. The furnace sheds are illuminated by
electricity; and arrangements are being contemplated for lighting up by
the same means the counting-house, drawing office, joiners' and
upholsterers' shops, as well as ships in course of construction on the
stocks. Telephonic communication has been completely established between
the counting-house and all the shops and departments of the yard, as
well as with the private residences of all the partners. Establishments
in town, with which the firm have constant dealings, such as Dennyston
Forge, Hardie & Gordon's Foundry, and Denny & Co.'s Engine-works, are
also in like manner connected with the counting-house; and in a few
weeks hence direct telephonic communication will be established with
Glasgow. Since the early days of the firm shipbuilding has made rapid
strides, and has grown a very great and scientific trade. Messrs Denny &
Brothers have ever been forward to adopt such useful inventions and
improvements as have from time to time arisen, either in modes of
working or in styles of constructing and finishing vessels.
The following figures, kindly furnished by the firm,
will give an idea of the progress of their business, and of the
Dumbarton shipbuilding industry in general, during the last quarter of a
century:—In 1861 there were employed in the yard 879 hands; in 1884 the
number of employees was 1826. The average number employed during the
five years ending 1865, was 1023 ; the average number during five years
ending 1883 was 1409. During the period of
five years ending 1865, there were launched 45,716 tons; during the
period of five years ending 1883, the tonnage launched was 96,100.
The other large shipbuilding yard in town is owned by
Messrs Archibald M'Millan & Sons. This is a very long-established firm,
the senior partner of it being the oldest shipbuilder on the Clyde. The
firm have acquired special fame as builders of sailing vessels, and on
several occasions have turned out the largest ships of that class. The
industry has grown on their hands so much that they have twice had to
extend their yard greatly. Their employees have increased from 200 in
the year 1853 to over 1000 in 1883 ; and the average rate of wages paid
has risen from 15s. to 25s. per week. In the ten years ending 1856, they
launched 17,988 tons ; in the ten years ending 1875 the tonnage launched
was 71,500 tons; while for the last few years their annual output has
been 14,000 tons. From first to last, the firm have built 312 vessels of
all descriptions, making an aggregate of 230,000 tons. Two other kindred
firms which have arisen are Messrs Birrel and Stenhouse, who started in
1871; and Messrs M'Kellar & Co., dating from 1872. At a busy season the
combined employees of these number about 1000. When trade is brisk, it
thus appears that the aggregate number of hands employed in Dumbarton
yards in recent years is something like 4000. Thirty years ago, the sum
total of workmen did not much exceed 2000, a fact showing great
development and progress.
Engineering and founding are important adjuncts of
shipbuilding. Both industries are vigorously prosecuted in Dumbarton.
The most important engineering establishment is that of Messrs Denny &
Co. The firm began operations in 1851. Since then they have increased to
four times their original dimensions, and just now are putting extensive
additions to their already large premises. They produce the largest and
highest class of engines and boilers required at the present day. Of
late years they have employed 800 men.
Messrs Paul, another engineering firm, have also
developed their business considerably. In 1860 they took a new
departure, entering into the steam crane and winch trade. In the making
of these and other labour-saving apparatus for shipboard, they have
acquired considerable celebrity ; and in 1867 took a prize at the
Exhibition for a steam windlass and winch which they exhibited. In 1866
they extended their premises, and added boiler-making to their other
business, and again in 1875 they further enlarged their workshops. Their
staff of workmen has increased in number, growing latterly to 200 hands.
Levenbank Foundry and Engine Work was started in
1856. By alterations at various times, it has been made three times its
original size, and at busy seasons gives work to 160
men.
Dennyston Forge, a large well-furnished work, was
started in 1855. At that time it was provided with three Nasmyth
hammers, the heaviest weighing 5 tons, and could turn out forgings 12
tons in weight. In 1865 the establishment was made three times larger,
and provided with other two hammers, the heaviest weighing 10 tons,
being the only one of the weight in Scotland. Ten years later, when
another Nasmyth hammer was added, the number of these powerful
implements in operation in the Forge was nine, and forgings up to 20
tons in weight could be turned out.
Besides these mentioned, which are the principal
firms of the town, there are several brassfounders, saw-mills, rope and
tan works, &c, some of which have been started by the expansion of
shipbuilding, and all of them benefited by it. The valuation roll and
census returns corroborate this account of progress. The following are
the valuations of the burgh at three periods since 1856. For 1856-57,
£12,881, l1s. 2d.; 1859-60, £18,622, 10s. 8d.; and 1883-84, £55,101,
11s. 6d. The following are the census returns for the last thirty
years;—In 1851 the population of the burgh was 4590, in 1861 it had
increased to 8268, in 1871 it was enumerated at 11,423, and in 1881 it
was ascertained to have reached 14,172.
The Industries of the Vale of Leven. The Yale of
Leven, with its fine verdant plain, its winding river, and picturesque
hills on either side, has a natural beauty about it, which, in the
absence of any other feature of interest, would make it well worth
visiting. In effect, however, the scenery of the Vale is one of its
least noticeable features, as huge public works and populous towns have
long been so conspicuous as to quite eclipse nature. The Yale of Leven
is, in fact, one of the most busy and thickly-inhabited districts in
Scotland. Four populous villages are found within it, viz., Jamestown,
Bonhill, Alexandria, and Benton, the combined inhabitants of which, in.
1881, numbered 15,603 souls. These find employment chiefly in the great
Turkey-red dyeing and calico-printing establishments carried on on the
banks of the river Leven. The existence of these establishments is to be
accounted for by the constant supply of pure soft water which that river
affords, thus enabling the bleaching, dyeing, and printing processes to
be prosecuted at all times. From an early period the Vale was celebrated
for it bleachfields. Dal-quhurn was started as a work of that
description in 1715. The first printwork was commenced at Levenfield in
1768, and in 1776 another one, called the Cordale, was established.
Dyeing is applied to cloths and yarns, and includes
the following operations:—Bleaching goods to give a clear bottom ;
saturating them repeatedly in olive oil and soda ; mordanting to give
affinity for dyeing stuffs; dyeing by madder, garancine, or alizarine;
and cleaning or brightening by soap, in boiler, under pressure. Printing
is done chiefly by machinery, though block printing has revived to some
extent. The cloths and yarns are mostly bought in from Lancashire
manufacturers, and when finished are sold both for home and foreign
trade. Of yarns and cloths exported, by far the largest portion are sold
as plain Turkey-red ; the remainder are printed with designs peculiar to
the taste of the Hindoos and Mahommedans, consisting of peacocks,
elephants, &c. Within the last twenty-five years wonderful improvements
have taken place in connection with the processes of Turkey-red dyeing
and calico printing, and in the adoption of these the Vale of Leven
firms have certainly not been behind. One of the chief of those
improvements was the adaptation of artificial alizarine to dyeing
purposes. In early times madder, a vegetable extract, was the agent
employed, subsequently garancine, a preparation of madder, was made use
of; but in 1868 alizarine was discovered, an agent better adapted than
any of the former for producing a bright fast colour. By substituting
alizarine for madder, dyers did not exchange one colouring agent for
another—they merely availed themselves of a purer quality of the same
element; for the colouring principle is one and the same in madder,
garancine, and alizarine, only in the last it exists in its purest and
most concentrated form. Alizarine is extracted from coal-tar.
Of the five firms in the dyeing and printing trades,
three of them carry on Turkey-red dyeing and printing. These are— Messrs
Archibald Orr Ewing & Co., Messrs John Orr Ewing and Co., and Messrs
Stirling & Co. The other two firms—Messrs James Black & Co. and Messrs
Guthrie & Co.—are chiefly engaged in madder printing alone. In addition
to garment and muslin goods, these latter firms produce great quantities
of furniture prints, cretonnes, twills, figured dimity, chintzes, &c.
The last twenty-five years have witnessed a remarkable expansion of the
Vale of Leven dyeing and printing industries. From time to time
additions have been made to all the works, and the buildings of the
three larger firms now cover an area of 10 acres each. These larger
works have branch railroads carried through them, to convey coal and
export goods. In 1876 we find the three dyeing and printing firms—Messrs
A. Orr Ewing and Co., Messrs J. Orr Ewing & Co., and Messrs William
Stirling and Co.—employing 6000 work people, paying £150,000 per annum
in wages, and producing, when in full operation, 10,000 pieces cloth and
25,000 lbs. of yarn daily.
In 1857, on the three works presently owned by Messrs
A. Orr Ewing & Co., there were employed 1223 persons,—the amount
disbursed, in wages and tradesmen's accounts, was £44,000 per annum or
thereby. In 1878, on the same works, upwards of 2000 people found
employment, and £90,000 was paid in wages and tradesmen's accounts. This
firm, when in full operation, turns out over 12,000 lbs. of yarn and
nearly 5000 pieces of cloth per day,—a larger amount than was produced
in Great Britain in 1843. Messrs John Orr Ewing & Co. now produce over
eight times the amount they did in 1860. In 1876, they consumed 32,130
tons of coal, and in wages paid £54,460. Their business has increased
considerably since then, and they now employ 1600 hands, which is double
the number employed twenty-five years ago. At Dalmonach Printworks
(Messrs Black & Co.) there are at present employed from 800 to 900
persons; twenty-eight years ago, the number was 613. The firm have
twenty-five printing machines, printing from one to sixteen colours, and
capable of producing 25 million yards printed goods in a year. At Messrs
Guthrie & Co.'s print-work there were employed twenty-eight years ago
308 people; when busy, the number now is 600. In fact, it has been
computed that the number of employees and output of goods have at least
doubled in twenty-five years. In 1835 the amount paid in wages by all
the firms in the Vale was something like £8800; the sum disbursed in
1856, for the same purpose and for tradesmen's accounts, was £132,000 or
thereby. In 1875 the payments for like purposes would reach £200,000;
and at the present time (1884), it is calculated that the expenditure
upon wages and accounts cannot be much under £300 000.
This great expansion in the industries of the Vale of
Leven has brought about a corresponding increase in the population. In
1851, the inhabitants of Cardross and Bonhill parishes, where the Vale
of Leven villages are found, numbered 11,221; in 1861 they had increased
to 13,227. In 1871 the census returns from the villages alone reveal a
total of 10,247 inhabitants. Ten years later this total had grown to
15,603, and it is believed that if these four villages—Jamestown,
Bonhill, Alexandria, and Renton—were now enumerated, their combined
populations would amount to something like 18,000.
The number of new houses erected, and old ones
rebuilt, gives the whole district a new aspect. Public works,
dwelling-houses, &c, are all of a red colour; the former being
constructed of brick, the latter chiefly of the red sandstone abounding
in the locality. Messrs A. Orr Ewing & Co. are extensive
property-holders, having built the greater part of those substantial
well-appointed houses which constitute the village of Jamestown. This
firm have also, of late, made considerable additions to their already
extensive works; and so likewise have Messrs William Stirling & Sons.
Kilmaronock Parish.
This is largest arable parish in Dumbartonshire. Its
length is 6½ miles, its breadth 4 miles, and
its extent 10,325 acres, of which about five-sixths are arable. The
parish presents a great variety of surface. The western end of it is of
a very undulating nature,—the land rising and falling twice between Loch
Lomond and the upper boundary, so that some farms have a northern and
some a southern exposure. Going eastwards, it loses this undulating
character, and becomes a wide plain, sloping slowly downwards to Loch
Lomond. At the eastern end, in the angle formed by the River Endrick and
the Loch, there is an alluvial tract so level as to require drainage by
machinery.
Soil.—The soil of the parish is, to a great
extent, of a light sandy description, and of a red sandstone hue, very
thin, and resting partly on the aforesaid rock and partly on a bottom of
red till. Patches of it are of a more clayey nature ; and towards the
east of the parish a tract of distinctly heavy soil occurs resting on a
tilly bottom. In the centre of the parish a large area of moorish land
is found, interspersed with peat mosses; and in the extreme north-east
there lies the alluvial level we have spoken of. This last, despite the
difficulties attaching to drainage, is very superior arable land, and is
valued at a rate the highest of any in the
parish, viz., £2, 10s. per acre. The rest of the land ranges in value
from 15s. to 25s. per acre. Farms vary in size from 90 to 150 acres. The
rotation followed is commonly the six-shift, though on most farms there
are fields which lie out in pasture for a much longer time than that
rotation admits of.
Oats.—A great variety of oats are tried in the
parish, but "Hamilton" and "Flemish" are the prevalent kinds. Seed is
sometimes completely renewed every second year. The yield varies from 30
to 48 bushels per acre, and the average weight will be 40 lbs. per
bushel. The number of cattle kept on some farms leaves little either of
the grain or the straw for the market, but of the corn sold the greater
part goes to feed horses. Some farmers sell a quantity of meal to shops
and families.
Wheat, &c.—Wheat is a grain quite unknown in the
district, and barley, which was once a staple crop, is now almost
obsolete. The reasons for the discontinuance of barley are to be found
in the unprofitable figure to which it is now reduced, and the fact that
barley straw makes very poor fodder.
Hay.—The yield of hay varies from 30 to 40 cwt.
per acre. A great part of the land is capable of growing good hard-grown
hay, and the raising and selling of this crop forms a considerable item
in the rural economy of the parish. About 2½
bushels ryegrass seeds, mixed with a sprinkling of Timothy and Italian,
and 5 or 6 lbs. clover, is the quantity used by some farmers to seed an
acre. Top-dressing with chemicals is somewhat freely practised. One
farmer recently sowed down a good part of his land with Timothy grass,
and cropped it continuously for eight years, top-dressing with police
manure every second year. Hay is disposed of in Alexandria, Dumbarton,
Tarbet, and other places, near and remote. In the delivery of large
orders of hay, farmers assist each other.
Potatoes.—The earliest sort of potato grown in
the parish is "Walker's," but of these only a few are planted. The
raising of seed potatoes for early growers was once a prominent feature
of farming here; but, though this branch of potato culture is still to
some extent prosecuted in the mossy lands of the parish, it has now
given place, in the majority of cases, to the growing of "Champions" and
other late and hardy kinds, for general purposes. The great prevalence
of disease, seven or eight years ago, is the reason for this departure
from the raising of the earlier potatoes. From 6 to 8 tons per acre is
counted a fair return in this crop. Manure is generally put in drills,
and the amount applied varies from 25 to 30 tons per acre. A proportion
of chemicals continues to be used, but the general feeling in this
parish is somewhat against these manures. One farmer, however, after a
number of experiments, has come to be strongly in favour of potash, used
singly, as a fertiliser for potatoes. In a potato field, manured in
drills after the usual fashion, he reserved a few drills where he
applied nothing but potash. He found that this part not only yielded as
fair a return of potatoes, but also bore as good a crop of corn next
year. This circumstance, combined with the fact that potash is a cheaper
commodity to buy than good byre or stable manure, has made him strongly
in favour of it, and this year he has set his potatoes with nothing
else, applying 7 cwt. per acre. The majority of potatoes grown are
consumed in the Yale of Leven, being usually sold through a commission
agent, who for his services receives 1s. per bag of 2 cwt. One farmer,
with a number of cattle to feed, uses his potatoes for that purpose
whenever they fall below 6s. per bag.
Turnips.—Both Swedish and other turnips thrive in
the parish, though on some farms, where the soil is thin, the former
sort is not grown. About 4 lbs. per acre of seed is sown, and a crop
varying from 15 to 25 tons is obtained. Turnips are sometimes pitted in
heaps of a cart-load in each. Some farmers sell a portion of their
turnips in the Yale of Leven, but in general this crop is all required
for feeding purposes at home.
Beans and Mashlum.—A moderate breadth of beans
and mashlum is also to be found in the parish. Dung is ploughed in for
both crops, and a result of 40 bushels beans, and 32 bushels mashlum,
per acre is usually obtained. A method sometimes adopted for mashlum is
to broadcast dung on the ploughed land, harrow it over, then draw a
light furrow for the seed.
Manure.—The bulk of the manure imported into the
parish is short dung from Glasgow and the Vale of Leven. Glasgow police
manure, delivered in Kilmaronock, costs 3s. per ton. Farmers also deal
considerably in chemicals—the backwardness of the soil having tempted
them into a pretty free use of these manures. If lime could be had, it
would be preferable to chemicals. Lime was forty years ago the mainstay
of farmers in this parish, but the costliness of it for many years back
has prevented its use.
Dairying.—From 12 to 20 milk cows are kept on the
majority of farms, and by the sale of dairy produce farmers derive a
great part of their income. The greater number send sweet milk to
Glasgow every morning by train. Some supply the same commodity to
families in the Vale of Leven, and a great number churn the milk, and
sell butter, &c, in the populous towns of the Vale. The cost of
conveying sweet milk to Glasgow by rail is three farthings per gallon.
Farmers have a standing grievance against railway officials, in regard
to the rude way their butts are used on the return journey. The
disrespect manifested by all carrying companies towards "empties," is
fully illustrated in the abused condition of these butts. For three
months in summer the price obtained from milk dealers in Glasgow is 6d.
per gallon, in mid winter 5d. more. From the other dairies a milk cart
with butter and milk is in summer despatched, three or four times a
week, to Renton, Alexandria, &c. In winter only one or two expeditions
will be made, or perhaps none at all. Butter milk is in part devoted to
the feeding of calves. Rearing of dairy and feeding stock goes on to a
considerable extent. On one or two farms rearing is the exclusive
business done with cattle. One farmer has as many as 60 beasts, housed
in winter, and several others have from 40 to 50. Bull calves, calved
before March, are reared and sold at two years old, as bullocks, to
dealers and graziers. Those calved after that month never thrive so
well, and so are not made use of in that way. Queys are brought in at
two years old, and are for the most part taken into the byre, instead of
cows drafted out for sale. Milk cows are seldom kept till they are old;
they are usually sold when mature to cowfeeders. These transactions
generally take place about January. The principal stock in the parish is
that of Mr Reid of Portnellan. The ancestors of this stock came from
Ayrshire seventy years ago, being brought thither by Mr Reid's father.
It is one of the few herd-book stocks in Dumbartonshire, and has a wide
reputation. Mr Reid's bulls are bought by breeders from Ayrshire, to
whom the qualities of the stock are known by-tradition. He likewise
rears and finishes off a number of Ayrshire bullocks, and buys in a
number of cows in the spring, with 36 a view
to selling them off in October as back-calvers. Cattle fairs are held at
Drymen in the east of the parish in April and May, and at Balloch in the
west in October. It is customary for dealers to come round previous to
these occasions and buy up marketable cattle, engaging with the farmer
to have them to hand on the day of the fair.
Kilpatrick Parishes. The district comprised in
these two parishes is a very populous one, both as regards men and
cattle. Well-filled villages and large dairies are the prominent
features of it. Its contiguity to Glasgow is the chief reason for its
large population. The district includes an extensive area of low country
and a tract of hilly land. The Clyde bounds it for a considerable
distance towards the south, and its northern boundary is found along the
summit of the Kilpatrick Hills. These hills begin at Dumbuck, in the
extreme west of the district, very near the Clydeside. Going eastward,
they recede farther and farther from the river, leaving a triangular
space of land between. This latter constitutes the arable part of the
parishes. The whole district, excluding water and foreshores, covers an
area of 16,847 acres, of which about four-sevenths are arable. The
Kilpatrick Hills are of a moderate height, and have a rather green
appearance, a circumstance owing to previous cultivation, probably in
days when they were parcelled out among a number of small lairds. The
lowlands between the heights and the Clyde are of a very undulating
character. In East Kilpatrick the whole face of the country resolves
itself into a number of knolls, with broad hollows between. These knolls
are for the most part earthy throughout, and are composed in some cases
of stiff clay mixed with boulders, and in other cases they consist of
fine sand of a great depth.
Soil.—The soil along Clydeside is a strong loam,
with a sandy element through it, suitable for grass or grain—not so
suitable for green crop. Higher up, in the western parts of West
Kilpatrick, a breadth of sandy loam occurs. Eastwards the soil grows
stiff, and rests on a tilly bottom. On the main body of East Kilpatrick
areas both of sandy loam and stiff clayey land are found. The whole
northern farms of these parishes, lying along the base of the Kilpatrick
Hills, have a soil of a light loam, not unmixed with boulders, and
resting immediately on the whinstone. The average rate per acre for land
is £2, 5s., the Clydeside lands rising in value to £1 more. Farms range
in size from 100 to 150 acres, though one or two are nearly 300 acres in
extent.
Rotation.—More cropping is done in the western
parish than in the eastern one. In the latter, great part of the land on
every farm lies out in pasture for seven or eight years at a time. The
part, however, devoted to tillage is on that account apt to be somewhat
continuously cropped, ploughing of hay stubbles being a common
occurrence. The need for plenty of pasture for the large dairy stocks
kept, and the aptitude of the soil for growing good grass, are the
reasons for this limited tillage. In West Kilpatrick, the six-years'
rotation prevails, though on some of the best farms a four-years' shift
has been used. Fields here and there are also allowed to lie out in
grass for a period of years.
Oats.—"Hamilton" and "Potato" oats are the kinds
prevalent in the district. Seed is very commonly renewed every three
years. The yield varies from 36 to 60 bushels, according to soil and
season, weighing from 38 to 42 lbs. per bushel. The encouragement of the
corn crop, by top-dressing or ploughing in manure, is not often
practised, though sometimes farmers in East Kilpatrick use a soap-waste
compost as a top-dressing to needful spots. Harvest comes on in the
Clydeside farms about the beginning of September, on the higher grounds
perhaps ten days or a fortnight later. The greater part of the thrashing
in this district is done by the travelling mill, every farmer having
three or four services of it in a season. After reserving for home
consumption, the balance of the oats is generally sold in Glasgow,
either to grain merchants or for horse corn. A considerable amount of
straw also finds a market in that city. Little meal is sold by
Kilpatrick farmers.
Wheat.—Wheat is largely sown on the lower farms.
The place for wheat in the rotation is always after green crop.
"Woolly-ear" is the variety mostly in favour, whereof about 3 bushels
are taken to seed an acre. Wheat sowing begins about the end of October.
The crop is sometimes top-dressed with a little nitrate, but the chief
fertiliser allowed is the unexhausted manure of the green crop. Wheat
harvest arrives about the end of August, when from 32 to 48 bushels per
acre are realised, weighing in a good year over 60 lbs. per bushel. The
grain is all sold to the merchants in Glasgow, and the straw finds a
ready sale as litter ; some of it also goes to manufacturers as stuffing
for mattresses.
Say.—For this crop something like 2 bushels
perennial ryegrass, 5 lbs. red clover, and 2 lbs. white are sown. Alsyke
is by some farmers used, and by others avoided, the latter alleging that
the cattle do not like it. Haymaking commences about the 3rd of July on
the best lands. Considerable use is made, throughout the district, of
timber centres or "bosins" in the building of ricks. These "bosins" are
composed of three uprights, from 7 to 9 feet high, joined together at
the top, and at the bottom expanded about 3 feet apart. Around this
extinguisher-shaped stand the rick is built, and by reason of the
hollowness caused in its centre dries much more quickly. As a further
means to speed and economy in the management of the hay crop, may be
mentioned the large open sheds which some steadings are provided with.
These sheds may be about 75 feet long and 30 feet wide, and consist
merely of pillars 14 feet high, and 12 feet or thereby apart, supporting
a galvanised iron or slate roof. In these some 25 tons of hay can be
stored, with as much safety and half the labour necessary to build a
stack. The hay is not stored in a solid mass; it is put so as to leave
transverse lanes through it every 12 or 14 feet, so that ventilation is
secured. "Timothy" meadows are somewhat common in the district. On the
home farm of Milngavie Mains (A. Campbell Douglas, Esq.), a 23 acre
field has been sown down with "Timothy" and perennial rye-grass. This
was top-dressed two years ago with short dung from the neighbouring
town, and the two crops raised since then have averaged nearly 3 tons
per acre. One of the principal farmers in East Kilpatrick has also sown
down part of his land with "Timothy" grass, and has cropped it for six.
years in succession. He top-dresses every second year with 15 tons per
acre farm-yard manure, the other years he applies a top-dressing of 4
cwt. of nitrate per acre. The yield last year was 5 tons, and this year
he realised a return of 4 tons per acre. A farmer in West Kilpatrick has
also for many years had a very good "Timothy" meadow. This field, which
extends to 6 acres, was overspread, near the beginning of his lease,
with harbour dredgings to the depth of 4 inches. The cost was somewhat
heavy at the time, but the result has fully justified it. With the aid
of a little top-dressing, he has yearly had a return of from 4 to 5 tons
per acre of hay. A feature of farming in the western parish is the use
made of liquid manure in the raising of grass. A barrel cart for
applying the liquid, and a pumping apparatus at the dung-stead for
filling the barrel, are appurtenances of every farm. In the spring the
liquid is sprinkled on the grass lands, and in summer it is applied at
intervals to the pasture, improving its appearance in a few days. This
is the only part of Dumbartonshire where such a process is carried on,
and the reason probably is, that the abundance of liquid available, on
account of the very large dairies kept, gives farmers special facilities
for the practice.
Potatoes.—A few "Red Bogs" and other early sorts
are planted, but generally speaking early growing is not a feature of
farming here. Thirty years ago it was a very noticeable feature, farmers
in the district having the first chance of the early market, but since
the railway has brought Ayrshire and Cardross within a few hours'
distance of Glasgow, Kilpatrick has found itself outdone. The former
place is able to have potatoes to hand a fortnight, and the latter eight
days earlier, than the best farms of these parishes. In the western
division a few "Red Bogs" are met with, but in general the "Regent" is
the earliest potato raised, and between it and the "Champion" the potato
land is divided. Growing potatoes in lea was, fifteen years ago,
somewhat freely practised, and is still occasionally done, but the
results have not proved very favourable. About two-thirds of the green
crop break is planted with potatoes, which on a good many farms will
mean from 20 to 27 acres. Dung is most generally put in drills, except
on some steep places, where it is ploughed in. About 25 tons farm-yard
manure is applied for the crop, supplemented by chemicals. One farmer's
method is to spread 35 tons farm-yard manure as early as possible on the
stubble land. He ploughs this in in the month of | |