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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I ^ ^ 9i J ( THE NEW STATISTICAL A C C C OF SCOTLAND VOL. II. I I i 4 STATISTICAL AC( SCOTLAN] THE UlNISTEBS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISH 3UPERINTBNDENCB OF A COMMITTEE OP T FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS DAUOHTERS OF THE CLEBOT. VOL. II. imLITHGOW-HAIDISGTON-BEBS WILLIAM BLACKWOOD Al EDINBURGH AND LONDC MDCCCXLV. / ! I • • • ••• • • » • • ' . • • . • « • I . t J , LINLITHGOW i 1 A i f CONTENTS. ABBRCOBN, BATHGATE, BORROWSTOWNNBSSy CARRIDBN, DALMBNY, ECCLBSMACHAN, LINUTHGOW, LIYIKOSTONE, QUEBNSFERRY, TORPHICHBN, UPHALL, WHITBURN, ^ ^ PARISH OF QUEENSFERR PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & 1 THE REV. THOMAS DIMMA, A. M., MINIS I. — Topography and Natural Histor' Boundaries* — Tuis parish, which comprehends the is bounded on the north by the Frith of Forth, and else by the parish of Dalmeny. In the town, but royalty, there are 422 inhabitants, and at New-Halls census 1841. Climate^ 8fc. — In winter the thermometer ranges 15^ In November 1830 it was 32^ at the lowest, an lowing January at 23°. The barometer is not subjc than the usual variations. The Frith opposite the town is about a mile ar breadth. The tide rises 18 feet at the harbour mouth, is shallow on the southern shore; but the depth is gre Fife side, where in the fair- way between the island I and the Battery Point, the bottom has been found with fathoms. At certain seasons, after floods occasioned snow or falls of rain, the saltness of the water is much by the volume of fresh water carried down by the F< tributary streams. The town is supplied with water collected in an art voir, very liberally formed, at the expense of the Earl o in the year 1819. This has proved an unspeakable a the town. During the great drought of last summei reservoir was nearly emptied, the burgh laid outupwan in heightening the embankment, and thereby greatly the supply of water. At the original formation of th the town expended L. 200. The houses in the centre of the town are founded o which extends to the foot of the rising ground or brae^ tom of which the town is built. In the west and eas sandstone appears, which dips to the north witK ^ ^ LINLITHGOW. K 2 LINLITIIGOWSI angle of depression. In digging the fr in the churchyard, sea-shells are founc whole site of the town has been reclai I i II. — Civil Hij There is no complete account of th- ' lar notice, though there is an anonymc 1726, arising out of some disputes b the clergyman of the time, which of interest connected with the erect io the minister, &c. Some document representative of the ancient family show, in 1689, the state of the water ty-two shares, among twelve shareho petition, printed in 171ft, and presents Burghs, setting forth the great distre the failure of trade, pressure of taxati( Halls, and the quartering of soldiers returning from it. At a very early period, the spot ^ much frequented, as the most conve narrow strait which separates the c( i Fife. At a remote era, it was denom Romans, about the year a. d. 83, pern I lakes, and forests in the neighbourh discoveries made of bones, funeral ur i mediate neighbourhood, point it out between the original inhabitants anc || near the course of the Roman wall, I this may well account for the importai On the conquest of England by tt rious fugitives escaped* to Scotlani Atheling^ heir of the Confessor's rac a most beautiful and accomplished named Cean Mohr, married this prir ward of the town a spot favourable Port Edgar,* and some rocks, from vi tomed to pass to the opposite shores I • » * George 1 V. emiMu-ked at Port Edgar on t England. He wai accompanied tkom Hopetoun ^1 toun. At the Hune pier, on Uie Itt October 18t / I tinsuished earl were landed from His Mi^etty' I amidft the regrets of the whole nation. ■I QUEGNSFERRY. uses or graves ience that the sea. ng of particu- f bearing date igistrates and LIS particulars , provision for hands of the : Craigiehall, ided into thir- is likewise a iition of Royal on account of ailors to New- north, and in 1 is built was r crossing the Lothian from ^ansitusy as the s the marshes, ven. Various town and im- of 6erce strife and as it lay nus, A. D. 140, sarly acquired. • D. 10669 va- these Edgar ter, Margaret, :olm III., sur- To the West- on was called (en was accus- i low Latin of % on his return to the Earl of Hope- ;he gallant and dU* risk, from France, the time, Pasaagium ReffintSy and in the vulgar to or the Queen's- Ferry^ by which name it was then was formerly a house on the beach, near some called the Binks, which, it is understood, was buil accommodation while waitinor the arrival of her b posite shore, on her way to Dunfermline, the royi much attached to this princess were the inhabitan mark was cut out in the solid rock ; and some ol speak of it as being in existence in the recoUectio inhabitants. In a charter of Malcolm IV. the town was cs ffiruBj who granted a free passage to the monks of twfi Reginat. Pope Gregory, in 1234, conGrm« of Dunfermline, dimidium passoffice sancice Ma This was also granted to the abbey of Dunfermlii regranted by Robert III., and confirmed by Jai At the Reformation this right was disposed of sixteen shares.; but there is evidence on record sold eighteen-sixteenths. Though a port so early as Malcolm IV., it burgh in 1556, when a tax was levied on royal bi cured a charter of erection into a free royal burg erection was much opposed by Linlithgow, whic by some degrading concessions. It appears to \n sentative to Parliament in 1639. Under the L privilege of choosing a representative to Parlian Stirling, Inverkeithing, Culross, and Dunfermlin council consists of twenty-one, of whom two-third merchant sailors, and three were deacons of crafts of persons residing within the royalty, whose rent tenantry amount to L. 10, are 20; and in the e there are 10 persons resident rated at the same a; The parish was an erection from Dalmeny, in ratified by Act of Parliament 1641, at which seems to have acquired considerable importa quence of its commercial intercourse with Hoi time it possessed nearly twenty great ships, wit ing vessels of a smaller size. A church was on the ruins of a very ancient chapel. Sc bear the date of 1685, and one, apparently of a 1 riod. The magistrates and town-council are patro 4 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. The length of llie town does not Gxtend to on ■ind its breadtli to a few hundred ynrd.". hounded by one row of houses on the noril several closes, as they are called, extend bad is flat and sandy, except on the east and w< rocks extend a considerable way into the sea ridge the harbour is formed. The rude erect has been replaced by a very substantial pier under the directions of Mr Stevenson, civil eoj Parochial Uffjiiters. — The parochial registei to the present time. The first entry in the n 1635. and in that of marriages, 1635. They . but have been regularly kept, though ilie regis pears, with a few exceptions since the commenc sion, to conlHil) only llie names of those connec Wished Church.' — " At QucinsfiT chnpG of Kilinbuit. came jsitFra tn the al cunsccniion of jr new necl it church jr, and foradniiin'ng c ininitter yno. living the first man ;■ wu prewnlil to jt pir Mr David hi* eirtrie in the loun, he went li; the (ileip) wi the kirk, ^Ik wai then iockii. qre iDptt him, Rot Dauli peeaent baillin, aecoinpaniet wt the biill honneit mea of t David drmandinic (he baillin and the reit of the campanie had build that hous, vha re|ilyit onlie to the glorje of God, ■ in tockin ytot ihey did render him. Thii bring dune, and laid biichopc did uceiid the pulpit, and jairafter pnnr on he maid chois of bii leit furib of . tfk on Kcratiun of the church, and niit to the admiaiune of the aal being endil, liro childrene war bapIiEil. jt on to Galhin 871 and uthr to Andro Hulton, namil George. Aftet tfaii the to ane sent before the pulpit, qr he did demand furth of the ■ueh and luch queiiionis ni concernit the adminioun of 1 divyne calling and repljia war maid be the aaid Mr Rot celebrat. Qlk endil and a'aaline lung, the compaoie, than ; '.' AtQueiufcrTieiAugtul 23,1635, — Thequhilk daj etWeii roinitter at South Quein>rciric. accompaniet with Ibe wbotl burij. ind than did nominat and choiiit the pcrioiii* folloi eldart wlhn tlic uiid paroch, tii. Ac. &c. Upon the aamc da} forme cftient oftbe wwione that Ihe diit'f place wthin th« t for the baitliei and enunsillort. Alw it waa qipojntil that Dur daika within the kirk, hot all pewia - • ■• Septembei 6, 1635.— The qlk da^ »M<»iebeInginMt,il Dallinfi. eldar, ahould keip ihe kirk boi, and Robert Dallii tliould keip the kejii fbi the flnt qrter. Upon tbe aamc c whauocTer pertonii war buikil for the perforuiance of matri' wlb auScient eaGnen that tbe; ahould perfi>rnic and ac in fouriic dajei, under the paine of fourtf ponndia, Opon /* danil Ibnt quhaaocrer ahould defjle the martiag b«d befora poundii Scottiah moey , and that to be coiignit bafbir Ibair m dalnJt that qtioinever peraonia ahould bulk Ibarotelfla to pet QUKENSFERHY. ' of a mile, one street, the south The shore J ledt^es of he western I early time rbour, built I from 1635 baptisms is 'oluminous, aptisms a|>- ►f the seces- 1 the Esta- t, schoolmaster, ly, seconnd his- iferrie, for the «rt Gibbisone, after the said s the doore of i^ot Hili than The said Mr rhat end ihey worshipc, and id oppine, the d salme sung, to the con- >ert. Sermon amit Edward, >pe dischendit ord (ination) If Rot., to yt k iinischit be 1*8 supper was ed for the for- lert Gibbisone, len of the said ! deaconis and )Oyntit be unt- •uld be applyit lid be no seats int that James avid Wilsone, ordainit that >uld marriag wth- day it was or- should pay six 1 1 was also er- rand of matri* Emintnt Men, — It is not known that anv individu note have been connected with this parish. Mr Kid, nister from 1710 to 1743, was much distinguished a divine, and one of the twelve brethren who, in 172? representation lo the Assembly respecting the act pj demnation of the Marrow of Modern Divinity. Th< this individual at the time of the communion attracted the most distant parts of the country. By the sess appears that 60C communicants were sometimes ass mooie, saU pay to the reidar threttein shillingis four penneis. It ' that thes personis sail give to the beddell the day of thair marriag ordanit that the personis qusomevar that ir to be merriet sail cd< of 20 mek Sjottis mdy in cace that thair exceid ten shillings 1 aucht for the woman, and if so be the act be transgrest the m5ey sail liox. ft was also ordanit that at baptisme the father of the chykl sal dar aucht shillings and to the beddell four shillings. It w qusumever persone sail depart this lyf above ten yeires sal beddell ten shillings, and under ten yeircs six shillings aucht pc for the making of the graves. It was also ordanit that everi pecially the man, sail pay to our box for his trespas the suwm of the woman four poQds, and the relaps ever to be redowblit totles also ordanit that qtsomever pers6ni?» sail break the Sabbath day by ta or small boot to pass thi*t ferrie, from the rysing of the sune to the 1 day, thes personis sail be fyuit for the first fault in twelf shillings ! and if they suU fall in the saro fault againe, they sail stand at our ki cloth, and mak ane cofcssione of thair fault before the co^regane. danit that if the master of the bootis sail give thair cosent to the bo^ pay fyve pounds toticw quoties. It was also ordanit that qtsumevi bell drink upon the Sabbath day in tym of divyne service, sail be fyni lings. It was also ordanit qtsumever browster salbe found earing t hour upon sail be fynit in fourtie shillings Scottis. It \ that qtsumever personis salbe found out of our kirk in tyme of div be fynit in aucht shillingis. It was also ordanit that qt sumever pers salbe found bearing bur-n upon the Sabbath day within the tymes lit nott l>e able to pay fourtie shillings, yitt sail mak satisfactione at th< cording to the sessionis injunctione.*' ** September 13, 16.*i5 — The qlk day sessione being mett, Bessie 1 callit and compeirit, acknowledgit hirself to be wth chyld to David C onlanit that both pties should be warnit heir against this day aucl the ^am day it was ordanit that Mr James LevingJttone should be re kirk, so that he and our session can aggrie under sufficient t stit (ute) in his place ane copleit deputy heir to serve upon the Sal noone.** (Date omitted,) probably 20th September 1635 ^^ The qlk day sess callit and compeirit Bessie Howisone, cOfessit she was wth chyld to J —the said David callit and cdpeirit, cofessit kopelane wth the said Be it was ordanit that the man sould pay six poundis, and the woman fc to enter to the publick plac« of repentance, and to that effect Thorn come caune for the man, and William Thomptone for the woman.*^ ** November 8, 1635 —The qlk day cdvenit, Mr Robert Gibbisone, r Queinsferrie, being accompaniet wth the deaconis, eldars, and sessl sent, — after due deliheratne and advyse, all of them than present, ot and free will, wthout any costranit or copulsione, did codisceud all t should be joynit in wth thair kirk-box, to remaine thair for intertai affaires belonging to the kirk, and uther pious usss ; and this to be d cming. Protesting that out of gud coscience tbay war movit thairt thairof, and for gud exmple, James Hill, skippar, gave in 19 rex doll iirch Logy, skippary gave in 5 rex dollers to the kirk-bAv«* \ LtNI.ITlICOWSHI \ I - s. f \ i \ \ - J ■\ : * v. » ?! \ ^. that twenty-two pints of claret and eig used. Antiquities. — The burgh has no anei« west end of the town the Carnaelite chur gin, is deserving of notice. It was built ancient family of Dundas of Dundas, a extent and revenues are now unknown. the burial-place of the family, whose n vault under the place where stood the hi tomb, formed by the present proprietor. time to time, from the hostile commoti( country. It was injured by the cannon of the Commonwealth, as there are ball families, which tradition mentions as ha the cannonade had ceased. In the year ened to be plundered by the Highlande inburgh, but the Happy Janet, a ship ( prevented their designs being carried in There are some good houses in thi the Vaults. The church is a plain bui was fitted up with very great neatness ai upwards of L.500. It has an excellent I brought from Holland, at the erection c following inscription : " Soli Deo gloria keit, David Jonking, maerchant of Edi! the kirk of the Queensferrie. Cursed there. Anno domino 1635." It has a council- room, in which the magistratei despatch of business. III. — POPULAI The population, as given in to Dr Webster, ' in 1791, 1801, 1821, 1831, 1841. In 1831, there were 313 males, and ( 339 males, and 382 females, in 169 fa IV. — Industi No attempt hitherto made to suppl hood with white fish has proved success they are brought here in boats from tl vera! persons, who carry on a profitabh 1 QUUBNSFKRUY. loave s were ; but in the I to the Vir- I by the very r ia-30. lu to this- time ^posited in a low in a new uSered from ailed in the in the time :sionof some ked up after 1 was threat- larch to £d- )ff the town, lat is called he year 1821 e expense of shipmasters It has the ?erhuys me- this bell to takes it frae bells, and a leet for the d in 1841, neighbour- mer months Fife, by se- article. In winter, it is very mortifying to see the* London fish ted with wells, carrying off numerous cargoes of co ern markets, while our own tishermen only occasioi gaged in the herring -fishery, employ a line or two pose with very indifferent success. To the westwa a salmon- fishery has been established, which has b very successfully by its present tenant, Mr M* Quee are employed, in which, particularly in the monti August, great numbers of salmon, grilses, and sea tr They are regularly sent to the Edinburgh market the demand in the neighbourhood. The herring-fishery is the principal employment ants during the winter months. Masons, quarriei gular fishermen, are occupied from the end of Nc beginning of March in this very useful and profit industry. It commenced in the year 1792, opposi in St Margaret's Hope, Inverkeithing Bay, &c. it has been carried on with various degrees of succ< period of the fishery was more successful than ii During the war, the prices were high, and several c in the trade, and so many as 600 barrels were |>ort. In 1831, which was a very abundant fii 1500 barrels were cured ; but the curers, unable t( carters, who came from all quarters of the country * herrings, could take advantage of those days only vv exceeded the demand. Forty or fifty carts were f tendance, carrying away from 6000 to 12000 each, ried from 6d. to Is. 6d. per 100. The curers sel at a higher price than 7s. the cran or barrel. Tl boats belonging to the town, carrying each four or fi^ nished generally with twelve nets, fifty yards long an< deep. But the boats employed in the fishery fror Fisherrow, Prestonpans, Cellardykes, Buckhaven, I to about 50 or 1 00 ; the greater part of these discharj at this port. This occasions a considerable bustl and is a principal source of revenue, each boat pay in cart 6d. When the curing goes forward briskly, abou are employed in preparing the herring for the barre duty, when cured on the pier, of 4d., and in the p< who are expert in the business can easily earn 2s. Though this trade is most beneficial to the count r 8 L1.NLITHGOWSI not favourable to tlie nioratity of th spirits is greatly increased, and ihe ir of the most exemplary character, cast ring season wliich is most injurious ti year 1831, the fishery of herrings ba sionally, some good seasons have oc( have been very unproductive. For herring- season, immense shoals of ga rings, have ap|>eared off the town an< an eiceilent article of food, and hav tions of the fishermen when in demar has often interfered, tmder the idea t t with small meshes, is injurious to the to be wished that this matter were se ermen to pursue their avocations. Tl ji herrings, but they are a mere fractia ^ that fill the water. ;■ A number of females are very profi F months in spinning bemp for neli<, w f the family (boys and girls) work up < !'. pedition. A net when finished is wo f genious individual, Mr Paterson, one j! moved to his manufactory in Mussell P at L.2, 10a., by the aid of machine ., an astonishing degree of perfection. (^ boats of larger size, from the end of . j tember, are employed in the nonh( boat engaging with the ciirers, to fur rels, fur which they receive 7s. or 8s., But (hey arc not always able to comp the young men also, from time to lime, ■ fishery, though misfortune and want o rather deterred them from engaging i they generally engage in the coaslin^ engaged in the North American woo The manufacture of soap was foi skill,'and on a great scale, in this to' employing about thirty or forty men, L.800()orL.10,000peraDnum. But been experienced here, as well as in o seven years there has been only one e QUEENSFERUY. ' ardent sneraliy ;he ber* ice the Occa* al, thej in the ng her- hey are e exer- Fishery wl net, s much le fish- young ^arvies Limmer bers of ud ex- I an in* ow re- 1 then) ight to 5 a few 3f Sep- ^ each »0 bar- er sum. L few of whale- rs have ^e, and vessels 1 great • works duty of le have he last )loying three or four men, and this also has for several years I tinned. The trade is precarious, and far from lucra workmen make good wages, and, as the business is at \ ducted, the morals of those engaged do not suffer. There are no vessels belonging to the port, though a ing ship property resides here. The foreign trade is on, though various coasting- vessels from time to time with barley f9r the distillery here and at Kirklis coals used by the inhabitants are nearly all sea-borne, winter months, some farmers in the country have been tice of shipping potatoes for the London markets, and the course of the season cargoes of rape-cake, drain- Sec. A few carrroes of stones are also sent to different an excellent freestone quarry at Humbie, about three m V. — Parochial Economy. The situation of Queensferry is favourable for con with the metropolis and the northern parts of the kingi water passage is admirably managed. The great nortl in the very best state of repair, while that to Edinburg exceeded in excellence. This was the first turnpike ra Lothian, formed in the year 1751. There is a post-offi( the mail arrives from Edinburgh at half-past 6 a.m., anc from the north at 5 a. m. and 8 p. m. There are iwo co leave the town each morning for Edinburgh, and re evening. At various times in the day there are four ot which pass to and from the north. On the opening c burgh and Glasgow Railway, in February 1842, a mi ed to join it at the Winchburgh station. It was discoi iug the winter, and has not yet been resumed. There is much obscurity about the establishment c passage. It was once private property, and appears t( attached to the lands of Muiryhall, consisting of seve in the immediate vicinity of the town. These were, ed, a donation from Queen Margaret, for supporting There were formerly two classes of proprietors ; the shares, and the holders of boats and yawls. A chang in 1784, when the whole boats were purchased by the i and let by annual roup. They were kept in a state pair, and the arrangements devised by th^ proprietors diciously carried into effect, that the interests of the as well consulted as circumstances would ^eKKv\\v. 10 LINLITHGOW the piers and ftliipjiings was, hove way of comfort. Those on the sout very ruinous condition, and at certaii and inconvenience were esperieiiceti (lassengers. This stale of things continued till was felt to improve the water passage of management, and making such ch tance demanded. An application 1609, rendered necessary by the fol there were no suitable piers, — no su| the North Ferry, where all the boatm wharfs, unconnected with thepassage,- piers so incomplete, as to admit of ' hours in each tide. The rates and i and the jurisdiction was such, that i compelled to keep the piers in a stat By the act, trustees were nominate ))erson3,viz. the Keeperof the Great i General, Lord Advocate, Lord Jus gister. Lord Chief- Baron, and Vice- uf the Signet, Postmaster- General fo of Perth, Linlithgow, Fife, Kinross, of the Forces, Admiral of Leitb ; Linlithgow, Queensferry, Inverkeithii of the counties ; the proprietor of lb all having L.'200 Scots valuation in trustees to be a quorum ; a committ< of fifteen, who have the power of i trustees, by the act, was committed tb ing'places, purchasinggroundfor boa ries in any common in Fife, on the si between Port Edgar and the Long ( At this time there was only one pi the south, one at New-Halls, the otli tageous, however, as an alteration anc obviously were, there was great and at length was happily overcome. Tl piers were surveyed by tbe celebrated * For the privilege of erecting a pirr tint, L QUEENSPERRY. H the Exchequer agreed to propose to Parliament to advance one- half of the money required for the purchase of shares and the erection of piers, on condition that the other half should be advan- ced by individuals. The sum expended in purchasing the property otthe shareholders, and improvements at the Ferry, amounted to L. 33,824, 14s. Q^d. ; of this, the public paid L. 13,586, J Js. 8d., and there were lent by individuals, in sums of L.500, L.20,238, 3s. l^d. The purchase of the original shares amounted to . L.8673 13 IO4 The North Ferry pier cost . . 4206 19 6 The signal house, . . . 406 10 The superintendent's houiie and garden, . 260 9 1 A stripe of ground leading to the Long Craig, 900 The pier at Port Edgar, 378 feet long, cost 4763 13 10 New- Halls* pier, 722 feet in length, cost . 8696 The small pier at Port Nuick, . . 587 11 11 Land and building six houses, at South Queensferry, 909 U 6 The original funds subscribed being exhausted, there was a se« cond application, in 1812, made to Government, and a new sub- scription. By these means the Long Craig Pier was built;* the small East Battery Pier ; the West Battery Pier on the north side was raised and enlarged ; the North Ferry Pier lengthened, &c. Steam navigation was introduced, and the Queen Margaret put on the passage on October 1st 1821. This caused additional ex- pense in the raising of the piers. To meet this, the sinking fund was pledged, two large sailing boats were put down, and two pin- naces with their crews. The Queen Margaret cost L.2369. Since September 1820, there have been three large sailing boats of the original construction, the Earl of Moray half-tide boat, and three pinnaces. The crews of these, thirty-six men and boys. The hire of a boat, when light, 2s. 6d. ; dark, /vs. Large ditto, light, 5s. ; dark, 6s. Exemptions from the above rates, mail horses or expresses from the post-office ; soldiers on march, horses of officers, ordnance carts, volunteers, if in uniform ; carts carry- ing vagrants with the legal passes. By the act, not more than two- thirds of the boats and yawls to remain at each side. The boat- men are not liable to be impressed. Two superintendents to be appointed. Steam navigation by the Frith and across it, by coaches passing to Burntisland, greatly diminished the number of passengers at this ferry, but in 1811, we have the following account : 228 per- sons crossed each day, and sometimes 447 ; 1515 carriages annu- The long Craig Pier is 1177 feet in leci^Vv. \'2 LINLItHUOWSIII hUv; 4-i54 carts do.; 13,154 horses '25,151 sheep do. ; '55^0 barrel bulk di The expenses of ihe steam*boat per Skipper, Tvuictmen, 18>.. The steam-boat has contributed muc passengers in calm weather and cross « being long on their passage as ihey fori tow by tlic Queen M;irgarct, are scarce sing. There arc twu porters at each side boats are manned by experienced seame navigation, generally regular in their ha tention to passengers. No loss o( a b' than siity years; and this may be con;! gidated ferries in (he kingdom. In Oi choly accident occurred at the Newhal reprehensible practice of driving the c( along the piers, to receive passengers lady aud a female servant were precipi wliicli they had just entered, Into the i ihey could be entricaled. The mothe man had nearly shared (he same fate, will not be speedily forgotten, the prai has been abandoned. Two or three t may be preveuted from crossing by g ry winds, but this very rarely extends present time, 1831, the renUl of Ihe | tium; the tacksmen engaging to keep wages of the men. The harbour of Queensferry was 0Q( tion, bnt is now in a very excellent stat making the recent improvemenis were L.60U from the convention of royal hu noble families in the neighbourhood; from the funds of the burgh, ^ri^ing fr niuir to Dundas of Dundasfor L.16I0. ring-fishery is prosperous, the harbour QDEENSPERRY. cattle do. ; do. allows : modation of 3, instead of ing taken in ites in pas- istees. The ed with the hi their at- d for more he best re- nost melan- the very ater's edge A young coach, into med before id a gentle- day, which on the pier ir the boats or contra- ^. At the ^0 per an- nd pay the nous condi- he funds for itribution of om the two ning L.800 r the Ferry len the her* •d with ves- sels engaged in curing. The dues exigible by the almost the only source of revenue now possesses are let annually by public roup. Since the rem trade, the rental has been gradually falling ofTi ai only to L.80 per annum ; since the erection of i has risen to L. 100. Ecclesiastical State, — The church is placed in t town, and is most convenient for the inhabitants, lent state of repair, and may accommodate abo There are numerous free sittings, more than are i mand. The seats, with the exception of three frc nually let by public roup, under the authority, an< the rangistrates. The rental forms a part of the s is neither manse nor glebe belonging to the miuisi is increased by a Government allowance of L. 49 in lieu of a manse and glebe^ L.50 have been rec< a late act of Parliament. Ministers. — 1. Mr Robert Gibbeson, ordaine 1633, and died in 1641 ; 2. Mr Ephraim Melvi Andrew Melville, ordained 1st September 1641, Livingston, 16.30; 3. Mr John Primrose, ordaine 1652, removed in 1662, by the Indulgence came 1 ferry, and died 28th December 1673. There wc between 1673 and 1690. Of the number, Ar« continued only one year, in 1683. None of t! Most of the number appear to have preached witl: larly inducted. 4. Mr Donald Campbell, transpoi avonside in December 1693, died in 1697 ; 5. M ordained in 1700, and died in the year 1709 ; 6. ordained 28th September 1710, and died 9th 1 7. Mr Archibald M'Aulay, ordained 1746, and Mr John Henderson, ordained 1782, died June Thomas Dimma, ordained 16th November 1820. There is one Dissenting meeting-house here I Associate Synod. The stipend, it is believed, a per annum,. raised from the seat-rents* Familie Established Church, December 1830, HO ; numl the above, 464 ; number attending Dissenters, in lies, 194; Roman Catholics, in three families, h sent time, April 1843, the families attending th* are 111, and the number of persons in these, 446 14 LINLITHGOWB of families, in coonection with Ihe 1 214 persons, of whom 9 are Roman i other religious denominations. Then longing to ihe Established Church. Divine service is well attended hotl and Dissenting congreffation; althouj many connected with each, are eithe negligent in their attendance on ordin ber of regular communicants in the There is a penny a-week Bible society, made in the church, for various religi< which may amount oti an average to L average of the collections made at th' poor fiinds, amounts, for the last ten L.35, but now to about L. 2S. Editcatioit. — There are three sch burgh or parochial, one private and i school. The usual branches are tau| eluding English, writing, arithmetic mathematics, Latin, Greek, and Frei English, writing, and arithmetic; in tl branches of female education, includit salary of the burgh teacher is L.29, with the addition of the school-fees, c of L. 60. The average annual expc irom 10s. to L.l, lOs. The burgh s> ed, and well taught. A new school- for the reception of the pupils, in root the worst in the bounds, while the ne' best in the country. Z/tArartcs.— There is one subscripti 600 volumes, one under Ihe managem congregation of 400 volumes, and oa school, containing 1335 small public This school has been taught by the m. every Sabbath evening, for two hours i of great advantage to the rising gem well attended. The library has been a taste for reading, and storing the mi knowledge. Friendly Societies. — There are tw QUEENSFEHRT. 40, containiog 1 1 1 belong to imunicants be- lished Church -^retted, that or altogether average num- Church is J 'HO. IS are annually able purposes, inually. The in aid of the nnual sum of >wn, viz. the d one female ;h school, in« h geography, rivate school, )l, the various rawing. The inum, which, ke an income e pupil varies *ously attend- early finished le, which was be one of the taining nearly ciate Burgher the Sabbath ;o the young, aty-two years, nd has proved s always been iai in exciting 3g with useful rielies in the town, from which allowances are made during death, the funeral expenses are paid. It is anoti of these, a weekly payment is made of one shilli which is paid out in one sum, half-yearly, at the t rents are due. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average nut lar poor, 16; allowance monthly, from Ss. 6d. door collections, L.85 ; rent of money and land, legacies, mortcloth, and marriage dues, L.5; in just bequeathed by Captain Henry Meek, decei the parish, and now payable, making the allowai on the roll from .3s. 6d. to 8s. per month, also, about twenty children are educated. No been adopted to procure relief for the poor, but of church-door collection. This has hitherto nn without having recourse to assessments. The p have in former times been unusually well provide attentions of various individuals in the respectab death and a change of circumstances this supp much diminished. By a decision of the Court of residing in Queensferry, but in that part of it bel rish of Dalmeny, have been found entitled to sha This adds about *25 persons, who receive an all Meek funds. It has not been found that there \\ tance to apply for parochial relief, though, in n been offered before it was sought. It has ofte observed, that many persons permit their aged r on the poor-roll, which, with a better spirit, they vent The collections at the church-door have minished since the Meek bequest has been < mode of relieving the poor is well deserving those whom Providence has blessed with the me tess of Rosebery gives employment in spinning t industrious females of the town, who are able ti or ds. each month. This produces excellent ef bitants, and induces them to practice a useful ai ters of the country &llen into disuse. There is a jail in the burgh, or rather a lock-i ers are seldom detained beyond a single night, be examination to Linlithgow. The town-officer is jail. 'le I.IKI.1TIIOOWg( Fair. — The annual Fair in August 'a those who only require excitement lo in agreeablejto others whose families are time. A custom hns been observed, fr evening before tlie fair : the boys dress a covering of burs, from head to fool, a and flowers, and conducting him, led b< the town and neighbourhood. They rei the inhabitanls. The origin of this prac Inns, Alehouses, §-c. — There are 1 ini and 4 shops where accommodation The facilities enjoyed here for the t been most prejudicial to the moral'i oft a most frighlful character have occurre the immoderate use of spirits, and thou; both by fire and water, the votaries of c proved nor diminished in number. Th wretchedness originating from this causi by their parents, and families are reduc lute habits of those who ought to provic Coals are brought by sea from Fife, carts. They are seldom furnished at a ton, and sometimes a much higher prii quantities to the poor, the cost is much MlBCELLANEOUS ObSI In the summer months this place is i for sea-bathing and change of air. Tb dually improving, and the delightful wal particularly attractive. Since the date count, the appearance of the town is con ral new houses have been erected, and a ing both to beauty and convenience. SIi description have been established, am country increasing, enables the merchan similar to those in the metropolis, blished here has been discontinued. 1 has been in operation here, under the fi lillery Company. It is on a small seal 2600 gallons weekly ; but, being fitted manner, and skilfully managed, it prodit QUKBN8FERRY. morals of ranee, but ed at that lorial, the nber with h ribbons 9 through ions from pertained, ilehouses, drinking, rits have idents of ear from n deaths ther im- erty and eglected le disso- 5 &c by lOs. per in small by many is gra- render it ical Ac- id ; seve- ontribut* pectable Pom the ces very ng esta- distillery rth Dis- 1700 to ipproved irst qua« Irty. It gives employment to about twenty person considerably to the trade of the port in its imports an< Since June 1838, a new steamer, the William Ada put on the passage, the Queen Margaret having provec to the work required. , The new vessel was built by Menzies, and her engine, of forty horses' power, by 1 Leith. Length, 98 feet, and breadth, 32 feet. She a very superior sea-boat, and renders this ferry one and easiest in the kingdom. She leaves the south hour, and the north side at the half hour, from sunris The William Adam was honoured by conveying Que and Prince Albert across the Frith, on her royal proj north, on the 5th September 1842. The day was mos the water unruffled ; the crowds on both shores very sea covered by numerous steamers and boats, gayly ac deed, the whole scene was calculated to make an \m\ speedily to be forgotten. It is understood that the So pressed the greatest satisfaction with all the arrangei on board the steamer. Mr Mason, the superintendei helm, while the attentive skipper, Charles Roxburgl to the other duties. Since the William Adam was put on the passage, L.2800, raised by subscriptions among the trustees, th ment has been greatly reduced, as the steamer, exc great cattle fairs, performs nearly the whole duty of tl There are, however, two large boats and two pinnaces, be used when required. The number of working han now only to sixteen, with a shore- master, clerk, and t at each side. The rental paid by the tacksmen a amounts to L.I880. It may be useful to notice the < tending the steamer on the passage, viz. three tons o: sumed per day, at 8s. 6d. ; oil for the engine per do. of a gallon ; cotton per month, half a hundred wei boilers require to be cleaned every fortnight, at 14s. the furnace bars are renewed every six months ; a q hundred weight of tallow is used per month ; and the ropes, &c. per week, may amount to L.I. The crew five men and a boy, whose wages amount to L.5, 5s It is pleasant to be able to speak of the correct and nagement of this ferry, when travellers know the very m they can procure a passage, and, by well regulated si^ LINLITHGOW. IS LINLITHQOWSU OD tbe water, secure the preseDce of a their arrival at the pier, where civil porfa with the establishmeDts od each shore, convenience of passengers, who may ct or twelve minutes. Bevised April 1843. PARISH OF ABE PBESBTTERY OF LINLITHSOW, SYNOD O: THE REV. LEWIS H. IRVI I. — Topography and Nati Name, Boondariet, ^c. — This parisl formerly Abercorne, from the ancient u The confluence of a rivulet, called the ' stream at the bottom of the high bank oi points out the probable origin of the a site of the monastery. The parish exteniis 4^ mites iti extr in extreme breadth, containing 7.03 squ angular figure, stretching east and west by Dalmeny; un the south, by Ktrkli nesed poriion of Dalmeny,) aod E^le Linlithgow and Carrideii ; and on the IK The surface is exceedingly diveraifiet to many picturesque undulations and i attains an elevation above 350 feeL 1 ceived the name of hills, Binns hill and mer, st the western extremity of the pi mit : insulaled and rising with uninterr although of no great height, it commac niiicent view of the shores of the Ft country, with a boundisg amphitheatr Grampian, Ochil, Pentland, and Can hill, on the south border of the parish trap- rock, surrounded on three sides b ABERCORN. ting them on rs, connected comfort and ossing in ten rWEEODALE* ime, written .ebercurnig* ith another ircb stands, itive of the id 2^ miles is of a rect- on the east lie, (an an- he west, by th of Forth, ti broken in- to part of it )ne have re- . The for- to the sum- om the sea, ve and mag- :irGumjacent med by the Priestinch ous mass of : called the Priestinch. Its altitude is inconsiderable. The sui flat, of an oval form, and has been rudely fortified al period. The shore is clayey, intersected at several rangfes of rock : near hicrh water-mark, the beach is rolled stones and boulders of greenstone. The bo seaward, the tide receding a great way, but inland th abruptly, presenting a steep, though not precipitous . to 100 feet high. The line of coast, extending abo is of singular beauty. Seen from the terraces and ously conducted along the heights, — a series of irre^ tones with receding bays and steep undulating banks trees to the water's edge, except where a few gre< winding glades occur, just sufficient to break the uni wood, — form a rich foreground to the varied views shore, and flood beyond. Meteorology^ — The average temperature for sevent tained from a register kept by Mr Smith at Hopetc Hydrography. — The Frith of Forth is here ab broad, the water is much discoloured from the parti pable mud suspended, and prevented from subsiding of the tides and winds. The degree of saltness is r lower than that found nearer the mouth of the Frith, are perennial, but neither frequent nor very abun chiefly from the coal measures ; they are more or with iron and sulphuretted hydrogen. One spring 1: medicinally, but its qualities are by no means powerf have not been analyzed. There are several artificial ter of small extent, two of them employed as mill-pon( are ornamental. The only streams are mere rivulets the Midhope, or Nethermill burn, rises in the parij gow, about seven miles from its mouth, entering this south -west angle ; it flows easterly through a deep and reaches the coast a few hundred feet below the joined near the sea by the Cornie bum, a still sn Blackness burn, which separates Abercorn from Car Linnmill burn, which divides it from Dalmeny, both and neither of them above one mile and a-half in le the slender hydrography of the district. Geology. — The strata are much deranged and intc prevailing direction is from north-east to south-west 30 LlNLtTHfiOWSHIHE. north-westerly, the angle varying from 5 t most remarkable disturbance is seen in the r of the NethermiU bum. The rocks are I limestone, &c. of the coal-formation, with trap, 8uch as Btnns hill, Priestinch bill, and ler eileoL The limestone occurs denudec eastern portions of the parish ; the stratum i ^vered with an alluvial deposit of gravel, cb fossil shells, and beautiful impressions of fei in the accompanying shales. Coal appears, the south and south-west districts, but the se plored, are of minor importauce. Calcspaf fissures of the limestone, but the crystals ar canL The general alluvial deposits consist gravel and rolled stones. The bank on which t some othem near the coa^t, seem to be com beds of sand. The soil is varied, — loam on most prevalent aspect ; the loam is shallow, peculiar localities. Boulders of greenstone, ' are occasionally met with. A small coal mi few years past at Priesttnch, close to the neighbnurbood of which the coal crops out, west At an angle of 20°. The seams are i being eighteen inches, and the under one ti nesB, separated by three feet of shale, a band mches thick. Bolb seams of coal are soft a one is used as smithy coal, and yields the b< Zoolofft/. — An otter {Lutra tmlgaru) was in the Nelhermill bum. The Hopeloun di 118 acres, is stocked with between 200 am deer, (CervvM dama.) Squirrels (Sciuna va woods. The weasel {Muitela vtilffiirit) is ^M.erminea) and the po\ecAt {Af,ptitm-iut) The seal {Phoea vitulina,) and the porpoise occasionally visit the shores. Sir Robert capture of a whale, in 169'2,at Abercorn,of I {RonpiaKt boTealit), measuring 7B feet Ion] the Forth for twenty years, and from a perfi by a ball, was known by the name of the (ox {Vulpea vtlgorit) is tolerated id the e bareaare numerous, and of late yean> the m rees. The r the mouth >De9 shaleSf masses of ree of smal- ;entral and feet thickf [led stones; been found ironstone in ir as yet ex- tant in the id insignifi- mixed with stands, and gravel and ottom is its hollow and everal tons, cisted for a mal, in the ) the north - upper one es in thick- >nstone, four ! ; the lower I >• le years ago extending to id of fallow- >ound in the The stoat rarely found. a Phoccena) nentions the back speciesy bad infested its dorsal 6n pike." The r the chase ; >f rabbits ba» ABERCORN. become a nuisance. Buildings are much infested wi rat {Mus decumanus) and the common mouse (A whilst the black rat (M. rattus) and the short-tailei (Arvicola agrestis) are not plentiful. The pheasao Colchicus) has been introduced, and has multiplied < the preserves; the partridge {Perdix cinerea) is n yfoodcocks(Scolopax Rusticolay)sm\ie (S. Gallinago)^ j (Anas Boschas) are still rarer* The cuckoo is a yearl the woods are alive in summer with the notes of the thrush, and the cooing of the wood-pigeon. The common to the climate are plentiful ; the numbers < thrush or storm-cock (Tvrdug vucivorua) have latt< ereaseA During the protracted severity of the wintc mencement of 1838, a male blackbird was repeatc whose plumage had become snow-white, with the e few speckled feathers. The crested lapwing ( Vane^ the dottrel {Charadrius Morinellus)^ and the grey pi rola cinerea) J are frequent. The shores are peoph of waders, consisting of plovers, gulls, {Larusfusc%8^ and L. eannSf) and the lesser auk {Alca Torda.) which the heron {Ardea cinerea) seeks his food in An exterminating warfare is waged agaipst the cr hawks, and owls, but the various races contrive still i veral years ago a pair of black swans {Cygnus atratu Holland were placed in a pond near Hopetoun Ho repeatedly : but the female having been unfortunat one winter bv a fox, the male bird remains the sole pool. Salmon (Salmo salnr^) and its congeners i and & albusj) approach the coast when the season advanced. Skate {Raia Batis^) and flounders (Pk are frequently caught, soles (Solea vulgaris) occi sometimes, but very rarely, sturgeon (Accipenser Sti The common muscle (Mtuculus edtdis) is found able quantities. Formerly some attention was paid tion and preservation of the scalps, so as to furnish i for -white-fishing, but they have been now long neg cuttle fish (Sepia vulgaris) is at times cast ashore. Botany. — From the small portion of the land tl in ^, state of nature, the botanist has but a narrow portion to the extent of surface. The sea-shore a bouriDg water-courses furnish the following Vv£^.^^^ LINUTIlCOWalllH Grimmia luucopbca I Trees of many kinds have been ext thrive well, particularly beech, elm, oak, chestnut, Scot!;, silver, and s))ruce fir, and wood are penetrated and rendered acces^iibl rides and green glades, whose windings anc exquisite glimpses of forest scenery. The chiefly formed dnring the early part of last but few traces of great age. The cedar tn the Hopetoun pleasure-grounds are well t their size and b;^auty. Planted only in 17' nieasures 15 feet 7^ inches in girth, and 8 tremities of iti; branches. The increase ol within the last thirty years. In the same g nut tree {Pagut cattanea) measures 13 feet beech 14 feet 4 inches in circumference, silver firs [Abies picea,) planted early in t markable, several being nearly 100 feet h (Liriodendrou tulipifira) are of considerab flower. The hemlock spruce {AbieiCanao duced, and grows vigorously. To the east quarry, a plane tree (^Aeer pteudo-platima,] is more notable for the number of its sprea ground it covers than for the thickness of betwixt the extremities of its boughs being gigantic ash trees (Fraxinua exceUior,) of ui ancient boundary of the parish churchyard. 16 feet in girth. Their hoary trunks an monumental of generations long since pai slumbers at their feet. In an arboretum ai at Hopetoun House are several Scots fin great size and picturesque fomi, and grt trees ; amongst others, the Cedrut deodara ABERCORN. ntedy and limoy and masses of rection bv 3rd many lave been there are fibani) in ice, from t already 1 the ex- en 5 feet et chests an aged h of the ry, is re- lip trees *equently en intro- e, near a in girth, i and the distance range of larks the measures imbs are lose dust ) gardens estris) of is exotic r mirinda from the Himalaya. One of the latter, a very grac€ a few years old, has attained the height of 20 feet ; \ vigorous specimens in various parts of the grounds are being grafted on the common spruce fir. A Siberian cimbra Siberica) in one of the flower-borders, is remar peculiarity of its form and the tardiness of its grow vigorous thickly-thatched head, it is only 5^ feet h trunk'-but a few inches in diameter, though nearlj years old. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices. — The Monastery of Aebercui than once mentioned by Bede, and appears to have be establishment of early date. In the latter part of century, it formed the residence of a bishop, at a ] Whitherne in Galloway was the only other Episcopa of the Forth. In 696, when Aegfrid, King of the Noi whose kingdom included the Lothians, was slain in I northern Picts, Trumuini^ who then held the see, de< corn too near the Pictish kingdom of Fife, forsook th with his followers.* Trumidniy of whom Bede speaks ' was in all likelihood a Culdee bishop, as the papal a then but little influence in Scotland. The Castle a Abercorn were possessed by Walter Avenale in the n twelfth century; and in 1176, a dispute took place son, John Avenale, and Richard, second Bishop of I garding the patronage of the parish, the monastery extinct As might be expected in those days, the < prelate was triumphant. In 1460, the whole churc longing to the Bishop of Dunkeld on this side of including Abercorn, Cramond, Preston, and Abe erected into one barony, called the barony of Aberla thirteenth century, the estate of Abercorn passed by on the possession of the Graemes, and was held by the John the Graeme, the friend of Wallace, killed in hi the English at Falkirk July 2-2d 1298. The estate quently the property of the Black Douglases. Aberc a strong natural position, partook of the fortunes of house. Repeatedly attacked during a period peculiarl it was besieged by James II. in 14.55, and taken by si 6tlt^ April.f The Earl's retainers were put to the * B«la, Hi»t. W. 26. t Godsoroft, p. 203, fbUa 24 I.INLITHGOWS the rastle cleatrojed. Buchanan speal in his time. It was never rebuilt. T the Crown on Claud Hamilton, the 6 son to the Earl of Arran. Forfeited fi tunes of Mary, it was restored to liis in 1606 Earl of Abercorn. From this f to the Mures, Lindsays of the Byres, by Sir Walter Seton in 1678 to John Earl of Hopetoun. The estate had few acres, but had the sheriffship of until the abolition of heritable jurisdici Eminent Men. — Thomas Dulyell o army, and for some years at the head was born iu this parish in 16)5. His nished scope for the sarcastic pen of S« tain Cretghton, while the public histoi an important element in the narrative of Scotland. Undaunted courage, an his sovereign, form almost the sole re< dolent of cruelty. Hediedat Edinburgh erected in 162.'}, is attached lo the chur< ture there is no record. His portrait, wi Binns House. John Dundas of Philp for the Church, and the author, of the Assembly, published in 1721, was a at prietor and elder within its boimds. . toun, whose character conferred a lust held, was born at Hopetoim House in soldier belongs to the history of the I his military career as General Sir Johi The Corunna dispatch, written- when on the death of Sir John Moore, a mingled grief and glory, is well-know He was, however, not less remarkable i order, and all the milder graces of pr and capability in the 6eld. Created I dry in 1814, he succeeded his brother toun, in 1616. On his retirement frc himself, among other avocations, to county over which he presided as Ia assiduous and punctual attention to all ABBRCOUN* $einidiruta arx" s conferred by Paisley, third nee to the for- w VI., created 3d successively and was sold ?r to the first that time to a ttached to ie^ reneral in the in Scotland, ntricities fur- noirs of Cap- Daly ell forms I of the Kirk 3d fidelity to 3 in a life re« family vault, laceof sepul- i preserved at e, procurator •f the Acts of *n, and a pro- arl of Hope- 1 the rank he iputation as a vhose details y interwoven, he command that day of 10 comment, mts of a high for courage Baron Nid- ilarl of Hope- , he devoted siness of the . and by his ' county mat- ters, produced a very marked amelioration. In the functions devolving upon him as a magistrate, a parent, his intellectual endowments and high pers< integrity, love of order, and benevolence, together and unaffected kindliness of his deportment, inve£ beneficial moral influence, of great power and wi sudden and comparatively premature death was fel lamity, and his memory is still deeply venerate Paris, August 27th 1823. His remains have bee red in a cemetery of Saxon architecture near the ( the statue in bronze erected in St Andrew's Squs two portraits of this Earl, painted by Raeburn, ha' ly placed in the county halls at Linlithgow and C his Majesty George IV. visited Hopetoun Hous^ his embarkation for England. This tribute of esteem was as singular as it was justly earned ; th< toun being the only private individual so honoi King's sojourn in Scotland. Land'owners. — The old valuation of the pai L.6945, 7s. Scots, now divided between two propi of Hopetoun, who possesses L.6212, ds. Scots of the trustees of the late Sir James Dalyell, Bart. < property within the parish is valued at L.7dd, 4 Hopetoun estate is an aggregation of smaller pro at various periods, such as Philpstoun, Stoneyhil formerly possessed by branches of the house of D vie, the property of a family of Durhams; Midhop of the Earls of Linlithgow ; Craigton, possessed 1 and Duddingstoun, lately the property of Gabriel das, Esq. Parochial Registers, — The parochial records i The minutes of kirk-session reach from 1691 to tl with the exception of the years from 1737 to 175( ing which a protracted vacancy occurred. The regi commences with the year 1 585 ; some of the earl: however, imperfect The record of marriage pre that of deaths are complete from 1700. The mil Revolution have been, Alexander Dalgleish, ind John Brown in 1700 ; Henry Lundie in 1740, Edinburgh in 1758; John Richie in 1759; Hu, D. D., Professor of Church History in the Uni^ burgh, inducted in 1791 ; aivd vVv^ y^^^^vX.\^oxc S6 LINLITHOOWS Antiquiliet. — The Roman wall, or necting the Friths of Forth and Clyd vriters the wall of Abercom ; it is, whether that line of defence extended bald, indeed, writing from hii own obt survey, says, that the wall passed Abe " laird of Maner's windmill," which oi at the commencement of the easte House, where traces of escarpment art ever, states that the wall terminated i distant about two Roman miles from nig.f This language would apparen the Feanfahel or " head of the wall." may have been at some period continu the*' windmill knowe." No light hash the discovery of monuments or inscrip monastery have wholly disappeared ; b< and a mass of deep black loam, of lim the church, are the only traces hithei castle of Abercom is marked by a gn been carefully removed at the dictate the Hopetoun pleasure-grounds were i was singularly strong, accessible from high ground, but surrounded on all o The socket of an ancient cross, occupy exhumed last year, in altering the wei the removal of an ouUbuilding, the si and converted into an obscure window ble are elaborately carved with arabes bling ihe crosses at lona. Midhope derable age, is in tolerable preservati' turretted tower, with a cumbrous ad side. The old doorway bears above J. L. in cipher, the initials of the tht lithgow. An oak stair, of massive wo to the upper stories of the house, inhi Manswn-Hou$et. — Binna House, a ing, garnished with turrets and embras the western slope of Binns hilL It wa: by the late proptietor. The park an • Sibbcld'i Hlttotkd InquiriM, p. 31. ABERCORN. mi," con- I bj some 3f dispute 3bert Sib- t's former ted at the eminence lopetoun Hie, how- ^nneltuDi, lebercur- ikness as * outwork as far as ubject by IS of the buildings icinity of e of the s having ng when situation r neck of p banks, tion, was ; and by lutilated, ides visi- f, resem* of consi- a square the east le letters of Lin- es access >f build- )laced on enlarged iresque ; 12. the grassy acclivities of the hill being interspersed wit! trees aud groups of evergreens. The summit is crow high round tower, forming a conspicuous land-mark, stoun House, a modern erection, of a heavy castellated stands on high ground in the south-east of the parish mands an extensive view. Hopetoun House, the principj of the family of that name, holds a pre-eminent place mansions of the land. Originally planned by Sir Wil of Kinross, it was commenced in 1696, but not comj many years after, under the superintendence of Mr A( front is very extended, consisting of a corpidelogis^ wit wings terminating in octagonal dome-roofed towers, anc with the body of the house by sweeping colonnades, tects have sedulously avoided all prominence in the mi enhancing materially the genen^^l effect. The decorati< not obtrusive, are yet sufficiently rich and numerous heaviness or insipidity. The stables, contained in the are on a scale of princely magniBcence. The internal dations are extensive, although convenience has been sacrificed to the production of an imposing facade. ' is rich in early specimens of printing, and illuminated manuscripts. An ample collection of paintings has be including works of many ancient masters, both of tl and Italian schools. Occupying an elevated plateau view, from the house eastward, embraces the opening o: with its picturesque shores and rocky islets. North Be closing the vista. The grounds within the plaisance high order, formerly laid out after the French symme The more formal arrangement has been broken dov quaint dipt yew-trees and grassy terraces have been spared, to soften the transition from the style of the ho architectural accompaniments, to the irregularities oi outliue, characteristic of the more modern alterations, dens are extensive, well sheltered, and of varied exposi and successful pains are bestowed on their culture, within the grounds, more especially along the verge o; sea bank, abound in interesting views, whilst the abi tall evergreens renders the bleak aspect of a Scottish perceptible. The eastern and principal approach p the centre of an open levelled esplanade, but the we through an overarching avenue of noble elmS| forcibly 28 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. the hypotbedo origin of the lon^-drawn aisles and fretted of the Gothic or Saracenic architecture. IIL — Population. Males. Females. The population of this parish was, id 1755, 419 496 1792, . 451 1801, . ^ 1811, . „ 1821, . ^ lasi, . ^ 1832, 493 In the census of 1841, the population isstated to be 2147 extraordinary increase arose from the residence of about bourers during the formation of the Edinbui^h and Glas wav. From the record of baptisms, it would appear that the | population was more numerous in the close of the sevent tury than at any subsequent period ; the annual avera^ for ten years being then about 39, whereas, for the te ceding 179Q, it hardly reached 20, and is now b Probably the obliteration of several farms, in order parks and ornamental grounds in the vicinity of Ho may explain the decrease. Number of persons residing in the Tillages, country, IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — Total number of imperial acres, under tillage, or laid down in grass and subject cultivation, under wood, never cultivated, consisting of bog or steep ba occupied by roads, railway, canal, and beach, There is no natural wood, but the extensive p) nearly one-sixth of the whole surface, abounr well-thriven trees. Much attention has in f thinning and pruning, and the surrounding f cellent repair. The rent of land in cultiv 15s. to L.2, lOs. The annual rent of grazir Wages. — Rate of country labour per d and in winter, Is. 6d. ; wages of artisans winter, 2s. The prices of raw produce are in great measure determined by the Edinburgh and its neighbourhood. Son? stowed in the improvement of the catt' the Teeswater breed. The husbandr ABBRCOllN. 29 kept pace with th6 general improvement in method and farming implements common to the country. Furrow-draining, both with stones and tiles, is of late becoming frequent, and from the gene- rally retentive nature of the subsoil, the results are most beneBciaL Stones fit for drains abound in all directions, and drain tiles are easily procured from the manufactory at Blackness, distant but a short way from the boundary of the parish. The general dura- tion of leases is nineteen years. The grass parks are let from year to year. The farm- buildings are by no means showy, al« though commodious and in good condition. Quarries and Mines, — Several quarries of excellent freestone, in various parts of the parish, have been occasionally wrought from a very remote date. The stone is durable, and well adapted for building. The quarries in the northern and central districts yield a stone varying in hue from a cream colour to a palish-gray ; in the south and south-west, a hard durable freestone is procured of an intensely dark-gray, approaching to black. Both admit of being wrought for ornamental purposes. Hopetoun House fur- nishes a very favourable specimen of the lighter variety, whilst the dark has been employed in the erection of the house and offices at Duddingston. A quarry of trap, on the north face of Priest- inch Hill, opened by the Road Trustees, affords the best material for roads in this vicinity. Limestone has been extensively exca- vated in the central and south-eastern parts of the parish. The workings are of great age ; and it is traditionally reported, that the lime used in the once famous fortifications of Dunkirk was obtained from Abercorn. The stone is still quarried in consider- able quantities on the farm of Newton, giving work to about ten men. It is of a dark gray colour, but becomes pure white when calcined, being very free from foreign ingredients, with the exception of carbon. It becomes so extremely friable in the pro- cess of burning as to unfit it for the draw-kiln. The method re- sorted to is that styled the sow-kiln. Its purity renders the lime fitter for agricultural purposes than for building.r The bed of limestone measures 10 feet in thickness, and the depth of the alluvial covering varies from 15 to 35 feet, whose removal add» very considerably to the expense of working. The lime sells at 2s. 6d. per boll of six imperial bushels. The coal mine, near Prie^tinch, is of small extent, and without peculiarity. The num- ber of people employed is about seventeen. The water is drawn off by a small steam-engine. 31 LIXLITHQOWSm FUkery. — The odIj Bshery is at thi Burn, where very extensive stake-nets a of salmon. This station was once toh in the latter months of the fishing seasi quantity taken has diminished material right of fishing from the proprietors ol The rent paid to proprietors within 1 yearly. During several months, nearly Amount of Raw Produce. — The folio to the gross amount of raw produce yeai Produce of gnin of ill kmdi, potaloo, turnip*, &0. h.y. Uod in puture. . ■nnuBl thinniog of wood, fiiherj, (««j) Told) nnnual trIdc of rair produce. The annual rent of real properly, as ass< The burning of lime is the only bra the exception of the ordinary country two corn-mills driven by water, and a sa the Earl of Hopetoun, on the Netherm utility of which is very apparent, from plantations, and the quantity of full-grow V. — Parochial Eco Means of Communication.— "Vhe ne South Queensferry, distant three anda-h; about six miles from the church of Aben most accessible post-town lo the great bull municacion by a private runner takes plat neither medical prnutitioner, general men within the parish ; the villages of Newton, being mere hamlets, and furnishing merf groceries. The cluster of houses near t led a village. The turnpike road from Q traverses the parish for nearly four and t are statute-labour roads. These, togeth the rivulets and canal, are kept in good walls are frequent, but the most prevale dry stone dikes, which are efficiently n Canal passes through the south ^rt boundary, affording the most accessJbl I r LiDD^mill le capture ^ at least years, the holds the of coast, out L.60 mployed* )xiaiatioa L.7722. ire, with lere are cted, by spective t of the 'ns are, lithgow, iv is the s'; com- There is butcher pstoun, ops for be cal* lithgow ) others t across id lime :es and Union iar its 5 con- ABBRCORN. • veyance ; and the line of the Edinburgh and Glasgow runs alongside, and in some parts but a few yards distar canal. No harbour or quay exist, but small vessels wit load their cargoes on the beach, in the bay at Society ; stone is some times exported in the same manner. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands near the the north boundary of the parish, and close to the sea si situation is tolerably convenient, being about three miU extreme points, while the greater part of the populal within two miles. Part of the church is very ancient ; 1 its original erection is, however, unknown ; it was en fitted up soon after the Reformation, some of the old bearing a. d. 1579. Built at various periods without gard to convenience or beauty, the form is most irreguli accommodation was wretched until 1838, when a thoro took place. Being now drained, floored, the walls hti heated air apparatus constructed, it forms a comfortabi worship, nearly adequate to the wants of the communit are no sittings let, the whole, with the exception of t seats of the heritors, being allotted to the parishior church bell, of considerable size, and handsome wo] presented by a naval gentleman, was formerly the bell ( ship of war, and formed part of the spoil at the battle hagen. Part of the manse is of an unknown date ; add been made to it at various times ; it was last altered ar in 1832. The garden is large, walled, and product glebe contains between five and six acres, and might 1( a»year. The stipend consists of the following itemi wheat (old measure,) 4^^ ; barley, 92^^; meal, 16 192g| ; money, L.50 ; for communion elements, L.8, 6: the whole may average L.240. There is no disseutin worship in the parish ; the nearest is at Queensferry. bers belonging to different denominations were in 1832 nor have the proportions much altered since : Establish^ 192 families; 948 persons of all ages; Seceders, 12 d< Episcopalians, 1 do ; 2 do. The church attendance is A communion- roll, embracing all the members, has since 1832, and regularly revised by the kirk-session the dispensation of the Lord's Supper, which takes pla year. The number on that roll is at present 390 ; 1 number of communicants at each time, is 350. The k 32 LINLITHOOWI consisting of the minister and seven past, revived the custom, once mainli tag slated diets For prayer once a-m a benefit in many respects. A pare ed since I83S, whose funds are eqt Bchenies of the Church of Scotland. . with the subject is held monthly, and ject and success of inissianar}' euterf institution. The disposable funds at butioiis, L..ti; four collections at churt tributed as above, L.24. The ordinary collections aod don yearly to L. 62, which, with L. I8r gives L.80 as the average sum coUec all purposes. Education. — I'here are two schools school, and one exclusively for girls, of Hopetnun. In the parish school, tl are receiving instruction in reading, arithmetic, and geography. A few are Greek, and French. The school is opi 'J'he Bible is employed as a class-book, universally taught. The number in att boys. The explanatory system is »i female school, the children are insti English grammar, and geography. Catechism are employed daily, and th number of pupils is about 70, all of w Sabbath school, under the personal sup and elders, has e&isted for some years Classes of male and female catechuni Sabbaths by the minister, averaging from the age of thirteen to twenty. T permitted to retire a few years ago, re the maximum, L.fM,4s.4^. for life, is now supported, in part, by priTate sl school-fees, the house, garden, the inte and the emoluments of the sessions amount to, subscriptioni, L.17 ; interei salary, &c. L.6; school-fees, about L.i average emoluments derivable from tl ABERCORN. seven jearm isb, of bold* ictice proves i bas exist- among the 'i connected it in the ob- le since its r in contri- ; inalldis- >or amount collections, h doors^for e parochiaf ) Countess the pupils grammar, icsy Latin, ith prayer, Catechison BO, chiefly . At the r, writing, 1 Shorter ient. The ) sew. A e minister children* alternate f females, aster wa& which is successor :eives the ti6cation, ese may n-clerk's Is. The sire, sub- scription, L.14; school-fees, about L.20; total, L.d^ per legal accommodation is furnished to the pared and the teacher of the female school has a school-nx bouse, and garden, secured to her. The expense varies from 88. to L. 1 annually, according to the branc About 12 children of the poor are educated gratui kindness of the heritors. Literature. — A parochial library was established contains now 260 volumes of useful miscellaneous re charge is 3s. annually, and about fifty families avail t the advantage. A juvenile religious library of 180 \ tached to the Sabbath school : the books, furnished collection some years since, are given out gratis. J ciety existed for a number of years, but unfortunatel; began to diminish rapidly, from a deficiency of new and the funds were lately divided amongst the subsci Poor and Parochial Funds. — The opulent fami along shown much attention to the wants of their si dependents, thereby limiting the demands on the The number of paupers on the roll is, at an average on whom depend 7. Occasional relief is afforded The highest annual rate of relief to regular paupers the lowest, L.2, 18s. No assessment has ever existc venue is derived from the following sources : average ( L.62, lOs. 6d. ; interest on a mortification and mc L.17, 185. 6d. ; total, L.80, 9s. Deducting session-cl tor's, Synod and Presbytery clerk's fees, and sexton's ds. 6d.,.there remains for relief of the poor, L.67, 6s. € sum of L.19 is paid by the heritors, in voluntary sut the board of a lunatic A strong feeling of honest i prevails, leading the people to strain every effort ra cei?e habitual relief. Some striking instances of tl come to the writer's knowledge. Inns, — Besides a small inn at Society, there are thi some of which might be beneficially dispensed with. Fuel — Coal is almost exclusively the fuel employ April 184a LINLITHGOW. PARISH OF TORPHICHEN. PUESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWREDDA THE REV. WILLIAM M. HETHERINGTON, MINISTI L — TOPOGBAPHY AND NaTUBAL HiSTORY. Name. — The Dame of this parish is evidently Celtic in its < ^in ; but etymologists are by no means agreed with regard to tfiie composition and meaning. The word Tor is unquestionr hill; but the latter part of the name is more doubtful. Som' sert it to mean /en, and say that it refers to a range of hills ' vicinity having ten summits. The range, however, has no than seven distinct summits ; and the Gaelic word fichead twenty^ not ten^ as they assume. The most probable d' seems to be Torfeochan^ or the hill of the Ravens. It m giirded as some corroboration of this meaning that tb estate in the neighbourhood of the village named Craw that the crest of the most extensive land proprietor in is a raven chained to a rockj as if in allusion to the par Boundaries^ Extent^ 6fc. — Torphichen is bounded by Linlithgow ; on the south by Bathgate, and pa on the west by part of Shotts and New Monklanr north by part of Slaroannan and Muiravonside. Its is about 10 miles from east to west, and its greate "2^1 miles. In one part the breadth is less than a n about 10,429.77 English acres; and about 16.t' Topographical Aspect. — The eastern part of agreeably diversiBed by a succession of woody terraces, and cliffy ridges, as it ascends towards of hills by which it is divided from Bathgate the east. The ridge immediately above the « arly picturesque appearance when viewed fron of a succession of rounded summits swelling^ a as if some enormous ocean-tide had been solid earth throughout the continuous swee^ 4 TORPHICHBN. 35 ings. The western side of this beautiful ridge slopes gradually down into softer undulations, in the midst of which are situated the village, the church, and the Preceptory of Torphichen. The dis- trict around the village is both fertile, and presents a pleasing and remarkable diversity of picturesque aspects, as viewed from vari- ous points, through clusters of woody ridges, and green trees, and craggy cliSs of trap, till it sinks away into the hollow through which flows the small stream, the Loggie. From thence it again ascends into a sort of bleak upland, composed chiefly of stoney elevations with a clayey subsoil, interspersed by long stripes and flats of heathery bogs, and wet marshes, covered deep with peat moss. The highest hill in the parish is that central one of the Bath- gate and Torphichen range, called Cairn-naple, or Cairn- paple, which is just included within the angle of its eastern boundary, — its height is stated to be 1498 feet. Towards the north the bound- ary-line skirts the base of Cockleroi (perhaps Cachil-righ^ the King's chair)^ which is considerably lower ; and includes Bowden- hill, which terminates the range in that direction. From the sum- mit of any of th6se hills, especially Cachil-righ, may be obtained a prospect scarcely surpassed by any in Scotland for extent, beauty, and magnificence, — reaching from North Berwick Law to the dis<- tant cloud-crowned Ben Lomond, and including the view of Edin- burgh with its castle, Salisbury Craigs, and Arthur's' Seat, the bays and windings of the Forth, ^' studded with islets and alive with sails," — the rich and varied scenery of the Fifeshire coast, with all its numerous villages and spires and towns, — the wavy outline and the deep indentations of the massy Ochils, the fertile carse-land of Falkirk, the gray towers of ancient Stirling, and the sky- piercing peaks of the majestic Grampians. Behind the mansion-house of Craw-hill, on the banks of the river Avon, which are deep, rocky, and wooded, there is a chasm commonly called Wallace's cave ; and close adjoining it there is a natui'al arch in the living rock of very considerable size, within the deep clefts of which there are some beautiful and rather rare varieties of lichens and mosses. The climate is unquestionably good, though rather cold. The air is pure and bracing, particularly in the eastern division of the parish ; and even in the more upland and moorish districts west- war4} there are no such exhalations as to be noxious to the health of the inhabitants* 36 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. Hydrography. — There are only two mineral springs desen of notice as such. At the westward base of the Kipps>hiU th is one said to be impregnated with TitrioL On the estate of W house, and about a mile west from the village, there is a chalybe spring, which formerly enjoyed some reputation as a tonic, but fallen into neglect, so that even its position is scarcely kno^ Several other springs exhibit traces of mineral impregnation! I of no very decided character. On the very boundary of the Cathlaw estate, nearly due e from the Preceptory, there is a very strong spring of deliciou tasted pure water, called St John's well ; to which it is said I Knights of St John used to go in days of yore for a morni draught Whether its virtues were meditinal, or of a more hi lowed character, tradition cannot exactly inform us ; but still waters are thought to possess peculiar healing powers, if not si rarer qualities, which operate in various cases as a charm. N it stood a stone, in some way connected with the well, and on very limits of the parish. There is a beautiful little lake at Lochcote, about a mile north-east of the village, in the hollow formed by the sur ing hills of Bowden, Cachil-righ, and Kipps. It covers a' JEnglish acres. Formerly it discharged its surplus wat' stream from its north-west end, which formed a singular led the eel-ark. From this pool it ran under ground for 200 yards, when it again burst upwards like a strong continued its course into the Avon. This romantic li^ drained by a late proprietor, who thereby lost a g beauty, and gained a few acres of deep, ill-reclaimed, arable marsh. The present proprietor (Joseph Hum with great taste, determined to restore the lake, consic^ tiful sheet of water more truly valuable as an ornan? gant mansion on its margin, than could be the a^ much muddy soil and rank vegetation. The little river Avon flows along the north b phichen, dividing it from the parish of Muiravor gie is a much smaller stream than the Avon, intc forms the boundary between Torphichen and ral miles ; but though its channel is considera is not adorned with scenery of particular inte Geology and Mineralogy, — The most pe tures of the parish are to be found in the e TORPHICHfiN. 37 the Bathgate range of hills. That range is chiefly composed of trap-rock as its central mass, with successive strata of limestone, carboniferous shale, coal, sandstone, and thick beds of clay, gra- vel, and other alluvial deposits. The ridge seems to have been produced by igneous agency, upheaving the superincumbent stra- ta, bursting through them in the centre, in some places overly- ing them, in others rending them asunder and thrusting them aside till it displayed the disturbing material in various aspects, .occa- sionally in that of columnar trap. The dip of the superincum- bent strata is accordingly very steep, in some places almost per- pendicular, in others a foot in five or six, and gradually diminish- ing till it reach the level of the adjoining country. The pic- turesquely undulating range of the Torphichen hills, already de- scribed, is also composed of trap; and where it has b^en decom- posed around their sides and bases, or in hollows, it has formed a peculiarly rich and fertile soil, though of no great depth. On the Hilderston hills, on the west side of the Bathgate ridge, there is a coal mine, the mouth of which must be at least 800 feet above the level of the sea. This height has been manifestly caused by the upheaving. of the ridge where the trap forced its way from be- neath, raising in its passage the superincumbent^strata, as the mine is worked in from the top where the coal crops out. Nearly oppo-^ site, on the eastern shoulder of the same hill, there is a limestone quarry, in which many shells are found, chiefly ammonites, some of which are unusually large. Some fossil fishes are also said to have been found. A coal mine has been recently opened in the hollow between the Kipp hills, the Torphichen wavy range, and the continuation of the Bathgate range, running through Cath-* law estate. The coal bed seems to lie in a kind of basin formed by these ridges, and can scarcely be expected to be very produc- tive or permanent from the nature of the situation. In Bowden hill is another limestone quarry, or rather mine, en- tered by a horizontal shaft in the side of the hill, and chambered out regularly, leaving columns to support the roof of what is be- coming an immense cave. Along the course of the Loggie burn there runs a chain of co- nical sand-hills, of such a regular figure, as to have led to the er- roneous popular belief that they are artiflcial, and have been rais- ed at some distant period as monumental mounds. They are, however, obviously natural, being composed entirely of fine sea- sand, washed together into regular heaps and banks by the actiocL as LINLITHOOWSHIRF. of water, at some period indcBnitely remote, when the whok ciunjacent country had not yet emerged from the depths of ocean. In the limestone quarry 6rst . mentioned, there was forno found a considerable quantity of silver ore, whence the plac still called the silver mine ; but the ore was not found to be et sufficient in quantity or rich enough in quality, to repay the pense of working it ; consequently that has been abandoned. There was also a coal mine on the property of Bridgecas about two miles and a-half west from Torphichen village, wb was wrought several years. Its quality is said not to have b very good, and it also has been neglected for some time, thoi it is reported that the present proprietor. Captain Hope, R. N., tends to open it again. Zoology and Botany. — There is nothing known of the zool of this parish meriting peculiar notice. In botany it is worth} more attention ; less, however, on account of its possession of v rare plants, than because nearly all the varieties of plants indi nous to the lowlands of Scotland, especially to trap distr may be found in it in a state of great perfection, and even ' almost peculiar ^to the Highlands. On Cathlaw estate tl copodium is found in great profusion ; as also the wild g* and some beautiful varieties of the polygala, or milkwort, are also some fine species of the orchis ; and the trap hil* Torphichen ridge abound with the common wild heart* greater profusion than can be seen almost any where else are also some rather rare kinds of mosses and lichens fo moorish districts, and among the rocky banks of the Ai exotic plants have been occasionally found on the Ki if naturalized, which are thought to have been broug' Sir Robert Sibbald in former davs. m The soil seems to be adapted to the growth of most any kind, as appears from the well-wooded as trict in the eastern division of the parish. Ther old trees of considerable magnitude around the m law, Lochcote, Wallhouse, and Bridgecastle ; hill and Hilderston hill there are some young very thriving condition, — indicating the possibilit were a system of planting adopted generally by f II. — Civil History. Almost the only account of the parish of T< TORPHICHEN. 39 ever been written or printed is to be found in Sir Robert Sibbaltf s History of the Shire of Linlithgow. There is also a somewhat confused account of it in a brief history of Linlithgowshire by the late John Penney, Esq. Information respecting its history and antiquities may also be gleaned from papers connected with the . family records of the different proprietors, particularly the Noble family of Torphichen. As these contain materials of some in- terest, it has been thought proper to bring them together so as to form a somewhat detailed and connected account. The civil history of Torphichen is so intimately connected with . that of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem,fwho had their Precep- torate, or chief site and regality there, thatashort account of thatmi- litary and monastic order of knighthood will be that of Torphichen itself. This celebrated order had its origin in the interval between the 6rst and second crusades, when, for the accommodation of the pilgrims who visited the Holy Sepulchre, especially of the sick among them, an hospital was built near the church, and dedicated to St John the Almoner. As they increased in numbers and in- fluence the brothers of the hospital first withdrew from the juris- diction of the Abbot of the Latin Church, and finally became in- dependent of the Patriarch of Jerusalem. This happened in the year 1104, which may be taken as the date of the commencement of the Order of St John of Jerusalem or Knights Hospitallers, as they are sometimes termed, in contradistinction to the Order of Templars. When Jerusalem fell into the hands of the Saracens the survivors of the Order were compelled to retire into Italy, where they obtained from Pope Innocent IV. a dispensation, ab- solving them from their original obligation, and permitting them to elect a Grand Master and other subordinate officers for their own government The same distinguished Order afterwards held possession of the Island of Rhodes, maintaining it against the Turks in the most brave and determined manner, during which they were generally called the Knights of Rhodes. When Rhodes finally was reduced by the Turks in 1522, the knights ob- tained possession of Malta in 1530, which they defended against their old antagonists the Turks, and in the defence displayed pro- digies of valour and military skill. The renown obtained by the Knights of St John gave rise to .several other orders of knighthood, of which the Templars were the chief. The templars, however, excited the indignation of Philip IV. of France by their licentiousness, or his cuijidit^ ^^ / 40 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. their wealth ; and were suppressed in the year 1312. Pr to their downfall they had acquired extensive possessions in kingdom in Europe, which were either seized upon by the reign, or transferred to the kindred order of St John* Ii manner, the lands of both t)rders came to belong to the Johani though in many instances they retained the name of Temple 1 from the Templars, as being the best known» though not the ancient and honourable order. As the Knights of St John had adherents, so they soon acqi possessions in every country in Europe. They were 6rst < blished in Scotland by David L or Malcolm IV. in the year 1 In the charter granted by that monarch there occur the follow words : ^' Qui in liberam et puram Eleemosynam donavit Fratr Hospitalis Hierosolymitani unum plenarium tofium in qual Burgd totius terrse suae/' l^is small foundation was greatly pHfied by additional grants from the succeeding kings, especi by Alexander II. and III., Robert II., and the Janieses II., I and IV. These sovereigns not only con6rmed the donatior their predecessors, but by new grants of lands, and by grar privileges, powers, rights of patronage, and civil immunities bestowed at length a competent revenue and territory, and f the dignities of the order into what was termed the Lorr St John and Preceptorie of Torphichen. The suppressic Templars tended greatly to augment the power of the K St John. By a canon of the Council of Vienna, and Pope Clement VII., the whole lands and possessic Knights Templars in Scotland were conferred upon t of St John of Jerusalen^ The former had had their Temple in Mid* Lothian, the latter at Torphichen tinned to remain their chief seat or Preceptory. their new acquisitions, however, retain the designati lands, but even their own original property canoe t the same name, which has caused considerable a attempts that have been made to discriminate be formerly held by the Templars and those held b St John. Several of the preceptors, priors, or grand phichen were men of great talent, and distinf in the public affairs of the kingdom. Ment ^'Archibaldus Magister de Torphichen," w charter of Alexander, Great Steward of Sco^ TORPHICHEN- 41 In the year 1298* whila the heroic Sir Winiam Wallace was Regent of Scotland, he held his head-quarters at the preceptory of Torphichen for some time previous to the battle of Falkirk, as appears from a charter granted by him as regent, conferring some lands at Dundee upon Alexander Scrimgepur, the royal standard- bearer, as a reward for his services, which charter is dated at Tor- phichen, the 29th day of March 129a* It would seem that the then preceptor had previously sworn fealty to Edward L of Eng- land, as did so many Scottish nobles, but redeemed his character for patriotism, and afterwards fell at the fatal battle of Falkirk, fought on the 22d of July I29a His name is given by Rymer as Alexander de Wells. The next Preceptor of whom particular mention is made was Sir William Knolles, who held the preceptorate about half a cen- turv, and was commonly designated Lord St John. He held the offices of Councillor and Treasurer in the reign of James IV., and was killed fighting by the side of that brave but rash monarch at Flodden Field in 1513. He was succeeded by Sir George Dundas, who had been the fellow-student of Hector Boetius at Paris, and was distinguished for his learning. Sir Walter Lind- say was the next preceptor, who also rose to distinction in the kingdom, and was appointed to the office of Justice- General of Scotland in the reign of James V. In Sir David Lindsay's <* Testament of Squyer Meldrum,'' he is mentioned in the follow-- ing laudatory terms : * *' Charta Domini Oulixlmi Wallack, Custodis Sootitt, Nomine Jobannis Baliol Regis cum rigillo cjusdem Jobaonis. ^* Willelmus Walays miles custos regni Sootis et ductor exercitus ejusdem nomine preclari principis domini Jobannis dei gratia Regis Scotia) illustris de consensu oom- munitatis ejusdem regni, omnibus probis bominibus dicti regni ad quos presens scrips turn penrenerit eternam in Domino salutem. Noverit univeraitas vestra nos nomine predicti domini nostri regis Sootis per consensum et assensum magnatUm dicti r^ni dedisse et coneessisse ac ipsa donationem et concessidnem presenta carti confijinasse Alexandro dicto Skirmiscbur sex marcatas terrae in territorio de Dunde. Scilicet terram nllam ^u« vocatur campus superior prope villaro de Dunde ex parte boreali cum acria ilHs in carapo occidentalL £t etiam pratum^egium in predicto territorio de Dunde cum suis pertinenciis, libertatibus, et asyamentis sine aliquo retinementa pro bamagis predicto domino regi et beredibus suis re\ suis suocesnoribus faoiendo, et pro fkleli senricio et succursu suo predicto regno impenso portando vexillum regium in exercitu Scotise tempore confectionis presentium. Tenend et babend pr^cto- Alexandro et beredibus suis de predicto domino nostro rege et beredibus suis vel saia successoribus libere, quiete, integre, pacifice, et bonorifice in perpetuum cum omni- Imu pertinenciis libertatibus et asyamentis ad dictam terram et pratum prenominatum et prefiitom constabularium spectantibus vel quoquo modo speotare TiUentibus in fu* tunim, iaciendo inde annuatim domino regi et beredibus suis Tel suis successoribus^ scilicet pro predictis terra, prato, et constabularia cum suis pertinenciis, libertatibus^ et asyamentis servicium quod pertinet ad dictam constabulariam tantum pro omnibus- qvm de predicti exigi poterunt in futurum. In cujus rei testimonium sigillum com« mune predicti regni Sootic present! scripto est oppositum, datum apud TonqkU««Scc ground, formerly inclosed within the moat, still bears the na ^^ the Knights' Garden,'' although it has long been cultivat the plough alone, and yielded no other produce than that coi to the adjacent fields. Notwithstanding the entire disappearance of the nave^ the i portion of the original building, there are no records, nor traditions of its having been demolished by any sudden bu popular violence. From any such fate it may have been prei by its falling entire into the hands of Sir James Sandilands, could have no interest in its destruction, and whose influenci the Reformers would be suflScient for its preservation. But ai der House very soon became the chief residence of the Torphichen, it was neglected, and, falling into decay, was m a quarry, whence stones might be procuredffor any necessary pose. That such was the case is evident from the fact, that houses in the village are built entirely of hewn stones, su size, form, and apparent age as those of the portion which it mains standing, while the greater part of the stone walls by the adjoining fields are subdivided are composed of exactly materials. In this manner have the walls of the nave been piece-meal at length entirely away. There was also, accor tradition, another house of some size and unknown antiquif close to one angle of the transept, a portion of which was s about eighty years ago, as the writer of this was informe old woman who died in 1837 at the age of eighty-nine, said to have been a separate tenement, built for the acct tion of the knights when their numbers had increased beyi the preceptory could conveniently contain. It communie the transept by a private door, which is still visible, thouf ly built up. While the lovers of antiquity must deplorr TORPHICHEN. 49 pidatioDs by which this ancient and very remarkable building has suJOTered so severely, it must be gratifying to know, as it is to re- cord, that it will be preserved henceforth from any such violence and desecration. Its present Noble proprietor, Lord Torphicheo, has with great good taste and judgment recently protected it from the wasting ravages of time and the weather by roofing it com- pletely anew, and closing the rents and chinks which here and there had deeply scarred its hoary and venerable walls ; so that re- mote ages may continue to contemplate the sole remaining monu- ment of what was once a mistaken, yet a. very gallant Order of vowed and consecrated warriors, many of whose exploits shed lustre on the darkness of the middle -ages, like the path of a meteor through the gloom of a lowering sky. In the interior of the transept or choir, at its south end, beneath one of the windows, is a curious arch, in the form of a canopy, about six feet in span, within which it is said the bodies of the knights were laid before interment, and during the performance of the funeral rites; and close beside it is a font for holy water. There is an antiquely carved stone, built into a comparatively mo- dern part of the inner wall on the west side, on which the follow- ing inscription may with difficulty, and perhaps also with some un- certainty, be read : *^ Gualterus Lindesay, Justiciarius Generalis de Scotland, et Principalis Preceptor Torphicensis, 1538." The inscription is in what is termed the black letter characters, and is embarrassed by several abbreviations ; but the above seems to be its true reading, as far as can be made out. In the churchyard stands a short square stone pillar, with the outline of a St John's or Maltese cross rudely carved on it. From this as from a centre was measured in ancient times the sanctuary of Torphtchen, which gave, at least, temporary protection to any person accused of crimes less than capital Its limits vfere mark- ed by four stones, each bearing the St John's Cross, erected as near as might be on the cardinal points, east, west, north and south, each a Scotch mile from the central stone in the church- yard adjoining the preceptory. They all still occupy their origi- nal positions. In a field adjoining tlie old peelAike mansion of Kipps, there are the remains of a Druid circle. The central stone, of a large Bize, probably the stone of sacrifice, still occupies its original po- sition, but has been split asunder, which tradition says was done by lightning. Some of the stones that formed the ca7i^<^ V^ic\^ LINLITHGOW. ^ to MNLITHOOWSHIRE. been broken and removed, in order to give place to the pi yet the outline of the circle nnay still be traced, which hai of considerable extent. There is an upright stone at nc distance, connected, probably, with this ancient place of su] tious worship, but of which the express use is not now know On the top of Bowden Hill are the traces of a camp, \ deep trench surrounding it. Some antiquarians term it a B camp ; but its circular, or rather oval shape, scarcely pern to be regarded as Roman. Some term it Danish, which least equally improbable, as this district was never peculiarly ject to the incursions of those invaders. Tradition gives i formation respecting it, and history is equally silent. O Lochcote Hills, in the immediate vicinity, there is a large and not Tar from it have been found several stone- coffins, i being opened, were found to contain human bones. A ver and uncertain tradition speaks of some bloody battles having fought in this neighbourhood, but states nothing as to the or the parties between whom the contest was waged. On the rising grounds above the Loggie Burn, there we veral stone coffins found a few years ago, of a very simph st ruction, being merely thin stones set on edge, to mar length and breadth of the grave, with one long flat stone laid upon them ; the bottom being merely the natural s£ which that ridge is composed. Nothing is known respectii time or cause of these sepultures, beyond the usual vague trs of battles in times immemorial. Bridge Castle still remains in nearly its original cor though shorn of its original splendour. It was formerly of the Earls of Linlithgow, and still shows remains of it importance in a few trees of great age and considerable w especially in height, by which it is partially surrounded. About two miles to the south-west, may, by diligent s discovered the ruins of the foundation of Ogilface Castle of the ancient family of De Bosco, Barons of Ogilface. length into the hands of the Earls of Linlithgow, anr fall of that family, ceased to exist as a barony, and portions to different proprietors, the chief of whom i Buchanan, Esq. It must have been a place of so though of no great size, as appears from the outline the foundation, as far as that can be still traced* Bedlormie has also been a place of considerable TORPHICHEN. 51 some strength. Its general structure resembles that of the Border peels, consisting of a single square tower, the under storey of which is constructed with a vault or stone arch, nearly 6re-proof, for greater security against sudden and desperate assaults. Such is also the structure of Kipps, on a smaller scale. Modem Buildings.— Of these there are none of any peculiar importance, except perhaps Wallhouse, the seat of W. D. Gil- Ion, Esq., and that at present being built by Mr Hume at Lochcote, which, when finished, will be an ornament to the dis- trict. There are of mills one for oats alone, one for oats and barley, two lint-mills, and two woollen-mills, all generally well employed. III. — Population. The census of 1841 may be taken, as giving an accurate view of the parish at present : Population residing in villages,— Torphichen, 490 ; Blackridge, 94, . 524 the country, about . . 893 1417 The average of births, deaths, and marriages cannot be exactly ascertained, owing to the migrations to, and connections with jother adjoining parishes, but may be estimated at about Births, 24; deaths, 16 ; marriages, 5, annually. The average number of persons under 15 years of age, . 505 betwixt lo and dO, . dS5 dJ and 50, . 259 5J and 70, . 143 above 70, . .68 There are no resident nobility, and very few families of inde- pendent fortune residing in the parish. The number of proprie- tors of land of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards, 25. IV. — Industry. Rent of Land, — The average rent of arable land, about L. I per acre ; average rent of grazing, L. 3 per ox or cow per annum. Wages. — Rates of labour average Is. 8d. per day summer; Is. dd. winter for men, and for women about lOd. summer and winter. Live-stock. — The breeds of sheep and cattle are of the common kind. A few of the Ayrshire cattle have been introduced, and some improvement in that respect is taking place. The chief im- provement in agriculture of which the district is susceptible, and which indeed it requires, is draining, much of the land being very wet. Some progress is making in this branch also ; but the want of .resident landholders, and of disposable capital, must tend greatly to ^impede agricultural improvement. The general du!c^vWv^NR?!)a«« 52 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. is fourteen or nineteeD years. The farms are not large ; a st}1e of farm-boilding corresponds ; some of them, howereri a rather superior order. Quarries. — There are two limestone, one sandstone, an granite quarries ; and there was once a quarry or mine of stone on the bank of the Avon, near Torphichen bridge, I has not been wrought for some years. The two limestone qu of Cathlaw and Bowden have alreadv been noticed, as alai coal mine on Hilderston, on Kipps, and on Bridge-Castle e It is said also that coal may be obtained on the Bridgehouse party. Produce. — The average amount of raw produce raised ii parish has not been ascertained, and cannot be stated. Manufactures, — The only branches of manufacture in the pa if such they can be termed, are two flax mills, and one mil the manufacture of wool, part of which is wrought into shawL V. — Parochial Economy. Market^Toum — There is no market-town in the parish; nearest is that of Bathgate, distant from Torphichen village a two miles and a-haif. Linlithgow is little more than four t and three-quarters distant. There are two villages in the pf Torphichen and Blackridge. Aleans of CommuHication.^^The means of communication joyed by the parish are, the turnpike-road from Linlithgr Bathgate, about two miles and a-half of which is within T chen ; that from Linlithgow to Glasgow by Armadale, abo and a-half of which is within Torphichen ; and about thrr of the middle road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, passing the west end of the parish. The parish roads are kept i in a very good condition ; and are upheld by an assessn the land at the rate of L. 2 each ploughgate, which is at seventy acres. Eccksiastical State. — The parish church is situated the village of Torphichen, its eastern gable resting on preceptory. It is within about a mile of the east end fish, consequently is by no means convenient for a ve tent towards the west. As, however, the eastern f most populous, the church is tolerably convenient fo thirds of the population. It was built in 1756. It i modation for about 450. Being allocated to the di tors of land and their tenants, its sittings are free TORPHICHEN. 53 but cannot be let to any others, except by private bargain between the parties themselves. There are about fifty-eight sittings not allocated, in what are called the table-seats, where, consequently, the poor may sit free. The manse was built above 100 years ago, and enlarged about thirty years ago, since which time it has obtained no repairs. The glebe is above eleven acres, only six of which are arable. It lets in grass for about L. 13. The stipend is L. 150, of which L. 25, 7s. is granted by the Exchequer. There has been a new church built by subscription at Black- ridge. It was opened for public worship on the first Sabbath of June 1838. A minister hasf been recently chosen for it, who is to be supported by the seat-rents and collections, by which it is hoped that about L. 60 will be obtained. It cannot yet be stated what number of people may attend the church at Blackridge, as it is not yet in full operation, consequently the respective numbers of Churchmen and Dissenters in that district cannot be stated. The attendance at the parish church is almost equal to the amount of accommodation afforded by the church, and is very regular. The average amount of communicants is 350. Average church collec- tions for charitable purposes, L. 25 ; for religious purposes, L. 12. Education. — There are three schools in the parish, of which two are parochial, and one unendowed. The branches of instruction generally taught in each are, reading, writing, arithmetic, mensu- ration, book-keeping, and rarely Latin. The salary of the paro- chial schoolmaster at Torphichen is the maximum ; at Blackridge L. 29 of a mortification and 100 merks. Libraries. — There are two parochial libraries in the parish, one at Torphichen, the other at Blackridge, both of which are pretty well supplied with books, well selected, and carefully perused. Friendly Societies, — There is one Friendly Society. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 18 ; the sum allotted to each varies considerably, but the average, including house- rents, is about L. 4, 14s. 6d. per annum, or about Is. 9d. weekly. The annual amount of church-door collections is about L. 25 ; from sums mor« iified, or otherwise disposed at interest, there is obtained about Lb 25 ; and the heritors have assessed themselves voluntarily ta the amount of about L.35 per annum, making the sum annually expended for the maintenance of the poor about L. 85. It is ta be regretted, that the lofty and generous reluctance to receive pa- rochial aid, formerly characteristic of the poor^ is dft.<^!^^c2^^K^^ ^^1::^^ 54 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. also, that, instead of being received as a boon, it is begiDDU be demanded as a right, — than which nothing can be mwt structive to genuine charity. This is to be ascribed chiefly tc non-residence of the proprietors, which diminishes the cbu door collections, dries up the springs of private charity, di away the local wealth, and, abating the demand for labour, ki wages low, and prevents the labouring classes from rismg al ^he pressure of necessity, and the near approach of poverty. April 1 84a PARISH OF CARRIDEN. PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWBBDO ' THE REV. DAVID FLEMING, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name.— 'The modern name of the parish is Carriden das' '^ De excidio Britanniae," a. d. 560, it is written / ForeduHy the Scottish historian, who lived about the calls the village that was in existence in his days K in Richard of Cirencester's History of Roman Br about 1338, the orthography is Ccerridden. The ' stood to be of Celtic or ancient British derivation^ the relative position of the then existing village a^ tion, or the speci6c character of its locality. ( Caledonia, represents it as being the same wi Eden^ which, in the British language of Roman t on the wing^ or prqjecHan like a wing. Extent^ {fc.-^ According to Forrest's survey nished in 1817, the length of the parish from es tute miles, and nearly 2 furlongs ; and the bre south wants half a furlong of 2 miles ; the nun which it contains being 424. It is bounded parish of Abercorn ; on the west, by the parish on the north, by the Forth ; and on the so Linlithgow ; presenting the appearance of figure, the longest side stretching along CAURIDEN. 55 Topographical Appearances, — The surface is very unequal, ris- ing from the shore by a quick ascent, with a varied undulating form for about a mile, and then in general declining to the south. The most elevated ground lies towards the south-western part of the parish, near its junction with Linlithgow and Bo'ness, form^ ing part of the Irongath ♦ hills, or what is vulgarly named Ghwr^ otore-enfj and subsiding in an eastern direction by a gradual de^ clivity. The highest point is 519 feet above the level of the sea^ or high water of spring tides. There are no natural cavities ; but the ground has been excavated to a considerable extent in the north-west of the parish for coals and ironstone, in consequence of which, by the settling of the superincumbent strata in the old wastes, the surface was at one place broken into a number of small concave cisterns, which in the course of agricultural improvement have been filled up and levelled; and within the last twenty or thirty years, several instances have occurred in different places of the ground suddenly giving way and leaving large holes in the open field. The coast along the Forth, including its windings, extends to about three miles and a-half, having, through a considerable portion of the line, at high water mark, a margin of sand and cal- careous mixture several feet broad, thence stretching out to low water-mark, for several hundred yards, in a sleechy flat, composed of alluvial soil, with more or less of sand, and showing here and there a small bank formed of drifted oyster shells. Of late, ow- ing to the encroachments of the sea, the sandy margin has been undergoing a change, and becoming more of a rough stony descrip- tion. Occasionally there is an appearance of rock. At two places the land points into the Frith, — the one, called Bridgeness, near the western extremity, — the other forming the eastern extre- mity of the parish, named Blackness, a rather remarkable rocky promontory on which Blackness Castle is situated. Within a few yards of the shore the ground rises into a steep bank, ranging from the junction with Bo'ness parish, till it falls into a gentle acclivity near the church, to the east of which it again becomes more abrupt, and so continues along the whole coast eastward, till it loses itself in the point of Blackness. There is no good bathing-ground along the coast except at Blackness, though not a few families from different quarters inland * Otberwiae called Airncoth. Sibbald says Uiere is a tradition , that a battle was fought there between the Romans and the natives under Argadus, and thence the hill took the name of Argad. 56 LINLITUOOWSHIRB. annually resort to the shore of the Frith, for the benefit of I and of the sea air. It is difficult, except at high tides, t a sufficient depth of water without wading to a consider! tance, and the footing in the soft yielding sleech is by ik agreeable ; besides, the water is not a little muddy, especiall it is in any degree agitated : and, sometimes, considerabl tities of peat moss in large coherent masses or in a pu)| are deposited on the shore, which has been floated down t in the process of clearing the extensive moss fields at Blair mond and other places in its vicinity. Meteorology, — The prevailing winds are from the soi and west. Next to these in frequency is the east wind, verest storms of snow are commonly from the east and noi The following table gives the number of days in each moi ing which the wind blew from any particular point of the < in 1834 : N. N. E. E. S. E. 8. s. w. w. January, 1 4 1 ]5 10 February, . 2 23 3 JVIarch, 2 1 16 11 April, 2 4 7 4 3 9 May, 1 1 8 1 4 9 7 June. 1 1 3 12 11 July, 1 9 ]3 1 1 7 5 August, 1 8 1 3 9 9 September, 4 8 1 9 8 October, 1 1 17 6 November, . 5 14 f December, . 2 1 17 1 TotaJ, . 6 15 57 8 17 151 Easterly, 80. Westerly, 262 The average height of the thermometer and baron month in the same year stands as under : Therm. Barom. January, . 40.06 29.1 July, February, , 39.32 29.4 Augiist, . March, . . 41.12 29^ September, April, . . 44.43 29.45 October, . May, . 53.32 29.7 Norember, June, . . 57.90 29.15 December, Average for the year, thermometer, 48^50 ; The hottest days were, July 4th and 7th, whr stood at 66^ On August 17th, the notatiot July 2d, dd, 22d, August 2d, 14th, 15th, 16tl and 20th, it was 64^. The greatest degree ' cember 19th, when the mercury indicated 29' days were December 18th and £Oth, the de CARRIDBN. 67 next to these were January 29th, November 23d, December 2dd and 27th, the mercury standing at 32^. The lowest range of the barometer was on December 1st, when it showed 28.08, the wind being south-west, and the thermometer 44° ; the highest range was on December 23d, being 31.01, when the wind blew from the west, and the thermometer stood at 32*. The observations to which the foregoing tables and statements refer, it may be proper to add, were taken about a mile from the coast, at a slight elevation above the sea. The climate is in general dry, pleasant, and healthful, though variable. Hydrography. — The Frith of Forth bounds the parish on the north, to the extent of about three miles in a straight line, the breadth at high water averaging about four miles, with an average depth of 9i fathoms in the channel. The water is never very transparent, ^nd when in a state of commotion, it is turbid and mud«- dy, of a lightish brown tinge, from the quantity of alluvial matter which it holds in solution. Its saltness is considerably diluted by the fresh current descending from above, but is nevertheless of quality suj9icient to furnish a productive material for the manufac- ture of excellent salt. There are two small streams that traverse the parish, both of very insignificant dimensions, viz. Blackness burQ, which rises iD the Irongath hills, and after running eastward, joins the Forth on the east side of the castle of Blackness, where it separates the parish from Abercorn ; and Carriden burn, which passes into the Frith on the west side of Carriden House, to the situation of which it adds considerable attractions by the natural beauty of its banks, having formerly served as an outlet to a small loch on the estate of Grange, that has been drained and is now under cultivation. Geology and Mineralogy. — The general characteristic of the mi- neral structure is of the coal formation. Passing along the coast from the westward, we fall in with trap or hard whinstone at Cow- denhill, Bridgeness, and CuiTabouts. A little farther to the east^ between the old manse and Burnfoot, there is a bed of light grey sandstone, which dips to the south-west with a declination of 11^. About a quarter of a mile onward, shale and indurated clay, with some bands of calcareous sandstone, appear at the surface within the sea mark, the dip continuing to the south-west. A dislocation in the strata appears to have taken place about a mile farther east- ward, the rock consisting of clay sandstone vv\k&CL\%?w?3^'«swV^2^^ 58 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. in an opposite direction to the north-east. Aboat 400 yards of the village of Blackness, a bed of calcareous ironstone crop on the beach, dipping into the sea in the same direction, wl when carefully prepared, forms a hydraulic cement of a very * rior quality : for which purpose it was wrought some years : and is again in contemplation of being wrought. This stratni covered with a strong shale, otherwise called bleOf varying in th ness from 1 to 20 feet, interspersed with balls of clay ironsli the under layer being of the kind called alum shale, and sepan from the upper by a thin band of ironstone. The alum shale formerly employed in the manufacture of soda, but the work been lately discontinued and dismantled. About twenty ya farther into the sea, a freestone rock of a rough granular texti rises to the surface, and runs in the same direction as the cemi stone, forming the covering towards the castle hill, which const entirely of trap rock, declining by 12^% also to the north-er In the interior, to the south-west of the parish, trap is chiefl be met with. There are many seams of coal in the parish, some of have been wrought at their crops or outbursts, centuries ago coal-field that is in the western division of the parish is si to extend across the Frith, and to be connected with ' formation in the opposite district in the county of Fii strata are known to the depth of 135 fathoms, havi. passed by the miners in sinking pits and other open the coal mines. The deepest seam that is known is ' coal, rising to the north-east along the sea shore. ^ and the smithy seam come out to the surface a sho to the east of Burnfoot The foul coal and red cc to the west of the road leading to Linlithgow ; main coal is only in the south-west of the parish, as sufficient cover for this seam to the east and nortt field passes through the south-west boundary of to the parishes of Borrowstownness and Linlithgow, division of it, the strata dip nearly north, with a de foot in three. In approaching the north, the dip round more to the west ; in the middle of the north-west, with a declination of ] in 6 to 1 in ' The following is a journal of the strata passe ing the engine or mingle, and the burn pits, v in both, with a slight variation in the proporti CAtlRlDEN. 59 Path. Ft. Id< Diluvial soil, yellow clay with sandi . .450 Sandstone, 2 Splintyooal, ..023 Sandstone, . . 3 6 Blea with ironstone bands and balls, . 3 4 2 Sandstone, . .724 Blea, . . I 1 10 Western main coal, having two bandsofstonethrough.it, 8 Hard whinstone, . 2 4 3 Blea, . 5 8 Hard whinstone, . 8 4 5 Soft whinstone, • 13 Redstone band, quarts rocki 3 9 Soft whinstone, . 115 Hard whinstone, 3 Sandstone, . . 3 6 Red coal, . 1 2 11 Sandstone, . . 2 II Blea with sandstone bands, 8 3 9 Sandstone, . . 1 5 10 Blea, . . 2 2 Parrot coal, bad quality, Blea, Foul coal, Blea with sandstone bands Hard sandstone. Rough sandstone* Blea, Eastern main coal> Sandstone, Blea, Sandstone, Blea, Coal, Sandstone, Blea, . '. Sandstone, Blea,, Smithy coal. Sandstone, Blea, Calcareous ironstone, Blea, Carsy coal, Path. Ft. lu. 1 6 3 1 9 a, 2 2 9 4 1 10 4 4 9 1 1 4 2 1 1 4 9 2 7 3 7 3 10 1 2 5 2 4 7 3 3 6 2 11 4 J 1 7 1 6 1 11 1 4 There are several dikes that throw the strata up, partly to the south, but generally to the north. These dikes vary from one to twenty fathoms, running chiefly from south-east to nortli*west, and may be termed slips rather than dikes, as they seldom occa- sion any rise, and merely disjoin the metals without producing much alteration in their relative position. To the east of Burn- foot, after passing the crop of the Carsy coal, it is thought that no coal is to be found. No attempt by boring has been made to ascertain what minerals exist beneath the surface ; but it is sup- posed that the strata lie beneath the coal measures. It is a cu- rious fact, that in a district where so many seams of coal occur, whinstone should be found so abundant. The Irongath hills consist of hard whinstone, resting on the coal strata ; nor does it present itself only in crops on the tops of eminences, but is found in regular seams between, and sometimes even in actual contact with the coal. In these hills, there is a bed of coal, varying from one to eight or ten feet in thickness, which has whinstone both for its roof and pavement ; and between the western main coal and the red coal, the seam of whinstone is about 70 feet thick. The fossil remains that have been found in the coal formation consist of reeds of diflerent kinds. Shells and impressions of leaves are also of more or less frequent occurrence ; and a few years ago, the workmen fell in with a beautiful specimen of that curious extinct genus of fossil plants, the lepidod»adx5JS^- 60 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. fortunately, only a snaall fragment of the interesting relic recovered. Ironstone appears to have been wrought in fori times to some extent to the vrest of the church. The alluvial deposits in the west part of the parish, near shore, consist of sea sand and shells resting on blue clay and mi the clay resting on the coal formation ; and in the soutb-W€ there is found yellow brick clay, and yellow clay with sand a gravel. The soil is of all varieties, from that of a light san texture to the richest loam and heavy clay. The subsoil is al very various, in some places being free and open, in others of rocky description, and in others tilly and retentive. The boi ders that have been met with, are trap, but different from that the neighbourhood, and must have come from a distance, the weight varying from three or four cwt. to four or five tons. Botany. — There is but a small portion of the parish covert with wood, and that chiefly ornamental, planted for the most pa on declivities and other parts of the surface, inapplicable to f' usual purposes of husbandry. The prevalent sorts of trees the plane, the ash, the elm, the beech, the larch, the oak, the lime, which are all promiscuously intermixed, and see equally adapted to the soil. The full-grown trees, which a few iu number, are chiefly in the neighbourhood of the ol sion-houses ; and as a proof of the geniality of the clinr vigour of the soil, it may be stated, that, within a few f from high water mark, immediately below Carriden Houf trees of respectable size and appearance stand strong ar in growth, stretching their branches and foliage over t^ full tide. II. — Civil History. Accounts of the Parish. — Several incidental notice be met with in the works of antiquarian writers, fror eastern termination of Antoninus's wall, and the si cient Roman works ; but the only detailed accou former Statistical Account, with which the write are to be found in Sir Robert Sibbald's History of Chalmers's Caledonia, and Penney's Topograp rical Account of Linlithgowshire. Historical Events. — The only events of a^ have a reference to the. history of Blackness royal fortress, which never appears to have much importance as a military station, though d CARRIDEN. 61 it is one of tbe few ancient fortified places in Sootland that are sti])ulated to be preserved in a state of repair. In 1548, under the regency of the Earl of Arran, the castle was garrisoned by the French, whom Henry II. sent over under the command of Monsieur D*Ess^, to support the pretensions which he derived from the matrimonial alliance that was contemplated between the Princess Mary and his eldest son the Dauphin. When Mary of Guise was promoted to be Regent, the castle again came into the possession of the French; but on the I4th April 1560, it was taken from them by the Sheriff of Linlithgow. In February 1571, it was manned with a garrison by Lord Claud Hamilton, a zealous partisan of the Queen; and it appears to have been held in her interest till February 1573, when it was delivered up to the Be* gent, the Earl of Morton, along with 50,000 double ducats, being the Queen's dowry, which had been brought . ft*om France by James Kirkaldy the preceding month, and with the written docu- ments relative thereto. During the occupancy of the castle by the Queen's troops in April 1572, an inroad was made by them upon the opposite coast, when they ** spoulzeit" the towns, and returned to Blackness with considerable booty. On two occasions during the same period, an attempt was made upon the castle by the opposite party. In the same month and year as last men* tioned, a ship of war, well furnished with artillery, was sent from I^ith to ** asseige^ the castle, but was driven from the station where she had cast anchor, with great danger, by the violence of the weather ; and in the year following, an attack was made to carry the place by surprise, which failed of success by ** the gar- rison being on the alert." ♦ During the troublous times of the struggle between Presbytery and Episcopacy, the castle appears to have been employed chiefly for tbe purposes of a state prison, and was the place of confine- ment where many, who were obnoxious to Government for their known adherence to the principles of religious and civil liberty, ' were immured. By a decreet of the secret council of James VL in February 1584, the celebrated Andrew Melville was adjudged to be committed to ward in the Castle of Blackness for declining their authority to decide upon the dgjctrine taught in a public dis- course which he had delivered at St Andrews. After the warrant of committal had been served upon him, however, he made his escape to Berwick. During the same year, the clergy in and near * Diurnal of Occurrents. 62 LINLITHGOWSHIRE* Edinburgh, having been apprized that measures prejudicial to ** 1 Kirk and its discipline" were to be resolved on at a meeting Parliament appointed to be held in May, prevailed upon Da^ Lindsay, minister at Leith, who was most acceptable to t court, to intercede with the king for the interposition of his auth rity till the Assembly should be heard in the matter ; but, wh he was entering the gate of the palace in discharge of his coi mission, he was apprehended and carried to Blackness. Thei also, the ministers of Edinburgh were condemned to a tempora confinement in 1587, for refusing to pray for the Queen's delii ranee ; their refusal being <* not simply to pray for her, but for t preservation of her life, as if she had been innocent of the crin laid to her charge." In 1594, the Earl of Angus, one of the € communicated Lords, was required to deliver himself up to ci tody in Blackness, till he should undergo a trial, but refusing, i subsequently with the others foun4 guilty of high treason. Pre August 1605 till towards the close of the following year, Jo Welsh, minister of Ayr, who had married John Knox's daughi Elizabeth, along with five other clergymen, were confined in t castle for refusing to condemn the Assembly that had met a shi time before at Aberdeen, when they were ** banished the kinj dominions upon the pain of death." About the same time, asti prisoner of a different description, Gilbert Brown, abbot of N Abbey, ** a trafficking and seducing Papist," who had been appi hended by Lord Cranstoun, was lodged for a few days withir walls, till he was transported to the castle of Edinburgh. 1624, William Rigg, one of the bailies of Edinburgh, wa' prived of his office of magistrate, condemned to be impriso' Blackness Castle, and fined in L.50,000 Scots for challeng doctrine taught by the Episcopal clergy. He was charged ** the chief ringleader of the non-conformitants in Edinbui that he contributed liberally to the printing of books which the course of conformitie.'^ The second Lord Bargen; Hamilton), who was served heir to his father, the first lo' 17th October 1662, as the retour in Thomson's Ab' bears, ^^ in terris dominicalibus de Carriden, Law, et D maneriei loco de Carriden, infra baroniam de Carrid prisoner in the castle in November 1679. In his indie' the Court of Justiciary, dated 24th February 168C alia charged with ** corresponding with John Weh of the former worthy of the name, ^^ a factious trumj: CARBIDEN. 63 and treason, entertaining notour rebels in bis house, publicly maintaining the principles of Naphtali, Jus Populi, Lex Rex, and declaring that Scotland would never be well till it wanted Episco- pacy, and the present government of the Church was destroyed, as unfit for the nation;" but the trial was never brought on from want of evidence. This nobleman entered heartily into the Re- volution, raised a regiment of 600 infantry for the public service in 1689, and died on the 25th May 1693. From an act of the Scots Parliament, we learn, that another sufferer in those times of religious persecution was John Hay of Lochloy, who was in 1683 committed prisoner for the space of thirteen months, " pairtly in the tolbuith of Edinburgh, and pairtly in the castle of Blackness." His offence was his hearing the nonconforming ministers. There are still attached to the castle a governor and lieutenant- governor, but both non-resident. When the former Statistical Ac- count was written, the garrison consisted of 2 gunners, 1 serjeant, 2 corporals, and 12 or 15 privates. Lately, the barrack furniture has been removed, and now the only inmates are an inferior officer, and his wife and daughter. Eminent Characters. — Colonel James Gardiner, who fell in the battle of Prestonpans in 1 745, and whose life, as recorded by Dod-« dridge, affords so impressive and affecting an example of the power of divine grace and the influence of Christian example, was born in this parish at Burnfoot, where are yet pointed out the window of the apartment in which it is alleged that he first drew the breath of life, and two trees, an apple and a pear, said to have been plant- ed by his hands, but which are now in a state of great decay. In the new churchyard lie interred the remains of Dr John Roe- buck, a native of Sheffield in England, and projector of the exten- sive iron- works at Carron. Besides originating other important establishments connected with the arts in different parts of the island, this ingenious and enterprising individual was united in partnership with the celebrated James Watt in perfecting his im- provements upon the steam-engine ; and the story is told, that the Grst time the great engineer succeeded in setting his working mo- del agoing was in Dr Roebuck's dining-room, who was then resi* dent in Kinneil House, as lessee of the Duke of Hamilton's coal and salt-works near Borrowstounness. The late Sir John Lees, Private Secretary to the Marquis of Townshend when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, and who afterwards filled the office of secretary to the post-office in Dublin^ ««&vcwVc ^& 64 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. youth brought up in this parish. He was emineoily sueoei life, and affords a memorable example of the dtsttnguishet in society to which the careful cultivation and judicious appi of superior talents may raise their possessor. He was ere baronet on the 21st June 1804. As proprietor of the estate of Carriden, the late Rear-/ Sir George J. Hope, K. C. B., became connected with the above twenty years ago. He was a very distinguished oflSc highly appreciated iu the service for his exemplary discipli decision, promptitude, and bravery, and his veneration for n He entered the navy at the age of fifteen, in the year 178 after passing through the usual gradations, attained th< of captain in 1793, and that of rear-admiral in the year During the above period, he commanded the Romulus, Al and Leda frigates, the Majestic, Theseus, and Defence sc fours, being present at the battle of Trafalgar in the sh named, and served as captain of the Baltic fleet during ]& the three subsequent years. In the year 1812, he went to tl miralty, which he quitted temporarily in the following auti bring over the Russian fleet to England during the Frenc sion of that country. In 1813, he held the chief command Baltic, and at its termination returned to the Admiralty, wl remained as confidential adviser to the First Lord till his di ^he 2d May 1818; thus closing a life spent in unremitting •service in the discharge of the duties of the highest posts oaval administration. Land'Oumers. — The Duke of Hamilton ; the Earl of Hop Sir James Dalyell, Bart of Binns ; James Hope, Esq. o den, Post-CSaptain in the Royal Navy ; James S. Cadell Grange ; and James Johnstone, Esq. of Straiten, are the proprietors of land. ' Captain Hope holds the place of tor ; but the greatest amount of superiority and the pat the church belong to the Duke of Hamilton. Parochial Regiiters. — These are very voluminous, anc' of excellent preservation. They have, upon the whole with great regularity. Seven volumes contain the col disbursements for the poor, from 1688 down to the j without any interruption but between 1708 and 17] sioD minutes occupy six volumes, commencing with dated 27rh January 1691, and have been regularly only two exceptions, the one amounting to about' tv CARRIDBN. 65 Other to five years. The registers of baptisms and marriages in- clude four volumes, the first entry of baptism being dated 1687, that of marriage, 16b8 ; and both records coming down to the present day, with only one interval in the former of about seven years, and one of about one year in the latter. The first volume of the session-minutes, among some other items besides the ses^ sional transactions, contains *^a just double of the mortification given by the Lairds of Grang, of a house or houses in Muirhouse, for a schoole to the parish of Caridden, 1636," the family name at that time being Hamilton; also, /^ mortification be Sir Williani Dick of Braid to Mr Andrew Keir and his successors, ministers of Caridden, of two roodes of land, 1642." Besides these, there are several odd volumes, and a register of deaths and burials ; but 3ince 1 806, it is very partial and defective. Antiquities. — The ancient Roman wall, built between the Forth and the Clyde in the reign of the Emperor Antoninus Pius by his X^egate Loliius Urbicus, a. d. 140, is, by the almost universal con^ sent of antiquarians, understood to have had its eastern termina- tion in this parish. Three different places have been assigned as the terminating point, Carriden, Walton, and Blackness. In the summary of the ninth chapter of Gildas, *^ De excidio Britanniae, A. D. 560," it is expressly asserted that the wall commenced at " Kair Eden ;"♦ and this opinion is adopted by Foredun, Richard of Cirencester, Gordon in his " Itinerarium Septentrionale," pub^ lished in 1726, and by Roy in his ** Military Antiquities of th^ Romans in North Britain," published in 1793. Bede, in his *< Eccles. Hist Gentis Aiiglorum," written in 737, affirms that the wall began about two miles west of Abercurnig,f i. e. Aber- com, at a place called, in the Pictish language, "Peanuab^l," and in the English, *< Penueltum." If the distance be correct, the ** Peanuahel" of the Picts, and «♦ Penueltum" of the English, must correspond with Blackness, which is exactly two miles from Abercorn. In accordance with this opinion, Sir Robert Sibbald, in his "Hist. Inq," printed in 1707, says, "the wall runs from * The wtirds in Gildas are, "Videlicet, ut inter duo roaria murum per roilllapos. soum plurima trans insulam instruerent a mari Scotise usque ad mare Hibemic (i. e» a Kair £klen) ciyitate antiquissima, duorum ferme inillium spatio a Monasterio Abercamig (quod nunc yocatur Abercorn) ad occldentem, tendens contra occiden- tein, juxta urbem Alclutb.*^ t The language of Bede bears a striking resemblance to that of Gildas, except in the proper namfes?— '^ Cujus operis hodie oertissima yesdeia cemere licet Incipit avtem duorum ferme milium spatio « Monasterio Abercnmig, ad occidentem, in loop qui serroone Pictorum Peanuahel, lingua autem Anglorum, Penueltum appellatur, e%. miAiiii oontra ocoidentem terminatur jujita urbem Alduit.**— Lib. U Cw^. «Vv LINLITHGOW. ^ 6 6 LINLITHGOWSHIBE. Carriden towards the Castle of Blackness, where it once en just as it did upon Clyde at Dunglass." The ** Peanyahel *^ Penveltum" of Bede, however, he thinks corresponds with present Walton, which, he says, "derived its name from the ^ as it stood upon its track.^' In the former Statistical Accoui the Parish, the wall is said to have terminated at <* Waltov and Camden, in his *< Britannia," Vol. iii. p. 316^ states, " Antoninus Pius's wall may be traced to Carriden, and probt ended at Waltoun, the Penvahl of Bede/' The locality of V ton, however, affords a suflBcient ground of conviction tl though evidently the site of a Roman fort or station, it neit formed the termination of the wall nor stood upon its track ; instead of being situated close upon the shore of the Frith in line of direction obviously taken by the wall from Kinneil Grange, and thereby completing the line of defence, it diver towards the south at a considerable angle to the distance of ab a mile, over irregular ground, and affords no advantage that co recommend it as the last station of so elaborate a work. Besic Walton, instead of being two miles, as it ought to be according Bede's account, is about four miles from Abercorn ; and, inst of being derived from the " Penueltum" of Bede, or from any lation it had to the wall, the name seems to trace its origin t noted well or fountain of water that was constructed there to t ply the military posted at the station, and which, in the mer of the present tenant of the farm, went by the name of the B well, pronounced Scoticd tra//, having been GUed up abov years ago ; and where still, at a little distance from the fon servoir, an unfailing supply of excellent water at all se delivered from a square stone-built conduit, large enougi ceive the body of a man. I am satisfied, in short, that \ terminated either at Carriden or Blackness, and, with probability, at the former, its remains, till very lately, bei' clearly traceable to a small tumulus to the south-east c House, called in modern phrase, the ^* Deacon's Stor farm- steading, little more than a gun-shot to the west mulus, called " Graham's Dyke," affording unquest' dence that this was the identical line of its directior of them forming a most desirable position for compl of defence, besides corresponding most nearly with tt cal description of the more ancient writers upon the r * It ought not, perhaps, to be omitted, that another opinion Im h CARRIDEN. 67 The wall was cespititious, composed of earth or of the materials promiscuously taken from the ditch. " Non tam lapidibus/* says Gildas, "quam cespitibus/' There were nineteen forts erected upon it at certain intervals, the mean distance from station to sta- tion being 3554^ yards, or something more than two English miles, so that an alarm could easily be communicated from one to another on the approach of danger. Roy makes the total length of the wall from Old Kilpatrick church to Carriden to have been 63,980 yards, or 36 miles and 620 yards English, being nearly 39| Roman miles ; a measurement which corresponds very much with that of Gordon. From Dunglass to Blackness, the dis- tance is about 40 English miles. The origin of the appellation " Graham's*' or " Grime's Dyke," which is sometimes given to the wall, seems*not to have been ex- actly determined by antiquaries. According to Horsley, " Gra- ham" in the Gaelic language signifies blacky and, from its appli- cation to a large ditch and rampart that traverses a great part of Northumberland, which is so designated from its dark and sombre appearance in passing through the moors, this wall, he conjectures, may have taken its name from the same circumstance. The pre- vailing use of the appellation in the possessive ca^e, however, would seem to restrict it to the name of a person ; and the common le- gend is, that " Grime," nephew to Eugenius, King of the Scots, with his troops broke through the wall a few miles westward of Falkirk, between Camelon and Castlecary, and had the achieve- ment immortalized by having his name given to the wall as iis vernacular designation. On the south side of the wall, and running in a great measure parallel with it, a military way was constructed for the more con- venient and expeditious communication between the different sta- tions. Roads of a similar description seem to have traversed the country in various directions ; and, from south to north, it would appear that, by means of this kind, a line of connection was main- ject. Nenius, who wrote a. d. 620, says, that the wall commenced at a place called in the British tongue, *'*' Penguaul. which town, in Scottish, is called Cenail, but in English (I e. Saxon) Peneltum.** — *« Cuuail'* is understood to be the same as Kinneil; and its signification in Gaelic, denoting the ** headT or **end,** is supposed to give far- ther indication that the wall termir.ated theie. It is impossible to identify the ** Ce- nair or ♦* Peneltum" of Nenius, if corresponding with the modern Kinneil, with the *' Penueltum** of Bede, as the latter was only two, and the former is seven miles from Abercorn ; but it is by no means improbable that, in the course of its construction, the wall concluded, in the first instance, at Kinneil, and was, at a subsequent period, continued onwards to Carriden. Horsley at first coincides with Nenius in the opi. oion, that Kinneil was the proper termination of the wall, but afterwards seems to •grea Wllb Crordon that it ended at Carriden. OS LINLITHGOWSHIRE. tained tlirough the whole extent of the Roman territories in tain. Richard of Cirencester makes mention of a Roman that proceeded from the wall in North umberland, by which 1 prehend he means the wall built by the Emperor Adrian, by Eildon hills, Borthwick Castle, Muttonhole, Cramond, Quo ferry, and Abercorn, to Carriden, at or near the eastern term tion of Antoninus's wall ; and, several years ago, some remain a causeway were dug up on the ridge that runs from Blacknes the road that leads from Carriden to Walton, to all appearaoc branch from or an integral part of the above-mentioned way. At Carriden various Roman relics have been found at differ times, such as a Vespasian of gold; a stone, described by Gore as having an eagle with expanded wings, holding a corona trim phalis in her bill, and standing in the middle of two Roman vtxx or standards, on one side, and on the other the letters co lULiA, and others so obliterated as to be illegible, which v built in a wall added to the house by Alexander Miln, Esq. then proprietor ; Roman pottery ; an old Roman altar, havir inscription, placed at the time in the garden ; and a brass g or sword, which is now in the Advocates' Library. " Abo years before" the former Statistical Account of the par written, the author says, that, *^ in digging up stones t^ park dike, axes, pots, and several vases, evidently Hor found, and sent to the Advocates' Library." In levelli mulus above Grange House, already referred to, in sp several rude stone coffins with bones in them were four the appearance of the bones, there was reason to belie had been deposited there at a much later date thar the Romans. At the eastern extremity of the parish, on a pror into the Firth, stands the Castle of Blackness, c national fortresses of ancient times, whose preserv teed by the Act of Union, The period of its eref and its history has been very imperfectly recorde ture more characteristic of the warfare of a ruder to the modern improvements in the military art Mansion-Houses. — The mansion-houses of ( and Grange, are fabrics of some antiquity ; the some modern additions, being still occupied f the proprietor; the second attached to a far after being lately put under some repairs, occ CARRIDEN. 69 III. — Population. Population according to census J 81 1, . 1348 J821, . 1429 1831, . 1261 1841, . 1197 The births in 1700 were 25 males, 19 females—deaths, 4 males, 9 females. 1710 36 49 1720 36 36 1730 32 25 1740 8 12 1750 19 18 1760 12 22 1770 18 17 1780 26 22 1790 30 14 1800 22 21 11 8 27 26 23 19 23 18 13 6 19 28 10 13 10 8 10 19 12 14 The greatest number of marriages from 1754 to 1800 inclusive, was m 1763 and 1765, amounting to 19 in each year; the smalU est in 1757, amounting to a The yearly average of births for 7 years before 1835, about 31 marriages, . . 8 Two of the proprietors are resident. The number of those whose property amounts to the yearly value of L.60 and upwards is six. The people are in general industrious, but among some classes there is to be found room for improvement in point of cleanliness, and domestic comfort and accommodation. When dressed ac- cording to their taste, and especially as they are to be seen at church, their appearance is most respectable. IV. — Industry. AgriciiUure. — The number of Scots acres in the parish is 2157 in cultiyation, 2023 incapable of do. 16 under wood, 90 roads, &c. . 28 Smt of Land, — ^The rent of the best land is from L. 4 to L. 5, that of the worst is about L. 1. The average grazing of a milk cow 18 L. 3^ 1 Os. ; of others L. 2, 1 Os. ; and of a sheep 1 Os. per year. Kinds of Stock. — The sheep mostly fancied for fattening are the black-faced; the breed of cattle is chiefly the short-horned; but various sorts from the north are also in much request by the far- mer. The horses are for the most part the Clydesdale. Husbandry. — The style of husbandry in practice is the most approved of the present day. The farmers are most intelligent, enterprising, and active ; and the state of cultivation in which the farms are upheld is of the highest order. Much has h^<^^^'5js>fc^&. Jate to improve and ameliorate i\\^ ^^xWj ^\'8LwwT^^^^ccv^Kw^^^^ ^»^^ 70 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. regulating the fences. Tile^raining has been introdnoed great advantage. Sown grass is often grazed instead of beiqg as being more conducive to keep the land in heart. GrowiB\ turnips has been adopted to a considerable extent, with the i decided benefits to the cultivator. The duration of leasee is nerally for nineteen years. The usual rotation pursued b ths six years. Some of the &rm* buildings are of a superior d In two instances, the thrashing-mills are driven by steam-eagii and the fields, with few exceptions, are well inclosed. Qfiarries and Mines. — There are several quarries of free i whinstone in the parish, but they are only wrought occasionally domestic use. The substrata abound in coal, and coal has bi wrought in the parish from time immemorial. In former til the supply was furnished from the estates of Carriden, Bonbi and Grange. Within the present century, no less than ten di rent pits have been at work, though at difierent times, and al' them within little more than a mile distant from each other* present there are only two in operation, belonging to the I> Hamilton. The seam of coal wrought in the mingle or engine-pit, was the only one at work in 1832, for which year the follow! count is given, is called the Eastern Main coal, and is in about 4 feet thick. There are now (1643) four in operatic workings are situated on the western boundary of tb^ close to that of Borrowstounness, the coal going r name of the Brtdgeness coal in the towns to which i from the name of the pier where it is shipped. 77^ fathoms deep, and the coals are drawn from th' engine to the pit bottom, whence another engine to the surface, the water being pumped up by a thf greater power, erected at the mouth of the pit to witi of the surface, where it escapes by a day-level to th' quantity of coals produced in 1832 was 9780 19,062 tons chows, and 4363 tons small coal. 7 ninety-five men, many of them residing in the ps townness, employed io hewing the coal, which is workings in corves or baskets set upon hurleys, ' plate railway, driven by their children or puf from which the engine below takes it to the pit Iters are paid Ste. IQd. per ton for working the per ton for chows, and 8d. per ton for small i his putter may put out 1 ^ ton great coal, w CARRIDEN. 71 day. The small coal is quite unsaleable ; the greater part of it )s» of course, left in the waste, and, were it not for the use of the salt- pans, none of it would be brought up at all. The pit is about a mile from the shore, the coals being conveyed to the place of ship- ment by a railway. The coal dips generally to the west at the rate of 1 in 7 or 8 feet Before the present dip workings com- menced, which was in 1830, the workings were above the level of the pit- bottom, reaching to the south of the pit about 900 yards, where the coal gets below the Irongath hills, in a direction nearly straight south, dipping to the north in some places at the rate of 1 in 3. But it became so mixed with stone and troubled with dikes, which were generally up to the south, that the working of it was discontinued. The quality of this seam of coal is highly esteemed. In 1833, the Burn pit was sunk from the main to the smithy coal, a seam lying 12 fathoms deeper, and about 2 feet 7 inches thick* Fishery. — A stake-net for taking salmon was erected several years ago in the Frith, on the property of Captain Hope of Car- riden, having three pockets or chambers ; and the fishing has occa- sionally been pretty successful. Produce, — :The following is given as an approximation to the gross amount of produce : Produce of grain of all kinds, poUtoes, turnips, &c. hay and pasture, gardens, coal mines, salt-pans, L. 75.53 1200 2376 250 7000 1000 L. 19,379 Manufactures. — There were six salt-pans working in the village of Grange-pans in 1834, which made about 23,000 bushels of salt annually ; now there are only four at work. In the same village, in 1832 and 1833, and the two following years respectively, 7J3|, 312, and 552 quarters of barley were malted. At Brickfield, near Blackness, a valuable field of clay, averaging 12 feet deep, has been wrought for some years past, which, in 1834, gave employ- ment to twelve men, and then yielded at an average yearly 150,000 bricks, 200,000 roofing tiles, and 200,000 draining tile3. Since then, the demand for the latter has been greatly on the increase* Some years ago, there was at Blackness a chemical work in <^ra- tioD, for the manufacture of soda. Barilla ash, and Romaac<^52&l5^^:^.^ 72 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. a similar establishment at Bridgeness for the manufketareof ▼! or sulphuric acid ; and another in Grangepans for the OHUii ture of sal-ammoniac ; but all three are now extinct- Namgatioru — There are no fessels belonging to the parbh ; about '300 coasters, from 20 to 100 tons, from different poiti Scotland, and ten foreign vessels, from 50 to 100 tons, ship ei yearly at Bridgeness. In 1834, about 400 tons of Leith man were imported at Blackness by two neighbouring farmers at per ton, employing eight vessels at 50 tpns each ; and twelve f sels from 20 to 60 tons were employed by the proprietor of I brick-work in exporting the produce of his manufacture. TIm are also occasionally other importations of lime and manure I agricultural purposes. V. — Parochial Economv. Market-Town^ Sfc. — The nearest market-town is Borrowstoui ness, which is about one mile and a-half distant from the church ; is also the post-town. Linlithgow lies about three miles dtsts to the south-west. There are five villages in the parish — Gran pans, Bridgeness, Cuffabouts, (supposed to be a corruption Causeway foot, the original name,) Muirhouses, and Blackness,- four last being of very little extent. Roads. — The turnpike- road from Linlithgow to South C ferry passes through the south-eastern section of the p8 nearly a mile and a-half, but no public vehicle travels Another line of public road is &t present in the act of from Grangemouth by Borrowstownness, diverging fron nt the church of Carriden, and designed to meet the r mentioned at Champany. A railway, about a mile having an inclined plane on which the empty waggons np by the descent of those that are loaded, was constr? years ago for the purpose of conveying the coals from the pier of Bridgeness. The other roads in the pari ciently convenient for the purposes of communication most part, kept in a good state of repair. Harbours. — The pier of Bridgeness was some tended by the proprietor about fifty yards further i secur6 a greater depth of water for the vessels tb and affords'cxcellent accommodation for the purp< was erected, the trade to which it is serviceable bf tion of coals and salt, and the occasional importati limestone. In former times Blackness was a hp CARRIDEN. 73 rable importance, being the sea-port of Linlithgow, the county town. Sir Robert Sibbald, in his " History of Linlithgowshire" in 1 707, describes it as <^ a harbour for all sorts of ships, where ihey have a large custom-house, and warehouses with other accom« modations for merchants." ** In the range along Bo'ness and the South Ferry they had," as he knew in his time, " some 36 ships belonging to them, though in all that tract south of the Frith there is no part for ships to lie at but Blackness. They traded with Holland, Bremen, Hambucgh, Queensbui^h, and Dantzic. Many rich merchants lived there, and the cities of Glasgow, Stir- ling, and Linlithgow had great trade thence." Now the har- bour is in ruins, the custom-house converted into lodgings ap- propriated chiefly for the use of sea-bathers in summer, and the only merchandize known to the place is the shipment of a few tons of bricks and tiles, and the importation of a few tons of lime and manure. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands upon the coast, dis- tant about two miles from the eastern and southern, and one mile from the western extremity of the parish ; and only one or two families can be said tp be at a distance of more than two miles from it. It was built in 1766, the old church having stood about half-a mile distant, in close proximity to the mansion-house of Carriden, where the old church-vard still remains. The church was never properly seated by the heritors, but left to be occupied very much at the pleasure of the parishioners, so that, though ful- ly seated, the workmanship is but indifferent; and the sittings were possessed in a great measure promiscuously, as they had been erected or purchased by the parties till 1S26, when a formal di- vision of it was made by the sheriff among the heritors, according to their respective valuations. The pulpit, which was transferred from the old church to the new, and is formed of oak, is said to have been brought from Holland, having inscribed upon it the date 1655. One of the communion cups is dated 1660, the shape being the antique form of an inverted candlestick ; the other was procured during the present incumbency. The church, accord- ing to its present arrangement, will accommodate 458, but might be seated for 500. There are 28 free sittings allotted to the poor. The manse was built in 1818, and, though of rather small dimensions, is commodious, well-finished, and in good repair. The old manse, now in ruins, is situated a few hundred yards to the east of the present. The glebe is 14.556 imperial ac.^^%^^^^* 74 L1NLITHGOW8HIRB. ing been receiTed id exeambioD for the old globe in 1817. stipend, inclusife of commuDion elemeDtty b IS6 bolla nod as many of barley. In 1834, there were 259 families, annountiog to IIM k duals who might be reckoned aa attached to the EitaUi Church, 22 families containiDg 96 individuals belonging to United Associate Synod ; one family and part of another ' were Reformed Presbyterians, and there were 5 EpiscopaU The average number of communicant^ is nearly 200. Religious Soci^. — A Parochial Bible Association was iosCiti in 1826, in connection with the West Lothian Bible Societyt \ a special provision, that the wants of the parish should, in the 1 instance, be supplied The rate of contribution was a peony week, and in this way, from 1826 to 1838 inclusive, 1*51, 17s» 1 were collected for the purpose of promoting the distribution of i Scriptures. This society has now merged in a general assoeint; lately established in support of the schemes of the General / sembly, and for circulating Bibles through the parish. Churcli CStiflecluNM.-— The amount of church collections f li^ious and charitable purposes for the seven years ending in averaged L. 38^ 4s. 1 Id. Educatiatu — Besides the parochial school, there are thr schools in the parish, two of them under the patronage perintendence of the Carriden family, one an infant scl other for the education of female children, the third d/ upon the personal efforts and success of the teacher. The parochial teacher's salary is the maximum. He the legal accommodations as to school and dwelling- in lieu of a garden, two bolls of oatmeal are allowed h' Library. — In 1821, a library was instituted in tb consist of books of a religious and instructive char remain in perpetoity for the use of the inhabitants of donations set it at once on a respectable footin cession of subscribers was at first promising, but laf not been so numerous. Friendly Soeieiies and Saving^ ArnAs.— Some ' vings' bank was establbhed, in the hope that it wr largely improve the character and domestic comfor classy ; but the eaperiment did not succeed. 1 opportunity of entering deposits, and those few class of persons for whose benefit it was desigc Carriden. 75 Friendly Societies. — There were two Friendly Societies in ezis* tence in 1834, and had been for some years before— one for the support of its members when disabled by sickness or infirmity, the other for defraying the funeral expenses incurred at the death of a member, or of a member's wife or child. At present the latter only is in existence. Poor andJParochial Funds. — The average number of paupers up- on the roll for the seven years ending in 1834, was 30{f , to each of whom the average sum allotted yearly was L.2, Ss. 6^. Be- sides those upon the roll, there are others who are allowed occa- sional relief. The funds for this expenditure proceed partly from the church collections, and the proclamation and mortcloth dues, and partly from an assessment laid on the landlord and tenant, and which, for the seven years above specified, averaged L.36, 6s. 3yd. per annum. It is much to be regretted, that the disposition, once so honourable a trait in the Scottish character, to live indepen- dently of parochial aid, is greatly on the decline. Ale-houses. — Of these there are too many amongst us for the moral well-being of the people. There are six houses in all where spirituous liquors are sold. Miscellaneous Observations. In more remote times, the aspectof the parish must have been con- siderably different from what it is at present The surface was for- merly much more thickly studded ^with human habitations and scenes of human industry, grouped together in little patches, than it is now ; many of which have disappeared altogether, while of some a few faint vestiges still remain. At one time a considera- ble establishment of salt-works, now wholly obliterated, existed near where the present church is situated, and was named in the former Statistical Account, " Benhard-pans." Nearly a mile dis- tant from the church to the east, another series oferectionsof the same kind was stationed, called Carris-pans, probably a corruption of Carriden-pans, of which the only relic to be seen is the stakes, that mark out the boundary of the ^* bucket paty* that is, the re- servoir that held the sea water that was to be subjected to the process of evaporation. Bonhard appears to have been once the seat of a village inhabited by the labourers that were employed at the coal-works formerly in operation there. Little Carriden, si- tuated a short distance eastward from the Muirhouses, but now extinct, was within these twenty years in existence. From time to time, the smaller farm steadings have been ^:^4>a.^'^ ^'sss^V^'^jt- ing. And the villages iVi^^, q^o^Vvkw^ V» wyaX. ^\^^^«^ ^N^^^VRs^^a. 76 LINLITHGOWSHIRE* of decay rather thao of increase and improTemeot. Black especially, seems to have shrunk greatly from its former im} ance, as, besides being a respectable sea-port and mart of ti it was once the centre of a considerable population, having ii neighbourhood mills, fisheries, coal-works, and salt-pans.* Revised April 184a PARISH OF WHITBURN. PRESBYTERY OP LINLITHGOW, SYXOD OF LOTHIAN & 11¥EBDDA1 THE REV. GRAHAM MITCHELL, A.M., MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Extent^ 8^c* — Whitburn, formerly written Whitebui seems to have received its name in contradistinction to Blackbui which lies to the east of the parish. In extent it is about six mil long, and two and a-half broad. It is bounded on the east, by Livin ston ; on the west, by Shotts and part of Cambusnethan ; on f south, by West Calder ; and on the north, by Bathgate and ^ of Shotts.t The Almond runs through the north of the p9 and the Breich along the south of it. There are several springs, and a good deal of mineral strongly impregnated with iron. Mineralogy. — A most valuable seam of coal has been here for more than a century. A drop falls from the * Besides what was formerly stated in the teit, the importance of Blac' be inferred from the following words found in a charter granted in 1642, Dalzell de Binnes, — ** Duobus marinis molendinis granariis lie sea-corn multuris omnium terranim de Blacknes et Bonytoun, infra dominium de cum Tiridario— piscationibus et piscariis lie crudes de Blacknes infrs carbonibus, et salinas patellis, de dominio et l>alliatu prsdicto.** In an to George Earl of Linlithgow in 1690, the tenor is— *< officio constabul disB castri de Blackness— terris, et carbonibus et carbonariis dictaninr Blackness tam infra quam eztra fluium maris ;— piscibus, piseariis e Blackness infra mare, &c.** t The first branch of the Briech water commences at a place eallf or Moss, on the lands of CUmpy,->it is sometimes called Dmrmed K were often preached in that retired place in times of persecution. Th commences at a place called Linqure, between Knowton and Headlt and Causeway hilL The Almond water commences at the fiiot of tl the parish of Shotts, and from Blairroackhole moss, about a mile f the same parish. WHITBURN. 77- the pit, and sometimes forms itself into strong pillars, which can with difficulty be broken. It is calcareous stalactite. The fol- lowing report of Greenridge Colliery is from Mr Bald, engineer, who is well acquainted with a considerable part of the parish :^- *^ Ist^ The dip of the strata is to the north ; their declination from the horizon is in general about one in twelve, but they are in some instances much flatter, and also steeper. The strata are occasionally cut by veins or slips, producing dislocations of the strata, and these are generally in the line of bearing from east to west. The effect of these is to throw the strata either up or down to the rise or crop. *^ 2(/, The whole of the parish of Whitburn, as to its minerals, is of the independent coal formation, and consists of the following kinds of rocks : — " fSandstonct of various shades of yellow and brown, some of it in thick beds ; flagstones, and thin slaty sandstone. Mica is found in all these, and generally very abundant in the latter. Hardness, from very soft to very hard. ** Argillaceous shislus^ of various shades, from dark blue to black, is found in beds of a few inches to several yards thick. This shistus, when mixed with sand, forms a clay slaty sandstone. Bands and balls of argillaceous ironstone are frequently found in this shistus. Some of this rock is of very fine particles, decomposes rapidly when exposed to the air and weather ; when calcined, it is of a bright- red, " Argillaceous rocksj of various shades of brown and approaching to black. This is commonly found to be the bed upon which each coal rests ; in it are found occasionally small balls of argillaceous ironstone, very much the shape of potatoes. This kind of rock is termed fire-clay, and from it, in different places, the besf fire- bricks of Scotland are made, for resisting the action of intense furnace heat. " Greenstone rock^ commonly termed blue whinstone, abounds very much in this parish. It is similar to the same kind of rock so abundant in Scotland, composed of red or white felspar and hornblende, and in whatever situation the bed of greenstone is that is, whether in a vertical or horizontal position, the numerous fissures, which give it a columnar form, are always at right angles to the bed on which it rests. This rock is found in detached beds, generally several yards in thickness, forming small knolls, and at times the summit of hills, of from 150 to 200 foA!^ Vc^a^N^ t8 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. above the adjacent country. Many mineralogists, and flsai engineers in particular, think these rocks of igneous orjgioi I cause when they come in contact with bituminous coal, the cot men coal of Sa>tland, they deprire it of its bitumen, conmtii it in some cases into glance coal (the blind coal of ScoClaik having neither smoke nor flame, on which account it is used I drying malt, at other times it converts the coal into a black stoi of no use whatever. *^ Limestone* — None of this rock is found in the parish, but n neralogists are of opinion it is to be found in the lower series < the coal strata, and of that kind which is termed the mountaii limestone. ^^IromUme. — The ironstone found in this parish is of the commo argillaceous kind, and is found in beds from one inch to seven inches thick, or in balls or flat circular pieces. This ironston is similar to that found in all the coal-fields of Scotland, and um for the making of pig»iron. It yields generally from twenty-sevr to thirty-three per cent, of pig-iron. ^* The same kind of organic remains are found in the strata^ as are common in all the coal-fields of Scotland. *^ The alluvial covers are, 1. the old alluvial cover, compc clay, sand, and small stones, intimately blended togetb very impervious to water. In this, large greenstone \ abound. 2. Quick sands. 3. Clay mixed with small stones. 4. Peat-bog. This is of very considerable ez very full of water. ^'.The most valuable mineral which this parish conta is called the Crofthead, or slaty black band ironstone very fine field has lately been discovered lying betweer beyond the village of Longridge. The change which has made upon this district is very remarkable ; within the last three years a solitary moorland seer come one of enterprise and industry. Tall chir in all directions, and clouds of smoke rolling s burning masses, show the extensive nature of the are now carried on. *< In regard to the position of this mineral, strata of the neighbouring districts, it is undoi with the Great Western Coal-field, or Glasgr usually termed, and lies at the bottom of the belongs. At the south-western extremity of tb WHITBURN. 79 minerals are found cropping out in the Fauld Burn, a little above the village of Fauldhouse. These minerals lie somewhat in the form of a basin, the next in order below which is the slaty band series, to which also belong several seams of coal, generally of trifling amount. One of these seams is at present worked at Crofthead. The slaty band ironstone lies eleven fathoms below this seam. It occurs in three layers or plies, averaging in all about fourteen inches thick, the lower layer having from half an inch to one inch of coal adhering to the bottom of it The strata above the slaty band is composed of shale, which contains balls of ironstone, which are worked along with the slaty band in the ** following," or part of the overlaying strata, which is taken down in order to make the workings the proper height From twenty- three to twenty- five fathoms below the slaty band, there is a bed of ironstone balls, which contain a very high per centage of iron. These balls lie in a bed of clay, from four to four and a half feet thick. From forty- five to forty-eight fathoms below this bed, there is another bed of ironstone balls, from two to two and a-half feet thick, lying below a mixture of sandstone and clay, the floor being composed of bastard limestone, from one foot to sixteen inches thick. Sixteen fathoms below this, there is a bed of lime- stone, which probably belongs to the limestone series which occurs at Levenseat, in the county of Edinburgh, and which lies beneath it Below this, the coals which are found at Wilsontown, Wood- muir, and Longford, in the counties of Lanark and Edinburgh, occur. The series to which the slaty band belongs lies between the Levenseat limestone and the west country coal, called the Drumgray coal. There appears to be a great mass of sandstone between the slaty band series and the Levenseat limestone. It is considered a doubtful point whether the slaty band field extends much beyond the district in which it is at present worked. It has been found at Langside, in the parish of Shotts, and was sup- posed to have been found about a mile and a-half south from Crofihead. ^* Although now so highly prized, the real nature and valuable properties of this kind of ironstone was, until within these few years, almost unknown. It was worked about forty years ago by the Wilsontown Iron Company, on the lands of Wester Handax- M. woody in the county of Edinburgh ; but its valuable properties were then unknown, and it was supposed that it jdid not extend to the north side of Breich Water, whereas the greater ^'swn. ^ 80 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. this^ironstone has now been found to lie on the north gide of water. The whole of the slaty band as yet worked io this pw is in tack by the Shotts Iron Company, and Messrs Holdiwa of Coltness. A number of pits have been sunk, and a DQml of steam-engines are used for pumping and winding. Tbi are upwards of 200 workmen employed, who receive tn 2s. 6d. to ds. per ton for working the ironstone* The minen in this 6eld dip to the north-west one foot in seven. The iro stone is worked in the Longwall or Shropshire manner, and subsiding of about eighteen inches takes place* Great care required in regulating the air-courses, and numerous air-pits ai sometimes required in consequence of the great quantity of su phurous vapour exhaled from the ironstone. When brought i the surface, the ironstone is removed on railways a short distanc from the pits, where it is piled in large heaps for the purpose c being calcined. These heaps vary in size, according as it ' found most convenient, from a few hundred up to 2000 to Previous to being set on fire, the mass is covered with asher order to exclude the air, otherwise the ironstone becomes oxic' and of a reddish colour. 1000 tons of ironstone is, when calc reduced to 64 tons, and the quantity of iron got from the stone is estimated as high as forty-two per cent. When pre calcined, it has a very open texture, in consequence of the naceous matter having been consumed, for which reason it for mixing with other kinds of iron when put in the fur order tomake them flow more easily. Whilst the procef cining is carried on, the smoke has a very stifling eflec^ sequence of the sulphurous vapour which is given out * it, and sulphur is found deposited on the top of the hr vapour has a most devastating effect on the vegetat' the ground in some places near the pits being tota^ vegetation ; and on the lands of Crofthead, a young p been totally destroyed. When the water was pumf old workings of Wester Handaxwood in spring 1^ much impregnated with sulphate of iron, that it ki the Breich and Almond waters, into which it flow a number of faults or dislocations in this field, run in the direction of the dip and rise, and vary few inches to about nineteen feet, but they are r or frequency of occurrence as materially to impr the ironstone." WHITBURN. ^l II. — Civil History. Land-owners. — These are, Sir Wiiliam Baillie of Polkemmet, patron ;* Alexander Weir, Esq. of Boghead ; George Napier» Esq. of Little'^Blackburn ; James Waddle, Esq. of Crofkhead, &c Antiquities. — In Cowhill, two gold pieces of Roman coin were dug up in a bog. The late Samuel Muir, Rector of Perth Academy^ who was said to have been master of the grammar of eighteen different languages, received the first elements of his education in this parish. III. — Population. The number of inhabitants in this parish stood as follows at the different census : Year 1755, 1121 1791, . 1322 IfiOI, . 1537 1821, . 19U0 1831, . 2075 1841, . 2596 IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish contains 10,019 English acres. The improvements of which husbandry is susceptible in this pa- rish are considerable. The ground being clay, or till bottom, it much requires draining, which is not yet carried to that extent it might. In some few places, the soil is of such a stiff nature that draining proves of little benefit. There is a great want of good enclosures and fences in some parts of this parish. Plantations are getting up. Quarries. — Several stone quarries are open in the pafish, one at Blackburnhaugh, and another at Longridge. Whinstone is to be found. There are some good sand quarries ; one of a white sili- ceous nature, which makes excellent garden-walks. There is ano- ther of red sandstone. V, — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is most eonvenient. When this parish was disjoined from Livingston, it lAs opened for public worship on the 2lst October 1718; but there was preaching before from the year 162a f The church was erected and partly endowed by public subscriptions. • The progenitoTS of Sir William Baillie came originally from Lanarkshire. They purchased the property of Polkeminet in the sixteenth century from Mr Andrew Shaw, a brief account of whom will be found in Spottiswood*s History. X Cargill, it is said, preached there on the Sabbath prior to the excommunication gt Torwood. LINLITHGOW. ' 82 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. The extent of the glebe is between six and seven acres. T1 final decreet of locality for the stipend, though many yearii befe the court, is not yet determined, but over and above the stipeo L. 100 arises to the minister from a mortification in the conn of Lanark, and which entitles him to a vote for member of Puiii ment, besides the vote in Linlithgow county. There are three Dissenting meeting-houses in the parish. D vine service in the Established Church is well attended, and tl majority of the parishioners are attached to it Secession origi nated here from the parishioners being frustrated in obtaining vote for the minister, notwithstanding they had contributed to til erection of the church with that special end in view. The amount of collections in the parish church used to be be tween L.46 and L.50 in the year ; but it has been less of late. Ministers. — The Rev. Alexander Wardrope, first minister o the church of Whitburn, was the descendant of a respectable h mily in this place. He was licensed to preach about 1722, ar some time after, was ordained at Muckhart. (Vide Sketch him by the late Rev. John Brown.) We find Mr Wardrope me tioned in Erskine's Memoirs as one of his correspondents. Wardrope took an active share in the discussion usually called *^ Marrow Controversy." Mr Wardrope, however, excelled as a preacher than a controversialist People came in r from very great distances to hear him. The individual who succeeded Mr Wardrope was Dr Porteous. He was the son of the Rev. James Porteous c vaird. He was bom on the 10th of March (O. S.) 173 the Memoir of his life, it appears that he became one o able ministers of the Church of Scotland in his day. ' planned the Glasgow Society of the Sons of the CI has endeared his memory to the Church. In the s humanity and zeal for the best interests of men, he f all his public and private influence the noble and e of the British and Foreign Bible Society. And i motion before the Church courts, there was appoint^ lie collection which was ever made in Scotland fr that institution. He was ordained minister of T 10th of June 1760, where he laboured for ter 28th June 1770, he was appointed minister of S gow, where he set agoing Sabbath schools, anr the benefit of the poor. WHITBURN. 83 The next minister who succeeded Dr Porteous as minister of Whitburn was the Rev. Mr Baron, who afterwards became Pro- fessor of Moral Philosophy in the University of St Andrews. Professor Baron was bom at Kershall, in the parish of Corstor- phine, in 1735 ; he died in I80a He received the greater part of his education at the University of Edinburgh. His first settlement took place at Wamfray. His reception in the parish was not very en- couraging; but similar occurrences were not very unusual at that time. In 1774, he published an essay on the mechanical principles of the plough, and in 1777, a " History of the Colonization of the Free States of Antiquity, applied to the present Contest between Great Britain and her American Colonies.** This work attracted much notice, in this country, and on the continent. It called forth several keen replies in England, and in the following year a French translation was published at Utrecht. When at Whitburn, he likewise wrote his history of the political connection between Great Britain and Ireland, which was published about 1780. Soon after be went to St Andrews. It is proper to mention, that he wrote an account of the life of Thomson, which was prefixed to an edition of the ** Seasons,'* published at Edinburgh. He also was a contributor to the Edin- burgh Magazine. Among the distinguished men who then adorn- ed the literature of Scotland, few were more conspicuous than the late Lord Kames. With him Mr Baron lived on terms of fa- miliar intercourse. His Lordship, about this time, succeeded in reviving the Philosophical Society of Edinburgh, originally es- tablished by the celebrated Maclaurin. Of this Society Mr Baron was a member. In a few years, chiefly at the instigation of Prin- cipal Robertson, this Society merged in another on a more extended plan, and was incorporated by royal charter under the name of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. Of this Society Mr Baron was an original member. He was nominated Professor of Rhetoric and Logic in the University of St Andrews without his knowledge. This appointment compelled him to give up his benefice at Whit- bum ; but as a compensation for the loss of his living, the King was, many years afterwards, pleased to confer upon him a pension of L. 100 a-year. His Lectures on Rhetoric were published in 1806. Mr Baron was succeeded in the charge by Dr James Somerville. He was bom in Camwath in the year 1747. He was appointed minister of Whitburn in 1779, in which charge he laboured about 84 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. ten years. (Vide account of Dr Sommervile in Dr Stevens*! hi tory, also prefixed to the volume of his published discourtes.) Dr Somerville was succeeded in the charge by the Rev. Jan Rhind, who was admitted minister of Whitburn in 1790. H successor was the Rev. James Watson, who was translated froi the presbytery of Orkney. The Rev. Archibald Bruce, minister of the Associate Congn gation, and teacher of the theological class at Whitburn under tb inspection of the (late) General Associate Synod, was a mao c such eminent attainments in theology and literature, that his nam deserves to be here recorded. In the year 1780, he publishei " Free Thoughts on the Toleration of Popery ;" a work of nuN elaborate research, which has furnished subsequent writers upo the subject with a rich store of materials, and which procured SI Bruce the friendship of Lord George Gordon, upon whom Bl Bruce waited when in London in the year 1782, and who, a yea 01* two later, visited Mr Bruce at Whitburn. The following worki among many others, issued from his pen : ** Introductory and Oc casional Lectures,** delivered in the Theological Academy Whitburn ; *' A Dissertation on the Supremacy of Civil Pov in Matters of Religion ;" translation from the French of " courses on the True and False Religion, by Pictet." Vide 9 of Mr Bruce in. the Life of Dr M^Crie. Education. — There are five schools ; two are endowed sum of L.4250 left to the schools of this and Cambusnet rishes. The salaries of the teachers of these two school pendently of the school-fees, at present amount to less thar besides free house and garden. The parish schoolmaster's the maximum, L.34, 4s. 4id. He has also a glebe of t acres, Scotch measure. He has the legal accommodati amount of school-fees may be about L.20 per annum. Libraries.-^There are two libraries in the parish, village and the other at Longridge. Jpril 1 84a PARISH OF UPHALL. PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALB. THE REV. GEORGE BOAG, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent^ (J-c. — The extreme length of the parish, from east to west, is 4 miles, and breadth from north to south about 3 miles. It contains 3120 Scots acres. It is bounded on the north, by Ecclesmachen and Linlithgow ; on the east, by Kirkliston ; on the south, by Mid-Calder; and on the west, by Livingston and Ecclesmachen. The highest part of the parish is probably not 380 feet above the level of the sea. Toward the north-west, however, where the church and manse stand, it is so elevated as to have a commanding view of the country to the east and south-east as far as Edinburgh Arthur's Seat, and the Pentland hills, and even North Berwick Law, as well as the Lammermoor hills, are seen in the distance. The parish anciently was named Strathbrock, which signifies " the valley of brocks or badgers." II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — These are chiefly records of marriages, baptisms, and proceedings of session. Registers of marriages and baptisms seem to have been regularly kept, and are for the most part extant, for upwards of two hundred and forty years. Records of the deeds of session have been regularly kept since the establish- ment of Presbyterianism, after the Revolution. During the time of Episcopacy, before the Revolution, a register of burials seems to have been kept, which is still extant; but since that time, this was for the most part neglected, till the beginning of the year 1840, when the regular registration of burials was com- menced. Lafid-aumers. — The Earl of Buchan is the principal land-owner and patron of the parish. The valuation of his Lordship's pro- perty situate in this parish, being the estate of Strathbrock, and part of that of Amondell, is L.3326. Strathbrock, according i. Regni ab Ardni deinceps Justitiani Generalis facto functi viij kalend Deceoib aetatis 63 anno domini 1679." The present Earl, to whose hereditary possessions have be added the estates of Livingstone and Rosebery, in West and M Lothian, was bom at Bambougle, 14th October 1783, and hast sons and three daughters, the eldest of whom. Lord Dalmeoy* M. P. for the Stirling burghs. His Lordship is Lord LieuteM of the county of Linlithgow. Family of Ihmda» of Dundas. — The family of Dundas, w hold the portion of the remainder of the parish proper, a lai and valuable demesne surrounding the elegant mansion, built the present proprietor in conjunction with the old baronial car is by &r the most ancient now extant of any in the pai Huttred, the first of this remote ancestry, is said, on the autho of a charter from King David L to the Abbey of Melrose, to Y been a son of Gospatrick, grandfather of Gospatrick, first of Dunbar and March* This supposition is confirmed by tl* cumstance of Heliaf^ the son of Huttred, obtaining a charter lands of Dundas from his uncle, Waldevus, son of the fir patrick. This charter, which b still in possession of the is one of the oldest original private writs in Scotland, and following words : *' Waldivus filius Gospatricii omnibus pr minibus tam futuris quam preseiitibus, salutem. Sciatb dissie et concessisse et hac carta mea confirmasse Helio f tredi Dundas pro servitio dimidii militis, ilium et her tenendum, de me ethaeredibus meis, in feudoet hssredil ris, in aquis, in stagnis, in molendinis, in pratis, in past omnibus rectis et divisu et pertinentiis, concede itaque q precipio ut iste predictus Helias istam terram habeat et DALMENV. ^^ quiete tain libere ettam honorifice ut nullus miles de barone tenet iiberius et quietius et boiiorificentius in tota terra Regis Scotie. His testibus, Joanne filio Orm. WaldevoBlio Baldwin Roberto de Sancto Michaele, Helio de Hadestanden aWillielmo de Copland, Wiilieimo de Hellebes. Alano Dapifero, Gerardo Milite Joannede Gragin." This charter, which has no date, must have been granted prerious to I \ 2*2, in which year, Robertas de Sancto Michaele, one of the witnesses, was made Bishop of St Andrews. The lands of Dundas continued in the direct male line for twelve generations, when James de Dundas died, without male issue, in 1450, and was succeeded by his brother, Sir Archibald, whose son and successor was several times sent on an embassy to England, and enjoyed the confidence of King James III. to such a degree, that he created him Earl of Forth in 1488 ; but the patent, though signed, not hav. ingpassed the King's seal, previous to the death of that unfortunate monarch, was held to be invalid. From this period, the property has again descended in the male line direct through other twelve ge- nerations, some of them figuring conspicuously both in the civil and ecclesiastical history of the country, and giving rise to the collateral * branches of the families of that name, of Melville, Arniston, Dud- dingstone, and Carron-hall. The estate had nearly again diverged from this line of succession, on the death of the father of the present proprietor, who perished in command of the Winterton East India- man, on the coast of Madagascar, in August 1792« His son, James Dundas, Esq. the present proprietor, who was born in January fol- lowing, having, by his wife Lady Mary Duncan, daughter of the Hero of Camperdown, a family of six sons and five daughters, bids fair to transmit this venerable name and inheritance to a late posterity. Eminent Men. — The only person eminent as an author known to have belonged to this parish, was William Wilkie, born at Echline in 1721. He was first minister of Ratho, and then Pro- fessor of Natural Philosophy in the University, where he died in 1772. His principal work, the Epigoniad, has been much and justly admired, especially the Episode of Hercules. Auldcathy, the portion of the parish lying to the west, as for- merly described, appears to have been formerly part of the crown lands, but was along with the lands of Kinneil and Larbert, be- stowed by King Robert Bruce in 1324, upon Sir Walter Hamil- ton of Cadzow, ancestor of the Duke of Hamilton, and continued a long time in that noble family. After passing tK't^w's^ >i^Osjc5ss^i». HO LINLITHGOWSHIRE. of various proprietors, it was sold by the first Earl of Haddington in 1721, to the Earl of Hopetoun, in whose family it now r»** mains. Antiquities, — Among the antiquities of this parish, the aocMOl Castle of Dundas is entitled to a prominent place. It standi ia conjunction with the modern mansion on the brpw of a craggy hill of that name, which signifies, *^ the hill of falloif deer," and from which numerous bones of deer, and others of large dimensiotts have been dug up. Its precise age cannot now be ascertaiuadt though it is supposed to have stood since the beginning of the eleventh century. Several additions were made to it about 1418» when it was turned into a fortalice by warrant from Robert, Duke of Albany, and by a subsequent one, from James I. in 1424» Its walls, which are very massive, were at that time raised to the height of 75 feet. Its apartments are all arched, and a circular stair leads to the top, which is flat, and surrounded by a battlementf from which the view is magnificent. Immediately under the north front of the present castle, there still stands a stone fountain of * most curious workmanship, which originally occupied the centre of a parterre enclosed with walls of hewn stone 12 feet, and of vast thickness, with flights of stairs in the middle, and a banqueting house at each corner. This fountain, which was supplied by water brought in pipes from a distance, is ornamented with numero^ figures cut in the stone, and bears on its sides a long inscriptior rather doggrel Latin, divided into stanzas, setting forth that purpose for which it was erected by Sir Walter Dundas, in year of man's redemptipn 1623, and 61st of his age, waf perpetuate his own memory to be an ornament to his coi and family, — a gratification to his friends, and a terror to sp and depredators, and that the parched garden might be m ed with the water of the fountain. Tradition relates t cause of this most expensive work was his disappointmen loss of the barony of Barnbougle, for the purchase of w had collected a large sum of money, when it fell into thi of the Earl of Haddington. The expense of it was so er as to involve him in diflSculties from which he never r Whilst it was in the course of erection, it is said that he so much in the noise of hewing the stones, that in a fit o which confined him to his bed, he ordered the masons t that operation in his antichamber* At the west end o ferry is the ancient monastery of the Carmelite friars, ^ DALMENY. 101 1332 by Sir George Dundas of Dundas. It consists of a square tower with two wings, the one of which is entire, and is now the burial-place of the family* The tower, which was the dwelling- place of the monks, bears the marks of fire. One of the brethren of this monastery was Symon de Cramond, son of the family of Cramond of that Ilk, who, going abroad, rose to the dignity of pa- triarch of Anlioch. Father Hay, in his " Scotia Sacra," men- tions that there was a monastery of the order of the Holy Trinity at Dalmeny in 1297, and another of the same order at Queens- ferry, The small island of Inchgarvey, which signifies rough or rocky island, in the middle of the Frith, between the south and north ferries, is another of the ancient possessions of the family of Dun- das. It was granted to John Dundas in 1491 by King James IV* in lieu of his extensive property of Bothkenner, which had beetl forfeited by his adherence to James III., with power to build a fort upon it, of which he and his heirs were to be perpetual gover- nors, and with the right of levying certain duties on vessels pas- sing up the Frith. In the regency of Albany, during the mino- rity of James V., Inchgarvey* seems to have been employed as a state prison, to which the celebrated Secretary Pauter was com- mitted by that weak and tyrannical ruler. When Albany went to France in 1517, he left Inchgarvey, together with Dunbar and Dumbarton, garrisoned with French soldiers, aj the charge, and to the great oppression, of the nation. It surrendered to Cromwell in 1651. The fortifications seem ffom that period to have been much neglected, till Paul Jones appeared in the Frith in 1779, when they were repaired and mounted with four twenty-pounders. During the late war, when an invasion was threatened from France, it was again repaired, and strengthened with some addi- tional pieces of ordnance, which, together with the batteries on shore sweeping the whole range of the Frith, was judged sufficient to protect the upper part of it from any hostile aggression. Among the antiquities of this parish, not the least remarkable is the pa- rish church, though its early history is unhappily lost in antiquity. From the style of its architecture, which is Anglo- Norman, and from its striking resemblance to the church of Narcoide, near Carlisle, which was built before the time of William the Conque- • The charter conveying this island is an autograph of His Majesty. There is al. io in the possession of the family a letter of James VI. inviting the then represent** tive to the baptism of his son, Charles I., and another from the same monaxcK v^ i|ueating Uie loan of a pair of silk stockings. 102 iJNI.ITIIGOWSinRF. ror, but which is greatly its inferior io point of embellisbmenCt V0 cannot err in referring it at the latest to the tenth or eleventh een* turies. It is a very elegant small fabric, all of cut stonei 84 taet loner and 25 broad, except at the east end, where it contracts into a semicircle. The pediments of the principal doors and window* arc richly carved, resting on single columns with (TOthic capitally and round the upper part of the building there is an emboetnieDt of carved faces, all dissimilar and of grotesque appearance. But the chief beauty of the church is in the interior, which has a itrik- ing eiTcct on entering from the west, especially from the upper part of the gallery. The body of the church is divided into three parts by two semicircular arches, that over the chancel being sa much smaller than the other as to render the perspective peculU ally pleasing. Tliey are both richly ornamented with successive tiers of mouldings of a zigzag or starry shape. This structure was repaired and refitted in 1816, in a manner corresponding tm its architectural beauty, though it is to be regretted that so fine and perfect a specimen of that peculiar style of building should be deformed externally by the addition of a modern cemetery for the family of Hosebery, and more recently of a private room belonging to that of Dundas. It seems originally to have formed part of the diocese of St Andrews, and to have been granted during the thir* tceiith century to the AI)bey of Jedburgh, in the reign of William or Alexander II., to which it pertained till the annexation of the church lands to the Crown by James VI. in 159G. From the crown-charter conveying thc^ rights of the lands and barony of Dahneny, and the fortalice of Barnbougle, with the patronage or " capallaniu! et altaris Sancti Adamani infra ecclesiam parochia^ lem de Dummany/' it would appear to have been dedicated to St Adaman, as the adjoining parish of Cramond was to St Co- lumba and the Virgin Mary, the right of presenting to all these altars, which were frequently separate endowments, being vested in the family of Moubray, At the door of the church there is a fc^tone-co(!]n of large dimensions, cut from a single block, and co» vcred both on the lid and sides with hieroglyphics which cannot now be deciphered. It was found near to its present position, in digging a grave belonging to the Stewarts of Craigie, but nothing can be traced of its origin. Coffins of similar material, but of much simpler and ruder construction, have been found in other parts of the parish, one of which is still to be seen with its end ])rojecting from the bank formed by a cut through Craigiehill on the road leading to Kirkliston. It scarcely seems to admit of dalmeny. 103 doubt, that the great Roman military way, which proceeded from Northumberland by Eildon and Soutra to the Fentland hills, and thence by Ravelston to Cramond, which was evidently a maritime station on the Bodotria, and where numerous vestigia have been discovered, was continued by Barnbougle and Dalmeny through Abercorn to Carriden to the eastern extremity of the wall of An- toninus. About a mile, accordingly, to the west of Queensferry there were, about a century ago, remains to be seen of what was suppos- ed to be ^* a Roman Speculatorium, consisting of a large carved window, a square pillar, and a considerable quantity of hewn stones, which, it is said, were carried to Dunkirk. There were found here also several silver medals of Marcus Antoninus, with a vic- tory on the reverse ; also, the carved handle of a copper vessel, and the bottom of an earthen urn, with the word adjecti, the rest obliterated."* At Springfield, a little to the westward of this spot, there was discovered recently, in digging near the house, a skeleton of large size, and a trench of considerable breadth and depth, filled with human bones. A brass pot, and in it a pagan idol, were exhumed near Queensferry, on the lands of Dundas, in 1738, which the workmen, through a mistaken zeal, instantly de- molished. Not far from Dundas Castle, there was found also, at a considerable depth between the parallel walls discovered under ground, a Roman coin with the letters tan distinctly inscribed, the rest illegible, and the handle of a vessel supposed to have been a sympusium used by the Romans in their sacrifices. About a mile to the west of Barnbougle Castle, on the top of a high sea- bank, is an ancient cairn, called Earl Cairney, of a circular shape, originally 500 feet in circumference, and 24 feet in height, though now considerably dilapidated, which was probably a sepulchral mo- nument. Parochial Registers. — The earliest date of the parochial regis- ters is 1628. They are considerably dilapidated, and sometimes irregular, till within the last century ; from which time, they have been kept with considerable accuracy. The patronage of the parish, which was derived in 1540 from the abbot and convent of Jedburgh, has belonged since that pe- riod to the barony of Barnbougle, and was vested in Sir Archibald Primrose and his heirs, by the charter conveying to him that pro^ perty. Since the restoration of the right of patronage by the act of Queen Anne in 1712, it has been uniformly exercised, accord- * Old Statistical Accountt 104 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. iiigly, by the Earls of Rosebery, under protest from the Earl of Hopetoiin, who claimed the right altemis vicibus^ in virtue of his possession of the parsonage of Auldcathie, which had been uniU ed to the parish of Dalmeny in 1618, Lord Binning being then the patron of both. By a judgment of the Court of Session in 1835, the latter nobleman was found to be entitled to the alter* nate presentation. Ministers of the PamA.— The earliest incumbent in this parish of whom there is any authentic record, was John Gibbisone, minis* tcr of Dalmeny, and parson and vicar of Auldcathie from 1610^ where he is said to have succeeded George Lawder of Bass, who united the advantages of patron and parson. Mr Gibbisone seems to have died about 1648, and was succeeded by John Durie, who had been appointed by the presbytery colleague and successor to him in the then united parish. At his death in 1G56, Alexander Hamilton was ordained and admitted minister of Dalmeny by a call from the heritors and elders, the act of 1649 abolishing patronage being then in force. He was deprived for nonconformity in 1662, re- poned in 1669, and* transported to Edinburgh at the Revolution, where he died in 1696, and was buried in Cramond. Charles Gror- don, minister of a Presbyterian congregation in Campvere, in Hol- land, was appointed his successor in September 1691, in virtue ulso of a call from the heritors and elders, in terms of the act 1690. He was removed to Ashkirk in the same year, and died in 1710. From the date of his translation to 1700^ the parish seems to have remained vacant, the rents of the ministers glebe being gifted by the Earl of Rosebery as patron, for the benefit of the poor, and two silver communion cups, bearing the family arms, presented by him for the use of the parish, and now its property, furth of a part of the vacant stipends yet undisposed of." Between 1700 and 1711, John Steedman held the cure. The last appointment pre- vious to the Act 1712, was that of James Nasmyth, who was in-« ducted in 1711, and died at Dalmeny in 1774, in the ninety- first year of his age. Dr Robertson, who was a person of some learn« ing, and furnished the previous Statistical Account of the parish, was settled in 1775, and died at Edinburgh, 15th November 1799. In the following year, James Greig, the late minister, was appointed, and continued till his death in 1829^ when the present incumbent was translated from Torphichen. III. — Population*. The population of the united parishes was in 1831, 1201^ be* 3 DALMENY. lOd ing a decrease of 204 from that of 1621. It is almost entirely agricultural, with the exception of about fifty families in the towD of Queensferry, (part of which belongs to Dalmeny,) and at New- halls, — who are engaged in fishing and various domestic trades^ Amount of population in 184], 1393. IV. — Industry. Most of the farm-houses, and several of the office-houses^ are slated ; the former generally substantial and commodious, and in some instances elegant. The farms comprise from 80 to upwards of 300 acres ; some of them cultivated with a degree of skill and enterprise highly creditable. The four rotation system is that commonly in use ; but, of late years, the grazing of cattle and the better breeds of sheep have thrown a much larger portion into pasture than formerly, — a prac- tice which is found not only to yield a better immediate return than a constant succession of white and green crops, but greatly to improve the land, and render it more productive. The parish is now almost universally drained according to the improved mode of placing the drains in every alternate furrow, at the distance of thirty-six feet apart, the tenant paying, besides the carriages, a per centage during his lease, on the outlay of the landlord. The soil of the higher grounds, which is chiefly clay on a cold bottom, bordering in some places on till, passes in its descent to the lower grounds into the richest loam. One field, in particular, known by the name of the Kirk Park, is so exceedingly fertile, as to have acquired the distinction of *' perpetual soil." The minister's gar- den, which is of the same quality, and immediately adjoins it, i» said to have produced abundant crops of potatoes and other ve- getables, for six or seven years successively, without manure* The number of acres in the parish is about 5850 imperial^ of which about 1000 belong to the estate of Craigiehall, 2600 to that of Dalmeny, 1600 to that of Dundas, and 650 to that of Hopetoun. This last portion is chiefly in the disjoined part, called Auldcathy, of which the Earl of Hopetoun is the sole proprietor. The portion of it actually under the plough, which may be stated at 4000 acres imperial, is let on leases of nineteen years, at a rent of from L.l, 5s. to L.d, averaging L.2, 3s. 6d., payable for the most part in money and grain. The pasture, which may amount to 1000 acres, about 700 of which are within the grounds of Dalmeny Park, is let annually at from L. 2 to L.2, 10s. per imperial acre. There are under wood about 85(i 1 106 LlNLITHtiOWSUIRB. acres, including that on the ezteiuive policies of the ragpaclifn; proprietors, and the double hedge-rows of trees that line oioit of the parish roads, and subdiride several of the farms, adding mudi to the richness and beauty of the landscape, though perhaps not to its productiveness. The wood consists principally of oak, ash, elniv ])lane, and beech and fir, of about eighty years' growth ; though some of it, which is of large dimensions and of the finest quality, may have stood upwards of two centuries. The gross rental of the portions of the parish under cultivatioo may be estimated at L^700, and in pasture at L.225Q. The vahied rent is L.9398^ 10s. lOd. Scots, thus allocated :^ The Earl of Rowbery, L.4U04 2 7 Mr DundoofDundM, 2190 8 6 Mr Hop« Vere of CmigidMlU 1905 12 7 The Earl of HopetouD, . 1066 IS 4 > Both now Karl of Roaebery, 990 18 ( Hopetouiu Qucenaferrj Acrea, fte. 40 12 6 The produce Daay average three quarters wheat, five quarters b'lrley, and sis quarters oats ; a large proportion of the land oo each farm being regularly under turnip crop, which is partly eat off by sheep, and partly used for feeding cattle. V. — Parochial Economy. . Villagei. — There are no villages of any extent within the parish, the greater part of the population, not purely agricultural, or at- tached to the establishments of the large proprietors being resident in the two ends of the town of Queensferry amounting to nearly 400. The small village of Dalmeny, which is delightfully situated nearly in the centre of the parish, on the road leading westward to Dundas, and commanding a view of the Frith of Forth, consists only of about a dozen of cottages, besides the church, manse, and and school-house, with a green in the middle. RocuiSf ilS*c. — The parish roads are generally excellent; the Great North Road from Edinburgh, unequalled perhaps in Bri- tain for its width and condition, entering it at Cramond Bridge, an elegant structure erected at great expense over the Almond, in the year 1821. It terminates at Newhalls, where there is a good and commodious inn. From this place the steam-passage*boats sail to North Queensferry every hour between sunrise and sunset, returning from the opposite side at each intermediate half-hour. The fares, which are generally considered high, are, for each passenger, dd. ; for a horse. Is. ; a two-wheeled carriage, 2s. 6d. ; a four-wheeled do. 7s. 6d. ; and for cattle, J6d. Aphead ; and for DALMKNY. 107 sheep, 2s. per score. They are let by public roup at present for three years, at a rent of L.1900, — a sum which has been gradually increasing, notwithstanding the general establishment of steam conveyance to Dundee and Aberdeen, but which will probably suffer a diminution, should the plan now projecting, of building a deep water pier at Burntisland, in conjunction with that lately erected at Granton, and communicating with a railway north- wards, be carried into effect. At present, the North Mail, the Defiance to Aberdeen, the Coburg to Perth, and the Antiquary to Dunfermline and Crieff, from Edinburgh, cross and recross daily. Ecclesiastical State, — The church is conveniently situated for (he parish proper, and is seated for about 350 persons. There is also a Dissenting meeting-house in the west end of the town of Queensferry, in connection with the United Associate Synod, which draws its supplies to the amount of about 500, from five adjacent parishes. Of these there are between twenty and thirty families belonging to the parish of Dalmeny. The rest are, or profess to be, in communion with the Church. The number of actual communicants is in summer about 250, and in winter some- what less. The attendance may be termed good, though the church is considerably too small for the amount of the population. The stipend, which was allocated in 1823, consists of 17 chal- ders victual, half barley and half oatmeal, at the Linlithgow fiars prices, with L.8, 6s. 8d. Sterling for communion elements. Ori- ginally, the teinds of the parish, as given up at a judicial court of the abbey of Jedburgh in 1 626 were 20 chalders victual, whereof were to be paid to the minister two chalders and 400 merks. Education. — There is a Sabbath school taught in the church during the summer months by the clergyman, while a number of the people attend as hearers ; and another at Cramond Bridge throughout the whole year, supported by the Christian liberality of a lady not immediately connected with the parish, — and taught by one or other of the agents of the Edinburgh Gratis Sabbath School Society. The parochial school, which is the only one in the parish, is well attended. It has long been celebrated as a healthful and de- sirable place for boarders, of whom the present schoolmaster stilt receives a limited number. The salary is the maximum of L.34v 4s. d^d., with L.300 Sterling mortified by Lady Grizell Semple in 1723. This sum is vested at the instance of the Earl of GUy^^- bery and the minister for the time beiu^, ^%vc>isX^^"s»\Qx\i^wi\^^ 108 LINLITHGOWSHIIIE. the school, and the annual interest paid to the schoolmaster oa condition of his teaching gratuitously as many poor children as the trustees or kirk-session may choose to send. Lord Rosebery is also in terms of this grant entitled to present to the office when it be- comes vacant. The fees are 2s. 6d. for reading, ds. for other branches, and 7s. 6d. for Latin, Greek, French, and mathematics. The school- house and dwelling-house are commodious and com- forlable. The manse and offices are in good repair ; the latter neatly built for the present incumbent ; the former nearly a cen- tury old, of plain construction and moderate dimensions. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The two ends of Qucensferry, as may be supposed, contain almost all the pauperism of the parish, which, from the causes above-mentioned, is in large proportion i6 the amount of the population. The average number of paupers on the parish roll receiving supply regularly or occasionally is 35w In the summer months, several of them are cut off, and the annual expenditure for this department is L.90 Sterhng. The funds are derived from collections at the church door, amounting to from L.20 to L.dO yearly ; rent of land held in perpetual lease by the Earl of Rosebery to a similar amount, according to the 6ars' price of oatmeal ; a sum of L«ld5, lent on bond ; and a voluntary as* sessment by the heritors for what may be short of the sum requir* cd for the poor and other parochial expenses. Besides this regu« lar provision for the poor, those of them who live in the suburbs of the parish of Queensferry are entitled to a share of the annual produce of a large bequest of L.dOOO by a Mr Meek, a native of that place, who left it for the common behoof of both parishes, UD« der the management of the kirk-session of the latter. There is also the interest of a sum of L.200 Sterling, bequeathed by James Da-^ vidson, Esq. son of a former schoolmaster of Dalmeny, not inter- mixed in any way with the parochial funds, but distributed at the instance of trustees named in his deed of settlement. To these benefactions, the Earl of Rosebery adds yearly the liberal sum of L.20, to be laid out in the purchase chiefly of coals and meal during the winter, with an unlimited discretion to the minister of expending, at his Lordship's charge, whatever more may be needful, to provide for unforeseen contingencies, — an example which reflects the highest credit on the benevolence of that distinguished noble- man, and which, if generally followed throughout the country, would greatly enhance the comforts, and elevate the character of the deserving poor. April 1843, PARISH OF ECCLESMACHAN. PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALE, THE REV. JOHN SMITH, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of this parish, so far back as can be traced, has been written Ecclesmachan. It is usually pronounced Inch- machan, a custom, apparently, of considerable antiquity; for in a list of parishes existing in 1581, and contained in ^* the Booke of the Universal Kirk," it stands Inchmachame. Of this name, va- rious Celtic etymologies have been proposed, but none of them appear satisfactory. The most probable is that assigned in the former Statistical Report, viz. Ecclesia Machani, or, in Gaelic, Eaglait Afachan, *' the Church of Machan." In Keith's Calen- dar of Scots Saints is mentioned a St Machan, who, it is said, died about the middle of the ninth century. What connection he had with this part of the country, it is presumed, cannot now be ascertained. ^ Extent and Boundaries, — The parish is divided into two un- equal portions, distant about one mile from each other, and se- parated by an outlying district of Linlithgow parish. The west- am division is about 2^ miles long, and 1^ broad; the eastern division is If miles long, by 1^ broad; and the extreme points are nearly 5 miles from each other. The extent in square miles is 3.83, or 2458 imperial acres. The outline is very irregular. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Abercorn and Lin- lithgow ; on the west, by Bathgate ; on the south, by Livingstone and Uphall ; and, on the east, by Kirkliston and Auldcathie, a detached portion of Dalmeny parish. Topographical Appearances, — The two sections are each com- posed of a ridge of land. That on the west is the higher, as- cending, perhaps, to the height of 600 feet, intersected in several places by shallow ravines, and sloping chiefly to the south. The eastern ridge is lower, having on its southern edge a j^rettv ^.v^^^ 110 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. acclivity, called the Tar Hill, or perhaps the Tor Hill. The climate in the upper district is cold ; but in general it is salubrious, and, so far as has been observed, is not marked by any epidemical peculiarities. Several small streams, tributaries of thp Almond» flow eastward through the parish. Geology, — The district is on th% edge of the great Lothian coal-Geld, and it appears that coal was formerly worked in various places on the north. Sandstone occurs on most of the farms. I'he most prominent rocks are of triip, which seem to have dis- turbed greatly the strata in this neighbourhood. In the vicinity of these are found immense beds of indurated clay, interspersed occasionally with seams of clay-ironstone. The upper soil, which is chiefly formed from decomposed trap and indurated clay, is heavy, and highly retentive of moisture. From the trap rocks of the Tar Hill issues a spring, weakly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen. It is called the Bullion Well, and, though formerly visited by invalids, is now neglected. From the uniform nature of the soil, and the extent of tillage, the vegetation of this parish, though repeatedly examined, has been found to exhibit nothing peculiar. On the western heights, some of the subalpine mosses, such as Trichoatomum canescenM^ and T, htterostichuniy occur. n. — Civil History. Eminent Men, — Mr Alexander Hamilton, the first minister of this parish after the Revolution, was a man of distinguished talent and courage. It is said, that when a student, he took down the head of the celebrated James Guthrie from the Netherbow Fort of Edinburgh, where it had stood a public spectacle for many years ; and numerous stories are still current among the old people here about his skill as a swordsman, before he became a minister. He was translated first to Airth, and subsequently to Stirling, and was deeply involved in the *' Marrow Controversy.** The estate of Bangour gave designation to William Hamilton, Esq. a celebrated Scottish poet, in the early part of the last cen- tury. He was descended from one of the ancient families of the name of Hamilton, once numerous in the county of Linlithgow ; but whether he was born in this parish, or indeed resided in it^ the writer has not ascertained. In his youth he distinguished himself by numerous songs, and among these, *^ the Braes of Yarrow,*' published in the « Tea Table Miscellany.*' He is said ECCLESMACHAN. Ill § to have been a man of elegant accomplishments^ and of amiable manners. His poems are thus characterized by no mean judge» the late Lord Woodhouselee : *' Hamilton's mind is pictured in his verses. They are the easy and careless effusions of an elegant fancy and a chastened taste ; and the sentiments they convey are the genuine feelings of a tender and susceptible heart, which per- petually owned the dominion of some favourite mistress, but whose passion generally evaporated in song, and made no serious or per- manent impression/' Having entertained Jacobite predilectionsi he was engaged in the Rebellion in 1745 ; but, after a few years of exile, contrived to make his peace with the Government, and returned home. In 1754, he died at Lyons, in the 6ftieth year of his age, leaving behind him, besides some unpublished pieces, a volume of poetry, which has been repeatedly inserted in collec- tions of the British Poets. His patrimonial estate is now in the possession of his great grandson, James Hamilton, Esq. of Ban- gour and Ninewar, in East Lothian. The late incumbent of this parish, the Rev. Henry Listen, de- serves to be noticed among its few eminent men. He had a strong natural turn for mechanics and music. He was equally distin- guished for his scientific and classical attainments, and was in many other respects a man of genius. With talents adapted for a far wider sphere of usefulness, he spent his whole ministerial life of more than forty-two years in this secluded spot, endeared to his numerous friends by great warmth of heart and simplicity of character. His son is now a celebrated surgeon in London. Parochial Registers. — These exist in nearly unbroken sequence from 1662. The oldest, which is written in a fair hand, is en- titled ^^ Episcopall Discipline exercised by the Kirk-Session of Ecclesmachan." On the 28th of March 1683, it is minuted, '* Mr John Moubray, according to the appointment of the pres^ bytery, preached, and thereafter gave institution to Mr William Smairt to the ministry in this place, and the rest of the brethren off the presbytery gave the said Mr William the right hand off fellowship.'^ The only other noticeable peculiarity is a commis- sion from the Bishop of Edinburgh, in exercise of the civil power now vested in presbyteries, to certain ministers, authorizing them to visit and report on the manse and kirk of Ecclesmachan. The registers, subsequent to the Revolution, are kept in the usual form, and contain nothing remarkable. Land-owners — The proprietors are, the Earl of H.Ck^^v.wwv*. 112 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. James Hamilton, Esq. of Bangour; Robert Warden, Etq. of Blackcraig ; the Earl of Buchan also possesses a small pendicle of land. There is no country seat, nor any resident heritor in the parish. III.— Population. The population has probably diminished during the course of the last century, chiefly on account of the union of small farms, and the decay of the villages. There is now scarcely an individual in the parish who is not directly or indirectly employed in agri- culture. The following table will show the variations at the se- veral dates. We cannot account for the sm.illness of the number in 1792. Tlic popuJation in 1 755, according to Dr Webster, was 830 1792, former Statistical Account, "215 1801, Government census, . 303 1811, Do. . . 267 1B21, Do. . . d!)3 1831, Do. . . 299 1841, Government census, 303 The last amount was partially increased by an influx of railway labourers. A private census in 1839, which ascertiiincd only 263 inhabitants, gave the following results : Persons under fifteen years of age, 103; between fifteen and thirty, 76; between thirty and fifty, 35; between fifty and seventy, 19; above seventy, 10. The number of unmarried men above fifty, 6 ; number of unmarried women and widows above forty-five, 10. There are 31 fami« lies. The average number of children in families where there are any, is 3. The number of inhabited houses is 50 ; uninha- bited, 4. For the last three years, the average number of births is seven annually ; of deaths, two ; of marriages, one. In these three years have been born three illegitimate children. Forty-one families and 220 individuals belong to the Established Church ; ten families and 43 individuals are attached to the Dis- senters. Of these are eleven farmers, three blacksmiths, two car- penters, one mason, one tailor, two weavers, and ten day labourers. The rest of the males, and many of the females, are employed in agriculture. For many years past, there has not been a public- house in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The whole parish has been enclosed mostly by hedge and ditch, and only a few acres in it have never been sub- jected to the plough. The whole surface employed in tillage and pasture, little of which is permanent, may be estimated at 2310 ECCLESMACHAN. 113 imperial acres. On maDy of the fisirras^ the most improved sys- tem of husbandry has been introduced ; much^ however, remains to be done in the way of draining. In the western district of the parish, where, on account of the elevation, wheat is seldom or never grown, the usual rotation of crop is the following : oats green crop or fallow; barley or oats; hay ; pasture for one or two years. In the lower district, on heavy land, the crops are usually arranged thus : &llow, wheat, beans, barley, hay or pas- ture, oats; and, on the drier soils, thus, oats, turnip, barley, hay or pasture. In general, the tenant is restricted only to the extent that he is not permitted to take two green crops in succes* sion without manuring each of them. Throughout the whole of this country, there is an inclination to diminish the green crop, and to return to the old fallow system* With the exception of two or three, the farms are all under 150 imperial acres. They are all let on leases of nineteen years. The maximum rent is about L.2 the Scotch acre, and the mini- mum, L.1, 5s. The average rent is about L.1, 10s. the Scotch acre. On the Earl of Hopetoun's property, the rent is paid chiefly by the value of grain, ascertained from the annual Bars of Linlithgowshire. The gross average rental of the parish is about L.2845. It may be worth while to add, that the annual value of real property, as assessed by Government in 1815, was L.»3051. Live-Stock, — The rearing of cattle is not pursued to any great extent ; but a few short-horned bulls have been introduced, and between them and the Ayrshire breed, a valuable cross has been obtained, which is likely to be cultivated with success. Most of the grass is depastured, and the green crop consumed by Highland or Angus-shire oxen, purchased at the northern fairs, or by black- faced sheep procured from the same quarter. Produce. — The following may be taken as an estimate of the gross value of products from land in ordinary years : Grain, . Li.5225 . Green crop, including beans, 1100 Haj, .... 765 Pasture, . . 870 L.7960 Plantations. — There are about 130 imperial acres of growing wood. It is mostly young, and little or none of it has ever been brought to the markets A considerable part of it was planted by the late Robert Warden^ Esq., who thereby greatly improved and tidorned his estate of Blackcraig. Shelter is still wanted in soccv^ quarters of the parish. LINLITHGOW. "O- 1 14 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. V. — Parochial Economy. Villages. — There is scarcely a village in the parish, the hamlet at the church containing only eighteen houses. Post-Office. — The nearest post-office is at Uphall, which is dis- tant little more than a mile. Market- Towns. — The markets frequented by the farmers are those of Linlithgow and Bathgate, which are about five miles re- spectively from the centres of the two districts of the parish. Means of Communication. — The road from Edinburgh to Fal- kirk passes through the northern extremity for about half a mile» and the middle Glasgow road nearly touches the southern border. The parish roads are kept in excellent repair. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situate in the south- ern corner of the smallest section of the parish ; but in the most convenient position possible for the generality of the inhabitants. It was in a great measure rebuilt in the beginning of last century, and having undergone a thorough repair in 1822, it is at present in excellent order, and is neat and comfortable. It is provided with 153 sittings, which might easily be increased, if required, to about 200. It is about four miles by the road from the most dis- tant house. Considering the smallness of the population, the atF> tendance is generally good. The manse is supposed to have been built about 1606 ; but an addition was made in 1800 ; and though the accommodation is not extensive, it is, on the whole, sufficiently comfortable. The glebe and garden contain about four and a-half Scotch acres of good ground. The stipend consists of 58 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 lippies of oatmeal ; 58 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 lippies of bar- ley ; and L.146, lis. of money. In the Report of the Religious Instruction Commissioners, it is valued at L.256, lis. 8d., from an average of five years previous to 1836. The same report vap lued the unexhausted teind at L.140, lis. Id. Education. — The parish school and school-house, recently re- built, are in good order. The teacher has the maximum salary ; but the fees are small, and sometimes not well paid. The average attendance may be about 50 scholars, who are instructed in read, ing, writing, and arithmetic. On the extreme border of the pa- rish, where it meets those. of Uphall and Livingstone, a school was erected by the late Robert Warden, Esq., to whom the pa- rochial institutions were, in many respects, beholden. Though highly useful in the locality, its attendance has fluctuated much ; and it would be greatly benefited by an endowment. In summer, LIVINGSTONE. 116 It is used as a preaching station in the Sabbath evenings. Every person in the parish, of suitable age, is able to read. It is not ascertained that they can all write. • Poor and Parochial Funds. — At present there are three paupers on the roll ; viz. an aged woman, who receives 5s. a month, an il- legitimate child, and a lunatic confined in a private asylum. The heritors, support the latter by private assessment. A few re« ceive occasional assistance. The ordinary collections amount to about Ij.11, and there is, besides, the sum of L.2, I2s. per annum, the interest of bonded money. Hitherto, there has been no legal assessment ; but, it is feared, that one may at length become n^v cessary, from the demand of aliment for illegitimate children, to which this parish, owing to the shifting habit of its youthful po- pulation, and other unfavourable circumstances, is much exposedt Apnl 184a • » I ' U PARISH OF LIVINGSTONE. PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWBEDDALE« THE REV. JAMES M. ROBERTSON, MINISTER, THE REV. JOHN LAING, Assistant and Successor, I. — Topography and Natural History. Extenty ^c.-^The length of the parish is between 4 and 5 miles from west to east, and it is nearly 1^ mile in breadth at each end, but contracts in the middle to about half a mile. It contains 4463 Scotch acres. It is bounded on the north-west by Bath- gate and Ecclesmachan ; on the east, by Uphall and Mid-Calder ; on the south-east, by Mid-Calder ; south, by West Calder, from which two parishes it is separated by the Ammon and the Brieob waters ; and, on the west, by Whitburn. Topoyraphical Appearances, — The surface of the parish, though much varied, does not rise into any very distinct eminence, except one in the north-east corner, in the lands of Kpightsridge, called l>echmont Law, or Knightsridge Hill. * Though only 686 feet above the level of the sea, it commands a very extensive prospect. The climate, though rather moist, is favourable to health. The Ammon (which rises in the upper parts of Lanarkshire, 1 1 16 IJNLfTHOOWSHIEE. aud after a circuitous and somewbat rapid course in a north BMteiw ly direction, falls into the Frith of Forth at the Yillage of Craiiioad»^ is, in this parish, except for the purposes of mills, a very iongBifi^ cant stream in general, but when flooded, rises so as to be ilinoei magnificent, and increases in breadth to the great injaiy of ki banks. Geology and lilinerahffy.^^The Briech water has in it9 eourM gradually made several deep sections of the circumjacent stmta* These are of the coal formation, such as clays, shto-days, flee. In the bed of the river quantities of boulders appear. The moai striking natural feature of the parish is the eminence commonlj called Dechmont Law, which, with the surrounding ridges^ of which it is the apex, are of the trap-rock formation. The graeii* stone of the summit is succeeded by compact basalt lower down, and at the foot of the eastern side, fine blue shale appears. Cool and limestone abound at its eastern side, and thus, from its dooo connection with strata of the coal formation, it bears a striking aoo- logy to the larger trap formation of Arthur's Seat, &c. A lake-stpne rock, in the western part of the parish, is supposed to be fifty feet thick, dips one in every three feet to the north* west, and rises to the south-east. The lime, coal, and sandstono near it dip with equal rapidity, and in the same direction as tho lake-stone. Sandstone iit to be found in various directions, and from twelve to twenty feet thick. Lime, coal, and wfainstone abound over almost all the parish^ but hitherto they have not been very successfully worked. Botany. — Dechmont Law is in summer beautifully adorned with the yellow mountain-violet {Viola lutein) and white saxifrage {Saxt^ fraga granulata.) In a wood west from Liringstone village, tho elegant lesser winter-green {Pyrola tniiior) occurs. On the banks of a small stream half a mile above it, the great leopard's bane (Hv* ranicum Pardalianches) is met with ; and in the woods to the north, Habenaria bifolia^ UsUra ovata^ and Hypericum hbrmdum are frequently seen. II. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Patrick Murray, Baron of Livingstone, well de- serves to have his memory recorded* Living about the middle of the seventeenth century^^his young nobleman, in possession of an' Ample fortune, turned his attention to the study of naUird history, and, not oonteoted with forming at his own country-seat a botanic garden consisting of one thousand species of plants, a great col* LIVINGSTONE. 117 lection in those infant days of the science, he traversed foreign countries with a view to increase it. Having gone over the whole of France, he was, on his way to Italy, cut off by a fever, much to the prejudice of natural history in Scotland, and deeply regretted by those friends who could estimate the worth of charac- ter displayed by a youth, who, in the uncontrolled possession of an abundant fortune, could steadily devote himself to a praiseworthy pursuit. Patrick Murray had been the friend and pupil of Sir Andrew Balfour, who, after his death, had his plants transported to Edin- burgh, where, joining them to his own. Sir Andrew laid the foun- dation of the 6rst botanic garden in that city. Land-owners. — These are, the Earl of Rosebery; John Pit- cairn, Esq., Nether Dechmont ; William Wilson, Esq., Dech- mont ; Alexander Gray, Esq., Knightsridge ; Misses Burd, Sea- &eld ; William Erskine, Esq., Blackburn House ; Robert For- syth, Esq., Redhouse ; Thomas Balfour, Esq., MurrayGeld; Heirs of William Baird, Westwood ; Heirs of the Rev. Mr Kennedy, Briech* Parochial Registen. — Parochial registers were begun in 1696, and have been regularly kept since, but, owing to the smallness of the parish, are not voluminous. Antiquities^ — The house, or, as it was anciently called, the peel of Livingstone, was a fortiGed castle surrounded by a wet ditch about thirty feet wide, having a rampart of earth within ; more than three-fourths of this ditch and rampart remained entire till nearly the middle of last century. The more modern house of Living- stone was pulled down by the present proprietor, the Earl of Rose- bery, soon after his purchasing the principal part of the barony. About half a mile north-east of its site is the farm-house of New- Year Field : here, within these sixty years, stood the remains of a square tower, said to have been ahunting-seat of the Kings of Scotland, and frequented by them while Linlithgow was their stated residence, not only for amusement, but for the benevolent exercise of their prerogative of touching for the scrofula, for which disease the water of a spring-well adjoining was considered a spc- dfic, when applied by a royal hand upon the morning of New Yearns Day before sunrise. As no cures are recorded, may not we conjecture that the real beneGt was inducing both monarch and subjects to practise early rising and morning ablutions, though a&- 116 LIHLITHG0W8HIRB. suredly the substitutiDgmidsumtiier for the New* Year WMlAi to be an innprovemeDt on the plao. A field, called Maukes Hill, which, being intersected by dl» Ammon, is partly in that and partly in Mid-Calderparitbykco** sideredas a battle-6eld of long past years, but, as the tumuli oqb* taining stone-coflBns, skeletons, and all that gi? es Yerisimilitoda to the conjecture, have mostly been found in the part belongii^ to Mid- Calder, the elucidation of this somewhat obscure matter hb^ longs more properly to the account of that parish. IIL — Population. The former Statistical Account gives the population in 1 765 to be 598. The state of the population afterwards is as follows ; 1801, 551 1811, 879 1881, 10S5 1841, 1004 IV. — Industry. jtffricuUure.'^The whole of the parish is cultivated or in ptt^ * ture, except about 500 acres. There are not 200 acres of which may yet be drained and planted. From 250 to 300 are underwood, viz. spruce, larch, and Scotch fir, with a few bard* wood trees intermixed. Great attention is paid to the managiaN* ment of the plantations, particularly upon Lord Rosebery^s estateSf. where likewise they are most extensive, and where the yearly thin* nings are found very profitable. Ment. — The rent of land is believed to be about L.I, 4s. per acre. The Ayrshire and Teeswater milch cows are commonly kept^ often crossed with other breeds. The general character of the husbandry is a regular rotation of white and green crops, and then the land is laid down for pasture. Nineteen years is the duim- tion of the common lease. Quarries and Mines. — There are lime; whinstone, and saikU stone quarries. The lake-stone quarry, on the property of James Scales, Esq. in the vicinity of Blackburn village, which has been wrought for many years, is much famed for supplying excellent floors for ovens. It has hitherto given employment to six men in hewing and quarrying, and is sent to all parts of the country for nearly thirty miles round. Quarry now given up for encroacbiQg on the public road. The limestone on the same property b six feet thick, and lies upon a bed of slaty sandstone, called by the workmen «< blaes," four feet thick above the coal, which is like* LIVINGSTONE. 119 wise fbnr feet in thickness ; but the working of the coal and lime- stone have been given up for a number of years, the dip being so great as to make it unproductive. Manufactures, — There is a cotton spinning-mill at Blackburn, which employs about 120 men, women, and children above ten years of age. v.— Parochial Economy. There is no market-town in the parish. The nearest is Mid- Calder, at the distance of two miles. There are two villages, Li- vingstone in the east, and Blackburn in the west of the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated on the border of Mid-Calder, about half a-mile from the eastern extremity of Li- vingstone parish. It is very inconveniently situate for at least three-fourths of the population. The church was rebuilt in 1732, and is in very tolerable repair. It affords accommodation for about 300 people. The only free sittings are at the communion-table, which remains standing along the length of the church. The manse was built in 1803, at the accession of the present incumbent, and, being substantially built, has since received only trifling repairs. The glebe consists of six acres of land, valued at L.3 per acre. The amount of stipend, as allocated by the Teind Court, is 10 bolls bear, and 23 bolls meal, and L. 188, 5s. l^d. ; but, owing to some part of the teind being claimed by Whitburn, formerly a part of this parish, the stipend is not fully paid. There is a Dissenting chapel in the village of Blackburn, be- longing to the Independent persuasion. The minister is paid from the seat-rents and collections at the door. It is but thinly attend- ed, and is believed to have only 1 1 joined members. Three hundred and fourteen males, and 322 females, are con- sidered as belonging to the Established Church. The number r^ularly attending is too fluctuating to be exactly ascertained. One hundred and eighty-nine males, and 160 females, belong to the United Secession ; 4 males, and 5 females, to the Church of England ; 9 males, and l2 females, to the Church of Rome. 160 is the average number of communicants in the parish church. JS^uca/ton.— Number of schools, 2 ; 1 parochial and 1 unendow- ed. The parochial teacher has the maximum salary, with the legal accommodations of dwelling-house, school-house, and garden. Ji Sabbath school and parish library was set on foot in the vil- lage of Livingstone four years ago. It consists of nearly 300 well selected volumes, and is supported by subscription, and much jprized by the population. 120 LINL1THGOW8HIBB. Friendly Sodehf. — A Friendly Society wm establislMd in buru in the year 1799, which has been of much beaefil to itp. members, whose numbers are 80 at present, and their stodLa a oyp te to L. 125 Sterling. Poor and Paroehial Jaaid!f^— There are 27 persons tm tht loU of poor. The aTerage weekly allowance u Is. 6d. Inns. — There are five public-houses in the parish, and three' small shops in which spirits are retailed. ' Fuel — The fuel in general use b from Beobar coal-worfc, aboat four miles from the western extremity of the parish. The eoal is of first*rate quality, and costs 6s. 6d. per ton on the kilL April 1843. PARISH OF BORROWSTOWNNESS. PRESBYTERY OF UNLITHGkOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN &TWEKDB4LI. THE REV. KENNETH MACKENZIE, MINISTER. I. — ToFOORAPHT AND NaTDRAL HiSTORT. BoHRowsTowNNBSS has become the prevailing name of the unit* ed parishes of Kinneiland Borrowstownness, although KinueU'waa the original parish, and the other existed as a separate parishf only twenty years. Ncane and Situation. — The town of Borrowstownness, coounoiilj pronounced and writteo Bo^ness, owes its name to its locality, be- ing situated on a point of land, or r^m, projecting into the l^tk of Forth, and about three-quarters of a mile north from the villag!» of Borrowstown, formerly BurwardstouD. Extent^ Boundaries^ ^c — The parish is of a triangular form^ extending about four miles from east to west, the medium breadth from north to south being about two miles. The superfidal ex- tent is about 4| square miles. It is bounded on the north by the Frith of Forth ; on the east by the parbh of Carriden ; on the south and west by the parish of Linlithgow, and by the river Avod^ which separates it from the parishes of Muiravonside and PolmoDt» Topographical Appearances. — The surface of the parish is un- even, excepting the Carse of KinneiL The highest part is in the south-east angle, which rises to an elevation of about 520 feet above the Frith. From this eminence, called Irongath Hil]» or BORROW8TOWNNES6* 121 Glour o'er 'em. ibe surface slopes gradually to the banks of the Avon, on the south and west On the north the slope terminates abruptly in a steep bank, which extends the whole length of the parish, Tarying in elevation and in its distance from the shore, and is beautifully wooded from Kinneil House to the Avon. From the top of Glour o'er ^em, the admirer of nature may enjoy one of the finest views in Scotland. Meteoroloffy.'^The climate, though variable, is remarkably sa- lubrious. Hydrography. — The Frith of Forth is about two miles and a^ half broad between Bo'ness and Culross, and about three miles broad between the mouth of the Avon and Culross. In the middle of the channel between these places, the depth is from five to nine fathoms. Between Bo'ness and Preston Island, the depth is about four fathoms and a-half, and gradually increases to seventeen and upwards towards Queensferry. Above Bo'ness the depth of mid- channel diminishes to three fathoms towards Grangemouth. Pres- ton Island lies near the north shore ; and the south side of the channel being free from rocks, the navigation is safe, and the an- chorage is good ofi* the Port of Bo'ness. Between Bo'ness and Grangemouth the Frith is shallow, and, at ebb-tide, the water re- cedes to a considerable distance from the shore, leaving a great extent of muddy surface, through which the stream of the Avon passes in a channel which is variable. There is a rise of not less than 25 feet of water in the middle of the Frith at high spring tides. At Bo'ness it is full and changes about three o'clock ; and it is high water nearly eight minutes later than at Leith. The influence of the river Avon, and other tributaries, on the waterof the Frith, is perceptible in the production of salt, as might be expected from the diminution of specific gravity. Specific gravity of sur&ce water, taken from the middle of the Frith, off Bo'ness, after a long continuation of rain : High water, specific gravity, 1.0206, at 574" Fahrenheit. Low water, specific gravity, 1.0190, at 57" Fahrenheit. Si>ecific gravity of surface water after a long duration of fair weather: High water, specific gravity, 1.02929, at 564** Fahrenheit. Low water, specific gravity, 1.02234, at 564 "* Fahrenheit. The river Avon, which forms the western boundary of the pa- rish, and has its sources in the high parts of the parishes of Fal- kirk and Slamannan, is a considerable stream, having a copious supply of water, and a considerable fall between Linlithgow Bridge and its discharge into the Frith. Several milU Vvw^X^^'e^ ^\%.Oc^^ 1 123 LINLITHG0W8HIRB. - on its banks, but three only are in operation at preaent in tht pft» fish, and belong to the Duke of Hamilton. Two of grain-mills ; the third was erected for grinding malt for the in Bo'ness, but is employed at present for grinding flint fiir tin pottery. The Dean or Den Bum, and the Oil Bum, two strMnlala running in ravines near Kinneil House, add to the beauty of tha scenery, but are too small for any mechanical adnmtage. The number of coal-pits sunk in the neighbourhood has raft* dered the supply of water in the town scanty ; but there art a»> yeral good springs in the landward part of the parish. One of these, at a small distance from the town, affords a copious supplj of excellent water, part of which is conveyed to the town in pipaSi* Geology and Mineralogy* — The strata in this parish are all of the coal formation. They lie with considerable regularity, and in general dip to the west, at the rate of from one in six, to ene in ten. There is no appearance of trap dikes passing through the seams of coal, except at the south-east comer of the parish, where Irongath Hill, or Glour o'er 'em, appears protmded through them* There is a great quantity of apparently trap rock lying in beds in the strata ; and though there is a considerable number of dikes or slips in the strata, almost all mnning nearly east and west, these slips seldom alter the quality of the coaL A general section of the strata at the Snab, a site lately spoken of as the best for a new winning of the coal-Geld (the pre- sent being considerably exhausted), may be stated as follows i-^ ThickneM TbickncM Thicknasi Tbiekntn 4 if seams of earth j of seams of earthy ( Df coal. strata. ofooaL •traca« From surface. Peet. Fatb. From suriSwe. Feei. Fath. Sandstone and shale, Section brought ibrward,304 J87 aay 15 Coal, (red,) 3 Coalt local name Shale, sandstone^ and (Monthunger,) Sk ironstone, 16 Sandstone and diale, Coal, kwal name (fool,) 54 . about 36 Sandstone and shales J2 Coal, (splinty ) 3 Coal, (Easter Main,) 5 Sandstone and shale, 11 Shale and sandstone^ 12 Coal, (Corbyhal!,) 5 Coal, (smithy,) . 24 Sandstone and shale, 8 Shale, ... 2 Coal« (seren-fbot,) 6 Coal,— (Caursay,) 2 Sandstone and shale, 11 Coal,localDame(Utt1e,)2 484 179 Sandstone and shale. 8 Add thickness of coals Coal, ( Wester Main,) 11 tostoney strata, Bi% Shale and sandstone, 49 187JW 304 187 . • * The mineral water mentioned by Sir Robert Sibbald is at present scarctly no- ticed, although it has given the name tVelt d* Spa to a locality near the west «id of Bo*ni BORRO WSTOWNNRSS. 1 23 No coal has ever been found in this district under the Caursay coal ; and as t^ese lowest correspond closely with the lowest seams in the Fife strata, it may be safely inferred, that there are no workable seams below this one. It is remarkable, however, that the limestone, which, on the Fife side, makes its appearance about 85 fathoms under the lowest seam, does not appear in Carriden, where these lowest seams crop out to the surface. Above the strata mentioned in the section, to the west of the Snab takes on one or two inferior seams of coal, which were par« tially wrought in former times, when the duty was on the salt, for the salt-pans. And further to the westward (at Craiginbuck,) takes on a seam of limestome, which at one time was wrought, af- fording an excellent building mortar. This seam appears to be the same as that on the opposite side of the Forth, at Blair House, which was wrought three years ago. Some fine specimens of petrifaction have been found in a bed of sandstone, on the east bank of the Avon, near Inneravon. A remarkable bed of shells has long been known to exist in the bank near Inneravon. By recent excavations in various parts of the bank, between Inneravon and Kinneil House, the bed of shells appears to be continuous between these two places. It consists chiefly of oyster shells. A species of muscle shell is seen in some places ; and in one place, part of the mass is petrified. Large trees have been found deeply imbedded in the mud in the Carse ; and horns and bones of deer and other animals have been found, about twelve feet below the surface, in the excava- tions for the bridge lately built across the Avon. Botany, — Bo'ness parish, although of limited extent, exhibits rather a numerous Flora, including a large proportion of the whole plants of Linlithgowshire, some of which appear to be confined within its limits. On taking a general view of the botany of the county, there is not perhaps much, excluding the Cryptogamia, which has not been found in the rich neighbouring district of Edinburgh ; while many of the more interesting plants of the coast disappear westward, and those of the higher range of the Pentlands are not met with on the less elevated hills of Linlithgowshire. Partaking, however, of the same advantage of situation upon the Frith of Forth (an arm of the sea, it may be observed, which, besides being remark* able for (he many rare plants found on its shores, would seem, by its influence upon the climate and scenery, to enrich the 124 rmLITHGOWSHIBE* * botany of the whole valley of Forth ;) poiaesshig alia tht portant requisite of every variety of soil, thb oouoty is &r being deficient in a botanical point of view. If the directed to that part of it which compcehends the parish of UtTnnMH although promising in its general features, it would scarody bt a«» pected, on a more particular inspection, to be the best loealitj te plants. The maritime species, which, as said before^ gradually dft» minish in numbers as the shore of the Frith is traced upwafd% vill be seen, on reaching this, to have almost entirely disappenwdt owing to the great accumulation of mud,, and perhaps, also^ the diminished saltness of the water. Besides thn, there is do giound sufficiently elevated for producing the plants of high situations. The Flora of the parish is thus so fiir wanting in variety. Thwi are, however, certain favourable circumstances which account for the large number of plants, on the whole^ to be met witlu Tim scenery is finely diversified with woods and plantations, which shel* ter in abundance their peculiar species. The river Avon, ako^ forming the boundary on the west, appears to have brought down the rarer plants which are found in ascending its higher course. The deep rocky dens at Tod's mill accordingly abound with suchy and Scirpus sylvaticuSf Melica nutanSf Chryiospleniwn tUiermifiMtamf Eupatvrium cannabimun^ TroUivs europmu; and plants by no means commonly met with may there be gathered in abundance, if the romantic beauty of the scene^ as the river winds amidst its steep and wooded banks, may allow the eye to rest upon the humbler vegetation around. The flowering fern, Osmunda regalu^ is also seen in this spot, but does not extend higher up ; although frequent enough on the west coast, it appears in Scotland to shun the sharper breezes of the east; and the station just mentioned is probably the nearest to Edinbuigh. Toiiula rigiday a small spo* cies of moss, which is chiefly confined to the south of Englandf also grows abundantly by the river side at Inneravon. The pre- sence of these two plants, especially the fern, seems to indicate a certain approach to a western climate, or is owing to the highly sheltered situation. The flowering fern becomes more frequdit in Stirlingshire. Among the few maritime plants within the bounds may be mentioned Seirpus mariHmm^ and Aster tripoliumj which are seen in the summer months plentifully covering the brackish marshes below Kinneil. The aster is not a rare plant, and is ineDtioned chiefly because it was found in the same place by Sibbald neariy BORROWSTOWNNESS* 125 one hundred and eighty years ago; and what is more deserviiig of no- tice, as connected with the gradual changes which take place in es- tuaries, he also observed growing on the shore, ThaHctrum mmus^ and Arundo arenaria^ a strictly maritime plant, and so well known to bind the loose sand of the sea shore ; neither of which are now to be seen ; a circumstance of some importance, as it confirms the supposition derived from other observations, that there has been a ^reat increase of the sleeches since Sibbald's time, and in some «pots even a change from a comparatively sandy to a muddy beach. On searching the shore eastward, the same plants do not begin to appear for several miles, until the shore changes its character. The natural copse wood of Kinneil, the only one in the county, affords, as might be expected, some rather peculiar plants, among which may be reckoned Betonica officinalis^ very rare in this part •of Scotland, and Habenaria albida^ for which it is a singular sta- tion, that being a plant of hilly pastures. It is chiefly in this wood that the additions to the Scottish Cryptogamia were found, and which will be afterwards specified. Geranium phcBum^ Listera Ni* Jus^Avis^ Arum maadatum^ are a few of the rarer flowering plants to be met with in the woods. In regard to the comparative pre- valence of natural orders, the Graminise are the most numerous in species, the Orchidiae somewhat deficient. The common reed £lls the ditches and wet places of the carse lands. Poa aquatica^ and Festuca elatior^ grasses of highly nutritive properties, are abundant by the side of the Avon. Of the Cryptogamia, the Musci are not uninteresting. Ht/p* nwn murale and Tortula revoluta are frequent in old stone walls about ItinneiL Tetraphis Browniana and Jungermannia furcata occur in fruit ; the latter very rare in the Dean plantation. Z>t- •cranum Jlexuosum covers the entire bank at Tod's Mill in abun- dant fructification. Hypnum piliferum is common, but not in fruit, although it may be obtained in that state about Hopetoun woods, in the parish of Abercom. Of the Lichenes and Algae, there is nothing particular to be «aid. The marine are very scarce, from the nature of the beach. The Fungi now remain to be noticed, which, as they have not been so extensively investigated in Scotland, as other plants, may, on that account, be expected to afibrd greater novelties. The agarics are particularly numerous. In this parish two localities for these may be distinguished as abounding in kinds of genc^rally different forms and qualities. In the rich old pastures of Kitmeil m 126 LINL1THG0W8HIBB. those of fragile and delicate appearance ofteo dtasolYiiig in deenf may be looked for, while tba surrouodiDg woods and plantatkwii Imv» hour the larger species, which are usually acrid or tufted. Among tlMT latter, Affaricus Piperaius^ VoUmwoi^ FlexuasuMj VeUereuM^ although not generally common^ are abundant under Kinn Of the former A. Soioerbeif a curious species, may be mentioiwd as growing on the bank by the shore. The following list of IVugi of different genera, gathered in the woods immediately around KiiH neil, are allowed to be additions to the Scottish flora ; the first nine are likewise quite new to Britain. The names are chiefly Uioea of Fries and Berkeley. Several species, apparently undescribed, were met with ; buty as they have not yet been suflBciendy examined, it is not judged proper to publish them in this place. Although Fungi are obscure plants^ and little regarded, the subjoined list may be useful as a guide to those who attend to such things in other parts of the country, be-' sides appearing necessary to complete this botanical view. Agaricot aaccbarinus AgBriem grammopodiut Agarieiia eollinitut «... algidus .,i..,,i , butyraoeus >^...,.,— .., plumoaui Arcyria ftuca .^.>.„., .^ camptopbyllui >^...,.,— .., erinaceus Stemonitis typhoides ,.. gljekwmus ...., meditia Didymium costatum ,>., capillaria m Iria .....I..*.......*, claTus , „.... deplueni Canthardhii dnuoaoa Didcrma lepidota »■>—»■■»«»■■■ raoemosua wm»»mfmmm»f^»M*,»0m SHilia Cribraria fulva ,. ..... ■ ptcrigenus Memlioi pallant 0»0mM0»—»m»0m at^llacea «—!.«——»»— itriocllua nydnaos oehraeauin Agaricus albo-brunniui ..,»■.. n.,.., thodopoliua , iidmn ...........^ IuItus m ii.i.i.. ■ ■ retieulatui PwUlburia quiaquiliaria m ■■■ oolumbetta Sowerbci Didymium cinereum v *»m m » — 0» m fbetms i..i-i»»».i. Yanus »»■>««»»■..»»«■.■" nrinacaum ««»M...«^ ftimotus M..........^ taneulneua Doratomyces neesii cotdft ...I bleDDina ,. ..... ■ radiootua Diochia elegana* As the various species of fungi are more generally distributed ia temperate regions, to which they are chiefly confined, than plantf of higher rank, owing, perha|)s, to their greater simplicity of struo* ture, it is very probable that all of the above might be found throughout Britain wherever those circumstances chiefly required for the production of the order, shade, and moisture exist The fungi of the continent, indeed, are in a great many cases iden- tical with those of this country. To this law of comparatively ge* neral distribution, there are, however, exceptions, and some of the species appear to be very local, their diffusion depending upon causes which are not understood. There is also a peculiarity con- ' * Mr James C. Baucbop, wbo communicated tbb article on botany, rabmlttwl ipoeimcoa of nearly all tlie Fmgi to the R«t. Mr Berkeley, tlie beet autliority on the tuljcct in tbit country, vho eoafirmcd or detcrmiiied the namei of tbe ipceiM.- 4 BORROWSTOWNNBSS. 127 nected with the stations of fungi : while some species are equally constant to these as the higher tribes of plants, there are others very uncertain in this respect, disappearing for a succession of sea- sons together, seemingly without any i^elation to the more obvious induence of moist weather. The causes of this would appear .to be obscure as the plants themselves, but the fact probably points to a Geld of investigation in some measure peculiar to them, al- though, in regard to the more general views of botanical geogra- phy, they may have less claim upon the attention. The following is a general list of a few more of the rarer plants : Hippurb vulgaris Orthotricum diaphioum Agaricus mutabilis' Veronica montana Hookeria lucens _ titubans Viburnum opiilus Hypnutn oomplanatum Taginatus Fedia olitoria Grimmia tricopbylla ■ fuliginosus Aira crlstata Hypnum alopecurum - flaccidus Milium effusum Brium legulatum ■ - parasiticus Festuea bromoides rostratum - oocbleatus Sagina maritima Jungerroannia crenulata Cantharrttua eornneopioidea Adoxa moschatellina — — — pofyganthos ■ lutescens Origanum vulgaie Marcbantia conica Radulum orbicura ITIaiaiiiiiiiii umbellatum Calocera viscosa Gkrex curta Fungi. Helvalla dostica Agariciis ceraceus Leotia lubrica Muse If &c. in fruit. - confluens Pezeza macropus Gymnostomuni Heimii »— clayus Physarum sinuosum Didymodon trifarum ■ scaber Geoglossum cucullatum heteromallum Ornithology. — The only bird at all rare is the fauvette {Sylvia hortensis.) It seems to be as common some seasons about Kin- neil as the black-cap, and is probably generally so throughout Scotland, although overlooked from its similarity to others. II. — Civil History. Parochial Records. — The parochial records consist of, Istj five volumes of minutes of session, regularly kept from 1694, and af- fording interesting information regarding the state of morality and religion in the parish in former times; 2^, six volumes of registers of births, baptisms, proclamations, and marriages ; the oldest vo- lumes are imperfect ; the earliest entry is dated 1648 ; de/, two volumes recording deaths, the first from 1736 to 1783, the se- cond from 1808 to the present time ; 4thj several volumes relating to the management of the poor's funds. AuHquities. — The Wall of Antoninus, commonly called Gra- ham's Dyke, traversed this parish. This celebrated rampart, in its course between the Friths of Forth and Clyde, crossed the river Avon, the western boundary of the parish, near Inneravon, and proceeded in an easterly direction towards Carrideu or Aber- eoni ; and its tract is still visible at various places along the high 128 UNLITHGOWSHIBBtf grounds of the parish. Traces of the mQitary road on the side of the rampart have been leeendy disoovered near bmamM^ and also in two diferent fields east from Kmneil House. It k ge- nerally supposed that a stsftion existed at Inneravon, and pMhi> bly there was another at KinneiL The wall was eonstmeledt ttoi by one, but by several indifidiials, at different periods ; and fSbmg seem to have terminated the work at different places.* Heliee has arisen some diversity of opinion regarding the site of the p l a e e f whose name Bede and Nennius have so particolarly recorded, and near to which, according to them, was the eastern termination of the rampart The notices of ancient historians, and the reseaitfaei of modem times, point to one or the other of two localities»f vis* to Kinneil in this parish, and to Weltouo in the parish of Cam- den, as the place referred to by Bede and Nennius. Peiiiaps the name or names mentioned by these authors refer to both]: plaoes, and not to one of them exclusively. Cenail,§ (which Nenniut mentions as Scottish, t. e. Celtic, indicating an earlier periodf) may refer to Kinneil, || where the earliest termination of the wall is generally supposed to have been ; and Penguaul, Penfabel, and * The situation of Kinneil, oommanding so eztendTe a Tieir of the Frith of Fotlh« was most suitable for a watch-toirer, and especially for one terminating the Hnt of forts erected between Forth and Clyde by AgriodU. The wall after wat da uu ii H is H ed by LoUius Urbicus might advantageously hare terminated at this wateb-tovw | and the situation being one of importance, and probably much frequented, a ▼O^ps might spring up in its Tictnity at an early period. And though aftcrwarda, on ob lerent occasions, additional forta or towers were erected, and the wall was repairod* and extended fiuther east, yet the Tillage in the vicinity of the original termioatioo of the rampart would retain iu name, even though another station might be ereelad omt the more recent termination, and a name of similar import given to it. A vSkico near the eastern termination of the wall of Severoa was eaUed Wallseod. f The termination of the wall, according to Glides, was near Carriden, about Cvo miles west from Abercom ;— aeoording to Bede» about two miles west from Abor- com, at a place called Penfidiel or Penieltun ;— aoeordiDg to Netmioa, at a ploit oil* led Penguaul, or Peneltun, or Cenail ;— and, according to Fordun, near Carridoo* It was the opinion of Sibbald, one of the earliest antiquarians who considered thhoob- ject, that Penvahel or Peneltun of Bode was the very same as Walltown or WollMM nesr Carriden. Yet more recent and abler antiquarians have considered Oeoail, Pin* vsheU and Peneltun of the more aoeient aotbors the same as KinneiL X Regarding Nennius, Ritson remarks, ^^ He had already confounded the watt of the real Severus with that of Antoninus, and now confounds another Sevems wltb oooMbody else." Perhaps in thia instance he has confoonded two names whieh» tboogli of nmilar import, refer to two diffisrent localities. S Cenail is evidenly Celtic, and may be derived Ihmi Cacm, ** head** or '^ond,*' and /d, <« sod,** ^' tur^'* '* wall," or «» icDco".-^e possessivo case of which is fkA, Iwvins fh perfectly quiescent. Cenail may thus signiijr ** end of the turf wall*' or '• walU ood." Pencuaul or Penvahel is Cambro-Brttish, Mgnliying *• waU-bead" or ^ waU* end ;" and rendtun has the same aignlfioatioo, with the additioa of tiie Suoo tM* onnation ** tun ** U Cenail, mentioned only by Nennius, (who does not specify distanoo nor mentloO' Carriden or Abercom,) correqxmds with Kinneil, at least in pronunoiatioo : wWlstb In respect of both pronunciation and distance, Penvahd and Peodtun of Bcdo cor^ g tsp uud better with Weltocn hi Curidon than with Kinnta BORROWSTOWNNEJSS. 129 Peneltun, (Cambro- British, and Saxon, indicating a later period,) may refer to Weltoun,* which is farther east than Kitineil, and which, probably, is not far Jb'om the place to which the wall was finally extended. Near the farm-steading of Upper Kinneil, and a little south of the Roman wall, there was a small tumulus or cairn, locally known by the name of the Laughing Hill. On its being opened to ob- tain stones for drains, four stone-coffins and four urns were found. The coffins contained black mould ; and the urns, which were full of human bones, were inverted aqd placed upon flat stones. Probably the bodies were burned, and, after the calcined bones were collected and put into the urns, the remaining ashes were put into the coffins. The bones, when first discovered, were al- most white ; but, when exposed to the air, they very soon became black, and crumbled to dust. Several pieces of charcoal were found amongst them. A stone coffin and an urn, similar to those already mentioned, were foundi in the north side of an eminence called Bell's Know, immediately above the town of Bo'ness. A curious battle axe, coins, and other antiquities, have been found in different parts of the parish. One of the coins last found is a large silver piece of James VI. Near Inneravon, there is an old tower, with traces of consider- able ruins connected with it. Sibbald calls it a Roman watch* tower; but it has not the aspect of a Roman tower. In the Auchinleck Chronicle of James II., it is mentioned, that, in the beginning of March 1455, ^* James II. kest down the Castell of Inveravyne, and sine incontinent passed till Glasgow," on an ex- pedition against Douglasdale, &c. The old ruin at Inveravon is most probably one of the corner towers of the Castle of Innera- von, built on the site of the Roman station. Below Kinneil House, upon the coast, there was formerly a cas- * It is not surprising that Penguaul, Pen/ahel, and Pcneltun should ultimately be- come Weltun or Weltoun, through the prevailing influence of the Saxon language. Th« omission of the initial syllable is not without example. Edinburgh was, and ttill is, Dun-Eiden in Celtic ; Incuningham is now Cunningham ; Linlithgow is oe- casionally written Lithgow, even in important documents. The interchange of gn^ m, and/in pronunciation, may be traced, even to this day, in different parts of Scot- land. Weltoan seems to have been a locality of some notoriety nearly 200 years be- fore Sibbald wrote his Account of Linlithgowshire. Alexander Hamilton in le Uraoge, had a charter, under the great »cal, of the lands of Weltoun in Linlithgow- «hir», of date 8th February 1524. Two important requisites of a Roman station ex- 1st ut Weltoun, vit. an eminence, and a good supply of water. Thcae might have rendered it an eligible site for a station, although the wall, probably, did not tcriiii- natc at that place, but in itn vicinity, and nearer to the FHth. LINLITHGOW. ^ 130 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. tic, named Castle Lyon. It was built by a lady of the house of Glamis, and was probably the jointure house of Lady Bfargaret Lyon, daughter of Lord Glamis, and widow of John, first Mar« quis of Hamilton. A path leading from the high ground towards the shore, still called the Castle Loan, and some remains of a wdl, called the Castle garden wall, indicate that the site of Castle Lyon was near the Snab. Kinneil House. — Kinneil House, one of the family seats of the Duke of Hamilton, is the most remarkable building in the parish. The barony of Kinneil is one of the most ancient possessions of the house of Hamilton, and is associated with some interesting events in the history of that noble family. According to " Ffrier Mark Hamiltonis Historie," King Ro- bert the Bruce gave all the lands of Kinneil to Sir Gilbert Ha- milton, ^^ for his trew service and greit manheid,'' and especially for having slain '^ the greit Lieutennant of Yngland upon Kyn- nale Muir."* From the same authority we learn, that this Sir Gilbert had been with The Bruce in the field of BannockbuFDi and was one of the seven knights that kept the King's person. For Sir Gilbert's exploit upon Kynnale Muir, ** King Robert gaif till him his armis till weir in Scotland, thre sinkfuilzies in anc bludy feild." The descendants of Sir Gilbert have held the lands and barony of Kinneil by various charters from the kings of Scotland. One of the earliest is dated July 28th 13*23, granted by Robert L, in favour of Walter, the son of Gil- bert. A charter of the lands and barony of Kinneil was granted to James, the first Lord Hamilton, who, in 1474, married the Countess of Arran, which event connected the house of Hamilton with the royal family of Scotland. When the Duke of Charterherault was Regent, he made lai^ repairs \ipon Kinneil House. Considerable alterations were made upon it by Duchess Anne and Duke William, who, according to Sibbald, greatly embellished it. Probably, at this period, the old castle or keep was modernized in the front, but not in good taste. Tbe battlement was converted into a cornice and balusters ; the * Id a place formerly known as Kinneil Muir, a remarkable stone lay near th« road which used to be a thoroughfare between Linlithgow and Falkirk, or Stirling, It was seven feet long, five feet broad, and three feet thick. lis upper surface had been roughly dressed, a groove had been cut round the border, and a cross in the cen- tre. It had a monumental appearance ; but there is no vestige of tradition regards ing it. Excepting the achievement of Sir Gilbert, there is no remarkable event ffiygiat- ed with the locality. About twenty years ago, the stone, being an obstruction to tbe plough, was blown to pieces and removed. BORROWSTOWNNESS. 131 windows were enlarged, and a staircase was erected at each end. A wing projecting eastward was erected on the north ; and, appa- rently, a corresponding wing was intended to have been placed on the south, so as to form three sides of a square. Kinneil House is built on the edge of a bank, about sixty feet above the level of the sea, and is surrounded with a considerable quantity of natural wood. The approach is from the east, along a beautiful avenue of aged trees. From the roof of the main build- ing, which is flat, and covered with lead, there is an extensive and beautiful prospect. The admirable situation of Kinneil Housei and the natural beauties connected with it, warrant Sibbald's mag- ni¢ description of this *' princely seat." But the hand of time has changed the scene ; the natural beauties of the place remain^ but those of art, which Sibbald so much admired, have been ef- faced, and the internal decorations are gone. The numerous and spacious apartments of Kinneil House are at present uninhabited. Though in former times it was the abode of nobles, and the re- treat of kings, the present generation will regard it rather as the fevourite residence of the philosopher and philanthropist*. Tlie celebrated Dugald Stewart resided here about twenty years ; c^nd from this place he has dated most of those works which are the imperishable monuments of his genius. The removal of Mrs and Miss Stewart, who were the last occupants of Kinneil House, was much regretted by every inhabitant of the parish ; and the active and extensive benevolence of that family will be long and grate- fully remembered. Celebrated Characiere. — Other names besides Professor Stew* art's mav be mentioned, as connected with both Kinneil and the University of Edinburgh. Principal Wishart was the son of the last minister of Kinneil ; and Principal Baird, whose name will ever be associated with the cause of education in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, was a native of this parish. A considerable number of clergymen might be mentioned as connected with this parish by birth or residence. One family has produced four clergymen of the Church of Scotland, all of dis- tinguished excellence, though perhaps the editor of the last edi- tion of Wodrow's Church History is best known to fame. The celebrated James Watt matured some of his improvements on the steam-engine, during his residence at Kinneil House. Ip 1769, Mr Watt, oh the recommendation of Dr Black of Glasgow, entered into an engagement with Dr Roebuck, of Carron Iron- 132 LINL1TH00W8HIRC. works, a man equally emineot for kindness of hearty ability enterprise. Dr Roebuck at this time rented the ooal-worka om Ihii . estate of Kinneil. Under the superintendence of Mr Wal^ ■ small steam-engine was constructed at Kinneil House. TIm Of* Under was made of block tin, and was eighteen iocbei dJ a i— t iin The Grst experiment was made at one of the coal^minei, and lbs action of the engine far surpassed even the sanguine ezpaebHioM of the proprietors. Indeed, so great was Watt's suoces% dni hm procured a patent *^ for saving steam and fuel in fire-engiDei^'* Another place, however, was destined to be the fi^ld of hb proa ■ perous career. The pecuniary diflSculties in which Dr Roebudt became at this time involved, checked the proceedings at KiQnail i and soon afterwards, Mr Watt formed a connection with Mr Boulton, under the celebrated firm, Boulton, Watt, and Go. Soho^ Birmingham. The building at Kinneil in which Watt constructed the inn proved engine still remains. There are several circumstances connected with this parish, and referring to the troublous times before the Revolution, which are worthy of being noticed. Many of them are recorded by Wodiow* Mr William Wishart, the last minister of the parish of Kinneil^ was amongst the earliest victims of the persecution which menced in 1660. In the month of July he officiated at and in September following, he was imprisoned in Edinbuigfai On an application from the presbytery of Linlithgow in 1661, he was freed from confinement; but in 1675 letters of interoommun* ing were issued against him. He continued in prison till 1685^ when a sentence of banishment was pronounced against him ; bar» owing to the death of the King, this •sentence was not carried into effect, and he was liberated under bond to compear when called. He was residing at Leith in 1691. He had three sons who attain^ ed to great distinction, 8ir George Wishart of Clifton Hall, Rear- Admiral Wishart, and Principal Wishart of the Univernty of Edinbuifrh. The admiral, having no children, left his fortunef- amounting to L.1 6,000 or L.20,000, to the Principal. Mr John Wauch was the first minister of the parish of Bonnets. He, too, sufiered in the persecution, having be«n denounced in 1678. He probably retired to Ireland, as did some of the other members of the presbytery of Linlithgow. During Episcopacy, the induction of Mr James Haaulton in BORBOWSTOWNN KSS. 133 1678, and also that of Mr William Thomson in 1685, are noted in the parish record. On November 30th 1687, the brethren of the presbytery of Linlithgow met at Bo'ness, '^ and having called upon the name of God, they did constitute themselves in a presbytery." This was probably the first of the regular meetings of the presbytery after the liberty. And on December 7th they met again at Bo'ness, *^ in order to the settling of Mr Michael Potter to be minister unto the Presbyterian congregation of the Ness." This Mr Potter had been subjected to the most rigorous per- secution. In 1673, he passed his trials before some Presbyterian ministers, and soon after was privately ordained upon a call from a great body of Presbyterians in the parish of St Ninians. At the instigation of the Bishop of Dimblane, a violent persecution was raised against him, which compelled him twice to retire to Holland. He was at last apprehended in his own house in Bo'ness in 1681, and imprisoned in^Edinburgh, and afterwards sent to the Bass. In 1685, his confinement in the Bass was altered into an act of banishment. But circumstances preventing bis going once more to Holland, he remained in secrecy till the liberty in 1687, • when he was seittled in Bo'ness. In 1693, he was called to £c- clesmachan, and afterwards to Dunblane, where he died. His son was minister of Kippen, and afterwards Professor of Divinity in the University of Glasgow. Mr Robert Hamilton, afterwards Sir Robert, (son of Sir Tho- mas Hamilton of Preston and Pingalton), who was very promi- nent and zealous in the cause of the Covenanters, resided at Bo'- ness for some time previous to his death, which took place in 1701. The following names are recorded amongst the worthies who experienced the violence of persecution. Belonging to Kinneil, Mr Robert Hamilton, son of the Chamberlain of Kinneil, regard- ing whom there are still some traditional recollections, was impri- soned and tortured, and Andrew Murdoch was banished. Be- longing to Bo'ness, Archibald Stewart, William Gougar, William Cuthill, and the intrepid and devoted Marion Harvey, were exe- cuted. John Gib, a sailor in Bo'ness, was the leader of that remarkable sect of fanatics who appeared a short time before the Revolution, and assumed the name of '^ Sweet Singers," but were generally called Gibbites. The memory of Mr John Henderson, shipmaster, is held in 1^4 LlllL1THOOW9HIRR« kigh estimation in this place. He was born in I6869 and died & 1758. He was a man of singular humility, beoefoleiie9» and piety, spending much of bit time in divine meditations,** whibb he was in the habit of committing to writing, ** to keep his heart flrooi wandering) and fixt it upon divine and spiritiial sabjeda.^ A small selection from these meditations was published ahser Us death, and forms a composition remarkable for the regularitj of ks structure, and for the simplicity, spirituality, and {enroar of ko devotional sentiments.* 1 1 1. — POPUL ATI ON. Kinneil was a conriderable town long before any popuIatioD had collected at the Nes& In the year 166t, there were 659 *'oon- municable" persons in the parish of Kinneil, the greater part of whom resided in the town of Kinneil. Probably the increaao of trade at the Ness, and other causes, withdrew the population from the town of Kinneil ; so that in 1691, it was almost wholly demo- lished ; a few families only remained. But the great improw- ments in agriculture, since the middle of the eighteenth century, have in some measure restored the population of the barony, al- though the town of Kinneil has wholly disappeared. In 1755, Um popuktion of the ptriih was 2868 1705, town, 2618 ; country, 565 8178 1801, eicluriTe of 214 Msmen, 2700 1811, do. 184 do. . 2768 1821, do. 158 do. 8018 1881, . S809 1841, 2847 The town of Bo*ness, notwithstanding its unpromising eztemal appearance, is remarkable for the healthiness and longevity of tha inhabitants. By a table, constructed with much care fVom tho register of deaths for a period of twenty- five years immediately preceding 1834, it appears that the number of deaths was 1842; that during that time, 167 persons died between 60 and 70 yean of age ; 227, between 70 and 80; 119, between 80 and 90; and ] 1, upwards of 90. * The following notices refer to the commociont in 1745^ Instruetioiit snd rants were lent^on difierent oooaiioni, through the Custom- Home here^ to the Bbm» riff of Linlithgow, the Msgistmtes of South Queentferry, and " the biiillie of tld» town," regarding suspected persons and ships. The Cuttom- House waf robbed by the rebels, who carried off a number of braad- sword blades, cutlasses, Ac. which formed part of a shipment tram Germany, mad* by aa armourer in GUsgow, on a Treasury warrant. A troop of dragoons, brought to protect Kinneil House, accidentally set fln U> some of the seats which remained in the old church of KinneiL KinneQ Hoan had, on former occasions, been exposed to violence. In December 165^ durinc popuUr commotions, it was pilkgea. and in Februsrv followins it was burned; ana .again it was burned, in 1570, by some of the English army who had invaded Seol- huid. BORROWSTOWNNES8. 135 The inhabitants of Bo'ness are in general shrewd, intelligent, and enterprizing ; and, as many of them are early trained to the sea, natives of the parish may be found in the most distant parts of the world. The farmers on the barony of Kinneil are a most respectable and exemplary part of the community. The general character of the colliers has improved much of late years. IV. — Industry. The Duke of Hamilton is proprietor and superior of the whole parish, with the exception of a farm of 169 imperial acres, morti- fied for behoof of the minister. Agriculture, — Excepting the natural wood near Kinneil House, the wooded banks of the Avon, and various strips of planting in« tersecting the parish for ornament or shelter, the whole surface is arable. The average rental may be stated as follows : 4d0 acres of carse land, at L.S, Ss. per acre, L.1S54 10 22d0acresofdry field, at L.1, 166. do. . . 4014 270 acres under plantation at 12s. do. 162 ^ Total 1^.5590 10 The whole valuation of the parish stands in the cess-books of the county at L.3559, 8s. Scots. The carse land is of excellent quality. The dry-field consists of various kinds of soil. The greatest part is thin, lies on a tilly bed, and requires extensive draining, which has been, and still is, carried on to a considerable extent on modern principles, and with beneficial results. The rotation of crops for carse land is that called the six-shift course; Istj oats; 2d, summer-fallow; Qdy wheat; 4^A, beans; 5thj barley ; and, 6M, clover-grass, which is cut for hay. The rotation for dry-field is the same, where the land is stifi*, and on a retentive bottom ; but where the land is free, and not retentive of moisture, a green drilled crop is substituted for summer fallow. In this case, the ground remains in pasture a year or two after the removal of the hay crop. Leases, Sfc. — Although a few are for a shorter period, the leases are usually for nineteen years, by which means the farmer is en- couraged to employ his capital in the improvement of his farm, and bis industry is stimulated. The farms are generally let upon com rents, convertible according to the fiars prices of the county for the crop and year for which the rents are payable. By this mode of adjusting the rents, agricultural distress may be said to be unknown in the parish. 136 LINLITHGOW8U1RB. Coal. — The outcropping of some of the seams of coal la Ab neighbourhood must have attracted notice to tbw mineral at aH early period. About the middle of the fifteenth oentnrjf B epa Pius II. expressed his astonishment at ** black stones* being gttett in alms to the poor of Scotland. Even as early as \9Bif a ehai^ ter was granted in favour of the Abbots of Danfermline^ S^^'i'V the right of digging coals in the neighbourhood of the ooovieiil* The seams of coal in this neighbourhood are, generally speaHiiHi. of good thickness, and excellent quality ; and most of them appear to have been wrought at a very early period, in different plafleSi and frequently to a great extent. When the salt-works (eoasbt ing of sixteen pans, producing about 87,000 bushels annually,) were in full operation, the average quantity of coal raised in twelve months might be about 44,000 tons. For nearly forty years paaty however, no pit has been in operation in this parish, the coals be» ing raised in the neighbouring parish of Carriden. But lately, ow- ing to a serious irruption of water, the works there were interrupted^ when an old pit was re-opened in Be^ness, and was wrought for a short period. At the hill, the great coal was then sold at lOs. per ton, and the chews at 6s. per ton. The great coal was shipped at 9s. per ton, and the dtewi at 7s. per ton. The neighbourhood of the Snab has been proposed as the mosf favourable situation for a new winning of the coal-field. The ea* tablishment of a colliery at this place is expected to be of eonsi* derable advantage to the town. Ironstone was formerly wrought to a considerable extent, but b wrought only in small quantities at present, along with the coaL Quarries. — From the trap rock or whinstone quarries are ob* tained stones for building, and excellent metal for the readSi There are several freestone quarries in the parish, the best of which is at Craigenbuck. The stone which it yields is of exceW lent quality, and is much used for hearths and ovens. The limestone, which is more suitable for mortar than for ma« Bure, is not wrought at present. Fisheries. — The inhabitants of this place turned their atteatioi^ to whale-fishing about sixty years ago. At one time eight whale* ships belonged to Bo^ess. But this branch of industry, though attempted at different periods, has not been prosperous, and only one vessel is employed in it at present. There are two boiling* houses for preparing the whale-oil ; one of which has been repaired lately, and made very complete in its arrangements^ BORROWSTOWNNESS. 1 37 Herrings seldom appear here in great quantities. In 1794-5, there was a very successful fishing, but there has been none here since. The establishment of a salmon-fishery at the mouth of the Avon has been proposed, but not yet carried into effect. Haddock, cod, and skate, are found in the Frith ; but little at- tention is paid to fishing, owing, probably, to the want of bait. Small quantities of trout and flounders are occasionally taken with hand-nets, in the stream of the Avon. Manufactures* — Tambouring was formerly a very profitable em- ployment to a great number of females in this place. This branch bf industry now affords but a small remuneration, although a con- siderable number is still employed in it. The Bo'ness Pottery commenced on a small scale in the year 1784, and has been carried on by various individuals since that time. The present proprietors have greatly enlarged their pre- mises, and extended their works. They manufacture almost every variety of stone and earthen-ware. - The Bo'ness Foundery is generally well employed. The che- mical has lately been much enlarged. At the east end of the town there is an extensive bonded wood- yard, and an open woody ard on the Links. Connected with them, and driven by steam, is a saw-mill, containing both circular and vertical saws, and a very ingenious and efficient planing machine. The same steam-engine moves machinery for preparing bone manure. There is a rope-work on a small scale on the Links. The Bo'ness distillery, at the west end of the town, is an exten- sive establishment ; but the present proprietor is working it on a limited scale, producing only spirit of superior quality. The re- venue paid to Government, including malt duty, is sometimes con- siderably above L. 300 per week. The farmers obtain a largo supply of excellent manure from the distillery, as there is connect- ed with it extensive accommodation for feeding cattle. Besides the grain malted and used at the distillery, a conside* rable quantity is malted elsewhere, and sent out of the parish. At this port there is an extensive grain trade, foreign and Bri- tish. The grain merchants have accommodation for warehousing 15000 quarters. Almost all the granaries have been used a» bonded warehouses. Shipping. — In the course of the 17th century, JBo'ness became 138 LINLlTHGOWgHIEK. the great emporium of oammerce with Holland mi tba Biltie. Probably it profited much by the declantioo of Farliunent in ItTflV that burghs of regality and barony were entitled to the nmelia*- dom of trade as royal burffhs. The strict rq^latiou of the E^ glish customs laws, introdnced at the Union, proTingagnat v^ straint upon the tradd of Scotland, the Scottish merehaoti tonad their atteution to the English colonies, then opened to themi and a great trade in tobacco, and other colonial produce arote, by wUeh the merchants of this place acquired much wealth. Between 17SQ and 1 780, Bo'oess was one of the most thriving towns on thiriMif coast, and ranked as the third port in ScoUand. But unoe the opening of the Forth and Clyde Canal, and especially rinoe tba erection of Grangemouth into a separate port, the commerce of this place has decreased, and at present it is in a Tery languiihing condition. Table of Registered vessels belonging to the Port of Borrowa- townness, (including all the creeks,) and of the amount of duttea received at different periods. Year,. Total. 3" Tr«le. ruhery. t 1 i i i. i t' i 1 eg (2 ^ ^ Si i2 1760, 55 "SMJ 11 lilt 42 1910 1770. 117 65381 a 2000 68^135 4 451 1780, 140 em ■24 2710 116 625fl 1790, I7S 13888 43 4S85 133 paSJiaj 719 111 ^laio, IBOO, 134 6745 2! 2330 Dutin ItcceiTud. Invird. KivirehDiw Outwsr A. CoBilwisc loul t^tlo e«i.y<>«. £ ,. i. £ .. d. £ .. i £ : d. £ .. d. 1805,- 172 UIW 163IS 3 4 1810,' 154 905 30485 17 01 1SI5, 134 7837 983} 6 S 1820, 129 81t)G 1818 11 9| 1625, 9 570! 5316 IS IM 1880, ]-23\ 8916 668 17 352 3 6 S7^ S e 73 l« 5 4846 18 r I83S,t 12J, 845S (420 16 * 2057 13 8 311 I e 3797 11 6 1839, lOr 653 1425 1 S 3>!'0 13 ^ 208 9 5 4924 3 7 * Thariiipauddutlciof leOfiud ISIO Indudt iboM of Gnuigemouth. AttlA period tbB Inward tnda coiuiMsd ebiefljr of timber, dob, iron, flu, blubbar, gnfai, bark, madder ; and the'ontward trade, of grain, iilt, ooali, earthan-wan. llw oo*- ward aod inward trad* ii limtlar at the preaent time. Tbe flax ii Impoitad into tba omki on the north nde, and oonmed to DuntniUiic. t Dutiea on ooaU were radused in 18S4. ^ or tbcae, 14 ibJFa, nuanuiDg 1783 tool, belonged to Bo'n««, and Um KM to tbw fiORROWSTOWNNESS. 139 V. — Parochial Economy. It appears from the recollection of Sir R. Drummond of Meid- hope, referred to by Sir R« Sibbald, that, about the year 1600, there was but (me house where Bo'ness and the other villages east- ward to Carriden now stand. And about the year 1700, accord- ing to Sir R. Sibbald's own observation, *^ from the Palace of Kinneil, for some two miles eastward, are almost continued build- ings upon the coast ; and above it, upon the sloping ground from the hills of Irongatb, there are several seats of the gentry, and several villages well peopled, because of the frequent coal-pits all over the ground." To this period, therefore, we may refer the ori- gin of Bo'ness and the neighbouring villages. And the great and rapid change which took place between 1600 and 1700, may bo ascribed to the extensive trade with the low countries, which sprung up during that interval. The merchandise brought from Holland, Bremen, Hamburgh, Konigsberg, and Dantzic, was land- ed on the south shores of the Frith, and conveyed to Linlithgow, Stirling, Glasgow, and all the west country. Blackness was the only place on the south side of the Frith where ships could lie safely ; but causeways or gravelled roads are said to have been made on the beech, by which carts might be brought alongside of vessels at low water, for the purpose of landing or shipping goods^ The Ness, on which the town now stands, presented a situation favourable for such operations ; and, most probably, the compact piece of causeway, which was discovered about twenty years ago, at the depth of several feet below the sill of the dock-gate, was part of the original landing-place at the Ness. The abundance of coal in the neighbourhood, as well as the local convenience of the Ness, probably attracted shipping to it at an early period ; and the prosperous trade, which commenced in the beginning of the seventeenth century, induced many rich mer- chants, ship-owners, and others, to acquire property,* or to reside here ; so that the town and population rapidly increased. .Tavm. — The town of Bo'ness is situated in the north-east cgr- nerof the parish, close to the harbour, [and nearly on a level with the sea. It is uncertain when it was erected into a burgh of re- creeks of Limekilns and Inverkeithing. In 1794, 25 ships belonged to the town ; whereof 17 were brigantines, 1] of them engaged in the Baltic trade, and 6 under contract to sail regularly once every 14 days, to and from London. • Sir John Hamilton of Grange, and Sir John Hamilton of Beircrofls, had sa- noes of various houses and tenements in Bo'ness, from the Marquis of Hamilton, in leSaO and 1623. ■.'.^g 140 LIIILITHGOWSHIRE. gality ; but it was made a buif[b of bmrony when the Juriidictioa Act was repealed : and il is governed bj a bailie appoinl a d'hy the Duke of Hamilton. Bo'ness is a post-towDi haTiog two mrrivdi and two departures of the mail daily. A weekly market it held Ml Monday. There is an annual fair in July» which is obeervedoov chiefly by the colliers and carters, who then Aoose the oBe»^ bearers of their friendly soetetiesi and ride in procesnoiit gayly decorated with ribbons, feathers, and flags. Harbour. — The harbour is formed by two piers carried out inltr the Frith. The western pier, which was first erected, has ha ex- tremity bent towards the east The eastern pier extends ai bra» the other; so that the harbour is completely protected (torn storms, and is one of the safest and most accessible in the Frith. A double wall, forming a broad road, has been run across the faar* hour, between the two piers, so as to form a basin on the land aid* of the harbour. This basin is allowed to fill with the flowing tide^ and at low water it is emptied by opening four sluices, thnn^ which the water flows with a rapid current, so as to clean and deepen the harbour with very little trouble or expense. A small jetty has been run out from the middle of this wall^ and parallel with the piers, which increases the accommodation of the harbour; &nd at the west end of the wall is a gateway, (the gate or lock has lately been removed,) through which vessels are admitted to a patent slip, which has been laid down at the west side of the ba- sin. The breadth of the harbour, or the length of the basin wall and dock-gate between the two piers, is 240 feet ; the length of the west pier from this wall is 668 feet A part of the east pier, 886 feet long, was built in 1733 ; and an addition, 180 feet long, was made in 1787. The depth of water in the harEniur at spring tides may be from 16 to 18, or even 20 feet The improvements of the harbour have been effected chiefly by an impost on ale and beer, and on anchorage duty le» vied by an Act of Parliament, which has been repeatedly renew* ed. By the last act, (of 1816, for twenty>five years,) an assess- ment of Is. per pound is levied on all buildings within town, along with the old impost of 2d. Scots on the pint of ale or beer, and an anchorage duty of 2^d. on coasters, and 3^d. on foreign vessels. The impost, duty, and assessment of the town and harbour are under the management of fifteen trustees, elected from the mer- chants and shipmasten). BORROWSTOWNNESS. 141 It is a remarkable circumstance, that no shore dues or wharfage on goods are levied at this harbour ; and it is much to be regret- ted, that, during the last lease of the colliery, almost all the coals from the Duke of Hamilton's property were shipped, not at Bo'- ness, but at Bridgeness in Carriden. These circumstances have proved exceedingly disadvantageous to the funds of the town. But it is hoped, when the Act of Parliament, and the lease of the coal- works, shall be renewed, these serious disadvantages will be avoided. Owing to the deficiency of funds, the trustees have not only been prevented from undertaking various desirable improvements in the town and harbour, but have also incurred a heavy debt, as will appear from the following statement : Aopual revenue ; average for ten years. Eipenditure for Bame period. Anchorage duty, and harbour Interest of borronred money, L. 80 12 3 dues, . L.lll 12 10 Repairs of harbour, wages, &c. 161 17 Impost on ale, . Id 17 Assessment collected, 46 17 6 Sale of manure, . 96 10 bhareofsHp, . 7 9 2 L.216 6 6 242 9 3 The debt due by the trustees in the year )823 was L.1769. At one period the debt was above L.2000. At present, however, it is less. The petty customs are the property of the Duke of Hamilton, the superior. Port and Cuatom^Houses. — Before the Union, the magistrates of royal burghs collected the greater customs belonging to the Crown, as well as the petty customs belonging to the burghs, and they accounted for the former ^o the Exchequer ; but at, and probably for some time before, the Union, the greater customs were taken out of the hands of magistrates, and let to tacksmen, or farmers of the revenue, as appears from the minutes of the Commissioners of the Union. The King^s duties were collected at Blackness, for the goods imported in this district. By the treaty of Union, the English customs laws were extended to Scot- land, and custom-houses were then established at the principal ports. The influence of the Hamilton family procured the Cus- tom- House to be established at their own town of Bo'ness, instead of Blackness, and the 6rst ledger of the '^ Port of Borrowstoun Ness" commences on 26th December 1707. The district of this port embraced both sides of the Frith of Forth, from Dumbrissle Point and Cramond Water, upwards to the boundaries of Alloa. 1 42 LINLITHGOW8HIRB. On 1st December 1810, Graogemouth, previoittly a cnMk ^f port, was erected into a separate port. *» The establishment of the port consists, at present, of one oal^ lector, one comptroller, and one tide-waiter at Bo^nesB^ and other individuals at the creeks^ && conneoted with the nient. In 1795, the establisbmeot consisted of tonif-kmr k duals. * Ecclesiastical State. — According to the ^ Tasationet rum," quoted by Sibbald, Kinneil was in the diocese of St Aa« drews, and deanery of Linlithgow, about the year 117d, and waa rated at twenty-&?e merks. It had been given to the eaiKma of Holyrood in the twelfth or thirteenth century, and was confi r maJ to them by the Bishop of St Andrews in 1240. The canons en- joyed the revenues, and the cure was served by a vicar. In 1688^ the parish of Kinneil was in the diocese of Edinbuif[h. f The ruins of the old parish church, and the burying^ground of Kinneil, are still to be seen a little west from Kinneil Hoose. % No records remain ; but the inhabitants of the barony still observe some old customs connected with the ancient parish ; and there are a few relics which they hold in veneration, and preserve with great care. The communion table linen, and part of the com* munion table, and some other articles, are in the possession of Mr William Thomson, farmer. Upper Kinneil. About the year 1634, the inhabitants of Bo'ness, induced by the increasing prosperity and importance of the place, and consid* ering the parish church at Kinneil at an inconvenient distance from the town, built a place of worship for themselves. The minister of the parish, to accommodate the inhabitants of the tpwbi preached in this place of worship, as well as in the parish church of Kinneil, till the year 1649, when a petition was presented to the Parliament of Scotland for a disjunction from Kinneil, and n separate minister. Parliament granted the prayer of the petition^ and, after several visitations, the presbytery of Linlithgow found * Much information, ecpeeially regarding the port» has been communicated bf John Mackiolay, £m. Collector of Customs, Bo'ness. t Sir David de Hamilton, Lord of Cadaow, mortiied to the see of Gk^gmr, *^ pro salute aniras sus*** an annuity of ten merks Sterling yearly out of bis hmaj of Kynnele, anno 1861. In 1512» John Stirling granted L.10 Sterling yeariy ftmil his lands of Easter Crackey, to a ^iqplain Ibr peHbcming dlTine senrice at one of tb« altars of KinneU Church. X The inhabitants of the barony have ceased to inter at Kinoeil, as burying-gromid has been prorided near the Bo'ness churchyard. In the latter are sereral eipen* sively sculptured monuments, some of which were erected by ikmilies now wtiaet, whose names have been obliterated to gite place to others. 4 BORROWSTOW NNESS, 1 43 it necessary, that Bo'ness should be erected into a parish by itself, bounded on the south, by Graham's Dike ; on the north, by the sea ; on the east, by Thirlestone ; and on the west, by the castle wall, commonly called " Capie's Wall." Some objection appears to have been made to the measure, as it was effected whilst James, Duke of Hamilton, the sole proprietor of the lands and teinds of the parish, was detained in England. However, in December 1669, William and Anne, Duke and Duchess of Hamilton, ob- tained an Act of the Scots Parliament, declaring the church built within the town to be *^ the kirk of the hail barony of Kinneil and Bo'ness.^' From that period, the parishes have been united, and considered as one. The following have been the ministers of Bo'ness after Mr M. Potter : Mr John Brand, ordained 3d January 1694; Mr William Brand, ordained 1739 ; Mr Patrick Baillie, ordained 14th May 1747; Mr John Morton, ordained 10th May 1792 ; Dr Robert Rennie, ordained 9th April 1795 ; present incumbent, admitted i3tb February 1834. The parish church of Bo'ness, at the period of the disjunction from Kinneil, was a long narrow building, with round-topped win- dows. Having become the church of the united parishes, an act of Parliament was obtained for repairing it, in the year 1672, and the Duke of Hamilton added a large aisle for himself and his ten- ants. In 1775, according to an agreement between the Duke's commissioners and the town, the aisle was taken down, and the church nearly rebuilt, of an oblong 6gure, 69 feet by 48, within the Walls. In 1820, the south wall, and part of the east wall were rebuilt, and the galleries were reconstructed and made uniform ; so that the church is now a plain, neat, substantial building, and in good repair.* The church is seated for the accommodation of 950, but might accommodate 100 more, if the vacant spaces in the galleries were seated. The Duke of Hamilton has 30 pews, containing 169 seats, oc- cupied by his tenants, and by the colliers connected with his works. The representatives, who manage the church-funds, let * Sereral curious memorials uf the frequent intercourse betveen Holland and Bo'ness still remain, 'llie pulpit was brought from Holland, and is a curious speci- men of ancient art and taste ; and the oldest pulpit Bible is an Amsterdam edition of the Geneva Bible, reprinted from an Edinburgh edition of 1610, having several of th« usual maps and figurative illustrations. The New Tesument is an English tranalationi by L. Tomson, of Beza*s version. The volume is clasped and ornamented widi if .' 144 UNL1THOOW8H1RB. 1 pews, containing 88 seats ; and 45 pews, containing S7V are private property, but pay an annual feu into the drnrcih From L.20 to L.aO per annum are realized from theae There are 46 pews, containing 274 seats, which pay no faoi the free property of prirate individuals ; and 14 pews, ebot 99 seats, are the property of diflTerent societies. Many of the'i belonging to the societies, and of those which are the proper^ of private individuals, are let, at the will of the proprietors, at varying from Is. to 4s. per annum. There are fourteen free before the pulpit The church, being in the town, is situated near the eastern tremity of the parish ; yet the farmers, even in the most dii parts of the parish, are remarkably regular in their attendanoe at church. The manse was built about thirty years ago, and, though not well planned or neatly finished, is a good houses and in tolerable repair. The glebe consists of about six acres of excellent land, about L.20 yearly value ; and the grass glebe is let at L.4 per annum. When the parishes of Kinneil and Bo'ness were united in lOSfliy ' the act of Parliament appointed the old stipend of Kinneil to bo- ^ added to the stipend given by the town, and the whole to be the constant stipend of the minister serving the cure of the united pa* rishes. According to the act of erection in 1649, the stipend of Bo'ness was 800 merks, with a glebe, and the rent of the minis* tor's house. A stock of 10,000 merks was invested in land, and the annual rent of this mortification was designed for the stipend, but not amounting to 800 merks, the Act of Parliament appointed the inhabitants of the town to be stented 200 merks, (L.1 1, Ss. 8fd«)i and representatives were to be chosen annually to fix and levy the assessment. The farm of Muirhouse, in which the stock was in- vested, is about two miles south from the town, and consists of 169 acres. As it was not very productive at first, the assessment was frequently levied during the first century after the disjunction of Bo'ness from Kinneil, but this has long since become unneces-> sary, as the farm has been greatly improved, and its value and yearly produce have been much increased. The rent of this farm, together with a bond of L.6, 18s. lid. by Duchess Anne Hamilton, and the seat-rents formerly mention- ed, constitute the funds of the church of Bo'ness. These funds are chargeable with five-sixths of the expense of all repairs of the 8 BOBROWSTOWNNESS. 145 church and churchyard ^all, the Duke of Hamilton being charge- able with one^sizth. After deducting the expense of repairs oa the church, and of the management of the funds, the free surplus is payable to the minister. This destination of the surplus funds was determined by a decision of the House of Lords in the year 1806. The church-funds are under the management of the re- presentatives, who are chosen annually on the first Wednesday of January by the heritors, portioners, householders, and heads of fami- lies in the town, in conjunction with the minister and kirk-session. The management of the church funds, in which the Dissenters take a part, is conducted in a manner most creditable to the com- munity, without regard to party views or private interest. The average sum of surplus paid to the minister is about L.iS5 per annum. The stipend payable as from the parish of Kinneil is six chal- ders victual, the greatest part oats and barley ; L.5 are allowed for communion elements ; and cocils are furnished to the minister by the family of Hamilton, conform to use and wont. The sacrament of the Supper is dispensed in the parish church twice in the year. Number on the general roll of communicants, 644; number of male heads of families, communicants, 182; ave- rage number of actual communicants, 450. There is but one Dissenting congregation in the parish, which ift connected with the United Secession Church. Their place of worship will accommodate about 400, and is well attended. QnUributions for Religions and Charitable Purposes. — The peo- ple of this parish are very liberal in their contributions for religious and charitable purposes. Last year the sum of L.24, 12s. was raised by a parochial association in aid of the General Assembly's schemes. There is also a Bible and Education Society, in the support and management of which Churchmen and Dissenters unite. By the annual contributions to this society, about 35 poor children re- <;eive aplain education ; and the Scriptures, the Shorter Catechism, and school-books are supplied to the poor gratuitously, or at re- duced prices. There is an Association of Ladies for the purpose of supplying the poor with clothes, meal, and coals in winter. The farmers ge- nerously aid this work of benevolence by carting the coals gratui- tously. The contributions obtained by the ladies, and the value of the services of the farmers, may amount in some years to L.30. LINLITHGOW. Y. 146 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. A small sum is occasionally collected for defraying Ili6 of the Sabbath schools under the superintendenc6 of the pitfall session. Besides the sums already mentioned^ whieb may teeoM* sidered as regular contributions, sums are occasionally coUaetad il the parish, church to the e&tent of L.8^ LelO, or L.15K, for rtlfgimil and charitable purposes. Friendly Societies^ 4rc— -The following is a statesient of tb# nmi of money paid at Bo'ness from Trinity. Housot LondoiH and hf various institutions in Bo'nessi in the year 1834 : Date of RMtivin^ Name of institution. ii ' ' Trinity House, Sailor's society, • Landman's Society, . Friendly Society of Shipmasters, Beneficent Society, . • Shipmaster's Society, itution. • • • •• • k aid. 19 L.70 *0 1684 15 4 85 1659 10 8 9 1767 18 4 96 1781 50 40 46 6 ••• 20 • 9 • 18 10 L.190 4 ) L.181 9 4 • . 58 14 8 Paid to residenters in the pariah, non-residentq^s, • L.190 4 There is a Provident Union Society, which divides its fundi yearly. In 1834, there were 422 members, the payments in the course of the year amounting to L.59, 5s. Poor and Parochial Funds* — The inhabitants of the barony still observe some customs of their forefathers, which have a referenoo to the old parish of KinneiL This appears particularly in thd management of their poor, which is quite distinct from that of Bo^» ness. The inhabitants of the barony put their church*door coki lections for the poor into the old ladle of Kinneil church, whilat the inhabitants of the town put theirs into a diflferent receptado. After the poor belonging to Kinneil are supplied, the remainder of the funds that can be spared is distributed to the poor of the town. The following statement of the expenditure and receipts of th# * poor's funds of the barony and of the town respectivelyi is the average of three years, 1885, 1836, and 1837 : Expenditure. Annual average of On penna- Ocea* each on per- Total «• nentrolL sional. manentroll. penditurt. Kinneil, .8 91 L.1 14 7 L.22 16 8 Bo'ness, .76 50 285 22501 Hijgfaest rate in Bo*ness for one mdlTidual or fiunily, « • . 6 10 O BORROWSTOWNNESS. 147 Receipts. Kinneil. Bo'nen^ CoUecdoDs at church doors, . . L.16 17 9 L.45 2 6 Rent of landed property, . . . 92 8 Interest of bond, l^zacy, mortcloth dues, proclamations, 12 7 5 37 18 7 Average annual denciency paid by the Duke of Hamilton, 109 II L.29 5 2 L.225 1 The Kinneil funds, which are occasionally augoranted by vo- luntary contributions from a Hearse Society connected with the barony, are always more than sufficient for supplying the poor in the barony. Indeed, the greatest part of the Kinneil fiinds is given to the poor of the town in occasional relief; and this ac- counts for the great number of occasional poor in the Kinneil list The large deficiency in the Bo'ness funds is made up by the Duke of Hamilton. Education. — For several years past there have been about ten schools in the parish. There is but one parochial school, which is very ably conducted by Mr John Stephens, who has been pa- rochial schoolmaster here upwards of forty y^ars. He has the maximum salary, L.34, 4s. 4^\d« His house, which was the first in this Presbytery built under the act 1803, contains more than the legal accommodations ; but the garden ground is rather defi- cient in size, for which he receives an equivalent in money. The schoolmaster is also session -clerk, the fees of which office are about L.14 per annum. The average of school- fees is at present under L.40 per annum. The average of scholars, for upwards of thirty years, was considerably above 100; these last three years it has scarcely exceeded the half of that number. There is a school at Upper Kinneil, supported by the tenantry, for the convenience of children in the barony. That the school- fees may be moderate, the Duke of Hamilton allows the teacher a small salary. The Dissenters, for three or four years past, have supported a school, which is numerously attended. This and the other schools in the town are not endowed, and most of them are taught by fe» males. JAbrary. — A subscription library has existed in the parish above thirty years. It contains about 1250 volumes, many of them va« luable works. Miscellaneous Observations. A great part of Kinneil Carse has evidently been reclaimed from the Frith, and, being under high-water-mark, is \jte«ftXH<^ from its encroachments by strong em\>atALm^vi\^ \\.\'&>\\ji«K^Naixa^ .^;^ 143 L1NLITHQ0W8HIRR. ' . . when or by whom these embftokmeDts were made ; probftUy A&f were effected by James, 6r8t Lord Hamilton.* Between Bo'ness harbour and the mouth of the Aym* 1000 acres of a muddy surface are exposed at low water. if reclaimed from the sea for agricultural purposes, would bea«i» luable addition to the Carse of KinneiL This part of the Fkhh is becoming shallower, owing to the accumulation of mild WeCgfaft down by the Avon and Carron, and especially bj the Portbi Md the beach is assuming more of a fluviatie character. Sir Aoberl Sibbald says, «< These shallows have the name of the Lady's Soanpn^ The Dutch did offer some time ago to make all that scaup good arable ground and meadow, and to make harbours and towns (heiw 10 convenient places, upon certain conditions, which were BOi ie- cepted." It has been the general opinion that the eastern tenninalkA rf the Forth and Clyde Canal should have been at Bo'ness, as this town and harbour possess important advantages which can Bover be obtained at the mouth of Grangeburn. The merchants and inhabitants of Bo ness, perceiving that this canal (commenced in 1 768) would put an end to their trade with Glasgow, hitherto carried on by means of pack-horses and carriers' carts, in order to retain at least a share of it, proposed to make a branch from the great canal to the harbour of Bo'ness. Two Acts of Fkrliament, and subscriptions to the amount of L.1 0,000 were obtained; the canal was cut from the river Avon eastward, within a mile of the town, and an aqueduct across the Avon was nearly completed | but, after an outlay of about L. 7500, the work was abando a eda when not half- finished. The circumstances which prevented the accomplishment of this desirable undertaking need not be stated.} but they were, and still are, deeply regretted by the inhabitants of thb town, especially on seeing their trade turned into another chaii* neL Much of it passed by the canal direct to Glasgow, and the larger vessels discharged at Grangemouth, which was only a creek of this port, but then became its rival, and was eventually ereefed into a separate port. * About the year 1470, a charter, under the great aeal^ jrai granted, <*JaSobo Domino de HamyHoo, de lerria infra mare Incrandih venui terraa da Kimislt d Bunrarditoun." f Formerly there wat an abundant luppW of excellent shell Ssh near this nlies* In 180^ the Newhaven fiaheroien came hither in a large fleet of boata, and aiinoat beloiMtlag Mtdif not in restoring the eealp, aa the greateat part of the rauaelei waa eaat into dMp water, and thoae which were replaceadid not thrhre. BATUGATli:. 149 When this place was much frequented by shipping, ship-build- ing, for which the beach and the patent slip afforded great conve- nience, was carried on to a considerable extent. The names of Hart and of Boag were well known, even in Greenock. Very few vessels are built here now ; but the patent slip has been frequently employed of late. As shipping and commerce now find more direct and easy ac- cess to various parts of the country than formerly, there seems to be but little prospect of any great return of trade to this place, except by the establishment of manufactures ; and few places pos- sess greater advantages for this purpose. A harbour, the safest and most accessible in the Frith, — a ready communication with all parts of the country by land and water,— an abundant supply of coal, — and a large population, having at present but irregular, or inadequate employment, — present unusual advantages for the investment of capital in manufactures. Jpril 1843. PARISH OF BATHGATE. PREBBVTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEEDDALE. THR REV. SAMUEL MARTIN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History, Name. — In a grant by Malcolm IV. to the monks of Holyrood, this parish is named Batket. In other charters and deeds of the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries, the name is written Bathket, Batket, Bathcat, and Bathkat The etymology the writer is unable to explain. The modern name is a manifest cor- niption of the original appellation. Extent^ Boundaries^ and Figure, — The greatest length of this parish, which is in a line running nearly from west-south-west to east-north-east, is 7^ miles ; its greatest breadth at right angles to its length, is 4 miles. It contains 17.53 square miles: 8921.72 Scotch, or 11214.6 imperial acres.* * Anj one who takes the trouble to compute tbero, will find that these statements are not eiactly, though very nearly* equivalent. Tliey are taken from Forrest's large map of Linlithgowshire, and the writer believes them all to be beyond the truth. 150 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. The Ggure of this parish is ncarty tliat of a parallelogram^ of 5§ miles by rather less than 0^, with a projecting branch running a mile more to the west, a similar one, extending about two-thirds of a mile to the east, and a larger protuberance on the north. It is bounded on the north, by Torphichen, and a small portion of Linlithgow ; on the east, by Ecclesmachan and Liyingston ; on the south, by Livingston and Whitburn ; and on the west, by Shotts and Torphichen. , Hills and general aspect of the Paris/u — The centre of Linlitb* gowshire is composed of a somewhat elevated plateau, surrounded on all sides by hills of considerable height. The south-west cor- ner of this bounding range, which has no general name,. forms the north-eastern portion of the parish of Bathgate, covering nearly one-seventh of its whole extent. Close upon the boundary be- tween Biithgatc and Torphichen, the range attains its highest ele^ vation in the hill of Cairnapple, or Cairnpapple, which is said, ia various maps, to be 1499 feet above the level of the sea. This, it is apprehended, is considerably beyond the truth. There are two eminences within the boundary of Bathgate, one named the Knock, and the other Reiving Craig, which are not more than from 20 to 30 feet lower than Cairnapple. The western, and to some extent, the southern slope of the hilly mass is rather steep^ but contains in it the best land in the parish. The tract at its foot is the lowest ground in the parish, is naturally marshy, and appears once to have been, to a considerable extent, covered with water. The surface water is now removed, and the wetness of the soil somewhat corrected by draining. Beyond this, the rest of the parish, both south and west, is very level, though having on the whole a gentle and continuous rise towards the boundary line in these directions. On the southern half of the west boundary, however, the ground again sinks into a deep moss, which extends between this parish and that of Shotts. Our climate is rather moist, and vegetation is about a fort- night later here than it is nine or ten miles to the east. LakeSf 8fc» — The only lake is a small one of about eleven acres in extent in the park of Balbardie. It is partly artificial, and has an average depth of five feet, though in one place upwards of twelve. It forms a very pretty object in that beautiful and well- wooded park. There is no stream of importance connected in any way with this parish, except the Amond, which forms the boundary for little more than a mile between Bathgate and Whit- BATHGATE. IW buro. Springs abound in ibis parish. The water from them is in many places tinged with iron. One, on the estate of Couston, seems to resemble very much in quality the celebrated Dollar water. Geology and Mineralogy* — The dip of the strata is universally to the west and north-west* The inclination is exceedingly vari- 0US9 ranging from 5^ to as much as 45^. The latter is found, however, only where some violent disruption of the strata has taken place. Almost the whole of this parish forms part of the great central coal field of Scotland. In regard to every part of it except the east and south-east, it has been ascertained from working sand from recent borings, that coal is to be found, and generally in workable seams. Whinstone dikes are of frequent occurrence, deranging the seams and oft spoiling the coal. There are also frequent dislocations of the strata, elevating or depressing the beds, sometimes as much as several fathoms, without any intervening dike at all. Above the coal, and so far as has been ascertained, beneath it too, beds of freestone occur. The crowning points of the hilly part of the parish are all formed of secondary trap rocks, such as basalt and whin or greenstone. These give place on the western ridge and slope to coal, as already mentioned, and to thick beds of sandstone, and mountain limestone. These beds are oc« casionally intersected by a bed of trap, taking sometimes the form of basalt, and amygdaloid, and are all rich in orjganic remains. In the coarse sandstone, and among the intervening beds of shale le* pidodendra have been found, and grasses in the finer grained sand- stone. The limestone is supposed by some geologists to be of two distinct formations, the one a marine, the other a lacustrine depo- sit. The workings in these supposed diflferent deposits are not half a mile asunder ; and if the strata are continuous, which has been ascertained only partially, they must lie within a hundred yards of each other. In the one, various species of corallines, am- monites, and other marine shells of every kind, the pecten^ nautilus^ mytiluSf anomiaj orthoceraSy &c abound. They often form, in fact, to a great extent, the mass of the stone. The principal stra- tum of this formation is about forty feet thick, including seams of flint of varying thickness. Many fissures occur in it, and the lower portion of it may be called cavernous, as it occasionally presents openings into which a man may enter to unknown depths. Vari- ous spars occur in the fissures, and stalactites in these openings. This ^^ limestone is associated with horostoue ; this mineral form- 152 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. ing in it numerous contemporaneous imbedded masses, coniaining in some places siliciGed madrepores/* (CunDingham's Geology of tho Lothians, 7th VoL Mem. Wern. Soc) The other, thm supposed lacustrine formation, has been described by Dr Hibbeit in the Appendix to his valuable memoir on the Burdiehouse Lime- stone. He states that its mineralogical character indicates that it was elaborated under a very powerful chemical action : and he specifies the separation of the miscellaneous earthy matters which compose it into thin laminae, some of them of remarkable teDuity, and their assumption of a striped {rubane^ as it is termed,) dispo- sition, — the blistered appearances, as if from heat, exhibited by the mixed ferruginous and carbonaceous layers which are found in the limestone — the singular wavings which the strata show, not only on the large scale, but even in hand specimens — and the botryoi- dal and mammillary structure, which other portions present, as all '* lending to the hypothesis, that the calcareous beds of Kirkton were elaborated under the action of great heat, or, in other words, that they had their origin in deep fissures, intimately connected with a volcanic focus." He remarks, indeed, that this is no more hypothetical matter. For, ** an interposed mass of volcanic tufa of a green colour, wliich occasionally assumes the compactness of greenstone, is developed among the higher beds of the deposit.** This limestone, with its accompaniments, Dr Hibbert pronounces ^^one of the most unique formations of which Great Britain can boast, indicative of thermal waters belonging to the carboniferous epoch." This limestone, says Mr Cunningham, ** contains the usual plants of the coal series, and also fossilized wood." Speci- mens also have been discovered of a crustaceous animal of very large dimensions. Dr Hibbert has identified them with the Emm rypterus of North America, described first by Dr Harlan, and re* ferred by him to the class Crustacea, and order Branchiopoda. The Kirkton specimens, however, are of a different species froon those found in North America, and are distinguished by their ex- traordinary size.* In the limestone beds, lead is found in small, and oflen interrupt* * In a note to his paper on the Geology of Uic Lothians, already quoted, Mr Cua* ningham says« ^^ to those who are inclined to consider the limestone of Kirkton aa of fresh- water origin from the sutements of Dr Hibbert in the 19th Vol. Trani. Roy. Soc. Ed. * that a decidedly fresh-water limestone is there ezposed* which is character^ iced by the absence of all marine shells, coral, &c.' we may mention, that the fact of its being so characteriaed is incorrcct» in aa much as we have found in it spadfiMiM of the productus.*' 8 BATHGATE. 153 ed veins, exhibiting also traces of silver. One linie-work retains the name of Silver mine from silver ore having for some time been v^rought in it After yielding a considerable quantity of silver, the veins became so small, that the produce would not repay the ex- pense, and the lime alone is wrought now. Traces of zinc (brown blend) are said to have been observed* Iron pyrites is frequently found, disseminated in its crystalline forms. Iron bands are ob- served in the Kirkton formation. In connection with the coal strata, iron ore is sometimes found. Formerly this ore was wrought on the estate of Couston, by the Carron Company, It was found in masses like rolled boulders, imbedded among clay, and was a very rich ore. Thin beds of mineral pitch are found in the limestone. Calcspor is, of course, plentiful ; heavy-spar, pearl-spar, and Ly* dian stone, are occasionally found, and, but more rare rarely, chal- cedony. In the hilly part of the parish, whinstone, greenstone, and basalt are the prevalent rocks ; in the level parts sandstone. The rocks, except on the hills where they frequently crop out, are covered with earth to the depth of 30 or 40 feet. The general subsoil is a wet tenacious clay. Beds and knolls of sand and gravel are, however, of frequent occurrence ; and the general sub- stratum of the south-east part of the parish is deep gravel On this, peat-moss is in some places superimposed. Peat abounds in the parish, and is sometimes of great depth. Fire-clay is also abundant. In all the mosses, trees — ^generally oaks, — are found im- bedded in considerable numbers. Mr Weir, Junior, of Boghead, is in possession of a fine specimen of the head and horns of the red-deer, which were found in a meadow on his property in 1836. The antlers measure respectively 3 feet 2 inches, and 3 feet 3 inches. There are four limeworks in this parish ; and a fifth (Kirkton) recently suspended, besides older workings. One of these works^ on the East Mains of Ballincriefi*, is wrought in the great stratum already mentioned, to the depth of about 25 feet, including a si- licious bed about 5 feet thick, which is not worth burning. The Hrrififf is here from 12 to 40 feet. The covering consists first of earth, then indurated slaty clay, or shale, freestone, and flint* The freestone is often wanting. Another work is carried on a little farther south, on the same property. It is in the same stra- tum, but more advantageously situated for working, being partly on the crop of the bed. The part of the stratum wrought is here somewhat thicker, and contains between 3 and 4 feet of matter not 1^4 LINLltHOOWSHIEB. fit for burning. Close by this work^ oo the property of die, a third one is situated ki the same stratum. Between tiiewii interposed a whinstone dike, the effect of which it terj It changes the dip from 10^ to 45®. The thickness of the able bed is here about 40 feet, with the same proportioo (8 to 4 feet) of waste. The tirring here is only about 15 feet, and tween the surface earth and the lime, nothing but a little loc stone is interposed. Dikes of very yarious thicknesses, it sboold be added, occur very frequently in this lime^ often within eTeiy luw* dred yards. The Silver mine work, opened originally in the pft* rish of Torphichen, has, in the course of time, e&tended into that of Bathgate. It has been wrought as a lime-work about 100 years. It lies higher in the hills, and is wrought in a diffsrsol stratum, or, at least, cut off from the other by a wide massof wUiii The bed of lime, which dips to the north-west at the rate of 1 in 8^ is about 55 feet thick. Of this 40 feet are wrought, the otlier 1ft feet being generally so much coarser as to be neglected. The tirring is from 60 to 70 feet, consbting chiefly of blaes, withOlbet of very hard freestone. Toads have been found in this liobe. The lime produced at all these works is good. Coal has been wrought long and extensively in this parish. On the western slope of the hills, and round the town are many oU workings, which have been abandoned for a considerable timew Of works at present open there is, 1. Barbauchlaw. The earth is here about 24 feet deep, succeeded by common freestone, a blaek hlaeSf (bituminous shale,) /at Aes, (thin beds of friable sandstooep intermingled with shale and clay), twenty inches of red sandsloae^ grey blaes, (common shale), very coarse ironstone, 18 inches of coal, fire-clay, grey blaes, 6 to 8 feet of freestone, fire-clay of m? liable thickness, averaging 3 feet, but sometimes wanting altoge^ ther, and then at the depth of 16^ fathoms the main cx>al, 4 feet thick. 2. In the Hardhill coaUwork, the first workable seam is found at the depth of 16 fathoms. There is nothing between it and the surface earth hut faikes. The coal seam presents first 9 feet 2 inches of coal, then 3 inches of clay, and then 10 inches more of coal. The next seam of coal presents 2 feet 10 inches of coal, 4 inches of blaes^ and 9 inches of coal. It lies 4 fethoms deeper than the first seam, and between them lies some ezcellebl and very white sandstone. From 4 to 6 fathoms deeper lies a par- rot coal, which is not yet wrought. The coal here dips to the norths west, at the rate of about 1 in 14. a In the Colinshiel coaUworl^ BATHGATE. 155 after 6 fathoms of earth, freestone appears, succeeded by a seam of coal 2 feet thick ; freestone very hard and white, lies between this and the coal now wrought, which is 3 feet 10 inches thick, and situated 12 fathoms from the surface. 11 fathoms deeper it has been ascertained that another seam occurs, 2 feet 4 inches thick. Four works have been recently given up. Zoology. — On the banks of Bathgate water, a small stream, which draining the lands east and south of the town, flows past it, and runs towards the north-west, till it joins the Barbauchlaw water, the otter was a few years ago rather abundant. Though its numbers have been very much thinned, it is still occasionally seen and killed there. In the Barbauchlaw water, which is an affluent of the Avon, trout are plentiful. Salmon come up it to spawn in the end of autumn, and return in spring. The following birds are found in the parish :* Grasshopper warbler (Salicaria locustella). Mr Weir found a nest of this rare bird in a thick furze bush on the top of Bathgate hills. ** This," he states, ** is, I believe, the only nest of this bird which has as yet been discovered in Scotland." Sis- kin or aberdevine (Carduelis spintis). In 1834, a nest of the sis- kin was discovered in this parish. As the representations of na- turalists respecting its habits differ, it may be important to state that the nest was on a spruce fir in the middle of a strong hawthorn hedge, and about 5^ feet from the ground. The birds fed on the ripe seeds of the dandelion. In winter small flocks of them are oc- casionally seen on Bathgate hills, feeding on the seeds of the knap- weed, Centaurea nigra. The kingfisher {Alcedo ispida) is a re- gular winter visitant of Bathgate water. In severe seasons, it often seeks its food almost under the wheel of a mill on the stream, although people are constantly passing and repassing. The night- •jar or fern-owl (Caprimulgus Europcms), — several of these curious birds breed here every year. White's minute and interesting ac- count of their habits agrees exactly with the observations made on them here. The crossbill (Loxia ^ttroj9^6r,Macgillivray,) has late- ly been seen in considerable numbers. Their food has been chiefly the seeds of the larch, which they obtain by separating the scales of the cones with their powerful bills. The European dipper (Cinclus aquaticusy) and the sandpiper {Totanus hypoleucos) build * This account of the birds is abridged from a communication furnished to the wri- ter by his friend, Mr Durham Weir, who has paid much attention to this department of natural history, and who lias procured within the parish specimens of nearly all the birds mentioned. f Montague states that this bird is extremely early in its singing. It is so alto in it» breeding. On April 25, 1834, its first brood was found by Mr Weir to be ripe. 15G LTNLITHGOWSHIHE. on tlie brink of the Barbauchlaw water. A few paini of the ring- ouzel ( Merula torquata) breed every year about the rocky grouod on the top of Bathgate hills. The black-headed gull {LaruM ridi^ bundus), the coot {Fulica atra)^ the gallinule or water-hen {Gatti' nula chloropus), and wild-duck {Anas boschag) breed about the banks of Balbardie loch, and Bathgate water. The same ai- tnations arc visited during autumn and winter by the redshank sandpiper {Totanus caUdrii)^ the heron {Ardea cinerea)^ the teal {Qucrquedula creccOy) the wigeon (Mareca penelope)^ the crested grebe (Fodiceps crislatus), the little grebe (Podiceps minor)^ and the bittern( Botaurus itellaris). The great cinereous shrike {Lamiui excubitor^ Linn.) the ruff {Madtetes puffnax^ Cuvier,) and the kite (Milvus regalis) have been occasionally observed. Golden orioles {Oriolus galbula) were once observed, and the turtle-dove (Co/mnfta turtur) once killed in the parish. Most birds that are reckoned game are found in this parish. Black and red grouse, pheasant, and partridge*^ all breed in it. The golden plover (Charadriut pluvialis) appears in large flocks during winter, and a few breed with us. Small flocks of the dotterel {Charadrius marinefluf ) an* nually visit our hills in April and May. The quail has also been seen. The common snipe, curlew, and lapwing breed with us. Woodcocks, jack-snipes, fieldfares, and redwings visit us in winter. So do also flocks of snow-buntings, mountain finches, and starlings. In summer wc have the spotted fly-catcher, the redstart, the wheat- ear, the whinchat, the sedge warbler, the black-cap warbler, (rare,) the greater and lesser pettychaps, the white-throat, &c.f There are two rookeries in the parish ; one, which is extensive, in the wood close by Balbardie House ; the other, which is but the scanty remains of a large one, is on the estate of Boghead. * A few years ago partridges were ?ery abundant, llic inclemency of the lait two or three seasons has thinned their numbers to such an extent that there aeexnt m danger of Uieir becofoing altogether extinct. In the very cold and wet sunuDcr of 1830, several pairs were found dead in the fields with their broods under their wings —A striking proof of the strength of their parental affection. There are at present two to be seen on the estate of Barbauchlaw with beautiful white wings. f It is impossible to notice the more common birds. From Mr Wcir*8 notes however, the following facts may be added : Goldfinches have repeatedly built their nests in trees in the town of Bathgate. On one occasion, a pair selected for this pur- pose a poplar growing on the side of one of the most frequented streets. They be- came so tame, as to alight in the gutters with the sparrows in quest of food. A fe- male goldfinch was known, twice at least, to pair with a mole linnet in the wild state. Tlic produce from this union were not admired as songsters. It is well-known that bullfinches commit great devastation among the buds of fVuit trees and bushes. Mr Weir caught a male and a female on their nest in the act of feeding their young ones. He found tlieir mouths full of small maggots. It is not improbable, therefore, that in destroying the buds, the birds arc in &ct destroying a far worfc plngue to the gar- dener than they themselves arc imagincil to be. BATHGATE. 157 Among rarer insects, the humming-bird moth (Macroghua steUatarum)y and the death's head moth (Aclierontia Atropos) may may be mentioned as having been met with. Botany » — Of the rarer species of plants found in this parish, the following may be mentioned : Paris quadrifolia Orchis bifolia Iris pseodacorus Adoxa moschatellina Polygonium bistorta A8p«*rula odorata Cistus heliantbemura Anthoxantbum odoratura Olycofna hederacea Erysimum alliaria Pinguicula vul^is Saxifraga granulata Solanum Dulcamara Seneciosaracenicus Ranunculus ficaria Malra moschata Hippuris Tulgaris Linum catbarticum. The Geranium phcBum and Saponaria offidnalU have been found growing wild : but it is not certain that they are indigenous. IL — Civil History. There is little of historical interest connected with this parish. The barony of Bathgate formed part of the dower of Marjory Bruce, '^ the lass who brought the sceptre into the Stewarts' house.*' A castle on it, situate in the low grounds south of the town, which must then have been a morass,* was from this date occasionally inhabited by the royal family. Here Walter Stewart himself died in 1328. Hardly a vestige even of the foundations of the castle is now to be discovered. Kitchen utensils of brass, have, however, sometimes been found about it ; and coflBns, formed of flat stones, have been torn up by the plough in the neighbour- ing grounds. Some of the inhabitants of this parish suffered hardship and loss in the time of the Covenanters. One man, by oame James Davie, was shot by one of a party of dragoons, who dispersed a congregation assembled in a hollow on the farm of Blackdub, in the western part of the parish. The worshippers had escaped across a strip of deep moss, which interposed an effectual obstacle to the progress of their mounted pursuers. But while they stood on the other side gazing at their enemies, and thinking tbemsekes quite safe, the troopers fired their carbines at them across the moss. The only shot that took effect killed Davie. His body lies in the old churchyard of Bathgate,f with this in- * Some remains of tbe causeways, by which access was obtained to the castle through this morass, still exist. t There are two grave-yards in this parish. The old is a full mile to the south- east of the town. It surrounds the crumbling walls of what was once the parish cbureh. When this church was built, and when abandoned, is utterly unknown. There was at least one other church between this ancient one and the present church. No flMsible conjecture occurs to account for tbe adoption of a site for the church to hx from tbe town, and so inconvenient for almost the whole inhabitants of the pa« rishy eicept this, that it might have been originally the chapel connected with the Stewarts' castle. The new churchyard is in the centre of the town, surrounding the preieDt church. 1 1 58 LINUTHOOWBOIRB. script ion, ^< Here lies the body of James Datie^ who Wis shot at Blackduby April 1673^ by Heron, for his adhering to the noid rf God and Scotland's coTenanted work of Reformation, in oppoai* lion to Popery, Prelacy, perjury, and tyranny." Eminent Men* — Dr Fleming, the celebrated naturalist, and now Professor of Natural Philosophy in King's College, Abordaeo, is a native of this parish. Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are the Earl of Hop^ toun ; Colonel Swindel Nerval of Bc^hall ; Mr Marjoribanka rf Marjoribanks ; Mr Hart of Kirkton ; Captain Sandilands of Coos- ton, &C. Parochial Regitten^ — The registers of this parish are somewhat voluminous. They had been well kept, except about the ccta* mencement of the present century. Portions, however, have been lost. The register of births b^ns in 1672, and, with a blank between 1684 and 1687, and another between 1604 and I7SI9 continues to the present time. The register of proclamations also begins in 1672, and is perfect with the omission of but two years to 1767 ; from that date to 1789, a record is possessed only for six years ; from 1789, the register is complete. The register of deaths begins 1698, and continues to 1710. From 1710 to 1769, a record is preserved only for eighteen scattered yean. From 1769, the register is complete. Of the Records of the Kirk-session's Actings, Vol. L embraces the period from lft88 to 1645, and from' 1647 to 1650; Vol. ii. from 1672 to 1680. In other three volumes, the record is complete from 1694 to 1792. From that year to 1820, only some loose scrolls of mU nutes are in existence ; but from 1820 to this day they are com* plete. Antiquities. — << Near Bathgate,'' says Penney,* ** are me* morial remains of Druid worship.*^ The writer of this notice gives the statement as he finds it, but does not know to what it refers. In the stone coffins already referred to, some co(^r coins were found. There have also been turned up, in diflTerent parts of the parish, coins of Edward L, Queen Elizabeth| and Charles IL Modem BuUdings. — Building goes on steadily in the town of Bathgate. The principal recent buildings are the Academy, a distillery, brewery, and gas-work. Freestone, either from the * Account of UnUUigoinhire, by John Pennej. 4 BATHGATE. 159 quarries of the parish^ or from those in the neighbourhood, is al- ways employed. III. — Population. The population of this parish has been steadily increasing, as the following table will show : In 1755, the population was . 1594 1791, .... 2825 1801, 1821, 1831, 1841, 2513 3283 3610 3927 The increase in the last ten years being 317, or less than ten per cent, on the whole, seems to be nothing more than might be expected in the natural progress of population. Of the above number, 2809 resided in the town of Bathgate, 103 in a small village, and 1015 in the country part of the parish. The yearly average of births it is impossible to state accurately. Many parents will not be at the trouble or expense of registration* Estimating'from the number baptized in the parish church, the num- ber of births will be about 97 or 98 per annum. The average of deaths for the last seven years previous to 1838 has been 73, of which 19, or 26 per cent, were above seventy years of age, and 9, or 12.33 per cent, above eighty. Taking the population during these seven years as averaging 3700, the annual mortality was 1.973 per cent. This very low rate proves the general healthiness of our climate and situation. It may be also partly attributed to the copious supply of excellent water brought into the town from the high gounds above. The yearly average of marriages for the same period was 28. This parish has few resident heritors. Only five or six families of independent fortune reside in it. There are connected with it nineteen proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and up- wards. IV, — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres, either constantly cultivated or occasionally in tillage, is 8712; those which have never been cultivated, and which remain constantly waste or in pasture, amount to 803 ; under wood, 506, of which only 2 or 3 are natural. The rest of the area of the parish is occupied by the site of the town with its gardens, by fences, and roads. Pro- bably one-half of the waste land might be reclaimed at a profitable rate. The only thing like common occurs in the case of two pieces 160 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. of ground ; one of four or five acres, over which a number of peo- ple have the right otfeal and divot (taking turf for putting on the ridges of liouses thatched with straw ;) the other of four acres, on which the burgh has the right of holding the annual fairs. The trees that are chiefly planted are larch, silver, spruce, and Scotch firs, oak, elm, ash, and plane. The management of the planta- tions is in general good. Rent — Wages. — The rent of land varies exceedingly, according to situation and quality. Inclosures round the town are sometimes let as high as L. 3, ^. per imperial acre. On the other hand, there is land let at very little more than 7s. The average per im- perial acre may be 16s. 6d. Husbandry, — Sheep are hardly kept in this parish at alL The only pure breed of cattle found here is the Ayrshire. Mixed breeds are very numerous. The husbandry is fully more pas- toral than arable, the vicinity of the metropolis, and the nature of the soil, making the dairy a very profitable part of the farmer's arrangements. Most of the late improvements in husbandry are finding their way into this parish, in so far as climate and soil will admit of them. The improvements most required are draining and planting. In regard to the latter, some proprietors have of late done a good deal. Mr Weir, Senior, of Boghead, has been the most extensive improver in this way, having, in the course of twenty years, planted 86 acres. But many properties continue almost destitute of wood, though its shelter is in this district very valu- able. In the way of draining and reclaiming waste land, a great deal has of late been done by the resident proprietors, who farm their own land, and by tenants. Some tenants have put dndns in every field of their farms. The ordinary duration of leases is nine- teen years. Rents generally are fixed in money. The terms of leases are commonly fair to both landlord and tenant. If the sti- pulations of a lease are strict, yet deviations from them are never challenged, if the proprietor sees that the tenant is doing justice to the land, (arm-houses and buildings have latterly been con- siderably improved. In very many cases, however, they are much inferior to what they should be. This, with want of capital, and, in some cases, want of encouragement by the proprietors, are the greatest obstacles to improvement in the agricultural state of this . parish. Quarries^ §y. — Besides the lime and coal-works already noticed, there are several freestone and whinstone quarries. Of the for- L.7541 5 3 5448 5 1892 13160 6000 500 BATHGATE. 161 mer, only one is constantly wrought. It is in the park of Balbar- die, and affords a very excellent and beautiful building stone. The whinstone quarries are chiefly wrought for materials for the roads. Produce, — The produce of grain crops averages in value, as nearly as can be oertained, Potatoes, turnips, && Hay, ••...• Land employed in pasture. Mines and quarries, .... Other produce, gardens, woods, &c. at least Total, . . . L.d4541 10 3 Manufactures. — The mass of the town population is manufac- turing. There are about 500 handloom weavers, all supplied with work from Glasgow, except a few employed by an Edinburgh shawl-manufacturer, and a few engaged with custofner-viork. 122 women and girls are employed in tambouring, and 38 in sewing webs. The wages of weaving, though occasionally good, have, on the average, afforded but a scanty remuneration to the work- man for years past. Tambouring and sewing webs have, for a considerable period, been very inadequately paid. Two brick and ttle-works afford occupation to several hands. A distillery has been in active operation for a number of years. A considerable brewery was established somewhat later. Associations. — There is an Agricultural Society here, which has an annual show, at which premiums are distributed. Its influence has been decidedly beneflcial. A Horticultural Society has been in existence for six years. V. — Parochial Economy. Town.^lLhQ town of Bathgate had in 1841 a population of 2809. It was originally a burgh of barony, a baron baillie being appointed by the proprietor of the estate of Bathgate. In 1824, with the consent of the late Mr Marjoribanks of Balbardie, who was then superior of the town, an Act of Parliament was obtained, by which it was erected into an independent burgh of barony, and all provision made for the government, police, &c. of the town. It is now governed by a provost, three baillies, treasurer, and twelve councillors, the provost, two baillies, treasurer, and four council- lors being elected yearly by the burgesses. The burgh funds con- sist of road money, customs, common good, and an assessment li- mited by the act to Is. a-pound on the valued rent of the houses in the burgh ; from these funds the ** paving, lighting, and im- proving the burgh, and establishing a polic® therein,** are clefra^- ^LINLITHQOW. L 162 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. ed. Much has been done in the last four years to improTe the pavements and causeways ; and, a g^as-work havin{|f been establish- ed, the principal streets are now tolerably lighted. The chief employment of the inhabitants is, as already mentioned, manufac- turing. There is a weekly corn-market, held on Wednesday, at which considerable quantities of grain are sold. It is by much the most important market within the county. The National Bank of Scotland and the Glasgow Union have each a branch here. At the last revision of the roll of electors for the county, the number of electors deriving quali&cations from property in the town was 72. In the landward part of the parish, the number was 61 ; total, Ida There is only one place deserving the name of a village, vii* Armadale, two miles west from the town of Bathgate* Means of Communication. — The post-office here receives letters twice a-day from the east, and once from the west. But the dis- patch of letters is not so convenient, the letter-bags being all made up at night. The communications by roads are on all hands very commodious, and the roads in general well kept. The turnpike- road from Borrowstownness towards Lanark runs for about four miles and a-half through the parish, and the middle Edinbui^h and Glasgow road for a trifle more than seven. On the latter there travelled for some years from twelve to eighteen stage- coaches daily. All have been given up since the railway was open- ed. Good bridges are found wherever bridges are needed. The fences consist chiefly of thorns, with here and there a considera* ble mixture of beech. Much attention has been paid to them ; and generally they are in pretty good order. An act has been ob- tained for a railway from Bathgate to the Slamanan Railway ; but there is little likelihood of its being soon acted upon. Four mills in the parish, two provided with steam-engines, af- ford all facility for making flour, meal, and pot-barley. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated in the town of Bathgate, and stands very near the centre of the parish, being very little more than four miles from the western, and about three miles and a-half from the eastern end of the parish. Only two families are above four miles from it. Though built in 1739, it is in very good repair. But, built when the population was not much more, if more at all, than one-third of its present amount, it has become totally inadequate to the number of inhabitants. It is seated (at the rate of Id inches a-sitting) for 719 persons. Ac- BATHGATE. 163 cording to the ordinary method of procedure, the sittings, with the exception of the communion seats, which are free to every one, and the minister's seat, were divided among the heritors in pro- portion to the valued rent of their lands, and by them allotted to their tenants. From this arrangement it results, that the whole inhabitants of the town can have right to sittings only in the seats pertaining to the Bathgate property, on which the town is built, and even these must be shared with the rural population on that property, so that the provision for 2664 persons is just 100 sit- tings. Though this is much the worst case, it is not a solitary in- stance of inadequate supply. In 1836, when these calculations were made, the estate of Barbauchlaw had dwelling on it 217 per- sons, while its proportion of sittings is only 33 ; that of Couston 145 persons, and 36 sittings ; that of Boghead, 86 persons and 27 sittings. One or two other estates, it should at the same time be stated, have more than a needful amount of sittings. The utter inadequacy of the accommodation has occasioned a number of dis- putes about seats, and has compelled some persons to join Dis- senting congregations, who otherwise would not have left the Esta- blished Church. The manse was built in 1828. The glebe is about 1 1 acres in extent, and worth, on an average, about L.19. The stipend con- sists of L.76, 18s. 2^d., 45 bolls, 1 firlot, I peck, 2 lippies of meal, and 1 9 bolls, 1 peck of barley. There are three Dissenting chapels in the parish. Two belong to the Relief and the Associate Synod, and the third is at present in connection with no religious body. The ministers of all are paid by their congregations. With the Established Church are connected 2185 persons;* with the Relief, 674; with the Associate Synod, 193 ; and with the other congregation, 267. With congregations out of the pa- rish are connected 78 persons, (of whom 14 belong to the Esta- blished Church, 5 are Episcopalians, and 7 Roman Catholics,) leaving 853 not belonging to any congregation, or whose religious profession was not ascertamed at the time of making the census.f In none of the places of worship is the attendance on divine ordi- nances what it should be. In the Established Church it varies from * All the statements here made refer to August 1836, when they were given in erideooe before the Religious Instruction Commissioners. f Tbb number is much larger than that returned by the writer, many having re- presented themselves to him as Dissenters, whom the Dissenting mini«l«t% ^^ ^v^'^- acknowledge as belonging to their congregations. 164 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. about 500 in summer to 300 io winter. In the three Dissenting chapels, which contain 1569 eittings, the average attendance was stated by the ministers to be 780, and the number of sittings let 630 ; but as these congregations embrace .392 persons beyond the bounds of the parisli, the proportion, allowing both classes to be equally exemplary, would give an attendance from the parishioners of 603, and 487 sittings rented by them. The number of persons who have been admitted to the communion of the Established Church, and have not been cut off from that privilege, nor have joined themselves to any other congregation, is about 660 ; but as this includes old people who cannot attend, some careless people who will not attend, and some whose necessities keep them back from the house of God, it is greatly above the number who join at any given communion. In winter, about 320, and in summer about 350 communicate. There is no religious society in the parish. The collections in the Established Church for religious and charitable objects, inde- pendent of the ordinary collections for the poor, have averaged an* nually L.20, 5s. 6d. Education, — Besides two schools exclusively for sewing, there are three schools in this parish, viz. one parochial, one endowed, and one unendowed. In the unendowed school, only English, writing, and arithmetic, with a little geography, are taught. The parochial schoolmaster, though qualified to teach classical literature, French, and mathematics, is seldom required to teach anything more than the teacher of the unendowed school. The endowed school is an institution known by the name of the Bathgate Academy, es- tablished under the will of Mr John Newlauds. Mr Newlandswas a native of the parish, who, after being bred a carpenter, left Bath- gate at an early age and proceeded to Jamaica, where by degrees he amassed a considerable fortune, and ultimately became a wealthy planter. He died in that island in 1 799, leaving by his will the bulk of his property to certain trustees,* ** to erect a free school in the parish of Bathgate." 1 he will, however, was chal- lenged by friends of the testator in Scotland, and the claim of the trustees opposed by the executors in Jamaica. The trustees took alarm at the prospect of being involved in heavy law expenses, and would probably have abandoned the trust, had not one of them, * When the will came to l>c acted on, a number of the nominations to the office of trustee fell, fr.iTT misnomers, &c. The only nominations which held, were those of Mr M irjoribanks of ilaltiardie. ImtA PolkemmeU Colonel Gillon of Wallhuusc, and the minister of the parish. The eldest sims of the thrtre first, and the successor of the last, are the present trustees. I BATHGATE. 165 the late Mr Marjoribanks, given bis own personal security to his co-trustees, that they should not be put to expense in the matter. After a litigation which lasted till 1814, the will was almost en- tirely set aside. Only L. 14,500 were received by the trustees, in- stead of L.60,000 or L.70,000, as the testator intended. * As the remittances reached this country, the trustees began to salary the teachers in the parish, and to employ others, till they had five schools with six teachers in different parts of the parish, to all of which the children of the inhabitants had gratuitous admission. In 1831, the funds having considerably increased, the trustees com- menced the erection of a building to the south-east of the town, which was opened as the Bathgate Academy in the autumn of 1833. It is a handsome structure, consisting of a centre and two wings connected by two colonnades. In each wing are two class* rooms 36 feet by 24. Behind one of the colonnades is the room for writing and arithmetic, 36 by 29. The centre, and the part of the building behind the other colonnade, are occupied by the library-room and a very good house for the rector. There is a full acre of play-ground in front. There are, at present, four masters in the Academy : a rector, who takes charge of all the pupils who learn Greek, Latin, or French, and who also has classes for draw- ing, music, and composition ; a master for writing, arithmetic, and mathematics ; and two for English. The rector and two Knglish masters also teach their own pupils geography. A sewing mistress was added to the establishment a year ago. At these three schools, above 600 scholars are in stead v attend- ance; and from 60 to 80 more may be entered in the course of a twelvemonth. At the last examination of the Academy, which was in August, there were 587 attending, of whom 6 studied Greek ; 47 Latin ; 71 French ; 1 78 geography ; 7 1 drew geogra- phical sketches ; 75 practised English composition, and were train- ed in drawing, and the elements of musical composition; 368 learned writing ; as many arithmetic ; and 8 niathematics. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodation and the maximum salary, and receives about L.26 in fees. The rec- tor of the academy has a free house, garden, and a salary of L. 1 40 per annum ; the other three masters each L. 105. The unendow- ed teacher receives about L.26 from fees. The rate of fees in the parochial school is, for English, 2s. 6d. a-quarter; English with * The testator's inuaning could be proved ; but the lui>guHgo of the will vnm c!e- darwi not to express what he meant it to expreiis. 166 LINLITHQOWSHIBE. writing, ds. ; aud with arithmetic, 3s. 6d. ; Latin or Frencbi 5f. ; practical mathematics, ds. There is hardly a house in the parish so situated as to make it a matter of much hardship for a child of six or seven years of age to attend some school. The numbers in actual attendance, com- pared with the population, show that the people in general are alive to the benefits of education. The Academy being free to the children of all parishioners, no additional school is needed in this parish, though an additional teacher in the Academy would be of great advantage. But the funds do not at present admit of the addition. Literature, — Connected with the Academy, there is a library for the use of the pupils, containing above 700 volumes, chiefly suited to youth. There is also a subscription library in the town^ recently begim, and now containing above 280 volumes. Friendly Societies. — There are seven such societies in the pa- rish ; one, still the largest, instituted some years previous to 17d4; the others respectively in 1759, 1792, 1799, 1806, 1809, and 1810. They are all supported by annual payments from the members, who amount to 969. They are all intended for the support of the members in sickness and old age. Some of them also pay a certain sum for the funeral charges of the members. These societies are of vast benefit to the members ; and though it may well be doubted whether they promote industry, they help to cherish among them a spirit of independence. Savings Bank, — There has been a savings bank here since 1827. A view of its operations for the last six years shows these results : 1837. 18Sa 1899. 1840. 1841. 18^ Deposited, . L.160 L.74 L.210 L.218 L.288 L.272 Drawn out, .130 211 252 333 245 818 At the last balancing of the books, there was in the bank L.629» 10s. The investments are chiefly made by servants, weavers, mechanics, &c. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The poor are not more numerous than might be expected in such a population as that of Bathgate, though it must be acknowledged that unwillingness to apply for parochial relief is on the decline, and that relatives in many in- stances seem to feel little annoyance at those near to them becom* ing the objects of public charity. 3 BATHGATE. With their On the famlliei they Occasional poor's roll, amounted to poor. There were in 18S5, 47 86 82 1836, 46 . 77 . 19 1837, 39 65 . 29 1842, 70 45 167 Total expense, including ma- nagement. L.225 7 51 . 185 17 10 226 18 0] . 308 15 lOi There was besides an expense for two lunatics, in IdSd, of L.3, 19s. 2d.; in 1836, L.d9, 9s. lO^d.; in 1837, L.16, Os. 6d. The lowest allowance to an individual pauper was 2s. a-month ; the highest, 3s. 6d. a-week, being an allowance to a widow and family. To meet this expenditure there was received In 1835. 1836. 1837. 1842. FromdiurchcoUection8,L.48 17 OJ L.47 7 Of L.42 1 71 L.38 19 64 contrib. from herit., 101 19 1 89 10 2} 183 10 217 7 8^ int. of lent money, 4400 4400 44 00 53 10 other funds, . 26 15 7 736 10 16 7110 Total, L511 11 8i L.188 24 L.279 3 114 L.318 8 3 The proprietors of three-fourths of the land being non-resident, the ordinary funds could not be expected to be adequate to the support of the poor. The heritors made a voluntary contribution for that end ; and to make their contributions equal, they are just according to the valued rent of their lands. The great increase in 1842 is chiefly to be ascribed to the depression of trade. The interest is the produce of L. 1100, which was lefi to the poor of Bathgate by Henry Calder, Esq. of Edisto Island, Carolina, a native of the parish, in 1820, but was only recovered by the pre- sent minister in 1828. The other funds arise from dues on procla- mations, mortcloths, &c Prison. — Bathgate is a sherifldom by itself, a distinction which it probably owes to its ancient connection with the royal family of Scotland. Practically, however, the Sherifi' of the county is now always appointed Sheriff of Bathgate too. Sheriff-courts are held at Bathgate four times a-year. There is a small prison, compris- ing three strong cells for criminals, and a debtors' room, the whole government of which is in the magistrates of the burgh. It is much too confined to be a very healthy place of confinement. During last year (1838) there has been no person confined in it either for debt or police offences, but upwards of twenty deserters or persons charged with military offences, mostly for a single night, on their route either to Glasgow or Edinburgh. Fairs J §t. — There are seven fairs for the sale of cattle and horses held annually in Bathgate, the principal of which take place on the Wednesdays after Whitsunday and Martinmas, O. S. There are seven inns in the parish ; and, altogether^ 31 ^^\%^\n&\v- censed to retail intoxicating lic^uots. T\\\s eTLa^«»'Svs^ \sv>SSx\^v:s^'^^'^ 168 MNLITHGOWSHIKK. of licenses, and the facility with which they are granted, have proved very injurious to the economical and moral habits of many of the population. I'ueL — The fuel used in this parish is almost entirely coaL The use of peat has, almost universally, given place to that of coal. The price of the latter varies from 8d. to lOd. a-load. Many of the parishioners, however, get coal, not from any of the pits in the parish, but from Sir William Baillie's coal-work at Benhar, parish of Whitburn, which yields the best coal in this part of the country. Miscellaneous Observations. Very great changes have taken place in this parish since the former Account was published. The middle road between Edin- burgh and Glasgow, which is by much the most frequented line between these two cities, and which passes through the town of Bathgate, was not at that time even contemplated. No direct road to the east and west existed, except parish roads, the lines, levels, and keeping of wl)ich, were all extremely bad. Increased facility of communication has been of material service in helping forward the other improvements, to which the gradual progress of the country has been leading. Considerably more than double the number of acres is now regularly under the plough ; and, from draining, better modes of culture, &c. the produce is even more than proportionally augmented. Dairy- farming is now followed to a much greater extent than formerly, and has in considerable measure taken the place of the feeding of cattle. A very lar^ge quantity of milk and butter is sent to Edinburgh and Airdrie every week. The greatest change, however, has been effected by the intro- duction of the cotton manufacture into the town. The increase of the population previous to the publication of the former Statistical Account, was ascril)ed mainly to the increase of the coal-works. The coal- works then were situated close by the town, and the colliers were chiefly resident in it. "^Ilie working of coal is pro- bably as extensive now as it was then. But the old works having been abandoned, the collier population is now more numerous iu the country than in the town. Yet the whole increase of popula- tion in the rural part is but 100, while the town population has very nearly doubled. One-half of the whole inhabitants of the pa- rish are now, in one way or other, dependent oi| manufactures. We share, of course, in both the good and the evil of such occu- pations. Jpril 1843. PARISH OF LINLITHGOW.* PRESBYTERY OF LINLITHGOW, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN & TWEBDDALE. THE REV. ANDREW BELL, D.D., MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The earliest form in which the name of the parish ap- pears, is in the charter of David L to Holyrood, where it is spelt Linlitcu. From the time of that prince, the orthography is very various, changing with the fashions of different times, and the taste of different writers ; thus it appears as Linliscu, Lynlithkon, Lin- liscoth, &c. till it assumes its present form, Linlithgow, popularly contracted Lithgow. The etymology of the name is variously given ; some ascribe to it a British origin, its component parts bcs ing traced to words in that language, which signify the lake of the expansive hollow ; others derive the word from the Gaelic, and render it, the lake of the grey doffj supporting this opinion by a reference to the armorial bearings on the common seal of the •burgh, which represent a dog tied to a tree, — referring, as is said, to the old legend of such an animal being discovered bound to a tree on the island which adorns the east end of the lake. An* other, and perhaps the most probable etymology, is that which de- rives the word from the Saxon, in which language, Linlithgow sig- nifies the lake of the sheltered valley^ an appellation descriptive of the situation of that beautiful sheet of water, which, being the :inost remarkable object in the scenery, would naturally determine the name of the town and district. Extent, SfC — The mean extent of the parish is, from east to west, . about 5 miles, and about 3 from north to south. Its boundaries are, on the north, Borrowstowniiess, Cnrriden,and Abercorn; ontheeast, Abercorn and Ecclesmachan ; on the south, Uphall, Ecclesma- * . chan, and Bathgate ; and on the west, Torphichen and the river . Avon, which divides it from Muiravonside in Stirlingshire. The • surface of the parish is very unequal ; towards the east ;\nd north- east it is level, but it rises toward the south, where it is crossed • Oblij^inglj furuUhed by the Rtv. W. S. .Sula^t^ lA\>V\>>ci'^'w* l70 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. ill its whole extent by tbat range of hills which runs obliquely through a considerable part of the county. Several of the emi- nences in this range within the parish attain a considerable eleva- tion : the most remarkable are the heights named Cocklerue and Binny-Craig, the former of which rises more than 600,and the other 600 feet above the level of the sea. Nearer the centre of the range there is a lower set of heights, named from the now nearly ex- tinct village of Riccarton, and connected with the former series by lateral rising grounds, which slope down towards the town of Lin- lithgow. On the north side of the lake, there is another hilly which, though not so elevated as those already named, from its neighbourhood to the Frith of Forth, commands a very extensive and beautiful prospect. All of these heights are either cultivated or in pasture ; some of them are wooded, and the acclivity is gentle. Meteorology. — No regular register has been kept in the parish* It may be stated, however, that the prevailing winds are from the west and south-west ; that the climate is good, and excedingly &- vourable to health. Only a few years back, an individual died in the town, considerably above 100 years of age. Several persons now living in the parish are above 90 ; while 80 and upwards is no uncommon period of life. There are no diseases peculiar to the parish : It has often escaped the ravages of those severe epidemics which have, from time to time, desolated other parts of the coun« try. In 1646, the Scottish Parliament held its meetings in Lin- lithgow, when the plague was prevalent in the metropolis. Hydrography, — The parish abounds with springs, furnishing a copious supply of the purest water. A well at Carubber was for- merly resorted to, as possessing similar properties to the Moflit Spa ; it is now totally neglected. Even the site of it is known to few. There is only one loch in the parish — that, on the north bank of which the town and palace of Linlithgow are situated. This fine lake is about one mile in length, about a-quarter of a mile at its greatest breadth, and covers 154 English acres ; in some places the depth is considerable. Several springs well up from the bot- tom, which, with a rivulet toward the east end, and the surplus water from the town, are its feeders. It discharges itself by a rivulet, named the Loch-burn, which, after a short course, emp- ties itself into the Avon. Embosomed amid rising grounds, some of which are finely wooded, with the gardens to the north of the town stretching along its shore, and overlooked by the noble LINLlTH previous heads. It is gof erned by a council, conskfing of trfin^^ seven members, including provost, four bailios, treasurer. There is no local police, the public peeee ciently preserved, in ordinary circumstaocet, by the Formerly the council appear to have exercised an authorilf would now be deemed despotic In their minutes, variooi for example, occur in relation to the observance of the fi a h he lM i ' One or these is as late as the year 1711, which enforces cburah' dance, shutting of the shops of biBwsters and tapsters under a nalty, and forbids walking on that day in the yards and yard-h eads der penalty of a fine, — holding parents answerable for their cbiMni^ and masters for their servants and apprentices ; and in the fdlol^i ing year, the council, for the preservation of the peace of the tiNM% order a guard of fifteen burgesses to keep watch and ward Dighclj^ from ten o'clock till five o'clock in the rooming. If any should be absent when regularly called in his turn, his house to be poinded mat day for payment of a fine of L.12 Scots. At an earlier period^ m similar act, calling upon the burgesses to march, on some public o^ casion, is enforced under pain of death. The town is amply supplied with the finest waters, brought from springs in the high grounds 16 the south of the town, and distributed throughout the various puUie wells. One of these in particular deserves notice, — the^crosswell,re^ built in 1816 by a one-handed mason, in exact imitation of a previp ous structure which had gone to decay. It is of a hexagonal 6gunB^ adorned with a variety of sculptural and grotesque figures, said to have been originally designed in ridicule of the irregular habits of the regular Romish clergy. It has thirteen very beautiful jMi tmaik and the whole is crowned by a Hon rampant, supporting the rojel arms of Scotland. The town is also lighted with gas. The revemie of the town amounts to about L.700, arising chiefly from proper^i the borough mills, and the town and bridge-customs. Alexander IL had bestowed the mills of Linlithgow, with all their pertinents, en the priory of Manuel, of which the remains are still to be seen oa the opposite side of the river. These, in 1586, were granted to the town by Lady Jane Livingston, prioress of that convent, on condi« tioo of their paying annually 20 merks Scotch. That grant waa renewed after the Reformation by James VL, and other privileges' conferred, by a charter of novodamus in 1592. The bridge-custom was exacted in terms of ancient charters, giving the town right of custom from Avon Bridge to the sea. A claim has been Hwde on LINLITHGOW. 183 the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway for payment of the ordinary dues on goods carried by the Company across the Avon and through the burgh ; and though the claim has been resisted, the council are prosecuting it with a reasonable prospect of success. Should it be successful, it will add immensely to the revenue, placing very ample funds at the disposal of the council for burgh purposes. At one time, the town had an exclusive right of trade from the water of Cramond to the mouth of the Avon ; and when North Queensferry was created a royal burgh, the design was resisted by Linlithgow, on the ground of its infringing the privileges of the latter. The matter, however, was compromised by the Ferry, among other articles, paying ten merks Scotch annually, which sum is still exacted. Linlithgow ranks as the sixth in order of the Scottish burghs. By act of Parliament, it had the charge of the standard firlot measure ; but since the introduction of the im- perial measures, the Linlithgow firlot is only a matter of antiqua- rian curiosity. The town house was built in 1668, and contains the jail, Sheriff- Court-house, and town^hall. The county build- ings in the rear of the town- house are plain in their exterior. The hall is a 6ne apartment, adorned with fine portraits of John Earl of Hopetoun by Raeburn, and of Sir Alexander Hope by Watson Gordon. The town enjoys the beneBt of a branch of the Commercial Bank. Means of Communication, — There is one post-office in the pa- rish, that of Linlithgow. The district enjoys the advantage of ex- cellent roads. There are, in the parish, about seven miles of turn- pike road, under the management of two separate trusts. These roads are in good order, and the funds of the trusts are in a better state than most, having but a small amount of debt. The parish roads extend to about thirty miles, and are in a good state of repair. They have been sixteen years under the management of one indi- vidual. The Union Canal and the Edinburgh and Glasgow Rail- way both pass through the parish. There is a railway station at Linlithgow, where all the regular trains call, and from which omnibuses run to Bathgate and Bo'ness. Ecclesiastical State. — The church, which, being situated in tho town, is near the mass of the population, is a very fine building, of great antiquity, and one of the most perfect existing specimens of the early ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland. It is supposed to have been founded by David I., that ^* sair saunt for the crown.*' "•'1 184 LINLITHOOWSBIRE. By recent measurement, its length is 167 feet, and its bMidthj Wh eluding the aisles 105 feet From the centre of. the watt firaal there rises a square tower, which was formerly furmouDted by as imperial crown. This, however, was removed a number of ago, from an apprehension that it was too weighty for the tot At the time of its removal, it was proposed to replace it by m.a* milar crown made of iron. This, however, has never been effsel- ed. Some of the windows are very beautiful, and, previous to the Reformation, the exterior was decorated with statues, of whieh only one now remains, that of St Michael, the old patron saint^of the burgh. The church, with its pertinents, was assigned by Dl»» vid I. to the prior and canons of St Andrews. It was afterwaids served by perpetual vicars, several of whom attained high rank JD the church. Formerly, the west end was used as the plaee of wor- ship. In 1812, the east end was 6tted up as a church at a cost of nearly L*. 4000, and now forms a very elegant church, seated for 1100 persons. The charge was once collegiate, but has been loqg single. In some accounts, mention is made of an abrogated pe* rish, that of Binny, having been, at the Reformation, united to the parish of Linlithgow. Some, however, doubt whether Binny -was ever a distinct parish, and conceive that the chapel there was sub* sidiary to tlie church of Linlithgow. There is now an excellent manse built, since the last Statistical Account was written, Tfae glebe is valued at about L. 11 per annum, and the stipend ave* rages somewhere about L. 330. There are two congregations eon» nected with the United Secession Church in the parish, one place of worship containing about 600 sittings and the other nearly 600. The former was rebuilt, not many years ago, at an expense of L. ] 150. There is also a congregational chapel Utely rebuilt, at an expense of L. 700, and containing about 850 sittings, fifore recently, a congregation has been formed in connection with the Free Protesting Church. They have it in contemplation to erect a place of worship ; their number cannot be correctly stated, but it is believed that it is on the increase. When the Church Commia- sion was here, it was computed by the Established minister, that there were 1300 Dissenters in the parish, and by one of the Se* cession ministers, that there were 1526, — all the rest being church* men. Since then, their relative numbers have not changed, with the exception of tho recent secession from the Establishment, the extent of which, as already mentioned, cannot be distinctly stated. LINLITHGOW. 185 The members of all the religious bodies contribute to the support of the religious and benevolent objects of the respective denomina- tions ; in some cases liberally. There were various religious In- stitutions in the town, but for some time past they have been in abeyance. It is hoped, that they will soon revive into more than former activity. Education. — There are nine schools in the parish. Of these one is the burgh school, under the patronage of the town-coun- cil, and the rector of which receives a salary of L.dO per annum ; another is a charity school for girls, founded by Mrs Douglas, sister of the late Dr Dobie, minister of the parish; the rest are private unendowed schools. The burgh school had formerly two teachers; but since the election of the present rector, there has been no assistant In former times, it would appear from some old minutes of council that there had been a music school, under the patronage of the council, though no information can now be given regarding \U In 1834, there were 547 children attending all the schools in the parish, and since then the number has not decreased. Literature. — Dr Henry the historian left his valuable library to the parish. For a series of years, it continued to prosper, but for a considerable period, it has been completely neglected, the books being left to decay on the shelves, without one single reader. It is difficult to say what is the reason of this singular fate of a be- quest which, in most circumstances, would have fared very diffe- rently. The cause commonly assigned is the terms of the bequest The presbytery and town-council were to enjoy the beneBt of the library upon paying 5s. per annum, the members of the former body having the first reading of all new works. Other readers were to pay 10s. annually, and to wait for the new productions often till they had become old. Such a constitution could 8carcely be expected to insure prosperity. Various efforts have been made to revive the library ; but, until some alteration is ef- fected in the terms of admission, it is to be feared they will be all hopeless. There is a subscription library at Linlithgow Bridge, and one in connection with the First United Secession Church, which, upon payment of a small annual sum, is open to all who choose to read. There is a news-room in the town, and a society for the purchase 186 LINLlTHGOWSHlttE. and perusal of periodicab. A tmall monthly shecti entillad DUkfm Advertiser, is published io liolitbgowi and circulated thrap^tr out the county, and the eastern dbtrict of Stirltngahire. Charitable Institutions. — There are nine Friendly So ci e t iei im'- Linlithgow, the Masons', Dyers', Gardners^, Crispins^t Tinncfl^: Trades' Friendly, Odd Fellows, and Rechabites. The dkaio ob^ ject of these Societies is, for the purpose of alimenting sick and de- cayed members. Their funds are raised by monthly and quarter- ly subscriptions of the members. The rate of aliment diSBfU. One of them, the Dyers, in addition to the aliment they gifOi al- lows a small sum annually for educating the children of deoeeaed members between six and twelve years of age. They also gife a sum in the shape of funeral expenses at the death of a member or a member's wife. The Rechabite Society is founded upon the principle of total abstinence, a member forfeiting all claim to ite beoe&ts, should he violate the pledge. Several of these Sociotiea have accumulated money and property to a considerable eitent» and all of them are prosperous. Their term of existence is n* rious. Some are of long standing, others are very recent Several of them have existed as Societies, long prior to their becoming Friendly, — as, for example, the Society of Gardeners has existed for several centuries, the person who founded it having been Gardener to the palace in its days of splendour, and the individual by whom the fine old trees which still beautify its eastern front, were plant* ed. As Friendly Societies, the oldest is that of the Dyers, which has existed for eighty years ; then the Grardeners, which has exist- ed for sixty years ; the Tanners, also sixty ; the Crispins, nineteen; the Masons, thirty-two ; the Rechabites, two years ; and the Odd Fellows, a branch of the Manchester Union, only a few months. The Incorporated Trades who have funds,giTe a small annual al- lowance to decayed members. These allowances are more cha- ritable, than granted as a matter of right. Poor. — There are at present about 140 persons on the poor's roll ; the number having very considerably increased within the last two years. The monthly distribution is about L. 24. The rate per month varies according to the circumstances of the per- son, from 2s. to 1 5s. The rent of land belonging to the session, together with the collections at the church doors, and other duea, has, till within these last two years, been suflBcient for all expenses. Prison. — The state of the prison here has been materially im- LINLITHGOW. 187 proved wkbio these last few years, under the inspection of the Prison Board. The namber of prisoners confined during last year, was 125. This, however, includes the county, and affords no criterion by which to judge of the amount of crime in the pa- rish. The prison is well secured, and every attention paid to the health and even comforts of the prisoners ; each cell is heated with a stove and lighted with ga$, regularly cleaned, and as well ventilated as the situation of the prison will admit. Each pri- soner, when brought in, is washed and clothed in a prison dress. The diet is excellent, consisting of six ounce of oatmeal made in- to porridge, for break&st, with three-fourths of a pint of buttermilk. Dinner, ox-head broth, four ounce barley, four ounce bread, and a proportion of vegetables, each alternate day, pease-brose, fish, and potatoes. Supper the same as breakfast Provision is also made for the religious instruction of the prisoners; in addition to the services of a chaplain, each cell is provided with a Testament. Mr Alison the governor instructs the male-prisoners, who cannot read or write ; and his wife, the female prisoners. Many of them appear to value the instruction they receive, and some of them make considerable progress. A new jail is to be immediately erect- ed, in which greater facilities will exist for the exercise of the im- proved prison discipline. Pairs. — There is a weekly market, and six annual fairs in Lin- lithgow. Inns. — There are two inns in the town, one adjoining the Rail-^ way station, of a superior class. There are a number of public- houses. It would be well for the town, were they much reduced in number ; for many of them only serve to administer^ to the crav- ings of intemperance. Fuel. — The only fuel used is coal, which is procured from the Duke of Hamilton's and other coal pits to the west, and from Borrowstownness. MiSCELLANBOUS OBSERVATIONS. Since the last Statistical Account was written, considerable changes have taken place in the parish. Several branches of trade then prosecuted in the town are now extinct, such as the trade in wool, then a staple commodity, carpet -weaving, and tambouring in factories. But though various branches of trade have become ex- tinct, there is no reason to imagine that any great decline has taken place in the prosperity of the town ; population has increased, and 188 LINLITUGOW8HIRS. « the general comforts of the inhabitants augmented* In agiielBl- ture, the change has been great But though agriculture lie m far advanced as in any district, and little remains to be denied in the matter of improved communication, — ^much may yet be to promote the happiness and comforts of the people. July 1843. COUNTY OP LINLITHGOW. This County is bounded on the north by the Firth of Forth ; on the east and south-east, by the county of Mid- Lothian ; on the south-west, by that of Lanark ; and on the west, by that of Stir- ling. It is situate between 65.49 and 56.] north latitude; and 3.18 and 8.51 west longitude. It is computed to contain about 112 square miles, or 7 J, 680 acres ; whereof 50,000 are cultivatedi 10,000 uncultivated, and 11,680 unprofitable. The valued rent in 1649 was L. 75,027, 12s. 2d. Scots. The annual value of real property, as assessed in 1815, was L. 97,597. Population in 1841, 26,848; number of inhabited houses, 5309. The Parliamentary constituency in 1842 was 650. Table I. Showing the total number of persons in the county of Linlithgow committed for trial or bailed in the year 1841 : — Offences against the person, ...... 40 property, with violence, .... 2 without violence, . . . 41 Forgery and offences against the currency, . . . • 4 Other offences, ..*...• 14 Tol 190 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. o be c s o O en eg A* s 3o J CO o o bo a o CO ,8 ■9 e o 3 O a o 'J 3 I T5"W OOD s Is 8_ b 3 O CDO O OO o o o o o o S S3 S Si = J O A o >»^ S S a -^ .§ igJ-ss 3 OO OO O o o o OCD or^ is s a s 3 "3 c 2 M (3 E ••« ja au I CO J] 5 r* ^^ •J OO oe 9S •JBj ui 8iooqd<; 3 I S 2 &: " a sinnpiAipui 'Midg JO *u9p tiQ im^j do 6960999909 99 oooowdo •I S 2 :a : i •OQ OCI g|wip!Aipoi •qojnio noiyr[ndoj tf I 3 1 s ^ O • ^H '5 S 8 i • • • • X & e 1 11 sL- 8 illil 0^ 3taeQ3 INDEX. Abercom, parish of, 18— castle and pro- perty of, 23 Academy, Bathgate, 164 Aebercumig, ancient monastery of^ 1 8 — its history, 23 Aimcoth hills, the, 55, 120 Agricultural Society, the Bathgate, 161 Agriculture and rural economy, 28, 5 1 , 69, 81, 87, 105, 112, 118, 135, 159, 178 Almond water, the, 76, 90, 115, 150 Amondell house, 87 Antoninus* wall, see Roman wall Antiquities, 6, 26,47, 65, 81, 117, 127, 158, 174 Ai^gadus, a British chief, tradition regard- ing, 55 Armadale, village of, 162 Auldcathie, annexed parish of, 90 Avenale, fiunily of, 23 Avon water, 35, 36, 121, 170 Avonton house, 174 Baird, Principal, birth-place of, 131 Balbardie, loch at, 150 Barbachlaw water, 155 Bargeny, Lord, 62 Bambougle castle, ruins of, 95 — its his- tory, 96 Baron, Professor, 83 Bathgate, parish of, 149 — town of, 161 — water, 155 Bedlormie house, ruins of, 50 Bell, Henry, inventor of the marine steam engine, 46 Binn^ hiU, 18— house, 26 Binny, capture of Linlithgow castle by, 171 Binny-craig hill, 170 Blackburn, village of, 119 Blackness, - termination of the Roman vrall at, 26, 65— bum, 19, 57 — castle, 55 —its history, 60, 68— village of, 72— its former importance, 73 Blackridge, village of, 52-^church at, 53 Blair, Lord President, 174 BoMess, see Borrowstownness Bonhard house, 68 — village of, 75 Bonnar, Rev. John, 46 Borrowstownness, parish of, 120 — town of, 134, 139-:-its rise, 139 — raanufiu:tures, trade, and shipping of, 1 36 — its har- bour, 140 Botany, 21, 38, 60, 94, 1 10, 116, 123, 157 Bowden hill, 35 — ancient camp on, 50 LINLITHGOW. Breich water, 76, 116 Brickfield in Carriden, 71 Bridge castle, remains of, 50 Bridgeness point, 55 — village, 72 Broxburn, village of, 87 Bruce, Rev. Archibald, 84 Buchan, the Earl of, 85 Bullion well, the, 110 Bumfoot, birth-place of Colonel Oardiner at, 63 Cairn on Torphichen, remains found in, 50 Caimapple or Caimpapple hill, 35, 150 Calder, Henry, bequest by, 167 Camp, ancient, on Bowden hill, 50 Canal, proposed from Bo'ness to Glawow, 148 Cargill, Daniel, tradition regarding, 81 Carmelite church, remains of the, at Queensferry, 6— convent in Linlithgow, 175 Carriden, papish of, 54 — bum, 57 — house, 60, 68 — termination of the Roman wall at, 65 Carse of Kinneil, the, 147 Castle Lyon, ruins of, 130 Cattle, see Live-Stock CedMS, remarkable, at Hopeton house, 22 Charitable institutions, vanous, in Linlith- gow, 186 Chemical works in Carriden, 71 Church of Dalmeny, the, 101 Churches, Established, see Ecclesiastical Statistics — Dissenting, see Dissenters. Climate and Meteorology, 1, 19, 35, 56, 92,110,121, 170 Coal-field of Carriden, the, 58 Cocklebum, the, 92 Cockleroi hill, 35, 170 Coins, ancient, foimd in BoMess, 129 — in Carriden, 68 — in Dalmeny, 103 — in Linlithgow, 175 Collieries in Abercom, 20 — in Bathgate, 151, 154— in Bo^ess, 123, 136— in Carriden, 58, 70 — in Torphichen, 87, 52— in Uphall, 88— in Whitburn, 76 Comiebum, the, 18, 19 Couston, mineral well at, 151 Covenant, bumingofthe,in Linlithgow, 173 Craigie hill, 91— house, 94— femily of, ib. Crawhill house, 35 Crofthead ironstone, the, 76 Cross, ancient, remains of, 26 Cuflabouts, village of, 72 N 192 INDEX. lialineuy, piirihh of, .00— house, ]>ark, and {^rounds, U\^ f*.V -\illage, 1U(» Dfilyell, (ieiiural, birth-phice of, 24 ]>uvid»on, James, botjuest by, 1U8 Davie, JanieH, dealh of, 157 Dean bum, the, 122 Deehuiont law, 11.5 Deer park at Hopeton house, the, 20 D'Ksse, M., defence of BlacknesH outlc by, ()1 Dissi'iiterH and Dinsonting Chapels, 13, 30, 74, 82, «7, 107, 112, 119, 145, 163 DiHtillery, Bo^iess, 137— Glenforth, 10 Douglas, Mr*, school endowed bv, 185 Draining, 2.0, »7, DJO, 17H Dniidical circle in Torpliichen, 49 Drunishorlan inoor, 87 Duddingstoun house, 27 Dundas of Dundas, family of, 98 — Sir George, 41— John, of Philpstown, 24 Dundas castle, ruins of, 100 — hill, 90 Ecclesiastical statirstics, 13, 30, 52, 73,81, 88, 107,114, 119, 142, 1C2, 183 Kcclesmachan, parish of, 109 Edgar, port, origin of the name of, 2 Education, statistics of, 14, 32, 53, 74,84, 89, 107, 114, 11.0, 147, 1C4, 185 Erskine, Henry, 86* Fairs and markets, IG, 107, 187 Fauldhouse, village of, 79 Ferry at Queensferry, history of the, 9 Fishcric»8, herring, 6lC. 7, 130 — BulmoD, 7, 30, 71, 93 Fishing nets, manufactor}' of, 8 Fleming, Professor, birth-place of, 158 Forth, Firth of, 1— its depth, &c. at Queensferrj', /6.— 19, 56, 57, 92, 121 Founderv, Ikj'ness, 137 Friendly' Societies, 14, 53, 74, 120, 146, 186 Fuel, prices, &c. of, 16, 33, 120, 168, 187 Gardiner, Colonel, birth-place of, 63 Geology and Mineralogy, 1,19, 36, 57, 76, 90,110,116, 122,151 George IV., sailing of, from Port Edgar, 2 Gibbison, Rev. John, 104 Gibbites, origin of the, 1 33 Gil bum, 122 Glenforth Distiller}' Company, the, 16 Glowr-owre-em hills, the, 55 (Gordon, Rev. Charles, 104 Graeme, Sir John, 23 Grahame or Grime's Dyke, origin of the name of, 67 — see Roman wall Grange house, 68 Grange Pans, village of, 71| 72 Greenridge colliery, 77 Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh, aflsasaination of the Regent Murray by, 173 — Rev. Alexander, 104, 110 — Lord Claud, oc- cuiMition of Blackness castle by, 61 — Sir Gilbert, 130— Sir Thomas, 133— William, of Bangour, 110 Harbour of Bo*iicm, the, 140 Hay, John, of Lochloy, 63 ilenderson, John, 133 Henr>', Dr, bequest by, 185 Hildcrston hill, colliery at, 37 History, civil, 23, 38, 60, 81, 85, IIO, 1 16, 127, 157 Hope, Admiral Sir George J., 64 Hope-Vere, family of, 95 Hopeton, General the Earl of; 2, 24 Hopeton house, 27 — remarkable trees at, 22— Deer park, 21 Horticultural Society, the Bathgate, 161 Houston House, 86,87 Humbie, quarry of, 91 Husbandry, svstem of, 28, 69, 81, 88, 106, 113, 118, 135, 160 Hydrography, 19,36, 57, 110, 121, 150, 170 Inch Garvie, Island and forti6catioiis of, 1, 101 Inns and alehouses, 16, 33, 75, 120, 167, 187 Irongath hills, the, 55, 120 Ironstone, beds of^ in Bathgate, 153 — in Bo'ness, 136— in Whitburn, 78 In vera von, ruins of tower at, 129 Jail, Queensferrv, 15 — Linlithgow, 186 * Kid, Rev. Mr, 5* Kinneil, termination of the Roman wall at, 128— Carse of, 147, — House, and its historj', 130 — description of, 131— old parish of, 120 Kippshill, mineral spring at, 36 — house, remains near, 49 Kirkhill house, 87 Kirkwood the grammarian, 174 Knights of St John, history of the, 39 Knightsridge hiU, 115 Knock hill, 150 KnoUes, Sir William, 41 Lady *s Scaup, the, a shallow in the Forth, 148 Landowners, 25, 46, 64, 85, 111, 117, 135, 158, 174 Laughing hill, the, 129 Leases, duration, &c of, 70, 118, 135, 160, 179 Lees, Sir John, Bart, 63 Libraries and literature, 14, 33, 53, 84, 147, 166 Limestone, remarkable, in Abercom, 29, — in Bathgate, 153 — in Torphichen, 37 Lindsav, David, imprisonment of^in Black- ness, 62— Sir Walter, 41 Linlithgow, parish of, 169 — loch, 170 — town and castle, their history, 171| 181 — palace, description of, 176 Linlithgow bridge, village of, 180 — ^battle of, 172 Linlithgowshire, general observations on, 189 I Linnmill bum, the, 19 — cascade on, 92 LINLITHGOWSHIRE. 103 Liflton, ReY. Henry, 1 1 1 Live-stock, breeds, &e. of, 51, 69, 88, 113, 118, 179 Livingstone, Lord, 116 Livingstone, parish of, 115 — peel of, 117 — ^hoiue, i6. — village, 119 Loch bum, the, 170 Lochcote hills, cairn on, 50 — ^house, 51 — loch, 36 Loggie water, 35, 36 Longevity, remarkable instancea of, in LinUthgow, 170 Malcolm III^ marriage of^ 2 Manufactures, 8, 52, 71, 161, 180 Margaret, Queen of Malcolm III., 2 Mary, Queen, birth-place of, 174 Mauke's hill, the, 118 Maxwell of Middleton, 87 Meek, Captain Henry, bequest by, 15, 108 Melville, Andrew, imprisonment of, in Bhickness, 61 Meteorology, see Climate Middleton house, 87 Midhope bum, 19 — house, remains of, 26 Mineral well in Linlithgow, 170 Mineralogy, see Geology Ministers of Abercom from 1690, 25— of Bo'nesB from 1694, 143 — of Dalmeny, from 1610, 104 — of Queensferry from 1635, 13— of Uphall from the Reforma- tion, 89 Monshill, 91 Mowbray, &mily of, 96 Muir, Sfunuel, 81 Muirhouses, village of, 72 Murray, Patrick of Livingstone, 116 Murray, the Regent, assassination of, 172 Nethermill bum, the, 19 Nets, manu&ctuie of, 8 Newlands, John, bequest by, 164 Newton, limestone quarry of, 29 — village of, 30 New Year field, the, 117 Ochiltree mill, Roman camp at, 175 Ogil&ce castle, ruins of, 50 Palace of Linlithgow, the, 176 Panter, Secretary, imprisonment of, in Inch Garvie, 101 Parochial registers, 4, 25,47, 64, 103, HI, 117, 127, 158, 174 Pauperism, see Poor Peanfiihel, termination of the Roman wall, at, 26 Phipstown, village of, 30 Phmtations and planting, 22, 38, 106, 1 1 3, . 118,179 Poor, management of the, 14, 15, 33, 53, 75,89, 108,115,120,146,186 Population returns, 6, 28, 51, 69, 81, 87, 104,112,118,134,159,177 Porteous, Dr William, 82 Potter, Rev. Michael, 133 Pottery, Bo'ness, 137 Preceptory of Torphichen, the, 40, 47 Preston island, 121 Priestinch hill, 18— bog, 1 9— coal mine at, 20 Primrose, &mily of, 97--ArchibaId, ib. Prison, Bathgate, 167— Lmlithgow, 186 Produce, agricultural, &c., 30, 52, 7 1 , 1 1 3, 160 Quarries, 29, 37, 52, 70, 81, 88, 118, 136, 153, 160, 179 Queensferry, parish of, 1 — town of, t5.-~its early importance, 2-— history, i5.— his- tory of the Ferry, 9 — piersand harbours, 11,12 Ramsay, Rev. Mr, burning of the cove- nant by, 173 Registers of Queensferry, extracts from, 4 Reiving crag, 150 Rent, rates of, 51, 69, 105, 113, 118, 135, 160 Riccarton, village of, 170 Rigg, William, imprisonment of, in Black- ness castle, 62 Roads, bridges, &c., 9, 30, 52, 72, 106, 114,162,183 Roebuck, Dr John, projector of the Car- ron Iron Works, 63 Roman remains found in Carriden, 68«- in Dalmeny, 103 — in Linlithgow, 175^ Road, 102, 128, 174— Wall, the great, 26, 60, 65, 127 Rope work, Bo^ess, 137 Rosebery, Earl of, 1, 95 — history of the &mily of, 97 St John, Kniffhts of, 39 — their Preceptory at Torphichen, 40 Salt-works on Carriden, the, 71 Sandhills, remarkable, in Torphichen, 37 Sandilands,fiunily.of,45— Sir James, 42, 44 Savings' Banks, 74 Schools, see Education Scottish Parliament, meetings of the, in Linlithgow, 173 Semple, Lady, bequest by, 107 Shairp of Houston, &mily of, 86 Sibbald, Sir Robert, 46 Soap, manu&ctory of, in Queensferry, 8 Society, village of, 30 Sonmierville, Dr James, 83 South Queensferry, see Queensferry Spring, mineral, in Torphichen, 36 Stair, the Earl of, 174 Stewart of Craigie, frunily ot 95 — Dugald, residence of, in Bo^ness, 131— Walter, 157 Stone coffins found in Bathgate, 157 — in BoViess, 129— in Carriden, 68 — ^in Dal- meny, 102 — in Torphichen, 50 Strathbrock, origin of the name of, 85— i history of, 86 Templars, suppression of the, 40 Tide, rise of the, at Queensferry, 1 194 INDEX. Tor hill, the, 110 Torphichen, parish of, 34 — village of, 52 — family of, 42— tenure of their title, 43 Trees, remarkable, at Hopeton home, 22 Uphall, parish of, 85 — village of, 87 lima, ancient, found in BoViesB, 129 Wages, rates of, 28, 51, 160 WaU, the Great Roman, see Roman Wallace's Cave, 35 Wallhouse, mansion-house of, 51 Walton, termination of the Roman Wall at, 65 Warden, Rolxyrt, Esq., 113, 114 Wardrope, Rev. Alexander, 82 Watt, James, 63, I 1 Wauch, Rev. John, 132 Wellhodse, mineral spring at, 36 Weill, Alexander de, 41 Welsh, ReY. John, impritonment of, in Blackness, 62 Whale, remarkable, cau^t at Abercom, SO Whitburn, parish of^ 66 Wilkie, William, 99 Winzet, Ninian, 174 Wishart, Principal, 131, 132— Rev. WU- liam, 132 — Reai^ Admiral, ib. Zoology, 20, 38, 92, 155 PRIVTED BY RTARK AND COMPANY', OLD ASSKMBLY CLOiSB, BDINBIHIOH. HADDINGTON. * y?' I 9- \ ■ i . I 1^ 1 :■: \ ■J. *^. CONTENTS. ABERLADY, ATHELSTANKFORD, BOLTON DIRLETON, DUNBAR, GARVALD AND BARA, 6LADSSIUIR, HADDINGTON, HUMBIE, INNERWICK, MORHAM, NORTH BERWICK, OLDHAMSTOCKS, ORMISTON, PENCAITLAND, PRESTONKIRK, PRESTON PANS, 8ALT0N, SPOTT, .8TENTON, TRANENT, WHITEKIRK AND TYNNINHHAM WHITTINGHAMK, YRSTER, E, PAGE 249 41 271 202 70 95 173 1 100 233 261 317 355 130 . . 18 3Sf4 106 224 65 282 29 61 153 n ■t ■ PARISH OF HADDINGTON. PRESBYTERT OF HADDINGTON, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. • THE REV. ROBERT LORIMER, LL.D. ) itrfxricTcuc THE REV. JOHN COOK, | MINISTERS. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Haddington, the county town of Haddingtonshire, or East Lothian, lies in 55^ bT north latitude, 17 miles east fronn Edinburgh, on the great post road to London. The name, though apparently of Saxon origin, is of uncertain etymology. Extent^ Boundaries, — The parish is 6^ miles io length; 6 in breadth ; and contains 22^ miles square, or about 19^000 dicres Scots, it was formerly of much greater extent ; but in 1074 part of it was annexed to the smaller parish of Athelstanerord ; and in 1692 a considerable portion, including several baronies on the west, was taken off to make up the new parish of Gladsmuir. On the north it is bounded by part of the lands of Gladsmuir, Aberiady, and Athelstaneford ; on the east by Prestonkirk and Morham ; on the south by Yester and Bolton; and on the west by Gladsmuir. The parish has chiefly a northern exposure, the land gradually ris- ing from the vale of Peffer, near the sea, to the height of Brown's Hill, which looks down upon the village of GiflTord. Topoffraphical Appearances. — The appearance of the parish is beautifully diversified by a waving irregularity of surface, thriv- ing plantations, well enclosed and richly cultivated fields, ex- tensive parks of verdant pasture, and elegant seats of the nobi- lity and gentry. Besides trees disposed, for ornament around the seats of the nobility and gentry, there are plantations of some ex- tent on the grounds of Amisfield, running up in broad regular belts to the Garleton Hills ; on the south of Stevenson ; on the higher grounds of Coalston ; and on the lands of Sir Thomas Hep- bum, Bart, towards Gladsmuir. On some parts of Coalston are copse woods, composed of dwarf or Scotch oak, the hazel, the birch, and other indigenous trees, which seem to be a remnant of HADDINGTON. A 2 HADDINGTONSHIRE. tluit si)ecie;> of copse which, it is said, in early times covered the greater part of the south of Scotland. Coalston wood is mention- ed in some of the ancient deeds of the family so far back as the thirteenth centurj*. The climate is very salubrious, remarkably free from endemic disease, or visitation of contagious fever. It is still, however, in the recollection of aged people, that in their early days, some were laid aside from work every spring, with ague : but now, the soil being so well drained, this disease is rarely if ever heard of in the district. There are at present upwards of 150 persons above seventy years of age, a considerable number beyond eighty, and several above ninety. As an instance of extraordinary longevity in one family, it seems worthy of record) that Alexander Maitland, and Catherine Cunningham, were married 6th August 1657. The ages of nine of the children of this marriage amounted to no less than 738 years. Another thing remarkable of this marriage is, that the eighteenth year of it produced trines, and the twenty-first twins. The ages of the trines amounted to 256. Hydro(jraphy, — The Tyne is the only river in the parish. Its source may be traced into the parish of Crichton, about twelve miles westward. After receiving the tributary streams of Salton and Coalston, it passes through Haddington, dividing the burgh from the suburb of Nungate, and proceeding nine miles eastward, falls into the sea below Tyninghame, about a mile to the westward of Dunbar. Though generally of moderate breadth and depth (averaging ten or twelve yards in breadth, two feet in depth, and flowing, when unimpeded by embankments, somewhat less than two miles an hour,) yet being as a trough to a large extent of sloping surface, particularly the Lammermoor range of mountain on the south, it sometimes suddenly swells, and overflowing its banks oc- casions considerable damage. There arc four stone bridges over it in the parish. It is stated by the Rev. Dr Barclay in a former account of the parish of Haddington, (Transactions of Antiquaries of Scotland, Vol. i. page 46,) on the authority of Fordun, lib. xiv. c 21, " That on Christmas eve 1358, there happened a most extraordi- nary inundation. The rivers swollen by excessive rains, rose above their banks and swept away many villages, houses, and bridges, and many persons lost their lives whilst endeavouring to save their pro- perty, — not only cattle but tall oaks and other large trees were torn up by the roots and carried off to' the sea. Sheaves of corn were HADDINGTON. 3 carried off the adjacent fields, from whence it appears that the har- vest that year must have been remarkably late. As it approached the Abbey of Haddington, a nun snatched up the statue of the Virgin, and threatened to throw it into the water, unless Mary protected her Abbey from inundation. At that moment the river retired," says Bowmaker, (the continuatorof Fordun,) "and gradu- ally subsided within its limits." On consulting, however, GoodalPs edition of Fordun's Scotichronicon the words are " In vigilia nati- vitatis nostrcB DomincBi'* (not nostri Domini, as some must have read or imagined,) that is, the 7th of September, the nativity of the Virgin Mary being the 8th of that month. In Hearne's edition of Fordun, Vol. iv. p. 1053, the words are, " In vigilia nativitatis beatae virginis." The harvest that year, therefore, was not late. It is probable that Dr Barclay proceeded on the high authority of Lord Hailes, who mentions it in his Annals among the miscellaneous and memorable occurrences of that year. It appears by our MSS. histories, that upon the festival of St Ninian, 1421, the waters, by constant rains, swelled to such a height, that there were a great many houses entirely defaced in the town, and the people went into the church in a boat, so that the Sacristy, with their fine library and ornaments for divine service, were greatly damaged, ( Spottiswood's Account of Religious Houses in Scotland, p. 274.) A similar flood happened on the 4th October 1775, which was 350 years after. The Tyne then rose seventeen feet above its level in less than an hour, and inundated more than half the town in its vicinity. This sudden swell is supposed to have been owing to the bursting of a water-spout to the southward above Gifford, as there was not much rain to the north or in the neighbourhood. As this happened during the day, mercifully no lives were lost Geology, — There are few sections, natural or artificial, in the pa- rish, from which one can ascertain the disposition and direction of the strata. The rock of which the Garleton range of hill is com- posed appears to be a secondary trap, approaching to what is cal- led clinkstone, contemporaneous with North Berwick Law and Trap- rain, the two principal heights in the neighbourhood. Heavy spar is found near the west end of the hills. In the lower grounds is sandstone of different colour and quality. The alluvial matter in the bed of the river is the debris of secondary trap, with nodules of quartz. There are no mines in the parish. It appears from Aft ^^aasssss^^. 4 HADDINGTONSHIRE. records of the burgh, that attempts hjive been made at different times for 300 years back, to obtain coal from lands belonging to ' the town on the borders of Gladsmuir. In 18239 the attempt was renewed, and L. 1800 at least expended on the trial, but without success. The thinness of the coal seam did not repay the work and remunerate the proprietors. The onlv mineral spring in the parish is a weak chalybeate at Dobson's well, about half a mile west of the town of Haddington. The soil of the parish is various. In some places, towards Glads- muir, it is thin and of inferior quality : but in general it is good, and in a high state of cultivation. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices, — Haddington, as appears from the Civia quatuor Burgorum^ is a town of great antiquity ; but when it was erected into a royal burgh is uncertain — its ancient records having been destroyed by the inroads of the English, who several times burnt the town and laid it waste. Tliere is a charter ♦ amongst the public records, from James V., dated 1542; but the most an- cient charter in the records of the burgh is one from James VL, dated 13th January 1624, confirming all their ancient rights and privileges. Haddington is the tenth in the order of precedency among the royal burghs, and pays L. 1, 16s. in every L. 100 of their assessments. There are only two villages in the parish, and both inconsi- derable. Of the one, St Lawrence House, about a mile to the westward of the town of Haddington, there is neither record nor ^ tradition of any importance ; the other is the Abbey, somewhat more than a mile to the eastward. Here in 1178, Countess Ada of Northumberland, mother of Malcolm IV. and William the Lion, Kings of Scotland, founded and richly endowed a convent or priory of Cistertian nuns, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; and here on the 7th July 1548, the Parliament of Scotland was con- vened, and their consent obtained to the marriage of the young Queen Mary with the Dauphin, and her education at the court of France. Haddington was the first place in Scotland visited by cholera asphyxia in 1831. This pestilential disease, originating in the jungles of Hindostan about the year 1817, and progressing west- ward, after spreading death and destruction over a vast extent of territory, reached the eastern coast of Britain in summer or autumn * It is noticed as a demesne town of the Scottish King in the tvelflh centurj. 4 \ - HADDINGTON. 5 1831. From Sunderland and Newcastle, its next step was to Had- dington, passing over the intermediate country and populous towns of Berwick and Dunbar. As soon as its arrival was ascertained, a board of health was formed, and the most prompt measures were used for cleansing the streets and alleys of the town ; white- washing and fumigating infected or suspected houses, liberally distributing flannel clothing to the poorer classes, and amply sup- plying them daily with nourishing food from a soup-kitchen. A commodious hospital was found and fitted up to receive patients, and the medical faculty were in constant attendance. The num- ber of cases in all was 125, of which were, 50 men, 66 women, 1 boy, and 8 girls. Of these 57 died, (two or three of the cases hap- pened to be passing strangers who brought the disease with them.) It chiefly attacked the intemperate and dissipated in the humbler ranks, though others of better condition and habits, but of feeble constitution, fell victims to its violence. It reached Haddington on 17th December 1831, and entirely left the place on 22d February following. In one night there were 8 deaths. The expenses incur- red during these two months amounted to about L. 400, of which L. 150 were contributed from the county subscription fund, L. 112 by collections at the church doors, and the remainder by voluntary subscription. Seats of the Nobility and Gentry. — The landward part of the parish is studded and embellished with the family seats or mansions of the nobility and gentry; — Amisfield, on the south bank of Tyne, belonging to the Earl of Wemyss and March ; Stevenson, about half a-mile to the eastward, the seat of Sir John Gordon Sinclair, Bart. ; Lennoxlove, anciently Lethington, about a mile to the south of Haddington, the seat of Lord Blantyre.* Part of this latter mansion is very ancient, having been built by the GifTords. The square tower, it is believed, is not surpassed in strength and height by any fortalice in Scotland. Lethington was long the chief residence of the Lauderdale family. Sir Richard Maitland, and Secretary Maitland lived here, and John Duke of Lauderdale was born, and spent most of his days in same place.f A little to the * The chx&nge of name was made by Alexander Lord Blantyre in honour of, and gratitude to hb relation and munificent beneiactress* Frances Duchess of Lennox and Richmond, who, by a large bequest, enabled him to purchase it. She was a lady of great beauty and accomplishments, and so passionately admired by Charles II. that he sought to honour her by having her person represented on the coinage under the emblematic figure of Britannia, -)- 'J he first park wall, enclosing an extent of surface somewhat more than a mile square, was built by the Duke of Lauderdale (in the space, it is said, of six weeks,) in consequence of a sarcastic remark of the Duke of York— intimatw^ >\vax^\jRSssi^ 6 HADDINGTONSHIRE. east IS Monkrigg, the elegant new mansion of the H(mourable Oip- tain Keith, R. N. To the south, again, and within view of LemKn^ love is Coalston, the seat of the family of Brown, the most cient family in the parish, now possessed by its amiable and cellent representative, the Countess of Dalhousie. On the north of the Tyne, and west of the town of Haddington, are the estates and Houses of Clerkington, belonging to Colonel Robert Houston r Letham, the property of Sir Thomas Hepburn, Bart ; Aldenton^ that of Robert Stewart, Esq. M. P. ; and Huntington, of WiUiani Ainslie, Esq. Eminent Men. — It appears that Haddington was at one time a royal residence, and that Alexander IL was bom there in the year 1 198. But it is much more distinguished as the birth-place of the illustrious Scotch Reformer, John Knox. He was bom in the Gifford- gait, adjoining to the town, in 1505, and afterwards educated at the grammar-school of the burgh. Some writers, misled probably 1^ the name of the Gifibrd-gait, or way that leads to Gifford, have said, ^^ that he was bom at Gifford, near Haddington." But» in the first place, immemorial, unopposed, unchallenged tradition has fixed this suburb of Haddington on the old Gifford road, as the place of his nativity, and the site of the house is still sho^m ; and next, though Gifford, as a barony^ has existed and been known by that appellation since Hugh de Gifford settled in East Lothian under David L, and received from William the Lion the manor of Yester ; yet there is reason to believe that Gifford, as a viUagej did not exist in the time of the Reformer, nor for more than a century afterwards. Indeed the present village of Gifford is comparatively of modern origin ; owing its rise and locality chiefly to the removal of the ancient church of Bothans from the vicinity of the mansion house of Yester to its present site, about the beginning of the eight* eenth century. Previous to this period, tradition speaks only of a single house there, Giffard-hc^^ which, in the colloquial parlance of the country, is still applied to designate the village.* his first risit to this part of the island, he heard there was not so much as a park in SeotUmd. The wall was twelve feet in height, but many years ago, was reduced to seven. At this place the excellent imedes of apples called Lethingtons were first oul- tivated, having been brought from France about the middle of the sixteenth century. * The following extracts from the records of the town-ooundl of Haddington, which extend as &r back as 6th March 1424, are illustrative of the antiquities of the burgh and of those olden timr . as to edticaHaiu ** October 6, 1559, The council thought it expedient to fee Mr Robert Dormont to be skoillmaister of the burgh, with 24 merka in thfl VASir. niiviihl« nff* flio oAmmnn cnule r *fl Allmvcwi finr * ilk frvorti limra* 1€M. use and wont was. The council to find Mr Dormont * ane chalmer and skoilUhouse in the year, payable off the common gude; and allowed fiir* ilk town bdm* 12d. lOOl-' termly of school-house fee, and 4d. termlv from the parents or fnends of the bairn as use and wont was. The council to find Mr Dormont / ane chalmer and skoilUhouse main fre.**" In February 1569^ is a contract between the town and Thomas Cvmyn HADDINGTON. 7 The talented and noble family of Maitland became connected with this parish so early as towards the end of the fourteenth cen- schoolmastcr, by which he binds and obliges himself" to leur all and sundry the bairnis of the inhabitants of the same burgh dihgently in grammatik letters, in Latyn toung and moralie vertues at his possibilities shewing himself by good life, honest behayiour and conversation, example to others, as well as in his instruction and doctrine, as God will give him grace, and at his possibih'tie during all the days of his lifetime— that he should receive 70 merks yearly and iiij. shillings money in the year, at iiii. terms. Bel- tane, Lammas, Candlcmass, and Hallowmass ; ilk term x^d. of ilk bairn he learns and instructs of the inhabitants of the burgh of skolaige silver alanerlie.** In 1579, Mr John Ker is feed as schoolmaster after the same tenor with Mr Cumyn. ** To receive threescore pounds yearly as stipend ; and uptake for ilk bairn, 4s. money of stipend yearly at four terms and to have a doctor under him, to have his meat of ilk faoim, and 4d. termly as above-mentioned.** It appears that the offices of schoolmaster and minister were sometimes conjoined in the same individual. From the minutes of 14th December 1669, it appears that previously the school hod convened every day by six in the morning, both summer and winter, but the council for the health and welfare of the children fix that from Hallowmas to Candle- mas, in time coming the school shall only convene by nine in the morning. Ttie MtHtstera of Haddington, — In 1531, Sir James Mauchlyne is mentioned as curate of the kirk of Haddington, Sir Thomas Mauchlyne as Lady Priest, there, and Sir Patrick Mauchlyne, Count kirk master in the same — It may be observed that the title Sir was not fbrmerly peculiar to knights; it was also given to priests, and sometimes to inferior personages. Dr Johnson thinks this title was applied to such as had taken the degree of A. B. in the universities who are styled domini, Sirs, to distinguish them from the M. A.'s who are styled magutri, masters, — Percy's Reli- ques. Vol. 1. Mr Patrick Cockburn, son to Cockbum of Langton, was the first Protestant minis- ter settled at Haddington after the Reformation. Having, when young, entered into holy orders, he went over to the university of Paris, where he taught the Oriental languages with great applause. On returning home he embraced the reformed re- ligion, and officiated as minister of Haddington till his death in 1568. Dempster characterizes him as the most learned and moderate of all the Scotch reformers. On 31 St March 1570, the council ordained John Ayton, Provost, and Barnard Thom- son, bailie, to pass to Edinburgh to mein to the session for a minister — that is apply to the session to obtain a minister. On Idth April same year, the council ordained the Provost and << ane othair honest man with him** to pass to the Assembly of Edin- burgh, at midsummer next to get an answer to the giving of a minister to the town. —June 14th. To speik hie kirk for obtaining a minister and his stipend.-— 25 August, the council ordained John Douglas, bailie, to pass to Edinburffh, to convoy ihe xfli- nister, Mr James Carmichael, to the burgh against Sunday next, 1571. — 1572, January 10. The council authorized the treasurer to deliver to Mr James Carmichael, mi- nister, X. merks, to pay his ** cbalmer mail!" for one year from Martinmass in the year of God 1571 years alanerlie. From the presbytery records it appears that the cure of the churches of Haddington, St Martin's in the Nungate, and Athelstaneford were served by Mr James Carmichael from 1592 to 1602. Mr George Grier was ordain- ed minister of St Martin's church in 1602. Mr Carmichael was also schoolmaster, for which he received forty pounds (Scots) yearly. But May 28th 1574 the provost, bailies, and council, with advice of the deacons, stated and ordained, that in no time coming the minister of the kirk should be admitted schoolmaster of the burgh. — 1588, December 9th, An act was passed respecting a manse for the minister. The highest stipend of the reformed clergy was L. 600 Scots; the fourth minister of Edinburgh luui only L. 60, being little more than L. 5 Sterling — 1572-73, February 28. The council conducit Mr Walter M*Canquell (Balcanquell) to read the common prayers in the kirk at vii. hours before noon in summer, and viii. hours in winter, and that on Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday, and to be clerk in the session and doctor in the school — the council agreeing to pay to said reader 50 merks in the year. Member* of Parliameni, 20 November 1579. The council authorized the trea- surer to pay to James Cockburn his expenses at the parliament, extending to xxiii. days; and to William Brown xiii.days; and to John Thomson xxiiii. days, each day 5s. money. On 5th October 1669, John Hay of Baro, was elected commissioner to the Par- A HADDINGTONSHIRE. tury by the purchase of Lethiugton, which was afterwards their chief residence. Sir Richard Maitland of Lethington, bom in 1496 and died 1586, aged 90 years, was a man of distinguished ment and abilities. He was many years a Lord of Session and Lord Privj'-Seal. Two small volumes of his poems have been pub- lished by Mr Pinkerton. The eldest son, William, was secretary of state during the reign of Mary Queen of Scots. The character and fate of this accomplished statesman are well known. All his brothers were men of uncommon merit and talents, and, like him-* self, reflect a lustre on the place of their nativity. John, the se- cretary's next brother, rose to the highest offices and honours in the state, being advanced to the dignity of Lord High Chancellor of Scotland, which he held till his death, dd October 1595. In 1590, he was created Lord Maitland of Thirlestane.* Thomas, the youngest brother of the Secretary and Chancellor, was high- ly accomplished as a scholar and gentleman. He is one of the CoUoqutors in Buchanan's celebrated dialogue, " De jure regni apud Scotos." Some of his Latin poems published by Scotstarvet are extremely elegant. John Earl of Lauderdale, son and heir of the Chancellor, was a nobleman of the greatest worth.f liamcnt, and allowed (is. Hd. per day for his expenses. The allowance (5th Julj 16B1 ) to Provost Cockburn and his man for each da.y%* attendance in Parliament was L. 5 Scots. On 24th September IG98, the large sum of L. 236, 2s. Scots was voted as commis- sion fees to the Parliament in July, August, and September last, so that the practice of paying members continued till the period of the Union. Before the Revolution every parent was obliged, under a penalty, to have his child baptized by the Established clergyman, and registered. At present few Dis- senters register the names of their children. It appears from the records of the town- council, that the pett, after making fearful ravages in Edinburgh, travelled eastward ; for it is stated (20tli September 1580,) that the weekly market was suspended, and all travel to or from Edinburgh, Leith, or other suspected places was interdicted by the magistrates, under severe pains and penalties. In 1244, the town, composed chiefly of wooden buildings, according to the custom of the times, was totally consumed by fire. That this hapjicned not by accident, but by wilful design, seems evident, as in the same night Stirling, Roxburgh, Lanark, Perth, Rbrfar, Montrose, and Aberdeen shared the same fate. In 1598, almost the whole town was again consumed by fire, owing, it is said, to the carelessness of a maid-servant. Ever since this calamity, a curfew goes through the town at eight o'clock at night during the winter months, when, af\er tolling a bell, a crier repeats a few rude rhymes, alluding to the misfortune, and warning the inhabitants to great- er caution in future. I'his is called " coal and can*]e.'* * There is a most su])erb and costly monument of the chancellor and his lady in the aisle of the church of Haddington, belonging to the Lauderdale family, 24 feet in length, 18 feet in width, and 18 feet high. There are two compartments supported by three black marble pillars, 5 feet high each, with capitals of white alabaster of tho Corinthian order, arched above. In the western compartment are figures of Lord Thirlestane and his lady at full lengthy in white alabaster, close to each other, in a re- cumbent i>osture. i* In the cast compartment of the marble monument referred to in the aible of tho church of Haddington, are figures of the Earl and his Countess, similar to those of in HADDINGTON. 9 III. — Population. By census 1801 the population of the parish amounted to - - 4049 1810, 4870 1821, 5255 1831, 5883 Residing in the town and Nungatc, ... 3751 in villages, ..... 106 in the country, .... 2026 Persons under 15 years of age, - • 2351 or |- between 15 and 30, ... 1506 or | 30 and 50, - . . 1202 or j- '50 and 70, - - - 673 or ^ upwards of 70, - - - 151 or ^V deaf and dumb, ... 2 blind, . - _ « 2 lunatic, - - . . ] • fatuous and imbecile, ... 3 Number of families in the parish, ..... 1045* Average number of marriages in the five years preceding 1833, - 41 of births during the same period, . - 96i*| of deaths for the last seven years, . . 87 Proportion of males and females in 1830, 43 sons, and 43 daughters. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres cultivated, ... 9312 never in cultivation, . . 250 capable of being cultivated with a profitable application of capital, . . 357 under wood, ... 1250 in undivided common, - * - Hushandry. — The farms are considerable in size, and the rent is generally paid in grain, at the medium or second fiars of the county. Since the former Statistical Account was drawn up, various and important improvements have taken place in the husbandry of the parish, in a more complete drainage of the soil, the rota- tion of crops, the culture given to the land, the introduction of new species of manure, and of farm implements. Drainage is now both better understood and more extensively practised than at the period referred to. Drains formerly were not made of such depth as to render them efficient. Now they are executed with that at- tention to the nature of the soil which renders them permanently subservient to its amelioration. The rotation of crops was then generally of a scourging nature, as it is called, being for the most part a succession of culmiferous grains, without a due mixture of the leguminous. The land, therefore, was then much less pro- the Chancellor and bis lady. The famous John Duke of Lauderdale, eldest son and heir of the Earl, was bom at Lethington, 26th May 1616. The leaden coffin which contains hb body, and a vase enclosing his bowels, are deposited in a vault in the aisle of the church of Haddington. * Stated in the abstract of returns to Government, 1831, at 1308. 1 HADDINGTONSHIRE. ductive than it is now, when the succulent plants are more exten- sively cultivated, and pasturage more frequently introduoed ; fbr besides its renovating influence on the productiveness of the eartlit the farmer is thus enabled to carry on the operations of his turn at less expense, while it is believed an equal, if not a greater quan* tity of corn is produced than when nearly the whole (arm k kept in tillage. New manures have also been recently introduced) as rape and bone dust, to render the soil more prolific. The former has been successfully applied to clay soils, and the latter to those of a light description. The implements of husbandry have likewise been progressively improved, and a greater variety introduced into farm management Tenantry. — Though the tenantry are remarkable for their intelligence and cultivation — their superior domestic acconuno- daition — and style of living, it may safely be affirmed that in no profession has so little profit of late years been realised from an equal outlay of capital, as in that of the agriculturist, chiefly ow- ing to the high rent of land. Though no expensive course of edu- cation be required in order to attain sufficient skill to conduct the diversified operations of the farm, yet the capital necessary to an advantageous outset has doubled if not tripled within the last forty years. And then the prices of com during the ]ate continentsi war, having risen to an exorbitant height, fanners felt encouraged to ofier a higher rent than the decreased price of com produce has since enabled them to pay, without trenching on their capitaL Several landed proprietors, however, convinced of the necessity of a reduction, have made considerable abatements of rent, and others have consented to an interchange of the terms and conditions of the lease ; substituting a com rent, regulated by the medium fiars of the county, instead of the stipulated sum of money formerly paid. Farm-Servants. — The parish of Haddington being agricultural, • form-servants constitute a considerable proportion of the popula- tion. Being commonly paid in farm produce, and allowed to keep a cow, they are generally considered to be in a more comfortable and thriving condition than any other description of labourers or even than common tradesmen whose wages are paid in money. Farm- servants are mostly married men, and their wages are paid in kind, viz. 9 quarters of oats, — ^2$ quarters of barley, and 1 quarter of pease or beans; a cow kept for them during the year; 750 yards of good well-manured land to crop with potatoes, and one pound or guinea in lieu of about 540 yards of ground which was former- HADDINGTON. 11 ly allowed on which to raise flax for family use. The cottage rent is commonly paid by the wife of the cottager giving twenty days reaping in harvest, or paying the wages of a reaper, which may average between L. 1, and L. 1, 10s. ; for which sum, besides his house, he has a garden attached worth ds. or 10s., and his fuel carried free of expense ; so that what he receives with the cottage is of more value than the shearer's wages. Women and children receive from 6d. to lOd. a-day, according to their ability, but in harvest their wages are regulated by the market. Oatmeal and potatoes form a considerable proportion of the diet of farm-ser- vants. They also use mixed bread, and keep a pig to consume the offal and refuse of the garden. Though in general acquainted with the elementary branches of education — as reading, writing, and arithmetic-r-and amply provided with the means of information in most departments of knowledge, by having access to libraries, parochial and itinerating, they are not much given to reading, nor remarkable for their attainments in general information. Indeed, persons so early at work in the morn- ing, and occupied with the labours of the field through the day, can have little leisure or in general inclination for literary pursuits, when they return to their cottage in the evening, exhausted and weary. Besides, they want the excitement of conversation and discus- sion from frequent intercourse, which give so much interest and impulse to the working-classes in manufacturing districts. In all their cottages, however, is commonly to be found a family Bible ; the catechetical formularies of our church, and some approved po- pular works in Theology. As the farmers have as few inefficient persons on their premises as possible, their servants when old or infirm, either pass the re- mainder of their days with some member of their family, — for in ge- neral they have numerous families, — or they retire to some neigh- bouring village or town, and take such work as they may still feel themselves equal to. Produce. — The average amount and value of gross produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Produce of grain, being white crop 'grown on (say) 4800 Scots acres, L. 8 per acre L. 38,400 Potatoes and turnips, 850 Soots acres, at L. 7 per acre, . 5,950 Beans and pease, 525 do. at L. 6 per acre, . . 3,150 215 Scots acres of hay, at L. 5 per acre, . . 1,075 1060 Scots acres in pasture, at L. 2, lOs. per acre, 2,650 Gardens and orchards, . . . 1,000 \^,^«L?lgi^ ^ ^ 1 2 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Fiars. — From time immemorial, it has been the practice of this county to fix, by public authority, the fiar or average prices of wheat, barley, oats, and pease, — these four species of graiu being the staple produce. For this purpose, the Sheriff, about the term of Candlemas, calls before him a considerable number of respectable tenants (fronoi different parts of the county,) and also extensive dealers in grain, who have bought and sold, delivered and received it within the county, from the separation of the preceding crop to the day on which the proof is taken. And having ascertained, upon oath, the price of considerable quantities of each of these four species of grain, he strikes one general average of the whole prices for each species, — next finds the quantity or number of bolls that have fetch- ed a price higher than the general average, and strikes a second average of this quantity. He then finds the quantity that has been sold at a price below his first general average, and strikes a third average also of this quantity. To each of these averages he adds two and a-half per cent., and these three averages, with that addi- tion, form the first, the second, and third fiar prices for the year. The late Sir George B. Hepburn, Bart, took pains to ascertain the reason of two and a-half per cent, being added to the fiar ave- rages, and found that the record of fiars goes as far back as 1627, — that it was some time the practice to strike the fiars twice in the year, at the terms of Candlemas and I^ammas, — that on examin- ing the fiars for twenty-six years, during which they were struck at Candlemas and Lammas, and taking the average of both, which seems to be the fair medium price, it turned out, in point of fact, that the Candlemas, with the addition of two and a-half per cent., was somewhat below the above medium of the double fiars. Candle- mas, on several obvious considerations, is too early a period to take the average price for the whole year, — Whitsunday seems preferable. It may also be stated, that the present mode of striking the fiars has received the sanction of the Supreme Court. On 8th March 1771, the Lords gave judgment, finding, " that the rules by which the Sheriff proceeded seemed well qualified for fixing the price of vic- tual with the greatest accuracy." V. — Parochial Economy. Town of Haddiiigton, — The town of Haddington is pleasantly situated at the foot of the Garleton range of hills on the north, and bounded by the Tyne on the east, which divides it from the popu- lous suburb of Nungate, to which, however, it is joined by a bridge of four arches. The town consists principally of two paral- HADDINGTON. 13 lei streets, running east and west, and a long cross street which bounds one of these and intersects the other nearly at right angles. The high or main parallel street, which is a continuation of the road from Edinburgh, is spacious, and the houses in general regu- lar and handsome. The appearance of the town has of late been greatly improved by the erection of a lofty spire to the town-house, 150 feet in height, by side pavement on the streets^ and gas lights, and by county buildings on a large and elegant scale, for the better accommodation of the Sheriff's court, meetings of the county, and suitable apartments for the public records. The approaches to the town from the west and east are orna- mented by a number of beautiful villas with gardens and nursery grounds adjoining. The church is a venerable Gothic fabric, 210 feet in length, supposed to be of the thirteenth or fourteenth century. Fordun styles it Lucema LaudonitB^ the lamp of Lothian, on account of the beauty of its structure, and because, being lighted at night, it was visible at a great distance. The quire and transept are now in a somewhat dilapidated state ; but the square tower which surmounts the building, and is ninety feet high, is entire. The west- ern part of the cross has been lately fitted up in a superior style, and is used as the parish church. The municipal affairs of the burgh are now managed by a council of twenty-five persons, elected according to the provisions of the Burgh Reform Act, by a constituency of 174, at present qualified to elect, the greater part of whom are also qualified to hold ofiice. The magistrates consist of a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and dean of guild. The council annually elect a baron bailie over the adjoining village of Nungate, and also one over their dependencies in Gladsmuir, consisting of lands mostly feued from the town. There are nine incorporated trades, having exclusive right to ex- ercise their several crafts within the burgh. The funds of the burgh arise from land, mills, feus, customs, and amount to about L. 1400 a-year. Haddington joins with Jedburgh, Dunbar, Lauder, and North Berwick, in electing a Member of Parliament. There are no manufactures in town, but there are two breweries and two distilleries in the vicinity ; an iron forge and coach-work ; a considerable trade in wool, in tanning and currying leather, in preparing bones and rape cake for manure, and in supplying the 1 14 HADDINOTONSUIBE. neighbouring country And villages with such goods and aitidef of merchandize as they may require. The fairs have gone into desuetude, but there is a good weekly market on Friday, when the several kinds of grain are exposed to sale in bulk for ready money. It is perhaps the laigest wheat market in Scotland. The county courts are held here by the Sheriff every Thuraday during session, and a small debt court every alternate Thursdi^. A Justice of Peace Court also is held on the first Tuesday in every month, except March, May, and August, in which months die court is held on the first Thursday. Ecclesiastical State.* — Haddington is a Presbytery seat, and die meetings of that body are usually held in it The parish church is collegiate. Both ministers have manses and glebes, and of late both stipends have been made nearly equal ; the first chaige hev*' ing eight chalders of barley, eight chalders of oats, and three chalders of wheat, with 1m 10 for communion elements; and the second seventeen chalders of victual, with L. 33, 6s. 8d. money from the town, with L. 10 for communion elements. Besides the Established church there is an Episcopal chapel, a congregation of Old Light Seceders ; two meeting-houses of the United Secession, and an Independent and a Methodist chapeL From the centrical situation of the town, these meetingsdraw a consi- derable proportion of their members from the neighbouring parish- es ; and not a few in the town and its vicinity, warmly attached to the Establishment, are forced from the parish church, through mere want of accommodation, there being seating only for 11299 to a population of nearly 6000. The number of families in the * In the suburb of Nungate ore Uie ruins of St Martin's Chapel, which belonged to the Abbey of Haddington. It appears from the records of the Presbytery of Had- dington, which are extant as far back as a. d. 1592, that the cure of the churehea of Haddington, St Martin's, and Athelstaneford, were served by one clergyman, Mr James Carmichael, from 15&2 to ld02» and prcbehlj for serenu years preceding that period. In 1602, Mr George Grier was ordained minister of St Martin's. He aeems to haTe had no successor. It is bdiered that his chapel was suffered to go into deeiT as St Mary's (the present parish church) was then sufficienUy large to contain both congregations. An Episcopal yisitation was held 16th September 1635, when it was agreed» in, presence of the Bishop of E^nburgh, the Magistrates of Haddinston, and aeraral of the heritors, that a second minister was necessary to the kirk of Haddington, and the year following Mr William Trent was collated to that charge. His stipend con- sisted of L. 600 Soots, all paid by the town out of the revenues of the burgh. The patrona^ of the second charge was claimed by the town ; but. after a suit at law, it was decided in fiivour of the £arl of Haddington, then proprietor of the barony of Byres in the parish, and patron of the first ^rge. There is a fiunous though un- successful pleading of Sir George Biackemde in support of the town's ri^t, pub- lished by him in his q>ecimen ** EloquentisB Forensis Scotiie." 8 HADDINGTON. 15 parish attending the Established church is 8d0; of families at- tending the chapels of Dissenters or Seceders, 186 ; of families attending the Episcopal chapel, 26 ; of Roman Catholic families, 3. Educatioiu — Besides a grammar school for classical learning, a school for English reading, writing, arithmetic, and geography, with a department for mathematics appointed and endowed by the burgh, there is a parochial school supported by the landward he- ritors at the maximum salary. Fees may amount to L. 50 per annum. English reading, 2s. 6d. a quarter, writing do. 3s. 6d., arithmetic, 4s. 6d. The proportion of those who learn reading alone is two-thirds. The class books in use at present are Mr Wood's, and the Scriptures alternately. There are also several schools taught by private individuals. Under the head of education it may be mentioned that there are several Sabbath schools taught by the elders of the Establish- ed church ; each taking charge, as far as practicable, of the young in his own allotted district of the parish. Mechanics Institution. — A mechanics School of Arts was com- menced here so early as 1823, in which lectures in chemistry, in several branches of mechanics, and in physical, moral, and eco- nomic science, have been delivered. The institution is provided with a suitable apparatus, museum, and library. Tyneside Games. — These games, consisting of various gymnastic exercises, as running, leaping, wrestling, &c. &c. have been cele- brated these two years past in Amisfield Park, amid a great con- course of spectators, and under the patronage of the neighbouring noblemen and gentlemen. Societies. — Many societies hold their regular meetings here, as the Agricultural, Horticultural, and the Ancient fraternity of gar- deners of East Lothian. There are also societies for extending the knowledge and influence of religion over the world, as the East Lothian Bible Society, and the Society for Propagating Christianity, with their auxiliaries of a penny a-week, and a Juvenile society of Id. a-week. Various benevolent Societies have been instituted, and are in operation for the aid and relief of sick or indigent members. Late« ly, a Mutual Assurance society has been formed, on the best prin- ciples of calculation, embracing, Ist, a Sickness fund for granting weekly payments during sickness ; 2dly, a deferred Annuity fund for afibrding allowances to members for life after completing sixty 16 HADDINGTONSHIRE. years of age ; 3r%, a Life Assurance fund for affording a sum on the death of members. A Female Society has been for a long time in use, to visit aod afford pecuniary relief to the sick and aged poor, and to minister to their instniction and comfort, by reading the Scriptures, and giv- ing them suitable tracts. There is also a Dispensary for supplying flannel clothing, wine^ and porter, as cases certified by a medical attendant require, ac^ cording to the number or amount of subscriptions of 10s. 6d. or- dered by the subscriber. Poor and Parochial Funds, — Paupers are maintained by legal as- sessment on the valued rent of the landward heritors ; the town of Haddington paying a stipulated proportion out of its own funds or patrimony. Besides weekly collections at the church doors, which, now that an assessment is established, do little more than pay the salaries of the session-clerk, precentor, beadles, and other inci- dents, — the session have L. 300 of mortified money under their management, for behoof of the poor. The late David Gourlay, Esq. bequeathed a field of four acres, with L. 450, and L. 840, ds. 2d. stock, the rent and interest of which he directed to be applied by the parochiiil ministers, as they might deem fit, to aid the industrious poor ; but by no means to relieve the heritors from their legal obligations. The average amount of church collections for the poor is between L. 50 and L. 60 a-year ; — of assessments, about L. 800 ; of legacies, L. 300. Banks, — There are two banks, — branches of the Bank of Scot- land and of the British Linen Company. Savings Bank, — In 1815 a savings bank was established. Those who avail themselves of the benefit of this institution are general- ly mechanics, day-labourers, and serAants. At last settlement with the treasurer in March 1833, there were 133 depositors, and about L. 1000 in deposit. The amount yearly invested is L. 205 : withdrawn, L. 175. Libraries, — There are several valuable libraries worthy of notice, as the Presbytery library for the use of that Reverend body ; a gift from a society of pious individuals in London more than a century ago ; a library bequeathed to the town of Haddington, by the Rev. John Gray, Episcopal minister at Aberlady, with 50 merks a year, to add to it from time to time by the purchase of new books ; a Parish library established from the funds of the late Mr Andrew Begbie, farmer in Barneymains, and a respectable member of session ; a HADDINGTON. 17 Subscription Library, containing about 1000 volumes. Hadding- ton is also the head quarters of Samuel Brown, Esq.'s Itinerating Libraries:* whence they set out and whither they return. * As the introduction of itinerating libraries is a new and cheap means of diffus- ing useful knowledge, especially among those in the humbler walks of life, — and as it appears, from authentic printed reports and memoirs, that much good has already been done by this mode of circulating information, it seems proper to insert a letter from the worthy and benevolent author of the institution (at present chief magistrate of Haddington) to the writer, giving a general view of the origin, progress, and pre- sent state of these institutions : — R£v. AND Drar Sir, HaddUigton^ 5th May 1835. I began the plan of itinerating libraries in East Lothian in 1817, with five divisions of 50 volumes each, and there are now (1835) under my superintendence in this coun- ty, forty -three divisions of 50 volumes, besides about 450 volumes of new and agricul- tural books for the use of the annual subscribers of 5s. ; in all 2600 volumes. The new books are kept at Haddington, Dunbar, and North Berwick, for a few years for the use of subscribers to the above amount, and are afterwards arranged into divisions of 50 volumes, and stationed in the towns and villages of the county for two years, when they are removed and exchanged. The regular removal and supply of new di- visions has excited and kept up such a disposition to read, that in several stations dur- ing the winter months, scarcely a volume is left in the book-case. To persons ac- quainted with the issues from the usual settled libraries of 2600 volumes, and of eighteen years standing, the following statement will appear almost incredible. The issues (by a calculation I made in 1830) of the new books at Haddington to the sub- scribers have been nearly eight and a-half times for every volume. The gratuitous issues at Haddington have been seven and a- half times every volume ; at Gifibrd, Salton, Aberlady, North Berwick, Belhaven, and Spott, they have been seven times every volume ; and the issues of the whole establishment, so far as reported, have been on an average five times every volume. In all cases the librarians give their services gratuitously. Until 1831 , the books were lent gratuitously, the new except- ed ; but the readers made voluntary contributions at the greater number of the sta- tions. In that year the plan was so far altered, that one penny was required for the use of a volume during the first year a library was in the station ; and during the se- cond the books were lent gratuitously. This alteration has considerably increased the funds, while the gratuitous reading during the second year is training the young to a taste for reading. In 1831, with the assistance of the Scottish Missionary So- ciety and several West India proprietors, I sent four divisions to Jamaica, to be un- der the direction of the missionaries of that society. In 1831 and 1834, I received from a few friends of the plan about L. 400, to promote the introduction of libraries into certain specified districts, and 1 have since sent to various parts of Scotland, £ng« land, Ireland, Jamaica, Canada, South Africa, St Petersburgh, ninety divisions con- taining 4500 volumes. They were furnished at cost prices, and to some districts at half the cost price, and those sent to Ireland still lower. They were placed under the superintendence of gentlemen or ladies in the different districts. In 1826, a society was formed in Edinburgh for establishing itinerating libraries in Mid-I^othian, but its exertions had been greatly neutralized by deaths amongst its original members, and various other circumstances. Last year I agreed with the committee to take the superintendence of their libraries, and in Edinburgh, Leith, and the vicinity, there are now twenty-one divisions, besides stations for new books at Buccleuch Place, and Hill Street Academies, and the Young Ladies Seminary, George Street. As I am convinced that the plan is calculated to be extensively useful at a small expense, 1 will be always happy to give any information in my power on the subject to any person who may wish it. 1 am, your\s sincerely, (Signed) Samuxl Brown. To Rev. Dr Lorimer. HADDINGTON. B PARISH OF PRESTONKIRK. PRESBYTERY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JAMES THOMSON, MINISTER. THE REV. JOHN THOMSON, ASSISTANT & SUCCESSOR. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of this parish was originally, and so early as the twelfth century, Linton, — the name still given to the principal village in the parish, which appears to have been so called from a lynn or waterfall in the river Tyne, at the place where the village is situated. This continued to be its principal name till the Re- formation ; but before that period it was also known by the name of the Halch or Haugh, from the circumstance of the church being situated near a haugh on the banks of the Tyne ; hence it was af- terwards called Prcstonhaugh ; and at a later period it received its present name of Prestonkirk. It is still designated " Prcston- haugh, otherwise called Prestonkirk," in Presentations and other legal writings. Extent and Boundaries. — Its extent is about 4 miles from east to west, and about 7 miles from north to south ; and it consists of about 15 square miles. It is of an irregular figure, stretching out for 2^ miles into a narrow stripe of land to the northward, which is detached from the rest of the parish. It is bounded on the west by the parishes of Haddington and Athelstaneford ; on the north by Dirleton and North Berwick; on the east by Whitekirk and Dunbar ; on the south by Stenton, Whittingham, and Moreham. Topographical Appearances. — The surface is a little varied, but there are no hills or valleys of any considerable extent with the ex- ception of Traprain-Law, a hill situated towards the south boundary of the parish. The extent of this hill is about40 Scotch acres, and it affords excellent pasturage for sheep, but is too steep and precipi- tous for cattle. On the south side it is very nearly perpendicular. A little to the north of this hill is a curious irregular valley of con- siderable depth, and very narrow, in the bottom of which runs a very small rivulet. This valley is considered the most fertile part PRESTONKIRK. 19 of the farm in which it is situated, except near the river, where there are some rocks. The parish is remarkable for the healthiness of its inhabitants, having seldom been visited by any epidemic disorder. Hydrography. — The only river in the parish is the Tyne, run- ning from west to east, and dividing the parish nearly in the centre. It has its rise ten miles above Haddington, and falls into the sea about three miles north-west from Dunbar. The course is little varied, except at the village of Linton, where it falls over a con- siderable height of claystone rocks, forming the lynn from which the village derives its name. These rocks are mentioned in the former Statistical Account as supposed to obstruct the progress of salmon up the river. Since that period, a passage has been open- ed for them, but without the desired effect, few or no fish having ever been found farther up, while the levelling of the rocks has materially hurt the beauty of the waterfall, which is indeed entire- ly destroyed, except' in the time of a flood. Geology and Mineralogy. — In this parish there are only three species of rocks found, — uncovered claystone, clinkstone, and lime- stone. Of these, by far the most widely diffused is claystone. It occurs in an obscurely basaltic form at many difierent places in the parish, as, on the Smeaton estate, and on the Phantassie estate, to the westward of the village of Linton ; it also forms the lynn above-* mentioned. It is of a dark purplish brown colour, often porphy- ritic, containing crystals of felspar, and in general deeply impreg- nated with iron. The rock next in the frequency of its occurrence is clinkstone. This forms the whole of Traprain-Law, and of the rocks which are quarried close by the turnpike road at Pencraig, about a mile and a quarter to the west of Linton. Its structure is slaty, with seams running across the slates dividing it into imper- fect columns. Its colour is generally a light mottled brown, sometimes porphyritic. At one part of Traprain-Law it has a bluish gray tint, greatly resembling greenstone, to which rock it also shows an approach at the summit, where it contains grains of hornblende. At Pencraig it contains veins of a yellow jasper, sus- ceptible of a good polish, and also veins of heavy spar : in this it resembles the clinkstone of the Garleton hills, a few miles to the westward. Limestone occurs along the ridge extending eastward from Traprain-Law ; its colour is mostly a brownish red, and it contains a great quantity of flinty matter disposed in veins. Its strata are nearly horizontal, and are covered with a deep formation 20 HADDINGTONSHIRE. of »i calcfireous marl, which is sometimes employed for agricultural purposes instead of lime. These three rocks are the only ones occurring in this parish, — j)robahly partly traversing and partly resting on the red sandstone, which forms the regular strata of the district, resting on the transition rocks of I^ammermoor, and covered by the coal formation of Mid- Lothian. The soil of the parish is, for the most part, near the river, of a sandy or gravelly nature. To the north of this it becomes gra- dually of a stronger nature, till it ends in a very stiff clay; and, far- ther north iigain it becomes lighter. To the south it is calcareous.* Zoology. — Under this head, it may be mentioned that our birds of prey are, for the most part, confined to the kestril (Falco tinnun^ cuius), the ringtail (F, cyaneus), and the sparrowhawk (JF. ni«t»), and two species of owls. We have no grouse of any kind, but partridges and pheasants are numerous. In severe winters the Bohemian chatterer (Garrulus Bohemicus) has once or twice been seen. The kingfisher once frequented the river, but is now ex- tinct. Perhaps the sand martin {Hirundo riparia) is more numerous than in most places. In autumn various sea birds, as the gull ge- nus, particularly XheLarus canus, and the cormorant and duck tribe, visit us. The latter, especially the common wild duck and the widgeon, frequent the mouth of the river in flocks of many hundreds every winter. Herons are common, and breed in the neighbour- ing parish of Whitekirk. The Tyne contains very large trout, eels, flounders, and a good many small salmon, with several minute species. From our in- land situation, our invertebrate animals are almost wholly confined to insects. Concerning these there is little particularly worthy of notice. The Death's- Head Sphinx (Sphinx atropos) was found very frequently in 1825 in the pupa state in potato fields. The Puss Moth (Cerura vinula) is also common. The damage done to wheat crops of late years by the Cecidomyia triiia\ or wheat-fly, is well known. The Stomoxys calcitrans, or common stinging-fly, which in hot weather persecutes men and beasts with its painful bite, is more numerous in this district than in most parts of Scotland. Botany. — Owing to the highly cultivated state of this district, it affords a still less interesting field to the botanist than to the zoologist There are no natural woods in the parish, but a good * It may here be remarked, that the geognostical descriptive language used bj the authors of the Statistical lieports is that introduced many years ago by Proressor Jameson, and which now, notwithstanding the violent opposition it met with, is uni- versally adopted by British geologists. PRESTONRIRK. 21 many very fine trees, particularly near the church, and the vil- lage of Preston. There are no rare plants, unless the following: Geranium sanguineum^ Arenaria rermz, Viola ItUea, Dianthtis deU toidesj Sedum Telephium^ which grow on Traprain-Law ; the Py- rola minor^ and Hypericum ptdchrum^ occur on Smeaton grounds. IL — Civil History.' Eminent Men. — Two of the most eminent agriculturists of East Lothian lived and died in this parish, viz. George Rennie, Esq. of Phantassie, and Robert Brown, Esq. tenant of Markle. The for- mer died in 1828, the latter in 1831. Both have long been ce- lebrated for their exertions in the improvement of the husbandry of this country. — The late John Rennie, Esq. long an eminent engineer in London, and brother to George Rennie, Esq. was also born and brought up in this parish. — Mr Andrew Meikle, the in- ventor of the thrashing machine, lived for a considerable time, and died here. Though his claims as the inventor of the thrashing machine have been disputed, there can be no doubt that he brought , the machine to its present state of perfection, by inventing the fixed beaters or skutchers now in universal use, and from want of which all previous inventions had proved useless. A tombstone erected to his memory in the churchyard of Prestonkirk testifies this fact. Ldrnd-owners. — There are six principal heritors, — the Trustees • of the late George Rennie of Phantassie; Miss Dalrymple of Hailes ; the Earl of Wemyss ; Sir Alexander Hope ; Sir David Kinloch ; and Sir Thomas Buchan Hepburn, and four smaller pro- prietors. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers began in 1663, and are complete, — that is, none of the volumes are wanting ; but the number of names registered varies at difierent periods. Of late years almost every birth in the parish has been regularly entered. Antiquities. — There is muentioned \n the Saxon annals a place of worship under the name of Ecc S. Baldridi, which stood on the site of the present church so far back as 1000 years ago. The principal ruin in the parish is Hailes Castle, famous for once hav- ing been the temporary residence of Queen Mary when carried off by the Earl of Bothwell, then possessor of the castle. It is now rapidly going to decay, though part of it is still used as a granary. It is now the property of Miss Dalrymple of Hailes. The only pother ruin in the parish is an old religious house on the farm of Markle, the property of Sir David Kinloch of Gilmerton. It ap- pears that a monastery was early established here, and continued till the Reformation ; but it is testi^ed in the Parliamentary ^t^^-^^^^^^^ 22 HADDINGTONSHIRE. that, in 160G, a considerable part of the land originally belonging to the monastery was resumed by the Crown, and annexed to the Chapel Royal of Stirling. That the whole lands were not resumed is manifest, because the park in which the ruin is situated, and an- other adjoining to it, still called the Provost's Park, have for more than a century and a half belonged to the proprietors of the barony ( See Farmers' Magazine for March 1811.) Verj' little is known about this religious establishment, but from the present state of the building, which is very ruinous, it seems to have been of consider- able extent, but of very rude workmanship. There are several rude stones of considerable height erected in different parts of the county, seemingly intended to mark the burial places of some chief or officer who had fallen in battle, one of which exists in the pa- rish, a little to the west of the village of Linton. Tombs, or stone coffins, have been found by the ploughmen in several places, mark- ing the site of a field of battle. Modern Buildiru/s. — Smeaton House, the residence of Sir Tho- mas Hepburn, is the only mansion house in the parish. There is indeed one at Beanston, belonging to the Earl of Wemyss, but it has been uninhabited for several years, and will soqh be in ruins. There are in the parish four oatmeal and barley mills, one flour mill, one exclusively for barley, and one connected with a distillery. The distillery employs 50 men, is capable of distilling 500,000 gallons per annum, and pays L. 112,000 of duty. HI. — Population. In 1755, the amount of the population was 1318 i792, . . was only, 1176 1811, .... 1471 1821, . . . 1812 1831, . , , 1765 The causes of the diminution which has taken place since 1821 are probably these ; 1*^, In some farms where new leases have been granted in that period, several old houses have been pulled down which were not required to afford labourers for the farms, while in some instances two or more farms have been united, and con- sequently the number of inhabitants diminished. 2^, In 1821, there was an academy kept by the Dissenting clergyman, which has since been given up, causing a diminution of twelve or fifteen. ' .The {K>pulation in the village and the country part of the parish is agfoBftiw; Village of Linton, 715 Preston, 48 Country part, 1002 Total, - 176.) PRESTONKIRK. 23 The yearly average for the last seven years of births, ... SS of deaths, - . 23 of marriages, . 15 The average number of persons under 15 years of age, - - 720 betwixt 15 and 90, ... 451 betwixt 30 and 50, - - - 368 betwixt 50 and 70, ... 186 upwards of 70, - - - 50 The number of unmarried men upwards of 50 years of age, • 32 women upwards of 45, of whom 44 ore widows, 80 The average number of persons in each family nearly* . . 5 The number of insane persons, .... 8 of blind, - - • - 3 of deaf and dumb, - • - 2 The number of &milies in the parish, - .... . 407 chiefly employed in agriculturet - - 291 in trade, maniUkcture, or handicraft, 85 There is only one family of independent fortune at present re- siding in the parish, viz. Sir Thomas Hepburn of Smeaton. The number of proprietors of land worth upwards of L, 50 yearly is six or seven. Character of the People. — The farm-servants in East Lothian enjoy the comforts of society in a greater degree than persons in the same rank of life in any other part of the country. They are, for the most part, allowed a cow's grass and potato land, and have an opportunity of keeping a pig, and, in some instances, poultry, which enables them to keep their families in a state of comfort su- perior to that of most of the labouring classes elsewhere, and they are in general quite contented with their situation and circumstances. But work of all kinds is more difficult to be had than formerly, which sometimes presses hard upon those who are employed upon days' wages. They are in general exemplary in their moral cha- racter, there being no instance within the memory of the writer of this of any person connected with the parish having been con- victed of any crime before the Justiciary Court. They are in general attentive enough to the outward duties of religion, though it must be confessed there is far less of the knowledge and the spirit of it than is to be desired and is to be found in some other districts : but there is no reason to mark any late declension in this respect ; perhaps rather, an improvement is gradually taking place. IV. — Industry, Agriculture. — The number of acres in the parish, Imperial measure, is ^ - « ' 6270 The number of acres constantly in pasture, about • .'.:'« 200 There is no land capable of being cultivated which has not been * The number of children is 2 2-3ds. 24 HADDINfiTONSHIRE. SO. There is no natural wood, and the extent of land under plant- ed wood is very limited. Rent of Land.-The average rent of arable land is about L. 2, 28. per Scotch acre. There is no pasture ever let at so much per ox ; but the average rent is from L. 3 to L. 5 per Scotch acre. Live-StocL — The breed of cattle to which most attention is now paid is the short-horned, introduced into East Lothian about ten years ago by Mr John Kennie Junior, of Phantassie. The Lei- cester and Cheviot breeds of sheep are principally propagated, but many of the black-faced species also are yearly fattened on turnips. Husbandry. — The general character of husbandry pursued is of the most improved kind. Turnips are cultivated to a considerable extent in drills, and consumed on the ground by sheep, and a por^ tion of them by cattle in the straw yard. Drilled white crops are also common upon dry soils. The usual rotation of crops is either, Yst^ oats ; 2^, beans ; «3^/, wheat ; 4M, fallow x)r turnips ; 5/A, wheat or barley ; 6^A, grass ; or Ist^ oats; 2(/, turnips ; 3c/, wheat sown in spring, or barley ; 4/A, grass. The last rotation is only used on light soils. Tlie peculiar features of the agriculture in this parish and county, are, \stj The early ploughing of stubble in winter. 2^/, The tho- rough eradication of weeds, and pulverizing of the soil in fallow or before the sowing of turnips. 3^, The careful extraction of annual weeds from amongst the growing corn ; and lastly, never in ordinary circumstances having two white crops in succession. The only im- provement which can be suggested would be to have the land long- er in grass, and to sow wheat less frequently. But the high rents render the former of these impracticable for tenants. The latter is, however, frequently adopted. There is no waste land in the parish capable of cultivation. Draining is carried on to a great extent Irrigation has never been practised. Bruised bones, rape dust, and other manures, not the produce of the farm, are now more or less used by almost every farmer. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. There are still two liferent leases in this parish, which have proved highly detrimental to the interest of the landlord, without communicating any corresponding advantage to. the tenant. The state of farm buildings is, with a few exceptions, good. A considerable improvement has taken place both in them, and in en- closures of late years. Steam-engines have been erected on three farms in the parish, for the purpose of driving thrashing machines. 4^00 1200 4500 250 .33450 "o PRE&TONKIRK. 25 The first, which was erected seven years ago, is a low pressure ; and the other two are high pressure ones. The principal improvements since the date of the last Statisti- cal Account are the cultivation of a large extent of common, and the much better state in which the roads are now kept. Fisheries. — There is a small salmon fishing in the river Tyne, but the part connected with the parish is so insignificant as to ren- der it not worth mentioning. The greater number are caught at the mouth of the river, in the parish of Whitekirk. It is rented, however, by a person residing in this parish ; but it is generally believed to be scarcely sufficient to pay any rent, as it is attended with considerable labour, and expense of time. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish is computed to be nearly as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds, wheat, oats, barley, beans, - L. 23000 Potatoes, turnips, mangel wurzel, &c. Hay, . .... Land in pasture, at from L. 3 to L 5. per acre Scotch, Gardens and orchards, .... Total yearly value of raw produce. Rental, L. 10500. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — There is a post-office at Linton, where letters are delivered from Edinburgh every day, and the mail to Edinburgh from London passes daily. The great Lon- don road passes through the middle of the parish ; its extent is four miles ; on which at present five public fsMches travel daily, — the London mail, one stage coach to London, one to Berwick-upon- Tweed, and two to Dunbar, all from Edinburgh. There is only one ^dge, which is over the river Tyne, in the line of the great n road) near the village of Linton ; it is in good repair, but rrow, and awkwardly situated for carriages. lesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church is upon whole convenient. It is only half a-mile from the eastern ex- imity of the parish, but it is at an equal distance from the other tremities ; its greatest distance from any part being from three to {bur miles. It was built in 1770, and enlarged in 1824 to the ex- tent of 200 sittings. The whole number which it can contain now is about 800. The whole of the sittings were originally free, and divided among the heritors ; thus excluding all the inhabitants of the village, which constitutes nearly one-half of the population. But the heritors agreed to give up so many sittings for the use of the villagers, fifty of which are let for the sum of Is. each per 26 HADDINGTONSHIRE. annum, which goes to the poors' funds. The manse was biiilt in 1795, and has never been repaired. The glebe, including garden and site of the manse and offices, consists of about 8 Scotch acres ; it may be computed to be of the value of L. 5 per acre. The whole stipend is 18 chalders, with the usual allowance for com- munion elements. There is one Dissenting chapel in the parish, in connection with the United Associate Synod, the minister of which is paid from funds arising from the seat rents and collections among the members of the congregation. His stipend is L. 90. There is no Episcopalian chapel in the parish. The number of famihes attending; the Established church is 360. The number at- tending the meeting-house, belonging to this parish, is 47. Divine service in good weather is well attended in both places of wor- ship. The average number of communicants in the Established church is 610. There is no society for religious purposes at pre- sent connected with this parish alone, but there are collections in the church annually for different relicrious and charitable institu- tions, which amount on an average to L. 15. Education. — Total number of schools in the parish, 5 ; paro- chial schools, 2; one of which is a female school upheld by the heritors. Private unendowed schools, 2, of which one is female; subscription school, 1. In the parish and subscription schools all the ordinary branches are taught, in the private male school the learned languages are not taught. Besides the above-men- tioned scliools, there was another female school, in which the higher branches of female education were taught; but the numbers attending it were very limited. The salary of the parochial school- master is the maximum ; that of the parochial schoolmistress is L. 3, with a house and school-room ; the school fees of the for- mer amount to L.40 per annum; the amount of the school fees of the private schoolmaster will be nearly the same ; the master of the subscription school has a salary of L. 40, and a free school- house. The parochial schoolmaster has all the legal accommoda- tions. There is a regulation made by the heritors of this parish, that no hind (or farm-servant) shall pay more than 10s. per quarter, whatever number of children he may have attending the school. The present parish schoolmaster was also bound by the heritors when they granted the last augmentation of his salary, to keep an assist- ant, who must be approved of by the minister and heritors. All persons in the parish of a proper age can read, and, excepting PRESTONKIRK. 27 perhaps a few old people, all can write. The attendance of the young at school, however, is irregular, — as they are withdrawn at certain seasons of the year, when their labour is required in the fields, and accordingly their education is not so perfect as it should be. The schools are all in the village of Linton, from which there is no part of the parish so distant as to prevent attendance upon the schools. Libraries. — There is one subscription library in the parish and a branch of the East- Lothian itinerating libraries. Charitable Institutions. — There are three Friendly Societies in the parish, one of very old standing and nearly inefficient, consist- ing of very few members ; one is a yearly society, to which the members pay 6d. per week, from which a certain sum is paid out in case of sickness, according to circumstances, and the balance is divided at the end of the year ; the other is not well regulated, and does not seem likely to endure for any length of time. Savings Banks. — There was once one in the parish, but it was given up, because it did not answer the purpose for which it was intended ; those who had their money in it being solely from among a description of people who were able to put their money in ordinary banks, and who availed themselves of the saving bank merely on account of the higher rate of interest given in it. The farm-servants, receiving their wages in victual, and consequently having little money in their hands, renders saving banks of com- paratively little use in this county. The nearest is in Haddington. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 32, receiving the average sum of 5s. each per month, or L. 3 per year ; none receive more than 8s. per month, except in cases of lunacy. There is an annual assessment of about L. 120 ; the amount of church collections is only L. 15 yearly. There are some instances of a disposition among the poor to re- frain from seeking parochial relief as long as they can. But in no instance are the session the first movers in placing any one on the poors' roll, and there are few who are fit applicants who do not apply ; at the same time, instances of persons applying who are not entitled are very rare, and we have a few noble instances of aged and infirm persons supporting themselves upon the savings of their youth, even after bringing up large families. One old woman died last winter up- wards of eighty years of age, who was left a widow with two daugh- ters in early life, who lived comfortably, and never applied to the session or received aid of any kind. Injis and Alehouses. — There is only one house entitled to the 28 HADDINGTONSHIRE. appellation of an inn in Linton ; besides which there are nine ale- houses in Linton, and one in Preston. Their very mischievous effect on the morals of the people, especially of young unmarried men, cannot be questioned. FueL — The fuel universally used is coals, and whatever brush- wood csence from his charge; it being understood that, after the term of Whitsunday, he was to resign his charge ; and this he did at a meeting of Px^&Vs>jV.«t'^\v(^^ ^x Athebtaneford, 7th June 1757. % 4"^ HADDINGTONSIURK. during bis lifetime, and he died suddenly, when pursuing his usual ^ exercise, having just completed the seventieth year of his age. His dust rests with that of his ancestors in Athelstaneford church-yard, where a marble monument is erected to his memory. " By simpli- fying the comforts of life, he rose to private independence," as one has said of him, and left considerable property to his relatives. For some years before his death, he kept a riding-horse, and lived more in the style of a country gentleman than of an artist. About that time his professional labours did not exceed one likeness in the twelvemonths, and its price was one hundred guineas. The time and labour he bestowed on his likenesses were great beyond what can be expressed. Had he painted for gain, he might have left a large fortune ; but his great object in painting seemed ta be to please his own fine taste. Parochial Jlcr/isters. — The parochial registers of this parish have been kept correctly since the beginning of last century, and are generally written in a fair hand. The register before 1688 is imperfect. The record of the Presbytery of Haddington com- mences at the first establishment of Presbytery after the period of the Reformation, is entire, and appears to have been correctly kept. Modern Buildings, — The only modem building of large dimen- sion in this parish is the mansion house of Sir David Kinloch, Ba- ronet, of Gilmerton. An old baronial mansion of large extent stands in this parish, formerly the residence of the Earls of Winton. Part of it is still inhabited, but the greater part is in ruins. It had been built in the form of a square : an excellent garden and fine bowling green are attached. The house had been defended by a strong wall, and on the north side also by a deep moat. George Earl of Winton in large gilt letters is still legible in the ceiling of the principal room. Ancient Families, — Of the ancient families of distinction in Elast Lothian, whose ancestors swore fealty to Edward I. of England at Berwick a. d. 1296, there does not appear to be any now existing, and in possession of the lands they then held, except Brown of Colestone, the Ijist branch of which family is the Right Honourable Christian Brown, Countess of Dalhousie. It is perhaps not unworthy of notice, that the lands of East For- ton, after passing into various families, are again in the possession ofalincaldesceudant of the renowned Sir Simon Frazer of Peebles- shire, whose eldest dauorliter was married to the ancestor of the ATHELSTANEFORD. 49 Marquis of Tweeddale, and brought with her a large accession of property. The present proprietor of the estate of East Forton, Sir Francis Walker Drummond of Hawthornden, Bart., being a lineal descendant of the noble house of Tweeddale, has the blood of Sir Simon Frazer flowing in his veins. Antiquities. — When the road-man was opening a new quarry three years ago for metal to the roads, in the spot where Athel- stan is said to have been buried, he and his men being engaged re- moving the stratum of earth which covered the rock, found a stone coffin containing the remains of a human body in a very decayed state. Part of the cranium was not decomposed ; a considerable part of the under jaw remained, and the enamel on the teeth was surprisingly white, considering the length of time the body had been buried. The coffin was but two and a-half feet below the surface. It was formed of five handsome freestones,— one at each side of the body, one at the head, another at the feet, placed at right angles, and one for a covering. The stones forming the coffin had been cemented together with a fine paste made apparently of clay, to prevent the admission of the external air. A cavity had been cut in the surface of the hard rock, six feet two inches in length, thirty inches in breadth, and four in depth, in which the body had been laid, and where it was foimd« The stones that formed the coffin rested on the sides of the cavity on a bed of fine clay. Nothing was found in the coffin but what has been stated. An intelligent mason examined the stones, and was of the opinion that no free- stone of the same quality as that which formed the coffin has hitherto been found nearer to Athelstaneford than at the distance of eight miles. The under jaw and coffin of the warrior are in the posses- sion of Sir David Kinloch, the proprietor of the estate of Athel- staneford. History records that the lands on which the battle of Athelstane- ford was fought and won, were given by the King of the Scots to the Culdee Priory of St Andrews, as an acknowledgment of gra- titude to Heaven for the victory obtained. At the Reformation, when monkish institutions were abolished in Scotland, these iands were conferred on the Chapel Royal of Holyroodhouse, witib which they are still connected, and form a considerable part of fStSsi income drawn by tbe present dean or deans of that venerable &tae. The late Sir David Kinloch^ Bart of Gilmerton, obtained from the Crown a perpetual lease of these lands at the fo\W^Yw^T^^s>x.\ — wheat, 46 bolls, Linlithgow measure ^WxVe^^ bW*^*?* ^JsXXftS^^'?*^ HilDD/NGTON. I> * 50 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 85 bolls ditto. Kain fowls : 1 dozen of bens, 2 dozen of poultry or cbickens. Tbe rent is doubled toi^ one year at every singular succession of the family of Kinloch of Gilmerton. On the barony of Drem are the remains of a Pictish town, si- tuated on the top of a low hill, of a conical form, which is almost level on the summit, and which contains about two acres of land. The houses, the foundations of which are still obvious, had been built round the sides of the summit in regular rows, and the greater part in a conical form. In the centre are the foundations of ob- long houses of larger dimensions. The conical houses are gene- rally twelve feet in diameter within the walls. The town had been strongly fortified, — first by a deep circumvallation, and higher up the sides of the hill by three ramparts quite perpendicular ; from the top of the one rampart to the bottom of the higher there is a level space of eighteen feet, from whence the inhabitants could defend themselves with great advantage from their assailants. On the west side of the hill, looking towards Edinburgh, are three deep trenches in succession, before coming to the first circumvallation. These out-works appear to have been raised on account of a small Roman station in that direction, about half a-mile from the Pictish town ; for several Roman implements have been found there, and two years ago a large urn of superior workmanship, containing cal- cined bones, was found in the same spot. The name of the farm- stead is commonly called Captain- Head, which is evidently a cor- ruption for Camptown Head. The urn is in the possession of Mr David Skirving, farmer, of Camptown Head. The lands belong to the Earl of Hopetoun. 1 1 1. — Population . The population of this parish amounted at last census to 931 ; at present it amounts to 951. Of these, twelve are Dissenters, but during the last thirty years the number of Dissenters have sel- dom exceeded one for every hundred of the inhabitants. The na- tive inhabitants of the parish are sober, industrious, and well be- haved : The strangers amongst us are less so, with some excep* tions. The number of families in the parish is . . . 212 chiefly employed in agriculture^ . . J 92 in trade, manufacture^ or handicraft^ 46 There is but one family of independent fortune resident in this parish, and the whole lands belong to the following persons of dis- tinction. Sir David Kinloch, Bart. 18 ploughgates ; Earl of Hope- toun, 1 3 ditto; Earl of Wemyss, 7 ditto; Sir Francis W. Drummond, / ATHELSTANEFORD. 5 1 Bart of Hawthorndeu, 1 1 ditto ; Sir Alexander Hope, 6 ditto ; Lord Elibank, 3 ditto ; Miss Grant of Congalton, 2 ditto. IV. — Industry. Agriculture,' — This parish consists of somewhat more than 4000 acres, 3750 of which are arable. The remainder is planted with wood, except 40 acres of hill pasturage. The writer of this account has not been able to ascertain the value of the whole agricultural produce of this parish ; but he can state that the quantity of wheat produced in it annually is about 4000 quarters. V. — Parochial Economy. _ J Ecclesiastical State. — The old church of Athelstaneford was / built about the middle of the twelfth century by Ada, daughter of the Earl of Warenne and Surrey, and wife of Henry Prince of Scotland. She built and endowed an Abbey in the neighbour- hood of Haddington, and gave the church of Athelstaneford to that religious establishment, to be served by its monks. She survived her husband twenty-six years, and like her father-in-law. King David I., left various proofs of her attachment to the church. She died, according to Lord Hailes, a. d. 1178, and in the 13th year of the reign of her son William, surnamed the Lion.* The church she built here, part of which is still standing, continued the parish church until the year 1780, when a more suitable one was built It is not inconveniently situated for the inhabitants, and con- tains about 500 sittings. The manse was built about the same time, and affords sufficient accommodation for the minister's family. The glebe land consists of five acres, and is worth L. 15 per annum. The stipend is fifteen chalders of victual, consisting of 116 bolls of barley, 116 bolls of oats, and 8 bolls of wheat, Linlithgow mea- sure, payable according to the highest fiar prices of this county. When the present minister obtained an augmentation of his sti- pend a number of years ago, he asked of the Court a larger pro- portion of wheat, that being the kind of grain chiefly raised in this parish, and as there is a considerable portion of tithe wheat still unappropriated; but the Judges, with the exception of the late Lord Meadowbank, refused to grant the request. The minister receives also an annuity of L. 1, 8s. left by the late Mrs Hepburn of Monk Rig, who died about 180 years ago. When the last Statistical Account of this parish was published, • The barony of Athelstaneford was part of Ada's dowcnj U.^^^.. 02 11ADDIN(>T0NSH1RE. tli<; iiuii)l>er of l)is>cnter5 is stated to have been thirty-four. Dis- -i'nt«.T«. arc not iiiimerous within the bounds of this Presbytery, ex- cept ill those parishes where the inhabitants cannot 6nd accommo- dation in the parochial churches. The people in general are re- guhir ill their attendance on Divine ordinances, and decent in their deportment. The number of communicants is about 385, and sometimes 400. Kdncation, — There are three schools in this parish. The pa- rochial school is in the village of Athelstaneford, and the school- master has received a hberal education. The branches taught at this school are English, writing, arithmetic, geography, and the Lat in and PVcncii languages. The schoolmaster's salarj' is the maxi- mum ; he is well accommodated with a house and garden, and the school room is one of the best within the county. The school fees are fixed at a low rate, and the number of scholars during winter and spring are between eighty and ninety, and they are in summer about seventy. Tiiere is another school in this village established by the heri- tors for girls, taught by a woman, who instructs them in the first principles of the English language, and in needle-work. The number of young i>ersons who attend this school is about twenty. Tlie Earls of Hopctoun have, for more than a century past, established a school on their lands in this parish, at which the common branches of education are taught. The schoolmaster has about L. 10 of salary, and a house and garden ; and the number of his scholars is genendly thirty-five in summer, and sixty during the winter. In all these schools the principles of the Christian religion are carefully attended to. Lord Hopetoun's schoolmaster has been wont to keep a Sunday school in that part of the parish where he is settled, and a school of the same kind is kept in the village of Athelstaneford. The people of this parish give their children the common branches of education taught at the parochial school ; and although there be an influx of strangers at everj' Whitsuntide, yet the mi- nister is not aware of any in this parish above six years old but have been taught to read. The kirk-session pay for the education of oq)hans, and a benevolent lady who resides in this parish pays for the education of those whose parents are in mean circumstances. Libraries. — A parochial library was established here about thirty years ago; and the people are also well supplied with Mr Samuel ATHELSTANEFORD. 53 Brown's Itinerating libraries, presently consisting of 2600 volumes, in forty three divisions, each division remaining a year at one sta* tion, so that there is no want of books to thein who are disposed to read. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There never had been any assess- ment for the ordinary poor of this parish until a few months ago. The receipt of money from the weekly collections at the church doors, what is received for the use of a hearse, under the manage- ment of the kirk-session, and for mortcloths, have, with some sav- ings previous to 1770, been adequate to supply the wants of the parochial poor. The people are regular in attending the church, and liberal, according to their circumstances, in giving to the poor ; and it is for these reasons chiefly, that assessments for the support of the poor had not been found necessary in this parish until 1835. The kirk-session disburse to the parochial poor about L. 130 an- nually. Thirty years ago, when the present incumbent was settled here, the number of poor on the roll was almost the same as at present, but the monthly allowance to each is about one-third more now than it was then. Miscellaneous Observations. At the time the last Statistical Account was published, the farms in this parish were too small, and a number of the farmers had not sufficient capital to carry on improvements. Grazing was not then practised to any considerable extent, and this prevented a proper rotation of crops. A large portion of the land was wet, and no proper means had been taken to lay it dry. The feeding of sheep and cattle on turnip was not then fiiuch practised, a great part of the land being unfit for that kind of crop. An improved mode of drainage has now greatly altered and ameliorated the soil ; so much so, that a large extent of land in this parish formerly unfit for tur- nips, now bears weighty crops of that valuable root The present farmers are intelligent and skilful in the line of their profession, and the far greater part of them are doing every thing that wisdom joined with prudence can suggest for the im- provement of their possessions. Nine-tenths of the land of this county being under entail, the improvements in agriculture which East Lothian exhibits, have arisen not so much from encourage- ment given by the landlords, as from the spirit and enterprise of the farmers. Drainage, however, when well executed, being deemed a permanent improvement, many of the landlords now show a readiness to bear a fair proportion of the exijense qC ^-^ 54 HADDINGTONSHIRE. undertaking. Drainage, which ought to be one of the first im- provements in agriculture, is now the crowning work in that de- partment in this district of the country ; and whilst it does honour to the proprietors and possessors of the soil, it is, as has been ob- served, diffusing an increase of health and comfort among the in- habitants. The working classes in this parish are sober and industrious, and generally well behaved ; they are lodged in comfortable houses, and their gains are equal to the maintenance of themselves and the edu- cation of their children. They are generally well qualified to per- form the kind of work they undertake, and the male part display con- siderable knowledge and skill in rural affairs. To these topics, however, their knowledge is in a great measure confined. On the subjects of sacred history and religion their knowledge is very li- mited, particularly those of them who are somewhat advanced in years, and this ignorance arises from the want of religious instruc- tion in youth. But the younger part of this class of the popula- tion is better educated and more intelligent than the aged, and the rising generation promises progressive improvement. This change is to be ascribed to a better educated and more efficient class of parochial teachers. It has been often found that a marked diffe- rence exists between the inhabitants of those parishes where the clergymen visit and catechise their parishioners annually, and where the youth have the benefit of Sunday schools, and the people of other parishes, where these advantages are not enjoyed. An in- telligent, moral, and religious population, is an objecfso pleasing to a rightly constituted mind, and so advantageous to the interests of all, that it may well excite the ministers of the Gospel and in- structors of youth, to increased diligence in their vocations, as they must be aware that their perseverance will be followed with the happiest results. . May 1835. PARISH OF STENTON. PRESBYTERY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. D. LOGAN, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of the parish is of Saxon derivation; it was originally Stanton, Scotic^ Stanetoun. The parish was supposed by some to have been so called from parts of the adjacent lands abounding in small stones, but more- likely from the proximity of an excellent freestone quarry, and the cottages in the village being built of that material, earlier than those in the surrounding neigh- bourhood. Extent. — The low and populous part of the parish extends to about 3^ miles from north to south, and to about 3 from east to west It is bounded on the north by parts of the parishes of Prestonkirk and Dunbar; on the east by Spott; and on the west by Whittingham, A portion formerly insulated from the rest stretches into the Lammermoor, to the distance of about 8 miles from the church, and is bounded on the south by the Whitewater, and Berwickshire. By the late division of the Dunbar common, however, and the allotment of portions thereof to the landed pro- prietors in the parish, the line to the southern extremity is now nearly unbroken, and this line includes Spartledown, the highest peak on the Lammermoor range, at the base of which on the south, points of the parishes of Spott, Cranshaws, Longformacus, and Whittingham, come so near to that of Stenton, that inhabitants of each parish might almost hold converse with one another from their respective parishes. The height of the parish above the level of the sea is about 180 - feet The climate is salubrious, and before the woods were pro- tected, Pressmennan, where there is still an old mansion once in- habited by a branch of the Beil family, used to be a place of resort to invalids for goat's whey. Instances of great longevity are not uncommon here. Within these few years, one person died having 5G HADDINGTONSHIRE. very nearly completed her hundredth year, and two considerably above 90 in the immediate neighbourhood. Hydrography. — Springs abound in many parts of the parish, and the water is generally very cool, and of the best quality. There is one near the village called the Rude-well, covered by a circular stone building, surmounted by the form of a cardinal's hat, and there is a legend that the tenure of the Beil estate depends upon the keeping on of this hat. Into a deep ravine there issues from the base of a high hill a most magnificent spring of the purest water. About the year 1819, William H. Nisbet, Esq. built a breast-work, on the east, where two opposing hills begin to slant down into more level ground. A most beautiful lake, about two miles in circumference, was here- by formed. Trout were brought from Lochleven, at considerable trouble and expense. The experiment succeeded, and along with tench and carp, they are now caught in abundance and great per- fection. As the hills surrounding the lake are undulating and finely wooded, the scenery has been compared to parts of the Rhine. A Mr Hamilton, cadet from the Belhaven family, and a Lord of Session, took the title of Lord Pressmennan, from this place. So attractive is the scenery in summer, that party excursions to sail on the lake, dine under the shady tree, and drink from the living spring, are frequent. Soils. — Clay, from the more stiff and tenacious to the loamy, predominates ; although there is also a considerable breadth of light turnip soil. The latter generally abounds with small stones. Botany, — Mr Street, gardener and florist at Beil, has naturaliz- ed or acclimatized the following exotics, which not only live but flourish on the Beil terraces : Coronilla valaitina, C. glauca. Cactus flagelUformisj C opuntia, C strictusj Mivmlus ylutijiosus, Coronilla juncea, Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax, Calla Ethiopica pro- ducing ripe seeds in pots, Eucomis striata.* Tliere is a cedar of Lebanon in the Beil grounds, one of the largest in Britain. It was brought in a flower-pot from London, by the anti-unionist Lord Belhaven, and planted about the begin- ning of the last century; girth 14 feet, height about 60 feet, expansion of branches from trunk 30 feet, drop from do. in cir- cumference about 200 feet. * Mr Street has not only been successful in his attempts to naturalize ciotics; but is also well known to liorticulturistSy as possessing very considerable science in his profi>ssion. STENTON. 57 11. — Civil History. Principal Land-oumers. — Mrs H. N. Ferguson of Dirleton and Belhaven is patron and proprietor of about nine-tenths of the pa- rish; J. B. Sydserff, Esq. of Ruchlaw, William Hay, Esq. of Hopes, and Sir J. Suttie, Bart, are also heritors. The Beil estate came into the Dirleton family by intermar- riage. Hence the Nisbets prefixed Hamilton to their name. Soon after the death of the late Mr Nisbet, Sir J. Nisbet of Dean re- signed all claim to the estate of Dirleton, and the two properties are therefore now united. The late Mr Nisbet, after the death of his mother Mrs Ha- milton, added greatly to the mansion-house at Beil, from a plan by Atkinson ; and extended the range along the face of the bank on which the building stands to about 500 feet. In a series of about seven years, nearly L. 40,000 were expended. The addi- tion harmonizes well with the ancient structure. There are three tiers of flower terraces to the south, which are always kept in the best style, and greatly admired, at the base of which flows a beau- tiful stream. In the interior there is a fine variety of marbles fit- ted up, as side tables, &c. ; also a few good pictures by the best masters. Altogether the mansion is one of the most splendid to be seen in any country. It is unique from the terraces ; and the correct taste of the late proprietors, Mr and Mrs H. Nisbet, every where discovers itself. As the old church was very incommodious, Mrs H. N. Ferguson with a liberality peculiar to herself, proposed to the other heri- tors to assess them at the rate only of L. 900 for a new church, — she giving a much larger sum if they would allow her to adopt that plan which she might prefer. This was readily agreed to. The design was by Bum, modem Gothic, with a magnificent tower; no galleries ; the pulpit in the centre, and the family seat opposite. There is accommodation for 400, about 70 more than the law re- quires. It cost above L. 2000 ; and was opened by Dr Chalmers, October 4, 1829. Parochial Registers. — These begin in 1669, and have been pret- ty regularly kept III. — Population. The population has varied very little from time immemorial. According to Dr Webster - - 681 y the former Statistical Account, 624 Ana what is very remarkable, a unit makes up the dilTerence of the three last census. 58 HADDINGTONSHIRE. 1811, - - - - 686 18-21, - - - 685 18:31, .... 686 Malt-s, ... - 320 Fcniulcs, - - - 366 The disparity in the number of males and females probably arises from a number of young men leaving the parish in search of employment ; and the young women remaining as outworkers, — in which occupation a good many single women, householders, are employed, who receive 9d. every day they are called upon to work, with 600 yards of potatoes planted, coals driven, &c. for their year- ly service. The number of fiimilics in the pmriKb is • - . 151 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 92 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft» 29 Average of baptisms about - - - - 14 marrin'^cs, - - - - - 6 deaths about - - - - - 12 Poaching in game is beginning to shew itself, from the strict system of preserving recently adopted by the surrounding landed proprietors. This, along with night watching in the game season, is not favourable to the improvement of morals. During the last three years there have been six illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. The population is purely agricultural, with only its proportional accompaniment of carpenters, masons, blacksmiths. Sec The coun- try weaver was formerly one of these accompaniments but he has now almost disappeared. About twelve years ago there were no less than nine in the parish, whereas now there are only two ; and were it not that spinning is given out at Beil to the old women, these two would not be half employed. This change in the do- mestic economy has operated injuriously on in-door industry, and is the cause why many a bride is unprovided with gear of this kind at the time when the nuptials are celebrated. icu Jture. — Under tilllage about wood about permanent pasture moor do. 2 KK) acres. 40() 500 unknown. Rent of Land and Produce, — Average rent per acre, 7 bushels wheat = 2537 quarters ; ditto at second fiars, wheat Lw 2, 9s. per quarter; rental of the parish, about L. 7105. It is calculated that of the portion of land under tillage one-half is annually in com. Average produce per acre, wheat 4 quarters ; 3 STENTON. 59 barley 6; oats 7^; beans 4; =an average of 4 quarters 3 bushels per acre. Produce, — Gross produce per annuiDy 5775 quarters, - - • L. 8072 10 Turnips, one-sixth of the whole that is under tillage, at L. 6 per acre, 2000 Grass do. pastured or made into hay, ... 2000 Gross annual produce, ..... L. 12072 10 This of the part only under tillage. Permanent and moor pasture, wood, &c. may yield in addition about 3000 L. 15072 10 Bate of Wages— Hindis Boll Oats, 12 old bolls. . L. 10 10 9 Barley, 8 do. . 3 14 3 Pease, 2 do. m 1 7 Cow kept. m . 6 Potatoes planted, 1200 yards, 2 12 In lieu of keeping hens, > 15 L.24 19 Day-labourers 9s, per week, bondagers, 4s. 6d. but not employ- ed every day, — only at call of the master. Husbandry. — Tyle draining, lately introduced, promises mate- rially to improve tenacious soils. Bruised bones and rape-dust render the distant farmer almost independent of dung as a manure. Cattle likewise at two years old are brought to the same perfection, with re- gard to weight and fat as formerly at three. Altogether a great im- petus has lately been given to agriculture in all its branches. Land- lords are too enlightened not to see it to be their interest to give every encouragement to the tenantry ; and Mrs. H. N. Ferguson takes the lead in all that is liberal. V. — Parochial Economy. Dunbar is the nearest market-town, distant about five miles. Villages. — Stenton and Petcox. The latter for ages gave the name to the parish. In olden times it was a rectory, and a Mr Cockburn, the rector, was the first Protestant minister of Hadding- ton. He does not seem to have been a zealous Protestant, how- ever; for in 1564 and 1565 he was complained offer absenting him- self from the General Assembly. In Bagimont's roll, the Rec- tory of Petcox is rated at L. 2, Ids. 4d. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands near the west boundary of the parish, and not very convenient for a part of the population. All the sittings are free. The manse was built in 1783, and re- paired in 1820, having been struck by lightning. The glebe is 1\ acres in extent. Rent 9 quarters wheat at second fiars. Sti- 60 HADDINGTONSHIRE. pend 17 chalders, half barley, half oats, excepting 8 bolls wheat Commuiiiou elements, Lw 8, 6s. Sd. About one -eighth of the inhabitants are Dissenters, who go to Dun- bar and East Linton. The collections for religious purposes may average about L. 10 annually. Education, — There is only one school in the parish, but all the children are within reach either of it or schools in the surrounding parishes. All are taught to read. Above one-sixth of the popu- lation are regularly receiving both week-day and Sabbath tuition. All the usual branches are taught. The salary is the maximum; the fees amount to about L. 40 per annum. Reading per quarter 2s. 6d. and other branches in proportion. Libraries, — There is one parish library and two itinerating. Friendly Society, — A friendly society has lately been instituted. Poor. — Average number who get regular assistance, 16 ; occa- sional ditto, 5 ; average annual allowance, L. 4, 5s. There has been an assessment for upwards of thirty years. It varies at pre* sent from L. 50 to L. 60 per annum. Collections and mortcloths, L. 21 ; interest on mortified money, L. 25. Precentor, beadle, &c. paid out of these funds. There is a growing disposition on the part of the poor to seek relief; aged parents wish to ease their children, and children to throw off parents. Still, however, there are many honourable exceptions. Alehouses, — There are two alehouses in the parish. Fuel — Coals rate very high; lid. percwt Carted from Pen- caitland and Penston, or sea carried to Dunbar. July 1835. PARISH OF WHITTINGHAM. PRESBYTERY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE, THE REV. JOHN LUMSDEN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Namey S^c, — The name of the parish is derived no doubt from the Saxon Whit-ting'ham, the dwelling on the White Mead. There are several places in England of the same name. The village and church of Whittingham stand upon the bank of a winding stream, which arises in the parish of Garvald, but is here called Whit- tingham W^ater. This parish formed two chapelries, which were subordinate to the church of Dunbar. The lower part of the pa- rish was served by the chapel of Wliittingham, and the higher part in Lammermoor was served by the chapel of Penshiel, and these two chapels formed two of the prebends of the collegiate church, when it was settled under that form in 1342. Extent, Boundaries, — This parish extends in length from north to south 11 miles, and its mean breadth from east to west 13 4 miles, and contains 44 square miles. It is bounded on the south- west by the parish of Garvald ; on the west by Moreham ; on the north by Prestonkirk ; on the east by Stenton ; and on the south by the parishes of Cranshaws and Longformacus, in Berwickshire. Topographical Appearances^ Sfc. — The figure of the parish is ir- regular. Its surface southward is varied and uneven, rising and falling gradually from the village to the foot of Stoneypath hill ; from the top of which there is an extensive prospect of the German ocean. Island of May, the Bass rock, the Frith of Forth, the coast of Fife, and almost all the lower part of East-Lothian, and part of Mid- Lo- thian. The village, which is but a small one, stands on an eleva- tion of about 360 feet above the level of the sea. The air is keen and the climate healthy, both in the lower part of the parish, and in that extensive tract of it among the Lammermoor hills. Hydrography. — There are several excellent springs of water in the parish ; and several salubrious streams run through both its lower and higher districts. Tlie Whittingham water rke?. vw \\n& 02 HADDINGTONSHIRE. parish of Garvald, and joining the Nunraw bum at the east extre- mity of that parish, flows in an easterly direction through a beautiful glen or valley, in a winding course, bending sometimes to the right bank and sometimes to the left bank, both of which are covered from the top to the bottom with the finest trees of various kinds. This streiun runs through a beautiful and romantic glen, by Beil, Bolton, West Barns, and falls into the sea at Belhaven. The Whittadder rises on the north-west point of the farm of Johns- clcuo^h, and flows from the white well southward about three miles, and joins Fasseney water at Millknow. Tliis last mentioned stream rises on the eastern part of Westhopc's fann, in the parish of Gar- vald. The Whittadder having received this addition at Mill- know, rolls on in a south-east direction, till it falls into the Tweed four miles above Berwick. Geology and Mineralogy. — In the parish of Whittingham there are several excellent quarries of red freestone, which have been wrought to great extent. The Fasseney water, in Lammermoor, will ever be a spot peculiarly interesting to the geologist, from the appearance which it presents. It is well known that the extensive range ofmountainous country called the Lammermoor hills extend across the whole island, from the east sea to the west. It consists of a series of transition rocks, especially greywackc. It is obvious, that, however high their situation is at present, they must have once been laid at the bottom of the sea, and must have been raised up to their present situation by some immense expansive power from below, and which not only gave their elevation but their inclination, which in the whole range is almost vertical. It is not improbable that this has been eftccted by a mass of granite under them. Granite, it is generally admitted, appears either in mass, or in veins from it. The granite here is in mass ; but, so far as I know, it has never been discovered, as thrusting its veins into the superincumbent schistus. The appearance that it makes here is equally interesting both to the Wernerian and the Huttonian, each maintaining that it affords a confinnation of their respective theories. The Wernerian holds that granite is of the oldest formation of rocks, supporting all others. The Huttonian, on the other hand, maintains that it is a rock va- rying in age, consequently alternating with Neptunian rocks of dif- ferent epochas. The Wernerian, of course, affirms that it owes its ori- gin to water, the Huttonian to subterranean heat. But its present elevation and inclination could not have been produced by water, but WHITTINGHAM. 63 by some igneous force below. And the point of difference here is, whether this granite is stratified or not; and Dr Hutton was of opi- nion that no granite is stratified, for if so, this he imagined would set aside his theory. His disciples, however, differ somewhat from their master in this. And his acute and learned illustrator, Mr Playfair, and the scientific Sir James Hall of Dunglass, admitted that granite was to be found stratified, or in masses of great size, with seams in it ; yet, if it might be called stratified, it was very different from other rocks having this name. The granite in Fasseney water has certainly some appearance of stratification, or of being divided by seams of considerable thick- ness. And Mr Playfair affirms, that, though it was not admitted by Dr Hutton in his theory, yet he was of opinion that it does not oppose that theory in the smallest degree. Geologists may examine and judge for themselves. Upon the banks of this stream iron and copper ore have been found ; a small piece of the former was presented to Dr Hope many years ago. The writer of this has a small specimen of each of them in his possession. n. — Civil History. The Earls of March held their Baronial Court at Whittingham. In 1363, Patrick Earl of March granted to Alexander de Riek- linton the half of the lands of Spot, which Sir Alexander Ramsay had resigned, " in plena curia nostra apud Whytingeham." In 1372, George Earl of March gave in marriage with his sister Agnes, to James Douglass of Dalkeith, the manor of Whittingham, with the patronage of the chapel, when Whittingham and Penshiel became a separate parish from Dunbar, which estate and patron- age the Douglasses of Dalkeith possessed about 190 years. In October 1564, Queen Mary granted to James Earl of Mor- ton, who represented the Douglasses of Dalkeith, all their estates, with the barony of Whittingham, the castle and mills, and also the advowson of the church of Whittingham, and the Queen's grant to that unworthy servant was ratified by Parliament the 19th day of April 1567.* The next historical event which here occurred respects the murderers of Darnley, King of Scotland. It appears from history that the scene of this dreadful treason was laid in the castle of Whittingham. Part of this ancient building is still inhabited. Morton had just returned home from England, where he had been expatriated for the murder of Rizzio, being now pardoned by the • Vide Caledonia. "♦ * 64 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Queen ; here he met the Earl of Bothwell to concert the murder of Darnley, during the first week of December 1566. Morton, being accused and tried for his share in the King's mur- der, was openly convicted by an impartial jury of his countrymen, and finished his guilty career on the scaffold, for the very deed of which he had unjustly accused his Queen, who had so often par- doned his crimes and loaded him with favours. The night before his execution, being examined by the ministers of Edinburgh, he with his dying breath confessed his guilt. It appears that Lethington, as well as Archibald Douglas, was present in Whittingham at the time referred to, persuading Mor- ton to take part with them in the King's murder. And no doubt remains that he yielded to their importunities * The Earl of Morton was forfeited in 1581; but James VL soon returned the traitor's estates to his family, which were pos- sessed by them for a considerable time, till at length the estate of Whittingham passed to more worthy proprietors. For ear- ly in the seventeenth centurj', Viscount Seton of Kingston, married the daughter of Sir Archibald Douglas, who succeeded her father as heiress of Whittingham, by whom he had eleven children, six sons and five daughters. Both Archibald, the second Viscount Kingston, and James, the third Viscount, having died without issue, the honours became extinct. The Honourable Lady Elizabeth Seton, the youngest of the family, having survived all the rest, became heiress of Whittingham. She was married to the Honourable William Hay of Drummelzier, second son of the first Earl of Tweeddale, in the year 1695, as appears from the parish register of marriages : and by this marriage came into the possession of the estate of Whittingham and Stoneypath Tower. They had a numerous and highly respectable family of sons and daughters. The Hays of Drummelzier were long the proprietors of Whittingham. They were accounted most excellent landlords, — were highly esteemed by their equals, — and revered and beloved by their tenants in every county where they had property. Their representatives still ret^n the same amiable character. This estate was sold in the year 1817, to James Balfour, Esq. second son of John Balfour, Esq. of Balbirnie. Land-oxcners. — The principal proprietors of this parish now are, James Balfour, Esq. of Whittingham and Papple, Lord Wemyss, • Vide Mortoirs confession, in Kicliard Bannatyne's continuation of Knox*s History, and in the Appendix to Crawford's Memoirs. 4 WHITTINGHAM. 65 the Marquis of Tweeddale, the Earl of Haddington, Captain Buchan Sydserff, of Ruchlaw, Andrew Houston, Esq. of May- shiel, Mrs H. Nisbet Ferguson of Beil, and Miss Dalrymple of Hailes. The two last mentioned have each but a small possession in the parish. James Balfour, Esq. the principal proprietor of this parish, has built a splendid mansion upon the south bank of the Whittingham water, of Grecian architecture, delightfully situated, and com- manding a view of the country towards the sea. It is surrounded by beautiful plantations tastefully laid out Through the adjacent grounds, a variety of beautiful walks are interspersed, and, what seldom happens in other places, they have always a dry bot- tom, both summer and winter, and are so planned and contriv- ed, that on some of them, it is very easy at any season to find shelter from the wind and the storm. Towards this elegant edifice of Whittingham House, there are three magnificent ap- proaches, — one from the east, one from the south, and one from the west. Parochial Registers. — The date of the earliest entry in the pa- rish register is 1626. There have been some part of it lost ; but it has been kept pretty regularly for the last ninety years. Antiquities, — Upon the Marquis of Tweeddale's estate of Priest- law, at the south-east extremity of the parish, there is the appear- ance of a strong encampment, all the parts of which are still en- tire, as described in the former Statistical Account of this parish. This camp is of an oval form, with the broadest end, which is in- accessible, toward the north. On one side are four ditches paraK lei to each other, and the distance betwixt each is about twelve yards. On the north side are three ditches, and the outer one is carried round the whole. The circumference of this ancient mili- tary work measures about 670 yards. Part of the Castle of Whittingham is still in good repair, and is inhabited. It bears evident marks of great antiquity. There is another old building upon this estate called Stoneypath Tower, which was occupied in the year 1414, by James Douglas, design- ed of Roberton, who got it from his father James Douglas, the first Lord Dalkeith. It seems to have been strongly fortified both by nature and by art. A considerable part of its lofty walls are still standing. These estates seem to have been united and in the pos- session of one owner prior to the period in which Queen Mary be- HADDINGTON. E V 66 HADDINGTONSHIRE. stowed the barony of Whittingbamoiithe Earl of Morton in 1564^ as mentioned above. The ruins of the baronial residence of Penshiel axe still Tiiibla. The pend or arch of one wing of the building is still standing* The chapel of Penshiel stood below the house in a glen still cal- led Chapel Haugh. There seem to have been a good many buikU ings about it It is not certain whether any religious serrioes have been performed in it since the Reformation. There are also the ruins of another religious house in this pa- rish on the estate of Papple ; but at what period it was erected, or when it was demolished, is not now known. About twen^ feet of the height of one of its walls are still standing, covered over with ivy. A story concerning it has been handed down from fifc- ther to son, to the present time. There was a religious house at Friardykes in the parish of Stenton, to which the refractory priests from Melrose were occasionally banished; and betwixt the in* habitants of that place and Papple House, there was a frequent intercourse. A servant of one of the monks at Friardykes had by accident become aware of the murder of one of the nuns at Papple by the monks ; but not knowing that his master was con- cerned, communicated to him the discovery. The master ther^ upon takes measures to secure a similar fate for the servant him- self; and the tradition bears that this was prevented by M. De Lisle, the proprietor of Stoneypath Tower, discovering the pui^ pose of the master in a letter which the servant was carrying from him to the master of the house of Papple. 1 1 1. POPUL ATI ON. In the former Statistical Account, it is said, that in 1755, the number of inhabitants in this parish was 714. In 1821, it was 750; in 1831, 715. This decrease of 35 persons was owing to the principal resident heritor's family being in London at the time when the list was made up, and also on account of several houses in the village having been taken down. Number (tf fiunilies in the parUhy - . . . 13^ chiefly employed in agriculture, - . 107 in trade and handicraft, - - fiO other fiimilies, - . . 9 Number of unmarried men, bachelors, or widowers upwards of 50 years of age^ SS women, including widows, upwards of 45 years of age^ 80 The average number of births for the last seven years, . . 14 of deaths, ----- . 7 of marriages, ... . • ^ The number of persons at present under 25 years of age, . • 9|0 upwards of70 years of age^ - ]8 WHITTINGHAM. 67 Character and Habits of the People. — They are in general clean- ly in their houses and persons, orderly and decent in their behavi- our. Most of them attend regularly on public worship, and show a proper respect for the solemn ordinances of religion. There is only one public-house, which, as it is well regulated, has no bad eflect upon the niorals of the parishiqners. During the last three years, there have been four illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — Number of imperial acres cultivated or occasionally in tillage, . . 3958 ^ never cultivated or in pasture, . . 16500 under wood, 215 The greater proportion of the lands are enclosed with ditch and hedge, and in some places with stone dikes. The soil on the south side of Whittingham water is inferior to that on the north side. A part of the former division is of a light and sandy soil, and some of it poor clay ; however, there are several fields even here of a rich fertile good turnip soil Upon the north side of the water, the soil is of a superior quality, some of it is a deep rich loam, capable of producing as rich crops, when the season is favourable, as any land in the county. There are six large farms in the upper part of the parish among the Lammermoor hills ; part of some of them is arable, and in favourable seasons yields tolerable crops. The sheep grazed in this extensive district amount to about 270 scores, which, besides other profits, yield about 800 stones of wool. There are few black cattle fed here. The rental of these six farms is about L. 900. Two of them were let for three nineteen years leases and a life- time. The modes of husbandry generally followed in the lower part of the parish are the following : On a rich clay soil a rotation of seven shifts, viz. fallow, wheat, grass, grass, oats, beans, wheat ; on a poor clay soil a five-shift rotation, fallow, wheat, grass, grass, oats; on rich turnip soil seven-shift .rotation, turnips, wheat, or barley, grass, grass, oats, beans, wheat ; on a poor turnip soil five- shift rotation, turnips, barley, grass, grass, oats. Rent of Land — In the lower part of the parish the maximum rent is L. 3, 10s. and the minimum L. 1, 10s. per acre, Scots As some of the farms are now let at a grain rent, the average can- not be exactly ascertained. The rent for the grass of an ox or '•^ .13466 2068 1696 45 68 HADDINGTONSHIRE. COW is betwixt L. 3 and L. 4. The real rent of the pariah ii about L. 7596. The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the pariabi as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds poUtoes, turnips, and hay, land in pasture, thinning of woods, ToUl yearly value of raw produce, - L. 17275 V. — Parochial Economy. There is only one village in the parish, from which, to the nearest market-town, Haddington, is a distance of six miles ; Dunbar is seven miles distant from Whittingham. The roads through this parish are no less in extent than thirty miles. There are 67^ ploughgates in the parish, and each pays L. 2 for keeping these Hues of roads in proper repair. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated on the north side of Whittingham Water. It was built in 1722, and was repaired and made very commodious (though still rather small) in the year 1820l It can only accommodate about 350, though it should contain 47& There are usually about 270 communicants. The greatest part of the population reside to the westward of it, — some of those, in the Lammermoor district, being ten miles distant from their parish church. The manse was built in 1765, and is still in good order. The glebe, garden, and ground occupied by the manse and offices^ contain 6^ acres of good ground. The stipend was augmented in 1829, to 16 chalders of victual, half oats, and half barley, and L.8^ 6s. 8d. for communion element money. The number of families attending the Established church is 133 ; of Dissenting or Seced- ing families, 3. Education. — The parochial school is the only seminary in the parish, the master of which has the maximum salary, L. 34, 4s, 4d. : and his school fees may amount to L. 27 per annum. He has also about L. 14 a-year from other sources. The average number ot scholars is 75. There are no persons in the parish above six years who cannot read, nor above ten who cannot write, or are not learn- ing to do so. There are about 50 Sunday scholars. Poor. — The number of persons on the poor list at present is 17 (old persons,) and 12 (children, who cannot yet support them- selves.) The old persons receive from 15s. per quarter, to L. 1, Ss., WHITTINGHAM. 69 the children get 8s. 6d. per quarter each. The total amount dis- tributed among the poor, young and old, is about L. 88, 8s. annual- ly, besides house rents to some, and occasional supplies to others, in time of distress. The sums for the support of the poor are raised by assessment by the collections at the church, which amount annually to about L. 15, and by proclamations of marriage, and by mortcioths, and by L. 4 of interest of money mortified by the late Alexander Hay, Esq. of Drummelzier, once the patron of this pa- rish. The assessment for this year amounts to L. 70. Out of the ses- sion funds, the session-clerk, the precentor, and officer, are paid small salaries. The patron of the parish occasionally sends donations to the minister for the support of the industrious poor, not on the list, who may stand in need of some temporary supply; and his lady benevolently distributes among them coals and clothes annu- ally, as their necessities require. The receiving of parochial aid is here now reckoned no degra- dation. Many demand it as a legal right ; and instances are not uncommon of active young men in good circumstances, who do not think it incumbent on them to supply the wants of their aged pa- rents, but who without scruple, consign them to the support of the parish. May 1835. PARISH OF DUNBAR. PRESBYTERY OF DUNBAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JOHN JAFFRAY, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The richest part of East Lothian, which is the Bnest com district in North Britain, is the parish of Dunbar. The name is evidently derived from the castle, which had the same appellation, and stood on a lofty rock within sea-mark, dividing equally the length of the parish. This castle, according to Hollinshed and Buchanan, was conferred by Kenneth I. of Scotland, about the year 835, upon an eminent warrior, whose name was Bar, — hence it was called Dun-bar ; but it is much more probable that this ancient hero took his name from the castle, and that the word is descriptive of the object and its situation, and signifies, both in British and Gae- lic, according to the learned author of Caledonia, the fort on the height, top, or extremity.* Extent^ lioumlaries^ S^'c, — The parish consists of a royal burgh and a landward district. The former i& near the castle, to which it owes both its name and existence. The latter stretches along the coast from east to west, 7 miles, 6 furlongs, and 160 yards in length, and from south to north 3 miles, 6 furlongs , and 70 yards in breadth. The mean length is 6 miles and 6 furlongs, and the mean breadth 1 mile 5^ furlongs, — which gives 11 :J^ square miles of extent. It is bounded by the parishes of Tynninghame and Prestonkirk on the west ; Stenton and Spott on the south ; In- nerwick on the east; and the German ocean on the north. Topographical Appearances* — Tlie figure is verj- irregular, being much indented both by the sea and by other lands. The coast to the east of the castle is of low rocky ledges, and to the west it is of craggy cliffs, which are lost under the sand of the beautiful bay of Belhaven. Tlie surface presents a pleasing variety of hill and dale, ascending gradually from the sea towards Lammermoor— com- manding an extensive prospect which embraces a great variety of striking objects, — St Abb's Head, Traprain-law, the beautiful woods * Chalmers, Caledonia, ii. 406. DUNBAp. 71 of Tynninghame, the Bass, the May, and the boundless ocean. The highest ground is Brunt-hill, which is 700 feet above the level of the sea: near to which, on the march, is Downhill, which is 580 feet above the level of the sea, and is famous as the place where Leslie encamped previous to the battle afterwards noticed. Hydrography. — The land is naturally so dry, that it would be difficult to find a spring on the surface. The water which supplies the town is brought two miles in leaden pipes from St John's well, in the parish of Spott, — which well is 200 feet above the sea. — The difference between high and low water is 18 feet — There are four streams which wind their way from the hills, and run through the parish into the ocean, — the Tyne, which separates Dunbar from Tynninghame, — the Belton water, which, after running through the old parish of Belton, joins the sea at the old port of la Belle Haven, — Broxburn which gives- it$ name to Broxmouth Park, and joins the sea there, — and Drybum water, which is the eastern boundary. Geology. — The rocky formations are all of the secon3ary class, and upon the coast they are laid bare, as if on purpose to attract the notice of the geologist The strata are either horizontal or inclined, and at particular places nearly vertical. The direction is N. E. and S. W. and the dip is to the S. E. From the eastern march west to the inlet of Broxburn, these rocks are grayish, and at some places yellowish sandstone, stratified and nearly horizon- tal, with numerous superincumbent beds of bluish gray limestone. One of these calcareous rocks east of Catcraig is a bed of petrifi- ed shells; and another of them, on the west of the same place, is petrified coral, and resembles masses of worms. There is a boulder east of the Vault, and another on the west, both just with- in flood -mark, and not belonging to the neighbouring rocks, but of granite formation. West of the said inlet, is a narrow bed or dike of porphyritic basaltic greenstone. Here the grayish sand- stone disappears, and the place is occupied by red sandstone, more inclined, and at places nearly vertical. Next in succession is a rock of greenstone, of red coloured trap tuff, and of red conglo- merated sandstone. These rocks are marked with beautiful moun- tain-green spots and they fill up the space right on to the harbour, which is cut out of a thick bed of red-coloured trap, which Profes- sor Jameson calls an iron shot porphyritic greenstone, — the colum- nar structure of which is visible all around, but particularly on the north-west side of the battery. These columns are either penta- gons or hexagons, but not of equal sides, having one lax^ ^jcsA^-w^ small, and the rest nearly equal, TYve^ ^te\o\\v\,^\^\s^i\.^^R^^^ x^^'^- 7 2 HADDINGTONSHIRE. larly as those in the Island of Staffa, having convex ends answer^ ing to the concave bottoms of the incumbent joints ; and they are neither in horizontal norvertical layers, butare formed of an hundred concentric circles Uke the coats ofan onion, and, what is still more peculiar, they are intersected by a thousand jasper veins as small as horse hairs, traversing but not intercepting one another in all direo tions. The septa of red and white sparry matter fills up the space be- tween them, and they are pervaded transversely by veins of die same matter. Such is the external and internal formation of these ba^ salts, which resemble the Giant's Causeway in Ireland, and are considered a great natural curiosity. Under these pillars, is a bed of red-coloured trap tuff resting upon sandstone, succeeded by lofty rugged rocks of the trap series, upon which the vestiges that remain of the ancient Castle of Dunbar are founded. Here the softer rocks have yielded to the perpetual motion of the vraters, while the more compact remain, forming large caverns and rugged arches, — through which the tide rushes with impetuous fury, present- ing a grand spectacle at all times, but awfully sublime during a storm. West of the castle, is a tract of sandstone, through the cen- tre of which a mass of trap rock (failed the " doo rock" rises to a considerable height, and not being hid by debris, it may fitly be compared to the skeleton of a mountain in miniature. Craggy cliffs of trap rock continue onward until they are succeeded first by cliffs, and then by ledges of red and white sandstone, which disappear under the sand of Belhaven bay.* Soil. — The general character of the soil is a rich brown loam, having a substratum of clay or gravel of great depth resting, to the west of Belton water, upon trap; and from that water to Broxburn, 'Upon a tract of red sandstone, which runs west through the county; and from that stream east, upon limestone, corresponding with the rocks upon the coast. Coal has been found here at several places, but not of sufficient thickness to be wrought. It abounds west of Had- dington, and also directly opposite in Fife; and as Dunbar is in the same basin, there is a great probability that workable seams exist * The Fox man-of war was unfortunately stranded off Dunbar in 1745, and there went to pieces. The wreck remained under water above thirty years, when a violent storm laid a part of it bare, and several masses, consisting of iron, ropes, and balls were found on the Belhavcn sands, near the place, covered over with a very hard ochry substance, of the colour of iron, which adhered thereto so strongly that it required great force to detach it from the fragments of the wreck. Upon examination, this substance appeared to be sand, concreted and hardened into a kind of stone. In a paper upon the subject by £dwar4 King, Esq. and published in the Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society, he concludes, ** that there is on the coasu of this island, a continual progressive induration oi masses of sand and other matter at the bottom of the ocean, somewhat in the same manner as there is at the bottom of the Adriatic sea.** DUNBAR. 73 here also. Mr Hay is just now boring for that mineral on his es^ tate of Eastbams. The work is conducted by a regularly bred miner, and the public-spirited proprietor has permitted me to copy the journal as below : * Botany. — The dominion of the plough is here so universal, that this is not a favourable situation for the botanist. It is difficult to determine what are the plants peculiar to the soil, but the follow- ing are not common, and have their habitats in the parish : Aspe-- •Strata. Gray freestone bonds, 1. Coal, Blue metal, W'hite freestone band. Blue metal, . White freestone, Gray freestone band, Blue metal. White freestone, Sofl blue metal. Limestone, 2. Coal, White freestone, Blue metal parting, White freestone. Blue metal parting. White freestone, Blue metal parting. White freestone, . Blue metal parting, 3. Coal, • • . White freestone. Blue parting. Gray freestone. Blue pai ting, White freestone, • Blue parting, • Black metal, . W'hite freestone, 4. Coal, White freestone. Gray freestone, Bluf metal, W^hitc freestone. Blue metal, • 5. Coal, White freestone. Gray freestone. Red Hill, . Red freestone, ^ . Gray freestone parting. Red freestone. Hard freestone beds, Ironstone, Gray freestone parting. Red freestone bed, Depth. Feet. Inches, 4 4 2 9 11 4 I 6 10 24 8 8 4 6 5 8 2 3 3 5 2 d 4 3 5 11 4 8 6 7 5 4 6 4 7 5 5 2 5 3 3 6 2 11 7 9 2 10 8 25 6 I 6 10 6 7 1 6 12 6 6 27 9 3 9 3 5 Strata, Brought up. Gray parting, . Blue metal, . White freestone, 6. Coal. . • • Gray freestone, . Red freestone beds. Ironstone, Red freestone beds. White freestone, • White freestone. Red Hill parting. White freestone. Red freestone, • White freestone. Red Hill parting. White freestone, . Red Hill parting, . White freestone. Red Hill parting. White freestone, Red freestone. White mixed with red, White freestone, . Red freestone, White freestone, • Gray freestone. White freestone, Red freestone. White freestone. Red freestone, • • White freestone. Red Hill parting, Gray mixed with white. Red Hill parting, White and gray mixture, Red Hill parting. White and gray mixture, Red Hill parting. White and gray mixture. Red Hill parting, White and gray mixturey Red Hill parting. White and gray mixture. Red parting. Depth. Feet. Inches* 199 8 3 2 4 14 5 7 3 4 9 3 8 1 4 4 2 8 2 8 6 4 8 6 6 6 6 1 21 2 8 1 6 2 9 3 10 1 6 9 1 1 4 6 4 6 6 6 6 3 5 6 3 4 6 3 5 6 3 3 6 Carry up. 199 8 Total depth, 336 74 HADDINGTONSHIRE. • ruga procumbensj among the ruins of the castle ; Eryngium marUi^ mum^ by the sea coast ; Trifoliutn scabrum^ dry pastures by the sea; Epipactis paltistrisj marsh near Dunbar; Verrucaria maura^ ba- saltic rocks at Dunbar; and Menyanthes trifolicUa^ marshes at Brox- mouth. The following Algae are found on the rocks and coast of Dunbar, Lichina minor^ Lichina conftnis^ Alaria escutenta^ IUh donienia laciriiatajSphosrococciu laciniatusy Ceramium drrosum^ and Fucus loreus. Trees. — There are scarcely any plantations but such as adorn the houses of proprietors. The land is considered too valuable to be laid out in that way, and the fanner has but little fancy for that kind of produce. He prefers a well-dressed hedge to the in- numerable rows of brushwood which in England occupy at least a tenth part of the soil. At Broxmouth, there are many stately well- grown trees of all kinds, and at Belton there are lofty silver firs about two hundred years old, and a magnificent beech tree which, three feet from the ground, measures 18 feet 6 inches. The timber is tough, weighty, and of excellent quality. 11. — Civil History. There is a history of Dunbar by Mr James Miller, a useful and meritorious work; it was published in 1830. The origin of parishes in North Britain, says Chalmers, cannot be traced beyond the ninth century. The time when Dunbar was established is unknown ; but, from the circumstance of its being the most valuable parish in Lothian, it is probable that it was one of the first formed in that district. It is distinguished for its fertility and cultivation, and it derived all its ancient importance from the castle, which was accounted the principal key of the king- dom. The lands of Dunbar and the eastern marches were conferred by Malcolm Canmore, in 1072, upon Cospatrick Earl of North- umberland, a princely nobleman, who fled from the wrath of Wil- liam the Conqueror, into Scotland, and there had a long suc- cession of potent and warlike descendants, who were created Earls of Dunbar and March, and held the same possessions till they were forfeited in 1435. The castle rendered Dunbar the theatre of many warlike exploits. Twice it was the field of very deadly strife: In 1296, when the whole force of Scotland collected for the relief of the castle, were defeated in battle with great slaughter, by Earl Warrene, the English Commander, who was sent to press the siege: And again in 1650, when Cromwell defeated Leslie on the same DUNBAR. 75 ground. " It is a sad reflection," says Chalmers, " that it was of little importance to a harassed people whether the fanatical Leslie or the miscreant Cromwell should prevail"* The first of these actions is here called the battle of Dunbar, the other the battle of Downhill. — During the civil war in 1745, Sir John Cope land- ed his troops at Dunbar, where he was joined by two regiments of dragoons : he marched thence towards Edinburgh, and was inglo- riously defeated in the battle of Preston. — In 1779, the famous Paul Jones lay off Dunbar several days with five ships, and alarm- ed the inhabitants, who prepared to defend the town. — In 1781, the' American Captain Fall, another sea adventurer, tried to carry off a vessel from the mouth of the harbour. This led to a brief and decisive action : three shots were fired on each side, and one of them from* the shore was so well directed by an old skilful seaman, that it nearly carried away the enemy's mast, and made him change his purpose. To defend the town and harbour against such as- saults, a battery was erected in the same year, of sixteen guns, — which at the general peace were removed to Edinburgh. — When an invasion of the French was dreaded, it was believed that a land- ing might be attempted at Belhaven bay ; to guard against which an enciimpment was made in 1803 on West Barns Links, under the command of General Don, a very active ofiicer ; and thereafter barracks were erected west of the castle for 1200 infantry, and at Belhaven for 300 cavalry. Dunbar was distinguished for its loyalty, and could boast of a corps of volunteers, and a troop of yeomanry cavalry collected from the parish and^ neighbourhood, equal to any in the kingdom. Burgh. — Buchanan mentions Dunbar so early as the year 856, when it was burned by Kenneth King of Scotland. It has evi- dently grown up under the protection of its castle. It was of old surrounded with a wall, had three posts or gates, and its principal street is regular and spacious. It was created by David II. a free burgh, with limits as extensive as the earldom of March, with a market cross, with power to buy and sell, with a coquet and trone, and with a free port at la Belle Haven. Its privileges were after- wards confirmed and extended by several. royal charters. In one of the last of these charters, dated " apud palatium nostrum de Halyrudhaus, 1 Mar. 1603," King James VI. confirmed to the provost, bailies, and community of Dunbar, the charter of David II. charter by King James II., dated 16th May 1445, — a charter * Caledonia, ii. 426. 76 HADDINGTONSHIRE. by Mary Queen of Scots, dated 1 8th June 1555,— and another charter by the same Queen, dated 3 1st March 1567; and defined the boundaries of the burgh according to a decision of the Court of Session, dated the 21st June 1569. A representative from Dunbar was admitted into the Scottish Parliament; but since the Union, it unites with Haddington, North- Berwick, Jedburgh, and Lauder, in sending one member to Par^ liament. The town was entirely burned in 1548, by the English army which Henry VIII. sent to punish the Scots for refusing to allow the marriage of their young Queen with his son. It is go- verned by a Provost, three Bailies, a Treasurer, and fifteen Coun- cillors. Its annual revenue is upwards of L. 1300 Sterling, derived from property and imposts. Eminent Characters. — Columba Dunbar was Dean of the Church of Dunbar in 1411, when he was promoted to the see of Moray. Thomas Hay, Dean of Dunbar, was, in 1532, appointed a Sena- tor of the College of Justice. Andrew Wood, Rector of Dunbar, was in 1676, promoted to the Bishopric of the Isles, and continued to hold it by dispensa- tion. He was translated to the see of Caithness, which he held till his episcopate was abolished at the Revolution. He died at Dunbar at the venerable age of seventy-six. George Home of Manderston, Lord High Treasurer of Scot- land under James VI., by whom he was, in 1605, created Earl of Dunbar, died at Whitehall the 29th January 1611, and was bu- ried in the Old Church of Dunbar. A splendid marble monument, superior, it is said, in sculpture to any thing of the kind in Scotland^ was erected to his memory: it is still preserved in the present church, and is 12 feet broad and 26 feet high. It is alleged that the Earl was attached to the prelatic form of worship ; and ac- cordingly, he is represented at full length, clad in armour, kneel- ing on a cushion, with his prayer book open before him. His sup- porters are two knights in armour ; and above, on the one side stands Justice, and on the other Wisdom. There are other appropriate figures and devices, and the whole is crowned with the arms of Home. James Kirkwood, Rector of Astwick, in Bedfordshire, was bom in the parish, and educated at the schools of Dunbar. He be- queathed in 1708, curiosities, books, and papers to the Presbytery of Dunbar, giving an account of his endeavours, in conjunction with DUNBAR. 77 the Honourable Robert Boyle, in disseminating the Irish Bible throughout the Highlands of Scotland. Patrick Carfrae, D. D. was translated from Morham in 1795, to the church and parish of Dunbar. He was perhaps the most elo- quent and accomplished preacher of his day. It is well known that such was the opinion of a very competent judge, the late Lord Liverpool, who was a regular hearer in the church of Dunbar, when stationed here with his regiment. Doctor Carfrae possessed in a high degree all the requisites of an orator ; and was one of the brightest ornaments of the classic age which is gone by. A family of the name of Fall established themselves at Dunbar, and became during the last century the most extensive merchants in Scotland. They were long the chief magistrates of the burgh, and preferred the public good to their own profit. They have left no one to bear their name, not even a stone to tell where they lie ; but they will long be remembered for their enterprise and public spirit. Chief Land'owners. — The Duke of Roxburghe;* Sir George Warrender of Lochend ; Robert Hay, Esq. of East- Barns ; Cap- tain Hay, R, N. of Belton ; General Hardyman of Heatherwick ; Mrs Hamilton Nisbet Ferguson of Ninewar ; William Sandilands, Esq. of Barnyhill ; John Allan, Esq. of Links, &c. Most of the estates of these land-owners have long been in possession of their families respectively. Parochial Registers. — Their earliest date is 1658. They have been regularly kept, and are not voluminous. The burgh register of sasines begins in 1620, the register of dispositions in 1737, and the council books in 1656. Antiquities^ Castle^ Sfc. — The ruins of the castle form a remark- able antiquity. They are particularly described by Sir Walter Scott in his Provincial Antiquities, and Grose has preserved two views of them. Founded upon a lofty rugged rock within the sea- mark, and connected with a battery on the adjoining land, by a wall through which there is a covered passage, this castle was so strongly fortified both by nature and by art, that before the inven- tion of gunpowder it was deemed impregnable. The date of the buildings is unknown ; but they are evidently the work of different ages. Several of the towers communicating with the sea gave it great advantages over inland forts. Being conferred on Cospa- * The estate and mansion of Broxmouth belonging to the Dukedom are liferent- ed by Mary Duchess Dowager of Roxburghe. 78 HADDINGTONSHIRE. trick, it was the pnDcipal baronial residence of his descendants, and afforded the means of enabling these warlike lords to maintain power and authority, little less than royal, through a long succession of rude and turbulent ages. In 1296, the eighth Earl of that family, adhering to the English interest, his wife Margery Comyn surren- dered his Castle of Dunbar to the Scots, when Edward L sent Earl Warrene to press the siege of this important place, which led to the battle of Dunbar. Edward IL after his defeat at Bannock- burn in 1314, sought refuge in this castle, and went from thence by sea to Berwick. The ninth Earl razed his castle of Dunbar, that it might not fall into the hands of the English, and was oblig- ed by Edward III. to rebuild it at his own expense. It was often besieged, and as often bravely defended ; but perhaps the most bril- liant period of its history was about 1337, when it was defended by Black Agnes against the Earl of Salisbury. In 1434, Geoige the eleventh and last Earl of Dunbar and March, was for his fii- ther's treason disinherited of his estates and seignories, which, with the hereditary castle of Dunbar, passed to the Crown, and were given to the Duke of Albany. Jane Seymour, dowager of James L the most beautiful and ac* complished woman of her age, died in the Castle of Dunbar in 1446, and was buried at Perth. The Duke of Albany, on his flight from Edinburgh Castle in 1475, landed at his Castle of Dunbar, and pro- ceeded thence to France. He returned and regained possession of this castle, and was compelled to fly from it a second time in 1483, when he left it in the hands of the English, who surrendered it to James IIL in 1486. An act of Parliament passed in 1488 directs the Castle of Dunbar to be cast down and utterly destroyed, in such manner as to render it incapable of repairs in time to come, ** be- cause it has done great skaith in time bygone, and it were great danger to the realm if it were negligently keeped in future." This act was not carried into effect till nearly a century afterwards. Four times did this stronghold receive within its walls the un- fortunate Queen Mary. In 1565, after the assassination of Rizno, she fled to it that she might be safe from the conspirators; and in the same year Bothwell, who had assisted her escape, was appoint- ed its keeper. The Queen and her court on a tour along the Tweed by Berwick arrived at this castle on the 17 th November 1566, and remained there six days. After the murder of Damley in 1567, BothwelPs guilty associates having recommended him to Mary for a husband, he marched at the head of a thousand horsemen, ar- DUNBAR. 79 rested the Queen at Almond Bridge, and carried her forcibly with her principal attendantis to this ca.stle, where he kept her twelve days imprisoned. One short month after her union with Bothw^ll, Mary was compelled to fly first to Borthwick, and next, disguised as a page, to Dunbar Castle, where she collected forces from Lothian and the Merse, and marched to Carberry hill ; there she joined the insurgents, and Bothwell deserted returned to Dunbar Castle '* With shame and sorrow filled, Shame for his folly ; sorrow out of time For plotting an unprofitable crime.*' Bothwell's dependents shortly thereafter surrendered the castle to the Earl of Murray, Regent of Scotland; and in 1567 Parliament ordered it to be demolished, and the artillery carried to Edinburgh, — which was so literally executed some months thereafter, that no- thing now remains of this important place of strength but the ves- tiges of its former grandeur. These are in many parts now so completely effaced that the antiquary may here give full scope to his imagination, and delight himself with rebuilding this ancient castle in the air. Patrick the sixth Earl of Dunbar, in 1218, founded in this pa- rish a monastery of Red or Trinity friars ; part of the building is still standing in the Friars Croft. The lands which piety or zeal had given them, says Spottiswood, were transferred after the Re- formation to George Home of Friarsland. In 1263, the seventh Earl founded here a monastery of Carme- lites or White friars ; but no vestiges of it now remain. Some Ro- man medals inscribed Judea captiva were found, on digging the site of the reservoir : hence it was supposed to have been formerly the site of the Carmelite friary. There was also a Maison Dieu at the head of the High Street ; but its pious founder is now unknown. In Broxmouth Park, there is a small mound of earth where Crom- well stood (and which is still called Cromwell's Mount,) when, look- ing through a glass, he beheld Leslie's army descending from the hill, and exclaimed the " Lord hath delivered them into my hands." In a sequestered spot, not far from the door of Broxmouth House, is a rough tombstone, having the name of Sir William Douglas rudely inscribed upon it ; he was one of the Douglasses of Kirkness, a branch of the Morton family, and the only individual among the fallen in that battle who has been honoured even with such a frail memorial to mark the warrior's bed. Modem Buildings, — There is a Gothic church, having its base 65 feet above the level of the sea, with a magnificent tower 107 (<^ ^^^^ 84 HADDINGTONSHIRE. increasing produce and fertility. Hence it seems to follow that land properly cultivated and manured may produce abundantly the same kind of crop in regular succession. If the food of plants is exhausted in exact proportion to the weight of crop produced, it is worthy of investigation whether the advantage of changing the kind of crop does not arise from one kind giving off food for another kind, but solely from the different modes of cultivation which diffe- rent kinds of crop admit of at different seasons. Varieties of wheat have been recommended; but where the soil and climate are good, the kind most prized, both by the skil- ful miller and baker, is the white wheat from Kent and Essex. Some of the best growers there import seed from America; the produce of which has been tried here. It grows freely, has a tapering stalk, yields well, has plenty of straw, is eight days ear- lier, and brings the highest price in the London markets The grain of wheat in its wild state is a very paltry seed. It has been raised to its present plump state by cultivation ; and by a little at- tention the process of improvement might be accelerated. The author has found, from experiments, that ears and even grains of wheat reproduced their like; hence, by a judicious selection of either, better and more prolific kincbs than any hitherto in use might be obtained. The duration of leases is generally nineteen years. Farm-build- ings have here long been constructed after the most approved plans* The land is all inclosed either with stone dikes or thorn hedges; the latter are regularly cleaned and nejitly kept Thrashing of corn by steam is the greatest improvement which has lately been introduced here. The work is thereby done so com- pletely, that, on a large farm, the whole outlay is saved the first year : the farmer is enabled to bring his corn to the market at any season ; and there is a great saving of horses, to which the rotatory motion of the mill is most pernicious. Pillars, whereon to build the corn in the barn yard, should have been more generally intro- duced. Some individuals have them of stone, but cast-iron ones are the best. They have a cover with a turned down edge, — which ren- ders them a complete defence against vermin. They admit a free circulation of air to the stacks, and the saving is beyond calculation. If there be any thing to censure in this improved district, it is the careless manner in which the corn is cut. Some seasons, in such a soil and climate, the whole crop is ripe at once. The country is then deluged with Iris^ reapers, who on their way south are here hired by hundreds, and perhaps the YiVvole cto^i V5» exx\. \xv ^v^t DUNBAR. 85 days. Some of these poor creatures appear uever to have cut corn before, and they have no object but to remain their hours and to re- ceive their meat and wages. The field is too often a scene of con- fusion ; there is neither a sufficient portion of work done, nor is it done in a workman-like manner. The corn being irregularly cut and laid in the sheaf, much of it is lost in working, and the irregu- lar heads escape the mill in thrashing. Perhaps it is thought, that where nature has been bountiful, the fowls of Heaven and the poor have a right to their share ; but it is certain, that when the corn is led from the field, a gleaner will with ease collect a bushel per day. It is true, some farmers rake their fields ; but grain which remains on the ground is discoloured and injured ; and the best raking is clean-cutting. There are distinguished exceptions in the parish ; but the practice is too generally applicable to the district. It may safely be affirnied of the Dunbar farmers that they readily make trial of any thing that promises to be useful ; that there is amongst them a great deal of good-natured emulation ; and that they frankly com- municate the results of their experiments. In short, so much has been done here, both by nature and by art, to render the earth pro- ductive, that perhaps there remains but little to carry husbandry to perfection. Quarries, — Red freestone more or less compact abounds. There are also two quarries of gray limestone. The lime is very pure, very white, and forms a strong cement. Much lime for manure is carried from this quarter to Berwickshire. It is to be regretted that in this parish, where it abounds, it has not been so copiously applied for that purpose as it ought, — from a belief that the free nature of the soil does not require it ; whereas Sir Humphry Davy asserts, that ** all soils are improved by mild lime, and ultimately by quicklime, which do not eflFervesce with acids and sands more than clays." Fisheries. — White fish of all kinds and lobsters are caught off the coast The cod are pickled, and sent to London ; the had- docks are smoked and sent chiefly to Edinburgh and Glasgow. The lobsters are preserved in pits cut out of the rock within sea mark, which are called bullies, and sent to London. In August and September, herrings of excellent quality are caught oflF Dun- bar : some yeacs, 300 boats have been so employed ; but of late, either the fish have not been upon the coast, or, what is more pro- bable, the fishermen have not found them. Raw Produce. — Wheat having fallen in price so much of late, a considerable portion of barley is now sown after turnips, in ijjlace of wheats in the rotation above staled ^WV ?A\Y^ciiYft!^^^'sfe\:H<^>Ki».^ 8() HADDINGTONSHIRE. of crops to be equal in value, that will make no difference on the average gross amount of raw produce, — which, from the extent of land in the parish, and the rotation of cropping, may be calculated thus: Deduct from the whole parish 100 acres for roads and hedges, and 300 acres of links^ which are not allowed to be ploughed, and then there will remain 6797 acres, which are either occupied as follows, or with some other produce equally valuable. Turnips, 1133 acres at L. 6, 10s. per acre, - - L. 7364 10 Wheat, ii'266 acres, 32 bushels at 7s. 7d. per bushel, - 27494 2 6 Grass, 1 1. '33 do. at L. 5, per acre, _ - - . df^ Oats, 1 133 do. at 58 bushels per acre, at ds. 1 4d. per bushel, 10*262 16 b\ Beans, 1 133 do. at 26 bushels per acre, at 4s. Id. per bushel, 6014 6 10 Links, 300 do at L.l, per acre, 900 Lime, 18000 bolls annually, at Is. 6d. per boll, - 1300 Fish annually 800 Lobsters, 15000 Annual amount of raw produce, L. 59,950 15 94 The average of the grain is taken from the examination of Mr Brodie of Thornton Loch, before a committee of the House of Lords in 1814; and the price is the average of the Haddington fiars for the last seven years. Bone manure having enabled the hill farmer to raise turnips, their price has fallen in the low lands. Manufactures, — The expectations formed of the flax mill erect- ed at West Barns in 1792 were not realized ; and the cotton factory established at Belliaven in 1815 was also a failure. Both of these undertakings were productive of loss to the parties concerned, and introduced many paupers into the parish. Such factories can only exist advantageously where numbers of persons in manufacturing employments are congregated together, and such a population and that of a rich agricultural district have never been found to harmo- nize. — There are two founderies here, which manufacture machi- nery of various kinds. Mr Sked, the proprietor of one of them, is celebrated for his steam-engines. — Dunbar was of old famous for its malt. It is equally so at present for its ale. Navigation, — The same causes which have depressed shipping everywhere else, have aflected that of Dunbar, — so that now it is not equal there to what it was in 1792, when there were sixteen vessels of 1505 tons burthen in all, besides two Greenland ships of 675 tons. At present there are eighteen small vessels, of only 1233 tons burthen in all, three of which are chiefly employed in fo- reign, and the others in the coast trade. The subjoined state- ments may give an idea of the trade of the port. 1. Number of vessels with cargoes that have entered inwards at the Custom-house, Dunbar, from foreign ports^ in the year ended ^th Janunrv 1835 : DUNBAR. 87 Of vessels, 23 ; tons, 2310 ; men, 134. Amount of duties re- ceived on foreign goods imported in the year ended 5th January 1835, L.2942, 15s. 2. The number of vessels coastwise^ that have discharged and loaded cargoes at Dunbar, in the year ended 5th January 1835: Inwards — Of vessels, 244; tons, 11,919; men, 762. Outwards — Do. 149 ; tons, 7081 ; men, 478. 3. Foreign grain imported at Dunbar in the year ended 5th Ja- nuary 1835: Wheat, 203 quarters 4 bushels; barley, 3346 quarters. 4. Quantities remaining in the bonded warehouses at 5th January 1835 : — Wheat, 441 quarters 1 bushel ; barley, 3346 quarters ; oats, 145 quarters, 7 bushels ; total, 3933 quarters. 5. Coals imported at Dunbar and its creeks during the same year: — Scotch coals, 9489 tons, 13 cwt. ; English do. 763 tons, 5 cwt.; English cinders, 31 tons, 16 cwt. 6. Corn imported coastwise during the same year : — Wlieat, 342 quarters ; barley, 2007 quarters, 2 bushels. 7. Corn exported coastwise during the same year. — Wheat, 8608 quarters, 3 bushels ; barley, 3936 quarters, 1 bushel ; oats, 6067 quarters, 1 bushel; beans and pejisc, 1981 quarters, 7 bushels; malt, 359 bushels; wheat flour, 231 sacks. Whisky ex- ported, 91,900 gallons. Three distilleries, one of them in the parish, and the other two in Haddington, have done no work for the last two years. This must have greatly affected the grain market, and also the trade of the port. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — Dunbar is inhabited chiefly by the merchants, shopkeepers, and artisans required in such a situation; and it is the only market-town in the district. It had formerly a sample mar- ket for grain every Thursday, which in 1832 was converted into a stock-market every Tuesday. Grain is brought to it from the surrounding country, but prin- cipally from the high-lands of Berwickshire, in the proportion, some days through the eastern toll, of ninety cart load from that quarter, to nine from the county of Haddington. The love of change led to the establishment lately of a stock-market at Tra- nent This divided the Haddington market, which was decidedly the most important grain-market in Scotland ; lessened competi- tion, introduced inferior grain, and reduced the prices. The sel- lers are now at the mercy of the buyer; whatever portion of grain is presenteAj the result is the same. \l iVv^i^ ^\^ wq xxv^^^'KewVs*^^^ 88 HADUINGTONSHIRE. there are no sales ; and if only two or three appear, it is in their power to regulate the market. Villages, — There are three villages, namely. East- Barns, West- Barns>, and Belhaven. Means of Communication. — Seven miles, six furlongs, and ninety yards of the grieat road to London, pass through the parish ; and there are excellent conveyances, both east and west. There is a post- office in the town, where the royal mail arrives every day at forty-five minutes past ten o'clock in the forenoon from the north, and at twenty minutes past eleven o'clock forenoon from the south. Steele's coach, which is both speedy and comfortable, leaves Dunbar for Edinburgh every week-day at seven o'clock in the morning, and re- turns to it on the same day at the same hour in the evening. The Union and Berwick coaches pass and repass every week-day. There are carriers twice every week, and regular packets to Leith and London. Harbour. — The harbour is safe and commodious, has 9 feet of water at neap, and 14 at spring tides, and admits vessels of 300 tons burthen ; but on account of rugged rocks at its entrance, skilful pilotage is required. The convention of Royal burghs in 1785, voted L. 600 to improve it ; and Cromwell in his time grant- ed L. 300 to repair the east pier, which had been destroyed by a storm. Ecclesiastical State. — The worthy St Baldred, it is said, was the apostle of East Lothian. He fixed his cell at Tynninghame, and preached the Gospel through the district, sometime duringthe sixth century; and his successor was the pious St Cuthbert; but the sub- ject is involved in obscurity. The parish belonged originally to the bishopric of Lindisfarne ; and at the decline of the Northum- brian kingdom, it was ceded in 1020, with the rest of Lothian to the Scottish King, and annexed to the bishopric of St Andrews. In addition to the present parish, it then contained the parochial districts of Whittingham, Stenton, and Spott, which were chapelries subordinate to the mother church. This very extensive parish had six chapels, namely, Pinkterton, Heatherwick, Whittingham, Penshiel, Stenton, and Spott. Dunbar with its chapel of Whit- tingham was valued in 1176 at 180 merks, which, says Chalmers, *' is a greater valuation than any other church in Scotland could bear." The Earls of Dunbar were proprietors of the whole pa- rish, and patrons of the church and subordinate chapels. Patrick' the tenth Earl, in 1342, converted this parochial into a collegiate church, which was the first cstabUshmetvt ot \W Va\A\w ^qXVwcA, DUNBAR. 89 It consisted of a Dean, an Archpriest, and eighteen Canons ; and the revenues of the church of Dunbar, with the incomes of the chapels of Whittingham, Spott, Stenton, Penshiel, and Heather- wick, were assigned for their support. The founder annexed to this college the churches of Linton or Prestonkirk, Dunse, and Chirnside ; and he reserved the patronage of the whole to himself and his successors. Afterwards, the chapels were converted into parish churches, but still dependent on the mother church as prebends of the college. When Heatherwick was made a distinct parish, it was a rectory called Bclton, which was the name of the estate and also of two villages. It remained a separate parish until the Reformation in 1560, when it was re-annexed to Dunbar, and then also Dunbar ceased to be collegiate. The patronage of the church fell to the Crown with the forfeiture of the Earldom of Dunbar in 1434. The said oarldom and patronage were enjoyed by the Duke of Albany, and at his forfeiture they again fell to the Crown, in 1483. The patronage of the church of Dunbar now belongs to the Dukedom of Roxburghe, and it is liferented by Mary Duchess Dowager of Roxburghe. It appears that the church was named St Bae's, after its founder, according to a traditionary rhyme regarding three female saints, who strove to build a church nearest to the sea.* We find that in a charter by King James IV. it is called Ecclesia Collegiata Sancti Bae dc Dunbar. The building must have been repeatedly renewed and altered. When last taken down, its style was a mixture of Gothic and Saxon ; and it was in the form of a cross. It was inconvenient, and not large enough for the popu- lation. The last time Divine service was performed in it was on Sundav, 7th March 1819. The foundation stone of a new church was laid on the site of the old one, 17th April 1819; and on the 20th April 18'21, the now church was opened for the ordina- tion of the present incumbent. It is most conveniently situated for the whole parish. Almost the whole inhabitants are within three miles of it, and scarcely any of them beyond four. It contains 1800 persons, and has 61 free sittings for the poor of the parish.-f- The manse was built in 1767. The glebe is four Scotch acres in extent ; and there is no grass glebe. The stipend is twenty • " St Abb's iiixm the N'al), St HelcnK upon tbu Lea, St Hau*!», upon DunlKir sands, Stands nearest tu tbe sea/* f In 1B22, a new metbod of lotting cburcb seats was adopted on tbe part of the burgh. A price was marked upon certain pews beluu^vii^^ ttt \V ^\\^ \JciVi >i \vss^«x xs«^- cd mem up, that none might enter ti\i iVkc-y 'weift Vx., 'VXx^ VvtV-^Rsaaxw ^^ww^ssocasA. 90 HADDINGTONSHIRE. chalders. There are upwards of 1200 communicants in the parish belonging to the EstabHshed Church. In 1792, there was a Burgher meeting in Dunbar, and an Anti- burgher meeting at East- Bams. The latter was in 1820 transferred to Dunbar. One of them is now called the High Meeting, and the other the Low Meeting; and they both belong to the united Asso- ciate Synod. There was then also a small meeting of Wesleyan Methodists ; and what was said in the last Account respecting these societies, is applicable to them still, " their congregations are made up of a collection of people from all the parishes in the neigh- bourhood." There are 615 families that adhere to the Established Church, and 294 families of Dissenters or Seceders of various denominations. Education. — There are two parochial schools, — the one at West- Bams having all the legal accommodations, with the maximum sa- lary, and the other, at East- Bams, having only one-half chalder, and the interest of L. 100 Sterling, bequeathed by William Hume^ tenant at that place, and of L. 50 Sterling bequeathed by the Reverend George Bruce ; and both these sums are committed in trust to the Presbytery of Dunbar, for the benefit of the school. The burgh has an English and a grammar school, united at pre- sent under one master, and a mathematical school. The teacher of the former has a house and forty guineas of salary ; that of the latter a house and L. 20 Sterling. There are three unendowed schools. The rural inhabitants of the parish are very attentive to the edu- cation of their children. Education is also highly prized by the people of. the burgh ; and if among the latter there are individuals who are inattentive to the instruction of their children, they should on no account be discharged from the task by their children being to the Sheriff of this proceeding* who immediately ordered the pews to be opened^ and having heard parties, found, ** That although the heritors of the parish may be entitled to stipulate for, and receive rents from the parishioners for the seats in the parish church, yet, in default of obtaining tenants, they are not warranted in shutting them up in the manner here complained of, and therefore prohibits and interdicts the respondent, the chief Magistrate of Dunbar, from shutting up, in the manner com- plained of, the seats held by that burgh in the parish church, and finds him liable in the expense of this proceeding, reserving to him his relief against the magistrates and the community of said burgh, as accords." llie Provost presented a petition against this interlocutor, alleging that the shutting up of the seats was the act of the magis- trates, and not his individually. The kirk-session answered, that they had no means of ascertaining by what authority he acted, but what they affirmed they offered to prove. The Sheriff then ordered the magistrates and council to be called, conjoined the two processes, interdicted them from shutting up the seats, found them liable in the expense, and reserved to them recourse against each other. The magistrates next presented a bill of advocation to the Court of Session, which was repelled, and the case remitted simpllciUr to the Shcrifi*. The magistrates acquiesced, and paid the whole expense of procedure. DUNBAK. 91 educated at a free school, which corrupts the parent and degrades the child. They ought rather to be stirred up to a sense of their duty, and prompted to place themselves and their children on an equality with their neighbours. The heritors and kirk-session pro- vide for the education of all orphan children. Library. — There is a Subscription Library, containing many hundred volumes ; and a reading-room. The mechanics also have a library of several hundred volumes. Banks. — In the town there is a branch of the British Linen Company, and also one of the Commercial Bank of Scotland. Friendly Societies, — Many of these have, from time to time, ex- isted in Dunbar; but, being established on erroneous principles, most of them were of short duration. The only one which has weathered the storm is the Sailors Society. It was established, beyond the memory of man, for the benefit of superannuated seamen and their widows. Its funds were originally derived from a duty of eight pennies on the pound Scots out of all wages paid to masters, mates, and sailors frequenting the port. This society must.have been well managed, for now it has both lands and money. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The management of the poor is committed to the kirk-session, who regularly account to the heri- tors. The number of the poor and their allowances are perpetual- ly changing. While, in other places, poor rates have increased, — here, by a stedfast adherence to the spirit of poor laws, they have been greatly diminished. The annual expenditure is at present about L. 450 Sterling, — which sum is raised, 1. by the interest of Binning's mortmain of L. 75 Sterling, paid by the burgh ; 2. by incidents at marriages and funerals ; 3. by collections at the church door ; 4. by a regular assessment. A committee of three heritors and three magistrates, with the assistance of the kirk-session, appointed to investigate the subject, lately ascertained that the total number of paupers in the burgh, and the landward parts of the parish, was 103. Of these, 86 have a settlement in the burgh ; in the landward district, 17. It was fur- ther ascertained that, of these 103 paupers, 50 were born and brought up in the burgh; in the landward district, 10; emigrated from other parishes, 43. In 1724, it was agreed between the heritors and the town, that for the year ensuing allenarly^ the town should pay one-sixth of the money raised in the parish for the maintenance of the poor, — but with a special clause, that this should not become a precedent for the future. The ot\\er ftve-sv\\\\s \?^\vi ^vLA \s^ '^^ \nkv\- 92 HADDINGTONSHIRE. tors and tenants of the landward district. This agreement was not renewed, — but different rules were adopted till the year 1774, for which and the subsequent years, the town of Dunbar has paid only one-sixth of the assessment. The attention of the heritors was at length directed to the subject by certain extraordinary claims which were made on the pftirt of the burgh. The chief magistrate claim- ed a right ex officio to give orders upon the funds ;* and if two or more baiHes attended the meetings, each claimed a right to vote. The heritors being thus called upon to look to their interest, were advised to institute an action of declarator^ to have it found ^^ that the management and maintenance of the poor of the land- ward district and of the burgh are separate and distinct, and that the pursuers, as heritors of the landward district, with their tenants and other inhabitants thereof, are not liable for the support of the poor of the burgh, but for that of the poor resident within the landward district allenarly^ and the provost, magistrates, and coun- cil, as representing the community of the said burgh of Dunbar, ought and should be decerned and ordained, by decree foresaid, to sustain and manage the poor of the said burgh according to law : Or otherwise, in the event of the pursuers failing in the above con- clusion of their action, then and in that case it ought and should be found and declared, by decree foresaid, that the power of taking up the lists of the aggregate poor, determining the assessments, and managing the funds, belongs to the meeting of heritors, provost, minister, and elders, and that the assessment to be imposed for the support of the aggregate poor shall be laid on the whole in- habitants of the parish equally, whether in burgh or landward, ac- cording to the estimation of their 'substance, without exception of persons." The action came before their Lordships of the Second Division, who ordered the opinions of the other Judges to be taken thereon. Three of the Consulted Judges having returned opinions for a separation, and six of them against it, their Lordships of the • 'Hie writer conceives it to be of importance that the terms of the letter written on tliis occasion by the Provost to the Clerk of the Poors* Funds should be here inserted. Dnnhar^ \st November 1825. Sir, — I gave an order upon you yesterday, to pay a woman twenty shillings to ae- count of the maintenance of three poor children she has had the charge of, belonging to the parish, and which order I understand you have refused to pay, nor will you as- sign your reason in writing for your refusal, but have sent me a message that 3rou have not time to write. 1 now again demand of you either to pay the order, or to state your reason why you withhold the money, as I consider a refusal a dereliction of your duty as clerk of the iMX>rs* funds, and 1 shall hold you personally responsible, and shall accordingly take the necessary steps to oblige you to account for your con- duct; and in the meantime the town of Dunbar will withhold their share of the money they have been in the practice of paying towards the itinerant poors* allow- ance, as well as the cess allocated upon the town at the last meeting of heritors. — I am, Sir, jour most obedient servant. DUNBAR. 93 Second Division, four In number, on 10th April 1633, resumed con- sideration of the case, with the returned opinions, and, unanimous- ly concurring with the minority of the Consulted Judges, decerned in terms of the first conclusion. The burgh appealed; Lord Brougham having offered, when he had ceased to be Chancellor, to hear Scotch cases, heard this one: and on his motion, the House of Lords, ]Oth April 1835, ** Ordered and adjudged, that the interlocutor complained of in the said appeal be, and the same is hereby, reversed, and it is further ordered, that the cause be remitted back to the Second Division of the Court of Session, in order that the said Court may proceed further in the said cause, as shall be just and consistent with this judgment." The kirk-session were ciilled as parties in this action, but did not appear. They arc most anxious, however, for an equitable set- tlement of the question, and the minister has never concealed his 4)pinion, that the separation contended for would eventually benefit both parties. Since it has thus been found that there can only be one roll of poor in a parish, if it shall be further found that there must also be only one management and one assessment laid on the whole inhabitants according to the estimation of their substance, this judgment may prove most vexatious even to the burghs. It directly or indirectly affects every parish in Scotland. It leaves the burghs which have landward districts without a law ; it introduces confusion into the whole system, and, there is reason to believe, that it is neither supported by the facts of tlie case nor by the acts of Parliament. The case is one of very grejit importance : and those who take an interest in it may consult the process. Lanark is about to try the same question. JaiL — The jail is in a very bad condition, and has been legally condemned ; but fortunately it is seldom occupied. Two town-offi- cers and two Sheriff-officers are all the police required in this peace- ful district. Fairs, — There are two fairs in the year, where all the usual wares and cattle are exposed : — one of them at Whitsunday, and the other at Martinmas, old style, if these days shall fall on a Tuesday ; if not, on the first Tuesday thereafter. FueL — Coal is the only fuel used, which is imported from Wemyss, Charleston, Borrowstounness, and Sunderland. Scotch coal costs from 7s. to 9s. per boll of 12 cwt. English coal from 10s. to 12s. Bccording to quality. 94 IIADDINC.TONSIllRi:. J fins, — Tliere arc two inns in Dunbar, with excellent accomofio- (lation, and there arc fifty-four persons residing within the parish licensed to sell beer and spirits, — a number by far too great Tliis is a sore evil, which h.is long been complained of, and it appears to be increasing. " There are," Sciys the judicious writer of the last ac- count, " no fewer than forty-six licensed alehouses where low-priced spirits are retailed, and where the execrable custom of dram-drink- ing is practised. This we may justly pronounce to be the bane of all good and the source of a 11 evil, — the ruin of health and morals, — and of all domestic duty and comfort, — the reproach of man, and the disgrace of woman." Miscellaneous Observations. This parish is but of small extent, but it yields a large rental. An improved system of agriculture having been early introduced, its external surface has been but little changed since the last account ; but by a copious application of manure, and by excellent cultivation, the soil has been rendered much more productive. The education — the habits and comforts of the people — the revenue of the burgh, and the rental of the parish — have all been greatly improved. The plough now in use is not the best that might be devised to pulverize the soil, especially strong clays, so as to render them most productive. One with more coulters — to cut the furrows into small pieces, would permit the roots of plants to spread more freely— render the soil more capacious of moisture, and more susceptible of heat. The nearer that field cultivation is brought to that of garden, the greater the return ; and an implement to be drawn by a horse to Dutch-hoe the stubble, as soon as the crop is carried off, and some- time before the land is ploughed, would be the most effectual remedy against annual weeds. The trench plough, invented by Mr Smith of Deanston, might be introduced here with great ad- vantage. A railway has been projected from Cairnie, in the parish of In- veresk, to the town of Haddington, and port of Dunbar. A plan and estimate have been prepared by Robert Stevenson, Esq. civil- engineer. All the hinds receive the same amount of gain — whatever be their merits as servants or workmen. It is worthy of consideration whether it would not greatly promote the interest of the farmer, as well as ultimately that of the hind, to hold out to the latter, the pros])ect of a higher allowance to such as excel. Sfptemhcr ia35. UNITED PARISHES OF GARVALD AND BARA* SYNOD CF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE, PRESBYTERY OF HADDINGTON. THE REV. JOHN SANGSTER, D. D. MINISTER.f I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — Garvald is said to be compounded of the two Gaelic words, GaVj signifying rough or rugged, and raW, a small water or bum. This etymology is exactly descriptive of the local situa- tion of Garvald ; for the village is situated upon a small water or bum, the bed of which abounds in stones. When this water is flooded, such is the force and rapidity of the stream, that it sweeps along and throws out upon the low grounds stones of great weight and size. Extent. — The united parishes of Garvald and Bara extend from east to west about 8 or 9 miles, and from north to south about 4 or 5 miles. It is bounded by Gilford, Haddington, and Moreham on the west ; by Whittingham on the north and east ; and by Lauder on the south. Topographical Appearances^ Sfc, — The figure of the parish is irregular, — it being intersected by several of the adjacent parishes. The grounds that lie in the south and north of these parishes ex- hibit in their appearance a striking contrast to each other. Those on the south are mostly covered with heath, of a mossy soil. The range of the I^immermoorhills, which in these parishes extend from east to west about 8 or 9 miles, is for the most part covered with heath, tnterspersed with large plots of grass. The grounds that lie in the north are of a deep rich clay soil, and produce excellent crops of wheat, barley, oats, &c. Those towards the east are of a fine * The pariHhes of Garvald and Bara were united in 1702. Hie late incumbent's immediate predecessor, Mr Archibald Blair, uncle of the late Lord President, preach. edt in terms of the decreet of annexation, at Garvald and Bara, per alternatat vices, till about the year 1743 or 1744, when the kirk of Bara fell into disrepair. It is now A complete ruin. \ Drawn up by Mr Tliomas Burnet, Preacher of the Gospel. 96 HADDINGTONSHIRE. IJght gravelly soil, exceedingly well adapted for the culture of luraips and potatoes; both of which are here raised to a great extent. A great part of the soil in these parishes is either of this description, or of a deep rich clay. 11. — Civil History. Land'Otcners. — The chief land-owners of the parish are, the Marquis of Tweeddale : Robert Hay, Esq. of Linpburn ; Earl of Wemyss ; Miss Hay of Nunraw ; Mr Douglas of Garvald ; and Captain Hay of Hopes. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers are regularly kept. The earliest date of the births and baptisms is 1694. The ses- sional records commence in 1721. Antiquities. — Adjoining the Lammermoor hills, are situated the ruins of Whitecastle, in the eastern boundary of the parish. In early times, this fortification was of considerable importance, as it guarded a pass from the Merse and from England. — About a mile to the north on the farm of Garvald, there is a large fortification or encampment, situated on a rising ground ; it is of a circular form, and is in circumference about 1500 feet in extent. — A little to the westward, on the farm of Carfrae, there was an encampment near- ly of the same form and dimensions. Several years ago, the stones of the encampment were dug up to enclose the farm. One of the workmen, in digging up these stones, found the brass handle of a sword, which probably had been concealed there for several cen- turies. — About two miles to the west, on the farm of Newlands, there are two large tumuli thrown up in the middle of a plain, called by the country people the Black castle and Green castle. The late Marquis of Tweeddale, many years ago, planted the spot on which they stood, with Scotch firs and some gray wood. To the west of these tumuli, there are two other encampments, — one on the farm of Park, and the other on the estate of Hopes. Mansion Houses. — There are only two mansion houses in the parish, Nunraw and Hopes. The house of Nunraw, some centu- ries ago, was a nunnery belonging to the priory of Haddington, and though modernized, still exhibits evident marks of great an- tiquity. An elegant house has lately been built at Hopes, by the present proprietor, and is pleasantly situated very near the bot- tom of a glen, and to the westward of one of the Lammermoor hills, on which there is an extensive and flourishing plantation of various sorts of trees. This plantation and several others upon the estate were raised by the late Charles Hay of Hopes, Esq. GABVALD AND BARA. 97 III. — Population. In 1801, tlic population was - 740 1811, ... - 666 1821, - - - - 707 1831, . - - - 914 It is remarkable that there has been such an increase of popu- lation, while many of the small farms have been united. The farm of Snowdon, consisting of about 1700 acres, and formerly covered with heath, is at present in a high state of cultivation, and produces excellent crops. The expense, however, at which it has been improved by Mr Bogue has been so great, that it may be doubted if he will receive any benefit from his judicious ameliora- tions of the soil, or even be reimbursed for his expenditure. His landlord, however, must afterwards reap great advantage from these improvements. It is on Snowdon where the population of the pa- rish has principally increased. Tht yttrly average of births for the last seven years is - - - 25 marriages ---.-« _-6 - - - deaths, --- -.- --15 Number of fiunilies m the parish, - - ... .184 chiefly employed in agriculture, • - . - 133 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, - SS IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Agriculture is the prevailing occupation in these parishes, — the farmers who rent the Lammermoor hills renting, at the same time, the adjacent low grounds to a considerable extent. The lands which lie on the north of these hills are mostly enclos- ed, and their agriculture is in a state of very high improvement. Lime, brought from the distance of four or five miles, is extensively used. Bone and rape manure have been, of late years, also much em- ployed for raising turnips. Draining has also been carried on to a great extent. Excellent crops of all kinds of grain are raised, but the most prevailing are those of oats and barley. Sheep, Sfc. — In winter, the number of sheep pastured in this pa- rish is about 7100 ; in summer, about the same at an average. The sheep usually preferred for the higher parts of the parish, or hilly pastures, are the Cheviot and black-faced. A cross between the Leicester and Cheviot is found to answer very well. Salving or smearing universally prevails here. About 300 black cattle have been annually fed on turnip, and sold to the butcher. Rent of Land, — The average rent of arable land per acre is L. ], 14s. on leases of nineteen years. The valued rent of the pa- rish is L. 4229, 4s. Scots. . HADDINGTON. i\ 98 HADDINGTONSHIRE. ProAget, — ^The sferage grosB amount of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows: Oats, 760 acres, 5 quarters 2 bushels, from J8s. to 27s. Wheat, 350 do. SI to 4 quarters d6s. to 44s. Barlev, 450 do. 5 do. 23s. to 33s. Turnips, 600 do. I^ 3, to L. 6, per aere. Sown grass, 760 ditto. Almost all the sown grass in the parish is used as pasture. V. — PaBOCHIAL EcONOBfT. Villages. — There were formerly two villages in these parishes, Garvald and Bara. The village of Garvald contains 273 inhabit- ants. AH the houses (except two or three) are feus at the rate of L. 3 per acre, built by masons, wrights, weavers, &c In the vi- cinity of the village there is a freestone quarry of excellent quality. Inns. — There are three public-houses in the village of Grarvald ; besides these, there is an inn at Danskine, on the great road from Haddington to Dunse. Means of Communication. — No public conveyances pass through the parish. Nor is there any post-oflSce. There is a communica- tion by carriers from Dunse to Haddington one day in the weeL The length of the turnpike road in the parish is six miles. .The bye-roads, kept in good repair by the statute labour money, are about sixteen miles in length. The bridges and fences are kept in good repair. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated at the eastern ex- tremity of the parish, and very inconveniently placed for those who reside at the west end, — the distance being about six miles. It. is old but in good repair. An addition was built to it in 1829. The church now affords accommodation for 360 persons. The free sittings in the church are for 50 persons. The manse was built in 1820, and is in good repair. The glebe consists of 13^ acres. The amount of stipend is 9 chalders, 4^ bushels, and L. 30, 6s. in money. The number of communicants at present averages 254. Notwithstand- ing the distance of many of the parishioners from the church, it in remarkably well attended. Education. — There is but one parochial school. The school- house«was repaired about two years ago, and is now in a very com- fortable state. The schoolmaster's salary is the maximum. The number of his scholars is from 50 to 60. He is not qualified to teach- Latin. There is also an unendowed school in the village ; the num* ber attending it may be from 40 to 50 : and the fees are the same 3 OARVALD AND BARA. 99 as those taken at the parochial school He also is unqualified to teach Latin. Under fifteen years of age, there are very few, if any, who cannot read and write. Above fifteen years of age, there may be a few who cannot write, but none who cannot read. Po€T and Parochial Funds, — The number of poor upon the roll in this parish is 17; many of them live in their own houses, and generally receive from 12s. to L. 1 per quarter ; some receive less. This small allowance is granted only as an help to their in« dustry, not as an encouragement to sloth and idleness. There is not one beggar within the limits of these parishes. Occasional sup- plies are, besides, granted to other families, who by sickness and misfortunes are reduced to necessitous circumstances. The mo- ney annually expended on the poor of these parishes amounts to nearly L. 80. There is certainly a disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief, as they seem to consider it degrading. Friendly Society, — A friendly society was established in this pa- lish at the beginning of the present year, for the purpose of afford- ing relief io the sick. There is also another society in the parish called the Gar\'ald Friendly Society, instituted in 1819, for the laudable purpose of raising a fund to relieve the distress of any member in the event of his cow dying. Each cow is insured to the amount of L. 10 Sterling. SqOember 1835. PARISH OF HUMBIE. PRESBYTERY OF HADDINGTON, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JAMES MACFARLANE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish was formed soon after the Reformation by the junction of the parishes of Keith and Humbie» In the end of the seventeenth century, the parish of Keith was called Keith- Symmars ; and that of Humbie, Keith-Hundeley. The origin of the name Humbie, which they bear since their annexation, is un- known. Extent, Boundaries. — This parish is partly intersected, towards the S. W. extremity, by the parish of Fala. But supposing it con- tinuous, it is an oblong of 6 miles in length, from north to south, and 5 in breadth, — containing 19,200 imperial acres. It is bound- ed on the east by the parishes of Bolton aiid Salton ; on the north by Pencaitland ; on the N. W. by Ormiston and Cranston ; oa the west and south-west by Crichton and Fala; and on the south by the range of the Lammermoor-hills. Topographical Appearances. — These hills vary in their form, soil, and elevation. Some of them are almost entirely covered with short heath ; others are green, but interspersed with mossy bogs,*— some of which have been lately dried by open surface draining, to improve the sheep pasture. Lammerlaw, which is the highest peak of the whole ridge, may be reckoned 1200 feet above the le- vel of the sea. In other parts, the height of the summit above the level of the sea is from 800 to 1000 feet. The lower end of the parish is 350 feet above the sea level, and the base of the Lammei^ moors 600, — thus producing an elevation of 250 feet across the arable ground of the parish. In the higher parts of the parish the air is sharp and cold ; but in the lower, it is more temperate. The climate is peculiarly healthful. In the centre and northern parts of the parish, less rain falls than at Edinburgh, — the pluvial clouds HUMBIE. 101 ■ -being attracted on the one side by the mountainous range of Lam- ■mermoor, and on the other by the Frith of Forth. Hydrography. — There are three brooks in the parish, each having a stone bridge of one arch. All of them issue from the hills above named, at a little distance from each other ; and on reaching the valley, they take an easterly course, — when Keith and Humbie streams meet a little below the church : and nearly two miles below, they are joined by Birns-water, which from its source forms the eastern boundary of the parish. There is abun- dance of trout in these rivulets, some of which are of good flavour. The rivulets have a quantity and fall of water sufficient for ma- chinery. Mineralogy. — There seems to be abundance of iron ore in many places ; and there are also some appearances of coal, but none has yet been wrought, — as the contiguous parishes abound in good coal, -and also in limestone. The former is got for 9d. the load, the lat- ter for Is. 8d. per boll. The soil is very various; in some places, rich and loamy ; in some, light and sandy ; in others, clayey or mossy. Still, however, by skill and industry, it yields in general fair crops of turnip and every kind of grain. 11. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Of the proprietors of Whitburgh, by far the most ancient family now resident in the parish, several were dis- tinguished for personal strength and courage, as well as for their liberality of disposition. Sir Adam Hepburn, a Senator of the Col- lege of Justice, early in the seventeenth century, was highly esteem- ,ed for his patriotic spirit and generous beneficence to the parish. *He built at his own expense the first bridge on Humbie-water, which still bears his name, and the date of 1645. He also gave in donation to the heritors to serve for a manse, — a house, which then stood close to the church, with about three Scotch acres of haugh and bank. Hugh Scott of Harden, a gentleman of extensive property and baronial hospitality, hitely succeeded to the Hep- bums of Humbie. Land^owners. — The chief land-owners are, the Earl of Hopetoun ; Sir Neil Menzies, Bart.; Hugh Scott, Esq. of Harden; and Andrew Fletcher, Esq. of Saltoun. Parochial Registers. — In former times, the parochial registers were very ill kept, — some of them having been entirely lost or de- stroyed ; they do pot reach further back than 100 years. 102 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Mansion-Houses. — Of modern buildings, the mansion of Mr Anderson of Whitburgh is the best It was built twenty-four years ago. Keith-house, one of the seats of the £arl Marshal, may be mentioned on account of what it once was, — having been a large and elegant building, according to the taste of the times, and suited to the splendour of a family then the most opulent aaid powerful in the kingdom. The timber with which it was built was a present from the King of Denmark, as a testimony of the high opinion which he had formed of the Earl when employed to treat concerning the marriage of the Princess Anne of Denmark with James VI. The ruins of a Roman Catholic chapel still remain in front of Keith House, with a cemetery attached to it, which is still used by some of the parishioners. Mr John Key nart, minister of Duffus, was vicar of Keith in the year 1595, when he sold' the living, which afforded twelve chalders of victual, and three husbands of land, for a mere trifle, to the Earl Marshal. All succeeding proprietors have kept possession of the lands. III. — Population. The population of the parish must once have been greater than at present, as some vestiges of several small villages may still be traced. Population in 1801, - . 785 1811, ... 837 1821, ... 837 1831, ... 875 The average number of iHrths for the last seven years is 15, of deaths 9, of marriages 7. There are 10 landed proprietors in the parish ; but only two of them are at present resident Their yearly rentals vary from L. 300 to L. 1500 Sterling respectively. There are 7 bachelors and 6 widowers, all upwards of fifty years of age ; and both taken together just equal the number of unmar« ried women above forty-five. ' t Kumber of families in the parish, ........ ]0O chiefly employed in agriculture ... . 12S in trade, manu&cturcs, or handicraft, • 21 It is a melancholy fact, that there are 8 insane persons in -one family, and one in each of two others ; but all of them are harm- leiss and inoffensive. The parents of these individuals are correct in their conduct and industrious, though they discover such a degree of mental imbecility as might indicate that the malady is hereditary. HUMBIE. 103 IV — Industry. Agriculture. — About 7000 acres are in a regular course of cul- tivation, and nearly 200 more might be cultivated along the face, and towardsthe base, of the Lanmiermoors ; but, owing both to the high climate and the difficulty of getting manure, these lands are very seldom ploughed ; and even when ploughed, it is chiefly for the sake of renovating the ^ras& There are in the parish about 2400 acres of hill and moor land. Humbie wood consists of 400 imperial acres of oak and birch with some beech and firs; and being contiguous to Salton wood, it presents a range of beautiful and extensive scenery to the travel- ler from the top of Soultra-hill. Plantations^ belts, and clumps on other estates extend to 100 acres more. Rent of Land. — The rent of arable land varies from L. 2, 5s. to 14s. per acre, which may make the average L. 1, 5s. The rate of grazing has greatly fallen of late years ; but hinds' cows are still rated at L. 5 for summer's grass and straw during winter. These are almost the only animals grazed at a fixed price per head, as farmers who have not sufficient pasture of their own take grass parks for the season. Tliese are now let at from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3 ; some years ago they brought from L. 4 to L. 5 per acre. This may be the reason for valuing the grazing of cattle breeding to be fed off on turnip, according to their different ages and weight, at the low rate of from L. 2 to L. 3 per head. On clover or good old natural grass, the grazing of a sheep is worth from 12s. to 16s., estimating its size and quality. Live-Stack. — Great attention has been given to the rearing of sheep, and improving their breed ; and the success has been pro- portional. The black-faced seem to be in less repute, and the Cheviot, or a mixed breed between them and the Leicester, is pre- ferred. Much improvement has also been made in the breed of cattle as well as in feeding them for the market. Husbandry. — At present, rape-dust is much used for raising wheat, and bones for raising turnip, where there is a scarcity of dung. But perhaps the greatest and most effectual improvement in husbandry has been the practice lately introduced of grazing the farm, in regular rotation, for two or three years. This county still retains its high reputation for agriculture ; but the farming capital is greatly diminished within the last ten years. Farm-houses and steadings are generally substantial and on a libe- ral scale. Great attention is bestowed on fences both by proprie- L.4690 2665 12 5876 8 671 4 1088 10 1716 - 770 13 4 1522 - 1077 60 300 ..20257 7 4 104 HADDINGTONSHIRE. tors and tenants. Hedges are raised at a great expense where the 5oil is unfavourable to them. Produce. — The following statement gives a fair average of the raw produce of the parish in ordinary years. The prices may be too high for the present year, but the unusually abundant crop will yield an equivalent. p 1850 quarters wheat at 54s. per quarter, - 1667 d^* barley at 32s. do., .... 4869 do. oats at 24s. do., ..... 357 do. pease at d2s, do., .... 31 10 bolls potatoes at 7s. per boll, ... 286 acres turnip at L. 6 per acre, 23120 stones of hay at 8d. per stone, ... 3044 sheep at lOs. each, - . . Cows and cattle at L.3, per bead, - - Gardens, - -.--.. Annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, &c. Total value of yearly raw produce, V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — The two greatest grain markets in Scotland, Had- dington and Dalkeith, are nearly equidistant, each being about nine miles from the centre of the parish. Means of communication, — The cross roads to the latter town are heavy, having several steep ascents and declivities, till they reach the great line of road to England by Blackhills. These roads are kept in a tolerable state of repair, by statute labour ; but it is contemplated to put a toll-bar on the principal one, when it will be partly altered, and otherwise much improved. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is in the very centre of the pa- rish, (exclusive of the intersected part :) it is neat and substantial. It was built in 1800, and contains about 400 sittings, all of them free. The manse was built forty-seven years ago, and was then reckon- ed of the ordinary size; but in 1822 it received a considerable ad- dition. The glebe is small but of good soil. The stipend being all in grain varies from L. 250 to L. 300, according to the rate of the fiars. The church is well and regularly attended. The num- ber of communicants is from 280 to 300. There are two Episco- palian families in the parish ; and the number of Dissenting fami*^ lies is 15. Education. — There are two parochial schools in the parish, and both teachers are well qualified for their oflSce. They have the legal salary and accommodations ; but the school fees are small, — those of the one teacher being about L. 10 a year, — of the other, fibout L. 12. 4 HUMBIE. 105 Except in the extremities of the parish, which are near some neigh- bouring school, there are no individuals in the parish residing at an inconvenient distance from one or other of the above schools. In such circumstances, there is not one of the young capable of re- ceiving instruction that cannot read ; and generally they are taught to write and countMth a considerable degree of readiness and ac- curacy. Some are taught gratis, or paid for from the poor funds. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The poor funds arise from assess- mentSy collections, and interest, &c. The lying money amounts to L. 360 Sterling. The yearly amount of church collections is small) — ^the non-residence of the heritors, and the practice of legal assessment being unfavourable to that kind of charity. The amount of assessment is from L. 60 to L. 100 per annum; but on any pressing occasions, it is considerably more. The present num- ber of paupers on the roll is 18, and the allowance given them va- ries from 6s. to 10s. each monthly, — besides occasional aid given to industrious families in distress. As might be expected from the rural simplicity and distance of the people from scenes of dissipa- tion, (there being only one alehouse in the parish,) — they are sober and industrious, but perhaps less provident than in former times, and therefore soon brought to poverty when age or distress comes upon them. When thus pressed, they shew little reluctance to apply for parochial relief. Miscellaneous Observations. Forty years ago, the real rental of the parish was L. 2700. It is now upwards of L. 6300. The increase of produce with that of prices, also, till of late years, has l)cen nearly proportional. But this great increase of product is not owing so much to more land being in tillage as to the superior and more expensive mode of cultivation. Since the above period, the number of cattle and sheep fattened for the market has been more than doubled. These are not en- tirely fed on farm produce, but partly on draff, dreg, and oil-cake. But the present aspect of things is too likely to give a check to every expensive improvement. September 1835. PARISH OF SALTON. _* PRESBYTERY OF HADDINGTON, SYNOD Of LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. ROBERT KERR HAMILTON, A. M-, MINISTER. I, — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The origin of the name of this parish is somewhat doubtful, — though it has in general been ascribed to the fact of the ancient manor having been possessed during part of the thirteenth century, by Nicolas de Soulis or Soules, one of the competitors for the Scottish Crown in 1291, (and grandfadier of the celebrated Lord Soulis of border history,) from whom it is supposed to have been originally termed SouHstown, by abbreviation Soultown, and subsequently, by corruption, Saltoun, or Salton. Extent^ BoundarieSi Sfc. — The extreme length of the parish is 3^ miles ; in breadth, it varies from 2 to 3. The number of square miles of surface, however, does not probably exceed 8w It is bound- ed on the north by the parishes of Gladsmuir and Haddington ; on the east by that of Bolton ; and on the south and west by those of Humbie and Pencaitland, from both of which it is divided by the Salton and Tyne waters. In figure, it nearly resembles an oval, of which the greater diameter extends from north to south. The regularity of the form is, however, somewhat afibcted on the eastern side, by two extensive indentations formed by the parish of Bolton. Topographical Appearances. — From the western boundary, the land rises by a gradual ascent towards the south and east, until, at its highest point of elevation, called the Skimmer hills, it reaches the height of about 600 feet above the level of the sea. From this point, which is almost in the middle of the parish, the land again declines somewhat more abruptly towards the south, until it reaches the level of the Salton and Humbie waters. On the west and north, the ground wears the aspect of riph cultivation ; the thorn hedges, often interspersed with wild roses, are neatly and tasteful- ly kept; and the beauty of some of the roads is much increased by SALTON. 107 their being bordered by different kinds of trees planted in the hedge-rows. On the southern slope of the above-mentioned height, a wood* extends for upwards of a mile and a-half, skirting the edge of the boundary stream on the south, and uniting with the equally extensive woods of Humbie. It consists chiefly of fir, birch, and oak. Towards the south-east, the aspect of the country is less fertile in vegetation, and inferior in natural beauty. Tlie gene- ral appearance, however, of this part of East-Lothian is such as, from its agreeable diversity of hill and dale, does not render it un- worthy of the appellation of the " Northamptonshire of North Britain," by which the county has sometimes been characterized.f Meteorology^ Sfc. — The temperature of the atmosphere is equa- ble, and, in the higher parts of the parish especially, distinguished by its salubrity. Many instances of longevity at present exist, and in former times they appear to have been equally numerous. *' A tradition is preserved,'' says the author of the last Statistical Account, *^ that, some centuries ago, when the plague visited, with dreadful ravages, this country, Salton was the only parish in the east of Scotland which escaped : an exception imputed to the pu- rity of the air, and the smoke of the limekilns, which, it seems, even then abounded in the parish.'' The salubrity of the climate is probably chiefly owing to the deficiency of moisture in the soil, and this again may in great measure be ascribed to the fact, that the parish, occupying a moderately elevated situation between the high range of the Lammermoors on the one hand, and the waters of the Frith of Forth on the other, is frequently exempted, by being thus placed between these two sources of nebular attraction, from the visitation of those heavy showers, to which the high up- lands on the south, and the low districts on the north, are equally exposed. Hydrography. — The parish possesses many excellent springs of water, strongly impregnated with lime ; a circumstance which, it is behoved, conduces essentially to the health fulness of the inhabit- ants, and to the general salubrity of the district The Tyne and Salton waters are the only streams of any importance connected with the parish. The latter, for nearly three miles, forms its south- • " The green-sward way was smooth and good, Through Humbie's and througli SaltouiCs wood, — A forest glade, whicli varying still. Here gave a view of dale and hill, There narrower closed, till over head A vaulted screen the branches made."— 3f0mii(nf, Canto 4. -f Chalmers* Caledonia, ii. 400. 1 08 HADDINGTONSHIRE. ern and western boundary, and is then united with the Tyne. At their confluence, the Salton is decidedly the greater stream of the two, and ought with propriety to have imparted its designation to the future course of the river. In both of these streams there is abundance of excellent trout. Geology and Mineralogy. — Strata of limestone rock pervade the whole parish in a direction nearly north-west. The degree of in- clination of the strata varies from 1 foot in 9, to 1 in 18. Petri- factions of the ordinary species of shell-fish are frequently found imbedded in the limestone ; and in some places the surface of the rock is covered with stones of a silicious quality, which, when quar- ried, are used, with advantage, as flags for pavement In other places, the rock is found to be overlaid with bastard limestone, and, what is somewhat unusual, the strata of limestone are frequently divided from each other by conjoined strata of free and whinstoue. Under the strata of limestone, there is every reason to believe, from some experiments which were formerly made, that a fine seam of coal would be found. The immediate vicinity, however, of many excellent collieries in the adjoining parishes has hitherto render^ ed any attempt to work it unnecessary. The soil is various, consisting of loam, light sand, thin clay, and strong deep clay ; but the clay soils prevail. On the west and north-west, and alongst the slope of the hill which terminates in the bed of the Tyne, the soil is peculiarly fertile and productive^ being chiefly composed of the rich loam andclay. Towards the sum- mit of the central hill on which East Salton is situated, the soil is less favourable ; but towards the southern extremity of the parish, it again in some degree recovers its former richness. Botany. — There are various plantations in the parish, of the or- dinary species of trees found in such situations. The soil is deemed peculiarly congenial to the growth of fir and oak. Beech, elm, and larch are also found well suited to the soil and climate. In the grounds of Salton, which have many features of natural beauty, and are laid out with much taste, are some fine specimens of the thorn acacia, cedar of Lebanon, and hemlock spruce.* 11. — Civil History. Historical Notices^ Sfcl — The first authentic notice of the ma- nor of Salton occurs during the twelfth century, when it was held, alongst with other extensive possessions in Scotland, by the afflu- Thcre is an orchard mentioned as existing in the lands of Herdmanston so far back as 1190 — Charter of Richard de Morx^Ule to Henry St Ctair, referred to bv Chalmers in his Caledonia. ^ SALTON. 109 entand powerful family of the De Morvillcs, who were at this period the Constables of the kingdom. The lands of Herdmaustou lay within this manor of Salton, and were granted about the year 1 190 by Richard de Morville to Henry de St Clair, who then served the Monrille family as their Sheriff.* From him, the present noble proprietor of the estate of Herdmanston is descended, in the pos- session of whose family the property has thus been for upwards of six hundred years. On the accession of Robert de Bruce, the descen- dants of the De Morvilles were forfeited, they having, with the Eng- lish monarch, espoused the interests of Balliol ; and the St Clairs from that period became tenants in chief. During the reign of Alexander IIL (about 1260) the greater part of the manor of Sal- ton proper appears to have been possessed by William de Aber- nethy, son of Sir Patrick Aberncthy of that ilk. His descendants acquired, in 1445 or 1455, the title of Lords of Salton, being then in possession of very extensive territorial grants.f In this family the manor of Salton continued till 1643, — a period of nearly four hun- dred years from the date of their first occupancy, when Sir An- drew Fletcher, better known as Lord Innerpeffer, purchased from Lord Abemethy of Salton, the present estate, — of which his lineal descendant, Andrew Fletcher, Esq. is now proprietor. Eminent Characters. — With the parish of Salton many charac- ters of distinguished eminence have been connected. Of those to whom she had the honour of giving birth, William Dunbar, the celebrated poet, was long supposed to have been one. This opinion, first maintained by Allan Ramsay, and subsequently by Lord Hailes, has been adopted by the author of the former Statistical Account, naturally misled by the error of such eminent authorities. Subsequent and more accurate investigation, how- ever, has proved the opinion to be erroneous. It appears to have originated with Ramsay in a misprint of the words " Saltone Mount" for " Falcone Mount," in the well known lines of the " Fly ting of Dunbar and Kennedy," in which the residence of the former is sup- posed to be pointed at by his poetical adversary.:]: These words • Diplomata Scotiac, pi. 75. Chart. Glasgu. 163-5, referred to by Chalmers. •f- The present Lord Saltoun derives his title from this family, Upon the death of Alexander I/ord Abemethy of Sahon in iCCO, without issue, his title, &c. descended to his cousin, Alexander Frasor of Philorth, son of Margaret Abemethy, the only daughter of George Lord of Saltoun — Sec Cra-xford^t Fecragc. I The following arc the lines in question : Kennedy, after having expatiated on his own wealth) contrasted with Dunbar's poverty, is supposed thus to address him : ** 'lliy gcir and substance is a widdy tench, On Falcone Mount about thy craig to rax. . 1 10 HADDINGTONSHIRE. have since been satisfactorily shown * to refer to Mountfaucon ^in Paris, where Dunbar resided at the period of the composition of the poem. It is evident, however, from bis own language (" Fly ting," line 110,) that he was a native of one of the Lothians, and as he is generally supposed to have been the immediate descendant of Sir Patrick Dunbar of Beill in East Lothian, there is every pre- sumption that some part of the county of Haddington was the scene of his birth ; but as to what particular locality is entitled to claim this distinction there is no evidence whatever. Patrick Scougall, afterwards well known as Bishop of Aber- deen, was the incumbent of this parish for upwards of five years* He was translated from Leuchars, and inducted into the parochial charge of Salton, 29th January 1659. In April 1664, he was ele- vated to the bishopric, "f- Henry Scougall, his son, the author of the much and justly esteem- ed work " The Life of God in the Soul of Man," was bom at Sal- ton during his father's incumbency, some time in June 1660. Equal- ly distinguished by his superior talents, and his eminent piety, he attained at an early period of life to those honourable stations which are in general reserved for age and experience. At nineteen, he filled the chair of philosophy at Aberdeen ; four years afterwardsi he accepted the living of Auchterless, where he ably and zealously discharged the functions of the holy ministry ,* and after an incum- bency of two years, being then only twenty-five, he was again re- called to his academical pursuits, and for the remainder of his life filled the oflBce of Professor of Divinity in King's College, Aber* deen. His mortal career, however, though bright and useful, was And yet Mount Falcone gallows is oure &ir For to be fleyit wi* sic a feckless face." Montfaucon was then the common place of execution in Paris ; and it is to this that the allusion appears to have been intended. Dunbar*s chcef-d'o^vres are considered to be << The Throssil and the Rois,** de- signed to commemorate the union of James IV. with Margaret of England; '^The Goldin Terge," and the " Daunce of the seven deadly sins." He has been termed by way of eminence "the Horace of Scotland," and his genius and merit as a poet have been unreservedly eulogised by almost every critic. It is to be r^retted, however^ that the meed of praise which has so lavishly been bestowed upon bun has never been qualified by the consideration, that the tendency of many of his compositions is im- moral and even pro&ne ; and if it be doubtful whether he is entitled to be designated the Horace of his country, in point of poetical genius, there is unfortunatdy little doubt that, in point of licentiousness of sentiment, the appellation is too justly merited* * For a full and satisfactory explanation of this error, see Laing's edition of Dan^ bar*8 Poems, Vol. ii. pp. 429, 32, Edin. 1834, to which we are indebted for the statements made in the text. *f* During the period of his incumbency the eldership appears to have been much more numerous in proportion to the amount of population than in more modern times* From^ the kirk-session records it appears, that in 1663-65, when the number of the inhabitants of the parish was probably under 600| there were no fewer than thirteen elders in office. SALTON. 1 1 1 bni brief: he died in 1678^ having scarcely completed his twenty- e^ ghih jBttT. To him Leighton might truly have applied his fa- vourite adage^ ^ Dm xixU qui bene vixit" Superior^ however, as a character of pubUc eminence to either of the preceding, occupying a much more distinguished place in the history of the past, and still continuing to enjoy, by the la- bours of his genius and the recollection of his moral worth, a pro- minent station in the eye of mankind is the individual, who, as the immediate successor of Scougall, next filled the office of mi- nister of Salton. The name of Gilbert Burnett, Bishop of Salis- bury, is calculated to shed a lustre, not only on that humble spot which formed the first and early sphere of liis ministerial labours, but on the country which gave him birth, and on the age in which he lived. Distinguished as he was by the remarkable vigour of his understanding, the unblemished integrity of his character, and the unequalled moderation of his public conduct^ he was eminently suited to the circumstances of the times in which his lot was cast, and peculiarly qualified to discharge those delicate and important duties, which, in after life, and in a more elevated station, frequent- ly devolved upon him. * He was admitted minister of Salton, the 29th of January 1665, having been presented to the living by the Crown.f During his incumbency, he was most assiduous in the performance of his pas- toral duties. He preached twice every Sabbath, and once during the week. In the important duty of catechising and examining his flock from house to house, and of administering spiritual conso- lation to the sick, he was equally exemplary and assiduous. He • Wodrow, after having adverted to him as one of Bishop Leighton's " evange- iMtf^'who were selected for their peculiar mission, on account of their " fame, learn- ing, and preaching gifts,'* speaks of him as '^ Mr Gilbert Burnet, well known to tlic world sioce, first Professor of Divinity at Glasgow, and after that persecuted for his appearing against Popery, and for the cause of liberty ; and since the Revolution the learned and moderate Bisliop of Sarum, one of the great eye-sores of the highfliers and Tories in England, and a very great ornament to his native country.** — Church Hwtorj, Book ii. chap. 6. Tlie only circumstance which, on looking back calmly and dispassionately on tbe erentfl of the past, tends in any degree to diminish our admiration of this eminent man i> the fiict — in his case, perhaps, the result rather of circumstances than of choice —of his having acted so conspicuous a part in the unjustifiable and impolitic attempt of the Episcopal party of the time to force upon the people of Scotland a mode of fluth and worship, which the latter conscientiously deemed to be unscriptural, and which they too justly feared would lead to a spiritual usurpation of a still more un- hallowed character. J Sir Robert Fletcher, through whose influence the appointment was obtained, wished him to accept of it nearly a year before, when it became vacant by fleoiigall's elevation to the Episcopate ; but Burnett declmed the offer, and going to Holland, spent the interval at Amsterdam in studying orienul literature and theology. 1 12 HADDINGTONSHIRE. is stated generally to have preached extempore, having, by diligent practice, acquired the power of speaking with great fluency and correctness. Arguing, however, from the character of his written productions, which are in general rough and careless in point of composition, his style of speaking was probably never characte- rized by eloquence. He left Salton, as appears from the kirk -ses- sion records, on the 18th November 1669, having been called to fill the chair of Theology in the University of Glasgow, the duties of which he discharged with approved fidelity. When elevated to a more eminent station in the church, he was not unmindful of the interests of that parish which had witnessed his early labours. He bequeathed in trust to the Lairds of Salton and Herdmanston, and to the minister for the time, the sum of 20,000 merks, to be applied in different sums as follows : for the educa- tion and clothing of thirty children " of the poorer sort ; " for the erection of a new school-house, and affording a perpetual augmen- tation of the schoolmaster's salary ; for the increase of a library which had already begun to be formed " for the minister's house and use;" and the remainder for relieving the wants of the neces- sitous poor.* The particulars connected with the present appli- cation of this fund are stated below, f By this generous bequest * The language in which, in the codicil containing this bequest, the bishop ex- presses himself, affords a i)leasing evidence that the lofty elevation which he had then attained had not taught him to forget the humble scene of his '* first love.** — « This course," he adds, after having prescribed the particulars of the destination, " I order to be continued for ever, as an expression of my kind gratitude to that parish who had the first fruits of my labours, and among whom I had all possible kindness and encouragement." •j- The present value of the bishop*s bequest is L. 2000 Sterling, which being in- vested on heritable security at four per cent., yields annually the sum of L. 80. This sum the trustees allot as follows : For the clothing of the thirty children, about, - - - L. 35 Allowed to the schoolmasters for their education, - - - 26 Books, stationery, &c. and other incidental expenses of education, - 4 For the necessitous poor according to the bequest, - - - 10 For the increase of the manse library, -.-.. 500 L. 80 As the expense of clothing has been found in general to exceed the above amounty its issue has occasionally been suspended for a year, and the surplus, where any exist- ed, applied to the department of education ; and as it is believed, that the interest of the bequest will in future be required to be reduced to 34 per cent thus mak- ing the annual proceeds only L. 70, the above arrangement will probably become permanent, and the children be clothed only every alternate year. In order to qualify fcr admission on the fund, the parents of the children who are applicants must have resided for not less than two years in the parish. According to the pro- visions of the will, the lairds of Salton and Herdmanston and the minister of the pa- rish for the time, nominate. Every child enjoys the benefits of the fund for four years. A list of their attendance at school and church is accurately kept, and if any great ir- regularity in these respectft, without suflficient cause, has taken place, the de&ulter is either struck oif the list, or, as a mitigated punishment, deprived of clothing in fbture. SALTON. 113 tbe memory of the good bishop is still perpetuated in the pa- rish. The children on the fund are familiarly termed " bishops ; " and the gallery in church appropriated for their use has receiv- ed, and is ever likely to retain, the appellation of " the Bishop's laft." Burnett lived until 17 15, having then filled the see of Salisbury for nearly twenty-six years. Salton was also the birth place and residence of another character of distinguished eminence. The celebrated Andrew Fletcher, the intrepid assertor of the civil and religious independence of his coun- tiy, was bom here in 1653. His father, who died while his son was yet in early youth, committed him, on his deathbed, to the guar- dianship of Burnett, then minister of the parish, from whom it is supposed the young patriot first imbibed those liberal sentiments on government which he ever afterwards avowed. In them, how- ever, he seems subsequently to have outstripped his teacher. The character of this undoubtedly great man has been variously repre- sented : by some he has been described as a rank republican, whose projected limitations of the royal prcrogjitive were only designed to lead to the erection of a Scottish commonwealth, and whose opposition to the union was prompted by selfish and interested motives. By others, he is represented as a man of pure and dis- interested patriotism, whose sole object was to maintain the liber- ties of his country on a constitutional basis. This is not the place to attempt to adjust the merits of the controversy. His sentiments unquestionably, verged towards republicanism, but to this extreme they were naturally led to tend, from the impression he entertain- ed, that the opposite and equally dangerous extreme was more like- ly to obtain the ascendant. The purity of his motives and the integrity of his conduct are unquestionable. His anticipations of evil as the result of the union, subsequent events have happily shewn to be fallacious. * He died at London in 1716, on his way from France to Scotland, whither he had fondly hoped to have ar- The children, however, are mostly exemplary in their attendance, and only one or two initanccs of the infliction even of the lesser penalty have occurred, llierc are at pre- sent on the fund sixteen male and eight female children, varying in age from seven to fourteen. • From an MS. in the library of the late Thomas Rawlinson, Esq., first published in the edition of Fletcher's Political Works, printed at Glasgow in 1749, we quote the following brief and somewhat quaint description of his personal ajipearance : " A low thin man, of a brown complexion, full of fire, with a stern sour look, and fifty yean old.** HADDINGTOM. II 1 1 4 HADDINGTONSHIRE. rived before he breathed his last His remains were subsequently brought to Scotland by his nephew Lord Milton. The ashes of the patriot now repose in the family vault below the aisle of Sal- ton Church. Andrew Fletcher, the nephew of the patriot, better known as Lord Milton, was also a native of Salton, being born there in 1692. He adopted the profession of the Bar, and rose rapidly through the inferior gradations of oflBce to the elevated situation of Lord Justice- Clerk. This office he held during the troublous period of 1745, and is admitted, on all hands, to have discharged its delicate and trying duties with singular lenity and forbearance. * He died in 1766 : and his remains are likewise deposited in the family vault. Chief Land-owners, — These are the following, Andrew Flet- cher, Esq. of Salton, who possesses nearly four-fifths of the land in the parish ; Lord Sinclair, proprietor of the estate of HerdmanstoD, and the farms of Greenlaw and Wester Blance; the Earl of Haddington, proprietor of the farm of Samuelston Mains, a small part of the Samuelston estate, which lies chiefly in the adjoining pa- rish of Gladsmuir ; and the Earl of Dalhousie, proprietor of the lands of Easter Blance (anciently Blanes,) which form part of the adjoining estate of Coalston. Parochial Registers, — The records of kirk-session consist of several volumes, commencing with the 27th April 1635, and con- tinuing to the present day, with the exception of a hiatus ex- tending from 1642 to June 1663, and another from 1748 to No- vember 1759. During the latter period, the deficiency is chiefly in the minutes of kirk-session proceedings; the register of baptismsy marriages, and burials being, with a few exceptions, regularly kept In the earlier portion of the records, very minute details of paro- chial transactions are inserted. The texts of the ministers' ser- mons are noted down each Sabbath. If he were absent, the place where he was officiating is mentioned, as also the name of the • Wc quote from the last Statistical Account the following remarks on his dia- racter, which we believe to be just : " The conduct of almost the whole public affiun of Scotland fell upon him, and these he managed with such an uncommon degree of discretion, temper, and moderation, that the impetuosity of wanton punishment was restrained, and lenient measures adopted in fiivour of those, whom indiscretion or ig* norance had betrayed into hostility. He overlooked many of the informations whicii were brought to his office ; and it is stated here from the best authority, that, after his death, many scaled letters, containing such information, were found unopened among his other papers. With the same patriotic views, he engaged zealously in the abolition of heritable jurisdictions, which had long been inimical to order and to justice. With unremitting ardour he pursued every scheme that could promote the trade, manufactures, agriculture, and reforming of his country." 4 SALTON. 115 dergyman who acted as his substitute at home. Many social of- fences, of a much less serious nature than those which now gene- rally form the subject of church discipline, appear to have been Tinted by the censure of the kirk-session ; and rebukes in the pre- sence of the congregation, even for such comparatively trivial de- linquencies, seem to have been universal. AtUiquUies. — In the south-west part of the parish, and close to Uie brink of the stream, are the remains of an enclosure of an oval fonn, supposed to be a Pictish or Danish camp. It consists of two walls or dikes running parallel to each other, and having be- tween them a fosse, now almost 6lled up, of about 10 yards in width. The circumference of the inner inclosure may be about 500 yards. No tradition exists by which any light is thrown on the history of this remnant of antiquity. In the park at Herdmanston, and close to the present mansion- house, are the remains of part of a chapel erected in the thirteenth eentury by John de St Clair. All that now exists of this ancient building is a portion, apparently of its western extremity, measur- ii^ within the walls, 30 feet in length, by 14 in breadth. A part of the eastern end appears to have been recently removed, and the gable rebuilt with fresh stone. It is now used as the burying vault of the Sinclair family. Within, are two flat tombstones co- vering the remains of William de St Clair, and Sibilla, his wife, bearing date 1598. A few yards to the north of this cemetery is an old arch, a fragment obviously, of the ancient castle of Herd- manston, having the date on the keystone. Herdmanston is now, and has for many years, been occupied by the Honourable Adam Gillies, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, the noble proprietor himself residing almost entirely in England. There are no documents in the possession of resident individuals which are calculated to illustrate the antiquities of the parish it- self. There is, however, in the charter- chest of the Fletchers an interesting historical document, to which I cannot forbear advert- ing. It is the original letter written by the Marquis of Argj'll to his son, on the morning of his execution. Its brevity, indepen- dently pf its intrinsic interest, will justify me in inserting it at length below.* . * M DiABi Jam KS, Edr. Castle, 30//i June [ \G]a5. " LfCarn to fear God : it is the only way to make you happic here and herMfter. Lore and respect my wife, and hearken to her advice. 'I1)c Lord bless am, your loving Father," (Signed) "Argvi.l." 116 HADDINGTONSHIRE. III. — Population. In 17^^« the population amounted to . 761 1791, .... 830 1801, .... 768 1811, . . . . 814 1821, . . . . a34 1831, males 386, females 396 784 1835, . 390, . 400 790 From the preceding statement, it appears that the population has been very fluctuating in point of numbers. The rapid dimi- nution of nearly eight per cent, between 1791 and 1801, is ac- counted for by the removal, during that period, of several public works, which employed a large number of operatives ; and also by the consolidation of some of the smaller farms into large ones. The large increase from 1801 to 1811 is explained by the fact of a different family, with a household of forty persons, then occupying the mansion-house of Salton. The decrease between 1821 and 1831 is also explained by the circumstance of Mr Fletcher's house having been rebuilt during the former period, and a large number of artisans of different kinds having been then domiciled in the pa- rish. In the village of East Salton there reside In that of West Salton - - - In landward parts of the parish. Total, - 390 400 790 The following is the distribution of the population in respect of age, &c. Single, Married* Widotced. Age, Mahn, Females. Males, Females, Males, Females, TotaL Under 15, 155 147 302 15 to 30, 85 87 12 17 1 202 30 to 50, 13 15 67 67 3 3 166 50 to 70, 1 4 35 36 5 7 88 Above 70, 3 9 3 5 10 dO Total, - 254 256 123 123 13 21 790 Yearly average of births for the last four* years, - - _ IJ Do. deaths seven - - . loA Do. marriages do. ... 5! Tlie number of families in the parish, - - - . ]7l chiefly employed in agriculture, - . 54 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 43 Belonging to the parish there is one insane person, in confine- ment at a private asylum in the neighbourhood : 2 fatuous, and 1 blind, who are resident. There are 3 families of independent fortune who reside in the parish. Of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and up- wards, there are 4, — being the heritors before-mentioned, one of whom only, Andrew Fletcher, Esq. of Salton, is resident. • For some years previous to this period the baptismal register was not accurately Males, Fefnales, TotaL 140 134 274 88 98 1P6 162 168 330 SALTON. 117 Habits and Cluiracter of the People^ §*c. — The general charac- ter of the people, in a religious and moral point of view, is on the whole exemplar}', and may be considered as above mediocrity. Within the last few years, from the period of the incumbency of the present minister's predecessor, a very beneficial change is said to have taken' place in the moral and religious habits of tlie lower orders. The young are in general well-grounded in the principles of religion ; docile in receiving instruction ; and civil and respect- fill in their manners. The inhabitants are in general attentive to the outward observances of religion, especially in their attendance on divine worship. Family worship is not, however, so much ob- served as it ought, and as we trust it may yet be. Intemperance is by no means frequent ; and for some time past the parishioners have, ahnost universally, abandoned the practice of using any spe- cies of liquor at funerals, — a resolution for which they deserve the greater commendation, as itsadoption originated entirely with them- selves* No crimes of a public nature have for years been commit- ted ; nor has the parish for some time past been found to require any constable or police officer within its bounds. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — In an economic point of view the parish may be regarded as exclusively agricultural; there being now no public works within its bounds, and the only kind of handi- craftsmen and artisans whom it supports being those whose la- bours are either indispensably required by the necessities o the population, or are directly subservient to the purposes of agricul- ture. The following statement of the agricultural economy of the pa- rish does not pretend to strict accuracy, but may be regarded as making a tolerable approximation to the truth. Imperial ]\It:iisun\ Number of acres cultivated, or occasionally in tillage, - - - 2.59(> in permanent pasture, ----- 150 under wood, chiefly artificial, ----- 4*J0 There are twelve farms in the parish, varying in extent from 100 to 500 Scottish acres. Rent of Land^ S^-c. — The rent of land ranges from L. I to L. 3 per Scottish acre. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 3 for an ox, and L. 5 for a cow. Twelve or fourteen score of sheep are generally kept at grazing for the market, or domestic use. 1 18 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Rate of Wages^ ^c. — The rate of labour for farm and other la- bourers is in summer Is. 8d, per day ; in winter Is, 6d, ; females employed in the field receive m general from 8d, to 9d. per day. The wages of shearers in time of harvest have, for the last ten years, varied from Is, to 2s. 6d, A large portion of the male in- habitants are employed as farm-servants, or, as they are provincial- ly termed, hinds. These hinds receive no stated daily wages. They are allowed from L.8 to L. 10 per annum in money; a cow's keep, equal to L. 5 ; potato-ground, and a certain Weekly allowance of oatmeal, barley, pease, and corn; in all, their yearly income, may, when reduced to money, amount to about L. 23, Twenty days' shearing is the amount of their house-rent. The wages of artisans, &c are as follows : carpenters per day, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; masons from 2s. to 3s. ; coopers, 1 4s. to 15s. per week; blacksmiths, 16s. ; bakers, 6s. with bed and board. The price of a full-mounted cart fit for use, L. 10 ; ploughs, L. 3, 3s. to L.3, 10s.; wooden harrows per pair, L. 1; do. iron per do. L.3. Husbandry. — The system of husbandry pursued in the parish is, in general, in accordance with the most approved principles adopt- ed in this highly agricultural county. The farming of the prin- cipal part of the arable land is conducted according to what is technically termed the four-course shift, viz. fallow, wheat, grass, and oats, in successive annual rotation. In some soils, what is termed the six-course shift is used, consisting of the following suc- cession; fallow, wheat, grass, oats, pease or beans, wheat or oats: and recently the five-course shift, consisting of fallow, wheat, two years grass, and oats, has been adopted apparently with much suc- cess. In these several rotations, the term fallow is used as includ- ing partial crops of turnip and potato. Turnip husbandry is not carried on to a very considerable extent, — the ground not being al- together suitable for their cultivation. At present, the quantity of land under this species of culture may amount to about 100 acres. A portion of the turnip crop is raised by the aid of bone-manure and rape-cake, which are now more universally employed than for- merly, and to a considerable extent supersede the use of lime. About one -half of the turnips are eaten ofi* the ground by sheep; the remain- der are removed for the uses of the farm-yard. The ground was in former times generally drained according to the old system ; but furrow draining has been lately introduced, and is now universally adopted, apparently with the most beneficial results. For this pur- salton. 119 pose, tiles are cliiefly employed, being supplied by a manufactory recently erected in the parish. In some places, liowevcr, owing to the vicinity of excellent quarries, stones continue still to be used for purposes of drainage. The general duration of leases is for nineteen years. Farm buildings are in general in an excellent condition. They arc built of freestone, and chiefly tiled, as, indeed, arc almost all the build- ings of this character in East Lothian, as well as the dwellings of the peasantry. The enclosures and fences are good and sufficient, and neatly kept, one-half of the expense being defrayed by the landlord, and the other half by the tenant. Quarries* — There are in the pjirish two limestone quarries, each yielding an excellent material, with lime-kilns at both, built on the most iqpproved principle. There is also a freestone quarry for the use of tlie estate of Salton, which yields a good stone for building, though somewhat of a reddish tinge. All the quarries are wrought in the usual way. The average number of men employed in the lime-quarries and kilns is about twenty-five. Manufactures. — In former times, many public works were in ope- ration in the parish, which now no longer exist. In the beginning of the last century, the first mill for the manufacture of decorticated^ or as it is familiarly termed, /;o/-barley, that was ever known in Scot- land was erected in this parish. About the same time also, the first manufactory for the weaving of Hollands in Britain was established here: and both these arts were long exclusively practised, to the great emolument of the inhabitants, who supplied the whole of Scotland with these important articles. The introduction of these manufactures was owing to the ingenuity and zeal of the lady of Henry Fletcher of Salton, who, for the purpose of acquiring the secret of these arts, travelled in Holland with two expert mechanics in the dis- guise of servants, by whom models of the machinery were taken, and afterwards applied to practical use. In the year 1750, also, the first bleachfield, belonging to the British Linen Company, was form- ed here under the pat ronjige of Lord Milton. " During his Lordship's life it was conducted with much spirit : no expense was spared in procuring from Ireland the most expert workmen, and it became at last so very flourishing as to afford employment to upwards of 100 persons.*'* Subsequently to this, a paper-mill, and a starch-work were erected in the parish, each of which, at the period of the pub- * Former Stntistical Accics of bear : and 22 Ik>11s, 1 firlot, 1 peck. ■nd 3 lippies of raeal. In 1705, it amounted to L. 84, lOs. Od., and in 1798, to L. 155^ Ss. 8d. Sterling. In the ancient T^ixai'w the church of Salton was rated at thirty merks. The following is a list of the incumbents of the parish of Salton as far back as I have been able to trace them. In 1468, when the church of Salton was attached to the Ab))ey of Dryburgh, the incumbent appears to have been a person of the name of Dewar, who also held the of- fice of dean, as he is termed, (Pari. Records, 343-r)3) <^ Dene Dewar." From this period till the era of Presbytery, I have not been able to trace any of my clerical pre- decessors. After the Reformation no stated minister ap))ears to have l>een appointed till about the beginning of the seventeenth century. Until that period, it would ap- pewTy from some incidental notices in the records of Presbytery, that the minister of the adjoining parish of Pencoitland had some share in the pastoral sui)eriiitcndencc of Salton. It is unquestionable that, in IGOl, Sulton was still without a regular mi- nister, as in the instructions given by tlie presbytery to their commissioners to the Assembly for that year, there is one obviously referring to " unplanted kirks,** in tliese words, *< Saltoun kerk to be remembcrit." it is probable that the first incumbent af« ter the Reformation commenced his ministry about 1003 or IGOti. From that pe- riod the succession is regular. 1606 (about) Archibald Livingstone : died, August 1G32. 1G33, Jan. 2, Richard Brown : deposed for speaking against the Covenant, 1(344. lG4(i. Sept. 23, Archibald Douglas translated from Baro : died 16o8. ]65f), Jan. 29, Patrick Scougall, translat- ed from Leuchars : translatetl to Bishopric of Aberdeen, April 1G(j4. 1665, Jan. 29» Gilbert Burnett : translated to Glasgow, Nov. 16G9. 1G70, April II, James Graeme : demitted his charge by refusing to subscribe tlie Test Act, Dec. 1681. 1084. *t* Au- gust, Archibald Douglas : died March 169G. 1690, Sept 24, Archibald Lundie : died 4th Nov. 1759. 1760, Nov. 6, Patrick Bannerman, translated from Kinnoul : died Slst Dec. 1790. 1791, Sept. 22, Andrew Johnston : died 23d Sept. 1829. 1830, April S2, Robert Buchanan, translated from Gargunnock : translated to Glasgow, 13th Aug. 1833. 1834, April 10, Robert Kerr Hamilton. ■f- From December 1681 to January 1083 there was no public worship in the church of Salton. At the latter date Mr Douglas was admitted interim preacher, which office he fifled till his ordination. 1 24 HADDINGTONSHIRE. The whole adult population, with the exception of thirty per- sons, arc members of the Established Church ; and of these thirty, five are Episcopalians, who regularly attend the parish church. Divine service is in general numerously attended ; and although, as mentioned above, the amount of church accommodation is more than what is legally required, yet, so exemplary are the parishioners in this outward observance of religious duty, that the church is not at present suflBcient to accommodate all who are in the habit of at- tending. During about half of the year, there are two diets of pub- lic worship every Sunday ; during the remainder, there is one of somewhat longer duration. There are, besides, services on week- days, amounting, in the course of the year, to about thirty. The average number of communicants admitted at each of the three last half-yearly celebrations of the sacred ordinance is 7, The present gross amount is 306. The sacrament has, for the last four years, been dispensed twice a-year, on the first Sabbaths of February and July. The brief period of the incumbency of the present minister does not permit him to form any extensive average in regard to the amount of charitable collections. During the last sixteen months, there have been two congregational collections for religious and benevolent purposes, the average amount of each of which was L. 9, 7s. Religious Societies. — There are two societies in the parish for the promotion of religious objects. One, based on principles of a catholic nature, has for its object the dissemination of evangelical religion at home and abroad, irrespective of the interests of sect or party. It is yet in its infancy, having been instituted only du- ring the present year. Its annual income cannot, therefore, be estimated, but the number of its members is considerable, and daily increasing. The other is of longer standing, and has been more exclusively employed in promoting the interests of dissent ; it has latterly been on the decline, and has now few supporters in the parish. Education. — There are two schools in the parish. Of these, the parochial school is situated in the village of East Salton, the cen- tral point of the parish. The branches of education taught in it are, English, English grammar, geography, history, arithmetic, writing, French, and Latin. All these departments of education are con- ducted by the parochial teacher with ability and eflSciencv. The 3 SALTOX. 125 expense of education per quarter is, for Encrlisli and grammar, &c. ds. with the addition of writing and arithmetic, 5s., and with that of Latin, 6s, TTio parochial schoohnastcr's cmohuncnts as teacher are, from Bishop Burnett's fund, L. 6 ; legal salary, L. 84, 4s. 5d. ; school fees, &c. L. 20; three roods of ground, L. 2; total L. 62, 4s. 5d. The other school is situated in the village of West Salton. The branches of education taught in it are English, English grammar, arithmetic, writing, book-keeping, and the elements of land-survey- ing. These branches of instruction are likewise well taught. The expense of tuition is the same as in the parochial school. The teacher's emoluments are, from Bishop Burnett's fund, L. 20 ; school fees, L. 20 ; per centage as heritors' clerk, L. 8 ; one and a-balf acre of land bestowed by the late General Fletcher, value L, 4, 10s ; total L. 52, lOs. The school-house at West Salton is a neat and spacious build- ing, erected by General Fletcher about thirty years ago. The parish school-house is not so large nor so commodious, and would require to be considerably increased in size. The parochial teach- er's house possesses the legal accommodation. In each of the schools, in addition to the above-mentioned branches of educiition, the Holy Scriptures are daily read, and the Shorter Catechism taught. The meetings are opened and closed with prayer. The following is the state of attendance. E. Siilion, W. Salton, Total. MHximum attendance, - - - 70 80 ]5() IVfinimum do. - - - - 58 Gfi 124 Average,* - 60 75 142 Proportion of mtfxtmMm attendance to population of parish, - 5^ Proportion of average do. to do. ... 5 i I am not aware that there is any inhabitant in the parish up- wards of fifteen years of age who has not been taught to read and write. Between the ages of six and fifteen there is none of either sex who cannot read, and only a very few who have not yet begun to be taught to write. There is a Sabbath school taught in the church, attended by 125 children. Of these, 30 are beyond the age of attendance at the day schools. If they be added to the numbers already men- tioned, the gross amount of young persons in the parish receiving • The reason wliy the averaj^c is stated higher than the medium between the maxi- mum and minimum', is !K»eause the maximum attendamce continues for a much longer portion of the year than the minimum ; to e!»timate which, therefore, a proportional- ly liigher average must he taken. 126 HADDINGTONSHIRE. instruction, daily and weekly^ will be 180: a large proportion to a population of 790, being at the rate of about 1 in 4j\ of the whole inhabitants. Libraries. — At Salton-Hall, there is a fine library of upwards of 5000 volumes, consisting of works of general literature, but containing few of more recent date than the middle of the last century. Amongst its literary curiosities, may be mentioned a small folio copy, of the original edition of " Locke on Human Understanding," with the words " Andrew Fletcher, from the Author," written on the title- page, probably either by the philosopher or the patriot Allu- sion has already been made to the library mentioned in Bishop Burnett's will " for the minister's house and use." It appears to have been originally commenced by a person of the name of Nor- man Leslie, probably about the year 1650. Who this person was, I have not been able satisfactorily to ascertain. A Norman Leslie, a preacher of the Gospel, is mentioned in the records of the pres- bytery of Haddington, in 1644, during a vacancy in the living of Salton, as the person whom, along with a Mr Mill, the congrega- tion wished to hear as candidate for the church ; but neither of these were permitted to preach. It is not improbable that this was the person in question, and as he appears from the presbytery records to have been well known to Sir Andrew Fletcher and the parishioners, we may suppose him to have been a resident in the parish or its neighbourhood, — who was interested in its welfare, and who, although not permitted to become its pastor, was generous enough to devote a part of his own literary possessions to the be- nefit of those who should in future enjoy that ofiice. In all the oldest volumes in the library his name is written, and beneath it the words oi>x a/tfp^^oxe^dwj, aXXa 'r^o6v/n,ui' Is it too fanciful, from this to conjecture that, during the long vacancy in question, he might have voluntarily and gratuitously ministered to the spirit- ual necessities of the parish, and have thus recorded his disinte- rested labours? But this is mere conjecture. At the time of Bishop Burnett's induction, the library appears to havo c*^*^' * .cd 145 volumes. From him, it received considerable adu^.tons; and from the year 1760, when his bequest first became available, it has been augmented by each successive incumbent, though, in some instances, it must be confessed, not with all the judiciousne^ of choice which might have been expected. It now contains 862 vo- lumes, consisting chiefly of works on theology, with some in clas- sics and history, and a few in polite literature. S ALTON. 127 About a year ago, a library was begun to be formed for the use of the SablMith scholars. It now consists of 130 volumes, chiefly of works of a religious character. They are eagerly read by the yooDg people, and in many instances by their parents also. It is to be hoped that, under the Divine blessing, this may be found a means of advancing the moral and religious welfare of the young, who appear in general, from the commencement of this little in- stitution, to have imbibed a greater desire for serious and profitable reading. A branch of the East Lothian Itinerating Libraries is also established in the parish. For the past year, the number of sub- scribers amounted to 22. Friendly Societies. — There are two societies of this kind in the parish. One, established upwards of thirty years ago, consists at piesent of 200 members, and has funds to the amount of L. 1000. Of this sum L. 700 are lent on private security at 4 per cent and L. SCO are in a bank at 2^. The annual subscription of each mem- ber is 6s. 6d. The present annual income of the society, there- fore, including interest and subscriptions, is L. 100, 10s. For the last year, its disbursements amounted to L.74, 18s. dd. The ave- rage number of individuals receiving relief is 23. The following is the scale by which its disbursements are regulated : In the first three months of sickness, the member receives 5s. per week ; for the next three,'should his illness continue, 4s.; for the three thereafter, 3b.; and for the remaining three, 2s.; and should his indisposition be protracted beyond the year, Is. 6d. a-week thereafter. On the death of a member, L. 2, 10s. are given for funeral expenses, and lOs. on the death of a child under twelve years of age. An allowance of 15s. per annum is bestowed on the widows of members as long as they continue unmarried. This society is in a very prosperous con- dition, and, as is evident from the number of members, has many contributors beyond the limits of the parish. The other society is formed on a somewhat different principle, but is not less popular than the former. It differs from the other in being a yejjyly and not a permanent association. Each mem- ber 8ubscril0r from Is. 2d. to 3s. 2d. weekly. The twopences form the Amd whence the members in distress are relieved, and at the end of every year, a general distribution takes place, when each member receives back the amount he has subscribed in shillings, and a portion of the surplus, if there be any, of the weekly pence. The society thus combines, in some measure, the principle of the savings bank with that of the friendly association. Its scale of 1 28 HADDINGTONSHIRE. relief is nearly the same as that already mentioned. Since Janu- ary 1827, when this association was instituted, till the present year, the number of its members has increased from 45 to 146. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of persons at present receiving regular parochial aid is 15, being at the rate of about 1 in 53 of the whole population. The average weekly allowance to each of these paupers is Is. 9d. For some years past there has been a re- gular assessment, the amount of which at present is L. 60, exclusive of L. 20 for the guardianship and support of a lunatic^ The amount of church door collections and mortcloth dues for the year end- ing April 1835, was L. 18, lis. iHd., and when to this is added the sum of L. 10 from Bishop Burnett's bequest, the whole an- nual expenditure for parochial purposes will be L. 88, 1 Is. 1 l^d. There does not appear to be, I regret to say, any reluctance or indisposition on the part of the poor to seek parochial aid. For- merly, I am informed, it was not so. At one time, it was difficult to get parents to solicit for their children the benefits of the Bur- nett fund, but now the number of applications in general exceeds that of vacancies ; and, with few exceptions, the s^me change has taken place in regard to the application for general parochial relief. The existence of a legally claimable provision will, it is to be fear- ed, tend everywhere more or less to produce its usual pernicious effects on the natural benevolence and moral independence of the people. Inns. — There are three persons in the parish licensed to retail spirits ; but there arc only two public-houses, neither of which, I am happy to say, have for some time been much frequented. Fuel, — The inhabitants are well supplied with this important necessary of life. Coals are cheap, and easily procured from the adjoining collieries, chiefly of Pencaitland. They cost, including carriage, 5s. 6d. per cart of 12 cwt. Wood is also not unfrequent- ly used for fuel. Mr Fletcher, with considerate kindness, per- mits the inhabitants of the parish who choose, — to gather fuel, at different times in the year, from the thinnings of the great Salton wood; a permission which often serves to cheer the poor man's hearth during the inclemency of winter. Miscellaneous Observations. The chief improvements in the agricultural condition of the pa- rish which have been effected since the date of last Statistical Ac- count (1792) are, — the introduction of the new manures, by which a much greater amount, as well as a superior quality, of produce 8ALTON. 129 is now raised ; the adoption of the improved system of tile-drain- ing; and the consolidation of the numerous small farms which pre- ▼ioiuly existed into a lesser number of larger ones. The fences and inelosures are also much better kept than formerly, and in no part of the country are they superior either in appearance or efficiency. Hie parish roads are Ukewisc greatly improved, and at all times afford a safe and easy means of communication. The comforts of the people have here, as elsewhere, been in- creased by the increased cheapness of the commodities in general requisition. In a moral point of view, the removal of the public works already mentioned has had its effect in altering, and in some degree, it is believed, in improving, the character of the popula- tion. The chief, and almost only social vice which still exists is that of illicit connexion — a vice, it is to be feared, unhappily pre- filent in almost all the rural districts of Scotland. The secon- dary causes to which, it appears to the writer of these remarks, the prevalence of this vice in this part of the country is chiefly owing, are, in the ^^^ place, the very inadequate accommodation afforded by the dwellings of the peasantry, few or none of which contain more than a single apartment, in which the whole members of the fiunily, although of opposite sexes, are obliged habitually to reside ; a circumstance, it is obvious, which must naturally produce a dis- regard to the modesty of domestic intercourse, and consequently lead to a relaxation of social morals : and, in the second place, the too general practice of employing young females in out-field work, where they are associated with persons of the opposite sex, and where unsuitable intimacies are too frequently eiisily formed. Both of these causes it is in the power of individuals almost entirely to remove ; and to the means of doing so the attention of the pro- prietor and the agriculturist cannot be too seriously directed. September 1835. HADDINGTON. PARISH OF ORMISTON. PRESBYTERY OF DALKEITH, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JAMES BANNERMAN, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries^ Extent — The parish of Ormiston is bounded by Pencaitland on the east ; Humbie on the south ; Cranston on the west ; and Tranent on the north. It is about 5 miles in length, and very irregular in breadth, varying from 1^ to about \ mile; its narrowest part being on the eastern extremity ; and its broad- est at the centre. It contains an area of 5 square miles English, and has some resemblance to a horse-shoe winding about Pencait- land on the north, west, and south. Name. — It was originally possessed by a family of the name of Orme ; hence the name of the parish. In 1 648 the barony of Peaston, or Paiston, as it is uniformly written in the old records, was dis- joined from Pencaitland and annexed to Ormiston. Topographical Appearances, — The general appearance of the parish is flat and low. The extensive woods about Ormiston Hall, blended with those of the adjoining estate of Fountainhall, the patches of wood in different places, and the hedge-row trees over itii whole extent, give it a very rich and beautiful appearance. These circumstances, however, prevent that free circulation of air which is so favourable to the crops. Meteorology. — It appears, from observations regularly made by the gardener at Ormiston Hall In 1821-22, at 10 p.m. that the ther- mometer in December and January twice reached 31° each month, and was not lower in the course of the season. Its greatest height, that year, was in the beginning of June, when the thermometer stood for some days at 68" and 68 J°. It reached the same height about the end of July. Its range during the months of June and July, was from 49' to Q^\°. In 1822-23, the thermometer ranged for several days in the end of December from 24° to 29°, and from 12th to 28th January, from 22° to 30^. In June and July that year it ranged from 44° to 63°. Its greatest elevation was on 1 2th August, when it rose • Drawn up by the former incumbent, the Rev. John Ramsay. ORMISTON. 131 to64?. In 1827-28) the observations were made at nine o'clock a. m. and p. M. : (hat season, the range of the thermometer during the monthsof Decemberand January was from 28'' to 5 1^ It was seldom lower than d2°. Its range in June and July was from 46° to 68°, which was the highest point that season. The range of the baro- meter that year was from 28.5 to 30. But it was chiefly from 29. 1 to 29^ From a register of the winds kept at the same place it appears that, from 20th December 1822 to 29th January 1823, the wind was easterly, with the exception of six days. The most prevail- ing wind, however, was S. W. and W. In 1821 the wind was easterly in the months of April and May, but in the other months the south wind prevailed. In January and February 1828, there were three weeks of east wind, but in the course of the year the Su W. was by far the most prevailing. From that quarter, too, the greatest nuns usually proceeded. Hydrography. — The parish is every where well supplied with water,' abounding in springs of different qualities. Some of them contain a considerable quantity of iron. Others, proceeding from lime rock and gravel, are of a softer quality. Both of these kinds are found sometimes within a few yards of each other. It is wor- thy of notice, that in the village of Ormiston, there is a spring, which has been long used as a draw-well, containing a consider- able portion of iron. Several old men who were accustomed to use the water of that spring have been afflicted with gravel com- plaints, while such complaints are rarely met with in other parts of the parish. Whether, and how far the water contributed to these complaints, is a matter that yet remains to be investigated. The only river in the parish is the Tyne, which runs through it in a north-easterly direction. It rises in Middleton moor, in the parish of Borthwick, about eight miles to the south-west. When it passes Ormiston, it is but a paltry stream, the greater part of it in summer being drawn off* to supply the mill. It is occasionally swelled by westerly rains, so as to overflow its banks and cover the adjacent meadows. It is increased, in its progress, by the addition of several streams which fall into it from the south ; and, after a course of about twenty miles, flows into the sea a little below Tyn- ninghame, near Dunbar. The bed of the river where it passes Or- miston is upwards of 250 feet above the level of the sea. Geology aiid Mineralogy. — The parish abounds with coal and limestone. The coal has been wrought from a very early period, 1 32 HADDINGTONSHIRE. chiefly in the neighbourhood of Ormiston Hall. This appears from the sinking of the surface in different places. The ground on which the house stands has all been excavated : and in 1812, the ser- vants were, one morning, surprised at seeing a large hole close by the kitchen, which opened into a waste that extended 16 feet below the ground floor of the kitchen. With the view of examin- ing and clearing out this waste, a mine was cut through from the face of the bank, in the ravine called the Haining, close by the house on the north. When this mine in the course of operation was carried near the waste, a great body of water suddenly burst out and forced the miner before it at the risk of his life. The waste was cleared out and solidly built up, a drain being left at the bottom of the different branches of it, to carry off the water, — by which means the house and court were rendered quite secure. This operation required no less than 310 cart load of stones to com- plete it. On the south of the Tyne, there are three workable seams of coal, the uppermost of which is from 28 to 30 inches thick. It is not known at what time a large proportion of this coal had been wrought. The second seam is from 30 to 33 inches thick, and is of a good quality. Much of this seam is already wrought out, but there is still a portion remaining in the pleasure grounds, and the large wood to the south-east of the house. The third or under seam is from 33 to 43 inches thick, the working of which is at pre- sent going on under many disadvantages. The lower half of its roof is of weak tender blaes, which permit only very narrow rooms to be driven in the coal ; and one-half of the seam is fit only for lime coal. These seams have all along been wrought by means of a free level. The elevation of the coal seams is one in sixteen, towards the south-east. No pit has yet been sunk in the low ground near the river, although some of the best informed colliers are of opinion it might be wrought there tq great advantage ; and were, the projected line of road from Pencaitland to Whitehouse mill to be carried through, this change of the road would be at the same time beneficial to Ormiston, and profitable to the proprietor. On the north of the Tyne, within the parish, the seams of coal are all entire, except some cross workings of small extent, of which no record is to be found. In the year 1822, when a well was sunk in the south corner of a field occupied by the factor, close by the gfebe, a seam of coal 4 feet thick was met with, at only a few feet from the surface ; but no attempt has yet been made to trace it out. ORMISTON. 133 4 rocks abound towards the southern extremity of the pa- ly nmning nearly from east to west, and dipping towards the north. At what time it began to be wrought I liave not been able to ascertain. It appears, however, from an account of the paristi in 1627, that at that time it was not known that there was either lime or coal in the parish, or even in the neighbourhood.* Lime is BOW, however, found in great abundance, all along the direction from Salton to the western extremity of Crichton parish. In the louthem extremity of the parish of Ormiston, it has been wrought for a great number of years, and is gencndly found in eight beds in all about 15 feet thick. The bottom bed is usually found to be of an inferior quality. There is abundance of freestone in the parish. Several quarries of it bad been wrought at different times. One was opened a great many years ago, on the north bank of the glen, to the north of the House of Ormiston Hall. The stone of this quarry was very coarse and friable. From it, the manse and several other buildings were supplied with stones. Another quarrj- of post-freestone, at the western extremity of the parish, was opened in 1808. The rock of this quarry, which is composed of several strata, is 13 feet thick, and is harder, and of a finer quality than the other. From it, the proprietor is supplied with stones for carrjing on his buildings, and in particular, a great proportion of the stones em- ployed in the addition lately made to the House of Ormiston Hall were procured from this quarry. If we may judge from the quality of the springs, ironstone may be found in different places ; but no attempt has ever been made to discover itf Soil. — There is a considerable diversity of soils in the parish. A small breadth on either side of the Tyne consists of a light loam on a gravelly bottom. As you proceed from the river, it changes into a stiff clay upon a till bottom. Part towards both the northern and southern extremities of the parish is of a bleak and obdurate quality, but is gradually improving by cultivation. About the village the soil is a light loam upon gravel. In the same tract, westward, bounded by the Tyne on the south, and a small stream on the north, the middle and greater part of it is of a stiff clay, • •• ITie truth 'in, there is no other lyinestone, nor lymcoill wiUiin the parocho but that quhilk with great travcll they fetch coming and going eight myllej*." — Account of Ormiston 16*27, svc. 15. t The author m indebted for much of the information contained in the article gaologj, to Mr Scott, factor to the proprietor. 134 HADDINGTONSHIRE. and both sides of a light loam of a spungy quality. A similar va- riety of soils is to be found in the southern and higher part of the parish ; a great portion of which by good management has been brought from a barren moor to a state of high cultivation. On the western part of the parish, there is a portion of meadow land, . about ten acres on both sides of the Tyne, producing very good natural grass, which is first cut and then pastured. It would ap- pear, that, in ancient times, the inhabitants of Ormiston were sup- plied with meadow hay from that quarter ; for it is stated in the old Account already referred to, that they pay " zeirlie for their wester meadow haye, 280 merkeis." The present tenant at West Byres lately made an embankment where the river runs along his farm, to prevent its overflowing, and has ploughed up and sown the meadow ground. The experiment has not yet had sufficient time to shew its effects.* Botany, — The limits of this article will not admit of a particu- lar enumeration of the plants of the parish. A few, however, of the rarer kinds that are indigenous may be mentioned. These are Scolopendrium vulgare et officinale^ Iris Pseud-Acorus et fcetidissi" ma^ Cucubulus Behen^ Solanum nigrum et vulgatum^ Cardamine amara et pratensis^ Adoxa moschatellina^ Anemone nemorosa^ Put' monaria officinalis^ Viburnum Lantana, Sium angustifolium^ Epilo^ bium hirsutum^ Chrysanthemum segetum. Ormiston abounds with excellent gardens, in which all the com- mon fruits are to be found. When the house of Ormiston Hall was enlarged and fitted up for the Dowager Lady Hopetoun, who now occupies it, the half of the garden was taken away and convert- ed into a flower garden ; which garden has been well laid out by the present gardener, and contains above 500 species of herbaceous plants, above 110 species of evergreen and deciduous shrubs, and 270 sorts of roses, besides about 70 or 80 sorts of annual flower seeds, and a considerable quantity of Dutch flower roots. The garden at Ormiston Hall is chiefly taken up with fruit * Nothing is so hurtful to the crops in this parish as mildew. Whole fields last year were rendered almost useless, and not a season passes without more or less in- jury being done by it. It is confined to the lower district of the parish, and prevails chiefly in a range along the east, north, and west of the village, beginning at the Tyne, and sweeping in a circuit of about a quarter of a mile broad, round the vil- lage to the Tyne again. The prevalence of this local disease about the village of Ormiston has been ascribed to barberry trees, interspersed in the hedge-rows, and also to the confined situation, which is flat and surrounded with numerous hedge-rows 8 700 14(i llADDINCJTONSlllUE. inhabitants was about 600. From that time the popuhition has been constantly decreasing. This circumstance may be easily ac- counted for. About the middle of the last century, it had a bleach field, a starch-work, a brewery, and distillery ; now, there is no public work of any kind, and little employment for either trades- men or labourers. It is very healthy, and indeed may be said to enjoy every natural advantage for domestic comfort. Though not a market-town, it is not inconveniently situated with regard to markets, having Haddington on the east, at the distance of about 8 miles, Dalkeith on the west, at the distance of 6 miles, Edin- burgh, at the distance of 12 miles. Last winter a corn-market was established at Tranent, which may be of great advantage to the parish of Ormiston. By a late measurement^ the distance from the cross to the post-road at Tranent was found to be exactly 2 miles 2 furlongs and 152 feet. Although the village is well supplied with water, all the principal inhabitants having wells belonging to them, there is no good pub- lic well for the accommodation of the poorer clases. There was formerly an open public well in the wynd, which contained at all times an abundant supply of water ; but, to prevent the danger of children falling into it, it was covered up about ten years ago, and the water was conveyed by a pipe to the foot of the wynd. This alteration, in respect of the supply of water, has been prejudicial to the inhabitants. The cross stands in the centre, rising 15^ feet above the level of the street. Means of Covimunicatioiu — There is a post-oflice in the village, which is kept up entirely by the inhabitants, every family subscrib- ing a small sum annually, or paying something for every letter and newspaper. It communicates with the post-office at Tranent once a-day, and there receives the letters and newspapers from the Lon- don mail. The turnpike road runs through the parish from north to south for about five miles, and is twice intersected by the parish of Pen- caitland. About fifteen years ago, John Earl of Hopetoun, hav- ing procured a subscription, and added, himself, what was neces- sary to complete the work, got three small bridges erected upon the public road in the immediate vicinity of the village, one over a little stream to the north, called the Puddle-burn, where, in floods and meltings of the ice, the road was very much obstructed. The others were built immediately below the mill, about 20 yards dis- tant from each other, where the road was constantly covered by OUMISTOX. H7 the water coming from the mill trough, and in frost and the melt- ing of snows was hardly passable even by horses and earriatres. Foot-passengers used to go round close by the wall of the mill. The road between them and at both ends was raised to a level with the bridges. This formed one of the greatest improvements that had been made in Ormiston for many years. With the view of keeping the turnpike road in good repair, two additional tolls were erected, one at the church, the other about a mile south of Tranent. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated at the point where the roads from Ormiston and Paiston unite towards the west, about a mile and a-half south-west from the village, and also from the manse, which is in the village. It is within little more than a quarter of a-mile from the western extremity of the parish, three miles from the eastern, and two and a-half from the northern. The old church was more centrical. It was situate close bv the house of Ormiston Hall to the west ; and it and the church-vard were both within the orchard of the proprietor. And as Mr J^^in- clair states, in the account given inlo the Presbytery, in IG49, the inhabitants had no other way of getting into the church-yard than by the Laird's garden door. The church-yard also was represented as too small for the parish. The aisle attached to it is still stand- ing in pretty good preservation. Were a now church to be built, an excellent situation for it would be found on a field of flat hiorh land immediately to the west of the village. Its present situa- tion is very inconvenient for the minister and tlu* greater p;irt of the population, who are not nearer it than a mile and a-half. It was built in 1696, in a plain style, with a small belfry, and no ornaments. It is cold and damp, and very uncomfortable in winter ; but of late has been considerably improved. At first, it was only partially seated, families providing themselves with chairs and stools as they found it convetiient. The area in the centre of the church was in that state twentv vears at^o, — about which time it was filled up with good substantial pews ; and it was not till last winter that the seating was complete. It affords accommodation for 300 per- sons. The seats are all free ; some of them are appropriated to particular families, but a considerable ])roportion tire common. The church-yard is perhaps the smallest in the country, being only about 46 yards by 24, including the church and offering-house. An additional piece of ground wjis kept in reserve for it by the Earls of Hopetoun, but only a small part of it has been taken in. The soil is a retentive clav and verv wet. M or t -safes arc used for 148 HADDINGTON SHIHE. the protection of the dead, ami arc reckoned of a very good con- struction. The niansc is situate on the north side of the village, towards the east end. In 1779, during the incumbency of the late Mr Col- ville, the upper flat of the old manse was taken down, and two new flats were built upon it, with a projecting wing behind, 6f the same height with the rest of the building. The garden lies to the north ainl east of the manse, is inclosed with a stone wall, and stocked with fruit trees. There are two tall lime trees at the bottom, planted about the year 1680, by Mr Sin- clair, then minister of the parish, which are still in great vigour. The minister has the privilege of a road leading from the back- court^ round the garden to the glebe. That road was attempted to be stopped by the neighbouring feuar, but it was secured two years ago by a process before the Sheriff*. The glebe contains about 7^ acres of ])retty good land. Ori- ginally it lay all behind the garden, divided into three small fields. But about the middle of the last century, the remotest field, some of which was low and marshy, was excambed for another imme- diately to the east of the street of Ormiston, which is now the best part of the glebe. It is all inclosed, but the fences are getting old and insufficient. There is coal below it, at no great depth ; but for want of a level it cannot be wrought without an engine, and there- fore is not likely to be turned to any account. The stipend is ten chalders of grain, and L. 41, 13s. 4d. of money, with L. 8> 6s. 8d, for communion elements. From a want of teinds, it would not have been what it now is, had not James Earl of Hopetoun, sole heritor, allowetl it to be twice augmented during the incumbency of the late minister, that it might not fall below others in the neighbourhood. The last augmentation was given in 1808. There are no Dissenting meeting-houses in the parish. The number of families belonging to the Establishment is 168. There are 19 families belonging to the Secession, who frequent different meeting-houses, and a few are connected with no church. Some of the servants in families connected with the Establishment belong to Dissenting congregations, and vice versa. The average number of communicants for the last twelve years is 270. A parish Bible Society was instituted in 1817, the funds of which for some years, upon an average, have amounted to L. 6 a- year. While the greater part of this sum has been generally sent to the East Lothian Bible Society, a small part has always been ORMISTON. 149 given to the Edinburgh Missionary Society- A part of the funds also is reserved for purchasing Bibles and Testaments to the poor of the parish who need them. The ordinary collections at church amount to about L. 12 a- year; besides which, collections are occasionally made for religious and charitable purposes, amounting to about L. 15 a-year. Education. — There are, at present, three schools in the parish. — The parochial school in the village of Ormiston, the master of which has a salary amounting to L. 29, 18s. 9-^d. lie has also L. 1, 7s. 9^. of mortified money, with a house and garden. The house has two flats. The school occupies the under : the upper, which is divided into several apartments, serves for the dwel- ling-house. The garden being smaller than the law requires, the schoolmaster receives an adequate compensation for the defi- ciency. At present, the fees received amount to only about L. 15 a-year. But they may easily amount to more than double that sum. There is another school at Paiston, three miles south from tho parish school. It is of very long standing, being mentioned in the earliest records of the parish. The schoolmaster has L. 1, 5s. yearly of mortified money, a free house and school-house, and a small sum of money as a salary given gratuitously by the proprie- tor, — besides the school fees, which upon an average amount to betwixt L. 15 and L. 20 a-vear. A school was instituted two years ago by the Dowager Coun- tess of Hopetoun, at House of IMuir, a small village chiefly inha- bited by colliers. The schoolmaster has a free house, a small sa- lary from her Ladyship, and the school fees. It has succeeded re- markably well, and been of great benefit to the parish. From there being three schools in such a small parish, it is evi- dent the means of education must be accessible to all. None are precluded by distance from attending school, andifanyi)arentsare so poor as not to be able to pay for the education of their children, the school fees are jxiid for them. It is not wonderful, therefore, that there should be no children betwixt six and fifteen years of age who cannot read or write. Above that age, there are several who cannot write, but verv few who cannot read. But though much has, of late, been done and written to promote education, it does not appear that the schools in this neighbour- hood at least are actuallv more thriving than they were a centurv 150 IIADDINGTONSHIRK. ago. From the parish record, it appears that the schools of Or- niiston and Paistoii were both in a flourishing state about the be- ginning of the last century ; that great attention was paid to the in- struction of the young; and great care taken that parents should have their children educated. From the record, it also appears that, in 1683, there was a library belonging to the parochial school, con- sisting of 60 books in Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, as well as Eng- lish. It was then taught by Mr James Grierson, who was after- wards ejected from his oflice. About that time. Principal Carstairs received his education in the house of Mr Sinclair, then minister of the parish. Libraries. — For some years the parish has been supplied with itinerating libraries from Haddington. One is stationed at Ormis- ton, another at Paiston. They continue in their stations two years. They are then returned, and new ones are sent in their places. The great advantage of these libraries has hitherto been, that the books are lent out gratis, and the libraries are frequently shifted. A re- gulation, however, has just been made, that, during the first year of their station, payment shall be taken for the reading of the books. This circum^:tance has produced a desire among some of the people to have a parochial subscription library, which, if once begun and well supported, may become in a few years a great acquisition to the place. There is a library belonging to the Friendly Association or Rogue Money Club, instituted for the protection of property, — which is kept in the school-house under the charge of the master. This society originated in 1784, with some respectable persons residing in Or- miston and the vicinity, who formed themselves into a society for the purpose of preventing depredations and disturbances, and pro- moting the police and good order of the place. The Earl and Countess of Hopetoun were among the original subscribers. It has, however, very much degenerated from what it originally was, and is confined in its operations to the carrying on of prosecutions against those who have committed depredations upon the property of the members. A part of the funds has been laid out in the purchase of books, and in 1817 a portion of the subscription money was set apart for that purpose alone. The library now consists of about 100 volumes, which are lent out to the subscribers. Savings Bank. — An attempt was made eighteen years ago to establish a savings bank in the parish. Every thing was arranged OUMISTON. 151 upon the most favourable terms for receiving the little sums which the poor were able to spare for it. But a prejudice was excited against it, and it did not succeed. Poor. — The average number of persons upon the roll is 15, who receive upon an average about is. 9d. a- week each. Some require to be supported entirely, others require only a small assistance. But besides those who are permanently upon the roll, aid is occa- sionally given to some who are not paupers, but from distress or mis • fortunes are reduced to temporary want. The fund for the support of the poor arises from collections at the church, mortcloths, assessments, and occasional donations. The annual collections at church amount to from L. 10 to L. 12 a year; the mortcloths to L. 3 ; the assessment is generally L. 60, and sometimes L. 80. The first assessment was laid on in 1757. For several* years after, it was resorted to only occasionally. But since the beginning of the present century, it has been regularly im- posed every half year: and about 1810 it rose so high as L. 100 a-year. Previous to 1813 there were funds belonging to tiie poor amounting to L. 180. This money was lodged with the Earl of Hopetoun upon two bonds, at an interest of L. 5 per cenL At that time, James I'^arl of Ho])et()un, being in a very j)()(u- state of health, and the estate at his death going to the heir of en- tail, who was different from tiie heir of line, — his trustees refused t(» allow any more assessments till the poors' money in the Earl's hands was all exhausted. The kirk-session was thus obliged to exi^end the whole stock belonging to the poor, which amounted lo L. 9 a year. There is also a house in Ormiston burdened with an annual feu-duty of 1^. 4, 9s. for the benefit of the poor. From these sources, arise the regular supplies for the support of the poor. But besides the regular supplies, there has been for several years an extraordinary collection in the course of the winter for supply- ing needy families with coals and meal and other necessaries. The poor also obtain every year from an institution at Haddington a supply of flannel clothing. The Earl and Countess of Hopetoun are subscribers to this institution, and have granted ])erniission to the minister of Ormiston to draw from it upon their joint subscrip- tions such flannel clothing as shall be found needful for the poor in the course of the winter. In addition to all which, the Dowager Lady Hopetoun is in the constant practice of giving occasional charitv, and contributin*' whatever is necissu'v in cases of distress. The i)0()r are not insensible to the benefactions they receive. 152 HADDINGTONSHIRE. The allowance given them is indeed scanty, but they know it can- not be otherwise ; and when not treated with undue rigour they learn to submit to it without murmuring. The feeling of delicacy, however, in receiving parochial aid, that so long subsisted in this country, is now almost extinguished. The labouring classes are not unwilling to receive parochial aid whenever they can obtain it ; and it sometimes happens that even respectable tradesmen are not ashamed to have their aged parents put upon the poors' roll. They are in general careless in laying up for future want, and when dis- tress comes they naturally fall a burden upon the parish. The common practice among the labouring classes of living up to their incomes promotes pauperism. The evil in this country has already grown to a considerable magnitude ; and nothing but the strictest economy and care in the management of the funds can pre- vent it from increasing. In former times, the people were regular in contributing to the collections at church, and thus provid- ed a fund for the support of their indigent brethren. They never thought of attending divine service without carrying their offering along with them. And in many parts of the country this practice still exists, and no assessments are required. But in this district, a great part of the congregation give nothing, and the collections in general arc miserably small. About a century back too there were fewer upon the poors' roll, and these were better supported than they are now. The industrious poor are better fed, and better clothed, and have better wages than formerly; but they are less economical and less provident, and consequently more frequently exposed to privations and want. Alehouses. — In this parish, small as it is, there are no less than seven houses which have obtained a license to sell ardent spirits. There is only one public-house where stabling can be obtained, and that of an inferior description. Were there one good inn with proper accommodation for horses, it might be of great benefit to the place. It might diminish the number of tippling-houses, and by its superior accommodation, contribute to the prosperity of the village. At present, the small public-houses are certainly unfavour- able to morals. But the evil of tippling does not proceed altoge- ther from licensed houses. In private ones, tippling is carried on to a great extent. The inmates go to the shop and bring in what- ever quantity of spirits is wanted, at the joint expense of those who arc present ; and in this way disorders and abuses frequently take YESTEU. 153 places of all which, females and young children are witnesses and partakers. FiieL — Coal is the only fuel made use of in the parish. The inhabitants in the neighbourhood of Ormiston Hall are supplied from a pit wrought by the proprietor. Those in the village and vicinity obtain their chief supply from pits about a mile and a-half to the north, in the parish of Tranent. The price of a cart of coals of 12 cwt. is from 4s. to 4s. 6d. Miscellaneous Obsekvations. Since the last Statistical Account was publislied, the public road running through the parish, and also the private roads, have been very much improved. This circumstance, with a more liberal sup- ply of manure collected from different cpiarters, has produced a proportional improvement in the figriculture. At that time, the village was in a more thriving state on account of some public works carried on in the place. All these have been given up for a number of years, and there is a great want of employment for the labouring poor, especially in winter, when many are thrown com- pletely idle, and reduced to great straits. On such occasions, however, the family of Hopetoun has !iever been backward to ap- ply a remedy for an evil which, in the present state of society, can hardly be prevented. Revised September 1835. PARISH OF YESTICR. PRESBYTERY OF HADDIN(;TC)N, SYNOD Ol' LOTHIAN AND TWEKDUALE. THE HKV. JOHN THOMSON, .AHNISTKR. I. — Topography and Xatural History. Name. — The ancient name of the parish was St Boihans or St Bathans, — the name of a saitit who, if we may judt^c by the vestifjes of him which still remain in various j)arts of the country,* was once held in high and general estimation. The change of the name from St Bat bans to Yestcr, seems to have been made soon after the Reformation, which, among many other good results, has * AblK'v St nathaiiN, and wvcral vilhi^es in Irvlund. 154 HADDINGTONSHIRE. destroyed the popular reverence for pseudo-saiiUs, This change, however, as appears from the Presbytery records, was not general- ly adopted till about the year 1668. Yester is the ancient name of the Marquis of Tweeddale's estate, which lies chiefly within the parish. The name appears to be of Cambro- British origin. In that language, the word Ystrad or Yestred signifies a strath or tmle. This name, afterwards corrupted to Yester^ is very expres- sive of the local aspect of the parish, which forms a strath on the banks of a rivulet called Gifford-water, a tributary of the Tyne. The antiquity of the present name is shewn by the following cir- cumstance, that Hugh de Gifford (to whom William the Lion granted the baronial domains of Yestred or Yester in the twelfth century) " gave to the monks of Melros a toft in his village of YestredJ** The parish is popularly called Gifford, from a village in it of that name. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish is about 6 miles long from east to west, and about 5 in breadth, including an extent of 2 miles in the Lanimermoors. It contains 7080 Scots acres, or nearly 14 square miles. Its form is nearly that of an oblong square, bounded by the parishes of Garvald, Haddington, Bolton, Humbie, and Lauder. Topographical Appearances, — The I^mmermoor hills run along the south side of the parish. They are covered with heath, and afford good pasture for sheep. The highest of these is Lammer- lawy which is situated in Yester parish. Its height above the le- vel of the sea is about 1700 feet. Near the summit of Lammer- law, is an excellent spring of water; temperature in August 1834 42^, and scarcely at all different in winter. Various small streams descending from these hills, and uniting about a mile from their base, form the Gifford Water f which flows through the strath or Ystrad already mentioned. This strath is one of peculiar beauty. Although it is 400 feet above the level of the sea, it is highly cul- tivated and richly wooded. In the centre or lower part of it, stands the village of Gifford^ around which extends a circular elevated ridge of fertile land at the distance of about a mile and a-half, which slopes gently toward the lower part, and affords a good shelter from the cold east winds. • Chalmers* Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 534. f It is mentioned In the former Statistical Account, that " this stream was remark- able for a flood on the 4th of October 1775, which carried down most of the bridges in the parish, and a num1>erof trees from Yester ; a most unaccountable circunmtanee, as no extraordinary quantity of rain had previously fallen." The supposition of a water 'spoHt will perhaps explain the diflUculfy. YESTEU. 105 S!oi7, 4cC' — The greater portion of the county abounds in lime- stone and marl. At Kidlaw, in the south-western corner of this parish, there is a Ume quarry ; but, owing to its distance from coal, the working of it is rather expensive. There is no stone for building in the parish, no coal, nor gravel, except what is taken from the bed of the river. Formerly there were quarries of hard red freestone of excellent quality at Barra, which is two miles east from GiSbrd ; but they have not been wrought for many years. The soil of this parish, in common with that of East Lo- thian generally, furnishes a striking instance of the great benefit which results from well directed industry. It is by no means so highly favoured by nature as many other districts which have been less improved. It presents the aspect of an inclined plain, de- scending northward from Lammerraoor towards the sea, and may therefore be considered as in some measure averted from the sun's ^ys, and exposed to the chilling northern blasts. The soil, too, is generally of that kind in which clay greatly predo- minates, although in several parishes on the sea coast, and in some of the higher parts of this parish (at Long Yestcr and I-.ong Newton) a light loam is sometimes met with. A clay bottom, how- ever, forms the principal characteristic of the soil, which is about four-fifths clay, and one-fifth light and gravelly; but a skilful agriculture has in a great measure overcome these disadvantages, and rendered the soil very productive. It ought to be remarked, however, that, notwithstanding the northerly exposure of this pa- rish, the climate is on the whole favourable to the growth of corn ; and it hiis been very much improved of late by draining. Climate, — As might be expected from our proximity to the Lam- mermoors, a greater quantity of rain probably falls in this parish than in almost any other in the county. But the heavy falls of rain brought from the Atlantic Ocean by the westerly winds, and which so frequently deluge the We^t of Scotland, are little known here. The greater part of the clouds brought from the west are attracted and broken by the high grounds between (-lydesdaleand West Lo- thian. The few that escape this attraction are broken and divided by the Pentland hills. One part of these proceeds northward bv Arthur's Seat, and is wasted in the Frith of Forth; and another is attracted by the Moorfoot hills, and proceeds along that range by Soutra hill and I^unmcrmoor. Some of these clouds, however, from their height, occasionally escape both attractions, and travel eastward bv Dalkeith towards the vale of Tvue and the hii»hei 256 HADDINGTOxNSHIRE. districts of this parish. But from this course they are generally diverted by the Garleton-hills and Traprene Law ; and then they take either a southerly direction towards the hills of Lammermoor, or a northerly direction by North Berwick Law to the Frith of Forth. Such is the general course of the western clouds about the beginning of spring ; and as the season advances, the quantity of rain from the west is gradually lessened ; so that, during the summer and autumn, a west wiud is a tolerable security for dry weather. An instance of this occurs at the moment of writing this account. In the forenoon and afternoon of this day, an unusually large quantity of rain fell, the wind blowing with great violence from the south and south-east; but towards evening, the wind has veered round to the west; and at present, the sky, which but lately was darkened with clouds and mist, is clear and serene. During winter, the wind in every point from the west round by the north to the east occasionally brings snow or rain ; but snow seldom remains long on the ground. For some years back, little snow has fallen in this district ; and it very seldom happens that we have more than a week of what is called close weather. The spring in this part of the country is generally dry and cold, especially when the wind blows from the east. The cold, how- ever, is by no means so intense as in many parishes in the immediate neighbourhood of this, — which isowingin a great measure to the cir- cular elevated ridge that surrounds the strath of Yester. Occasionally in spring, there are heavy showers of hail or rain from the north- east. During the whole of May, the winds generally blow from some point to the north, with a bright sun, and a dry keen penetrating air, which renders it a trying period to invalids. Notwithstanding this, however, the situation of the parish is remarkably healthy, the air pure and invigorating, the climate generally mild, and " no par- ticular distemper is prevalent." At this period, the husbandman endeavours to have his fallow, especially on strong land, lying un- der a cross furrow and in large clods, which are dried so thorough^ ly by the east winds, that most of the rooted weeds enclosed in them are withered and destroyed. The weather seldom sets in steadily mild before the end of June. It is a proverbial expression, that the crops upon the clay and the strong land do not often begin to " mend until the nights are turn- ed," that is, till the summer heats commence. In summer and the beginning of autumn, the only rainy points are the south and east. Generallv the wind sets in from these YESTEK. 157 points at the change and full moon ; and (as in the ca^e eo}ile." •f Sir Walter Scott's Marniion, Note 3 on Canto iii. 1 58 HADDINGTONSHIRE. was acquired by marriage, a son of the first Marquis, Lord Charles, made the following verses : — Aulam alii jactent, felix Domus Ycstria nube, Nam qua? sors aliis, dat Vcaus alma tibi. Various accounts have been given of the origin of this ancient family. Buchanan * says that the Hays are descended from the hero of the battle of Loncarty, whose story is well known. The Scots, having been put to flight by the Danes, were met by Hay and his sons, who were ploughing in an adjoining field. Armed with ploughshares, they forced their panic-stricken countrymen to turn back on their invaders. The consequence was that the Danes experienced a signal defeat ; and soon afterwards. Hay, for his bravery and patriotism, was raised to the rank of nobiHty, and obtained a large estate in the Carse of Gowry, " quem (Buchanan adds) ad- huc eorum posteri tenent." This Hay, it is universally acknowled- ged, was the ancestor of the families of Errol and Kinnoul ; and many hold also that he was the ancestor of the family of Tweed- dale. Others again affirm that the ancestry of this family was of Norman descent, and settled in Scotland about the year 1200, having previously come from Normandy with William the Con- queror. Let antiquarians decide the question as they best can. Eminent Men. — John Knox, the Father of the Scottish Refor- mation, was born in the village of Gifibrd, in the year 1505. The place of his nativity, indeed, has been questioned ; some maintain- ing that he was born at Gifford-gate, one of the suburbs of Had- dington. But it is easy to show that this opinion is not well found- ed, f * Kerum Scoticarum Historia, in vita Kennctbi Tertii) anno 980. -f* We shall shortly state the evidence in favour of both o))inions, that the reader may decide for himself : That Knox was born at the village of Gifibrd, in this pa- rish, is proved not only by the circumstance tliat this has long been the prevailing opinion, but also by the testimony of Bcza^ his contcviporai-y and Jriend, He calls bim ^'Joannes Cnoxus, Scotus, Giffbrdictisis,** (Imagines illustrium virorum, £e. iij. an. ir>80,) evidently meaning that he was a native of Gifford. If he had been a na- tive of one of the suburbs of Haddington, would not Beza have called him Haddin^ tonicHtit $ Spotswood (History, p. 26o,edit. 1677,) says, that ''he was born in Gifford^ within Lothian," which statement is confirmed by David Buchanan, Crawfurd, and Wodrow, ( Buchanan's Memoir of Knox, prefixed to the edition of his history, pub- lished 1G44; Crawfurd's Life of Knox; Wodrow's MS. Collections respecting the Scottish Reformers, in Bibl. Coll. Glas.) On the other hand, Archibald Hamilton (De Confusione Calvinianae Sectae apud Scotos Dialogus, fv)l. 64, a. Par. J 577.) retailed a number of gross falsehoods in his work,** and though it may be said, that he was under no temptation to tell a lie in a matter of fact, yet it is not likely that a man of his character would either give himself much trouble to ascertain the truth inthis case, or be very scrupulous in adhering to it. The other writer, who says that I YESTEK. 1:VJ The Rev. John Witherspoon, I). D., LL. D., President of the College of New Jersey, in America, was born in the manse of Yes- ter on the 5th of February 1723.* The following notice, thoug^h rather lengthened, of this distinguished man, it is hoped, may not be unacceptable. He was lineally descended from John Knox, and was connected with a family of property in the east of Scot- land. His father, who wtus ordained minister of Yestcr in March 1720, was eminent for his piety, learning, and fidelity as a mi- nister of the gospel. Young Witherspoon was sent at a very early age to the public school at Haddington, where he distinguished himself by his assiduity and proficiency. He was sent, at the age of fourteen, to the University of Edinburgh, where he attracted tlie |)articular notice of the professors by his talents and acquirements. At the age of twenty-one he was licensed to preach the gospel ; and soon after he was invited to become assistant and successor to his father in the parish of Yester;— but he chose rather to accept a call from the parish of Beith, where he was ordained with the universal consent of the people. A short time afterwards, he was called to Paisley, where he laboured in the work of the Lord with universal acceptance and great success. During his resi- dence in Paisley he was invited to remove to Dublin, to Rotter- dam, and Dundee ; but he refused. He was also requested by the Tnistees of the College of New Jersey to accept the office of Pre- sident. He at first declined the offer; but on a second applica- tion he complied with it. The finances of the college (which was founded and chielly supported by private liberality,) were in a low and declining condition when Dr Witherspoon arrived in Ame- rica; but by his talents, reputation, and exertions, the college was soon raised to a state of great prosperity. Formerly the acade- mical course had been too suporlicial, and too much tinctured with the dry and unedifying forms of the schoolmen ; but Dr Wither- spoon introduced all the modern improvements of Europe, and in- corporated with the course of instruction a sound and rational me- taphysics, eijually removed from the doctrines of fatality and con- Knux WM iKirn iicnr Iladdin^ton, is called by ^I'Cric in tlic first oilitioii of \m work, " another of the sjimo kiclncy" with Ilaniilton, and therefore ontillwl to no cre- dit. Few persons, therefore, will Im disposed to differ from the late distinpiished bic^rapher of Knox, when he says. " I am inclined to prefer the opinion of the oldest and moHt eredihle writers, that he worn in tlie villa^ of (lifTord.* — M*Crie'« Life of John Knox, ,Jth edition, Vol. i. pp. I« 2. For u more full exami- nation of this point see the Appendix to the volume. Note A. • It IR sUtcd ill the aceounis of his life that he was Ixirn Fehrunry •>, \7'22; but on cxiiniining the parish n-^^istt-r, I find that he w.is h;ipti/eil on the 1 0th of Fe- bruary 172:). It is not likely that a year would elapse l»elween his birth and liaptisni. 160 HADDINGTONSHIRE. tingency. Under his auspices, most of the American clergy were educated ; and the United States owe to him many of their most distinguished patriots and legislators, — above thirty of his pupils having become members of Congress. In this situation Dr Wi- therspoon continued with increasing success till the beginning of the American war, — an event which suspended his functions, and dispersed the college. He then appeared in a new character. The citizens of New Jersey elected him as one of the most suit- able delegates whom they could send to that convention which formed their republican constitution; where he distinguished him- self as much in the capacity of a civilian as he had already done in those of a divine and philosopher. In 1776, he was sent as re- presentative of New Jersey to the Congress of the United States. He continued a member of that body seven years, and distinguished himself by his firmness, enlarged views, and profound wisdom. Nor did he forget, amid the bustle of political life, his ministerial cha- racter. After peace was restored, the college was reassembled, and continued to flourish under the immediate care of a vice-president; but Dr Witherspoon did not neglect to use every means for its im- provement. Dr Witherspoon was well prepared for the part he per- formed in the civil and ecclesiastical assemblies of America, by the experience he had acquired before leaving Scotland, as leader of the Orthodox party in the church, chiefly upon the great question of patronage, which was then the subject of discussion. For more than two years previous to his death, he was deprived of sight ; but he bore this and all his suflerings with exemplary resignation and cheerfulness. During his blindness, he was frequently in the pul- pit, and spoke with his usual accuracy and power. He died on the 15th of November 1794, after a life of great activity, of true piety, and of eminent usefulness. His writings are well known. They display extensive learning, a profound knowledge of Scripture, and an intimate acquaintance with the human heart.* This parish gave birth also to Dr Charles Nisbet, President of the College of Carlisle in America. He was born in March 1728 at Long Yester, where his father held the office of schoolmaster. After receiving license, he was ordained minister of Montrose ; from which place he was induced to remove by the ofier of a Pre- sidency in America. Though a man of distinguished attainments, he seems to have enjoyed little" comfort, and less worldly prosperity in '^the land of liberty,*' Although the names " College" and " Pre- • See tlic Life of the Rev. John Witherspoon, D. D, LL. D. prefixed to his works. YESTER. ini flident*' sounded well, yet he found that his situation was neither more profitable nor more respectable than that which his worthy fitther had held before him. On one occasion, he wrote to his friends, that ^' America was certainly a ^ land of promise ;' for it was all promise and no performance." We cannot refrain from mentioning another eminent man who was long minister of this parish — the Kev. James Innes, whose me- mory is still respectfully and affectionately cherished. He was or- darned in the year 1760, and died in 18*21 ; having been n1ini^ter of Yester during the long period of sixty-one years. As he left no writings behind him, we cannot now form a sufliciontly correct estimate of his powers. Although his talents were not of the highest order, yet he was remarkably distinguished by his powerful appeals to the conscience, his unbending integrity, and his unwea- ried diligence in his Master's work. This parish claims a remote connection with Sir Isaac Newton, who is said to have been a branch of the family of Newton of New- tonhall in this parish.* Parochial Registers, — These consist of nine volumes, and have been kept with considerable regularity. The date of the earliest entry is 18th March 1613. III. — Population. In the last Statistical Account of the parish, we arc inform- ed that the population was much greater aI)out a hundred years before than at that time. The decrease is attributed " to the demolition of cottages, and the union of several small farms into one." Ill 17.x>, tlif population w;i> lO'Jl 1701. . J':3.J IHOI. - - fhiO 1811, - l(H)li iH-il, - - 11(10 iKtl, - 1010 vi/. 404 males, ard .>2j iiMiinlis. The population at present (1835) is about 1050. The nunil)er of the population may perhaps have been considerably aU'ected by the improvements in manufiicturcs. Formerly, there were about twenty weavers in the vilhige of Gifford ; but owing to the improve- ments in machinery, there are at present not more than two or three; and even these have not constant employment in this branch of • Information on this iM)int may hv obtained in Sir Dav'd Hrcwstcr'a Life of Sir Immc Newton, Appi^iidix, N(». I. HADDINGTON. 1- 1G2 HADDINGTONSHIRE. trade. Of late years, several persons have emigrated from thi^^ parish to America, The population residing in the village of GifTord is - • 540 Tillages of Long Yestcr and Long Newton, 140 country, - - - - 370 The yearly average of births for the last 7 years is - - 30 deaths, - - - 16 marriages, - - • 10 The average number of persons under 15 years of age is about - 400 above 70, - - 25 Number of nobility and families of fortune, - - 4* unmarried men and widowers upwards of 50 years of age, - 15 women upwards of 45, - - 54 families, - - _ . 244 chiefly engaged in agriculturo, - - 1 12 trade and manufactures, - 78 Average numl>er of children in each family, - - 4 Number of inhabited houses, - . . . 196 uninhabited houses, (including 2 now building,) - - 14 Generally speaking, the people are cleanly in their habits, in- dustrious, frugal, contented, and intelligent.' Many of them are engaged in out-of-door work, of which they have usually enough to keep them well employed, as the proprietors and tenants wisely give a preference in this respect to natives of the parish, and ma- nifest a becoming anxiety to discourage the entrance of vagrants from other parts of the country. IV. — Industry. The parish contains 8928 acres standard imperial measure. The number of acres which have been cultivated is 5400. The number in hill pasture is 2522 ; of which 300 might be reclaimed — a considerable proportion having been under the plough in the reign of Queen Anne. The number of acres in a state of undivided com- mon is 60 ; and there are 946 acres in plantation. The trees are of various sorts ; beech, oak, ash, elm, lime, &c. They are well managed. Those on the grounds of Yester arc remarkably 6ne trees. The following names of places in this parish shew that there were formerly large forests here: — fVoodhead^ Broadwood" side^ Ecki/side (the Oak-wood-side,) Pyotshaw^-^ &c. Bent of Land. — Rent varies from 10s. to L. 2, 10s. per acre. The average rent of arable land is L. 1, 10s. per acre. Summer and winter-keep per ox or cow, L. 6, turnips or hay included ; ditto • The following are the heritors of the parish : — The Marquis of Tweeddale, Ri- chard Hay Newton, Esq of Newtonhall, John Hay Mackenzie, Esq. of Newhall, and Tliomas Crighton, Esq. of Skcdsbush. The Marquis of Tweeddale is the prin- cipal heritor and patron of the church. I In the Anglo-Saxon, Shaw signifies a 'wood, ^ YKSTKH. \(u\ two-year old, L. 4^ 10s. ditto ; ditto oiic-ycar old, L. 0, ditto. For r full-grown sheep in field pasture, L. 1, including turnips ; ditto on hill pasture, 6s. per annum. These of course vary (•onsidend>ly with the price of stock and wool. This parish is rated in the county cess-books as follows: The estate of Yester, L. 2911, 1 Is. 8d.; Newtonhall, L. 1 141, 2s. 4d. ; Newhall, L. 468; Skedsbush, L. 1 1 1, 9s. 4d.^; total L.4632, ;3s. 4d. The real rental of the parish at the time of drawing up the last Statistical Account was L.2000 SterUng. At present it is L.8000 per annum, having increased about I^ 2000 within the last twenty years. This increase, however, is in a great measure to be attri- buted to the death of many of the old liferenters during that period, who held their farms at a very low rent. Livestock, — The common breeds of sheep in this parish are the Leicester and Cheviot; and also a hardv thrivinor breed be- tween a Leicester tup and a Cheviot ewe. The total number of sheep is 4000; and 900 lambs are bred annually. Great atten- tion has been paid to their improvement, especially by the Mar- quis of Tweeddale. The cattle are of various sorts, from the fine diort^homed English breed down to the native of the Highlands and the Shetland islands. The total lunnbor of cattle in the ])a- rish is 360 ; and 80 cidves sire bred annuallv. Husbandry. — The state of husbandry has been much improved in this parish within the last ten years. At present, it is perhaps as perfect here as in any part of the country. Little wheat is grown in this parish, although it is of good quality. Karley, oats, and tur- nips are the principal crops. John Marcpiis of Tweeddale and Sir George Suttie, were the earliest and most successful in practising the turnip husbandry. Tins was about a hundred years «igo. Bone dust has of late been very generally used instead of manure, for raising turnips, and its eflects have been astonishing. Draining also has been carried on generally and successfully throughout the pa- rish. Lately, the Marquis of Tweeddale has erected a mill for working the clay, and lias invented a very ingenious machine for forming the tiles, which will greatly facilitate the operation of tile- draining. A considerable quantity of waste land has lately been reclaimed at the foot of tlie I^unmernioors, on the farms especially of Long Yester and Long Newton ; and the crops raised will soon repay the expense of cultivation. The genend duration of leases in this parish i» nineteen years. The state of farm-buildings and en- L. 8,457 18 540 2,000 1,166 13 4 50 1,800 1,800 3,000 L. 18,814 11 4 \{j4 HADDINGTONSHIRE. closures is good. Many of the farm-houses are new, and as com- modious as the mansion-houses of many Highland lairds. As far as I am aware, every encouragement is given to improvement by the proprietors. Produce. — The gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Grain of all kinds, 8,644 bolls of six imperial buKliels Potatoes, . 1,800 bolls at 6s. per boFI of 40 stones, Turnips, . 10,000 tons at 48. per ton, Clover-bay, 40,000 stones at 7d. per stone, Meadow -hay, {},0(K) stones at 4d. Pasture for • <)60 cows at L. 5, Pasture ior . 3,(K)0 sheep at 6s. for 1000 at IRs. Young cattle, horses, and lambs bred, wool, &c. suy Total amount of raw produce, V. — Parochial Economy. Markets. — There are no weekly markets held in the parish ; but there are three trysts or fairs held annually, which will be after- wards mentioned. The distance from Gifford to Haddington, where a market is held every Friday, is four miles. Tliis town, il is well known, affords to the surrounding country a good market for all kinds of agricultural produce. The Haddington corn-market is the greatest in Scotland, owing probably in some measure to its being entirely a ready money market. Means of Communication. — The road to Haddington, though not very level, is kept, as all the other roads are, in good re- pair. It might, however, be much improved at little expense by cutting and raising. In this parish there arc about three miles of turnpike roads and thirteen of parish roads. The road from Gif- ford to Edinburgh, which is distant about nineteen miles, is in a good state of repair. Since the year 1750, when an act of Parlia- ment empowercil commissioners to repair the post-road from Dun- glas Bridge to Ravenshaugh Bridge, the cross roads of this parish and county have been greatly improved. Before that time the roads were nearly impassable. At present, a one-horse coach tra- vels three times a-weck between Edinburgh and Gifford ; leaving Gifford on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 7 a. m., and returning on the other days. It jiasses through Saltoun and Tra- nent. It leaves No. 2, Princes Street, Edinburgh, at a quarter to four afternoon, and performs the journey in about two hours and a-half. There is a penny post-office in the village of Gifford. Till vi:sTi:i:. lUf) of late, tbe post -man travelled between Gitloril and Haddington (which is the post-town) twice a-day; — bringing letters from the north mail in the morning, and from the south mail in the after- noon. But, this summer, he has travelled only once shyterv Hicords. that he was Moderator of the IVcsbytery of Haddington from 1(>71 till 1(>7(); a circumstance which shews, not only that he was held in respect by his brethren, but nlM> thut the presbytery were beginning at that time to adopt Episcopalian views and ])ractices. Aecordingly, Mr Charteris wiis appointed by the Blyfiop of Ediitiiiifihy in Januity, in wliii-h situation, however, he does not seem to have continued many years. AfU>r the Uevolution. he was remov- ed to be minister of Dirleton, where he died. In .August l(>8l, (itOi^r Stcnhcn was ordained minister of Yester, in consetpiencL' of an edict from the nisliop of K Jin- burgh. He appears, however, to have been a staunch Presbyterian, 'i'he following reason, highly honourable to his ]>rinci]ilcs and character, is assigned for his removal, in the session records; — "January 7, 1(38-. No sermon, Mr Cieorge Stephen, our minister liaving lcl\ his charge, Ihwuusc he -cohM not Uihr the ttut imposed by autho- rity, as he was required on 'i'hurs8li, Robert ^leU druin, minister of Cjar\-ald, was appointed by the Ji'mfiojt oJ'EJiiihitr^h to 1h.> minister of Yester. In this situation he remained till I)ecend)er 1(>{K), notwithstanding the political and ecclesiastical changes which during his incund>ency had taken place in the nation, llie change from Prelacy to Presbytery at the Ucvolul ion does not loem to have changed his determination to continue minister of Yester ; and though thu circumstance might make some regard him nsa second " Vicar of Biati" yet he appears to have Ihhmi a faithful minister. The following entry in reference to liim is made in the ses.sion records : — " Decemlier 17* IbiMi. No sermon, our ministev beingdend, having faithfullie in the oflice of the ministery. served at this church ex- actly seventeen yeais, from the serving of his edict here to tlie next day after his bu- rial.*' On the Uth of Januarv 1700, the heritors and householders met at the church *• for the election of iiciv ehh n;" — and the //(/;//»>*, 'lih'is, aiid hotisthuldt tx were order- ed by the Presbytery to be present on the Jlst, ** for signing a call to a minister ti) this parish.** The call was given to a Mr Alexander Anderson : but he does not ap- pear to have been ordained, having probably accepted a call to another parish. 1m January 1701, another call was signed to Mr Juhua (Vm/^'-, who was ordainetl in April, and remained till October I71ii; when he was translated to Dunbar. In No- vember 1719, " the heritttrs, elders, and others concerned met to elect one to be their minister, and imaniniously made choice of Mt Jaims IVitm isjitKm,*' He was or- dained in March 17:2t), and fnliilled his oilice with exemplary fidelity. He diecrdeen) was inducted minister of this parish in Octol>er \^'^), David Horne (now at Corstorphine ) was ordiined in Mav UUil ; .Jril 1934. 170 HADDINGTONSHIRE. well as in the unendowed schools, the common branches of read- ing, writing, arithmetic, and English grammar are taught. In addition to these, Latin, Greek, French, geography, and ma- thematics are taught in the parish school at Gifford. Two or three boarders usually reside in the Gifford schoolmaster's house ; and he is well qualified to instruct them in the various bran- ches of classical education. The fees of one of the unendowed schools may amount to L.24 per annum, and of the other to about L. 14. Tlie following is a statement of the income of the parochial schoolmasters : at Gifford, salary, L. 34, 4s. 4d., school-fees, L. 40, other emoluments, L. 1. 7s. lOd.,* total income, L. 75, 12s. 2d.; — Long Yester, salary, L. 8, lis. Id., school-fees, L. 18, total in- come, L. 26, 1 Is. Id. ;t — and Long Newton, salary, L. 8, 1 Is. Id., school-fees, L. 14, total income, L. 22, lis. Id. The schools and dwelling-houses are in good repair, and the teachers have the le- gal accommodations. The general expense of education is as fol- lows : For teaching to read, 3s. per quarter ; to read and write, 3s. 6d., and in the parish school, 4s. ; for reading, writing, and arith- metic, 4s. 6d., and in the parish school, 5s. ; for teaching these branches, together with geography or grammar, 6s. ; and for teach- ing the classics, 7s. 6d. The schools are conveniently situated for the accommodation of the children. None are so distant from school as to be de- prived of the means of instruction. The schools are in general well attended. The average attendance of children in this parish at all the schools is about 220, which is more than one-fifth of the population. All the children in the parish above six years of age are able to read, and most of them can write. It is to be regret- ted, however, that in niany cases the children are taken from school too soon, in order to assist their parents in their work. Yet the people in general seem to be alive to the benefits of education ; and it would be reckoned a great reproach to any parent if he ne- glected to send his children to school at the proper age. About twenty years ago, the sum of L. 100 was mortified by William * 'Die sum of L. 1, 7s. lOd., given to the parochial schoolmaster in GiiTord, arises from mortified money on some estates in the parish, and part of it from an estate not in the parish. •f* It ought to be mentioned that, in addition to the sum of L.8, I Is. 1d.» which the schoolmaster of Long Yester receives from this parish, he obtains also from the parish of Garvald the sum of L. 17, 2s. 2d., so that his emoluments amount to L. 49, 13s. 3il. 1 YESTER. i/l • Begbie, Esq. of Gifford Vale, to educate poor cliildren. The interest, amounting to L.49 lOs., is appropriated to this pur- pose by the kirk-session. The session also, when necessary, pay for the education of poor children ; and several members of the bmily of Yester bear the expense of educating between ten and twenty children. There are two Sabbath schools in the parish. Poor and Parochial Funds, — There are at present eighteen regular paupers^ each of whom receives on an average L.t3 per annum. Be- rides these, about eight or ten receive occasiongray« - 1 4 BImii black, mixed wiUicool, 1 Bandfy dark-gray, - 1 7 Bla«, dark-Uue, - 7 Banda, dark-gray, - 4 Coal» - - 5 Blaw. dark-blue, intermixed wiUi gray bands, G 6 Blaei, black, soft, - 1 2 Fraoatone, gray - 4 1 Blaea, dark-blue, - 1 9 Coal, - - - 9 Blae, - - -003 Coal, - - - 2 4 Blaet, dark-gray, - 6 Fraotone, dark-gray and hard, 2 3 Freestone bands, - 10 Bbes, black, - - 4 Coal, - - 18 Blaea, black, - - 10 Fatfi, Feet, In, Blaes, dark-bluc, - 4 3 Blaes, black, - - 1 10 Freestone, dark-gray 12 (» Freestone, darker, - 10 Do. hard, - 10 Do. dark-gray, -0 1 1 Blaes, soft black, - 4 Coal, - - - 9 Blocs, blackish, - 1 11 Freestone bands, gray, Oil Do. dark-gray, - 5 10 Blue lied, - - 2 Freestone band, - G Coal, soft, - -GOG Blaes, blackish, - 1 5 Coal, soft, - - 5 Blaes, black, mixed with freestone bauds, - 1 7 Freestone, dark-gray, - 5 1 Bands and blaes, freestone, 19 Coal, spluit, - - 2 8 I'avement, - - 2 Fathoms, 16 Another pit has just been opened, a little below the North Mains, 1 76 HADDINGTONSHIRE. upon the side of the road leading from Penston to the London road ; but it is not yet finished. We find that in 1812, coal was wrought upon the property of Hodgesl There was also a brick-work upon that property, about fifty years ago ; but the working, both of the coal and the brick, has been discontinued. A proposal was made lately to set a-going a brick-work there for brick and tile ; but it was given up. Coal was wrought about thirty years ago at M* Mer- ry, and also at the western extremity of the parish ; but the pit was removed a little to the west in the parish of Tranent, where it now is. It belongs to Anderson of St Germains. In 1835, at M' Merry, when the blacksmith was sinking a well a little behind his house, on the St Germains property, he acci- dentally came upon some parrot coal. The tenant of the coal- work upon that property, upon hearing of this, examined it, and found a seam of parrot coal, which he has been working ever since, and which, having supplied the new gas-work at Haddington, pro- mises to turn to good account The tenant of the Penston coal also attempted to find it on the opposite side of the road, but did not succeed. The same year, borings were made in different parts of the Elvingston property, with a view to find coal, but without success. The magistrates of Haddington, some time ago, set on foot a coUiery on their property betwixt Gladsmuir and Samuel- ston ; but after going on for some time, they were obliged to give up the work, having lost about L. 2000 in the experiment. From all which, it appears that the coal strata crop out on the east, about the kirk of Gladsmuir. Lime has been found in different parts of the parish. At pre- sent, there is only one kiln in operation, at Hairlaw, a little to the east of Longniddry, on the property of the Earl of Wemyss^ About a mile to the south, on the property of Ainslie of Redcoll, there is a kiln in pretty good preservation, where limestone had been burnt, but the working has been discontinued for some time. I do not know that lime has been wrought, on the south side of the great road ; but as there is a kiln in active operation on the eastern extremity of the Pencaitland estate, and upon the borders of the barony of Samuelston, it is highly probable that lime may be found on the contiguous lands of Samuelston or of Hodges. It is foundi in the same line, all the way west to the kirk of Crichton, and on the north of the road so far east as the farm of Hoprig. Iron ore has been found on the eastern extremity of the form of Setonhill, a little below Cotyburn, in the hollow called the Dean. 3 GLADSMllR. 177 It was wrought for some time, but afterwards the working was given up^ for what cause I have not been able to learn. But now that there is so great a demand for iron, it is in contemplation again to begin the work. The property belongs to the Earl of Wemyss, who, in all probability, will not lose sight of a mineral of so much importance at the present time. Freestone rock for building is found, every where in the parish. An old quarry on the road from Gladsmuir to Penston, from which stones were procured for building the church and school-house, is still open, but filled with water to a considerable depth. A quarry was also opened last year at Westbank, for supplying stones for the buildings upon the estate. Quarries of a similar kind are to be met with in different parts of the parish. There is a remarkable dike of whinstone running through tlie parish, from east to west. It passes betwixt the house of Redcoll and Longniddry, and being quarried in different places, has fur- nished an abundant supply of excellent stones for making and re- pairing the roads. It has been traced through East Lothian all the way to Borrowstownness. In the fields about Greendykes, Southfield, and Adniston, great quantities of boulders and detached pieces of rock have been found and removed. They were struck by the plough, and the cultiva- tion of the fields could not be effected till they were raised and car- ried off. The soil in the middle tract, upon the western extremity, and all upon the south of the great road, is clayey, with the exception of a small tract upon the banks of the Tyne, which is loamy ; near the Frith, on the north, it is sandy, and as you advance southward towards Xiongniddry, it becomes a rich loam. There is a field lying to the south-west of Chesterhall, which is mossy. That field, forty years ago, was a bog, out of which the old people remember peats being dug. All vestiges of what it once was are now done away, and it is in a state of high cultivation. Plantations. — Belts of wood are to be found in different parts of the parish, composed of oak, beech, lime, birch, elm, ash, chestnut, hazel, and some others. The plantations of Penston, Hodges, and Samuelston, being contiguous to each other, form a tract of wood betwixt 100 and 200 acres, lying on the south of the great road, and are composed of the different kinds of fir, but chiefly the Scotch. The Penston wood, consisting of 30 acres, was planted about forty years ago by Lady Ross Baillie. The wood at Hodges 178 HADDINGTONSHIRE. is old, and in some places has been so much thinned, that it be cleared and made arable at very little expense. Nowhere in the county are ditches and drains more necessary than on the pro- perty of Hodges.* 11. — Civil History, f Ancient families — Baillie ofHoprig and Penstoru — By far the most ancient family connected with this parish, is that of Baillie of Hop- rig and Pension. That, indeed, is one of the most ancient families in Scotland, having been in possession of those lands for the long period of 540 years. John Baliol, Lord of Barnard Castle, was the founder of Baliol College, Oxford, and father of John BaUol, King of Scotland. He had a brother, Alexander Baliol or de Balliolo, High Chamberlain of Scotland, whose second son, William de Bal- liolo, swore fealty to King Edward L in 1296, as appears from the Ragman Roll. He was proprietor of Hoprig and Peuston, and ac- quired Lamington, in Lanarkshire, by marriage with a daughter, it is said, of William Wallace, Governor of Scotland. The family took the designation of Lamington, altering their name to Baillie. Sir William Baillie of Lamington, Hoprig, and Penston, dying without legitimate male issue about 1580, was succeeded by his eldest daughter Margaret, who married Edward Maxwell of the Nithsdale family. He took the name of Baillie, and from them descended William Baillie of Lamington, Hoprig, and Penston> whose only son, William, dying unmarried, his estates devolved on his daughter, Margaret, married to Sir James Carmichael of Boony- toun, in Lanarkshire, of the Hyndford family. Their son, Sir James^ died without issue, and was succeeded by his sister, Henrietta Bail- lie of Lamington, Hoprig, and Penston, also Bonnytoun, and mar- ried the gallant Admiral Sir John Lockhart Ross of Balnagowan^ * It may be noticed here, that a very large gcen tree stood at the west end of the manse, planted by Principal Robertson, when minister of the parish. Towards the bottom, it was about 3 feet in diameter, of a great height, and spread its brandics- over some of the buildings in its neighbourhood. The trunk, when the present in- cumbent came to the parish in 1833, was quite hollow and rotten in the middle^ and the whole weight was supported by an outer rim of 2 or 3 inch^ thick, with an opening on one side. Had it been overturned by the wind, it might have done very great injury both to the manse and offices. To prevent which, it was cut down last year, and the fragments of it, laid up beside the house, bear witness of what it once was. f There are no accounts of the parish, as far as I know, either written or printed. Some years ago, Mr M' Donald, of the Register. Office, found an account in MSS. of several of the parishes of East Lothian drawn up in 1627, which he has lately got printed, and has generously sent a copy of the book to the library of the General As- sembly, to be preserved for the use of the church. The parish of Gladsmuir having, been erected long after that period, of course cannot be amongst them. But the pos- Uon Ukcn from Tranent is to be found under the head of that parish. OLADSMIIR. 179 Bart Her eldest son, Sir Charles Iloss of Biiluagowan, prede- ceased her, leaving by his 6rst wife, Maria Teresa, daughter of James Lockhart of Lee and Carnwath, Count of the Holy Roman Empire, a daughter, Matilda, and by his second wife. Lady Mary Fitzgerald, daughter of William Robert, second Duke of Leinster, a son, Sir Charles Ross of Balnagowan, and five daughters. Ma- tilda, the only child of the first marriage, succeeded to Lamington, Hoprig, and Penston, married Sir Thomas John Cochran, Captain R. N. and died 1819. The eldest son, Alexander Dundas Ross CochraD Wishart Baillie, who is yet a minor, is the present pro- prietor of Lamington, Hoprig, and Penston, and is lineally descend- ed from William de Balliolo in 1296. To this fiimily, the parish of Gladsmuir in a great measure owes its existence ; for William Baillie of Lamington was most active in procuring its disjunction from the neighbouring parishes, and its erection and endowment as a separate parish. Douglas of Longniddry. — Another ancient family connected with this parish was Douglas of Longniddry. This family was a cadet of the Douglases of Dalkeith, Earls of Morton, and was distinguished for steady attachment to the doctrines of the Re- formation, which, about the middle of the sixteenth century, were spreading rapidly through this country.* In the Duke of Somerset's expedition to Scotland in 1547, it is mentioned " 7th September, marched that day nine miles, and camped at night by a toun standing upon the Frith called Long- niddrie* There was found a gentlewoman, the wife of one Hugh Douglas. She was great with child, whose estate the council un- derstanding, my Lord's Grace, and my Lord Lieutenant took or- der, that all night, without danger or damage, she was well preser- ved." The Douglases had the east part of Longniddry, where the vaulted ground floor of the castle still remains. At that time, the estate belonging to the Douglases comprehended a considerable part of Hairlaw, Redcoll, and Setonhill, which have since been tak- • When John Knox was obliged to leave St Andrews, on account of the troubles to which the Protestants were then subjected, he was invited to Longniddry by Mr Douglas. There he was employed in conducting the education of Mr Douglas* two ■ons, Frmncis and George, and abo Alexander Cockl)urn, the eldest son of tlie Inird of Ormiston. This Alexander Cockburn was a young man of great promise, but dicecausc he had no lands fit for growing wheat. From that circumstance the farm got the name of Wheatrig It was taken from the pro* perty of llcdhousc, now in the possession of the Earl of Wemyss. 182 HADDINGTONSHIRE. Greendykes, East and West Adniston. The Honourable John Henry Glassel Campbell possesses the lands of Longniddry^ con- sisting of one large farm and several smaller pieces let to the in- habitants of the village ; he is a minor. Robert Ainslie of Red- coll, having lately purchased Elvingston and Trabroun, now posses- ses those lands, together with what he formerly possessed. The Honourable Miss Murray possesses Laverocklaw. John Ainslie, younger brother of Robert, has the lands of Merryhatton, which are part of the estate of Huntington. Lord Ruthven, in right of his Lady, possesses the lands of Hodges, and is by far the smallest proprietor in the parish. Only one heritor is resident in the pa- rish, — Ainslie of Redcoll. Eminent Men. — In the former Statistical Account of Glada- muir, it is stated that George Heriot, founder of the hospital in Edinburgh which bears his name, was a native of this parish. It appears, however, from an account of his life published in the Scots Magazine in 1802, and from an account afterwards publish- ed in 1822, that his father, who was a goldsmith of great respec- tability, was born at Trabroun, in the parish of Gladsmuir, but that George was born in Edinburgh, June 1563, brought up to the same trade with his father, and held the lucrative appointment of jeweller to the King and Queen. On the accession of James to the English throne in 1603, he went to London^and continued there till his death, Febniary 1624. The Heriots of Trabroun were a family of some antiquity in East Lothian. Dr Robertson, Principal of the University of Edinburgh, began his ministry in this parish. He succeeded his uncle, Andrew Ro- bertson, and was ordained 17th April 1744, before (it is said) a very numerous congregation. He was presented by the Earl of Hopetoun, who singled him out as a young man of great promise* He lived for some years in the old manse, where he composed th^ greater part of the History of Scotland. He afterwards came to the present manse, where he continued till his removal to Edin- burgh. At Gladsmuir, in the retirement of the country, he laid the foundation of that high eminence which he afterwards attained as an historian, as well as in conducting the affairs of the church, being for many years looked up to as the leader in the General Assembly. From Gladsmuir he was translated to Edinburgh, as colleague to Dr Erskine, in the church of the Old Grayfriars, with whom he continued to live in habits of the most friendly in- tercourse till his death. GLADSMUIR. 183 William Baillie of Lamington deserves to be noticed here, not only ou account of his private worth, but also on account of his mu- nificent liberality to the parish. He wa3 very active in procuring the erection of the new parish. He made a present to the parish of land for the church and churchyard, and for the school, school* master's house, and garden, and built the church at his own ex- pense, and in addition to all this, he allowed the minister, from his colliery at Penston, free coals for the use of his family. Bail- lie's descendants continued to the ministers of Gladsmuir the pri- vilege which their worthy ancestor had so generously granted, till it was withdrawn by those who had the management of the pro- perty, at a period when the succession was doubtful. It is to be hoped this privilege will be again restored. But whether it be or not, William Baillie of Lamington will be remembered as a man deeply impressed with the importance of religion to the welfare of the country, as a benefactor to the church, and an active promot- er of her true interests, as long as the parish of Gladsmuir shall exist. ■ PtirochieU Registers. — The records go back to the erection of the parish. The first minute is dated at Gladsmuir meeting- house, 26th April 1692.* The records are very defective. After the first volume, which ends in 1707, there are no minutes for thirty years following. Tlicre is also a blank from 1804 till 1833, when the present incumbent came to the parish. In the register of bap- tisms, there is a gap from 1734 to 1760. The list of marriages is also wanting from 1737 to 1766. But besides those defects^ the registers of baptisms and marriages do not appear to have bceu accurately kept. Antiquities. — There were lately to be found in the parish, the renoAins of several old mansion-houses ; but the tide of time is sweeping them fast away, and levelling with the ground the most stately monuments of former greatness. The mansion of the Dou- glases of Longniddry, distinguished for their zeal for the Refer- * That minute mentions, that the United Presbytery of Haddington and Dunbar bad appointed Mr Moncricff, minister of Saltpreston, now Prestonpans, to be modera- tor of Uie Session, for the pur^iosc of uniting with the heritors, in the choice of a mi- nister to the new parish. The heritors were called at the door of the church, inti- mation of the meeting having been formerly given to them. Whereupon, they and the elders unanimously made choice of Mr Mungo Watson, then minister of the cha- pel, to be minister of Gladsmuir. He, of course, was the first minister of the parish. It H worthy of notice, that, some time after, as ap{>ears firom the minutes of presby- tery, he got a call to the parish of Linlithgow ; but the i>cople of Gladsmuir being attached to him, and having petitioned agahist his removal, the presbytery refused to kxiflc him from his charge, and he continued minister of Gladsmuir till his death. 184 HADDINGTONSHIRE. mation, is now known only by a circular mound, rising a few feet above the ground, containing the subterraneous vaults which were connected with the building. The wall running along the public road is still called the Lairdts Dyke ; and a part of the field, a lit- tle to the north, the Laird's Garden. The two mansion-houses of east and west Adniston, which an-. ciently belonged to different proprietors, have been so completely demolished, that not a vestige of them is now to be seen. The old house of west Adniston was situate close by the present &nn- house, and was last occupied by two ladies, one of whom was mar- ried to the Earl of Winton, the father of the last EarL It was taken down about twenty jears ago, and the materials used in building the present farm-oifices. The mansion-house upon the farm of east Adniston was about a quarter of a mile distant from the other, and formerly occupied by the proprietor, Mr Adnbton. It was taken down in 1832, to assist in building the present magnificent set of ofiices at the farm of Greendykes. At Penston, there was an old mansion-house occupied by the proprietor when he resided in this part of the country, but no re- mains of it are now to be seen. It was strongly built, with a very thick wall, and the apartments had arched roofs, as was common in ancient times. It stood on the south of the road running through the village, opposite to the barn which has just been built. The garden attached to it still remains. Contiguous to the old mansion- house, was a pretty large store-house or granary, which was built in 1670, as appears from a date on one of the lintels of the door, for the purpose of receiving the rents of the tenantry, which at that time were paid in kind. An old man above eighty remem- bers, when Dundas of Arniston had the charge of the property, that the farmers used to carry the corn in sacks, upon horses' backs from Penston to Arniston, there being at that time no car- riage roads across the country. Betwixt Penston and Henmuir, are to be seen the ruins of an old windmill, which was employed to draw up the water from the coal. When there was wind, it answered the purpose extremely well ; but in calm weather it could not act, — the water got the bet- ter of the workmen, and they were thrown idle. This inconveni- ence is now completely remedied by the use of steam-engines, of which there are two upon the coal-work. At Seatonhill, about two years ago, when the servants were ploughing in the field contiguous to the farm-house upon the south, GLADSMUIR. 185 the ploughs struck upon some large stones, which, when dug up, were found to be coffins composed of flag-stones of a peculiar qua- lity, probably a kind of puddingstone, others of a kind of red flag-^ stone, common in the neighbourhood. The coffins were about 5 feet long by 2 broad, all of them containing bones. More have since been dug out : and it is probable there are many still remaining in the ground beyond the reach of the plough. Specimens of the stones are preserved by the tenant, and are also in my possession* On the eastern part of the same farm, not £ar from the coffins, an litn was found full of bones. It was broken in the taking up, but the fragments are in possession of Mr Black. On the farm of Southfield, about a mile to the south of Long- niddry, while the labourers were employed in making drains, they found a variety of small silver coins of different dates and sizes, chiefly British. They were given to the tenant, with whom they are to be found. Similar coins were found in the neighbouring fann of Greendykes, some of which are in the possession of the proprietor. It is probable the place had been some military sta- tion, where they had been deposited. Modem Buildings. — There are hardly any modern buildings of consequence in the parish. The House of Redcoll, built about ^ twelve years ago, and inhabited by the proprietor, is a neat substantial bailding, with a garden and set of good offices. It has a porter's lodge, and an approach from the road of about 300 yards, with a belt of trees on each side. The house at Southfield was built, about thirty years ago, by the proprietor Mr Gray, and inhabited by him. But when the farm came into the possession of the Earl of Wemyss, it was given to ihe tenant as a dwelling-house, and has since been occupied by him. It is a small but handsome house, with a considerable num« her of trees scattered about it It is open to the north, but quite shut up in the view to the south. The farm-houses are in general good. A new one was built last year upon the farm of Hoprig Mains. Some have undergone repairs and got additions. Those at Penston and Westbank have got a substantial set of new offices with slated roofs. But, among dl the farm-offices in the parish, and I may say in the county, none are to be compared to those of Greendykes. They were built by the proprietor a few years ago, and are more like the offices you might expect to find connected with a Ducal palace, than the house of a tenant. 186 HADDINGTONSHIRE. III. — Population. From the appearance of ruined houses on both sides of the pa- rish, an opinion has prevailed that the inhabitants were once more numerous than they are now. But by a numeration which was made at the first seating of the church in 1697, it appears that the number of inhabitants then must have been under 1350* When the census was taken by Dr Webster in 1755, the numbers were 1415, and at the time when the last Statistical Account was drawn up the population was 1380. By the census in 1821 it was found to be 1623, and in 1831 it amounted to 1658. Since that time, it has varied very little. Of these, 822 are males, and 836 are females. From the above tatement, it appears that the population in the course of less than a century has increased more than 200. This increase has arisen, not from the introduction of manufactories or public works, (there are none such ; and a brewery, which was for- merly carried on at Trabroun, has for many years been given up,) but from the general improvement of the parish. The whole pa- rish, many parts of which about a century ago were bleak and barren, covered with broom, and furze, and brambles, has been gradually brought into a state of high cultivation, and made ca- pable of producing all kinds of crops. In consequence of which, a stimulus has been given to improvement, which, notwithstanding the great depression in the prices of grain, is still going on, and gives employment to a far greater number of families than former- ly. Besides, the greater demand for coals, occasioned by the in- creased consumption from steam engines, must have given employ- ment to an additional number of families. The population resid- ing in the villages of Samuelston, Penston, and Longniddry, amounts to 684; in the country, 974. In that part of the parish inhabited by colliers, the population is constantly shifting, and in the course of two or three weeks may vary from 20 to 50. • This shifting has prevailed very much, of late, in consequence of a change of tenants. The average number of births, for the last five years, was 51, the number varying from 40 to 59. The average number of marriages for the same time was 16, varying from 10 to 24. No account of deaths being kept, the average number cannot be ascertained. There are several persons in the parish above eighty, chiefly men, two of whom have now reached their ninetieth year. The number of fa- milies is 358. The number of inhabited houses is 343. Intheagri- GLADSMUIR. 187 cultural part of the parish, five houses are uninhabited. A conside- rable number of houses allotted for colliers were empty some time ago, but are now mostly occupied* No houses are at present building. There are three fetuous persons connected with the parish, two men, both above middle age, and one woman. There is also a little girl deaf. Character and Habits of the People. — The people in general are cleanly and attentive to their dress. Their manners have acquir- ed a considerable degree of polish, arising in some measure from their vicinity to the capital, and from the great intercourse that is now maintained all over the country. That rusticity of manners and dress, and outlandish appearance which some time ago cha- racterized our rural population, are fast wearing away, and t]ie manners and dress of the people are rapidly improving. The la« bouriog classes here are in no want of employment, enjoying many of the comforts of life, and in general seem to be contented .with their condition. And at no former time, perhaps, was their con- dition more favourable, — for while the necessaries of life, both with respect to food and clothing, are low in price, tlieir wages arc nearly the same as when things were double their present value. Their food is plain but substantial ; they are in the midst of coal ; and they want only comfortable houses to make their situation what it should be.* * The lands of Samuelston were so much infested by witches in 1661t that John Earl of Haddington, to appease his tenants, was under tlie necessity of presenting a petition to his Majesty's commissioner, for the purpose of getting them tried by a court of judicature. The following extract from this conunifssion shews that the arts of darkness continued to be practised by numerous bodies, to the no small terror of the li^gea. M Edr, 3d April 1601. ConitnUsion fir Judging of WlicTies, ^c. in SamueltHm, — To the Ri^t Hon. His Majestie's Commissioner, his Grace, and the Lordis, and others of the Parliament appoyntit fur the Articles, the humble petitioun of John Earl of Haddingtoun, Sheweth, — That, upon scverall maleficcs committit of late within and about my landis of Samuelstounc, thair being severall persones suspect of the abomi- nable lin of witchcraft apprehendit and searched, the marks of witches wer found on thame in the ordinarie way, scverallis of thame haif made confcssioun, and haif dilatit sundrie others within the saidis boundes, and haif acknowledged pactioun with the devile. Tliair names are tlicse : Elspet Tailyeor in Samuclstoune, Margaret Bartil- nuuiy Mareoun Quheitt, Janet Carfrae. These haif nuud confessioun alreacUe. Otheris they haif dilatit as partakeris of the same cryvac with thame, viz. Christianc Deanea, Agnes Williamsone. Tlies are dilatit be the former, and the marks are found on thamcy quha ar lykwayes apprehendit, otherLs are lykewayes dilatit by thame, namelie, Helene Deanes, George Milnetowne, Patrik Cathie, Anna Pilmure, Eli. •ibeth Sinclair, Margaret Baptie, Janet Maissone, and Margaret Argyile, Elspeth Crawfbrd. Thes are dilatit be the former confessing, hot ar not as yet ai>prchendit nor learched. And trew it is, that throw the frcquencie of the said sin of witchcraft in the saides boundes, my haill tenentes there tliroatnes to leave my ground without jnatioe be done on these persones. And becaus the lawes ar now silent, this sin be- oomea daylie more frequent. Also, thair (ar) two otheris persones apprehendit for fthift in the foresaide boundes, quhom I haif intertained in prlsone within the tolbuith 188 HADDINGTONSHIRE. During the last three years, there were 9 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. The two great divisions of labour carried on in the parish are agriculture and mining, or the working of coals. Agriculture is the principal employment of the people. There are 22 farmers in the parish, occupying land from above 50 to 500 acres each ; 9 smaller farmers, occupying from 10 to 40 acr& each ; and 5 sub- tenants, occupying under 40 acres each. Some of those farmers retain upon their farms, including hinds and their families, and la- bourers, from 50 to 76 individuals. On the farm of Coates, there is a resident population of 76; pn that of Hairlaw, 67, besides others who do not reside upon the farm. The inhabitants of Pen- sion, Henmuir, North mains of Penston, and M*Merry contain- ing a population of betwixt 400 and 500, are chiefly employed in the working of coal, llie great London road running through the parish about two miles and a-half, the public road running through Longniddry about two miles, and the North Berwick road of Hadingtoun upon my ain chairges thes ten weikes by-ganc ; and other two ar ap- prehendit for robbcric committit be thame within my boundcs and landes of Byr» thcs twentic weikes bygane, within the tolbuith of Edinburgh, upon my own chairges.** The Lord Commissioner and Lords of the Articles, after hearing the petition, granted a commission for putting to death such of the above persons as were founds guilty of witchcraft by confession, and for trying the others, which, if we may credit tradition, was put into execution. The field in Samuelston where they were burnt was called the Birlic Knowe, and was situated on the south side of the village, be- tween the Tyne and the mill-dam, where, within these few years, (it being now ploughed up) kimmers ble^hed their linens clean, and found it a very useful spoty unhallowed as it was. About this time, a warlock drove a lucrative trade, called Sandie Hunter, (alias Hamilton,) whom it is said the devil nick-named Hattaraick. He was origi* nally a nolt-herd in £&st Lothian, and was famous for curing diseases both in man and in beast, by words and charms. W herever Hattaraick went, none durst reftise him an alms. One day he went to the gate of Samuelston, when some friends after dinner were taking to horse, a young gentleman, brother to the lady, switched him about the ears, saying, " You warlock carle, what have you to do here ?*' — whereupcm the fellow went away grumbling, and was heard to say, " You dear buy thisereitbe long.** After supper the gentleman took horse and departed, and crossing Tyne wft- ter to go home, he passed through a shady piece of a haugh called the A Hers. What he saw there, he would never reveal, but next day he was m a high state of delirium, and had to be bound. The Lady Samuelston hearing of this said, *' Surely the knare Hattaraick is the cause of this trouble ; call for him in all haste.*' When the warlock came, " Sandie," says she, " what is this you have done to my brother William ?**-i- " I told him,** replied he, " I should make him repent his striking of mc at the yait lately.'* She giving the rogue fair words, and promising him his sack fuU of meal* with beef and cheese, persuaded the fellow to cure him, which was speedily effected. When Hattaraick came to receive his wages, he told the lady her brother would' shortly leave the country, never to return ; upon which, she caused him to make a de« position of his property to the defrauding of his brother George. After the warlock had pursued his lucrative calling for some time, he was apprehended at Dunbar, taken to Edinburgh and burnt on the Castlehill Satan's Invisible World. Sinclair, from whom the substance of the above is copied, says, that he had the in* fi>rmation from the gentleman's brother.-^St Baldred of the Bass, p. 276-8. GLADSMUIR. 189 upon the coast, with the cross and parish roads, emp loy in winter 80, and in summer about 20 men. These men and day-labourers receive from Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. per day. There are 7 carpenters who employ, upon an average, 10 men as journeymen or appren- tices ; last year their wages were 2s. 6d. per day. There are 2 masons, wages ds. per day ; 9 blacksmiths, wages from 2s. 6d. to 8s. per day ; 2 bakers, wages from Is. to Is. 6d. per day, with vic- tuals ; 4 tailors, who are generally paid by the piece, and whose wa- ges have not risen lately, in proportion to the rise in some other professions; 2 weavers, one of whom is an old man, and able to do very little worL There are employed at the Penston coal-works 50 colliers, 80 women putters, and 26 boys ; and at the St Gcrmains col- liery, residing in this parish, 12 colliers, besides women putters and children. A collier and his putter throw out, at an ave- rage, fifteen load of coc'ils per day, which is equal to 4s. 4^d. But as there are frequent interruptions, their income can hardly be rated so high for any length of time. The general income of a man and his putter may be stated at from L. 1, Is. to L. 1, 5s. per week ; a load of coal weighs 200 pounds, for which they re- ceive d^d. Men-servants living in the house have from L. 4 to Lfc6 half yearly ; women-servants from L. 2, lOs. to L. i3. Agriculture. — The parish of Gladsmuir contains very nearly 5080 Scotch, or 6386 imperial acres, arable. Some parts of it, particularly the lands upon the north, to the extent of about one mile and a-half from the coast, and running east towards the Byres hills, were very early cultivated, and about the beginning of the se- venteenth century bore a very high valuation ; as may be seen from an account of some of the parishes of East Lothian, lately printed by Mr McDonald of the Register- Office. Other parts, particular- ly the lands in the centre, intersected by the great Loudon road, are of recent cultivation, and of an inferior soil. Here, however, improvements are rapidly going on ; lands that long lay waste have been reclaimed, and are now under the most improved sys- tem of husbandry. And notwithstanding the very low prices of grain, and the many discouragements from that circumstance, in the way of both landlords and tenants, the spirit of improvement seems to surmount every obstacle. As a proof of this, steam en- gines for thrashing the crops have been erected on many of the farms, and there are at present in the parish no less than ten em- ployed for that purpose. It is in contemplation to erect more. HADDINGTON. N 190 HADDINOTONSHIRE. In cropping, rotations of five, six, seven, and eight years are fol- lowed. The most common are five and seven years. The five years rotation consists of, 1. fallow ; 2. wheat, barley, and oats ; d. and 4. pasture ; 5. oats. The seven years rotation is, 1. turnips and po- tatoes ; 2. barley and wheat ; 3. and 4. grass ; 5. oats ; 6. beans ; 7. wheat. The eight years rotation is, 1. fallow ; 2. wheat ; 3. bar- ley ; 4. and 5. grass ; 6. oats ; 7. beans ; 8. wheat The kinds of manure employed are byre and stable dung ; lime and earth collected from cleaning ditches, roads, &c mixed with lime, forming compost ; rape, and bone dust. The rape dust is very generally used. Iron ploughs and harrows are almost uni- versally employed. Machines for sowing grain are getting more and more into use. Turnips are eaten upon the ground with sheep, or brought home to feed cattle bought in about the end of harvest, to be fattened for the butcher, while the straw is convert- ed into manure by cattle kept in the close. Live Stock. — The number of sheep kept in the parish has of late been upon the increase, and is now betwixt 2000 and 3000. They are bought in as they are required, and are black-faced, but chiefly Cheviot, and a cross breed of Cheviot and Leicester. The milk cows are not of any particular breed. There are a considerable number of the Ayrshire. They are reared or bought as occasion requires, and not more than two or three are kept by each feirmer to supply his family with milk and butter. Black-cattle are bought in at the end of harvest, and fed off on turnips for the market. The num- ber of these may amount to about 500. There are 78^ plough- gates requiring 172 horses. Twenty-six are kept for riding and occasional work, and 20 for driving carriages, making in all 218 horses, besides young ones. The duration of leases is nineteen years. I believe there are no exceptions to this rule. Such a length of time affords the far- mer sufficient opportunity to remunerate himself for the expense laid out in the cultivation of his farm. The farms are all enclos- ed, mostly with thorn hedges and ditches ; and the hedges and ditches are well kept. The farm buildings have been much im- proved in the course of the last year, and repairs and improve- ments are still going on. It is to be hoped, as soon as the project- ed improvements have been made upon the farm-houses and of- fices, the attention of the proprietors will be directed to the cot- houses, most of which have great need of improvement There are 240 Scotch or 302 imperial acres under wood, includ- GLADSMUIR. 191 iog belts for shelter, shrubberies, and ornamental planting; 34 impe- rial occupied with houses, offices, gardens, and common patches in vfllages ; and H with roads, making in all 5353 Scotch or 6751 imperial acres in the parish. Bent of Landy and Wages. — The rent of land varies from L. 5 an acre to less than L. 1. The average of the whole, this present year, the price of wheat being very low, will be nearly L. 1, 12s. per Scots acre. Farm-servants are hired by the year, and paid partly in money and partly in kind, as follows : 6^ bolls of meal, 4 bolls potatoes, 2 bolls barley, i boll pease, 2 stones pork, when pigs are not kept, a cow's grass, and L. 8, 10s. money, with a house, for which the servant furnishes a shearer in harvest for twenty days. When a cow's grass is not given, L. 5 money addi- tional is allowed. In some farms, there is a little difference in the articles which make up the wages ; but the amount is nearly the same all over the parish, being equal to from I a 21 to L. 24 money, this present year. In some instances, they are paid in money, and receive 9s. per week. The farm-servants are generally bound to keep bondagers, as they are called, that is, persons to work in the bam and 6elds when required. They are females or boys, and if the hinds have none of this description in their own families, they must hire them. It was long the practice to hire farm-servants at Christmas or the end of the year, but a resolution was entered into by the tenantry lately, not to hire them till the beginning of February. The average rent of grazing, as near as can be computed, is L. 3 per ox or cow, and 15s. per ewe or full-grown sheep, pastured for the year. Draining^ 4'c. — Draining is carried on not only in the parish, but in the neighbourhood, to a very great extent. There is little under water, and therefore the object of the farmer is to prevent water from lodging on the surface and injuring the crops. Tiles are chiefly employed, and the drains are frequently made in every alternate furrow, and sometimes even in every furrow. They vary in depth from eighteen to twenty-four inches, and the expense of makingthe drains and furnishing the tiles is from lOd. to Is. the rood. Sometimes, the proprietor furnishes the tiles as an encouragement to the tenant to use them in draining his fields. At other times, the whole expense is borne by the tenant himself. The universal opi- nion among farmers seems to be, that the increase of the crop soon repays all the expense of the drains. Stones also are used, but rarely since tiles have been introduced, they having been found to 192 HADDINGTONSHIRE. answer the purpose. Sometimes stones are employed along with the tiles. This is undoubtedly the most effectual mode ; but the objection to it is, that it is both tedious and expensive, — whereas the advantage of tiles, is, that the work is performed with great ex- pedition, and with little expense of carriage. In some parts of the parish where the soil is deep, particularly at Southfield, trenching has been practised to a considerable ex- tent. Upon this subject there is a diversity of opinion, — some main- tain that the new earth brought to the surface requires a conside- rable number of years before it get into a proper bearing state. This opinion, however, is far from being general ; and many hold that the new soil brought to the surface, after a long period of rest, becomes far more productive, the old having been exhausted by continual cropping. The expense of the process must be a great obstacle in the way of its being carried on. Amount of raw Produce, — In the present circumstances of the parish, the amount of raw produce cannot be very accurately as- certained. Several of the tenants entered upon their farms only last year, and hence their farms were not cropped, either as they had been before, or as they vrill afterwards be. The farmers, in general, have made the returns required with the greatest readi- ness. According to the statements received, the amount for 1835 was nearly as follows : White crop, including wheat, barley, and oats, . 2060 acres. Green crop, including beans and pease, potatoes, turnips, cabbage, and mangel wurzel, ...... 848 Pasture, including links, . . . • . 1160 Bare fallow, . . . . .714 The value of all which, estimated according to last year's markets, will be about L. 30,000. The gardens in the parish are not deserving of particular no- tice. The three mansion-houses, Elvingston, Redcoll, and South- field, which last belongs to Lord Wemyss, and is occupied by the tenant, have each of them gardens inclosed with a good wall, where all kinds of vegetables are raised, and which are well stocked with fruit trees. Several of the farm-houses have also gardens attach- ed to them surrounded with a wall, in which all kinds of vegetables and fruits are reared. The tenant at Redhouse, on the northern extremity of the parish, has a large mail-garden, the produce of which is disposed of chiefly in the Edinburgh market ; but, as most of the garden lies in the parish of Aberlady, it does not fall to be IB. 193 taken oocioe of here. The grvss produce of all the gardens ma} amount to about L^ 200. Tlie two coal-pits now wrought on the Penston property pro* duoe from 12,000 to 1^,000 tons a-year. V. ��� Parochial Economy, Tlie nearest market-town is Haddington, which is about four miles distant from the church. It was long the princi^xil grain mariLet in Scotland ; but most of the &rmer^ in the wostom |virt« of the county carry the greater part of their grain to IXdkoith and Edinburgh, to both of which places Haddington is now iuforior as a grain market. rHkyes. — There are three villages in the {virish, — Samuolstoiu Longniddry, and Penston. Of these, Saniuelston contains a ^h^- puhtion of 187. It is an irregular scattered village* situato on the north bank of the I'yne, running north-east by SiUith-wost. In former times, it carried on a considerable trade in moaU but though there are still two com mills, the trade has ver\' much dwindliHl away. There is also a saw-mill attached to one of the coni-inills, which is of great use in cutting out paling and pieces of woihU for various purposes. There are three farms connecteil with it, Kast- mains, Backbrae, and Templehouse,* besides two smaller pieces of land given to the villagers for their accommodation. Longniddry is situated about half a mile fn^n the Frith, and is also an irregular straggling village. It is complotoly changinl from what it once was. In former times, four tenants lived in it, — one in Cooper^s Close, one in Burnfoot Close, and one on each side of the road, about the middle of the village, — who had each a considera- ble &rm. The proi^erty has been very much dinunished, and the whole has been thrown into one farm, with the exception of a few fields rented by some labourers in the villagi*, who employ horses for carrying on their business. The present farm-house, which is commodious and of good appearance, stands about 1200 yanls to the south of the road, running through the village. lit»twixt that hotise and the road, there were formerly a considerable mnnber of cot-houses, not a vestige of which now remains, and the placo where they stood is under crop, and very productive. The pre- sent mansion-house, which is let, stands about a guu-shot to the west of Cooper's Close. The garden is innncdiately in front, the * Besides Templehouse in Suinuclston, Uiure was in former times in tlu* puriHh another place of this name, situntc in a field betwixt Iloprig Mains and the piiblir rosd. Some of the old |>eopIc remember having seen the house*. 1 94 HADDINGTONSHIRE. offices on the west, with a small court, having altogether a deso- late appearance. On the east, are the ruins of the old chapel, cal- led John Knox's Kirk, and an old barn and stack-yard, occupied by one of the inhabitants, who has a small piece of land from the proprietor. Adjoining the offices to the west, some of the inhabi- tants remember several rows of houses, forming a little village of themselves, all of which have been swept away, without a stone re- maining to mark the place where they once stood. One old man remembers seventy houses being taken down. At that time, the farm of Southfield formed a part of the Longniddry estate. The present population of the village is 195. The village of Penston is chiefly inhabited by colliers. The farm-house is at the west end of it, and is commodious and in good repair. A handsome set of offices, with a steam-engine, has just been erected, and also a saw-mill. The houses in the village are in a state of bad repair ; the place is altogether dirty, and, though situated in the heart of one of the finest agricultural districts of Scotland, has a very uncomfortable and unhealthy appearance. It stands upon an eminence, about half a mile to the south of the great English road, and a mile west from Gladsmuir kirk. The inhabitants are supplied with water from three open wells, one at Northmains, another behind the old manse to the east, and an- other to the west of the farm-house, all on a line running from east to west. Were a proper drain to be formed on each side of the road, with a declivity from the houses, it would contribute much to the cleanliness and health of the place. The present popula- tion is 302. Means of Communication.^-'The means of communication en- joyed by the parish are very abundant. The great London road runs about two miles and a half through the centre of the parish. Along that road, six stage-coaches pass and repass every day, at different hours, besides the mail-coach. On the coast road, the North Berwick coach passes and repasses every day, besides car^ riers to Aberlady, Dirleton, and North Berwick, on different days of the week. There is also the road running from Coates, past Setonhill and Hairlaw, through Longniddry to the west. These ' roads are intersected by others running north and south, the whole breadth of the parish. They are all kept in good repair, by which means the facilities of intercourse are very great. The bridges in the parish are merely little arches, suited to the paltry streams of water that flow through them. GLADSMUIR. 195 Ecdetiastical State. — The church is situate nearly in the centre of the parish, and is accessible to all the inhabitants. None are fiuther distant from it than two and a half or three miles; and they do not seem to think the distance of much consequence, for the most distant are as regular in their attendance as those who are nearest It stands upon the highest point of the ridge be- twixt Tranent and Haddington, about 350 feet above the level of the sea, and 240 to the north of the great road. The situation is one of the finest in Scotland. On the north, it commands an ex- tensive view of the Frith of Forth, with the county of Fife stretch- ing beyond : to the east, all those objects that are most picturesque, the Byres hills, North Berwick Law, with the rich country around, the Bass and Traprane Law. On the south, the vale of the Tyne, with the Lammermuirs in the back ground, and to the west the Ochils, and some of the distant hills of Dumbarton and Perthshire, with lioith, Edinburgh, the Pentlands, and the rich country inter- ▼ening. But, though beautiful in point of situation, its appearance 18 mean and ruinous. It is small, cold, damp, and in bad repair. The churchyard is sufficiently large for the parish, but it is very wet. The greater part of it is surrounded by a wall, which is much broken down; the remaining part is protected by an hedge, which also is in a state of great decay. The church affords accommo- dation for 535 sitters, being at least 200 less than would be re- quired for the accommodation of the parish. The heritors grant- ed to the kirk- session sixty-two sittings, chiefly those set apart for the communion tables, to be let for a small price to the peo- ple when required. These seats are let at Is. each, and when not let, are occupied by those who cannot be accommodated other- wise. The rest of the sittings as usual are allotted to the heritors, according to their respective properties in the parish. The church was built by Baillie of Lamington in 1695. The present manse was built in 1725, previous to which the mi- nisters lived in what is still called the old manse, about a mile to the south-west of the church. The late incumbent finding the manse too small for his family, got a considerable addition made to it in 1803, consisting of a large room below, and two smaller rooms above. When the present incumbent came to the parish in 1833, consi- derable improvements were made upon the offices, and they are now in a state of pretty good repair. About twenty years ago, the garden was inclosed with a good stone wall, which was built by the heritors, the tenants having agreed to drive the carriages. But, 196 HADDINGTONSHIRE. besides what is enclosed, there is at least a rood outside the walls all around where all kinds of crops are raised. The glebe is small, consisting only of about 5 acres, including garden, barn-yard, &c The soil is loamy, upon a clayey bottom. Most of it has been drained with tile and stones within these two years. This year, the field immediately behind the manse, which was wet, uneven, and full of weeds, has been drained and trenched, with the view of its being laid down in grass, in a more favourable state. The annual value of the glebe, estimating it according to the lands in the neighbourhood, is about L. 8. The stipend con- sists of about 84 boUsof wheat, 137 bolls of barley, 24 bolls of oats, d5 bolls of meal, with L. 10 for communion elements, the amount of which varies according to the fiars of the county.* There are no chapels nor dissenting meeting-houses in the pa- rish. The number of persons of all ages attending the Establish- ed Church varies from 400 to 500. Those who are in the prac- tice of attending are never all present at the same time. From the uncomfortable state of the church, many are prevented from at- tending who otherwise would do it ; and a considerable number are very irregular in their attendance. The average number of com- municants is 500. It is not easy to ascertain how many attend dis- senting places of worship. The number, however, may be stated to be betwixt 40 and 50. All this leaves a very considerable pro- portion of the examinable persons of the parish who are not pre- sent at any place of public worship on the Lord's day. A society for religious purposes was instituted, in the beginning of last year. The design of it was to promote the progress of reli- gion in the parish, and to contribute to the objects recommended by the General Assembly. Its contributions during the first year of its existence amounted to L.6; and they are now upon the in- crease. The average annual amount of church collections for reli- gious and charitable purposes, for the last five years, is about L. 20. Education, — Besides the parochial, there are four private schools in the parish. The parochial school is situate at Gladsmuir, close by the church and manse, and is very much shut up by the school- master's garden. The number attending the school is, upon an * There have been eight ministers of Gladsmuir since its erection. I. Mango Watson ; 2. John Bell ; .3. Seatbrura ; 4. Andrew Robertson ; 5. William Robertson, ordained 17th April 1744; 6. Francis Cowan, ordained 5th April 1769; 7. George Hamilton, ordained 15th April 1790; 8. John Ramsay, admitted 14tli February 1833. GLADSMUIR. 197 ATerage, betwixt 80 and 100. The branches taught are such as are usual in parish schools, including Latin, Greek, French, and the practical parts of mathematics. The salary is the maximum. Lb 34) 4s. 4^. ; and the school fees amount to L. 40. The hours of attendance are, in winter, from nine to half-past three, with half an hour of interval ; and in summer, from nine to four, with an hour of interval. The school-house is too small ; but in other reqpects, it is comfortable enough. The schoolmaster's house is laige and commodious, consisting of two apartments below and three above, with closets. It is damp, however. The apartments are very low in the roof, and have much need of repairs. The schoolmaster holds also the offices of session-clerk and heritors' cleri^ the fees of which amount to about L. 30 a-year. There has been a school in the village of Samuelston, from time hnoiemorial. In former times, the master was allowed L. *2 a-vear from the heritors; but that has been discontinued for a consider- able time. Some years ago, when the schoolmasters' salaries were augmented, an attempt was made to get a chaldcr of victual to be divided betwixt the schoolmasters of Samuelston and Longniddry ; but it could not be obtained. The schoolmaster of Samuelston has a free house and school-house ; and he got lately from the pro- prietor a small piece of ground, as garden ground. That, with the school fees, is all he has to live upon. The school fees are small, and the number of scholars upon an average is about 30, af- fording the schoolmaster an annual income of about L. 15, a mi- serable pittance for the support of a man who holds the oflice of a schoolmaster. Were the schoolmaster of Gladsniuir to depend entirely upon voluntary support, his income could hardly be ex- pected to be much better. To what a lamentable state would edu- cation in the country be then reduced ! There is also a school at Longniddry of long standing. Here, too^ the schoolmaster is furnished with a free house and school- house. Two years ago, when a new schoolmaster was appointed, the people, very much to their credit, got the school-house repair- ed and fitted up in a handsome manner. And last year, the dwelling-house having only one apartment^ had another added to it, which makes the house pretty commodious. This is the more praiseworthy, as the people are all of the labouring class. The average number of scholars there, last season, was 60. An evening school is also kept for the benefit of those who are at work, through the day. Besides the school fees, the teacher at Longniddry has 198 HADDINGTONSHIRE. two guineas a^-year granted him by the proprietor, and the same sum by the Earl of Wemyss, which, though small, is a consider- able addition to his income, and is creditable to the Noble proprie- tors, who thus contribute to the education of the labouring poor, and in this way essentially promote the improvement of the com- munity. The annual income of the teacher here may amount to about L. 25. A school is also taught at the village of Penston, about a mile to the south-west of Gladsmuir, and consequently within reach of the parish school. This village being chiefly inhabited by colliers, the children are sent early to work ; and, after labouring one part of the day, they are sent to school, another part of the day, when there is a school at hand ; but were the distance considerable, this object could not be accomplished. It was with a view to such accommodation, that a school was erected and is still kept up at Penston. The teacher has to find a house for himself; and the school-house, through neglect, is in a wretched condition. The number of scholars is small, — last year not exceeding 25. The in- habitants are constantly shifting ; and lately the teacher was at the point of giving up the school for want of support. He is an old man, and his whole income last year did not amount to L. 10. Besides these schools, there is one at Cotyburn, a solitary place at the north-eastern extremity of the parish. This school is taught by a man who was in the army, and has a small weekly pension from Government. He has a dwelling-house and school-house at- tached to it ; for both of which he pays rent. The average num- ber of his scholars is 24, thus affording him an income of about L. 10, which, with his pension from Government, affords him a scanty subsistence. The price of education per week is from 3d. to 6d., or from 7s. 6d. to 13s. 6d. a-year, calculating the year at three quarters ; for, in country schools, the vacations are long, and seldom more than three quarters are paid for. And as Is. is paid for coals during the winter, the annual expense of education for the common branches amounts to from 8s. 6d. to 14s. 6d., — besides the expense of books, which is small considered by itself, but great to those labourers who have three or four children at school, and who have themselves an income not exceeding L. 25 a-year. Sunday Schools, — There are 3 Sunday schools in the parish, — one at Penston, the number of scholars attending which has, for some years, been very fluctuating. This arises, partly from the GLADSMUIB. 199 diflSculty of obtaining teachers properly quaU6ed, and partly irora the changes that are constantly taking place in the population. There is another at Longniddry. It began about two years ago. It is well taught and well attended, and has already been produc- tiTe of much good in the neighbourhood. The third is at Tra- broun, superintended by the Misses Law. But as that property has just been sold, it is doubtful whether this school will be con- tinued. Parents send their children to school at different ages. Some are sent when only four years old ; others not till they are seven or eight But care is taken that sooner or later all be taught to read. When the parents cannot afford to pay for them, they are paid for from the poors' fund, or by charitable individuals who take an interest in them. In this parish, the schools are so situated that they are accessible to all the inhabitants. There are none, as far as I know, above fifteen years of age who cannot read ; but there are many who cannot write. And there are some who have been very imperfectly educated themselves, and, having felt the evils of a neglected education, are anxious to have their children properly instructed. Libraries. — There are no parochial libraries in the parish. This want is supplied by three itinerating ones, which are stationed in each of the three villages of the parish. These libraries, after re- maining two years in their stations, are returned, and new ones sent in their place. In this way, the attention of the people is kept up by a regular succession of new books, which are well selected and arranged under the superintendence of Mr Samuel Brown at Haddington. Societies, — There are 2 friendly societies in the parish, — one at Longniddry of old standing, and another at Penston, instituted in 1823, both of which are in a thriving state. At Penston, a Mort- cloth Society was set on foot more than fifty years ago, by Lady Ross Baillie of Lamington, for the benefit of her colliers there. None but colliers connected with the coal-work have a right to be- come members. Lady Ross presented the society with three mort- cloths, and that number has been kept up ever since for the use of the members, who have now acquired a prescriptive right to em- ploy their own mortcloths, when they bury their dead in the church- yard of Gladsmuir. At Penston, there is also a Coffin Society, the object of which is to discontinue the use of mortcloths altogether. The members are furnished by the society with coffins, decently 200 HADDINGTONSHIRE. covered with black cloth, and no mortcloths are used. Those who are not members may also obtain a coffin from the society, at a cheap rate, by paying for it. This Society was instituted about two years ago. Besides these, there is a yearly Society at Penston, the mem- bers of which draw sick money in case of illness, and receive a sum of money for the burial of their dead. Connected with the parish is a Frame Society for the protection of the dead, to which the greater part of the parish belong. The safes are of malleable iron, and of a construction such as is usually employed. When used, they are generally sunk about two or three feet below the surface of the ground. A Savings' Bank was instituted some years ago, but itgra^ dually died away, and now no longer exists. A Curling Society was begun in December last, but there having been very little frost, the ice was never in a condition to be played upon, and the members of course were deprived of an opportunity of displaying their skill. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons upon the poors' roll is 41 ; and the average sum allowed to each per week is 1 s. dd. The sum allowed varies according to circumstances. Some get Is., some 2s., some ds., and one family gets 4s. per week. In addition to which, most of them get a cart of coals, in the course of the winter. A collection is made at the church for this purpose, which comes far short of what is laid out for coals. Whatever is deficient is taken from the poors' fund. Besides those who receive a regular allowance, there are always some who receive occasional aid, in cases of distress or unexpected misfortunes. Five, in addi- tion to their weekly allowance, get their house rents paid. The average amount of annual contributions for their relief for five years is L. 200, 9s. 3d. of which L. 167, 17s. arises from an assessment which is laid on once a-year, at a meeting of heritors called for the purpose. The collections at the church amount to L. 16, 6s. 5d.; mortcloths L. 4, 18s. 2d.; putting in stones for marking burial ground 17s. 5d. ; seat rents, lis. 7d. ; marriages, &c. L. 1, 8s. 8d.; interest of a bill for L. 170, L. 8, 10s. The poor, with a very few exceptions, are all paid in money, and, there- fore, in the present depressed state of the grain market, their allow- ance is much greater than when provisions are dearer. The poor in general have little reluctance to apply for parochial aid, when- ever they think it can be obtained. Children also who are living in comfortable circumstances, are very much disposed to leave their aged parents to shift for themselves, or to get relief for them from the parish. The^collections at the church are very small, chiefly OLADSMUIR. 201 ftmft an idea, which very generally prevails among the labouring efaunes, that there is no occasion for them to give any thing to the poor, because what they give is just so much saved to the proprie- ton, who are bound by law to support them. In this way the di- nne law of charity, in these times of innovation, is too generally evaded. Mehmufs, — Thereare, at present, in the parish, ten public houses, or houses licensed for retailing spirits. It cannot be doubted that 80 many of them, when they are not needed, have a very pernicious influence upon the morals of the people. When there are so many persons anxious to get customers to their houses, they cannot be expected to be very careful to prevent that excess in drinking which prevails among us to such an extent The act permit- ting publicans to keep their houses open on Sundays ought im- mediately to be abolished, as one of the most ill-advised that was ever sanctioned by a British Parliament. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the former Statistical Account was drawn up, a striking im- provement has taken place in the roads, in the cultivation, drain- ing and fencing of the fields. Different kinds of manure have also been employed with success. The farm-houses and offices have undergone a proportional improvement. In consequence of the de- pressed state of the markets, some of the tenants are beginning to throw more of their fields into pasture, which promises not only to make them a suitable return, but which will prevent them from be- ing exhausted by overcropping. It also appears from tlie former Statistical Account, that 134 black-cattle were kept ; now they amount to 500. Then the number of sheep was 100 ; now they amount to betwixt 2000 and 3000. Then rape-cake and bone dust were never thought of as a manure ; now they are very much employed. All this shews the great attention that is paid to the enriching and improving of the soil. The wages of labourers and tradesmen also have risen almost an half, while the price of provi- sions and clothes has been as low as at that period. Gladsmuir kirk has often been remarked as liable to be struck by lightning. A remarkable instance of this happened 21st July 1769. It is thus described in the former Statistical Account : — ** A thunder-storm began in the north, and came gradually nearer, having circled round by the west. The school, where above seventy children were then assembled, unfortunately stood in its way. The thunder burst upon the house, and seemed at first to 202 HADDINGTONSHIRE. have levelled it with the ground. The walls were rent, the windows shattered, and the roof demolished. A thick darkness, caused by the smoke and dust, for a while concealed the extent of the mis- chief. When it subsided, the neighbours who first entered, anxious for the fate of their children, had reason to fear the worst; for few signs of life appeared. The whole crowd of little ones, either stun- ned or terrified, lay stretched upon the ground beneath the tables or benches where they sat. Many were quite senseless, but after- wards recovered. Two boys were killed outright, and the master with many others much injured. The effect of such a scene is not soon worn off from the minds of children. A black cloud still ter- rifies the whole school, and a clap of thunder more than ordinarily loud, scatters the whole little troop in an instant." Another instance afterwards occurred. While a storm of thunder and lightning was passing over the place, the family at the manse were alarmed, and darkened the windows. The females crowded together in the middle of the dining-room for shelter. One of the maids who had occasion to go up stairs, had no sooner got to the bottom of the stair, than the lightning struck the house and killed her in an in- stant. To prevent such &tal accidents in future, conductors were placed upon the manse, and are still there. September 1886. PARISH OF DIRLETON. PRESBYTERY OF HADDINOTON, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JOHN AINSLIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. • ' Name. — The parish of Dirleton lies in the county of Hadding- ton. The etymology of the name is very doubtful, some deriving it from the Scottish ^* dirly** which signifies a tremulous motion ; others from DeriH, who was King of the Picts about the end of the seventh century, and is believed to have been the friend and coad* jutor of Baldred, who first built Christian churches in East Lo-* * In drawing up this account, the writer begi to acknowledge his great oblintloBS to John P. Wood, Esq.; Robert Hope, Esq. Fentonbams; and Mr Hendertoo, parochial teacher. DIRLETON. 203 thian. Brudi V., son of Derili, granted the island of Lochleven to St Serf and the Culdees residing there.* (Hist Culd. 131.) The village of Gulane, two miles to the west of Dirleton, for- merly gave its name to the parish. Its old name was Grolyn, so called from an adjoining piece of water, now drained ; Golyn in the British signifying a little lake. Extent and Boundaries. — This parish forms the most northern part of the county. From east to west it is 5 J miles in length ; its greatest breadth from north to south is 4^ miles. It is bound- ed on the north by the Frith of Forth ; on the south by the Pef- fer, a rivulet which separates it from the parish of Athelstane- ford; on the east by the par