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i 



\ 



THE NEW 

STATISTI C AL ACCOUNT 



OP 



SCOTLAND. 



VOL. I. 






THE NEW 



STATISTICAL ACCOUNT 



OF 



SCOTLAND. 



BY 



THE MINI8TEB8 OF THE RESPECTIVE PARI8HE8, UNDER THE 
SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY 

FOR THE BENEFIT GB THE SONS AND 
DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. 



VOL. I. 

LIST OF PARISHES- 
EDINBUE6E 



WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, 

EDINBURGH AND LONDON. 

MDCCCXLV, 



^ 

^ 






LO 






EDINBURGH 



an 



\ 



CONTENTS 



BORTIiWICK, 


• 


PAGE loO 


CALDER, MID, 


• 


356 


CALDBR, WEST, 


• 


304 


CARRINGTON, 


• 


611 


COCKPEN, 


• 


. 606 


COLINTON, 


• 


107 


CORSTORPHINE, 


• 


205 


CRAMOND, 


• A 


589 


CRANSTON, 


• 


191 


CRICHTON, . , 


• 


56 


CURRIE, 


• 


542 


DALKEITH, 


• 


451 


DUDDINGSTON, 


• 


381 


EDINBURGH, 


• 


614 


FALA AND SOUTRA, 


• 


534 


OLENCORSE, 


• 


310 


HERIOT, 


• 


198 


INVERBSK, 


• 


246 


KIRKLISTON, 


• 


133 


KIRKNEWTON, 


• 4 


433 


LASSWADE, 


• 


323 


LBITH, 


• 


760 


LIBERTON, 


• 


1 


MIDCALDER, 


• 


356 


NEWBATTLE, 


t 


634 


NEWTON, 


• 


557 


NORTH LEITH, 


■ 


779 


PENICUIK, * 


• 


29 


RATHO, 


• 


76 


ROSLIN, 


• 


337 


SOUTH LEITH, 


• 


776 


STOW, 


• 


398 


TEMPLE, 


• 


49 


WEST CALDER^ 


• 


304 






REPORT 



OF THS 



COMMITT£E OF THE SoCIETY FOR THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS 

OF THE Clergy superintending the New Statistical 
Account of Scotland, 



TO THE 



General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. 



The Committee intimated to the General Assembly of 1832 
their desire to procure a New Statistical Account of Scotland ; 
which they proposed to obtain by requesting from the parochial 
Clergy a description of their respective parishes. 

The Greneral Assembly was pleased to approve of the undertak- 
ingy and to ^^ recommend to the members of the Church to give all 
the aid in their power toward its completion." 

The completion of the work, which is now at hand, furnishes 
another occasion to the Committee of respectfully bringing the 
suliject under the notice of the Assembly. The first Number was 
published in March 1834 ; the last Number is now at press, and 
will appear in the course of a few weeks. 

The work is comprised in 52 Numbers, which were issued regu- 
larly at stated times of publication. The whole, with the Ac- 
counts of the different parishes brought under their respective 
Counties, will be bound in 15 volumes. At the same time, the collect- 
ed Accounts of each of the Counties will be published in separate vo- 
lumes,---an arrangement for which the great extent of the under- 
taking had made it necessary to provide from the commencement 

It was intended, at first, to have concluded with a General Sum- 
mary of the more important facts whicht tlu'oughout the work, have 

VOL. I. A 



11 

been presented on the different branches of the inquiry. This part 
of the plan it has been judged expedient^ in the circumstances, to 
resign ; first, because it is, in a great measure, superseded by the sum- 
mary (in some instances ample and explicit) which has been ap- 
pended to each of the County collections : and next, because the 
purpose has been still further answered by a copious index, and by 
the d^ree in which it has been found practicable to arrange the 
matter of the several Accounts, uniformly, under a few distinct 
heads. 

If the work has exceeded the limits first proposed, this is to be 
ascribed to the circumstance, that many of the clergy addressed 
themselves to the task with more zeal and research, and with 
greater stores of information on the various subjects of inquiry, 
than could have been anticipated at the commencement The 
Committee might have noticed also, with some solicitude on this 
point, their own limited privilege of abridgment, (limited by the 
terms, on which the contributions were both asked and given ;) were 
they not assured that the enlargement of the work beyond the ex-> 
tent first intended, has been fully compensated by the greater inte- 
rest and value it has thus received. 

The Society were led^ as they formerly stated, to engage in this 
undertaking by the circumstance of then* havmg possessed the pro- 
perty of the first Statistical Account, which was conveyed to them 
by its benevolent and public-spirited projector. This, and the re- 
lation in which they stood to the Church, seemed to afford them 
an opportunity of doing a farther service to the public, by means 
of a new Account adapted to the present circumstances of the 
country. The prq)osal to obtain such an Account was first made 
• to them by their Secretary, Sir Henry Jardine. 

It is not exactly their part to estimate the value of the work 
which thus originated, or to determine how far its object has been 
attained. But, as it is truly the production of the clergy, the 
Committee may be permitted to observe, that the Church of Scot* 
land appears to them to have here furnished a compilation which 
must long be regarded as a monument of the intelligence of its 
clergy, and of that varied and intimate acquaintance with the af- 
fairs, history, condition, and resources of their parishes, which the 



Ill 

ecclesiastical constitution they enjoy gives them such peculiar op- 
portunities of obtaining. 

The Committee are well aware that errors and defects are insepa- 
rable firom a work of the nature and extent of the present; and 
they doubt not that this neceseity (for, in effect, it is nothing less) will 
be duly coniddered in any estimate of its merits. They would only 
suggest, as among the causes of any imperfection that may be obser- 
ved, — the want of a system of accurate registrations throughout the 
country, and the little opportunity which many of the contributors 
could enjoy to make the necessary investigations concerning the 
history of their parishes. They would notice, too, as the occafflon 
of a certain disadvantage, the unusual number of individuals con- 
tributing, and the consequent inequality in the execution of the 
parts ; were not this diversity, at the same time, the cause of a 
great part of the peculiar interest which, they hope, may be assumed 
as attaching to the work. Above all, it will be remembered 
that a Statistical Account of any country implies something more 
than the mere reporting of ascertained facts ; and that it can- 
not be accomplished, in all points completely, without great and 
various labour in the ascertainment of the fiicts to be reported, — 
by the scientific survey of its physical qualities, by inquiries into 
its past history and situation, and by the close investigation of its 
actual state, industrial, social, and moral. It was with such mul- 
tifarious preparation that the Ordnance Survey of Ireland pro- 
ceeded in compiling their admirable Memoir of ^the Parish of 
Templemore. But the same method could not be followed, to the 
same extent, in the present undertaking ; which was unaided by 
the public funds, and has been supported throughout by no 
other means than such as might be expected to be returned in the 
event of its success. It may be added, that the same condition of 
entire self-dependence necessarily affected the plan of the work ; 
which, it is readily admitted, would have been, in some respects, 
different under favour of other circumstances. 

In announcing the completion of the undertaking, the Commit- 
tee desire gratefully to acknowledge how much its progress was en- 
couraged by the interest which the General Assembly, at the com- 



IV 

mencement, expressed in its success. They desire/ also, to ac- 
knowledge the obligations under which they have been placed by 
the willing and able services of the Clergy. 

To Sir Henry Jardine the work has been indebted not only as 
already noticed, but for the judicious counsel which he was at all 
times ready to a£Pord in the various arrangements by which its pro- 
gress was promoted. In the same manner, much valuable assis- 
tance was obtained from Andrew Tawse, Esq. W.S., Treasurer to 
the Society. 

The Committee have further to acknowledge the important aid 
which, throughout the work, they derived from Professor Jameson, 
in the department of Natural History. Nor can they omit to 
record* how deeply indebted in this matter, are the Society, the 
Church of Scotland, and the country at large, to the enterprising 
publishers, Messrs Blackwood ; but for whose disinterested zeal 
for the public good, and generous reliance on the ultimate suc- 
cess of the undertaking, it may be truly said, it would not have 
been attempted. 

The Manuscripts of all the Accounts, as originally transmitted 
to the Committee, will be deposited among the Records of the 
Church. Except in the few instances in which these have been 
specially referred to, all that they contain of general interest or 
value appears in the printed Accounts. 

John Gordon, 

Sec^ io Superintending Committee and Ed, 
May 1845. 



At Edinburgh the thirty-first day of May Eighteen hundred and 

forty -five years. 
Which day the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland be- 
ing met and constituted, Mr Walter Cook gave in the Report of the 
Committee of the Society for the Sons and Daughters of the Clergy 
superintending the New Statistical Account of Scotland. The 
General Assembly having received the Report of the Society for the 
Sons and Daughters of the Clergy superintending the New Statis- 



tical Account of Scotland, express their satisfaction in the comple- 
tion of the important work which the Society and the Clergy have 
thus provided for the benefit of the country : and regarding both the 
'intention of the work and the care and intelligence which the Cler- 
gy have employed in its preparation as in the highest degree credit- 
able to them and to the Society, they trust that a recompense 
for their labours will be found in its acknowledged usefulness, by 
illustrating as it does the state and resources of the country ; and 
they would hope that its success otherwise may be so great as to 
afford some benefit to the fund under the management of the So- 
ciety. 

Extracted from the Records of the General Assembly of the 

Church of Scotland. 



1 



ALPHABETICAL LIST 



OF 



PARISHES. 



L- i 



-^ r- 



I: 



VJ 



li 



r 



k.. 



.•V 



t 

i 



>^«*1 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PARISHES. 



ABBEY ST BATHANS, 

ABBOTSHALL, 

ABDIE, 

ABERCOEN, 

ABERCROMBIE, 

ABBRDALGIE AND DrPPLIN, 

ABERDEEX, 

ABERDOUR) 

ABERDOUR, 

ABBRPOTLE, 

ABERLADY, 

ABERLEBfNO, 

ABERLOUR, 

ABBRNETHY, 

ABERNETHYy 

ABBRNYTE, 

ABOYNE AND GLENTANNER, 

AIRLIE, 

AIRTH, 

ALFORD, 

ALLOA, 

ALNESS, 

ALVA, 

ALVA, 

ALVBS, 

ALVIE, 

ALYTH, 

ANCRUM, 

ANNAN, 

ANSTRUTHER EASTER, 

ANSTRUTHER WESTER, 

ANWOTII, 

APPLECROSS, 

APPLEGARTH AND SIBBALDBIE, 

ARBIRLOT, 

ARBROATH, 

ARBUTHNOTT, 

ARDCHATTAN, 

ARDCLAGB, 

ARDERSIER, 

ARDNAMURCHAN, 

ARDROSSAN, 

ARNOASK, 

ARROCHAR, • 

ASHKIRK, 

VOL. I. 



VoL II. BERWICK, p. 105 

vol. IX. PIPE, p. 146 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 47 

vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 18 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 337 

VoL X. PERTH, p. 875 

vol- XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1 

vol, Xn. ABERDEEN, p. 258 

vol IX. FIFE, p. 716 

TOl. X. PERTH, p. 1 150 

VoL II. HADDINGTON,' p. 249 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 626 

vol. XIII. BANFF, p. 110 

VoL XIII. ELGIN, p. 92 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 838 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 219 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1047 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 670 

vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 28 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 485 

vol. VIII. CLACKMANNAN, p. I 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 332 

vol XIII. BANFF, p. 144 

vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 175 

vol. XIII. ELGIN, p. 101 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 8t 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1110 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 241 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 516 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 295 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 611 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 373 
vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 99 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 170 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 332 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 74 
vol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 153 
vol. VII. ARGYVE, p. 468 
vol. XIII. NAIRN, p 26 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 462 
vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 117 
vol. V. AYR, p. 191 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 882 
vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 94 
vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 268 

B 



Popuim. 
in 1841. 

146 

4811 

1508 

2146 

1157 

360 

64778 

1643 

1916 

543 

1050 

1023 

1352 

1832 

1920 

280 

1138 

868 

1498 

1037 

10378 

1269 

1497 

2216 

913 

972 

2910 

1407 

5471 

997 

449 

883 

2861 

857 

1045 

8707 

1015 

1461 

1177 

1475 

5581 

4947 

750 

580 

563 



LIST OF PARISHES. 



ASSYNT, 


vol. 


ATHELSTANEFORD, 


vol. 


AUCHINDOIR AND KEARN, . 


vol. 


AUCHINLECK, 


vol. 


AUCHTERARDER, 


vol. 


AUCHTERDERRAN, . 


vol. 


AUCHTERGAVEN, 


vol. 


AUCHTERHOUSE, 


vol. 


AUCHTERLESS, 


vol. 


AUCHTERUUCHTY, . 


vol. 


AUCHTERTOOL, 


vol. 


AULDEARN, 


vol. 


AVOCH, 


vol. 


AVONDALE, 


vol. 


AYR, 


vol. 


AY TON, 


vol. 


BALDERNOCK, 


vol. 


BALFRON, 


vol. 


BALLANTRAE, 


vol. 


BALLINGRY, 


vol. 


BALMACLELLAN, 


vol. 


BALMAGHIE, 


vol. 


BALMERINO, 


vol. 


BALQUHIDDER, 


vol. 


BANCHORY-DEVENICK, 


vol. 


BANCHORY-TERNAN, 


vol. 


BANFF, 


vol. 


BARR, 


vol. 


BARRAY, 


vol. 


BARRY, 


vol. 


BARVAS, 


vol. 


BATHGATE, 


vol. 


BEATH, 


vol. 


BEDRULE, 


vol. 


BEITH, 


voL 


BELHELVIE, 


voL 


BELLI E, 


vol. 


BENDOCHY, 


vol. 


BENHOLMB, 


vol. 


BERTRAM SHOTTS, . 


vol. 


BERVIE, 


vol. 


BIGGAR, 


vol. 


BIRNIB, 


vol. 


BIRSAY AND HARRY, 


vol. 


BIRSE, 


vol. 


BLACKFORD, 


vol. 


BLAIR ATHOL, 


vol. 


BLAIR COWRIE, 


vol. 


BLANTYRE, 


vol. 


BOHARH, 


vol. 


BOINDIE, 


vol. 


BOLESKINE AND ABERTARFg 


^ vol. 


BOLTON, 


vol. 


BONHILL, 


vol. 


BORGUE, 


vol. 


BORROWSTOUNNESS, 


vol. 


BORTHWICK, 


vol. 


BOTHKENNAR, 


vol. 


BOTH WELL, 


vol. 



XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 105 
II. HADDINGTON, ]>• 41 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 406 

V. AYR, p. 322 
X. PERTH, p. 265 

IX. FIFE, p. 165 

X. PERTH, p. 423 

XI. FORFAR, p. 648 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 285 
IX FIFE, p. 781 

IX. FIFE, p 249 
XIII NAIRN, p. 9 
XIV. ROSS, p. 381 

VI. LANARK, p. 301 
V. AYR, p. 1 

II. BERWICK, p. 130 
VIII. STIRLING, p. 169 

VIII. STIRLING, p. 288 
V. AYR, p. 415 

IX. FIFE, p. 446 

IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 98 

IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 178 

IX. FIFE, p. 577 

X. PERTH, p. 344 

XI. KINCARDINE, p. 178 
XI. KINCARDINE, p. 323 

XIII. BANFF, p. 1 

V. AYR, p 407 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 198 
XI. FORFAR, p. 659 

XIV. ROSS, p. 141 

II. LINLITHGOW, p. 149 

IX. FIFE, p. 174 

III. ROXBURGH, p. 279 

V. AYR, p. 570 

•XII. ABERDEEN, p. 241 
Xlll. ELGIN, p. J 15 

X. PERTH, p. 1 176 

XI. KINCARDINE, p. 51 

VI. LANARK, p. 624 

XI. KINCARDINE, p. 1 
VI. LANARK, p. 354 
XIII. ELGIN, p 82 

XV. ORKNEY, p. 148 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 786 
X. PERTH, p. 297 

X. PERTH, p. 558 
X. PERTH, p. 896 
VI. LANARK, p. 314 

XIII. BANFF, p 355 

XIII. BANFF, p. 220 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 51 
II. HADDINGTON, p. 271 
VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 220 
VI. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 47 
II. LINLITHGOW, p. 120 

I. EDINBURGH, p. 150 
VIII. STIRLING, p. 201 
VI. LANARK, p. 765 



Popula. 
in 1841. 

3178 
• 991 
1188 
1659 
3434 
1913 
3366 

769 
1685 
3356 

530 
1466 
1931 
6180 
8264 
1784 

972 
1970 
1651 

436 
1184 
1252 

993 

87 

2786 

2241 

3958 

959 
2363 
2124 
3850 
3928 

973 

256 
5795 
1594 
2434 

783 
1648 
3861 
J342 
1865 

407 
2406 
1295 
1782 
2231 
3471 
3047 
1261 
1501 
1876 

341 
6682 
1117 
2347 
1617 

849 
11179 



^ 



LIST OF PARISHBB. 



BOTllPHNIE, vol. 

BOURTRIB, VoL 

BOWDEN, VoL 

BOWER, vol. 

BRACADALBy . VOl. 

BRBCHEN, vol. 
BRESSAV, BURRA, AND QUARFP, VOl. 

BROU6HTON, GLENHOLM, AND . 

KILBUCHO, . •" 

BUCHANAN,^ vol. 

BUITTLE, vol. 

BUNKLE AND PRESTON, . vol. 

BURNTISLAND, VOl. 

CABRACH, . vol. 

CADDER, . vol. 

CAERLAV BROCK, . VOl. 

CAIRNIE, vol. 

CALLANDER, Vol. 

CAHBUSLANO, VOl. 

CAMBUSNETHAN, . VOl. 

CAMERON, vol. 

CAMPBBLTON, VOl. 

CAMPS IE, vol. 

CANISBAV, . vol. 

CANONBIB, vol. 

CAPUTH, . VoL 

CARDROSS, vol. 

CARESTON vol. 

CAROILL, . vol. 

CARLUKE, vol. 

CARMICHAEL, Vol. 

CARMUNNOCK, . vol. 

CARMTLIE, . vol. 

CARNBEE, . vol. 

CARNOCK, vol. 

CARNWATH, VOl. 

CARRIDEN, . vol. 

CARRIN6TON, . Vol. 

CARSPUAIRN, . vol. 

CARSTAIRS, . vol. 

CASTLETOWN, . VOl. 

CATHCART, . VOl. 

CAVERS, . vol. 

CAWDOR, . vol. 

CERES, • vol. 

CHANNELKIRK, . Vol. 

CHAPEL OF GARIOCH, VOl. 

CHIRNSIDE, vol. 

CLACKMANNAN, . Vol. 

CLATT, . vol. 

CLEISH, . • vol. 

CLOSEBURN, . Vol. 

CLUNY, . . vol. 

CLUNT, vol 

CLTNE, . vol. 

COCKBURNSPATH, . VOl. 

COCKPEN, . . vol. 

COLDINGHAM, . VOl. 

COLDSTREAM, • VOl. 



XIII. BANFF, p. 209 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 620 
III. ROXBURGH, p. 94 
XV. CAITHNESS, p. 114 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 295 

XI. FORFAR, p. 129 

XV. SHETLAND, p. 7 

III. PEEBLES, p. 78 

VIII. STIRLING, p. 89 

IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 200 
II. BERWICK, p. 1 14 

IX FIFE, p. 404 

XIII. BANFF, p. 196 
VI. LANARK, p. 391 
IV. DUMFRIES, p. 349 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1017 

X. PERTH, p. 349 
VI. LANARK, p. 416 

VI. LANARK, p. 608 

IX. FIFE, p. 304 

VII. ARGTLE, p. 453 

VIII. STIRLING, p. 234 
XV. CAITHNESS, p. 21 
IV. DUMFRIES, p. 483 

X PERTH, p. 670 

VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 83 

XI. FORFAR, p. 518 

X. PERTH, p. 1167 
VI. LANARK, p. 563 
VI. LANARK, p. 517 
VI. LANARK, p. 597 

XI. FORFAR, p. 351 

IX. FIFE, p. 913 
IX FIFE, p. 690 

VI. LANARK, p. 76 

II. LINLITHGOW, p. 54 

I. EDINBURGH, p. 61 1 

IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 273 
VI LANARK, p. 547 
III ROXBURGH, p. 440 

VII. RENFREW, p. 495 

III. ROXBURGH, p. 425 

XIII. NAIRN, p. 19 
IX. FIFE, p. 517 

II. BERWICK, p. 88 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 560 
II. BERWICK, p. 124 

VIII. CLACKMANNAN, p. 121 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 84% 

IX. KINROSS, p. 32 

IV. DUMFRIES, p. 77 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1018 

X. PERTH, p. 1024 

XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 149 
11. BERWICK, p. 290 

I. EDINBURGH, p. 606 

II. BERWICK, p. 279 
II BERWICK^ p. 199 



XI 

Popula. 
in 1841. 

714 
469 
657 
1689 
1824 
7560 
1798 

764 

754 

1059 

748 

2210 

827 

4425 

1297 

1638 

1665 

3022 

5796 

1167 

9634 

6402 

2306 

3032 

2317 

4416 

218 

1642 

4802 

874 

717 

1107 

1043 

1270 

3550 

1208 

616 

790 

950 

2135 

S349 

1709 

1150 

2944 

786 

2038 

1203 

5145 

524 

681 

1530 

959 

763 

1765 

1149 

2345 

2746 

2857 



XII 



LIST OF PABI8HB8. 



COLINTON, 

COLLACEy 

COLLESSIE, 

COLMONELL, 

COLVEND AND SOUTHWICK, 

COMRIB, 

CONTIN, 

CORSTORPHINE, 

CORTACHY AND CLOVA, 

COULL, 

COUPAR ANGUS, 

COVINGTON AND THANKERTON, 

COYLTON, • 

CRAIG, 

CRAIGIE, 

CRAI6NISH, 

CRAIL, 

CRAILING, . 

CRAMOND, . 

CRANSBAWS, 

CRANSTON, 

CRATHIE AND BRAEMAR, 

CRAWFORD! OHNy 

CRAWFURD, 

CREICH, 

CRICHTON, 

CRIECH, 

CRIEFF, 

CRIMOND, 

CROMARTY, 

CROMDALE, 

CROSS AND BURNESS, 

CROSSMICHABL, 

CROY AND DALCROSS, 

CRUDEN, 

CULLEN, 

CULROSS, 

CULS ALMOND^ 

CULTER, 

CULTS, 

CUMBERNAULD, 

CUMBRAE, 

CUMMERTREES, 

CUMNOCK, NEW, 

CUMNOCK, OLD, 

CUPAR ANGUS, 

CUPAR FIFE, 

CURRIE, 

DAILLY, 

DAIRSIE, 

DALGETY, 

DALKEITH, 

DALLAS, 

DALM ELLINGTON, 

DALMENY, . 

DALRY, 

DALRY, 

DALRYMPLE, 

DALSERF, 



vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 107 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 210 

vol IX. FIFE, p. 21 

vol. V. AYR, p. 528 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 215 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 578 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 235 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 205 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 4>34 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 957 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1 141 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 872 

vol. V. AYR, p. 649 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 244 

vol. V. AYR, p. 764 

vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 45 

vol. IX FIFE, p. 941 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 177 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 589 

vol. II BERWICK, p. 99 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 191 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 646 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 497 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 327 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 631 

vol. I, EDINBURGH, p. 56 

vol. XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 17 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 487 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 702 . 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 1 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 432 

vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 85 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 190 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 444 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 978 

vol. XIII. BANFF, p. 313 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 597 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 727 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 340 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 558 

vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 135 

vol. V. BUTE, p. 69 

VoL IV. DUMFRIES, p. 244 

vol. V. AYR, p. 509 

vol. V. AYR, p. 475 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1J41 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 1 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 542 

vol. V. AYR, p. 381 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 770 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 181 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 451 

vol. XIII. ELGIN, p. 178 

vol. V. AYR, p. 308 

vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 90 

vol. V. AYR, p. 210 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 369 

vol. V. AYR, p. 273 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 719 



Popiila. 
ml841. 

2195 

702 
1346 
2801 
1495 
2471 
1770 
1551 

867 

744 
2745 

523 
1464 
1945 

779 

873 
1737 

667 
1981 

120 
1128 
1712 

993 
1684 

430 
1384 
2682 
4333 

767 
2662 
3561 

983 
1321 
1684 
2349 
1564 
1444 
1104 

536 

889 
4501 
1413 
1277 
2382 
2836 
2745 
6758 
2000 
2272 

669 
1265 
5830 
1179 
1199 
1393 
4791 
1215 
909 
3205 



LIST OF PA&ISHES. 



DALTON, 


vol. 


DALZELL, 


vol. 


DAVIOT, 


vol. 


DAVIOT AND DUNLICHITY, 


vol. 


DEER, NEW, 


vol. 


DEER, OLD, 


vol. 


DELTIN6, 


vol. 


DENNY, 


vol. 


DBSKFORD, 


vol. 


DINGWALL, 


voL 


DIRLETON, 


vol. 


DOLLAR, 


vol. 


DOLPHIN TON, 


vol. 


DORNOCH, • 


vol. 


DORNOCK, 


vol 


DORRES, 


vol. 


DOUGLAS, 


vol. 


DRAINIB, 


vol. 


DREGHORN, ^ . 


voL 


DRON, 


voL 


DRUMBLADE, 


vol. 


DRUMMELZIER, 


vol. 


DRCMOAK, 


vol. 


DRYFESDALE, 


vol. 


DRYMEN, 


vol. 


DUDDINGSTON, 


vol. 


DUFFUS, 


voL 


DULL, 


vol. 


DUMFRIES, 


vol. 


DUN, 


voL 


DUNBAR, 


vol. 


DUNBARNY, 


vol. 


DUNBARTON, 


vol. 


DUNBLANE, 


vol. 


DUNBOG, 


vol. 


DUNDEE, 


vol. 


DUN DONALD, 


vol. 


DUNFERMLINE, 


vol. 


DUNINO, 


voL 


DUNIPACB, 


vol. 


DUNKELD AND DOW ALLY, . 


vol. 


DUNKELD, LITTLE, . 


vol. 


DUNLOP, 


vol. 


DUNNET, 


vol. 


DUNNICHEN, 


vol. 


DUNNING, 


voL 


DUNOTTAR, 


vol. 


DUNOON AND KILMUN, 


vol. 


DUNROSSNBSS, 


vol. 


nDUNSCORE, . 


vol. 


DUNSE, 


vol. 


DUNSYRE, 


voL 


DURINISH, . 


vol. 


DURISDEER, 


vol. 


DURNESS, . 


vol. 


DURRIS, 


vol. 


DUTHILL, 


vol. 


DYCE, 


vol. 



Included 



IV. DUMFRIES, p. 371 
VI. LANARK, p. 442 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 821 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 513 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 175 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 138 

XV. SHETLAND, p. 56 
VIII. STIRLING, p. 1 15 

XIII. BANFF, p. 63 

XIV. ROSS, p. 210 

II. HADDINGTON, p. 20^ 
VIII CLACKMANNAN, p. 76 
VI LANARK, p. 40 

XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 1 

IV. DUMFRIES, p. 256 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 373 

VI. LANARK, p. 477 
XIII. ELGIN, p. 145 

V. AYR, p. 523 

X. PERTH, p. 862 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 297 

III. PEEBLES, p. 71 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 872 

IV. DUMFRIES, p. 451 
VIII. STIRLING, p. 99 

I. EDINBURGH, p. 381 

XIII. ELGIN, p. 33 

X. PERTH, p. 752 
IV DUMFRIES, p. 1 

XI. FORI^AR, p. 123' 

II. HADDINGTON, p. 70 
X, PERTH, p. 790 

VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 1 

X. PERTH, p. 1038 

IX. FIFE, p. 205 

XI. FORFAR, p. 1 

V. AYR, p. 666 
IX. FIFE, p. 821 

IX. FIFE, p. 356 
VIII. STIRLING, p. 379 

X. PERTH, p. 958 

X. PERTH, p. 1005 

V. AYR, p. 288 

XV. CAITHNESS, p. 34 

XI. FORFAR, p. 142 

X PERTH, p. 716 

XI KINCARDINE, p. 212 

VII. AR6YLE, p. 567 
XV. SHETLAND, p. 93 
IV. DUMFRIES, p. 336 
II. BERWICK, p. 246 

VI. LANARK, p. 64 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 322 
IV. DUMFRIES, p. 323 

XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 82 

XI. KINCARDINE, p. 170 
XIII. ELGIN, p. 123 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 120 

in Larbert 



xm 

Popula. 
in 1841. 

638 
1457 

643 
1681 
3756 
4453 
2019 
4916 

860 
2100 
1497 
1562 

305 
2714 

847 
1745 
2467 
1515 
1222 

441 

945 

228 

811 
2093 
1515 
4366 
2529 

752 
11409 

581 
4471 
1104 
3828 
3361 

219 

62794 

6716 

20217 

471 

* 

1752 
2718 
1206 
1880 
1625 
2128 
1873 
4211 
4494 
1517 
3162 

288 
4983 
1445 
1109 
1109 
1769 

472 



XIV 

DYKE AND MOV, 

DTSART, 

BAGLESHAM, 

EARLSTON, 

EASSIE AND NEVAY, 

EASTWOOD, 

BCCL£S, 

ECCLESMACHAN, 

ECHT, 

ECKFORD, 

EDDBRACHILLIS, 

EDDBRTOUN, 

BDDLESTONE, 

EDINBURGH, 

EDINKILLIE, 

BDNAM, 

BDROM, 

BDZBLL, 

ELGIN, 

BLIE, 

BLLON, 

BRROL, 

BRSKINE, 

BSKDALEHUIR^ 

BTTRICK, 

BVIE AND RENDALL» 

EWES, 

ETBHOUTH, 

FALA AND SOUTRAy 

FALKIRK» 

FALKLAND, 

FARNELL, 

FARB, 

FBARN, 

FBARN, 

FBNWICK, 

PBRRT-PORT-ON-CRAIG, 

PETLAR AND NORTH TELL, 

FBTTERCAIRN, 

FBTTERBSSO, 

FINHAYEN, 

FINTRAT, 

FINTRY, 

FIRTH AND STBNNBSS, 

PLI6K, 

FODDERTY, 

FOGO, 

FDRDOUN, 

FORDYCB, 

FORFAR, 

FORGAN, 

FORGANDENNY, 

FORGLEN, 

FORGUE. 



FORRES, 

FORTEVIOT, 

FORTINGAL, 

F0S60WAY AND TULLIEBOLB 

FOULDEN, . 



LIST OF PABIBHBS. 



vol. 

voL 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol 

vol. 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

roL 

voL 

vol. 

voL 

voL 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 

vol. 



.*- 


PopuU. 
in 1841. 


XIII. ELGIN, p. 202 


1366 


IZ. FIFE, p. 127 


7591 


VII. RENFREW, p. 383 


2428 


II. BERWICK, p. 18 


1756 


ZI. FORFAR, p. 475 


732 


VII. RENFREW, p. 33 


7970 


II. BERWICK, p. 50 


1946 


II. LINLITHGOW, p. 109 


303 


ZII. ABERDEEN, p. 735 


1078 


III ROXBURGH, p. 220 


l(t69 


XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 1 18 


1699 


XIV. ROSS, p. 433 


975 


III. PEEBLES, p. 146 


742 


I. EDINBURGH, p. 614 


138182 


XIII. ELGIN, p. 159 


1^7 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 419 


615 


II. BERWICK, p. 266 


1415 


XI. FORFAR, p. 621 


1064 


XIII. ELGIN, p. 1 # 


6083 


IX. FIFE, p. 278 


907 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 899 


2941 


X. PERTH, p. 367 


28a2 


VII. RENFREW, p. *500 


1407 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 398 


046 


III. SELKIRK, p. 59 


525 


XV. ORKNEY, p. 196 


1518 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 437 


328 


II. BERWICK, p. 318 


1401 


I. EDINBURGH, p. 534 


393 


VIII. STIRLING, p. 1 


15621 


IX. FIFE, p. 920 


2886 


XI. FORFAR, p. 109 


620 


XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 66 


2217 


XL FORFAR, p. 31 1 


404 


XIV. ROSS, p. .360 


1914 


V. AYR, p. 773 


2018 


IX. FIFE, p. 81 


1741 


XV. SHETLAND, p. 23 


1745 


XI. KINCARDINE, p. 1 1 1 


1793 


XI. KINCARDINE>p. 244 


5212 


XI. FORFAR, p. 291 


420 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 166 


1032 


VIII. STIRLING, p. 38 


884 


XV. ORKNEY, p. 67 


1167 


IX. FIFE, p. 595 


270 


XIV. ROSS, p. 344 


2437 


II. BERWICK, p. 223 


455 


XI. KINCARDINE, p. 66 


2342 


XIII. BANFF, p. 178 


3442 


XI. FORFAR, p. 691 


9620 


IX. FIFE, p. 505 


1219 


X. PERTH, p. 948 


796 


XIII. BANFF, p. 83 


771 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 598 


2489 


XIII. ELGIN, p. 145 


3711 


X. PERTH, p. 1172 


638 


X. PERTH, p. 527 


2740 


X. PERTH, p. 1016 


: 1724 


11. BERWICK^ p. 261 


1 393 



POVERAN, 


vol. 


FOULI9 WESTER, 


vol. 


FRASERBURGH, 


vol. 


PTVIE, 


vol. 


GAIRLOCII, 


vol. 


GALASHIELS, 


vol. 


OALSTON, 


vol. 


GAMRIB, 


vol. 


GAROUNNOCK, 


vol. 


6ARTLY, 


vol. 


6ARVALD AND BARA, 


vol. 


6ARV0CK, . 


vol. 


GASK, 


vol. 


OIGHA AND CARA, 


vol. 


GlItTHON, 


vol. 


GIRVAN, 


vol. 


GLADSMUIR, 


vol. 


GLAMHISS, 


vol. 


GLASFORD, 


vol. 


GLASGOW, 


vol. 


GLASS, 


vol. 


GLASSART, 


vol. 


GLASSERTON, 


vol. 


GLBNBERVIE, 


vol. 


GLBNBUCKET, 


vol. 


GLENCAIRN, 


vol. 


GLENCROSS, 


vol. 


GLENDOVAN, 


vol. 


GLBNELG, 


vol. 


GLBNI9LA, 


vol. 


GLBNMUICK, TULLICH, AND 


vol. 


GLENGAIRN, 


GLENS KIEL, 


vol. 


GLENURCHY AND INISHAIL, 


vol. 


GOLSPIB, 


vol. 


GORDON, 


vol. 


GOVAN, 


vol. 


GRAITNEY, . 


vol. 


GRANGE, 


vol. 


GRBBNLAW, 


vol. 


GREENOCK, 


vol. 


GUTHRIE, . 


vol. 


HADDINGTON, 


vol. 


HALKIRK, . 


vol. 


HAMILTON, 


vol. 


HARRIS, • 


vol. 


HAWICK, 


vol. 


HBRIOT, 


vol. 


HOBKIRK, 


vol. 


HODDAM, 


voL 


HOLME AND PAPLAY, 


vol. 


ROLYWOOD, 


vol. 


HOUNAM, 


vol. 


HOUSTON AND KILLALLAN, 


vol. 


HOY AND ORAEMSAYy 


vol. 


HUMBIB, 


v<d. 


HUNTLY, 


vol. 


BUTTON, 


vol. 


BUTTON AND CORRIB, 


vol. 



PARISHES. 


XV 




Popula. 
In 1841. 




XII. ABERDEEN, p 697 


1690 


X. PERTH, p. 949 


1609 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. ^249 


3615 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. S16 


3597 


XIV. ROSS, p. 90 


4880 


III. SELKIRK, p. 1 1 


9140 


V. AYR, p. 178 


4334 


XIII. BANFF, p 971 


4741 


VIII. STIRLING, p. 48 


803 


XIII. BANFF, p. 95 


1037 


II. HADDINGTON, p. 96 


869 


XI. KINCARDINE, p. 22 


446 


X. PERTH, p. 981 


436 


VII. AR6YLE, p. 394 


550 


IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 991 


1874 


V. AYR, p. 394 


7494 


II. HADDINGTON, p. 173 


1699 


XI. FORFAR, p.- 337 


9167 


VI. LANARK, p. 294 


1736 


VI. LANARK, p. 101 


974633 


XIII. BANFF, p. 203 


886 


VII. AR6YLE, p. 675 


4700 


IV. WIGTON, p. 36 


1958 


XI. KINCARDINE, p. 165 


1996 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 436 


54S 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 330 


9094 


I. EDINBURGH, p. 310 


708 


X. PERTH, p. 333 


157 


XIV. INVERNESS, p. 128 


9799 


XI. FORFAR, p. 421 


1134 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 779 


9118 


XIV. ROSS, p. 181 


745 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 82 


631 


XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 24 


1914 


II. BERWICK, p. 33 


90S 


VI. LANARK, p. 668 


7810 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 262 


1761 


XIII. BANFF, p. 213 


1661 


II. BERWICK, p. 40 


1355 


VIT. RENFREW, p. 405 


86936 


XI. FORFAR, p. 489 


530 


II. HADDINGTON, p. 1 


5459 


XV. CAITHNESS, p. 68 


9968 


VI. LANARK, p. 249 


10869 


XIV. INVERNESS, p. 155 


4499 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 379 


6578 


I. EDINBURGH, p. 198 


S55 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 208 


776 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 289 


1697 


XV. ORKNEY) p. 204 


866 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 553 


1061 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 188 


980 


VII. RENFREW, p. 46 


9818 


XV. ORKNEY, p. 40 


547 


II. HADDINGTON, p. 100 


881 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1036 


3649 


II. BERWICK, p. 150 


1188 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 537 


809 



' 



XVI 



LIST OF PAKISHBS. 



INCH, 


• 


vol. 


INCHINNAN, 




vol. 


INCHTURE, 




vol. 


INNERKIP, 


\ 


vol. 


INNERLEITHEN, 




vol. 


INNERWICK, 




vol. 


INSGH, 


, 


vol. 


INVERARITY, 




vol. 


INVERARY, 




vol. 


INVERAVEN, 




vol. 


INVBRCHAOLAIN, 




vol. 


INVERRSK, 




vol. 


INVE^RKEILLOR, 




vol. 


INVBRKEITHINO AND ROSYTH, 


vol. 


INVERKEITBNEY, 




vol. 


INVERNESS, 




vol. 


INVERURIE, 




vol. 


IRVINE, 


. . 


vol. 


JEDBURGH, 




vol. 


JOHNSTONE, 




vol. 


JURA, 




voL 


KBIO, 




voL 


KBIR, 


. • 


vol. 


KEITH, 




vol. 


KBITHHALL AND KINKELL, 


vol. 


KEIJ^ 




vol. 


KBLSO, 




voL 


KBLTON, 




vol. 


KBMBACK, 




voL 


KEMNAV, 




vol. 


KBNMORB, 




vol. 


KENNETHMONT, 




vol. 


KEN NOWAY, 




vol. 


KETTINS, 




vol. 


KETTLE, 




vol. 


KILBARCHAN, 




vol. 


KILBIRNIB, 




vol. 


KILBRANDON AND KILCHATTAN, 


vol. 


KILBRIDE, . 


* 


vol. 


KILBRIDE, BAST, 


. 


vol. 


KILBRIDE, WEST, 


. 


vol. 


KILCALHONELL AND KILBERRY, 


vol. 


KILGHOMAN, 


• 


vol. 


KILCHRBNAN AND DALAVICH, 


vol. 


KILCONQUHAR, 


• 


vol. 


KILD ALTON, 


* 


vol. 


KILDONAN, 


. 


vol. 


KILDRUMMY, 


. 


vol. 


KILFINAN, 


• 


vol. 


KILFINICHEN AND KILVICEUEN, 


vol. 


KILLAROW AND KILMBNY, 


vol. 


KILLBAN AND KILCHENZIB, 


vol. 


KILLEARN, 


. 


vol. 


KILLEARNAK, 


• 


vol. 


KILLIN, 


• 


vol. 


KILMADAN, 


. 


vol. 


KILMADOCK, 


• 


vol. 


KILMALCOLM, 


. 


vol. 


KIUIALIE, 


• 


voL 





Popula. 
in 1841. 


IV. WIGTON, p. 80 


2950 


VII. RENFREW, p. 113 


678 


X. PERTH, p. 8S5 


765 


VII. RENFREW, p. 525 


3420 


III. PEBBLES, p. 24 


931 


II. HADDINGTON,. p. 233 


961 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 747 


1379 


XI. FORFAR, p. 234 . 


997 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 1 


2285 


XIII. BANFF, p. 123 


2417 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 108 


699 


I. EDINBURGH, p. S46 


8263 


XI. FORFAR, p. 239 


1879 


IX. FIFE, p. 230 


2530 


XIII. BANFF, p. 211 


687 


XIV. INVERNESS, p. 1 


15418 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 677 


2020 


V. AYR, p. 619 


5214 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 1 


5116 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 151 


1072 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 534 


2299 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 943 


662 


IV. DUMFRIES, p. 460 


984 


XIII. BANFF, p. 388 


4456 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 743 


913 


IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 108 


1121 


III. ROXBURGH, p. 298 


5328 


IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 1 44 


2875 


IX. FIFE, p. 719 


778 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 817 


637 


X. PERTH, p. 452 


2539 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 583 


1107 


IX. FIFE, p. 375 


2044 


XI. FORFAR, p. 641 


1109 


IX. FIFE, p. 103 


2312 


VII. RENFREW, p. 352 


5595 


V. AYR, p. 689 


2631 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 71 


2602 


V. BUTE, p. 1 


2786 


VI. LANARK, p. 877 


3810 


V. AYR, p. 243 


1885 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 408 


2460 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 644 


4505 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 372 


943 


IX. FIFE, p. 315 


2605 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 659 


3315 


XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 133 


256 


XII. ABERDEEN, p. 976 


627 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 359 


1816 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 296 


4113 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 668 


4026 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 376 


2402 


VIII. STIRLING, p. 60 


1224 


XIV. ROSS, p. 63 


1643 


X. PERTH, p. 1066 


1702 


VII. ARGYLE, p. 672 


567 


X. PERTH, p. 1224 


4055 


VII. RENFREW, p. 56 


1616 


XIV. INVERNESS, p. 117 


5397 



1 



LIST OF PABISHE6. 



KILMANY, . 

KILMARNOCK, 
KILMARONOCK, 

KILMARTIN, 

KILMAURS, . 

KILHONIVAIO, 

KILMORACK, 

KILMORE AND KILBRIDEy 

KILMORIBy « 

KILMUIRy 

KILMUIR EASTER, 

KILMUIR AND SUDDT, 

KILNINIAN AND KILMORE, 

KILNINVER AND KILMELFORD, 

KILPATRICK, NEW, 

KILPATRICK, OLD« , 

KILRENNT, . 

KILSPINDIE, 

KILSYTH, 

KILTARLITY, 

KILTEARN, 
KILWINNING, 

KINCARDINE, 

KINCARDINE MONTEITH, 

KINCARDINE 0*NEIL, 

KINCLAVEN, 

KINBLLAR, 

KINFAUNS, 

KINOARTH^ 

KING EDWARD, 

KIN6HORN, 

KINGLA8SIB, 

KINGOLDRUM, 

KINGSBARNS, 

KINGUSSIE, 

KINLOSS, 

KINNAIRD, . 

KINNBFP, 

KINNELL, . 

KINNETTLESy 

KINNOULL, . 

KINROSS, 

KINTAIL, 

KINTORE, 

KIPPEN, 

KIRKCALDY, 

KIRKBEAN, 

KIRKCOLM, • 

KIRKCONNELL, 

KIRKCUDBRIGHT, 

KIRKDBN, 

KIRKGUNZEON, 

KIRKHILL, 

KIRKINNER, 

KIRKINTILLOCH, 

KIRKLISTON, 

KIRKMABRBCK, 

KIRKMAHOB, 

XIRKMAIDBNy 

VOL. I. 



¥0l. IK. FIFE, p. 532 
vol. V. AYR, p. 535 
▼OL VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 211 
VoL VII. ARGYLE, p. 547 
vol. V. AYR, p. 769 
VoL XIV. iNVERNkSS, p. 503 
VoL XIV. INVERNESS, p. 361 
VoL VII. ARGYLE, p. 529 
VOL V. BUTE, p. 40 
VoL XIV. INVERNESS, p. 237 

voL XIV. ROSS, p. 300 
vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 57 

VoL VII. ARGYLE, p. 339 
vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 61 
vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 36 
vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 15 

rol. IX. FIFE, p. 970 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1162 
VOL VIII. STIRLING, p. 138 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 483 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 313 

vol. V. AYR, p. 811 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 403 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1243 
vol. XU. ABERDEEN, p. 831 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 1129 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 114 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 1205 
vol. V. BUTE, p. 82 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 274 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 800 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 194 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 61 1 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 89 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 63 
VoL XIII. ELGIN, p. 195 
VoL X. PERTH, p. 228 
rol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 309 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 393 
VoL XI. FORFAR, p. 206 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 993 
vol. XI. KINROSS, p. 1 
vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 170 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 655 
vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 264 
VoL IX. FIFE, p. 740 
vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 234 
VoL IV. WIGTON, p. 102 
VOL IV. DUMFRIES, p. 314 
VoL IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 1 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 383 
vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 218 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 459 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 9 
vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 168 
VoL I. EDINBURGH, p. 133 
vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 311 
vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 53 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 196 

C 



xvu 

Popula. 
in l84L 

659 

19956 

931 

1233 

2617 . 

2791 

2694 

2773 

3455 

3625 

1486 

2565 

4335 

896 

3457 

7020 

2039 

709 

5613 

2869 

1436 

5251 

2108 

2232 

1857 

880 

483 

720 

931 

2492 

2935 

1155 
440 
968 

2047 

1202 
458 

1029 
853 
437 

2879 

2822 

1168 

1299 

1922 

5275 
891 

1973 

1130 

3525 

1483 
638 

1^29 

1769 

8880 

2989 

1854 

1568 

2202 



XVlll 

KIRKMICHAEL, 

KIRKHICIIAEL, 

KIRKUICHAELy 

KIRKMICHAEL, 

KIRKMICHAEL AND CULLICUDDEN, 

KIRKNEWTON, 

KIRKOSWALD, 

KIRKOWAN, 

KIRKPATRICK-DURHAM, 

KIRKPATRICK-FLEMING, 

K1RKPATRICK-IRONGRAT, . 

KIRKPATRICK-JUXTA, 

KIRKTOWN, 

KIRKURD, 

KIRKWALL, 

KIRRIEMUIR, 

KNAPDALE, NORTH, 

KNAPDALE, SOUTH, . 

KNOCKANDO, 

LADY, 

LADVKIRK, 

LAGGAN, 

LAIRG, 

LANARK, 

LANGHOLM, 

LANGTON, 

LARBERT, . 

LARGO, 

LARGS, • • 

LASSWADE, 

LATHERON, 

LAUDER, 

LAURENCEKIRK, 

LECROPT, 

LEGERWOOD, 

LEITH, 

LBOCHEL AND CUSHNIE, 

LERWICK, 

LESLIE, 

LESLIE, 

LBSMAHAGOW, 

LESSUDDEN, 

LESWALT, 

LETHENDY AND KINLOCH, 

LETHNOT AND NAVAR, 

LEU CHARS, 

LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUHAN, 

LIBERTON, 

LIFF AND BENVIE, 

LILLIESLEAF, 

LINLITHGOW, 

LINTON, 

LINTRATHEN, 

LISHORE AND APPIN, 

LIVINGSTON, 

LOCHALSH, 

LOCHBROOM, 

LOCHCARRON, 

LOCHGOILHBAD AND KILMORICH, 



LIST OF PAKISHRS. 



vol. V. AYR, p. 492 

vol XIII. BANFF, p. 296 
vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 67 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 785 

voL XIV. ROSS, p. 37 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 433 

vol. V. AYR, p. 781 

vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 199 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 256 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 274 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 265 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 164 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 377 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 127 

vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 1 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 158 

vol. VII. ARGYLE,,p. 631 

vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 257 

vol. XIII. ELGIN, p. 60 

vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 133 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 181 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 417 

vol. XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 58 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 1 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 416 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 236 

vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 340 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 434 

vol. V. AYR, p. 786 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 323 

vol. XV. CAITHNESS, p. 83 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 1 

vol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 128 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1160 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 347 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 760 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1 102 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 1 

vol- XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1019 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. Ill 

vol. VI. LANAR1(, p. 30 

vol III. ROXBURGH, p. 104 

vol. IV. WIGTON, p. \23 

vol X. PERTH, p. 1001 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 687 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 217 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 41 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 1 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 568 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 24 

vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 169 

vol. Ill ROXBURGH, p. 145 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 640 

vol. VII, ARGYLE, p. 223 

vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 115 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 260 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 72 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 107 

vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 701 



Popula. 
in 1841. 

2933 

1576 

llOA 

1412 

1549 

1441 

2030 

1423 

1484 

1692 

927 

934 

313 

305 

3599 

7085 

2no 

2223 

1676 

909 

504 

1201 

913 

7679 

2820 

479 

5982 

2751 

4044 

5025 

7637 

2198 

1904 

513 

571 

26433 

1084 

3284 

553 

3625 

6902 

747 

2712 

662 

400 

1901 

796 

3450 

3948 

771 

5950 

526 

981 

4193 

1004 

2597 

4799 

1960 

1018 



LIST OP PARISHES. 



LOCflLEE, 

LOCHMABEN, 

LOCHRUTTON, 

LOCHS, 

LOCHWINNOCH, 

LOG IE, 

L06IE, 

LOOIE BUCHAN, 

LOGIB COLDSTONE, 

LOGIE EASTER, 

LOGIE PERT, 

LOOIERAIT, 

LON6FOROAN, 

LON6FORHACUS AND ELLIM 

LON6SIDE, 

LONHAT, 

LOTH, 

LOUDON, 

LUCE, NEW, 

LUCE, OLD, 

LUMPHANAN, 

LUNAN, 

LUNDIE AND FOWLIS, 

LUSS, 

LYNE AND MEGGET, 

HACHAR, NEW, 

MACBAR, OLD, 

MADDERTT, 

HAINS AND STRATHMARTINE, 

MAKERSTON, 

MANNER, 

MARKINCH, 

MARNOCH, 

MARYCULTER, 

MARYKIRK, 

MARYTOWN, 

MAUCHLINE, 

MAXTON, 

MAVBOLB, 

MEARNS, 

MEIGLE, 

MELDRUM, 

MELROSE, 

MENMUIR, 

MERTON, 

METHLICK, 

METHTEN, 

MIDCALDER, 

MIDDLEBIE, 

MIDMAR, 

MINNIGAFF, 

MINTO, 

MOCHRUM, 

MOFFAT, 

MONEYDIE, 

MONIFIETH, 

MONIK1E, 

MONIMAIL, 

MONIVAIRD AND STROWAN, 



vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 191 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 377 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 286 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 157 

vol. VII. RENFREW, p. 74 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 426 

vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 214 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 799 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1070 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 52 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 263 

vol. X. PERTH y p. 685 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 405 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 93 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 859 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 215 

vol. XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 188 

vol. V. AYR, p. 834 

vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 76 

vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 66 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1079 

vol. XL FORFAR, p. 320 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 455 

vol. VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 155 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 166 

vol. XIL ABERDEEN, p. 1025 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1074 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 748 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 54 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 137 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 1 10 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 655 

vol. XIII. BANFF, p. 382 

vol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 189 

vol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 297 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 115 

vol. V. AYR, p. 158 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 1 15 

vol. V. AYR, p. 348 

vol. VII. RENFREW, p. 512 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 232 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 474 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 51 

vol. Xt. FORFAR, p. 656 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 26 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 962 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 142 

vol. 1. EDINBURGH, p. 356 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 363 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 629 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 1 17 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 352 

vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 60 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 102 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 198 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 539 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 485 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 37 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 723 

Included in Aberdeen. 



XIX 

Popula. 
in 184L 

622 
2809 

659 
3653 
4716 

419 
2200 

713 

936 
1015 
1560 
2959 
1660 

390 
2612 
1919 
2526 
4446 

652 
2448 

964 

272 

734 
1052 

175 

1262 

• 

634 
2110 

355 

270 
5965 
2601 

991 
2387 

452 
2156 

459 
7027 
3077 

728 
1873 
5331 

732 

722 
1737 
2446 
1456 
2150 
1093 
1826 

455 
2539 
2199 

315 
3471 
1317 

I1G2 

853 



XX 

MONKLAND, NEW, 

MONKLAND, OLD, 

MONKTON AND PRBSTWICK, 

MONQU HITTER, 

MONTROSE, 

MONYUUSK, 

MONZIE, 

BfOONZIE, . 

UORDINGTON, 

HOREBATTLE AND MOW, 

HORHAM, 

MORTLACH, 

MORTON, 

MORVERN, 

MOULIN,. 

MOUSWALD, 

MOY AND DALAROSSIK, 

MUCKAIRN, 

MUCKART, . 

MUIRAVONSIDE, 

MUIRKIRK, . 

MURROES, 

MUTHIL, 

NitIRN, 

NEILSTON, . 

NENTHORN, 

NESTING, • . 

NEW ABBEY, 

NEWBATTLE, 

NEWBURGH,. 

NEWBURN, 

NEWHILLS„ 

NEW LANDS, 

NEWTON, 

NEWTON ON AYR, 

NEWTYLE, 

NIGG, 

NIGG, 

NORTH BERWICK, 

NORTHMAVING, 

OATH LAW, . 

OCHILTREE, 

OLDHAMSTOCKS,. 

OLRICK, 

ORDIQUHILL, 

ORMISTON, 

ORPHIR, 

ORWELL, 

OXNAM, 

OYNE, 

PAISLEY, 

PANBRIDE, 

PARTON, 

PEEBLES, 

PENCAITLAND, 

PENICUICK, 

PENNINGHAMR, 

PENPONT, 

PERTH, 



LIST OF PA&ISHES. 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 242 

vol. VI. LANARK, p. 635 

vol. V. AYR, p. 169 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 762 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 271 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 469 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 262 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 786 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 337 

vol. II L ROXBURGH, p. 447 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 261 

vol. XIII. BANFF, p. 103 

vol. IV. I^UHFRIES, p- 91 

vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 163 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 637 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 442 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 97 

vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 509 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 301 

vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 205 

vol. V. AYR, p. 147 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p- 591 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 311 

vol. XIII. NAIRN, p. 1 

vol. VII. RENFREW, p. 307 

vol. II. BERWICK, p. 215 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 53 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 244 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 63 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 56 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 124 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 237 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 135 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 557 

vol. V. AYR, p. 86 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 558 

vol. XL KINCARDINE, p. 195 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 18 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 317 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 70 

vol. XL FORFAR, p. 291 

vol. V. AYR, p. 105 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 355 

vol. XV. CAITHNESS, p. 59 

vol. XIII. BANFF, p. 79 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 130 

vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 13 

vol. IX. KINROSS, p. 52 

vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 252 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 634 

vol. VII. RENFREW, p. 135 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 67 

vol- IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 282 

vol- III. PEEBLES, p. 1 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 344 

vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 29 

vol IV. WIGTON, p. 167 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 499 

vol. X. PERTH, p. I 



Popuk. 
in 1841. 

905J1 

19709 

1933 

S074 

15096 

895 

lS6i 

174 

399 

1051 

S87 

2594 

2161 

1774 

2017 

683 

967 

960 

706 

2249 

3125 

736 

3067 

3393 

10577 

446 

2294 

1049 

2033 

2897 

419 

2865 

1063 

1743 

4482 

1264 

1642 

1426 

1708 

2504 

420 

1601 

694 

1584 

637 

826 

1064 

2715 

653 

796 

60487 

1380 

808 

2632 

1127 

2572 

3672 

1266 

19293 



LIST OF PABISHES. 



PETERCULTER, VOl. 

PETERHEAD, , VoL 

I^BTTIE, . vol! 

PETTINAIN, vol. 

PITSLIGO, . vol. 

PITTENWBEM, Vol. 

POLMONT, , vol. 

POLWARTH, vol. 

PORT-OLASGOW, Vol. 

PORTMOAK, , vol. 

PORT OF MENTEITH, vol. 

PORTPATRICK, . vol. 

PORTREE, . vol. 

PREMNAY, . vol. 

PRESTONKIRK, . vol. 

PRBSTONPANS, VOl. 

QUEENSFERRY, Vol. 

RAFFORD, vol. 

RATMEN, . vol. 

RATHO, . vol. 

RATHVEN, vol. 

RATTRAY, Vol. 

RAYNE, . vol. 

RBAY, . vol. 

REDGORTON, VOl. 

RENFREW, vol. 

RERRICK, . vol. 

RESCOBIE, . vol. 

RHIND, . vol, 

RHYNIE, VoL 

RICCARTON, . vol. 

ROBERTON, VOl. 

ROGART, . vol. 

RONALDSHAY AND BURRAY, Vol. 

ROSEMARKIE, . vol. 

ROSENEATH, . vol. 

ROSLIN, vol. 

ROSSKEEN, vol. 

ROTHES, vol. 

ROTHESAY, Vol. 

ROTUIEMAY, Vol. 

ROTHIEMURCHUS, Vol. 

ROUSAY AND EAGLESHAY, Vol. 

ROW, vol. 

ROXBURGH, vol. 

RUTHERGLEN, . vol. 

RUTHYEN, . vol. 

RUTHWELL, . vol. 

SADDELL AND SKIPNESS^ . Vol. 

ST ANDREWS, . vol. 

ST ANDREWS, . vol. 

ST ANDREWS LHANBRYD, Vol. 

ST CYRUS, . vol. 

ST FERGUS, , vol. 

ST LEONARDS, VOl. 

ST MADOES, . vol. 
ST MARTINS AND CAMBUSUICUAEL, Yol. 

ST MONANS, vol. 

ST MUNGO, . vol. 



XII. ABERDEEN, p. 105 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 344 
XIY. INVERNESS, p. 375 
YI. LANARK, p. 535 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 396 
IX. FIFE, p. 983 

VIII. STIRLING, p. 191 
II. BERWICK, p. ii;3I 
VII. RENFREW, p. 62 

IX. KINROSS, p. 30 

X. PERTH, p. 1095 
IV. WIGTON, p. 129 

XIV. INVERNESS, p. 218 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 692 
II. HADDINGTON, p. 1 18 
II. HADDINGTON, p. 324 

II. LINLITHGOW, p. 1 

XIII. ELGIN, p. 238 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 293 
I. EDINBURGH, p. 76 

XIII. BANFF, p. 245 
X. PERTH, p. 239 
XII. ABERDEEN, p. 42 1 

XV. CAITHNESS, p. 12 

X. PERTH^ p. 562 

VII. RENFREW, p. 1 

IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 354 

XI. FORFAR, p. 596 

X. PERTH, p. 361 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1015 

V. AYR, p. 605 

III. ROXBURGH, p. 87 
XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 46 
XV. ORKNEY, p. 191 

XIV. ROSS, p. 348 

VIII. DUNBARTON,p. 102 
I. EDINBURGH, p. 337 

XIV. ROSS, p. 233 

XIII. ELGIN, p. 228 

V. BUTE, p. 95 
XIII. BANFF, p. 199 
XIII. ELGIN, p. 136 

XV. ORKNEY, p. 83 

VIII. DUNBARTON, p. 65 

III. ROXBURGH, p. 127 

VI. LANARK, p. 373 

XI. FORFAR, p. 413 

IV. DUMFRIES, p. 218 

VII. ARGYLE, p. 436 

IX. FIFE, p. 449 
XV. ORKNEY, p. 169 
XIII. ELGIN, p. 29 

XI. KINCARDINE, p. 269 

XII. ABERDEEN, p. 185 

IX. FIFE, p. 497 

X. PERTH, p. 607 
X. PERTH, p. 873 
IX. FIFE, p. 337 

IV. DUMFRIES, p. 203 



PopuU. 
in 1841. 

1259 
7619 
1749 

416 
1582 
1339 
3584 

260 
7007 
1616 
1446 
2043 
3574 

691 
1R69 
2234 

721 

987 

227 
1815 
6728 
1918 
1542 
2811 
1929 
3079 
1692 

788 

402 
1035 
3226 

757 
1501 
3194 
1719 

941 
1807 
3222 
1843 
7147 
1227 

521 
1294 
3717 

979 
6513 

471 
1032 

846 
6017 

926 
1176 
1600 
1391 

554 

327 

1071 

1157 

*6l8 



xxu 

ST NINIANS, 

ST QUI VOX, 

ST VIOEANS, 

SALINE, 

SALT ON, 

SANDSTING AND AITUSTINti, 

SANDWICK, 

SANQUHAR, 

SCONE, 

SCOONIE, 

SELKIRK, 

SHAPIN8HAY, 

SKENE, 

SKIRLING, 

SLAINS, 

SLAHANAN, 

SLEAT, 

SMALHOLBf, 

SMALL ISLES, 

SNIZORT, 

SORBIE, 

SORN, 

SOUTHDEAN, 

SOUTHEND, 

SPETHOUTH, 

SPOT, 

SPROUSTON, 

SPYNIE, 

STAIR, 

STENTON, 

STEVENSTON, 

STEWARTON, 

STIRLING, 

STITCHELL AND HUME, 

STOBO, 

STONEHOUSE, 

STONETKIRK, 

STORNOWAY, 

STOW, 

STRACHAN, 

STRACUUR AND STRALACHLAN, 

STRAITON, 

STRANRAER, 

STRATH, 

STRATHBLANE, 

STRATHDON, 

STRATHMI6LO, 

8TRICHEN, 

STRICKATHROW, 

STROMNESS, 

STRONSAY AND EDAY, 

SWINTON AND SIMPRIM, 

SYMINGTON, 

SYMINGTON, 

TAIN, 

TANNADICE, 

TARBAT, 

TARLAND AND MIGVIK, 

TARVES, 



LIST OF PARISHES. 



vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 303 
vol. V. AYR, p. 118 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 489 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 798 
vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 106 
vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 97 
vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 41 
vol IV. DUMFRIES, p. 297 
vol. X. PERTH, p. 1043 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 264 
vol. III. SELKIRK, p. I 
vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 79 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 1096 
vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 99 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 598 
vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 273 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 317 
vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 141 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 145 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 287 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 22 
vol. V. AYR, p. 126 
vol. Ill ROXBURGH, p. 98 
vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 413 
vol. XIII. ELGIN, p. 51 
vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 224 
vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 235 
vol. XIII. ELGIN, p. 95 
vol. V. AYR, p. 637 
vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 55 
vol. V. AYR, p. 426 
vol. V. AYR, p. 727 
vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 390 
vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 456 
vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 121 
vol. VI. LANARK, p. 468 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 162 
vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 115 
vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 398 
vol. XI. KINCARDINE, p. 231 
vol. VII. ARGYLE, p. 103 
vol. V. AYR, p. 333 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 94 
vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 300 
vol. VIII. STIRLING, p. 7 1 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p- 585 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 775 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 687 
vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 662 
vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 26 
vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 156 
vol. II. BERWICK, p. 186 
vol. V. AYR, p. 565 
vol. VI. LANARK, p. 867 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 280 

vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 198 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 460 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 839 
vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 667 



PopuU. 
in 1841. 

10080 
6055 
8793 
1057 

770 
2478 
1033 
3577 
2422 
2836 
3464 

935 
1846 

345 
121! 

979 
2706 

592 

993 
3220 
1700 
4054 

868 
1594 
1774 

603 
1439 
1164 

823 

686 
3791 
4656 
9095 

847 

465 
2471 
3062 
6218 
1734 

04J. 

1086 
1363 
3440 
3150 

894 
1563 
2187 
2012 

553 
2785 
2279 
1095 

918 

488 
3128 
1654 
1826 

1093 
2397 



LIST OF PARISHES* 



TEALING, 

TEMPLE, 

TEBRBGLBS, 

THURSO, 

TIBBBRMORE, 

TILLICOULTRY, 

TINGWALL, WHITENESS, AND 

WEESDALE, 
TINWALD AND TRAILFLAT, 
TIREE AND COLL, 
TONGLAND, 
TONGUE, 
TORBOLTON, 
TOROSAY, 
TORPHICHBN, 
TORRTDURN, 
TORTHORWALD, 
TOUGH, 
TOWIB, 
TRANENT, 
TRAQUAIR, 
TRINITY CASK, 
TROQUEBR, 
TULLIALLAN, 

TULLYNESSLE AND FORBES, 
TUNDERGARTH, 
TURRIFF, 
TWEEDSMUIR, 
TWYNHOLM, 
TYNRON, 
TYRIB, 

UDNT, 

UI6, 

UIST, NORTH, 

UIST, SOUTH, 

UNST, 

UPHALL, 

URQUHART, 

URQUHART AND 6LBNM0R1ST0N, 

URQUHART AND LOGIE WESTER, 

URR, 

URRAY, 

WALLS, 

WALLS AND FLOTTA, 

WALSTON, 

WAMPHRAY, 

WANDELL AND LAMINGTOUNE, 

WATTEN, 

^tkESi, • « 

WEHYSS, 

WESTC ALDER, 

WESTERKIRK, 

WESTRAY, . 

WESTRUTHER, 

WHITBURN, 

WHITEKIRK AND TYNNIN6HAME, 

WHITHORN, 

WHITSOME AND HILTON, 

WHITTINOHAME, 



vol. XI. FORFAR, p. 378 

vol. I. EDINBURGIi, p. 49 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 230 

VoL XV. CAITHNESS, p. 1 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 1029 

vol. VIII. CLACKMANNAN, p. 66 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 59 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p-. 39 

VoL VII. ARGYLE, p. 195 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 63 

vol. XV. SUTHERLAND, p. 164 

vol. V. AYR, p. 741 

VoL VII. ARGYLE, p. 277 

VoL II. LINLITHGOW, p. 34 

vol. IX. FIFE, p. 727 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 29 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 61 1 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 416 

vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 282 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 36 

vol. X. PERTH, p. 335 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 223 

VoL X. PERTH, p. 867 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 439 

vol IV. DUMFRIES, p. 195 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 981 

vol. III. PEEBLES, p. 56 

vol. IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 37 

vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 478 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p. 717 

vol. XII. ABERDEEN, p 131 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 151 

VoL XIV. INVERNESS, p. 159 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 182 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 36 

vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 85 

vol. XUI. ELGIN, 44 

vol. XIV. INVERNESS, p. 36 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 363 

VoL IV. KIRKCUDBRIGHT, p. 247 

vol. XIV. ROSS, p. 399 

vol. XV. SHETLAND, p. 19 
vol. XV. ORKNEY, p. 70 
vol. VI. LANARK, p. 846 
vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 137 
vol. VI. LANARK, p. 805 
VoL XV. CAITHNESS, p. 49 
VoL X. PERTH, p. 702 
vol. IX. FIFE, p. 390 
vol. I. EDINBURGH, p. 304' 
vol. IV. DUMFRIES, p. 429 
vol. XV. ORKNEV, p. 114 
vol. II. BERWICK, p. 63 
vol. II. LINLITHGOW, p. 76 
vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 29 
vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 52 
vol. II. BERWICK, p. 166 
vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 61 



XXIU 

Popula. 
in 1841. 

854 
1159 

564 
4881 
1651 
3213 

2957 

1085 

5833 

842 

2041 

2612 

1616 

1417 

1435 

1346 

762 

748 

3887 

682 

620 

4351 

3196 

846 

524 

3146 

276 

777 

474 

2639 

1450 

3316 

4428 

733 

2831 

1467 

1082 

3104 

2997 

3090 

2716 

2449 

1558 

493 

509 

354 

1266 

890 

5403 

1666 

638 

2131 

829 

2593 

1170 

2795 

622 

700 



XXIV 



LIST OF PARISHES. 







Popula. 
in 1841. 


WICK, 


vol. XV. CAITHNESS, p. 117 


10393 


WIGTON, 


vol. IV. WIGTON, p. 1 


2562 


WILTON, 


vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 76 


1867 


WISTON AND ROBERTON, . 


vol. VI. LANARK, p. 93 


929 


YARROW, 


vol. III. SELKIRK, p. 29 


1264 


YELL, MID AND SOUTH, 


vol. XY. SHETLAND, p. 82 


1705 


YESTER, 


vol. II. HADDINGTON, p. 153 


1069 


YETHOLH, . 


vol. III. ROXBURGH, p. 159 


1225 



^>T^ 






ijDjjKSifKii'asi SMMsa. 



PARISH OF LIBERTON. 

PRESBYTERY OF EDINBURGH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JAMES BEGG, M. A., MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The real etymology of Libertoo, formerly written Li- 

bertun, is somewhat doubtful, although it is obviously of Saxon ori- 
gin. Most probably, the name is a corruption of Lepertan, and arose 
from the circumstance, that an hospital for the sick of fldinburgh 
was situated at or near it, although all traces of such an institu- 
tion have long since vanished. This supposition derives probabi- 
lity, both from the elevated, dry, and very healthy nature of the 
whole district, quite near to, and overlooking the city of Edin- 
burgh, and from the lands of Liberton being called in certain old 
writings the lands of SpitaUtown — Spital being synonymous with 
hospital in our old language. 

Extent and Boundaries. — The figure of this parish is exceed- 
ingly irregular. It extends from nearly the eastern extremity of 
the Pentland hills to within a few yards of the sea, near Fisher- 
row, and from Edinburgh to within a mile of Dalkeith. It is thus 
nearly 7 miles long, and about 4 miles broad. In the centre, it is 
nearly square, but towards the east it becomes very narrow, and 
runs out to a sharp point for nearly two miles, between the pa- 
rishes of Newton and Inveresk on the one side, and Duddingstone 
on the other, in the form of a wedge.* It is bounded on the north 
and west, by the parish of St Cuthberts ; on the north-east, by 
Duddingstone ; on the east, by Inveresk ; on the south-east, by 
Inveresk, Newton, and Dalkeith ; on the south, by Lasswade ; and 
on the south-west, by Colinton. 

Topographical Appearances— ^Climate^ <J-c. — The surface is very 
undulating, and beautifully diversified with plains and rising grounds, 
ascending occasionally to a considerable elevation, and, from their 

■ 

* This irregular shape arises from the clrcumsUmce, that this is, properly speaking, 
a united parish,— the portion of it beyond Craigmillar Castle having, in former 
times, been connected with the chapel at Niddry. 

EDINBURGH. A 



2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

more elevated positions, commanding a magnificent view of the 
city of Edinburgh, the Pentlaud, Braid, and Blackford hills, Ar- 
thur's Seat, the Frith of Forth, the coasts of Fife and East Lo- 
thian, and, indeed, of the whole surrounding district, which is in 
many respects the most interesting in Scotland. It is the ** Heart 
of Mid- Lothian," and there is not in Britain a more commanding 
view of rich and varied scenery, including wood, water, a fine city, 
and a richly cultivated country, than may be had from Craigmil- 
lar Castle, the high grounds above Mortonhall, the ridge of Gilmer- 
ton, or the neighbourhood of Liberton church. The land of the 
parish, too, being in the highest state of cultivation, and almost all 
thoroughly drained, the climate is very dry and salubrious. The 
people are, in general, healthy, and many live to an old age. Epi- 
demical diseases seldom exist ; although in 1832, cholera was very 
fatal in Gilmerton and some of tlie neighbouring villages, no per- 
son being seized who was engaged in agriculture. The tempera- 
ture of the parish varies in the difierent districts, the lower district 
towards the sea coast being much warmer, and the operations of 
husbandry being, in general, nearly a fortnight earlier at Niddry 
and Brunstane than at Straiton and Morton. The parish is inter- 
sected by two rivulets, by which eight water mills are driven. 

Geology J'^ — The parish of Liberton forms part of the great car- 
boniferous deposit of Mid-Lothian. On the north and north-west 
side, the felspar and clinkstone of Braid and Blackford hills have 
elevated the sandstone deposits to a considerable height. These 
consist of the various layers of the carboniferous sandstones, which 
constitute the greater part of the surface of the valley of Mid- Lo- 
thian. On the northern declivity of the road leading from Liber- 
ton to Edinburgh, a coarse conglomerate makes its appearance, 
being here elevated to the surface, and which is probably one of 
the lowermost beds of the sandstone deposit. 

A line commencing from Burdiehouse, and extending in a 
slightly curved direction to Joppa, forms the northern boundary of 
the coal-field of Mid- Lothian. Along this line there is an exten- 
sive slip and an abrupt elevation of the lowermost members of the 
coal basin. Burdiehouse quarry consists of a bed of limestone 
27 feet thick, with several feet of bituminous shale, superimposed. 
It crops out abruptly to the surface in a westerly direction, and 
dips at an angle of 25^ to the eastward. Two faults interrupt the 
continuity of this limestone bed, and are distinguishable from the 

• The remarks under this head were written by William Rbynd, Esq. 



LIBERTON. 3 

limestone, by their composition, which is of a brecciated cha- 
racter. 

The limestone is disposed in regular beds, and is of a light 
grayish colour below, and dark blue above. The shale, partly in- 
terposed between the limestone, and partly lying above, is of a la- 
minar and highly bituminous nature. This limestone contains in- 
numerable minute shells of the genus Cypris, a species of Unio, and 
several other fresh water MolluscsL It is also full of beautiful and 
most perfect impressions of cryptogamic plants, such as several spe- 
cies of SphenapteriSf Lepidodendrons^ Lepidoatrobus^ &c Entire im- 
pressions of small fishes, and numerous scales and fragments of 
bones, chiefly of the ganoid order of Agassiz, are also abundant, 
together with bones, scales, teeth, and faecal remains of Sauroid 
fishes of very large dimensions. This same limestone, characte- 
rized by its fresh water remains, is also seen cropping out at More- 
dun. '^The Gilmerton limestone appears from its position to lie 
above the Burdiehouse strata, and its organic remains, unlike the 
other, are exclusively marine. This bed is also about 27 feet 
thick. Below, is a hard compact limestone, with numerous remains 
of encrinites; above, are layers of a coarser limestone, called by the 
workmen blaes^ alternating with layers of bituminous shale. In 
these layers Productiy Spiriferi and other shells are abundant. This 
limestone also dips to the east and south-east at an angle of about 
25% and lies below the great coal basin, which commences imme- 
diately to the south. 

Both limestones are very pure, containing about 95 per cent, 
carbonate of lime, and they have been extensively quarried and 
burnt for useful purposes. 

At Niddry quarry, the same tilting up of the strata is visible, 
and here they consist of sandstone, shale, coal, and limestone. The 
same section extends onwards to Joppa, and terminates in the Frith. 

At St Catherine's is a well which contains a quantity of mineral 
oil or petroleum, obtained most probably from the spring flowing 
over some portion of the coal beds. This bituminous matter floats 
copiously on the surface of the water, and is also partially dissolved * 
ip it. The spring is reckoned medicinal by the country people, 
and may have some slight efiicacy in cutaneous eruptions. 

II. — Civil History. 
Account of the Parish* — There is a very elaborate account of 
this parish, written by the Rev. Thomas Whyte, who was ordain- 
ed minister of Liberton in 1752, and published amongst the 



4 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Transactions of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. It will 
be found to contain an elaborate account of all the places and im- 
portant families in the parish. 

Land'Otoners. — The principal land-owners of the parish are, 
Walter Little Gilmour, Esq. of Liberton and Craigmillar; Richard 
Trotter, Esq. of Mortonhall and Charterhall; Andrew Wauchope, 
Esq. of Niddry-Marshal ; Sir David Baird of Newbyth ; David 
Anderson, Esq. of Moredun ; the Marquis of Abercorn ; Sir Wil- 
liam Rae of St Catherine's ; Miss Innes of Drum ; Miss Sivright 
of Meggetland ; James Johnston, Esq. of Straiten ; Sir Robert 
Dick of Prestonfield : Lord Melville ; Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq. of 
Whitehill ; Mrs Gilchrist of Sunnyside ; John Wauchope, Esq. 
of Edmonstone ; John Tod, Esq. of Todhills ; Robert Bruce, Esq. 
of Kennet ; and William TulHs, Esq. of Mount Vernon. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, which have been 
preserved, begin in 1639, and have been pretty regularly kept since. 
Those connected with the business of the kirk-session alone 
amount to twelve volumes. They were lately rescued from the 
dust in which they lay, thoroughly inspected, the torn and decayed 
leaves repaired, and the whole handsomely bound, and deposited, 
with other valuable parochial documents, in a (ire*proof charter- 
chest. 

Cekbrated Characters* — Amongst the celebrated characters con- 
nected with this parish may be mentioned Mr Clement Little of 
Upper Liberton, who founded the College Library of Edinburgh, 
(Arnot's History, p. 414.) John Trotter, Esq. of Mortonhall, 
Merchant in Edinburgh, founder of the present branch of that fa- 
mily, born in 1558, seems to have been a distinguished man in his 
day. He left in charity to the town of Edinburgh 4000 merks ; 
to St Paul's Hospital 2000 merks ; and a considerable sum to Tri- 
nity Hospital. He also built two chambers in the College of Eklin- 
burgh, for two bursars of philosophy, and left 700 merks to the 
town of Lanark. Sir Symon De Preston of Craigmillar was Pro- 
vost of Edinburgh, in 1565, immediately after the Reformation, 
and, in his house in town. Queen Mary lodged on the fatal night 
she left the army at Caerberry hill, (Keith, p. 402, 409-4 10.)— 
Two of the Gilmours of Craigmillar were also distinguished for 
their ability as lawyers about the time of the Restoration of Charles, 
and one of them, Sir John Gilmour, was made Lord President of 
the Court of Session, (Nicolson's Historical Library, p. 369-70.) 
Gilbert Wauchope of Niddry, (a family of at least nearly 500 years 



LIBERTON. 5 

standing in the parish, and perhaps now the oldest family in Mid- 
Lothian,) was a member of the Scottish Parliament in 1560, 
when Popery was abolished and the Protestant religion set up ; and 
we find another member of the same family, Sir John Wauchope 
of Niddry, a zealous Covenanter, (See Guthrie's Memoirs,) and 
a member of the General Assembly in 164di The late proprie- 
tor was also for many years a representative of the Presbytery of 
Edinburgh in the General Assembly. Sir James Stewart of Good- 
trees, who was Lord Advocate of Scotland, from 1692 till 17)3, 
may be mentioned as one of the distinguished persons connected 
with this parish. The lady of Little of Liberton was one of the 
martyrs during the persecution. She was imprisoned in 1685 for 
harbouring conventicklers^ and was only set at liberty in conse- 
quence of her husband agreeing to be confined as her substitute. 
(Fountainhall, i. 863.) — The Rev. Samuel Semple, chosen by the 
heritors and elders, under the Revolution settlement, ordained on 
the 31 St of August 1697, and minister of Liberton for upwards of 
forty-four years, seems to have been a man of some note. From 
the records it appears that he conducted the business of the pa- 
rish with much vigour, and the General Assembly appear to have 
looked to him for a History of the Church of Scotland, which, 
however, he did not live to finish. His monument, lately renewed, 
is placed on the tower of the church. The Rev. Thomas Whyte, 
who wrote the account, to which we have already referred, must 
have been a man of learning and research. And in more distant 
times the Rev. John Davidson, minister of this parish in 1582, a 
man of great zeal and talent, discharged, by appointment, the task 
of excommunicating Montgomery, minister of Stirling, who makes 
such a figure in the annals of our Presbyterian Church, as having 
endeavoured to thrust himself into the office of Archbishop of 
Glasgow, in defiance of the General Assembly. 

CivU Antiquities^ Sfc. — In the neighbourhood of Mortonhall 
there are several tumuli^ which are supposed to have originated 
with the Romans. Right west, also, from Mortonhall, there is a 
hill, called Galachlaw, which beci^me famous as the encampment 
of Oliver Cromwell in 1650, with no less than 16,000 men, before 
the battle of Dunbar, (Hume's Hist Vol. ii. p. 24.) 

At St Catherine's, there is the famous well, before alluded to, 
anciently called the Balm Well Black oily substances constantly 
float on the surface of tbe water. However many you remove they 
still appear as numerous as before. In ancient times a sovereign 



6 EDINBUIIGHSHIUE. 

virtue was supposed to reside in this well, and it was much frequent- 
ed by persons afflicted with cutaneous complaints. The nuns of the 
Sheens made an annual procession to it in honour of St Catherine- 
King James VI. visited it in 1617, and ordered it to be property en- 
closed and provided with a door and staircase, but it was destroy- 
ed and filled up by the soldiers of Cromwell in 1650. It has again 
been opened and repaired, and is now in a good state of preserva- 
tion. 

The whole of the lands of Mortonhall and St Catherine's in an- 
cient times formed part of the princely estate of the Sinclairs of 
Roslin, — the Trotters being originally from Catchelraw, in Ber- 
wickshire, and a very old family there. 

Burdiehouse is supposed to be a corruption of Bourdeanx^ 
hottse^ and to have been so called by some of Queen Mary's French 
attendants in 1561. 

There is at Gilmerton a singular cave, dug out of the solid rock. 
It contains several apartments, and was finished in 1724 by an ec^ 
centric inhabitant of that place, after five years hard labour. The 
person by whom it was made lived with his family, and carried on 
his occupation as a smith, in this place till 1735. It is still visited 
by the curious. 

In the lawn of Drum, the ancient residence of the Somerville 
family, right opposite the front of the house, stands the old mar- 
ket-cross of the city of Edinburgh. It was brought here in 1756. 
It is composed of several stones, 20 feet high, and 18 inches in 
diameter, and ornamented with thistles, the ancient badge of Scot- 
land. 

The Castle of Craigmillar is one of the most striking historical 
objects in this parish. The name is Gaelic, Craig-moil^ard^ and 
signifies a rock, bare and high, running out into a plain. It is im- 
possible to say how old this Castle is. The wall around it was 
built in 1427, as appears firom the inscription on the gate, and the 
modem portion to the west was built in 1661 by Sir John Gil- 
mour, then Lord President of the Court of Session, and was, for 
some time, the mansion-house of the family. The Castle belong- 
ed for 300 years to the Prestons of Gowrton or that ilk, and be- 
came the property of the Gilmours about 1661. John Earl of Marr, 
a younger brother of James III., was confined here in 1477. It 
was for some time the residence of James V. during his minority, 
when he left Edinburgh, because of the plague, (Leslie's History, 
p. 368.) It was taken, and partly burnt and demolished, accord- 



LIBEUTON. < 

ing to Pitscottie, by the English in 1543. But what gives it its 
chief interest as connected with Scottish history, is the fact, that 
Queen Mary chose to reside here as much as possible after her 
return from France in 1561. A room is still shown in the Castle 
as Queen Mary's bedroom, only 7 feet long by 5 broad, but it pro- 
bably was not devoted to that purpose. At the foot of Craigmil- 
lar hill there is a small village, called Little France, which was no 
doubt the place where the French servants of the Queen resided. 
The tradition of the place points to a venerable sycamore tree as 
having been planted by Queen Mary. The ruins of the Castle 
are still strong and well-preserved, and the situation is one of the 
most noble and princely that can be imagined. The grounds have 
lately been much ornamented by clumps of beautiful trees. 

The only other fact connected with the civil history of the pa- 
rish which I shall mention is, that on the Borough Muir, now part- 
ly farmed by Mr Dale, and the property of W. L. Gilmour, Esq. 
James IV. reviewed his troops before he set out for the fatal field 
of Flodden in 1513, (Maitland's Hist, of Edin. p. 178.) 

Ecclesiastical Antiquities — Churches. — In ancient times there 
were three places of worship in this parish ; namely, one at Libera 
ton, one at St Catherine's, and one at Niddry. The remains of 
the chapel and burying-ground at St Catherine's have long since 
disappeared, although " some persons yet alive," says Mr Whyte, 
** remember to have seen the chapel ;" but there are still some 
traces of the chapel at Niddry, and, in particular, there is still a 
burying-ground in which the people of the district continue to bury 
their dead. The chapel at Niddry was founded by Robert Wau- 
chope of Niddry- Marshal in 1387, and dedicated to the Virgin 
Mary. The minister of it, who was connected with the Abbey of 
Holy rood, had, besides other privileges and emoluments, a manse, 
an acre of ground, pasture for two cows, and twelve merks per an- 
num from the lands of Pylmuir, in the parish of Currie, which be- 
longed to the proprietor of Niddry. The old chapel and burying- 
ground were at the west end of the mansion-house, but, in 1685, 
the burying-ground was removed to the south-west side of the gar- 
den, where it still remains. The church of Liberton itself belong* 
ed to the parish of St Cuthbert's previous to 1124, (Arnot's His- 
tory of Edinburgh, p. 5.) The patronage of Liberton, with an 
acre of land contiguous to the church, belonged afterwards to Sir 
John Maxwell, who bestowed them on the Monastery of Kilwin- 
ning in the year 1367, and this was ratified by David II. in 1370, 



8 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

(Appendix to Nisbet's History, p. 161.) How long this state of 
things continued does not appear. But at length they became the 
property of the Abbey of Holyroodhouse, as appears from Keith's 
History of the Scots Bishops, (p. 28.) In 1607, Mr John Both- 
well of Whitekirk, first Lord Holyroodhouse, received a grant 
of the patronage, rectorship, and tithes of Liberton, (Crawford's 
Peerage, p. 185-6.) But his son was forced to resign them when 
a bishoprick was erected at Edinburgh. At the Revolution, the 
heritors and elders of course named the minister, but by the Act 
of Queen Anne the patronage became the property of the Crown, 
— Wauchope of Niddry claiming, and, it is supposed, exercising a 
conjunct right of patronage from his connexion with the ancient 
chapel of Niddry-Marshal. This right has lately, however, been 
disputed by the Crown. 

In connexion with this subject it may be mentioned, that a Pres- 
byterian chapel was erected at Craigmillar during the indulgence 
granted by James VII. which, at the termination of the persecu* 
tion and the restoration of Presbyterian worship, became unneces- 
sary, and is now used as a stable or out-house. There is also at 
Bridge-end a chapel built by James V., near a place which he used 
as a hunting'lodge, but it also is now turned into a stable. 

Church Lands. — The lands which lie west and south-west of 
the church of Liberton were church lands, and termed Vicar's 
Acres. They are so denominated in the entail of Mr Little of 
Liberton. To the east of St Catherine's there is a rising ground 
formerly called Priest Hill, now Grace Mount, which probably 
was connected with the chapel of St Catherine's, and occupied by 
the officiating minister. Near the Craigs is a piece of land, called 
the Kirk'landsj extending to about five acres, which formerly be- 
longed to the church or chapel of Liberton. A part of Craig- 
millar hill belonged to the Abbey of Dunfermline, as appears from 
Haddington's Collections. It was mortified in pure and perpetual 
alms, as appears from a charter of mortification in the reign of 
Alexander II. in 1212. The lands of Inch belonged to the Abbey 
of Holyrood, as appears from a charter in the reign of James IL 
(see Register- Office.) 

There was in ancient times a mill at Nether Liberton, the tithes 
of which were bestowed by King David on the Abbey of Holy- 
roodhouse. The Black Friars of Edinburgh also received six 
merks annually from the proceeds of this mill. 

The Buigh Muir, now in a high state of cultivation, formerly be«> 

4 



LIBEUTON. 9 

longed to the nuDs at the Sheens or Sciens, so called from Ca- 
therine of Sienna, an Italian. This appears from a charter of 
confirmation in 1516. 

There belonged to the vicarage of Liberton a husband iand io 
the manor of Gilmerton. (Inquis. Special. 1607, iv. 93.) 

Ministers of Liberton since the Reformation. — 1. The first mi- 
nister of Liberton after the Reformation was Mr Thomas Cran- 
ston, previously minister of Borthwiek. He entered to his stipend 
here, which only amounted to 200 merks, or L. 11, 2s. 2i9d., at 
Lammas 1569, and was translated to Peebles at Whitsunday 1570. 

2. The second minister was Mr John Davidson, a man of great 
zeal and talent, who laboured here till 1584, * but was afterwards 
minister of Prestonpans, where we find him in 1596. + He was 
greatly admired in both parishes, and eminently useful. Fleming, 
in his Treatise concerning the Fulfilling of the Scriptures, refers 
to him as a distinguished saint. 

9. The next was Mr John Adamson, who was minister of this 
parish in 1616, and a member of the Assembly which met that 
year in^ Aberdeen. He was afterwards translated to Edinburgh, 
and made Principal of the College, in which capacity he sat in the 
Glasgow Assembly 1638. He was reckoned a man of learning. 

4. Mr John Cranston was minister of Liberton in 1625, 1626, 
and 1627. 

5. Mr Andrew Learmonth was minister from 1629 until 1636. 

6. Mr Archibald Newton was translated to Liberton from Dud- 
dingston. May 19, 1639. During his ministry, the Covenant was 
renewed and subscribed by all ranks at Liberton *with great so- 
lemnity4 He died June 2, 1657. 

7« Mr Andrew Cant was admitted minister of Liberton, March 
10, 1659. He was translated to the College Church, Edinburgh, 
July 13, 1673, and in 1683 was Principal of the Edinburgh Uni- 
versity. 

8. Mr Ninian Paterson from Glasgow was ordained minister 
of Liberton, October 14, 1674, during the Restoration of Episco- 
pacy. A violent resistance was made to his settlement, and the 
persons engaged in it were put into the pillory, § both at Edin- 
burgh and Liberton. He was distinguished by his taste for Latin 
poetry, but only continued minister here for five years. 

• Spottiswood's History. f Caldcrwood. $ Records of the Kirk- session, 

g Wodrow. 



^>3^ 






so-MsiiTiiSii asi^a. 



LIDERTON. 11 

Modem Buildings. — The church of Liberton is a very hand- 
some Gothic structure, with a fine tower in a comnaanding situa- 
tion, erected in 1815 from a plan by James Gillespie Graham, 
Esq. Its interior arrangements, however, are not in keeping with 
the elegance of the external building. The gallery projects too 
far, and is besides flat, dark, and too near the roof, which gives 
the church an uncomfortable appearance, and prevents the people 
from seeing and hearing with advantage. A slight alteration 
would vastly improve it both in appearance and comfort. A very 
handsome chapel was erected at Gilmerton in 1837. Besides 
these public buildings, there are many very handsome houses in the 
parish, the residences of the several proprietors. Amongst these 
may be mentioned the Inch House, the oldest date to be found on 
which is 1617 : Mortonhall, an admirable house, finished in 1769, 
and which the present proprietor has still farther improved : 
The House of Drum erected by Lord Sommerville : Moredun, a 
delightful residence, erected by Sir James Stewart : Niddry, a very 
ancient baronial residence, with a large and handsome modern ad- 
dition; and the^house of Brunstane, erected by Lord Lauderdale in 
1639. The houses of Southfield, Sunnyside, St Catherine's, and 
Mount Vernon, are also excellent and beautifully situated. 

III. — Population. 
The population of this parish seems always to have been con- 
siderable. From an old roll of communicants, without a date, 
amongst the session records, it appears that the number of persons 
in full communion with the church was then 700. In 1755 the po- 
pulation was 2793 souls. In i786, when Mr Whyte's Account 
was made, the population amounted to 3457. 

Thepopttlation wasin 1801, . S565 

1811, . 4033 

1821, . 4276 

1831, «)6d 

The number of families in the parish in 1831, .... 922 

chiefly employed in agriculture, . . .145 

in trade, manufactures, or handicrafit, 201 

The number of illegitimate births during the last three years 
has been about 22. 

The population since 1831 has rather diminished. This has arisen 
chiefly from the suspension of the coal-work at Gilmerton, which 
has not only forced many of the colliers to seek work elsewhere, 
but dispersed some of the carters, who formerly employed them* 
selves in driving coals from Gilmerton to Edinburgh. 

Resident Proprietors. — There are very few resident proprietors 
in this parish, which is a great disadvantage in every respect. 



12 EDINBUUGHSHIRE. 

Mrs Gilmour of Craigmillar ; Richard Trotter, Esq. of Mor- 
tonhall; David Anderson, Esq. of Moredun; and Sir William 
Rae, are the only proprietors of any note who do reside, and some 
of these only occasionally. Their residence, however, and the 
efforts made, and contributions given for the temporal and spiritual 
good of the people, are a source of great advantage to the parish. 

Insane Persons. — There are several insane persons. The kirk- 
session lately maintained wholly or in part no fewer than five, one 
of whom had been supported in the same way for thirty years, and 
cost the parish about L.600. 

Peculiar Gaiwc*.— The only peculiar games here are what are 
called " carter's plays." The carters have friendly societies for the 
purpose of supporting each other in old age or during ill-health, 
and with the view partly of securing a day's recreation, and partly 
of recruiting their numbers and funds, they have an annual pro- 
cession. Every man decorates his cart-horse with flowers and rib- 
bons, and a regular procession is made, accompanied by a band of 
music, through this and some of the neighbouring parishes. To 
crown all, there is an uncouth uproarious race with cart-horses on 
the public road, which draws forth a crowd of Edinburgh idlers, 
and all ends in a dinner, for which a fixed sum is paid. Much 
rioting and profligacy often take place in connexion with these amuse- 
ments, and the whole scene is melancholy. There are other so- 
cieties in the parish which hav^ also annual parades with a similar 
result. These societies haye undoubtedly been in some respects 
useful, but the^^* plays" are fortunately rapidly declining; and it is 
to be hoped that savings' banks, in which there is neither risk nor 
temptation to drunkenness, will soon become the universal depo- 
sitories for the surplus earnings of the people. 

General Habits of the People, — Amongst so many people, there 
is of course a great variety of character. The farmers are a highly 
respectable class of men, — men of great skill and capital, some of 
whose ancestors have been here for 200 years, and their servants 
have in general clean comfortable houses, and are very sober and 
industrious. The colliers and carters, on the other hand, are, in 
many instances, improvident and careless, although amongst both 
classes there are many exceptions. Some of the people are ex- 
cessively ignorant ; a few grown up persons can neither read nor 
write. In the villages, generally, there is, I lament to say, a me- 
lancholy want of vital religion, and, in many instances, even of the 
appearance of it. There is also amongst some of the people a sin- 
gular torpor and insensibility to moral and religious obligations. 



LlBEllTON. 13 

This has arisen chiefly from the want of proper schools ; the long 
want of a church in Gilmerton, and of sufficient moral and religious 
instruction for other portions of the floating population of this ex- 
tensive parish ; from the dreadful prevalence of whisky-shops ; and 
the vicinity of Edinburgh, which throws out some of the refuse of 
its population upon us, and, in many ways, tends to lower the tone 
of our society. The prevalence of a practice amongst the higher 
classes in Edinburgh of hiring unmarried country girls to nurse 
their children is, in an obvious way, one of the most fruitful parents 
of vice in this parish. I can scarcely believe that the persons who 
employ these girls are sufiiciently aware of this, although the mi- 
nister and elders cannot shut their eyes to it. We are doing our 
utmost to remedy these evils, and with some success. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculhtre. — This is one of the most important agricultural pa- 
rishes in Scotland, although the number of acres habitually under 
cultivation is only 3998. Besides these there is in grass about 370 
acres, and under wood or in gardens and shrubberies perhaps 350 
acres more, making in all 47 1 8 acres. The cultivated land is divided 
into thirty-four farms, varying in size from 40 to 268 acres, the 
majority, however, being upwards of 100 acres, and six of them be- 
ing upwards of 200 acres. In some instances, two or evei) more 
of these farms are cultivated by the same individual, making the 
quantity of land held to be more than 300 acres. 

Soilj Rotation of Crops, ^c— The soil of the parish is various, 1. 
The greatest proportion of it, in the lower districts, is a rich loam, 
made so by manure and draining, the soil being naturally bad. This 
portion is at present in the highest state of cultivation of which our 
climate will admit, the proof of which will be found in the stknount 
of the rents paid, and the high price its grain bears in the market. 
The rotation of crops which formerly prevailed, was, 1. potatoes or 
turnips, 2. wheat or barley, 3. grass, 4. oats. But, owing to the fail- 
ure of the grass crop, when so often repeated, a rotation of five crops 
was adopted, viz. 1. potatoes, 2. wheat, 3. barley, 4. grass, 5. oats. 
But there are so many variations, that no fixed rule can be given. 
2. The next kind of soil is a thin clay, with a retentive subsoil, which 
prevails in the higher districts of the parish, but which is in a rapid 
course of improvement by means of draining. Mr Jamieson of 
Straiten, and Mr Allan of Broomhills, are at present draining ex- 
tensively. The rotation of crops observed upon this soil is, 1. 
fallow or potatoes, 2. wheats 3. grass, 4. oats. 3. In the imme- 



14 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

diate neighbourhood of the Pentland hills^ od the farm of Morton 
for example, the soil is .generally a dry gravel, the rotation ob- 
served on which is, L turnips or potatoes, 2. barley or wheat, 3. 
grass, 4. oats. 

Bent J Produce^ Manure^ Servants^ Wages^ jfc— The rent of 
land varies from L. 3 to L. 7 an acre. A common rent is 
L. % 2s. with a boll of wheat and a boll of barley an acre. 
Grass lets at about L. 5 an acre, although some of Sir Robert 
Dick's parks, (which are supposed to have been enriched by the 
shrewdness of one of his ancestors, who, being Provost of Edin- 
burgh, turned a large portion of the waste sweepings of the town 
upon his lands,) are let this year as high as L. 10 an acre. The 
valued rent of the parish is L. 13,685, 6s. 8d. Scotch ; the real 
rent in 1828 was L. 27,944, 3s. 2d. This includes rents of farms, 
mines, houses, &&, the particulars of which I have in a statement 
beside me. It also includes the rents of seventy-eight houses under 
L. 2 a-year. Tliis document was carefully drawn up by the late 
schoolmaster after a strict investigation. Potatoes are the prin- 
cipal crop in this parish. They are raised for the Edinburgh 
market. The average number of acres bearing this crop annually 
is 685, producing 2^124 bolls, or 34 bolls an acre. These are 
sometimes sold on the ground at from L. 14 to L. 20 an acre. The 
manure applied varies from 30 to 50 cart-loads at 5s. a cart-load, 
the expense being about L. 12 an acre. The quality of the po- 
tatoes is very superior. The cultivation and produce of other 
crops is at an average as follows : 215 acres are devoted to tur- 
nips, the produce being 5345 tons, or 25 tons an acre ; 19 acres 
to beans, the produce being 152 bolls, or 8 bolls an acre ; 738 
acres to wheat, the produce being 6416 bolls, or 8^ bolls an acre ; 
490 acres to barley, the produce being 2990 bolls, or 6 bolls an 
acre ; 850 acres to oats, the produce being 8063 bolls, or 9^ bolls 
an acre; 1001 acres to grass, the produce being 132,340 stones 
of hay, or 200 stones an acre.* This is sometimes let as green 
crop at from L. 15 to L. 22 an acre. The manure applied to this 
parish at an average is nearly 40,000 tons per annum. All kinds 
of grain are of excellent quality, the weight of wheat being 62 lbs. 
a bushel ; barley 55 lbs. ; oats 42 lbs. These statements are not 
made at random, but are the result of a careful investigation made 

* These arc of course the averages of the whole parish. Instances have been known 
of single fields producing far larger crops. Potatoes have been known to grow at the 
rate of 80 bolls, and sometimes even more an acre, and one farmer assured me Uiat 
from one acre he raised 19 bolLs of oats or 132 bushels. 



LIBERTON. 15 

in regard to every farm in the parish, the answers being received 
from the farmers themselves. Very few cattle are reared or fed here, 
owing to the high price received for turnips, viz. from L. 1 5 to 
L. 20 an acre ; but that immense cattle can be reared, will appear 
from the fact, that Mr Johnston of Niddry had last year a bullock 
of his own rearing, which, at three years old, weighed nearly 130 
stones Dutch. The wages of married ploughmen are L. 16 in 
money, 6^ bolls of meal, 3 bolls of potatoes, I month*s meat in 
harvest, and a free house and garden. A few of a better class re- 
ceive L. 2 more. Young unmarried men receive L. 5 and board* 
Women's wages are from 8d. to 9d. a day. Shearers in harvest 
receive lOd. or Is. 3d. a day, but have sometimes received as high 
as 2s. and food, which consists of admirable porridge and milk, at 
morning and night, the porridge made in a large boiler, into which 
half a boll of meal is often thrown, whilst the mess is stirred with 
an immense staff seized in the centre, and fastened at the top, 
which thus is made to work with a lever power. An Irish shearer 
has been known to eat 9 lbs. weight of these excellent porridge. 
At noon the shearers get bread and beer. 

Improvements required, — Nothing of this nature stands so much 
in need of improvement as the farm-offices. Some of the cottages, 
too, are much in want of being renewed, and constructed with two 
apartments each. They are on some farms worse than the stables. 
A most important effort is being made at present by the High- 
land Society, to secure greater neatness and cleanliness in the cot- 
tages ; and Mr Trotter of Mortonhall is powerfully seconding 
their efforts in this parish, by doubling the premiums offered, and 
adding two of his own. The result undoubtedly has already been 
highly beneficial. A good deal also requires to be done, and 
something is being done at present, in the way of enclosing, 
especially on the Liberton estate, and in the way of planting the 
tops of the hills towards the west, which will greatly add to the 
beauty of the landscape, and break the force of the west wind, 
which is here by far the most violent, — the result of which is that 
the trees on the rising grounds are all bent towards the east 

Horses. — The horses are mostly of a superior kind, and are ge- 
nerally highly fed, which is a proof of the prosperity of agricul- 
ture. The horse which obtained the prize at the exhibition of the 
Highland Society at Glasgow, last year, was reared by Mr Law 
of Morton, one of the farmers of this parish. It is supposed to be 
one of the largest and most handsome horses in the world. Another 



16 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

splendid horse, which also received several premiums, was reared 
at the same time by Mr Jamieson of Straiten. 

Modern Improvements. — One of the most important agricultural 
improvements introduced into this district has been the steam 
thrashing-mill. By its use time and labour are equally saved, and 
one of the farm-servants can soon be trained to act as engineer. 
One has been erected at Niddry, and another at Straiton, with 
engines of six horse-power, made by Douglas of Edinburgh. They 
thrash easily 60 bushels of grain an hour, requiring^ however, the aid 
of nine women, six men, and two carts and horses, in feeding the 
mill, and clearing away the grain and straw. Thus 600 bushels can 
easily be thrashed in a day. There are besides in the parish seven 
water thrashing-mills, and one windmill. The rest of the grain is 
thrashed by horse-power. Flails are unknown. The ref^ise of 
saltpetre has lately been applied to grass as a manure, with great 
success. It is sown upon the grass in February or March, the 
worth of L. 1 being applied to an acre. It acts as a powerful 
stimulant, and sends up a dark green luxuriant bulky crop. Soot 
produce3 nearly the same result. Amongst the most important 
improvements may be reckoned sowing machines, which are of two 
kinds, 1. the drilling-machine, by which oats and other grain can 
be sown with the utmost regularity and precision. The effect be- 
sides is to save seed, and to enable the farmer thoroughly to clear 
out weeds between the drills, by means of the Dutch hoe : 2. The 
broad-cast machine made by Secular of Haddington is an immense 
improvement It sows at once a breadth of 18 feet as fast as a horse 
can walk, or 4 acres an hour, holding as much seed at once as will 
sow an acre, and only requiring one man and one woman to manage 
it, but requiring eight horses to harrow in the seed. It costs L. 10, 
but is so profitable in the way of saving seed, and insuring good sow- 
ing, that, in the opinion of the most skilful farmers here, a farmer of 
any extent had better borrow the money required than be without 
one, as it will amply save the value of itself in one year. It is pe- 
culiarly valuable in sowing grass seeds, a most difficult operation, 
especially when they are mixed with clover seed, which being 
heavy, requires to be continually stirred up amongst the grass seeds, 
and thrown out with a considerable impulse. It is difficult to get a 
servant who will take the trouble ; but the sowing machine secures 
this object most effectually, by stirring the seed continually, and 
sowing it with such power, that in the face of a tempest, (a sad 
enemy to the ordinary sower) its operations are unimpeded. In a 



LIBERTON. 17 

word, there is all the difference here which exists between the power- 
ful and steady action of a steam-vessel, and the feeble and irregu- 
lar motion of a paddle boat Besides, the use of this machine 
forces the farmer to straight his furrows, and square his fields, which 
will be found a mighty advantage in ploughing, harrowing, reaping, 
and every other operation of husbandry. There is an instrument 
in use here, which I have not seen in the west of Scotland, called 
a ffrubbeTj which is drawn by one horse, and is used with effect in 
clearingoutthe weeds between the drills of potatoes and turnips, thus 
making the operation of hoeing much easier, and niore effectual. 
The horse rake also may be mentioned as a modern instrument, 
which is employed in raking over the whole ground, cut with the 
sickle after the grain is carried, and thus clearing off the entire crop. 
Carts here cost L. 12; a pair of harrows L. 3; an iron plough 
(wooden ploughs being discarded,) L. 3; and smiths receive L. 3, 
10s. for every plough kept on a farm, for which they are bound both 
to supply iron and keep the farming implements in order. 

Waste Lands reclaimed. — The upper part of the farm of Li- 
berton Tower Mains, where it joins the Braid hills, containing from 
12 to 20 acres, was formerly covered with furze and brushwood. 
Mr Brockie, the tenant, obtained a lease of it for 5s. an acre, and it 
is now entirely cleared, and converted into good land, bearing all 
kinds of crops. The land, too, in the barony of Broomhills, of which 
Mr Whyte says, that ^^ the expense of draining and putting it into 
order, would far exceed any profits that might thence arise," was 
lately drained, and is in the rapid course of improvement, and 
will, it is believed, amply repay the expense incurred. It amounts 
to about 40 acres. There is scarcely, therefore, a rood of waste 
land in the parish. 

Pigs and Poultry. — Most of the farmers keep poultry, some of 
them a large number. On some of the farms the ordinary stock 
of common fowls is sixty or seventy, besides turkeys, geese, and 
ducks, so that at Niddry Mains, for example, there may sometimes 
be about 200 of these creatures. The geese grow to a large size, 
weighing sometimes not less than 1 stone of 16 oz. Poultry 
are not reckoned profitable in any other sense, than that they 
are supported by grain gathered in the barn-yard, which other- 
wise would Be lost. Pigs are also kept about all the farms. They 
also receive little food except what they pick up in the straw 
yard, and yet they become very large and fat, weighing often 16 
or 17 stones Dutch. They thrive much better in consequence of 

EDINBURGH. B 



18 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

being thus allowed to go at large ; those with short heads and up* 
right ears are reckoned best, and in the market the white are 
reckoned more valuable than the black. 

Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years. 

Gardens^ Sfc. — Gardening is carried on in this parish with great 
skill and success. The soil is peculiarly adapted to the growth 
of vegetables of all kinds. I have seen even in the manse garden 
an early cabbage weighing 16 oz. The earliest strawberries in the 
Edinburgh market are sometimes raised at Stenhouse. In 1692, 
they were ripe as early as the 6th of June. There are admira- 
ble and most productive gardens, with forcing houses, at Mor- 
tonhall, St Catherine's, Inch, Moredun, Drum, Sunnyside, South- 
field, and an excellent garden at Niddry. The Moredun gar- 
dens are still as famous as when Mr Whyte*s account was written, 
and no expense is spared in improving them by the present ex- 
cellent proprietor. Besides moveable glass frames, there is ex- 
posed to the light in the vineries, peach-houses, and pine-pits, at 
Moredun, upwards of 8223 square feet of glass. Hollies thrive ad- 
mirably in this soil, and there are not only many splendid speci- 
mens, but whole hedges of this beautiful plants At Moredun there 
is a holly hedge, very tall, and reaching the whole breadth of the 
garden, and at Niddry a very splendid one, 30 feet high, which, 
when annually cut, are of course scaled by ladders. These hedges 
are like solid evergreen walls. There are several very large trees 
in this parish. A sycamore tree at Niddry measures 19 feet in 
circumference, and another at Mortonhall, said to have been plant- 
ed in 1700, measures 14 feet. At Moredun, Drum, and Inch, 
there are also many fine trees. 

Mines and Quarries. — 1. CocUwork at Gilmerton. — At Gilmer- 
ton there are about 20 seams of coal from 2^ to 10 feet thick. 
The working of the coal, which is of excellent quality, is supposed 
to have commenced at a very early period ; probably 300 years 
ago. It was in vigorous operation in 1627, and in Mr Whyte's 
time, fifty-four colliers were employed. This number was, how- 
ever, greatly augmented afterwards, about eighty families being 
constantly employed, the quantity of coals annually raised being 
from 20,000 to 24,000 tons, and the amount of wages paid being 
L.180 a fortnight to colliers alone. In addition to colliers, a num- 
ber of carters were employed, and employed themselves in driving 
these coals to Edinburgh, making the population of the village of 
Gilmerton to be upwards of 800 souls. The seam of coal lately work. 



LIBERTON. . 19 

ed is 4 feet 4 inches thick, with 8 inches of parrot coal above. Of 
late, however, these operations have been suspended, partly owing 
to the expiry of the lease of the late tenant, but chiefly owing to 
the quantity of coal brought to the Edinburgh market by means 
of the Dalkeith Railway, from mines which can be worked at less 
expense. The mines at Gilmerton may remain dormant for a time, 
till some of the neighbouring collieries are exhausted to the same 
depth, but there is at Gilmerton an immense supply of coal un* 
worked. 

Iron. — Blackband ironstone of the best quality, and 14 inches 
thick, has lately been discovered at Gilmerton, which may imme- 
diately cause a great increase of population. 

Lime-warh at Gilmerton. — The Gilmerton lime-work was per- 
haps the oldest in Scotland, and had also been in operation from 
time immemorial. It was at first worked by tirring, after- 
wards by mining, according to the plan at present in use. Its 
present waste, stretching from Moredun Mains along by Hyvot's 
Mill, to Muirhouse, presents abundant evidence of former opera- 
tions, there being a vast series of pillars with open areas, the rock 
being 9 feet thick, and resting on a declivity of 45.^ The stones 
from the mine or quarry were formerly carried to the bank-head 
by women with creels fastened on their backs, and when the works 
were in full operation, probably fifty women were thus employed. 
At length asses were with more propriety employed in this occu- 
pation ; a change suggested by a man of the name of Pidie, who 
had been at the siege of Gibraltar, and had seen asses employed 
there in carrying up sand to fortify the trenches. The east 
part of the quarry was afterwards worked by means of a steam- 
engine, but this was found unprofitable, and was consequently 
abandoned. The working was, however, renewed, and carriedonwith 
great vigour during the years 1826, 1826, and 1827, when the rock 
was laid dry by the draining and working of the North Green coal, 
which lies regularly above it At this time there were upwards of 
twenty quarrymen employed, and the quantity produced was about 
15,000 bolls of six imperial bushels per annum. Nearly the same 
quantity of small coals was consumed, and the rock was forced out 
by means of blasting with gunpowder; a very difficult operation. 

This limestone extends from the adjoining parish of Lasswade, 
nearly across the entire breadth of this parish. It begins near Loan- 
head on the west, and runs nearly in a north-eastern direction to 
Moredun, passing through Muirhouse, the property of Mr Trotter 



20 EDINBURGHSHIRE 

of Morionhall, entering a corner of the Moredun grounds, turning 
to the west by Hyvot's Mill, entering the grounds of Southfield, 
running through the village of Stenhouse, Moredun Mill, and 
Moredun Mains, where it again takes a turn almost due south, and 
enters the property of Sir David Baird, and continues nearly in 
the same direction till it enters the parish of Newton, near Ed- 
monstone. I understand that in all these places, except at Muir« 
house, it is of excellent quality ; but its working on Sir David Baird's 
property can only be resumed by employing a steam-engine to re- 
move the water, or in consequence of the working of the North 
Green coal. 

Lime-works at Burdiehouae. — The limestone at Burdiehouse, 
which is entirely distinct from that at Gilmerton, was discover- 
ed about eighty or ninety years ago. It was worked by tirring 
till about thirty or forty years ago, when a successful attempt 
was made to work it by means of a mine. A level was at Grst 
made to the burn near Burdiehouse Mains, for the purpose of 
carrying off the water, but afterwards a steam-engine was procured 
for this purpose. The rock is about 30 feet thick, lies at an angle 
of 45,° and is of excellent quality. It runs from Burdiehouse 
Mains to Straiton, and rock precisely the same kind is not found 
in any other part of the parish. Its organic remains have attract- 
ed much attention, and many valuable specimens of them are to 
be seen in the Museum of the Royal. Society, Edinburgh, collect- 
ed with great care by Sir John Kobison. 

The limestone was formerly carried to the surface by means of 
asses, as at Gilmerton, but, in 1822, two gins, with inclined planes, 
were erected for this purpose. From that period till 1827, this 
quarry was worked very extensively, producing in 1825 and 1826, 
' when the mania for building raged in Edinburgh, from 800 to 1000 
bolls of six bushels each per week during the summer, and employ- 
ing from forty to fifty men during the year. - In 1829, the rock 
being worked out to the level at which the steam-engine carried 
off the water, a new discovery of rock was made to the west, a 
quarry opened, and a level run to the old quarry, in consequence 
of which the work is now carried on. The stones are brought to 
the surface by means of a gin and inclined plane, and conveyed 
from thence, to the kilns by a railroad. There are at present em- 
ployed about twenty-five or thirty men during the year. The pro- 
duce is about 300 bolls a- week, or between 15,000 and 16,000 
bolb per annum. The consumpt of small coals is about 12^000 



LIBERTON. 21 

bolls a-year, formerly obtained from Gilmerton ; but since the coal- 
work there was discontinued, from Sir George Clerk's works at 
Loanhead. 

Sandstone Quarries, — There is an excellent and valuable quarry 
at Niddry, but the working of it is at present suspended, except 
for purposes connected with the estate. There is also abundance 
of excellent freestone at Craigmillar, but lately the quarry was 
shut up. It was worked very extensively whilst the building mania 
raged in Edinburgh ; and George's Square, the Regent's Bridge, 
and the greater proportion of the south districts of Edinburgh were 
built from it, as were also the barracks at Jock's Lodge. 

The quarry at Straiten is in operation. The stone is good, and 
the annual produce is stated to be L. 40. A beautiful yellow sand, 
of considerable value, is also excavated at Gilmerton. 

Produce, — The average gross raw produce of the parish, and 
its value, as nearly as these can be ascertained, are as follows : 

Wheat, 64] 6 bolls, at I-. 1, 7s. per bell, 

Barley, 2990 do. at L. 1, Is. do. - - ' 

Oats, 8063 do. at 17s. do. 

Hay, 132 340 stones at lOd. per stone, 

Beans, 152 bolls at L. 1, per boll. 

Potatoes, 23,124 do. at 98. 6d. do. 

Turnips. 5345 tons, at 15b. per ton, 

Grass parks, 370 acres, 

* Coals, 22,500 tons, at lOs. per ton, 

Lime, 15,500 bolls, ... 

Gardens and orchards, 

Annual thinnings of wood. 

Wool, - . - . 

Stones at Straiton quarry. 

Sand at Gilmerton, 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-Toum^ Sfc, — There is no market-town in the parish. 

Edinburgh and Dalkeith are the two market places, the former 

distant rather more than two miles from the church, the latter 

nearly four. 

Villages. — There are about twenty hamlets in the parish, but 
the only village worth naming is Gilmerton, which contained late- 
ly 800 souls, and with the immediate neighbourhood no less than 
1100. 

Means of Communication, — There is here a penny post-office 
connected with the establishment in Edinburgh. We have many 
excellent roads. The London, Dumfries, Musselburgh, and Dal* 

* At present discontinued. 



L.8661 12 





3199 10 





6853 11 





5514 3 


4 


152 





10,981 18 





4008 15 





1680 





11,250 





1937 1 





1200 





- 250 





310 





40 





200 





L.56,181 10 


"4 



22 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

keith roads all intersect the parish, besides the Yailway to Dalkeith, 
which passes through a corner of it. The parish roads are, be- 
sides, most admirably kept. The length of the turnpike roads 
is fully twelve miles, and besides the Dumfries and London mails, 
coaches to Lasswade, Dalkeith, Jedburgh, Carlisle, and Peebles 
pass through the parish daily, and some of them more frequently. 
Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is, per- 
haps, upon the whole, as good as any that could be found, although 
for some parts of the parish it is very inconvenient. Its distance 
from the northern and western extremities of the parish is only about 
a mile, whilst from the eastern extremity it is nearly five miles, and 
from the southern extremity three miles. The remedy for this, how- 
ever, is obviously to strike off these districts from the parish altoge- 
ther, as it is by far too extensive, and this has now been done with 
Gilmerton, and is in progress, as it seems to have been contemplated 
in regard to the eastern district as far back nearly as 200 years ago, 
as will appear from the following extract from the records of the 
Synod, 1650 : " The whole meeting" of a joint committee of the 
Synod and Presbytery of Dalkeith, " unanimously voiced that Brun- 
stane, and the lands and milns thereto belonging, should be recom* 
mended to be annexed to the kirk to be erected at Fisherrow." 
The parish church of Liberton was erected in 1815, and has not 
been altered since* It is a very handsome building, with a beau- 
tiful tower, and forms a fine object in the landscape. A vast im- 
provement might be made by forming a new approach to (t from 
the Dumfries road on the west, and ornamenting it with trees. It 
is melancholy to see so little taste displayed by our Scottish heri- 
tors, generally, in regard to the exterior and even interior of our 
places of worship. The churches in England are generally mo- 
dels in this respect The church here contains 1430 sittings, and 
is therefore much larger than any church should be. Seat-letting 
prevailed to some extent for 100 years, but was lately disconti- 
nued as an illegal practice, and now the sittings are entirely fi-ee. 
It appears from the records, that the control of the seats of the 
church anciently belonged to the kirk-session. The manse was 
built in 1821, and is a substantial and comfortable building. The 
glebe contains only about four acres of land in two detached por- 
tions, besides the garden and site of the manse. Its value is about 
L. 20 a-year. The stipend amounts to 20 chalders of grain, with 
L. 10 for communion elements, and L. 10, called Prebend's fees, 
from the tithes of Sir David Baird. llie value of the whole sti- 



LIBERTON. 23 

pend, on an average of seven years, ending in 18d5| was, L. ^26, 

14b. 7d. ; but it was only augmented to its present amount in 1 830. 

.New Churches. — There is a new church in the parish, erected 

in connexion with the General Assembly's Church Extension 
Scheme, for which the people are in a great measure indebted to 
the zeal of Mr Anderson of Moredun. Several of the other he- 
ritors have contributed handsomely towards its erection and 
support It is erected in Gilmerton, and was opened on the 
20th April 1837. It is seated for 300 people* It cost, includ- 
ing the expense of the gate and walls, L. 600, raised, partly by 
subscription, and partly by a grant from the Assembly's Commitr 
tee. It is quite free from debt. The ground on which it is erect- 
ed, and which extends to 1 rood, 20 poles, and 20 yards imperial 
measure^ is feued by the Liberton kirk-session from Sir David Baird 
for L. 2 a-year. A constitution for this church was granted by the 
Assembly in 1838^ and the first minister, the Rev. Walter Fair- 
lie from Whitehaven, was inducted on the 16th of August of the 
same year. The new parish contains a population of nearly 1100 
persons, the greatest distance of any of the people from church be- 
ing scarcely more than one, mile. It is bounded by Lasswade, Dal- 
keith, Newton, and Liberton. The minister of the new church ■ 
receives L. 80 a-year, raised by a subscription of L. 6 a-year each, 
from a number of gentlemen, chiefly connected with Liberton, and 
by annual collections here and at Gilmerton. But we are ear- 
nestly expecting a more secure and competent endowment from 
Government The seats are all free, and the collections, amount- 
ing to from L. 32 to L. 35 annually, after defraying the necessary 
expenses, ar^ given to the poor. At the first dispensation of the 
Lord's Supper in the new church the number of communicants 
was 130, but this number is slightly diminished, owing to the break- 
ing up of the colliery. A subscription has been commenced for 
the building of a manse to the minister of Gilmerton, which amounts 
already to L.180. Great and obvious good has already resulted 
from the erection of this church. 

Missionaries. — There was a catechist employed in this parish 
last year under the management of the kirk-session, and supported 
by a subscription, which amounted to about L.34. His place has 
not been supplied. A missionary is at present employed in the 

' eastern district of the parish, and in parts of the parishes of Inver- 
esk, Duddingston, and Portobello, where it would be most desirable 
to have a new church erected. The missionary is a licentiate of 



24 EDINBURGHSHtRE. 

the Established Church, and is supported very ioadequately by 
subscription. There is also a preaching station at Niddry, con- 
ducted by this missionary and the parish minister, attended by 
nearly 100 persons. 

Dissenters. — There is no dissenting place of worship in the pa- 
rish, and the great mass of the people profess to belong to the- 
Established Church. In 1836, 2873 persons professed to belong to 
the Established Church, and 689 to be Dissenters of all denomi- 
nations. But the number of Dissenters has diminished since then, 
and, although some of them are most excellent persons, a few who 
call themselves Dissenters are in fact heathens, as is also the case 
with some who say they belong to the Established Church ; nor 
will it be otherwise until the parish is considerably subdivided. 
There are no Papists in the parish. 

Attendance at the Parish Church. — Divine service at the pa- 
rish church is well attended, especially in summer and when the 
weather is good, and the number of worshippers is increasing. 
A good many of the people, however, have long been destitute of 
regular habits of church-going. Mr Whyte states, that at his 
time *^ a great many were lukewarm and indifferent, or rather 
seemed to have no religion." Still it is a melancholy fact that, in 
this respect, we are not worse than others, for if the population be 
considered and the number of seats (about 1800 between Liberton 
and Gilmerton), it will be found that the average of attendance on 
public worship here is above that of a good many of the parishes 
of Scotland. It is only meant, that it is still very far short of what 
it should be. The average number of communicants is about 600, 
of whom about 100 were admitted in 1835, and 80 in 1836. There 
are besides 130 at Gilmerton. 

Contributions for Religious Purposes. — The average amount of 
extraordinary collections in 1835 was L.70, 9s. 6d. Since then, 
however, it has been greater, nearly L. 100 a-year being raised for 
the support of Gilmerton church ; L. 17 for our Sabbath schools; 
upwards of L.20, for our new day schools; a small sum for a Bible 
Society; and, in 1838, L.34 for a catechist, and about L. 10 for 
the missionary at Easter Duddingston. 

Education. — There are ten schools of all kinds in the parish. 
Only one of these is a parochial school. The maximum salary is 
attached to this school, and the teacher has the legal accommo- 
dations. It is attended by nearly 80 children. The usual branches 
of instruction are well taught. Four of the other schools are en- 



LIBERTON. 25 

dowed to a small extent The teacher at Gilmerton has .a free 
house, school-house, and garden, with L. 15 a-year contributed by 
Sir David Baird, Miss Innes, and David Anderson, Esq. The 
school-house is not in good repair. The teacher at Niddry has a 
free house, garden, and school-house, with L. 10 a-year from the 
family at Niddry. The school-house was rebuilt in 1837 by 
means of a sum of money left under the charge of the parish 
minister, and it is also used as a preaching station. The school 
at Cameron, with the houses attached to it, belongs to the kirk- 
session. It was purchased in 1838 for L.200, although it cost 
only the year before more than twice that sum ; but, when bought, 
it was part of a bankrupt estate. The teacher there, besides a 
free house and garden, receives L.15 a-year from the Assembly's 
Committee ; but the district in which he labours is very poor, and 
the people careless about the education of their children. His 
fees are therefore very small. The school at Burdiehouse was 
commenced in 1837. It is attended by nearly 80 children in 
winter, and the teacher is endowed by Mrs Trotter of Mortonhall, 
who has also very generously established a school for girls, which 
is succeeding admirably. A free school was in former times sup- 
ported by the Craigmillar iamily at Nether Liberton, when the po- 
pulation of that village was greater. The other schools are at 
Niddry, Liberton Dams, Echobank, Cameron, and Gilmerton, 
and are chiefly for girls and smaller children. About 450 children 
only attend all the schools in the parish, and perhaps 80 more are 
at schools in the neighbouring parishes. The school fees are from 
Is. to Is. 6d. a-month. The teachers are nearly all members of 
the Established Church. 

llie people in general may be said to be alive to the advantages 
of education, although to this rule there are a great many excep- 
tions. Many efforts have been made lately by addresses from the 
pulpit, and otherwise, to stir them up to send their children to 
school, and with some success. A good many have, lately, been 
sent to school by the kirk-session and by benevolent individuals, 
but in three districts of the parish around our district schools I 
counted lately 70 children, between five and fourteen years of age, 
who are attending no school, and in the other districts the same 
evil prevails. 

Schooh required, — It would be a most important thing, were 
a proper female school established and endowed, as part of the 
regular parochial machinery of every parish, and were the number 
of schools always to bear a proportion to the population. One 



26 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

parish school can never instruct one-sixth of the children in a pa- 
rish like this. There should be a well endowed school for every 
500 of the population. For this purpose, all our district schools 
should be raised to the rank of parish schools and suitably endow- 
ed. The status and character of all teachers, even those at pre- 
sent called parochial, should as much as possible be raised, by a 
liberal provision for their maintenance (which at present is often 
not so great as that of a collier or mason), and the fees should be 
as much as possible lowered. A most marked improvement has 
already followed even the imperfect efforts made in this parish for 
the improvement of education. 

Zftfero^re.— -There have been for several years libraries in Li- 
berton and Gilmerton. The one in Gilmerton was chiefly esta* 
blished by the late Rev. Mr Grant and Dr Stevenson, and is now 
valuable, containing a great many excellent books. The Liberton 
library is also good, and is managed by a committee of the sub- 
scribers. A new library was lately established at Liberton Church 
in connexion with the Sabbath School, which meets in the church 
before public worship. It contains already 150 volumes, which are 
eagerly read by the children, who amount to about 100, under eight 
or nine teachers. A similar library has been established in con- 
nexion with the Sabbath school at Gilmerton. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The averaged number of persons 
receiving aid from the kirk-session was, in 1835, 129 ; in 1836, 120; 
in 1837, 110; so that the number is gradually diminishing. The 
sum given to each varies from L. 7, 16s. to L. 1, 6s. per annum. 
The sum expended on ordinary paupers was, in 1837, L.309, 9s. 
Id.; in 1836, L.348, Is.; in 1835, L.39], 18s. lOd. Besides 
thb, other sums were expended, amongst which from L. 3 to L. 5 
were given each year in the form of occasional relief to per- 
sons not upon the poor's roll; L. 7, 18s. Id. was applied to the 
education of seventeen poor children; and in 1836, L. 29, 4s.; 
in 1837, L. 36, 19s. 4d. raised by voluntary contribution, was 
devoted to the purchase of coals for the poor during the unusual 
severity of winter. The poor of this parish are partly supported 
by voluntary contributions, partly by assessments. The first as- 
sessment was made in 1779. Before that the average collections 
at the church doors was L. 42, 10s. 9^d. At present the average 
is greater, being L. 55, Os. 8d. The amount of assessment was in 
1835, L. 399, 3s. 4id. ; in 1836, L. 497, 5s. 9id. ; in 1837, 
L. 350, Os. lid. For the same years the collections were, 1835, 



LIBERTON. 27 

L. 63, 9s. Id.; 1886, L. 61, lis. ll^d. ; 1837, L. 50, Os. llfd. ; 
of which two last sums, if the extraordinary collections above- 
mentioned be added, the amount of collection will be, for 1836, 
L.90, 15, 1 1 Jd. ; and for 1837, L.87, Os. 3Jd. The mortcloth and 
other dues were, in 1835, L. 37, 6s. 6d. ; 1836, L. 35, 14s. 5d. ; 
1637, L.25, lis. To this may be added the collections at the 
new church of Gilmerton, amounting to from L. 32 to L. 35 a-year, 
part of which are given to the poor. There is also distributed the 
interest of L. 1000, left by Captain Home in the hands of the 
Magistrates of Edinburgh, for the benefit of decayed labourers in 
this parish, and the rents of other property belonging to the kirk- 
session^ 

The assessment has the effect of drying up the sources of cha- 
rity, and emboldening paupers to cast themselves and their chil- 
dren on the poor's funds. The old Scottish plan of voluntary con- 
tributions was certainly the best for supporting the poor. But it is 
only practicable in small parishes, with an efficient minister and 
staff of elders. Nothing can remove the evil of assessments now, 
(which would be ten times greater, but for the efforts of the kirk- 
session,) but the subdivision of parishes, the diffusion of sound in- 
struction and Christian principle amongst the people, and the re- 
moval of whisky-shops. Crime, drunkenness, and poverty, are al- 
ways found together, and expending money upon the poor, except 
for the purpose of making them better, will as soon cure the evil 
as pouring oil upon a flame will quench it. It would be well if the 
attention of the proprietors of Scotland were called to this mighty 
evil in our overgrown parishes, for unless something is done to 
break them up, and to apply a moral remedy, which is the only 
effectual one, and by far the cheapest, the clergy and kirk-sessions 
must, as in large towns, throw away the reins which at present 
they hold with difficulty. There is no part of our duty in large 
parishes so laborious and thankless as the management of the poor. 
Ale-houses. — There are 32 shops for the sale of spirits in 
this parish, which is just thirty too many, and the effect is as 
pernicious as possible. It is just so many persons scattered over 
the parish with their families and relations, whose living depends 
on the success with which they can prevail upon their neighbours 
to drink. One man is paid for teaching sobriety, but thirty-two 
have an interest in defeating his efforts, and human nature is on 
their side. At the same time some of these publicans are vefy re- 
spectable people, and the blame chiefly rests with those who let 



28 EDINBURGHSHIRB. 

and license so many houses of that description. No ale-houses 
are allowed to exist by the proprietors or tenants on the estates of 
Niddry, Mortonhall, Moredun, or Brunstane. 

Miscellaneous Observatiou^s, 
A vast improvement has taken place in the physical state of 

this parish since the last Statistical Account was written. Then 
the real rental was L. 10,000 a-year; lately it was nearly L. 28,000, 
or almost three times as much. It is in fact one of the richest 
parishes in Scotland. But other improvements have not kept 
pace. Little has been done towards improving the cottages in 
which the great mass of the people reside, for of the whole inha- 
bitants, amounting to nearly 4000, only '207 are above the poor 
and working classes, and even amongst this number are included 
teachers, farmers, and sometimes publicans and shop-keepers. 
Some of the houses of the others are very wretched, although 
something is likely to be done now for the purpose of improving 
them. The means of religious instruction also were till lately pre- 
cisely in the same state, notwithstanding the immense increase of 
wealth and population ; and, as might have been expected, vice 
has increased; and^ whereas formerly there was no assessment, now 
there is one of L. 400 a-year, which till lately was rapidly increas- 
ing. The assessment for the first half year after the induction of 
the present minister lyas L. 300 ; for last half year it was only 
L.150, and for the whole year L.350. We have no precise means 
of ascertaining, but the number of public>-houses has probably in- 
creased fourfold or perhaps tenfold since the last Account was writ- 
ten, thus still further increasing the evil, and filling the land with 
crime. Some important changes have, however, lately been made. 
The church, manse, and school- house have all been renewed since 
the last Account was written ; a new church has been erected in 
Gilmerton; new and improved schools set up at Cameron and 
Burdiehouse; a good many Sabbath schools opened; two new 
religious libraries established ; additional elders ordained ; a 
preaching station begun at Niddry ; and a missionary established 
in the eastern district of the parish. 

Written March 1 ,^^ 
Revised August ) ' 



PARISH OF PENICUIK. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN ANDTWEEDDALE, 

THE REV. W. SCOTT MONCRIEFF, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name.* — This parish seems, of old, to have been dedicated to 

St M ungo, whose memory still lingers about a copious spring, hard 
by the church ; and the same thing is attested by some old inscrip- 
tions upon its monuments. How, or when, the worthy saint became 
connected with the parish, does notappear. The name which it bears 
at present has long, however, distinguished it, and is probably as 
ancient as the other, as it betrays a Gaelic or rather British origin ; 
— ^probably the latter appellation belonged to the barony, and the 
former to the church. The present parish includes two other, which 
were annexed to it in the year 1635, viz. that of Mount Lothian to 
the east, and St Catherine's to the north-west. The vestiges, for 
they can scarcely be called ruins, of both the ancient churches, 
may still be traced, — at leastmight have been so, till a few yearssince, 
when the remains of the latter were submerged in the waters of 
the Edinburgh Water Company's reservoir. Mount Lothian, 
(Mons Laodiniae) frequently, but as appears from the Latin, er- 
roneously written Monk's Lothian, was a chapelry belonging to 
the Abbey of Holyrood, whose monks kept their flocks on its rich 
and extensive pasturage ; hence the corrupt name frequently given 
to it, of Monk's Lothian. A very curious account of the church of 

* In the fonncr Statistical Account, the name is said to signify in Gaelic, the 
Cuckoo's hill, ( Beann-na-cuaig. J It is more probably, however, derived froro the 
British Penycog or Penycoc, which has the same meaning. In Cornwall there is « 
village which bears a similar name ; there it is spelt Penkuke. Several places in the 
neighbourbood are named from the Cuckoo, for example, Cukeu. Gowkley ; and 
Cockpen, the name borne by a neighbouring parish, is plainly of similar origin. For- 
merly the parish and barony were co-extensive. In the ancient taxatio, the church is 
rated at twenty marks. From the twelfth century to the Reformation, it continued 
an independent parsonage, the advowson of which seems to have belonged to the 
Lord of the Manor. In Bagimont^s roll, as it was under James V., the rectory of 
Fenlcok was taxed at L. 8. In the Sooto- Saxon period, the manor was held by a fa- 
mily, who assumed their surname from it, and were patrons of the church. In 1296, 
Hugh de Penicok swore fealty to Edward I. This family retained the barony till 
the seventeenth century, wheu it passed by purchase into that of the Clerks, in whom 
it is entailed. 



30 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

St Katherine will be found in the Notes to the Lay of the Last 
Minstrel. From these annexations, the parish has become very 
spacious, though not compact, stretching to a length of nearly 
12 miles, with an average breadth of 4. The pictures(jue range 
of the Pentlands, and the river £sk, with its tributary streams, form 
the most striking local features. The hills run from north-east to 
south-west, at an elevation of nearly 1700 feet above the sea. The 
river rises amongst them, and, flowing in a south-easterly direction, 
leaves the parish a little below the village of Penicuik after a course 
of about seven miles. The romantic valley of Logan Water, which 
divides the Pentland range, celebrated for its pastoral beauty, and 
supposed connection with the Gentle Shepherd, forms also a strik- 
ing feature in the scenery of the parish. 

Climate^ — In its natural history the parish presents but few phe- 
nomena deserving particular attention. The most prevailing winds 
are the west and south. The east is not felt here so keenly as in 
the neighbourhood of Edinburgh ; but the west, from blowing across 
the extensive moors between this and Linton, has but little of the 
blandness for which in general it is celebrated. It is both cold 
and damp. The progress of drainage and planting is annually, how- 
ever, lessening this evil. Still at present, the climate, though much 
ameliorated by the astonishing progress of agricultural improve- 
ment of late, cannot be described as !good. The great extent of 
wet moorland, together with the height of the country, averaging 
about 800 feet above the sea, necessarily produces cold and mois- 
ture. The former cause cannot be remedied, but the latter might ; 
and from the happy effects of draining and planting at Whim, in 
the neighbourhood, good encouragement is held out to prosecute 
its removal. Drainage of moss would, however, appear to be at 
first accompanied by prejudicial effects to the health, as its decom- 
position is stated by Sir H. Davy to prove very unhealthy. 

Hydrography, — The springs are both numerous and remark- 
ably fine, — a circumstance which has proved of great importance 
to the parish, as it probably was the first inducement to establish 
those extensive paper manufactories for which the neighbourhood 
has long been celebrated, and which are at present carried on to 
a great extent Chalybeate, mineral, and petrifying springs are 
also to be met with. It was, at one time, in contemplation to sup- 
ply Edinbui^h with water from the Silver-burn, — one of the many 
beautiful streams which here descend from the Pentlands; but one 
in the neighbouring parish of Glencorse was ultimately preferred. 

4 



PENICUIK. 31 

There is only one natural loch of small extent ; but the artificial 
ponds on the Penicuik demesne are deserving of notice, not merely 
from their picturesque beauty, but from their having been the first 
scenes where the extraordinary naval genius of John Glerk of 
Eldin diplayed itself. To boating on these ponds in boyhood, 
that celebrated character used to ascribe his predeliction for nau- 
tical investigations, which ultimately led to the publication of his 
Naval Tactics. The Esk, though here but an inconsiderable 
stream, is yet both highly ornamental and useful, as it forms the 
great charm of the beautiful domains of Penicuik and Newhall, 
and is the parent of the many mills which have so contributed to 
enrich the parish. Its powers have of late been much lessened, 
however, as a mechanical force, from the progress of drainage in 
the upper jdistricts, which has tended to render its floods more de- 
structive, and its average stream much weaker. To remedy this 
increasing evil, the mill proprietors have in contemplation the for- 
mation of large reservoirs, to receive and store up the flood waters, 
with the double view of thus diminishing the force of its spates, 
and increasing its stream in drought. A similar plan has long 
been in agitation for the Water of Leith, a reservoir for which has 
been planned at Bavelaw, on the north-west of the parish. A 
considerable part of one already successfully formed on the Logan 
Water is also within this parish. A little way above this last 
mentioned sheet of water, the stream which supplies it forms the 
classical Linn of Habbie's How, which would repay the admirer 
of natural scenery for a somewhat long ramble amongst the hills, 
by its lonesome and romantic character. Innumerable pic-nic 
parties accordingly repair thither from Edinburgh during the sum- 
mer months. 

Geology and Mineralogy, — The rocks in this parish belong to 
the transition, secondary, and alluvial classes; sandstone, lime- 
stone, and schistus, being everywhere to be met with. Coal, is 
also abundant, but as yet it has never been wrought to any extent, 
or with a profitable return.* This has arisen from the frequent oc- 
currence of dikes. Limestone is quarried to a very considerable 
extent on the eastern limits of the parish, and has proved of the 
greatest benefit in reclaiming moorland. The rock formation on 
the plains, as indicated by its cropping up on the banks of the 
Esk| and its tributaries, is of sandstone and schistus, of various 

* A pit was re-opened in 1898 on the Penicuik property. The coal is excellent, 
and the prospects of a profitable return are good. 



32 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

kinds, running out into the alluvial formations of clay and gravel, 
with deep intervening seams of quicksand. The different strata 
have, at various times, presented fossil organic remains, parti- 
cularly those of shell-fish. In the Supplement to the Encyclo- 
paedia Britannica, an account is given of a fine fossil tree, which 
was found here in these formations. The Scots Magazine for 
1818 also contains a drawing of it. There are also specimens of an 
unknown fossil tree at Newhall. Iron is the only metallic ore 
that has been met with. It occurs in beds and veins of schistus, 
as also in round fragments. A few garnets, and specimens of 
heavy spar, may also occasionally be found ; but the parish con- 
tains little metallic wealth. The Pentlands are valuable only as 
excellent sheep walks. The solid rock of these hills is chiefly 
porphyry, with smaller masses of whinstone. Fragments of pri- 
mitive rock, as of chlorite rock, granite, syenite, &c occur 
among the hills. Gravel, however, predominates in most of the 
valleys and lower ridges of the range, presenting a fine soil for 
turnips. Still lower down, clay becomes the prevailing forma- 
tion, varied by tracts of deep moss, which, though superficially 
quite sterile, yet generally present at the depth of twelve feet a 
tine rich soil. In some places, this superincumbent mass of moss 
has been cut, and carried for fiiel, and then the subsoil has been 
successfully cultivated. Very extensive beds of sand and gravel 
occur about the village of Penicuik, covering formations of sand- 
stone and schistus. On the banks of the Esk these beds are from 
4 to 15 feet deep, but they are found at other places much to ex- 
ceed that depth. The deposits on either bank of the river are 
perfectly similar. The soils have of course an inherent intimacy 
with these subsoils, being light, where these are gravelly, and clay- 
ey, where these are tenacious and adhesive ; the latter .seem to 
predominate. 

Botany, — Great attention has been paid by the present proprie- 
tor of the estate of Penicuik, as by his predecessors, to planting 
the property, which has been executed on an extensive scale with 
combined judgment and taste. The plantations, which cover a 
considerable portion of the barony, serve at once to shelter the 
otherwise much exposed face of the country, and to heighten its 
natural beauties, to a degree that one would little expect in a dis- 
trict so high in its climate and barren iu its Soil. 

Scotch firs, spruces, larches are planted promiscuously with oak 
and other hard woods. ' Great attention is paid to thinning, and 



PENICUIK. 33 

constant extensions are going on. The whole planting is done on 
the Scotch or pitting system. Though shelter and picturesque 
effect form probably the chief inducements to extend these plant- 
ingSy yet the wood also yields a profitable return, — single trees 
having brought as high a price as L. 30. A saw-mill has lately 
been erected, and is in nearly constant use. There are upwards 
of 1000 acres under wood in the parish, of which 800 or so are on 
the barony of Penicuik. The present appearance and rental of 
this last-mentioned estate strikingly shows what great effect judi- 
cious perseverance in improving land will produce. It is not much 
more than five and thirty years since there were scarcely any en- 
closures on that property, save some few in the vicinity of Penicuik 
House, and now, nearly through its whole extent, it presents the as- 
pect of an enclosed and well sheltered country. Its natural and but 
recent wildness is every where relieved by stripes of planting, dikes, 
or hedge-rows. In that period, the rents have trebled, without be- 
ing at all oppressive. The waste has been converted into a fo- 
rest, and the wilderness into a fruitful field. 

II. — Civil History. 

There is but very little deserving of notice under this head. A 
short account of the principal events which had occurred within 
the memory of the inhabitants was published by one of their num- 
ber, some years ago ; but it contiiins nothing of general interest. 
" The simple annals of the poor," however amusing to the lover 
of nature, are unsuitable to this work. The agricultural im- 
provements of the district have been ably detailed in an essay, 
which obtained the Highland Society's silver medal for the year 
1829. It was written by Mr James Jackson of Plain tree Shade, 
by Penicuik, and has been published by him in a volume of great 
merit, along with five other prize essays. To Mr Jackson's in- 
telligence on all points of agricultural interest, the public are in- 
debted for nearly all the information on these matters in this account 
of the parish. The essays referred to may be confidently recom- 
mended to the perusal of the farmer, not merely for the informa- 
tion to be derived firom them, but also from the example which 
they furnish of what, even in disadvantageous circumstances, dili- 
gence and good sense may accomplish. 

The uniform quietof a country parish was, in the case of Penicuik, 
interrupted aboutthe year 1 810, by its extensive paper manufactories 
being turned by Government into depots for prisoners of war, and the 
peaceful cottages attached to them into barracks for the military ne- 

EDINBURGH. C 



34 EDINBUUGUSIilUE. 

cessarily required. The paper-mills of Valleyfield were on that 
occasion fitted up for the reception of 6000 prisoneYs, whilst those of 
Eskmills, then used as a cotton manufactory, accommodated 1500 
British soldiers. This occurrence could not fail to produce re- 
sults very unfavourable to the social and religious well-being of the 
parishioners. The peaceful artisan gave place to the soldier ; and 
the din of a camp, with its attendant irregularities, prevailed where 
formerly nothing had interrupted the orderly occupations and Sab- 
bath solemnities of a Scottish village. This circumstance gave, 
however, unusual life and activity to the place, and enriched some 
of its inhabitants ; but it may be doubted, if it proved in any way 
advantageous to their moral habits and religious feelings ; nor per- 
haps, have the unfavourable effects then produced on these latter, 
even now quite disappeared. . On the close of the war, however, 
in the year 1814, the mills happily returned to their former pro- 
prietors and purposes, — an event which was hailed by the inha- 
bitants with a general illumination, and other demonstrations of 
their heartfelt joy. The only memorial which now remains of the 
residence of so many warlike strangers, is a very chaste and appro- 
priate monument erected by the proprietor of Valleyfield mill, 
over the remains of upwards of 300 prisoners of war, who were in* 
terred in a beautiful spot amidst his grounds. The design was 
furnished by Hamilton, and bears, after recording the purpose for 
which it was erected, the following line from the elegant but little 
known Sanazarius suggested by Sir Walter Scott : *^ Grata 
quies patriae, sed, et omnis terra sepulchrum." Underneath is this 
simple addition, '^ Certain inhabitants of this parish, desiring to 
remember that all men are brethren, caused this monument to be 
erected." It is understood, however, to have been raised at the 
sole expense of A. Cowan, Esq. 

Eminent Men. — The parish cannot boast of many names cele- 
brated in the world either of letters or of arms. Individuals have 
not been awanting, however, of that plain, but practically most use* 
ful stamp, who accomplish in a quiet way for their neighbourhood 
most beneficial and happy results, and whose memorial may, there- 
fore, be preserved in parochial history. Of this description was 
Sir James Clerk of Penicuik, whose combined judgment and taste 
accomplished effects which, for the times in which he lived, may 
be considered astonishing. The house and grounds of Penicuik 
are striking monuments of his enterprize and taste, and of the eco- 
nomical jujdgment with which he managed his resources. In his 



PENICUIK. 35 

days, the rental of the estate must have been but trifling, and yet 
the princely mansion which he erected was not left as a burden on 
his heirs* The parish church and Ramsay's Monument also re« 
main to attest the taste and liberality which distinguished him. 
His brother, John Clerk of Eldin, has been more celebrated, 
and is better known as the author of Na?al Tactics. As such his 
character belongs to his country ; nor is this the place to discuss 
the merits of a work which has occasioned no little controversy. It 
is but justice to the present proprietor of Penicuik to state, that he 
is distinguished by the same judgment and enlightened liberal po- 
licy as a landlord, which characterized his predecessors, so that the 
improvements which were commenced by Sir James Clerk have 
been efficiently sustained and prosecuted up to the present time 
by his successor. The name of Mr Brotherston also deserves to 
be recorded, as having been the first to introduce cotton-sp\nning 
into Scotland, which he accomplished at Eskmills in this parish, 
about sixty years since. 

Nor should the name of James Niven be altogether passed over 
in an account of his native parish. He distinguished himself as a 
traveller and a botanist, and as such was honoured with||^the pa- 
tronage of several scientific societies and individuals, among whom 
was the accomplished and unfortunate Josephine, who found, in 
the culture of flowers at Malmaison, probably as much real happi- 
ness as she had ever experienced as Empress of France, at the 
Thuilleries. A more detailed account of him may be found in 
Loudon's Gardener's Magazine for March 1827. 

ThB Chief Landholders. — The land is possessed by 13 he- 
ritors paying^ parish rates. Of these Sir George Clerk is by far 
the most considerable, his valuation amounting to one-half of the 
whole. There are only three other properties of considerable 
extent besides that of Penicuik, viz. Newhall, Logan House, and 
Bavelaw. The nine remaining are inconsiderable. 

Parochial Beffisters. — -The records of the kirk-session have been 
preserved entire from the year 1654 to the present time. The pe- 
rusal of these volumes has not been rewarded by any discovery de- 
serving of insertion in this place. Yet the following notice of the 
battle of Pentland, which was fought in this neighbourhood, may 
interest some readers. It occurs under the date of December 9» 
1666, The battle took place on the 28th November. << Dis- 
bursed to John Brown, belman, for making Westlandmen's graves, 
ds. 4d." This may perhaps be taken as a confirmation of a charge^ 



36 EDINBURGHSIIIUE, 

brought by Crookshank, in his History of the State and Suffer- 
ings of the Church of Scotland, against the people of the neigh- 
bourhood, ** that they were very cruel to the fleeing army of the 
Covenanters, niany of whom they killed, and others they took pri- 
soners." The battle was not fought in the parish, but a little ta 
the eastward, so that those whom John Brown interred were most 
likely some of the unfortunate individuals alluded to by Crook- 
shank, as having been killed by the people of Penicuik in their 
flight westwards. 

Antiquities.* — Newhall House seems, in former times, to have 
been the seat of a religious establishment of some note. Lying on 
the conflnes of a very extensive and desolate waste, and on the line of 
the principal route from Edinburgh to the south-west, from which at 
this point there was a pass over the Pentlands to the north, it seems 
to have been originally intended to serve as a hospice for the shel- 
ter and refreshment of travellers, over what must have been at the 
time a dreary tract of country. A farm house in its immediate 
neighbourhood bears the name of the Spittal ; and though at pre- 
sent good roads and inns have rendered such institutions unneces- 
sary, the poor wayfarer is still held entitled to receive gratuitous- 
ly the accommodation of a night's lodging at the Spittal of New- 
ball. On the summit of the pass before alluded to, at the eleva- 
tion of 1500 feet above the sea, there are the remains of a Ro- 
man Catholic station. The cross which hallowed it has disap- 
peared, but the stone which formed its pedestal still remains, with 
two deep indentations, which have evidently been worn by the 
knees of the many passing worshippers. Some workmen rudely 
overthrew this stone last year, and were rewarded by obtaining 
possession of a few old copper coins. Brunstane Castle, on the 
£sk, upwards of two miles above Penicuik, is a ruin of conside- 
rable extent, and has evidently been a place of importance. It 
would seem to have been built in the year 1580. Logan House is 
another remnant of feudal times, which possesses rather an inte- 
resting character from its romantic situation, enclosed as it is on 
all sides by the Pentlands, and encircled by the rather classic 
stream of the same name. It became a favourite hunting-tower 
of the Scottish kings. It was on the adjacent grounds that the 
celebrated match took place between the hounds of King Robert 
Bruce, and Sir Willian St Clair of Roslyn, as more particularly 

* A very particular account of all that can pretend to the interest of antiquity, will 
be found in the Appendix to the last Statistical Account. 

4 



PKNICUIK. 37 

detailed in the Notes to the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and which 
led to the erection by the latter of the Chapel of St Catherine's, 
about a mile below the hunting-tower. The picturesque ruins of 
this ancient monumentof Sir William St Clair's gratitude to his pro- 
pitious saint, was submerged, as has been stated, by the Edinburgh 
Water Company, on the formation of their great reservoir. The re- 
mains of its walls may still be perceived rising from the waters, when 
they are unusually low, as was the case last year (1835.) Some old 
coins were found under the altar piece, on its being turned up some 
years since. The scenery on this romantic stream has long dis- 
puted with that on the Esk at Newhall, the honour of being the 
local habitation of the dramatis persoruB of the Gentle Shepherd. 
They both have had and still have their advocates, and much 
has been written and still more said on the subject. But, as 
the amount of authorship in favour of the Esk rather preponde« 
rates, that stream, otherwise so classic, enjoys the envied honours. 
It is unnecessary to describe the mansion-houses of the gentry. 
They remain as they were when the last account was written ; nor 
is any of them deserving of notice except Penicuik House, which 
is an elegant modern mansion, in the Grecian style, celebrated for 
its Ossian's Hall, a large room, the ceilings of which are painted 
by Runciman, the designs being taken from Ossian's Poems. Run- 
ciman was, when young, employed with others to paint Penicuik 
House. Whilst so engaged he attracted the favourable notice of 
Sir James Clerk, then a great patron of Scottish genius. By him 
he was sent to Rome, where he studied for some time. His death 
is said to have been occasioned by the painful exertions he was 
obliged to mak^ in painting the roof of the hall, which he had to 
perform lying on his back. Pieces so executed cannot, of course, 
be expected to display the highest perfection of the art ; but they 
present very fair specimens of Runciman's style, and perhaps both 
the ground and the subjects were the most favourable for his bold, 
but exaggerated manner. The most marked improvements have 
taken place within the last forty years on the farm-houses and 
steadings. All those on. the Penicuik barony have been rebuilt 
in a substantial way, with slated roofs and other improvements, at 
once for use and comfort. The same may be observed as to the 
Newhall property. 

Nor have the manufacturing class been behind the agricultural, 
in improving their mills and dwelling-houses. A corresponding 
degree of improvement is discernible in the shops aiid dwelling- 



38 EDINBUUGHSHIRE. 

liouses in the villiage* The former being lighted with gas, and 
neatly fitted up, are equal to those of most country towns, and give 
to the place a greater air of prosperous comfort, than is generally to 
be met with in a Scotch village. A number of new dwelling-houses 
have been erected during the course of the last six years, and all in 
a style of superior convenience and elegance. It is believed that, 
did the proprietor encourage feuing, many more would be added« 
In the year 1831, an enterprizing individual converted the Govern- 
ment cavalry barracks, which stood to the north of Penicuik, and 
which had remained unoccupied since the end of the war, into a 
foundery, which employs a number of hands, and is in constant ope- 
ration. 

III. — Population. 
It has not been in my power to ascertain from any authentic do- 
cuments the ancient amount of the population. There occurs, at 
times, in the minutes of session a note of the number of communi- 
cants, as, for example, in June 1721, there were 876, in June 
1779, there were only 345. The diminution is not, however, to 
be ascribed to a falling off in the population, but to the erection 
of a Dissenting place of worship at Howgate, in the year 1750. 
Under the date of 1779, I find a note intimating that it appears 
from a roll made up by the minister at that time, there were then 
in the parish 1349 individuals young and old. 



Population in 1801, 


• 


1705 


1811, 


• 


1827 


1821, 


• 


1058 


1831, 


• 


2255 



From these it appears that the population has been progressive- 
ly on the increase. This must be ascribed chiefly to the paper 
manu&ctories ; for though there has been during the last fifty years^ 
a great improvement in the agriculture of the parish in reclaiming 
Waste lands, &c still, from the converting of small farms into large 
ones, which has taken place to a considerable extent, the increase 
of the agricultural population has been checked. Inhabitants of 
the parish now living can easily remember the days when upwards 
of twenty heads of families would regularly cross the Pentlands to 
worship at Penicuik ; now scarce a single individual comes from 
that quarter of the parish, all the families there being reduced to 
two or three. Improvements in machinery are now also beginning 
to operate in the same way on the manufacturing population, as 
a much larger amount of produce can now be raised by fewer hands. 
It would be incorrect, therefore, to estimate the prosperity of the 



PENICUIK. 3f) 

parish by the increase of the population. In the month of No- 
vember 1835, the writer took up a new census, when he found no 
more than 2286 souls, — which shews that the population has not 
been much on the increase since 1831. Of this number, 1250 
are resident in Penicuik or its immediate neighbourhood. The 
following table exhibits the yearly average of births, deaths, and 
marriages for the seven years preceding Whitsunday 1831. 

Births registered. Marriages registered. Deaths registered. 



1825, 


39 


• 


21 


„ 


41 


1826, 


86 


» 


14 


. 


43 


1827, - 


41 


. 


12 


. 


66 


1828, 


d5 


. 


17 


. 


61 


1829, 


32 


. 


16 


• 


47 


1890, 


32 


• 


20 


. 


49 


I8S1, 


18 


- 


12 


- 


68 


Total, 


233 


• 


112 




875 


Average 


33 




16 




53 



The register of deaths may be presumed to be correct, be- 
cause no interment could take place without registration. The 
list of marriages may also be considered as pretty accurate, 
but no reliance can be placed on that' of births, — which may 
be taken to exhibit only one*half of the actual number of births. 
The Dissenters, who amount to one-third of the whole popu- 
lation, rarely, if ever, register the births of their children, and 
many of the Established Church neglect it, notwithstanding all 
that can be said to induce them to do so. Seventy births per an- 
num, at an average, I should consider as a fair approximation, in- 
stead of 33, as the table would make it. There are 417 persons 
underseven, and 97 above theage of seventy. Instances of individuals 
reaching to the term of ninety are pretty frequent. I have seen a 
reel danced in the neighbourhood of Penicuik by four persons, 
whose united ages came to 320 years. There are at present 55 
males above fifty years, who are unmarried, or are widowers, and 
64 females above forty-five, who are unmarried. The total num- 
ber of families was 522 in 1835, the average number in each fa- 
mily, being 4|. In the village of Penicuik it is, however, under 4) 
but in the landward part of the parish it is upwards of 5. Number 
of inhabited houses, 500. 

The people are, in general, strong and healthy, but not so in 
any remarkable degree. Insanity has prevailed more than might 
have been expected. In the year 1830, two individuals committed 
siiicide under its influence, one of whom accomplished the death 



40 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of her attendant relative, and the other nearly succeeded in a si- 
milar attempt. There were then 5 others in confinement for lu- 
nacy, and nearly the same number fatuous. There are only two 
deaf mutes, and one blind at present. The ifumber of deaths 
from suicide, murder, or other violent causes within the last ten 
years in the parish and vicinity seems deserving of record, as re- 
markably great, amounting to no fewer than 20. Of these, 8 per^ 
sons committed suicide; 2 were murdered ; 2 drowned ; 2 lost in 
snow ; I killed by lightning ; 1 killed violently without intent to 
murder; 2 by machinery; and 2 by intemperance. 

Number of illegitimate births in the parish during the last three 
years, 16. 

Sir George Clerk, and H. Brown, Esq. of Newhall, are at this 
period the only resident proprietors of considerable fortune. There 
are, however, altogether nine landed proprietors whose income ex- 
ceed L. 50. Before the passing of the Reform Bill, the parish 
yielded only five qualifications; there are now three old freeholders 
and 77 new voters enrolled, as qualified to vote. 

Amusements. — The favourite game in this part of the country is 
curling, to which the parishioners of Penicuik have long been de- 
voted. In their contests with the neighbouring parishes, they have 
hitherto been very successful. There is a numerous Curling Club, 
whose members annually play for a silver medal given by their pa- 
tron. Sir G. Clerk.* 

Character^ Sfc. of the People, — The habits of the people are in 
general cleanly, but there is not in this respect, nor as regards their 
dress and style of living, any thing remarkable. 

By the following returns, which may be relied on as accurate, it 
is to be feared that intemperance prevails to a greater extent than 
might have been expected : 

Stock of spirits ID band within the parish at 5th January 1838, . 1461 gallons. 
Brought in since and 22d March, • . • 737 

Total at 22d March 1838, . 2198 

Stock in hand 22d March 1838, . . 1310 

Consumption during the quarter, . 888 gallons. 

Supposing the average price per gallon to be 8s. 888 gallons 
comes to L..356, 4s., which, multiplied by 4, gives L. 1420, 16s. 
To this sum, large as it is, must be added one-fifth more for four 

* This club has presented their excellent patron with a finely mounted bunting 
born, the crest of his family ; and their indefatigable secretary, Mr Jackson, with 
an elegant ink-stand, in the form of a curling stone, of the value of L.12. 



PENICUIK. 41 

Spirit-shops not included in this return, and the whole sum spent 
annually on ardent spirits within the parish will be about L. 1700, 
although it is to be hoped that this sum is not all expended by 
parishioners. A Total Abstinence Society exists, and numbers 
100 members. 

As the manufacturing population are in the receipt, of -re- . 
gular and good wages, their houses present on the whole a 
greater appearance of comfort than is generally to be met with 
in the cottages of our peasantry. The character of these lat- 
ter is decidedly moral and intellectual, and their standard of ci- 
vilization high. They read much, and take a pride in the ac- 
quisition of knowledge. These laudable qualifications are not, as 
may be expected, unaccompanied, in every circumstance, by those 
unhappy effects, which generally flow from a ** little learning." Po- 
litical reading and discussion preponderates, accompanied with no 
little degree of disaffection to the institutions of the country, par- 
ticularly the rights and privileges of the Established Church. A 
great number of the paper manufacturers are Dissenters, and, al- 
most without an exception. Voluntary Churchmen. The tenantry 
are an exceedingly shrewd and industrious class ; some of them are 
also Dissenters, but they are more moderate in their political sen- 
timents than the other class. The weavers are not a numerous body, 
amounting in all to eight, and they are much depressed by low 
profits. But, on the whole, a great change for the better has taken 
place within the last thirty years, in the social condition of the 
people, — though I cannot affirm that this improvement arises 
from an increased diffusion of godliness. While it may with 
confidence be affirmed that infidelity and open irreligion have 
greatly declined, it must be allowed that that high-minded de- 
votion which eminently distinguished the people in former times 
is now rarely to be met with. They who can recall those primi- 
tive days before the effects of war or manufactures were known to 
this rural district, lament the decay of religious feeling, and the dis- 
use of those services at the family altar from which spring so many 
social blessings and civil virtues. I fondly believe, however, that 
domestic religion is now again reviving. Poaching is a crime which 
has been, of late, much on the increase, and has led to scenes 
happily not often exhibited on this side of the Border. The land- 
ed proprietors endeavour to protect their game, by employing 
keepers, while their tenantry are strictly prohibited from shooting ; 
an unhappy arrangement, and one that signally defeats its own 
end. The tenantry have no interest in detecting the poacher, and 



42 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the game-keepers are intimidated, and are consequently of little 
service. Some time since^ one of these keepers was fired at and se- 
verely wounded by four poachers at eleven o'clock in the forenoon. 
Smuggling has been completely abandoned. As there are con- 
stantly two revenue officers at Penicuik, there would be little pros- 
pect of practising it with success. Pawnbroking, properly so cal- 
led, does not exist, though there are many melancholy instances 
of pledging goods for spirits. 

IV.— Industry. 
I have found it impossible to arrive at any thing like a definite 

estimate of the amount of cultivated and uncultivated land in the 
parish. The difficulty arises from the width and unenclosed 
character of the parish. The subjoined statement may be regard- 
ed as conjectural. The extent of the parish is estimated to be 
20,000 acres. Nearly 7000 are in the estate of Penicuik, of these 
I should say one-half are in tillage, of the remaining 3500, I 
should think 1500 might be reclaimed with profit. The estate of 
Logan House numbers 4000 acres, or thereby ; these, with the ex- 
ception of 50 acres or thereby, are all in pasture. This is rather 
more than one-half of the whole parish. Of the other half, I 
should think that as much as can be profitably reclaimed has been 
so already ; not more than a third of this, however, is in tillage. 

Agriculture. — lliere is no undivided common, nor any extent of 
underwood. The woods, which cover upwards of 1000 acres 
Scotch, consist of forest trees, and those on the Penicuik proper- 
ty are kept in the very best order, under the care of a judicious 
forester. There is a wide extent of unreclaimed moorland to the 
south-west of the village of Penicuik, which is, however, being 
gradually, though slowly, brought under the plough. It may be 
expected*, however, that this process will now proceed with greater 
rapidity and success, as two excellent] turnpike roads have lately been 
carried through the midst of it. The most astonishing efibrts have 
been made by Mr Carstairs of Springfield on 500 acres of per- 
haps the bleakest moorland in Scotland. This most indefatiga- 
ble and meritorious individual purchased some years since, this 
then most uninviting property, and has continued since then his 
e£forts to reclaim it, with a perseverance which no difficulties or 
discouragements have been able to damp. He has intersected the 
moss, which is nearly a dead level, with railways and a canal, on 
which, by carriages and boats, he transports the peat-moss from tlie 
interior to spots where ne is able to dispose of it, by selling it for 



PENICUIK. 43 

fuel, or burning it for manure. Already, the waste presents a much 
more cheerful aspect, and a sort of oasis is formed amidst its 
weary and desolate expanse. It is pleasant, moreover, to know 
that the enterprising proprietor is no loser by* his improvements ; 
at least, he is quite satisfied with the returns from his moorland. 
It may also be stated that his ingenuity and enterprise are not 
confined to agricultural pursuits ; for, having in such a climate 
rather a superfluity of water, he makes the surplus from ' his 
canal serviceable in turning a mill for the manufactory of combs. 
There are very considerable facilities for the reclaiming of waste 
land throughout the whole parish, from the abundance of lime at 
its eastern and western extremities ; while coal is not distant The 
tenants on the Penicuik property have availed themselves of the 
judicious liberality of their landlord in allowing them to drive lime, 
on the very lowest terms. They are, consequently, diminishing 
yearly the extent of waste land. The climate appears to be sensibly 
ameliorated by their exertions. It is to be regretted that the faci- 
lities enjoyed in many places for irrigation, particularly with moss 
water, do not seem to be appreciated. 

^ The duration of leases is, with scarce any exception, nineteen 
years. The former proprietor of Penicuik gave one for a term 
of thirty-eight years, but the result is understood to have been un* 
fevourable both to landlord and tenant If, at the end of his 
lease, the farmer has been improving, it is renewed to him, at: a 
rent determined by the award of a competent and impartial judge. 
Thus, few changes take place amongst the tenantry on the Peni* 
cuik property especially, who are to a man enterprizing and im- 
proving farmers, and warmly attached to the landlord under 
whose judicious management they thrive.* Enclosures are ge- 
nerally formed of dry stone dikes, though hedges and ditches 
prevail in the better cultivated districts ; a mixture of beech or 
thorn is preferred to any other. On the Penicuik property 
drainage has been carried on extensively, and, of course, with, 
the happiest results. The proprietor opens the drains, and the 
tenant fills them* Furrow draining is being introduced but slowly, 
while that by tiles, which has proved so singularly successful in 
the west of Scotland, particularly in Ayrshire, has not yet been 
attempted. 

* This state of matters has suffered a little modification from the unfavourable har* 
vests of last three years, 1836-37-68. One or two changes have taken place within 
this period ; but, had it not been for goo<l management on the part of both landlords 
and tenants, these changes must have been much more numerous. 



44 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Bent of Land. — The rent of arable land varies from 5$. to L« 5 
per Scotch acre. Milch cows are pastured from Whitsunday to 
Martinmas for L. 5 ; two years do. for L. 2 ; sheep from 5s« 
to 12s. per annum. The breeds of cattle and sheep have 
been of late much improved by being crossed. The Ayr- 
shire enjoys a preference here, being found much better ad- 
apted to the climate than the short-horned or Teeswater breed, 
which proved on trial by far too delicate for the situation. For- 
merly, the Galloway breed was preferred to any ; but the great im- 
provements which have, of late, been made on pasturage have ad- 
mitted of the introduction of superior breeds. There is still much 
room for improvement in this department of farming, which, on 
many accounts, is the most important in this district, the rents 
being chiefly paid from the dairy produce. The horses reared 
and used are mostly of the Clydesdale breed. 

Value of Raw Produce, — I have been unable to ascertain with ac- 
curacy, the gross amount of raw produce raised yearly ; but an idea 
of its value may be formed, from the gross rental of land, includ- 
ing farms, parks, and gardens, kept by the proprietors. This 
amounts to L. 6827 per annum. If, to this amount, two rents be 
added, we obtain the sum of L. 20,481, which will serve with suffi- 
cient accuracy to represent the yearly value of the agricultural 
produce. The rental of houses and mills is upwards of L. 1000. 
'Manufactures. — Paper-making, with the trifling exception of 
weaving, is the only manufacture prosecuted in the parish ; but it 
is carried on to a considerable extent. The quantity of rags year- 
ly converted into paper averages above 1000 tons, and the whole 
value of the oianufacture may amount to L. 80,000 per annum. 
There are five paper machines* constantly employed, for at least 
twelve hours per diem, and occasionally through the whole twenty- 
four hours. These on an average cast off paper in a continuous 
web of 4^ feet wide, at the rate of 10 yards per minute, or a mile 
in the three hours. Each machine therefore throws off*, on an ave- 
rage,. 4 miles length of paper per diem, and the five machines ac- 
cordingly may produce daily a quantity of paper 20 miles long by 
\.\ yard wide ; or a whole surface of 62,800 yards. Upwards of 
L. 24,000 per annum is derived by Government from this beautiful 
manufacture, in the shape of duty, which amounts to about t30 per 
cent This is supposed to equal the whole amount paid by Ire- 
land to the revenue on this article ; so that this parish is as produc- 

* Another machine is being now put up at Eskmills, Feptember 1839. 



PENICUIK. 45 

live in paper duty as the whole sister kingdom. The above- 
mentioned machines, which require the attendance of only one man 
and two lads, accomplish as much nearly as 80 men and lads could 
perform formerly by the vat ; yet the continually increasing demand, 
and the consequent extension of the works, has kept up if not mul- 
tipUed the number engaged in this manufacture. There are at 
present about 400 men, women, and children, continually employ* 
ed from ten to twelve hours per diem, six days in the week ; 
the men receiving from 2s. to ds. per diem, the women from 9d. 
to Is. dd., and the children from 6d. to lOd. As the work is not, 
except perhaps in its first stage of rag-cutting, unhealthy, the mills 
ventillated and heated, the workers, well paid and comfortably 
lodged, no prejudicial e£fects result from the manufacture, and 
the morals are in general very exemplary.* 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

The village of Penicuik has no regular market, but its nume- 
rous shops furnish at all times every necessary and luxury of do- 
mestic life. It has annually two fairs, held on the third Friday 
of March, and first Friday of October, chiefly for hiring servants. 
The police consists of a number of special constables, who act under 
the bailie of the barony ; their services are seldom required. The 
bailie holds a court monthly. Besides Penicuik, which contains a 
population of 687 souls, there are three other hamlets in the pa- 
rish, Kirkhill, with 394 souls ; Howgate with about 120 ; and Nine- 
mile- Burn with upwards of 20 families. 

Means of Communication » — Three great turnpike roads traverse 
the parish from north to south, viz. the old Dumfries road by How- 
gate ; the new one by Penicuik, and a lately much improved line 
by Nine-mile Burn. There is also another turnpike road recent- 
ly opened, running diagonally to these, and connecting Penicuik 
with Linton, while a parallel line is being carried through be- 
tween Penicuik and Nine- Mile Burn. The parish is, therefore, 
in all directions intersected by good roads. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is conveniently situated 
irt regard to the great bulk of the population, upwards of 1200 souls 
residing in its immediate vicinity ; but it is widely removed from 
the eastern and western extremities of the parish, from which it is 
upwards of four and six miles distant. It is a chaste structure of 

* Since these details, which refer to 1836, were received, the duty on paper has 
been reduced to one-half, and a great extension has followed in the production of that 
article. Steam power has been required to aid that of water, often incapable of ac- 
complishing the work in demand. 



46 EDiNBUUGUSHiaE. 

Grecian architecture, and is in good repair ; it bears the date 177 !• 
As, however, it cannot accommodate more than '^dOO, not one^ 
fourth of the population, it is greatly too small. Plansy'^are, how* 
ever being made out, with the view of adding 300 sittings ; and 
it is to be hoped, that another year will not pass without seeing 
them completed.* At present there are upwards of 100 free sittings* 
The manse, which was built about forty years since, is large and 
commodious, but is a very insufficient building. The contractor, 
who had undertaken its erection on too low an estimate, iailed be- 
fore he had completed it, and the work was carried on by his cre-> 
ditors, who run it up in the slightest manner. The glebe contains 
from 6 to 7 acres of good ground, which let with the fkrm offices 
for L. 26 per annum on lease. The stipend amounts to L. 78, 
all in money, and the teinds are exhausted. It comes, of course, 
under the benefit of the Act for Augmenting Poor Livings. 

There is a meeting house of the Secession denomination at How- 
gate, built in the year 1750, which may accommodate about 400* 
The stipend is raised wholly by seat rent. Of the population, 
1434 reckon them^lves adherents of the Established Church ; 
852 are Dissenters, chiefly of the Secession body. There are not 
10 Roman Catholics in the parish. Divine service is well attend- 
ed in the church. At the last summer communion, there were 
540 communicants ; but there are upwards of that number on the 
roll. The roll of heads of families entitled to exercise the veto con-* 
tains 190 names. The church is lighted by gas. The collections 
for the poor average about L. 30 ; an extraordinary contribution may 
amount to from L.6 to L.8, although L. 18 has been obtained* 
There is an association in connection with the Established Church 
for religious purposes both at home and abroad. Its receipts by 
subscriptions and otherwise have, for the firstsix months, amounted 
to upwards of L. 20. This sum has been mainly raised by very 
small individual contributions. 

Education, — There are eight daily, and four Sabbath schools* 
Of these, two are infant schools,— -one maintained by the Misses 
Cowan, and the other much aided by the grant of a house, &c* 
by the proprietor of Eskmills. The number of pupils constantly 

* Tliete plans were fully carried out in the year 1837, at an expense of nearly 
L 600 Sterling, including a heating apparatus. Of this sum, about L.400 was raised 
by subscription, the remainder was borrowed, and the debt so contracted is being H« 
quidated by u very small pew rent on the new sittings. Iheseare all eagerly secur- 
ed and fully occupied ; and no experiment of the kind could have been more success- 
ful or gratifying to the kirk.se&sion, by whom it was carried through. 



PBNICUIK. 47 

under instruction varies ; but on an average it may be stated as high 
as 340 or thereabouts, or about one-seventh of the whole popula- 
tion. The parochial school alone can be said to be endowed, though 
two or three others are assisted by the heritors, &c. The parish 
teacher draws the maximum of salary, but does not, from the infir- 
mities of age, act as schoolmaster. The office is filled by an assist- 
ant, who is wholly dependent on fees. Little beyond the common 
branches of reading, writing, and arithmetic, is in demand or ac- 
tually communicated. The usual fees for these branches may 
amount to L.45 or L.50 per annum. His other emoluments may 
amount to L.6 per annum. I am not aware of any persons betwixt 
five and fifteen years of age who are not capable of reading, and of 
very few who cannot write, at least at the last mentioned age. In 
general, the people have been, and are quite alive to the benefits of 
education, as the number of schools testifies ; and an additional one 
will be opened in a month or two, making in all 9 schools, or one 
to every *255 inhabitants ; nor is any of these so far removed from 
parishioners, as to prevent their sending their children. 

Literature, — There is one Subscription Library, containing up- 
wards of 1200 volumes, to which 50 subscribers belong ; another, 
in connexion with the Secession meeting-bouse at Howgate, is set 
up, and another is contemplated in connexion with the church. 

Friendly Societies. — There were lately four Friendly Societies 
in the parish, but the oldest of them has been given up. The 
next in order is not in a flourishing way ; but the latest, which was 
established nearly forty years since, has now a capital of upwards 
of L. 1200. It may be questioned, however, if any of them has 
produced beneficial effects. Their annual parades are sometimes 
attended with not a little riot and intemperance. 

Savings Bank. — A Savings Bank was established some years 
ago. in 18d5, the contributors amounted to 60, and the stock 
to little short of L. 900. From L. 10 to L. 20 may be deposited 
monthly, — sometimes more, but generally less than this is drawn 
out It has increased in its transactions, for in the year 1821 the 
deposits were only L. 250. The manufacturing class deposit 
the greatest amount, and the effects on their habits are very be- 
neficial. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are at present.about 40 pau- 
pers on the roll, who receive from 5s. to 8s. per month. There 
were lately no fewer than four lunatic paupers, but one only now 
remains. The funds for the support of the paupers are raised 



48 KDINBUIK.HSHIRE. 

from an assessment on the real rent, imposed twice a-year, the 
average yearly amount of which for the year 1838 was L. 160 ; 
from mortcloth* dues, which, from being resisted by the Dissenters, 
chiefly yield little ; and from collections, which, from the great 
number of Seceders who contribute nothing, do not bring more 
than L.dO per annum. Total amount of contributions for the poor 
upwards of L.200 a-year. The kirk-session made a strenuous at- 
tempt in the year 1831 to act on Dr Chalmers's views, as to doing 
away the compulsory assessment, and supporting the ordinary poor 
by voluntary contribution. It was, however, unsuccessful, and ended 
by the heritors imposing the assessment according to the real, and 
not, as had previously been the case, by the valued rent. This 
has involved them in a series of law pleas with the manufacturers 
and feuars, occasioning great expense, and much heartburning. 
The questions which have arisen are now (1839) all adjusted. 
The poor are pressing on the funds, and often endeavour to 
make good their claims by having recourse to law. Pauperism is 
not held so much in horror as it once was, and ought to be. The 
first regular assessment was imposed in the year 1800, — one of un- 
exampled scarcity. Matters with respect to the poor are other- 
wise, however, well managed. The parish is divided into seven 
districts, over each of which there is at least one resident elder 
and one deacon, whose duty it is to examine minutely into every 
case of pauperism* The deacons are generally farmers, or others 
of business habits, and well acquainted with, and looked up to, by 
their respective districts. Their appointment, which took place 
in 1834, has been productive of the happiest effects, and may be 
recommended for adoption elsewhere. So large and efficient a 
session seems to produce a most beneficial action and effect on 
the religious and secular interests of the parish. 

In the year 1893, a number of persons associated themselves to deprive the poor 
of the profits of the mortcloth dues, though the kirk.«e6sion had reduced these to one- 
fourth nearly of their former amount, in the hope of accommodating matters with- 
out one. The session were, accordingly, constrained to have recourse to l^gal me»> 
Bures, and obtained a decreet in their fitvour in the year 1896, in which the other 
party has acquiesced. 

Drawn up in 1836, 
Revised July 1839. 



PARISH OF TEMPLE. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JAMES GOLDIE, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name. — The parish retains its ancient name, derived from an 
establishment for the Templars, or Red Friars, founded by King 
David I. of Scotland.f 

Extent and Boundaries. — Its extent may be about 9 miles at its 
greatest length, and its greatest breadth is about 5. Besides this, 
however, there is another portion, four miles eastward, entirely se- 
parated by a section of Borthwick parish, consisting of about 800 
acres. It is bounded on the soutli and south-west, by the parishes 
of Eddleston and Innerleithen ; on the west, by Penicuik ; on the 
north-west and north, by Carrington ; on the north-east and east, 
by Borthwick ; and on the south-east, by Heriot. 

Topographical Appearances^-^The only mountain range is that 
of Muirfoot, a continuation of Lammermuir, and running almost 
north-east to south-west. The highest of this range appears 
from the survey of Generals Roy and Mudie, to be 1850 feet, 
while Lawrie's Map of Mid- Lothian states it only at 1300 feet. In 
Knox's Map of Mid- Lothian, taken from actual survey, the prin- 
cipal elevations of this range arc stated thus : Huntly Cot-hills, 
1606 feet above the level of the sea; Long-Shank Hill, 1687 ; 
The Kips, 1785; Bowbeat Hill, 2096; Blakehope Scaurs, the 
highest in the county, 2193. 

Hydrography.— The South Esk takes its rise from the Muir- 
foot Hills, and runs through the parish for about twelve miles in 
a north-easterly direction, when it is joined by the North-water, 

In drawing up this Account, the minister has to acknowledffo the assistance of 
the ReT. Hew Scott. 

t, Pw an account of this ancient religious fraternity, see Spottiswood*s Account of 
. Religious Houses, appended to Keith's Catalogue of the Bishops, original edition, 
p. 265, and Chalmers' Caledonia, ii. 767 and 812. 
EDINBURGH. D 



50 EDINBURGHSHIIIE. 

which, taking its rise from the West Loch, in the parish of Ed- 
dlestone, runs in a more circuitous course, bounding and watering 
the parish on the north-west. After leaving the parish, it flows in 
a similar direction, until it joins the North Esk in Dalkeith Park, 
when they proceed until they join the Frith of Forth at Mussel- 
burgh. The Gore-water, one of the tributaries to the South 
Esk, also bounds the eastern district of the parish on the west. 

Geology and Mineralogy . — The Muirfoot Hills are of greywacke, 
and most part of the parish abounds with lime and freestone, while 
the detached district in the eastern part is full of coal. 

The only species of fossil organic remains hitherto found are 
shells in limestone. 

Soih — The lower part of the soil of the western district of the parish 
is chiefly dry and sharp on a gravel bottom. In the higher part, there 
is a considerable portion of mossy soil, from three inches to four 
feet deep. The eastern district of the parish is chiefly made up 
of strong clay. The light soils are much infested by quickens and 
tussilago. 

Zoology. — The cattle bred here are chiefly of the short-homed 
species, and the sheep of the black-faced kind. The rivers con- 
tain trout, &c Formerly salmon and sea-trout came up for spawn- 
ing ; since the erection, however, of dam-heads, &c for carrying 
on various manufactories, farther down the rivers, their ascent in 
this direction has been entirely prevented. 

Botany, — The parish has been much adorned by plantations 
formed by the late Lord Chief- Baron, Messrs Hepburne, formerly 
proprietors of the lands of Clerkington and Muirfoot, and the 
present Earl of Rosebery, now in possession of these estates. 
The largest ash-tree is in the garden belonging to the manse, and 
cannot be equalled in appearance and value by any in several of 
the surrounding parishes. 

II. — Civil History. 
An old account of the parish is lodged in the General Register 
House at Edinburgh,* drawn up about 1627, apparently with a 
view of ascertaining the teinds, from which it appears, the parishes 
of Clerkingtoun and Muirfut were united to Tempill ^* be ane de- 
creet of the platt, anno 1616 ;" that a scnool was then established, 
though no provision was made for it ; and that the communicants 
amounted to 300, being much the same number as at present In 

* Printed with forty-eight others of the same period, for the use of the MaitUnd 
Club. 



TEMPLE, 51 

the name of seven ^' commissioners electit and sworn for the pa- 
roche of Tempill," by whom the report was drawn up, it appears 
from the subscription of a notary, that' he was requested to adhibit 
his subscription << becaus we cannot wryte oursellfFes/' 

Land'Owners. — The principal heritors are, Robert Dundas, Esq. 
of Arniston, and the Earl of Rosebery.* The only other heritors 
are, James Dewar, Esq. of Vogrie, and William Tait of Toxside, 
The valued rent of the whole is as follows : Arniston, L. 2291, 
3s. 4d.; Rosebery, L. 1669, Is. 2d*; Vogrie, L. 287 ; Toxside, 
L. 152, 5s. 6d.; total, L. 4399, 10s. 

Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers of baptisms and 
marriages commence from the ordination of Mr David Walker at 
the meeting-house at Nicolsone, and then in Temple, 14th No- 
vember 1688: and the register of discipline commences 22d June 
1690. They form altogether four volumes, besides fragments, but 
are by no means in a good state of preservation. The records of 
births and proclamations, however, are now preserved with consi- 
derable accuracy. 

Antiquities. — The old church of Temple is very ancient ; said 
to have been built by David I. of Scotland. On the east gable im- 
mediately below the belfry are inscribed in lead put into the stone, 

ViESAC 
MIHM. 

ap inscription of which no antiquarian who has hitherto seen it, 
can give any explanation. About ten or twelve years ago, a medal 
of Oliver Cromwell the Protector was found on the farm of Rose- 
bery, and is now in possession of the Noble proprietor. 

Modern Buildings^ — The only modern building worthy of notice 
is the church, finished in 1832, which is very neat and commodi- 
ous ; and is placed on a very fine site. 

* That part of the parish of Temple which was anciently called Clarkington, and 
formed a separate parish under that denomination, was in 1695 in possession oif Sir 
John Nicolson, and formed a barony named Nicolson. In that year, it was sold to 
Axchibald Primrose of Dalmeny» in Linlithgowshire, second son of Sir Archibald 
P^imraae of Carrin^n, Bart. Lord Register and Justice. General of Scotland, who 
the same year obtained a charter under the Great Seal, by which this, with other con- 
tiguous lands^ was erected into a new barony, under the name of Rosebery, which he 
assumed as his title on being created a Viscount in 1700. This estate was sold by the 
first Earl of Rosebery in 17i2» to the Marquis of Lothian, who gave it the name of 
Mew Ancrum, but it remained only a short period in his fiimily, as it was disponed 
about 1749 to Mr Hepbume, who restored to it the original name of Clarkington. It 
was purchased in 1821 from his descendant, by Archibald John, fourth Ear] of Rose* 
bery, who again gave the barony the name wnich it bore when formerly in his family, 
and who was created a Peer of the United Kingdom, under that appellation, in ) 8^ 
The large and ancient mansion-house of the barony was began to be pulled down by 
Mr Hepburne ro 1805, and completely rased in 1812: 1m erected a small house 
nearly on the same site, which is now occupied by the principal tenant. 



52 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

III. — Population. 
The earliest account of the population occurs in the return to 
the Rev. Dr Webster in 1755, when it amounted to 905. Seven- 
teen years later, the examinable persons (above eight years of age) 
were found to be 604. 

The popuktioD, according to tbe ParliameDtary returoi, was, in 1801, - 801 

18II, - 1058 

1821. - 1166 
In 1831} t)ie population reached to 1255, being 652 malea and 603 females. 

The greatest increase in the population has taken place at Gore- 
bridge, caused by the erection of extensive works for the manufac- 
ture of gunpowder. 

The village of Gorebridge contains about 300, and Temple 
about 200 : the remaining population is scattered over the different 
&rms. 

The yearly average of births recorded for the seven years pre- 
ceding 1835, is 26f , and of marriages, 8. No register is kept of 
the mortality. 

The only resident proprietor is William Tait, Esq. 

Arniston House, the residence of the distinguished family of 
Amiston, borders on the parish ; but only the grounds and garden 
attached to it are situated in it. 

The number of families in 1831 amounted to .• 250 

chiefly employed in agriculture, • • 91 

trade, manufactures, and handicrafl, 89 
of inhabited houses at tbe same period, . 288 

of uninhabited houses, (while none were building at that period), 4 
There are 4 insane or fatuous persons. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The trees planted are mostly oak, ash, elm, beeeb, 
and various kinds of pine. About 100 acres are under wood. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is about L. I 
per acre ; grazing cattle for six months from L. 2 to L. 4 a head. 

Wages. — Labourers receive wages about Is. 6d. a day on an 
average throughout the year. 

Husbandry is carried on according to the most improved methods. 
A part of waste land has been recovered ; but the price of grain 
is now so reduced, that it is unreasonable to expect an agriculturist 
will consume his means by improving, while so small a remuneration 
is held out for his encouragement. Irrigation is not practised to 
any extent Nineteen years is the general duration of leases. 
Farm-buildings and enclosures are generally in a state of good 
repair. It may be mentioned that the principal enclosure is the 
dry stone dike. 



J 



TEMPLE. 53 

Quarries amd Min€S.-^The quarries abound with freestone, lime, 
and ooaL 

Manufadures.'^The 6rst gunpowder manufactory in Scotland 
was erected by Kitchener and Hunter at Stobsmills in 1794, which 
has since been greatly extended. The works are on the property of 
Robert Dundas, Esq. of Amiston, and James Dewar, Esq. of Vo- 
grie; they are chiefly in this parish, though partly in Borthwick. The 
situation is well adapted for carrying on the business. They occupy 
nearly three-quarters of a mile, and the different houses required 
in the more dangerous departments are all detached, and placed 
either between the natural projections of the glen, or arti&cial 
mounds planted with trees ; consequently, when an explosion does 
occur, it seldom destroys any other building than that in which it 
originated. They are supplied by a water-power issuing from four 
dam*heads, which drive ten water-wheels, one of which is 30 feet 
in diameter. The number of men employed is from 60 to 60. 
The Company export gunpowder to almost every quarter of the 
globe, and during the late war had a contract with Government for 
a supply. They gratuitously educate about fifty children belong- 
ing to the workmen, and have given pensions to the widows and 
families of such as have been unfortunately killed. The most 
systematic care is observed to prevent accidents. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Markets^ S^c* — There is no roarket^town in the parish. Dalkeith, 

distant six miles, is the nearest ; and is the best grain-market in 

Scotland. Some farmers, however, occasionally drive their grain 

to Edinburgh, where the prices are a little higher. It is distant 

eleven miles. 

The only villages in the parish worthy of the name are those 
of Temple and Oorebridge, and a part of Stobhill, the greater 
portion of which, however, is in Newbattle. 

The post-office for the parish is at Fushie-bridge. The turn- 
pike road from Peebles to Dalkeith runs through the parish, from 
Tweeddale-bum to Garrington-bridge, an extent of about six 
miles. No public carriages travel on this turnpike road ; but only 
the carriers going weekly from the villages of Temple and Rose- 
bery to Edinburgh. 

Ecclesioitical State. — After the Reformation, it appears the 
cure of Tempill was served by William Hudsoun, minister, whose sti- 
pend amounted only to fourscore merks, with the third of the vi- 
carage, extendincr to L. 3, 6s. 8d,, in all, L. 7, 15s. Bj^jd. Ster- 



54 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ling.* At the same period Mr John Douglas was reader at Clerk- 
ington,and had of stipend L. 16, 17s. 9d., or L. 1, 8s. l|d. Sterling, 
with the kirk land, paid out of the third of Corstorphin or kirk of 
Clerkington. -f* From that period, the cure of the parish de- 
volved on Mr George Haistie, from 1590 to 1594; Mr James 
Haistie, 1595 to 1608; Mr Thomas Copland, 1620 to 1631; 
Mr Robert Couper, 1632 to 1655; Mr Robert Mowat, 1656 to 
1662, when he was thrown out for non-conformity : he was restor- 
ed (by act of Parliament) 1690, but does not appear to have again 
discharged the duty, though he survived till 1692 ; Mr Robert 
. Spottiswood, 1663 to J 676; Mr Patrick Trent, 1676 to 1681, 
when he was deprived on account of not taking the test, and was 
obliged to give place to the old Presbyterian incumbent : Mr 
Alexander Burgess, 1682 to 1690, according to the act of Par- 
liament; Mr David Walker, 1690 to 1737; he previously offi- 
ciated in the meeting-house at Nicolson, in the parish, afiter the 
toleration granted by King James VII.; he then became the 
colleague of Mr Mowat : Mr Archibald Walker, 1738 to 1760; 
Mr Joseph M^Cormack, 1760 to 1770; Mr John Goldie from 
1771 to 1788; Mr James Goldie, 1789. In 1590^ Clerkington 
with Mont Lothian (now annexed to the parish of Penicuik) and 
Morphet formed another parochial cure served by Mr James 
Haistie, minister* 

The church is situated nearly in the north-east comer of-the 
parish, and is distant from the extremity most inhabited about 
seven and a-half or eight miles. Were the population at Gore- 
bridge to attend, the situation is perhsqps as convenient as any other. 
The people in that district, however, being nearer, generally attend 
the parochial ministrations at Borthwick. 

The church is in the best state of repair, and is seated for 500 
persons ; and fi'ee-sittings are provided at the communion tables 
for about 40. The manse is an old building, and its last repair 
took place about thirty-six or thirty-seven years ago. The glebe 
consists of 14 Scots acres, and might be let for about L. 30. The 
stipend is the minimum, and is made up by Government, all pay- 
able in money. 

* He was probably deprived, having subsequently officiated only as reader, (1574 
to 1578,) when William Knox, brother to the Reformer, had the pastoral' saperin- 
tendence of Cockpen, Carrington» Clerkington, and Tempill. 

t Register of Ministers, Exhorters, and Readers, and of their stipends (about 1567) 
after the Reformation, printed at Edinburgh, 1890, and presented to the Maitland ' 
Club by Alexander Macdooald, Esq^. of the General Register- House, Edinburgh. 



TEMPLE. 55 

About 100 families in the parish belong to the Established 
Church. 

There is a Dissenting chapel at Gorebridge belonging to the 
United Secession, to which a minister was admitted in 1813. His 
stipend, which may be L. 100, (besides a house and garden,) is 
made up from the contributions at the door of the chapel, seat- 
rents, and other eleemosynary sources ; and a meeting-house, for a 
small society of Anabaptists, is situated in that part of Stobhill 
which lies within the parish. 

Education, — There are 3 schools in the parish, 1 parochial, and 
2 unendowed, at Gorebridge, supported by individual subscription. 
The ordinary branches of instruction taught at the parochial school 
are, Latin, first principles of Greek, English reading, grammar, 
writing, arithmetic, mathematics, and geography. The subscrip- 
tion schools are nearly similar, but the higher branches arc not 
there so much required. The salary of the parochial teacher is 
the maximum, and he has all the advantages allowed by law. 
His fees may amount to L. 80 per annum ; and he has about 
L. 6 per annum from other sources. The general expense of edur 
cation per quarter is, for Latin and Greek, 5s. ; writing, arith- 
metic, mathematics, and geography, 8s. 6d. ; English reading, &c., 
ds. None between six and fifteen years, or above that age, are 
without the knowledge of reading and writing. All are fully sen- 
sible of the benefits of education, and do not fail to improve them. 

Gorebridge, where the greatest population is assembled, is too 
far distant from the parochial school; but as there are two schools 
within the village, no inconvenience is felt. Children in the upper 
part of the parish have an opportunity of attending the instructions 
of a teacher at Tweeddale Burn, in the parish of Eddleston ; and 
occasionally, the farmer at Muirfoot has a teacher for his own fa- 
mily, — whose instructions are also enjoyed by others in the vicinity. 
No additional schools are required. 

Literature, — A subscription library was instituted at Gorebridge 
14th December 1818 ; the number of subscribers is above 80, 
and. of volumes 600, in almost every department of modern 
literature, adapted for the instruction and entertainment of general 
readers. 

Charitable and-other Institutions. — A Friendly Society has been 
established for about ten years at Stobsmills ; and a Savings Bank 
has been established in the parish, joined with that of Borthwick. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The annual expenditure for the 



56 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

poor, iDcludiug two lunatics, is about L. 80^ The average num<- 
ber of persons receiving aid, exclusive of them, is from 16 to 18. 
The annual amount of collections at the church door may be about 
L. 7 ; and a small sum is raised from mortcloths, probably about 
L. 2 yearly. To cover the expense of the poor, however, it has 
been found necessary to raise an assessment, which is laid in equal 
parts upon the heritors and their tenants* 

InH8y Alehouses, ffc. amount to five or six, and they are attended 
with the usual bad consequences on the morals of the people* 

Ji\iel4 — Coal is procured from Vogrie in this parish^ Amiston in 
Cockpen, and Barleydean in Carrington ; none of these places 
above four miles distant. The price varies at the several collieries 
from Is. dd. to Is. lOd. per tub of four cwt.. 

Auffust 1839. 



PARISH OF CRICHTON. 

VRESBYTER.Y OV DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JOHN K. CUNNINGHAM, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Extent, ^c, — This parish is situated in the eastern part of the 
county of Edinburgh ; extending in length to about 5^ miles, and 
Ai in breadth. It is bounded on the north and west by the parish 
of Cranston ; on the south, by Borthwick ; and on the east, by 
Fala and Humbie. 

Topographical Appearances.^— The ground in this parish and 
neighbourhood is remarkable for its undulating nature ; hill and 
dale following each other in almost unbroken succession. It 
may be remarked, that these inequalities have been becoming more 
strikingly apparent for some years back ; in several instances, 
indeed, new irregularities of the surface are observable, and spaces 
of whole acres are visibly sinking from their former level, and form* 
ing large hollows, which but a short time ago could scarcely be 
noticed. 

The river Tyne takes its rise in the upper part of the parish, and,, 
holdbg a northerly direction for two or three miles, at last flows 

3 



CRICHTON. 67 

east through the county of Haddington, and, joined by its tributarieg, 
falls into the sea near Dunbar. 

In the lower district of the parish, a great part of the land is of a 
good deep soil, capable of producing excellent crops, while the 
rest of it is dry and sharp, and well adapted for turnip husbandry, 
which is carried on to a very considerable extent in this neigh- 
bourhood. In the upper part of the parish, the soil is much in- 
ferior, consisting chiefly of a thin moss upon a wet soft sand 
or clay bottom. Towards the east of this tract, however, the land 
again gradually improves, and, under a judicious system of manage- 
ment, is now producing crops which may almost vie with those of 
the more inland {larts of the parish. 

Wood to a great extent has been grown and cut down in the 
neighbourhood ; excellent specimens of which are still standing 
round the mansion house of Crichton. Belts of fir encircle the 
high grounds,-**which give an agreeably sheltered appearance 
to that part of the parish^ and, in^fact, are strikingly ornamental to 
the aspect of the country. 

* In the little glen which the Castle of Crichton overhangs, 
great numbers of glow-worms are to be met with in summer ; and 
if the admirer of these beautiful creatures would visit this spot in 
the twilight of the evenings, in the months of July and August, 
he would find himself amply rewarded in the brilliant display of 
shining lamps which the little illuminati of the glen are ever and 
anon beaming out around him. The month of July seems to be 
the period when the lights which they emit are the most striking 
and beautiful. After that time, they gradually become fainter, 
and towards the end of August and beginning of September, are 
extinguished for the season. 

IL — Civil Historit. 

The estate of Crichton, possessed by William Bum Callen*- 
der, Esq. comprehends by far the greatest part of the parish. The 
mansion house of the property has been long exchanged by the 
successive proprietors, for the very handsome residence of Preston- 
hall, in the neighbouring parish of Cranston. It is worthy of re- 
mark, that the garden attached to Crichton House was the first 
in Scotland, into which the present improved system of horticulture 
was introduced. 

Besides that of Crichton, there are several smaller properties in 
the parish ; Costerton, belonging to the late Rev. Francis NicolU 
D. D. Principal of the United College, St Andrews ; Blackcastle» 



58 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

to Alexander Mackavy Esq. ; a portion of the estate of John Ander- 
son, Esq. of Whitburgh ; and Ford, possessed by the late Simon 
Fraser, Esq. 

Antiquities. — On the estate of Crichton, and at a small dis- 
tance from the church, stands Crichton Castle, famous in Scotch 
story, and associated with many of its most remarkable events. Sir 
Walter Scott, in the Notes to his ** Marmion," thus writes regard- 
ing this old ruin ; <^ A large ruinous castle on the banks of the Tyne, 
built at different times, and with a very different regard to splendour 
and accommodation. The oldest part of the building is a narrow 
keep or tower, such as formed the mansion of a lesser Scottish 
Baron ; but so many additions have been made to it, that there is 
now a large court-yard, surrounded by buildings of different ages. 
The eastern front of the court is raised above a portico, and de- 
corated with entablatures bearing anchors. All the stones in this 
front are cut into diamond facets, the angular projections of which 
have an uncommonly rich appearance. The inside of this part of 
the building, appears to have contained a gallery of great length 
and uncommon elegance. Access was given to it by a magni- 
ficent staircase, now quite destroyed. The soffits are ornament- 
ed with twining cordage and rosettes, and the whole seems to have 
been far more splendid than was usual in Scottish castles/' 

Adverting to the antiquity of the castle. Sir Walter, in his 
Descriptive Illustrations of the Provincial Antiquities of Scotland, 
writes, '^ the size also and style of the building of the tower on 
the north-western angle show that it has been erected before the 
rest of the castle. Its antiquity, therefore, will probably draw back 
to the fourteenth century.*' 

We must not omit to mention the dungeon, a horrible vault, on- 
ly accessible by a square hole in the roof, through which captives 
were lowered into this den of darkness and oblivion. This pit is 
termed the ^^ massie more ;" a name of eastern origin, and still ap- 
plied to the dungeons of the ancient Moorish castles in Spain. 

The lofty massive and solid architecture impresses the specta- 
tor with a sense rather of awe than of beauty. Near the castle still 
stand the ruins of what appears to have been a chapeL 

Upon the property of Longfaugh, and forming now a part of the 
Crichton estate, there are very perfect remains of a Roman camp; 
It stands upon a rising ground, commanding one of the finest and 
most extensive views which the country can produce ; is of a cir- 
cular form, and the entrenchments entirely marked out all around. 

4 



CRTCHTON. 59 

Neither the Roman camp upon the Marquis of Lothian's ground 
to the west, nor that farther down the country, retain their dis- 
tinctive characteristics so well defined as the one in this parish. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers have been kept 
with very commendable regularity since 1687 ; in which year, the 
ordination of the first minister after the Revolution is thus record- 
ed in the register of discipline : *' November (1687,) Mr Mathew 
Selkrig was ordained minister of Crichton by the Presbyterian 
persuasion at Steils Mains. His call was given by certain heritors 
and people of the parishes of Crichton, Crdnston, Ormiston, imd 
Humbie." 

III. — Population. 

Population io 1801, - 923 

1811, - 1062 

1821, . 1195 

1831, - 1325 

Present population, . 1163 

Of these there reside in the Tillage of Pathhead, as nearly as can be 

ascertained, ..... . 749 

In the country parts of the parish, . . - ' - 414 

Yearly average of baptisms for the last seven years, - - 29 

mariages, ..... 9 

Number of proprietors of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, 5 

unmarried men above 50, bachelors and widowers, - 28 

unmarried women above 45, • - - 22 

widows, ...... 52 

Number of families in the parish in 1831, - - 309 

chiefly employed in agriculture, - 57 

trade, roanuiactures, or handicraft, 70 

The number of illegitimate births during the last three years is 4. 

IV. — Industry. 

jiffrictdture. — There are in the parish about 3900 Scotch acres; 
of these there are in tillage about 3300; moorland and out6eld 450. 
The remainder may be stated as under veood. Since the date of 
the last Statistical Account several hundred acres have been 
brought into constant cultivation, and even now very much indeed 
is doing by the present skilful and enterprising tenants to render 
the whole soil more productive and profitable. 

Lime Quarries. — Limestone to a very considerable extent has 
been and still is wrought upon the Crichton estate. It is much 
valued for its superiority in building, and, for several years, many 
hundred tons were annually driven, to supply the immense demand 
which the builders of Edinburgh then required. Great quantities 
are now carried south for the purposes of manure. 

Coal Mines. — Thin strata of coal are found in different parts of 
the parish, but at present no p\^s are opened for working. 

Amount of Raw Produce, — It is in many instances diflScult to 



60 EDINBURQHSHIRE. 

come very near the tnith, with respect to the gross amount of raw 
produce in a parish* As nearly as the writer of these observations 
has been able to ascertain it, it may be stated as under :— 

Grain of difierent kinds, . . . L. 5660 

Potatoes and turnips about • 1900 

Hay about ...... 1800 

L.9a60 

V. — Parochial EcoNOMy. 
Village^ S^c. — Pathhead is the principal village in the parish, 

made up for the most part of feus from the property of Crichton. 
The great road to the south, leading by Lauder, passes through 
the village, at the foot of which, a most magnificent bridge over the 
Tyne has lately been erected upon the Ford property, under the di- 
rection of Sir John Dalrymple, the present spirited convener for this 
district of roads. The bridge consists of five arches 80 feet high, by 
50 feet span, and crossing the beautiful valley, between Ford and 
the finely wooded grounds of Prestonhall and Oxenford, presents 
a truly picturesque and commanding appearance. 

Means of Communicatiaru — There is a post-ofiice at Pathhead, 
where are two arrivals and dispatches daily; and four coaches 
run on this line of road between Edinburgh and the south. The 
convenient distance from Dalkeith opens up a most ready market 
for the agricultural produce of the parish, so that altogether the 
means of communication which it enjoys are of a very superior na- 
ture. 

Ecclesiastical State. — It is to be regretted that the situation of 
the church is inconvenient for almost the whole population, stand- 
ing as it does at the western extremity of the parish^ distant from 
its most populous village two miles, and fully four from its eastern 
boundary. It is a fine old building in the form of a cross, and 
was founded in 1449 for a provost, nine prebendaries, and two 
singing-^oys, out of the rents of Crichton and Locherwart Within 
the last twenty years, the church has undergone a thorough repair, 
and is now perhaps one of the most handsome and comfortable in 
all the country. The church is seated for 600, but its distant 
situation excludes the hope of any such number attending regu- 
larly. The average number of communicants may be stated at 290. 

Manse, jfc. — The manse was built in 1758^ and is in very good 
repair. There are between 6 and 7 acres of glebe, which is ejL* 
cellent land, and worth L.d per acre. The stipend is paid in oat- 
meal and barley ; of the former t|)ere are nearly 169 cwt, and of 
the latter 792 bushels Imperinl measure ; besides L. 8, 6s. 8d. in 



CttlCHTON. 61 

name of communioD elements. Tbe number of families connect- 
ed with the Established Church is 189. The number of Dissent- 
ers in the parish is very considerable, resulting chiefly from the re- 
mote position of the church, and from the circumstance of a Dis* 
sentingmeeting-house being placed in the immediate neighbourhood 
of Pathhead, better situated for many, who, from age and other 
causes, cannot conveniently attend the parish church.' The num- 
ber of Dissenting families is 79. 

Education. — Besides the parochial, there are four other schools 
in the parish. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is the 
maximum, viz. L.34, 46. 4^d., and the average amount of his 
schoot-fees may be about L.dO. No salaries are' attached to any 
of the other teachers. Their schools are, in general, pretty well 
attended, and the branches taught in them, as in the parish school, 
are those commonly in use in the country. The fees being mo* 
derate, the advantages of education are very generally embraced 
by the people, with the exception of the children of colliers, 
a good many of whom are resident in Pathhead. These neglected 
little ones are found useful in assisting their parents in the coal- 
pits, and the comparatively high wages which the creatures gain, 
serve too much as a hinderance to their early education, and often, 
indeed, are the means of nearly excluding them altogether from 
that blessing. It requires to be here stated, that, within these two 
years, an Infant School has been opened in Pathhead, under the 
patronage and support of Mrs Bum Callender of Prestonhall. 
This institution is answering many of the expectations of its bene- 
volent projector, and promises, with the blessing of God, to be 
productive of much and lasting good. 

Library. — There is a circulating library in Pathhead. It con- 
tains a good many of the standard works of the present time, 
and is in a thriving way. 

Friendly Societies. — A society was formed in 1818^ consisting of 
ploughmen and others in the parish, called the ** Whipman So- 
ciety," the object of which was to raise a fund for the supply of 
distressed members, and to allow a certain sum at the death of 
a member or a member's wife, to defray the funeral charges. The 
Society has at present on its roll 68 members, and its funds 
amount to L. 180. A ** Juvenile Friendly Society," having very 
interesting objects in view, was instituted in 1833. It is in a 
flourishing condition ; its funds amount to L. 150, and the present 
number of its members is 232. 



62 EDINBUaOHSHIRE. 

• 

-Poor and Parochial Funds, — Pauperism is ver^ much upon the 
increase in this parish, and the evils resulting from it are griev- 
ously felt. The fine feeling of independence, which so nobly 
distinguished even the poorest of Scotsmen in past years, and 
rendered them the honour and the pride of Britain, is now pas* 
sing fast away, and the demoralising influence, arising from the 
want of this spirit, is creeping as a pestilence over this neigh- 
bourhood. Instead of spuming from them the parish supply, and 
striving to support themselves and their children, by their own 
independent exertions, as their fathers . would have done before 
them, they now court the degrading pittance of parochial aid, and 
olamour as loudly for a place in the poor's roll, as though the 
highest merit lay in such a distinction. There are at present 35 
individuals receiving supply from the parish, the average of whose 
monthly allowance is 4s. There are others to whom occasional 
relief is given. The assessment for the last seven years averages 
L.139. 

Alehotises, — The number of alehouses not only in this but 
neighbouring parishes, calls loudly for an improvement in the pre« 
sent system of licensing such nurseries of licentiousness and de« 
bauchery. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The most striking variations betwixt the present state of the 

parish, and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical 
Account, are to be found in the improvedsystem of agriculture 
now pursued, which, in the hands of a skilful and intelligent 
tenantry, is producing effects highly advantageous to the commu- 
nity, affording a ready supply of labour to the industrious, and 
enhancing the value of the properties, where their capital and skill 
are exerted. 

Auffust 1839. 



PARISH OF NEWBATTLE. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. JOHN THOMSON, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Newbattle or Newbottle, as it is often spelt, has been, 
time immemorial, the name of this parish ; but of its origin I have 
not been able to discover any satisfactory account, and tradition is 
often too vague to be depended on. The parish was once divided 
into two, Newbattle and Maisterton. When they were united is 

uncertain. 

Extent^ 4fc, — Its greatest extent in length is about 4^ miles ; 

and its greatest breadth about 0. Its mean length and breadth 

may be about 4 miles by 2, — hence it contains 8 square miles or 

nearly so. 

Its figure resembles an irregular triangle, of which the east side, 
stretching from Fordale House to Newbyres Tower, is the base. 
The vertical point of the triangle is nearly where it joins the town 
of Dalkeith. It is bounded on the east, by Cranston and Borth- 
wick ; on the south, by Borthwick and Cockpen ; on the west, by 
Lasswade ; and on the north, by Dalkeith. 

From its extremities it rises gradually in every direction, till it 
terminates in a ridge of considerable extent, known by the name 
of the Roman Camp ; the elevation of which, above the sea, is 
680 feet. 

Climate, — The climate varies greatly, considering its extent In 
the vale of Newbattle, it is exceedingly mild ; at the Roman 
Camp, it is very keen. If there is any complaint more prevalent 
than another in this parish it is asthma or consumption, especially 
among the colliers, arising chiefly from the impure air which they 
breathe, and the damp to which they are constantly exposed. In 
the village of Newbattle, however, for the last nineteen years, old 
age has carried off more than any other complaint whatever ; and 
. there are at present several persons from eighty to ninety years of 



64 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

age, some of them still vigorous^ who have resided in it the greater 
part of their lives. 

Geology and Mineralogy .-^CodX mines have been wrought in 
this parish to a very considerable extent on both sides of the hill, 
on the range of the Roman Camp, by means of levels brought up 
from the bed of the Tyne on the south-east side, and from the 
river South Esk on the north-west side ; and they will in future be 
more extensively wrought, in consequence of a direct communica* 
tion having been opened from the field of coal to Edinburgh, by 
means of a railway. The Marquis of Lothian has, at his own ex- 
pense, completed a railway from the mines, one mile and a half in 
length, to Dalhousie Mains, where it forms a junction with the 
Edinburgh Company's Railway. By this mode of conveyance, the 
minerals, coal, limestone, and sandstone, will in future be carried, 
from the mine or quarry to the Depot at St Lebnardst In the 
progress of this operation, a valley of 1200 feet in breadth had to 
be overcome. This has been done by means of a bridge, consist* 
ing of three main arches of cast-iron in the Gothic style, each 65 
feet span, and the one that crosses the river is 70 feet in height at 
the centre of the arch from its bed. The other two are not so high 
above the ground. These arches have stone piers, built from the 
quarries of the proprietor. Besides these, there are eighteen stone 
pillars, ten of which are joined at the top by horizontal iron beams, 
and eight by beams of wood ; the whole the design of Mr John 
Williamson, Newton Grange, the manager of his Lordship's col- 
liery. 

Limestone has been but partially wrought to serve a limited de-* 
mand, by skirting the outbursts or crops, and tirring the superin*^ 
cumbent deposits ; but as these in future will be increased, it is 
the intention of the proprietor to work it under cover, and to a 
much greater depth. The quality of the lime has been generally 
acknowledged to be excellent, and it everywhere abounds in the 
field. 

Sandstone is also in great abundance, and two or three quarries 
ba\e been wrought to a considerable extent, by tirring the surface 
only. One quarry has been wrought many feet below the sur&ce 
without tirring, and the stones drawn up by a horse power along 
an inclined plane. The quality is fit for all ordinary purposes. Dur<- 
ing the progress of the railway the manager wrought it thirty fa- 
thoms under cover,. of excellent quality. 

G«o/o^y.— The geology of the parish cannot be better explain- 



NEWBATTLE. 65 

ed than by stating the breadth of the Mid- Lothian mineral field, 
as resolving itself into two hills or wings ; the one resting north* 
ward on the old red sandstone of the Craigtnillar range ; and 
that again on the secondary rocks of the Salisbury Crag. The 
foot of its base southward, rests at the river South Esk, where the 
other commences, rising upwards to its summit, the Roman camp, 
and descending downwards again to the foot of its base, at the river 
Tyne. Beyond Ford, it will again be found resting on the old red 
sandstone, and that on the greywacke, amygdaloid, and porphyry 
of the Moorfoot range, in which range no granite or primitive 
rocks are found. 

Mineraloffy.'^^The minerals of Newbattle parish comprise about 
one-half of that breadth, viz. firom the river South £sk at New- 
mills, to near the Tyne at Ford ; and the position of this part 
of the mineral field may be represented as a great cone of from ten 
to twelve miles round the base, and whose apex is the Roman 
camp. The base of the hill will everywhere be found to be 
the magnesian limestone, with the coal and its concomitants com- 
pletely encirclmgit; and everywhere burstingor cropping out towards 
its apex, and dipping towards the valleys, at an angle varying from 
15^ to 80^ Rising at such an acute angle, it is generally found 
that the coal concomitants are thrown off before they reach the 
summit of the hill, and the limestone base appears ; and with such 
a sharp dip to the valley at Newmills, the foot of the base, the 
coal and its concomitants, would be 2400 feet, at least, in thick- 
ness, in intersecting which from thirty to forty working seams of 
coal would be cut through, varying from eighteen inches to eight 
feet in thickness. From this it appears that the parish of New- 
battle, for extent of minerals, will be found to equal, if not to surpass, 
any parish in Scotland. The coal concomitants consist of little 
variety, and are an alternation of sandstone, red and white, of dif- 
ferent texture and hardness, grey faikes, or slaty limestone, slate 
clay, sometimes with ironstone bands and balls of undefined tex- 
ture and quality ; indurated clay, &c The dikes, fissures, and 
dislocations are of pretty frequent occurrence, and in some cases 
of formidable dimensions, disjointing the strata up and down, some 
forty, some twelve, some six, and some five fathoms, although, 
upon the whole, it may be said to be a clean field. 

Fossih, — Fossil remains both of plants and animals abound in 
great variety and profusion. The vegetable fossil remains have 

EDINBURGH. E 



66 EDINBUUGHSHIRE. 

always been found in the sandstone. Fishes and marine shells, 
though rarer, have been found in the limestone. 

Calcareous spar is found among the limestone, but neither per- 
fect nor in great abundance. 

A great part of the alluyial deposit may be said to be hard clay, 
varying in depth from six to sixty feet ; a small part is loamy, 
sandyj or peat, and a great proportion, gravel, with rounded blocks, 
in some places at a depth of sixty feet and upwards, and bearing 
indications of having been transported. Marine shells are frequent. 
This depth, however, is only found in the lower ground ; towards 
the hill, the covering is generally thinner. 

Soil — There is a great variety of soil in this parish. In the 
valley which lies in the north-west quarter, and which conceals, 
till a near approach, the church, the village, and the &mily man- 
sion of the Marquis of Lothian, the soil consists of a rich loam, in 
some places four feet deep, and has every appearance of being al- 
luvial. As it lies upon a stratum of sharp gravel, the surface is 
soon dried, and hence the air is more salubrious than might be 
expected from its low position. 

On the north and west sides of the hill, the soil grows worse as 
one ascends from the river towards the camp, shifting from a loam 
to a strong clay, and then to a wet whitish sandy earth, which, 
nevertheless, when properly cultivated, produces average crops. 
On the south-eastern slope of the camp, there was formerly a large 
tract of ground, marshy and barren, but, for several years past, it 
has been drained, and is now not only in a state of cultivation, but 
exceedingly productive. On the south-west declirity, what was a 
few years ago a mere waste, and consequently of little value, is 
now, with the exception of a few acres, either covered with thriv- 
ing plantations, or brought under cultivation. 

Zoology. — In regard to zoology there is nothing peculiar to this 
parish deserving of particular notice. I may, however, mention 
an insect, known here by the name of the American bug, which, 
for some years past, has infested the finer kinds of the apple-trees- 
It makes its appearance in the months of July and August, princi- 
pally upon the branches that had been infected the year before, 
and is found in clusters, covered with a white down, on wall trees, 
betwixt the branches and the wall. This insect is particularly in-' 
jurious to the young shoots. On the places which it infests, there 
soon appears a protuberance, resembling a knot, extremely hard. 
Sometimes the whole inside of the young shoot is covered with 



NEWBATTLE. 67 

this excrescence, and when that is the case, it is good for nothing. 
No specific, as far as I know, has yet been discovered for destroy- 
ing these vermin without injuring the tree ; add unless such dis* 
covery is made, it will ultimately ruin our finest apple-trees. 

Botany. — I am not aware that any of the rarer species of plants 
has ever been been found in this parish. Those used for culinary 
and other purposes, are numerous \ such as cabbages and greens 
of all kinds, cauliflower and colewort, broccoli, turnip, carrot, beet-* 
root, green peas, parsley, celery, cresses, &c. 

We have no forests, but there are many thriving plantations, 
especially upon the Marquis of Lothian's property. The princi- 
pal kinds of wood are oak, ash, elm, beech, plane-tree, and firs of 
various sorts, &c. If we may judge from the size of the^wood, the 
soil is perfectly congenial to all these kinds. In the lawn which 
surrounds Newbattle Abbey, there are many trees of great age and 
remarkable for their size and form. Most of the planes, and some 
of the elms, are majestic and beautiful. But the largest of all is 
a beech, standing near the house, which, at a yard above the ground, 
measures 22 feet in circumference. The length of the trunk, be- 
fore it begins to spread its largest branches, is 24 feet. Some of 
its limbs are of immense size. Its branches cover a circle of 33 
yards diameter, and it contains upwards of 900 cubic feet of 
wood. Strangers from all quarters visit this tree, and they unani- 
mously declare that it is the largest they have seen in Scotland. 

II. — Civil History. 

Eminent Men, — The only man of eminence as a literary charac- 
ter, connected with the parish, with whose history I am acquaint- 
ed, was Bishop Leighton, who was once minister of Newbattle. 
He was inducted into that charge in the year 1648; if tradition 
may be depended upon, part of the pulpit in which he preached is 
still in existence, and in high preservation. 

Land-ottmers. — The land-owners are, the Marquis of Lothian, 
who possesses at least three-fourths of the parish; Mr Dalrymple of 
Fordale ; Mr Dundas of Arniston ; and Mr Ker of Blackshiels. 

Parochial Registers. — Parochial registers have been long kept. 
The minutes of session were begun in 1616 ; the register of bap- 
tisms in 1646 ; of proclamations of marriage in 1650 ; of minutes 
of heritors in 1740; of receipts and disbursements in 1642; of 
registers of burials in 1740. Some of these registers are volumi- 
nous, but irregularly kept ; and many blanks occur in all of them. 

Antiquities. — The only antiquity of which this parish can boast, 



. I 



68 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

is an eminence, already mentioned, and known by the name of the 
Roman Camp. On this eminence, there are evidently the remains 
of an ancient enclosure, supposed to have been a Roman station, 
but at what period is uncertain. Being now crowded with trees 
it cannot be accurately examined. It appears, however, to be of 
"a quadrangular form, and has an opening to the south-east. It 
contains about three acres of ground, and from its lofty position, 
it seems to have been wisely chosen, both as a place of defence 
and of observation. 

Modem Buildings. — Newbattle Abbey, the seat of the Marquis 
of Lothian, is a modern building ; and the plan of it, especially 
within, discovers the taste and judgment of the architect, as it is 
exceedingly commodious. In the library, which is voluminous and 
valuable, are several manuscripts in folio, written upon vellum, and 
every page of them is adorned with pictures, emblematic of the 
respective subjects of which they treat. Of these the most highly 
finished are the following : Jean Boccace des cas des noble Hom- 
ines et F. Fainmes, 1409 : John Tikyt hymni: Titus Livius, per 
P. Berceun : Augustin de la Cit^ de Dieu. 

In all of them, the figures are coloured and gilded with so much 
delicacy and richness, as to afibrd an excellent specimen of the la- 
bour and elegance with which they have been executed. These 
manuscripts had, in former times, belonged to the Abbey, the 
monks of which were of the Cistertian order. It was founded and 
endowed by David I. A copy of the original grant is still in exis- 
tence. A wall surrounded it, which retains the name of the Monk- 
land wall, but it is now far from being entire. The present house 
is built upon the spot which was formerly occupied by the monas- 
tery, and stands surrounded by a level lawn, containing from thirty 
to forty acres of ground. It is watered on the one side by the 
river South Esk, the only river in the parish, which, after descend- 
ing through the rocks of Arniston and Cockpen, flows along the 
park in a quiet stream, and is overhung with flourishing planta- 
tions. On the other side, it is skirted by a waving line of woods, 
which, complying with the ascents and swellings of the banks, are 
seen rising above one another, and exhibit a beautiful variety of 
shades. These woods, nearly meeting at each end, form the lawn 
into a kind of amphitheatre, in the middle of which, as you ap- 
proach from the south, there is an avenue 520 yards long, lined 
on each side with trees of the most majestic size. On this ap- 
proach, where it crosses the village of Newbattle, there stands a 
venerable looking gate, whose antique appearance is greatly admir- 



NEWBATTLE. 60 

ed by every stranger. Below the Abbey there is a bridge upon 
the Esk, rudely built, and overspread with ivy, which has survived 
all accounts of its age and founder. Ranges of trees in the oppo- 
site direction, close, at a proper distance, into vistas ; while the 
eye, in wandering over the beaulies of the scene, is caught by the 
simple spire of the parish church, and by the smoke, which, rising 
from the adjacent village, hovers above the lofty trees. 

It has already been said that the lawn which surrounds the Ab- 
bey contains from thirty to forty acres. This, however, is not to 
be understood as including the whole park. Within the extended 
wall, there are at least 220 acres, divided into fields, and skirted 
either with aged wood or young plantations. 

The only other mansion house in the parish is that of Woodburn, 
belonging to Mr Ker. It is a modern building, standing on a ris- 
ing ground on the east bank of the Esk. There are some fine 
trees around it, and it commands a most beautiful prospect 

There are two mills for corn and one for flour. There is also a 

paper-mill. 

IIL — Population. 
There is no account of the population of this parish, known to 

me, previous to Dr Webster's report in the year 1755. It then 

amounted to 1439 souls. In the year 1779, it consisted of 1670 

souls; and in 1793, there were 606 males, and 689 females, in all 

1295 souls, of whom 1017 were of the Established Church, and 

278 of the Secession. 

At the census taken up under the direction of Parliament 

In 1811, the population was, - - 1651 

1821, 1710 

1831, it was (928 males, and 959 females,) - 1882 

Since 1811, it appears from the above statement, that the po- 
pulation of this parish has been gradually increasing ; and the only 
mode of accounting for it, is the extension of the Marquis of Lo- 
thian's colliery. For years past, there have been many more 
hands employed in it than at any former period. 

The population in the villages, for there are no towns is, - 846 
in the country, - • • - 981 

Yearly average of births for the last seven years, 50, exclusive of Dlasenters. 
of deaths, - - - 39* 

ofmarriages, - - - 16 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age is about, 709 

betwixt 15 and 30, - 510 

aO and 50, - d69 

50 and 70, - 190 

upwards of 70, - - 49 

* The average of deaths cannot be exactly ascertained, as there is no regular re- 
nter of mortality kept. 



70 KDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The only Noble family in the parish is the Marquis of Lothian's; 
Mr Ker of Blackshiels also resides in it. The number of pro- 
prietors has already been mentioned. 

The number of bachelors and widowers upwards of 50 years of age is, - 1i6 

unmarried women upwards of 45, . . ~ 00 

families, - - . - - - 874 

Average number of children in each about, ... .3 

Number of families employed in agriculture, . - - 74 

in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, - 41 

There are no uninhabited houses, nor are there any building. 

Number of insane, 2 ; of fatuous, 2 ; of blind, 2. 

Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 9. 

Habits, 8fc. of the People. — The language spoken is English. 
Habits of the people in general cleanly. Ordinary food of the 
peasantry, tea or porridge to breakfast ; broth and a little meat 
and potatoes or cheese to dinner ; and potatoes or porridge to sup- 
per. The people on the whole enjoy, to a considerable degree, 
the advantages of society, and they seem perfectly contented with 
their situation in life. Their character is of an intellectual cast, 
and they are in general moral and religious. Poaching in game 
does prevail to a certain extent among the lower orders, and only 
among them. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture. — The number of acres, standard imperial measure, 
in the parish under cultivation is 4700. 

With the exception of the ground under wood, there are not 
above 7 or 8 acres that never have been cultivated ; and these be- 
ing chiefly braes, could not with any advantage be brought under 
cultivation. 

There is no undivided common in the parish. The number of 
acres under wood of every description is about 300. The diffe- 
rent kinds of trees have already been enumerated. The manage- 
ment is good in regard to thinning, pruning, and periodical felling ; 
and, from the attention paid to the wood in these respects, a con* 
siderable revenue may be expected in a few years. 

HenU — As the soil in this parish is very different in point of 
quality, so the rents vary in proportion, being from L. 1 to L. 6 
per acre Scotch, The average per imperial acre may be about 
L. 1, 12s. 

The average rent of grazing, at the rate of L. 5 during the 
summer season, for a full-grown ox or cow ; and at the rate of 
15s. per annum for a full-grown sheep, — is about L. 4 per acre. 



NEWBATTLE. - 71 

Wages. — The wages of a farm-labourer for the year are 9s. per 
week ; for a ploughman, 10s. per week ; for country artisans, such 
as smiths and carpenters, 12s. per week; for masons generally a 
little more. 

This being principally a grain parish, there are few sheep or 
cattle kept purposely for breeding stock. The only old grass in 
it are a few parks belonging to the Marquis of Lothian, and these 
are generally let to fleshers for the sole purpose of feeding : Rent 
from L. 3 to L. 5 per acre. The few cows and horses which the 
farmers rear for the use of their families or for agricultural purposes, 
are grazed in parks taken elsewhere. 

The larger farms are from 200 to 450 acres Scotch measure 
in extent. The smaller ones from 20 acres up to 200. 

Husbandry, — The general character of the husbandry is good. 
In regard to rotation of crops it is as follows : On a clay soil, I. 
grass ; 2. oats ; 3. summer fallow or beans ; and 4. wheat with 
grass seeds. On a light soil, 1. grass ; 2. oats ; 3. potatoes or tur- 
nip ; 4. wheat ; and 5. barley, with dung and grass seed. The 
whole parish, with the exception of what is under wood, being 
arable, is mostly kept in tillage ; and as the greater part of it is 
wet clay, draining is much wanted. This, indeed, is one of the 
greatest improvements of which it is susceptible, and it is now be- 
ginning to be adopted.* Were it completely drained and stripes of 
wood judiciously planted for shelter, its value would be encreased, 
and its beauty improved. These, with the advantage of markets 
near at hand, and the great abundance of coal and lime which it 
contains, will render it, under the mangement of a skilful and ac- 
tive tenantry, not less productive than any parish, of equal extent^ 
in the county. 

Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years, which 
seems to be fair a period both for landlord and tenant, when the 
farm is taken in good order ; but when the land is wasted or run 
outy the lease ought to be longer, especially where draining is ne- 
cessary, and is to be performed at the expense of the tenant. 

The iarm steadings in general are of long standing, and some 
of them rather in a state of decay, which is a bar to the keeping 
of stock. The enclosures also, with the exception of those im- 
mediately rqund the Abbey, are incomplete. This is in a great 

* Many plantations arc now being made by the Marquis of Lothian, both iu the 
shape of stripes and clumps, which will answer these purposes. 



72 EDINBUBUHSHIRE. 

measure owing to the manner in which the coal has hitherto 
been wrought There are coal-pits, and consequently roads lead« 
ing to them, in almost every field, which renders it next to impos- 
sible to keep the fences in good order. For the same reason, the 
parish roads are far from being good* They are much cut up 
with coal- carts, and stand in need of a thorough repair. These 
are all obstacle? to improvement; and, unless they are re- 
moved, it is hardly to be expected that improvements can be car- 
ried to any great extent One of them, however, the writer is 
happy to observe, is soon to be obviated. The roads are to under- 
go a complete repair ; and, as the coal-carts in future will in a great 
measure be taken off them by means of the rail-road, and as a 
sufficient sum is levied annually by assessment on the tenants for 
their support, there will no longer exist any cause of complaint on 
this score. The repairs, indeed, are already begun. 

The greatest improvement which has recently taken place is 
the bridge already described, which carries the railway over the 
valley of the South Esk at Dalhousie Mains. It was erected at the 
sole expense of the Marquis of Lothian, and is a great ornament 
to the neighbouring scenery, as it mixes the grand with the beau- 
tiful. 

Though the tenantry in this parish are highly respectable, and 
comparatively in a flourishing condition, their rents, especially upon 
the Marquis's property, being in general moderate, yet it must 
not be denied that a larger capital would in some instances be 
extremely advantageous, as it would enable them to extend their 
improvements in the way of draining, &c. which in a clay soil would 
amply repay them by the surplus crops which it would produce. 

Prodfuce.— The average gross amount of raw produce raised 
annually in the parish is nearly as follows : 

Produce of grain of all kinds, cuUitated for the food of man and of 

domestic animals, . . L. 17>212 10 

potatoes, turnips, cabbage, &c. . 4,000 

^ hay of every doeription, .... 2,^00 

pasture grass, rating as previously mentioped, 3,600 

There are annually about 575 acres Scotch of suanner fallow in the 

parish. 

Produce of gardens and orchards about, . 405 

coals and quarries, . . 1,600 

Yearly value of produce raised, L. 29,317 10 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-'Towny S^c. — There is no market-town, nor other towns 



NfiWBATTLE. 73 

ID the parish. Dalkeith is in the immediate vicinity ; and Edin- 
burgh at six miles distance. 

There are 4 villages in the parish, some of them but small. 
Means of communication are turnpikes and private or parish roads. 
Length of the former within the parish is about twelve miles. 
Public carriages of all kinds travel on them. 

There is no post-office within its limits ; but those of Dalkeith, 
Fushie Bridge, and Ford, are all immediately upon its borders. 
There are four bridges upon the South Esk besides the railway, all 
in excellent condition. . The only rail-road in the parish has al- 
ready been mentioned ; and the purpose for which it was intended 
described. It was finished a few years ago. 

Ecdesioitical State, — The church is situated in the village of 
Newbattle, which, being nearly at the western extremity of the pa- 
rish, renders it inconvenient for those in the opposite parts ; as 
some of them have to travel nearly three miles and a>half before 
they reach it It was built in 1727, and is in a tolerable good 
state of repair. It has a spire about 70 feet high. It affords ac- 
commodation for about 420 persons. In regard to the sittings, 
they may all be said to be free, for none pay rent for their seats. 

The manse, as it now stands, has been built at different times. 
There is still a part of the old manse remaining, but the time when 
it was built is uncertain. The new part or front was erected dur- 
ing the incumbency of the Rev. James Brown. It was completely 
repaired in 181 d. The glebe consists of 6 Scotch acres of ex- 
cellent ground, independent of the manse and garden. It is let 
for led, 10s. per acre, which is a fair rent. The stipend consists of 77 
bolls 2 firlots i ,\ pecks of barley ; 77 bolls 2 firlots 1 { ^ pecks of 
oats ; and 19 bolls, 3^ pecks of wheat. There is also L. 20, 13s. 
3|d. of money. The teinds are exhausted. 

In this parish there are no Dissenting houses or chapels of any 
description whatever. 

The number of persons of all ages belonging to, and attending, 
the Established Church, is 1562, and those belonging to the Se-» 
cession anK)unt to about 265. The parish church is generally 
well attended, although it must be acknowledged, and is deeply to 
be lamented, that there are some in the lower ranks, especially 
among the colliers, lately brought to the parish, who pay little re- 
gard to public worship of any kind. 

The average number of communicants at the Established Church 
is about 310. 



74 EDINBURGHSHIUE. 

There are collections at the church door for charitable and re- 
ligious purposes, annually. They have anotounted, during the in- 
cumbency of the present minister, from L.5 to L.d8. 

Education* — There are two principal schools in the parish, the 
parochial, and one endowed. In the endowed school are taught 
English, arithmetic, writing, book-keeping, and grammar. In the 
parochial school are taught the same branches, with the addition of 
Latin, Greek, geometry, and the use of the globes. The paro- 
chial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and all the other legal 
accommodations. The school fees may amount to from L. 15 to 
L. 20 annually. The endowed school has attached to it a school- 
house and garden, with a salary of L. 1 5 per annum, paid solely 
by the Marquis of Lothian, who built the school at his own ex- 
pense. The school fees amount to about L. 40 yearly. There 
are three minor schools unendowed. Children here in general do 
not begin writing till they are seven or eight years of agef. From 
thai to fifteen I know of no niales that cannot write. Above fifteen 
years of age, there are no males, to the best of my belief, and but 
few females, who have not been taught writing. I know there are 
some, but the exact numbers I cannot precisely state. The people 
in general are exceedingly alive to the benefits of education ; and 
they make evei^ exertion to procure them for their children. 
There are no parts of this parish so distant as to prevent attend- 
ance on one or other of the schools. Besides, there are schools in 
the neighbouring parishes, close upon its boundaries, to which those 
in the remote corners have easy access. Since the facilities of 
education became so great, the people, upon the whole, have visi- 
bly improved in knowledge, and in their moral conduct, although 
further improvement in regard to sobriety among the lower ranks 
is much to be desired. 

Literature. — There is on a small scale, a parochial or circulat- 
ing library in the parish, lately established. 

Friendly Societies, — There are one or two Friendly Societies, 
one among the carters, and another among the colliers. They 
have been in existence for a considerable time, and their object is 
to relieve their members when in distress. But though the object 
is good, I am somewhat doubtful as to their advantages ; for I do 
not perceive that the members of these societies are more indus- 
trious, or more desirous of independence, than others. On the 
contrary, I am afraid that, with regard to some, instead of promot- 
ing industry, they tend to encourage inactivity and a neglect of 



NEWBATTLE. 75 

economy) by holding out the prospect of support, to a certain de- 
greoy when they become sick or infirm. 

Saving Bank. — A few years ago we had a saving bank, which 
succeeded very well for a short time, and considerable sums were 
lodged in it. The principal contributors were the members of two 
youth^s societies in the parish, tradesmen, and servants both male 
and female. But the members, taking alarm at some enactments 
that were made by the Legislature concerning saving banks, broke 
it up. Since that time there does not appear any desire among 
the people to have another established. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons 
upon the poor's roll for the last seven years, is 39. They re- 
ceive annually from L. 2 to L. 4, 10s. each, according to their se- 
veral circumstances. Besides these, there are many that receive 
occasional relief, whose poverty is not so great as to render it ne* 
cessary to put them on the roll. The annual amount of con- 
tributions for their relief, arising from church collections, mort- 
cloths, &c is from L. 31 to L.34' The only other fund for the 
relief of the poor is an assessment of L. 110 annually, which is laid 
on and levied, in equal parts, twice a-year. It is matter of deep 
regret that there is no disposition among the poor to refrain from 
asking parochial relief, and so far are they from considering it as 
degrading, that they claim it as a legal right 

Ale-houses. — There are five public, or rather dram-houses in the 
parish ; and their effects upon the lower orders of society are of the 
most demoralizing nature. There were lately more, but they were 
fortunately suppressed, and the writer of this is most anxious to 
have them still farther reduced. 

FueL — Coal is the only fuel, of which there is great abundance 
in the parish ; price at the pit from 6s. to 9s. per ton, according to 
the quality. 

S^tember 1839. 



PARISH OF RATHO. 

PRESBlTTERr OF EDINBURGH) SYNOD OFLOTHIAN AND TWEEDDilLE. 

THE REV. JAMES GLASON, A. M. MINISTER. 



L— Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The parish of Ratho is so called, according to Chalmers 

in his Caledonia, from the ancient baronial residence of that name, 
which was within its bounds. According to the same authority, 
the name is of British origin, being derived from the word Bhath^ 
plural RathaUf* signifying a cleared spot, a bared place or plain ; 
which derivation, although not consistent with the features of the 
parish as a whole, is yet in accordance with that part of it upon 
which the present mansion, like its predecessor, stands. It may 
be farther remarked, that the Celtic Eath^ which has the same pri- 
mary meaning with the British term already mentioned, signifies 
secondarily, a fort or artificial mount ; so that possibly the name of 
Ratho may have been conferred upon the place, not more on ac- 
count of its natural situation than the artificial works by which it 
was defended. 

Extent^ Boundarie^f Sfc* — This parish is 4 miles long by 2^ 
broad at an average ; and contains about 10 square miles of sur- 
face. It is bounded on the north, by the parishes of Kirkliston 
and Corstorphine ; on the east, by Corstorphine and Currie ; on 
the south, by Currie ; and on the west, by Kirknewton and Kirk- 
liston. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of the parish 
fs one of considerable beauty from the delightful mixture of hill 
and dale, of highly cultivated fields and thriving plantations. 
From the eastern boundary to the centre the ground is of a 
slightly undulating character, but rather flat than otherwise. On 
the west side, there runs from north to south-west, for about 

■ 

* In ancient charters) the name of the parish is written in the different forms of 
Ratbew, Ratheu, Rathov. On two communion cups, which bear the date 1084, it 
is spelt Rutha and Rotha. The orthography is the same as at present on other two 
church utensils, which bear date only a year later. 



RaTHO. 



77 



a couple of miles, a ridge^ or rather a succession of eminences 
of table-land) crowned with stripes and clumps of trees, which 
add very much to the beauty of the scene. From the whole 
of this ridge^ which averages from 300 to 400 feet in height^ 
the view is extensive and highly picturesque.* We believe there 
are few spots in Scotland where such a prospect can be obtained 
with so little exertion. From the South Piatt Hill, which is a few 
minutes walk from the manse, there is a distinct view of portions 
of at least ten different counties ; some say of no fewer than four- 
teen. The Pentlands circumscribe the prospect to the south, but 
from the east round to the south-west, the eye ranges over the cul- 
tivated plains of the Lothians, the Frith of Forth with the adja- 
cent coasts of Berwick and Fife, the counties of Kinross, Clack- 
mannan, Lanark, and Stirling, and the giant rampart of the 
Grampians from Benvoirlich to Benlomond. In a clear state of 
the atmosphere, the view to the west is truly grand ; but on an or- 
dinary day, the immediate view of the surrounding parishes, and 
particularly of Edinburgh with its environs, will well repay the slight 
labour of ascent to one who possesses the smallest taste for the 
beautiful in nature. 

From the Calder road, to which this ridge descends, the land 
again rises with a gradual ascent, till it reaches its greatest altitude 
in the two rocky eminences called the Dalmahoy and Kaimes hills. 
These two insulated hills, it may remarked, rising from the east, 
terminate abruptly to the west in the manner of Salisbury Crags, 
and the similar eminences with which Stirling and its neighbour- 
hood abounds, as if at a distant period they had been washed by 
some great western tide. 

* The following is a statement of the altitude of differeut parts of the parish, as as- 
certained by actual survey. 'It is eopied from a map of the pariah executed by J. 
Andersoni £sq. 



Above 
level of 
the 



Above Below 
Union Union 
Canal. Canal. 



Feet. 
Union Canal, 232 

Bonnington House, 41 2 
Burnwynd, 906 

Dalmahoy House» 837 
Hatton House* 335 
Hillwood, 318 

Afilbum Tower, 155 
Norton HaU, 341 

North Piatt Hill, 356 
South PUtt Hill, 380 

Climaie. — Situated 



Feet. Feet. 




180 

74 

105 

103 

86 



109 

124 

148 









77 






Above Above Below 
level of Union Union 
the sea. CaiiaL Canal. 



Ratho village, 
middle of, 
Ratho Kirk, 
Ratho House, 
Ratho Manse* 
Ashley, 
Tormain Hill, 
Dalmahov Hill, 
Kaimes Hill, 



Feet. 

274 

225 
248 
244 
199 
474 
660 
680 



Feet. 
42 


16 
12 


242 







Feet. 




7 


33 






The last two are taken from the Caledonia. 



in the centre of the extensive valley which 



78 EDINBURGHSHIUE. 

lies between the Pentland range and the high lands that skirt the 
Forth, this parish is particularly exposed to currents of wind from 
the east and west. The east wind prevails chiefly during the spring 
months, but is experienced at intervals throughout the year, bring- 
ing along with it occasionally a thick haar, which is very pre- 
judicial to the invalid. The west wind prevails more during the 
summer and autumn. It is perhaps the most constant, certainly 
the most violent wind we have, as appears from the fact, that the 
branches of the trees invariably incline to the east. Our heavi* 
est rains are from the south-east; our most frequent rains fall 
when the wind is between the west and south, which brings the 
clouds into contact with the Pentland ridge, whence they descend 
in showers over the neighbouring parishes. 

The free circulation of air that the parish enjoys, is one cause 
which undoubtedly operates strongly, in conjunction with the ele- 
vation of a considerable portion of it, in producing a pure and heal- 
thy temperature of the atmosphere. In proof of the natural 
healthiness of the climate, it may be remarked, as a traditional no- 
tice, that when the plague prevailed in Scotland, Ratho was ex- 
empted from its ravages. And at a later period, when many of the 
neighbouring parishes were visited with cholera, only one case, if 
indeed it was one, occurred in this village. Some thirty years ago, 
intermittent fevers were not uncommon ; but, with the system of 
draining, to which the land generally has been subjected, these 
have totally disappeared ; and there is now no indigenous disease 
in the district ; nor is it, so far as we are aware, peculiarly liable to 
any epidemic An intelligent medical practitioner in the parish, 
informs us that, if there are any diseases of particular frequency, 
they are of the glandular kind, and occur chiefly among the poorer 
classes ; but the number of these, from the improved state of the 
village, is on the decline. 

Hydrography* — There are few parishes so destitute of streams 
as that of Ratho. There is only one, the Gogar Burn, and that of 
small dimensions, which flows through it, forming a continuous 
line of demarcation between this and the parishes' to the east. 
There are, besides, few if any open springs ; the inhabitants for the 
most part being obliged to sink wells for their supply. Water, 
however, is easily found by digging to the depth of ten or twelve feet ; 
and when discovered, commonly contains a quantity of lime in so- 
lution. In Addiston grounds, there is one fountain of a slightly 
petrifying quality. The Union Canal is the only body of water 



RATHO. 79 

of any magnitude. Its course through the parish is about three 
miles io length. It cannot be said, however, that it adds at all 
to the beauty of the landscape ; nor with its muddy waters is it very 
suitable for domestic purposes. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — Tlie ridge of high land which we 
have already described as traversing the west of the parish, as also 
the Dalmahoy and Kaimes Hills, abound in trap (whin) rock 
of the common formation. The stone of the former is of a tough 
adhesive nature, capable of being cut out in blocks of any size, and 
wrought into any form ; that of the latter is much more brittle, 
and consequently unfit, except for the common purpose of road- 
making. The trap of the Piatt and Norton hills, forms one ex- 
tensive horizontal compact bed ; that of the other eminences ap- 
proaches much nearer to the columnar structure. 

A bed of sandstone dips under the trap formation of the Dal- 
mahoy hill at an angle of about 25^ One of clay, or, as it is po- 
pularly called, of calmstone, has been wrought upon the Ratho 
Hall property, but owing to its position, and its distance from the 
place where the trap formation is discoverable, it is difficult to say 
which of them is uppermost, or, indeed, if they are at all connect- 
ed. We are not aware that any minerals or deposits have hither- 
to been discovered in any of the rocks of which mentipn has been 
made. 

Coal, according to the report of some of the older people, was 
discovered long ago at Bennington head ; but the pit falling in 
shortly after the discovery, the existing proprietor was unable to 
prosecute the experiment, and the mining operations have not 
been resumed by any subsequent landholder. Experiments were 
also made at a remote period in the Dalmahoy grounds for the 
discovery of this precious mineral, but these, probably from want 
of perseverance, proved unsuccessful. In the Earl of Morton's 
deer park, several stones are still to be seen standing with the in- 
scription : ^' Bored for coal )8 fethoms, and hone found." 

SoiL — There is a variety of soil in the parish. A portion of 
it is clay loam upon a retentive bottom, which produces good grain 
of all descriptions, and is particularly adapted for wheat. A few 
patches here and there of the very lowest land consist of black moss. 
The greatest proportion of the land, however, is a rich dry soft loam, 
resting in the more elevated situations upon whin or claystone, and 
in the less elevated places upon gravel or sand. The whole of 
this land is well calculated for the production of potatoes and tur- 



80 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

# 

nips9'which are raised to a considerable eitent»-— the potatoes be- 
ing sent to the Edinburgh market, and the turnips consumed with 
cattle in the farm-yard during winter. 

Zoology. — The game, which is not very abundant, except in the 
Dalmahoy preserves, consists of hares, partridges, pheasants, rab- 
bits,' and a very small proportion of grouse and black game on the 
south* Foxes are not uncommon, there being a considerable 
quantity of cover about Norton and Dalmahoy Hill, which form 
occasionally places of rendezvous for the Edinburgh lovers of the 
chase. The Gogar Burn contains some good trout. The Canal 
abounds in eels and perches. No angler needs come here in the 
expectation of good sport. 

Botany. — There is no natural wQod in the parish, butaconside* 
rable quantity has been planted for the sake of shelter or ornament 
in distant or later times. All the gentlemen's seats in the neigh- 
bourhood are adorned in this way with a considerable extent of 
plantation. That about Milburn is perhaps the largest of very 
modern growth. The greatest extent of wood, however, and of 
the greatest maturity, is that which beauti6es the residence of the 
Earl of Morton. Trees, to the amount of many thousand pounds 
in value, were cut in the pleasure grounds before the accession of 
the present ;iobleman, but, notwithstanding, the woods still present 
to the eye of the spectator an outline of very dense and luxuriant 
foliage. Every variety of the common species of trees is to be 
found here and in other parts of the parish, as beech, t>ak, plane, 
ash, elm, lime, and fir. The trees, however, of which there is the 
greatest abundance, and which seem, from the luxuriance of their 
vegetation, to be best adapted to the soil, are beech and elm. 
Around Hatton there was at one time a very large quantity 
of old timber, but it is now, for the most part, destroyed, much to 
the disadvantage of the stately edifice which reposed in its shade. 
A few very fine specimens of the cedar of Lebanon, of ordinary 
dimensions, but healthy and vigorous, are to be seen at Ratho 
House. Perhaps some of the finest trees now standing in the 
parish, and consisting of planes, elms, and ashes, are those which 
surround the church and burying-ground, imparting to the resting* 
place of the dead a solemn gloom, not unsuitable to serious feeU 

The following is a list of rare botanical plants found by David 
Falconer, Esq. of Carlowrie, in Dalmahoy Moss, near the old 



IIATHO. 81 

toll-bar of Ravelrig :•— 1. Corcdorrhiza irmata^ spurless coral root, 
(Smith's English Botany, Vol. xxii. pL 1547). This plant was 
first described by Lightfoot, in his Flora Scottica, p. dLS, pi. 23, 
as growing only in one place, in a moist hanging wood ^^ on the 
south side near the head of Little Loch* Broom, on the western 
coast of Ross*shire." It has since been found in Methven Wood, 
six miles from Perth, and on the lands of Barry, near Dundee. 
It grows also under the shade of willows in the said moss. 2. Lis- 
tera cordata^ heart-leaved tway blade, (Eng. Bot. Vol. v. pi. 358.) 
3. Hahenaria viridis^ frog habenaria, ( Vol. ii. pi. 94.) 4. Utricular ia 
minor ^ lesser hooded milfoil, (Vol. iv. pi. 254.) 5. Salix repens^ 
creeping willow, (Vol. iii. p. 183.) 6. & fusca^ dwarf silky willow, 
(Vol. xxviii. pi. 1960.) 7. S. cinerea^ grey willow, (Vol. xxvii. pi. 
1897.) 8. Drosera rotundifolia, round-leaved sundew, (Vol. xiii. 
pi. 867.) The botanist will regret, while the agriculturist views 
with pleasure, the draining of the bog, where these productions are 
found, which is now in progress. A very valuable collection of 
exotics was made by the late Sir Robert Listen, which, since his 
death, has been dispersed. 

II. — Civil. History. 
Barony ofRatho. — There is no authentic notice to be found of 

the Barons or Barony of Ratho earlier than the beginning of the 
fourteenth century. It is not improbable that this was one of the 
many forfeited estates which fell into the hands of the Crown dur- 
ing the wars carried on by the different competitors for the Scot- 
tish throne, upon the death of Alexander III. For, in 1315, the 
Barony of Ratho, with other estates, was granted by Robert I. to 
the Steward of Scotland, upon his marriage with Robert's daugh- 
ter, Margery, by whom the sovereignty of this country eventually 
devolved upon the Stewart family. On tbe accession of Robert 
IL in 1371, the same barony, with its pertinents and other estates, 
were settled on the King's eldest son, as the Prince and Stewart 
of Scotland ;* and the whole estates of the Stewarts were formed 
in 1404 into a principality, with regal jurisdiction. In the middle 
of the seventeenth century, this property appears to have been in 
the possession of a Lord CoUington, as it is specially mentioned 
in the report of a commission appointed by Charles II. to take ac- 
count of the losses sustained by him during the usurpation of Crom- 
well. In 1563, Ratho estate became by purchase the property of 
Mr Alexander Fowlis, in whose favour a charter and new gift were 

• See Chalmers's Caledonia. 
EDINBURGH. F 



82 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

granted by the King as superior, with the customary legal minute'- 
ness. It is as follows : '^ Of all and sundries, the lands of Ratho^ 
with the pertinents thereof, comprehending all and haill the 
thirty*six oxengate of the town and lands of Ratho, with the man- 
sion, tower, fortalice, manor- place, houses, biggings, yards, orchards, 
doucats, loch, and meadow thereof, called Ratho Myre, lying within 
the parish of Ratho and sheriffdom of Edinburgh, and by annexation 
within the barony and sheriffdom of Renfrew, united and erect>- 
ed into a haill and free barony, called the barony of Ratho, to be 
holden of his Majesty." This property continued in the family 
of Fowlis till 1778, when Mr Archibald Christie succeeded as heir 
to Alexander Fowlis. In 1786, it was purchased by Thomas 
Macnight Crawford of Belleville, in North Carolina; and in 1818^ 
it became the possession of A. Bonar, Esq. in whose family it still 
remains. 

Hatton, — Of the Hatton property, which, till within these fifty 
years, comprehended in value and extent nearly a half of the pa- 
rish, the following particulars* have been ascertained. 

It was purchased by Allan de Lawdref or Lawder from John of 
Hatton in 1377, which purchase was ratified by the King, as Ba- 
ron of Ratho, and superior thereof. The said Allan farther added 

*.See Inventory of the Lauderdale Titles in possession of Messrs Gibson- Craigs, 
Wardlaw, and Dalziel. 

f Allan de Lawdre acted as Justiciary* Clerk on the south side of the vater of 
l^orth, for which he received from Robert the Bruce, 1309, an annual grant of L. 10 
-Scots. The Lauders appear to have possessed extensive estates in Peebles and Ber- 
wickshire, and to have been a family of very considerable eminence in the Scottish 
nation. Hugh, Earl of Rosse, and Robert de Lawdre, Justiciary of Lothian, acted 
in 1928 as ambassadors from the court of Scotland to that of England, to arrange a 
marriage between David II. and Johanna, sister to Edward III. — ^(See Index of Qiar- 
ters, 1909.)— Alexander Lauder, rector of Ratho, son of Sir Allan, was promoted to 
the See of Dunkeld, in 1440, and dying the same year, was interred in the church of 
Lauder with his ancestors. 

William Lauder, another son of Sir Allan, was first Archdeacon of Lothian and 
Bishop of Glasgow, 1408. Murdo, Duke of Albany, the R^ent, made him Chan* 
oellor in 1423. In the same year, he was nominated first commissioner for treating 
about the redemption of James L He continued to hold the offices of Bishop and 
Chancellor till his death in 1425. This Bishop laid the foundation of the vestry of 
the Cathedral church of Glasgow, and built the steeple as far as the first battlement, 
where the arms of Lauder of Hatton are still to be seen cut in several places.-*(See 
Keith's Scottish Bishops.) 

At a later period in the wars with England, the Lauders seem to have taken an 
active part ; as among other old papers of the Lauderdale family is one containing a 
gift from Jamea T. to William de Lawdre of Hattoun ( Hatton) ** of the relief of all 
bis lands lying in the shires of Edin, Berwick, and Peebles, and that gratis, for good 
done, or to be done, the said Sir George, bis father, and Sir Richard Lauder of 
Blyth, and James Lauder, his uncles, with most of their friends having been slain at 
the battle of Flodden Field, under the banner of James IV.'* The date of this is 19th 
July 1525. The same papers also mention a license granted to the said William lou- 
der to fortify his house at Hatton, and to appoint porters and other officers thereat," 
no doubt as a preparation for an expected incursion of the English consequent upon 
their victory. 



RATHO. 83 

to the estate of Hatton proper, at successive times, the properties 
of Norton,* Platts, Westhallf , Priestlands, and Northraw of Ra- 
tho. To these poafiessions Overgogar was added by the marriage 
of one of the Lauder family to Annabel Ballenden, the heiress of 
that property, in 1610. The whole of these lands came into the 
possession of the Lauderdale family by the marriage of Charles 
Maitland, third son of John Earl of Lauderdale, to Elizabeth, the 
second daughter of Mr Richard Lauder in 1653, and continued in 
that family till 1792, when the property was sold, and shortly af- 
ter was parcelled out into the original elements, of which it con- 
sisted, when it was consolidated by the purchases of Allan de 
Lawdre. 

Dalmahoy.'^The estate of Dalmahoy, which contains at present 
between a third and fourth part of the land in the parish, belonged 
anciently to the Dalmahoys of that Ilk ; the first of whom mention** 
ed in the Baronetage of Scotland, is Henry de Dalmahoy, who 
lived in the time of Alexander IIL, and was, in 1296, obliged to 
submit to Edward I. It continued, it is presumed, in their pos- 
session till the middle of the seventeenth century, when it came 
into the hands of the Dalrymples, and was purchased from them 
by James Earl of Morton, about ninety years ago. Since that 
time, it has formed part of the estates of the Earls of Morton. 

Bennington. — The proprietor of the lands of Bennington, or, 
as it was anciently called, Bondyngton, of whom mention is first 
made, is Robert de Erskine:^. A charter was granted him of L.20 
Sterling from the annual rent of the lands of Cadyon, near Ha- 
milton, in excambion for Bennington. This seems to have been 
done with a view to reward the military services of Hugh de Eglin- 
ton, as a charter was given him immediately thereafter of the said 
lands, with four merks and eight shillings from the lands of West- 
hall in the Barony of Ratho. In the middle of the seventeenth cen- 
tury, the said lands were the property of Lord CoUington. They 
have since been successively the property of families of the names 
of Durham, Cunningham, and Wilkie. 

Ashley. — This estate comprehends the following lands : — L 

* The half of Norton was disponed to Sir Allan by Hugh, Earl of Eglinton, with 
reaerration to him of ita thiilage to bis mill of Radio, and giving to Sir Allan and 
his heirs, multure free at that mill, except the payment of a fiat of meaL 

f Westhall, including a part of Craigpark and Ratho estate, was disponed by 
Thomas Cripmy of Srotstoun, in the barony of Abercorn, in 1375, to be bolden 
blench of the granter for payment of a siWer penny at the kirk of Ratho, in the time 
of high mass. 

X See Records of Ancient Charters. 



84 EDINBURGHSHIUE. 

Those formerly known by the name of Ratho Bank, consist- 
ing of three parts of the Abthan of Ratho, which at one time, 
belonged to Sir James Fleming of Ratho Byres, and another part 
of the said Abthan of Ratho, all lying within the barony of Kirk- 
liston, regality of St Andrews, and sheriffdom of Fife, which whole 
lands subsequently belonged to Sir W. A. Cunningham of Living- 
ston, Bart., and were by him disposed in 1779 to George Reid, Esq. 
of Balertio, which was succeeded by his grandson, G. Reid, Esq. 
by whom, in 1819, they were disponed to the late George Veitch, 
W. S. from whose trustees they were, in 1829, purchased by the 
present proprietor. 2. The lands of Mary lands, which originally 
formed part of the estate of Ratho. 3. The remaining portion of 
the estate of Ratho, lying on the north side of the Edinburgh and 
Glasgow Union Canal, and extending from Marylands to the pa- 
rish church, was lately added by Mr Brown. 

These lands, now comprehended in the estate of Ashley, extend 
to upwards of 250 acres, of which about ten acres are laid out in 
ornamental grounds and plantations, • 

Ratho Byres. — -This designation included anciently part of the 
property of Ashley, as well as the land which at present goes by 
the name of Ratho Byres. The oldest family at present holding 
property in the parish is that of the Wilkies of Ratho Byres ; this 
property having been in their possession for several centuries. The 
other families are comparatively of very modern standing in the 
parish. 

Old Booksy Paintings J §T. — In possession of the Earl of Morton 
is the Bible of his ancestor, the Regent, supposed to be one of the 
few copies now existing, if not the only complete one, of the ori- 
ginal Scotch Parliamentary Bible^ It is a folio volume, printed 
in a clear and beautiful type for the age, and is, like most old 
Bibles, illustrated by coarse plates, representative of the different 
subjects of Scripture history. It bears upon the title-page to have 
been printed at Edinburgh, by order of James VL in 1579, 

Adorning the same nobleman's residence are original paintings 

of the Regent Morton and Mary Queen of Scots. It deserves to 

be mentioned, as a matter of interest, that the likeness of the 

Queen is understood in the family to have been executed during 

her confinement in Lochleven Castle, for George Douglas, who 

assisted her escape. 

A few years ago, during the operations consequent upon the 

partial draining of Lochleven, a bunch of keys were discovered, 

3 



RATUO. 85 

which, from the evident antiquity of their workomnsbip, and 
from their being found in the track by which Queen Mary's es- 
cape was effected, were not unnaturally conjectured to be those 
recorded to have been thrown into the loch by her deliverer on 
that occasion. They were shortly after their discovery presented 
to the late Earl of Morton, and are now in possession of the pre* 
sent Lord, the representative of the chivalrous George Douglas. 
They are five in number, and held together by a small iron chain. 
As might be expected, they are considerably corroded by the ope* 
ration of the water during three centuries ; but from the care with 
which they are now preserved, they may last till Lochleven Castle 
becomes again the scene of a similar story.* 

Besides many original letters of great antiquity, and curious 
from the royal and noble signatures appended to them, there is 
extant among this nobleman's papers the original warrant for the 
confinement of the Queen in Lochleven Castle, signed by the 
Lords Atholl, Morton, Glencarne, Marr, J. Graham, Alex. L. 
Hume, Sanquhar, Semple, and Ochiltree. The signatures are in 
two columns, with four names in each, and from the manner in 
which the signatures are affixed, it is difficult to say whether 
Atholl or Morton had taken the lead in a matter that involved so 
great an amount of danger and responsibility. There is also in the 
same repositories an original letter from our great Reformer, John 
Knox, to the Lord of Lochleven, dated 31 st March 1570. As 
both of these documents, however, have been printed by the Banna- 
tyne Club, it is superfluous here to insert them. 

Eminent Men. — Among these we deem a place due in this Statis- 
tical Account to Joseph Mitchell, '^ the Poet of Ratho," who was 
born in this parish about the year 1684. His father was ^ mason, 
and, though in humble circumstances, with a laudable ambition not 
uncommon among the peasantry of Scotland, managed to give his 
son a university education. This was done probably with a view 
to the church, as appears from some allusions in his writings. 
The course of theological study, however, if actually commenced, 
was soon dropt, and Mitchell went to London for the purpose of 
pushing his fortune. Here he became acquainted (probably 
through the influence of Lords Lauderdale and Stair, as much as 
of his abilities,) with most of the literary characters of his day, and, 
among other distinguished persons, with Sir R. Walpole, who ap- 
pears to have given him his most cordial support ever after. Like 

* See New Sutistical Aooount, Kinross^shire, p. IS. 



86 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

most poets he was poor, and often in a state of extreme indigence, 
occasioned by his imprudence and extravagance. After a course 
marked by vicissitude, he died on the 6th of July 1738. - 

Besides several dramas published in his name, he printed by 
subscription, in 1724, two large octavo volumes of miscellaneous 
poetry. They embrace a variety of subjects, most of which are 
treated in the humorous strain, and display considerable abilities, 
though not by any means of the highest order. Not a few of them 
are representations of the poet's necessities, and are indeed peti- 
tions to the Minister of State for a place, if not for a pension. 
One of them is a petition addressed to the King, setting forth 
with considerable humour the former splendour of Ratho, with its 
present state of insignificance and decay, and soliciting the royal 
assistance to raise it to its former ideal dignity. The following 
lines, descriptive of the desolation of Ratho, may be interesting 
to the parishioners, as a specimen of the poem : 

^' Of aneieut Ratho, reared with cost and pain. 
How few and wretched monuments remain ! 
Sometimes the plough from fields adjacent tears 
The Umba of men, and armour, broke with years ; 
Sometimes a medal, aU efibced, is found, 
And mouldering urns are gathered from the ground. 
But who, ah \ who can decent honours pay> 
Or separate vulgar from imperial clay ? 
Destroying time and the devouring grave, 
Alike confound the coward and the brave 1 
Distinction's lost ! no marks of state adorn \ 
And Ratho looks like Troy a field of corn.* 

The poet in prospect sees the place of his nativity restored, and 
although his wishes have not all been gratified, nor his prophetic 
anticipations realized, the two familiar lines with which he concludes 
one of his visions are not now inapplicable. 

'* Bridges and boats for pleasure crown the scene. 
And ne*er was Ratho known so sweet and clean. 

Wmiam Wilkie.—0{ William Wilkie, «* the Scottish Homer,*' 
for some time minister of Ratho, a memoir has been written, with 
a criticism upon his works, by Dr Robert Anderson, and is en- 
grossed in his edition of the British Poets. From this authority, 
it appears that Wilkie, who was a descendant of the family of 
Ratho Byres, was born on the 5th of October 1721, at Ecklin, a 
farm in the parish of Dalmeny, which was rented by his &ther. 
Discovering at an early age, a taste for literature and for poetry in 
particular, he was sent to the University of Edinburgh, where he 
distinguished himself in the various departments of study, and be- 
came acquainted with many of those who afterwards filled a pro* 



RATHO. 87 

minent place in the literature of their country* Here he number- 
ed among his associates Principal Robertson, Mr John Home, Dr 
Smith, Dr Ferguson, and Mr Hume. While prosecuting his 
studies, his father died, leaving him the stock and unexpired lease 
of a farm at the Fisher's Tryste, and the care of three sisters. 
This event did not paralyse the energies of his mind, nor divert 
the current of his inclinations ; but he continued simultaneously 
the practice of agriculture and the pursuit of philosophical and 
theological knowledge. In 1752, he became connected with this 
parish, being appointed by the Earl of Lauderdale, assistant and 
successor to Mr Guthrie, the minister of Ratbo, who, from age and 
infirmity, had become incapable of discharging his public func- 
tions. Here he remained till 1761, when he was translated to 
the Professorship of Moral Philosophy in the University of St 
Andrews. He died in 1772, at the age of fifty*one years. 

He was a man of strong and original powers of mind, and of 
extensive acquirements in general knowledge, the fruit of long and 
vigorous application. He shone particularly in conversation, as 
appears from the character given of him by Dr Robertson : ^^ It 
seems agreed on all hands," says he, *^ that no man was equal to 
him in conversation and argument. I have heard Dr Wallace, 
the author of the Dissertation on the numbers of mankind, assert 
that nobody could cope with him. His knowledge in almost all 
things was deep and solid, and unanswerable ; his reasoning was 
plain, even to a child. In shrewdness he had no rival. Both his 
manner and thoughts were masculine in a degree peculiar to him- 
self, fir Smith says it was an observation of the late Lord Eli* 
bank, that wherever Wilkie's name was mentioned in a company, 
learned and unlearned, it was not soon dropt. Every body had 
much to say in regard to him/^* 

The principal character in which he is now known to the lite- 
rary world is that of a poet, and his fame in that character is not 
widely diffused. His chief work is an Epic poem in imitation of 
Homer, entitled the Epigonaid, founded upon the story of the 




procured him the name of '< the potatoe minister." It is mentioned among bis many 
peeuliaridca, that he slept with an immoderate quantity of bed-clothes. Being one 
day on a visit to a farmer, a relation of his own, be consented, at bis request, to stay 
all night, but begged to have plenty of blankets. His female friends in the family 
collected twenty-four pairs, and put them on bis bed. When asked in the morning 
if he had had abundance of bed-clothes, he answered that be had just enough, and 
Jiad slept well. 



g8 EDINBUR(JHSHiR&. 

seige of Thebes^' related in the Fourth Book of the Iliad. We are* 
told by the author of the last Statistical Account, that he left many 
valuable manuscripts, both scientific and miscellaneous, none of 
which that we are aware have been published since that time. 

Sir Robert Liston. — The late Sir Robert Listen, K. G. C. R 
who resided constantly for the last fifteen years of his life at Milburn 
in this parish, was born at Overton, in the parish of Kirkliston, 
in the year 1742. He studied originally for the church, but 
had his attention diverted from it to the civil service of his 
country, while a tutor in the family of Hugh Elliot, Esq. He 
acted at intervals, from 1774 to 1821, either as Secretary of 
Legation, or as Ambassador from this kingdom at the courts of 
Munich, Berlin, Spain, Sweden, the United States, Holland, and 
the Ottoman Porte ; in all of which situations he displayed great 
diplomatic wisdom and address. He. retired finally upon a peOr 
sion in 1821, and took up his residence on his estate of Milburn, 
which he had previously purchased. Here he lived during the 
remainder of his days, iipproving and beautifying his property, and 
taking an active part in all the public concerns of the parbh* 
His general intelligence, courtesy, and affability made his society 
be courted by the high ; so that, besides the intercourse which he 
maintained with the neighbouring gentry, scarcely a foreigner of 
any distinction came to the metropolis who did not pay him a visit 
at Milburn. His public spirit and zeal for originating and for«> 
warding general improvements, secured him the regard of the 
working classes^ while the generosity and enlarged benevolence of 
his disposition endeared him to the poor of his neighborhood. 
In 1832 he was seized with an affection of the head, which, while 
it appeared not to affect his judgment, or his bodily powers^ de- 
prived him almost completely of the memory of words. Though 
at one time capable of speaking with comparative ease and cor- 
rectness, ten different languages, he appeared henceforth to have 
lost them all ; and when he attempted to speak, after the first few 
words of English, his speech was only a confused jumble of sounds, 
which belonged to no language. In this state he continued for 
four years, enjoying a tolerable degree of health ; and, so far as 
he could make himself understood, giving directions chiefly by 
natural signs about improvements upon his estate, and the roads 
of the parish, which he had long superintended, till 1836. He 
died the same year at the advanced age of ninety*four, and was 
interred in the old church-yard of Gogar. The parishioners of 



RATHO. 89 

Hatho, in testimony of their regard for his worthy and their respect 
for his memory, solicited permission to accompany his remains to 
the sepulchre, but the merited compliment, for private reasons, 
was declined. 

Sir William Fettes, — Sir William Fettes, who died a few years 
ago, leaving bis immense fortune for the erection of an educa- 
tional establishment, to be called the Fettes Institution, was an 
heritor of the parish, and had his country house in it* 

Land-owners. — The land of this parish is now very mu.ch sub- 
divided. The following is a list of the proprietors, with the names 
of their estates, arranged in the order of their relative magnitude. 
The Earl of Morton, holding the lands of Dalmahoy and Addis* 
ton; William Wilkie, Esq* ofBonnington; William Davidson, Esq. 
of Hatton ; theHeirs of the late John Bonar, Esq.,of Ratho; Alexander 
Berwick, Esq. of Norton ; William Hill, Esq. of Hillwood and Ra- 
the Hall ; William H. Brown, Esq. of Ashley ; William L. Whyte, 
Esq. of Kellerstane ; Mrs Listen* of Milbum ; the Heirs of Sir 
William Fettes ; Edward Lothian, Esq. of Overgogar ; Sir Alex- 
ander Gibson Maitland ; James Sinclair, Esq. of Oaigpark ; Rev# 
Daniel Wilkie of Ratho Byres; Sir James Gibson Craig; Lord 
Meadowbank ; David Wardlaw, ^Esq. of Gogar Mount ; James 
M. Melville, Esq. 

Parochial Registers. — These are neither of very old date, nor 
very complete from the period of their commencement. They 
consist of seven volumes, six of which are in small folio, and one in 
quarto ; which last has the appearance of a mere scroll of the 
minutes of session. Two of the volumes form a register of bap- 
tisms and marriages, respectively from 1738 and 1741, to the pre- 
sent time. The rest contain the proceedings of the kirk-session 
in the administration of the discipline of the church. Their earli- 
est entry bears the date of 1693, four years posterior to the Re- 
volution. There is no record from 1721 to 1738^ nor from 1760 
to 1802. It appears from the earlier part of these records, that 
the catalogue of offences which was taken cognizance of, and made 
the subject of judicial procedure, wa£ much greater than now. Id 
some respects, a return to the old methods of procedure would be 
advantageous, in others the reverse. 

Slander and neglect of church ordinances ap|>ear not unfre- 
quently, as the subjects of investigation and correction. To re- 
medy the latter, a committee seems at times to have been ap- 
pointed, called the Searckersj whose duty it was to visit, during 



90 EDINBURQHSHIRB. 

the time of divine service, the different parts of the parish where 
the neglect prevailed, to enter the houses of the inhabitants, to 
ascertain who were absent from divine service, with the causes of 
their absence, and to report to the next meeting; of session; The 
report thus given in is termed *' the Searchers' Report." A simi- 
lar measure might not be without its advantages in many parishes 
at the present time. 

Antiquities. — Eneampments.'^The South Piatt hill is the site 
of an ancient encampment. The remains of it were to be seen 
about thirty years ago, when the ground was turned up, and the 
stones appropriated for building the present fences upon the Ra- 
tho Hall property. The camp, as described in a letter by Geoige 
Reid, Esq. at that time proprietor of the grounds of which it formed 
a part, occupied about an acre of ground on the summit of the emi* 
nence, and was surrounded with a ditch and rampart, formed with 
large stones mixed with black earth. There were also two circular 
enclosures, one on the east, the other on the west side of the main 
camp, of from 90 to 40 feet diameter, surroi|pded in like maok 
ner with a ranftpart of large blocks and black earth, and paved in 
the area with flags of freestone, which last must have been brought 
from a distance. 

On the removal of the rubbish, the bones of some persons of 
large dimensions were discovered, all of which were enclosed in 
coffins formed with flags of freestone. One of these stones now 
forms a seat on the top of the hill, at the corner of the wood. 
Some large beads of a blue and yellow colour also were discover- 
ed ; none of which are known to have been preserved. 

At the time the improvements upon the hill were going on, a 
tradition existed of a woman's having been burnt here for witch- 
craft. This led to an examination of the spot specified as the 
scene of the superstitious execution, when a quantity of burnt ashes 
were found quite entire. 

It is difficult arriving at any thing like a satisfactory solution of 
the nature of this and similar positions throughout the country, es- 
pecially when not only history is silent in regard to the events there 
transacted, but when the demolition of the works has been conduct- 
ed more with a view to immediate agricultural improvement than 
to the furtherance of scientific inquiry. We know from the re- 
mains of bodies found in the plains to the north, about Newbridge 
and Gogar Camp, (Henley), that these fields were the scene of 
not a few severe struggles, generally supposed to have been with 



nATHO. 91 

the Norwegians ; and this rising-ground may not improbably have 
been seized by them as a place of some strength, on their advance 
into the country after these engagements. This supposition is ren- 
dered all the more likely as the coffins found in Gogar Camp and on 
the Piatt hill were of similar construction, and in both cases resem- 
bled those found at Largs, in Ayrshire, where it is historically 
known that the Norsemen buried their dead, slain in an unsuccess- 
ful engagement with the Scots under Alexander III. The quan- 
tity of Mack earth found on the hill, which must either have been 
the result of the decomposition of many dead bodies, or, what is 
perhaps as probable, the remains of the ashes of their camp-fires, 
as well as the substantial way in which the inclosures to the east 
and west of the camp were executed, apparently for increasing the 
strength of the works, shew that the position had been occupied 
for a considerable time. 

Kaime^ HilL — The Kaimes' Hill, which is in view of this post, 
is the site of another encampment of similar construction, and ap- 
parently of the same era. Of this encampment the remains are 
visible. The space occupied by it is about three acres in extent, and 
includes the summit, with a considerable partof the eastern declivity. 
The area of the camp is surrounded by a double fosse and rampart, 
founded in one place with stones and black earth, except on the 
north side where the rock is so precipitous as to form of itself a 
sufficient defence. The access to the camp is from the east, two 
large stones still marking what was the place of entrance. On the 
very summit of the hill there is a cairn of stones, concave in the 
centre, which is covered with turf greener than the ground around 
it Toward the north-east, in a small valley immediately under 
the brow of the hill, there are to be seen, at least, ten circles form-* 
ed with stones indented or laid in the ground. These, which are 
all within the line of the defences, and in the most sheltered place 
of the encampment, are not improbably the remains of huts raised 
for the purpose of accommodating the sick and wounded during 
the period of the hill's occupation. At their extremity, is still a 
spring, which was, no doubt, of use to the army generally, and 
might, in conjunction with the shelteredness of the position, affi)rd 
a strong motive for such erections in this particular spot. The ap- 
pearance of the ground in some ofthesecircles, afewof thestones 
being covered with a rich moss, and bearing some stalks of stunt- 
ed nettles, render it possible that some bodies may be here inter- 
red. It might contribute to the advancement of antiquarian lore. 



92 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

if some of these circles were dug up and examined. The situa- 
tion of this encampment, by whomsoever occupied, must have been 
a place of considerable strength, and of great utility, commanding, 
as it does, an extensive prospect on all sides, and consequently, 
not liable to the danger of sudden surprise. 

Old ChapeL — In the memory of some now living, a part of a 
Gothic arch, supposed to be the remains of a chapel, was stand* 
ing at Long Dalmahoy. A part of the ground in the immediate 
neighbourhood is of so black and deep a mould, that it is consi- 
dered as the site of the burying-ground attached to the same 
chapel. 

Jouga, — This consists of an iron collar attached to a chain, the 
extremity of which was fixed in the wall of a building in the centre 
of the village. This collar was, it is supposed, in feudal times, 
put upon the necks of criminals, who were thus kept standing in a 
pillory as a punishment for petty delinquencies. It would not be 
necessary in such cases, we presupe, to attach to the prisoner any 
label descriptive of his crime. In a small country village the crime 
and the cause of punishment would in a very short time be su6S- 
ciently public. Possibly, however, for the benefit of the casual 
passenger, the plan of the Highland laird might be sometimes 
adopted, who adjudged an individual for stealing turnips to stand 
at the church-door with a large turnip fixed to his button-hole.* 
The jougs are now in the possession of James Craig, Esq. Lud- 
gate Lodge, Ratho. 

Mansion Houses. — The chief of these are Hatton House, a fine 
old baronial building, some of which is of very ancient date ; Dal- 
mahoy House, which was built about 130 years ago, but has sub- 
sequently received additions by different occupants ; Ratho House, 
a very splendid building in the Grecian style, erected by the late 
John Bonar, Esq. ; Milburn Tower, built by the late Sir R. Lis- 
ten ; Bennington House, built in 1622; Norton, now finished, the 
property of Alexander Berwick, Esq. Besides these, most of the 
mansion houses of the different proprietors are tasteful and ele- 
gant in their appearance. 

III. — Population. 
There are no means of ascertaining the population of the parish 
at any very remote period. 

* Since writing the above, we find that the jougs were originally attached to the 
diurcbi and were used in eases of ecclesiastical discipline. 



KATHO. 93 

In 1755, tbe return made to Dr Webster gave, - • 080 

1792, . - .... 825 

1811, - - - . - - 1008 

1821, - - - - - - 1444 

1831, . - - . ^ - - 1314 
1838, from a turrej made for this Account by Mi^ Thomas Wallace, 

a member of Session, .... 1454 

Of these 700 are males, 754 females. 

It appears from the above statements, that the population of the 
parish has fluctuated considerably between different periods. Since 
the year in which the last Statistical Account was compiled, till the 
last Government census, an interval of thirty-nine years, there wasan 
increase of 489 ; and from 1831 to 1888, there has been an addition 
of 149. The former increase is to be ascribed to three causes, — 
the improvement in the agriculture of the parish, and the additional 
number of hands required for its operations ; the cutting of the 
Canal, which has increased the facility of communication between 
this parish and the surrounding country, and the opening up of some 
stone quarries in the neighbourhood of the village. The latter 
increase, from 1631 to the present time, is to be ascribed to the 
continued operation of the same causes, together with the greater 
subdivision of the land in the parish, the building of new mansions 
by the proprietors, and the formation of establishments in con- 
nection with them. It is proper to mention that, in the census 
taken for 1838, two families are included, who had rented during 
summer the unoccupied mansions of two of the heritors. 

Of the population above specified there are 

In the village of Ratho, . . . 539 

of Bonniogton, • . 100 

country parts, . . . 815 

Making in all, . 1454 

The number of persons under 15 years is 560 

between 15 and dO, 986 

ao 50, . ao9 

50 70, 168 
70 and upwards, 81 

1454 

The average number of marriages for the last seven years is, . 12f 

The raster is so imperfect as not to furnish a proper average on the head of 
births ; and no sccount is kept of funerals. 

The number of bachelors and widowers upwards of 50 years of age is, 23 

That of unmarried women upwards of 45 is, • 17 

Number of fiunflics in 1831 amounted to . . • 273 

chiefly employed in agriculture, • . 184 

trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 46 

There are 3 insane persons, one of whom is kept by the parish 
in an asylum in Edinburgh ; 1 person deaf and dumb ; and 1 so 
blind as not to be able to gain a livelihood. The parish con- 
tains I nobleman, and 16 individuals in all, who hold land to the 
value of L.50 Sterling a-year and upwards. 



94 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Habits and Character of the People, — The habits of the peo- 
ple are cleanly rather than otherwise, and there is an increas- 
ing taste among them for flower-plots, shrubs, and other means 
of beautifying the exterior of their cottages. The food of the 
peasantry is generally vegetable and farinaceous, butcher-meat 
being used but occasionally, in which case it is boiled with broth 
for dinner. Enjoying few of the luxuries of life, the people are in 
general contented, as they are industrious, honest in their dealings, 
civil, respectful, and obliging in their manners. The cutting of 
the Canal had atone time a very injurious effect upon the charac- 
ter of the population, from the scenes of riot and dissipation among 
the Irish labourers, of which the village was the centre, and after 
the work was Bnished, from the number of Irish who took up their 
residence it. But time has produced a marked change to the 
better. Most of the families who at first settled have departed, 
and those that remain have come under the humanizing influence 
of good neighbourhood and Protestant institutions. Still, however, 
there is room for improvement with not^a few on the score of in- 
teiqperance, which is the crying evil among the Scottish population* 

IV. — Industry. 
The parish of Ratho may be regarded as entirely agricultural, 

there being only a few families who are not either directly or in- 
directly dependent for their subsistence upon the cultivation of the 
soil. 

The following may be regarded as a close approximation to 
truth in reference to the condition of the land. 

Number of acres, standard imperial measure, which are either cultivated or 

occasionally in tillage, .... 4978 

The number of acres which remain constantly in pasture, . 444 

Number under wood, . . ' . 896 

In aU, 5818 

Rent of Land. — The rent of land varies from ISs. to L. 4, 10s. 
and will amount on an average to L. 2, 12s. per Scotch acre. Rents, 
it may be remarked, have fallen considerably since 1808, the period 
when land was at its height, and have, besides, been generally con- 
verted from money into grain within the last fifteen or twenty 
years. Grazing is at the rate of L. 5 for a cow from Whitsunday 
to Martinmas ; 5d. per week, or lOs. lOd. for the half year, is 
about the price required for pasturing a full-grown sheep, 

B4ite of Labour. — The rate of labour for day labourers is 10s. 
in summer, and 9s. in winter ; females, at out^door work, receive 
Id. an hour, or lOd. a-day ; children from 6d. to 8d. a-day ; farm- 

4 



• RATHO* 95 

servants who are hired by the year receive their wages partly in 
kind and partly in money. They have for the year 6 bolls, 2 Br- 
lots of meal, 3 bolls of potatoes, the carriage of 4 carts of coals, 
and Lte 16 in money. These different items, with their house, may 
be considered equal in value to L. 26 a-year. The wages of arti- 
sans are as follows : masons, 3s. a-day ; wrights, 2s. 6d. ; slaters, 
4s. ; blacksmiths, from 2s. 6d. to 3s. per day. The price of a sub- 
stantial full mounted cart is L. 10; of a wooden plough, L. 2, 10s. ; 
a pair of single wooden harrows, L. 2, 1 Os. ; an iron plough, L. 3, 1 Os. ; 
a pair of iron harrows, L. 3, lOs. 

Breed of Cattle. — There are few cattle bred in the parish, but 
those which are reared are a cross between the short-homed and 
the Ayrshire ; this species being considered by many to answer best 
both for feeding and dairy purposes. 

Husbandry. — The rotation followed on the clay loam is, 1. 
fallow, with fifteen tons of manure; 2. wheat; 3. clover and 
rye-grass, pastured either with sheep or cattle for one or two years, 
or made hay the first year, and in this case broken up and made 
oats as after the two years pasture. The rotation adopted on the 
dry soft loam is, 1. potatoes or turnips after the soil is properly 
pulverized and quickens gathered, and thirty tons of good stable 
manure applied to the former, and twenty tons of police manure to 
the latter. 2. Wheat or barley; 3. clover and rye-grass pas- 
tured or made into hay, as on the clay loam ; and 4. oats, which 
finishes the rotation. 

/>ratniii^.— The system of draining formerly pursued was that 
of cross drains. These were all cut four feet deep, and a foot wide 
at the bottom, and filled with large stones. This system has now, 
however, given place entirely to that of furrow drains, which are cut 
two and a-half feet deep, and filled with fourteen inches of small 
stones, broken so as to pass through a four-inch ring. In some in- 
stances, tiles are made use of in the furrow drains, twenty-two inches 
deep, with a layer of gravel above. The leading drains in both 
cases are from three to four feet deep, with a large tile in the bot- 
tom, and one foot of small stones on the top. In such parts of the 
land as have been furrow-drained, the subsoil plough has been used 
with great advantage, and seems to make a complete change upon 
a spongy damp soil. 

Leases* — The general duration of leases is nineteen years; 
which may be considered short when an expensive drainage has 
taken place at the expense of the farmer. 



96 EDINBUKOHSUIRE. 

Farm BuUdinffs, — The farm buildiugs and enclosures through- 
out the parish are good, with the exception of the servants' houses, 
which generally, with a stinted economy, neither fiavourable to com- 
fort or delicate feeling, have only a single apartment for the accom- 
modation of a family. Most of the farm steadings are built of 
whinstone and edged with freestone. In two instances steam- 
engines have been erected for thrashing out the grain. These 
may be considered as an improvement in as much as, while they 
save the horses, they afford the farmer the use of a constant and 
unwearied power. Were the adoption of these becoming general, 
however, they would give to the country all the appearance of a 
manufacturing district, with its red chimney stalks and smoky at- 
mosphere. As lovers of the country, and as desirous that it may 
long retain its distinctive properties, we deprecate their farther in- 
troduction. 

Improvements. — Since the period of the last Statistical Account 
a very great improvement has taken place upon the surface of the 
parish. A considerable quantity of land, comprehending chiefly 
Ratho and Gogar moors, which were then in a state of nature, have 
been reclaimed and brought under the plough. Much has been 
done, too, in the way of draining on several properties, in some cases 
by the owner, in others by the tenant. The facility with which 
manure is naw procured from Edinburgh by the Canal has contri- 
buted in no small degree to the fertility of the soil. One of the 
consequences resulting from this facility is, that three times the 
amount of green crop is now raised, compared with what was for- 
merlv. 

There is here a distillery connected with the Ratho Hall pro- 
perty, and rented at present by the Messrs Buchan. It employs 
in superintendence and work eleven individuals. The quantity of 
whisky distilled is from 800 to 1000 gallons in the period, or about 
42,000 gallons in the year. The spirit made here is much esteem- 
ed by competent judges. 

Quarries. — Of these there are four of whin and one of sandstone. 
Oiie of the former only is regularly wrought. On an average it 
keeps ten persons employed throughout the year. 

Produce.^ — The average produce of wheat per Scotch acre is con- 
sidered to be 7^ bolls, or 30 bushels at 6s. 6d. per bushel, barley 
6^ bolls, or 39 bushels at 3s. 4d. ; oats 8 bolls, or 48 bushels at 
2s. lOd. ; potatoes, 30 bolls, equal to 6 tons, at L.2, ds. per ton ; 

* The writer is indebted for his information on the subject of Agriculture to Mr 
John Melvin, an eitensive and most successful former in the parish. 



RATHO. 97 



turnips, 25 tons, at 6s« 4|d. per ton ; hay, 160 stone, at Sd. per 
stone. 



546 Scotch acres of wheat at L. 9. Ids. per acre. 



324 do. 


of barley at L. 6. 10s. 


869 do. . 


of oats at 1^. 6, 16s. 


424 do. 


of hay at L. 6, 6$. 8d: 


424 do. 


of potatoes at L. 13, 10s. 


297 do. 


of turnips at L. 8, 


1265 do. 


of pasture at 1. 2, 12s. 


370 do. 


of permanent pasture at 15s. 


Gardens and orchardsi 


Produce of quarriesj 


t • • 



L. 5878 10 





2106 





5909 4 





. 2261 6 


8 


5754 





2876 





. 3289 





277 10 





300 





500 





L. 28.146 10 


"i 



Total yearly value of raw produce raised, 

V, — Parochial Economy. 

Markets. — The parish has no market-town within its bounds, 
nor is its tranquillity disturbed by any periodical fairs. At one 
time it was the seat of a regular cattle-market, but that has been 
discontinued for a considerable period. The nearest outlet for the 
agricultural produce of the district is Edinburgh, which is seven 
miles and a-half distant from the church. 

Villages. — The principal village in the parish is Ratho. It is 
pleasantly situated upon a sloping declivity on the east side of the 
ridge which we have described as traversihg the parish. It con- 
sists of a single street, with two rows of houses running from west 
to east, and bending at a right angle northward to the Union Ca- 
nal. The latter'part of this street was anciently called the Lud Gate 
or Lord's Gate, from its forming the way of access to the House 
of God. The houses are chiefly one storey in height ; they are built 
of whinstone from the quarries in the neighbourhood, with free- 
stone lintels, and some are roofed with tiles, and others with slates. 
The village has been much extended and improved of late years by 
the erection of a number of neat cottages, and by the formation of 
dry drains and other alterations upon the street A few very old huts 
on the south side, which still connect the present village with the 
olden time, are now in process of demolition, and their place will no 
doubt in time be supplied by others of more commodious structure. 

The only other village now belonging to the parish is that of 
Bennington, situated about a mile and a-half west of Ratho, on 
the table-land of the same ridge. It consists of about twenty small 
thatched houses, inhabited entirely by the labourers and farm-ser- 
vants employed upon the estate of Bennington. The former Sta- 
tistical Account mentions also the village of Norton, of which no- 
thing now remains but four cot-houses. 

Means of CWiTWMnicaft'oa.— The village and parish of Ratho 

EDINBURGH . . G 



98 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

have the advantage of a post*office, from which there are two de- 
liveries of letters every lawful day. The village being off the line 
of the mail-coaches, the bag is carried by a runner to the turnpike, 
and then delivered to the mail. The salary of the postmaster is 
L. 10 a-year. Individuals travelling to the east or west may have 
the benefit of all the Edinburgh and Glasgow stage-coaches, which 
run upon the Uphall and Calder roads. The former of these, 
which is the chief thoroughfare between the two capitals of Scot- 
land, touches the parish on the north for about a quarter of a mile ; 
the latter divides it for a mile and a half from Addiston Bridge 
to Burnwynd. 

The Uiiion Canal, however, from its vicinity to the village, is 
of the greatest advantage to the people. The conception of this 
undertaking was first suggested by the successful completion of 
the Forth and Clyde Canal, and was executed as a means at once 
of facilitating the transport of heavy goods between Glasgow and 
Edinburgh, and of opening up the coal districts to the west for the 
benefit of the capital. It was begun in 1818 and finished in 1822, 
at an expense of nearly L. 400,000. 

This work, originating in a laudable spirit of enterprise, has not 
realized the sanguine hopes of its projectors, and, like many other 
improvements, it has hitherto been beneficial chiefly to the public 
At present, besides the conveyance of manufactures, it serves as 
a channel for the transport of manure from Edinburgh to the 
grounds upon its banks, and of coal in return from the pits in lan-^ 
lithgow and Stirlingshire. In these respects it has contributed 
materially to the improved cultivation of the country, and to the 
comfort in winter of the inhabitants of Edinburgh. For four 
years past, a class of swift boats has been established upon it for 
the special conveyance of passengers, which travel at the rate of 
eight or nine miles an hour. Of these there are three each day 
in summer, leaving Port Hopetoun and Port Dundas, at the hours 
of six, nine, and twelve. Three of the many bridges over this 
line of water are in this parish ; and there are two over the Gogar 
Bum, one at Addiston, the other at Burnwynd. 

Hallway. — The line of the proposed railway between Edinburgh 
and Glasgow intersects the north-east side of the parish, and when 
formed, will afford an additional means of communication. The 
parish roads are about fourteen miles in length, and are maintained 
by an assessment upon the land of so much per ploughgate. They 
have been for many years in a remarkably good state. The pa. 
rish is indebted for their superiority to the late Sir B. Listen, 



RATHO. 99 

who, besides superintending the management of them, contributed 
most liberally beyond his legal proportion^ to the expense of their 
improvement. 

There is, besides the means of communication already specified, 
a carrier from Ratho to Edinburgh twice a-week, on Tuesdays 
and Fridays. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The Church of Ratho is said to have bpen 
anciently dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and that this was the case, 
is confirmed by the fact, that a fountain in the immediate neighbour- 
hood of the church still bears the name of the Lady's Well. Ratho 
was then a rectory, of which the patronage appears to have be- 
longed to the lords of the manor. The living was early of con- 
siderable value, being rated in the ancient taxation at seventy 
merks. In 1444, when the College Kirk of Corstorphine was 
founded by the donation and mortification of Sir John Forrester 
of Corstorphine, the teinds and patronage of Ratho were made 
over to him by the Archbishop of St Andrews, as directed by a 
popish bull. By this means four prebendal stalls were endowed 
in connection with the College Kirk,* which are called in ancient 
documents half Dalmahoy, half Hatton, half Bennington, half 
Piatt, thus intimating their connection with this parish as the 
source of their revenue. The teinds of Ratho being thus in a 
great measure abstracted, it sunk, we presume, from the dignity 
of a rectory into a mere curacy. In 1617, upon the disjunction 
of the College Kirk from the Abbacy of Holyrood, with which it 
had been previously connected, and its erection into a separate 
institution, called the Parsonage and Vicarage of Corstorphine, 
the prebends to which we have alluded were appropriated for a 
maintenance to the ministers thereof, with the reservation of L.40 
Scots, as a stipend to the minister of Ratho. In 1633, by an 
Act of Charles L, the ecclesiastical institutions of Corstorphine 
were again remodelled, and the four prebends were annexed to 
the College Kirk as before. The greater part of the teinds of 
Ratho continued to be thus applied, in all likelihood, till the Re- 
volution, when the Presbyterian form of church government was 
finally re-established, and Ratho became a distinct parish, instead 
of being, as it had been during the reigns of Popery and Episco- 
pacy, a mere appendage to the ecclesiastical institutions of Cor- 
storphine. 

* See Caledonia, and the old documents of the Lauderdale Family in the hftnds of 
Oibton-Craigs, Wardlav, and Daliel, W. S. 



100 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The patronage and the haill teinds of the parish of Ratho, 
which had till 1671 been the property of the Forresters of Corstor- 
phine, were then, with the exception of those of Dalmahoy and 
Bennington, disponed by James Lord Forrester to Charles Mait- 
land of Hatton. The patronage still remains in connection with 
the estate of Hatton, but is at present vested in four trustees. 

The present church is as conveniently situated as it possibly 
could be for the great majority of the population. It stands to the 
north of the village, on the opposite side of the Canal, in a repos- 
ing situation, and is surrounded by trees of ancient growth, through 
the embowering foliage of which it is dimly seen by the casual 
passenger. When it was built is uncertain, unless it was at the 
satne time with the Dalmahoy isle, which is apparently of similar 
antiquity, and bears the date of 1683. It partook originally of 
the form common to the tasteless country churches of Scotland, 
being a long narrow bam-like building, with the pulpit in the 
centre, and recesses on either side, and in front of it, for the families 
of the principal heritors. A few years ago, during the minis- 
try of the Rev. Dr Henderson of Glasgow, an addition was made 
to the south side of it, at an expense of L. 500 or L. 600, which, 
besides increasing the accommodation considerably, has improved 
most materially the external and internal appearance of the build- 
ing. The church is now somewhat in the form of a cross ; and 
affords ample accommodation for the population, being seated for 
about 700. The seats are allocated to the different heritors 
according to their valued rents, and by them subdivided among 
their tenants and dependents. It ought to be remarked, that the 
new part, as it was built not by a legal assessment upon the whole 
heritors, but by the subscriptions of a few, belongs to the subscrib- 
ers and to those others who had seats upon its site. None of the 
sittings are let ; those which are required ibr the tenantry of the 
different proprietors in the parish being occupied without rent by 
the villagers. 

The church is a very plesant one in summer, bbt, from the great 
number of public and private doors which it contains, it is intole- 
rably cold in winter. An attempt was made to remedy this by a 
stove ; but, from the defective principle upon which it is construct- 
ed, it has failed to produce the desired effect. The church-yard 
requires an addition to its extent, and some alterations, which would 
improve materially the enclosure of the sanctuary. 

Belonging to the church are two benefactions by Richard Lord 



RATHO. 101 

Maitland, a former proprietor, of Hatton. The one consists of 
two communion cups of massive silver, bearing this inscription : 
'^ Given by Richard Lord Maitland in 1684, to the service of God, 
for the church of Rutha." The other consists of a baptismal plate 
and ewer, with the Lauderdale arms, and the inscription, ^< For 
the service of God, given by Richard Lord Maitland, to the pa- 
rish church of Ratho, anno 1685."* 

Manse and Glebe. — The present manse, which is a plain but com- 
modious structure, is situated in the Kirktown hard by the church. 
It was built in 1803^ during the ministry of the late Dr Duncan, 
whose name is kept in grateful remembrance by the people. Since 
the time of its erection, no alterations of any consequence have 
been made upon it. The offices belonging to the old manse still 
remain, and are fast hastening to decay. 

The glebe consists of two separate portions of land. The one 
of these, which is of excellent quality, is about 3^ acres Scotch, 
exclusive of the garden, and the site of the manse and offices ; the 
latter, or grass glebe, which contains about 4 acres, is a piece of 
swampy mossy soil, of little co'mparative value. Together, they 
are worth about L. 16 or L. 18. The stipend is 17 chalders of 
grain, half meal, half barley, with the exception of about 6 bolls, 
3 firlots, 2 pecks, 2 lippies, of wheat, and 6 bolls, 1 firlot, 3 pecks, 
3 lippies of oats. It is paid by the highest fiars of the county, and 
on an average of the last five years may be stated in money at 
L. 250, exclusive of L. 8^ 68. 8d. for communion elements. 

There is no place of worship in- the parish save the parish 
church. Six-sevenths of the population belong to the Establish-' 
raent. There are 1286 individuals in connection with the Esta- 
blished Church. Those belonging to other denominations amount 
in all to 168 persons. Of these, 132 are Dissenters or Seceders, 
chiefly in connection with the United Secession, and worshipping 
at East Calder, Slateford, or Balerno; 17, chiefly the family 
of the Earl of Morton, are Episcopalians; and 19 are Roman Ca- 
tholics, or those belonging to the Establishment, the number of 

* It appears from the session records, that these cups were carried off by the Ear] 
of Lauderdale to his estnte in the south, at the period of the Revolution ; from what 
cause does not appear, probably for their safe custody in these troublous times. One 
of the first minutes of the kirk-session on record contains the appointment of a com- 
mittee fur the recovery of the same. The committee, it appears, waited first upon Sir 
John nalmahoy of that Ilk, to request his assistance in procuring their restoration, 
but he being in prison could give them no aid. A deputation of two is forthwith 
sent to Lauder to wait upon Lord Maitland, from whom, upon gi-auting a receipt, 
they received the utensils, and since that time they have remained in the custody of 
the ministers and kirk-scssion. 



102 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

communicants on an average of the winter and summer commu- 
nionsy is 420. 

Divine service is not upon the whole so uniformly well attended as 
might be expected from the number of persons in communion with 
the church, and professing adherence to it The state of the weather 
makes a much greater alteration in the attendance, than could be 
anticipated among a hardy agricultural peasantry, whose occu- 
pation habituates them to all manner of exposure. The practice 
of half-day attendance, which prevails among some of the better 
classes, has undoubtedly a most detrimental effect upon those who 
more immediately come under the influence of their example. 

Since the institution of the General Assembly's four schemes, 
the religious contributions of the people have been chiefly directed 
into these channels. There is a collection made once in the year, 
for each of these, and the average amount of the whole may be 
about L. 14. The regular weekly collections for the poor have, 
on an average of three years, amounted annually to L. 44, 12s. 
These, however, it is to be remarked, are daily on the decrease. 

Education. — There are, at present, 3 schools connected with 
the parish, all of which are in the village of Ratho. The chief of 
these is the parish school, which has for years been most efficient- 
ly taught by Mr James Gourlay. There attend it, upon an ave- 
rage through the yeav, about 85 scholars. The instruction im- 
parted comprehends the common branches of reading, writing, and 
arithmetic, English grammar, and geography, with the higher 
branches of book-keeping, French, Latin, and Greek, and mathe- 
matics, when required. The fees, as fixed by the heritors and 
kirk-session, are as follows : 2s. 6d. per quarter for English reading ; 
writing, 3s. 6d. ; arithmetic, 4s. 6d. ; Latin, 7s. 6d. ;' Greek, 9s. 6d, ; 
French, 10s. 6d. The higher charge always comprehends the 
lower branches of instruction. For English grammar and geogra- 
phy no additional charge is made. The schoolmaster has the 
legal accommodation of house and garden ; his salary is L. 34^ 4s. 
4^. ; the school-fees should amount to L. 40. Besides this, he 
may receive L. 9, 10s. a-year from his office as session-clerk, and 
the fees connected with it. 

The other two schools are taught by females, and are chiefly 
to be considered as sewing-schools ; the reading and writing taught 
in them, being chiefly intended to keep up the remembrance of 
what has already been acquired in the parish school. One of these 
IS supported partly by yearly subscriptions, which vary in amount, 



RATHO. 103 

and partly by fees ; the other by fees entirely. The number of 
children attending each is 22 ; the fee per quarter, 2s. 6d. 

Besides the week day-schools, there are also 3 Sabbath schools 
in operation in the different parts of the parish, attended in all by 
about 100 children. One of these is in Ratho, another in Long 
Dalmahoy, and a third in Bennington. The latter two have been 
instituted but lately, and promise to be of considerable advantage 
in the diffusion of religious knowledge and pious feeling. 

From the statement made of the numbers attending the schools 
in the parish, that number being about 129, it may be thought that 
there is a considerable deBciency in this respect, considering the 
population under fifteen years of age. In explanation of this, 
however, it must be mentioned, that not a few in the out- 
skirts of the parish attend private schools in the adjoining pa- 
rishes, which are more contiguous to their respective residences. 
The only part of the parish that is at all inconveniently situated, as 
regards either school or church, is Long Dalmahoy, but the amount 
of the population is too small to warrant any separate erection. The 
distance, besides, is not extreme, being about two miles and a half 
by the nearest way of access. 

The people, on the whole, in common with the inhabitants of 
Scotland, seem to be duly alive to the benefits of education, and 
many of them struggle hard in order to secure it for their children. 
With the wages of a labouring population, however, the difficulty 
is great, and many of them are compelled to rest satisfied with a 
much smaller amount of it than their sense of its importance 
would dictate. It is much to be desired that a more ample re- 
muneration were allotted to the schoolmasters in the shape of sa- 
lary, and that the fees, low as they are, were lower still. 

Four pounds per annum are, according to the existing arrangement, 
allowed by the heritors for the education of eight poor children. 

Library. — There is a library in the parish, consisting of between 
(300 and 400 small ^volumes, under the management of the kirk- 
session and a committee of the inhabitants. The books were pur- 
chased four years ago with money raised by subscription, chiefly 
among the heritors. At its first formation, it was intended for the 
benefit of the Sabbath scholars, and for a time confined to them ; 
afterwards, however, it was considered advisable to make it paro- 
chial, and it is now open to the whole parish. The subscription is 
Is. for children, and 2s. for adults in the year. The advantages 
which it offers have hitherto been made use of chiefly by the chil- 



104 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

dren attending the parish school. There are few adult subscribers. 
It is hoped, however^ that the parents profit by the perusal of the 
books taken home by the children, as they are generally of a cha- 
racter from which the old as well as the young may learn. 

Friendly Societies, — There are at present 3 societies of this de- 
scription existing. One is termed the Ratho Yearly Society ; and, 
as its name intimates, lasts only for a-year, when it is dissolved and 
formed of new. It embraces three objects, — the saving of a portion 
of money for rent, and other purposes ; the relief of casual sick- 
ness ; and the diminution, of the burden of expense consequent 
upon a funeral. For these purposes, each member pays Is. 2d. a 
week ; the odd pence, with the interest of the whole, forms a 
fund from which sick members are relieved, at 'the rate of 5s. a 
week for the first thirteen weeks, 2s. 6d. for the next thirteen, and 
Is. 6d. during the remainder of the year. In the event of a mem- 
ber's death, his family receives L. 2 for funeral expenses, and L. I, 
10s. are given on the death of a member's wife. What remains of 
the whole sum paid from November of the one year to the suc- 
ceeding one, is divided among the members at the expiry of the 
year. There are 6*2 individuals members of this society. The 
aflairs are conducted by a committee of twelve, exclusive of the 
treasurer. 

Masons Society^ — The Free Masons have a Friendly Society in 
connection with their lodge. This society numbers at present about 
50 members, and has, besides the building appropriated to masonic 
meetings, a fund of L. 300. The entry-money paid by persons 
joining the fund is stated in the printed regulations to be L. 1, Is., 
exclusive of what is paid by them as masons. This sum is now 
reduced. Besides the sum paid on entering, each member contri- 
butes to the fund 2s. per quarter, and in return, receives during 
sickness, 6s.perweekforthefirsttwelve weeks, 4s. for the next twelve, 
2s. for the succeeding twenty-six weeks, after which he is put upon 
the sifperannuated allowance of Is. per week during the continuance 
of his illness. L. 6 are given for the funeral expenses of a mem- 
ber. L. 2 of this sum may be drawn by him on the decease of his 
wife, and three only are then allowed to be drawn at his own death. 
A collection of Is. is made from each member when the funeral 
money is taken in whole, 6d. when the L. 2 is taken, and other 6d. 
when application is made for the remaining L. 3. From 1st June 
1837, to 13th August 1838, this society received L.40, 3s. 2|d., 
and paid out L. 44, 16s. 6^d. 



KATHO. 105 

Another society, having similar objects in view, was instituted 
two years ago ; but its operations have not yet commenced, nor 
are its articles embodied in a regular form. 

Savings Bank. — A savings bank existed some years ago, which 
is now dissolved. At present the National Savings Bank serves the 
same purpose, and, from the conBdence with which it is deserved- 
ly regarded, receives considerable contributions from the industri- 
ous among the people. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor at present receiv- 
ing regular parochial assistance is 26, being at the rate of one in 
every 57 of the population. The sum allowed to these variesfrom 2s« 
6d to 6s. per month ;— 4s. may be regarded as the average allowance 
to individuals. In addition to this, each pauper receives a cart of 
coals of 16 cwt at the commencement of the year; and the more 
necessitous of their number half a cart additional in the month of 
March. Besides those receiving constant aid, a few receive occa- 
sional assistance in money, and many more in coals. This class 
amountedin 1835 to 19, in 1836 to 16, and in 1837-1838, owing to 
the severity of the winter, to 30, The permanent funds from which 
the poor are supported are, an assessment upon the heritors accord- 
ing to their valued rent, which has hitherto generally been levied 
at the rate of 2d. per pound Scotch valuation ; the church collec- 
tions, and the mortcloth dues. The assessment in 1835 was 
L. 59, the collections, L. 58, 4s. 4d., and mortcloth money, 
L. 1, 8s. 1836, assessment, L. 71, 2s. ; collections, L. 36, lis. 
2d. ; mortcloth dues, L. 2, 9s. 1837, assessment, L. 76, Os. 8d. ; 
collections, L. 29, Os. lid.; mortcloth dues, L. 5. The money, 
with which the coals is purchased, is raised by a collection at the 
church doors, and a subscription among the heritors and more 
wealthy of the people. The sum thus raised amounted last year 
to L. 34. In addition to the assistance afforded from these sour- 
ces to the indigent, a considerable number are supplied with ex- 
cellent broth twice a week, at Dalroahoy House, by the liberality 
of its charitable proprietor. In the case of any extraordinary ge- 
neral pressure from the inclemency of the season, or of feimily or 
individual distress, a subscription is the common means resorted 
to, and it never fails in accomplishing the desired object. 

We regret to say, when on the subject of the parochial funds, 
that there is not now the disposition there once was on the part of 
the people generally, to contribute to the collections at the church 
doors for behoof of the poor. The time was when scarcely aft indivi- 



106 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

dual entered the sanctuary, old or young, rich or poor, master or ser- 
vant, Viho did not previously cast his mite into the treasury. This 
laudable custom, however, proper and becoming as it is, has fallen 
very much with many into disuse. On the other hand, that reluc- 
tance to make application, or to receive assistance from the church, 
which was once so remarkable in Scotland, is here, as in other places 
around, fast disappearing, and, with some honourable exceptions, 
is almost extinct The receipt of parish aid does not appear to 
be regarded as any degradation, either by the recipients or by those 
connected with them ; and, indeed, the claims for admission upon 
the roll, are generally more than can with propriety be admitted. 
Necessity, however, it is believed, is the great impelling cause of 
9uch applications. 

Inns and Alehouses. — There is no proper inn in the parish ; 
there are, however, 8 public-houses, 7 of which are in the village 
of Ratho. This number is considerably greater than the amount of 
the population would justify. Their influence upon the habits of the 
people has never been considered of a beneficial kind. The practice, 
however, which is every day getting more prevalent, of sending for 
spirits, and drinking them in private houses, is infinitely more de- 
moralizing, as in the latter case, the wives and children of the 
drinkers are not oqly witnesses to the evil, but participators in 
the sin. Every drunkard becomes thus the corrupter of his whole 
household. 

Fuel. — Coals are our chief, it may be said our only fuel. Since 
the Canal was opened, our supply of that article has been derived 
chiefly from the Duke of Hamilton's pits at Niddry, in the parish 
of Polmont The price which, three years ago, used to be as low 
as 99. and 10s., has varied last year, from lis. to 15s. per ton. 
These coals burn well, but are rather dusty, the ashes being white 
and very light A small quantity is still brought from Benhar, 
whence the parish was formerly supplied almost entirely. The 
Benhar coals are generally considered of somewhat superior quali- 
ty, but the extreme length of the carriage, the distance being 
eighteen miles, has thrown them much into disuse in this quarter. 

October 1839. 



PARISH OF COLINTON. 

PRFSBTTBRT OF EDINBURGH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEED DALE. 

THE REV. LEWIS BALFOUR, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — This parish origiDally bore the name of Hailes, and 

was probably so called from that being the name of the property, 
out of which land had been appropriated for the glebe, and for the 
site of the church and manse. Afterwards, the name of Colinton 
was bestowed upon it, probably in compliment to the principal 
family in the parish, which possessed the lands bearing that name. 
Though the parish is described by the name of Colinton, without 
any addition, on the communion cups, which were purchased in 
1680, the name Hailes is applied to it in the church records 
till 1697, when it is written ^* Hailes, alias CoUingtoune." This 
form is used, most generally, when any date is given, till 1747 ; 
after which, except in one or two instances, the name of Colinton 
alone is employed. On one of the plates used at the communion, 
b this inscription, ^^ 1758. Collintoun, alias Hailes' Kirk." Hailes 
is said to be a plural word signifying ^^ mounds or hillocks ;" a 
meaning which aptly enough describes the lands to which it is ap- 
plied. Colinton may mean the town of Colin ; or it may be derived, 
we are told, from a Gaelic word signifying ^* a hollow ;" or from a 
French word, (coUiniJy which bears the opposite meaning of hil- 
ly, and so coincides with the original name of Hailes. The po- 
sition of the church is aptly described by either of the names, for it 
is the church in the ^^ hollow,'' and at the same time among ^^ the 
hillocks." 

Extent^ 4rc. — The parish lies to the westward of Edinburgh. 
The point nearest to that city is about three miles from the Ge- 
neral Post-Office ; and the church is about five miles distant 
from the same place. The parish is an irregular four-sided figure, 
extending in its greatest length about 3^ miles from north to south ; 
and in its greatest breadth^ about 3 miles from east to west ; 



108 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

it contains about 8 square miles. It is bounded on the north- 
west, by the parishes of Corstorphine and St Cuthberts ; on the 
north-east, by the parishes of Morningside (a new parish, quoad 
sacra^ separated from St Cuthberts,) and Liberton ; on the south- 
east, by the parishes of Lasswade and Glencorse ; and on the south- 
west, by those of Penicuik and Currie. 

Topographical Appearances. — The appearance of the parish is 
beautifully diversified. The northern range of the Pentland Hills, 
which is its south-east boundary, rising 1600 feet above the level 
of the sea, forms a fine Alpine back-ground from which the land 
falls in various undulations towards the flats of Corstorphine. 
The descent is arrested towards the north-east by the romantic 
rising-grounds of the fir hill and Craig- Lockhart hill ; while a 
little farther down, it is intersected for nearly three miles, by the 
dell in which the interesting Water of Leith flows. The whole 
scene is beautified by hedge-rows, by the trees which surround 
the houses of heritors and others, and by the denser masses of 
plantation on the lands of Hailes, Colinton House, Redhall, 
Craig- Lockhart, and Dreghorn. There, ever-greens and deci- 
duous trees are blended together, whose various forms and foli- 
age, whether viewed in spring, when their fresh and contrasted 
verdure clothe anew the naked groves, or in autumn, when their 
changing hues sympathize with the yellow fields, and render that 
season. the most attractive in the year, throw a richness and va- 
riety over a landscape scarcely equalled in the vicinity of Edin- 
burgh. Beyond the bounds of the parish are seen the capiial of 
Scotland, with its spires and romantic Castle ; the Frith of Forth 
and the fertile coast of Fife, — the more distant Ochils, and the 
bold Grampians towards the north-west closing the view. 

The arable lands in the parish lie from 250 feet to 600 feet above 
the level of the sea. Some lands have lately been subjected to 
the plough on the farm of Swanston, lying at the east end of the 
Pentland hills, which are perhaps 100 feet higher. The church 
at Colinton stands 300 feet above the level of the sea ; Colinton 
House, 386; Bonally, 482; Dreghorn Castle, 489; Hunter's 
Tryst, 517; Swanston, 616; Caerketan ( vulgo^ Kirkyetton) hill, 
1565 ; and AUermuir hill, 1616. 

Hydrography. — The principal stream in the parish^ the Water of 
Leith, flows through the lower part of it for nearly three miles, 
and though it has no great breadth, being only about 50 feet 
from bank to bank opposite to the manse, it is an important 



COLINTON. 109 

» 

aid to the industry of the parish, within which it is employed 
in sixteen mills and one bleach-field. It has, however, the dis- 
advantage belonging to all small streams, that its supply of water 
is very unequal. There are seasons when the water almost' 
disappears among the stones ; and there are times when the 
swollen torrent rushes along with the power of a giant. In October 
1832, this stream was very heavily flooded for three days, in con- 
sequence of which, twelve dam-heads were injured in its course, 
and the bridge at Slateford, which had stood for seventy years, was 
broken down. It was proposed, some years ago, to form a reservoir 
towards the source of the stream for the treasuring up of the super- 
fluous waters of the wet season, to be again distributed in the time 
of need. But this plan has never been carried into effect. This 
stream flows into the Frith of Forth at Leith, constituting 
the original harbour of that place. — There are also three burns 
in the parish ; the Murray-burn, forming its north-western boun- 
dary till it falls into the Leith at Longstone, a little below Slate- 
ford ; the Braid-burn, which takes its rise chiefly in the hills about 
Bonally and Dreghorn ; and the Burdiehouse-burn, which comes 
down from Swanston. There are, besides these, many excellent 
springs in the lands of Comiston, Swanston, and Dreghorn, from 
which the inhabitants of Edinburgh were long chiefly supplied with 
water. Maitland, in his History of Edinburgh, states on this sub- 
ject, that, in 1621, means were first thought of for bringing in the 
water from Comiston to Edinburgh ; but that nothing was eflec- 
tually done till 1672, when a fire-hearth tax was laid on the town 
by Act of Parliament, in order to raise the necessary fund. In 
1681, Peter Brauss brought in the Tod spring from Comiston, 
at the expense of L. 2900 Sterling, and gave so much satisfaction to 
his employers that ihey gave him a present of L. 50. In 1698, 
the Hare and the Mowbray springs, with all that might be be- 
tween them, were rented from the proprietor of Comiston for a 
season, at L. 18 per annum, and brought also into the good town. 
In later times, to add to the various supplies of water, two ponds 
were formed on the lands of Spylaw, above Bonally, and their con- 
tents directed into the same channel. Since, however, the abun- 
dant waters of the Crawly spring have been carried into Edinburgh 
by a Water Company formed in 1819, these ponds have been su- 
perseded. Still, with all this abundant supply of water, there are 
places in the parish where it is not to be had in sufficient quan> 
tity, though there can be little doubt, that, were it properly sought 



110 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

for, it would generally be obtained. There is no peculiarity in 
the climate of the parish.* 

Geology and Mineralogy* — The geological character of the pa 
rish is varied and interesting. The whole parish is of the second* 
ary formation, interspersed with rocks and minerals in endless va- 
riety. The Pentland Hills are of porphyry, of which the prevailing 
kinds are clayston^ porphyry and felspar porphyry. The gene- 
ral contour of these towajrds the north resembles the Andes, while, 
towards the south, they imitate exactly the aspect of the Malvern 
range in Worcestershire. Caerketan Crags are different in their 
composition from the restof the hills, — the bulk of them being clayey 
felspar, which, but for a strong impregnation with black oxide of iron, 
would be extremely useful to the potter. This is called Petunse 
Pentlandicaj from its resemblance to the Kaoline or Petunse, so va- 
luable in the Chinese potteries, from which the best china is made. 

On the summit of the Pentland Hills, boulders of primitive 
rock, such as granite, gneiss, &c, are met with, whose origin- 
al site is not less distant than sixty miles, viz. at Benlomond and 
Dunkeld. Malactite or green carbonate of copper is found among 
the Pentlands. Jaspers are frequently met with, and some of 
these are very beautiful. A piece of fluor spar was picked up in 
the burn above Bonally, which Professor Jameson does not consi- 
der indigenous, but which, if it were so, would be a subject of mi- 
neralogical interest Craig Lockhart Hill is a fine specimen of 
basaltic rock, studded with some interesting minerals, as Olivine, 
Humboldtite, augite, prehnite, with drusy cavities, zeolite, &c. In 
the bed of the river, immediately below the manse, there is a beau- 
tiful specimen of the ^^ dike" fully exposed, the strata being nearly 
in a vertical position : and about 200 yards above the manse, in a 
cavity in the bed of the river, is a tufa rock, showing that the dis- 
turbance in the strata has proceeded from volcanic influence. A 
little below the dam-head of Colinton barleymill is found, on the 
Hailes side of the stream, an excellent millstone rock. The mill- 
stones, however, require to be built, as the rock cannot be raised 
in pieces sufficiently large to make them entire. The access to 
the quarry is difficult ; and there are not many stones taken out of 
it Indeed, the bed of the Water of Leith in this parish presents 

* « 1652 was a very early year. Com was shorn in June, and harvest finished in 
August, without wait, storm, or tempest. It also produced ripe wine berries and 
grapes, and abundance of Scotts chastanes, opealie sauld at the mercat cross, and baken 
in pasties at Bankittes.*'— NioolPs Diary. 

1826 was a similar season. Com was cut between Colinton and Edinburgh in 
June O. S. ; and in August O. S. harvest was finished. ChestnuU ripened at Criig- 
Lockhart House in this parish. 



COLINTON. Ill 

to the geologist a great variety of very interesting matter. Petrifac* 
tions of wood and shells, impressions of leaves, and, in one instance, 
the impression of a fish have been found in it. There are quar- 
ries of good sandstone or freestone in the parish ; in one of these — 
Hailes quarry — ^masses of sandstone in spherical concretions, are 
found imbedded in the clay which occurs between the freestone 
strata. Curious impressions of plants are also occasionally no- 
ticed in this quarry. Neither coal nor lime are wrought in the 
parish, though some people suppose that there are indications of 
the presence of both. 

The more remarkable birds found here are, the kestril hawk, 
which breeds in the rocks at Craig Lockhart, the brown owl, the 
snowflake, brambling, Bohemian chatterer, long-tailed tit-mouse, 
golden-crested wren, butcher-bird, ring-ousel, water-hen, and 
king's-fisher. Dr Walker, in his account of the parish, says that 
this last bird remains only a few days in the parish; of late, how- 
ever, it has remained for months, nay, it is even surmised that, 
on one occasion, it remained over the summer, and had a nest near 
Slateford. It has been much hunted of late years for the sake of 
its plumage, and has, in consequence, become very rare. It is 
understood that the missel-thrush has here, as elsewhere, very 
much usurped the place of the common thrush. 

Botany. — As the parish is greatly diversified by hill, vale, and 
stream, it is a rich treasure of botanical productions. Some plants, 
both cryptogamous and phenogamous, are very rare. It is unneces- 
sary, however, to enter into any enumeration of these here, as a list of 
all the plants within ten miles of Edinburgh has been long before the 
public. It may be noticed, however, that a small yellow poppy, 
perennial, made its appearance in the manse garden soon after the 
present incumbent took possession, which is said to be found in 
some of the plantings near Woodhall, but whose habitat is the 
mountains of Wales. 

There are plantations around the houses of the heritors and 
at Woodville; on the banks of the river belonging to Wood- 
hall, Spylaw, Colinton House, Hailes, Redhall, and Craig 
Lockhart ; on Craig Lockhart Hill, fir-hill, above Swanston, 
(planted by Mr Trotter of Mortonhall in 1766,) and on the lands 
of Mr Trotter of Dreghom. The plantations on this la^t-men- 
tioned property, which are of considerable extent, and run far up 
the White-hill, are the most recent in the parish, and are in a 
thriving condition. It is remarked, however, that though the soft 
wood in these plantations flourishes well for a time, it soon begins 



1 1 2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

to decay, while the hardi-wood, especially ash and elm, continues 

to thrive. There are two pretty large yew trees in the parish, — 

the one in Woodhall garden, and the other at the manse. In 

Redhall grounds, there are two or three white acacias, as large 

as forest trees. At Col in ton House are several cedars ; the seed 

from which they were raised is said to have been sent here from 

the East, when Mr Drummond was Consul at Aleppo. There 

are also very lofty holly hedges around the gardens connected witn 

the old House of Colinton. There were similar hedges running 

across the centre of Hailes garden, which have been lately cut 

down to the height of ten or twelve feet, for the sake of the garden. 

n. — Civil History. 
Historical Notices.-r-On the barony of Redhall, and not far 

from the site of the present house, there once stood a castle which 
was used as a place of strength, and which proved to have been 
so in former times. Of this house it is stated, that, in 1572, it 
was, with other places about Edinburgh, garrisoned " by the Re- 
gent Marr, and the King's favourers."— ^(Pollock's MSS. Life of 
Napier of Merchiston.) In 1650, this castle endured a regular 
siege from Cromwell's army, of which the following interesting 
account is given by Nicol in his Diary, (Ban. Club.) — " Cromwell 
pushed from Berwick to Oollingtoune, without opposition, until 
he came to the house of Reidhall, within three miles be west Edin- 
burgh. In the whilk house of Reidhall the Laird of Reidhall 
with threescore sodgeris, lay with provisions and keepit and de- 
fendit the house aganes the Englishes, and gallit his sodgeris, and 
put them back several times, with loss of sindry sodgeris. (Civil 
wars of Great Britain and Ireland, say that in Reidhall Lord 
Hamilton and Major Hamilton were taken.) The English Gene- 
ral taking this very greivously that such a waik house sould hald 
out aganes him and be an impediment in his way, he and his airmy 
lying so neir unto it, thairfor he causit draw his cannon to the 
house, and thair, from four hours in the morning till ten in the foir- 
noun that day, he causit the cannon to play on this house, encampit 
a great number of his sodgeris about it with pike and musket, but 
all to lytel purpose ; for the Laird and the pepil in the house de- 
fendit it valiantly ever till thair powder failed : and efter it failed, 
they did not give over, ever lucking for help from our awin army, 
wha was then lying at Crosstorfyn, within three-quarters of ane 
myle to the house : of whas help thai war disappointed. Ge- 
neral Cromwell percaiving their powder to be gone, and that no 



COLINTON. 113 

assistance was given thame^ he causit Pittardis to be brocht to the 
house, quhairwith he blew up the dures, entered the dures and 
windowes, and efter slaughter on both sides, (but much moir to the 
Englishes than to the Scottis), tuik all that were in the house 
prisoners, tirred them naked, seased on all the money and guides' 
that were thairin, quhilk was much, be reason that sindry gentlemen 
about haid put thair guides thair for saiftie. So this house and 
pepil thairin were taken in the sicht and face of our airmie, quha 
thocht it dangerous to hazard thameselves in such ane expeditioun, 
the enemy haiffing the advantage of the ground and hills about 
him for his defence." *' Efter the enemie had taken the Laird of 
Reidhall prisoner, he thaireftir put him to liberty, commending 
much his valour and activitie for balding out so stoutlie aganes him 
that house of Reidhall." 

The Covenanters came from the west to Colinton village 
on 27th November 1666, where they remained all night : on 
the 28th they marched by Ingliston bridge, in the point of Pent- 
land hills ; and the battle of Rullion Green took place that even- 
ing. And in 1745, Prince Charles Edward in his way to Edin- 
burgh took up his abode in the farm-house at Gray's mill imme- 
diately below Slateford, on Monday the 17th September ; whence 
he proceeded next day by Buckstane-head and Newington, to the 
palace of Holyrood House. 

Family ofFoulis. — Foulis of Colinton is the most ancient family 
in the parish. Foulis is supposed to have come to Scotland from 
France (as the name intimates) in the eleventh century, in the reign 
of Malcolm Canmore. The family acquired the lands of Colinton in 
1519. James Foulis of Colinton was made King's Advocate in 1 528, 
and Clerk Register in 1531. He was concerned in all the public 
transactions of his time, was one of the commissioners appointed, 
25th August 1543, to negociate a marriage betwixt Mary Queen 
of Scots and Prince Edward of England, which negociation, how- 
ever, failed ; was appointed one of the members of the College of 
Justice at its institution in 1532, and acted in every situation with 
fidelity and honour. He acquired considerable property. In the 
beginning of the seventeenth century the James Foulis of that pe- 
riod was a favourite with the King, and was, while young, knight- 
ed by him. His son, Alexander Foulis, was created a baronet in 
1634. His son, Sir James, became a Senator of the College of 
Justice in 1661 by the title of Lord Colinton, and was appointed 
Justice- Clerk in 1684; he died in 1688. His son. Sir James 

EDINBURGH. H 



1 14 KDINBUROHSHIRE. 

FouHs, was also raised to the Bench during bis father's lifetime, 
(in 1674,) by the title of Lord Redford. He was a member of the 
last Scottish Parliament, and of the first British one. These two, 
as may well be supposed, from the places which they held, agreed 
with the Court in its views and measures. This ancient and ho- 
nourable family still has a representative in the parish, though 
the lands of Colinton have passed into other hands, the title being 
now enjoyed by Sir James Foulis of Woodhall, Bart., whose an- 
cestor was George, the second son of James Foulis, who held the 
lands of Colinton in 1581. * — John M^Laurin, son of the famous 
Colin M^Laurin, when raised to the Bench, on which he sat for 
eight years, took the title of Lord Dreghom, from a small pro- 
perty which he held in this parish. The touching and impressive 
inscription which he caused to be put upon the south-west comer 
of Greyfriars Church, Edinburgh, in memory of his father^ de^ 
serves to be inserted : 

Infra situs est 
Colin M^Laurin, 
Mathes. olim. in Accad. Edin. Prof, electus suo Newtono suadente> 

H. L. P. F. 
Non ut nomini paterno consulate 
Nam tali auzilio nil eget ; 
Sed ut in hoc infelici campo. 
Ubi Luctus regnant et pavor, 
Mortalibus prorsus non absit Solatium, * 
Hujus enim Scripta evolve, 
Mentemque tantarum rerum Capacem, 
Corpore caduco superstitem crede ! 

The parish is still connected with the College of Justice, by 
the residence at Bonally, of the Honourable Lord Cockburn, who 
was nrised to the Bench in 1834. 

Dr Alexander Monro, Secundus, who taught anatomy and sur- 
gery most successfully in the University of Edinburgh for the 
long space of forty years, maintaining and advancing the celebrity 
of that University as a school of medicine, purchased the proper- 

* Foulis of Co/tn^on.— •This family seems at one time to have possessed nearly the 
whole of the parish of Hailes. 1609, James Foulis de Collingtoune was ratified in 
the lands of Collingtoune, Swanston, Dreghorn, Boneyley, Baddis, Pitmure OzgangSy 
Comiston, Reidhall. 1641, Sir Alexander Foulis is ratified in Collingtoun Ozgangs, 
the vicarage of Hailes, in the teinds of town and lands of Craiglockhart Ozganga, 
- portions of Boneyiey, Dreghorn, and Swanston. 1661, July 12, anent Lord CoU 
lingtoun*s losses, inter alia, in 1650, his whole tenement, tennant-houses, homes, 
byres, and luul onsets,, in the town and lands of New Mains, Craiglockhart, and 
Benbridge, burned by the Usurper's army, L. 4000 Scots. The whole of his plenish- 
ing within the manor place of Collingtoun, burnt or taken away, all the doors and 
windows, iron work, and much of the loftein and roof were burned, pulled down, 
destroyed, or taken away, by the said Usurpers, and that he had several other houses 
destroyed, and much of his planting cut, all estimated to L. 10,000 Scottis, his corns 
destroyed, estimated at L. 3083 Scotts.— Acts of Scottish Parliament. 



COUNTON. 115 

ty of Craig Lockhart, in this parish, about 1780. Although he had 
no residence on the lands, he took great pleasure in adorning them, 
and frequently betook himself to country occupations, as a cheer- 
ing and useful recreation. He died in 1817. The property still 
remains with his eldest son, and successor in the Anatomical chair. 

A small part of the lands of Colinton, containing the site of the 
old house, was purchased towards the end of the last century, by 
Sir William Forbes of Pitsligo, Bart. Banker in Edinburgh, a man 
distinguished not more by his manners and accomplishments, than 
by the integrity of his character, and the enlarged beneyolence of 
his heart. He wrote an able and interesting life of Dr Beattie, 
with whom he had been intimate for forty years. He died in 1806, 
leaving for the public good his mantle on his family, who have 
nobly maintained the reputation of their Either. His grandson, 
Professor James D. Forbes, now holds the Natural Philosophy 
Chair in the University of Edinburgh, with honour to himself 
and advantage to the students : and with him the parish feels ho- 
noured in being connected. 

James Gillespie, founder of the hospital in Edinburgh which 
bears his name, is supposed to have been a native of Roslin. He 
became a tobacconist in Edinburgh ; and by the exercise of pa- 
tient industry and frugality, at a favourable time, he acquired con- 
siderable wealth, and purchased the property of Spylaw, in this pa- 
rish, where he spent the close of his days. He left the greater 
part of his fortune for the endowment of a charitable school, and 
of an hospital for the lodging and maintenance of old men and wo- 
men. The hospital was opened in 1802. Fourteen mal^s and 
eighteen females are maintained in it, who are comfortably lodged 
and fed. The free school was opened in 1803^ and in it 150 boys 
are instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic. 

iMnd-'Owners. — The parish is divided among 1 1 proprietors, viz. 

Rentals. 

Alexander Trotter of Dr^hora, Esq. having of valued rent, . L.729 

Sir Thomas Gibson Carmicbael of Hailes, Bart. 658 14 1 

Richard Trotter of (MortoDhaU)Swanston, Esq. 55Q 

Sir James Forrest df Comiston, Bart. . 536 

John Inglis of Redhall, Esq. . • 535 1 4 

Sir James Foulis of Woodhall, Bart. . . 444 9 10 

Gillespie*s Hospital, proprietor of Spylaw, . • 430 13 6 
Dr Alexander Monro, Professor of Anatomy in the University of Edin* 

burgh, of Craig Lockhart, ... 333 6 8 

Sir John S. Forbes of Pitsligo and Fettercairn, Bart of Colinton House, 162 

J. Home Rigg, Esq. of Colinton Mains, . . . 130 

Andrew Grieve, W. S. of Hole Mill, . . . 3 4 7 



Amount of valued rent, • L.4514 10 



116 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Alexander Trotter, Esq., John Inglis, Esq., Sir James Foulis, 
Bart and Dr Monro, reside in the parish, at least during the sum- 
mer, sometimes throughout the whole year. To this list of resi- 
dents the name of Sir James Forrest, Bart, ought perhaps to be 
added, though for the present his duties as Chief- Magistrate of 
Edinburgh have withdrawn him from the country. Sir John S. 
Forbes, though he has ceased to occupy Colinton House, still, 
with all the generosity of his family, delights in doing good in the 
place which he has left; — his benevolence falls on many a needy 
one, as dew upon the tender herb.* 

Families from Edinburgh often reside in this parish during the 
summer months. Most of these, however, are transient visitors. 
But there are two whose connexion with the parish is more perma- 
nent. Dr W. P. Alison, Professor of the Theory of Medicine in 
the University of Edinburgh, resides at Woodville, a small but pret- 
ty property ; the remainder of a very long lease of which was pur- 
chased by himself and his father, the late Rev. Archibald Alison, 
LL. B. of St Paul's Chapel, Edinburgh, about seven years ago ; 
and Alexander Clapperton, Esq. merchant in Edinburgh, who, with 
his family, resides regularly during summer at Spy law Bank, a small 
farm which he has in lease from Gillespie's Hospital, and to the 
house on which he has this season made a comfortable addition. 

Parochial Registers^ Reader^ ffc, at Hailes. — From a register 
of ministers (Maitland Club,) we learn that, in 1576, Alexander 

* Hailcs.— 1592. The kirklands of the kirk of Hailles, pertaining sometime to 
the preceptoryof Sanstanthone* with glebe, mansef house, biggings, and all other per- 
tinents ratified to the clerk of registration, and Mr John Hay, his son.^Acts of Scot- 
tish Parliament. 

Redhall 7th April, 4th year, Robert II. (1875,) Mejgmers conTeyed to Robert* 

Earl of Fife, ^nd Monteith; (the King*s son,) his bcu-ony de RedehaU, except the 
lands de Drcghorne and de Woodhall, which had been given to others.— Index of 
Charters under Great Seal. 

1535.~Adam Ottirburn, Provost of Edinburgh, 1538. A. O. of ReidhaU. 1616. 
Sir Thomas Ottirburn of Reidhall, had an only daughter, "who married Sir James 
Hamilton of Uoperig. Knight, on whom, and thdr heirs-male, Redhall was settled. 
1672. John Christy of Dairy possessed Redhall. 1681. James Brand, vounger of 
Baberton, was ratified in these lands. (This family called their whole property 
Castle Brand, by which denomination it is mentioned in the old parish registers.) 
The cwditors of George Brand sold Redhall to John Davidson, W.S. in 1749. Mr 
Inglis bought it in 1755. and resumed the old name of Redhall.— Acts of Scottish 
Parliament, and information from present proprietor. 

Woodhall. — 1663. Cunnyngbame of Cunn3mghame,— head heir of 92 oxgangs of 
Woodhall and Bonally, in the barony of Reidlmll. 1672. John Cunnyngbame of 
Enterkim ratified in 92 oxgaits of land old extent of W^oodhall and Bonally .^^Acts 
of Scottish Parliament. 

Craig Lockhart— 1690, 17th February. The hmds of Crais Lockbart were by 
Act of Parliament disjoined from the parish of West Kirk, and added to Ihe parish of 
Hailcs. 1662, dd September. Sir John Gilmour of Craigmillar, president of the Col- 
lege of Justice, ratified in the lands of Craig Lockhart, with the tour, fortalice, manor 
place, &c«— Acts of Scottish Parliament. 



COLINTON. 117 

Forrester was Reader at Haillis, *^ his stipend xiiili. xs. and 9d. to- 
gidder with the vicarage pensionarie of Haillis, to be payit out of 
the thrid of the Hospitale of Sanstanthonis in Leitb/' 

From records of the Kirk of Scotlapd 1639) we find that Wil- 
liam Ogstane, minister at Colingtoune, had been deposed in 1638, 
for deserting of his flock, causing his people after a superstitious 
way to sit on their knees when he examined them, meddling with 
the poor folk's box, &c. and that his case was in 1689 referred to 
the Commission that was to be appointed. 

The parochial registers are contained in seven volumes, which are 
all in good condition. These volumes contain the proceedings of the 
kirk-session, the distributions made to the poor, and the minutes of 
the heritors, of which last there are very few; but since 1716, the 
poor's matters have been separately recorded, and since 1757, 
the minutes of the heritor's meetings. The registers of marriages, 
baptisms, and burials, have always been kept in separate volumes. 
The first minute of session wants the date, but it mentions the re- 
turn of the minister from Fife, whither he had fled about a year 
before, in consequence of Cromwell's victory at Dunbar, dd Sep- 
tember 1650, and the next minute is 14th September 1651. 
These records are minutely kept until July 1733^ between which 
date and 1746, the payments made to the poor only are recorded. 
From that period till 1783, matters of discipline are again intro- 
duced; but thereafter, until 1823, very few entries appear on the 
record. From these books it appears that since 1650, the thir- 
teenth minister is now in possession of the cure of Colinton. 1. 
John Charteris ; 2. Robert Bennet, admitted 1659, desisted 
preaching 1681 ; 3. Thomas Murray, admitted 1682, left 1685; 
4. Samuel Nimmo, admitted 1686, deposed by General Commis- 
sion of the church 1691 ; 5. James Thomson, ordained 1694, 
translated to Elgin 1696 ; 6. Thomas Paterson, ordained 1697, 
translated to West-kirk 1699; 7. Walter Allan, ordained 1700; 
8. George Gibson, ordained 1733; 9. John Hyndman, 1746, 
translated to West-kirk 1752; 10. Robert Fisher, from Lauder, 
1753; 11. Dr John Walker from Moffat, 1783; 12. John Fleming, 
from Carrington, 1804; 1 a L. Balfour, from Sorn, 1823. With the 
minister in 1651, returned the schoolmaster, and since that period 
the sixteenth schoolmaster is at present in possession of the charge. 
Of the first, John Craw, it is stated that he was deposed in 1655 
for brewing and selling drink in the school-house, ^^ so near the 
kirk and minister's yett." From these records we learn that there 



1 18 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

were always elders Id the parish, even during the most troublous 
times ; that the elders who collected, did thereafter during divine 
worship visit the village of Colinton, and sometimes the more dis- 
tant villages, to correct abuses : that the collections were good, 
the poor on the funds few, and the money so abundant, that some 
of the heritors borrowed from the session to pay their proportion 
of expenses in repairing the church, while they seem to have for- 
go tt en to repay: that in 1680, two silver cups to be used in the 
communion were bought out of the session funds, the one inscrib- 
ed, ^ The cup of blessing which we bless, is it not the communion 
of the blood of Christ ? I am the vine, ye are the branches ;" 
and the other, ^' This cup is the New Testament in my blood 
which was shed for you. I am the Vine, &c. ;" on both it b 
stated that they belong to '^ the kirk -session of Collingtoune :" 
that the kirk-session gave authority to erect seats in the area of 
the church ; that under date 12th September 1680, it is stated that 
some parishioners, having been displeased with the erection of a 
seat in the body of the church, though allowed by the kirk-session, 
applied to that body to have the nuisance removed, but the ses- 
sion determine ^^ that they can do nothing in the matter without 
the bishop and the Presbytery," (N.6. This is the only instance 
where the bishop is alluded to in the records ;) that there was no 
meeting of kirk-session from January 1662 till March 1663^ '*by 
reason that all the kirk-sessions of the Church of Scotland were 
dischai^d by a public declaration of the King's Majesty :'' that 
in 1679, the communion was delayed by reason of the troublous 
times, the country being in confusion in consequence of the fight 
of Both well Bridge : that in 1677, on a complaint, the kirk-ses- 
sion pass an act prohibiting the lending out of the communion 
tables and forms for the use of penny weddings : that the sacra- 
ment was not dispensed in the parish from 1688 till 1702, for 
which no reason is assigned : and that during the whole of the 
period included in these volumes there has been only one Presby- 
terial visitation of the parish which took place on the 8th June 
1714. The following notices are curious : 1680, February 8, A 
woman is taken up on suspicion of having murdered her illegiti- 
mate child, and the matter is enquired into : <^ There is one thing 
(say the minutes) very observable in that business, that when the 
mother laid her hand upon the child's nose, there came a little 
blood from it, which was seen by many present." This refers to 
the superstitious idea which used to prevail, that a murdered body 

4 



. COLINTON. 1 1 9 

would bleed when touched by the murderer. The poor creature 
was delivered over to the public prosecutor, tried, condemned, and 
executed in the Grassmarket on the 15th day of August, the same 
year. 1714, November 9, Isabel Colquohun was summoned to 
the session for disturbing her neighbours in time of sermon. Hav- 
ing appeared, she stated, ^^ that she being the oldest possessor of 
a chair in the body of the kirk, she thought that the neighbours 
in Bonally should have more respect to her than to toss her chair 
up and down the kirk, as they often did, and that all the noise she 
had made was to get back her chair where it had stood three-score 
years; but that she was sorry, &c." — She was rebuikit 

Antiquities. — " On the lands of Comiston once stood the re- 
mains of a large encampment Adjacent to this camp, and near 
the house of Fair-mile*head, an extensive and important battle had 
been fought, and two very large conical cairns erected ; on demolish- 
ing which for t4c purpose of making the turnpike road, remains of 
human bones were found in them, and several fragments of old 
arms, two of which are still in the possession of Mr Trotter of 
Mortonhail, the proprietor of the ground. Not far from these 
cairns there had been erected an upright pillar stone, which still 
remains. It is a rude massy block of whinstone, of a flat shape, 
'^ nine feet" above the surface of the ground, and four feet below it 
It is called the Kel Stane, an old British word signifying the battle 
stone. It has also passed immemorially by the name of Camus 
Stone, which would seem to intimate its connection with some Da- 
nish commander." The Roman road which extended from York 
to Carriden near Abercorn, passed through Comiston farm, and 
the high road between the toll and Bow Bridge, is very nearly on the 
line which it followed. The ruins of a small fortalice stand beau- 
tifully situated at the north base of Craig Lockhart hill. Part of 
the cover of a stone coffin was lately taken out of the rubbish 
in. the floor of the church. It bears on it the rude outlines of 
a sword and mace, the latter consisting of a simple handle, and end- 
ing in four circles, meeting in a common centre. 

Inscription on a tablet in the aisle of Colinton church : — here. 

LYIS . ANB . HONOKABIL . VOMAN . A . HIRIOT . SPOVS . TO . I . 
FOVLIS . OF . COLLINGTOVN . VAS . QVHA . DIED . 8 . AVGVST . 

1593. 

Modem Buildings* — Colinton House was built at a very con- 
siderable expense about the beginning of this century, by the late 
Sir William Forbes, Bart It stands on the brow of the lawn, and 



120 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

looks over a fine expanse of country to the north and east The old 
house has been converted very adroitly into a decorative ruin, which 
has attached to it two old fashioned gardens, flanked and divided 
by the lofty holly hedges already referred to. Dreghorn Castle 
was built about the same time ^th Colinton House, by Alexander 
Trotter, Esq. It is embosomed among trees, some of which are 
stately beeches belonging to the olden times, but the greater propor- 
tion have been planted by the present proprietor, and are in a very 
thriving condition. These are built of hewn freestone. Co- 
miston House, the residence of Sir James Forrest, Bart was 
built in 1815. And Craig Lockhart House was built by Dr 
Monro, about fifteen years ago. It is sweetly situated on the 
verge of the sloping wooded bank which runs down to the Wa* 
ter of Leith. Lord Cockburn having feued a portion of land 
from Gillespie's Hospital, at the foot of the Pentland hills, and 
having greatly ornamented the place, built as an addition to the 
small house at Bonally, a Peel Tower, which was finished this sea- 
son. It is situate in a hollow, commands the pass through the hills, 
and has a most interesting air. It is the lion of the parish. 

III. — Population. 
Before the middle of the seventeenth century this parish ap- 
pears to have had but few inhabitants. Their number, however, 
continued rather on the increase till the time of the seven years 
famine, that is, fropi the year 1695 till 1702, during which pe- 
riod it is said to have much diminished. In an information 
presented to the Court of Teinds in 1709, this parish was. said to 
contain 318 examinable persons ; if to these a third part be added 
for unexaminable persons, the whole inhabitants would appear to 
have then amounted to 424. From a record in possession of the 
church, it appears that about the year 

1750, the population amounted to 782 
1755, by DrWebstert report, 792 
1791, - . - 1896 

1801, - . - 1392 

1811, - . - 1605 

1821, . - . 2019 

1831, ... 2232 

Of this last number 1076 were males ; and 1156 females. 

The population has since decreased, the amount in 1838 being 
1982. The cause of this diminution, perhaps, is to be found in the 
facts, that the extra work on many of the farms has been completed; 
that in Hailes Quarry, many fewer hands afo employed of late, while 
Redhall Quarry is not wrought ; and that machinery has been intro- 
duced into three of the paper-mills, producing a great diminution in 



COLINTON. 121 

the number of hands required. The population is divided among 
five considerable villages, as many hamlets, and various small knots 
of houses connected with farms and mills. The villages are, 

Colinton» contaioing 61 men, 58 women ; total, 119 
Swanston, - 49 men. 54 women; do. 103 

Juniper Green, 166 men, 172 women ; do. 338 
Hailes Quarry, - 69 men, 76 women; do. 145 
Slateford, - 95 men, 116 women; do. 21 J 

Dr Walker says in the old Account, that in this parish, the re- 
gisters of baptisms and marriages have been regularly keptsince 1 655 ; 
and that of burials since 1 728. This continues to be the case. On- 
ly, it must be observed, that many of the Seceders do not register 
the baptism of their children ; and that individuals who die in the 
parish are sometimes buried elsewhere, and consequently are not re- 
gistered here. This last source of error in any calculation, founded 
on the register of burials, is understood to be compensated by the 
burials which take place here firom other parishes. 

The births from 1827 to 1836 inclusive, were 241 males, 227 
females, in all ^168 ; of these 27 were still-born, or died before 
being baptised ; 10 were twins, and 12 were illegitimate. The 
burials in the same ^ears am6unted to 429; of these 182 were 
under twelve years of age ; and 71 were seventy years old and up- 
wards. The marriages during the same period amounted to 127. 

The number of families in the parish is 440 ; (he average num- 
ber of individuals to each family is 4^. There are in the parish 
445 houses, and there are 52 dwelling places empty. 

There is, at present, only one pauper lunatic connected with 
the parish, and two residing in it There are 2 blind persons, 2 
fatuous, and 1 deaf and dumb. 

There are no customs peculiar to the parish. The people are 
on the whole attentive to cleanliness, dress well on the Sabbath, 
and, if they would act aright, have the comforts and advantages of 
society in a reasonable degree. They are not generally given to 
reading. Some years ago an attempt was made to cherish the prac- 
tice, by introducing among them itinerating libraries, — the 6rst 
year's expense having been kindly defrayed by a friend. But the 
experiment came to a close at the end of the fourth year, when 
the money drawn from the readers' was not equal to the hire of 
the books. One vice prevails greatly among the people, which 
eats out a man's heart, and renders him indiiferent to religion, to 
knowledge, and to his nearest and dearest friends, viz. the drinking 
of ardent spirits. It was ascertained that the drinking portion of the 
working classes in the parish must have spent L. 2300 for spirits in 



122 EDiNDURGUSillKE. 

1834. How ruinous is that appetite which withdraws so large a sum 
in so small a society from ministering to its comfort and improve- 
mentr With the view of correcting this great evil, a Tempe- 
rance Society was formed in the parish in the end of 1830. 
This brought much to the knowledge of the people, concerning 
the extent and consequences of drinking, of which they had previ- 
ously been wholly unaware, and was productive of red good even 
to those who did not join it But the novelty of the thing wore 
off, the lover of drink returned to it again, and though the society 
still exists, its influence is little felt beyond the range of those who 
have conscientiously entered it ; while the evil practice is spread* 
ing its influence even among the female part of our population. 
Need it be wondered at, that, among those who thus serve their ap- 
petites, the truth makes but a feeble impression ? that many turn 
away from it altogether, and that the concerns of time usurp that 
place in the thoughts which is due only to those of eternity. Still 
there are many whose conduct is regular and becoming, and who 
value the truth as it is in Christ. 

It is understood that much poaching goes on in the parish^ 
though the poachers are believed to be chiefly visitors from other 
places. 

IV. — Industry.* . 

The parish contains about 5070 acres ; of these there are in tillage, or fit for tillage^ 
though in pasture, - . .... 8436 acres. 

In hill pasture, . • 1356 

planting, . • . . 278 

Total, 5070 acres. 

There is no undivided common in the parish. 

llie arable land may be valued at L. 8246 8 per annum, 

pasture at . .... 922 2 

In all, L. 8568 10 
Besides 278 acres in wood. 

This parish, reaching in its north-east direction to within about 
two miles of Edinburgh, probably contains a greater variety of 
land than any other at a similar distance from the city. This 
arises from its extending southward to the summit of the Pent- 
land hills, and thus including in its bounds not only the level 
fields which stretch out from the bottom of the bills, but also the 
most part of the northern face of the northern range. There is, 
however, little of the land capable of improvement, if any, that has 
not already been submitted to the plough and harrow ; and much 

• Furnished by Mr Scott, farmer, Craig Lockhart. 



COLINTON. 123 

has been done within the last twenty years towards its general im- 
provement, by deep draining, and a judicious system of cropping. 
Rent. — The arable land, from the difference of soil and situation 
already alluded to, varies in rent from about lu 1, 4s. to L. 3, 19s. 
6d. per imperial acre ; but the average may be stated at L. 2, 8s. 
The pasture lands on the Pentland hills, of which there are about 
1308 acres, let at about 4s. 9d. per acre ; while the other pasture 
lands, which, with the exception of Craig Lockhart hills, consist 
of enclosures connected with villas, or the houses of the heritors, 
let at from L. 1, 12s. to L. 3, 4s. per acre. There is no such 
thing known in the parish as letting pasture land at so much per 
ox or sheep. 

Husbandry. — The rotation of cropping on the arable landin gene- 
ral is, 1. potatoes, turnips, or beans ; 2. wheat or barley ; 3. hay ; 4. 
oats. But of late years, from the low price of grain or hay, and the 
comparatively high price of fat stock, a disposition has been shown 
on some farms to introduce for the third crop, two years of pasture, 
in place of the hay crop, making the rotation five in place of four 
years. Very few cattle are reared in the parish, and equally few 
• sheep, except on farms containing portions of the Pentland hills, 
where the Cheviot breed are kept, and on Craig Lockhart, where 
a few Leicesters are kept. On other farms, where occasionally 
turnips are consumed on ground, stock is purchased for that pur- 
pose. 

Potatoes form the greatest breadth of green crop, for which 
Edinburgh affords a near and ready market ; while it also yields 
the principal supply of manure, at about 4s. per ton, exclusive of 
toll and carriage. Of this manure, from 24 to 32 tons are gene> 
rally laid upon the acre for green crops. 

Both bone and rape dust have been tried as manures. But 
where good dung can be had it is preferable to either ; at the same 
time, when that article cannot easily be obtained, they prove valu- 
able substitutes. 

Although a great deal has already been done by deep draining 
to improve the soil, yet, as a great part of the parish is recumbent 
on clay, much may yet be done by furrow draining, and the use of 
the subsoil plough, to increase its productive powers. 

Wages, — The wages of a married ploughman per annum are, cash 
L. 16, oatmeal 65 stones, potatoes 12 cwt with four weeks' meat in 
harvest, free house and garden, and coals driven. Those able to 
stack' and sow, get L. 1 or K 2 per annum more. Farm -labour- 



i24 KDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ers receive 10s. per week in the summer, and 9s, in ?nnter. But 
old and infirm men are always to be bad for less ; and able bodied 
men wha work in quarries get higher wages. Women and boys 
who work in the fields at bowing, &c receive 9d. per day ; but in 
the time of harvest and of lifting potatoes, their wages are regulat- 
ed by the hiring market, which is held in Edinburgh every Mon- 
day morning during the season. Wrights and masons earn from 
2s. to ds. a day ; blacksmiths generally work by the piece. They 
charge L. 3 per annum for shoeing a pair of horses, and keeping 
the plough and harrow, &c in repairs. 

Leases^ 8fc* — The land is let on leases varying from twelve to nine- 
teen years; but any lease under nineteen years is unfavourable to both 
landlord and tenant, as it invariably prevents the liberal investment 
of capital in improvement. The fences are generally good, partly 
thorn hedges, partly stone dikes. The farm-steadings are mostly 
very old, with thatched or tiled roofs, affording very indifferent 
accommodation when compared with those which have been re- 
cently built. In one or two instances, however, where new stead- 
ings have been erected, more attention has been paid to comforta- 
ble accommodation, and the roofs have been slated. A steam- 
engine for driving the thrashing-mill is found at Bonally steading, 
lately erected, and belonging to Gillespie's Hospital. 

Quarries. — There are two good quarries of freestone in the parish, 
the one on the lands of Hailes, the other on those of Bedhall. In 
Hailes quarry, the stone is of a slaty structure, and divides easily into 
thin portions forming excellent materials for the steps of stairs, and 
the pavemeni of lobbies, and of the foot-ways in the streets, for which 
purposes it is very eztepsively used ; while the smaller portions are 
employed in ruble work. It is wrought to a great depth, about 90 
feet, being kept free from water by a steam-engine which was erect- 
ed in 1787, and is very productive. In 1825, when building in 
Edinburgh was pushed to a great extent, there were daily sent 
into that city from the quarry, 600 carts of stones ; and the land- 
lord, Sir Thomas Gibson Carmichael, Bart, who receives from the 
tacksman, a lordship of lis. in the pound, drew from it that 
year about L. 9000. But, in consequence of the building having 
been then overdone, for many years past not more than 60 or 70 
carts of stones a day have been sent into town, and the produce to 
the landlord at present is only about L. 1500 a year. The Red 
hall quarry is a yellowish freestone. The bare is considerabloi 
and the working expensive, so that the landlord receives only 

8 



COLINTON. 125 

6s« 8d. per pound of lordship. Neyertheless, it was actively quar- 
ried in 1825} and yielded for a season a considerable rent It has 
not been wrought for some time. A third quarry, where the stone 
resembled that found in Redhall quarry, was opened in Hailes 
grounds, opposite to the house. But, after being wrought for a 
short time, it was deserted. 

Milk. — The Water of Leith is a most serviceable drudge, and is 
by no means spared. There are at present 16 mills driven by it 
within the parish, and a seventeenth is in the course of building. 
In ten of these, flour, meal, or barley are prepared for the market ; 
in four, paper is made,— «a manufacture which has been carried on 
in the parish for more than a century ; and three manufacture 
snuff. There was some years ago a fourth, which was employed 
in grinding snuff, but it has not been used of late ; the new mill, 
which is in the course of being erected, is to be employed for that 
purpose. At one of the mills there is also machinery for grinding 
magnesia, &c ; at another, for sawing wood ; and at a third, for 
beating hemp and foreign lint. 

At Inglis Green, immediately below Slateford, there is an exceU 
lent bleachfield, under the direction of Mr M^Whirter. But the 
plan of bleaching all within 'doors prevails now so universally, that 
the bleachfield does not yield the return which is necessary to re- 
ward the industry and care for which it calls. The rents of the 
mills as well as of the quarries add very considerably to the value 
of the parish. There is a small mill-wright business at Colinton, 
giving employment to three or four hands. Spinning has almost 
wholly disappeared. Thus the old are cut off from the employ- 
ment, within the power of age and suited to its disposition, of 
** drawing out a thread wi' little din ;" which used to keep time 
from being a burden, and to supply with the necessaries of life. 
There is but one weaver in the parish, whose work is not abun- 
dant. The washing of clothes is carried on to some extent, espe- 
cially in the village of Swanston. 

With the view of stimulating to improvement in the cultivation of 
vegetables, fruits, and flowers, a Gardener's Society, which awards 
small prizes to the most successful cultivators, was instituted four 
years ago. It consists at present of 18 members, and meets in 
this parish once a fortnight from April to November. The result 
has been favourable. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Edinburgh is the nearest market-town to the parish. There is a 



126 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

post-office at CoIiDtoD, and another at Slateford, at which there are 
arrivals and departures twice a-day. Two branches of the turnpike 
road intersect the parish, — the one on the north goingon to Lanark, 
the other, on the south, joining the Biggar road at Fair-mile-head. 
Their whole length within the parish is nearly eight miles. Pa- 
rochial roads, well kept through the judicious application of the 
Statute labour money, perfect the means of communication in 
this parish. There are no tolls within the parish. The Lanark 
coach, and a noddy from Currie, pass through that portion of it 
traversed by the Lanark road. There are four bridges within the 
bounds. One on the Biggar road at Bow Bridge ; a very roman- 
tic one over Braid^burn, at the gate entering into the Dreghorn 
grounds; one over the Leith at Colinton; and the fourth over 
the same stream at'Slateford. This last was rebuilt in 1833; it 
is flat, broad in the roadway, light and handsome in its appear* 
ance, doing great credit to the gentlemen of the trust under whose 
care it was erected. The Union Canal, completing the connex- 
ion between Edinburgh and Glasgow, was opened in 1822. It 
enters the parish at Slateford, being carried over the valley of the 
water of Leith at that place, by a lofty aqueduct of eight arches, 
and it passes along the lower side of it for about two miles and 
a half. The parish by means of the Canal is supplied with coals 
from the west 

Ecclesiastical State. — A young friend has furnished me with the 
following statement concerning the antiquity of the church here : 
'^ The church of Hailes is very ancient. The lands of Hailes were 
granted to the Monks at Dunfermline by Ethelred, one of the sons of 
Malcolm Canmore, and confirmed to them by his brother, David L 
and by Pope Gregory in 1234. The vicarage of Hailes, (for, not be- 
ing held by the occupying incumbent, but by a bishop, it was never 
a rectory,) was taken from these monks, and given first to the Ca- 
nons at Holyrood and then to the Canons of St Anthony at Leith, 
and confirmed by the famous Bishop Kennedy of. St Andrews in 
1445. This piece of prelatical revenge, as the story goes, was 
occasioned by these monks not having furnished the Bishop's table 
with wine when he sojourned with them at the Abbey. The su- 
periority of the lands of Wester Hailes remained with the canons 
till the Reformation : that of Easter Hailes remained with the 
monks of Dunfermline till the same period. The lands seem to 
have been the property of Lord Crichton, and to have been for- 



COLINTON. 127 

feited in 1484. The tithes at one time belonged to Lord Car- 
lyle." — (See Reg. St Andrews and Parliam. Bee.) 

The patronage of this church was long held by the femily of 
Lauderdale, but how it came into their hands I cannot learn. They 
never seem to have had property in the parish. 1661, April 9. — 
An act was passed in favour of John, Earl of Lauderdale, restor- 
ing what had been taken from him during the period of the Com- 
monwealth, on which occasion Sir James Foulis of Collingtoun 
protests, ^* that this shall be in nowise prejudicial to his rights 
anent the patronage of the kirk of Hailes or Collingtoun." — (Acts 
of Scot. Pari.) — " Collingtoun protested that this should not pre- 
judge bis right to the town of Hailes." — ( App.) This patronage 
was sold by Lord Lauderdale in 1828 to the Patronage Society 
for the large sum of L. 2000. The price was paid by a num- 
ber of gentlemen, who held the patronage as their security. The 
society, with its auxiliaries, had raised, it is understood, L. 1500, 
when the General Assembly, in 1835, passed the Act upon Calls, 
which soon put an end to the labours of that society. Some of the 
gentlemen who had advanced the money having become anxious 
to have the whole repaid, the patronage was again advertised for 
sale, and it has been bought for something more than L. 400 by 
Mr Dunlop of Brockloch, in Ayrshire. 

Some have stated, on what grounds I know not, that the church 
once stood where the mansion-house of Hailes at present stands. 
It has long, however, occupied a more humble and more beautiful 
position. It stands, and has stood since 1650, on a piece of ground 
by which the stream winds beautifully, and which is sheltered and 
adorned by the high and wooded banks belonging to Colinton House. 
In 1771, the old church having become quite ruinous, it was rebuilt 
in a plain manner. In 1817, it was found necessary to put a new 
roof on the church, and to raise the walls four feet This was done 
at a considerable expense. In 1 835, the whole seating of the church 
requiring to be renewed, and the accommodation being much too 
small for the population, (it contained only 470 sittings), it was 
proposed to enlarge as well as to reseat it After some delay, 
necessarily arising out of the various arrangements which re- 
quired to be made, the plan was happily accomplished, and the 
church was reopened for public worship on the 3 1st December 
1837. David Bryce, Esq. architect, Edinburgh, gave the plans 
and superintended fhe erection. The external appearance is neat, 
though very plain ; while internally it has a light and elegant look, 



1 28 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

which gives universal satisfaction. The church is now seated for 
about 664. A heating apparatus has been fitted up in it by Mr 
Robert Ritchie, Edinburgh, which is found effectually to answer 
the end proposed. The tower also, which was too low for the 
church, has been raised according to a plan kindly furnished gratis, 
by Mr Bryce, and adds greatly to the appearance of the whole. 
The heritors alone paid for the repairs on the church ; but the 
raising of the tower and the heating apparatus were obtained by 
means of a subscription. A new bell has since been added, com* 
pleting the arrangements. The sittings of the church are divided 
among the heritors as usual. But the sittings employed at the 
time of the communion for that service are left in the hands of the 
kirk-session for the benefit of the people ; of these there are about 
80. Four silver cups belong to the kirk-session for the use of 
the parish, at the dispensation of the Lord's Supper ; two were 
purchased in 1680, and two were given by the widow of Dr Wal- 
ker in 1808. Two damask towels are also in the possession of 
the session given in 1706, by David Pitcaim of Dreghorn, on his 
getting a seat in church, and a burial-ground assigned to him. At the 
opening of the church in 1837, there were presented two beauti- 
ful damask towels to be used at baptisms, by one lady, and a 
beautiful damask table-cloth with two towels corresponding, to be 
used in dispensing the communion, by another lady ; as is fully 
narrated in the session records. The position of the church is 
sufficiently centrical for the population of the parish, nobody be- 
ing at a greater distance than two and a half miles. There are 
two benefactions to the parish, proper to be here noticed. The 
late Samuel Anderson of Moredun, Esq. after residing some time 
at Hailes, placed in the hands of the kirk-session L. 100, with 
directions to expend the interest thereof at every returning new 
year, on meal, to be divided among the industrious poor. And 
the late Rev. John Fleming of Craigs, minister [of Colinton, left 
a sum for the education of poor children, which, after deducting 
charges, amounted to L. 216. The money is in the custody of 
the kirk-session, the patronage in the hands of those five tenants 
who pay the highest rents. 

The present manse was built for Dr Walker, in 1784 ; was re- 
paired, altered, and had new offices erected, while Mr Fleming 
held the cure; and, being too small for the accommodation of a 
family, had a very useful addition made to it 'during the last va- 
cancy. It now forms a very comfortable dwelling. It is beauti- 



COLINTOK. 129 

fully situated on a flat piece of ground lying between the church 
and the river, and extending to about three-quarters of a Scots 
acre. The glebe, which is at a short distance from the manse, 
consists of about 7 acres, 3 roods, 20 poles, and is at present 
let at L. 27 per annum. The stipend consists of wheat, 92 
bushels, 3 pecks, 7^% pints : barley^ 355 bushels, 1 peck, 1 gallon, 
5/^ pints; oats, 573 bushels, 3 pecks, 1 gallon, 5^^^ pints ; meal, 
33 cwt. 32 lbs. 13 oz. lj% dwt. ; and money, L. 20, 3s. 6jgd. The 
average value of the whole for the last ten years is L. 221. 

There is a chapel at Slateford connected with the United As* 
sociate Synod. It was built in 1774, and is seated for 520. There 
is a dwelling-house and garden prettily situated on the river side 
appropriated to the use of the minister. His allowance, which is 
chiefly drawn from the seat rents, is L. 130 per annum. The 
debt upon the house is about L. 200, but there is no wish on the 
part of the managers to have this diminished. 

The number of families in the parish is 440; of these, 269 
are connected with the church, or placed under its superinten- 
dence. The Lord's supper is dispensed in the parish church twice 
a-year, and the number of communicants at the summer sacra- 
ment is about 340. There are 171 families connected with 
Dissenters ; of these, 4 belong to the Episcopal communion, 
3 are Papists, 1 is Independent, and the remainder are connect- 
ed with one or other of the bodies denominated Seceders. It is 
stated that 323 individuals above twelve years of age in this pa- 
rish belong to the congregation at Slateford. According to the 
usual mode of providing seat-room for the population, this would 
show that 216 sittings were held by inhabitants of Colinton pa- 
rish, thus leaving 304 to be supplied from other parts of the 
country. It is understood, however, that the house is not fully let. 

The remainder of the Seceders in the parish betake themselves 
to various places of worship in Edinburgh ; one great evil result- 
ing from which is, that, of necessity, they are left without pastoral 
superintendence, as sheep having no shepherd. Not long ago one 
individual in this parish was visited by his minister ; ^^ Come awa, 
Sir," was the salutation with which the minister was welcomed, 
*^ it is the first time these forty years. But do not think that I 
have been neglected a' that time. I have enjoyed many a visit 
from our parish minister." It has, indeed, ever been the steady aim 
of the present incumbent to minister parochially. All within the 
bounds of his parish he considers as placed under his care, and, 

EDINBURGH. I 



130 ^DINBURGHSHIRR. 

amid much weakness and imperfection, he extends his attentions 
to all who are willing to receive them, — his one aim being to bring 
all to the Great Shepherd of the Sheep, the Lord Jesus Christ* 
He has the satisfaction of adding that during the thirty-two years 
in which he has been allowed to be put in trust with the Gospel, 
he has met with uniform kindness from his parishioners, by what- 
ever name they have been distinguished. 

The number of individuals connected with the Dissenters in 
this parish is 658, the number left entirely under the charge of 
the church is 1324. Of these, some attend at Currie church, a 
few go into town, and a number, it is to be feared, go nowhere. 
The church was long exceedingly ill attended in winter, its cold- 
ness being pleaded as an excuse. In summer it is well filled, but 
it must with sorrow be acknowledged, that the hurtful and un- 
christian practice of attending public worship in the forenoon only, 
too generally pervades all classes of society. 

There is a Bible Society in the parish, which has \6ng existed ; 
it is auxiliary to the Edinburgh Bible Society, but its exertions 
are very limited. Its contributions amount at present only to about 
L.12 a-year. Connected with the chapel at Slateford is a Con- 
gregational Society for Religious Purposes. 

The average amount of collections for religious and charitable 
purposes is L. 7, 16s. 5d., for the five years preceding 1886. 

Education. — There are one parochial school, and six private 
schools in the parish. The parochial school stood originally ^^ at 
the minister's yett," and bore above its entry these words, ^' out 
doce^ aut duce^ out abu^ It was rebuilt at a great expense in 
1815, in a fine healthy situation above the village. The mas- 
ter, besides teaching English, writing, geometry, arithmetic, and 
geography, is qualified to teach Latin, Greek, and French. He 
has the le^al accommodations, the maximum salary of L.34, and 
generally from 90 to 100 scholars, yielding about L. 40 of fees. 
In the liberal spirit of Christian benevolence, the present master, 
Robert Hunter, A. M. bears a very considerable proportion of that 
burden of instructing the poor, which would otherwise fall to be 
borne by the kirk-session. He also holds the offices of session- 
clerk, of clerk to the heritors, and of postmaster at Colinton, while 
he is employed to collect the parochial assessments. 

Three of the private schools receive aid more or less, so 
that the teachers do not altogether depend upon the school 
fees. The remaining three are supported merely by the feds. In 



COLINTON. 131 

these schools English and writing are taught, and in two a little 
arithmetic is added. There are not above two or three grown up 
persons in the parish who cannot read. It is to be feared, however, 
that the instruction received in youth is sometimes so far neglected 
in afler years, as to render reading a labour rather than a pleasure. 
The people in general are desirous to have their children instructed, 
and there is no house in the parish that is two miles distant from a 
school. There are generally 238 children enrolled at the schools 
within the parish, and there may be about 30 more who attend 
schools in neighbouring parishes. 

There are five Sabbath-evening schools taught in the parish, 
one in each of the principal villages ; and a tract ^^ the Monthly 
Visitor," is left with every family in the parish, once a month. 

Libraries* — There are two libraries in the parish, one in Colin- 
ton village, kept in the parish school, which has been shut for many 
years, but steps are now taking to make it available to the public ; 
the other is at Slateford, under the charge chiefly of the kirk- 
session of the chapel there; but it is to be regretted that the 
volumes most frequently asked for are those that minister to amuse- 
ment rather than to edification. There is also a small library 
connected with the parish school, the gift of a friend, the books in 
which are lent to the advanced children as a reward for diligence 
in their studies. Those who are entitled to receive books pay to 
the library one penny per quarter. 

Friendb/ Societies, — There are two Friendly Societies in the parish 
which provide for the support of their members when laid aside from 
work by disease or accident, &c. The Old Society, established in 
1801, allows to its sick members 4s. per week for the first thirteen 
weeks, 2s. for the next twenty-six weeks, and Is*. 6d a-week for 
the rest of the time they are ofi^ work ; it also allows L.3 for the 
burial of the man, and L. 2 for the burial of the wife, while it gives, 
if the funds will allow, iOs. a-year to the widow. It has 50 mem- 
bers. 

The New Society was established in 1814, and had its rules new 
modelled in 1829, according to the suggestions thrown out by the 
Highland Society, and approved of in terms of the Act of Parlia- 
ment on that subject. The allowances made by this society to its 
members are, 5s. a-week for the first year in which they are 
by sickness unfitted for gaining their bread ; ds. 6d. per week 
for the second year ; and thereafter 2s. 6d. per week so long 
as they shall require it ; an allowance is made of L.5 for the fune« 



132 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ral of the member, and L.d for that of bis wife ; but should he die 
unmarried, his heirs are allowed the whole L.8 for his funeral 
charges. This society has 300 members, and its stock amounts 
to L.1000. The Old Society requires from 58* to )0s. 6d> entry 
money according to the age, and 2s. a-quarter, with Is. additional 
in the year in support of widows' annuities, from its members ; the 
new takes ds. 6d. of entry money, and 2s. a-quarter, reserving the 
power of raising the latter if needful. These Societies are a very 
great advantage to all who are wise enough to avail themselves of 
their aid. 

Poor. — The average number of poor for the five years end- 
ing February 1837, was 41. Some of these, however, had wives, 
others children, dependent on them. The average allowance 
given to these was L. 4, 88. 9|d. per annum. Besides, there 
were two lunatic paupers, not always in confinement, but whose 
aliment during the period referred to amounted to L. 137, 16s. 8d. 
The funds affording those supplies were assessments averaging per 
annum, L. 182; collections, L. 35, 12s. 8d.; mortcloth*dues» 
L. 11, 8s.; marriage fees^ L. 1, 10s. 10^.; funds from other 
sources, L.5, 17s. 3^d,; total, L.236, 8s. lOd. These funds^ 
however, covered also the expense of the church affairs, and va« 
rious other items which the kirk-session undertake for the heri- 
tors. The poor have also a cart of coals at the new year, defray- 
ed by a collection made for the purpose ; and a portion of the 
meal mentioned as Mr Anderson's benefaction. The people are 
not unwilling to receive parochial aid, and many would rather 
leave their relatives a burden on the public, than lessen in the 
least their own comforts. But to this there are honourable ex- 
ceptions. 

Alehouses. — There are at present 14 public-houses in the pa- 
rish, — a number much greater than is required for the real wants 
of the people, and therefore truly hurtful to them. 

Fuel. — Coal is the only fuel used in the parish. It comes 
to us along the Union Canal, or from the fields of coal which lie 
to the south-east The price for the ton of 20 cwt. brought to 
Colinton village may be stated from 14s. to 18s., according to the 
kind required. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
The cultivation of the parish, since the last Statistical Ac- 
count was written, has been greatly improved, and is generally 
carried on with activity and intelligence. Considerable changes 

4 



KIttKLISTON. 133 

have taken place in the various manufactures then existing in 
the parish. The distillery has disappeared ; the skinnery ! its 
very name is lost, having given place to the more poetical de- 
signation of Laverock dale ; the magnesia manufactory is in 
ruins; the noise of the wauk-mill no longer reminds the pas- 
senger of its existence ; and the mill for beating flax is, compa- 
ratively speaking, in little use. Still the parish flourishes ; the po- 
pulation has increased ; the rental has improved ; and could a little 
more of that right^hearted prudence which inclines, and, through 
God's blessing, enables man to value and steadily comply with the 
counsels of heavenly truth, be infused into the bosom of the gene- 
rality of the people, they would be blessed indeed. 

Drawn up November 1838. 
Revised October 1839. 



PARISH OF KIRKLISTON. 

PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND. 

TWBBDDALB. 

THE REV. ADAM DUNCAN TAIT, MINISTER. 



I. — ToPOaRAPHY AND NATURAL HiSTORY. 

The parish of Kirkliston lies partly in the county of Linlithgow ; 
partly in that of Edinburgh. The river Almond forms the boundary 
between the two counties, through the whole extent of the parish ; 
and the south-eastern portion, lying in the county of Edinburgh, 
is about one-fourth of the whole. 

Name, — The ancient name was Temple Listen. Of the com- 
pound Liston there are several instances, in the names of places 
in the parish, as Old Liston^ New Liston^ Over New Liston, Hal 
lAstonj Eliston or II Listen or High Liston, and Kirk Liston, the 
last being the name of the principal village, and of the parish. 
The etymology of the word Liston is uncertain. There is an old 
tradition, that a large district of country around was, at a remote 
period, possessed by a distinguished family of that name, and that 
this circumstance gave its name to the parish. But it is said, that 
the term Lioston signi6^s in Celtic an inclosure on the side of a ri* 



134 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Y6r, and it is not unlikely that this may be the true origin of the 
name of the parish. 

Extentj Sfc* — The extent of the parish, in length, from east to 
west, is 5^ miles; its breadth from north to south, about 4 J miles. 
It contains 12.007 square miles. The figure is an irregular square. 

Boundaries* — It is bounded by the following parishes^ viz. on the 
north and north-east, by Dalmeny ; north and north -west, Abercom; 
west, Ecclesmachen ; and a detached portion of Dalmeny, named 
Auldcathie; west and south-west, Uphall; south-west, Midcalder; 
south, Kirknewton and Ratho ; east, Corstorphine and Cramond. 
There is a portion of the parish, entirely separate, named Listen 
Shiels, lying on the slope of Pentland hills, which was annexed, 
quoad sacroj many years ago, to the parish of Kirknewton. This 
portion of the parish is bounded on the east and south-east by 
Pennicuik ; on the north and north-east, by Currie ; on the west 
by Midcalder; on the south by Linton, lying in the county of 
Peebles. 

Meteorology. — The average temperature for the »ix years com- 
mencing with 1832, is as under. 

1832 ISaS 1834 1835 1836 1837 
45^ 44| 46 44^ 43^ 43| * 

Climate. — The prevailing winds are west and south-west. 
The climate may be termed good, compared with that of a large 
portion of Scotland. There are no distempers peculiar to the dis- 
trict, and the parish may be said to be decidedly healthy : but it 
is worthy of remark, that in the small village of Newbridge, which 
contained at the time just 65 inhabitants, situated eight miles from 
Edinburgh, on the middle turnpike road to Glasgow, the morta- 
lity, by cholera, in April 1832, wag greater than in any part of the 
county of Linlithgow, eleven deaths having occurred in the course 
of ten days 

Hydrography. — Springs of all sorts are abundant, flowing from 
whinstone, limestone, gravel, or layers of sand : many of these are 
highly impregnated with lime and iron, some with magnesia. 

The river Almond, which takes its rise in Lanarkshire, flows 
through this parish, entering it at the south-western extremity, 
and flowing in a circuitous course, of about 4^ miles, to the vil- 
lage of Kirkliston, which stands on a bank immediately overhang- 
ing it Its course from thence is to the north-eastward, about a 
mile and a-half, when it passes into the parish of Cramond, and 

* This ayerage is taken from daily observations in the morning and evening. 



KIRKLISTON. 135 

falls into the Frith of Forth, at that yillage. Its bed is broad, 
and in many parts rocky ; its depth varies considerably. After 
rainy weather, especially with a strong south-west wind, it overflows 
its banks frequently to a great extent, and, in consequence of this, 
large tracts of valuable land in this parish, on both sides, were of- 
ten much injured. 

As a remedy for this evil, very strong and high embankments 
have lately been raised, at a great expense, by the proprietors of 
the lands along its margin, and by the trustees of the Edinburgh 
and Linlithgow turnpike road, and the river may now be said to 
be kept within limits. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The minerals in this parish are re- 
ferable to the secondary and alluvial classes. The secondary 
rocks, which belong to the carboniferous system, are chiefly sand- 
stone, limestone, and trap or whinstone. No coal has been met 
with, although some of the coal metals, as ironstone and bitumi- 
nous shale or blaes, occur. The strata dip to the north and north- 
west, and vary in thickness. 

In some parts of the parish, a bastard limestone occurs, of no 
value as lime, and very unkindly to the mason's tools, but furnish- 
ing a useful stone for building. 

Many trials have been made for coal to a great depth, but with- 
out success. It is supposed, however, that there must be coal, al- 
though lying too deep for being wrought, — as ironstone and bitu- 
minous shale or*blaes occur in abundance, under a bed of rock, 
in quality and thickness similar to that over the coal at Borro- 
stownness, and called the roof. 

The only alluvial deposits are to be found on the sides of the 
Almond, which consist chiefly of gravel, sand, and loam. Through- 
out the parish, soils of different kinds are to be found. But it 
may be said that the prevailing soil varies from a strong clay to 
a rich black mould. 

Zoology. — Under this head, it may be stated, that when the line 
of the Union Canal was dug through the estate of Clifton Hall, 
about twenty years ago, a tusk of a Mammoth was found, nearly five 
feet long, about twenty-five feet under the surface of the ground, 
firmly imbedded in blue till, or tilly clay, in good preservation. A 
description and figure of this very interesting specimen will be found 
in the Memoirs of the Wernerian Natural History Society. 

Botany. — The following list of rare plants growing in the pa- 



136 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

rish and neighbouring district of the country may be acceptable 
to the reader. 

Symphytum officinale, oommoa com- PiluUrla globulifera, pepper grass, at 

frey, road-side to the south of Dun- Philpston Loch. 

tarvie. Ophioglossuin vulgatunii adder*s toogue, 

Adoxa nioscbatellina^ tuberous-rooted ud Drumshoreland Muir. 

moschatel, near an old mill, on the Asplenium trichomanes, common maiden- 
banks of the Almond, Clifton Hall. hair spleenwort, in Newliston woods. 
Euphorbia ezigua, in corn-fields, to the Asplenium ruta muraria, wall rue, in 

north-east of Carlowrie. Newliston woods. 
Lychnis viscaria, viscous catch-fly, on 

Dundas HilL Fukgi. 

Potentillaargentea,silverycinquefoiI, on Agaricus procerus, tall mushroom, at 

Craig Brae, Duudas. Carlowrie. 

Scutellaria galcriculata, common skull* Agaricus cristatus, at Foihall. 

cap« on Dundas Hill. Cantharellus cibarius, truffle, at Fozhall. 

Malva moschata^ marsh-mallow, on the Helvetia mitra, at Foxhall, 

banks of the Almond. ._• leucophsea, at Fozhall. 

Genista tinctoria, dyer^s broom, on Drum- Morchella esculenta, common eatable 

shoreland Muir. morelle, at Fozhall. 

Hypericum humifusum, trailing St Morchella hybrida, at Fozhall. 

John's wort, in a plantation on the 

east of Craig Brae. 

In the garden of Carlowrie, the property of David Falconar, 
Esq. there is a large and beautiful collection of rare plants. 

II. — Civil History. 
Eminent Men, — Among eminent characters connected with the 

parish, may be mentioned Skene of Hallyards, unhappily distinguish- 
ed by his zeal in persecuting the Covenanters. — Reid, who suffer- 
ed in their cause — the celebrated John, Earl of Stair, who inhe- 
rited from his mother the estate of Newliston. — Andrew Dalzel^ 
Professor of Greek in the University of Edinburgh, — and the Right 
Honourable Sir Robert Listen, lately deceased. Respecting Pro- 
fessor Dalzel, it may be worthy of remark, that he was the son of 
a man distinguished by his knowledge of agriculture, who came to 
this parish at the special desire of the Earl of Stair, when he, on 
returning from public life, was beginning to direct his attention to 
the improvement of his estate ; and under his direction, the mode 
of ploughing in common use in the low countries, viz. by two horses 
or two oxen, was adopted on his Lordship's estate, in room of the 
old Scotch mode of ploughing, viz. by six, or eight, or sometimes 
twelve oxen. Under his superintendence, likewise, the first ex- 
ample in Scotland was given on the estate of Newliston, of the 
planting of cabbages, potatoes, and turnips in the fields. The 
mother of the Professor was a daughter of the proprietor of Linns 
Mill, in the south-western extremity of the parish, now part of the 
estate of Clifton Hall. Andrew Dalzel, and Sir Robert Liston, 
so deservedly eminent for his ability and success in diplomatic ser- 



KIRKLISTON. 137 

vices, were born, the former on the 6th, the latter on the 8th of 
October 1742. The houses of their parents were only about half 
a mile apart, and they both received the elements of education at 
the parochial school of Kirkliston, then under the charge of Mr 
John Hastie, of whose talents and eminence as a teacher, Sir Ro- 
bert Listen was wont frequently, to the very latest years of his 
life, to speak in terms of high commendation. 

Chief Land-owners. — These are, the Earl of Hopetoun ; Mr 
Hog of Newliston ; Mr Dundas of Dundas ; Mr Falconar of Car« 
lowrie ; Mr Cameron of Foxhall (anciently) Todshaugh ; Mr 
Ramsay of Barnton ; Sir Alexander Charles Maitland Gibson of 
Clifton Hall; Sir James Gibson- Craig of Riccarton; Mr Coch- 
ran Wishart Baillie of Lamingtou. The five first mentioned pos- 
sess the part of the parish lying in the county of Linlithgow ; the 
four last mentioned, possess that portion lying in the county of 
Edinburgh. 

The valued rent of the parish is L. 12846, 18s. Scots, where- 
of more than two*fifths belong to the Earl of Hopetoun, and near- 
ly one-fifth to Mr Hog. 

Parochial Registers. — These are of four classes : — 1. The Mi- 
nutes of Session ; 2. The Minutes of Heritors' Meetings ; 3. The 
Lists of Baptisms, Marriages, and Deaths ; 4. The Accounts re- 
lative to the Poor's Funds. Of the first class of records, the ear- 
liest voliftne commences in 1647^ and there are six other volumes, 
the latest commencing in 1817 ; of the second class, there are two 
volumes, the former commencing in 1692, the latter in 1785; of the 
third class, the earliest volume commences in 1675, and there are 
five other volumes, the latest commencing in 1817, but there is 
no record of deaths prior to 1816; of the last class, the earliest 
volume commences in 1712, prior to which period, the accounts 
relative to the poor's funds were all engrossed in the minutes of 
session, and there are five other volumes, the last commencing 
in 1621. All these volumes, with the exception of the first and 
fourth, of the first class, are in a tolerably good state of preser- 
vation, and from the earliest period, the records seem to have been 
carefully kept 

Antiquities. — At Lochend, near Newbridge, in the county of 
Edinburgh, some large stones are set up, where a battle was fought 
in the year 995, between Kenneth, the natural brother of Mal- 
colm, second King of Scotland, and commander of his forces, and 
Constantine, the usurper of the Crown. About a mile and a half 



138 EDINBUBGHSUIRE. 

to the westward of Newbridge, several large stone coffins have been, 
from time to time, discovered. Farther down the course of the 
Almond, nearly two miles, on the property of Mr Ramsey of Baro- 
ton, a solitary monumental stone has been erected, in memory of 
the same battle, named Catttanej supposed to be a corruption of 
Constantine^ and to have been erected to the honour of Constan- 
tino, one of the commanders in the same engagement, .who was 
there slain and interred. When the turnpike road by Loanhead 
was cut through, spurs and heads of spears were found under ^the 
surface of the ground. 

It is a well-ascertained fact, that Edward I. of England, when 
marching to Falkirk, where he completely vanquished the Scot- 
tish troops, on the 22d of July 1298, lay for some time with his 
army close to the village of Kirkliston. The field in which, ac- 
cording to common tradition, the King^s tent was pitched, is im- 
mediately to the south-west of the village, on the property of New- 
listen. 

On the estate of Clifton Hall has been found an urn of burnt 
clay, containing ashes ; and the shape and size of two flat stones 
within it, seemed to indicate that a heart had been therein depo- 
sited. 

In the village of Clifton, under the foundation stone of an old 
cot-house, was found a Pig or Pipkin of burnt clay, with a small 
opening, just sufficient to admit one coin at a time. It contained 
between 300 and 400 silver coins, partly Scotch, partly Eng- 
lish. In a separate field, on the line of the Canal, and on the pro- 
perty of Clifton Hall, was found a gold coin, in excellent preser- 
vation, about fifteen feet under the surface, bearing the inscrip- 
tion Robertus IL Rex Scotorum^ 

Beneath a large whinstone, immediately under the surface, a 
Druidical axe was discovered, in good preservation, quite sharp, 
apparently hidden under the stone. 

In the south-west corner of the parish, on the estate of the Earl 
of Hopetoun, there is a baronial residence, evidently of great an- 
tiquity, named EListan or // LtstoUf supposed to be a corruption 
of High Listouj which is said to have been, in ancient times, a 
hunting castle of the Kings of Scotland. James IL and James IV. 
are both said to have used it as such. 

About two miles to the westward of the village of Kirkliston, a 
little to the south of the Edinburgh and Linlithgow turnpike road, 
stands Niddry Castle^ a fine old ruin, at one time possessed by the 



KIRKLISTON. 139 

Earls of Wintoun, now the property of the Earl of Hopetoun. 
Queen Mary of Scotland rested, and is said to have slept there, 
when on her flight from Lochleven to join her adherents at Ha- 
milton, on the 2d of May 1568. 

Among some old trees at Linn's Mill, close to Clifton Hall, 
there is a tombstone in good preservation, bearing the date of 
1645 : it is that of a proprietor of Linn's Mill, in whose family it 
had been for 300 years. The individual, over whose grave the 
stone is placed, is said to have been the last man who died in 
Scotland of the plague. 

Modem Buildings. — Of these the chief is the mansion-house of 
Newliston, the seat of James Maitland Hog, Esq. a large and com- 
modious family residence, built about forty-flve years ago. 

In the western extremity of the village of Kirkliston, a distil- 
lery was erected twenty years ago. 

in. — Population. 
There are no means of determining what may have been the 

ancient state of the parish in regard to population. 

By return made to Dr Webster in 1755, the population was 1461 
By former Statistical Account in 1792, - 1504 

By Parliamentary census taken in 1801, - 1647 

1811, - 1682 

1821, - 2218 

1831, . 2265 

The great increase of population since 1811 is supposed to have 
been owing to the extraordinary number of labourers, chiefly Irish- 
men, who were employed in the parish in the years 1818, 1819, 
1820, and 1821, in the construction of the Union Canal, many of 
whom became, fro.m that time, settled inhabitants. 

Number of inhabitants residing in villages and in the country : — 
Kirkliston village, 600; Winch burgh, 165; Newbridge, 90; 
Gogar Stane, 60; Niddry, 66; Clifton, 40; Newhouses, 20; 
total 1030; in the country, 1236; total 2266. 

The average of births cannot be exactly ascertained, as the duty 
of inserting the names of their children in the parish register has 
been for many years greatly neglected by parents ; in this respect, 
however, a decided improvement is beginning now to take place. 
The following is a statement of the number of children baptized 
in the Established Church, in public and private, during the seven 
years beginning 1831 : — 

1831, 1832, 1833, 1884» 1835, 1836, 1837, 
.54 50 46 48 42 37 41 

Average of deaths from the parish obituary : — 



1830, 


1831, 


1832, 


1833, 


1834, 


1835, 


1836, 


19 


24 


35 


33 


30 


18 


33 



140 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Average of marriages from the parish record of proclamation 
of banns : — 



1881, 


18d2, 


1883, 


1884» 


1885, 


1836, 


1837, 


19 


14 


6 


14 


18 


16 


18 



The number of families of independent fortune, statedly or oc- 
casionally resident in the parish, 4. 

1 insane and 1 fatuous person reside in the parish ; 2 deaf and 
dumb, and 1 blind. 

Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 16. 

Habits and Character of the People. — On the estate of Clifton 
Hall, especially, several cottages have been built on a remarkably 
neat plan, and most of them are kept in excellent order, by (be 
families living in them ; in other parts of the parish likewise, se- 
veral places might be speciGed, where habits of cleanliness seem 
evidently to prevail. But it is to be regretted that this is by no 
means universal. The larger villages, and especially that of Kirk- 
liston, are very deficient in this respect. There are in this village 
several houses, recently built, and these are generally kept in a 
clean and neat condition ; but in many of the old houses, the ha- 
bits of the families are still very far behind the standard which, 
in this part of the country, ought certainly to be reached by all ; 
and there is little perceptible approach to it. On the whole, the 
people of the parish enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts of 
social life, and are contented with their circumstances. Outward 
decency of conduct is generally maintained by them — but it is to 
be feared that here, as in other parts of the coxintry, the low price 
of spirituous liquors has been productive of most pernicious con- 
sequences, in regard to the moral habits of the people. 

IV. — Industry. 

The number of farms in the parish is 30 ; the number of farm- 
servants, statedly employed in the management of these, is about 
140. There are 1 1 wrights ; 9 smiths ; 5 tailors ; 8 shoemakers ; 
5 grocers ; 2 candlemakers ; 4 bakers. There is one medical 
gentleman in the parish. 

Agriculture. — The number of acres, standard imperial measure, 
in the parish, is 7722, of which the whole may be said to be cul- 
tivated, or in plantations, or in permanent pasture, with the ex- 
ception, perhaps, of a small quantity of waste land on the detached 
farm of Listen Shiels. The plantations are not extensive ; on the 
lands of Newliston, Clifton Hall, Carlowrie, Fox hall, Niddry and 
Humbie, there is a good deal of old timber, and over various dis- 



KIRKLISTON. 141 

tricts of the parish, there are a few fine trees to be found in groupes, 
which point out where mansion-houses have anciently stood. Of 
young wood, there is only a small quantity. There is little per- 
manent pasture — none, indeed, if we except the lawns around the 
mansion-houses, and the margin of the river Almond. The pre- 
vailing sorts of trees are, beech, ash, ehn, arid fir; there are few 
oaks, and, except in young plantations, little larch. 

AncieiU state of Husbandry. — A hundred years ago, there was 
no enclosed ground in the parish, except the gardens of the pro- 
prietors, the kail-yards of the tenants, and the church-yard. The 
boundaries of property were marked by pit-stones, or in particular 
placet by a cairn of stones gathered from the surface of the soil : 
the division of a farm, if visible at all, was described by a bank or 
gawfar^ and except in seeding or reaping, marches were little re- 
garded ; for after the removal of the crop, the cattle were allowed 
to range at will— this was termed hmg-hdlter. About this period, 
a considerable breadth of land around the village of Kirkliston lay 
in ruU'riffy that is, in small divisions or lots, each of which had its 
peculiar name, and several of these, lying far apart from each 
other, were frequently occupied by the same individual. The first 
approach towards forming fields in the parish was the adjustment 
of these small, and irregularly-divided lots, into compact portions. 
About this period, the celebrated John Earl of Stair, whose pub- 
lic life fills so important a page of the history of his country, ren- 
dered essential service to the improvement of agriculture in this 
parish. Having succeeded, on the death of his mother, to the 
estate of Newliston, he came to reside there, about the year 1725, 
and devoted much of his attention to the improving and beautify- 
ing of it. The pleasure-grounds around the mansion house of New- 
liston, comprehending about 70 acres Scots measure, and a large 
extent of ground beyond these limits, containing altogether about. 
250 acres, were laid out and planted by him ; and although the 
tastes and ideas of a military life seem evidently to have guided 
him in the whole design, more than the study of natural beauty, 
yet, unquestionably, the effect of the entire plan is both striking 
and pleasing. He cultivated chiefly by spade husbandry, and he 
had about 200 workmen almost constantly employed on his grounds. 

At a considerably later period, viz. about the year 1767, a large 
district of the parish was arranged in farms, all of which were 
small, and the enclosing of fields became general. About this 
time also, regular leases began to be granted, generally for a long 



142 EDmBURGHSUIRB. 

period, such as two or three nineteens. In these agreements the 
only stipulations were — the payment of the rent (a large propor- 
tion in kind,) the furnishing of carriages and capons, thirlage to 
a corn-mill, some improvement in the enclosing of the land, or 
the payment of a small grassum at the commencement of the 
lease. As to the course of cropping, the only requirement was, 
that the land should be farmed according to the rules of good 
husbandry. About this period the agriculture of this parish was 
greatly improved by the example of Mr John Allan, tenant in 
Loanhead, a farmer in the immediate vicinity of the village of Kirk- 
liston. He was decidedly the best corn farmer in his day, and 
was the first to introduce a regular rotation of cropping, viz. naked 
fellow, wheat or oats, beans, barley, grass, oats, the rotation best 
adapted to strong soils, yet known. The use of foreign manure 
was introduced by him into the parish. At a later period, Mr 
Wilkie of Ormiston Hill, who rented two farms in the parish, the 
property of the Earl of Hopetoun, contributed eminently to the 
furtherance of improvement, by extensive drainage, and a judici- 
ous mode of cultivation. His maxim in farming was, ^^ dry land be- 
fore cropping it," — he introduced the four and five*shift rotation, 
always resting the land in pasture when in a clean state. 

Rent of Land, — The average rent of land may be stated at 
L. 2, 5s. per Scots acre. The real rent of the parish is about 
L. 14,000 per annum. 

Price of Labour, — The great proportion of farm labour is paid 
for by half yearly or weekly wages ; drainage and work on fences, 
only, is let by contract The wages of farm-servants are on an 
average, all things included, L.26 or L. 27 per annum. Able- 
bodied day-labourers earn from 9s. tolls, per week; wrights, 2s. 6d. 
per day ; masons, 3s. ; slaters, 8s. or ds. 6d. Smithy work is fre- 
quently contracted for, and often also charged at a price per article. 

Breeds of Cattle. — The land is generally so valuable in quality 
that the farmers do not find it for their interest to breed cattle ; 
of late, however, they are turning their attention more than for* 
merly to this branch of farming. Another reason which may have 
rendered them less anxious about breeding, is the vicinity to Fal- 
kirk market, where the fields and stalls are supplied with bullocks 
from the shires of Aberdeen, Inverness, and Argyle. Ayrshire 
cows are generally used for the dairy. The breed of cattle is a 
cross between Teeswater and Ayrshire. The breed of sheep is 
confined to the black-faced, Cheviot, and Leicester, with crosses 

8 



KIRKLISTON. 143 

between each of these sorts. Of sheep there is little stock kept 
— ^they are chiefly fattened. Sheep pasturage is yearly increasing 
throughout the parish, and wherever the soil admits, the sheep 
are fed with turnips on the grounds — this, with the free use of 
lime, has produced pastures of the first order. 

Husbandry. — The general character of the husbandry is good. 
On some of the farms, especially the larger, it is of first-rate ex- 
cellence, certainly equal to any style of farming in Scotland. 
About three-fourths of the land is stiff, with a large admixture of 
clay, and upon a retentive subsoil, and is better adapted to the 
cultivation of wheat and beans than turnips. As a remedy for this, 
drainage has been extensively employed both in the way of deep 
cutting, and of close or furrow-draining ; and these plans have 
been attended with such success, that turnips are now grown in si- 
tuations in which it would formerly have been reckoned quite im- 
possible to cultivate light green crops, and the five-shift rotation 
is becoming every year more general. The use of the various 
most approved manures is now very common, and is producing a 
marked improvement in the culture of the soil, such as rape-cake, 
bone-dust, soot, and the common manures from Edinburgh. These, 
coupled with large quantities of oil-cake, given to feeding cattle, 
greatly enrich the home made manure, and are yearly giving ad- 
ditional weight to the crops. In the southern part of the parish 
there is a considerable extent of light land, well adapted for turnips, 
and other green crops, and of that land some portion is of the very 
best quality. 

General duration of Leases, State of Farm Buildinffs.-^The 
present leaseholds are all of nineteen years duration. There is 
scarcely an instance of a longer term. The rents are almost 
wholly regulated by the price of grain, as fixed yearly by the fiars 
of the county. Generally speaking, the land is let at a fair 
rate, the landlord having a full rent for his property, and the te* 
nant being able to meet his engagements: in consequence of this, 
there subsists between the proprietors and the tenantry a mutual 
friendly feeling, which is necessarily conducive to the comfort of 
both parties, and to the welfare of the community at large. The 
farm-steadings are all convenient and suitable, and the dwelling- 
houses generally are commodious and good : all the steadings 
lately erected have been built on the most approved plan, embra- 
cing every possible accommodation for the most complete manage* 
ment of the land. 



144 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Amount of Raw Produce. — It is impossible to fix the average 
in such a parish as this, as it varies so greatly from oDe year to 
another, according to the extent of land that may be under pasture. 
The following is the average of the arable produce. 

Wheat, per acre, S2 busheU imperial. Turnipa, per acre, 20 tons. 

Barley, do. 42 do. Potatoes, do. 6 do. 

Oats, do. 48 do. Artificial hay, do. I4 do. 

Beans, do. 28 do. 

Quarries. — There is a stone quarry on the farm of Humbie, 
the property of the Earl of Hopetouu, which yields a beautiful 
and durable stone. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

There is no market-town in the parish ; the nearest are Edin- 
burgh and Linlithgow, distant eight miles, and Bathgate, distant 
ten miles. 

The chief villages are Kirkliston and Winchburgh, in the county 
of Linlithgow, and Newbridge, in the county of Edinburgh. 

Means of Communication. — There is a post-office in the village 
of Kirkliston, and letters are despatched and received twice every 
day* Three turnpike roads pass through the parish, viz. the road 
from Edinburgh to Stirling, and to Glasgow by Falkirk, which lies 
along the northern division of the parish, passing through the vil- 
lages of Kirkliston and Winchburgh, and is in length about five 
miles, nearly due east and west ; the road from Edinburgh to 
Glasgow by Bathgate, which lies through the southern division of 
the parish, passing through the village of Newbridge, and in 
length about three miles and a-half, due east and west ; the road 
from Queensferry to the last mentioned Edinburgh and Glasgow 
turnpike, which passes through the village of Kirkliston, and in 
length about three miles. On the first of these roads, there are 
four daily public coaches, viz. the mail between Edinburgh and Stir- 
ling, and three stage-coaches, one to and from Stirling ; one to 
and from Glasgow ; one to and from Falkirk; on the second, there 
are seven daily public coaches, viz. the mail between Edinburgh and 
Glasgow, and six stage-coaches between these cities. On all these 
roads, there are also carriers' waggons. 

Bridges, — There are two over the river Almond, one on the 
Stirling road, seven miles west from Edinburgh ; the other, on the 
middle Glasgow road, eight miles west from Edinburgh. They 
are both in good condition, and are kept in excellent repair; the for- 
mer was lengthened and widened, three years ago, at considerable 
expense. 



KIRKLISTON. 145 

Canals. — The Union Canal passes through the paVish, and there 
is a splendid aqueduct over the rivfer Almond, at the south-western 
extremity of it. The construction of this canal was commenced 
in 1818, and finished in 1822 ; it was intended to form a junction 
with the Forth and Clyde Canal. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The following is the list of ministers of 
this parish, since the year 1 647, the date of the earliest parochial 
register. 

Mr Gilbert Hall, 1647, time of his settlement not known. Mr 
James Wemyss, admitted in 1663, remained until the Revolution; 
Mr Thomas Miller, admitted in 1692; Mr James Houston, ad- 
mitted in 1716; Mr John Drysdale, admitted in 1748; Mr James 
Lindsay, admitted in 1763; Mr Charles Ritchie, in 1794; the pre- 
sent incumbent in 1826. 

The parish church is not in a central situation, being only one 
mile from the northern extremity of the parish, and three miles and 
a-half from the southern ; the most remote point from the church 
is the south-western extremity of the parish, distant four miles and 
a-half. On this account, its situation is necessarily rather incon- 
venient for these portions of the parish, and during winter, and 
after wet weather, when the river Almond is generally flooded, and 
the usual fords rendered impassable, the people in the southern 
part of the parish suffer great inconvenience in coming to church, 
from the want of a bridge, as they require to make a long circuit, 
in order to reach either of the bridges formerly mentioned. The 
church is evidently of great antiquity, erected probably in the 
twelfth century. It was one of those belonging to the knights 
hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem, who had great possessions in 
this part of the country, previous to the Reformation. There is a 
very fine old door-way in the south side of the building, not used 
now, as an entrance to the church, exhibiting a beautiful specimen 
of rich Saxon architecture. The bell is remarkable for the fine- 
ness of its tone ; it is rung every evening at 8 o'clock, and like- 
wise every morning, in summer, at 5 ; in winter, at 6. The church 
underwent a complete repair in 1822, and is now one of the most 
comfortable in the county ; it affords accommodation to 700 per- 
sons. The area of the church is divided among the heritors, ac- 
cording to their valuations, and the portion assigned to each heri- 
tor is subdivided among his tenants. There are about 65 sittings, 
left unappropriated, for the use of the inhabitants of the villages or 
other inhabitants, not otherwise provided with seats. 

EDINBURGH. K 





Bolls. 


Firlots. 


Pecks. 


Wheat, 


2 





1 


Barley, 


135 


1 


2 


Oatmeal, 


152 


1 


2 


Oats, 





2 


2 



146 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The manse' was built in 1692 ; it was repaired and enlarged in 
1808; and as it is still deficient in accommodation, -the heritors 
have kindly agreed to make an addition to it, which is to be imme- 
diately executed. ^ 

Glebe. — The extent, including the garden and site of the manse 
and offices, is 7 acres 27 falls of excellent land ; its annual value is 
from L. 28 to L. 30, 

Stipend. — The amount is as follows : 

Lippies. 
Total, 290 2 ^ 

There is likewise an allowance of L. 10 per annum for commu- 
nion elements, and the incumbent enjoys, by gift from the Crown, 
the feu-duties of Hallyards, amounting to L. 5, lis. 7^d. The 
average of the grain stipend for the five years preceding crop 1836, 
amounted to L. 268, 18s. 2J Jd. 

There are no chapels of ease connected with the Established 
Church in the parish ; and there are no Dissenting or Seceding 
chapels. Of the families connected with the Secession, some go 
to Queensferry, some to East-Calder, some to Mid-Calder, one 
or two individuals, to Edinburgh. The number of families con- 
ilected with the Established Church is about 410; the average 
amount of regular attendance in the parish church is from 520 
to 550 individuals ; the average number of communicants is about 
400. The people who do attend church are, on the whole, re- 
gular in attendance ; but it is to be feared that the habit of church- 
going is, over the whole of this district of country, less characte- 
ristic of the people than it ought to be. 

Church Collections for Religiom and Charitable Objects* — The 
amount is as follows :— 1833, L. 5; 1834, L. 7, 10s. ; 1835, L. 15, 
15s. ; 1836, L. 12, 5s. ; 1837, L. 38, Os. 2Jd. 

Education. — Of schools there are — one parochial, two partially 
endowed, one unendowed, one supported by individual subscrip- 
tion. The last mentioned is a female school, where sewing is 
taught, together with the ordinary elements of '^education. lo 
the parochial school, reading, English grammar, writing and arith- 
metic, geography and Latin are taught. The school is conducted 
with great efficiency, and is attended by about 90 pupils. At 
the other schools, the same branches, or some of them, are taught. 



KIRKLISTON. 147 

The acting parochial teacher is assistant and successor ta the 
schoolmaster, to whom the v?hole legal salary pertaining to the 
office, which amounts to L. 34, 4s. 4c] d. per annum, continues to 
be paid. By the liberality of the heritors, the officiating teacher 
possesses the dwelling-house and garden, and receives a salary of 
L. 10 per annum, during the life of the retired schoolmaster. 
The fees are paid quarterly, in advance, and may amount to L. 50 
a year. The teacher has also about L. 20 a year as session-clerk, 
and clerk to the heritors and Statute Labour Commissioners. 
There are not many persons, between the years of six and Gfteeo, 
who cannot read ; a large proportion of the young between these 
years can write; and there are very few of those above fifteen 
years, who are unable to read, and, in a certain degree, also to 
write. The people seem to be generally alive to the benefits of 
education. No parts of the parish are so remote from all the 
schools as to prevent the children from attending one or other of 
them. The number of schools is sufficient for the parish. 

Charitable and other Institutions. — A Friendly Society was es- 
tablished in 1798, for the following purposes — 1^^ To afford an 
allowance to members, during sickness and old age ; 2</, to afford 
payment of a sum of money, on the death of members, and their 
wives and widows, in name of funeral allowance; 3^, to afford 
payment of an annuity to the widows of members during their 
widowhood. This institution has maintained great prosperity, 
and has been productive of the happiest effects, both in promoting 
industry, and in ministering to the comfort of the sick and destitute. 

Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of persons receiving 
stated parochial relief is 51 ; the stated monthly disbursement 
amounts to L. 11, 10s. lOd., which sum, divided by 51, gives 
4s. 6^d. as the average monthly allowance to each pauper. Some 
of them receive also aid occasionally, and several, not on the roll 
of the regular paupers, receive occasional relief, during winter es- 
pecially. The following is the amount of ordinary collections at the 
church door, for relief of the poor, during the five years beginning 
1833 : 1833, L. 26, 4s. 3^ : ^834, L. 32, 3s. 4|d. ; 1835, L. 33, 
12s. 8id. ; 1836, L. 31, 12s. ; 1837, L. 30, 8s. 4id. During the 
same period, the following sums have been collected for the pur- 
chase of coals in the beginning of winter: — 1833> L. 9; 1834, 
L. 15; 1835, L. 12; 1836,, L. 15; 1837, L. 16, 19s. lOd. Coals 
have been distributed at the beginning of the season to 70 fa- 
milies. The kindness of the farmers in driving the coals has al- 



148 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ways enabled the kirk-session to extend far more widely, than 
they otherwise could, the benefits of this charity. The amount 
received by the kirk-session, from the hearse and mortcloth dues, 
during the same five years, is as follows : — 1833, L. 17, 4s. 6d. ; 
1834, L. 12, 9s. 6d. ; 1835, L. 10, 13s. ; 1836, L. 13, 18s. 6d. ; 
1837, L. 13, 9s. 6d. The amount derived from the sale of the 
effects of paupers during same period, L. 11, 14s. Id.; the amount 
of expenses, necessarily connected with these sales, L. 4, 16s. 3^.; 
balance available for the relief of the poor, L. 6, 17s. 9^d. The 
amount derived from the dues for the erection of headstones in the 
churchyard at 5s. 7^d. each, during the same period^ L. 2, 5s. The 
amount derived from fines for trespasses, &c. 15s. Besides these, 
there are no other sources of revenue for the relief of the poor, ex- 
cept the contributions by the heritors, in proportion to their several' 
valuations. These contributions are in the form of what may be 
justly termed, although the expression seem paradoxical, Volun," 
tary Assessment The heritors meet twice a-year, for the purpose 
of examining the state of the poor's funds, and fixing the assess- 
ment, necessary to meet the deficiency of the funds already men- 
tioned ; and for the five years referred to, it was found requisite to 
fix this assessment at the rate of L. 200 per annum. This high rate 
was, in part, rendered necessary by a charge of L.21 per annum, 
during the ^bove period, as the board of a lunatic in the Edinburgh 
Asylum. There can be no doubt that the system of supporting 
the poor by assessment is in all respects evil^ — it checks the feel- 
ing of benevolence towards the poor, in the. minds of those who 
are able to afford relief to them, — it greatly reduces the amount of 
collections at the church-doors ; and to the existence of an assess- 
ment, is undoubtedly to be ascribed the fact, that unhappily there 
are very few instances of a disposition on the part of the poor, to re- 
frain from seeking parochial relief, or to feel the regular receiving 
of it, as any degradation.* It ought to be mentioned under this 
head, that a most useful donation to the poor has been bestowed 
annually at the beginning of the year, by the Earl of Hopetoun, 

* While truth requires this statement to be made, the writer feels great pleasure 
in recording an instance of a very opposite mode of feeling and acting. A poor and 
aged woman, on the death of her husband, several years ago, was admitted on the 
poor's roll, and received for about seven years, an allowance of Ss. 4d. per month. 
She succeeded, by the death of a near relative, to a small sum of money, and not on- 
Jy was her name withdrawn from the roll of paupers, but the entire amount of what she 
had received during the period of her destitution was repaid by her family. It would 
assuredly augur well for the moral condition of the country, if eiamples of such just 
and honourable dealing were occurring n>ore frequently. Unhappily they are very 
rare. 



KIRKLISTON. 149 

viz. the gift of a certain quantity of oat-meal to decayed labourers 
on his Lordship's property, and their widows and orphan families. 
The amount of this charity is at present about 35 bolls, divided 
among 38 families. The list is revised by the kirk-session, every 
year, and new cases of destitution are admitted on their recom- 
mendation to the benefit of the charity. This charity is most ju- 
dicious in its design, and has, for a very long series of years, af- 
forded a seasonable relief to the wants of the destitute. 

Fairs, — There is one held annually in the village of Kirkliston, 
on the last Tuesday of July ; and one likewise, in the village of 
Winchburgh, on the first Friday of June. No business is tran- . 
sacted at either of them, and they may be justly styled nuisances, 
which ought to be abolished, as they are invariably the fruitful 
' sources of injury to the morals and comfort of the people. 

Inns, Alehouses^ ^-c— There are three inns, viz. in the villages 
of Kirkliston, Winchburgh, and Newbridge. At Winchburgh there 
are likewise post-chaises, and horses. Of alehouses, the number 
is very considerable : far greater than is required ; and it is much 
to be regretted, that licences for the sale of spirituous liquors are 
granted by the county Justices, so indiscriminately, without any con- 
sideration of the number previously existing, as the morals of the 
community are greatly injured by them. 

FueL — That chiefly used is coal, which is conveyed from the 
collieries belonging to the Duke of Hamilton, near Falkirk, to 
Winchburgh, by the Union Canal. A considerable quantity of 
coal is also driven from Benhar, and Barbauchlie, in the vicinity 
of Bathgate. Of late, the price of coal has been very high, and 
to the poor it is always much greater, than to those in better cir- 
cumstances ; for as they are quite unable to pay for a cart-load 
at a time, they are under the necessity of purchasing what they 
use from retailers, in very small quantities, and at an enormous 
additional cost For this reason very little coal is used by the 
poor ; their fires are chiefly made from the cuttings of the woods. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
There are no striking variations betwixt the present state of 

the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical 
Account. But from that period, there has been a steady progres- 
sive improvement in the mode of farming; and, at the present time, 
there is perhaps no parish in Scotland^ which, in respect of the 
system of husbandry pursued, is farther advanced in improvement, 
or more distinguished by the excellence of its management. At 



150 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the same time, it is evident that the condition of the labouring 
olasses is susceptible of great improvement, and there is no doubt 
that their condition would be greatly better than it is, if there were 
among them a greater degree of foresight, and of care in laying up 
from present income a provision for future want There is among 
the people a distressing amount of poverty, especially in the vil- 
lage of Kirkliston, where some of the houses are little better than 
Irish cabins ; and it is extremely difficult to devise any means of 
mitigating the evils which they suffer, without also multiplying 
the demands for future relief. 

October 1639. 



PARISH OF BORTHWICK. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. THOMAS WRIGHT, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 

Situation. — This parish lies about twelve miles south from Edin- 
burgh, near the fool;^ of the Lammermuir-hills, — and at that part 
where the pastoral vale of the Gala commences its long course of 
twenty miles, from Fala-hill on the north, to Galashiels on the 
south. 

Borthwick, thus lying along the northern boundary of the Lam- 
mermuirs, is at the commencement of that fertile and extensive tract 
of comparatively level country which stretches over the whole of the 
Lothians. Any district so situated has a tendency to throw itself 
into elevations less commanding than those of the mountain range 
in its neighbourhood, — and not unfrequently, as in the case of this 
particular locality, to assume the aspect of a tempestuous sea, be- 
ginning to subside, but still rolling its mountain billows. Being 
also of different materials from those employed in the formation of 
the mountainous districts, it shews this difference of material both 
in the peculiar shape of its rising grounds, and in the scope and 
outline of the intervening valleys, — peculiarities which at once 
mark the different nature of the materials employed and the more 
recent epoch at which the formation has taken place. The val- 
leys of such districts are commonly traversed by streams of greater 



f 



BORTUWICK. 151 

size than the mountain rivulets which have contributed to form them, 
but less than the broad rivers which sweep with their accumulated 
waters through the more level country. The valleys themselves are 
often both possessed of native fertility of soil and remarkable for 
the picturesque views which they open of the more distant and le- 
vel landscape, and they have always been selected as favourite 
stations for such castles as were common during the middle ages, 
and whose ruins still give so much grace and interest to the se- 
cluded spots in which they now are found. 

Extent. — The parish of Borthwick is about 6 miles in length, 
from Castleton on the west to Ford on the east — and 4 miles 
broad, reckoning from Shank on the north to Cowbrae hill on the 
south. The form of the parish, however, is by no means regular 
— for towards the east it stretches into a long and narrow neck of 
land — towards the west it embraces a considerable breadth of more 
elevated ground — ^and the valley of Borthwick itself, with its im- 
posing old castle, occupies the centre of the parish — and forms a 
basin of some extent, traversed by a lively and winding stream — and 
bounded on all sides by undulating tracts of hilly ground, which 
give to it a peculiar character at once of mountain scenery and of 
rural seclusion. 

Hydrography, — The higher part of the parish is traversed by 
two streams, which have their origin in the moorland lying at the 
foot of the transition hills on the south. They are severally de- 
signated as the South and North Middleton Burns — they unite 
precisely at the termination of that neck of land on which the Castle 
of Borthwick stands — they then assume the name of the Gore— • 
which, after winding through the whole extent of the valley, and 
passing along the foot of the rising gro nds on which the modern 
village of Gore Bridge reposes, enters the South Esk at Shank 
Point — one of the most picturesque and pleasing localities in the 
whole district 

From the proximity of these united streams to their sources 
and feeding rivulets on the neighbouring moorland, they o i n 
descend •in torrents very rapidly — and are as speedily restored 
to their usual channel. If a heavy fall of rain occurs during the 
evening or through the night, we perceive, when day dawns, that 
the wat^r has been down during the night, and left evident tokens 
of its ravages and unusual height — though, by the time that we 
have opportunity to observe its course, it has again been restored 
to nearly its more ordinary state. 



152 EDINBUllGHSHrRE. 

The haugh grounds in the valley of Borthwick are especially 
apt to suffer during such occasional inundations — in particular, the 
small farm connected with the castle, and which lies along the low 
grounds by the side of the stream, often sustains serious damage. 
Its crops are laid down — the soil is carried away — ^a layer of sand 
is spread over a great part of the surface — and sometimes the corn 
stacks have been seen steeped in water almost to their sloping roofs. 
Such rapid descents of water are especially frequent during the 
autumnal and winter months. 

In the month of August 1837, the quantity of water which usual- 
ly comes down during such great falls of rain was prodigiously aug- 
mented by another cause. A pond on the estate of Middleton 
gave way — the river itself had been raised to great power and size 
by the water which had previously fallen from the atmosphere — 
and the united mass of the pond and the augmented stream toge- 
ther descended with a force which threatened very serious effects 
throughout the whole of its course. During its progress through the 
deep ravine of Currie wood, it must have presented an impressive 
spectacle, if day-light had permitted the neighbours to witness its 
course — for the wooded banks of the ravine are in close proximity 
to each other, — and when the mighty flood had passed, and opportu- 
nity was afforded of tracing its effects, what struck all observers was, 
that it seemed to have played with masses of stone many tons in weight, 
as if they had been pebbles of ordinary size — the solid rock was 
in several places torn from its foundations, — deep pools were form- 
ed, where previously the tiniest foot of " wood-nymph or lady fair" 
might have stepped without hazard of being wetted, — and at one 
place, for about a space of three or four hundred yards, not one 
particle of soil or of loose rock was left upon the surface — but 
whatever had been gathering since the chaotic waters first retired, 
or what they perhaps had deposited, was swept off — and only the 
bare surface of the subjacent rock was exposed to the eye of the 
observer. This descent of the waters occurred during the darkness 
of a peculiarly cloudy and tempestuous night, and it was not a little 
curious and impressive to witness the lights of the anxious cottag- 
ers by the water side, as they watched on the opposite banks the 
descent of the mighty and resistless mass — saw their bridge borne 
away by the tumultuous torrent — and shouted to each other to give 
information of what was occurring that seemed most worthy of 
notice. 

After long-continued snow storms, when the snow melts and the 

3 



BORTHWFCK. 153 

waters are swollen, the appearance of the valley and of its bor- 
dering haughs, is often very striking. I have repeatedly seen the 
whole valley in a state of inundation on such occasions — and men 
with long poles breaking the ice, and endeavouring to clear the 
course of the strean], as if they had been natives of some of the far 
northern or polar regions. On one occasion the valley was so com- 
pletely covered, that nothing appeared above water but the castle 
and the green knoll on which it stands — and persons were seen 
making their way home, by first scrambling along the tops of stone 
walls, and then plunging more than knee-deep into the turbid and 
ice-covered waters that surrounded them on every side. There was 
no danger, except from cold or moisture — but the scene at any rate 
was unusual — and in some respects ludicrous. 

When the stream is in its usual state, flowing quietly down the 
valley, most strangers are apt to remark, that it seems to them to be 
flowing in a direction difierent from that which they had expected. 
Its course throufifh the vallev is to the north-west, and the first im- 
pression of strangers is that it ought to have flowed to the north-east, 
or eastwards by Crichton Castle, j The truth is, that the stream flows 
during the first portion of its course towards the north-east, but it 
suddenly turns round the knoll on which the castle is situated, and 
then its course is in the opposite direction towards the north-west 
— but strangers not being aware of this turn of its course, naturally 
express their surprise that it seems to them to be running the wrong 
way. Almost every stranger falls into this mistake, and there is 
scarcely one of them who does not express his surprise in nearly 
the same words. 

Many springs of pure and salubrious water issue from the lime* 
stone rocks which form the chief material of the district — and often 
in such abundance at their very first appearance on the surface, as 
to be highly useful to the inhabitants, and at all times to afford a 
pleasing subject of observation and study. 

One of the most copious of these springs opens from a limestone 
ro0k exactly below the arch of the bridge which crosses the road 
close by the little inn at North Middleton. It passes immediately 
into the mill-dam — and is the chief means of working a thrashing- 
mill on the farm of Torcraik. The whole of the valley between that 
bridge and the manse abounds in similar springs — and there are se- 
veral on the glebe— one of which is worthy of notice for the excel- 
lence of its water, and its traditional history. It goes by the name 



154 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of Charlie's well, from the name, I believe, of an old and favourite 
servant of a former minister, who was very partial to it. 

Topographical Appearances. — The general aspect of the parish^ 
is not that of a rich or very highly cultivated district — ^for there are 
considerable tracts of barren moor in it — and the land in many 
places lies high, and has but a scanty covering of soil. Yet agricuU 
ture is doing much to improve the appearance of the most barren 
portions of the district — the long and bleak moor which stretches 
along the base of the Lammermuirs is beginning to be extensively 
covered with cultivated fields and to wave with valuable crops — the 
spongy sides of the streams are now under an active system of drain- 
ing and made available for useful purposes — the low-lying swamps 
are intersected by deep drains, are cleared of their encumbering 
growth of wild wood, and taken into the general tract of cultivated 
land — numerous plantations are now covering the sides of the ris- 
ing grounds with a promising growth for future years — and a spirit 
of active and rapid improvement is visible over the greater part of 
the locality. Still it is not unlikely that the traveller may form a 
very inadequate and erroneous idea of the character of the district 
from such appearances as are obvious to him while pursuing his 
way along the high road by which the parish is traversed — for most 
of its beauties lie along the banks of the streams, and in secluded 
recesses which the eye of a passing observer cannot be expected to 
descry — ^and both the picturesque banks of the Esk, and the less 
prominent beauties of the valley of Borthwick itself, as well as of 
several other similarly situated portions of the general territory, may 
not even be suspected to exist by such an observer. This remark 
applies, indeed, to a great portion of Scottish scenery, as well as 
to that under our present consideration — but the search after such 
unobtrusive portions of natural scenery is commonly well repaid to 
those who take the trouble to look for them — and assuredly this 
locality is as likely to afford the gratification that is sought for as 
most others to which the steps of the curious observer of nature 
could be directed. We shall have occasion, however, to allude 
more particularly to the most remarkable of these spots while glan- 
cing cursorily at the seats of the different proprietors. 

Geology^ — The geology of this district affords no very great scope 
for illustrative observations. The Lammermuir-hills, which bound 
the parish on the south, are known to belong to the transition se- 
ries, and they consist almost entirely of what has been called the 
greywacke rock. The extensive moor which stretches along the 



BORTHWICK. 165 

base of these hills, and which forms the higher and more southern 
portion of the parish, almost completely hides the junction of the 
transition with the more level country ; nor do I know of any one 
point at which the subjacent rock has been laid open. The secon- 
dary rocks, which constitute the chief material of the district, are 
first exposed, on a great scale, in the course of the stream which 
passes through Currie wood. 

I have not observed that the alluvial deposits, either of an older 
or more recent date, are more numerous or of greater depth in the 
neighbourhood of the hills than near the present level of the sea, 
although the contrary seems to be an opinion generally entertain- 
ed by geologists, and which, it may be, is verified by appearances 
in other places. In a quarry . which was lately opened near 
the upper part of Currie wood, the alluvial deposit which covers 
the rocks of the quarry contains many exquisitely formed discs of 
a very friable sandstone, of a rich purple or violet or red colour. 
They are so perfectly formed, that the nicest operation of th^ 
chisel could present nothing more complete. They easily fall to 
pieces when attempted to be broken, and stain the hand of a rich 
colour, according to the peculiar tint of the specimen. The allu- 
vial matter itself, where it is not absolutely formed into such discs, 
shews in many places, and on a greater scale> the same tendency 
to the disc form, — and the whole phenomena indicate a very peculiar 
and not yet understood action of the attractive and arranging forces 
at the time when the waters were retiring, and the alluvial deposit 
was in the process of arranging itself. 

On the summit of Cowbrae hill, which is at the upper boundary 
of the parish, and from which there is one of the richest and most 
extensive views in this part of the country, an immense mass of 
rock of the same material as the neighbouring hills, (the grey- 
wacke), is found lying at almost the very highest point of the hill. 
It is quite detached from the rocks constituting the hill itself, and 
the inquiry which naturally ofi'ers itself to all visitors is, whether it 
has been laid there by human art, or been transported by the agency 
of water, at a very early epoch of the history of our globe. There 
can be no doubt in the minds of those who are accustomed to such 
speculations, and who have seen many such appearances, that the 
latter of these two causes was the one which actually operated in 
this instance ; but the curious circumstance still remains of the 
deposit being at precisely such a point as human art would have 
chosen^ had it sought to rear a magnificent altar, from which the 



156 EDINBURGHSHIUK. 

offerings of the ruder and earlier inhabitants of the world might 
have ascended with peculiar pomp ; the point on which the alluvial 
mass rests being one of the most elevated and best fitted for an ex- 
tensive view over the whole surrounding landscape.* 

Masses of a deep-coloured basalt are frequently met with, — and, 
very near the eastern boundary of this parish, upon the farm of 
Sauchland, there is one great accumulation of this material, which 
might seem to be a quarry in its original state, but which is, in fact, 
a great alluvial deposit. 

The stratified rocks, as seen on the precipitous sides of Currie 
wood, consist of layers of a red-coloured and coarse-grained sand- 
stone, with intervening portions of a lighter-coloured variety of the 
same material, and with unformed masses of a substance composed 
partly of sandstone and calcareous matter, and partly of indurated 
clay, intersected by minute and lozenge-shaped veins of calcareous 
spar. Sandstone, limestone, and the coal metals are the rocks every • 
where occurring throughout the district. 

In general, the sandstone is much intermixed with calcareous 
matter, and is not considered as good for the purposes of architec- 
ture, — although there are some quarries which are regarded as va- 
luable for such humble purposes as are most required in a rural 
district The grain in general is coarse, but when exposed to 
the 'air, the stone hardens into a durable and not unseemly mass. 

From the great quantity of calcareous matter intermixed with 
the sandstone, the stone dikes often fall to pieces after they have 
been for a few years exposed to the action of the atmosphere. Yet 
the durable quality of the stone of which the Castle of Borthwick 
itself is built, and the fine edge which it still retains, have been 
subjects of admiration with all who have visited the ruin. There 
is reason to believe that the quarry from which its materials were 
obtained is in the heart of Currie wood, which is in its immediate 
vicinity ; so that there must be some stone of a peculiarly excel- 
lent kind under the surface in this neighbourhood, although that 
which is commonly obtained is liable to the waste we have already 
noticed. Crichton Castle presents a sad contrast, in this respect, 
to the present condition of the stone which has been used in the 
building of Borthwick Castle — the former being much crumbled 
and rounded in all its edges, while the latter is generally in as 

* I have since understood, that a stone coffin and some other signs of the spot 
having been used as a place of burial, have been found in the neighbourhood of this 
stone— so that, however it may have originally come there, it seems to have been after- 
wards used either as a monumental record or for the purpose of Druidical sacrifice. 



BORTHWICK. 157 

perfect a state as if it had been exposed for a comparatively short 
period to tho$e wasting causes which are incessantly at work. 

The limestone and coal of the district are excellent, and much 
sought for both by the inhabitants of Edinburgh, and by purchas- 
ers from the more southern towns of Scotland — some seams of the 
latter, on the estates of Arniston and Vogrie, being reckoned but 
little inferior to the famed caking coals of the English counties. 

Botany. — The oldest trees in the parish are-— those in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood of Arniston House — the venerable syca- 
mores which surround part of the church-yard of Borthwick — and a 
remarkable row of trees, amounting to twenty, which stand in the 
middle of a field on the north side of the valley of Borthwick. 
Strangers are apt to enquire why such a row of trees should pre- 
sent themselves in the middle of a cultivated field. The fact is, 
that the road into the valley passed in former times along the up- 
per side of these trees — and it is traditionally known, that the an- 
cient custom of the parish was, that when the coach of the Dundas 
iamily entered the western extremity of that row, on Sabbath days, 
the church bell was expected to begin to toll. There are also 
some fine old trees around the garden and ruinous house of Shank, 
and on the estates of Vogrie and Harvieston. A row of very aged 
hollies stands near the western end of the manse — and in the glen 
between Borthwick and Crichton, there are many large specimens of 
the same tree (the holly), which seems to be native to the district 
The present manse of Borthwick was formerly enclosed on the 
south by three large sycamores, but the former incumbent cut 
down two of them, for the purpose of admitting more light into the 
rooms. A row of large limes surrounds the old garden belonging to 
the Castle, which formerly occupied the sloping bank descending 
on the south*west of the Castle, towards the small stream which 
flows by the manse. The remarkable oak roots in Currie Wood 
are the remains of a forest of great antiquity, which has frequently 
been cut down, and from which at present but a few slender sap- 
lings are observed to be springing. 

A great deal of excellent old wood has been cut down on almost 
all the properties of the parish within the last jtwelve months ; and 
many of the glens and banks of the streams, which waved a few 
years since with trees that had resisted the storms of centuries, 
are now almost without a stem which bears on it the marks of 
age. However, young plantations have everywhere been forming 
on an extensive scale ; and there can be no doubt that the pro- 



158 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

prietors are in every instance acting on deliberate views, both of 
their personal interests, and of what is likely to be for the even- 
tual good of their estates. 

Generally, it may be said, that wood grows freely, and of good 
quality, throughout the different parts of the parish* It is known, 
however, to persons conversant with such matters, that the best 
woods for use are not always obtained from spots which are most 
remarkable for the speedy growth, and the luxuriant beauty of 
their living trees. It is also known that places which are in close 
proximity to each other are sometimes very differently disposed 
to the production of the hardest and most valuable woods ; and it 
is equally true, that the same quality of soil which is favourable 
to the most perfect formation of one kind of wood, is not equally 
propitious to the most healthy and useful condition of trees of 
another species. This variety seems in some measure to depend 
on causes which are not yet quite understood, and which cannot 
be entirely resolved either into the mere height of the climate, or 
the more speedy or tardy growth of the wood. But in general 
it is believed that the wood of this district is of a superior kind. 
The tree which seems to be most native to our glens and river 
sides is the ash. 

Of inferior plants, the deadly nightshade used to grow in too 
luxuriant crops among the ruins of the Castle ; but of late I have 
found some difficulty in tracing the plants, perhaps because, in my 
fear lest the children of the parish might suffer from the use of 
the glossy and inviting berries, I have been in the habit of cutting 
down the plants before the fruit was perfectly ripe. 

Abundance of wild roses, some of which are of superior tint 
and flavour, blossom on all the hill sides ; and the soil under the 
shade of the more luxuriant woods, and along the banks of the 
different streams, is btten thickly overlaid with a goi^eous carpet, 
woven of the most beautiful and elegantly formed of the produc- 
tions of Flora. 

The present Professor of Botany in the University of Edinburgh, 
who wisely accustoms his students to researches in the open fields, 
frequently makes this neighbourhood the scene of his exploratory 
rambles with his pupils. The sides of the streams on the estate 
of Arniston are peculiarly rich in such plants as grow under the 
shade of lofty trees, and in moist and cool situations. The swampy 
glens between Borthwick and Crichton are equally prolific of such 
plants as usually grow in such situations. The sloping braes are 



BORTHWICK. 159 

often beautified by flowers which every botanist delights to meet 
with ; and the upland moors, which are so delightful on many ac- 
counts, are not the least so from the beauty and elegance, and of- 
ten the minute forms, and fine odours of the plants which there 
^^ blush unseen, and waste their sweetness on the desert air." 

On one patch of moorland lying near the eastern boundary of 
the parish, there is a species of dwarf whin, not much exceeding 
in size the common crowfoot, which it much resembles, and for 
which, with its yellow and scarlet streaked flowers, it might readily 
be mistaken. The curious in such matters would value it highly. 

Generally, this neighbourhood is an excellent field for the ram- 
bles of a young botanist The plants are both numerous, and of 
considerable variety, corresponding with the character of the ground 
which the explorer may select I have not observed any thing, 
however, -which could be considered as of great rarity. 

Zoology. — The castle is the seat of a colony of jackdaws, whose 
flights and chatterings take something from its loneliness during the 
day time. Like all other colonies of the same bird, they contrive to 
keep up their number, but never are observed to have increased it 
No person remembers them to have been more or less in number 
than at present. 

The white owl regularly issues towards evening, with a triumph- 
ant scream, from the upper windows of the castle, and hunts for 
mice and other food of a similar kind over the glebe and the ad- 
joining fields. It flies when oh this search so low, that I was once 
almost struck by it, when circling the base of a green knoll, from 
the other side of which it was coming, without having observed 
me. I had full time to observe the brilliant and ruby-like lustre 
of its large eyes, as it keenly surveyed the ground for its prey. 

Starlings frequently breed in the ruins of the old church, and 
in the cavities of the aged sycamores which wave over it. Two 
summers ago, three pairs of these birds built their nests in these 
places. They used regularly to fly off* about mid-day to the up- 
land, at some distance, in search of food. 

The heron is often seen fishing in the hollows, through which 
the burn flows, — and rises slowly and heavily into the air when 
alarmed. His higher flight is vigorous and swift 

Flights of wild geese regularly pass over us to the moors, where 
they have their favourite feeding-grounds. These birds are pro- 
verbial for leading men on a perplexed and fruitless search ; but 
I once witnessed a guzzled and diverting condition of their own 



160 EDINBUUGHSHIRE. 

phalanx. The day had suddenly become foggy to an uncommon 
degree. As I was amusing myself in my garden, I heard the 
wild geese advancing at some distance. When they had come 
almost directly over the spot where I was, they seemed to have 
become seized with an immediate panic, from an apprehension 
that they had either lost their way, or could .no longer proceed in 
safety through the mist. The noise they made in consequence 
was like the twanging of a thousand instruments of brass. Some- 
times they seemed to descend in a body so near the earth, that a 
stone thrown vigorously from the hand might, as it seemed, have 
brought some of them to the ground. Again they mounted to a 
much greater height, — and the noise and the perplexity continued 
for about twenty minutes — the birds still hovering over nearly the 
same spot of ground. No person who heard the noise could doubt 
that their fear and perplexity were eJttreme. At length they found 
some way of escape, — but whether a breeze had opened up to them 
the distant prospect which they sought for — or whether they had 
ascended to a higher region above the fog— or whether some goose 
more sagacious and possessed of greater authority than the rest» 
had undertaken to pilot them through the mist, I was not 
able to determine. The impression, however, on my mind at the 
time was, that they were a very fit emblem of some popular as- 
semblies which I have seen, when, like the wild geese, they too are 
at a stand about some puzzling question, and know not how to 
proceed. The noise and the dissonance were very much of the 
same kind. 

The blackcock is a much rarer bird in this district than in for- 
mer years — but grouse, snipes, plovers, and woodcocks abound on the 
moors and in the swampy grounds. Fieldfares come regi.larly in flocks 
to feed on the berries of the old hollies beside the manse, and 
pheasants are in great plenty in all the woods. The water-hen and 
water-crow are frequent in the course of all the streams. 

In severe winters several strange birds visit us. During the sin- 
gularly severe and long-continued storm of 1822-23, we were 
visited by some of the swans which at that time were seen in dif- 
ferent parts of the island. I did not suspect what they were, till 
they rose from the side of the stream with their fine musical note, 
and made their way with great magnificence of wing to a more 
distant scene. 

Foxesvfrequently breed in the Chirmatj (a piece of wooded hill which 
fronts the windows of my room.) I have amused myself occasion- 



BORTHWICK. 161 

ally with observing the gambols of the young ones, who come to 
the hole's mouth about the time of the setting sun, and frolic with 
much apparent want of suspicion as to their obnoxious character. 
The mother is commonly on the watch at the same time, and screams 
fearfully if she thinks her young ones in danger. The old foxes, at 
certain seasons, come down, after it is dark, to the side of the 
stream, and amuse us with their barking. 

At this moment there is a litter of young badgers in the 8ame 
place, (the Chirmat). The country is much overrun by rabbits. 
The white weasel, with its tail tipped with black, is sonietimes seen 
hastening to its hole in the old stone walls. Hedgehogs are very 
common — a fact of which I was not aware, till I observed the num- 
bers caught by my dog in his rambles — and squirrels gambol on all 
the trees of the larger woods. Rats are in great plenty along the 
course of all the streams — but they too are better known to my poodle, 
who has studied their migrations, among all the tree roots and by the 
water courses, with great assiduity, and sometimes very profound* 
fyi by day and by night, for the last ten years. — I know not whe- 
ther the popular opinion be well founded, that rats will not come 
where goats are kept, but certain it is, that, though they have occa- 
sionally been troublesome to my neighbours, they have never come 
near my house, on the braes beside which a picturesque white 
goat has long browsed. 

The glow-worm, which has probably been seen by but a few of 
the inhabitants of the neighbouring metropolis, and which is not 
often met with in Scotland, is one of the most attractive objects 
to persons who occasionally visit our valley in search of what is 
beautiful and rare. During most of the summer evenings it may be 
seen in considerable numbers along the valley which intervenes 
between the castles of Borthwick add Crichton, — although from 
the extensive drainings which have lately taken place in this glen, 
the worms are less abundant than they were in former years. Their 
beautiful greenish light among the dewy grass or by the sides of 
the footpath, never fails to awaken the admiration of all observers, 
and would form a treat worthy of a visit on purpose — were it not 
that the later hours of the evening are the only tittie for witnes- 
sing the sight^to a great many persons, who have never actually 
witnessed one of the most lovely spectacles presented by the 
minuter works of nature ; though there are few persons who have 
not some pleasbg impressions gained from reading, and especially 
from poetic description with this phenomenon. * 

* The glow-worm (LampyrU noctUucaJ, when seen by daylight, is a short and 
EDINBURGH. L 



162 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

IL — Civil History, 
Family of Borthroick. — The name Borthwick, which b one of 

the few that are used to designate at once a fiunily and a posses- 
sion, does not bear on it the marks of pure British origin, and there 
seems, therefore, to be reason for adopting the opinion very gene- 
rally expressed by antiquaries, that it had come into this island 
with some of the families^ that are known to have migrated from 
the continent during the earlier periods of our history. 

It is certain, that the particular district of which we are now 
treating did not give its name to the family, but received its terri- 
torial designation from them, for it was anciently called Locher- 
wart, and took the name of Borthwick only afber it became die 
property of the family of that name. 

There are the ruins of a very ancient castle on the estate of 
Harvieston, which are traditionally assigned as the seat of the fa- 
mily before it became possessed of the domain of Locherwart, to 
which it afterwards gave the name of Borthwick* These ruins go 
bv the name of the old Castle of Catcune, and it is certain that the 
family were promiscuously designed by the titles of Catcune, Le- 
gertwood, and Herriot-Muir, before they assumed the title of 
Borthwick of that Ilk. 

The family of Hay, which afterwards became possessors of the 
domain of Yester, and finally Marquisses of Tweeddale, were at 
that time occupiers of the domain of Locherwart, and are accfrd- 
ingly designated in all the writings of that period. Hays of Locher- 
wart. The Borthwicks and the Hays appear to have been thus 

thick ^worm of a dingy and by.no means inviting appearance. No person would sup- 
pose from \t& daylight aspect, that its brilliancy during the lattf hours of eiwniiig 
eould be so beautifuL The light, which the worm has the power to extinguish at 
pleasure, proceeds from three whitish-coloured rings towards the extremity of the 
body — the luminous matter is a yellow substance contained in vesicles,—- when these 
resiclcs are removed entire, they shine for some time— but when lacerated they are 
ftpeedily extinguished. The worm can at any time extinguish its light, when it is 
handled or put into a state of fear. 

These worms b^in to shine in the month of June, and may be seen till September. 

I have remarked that they are seen in greatest numbers on misty and warm evenings. 

' They put out their lights between eleven and twelve at ni^ht. If they are put un-> 

der a glass cover they give light, within doors, for several weeks—they gradually de> 

posit the luminous matter and die. 

The male is a dingy coloured scarabanis, and may be seen on every stalk of grass 
on which the light of the female is shining. The light, besides its extreme beaaty, ia 
a remarkable provision of Nature aSbrded to so unlikely a creature-«>and sofiir as we 
understand for such a purpose. 

I have occasionally met in the same glen in which the glow-worms are found, with 
that curious appearance, sometimes caUed by the country people the &Uen star. — It 
is a clear gelatinous substance, resembling the medusa which is found along the sea 
shore. It has no definite shape^-and I have never been able ijo satisfy myself as to 
its origin. It is only seen after broken weatheiw-and my impressioa is, that it iaa 
production of the atmosphere. Of this, however, I am not certain. 



BORTHWICK, 168 

• 

neighbours and extensive proprietors in this part of the country; 
and there is a tradition relating to the old Castle of Catcune, that 
while it was inhabited by one of the Borthwick family, the pos- 
sessor had fallen in love with and married a lady of the family of 
Hay — and that it was in consequence of this connexion that the 
Haysy who had now become Lords of Yester, consented to give 
up a portion of their property to the Knight of Catcune, and to 
favour his plan of eventually building a more magnificent castle for 
the residence of himself and his lady. The more common tradi- 
tion, however^ is, that the lady belonged to the house of Douglas. 

There seem to have been two persons of the title of Sir William 
Borthwick, who were occupiers of the Castle of Catcune — and who 
preceded that Sir William who built the Castle of Borthwick, and 
became the first Lord of that name. 

This third Sir William was a person of great talents, — was often 
employed in important negociations — and made a figure in most of 
the public transactions of his time. He was created Lord Borthwick 
about the year 1430, and obtained from King James L, a special li- 
cense for erecting upon the spot called the Mote of Locherwart a 
castle or fortalice, to surround it with walls and ditches, to defend it 
with gates of brass or iron, and to place upon the summit defensive 
ornaments, by which is meant battlements and turrets : he was fur* 
ther empowered to place in the castle so erected a constable, a por- 
ter» and all other persons and things necessary for the defence 
thereof. Such was the origin of the Castle of Borthwick. 

In an aisle of the old church may still be seen two monumental 
statues, in a recumbent posture, and in good preservation, of this 
first Lord Borthwick and his Lady. His Lordship is in full armour — 
he has the countenance of a man of middle age, with a sagacious and 
manly expression, and such as was not unlikely to have captivated, 
in his more youthful years, any daughter that the house of Hay — 
or the still more renowned house of Douglas — could have furnished 
.to him. His lady is a beautiful female figure, of a gentle and 
handsome cast of* features, and dressed in the full robes of her 
time. Their monument was formerly surrounded by several infan- 
tine figures, which have now entirely disappeared; but the tradi- 
tion is, that the parents had a numerous ofispring, who are all bu- 
ried in the same spot. The workmanship of the statues is exactly 
euch as was common at that particular time, when the persons re- 
presented are known to have lived ; — and it is interesting in the 
highest degree, both as giving us a perfect idea of the style of 



164 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

• 

dress which was common at that period, and as exhibiting, which 
we have no doubt that it does, a pretty correct likeness of the fea- 
tures which actually belonged to the persons represented. 

The second Lord Borthwick was one of the hostages, long be- 
fore the de»ith of his father, for King James's ransom. He was 
afterwards sent as ambassador to the Court of Rome^ and, latter- 
ly, he was sent not fewer than three times as ambassador to the 
Court of England. He seems to have been, like his father, a 
man of superior talents, and much trusted by his superiors. 

William, the third Lord, was also employed in a similar man* 
ner. He was slain, with many of his brave countrymen and their 
royal leader, James IV., at the Battle of Flodden. The proprie- 
tor of the neighbouring Castle of Crichton also fell on that disas- 
trous day. 

William, the fourth Lord, married Margaret Hay, daughter of 
John Lord Yester, by whom he had a son, from whom all the sub- 
sequent Lords descended. 

John, the fifth Lord, was ** a great loyalist — a steady friend af 
Queen Mary, and never deserted her interest in her greatest dis- 
tress, on which account he suffered many hardships.'' He died 
before the year 1572, and was succeeded by 

William, the sixth Lord, who married Grizel, daughter of Sir 
Walter Scott, ancestor of the Duke of Buccleuch, by whom he 
had a son, 

James, the seventh Lord Borthwick, who married Margaret 
Hay, daughter of William Lord Hay of Yester, ancestor of the 
Marquis of Tweeddale. He was succeeded by his grandson, 

John, the eighth Lord Borthwick. He is described as having 

been a man of great honour and loyalty. He adhered firmly to 

the cause of the royal family, during all the time of the civil war. 

After the murder of the King, he held out his Castle of Borthwick 

against Cromwell ; and, at last, when forced to surrender, obtained 

very honourable terms, viz» liberty to march out with bis lady and 

family unmolested, having been allowed fifteen days time to remove 

their effects. 

He was succeeded by his son, John, the ninth Lord Borthwick, 

who married the daughter of Robert Earl of Lothian, and died 
without issue in 1672. 

After the death of this ninth Lord, the castle and barony be- 
came the property of John Dundas of Harviestone, nephew of the 
deceased Lord Borthwick, and grandson of Sir James Dundas, of 



BORTHWICR. 165 

the distinguished family of Arniston. It passed afterwards, by 
purchase, into the family of Dalrymple of Cowsland^ — from them 
to the family of Mitchelson of Middleton, — ^and is now in possession 
of John Borthwick, Esq. of Crookston, — a branch of the ancient 
family from which the ruins derived their name, and who ^^ is 
equally interested in their preservation, and disposed to attend to 
it.'' 

We may now look back on a few remarkable incidents which 
are ascertained to have occurred during the period of which we 
have been treating. The following whimsical incident occurred at 
the Castle of Berth wick in the year 1547. We give it in the 
words of Sir Walter Scott, who has published his authority in an 
extract from the Consistory Register of St Andrews : the story 
may therefore be relied on as a fact 

'^ In consequence of a process betwixt Master George Hay de 
Minzeans and the Lord Borthwick, letters of excommunication had 
passed against the latter, on account of the contumacy of certain 
witnesses. William Langlands, an apparitor or macer {baadaritis) 
of the see of St Andrews, presented these letters to the curate of 
the church of Borthwick, requiring him to publish the same at the 
service of high mass. It seems that the inhabitants of the castle 
were at this tiuae engaged in the favourite sport of enacting the 
Abbot of Unreason, a species of highjinks^ in which a mimic pre- 
late was elected, who, like the Lord of Misrule in England, turn- 
ed all sort of lawful authority, and particularly the church Ri- 
tual, into ridicule. This frolicsome person with his retinue, 
notwithstanding of the apparitor's character, entered the church, 
seized upon the primate's oflScer without hesitation, and dragging 
him to the mill-dam on the south side of the castle, compelled him 
to leap into the water. Not contented with this partial immersion, 
the Abbot of Unreason pronounced, that Mr William Langlands 
was not yet sufficiently bathed, and therefore caused his assistants 
to lay him on his back in the stream, and duck him in the most 
satisfactory and perfect manner. The unfortunate apparitor was 
then conducted back to the church, where, for his refreshment 
after his bath, the letters of excommunication were torn to pieces, 
and steeped in a bowl of wine ; the mock abbot being probably of 
opinion that a tough parchment was but dry eating. Langlands 
was compelled to eat the letters, and swallow the wine, with the 
comfortable assurance, that if any more such letters should arrive 
during the continuance of his office, they should * a' gang the same 



266 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

gait.' '* This incident happened, we have said, in the time of th^ 
fifth Lord Borthwick, and in the year 1547, — that is to say, at a 
period when the principles of the Reformation were in active opera- 
tion among all ranks, — and when the ceremonies and power of the 
ancient church were beginning to be treated with a license at least 
as great as had been the slavish power with which they previously 
had been regarded. Certainly, at no other time would such an 
insult to an officer of the church have been thought of. 

It was during the lifetime of the same Lord, that the beautiful 
and unfortunate Queen occasionally visited this castle, and at last 
took refuge in it, before she entered on the long series of her hu-^ 
miliations and griefs. We find in^ Cecil's Journal the follovring 
entries respecting her occasional visits. It must be kept in mind 
that Both well was Lord of Crichton Castle, and that, therefore, 
he and the Lord Borthwick, as near neighbours, were likely to 
take the part of each other. 

*^ October 7, 1566. My Lord Bothwell was hurt in Liddis- 
dale, and the Queen raid to Borthwick. 

^^ June 7, 1567. He (Bothwell) purposed and raid against the 
Lord Houme and Femherst, and so passed to Melrose, and sfie to 
Borthtvick. 

*^ June 11, 1567. The Lords came suddenly to Borthwick; 
Bothwell fled to Dunbar, and the Lords retired to Edinburgh, 
she followed Bothwell to Dunbar disguised." 

" This," continues Sir Walter, '* might, in any ordinary histo-^ 
rical investigation, seem a sufficient notice of what passed. But 
the history of Mary Stuart is invested with an interest as well as a 
mystery which attaches to no other part of Scottish history." — 
*< The following more minute detail of the anxious moment in 
which she escaped from Borthwick is taken from a letter of James 
Beaton, the Archbishop of Glasgow, written to his brother, An- 
drew, for the information of that active prelate, dated 17th June 
1567." The writer, who had faithfully conveyed to Mary the 
news of the disasters that seemed to threaten her, says> that he 
found her '^ so quiet at Borthwick, that there was none with her 
passing six or seven persons." 

** Ye sail understand," continues the letter, *^ how the said 
(11th June 1567) day my Lords of Morton, Mar, Hume, Lind-^ 
say, &c. with sundry odderris barronis, to the nommer of nine hun- 
dredth or a thousand horsemen, arryvit in the morning about Borth-» 
wick, in deliberation to comprehend and tak my I^rd Dak» wha 



BOttTUWlCK. 167 

was in the said place with the Queenis Majestie. My Lord Duk 
hearing of this enterprize, thinking well he could be in naair secu- 
ritie in the field than in ane house, passit forth and red away. 

*^ Her Majestie, in mennis claithes, butit and spurrit, departit 
that samin nicht of Borthwick to Dunbar, quhairof na man knew 
3aif my Lord Duk and sum of his servants, wha met her Majestie 
a myll off Borthwick, and conveyed her hieness to Dunbar." 

^* There seems," says Sir Walter, *^ to have been an interval 
of nearly two days betwixt the escape of Bothwell from Borth- 
wick Castle and the subsequent flight of the Queen in disguise to 
Dunbar. If during that interval, Mary could have determined on 
separating her fortunes from those of the deservedly detested Both- 
well, her page in history might have closed more happily."* 

As the fifth Lord Borthwick was a faithful adherent of Queen 
Mary, his great grandson, John the eighth Lord, was a follower 
of the King during the great civil war. After the unfortunate battle 
at Dunbar, and while the victorious troops of Cromwell were de- 
vastating the Lothians, Borthwick Castle held out gallantly, and 
the garrison employed themselves to the last in annoying the enemy. 
This soon drew upon them the vengeance of Cromwell, who sent 
the following characteristic summons, dated at Edinburgh 18th No- 
vember 1650, and endorsed, ^^ For the Governor of Borthwick 
Castle, these : — Sir, — I thought fitt to send this trumpett to you, 
to let you know, that if you please to walk away with your com- 
pany, and deliver the house to such as I shall send to receive it, you 
shall have liberty to carry off your armes and goods, and such other 
necessaries as you have. You harboured such parties in your house, 
as have basely and inhumanely murdered our men ; if you necessi- 
tate me to bend my cannon against you, you must expect what I 
doubt you will not be pleased with. I expect your present answer, 
and rest your servant, O. Cromwell." 

Notwithstanding this very significant epistle, the Governor of 
Borthwick Castle, supposed to have been Lord Borthwick himself, 

* The place at which the Queen is understood to have met with the servants of 
Bothwell when she escaped from Borthwick Castle, '* butit and spurred, and in the gutze 
of a page,** — is Cakemuir, which lies at a short distance across the moor towards the 
south-east. Mary's flight, therefore, was necessarily across that wild an J open tract of 
heathy country, which intervenes between Borthwick and Cakemuir. A room which 
she occupied in this latter castle is still shewn. She proceeded from this, in company 
with BothweU*s servants, towards Linton on her way to Dunbar. At Linton she 
met Bothwell, and came bock with him to Faside Castle and Carberry hill,— where, 
exactly one month after their unfortunate marriage, they parted for ever, — he to be- 
come a pirate and a madman, and to die in a dungeon in Denmark— and she to en- 
dure a long life of captivity and sorrow, and at last to perish by a Lloody execution. 



168 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

held out the fortress, until artillery was opened upon it, and tbensur* 
rendered it upon honourable terms. The place, where the Protector's 
cannons were stationed, seems to have been the rising ground im- 
mediately behind the house at present occupied by the proprie^ 
tor of Currie ; — and whether by good luck, or by advice from with- 
in, Cromwell seems to have directed his artillery against the very 
part of the wall, which was most likely soon to yield to his strength, 
there being a chimney at that place, which renders the wall less 
thick there than it is throughout the rest of the building. The 
effect of the cannonading is still visible on the eastern wall of the 
castle* Attempts, it is said, have been repeatedly made to repair 
the damage done to the wall ; but, from the difficulty of uniting 
the ancient and the modem masonry, these attempts have been 
unsuccessful. 

It appears from the foregoing review, that the Lords Borthwick 
were, throughout the whole series of them, men of superior talents, 
and of great respectability of character. They took an active part in 
all public and important transactions, — nor are there any names 
that occur more frequently as attending on the Scottish estates of 
Parliament. The vicinity of the family residence to Edinbui^h 
may no doubt in some measure account for the latter circumstance ; 
but it has also been well suggested, ^^ that their power and talents, 
unquestionably, rendered them able counsellors and powerful as- 
sistants of the royal authority." 

The possessions belonging to this family seem at one time to 
have^ been immense. In the conveyance of the Borthwick estates, 
executed August 1st 1538, there are comprehended the Moat of 
Lochquarret, the Castle of the same, called the Castle of Borth- 
wick ; half of Bateland in the county of Edinburgh ; Borthwick in 
Selkirkshire ; Legerwood, Glengelt, Colinlaw, and Brown House 
in Berwickshire; Ormiston, Herriot, Herriot-Muir, Hethpule, and 
Whitfield in the county of Peebles ; and Aberdour in Aberdeen- 
shire ; which lands, by this deed, are destined to William, Lord 
Borthwick ; John Borthwick, his son, and apparent heir ; Sir John 
Gordon of Gordon Hall ; and William Borthwick of Crookstone, 
and their heirs-male respectively. 

But iamilies, like everything else under the sun, have their 
times of rise, of grandeur, and of ultimate decline — nor will even 
general propriety of conduct altogether reverse this universal law. 
The immense possessions of this once powerful and respectable 
family have long fallen to other occupants — their race has become 



BORTHWICK. 169 

almost extinct — and the scene of their greatness and splendour is 
an uninhabited and fast crumbling ruin. 

It is solemn, amidst such thoughts, to stand, while the shadows 
of evening are falling on the surrounding glen, beside the ever* 
murmuring brook that hastens down the valley — and to permit the 
scene before us, to make its natural impression on our minds. A 
few scattered lights are beaming from the humble windows of the 
lowly cottages that lie under the shadow of the ruin — ^the castle itself, 
in all its gloomy and solitary grandeur, still lifts its imposing mass 
into the dusky air — and over all are the enduring lights of heaven, 
which have witnessed, without change, so many revolutions among 
the dwellings of men — and which are destined, through the- long 
coming years of the history of our race, to shine on so many myriads 
who have as yet no intimation of the wonders of that ever-varying 
scene into which they are eventually to be ushered. The pre* 
sent, the past, and the future, are thus brought, by the different 
features of the scene, at one moment before us — and each portion 
of the picture derives additional interest from the others with which 
it b associated. The effect of the whole b an impression that is 
at once solemn and imposing. 

After the termination of the male line in the ninth Lord, who 
was lineally descended from the first son of the third Lord, 
the line of succession reverted to the descendants of Alexander, the 
second son of the third Lord Borthwick — that is, of him who fell 
at Flodden. The last person of this line who claimed the titles 
and honours of Lord Borthwick, and whose claim was admitted, was 
Henry, commonly called the tenth Lord Borthwick. He obtain- 
ed the title in 1750 — and had voted, at all elections of the Peers 
from 1734. His claim, however, was afterwards disallowed. 

The title and honours are now disputed — nor does there seem 
to be any probability that the dispute will soon be decided. 

The name of Borthwick still belongs to several persons in this 
neighbourhood, most of whom have some traditional story to tell 
of their connexion with the distinguished and noble family to 
whom the castle once belonged. There is, in fact, a general cast 
of features, which may be traced as belonging to most persons bear- 
ing this surname. 

It is pleasing to recollect, that the castle, of whose occupants 
we have been detailing the history, has not been stained or ren- 
dered in any respect horrible to the imagination by the perpetra- 
tion of any of those darker and more atrocious crimes, which were so 



170 EDINDUR'JHSHIRE. 

• 

common in Scotland during the times of the Jiwoeses, and which 
still seem to adhere in gloomy colours to the ruins that awaken our 
interest. Even the festivities of Mary, with her profligate para- 
mour, were but acts of friendly and liberal hospitality to the distress 
sed on the part of the ^oble family by whom that hospitality was 
afforded — and it deserves to be remarked, that the warning note <^ 
insurrection and of coming vengeance was first heard amidst the 
hospitable festivities of this place, as if it had been intended to in- 
timate that its long course of domestic respectability must no long* 
er be sullied by such a contrast Scarcely any recollection, ac- 
cordbgly, haunts the visitant of this castle, but such as is genial 
and pleasant to be indulged. 

Eminent Men. — The person whose connection with this parish 
will probably in all future times be considered as its highest ho- 
nour, was the late learned and celebrated Principal Robertson. 
He was born in the present manse of Berth wick in the year 1721, 
and retained to his last hours an affectionate recollection of the 
scene of his boyish sports and early aspirings after fame. 

Few families in any country have had the good fortune to give 
rise to such an unbroken series of distinguished men, as those 
which have sprung from the house of Arniston. 

Sir James Dundas, the first Baron of Arniston, Governor of 
Berwick and knighted by King James V., was the third son of 
George Dundas of Dundas, by Katherine, daughter of Lawrence 
Lord Oliphant. 

His son. Sir James Dundas of Arniston, though not bred to the 
law, was made a Judge of the Court of Session in 1662. He lost 
his seat in the Court of Session for refusing to abjure the Nation- 
al Covenant, except in so far as it had led to deeds of actual re- 
bellion. He retired to the family estate. of Arniston, where he 
spent the remainder of his days in domestic happiness — and in 
cultivating a taste for polite learning. He died in 1679. 

Robert, his eldest son, filled the situation of one of the Judges of 
the Court of Session, during the long period of thirty-seven years, 
with great honour and integrity. 

His son became ultimately President of the Court, and is al- 
lowed to have been a person of surpassing talent both for elo- 
quence and for legal business. He conducted the celebrated case of 
Carnegie of Finhaven, and established the right of Scottish juries 
to return a verdict on the guilt or innocence of the accused. He 
died, 26th August 1753.- 



BORTHWICK. 171 

By his first wife Elizabeth, daughter of Robert Watson, Esq. 
of Muirhouse, he left a son who became one of the most distin- 
guished Presidents this country has ever had — and of his second 
marriage sprung the Right Honourable Henry Diindas, afterwards 
Lord Melville — ^than whom Scotland has seldom had a better 
friend, or Great Britain an abler counsellor. 

The last President Dundas was succeeded in his estate by his 
son Robert, who ultimately became Chief Baron — and whose rare 
excellencies of understanding and of character rendered him an ob- 
ject both of admiration and of love to all classes of the com munity. 

Antiquities, — The Castle of Borthwick is remarkable for the 
beauty of its proportions — the excellence of its masonry — and the 
impressive effect which it produces on all beholders. It has been 
pronounced by the best judges to be by far the finest specimen of 
that very numerous class of Scottish Castles, which consist of a 
single Donjon or tower surrounded by an embattled walL The 
proportions are 74 by 68 feet without the walls — and about 110 
feet from the adjacent area to the highest part of the roof. The 
walls, which are of hewn stone, are 13 feet thick near the bottom 
of the building — and gradually contract towards the top to about 
6 feet 

The entrance was formerly by an outer stair and drawbridge — 
which are now in ruins ; — they formed what in ancient times was 
called a perron or ramp. Besides the sunk story— the build- 
ing consists of two large halls, the one above the other — and of 
two flights of bed-rooms, occupying two projecting portions of the 
building, as viewed from the west The lower hall is one of the 
most elegant and finely proportioned of all those that can still be 
seen in any of the numerous ruins that give interest to the scenery of 
Scotland. ^* It is," says Nisbet, <^ so large and high in the roof, 
that a man on horseback might turn a spear in it with all the ease 
imaginable." The roof has been painted with such devices as oc- 
cur in old illuminations, over one part of which is still legible, in 
Gothic characters^ Ye Temple of Honor. <^ Stately and magni- 
ficent as the Hall of Borthwick is in itself, it is no less rich in as- 
sociations. Here/' it has been justly said, ^* we may suppose the 
Abbot of Unreason to have exercised his frolics. Here 

" The ttern Protector of the conquered land** 

received the keys of the castle, into which his cannon had forced 
an entrance. But, aI)ove all, the image of Queen Mary, feasting 
with her unworthy Bothwell, startled from revelry by the voice of 



172 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

insurrection, and finally obliged to escape in the disguise of a page, 
comes before us with that deep interest, which is excited by every 
vicissitude of her melancholy story." In pacing through the so- 
litude of this august room, the words of the plaintive ditty can 
scarce be absent from the mind of the visitor : 

** I feel like one who treads alone 

Some banquet hall deserted, 
Whose lights are fled, whose garland's dead, 

And au but me departed.** 

There is one small room in this castle, which is unique in its* 
position, and unlike the rest in its dimensions ; but it has an inde- 
scribable interest attached to it. It goes by the name of the 
Queen's Room. Like all those celebrated in the history of Mary, 
it is of diminutive size ; but bears marks of having been hung with 
tapestry. In most of the old castles, there was a room of this 
kind, which went by the name of the Lady's Bower ; and there 
can be little doubt, that this was the identical room occupied by 
Mary during the few last days in which she qould be considered 
as her own mistress ; — from that room she went to all her sorrows. 

The roof of the upper hall shows striking symptoms of decay. 
*Should it fall into the hall beneath, the damage will be incalcula- 
ble : and the present state of the neighbouring Castle of Crichton, 
one of the ancient towers of which now covers the court-yard with 
a hideous ruin, may serve as a warning of what will ensue, if the 
roof of Borthwick should in like manner be rent asunder. 

No part of the castle has been inhabited for more than a century. 
Some of the ancient furniture, however, has been preserved, and is 
at present, I believe, in the possession of the proprietor, viz. an old 
oak chair, with low seat and arms, and a high back, covered with 
coronets, — an extremely curious clock, — and, I believe, a lamp, 
which last, however, I have not seen. 

The old church of Borthwick, the ruins of which still stand in 
the churchyard, and which, from the style of its architecture, is 
evidently of the same age, nearly, with the castle, is well deserving 
of notice. It is beside what was formerly the place where the al- 
tar stood, that the eflSgies of Lord and Lady Borthwick are lying. 
When used as the parish church, it must have been an object of 
much veneration to the parishioners, and have harmonized finely 
with the other objects of antiquity in its neighbourhood. Indeed, it 
was of itself fitted to have given a character to the surrounding 
scenery. Its roof, like that of the castle, is covered with stone 



BORTHWICK. 173 

flags, curiously joined, and in some places laid diagonally. It 
was burnt in May 1775. 

We have formerly noticed that there are some portions of the 
very ancient Castle of Catcune still remaining within the grounds 
of Harvieston. The ground in its neighbourhood shows that the 
building has at one time been extensive. The situation is retired 
and beautiful, but the architecture seems to have been rude and 
unomamented. 

On the brow of the elevated farm of Halfla Hill, there were 
some years ago two stone troughs, placed on square pedestals. One • 
of the troughs may still be seen in the churchyard of Borthwick. 
They were popularly called the Roman Altars, but antiquaries can 
find no resemblance to any thing Roman in them. Over the moor 
which forms the south part of the parish, there are cairns which, 
when opened, have been found to contain rude urns filled with 
burnt bones. Stone-cofiins, too, have been dug up in some parts 
of the parish. 

Currie-mill may also be mentioned, on another account, as 
among the antiquities of the parish. It was built, says tradition, by 
the original possessor of the surrounding domain, so that the Lord 
of the new castle might not be without hearing of the clack of its 
wheel. It continKOs a separate property to the present day. 

Propnttari Seats. — There are six proprietors in the parish-— 
all of whom, except one, are resident. They are, Dundas of Ar- 
niston — Mitchelson of Middleton — Dewar of Vogrie — Brown of 
Currie— Borthwick of Crookston — and Cranston of Harvieston. 
The mansion-house of Crookston is the only one not in the parish, 
it being in the neighbouring parish of Stow, where the chief pos« 
sessions oT the proprietor lie. He has two fiirms in Borthwick pa- 
rish, on one of which the castle is situated, of which, therefore, he 
is the present proprietor. 

Amistan House is on a scale suited to the extensive possessions 
and influential character of the family. It is not a very ancient 
structure — but has a general aspect of baronial dignity and afflu- 
ence — and its architecture is massy and imposing. It has long 
been celebrated for its open-hearted hospitality — and is very ge- 
nerally named with veneration and gratitude, both ou account of 
the character of its inmates — and for the scenes of festive and 
manly enjoyment of which it has been the scene. 

The land belonging to this property is not naturally of a very rich 
or productive quality— being rather spongy in its texture, and 



1 74 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

apt, unless well treated, to fall hack speedily into its natural 
state — but much, as might be expected, has been done to aug«- 
ment its capabilities — and the progress of improvement is still car- 
ried on with spirit 

The original domain, which lies contiguous to the house, is re- 
markable for many old and venerable trees, and may easily be dis* 
tinguished by the aspect of its wood from the neighbouring pro- 
perties which have been successively added to it-^and which now 
form with it one continuous domain. 

The banks of the South Esk, within this domain, are of disdn* 
guished beauty and most picturesque effect The banks of the North 
Esk, indeed, are more generally known, being more in the vicini- 
ty of the metropolis, and on a greater scale ; — and though there is 
certainly nothing in the course of the more southern stream that 
can vie with Roslin — or Hawthornden — or even with the scenery 
in the neighbourhood of Lasswade and Springfield, yet there is 
much which is fitted to awaken the liveliest emotions of delight, 
and which might, with much effect, employ the skill of the profes- 
sional draftsman, or of the amateur copyist of natural scenery. 

Immediately around the mansion-house, and along the banks of 
the small stream which flows behind it, are several trees of rare 
occurrence, of majestic size, and with which a zealous botan- 
ist would be delighted to become acquainted. The successive 
proprietors of this domain have always been zealous improvers of 
their property by planting — and the late Chief Baron kept a small 
manuscript volume, in which he occasionally inserted such notices, 
as he could obtain, of the operations, in this line, of those who had 
preceded him — and of what had been done by himself for extend- 
ing these operations. 

Shank Point, which belongs to this property, has been celebrat- 
ed by Graham in the subjoined lines, which may be considered as 
at once a correct topographical description of the locality*— and a 
rich poetical picture of the scenery which surrounds it. 

" What though fair Scotland's Tallies rarely Taunt, 

The oak majestical, whose aged boughs 

Darken a rood breadth ! yet nowhere is seen 

More beauteously profiise, wild underwood ; 

Nowhere *tis seen more beauteously profuse. 

Than on thy tangling banks, well-wooded Esk, 

And Borthwick, thine, above that fairy nook 

Formed by your blending streams. — The hawthorn there. 

With moss and lichen grey, dies of old age, 

No steel profiuie permitted to intrude : 

Up to the topmost branches climbs the rose, 

And mingles with the fiiding flowers of May ; 



BORTHWICK. 175 

While round the brier the honeytuokle wreaths 

Entwine, and with their sweet perfume embalm 

The dying rose ; a nerer failing blow 

From spring to fal1« expands ; the sloethom white. 

As if a flaky shower the leafless sprays 

Had hung ; the hawthorn. May's fair diadem ; 

The whin*8 rich dye ; the bonny broom ; the rasp 

Erect; the rose, red, white, and fiiintest pink ; 

And long-extending bramble's flowery shoots. 

<* The bank ascend — an open height appears, 
Between the double streams that wind below ; 
Look round, behold a prospect wide and &ir ;— 
The Lomond hills, wi^ Fife's town skirted shore, 
The intervening sea, Inchkeitb's grey rocks. 
With beacon -turret crowned : Arthur's proud crest. 
And Salisbury abrupt : the Penttand range 
Now peaked, and now, with undulating swell 
Heaved to the clouds : More near, upon each hand. 
The sloping woods, bulging into the glades- 
Receding then with easy artless curve— 
Behind, a grove of ancient trees, surrounds 
The ruins of a blood -cemented house 
Half prostrate laid," &c. — Birds of Scotland. 

This property, originally, was but of small extent — not exceeding^ 
as I have been informed, 400 Scots acres. The first baron of Amis- 
ton was Sir James Dundas, who was knighted by James V., some 
time between the years 1530 and 1540. Most of the old trees in 
the neighbourhood of the mansion-house are believed to have been 
planted about that time. Ccuttieton was the first accession to the pro- 
perty ; — the last family that possessed it bore the name of Bryson. 
Halkerston and Esperston were a later purchase from a family of the 
name of Liddle, some of whose descendants are still in this neigh- 
bourhood. They had a peel or place of strength at Halkerston in 
the field where the hinds' houses now stand. No vestige of it remains. 
The baronies of Shank and Htmghhead were purchased about 
the year 1756. The house of Shank is said to have been built by 
the Duke of Argyle or Earl of Bute. It was successively inha- 
bited by families of rank and importance. It must have been for 
a considerable time in the possession of the Scots of Scotstarvet, 
as they had an aisle in the old church of Borthwick adjoining to 
that of the Arniston family. Afterwards Sir George Mackenzie, 
the celebrated King's Advocate, occupied the house. It was next 
tenanted by a fiunily of the name of Grant, who seem from the 
following traditional story to have been of Highland descent, and 
to have been aware of the dignity which belonged to that cele- 
brated clan. It seems that two brothers of the name of Whyte, 
ancestors of the present venerable tenant of the .farm of Yorston, 
but at that time residing at the farm of Carrington Barns, when 



1 76 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

walking one day about the Shank braes, bargained with each other 
that one of them was to kiss the first woman they met She hap- 
pened to be a young lady of the family of Grant, then residing in 
the neighbouring mansion-house. The adventurous youth who 
had undertaken the wager immediately walked up to her and 
accomplished his purpose — upon which the lady, whether in wrath 
or in good humour is not stated, informed him, that it was well for 
him, that the scene had not been enacted in her country — the 
Highlands'—otherwise he would have paid with his head the for- 
feit of his audacity* Lord Elcho resided in the same house about 
the year 1745— and when the property of Shank was purchased 
by the Amiston family the mansion-house was inhabited by a 
Lieutenant Carnegie. The original march of the Shank property 
was within a few hundred yards of the front of Amiston House. 
The very aged oak tree which all visitors must have observed in front 
of the lawn — and which is believed to be the oldest tree on the 
estate — marks the boundary of the two original properties. About 
the year 1754 a small portion of the Harviestan property was pur- 
chased by the family of Arniston from a person of the name of 
Campbell. 

Middleton House stands at the higher part of the parish, and is 
the most elevated in its situation of any of the seats of the pro- 
prietors. It is of inferior dimensions to the house of Amiston^ 
though of the same general style of architecture, only suited to the 
smaller extent of the property to which it is attached. From an 
inscription above the principal entrance it appears to have been 
built in the year 1710. — It is surrounded by an extensive wood of 
tall beech trees — and has a general air of quiet and genteel seclu- 
sion. Being in the immediate neighbourhood of Middleton moor 
and of the Lammermuir hills, it is considered to be a healthy situa- 
tion — and is much valued for the advantages which it offers to per<P» 
sons who are fond of rural sports. Its extensive woods— its neigh- 
bourhood to the old and quiet-looking village of Middleton— and 
its proximity to the green hills which border the moor on the 
south, give it altogether an aspect which most persons regard with 
pleasure. The garden is kept in a very superior style, though the 
roots of the trees seem soon to find an unhealthy subsoil, which 
renders it expedient to keep their branches as low as possible. The 
ornamented grounds in the vicinity are the admiration of all visi- 
tors. The proprietors have repeatedly attempted to enhance the 
beauty of this locality by forming a pond in the centre of the or- 



BOllTHWICK. 177 

namented grounds — but the site being in the course of the stream 
ivhich passes behind the mansion house, has been found insufficient 
to resist the mass of water which occasionally pours from the 
streamlets of the moorland — and which has repeatedly borne all 
before it — and descended through the neighbouring valley^ not 
without risk of considerable damage and danger to the inhabitants. 
It is not likely that the attempt to construct a pond will be repeat- 
ed) nor is it desirable, though a great additional beauty to the 
grounds has thus been rendered impossible to be realized'. 

Currie House formerly stood on a piece of rising ground over- 
looking the old church and valley of Borthwick— and having an ex- 
tensive view of the distant landscape and of the Pentland hills. It 
was surrounded by some old and valuable trees, and had an avenue 
leading to the garden, which lies on the haugh adjoining the stream 
which flows through the valley. The house was taken down about 
thirty years since — and a great part of the old wood was cut about 
the same time. The proprietor then took up his residence in what 
was originally a much smaller hou&e upon his property, and which 
is said to have been, in former times, an inn for the accommoda- 
tion of persons, who, in travelling to the south, thought proper to 
halt for a short time to view the ruins of the castle, and the beau- 
ties of the adjoining valley. The house was improved by some ex- 
cellent additions, and when seen from the high road or from any of 
the neighbouring points, embosomed as it seems to be amidst its 
sheltering woods, and reposing in the shadow of the ancient castle, 
it has a pleasing aspect of rural retreat and comfort. A consider- 
able quantity of young wood has been planted — and the garden, 
which is of excellent soil, and beautifully situated, may be expect- 
ed eventually to become one of the chief ornaments of the vicinity. 

But the most attractive spot belonging to this property is un- 
questionably the precipitous and richly wooded piece of scenery 
known by the name of Currie wood. It is not generally known even 
to persons who have visited the neighbourhood for the purpose of 
becoming acquainted with its beauties, and who commonly see but 
the termination of this wood as it opens upon the level ground which 
lies in the immediate vicinity of the castle. It is, however, well worth 
a visit from persons of taste — and has seldom been so visited with- 
out drawing forth expressions of wonder that a piece of scenery so 
like some of the best of the Highland passes, though on a smaller 
scale, should not be more generally known. A path has been formed 
ascending upwards through the wood — and gradually rising to stiU 

EDINBURGH. M 



178 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

wider and more beautiful prospects, till at the upper extremity the 
whole scene bursts upon the eye with a grandeur and effect which 
might be transferred to the canvass of the most accomplished ar- 
tist, without alteration, or addition to its parts. In the fore-ground 
are the deep woods with the stream winding far beneath at the 
outlet of the valley appears the venerable castle as if guarding the 
entrance into the enchanted scene — farther in the distance is seen 
the wide expanse of cultivated landscape that lies between the ob- 
server and the Pentland hills ; — and lastly, those lovely hills them- 
selves with their elegant outline, and ever-varying tints, complete a 
portion of Nature's scenery which she seems to have placed so as to 
elude the gaze of more careless observers — but which is not on that 
account the less dear to those who have been accustomed, whlMMt 
fear of intrusion, to dwell with delight on its secluded beauties. 

In pursuing his way through this wood, the observer will be espe- 
cially struck with the many magnificent roots of old oak trees, which 
DOW rise, often deeply covered with moss, from most of the pro- 
jecting eminences and vantage grounds of the locality. They are 
evidently the remains of trees which flourished many centuries ago 
—which may have waved in the time of Bruce, — and beside which 
the steel-clad and grey- haired follower of Wallace may have rested 
his spear. Nothing can be more striking than the grotesque and 
varied forms into which these " old fantastic roots have wreathed" 
themselves — and in one instance a huge mass of stone is actually 
held suspended by one of them in the air, as if it intended by this 
phenomenon to intimate, with what living energy it once embraced 
the solid rock beneath — ^and what strength still remains to it even 
amidst the decrepitude of age, as a remnant of the surpassing and 
gigantic might of its years of youthful or of matured vigour. 

Vogrie House is the seat of a proprietor whose possessions ex- 
tend over the whole of the eastern and a great part of the middle 
portion of the parish. The house is of a kind, which is frequently 
met with in situations where external ornament did not seem to 
form any very desirable part of the building. It is narrow — long 
•—high walled— evidently built with no view to a very extended 
duration, and with no pretensions to architectural embellishment.' 
The late proprietor, however, had it in contemplation to build a 
house in a much more elegant and modern style — and the stables 
which were the first part of the proposed plan that was completed, 
afford a specimen of the taste and splendour with which the entire 
design would havebeen executed. Although this plan, however, faajB^ 

3 



BORTHWICK. 179 

from unavoidable circumstances, been left unfinished, much has re- 
cently been done for improving and beautifying the estate by ex- 
tensive plantations, and by the formation of superb and judiciously 
arranged shrubberies. The glens in the neighbourhood of the house 
have always been objects of admiration to visitors — many fine trees 
spring from the bottom of the valleys with picturesque and com- 
manding effect — and the garden is in the most improved style 
of such luxuries. Eventual I v^ there is reason to believe, that 
Vogrie will be a highly cultivated portion of the general landscape 
— and will do honour to the taste and judgment of those who have 
lately devoted themselves to the improvement of it. 

Harvieston House seems to have been originally of the same 
general style of building with Vogrie, though on a smaller scale, 
suited to the limited possessions of the proprietor of whom it is 
the seat. Some additions, however, have been made to it, which 
have somewhat improved its originally tame and unornamented as- 
pect — and the adjoining lawn and shrubbery grounds are not un- 
tastefully sprinkled with trees — some of which are of considerable 
size and value. The ground is naturally swampy, but every thing 
was done by the late proprietor to give to the place all the advantages 
of which it is susceptible. He used to say, that when he first got 
his property, a great part of it was in such a state that he could 
not walk over it ; and that he had ultimately expended as much 
money in bringing it into its present state, as would have enabled 
him to cover it with bank notes. The bowling green, with its 
adjacent shrubbery, has an air of much neatness, and of tasteful 
arrangement 

III. — Population. 

Id 1755, the population of the parish was 910 

In 1801, 842 

In 1821. 1345 

In 1831, ..... 1470 

There has been a gradual increase in the numbers tilt the pre- 
sent year, the increase seeming to depend entirely upon the im- 
proving state of the country, which renders more hands necessary 
for carrying on the labours of the field, and for supplying the ac- 
cessory wants of those who are so employed. 

The tenantry are almost all of them men of superior character 
and information ; and few districts, it is believed, could produce a 
better specimen of Scottish yeomanry. 

Although this parish is in the heart of a coal district, and though 
there are villages all round us peopled by colliers, it is but of late 



180 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

that any families of that class have had houses in this parish. At pre* 
sent there are not more than six or eight such families. The po- 
pulation, therefore, may be considered as almost entirely occupied 
in agriculture, and in such branches of commerce or of trade as 
are necessary in all communities. 

The men who work at the powder manufactory must also, how- 
ever, be taken into account. They are, in general, of a very re- 
spectable character. 





Males. 


Females. 


In 1821, the numbers below 15 yean of age were 


278 


289 


from 15 to 30, 


156 


179 


30 to 50, 


114 


146 


50 to 70, 


83 


96 


70 to 90, 


12 


22 



Total, 643 702 

The yearly average of births at that time was about 30 

deaths, .... 20 
marriages, . .11 

At present the arerage of births is alwut . . 35 

deaths, » ... 25 
marriages, ... 16 

The number of illegitimate births in the parish within the last 
three years, is 16. 

The number of fiimilies employed in agriculture is about 186 

trade, * •* 60 
other fiunilies, • . 51 

Families in aU, 297 

Average number in each &mily, 4) 

The population having been encreased by 100 since the census 
was taken in 1821, some allowance must be made in the relative 
proportions of births, deaths, and marriages, as adapted to the 
present numbers. I have not had an opportunity of ascertaining 
these numbers more precisely. 

The situation of the parish is reckoned favourable to healthy 
and some instances of persons attaining to a very advanced age are 
occasionally occurring. 

Less rain is said to fall in this neighbourhood than in the ad* 
joining districts,~-the clouds being detained or carried off by the 
Lammermuir hills on the south, and by the Pentland hills on the 
north-west. Yet the people who live along the open country be- 
tween us and the Pentland range, commonly look to the appear- 
ance of the atmosphere over our valley for signs of the weather 
—and the ordinary command given to those who are sent out to 
obtain such information is, ^' Go see how the bok of Borthwick 
looks.'' This, however, arises not from our climate being more sub- 



BORTHWICK. 181 

ject to rain than that of the level country — but from the peculiar 
configuration of our glen — which apparently stretches considerably 
backwards among the lower hills, as seen from a distance— and over 
which, consequently, the atmosphere is better distinguished in its 
varied shades, according as it is fitted to indicate clear and set- 
tled, or showery and troubled weather. We, again, look to the tints 
of the Pentland hills — or to the aspect of the clouds which settle 
on them, as our symptoms of weather. 

Diseases in general are not more virulent with us than in any 
other portion of the country. Most of the diseases which have of 
late years been so fatal in some other districts have passed over us 
but slightly — ^such as cholera— typhus and scarlet fever. The 
small-pox is at this moment raging in one of our villages— but 
though the vesicles are very numerous, I have not yet heard of any 
mortal cases. 

IV. — Industry. 

Jffriculture.-'^A general spirit of improvement is apparent on al- 
most every farm of this parish. The land is let chiefly on leases 
of nineteen years endurance. The course of tillage most success- 
fully followed on the arable lands is what is called the five-course 
shift — two-fifths of the farm being in grass, two-fifths in corn, and 
one-fifth in fallow or drilled turnips and potatoes. The usual crops 
are wheat, oats, barley, turnip, potatoes, and hay. The manures 
usually applied are lime and farm-yard dung. Within these few 
years, however, bone-dust has been used with success. The ex- 
tent of land in the farms under regular tillage varies from 90 to 
about 300 acres. Some of the largest farms in the upper part of 
the parish, containing each from 200 to 300 acres of tillage land, 
have fully an equal quantity of moorland attached to them, which 
is only partially and occasionally brought under the plough. The 
rent of the land in tillage varies from 15s. to L. 2 per acre. Some 
rich old grass fields let annually for pasture at nearly L. 3 per 
acre. • 

Live-Stocky Sfc, — The short-homed kind of cattle are those 
usually bred in the parish. The sheep bred and fed in the parish 
are generally of the Cheviot and black-faced breed. A cross be- 
twixt the Leicester and Cheviot has been introduced with success 
—and that stock is now to be found on every farm of suitable ex- 
tent The local advantage of lime-kilns in the parish is duly ap^ 
preciated by the tenantry. A large extent of waste land has with- 
in these few years been reclaimed and strongly limed, and again 



]82 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

laid down in pasture for rearing Iambs of the improved breed, and 
feeding of stock generally. This change of system has produced 
a corresponding increase of turnip husbandry. The prices of 
cattle, grain, hay, and all kinds of farm produce are regulated 
by the Edinburgh and Dalkeith markets. — The greater part of 
the arable land is enclosed with thorn hedges. 

fVoffes. — Married ploughmen, or hinds, as they are called, are 
usually hired by the year ; and the wages are, for an able man, 
L. 8 in money, 6^ bolls of oatmeal, 2 bolls of grain, commonly 
barley and pease in equal quantities, a cow's keep, 1000 lineal 
yards of potatoes planted in the field, carriage of fuel, and a house 
and garden. By way of rent for the house, some person, provided 
by the hind, shears to the master for twenty days, or during the 
harvest ; the master furnishing victuals only, but paying no wages. 
The hind also furnishes a person to carry the corn from the stack* 
yard to the barn to be thrashed. 

The wages of ordinary labourers are from 9s. to 10s. per week; 
but able labourers, accustomed to work in quarries, drains, and the 
like, receive from 12s. to 14s. per week. 

It is now very much the practice to execute by contract all kind& 
of work that will admit of being properly carried on in that way. 

The bye-roads in the parish are in a very imperfect state ; the 
amount of the legal assessment for statute labour being very in«- 
adequate to keep them in repair. 

Qtiarries and jMin^^.— Freestone is abundant, and one quarry is 
wrought for sale. Limestone also abounds, and lime-burning ia 
extensively carried on.. Part of the lime is sent to Edinburgh for 
building; but the principal part of it is applied to agricultural pur* 
poses in the neighbouring districts. The lime usually sells at the 
rate of Is. 9d. per boll of the old barley measure. 

Minerals. — Coal, on the property of James Dewar, Esq. of 
Vogrie, is extensively wrought. The principal seams are from 
three to four feet in thickness. The Vogrie coal is reckoned of 
superior quality, and sells at a higher price than most of the coal 
wrought in the neighbourhood. The great coal sells at from 8s. 
to 10s. per ton. The smaller coal or chews, much used as fuel by 
the labouring classes, sell at from 5s. to 6s. per ton. Very little of 
the coal goes to Edinburgh ; the chief consumpt of it is in the 
south country, towards Galashiels, Selkirk, and Peebles.* 

* The preceding account of the Industry and Agriculture of the parish was fur- 
niiihed chiefly by the late Alexander Inncs, land steward to James Dewar, Esq. of 
Vogrie. It has also been revised and enlarged by an intelligent tenant in the neigh* 
bourfaood. 



BORTHWICK. 183 

v.— Parochial Economy. 
Villages. — There are six villages of considerable size in the pa- 
rish, with many groups of scattered cottages over the whole of the 
district More than one-half of the population are collected in 
the villages — the rest being distributed either among the groups 
of cottages— or living as hinds upon the different farms. 

Ford is portioned out between three adjoining parishes, which 
meet at the bridge in the centre of the village. It was once a beau- 
tiful and thriving place, quietly embosomed in its own little valley— 
but has lately fallen much into decay ; — that part of it which be- 
longs to the parish of Borthwick contains five families — and the 
number of the inmates is about 20. 

Dewarton is one of the most considerable — and certainly the 
neatest looking village in the parish. It consists chiefly of feus 
on the estate of Vogrie. The houses are ranged in one line 
along the road — the opposite side being occupied by a small plan- 
tation, along which a copious stream of. pure water flows at all 
times, supplying the inhabitants with the means of cleanliness and 
comfort, and adding much to the pleasant and healthful appear- 
ance of the place. When the present incumbent first knew it, it 
was chiefly tenanted by aged people — but of late years it has been 
occupied by persons in the prime of life, who have numerous fa-' 
milies ; — and there is now no part of the parish where a greater 
number of children may be observed, enjoying the sports of the 
evening, and giving an animated air to the village. Their edu- 
cation, however, it is to be regretted, is not in all instances so well 
attended to, as might be expected. The number of inhabitants 
is about 150. 

Newlandrigg is a much older village than Dewarton, but it lies 
much out of the common thoroughfare, and has little connected 
with it to awaken a spirit of animation or of enterprise. Several 
of the houses are at present untenanted, and some are falling into 
entire decay. A considerable number of old people take up their 
residence in it. The entire number of the population is about 100. 
Clay Houses derives its name from an ancient inn of the same 
denomination, which stood by the way side, when the road to 
Gala Water and the south passed in this line. A part of the old 
Clay House still remains, though considerably altered by addi- 
tions — and several other more recent cottages have been erected 
in the neighbourhood. The number of inhabitants is about 40. 
Stohbs Milk is a village of recent date, having been built al- 



184 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

most entirely with a view to the accommodation of the workmen 
employed in the neighbouring powder manufactory. The people, 
though employed in a hazardous occupation, are far from being 
reckless or unprincipled in their habits. On the contrary, the au- 
thor has always found them to be among the most regular and 
exemplary of his parishioners — and they are at present superin- 
tended by a master who makes their religious and moral improve- 
ment an object of his conscientious attention. The number of in- 
habitants is about 70. 

Castleton is a quiet village in the western extremity of the pa- 
rish. It is tenanted by about eight families, who are chiefly em- 
ployed in agriculture. They live in great harmony with each other, 
— and are, indeed, free from most of the ordinary causes of dis- 
sension or of vicious indulgence. 

Middletan was formerly a place of some importance, and, in- 
deed, the chief village of the parish. The great road to the south 
formerly passed through it — and it was one of the chief seats of 
the tinkers or gypsies. The new road, however, has taken a dif- 
ferent line — the tinkers have resigned their former occupations, 
and have become mixed up with the native inhabitants — and this 
once stirring and adventurous village is now a place of great quiet, 
and chiefly remarkable for the retired and unobtrusive character 
of those who inhabit it There are two farm-houses connected 
with it, in the employment of which several of the inhabitants are 
engaged, — ^the rest of the population being either old people, or 
persons occupied in such trades as are necessary for the accom- 
modation of any similar collection of houses. The general appear- 
ance of the village is by no means unpleasing. The number of 
the inhabitants is about 120. 

Besides these more considerable villages, there are, we have said, 
several groups of cottages in difierent parts of the parish, which 
can scarcely aspire to the dignity of villages, though they add much 
to the general efiect of the landscape. The inhabitants are chief- 
ly occupied in such miscellaneous employments as are demanded 
by the wants or conveniences of the surrounding country. The 
most remarkable of these are, — The Brewery^ which takes its 
name from a building formerly used in the brewing of ale, but of 
which only one high and very hard wall now remains. — BelPs 
Mainsy a collection of moss-covered cottages, which stand near the 
highway, and at that particular part where the old avenue to the 
grounds of Arniston formerly opened. — Fushie Bridge^ well known 



BORTHWICK. ' 185 

to all travellers towards the southern districts. — Caicune Mill, still 
a place of active business, though several of the old cottages are 
how in a state of dilapidation.— ^or^A Middleton, a line of cottages 
by the way side, which have chiefly been built within the last 
twelve years — and Borthwick itself, which has fewer cottages now 
than in former days — ^and but two or three scattered groups, which 
form, however, no unpleasing contrast to the more imposing struc- 
tures in their vicinity. These cottages are clustered round the 
very base of the castle — and with their mossy roofs — and simple 
structure-*and small garden plots, serve rather to complete than 
to encumber the picture which the whole scene presents to the 
eye of taste and of sensibility. 

Farms. — There are in all twenty-seven farms in the parish, of 
which the chief are the following : — Belonging to Amiston, six, 
viz. Halkerston and Haugh head, Arniston Mains, Shank Mains, 
Castleton, and Stobbs Mills. Belonging to Middleton, or former- 
ly connected with it, Middleton Upper, Middleton Lower and 
Torcraik, Lime-kilns, and formerly Hayfield. Belonging to Cur- 
rie, Currie Mains, Halfla Kill, Old Currie, and formerly Wright's 
Houses. Belonging to Vogrie, Ford, Woodhead, Vogrie Mains, 
Mount Skip, New House, Loquharriot, Borthwick Mains, Cat- 
cune. Hag Brae, Stobbs, and Fushie. Belonging to Crookstone, 
Borthwick farm and C!owbrae Hill. To most of these are at- 
tached the ordinary complement of hinds' houses and other cot- 
tages. 

Gypsies or Tinkers. — We have already said that these do not 
now exist as a separate tribe in Middleton, but are much inter- 
mingled by marriage with the common people of this and the 
neighbouring parishes. In some instances they have accomplish- 
ed matches of a yet higher kind. Their prevailing names are 
Baillie, Tait, and Wilson. They are, in general, less under the 
influence of religious impressions than the native population, 
but are eagerly devoted to business, and retain, even. in their 
mixed state, something of the adventurous and active spirit of their 
original condition. Their manners, when they are not excited, are 
courteous and plausible, — but they are terrible in their resentment^ 
and subject to strong paroxysms of nervous feeling. They are clan- 
nish, though not proud, so far as I have observed, of their original 
descent. In occasional instances, the dark complexion, and well- 
formed features, and sparkling eye of the purer race may be dis- 
covered—but, in general, their colour is rather cadaverous, or of a 
darkish pale — their cheek-bones high — their eyes small and light- 



186 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

coloured— their hair of a dingy white or red colour, and wiry ; and 
their skin drier and of a tougher texture than that of the people of 
this country. 

Their wandering tribes still frequent the bye-paths and wood** 
sides of this district ; they are then distinguished by the epithet 
of Campers — ^and during the summer months there are few of the 
more retired lanes or hedge-sides where their tents may not be 
seen erected — their travelling-cart resting on its beams — ^their fire 
kindled and meat cooking — their asses feeding by the wayside — 
their children sprawling half-naked — the men busied in forming 
osier work or tin vessels — and the women hawking them among the 
neighbouring villages or cot-houses. So far us I have seen or ex- 
perienced, they are a harmless, though sadly uneducated race ; 
nor do I think that it is possible to reclaim them, except by inter- 
marriage with the rest of the community. In proof of their former 
lawless habits, it may be mentioned, that when, about half a cen- 
tury ago, it was proposed to erect a grave-stone in the church-yard 
of Berth wick for one of them, and this was objected to by the na- 
tives, as a thing quite unusual in the case of tinkers, the objection 
was set aside by a sagacious heritor, who observed that in his 
opinion, the man deserved such an honour, as being perhaps the 
first of his race who ever came to so respectable an end. 

Ecclesiastical State. — ^What now constitutes this parish belong- 
ed formerly to the collegiate kirk of Crichton. In April 1596, 
King James I. of England, dissolved from the said collegiate kirk 
the prebendaries of Ardnalestone, (now Arniston,) of Middleton 
first and second, and of Vogrie, of old called Loquharriot, with 
two boys or clerks to assist in the performance of divine service^ 
with suitable salaries annexed to their office. These prebendaries, 
with the haiU vicarage of Borthwick, fruits, rents, manse, and glebe 
thereof, were then, by a royal charter, erected into a [distinct 
and separate charge, in all time coming, to be called the parson- 
age of Borthwick. This deed was afterwards, in 1606, solemn- 
ly ratified to parliament, and in 1609, confirmed by the Archbishop 
of St Andrews, as the undoubted patron of said prebendaries. 

The old church, which, from the style of its architecture, seems 
to have been coeval with the castle, having been burnt in 1775, 
the present place of worship was finished in 1778. It is a sub- 
stantial and commodious building, and was originally designed 
to contain 500 sitters, but from some subsequent arrangement of 
the seats, it does- not at present contain so many. The number 
of communicants at present is 400. 



BORTHWICK. 187 

The inanse» being partly very old, is not in all respects so con- 
venient as most of the houses which have recently been erected 
or repaired for the use of parish ministers, — ^but it is a venerable 
mansion, — and at no very distant period must be replaced by one 
more suited to the taste of the present times. 

The glebe consists of rather more than 12 acres, some of 
which are of excellent soil and arable, — the rest marshy and for- 
merly deemed incapable of improvement ; but during the incum- 
bency of the present minister, the whole of this part has been drain- 
ed, and, with the exception of one small spot, made to carry excel- 
lent crops. It is rented at L. 28 per annum. The garden is large, 
and has a good variety of soil ; it produces most abundant crops 
both of the larger and smaller fruits, and has indeed few rivals in 
so £ar as the size and quality of its gooseberies and currants are con- 
cerned. Apples, pears, and plums, also thrive well in it, and most 
of the common flowers ornament its borders. 

The stipend, besides the manse and other usual appendages, con- 
sists of 124 bolls, with some additional 6 riots, pecks, and lippies 
of grain-^the one-half being barley, and the other oatmeal, and 
L. 78 of money. 

The present incumbent is the nineteenth minister who has had 
the pastoral superintendence of the parish of Borthwick since the 
Reformation. The following is a list of his predecessors in office 
— with the years of their induction and removal :— Mr Thomas 
Cranston, 1567-1569 ; Mr John Colthen, 1586 ; Mr James 
Hunter, 1593; Mr Adam Scott, 1595-1596; Mr John Murray, 
1596-1603; Mr Patrick Turner, 1604r-1629; Mr James Por- 
teous, 1629-1651 ; Mr Archibald Turner, 164S-1649; Mr John 
Weir, 1652-1657; Mr Thomas Paterson, 1657-1683; Mr Tho- 
mas Paterson, 1683-1689; Mr John Campbell, 1689-1690; 
Mr William Trail, 1690-1714; Mr William Robertson, 1714- 
1733; Mr Thomas Turnbull, 1734-1786; Mr James Finlayson, 
1787-1790 ; Mr John Clunie, 1791-1819; Mr Robert Smith, 
1814-1818; Mr Thomas Wright, 18ia* 

Of 300 families, vrhich is about the number in the parish, 60 
may be reckoned as belonging to the Secession — and 240 to the 
Established Church. But Dissenting meeting-houses commonly 
are so situated as to draw their attendants from several parishes^ 
There is one meeting-house of Dissenters in the eastern extremity 

• For the above list, the author is indebted to the Rev. I lew Scott, Minister of 
Anstruther, whose researches in this line are known to haye been couductcd with 
great perseverance and success. 



188 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of the parish — but it can scarcely be considered from its situation 
as having any effect in withdrawing the people of this parish from 
the Established Church. There is another Dissenting meeting- 
house in the village of Gore Bridge belonging to the parish of 
Temple, to which most of the Dissenters in the parish are attach* 
ed. But there has all along been a conciliatory spirit on the part 
of Churchmen and Dissenters, in this part of the country, to each 
other — and the Established clergyman has always had as free an 
access into the houses of the Dissenters as into those of his own 
communion. It is greatly to be desired that this kindly and truly 
Christian spirit may long be maintained. 

The people connected with the Established Church are in ge- 
neral regular attendants on divine worship, and most exemplary in 
their demeanour, both during divine service, and whenever, in 
their own houses, any of the offices of religion are performed. 

Education, — Besides the parochial school there are at present 
two other private schools, both of which, however, are at present 
but poorly attended. The average numbers in the parochial school 
are about 80. The parochial teacher has the maximum salary of 
L. 34, 4s. 4id. He has the l^al accommodations in other respects 
— and draws the usual fees as session-clerk, heritors clerk, &c. 
There is a small mortification of L. 3, 17s. for the benefit of the 
teacher of the private school in Newlandrigg. This sum was mor- 
tified by a person of the name of Sir James M^Lurg. 

The branches taught at all the schools are the usual elementary 
branches — viz. reading, writing, arithmetic, &c 

The present minister has been in the habit for many years of vi- 
siting all the schools once every month. He then prepares the 
scholars for undergoing an examination on the first Sabbath of 
every month in the parish church — and on the Monday after the 
dispensation of the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper, an account is 
taken of all that has been done during the preceding months of the 
year — ^and prizes are distributed. This plan has had excellent 
effects, both in increasing the religious information of the scholars, 
and in promoting their attention to their daily and more secular 
studies. The teachers have all co-operated zealously with the 
minister in the prosecution of this plan, and it has been universally 
acceptable to the parents and friends of the young. 

Literature* — There is a library in the neighbouring village of 
Gore Bridge, which has a good and extensive assortment of books ; 
and has been productive of many good effects. It owes its origin to 



BORTHWICK. 189 

the late James Mill surgeon — who foresaw the good it was likely 
to do, and zealously set himself to give a beginning to the scheme. 

Savings Bank. — A bank of this kind was instituted in this pa* 
rish in May 1815. Most of the leading proprietors and tenants 
became managers — and the institution having thus from the first 
obtained the entire confidence of the parishioners, has continued to 
thrive, while most of the other banks of the same kind, which were 
set agoing about the same time, in neighbouring parishes, have 
ceased to exist The circumstance which has chiefly contributed 
to the success of our institution has been the perfect confidence re- 
posed by the contributors, in the kindness and good faith and pru- 
dent conduct of all the persons entrusted with the management 
The depositors are chiefly young men and women. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of applications for pa- 
rochial relief has been on the increase for a considerable number 
of years. The number at present on the regular roll is 25. These 
persons receive at an average 5s. 6d. monthly — ^and this is defray- 
ed by the collections at the church door, by the money paid for the 
use of a mortcloth — and bv an assessment on the heritors and te- 
nants. The collections average about Ids. 6d. each Sabbath, or 
L.35, lOs. annually. The mortcloth money is about L.5, lOs. per 
annum — and the assessment on the heritors and tenants amounts 
at present to about L. 60 per annum. 

The unwillingness to come upon the parish is not perhaps so 
great as it once was; but in general the people do not seem to ask 
relief till it is absolutely necessary — so that the heritors and session 
have seldom occasion to refuse the applications that are made. 

Indeed, the fault is scarcely in any instance on the part of the 
aged applicants, who are always unwilling to be placed on the poor's 
roll. It lies with the younger generation, who are less disinclined 
than formerly, to have it said that their parents are obtaining pa- 
rochial relief — and who leave them to that aid, that they may 
themselves enter into the married state. 

Inns, — There are but 9 alehouses in the parish, but as the great 
south road passes through the centre of it, a great proportion of 
them are upon it, — and hence, a passing observer might be disposed 
to conclude that we are more than ordinarily provided with accom- 
modations of this sort, although, in fact, when the entire extent of 
the parish is considereo, our number is below the average allowed 
in other places. The most remarkable inns on the great road are, 
Arniston Inn, Fushie Bridge, Currie Inn, and Middleton Inn. All 



190 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

• 

the inns are well kept, and have had no perceptible bad effects upon 
the morals of the people. As several of these inns are much fre- 
quentedy there is, of course, collected in their neighbourhood, a 
considerable number of persons necessary for the operations re- 
quired in them. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Although the parish generally is in an improving state, yet it 

is notorious that most of the properties in the parish are very 
heavily burdened, and that thus the exertions of the proprietors for 
the improvement of their estates — and for the bettering of the con- 
dition of their tenantry, are very much impeded. 

The orderly and kind disposition of the people merits high com- 
mendation. No great vices are practised among them ; they are 
most observant of the offices of religion ; live in good agreement 
with each other, notwithstanding any differences of religious pro- 
fession ; and seem anxious to obey, even on a hint, the wishes of 
their superiors, both civil and ecclesiastical. Their respectful and 
decent appearance, during the public solemnities of religion, has 
gained the admiration of all strangers — and their minister would be 
ungrateful not to acknowledge, that they seem, on every occasion, 
to have almost anticipated his wishes. 

Still the tendency to change, which is at present abroad over the 
world, may be descried by a close observer of events, even within 
the hitherto quiet precincts of our retired and romantic valley; and 
I have no doubt, that, when a few more years have elapsed, much 
that has characterized both the customs and the spirit of the people 
will have been succeeded by other habits— and by new tenden- 
cies of thought. But whether the change shall be for good or for 
evil, is a question to which opposite answers will assuredly be given 
— and which no living man, perhaps, is able to answer satis&c- 
torily. 

October 1839. 



PARISH OF CRANSTON. 

PR£8BYT£RY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. ALEXANDER WELSH, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
^am€.— The name of the parish of Cranston or Cranstoun, in 

the charters of the twelfth century, was written Cranestone^ the 
As^o-^SaxoD, CraenstoTiy signifying the crane's district, or resort. 
The river Tyne, where it intersects CranstoBy is even now frequent- 
ed by cranes, that find shelter in the woods, and fish in the water. 
In the twelfth century, Cranston was divided into two manors, 
Upper Cranston and Nether Cranston, which were afterwards distin- 
guished as New Cranston and Cranston Ridel. The church stood 
at Nether Cranston, which was the larger of the two manors. This 
district was granted by Earl Henry to Hugh Ridel. From him it 
obtained the name of Cranston Ridel, which distinguished it till 
recent times. Hugh Ridel granted to the monks of Kelso, the 
church of Cranston, with its tithes and other pertinents, for the soul 
of David L, and for that of Earl Henry, his lord ; and it continu- 
ed with them till 1317. During that long period, they enjoyed 
the revenues of the rectory, while the vicar served the cure and re- 
ceived the vicarage tithes. Adam de Malsarveston was vicar 
of Cranston during the reign of William the Lyon. In 1296, 
Hugh, the vidkr of Cranston, swore fealty to Edward I. The church 
of Cranston was early of great value ; and in the ancient taxatio, 
it was valued at 60 merks. The barony of Cranston Ridel con- 
tinued with the Ridels till the reign of David IL, when it passed, 
successively, by various transmissions, through the Murrays to the 
Macgills, who acquired the church of Cranston. Sir James Mac- 
gill, in 1651, was created Viscount Oxenford and Lord Macgill 
of Cousland. He dying in 1663, left the whole estates and pa- 
tronage to his son Robert, who died without, male issue in 1706. 
By another series of heirs, these estates and the patronage came to 
Lady Dalrymple Hamilton Macgill, spouse of the late, and' mother 
of the present Sir John Hamilton Dalrymple, Bart. There was 



1 



192 EDINBURGHSHIRE. ^ 

of old a chapel at Cranston, which served the lord and tenants of 
the manor. The monks probably retained this chapel till the 
Reformation dissolved such connexions. The manor and chapel- 
ry of Cousland were annexed to or merged in the parish of Cran- 
ston at the Reformation. The chapel stood on the south side of 
the village of Cousland, where its remains may still be traced, 
with its almost forgotten cemetery. It was probably dedicated to 
St Bartholomew, as some lands near it retain the name of Bar- 
tholomew's Firlot. 

Extent, 4i'c. — The parish of Cranston" extends about 5 miles in 
length, and 3 in breadth. It is bounded by the parishes of Inver- 
esk and Ormiston on the east ; by Crichton and Borthwick on the 
south ; and by Newbattle on the west and north. It contains 4778 
acres, and is somewhat in the form of an hour-glass, being very 
narrow in the middle. 

Topographical Appearances, Sfc, — There are neither mountains 
nor hills, but the face of the parish is unequal ; and the gentle swell- 
ings of the ground, the picturesque valley of the Tyne, the noble 
seats on its banks, with the intermixture of enclosures and planta- 
tions, render it very beautiful. The prospects from the higher 
grounds are rich and extensive. The climate is mild and salu- 
brious, llie river Tyne runs through the parish from south to 
north, and though here but a small rivulet, it widens in its pro- 
gress before it fal)s into the Forth at Tyningham near Dunbar. 

Quarries of freestone or sandstone and limestone, and several 
coal-pits, belonging to Sir John H. Dalrymple, and William Burn 
Callander, Esq. are wrought in various places, and make a good 
return. Coals are sold at lOd. per load, lime at Is. lOd. per 
bolL Many petrifactions have been found, and even some live 
toads are said to have been found imbedded in the solid lime- 
stone rocL A great many boulders were dug out of the new line 
of road between Pathhead and Fordel. The direction and dip of 
the strata and beds of coal are in some places from north to south, 
in others from east to west ; the depth of the pits is from 14 to 25 fa- 
thoms ; the thickness of the seams is from 16 inches to 4 feet. The 
soil consists partly of clay, and partly of light land. The whole is 
arable, fertile, and well adapted for producing all kinds of grain. 
There are some very large trees in the grounds of Oxenford Castle 
and Prestonhall. At Cakemoor there is a plane tree 26^ feet round 
at the base. The soil appears to be most congenial to larch, beecb^ 
and elm. 

4 



CRANSTON. 193 

11. — Civil History. 

Land'owners. — The chief land-owner is General Sir John H. 
Dalrymple, who has rather more than two-thirds of the parish, — 
the next is William Burn Callender, Esq. of Prestonhall ; after 
him Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, and Alexander Mackay, Esq. of 
Blackcastle. 

Parochicd Registers, — The parish registers are now regularly 
kept, — they are not voluminous. The baptismal register goes 
back to 1682 ; that of marriages to 1784 ; the session record to 
1783; the former session records are lost 

There is a history of the parish in manuscript, which, 1 believe, 
is now in the Advocates' Library. It was written by the late Sir 
John H. Dairy mple, father of the present Baronet. The religi- 
ous house at Cousland, formerly mentioned, was burnt by Somer- 
set when he invaded Scotland with a powerful army, to enforce 
the marriage of the beautiful Queen Mary with the young King 
of England. 

The lands of Cakemuir, though disjoined from Cranston by the 
parish of Crichton intervening, belong to this parish. The an- 
cient part of the mansion house of Cakemuir consists of a square 
tower, four storeys high, with bold projecting battlements surround- 
ing the roof. This building, still entire and inhabited, is doubtless 
of great antiquity. The extraordinarily thick and massive walls, as 
well as the style of architecture, shew the early age in which it 
was built Though .there is no certain information, when, or by 
whom it was erected, there is little doubt that it must have been 
by the Wauchopes of Cakemuir, for they appear to have held the 
lands at least for 300 years, before they were purchased by the 
present proprietor, Mr Mackay of Blackcastle. In the tower there 
is an apartment called Queen Mary's room, which, it is said, that 
unfortunate Princess, occupied, after having escaped, disguised in 
man's apparel, from the Castia of Borthwick, when that fortress 
was invested in June 1567, by Lord Home and his confede- 
rates, and before she went to join her husband Bothwell, at Dun- 
bar. This tradition seems well founded. Various documents 
show that the lands in the immediate neighbourhood formed part 
of the Lordship of Crichton, which, at the time referred to, belong- 
ed to Bothwell, Queen Mary's husband ; and that the Wauchopes 
of Cakemuir were Bothwell's vassals, consequently were designed, 
according to the custom of that age, his servitours or servants. 

Modem Buildinffs.^-^These are, Oxenford Castle, the magnifi- 

EDINBURGH. N 



194 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

cent seat of General Sir John H. Dalrymple, on the west bank of 
the Tyne, the grounds around which are very picturesque ; Pres- 
tonhall, the splendid mansion of William Burn Callender, Esq. ; 
on the opposite bank Chesterhall House, rather an old building, 
also belonging to Sir John H. Dalrymple, Bart An elegant Go- 
thic church, of freestone, was erected in 1835 ; and a very elegant 
manse, of freestone, in the manor style, was built in 1880. 

III. — Population. 
According to Dr Webster^s report, the population amounted to 

725 ; in 1 792, it was 839 ; in 1831, 1030. The increase is partly 
owing to the improved state of agriculture, the farmers being ob- 
liged to employ a greater number of hands, and partly to an ad- 
ditional number of colliers being required. The number of the 
population residing in villages is about 417, the rest reside in the 
country. The average number of recorded baptisms for the last 
seven years is 18, of marriages 7. There is no record kept of the 
deaths. 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age, is 428 

betwixt 15 and 30, . 279 

dO and 50, . 185 

50 and 70, 102 

upwards of 70, . 86 

The number of individuals of independent fortune^ ... 5 

landed proprietors of rental L. 50, and upwards, • 4 

unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of 
age, is supposed to be about . • .JO 

The number of unmarried women upwards of 45 is about . . 12 

The average number in each fieimily is . . • • . 4} 

There are 2 fatuous persons in this parish. 

Number of illegitimate births within the last three years, 4. . 

Character of the People. — The people in general are cleanly, 
industrious in their habits, and content with their circumstances ; 
they enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and advantages of 
society ; are commonly well-behaved, and pay attention to the 
public ordinances of religion. The principal part of their food 
consists of oatmeal and potatoes. Poaching in game does not 
prevail to any great extent, so far as known to me. 

IV. — Industry. 
AffrieuUure. — It was in this parish that the first example of the 
drill husbandry was given. Sir John Dalrymple, great grandfather 
to the present Baronet, was the first person who introduced into 
Scotland the sowing of turnip, and the planting of cabbages, in 
the open field. He, along with Mr Cockburn of Ormiston, esta« 
blished a society for the improvement of agriculture. All the pa- 
rish i9 in cultivation, except 200 or 300 acres on the fiirm of 



CRANSTON. 195 

Cakemuir. A mildew infects the banks of the Tyne, and some- 
times does considerable damage to wheat and oats. There are 
about 250 acres under wood. The trees generally planted are 
larch, beech, fir, and elm, which are managed with great care. 

The ayerage rent of arable land is from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3 per 
acre. A cow's grass costs L. 6. 

Wages, — Masons and wrights have about ]5s. a week in sum- 
mer, and 12s. in winter. Hinds and labourers have about 10s. in 
summer, and 9s. in winter. 

Leases, — The general duration of leases is nineteen years. 
The farm buildings and enclosures are in very good condition. 
The mode of farming in general has been very much improved of 
late. The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the 
parish may be stated, as nearly as can be ascertained, as follows : 

3000 imperial bolls of potatoes at 7s. per boll. 
150 aoies of turnips, say at L. 5 per acre, consumed on the ground. 
29,000 stones of hay. 

600 acres of arable land in pasture, .at L.6> per cow, and lis. per sheep. 
1800 bolls of wheat, old measure. 
2400 imperial quarters of oats. 
700 imperial quarters of barley. 
350 imperial quarters of pease and beans. 
The produce of gardens and orchards may be about L. 800. 
The annual thinning of wood is about L. 2 per acre. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

MarkeUToum^ Sfc, — The nearest market-*town is Dalkeith, which 
is distant about three miles and three-quarters. The villages in 
the parish are Cousland, Chesterhill, and Preston. The means of 
communication by turnpike roads are very good. There are two 
excellent turnpike roads which run through the parish, the one 
about a mile and a-half, the other a mile and three-quarters. Four 
public carriages travel daily on the high road, besides waggons. 
The fences are in a very good state of repair. 

Within the last three years, two new bridges have been erected 
in this parish, by the trustees of the Dalkeith district of roads, for 
the purpose of shortening and improving the line of the London 
road by Cranston church, and the village of Pathhead. Cranston 
Dean Bridge is 46 feet in height, and consists of three semicircu- 
lar arches of 17 feet span ; the whole building is of ashler, and 
the piers being only 3 feet in thickness, the bridge has a very light 
appearance. 

Lothian Bridge, erected over the Tyne on the south boundary 
of the parish, is 82 feet in height, and consists of five semicircular 
arches of 50 feet span, surmounted by ten segment arches of 54 



f 



196 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

feet span, and 8 feet of rise. The piers are 8 feet thick, by 28 
feet broad, but hollow in the centre, as are also the abutments. 
The whole building is of ashler, presenting a happy combination 
of durability and lightness, and adding much to the ornament of 
the adjoining grounds. The erection of the bridges was suggested 
by General Sir John Hamilton Dalryrople, Bart convener of the 
trustees of the Dalkeith district of roads. They were designed 
by Thomas Telford, Esq. engineer, and built by Mr James Leesy 
mason. 

On the same line of road an embankment over the Cottv-bum, 
about half a mile to the north of Cranston church, is now made, 
the extreme height of which is 54 feet. By these operations, the 
line of road from the north end of the village of Pathhead, to the 
top of Fordel bank, a distance of about two miles, is shortened fully 
1200 yards ; the access is rendered much easier, and many fine 
prospects of the beautifully wooded and highly cultivated country 
in the neighbourhood will be opened up. 

Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is about 
three miles and a half from the eastern extremity of the parish, and 
three-quarters of a mile from the western extremity. It was built 
at the sole expense of General Sir John Dairy mple in 1825, and 
is a very neat structure of freestone, in the Gothic form. It can ac- 
commodate between 300 and 400 persons. An elegant new manse, 
in the manor style, with very commodious offices, was built in 1830 
at the sole expense of William Burn Callender, Esq. The ex- 
tent of the glebe is 10 acres, 3 roods, 17 falls, 4 ells, Scotch mea* 
sure ; it is let for L. 2, 10s. an acre. The stipend is 17 chalders, 
with the usual allowance for communion elements. There is also 
about L. 20 arising from the interest of L. 550, which was given 
to the living by William Burn Callender, Esq. of Prestonhall, in 
lieu of the coal on the old glebe. Divine service at the Established 
Church is well attended ; there are generally above 200 present. 
The average number of communicants is 254. The average an- 
nual amount of church collections is about L. 8. About 62 fa^* 
milies belong to the Established Church ; and about 36 are Dis- 
senting or Seceding. 

Education. — There are 3 schools in the parish, viz. the paro- 
chial school, an unendowed school in the village of Cousland,' and 
a sewing-school ; there are also 2 Sabbath schools. The branches 
of instruction generally taught are, English, writing, arithmetic, 
and book-keeping. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster i^ 



CRANSTON. 197 

the maximum. His fees may amount to L. 15 or L. 20 a year. 
He has also L. 3 a year as session*clerL He has the legal accom- 
modations. There are very few persons, indeed, above fifteen 
years of age, who caiinot read or write. The people, in general, 
are alive to the benefits of education. 

Library. — A parish library was instituted in 1830, which pro- 
mises to be highly useful to all classes. 

Friendly Society. — There is only one Friendly Society, which 
must be of great benefit to the working classes, and tends to les- 
sen the number on the poor's roll. 

Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial relief 
is about 22, who are paid, on an average, 4s. per month. The ave- 
rage annual amount of contributions at the church-doors is about 
L. 8. The hearse and mortcloth dues last year amounted to about 
L.d. There is L.16, 16s. 6d. of yearly interest arising from L. 357, 
left by some charitable persons in behalf of the poor, which capital 
was invested, some time ago, in the. public funds. The rest of the 
money that is required for the support of the poor is made up by 
assessment upon the heritors and tenants. Some of the poor con- 
sider it degrading to seek relief from the parish funds, others do 
not The assessment amounts to about L. 60 per annum. 

^/eA0t(«ej.— There are 8 alehouses, which have no good ef- 
fects upon the morals of the people. 

October 1839. 



PARISH OF HERIOT. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. ROBERT COURT, MINISTER.* 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Extent and Boundaries. — The figure of this parish is an oblong 

square form, e&tending gjeographically 6^ miles by d|. It contains 
23§ square miles, and is bounded on the south, by 'Stow ; on the 
west, by Inverleithen ; on the north, by. Temple and Borthwick ; 
and on the east, by Stow and part of Fala. It is strictly pastoral, 
and may well be denominated a parish of hills ; one acre in ten 
only being arable. The highest hill is that of Blackup Scars, on 
the north-west point, and is the most lofty in the county, being 
2193 feet above the level of the sea, and not less, I should think, 
than 1000 above the stream at its base. The next to it is that 
of Dewar, in the south-west comer, which is 1654 feet in height. 
These hills are called the Moorfoot, and are a branch of the Lam- 
mermuir and Soutra, from the east, stretching toward Peebles on 
the west. The land on the banks of the Heriot is rich and fertile, 
and, where well farmed, extremely productive. The want of a 
suitable road to the top of the parish for the conveyance of lime 
has been long felt ; and if ever accomplished, must enhance con- 
siderably the value of property, — there being many acres either 
not at all or indifferently cultivated, for want of proper access; 
and where lime has reached, there is the most marked difference. 

Climate. — The climate, though cold, is extremely salubrious, 
and many of the inhabitants arrive at a good old age. The 
healthy aspect of the children, especially, has often attracted the 
notice of strangers. 

Hydrography. — Heriot Water is the principal stream. It rises 
in the north-west end of the parish, and after a circuitous course 
of upwards of five miles, unites with the Gala, exactly at the eastern 

* Drawn up by the late Incumbent, the Rev. Edward Hume, and revised by the 
present Incumbent, the Rev. Robert Court. 



HERIOT. 199 

boundary, about a mile and a half below the church. Gala water, , 
renowned in song, rises in the north-east quarter of the parish, 
through which it runs about two miles before its junction with the 
Heriot The Heriot is subject to frequent floods, which come 
down with amazing rapidity, overflowing the banks, and sometimes 
doing considerable damage to property. The highest flood in the 
memory of the oldest inhabitants took place in August 1837. On 
that occasion, the Heriot suddenly rose with a rapidity and to a 
height wholly unprecedented. Dikes and walls of considerable 
strength were either levelled or swept away by the torrent ; and 
the low ground presented the appearance of one great sheet of 
water. 

Soil — The soil on the banks of the water is of the Gnest descrip- 
tion, and, were it not for the climate, would produce most abun- 
dant crops, which, notwithstanding, occasionally occur in good 
seasons. There is little or no wheat grown, and barley is now- 
substituted instead of bear. 

Live-stock — This parish has been long famed for its breeding 
of stock. Most of the farmers feed ofi^ cattle of their own rearing. 
They generally feed to between Gfty and sixty stones. The sheep 
are numerous, and of fine quality. They are almost wholly of 
the black-faced kind. Their lambs frequently bring the top prices. 
The number kept in the parish for breeding is 7660 in all. 

Botany, — The hills afford an inviting field for the botanist. 
Multitudes of the rarer species of plants are to be found distribut- 
ed in every corner, and are well worthy a visit from those fond of 
that delightful study in the summer months. The months of 
August and September seem the most favourable for botanizing. 
There is a great want of plantations. The larch and the beech 
and the plane thrive best. The oldest tree is a plane near the 
church called the Bell Tree, from the circumstance of the church 
bell having been suspended upon it. Its exact age cannot be as- 
certained, but it is supposed to be nearly 250 years. 

IL — Civil History. 
In regard to the civil history of the parish there is an ancient ac- 
count of it in manuscript, in the possession of A. Macdonald, Esq. 
Register Office, to whose kindness I am indebted for its perusal. It 
was drawn up in 161^7 by William Borthwick, Esq. of Hallheriot, 
now Borthwickhall, and Mr Scott, elder, Heriot-town ; and, after 
a few observations on the church and living, gives a detailed account 
of the valuation of each of the properties in the parish at that pe- 



900 EDINBUBGHSHiUE. 

riod. Chalmers, id his Caledonia, is more minute in his descrip- 
tion. He gives its history so far as known ; whereas the former 
seems conBned to*an account at the then present time. It is also 
alluded to in the taxatio of Mid-Lothian. 

We learn from Chalmers's Caledonia, that the church of He- 
riot was once of *^ considerable value." In the ancient taxatio it 
is rated at 80 merks, or mercas, a sum equal to that of many now 
considered much superior. 

The patronage of the church, during the twelfth and part of 
the thirteenth century, belonged to Roger de Quincy, then Lord of 
the Manor, and Constable of Scotland, who, it is supposed, had de- 
rived it, in all probability, from the Lords of Galloway, who them- 
selves may have received it from the Morvilles. In the division 
of De Quincy's estates among his three daughters, Heriot fell to 
Elena, the youngest, who married La Touche, an English Baron« 
Elena afterwards granted the Monks of Newbotle — now called 
erroneously Newbattle — the Church of Heryeth, as it was then cal- 
led. This grant was confirmed by a Bull of Nicholas, and both 
were confirmed by Fraser, the Bishop of St Andrews, then dioce- 
san. By a chapter in 1309, William Blair, the vicar of Heryeth, 
resigned his vicarage to Lamberton, Bishop of St Andrews^ on 
which the diocesan immediately conferred the whole vicarage re- 
venues on the Monks of Newbotle, and issued a mandate to the 
Dean of Haddington, commanding him to put them in possession of 
them. These monks seem also to have afterwards acquired the lands 
of the church, but when or from whom is unknown. ^* It is, how- 
ever, certain," says Chalmers, '^ that both the chyrch and lands of 
Heryeth belonged to the monks of Newbotle at the Reforma- 
tion," which is confirmed by Borthwick and Scott's Account of 
the parish, drawn out in the time of Charles L, in the year 1627» 
wherein it is said, " that the kirk belongs to the Abbotcy of 
Newbattle," and that the benefice ^^ consists of a parsonage and 
vicarage." It adds, " that it is a several kirk and benefice of it- 
self, and consisted of laick patronage before the Reformation ;" 
and that there *^ are no prebendaries, chaplanries, frierlands, 
but ane rowme called Kirkland Hill, haldin of the house of New- 
battle." Kirkland Hill is now the name of a farm-steading, be- 
longing to the Crookston estate, prettily situated on the side of the 
water, and about three-quarters of a mile distant from the church. 
The lands and patronage after the Reformation came into tho 

3 



HERIOT. 201 

possession of Mnrk Kerr, supposed Commendator of Newbattle, 
to whose heir thev descended. 

In 1609, Robert, the second Earl of Lothiail, was served heir 
to his father, Mark, in the lands of Heriot and Heriot-moor, which 
were afterwards sold to W«alter Hay, to whose son they descended 
in 164a 

On the failure of this family, at the death of the late Lord 
Borthwick, in 1692, the barony of Heriot was acquired by a son 
of Lord Stair, then one of the Clerks of Session, upon which 
he was styled Dalrymple of Borthwick, from whom it descended^ 
through the late Dowager Lady Dalrymple, to her eldest son, Sir 
John H. Dalrymple of Cousland and Fala, Bart., Oxenford Castle, 
present proprietor. 

It is supposed by some that Douglas, author of the celebrated 
translation of Virgil's iEneid, who once held the provostship of St 
Giles in Edinburgh, and afterwards became Bishop of Dunkeld, 
was rector at Heriot. Upon investigation, however, we find this 
to be incorrect ; for on examining the manuscript copy of his life 
prefixed to his work, it is not Heriot, but Hawick that is mentioned. 

Land-Owners. — The land-owners are 7 in all, viz. Sir John 
Dalrymple, Bart, principal heritor and patron ; the Earl of Rose- 
berry ; J. Borthwick, Esq. of Crookston ; Thomas Adinston, Esq. 
of Carcant ; S. Eraser, Esq. of Garvald ; Thomas Cranston, Esq. 
of Dewar; William Bail lie, Esq. of Falahill. 

Parochial Reffiaters.-^The ancient parochial registers are very 
imperfect, and have been very irregularly kept. There are only 
three, the fourth being lost. The earliest bears date 1685. 
They record only baptisms and deaths, and the latter imperfectly. 

Antiquities. — On the tops of some of the hills are to be found the 
remains of ancient camps. One or two are quite distinct, and con- 
sist of three or more concentric circles with the marks of gateways. 
But whether encampments of the Romans, Britons, Danes, Picts, 
or Scots, we have no means of determining. On the south-east 
boundary of the farm of Dewar, and road side leading to Inver- 
leithen, and quite in the march between the parishes, are to be 
seen the head and footstones of a grave. It is said to be' that of 
the piper of Peebles, who, undertaking for a wager to play from 
Peebles to Lauder, became exhausted and fell down, and was bu- 
ried where he died. On Dewar Hill, not far from the piper's 
grave, there is a large stone called Lot's Wife, the cause of which 
title is unknown. At a little distance from it again, is a place cal- 



202 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

led the Wolf's Cieugh, concerning which a traditionary story is told* 
It is said that this cleugh was inhabited by a ravenous wolf, which 
phmdered and annoyed the neighbouring country, attacking and 
destroying many who attempted to pass that way. At last a re- 
ward of the lands was offered to him who should slay this de- 
structive creature. One appeared who succeeded in slaying it, 
and, obtaining the lands, called them Dewar, after his own name. 
Near Heriot House, there is also a stone called Mary Gibb's, from 
an unfortunate woman who is said to have been burnt upon it for 
witchcrafit. 

There is on Heriot-town hill-head a circle of high stones, 70 or 
80 feet diameter ; and on Borthwick Hall hill-head, three large 
rings or ditches, about 50 paces diameter. Chalmers says that 
these contain the only Druidical remains in Scotland, save those 
in Kirknewton parish. 

ni. — Population. 
From Borthwick and Scott's account of the parish in 1627, it 

would appear that there was nearly double the number of inhabi- 
tants then that there is now. It is there mentioned that the 
number of communicants was eleven score, which, supposing that 
number the third part of the population, would make it amount 
to 660, which is more than double that of the present amount. 

Population in 1801, - 820 

1811, . SOO 

1821, - 298 

1831, - 827 

The average number of persons under 15 years of age, is 95 

betwixt 15 and 80, 76 

80 and 50, 45 

50 and 70, 12 

upwards of 70, 8 

Independent families, . > . 1 

Proprietors of land, . . .7 

Unmarried men upwards of 50, . . 8 

Unmarried women upwards of 45, . .7 

Number of iamilies, . .50 

Average number of children in each family, . * 4 

Number of families chiefly employed in agriculture, 21 

trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 7 

Number of illegitimate births during the last three years, 8. 

The people are in general intelligent, sober, and industrious. 
Smuggling, which was once very common in the parish, has ceased 
to be carried on ; but it is to be lamented that poaching in game, 
especially in salmon, prevails to a great degree. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — The total number of acres English is 15,000, 

Scotch 12,000 ; 9633 of which are uncultivated and remain con- 
stantly in pasture ; 1286 might be profitably cultivated. 



HE RIOT. 203 

Rent qfljandy ^'^.--T-The average rent of land is about L. 1, 5s. 
per acre. The extent of the farms varies from 50 to 2000 acres. 

The general term of leases is for nineteen years. 

The farm- steadings throughout are disgraceful. The enclo* 
sures are few, and shamefully executed. The hills, though well 
adapted for planting, are without a tree ; the want of which im- 
pedes immensely agricultural improvement Were planting adopt- 
ed to any extent in so favourable a field, it would not only improve 
the climate, but incalculably benefit the farmer, and enhance the 
value of the land. 

Produce.-^ Amount of raw produce raised in the parish : — 

Value of all kinds of grain, as nearly as possibly can be found, L. 4265 
ofpotatoes, L.104 

of turnips, . 473 

ofhay, . . . 615 ' 

of meadow do. . . 187 

1879 



Total yearly value of all kinds of grain and raw produce wfaatever, L. 5644 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market'Tmon* — The nearest markets town is Dalkeith, twelve 

miles from the centre of the parish, and nine to the nearest boundary. 

There is no village in the parish. The post-ofiice is at Fushie 
Bridge, distant seven miles. The length of the turnpike in the 
parish is nearly three miles.* 

Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is conveniently situated 
in nearly the very centre of the parish. It was rebuilt in 1804, 
since which time it has undergone considerable repair, and were it 
lathed and made free from damp, might be considered a neat, cleanly 
place of worship. It is small, and may afibrd accommodation for 
about 200. The sittings are all divided among the tenantry. 
There are no free sittings, except the communion table seats, which 
are comfortably fitted up. The walb of the former church were 
much more substantial than those of the present, and would, with 
little repair, have been in every respect better. The date of its 
erection cannot be discovered, but in all probability it was as old, 
or older than the ancient bell, which bore date 1518, with the fol- 
lowing inscription :*-^^ Maria Vocor, Ao. Dni. Mcccccxviii. 
Jhonn Dawies.'^ The manse was rebuilt in 1799, and in 1829 
was extensively repaired, and may now be considered remarkably 
comfortable. There is an excellent garden, of deep and rich soil, 
and with the very best exposure. The glebe, adjoining the manse, 
consisting of 16 Scotch, or 20 English acres or thereby, is of the 

* About four miles of the new turnpike to Inverleithen, which intersects the north 
and north-west district of the parish) may now be added. 1839. 



204 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

finest land. It is rented at L, 27. The stipend is, as enlarged by 
the King's bounty, L. 150, and L. 8 for communion elements. 

The number of people attending church about 160; attending 
meeting, I should think about 40 in alL 

Divine service in the Established Church is remarkably well at- 
tended. Number of communicants about 100. 

The probable amountof church-door collections may be annually 
about L. 8, 10s. ; for religious purposes about L. 6.* 

Education. — One parochial school in the parish; salary maxi- 
mum ; school fees about L. 25 per annum. 

All can read and v^rite ; and the people are deeply alive to the 
Importance of education. 

There is a parochial library, which is little prized. 

Poor. — Number on poor's roll, 3 ; two of whom have 12s. per 
month, and one 6s. per month, raised by assessment. The assess- 
ment amounts, on an average, to L. 22, 10s. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
Since the preceding Account was drawn up a considerable im- 
provement in the Parochial Economy has taken place. The re- 
proach of disgraceful farm steadings and shamefully executed en- 
closures has been in a great measure, though not altogether, wiped 
away by the erection of plain -but commodious houses on several 
of the farms, and the building of substantial dry stone dikes pret- 
ty generally throughout the parish, especially during the last two 
or three, years. The parish church, too, has been greatly im- 
proved by the raising of its walls, formerly too low, and by the 
addition of a small gallery, containing nearly thirty sittings, erect- 
ed at the joint expense of two of ^ the heritors, Thomas Adinston, 
Esq., and John Borthwick, Esq. In noticing church accommoda- 
tion, it may be proper to mention that a great proportion of the 
inhabitants of the upper district of Stow parish, to the north of 
the Armilt or Crookston water, in consequence of the distance 
from their own parish church, find it more convenient to attend at 
Heriot Some steps have been taken to disjoin that district en- 
tirely from Stow, and annex it quoad sacra to Heriot, and it is 
hoped that an arrangement so reasonable and desirable will soon 
be completed. 

* The sum of L.12, 48. was collected in Heriot church last year (18S8,) for the 
General A8semb]y*B Schemes. 

October 1839. 



PARISH OF CORSTORPHINE.* 

PHESBTTBRT OF EDINBURGH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEED DALE. 

THE REV. DAVID HORNE, MINISTER. 



L — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Corstorphine was anciently written Crostorfin or 

Crostorfyn^ as in the foundation charter of Holyrood House in 
1 128, and in Ragman's Roll of 1296. Several derivations have 
been proposed. Chalmers in his Caledonia frequently refers to it 
as a Celtic word, but in his description of the parish, he inter- 
prets it as the Cross of Torphin, acknowledging at the same time 
that he cannot trace any connection between Torphin, who was 
grandson of Malcolm II., and died in 1014, and this part of the 
country. It may, however, be noticed, in corroboration of this de- 
rivation, that Torphin is the name of a large tract of country in 
the district of West Calder. Another derivation is from the Nor- 
man or French words, " Crois d'orejirij'* or cross of fine gold, and 
this we think the more probable of the two, from the circumstance 
that the earliest proprietors of Crostorfin were Normaps, who, in 
that age, were devoted friends of the church, and fond of the em- 
blem of the cross. Tradition likewise supports this derivation, and 
connects with it the existence of a golden cross in the chapel of 
the estate in early times. 

Extent and Boundaries, — The present parish of Corstorphine 
includes within its bounds part of the ancient parish of Gogar, the 
remainder of which was annexed to the adjoining parishes of Kirk- 
liston and Ratho. It also includes the lands of Ravelston and 
Saughton, which were detached from St Cuthberts by the Teind 
Commission of 1627, and united to Corstorphine in 1633, by an 
act of the Scotch Parliament. The parish is about 4 miles in 
length, and its greatest breadth is about 2:^ miles. It is bounded 
on the north, by Cramond and Kirkliston ; on the east, by St Cuth- 

* Drawn up by Thomas Thomson, Esq. W. S. 



206 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

berts ; on the south, by Colinton, Currie, and Ratho ; and on the 
west, by Ratho and Kirkliston. 

Topographical Appearances. — The greater part of the parish 
consists of a tract of low-lying meadow land, which extends from 
near Coltbridge to Redheughs. The village is situated in the 
centre of this tract, and is slightly elevated above the level of the 
meadows on Doth sides. Towards the north-east, lies Corstor- 
phine hill, an eminence covered with wood, which rises 474 feet 
above the level of the sea, and commands most delightful prospects 
in every direction. To the west of Corstorphine hill, is a ridge of 
rocky ground called East and West Craigs, which overlooks the 
western meadow. The ground in the western division of the pa- 
rish is more diversified and undulated, rising on both sides of the 
Gogar-burn, and gently sloping towards the water. 

Hydrography. — The only streams in the parish are the rivulets 
of Leith and Gogar ; the former running through the south- 
eastern division of the parish, and the latter through the lands of 
Gogar, and falling into the river Almond, in the adjoining parish 
of Kirkliston. In former times, there were two lochs in the mea- 
dows, which are represented in Blaew's Atlas, in the Map of Lo- 
thian, which was prepared about 1640, as situated, one on each 
side of Corstorphine Castle, and as supplying with water a ditch 
which surrounded the grounds belonging to the Castle. 

There is a mineral spring near the village of Corstorphine, which 
is very similar in taste to the water of St Bernard's Well, Edin- 
burgh. Dr Monro, in his book on Mineral Waters, Vol. i. page 
209, says, that ^^ it is a weak, sulphureous water, from which Dr 
Short got by evaporation eleven grains of sediment from a gallon, 
four grains of which were clay, and seven grains, a saline matter 
composed of sea salt and a calcareous glauber. This water has 
been used for the cure of scrofulous complaints." For many years 
previous to the end of the last century, and at the commencement 
of the present, this well was in great repute, and for the sake of it 
Corstorphine was much resorted to as a watering-place,* so much 
so, that in the month of May 1749,f a stage-chaise wa$ set up, 
which travelled between Corstorphine and Edinburgh eight or nine 
times every week-day, and four times on Sunday. It is said that 
one of the ladies of the family of Dick of Prestoufield and Corstor- 

* Webster's Topographical Dictionary, word Corstorphine. 
t Scots Magazine, Vol. xi. p. 259. 

4 



CORSTOIIPHINE. 207 

phine experienced so much benefit from using the water, that she 
took up her residence in the village, and erected a building over 
the well, placing a pump on it so as to make it more convenient 
and accessible to the inhabitants. This erection was allowed to 
fall into disrepair, when the well lost its popularity, and the last 
vestige of it was removed about fourteen years ago, and a deep ditch 
was made on the north side of it, which completely destroyed the 
spring. As this well was so much connected with the prosperity 
of the village in former times, many of the old inhabitants are 
anxious to have it restored, and there is now some prospect of its 
being again fitted up for use as a public well, with the concurrence 
of the adjoining proprietors. The lease of the farm on which it was 
situated, still contains an exception of a space of ground round the 
mineral well, and a footpath to it, from the village, of at least 
four feet wide. 

Climate. — The village has always been considered as very 
healthy, although, from want of proper drainage, the soil is very wet 
and the atmosphere damp. The cause of its salubrity has been 
said to be its exposure to a rapid and complete circulation of air. 
When the cholera was prevalent in this country there were no 
cases in the village of Corstorphine, and only a few of a fatal 
character at the outskirts of the parish. 

Botany. — From its vicinity to Edinburgh, the natural history of 
this parish has been so fiilly investigated that it is unnecessary to 
enter upon it here. We shall merely notice one or two of the 
rarer plants that have been found in it. PheUandrium aquaticum 
grows in the ditches of the meadows ; and Pyrola rotundifolia^ 
AnthyUis vtdneraria^ Tanacetum vulgare^ Libera ovata^ and Ery^ 
threa centaurea are found at Gogar, and Parietaria officinalis on 
the ruins of Corstorphine Castle. Among the trees which for- 
mer^ decorated the park of the Castle there is a very fine syca- 
more tree, near the old pigeon-house, which has a most beautiful 
golden colour in the sunshine, when the leaves first come out in 
spring. 

Quarries. — There were at one time extensive freestone quarries 
in Corstorphine Hill, upon the lands of Ravelston, from 'which 
the stone was taken for the Parliament House, Heriot's Hospital, 
and other public buildings erected in Edinburgh, between the years 
1682 and 1650. These quarries have not been in operation for 
the last twenty years, but one of them has been lately cleared of 
water, and the proprietor has advertised for a tenant to work it. 



208 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

There are also two trap or blue wfainstoiie quarries in the parish, one 
at West Craigs, which is used occasionally for building farm-stead* 
ings, but principally for road metal, and the other at Clermiston. 

11. — Civil History. 
Historical Events. — During the residence of the family of For- 
rester of Corstorphine this parish was not unfrequently the scene 
of war and devastation. In 1446, the lands of Corstorphine were 
overrun by the Chancellor Crichton and his military vassals, and 
the house levelled with the ground, in retaliation for a similar out- 
rage committed by Sir John Forrester and William, Earl of Doug- 
las, on the estate and castle of Brankstoun, which then belonged 
to the Chancellor. In 1572, the house and college of Corstor- 
phine were garrisoned by the Earl of Mar, then Regent of the 
kingdom, along with all the other strengths round Edinburgh, to 
prevent supplies from reaching the castle, which was then in pos- 
session of William Kirkcaldy of Grange. In 1650, there was a 
more serious and long-continued occupation of the parish, first by 
General Leslie and his army, and afterwards by Oliver Cromwell 
and his soldiers. Leslie's army was posted in the meadow on the 
east of Corstorphine, when Cromwell, who was encamped on the 
Pentland Hills, marched northwards with the object of interpos- 
ing his. army between Leslie and Linlithgow, and thus forcing an 
engagement. Leslie, however, so manoeuvred as to defeat this ob- 
ject, for he marched westward about two miles, and then entrench- 
ed himself in an impregnable position on Gogar-field, from whence 
Cromwell attempted to dislodge him, but the ground was so boggy 
between the armies that he was obliged to desist, and to content 
himself with a brisk fire of artillery, which was returned with spirit 
by Leslie, who brought into play, for the first time, upon that oc* 
casion, several kinds of field-pieces invented by Colonel Wemyss, 
his General of Artillery.* The field on which this fight took j)lace 
(on which the villas of Gogar -burn and Hanley now stand) is still 
known among the old inhabitants by the name of " The Flashes ;" 
a name which it is said to have received from fire-arms being used in 
the fight of greater power and variety than was usual at that time. 
This skirmish continued from the afternoon till late in the evening of 
Tuesday the 27th August 1650, and operated as such a check on 
Cromwell's designs, that he immediately retreated to his camp at 
Musselburgh, and afterwards towards England : Leslie following 
in his rear and harassing his march, till he reached Dunbar, where, 
owing to the impetuosity and want of discipline of the Scottish 

* Thomson's Acts, Vol. Tii. page 46, and page 17 of Appendix. 



I 



CORSTORPHINE. 201) 

army, Cromwell at last succeeded in bringing on the unfortunate 
battle of Dunbar, which enabled him to retrace his steps, and re- 
turn to Edinburgh as a victor. * 

Shortly after this victory, part of the English army occupied Cor- 
storphine and its vicinity, where they continued till the month of 
August in the following year. During this period, both the clergy- 
men and the principal landed proprietors absented themselves from 
the parish, and Lord Forrester was actively engaged in attempt- 
ing to raise the country against the English. In retaliation for 
this hostility, the English soldiers defaced the stone figures of the 
Forresters in the chancel, damaged the whole interior of the 
church, pulled down the place of public repentance, and laid waste 
the estate of Corstorphine. f 

Estates and Proprietors, — The two principal properties in this 
parish, in former times, were the estates of Corstorphine and Go- 
gar, which, for a long series of years, were occupied by influential 
families. The first noticed proprietors of Corstorphine are, Da- 
vid le Mareschall, in the reign of Alexander II., and Tliomas le 
Mareschall and William de la Roche, whose names occur in Rag- 
man's Roll of 1296. The family of the two former continued in 
possession of that estate till the reign of David II., when it was 
forfeited by David le Mareschall, and given by the King to Mal- 
colm Ramsay. It was next held by William More of Abercorne, 
who disponed it to his brother, Gilchrist More, by whom it was 
sold, in August 1376, to Adam Forrester, Burgess of Edinburgh, 
in whose family it remained down to the year 1698. This family 
is so interwoven with the history of the parish, and conferred on 
it so many benefits, that we cannot pass them over without some 
farther detail. The founder, Adam Forrester, was a successful 
merchant in Edinburgh, and probably acquired the greater part of 
his fortune in the reign of David II. by trading with England. In 
the Rotuli Scotiae, we find a license granted to him to bring grain 
into Scotland without payment of duty. In the same reign, he 
acquired the lands of Whitburn and NiddrefT, and in the follow- 
ing several additional estates. In 1873} he was Provost of Edin- 
burgh, and in 1382, Sheriff of Lothian.^ He was frequently em- 
ployed in embassies to England, and seems to have been held in 
much esteem by King Robert III., who made him Keeper of the 
Great Seal in ld90.§ In 1402, he was present at the Battle of 

* See Memoirs of Captain Slingsby, 8ic, f Parish Register and Nieoir$ Diary. 

* See Hotuli Scotie, Vol. ii. § Keg. Mag. Sigil. p. 184. 

EDINBURGH. O 






210 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Homildon Hill, and having been taken prisoner, was, along 
with several of the most illustrious prisoners, presented to King 
Henry IV. in full Parliament, where he acted as spokesman for 
the others.* During the last year of his life, he was Depute- 
Chamberlain of the southern division of the kingdom, under the 
Earl of Buchan.f His 6rst wife was Agnes, daughter of John 
Dundas of Fingask ; and he was afterwards married to a lady whose 
Christian name was Margaret, who survived him about twenty years. 
He died in 1404, and was buried in the chapel of St John the 
Baptist at Corstorphine. The stone which originally covered his 
remains is built into the west wall of the session-house, and has 
on it an inscription, now almost defaced, commencing ^* Hie jacet 
Adam Forstar." 

Sir John Forrester, his eldest son, was brought up at Courts 
and succeeded his father in the situation of Depute- Chamberlain 
of the southern division of the kingdom.^: He obtained a charter 
to the estate of Corstorphine from William More of Abercome, 
then the superior, on 22d March 1392, which was probably on the 
occasion of his marriage. After 1408, he acted as Depute- Cham- 
berlain of the whole kingdom, under the Earl of Buchan, who 
seems to have devolved upon him all the duties of the office of 
High Chamberlain. In this situation he continued down to the 
year 1425, but in that interval he held also several other appoint- 
ments. In 1416, he was named one of the Commissioners to treat 
with England for the King's liberty, and in 1421, he was made 
Lord Privy Seal. His crown charter to the estates of Corstor- 
phine, Drylaw, Nether Liberton, Meadowfield, and Clerkington, 
erecting them into the Barony of Corstorphine, is dated 10th July 
1424; and in the same year he was one of the hostages given for 
the King's ransom. As a remuneration for his numerous services, 
on the King's return to Scotland, a new office was created for him 
under the name of Magister Hospitiiy Master of the Horse, and in 
the following year he was made Lord High Chamberlain. It was 
at this period of his life, that he founded and endowed the Colle- 
giate Church of Corstorphine. 

Sir John Forrester was three times married. The surname of 
his first wife, Margaret, is unknown, but the second was Lady Jean 
St Clair, daughter of the first Earl of Orkney, and his third was 
Marian Stewart, daughter of Sir Walter ' Stewart of Garlies, and 

• Parliamentary History, Vol. ii. p. 71. 

'I' See Chamberlain^s Account, Vol. ii. \ Ibid. Vol. ii. aod iii. 



CORSTORPHINE. 211 

relict of Sir John Stewart of Jed worth. He died in 1440, and 
was buried in the chancel of the collegiate church. 

Sir John Forrester, his eldest son, seems to have been better 
fitted for the field of battle than for the cabinet, and does not ap- 
pear to have held any civil appointment. He took part with the 
Earls of Douglas in their struggles with the Chancellor Crich- 
ton and Livingston, and led the troops which besieged and demo- 
lished Brankston Castle in J 446. His sasine in the estate of Cor- 
storphine is dated ]5th September 1436; he was also buried in 
the chancel of the collegiate church, and the stone figure above 
his grave represents a man of Herculean mould. 

Sir Alexander Forrester, the next proprietor of Corstorphine, 
appears to have been strongly actuated by the superstition of the 
age in which he lived, for he led two separate pilgrimages to the 
shrines of Thomas a Becket at Canterbury, and John de Amyace 
in Picardie, — the former in 1464, and the latter in 1466. On 
both occasions, he was accompanied by Sir John Lauder of Hal- 
ton and several other of the neighbouring proprietors, and they 
took with them thirty followers.* 

Archibald Forrester, his son, was infeft in Corstorphine on 20th 
February 1467, and is mentioned as present in Parliament on 7th 
January 1504-5; his son, 

Alexander Forrester, obtained a charter under the Great Seal 
to the Barony of Corstorphine on 13th September 153db 

James Forrester got Meadowfield from his father on Idth Ja- 
nuary 1538, and afterwards succeeded to the rest of the Barony 
of Corstorphine. 

Sir James Forrester was very young when his father died, and 
was served heir to him in February 1547. Besides the Barony of 
Corstorphine, he had the lands of Nether Bern ton, Thirleston, and 
Lowriston; he died in 1589 without leaving any issue, and was 
succeeded by his only brother, 

Henry Forrester, who took possession of Corstorphine on 8th 
November 1589. On 23d June 1607, he resigned the Barony of 
Corstorphine in favour of his son, 

George Forrester, who obtained a Crown charter in his own 
favour on 15th November 1607. He was made a Baronet in 
1625, and a Peer on 11th July 1633, under the title of Lord 
Forrester of Corstorphine. He was an elder of the parish for 
many years, and attended most faithfully to the duties of the oU 

* Rotuli Scotiic, Vol. ii. 



212 P^DINBURGHSHIUE. 

fice. He died on 2dd April 1651, leaving five daughters. He 
entailed his estates of Corstorphine, &c. on James Baillie, young- 
er of Torwoodhead, who married Joanna, his fourth daughter, 
and their heirs, whom failing, on William Baillie of the same fa- 
mily, who married Lillias, his fifth daughter, and their heirs, and 
the patent of his peerage was granted to the same series of heirs. 
In virtue of these destinations, James Baillie became Lord For- 
rester of Corstorphine, He was an ardent royalist, and was ac- 
tively engaged with his party during the time of the Common- 
wealth. Nicol, in his Diary, mentions that, on one occasion, while 
Cromwell's soldiers [were in Edinburgh, Lord Forrester issued a 
proclamation, which was affixed to the most considerable close 
heidis, and upon all the public places in Edinburgh, calling on all 
persons residing in Mid- Lothian to put forth horse according to 
their rents for the King's army. He was fined by Cromwell 
L. 2500 Sterling, and his estate was overrun and destroyed by the 
English troops. In consequence of these proceedings his affairs 
became involved, and, being unable to pay the provisions Jeft to 
his mother and sisters, and the debts of the first Lord, the rents 
of his estate of Corstorphine were attached by numerous creditors. 
He became very dissipated and abandoned in his character, — fre- 
quently spending days drinking in an alehouse in the village of 
Corstorphine. On one of these occasions, he was sent for by 
Christian Hamilton, daughter of James Hamilton of Grange, and 
wife of an Edinburgh merchant, named Andrew Nimmo, with 
whom he had carried on an intrigue, and who had come out to vi- 
sit him at Corstorphine Castle. He was unwilling to obey the 
summons, and she being a person of a violent and ungovernable 
temper, was in her way to the alehouse to enforce his attention, 
when they met near the Pigeon House, to the east of the castle, and 
aquarrel ensued, when she murdered him with.his own sword. This 
happened on 26th August 1679.* There being no issue alive of 
his marriage with Joanna Forrester, his brother, 

* See a full account of this tragical event in a note at the foot of page 182 of Kirk. 
ton*s History of the Church of Scotland, edited by C. K. Sharpe. In this note» it 
is said that Lord Forrester was a Presbyterian zealot, and had erected a meeting, 
house near Edinburgh, after the indulgence granted in 1679. This is obviously a 
mistake, for James Lord Forrester is represented in the parish register as an Episco- 
palian, who, at one time, set at defiance the orders of the presbytery, and, at another, 
urged the clergyman of the parish to obtain lists of the con-conformists, with the view 
of enforcing the laws against them. The story of his erecting a meeting-house must 
have arisen from what is stated by Lord Fountainhall regarding William Lord For- 
rester, who, having quarrelled with Mr Henry, the minister of the parish, prevented 
his tenants from attending the church, and advised them to go to the meeting- houses, 
but not because he approved of the non 'Conformists ; ^* for," says Lord Fountainhall, 
" the discord^was Mr Henry lent him jnoncy, whereof he was seeking payment.*' 



COUSTOHPHINE. 213 

« 

William Baillie^ succeeded to his estates and titles. He died 
in 16849 and was succeeded by his son, William, the fourth 
Lord Forrester; but Corstorphine was so burdened that they 
probably never drew any part of the rents, although the family 
continued to reside in the castle till about 1698. On 19th 
December 1679, Hugh Wallace, of Ingliston, W. S. who had 
accumulated in his person the whole debts burdening the es* 
tate, obtained a charter, under the Great Seal, of the Barony of 
Corstorphine, and his title was ratified by Lord Forrester in No- 
vember 169a On 26th July 1701, he sold the estate to Sir Ro- 
bert Dickson of Sornebeg, whose title was also ratified by William 
Lord Forrester and the Master of Forrester on 2d January 1703. 
Sir Robert Dickson of Inveresk succeeded to his father in May 
1712, and in the beginning of 1713, sold the estate to Sir James 
Dick of Prestonfield, in whose family it still remains. As this fa- 
mily had another mansion-house at Prestonfield, where they lived, 
there was no resident proprietor of Corstorphine after 1713; and 
in 1720, we find Sir Francis Grant, one of the Senators of the 
College of Justice, had taken a lease of the castle for a series of 
years, and resided there during the vacations of the Court 

The estate of Gogar was given by King Robert Bruce to his com- 
panion in arms, Alexander Seton, but how long he or his successors 
retained it does not appear. In 1409, Walter de Haliburton of Dir- 
leton disponed the lands and miln of Gogar to his brother, George 
de Haliburton, and his title was confirmed by a charter of Robert 
Duke of Albany on 11th May 1411. In 1516, the lands of Go- 
gar were held by Robert Logan of Restalrig, and they are since 
described as part of the barony of Restalrig. The Logans continued 
proprietors of part of the lands until the beginning of the seventeenth 
century, when Robert Logan of Restalrig, who was implicated in the 
Gowry conspiracy, sold them to Adam Cowper, one of the clerks 
of Session, whose title to them was ratified by Parliament on 17th 
February 1601. Sixteen oxgaugs of the lands of Gogar belonged 
formerly to a famjly of the name of Balfour, and were by them sold 
in 1555 to a wealthy churchman, Robert Richardson, vicar of Eck- 
ford in Roxburghshire, and afterwards Lord High Treasurer of 
Scotland, and Master of the Mint; at his death, in 1571, his son, 
Sir James Richardson of Smeaton, succeeded to his part of Go- 
gar, and it was afterwards sold by his son, James Richardson, 
to Adam Cowper, on 19th June 1604, who by this purchase ac- 
quired the whole barony of Gogar. The next proprietor was 



214 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

his SOD, John Cowper, who built the existing mansion-house of the 
estate in 1625 and 1626, as appears from the initials of himself 
and his wife, J. C. and H. S., which are carved above these dates 
on the front of the house. John Cowper was killed in the blow- 
ing up of Dunglas Castle, on 30th August 1640. His son, John 
Cowper, erected a monument to his memory in the Old Church- 
yard of Edinburgh, on which there was the following inscription, viz. 
" Joanni Cupero Gogarae Comarcho, patri suo charissimo ejusdem 
nominis filius moerens merenti poni curavit vixit annos 46. Obiit 
cum moltis aliis viris generosis de ecclesia nostra optime mentis^ 
apud Dunglas." John Cowper was created a Baronet of Nova 
Scotia in 1646. He was for many years an elder of the parish, 
and took a deep interest in every thing connected with the church. 
He joined James Lord Forrester in his opposition to Cromwell, 
and in consequence his rents were sequestrated. Sir John Cow- 
per executed an entail of the lands of Gogar, in favour of his 
daughter Mary, and her husband Thomas Chalmers, in 1685, 
but it was reduced at the instance of his creditors by the 
Court of Session in 1697. The estate was sold at a judicial 
sale in 1699, to Andrew Myreton, a wealthy merchant, who had 
previously acquired the adjoining lands of Leny, in Cramond pa- 
rish, and afterwards purchased East and West Craigs, and Mea- 
dowfield, part of the barony of Corstorphine, and erected the 
whole into the barony of Gogar in 1701. In the same year he 
was created a Baronet of Nova Scotia; He died in 1717, and 
left the barony to his son, Sir Robert Myreton, by whom it was 
enclosed and considerably improved. Sir Robert Myreton died 
at Gogar in December 1774, and was buried within the old church 
there. His only surviving daughter, Frances, was married to Sir 
William Augustus Cunningham of Livingston, Bart and their son 
David Cunningham, after his grandfather's death, succeeded to 
the estate, and in 1790 sold it for L. 37,000 to William Ramsay, 
Esq. of Barnton, whose grandson is now proprietor.* 

In 1809, about 92 acres of the estate of Gogar were sold to three 
separate feuars at the rate of 200 guineas per acre, and these feus 
now constitute the three villas of Gogar Park, Gogar Burn, and 
Hanlev. 

The other properties in this parish are Clermiston, and the two 

* Previous to the sale of Gogar to Mr Ramsay, Sir Grey Cowper, Bart. M. P. 
the heir*xnale of the family of Coirper of Gogar, made an offer for it which was re- 
vsed. 



CORSTORPHINE. 215 

estates of Ravelston and Saughton, which were united to the pa* 
rish in 1633. Clermiston formed a part of the barony of Cor- 
storphine until 1771, when it was sold by Sir Alexander Dick to 
William Alexander, merchant in Edinburgh, who feued four acres 
of it to Walter Scott, W. S., father of the famed Sir Walter Scott, 
and sold the remainder to Samuel Mitchelson, one of the Princi- 
pal Clerks of Session, who built the House of Clermiston in 1792, 
at the expense of L. 3000. Mr Mitchelson afterwards acquired 
the acres feued to Mr Scott, and continued proprietor until his 
death. His trustees sold the estate to George Robinson, Esq. W. S. 
in 1795, forL. 11,000 Sterling, and it was again sold in 1836 to 
Francis Jeffrey, Esq. one of the Senators of the College of Jus- 
3tice, the present proprietor, for L. 15,250. 

The estate of Ravelston, when separated from St Cuthbert^s 
parish, belonged to a branch of the family of Foulis of Colinton, 
who took the name of Primrose in the beginning of the eighteenth 
century, on succeeding to the estate of Dunipace in Stirlingshire. 
In 1726, Sir Archibald Primrose, a member of that family, sold 
this estate to Alexander Keith, writer in Edinburgh, who was de- 
scended from Alexander Keith of Pittendrum, the fourth son of 
William third Earl Mareschall. Ravelston is now possessed by 
Sir William Keith Murray of Ravelston and Ochtertyre, in right 
of his wife, Lady Keith Murray, daughter and heiress of the late 
Sir Alexander Keith. 

The estate of Saughton, when united to Corstorphine, was held 
by the family of Watson, who are still proprietors. They have 
not resided in the mansion-house of the estate since 1737, when 
they purchased the house and estate of Cammo, in Cramond pa- 
rish, which they named New Saughton. 

Besides these properties, there are three villas on the south side 
of Corstorphine Hill, viz. Belmont, formerly called Brucehill, 
Beechwood and Corstorphine Hill. Belmont, consisting of 57 
acres, 3 roods, and 20 falls of ground, was originally feued by 
Charles Bruce, glazier in Edinburgh, from John Dickie of Corstor- 
phine Hill. It was purchased in 1793 at a judicial sale by Major 
General David Dundas for L. 3820. After being held by several 
intervening proprietors, it was sold in 1827 to Lord Mackenzie, 
the present proprietor, for L. 7500. His Lordship has since erect- 
ed on it an elegant mansion-house. Beechwood House was built by 
Francis Scott, Esq. second son of Walter Scott of Harden in 1780. 
In 1786, he sold the villa to Colonel Alexander Leslie, for L. 5073, 



216 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

whose son sold it in 1795 for L. 4750. In 1797, it was again sold 
to Major- General David Dundas of Belmont, for L. 5030, and it 
now belongs to his descendant, Sir David Dundas. Corstorphine 
Hill was originally feued by Mr John Dickie, and was by him sold 
to David Johnston, brewer in Corstorphine, for L. 1300. In 1791, 
Mr Johnston sold this feu for L. 3500 to William Keith, Esq. ac- 
countant in Edinburgh, son of Alexander Keith, Esq. of Ravel- 
ston, who built the House of Corstorphine Hill in 1793w 

Earochial Registers. — It appears from the Presbytery records 
that a register of discipline was regularly kept in the parish in 
1598, but it was lost before 1692, for the records are fully enu- 
merated in the parish register of that year. The first entry in 
the existing register of discipline is dated 4th Jauuary 1646. 
This record is regularly continued from that date to May 1689, 
with the exception of the period when the English army were in 
the parish, from 1st September 1650 to the beginning of 1652, 
and from 1658 to 1665, the time of the troubles for non-confor- 
mity. From May. 1689, there are no entries till 5th May 1692, 
after which date it is regularly kept until 1768, from which pe*- 
riod it contains few entries until 1794. The register of baptisms 
commences on 5th January 1634, and the register of marriages in 
June 1665. There is also a register of collections and distribu- 
tions, which commences in January 1646. The only account of 
this parish of which we are aware is a manuscript by Mr Wood, 
author of the History of the Parish of Cramond, containing 70 
folio pages, compiled towards the end of the last century, and 
consisting chiefly of genealogical notices of the principal families 
who have resided in the parish. It is in possession of the author's 
family.* 

Antiquities. — At the time of the erection of the House of Go- 
garburn in 1811, some Roman remains were discovered in dig- 
ging for the foundation, and in a gravel-pit opened in the park to 
the south of the house. These remains were a Roman dagger or 
sword, with parts of the scabbard belonging to it, a fibula or clasp, 
used by the Romans for fixing belts, &c and a gold ring, very thin 
and hollow. They are now deposited in the private museum of 
Mrs Thomson, Forth Street, Edinburgh, the relict of the first pro- 
prietor of Gogarburn. 

When Corstorphine Castle, the ancient residence of the For- 

* Mr Wood has also left MS. notices of the adjoining parislies of Kirkliston and 
Dalmcny. 

3 



CORSTORPHINE. 217 

resters, was levelled with the ground, about fifty years ago, some of 
the workmen engaged, when digging near the house, discovered a 
deposit of gold and silver coins. Oatman Barclay, their overseer, 
distributed some part of the treasure among them, and retained 
the rest for his own use. The quantity he obtained was of so 
much value that he immediately left his employment, and continu- 
ed to maintain himself on the proceeds of the discovery while he 
lived. This conduct led to suspicion, and he was imprisoned, with 
the view of compelling him to give up what he had found, but the 
attempt was unsuccessful, for no portion of the treasure was traced 
except a few foreign coins which he had sold to a jeweller in Edin** 
burgh. There is in the custody of the schoolmaster a curious old 
box, formed out of a piece of excavated^ oak-wood, having a lid in 
which there is a slit for the admission of money, which was fixed 
by large iron hinges. It has double locks and two key holes, but 
the padlock has been broken off, and the hinges are also destroyed. 
This box formerly had a broad belt attached to it, by which it was 
slung to the breast of the begging rnonk^ and the object of the two 
keys evidently was to secure its contents for the use of the colle- 
giate establishment with which he was connected. In the church- 
yard of Gogar there is a large circular basin of freestone, used as 
the depository of the holy water in times of Popery. 

Stone Coffins.'^From the year 1809 down to 1835, many stone 
coffins have been at various times found on the lands of Gogar, 
particularly towards the western side of the field formerly called 
" The Flashes," on which the villa of Hanley is now built.* As 
no accurate account can now be given of those discovered prior to 
1834, we shall confine our description to those found at that pe* 
riod and in 1835. 

In the autumn of 1834, when the House of Hanley was in the 
course of being built, an excavation was made on the highest part 
of the rising ground, about 100 yards to the north-east of the house, 
out of which sand was taken for the use of the building. This ex- 
cavation when completed was 60 feet in length and 35 feet in 
breadth. In this space, there was laid open and removed about 
two dozen stone coffins, of a very simple construction. They all 
lay east and west, at a depth of only 13 inches from the surface, 
and were constructed of from five to eight water-worn flag stones, 
similar to those which form the bed of the river Almond, near 

* In consequence of these remains^ this villa, when originally feucd, was named 
Gogar Camp. 



218 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Newbridge. Their shape was as nearly that of a modern wooden 
coffin as the inflexible nature of the materials would admit. Both 
ends of the coffin were of single stones, and the sides were some* 
times also of single stones, in which case, the one end of the coffin 
was broader than the other ; but more frequently the sides were 
formed of four separate stones, and then the coffin bulged out in the 
middle. The bodies seem generally to have been laid on the bare 
gravel or on a thin plate of clay-slate, and the tops or covers were 
all of this substance, except one or two, where both the bottom 
and cover were formed of flag-stones. 

From the nature of the soil, which is a loose gravel, and from 
the slightness of the covers, few of the coffins were in a perfect 
state when laid open. The gravel had found its way through the 
crevices, or the lid had been broken by the plough from its proxi- 
mity to the surface, and the bones were mixed with gravel. In 
some, however, the entire skeletons remained in a state of good 
preservation. The length of the coffins was from 5 to 6 feet, and 
the breadth from 1 foot to 9 inches. 

A little to the east of the first excavation, in digging pits to 
plant evergreens, several additional coffins of the same construction 
were exposed, the distance between each being about 6 feet Ano- 
ther space of about 120 feet by 60, was excavated in the park, 
about fifty yards to the north of the first excavation, and in it many 
similar remains were discovered. Some of the workmen said that 
here fourteen coffins were laid open in one day, and reckoned the 
whole number taken out of this space at about four dozen, but 
others stated it at about two dozen. All agreed that, besides the 
coffins in this space, there was found a great number of bones 
huddled together, as if buried in a pit without any coffin. One 
coffin was said to have contained two skeletons, or at least more 
than two thigh bones, and was of a much larger construction than 
the rest; while another was only 2^ feet in length. In some 
places the coffins were close together ; indeed, a workman described 
three as so close, that the side stones of the middle one formed 
part of the two others. From this it would appear that three 
bodies at least were buried at the same time. 

Towards the end of October 1835, another excavation was made 
at Hanley, behind the garden, about 100 yards to the west of the 
first excavation. The space here laid open was 50 feet in lengthy 
and in it six coffins were found, four lying together at- one corner. 

The whole space over which these coffins are found may extend 



CORSTORPHINE. 219 

to about 250 yards in length, and upwards of 50 yards in breadth. 
Single coffins are likewise found in other parts of the villa of Han- 
ley, and a few are said to have been found on the adjoining villa 
of Gogarburn. No relics of any kind were found either within or 
near any of the coffins. Remains of an exactly similar description 
were discovered in 1822, in the neighbouring parish of Cramond, 
which are described in Vol. iii. p. 40 of the Transactions of the 
Society of Scottish Antiquaries. 

At first sight the name of stone coffins would favour the suppo- 
sition that these remains are of great antiquity, but as neither the 
aborigines, nor any of the other races who have inhabited or visit- 
ed this part of the country in early times, used this manner of 
burying their dead, their origin must be looked for within the range 
of Scottish history. It has accordingly been supposed that this 
is merely the old parish burying-ground ; but the site of the village 
and kirk of Gogar, as existing at the Reformation, is at the distance 
of upwards of a quarter of a mile from this locality, the Gogar- 
burn running between, and there is no reason to believe that the 
position of the kirk had been altered. after the thirteenth century; 
it seems, therefore, not likely that this was a burying-ground attach- 
ed to it. On the other hand, however, there are no events noticed 
in history, or handed down by tradition, sufficient to account for so 
many burials. The only battle we can trace to have taken place 
in this neighbourhood is the Gogar fight, on 27th August 1650, 
which has been already briefly described, but it only lasted from 
3 to 6 o'clock p. M. of that day, and the deaths on both sides pro- 
bably did not amount to 100 men. From the descriptions of this 
fight, contained in Hodgson's Memoirs, and in the Letters of 
Cromwell and his officers, printed in the same volume, this field 
appears at that period to have been full of bogs, and in a very wild 
' and uncultivated state ; indeed, it was for this very reason that Ge- 
neral Leslie is said to have chosen it for his encampment. After 
this engagement it is not unlikely that the dead would be interred 
where they fell, and no more natural mode of interment could have 
been adopted than to collect the flag stones from the bed of the 
river Almond, a distance of 1| mile, and form them into coffins. 
This is rendered more probable when it is considered that no wood 
existed here at that period, and that when it was required, even in 
small quantities, it was always procured from Leith, as appears 
from several entries in the parish register about 1652. This hy- 
pothesis, perhaps, would not account for a cemetery so extensive, 



L.1789 





1391 





1145 





485 15 





69 





262 5 





105 17 


7 


82 2 


I 


77 





60 8 


11 


48 14 





48 





34 9 


6 


30 10 






220 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

bot when once used as a burying-ground, it may have been con* 
tinued in use as such during the years 1650 and 1651, while the 
English were in the parish ; or its use may have commenced at the 
earlier period of the trouble or plague of 1645, which is referred 
to in the parish register as having been so severe a scourge that 
the church was closed, and all work at a stand while it lasted; and 
it may have been added to after the fight and during the invasion. 
Land'oumers and valued Rent : — 

William Ramsay Watson of Saughlon, 
Sir Robert Keith Dick of Corstorphine, 
William Ramsay Ramsay of Gogar, 
Lady Keith Murray of Ravelston, 

Do. of Corstorphine Hill, 

Lord Jeffrey of Clermiston, 
John Piper of East Craigs, 

John Thomson of Gogarburn , . . . 

Sir David Dundas of Beech wood, 
James M. Melville of Hanley, 
Dr David Johnston, 
Lord Mackenzie of Belmont, 
Claud Muirhead of Gogarpark, 
James Dunsmure, Esq., • . 

L.5579 2 1 
And ten other minor heritors. 

III. — Population. 
The following is the population of the parish at various periods, 

viz. 

In 1755, . 995 

1791, . 1037 
ISbl, . 840 

1811, . 1159 572 males. 587 females. 

1821, .1321 656 .665 

1831, . 1461 713 . 748 

Number of families in the parish, .... 290 

chiefly employed in agriculture, . . 118 

in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, . 41 

IV. — Industry. 
The number of ploughgates in the parish is 52, — each plough* 

gate, it is understood, contains 50 acres, and this makes the num- 
ber 2600 acres : To which may be added : the glebe and minister's 
garden, 9 acres ; schoolhouse and garden, 2 acres ; Mr Dunsmure's 
property, 6 acres ; other grounds in and about the village, 32 acres ; 
making the whole arable land, 2649 acres. Neither the plantations 
nor roads are included in this measurement 

Ilent. — The valued rent of the parish is L. 5663 Scots, and the 
real rent of the parish is from L. 7000 to L. 8000 Sterling. 

The number of farms does not exceed 17, and they are of 
moderate size. Horses alone are now employed in agriculture, 



CORSTORPHINE. 221 

although at the period of the last Statistical Account, oxen were 
used on one or more of the ferms. 

The rotation of the crops and management of the farms are so 
similar to the practice in other parishes in the county, in the ac* 
counts of which they are fully described, that it is quite unneces- 
sary to enlarge on them here. 

Horticulture, — The village of Corstorphine, like other ancient 
ecclesiastical stations, is surrounded by rich plots of garden ground, 
which have been long in a high state of- cultivation. Part of this 
ground is let at L. 8 per acre, and on it great quantities^of fruit, 
strawberries, and vegetables, areproducedfor the Edinburgh market. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Villages. — There were formerly two villages in this parish — 

Corstorphine and Gogar ; the latter, however, now does not de- 
serve the name. JCorstorphine towards the end of the last cen- 
tury, and beginning of the present, was a fashionable summer re- 
sidence for the inhabitants of Edinburgh, having its annual balls 
and 6ther amusements. The principal attraction to it at that period 
was the mineral spring before described. Besides these summer visi- 
tors, there were other strangers who chose Corstorphine for their re* 
sidence. These were young men of Norwegian and Swedish fami- 
lies, who were boarded with the schoolmaster of the parish. When 
Mr Simpson, the present schoolmaster, was appointed, in 1812, 
he found it necessary to acquire the Norwegian and Swedish lan- 
guages, and he continued to have under his charge several Nor- 
wegian boarders, until the present heavy duty was imposed on Bal- 
tic timber, after which period the intercourse between this part of 
the country and Norway ceased. 

The appearance of tlie village of Corstorphine has been great- 
ly improved since the date of the last Statistical Account, by the 
erection of a handsome villa, and a number of neat cottages, in 
1832, by the late David Johnston, Esq. merchant in Gibraltar, — a 
native of the village, who had acquired a fortune abroad, and 
spent the last years of his life in superintending these improve- 
ments. The healthiness of the climate, and this additional ac- 
commodation, has again made Corstorphine a resort for country 
quarters during the summer season ; and were it thoroughly drain- 
ed, as it might be at a very trifling expense, no situation in the vi« 
cinity of Edinburgh would be superior to it, either for salubrity or 
convenience of access. 

The principal traffic carried on in Corstorphine is the purchase 



222 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

and sale of hay and potatoes. Of other trades there are as (oU 
lows, viz. 3 bakers, 1 flesher, 8 grocers, 9 spirit dealers, 2 wrights, 
2 blacksmiths, 4 tailors with jouraeynien, 2 shoemakers with 
ditto. 

The village of Gogar is said to have contained 300 inhabitants 
at one time. About sixty years ago, among its constant residen- 
ters were, a watchmaker, flesher, baker, blacksmith, and wright, 
besides the schoolmaster. Now the three last, and two or three 
families of farm-servants, constitute its whole population. In 1838, 
it contained, including the farm-steading, only 7 families, compos- 
ed of 24 individuals. 

There are two other small villages in the parish ; the one, Stan- 
hope-mills, on the estate of Saughton, deriving its name from 
Janet Stanhope, wife of Richard Watson, Esq. of Saughton, who 
lived about 1550, contains 20 families, consisting of 67 indivi- 
duals; and the other, Four-mile*hill, contains. 12 families of 49 
individuals. In each at present there is a resident schoolmaster. 

There is an old house in Stanhope-mill, having above the 
door the arms and initials of Patrick Elphingston, with the date 
1623, and the words ^' Blisit be God for all his giftis.'* One of 
the rooms has a circular roof, highly ornamented, and the Royal 
arms on the wall, with the initials C : R : 2d. 

Means of Communication, — We have already mentioned, that 
there was a regular conveyance eight or nine times every week- 
day, and four times every Sunday, between Corstorphine and Edin- 
burgh, during the summer and autumn of 1749. The fare by 
this conveyance was 6d. for each person. To show the populari- 
ty of Corstorphine at that period in comparison with other jplaces 
now more resorted to, we may mention, that, in the same year, 
a stage-coach went and returned thrice every day from Edin- 
burgh to Musselburgh, the fare being 9d. ; while the regular stage- 
coach to Glasgow went on Monday and Thursday, and returned 
on Tuesday and Friday, every person paying 9s. of fare, and be- 
ing allowed to take with him a stone weight of baggage.* As the 
highway which leads from Edinburgh to Glasgow, and also to 
Falkirk and Stirling, passes through the village, the means of 
communication are very frequent, although there is not now sdiy 
coach from (Corstorphine to Edinburgh. Two years ago an at- 
tempt was made to establish* one, but it was only continued for 
one season. 

* Scots Magazine, Vol. zi. 



COIISTORPHINE. 223 

Ecclesiastical History and State — First Chapel arid Parish Church. 
— As early as the reign of David L, we have notices of the existence ' 
of a chapel attached to the manor of Corstorphine and subordinate to 
the kirk of St Cuthberts. In a charter by that monarch, to the Abbey 
of Holyroodhouse, dated in 1 128, he bestows on the canons of the 
abbey, the kirk of St Cuthberts, along with the Chapel of Crostor- 
fin, * and two bovates and six acres of land. This chapel is also 
noticed in the reign of Alexander II., when David le Mareschall 
acquired two acres of ground belonging to it, which lay adjoining 
to his estate of Crostorfin. It was afterwards converted into, or 
superseded by, a parish church. 

In the register of the Great Seal, the following donations to 
this church are mentioned and confirmed by royal charters, viz. 
Istj a donation in November 1465, by John Marshall, one of the 
chaplains of the Collegiate Church of Corstorphine, of certain tene- 
ments under the Castle wall of Edinburgh, for the maintenance 
of a chaplain to serve at the altar of the Holy Trinity in the pa- 
rish church ; and, 2<f, a donation, in September 1473, by William 
de Camera, Vic^r of Kirkurd, of property in the village of Cor- 
storphine, and annual rents, amounting to 11 merks 18s. 4d. Scots, 
payable from several tenements in Edinburgh, for the support of 
a secular chaplain to serve at the altar of St Ann in the parish 
church. The duty of this secular chaplain, as <lescribed in the 
Crown charter, is very characteristic of the times. He was to attend 
the altar, and perform daily masses there, for the safety, of the soul 
of the late King James II., — for the healthful state of King James 
III. — for the safety of the souls of their royal predecessors and suc- 
cessors, and of Sir Alexander Forrester of Corstorphine, — for the 
healthful state of Archibald Forrester of Corstorphine, and for the 
safety of the souls of his predecessors and successors — for the safety 
of the souls of the father and mother of the donor, William de 
Camera, and his ancestors and successors, — also of all to whom he 
was indebted, or from whom he had ever received any thing while 
in this world, — and lastly, for the souls of all the faithful dead. The 
patronage of this chaplainry after the founder's death is declared, 
to belong to the proprietor of Corstorphine and his heirs.-)* 

Second Chapel. — Towards the close of the fourteenth century, 
Sir Adam Forrester of Corstorphine erected in the vicinity of 
the parish church, another chapel, which was dedicated to St 

* Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 787, and Cart, of Holyroodhouse. 
t MS. Keg. Mag. S]gil. 



224 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

John the Baptist, and he founded three chaplainries in it, and paid 
to the chaplains during his life L. 24 Scots yearly.. After his 
death, this foundation was confirmed by a charter of King James 
1.5 dated 25th February 1425, which gives to Sir John Forrester 
and his heirs, the right to present fit persons as chaplains to the 
Bishop of St Andrews, who was to be bound to admit them to the 
benefice. And in order to provide for their personal residence, 
which by the charter is declared imperative, Sir John^ assigned 
to the chaplains three acres of ground in the village of Corstor- 
phine, for manses, with pasturage for three horses, and three cows 
with their followers of one year old. 

Other two chaplainries were founded by Dame Margaret For- 
rester, relict of Sir Adam Forrester, in the same chapel, and an- 
nual rents, amounting to L. 28, Ids. 4d. Scots, payable from pro« 
perty in Edinburgh, Leith, and Corstorphine, were mortified for 
the support of the chaplains. 

Collegiate Church. — In the course of the same year, 1429, 
Sir John Forrester founded a Provostry or collegiate church in 
the kirk-yard of the then existing parish church of. Corstorphine. 
The second chapel was probably built into this collegiate churchy 
for there is no mention of its separate existence after the year 1429, 
and they were both dedicated to the same patron saint, St John 
the Baptist. The original foundation of the collegiate church 
was for five prebendaries, of whom one was to be called the Pro- 
vost, and two boys ; and for their maintenance, Sir John consign- 
ed the annual rents of 120 ducats of gold, on condition that he 
and his successors should have the patronage of these appoint* 
ments, and on the understanding, that, if the kirk of Ratho were 
united to the provostry, other four or five prebendaries should be 
added to that establishment, and maintained out of the fruits of 
the benefice of Ratho. Pope Eugenius IV. sanctioned this foun- 
dation by a^ Bull, in which he directed the Abbot of Holyroodhouse, 
as his apostolic vicar, to ascertiiin whether the foundation and con* 
signation had been made in terms of the original grant ; and on 
being satisfied on these points, to unite and incorporate the church 
of Ratho, with all its rights,'emoluments, and pertinents, to the col- 
lege for ever.* 

In 1444, Sir John Forrester made a second application to the 
Pope, in which he stated that the emoluments of the Collegiate 

* See Foundation Charter in Sir Lewis Stewart's Collections, p. 108, in Advo- 
cates* Library. 



CORSTORPHINE. 225 

Church were not sufficient for the comfortable maintenance of ten 
prebendaries and two boys, and prayed that the number might be 
restricted to nine. In consequence of this application, Pope 
Eugenius issued another bull, limiting the number of prebendaries 
to nine. This bull is dated 15th July 1444, and was confirmed 
and carried into effect by James Kennedy, Bishop of St Andrews, 
who proceeded in virtue of it to arrange and distribute the proper- 
ty of the Collegiate Church among its several office-bearers, by a 
charter dated SOth October 1444.* This division is as follows, viz. 

To the Provost, the church of Clerkington, the teinds of Ratho, 
as well south as north, the teinds of Rolshaw (probably Roding- 
law), and six merks Scots, at two terms in the year, out of the com- 
mon funds of the college. 

And to the eight prebendaries or chaplains, as follows, viz. 

To the two chaplains of Gogar and Addistown, the teinds of 
upper Gogar and Addistown, with ten merks Scot^ half yearly, out 
of the common purse. 

To the two chaplains of Haltoun and Dalmahoy, the teinds of 
Haltoun and Dalmahoy, with ten merks Scots half yearly, out of 
the common purse. 

To the two chaplains of Boningtoun and Plet, the teinds of 
Boningtoun and Plet (now Ratho Hall and Hillwood), with ten 
merks Scots, "half yearly, out of the common ptirse. 

To the two chaplains of Nortoun and Byres, the teinds of 
Nortoun and Byres, (now Ratho Byres,) with ten merks Scots, 
half yearly, out of the common purse. And to the two boys in the 
said college, 24 bolls of usual victual, and L. 3 yearly, from the com- 
mon purse, to be equally divided between them. 

And for the stipend of the vicar and* the burdens of the kirk of 
Ratho, maintenance of the fabric, expense of bread and wine for 
the sacrament, of the altar, lights, cups, books, and other ornaments 
of the chaplainries and college, L. 12 from rents mortified by Sir 
John Forrester, besides the fruits of the altarage of the kirk of 
Ratho, and 3 chalders of victual out of the teinds, above appropri- 
ated to the provost of the college.* 

It is interesting to find this division of the Collegiate Church cor- 
roborated in the charter confirming the donation by the vicar of 
Kirkurd, to the parish kirk, already quoted, dated 27th September 
1473, in which the whole establishment of one provost and eight 

• Sir L. Stewart's Coll. f Ibid. 

EDINBURGH. P 



226 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

chaplains are mentioned as witnesses, the names being as follows, 
viz. Nicol Bannachtyne, provost ; Alexander Story, John Cra- 
mound, Hector Story, James de Hales, Andrew Gawmok, William 
Forrester, David Swintoun, and Malcolm Chepman, chaplains.* 

In the foundation charter, the annual value of the church of Ra- 
the is said not to exceed L. 50 Sterling, according to common esti- 
mation. The four prebends, instituted in consequence of the 
union of this church with the college, were Haltoun, Dalmahoy, 
Boningtoun, and Plet, and as the vicarage of Ratho had been 
formerly in the gift of the Bishop of St Andrews, when the union 
took place, he and his successors obtained a right to present alter- 
nately, /?er vicesy with the family of Forrester, to these four pre-" 
bends, while the Forresters continued to enjoy the sole patronage 
of all the other livings on the establishment 

In December 1475, Hugh Bar, a burgess of Edinburgh, found- 
ed an additional diaplainry, at the altar of the Holy Trinity, in the 
Collegiate Church. This chaplain, in addition to the perform- 
ances of daily masses for the souls of the King and Queen, the 
Lords of the Manor, and the founder's own mother and wife, and of 
all the faithful dead, was specially directed, at the commencement 
of each season of Lent, to exhort the people to say one pater dos« 
ter, and the salutation of the angel to the Virgin Mary for the souls 
of the same persons. This chaplainry was also in the gift of the 
Forresters after the death of the founder.-f* 

Besides the above possessions, the parish kirk of Corstorphine, 
with its chaplainries, was afterwards united to the Collegiate Church, 
but the period when this happened is not known. 

Possessing such revenues as we have enumerated, this Collegiate 
Church must have been regarded as an establishment of consider- 
able importance, and, accordingly, we find among its provosts men 
of eminence and influence. Some of those whose names have been 
handed down to posterity we shall briefly notice. 

The first provost was Nicol Bannatyne, who presided over the 
establishment from the year 1429 down to his death, which hap- 
pened after 1473. He was buried within the church, as appears 
from a Latin inscription, which is afterwards inserted. 

Among the after provosts, the most noted were Robert Cairn- 
cross, about 1520, and James Scott in 1554. 

Robert Cairncross was descended from an ancient family in For- 
farshire. Having passed through the usual classes at one of the 

* MSS. Reg. Mag. Sigil. f ^^^^' 



COnSTOttPHlNE. 227 

Scotch Universities, he applied himself to the study of divinity, and, 
soon after entering the church, he was appointed provost of Cor- 
storphine ; a place, says Crawford, of considerable dignity and re- 
venue. He was then advanced to be one of the King's chaplains, 
and, by his talent and subserviency to his royal master, he raised 
himself to offices, both civil and ecclesiastical, of great trust and in« 
fluenee. In 1528, he was made Lord High Treasurer, afterwards 
a Lord of Session, then Abbot of Holyroodhouse, which he is said 
to have obtained as the result of a wager he took with King James V. 
He was next promoted to be Bishop of Ross, and received in 
commendam the Abbacy of Fearn. He seems to have been a cor- 
rupt and dissolute man, and to have aided in no small degree 
in exciting popular detestation against the church to which he 
belonged. Shortly before his death, which happened in 1544, 
ho obtained letters of legitimation in favour of his three natural 
children, to enable them to succeed to the large fortune he had 
amassed. 

James Scott was brother of Sir Alexander Scott, Vice- Register 
of Scotland in the reign of James V. He was bred to the church, 
and, soon after entering into holy orders, was preferred to the 
office of Provost of Corstorphine. While Provost, he is said to 
have built a house or manse near the collegiate church, for the 
use of himself and his successors in office, and placed on it his 
coat of arms, from which it appears that he was related to the 
family of Buccleuch.* He was a man of great learning and in- 
tegrity, and from his own acquirements, and the respect which 
King James cherished for the memory of his relative the Regis- 
ter, he was promoted to be Clerk to the Treasury, and afterwards 
made a Lord of Session. 

The last Provost was Alexander M'Gill, who was probably 
a layman, and held the office in commendam. He quarrelled 
with the Presbytery of Edinburgh in 1601, refusing obedience to 
some of their orders, and, in consequence, both he and his wife, 
who had absented herself from church for a long period, were or- 
dered to make public confession, on pain of excommunication. 
For a long time they resisted this order, till Mr Arthur, minister 
of Corstorphine, actually commenced the process of excommuni- 
cation, going through all the censures except the last prayer, which 

* Nisbet*8 Heraldry, Vol. ii. The house said to have belonged to the provasts is 
a large house adjoining to the church.yard at the south-west corner, which has the 
initials A. S. Poes engraved on it, and a coat armorial partly defaced. 



228 KDI^BURGUSHIRE. 

he delayed for a week, intimating thai he would complete the re- 
mainder, unless appearance was made on the following Sabbath. 
This threat had the desired effect, and on 1st February 1602, the 
Provost ^* compeirit and satisfied the congregation in all points/' 
Shortly afterwards, Isobel Carbeth, his wife, ^* compeirit before 
the Presbytery, and they having shairply rebukit her, she upon 
her knees confessit her sin, in not repairing to the kirk for a year 
and a-half, and promisit to amend, qlk humiliation and promise 
the minister was directed to intimate on the following Sabbath in 
the Kirk of Corstorphine/'* 

Mr Alexander M^Gill resided in the house adjoining the col- 
legiate church, built by one of his predecessors. He is a witness 
to a sasine of lands in the parish of Cramond, on 17th July 1606. 

Mr Wood quotes two manuscript rentals,f but without giving 
their dates, or mentioning where they are to be found, in both of 
which valuations of the provostry are contained. 

In the first, which he calls a carefully compiled Manuscript Ac- 
count of Benefices, Praepositura de Corstorphin is rated at L. 46, 
lOs. dd. ; and the prebends are stated as eight in number, viz. 
Bonytoune, Plat, Norton, Ratho Byres, Overgogar, Halderstoun, 
*Dalmahoy, and Haltoun. The second, which he calls " A Ma- 
nuscript Roll and Rental of Small Benefices," rates the provostry 
at 500 merks, and separately values the eight prebends of Half 
Halton, Half Dalmahoy, Half Gogar, Half Addiston, Half Nor- 
ton, Half Byres, Half Bonytoune, and Half Piatt, at 450 merks, 
leaving 50 merks for the provost's salary. 

In the Books of Collections of the Thirds, the revenues of the 
collegiate church after the Reformation are said to have consisted 
of the teinds of Ratho and parsonage of Clerkington, and are es- 
timated in money at L. 122, 13s. 4d. Scots. 

At the Reformation, when church property was in general an- 
nexed to the Crown, an exception was made in favour of provost- 
ries and other endowments, which had been originally founded by 
private individuals for their own ease and spiritual advantage, and 
the existing patrons were ^en allowed either to dispose of their 
revenues to bursars in the universities, or to apply them to any 
other purposes consonant with the principles and spirit of the Re- 
formation ;:( accordingly, we find Sir George Forrester, in 1621, 

* Presbytery Register, Vol. iii. f Wood's M S. History of Corstorphine. 

I The patronage and part of the teinds of Ratho were sold by James Lord For- 
resterin 1670 to Charles Maitland of Hstton. See p. 24. 



CORSTORPHINE. 229 

applying to Parliament for authority to separate the parish church 
of Corstorphine^ with manse, glebe, teinds, fruits, and rent of the 
same from the provostry, and to unite the four prebends of the 
provostry (t. e* the teiud sheaves of Ratho,) to the parish kirk, but 
to reserve a certain sum ^^ to be payit by the ministers of Corstor- 
phine out of these revenues to the actual minister of Ratho." 

A few years afterwards, when more enlightened opinions became 
prevalent, regarding the application of church property, another, 
act of Parliament was obtained by Sir George, then Lord For- 
rester, dissolving the four prebends, the whole .revenues of which 
were drawn from lands situated in the parish of Ratho, from 
the parish church of Corstorphine, as *' prejudicial to the kirk of 
Ratho, and repugnant to the common course and order intended 
for the plantation of kirks, whereby it is thoug)it fit that each mi- 
nister sail receive competent maintenance out of the teinds of his 
own parish.'' 

After this separation, the sole remaining possession of the Pro- 
vostry was the parsonage of Clerkington, which, in a manuscript 
in the Advocates' Library, is valued in 1625 at L.27, 10s. 8d. 
In 1*634, the Provost and first prebendary, with the consent of the 
patron and other prebendaries, dissolved the collegiate church, 
and separated from it this parsonage, and, in 1641, Parliament 
confirmed the dissolution, annexing the four prebends to the 
estate of Dalmahoy, and the parsonage to the estate of Clerking- 
ton. 

Parish Church. — We have hitherto referred to the parish church 
as existing previous to the religious establishments founded by the 
family of Forrester. At first it belonged to the Abbey of Holy- 
foodhouse, and was connected with the church of St Cuthberts. 
It was afterwards attached to the collegiate church of Corstor- 
phine, while that establishment remained in efiiciency, but was 
separated from it at the commencement of the Reformation. 

The first Protestant teacher in Corstorphine was Walter Cow- 
per, reader, whose name is mentioned in the Register of ministers, 
exhorters, and readers, after the Reformation, as having died in 
November 1570. 

From 1570 down to 1587, there was no Protestant clergymen 
in Corstorphine, but on 7th March 1587, Sir James Forrester of 
Corstorphine and the remanent parishioners of that parish, ap- 
plied to the Presbytery of Edinburgh to recognize the church of 
Corstorphine as a proper parish church, praying that they sHpuld 



230 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

not be " compellit to hant (frequent) any other paroch kirk nor 
their awin, qlk had been fundit of auld to yt effect." On re- 
ceiving this application, the Presbytery ordained " the Abbot of 
Halierudhouse, the ministers and elders of St Cuthberts, and all 
others having interest, to connpear before them the following day, 
and declare whether they had anything to object to this supplica- 
tion, but none having compeared, the Presbyterie directed Sir 
James Forrester to lay before them all the auld fundations, rights, 
and papers, instructing that the church of Corstorphine was for- 
merly a. parish chijrch." 

Sir James Forrester accordingly produced the papal bulls and 
other rights ia his possession, at a meeting of Presbytery held on 
19th March 1587, when they were " examined and advycit upon by 
the brethren of the Presbytery, who found that the kirk of Cor- 
storphine was of auld a paroch kirk, interponed their authority to, 
and authorized the same accordingly, and they farther ordained a 
supplication to be made to the Lord's modifiers of ministers' sti- 
pends, to assign a stipend out of the thirds of Halierudhouse to 
the said kirk. The first stipend must have been very small, for 
its inadequacy was for many years afterwards a subject of frequent 
complaint, and neither manse nor glebe were then designed to the 
minister, who lived in a house in the village belonging to Sir James 
Forrester."* 

It is probable that, within two or three years after this decision 
of the Presbytery, a clergyman was appointed to Corstorphine, 
but as there is a blank in register of the Presbytery from 1589 to 
1591, the exact period of this settlement cannot be ascertained. 
In February 1 589, the Laird of Corstorphine was a commissioner 
of Assembly, which makes it probable that the church then had a 
minister. 

On 6th June 1591, there was a visitation of Corstorphine and 
Gogar by certain members of the Presbytery, who reported that 
*^ in the minister of Corstorphine they fand nathing sclanderous, 
and all things in the kirk they fand in a good state." And as 
concerning the kirk of Gogar, " they thought good, it being so small 
a congregation, and syk near to Corstorphine, that it should be 
joinit 'thereto, in which opinion the brethren of the Presbytery ac- 
quiesced." 

Notwithstanding the favourable opinion of the Presbytery, the 

• Presbytery Regis Jcr, Vol. i. -f Ibid. 



COnSTOUPHlNE. 231 

union of the parishes of Gogar and Corstorphine was not carried 
into effect for several years after this period. 

In August 1598, the Presbytery appointed visitations of both 
churches, with the special object of bringing about this union. 
On this occasion the Laird of Corstorphine, in nan^e of the parish- 
ioners, in addition to Gogar, craved the Presbytery to unite to 
Corstorphine the estates of Saughton, Saughtonhall, and Brum- 
houses. From the reports of these visitations, it appears that the 
church of Corstorphine had then a minister, elders, and deacons, 
while the church of Gogar had merely a reader, who resided in 
Edinburgh. After these preliminary examinations, the presbytery, 
on 9th January 1599, proposed a temporary union of the parishes, 
and having obtained the concurrence of the three leading heritors 
of Gogar, they next proceeded to carry their proposal into effect, 
by transferring the reader from Gogar to Corstorphine, and di- 
recting the minister to preach alternately at Gogar and Corstor- 
phine per vices. This arrangement was not satisfactory to either 
parish, but it was enforced by the authority of the Presbytery, 
and every remonstrance against it was met by a promise to sanc- 
tion separate charges, whenever ample provisions should be made 
for the maintenance of separate clergymen. 

In the beginning of 1600, the Presbytery appointed two of their 
number Commissioners to enquire at the Abbot of Holyroodhouse, 
what provision he was willing to make for the " kirk of Corstor- 
phine, as ane of the kirks of his abbacy.*' The only result of 
this enquiry was an explanation that the " teinds of the kirk had 
been set in 1597, for twenty-two years for the tack duty of L. 40 
per annum, and under the burden of sustaining and upholding the 
queir, and reserving the manse and gleib to the minister." 

In April 1602, the parishioners of Corstorphine agreed to con- 
tribute a sum of L. 30 additional, yearly, to the stipend of their 
clergyman, on condition of his confining his ministrations to Cor- 
storphine church, and this agreement was acceded to by the pa- 
rishioners of Gogar, and enforced by the Presbytery, on the under- 
standing that the parishioners were to have " the benefit of the kirk 
of Corstorphine until they should be in a situation to provide a mi- 
nister for themselves.* This time, however, never arrived, and 
the arrangement then made has never since been disturbed. 

On the establishment of the Bishoprick of Edinburgh in Sep- 

• Presbytery Register, Vol. iii. 



232 EDINBUUGHSHIEE. 

tember 1683, St Cuthbert's and Corstorphine churches were unit* 
ed to it, but this connexion was annulled in 1638^ and after being 
restored in 1662, was finally dissolved on the re-establishment of 
Presbytery in 1689. 

Church and Monuments. — In Popish times, the fabric of the 
parish church was maintained, as well as that of the collegiate 
church, a separate set of priests and chaplains officiating in each ; 
and it seems probable that the parish church was used at the be- 
ginning of the Reformation by the reader, and first Protestant 
clergyman ; for in the tack of the teinds of the kirk of Corstorphine 
in 1597, there is an express stipulation on the lessee, Henry For- 
rester, to sustain and uphold the quire of the parish kirk. In the 
beginning of the next century, however, the collegiate church was 
occupied by the parish minister ; and we find among the first en- 
tries in the parish register, under date 3d May 1646, an order 
given by the kirk-session, for taking down the old parish kirL* 
Since that period, the collegiate church has always been used as 
the parish church, and has, from time to time, been repaired and 
altered as the occasion required. 

Previous to the last repair, the church was of the form of a 
Calvary cross, with a projection to the north at the bottom or east 
end, and a spire and low-roofed house, now used as a session-house 
or vestry, at the west end. The north arm of this cross had been 
added during the last century by the proprietor of Saughtonhall ; 
the rest of the building was ancient, and had the original roof of 
compact stone. 

When the church was repaired, the Saughtonhall aisle was 
taken down, and another erected in a style which corresponds bet* 
ter with the southern aisle, and, at the same time, the roof of about 
two-thirds of the building was removed, and a slated double roof 
erected in its place, of the same height as the roof of the southern 
aisle, which was considerably lower than the original roof of the prin- 
cipal building. This altered portion and the southern aisle consti- 
tute the present church, while the eastern end and north-eastern 
projection form the chancel and burying-ground of the Forresters. 
According to tradition, the southern aisle is the most ancient 
part of the building, and was probably a part of the chapel of St 
John the Baptist. On the outer wall of it are carved, in seve- 
ral places, the arms of the Forresters, and within, bdow the win* 

* Parish Register, Vol. i. 



CORSTOUPHINE. 233 

doW) ia a vaulted arch^ there is a recumbent stone figure of a man 
with a sword hanging athis side ; the head resting on a stone cushion, 
and the feet on the figure of a dog. On the front of the arch are 
three armorial shields ; 1 Party per fess, a ship within a bordure 
in the upper half, and a cross raguled on the lower half, Sinclair 
of Orkney impaling Forrester, three hunting horns stringed. 
2. Forrester; 3. Forrester, having in the centre an escutcheon of 
pretence charged with a cross, raguled Sinclair. From the family 
arms being engraved on it, this must be the tomb of one of the 
Forresters, and probably represents Sir Alexander Forrester, ♦ 

On the north side of the chancel, under two similar vaults, are 
other stone figures in the same style of antique sculpture. The 
figures in the recess nearest to the body of the church represent 
Sir John Forrester, the founder of the Collegiate Church, and 
one of his ladies. Fronting this arch are five shields armorial, 
viz. 1. Forrester, three hunting horns stringed ; 2. Forrester im- 
paling St Clair of Orkney ; quarterly, first and fourth, a ship, se* 
cond and third, a cross; 3. Forrester; 4. Forrester impaling a 
fess cheque Stewart ; 5. Forrester. The figures under the other 
recess represent his son Sir John Forrester and his lady, and front- 
ing these figures are the three following shields armorial, viz. 1. 
Forrester ; 2. Forrester impaling Stewart, a fess cheque ; 3. For- 
rester, indicating that his lady's name was Stewart*|* 

On the wall of the chancel there is the following inscription : 

Istud Collegium incepit anno Domini 1429, et eodem anno 
Magister Nicholayus Banachtyne, propositus hie, subtus jacens, 
qui obiit anno Domini 147-. Cujus anniversarius simul posterisque 
Magistris celebrabitur T4 die mensis Junii pro quo annuus reddi- 
tus 10 librarum in villa de noyo Kirk Cramond. Orate pro papa 
et eo.:[ 

This inscription may be rendered thus in English : — " This col- 
legiate church was begun in the year of pur Lord 1429, and in 
the same year Mr Nicol Bannatyne was Provost here, who, lying 
beneath^ died in the year 147- ; a commemoration of him and his 
successors in office will be celebrated on the 14th of June annually, 
for which an annual rent of L. 10 is set apart out of the lands of 
New Kirk Cramond. — Pray for the Pope and for him." 

There are besides in the chancel, the niche where the basin of 

• Douglas Peerage by Wood, voce Forrester. f Ibid. 

$ This inscription is in old English characters with numerous abbreviations, and 
the last five words of it are partly erased. 



234 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

holy water was fixed, and an empty recess, which was once, no 
doubt, occupied by a stone figure like the others. 

In the room to the north of the chancel, formerly the burying 
vault of the Forresters, and now occupied by a stove for heating 
the church, there are several stones with inscriptions on them. 
One of these, which was formerly placed in the inner wall of the 
south aisle of the ehurch, contained a donation to the poor; but 
the first part of it is delete, so that the donor's name is not known. 
The words are : ^' Et dictus Patricius dedit in perpetuum pro sub- 
sidio praedictorum pauperum unum annuum reddilum quadraginta 
denariorum praedictae monetae, de Tota et Integra terra Joannis 
March, jacen inpraedicto burgo, secundum tenorem cartae indecon- 
fectae." Another, which was dug up from under the wall separating 
the church from the chancel at the last repair, contains the figure 
of a chalice with a wafer above it in the centre, and round this fi- 
gure towards the margin of the stone, in old English characters, 
the inscription, " Hie jacet Magister Robertus Heriot Bachilarius in 
Decretis, quoridam Rector Eccl'*. de Gogar, qui obiit xi. die men- 
sis Junii ano D'^^ m*^. ccccxliij." A third, which was found in 
a vault below the centre of the church, is a stone with an inscrip- 
lion over the tomb, of a relative of Agnes Tod, second wife of 
Archibald Forrester, and is in these words :-:— " Hie Jacet Alexr. 
Tod quond. filius Thomae Tod militis, qui obiit vii. die mensis 
September, ano D"' m**. cccc®. lxxx<>.'' Other stones, containing va- 
rious emblems and flowers, were found in the same vault. One of 
these, now at Corstorphine Hill, has a sword and emblems of a 
knight of one of the holy orders. This stone may possibly have co- 
vered the grave of the renowned Bernard SteuartLord D'Aubigny, 
who was Knight of the Order of St Michael, and died in the house 
of Archibald Forrester of Corstorphine in June 1508, and is said 
to have been buried within the collegiate church. 

Stipends. — At the first establishment of the Reformed Church, 
the reader's stipend was L. 25 Scots. Mr David Bassillie's sti- 
pend before 1631 was 340 merks Scots, and on 25th March of that 
year was augmented by the commission, with consent of the titu- 
lar of the teinds, to 300 merks money, and half a chalder of 
victual, half bear and half meal, during his incumbency, and after- 
wards another half chalder was to be added, and this without pre- 
judice to any augmentation to be modified out of the teinds of 
Gogar. The stipend in 1755 amounted to L. 84, lis. Id., and 
in 1798 to L. 175, 16s. 8d. 



CORSTORPHINE. 235 

The stipend now is the whole teinds of the parish, which are 
as follows : — 



Bolls. 


Firlots. ' 


Pecks. 


Lippies. 


3 





3 


0« Teas. 


38 


2 


2 


2« Wheat. 


104 


I 





8» Bear. 


.55 


1 


2 


3« Oats. 


52 


1 


2 


V Meal. 



Money, L. 2, 4s. 5^d. and vicarage. Ids. 4d. ; in all, 272 bolls. 

The following is a list of the clergymen jof the parish since the 
Reformation, viz. Mr Walter Cowper, reader, died in November 
1570. — Ministers : 1. Mr Andrew Forrester, son of Mr Alexander 
Forrester, minister of Tranent, admitted between 1587 and 1591, 
and transferred to Tranent in September 1598. 2. Mr Wil- 
liam Arthur, appointed to preach during the vacancy by the 
presbytery on 19th September 1598; admitted minister of Cor- 
storphine and Gogar, in consequence of a call of the peo- 
ple, on 7th June 1599. He was appointed by the General As- 
sembly of 1602, to visit the kirks in the west country. He is 
last noticed in the presbytery register, in August 1603. 8. Mr 
David Bassillie was minister in February 1631, and died about 
1654. 4. Mr Robert Hunter was elected by the heritors, elders, 
and whole parishioners, without one dissenting voice, and admitted 
1 1th April 1655 ; he was ejected for non-conformity on 2d October 
1662. After which the kirk was vacant till the appointment of, 
5. Mr Thomas Mowbray, who was received to the ministerial 
function on 13th March 1665, by collation of the Bishop of Ed- 
inburgh, with consent of the heritors. 6. Mr Archibald Chisholm, 
was presented to the living by James Lord Forrester, the patron, 
ratiBed by collation of George Bishop of Edinburgh ; and admitted 
on 7th December 1666. 7. Mr John Pringle was presented and 
admitted in the same way on 24th July 1670. 8. Mr George 
Henry was presented by Lord Forrester, and, in absence of all the 
heritors, admitted on 9th May 1672; he was expelled for refusing 
to proclaim William and Mary, on 10th May 1689. 9. Mr 
Archibald Hamilton, admitted in 1692, and died on 30th April 
1709. 10. Mr George Fordyce, chosen by a majority of the he- 
ritors and elders as patrons, under the Act 1692, and admitted on 
presenting their call with an adherence thereto bi/ thepeople^ on 18th 
October 1709, and died on 30th August 1767, aged eighty-five. 
1 L Mr John Chiesley, a Fife parson, " who had been very service- 
able to Mr Alexander of Clermiston, in his canvass for the An- 
struther burghs,*" was by his influence translated hither, and admitted 



236 KDINBURGHSHIBE. 

on 2dd November 1768; he died in June 1788^ ^'not much regret- 
ted by the parishioners." 12. Mr Thomas Sharp was tutor in 
the family of ihe patron ; he was afterwards settled in the south 
of Scotland, and translated hither, and admitted on 15th Octo- 
ber 1789, he died in July 1791.* 13. Mr James Oliver, former- 
ly minister of Ancrum, was admitted on 5th July 1792.f 14. Dr 
David Scott, was ordained and admitted on 17th November 1814, 
elected Professor of Oriental Languages in the University of St 
Andrews in 1833. 15. Mr David Home, formerly minister of 
Yester, was admitted on 28th November 1833. 

Presbyterial Visitations. — When the church was first planted, 
and for many years afterwards, it was watched over by the Presby- 
tery of Edinburgh with zealous care, and they appointed it to be 
visited from time to time by some of their members. Reports of 
these visitations are entered in the presbytery registers, and they 
seem to have been uniformly attended with good effects. We 
have already shown that it was by this means that the union of the 
parishes of Corstorphine and Gogar was accomplished, and that 
the stipend of Corstorphine was made adequate and respectable. 
Many other subjects, however, engrossed the attention of the vi- 
sitors. In August 1598, for instance, after enquiring into the life and 
doctrine ofthe minister and his wife and family, and sharplie rebuking 
the elders for not resorting to the kirk on the Sabbath afternoon, 
they examined the session-books, and finding no schoolmaster in 
the parish, enjoined that one should be immediately appointed; ar- 
ranged with the provost and laird of Corstorphine to put new glass 
windows into the kirk, and to rebuild the kirk-yard dykes ; and 
communed with the Abbot of Halierudhouse on the ruinous state 
of queir of the paroch kirk, and the inadequacy of the clergyman^s 
stipend. On another visitation on 16th October 1599, which 
seems to have been appointed because the parishioners had com- 
plained that Mr William Arthur, their minister, was ^^ overleirnit a 
man for thame.*' " The presbytery fand, Ist, That Mr William 
Arthur edifiet them, but craved that he suld be mair plain to the 
people in deliverie. 2d^ He was honest in lyf, and careful in dis- 
charging his dewtie. Itenij They fand that the elders wer slack 
and negligent in discipline, qrof they being admonishet promisit 
to amend." Itemf That deacons were ^^ faithful in their office,'' &c. 

• Wood's MS. 

f See the remarks on the state of reh'gion in the parish in the last Statistical Ac- 
count, Vol. m, pp. 461 and 468, written by Mr Oliver as a specimen of bis views. 
He seems to have been a sounder politician than a divine. 



CORSTORPHINE. 237 

The next visitation took place in February 1601, and the report 
shews that the admonitions had been useful for ^^ they fand Mr 
William Arthur, theminister, eldaris, anddeaconis, weel thocht of;' 
and again in August 1602, ^* they heard nathing of the minister, 
elders, and deacons, but a good report, and all uther things wer 
Weill." 

Discipline. — During the ministry of Mr David Bassillie and 
his successor, Mr R. Hunter, there was a weekly sermon in the 
church every Tuesday, except for a few weeks in seed-time and 
in harvest, and it was after this sermon that, the meetings of ses- 
sion were usually held. This weekly service was discontinued after 
Mr Hunter's expulsion, and was not resumed until June 1674, 
when Mr Henry, at the request of the elders, promised to preach 
every Thursday in time coming, except seed-time and harvest, 
and from this period it was kept up during the incumbency of Mr 
Archibald Hamilton and his successor, Mr Fordyce, at whose 
death it was finally given up. Church discipline was much more 
strictly enforced, and the parish under a more efficient guardian- 
ship, while this service was continued, than during the incumbency 
of the three Episcopalian clergymen of the intervening period, from 
1662 to 1672. During this disturbed period, there are many indica- 
tions in the register, of comparative laxity of principle in the clergy- 
men, and of the disaffection of the people to Episcopacy. As a speci • 
men of the former, we may quote the following entry : << 2d May 
1668. Anent scandal, &c. The session thinks fit that the Justices 
of His Majesty's Peace who are heritors of this paroch, may be ad- 
vertised to sit in session the next Lord's day, in regard that much 
of the matter contained in the two claims belongs to their part." 
This may be contrasted with the following entry on 15th May 
1692, soon afler the re-establishment of Presbytery; *' Mr Wil- 
son's petition for remuneration for his trouble in providing preachers 
during the vacancy, not being a work JU for the Sabbath^ is con- 
tinued, and afterwards referred to a meeting of heritors." The 
impopularity of Episcopacy is well illustrated by the following en- 
tries: " 1st Sept. 1670. This day, Lord Forrester desired the 
minister to cause every elder in their respective bounds, to give up 
a list of all such persons as absent ye church, in contempt of ye 
present government yrof ;" and " 1 1th February 1677. The minis- 
ter gave in a grievance against Alexander Lowrie, for baptising 
his child with ane unconformed minister, contrary to the establish- 
ed government of the church." 



238 EDIN BURGHSHIRE. 

On the other hand, the register exhibits, during the ministry of 
Mr Robert Hunter, Mr Archibald Hamilton, and Mr Fordyce, 
the most rigid examples of Presbyterian strictness in order and 
discipline. In July 1655, Mr Hunter assigned to the elders and 
deacons separate districts of the parish '^ for their special oversight 
of the manners and conversation of the people living in the same, 
to the end that they might visit every one in their quarters, take 
inspection of their carriage, and give, from time to time, informa- 
tion of any thing amiss therein." In this arrangement, a deacon 
was joined to one or two elders in the superintendence of the dis- 
trict in which they respectively resided. They were likewise in- 
structed to search their bounds, to see what servants were lately 
come to the parish, and to make report of their testimonials, that 
their names might be taken up for examination, and the elder and 
deacon of the bounds was required to be present at the diet of 
examination of those in their own bounds. 

When Mr Archibald Hamilton and Mr Fordyce were ministers 
of Corstorphine, the parochial machinery was still more efficient 
and complete. The session of the former, in July 1695, assumed 
the singular power of directing their kirk-officer severely to punish 
all children whom he found breaking the Sabbath. In October 
1705, the minister recommended to all the elders to be careful 
that the worship of God be kept up in each family of their bounds. 
At this time also the elders and deacons had their privy censures, 
each leaving the meeting in turn, while the others reported what 
they knew of his life and conversation, and on his return he was 
commended or exhorted, as the report was favourable or the reverse. 

Mr Fordyce, shortly after his ordination, proposed that for all 
time coming, the elders should meet in the church the first Mon- 
day of every month, at nine o'clock in the morning, where he would 
meet with them, and spend some time in prayer, and conference 
about the state of the parish, ^' when they would endeavour to edify 
one another by proposing and solving cases of conscience and 
Scripture doubts, and )ie also promised to explain to them a part 
of the Confession of Faith, each of these times, till they had gone 
through it all. To this proposal all the elders readily agreed." In 
1712, he laid before his session ^Uhe necessity of prayer, and setting 
up societies through the several bounds of the parish for the same, 
to which all the elders readily agreed, and it was resolved that he 
and the elders in their several districts, should speak to the heads 
of families anent the same.^' 

4 



COIISTORPHINE. 239 

After Mr Fordyce's death, during the ministry of the two follow- 
ing clergymen, discipline was so totally relaxed, that on Mr Oliver's 
appointment, he found only a single elder in the parish, and dis- 
covered that the register of discipline had been discontinued for ten 
years, while the few entries between that period and the death of 
Mr Fordyce are in general dated at the nianse, where it appears 
Mr Chiesley usually held his meetings of session. 

Election of Ministers and Elders. — Sir Robert Keith Dick of 
Corstorphine is patron of the church. In the list of clergymen, 
we have mentioned the form in which they were severally elected, 
where any record of it is preserved in the presbytery or parish re- 
gisters. The consent and concurrence of the congregation was 
most carefully sought in the elections prior to 1665, and in the 
elections of Mr George Fordyce, and probably of his predecessor. 
The others, with the exception of the present incumbent, who was 
settled under the Act of 1833, were the presentees of absolute pa- 
trouage. Enough has been stated above to enable the reader to 
judge which of the two systems has worked best in this parish. 

There were deacons as well as elders from the planting of the 
church down to the expulsion of Mr Hunter in 1662. At first the 
session was elected or re-elected annually and publicly received be- 
fore the congregation. In September 1656, there is an entry in 
the register of discipline, complaining that, *^ for many years by- 
gone, the elders and deacons had not been changed nor publicly re- 
ceived before the congregation, whereby the power and authority 
of the session was ready to be vilified, the people neither knowing 
the charge and duty of such as were over them, nor were those in 
charge put in mind of their charge, nor solemnly engaged to the 
same." It is then stated that it is ^'^ the order and practice of this 
church that, either yearly or in similiter congregations in thecouu- 
trie, each two years, there should be a new election of the elder- 
ship." 

Both elders and deacons were always elected by the previous ses- 
sion, except in 1684, when the heritors named to the minister the el- 
ders they wished for their respective districts, Lord Forrester appoint- 
ing those for the barony, and fhe others for their own estates. The 
form of election at first was for the session to meet and agree upon 
a list of persons qualified for the office and living in the several dis- 
tricts into which the parish was ecclesiastically divided. The pre- 
sent elders and deacons of each district were then removed, and in 
their absence the rest of the session proceeded to elect an elder or 



240 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

elders and a deacon for that district, till the number was filled up. 
The names were then intimated from the pulpit, when all the congre- 
gation were required to state any objections they might have to any 
of the persons chosen. After 1692 elders were chosen in the form 
now in general use. In 1656, the session consisted of nine elders 
and seven deacons. In 1709, the parish was divided into twelve 
districts, and an elder appointed to each. 

Gogar. — According to Mr Wood, Gogar is a Celtic word, signify- 
ing light ; it was originally written Goger. There was a church or 
rectory at Gogar, which is noticed in the MS. Taxationes Eccle* 
siasticarum in Episcopatu St Andreae et Decanatu de Linlithgow in 
the year 1167, as Ecclesia de Gogar. This church was acquired 
by the canons of Holy rood in 1240. It seems to have been sepa- 
rated from Holy rood in 1296, when the kirk lands belonging to it 
were given to Andrew, then parson of Gogar. In the taxt roll of 
the archbishoprick of St Andrews, in 1547, it is entered as Rec- 
toria de Gogar, and it is included in Keith's list of the parsonages 
at the Reformation. It was at one time annexed to the Trinity 
College of Edinburgh.* 

Although it is called a parish church, it does not appear that any 
well«defined parish was ever assigned to it It comprehended, pro- 
bably, the villages of Nether Gogar and Gogar Stone, and the 
whole of the lands now known by the name of Gogar. At the Re- 
formation the superintendent of Lothian placed John Coise, reader 
in the kirk of Gogar, who seems to have been a very illiterate 
man. He was ordered by the presbytery in 1586 " to desist from 
public preaching, and to content himself with simple reading of God's 
word;'' and at a second visitation in 1598, he was directed ^*to 
read prayers and chapters, and catechise the people after the form 
of examination, and to learn thame to reheirs ye articles of ye be- 
leif, ye commands, and ye Lord's Prayer." 

The parishioners of Gogar made many efforts to havQ their 
kirk planted, but they were too few in number and too poor to 
raise a sufficient provision for that purpose. With this view they 
applied to the Synod and Presbytery in 1599, offering to give 
Mr William Arthur, who was then serving the cure of Corstor- 
phine, L. 100 per annum and their kirkland, if he would become 
their regular clergyman. This, however, was considered an in- 
adequate provision, and therefore the Presbytery ^^ thocht good, 
for the present, to unite Gogar and Corstorphine." 

* See SiJOttisMTOod's Account of Religious IIouscSi p. 529. 

3 



CORSTORPIUNE, 241 

In the ancient taxatio of 1167, the Kirk of Gogar is valued at 
12 marks, and in Bagimont's Roll, at L.5, 6s. 8d. JohnCoise's 
stipend was the haill third of the parsonage and vicarage of Go- 
gar, and amounted to L« 22, 4s. 5d. Scots. 

The only distinguished rector of Gogar was Willielmus Man- 
derstoun, who was also Doctor in Medicine, and Rector of the 
University of St Andrews in 1530. He was the author of two 
learned works in logic and moral philosophy, * and probably held 
the living of Gogar as a sinecure. Another rector, James Heriot, 
Bachilarius in Decretis, died in 1440, and was buried in Corstor«i 
phine church. 

Gogar Kirky Church-yard^ and Glebe. — A small portion of the 
kirk of Gogar, which still exists, was converted into a family bu- 
rying-ground, by the proprietor of the estate, soon after the Re- 
formation. In 1748, Sir Robert Myreton of Gogar applied to 
the presbytery for a feu of the glebe and church-yard of Gogar, 
consisting of four acres of arable land, then let at L.4 per annum, 
and he offered to pay to the minister and his successors that rent 
as a perpetual feu-duty. This arrangement was formally agreed 
to by the Presbytery, and was acted on down to the year 1825, 
when Dr Scott, then clergyman of the parish, having been ad- 
vised that the transaction was illegal, raised an action against Mr 
Ramsay of Barnton, and was successful in recovering the glebe 
and church-yard as an inalienable property of the church. It is 
now let by the clergyman at a rent of L. 4 per acre. 

Ecclesiastical Statistics. — The church is seated for 536 persons. 
Of this number there are appropriated to the heritors, according 
to their valued rent, 470 sittings : to the minister, 1 1 ; the elders, 
10 ; the schoolmaster, 8 ; pew for baptisms, 5 ; and to the poor, 32. 
Education. — In the Report of the Presbyterian Visitation of 
August 1598, it is said that ^^ they fand na schoolmaster in the 
parish, qlk they desyrit thame to amend.'' Whether this re- 
commendation was immediately attended to does not appear ; but 
from an entry at the commencement of the parish register, it is 
evident that a school existed previous to 1646. In that entry it 
is stated, that ^^ Mr James Chalmer had agreed to be schoolmaster 
on receiving one hundred merks, for the payment of which the 
whole heritors were to be stented according to the proportion of 
their lands, in addition to what had been doted to former school- 
masters by George Lord Forrester, viz. ane house and yards within 

• Sec M»Cric*8 Life of Melville, Vol. I. p. 437. 
EDINBURGH, 2 



242 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the towne of Corstorphine, lying betwixt the minister's manse on 
the east, and John Aitken, mason, on the west, together with ane 
aiker and half of land lying above the smiddie upon the east side 
of the walk which goes to Cramond, and an aiker of land lying 
bewest the Cowesbrigge, upon the south syde of the little house 
that stands in the way-side, commonly called the Lamp Aiker^* 
within the parochine of St Cuthberts," &c In December 1655, 
the Session, by advice of the Presbytery, prohibited a man and 
his wife from teaching in the village, as an interference with the 
rights of the parochial schoolmaster. In 1699, however, it ap- 
pears that there were two schoolmasters in the parish, the one 
probably teaching at Corstorphine, and the other at Gogar. 

In April 1714, the fees per quarter to be charged by the parish 
schoolmaster were fixed by the kirk-session as follows, viz. Latin 
and arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; English and writing. Is. 8d.; English 
alone. Is. 2d. In September 1756, they were altered by the 
same authority to the following sums : — Latin, 5s. ; writing and 
arithmetic, 2s. 6d. ; English, 2s. The fees now chargeable are, 
English, 2s. 6d. ; writing, 8s. ; writing and arithmetic, including 
mensuration and geography, ds. 6d.; Latin or French, 5s. The 
average number attending the parish school is from 50 to 70. 
The annual salary of the parish schoolmaster is L.d4, 4s., and 
his perquisites are a dwelling-house, garden, and one acre and 
one rood of land in the village, with the Lamp Acre, near Colt* 
bridge, in St Cuthbert's parish, which has been feued to Mr 
Murray of Henderland for the following feu-duties per acre, viz. 
one boll wheat, one boll oats, and one boll barley. 

There has been, since the middle of the seventeenth century, 
a school at the village of Gogar. It is supported by subscriptions, 
which at present amount to L. 9 per annum. The school fees 
per quarter are, for English, 2s. 6d., and for English and arith- 
metic, 3s. The number of scholars averages about 40. Some 
years ago a school was opened at Stanhopemill, and last year ano- 
ther at Four-mile-end. These are taught by Dissenters, and 
have no support except the fees paid by the scholars. There is 
a thriving female school in the village of Corstorphine, and there 
are Sabbath schools both there and in Gogar. 

Library, — A parish library was collected in the village of Cor- 
storphine in 1838 by the present clergyman. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — In former times there was a box 

Sec last Statistical Account for origin of this narne^ 



CORSTORPHINE. 243 

kept by the session-clerk, and from time to time examined by the 
clergyman and elders, in which was deposited all the contributions 
of the parish, whether collected at the church door or by the dea- 
cons. The money contained in this box was primarily intended 
for the poor, but it was also applied to such ecclesiastical purposes 
as the session might approve of. In the beginning of 1646, for 
instance, about L.200 Scots ^as applied in repairing the church, 
and taking down the old parish church; and afterwards the damage 
done by Cromwell and his soldiers to the church seats and place 
of public repentance was remedied from this source. The amount 
contained in the box in November 1646, was L.208 Scots. 

A large additional parochial fund was afterwards obtained in 
the following manner : Marion Corstorphine, a foundling, who 
belonged to, and had been bred up from infancy in the parish, 
was servant to a gentleman of extensive property in the vicinity 
of Edinburgh. Her master, in July 1753, had, after having tied 
her hands and feet, beat her with a horse whip in a most bar- 
barous manner, to the great effusion of her blood, and he then 
placed her, stripped of clothing, in a dark cellar, where she was 
detained during the whole night, and no one allowed to come near 
her. On escaping from this savage treatment, she applied to Mr 
George Fordyce, the minister of Corstorphine, for protection and 
redress. He at once took up the case, and having threatened a 
criminal prosecution, the matter was speedily compromised by the 
master, who agreed to pay immediately L. 100 Sterling, which 
Mr Fordyce apportioned as follows, viz. L, 50 to Marion, L. 25 
to the poor of Corstorphine Parish, L. 10 to the poor of another 
parish where the outrage had been committed, and L. 15 to the 
Infirmary of Edinburgh; and afterwards to pay Marion L. 10 Ster- 
ling, yearly, until her marriage, and upon that occasion an addi- 
tional sum of L. 100 Sterling. 

This foundling, in return for the interest taken in her by the 
minister of Corstorphine, left her whole means to the poor of the 
parish, and, accordingly, on 14th December 1768, we find that 
the poor's funds amounted in value to L. 579, 8s. 4d. Sterling. 

The funds belonging to the poor at present are as follows, viz. 
1. Sum in bond to road trustees, I^ 250; 2. Legacy from the late 
A. Keith, Esq. L. 100 ; 3. Do. from the late Captain Charles 
Hope Watson, L. 100 ; total, L. 450r. 

The number of the poor in 1709 was only 5, and the amount 
paid for their maintenance monthly by the session was L. 4, 9s. 6d. 



244 EDINBURQUSHIRE. 

Scots. The number at present on the list of paupers is 38^ while 
the sum annually raised by assessment, collections, interest of the 
funds and other sources, amounted in 1888 to L. 299, 15s. Sterling. 
The bell of the church has the following inscription on it : — 
<< Sir James Forrester of Corstorphine gifted me to this kirk, an- 
no 1 577, and the heritors of Corstorphine renewed me anno 1728.*^ 
The weight of the old bell here referred to was 302 lbs., which 
the heritors sold for L. 136 Scots. The present bell weighs 384 
lbs., and the price of it, with the wheel and whole appendages, 
was L. 436 Scots. 

Fairs. — In 1661^ James Lord Forrester obtained an act of 
Parliament, authorizing four free fairs in the year to be held in 
the burgh of Corstorphine, ^^ as a fit place for ease of the leidges, 
and for selling of horses, nolt, sheip, bestial, and other goods and 
merchandize." The days fixed were as follows ; 1. on the first 
Tuesday after Easter; 2. on 24th July; 3. on 26th August; and 
4. on 20th October. 

None of these fairs are now held ; but there are two holidays 
in summer, which have succeeded them, — the one is held on the 
first Tuesday of June, and is called Corstorphine Fair. The 
other is the Carters' Play, and is held on the third Friday of June. 

MiSCKLLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. 

No parish has undergone more frequent and complete changes 
on its surface than Corstorphine. Notwithstanding its proximity 
to Edinburgh, which ought to have secured its improvement at an 
early period, it is only in comparatively recent times that it has 
been brought generally into cultivation. 

From the substratum of the western meadow, which consists of 
live moss, composed of decayed trees, it is evident that this part 
of the parisli was at one time overgrown with wood. This may 
have been the case at the time the Romans were in Britain, for 
the whole of this part of the country is described by Tacitus as 
abounding in forests ; but, at all events, this was the early state of 
the western meadow, and probably also of other parts of the parish. 

When by accident or otherwise these trees were destroyed, the 
meadow would in the course of nature become a bog or mire, and 
water would collect and cover its surface during the rainy season 
of the year. We have abundant evidence that it was at one time 
in this condition, from the name Goyle Myrey by which it is still 
known. 

The castle of the Forresters, which was situated between the 



CORSTOBPHINE. 245 

meadows, was surrounded by a moat and ditch full of water. The 
unsettled state of the country in the earlier periods of Scottish 
history would naturally lead them to increase the quantity of water 
which existed in the meadows as a means of defence, and it is not 
improbable that they admitted this additional supply from the 
Gogar-burn, at least, the appearance of the lochs in Bleaw's Map 
of Lothian would lead to this conclusion. 

In the narratives of the marches of Leslie and Cromwell in 
1650, the meadows and the fields at Gogar are described as full 
of bogs and marshes. The lochs had been drained before that pe- 
riod, but it is not known when this drainage took place. Refe- 
rence is made to it in an application which James Lord Forres- 
ter presented to Parliament in July 1661,* where he complains 
that ^^ the whole meadow ground and low-lying lands was undone 
by the overflowing of the Gogar-burne, and that partly through 
the neglect of those who formerly were accustomed to cast and 
keep clear the ditches and stanks through which the water did na- 
turally pass, and partly by the inbreaking of the said water in the 
lands of Redhewes." 

Part of the ground formerly occupied by the lochs became a 
common, which was not divided until the middle of the last cen- 
tury, and then, and for many years afterwards, the whole meadows 
produced only natural grass, which was partly pastured by the vil- 
lagers, and the rest let to tenants, who sold the grass for the 
dairies of Edinburgh. 

In a MS. map of Mid-Lothian, by John Adair, in the Advo- 
cates' Library, dated 1684, the meadows are represented as com- 
pletely covered by water, from which it would appear that irriga- 
tion was then used, as it is not likely that they would have been 
drawn in this manner by a surveyor of so great experience and ac^ 
curacy, had the flooding been merely accidental, and occasioned 
by heavy rains. 

About fifty or sixty years ago, the meadows were for the first 
time ploughed, and since that time they have been always under 
tillage, although the crops have been frequently destroyed by the 
autumnal floods. This happened in the western meadow, so late- 
ly as 1836, when about 20 acres of green crop in the Goyle My re 
were covered for some weeks with water and waterfowl, and not a 
vestige of them remained after the water subsided* This and si- 
milar disappointments led the farmers to attempt to efiect a more 
complete drainage of the meadows, by widening, straightenmg, 

* Thomson^s Acts, VoL rii. 



246 EDINBURGUSIUUE. 

and deepening the centre stank ; and this operation, which cost 
about L. 150, was performed in the spring of 1837, and has Ailly 
answered its intention, for no water has since lain on that meadow. 
In consequence of this improvement, the produce of the parish 
must be greatly increased since the time when the last Account 
was prepared, and it is expected that a similar improvement will 
be made in the drains of the eastern meadow, after the leases of 
the farms there, which are now nearly expired, have been renewed. 

October 1839. 



PARISH OF INVERESK. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. LESLIE MOODIE, D.D. MINISTER.* 
THE REV. J. G. BEVERIDGE, Assistant and Successor. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — The situation of the church and village of Inveresk, 
nearthe confluence of the river Esk with the Frith of Forth, in- 
dicates the origin of the name of this parish, ancientlywritten In- 
neraskj Enderask, and Undreske. If we adopt the common ac- 
ceptation of the Gaelic words Inver and uisffe or uisk^ the name 
Inveresk signifies the mouth of the river. The same appellation 
in a different language seems once to have been affixed to MusseU 
burgh, now the chief town in the parish, which is mentioned in 
history, as the Eske muthe of the Northumbrian Saxons : its mo- 
dern name it derives from an extensive mussel bank which stretches 
out into the sea in its immediate vicinity. In ancient charters it 
is almost uniformly written Muschelburg. 

Extent and Boundaries. — This parish, lying on the south shore 
of the Frith of Forth, at the bottom of a considerable bay, is of a 
semicircular form, about 3 miles in length, and 2^ in breadth. It 
is bounded on the east, by the parishes of Prestonpans and Tranent; 
on the south, by Cranston and Dalkeith ; and on the west, by 
Newton, Liberton, and Duddingstone. 

Topographical Appearance. — With the exception of a ridge of 

• The materials for this Account were partly collected by Dr Moodie ; The Account 
is dravn up by the Rev. J. G. Beveridge. 



INVERESK. 247 

inconsiderable elevation (about 540 feet above the level of the sea,) 
lying along the southern boundary of the parish, the general ap- 
pearance of the ground is flat, sloping towards the sea, but varied 
with occasional gentle and irregular undulations. On one of these, 
lying in the form of a crescent, with the concave side towards the 
south, and having the river flowing round its western base, stands 
the village of Inveresk, which, from its fine southern exposure, 
ornamental woods, elegant villas, and the extensive prospect it 
commands, has been justly celebrated as one of the most beauti- 
ful situations in Scotland.* The soil in the immediate^^vicini- 
ty of the village is chiefly of a light sandy nature, but highly 
productive. On the higher grounds a rich clay prevails, varied 
with black loam ; and along the sea shore stretch extensive downs, 
part of which has, of late years, been converted into a race-course. 
Almost the whole land in the parish is rich and fertile, and in a 
high state of cultivation, the fields being generally fenced with 
stone walls or thriving hedges. There is, comparatively, only a small 
part of it planted, but it is sheltered and adorned on the west by 
the extensive woods of Buccleuch Park, and those of New Hailes, 
and on the east by the rising plantations of Drummore. From 
the high ground to the south, a wide and varied prospect is ob- 
tained. Beyond the Frith of Forth are seen the hills of Fife and 
the Ochils, and on clear days, the distant summit of Benlomond 
in the Grampian range is visible. 

Meteorology^ 8fc. — The climate here is mild, the air is dry and 
salubrious; rather less than the medium quantity of rain falls 
throughout the year ; and, with the exception of cold easterly winds 
in spring, the temperature is such as well entitles the village to the 
^ name anciently bestowed upon it — the Montpelier of Scotland. 
Snow never lies for any length of time, and frosts are much less 
intense than at higher elevations in the neighbourhood. A singu- 
lar instance of the power of attraction is frequently observed in 
summer. The clouds carried by a west wind along the Pentland 
hills are seen, on arriving at their eastern extremity, to diverge 
either to the south, passing along the ridge of Carberry, or to the 
north, emptying themselves into the waters of the Forth. The 
prevailing winds are from the south-west, east, and north-east. 
Easterly winds prevail chiefly in the spring months, and are almost 
uniformly accompanied with an unusual degree of cold. 

* Maitland, in his History of Edinburgh, calls it " the beautiful village of Inveresk, 
which from its situation, houses, and salubrity of sir, is justly reckoned the finest 
village, and most healthy place in Scotland.** — Fol. 1753, p. 504. 



248 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



The following Meteorological Tables are compiled from a daily 
register kept at Admiral Sir David Milne's, Inveresk. Lat. 
55° 56' 20", Long. 3° 2' 40" ; level above the sea at high- 
water-mark 70 feet; distance from sea 1 mile. 





Means 


Means 


Means 1 Means 




Rainy 
or 






Year 


of 
Bar. 


of 
Ther. 


of 
Ther. 


of 
Ther. 


Rain 
in 


Fair 

1 


Nights when 


1837. 


at 


at 


at 


during 


inches 


snowy 
days. 


days. 


Aurora seen. 




9 A. M. 


10 a.m. 


8 p.m. 


night. 








Jan. 


29.490 


35.225 


84. 


30.854 


1.666 


10 


21 




Feb. 


29.289 


39.571 


37.857 


33.585 


2.111 


13 


15 


■ 


March 


29.467 


35.985 


32.488 28.161 


1.666 


11 


20 




April 


29.195 


40.266 


86.266 32.400 


2333 


15 


15 




May 


29.878 


50.290 


45.483 


41.741 


1.444 


14 


17 




June 


29 854 


57.266 


54.8 


47.800 


2.5 


12 


18 




July 


29.965 


61.a32 


58.677 


52.483 


4.338 


17 


14 




Aug. 


29.69& 


57.580 


55.064 


49.387 


4.111 


12 


19 




Sept. 


29.743 


53.733 


49.8 


45.8 


1.166 


9 


21 


2:}d and 30th. 


Oct. 


29.780 


52. 


48.645 


44.090 


2.883 


12 


19 


6th, 18th, 28d. 


Nov. 


29.500 


40. 


38.183 


83. 


1.75 


14 


16 


5th and 12th. 


Dec 


29.724 


40.225 


39.908 


36.082 


2. 


14 


17 


1st. 


For 


29.481' 46.921 


i 44.217 


39.448 


27.416 153 


212 


8 nights. 


year. 


(Avg.)(Avg.y(Avg.) 


(Avg.)'CSum.)'(Sum.)'(Sum.) 





GENERAL REMARKS. 

Barometer; at 9 a. m. highest on 1st January, 30.57. Wind, N. W. At 9 a. m. 
lowest 2d November, 28.45. Wind, S. W. 

Thermometer, at 10 a. m. highest 23d June, 68^ Wind, S.W. At 10 a. m. was 
lowest 14th March, 35^ Wind, W.S.W. 

Thermometer, at 8 p. m. highest 23d June, 66". Wind, S.W. At 8 p. m. lowest 
1 1th January, 16*. W ind, S. W. 

Hottest month was July ; coldest, March. Wettest month, July ; dryest, Sept, 



Year 

1838. 



Jan. 

Feb. 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

Aug. 

Sept. 

Oct. 

Nov. 

Dec. 



For 
year. 

Deg. 
frcez. 

Deg. 
freoz. 



Bar. 
at 9 

A. M. 



Ther. Ther. 



at 10 

A. M. 



29.87 

29.568 

29.583 

29.624 

29.846 

29.67 

29.755 

29.612 

29.823 

29.713 

29.3>t7 

29.799 



29.684 

(Avg.) 

below / 

point 3 

above ) 

point I 



29.967 

27.071 

40.064 

44.a38 

49.258 

54.866 

58.354 

57.096 

5a7 

47.096 

38.633 

89.822 



45.021 
(Avg. 

265 
5082 



at 8 

p. M. 



Ther. 

least 

in 

night. 



Ther. 

highest 

in 

day. 



28.806 

26.428 

86645 

37.366 

44.580t 

52.3 

56.387 

55.483 

51.266 

45.225 

37.266 

39.258 



42.584 
)(Avg.) 

856 

4298 



25.161 

21.785 

81.741 

84.1 

38.082 

47.4 

51.451 

50.258 

46.5 

40.908 

38.533 

85.677 



38.045 
^Avg.) 

708 
2756 



38.677 

84.857 

45.741 

50.233 

55.887 

58.933 

63.822 

62.580 

58.166 

52.929 

42.9 

45.645 



50. 

(Avg.) 

65 



6745 



Rain 

in 

inches. 



.666 
.222 

2. 

1.5 

2.888 

4.5 

1.944 

2.388 

8.777 

2. 

2.666 
.5 



Fair 
and 
dry 

days. 



364 24.551 
(total) 



16 
18 
18 
18 
19 
11 
16 
18 
16 
19 
16 
22 



207 
(totl.) 



Snow 

and 

rainy 

days 



15 
10 
13 
12 
12 
19 
15 
13 
14 
12 
14 
9 



158 

Ctotl.) 



Nights on which 
Aurora seen. 



16th. 



18,15,19,27,28. 
14. 



7 nights 
(total.) 



GENEUAL SUMMARY. 
Barometer, at 9 4. m. was highest on the 3d Oct. 30.57. Wind, N.E. Was lowest 
on the 29th Nov. 27.70. Wind, S. 



INVEllESK. 249 

Thermometer, at 10 a. m. was highest on the 6th July, 67**. Wind, N. Was 
lowest on the 20th January, 12°. Wind S.S. W. 

Thermometer, at 8 p. m. was highest on the 1 1th July, 64". Wind, S.W. Was 
lowest on the 20th January, 9°. Wind, S.S.W. 

Thermometer, in night, was highest on the 11th July, 59®. Was lowest on the 
15th February, 5*. 

Thermometer, in day, was highest on the 8th May, 78°. Wind, N.W. Was 
lowest on the 20th January, 20°. Wind, S. S. W. 

February was the coldest and dryest month ; June the* wettest ; July the hottest. 

January 20th was the coldest day, therm. 14°. Wind, S.S.W. 

July 11th was the hottest day, therm. 63°. Wind, S.W. 

Mean temperature of year, lliermometer, 44.204°. 

Wind was betwixt north and west, 101 days ; betwixt west and south, 132 days ; 
betwixt south and east, 49 days ; betwixt east and north, 83 days. 

Diseases. — It must be confessed, that, although upon the whole 
the district is healthy, epidemics and contagious diseases occasion- 
ally prevail with considerable severity, especially typhus and scarlet 
fever. We must, however, look for the cause of this not so much 
in any peculiar insalubrity of climate, as in the crowded, ill venti- 
lated dwellings, and the filthy habits and insufficient diet of a great 
part of the lower orders. Of late years influenza has occasionally 
been common. When Asiatic cholera visited this country in 1832, 
Musselburgh and Fisherrow suffered from that mysterious scourge 
as severely in proportion to their size as any towns in the kingdom. 
The greatest number of deaths in one day was 18; and from the 
19th January, the date of the first case, to the 19th March, the 
number of deaths was 282, whilst the average yearly mortality of 
the whole parish is only 176 ; so that in that short space the num- 
ber of deaths exceeded the average annual mortality by 106. * 
Abundant proof, however, is furnished of the favourable nature 
of the climate by the fact, that a large proportion of the inhabi- 
tants attain to an advanced age. There are not a few who have 
numbered upwards of fourscore years; and there is one individual 
still in the enjoyment of comparatively good health, who is in her 
ninety-eighth year. Pulmonary consumption is uncommonly rare. 

Hydrography, — Springs of water abound throughout the parish, 
but none of them are of a medicinal nature. The average depth 
of wells is 15 feet. The water is abundant, and of excellent qua- 
lity. The only river is the Esk, containing the united waters of 
the North and South Esks, the former rising from the Pentland, 
the latter from the Morfit hills. The two streams meet in 
Dalkeith Park, near the south-west boundary of this parish, and 
the river thenceforth flowing in a north-easterly direction, with a 
beautifully winding course, falls into the sea a short distance be- 
low Musselburgh. The quantity of water in this stream has been 

* The total number of deaths in 1832 was 553. 



250 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

considerably diminished, in consequence of the erection of a reser- 
voir in the Pentland Hills, for supplying the capital with- water* 

Geology and Mineralogy. — The geological features of this pa- 
rish present no great variety of character. The rocks belong ex- 
clusively to the stratified or sedimentary class, that is to say, they 
have been all formed at the bottom of a deep ocean, by the depo- 
sit of various substances mechanically suspended in the waters. 
There are in the parish no Plutonian rocks, such as greenstone, ba- 
salt, or porphyry. The sedimentary formations in this parish 
consist exclusively of strata more or less thick, of sand, clay, lime- 
stone, and coal. They form part of a large deposit, which ex- 
tends through the greater part of the Lothians, and which has 
been termed the great coal basin of the Lothians. It has been 
ascertained by geologists, that this coal basin must have been de- 
posited at a period in the history of the globe anterior to the de- 
position of the strata forming the Durham and Newcastle coal- 
field, inasmuch as the latter are found to lie a long way above the 
strata in the valley of the Tweed, which can be proved to be con- 
temporaneous with the Lothian deposits. 

Coal appears to have been worked in this parish at a very early 
period. There is still extant a tunnel, which runs under Eskgrovo 
House, through which a part of the river Esk had at an ancient 
period been conducted to drive a wheel at Pinkie, used for drain- 
ing the coal seams there.* The expense, labour, and difficulty of 
making the tunnel must have been very great. It was begun in 
November 1742, and finished in May 1744. The north entrance 
to it is built up, and may be seen in the plantation within which 
Eskgrove House stands. The south entrance to it has not been 
traced. 

The old sea-cliff which runs along the south shore of the Frith 
of Forth traverses this parish. The village and church of Inver- 
esk stand on it. The upper level of it is about 80 feet above the 
sea, the base about 65 feet The teeth, scales, and bones of large 
sauroidal fish have been found in the shale and coal seams at 

* This extraordinary aqueduct was constructed by William Adam, architect, of 
Edinburgh. That gentleman erected a coal- work at Pinkie in 1739, out of which 
he extracted the water by a horse-machine. This was, however, found to be ineffi- 
cient ; and he determined to cut an aqueduct through the hill on which Inreresk 
stands. Preparatory to this great undertaking, he cut a canal from the Esk to the 
foot of Inveresk hill, above a mile in length. Coming here on a bed of sand, it became 
necessary to sink two shafts, one at each extremity of his intended aqueduct, to the 
depth of 50 feet. He then began his duct through the rock. Between these shafts 
the aqueduct is Dearly 800 feet in length, 4 feet in width, and G in height; and about 
100 feet below the surface of the hill on which the village is situated. 



1NVERESK. 251 

New Craighall; and shells of a mussel shape are also met with in the 
shale at Cowpits, Pinkie^burn, &c. It is matter of dispute whether 
these lived in fresh or salt water. All, however, are agreed, that 
they are now in the position where they lived and died. Now 
this bed of mussel-shell extends for several miles, showing neces- 
sarily a considerable extent of water. This is farther proved by 
the occurrence of fishes' teeth found at Craighall and neighbour- 
ing collieries ; and similar proofs exist in every part of the Lo- 
thians, that the strata composing them were deposited in the man- 
ner already stated, namely, at the bottom of a great lake or sea, 
into which were transported trees, plants, vegetables of all kinds, 
in great abundance. Great numbers of fossil ferns and coniferous 
trees have been found at all the collieries.* 

Several quarries of freestone are wrought within the parish. 
Limestone also exists in abundance, although not wrought to any 
extent at present, as a plentiful supply can be had at Cousland, 
formerly a part of this parish, but now annexed to the adjoining 
parish of Cranston. The most interesting and valuable of the 
strata are the coal seams. On each side of the Esk, which bi- 
sects the parish from south to north, the ground rises with a gentle 
inclination from the river. The coal strata have the same incli- 
nation. The under coal extends from the river westward about 
two miles and a half, and eastward about three miles and a half 
to its* surface edges. Northward the coal-field crosses the Frith 
of Forth, and southward extends about twenty miles along the 
course of the rivers. This coal-field, which contains forty beds 
of coal (of which the thickest is 9 and the thinnest 2^ feet in 
thickness) is supposed to have more coal in a section of its centre 
than any other coal-field in the island. The coal-mines at present 
wrought in this parish are the three upper beds of this formation. 
Their respective thicknesses are 3, 4^, and 4 feet. The average 
distance from the surface to the first of the beds is from 9 to 12 
fathoms. The depth of the deepest pit is 56 fathoms. Foul air 
occasionally causes inconvenience to the miners, but never to such 
extent as to require the use of the safety-lamp. It prevails most 
in south winds. The principal collieries are at New Craighall, 
Monktonhall, and Edmonstone. Formerly there were collieries at 
Pinkie-burn, Midfield, and Cowpits, but they have of late years 
been abandoned. At the pit at New Craighall there is erected, 

• See Memoir in the Trans. Roy. Soc. Vol. xiv. Part I., by D. Milne, Esq. to 
whom the compiler is indebted for the above observations on the geology of this 
parish. 



252 



EDINBURGHSHIRE. 



for clearing the mines of water, the largest steam-engine of which 
this country can boast. It was constructed by Claud Girdwood 
and Co., Glasgow, at an expense of upwards of L.6000, exclusive 
of sinking the pit, &c. It is of 140 horse power, can work thirteen 
strokes per minute, and deliver in that time 889.779 ale gallons. 
A description of it is to be found in a treatise by Mr John Milne, 
teacher of architectural and mechanical drawing, Edinburgh, en- 
titled A Practical View of the Steam Engine, illustrated by En- 
gravings of the largest Engine in Scotland. 

Zoology. — There is little worthy of remark in the zoology of 
the parish. The animals found here are such as are common over 
the lowlands. There is no peculiar species of cattle bred. The 
kinds of fish ordinarily caught in the Frith of Forth are the had- 
dock, cod, flounder, and whiting. Mackerel and sole are also oc- 
casionally got ; the latter, it is believed, might be found in much 
greater plenty were proper tackle to be employed. Salmon are 
also caught in small quantities at the mouth of the Esk. 

Botany. — The banks of the Esk furnish a rich field for the bo- 
tanist. The following list comprises most of the plants found in 
the parish. 

Galanthus nivalis, rare 
Galeopsis LadanunOf rare 
Galium Aparine, common 
w«.«*«»^.<« cruciatimi) common 
»«i>«M>.^»w verum, common 
Geranium moUe, common 

pusillum, very rare 
robertianum, common 
sanguineum, less common 
Geum rivale, common 
fim,m,,»»m UTbanumy common 



Achillaea Millefolium, common 
Affrostemma Githago, less common 
Ajuga reptans, common 
Alchemilla arvensis, common 
vulgaris, common 



»^»W^PlffW<W» 



Allium ursinum, common 
Althaea oflScinalis 
Anagallis arvensis, common 
Anthriscus vulgaris, common 
Arctium Lappa, common 
Ballota nigra, less common 
Bellis perennis, common 
Campanula latifolia, less common 
»>.»M>.^.>^»— >- rapunculoides, rare 
m0m>0m-0-m,»*0mtm0m, rotundlfolia, commoH 
Capsella Bursa^Pastoris, common 
Cardamine pratensU, common 
Carduus acanthoidcs, common 
....-.»«■„>., tenuiflorus, less common 
Car ex arcnaria, common 
Centaurea nigra, common 
Cbenopodium albunu common 
Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum, com. 
Conium maculatum, common 
Crataegus Oxyacantha, common 
Cytisus Scoparius, common 
Dactylis glomerata, common 
Digitalis purpurea, common 
Echium vulgare, common 
Equisetam arvense, common 
Euphrasia officinalis, common 
Fragaria vesca, common 
Fumaria officiaalis, common 



mmmmt ly »K^> II »ii^wi> 



#tfW*W««»«M«M<MWfk 



Glechoma hederacea, common 
Hedera Helix, common 
Hippuris vulgaris, less common 
Holcus lanatus, common 
Hydrocharis Morsus Ranae 
Juncus congloraeratus, common 
Lamium album, common 
,w*»m**^mm,»,»» purpureum, common 
Lathyrus pratensis, common 
Leontodon Taraxacum, common 
Lolium perenne, common 
Lotus corniculatus, common 
»f0mm.,0^ major, common 
I^ychnis dioica, common 
wmM,,mmm00m^ vcspcrtina, common 
*»0n,»^mm» Flos Cuculi, common 
Lycopodium cfavatum, less common 
Lycopsis arvensis, common 
Lythrum salicaria, rare 
Malva sylvestris, conunon 
Mentha arvensis, common 
Myosotis arvensis, common 



INVERESK. 



253 



Myrrhis odortita, less common 
Ononis arvensis, common 
Orchis maculatai common 
«,».*««—»»»■ mascula, common 
Orobus tuberosus, common 
Oxalis Acetosella, common 
Papaver Rbaias, common 
Petasites vulgaris, common 
Phalaris arundlnacea, common 
Phleum pratense, common 
Plantago coroDopus, less common 
.^Kw^^w.— >■ lanceolata, common 
<»WM>«»»»<>»»» major, common 
Potendlla reptans, rare 
Primula veris, common 
».»^*»i>.»— vulgaris, common 
Ranunculus acris, common 

bulbosus, less common 
Flammula, common 



w ^0i0<0f^im^»^^<^^im0mfm 



VWV^VwMMMMiWMPWWm 



Sedum acre, common 
Senecio JacolMca, common 

„,.... ,» vulgaris common 

Silene inflata, common 
Sinapis arvensis, common 
Solanum Dulcamara, less common 
Sonchus oleraceus, common 
Stachys arvensis, less common 
Stelliuria graminea, less common 
.ww»^.w»«w»^ holostea, common 
..I...I.WW.W nemorum, rare 
Tanacetum vulgare, less common 
Thymus Serpyllum, common 
Tormentilla officinalis, common 

Trifolium arvense, less common 
filiforme, common 
medium) common 
Tussilago Farfara, common 
Ulex EuropiBus, common 
Urtica dioica, common 
«M «.»»»»»» urens, common 
Veronica Chamsdrys, common 
>.»>»,>—».»»«. hederifulia, common 
Vicia sativa, less common 
Viola canina, common 
tricolor, common 



«(M^^«l^^#WMM«MrM 



■Vtf^Mff^MMPWMfVWWk 



0*mm^9m0m 



Raphanus Raphanistrum, common 
Reseda Luteola, common 
Rinanthus Crista- Galli, common 
Rosa Canina, common 
Rubus id£eus, less common 
Rumex acetosa, common 
»>—»■»»■.«.» Acetosella, common 
Sambucus nigra, less common 
Scrophularia nodosa, common 

The Messrs Handasyde have long enjoyed a high reputation as 
florists. Their collection of Dahlias, for choice varieties of which 
they have repeatedly obtained prizes from the Edinburgh Horti- 
cultural Society, has for some years past outrivalled those of all 
competitors ; and it may serve to show the spirit and enterprise 
with which they engage in the cultivation of flowers, to state the 
fact, that, a few years ago, they obtained possession of the only 
specimen of the white Verbena then in Great. Britain, at a cost of 
not less than fifty guineas. 

The trees which appear best* adapted to the soil are the ash, 
oak, elm, plane, beech, and other deciduous kinds. Compara- 
tively few of the pine tribe have been planted. The Acacia, of 
which there are a considerable number, seems to thrive well. It 
may be proper here to state, that, at the east entrance to Buc- 
cleuch Park, by Smeaton Gate, there are seven magnificent ce- 
dars of Lebanon, remarkable not less for their great size, than for 
the graceful symmetry of their shape. 

IL — Civil Histoey.* 

Musselburgh was a burgh 

When Edinburgh was nane, 
And Musselburgh will be a burgh 

When Edinburgh is gane,^~Local Traditional Rhyme. 

History has not informed us what particular name was given to 

* For the account of the Civil History and Antiquities of this parish the compiler 
is indebted to D. M. Moir, Esq. 



254 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ibis district of the province of Valentia, but the discoveries of con- 
secutive ages have demonstrated the existence, not only of a Ro* 
man fort and station, but of a civil jcolony of that people in this 
parish. Driving out the Ottadini and the Gadeni, the British 
tribes, that had possessed the shire for a thousand years, the 
Romans took possession of the land, towards the end of the first 
century, and retained it for nearly four centuries. The only traces 
of the aboriginal inhabitants, in the names still existing in the lo- 
cality, are to be found in Eshj and Carberry (Caerharrin).^ 

When the Romans abdicated the possession of this district, they 
were sucoeeded by the Anglo-Saxons from Northumberland ; and 
their seat of population here was designated by the name of £«A- 
muthe* These again were displaced by the Scoto-Irish from the 
west ; and, by them, the present name of Inveresk was substituted. 
Without reverting to the British, the Roman, or even the Saxon 
inhabitants, we are thepefore carried back by the Gaelic affix In* 
ver to those remote Celtic times, ere yet the Crown of Scotland 
submitted to lineal succession in the issue of Malcolm Canmore. 

Musselburgh^ the town of the district, is also of very considera- 
ble antiquity, and is mentioned in our national chronicles 800 years 
back. The Anglo-Saxon word Burgh probably fixes its origin 
upon that people. 

Of the original British, who inhabited the district, no traces, as 
we have just said, are now discoverable, save in the names still at- 
tached to one or two places within the parish ; but the Romans 
have left many momiments of their presence, fn bridge, harbour, 
road, and encampment; in altar, bath, and sepulchre. 

Repeated excavations, and casual exposure of ruins, from age 
to age, prove the existence of Inveresk, not only as a Roman mi- 
litary station, but as a Colonia Romana^ or Munidpium, The 
whole northern slope of the hill, bounded by Pinkie-burn on the 
one side, and by the river Esk on the other, appears to have been 
covered over with buildings ; and many circumstances concur in 
assuring us, that the site was one of importance. . Even the spot 
where the Praetorium was built, can be distinctly ascertained to 
have been the apex of the hill, where the church now stands, — its 
fosse, which was visible within' the last fifty years, comprehending 
also the villa to the eastward, now known as Inveresk House. 

In 1 547, a cave and altar were discovered here, and a descrip- 

* Til the vicinity, however, we have tlic British Cuckpcn, Dreghorii, Dalkeith, 
Nidref (Niddry,) Jloslin, &c. 

4 



INVERESK* 255 

tion of them, as seen by Randolph, the English resident at the 
Scottish Court, was transmitted by him to Sir Robert Cecil, af- 
terwards the famous Lord Burleigh, the minister of Queen Eliza* 
beth. The two letters containing this have been since very pro- 
perly preserved in the second volume of the Transactions of the 
Scottish Antiquarian Society ; and in the ^^ Britannia" of Cam- 
den, which was published not long after this period, we find the 
circumstance thus alluded to. 

" A little beyond this (Seton,) the river Eske empties itself 
into the Frith, after running by Borthwick^ which has barons of its 
own name of Hungarian extraction, by Newbottle q. d. New Builds 
inff, anciently a little monastery, now the barony of Mark Kerr, 
by Dalkeith^ lately the pleasant seats of the Earls of Morton, and 
Musselborawy below which, a. d. 1547, when Edward Seymour, 
Duke of Somerset, entered Scotland with a regular army to claim 
the performance of the treaty by which Mary Queen of Scotland 
was engaged to Edward VI. of England, the day proved fatal to 
the youth of the most noble families of Scotland who there fell in 
battle. I cannot here pass over that inscription, which the learn- 
ed J. Napier, in his Commentary on the Apocalypse, mentions to 
have been dug up here, and of which the eminent Sir Peter Young, 
tutor to King James VI., made this more accurate copy : 

APOLLINI 

GRANNO 

Q. LVSIVS 

SAfilNIA 

NVS 

PROG 

AVG 

V. S S L V M. 

Who this Apollo Graunus was, and whence he had this name, 
none of the Society of Antiquaries, that I know of, has yet inform- 
ed us. K I may be allowed to interpose my inferior judgment, I 
should suppose Apollo, called Grannus by the Romans, was the 
saitie whom the Greeks called AiroKXujv Axe^<rexo^ii^, or the long- 
haired; for Isidore calls the long locks of the Goths Granni. But 
this by way of digression."* 

The reference alluded to, by the great Napier of Merchiston, 
is in these words: '* In every part of that empire (the Roman,) 
are there infinite of these temples, idols, and other monuments 

• See Cough's Camden's Britannia, Vol. iii. p. 303-4. 



256 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

erected, and even at Musselburgh, among ourselves in Scotland, 
a foundation of a Roman monument lately found, (now utterlie 
demolished,) bearing this inscription dedicatory, Apollini Granno,** 
&c* 

A second discovery, not less striking, was made in 1783^ during 
the carrying forward of some garden improvements, in the imme- 
diate vicinity of Inveresk House. In removing the soil to the depth 
of three or four feet, the floors and foundations of various build- 
ings were exposed ; and Dr Carlyle, then the incumbent of the 
parish, — a man admirably qualified from his classical zeal and at- 
tainments, — took superintendence of the operations. His account, 
which is clear and succinct, is given in the former Statistical Ac^ 
count; and we have another equally accurate, satisfactory, and fully 
more comprehensive, by James Wedderburne, Esq. of Inveresk, 
in a letter to the well-known antiquary, Mr Adam Cardonnel, of 
the Custom-House. 

A Roman bath of two rooms was then traced. The smaller 
was 9 feet by 4^; the larger 15 by 9; and between these was an 
earthen pipe for the conveyance of water. The floors were co- 
vered with tarras two inches thick, uniformly laid on ; and beneath 
this, were first coarse lime, then gravel, and, lastly, rough unhewn 
flags. The floor was supported on pillars two feet high, some of 
which were of stone, and others of circular bricks. It appeared, 
that the floor of the smaller room had been intended to bear a 
greater heat, — a coarse tarras, ten inches in thickness, being laid 
under the upper layer. The degree of heat used seemed to have 

* Plaine Discoverie, &c. p. 210. Ediii. 1593, 4to. Mr Gough, in his additions 
to Camden, makes the following learned remarks on this curious, but somewhat ob- 
scure subject. 

In illustration of the inscription said to be found at Musselburgh, AKfl^rtao/^vc of 
the Greeks is an epithet given to ApoUo by Homer, IL T. 39 Hym. in ApoL L 
134. Macrob. i. 17. He had long flowing locks, for which the Latin poets also ce- 
lebrate him. But the Granui of the Gauls, which I cannot And in Isidore, were 
curls at the end of those locks, such as Salmasius, Exercit. Plin. 536-763, says the 
Latins called crittet concinnatif 

Capillos inficitis oculos fuligine relinctis, 
Le?atis comulas, grannulatini fronte depictis. 

Comrnodian. Imiruct. 60. 

In favour of the derivation from granuni it may be added, that in Judith x. 3, the 
old Latin has it comam ditcriminavU^ i. e. granuin fecilt &c. 

Breval gives the following inscription in the Duke of VVertembcrg's cabinet at 
Stutgard : 

In honorem O. D. Apollini Granico Julius Victorinus Prefectus ararii pro filio 
suo Lepido. V. S. L. L. M. 

When amplified Uie Musselburgh inscription seems to be — 

Apollini Granico, Quintus Lucius Sabinianus, Proconsul Augustl, votum suscep- 
tum solvit, lubens merito. 

Hermias also wrote of Apollo under this name. Vide Stepban. art. A/uafovic. 



INVERESK. 257 

been occasionally so great, that the pillars were injured by it. A 
quantity of charcoal was discovered on the spot in perfect preser- 
vation.* 

Writing in April 1783, Mr Wedderburn says, " A bowling- 
green westward (from Inveresk House) was made some years ago, 
and floors of the same kind found on levelling the ground. A tree 
being dug up just now, still farther westward by the summer-house, 
discovered large fragments of earthen-ware. 

^* In the road up the hill to the church I have found bricks, 
being lately dug up to make new steps ; and in the church itself 
(St Michael's, since demolished,) some of the Roman bricks are 
built in with the stone. The vaults found in making the road 
were like subterraneous passages only. There has evidently been 
a space of 100 yards long, reaching from the wall of the court to 
the end of the bowling-green, and 23 feet wide, covered with their 
baths, as appears by their water-tight floors, &c. and very proba- 
bly their buildings, 300 yards at least, as appears by their bricks, 
earthen-ware, 8cc found from the road to the church. 

^^ I am informed by the ploughmen, that there are pavements 
all along the whole rid^e to Pinkie- burn, which resist the plough, 
and corn will not grow on it in dry seasons. From all circum- 
stances, Inveresk hill appears to have been a great station." 

After describing the bricks, many of which had been built into 
the walls of St MichaeVs church, and which were fresh and round, 
as if made only months before ; the fragments of earthen- ware 
formed of red clay ; great numbers of clay pipes, each fifteen in- 
ches long, and smoked on the inside ; the cement used in the 
joints of the stones, and in the coarsest tarras, where the lime 
seems to have been used hot and imperfectly slaked, — Mr Wed- 
derburn says, ^' there are fragments of larger earthen vessels, of a 
fire-clay that stands the fire better than any clay at present known 
in England, Stourbridge not excepted. The potters say it is equal 
' to the black crucibles." 

About ten years ago, when the practice of interring at the depth 
of twelve or fourteen feet became common in Inveresk church- 
yard, the grave-diggers came upon a Roman urn, which they un- 
luckily broke to pieces. It was of terrd cottar strongly burnt, and 
glazed without and within, with a surmounting wreath, represent- 

* For a detailed account of this discoTery, the reader may consult original Statis- 
tical Account, Vol. xvi. p. 4 and 5, and Camden *s Britannia, with Gough*8 addi- 
tions. Vol. iii. fol. p. 310-12. NichoUs, London, 1789. 

EDINBURGH. R 



258 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ing alterDately flowers and figures. Part of the fragments are 
yet in the possession of Mr Ritchie, the sculptor here, who, on 
hearing of the circumstance, hastened immediately with his cha- 
racteristic artistical zeal to the spot, only to find, that the other 
portions had been again buried up amid the sand. 

All along the hill of Inveresk, Roman coins have from time to 
time been discovered, and at the laying open of the foundations 
of the Hippocausta in 1783, two medals were found amid the rub- 
bish. The one was of gold, and much defaced, supposed to be 
of Trajan ; the other of copper, with the inscription Diva Faustina^ 
and in perfect preservation. 

With the Romans all things were meant for durability ; they 
seemed to have waged war, however inefficiently, with Eclax Tern-- 
pus. In allusion to the mortar used in the Inveresk ruins, Mr 
Wedderbum says, '^ the mortar which has been applied to the 
outside of the end wall, by way of stucco, is smooth without cracks, 
and has no appearajfce of decay, but adheres well to the smooth 
surface of the stones. The workmen say it is equal to the best in 
common use, but is by no means comparable to that in the heart 
of tlie wall. The only circumstance remarkable is, that there is 
not the least mark of decay, though only from six to ten inches 
under the surface of the earth, which is a loose sandy soil, and 
therefore within reach of frosts, roots of vegetables, &c. The 
circumstance of considerable thickness given to the terrace floor, 
and the large pebbles and bits of brick in it, seems favourable to 
make it water-tight, for no crack can go further than the first bit 
of brick or pebble.'' 

The Shire-haugh, lying immediately below the village of Inver- 
esk, and extending south-west to the base of the hill on which the 
village of Monktonhall stands,* bore, until of late years, many 
strong traces of a Roman encampment, which seems to have ex- 
tended westward to the spot still called Camp-end, in the parish of 
Newton, on the turnpike road from Edinburgh to Dalkeith. From 
the Shire-haugh to the harbour of Fisberrow, there was a Roman 
way, partly remaining in the memory of several people not long 
dead. No vestiges, however, now remain. 

Of the two stone bridges over the £sk, between Musselburgh 
and Fisberrow, the upper is of remote antiquity ; and, alike from 

* The whole of this plain was once comprehended in the Shire-haugh, the rirer at 
that time flowing almost in a line from the mill to Montonhall. It has since bent 
eastward, and thrown the flat to the other side of the stream. 

3 



INVERESK. 269 

its structure, its position, and other corroborating circumstances, 
is in all probability Roman. It is in the direct line from the Prae- 
toriuni at Inveresk to the harbour of Fisherrow ; and, stretching 
from either side of it, were the remains of the causeway just men- 
tioned. It consists of three arches, each of which is fifty feet 
wide, with a spring of only ten feet; and, from several parts of 
the arches approaching almost to a straight line, Dr Carlyle sur- 
mises, that the frame or cover must have sunk during the time of 
building. From the approaches being at this day completely be- 
yond the reach of the tide, although the river is occasionally aflect- 
ed by the sea up to this place, it is evident, that, whatever changes 
may have occurred in the flowing of the Forth, as at Prestonpans 
on the^one side, and at Newhaven on the other, the coast is not 
materially changed along the boundaries of this parish. If the 
bridge evidences that the sea has not encroached upon the har- 
bour, it equally testifies that it has not receded from us. A circum- 
stance afterwards to be alluded to, in our sketch of the antiquities 
of the parish, is we think capable of solution on other grounds. 

Tradition also informs us, that, in digging the foundations of 
many houses in Fisherrow, ruins similar to those discovered at In- 
veresk have been repeatedly exposed ; and from this, as a corro- 
borating circumstance, it is made more probable, that, connected 
with the praetorium and military station here, a municipium, or 
colony of citizens, also peopled the neighbourhood. Traces of 
a Roman causeway, which extended from the harbour of Fisher- 
row to the camp at Sheriffhall, and thence to Borthwick, were in 
many places visible in the memory of man ; while another branch, 
extending westward to the south of Portobello, and thence into 
the parish of Currie, is still, at several points, in remarkable pre- 
servation. The fragment in the parish of Duddingston is well 
known locally, under the vulgarized name of " the Fishwives* 
Causeway."* 

It is a curious fact, that scarcely a Druidical monument remains 
within the limits of the Lothiims ; and Chalmers in his Caledonia 
remarks, that this circumstance plainly intimates the occurrence of 
some decidedly religious events during the obscure ages, imme- 
diately succeeding the abdication of the Roman power. In all pro- 

* When cutting the new line of road over the Calton-hill in 1817, a Roman urn 
was dug up entire. It was exactly of the same shape, pattern, and materials as the 
one broken in Inveresk churchyard since; and of which the fragments are in Mr 
Ritchie's possession. It was purchased by the late Mr Sivright, and was two or 
three years ago disposed of at the posthumous sale of that gentleman's effects. 



266 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

bability he is right in conjecturing, that the intrusion of a Pagan 
people among the Romanized Ottadini, along the southern shore 
of the Forth, during the fifth century, was the cause of destruction 
to the Druidical monuments in those districts.* 

Although the subject is invoWed in great obscurity, there is rea- 
son to believe, that Christianity was preached in East Lothian by 
Baldred,f a disciple of Kentigem, during the sixth century. That 
he then existed, established a religious house at Tyningham, and 
strove to evangelize the adjacent country, there can be no doubt. 

We learn from the venerable Bede, that there was a Saxon mo- 
nastery at Tyningham, dedicated to St Balther, (Smith's edition^ 
231-54,) and that its diocese ultimately comprehended the whole 
extent of East Lothian. We mention the circumstance here for the 
purpose of proving, that Musselburgh existed as a town in the 
seventh century, and was the western boundary of this bishoprick, as 
Simeon of Durham, in describing the country, has these words, 
"et tota terra quae pertinet ad monasterium Sancti Baltheriquodvo- 
catur Tyningimm, a Lambermore usque ad Eicemuth^^ (Inver- 
esk.) This diocese was afterwards known as that of Lindisfarn; 
and was extended over the three Lothians. 

At what time the church of St Michael of Inveresk was found- 
ed, we have no authentic data to prove ; but from the quantity of 
Roman bricks and other ruins used in its construction, it certainly 
laid claim to great antiquity. In 1020, when the Lothians were 
ceded to the King of Scotland, the Eclesia de Muskilburg came 
under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of St Andrews; and in 1176, 
we find from the ancient Taxation that it paid to that see a lai^ger 
assessment than any other church in Mid-Lothiun. j 

* Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 500-1. 

In the grounds of Sir David jM ilne*8 beautiful villa at Inveresk, a monument was 
dug iqi two or three years ago, which seems to bear strong marks of a Druidical ori- 
gin. It is a circular table of stone, covered with a composition of lime and gravely 
supported on freestone pillars. The interior was filled with the teeth of animals, and 
around it were migestic antlers of the deer. What could this be if not a Druidical 
Cromlech $ 

The whole have fortunately been preserved. 

t Keith says, that Baldred was a successor of Kentigem, and a confessor, and 
places his martyrdom on 6th March 608.— In the English Martyrology, it is stated 
to have occurred on 29th March (701.) Dempster in his Menologia Scotis agrees 
with Kdth ; and Simeon of Durham, Lib. ii. c. 2, assigns the same date to the 
event. 

X The passage is perhaps here worthy of transcription. Ecclesia de Muskilbuig, 70 
roercas; ditto de Cranstoun, 60 ; ditto de Creightoun, 30; ditto de Faulaw, 6 ; ditto 
de Looherwort, 40; ditto de Kerynton, 18; ditto de Kocpen, 20; ditto de Clerk- 
ington, 8 ; ditto de Maisterton, 4 ; ditto de Heriot, 90 ; ditto de Monte LaodonisB, 



INVERESK. 261 

From the Chartulary of Dunfermline, we find that David I. — 
the founder of Melrose, Dryburgh, and Holyrood — granted to the 
monks of that abbacy a baronial jurisdiction over the manor of In- 
veresk, the lands of Carbarrin (Carberry,) and Smithton (Smea- 
ton.) In this manorship of Inveresk were comprehended the town 
of Musselburgh, and its port of Fisherrow ; and it is worthy of re- 
mark, that the jurisdiction over these is termed the lordship and 
regality^ 

The collieries and quarries of Inveresk were worked perhaps as 
early as the rei^n of William the Lion ;* and it is ascertained that 
the monks of Newbottle raised coal at Prestongrange, in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood, even before the accession of Alexander 11. 
A charter is still extant, granted by Seyer D'Quincey, Lord of 
the Manor of Tranent, to these monks, for the working of coal ' 
and stone, carbonarium et quararium^ on their lands of Preston, 
westward to the rivulet of Pinkie^ consequently considerably with- 
in the boundaries of the present parish of Inveresk. This char- 
ter must have been signed between 1202 and 1218, as in the lat- 
ter year the grantor set sail for the Holy Land, where he died in 
1219, as we learn from Dugdale. Before the discovery of coal in 
the district, we find, from the Chartulary of Kelso, that Herbert, 
the abbot there, yielded to Reginald D^Bosco, for the yearly pay- 
ment of ten marks of silver, his whole land of Ester- Dodinestun, 
which is the western boundary of the parish of Inveresk, '* cum 
medietate petarie de Camerun" — that is to say, the right of dig- 
ging peats on the lands last mentioned. 

During, the eleventh century, a charter of Malcolm Canmore 
and his Queen Margaret, gifted the manor of Little Inveresk 
(that is Inveresk Proper) to the monks of Dunfermline; and this 
was confirmed by another of David L, who added to it the manor 
of great Inveresk, (that is Mussel burghshire,) comprehending the 
town, with its harbour, mills, fishings, and other pertinents, f 

* Chartulary of Newbottle, 72. 

f Among other i^nu is mentioned, '* omnes rectitudines de omnibus navibus, que 
in portu de Inveresk applicuerint.**— MS. Chart. 

Bnrgum et portum de Musselburgh cum omnibus libertatibus suis ; et Inveresk. 
Ibid. Monast. Scot. Vide also Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 749. 

" The Abbacy of Dunfermline,'* says Mathew of Westminster, ** could lodge three 
sovereign princes with all their retinue,** (Flor. Historian, p. 441, Kd. 1570.) lis 
riches must have been enormous. It was founded and endowed by Margaret, Queen 
of Malcolm Canmore, and there Turgot affirms were '* non pauca et solido ct puro 
auro VBsa, (Vita Margarit. Regin. Scot. Sect. 5.) David I. granted to it " a sixth of 
all the gold found in Fife and Fothriffe." (Chart, de Dunfermline.) It was a place 
of royal sepulture, and its ruins show its original vast extent. — Dalyell<s Frag. In- 
troduc. 



262 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Pope Gregory XL confirmed all these rights and jurisdictions by 
a Bull, dated 1234; and Robert IIL added to these all the new 
customs exigible within the bounds of the burgh. 

Nearly a century and a half, however, before this, Musselburgh 
must have been a place of some importance, as we find that it was 
here, on the 12th of October 1201, that the barons of Scotland 
assembled to swear fealty to the infant son of William the Lion.* 
In 1239, this young prince, afterwards Alexander II., granted a 
right of " libera forestas," or free forestry, over the lands of the 
district, to the same favoured abbacy.f 

From all these charters, the monks of Dunfermline enjoyed a 
baronial jurisdiction over the parish ; and their powers afterwards 
extended to those of a regality. The vicars of Musselburgh were 
appointed by the abbacy; and, in their day and generation, they 
were considered men of consequence, as their signatures, mingled 
with those of the magnates of the land, sufficiently testify. X 
A dispute which occurred early in the thirteenth century, — shortly 
after the charter of Alexander II., • — between the chiefs and their 
nominee, was referred to the Diocesan Bishop, whose dedreet was, 
that the latter should enjoy the small tithes and the offerings at 
the altars of Muscelburg, excepting the fish of every kind, and the 
tithes of the mills belonging to the monks, for which, as an equiva- 
lent, the vicar was to refulid ten merks annually. This decision un-* 
questionably shows, that other places of worship were already in ex- 
istence in the district, and that, in all probability, the shrines of 
** Mary Magdalene" on the one side, and of " Our Lady of Lo- 
retto** on the other, were rife with devotees.§ 

After a life of chivalry, heroism, and devotion to all the best 
interests of his native land, it was here that the renowned 
Randolph, Earl of Murray, the Regent of Scotland, died on the 
20th July 1332. In consequence of preparations by the English 
to invade Scotland, he had assembled an army, and advanced to 
Colbrandspath, on the frontier of Berwickshire, when news of a 
naval armament from the south obliged him to return homewards, 
and provide for the defence of the capital. The tradition of the 

* Chartulary of Melrose, 181. Lord Hailes's Annals, Vol. i. p. 151. 

t MS. Monast. Scoti», Chart. Newbottle, No. 127. 

i In Bagimont^s Roll, as its stood under James V., the vicarage of Musselburgh 
•was taxed at L.5, 6s. 8d. 

§ I1ie distinguished Dr Lee, one of the Chaplains for Scotland, and others, rernem* 
bcr ruins now covered by the sea at Magdalene Bridge, supposed to be those of the 
chape). We are inclined to think otherwise, and that these were only offices apper- 
taining to it« 



.J 



INVERliSK. . 263 

district says, that he had got the length of Walliford, on the east- 
ern confines of the parish, when intelligence was brought to the 
magistrates, that he was dangerously ill. They immediately took 
such measures as they best could to provide for his accoramoda- 
tion, and had him removed on a litter to the nearest house, with- 
in the '* east port" of the burgh. Relays of citizens are said to 
have watched over the great man until he died ;* and every luxu- 
ry that the place could supply is said to have been gratefully offer- 
ed by them. In gratitude for their kind attentions, his nephew 
and successor, the Earl of Marre, requested that they should make 
some request regarding the extension of their municipal privileges^ 
which he would be proud to be the means of extending. Where- 
upon they told him that " they wished nothing ; and were happy 
to have had an opportunity of doing what they considered their 

* The death of the great Randolph has formed a quettio vexata with the Scottish 
historians. That he died here and was buried at Dunfermline is indisputable ( Bo- 
wer*8 Continuat. of Fordun, Vol. ii. p. 300) ; it is the manner of his death which 
has afforded scope for controversy. Two of our best authorities, Hailes and Tytler^ 
are here at issue, — the former distinctly affirming, that, " amidst the excruciating 
pains of a confirmed stonci he ceased not to discharge the duties of his office with ac- 
tivity and vigilance, and expired on the march," {Annait of Scotland^ Vol. ii. p. 162) ; 
whereas the latter maintains, that he died suddenly, without any apparent cause, and 
not without the strongest suspicion of his having been poisoned, {History qfScotlandf 
Vol. ii. p. 10.) 

The two oldest, and therefore likely to be most authentic authorities are on the 
side of Mr Tytler. Barbour was born in 1316, and was fifteen years old when Ran« 
dolph died. In the Bruce, p. 423, we find, 

** Bot syne allace ! puwynt was he ; 
To see hisded6 was great pitie.** 

Winton was bom about 1350, so only eighteen years after the event ; and in his 
Chronicle it is said, 

Hym with venomous fell poyson 

Be destroyed, and fell treasoun, 

For at Wemyss be the se, 

Poytound at afest was he. — Vol. ii. p. 146. 

Fordun (a Heame, p. 1018,) simply mentions the death, without the circumstan- 
ces. His continuator. Bower, however, has this passagc-^speaking of the designs of 
the disinherited barons against the Regent, he says, " £t ideo novam artem confinz- 
erunt, et ut Italici ferunt, hello Tradimento, verius vili effecerunt, ut quidam frater 
Anglicus, religione corruptus, dicto ctutodi familtaris cajtellanva, sibi venenum in vino 
propinaret. Quod et factum est ut supra.'* Lib. xiv. c. 50. 

AH this is surely strong evidence, more especially as Lord Hailps seems to rest his 
scepticism principally on the authority of Hector Boece, a writer by his own admis- 
sion not a little given to romancing. Hector admits both the stone and the poison- 
ing ; but Lord Hailes thinks that he has also furnished circumstances sufficient for 
the confutation of the latter. " In calculum pnesentissima Habere remedia,** writes 
the old author regarding the supposed poisoner, *' nam eo morbo Ranulpus admo- 
dum vexatur.** 

Who can decide, when doctors such as these disagree ? If we admit the traditional 
story which we have given, we must give our verdict for Lord Hailes. It must have 
been a slow poison indeed, that, given at Wemyss, did not operate save at Mussel- 
burgh. The '^ tormina qucdam ventris** may have arisen from some indigestible 
condiment ; but we think it more probable that this great man died of the stone ra- 
ther than of the pretended doctor. 



264 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

duty." The Earl is reported to have here added, ** sure you are 
a set of very honest fellows.^' The request of adopting ^^ Ho- 
nesty'' as the motto of the burgh is said then to have been made, 
and it is retained to this day. Be this as it may, the Earl of Mar 
granted or obtained for the magistrates of Musselburgh the first 
charter, which conferred upon them a variety of local privileges, in 
1340. 



Excepting some ecclesiastical fragments, to be given under the 
head of Antiquities, we have little or nothing of the civil history of 
the district until L544, when the English army, under the Earl of 
Hertford, burned down a great part of the town, together with the 
town-house, and destroyed the celebrated ^' Chapelle of Lauret" 

Three years after this event, Musselburgh became the muster- 
ing place for the Scottish forces. News had arrived of the ap- 
proach of the Duke of Somerset to Newcastle, at the head of an 
army of 14,000 men, including 2000 horse. To oppose this well- 
appointed force, " the fiery cross" had been sent through the 
country, and, in an incredibly short time, not less than 36,000 
men had assembled within two miles of Inveresk, at Edmonston- 
Edge. The English army were at length drawn up on Falside 
Brae, — their right extending oVer the grounds of Walliford and 
Drummore towards the sea ; and, on reconnoitring the position of 
the Scotch, the Protector found it very strong, the steep banks of 
the Esk, then densely wooded, defending them in front ; the mo- 
rass of the Shirehaugh on the left ; and on the right, the village 
of Inveresk, the mounds in the churchyard, and the bridge, all of 
which were defended with cannon. 

On the morning of Friday the 9th of September, Lord Hume, 
with 1500 light horse, appeared on Edge-bucklin Brae, immediately 
beneath them, and rushed forward with such impetuosity, that So- 
merset, on perceiving their numbers, suspected that they were sup- 
ported by some much larger force, and gave strict orders to the 
men to preserve their ranks. Impatient of such provocation, how- 
ever. Lord Grey extorted leave to oppose them, and when within 
a stone's cast of the Scots, he charged them at full speed with 1000 
men-at-arms. The onset was terrible, but the demi-lances and 
barbed steeds of their opponents were more than a match for the 
slight hackneys of the borderers ; and afler a terrible conflict of 
three hours, the greater part of them were cut to pieces, 1300 men 



INVERE3K. 265 

being slain in the sight of the Scottish camp, Lord Hume himself 
severely wounded, and his son taken prisoner.* 

Still the position of the Scottish army was so formidable, that 
they could neither be attacked with advantage, nor brought to 
battle ; and when the Protector was returning from again recon- 
noitring, he was overtaken by a herald from the enemy, the first 
item of whose message was for an exchange of prisoners ; the se- 
cond, allowing retreat to the English without molestation; and the 
thirdy that, on the non-acceptance of these overtures, the Earl of 
Huntly, anxious to spare the effusion of blood, was anxious to en- 
counter the Protector twenty to twenty, ten to ten, or, if he would 
so far honour him, man to man. 

Although these conditions were rejected, it was yet found, after 
consultation with the principal officers, that, if our rulers would 
keep their Queen unfettered by any matrimonial tie until she be- 
came of age, the Protector would consent to retreat from the king- 
dom. This communication from the English being taken as a mark 
of weakness, was straightway rejected, and nothing remained but 
an appeal to arms. The Scots, impatient for the contest, left 
their strong position, and crossed the Esk to meet the English, 
whose fleet, consisting of thirty-five ships of war, with thirty tran- 
sports, was anchored in the bay, and continued pouring cannon- 
shot among them as they crossed the bridge, by which the Master 
of Graham, son of the Earl of Montrose, with many others, was 
slain. To this fire from the sea and the river they were exposed, 
until they gained the cover of Inveresk Brae, and descended east- 
wards through the How-mire^ when they found themselves imme- 
diately in contact with the enemy. We need give no description 
of a battle so disastrous, and so well known. After four hours 
tremendous fighting, in which the English cavalry had in vain at- 
tempted to break through the foot battalions commanded by the 
Earl of Angus, the Highlanders gave themselves up to their plun- 
dering propensities, and were stripping the slain, when a retrograde 
movement was mistaken by them for a flight. The same panic 
seized the borough troops, who threw down their arms, and follow- 
ed the Highlanders. The Scots fled in three difierent ways, — 
some towards Edinburgh, some towards the coast, and some to- 
wards Dalkeith — and on each side the carnage was dreadful. But 
we cannot do better than use the succinct words of quaint old Pat* 

* Patten*8 Account, p. 46-7. Hay ward in Kennct, Vol. ii p. 282. Tytler's His- 
tory, Vol. vi. p. 26-7. 



266 EDINBUU6HSHIRE. 

ten, himself an eyewitness. " With blode and slaughter of ye 
enemie, this chase was continued v miles in length westward. fro 
the place of their standinge, which was in ye fallow feldes of Un- 
dreske, untille Edinborowe parke, and well nigh to the gates of the 
toune itself, and unto Lyeth ; and in breadth nie iiii myle, from 
the Fryth sandes up unto Daketh southwarde. In all whiche space 
the dead bodies lay as thik as a man may notte cattell grasing in 
a full plenished pasture. The ryvere ran al red with blood, soo 
that in the same chase wear counted, as well by sum of oiir men that 
sumwhat diligently did maike it, as by sum of them take prisoners, 
that very much did lament it, to have been slayne aboove xiii 
thousande. In all thys x^umpos of grounde, what with weapons, 
armes, handes, legges, heddes, blood, and dead bodyes, their flight 
mought have easily been tracted to every of their iii refuges."* 

After the English army had pursued the Scots for five hours, they 
found themselves beside their camp on Edmonston-Edge, where 
they mustered, and gave a shout so shrill and piercing, as to be heard 
on the streets of the capital. But the evening being now advanced^ 
they again retired eastward, and, as Patten says, ^< This night with 
great gladnes and thankesgiving to God, (as good cause we had,) 
about vii of the clock we pitched our campe at Edgbuklyng Brae, 
besyde Pinkersclough, and a mile beyond the place we camped at 
afore."f We make this circumstantial extract to show, that the 
ranges of stone-cofiins lately exposed all along this ridge werecon- 
nected with the events of this bloody day ; as the same diaris^ 
continuing his narration, states, that, ^^ in the morenyng, a great 
sort of us rode to the place of onset, whear our me lay slayn, and 
what by gentleme for their frendes, and servants for their masters, 
al of the ye wear known to be ours wear buried." \ Sir John 
Hope of Pinkie has planted a copsewood where the ranges of 
stone-coffins were found here, to mark out (he lines. 

This battle, more disastrous to Scotland than any since Flod- 
den, was fought on the 10th of September. In the February of 
the following year, Lord Grey, at the head of a powerful force^ 
again entered Scotland, and, carrying his ravages through the 
Merse and Mid-Lothian, razed the towns of Dalkeith and Mus- 
8elburgh.§ On this occasion all the archives and charters of the 
burgh were taken away or destroyed. The oldest now extant, 

* Patten*s Expedicioun, p. 67-8. f Ibid. p. 73. 

\ Ibid. p. 78. § Tytler*s History of Scotland, Vol. vi. p. 49. 



INVERESK. 267 

therefore, are, a transumpt of a charter of the d4th of David II., 
and one granted on the J 1th December 1562, by Robert, Com- 
mendator of Dunfermline, with consent of the \vho1e mem- 
bers of the convent. It states, that ^* the title-deeds belong- 
ing to the burgh were burnt by their enemies, the English, after 
the fatal battle of Pinkie, therefore they of new grant, dispone, and 
confirm, to the present baillies, community, and inhabitants of 
Musselburgh, and to their successors, &c."* 

Four months after this destruction of the town by Lord Grey, 
6000 French troops landed at Leith, under the command of An- 
drew de Montalembert, Sieur D'Esse, including 3000 Germans, 
under the Rhinegrave, and a body of Italians ; and he immediate- 
ly marched them eastward, again to offer battle to the English on 
the field of Pinkie. The English, however, retired before his su- 
perior forces to Haddington, where he unsuccessfully besieged 
them in the autumn of the same year. Meantime he employed 
his troops in throwing up some works at Inveresk, as an advanced 
post for Edinburgh and Leith ; the Privy- Council having erected 
a fort at the same place in the January preceding, as may be seen 
by their unprinted records. 

Immediately adjoining Falside Brae rises Carberry Hill. It 
was here that, on the 15th June 1567, Queen Mary and Both- 
well advanced to meet Morton, Maitland of Lethington, and the 
confederated Lords in battle. The result is well known ; Bothwell 
fled, and escaped into exile, while Mary surrendered herself, and was 
afterwards shut up in Lochleven Castle. The scene is altogether one 
of great beauty and interest ; nor is that interest lessened by these 
historical associations. 

Shortly after the Reformation, the regality of Musselburgh, 
with the patronage of the church of St Michael, and of the va- 
rious chaplainries in the parish, was disjoined from the Abbacy of 
Dunfermline, and conferred by James VL on his Chancellor, 
Lord Thirlstane, the progenitor of the Earls of Lauderdale. 
Many disputes afterwards occurred between this nobleman and 
Queen Anne of Denmark, the wife of ^* the Merry Monarch," re- 
garding this grant, the whole lands and rights of the abbacy hav- 
ing been conferred upon her as a marriage dowry. The proprie- 
tor, however, contended that it had, ab ante^ been gifted to him, 
and his defence being sustained, the whole descended to his &- 

• Vide former Statistical Account by Dr Carlyle, p. 26. 



268 EDINfiUKGHSHIRE. 

niily. In September 1649, John, the Earl of Lauderdale, was 
served heir to his father in this lordship and regality, with supe- 
riority over the vassals of the same lordship ^^ et jure regalitatis 
ejnsdem."* 

In the year following, 1650, Musselburgh was taken possession 
of by Oliver Cromwell, who encamped part of his foot on Mus- 
selburgh Links, where they remained for nearly two months— *the 
site of his own tent being still pointed out opposite Linkfield 
House. During the same time, the church of luveresk, being 
cleared of its sittings, was made use of as a cavalry barracks, and 
the mounds in the churchyard were mounted with cannon. On 
the demolition of the venerable shrine dedicated to St Michael, a 
quantity of gunpowder, said to have been deposited on this occa- 
sion, was found in a vault beneath. 

Before the commencement of the seventeenthjcentury, the lord- 
ship of Inveresk, which had belonged to the Dicksons of Carber- 
ry, was sold by the then proprietor, Sir Robert, to Anne, Duchess 
of Monmouth and Buccleuch; and in 1709, the regality of Mus- 
selburgh was also purchased by the same Noble lady, from the 
Earl of Lauderdale. Certain parts, however, of this regality and 
parish have been since disjoined, and annexed to Cranston, New- 
ton, and Dalkeith. We should also add, in alluding to the supe- 
riority of the Lauderdale family over Musselburgh, that, in 1670, 
the Duke confirmed to the burgh all its ancient rights and privile- 
ges by a charter, which is still carefully preserved in the charter- 
room of the town-hall. The Lordship of the parish of Inveresk, 
as well as its ecclesiastical patronage, still remains in the hands of 
the Noble family of Buccleuch. 

The ancient feudal system of ^' the Riding of the Marches'' 
by the burgesses, still holds here, once within the- fifty years. They 
appear mounted on horseback, and armed with swords. The se- 
ven incorporated trades, each headed by its captain, follow in the 
train of the magistrates and town-council ; the whole cavalcade 
being preceded by the town-ofiicers, with their ancient Brabant 
spears, and a champion armed cap-a-pie. A gratuity is also al- 
lowed to a minstrel, who attends at the succeeding feast, and re- 
cites in verse the glories of the pageantry. Since the commence- 
ment of the present century, these marches have been twice rid- 

* Inquis. Spedal, xx. 150. 

From a MS. in the Royal Exchequer we find that Musselburgh paid of old to that 
fund the yearly sum of L. 2. 



INVERESK. 269 

den— once on the hallowed occasion of the Jubilee commemora- 
tive of the auspicious reign of George III.) in 1809, and again in 
1830.» 

We ought to have mentioned in its proper place, that, in 1682, 
Musselburgh was erected into a royal burgh by a charter under 
the Great Seal ; but the Magistrates of Edinburgh, having enter- 
ed into a compromise with the Magistrates here, a decreet of re- 
duction of that charter was obtained from the Privy- Council, on 
the dOth November of the same year. From that time it has ex- 
isted as a free burgh of regality, and exercised all the rights of a 
royal one, — save that of sending a Member to Parliament ; which 
it also obtained at the great national change in 1832, when it was 
joined in its Parliamentary privileges with Leith and Portobello. 
Its ancient council consisted of eighteen members, ten from Mus- 
selburgh and eight from Fisherrow, and from them two bailies and a 
treasurer were annually elected. Two councillors went out an- 
nually by vote of the council, and their places were supplied by 
other two chosen in the same manner. By their title-deeds the 
magistrates are -empowered to hold a Court of Record, and issue 
precepts both on their decrees and registrations. They are also 
empowered to grant infeftments by hasp and staple more burgi ; 
only their clerk is not entitled to a protocol record of these, as in 
royal burghs. 

The revenues of the town are from feu-duties paid by the pro- 
prietors of all the houses within its territories ; from its lands, 
which are considerable ; from its quarries, its mills, and its har- 
bour-duties. The revenue derived from these sources is not less 
than L. 2300 annually. From this ample fund all public expen- 
ses are liquidated — the streets are lighted and paved from it— 
and the inhabitants have no local burdens. 

On the passing of the Reform Bill — which, by the bye, is said 
to have been drawn up by Mr Thomas Drummond, then Secre- 
tory to Lord Althorpe, who received his education at Mussel- 
burgh — the set of the Burgh was altered ; and it is now governed 
by a Provost, with a Town- Council of twelve, out of which two 
bailies and a treasurer are chosen. The first provost of the burgh 
under the new regime was William Aitchison, Esq. of Drummore, 

* Until within the last ten or fifteen yean, on the annual payment of their rent 
to the agent of the Duke of Buocleuch, an entertainment was given by the magis- 
trates, under the title of *' the Hen Feast** It derived this title from the conside- 
ration, that '* the Kain fowls" due by the lessees of the burgh mills were served up 
on this occasion. 



270 EDlNBURGHSUlitE. 

whoy on the expiry of his three years of office, was succeeded by 
Sir John Hope, Bart., of Craighall. Alexander Vernor, Esq. 
now holds the office. 

It may be noted, as a circumstance not unworthy of record, 
that, on the election immediately succeeding the passing of the 
Reform Bill, Musselburgh was the only town in Scotland, except- 
ing Queensferry, that returned a majority of Conservative coun- 
cillors. 

By the treasurer's accounts for 1839, it was found that the 
debts of the burgh amounted to L. 16,406, 1 4s. 4d., and its reve- 
nue for the twelve months preceding to L. 2244, Is. 2d. 

Antiquities. — At the epoch of record, there existed two manors, 
the one entitled Great, and the other Little Inveresk. The lat- 
ter was granted by Malcolm Canmore and his Queen Margaret to 
the monks of Dunfermline; and this grant was confirmed by Da- 
vid I., who added a donation of Great Inveresk, with the mill, the 
fishing, the church of St Michael, and other pertinents. 

The church is thus mentioned by Chalmers : " The church 
of Inveresk was dedicated to St Michael the Archangel. It was, 
in early times, from its location, and populous parish, of great 
value, and was rated in the ancient Taxation by the name of Mus- 
cilburg, at 70 merks. The monks enjoyed the revenues of the 
parsonage, while the cure was served by a vicar. Even the vicars 
of Muscilburg appear as witnesses to many charters, among men 
of consequence." 

In the church of Inveresk there were several altars with their 
chaplains, who were endowed for performing at them their appro* 
priate worship.* To this mother church various chapels in the 
parish were subordinate; and, among others, the celebrated cha- 
pel oi our Lady of Loretto^ with the hermit's cell adjoining; the 
chapel dedicated to Mary Magdalene, on the bank of the Niddry- 
burn,f and a third at the head of Market- Street, where the ruins of 
an Alms-house still remain. The venerable church of St Michael,:^ 
which continued as a place of worship till J 804, was then ta- 



* In Bagimont*8 ro1l» as it stood under James V., the vicarage of Muscelburg 
taxed at L. 6, 6s. 8d. This vicarage is also recorded in the Archbishop*s rent-roll 
1347. In 1475, Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar gave an annual rent often marks 
out of the lands of Cameron to a chaplain in Musselburgh church, for such appro- 
priate worship. MS. Donationt. 

j- Prom this chapel Magdalene Bridge, and Magdalene Pans derived, and still re- 
tain their names. 

f In this church the celebrated Wishart performed divine service a short time 
prior to his martyrdom. 



INVERESK. . 271 

ken down, and a modern structure, much inferior in architectural 
beauty, was reared on its site. Of the chapel of Loretto, to which 
pilgrimages were made on foot by kings, nothing remains but a 
small burial vault ; and a thick grove now usurps the bank, where 
votaries knelt at the shrine of Mary Magdalene. 

The mill granted to the monks of Dunfermline by David I. 
stood at the top of the Shire-haugh, and had its hereditary 
miller attached to it.* It was burned down in 1827 ; and its site, 
with the banks of the £sk upward on the eastern side, was sold in 
the following year by the magistrates of Musselburgh to the pre- 
sent Duke of Buccleuch. The mill itself lay on the slope of the 
bank by the road side, and an ancient bridge of one arch spanned 
the mill-lead. To the north of it was the miller's house, a plea- 
sant mansion of two stories, and at either side of it were minor 
domiciles for his assistants. A parapet of stone enclosed the 
whole, together with their gardens; and some venerable ashes 
and elms spoke of bygone centuries. The boundary walls of 
Dalkeith park now encircle the spot, and no vestiges of the build- 
ings remain. 

When the plough was first here employed in agriculture, we 
have no authentic record, but most assuredly this took place pre- 
vious to 1070,— ^the commencement of the Scoto-Saxon dynasty. 
The greater proportion by far, however, of the district was cover- 
ed with woods, affording shelter and pasturage for flocks and herds, 
besides multitudes of wild game; and from the MS. Monast. 
Scotise, we learn, that Alexander II. granted a free warren 
to the monks of Dunfermline through their lands of Musselburgh, 
prohibiting any one from hunting or trespassing there, under 
a penalty of L. 10. In those ages it was an established right 
of the clergyman to enjoy common of pasturage throughout his 
own parish. 

We have already mentioned the Roman roads traversing the 
parish of Inveresk ; and these seem to have continued long there, 
and throughout the country, as the only public means of communi- 

* In the Inquis. Special xv. 69, we find that, in June 1636, Thomas Smith was 
served heir to his father, a burgess of Musselburgh, in two oxgates of the lands of In- 
veresk, two and a-half acres in the moor at Inveresk, and a tenement in Inveresk, to- 
gether with the office of hereditary miller of the mill called the ^ire mill, within the 
limits of Inveresk ; with the mill acre ; also to the sixth part of the four com^mtUs 
of Mtt$telhurgh»hire ; and to the sixth part of the haughy near the said shire mill. 

The present tea-mill of Musselburgh was one of the earliest works of that celebrat* 
ed engineer, the late Sir .lohn Rennie. 

f Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 725. 



272 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

cation ; but^ by the charter of David L| already more than 
once referred to, and which was afterwards confirmed by a Bull of 
Pope Gregory IX* in 1234) the magistrates of Musselburgh had 
the right given them of levying a toll at the western extremity 
of the parish, for the purpose of upholding the Roman bridge over 
the £sk, and repairing the streets of Musselbui^h.* This toll is 
only exigible on beasts of burden, flocks and herds, and is at this 
moment in operation at Magdalen Bridge, under the name of the 
Gentes custom. How this appellation was acquired, tradition saith 
not, unless we lean to the vague report that the first tackswo- 
man was named Janet, and that familiarity afterwards changed the 
same from Janet to Janety, and thence more remotely to Gente. 
We all remember the old ballad of " The Bonny Hynd." 

They call me Jack when I*m abroad ; 

Sometimes they call mejgJohn ; 
But when I'm in my father's hover 

Jock Randal is my name.*'i* 

From this it is evident, that wheel-carriages were not in com- 
mon use at this period, either here or elsewhere in Scotland ; yet 
are these mentioned not only by the same illustrious King in his 
charter of Holyrood, but repeatedly for the next century, in the 
chartularies of the different monasteries. 

From the same curious sources, we learn, that, during the Scoto- 
Saxon period, king's highways were formed in various parts of the 
country. Gervaise, the Abbot of Newbottle, mentions a certain 
road, which was called Derstrette^ near Golden, in the district of 
Inveresk ;j: and under Alexander IIL Sir Hugh Riddel alludes 
to the Regia Via, leading from Ford to the same monastery. 
The king's highway from Newbottle to Edinburgh is mentioned 
in a charter of 125d.§ 

The celebrated chapel dedicated to Our Lady of LorettOy stood 
beyond the eastern gate of Musselburgh, and on the margin of 
the links ; but we have no authentic accounts as to the time of its 
erection. Pilgrimages from all parts of the country were perform- 
ed to this shrine. According to Keith, (280,) it was connected 
. with the Nunnery of Sciennes, in the south wing of Edinburgh ; 
and Ggugh, the antiquarian, says regarding'it, that pregnant-women 
sent handsome presents of money accompanying their child-bed 

* In 1597 the Parliament of Scotland passed an act for repairing the brig of Mus- 
selburgh. It is unprinted. There was also another in 1661 ** for an imposition at 
the brig of Musselburgh.** 

t See Border Mintrelsy, Vol. iii. p. 310, bst edition. 

\ Chart. Newbottle, 16a § Idem, 16. 



INVERESK. 273 

linen, Which latter was consecrated to promote their safe and easy 
recovery.* The celebrity of the place was upheld by the residence 
of a hermit, who inhabited a cell adjoining the chapel, and by the 
pretended performance of miracles. So well for a time did the 
jugglery succeed, that at the commencement of the sixteenth cen* 
tury, it was one of the most noted shrines in Scotland ; and we 
learn from Lesley, (442,) that in August 1530, James V. perform- 
ed a pilgrimage from Stirling to it, on foot, before setting sail for 
France, to woo and win a partner for his throne. Time, however, 
brought out, that the fervour of religious zeal was here often al- 
loyed by the admixture of baser • feelings, and the satiric lash of 

<' Sir David Lyndsay of the Mount, 
Lord Lion King at Arms,** 

was directed with his usual pith and power, against the pro&na- 
tions, which it is to be feared often took place here, from the un- 
restrained meetings of the young of both sexes.-f- 

In 1544, the English army under the Earl of Hertford, which 
had come down by sea to Leith, returned home by land ; and the 
account of the late expedition given by " a frende of Hys" } con- 
cludes by adding the names of the chiefe borrowghes, castelles, 
and tounes, brente and desolated by ye King'^s army, beynge late 
in Scotlande, besydes a great numbre of villages; pyles, and stedes, 
which I cannot name." The fifth entry in this precious list is as 
follows. " Parte of Musskelborowe tovme^ we the chapel of our Lady 
ofLauret/*§ In this conflagration the council hall and jail of the 
burgh were laid in ruins, and the ancient charters of David I. and 
Pope Gregory IX. were destroyed. The spire alone seems to 
have escaped, the dial-plate of its ancient and primitive clock still 
bearing the inscription of 1496. || 

* Gough^s Camden*s Britannia, fol. Vol. iii. p. 310. 

f That the Hermit of Loretto was a notable man in his day is evident from the 
circumstance of his having a satire addressed to him by Alexander, Earl of Glencaim» 
exposing the hypocrisy of the Roman Catholic clergy. It is entitled, *' jlne Epuliil 
direct fra the halie Hermeit of AlareU^ to his Bretfiren, the Gray Friarsy''* and thus be- 
gins, 

*' I, Thomas Hermeit in Lareit, 

Sanct Francis Ordour do hairtilie greiV* &c 

See as quoted in Knox's History of Reformation, fol. 24-25, £din. 1792. 

X Vide Oolyell's Fragments of Scottish History, p. IL 

$ We are enabled to form some idea of the devastation committed by this army on 
Its march to England, from the following extract from Hayne*s State Papers, p. 49 : 
'' Towns, towers, stedes, barnekyns, paryshe-churches, bastel- houses, cast down or 
burnt, J 92; Scots slain, 403; prisoners uken, 816; noli, 10,386; sheep, 12,492; 
nags and geldings, 1296 ; goats, 200 ; bolls of corn, 850 ; insight gear, I. e, house* 
hold furniture, not reckoned.'* 

II The clock is said to have been a present to the town from the States of Holland, 
on account of the extent of trade transacted with that country. A brass plate, noti- 

EDINB URGH. S 



274 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

The chapel of Loretto underwent a speedy repair, but what 
war and wasting fire had spared was soon destined to utter demo- 
lition in the zeal of the Reformation ; and in 1590, the materials 
of that edifice, to which so many thousand pilgrimages had for 
centuries been made, were carried away for the construction of the 
present Tolbooth, adjoining the more modern Town-hali and 
Assembly Room. Dr Carlyle r^narks * that *^ this is said to 
have been the first religious house in Scotland whose ruins were 
applied to an unhallowed use, for which the good people of Mus- 
selburgh are said to have been annually excommunicated^ till very 
lately, at Rome.'' 

Of this building, which must have been of considerable dimen- 
sions, no vestige now remains, save a cell measuring 12 feet by 10, 
covered by a circular wooded mount. In the roof is inserted a 
strong iron bar, with an oaken pulley attached, but for what pur- 
pose seems doubtful. In 1831, the present proprietor of the villa 
of Loretto, the Rev. Thomas Langhorne, caused part of the 
earthen floor to be dug up, when a number of human skulls were 
discovered, some of which were in complete preservation, and re- 
main so. Over the entrance is an antique carved stone, but from 
the date on it, 1634, it must have been placed there at a period 
subsequent to the destruction of <^ the chapelle of Lauret." The 
present villa of Loretto, which is extensive and commodious, ap- 
pears to have been built during the last century, and is surrounded 
by delightful gardens and orchards. 

The great Randolph, Earl of Murray, the compatriot and bosom 
friend of Douglas, so celebrated in his history as *' the good Lord 
James," and the second in command under Robert the Bruce at 
the battle of Bannockburn, died in a house near the East Port of 
the town, on the south side of the street. It consisted of two rooms 
on the ground floor, with arched roofs. Each of these apartments 
was 14 feet square, and the arch 8 feet from the floor. This ve- 
nerable domicile, which existed at the era of the last Statistical 
Account, was demolished about thirty years ago, and its site is now 
occupied by the Aitcheson's Haven Operative Masonic Lodge.'f* 

fying Uiis circuxnstanoe, and attached to the work, was stolen away a good many years 
ago, supposed to be by the person who had the charge of cleaning the machinery. Tha 
work is still in good presenration. 

* Vide former Statistical Account, Vol. xyi. p. 6. 

f Morrison's Haven is situated immediately boyond the eastern boundary of the 
parish, and its history, as Chalmers sajs, may be given in a few words : ** In \SS!^, 
James V. empowered the monks of Newbottle, the discoverers of coal iathe same vi- 
cinity, to construct a port within their own lands of Prestongrange. They erected 



INVEHESK. 275 

Three years after Lord Hertford's expedition, Scotland was. 
again invaded by the Duke of Somerset, the Lord Protector of 
England, during the minority of Edward VL In the centre of a 
circle of trees, at the eastern extremity of the grounds of Esk- 
grove, and opposite to Pinkie burn, a square pillar, surmounted 
by an antique stone, representing a fleur de lis, marks the spot 
where the royal tent was pitched, and bears the following inscription : 

'< The Protector, Duke of Somerset, 
Encamped here, 9th September 
1547." 

The late Lord Eskgrove caused to be erected near the same 
spot a metallic statue, emblematic of England, This was much 
destroyed by idle boys, and has since been removed. 

In the church^yard of Inveresk there is a mound standing, which 
would afford ample field for antiquarian disquisition, but our limits 
restrict us to a few brief remarks. Its position is to the north- 
west of the church, and during last century a similar mound to the 
north-east was removed. What was the origin of these mounds, 
whose antiquity is indisputable ? 

Frotn having been traditionally named *' Oliver's Mounts" by 
the common people, Mr Robert Chambers, in his laborious and 
excellent Gazetteer of Scotland, sets them down in the article 
^' Inveresk,'^ as having been thrown up by Cromwell, who was 
known to have used the church of St Michael as a cavalry sta- 
tion. This, however, is disproved by our finding them marked in 
the rude diagrams in Patten's account of the Duke of Somerset's 
Expedition, — and it will not do to quarrel with his placing them 
on the south side of the church ; (he places the chapel of Loretto 
to the west of the river instead of to the east) as he distinctly 
mentions them as " the mounds in the church-yard." By this is 
evidently implied, that they were there when he reached the 
place ; and although the Duke afterwards used them to defend 
the river at the thoroughfare by the bridge, which they command- 
ed, no mention is made by Patten of his having thrown them up, 
although he is most circumstantial in all his details. The 
fact is, that he could not have done so, as the English army, which 

a harbour which was called Newhaven ; and this name was changed to Aitcheson's 
Haven, and afterwards obtained the name of Morrison's Haven, from the succeeding 
proprietors at the commencement of the seventeenth oentnry." The estates of Goaford 
and Gulane, as well as the lands in the neighbourhood of this port, belonged to the 
&mily of Aitcheson, which afterwards went over to Ireland. Its present representa- 
tive is Earl Gosford, the late Governor of Lower Canada. How the lodg^ came 
to be localized in Musselburgh is doubtful. 



276 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

was encamped at Drummore and Wallyford, only advanced on the 
morning of t-he day preceding the fatal battle of Pinkie, from Fal* 
side brae, and had not penetrated so far westward till the eve of 
conflict. Patten's words are curious, and are these : ^ Fro this 
hil of Fauxside Bray descended my Liordes Grace, my Lord Lieu- 
tenant, and anoolher along before their cape, within les than ii. 
flightshottes into a lane or strete of a xxx foot brode, fenced on 
either side with a wall of turf an elle of height : whiche wey did 
lead straigh northwarde, and nie to a church called Saint Mighels 
of Undreske, stondinge upon a mean rising hill somewhat higher 
than the site of their campe."* He afterwards proceeds thus : ^* In 
ye night of this dai, my Lords Grace appolted yt early in ye next 
morning part of our ordinance should be planted in the lane I spake 
of, under ye turf wall next to their campe ; and sum also to be set 
npo the hill nie to Undreske church,**^ After reconnoitring on the 
day preceding the battle. Patten expressly says after the first pas- 
sage here quoted : '^ Thus this viewed, they toke their returne di- 
rectly homeward to our tetes at whom in ye way ye Scottes did 
often shoot." These tents were two miles to the east, on Falside 
Brae. 

That the mounts in the church-yard, therefore, were not erected 
by Oliver Cromwell is demonstrable ; because they are set down 
in Patten's Diary ; and that they were not thrown up at that time 
by the Duke of Somerset, is equally evident, for he did not gain 
possession of them till some time after the commencement of the 
battle. " We cam on spedily," quoth Patten, ** a both sydes, 
neither as thento ony whit (I dare saye) ware of other's entent: 
but ye Scots indede we a rounder pace : Betzent the ii. hillockes 
betwixt us and the churchy thei moustred somwhat brim in oureyes^ 
at whoom, as they stayed thear a while, our galley shot of, and 
slew the Master of Greym with a five-and-twenty nere by him."J 

We must therefore find a more ancient date for these mounds, 
and somewhat incline to the belief of Lord Hailes that they were 
Roman in their origin. That bones have been found ten or eleven 
feet below the surface is but an inconclusive argument against this 
supposition ; while, on the other hand, we have heard, that in the 
course of sepulture vestiges of stone walls have been come upon, 
by the edge of this rampart, which not improbably belong to the 

* Dalyeirs Fragments. Patten*s Expedition of his Grace the Duke of Somerset, 
p. 48. 

t Ibid, p. 52. • Diary, p. 54-5. 



INVERESK. 277 

Roman wall, as stated in Mr Wedderburn's Account, to have run 
along the whole face of the northern ridge of the hill. 

Nor, for these reasons, can these questionable mounds have be- 
longed to the fort raised at Inveresk by the French commander 
Desse, for he did not occupy the station till the June of the suc- 
ceeding year, 1548. Where the fort of Desse stood, although it 
must necessarily have been in the immediate vicinity, we have no 
means of now ascertaining — but it should be mentioned, that while 
some old people called this rampart Oliver's Moundy others gave 
it the appellation of Dess^s Work.* These works at Inveresk 
were thrown up as an advanced post for the protection of Leith 
and Edinburgh, as has been before stated. 

Previous to the battle of Pinkie, the Roman bridge was fortiBed 
by the Scottish General, who had its gate defended by artillery* 
The village of Inveresk was surrounded by turf walls a yard high, 
along which ranges of small cannon were placed. The sea was 
the defence of Musselburgh on the north from a land army ; and 
a strong gate secured it on the east. It was thus rendered a posi- 
tion of some strength, and was the only town in the east of Scot- 
land, except Dunbar, that offered any determined resistance to the 
approach of Cromwell.f 

Stone coffins have at various times been exposed throughout the 
parish in the operations of agriculture. About sixteen years ago, 
in cutting the new line of London road, through the eastern shoul- 
der of Edgebucklin Brae, at the foot of Musselburgh Links, nu- 
merous ranges of skeletons were come upon, enclosed in slabs of 
stone similar to that found in the adjoining quarries, which have 
been worked for the last 600 years. They were about four feet 
from the surface, and laid down without«much apparent regard to 
order.j: During last summer, similar ranges of stone coffins were 

* On the 10th of January 1548-9, the Privy-Council ordered a fort to be built at 
Inveretk. The town of Edinburgh was directed to furnish 300 workmen, with pro- 
per tools for six days. The same council ordered, that every plough of eight oxen, 
between Linlithgow and Haddington, should furnisli a man, properly provided with 
entrenching tools, during the same time of six days, and every patch plough to fur- 
nish two men, under pain of forty shillings.— (MS. Extracts from the Privy- Coun. 
c\\ Records. Keith's Appendix, 57.) — In the governor and council's answer, on the 
22d April 1550, to the French Memorial, they intimated that, to save charges, the 
fort of Inveresk would be kept by the Abbot of Dunfermline, upon caution.---(See 
Caledonia, Vol. ii, p. 620.) 

f Vide ^* The History of the Revolutions in England under the Family of the 
Stuarts, from the year 1603 to 1690.*" By F. J. D'Orleans, of the Society of Jesus, 
translated from the French original, to which is prefixed an Introduction, by Lau- 
rence Echard, M. A., Archdeacon of Stowe, 1722, p. 146. 

:^ In Westminster Abbey, near Poet's Corner, is a superb monument erected to 
the memory of one of the Thynne family, an ancestor of the Marquis of Bath, who 



278 EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

exposed in the trenching of a field in the immediate neighbour- 
hood of Newfarm, above Smeaton, and many bones were also dis- 
covered in them^ in considerable preservation.* 

We may mention here, as a circumstance not generally knowo, 
the name not being alluded to in the minute details either of Bir- 
rel or Patten — that Sir William Cecil, afterwards the famous Lord 
Burleigh, was present with his munificent patron Somerset^ at the 
battle of Musselburgh, on which occasion, says one of his biogra- 
phers, he *^ was only saved from inevitable destruction by the ge- 
nerous interposition of a friend, who pushed him out of the level of 
a cannon, and had his own arm shattered by the ball, which must 
otherwise have passed through Cecil's body." 

When levelling a bank at Pinkie-burn, about six years ago, im- 
mediately to the east of the streamlet, the Rev. Mr Watson of 
that place found great quantities of bones imbedded in the soil. 
These seemed to be chiefly the bones of horses ; and from the 
principal scene of conflict having been in the How^Mire^ imme- 
diately to the east, the Scottish cavalry had retreated down the 
precipitous banks of the streamlet, along which, as tradition re- 
ports, so many perished, that its waters were tinctured with blood 
for three days. 

Edgebucklin Brae, on which now stands the farmstead of Pinkie 
Mains, is about half a mile within the eastern boundary of the pa« 
rish of Inveresk. It is also the limit to the east which command- 
ed the personal attendance of the Archer Guard of the Scottish 
Kings, as Cramond Bridge was in the opposite direction. 

Within a mile from the principal scene of action at the battle 
of Pinkie, which, according to the detailed and circumstantial ac- 
count of Patten, was *^ in the fallow feldes above Undreske,^ is si- 
tuated the manor of Carberry. 

The house of Carberry is ancient, comparatively speaking, and 
has all the marks of a baronial mansion ; but its date is not ascer- 
tained. That it existed long before the battle may be argued, 
from the under storey being strongly arched, and lined with oak 
pannelling. The division now used as a kitchen has all the ap- 
pearance of a keep for the lodgment of prisoners. That it was a 
considerable mansion-house in the sixteenth century is certain ; 
and was the property of Mr Hugh Rigg, an advocate, and distin- 
guished public character at the time, who is mentioned in Knox's 

was slain here. The inscription bears, that his body was carried home to Englatfd 
by his fellow soldiers, and there buried. 
• Vide MS. 

4 



INVERESK. 279 

History, Book First (a. d. 1534,) as evidencing the mental agonies 
of Cardinal Beaton^ after that prelate had condemned many of the 
Reformers to the flames ; and also by Pitscottie, as being one of 
the four to whom the Governor of Scotland communicated the 
overtures of the Duke of Somerseti immediately previous to the 
battle of Pinkie.* 

The House of Carberry — like those of Elphinstone and Fal- 
side, immediately adjoining — had been originally built as much for 
defence as accommodation : but about twenty years ago, it under- 
went a thorough repair, and an adaptation to the peaceable com- 
forts of modern times. The bartizan is characterized by the an- 
tique quaintness of its mouldings, and its garniture of ^^ winged 
cherubs ;" and in the garden, immediately behind the south side 
of the building, ^^ a dial stone, aged and green," bears the date of 
1579. Carberry is beautifully situated on the northern slope of 
the hill, embosomed amid its orchards, and venerable groves of 
oak, chestnut, and beech, commanding a noble prospect to the 
westward, and also of the Frith of Forth. Immediately above is 
the peak of the^ hill from which Queen Mary witnessed the ap« 
proach of the congregated Barons ; and the stone is still point- 
ed out on which she rested, while holding a conference with Kirk- 
aldy of Grange, immediately after she had parted with Bothwell 
for"the last time. I'he spot is still called the " Queen's Seat," 
and is marked out by a coppice, planted by the late John Fullar- 
(on, Esq. 

By several entries in the " Inquisitiones Speciales," we find that 
the property of Carberry remained for a long time in the family 
of Rigg,^ which was succeeded by that of Dickson, and then by 
that of Fullarton. It is now in the possession of J. F. Elphin- 
stone, Esq., who succeeded in right of his grandmother. 

Nor of the origin of Pinkie House have we any authentic 

^ The words of Pitscottie are these : — " These letters coming to the Governor, he 
revealed the tame only to his brother John, Archbishop of St Andrews, George Dun, 
Abbot of.Dunfermiing, Archibald Beaton, and Mr Hugh Rigg of Carbary, b^ whose 
advice he concealed the Frotcctor*s letters and reasonable offers from the nobility, for 
fear lest' they embraced them.** P. 853. 

It is not a little singular that the battle-fields of Carberry, Boslln, Pinkie, and 
Prestonpans, are each within sight of the other, — and that the extremities of the 
whole are not more than eiffht miles distant, as the crow flies. 

{ On the 29tb January 1600, we find *< Magister Quintigernus Rig, Jittres Jaco- 
bi Rig de Carbarry, patria^ in tenemento in burgo de Edinburgh. £. L. 20.*' And 
in the account of the parish given by the Rev. Adam Colt, minister in 1627, pub- 
lished in the Maitland Club books, we find the following statement : *^ Thir landis 
pertenis to James Rig of Carbarrie, and ar in maynsing as he hes tak of the teindis 
of the same, and ar possest be himselfe.** 



280 EDINBURGHSHIUE. 

accounts. It appears to have been originally a country seat, ap- 
pertaining ex officio to the Abbots of Dunfermline ; and, after the 
Reformation, to have become private property. In 1593 the Ab- 
bacy was annexed to the Crown, but the lordship of Musselburgh 
was excepted, and when afterwards a charter of infeftment was 
ratified in favour of the Earl of Lauderdale of the same lordship, 
that of Pinkie was exempted,* in favour of the Earl of Dunferm- 
line. 

An inscription in front of the building — " Dominus Alexander 
Setonius kanc domum aedificaviti non ad animij sed fbrtunanan et 
agelli modum^ 1613*' — can bear no reference to the foundation of 
the building, but a vanity attached to some additions made to it. 
From a minute examination, we are convinced that many parts 
of the house must have been built long anterior to the time of the 
first Earl of Dunfermline, who died here in 1622, and whose body 
was afterwards laid out in state in the church of St Michael at 
Inveresk. 

The primary mansion, which appears to have been intended as 
entire by itself, is the most northern part of the present edifice, and 
comprehends the massive square tower with its picturesque tur* 
rets. The walls are of great thickness, and the ground floor is 
strongly arched. It contains, besides a number of quaint and cu- 
rious apartments, accessible only at angles of the staircase, the 
spacious room, styled par excellence " the King's Room," — from 
one of the Abbots having entertained his sovereign there, and which 
bears, in its stuccoed roof, the marks of an antiquity consider- 
ably antecedent to the seventeenth century.f The more south-> 
em portions of the building, containing the painted gallery and 
other fine rooms, are evidently not so ancient ; nor indeed are the 
floors on the same level, although doors have been opened through 
the original gable. But even to this second addition we cannot 
assign a date posterior to the removal of the Scottish Kings to 
England — as vire are told that this gallery, which is 120 feet Ipng, 
was used as an hospital for the wounded after the battle of Pinkie ; 
and its roof, painted in compartments throughout, exhibits all the 
traces, of that mixture of mythology, heraldry, and romance, which 

* Sheriffball was at same time excepted in favour of the Earl of Morton.— 
Vide Inquisit. Special. Vol. v 655. 

f Traditional yanta whispers to us, that during one season, the holy Abbot gave up 
Piukie House as a summer residence to James V.— and that here the gay and gal- 
lant monarch enjoyed thp society of his beautiful favourite Margaret Oliphant* 



J 



INVEUESK. 281 

characterized the mind and monarchy of the wise, yet womanly, 
the erudite, yet pedantic, James VL 

It was in this same room that Prince Charles Edward slept on 
the night after his victory over the Royal army at Prestonpans. 

Pinkie House, although a very large stucture, is evidently only 
part of a magnificent Gothic design, which has never been com* 
pleted. It appears to us that the building was intended to be 
quadrangular, and that the fountain of elaborate architecture in 
the shape of a Papal mitre, which stands upon the green in front, 
should form the centre of the court. The original garden still re- 
mains, with its ornamented walls, and richly carved doorways, pi- 
lasters, and sun-dials ; and the grounds which surround the whole 
are eminently beautiful. From historical associations, the locality 
is one of the most interesting in Scotland ; nor ought it to be 
overlooked, that '* Pinkie House" is sacred to the lovers of Scot- 
tish song, as affording a theme wedded to one of the sweetest and 
most touching of our national melodies. 

On the forfeiture of the Dunfermline earldom in 1688, the ba- 
rony was purchased by the Tweeddale family, with whom it re- 
mained till 1778, when bought by the late Sir Archibald Hope of 
Craighall. 

The original barony of Pinkie comprehended little more than 
thirty acres, lying to the east and south of the mansion-house ; 
but the property has of late years been greatly extended, from pur- 
chases of property in the vicinity, by the present proprietor. Sir 
John Hope, the Vice- Lieutenant of the county. 
* Stonyhill, about half a mile north-west from the Roman bridge, 
was, in former days, the residence of Sir William Sharpe, the son 
of the famous Archbishop, who was returning from a visit to this 
spot, when murdered on Magus Moor; and nearer to our own 
times, it was the property of the infamous Colonel Charteris. It 
is traditionally recorded here, that the populace assembled in the 
avenue down which the funeral procession of that wretched person 
had to pass, and bespattered the hearse with filth and garbage. 

Before falling into the hands of the Sharpes, Stonyhill was long 
possessed by a family of the name of Dobie — and the most an- 
cient medal attached to the silver arrow given by the magistrates 
of Musselburgh to be shot for annually over the Links by the Royal 
Company of Archers, represents one of them in the costume of 
the time, and the date of 1603. The same gentleman, from sub- 
sequent medals, appears to Jiave gained it thrice, upon which, by 



282 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

the laws of gift, it was to become private property. But this third 
medal, dated I6289 intimates, that the arrow was again gifted back 
to the town by the winner. 

The last remains of the original mansion of Stonyhill were taken 
down during 1838, and the materials exhibited every mark of a hoar 
antiquity. The wood-work in the walls was literally reduced to 
must; and some curious stones were exposed, which had been 
built in over one of the mantel-pieces. The present occupant, 
Mr Park, caused a large block then found, and which exhibits a 
striking petrifaction of the roots of a tree, to be placed, for the 
sake of preservation, in the garden wall,**where it is now to be 
seen.* 

The existing mansion house of Stonyhill appears to have been 
originally the oiSces of the ancient villa ; and behind it are the gar- 
den and orchard, encloHed by a gigantic, buttressed wall, appa- 
rently of great age. A mulberry tree in one of the walks may 
well have been coeval with that of Shakspeare. 

The small field at the end of the avenue was called ^^ the Bogle's 
Hole," and was th# selected spot, in the dark ages, for the incre- 
mation of witches. About its centre there was a bare patch, on 
which, for this reason, according to vulgar belief, the grass never 
grew. Stonyhill 'is now the property of the Earl of Wemyss, 

The gardens of Stonyhill and Monktonhall appear to have been 
among the earliest in this part of the island ; and entries in the 
household books of Dalkeith Palace shew that vegetables and 
fruits were procured from the latter upwards of two centuries 

ago*t 

About a mile above Monktonhall, on the Dalkeith road, stands 
Monkton House, said to have been built by the famous General 
Monk, and his favourite Scottish residence. This venerable build- 
ing, now used as farm-olSSces, stands in the court of the present 
mansion-house — the property of Sir John Hope of Pinkie. The 

* In the '* InquiMtiones Speciales," we find,that << Staniehil]/' as well as <* Munk- 
tounhall** were parts of the lordship granted to John Earl of Lauderdale. 

In the same mine of antiquarian knowledge, we find a service of heirship of ^ six- 
teen oxgates of land in Munktounhall to Robert Dobie of Stanyhill, which is stated 
to be ^* in regaUtate de DuufermUng^ et difminio de Atwuelburgfuhire.** 

'f There is a curious entry in Arnot's/' Celebrated Criminal Trials*' on the Break- 
ing of Gardens.—*' John Kait and Alexander Dean were indicted at the instance of 
bis Migesty's Advocate for breaking into the gardens of Barnton, PiltoUf Barnbouglflk 
Greycrook, Craigiehall, and Carlowry, and stealing thence herbs, artichoke plants, 
Mybows^ )• e. young onions, and bee-hives. They had formerly been convicted before 
an inferior Judicature, for breaking gardens in the neighbourhood of Musselburgh ; 
and by warrant of the Privy-Council, they were sentenced to be taken to the Burrow 
Muir of Edinburgh and there hanged, 1^.'* 



INYERESK, 283 

celebrated Routing Welly said to predict a storm, is situated in a 
strip of plantation skirting the field to the south-west. The late 
Dr Carlyle has explained this phenomenon, and we suspect right- 
ly, on natural causes. ^* The case is, that this well, being dug 
many &thoms deep, through a rock, in order to get below the 
strata of coal that abound in the field, it communicates through 
the coal-rooms that are wrought, with other shafts ; which oc- 
casions a rumbling noise, that does not precede^ but accompanies 
a high wind."* 

New Hailes, the seat of the celebrated author of ^^ The An- 
nals of Scotland," and other valuable works connected with the 
ancient laws and literature of our country, is about half a mile 
north-west from Stonyhill, and contains the library of his Lord- 
ship, so rich in antiquarian lore. The grounds are beautifully laid 
out, and near the house is a column, erected to the memory of 
the great Earl of Stair. The ruins of the chapel of St Magda- 
lene were at the north-west extremity of this estate ; but, save an 
occasional tombstone which has been dug up, no vestige of its 
site remains. Parts of buildings nearer the sea, and, indeed, now 
covered by it, appear to have been offices belonging to this sacred 
institution. 

In conclusion, we may mention, that among the more ancient 
buildings of the place, are the Musselburgh Kilwinning Lodge, 
built in 1612, in the back street called the Dambrie, in which is 
also an ancient well, noted by housewives for the excellence of its 
water in the infusion of tea, and still known as ^* the Vicar's Well," 
from having been attached to the vicarage of St Michael's. This, 
from its immediate vicinity, stood in all probability on the site of 
the present manse, which was built in 1806. The former manse 
was built m 1681. f 

* Maitland in bis *' PerambuUtioQ of divers miles round Edinburgh,** (1753^) 
gives a pretty similar solution, which perhaps the Doctor might have seen. Nor u 
this phenomenon peculiar to Monckton. Camden (Brit, in Com, Glamorg.J men. 
tions something very similar in the Isle of Barry , near the mouth of the Taf, in 
the chink of a rock ; and at Slackpooi Bother in South Wales is a pit of immense 
depth, which foams and bubbles before stormy weather, and makes a noise, some- 
times to be heard at the distance of miles. 

f During the incumbency of Dr Carlyle, diis manse was a fiiTOurite resort of the 
distinguish«i literati of the last floe. Robertson and Hume, Mackenzie and Campbell, 
LoffM and Stuart, Home and smoUet, and Beattie and Hill, were often its cherished 
▼isitants. Great part of the Tragedy of Douglas was here composed ; and it was here, 
after Mackenzie and the late Lord Kinneder had attempted to fill up the hiaius^ that 
the long lost copy of Collins*s sublime ^* Ode on the Superstitions of the Highlands** 
was at length discovered in its perfected state. At a sUU earlier period, the sermons 
of the pious and scholastic Williamson were dated from this place. 

$ For other minor antiquities in this parish sec MS. 



284 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Heritors* — The principal heritors are, 1. the Duke of Buc- 
cleuch and Queensberry, who is patron of the parish ; % the 
Earl of Wemyss and March; 3, Sir John Hope, Bart, of Craig- 
hall, propHetor of the barony of Pinkie, and also of that of Monk- 
ton ; 4. John Fullarton, Esq. of Carberry j 5. William Aitchison, 
Esq. of Walliford, formerly possessed by the Binnings, a family 
of note ; 6. Sir Charles Dalrymple Fergusson, Bart, who suc- 
ceeded to the estate of New Hailes, formerly possessed by Miss 
Dalrymple, daughter of Lord Hailes ; 7. John Wauchope, Esq. 
of Edmonstone ; 8. the Town of Musselburgh, the property be- 
longing to which is held of the Duke of Buccleuch. 

Eminent Men. — It is a curious circumstance that William Wal- 
ker, one of the most eminent portrait engravers in London, and 
Burnet, the most distinguished of all the historical picture en- 
gravers of this kingdom, — himself an eminent historical painter 
and writer on art, — should both have been bom in this parish. The 
rare art of sculpture can also claim from it the names of Alex- 
ander and John Ritchie, the latter of whom modelled the Glas- 
gow statue of Sir Walter Scott, and the mtch admired group of 
^* the Flood ;" and the former of whom, the favourite pupil of 
Thorwaldsen at Rome, has not disappointed those lic^s of fu* 
ture excellence which that great artist formed regarding him ; he 
has executed innumerable first rate busts, as well as many statues, 
monuments, and other works of art of the highest merits, amongst 
which may be mentioned the fine statue at (>)Idstream, and the 
Selkirkshire monument to the author of Waverley. Among those 
distinguished in arts or arms, who, although not natives of the pa- 
rish, have honoured it by choosing it as a place of residence, we may 
mention Sir David Dalrymple Lord Hailes, one of the foremost 
Scottish historians and antiquaries ; Professor Stuart, and his son 
Gilbert, the eminent historical essayist ; the great Lord Clive, and 
Sir Ralph Abercrombie, each of whom for a season were occupants 
of Loretto ; Major- General James Stirling, the captor of the stand- 
ard of the Inviucibles, who was domiciled in the parish since the 
termination of the war ; and Admiral Sir David Milne,, whose 
gallant conduct at the capture of the La Pique frigate is lastingly 
recorded in our naval annals, and who was second in command at 
the bombardment of Algiers. Logan, the poet, was educated at 
the grammar school of Musselburgh, as was also Lieutenant 
Drummond, the framer of the Reform Bill, and the inventor of 
" the Drummond lights.*' 



INVERESK. W5 

The name which in modern days has reflected the greatest lustre 
on this parish is that of David Macbeth Moir, Esq. the distin- 
guished '* Delta" of Blackwood's Magazine, who, amidst all the 
harassing duties of the medical profession, has found time to em- 
body in many chaste and touching strains, those *^ high imagin- 
ings" which visit the mind of genius ; as well as to stray into 
the paths of richest and broadest humour — witness *^ Mansie 
Wauch's" irresistible drolleries ; — whose laborious history of the 
art which he has himself so successfully studied, forms a most valu- 
able acquisition to the practitioner ; — whose songs in the recent re- 
publication of Burns^s Lyrics with music, take a deserved place 
beside those of the illustrious national minstrel ; — of whose genius 
the fruits are to be found scattered over every department of perio- 
dical literature ; and who, with the gifts of genius, has none of those 
defects of character which have too frequently sullied the bright- 
est talents. 

Parochial Registers. — The earliest entry in the parish records 
IS 1607. They have been pretty regularly kept since that period. 
The penmanship of many of the early registers is curiously ornate 
and beautiful ; but from inattention, several of the volumes have 
been much injured in consequence of getting loose in the binding. 
They consist of four sets, and contain the following number of vo- 
lumes : Minutes of Sederunt, 5 volumes, commencing at 1651 ; 
Baptisms, 13 volumes, commencing at 1607 ; Proclamations, 5 
volumes, commencing at 1690 ; Deaths, 6 volumes, commencing 
at 1751. 

Modern Buildings.^^TYie only building of a modem date worthy 
of notice is the new church of North Esk, the plan of which was 
furnished by William Burn, Esq. It is a handsome structure, 
finished in the interior with much elegance and taste, and is capa- 
ble of containing 1000 worshippers. The expense of its erection 
amounted to L. 2500; which, with the exception of a grant of 
Lb 375 from the General Assembly's Fund, and L. 200 from the 
Presbytery of Dalkeith, was raised by subscription. It was opened 
for public worship on the 9th September 1838. 

III. — Population. 
The population has greatly increased since the date of the for- 
mer Statistical Account 



In 1755, 


it was 


4645 


1792, 


. 


53f)2 


1811, 


. 


6993 


1821, 


. 


7836 


1831, 


- 


Srei ; males, 4257 ; females, 4704. 



286 EDINBaRGHSHIRE. 

The chief causes of the increase of population are the introduc- 
tion of various manufactories, and the increased extent to which 
coal has been wrought 

The number of families is 1892, of whom 1483 reside in the 
town, and 409 in the country part of the parish. 

The registered baptisms, marriages, and deaths, for the last seven 
years, are as follow : 



1832, 




164 Births. 


03 


Marriages. 


553 Deaths. 


1833, 




207 


79 


. 


250 


1834, 




190 


81 


• 


196 


1835, 




196 


60 


. 


161 


1836, 




184 


74 


. 


218 


1887, 




175 


69 


a 


261 


1838^ 


* 


182 


61 


• 


249 



The average number of illegitimate births annually is 1 1. 

The number of registered baptisms does not correspond exactly 
with the number of births, as a certain number of children die with- 
out baptism, and the Dissenters very generally neglect registration. 
There ought also to be a small deduction for the funerals from 
other parishes, which are recorded along with the deaths happen- 
ing in this parish. 

Amusements. — Archery, — A silver arrow, given formerly by the 
Magistrates of Musselburgh, to be shot for by the Royal Archers of 
Scotland, is the object of an annual competition on the Jinks in the 
month of August. The victor receives from the town L.1, 10s, and 
a riddle of claret, and is bound to append a medal of gold or silver 
to the arrow before the next competition. It has a series of such 
medals attached to it from 1603 to the present time, with the 
single exception of the perturbed 1746. ^ During these 236 years 
it has only been thrice gained by the same individual, by Dobie of 
Stonyhill, by Provost Drummond of Edinburgh, and lastly, by the 
late Sir Patrick Walker. It was shot for on the 10th of August 
1839, and gained by the Right Honourable the Earl of Dalhousie, 
in whose keeping it remains for a year. 

Golf.'^The ancient national game of golf continues a favourite 
amusement, for which the adjacent links are well adapted, so much 
so, that they have become a place of resort to many of the inha- 
bitants of Edinburgh, who come hither for the purpose of playing 
this healthful and exhilarating game. A golf club was formed in 
1760, and still continues to flourish, consisting of the principal 
gentlemen of the town and vicinity. A handsome silver cup is an- 
nually played for, the winner of which retains possession of it, and 
is captain of the club for one year, and attaches a gold or silver 
medal to it before the next competition. The game, from the dry- 



INVBRESK. 287 

ness of the links, can be played at all seasons, and affords to the 
inhabitants a delightful recreation. It is much to be deplored, how* 
ever, that an exercise in itself suflBciently stimulating, should fre« 
quently be prostituted to the purposes of gambling, and that so many 
of the young who are employed as eadies or club-carriers, should 
be initiated in the practices of vice partly from the evil example 
of those in whose gambling transactions they take a deep interest, 
and whom they in this respect on a smaller scale ludicrously imi- 
tate, and partly from the mistaken liberality of their employers, 
who, by extravagantly overpaying them for their services, not only 
furnish them with the means of vicious indulgence, but totally unfit 
them for the sober and steady industry of any laborious calling. 

General Character of the People. — Those peculiarities of charac- 
ter and habits which were wont to distinguish one district and town 
from another are here, as elsewhere, gradually becoming less appa- 
rent, from the facilities of communication with other parts of the 
country. A considerable number of families in the common ranks 
of life can boast of an ancient although humble descent, and hence 
there exists a certain feeling of an aristocratic description, which in 
a more sequestered situation might have degenerated into conceit ; 
and for the same reason, one prominent feature in the character of 
the middle classes is a laudable pride in the credit and respectabi- 
lity of the << honest town." The town population cannot be cha- 
racterized as universally distinguished for a scrupulous regard 
to cleanliness. Many of the houses are mean and squalid in 
the extreme, and, from being crowded together in narrow lanes 
or closes without a single foot of garden ground attached to them, 
uncleanly habits on the part of their occupants are to a certain ex- 
tent inevitable. These mean and comfortless houses exercise a 
powerful although indirect influence in degrading the character 
and in depressing the social condition of the labouring poor ; and 
to the want of cleanly and temperate habits amongst them, much 
of the distress which they suffer is undoubtedly to be traced. Of 
the people generally, however, it may be said that they enjoy in a 
reasonable degree the comforts and advantages of society. They 
appear contented with their condition, and have a just claim to the 
character of a moral and religious community. 

IV. — Industry. 
Agriculture. — The parish contains about S571 acres, almost 

the whole being arable. There are few plantations, and with the 

exception of the policy of New Hailes, that of Pinkie, and part of 



288 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Dalkeith Park, the soil is almost all under cultivation* The farms 
are all well enclosed, and subdivided with stone walls, or well 
kept and thriving hedges ; and are in a state of the highest cul- 
ture. A common of considerable extent was many years ago di- 
vided, and is now private property. There is no meadow land. 
The ordinary length of leases is nineteen years. The principal 
crops sown are wheat, barley, and oats, with a small proportion of 
pease and beans ; potatoes and turnips also are extensively culti- 
vated. 

Ment of Land. — The rent of land is from L. 2 to L. 5 per acre, 
according to the quality and situation of the ground. < In some 
instances a part of the rent is paid in grain at the rate of the (iars' 
prices of the county. Only a small part of the land is let for 
grazing. The price of grazing for a cow is L« 6. The rental of 
the parish is L. 16,123. 

Rate of Wages. — The ordinary rate of wages is from 10s. to 
12s. per week for common labourers ; and from 16s. to L. 1 for 
artisans. Colliers are paid so much per ton of coals excavated.* 
The annual wages of a hind are L. 16 in money, 6^ bolls of meal, 
3 bolls of potatbes, a house and garden, and one month's meat in 
harvest 

Price of Provisions, — There are excellent butcher-markets, and 
the supply offish is abundant; but from our proximity to Edin- 
burgh, the price of provisions is high. Beef sells at 7d. per 
pound ; mutton at 7d. ; veal from 7d. to 8d. ; pork at 6d. Had- 
docks are sold at ^d. and Id. each ; cod from lOd. to Is.; her- 
rings from Od. to 8d. per dozen ; oysters from Is. 6d. to 2s« per 
hundred. 

Live-Stock. — There is no particular breed of cattle reared in 
the parish. The horses commonly used are of the Clydesdale 
breed. Sheep are of the Cheviot and Leicester breeds. Lambs 
of all descriptions are reared for the markets. A considerable 
quantity of mutton has, of late years, been sent by steam to the 
London market 

Htisbandry. — An improved system of husbandry prevails. 
Some of the farms are of large extent* under the management of 
enlightened, enterprizing, and skilful tenants. Tile-draining has 
recently been practised to a considerable extent, and with com- 

* The system of paying the miners* wages on alternate Saturday nights, appears 
liable to strong objections, — the following day being devoted by many, not to their re* 
ligious duties, but to intemperate indulgence ; Monday also being in consequence 
not unfrequently spent in a total relaxation frotn work. 

3 



INVERESK. 2S9 

plete success. The expense of draining per acre, the drains 18 
feet apart, may be estimated at about L. 8, 15s. 

By this important improvement, by a skilful application of ma- 
nures, and by a judicious selection of the best seeds, as well as by 
adopting the practice of drilling grain crops, the produce of the 
land has been greatly increased. Turnip husbandry is success- 
fully practised : the Swedish variety appears to thrive particularly 
well. In a good many instances, the crop is eaten off the land by 
sheep, a system which is found materially to improve light sandy 
soils. The farm-houses and steadings are of a substantial, im- 
proved, and superior description, more especially those erected on 
the property of His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch, whose truly 
patriotic maxim, ^^ live and let live," is here acted upon in the 
same liberal spirit as elsewhere. On one farm, possessed by Mr 
James Vernor, a steam-engine has been erected for thrashing. * 
The following succession of crops is very generally observed : 1. 
potatoes or turnips ; 2. wheat or barley sown with grass seeds ; S. 
if not kept in pasture, the grass is cut green, or made into hay ; 
4. if made into hay then succeeded by a crop of oats. Besides 
lime and dung, and compost of lime and earth, a considerable 
quantity of rape cake, and crushed bones, landed at Fisherrow, has 
lately been used as manure. 

Coal Mines, — The whole of the coal mines in the parish are 
either the property of Sir John Hope, Bart, or are rented by him. 
The total number of persons employed at these works, including 
women and children, is about 572. The quantity of coal raised 
in the course of one year amounts to 54,000 tons, which, at the 
rate of 5d. per cwt., will produce the sum of L. 22,500. 

Fishings* — There is a salmon-fishery at the mouth of the Esk 
by means of stake-nets. The quantity taken in a season is small. 
The right of fishing, which belongs to the town, lets at a rent of 
L. 20 per annum. The season begins on the 1st of February, 
and closes on the 15th of September. 

Fisherrow has long been distinguished for its race of hardy and 
industrious fishermen. The number of boats employed is 28^ 
averaging from 18 to 22 tons; they are from 33 to 37 feet long, 
from 10 to 13 feet wide, and about 5^ feet deep. Each of these 
boats requires five men, which makes the number of fishermen 
140. The same owners have an equal number of small boats. 
•About the middle of July they prepare their boats for the Caith- 

* There are upwards of a dozen steam-engines in the parish employed for various 
purposes. 

BDINBUR6H. T 



290 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ness fishing, from which they return, towards the middle of Sep- 
tember. For a month after they return, few or no fish are to 
be got. They then haul down their small boats to fish off North 
Berwick and GuUan till the herrings come into the Frith, which 
is generally in December ; wheji they go with their large boats 
to deep sea fishing, about 25 to 30 mileseast of the Isle of May. 
A boat makes in good weather two trips in a week. In April fish 
are scarce ; about the end of May they are more plentiful, and 
continue so till July, when the Caithness fishing commences. In 
favourable seasons the average amount of each boat's fishing is 
about 250 crans at 9s. per cran. Some of the owners of boats 
are in very comfortable circumstances ; and although somewhat 
rough and unpolished in their manners, they are, nevertheless^ 
distinguished for much warmth and kindliness of feeling, for frank- 
ness, blunt honesty, and strong affections. Their wives and daugh- 
ters are occupied in procuring bait, in baiting the lines, and dis- 
posing of the fish. Their character, habits, and personal appear- 
ance are so peculiar, that it has been supposed they were a distinct 
race, descended probably from foreign settlers, whose manners 
they still retain. It is obvious, however, that their character and 
manners, as is the case with other classes, are modified by circum- 
stances, the chief of which are, their always marrying amongst their 
own caste^ and their laborious occupation, which imparts to them 
an uncommonly robust and masculine aspect.^ 

Gardens. — This parish has long been distinguished for the ex- 
cellence of its gardens. Besides those belonging to private fa- 
milies, there is a considerable extent of ground in the immediate 
vicinity of the town, occupied as maU-gardens^ as they are called, 
the produce of which is sold in the Edinburgh and Glasgow mar- 
kets. It may afford some idea of the value and extent of these, to 
state that one tenant of a garden pays L. 100 per annum of rent. 
Musselburgh continues to enjoy a high reputation for leek seed. 
Formerly, small fortunes were realized by the 'market-gardeners 
here, chiefly by the sale of flowers ; at present, many most respect- 
able individuals prosper in the same profession, edibles being, how- 
ever, their chief source of profit. 

Prodttce.— The annual value of agricultural produce may be con- 
jectured to be as follows : 

• For some rcmarkB on this peculiar class of people of a more genera] character 
than would be admissible in a statistical work, the reader is referred to Cbambers'i 
Edinburgh Journal, Vol. vi. p. 258. 

4 



.J 



INVERESK. 291 

( 

Annual value of corn, - « L. 21,000 

grass, green crop, &c. J 6,000 

Total, L. 37,000 

Manufactures. — The manufactures, which until recent years had 
been inconsiderable, have of late greatly increased. They consist 
chiefly of sail-cloth, hair-cloth, fishing-nets, hats, and leather. 
There are also two extensive works for the making of bricks and 
tiles, a salt-work, and a pottery at which the coarser sorts of ware 
are mostly manufactured. Dyeing, which was formerly one of the 
principal trades carried on here, is now confined to one or two in- 
dividuals. 

SaiMoth. — A sail-cloth manufactory was first established on a 
small scale in 1811, and has since progressively increased to a 
considerable extent. The buildings for the spinning department 
have recei^ly been enlarged, and a steam-engine of 55 horse 
power erected. The sail-cloth manufactured is for the home mar- 
ket, and of superior quality, being principally made for the use 
of the British navy, 

Hair^cloth, — A manufactory of hair-cloth was introduced about 
1820. It has been gradually increasing since that period, under 
the active management of the proprietor, Mr Porteous, and at present 
employs nearly 200 persons, men, women, and children. The prin- 
cipal articles manufactured are satin and &ncy figured hair-cloth, 
curled hair, hair kiln-cloth, hair-lines, and all kinds of fishing hair, 
girth-web, ropes, twines, &c. Horse-hair carpeting, used in the 
House of Commons, on the recommendation of Dr D. B. Reid, is 
also manufactured here. These'goods are sent to London, and other 
parts of England, Dublin, and the principal populousctowns in Ireland^ 
and all parts of Scotland. A considerable trade at one time exist- 
ed in the exportation of satin hair-cloth, and other articles con- 
nected with the horse-hair manufacture, but this is now very limit- 
ed, the different countries to which it was sent having for some 
time made their own goods. Another manufactory of the same 
kind has recently been established by a different individual, at 
which, however, there is but a small number of hands employed. 

Fishing-nets, — A manufactory of fishing-nets was established 
in 1820, by the ingenious inventor of a loom for weaving them, 
Mr Paterson, formerly of the commissariat This invention, which 
he completed after many years of laborious experiment, promises 
to reward his ingenuity and perseverance, by gradually super- 
seding the tedious process of hand-knitling. He has now 18 looms 



292 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

at work; each loom produces from 18 to 25 yards of netting per 
day. A spinning machine is attached to the work ; both together 
employ 52 hands; and during the last year, 30 tons of hemp have 
been manufactured. 

It is a curious coincidence, that, in 1834, Mr N. G. Robinson, 
an English gentleman, who has been for some time resident in this 
parish, without any communication with Mr Paterson, also com- 
pleted a similar invention, differing, however, in this, that his ma- 
chinery forms a knot of quite another description. He has already 
six looms in operation, and meditates a considerable extension of 
his manufactory. He has also erected a machine for spinning, 
and at this and the present number of looms, 23 hands are em- 
ployed, and 14 tons pf hemp annually manufactured. 

Brewery and Distillery. — There is at present only one brewery 
in operation, belonging to Mr William Whitelaw, another hav- 
ing recently been stopped. The average quantity of malt, 
which is manufactured by himself, annually consumed, is 1744 
quarters. The ale is sent to all the principal towns in Scotland, 
and to London, Hull, and Newcastle, as well as to the East and 
West Indies. The distillery is the property of W, Aitchison, 
Esq. of Drummore, who declines permitting any information to be 
furnished regarding it. 

7an7ier/f5.-f- There are three extensive tanning and currying 
works carried on, at which the quantity of leather manufactured 
has been steadily on the increase. The raw hides are procured 
from the Edinburgh market, from Russia, and Hamburgh : the 
markets for the manufactured articles are chiefly Edinburgh, Glas- 
gow, and London. One of the houses sends goods to almost every 
town in Scotland. The quantity of bark annually consumed 
amounts to about 1000 tons, and is procured from England, Bel- 
gium, Germany, Holland, and one particular sort from Smyrna. 
The number of hands employed in this trade is from 70 to 80, of 
these 25 are curriers, who can earn from 14s. to L. 1, 4s. per week: 
the wages of tanners may be from 10s. to 15s. 

Bone-manure. — The manufacture of bone-manure has of late 
years added considerably to the amount of our imports and the 
trade of the place. One house last year imported above 1200 tons 
from Russia, Prussia, and the Mediterranean. The value of the 
raw material, as imported, runs from L. 5 to L. 6 per ton ; when 
ground it is sold at from L. 1, Is. to L. 1, 3s. per imperial quarter; 
Rape-cake and linseed-cake are also extensively imported: the 



INVERESK. 



293 



former, used for manure, costs from L. 5, 10s. to L. 6, 10s. per 
ton; — the latter, used in feeding cattle, from L. 7 to L. 8, 10s. 

Commerce. — In the charter granted by the Earl of Lauderdale 
in 1670, the dues arising from the harbour are mentioned as part 
of the revenue. Previous to 1806, the harbour wa3 enclosed by 
bulwarks of dry stone.; since that period a substantial quay has 
been built, and the trade has in consequence increased. Former- 
ly a very extensive trade was carried on by the inhabitants of Mus- 
selburgh with Holland, and an annual fair was held which lasted 
for a number of days in succession. The shallowness of the har- 
bour, in which there is only 4^ feet of water at neap-tides, prevents 
all vessels but those of light burden from entering for the purposes 
of trade. There is no vessel belonging to the port ; those which 
resort to it, besides coasting vessels belonging to this country, are 
chiefly Dutch, Prussian, and Norwegian. Their cargoes consist 
of rape and oil-cake, bone-dust, grain, wood, bark, hides, &c. 
The shore dues are moderate on all imports excepting timber, 
which pays one piece of the hundred. These dues let for about 
L. 176 per annum. Since building the new quay, the magistrates 
also levy 2d. per register ton on all vessels entering the harbour, 
which may amount to L. 188 per annum. The following tables 
of imports and exports for the years 1831 and 1839 will shew the 
progressive increase of trade : 

Imports and exports from 1st October 1830 to 1st October 1831, 

202 vessels measuring 12,406 register tons. 

Imports, — Foreign. Import*, — Coattwiae. 

"* " Tons. Cwt, 

Bark, - - 108 

Bone manure, - 109 

Clay, - - J 94 

Cinders, - . 103 

Flint, - . 122 

Iron, - - 413 10 

Peats, . - 40 

Rock salt, - 30 

Rags, . - 16 5 

Empty casks from London, 603 
Yeast casks, - 20 

Bricks, - 11,000 

PaTement, - 26,500 feet. 

Slates, - 307,160 

Brushwood for powder works, 298 tons. 
Larch timber, - 3,720 cubic feet. 
Fir deals, - 18,284 sup. feet. 

Potatoes, - 483 bolls. 

{Wheat, 3^ qrs. ] 

Barley, 1555 { 

Beans & pease, 53 I 2759 

Oats, 497 I qrs. 

Malt, 300 J 



4b 




Tons. Cwt. 


Bark, 


• 


2799 6 


Rape and oiUcake, 


366 9 


Hides, 


. 


4 10 


Goat skins, 


. 


1013 pieces. 




• 


Cub. feet. 


Timber from British Prov 


inces, 30,887 




the Baltic, 


- 15,081 




Norway, 


1,175 


Norway battens, 


8708 



294 • EDINBURGHSHIRE. 





Exports 


1880-31, 


Bricks, 


• 


- 11,000 


Oats, 


- 


180 bolls. 


Coals, 


. 


241 tons. 


Staves, 


. 


2900 


Tiles, 


- 


500 



i 



Imports from20ffiS€ptemher 1838 to 20ik 

September 1839. 
Total Foreign, (regd. ton.) 5797 
Coastwise, - 6371 

12108 

Exports for the Mime period* 
Total, (registered tonnage) 2266 2266 



14374 

The foreign imports for the last year have consisted chiefly of 
grain, oil-cake, rags, Norway timber, bark, hides, and bones for 
manure ; those coastwise, of grain, bark, pavement, slates, stones, 
wood, mineral salt, fuller's earth, and potter's clay. The exports 
have been principally coals. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Villages, — Besides the populous towns of Musselburgh and 

Fisherrow, there are several villages in the parish. Near the 
eastern boundary are Westpans and Walliford, the former chief- 
ly inhabited by colliers, containing a population of nearly 300 ; and 
on the west' are the villages of Old and New Craighall, contain- 
ing together a population little short of 1000, also inhabited by 
colliers. 

Means of Communication, — The London road, which intersects 
the parish throughout its whole length on the north, affords an easy 
means of communication with Edinburgh on the one side, and with 
the towns of Haddington and Dunbar on the other. There are also 
excellent roads leading to Dalkeith, and the lime-kilns to the 
south. The London Mail passes daily through Musselburgh; 
also coaches from Dunbar, North- Berwick, and Haddington ; and 
there are Musselburgh and Railway coaches to Edinburgh almost 
every hour. The Edinburgh and Dalkeith Railway, opened for 
the conveyance of passengers in 1832, passes near the western 
boundary of the parish, and is joined by a branch from Fisherrow 
at the distance of about a mile from the harbour. A spirited at- 
tempt was made some years ago to ply a steamer between Fisher- 
row and Berwick, but failed, owing to the inconvenient nature of 
the harbour as a landing-place. 

Harbour. — The harbour evidently bad been originally construct- 
ed to afford safety for fishing-boats, and is only adapted to vessels 
of small size ; a considerable number of that description frequent 
it, both foreign and in the coasting trade. It stands on the land- 
edge of an extensive flat of loose sand, which is drifl;ed into it with 
the run of the tides ; and as there is no run of water. from the land 
to wash it out, the sand accumulates two or three feet higher with- 



INVEUESK. 295 

in the harbour than its height outside the pier. In order to re- 
medy this, it was suggested that a reservoir should be constructed 
to the east of the pier, from the bottom of which a cast-iron pipe 
was to be carried into the harbour through an archway in the pier 
of 7 feet high and of the same width. This archway being left 
open to the run of the tides through the harbour would, it was sup- 
posed, aid the effect of the water from the reservoir in clearing out 
the drifted sand. Only one-half of thif proposal was adopted : 
an archway was opened through the pier, but as it was 430on dis* 
covered that this, in place of clearing the harbour, rather increas- 
ed the deposit of sand, it was after a short trial closed up. The 
only practicable way of gaining a greater depth of water appears 
to be to extend the present pier ; and as the trade of the port has 
latterly been so much on the increase, this, in all likelihood, will 
be done. No possible outlay, however, can ever render it a good 
harbour. 

Bridges. — About 300 yards below the old Roman bridge, which 
is now used only by foot-passengers, and which, if carefully pre- 
served, as at present, may continue to span the river for]]centuries 
to come, an elegant new bridge, consisting of five elliptic arches, 
planned by Sir John Rennie, the late celebrated engineer, was 
erected in 1806-7. This handsome structure, across which the 
London post-road passes, is a great ornament to the town, and af- 
fords an excellent communication between Musselburgh and Fisher- 
row. By two wooden bridges still lower, the intercourse is ren- 
dered as convenient and easv as could be desired. 

Ecclesiastical State, — The old church of St Michael's, having 
become both ruinous and inadequate for the proper accommoda- 
tion of a rapidly increasing population, was taken down, and the 
present church erected on the same site. It was opened for pub- 
lic worship in 1806. The size of it is 82 by 56 feet within walls. 
It has two galleries, and is seated for 2400, allowing eighteen 
inches for each individual. The number which it can actually con- 
tain may be about 3000. It is much to be regretted that advan- 
tage was not taken of the opportunity which the erection of a new 
church afforded, of placing it in a situation more convenietit for 
the large body of the parishioners ; and not less must it continue 
to be the subject both of wonder and regret that one of the finest 
and most commanding situations which it is possible to con- 
ceive, should have been disfigured with a clumsy piece of archi- 
tecture, totally destitute of the slightest pretensions to elegance. 



296 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

From the want of painting and other necessary repairs, the in« 
terior of the building is now quite in keeping with its exterior. 
The steeple, the only redeeming feature in the structure, forms an 
important land-mark, and a§ such, its erection was contributed to 
by the Commissioners for the Northern Lighthouses. The bell, 
than which no one of a finer tone breaks the stillness of the Sab- 
bath throughout Scotland, bears the following inscription : Soli • 

DEO . GLORIA . MICHASL . BYRGERHVYS . ME • FECIT. AnOO 

Domini 1624. Innervijsk . Kirk. 

The church-yard is under the management of the heritors and 
town-council, the charge of it having been resigned by the kirk- 
session in 1825. To whatever cause owing, it must be confessed 
that its general aspect does not reflect the highest credit on their 
management. Although the situation is naturally fine, and many 
very handsome monuments have been erected, still the dilapidated 
state of the railings, and a great part of the wall being left in aa 
unfinished state, without a coping, combine in giving it a ruinous 
and neglected appearance. 

Besides the parish church, and the new church built in Fisher- 
row, to which is attached the quoad sacra parish of North £sk» 
so called by a singular misapplication of terms, there are four 
places of worship within the parish, an Episcopal chapel, and three 
meeting-houses connected with the following bodies of Dissenters^ 
' the Associate Burghers, the Belief, and the Independents. 

The numbers connected with the various religious denominations 
are as follow: Established Church, 5876; Episcopalians, 153; 
Belief, 1468 ; Secession, 789 ; Independents, 144 ; belonging to 
other denominations, 112. 

The manse, which is a commodious dwelling, was built in 1807. 
Attached to it are a garden and small field, making in all about an 
acre, which were given by the town of Musselburgh to* the minis- 
ter of the parish when the former manse was built in 1681, for a 
small addition made to which in 1758 there is paid a feu^duty of 
Is. 6d. yearly. The glebe consists of 5^ acres ; its yearly value 
may be L. 22. The stipend, now all converted into grain, is 2 
chalders of wheat, 9 of barley, and 9 of oatmeal, with L. 15 for 
communion elements. His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch is pa- 
tron.* 

* The following is a list of the ministers of this parish from the Reformation : 
1. Mr Andrew Kackhall, admitted previous to 1591. died in 1609; 2. Mr Adam 
Colt; and, 3. his son, Mr Oliver Colt ; who, together filled up the rest of that cen- 
tury till 1679 ; 4. Mr Arthur Miller, ordained 1680 ; 5. Mr Richard Howiesoni or- 



INVERESK. 297 

The number of communicants in the Established Church was 
in 1838, 974; in 1839, 768; the decrease is owing to the erec- 
tion of the quoad sacra parish. 

Since 1702 there has been an assistant, the funds for whose 
support are very inadequate, and who is therefore appointed to the 
joint offices of session- clerk and assistant to the minister, an ar- 
rangement certainly far from desirable. A missionary hfis also 
been employed since May last, who labours partly in Westpans, 
and partly in Fisherrow. 

Education. — Musselburgh has long been celebrated for the ex- 
cellence of its seminaries. Owing to the healthiness of the si- 
tuation, and its vicinity to Edinburgh, whence the best masters 
for modern languages, music, drawing, and other accomplishments 
are easily procured, boarding establishments for young ladies and 
gentlemen have met with great encouragement. A flourishing 
establishment of this description has for a considerable number of 
years been conducted by the Rev. T. Langhorn, Episcopal minis- 
ter. There is no parish school, but it is hoped that so great a 
want will ere long be supplied. The grammar school is under 
the patronage of the magistrates and town-council of Musselburgh, 
who give the rector a salary of L. 27, 4s. 6d., together with a 
house and school-room. Under the excellent management of the 
present rector, Mr Trotter, this seminary bids fair to attain to even 
more than its former celebrity.* The whole of his present ac- 
commodation for boarders is under requisition, and from the in- 
crease of the number of scholars the school requires to be enlarged. 
Unfortunately, although erected only four years ago, it was, on a 
principle of unwise economy, made both deficient in size and mean 
in external appearance, and instead of being rendered an ornament 
to the town, it is placed in a situation where it is scarcely visible 
from the main street. There are two English schools also esta- 
blished by the magistrates and town-council, from whom the 
teachers receive salaries; the one in Musselburgh receives L. 12. 
with a house, the other in Fisherrow, including house rent, L. 17. 
Sir John Hope has established two schools at Old and New Craig- 

dained 1690; 6. Mr John Williamson, ordained 1701| died 1799 ; 7. Mr Frederick 
Carmichael, admitted 1739, translated to Edinburgh 1747-8 ; Dr Alexander Carlyle, 
ordained in 1748, died in 1805; 9. The present incumbent, Dr Leslie Moodie, ad- 
mitted 1806, to whom Mr J. G-. Bereridge was appointed assistant and successor in 
J836. 

* Many men of eminence hare received their education at tlie grammar school of 
Musselburgh. A club composed of such individuals have periodical social meetings 
in the capital, in order to revive the recollections of school days. 



298 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

hall ; there is one at Wallifordi established by the family of W. 
Aitcfaison, Esq. of Drummore ; one at Westpans, established by 
Sir George Grant Snttie, for the children of such of his workmen 
as reside there ; and one for girls in Musselburgh, supported by 
subscription. The teachers of all the other schools depend solely 
on the school-fees. The total number of schools in the parish is 
14. The school-fees are as follows : — English reading, 5s. per 
quarter; writing, 7s.; arithmetic, 9s. 6d.; Latin,5s.; French, 21s. 
An infant school has recently been established by the Rey. Alex- 
ander Davidson, minister of the quoad sacra parish, which has 
hitherto been successful, and is well attended. The Sunday schools 
connected with the Established Church, including one in connec- 
tion with the new church, amount to 7, at which upwards of 
800 children receive religious instruction, many of whom, frpm the 
unwillingness or inability of their parents, would otherwise be left 
in a great measure uninstructed. There are few altogether unable 
to read, but a considerable number, whose education has been so 
defective that, although able with difficulty to read the Scriptures, 
they derive little benefit from what they read. There is in gene- 
ral a sufficient anxiety to obtain the benefits of education, but an 
increasing tendency on the part of parents is observable to shift 
the burden of paying for the instruction of their children upon the 
shoulders of the benevolent.* 

Libraries. — A Subscription Library, containingupwardsof 1300 
volumes, which was established in 1812, still continues to flourish. 
The annual contribution of each subscriber is 6s. There is also 
a Circulating Library, consisting of 1200 volumes, the property of 
Mr Walker, bookseller, whose printing-press affords a convenient 
facility in preparing circulars, advertisements, &c. At the read- 
ing-room the leading London and Edinburgh newspapers are re- 
ceived. 

Friendly Societies. — Various friendly societies exist in Mussel- 
burgh and Fisherrow, both yearly and permanent Of the latter 
kind are. the following, — the Youths' Caledonian, Hammermen, 'St 

* Prior to 1609, a music sctiool was endowed by James VT. The following quo« 
tation from the Maitland Club Book will explain why it is ilbt included in the ac- 
count of the seminaries of this parish. " Item, thair is ane musick schoole in Mus- 
silburgh, quhainrnto vmquhile King James, quha lait deccissit, of worthie memorie, 
giftit igc. merkis money, furth of the yeirlie dewtie of the erectit lordcship of New- 
botle. This pensioun wes gcvin be the vmquhile Kingis Majestie to Tmquhile Mr 
Andro Blakhall, minister for the tyme at' the said kirk of Mussilburgh, and to his 
sone Mr Andro Blakhall, present minister at Abirlady, to the Tse and behove of the 
said musick schoole, and the said Mr Andro hes sauld and disponit the saidpentioun 
sua that the parochine and the schoole is frustrat of his Majestie*R gift.*^ 



INVEUESK. 299 

John\ Aitcbison's Haven, Gardeners, Fishermen. Of the bene- 
fits resulting from these there can be no doubt, but it must be ac- 
knowledged that the yearly societies in many instances prove the 
reverse of beneficial to their members. The money is generally 
deposited in the hands of grocers and spirit-dealers, who, besides 
exacting the highest price for goods supplied on the credit of de- 
posits, offer a strong temptation to excess, by supplying, on trust, 
the means of intoxication when the individual's money may have 
run short. A Clothing Society exists under the patronage of a 
number of benevolent ladies connected with the parish : and a 
soup-kitchen has for several years been established dunng the 
winter. 

Savings Bank.^^K Savings Bank was instituted in 1815, and al- 
though the labouring classes, partly from ignorance, partly from 
improvidence, do not avail themselves to so great an extent as is 
desirable of the advantages which it offers them, yet it has upon 
the whole been attended with success, and has conferred great be- 
nefits upon such as had prudence and foresight enough to deposit 
a part of their earnings. Since its commencement the total 
number of depositors has been 1275, the amount of sums depo- 
sj^ted, L. 22,246, 18s. lid. During the last year 30 depositors 
have been paid up, 42 new depositors have opened accounts, 
and there are altogether 195 open accounts with the establish- 
ment. 

The Western Bank and the Commercial Bank of Edinburgh 
have each a branch established here. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers presently 
on the roll is 320, the highest allowance to each of whom is 3s. 6d., 
and the lowest 6d. per week. The amount of money distributed year- 
ly is L. 624. Nine insane persons are supported by the parish at 
an expense of L. 139, 9s. 1\A. per annum. There is distributed 
to occasional poor between L. 3 and L. 4. Fifty poor children are 
educated at the expense of the parish ; that expense amounts year- 
ly to L. 26, 16s. 7d. 

The collections at the church doors during the three last years 
have been as follow:— In 1836, L. 151, 18s. ll^d.; in 1837, 
L. 132, 8s. lid. ; in 1838, L. 147, 7s. 0|d. This includes col- 
lections for religious purposes. 

The assessments for these years were as follow : — 1 836, L. 1 ] Q5^ 
lis. 5d. ; 1837, L.995, 13& 8d. ; 1838, L. 905, 16s. Ojd. The 
assessment 19 levied upon the real rental, one-half being payable 



300 EDINBUUGHSHIRE. 

by the landlord and the other half by the tenant. When the pro- 
perty is houses one-fourth is deducted from the real rent. The 
rate of assessment in 1836 was Is. Id. per pound; in 1837, lid.; 
in 1838, lOd. The highest rate to which the assessment has ever 
reached was Is. 2d. per pound, which would produce nearly L. 1400- 
This unusually high rate was rendered necessary by the severe vi- 
sitation of cholera, which, besides adding greatly to the number 
of paupers, left many orphan children chargeable on the parish. 
The heritors, since 1834, have taken the chief management of the 
poor, a committee of their number bejpg appointed for that pur- 
pose, with whom the members of the kirk-session are expected to 
co-operate. This committee holds monthly meetings for revising 
the roll and transacting other business in connection with the poor. 
No indisposition but the reverse is manifested towards receiving 
parochial relief, and what is bestowed is in most instances regard- 
ed by the poor not so much as charitable aid, as a debt to which 
they have a direct and undoubted claim. 

About ten years ago, a society was formed for the suppression 
of begging, which, during the short time it was in operation, 'did 
much to correct the evils arising from the influx of vagrants and 
common beggars, and clearly demonstrated the great benefit whi<j}i 
might be reaped by a strict adherence to the plan of supplying, 
through a trustworthy person, the immediate wants of the necessi- 
tous, accommodating them if necessary with a night's lodging, and 
then, without permitting them to solicit charity, seeing. them out 
of the town. During the first year, there were thus relieved of 
men, women, and children, 1036, and that at an expense of only 
L. 8, 10s. 3d. The salary of the officer was, of course, the chief 
expense, and as the public both neglected to contribute to the 
funds, and also returned to the practice of giving indiscriminately 
to persons of whose characters and circumstances they were igno- 
rant, the society was unfortunately broken up. 

Bruc^s Fund* — This charitable endowment, which, under a con- 
tinued system of proper management, will undoubtedly prove a 
great permanent benefit to the poor of the burgh, was instituted 
by the late Charles Key Bruce, Esq., M. D., sometime of Phila- 
delphia, United States, who had received his education in Mus- 
selburgh. By his settlement, dated in 1826, he bequeathed 
^* L. 2000 Sterling, as a permanent fund, the interest of which to 
be applied to the relief of the poor of the town of Musselburgh." 
This sum was placed by Dr Bruce's executors in Chancery, from 



INVERESK, 301 

whence it was obtained only in terms of an arrangement regarding 
its investment and administration, approved of by the Court of 
Chancery. The chief and second magistrates of the burgh, the 
minister, and ordained assistant minister of Inveresk, and the 
Sheriff of the county, are ex officio trustees. Dr Bruce's legatees 
having been declared entitled to a proportional share of the resi- 
due of his estate, several additions have been made to the original 
sum ; these, with interest which accrued before the money was 
obtained, have increased the amount, which is now invested in 
L. 3015, three per cents, reduced. The trustees apply the year- 
ly produce for the beneGt of the poor of the town : 1. one-half in 
supplying with coals, meal, flannel, or money, such aged and in* 
firm persons as may be selected by them ; 2. two-sis^ths for edu- 
cating poor destitute orphans, and the children of such poor per- 
sons as they may select ; and 3. the remaining sixth in clothing 
such children. The good effected by this sum will form an im* 
perishable memorial of the generous donor. 

Hastie*s Fund, — This fund has not yet come into operation, 
neither is its amount yet known, but eventually, on the death of 
several annuitants, it may become of some importance. By a deed 
of settlement executed by George Hastie, Esq. Midcalder, who 
died in 1 832, his trustees are directed, after the purposes of the 
trust are fulfilled, to distribute the reversion of his estate amongst 
the kirk-sessions of the Established Church, and the Secession 
church-sessions in the parishes of Inveresk and Tranent, in the pro- 
portion of six-tenths to Inveresk, and four-tenths to Tranent. 
This money, which he directed to be called " Hastie's Fund," is to 
be committed to the management of the above-mentioned bodies for 
the purpose of being lent out at interest to decent tradesmen or other 
industrious persons within their respective parishes, in such sums as 
these persons may require, and can find security for; and the benevo- 
lent bequeather recommends that a preference should be given 
to young men beginning business. He also directs that a factor 
shall be appointed for the purpose of transacting the business of 
the fund, who is to receive one-half of the annual interest, the 
other half is to be converted into stock or principal. 

Prison, — The prison, attached to the town hall, and for the sa- 
crilegious erection of which, with the consecrated stones of Our 
Lady of Loretto's chapel, the thunders of the Vatican were long 
duly fulminated against the burgh, consists of three rooms, a 
debtor's room, a lock-up, and another cell. It is believed to be 



302 KDINBURGHSHIRE. 

quite secure. 'J'he average number of debtors annually confined, 
many of them for trifling sums, is 10. The number of other pri- 
soners is considerable, owing to the situation of the town upon the 
great thorough&re to the east and south.* 

The system of police, although much yet remains to be done, has 
recently undergone very great improvement under the direction ofthe 
active, intelligent, and indefatigable superintendant, Mr List ; and a 
set of records which he has commenced, connected with the prison, 
will in time furnish, on a limited scale, a valuable source of infor- 
mation on the statistics of crime. These records consist of four sepa- 
rate volumes for the different descriptions of prisoners. Opposite the 
name of each prisoner, are inserted in various columns, their resi- 
dence, occupation, date of committal, whether previously commit- 
ted, the offence, whether drunk or sober when committed, state of 
education as regards reading and writing, age, description minute- 
ly marked, and general character. 

In the cleaning department, much remains to be accomplished, 
in order to take away from us the too well merited reproach of 
Scotch nastiness. Vast numbers of slaughtered sheep hung up 
entire in ghastly rows continue to offend the eye along all the tho- 
roughfares : the filthy puddle generative of disease too frequently 
stagnates in the densely populated closes, and the detestable ha- 
bits in which the children of the common orders are reared i^annot 
be too strongly reprobated. 

Fairs, — There is only one fair held throughout the year, which 
lasts for two days, and which might be discontinued, no traffic be« 
ing carried on at it ; and not only the two fair days, but the rest of 
the week being spent in idleness by many of the working-classes, 
a strong temptation is ofiered to drunkenness. On the second fair 
day, there are races on the links, and other popular amusements. 
Within the last fifty years, this fair was a scene of general resort, 
and most extensive sales were transacted iu cattle, linen, and wool- 
len goods, and the various articles of household use, but all this is 
changed ; the transactions of business have given place to holiday 
amusements. 

Inns and Ale-houses, — The " Musselburgh Arms," an old- 

* There is extant a list of all the rebel prisoners received into custody at the jail 
here* between the 19th February 1746, and the 1 3th September of the tame year, 
in which are recorded the time of their capture, the place where taken, the expense 
of their subsistence, and other particulars. They seem not to have been treated with 
any ceremony, as the Iblbwing indorsement on this document by the town treasurer 
seems to hint, *< ffor ttraw to ye prisoners, L. 5, Ss.*' 



INVEUESK. 303 

established and well-conducted house, is the chief inn, and affords 
the bes^f accommodation. There are no fewer than 85 houses 
licensed for the retail of ardent spirits within the parish — a number 
altogether disproportioned to the population. The mischiefs aris- 
ing from the unlimited extent to which spirit licenses are granted 
are incalculable; this, together with the practice of selling ardent 
spirits on the Lord's day — a practice which cannot be too severely 
reprehended — is productive of the most injurious consequences, 
particularly to the labouring classes. Modern improvers of society 
say, destroy the taste for spirituous liquors ; but certainly it is 
equally reasonable to say, destroy the opportunity of obtaining 
them. Justices of the Peace and Magistrates of burghs have 
not sufficiently attended to the importance of this, and to such 
inattention may, in a great measure, be traced the rapid increase 
of poor's rates. It was surely in a moment of no common infatua* 
tion, that Parliament vested the power of granting spirit licenses 
in the hands of the magistrates of burghs. 

FueL — The only fuel used is coal, which is got within the pa- 
rish or in the immediate vicinity. Small quantities of English 
coal also are landed at Fisherrow harbour. The price of the for- 
mer is from Ifd. to 5Jd. per cwt. at the pit's mouth, that of the 
latter is about L. 1 per ton. 

Gas Work, — A Gas Work was established by a joint stock Com- 
pany in 1831, from which Portobello is also supplied. Gas is in 
general use both in shops and places of business, and in dwelling- 
houses. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 
This parish has shared with others in the vast changes and im- 
provements which have taken place since the date of the former 
Statistical Account. Its character has undergone almost a 
total transformation. The plough has long ago invaded the site 
of its extensive barracks, which had often accommodated upwards 
of 2000 men,* and of those veterans who here found a retreat at 
the close of the war few now remain. In the peaceful arts of life, 
however, a change for the better is not less striking ; manufactures 
have sprung up ; trade and commerce have increased ; agricul- 
ture is prosecuted with superior skill, new zeal, and far greater 
success. The means of existence are more abundantly supplied ; 

* So completely did the breaking up of the camp alter the aspect of the place, that 
when the last regiment marched out, a wag wrote over the walls, ** A town to let, 
apply to Bailie Stewart." 



304 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

luxuries are more widely diffused, and comforts unknown to our 
forefathers are enjoyed by the humblest of the people, jlabits of 
intemperance, however, it is to be feared, have become more com- 
mon, and form the chief barrier in the way of social improvement. 
Wages have been greatly raised, but the style of living has be- 
come more expensive ; recklessness and improvidence are more 
common characteristics of the labouring classes, and pauperism 
has consequently been on the increase. The principal improve- 
ment of which the system of agriculture seems susceptible is a 
still farther extension of the system of tile-draining, by which the 
inferior soils will be rendered more productive. Where the sup- 
ply of coal is so abundant, the improvement of the harbour would 
unquestionably increase trade and manufactures ; and a more 
complete education bestowed upon the children of the poor, would 
produce a greater refinement of manners, conduct more strictly 
moral, and habits of economy, sobriety, and industry. 
October 1839. 



PARISH OF WEST CALDER. 

PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND 

TWEEDDALE. 

THE REV. WILLIAM LEARMONTH, A.M. MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History, 
Boundaries. — West Calder is bounded on the east by Mid- 

Calder; on the south, by Linton and Dunsyre; on the west, by 
Carnwath and Cambusnethan ; and on the north, by Whitburn and 
Livingstone, which last are separated from it by Briech Water, 
a tributary of the Almond. The parish is about 10 miles long, 
by 5i broad. 

CoaU 4'C' — The greater part of this parish probably stands on 
rocks of the carboniferous system. Coal has been dug for in vari- 
ous places, and a supply of a tolerably good kind has been got for 
several years from Woodmuir, about three miles and a-half west 
from the village. At Leven-seat, four miles west, and at Baad's 
mill, one mile and a-half south-west, coal has been found, and the 
working of it has been in progress at both these places. The sup- 
ply, has as yet been small and of inferior quality. Abundance of 



WEST CALDEU. 305 

limestone is found in connection with the coal at Baad's Mill, 
which, when burned, is considered of a superior quality for build- 
ing, but inferior for manure, bein^ of a tiiore coaly nature than 
that in the neighbouring parishes. A supply of tolerably good 
lime has for many years been had at Handerwood. There was 
a stratum of limestone at Limefield, about a mile and a*half east 
from the village, about nine or ten feet thick, which is now ex- 
hausted, and the kilns are completely removed. 

Ironstone has been wrought for a number of years on the estate 
of Handerwood by the Wilsontown Iron Company ; and for about 
three years past, on the estate of Muldren, at the western extre- 
mity of the parish, by the Shotts Company. It has been found 
about two fathoms above the coal at Longford ; but only a small 
quantity has as yet been wrought there. 

Botany. — The Flora of the parish is varied and interesting, 
possessing many rare plants. Pyrola uniflora is to be found in 
Harburn Firwood; Lotiicera caprifolium fn the hedges; Dryas 
octopeiala at Levenseat, Handerwood ; Viola luiea at Woodmuir ; 
Gayea lutea^ or Omithoyalum luteum^ is more abundant on the 
banks of Briechwater, than at Auchtertool Linn, one of its most 
noted stations. Besides the Ericas common to most of our Scot- 
tish heaths, there is a rich variety, seldom to be found, of the Erica 
vulyaris. Ferns abound throughout the parish ; and in less than 
half an acre of ground, in a small glen on the border of the vil- 
lage, fourteen species of Polypodium^ Aspidiutn^ Oreopteris^ and 
Asplenium have been found. The meadows are enriched with 
numerous varieties of Orchis mascula^ Morio^ latifolia, and ma* 
eulatOf also with Lisiera ovata, Ophioghssum vulyatum, and Pm- 
yuicula vulgaris. The drier grounds abound with Habenaria m» 
ridisy and H. albida. The parasite Orobanche major is very 
abundant. There are hundreds of other plants, common to the 
most of Scotland, which it would be superfluous to mention here. 

II. — Civil History. 
Jntiquities.^^Tov^eird the southern extremity of the parish, on the 

Harburn estate, there was an old castle, said to have been fortified 

by Cromwell, to repress the depredations of the Moss-troopers. 

On the top of a rising ground called Castlecraig, there are the 
remains of a small Roman camp, — within the eurvirons of which 
several Roman coins have been dug up< 

Parochial Registers. — These have been so kept, that they do 

EDINBURGH. U 



306 



EDINBURGHSHrRE. 



not enable us to present any accurate account of the deaths, birth^ 
or marriages. 

Land-owneri and their Valuation, — 

Tbe Rev. Houston Douglas, Baads, 
Alexander Young, Esq., W. S,, Hartnirn, 
Thomas Gloag, Esq., Limefield, 
Thomas Hardie, Esq., Grange, 
Stewart B. Hare, Esq., Handerwood, 
Mrs Maitlandt Hermand, 
Rer. James Logan, Esq., Loganlee, 
George Watson's Hospital, Briechmill, 
James M'Leod, Esq., Polbeth, 
William John SmeUie, Esq., Addiewell, 
John M. Mowbray, Esq., W. S., Hartwood, 
Sir Henry Jardioe, Harwood, 
John Dodsy Esq., Middle Crosswood, . 
John Davie Martin, Esq. Gaviside, &e. 
James Graham, Esq., Muldren, 
Thomas Balfour, Eisq., Woodmuir,* 
Andrew Steele, Esq. Crosswoodhill, . 
John Kidd, Esq., North Cabenshaw, &e. 
James Elder, Esq., Bents, . 
James Camithers, Esq., South Cabtnshaw, 
James Paterson, Esq., East Torphin, 
Mrs Wyllie, Annatneld, 
Allan Gibson, Esq., Rashiehill, 
Migor Berrie, West Torphin, 
John Graham, Esq., Meadowheed* 
Claud Storrie, Esq., Blackhill, 
John Penny, Esq., BimiehiU, 
Gibson, Esq., Broomhill, 

ToUl, Scots money, USISS 10 4 

Modern Bu%ldings.'—'r\\B mansion-houses and offices of Her^ 
mand were built by the late Lord Hermand about 1797. Lime* 
field and Harburn were built about 1804 These are laige and 
commodious houses, well finished, and the surrounding grounds 
tastefully laid out and adorned. Hartwood is a smaller, but a 
hahdsomer house, built about 1807, on a good site, by the father 
of the present proprietor. This, with Harwood, built about 1768^ 
is in the common form of a good country manse, with a kitchen 
attached to the one end, and a room of similar size attached to 
the other. Gaviside, built 1730, is a small but neat house, with 
very superior offices attached to it Muldren, rebuilt in 1828, 
isof the same stamp, and Bents was built about 1825. ChapeltoD 
was formed in 1780 into a neat one storey house, with good attic 
bed-rooms, by the late Mr Gloag of Limefield. The other pro* 
prietors who live on their property have only small one storey 
houses. The farm-houses atid offices on the Harburn estate are of 
a superior orden. Some good houses have of late been built on the 
estate of Baads ; and others are about to be built. Tbe old man- 

* John Weir, Esq., is proprietor of Woodmuir coal. 

4 



L.S02 


Sd9 6 6 


213 IS 


206 7 


200 


192 18 


182 16 8 


142 18 6 


192 8 8 


118 8 4 


114 5 9 


110 


97 13 4 


63 


80 


60 11 8 


^08 


51 2 2 


50 


46 14 5 


42 18 5 


S3 11 8 


83 6 8 


81 1 5 


27 


26 


19 11 


16 11 7 



WEST CALDER, 307 

sion-house of Baads is a very small house of two storeys, occupied 
by the person who farms the land surrounding it. The farm-houses 
in general throughout the parish are of an inferior kind. The 
manse was rebuilt in a large and commodious form, with back- 
kitchen and two small rooms above, separated by a staircase from 
the other building, and finished in 1837. The offices were built in 
1822, and are also good. The village has been much improved of 
late in appearance, by old houses being taken down, and several 
neat, small cottages built. 

III. — Population. 
There have been 13 illegitimate births in the parish within the 
three years, 1838, 1839, 1840. 

In 1801, the population amonnted to 1185 
1811, . . 1435 

1821, . . 1458 
1831. . . 1617 

1841, 1666 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture and Produce* — The general process of agriculture 
in this parish consists in spreading lime and other sorts of manure 
on lea, and then taking two or three crops of oats. After this, the 
field lies three or four years in grass. The farmers have dis- 
covered that lime acts as a powerful solvent on all kinds of mossy 
earth, and they have applied the discovery with great success. In 
some places, the soil, which is in general very wet, has been much 
improved by draining. It is generally believed, that, if a regular 
system of draining were introduced, the soil would not only be much 
more productive, but the harvest two or three weeks earlier than it 
is at present. Some of the proprietors have improved tlie soil and 
the appearance of their estates, by Enclosing their fields with 
double rows of hedges and ditches, and filling up the vacancy 
with, in general, fir trees adapted to the climate. They have 
also succeeded in producing a regular rotation of crops, according 
to the most approved modes of agriculture. Wheat, barley, flax, 
pease and beans, turnips and potatoes are raised in this parish ; 
but the grain most generally produced, is oats, the average pro- 
duce of which may be about from 6 to 8 bolls an acre. When the 
ground is laid down with grass seeds, the prevailingcrop is rye-grass. 
Clover is little sown. A greater quantity of rye-grass seed is pre- 
served than what is necessary for next year, so that in good years, 
from 150 to 250 bolls are sold out of the parish. 

There are considerably more horses reared than are required to 



308 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

supply the wants of the people ; and the rearing of c^le baavbeen 
attended to by some of the proprietors and tenants* According to 
the last Statistical Account^ the rents were mostly paid from the 
sale of cattle ; but during the course of the last twenty years, great 
improvements have been made in the management of the dairy ; 
and at present a considerable number of the tenants depend, in a 
great measure, on its proceeds to enable them to pay their rents. 
They produce good butter, and cheese, of eicellent quality. 
Some of them transport their butter and butter-milk regularly 
once or twice a-week to Edinburgh market. 

It is scarcely possible to ascertain the rent of arable land, be- 
cause the greater number of farms have some moss or moor con- 
nected with them. According to the estimation of the farmers, 
the arable portion of their farms costs them from 14s. to L. I an 
acre. The size of the farms is seldom greater than what is ne- 
cessary to support a family, and almost every attempt (o accumu- 
late this kind of property has failed. The want of capital prco 
vents the farmers from making important improvements, yet a 
good deal has been effected of late years, by some active and en- 
terprising tenants. The estates of Harbuni, Hartwood, and Her-* 
mand, have, during the last forty years, been adorned with small 
plantations, and greatly improved in their agriculture, by the in- 
telligent attention of the proprietors. Harburn, in particular, re- 
sembles an oasis in a desert Trees were rare about sixty or seven- 
ty years ago in the parish, but are now abundant. 

V. — Parochial Economt. 
Ecclesiastical State. — Previous to the year 1646, West Calder 

was a part of the parish of Mid- Calder, and had a cha|iel belong- 
ing to it at a place three-fourths of a mile from the village of West 
Calder. This place is still called Chapelton ; and the propri^or 
has in his possession a large hollow stone, which seems to have been 
the font of the chapel. In the year 1647, the Commissioners for 
the Plantation of Kirks and Valuation of Teinds, valued the teinds 
of Calder Comitis, which included the parishes of Mid and West 
Calders ; and allocated the whole teinds as stipend to the minis- 
ters of the two parishes. West Calder stipend after this amount- 
ed to 800 merks, together with 50 merks for communion elements, 
and 30 merks for grass, till it ^as raised by the Government grant 
for the augmentation of small stipends, to L.I 50 Sterlings with 200 
merks for communion elements. The glebe consists of 24 impe- 
rial acres, and is worth about 20s. an acre. There has been also, 



WEST CALDER. 309 

for forty yeai'S, a Dissenting meeting-house in the village, be- 
longing to the United Secession. The inhabitants adhered to 
the church in about the proportion of sixteen to eleven. 

Education. — The parish school has generally attendrag it from 
50 to 90 scholars. The teacher has a good house and garden. 
The salary is the maximum. The probable yearly amount of fees 
paid to the parochial schoolmaster is about L. 15 or L. 16. The 
other emoluments may probably amount to from L. 35 to L. 40. 
There is another school in the village, attended by about the same 
number of children as the parish school ; but, as the teacher de- 
pends chiefly on the school fees for a living, he must be very poorly 
supported. There is likewise a school four miles west of the vil- 
lage, attended by a great number of children. 

Poor and Parochhl Funds. — The funds for supplying the poor 
of this parish, arose formerly from the weekly collections, from the 
mortcloth money, from the sum of 2s. 6d. given at each marriage, 
and from the interest of a bond for L. 1 00. The following table 
shows the rate of collections for six months in the summer and 
autumn : In 1743, L.5, lis. Id.; in 1773, L.6, 3s. 9d.; in 1783, 
L.10, 10s. l^d.; in .1793, L.e, 16s. 5d.; in 1794, L.10, 8s. 4d. 
The number of those who received charity from the poor's funds 
during the above years, were from 10 to 15, and the sum given to 
6ach was at an average of 3s. per month. 

The first assessment for the poor look place in 1775. 

The aBsenment in 18d5, amounted to L.129 6 7 ; collections, L.22 4 

18dd, do. 113 3 3 do. 14 8 2 

1837, do. 129 6 7 do. 13 12 6 

The highest sura given to any pauper on the roll, is at present 
at the rate of L.7, 4s. yearly, and the lowest L.1, 10s. The 
average of the present collections is about 5s. 9d. weekly. The 
mortcloth has almost ceased to be of any value to the poor's fund 
as it is very seldom used. 

1841. 



PARISH OF GLENCROSS. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALE* 

THE REV. ALEXANDER TORRENCE, MINISTER, 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
Name. — Glencross, or Glencorse, as it is now very generally 

written, according to Chalmers in his Caledonia, derives its name 

*^ from a remarkable cross which had once been erected in the 

vale of Glencross by pious hands, and which also gave the namet 

to Crosshouses." 

Extent, Boundaries, Sfc, — The parish forms nearly a square, 
extending about three miles. It is bounded on the east and south, 
by the parish of Lasswade ; and on the west and north, by the 
parishes of Penicuik and Colinton. It is situated on the south 
side of the Pentland hills, some of which are in the parish. 

Topographical Appearances. — This parish is beautifully diver- 
sified by a variety of picturesque scenery. The surface is of an ir- 
regular and undulating appearance, and is rendered peculiarly 
interesting from the variety of hill and dale which characterises 
it, and which, from the quantity of wood with which it abounds, 
produces a very beautiful landscape. The northern part of the 
parish, which includes some of the Pentland hills, rises to a very 
considerable height, and forms a striking contrast to that which 
has been now described. Prom the high grounds at the foot of 
the hills, the view is of the most commanding description, extend- 
ing eastward as far as the mouth of the Forth, including a great 
part of East Lothian, and to the southward, over Mid Lothian, 
part of Tweeddale, along the range of the Moorfoot hills. The 
hill grounds afford excellent pasture for sheep, and are well supplied 
with springs of the purest water. Turnhouse hill, which is the 
highest in the parish, is 1403 feet above the level of the seia. 

Hydrography.^- hi a distance of about two or three gunshots 
from the manse, rises the Crawley spring, from which Edinburgh 



OLBNCROSS. 311 

and Leitb are abundantly supplied with water. It discharges 60 
cubic feet of water per minute. 

Glencross or Logan water, which rises about 5 or 6 miles to 
the westward among the Pentland hills, flows with some slight 
windings in an easterly direction through the parish ; and then 
making a sudden turn to the south, falls into the north Esk at 
Auchindinny. 

About a mile above the Crawley spring, in the valley formed 
by the double range of the Pentland hills, is the Compensation 
Reservoir, so named from its being intended to supply to the 
mills upon the Esk, the deflciency of water necessarily pro- 
duced from the loss of so copious a stream as Crawley. It was 
made at an immense expense by the Edinburgh Water Com- 
pany. It extends over about 30 acres of land, and forms a very 
beautiful lake, enclosed on eachside by the hills; and covers, to a 
considerable depth, the old church and burying ground of St Ca- 
tharines. It is formed by means of a great embankment across 
the glen, 1*28 yards in length, 140 yards in thickness at the btise, 
and slopes gradually to the top, 130 feet above the former level of 
the stream. To render it impervious to water, it was necessary 
to clear out the foundation down to the rock, across the whole 
width of the glen, to nearly the proposed thickness of the embank- 
ment This was a very arduous undertaking, and at one time seem- 
ed indeed almost hopeless, from the depth it was necessary to go 
down, (upwards of 40 feet,) before the rock was found, and the 
various casualties to which such a work was unavoidably exposed. 

The middle part of the embankment, from its base upon the 
rock, throughout its whole length, to the top, was then formed into 
a wall of clay, 30 feet in width, well-puddled, while the two sides 
were made up from the earth in the neighbourhood, and the gra- 
vel, sand, and debris which had been removed in excavating the 
foundation. 

Through this embankment are built two great tunnels, one at 
the lower part of the reservoir, for giving out the necessary quan- 
tity of water required for the mills, and the other the *^ safety 
tunnel," near the top, for letting off what in a flood would have 
endangered the safety of the mound. The water which passes 
by the ** Wastewier," when it overflows, and that which is allow- 
ed to escape through the safety tunnel, form at times two beautiful 
Cascades over the rock, as the water falls into its former channel. 

This embankment was begun in 1819, but, in consequence of 
the great and unforeseen difficulties which attended its formation. 



312 EDINBURGHSHIUE. 

was Qot completed till 1.824* There were employed daily, during 
that time, from 200 to 400 men, chiefly Irish, many of whom were 
accommodated in temporary booths erected at the place» James 
Jardine, Esq. Civil^Engineer, Edinburgh, planned and superin* 
lended the execution of the work^ and by his skill and ingenuity, 
and indefatigable perseverance, surmounted the many discourag- 
ing difficulties, which, at almost every stage of the work, present- 
ed themselves, and retarded very materially its progress. 

Geology and Mineralogy,-^The rocks in the lower parts of the 
parish belong to the coal formation. Cool has been wrought in 
the parish, but not for several years*. The rocks in the upper 
part of the parish, viz. those in the Pentland hills, are of the floetz 
and trap series ; in the slate series we find clay-slate and grey- 
Ti'acke ; io the trap scries clinkstone, clinkstone porphyry, green- 
stone, compact felspar, claystone, elaystooe tuff, and porphyry* 
The rocks on each side of the valley through which Glencross 
water flows are chiefly porphyry. This porphyritic rock is 
frequently also amygdaloidal, having its cavities filled with 
mineral substances of different kinds, such as calcareous spar, 
heavy spar, and agate. Beautiful sections of this rock are to 
be seen on each side of the water, a little above Glencross 
Bridge^ Professor Jameson, who annually, with his class, visits 
this plaoe, considers these rocks to be of igneous origin. He re* 
marks also that the porphyritic rocks there, have a striking resem- 
blance to the porphyritic rocks in the Andes, as described by 
Humboldt He supposes that, at an early period, in consequence 
of some great convulsion of nature, a rent had taken place in the 
rocks, which then united the glen, and, tearing them asunder, 
emptied a lake which had once existed above, and formed tlie 
narrow and romantic defile through which the water now flows» 

The ^^ siller mine" is a very beautiful rock of porphyry, in 
which there are several veins of heavy spar, and which, as it is 
often associated with metallic ore, was at one time wrought in ex^ 
pectatioq of finding copper or silver. 

Turnhouse hilU on the west side of Glencross water, rests on 
conglomerate, as. was very distinctly shown before the formation 
of the Compensation reservoir, which now washes its base. Over 
this lies greenstone, next amygdaloid, then trap-tuff, and last of 
all, porphyry, which forms the upper part of the hill. On the 
norjth-east declivity of Turnhouse hill, claystone is found imbed- 
ded, in compact felspar, to. whiph it is intimately related. It 
gradually passes into porphyry, which rests immediately upon iU 



GLENCROSS. 3l3 

The claystone rests upon elaystone tuff» with whieb it is often in- 
termtxedy and with whieb it perhaps alternates. The elaystone 
tuff has rather a remarkable appearance, and from the soft and 
ftiable state in which it is found, (produced yery much from the 
action of the weather,) has been supposed by some to- be volcanic 
ashes. In this rock are to be found veins of conchoidal honistoney 
which passes into striped jasper, and has a very beautiful appearance. 
The elaystone tuff rests upon clidkstone porphyry, as was verydis*- 
tinctly shown when the great excavation was made for the founda- 
tion of the embankment already described. 

Boulder stones, composed of quartz and dilorite, are fbund in 
different places in the course of the water, and on the high grounds 
in the Pentland range.* 

SaiL — There is a considerable variety of soil 'm this parish,; 
from the 6nest loam to gravelly and stiff day. It is capable, 
however, of bearing all kiiHls of cropa^ and seems^ to be well 
adapted for potato and turnip husbandry. The inferior soils are 
gradually becoming better, from the extensive draining now very 
generally practised, and the abundant application of lime and 
dung. 

A^ony.— The common heaths and natural grasses prevail very 
generally on the hill, and afford excellent pasture for sheep. 

Among the rarer plants found in the parish may be mentioned 
Carex axiUaris, Epipactis pahistrU^ Primvia farinosa^ Aipidium^ 
fragile. 

There are some beautiful specimens of Portugal laurel in the 
garden atXoganbank, which have grown to a wonderful size; 
and some fine large variegated hollies at Woodhouselee, some of 
which are 35 feet in height, growing at an elevation of upwards 
of 600 feet above the level of the sea. 

In the last Statistical Account, it is stated, ** that there is a silver 
fir at Woodhouselee, which is the oldest tree of its species in Mid- 
Lothian, and has always been admired for its size and beauty. It was 
planted in a dry soil in a garden, about the first year of the present 
century. In March 1759, at four feet above theground, it measured 
7 feet 4| iinches in circumference. In March 1793, at the same 
height, it measured 11 feet 1| inches. During these thirty-three 
years, it, therefore, increased in circumference 46 inches. Its 

* For more detailed descriptions of the Pentland Hilb, see Professor Jamesonls 
account in the Memoirs of the Wernerian Societ/y and thclate Mr Cunningham's 
Geology of the Lothians, and -Mr Madaren^ volume also on the Oeology of the Lo- 
thiaus. 



314 EDiNBUIiGHSUiRE* 

greatestgrowth was in the year 1760, when it increased precisely two 
inches. During ail theother years, its increase in circumference was 
from one inch to one and a-half inchannually. This fine tree, bow- 
ever, is now upon the decay. It is ascertained from other instances 
that the age of the silver fir is limited in this country to within a 
century. It is in its greatest perfection when about 80 years old ; 
and if placed in a proper situation, it is capable, during all that 
period, of increasing upon an average, about a cubic foot of wood 
annually." About 35 years ago, a liberal coating of fresh earth 
was applied all round the trunk, and to the extremity of the bran- 
ches, which raised the surface next the stem, upwards of a foot, 
and which has very much revived this noble tree. In January 
1838, it measured at three feet from the ground, (to allow for the 
new coating of earth,) 13 feet 4 inches in circumference ; having 
increased since 1793, or during the last forty-five years, about 2 
feet 1 inch, being at the rate of nearly 4^ eighths of an anch an- 
nually. It still appears to be in a healthy state, producing new 
and healthy growths annually, though some of the branches near 
the ground are partially decayed. 

The plantations, which are very extensive, are in a thriving con- 
dition. The trees are of every variety, both of soft and hard- wood, 
and seem all well adapted for the soiK On the estate of Glen* 
corse, there are a number of very fine old larches, not much, if at 
all, inferior to those on the Duke of AtholFs property at Dunkeld.* 

11. — Civil History. 
Chalmers in his Caledonia mentions, ** that this parish was 

formed in 1616, from the old parishes of Pentland and Penicuik." 
After the Reformation, according to the same author, the old pa- 
rish of Pentland was suppressed and annexed to that of Lasswade* 
This explains why, in the former Statistical Account, the pa- 
rish is said to have been separated from that of Lasswade and 
Penicuik. I do not know on what authority Chalmers makes 
this assertion, but I find in the Presbytery Records repeated men- 
tion made of the parish of Glencross, so early as 1589, when Mr 
Andrew Forrester was minister. The most likely explanation of 
this seeming discrepancy is, that, previous to that date, it had been 
a parish quoad sacra. 

Historical Notices. — This parish is connected with events that 
are calculated to give to it considerable historical interest Wood- 
houselee, now Old Woodhouselee, the ruins of which still remain, 

' Since writing the above, these fine trees baye been cut down. 



GLENUO0S8. 815 

at the southern extremity of the parish, had been conferred by 
James V. upon his favourite, Oliver Sinclair, who commanded the 
Scottish army at the rout of Solway. To the offence given to his 
nobles by the itUjudged elevation of that person over them, is to 
be attributed the calamitous issue of that battle, and subsequent 
death of the King, who died a few days afterwards of a broken 
heart, leaving his daughter Mary an infant only eight days old* 
To a circumstance accidentally connected with this place is to be 
traced the fatal termination of the misfortunes of that unfortunate 
princess. Hamilton of Bothwelhaugh, who was a zealous supporter 
of Mary against the ambitious views of the R^ent Murray, had 
been at the battle of Langside, and shared in the misfortunes of 
the vanquished in that unsuccessful attempt to reinstate Mary in 
her kingdom. His lady, Isabella Sinclair, the daughter of Oliver 
Sinclair, and heiress of Woodhouselee, fled from Bothwelhaugh 
to this place, in the hope that she would escape the vengeance of 
the Regent for her husband's crimes, in her own paternal estate ; 
but in this she was sadly disappointed, for, by the order, or, at 
least, with the consent of the Regent, she was turned out at nighty 
in the month of November, exposed, almost without any coverings 
to the severities of that inclement season, and before morning was 
in a state of complete derangement, from which she never after- 
wards recovered. From that time, Hamilton vowed the destruc* 
tion of the Regent, which he accordingly effected at Linlithgow 
about nine months afterwards. At the time of the Regent's death, 
negociations were in progress for the delivering up of Mary into 
his hands, as Elizabeth felt there was not only trouble but danger 
attending the long detention of her unfortunate rival. The Regent's 
death, however, having disappointed Elizabeth's hopes of getting 
rid of Mary in a way that accorded with her views and inclination, 
probably determined her to the cruel line of policy she adopted 
with respect to her, and which eventually led to the catastrophe 
that terminated the life of that unhappy Princess. 

The battle of Pentland hills was fought at Rullion Green in 
this parish, on the 2dth November 1666. The Covenanters, com- 
manded by Colonel Wallace, were attacked by the King's troopsi 
under the command of General Dalziel of Binns, on the position 
which they had taken up on the morning of that day, on a rising 
ground, a little to the south of Turnhouse hill» and defeated with 
considerable slaughter. 

There is a stone erected at the place to the memory of those 
who fell on that occasion, called the ** Martyrs' tomb." 



31^ EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Z^zm^-otonerf.*— The chief laod^owners id the parish are^ Jamet 
Tytler, Esq* of WoodhouseIee»> patron of the parish ; Joha Trot- 
ter, Esq. of CastIelaw;W iiliam Child, Esq. of OleDCorse; Har* 
ry M. Inglts, Esq. of Loganbank ; Major Wilkie of Easter Busb ; 
£dl of whom have residences in the parish. There are, besides, se- 
veral other smoftler proprietors. 

Eminent CkaracUws. — The kte WiHiam Tytler, Esq. author of 
the Enquiry int6 the Evidence against Mary Queen of Scots, and 
his son, the Honourable Lord Woodbovselee, one of the Senators- 
of the Ckillege of Justice, and oner of Uie Lords Commissioners of 
Justiciary in Scotland, author of the Life of Lord Kames, and 
other works of great literary merit, resided during summer at Wood- 
houselee. Patrick Praser Tytler, Esq. Advocate, youngest son of 
Lord Woodhouselee, whose History of Scotland is so justly cele- 
brated, spent his boyhood there. 

The late Rev. Dr loglis, author of the Vindication* of Eccle- 
siastical Establishments) Sec and a distinguished leader ia the 
Church of Scodand,. had a property in this parish, where for 
more than; twenty years he and* his family resided, during the sum- 
mer season. 

Parochial Regitf^rs, — The date of the earliest parish record i» 
1643, where it is stated that << this day, Aprille 21, 164d» Mr Ro- 
bert AUsone was chosen to be the min^ at Glencorsse by the una* 
nimous consent of elders, heritors, and people." 

October 16, 1643. — ** This day, Mr RoberU Alisone received 
ordination by imposition of the hands of the Presby trie^ in the kirk 
of Glencorsse." 

The registers of collections and disbursements begin in Novem- 
ber 1601, and continue regularly in different volumes to the pre- 
sent day. 

The registers of proclamations, marriages, baptisms, and deaths, 
Degtn in 1672, and are continued with some slight interruptions to 
the present time. 

The diffisrent volumes of which the parish record consists^ are, 
upon the wholoj in a good state of preservation, and were all late^ 
ly rebound. 

It is astonishing to see how much money was raised by paro- 
chial collections- and subscriptions for various purposes, altogether 
unconnected with the* parish. The session seems not only to have 
provided for the wants of their own poor,, but to have extended 
their parochial contributions to various benevolent purposes in Scot- 
land, England, and Ireland, and even in various parts of Europe* 



GLeNCROSS*. 317 

The s^esipo records bear al^ that collections were sometimes 
mtiAe by order of act9 of Privy- CouQcil for the erection of difie* 
r^t wiorks in various places in Scotland, suf^b as bridges, harbours, 
8ftf a«Mi for the relief of persons in slavery in Algiers. 

The session records are chiefly filled with accounts of money 
given to the poor and church officers, and with the administration 
of church discipline, to those guiky of immoral conduct, in all 
ranks of life, such as drunkenness, scolding, swearing, fighting, 
stealing, &c* and which far exceeded in minuteness and severity 
the discipline of the present day. 

It seems to have been the practice for parties giving in their 
names for proclamation of banns, to deposit a sum of money, ge- 
nerally a crown piece or dollar, in the session-clerk's hand, and 
some person became caution for another crown in behalf of the 
other party, ^^ which money is to be disposed upon for the use of 
the poor, in case of miscarriage betwixt the parties*'' 

AnHquUies.^^There are distinct vestiges of two camps in thi3 
parish, one at Castlelaw, and the other on a rising piece of ground, 
which forms part of the base of Turnhouse hill. There were^ a few 
years ago, the very perfect remains of a Druidical temple on an 
eminence on Mr M^Niel's property, close upon the high road, 
near Marchwell. It formed a circle of large stones, placed near 
each others forty feet in diameter. Lately, however, they have 
been heedlessly broken and removed, to build a wall which now 
runs through the middle of it 

A few years ago, a number of ston&^coffins were discovered, 
when digging for gravel in a field close to the church^road near 
Glencorse gate, in which bones, much decomposed, were found. 
The coffins were of a very rude construction, formed of flat atones 
of various sizes. They lay quite close to and parallel with one 
another, and were about three feet from the surface. To what pe- 
riod they are to be referred, it is impossible to determine, and there 
is no tradition on the subject 

Modem Buildings. — The chief modern buildings are the man- 
sion-houses of Bush, Glencorse, Loganbank, and Bellwood. 

The old mansion-house of Greenlaw was converted into a French 
prison at the breaking out of the war, after the short peace in 1S03, 
and was for a number of years the only French prison in Scotland. 
Afterwards in 1813, Government having purchased the grounds 
there, a spacious depot was erected, calculated to contain 7000 
men, with suitable barracks for the accommodation of soldiers. 
The war, however, having come to a termination before the build- 



318 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

iDgs were finishedi they were never occupied aa a pnaon^ and hare 
not been applied to any other use. Lately, the barracks have been 
put into good repair, and have occasionally been occupied as a de- 
pot for the reserve companies of regiments of the line stationed in 
Scotland. 

IIL— Population. 
The returns to Government exhibit the following acount of the 

population : 

Census in 1801, - 990 

1811, - 465 

1821, - 661 

1831, - 652 

1841, . 708 

Poaching is not unfrequent in the parish, particularly during 

the winter season. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agricutture. — This parish contains 1920 square imperial acres, 
of which probably 240, being hill land, have never been in cultiva- 
tion. A great deal of wood has been planted within the last forty 
years, and which, having been regularly thinned, has now grown 
to a considerable size. 

Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land in the parish 
may be estimated at L.1, 1 Os. or L.2. The average rent of graz- 
ing an oz or cow may be estimated at L.d, lOs; a ewe or full- 
grown sheep at 58. The valued rent of the parish is L.1 579, 8s. 

Breedi of Livc'StocL — In this parish there are about 50 scores 
of sheep, chiefly of the black-faced kind, though there are also, on 
Turnhouse hill, a number of the Cheviot breed. A cross breed 
betwizt the Leicester and black-faced stock, produces much larger 
lambs, which are disposed of at better prices than they would 
otherwise bring ; but the black*faced ewes are generally preferred 
for keeping up the stock, as they are considered best adapted for 
the climate in winter. Ewe-milking is now entirely out of use 
here. Smearing is generally practised. The quantity of wool 
sold annually may be estimated at 145 stones, — which varies con- 
siderably in price, in different years. 

HiUbandnf. — All kinds of grain are raised in the parish. Wheat 
is now very generally sown ; and from the improvement that has 
lately been made in the mode of farming, it is often of very 6ne 
quality. Potatoes also are very generally cultivated, and turnips 
of different kinds for cattle in winter* 

Leases. — The duration of leases is generally for nineteen years. 
Some farms have been let for a shorter period ; and rents are in 
general well paid. The farm-houses have been much improved 



OLENCROSS. 319 

within the last thirty years, and the offices attached to them are, 
for the most part, very complete, thrashing-mills forming almost 
always a part of them. The fields are well enclosed with hedges* 
Dry-stone dikes are also pretty general, particularly in the higher 
parts of the parish. 

Improvements.'^ k great deal has been done in the way of im- 
provements. Draining has been in very general use; and many 
acres of land, which were formerly in a marshy state, are now com- 
pletely brought in, and producing the finest crops. The whins, 
. too, which covered many of the fields, have been rooted out, and 
the ground is now carrying grain of excellent quality. Lime is 
▼ery generally used for agricultural purposes, after having been 
first made into compost 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Market-'Toums. — The nearest market-tovB is Edinburgh, which 

is little more than six miles from the manse. Dalkeith, which is 

seven miles off, is also rMorted to by the farmers on the south side 

of the parish* 

Means of Communication. — The means of communication en- 
joyed by the parish are excellent. There is no post-office in the 
parish ; but there is one at Penicuik and another at Roslin, be- 
twixt two and three miles distant, and which are both easy of ac- 
cess. There are two turnpike roads running through the whole 
length of the parish, and the old Dumfries road by Auchindiony. 
The Dumfries mail-coach passes daily through the south side of 
the parish, as doth also the Peebles coach to and from Edinburgh ; 
and on the north, there is a stage coach to Dumfries every 
day by Linton and Biggar. The parish roads are kept in ex- 
cellent repair. The statute labour money is regularly levied, 
and the average annual expense of keeping them in oi*der for the 
last three years may be estimated at L.20. There are three stone 
bridges over Glencross water, which are in good condition ; and 
another over the Esk at Auchindinny, where this water forms the 
boundary of the parish. 

Ecckstastical State. — The church is most conveniently situated, 
being nearly in the centre of the parish. It stands on the top of 
a curiously insulated knoll, and is very beautifully surrounded with 
trees. It appears from dates upon it to have been built at two 
different periods: the main body of the church in 166.5; but, hav- 
ing been destroyed by fire in 1695, it was rebuilt in 1699, and en- 
larged by adding a projection to each side, which forms it into the 



820 EDINBUROHSHIRE. 

shape of a eross. It is in pretty good order, having been re- 
paired in 1811, and may contain about 180 Btttings, which are all 
free ; bnt it ie not now adequate to the wants of the present po- 
pulation.* 

The church had originally been a Popish place of worship, and 
was made use of after the Eteformation by the Presbyterians, be- 
fore Presbytery was established* When the church was repaired 
in 1811, there was found, in deepening the floor, about the middle 
of it, a large quadrangular-shaped stone, 19 inches square and 21 
inches deep, with a bead neatly cut round the edges and down the 
corners to the base; and a circular font in the centre, 13 inches 
in diameter and 8 inches deep, which no doubt had been used ifi 
Popish times. On the opposite corners of the stone, pieces of 
iron, broken off by the surface, remain fixed in with lead. In the 
cavity of the stone, a skull and several bones were found. 

The following is a list of ministers of this parish, as appears 
from the record of Presbytery and session records : 

Mr Andro Forrester, minister in 1589. Mr Robertson, or- 
dained 1636. Mr Robert Alison, ordained in 1643. Mr Cal- 
derwood, an Episcopal minister there in 1673. Mr George 
Purves, admitted by the Bishop and Moderator in 1674. Mr 
John Fraser, ordained in 1691, and removed, to the great re- 
gret of his parishioners, to Alness, in Ross-shire, in 1696, owing to 
■the difficulty of obtaining ministers in those days who understood 
Gaelic. Church vacant till 1699, when Mr John Wilson was or- 
dained, who died in 1757. Mr John Walker, ordained in Septem- 
ber 1758, and translated to Moffat in 1763. He was after- 
wards minister of Colinton, and Professor of Natural History in 
the University of Edinburgh. Mr James I'aylor, ordained in 
1768, and' died in 1787. Mr William Torrence, ordained July 
1788, and died in January 18*%. The present incumbent, or- 
dained assistant and successor to his father in October 1818. 

The manse was built in 1816, and is pleasantly situated on the 

* The following entry is fotuid in the record of disbursements : " Dec. 26, 1695. 
The qlk day the church was burnt, y' was of money cf^ was in an ambrie In ye ses* 
sioo house which was run with the fire, 01 16 06." 

It is stated in another place, that *' in the year sixteen hundred and ninetie>nine» 
the church was rebuilt again." What is rather remarkable, there was no interrupt 
tion of public worship during all that time, as appears from the insertions of ttw 
weekly collections^ except what took place in consequence of the vacancy that occur- 
red the f>]lowing year in October 1096, when Mr John Fraser was remored to Al- 
ness. After t^t, there was sermon only once a-moath, and sometimes only onoe 
in three months^ till October 1699, when Mr John Wilson was ordained minister of 
ibeparlsb. 

8 # 



GLBNCROSS. 321 

Biggar road, nearly a mile from the church. It has not, however, 
been substantially built, for within that time it has twice been ne- 
cessary to give it very considerable repairs. 

The glebe, together with the garden, contains about nine Scots 
acres, lying quite contiguous to the manse, with a fine exposure 
to the south. It is well enclosed with hedges, is of excellent qua- 
lity, and may be valued at L.d per acre. There is also a servitude 
for ten sheep on Castlelaw hill. 

The stipend is one of those which receive aid from Government 
It consists of 42 bolls of victual, partly oats, partly meal, and partly 
barley, which is paid by the highest county fiars ; with L.dd^ Is. 
4d. money stipend, including L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. 
The allowance received from Government is L.88, Is. 2d. 

There is no Dissenting place of worship in the parish ; but 
there are about 20 Dissenting fiimilies who attend a Meeting- 
House near Penicuik. Divine service at the Established Church 
is generally well attended. The number of conomunicants may 
be estimated at about ISO. 

There are no regularly constituted societies for religious pur- 
poses established here ; but collections are regularly made from 
time to time in behalf of the General Assembly's schemes. 

The average annual amount of collections for the last five years 
is Lfcll, 15s. 6d. 

Education, — The parochial school is not very conveniently si- 
tuated for the parish. The branches taught in it are, English, 
English grammar, writing, and arithmetic Sometimes Latin is 
taught. The schoolmaster has lately got an addition built to his 
house, which is now very commodious. He has the maximum sa- 
lary, with a good garden of half an acre English. He also receives 
L.d, 9s. as session-clerk. The average amount of school fees for 
seven years past may be estimated at L.20. 

Savingsf Bank, — There is a savings' bank in the parish of Pe- 
nicuik, where some have deposited the money they have been 
able to save out of their wages. 

Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons 
receiving parochial aid is 8, who receive from ds. to 6s. per month* 
There are several individuals besides, who in winter get coals, 
and occasionally a small supply of money. The annual amount 
of collections made at the church door, including proclamation 
and mortcloth dues, &c may be estimated at L.16, 10s. There 
is also an assessment of L.dO, regularly levied when required, at 

EDINBURGH. X 



322 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

an interval of eight or nine months. The annual amount of con« 
tributions for the support of the poor, on an average of five years, 
is L.42, 6s. 

It is to be regretted that there is not the same disposition now 
among the people who attend the parish church, to contribute to 
the collections in behalf of the poor. There are many who never 
contribute at all. 

At one time tlie people had an aversion to accept of anything 
from the poor's funds, as they considered it to be degrading to 
their character and family ; but this independent spirit, I am afraid, 
is dying away. 

Fairs. — There is an annual market for sheep held at House of 
Muir on the first and second Mondays of April, to which sheep 
are sent from various parts of Scotland, and purchasers attend 
from a great distance. At one time there was a weekly market 
there, frequented by the Edinburgh butchers ; but that has been 
discontinued, for more than forty years. The one-half of the cus- 
tom belongs to the town of Edinburgh, and the other half to the 
proprietor of the grounds, which is generally collected by his tenant* 

/iz7i4, d^c. — There are several licensed houses for retailing spi- 
rits in the parish, which certainly are injurious to the morals of 
the people. 

Fuel. — The fuel made use of in the parish is chiefly coal, which 
is obtained from a distance of from four to six miles, and costs at 
the pit from 7s. to 9s. per ton. A good deal of wood is also burnt 
from the thinnings of the plantations. 

Miscellaneous Observations. 

Few parishes have undergone a more complete change of ex- 
ternal appearance than this since the date of the last Statistical 
Account At that time there was very little wood in the parish, 
but since that period a proportion, equaling in extent one*fifth of 
the whole parish, has been tastefully planted with trees, to which 
great attention having been paid, they are in a thriving state, and 
have arrived at considerable maturity. At that time enclosures 
were rare, and in bad condition ; now, the fields are all surround- 
ed by proper fences, and kept in excellent order. For the greater 
part of these improvements the parish is chiefly indebted to the 
taste and public spirit of the late Robert Trotter, Esq. of Castle- 
law, who spared no expense in improving his extensive property ; 
and his example was speedily followed by the other proprietors. 

Mojf 184a 



PARISH OF LASSWADE. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALC 

THE REV. M. CAMPBELL MACKENZIE, MINISTER.* 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
As this parish is now divided into two parishes, qiu>ad sacra^ it 

is proposed to treat of them separately. We begin with Lass wade 
parish, quoad sacra, including in this account the temporal mat- 
ters, which are still common to both parishes. 

Name. — Chalmers says the name is derived from the Kirktown 
or village of Lasswade, which signifies a weU^watered pasture of 
common use. Laeswe in Anglo-Saxon signifies a common, and 
weyde in old English a meadow. As the name of the parish has 
been seen, in an old Dutch map, spelled Lesserwede, it may be 
considered to mean the opposite of Legerwood, — the smaller 
wood of Lasswade being contrasted with some larger wood not 
far distant. 

Extent. — Lasswade parish, before it was lately di?ided, consist- 
ed of three parishes and a provostry, viz. the parish of Lasswade 
proper, the parish of Melville, the parish of Pentland, and the 
provostry of Roslin. At this period, its extreme length was about 
8 miles, and its extreme breadth about 5 miles. Its length now 
is about 6 miles, and its breadth about 3 miles. It comprehends 
about 8 square miles. 

In the twelfth century, the church and lands of Lasswade were 
bestowed on the Bishop of St Andrews, and Lasswade thus be-^ 
came one of the Mensal churches. But whether Lasswade pro- 
per be meant, or Lasswade consisting of a number of parishes, 
cannot now be ascertained. It is probable that Lasswade proper 
is intended; for the junction and the consequent suppression of 
parishes is a device of Protestant and not of Popish times. There 
can be no doubt that the parish of Melville, including the baronies 

* This aoooutit was drawn up by the Rev. Dayid Brown, Roilin, with assistance 
of tho minister of the parisb. 



324 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

of Melville and Lugton^ ceased to form a separate parish only in 
163a 

In the reign of James III., the church of Lasswade was, by the 
Pope's authority, detached from St Salvator's Church, St An- 
drews, and annexed to the Collegiate Church of Restalrig. 

Boundaries. — The parish is bounded on the west, by Colinton ; 
on the north, by Colinton and Liberton ; on the east, by Dalkeith, 
Newbattle, and Cockpen; and on the south, by Roslin and Glen- 
cross. It is extremely irregular in its figure. 

Mountains. — The parish extends to the very top of the east 
range of the Pentland hills. But the narrow strip into which it 
is reduced, does not include any of the more remarkable elevations. 
The northern boundary of this strip runs along the very summit 
of the hills named Kirk Yetton and Allermuir. The higher of 
these, viz. Allermuir, is 1606 feet above the level of the sea. 

Climate. — The climate varies considerably, which will not ap- 
pear to be remarkable, when it is stated, that the elevation ranges 
between 270 and 1600 feet, within the distance of six miles. 
Around, and in the immediate neighbourhood of the beautiful 
village of Lasswade, which is situated near the lowest point in the 
scale of elevation, the climate is mild, and the air soft and agree- 
able. Hence vegetation is here both early and luxuriant, showing 
a striking contrast with the more elevated districts of this and the 
surrounding parishes. And the same circumstance has rendered 
the village of Lasswade a place of considerable resort to the inha- 
bitants of Edinburgh and Leith, numbers of whom annually spend 
the summer months in this delightful locality. 

River. — The river North Esk runs through the parish nearly 
three miles, and skirts it upwards of another mile. Few streams 
are more remarkable than this, for lovely and picturesque scenery. 
The walk from Gorton to Springfield leads through a locality of 
rich and varied beauty. 

Mineralogy. — The general feature of the geological structure 
of the parish is the same as that of the neighbouring parish of 
Roslip. In both parishes, red sandstone rests on coal, and there 
is an abundant supply of both minerals. The coal mines are 
wrought chiefly in the vicinity of Loanhead, and have been long 
in operation. 

II. — Civil History. 

Eminent CKarac^<.-r- Several distinguished individuals have 
been connected with the parish, viz. William Drummond of Haw- 



LASSWADE. 325 

thornden, the celebrated poet ; John Clerk, Esq. of Eldin ; and 
the late Lord Melville. The following is an abridged account of 
each. 

Drtanmond the Poet — This parish gave birth to William Drum- 
mond of Hawthornden, who occupies a distinguished place among 
the earlier bards of Scotland, and who, both as a poet and a his- 
torian, will bear a comparison with the most celebrated names of 
the age in which he lived. 

If ancestry can add anything to the glory of a genius, which 
itself would have ennobled obscurity, it may be mentioned that 
Drummond, in addition to his other distinctions, could boast of a 
long line of illustrious progenitors. His family came originally 
from Hungary in the reign of Malcom Canmore. One of his an- 
cestors was secretary to ** the Bruce," and another, the beautiful, 
talented, and accomplished Annabella Drummond, was Queen of 
Robert HL of Scotland, and mother of James I., who may be re- 
garded as discovering his consanguinity, by possessing a spirit, in 
many respects, congenial with that of our poet. 

William Drummond was the son of Sir John Drummond of 
Hawthornden, Gentleman Usher to King James VI., and of Su- 
sannah Fowler, daughter of Sir W. Fowler, Secretary to the 
Queen, and* was born on the Idth of December 1585. To the 
advantage of iT highly finished classical education, he added a fa- 
miliar acquaintance with many of the sciences, and also with many 
of the modern languages, particularly French, Spanish, and Ita- 
lian, which he spoke with the correctness and ease of a native. 
Inheriting from his father a comfortable independence, he could 
afford to relinquish the legal profession, for which he was origin- 
ally destined, and for which he had many superior qualifications, 
and yield himself up exclusively to his favourite pursuit. Em- 
bowered in the woody solitudes of his native Hawthornden, whose 
romantic scenery was well fitted to call forth his poetic ardour, he 
had everything to awaken, and nothing to repress his muse ; and 
there he produced those exquisite poems which have rendered his 
name immortal. 

In this retreat he remained during the greater part of his life ; 
but he occasionally visited London, and spent several years on 
the continent of Europe. Though fond of retirement, he enjoyed 
the society of his friends ; and the fame of his authorship, as well 
as the wit of his conversation, for which he was remarkable, drew 
around him the principal literary characters of his own country, 



326 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

and excited no small interest in the neighbouring kingdonEU The 
celebrated Ben Jonson, at the age of forty-five, travelled on foot 
all the way from London, for the express purpose of paying him 
a visit, and spent several weeks at Hawthornden in the winter of 
1618-19. 

He married Elizabeth Logan, grand<daughter of Sir Robert 
Logan of Restalrig, and by her had several children. He died 
on the 4th December 1649, deeply regretted, not only fer the 
superiority of his more conspicuous literary endowments, but also 
for the piety and worth of his private character. He was interred 
in the family aisle in the old Church of Lasswade. 

His works display much genius and learning, and a classic 
taste and purity of composition, but little known at the time when 
he wrote. His sonnets, on which his fame as a poet principally 
rests, are remarkable for the sweetness and smoothness of the 
versification, and have gained for him the title of the Petrarch of 
Scotland. In some respects, he is allowed to surpass the Italian. 

The family is now represented by Sir Francis Walker Drum* 
mond, Bart, of Hawthornden, who married Margaret Drummond, 
only daughter and heiress of Sir John F. Drummond, Bart, (in 
whose person the family title, after remaining dormant above a 
century, was revived,) and grand-niece of Bishop Abernethy, the 
representative of the Abernethies of Salton. 

Mr Clerk of Eldin. — John Clerk of Eldin was the sixth son of 
Sir John Clerk of Pennicuik, Bart., and Janet Inglis, daughter 
of Sir John Inglis of Cramoud. He appears to have received, at 
an early period of his life, the estate of Eldin from his father. 
He married Susanna Adam, sister of the celebrated architects, 
and by her he had several children^ 

Near the commencement of the year 1782, Mr Clerk printed 
and distributed among his friends a few copies of the first part of 
his valuable work, entitled " an Essay on Naval Tactics, Sys- 
tematical and Historical, with Explanatory Plates, in Four Parts." 
It was reprinted and published in 1790; the second, third, and 
fourth parts were added in 1797. The work was republished en- 
tire in 1804, with a preface, explaining the origin of the author's 
discoveries in naval tactics. 

Every unprejudiced person must admit that Mr Clerk has intro- 
duced an immense improvement into naval tactics. He was the 
first to discover the line of tactics generally followed by our ene- 
mies, which was the means of preventing our most celebrated na- 



LASSWADE. 827 

val commanders froai achieving tictories, which, there is every 
reason to believe, they would have done, bad the enemy been as 
eager to engage as the British were. In place of this, while the 
enemy's fleet was carrying on a kind of running fight, and our fleet 
was endeavouring to bring on a general engagement, a decisive re- 
sult was seldom or never obtained. During the time that this de-» 
snltory warfare was going on, and many persons were surprized 
that the meeting of hostile fleets generally led to no other conse- 
quence than a certain amount of firing and of skilful manoeuvring, 
it occurred to John Clerk, who had no practical knowledge what- 
ever of naval afiairs, that a remedy might be applied. His reme* 
dy was, to break the line of the enemy, and to direct the whole 
force on one or two divisions of the fleet, whereby either a general 
engagement was necessarily brought on, or the ships attacked were 
sacrificed by the flight of the rest. Ever since this idea has been 
acted on, the most splendid and decisive victories have been ob- 
tained. We are aware that attempts have been made by the re- 
presentatives of some of our greatest naval commanders, to show 
that John Clerk was not the discoverer of the new and successful 
mode of carrying on naval warfare. But we believe that, were the 
heroes themselves still alive, they would willingly concede to Mr 
Clerk the honour of the discovery which has been made in naval 
tactics ; while they satisfied themselves with reaping the laurels of 
the successful execution. 

Mr Clerk died on the 10th of May 1S12, and as yet no monu- 
ment has been erected to his memory in testimony of a nation's 
gratitude. He was the father of the late John Clerk, Esq. Advo- 
cate, who was afterwards raised to the Bench, and took the desig- 
nation of Lord Eldin. 

The late Lord Melville. — The family of Oundas is one of the 
most ancient in Scotland. The Dundases of Amiston and Mel- 
ville are descended from King Robert I. of Scotland by the 
youngest daughter of that monarch, and are connected with the 
royal family of Great Britain by the mother of the first Lord Pre- 
sident Dundas, who was lineally descended froih the Princess Mary, 
eldest daughter of King James H. Of this ancient family, five 
members made a most distinguished appearance on the Bench, and 
four most ably filled the ofiice of Lord Advocate. 

Henry Dundas, the late Lord Melville, was the fourth son 
of Robert Dundas of Arniston, by his second wife, Ann^ daugh-^ 
ter of Sir William Gordon of Invergorden, Bart. He was born 



328 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

28th April 1 742, received the rudiments of his education at the 
school of Dalkeith, aud then proceeded to the university of Tldin- 
burgh, where he manifested in a high degree the distinguished ta« 
lents of his family. 

Mr Dundas was admitted a member of the Faculty of Advocates 
on the 1st March 1763; appointed Solicitor- General in 1766; 
chosen M. P. for his native county of Edinburgh in 1774; re- 
chosen in 1780 ; elected for Newton in Hampshire, in 1782; hav- 
ing accepted the office of Treasurer of the Navy, he was again 
chosen for the county of Edinburgh ; re-chosen in 1784; and elect- 
ed for the city of Edinburgh in 1790, 1796, and 1802. He was 
unanimously called to be Dean of the Faculty of Advocates in 
1775, and was annually elected till 1785, when he relinquished 
his practice at the Bar. He was appointed Lord Advocate in 1775, 
Joint* Keeper of the Signet in 1777, and Sole- Keeper in 1779. 

In Parliament, Mr Dundas was considered an argumentative 
and powerful speaker. In him were united, to a greater extent 
than in any other public man of his day, common sense, political 
sagacity, knowledge of life and affairs, firmness and talents for busi- 
ness* From congeniality of disposition, abilities, and opinions, Mr 
Dundas attached himself to Mr Pitt, and this attachment continued 
unchangeable, on the part of both these illustrious men, amid all 
the vicissitudes of their long and arduous and brilliant career. 

He was appointed President of the Board of Control in 1784, 
which he held till May 1801. He is justly reckoned the second 
founder of the Honourable East India Company. By the en- 
lightened measures which he adopted, and the vigour with which 
he executed them, prosperity was restored to our Eastern empire. 
From 1784 to 1793 he managed that most difficult, extensive, and 
important department gratuitously. 

In 1791, he was appointed Principal Secretary of State for the 
Home Department; and, in 1794, Principal Secretary of State 
for the War Department, which latter office he held till March 
1801. From 1791 to 1801, he voluntarily relinquished the sa- 
lary of his office as Secretary of State, and thus generously saved 
to the public to the amount, as was proved upon oath, of L.34,7d0. 

In reference to the ability with which he dischai^ed the duties 
of his high and important offices. Lord Castlereagh, in a debate 
in the House of Commons, stated, that *^ it was well known that 
Lord Melville enjoyed a faculty for the performance of public 

3 



LASSWADE. 329 

business, greater, perhaps, than that possessed by any other indi- 
yidual in the world." 

Mr Dundas resigned his place of Treasurer of the Navy in May 
1800, of Principal Secretary of State in March 1801, and of Pre- 
sident of the Board of Control in May following, going out of of 
fice with Mr Pitf. In testimony of the approbation of his sove- 
reign, he was constituted Keeper of the Privy Seal in Scotland in 
1800 ; and, in further testimony of the royal approbation, he was 
created a Peer of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ire- 
land. In 1804, he returned into power with Mr Pitt, and was 
appointed First Lord of the Admiralty. These illustrious col- 
leagues then prepared for the vigorous prosecution of the war, 
which has since happily accomplished the object for which it was 
carried on,— the liberation of Europe. 

While Lord Melville was occupied in placing the naval affairs 
of the country on the footing which led to the splendid and deci- 
sive victory of Trafalgar, an unexpected occurrence deprived the 
nation of his services. It appeared that his Lordship, while trea- 
surer, had given a verbal permission to the paymaster of the navy 
to draw, from the Bank of England, money for the service of the 
navy, after the assignments and heads of service had been made 
by the proper boards, in terms of the statute, and* to lodge the 
same in the hands of Messrs Coutts & Co., the bankers of the 
paymaster, till it was demanded. The commissioners appointed 
to investigate this matter gave in a report concluding thus, ^* that' 
the withdrawing of the public money from the Bank of England, 
in the manner and for the purpose before related, was, in our judg- 
ment, a disobedience to the law.^ 

The trial of Lord Melville took place in Westminster Hall, oc- 
cupied sixteen days, and terminated on the 12th of June. His 
Lordship, in accordance with the solemn legal opinion of the 
judges, to whom the points of law were submitted, was trium- 
phantly acquitted. 

On the change of administration his Lordship was sworn a privy 
councillor 8th April 1807, without any 'ministerial office, and had 
the dignity of an earldom offered for his acceptance ; but this 
spontaneous mark of the regard in which he was held by his royal 
master, was respectftiUy declined. Lord Melville was also the first 
named in the commission for inquiring into the administration of 
justice in Scotland. 

The early part of the year 1811 Lord Melville spent in his na- 



330 RDINBrUROUStilRB. 

five country^ He came from Daneira to Edinburgh to attend the 
funeral of President Blair on the 28th of May. On the evening 
of the preceding day, he employed himself in making arrange- 
ments relative to the President's family, and had begun a letter 
to Mr Perceval recommending them to his attention, but which 
be left unfinished. His Lordship was in the habit of rising at 
seven o'clock, and his servant, being surprised when he did not 
appear at the usual hour, entered his room at eight in the morn- 
ing : receiving no answer to his call, he opened the curtains, and 
discovered Lord Melville lying lifeless^ his head resting on one 
arm, and the other extended on the bed-clothes. His Lordship 
had died of disease of the heart, of some years duration, as ap- 
peared on a past mortem examination. 

Thus terminated, in the seventieth year of his age, the life of 
this extraordinary man. He possessed, in a distinguished degree, 
the qualities of a statesman. In the general afiairs of govern- 
ment, his information was accurate and extensive, his advice con- 
siderate, and his sagacity profound ; no dilemma could perplex 
him, no conjuncture alarm him, no opposition could abate his ar- 
dour, and no disaster could shake his firmness. Even the. mas* 
ter-mind of Pitt, with delight, acknowledged the superiority of his 
unrivalled powers. 

There have been erected a statue by Chantrey in the Parlia- 
ment House, and a pillar, similar to Trajan's at Rome, in St An- 
drew's Square, Edinburgh, to commemorate his Lordship's talents 
and services. The subscription for the latter was raised, after hid 
death, chiefly among naval officers, whose profession he had so 
eminently benefited. 

Chief Land-owners. — Mrs Gibsone of Pentland; Lord Mel- 
ville ; Sir Francis Walker Drummond, Bart of Hawthornden ; 
Sir George Clerk, Bart of Pennicuik ; G. C Arbuthnot^ Esq. 
of Mavisbank ; Admiral Sir P. C. H. Durham of Polton ; Alex- 
ander Hay, Esq. of Hardengreen. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers are, in general, 
well kept, and commence soon after the Reformation. 

Antiquities. — At Hawthornden there remains a fragment of an 
old fortalice or castle of unknown antiquity. There is still an 
arch over the only one of the rooms now in existence, and on it 
there is a sycamore or plane tree of considerable dimensions, — 
being probably a seedling of the tree which we are now to mention. 
To the east of this ruin is the famous sycamore tree which is called 



LASSWADE. ^^ 

the Four Sisters^ and is about 24 feet in circumference at the 
base. It was under this tree that Drummond the poet was sitting 
when his friend Ben Jonson arrived from London, and hence it is 
also called Ben Jonson's Tree. Observing his friend approach* 
ing Drummond exclaimed — 

** Welcome, welcome. Royal Ben ;** 

To which Jonson replied with his usual readiness-^ 

<• Thank ye, thank ye, Hawthornden.** 

Adjoining the ruin is a comparatively modern house. Over the 
door of this house^ in marble, are the armorial bearings of the late 
Right Reverend Dr William Abernethy Drummond, Bishop of 
Edinburgh ; and near it is the following inscription : — Divino mumere 
Gulielmus Drummondus Johannis Equitis aurati 61iu8 ut honesto 
otio quiesceret sibi et successoribns instauravit. Anno 1638. In the 
lobby of the house there is a table with a marble slab, having on 
ii the date 1396, and the initials of King Robert III., and of his 
Queen Annabella Drummond. On this table is a large two« 
handed and two-edged sword, said to have belonged to King Ro- 
bert the Bruce. There is also in the lobby a clock, said to have 
belonged to the family since the time of Robert the Bruce. In 
an upper room are a pair of antique shoes, and a silk dress, which 
belonged to Annabella Drummond, Queen of Robert III.; also 
a dress worn by Prince Charles Stuart during his Scottish cam- 
paign of 1745. 

Below this house are two tiers of caves, the lower tier not being 
now accessible. Various conjectures have been made regarding the 
origin and use of these caves. The most probable opinion is, that 
they were made during the destructive wars between the English 
and the Scotch in the thirteenth century. In these caves. Sir 
Alexander Ramsay, who performed many memorable exploits dur- 
ing the contest between Bruce and Baliol, used to conceal himself, 
and so great was his fame as a warrior, that the most aspiring can- 
didates for military renown in those days did not consider their 
education complete till they had served some time under him. The 
most ancient entrance to these caves was by a door in the centre of 
the perpendicular rock that overlooks the river, and which was ac- 
cessible only by a flight of steps and a narrow pathway now de- 
stroyed. The present entrance is by a door on the south side, by 
which visitors descend a few steps, and pass along a narrow pas- 
sage called the King's Gallery, 75 feet long and 6 feet broad. 
The first cave on the left, to which there is a descent of two steps, 



832 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

is denominated the King's Bed-Chamber. Farther on, is a com- 
munication with a well, to which we shall afterwards advert. Pro- 
ceeding a little way, and ascending a few steps on the left, is an 
apartment with 175 square apertures, cut in the rock, called the 
King's Guard Room. On the opposite side of the passage is 
another apartment, known by the name of the Kin^s Dining 
Room. In the court formed by the old tower and the modem 
house is a well cut in the solid rock, which is said to have served 
the double purpose of being an entrance to the caves, with which 
it has a communication, and of supplying the inhabitants of the 
caves with water, when they were shut oui; from all intercourse with 
the world above. 

At the west end of the modern house is a seat hewn out of the 
solid rock, from which, in a summer day, may be obtained one of 
the most charming views which the eye of man can behold. To 
this end of the house is affixed the following remarkable inscrip- 
tion : ^^ To the memory of Sir Lawrence Ahernethy of Hawthorn- 
den, second son to Sir William Abernetby of Salton, a brave and 
gallant soldier, who, at the head of a party in the year 1388, con- 
quered Lord Dowglas five times in one day, yet was taken prisoner 
before sunset" — (Ford. Lib. xiii. cap. 44.) 

There is also an inscription to the memory of Drummond the 
poet, and a dedication of the stone-seat by Bishop Drummond. 
But, as the poetry is from Young, it is unnecessary to quote it. 

To the north of the house is a room cut out of the rock, 16 feet 
by 12, and about 6 feet high. The room seems to be of conside- 
rable antiquity, and there are four recesses in the sides of it 

Still farther to the north is a pretty large recess cut in the free- 
stone rock, called the Cypress Grotto. This was a favourite re- 
treat of the poet, and he is said to have composed some of his 
poems in it 

WaUac^9 Cave. — On the same side of the river North Esk, 
and about half a mile farther up the river than Hawthomden, is 
Wallace's Cave. This cave is in the form of a cross, and is ca- 
pable of holding sixty or seventy men. Like the caves, which we 
have already mentioned, it is evidently artificial. 

Wallaces Cast or Camp* — This military station is situated on the 
north side of Bilston Burn, and about a mite from its* confluence 
with the river North Esk. It is in the form of a half-moon, and 
defended by a broad and deep ditch. The semicircle measures 
84 yards, and the average dimensions of the ditch are the follow- 



LASSWADE. S33 

ing: width at top, 10 yards; width at bottom, 5 yards; depth, 
8 yards. The diameter runs parallel with the bum, and rests on 
the top of the high and steep bank, while the arc extends upwards 
from the bank. 

The Cast, — At Springfield, stretching in a south-east direction 
from a ford in the river North Esk, is a deep and narrow road, 
named Tlie Castj probably a contraction for Via ad cattra* This 
road, in several places, is nearly six feet below the surface of the 
adjoining fields ; and it is so confined in breadth, that it can admit 
only of a single cart at a time. It is of unknown antiquity, and 
probably was* one of the old Roman roads by which intercourse 
was kept up between two camps. Should this conjecture be cor- 
rect, this road must have been in existence for at least fifteen or 
sixteen hundred years. There is not more of it now remaining 
than about half a mile. 

Military Station. — Near Mavisbank House, which is on the op- 
posite side of the river North Esk from Springfield, is a mound of 
earth, of considerable elevation* It is circular in its form, and sur- 
rounded with ramparts, now cut into terraces. Here, several ar- 
ticles made of brass, and evidently belonging to a remote period, 
have been found. Among these are weapons, bridle-bits, chirur- 
gical instruments, sHliy JUfula, &c They are still to be seen at 
Penicuik House, the seat of the former proprietor. On a neigh- 
bouring farm is a tumulus, where several urns, filled with burnt 
bones, have been dug up. 

Modem Buildings. — The most remarkable is Melville Castle, 
the elegant seat of Lord Melville. It was built more than half a 
century ago on the site of the old house of that name, which, tra- 
dition says, belonged to David Rizzio, and was occasionally inha- 
bited by Queen Mary. 

Mavisbank House is also an elegant building, and is situated in 
one of the most picturesque localities in Scotland. 

Springfield House, the residence of the Honourable Mrs Leslie 
Gumming, is placed in a situation which is unrivalled in beauty. 

Milb. — There are two corn-mills in the parish, both below the 
village of Lasswade, on the Esk. 

1 1 1. — Population. 
In the parish of Lasswade, quoad civilia, the number of the po- 
pulation at different periods was as follows :-— 

In 1755» 2190 

1791, dOOO 

1881, 4252 

1841, 5022 



334 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

This iocreJEise of the population has been chiefly owing to the in« 
crease of manufactures. 

IV. — Industry. 

Manufactures. — The two principal articles maQufiEu^iitred are 
paper and carpets. We shall notice them separately. 

Paper. — There are thfee paper-mills in the parish. In all of 
these, machines are at work day and night, and the quantity of 
paper made is immense. The paper which is made is intended 
either for writing or for printing on. The number of hands em- 
ployed, including both sexes and all ages, amounts to several hun- 
dreds. In order to show the progressive increase of the paper 
trade, we shall quote part of a letter received from a respectable 
proprietor.of one of the mills. ^' At present,'^ he says, ^^ we em- 
ploy about the work above 1 50 men, women, boys, and girls, pay- 
ing them above L.2600 a year of wages; but, including other 
tradesmen occasionally employed, our wages' bill will not be under 
L.dOOO a year. Our consumpt of coals is upwards of 2000 tons 
yearly. Our excise duty, which, in 1813, was L.800 a year, has 
risen to about L.5500 ; and, as the duty is now only one-half what it 
was then, being now l^d. per pound, instead of dd., our duties at 
the old rate would be L. 11,000 a year. I have no doubt our 
neighbours have increased in the same proportion." 

Carpets. — The work at St Anne's, to which our attention is now 
to be directed, is one of the most ingenious in the country. In 
general it is a manufactory of the finer sorts of carpets, and da- 
masks for furniture, and in which about 100 people are employed. 
It has been established at Lasswade only since 1634; but in that 
short time, it has become known pretty generally through the 
country, from the peculiarity of some of the fabrics which are 
made. Besides carpets on the principle of the Tournay and Ax- 
minster kind, made to fit all sizes and shapes of rooms without 
seam, and which are made at only a few other places in this coun- 
try, Richard Whytock & Co., the proprietors, manufacture a new 
sort of Brussels carpet, of great beauty, which resembles tapestry 
in its general effect, and which they call Tapestry Brussels ; also 
a fabric in velvet pile, quite novel in its appearance. These two 
fabrics are produced by a new process of their own invention, which 
is applicable also to other fabrics, to which they purpose to apply it 
As the principle is patented, it is not kept secret It consists of a 
combination of the two hitherto rival methods of producing figures 
on cloth, namely, the arts of weaving and printing ; and, at the 

4 



LASSWADE. 335 

same time, is a simplification of both processes to a wonderful de- 
gree. In regard to the weaving, this is reduced to the simplest 
process possible, as all the intricate machinery of the Brussels and 
Wilton looms, with their expensive harness, is superseded. And, 
as to the printing, the same implements are made to produce all 
patterns, no matter how dissimilar. 

The productions of the manufactory are already in much re* 
quest in London, and have found their way to various parts of the 
world. 

Mr Henderson is the resident partner at the manufactory, and, 
under his management, aided by a very talented designer of pat-* 
terns, the improvement is steadily progressive ; so that it is not 
easy to say to what perfection this manufacture may be advanced, 
the more so as there is scarcely any limit to the number of colours 
or shades that may be introduced, with scarcely any additional 
expense. 

Mr Babbage, in his Economy of Manufactures, enumerates a 
variety of methods of multiplying figures ; but he was not aware 
of this one, which differs very widely from all those he describes 
in his very useful publication. 

The manufactory is visited by great numbers of persons, who 
are most courteously received by the intelligent and enterprising 
gentlemen connected with the establishment. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Market-Towns. — There are no market-towns in the parish. 
Dalkeith and Edinburgh are the two market-towns resorted to ; 
the former being distant two miles, and the latter six miles. 

ViUaget. — The principal villages in the parish are, Lasswade, 
Loaahead, and Pentland. 

Means of Communieation. — There are two post-offices in the 
parish, each having two arrivals and two departures in one day. 
The turnpike roads extend in length to about twelve miles. A 
coach runs several times each lawful day between Lasswade and 
Edinburgh, by Loanhead. The Dumfries MaiUCoach, and a 
stage-coach from the Wellington Inn, near Pennicuik, pass 
through a small part of the parish, on their way to tUid from Edin- 
burgh. 

Eccksiastical State* — The church is situated about a mile and 
a-half from the east end of the parish, and about four and a-half 
miles from the west end. It was built in 1793, and is remarkable 
for the beauty of its situation. It is one of the most elegant and 



336 EDINBUBOHSHIRE. 

commodious country churches in Scotland, and is seated for up- 
wards of 1000 persons. During the last few years, it has under- 
gone several extensive repairs and alterations, which reflect the 
highest credit on the liberality, taste, and judgment of the heri- 
tors of the parish. 

The manse was built in 1789, and cost Lf.500. It stands on 
an eminence near the church, and, in its immediate neighbour- 
hood, is the ruin of the old church ; the three objects forming a 
group remarkable for its beauty. The glebe extends to 8 acres, 
and is worth about L.40 per annum. The stipend amounts to 
about L.200 per annum. In the Taxatio it is rated at 90 marks, 
which exhibit a higher rate than any church in Mid- Lothian, ex- 
cept St Cuthberts. 

The church-yard has been vastly improved within the last few 
years. In the centre of it stands the ruin of the old church, 
which has been converted into family vaults. 

There are two Dissenting chapels in the parish, the one be- ' 
longing to the Reformed Presbyterian Church, and the other to 
the United Secession Church. Their ministers are paid by vo- 
luntary contribution. 

About two-thirds of the inhabitants belong to the Established 
Church, and the remaining one-third to the Dissenters. Divine 
service is well attended at the parish church. The number of 
communicants at the parish church is about 700. Annual collec- 
tions are made at the church door for each of the five schemes of 
the General Assembly. Last year they amounted collectively to 
the sum of L.70, lOs. The ordinary collections, last year, 
amounted to L.79, 9s. Sd. 

Education. — There are eight schools in the parish. They are 
all in an efficient state. 

The ordinary branches of education are taught in all the schools. 
An excellent education may be received at the parochial school, 
where, besides the usual branches, are taught Latin, Greek, 
French, and mathematics. 

The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and ac- 
commodation for several boarders. The school is numerously at- 
tended, and the fees are very considerable in am(5unt. The 
schoolmaster at Pentland has a salary of L.20 per annum, a free 
school-house, and a free dwelling-house. The school-house is a 
spacious and elegant building, erected wholly at the expense of 
Mrs Gibsone of Pentland. This lady also gives the salary and 



ROSLIN* dS7 

the dwelIin^*hotise« The schoolmaster at Hawthnrnden has a 
salary of L.5 per annum and a free school house* 

Libraries. — 'There is an excelleut subscription library at Loan- 
head, and there^ is- another at Lasswade* 

Friendly Societies. — There are various societies of this descrip* 
tion in the parish, which are of great public benefit. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 
Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers on the 

roll is 75. Besides these, there is a considerable number of per- 
sons who receive occasional assistance. 

The contributions for the relief of the poor are made from the 
foUawing sources, viz. collections at the church door ; the interest 
of a capital stock of L.333, 6s. 8d. ; and an assessment. 

Last year, the sum given to the poor amounted to L.56d, 6s. Id. 

Rental of the Parish. — The following are the items of the pa- 
rish rental : 

Rental of land, . . L.12,974 2 3 

Do. houseis . 4,349 18 9 

Feu-duties» . . 606 8 



L.17,9d0 9 

June 1848. 

PARISH OF ROSLIN. 

PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEKDDALB. 

THE REV. DAVID BROWN, MINISTER. 



I. — Topography and Natural History. 
^afiif.-^THE name Roslin, which is now in common use, or 
Rosslyn, as it is spelled in the title of the Earl of Rosslyn, or Ros- 
ling, as it is generally found in the records of the Presbytery of 
Dalkeith, seems to be compounded of two Celtic words, ross and 
lynHf signifying promontory and waterfall ; because Roslin Castle, 
which was the original residence of the noble family to whom it 
still belongs, is situated near to a place where the river North Esk 
runs over a very rugged and sloping channel, emphatically called 
to this day ^' The Lynn*" It is probable that the name Roslin, 
pr Rosslyn, or Rosling, never was applied to any large extent of 

EDINBURGH. Y 



33d EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

ground around the castle, because the names of the neighbouring 
baronies seem to be of as great antiquity. At present it is em- 
ployed to designate the castle and the chapel, with the small land- 
ed property connected with them ; and also the village of Roslin, 
which is mostly situated on a different estate. Besides, the name 
Roslin has been lately given to a new parish, which is wholly a 
disjunction quoad sacra from Lasswade. This disjunction was 
made by the Presbytery of Dalkeith, in 1835, in consequence of 
an Act of the General Assembly, in 1834, called the Chapel Act ; 
and it is this parish of which it is proposed now to give an account* 

Extent, — The extreme length of the parish is 5^ miles, and its 
extreme breadth is 3| miles. It contains about 10 square miles, 
and is somewhat irregular in its shape. 

Boundaries. — It is bounded on the north by Lasswade parish ; 
on the east by Cockpen and Carrington parishes; and on the 
south and west by Pennicuik and Glencross parishes. 

Topographical Appearances. — While the parish rises gradually 
from north to south, partly up the course of the river North Esk, 
it is, at the same time, most beautifully and romantically diversi- 
fied in its character. The river North Esk, which traverses the 
parish little more than a mile, but which forms its boundary for 
about five miles, is one of the most remarkable streams in Scot- 
land for magnificent scenery, from its commencement in the Pent- 
land Hills, to its termination in the Frith of Forth, at Mussel- 
burgh. It is chiefly, however, in that part of the Vale of the Esk 
which has been denominated ^^ Roslin's rocky glen," where there 
is the principal concentration of beauty and grandeur. 

Temperatiire.--^The parish, varying in elevation from 300 to 
upwards of 800 feet above the level of the sea, possesses an at- 
mosphere considerably lower in temperature than that of the me- 
tropolis, from which it is distant about seven miles. 

The climate has been often remarked to be uncommonly salu- 
brious in its nature. It is probable that there are few localities 
on the face of the earth, where the average rate of mortality is 
lower than it is in the village and vicinity of Roslin. 

Springs^ — Along the precipitous banks of the Esk, there are 
multitudes of springs of the purest water. One of these, in the 
neighbourhood of the castle, is named St Matthew's Well, from 
vrhiefa the greater number of the inhabitants of Roslin village are 
supplied with water. The extreme purity of the water of this well 

k owing to its filtering through a very deep stratum of gravel ; 

3 



ROSLIN. 330 

and this may be regarded as one cause of the salubrity of the sur* 
rounding district 

Coal'tnines. — In one district of the parish, which is named 
Rosewell, are situated several coaUmines, from which an abundant 
f upply of fuel is obtained by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood ; 
but the price is high on account of the vicinity of the metropolis. 
There are 51 families, consisting of 269 individuals, wholly de- 
pendent on these coal-works for their support. 

Lately, two eminent engineers gave in a report to George 
Mercer, Esq. of Dryden, which states that, on his property, there 
are not less than 30,000,000 of tons of coal. The coal in this 
property was wrought to a considerable extent in former times ^ 
and arrangements are now being made for working it to a great 
extent. 

II. — Civil History. 
Mantucript Account. — In -the Advocates' Library there is a 

beautiful manuscript, in three volumes folio, consisting of historical 

records, dated in 1700, and written by Father Richard Augustine 

Hay, Prior of St Piermont in France, and a cadet of the family 

of Rosslyn. There is, inter alia^ in this work, ^^ a Genealogie of 

the Saint Claires of Rosslyn," including *^ the Chartellary of 

Rosslyn." In 1885, an accurate copy of this Genealogie and 

Chartellary was printed in quarto from the original manuscript. 

But it is scarce, as only 12 copies large paper, and 108 copies 

small paper, were published : the price of each of the large copies 

being L.2, 12s. 6d., and that of the small being 18s. 

Published Accounts. — In the year 1827 was published a ^^ His- 
torical and Descriptive Account of Rosslyn Chapel and Castle, 
with eight engravings." There has also been published, without 
a date, but some years later than the preceding work, ^^ M^Dow- 
all's New Guide to Roslin, being a Historical and Descriptive 
Account of the Chapel and Castle of Roslin and Hawthornden, 
with engravings on steel." Both of these publications are small ; 
and some use of them, as well as of the manuscript mentioned 
above, will be made in this Statistical Account. 

Ancient Battle.— On the 24th of February 1302, a little way 
to the north of Roslin village, there was fought a very famous 
battle, or rather succession of battles, between the Scotch and 
the English armies, when the Scotch forces, consisting of 8000 
men, under the command of Sir Simon Frazer and John Comyn, 
defeated the forces of the English, consisting of 30,000 men, and 



340 bdinburghshibf:. 

commanded by John de Segrave, who had previously divided his 
troops into three equal divisions, and brought th0m up in succes- 
sion to the conflict** 

Land'Oioners* — The following are the chief land-owners of the 
parish, viz. Robert Balfour Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq. of Whitehill ; 
Sir George Clerk, Bart, of Pennicuik ; Sir Norman Macdonald 
Liockhart, Bart, of Lee and Carnwatb ; George Mercer, Esq. of 
Dryden ; Robert Brown, Esq. of Firth ; John Inglis, Esq. of 
Auchindinny; Sir Francis Walker Drummond, Bart, of Haw- 
thornden ; the Earl of Rosslyn ; the Earl of Rosebery ; Archibald 
Haig, Esq. of Seafield. 

Antiquities. — The principal antiquities are, Roslin Chapel and 
Roslin Castle; the former being in a state of excellent pre- 
servation, while the latter has long been in a most ruinous con- 
dition. 

Roslin Chapel, — The founder of the illustrious family, to which 
the chapel owes its erection, was one of the many Anglo-Norman 
barons, whom the policy of King Malcolm Canmore allured from 
England, after the Conquest, to settle in Scotland, where exten- 
sive grants of land were bestowed on them. His name was Wil- 
liam de Santo Claro, the second son of Waldernus Compte de 
St Claro^ who came to England with William the Conqueror in 
the year 1066. His mother was Margaret, daughter to Richard 
Duke of Normandy, and he was called, for his fair deportment, 
^^ the Seemly St Clair." This William de Santo Claro obtained 
from King Malcolm a grant of the lands and the barony of Roslin. 
These possessions were greatly increased by grants of land to the 
family from succeeding monarchs. 

Founder of the ChapeL — The founder of the chapel was Wil- 
liam St Clair, Prince of Orkney, and Duke of Oldenburgh, and 
the name of his princess was Elizabeth Douglas.f The existing 
title of Earl of Rosslyn is British, and was Grst conferred on the 

* There are several names of places cominemorative of circumstances connected 
vith this battle, such as <* the Shin-banes Field,'* where many bones were aftennards 
found ; ^< the Hewan," where the onslaught of the enemy was most dreadful, from 
the precipitous nature of the ground ; ^* the Stinking Rig/' where multitudes of 
the slain were buried, and, not being sufficiently covered, emitted an intolerable 
stench ; and <^ the KiUburn,'* a small brook said to have been discoloured with 
blood for three days. Tradition reports that Mount Marl, the name of a farm 
belonging to Sir Francis Walker Drummond, Bart, of Hawthornden« and which 
was included in the scene of the battle, derived its name from the following incident s 
When the English forces were on the point of being finally routed, Marl, one of 
their leaders, is said to have received this imp<»tant hint from one of his retainers, 
<( Mount, Marl, and ride." 

f The various titles are recited in Father Hay*i manuscript referred to. 



R08LIN. 341 

Lord Chancellor Wedderburn, Lord Loughborough, from whom 
h descended to his nephew, the late Earl, who was succeeded by 
his SOD, the present Earl, to whom belong the lands, Castle, and 
Chapel of Roslin. 

Koslin Chapel is situated in the vicinity of Roslin village, on a 
rising ground called the College Bill^ on the northern bank of the 
Esk, amidst the most lovely and romantic scenery of which Scot* 
iand can boast. 

- The chapel was founded in 1446, as a collegiate church, for 
a provost, six prebendaries, and two choristers or singing boys, 
and, when finished, was consecrated to St Matthew the Apostle, 
and endowed with lands and other revenues. Its founder, WiU 
Ham St Clair, intending that it should be possessed of the utmost 
splendour, employed in the erection of it the most excellent ma* 
sons in Europe, whom he attracted to his service by great rewards. 

The chapel was originally intended to be in the form of a cross, 
with a lofty tower in the centre, but was never completed, in con« 
sequence of the death of the founder in 1484; — the choir and 
east wall of the transept only having been erected, while the re- 
maining parts could scarcely be said to have been commenced. 
That part of the building which has been finished, is in the style 
of architecture which is called the florid Gothic. Elegance and 
variety are its distinguishing characteristics. While every sepa- 
rate department is executed with almost inimitable beauty, all 
the parts are different ; every window, every pillar, and every arch 
being distinguished from all the rest by ornamental workmanship 
of the most profuse and exquisite description. As an instance of 
the variety, as well as the beauty and elegance of this wonderful 
chapel, it may be mentioned that there are more than thirteen 
different kinds of arches to be found in it. The energies of the 
most accomplished stone-cutters that could be found, at the time 
when masonry had been brought to its utmost perfection, seem to 
have been expended in making the choir of this chapel a gem 
unique in its kind. 

Having entered the court leading to the chapel by a door-way, 
surmounted by an antique coronet, helmet, and shield, elegantly 
carved in stone, you have a view of the north side of the chapel. 
The north front consists of two walls ; the uppermost extending 
behind the five western buttresses, and resting on the arches of 
the side aisles in the interior. In the gfouud wall are five large 
windows, the ornaments of which are all varied ; and, in the up- 



342 EDINDURQHSHIUK. 

per wall, there is a similar row of windows. On the ground wall 
are seven buttressesi with curious canopied niches, and bracket 
pedestals, apparently intended for the reception of small statues. 
The buttresses are surmounted by richly ornamented conical and 
square pinnacles, embellished with crockets ; and the niches are 
all varied in their decorations, but with a tasteful uniformity in 
their arrangements. The pinnacles of the five westmost but- 
tresses are joined to a corresponding number of smaller ones 
behind, by flying arches. One of these has a double pinnacle, 
richly adorned with bands, and displaying a triple crown. The 
pinnacle behind it is connected by a flying abutment with the up«* 
per wall of the chapel, at the angle of which is seen a third pin- 
nacle, having ornaments resembling those seen in Grecian archi- 
tecture. 

The north door, by which visitors are admitted to the chapel, 
is approached under an arched porch, which has two crouching 
human figures inserted into the buttresses on both sides for its 
abutments, one of these figures having a key, and supposed to be 
St Peter. Its mouldings are richly carved, forming small paterae 
of foliage. The two buttresses which flank this door are deserv- 
ing of attention ; that on the east is enriched by a canopied niche, 
the pinnacle of which is highly ornamented with crochets and 
tracery, and is supported by a column pedestal* The west but- 
tress has a canopy equal in the beauty of its sculpture to the other, 
but without a pinnacle, and supported by a bracket pedestal, un- 
der which is a small figure in the act of doing penance. Above 
the door is a small window, in the form of a circular triangle, 
which lights part of the north aisle, both sides of which are boldly 
sculptured with foliage. On the east side of the door, at the 
bottom of the architrave of the lower window, is the representa- 
tion of a fox carrying off a goose, and a farmer delivering the un- 
fortunate bird from the jaws of the plunderer ; and, in the opp<H 
site corner of the same window, is a cherub playing on a musical 
instrument. 

The south front is similar to the north, with the exception of 
the door, which is composed of receding arches richly ornamented* 
In front is an arched porch, having, for an abutment on each side, 
a cherub waving a scroll. The mouldings of the^arch are orna- 
mented at regular distances with foliage. Above the door is a 
small window, of the form of an equilateral spherical triangle, pre- 



R08LIN. 343 

senting within its perimeter three Gothic points of great elegance, 
and it is ornamented all round with a double row of foliage. 

At the east end of the chapel are four windows of uniform size, 
but varied in their ornaments ; and five buttresses, each having a 
canopied niche with a column pedestal, and a bracket pedestal 
alternately, and surmounted by circular pinnacles. 

The west end of the chapel is terminated by a blank wall, clos- 
ing the centre and side aisles, and rising above the roof; and on 
the summit of the wall is a small belfry. In this wall are three 
door*ways, opening to the middle and side aisles ; but it is long 
since they have been built up. Each door-way outside has a 
square top or architrave, resting on imposts of richly sculptured 
capitals. Three ornamental piscinas and eight brackets are in- 
serted in the wall parallel with the doors ; and two brackets are 
elevated high in the wall, on one of which is represented the 
descent from the cross, and on the other the angels rolling away 
the stone from the door of the sepulchre. At each end of the ar- 
chitrave of the central door, is a human 6gure : that on the north 
represents a man bound by his middle and ankles to a tree, his 
hands being tied behind his back, and a man at each foot holding 
the ropes he is tied with. This is St Sebastian, who, according 
to the legend, was condemned by the Roman emperor Dioclesian, 
to be fastened to a tree, and shot with arrows ; the two men at his 
feet are two soldiers, crouching lest the arrows should strike them, 
and two arrows are represented as sticking in the left side of the mar- 
tyr, while he presents a serene and determined countenance to his 
])ersecutors. The figure on the south side appears to be of gi- 
gantic size, with a large stick in his left hand, and a child sitting 
on his right shoulder. This is St Christopher, a giant, who, as 
the legend says, on one occasion, carried the Saviour on his shoul- 
der across a river, supporting himself with the torn-up trunk of a 
tree, while he was ready to sink under the load. He knew not 
whom he carried till he reached the opposite shore, when Christ, 
in the form of a child, blessed him, and disappeared. All this is 
naturally expressed by the carving. 

No sooner does a visitor enter the chapel than he is struck with 
the immense profusion and the wonderful variety of the ornaments ; 
and, above all, with the grandeur and magnificence of the lofty 
roof, which is composed of a vast Gothic arch, divided into five 
compartments, each of them remarkable for the beauty and the 
diversity of its decorations. The roof of the chapel is supported 



344 EDINBUBGHSHIRE. 

by sixteen most elegant Gothic pillars, seven on each side of the 
building, and two at the east end of it. The height of the chapel 
inside, from the floor to the top of the high-arched roof, is 40 feet 
8 inches ; its length is 69 feet ; and its breadth is 34 feet 8 inches. 

The floor of the east chapel is elevated one step ; and its arched 
roof is only 15 feet in height. Here stood four altars, viz. one 
which is elevated two steps from the floor of the east chapel, and 
which seems to be improperly called the high altar, having more 
probably been dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; and other three aU 
tars on the floor of this chapel, which were dedicated respectively 
to St Matthew, St Peter, and St Andrew. The top stones of 
these four altars have been removed, but the bodies of them re- 
main, in a great measure, entire, — the very state in which they 
are described as being, about 250 years ago, in the records of the 
Presbytery of Dalkeith. 

The east chapel is separated from the eastern aisle by three 
pillars, which are connected by arches with the east wall, dividing 
the roof into four equal spaces. The groinings of the ceiling are 
of surprising grandeur and elegance, and the florid character of 
their ornaments is infinitely varied. The key-stones of the arches 
are beautiful pendants, each upwards of two feet in length ; that 
at the south end, immediately above what has been called the high 
altar, but which is rather to be considered as the altar dedicated 
to the Virgin Mary, is ornamented with foliage. The second pen- 
dant is enriched in a similar manner. Immediately below this 
pendant, the late Earl of Rosslyn, who died in 1837, is interred. 
The escutcheon of his armorial bearings is suspended above ; and 
his remains, like those of his countess, are covered with a large 
flag stone. The third pendant terminates in a representation of 
the star of Bethlehem, with eight figures carved around it. At 
the south point of the star is the Virgin, with the Babe in her arms; 
on the next point, to her right, is the manger ; on other three 
points are three eastern kings, each having a sceptre in his hand ; 
and on the remaining three points are representations of Death. 
Immediately below this pendant, the late Countess of Rosslyn 
(Miss Bouverie) is interred* The fourth pendant is ornamented 
with foliage. 

On the side of one of the arches, springing from the angle 
formed by the north and the east walls, and resting on the oppo« 
site pillar, there are several small figures, which were supposed to 
represent the resurrection, but they are now believed to be the 



ROSLIN. 345 

Dauce of Death. Commencing at the top of the arch, and 
descending to the right, the figures, which can be recognized, are, 
a king, a courtier, a cardinal, a bishop, a lady admiring her por-> 
trait, an abbess, and an abbot ; and each of these is accompanied 
with a figure of death dancing off with his prey. Again, com-* 
mencing at the top of the arch, and descending to the left, the 
following figures are quite distinct : a farmer, a husband and wifey 
a child, a sportsman, a gardener and spade, a carpenter, and 
a ploughman. Each of these also is accompanied by a figure 
of death, carrying off the individual ; and he is represented as in 
the act of making the separation between the husband and wife* 
On the capitals of the three pillars, which are between the east 
aisle and the east chapel, are thirteen angels with musical instru-» 
ments, representing the heavenly host praising God. At the 
south end of the east chapel, the arch is ornamented with human 
figures, and also with foliage ; the human figures being supposed 
to be a warrior, with helmet, and sword, and spear ; and a monk 
drinking, a crouched figure of death, a man with wide sleeves, 
a soldier, a female praying, a woman sitting in a chair, and a 
queen. 

On the architrave of the north aisle connecting the first and second 
pillar from the east, Samson is represented pulling down the house on 
the Philistines. The capital of the third pillar has an elephant, Sam- 
son killing the lion, and two hands grasping cockle*shells; and the 
capital of the opposite pilaster has a shield bearing a lamb, which 
carries a banner within a double tressure* The capital of the 
pext pillar represents the angels rolling back the stone from the 
door of the sepulchre. The capital of the next pillar has the 
disciples looking from afar to the crucifixion, which is represented 
on the capital of the opposite pilaster, where nine figures and a 
ladder are to be distinctly seen. On the next and last pillar in 
this row are represented two doves, and the prodigal son feeding 
swine. 

On the west wall of the north aisle, in the corner^ is the menu** 
ment of George, Earl of Caithness, with the following inscription 
in capital letters : " Hie jacet nobilis ac potens Dominus Georgius 
quondam comes Cathanensis Dominus Sinclar, jusliciarius Here-* 
ditarius diocesis Cathanensis, qui obiit Edinburgi 9 die mensi& 
Septembris, anno Domini 1582.'' 

Above the inscription are his armorial bearings, with the motto^ 
*-' Commit thv verk to God." 



346 EDINBUnGHSHlRlS. 

At the foot of the third and fourth pillars, and between them 
and the north wall, there is a large flagstone covering the mouth 
of a vault, in which ten barons of Rosslyn were buried before 
1690. It is so remarkably drj, that when the bodies of some 
of them were inspected eighty years after their interment, they 
were found in a state of perfect preservation. It was an ancient 
custom of this princely house, that all its barons were Buried with- 
out any coffin in their armour. Father Hay, alluding to this cus* 
torn, observes, ^^ The late Rosslyn, my good fetther, grandfisither 
to the present Rosslyn, was the first that was buried in a coffin^ 
against the sentiments of James VII., who was then in Scotland, 
and several other persons, well versed in antiquity, to whom my 
mother (Jean Spottiswood, grandniece of Archbishop Spottis- 
wood,) would not hearken, thinking it beggarly to be buried after 
that manner. The great expense she was at in burying her hus- 
band occasioned the sumptuary acts which were made in the fol- 
lowing Parliaments."* 

On the floor, between the fourth and fifth pillars, from the west 
end, in the north aisle, there is a coarse. flat stone, having cut upon 
it the rough outline of a man in armour, with his hands lifted up 
and joined as if engaged in prayer, with a greyhound at his feet, 
and a lion rampant in a small shield at each side of his head. 
This is supposed to mark the tomb of Sir William St Clair of 
Rosslyn, of whom Father Hay relates an interesting adventure. 

Centre Aisle, — The upper part of the centre aisle is lighted by 
five arched windows on each side, between which are canopies and 
brackets, twelve on the north side, and twelve on the south side, 
supposed to be for the Twelve Apostles, and as many saints and 
martyrs. In the east end is a beautiful arched window ; and be« 
low the centre of this window, is a niche of superior size and ele- 
gance, supposed to be intended for a statue of the Saviour or the 
Virgin. 

South ilt«/e.<— On the north side of the arch, connecting the 
second and third columns of the south range, from the west, are 
represented the Twelve Apostles, and four of the primitive Mar- 
tyrs, bearing the insignia of the deaths they respectively suffered. 
On the east side of the south door, is a beautiful font in the wall, 
which is much admired. 

* To the custom mentioned aboTOi and also to the tradition, that the turrets of the 
chapel were supernaturally illumined by flames, upon the death of any member of 
the Rosslyn femily, Sir Walter Soott alludes, in beautiful verses, in the Lay of the 
Last Minstrel. 



KosLI^f. 947 

On the west side of the architrave, coDnecting the second piU 
lar from the east with the south wall, are represented the follow* 
ing figures, viz. a bishop in his pontifical garments and insigniaf 
and giving the blessing, with the right hand lifted up, and the two 
forefingers distinctly pointing out, — a man, supposed to be the 
proud Pharisee ; a drunkard with a flagon at his mouth ; a woman 
giving a cup to a man ; the careless shepherd ; the rich fool ; the 
miser with his hands in his pockets ; two lovers ; and, lastly, a 
devil in the mouth of a crocodile, emblematical of hell, stretching 
out his claws towards the other figures. The figures are survey- 
ed with a grin of delight by Satan himself from the west jamb of 
the third window, from the east, in the south ground wall. It i» 
quite evident that the figures in this range are intended to repre- 
sent the principal vices, with the church offering salvation from 
them, and the spirits of darkness expecting that they will lead 
their votaries to everlasting destruction. The arch of the adjoin* 
ing window represents the nine orders of angels. . 

On the opposite side of this architrave, there are represented a 
cardinal bishop ; a cripple, supported by crutches, leading a blind 
man ; one person clothing the naked ; another visidng the sick ; 
another visiting those in prison ; a female attending the fatherless ; 
one feeding the hungry ; two bui:ying the dead, one at the head 
and another at the feet ; and St Peter with a key. It is abundant- 
ly evident that the figures in this range are intended to represent 
the principal virtues, and the admission of those who practise 
them into the kingdom of heaven. Tbe arch of the adjoining win- 
dow is adorned with twelve human figures. 

The Apprentices PiV/ar.-— This pillar, which is the most easter- 
ly in the south row, and stands in the south-east corner of the cha- 
pel, is perfectly unique, and remarkably beautiful. Around the 
shaft are four wreaths of flowers, all difierent from one another, 
all exhibiting specimens of the most delicate chiselling, and all as- 
cending, in a spiral form, from the base to tbe capital, at the dis- 
tance of eighteen inches from one another. On the base of the 
pillar are several dragons chained together by the heads, and mu- 
tually entwined. On the south side of the capital, Isaac is repre- 
sented lying on the altar, with the ram caught by the horns in a 
thicket ; and, on the east end of the architrave, connecting this 
elegant pillar with the one to the west, is Abraham standing in 
view of his devoted son, with his hands lifted up in prayer. On 
tbe opposite end is a man playing on bagpipes, and another man 



348 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

recumbent at his feet And^ on the architrave, which connects the 
epprentice's pillar with the corresponding pilaster on the south 
wall, is seen the following inscription in Old English or Saion 
characters, on the west side : ^^ Forte est vinum, fortior est rex, 
fortiores sunt mulieres ; super omnia vincit Veritas, L Exd. Chap. 
3, ver. 10-12." 

There is a tradition relating to the apprentice's pillar, which has 
prevailed for ages in the family of Rossljn. The model of it was 
sent from Rome, but the master-mason, distrusting his own capa- 
city to Gnish it, without inspecting the original pillar from which 
it was taken, went to Rome to examine it« In his absence, one 
of his apprentices undertook the task, and completely succeeded, 
which so enraged the master on his return, that be lifted a ham- 
mer and killed him on the spot. The three heads at the west end 
of the chapel are understood to be commemorative of this tragedy. 
Nearly half-way up the transept wall, in the south-west corner of 
the body of the chapel, is a head, with a cut above the right eye, 
which is said to represent the head of the apprentice, who finished 
the remarkable pillar. In a line with it, and above the second piU 
hir of the south aisle, from the west, is the head of a woman weep- 
ing, intended for the mother of the apprentice lamenting the un- 
timely death of her son. And, in the north-west comer, is the head 
of an old man frowning, representingthe head of the master- 
mason. 

Sacristy or Vestry, — In the south-east corner of the chapel, and 
below the place where the elevated altar stood, is a subterraneous 
staircase of twenty-four steps, conducting, through an arch, to a 
smaller chapel, which was used as a sacristy or vestry. This was 
erected by the first lady of William, the founder of the great cha- 
pel. Dame Elizabeth Douglas, formerly Countess of Buchan, and 
daughter of Archibald, the second Earl of Buchan of that name. 
Though the passage to this sacristy or vestry is subterraneous, it- 
self is above ground, and rests on the edge of the bank ; its height 
is 15 feet 2 inches, its length 36 feet, and its breadth 14 feet It 
has one large arched window in the east wall, where once stood 
an altar dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Looking towards the win- 
dow, on the right hand, is a pedestal for a statue, with an escut- 
cheon having the arms of Caithness, Douglas, and St Clair. In a 
direct line, on the opposite side of the window, is a similar pedes- 
tal, with an engrailed cross on a shield, probably intended for a 
statue of Rosslyn, This sacristy or vestry once had, in the south 



ROSLIN. 349 

wall} a low arched door» now shut up, by which a persou might 
have entered it without passing through the chapel above. On 
the same side of the building there is a recess for a chimney; 
Both in the north and the south walls there are several niches, of 
various kinds, which may have been designed for keeping the sa* 
cred vessels employed in the service of the chapel, and the vest* 
ments of the priests* In the south-east corner, there is a piscina 
or foot, with a square niche on the east side of it« The roof of the 
small chapel, like that of the large one, is divided into five com- 
partments. The ribs are beautiful specimens of the ingrailedcrosSi 
while the compartments themselves are plain. 

Nearly a century ago, the chapel received some considerable 
repairs from its proprietor, General St Clair, who caused the lower 
roof to be covered anew with flag stones, the windows to be glazed, 
and the floor to be mended in several places. It is now undergo- 
ing extensive repairs from the liberality of the present Earl of 
Rosslyn. - 

Endowments of the Chapel. — At the time when the chapel was 
erected, it was endowed by its founder with the church lands of 
Pentland, four acres of meadow near that town, with the kips, and 
eight sowmes of grass. In the year 1523, one of his successors 
farther endowed it with some portions of land in the neighbour- 
hood, for dwelling-houses and gardens to the provost and preben- 
daries. These possessions, which were not very ample, passed 
away from it at the Reformation; and on February SS6th )571» 
the provost and prebendaries, by a deed, in which they complain 
that their revenues had long been forcibly withheld from them» 
resigned them absolutely into the hands of the laity. Father 
Hay says, that to this deed there were appended the seal of the 
chapter of this collegiate church, being St Mathew in a church, 
red upon white wax ; and the seal of Sir William Sinclair, the then 
baron of Rosslyn, being a ragged or engrailed cross, red upon 
white wax.* 

Rosdyn Castle. — Rosslyn Castle is situated about 200 yards 
below the chapel, on a rocky eminence, which is almost enclosed 
in one of the folds of the Esk, which here assumes a beautiful ser- 
pentine form. Little now remains of this ancient and venerable 
stronghold, but a majestic pile of ruins : though the triple tier of 
vaults on the left, and the massive walls, as well as the enormous 
fragments which are scattered about, cannot fail to impress the 

* Extracts from the Records of the Presbytery of Dalkeith, curious and interest- 
ing, as connected with Rosslyn Chapel and iu proprietor, for the timebein|, are de- 
posited along with the MS. of this article. 



330 EDINBURQHSHIRK. 

mind with some idea of its original strength and grandeur. It is 
impossible for us to ascertain when it was built, though it is pro- 
bable that it was founded towards the end of the eleventh centurv. 
We do not find any mention made of it in history till the reign of 
James IL, when we read of Sir William Hamilton being confined 
therein in 1455, for engaging in the rebellion which Earl Dou- 
glas had raised against that monarch. In 1544, this castle, as 
well as many others in the Lothians, was demolished by the En- 
glish army, dispatched by Henry VI IL, upon the rough wooing of 
Mary, the infant Queen of Scots* In 1650, it was again battered 
down by a division of the army of Oliver Cromwell, under the 
command of General Monk. And on the night of the 1 1th of 
December 1688, it was attacked and plundered by a lawless mob, 
composed partly of the tenants of the barony and partly of miscre- 
ants from Edinburgh : and, on the early part of the same night, 
some of the most splendid and beautiful ornaments of the chapel 
were defaced by the same ruffians. 

In addition to the above misfortunes. Father Hay, in his manu- 
script, mentions another which we shall narrate at length in his 
words. '^ About this time, viz. 1447, Edward Sinclair of Dry- 
den, coming with four gray hounds and some ratchets, to hunt 
with the prince, met a great company of rats, and, among the rest, 
one old blind lyard one with a straw in his mouth, led by the rest, 
whereat he greatly marvelled, not thinking what was to follow ; 
but within four days afler, viz. the feast of St Leonard, the prin- 
cess, who took great delight in little dogs, caused one of the gen- 
tlewomen to go under the bed with a lighted candle, to bring forth 
one of them that had young whelps, which she doing, and not being 
very attentive, set fire on the bed, whereat the fire rose and burnt the 
bed, and then passed to the ceiling of the great chamber in which 
the princess was, whereat she and all that were in the dungeon 
wer compelled to fly.'' 

^ The prince's chaplain seeing this, and remembering of all 
his mastoids writings, passed to the head of the dungeon where 
they were, and threw out four great trunks where they were. 
The news of this fire coming to the prince's ears through the 
lamentable cries of the ladies and gentlewomen ; and the sight 
thereof coming to his view in the place where he stood, viz. upon 
the college hill, he was sorrow for nothing but the loss of his char- 
ters and other writings ; but when the chaplain, who had saved 
himself by coming down the bell rope tied to a beam, declared 
how his charters and writs were all saved, he became cheerful, and 



HOSLIN. ^51 

went to re*coinfort his princess aud the ladies, desiring them to 
put away all sorrow ; and rewarded his chaplain very richly. Yet 
all this stayed him not from building of the college, with his 
liberality to the poor, but was rather more liberal to them than 
before, applying the safety of his charters and writs to God's par* 
ticular providence." 

Entrance to the Castle, — TJie promontory on which the castle 
stands is insulated by a deep natural ravine on the land side, over 
which there is a narrow bridge, to be approached from the east* 
The gate of entrance was on the west end of this bridge, and was 
powerfully defended : and, immediately behind this kind t)f out- 
work, was an immense building of several stories, forming one side 
of the square of the castle. On the right or north side of the 
square was a massive wall, the greater part of which is still stand* 
ing ; and at the south end of this wall was a tower of vast size. In 
the court was a well for supplying the inmates with water. Mr 
Hay in his manuscript has given several views of the castle in its 
entire state, and he is said to have made these with his pen. 

Extent of the Castle. — From east to west the castle is about 200 
feet in length ; it is nearly 90 feet in breadth, and the walls are 
about 9 feet thick. On the ruins of this ancient building, and 
over the vaults, is a comparatively modern house, with the letters 
S. W. S., (Sir William Sinclair,) and the date 1622, over the 
door. The ceiling of the dining room is enriched with antique 
pannels and designs, variously ornamented and intermixed with 
the armorial bearings of the St Clair family. 

Ancient Establishment — According to Father Hay, the esta- 
blishment maintained by Prince William, the founder of the cha- 
pel, and his Princess, Elizabeth Douglas, was most magnificent* 
He was served at his table, it is said, in vessels of gold and silver, 
by Lord Dirleton, as Master of his Household ; by Lord Berth- 
wick, as his Cup-bearer; and by Lord Fleming, as his Carver; 
each of whom had a deputy of equal rank to officiate in his ab-* 
sence. His lady was served by seventy-five gentlewomen, of whom 
fifty-three were the daughters of noblemen, and all of them were 
attired in silk and velvet, and adorned with chains of gold and 
other jewels. When travelling from Rosslyn to the family man- 
sion in Edinburgh, which was at the foot of Blackfriar's Wynd, 
she was attended by two hundred gentlemen on horseback, and, 
if after nightfall, by other eighty persons bearing torches. 

The Maiden Castle. — This castle was situated between two and 



3^2 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

three hundred yards to the south of the Hewan, within another 
fold of the Esk, where this romantic river seems to linger in a re- 
gion of surpassing sweetness and loveliness. Nothing now remains 
of this fortress but parts of the foundation, which are still visible at 
some points. And even tradition is unable to communicate any 
notices of this stronghold, which, as its name indicates, was never 
taken by an enemy. Though the oldest inhabitants have been 
questioned on this subject, they are found to be acquainted with 
nothing more than the name of the castle, whose origin and his- 
tory have been long lost in the mists of antiquity. 

Ston^ Coffin. — In August 1754, a farmer ploughing his field near 
the village of Roslin turned up the corner of a stone coflSn, about 
nine feet long, which contained the bones of a human body. The 
bones were much decayed, except the skull and teeth, which were 
sound and large. This must have been the grave of some British 
warrior, ratherthan the coffin of one of the chiefs who fell in the 
battles of Roslin, in the year 1002. 

Hezekiah Merricks, Esq., Eskhill, has in his possession three 
silver coins, apparently of very considerable antiquity. Each of 
them is about the size of a common sixpence, and is supposed to 
belong to the reign of Edward L of England. They were found 
on the public road at Harper^s Hall Brae. 

A silver buckle, of very rude workmanship, and also a brooch, 
with engraving, and something like green enamel on it, were found 
at the above-nientioned place. These were in the possession of 
John Merricks, Esq. Eskhill. 

III. — Population. 
About the time when the chapel was building, Roslin was the 

most populous town in the Lothians, excepting Edinburgh and 
Haddington. It was erected into a burgh of barony by James II. 
in 1456, with the privilege of holding a weekly market, and a 
yearly fair; and the pedestal of the ancient market cross is still 
to be seen at the centre of the village.* 

Roslin is now a small village. The following has been its po- 
pulation for the last eleven years : — 

1829, 68 fiimiIie8.259soub. 
1890, 74 ... 287 ... 
1831, 81 ... 3^20 ... 
lOtfib, oo ... 949 •.• 

1833, 82 ... 343 ... 

* See MS. for an accurate copy of the original charter, as it is to be found in 
Father Hay*8 Manuscript. 



R08LIN. 353 

1834, 84 finnilies— d66«oul4. 

1835, 82 ... 370 ... 
1836,78 . . 356 ... 

1837, 86 ... 387 ... 

1838, 88 ... 413 ... 

1839, 90 ... 401 ... 

The increase of the population of Roslin village is owing to the 
extension of the works of a gunpowder manufactory and of a 
bleachfield, both of which are in the immediate neighbourhood. 

The population of Roslin parish, quoad sacra^ is as follows; — 



iaa5, 326 famUies 


-.1611 souk. 


1836, 327 ... 


1646 ... 


1837, 341 


1731 ... 


1838, 346 ... 


1733 ... 


1839, a'>4 ... 


1744 ... 



The majority of the population reside in small villages. Not 
one of these is worthy of the name of a town. 

In 1838^ the number of males in the parish was 8429 and the 
number of females 891 ; total, 1733. In 1839, the number of 
males was 845, and the number of females 899 ; total, 1744. 

Resident Proprietors. — The only resident proprietors of land in 
the parish are, George Mercer, Esq. of Dryden, and Robert 
Brown, Esq. of Firth. 

IV. — Industry. 

Agriculture.^^ K% both proprietors and land cultivators refused 
to communicate the facts which were necessary to be known, in 
order to compile the statistics under this head, only a few general 
statements can be made. 

By far the largest proportion of the parish is in a state of culti- 
vation ; a very considerable number of acres are under wood ; and 
only a small number remain constantly waste. There is no undi- 
vided common. 

Husbandry and improvement are here assuming a high characi- 
ter. Draining is carried on to a great extent ; apd the face of 
nature is changing to the better. 

Manufactures. — The largest manufactory of gunpowder in Scot- 
land is in this parish. It belongs to Messrs Hay and Merrieks, and 
has been established for thirty-six years. It gives employment to 
about 60 men, 30 of whom are coopers. The wages of the latter, 
who work by the piece, vary from 18s. to L.1, 15s. per week. 
The arrangements made for conducting the work are admirable, 
and consequently very few accidents occur. It is admitted on all 
hands that the article produced is excellent in quality. 

There is a manufactory of writing and prbting paper in this 

EDINBURGH. Z 



354 EDINBURGHSHIRE* 

parish. It belongs to Messrs Cadell, and gives employment to a 
considerable number of persons, both maJe and female. One 
machine is in operation day and night ; and various kinds of excel- 
lent paper made. 

Bkad^fieUL — The bleachBeld here is much celebrated, and 
most extensively employed. A considerable number, both of 
males and females, derive their support from it. 

V. — Parochial Economy. 

Marhet'Towns. — Edinburgh and Dalkeith are the two market- 
towns resorted to, — the former being seven miles, and the latter 
six miles distant. 

Villages. — The two principal villages in the parish are Roslin 
and Rosewell. 

Means of Communication. — There is a full post*o£Bce establish* 
ed here, with two arrivals and one departure. There are five miles 
of turnpike roads in the parish. The great Dumfries road goes 
through it nearly a mile; and, along this road, the following 
coaches travel, viz. the Dumfries mail-coach, the Peebles coach, 
and one from the Wellington Inn to and from Edinbui^h. 

There is a great want of bridges in the parish. The precipi- 
tous banks of the Esk prevent communication, in a great measure, 
between the inhabitants on the opposite sides of the river. 

Ecclesiastical ^Stofe.— The parish church is situated near the one 
end of the parish, being one mile from the east end, and five miles 
from the west end. It was built in 1827, and is in a good state 
of repair. It contains 444 sittings in the lower area, and is con- 
structed to admit of galleries containing 200 or 250 sittings, — if 
so many should be required. Free sittings are allowed to the poor. 

The manse was built in 1832 at the expense of the congrega- 
tion. The church, manse, and school-house cost L.1600, and 
the only remaining debt is L.100 on the church,-— the other build<* 
ings being quite free. The stipend of the minister is L.150. 

There is one Dissenting meeting-house in the parish at Bridg- 
end. It belongs to the United Secession. There are two colle- 
giate ministers, both paid by the seat«rents and the collection 
made at the door. 

About two-thirds of the population belong to the Established 
Church, and one-third to the Dissenters. 

The communion roll contains upwards of 300 names. 

There is an association in the parish for supporting the various 
schemes of the General Assembly, and also for contributing to 



ROSLIN. 355 

the Bible Society and the Moravian missions. The amount con- 
tributed, however, is small, owing to this circumstance, that al- 
most all the public institutions in the parish are supported by vo- 
luntary contributions. And, as the demands among the parishioners 
are great and urgent, little can be given to other objects. 

Education. — There are four schools in the parish, and only one 
of them is provided with a small permanent salary. Two of them 
belong to the minister, a third is placed under his superintendence, 
and a fourth belongs to R. B. Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq. of White^ 
hill. There are also three Sabbath schools, which, together with 
the four day schools, belong to the Established Church. From 
the year 1835, down to the present time, more than a sixth part 
of the whole population have been in attendance at the four day 
schools ; and more than a tenth part of the whole population have 
been in attendance at the three Sabbath schools. 

The minister visits the whole parish annually, and takes account 
of the children who are at school, or who ought to be at it. In 
order to encourage the poor to educate their children, he finds the 
following method to work well. When he meets with a poor man 
who finds great difficulty in providing the means of education, he 
makes an agreement with him to send one of his children to school, 
if he will send another, or perhaps two ; and if the party be very 
poor, two are sent to school free of expense to him, as long as he 
pays for one. At present, the minister is educating thirty-two chiU 
dren in this way ; and it may be safely affirmed of the parish in 
general, that there is scarcely to be found in it a child who ought 
to be at school, and who is not at one. 

Library. — A small library connected whh the church, and eon« 
taining 270 volumes, has been in existence since 1828. The num- 
ber of volumes at the commencement was scarcely one-half of what 
it is now. 

Friendly Society. — There is a Friendly society in the parish. It 
contains a considerable number of members. It is constructed on 
sound principles, and is well conducted. Much benefit is obtain- 
ed from it by the community. 

Public^ Houses. — There are 7 houses in the parish where strong 
drinks are sold. Four of these are in Roslin village, or in the im- 
mediate vicinity. Were they reduced in number, the public mo* 
rals could not fail to be greatly improved thereby. 

June 184a 



PARISH OF MID-CALDER. 

PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAK & TWEEDDALB.* 



1. — Topography and Natural History. 

Name^ Boundaries, Sfc. — Calder is a common territorial ap- 
pellation in Scotland, and always denotes some spot adjacent to 
water, or rather to a rivulet This name is of Celtic origin — Cal^ 
Celf or Coilj being descriptive of wooded or wild regions ; and Dur, 
or Dour, signifying water. 

The parish of Mid-Calder lies in the direction of north and 
south; and, by the straigh test footpath or bridle road, from the 
north-east to the south-west extremity of the parish, extends from 
eleven to twelve miles in length. Its average breadth is from two 
and a half to three miles ; but, in one place, it does not extend above 
three or four hundred yards. It is bounded on the north by the 
parish of Uphall ; on the south, by Linton ; on the east, by the 
united parishes of Kirknewton and East- Calder, together with 
those of Currie and a small portion of Kirkliston ; and, on the 
west, by the parishes of West- Calder and Livingstone. By a sin- 
gular coincidence, Listen- Shields, the property of the late Sir 
Robert Listen, which is situated on the south-east extremity of this 
parish, belongs to Kirkliston, although it lies at the distance of 
seven or eight miles from any other part of that parish. The ridge 
of the Cairn hills forms the southern boundary of the parish, and 
may be considered as a (Continuation of the Pentlands westward till 
they reach the parish of West- Calder. There are no elevations 
in this parish which can properly be called mountains. The eastern 
Cairn Hill is the highest point ; and, if Knox's map can be re- 
lied upon, its summit is about 1800 feet above the medium level 
of the sea. This spot commands a most extensive view of the 
Frith and basin of the Forth, with the adjacent scenery towards 
Stirling, the coast of Fife, and the Oehils. At the eastern extre- 

' Drawn up by the late incumbenti the Rev. John Somniers. 



MID-CALDER. 357 

mity of the Cairn Hilt, which forms the southeast boundary of the 
parish, south of Harper- rig, there is a hollow slope or declivity, 
known by the name of the Caldstane Slap^ through which pass, 
lies the drove road most commonly frequented by dealers in sheep 
and cattle between the Scotch and English markets. This road 
is passable also for travellers on horseback during the summer 
months. 

The village of Mid-Calder is delightfully situated on the south 
bank of the Almond, near its junction with Linhouse and Muries* 
ton Waters. On the east, is the extensive and romantic wood of 
Calder ; and, on the west, is Calder House, which stands on an 
elevated lawn, surrounded by ornamental walks, and sheltered by 
lofty trees and numerous plantations* The town is twelve miles 
west of Edinburgh, twenty from Lanark, and thirty-two from Glas- 
gow. Calder was formerly the name of a district in the western 
part of the cbunty of Edinburgh, or Mid- Lothian, comprehending 
the three parishes of Calder Comitisor Mid- Calder, Calder Clere 
or East- Calder, and that portion which now constitutes the parish 
of West- Calder. The £rst of these obtained its name from hav* 
ing been in possession of the Earls of Fife, so early as the twelfth 
century ; and the second, Calder Clere or East Calder, ff om one 
Randulph de Clere, who held a grant of the manor from Malcolm 
IV. The parish of Calder Clere was united to that of Kirknew- 
ton in 1750, and was, at same time, detached from the presbytery 
of Linlithgow, and united to the presbytery of Edinburgh. This 
extensive parish of Calder Comitis, in 1645, was again divided into 
those of Mid and West* Calder, as appears from our presbytery re- 
cords, in which it is stated that, on the 1 2th of June of that year^ 
Patrick Shields was translated from the parish of Livingstone to 
West- Calder. This threefold division of the original parish suffix 
ciently accounts for the scantiness of the teind, and, consequently, 
for the limited portion of stipend allotted to each of these be* 
nefices* 

Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere varies con- 
siderably between the banks of the streams clothed with wood in 
the lower districts of the parish, and the higher ground upon the 
cold boggy land and barren heath. In low, sheltered situations, 
the thermometer generally ranges between 35 and 60 ; and the 
barometer from 28^ to 30}. 

Hydrography. — This parish is intersected by three considerable 
rivulets, which run from west toeast — the Almond^ the Murieston, 



858 BDINBUBGHSHIRE. 

and the Linhouse waters. Od entering this parish on the west, 
these streams are distant from each other about a mile and a-hali; 
but they all meet together at the northern extremity of the village^ 
by the two last mingling their waters with the Almond. In pas- 
sing through the parish, these streams are increased, in their pro- 
gress, by many small tributaries, flowing from innumerable springs 
in the higher grounds. Besides the three waters above-mentioned, 
there is another, which takes its rise in the upper and southern 
district of the parish, called the Wester Burn, which, after pro- 
ceeding eastward, assumes the name of Leith-Head Water, or 
Water-of-Leith, intersecting the parish in the same direction from 
west to east. 

The springs in this parish are very numerous, and many of them 
consist of pure, soft, and excellent water ; but there are others in 
which the water is so much impregnated with iron, that its quality 
may be easily distinguished, both by the taste and smell. On be- 
ing exposed, however, for a few minutes to the air, these pecu- 
liarities can scarcely be perceived. It then becomes agreeable to 
the taste, and fit for all culinary purposes. 

Geology and Mineralogy. — This parish is intersected by three 
great public roads ; the northern line running between Edinburgh 
and Glasgow ; the middle line between Edinburgh and Ayr ; and 
the southern line between Edinburgh and Lanark by Carnwath ; 
the two former passing through the village of Mid-Calder. From 
the Almond northward to the parish of Uphall, the ground has a 
southern exposure ; but from the river to the summit of the Cairn 
hills, which form the boundary between this and the parish of Lin- 
ton, the aspect of the ground is to the north. The land upon the 
banks of this river and all its tributary streams, as may be supposed, 
is, in general, the most fertile, and some of it consists of a rich, dry, 
and productive loam ; but, on retiring from the banks to a more 
elevated situation, the ground generally becomes less fertile, and 
at length terminates in a thin, barren clay, upon a hard, cold, and 
dark-blue till or shale. But even this naturally sterile soil has 
been rendered productive in some places, by thorough draining, 
and the liberal application of lime and other kinds of manure. It 
may be observed^ that in the upper district of the parish there is 
a large portion of Datarally unproductive ,land, which, by proper 
draining, spade-culture, hoeing, and other modern improvements, 
might be sufficient to support a numerous population. 

Abundance of excellent rock of various kinds, such as freestone. 



MID-CALDER. 359 

(sandstone,) wliinstone, and limestone, has been discovered in differ- 
ent places throughout the parish. Quanies of all these have, at one 
time or other, been in actual operation. Ode for road-metal is now 
open on the estate of Howden, the property of Mrs White. This, 
liowever, is intended only for private use. Another, on the estate 
of Linhouse, was in operation not many years ago ; and one on the 
estate of Pumpherston, belonging to the Earl of Buchan, both of 
which are now used for the public roads* A quarry of excellent 
limestone has long been, and still continues open, for the supply 
of the neigbouring tenantry, on Mr Hog's estate of Easter Muri- 
eston. This limestone has never been found in a regular stratum, 
but in long beds or nests, or of a round globular form, at short 
distances from one another. It admits of a beautiful polish, and 
has been used as marble, both in the country and in Edinburgh. 
A considerable stratum of excellent limestone, some years ago, 
was also opened up in the lands of Colzium, by pits, now the pro- 
perty of the Rev. Dr Laird of Portmoak. A kiln of it was burnt 
and examined by Dr Fyfe, and was found to be of the best qua- 
lity ; but, being too distant from coal, it afforded no prospect of 
covering the expenses necessary to render it useful to the com- 
munity. A freestone quarry has long been in operation in Cat- 
der-wood. The stone is fit for all kinds of architecture, being hard 
and durable, and capable of being wrought to an unlimited extent. 
Within these few years, a quarry of unexhaustible freestone was 
opened at the bottom of the .ridge of the Cairn Hills. In this 
quarry, blocks of any magnitude may be raised at a moderate ex- 
pense ; and the buildings which have been already erected of this 
stone, are sufficient to prove that, from its durable nature and 
beauty, it is eminently fitted for all the purposes of the most de- 
licate architecture. The bottom of the Cairns Hill seems to be 
wholly composed of this stone ; and the extent and thickness of it 
must be immense* The dip of the strata of all these rocks is, in 
general, towards the south. In several places on the banks of the 
Murieston .Water, and particularly on the property of John Keir, 
Esq., there is a kind of rotten rock, intermixed with a species of 
crystal, in the cavities of which have been found small portions of 
bitumen ; but the stone itself is of little value> because^ after 
being exposed for a year or two to the action of the air and 
frost, it crumbles into dust. No anim<il remains have hitherto 
been discovered in any of these rocks; but several petrifactions of 
the pine tribe liave been found iu the strata, and small portions 



360 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

also of crystatlized quartz. Many excellent specimens of vain'- 
able ironstone are almost everywhere to be found in the beds 
of the rivers; but the quantity is not sufficient to compensate 
the expense of carriage and the labour of digging them out of the 
banks. 

A 6ne specimen of rich lead ore was lately dug up, by Mr 
Young of Harburn, when sinking for water, in one of his farms 
in this parish. It was found about sixteen feet below the surface. 
But no attempt has hitherto been made to follow up this discovery, 
although, since that period, lead ore has been dug up in three 
other parts of the Harburn estate. A small seam of coal was also 
found, some years aga, in the upper district of the parish, between 
Camilty and Crosswoodburn ; and^ since that time, several others 
have been discovered, one of them between three and four feet 
thick, very near the surface ; and this estate abounds also in lime- 
stone and manganese, with many promising appearances of iron. 
The covering of the rocks is of various kinds. If the rotten rock or 
whinstone be near the surface, the soil is dry and fertile ; but when 
deep, it is generally cold and wet. It cannot be said that any of 
these fields of rock are covered with alluvial deposits, or with 
transported soil, unless what has been for ages accumulated along 
the bottom of the Cairn Hills can be considered of this descrip- 
tion. In many spots, the soil may be considered as rich ; but, 
being exposed to so much moisture, and in so elevated a si- 
tuation, the process of vegetation must necessarily be slow ; and 
the grasses being of a diminutive growth, although of excellent 
quality, yield a more scanty supply. 

Z^otony.— -The plants most peculiarly attached to the best 
soils are the poas, meadow fescue, Timothy grass, cocks foot, 
Daetylus glomerata^ meadow soft grass, or Yorkshire white, 
Holcvs lanatus. On moist clay and mossy soils is to be found 
that very valuable grass brought into notice by Dr Richard- 
son of Ireland, and which has been advantageously cultivated 
by Mr Young of Harburn and others, in the parish of Mid-Cal- 
der, to great extent, and at little expense, — the creeping bent 
grass, or fiorin, Jyrostis stolonifera. It grows luxuriantly in a wet 
or spongy soil, unsuitable for other grasses ; and its growth is most 
vigorous in moist, warm, and sheltered spots. In favourable sea- 
sons, when properly cultivated, it yields from four to five hundred 
stones per acre of the most nourishing food for cattle and horses ; 
and it is not liable to be injured by the wetness of the season like 



MID-C ALDER. 361 

common fye^grass hay. The white clover, Jrifbliwn repens^ is 
another of the natural grasses^ which is peculiarly attached to the 
soils of this district, and is reckoned one of the most valuable pas- 
ture grasses which requires no cultivation. In the inferior, stiff 
soils, which are unfriendly to healthy vegetation, the dock and 
the common rush universally maintain their hold ; but, as soon as 
the ground is properly drained, and comes under cultivation, they 
are no longer to be seen. 

The botany of this parish furnishes little that is peculiarly 
interesting. Of the rarer plants found here, the following may 
serve as an example; and the statement having been furnish* 
ed by Robert Maughan, Esq. of Edinburgh, who is well known as 
an eminent botanist, may be relied upon as correct. 

List of plants found in Culderwood. 

Hypericum pulchrum Ranunculus auricomui Habenaris bifblia 

Geranium syWaticum Equiaetum sylyatioum Paris quadrifolia 

Asperula odorata Lysimacbia Nemorum Hyacinthus non-scriptus 

Cnicus heterophyllofl Asplenium Filix-^fcemina Fl. Alb. 

Myosotis sylvatica Valeriana officinalis Hypericum birsutum 

Milium etfusum Aspidium spinulosum • — humiFusum 

Rubus saxatiiis Viburnum Opulua Allium ursinum 

Pyrola minor Viola palustris Campanula latifolia 

Melampyrum syWaticum Prunus Cerasus Trollius Europsus 

Luzula sylvatica Trifolium filiibnnc LisCera Nidus- Avis 

Hubu9 ccsius Lotus major Rubus Chamaemorus 

• 

The plantations here consist chiefly of the common fir, larch, 
spruce, the oak, the beech, the ash, and the elm. Almost all 
those varieties seem adapted to the soil and climate, and in gene- 
ral thrive well. Near Calder House there are many fine limes 
and beeches ; but the tree that seems to have attained to the larg- 
est size is a plane, which, from age, is now reduced to a mere 
trunk. In the former Statistical Account of this parish, it is stat* 
ed that the trunk of this tree was 14 feet high, its circumference 
at the thickest part, 18 feet, and that the branches extended at 
least 80 feet on either side. On this tree are two large protube- 
rances where it is said ihejuffs were formerly fixed. The age of 
this plane cannot be exactly ascertained ; but it is particularly 
mentioned in our session records, December 1617, and as being 
then of a very considerable size. 

The most extensive tract of woodland in this district, is Caldefw 
wood, the property of Lord Torphichen. It lies south-east of 
Calder House, and is very beautifully situated between the Mu- 
rieston and Linhouse Waters, the former of which is sometimes 



362 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

called the Fore-wood Water, and tfae latter the Back-wood 
Water. It appears to have been originally a copsewood, the out* 
skirts of which have been filled up with forest and other trees. It 
extends up the banks of the Linhouse Water above a mile and a 
half. 

The trees to which the richest soils appear to be most conge- 
nial are, the plane-tree, Flatanusj the lime-tree, the ash, the beech, 
and all the different species of poplars and willows. All these 
thrive best in a humid loam. There are many oaks also, but none 
of which have as yet arrived at any great age or perfection. 

II. — Civil History. 
Familt/ of Tofphichen. — The first authentic account we have of 

this ancient family, is in the reign of David IL, 1336, when Sir 
James Sandilands obtained a grant from that monarch of lands in 
the county of Peebles, for his lands of Craiglockard and Steny- 
path, in the county of Edinburgh. He also possessed the lands 
and barony of Wiston, in Lanarkshire; and, in 1346, he obtained 
a confirmation of the lands of Sandilands and Reidmyre, in Dou- 
glasdale, from William, Lord Douglas. Having greatly distin- 
guished himself by his many heroic actions and eminent services, 
under that illustrious commander, in the war against the English, 
he became so great a favourite that he obtained the hand of his 
sister, Elionora, Countess of Carrick, in marriage. She was only 
daughter of Archibald Douglas, of Douglas, and relict of Alex- 
ander Bruce, Earl of Carrick ; and with her he received the ba- 
rony of West-Calder, in ** liberum marttaffium^" to be held by 
them and their heirs, in like manner as Earl William held the said 
barony from Duncan, Earl of Fife. In this manner arose the con- 
nection of the House of Sandilands with that of Douglas ; and, in 
consequence of this alliance, the Sandilands family came eventu- 
ally, as heirs-at-law, to quarter the Douglas's arms with their 
own. 

James Sandilands, the fruit of this alliance, being also a person 
of great merit, received the honour of knighthood from Robert IL, 
who esteemed him so highly, that he gave him his own lawful 
daughter, the Lady Jane, together with a grant of the baronies of 
Dalzell, Modirvale, and the lands of Erthbisset, Auchtirbanok, 
and Slamanonmoor, with other pertinents, which the family gra- 
dually lost ; but from their predilection to Calder, and this being 
their principal residence, they are chiefly known under that desig- 
nation. These facts are sufliciently proved by authentic evidence 



MID-CALDER. 363 

ID the Torphicben charter-chest, which further demonstrates the 
affluence and consideration of this family in ancient times. Among 
other documents in the possession of the family, there is one of 
1384, whereby King Robert IL, who was then at Calder House, 
attended by his court, remits ^^ dilecto filio nostro Jacobo de San- 
dylandis militi, et Johanne spons» suae, filise nostrse karrissimae, 
and to their lawful heirs, in perpetuum, the feudal casualty pro 
Castriwarda Baroniae de Caldoure," and by another original do- 
cument, dated 7th February 1404, James Sandilands, the ances- 
tor of this family, is styled the king's nephew, his mother, the 
princess Johanna, being the sister of Robert III. The former Sir 
James, in right of his mother, Elionora, only sister of William, 6rst 
Earl of Douglas, became heir general of the Douglasses. Be- 
tween her and her first husband, the Earl of Carrick, there was 
no surviving issue, so that at the death of the children of the above 
Earl William without issue, his immediate line became extinct; 
and, as James Sandilands, by his wife, Elionora, the only sister of 
Earl William, had a son James^ this son became heir-at*]aw, and 
heir of all the family estates destined to heirs general. The noble 
family of Torphicben thus became heirs-general, as they still are, 
of this distinguished House of Douglas, whose arms they have in- 
variably borne in memory of their descent. The arms of Sandi- 
lands, together with the chief insignia of Douglas, are repeatedly 
sculptured, in the fifteenth century, upon the ancient parts of the 
church of Calder, and, in one instance, with angels for supporters, 
which likewise marks their connection withthe Knights of St John 
of Jerusalem, as may be seen firom inspection of the Great Seal 
of the Order of the Temple of Jerusalem, as sculptured in 719, 
on which are angels for supporters. From another original docu- 
ment it appears, that Isabel, Countess of Mar, who was heir- at- 
law of the House of Douglas, had obtained possession of the ba- 
rony of Cavers, with some other lands, but that James Sandilands, 
by a deed of King Robert III., endeavoured to prevent her from 
alienating the said barony, which was a very important and valu- 
able portion of the Douglas inheritance ; yet, notwithstanding this 
deed, in which the king styles him " dilecto nepoii meoy' and in 
which the king makes a solemn promise not to permit any part of 
this land to be alienated, it was rendered ineffectual by the supe- 
rior power and influence of the Douglases. Being anxious to se- 
cure the great interests thus vested in the Laird of Calder, in re- 



d64 BDlNBURt}H&HIRE« 

spect of the DougIas''s succession, tbey prevailed on Sir Jamed 
Sandilands to make renunciation of his birth-right, which came to 
be vested in George Douglas, Earl of Angus, who, accopding to 
Mr Riddell, a most accurate antiquarian, was the illegitimate son 
of Margaret, Countess of Marr and Angus. This formal renun- 
ciation was sanctioned by the interposition of the King, on the 9th 
November 1398; and a charter of confirmation was passed to that 
efiFect.* 

But what elevated this noble family, and raised them to the 
peerage, was the acquisition of the great estates of the Knights 
Hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem by a younger son, to whom 
they succeeded as his heirs-at-law, he having left no issue to the 
principal stem. To perceive the steps by which they rose to this 
eminence, it will be necessary to take a short survey of the two 
distinguished orders of religious knighthood. Sir James Sandi- 
lands, one of the ancestors of this noble family, was the last Grand 
Master of the Knights Hospitallers, or Knights of St John of 
Jerusalem, afterwards of Rhodes and of Malta. They were also 
called Friars Hospitallers, or simply Hospitallers. Be&ides these, 
there was another order of knighthood, tlie Knights Templars, or 
Knights of the Holy Sepulchre. 

From MSS. in the Torphichen charter-chest, it appears that 
the order of the Knights Hospitallers was instituted in 1099. 
Their dress was a black mantle, with a white cross on the left 
breast. The order of the Templars was instituted about 1119^ 
This order, to distinguish them from the other, adopted a white 
mantle as their dress, as an emblem of innocence, with a red cross 
on the breast, as a symbol of willing martyrdom. From being 
milites togati, both orders thus became milites armati, and vowed 
to defend with their swords that religion which they had formerly 
guarded by their prayers. At first they became glorious in arms, 
and then rich in revenues. The Templars, according to the book 
of Cupar, and also the annals of Scotland, were seated in this 
country as early as the time of David L, 1153, when they formed 
a settlement on the South Esk, in Mid- Lothian; but the chief 
residence of the Hospitallers was at Torphichen, in Linlith- 
gowshire, and the time of their first settlement is uncertain. 
Although at first the Templars consisted only of nine indivi- 
duals, they afterwards increased, both in wealth and in num- 

* See Riddell's remarks on the Scotch Peerage Law, p. 161, 209; also his Tracts* 
Legal and Hutorical, p. 223. 



MID-CALDER. 335 

bers. As individuals they retained their vow of poverty ; but 
their vow was but a cozenage of the world. They had rich pa- 
laces and revenues, and nineteen thousand manors in Christen- 
dom, belonging to their order. Vice, the almost invariable attend- 
ant upon luxury, may have corrupted them to a certain extent; 
but it is more than probable that the avarice of the sovereign Pon- 
tifiF, and of bis coadjutor, Philip the Fair of France, who hated 
the Templars, was the true cause of their being suppressed. On 
5th October 1307, the Knights Templars thnmghout the whole 
of Europe were seized and imprisoned, and, after being tried for 
capital crimes, were condemned, and many of them put to death. 
All their wealth and vast domains were confiscated, and bestowed 
on the sovereigns in whose dominions they lay, or were given to their 
rivals, the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, afterwards of Malta, 
and to such persons as were in favour with the sovereign Pontiff. 
In Germatiy, England, and Scotland alone they were treated 
with humanity. Thus fell this once powerful and illustrious order 
of the Knights Templars, who, in virtue of their own sovereignty, 
when in their f^ill vigour, were subject to no secular power, were 
freed from all taxes, could witness in their own cause, and whose 
very houses possessed the right of sanctuary. In Scotland theic 
estates and revenues were transferred to the Knights Hospitallers. 
In this way Sir James Sandilands, second son of Sir James San- 
dilands of Calder, having succeeded Sir Walter Lindsay as pre- 
ceptor of the order of St John of Jerusalem, in Scotland, in 1538^ 
obtained possession of the vast wealth and revenues belonging to 
that order. But, although the lands of the Templars were given 
to their rivals the Hospitallers, they still retained the name of the 
terrcB templaricB — the Temple-lands ; and in time this name 
was given also to the estates of' the Hospitallers. An abstract 
of the charters, and other papers recorded in the Chartulary of 
Torphichen, from 158] to 1596, extending to upwards of !\0 
quarto pages, was printed at Edinburgh, 18^0, by its possessor, the 
late Mr Robert Hill, W. S., for private circulation. Sir Walter 
Lindsay kept a regular rental of all the lands, patronages, tithes, 
feu-duties, &c, belonging to this preceptory; and the last minute 
of his hand-writing, subjoined to said rental, bears date 26th 
August 1539; and annexed is a note, in the hand-writing of his 
immediate successor. Sir James Sandilands, viz. — " This rental 
is Schir Valter Lyndsea'shande-wryt, and syo his decese vas never 
alterit, nor lang time afor." Signed, James Sandilands of Tor- 
phichen. 



366 EDINBURGHSHrRE. 

It appears that this Sir James had resided for several years at 
Malta ; and, being esteemed as a young man of excellent talent 
and good education by Sir Walter Lindsay, Lord St John, be was 
elected by the Grand Prior and his Chapter to be one of the 
knights of that ancient military order, and was thus appointed 
successor to Sir Walter, at whose death he was invested with the 
title, power, and jurisdiction of Lord St John of Jerusalem in 
Scotland, and in all the rights and revenues belonging to that 
order. Independent of what the Hospitallers obtained from the 
estates of the Templars, it appears, from the register of the Great 
Seal, Book 12, No. 51, that James IV. conferred on them a va* 
riety of other grants and privileges, which bad been bestowed upon 
them by former kings. In the above charter the hospital of Je* 
riisalem, from which the name is derived, is called Torfichin; and 
the head of the order is styled Preceptor of Torfichin. 

Having, at the time of the Reformation, in 1560, renounced 
Popery, and abjured the tenets of his order as Master of the Hos* 
pitallersin Scotland, Sir James Sandilands embraced the Protest- 
ant religion, and was among the first to receive the sacrament of 
the Lord's Supper from the hands of John Knox, in the great 
hall of Calder House, according to the Protestant form. As a 
necessary consequence of the Reformation, the ecclesiastical rights 
of the Hospitallers were suppressed ; but Sir James having re- 
signed the lordship of St John into the hands of Queen Mary, her 
Highness was graciously pleased, in consideration of his great 
merit and services, to grant to him and his heirs, on payment of 
10,000 crowns of the sun,* and 500 merks feu-duty yearly, the 
whole possessions which had belonged to the order, together with 
the accompanying dignity of a Lord of Parliament. He thus pur- 
chased the estates of both orders; and a charter was granted 
thereto, in which he is specially designated Lord St John, but 
which title he subsequently exchanged for that of Lord Torphi- 
chen. These lands were afterwards erected into the temporal 
lordship of Torphichen, by a charter under the Great Seal, 24th 

* At the time. of the Reformation, 20 crowns of the sun were equal to L.26, 8s. 
Soots. This appears from the treasurer's accounts of the town of Edinburgh finr 
1559-60, when the following entry occurs :— 20th September, ane precept to pay to 
Robert Watson 20 crowns of the soune, to be deliyerit to him, to Jhone Wiliochis, 
26tb. Ids. 4d. The writer has to thank the Rev. Or Lee for this extract and expla- 
nation ; and he further states, that a pound ScoU was, at that time, nominally about 
one-fourth of the yalue of a pound Sterling ; but, in Scotland, a pound Scots would 
purchase as large a quantity of the necessaries of life as a pound Sterling would do 
in England. 



MID-CALDER. 867 

January 1563. The original charter in his person carries the ba- 
ronies of Torpbichen, Listen, Ballintrodo, Thankerton, Denny, 
Maryculter, &c., with all their superiorities, pre-eminences, dig- 
nities, and offices, possessed *^ tanquam preceptores de Torphi- 
chen/' by this charter, the family of Sandilands became heredi- 
tary Peers of Parliament ; but, as the ancient honour was never 
personal, but had been attached to the JUf by immemorial usage, 
like the earldom of Arundel in England, which is vested in 
the inheritance of the Castle and Lordship of Arundel ; so the 
title of Torphichen thus became a territorial honour, declared, by 
an act of Charles L, to subsist in the mean portion of the mes- 
suage of the Lordship and Barony of Torphichen. The Barony, 
in this manner, carries the Peerage along with it \ and the re- 
mainder of this property has therefore still been retained by this 
noble family. According to Mr Riddell, the author already re- 
ferred to, from whose researches several of these facts respecting 
this family have been selected, this barony, by the charter of 1563, 
is destined to heirs and assigns ; and, in the event of that succes- 
sion opening to a female, that female would be Baroness of Tor- 
phichen. From Spottiswood's *^ Religious Houses," under the 
article Torphichen, it appears that the Provincial Grand Master 
of the order of the Hospitallers in Scotland was a title of high ho- 
nour. With us he bore the dignity of Prior, Master, or Precep- 
tor of Torphichen, or Lord of St John. In England, the Prior, 
or head of the Hospitallers, sat in Parliament as Premier Baron ; 
and the Prior in Scotland, as head of these orders, and in right of 
his Barony of Torphichen, in Linlithgowshire, the original seat 
and patrimony of the knights in Scotland, sat in Parliament alter- 
nately among the territorial barons and dignified clergy. In 1489, 
Lord St John held the place of Premier Baron immediately after 
the earls ; and, in 1526, he is classed among the abbots and friars 
as a dignitary of the church. In the decreet of ranking of the 
nobility 1606, he is placed next to the Lord Boyd. 

John Spottmoood. — Another person of distinguished merit con- 
nected with this parish was Mr John Spottiswood, parson of Cal- 
der-Comitis, or Mid-Calder, and one of the superintendents of 
the church, an office which was not intended to be permanent, but 
designed merely as a temporary expedient to assist in the planting 
of new churches, in consequence of the great scarcity of Presby- 
terian ministers, for the supply of new erections and vacant charges. 
This was a very laborious duty, superintendents being required to 



868 EDINBURGHSHIHE. 

preach thrice every week, and to remain in no place more than 
twenty days, till they had passed through the whole bounds of 
their visitation. Mr Spottiswood is represented as a pious and 
learned nian, and possessed of singular endowments. Being a de- 
scendant of the lairds of Spottiswood in the Merse, he was the 
chief of that ancient family. His father's name was William. He 
was distinguished for his military prowess, and fell at the battle of 
Flodden Field. He himself was educated at the College of Glas- 
gow, and was designed for the Church. During his residence in 
England, he became familiarly acquainted with Archbishop Cran- 
mer, who confirmed him in his resolution of adhering to the study 
of theology. Having returned to his own coimtry, he obtained 
an introduction, through the Earl of Glencairn, to Matthew, Earl 
of Lennox, who afterwards employed him on a mission to Henry 
Vni. of England ; and, on his return to Scotland, being known 
to Sir James Sandilands of Calder, at that time a person of great 
authority, he was prevailed on to accept of the parsonage of Cal- 
der, which, at the beginning of the Reformation, was then void. 
In 1560, he was appointed superintendent of Lothian, Merse, and 
Teviotdale, the duties of which oflBce he discharged during a pe- 
riod of twenty years. In reality he exercised the powers and ful- 
Blled the duties of a bishop merely under a different name ; for it 
was not so much the oflBce as the name to which the first Reform- 
ers felt an aversion ; and in the discharge of this sacred function 
he continued, with the approbation of all good men, till the lime 
of his death, although his parishioners frequently complained in 
vain that they were deprived of their pastor.^ 

Another still more eminent individual connected with this parish 
was John Spottiswood, afterwards Archbishop of St Andrew's, 
the superintendent's son. He was a native of this parish, and was 
born in 1565; and, in 1585, he succeeded his father as minister 
of Calder- Comitis, having been employed as his father's assistant 
when he was only eighteen years of age. In 1601, he attended 
the Duke of Lennox as his chaplain on an embassy to the court 
of Henry IV. of France; and, on the succession of James VL to 
the crown of England, he was called to his service ; and James 
Beaton, Archbishop of Glasgow, dying, his Majesty not only pre« 
ferred him to that see, but, on account of his great prudence and 
distinguished talents in civil matters, he admitted him to be one 
of his Privy Council in Scotland ; and in this capacity he was sent 
to England, and appointed almoner to Queen Anne. At the time 



MID-GALDER. 869 

of his instalment to the office of Archbishop of Glasgow, the re- 
venue of that high office did not exceed L«100 Sterling per an- 
num. In 1605, he was advanced to the metropolitan see of St 
Andrew's, and thus became primate of all Scotland. In using his 
best endeavours to recover some portions of the church's patri- 
mony, he is said to have made nearly fifty journeys from Scotland 
to London. With James I. he was in great favour, and he was the 
person who crowned Charles I., as King of Scotland, in the abbey 
church of Holyrood. In 1635, he was promoted to the office of 
chancellor ; but, in consequence of the civil war, he was soon after 
obliged to retire to England, where,, after a short time of grief and 
trouble, he expired in 1639. Before he expired, he made a con- 
fession of his faith of the apostle's creed ; and, touching the go- 
vernment of the church, he considered Episcopacy the only right 
and apostolic formj-^parity among ministers being a breeder of 
confusion. 

He compiled an excellent history of the Church of Scotland, 
in which there is much curious and interesting matter, from the 
year 1203 to the termination of the reigo of James VI. 

Ministers of the PartjA.-— Our parish records are silent as to the 
person who succeeded the superintendent and his son in this cure ; 
but from the synod and session records it appears that Mr William 
Burnet was minister here in 1691. He was succeeded by Mr 
John Lookup in January 1698 ; who seems to have been a per- 
son of very respectable talent, a;id of no inconsiderable literary 
attainments. Mr James Watson was admitted in 1759; and Dr 
Dobie, afterwards minister of Linlithgow, succeeded him in 1773. 
Being promoted to the cure of the parish of Linlithgow, he was 
succeeded by Dr Wilson in 1792. In 1793, Dr Wilson was 
translated to the parish of Falkirk. In 1795, Dr John Sommers 
was admitted to the office of minister in this parish. He wrote 
a few articles in the *^ Encyclopaedia Edinensis," of which he was 
the proprietor, and of the last three volumes of which he was also 
the editor. 

Heritors. — Lord Torphichen is the principal heritor, and 
the undoubted patron of the church and parish of Mid-Calder. 
The rental of the parish, in Scots money, is as under ; and those 
who pay stipend to the minister are as follows : 

Lord Torphichen, for barony of Calder, . LJM66 5 10 Soott. 

Mrs Hay Primrose, Linbouse, now Burnbrae, 557 2 11 

Earl of Buchan, Pumpherston, , . 406 18 4 

William Bruce, Esq., Aldetstone, 964 

EDINBURGH. A a 



230 18 


6 


152 





141 11 





138 10 


. 


151 8 


7 


102 6 


8 


102 5 


3 


87 10 





81 





86 





29 10 





22 10 





17 6 


6 


12 





8 11 


5 



370 EDINBURGHSHIRE. 

Alexander Young, Esq., Camilty, 

Heirs of Thomas Hardy, Esq., Charlesfield, 

James M. Hog, Esq., Murieston, 

Robert Downie, Esq., East Cairns and East Colzium, 

John Keir, Esq., WestSeld and Wester Murieston, 

Earl of Rosebery, Alder&tone Mains, 

Archibald Bruce, Esq., Bankton, 

Mrs White, Hovden, 

Rev. Dr Laird, West Cairns and West Colaium, 

Earl of Morton, Harperrig, 

John Graham, Wester Causeyend, 

William, Auld, Esq., Howden Park, 

Miss Horsburgh, New Park, 

John Davie Martin, Esq., part of Charlesfield, 

Robert Bauchop, Esq., Muirhouses, • 

L.5157 10 

The present rental, including the feus, is about L.7000 ; and 
several of the properties have doubled, and some have trebled the 
rental in pounds Sterling, corresponding to the original valuation 
in Scots money. 

Besides these, there are several other small properties, which 
pay a trifling portion of stipend, but are subject to no other pub- 
lic burdens. 

Parochial Registers. — The parochial register, containing the 
dates of baptisms and marriages, with the contributions and dis- 
bursements for the poor, and all the other acts of the kirk-session, 
commences ^7th July 1604; but in several places it is imperfectt 
to 8th November 1691. Fr