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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I I % \ THE NEW STATISTI C AL ACCOUNT OP SCOTLAND. VOL. V. THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT or SCOTLAND. BY THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE .SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLEROT. VOL. V. AYB-BUTE. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. « » J to 00 AYR. CONTENTS. ARDROSSAN, . PAGE 191 AUCHINLECK, 322 AYR, • I BALLANTRAE, 415 BARR, 407 BBITH, . 570 COLUONELL, . 528 COYLTON, 649 CRAIGIE, 764 CUMNOCK, NEW, ^ 509 CUMNOCK, OLD, 475 DA1LLY, . -v 381 DALMELLINGTON, 308 DALRY, 210 DALRYMPLE, 273 DREGHORN, 523 DUNDONALD, 666 DUNLOP, 288 FENWICK, 773 GALSTON, 178 GIRVAN, 394 KRYINE, 619 KILBIRNIB, 689 KILBRIDE, WEST, . 243 KIIMABNOCK, 535 KILMAURS, 769 KILWINNING, 811 KIRKMICBABL, 492 KIRKOSWALD, » 781 LARGS, ^ 786 LOUDON, 834 v^ ^ ■'? ' ^^Q • • • VIU CONTENTS. MAUCHLINB, MATBOLE, HONKTON AND PRE8TWICK, MUIRKIRK, NEW CUMNOCK, NCWTON'ON-AYR, OCHILTREE, OLD CUMNOCK, RICCARTON, ST QUI VOX, SORN, STAIR, STBTENSTON, STBWARTON, STRAITON, SYMINGTON, TORBOLTON, WEST KILBRIDE, PAGE 158 348 169 147 509 86 105 475 605 • 118 126 637 426 727 333 565 741 243 PARISH OF AYR. PRSSBYTBRY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GL4SGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ROBERT AULD, D. D. 1 vrfVTTQxi7PG THE REV. ALEXANDER CUTHILL, j ^ajnimi!.k&. I. — Topography and Natural History. Etymology, — Ayr, in all probability, derived its name from the river at whose mouth it stands, which appears to have given the same designation also to the parish, the bay, and the county. But whence was the name itself derived ? There are rivers, it is said, bearing the same appellative, and having likely the same common etymology, in England, France, Switzerland, and in almost every country in Europe. In the formation of language, proper names, in particular, often take their rise from some quality in the ob- jects to which they have become affixed. This has been obvious* ly the case in regard to the rivers Ayr and Doon. In Celtic, to which the word must undoubtedly be traced, Ar literally signifies clear, and Dhu or Dhim dark, and those qualities are sufficiently characteristic of the streams which they designate. The latter, in consequence of running through a soft deep bog near its head, re- ceives a black mossy tinge, which it retains during the vrhole of its subsequent course, — whereas the former, from flowing above a gravelly bed, continues clear and limpid throughout The mode of spelling the word, has undergone several changes in the pro- gress of time. In the royal charter of the burgh, and in all an- cient records, it is written. Are ; from this it came to be changed into Air, and since the end of the last century, Ayr has very ge- nerally been adopted, and is likely now to be permanent. Topography. — The town is situated in nearly the middle of a line of sea coast, about seven miles in length, forming in a gentle curve the inner basin of the beautiful bay of Ayr, and the western bound- ary of a fertile and finely cultivated valley, which is almost entire- ly of a level surface, extending inland about four or five miles from the beach. Beyond this, the ground begins to rise by a gentle slope to the height of two or three hundred feet, inclosing the vale by a finely marked amphitheatre of hills, and terminating on the AYR. A 2 AYRSHIRE. south-west, in the somewhat bolder and higher range of Brown Car-' rick, which projects into the sea in two or three precipitous rocky capes called the Heads of Ayr. In hardly any part of this ascend- ing boundary, is the swell so abrupt as to render the soil inca- pable of cultivation, and every part of it is under tillage, with the exception of what is occupied by plantations^ and some small patches on the brow of Carrick hiH, which are better suited for pasture. The valley which is thus surrounded consists of the pa- rishes of Ayr, Monkton, and St Quivox, together with a small part of the parish of Maybole, and forms a district of country, which, for richness of soil and cultivationt and finely wooded and diversified scenery, is hardly equalled by any other in the county. The river Ayr runs- through nearly the middle of this beautiful strath, and its banks for several miles are very picturesque, and finely variegated and adorned by the plantations and pleasure* grounds of Craigie and Auchencruive. Scarcely any part of it is barren, except a small extent of sand hillocks, in the neigh* bourhood of Prestwick, and it too is fast disappearing in the pro- gress of improvement. Not many years ago, the Glasgow road, for upwards of three miles in the vicinity of Ayr, ran on both sides, through accumulated wreaths of barren sand, which gave the tra- veller a very un&vourable impression of the approach to the county town. Now, however, nearly all this has vanished from the sight, and the eye is gratified with small well-cultivated inclosures, neat cottages and gardens, and handsome villas with ornamented ave- nues and shrubberies. Boundaries. — Of this valley which has now been described, the parish of Ayr forms a conspicuous portion, to the extent of more than one-third jpart of its surface. It is bounded on the north by the Water of Ayr, which divides it from St Quivox; on the east by Coylton ; on the south by Dalrymple ; on the south-west by the river Doon, and on the west by the sea. It extends betwixt 5 and 6 miles on its south-eastern boundary, about 3^ miles along the river Ayr to the north, four miles along the Doon to the south, having two miles of sea coast on the west, and about 4^ miles of extent from the town to its most distant limit It consists of the united parishes of Ayr and Alloway, which are' nearly equal in point of extent of surface, a small rivulet called Glangaw bum forming the boundary betwixt them. They were united about the end of the seventeenth century, and both are put on the same AYR. ^ 3 footiDg as to clerical superintendence. The two contain about 5000 acres. Sail and Surf act. — To a short distance along the margin of the sea, the soil is light and sandy, though almost the whole of it is under cultivation. It bears tolerably fair crops, unless in very dry seasons, and from the care that is taken in enriching it every year with manure and sea weed, it is improving progressively into an earthy vegetable consistence. Beyond this, the land for nearly two miles of breadth inland is rich and fertile, but, chiefly by means of vegetable mixtures, on a sandy surface ; it is kindly in its nature and easily worked, and capable of beariilg luxuriant crops of all sorts of grain and culinary herbs. A considerable part of it is under thriving plantations, which, by the shelter they afford, add much to its fertility and productiveness. About two miles and a-half inland from the coast, the soil becomes less free and gener- ous, in proportion as the ground begins to ascend, until it dege- nerates into a cold stiff clay, or ^i22, in the upper part of the parish, . yielding but indifferent crops, and being equally un&vourable for pasture. The whole parish, however, is in a state of tillage, with the exception of the Fort-Green belonging to the Marquis of Ailsa, a small inclosure behind Wellington Square, called the Low Green, and the race course, all of which are generally kept in pasture, though also capable of cultivation. The race-course consists of 80 or 90 acres, inclosed with a stone wall, and was fonaerly a common, free to every burgess for feeding cows. It is now held as the property of the burgh, and let by public roup annually to the highest bidder ; but when or how the burgesses came to lose their right oteomnumoffe cannot well be ascertained. It must have been within the last forty years, as it is stated to have been a common at the date of the last Statistical Account of Ayr; and its having ceased to be so, must doubtless have been with the consent, ex- pressed or implied, of those having right to it. External Appearance. — In the upper part of the parish, the land is cold and bleak, and very tame in point of scenery. A few belts of plantation would greatly improve it, both as regards shelter and ornament ; and that trees are capable of thriving, even in the most exposed situations, is evident from the fir clumps that surround the farms of Pleasantfield, Abbeyhill, Cockhill, and Bellsbank. Most of the fields in this high ground are subdivided by thorn hedges, and where thorns will grow, the more hardy forest trees would also thrive. Descending a little lower down, there is no want of wood 4 AYRSHIRE. in any direction, and the plantations that abound are finely diversi-* fied with the stately mansions and pleasure grounds of landed pro- prietors, which tend greatly to improve the scenery and aspect of the parish. The district in the immediate vicinity of Ayr is beau- tifully ornamented in this way, and the fields that are not under wood are cultivated and dressed like a garden* In the old parish fronting the town, the mansion house of CastlekiU, belonging to James Ballantyne, Esq. stands pre-eminently distinguished. It is situated on a commanding eminence, surrounded with fine plan- tations, and has a most mteresting view of Ayr, its harbour and bay, and the distant mountains of Arran. A little to the west of it is the secluded retreat of Belmont Cottage^ nearly hid among the trees in which it is embowered. A little further on, towards Allo- way, is the magnificent seat of RozeUe^ with its stately woods and en- closures, the residence of Archibald Hamilton, Esq., and Lady Jane M. Hamilton, daughter of the late and aunt of the present Earl of Eglinton, to whom the property belongs. To the south, at a short distance, lies the beautiful domain of Doonholm^ stretching along the banks of the Doon, and having its mansion-house almost entirely concealed by thick groves of thrivmg plantations. To the west, nearer the sea, is the House of Belle-isle, the residence of the late Alexander West Hamilton, Esq. of Pinmore, who al- most rebuilt it, by constructing a spacious edifice around the walls of the^old mansion, on one of the most enviable sites in the parish* It is now the property of his son Hugh, a minor, and rears its tur- reted gable, projections, and chimney tops above the trees, in the style of the old English baronial manor-houses. And in its imme- diate vicinity, is the elegant new mansion of Mount Charles^ stand- ing on a steep bank above the Doon, with a beautiful la^wn in front, and shaded all around with groves of plantations. When the parish of Alloway was united to that of Ayr, so bleak and bar- ren was its surface, that it was covered almost entirely with furze and heath, without shelter or ornament of any kind, except some natural wood along the banks of the river. It is on record, that ^< the lands were possessed by tenants, at the yearly rent of Is. dd« per acre, which they were unable to pay, and often became bank- rupts and beggars." At present, a great part of it is among the most fertile, the best cultivated, and the most finely wooded districts in the county, the land yielding a rent of upwards of L. 4 an acre^ and producing in crops a fair remunerating return to the farmer, Clmaie. — The climate at Ayr, although variable and moist, is 3 AYR. 5 Comparatively genial and salubrious, and the inhabitants in gene- ral are healthy and long-lived* The place, indeed, has been re- marked for longevity, and, as a proof that it is a consequence of the weather, it exists to a greater extent among those individuals who have remained stationary in th^e parish, several of whom are betwixt ninety and a hundred years old. The quantity of rain which falls is more than an average, but the open and porous sandy sub- soil allows the surplus moisture to filter through quickly, which of course leaves the surface at all times fit for labour and recreation in the open air, in fair weather. The footpaths and promenades near the town are generally dry and pleasant ; and exercise in walk- ing, to which the people are much addicted, combined with the bracing influence of the sea-breeze, contributes much to their ge- neral health and strength, and to promote exhilaration and equa- nimity of spirits. The temperature of the atmosphere is pretty uniform, the proximity of the sea serving to moderate its depres- sion in winter, and its elevation in summer. The thermometer is seldom below the freezing point, and never for any long continu- ance. Snow rarely lies for any length of time on the ground, and often, when it is very deep in the inland districts, it is found here hardly to cover the surface. The equality of the temperature may also depend in some degree on the flatness and dryness of the land, its high state of cultivation, the almost universal draining to which it is subjected, and the want of extensive woods to attract and retain moisture. The prevailing winds are the south and west, and those coming from the Atlantic are mild and moist, and never so injurious to health as the dry bitter eastern and northern gales. There are not any endemic diseases peculiar to the locality. The most obnoxious are catarrhal and rheumatic complaints, owing to the variableness of the climate in regard to moisture. Fever pre- vails among the destitute and poor, and sometimes to a very fetal extent. Pulmonary or consumptive disease is not generally severe, and is attended with symptoms that show it to be more owing to hereditary taint than external causes. Diseases of the glands are not unfrequent, but they are generally mild when judiciously treat- ed. Asthma is often met with, but it is rarely fatal. It is com- monly supposed that the climate here is unfavourable to it, and also to consimiptive complaints, but on inquiry, it does not appear that medical practitioners are disposed generally to favour this opi- nion. Hydrngraphy^ Springs. — Ayr ^bounds in springs every where, and 6 AYRSHIRE. they can easily be reached not far below the sur&ce of the earth. The spring water, however, is generally hard, and particularly in the town* It is very unfit for detergent and certain culinary purposes. It holds in solution carbonates of lime and magnesia, sulphates of lime and magnesia, and chlorides of lime, magnesia, and soda, but the salt most predominant is carbonate of lime. Traces of iron in combination, or as an oxide, are generally to be found, although in some wells they cannot be detected. It is obvious, that, however hard the water may be from these saline matters which it holds in solu- tion, it is not deleterious or hurtful, as, from their laxative nature^ when iron is in solution, it is rather tonic and corroborative to the system than injurious to it. A plan has be^ for some Hime in agitation for bringing an adequate supply of pure spring water in pipes from Carrick-hill, for the use of the inhabitants. This plan has now been matured, and the money necessary for the un* dertaking subscribed ; and a bill is about to be brought into Par- liament immediately to give it effect, so that the town is likely ere long to have in abundance, and in its purest state, one of the most indispensable and beneficial elements of life.* Lakes. — There are two small lochs in the country part of the parish, one towards the south, and the other on the eastern bounds ary ; but neither of them is of much extent or importance. The one to the east is the larger of the two, but it does not exceed a mile in circumference. It is called Loch Fergus, and^is mention- ed in the charters of the burgh, upwards of 600 years ago, as one of the limits of the regium donum of territorial property, made over to the burgh of Ayr. It has a small island in the middle, and abounds in pike, but in few, if any other fish, as this shark of the fresh waters is too voracious a tyrant to allow any of the small* er finny tribes to exist in the same element in its neighbourhood* There were, it is said, till lately, the remains of an old ruined castle near its margin, which probably was used as a shooting station by the Cassillis family, to whom the property belongs. The ma« terials have been used in building and repairing farm tf^a^ftn^tf and dikes in the vicinity. Herons, wild duoks, and other erratic fowls, occasionally frequent it, and its situation is sufficiently wild and lonely to encourage them, Biver Ayr* — This river takes its rise in the eastern extremity * Since the above was written, we have learned that this plan has been in the ineantime defeated, in connequenoe of some disagreement as to terms, on the part of \\i9 Marquis of Ail»i the proprietor of the aprings, AYR. I of the count;, about thirty miles from its influx into the sea, and it runs through the whole breadth of the shire, to which in this view it appropriately gives its name, dividing it into two nearly equal part& Along the upper part of its course^ the scenery is naked and uninteresting, as it flows through a moorland mountainous country, covered with extensive sheep-walks, almost entirely bare of wood, and with hardly any banks above the heaths and meadows that surround it After it reaches the vills^ of Sorn, however, the scenery becomes exceedingly grand and picturesque, and con- tinues so all the way to its mouth. . In fact, for nearly twenty miles^ few streams can excel it for richness and variety of landscape. It exhibits the sublime and beautiful in nature's works, in endless succession, and in every possible variety of combination, while at the same time it receives ample assistance from the ornaments of art, in the numerous magnificent mansions and pleasure grounds which adorn its borders, seeking from it in return, variety, beauty, and fertility. It is subject at times to sudden and impetuous floods, during which it carries down great quantities of alluvial mat- ter, which it deposits at its mouth, thereby forming a bar, which is a great obstruction to the entrance and egress of vessels, and a formidable drawback to the harbour of Ayr^ as an emporium of trade. At a short distance above the harbour are <^ the Tnoa Brig^y^ rendered £unous by the humorous poem of Burns, which bears that title. The new bridge is a handsome structure, and well placed, and convenient enough for the use of the public, though rather too narrow. The other is entirely shut up, except to foot- passengers. JBtoer Docn. — This classic stream, which forms the south-western boundary of the parish, rises out of a lake of the same name, about eighteen miles inland to the south-east of Ayr, bounded by high mountains, and situated on the confines betwixt Ayrshire and the stewartry of Kirkcudbright' The lake from which it claims its paternity is exceedingly picturesque, from the elevated mountain ridges with which it is surrounded, and were these covered with wood, instead of being naked moorland pasture, they might vie with the lake scenery of Cumberland. In issuing from this interesting sheet of water, the river formerly ran over the top of a narrow - edging of rock, about 15 or 20 feet above the bed of the stream below. But as the lake was found to be nearly of the same depth on the other side, two mines have been cut through the rock through which the water has been brought, and two sluices pla- 8 AYB8HIRE:. .ced at their mouths, which maintain the complete command of the current This work was effected with the view of recovering a considerable extent of ground around the lake, by diminishing the depth and extent of its water. The effect contemplated has no doubt been accomplished, in one view, by the diminution of the surface of water to the extent of nearly one-half, but little advan- tage has been gained, in consequence of the land recovered being entirely useless by its channelly surface, while the lake has been greatly injured in point of beauty and extent It is still, however, much frequented in fishing excursions* The Doon on its egress, as above described, runs for nearly a mile through a rocky precipi- tous chasm, overhung with trees and brushwood, along the bottom of which a romantic sequestered walk has been cut for foot-pas- sengers, where the rocks on both sides are so perpendicular and rugged to a great height, as almost to exclude the light of the sun, and to form a scene exceedingly sublime and striking. The scenery on its banks below Dalmellington is very tame, as the river runs for several miles through a flat b(^ and meadow, with hardly any declination of surface, and nothing to give interest or variety to its banks. When it reaches Skeldon, however, it as- sumes a very picturesque appearance, its banks rising in promi- nency, and being well covered with wood ; and these features it pre- serves till it mingles its waters with the sea, two miles to the west of Ayr. The Sea-Beach — Change in the Course of the Doon — The coast to the same extent is much frequented by the inhabitants of the town for air and exercise, and the walk along the sands is always in- teresting, on account of the healthful breeze from the waters, and the never-failing attractiveness of a sea view. The extent of coast, however, within the parish, must have been more confined at one time than it is at present, as the Doon seems to have joined the sea much nearer the town than it does by its present course. This suggests a topic of considerable interest and curiosity ; but we have litUe to aid us, not even tradition, in our inquiries respecting it There seems to be little reason to doubt, that formerly the river had a different bed at the lower extremity of the parish from what it now ret^ns, and the alteration appears to have taken place im- mediately below the lower bridge. There are obvious indications that, at or under this point, it ran along nearly the line of the present road by the south of Gowkscraft nursery , and the eastern boundary of the farm of Cunning Park, — that it diverged to the west of Sea- AYR. 9 field House and the fields of Blackburn, — and that it joined the sea at, or not far from, the present mouth of the Water of Ayr. It is not easy to determine when or how the change into its pre- sent channel took place ; whether it was by the unaided workings of nature, or by artificial means, for the sake of the ground that would be recovered by a less circuitous course. The latter con- sideration was likely to present a motive su£Bciently adequate for the undertaking, since, by means of the change, a valuable extent of ground has been gained from the sea, which, quoad civiliaj still is attached to Maybole parish, affording an indubitable evi- dence that it once belonged to it, without the river intervening as at present to separate them. The receding of the sea, no doubt, may also have aided in effecting the change. There are indica- tions which can easily be traced of the former bed of the river, all the way from the new bridge near Belle-isle gate house to the head of the Low Green, a line of low marshy ground running along the whole way, except where it has lately been filled up and cul- tivated on the Blackburn property. The only difficulty that oc- curs is to account for the raised up bank at and below the Low Bridge of Doon, which is several feet above the level of the stream. If the course was changed, however, by artificial means, the same means would be used to keep it from getting into its former chan- nel, by the fence of an elevated forced embankment, which the rising ground here above the river evidently is, from the declivity that takes place on the Ayr road immediately after passing the bridge. But we can produce something more than mere conjec- ture on this subject A few years ago a very handsome bell of considerable dimensions, with the words Gloria Soli Doe (for Deo) marked upon it in large letters, was found in the marshy grounds behind Blackburn House, which we have supposed to have been the bed of the river, together with some spars of a vessel that seems to have been stranded or sunk near its mouth. . From this it would appear to have been navigable like the Ayr for some short distance above its confluence with the sea* Blackburn itself is sy- nonymous with the Doon river* The Bay of Ayr is by &r the finest feature of the scenery con- nected with the town and parish, and in that view merits a parti- cular description. It is formed by the junction of the Frith of Clyde, with the waters of the Atlantic. On all sides it appears bounded by prominent outlines of land scenery, except towards the west, whence in a clear day the distant coast of Ireland is dim- 10 AYBSHrBE^ ly seen in the horizon peering above the wide expanse of ocean which surrounds it Nearer in the same direction, the view is also relieved by the very prominent Craig ofAiUa^ by &r the most re- markable object on the coast of Ayrshire. It rises to the height of about a thousand feet above the level of the sea, and is two miles in circumference at its base. To a great distance, both at sea and on land, it is seen towering its majestic conical peak in so- litary grandeur, being nearly perpendicular on all sides, and con- sisting of a stupendous bare rock of the tr^ formation, on which there is hardly any vegetation, and no signs of life, with the ex- ception of numerous flocks of gannets or solan geese, and other sea fowls. The beholder is struck with awe at its prominent and precipitous appearance, and wonders how such an object could have been produced in so solitary a situation, amid the deep wa- ters of the open sea, without anything to correspond with it in any direction. It generally appears to the eye from afiur shrouded in light blue mist, unless when it assumes a more sombre veil amid fdgs, and rain, and tempest. On one side, the bay is bounded by the coast of Ayrshire, com- mencing at the promontory of Carrick hill, and inclining inwards in a concave form, like a bow upon the stretch. At its termination to* wards the north, are seen the islands of Cumbraes and the Bute hills, which appear almost contiguous, the inlet of Clyde being hardly perceptible from a dbtance, and behind these are the pro- minent mountains of Argyleshire. There is also to be seen in the distance towards the north the majestic summit of Benlomond, re- calling to mind the beautifiil lake at its base ; and the country of the Macgregor, abounding in savage grandeur,— scenes rendered deeply interesting by the magic pen of Sir Walter Scott But itK most marked boundary by far is the island of Arran, with its lofty mountains stretching along nearly the whole of its coast to the north and west, with the projection from behind of the Mull of Cantyre. These nK)untains communicate to it its principal in- terest and grandeur, and, according to the state of the weather, it derives from them an endless succession of noble appearances, with which the view of the beholder is constantly relieved and capti- vated. Sometimes they are bright with sunshine and gladsome se- renity, at others dark and frowning amid clouds and storms. In summer, they are seen with hazy shadows flitting across their ridges, or are beat upon with an incessant glare of solar heat and radiance ; while in winter thev seem grand and imposing in the ex* . AYR. 11 treme, with a thick covering of snow^ glittering in dazzling white- neas from afiir, and with dark or fleecy clouds passing in endless succession over their lofty summits. But the sublimest and most pleasing aspect which they assume is when the sun has ^^ just sunk beneath the western wave" in a calm clear evening, throwing his golden beams over their majestic ridges, so finely and distinctly marked in the serene azure sky, while all other objects underneath have already been thrown into the soft and dusky shade of twi- light. Where Arran terminates, the projecting point of Cantyre pro- longs the boundary of the bay considerably further to Uie west, so that with this apparent contiguity of land all around, except at one point, and that point only seen in one line of view, it looks like .a lake of very lai^e dimensions, diversified everywhere along its borders with the most beautiful and striking features. With the exception of the Bay of Naples, there is hardly any thing per- haps of the kind that can rival it in extent, taken in conjunction with its beauty, grandeur, and attractiveness. The Bay of Dub- lin is both inferior in point of size, and tamer in prominent and magnificent outline. The Wicklow mountains no doubt have a wild grandeur about them, but they form not the fine marginal variety that the mountains of Arran and Argyleshire, and the other scenery around, give to the Bay of Ayr, which is an object of admiration to all strangers, and of delight to all who live up- on its borders. Along the far projecting coast of Cunningham, to the north-east, may be seen in a clear day, glittering in the sunshine, the thriving towns of Ardrossan, Stevenston, Saltcoats, Kilwinning, and Irvine, which give interest and variety to the scene, and convey the idea of a district teeming with anim^tioi^ wealth, and industry. The town of Ayr stands in its south cor- ner, and derives from it principally its healthiness, as well as its enviableness of situation. Its waters present a never-ending va- riety to the view, and every new aspect which they assume, exhi- bits different phases of interest, to all who admire the grand and beautiful in natural scenery. Gfdcffy* — The parish of Ayr, having something of a peninsu- lar form, by the boundaries of the Ayr and Doon and the sea, on three of its sides, — ^is greatly modified by this position in its geo- logical character. Though undulating in its surface, it may ge*« nerally be described as sloping gradually towards the rivers on the north and south, and the sea on the west, the inland part ris-* 12 AYRSHIRE. ■ iDg into elevations of considerable height The portion lying ad- jacent to the coast, and extending from the one stream to the other, is nearly one continued level. This last section of the pa- rish is composed of sand and gravel, when we descend to any depth below the immediate surface, which, through the influence of cultivation, has, in the course of time, been changed from it9 natural state. Along the line where this flat surface begins to rise into elevated acclivities, a very considerable depth of moss earth is very generally found, and in some places, where excava- tions have been made, singular alternations of this moss earth with fine sand have been disclosed. These substances are in this case found in regular strata, evidently formed by water. The'sur&ce on the elevated portions of the parish, on the other hand, is com- posed chiefly of clay mixed with water-rounded stones of the trap or whinstone species. In general, therefore, the parish may be described as presenting a superficial district of no definite geo- logical character, the external surface being covered with a dilu- vium, or broken mass of sand, gravel, and clay, intermixed with the water-worn detached whinstones already mentioned. This covering of disintegrated materials hides completely the rocks on which it lies ; and hence it is only by analogy — ^by com- paring certain portions with the neighbouring strata, which are known, that its structure can be ascertained. When the rocks in their original bed are seen, either along the course of the rivers, or in opening quarries, or digging for coal, they are found to belong principally to the trap or whinstone species, like the boulders on the surface. Along the course of the Ayr, indeed, a coarse red-coloured sandstone appears, but in other parts the trap prevails. The uppermost geological character of the whole parish thus evidently belongs to the coal formation. This useful mineral, however, which forms the great source of subterranean wealth in the neighbouring districts, has tended but little to enrich the pro- prietors in this parish. Here coal has been worked only for a few hundred yards within its northern boundary. Indeed it may be said that, except in its very extremity, at the embouchure of the river Ayr, no minings for coal have succeeded. Even here the workings are supposed to be exhausted, and after having been tra- ced for a short distance southward, the veins have ended or dis- appeared, and the works have been discontinued. The seam is about three feet eight inches in thickness, and the quality is of the kind called splint coal, the same bed apparently that has been for AYR, 13 many years, and still is, worked to a great extent in the parishes of Newton and St Quivoz, on the opposite side of thd river. From this position of the coal-field, we are enabled to ascertain the direction of the strata, or slope of lower geological formation of the parish. These strata rise by a gradual ascent towards the southern boundary, which is formed by the Doon, immediately be- yond which begins the range of Carrick hill. But in the stratifi- cation, some remarkable phenomena have been discovered in searching for or working coal. It has been already noticed, that trap or whinstone forms the main body of the rock throughout the parish, but it is here more diversified than usually occurs in coal districts. In the coal formation, dikes^ or vertical detached strata are common, and, as is well known, present the most for- midable and annoying obstruction to the operations of the miner. In Ayr parish, basalt trap occurs not only in these perpendicular walls, cutUng through or deranging the coal seams, but also sends out protrusions and ramifications on all side^, and at various angles of inclination. These branches or streams, for the -whole appears as if it had been once fluid, have penetrated between the other solid strata, destroying thus the seams of coal. This is doubtless the cause why these seams, which in the neighbouring parishes to the north of the Ayr are wrought to so much advantage, are un- productive here. One seam of coal, which would otherwise be valuable, is known to be overlaid by one of these horizontal beds of trap, to the thickness of twenty -four feet. Mineralogy* — The mineralogy in this parish is not of much im- portance. There are no metals to be found, nor metalliferous ores, which deserve particular notice. Along the shore, some fine specimens of agate are occasionally met with ; and in the bed of the Ayr is procured the peculiar species of clay-stone, with mi- nute grains of dark felspar and mica, so well known over the country by the name of Water of Ayr stone^ and used so general- ly as a whetstone for fine-edged tools, and for polishing marble and metals. The organic remains which have been discovered occur chiefly in the dark shale which accompanies the freestone and coal formation. These consist of beautiful impressions of ferns, and trunks, and branches of trees, imbedded in the masses of the stra- ta. A freestone quarry was formerly worked near the town, but it is now abandoned, and supplies of stone for building have to be brought from the neighbouring parishes. The stone, besides, was so far under the surface, that the working was expensive. 14 AYRSHIRE. 2oo/fl^.*— ^This pariflh is not remarkable for any rare aninials. Foxes are found in some of the coTerts, and are numerous in several of the neighbouring parishes. They are rather encouraged than otherwise by the gentlemen sportsmen of the country, — two packs of fox-hounds being stationed in this vicinity during a considerable part of the year. Otters are occasionally seen in the Doon and Ayr, or the lakes and streams connected with these rivers, and the common seal frequents the seaF-coast, though neither are sought after either for sport or utility. Hares, rabbits, pheasants, and partridges, although not so numerous as formerly, are still com- mon, and we have been informed that quails at one time were abundant Now, however, if not altogether extinct, they are very rarely to be met with. Woodcocks, snipes, land and water-rails, and green and golden plover, are also common in their seasons, together with several varieties of sandpipers along the beach. The soli- tary bittern has sometimes been found, and his congener the heron may be often seen in the small brooks, with his head overtopping the rushes like a sentinel watching for his prey. The kingsfisher and water-ouzel are also found on the streams, and several of the smaller description of hawks and owls, including the goatsucker and fern-owl. Fieldfares and snowflakes are to be met with during seve- ral of the winter months. The starling is a rare bird, but'not alto- gether unknown here. The same variety of birds, both mdigenous and migratory, which is common to the country, is as abund- ant in this vicinity as elsewhere. In severe weather, wild swan, geese, ducks, and also barnacle, are sometimes seen on the coast, and widgeon and teal of several varieties^ are then also very com- mon. Sea-gulls, divers, and, in short, sea-fowl of every kind are numerous on our shores, and, during the spring months, the gan- net or solan-goose, from the rocky summit of Ailsa, its usual haunt and breeding-place, is not unfrequently seen, sweeping along the coast, descending occasionally like an arrow on its prey. The Doon and the Ayr have been long celebrated for their sal- mon-fishings. The former is probably one of the earliest rivers in this respect in Scotland. It is generally believed that at no time is it destitute of salmon in a clean marketable condition. Before the passing of the late act, extending the close time to the Jst of Feb- ruary, they were commonly taken as early as Christmas, and dur- * Though several of the animals under this bead be neither rare nor peculiar to the locality, yet diey may be noticed here, as this may perhaps be the only parish on the western eoaat, where they will be found in combination. 4 AYR. 15 ing the month of January, a great number of excellent fish were annually caught. It is somewhat singular, that while the Doon is so early, the Ayr, situated within so short a distance from it, like the other rivers in Ayrshire, is unusually late, very few fish being caught there before the beginning of June. Atone time, this fish was so abundant that it not only formed a chief part of the food of the inhabitants, but was exported in large quantities, from Ayr to France, in exchange for wine and other produce of that country. Now, however, the number taken is comparatively small, particu- larly in the river Ayr, where the fishing b nearly destroyed. The cause of the decrease of the salmon may, in a great degree, be at- tributed to the erection of a high dam-dike in the Ayr, near its mouth, over which the fish have great difficulty in ascending. A most objectionable dike also exists in the Doon, at Alloway mill, attend- ed with similar results, though not to so great an extent. The consequence of these impediments is, that the fish are at all times obstructed in their free passage up the streams to spawn, and dur- ing the fishing-season, detained and taken by the fishermen. The other causes are, the extensive liming of the lands, steeping of lint, the introduction of manufactures on the banks, the destruction of the salmon by poachers when in the a'ct of spawning, and the va- rious stake-nets and other devices, now resorted to for theircapture, In the Doon, however, and along the coast in the vicinity of its mouth, numbers continue to be taken, — more than enough to sup- ply Ayr market ; and the surplus finds a ready sale in larger towns at a distance. Although the inclination of the salmon seems to impel them to ascend the streams at all periods of the summer, when there is sufficient water, yet the months in which they chiefly resort thither are August, September, and October. According as they are in an advanced or a late stage of breeding, they soon afterwards de- posit their spawn, and return to the sea during the months of January, February, March, and April. But in the Doon, salmon on the eve of spawning have been found not only early in the autumn, but as late as March and April, which may account for that river's bemg so early in producing clean fish, compared with other streams. Besides the common river trout during the summer months, more particularly in the Doon, excellent sea trout are taken in considerable quantities. The lamprey is occasionally found in both rivers, but never used as an article of food ; and that mysterious little fish, the par, is likewise common to both. Much discussion^ 16 AYRSHIRE. it is well known, has arisen as to whether the par be the young of the salmon; or a distinct species by itself. Botany f — Forest Trees, — In the immediate vicinity of the sea, it is difficult, or perhaps in some cases impossible, to get forest trees tp thrive, as the sea air has a blasting influence on most of them. There are some, however, which it does not much affect, such as wil- lows and poplars, and both of these sometimes grow to a great size^ when all other kinds become dwarfish and stunted. Those, there- fore, who prefer fixing their residence near the beach, and at the same time court the ornament and shelter of plantations, can only hope to have their wishes gratified in this respect, by planting closely at first, and thinning out afterwards, as the trees advance in size ; and more particularly by forming an edging of the hardy plants above-mentioned, for protection on the sides most exposed to the obnoxious sea-breezes. By following this mode, a great many clumps of wooded enclosures have been reared, beside mansions and villas that fringe the coast to the west of the town, which tend much to adorn its environs, and contribute both to the shelter and fertility of the grounds oVer which they are in- terspersed. A little more inland, trees are found to thrive with great luxuriance, as the plantations which surround Belle-isle, Ro- zelle, and Mount Charles will bear ample testimony. In these, are to be seen as tall and handsomely formed beeches as can be met with anywhere else perhaps in the county. Though a con- siderable part of the parish is well hooded, yet there are no woods in it of any great extent They consist of small belts or clumps- intersecting or inclosing cultivated fields, and surrounding gardens and pleasure grounds in the vicinity of gentlemen's seats. None of the landed proprietors think of cultivating timber for profit or sale, but only for shelter and ornament, and hence it would not be easy to ascertain what extent of the surface of the parish alto- gether is under wood. The ground which it occupies, however^ must be considerable. Shrubs and Plants* — With respect to shrubs there are some pecu- liarly fine and thriving ones, resembling small bushy trees, to be seen in the domains we have already mentioned, and also about Doon- holm, Castlehill, and Burns's monument At the last named place, there is no person who has a taste for horticulture but must be gra- tified with the richness and luxuriance of the collection, and the taste with which they are dressed and set out We are not aware of any plants that are peculiar to the parish, with theexception of the follow-. AYR. 17 ing one, which has been pointed out to us by an intelligent practical gardener in this neighbourhood, who has paid great attention to the study of botany. We shall give the account of it in his own words : ** A few years ago there was found on the farm of Cockhill, about three miles south-east from Ayr, a very fine species of Ononis. In its general appearance it approaches near to spinosa. The root is stationary, which distinguishes it from the (hwnis arvensis. The stems rise about two feet high, are very spiny, and covered in sum- mer with a profusion of red-coloured blossoms of a very handsome appearance. This plant has been sent to various quarters of Britain, and is known in gardens under the name of Ononis spinosissima. It has not been found anywhereelse, nor has it as yet been described in any botanical work." Another botanical friend has informed us, that he once found a very fine specimen of the (Enothera bien^nis^ in a state of nature, among some solitary sand-hills, far from any garden whence its seeds could have escaped. He supposes the seed to have been blown to that spot, from some timber ships from America, as it is un- certain whether it has ever been found before in Scotland, in a wild state. What will be reckoned interesting to botanists in regard to the temperature of this place, is the fact, that in the garden of Mount Charles, the Acacia dealbata^ and the Benthamiafragifera^ the for- mer on a wall, the latter in a border, have stood the last winter without any covering, and without having received the smallest in- jury. Though there are no plants that are peculiar to the parish, with the exception above described, yet there are some that are rarely found anywhere else. For instance, the Brassica Monensis, or Isle of Man cabbage, grows in great abundance along the sea coast in the vicinity of the town, and though it is to be found in Bute and Arran, yet it is seldom or never met with on the main- land. The Convolvulus soldaneUa has been picked up once or twice on the sands, but it grows with great luxuriance on the shores of a neighbouring parish. It has been remarked, that plants ac- quire a greater brilliancy of colouring here than in most other places of Scotland, probably owing to the arid nature of the soil ; certainly very handsome specimens may be obtained. The most numerous classes are the Vida^ Trifolia and Gramina^ and it might perhaps be of advantage to the stock-farmer to be at pains to im- prove the two former in his pastures and sheep walks. From the proximity to the sea shore, there are some plants that are indigenous in this parish, and by no means common in many parts of Scotland. Among others we may mention the following : AYB. B 18 AYR8H1RE Carez depressa Centunculus minimiu Scirpus maritima Eryngium maritimum Hippuris vulgaris Draba verna Sagiua maritima Lamium album Arenaria serpyllifolia Papaver dubium trine rvis MaWa sylvestris Anagallis tenella rrifolium striatum Scandix antbriscus Aira canescens CoDTolvulus arvensifl Hypericum Elod^tu II. — Civil History. Ayr Town, — The town of Ayr is seen to great advantage from any part of the rising grounds, from which the traveller must ap- proach it on almost every road that communicates with the inte- rior. It stands on a broad level plain, and can be seen at the dis- tance of several miles in all directions. But by far the most fa- vourable view of it is that from the south in the direction of Car- rick Hill, which commands one of the finest prospects to be met with anywhere, and the town forms none of the least attractive points in the landscape. Here it seems a very striking object, — the handsome new buildings on the side of Wellington Square and Bams* Street, first appearing to the eye, shaded by the plantations that adorn the numerous villas that intervene in the suburbs. The old part of Ayr is almost hid in the back ground, unless in so far as the irregular tops of the chimneys and gable ends peer above, or are seen through some open space, giving it a turreted sort of aspect, and conveying an impression of greater extent than in rea- lity belongs to it. The county buildings, the lofty tapering new spire, and the imposing Gothic-like erection of Wallace Tower, have tended much to beautify and adorn the town, and to add to the effect of its appearance, when seen from a distance. When Ayr is spoken of generally, the name is made to comprehend the -congregated streets and buildings on both sides of the river, in- cluding a population of betwixt 16,000 and 17,000 inhabitants. This make^ it appear a place of more importance than it is, and - equal in point of numerical strength to our third rate towns in Scotland. It has been united already in one way to this extent, by the parliamentary boundary laid down by the Reform Act, and it is in contemplation to incorporate Ayr, Newton, and Wallace- town under one civil jurisdiction, combining all their rights and privileges under one common interest This plan seems to be op- posed at present, on separate grounds, by the magistrates both of Ayr and, Newton ; but the obstacles and objections to the junction . may not perhaps be found insuperable by the national Legislature. * * Since the abo\e was w/itten, we understand that in a new Scotch municipal bUl, AYR. 19 Charter and Antiquity^ — Ayr is one of the most ancient of our Scotch burghs, — a synod and presbytery seat, — a circuit station of the Justiciary Court, — the metropolis of the county which bears its name, — and the returning burgh of the set with which it is united in sending a Memlier to Parliament, viz. Irvine, Campbelton, In- verary, and Oban. It obtained its charter of royalty from King William, surnamed the Lion, in the year 1202. The charter itself does not bear date of the vear in which it was conferred, but it has for witness -to it the name of Florence, Archbishop of Glasgow, thus designed, electa cancillario meo Glasguensu Now it appears from other records, that he was advanced to this high office during the year above-mentioned, and as it could not thus have been earlier, we cannot err much in fixing this as the date of it. This charter conferred on the burgh very important privileges, and very extensive property, extending its jurisdiction over the whole parish, and making over to it the whole of its lands, in perpetual tenure, for payment of a small feu-duty. This has been deemed a very magnificent grant, and so it was, as compared with grants conveyed in charters to other royal burghs. But it will not be apt to appear so very liberal, when it is considered that the whole parish, at that time, was one entire forest, and of very little valiie. The Kings of Scotland, however, had shown a more than usual munificence to Ayr on different occasions, as we find Alexander the Second con- firming his father's grant, and afterwards bestowing in addition the whole of the lands of Alloway, and extending the jurisdiction over the two parishes. Property. — It would appear that a subsequent charter was given to the town by King Robert Bruce, dated at Dunfermline, in which^ besides confirming the grants and privileges conferred by his pre* decessors, he erects the parish of Alloway into a barony, under the lordship of the magistrates. That all this extensive territory was covered with forest trees, and consequently of little value, is evi- dent from the privilege having been conferred on the burgesses of Ayr, of acquiring such portions of the land as they might clear of wood, on paying twelve pennies yearly for every six acres so cleared. In the charter of Alexander in 1236, the burgesses are prohibited from usingthe wood of the lands of Alloway, but for useful purposes, and for their own accommodation. ^* Non ardebunt, nee dabunt, nee vendent, nee aliquo mode distruent, sed solum mode capient about to be brought forward, Ayr is to remain as it is, with the addition of another bailie, though the success of the measure we think questionable. 20 AYRSHIRE. quod necessarium est ad propria sedificia sua de Are, etad proprias naves suas de Are faciendas." Many roots and pieces of oak and other timber are at this day found in bogs, and various other places in the parish, in tolerable preservation. The lands thus bestowed have long since been disposed of, and are in the possession of va* rious proprietors, but the superiority remains with the magistrates, and their jurisdiction still extends over the whole of the united parish. They were no doubt sold at what was considered a fair price at the time, but what we would reckon trifling compared with the present value of landed property. Had they been retained, they might have now yielded to the town a rental of betwixt L. 8000 and L. 10,000 a year, which would have rendered it one of the richest burghs in Scotland. It is perhaps as well as it is. It is better for a public body to depend on the resources of enterprise and exertion, than on large patrimonial possessions. The annual income of the town amounts to. upwards of L. 2000, arising from land, houses, feus, customs, &c., and the expenditure to within a little of that sum, paid in salaries, interest on borrowed money, public burdens, and other disbursements.* The public debt is little short of L. 20,000, the greater part of which has been laid out in the erection of the large handsome range of new buildings at the cross, together with the spire and Wallace Tower. In 1792, the town owed no debt, but then its income amounted only to L. 740 yearly. History.' — Ayr appears to have been a town of some importance, long before the period to which authentic Scotch history extend.*^ It is not mentioned in any of the Roman authors that we know of, but it is likely to have been well known to the Romans during their occupation of Scotland, as one branch t)f their great military road from Galloway into this district has been traced by some ob- vious remains, as we shall afterwards see, to within a short distance of where the town now stands, where it probably terminated as a military station or sea-port Various relics have been discovered, such as urns and culinary utensils, at a considerable depth from the sur&ce, which seem to bear marks of Roman origin. The place is repeatedly mentioned in the history of Scotland. Indeed, from its commanding position, as connected with the bay, and be- ing a point of easy communication with a widely extended district, it must always have been a place of considerable note. A castle * In 1835. the ordinary income was L. 2207, ds. 10d.,and the ordinary ezpendU ture was I^. 1881 , 8s. lOd , leaving a balance in favour of the town, of L. 926, 2s., but the extraordinary expenditure is generally equal to the surplus revenue. AYR. 21 was built near the mouth of the river by William the Lion, be- fore he granted his charter, erecting it into a burgh. This is distinctly stated in the charter itself, novo meo castello de Are. While the English forces occupied Ayr during the usurpation of Scotland by Edward I., they no doubt held possession of this castle also ; but probably, from its not being sufficient to contain them, they appear to have erected a temporary barrack or encamp- ment at the south-east side of the town, called the Bams of Ayr, to which Sir William Wallace set fire, he and his followers having retired to a neighbouring hill, since called Bum or Bamweil^ to sur- vey the conflagration they had occasioned. This remains a tradi- tion to the present day. This castle is mentioned in Scotch his- tory, as having been burned by King Robert Bruce in 1298, to prevent its falling again into the possession of an English army who were marching westward to attack him, whom he did not find himself strong enough to encounter. It seems to have been in con- sequence of this demolition, when he assembled his barons, and dignified clergy at Ayr sometime after, to settle the order of suc- cession to the throne, that the meeting was held in the church of St Johii. It was at this meeting, it is supposed, that the charter of constitution was granted to the barony of Newion-upon-Ayr, a band of the inhabitants of that place having fought under his banner, at the celebrated battle of Bannockburn. No traces now remain of the, castle of Ayr : — but it probably «tood at the east corner or bastion of Cromwell's Fort, not jfar from the academy. There are various other notices of Ayr to be met with in the annals of Scotland, but none of much historical importance, or that properly falls within the province of this account We shall therefore proceed to exhibit a view of its present state with respect to improvements and public buildings. Improvements. — Few places have undergone a greater change for the better than this town has done, within the last twenty years. During that time, it has made greater advances in architectural and other improvements, than it had done perhaps during a century before. As a proof of this, we shall extract the following account of the state in which the town was found by the writer of it, at the time the work was published in which it is contained ; and from personal recollections we do not think it exggerated. We quote from the Edinburgh Encyclopaedia. ^* The streets are ill lighted, wretchedly paved, and very indifferently cleaned. Side pave- ments of flag-stones for foot-passengers might be mentioned among I I 22 AYRSHIRE. the desiderata that might easily be supplied. The prison, like the old tolbooth of Edinburgh, interlines and almost blocks op one of the principal streets. Security is the only consideration, which seems to have gained the attention of those who planned this public nuisance, which is not so much the terror of evil doers, as the horror of those who do well." Now we have only to con- trast with this short but very graphic description, the condition in which the town now appears to strangers, in order to be impress- ed with the great improvement that has since been effected. The nuisance complained of — the old gaol — has been entirely removed ; by which means, a fine spacious street has been laid open from Wel- lington Square to the new bridge, improving progressively, by new edifices on both sides, of which the new spire with the spacious and elegant buildings attached to it, and the Ayrshire Bank, may be mentioned as specimens. The principal streets are well light- ed with gas, causewayed, and kept tolerably clean, and side pave- ments are generally formed from one end of the town to the other. The square already named on the west endy whether we consider the neatness of the houses, or the fineness of the situation, with its beautiful sea view, can hardly be surpassed in any other pro- vincial town in Scotland. County Buildings, — These are situated on the north-west side of this square, and were erected nearly twenty years ago, from a design by Mr Wallace, architect. They are formed after the model of an ancient temple dedicated to Isis at Rome, and cost the county an expense of upwards of L. 30,000, which was raised by an assessment under the authority of an Act of Parliament. The look of the structure, in front, is rather heavy from its mas- siveness, and not very imposing. It is certainly not nearly so orna- mental to the town, as a building costing so large a sum might have been made to appear. It occupies a very advantageous situation* There are only two stories, with an entrance in front, ornament- ed with large circular columns, formed out of immense blocks of stone brought from Arran, having capitals, architrave and en- tablature corresponding — covering a spacious portico, with a broad flight of steps leading to it from the area in front. From this, there is an entrance into a very handsome lobby, lighted from the top by a magnificent dome, rising to a considerable height above the whole building, and forming the most ornamental part of its ex- terior. The interior workmanship also, from the bottom to the top of the dome, is rich in architectural decorations to a very AYR. 23 great degree, and has been executed with, great skill, and at a very considerable expense. From the centre of the lobby, there rises a circular double staircase, of broad and easy ascent, leading to the apartments above. The lower part of the buildings is laid out in offices for gentlemen officially belonging to the law courts of the county and burgh, on each side of a long passage running lengthways from one end to the other. It is rather ill lighted, and even the offices, particularly to the back, though convenient enough otherwise, are liable to the same objec- tion. The upper storey consists chiefly of two large halls with ante* rooms for the judges and gentlemen of the court, and retiring room& for the jury and the witnesses. One of the halls forms the Justi-^ ciary Court Room, and can hold upwards of 600 people. Above the Judges' bench, the royal arms of Britain are finely executed in stain* ed glass, which have afine effect. At theeast end is the County Hall^ which was intended originally for a Jury Court Room ; but as these two courts never have occasion to hold their sittings at the same time, it has not been fitted up for this purpose. It is a large and splendid apartment, very richly finished, but, unless for being occa- sionally converted into a banqueting or ball room, it is nearly su- perfluous to the county for any public use. It contains a portrait of the late Lord Eglinton, in the uniform of the Royal Highland Re-^ giment, of which he was Colonel, representing the regiment as pur^ suing a tribe of Indian savages in the woods of America, during the American war. It contains, besides, another portrait of Mr Ha- milton of Sundrum, late Convener of Ayrshire. Both of these were voted as a tribute of respect by the county, after their death ; -—and, though the costume and bearing in which they are painted are not appropriate, this was owing to the artist having nothing to copy from, except originals of old date. Town*B New Buildinffs, — These are very handsome and com-* modious, and reflect great honour on Mr Hamilton of Edin-^ burgh, the architect. The site on which they are built, every- body allows, is unfavourable for showing them to great advantage. They stand on rather a low situation, and close to the street, and of course are not capable of being viewed as a uniform whole, from any commanding position at a proper distance. Several much, more imposing situations might have been selected, but there were drawbacks in the way, it seems, in point of expense, and of private property interfering, and from other considerations, which prevented the authorities from fixing on more eligible ground. The buildings 24 AYRSHIRE. contain an elegant spacious news-room, and Tarious other apart-' ments for town's meetings, &c. all of which are constructed in such a manner, as to be capable of being thrown into one suit of rooms for public dinners, balls, and assemblies, on great occasions. The spire is 226 feet in height, said to be about tlie highest in Scot* land, and has a bell weighing 22 cwt, of a rich deep-toned sound, which can be heard at a great distance in calm weather. 771^ ^ire is reckoned very handsome, and in good taste as to archi- tectural decorations and proportions. Its appearance has a fine effect, and is a great ornament to the town. During the winter of 1835, it was struck by lightning, more than midway from the ground, in a frightful thunder storm, which happened in the dead of night, occasioning great alarm to the inhabitants. The bolt wrenched in an instant two of the large massy stones from their places, on one side of the building, driving one of them to a con- siderable distance, without, however, doing any material injury. The damage was repaired last summer, at a considerable expense, incurred chiefly by the difficult and complex construction of scaf- folding for the purpose. There is another ornament of a similar kind, also of late erec- tion, and from a design by the same architect. This is called JVaUace Tawer^ for what reason does not appear. It has been built near the middle of the east side of the High Street, on the site of an old building of the same name, of many years standing, which was pulled down to make room for it It appears to give great sa- tisfaction to the inhabitants of the east end of the town, as by its means they enjoy the benefit of a town's clock, and a bell for an- nouncing public worship. The tower is a handsome building, and is also very ornamental to Ayr, particularly as seen from a distance, its height being about 1 15 feet The architect, in his design, ap- pears to have wished to erect something after the fashion of the Gothic-like structures of the days of Wallace. There is a statue of Wallace in front of the tower, in a niche towards the main street; but the artist, Thom, does not appear to have been very happy in his conception of the hero, either in point of costume or expres- sion of character. So far, however, as mere workmanship is con- cerned, it shows every indication of being well executed. Old and New Church. — The old church was erected about the middle of the seventeenth century, during the protectorate of Cromwell, to supply the place of the ancient church of St John, which he had appropriated to another purpose, in the new fort he AYR. 26 had boilt at Ayr. It is generally understood that he furnished the money by which the present edifice was erected^ or at least ad* vanced a sum for that purpose ; and this is quite consistent with his rigid profession of religion, and still more with his views of po* licy in conciliating the Presbyterians. Nothing of this kind, how- ever, appears in the town's recordk^ The sum said to have been received, betwixt L. 600 and L. 700, was of considerable magni- tude in these times, though perhaps not sufficient to cover the ex- pense of building the old church. Though it has nothing about it, to vie with the grand Gothic religious edifices of preceding ages, yet it is a fine old venerable structure, placed in a fine open retired situation behind the main street, surrounded with the town's burying-ground The walls are as substantial at this day, as when it was first built, and are likely to survive many later and more pretending edifices. It is constructed in the form of a cross, not unlike the old church of St John, the aisle to the north-west being a projection from the main body, in the middle of the east wall of which the pulpit stands, fronting the projecting wing. Though the walls and roof are perfectly sound and strong, yet, through the waste of time, the public have become alive to a variety of emendations, which it requires, and have lately employ- ed a competent architect in Edinburgh to survey it with this view. He, after a very favourable report as to the building, has furnish- ed a plan, we understand, which, if executed, will not only add to its internal accommodation and comfort, but also to its embellishment, both within and without This plan, to be carried fully into efiect, would cost a sum not much short of L. 1000. The funds of the burgh are not in a state to admit of much being given from that source ; but as the church is a very great favourite with the com- munity, and as a great part of the seats are private property, either belonging to public bodies or to wealthy individuals, it is probable that a sum may be raised by subscription adequate to effect, if not the whole of the projected improvements, at all events the most needful of them. For one thing, it is very inadequately lighted ; and, from the accumulation of extraneous matter in the churchyard, its floor is now considerably below the level of the surface without, which is apt to render it damp and disagreeable in wet weatlier* The seats, also, are getting old and rotten, and the passages re- quire to be relaid with flag stones. All this will be imperiously called for ere long, — not merely for improving its appearance, but from necessity, and in the view of real substantial utility. The 26 AYRSHIRE. New Church has cost the town a large sum, — little short pro-*' bably of L. 6000. The original cost was upwards of L. 4000 ; and some years ago the roof having been found insufficient, had to be renewed at a considerable additional expense. It was erected in 1810. It is a handsome enough building, both within and without, but suffers a miserable drawback in appearance as a church, on account of the want of a spire or tower. The Academy^ as a building, is plain and not very ornamental, but it is chaste, and in good taste, and fitted up with very conve- nient teaching rooms for the masters, and a large handsome hall for public meetings. It stands in an open space to the north-west of the town, and occupies a very healthy and eligible situation. A large handsome new Inn has lately been built in a very con- venient situation near the town's buildings, which the rising im- portance of the place very much required. From its standing on a line with the main street, it does not make a very showy appear- ance, but what is better, it answers the public purposes of its erec- tion. There is a spacious military barrack situated in an open level ground near the harbour ; and during the war, Ayr was always a military station. This building is capable of containing a regiment of infantry; but since the peace, it has been very little used, as sol- diers are seldom quartered here, and Government propose dispos- ing of it for some other purpose. Burrufs Monument — This splendid monument stands on a rather commanding and tasteful position, on the summit of the east bank of the river Doon, near Alloway Kirk, the bank risingabove the stream, with a pretty bold acclivity, ornamented on its brow by an orchard, and the shrubbery that surrounds the building. It is situated at nearly an equal distance betwixt the Kirk and the Atdd Brig^ having the road to M aybole across the new bridge, passing it in an oblique di- rection. It consists of a triangular base, rising to the height of 16 or 18 feet from the ground, built of very massive materials, rough and nistic'in appearance. These are intended to represent the three divisions of the county, having a face to each of the districts — Kyle, 10s. and the compounding with the landed proprietors for the redemption of the multuret must have produced, besides, a considerable sum, amount- ing probably to several thousands. Mr Oswald's lands, for instance, were redeemed for L. 600; Rozelle for L. 500; Castlehill for L.300; Sessionfield for L. 75, and so on in proportion. The town, from this, can have no cause to grudge any expense it is put to^r benefit of clergy. 38 ATRSHIRB. AUoway Kirk. — This ^^ auld haunted biggin'," the scene of the most talented of the poems of Burns, is an exceedingly plain old ruin, and not deserving of notice but for the celebrity which ^* Tarn o*Shanter^* has attached to it It consists of two bare walls, one storey in height, with triangular gable ends ; in one of which, the old Kirk Bell still remains suspended. The date of its erection is uncertain, but the old walls are still entire, and in a state of good preservation ; so much so, that it might still have been used as a place of worship. At the time of the junction of the parish with Ayr, the stipend was so small as to be incapable of supporting a minister, amounting only to 600 merks Scots, and without any means of augmentation, the teinds having been all exhausted. The above sum is divided equally betwixt the two Ayr ministers ; and the glebe, which is of no more than the legal extent, was given to the minister of the second charge. This glebe, however, upwards of seventy years ago, was sold to the magistrates of the burgh, with the sanction of the Presbytery, for L. 3, 6s. 8d. annually, which was then considered a fair eqifivalent. It now yields between Lfe 4 and L. 5 per acre, and is attached at present to the estate of Doonholm, so much has the value of land risen since that time. The minister of AUoway appears to have had also a manse, but no traces of it now remain. As to the old ruin of the kirk, there is little to be said in the way of description. One who had never deen it, in reading the vivid painting of scenery in connection with it by the poet, is apt to figure it in his imagination as some ex«> tremely picturesque old sacred edifice, surrounded with trees, co- vering, with their dense gloomy shade, the comical yet frightful orgies that were a carrying on within its walls. It perhaps actu- ally did partake more of this character in the days of Bums, than it does at present, as the road from Ayr appears then to have run along the top of the bank of the river from the west, through the tall thick spreading plantation that grows in that direction. This is evident from the following lines : — <' When glimmering through the groaning trees Kirk AUoway seem'd in a bleexe» • • • A winnock bunker in the east There sat Auld Nick in shape o* beast.** Now the ^^ winnock bunker*' here mentioned is still to be seen in the eastern gable from the west, but it is totally out of view from the present road, where not a single tree intervenes in approach- ing the kirk from Ayr. And, besides, the cairn and Mungo*s well, referred to in the poem, are both of them to the west of the kirk. AYR. 39 The walls of the ruin, which formerly gave access to strangers into the interior, have now been shut up and formed into a burial- ground for the Cathcarts of Auchendrane and the Crawfords of Doonside.* The Moat of AUaway is a place of considerable antiquity, and evidently of artificial construction. It is still to be seen on the right hand side of the avenue leading to the House of Doonholm. The magistrates of Ayr appear from the records of the town to have frequently held courts of justice, for the trial of petty cases, ac- cording to their charter, on its summit, which was hollowed out in the middle like the crater of a volcano. This and the old tower of St John's Church are the only distinct monuments of great antiquity now existing in the parish. The old cross^ which was removed in 1783, was a building, it is said, of some elegance, in the form of a hexagon. Coins of the reign of Charles II. having been found at its foundation, show it to have been erected in his reign. Roman Road. — The remains of the great Roman road, lead- ing from Galloway into Ayrshire, sire perfectly distinguishable, within a mile and a half of Ayr. These no one can have any diffi- culty in finding, who wishes to examine them. They lie to the south- west of Castlehill gardens, behind the gardener's house, extending from near the avenue to the mansion, to the bottom of the hill to the south-east, and up the adjoining hill, passing close by the farm-house of Breston. The features of this curious remnant of antiquity are distinctly marked, and can hardly be mistaken. We have seen also part of the same road in perfect preservation many years ago, in the neighbourhood of Dalmellington, bearing similar features. From this point, it appears to have run to the east of the River Doon, by the farms of Ponessan, Boreland, &c. on to near Cockhill, from which it had been continued in a straight line, past Castlehill, Forehill, and Fowlcauseway, to Ayr, which it entered by the ground opened for quarries at the head of the town, and ran along in the direction of what is now called Mill Street. In many parts of this course, distinct traces of it could be recognized till * So much did the mania for collecting relics of Burns at one time prevail, that when the old kirk vas open to visitors indiscriminately, in the course of a very few weeks, the whole of the old oak that remained attached to the walls was torn away, to be manufactured into snuff-boxes, which are now valued by their owners as almost beyond price. A very handsome chair of an antique form was also constructed of the aame wood, with the poem of Tarn o*Shanter engraven on brass plates on the back, and presented by Mr Auld to his late Majesty George IV. during his visit to Scotland, and very graciously received. Another of the same kind was likewise gifted to the late Earl of Eglinton, and may be seen in Eglinton Castle. 40 AYRSUiaE. within a few years back,* and there is reason to believe that, with- in little more than half a century ago, it formed the only road that was used for communication betwixt Ayr, and Galloway, and Dumfries-shire. Whether it was brought to Ayr, from its beii^ at that time a town, a sea-port, or a military station, appears uncertain, though one or other of these may probably have formed the motive. It is far from being likely that it was made to run in this direction, either for shortness or convenience, since both the nearest and most level line to the Clyde, after passing Dalmellington, would have been by Old Cumnock, Irvine, and Largs. Battk'-Fields. — On considering the above magnificent relic of Ra- man greatness, and other Roman antiquities that have been found in this parish, it appears evident that Ayr must have been a station of considerable importance, while the Romans held possession of the country. There are manifest indications that the whole of the lower part along the sea coast, from river to river, had been the scene of some great struggle in which the Romans and the natives of the island were combatants, and that probably in more than one conflict Throughout the whole of this space, Ro- man and British places of sepulture are found, with Roman ar- mour, swords, lances, daggers, and pieces of mail^ and brazen camp-vessels, intermixed with British urns of rude baked clay, hatchet and arrow heads, and other implements of warfare used by the Caledonians. One of the largest and most beautiful of these urns was found some years ago, near the banks of the Doon, among a collection of ancient bones, — > -" beneath the caim Where hunters found the murdered bairn." We have seen a very antique Tuscan-shaped pitcher, in possession of a gentleman in Ayr, that was found many years ago on the top of the rock in the Town head-quarry, thirty or forty feet under the present surface of the ground, along with a kettle that has since been lost What is somewhat remarkable, the pitcher when found was filled with sea shells, and has the appearance of having been glazed, which has been thought by some to militate against its claims to a Roman origin. We believe, however, it has been pretty clearly ascertained that the Romans were well acquainted * Those who wish further information on the subject, may consult Cha1mcra*s Ca- ledonia, Vol. iii. Ayrshire. AYR. 41 with the art of glazing. The above quarry lies along the line, as we have said, in which the old Roman road must have passed, and a reUc of this kind so &r under ground, unless it had been placed there by some contingency beyond the usual course of tilings, carries along with it some plausible reasons for believing it of an^ dent manufacture. At or near this place also, was the sit^ of the famous Bams of Ayr, But we have not been left entirely to uncertain conjecture, or vague tradition, with respect to some great conflicts having taken place in this parish in ancient times, both betwixt the Romans and the natives of the country, and with the latter amongst themselves. Having been led to make some investigation into the subject, we have found some light thrown upon it, by the follovdng autho- rities : Spottiswoode, in his history, relates that '^ in the year 360, Maximus, a Roman Prefect, excited the Picts to enter into alliance with him against the Scots, and that the Romans and Picts encountered the Scots at the Water ofDoan in Carrick. The Scots were routed, and thus King Eugenius, and most of his nobility were slain." That a great battle was also fought in this locality, betwixt the Britons and the Scots and Picts united, is as- serted by HoUingshed, Boethius, and Buchanan. The first of these represents the Silures, as inhabiting the region now known by the name of Ayrshire, and states that *' Coilus, King of the Bri- tons, having assembled an army, entered the Scottish borders lying towards the Irish Sea, wasting with fire and sword whatever he found in his way, till he came to the river Dtme^ where he encamp- ed on the banks." Boethius says, evidently in reference to the same invasion, that while Coilus was King of the Britons, the Scots and Picts attacked him, ^^ ad ripam amnis Dunae," the Scots in front, while the Picts came upon him from behind, during night. *^ Dum Coilus ipse servaretur incautius a suis, oppressus occubuit, loci nomen Coilum ad posteros relinquens." Buchanan, in his His- tory of Scotland, gives a more detailed account of this battle than either of these. Lib. 4th, cap. 4. To retaliate a hostile in- cursion, he relates of King Coilus, ^* Britto-Scottorum fines ingres- sus, ad Dunum usque amnem penetravit, &c After narrating other particulars, he thus concludes his account. ^^ Eductis copiis Scoti a fronte, Picti a tergo invasuri, ad hostem ante lucem i)erveniunt, &c. Cecidit cum parte majore suorum Coilus: ipse regionem in quapug^ natum est, de suo nomine celebrem fecit." There is a tradition 42 AYRSHIRE. Still existing in this district, that after some great battle, two Kings, Coilus and Fergus, gave their names, the former to Coil and Coyl- ton, the latter to Loch Fergus^ and Mount Fergus in this parish, local tradition assigns the site of the battle to the parish of Dal- rymple, which is not in any degree probable. The armies on both sides must have been numerous, since according to Buchanan, Coilus could easily spare five thousand men to be placed in am« buscade, and the narrow vale of the Doon, in the above parish, could a£ford no eligible ground for such a conflict On the other hand, the lower part of this parish flanked by its two rivers, with the sea in front, and the undulating ground behind, even at the present day, could yield to no other locality in point of advanta- geous battle ground. Besides, the expression on the banks of the Doon towards the Irish Seoj is suflBcient to settle the point, as the Irish Sea could only mean the Bay of Ayr ^ — not then known by that name, and being a continuation of the Irish Sea. CromwelTs Fort. — Oliver Cromwell seems to have had two ob- jects in view, by the erection of the citadel now called the Fort. In the ^st place, he intended it to serve as a military station for a large body of troops, to overawe and defend the west and south of Scotland; and, secondly^ he wished by its means to secure the command of the town and harbour of Ayr, both at that time of more importance, from the state of the times, than they are at pre* sent In correspondence with these objects, the citadel itself was both capacious and strongly fortified. As we have seen no account given of it in any other work, and as it is an object of considerable interest as connected with the antiquities of Ayr, we shall conclude our notices on this subject by a short description of its plan and construction, which we are enabled to present from the notes of a friend who has examined it for us minutely, and who is a compe- tent judge of works of this kind. The area within the walls, which on three sides are yet entire, is about twelve acres in extent The ground plan is a hexagon, with bastions at the angles, but the fi- gure is not regular, the two sides facing the sea and the town be- ing much longer than any of the others. The situation is between the town and the mouth of the river, and the strongest works front the latter. The main bastion, occupymg the north-eastern angle, close upon the harbour, and next the town, commands the entire circuit of the fortifications, the river, and the town itself. It has still an elevation above the water of forty-five feet, and is suppos- ed to occupy the site of the ancient palace and castle of Ayr, built AYR. 43 by William the Lion* The sides of this bastion, like those of the other four, which are yet to be traced, vary from 120 to 135 feet in lengfth, and their angles are regular, according to the system of fortiBcation now in use. Proceeding parallel to the riyer, along the rampart, but on a plane about fifteen feet lower, we arrive at a second bastion, con- nected with the former by a curtain 237 feet in length. The works now trend towards the west, and a second curtain, 266 feet long, conducts to a third bastion. These appear to have formed the main part of the fortifications, and have been erected with great care and at very considerable expense. The rampart is everywhere faced on the outside with a wall, strongly and exceedingly well built, of hewn-stone, inclined at the proper angles, and entire. The whole is sustained on arches, which have formed convenient securities for garrison stores and provisions. The breadth of the rampart is in this place 120 feet The works now sweep almost directly west, running parallel to the sea-line, and, when first exe- cuted, had occupied the whole of the dry ground on this side. Though the sea has now retired to a considerable distance, leav- ing a fine sandy beach, yet some of the oldest inhabitants remem- ber when the walls here were washed by the tide at high-water. This seaward curtain is 512 feet long; and though the rampart continues of the same height, viz. about 20 or 25 feet above the level of the sands, yet it has been narrow and without arches, hav- ing been composed of solid earth, faced with the same solid ma- sonry as already described. At the termination of this sea-wall, and joining the western angle of the fortification, is a fourth bas- tion, which, though smaller than the others, has been constructed with equal care and skill. From its position near to what must have been formerly the mouth of the river Doon, which we have already attempted to prove, this point must have been very strong. A curtain, 272 feet, running nearly south, conducts to a fifth bas- tion; but here the original rampait can no longer be traced, though the garden-walls of the adjacent houses are built upon its foundations, and clearly show its position. The sixth and last bas- tion has occupied the southern angle of the fort, but of this no part now remains. A long curtain and deep broad ditch had form- ed the principal defences towards the town, joining the south to the eastern bastion, whence we started in this descriptive circuit of the fortifications. Of this side of the citadel, the only remains are the hollow of the ditch, and the gate of the front wall. The lat- 44 AYRSHIRE. ter is a round-headed arch, with some heavy but not inelegant mouldings, surmounted by a square recess, in which once stood the arms of the Commonwealth of England. The interior of the fort- ress has been a large open space, of an oblong square shape, oc- cupied with barracks for the military, and other buildings, and the Church of St John, and its tower, which had been converted into an armoury and guard-room, thus literally becoming a church mi- litant The stones of which the fort was built were brought all the way from Ardrossan, by water carriage, and the whole cost so large a sum that, when reported to Cromwell, he is said to have . asked if it had been built of silver. As the whole must in process of time disappear, we are glad of this opportunity of recording what remains at the present day, as a monutiient and memorial of a period so remarkable in the history of Britain. III. — Population. At the time of the Rebellion in 1745, the population is said to have been only about 2000 ; when the last Statistical Account of the parish was published in 1791, it was 4100; and the last census in 1831 fixes it at 7606. Since the Government cen- sus, a further state of the population was taken in 1836, in order to make returns to the Royal Commission appointed to inquire into the want of religious instruction in Scotland, when the amount was found to be 7475, making a decrease of 131. But this might easily be accounted for, from the great mortality that took place in Ayr, in consequence of the disease of cholera, in 1832, which swept away a great many of the inhabitants. The population of the town within the toll-bars in 1836, was 6240, of which 2963 were under twelve years of age ; and that of the coun- try part of the parish, was 1235. The number of families amount- ed to 1647, making four and a little more than a-half the average number of each family. There is a considerable number of gen- tlemen of independent fortune residing in the town and neighbour- hood, as many resort thither for the sake of education for their children at the Academy, and to enjoy the advantages of the agree- able society of the place. A good many of this class have made fortunes in India, and in other places, both at home and abroad. The number of landed proprietors of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, amounts to 12, — their rentals varying from that sum to L. 2500. The following is a state of the number of births, mar- riages, and deaths for the last six years, since the last census was published. AYR. 45 Years. Marriages. Births. Deaths. 1831, 87 150 158 1892, 60 171 260. Year of the cholera. 1833, 79 134 118 1834, 78 154 178 1835, 70 144 174 1836, 89 115 163 From the above details^ it will appear that Ayr is progressing in point of population ; though slowly, yet as steadily as most other towns in Scotland of the same rank, where the increase is not dependent on contingent or temporary causes, such as manufactories and other extensive public works. It has little of this kind to depend on, for 'its prosperity. The produce of mechanical labour in very few ar- ticles exceeds, and in many falls short, of the consumption of the inhabitants. Hence the population is mostly indigenous, with the exception of some families of Irish labourers of the poorer class, who have been induced to become resident here, as in most other towns in the west of Scotland, from no strong tempta- tions as to remunerative employment, but because any change whatever from their miserable condition in their own country was likely to be a change for the better. Those of the natives, how- ever, with whom they mingle in the same station, have little cause to thank them for settling among them, not only as they keep down the price of labour by competition, and curtail the chances of em- ployment, but because they have tended in no small degree to demo- ralize their characters, and to undo the sturdy feelings of indepen- dence, for which Scotchmen, until of late, had been so much dis- tinguished, by inducing them to become claimants and sharers alike with them in public charities, in which they think they have a bet- ter right to participate than strangers. Character. — In exhibiting an estimate of the character of our population, it may be as well to begin with the lowest class, — those in a state of pauperism, or bordering upon it ; and here we .are oompelled to acknowledge that they have been greatly deteriorat- ed of late years, both in their civil and moral condition, from the cause we have noticed above. There are few places where the poor are better attended to and provided for than in Ayr, and they know this full well. Practical benevolence to the needy and distressed is a leading characteristic of the inhabitants, and one of the fruits of this has been, that numerous charitable bequests, mortifications, and institutions, exist for mitigating or removing in one shape or other the evils of poverty. These, however, have in some respects had an opposite effect from that designed, as they 46 AYRSHIRE. have tended to increase the number of applicants and expectants^ and to induce the needy to seek to establish a legal residence in the parish solely on their account The management of the poor's funds also, being under so numerous a body of directors, has pro- bably had the effect of creating in the community a more general interest in favour of the poor, than in most other places, and of obtaining for them a higher rate of aliment than they generally receive in any of the parishes around. Many of these directors are fluctuating ; they are apt to be guided more by impulses than by general rules ; and hence applications for aliment are decided on more by feeling, in some cases, than by expediency. Add to all this, that there is hardly a family in the higher or middling classes of society, that have not their set of dependents or hangers- on. for private bounty, that partake of what they can spare to re- lieve their wants and render them comfortable, and whom they are always earnest to recommend to public charities. Now all this ex- hibits both an amiable and a Christian spirit ; but the consequence of it has been, that one out of every iwenty»three of the population is a pauper, whereas in Glasgow, the proportion is one in every forty. It must be perfectly obvious, therefore, that such a state of things must have a tendency to deteriorate the civil and moral condition of the lower orders, by breaking down their feelings of independence, and thus by making them reiqiect themselves leas^ rendering them less respectable in the eyes of others. With these exceptions, however, it cannot be denied that the inhabitants of Ayr, in general, will bear to be compared with those of any other town in Scotland, in regard to those quali- ties that render a people happy, orderly, and respectable. They are attentive in general to religious duties, and are also steady and peaceable in their social and domestic conduct They have felt, no doubt, like those of other places, the fermentation and excite- ment occasioned by the agitation of questions of reform in Church and State; but these have never been carried the length of making them forget the ordinary proprieties of life. On the contrary, we rather think that any bitternesses thereby produced have been less marked here than elsewhere. There are few instances of open crime among even the lowest of the population, and it is certainly much to their credit that order is preserved, and property secure, without the protection of any regular system of police. The streets, and lanes, and suburbs, may be traversed at all hours of the night in perfect safety, and popular brawls and tumults are of very rare oc- AYR. 47 ourrence* The use of ardent spirits is still indulged in^ among the working-classes, to a greater extent than is beneficial to their health and morals ; but they are not in this respect worse than those of the Fame class in other places. A wish to maintain public de- cency seems to be felt by all, and the influence of public opinion is fully as operative here as elsewhere for the repression of vice, and the encouragement of social and personal virtue. Except among a few of the low Irish, a general desire prevails amon^ parents to have their children educated, and they enjoy opportunities for this purpose more ample than in most other towns, which put this blessing easily within the reach of the very poorest of the popula- tion. We confine these remarks chiefly to the lower orders of so- ciety, and we wish them to be understood as applicable in a very general way. Speaking of the inhabitants at large, we would say that they are rather of a gay and social temperament They are much given to hospitality and kindly fellowship with one another, and among the higher and middle ranks in particular, social intercourse is con- ducted with urbanity and easy politeness. Every thing like gross intemperance has been discarded. From the highest to the low- est, there is a natural propensity to press upwards ; this distin- guishes all sections of society ; it may appear a little more ridicu- lous in a provincial town than in the elite of the west end of Lon- don, or the fashionable saloons of Paris ; but still it emanates from the same all*pervading principle. The society in Ayr, taking it all in all, is as agreeable and well-regulated and as fashionable as can be met with, in any other county town. RaceSf S;c. — holds the lease of both, extending from the mouth of the Doon to the Pow Burn, beyond Prestwick. For two or three 52 AYRSHIRE. months after the season opens, he fishes only with drag*nets, in the rivers ; after which, stake-nets are erected, and ten or twelve men are constantly employed. The fish, besides supplying Ayr market, are sent to Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Carlisle, and some- times even to London. Poaching is occasionally detected, but it is not practised to any great extent. fVkite or Sea Fishinff. — Ayr is, at all times, supplied with abun- dance of excellent fish, there beingin the market sometimes no fewer than upwards of twelve varieties. Its port has been long the prin- cipal fishing station on the west coast ; but since the introduction of navigation, so many facilities have presented themselves for the con- veyance of fish to the great markets, from other points of the Frith of Clyde, and particularly from the Argyleshire coast, that many fishers have removed thither firom this place. The number of boats employed in the trade, at present, does not exceed one*half of what it was twenty years ago. Formerly, the whole Frith and all its lochs were tributary to the Ayr fishers, who carried much of the produce in wherries to Greenock and Glasgow. Now, how- ever, by the location of fishers on other parts of the coast, they are limited in their operations to Ayr and its vicinity, and to the supply of the Ayr market At present, there are only seven boats employed, with four men in each, and their attention is wholly di« rected to the fishing of cod, ling, haddocks, whitings, turbot, skate, flounders, mackarel, and herrings, for home consumption. All these kinds of fish are scarce in comparison to what they once were* This has been attributed by some to severe fishing, and by others to the comparative absence of herrings, which do not spawn on this west coast to the extent to which they did formerly. It is a well known fact, that wherever this fish is in abundance, cod, ling, and turbot^ which are never seen in some places except in company with them, arealsotobe had in great plenty. In former years, 120 stone of mis- cellaneous white fish have been often taken in a day, from the Frith of Clyde by one boat ; whereas 70 stone is now reckoned great fish- ing, and the average weight brought to Ayr, per day, may be stat- ed at 12 stone for each boat, during the best of the season, and 5 stone during the worst. Herrings and. mackarel are only got in season, during the summer months. In addition to the fish above-mentioned, soles, red gurnard, or gurnet, halibut, lai^ conger eels, &c. are occasionally taken and brought to market Among those found in the bay of no econo- mical importance are, the porpoise, miller's-thumb, fiddle-fish, sun-fish) pilot-fish, ink-fish, &c The grey gurnard is abundant. AYR. 63 but it is never taken for sale. Shell-fish of every kind are scarce. A few lobsters and crabs are caught in traps placed on the outside of sunk rocks, in the bay. The black rock, near the Troon, is a fa- vourite haunt for them, where they are occasionally taken. The mode of catching white fish followed here, is with long lines. Each boat works from 12 to 14 lines, each line having 1800 hooks suspended from it, at the distance of an ell from each other. The bait used for small fish is mussel, from about J^ammas t,ill April, and a worm dug from sandy shores, left dry at ebb tide, call- ed lug, during the remaining part of the year. The bait used for large fish is herrings and small whitings, which are both taken in preference to haddocks and other small fish. The lines for small fish are all shot or laid in before day-break, and immediate- ly thereafter taken up. In fishing cod, &c. in deep water, lines may be shot in day-light Turbot is chiefly fished with nets, and it is not many years since it began to be fished at all, or was known to exist in the bay. Next to salmon, this fish is now the favourite for dinner parties. Manufactures. — It has often been a matter of surprise, that Ayr has not been more benefited by manufactures and public works, — possessing as, it does, so many advantages for this purpose, and such facilities of communication with other places both by sea and land. With such an extensive grain country surrounding it, dis- tilleries could not &il to thrive ; the price of labour is low rated, and all|the other requisites are easily procurable. Cotton works might prosper as well here as at Catrine, the town being as favourably situated in regard to all the materials necessary, — coal, water, and labourers in abundance ; while it has greatly the ad- vantage, by enjoying the means of sea as well as of land carriage. And we can see nothing to hinder the manufacture of wool in its various branches, particularly in the weaving of carpets, from suc- ceeding as well in this place as in Kilmarnock, which owes to this cause so much of its wealth and prosperity. Carpets. — We are glad to have it in our power to bring for- ward to view one instance of successful enterprise in the ma- nufacturing line in this town, and to hold it up as an example of what might be done, on a more extensive scale, with every prospect of the hi^piest results, both as regards the investment of money, and the extension of employment among our operative population. We allude to the large and thriving establishment of Mr Templeton, for the spinning of wool and the manufacture, of carpets ; and we mention it thus particularly, because it is the 54 AYRSHIRE. only experiment of the kind that has yet been made by any of our townsmen. This work, from a very trifling commencement, with a few hands employed for the spinning of cotton into yarn, and a fly-wheel moved by a single individual, has grown up in the course of time to be an extensive and complicated manufactory, in which thousands of pounds have been invested with a large remunerative return, and upwards of a hundred workers of different kinds are constantly employed. But this is not all. So successful and en- couraging has the speculation been, that it is about to be nearly doubled in all its details. A large and spacious addition to the buildings has already been contracted for, and will speedily be erected ; an additional steam engine of forty horse power has been ordered ; and nearly a hundred more hands will be required to the establishment, in its various departments. The hours of labour and other matters are regulated by the late Act of Parliament in regard to manufactories. The carpet- weavers are employed from twelve to fourteen hours a day, and being all paid by the piece, they can earn about L. 2 in three weeks. A brother of the proprietor of this work carries on a manufactory at what is called the Dutch Mill on the.Doon, near Burns' monument, for carding, spinning, and weaving wool into plaiding or blankets, in which about 30 hands are employed in and out of the mill. The machinery is all wrought by water. This also is a thriving concern, and has been greatly increased during the last few years. Other Produce. — Unfortunately, there are hardly any other ma- nufactures belonging to the town or parish, worthy of notice. Shoe- making was carried on to a great extent during the war, but it is now greatly reduced. There is one tradesman who still does a good deal of business in the export trade in this way, chiefly to the British colonies. He employs betwixt 80 and 100 tradesmen, but his orders are mostly from export dealers in Glasgow. There are about 200 shoemakers in the town, and upwards of that number, probably 250, of hand-loom weavers, who work to orders from manufacturing towns at a distance. In tanning and currying, there is also a little business done, and about 20 workmen employed in three separate establishments. The raw material manufactured amounts to a few thousand hides and skins annually, which are dis- posed of mostly in Ayr, Kilmarnock, and Glasgow. The periods of labour are from eight to ten hours in winter, and from ten to twelve hours in summer, and the remunerative return for the capital thus employed is believed to be encouraging. The flowering and point- AYR, 55 ing of muslin is carried on to a great extent, by agents commission- ed from Glasgow, and has proved a great blessing to many fe- males in this community. About 300 in this parish are thus em- ployed, who earn from 4d. to 2s. per day. There are nine incor- porated trades in Ayr, but, with the exception of those above no- ticed, the produce of their mechanical labour is chiefly confined to the consumption of our own population.* A^/r Harbour, — The harbour of Ayr appears to have been a port for shipping, of as old standingasthe town itself. At a very early pe- riod of Scotch history, mention is made of ships having been built here, by several of the Kings of Scotland ; and in the time of Buch- anan, it is described in his history, as ^' Emporium non iffnobile," A serious drawback, however, to its position as a port is formed by a bar at its mouth, occasioned by the deposit of alluvial matter brought down by the river during floods, as has been already noticed. Much has been done, and a great deal of money expended, to lessen this obstruction, for its entire removal is probably impracticable. Some years ago, a wall of from 20. to 25 feet in height, 8 or 9 feet broad at the top, and probably three times as much at the base, was carried out into the sea, to the extent of upwards of 300 yards on the south side, and more recently another new wall or pier, pa- rallel to the other, was constructed on the north side at consider- able expense. And it is intended, we understand, to erect a break- water still further out than either of these, at the mouth of the en- trance into the harbour, according to a plan furnished by an en- gineer of competent skill in such matters.'!' This, if finished, as pro- jected, will, it is said, cost about L. 4000. Ordinary spring-tides are from 13 to 14 feet of water, and within the bar there is space to contain 80 sail. The number of vessels belonging to the port is 18, and the amount of tonnage is 2459. The following is a state of the income and expenditure for 1836: Tonnage dues on vessels, - - L. 688 5 7 on goods, . - 193 9 8 Crane duesj fines, &c. - - 19 18 2 L. 901 13 5 Expenditure, - . 1677 13 Excess of expenditure, - . L. 675 19 7 * We bad prepared for this head a short Account of the patent tlip in the wood- yard of Messrs Cowan and Sloan ; but it is omitted in consequence of our being re- minded, that as being placed on the other side of the river, though the proprietors and many of the workmen reside herei it more properly belongs to tlie parish of New* ton-upon-Ayr. f Since the above was written, the wo^k has been begun. 56 AYRSHIRE. Thifl excess of the expenditure above the income during the last year was occasioned by laige repairs on the quay walls, &c Amount ofcfebt pievioiu to 1896, L. 976 7 Increave oTdeM in 1896, - 675 19 7 Total amount ofdebt at butaudit in Noyemberl8S6,X>. 1652 6 7. An open cash-account is kept with the Ayrshire Banking Com- pany for L. 2000. The number of vessels cleared at Ayr for 1836 was 739 ; tonnage 62,730, not including steam -boats* The ordi- nary expenditure of the harbour amounts to about L. 300 annually, including salaries to office-bearers, the expense of the light-house, and of cleaning and dredging the river. Several Acts of Parlia- ment have been obtained for regulating and improving the port of Ayr. A new one was passed in 1835, superseding the former, and is that which is now in operation. It vests the management in twenty- four trustees, namely, the provost, two bailies, treasurer^ and dean of guild, six councillors, seven shipowners, one member of the Sailor's Society, one from the Merchant's Company, the convener of the trades, the senior bailie of Newton, and two of New- ton councillors. By this act, the trustees are authorized to charge for all goods landed or shipped at the quays, 4d. per ton, and ^ per barreL The present dues on vessels are chaiged as follows : Tonage. Ton, Anchorage, Under 20 tons, 2d. under 20, Is. Od. 20 under 40 dd. 20 to 40, 1 6 40 under 80 d^d. 40 to 60, 2 80 and upwards, 8d. 60 to 80, 2 6 Vessels in baUast, 2d. 80 to 100, 3 100 to 150, 4 150 to 200, 5 •boTe 200, 7 Twopence per ton for all goods shipped per crane. Trade of the Harbour.^^ About sixteen vessels arrive annually, from foreign ports, with cargoes consisting of hemp, mats, tal- low, tar, iron, pitch, timber, &;c. From twelve to seventeen sail to foreign countries with cargoes of coals, cordage, leather, cot- ton and woollen goods, &c. There are about 300 vessels, coasiwaysy that arrive here from other parts of the United King* dom, laden with corn, groceries, haberdasheries, hardware, iron, lead, and other general traffick. The quantity of com brought into harbour last year was as follows: — Barley, 318 quarters; beans, 643 do.; peas, 51 do.; oats, 11,145 do.; oatmeal, 5623 cwt«; wheat-flour, 306 do.; wheat, 3136 quarters. About 1100 vessels, coastways, have sailed from Ayr to other parts of the united kingdom, during the last year, with cargoes con^pttn^of coals, corn, wool, and other general goods. The quantity of coals AYR. 57 shipped amounted to betwixt 50,000 and 60,000 tons ; and of grain as follows: — Barley, 84 quarters; beans, 188 do. ; oats, 87 do. ; wheat, 5571 do. ; patmeal, 3178 cwt$ wheat-flour,' 5586 do. Sheriff'Caurt of Ayr. — The business of the law constitutes a leading profession here. There are twenty-one resident practis- ing procurators, besides writers belonging to other towns in the county, who have a right to practise. There is, perhaps, no pro- vincial law court in Scotland in which business is conducted more expeditiously, or less expense is incurred by unnecessary delay in obtaining legal dec'isions, than in the sheriff-court of Ayr. If cases are unduly protracted, the fault must be with the law agents, not with the sheriffs ; but hardly any complaint of this kind has grounds for existence. The ordinary court where cases are conducted by written pleadings, is held every Tuesday during session. The winter session commences at the latest on the 15th day of October, or first ordinary court day thereafter, and continues until the 4th of April inclusive, except during the Christmas recess, which is not longer than three weeks. The summer session begins on the first court day, after the 15th of May, and continues until the last court day in July. During the vacations, two days are appointed on which papers may be received in process. The number of cases insti- tuted before this court during the year 1834 was 431 ; in 1835, 473 ; in 1 836, 543. Of these, the number advocated to the Court of Session was, in 1834, 7; in 1835, 6; in 1836, 4. TTie Small Debt Courtj for the disposal of cases where the debt does not exceed Im 8, 6s. 8d. is held every Thursday, and parties are heard viva voce. The number of cases decided in 1834 was 1609; in 1835, 1408; in 1836, 1326. The number o( criminal cases tried before the sheriff and a jury during the year 1834 was 16; in 1835, 25; in 1836, 20. The number of petty criminal cases where the punishment concluded for does not exceed sixty days imprisonment, that were tried before the sheriff during the . above periods was, in 1834, 126; in 1835, 88; in 1836, 100. There is also a Commissary Court held every week during ses- sion, when business requires it, in which the sheriffs are also judges, the ordinary presiding judge being the sheriff-substitute. There are no separate salaries belonging to it, and the only expenses in- curred are to the clerk of the court, and the agents employed. There is also a Burgh Criminal Courts in which the magistrates preside, as cases happen to come before them ; and a Justice of Peace Court is held every Monday morning, for adjusting of debts under L. 5, and the trial of minor offences. 58 AYRSHIRE. Banks. — In 1763, a bank was instituted by John M^Adam and Company ; but it was soon superseded by the extensive and ad- Yenturous establishment known over the whole of Scotland, by the name of Douglas, Heron, and Company. This bank commenced in 1769, under a numerous copartnery, who did business to a prodi- gious extent In consequence of the uUra-liberality of the credit they allowed, the wide range of their dealings, and their capital be- ing mostly founded in landed property, which could not be render- ed promptly available, the stability of the house was soon shaken, and at last overturned, and it ended in a bankruptcy as extensively ruinous as any speculation of the kind, perhaps, that has ever occur- red in the country. Its failure happened in 1772, only three years after its commencement It is generally allowed, however, that, by the liberal credit which they allowed for the encouragement of commercial and agricultural speculations, they did an immense deal of good to industrial enterprise in the way of trade and manufac- tures, and particularly in the improvement of landed property. It is pretty well understood that both the resources they supplied, and the failure of these resources, were equally the means of giving a stimulus to the cultivation of the soil, and the introduction of an im- proved mode of husbandry over the whole of this western district In consequence of so extensive a bankruptcy, many landed estates fell into the hands of new proprietors, who adopted at the same time a change for the better in their mode of management This bank was succeeded by that of Messrs Hunters and Company, which has existed ever since. By avoiding the error of its predecessor, and steering a prudent medium betwixt rashness and over-caution, it has turned out a very prosperous concern to all who have been connected with it, and as secure and respectable an establishment as any other of the kind in our provincial towns. In 1775, a branch of the Bank of Scotland was instituted in Ayr, but it has never been very extensive in its dealings, and is less so now than ever, in consequence of the greater competition in the line that has started up of late. It is, however, highly respectable, both as re- gards its agents and the nature of its transactions. A few years ago, a new banking establishment was commenced under the name of the Ayrshire Banking Company, which has every appearance, from the branches belonging to it in the county, of doing business to a considerable extent It is supported by a numerous copartnery, and seems to be conducted in a very spirited manner. There is also a branch of the Glasgow Union Bank here, so that, with these 3 AYR. 59 four establishments, there is no want of the sinews of commercial and industrial enterprise. Sailors' Society. — This association was instituted so far back as the year 1 581, for the benefit of decayed mariners, and their widows and children after their death. Its records extend to the date of its commencement, and to a person capable of decyphering the an- tiquated style of handwriting in which they are set down, they might afford much curious and useful information illustrative of t*he manners of the times, and the local history of the burgh. To ren- der them intelligible, however, is fully as difficult a task as to trans-- late from a dead language. We have had the privilege of perusing some extracts from them in modern penmanship, made by one of the members now living, who had been at considerable pains in penetrating into their contents. The following incident will be deemed interesting. In the year 1647, during the prevalence of a destructive plague or pestilence, a meeting of the members of the society, specially convened, took place, in which, after mentioning the names of those present, amounting to a goodly congregation, it is thus recorded : " The above-named persons, after serious invo- cation of the name of God, publicly by the minister, they apart by themselves in the choir of the church, (John Osborne beginning with prayer,) ilk person of them stood up on his feet, and one after another, made particular confession of his sins and wickedness, be- fore the Majesty of the Great God, and in presence o/ the people then assembled, and did before each of them, their confession with prayer, entreating his Majesty to pardon their bygone offences, and that he would, for Christ's sake, arrest this present plague of pesti- lence, quilk every man in particular acknowledged his sins to be the cause of." Among a long list of sins thus confessed, and minutely recorded, we find some charging themselves with being guilty of a strong inclination, in their travels, after the idolatrous worship of the mass, and declaring that *^ the first thing that made them quat it, was the swearing of the covenant in this land." .Others are repre- sented as being guilty of unlawful gain, by alluring and carrying off children to the West Indies, from which it would appear that this was a crime sometimes practised by mariners at that time. Among other irregularities, are confessed with great contrition, swearing, blasphemy, drunkenness, incontinence, &c. particularly when ab- sent from home, and in foreign parts. It would be strange, at the present day, to find members of the sailors' or any other society acting a similar part, and putting individually their secret sins uport record. 60 AYRSHIRE. Another circumstance of considerable interest in the records of this society, is a detail of the expense incurred in building the gal- lery in the old church, now known by the name of the Sailors' Loft. There is a circumstantial account of all the items of the costs incurred, — ^timber, iron, stone for the pillars, wages, drink to the workmen, &c, amounting in all to L. 717, Ss. 2d. Scots, or L. 59, 15s. Sd. Sterling. This is dated in May 1655 — the year following that when the old church was built ; and the measure appears to have been entered into in consequence of an act of the town-council authorizing it, and making OTor to them the right of property in the lofL From this we would infer, that the three galleries, claimed and held by the sailors, merchants, and trades, were appropriated to these public bodies, in consequence of their being at the expense of fitting them up for their own use. This will be further corroborated by the notice we are about to give of the Merchant Company. If, then, Cromwell advanced a sum of money for building the church, as is generally asserted and be- lieved, it must have been laid out in the stone-work of the edi- - fice, and fitting up the remaining part of the interior; but the mat- ter is doubtful. The members of this society consist now of the most respectable and influential of the inhabitants. Its affairs are managed at present by twenty-two honorary members, who must be owners in part of a square-rigged vessel, and the entry money is Lb 5,— except to the eldest sons of members, who are only charged one guinea for admission. They receive no benefit, except a title to a seat in the front of the sailors' gallery, in the Old Church. The sum of L. 63, 4s. 6d. was divided last year among eighty pensioners. Formerly threepence per pound were charged on the wages of sailors belonging to the port ; but this has been discontinued, in consequence of another association called The Merchant Seamen^s Society^ being established by act of Parliament. Every attempt by the latter to unite the two has been resisted by the former, as there exists a pride in keeping up as a distinct body, so ancient and respectable a fraternity, connected with the port and trade of Ayr. Its only revenue now is, the admission money of entrants, the interest of L. II 00 in the hands of the town, L. 45 in Hunter and Company's bank, and L. J 2 annually, or upwards, of seat-rents in the sailors' loft. Merchanbf Company* — This Association claims its origin as far back as 1655, upwards of seventy years after the cmnmencement of the Sailors' Society. It was originally called the Merchant Booth Keepers of the Burgh of Ayr ^ — those who dealt in merchandize AYB. 61 in those days having been in the practice of doing their business in open booths, on the sides of the streets. The Company appears to have had, for many years, no definite object in view, and was constituted about the time of the building of the Old Church, (then styled the New Church,) — the contributing of the merchants to the fitting up of the gallery, which still bears their name, having led to its formation. It is not shewn from their record book, which dates as far back as this period, what was the amount of their con- tributions to this object, as in the case of the Sailors' Society, nor yet does it appear that at first they were at the expense of finishing the whole of the loft. The front seat, and the three or four rows of benches immediately behind it, are only mentioned as the pro- perty which they claimed in it. It is probable, however, that, in proportion as their funds increased, the whole gallery was in time fitted up by them, as it has long since become their exclusive pos- session. Their funds originally arose wholly out of the sums re- ceived as the entry money of members, and the sole privilege which the members enjoyed was a right to sittings in the front of the loft, the other seats being let indiscriminately at a certain rate for each sitting. The seat rent amounted originally to L. 6 Scots for a front seat, and L.d for back seats, to sons and sons-in- law of members, while strangers were chained 20 merks for the former, and 10 merks for the latter. The admission money of members rose by degrees at different periods to L. 1, lis. L. 2, L.2, 10s. L.d, L.d, 10s. L. 4, 4s. and finally, in 1818^ to L.6, 6s. Up to the above date, 1818^ although the funds had been pro- gressively increasing, the Company seem to have had no spe- cific object in view in their application, further than giving oc- casional aid to decayed members, and indigent widows of mem- bers deceased; which, however, was entirely gratuitous on the part of the Association, none having any claim to it as a matter of right. In 1819, however, a committee was appointed to form a scheme for the benefit of decayed members' widows and orphans, on a systematic plan, which scheme was adopted on their report in 1820, and put in operation. At this period, the capital of the company was L. 670, and in 1828, their funds had increased to L. 1140. At present they amount to L. 2000. Besides the re- veniie arising from the admission-money of entrants, and the year* ly contributions of the members, there was the annual produce of the seat rents in their loft in the church, which was considerably increased, after it was repaired two or three years ago. It is need- less to mention here the regulations of the company. It is now 62 AYRSHIRE. coDstituted on a principle somewhat similar to that of insurance upon lives, whereby, on paying a certain fixed rate of entry money, varying according to the age of the entrant, and that of his wife, and an yearly payment afterwards, the widows of deceased mem- bers are entitled to an annuity for life, or while they remain un- married, and their children also to an yearly allowance, till they reach a certain age. It may be stated generally, that the entry- money is L. 6, 6s. for a person aged twenty years, rising gradually till it reaches Lb 10, 10s., that being the sum exacted from an en- trant of forty years of age. The annual contribution is L. 1, Is. to be doubled for the first five years after admission ; and the an- nuity is L. 10. The company form a corporate body, by a seal of cause from the magistrates and council, but they enjoy no exclu- sive privileges, either mercantile or political. None formerly were eligible to be members of it, unless they were burgesses and guild- brethren, but this restriction has lately, we believe, been set aside, and so has also the allowance before granted to decayed members. Incorporated Trades. — There are nine incorporated trades in Ayr, viz. the squaremen, hammermen, tailors, skinpers, coopers, weavers, shoemakers, dyers, and fleshers. The most numerous of these are the squaremen, as they include masons, wrights, slaters, and glaziers. They have all separate royal charters of incorpora- tion, with the exception of the coopers and dyers, who had only a seal of cause from the magistrates, and they all claim the privileges granted to the craftsmen of Scotland, by the charter of Queen Mary in 1564. They possess the exclusive right of carrying on their separate trades or manufactures within the burgh ; but this confers no great privilege, as the right does not extend to the other side of the river, where competition with them may exist without their control. The chief advantage that they receive arises from the aid afforded from their funds to their widows, or to members them* selves, when rendered destitute by sickness or old age. The funds of some of the trades are considerable, and they are derived prin- cipally from the entrance-money of members. They are mostly vested in heritable security, and some of them possess valuable property of their own. One of the galleries in the Old Church, which is called by their name, belongs to the incorporated trades, from which, it would appear, that, like the Sailors' Society, and Merchants' Company, they also had been at the expense of fitting up a loft for themselves, at the time when the church was erected. This loft has lately been thoroughly repaired and new seated at AYR. 63 their joint expense, and a large handsome window, with an edging of stained glass, opened up at the west end, which has a fine effect. The front seat is allotted to the convener, and the deacons of the different incorporations, and formerly the benches behind were filled with tradesmen and their apprentices indiscriminately. This, to strangers, had rather a novel appearance, by exhibiting a dense congregated mass of men, without any mixture of females. Since the gallery has been repaired, however, one-half of it has been formed into pews, and let to tradesmen and their families at an annual seat rent, which assimilates it more to the portions occu- pied by other parts of the congregation. The other half is appro- priated, as before, to tradesmen, journeymen, and apprentices, who choose to sit there. Several of the trades have separate widows' funds of their own, which it is optional on the members to enter or not, as they may feel inclined, and the annual payments vary from Is. to 88. The ulterior benefits derived from them, of course, bear a similar proportion. The convener's board of deacons are respec- tively chosen by the corporations, and have a general superintend- ence of what concerns them as a united body, each retaining the separate management of its own affairs. Writer^ Society. — This association was called originally " The Fraternity of Procurators in Ayr ;" but the period when it com- menced cannot now be ascertained. Its records extend no further back than 1710; but that it was in existence before that time, these records themselves seem evidently to intimate. It then con- sisted of eight or ten members ; and its object was, to provide a fund for the relief of their wives and children after their decease, and also for themselves in case of indigence. So far back as the record-book extends, the dues of admission were five merks from each apprentice to one of the fraternity, and ten pounds Scots on his admission as a member, while those who had not served with one of the society, paid one hundred merks Scots, the entry-money being the same in both cases. In 1710, the funds of the society amounted to only one hundred merks, and, along with the interest^ were disposed of firom- time to time, according to the pleasure of the members, there being no definite object in view. But in the year 1772, the funds having accumulated to L. 243, 18s. lid. Sterling, it was agreed that each member should make an annual contribution of a guinea, besides other small occasional payments, so as to enable the society to give .a reasonable annuity to the wives and children of deceased members. The annuity was fixed 64 AYRSHIRE. at L. 10 Sterling, and continued so till the year 1818. Id con« sequence of this annuity, the admission dues were raised to L. 5, to be paid by those who should serve with members, and to L. 15 to such as should be apprenticed elsewhere. At the same time, the entry-money was made to consist of two rates, which were raised progressively, first, to L. 20 and L. 40 ; second, to L. 25 and L. 45 ; and, third, to L. 40 and L. 80. Besides this and the annual contribution of a guinea, it was agreed that each mem- ber who wished to augment the annuity to the extent of Ia 20 above the ordinary rate, should contribute L. 1, 10s. for five years in addition to his annual payments, and this to commence in 1818. In 1820, it was resolved to admit none into the so- ciety but such as had served their apprenticeship with members residing in Ayr, and the entry-money was then fixed to be L. 54» lOs.^ and the annuities to be L. 50 after 1825. Owing, however, to the interest of money having fallen, and the unexampled num- ber of widows who had become a burden on the funds, the an- nuity has qever been more than L. 40, but it is continued to chil- dren till they be eighteen years of age. There are at present twenty-four members belonging to the society, but five of these do not reside in Ayr, and four do not practise before the Sheriff- court Their funds in 1886 amounted to L. 7434, 68. 2id. ; but there were no fewer than eleven widows deriving annuities, and one decayed member, who receives L. 20 yearly. Three of the widows get L. 10 each annually, their husbands having died pre- vious to 1818, and the other eight receive the balance of the in- terest and the contributions, the society having resolved in no case to encroach on the capital. The annuity to decayed members is now abolished. There was, till of late, a sinking fiind of L. 50 a- year ; but that is at present suspended, till the existing burdens be diminished. The admission dues are fixed at two guineas at the commencement of apprenticeship, or, in lieu thereof, five gui- neas on becoming a member, --besides L. 78 of entry-money, and one guinea of annual contribution. Ayrshire Horticultural and Agricultural jSoct^fy.— ^This society, which at first was only horticultural, was formed in 1815 ; and its object was to promote and encourage horticulture, in all its branches, throughout the county. It consisted of about sixty members, and was under the management of a president, vice* preses, and six counsellors. . The late Earl of Eglinton was the first president and patron of the institution. At the .annual com« 1 AYR. C5 petitions, prizes were awarded for the best specimens of fruits, flowers, and vegetables, and for several years the society was con- ducted with gseat spirit, and proved highly conducive to the object for which it was formed. There is a library, which was com- menced in 1824, consisting of books on horticulture, botany, na- tural history, &c ; and at this period it contains about a hundred volumes. In the year 1831, there was a splendid exhibition, on a large scale, of all the productions of the vegetable kingdom that useful and ornamental gardening could furnish, — specimens of these, both rich and rare, having been brought forward from dif- ferent parts of the county, by practical gardeners and amateurs. This interesting show was among the first of the kind in Scotland, and was the means of gaining high repute to the institution, and of procuring for it many additional members. In 1832, the as- sociation united with it most of the agriculturists of the district, and from this period took the name of " TTie Ayrshire Harticvl'- tural and Agricultural Society^* and six additional councillors were added to the former number. In 1833 and 1834, there were ex- hibitions of all sorts of produce belonging to the two branches of the institution. It seems to be conducted in a spirited manner, and cannot fail to be useful, by exciting emulation, and a more intimate communion among two most respectable classes, closely allied to each other in their professional pursuits. Ayr Medical Association, — A Society under the above designa- tion has existed among medical practitioners since 1830, for mutual instruction and professional communication. It consists of almost the whole of the gentlemen belonging to the profession in the town, and of several in other parts of the county. Each of the members contributes one sovereign annually to the funds which are expended in the purchase of books and journals, chiefly of a professional character. Thus the periodical medical literature of Britain, and of foreign countries, and works of merit which are from time to time issued from the press on subjects connected with the profession, are in constant circulation among the mem- bers. This renders the association the more useful, as such pro- ductions could not be so conveniently procured otherwise, not being admissible into libraries intended for general readers. The books are kept at present at the Dispensary rooms, where all the mem- bers can easily avail themselves of them. We take this oppor- tunity of paying a well-marked tribute of respect to the medical AYR £ 66 AYRSHIRE. gentlemen of Ayr. They are about a dozen in number, and they are not less distinguished as a body for their disinterested huma- nity to the poor, than they are for urbanity of manners, and lite- rary and professional attainments. V. — Parochial Economy. Internal Communication. — Ayr is the only town in the parish, and there is no collection of houses in the country district, of such extent as even to deserve the name of village. But there is no provincial town that enjoys more amply the means and facilities of communication with other places, both by sea and land. There are regular packets and traders from the harbour, to Liverpool, Glas- gow, Dublin, &C. at all times of the year ; and in summer, steam- boats sail betwixt this and Glasgow every day, communicat- ing with the other towns along the coast A steam-boat sails also every Saturday to Stranraer, touching at Ayr, and returns on the Monday following, thereby affording the means of conveyance to and from Ireland. There are arrivals of the mail from London once, and from Glasgow and Edinburgh twice, every day, and depart- ures as often, and a mail-coach has lately been started from Glas- gow for Ireland, through Ayr, which affords a great convenience to the whole of this western district A traveller has it in his power to go from this to Edinburgh by coach, at five different times every lawful day, and to arrive in A^r from the east by near- ly as many opportunities. An Edinburgh coach runs daily by Loudon hill, Strathaven, &c. thus opening up adistrict of country with which there was formerly little communication. There are also coaches twice a-week or oftener, to all the inland towns in the district, of any note, Irvine, Maybole, Girvan, Cumnock, and Dal- mellington ; and through the last, there is a regular stage-coach thrice every week to Dumfries during the summer months. The roads in the parish are kept in excellent order, as there is a su- perintendent with a liberal salary, appointed by the trustees to pre- serve them in proper condition. There is a plan going forward at present, to form a rail-road betwixt Ayr and Glasgow, and an- other betwixt Glasgow and Edinburgh, &c. which will render the means of conveyance still more expeditious and easy, both for pas- sengers and goods. The money necessary for this great and im- portant undertaking has been already subscribed in shares, and the sanction of Parliament is only wanted to commence the work, which will certainly tend in many ways to the advantage of Ayr, AYR. 67 as well as the county generally, both in the way of trade and tra* veiling.* Ecclesiastical State, — Ayr has been a collegiate charge since the days of Queen Mary, who made provision for a second minister. As to the junction of Alloway parish, there is almost nothing dis- tinctly known, in regard to the mode or the terms by which it was ef- fected ; there being little or nothing mentioned about it in the records of the town about that time, nor in those of the kirk-session. We have already stated that it took place about the end of the seven- teenth century, and that the stipend, amounting only to L. 32| with the teind all exhausted, was divided equally betwixt the two ministers of Ayr. llie glebe was annexed to the second charge, for no other reason that can be discovered, than that the first liv- ing had been previously provided with one. This glebe was feued along with the lands of Alloway, by the magistrates, with the con- sent of the presbytery, and yields only the yearly sum of L. 3, 6s. 8d« there having been no more than the statutory extent. No provi- sion seems to have been made, as in some other junctions of a simi- lar kind, for having divine service performed at Alloway, and indeed there was little cause, the distance from Ayr to where the old church stands being little more than two miles. The same rea- son as to distance, however, would apply still more forcibly as to the union of Monkton and Prestwick, when it was stipulated to have public worship performed at the latter place every third Sab- bath, though the distance betwixt them is scarcely a mile. But the case was very different with respect to Ayr, where the magis- trates were the only party having power in the matter ; whereas in the other case, there were different bodies to treat with. But, in feet, it is impossible to say whether there had been any thirg of this kind stipulated for or not, as the decree of annexation by the Court of Teinds has either been lost, or purposely withheld, since no such deed could ever be made forthcoming. We have heard that the Ayr ministers continued to preach in Alloway, every third Sabbath, for some time after the union of the parishes ; but whe- ther this was voluntary, or by positive stipulation, cannot now be ascertained. If the latter had been the case, it is not likely that the practice could have been so easily relinquished. For a long period after the junction, the old church of Ayr seems to have been perfectly adequate to accommodate the whole population of the * The Bill hu been passed by the House of CommoDs, and is now in progress through the Upper House, since the above was written. 68 AYRSHIRE. two parishes. But towards the end of the last century, the want of church room began to be seriously felt, there having been very few Dissenters in the place, and hardly any dissenting places of worship. Before the new church was built, the demand for sit- tings in the old church became so great, that a single pew would cost a sum that would be considered extravagant at the present day. What added to their value, and the difficulty of obtaining seat room was, that the galleries had become appropriated to dif- ferent corporations, to which they continue to belong at this day. Hence the demand for pews was such, in the disposable part of the church, that the most of them were purchased as private proper- ty by the more wealthy classes, and still continue to be so held. Accordingly, many who, from these causes, could not procure ac- commodation in their own parish church, were under the necessity of obtaining it in the church of Newton-upon- Ayr, or elsewhere ; to which they have mostly since adhered, when otherwise they would in all probability have continued to receive instruction from their own parish ministers. The magistrates committed two material errors in regard to the building of the new church, the consequences of which have continued to be seriously felt ever since. The Jirst was, their not having erected it at an earlier period, in order to supply timeovsly the existing wants of the people for seats, and thus prevent them from seeking them elsewhere. The second consisted in their not allowing or soliciting the proprietors of land to bear their share in the expense, which, it is said, they would willingly have done, in order to provide suitable church accommodation for their tenantry. Ayr, in this respect, differs from all other parishes in Scotland that have landed districts, and it is owing, perhaps, to the magistrates having been once the sole proprietors. Not a single tenant on any of the estates into which the parish has been now subdivided, can claim seats for himself and family, as belonging to his farm, and not a landlord has it in his power to serve his tenantry with seat room in the same church with himself, in return for the stipend which is paid to their parish ministers. There is thus a want of those most sacred of all ties betwixt them that can bind men to* gether, both as public bodies and as individuals. There is no lack of unoccupied seats in the new church ; they may be had by such as choose to pay for them; and yet, the proprietors of land, who cer- tainly have no disinclination to accommodate their farmers in this respect, are put out of the way of doing so, from having no right AYR. 69 of property in the building. In the old church, the seats are all let or nearly so, and in some parts belonging to incorporated bodies, which have been lately repaired, there are more demands for sittings than can be supplied. The attendance here is always numerous and respectable. It was built in 1654, and the new church in 1810. Both are capable of accommodating from 2000 to 2500 sitters, and there are about 1000 communicants or upwards at each sacrament, — this ordinance being dispensed twice a-year. There is no want of church accommodation at present in the pa- rish, and a considerable number of sittings have been set apart for the poor by the magistrates, some entirely gratisj and others at such low rates as to make them easily accessible to the most indi- gent. There is a meeting- house in this parish, belonging to the Relief body of Dissenters, another to the Moravians, and a third to the Methodists T.but the congregations of the two last are small, and that of the Relief is made up of people from six or eight parishes. There are various other Dissenters who have places of worship on the other side of the river, and numbers belonging to them in the parish of Ayr. The following tables, the result of a survey made in 1836, will exhibit in one distinct view, the population belonging to the Established Church, and also to the Dissenting denominations. No. 1. — Abstract of the Population, &c. &c. of the Royal Burgh of Ayr, within the Toll-bars— 1836. Population, Commuulcantt. Under 12, . . . 2903 Establishment, . . 1685 Establishment, . .. 4136 Other Denominations, . 910 Other denominations, . 2011 Sittingty 2444 Not knoi^n to belong to any deno- minations, . . 93 Having a right to sittings, . 2444 No. II. — Abstract of Population and Religious Denominations, with the number of individuals belonging to each, in the parish of Ayr— 1836. PoptiUition. Reformed Presbyterians, 60 Establishment, . 4968 United Secession Church, . 264 Other Denominations, . 2424 Associate Original Seceders, 286 Not Icnovn to belong to any deno- Relief, . . 1144 mination, . 93 Scottish Epis. Communion* 1 98 »■.• Roman Catholics, . 203 Total, . 747S Indepen. Congregational Union B9 Methodists, . 140 Moraviaris, . • 85 Universal ists, . 7 Baptists, . • . 1 Parish Churches of Ayr, 1794 Maybole, Newton, 251 St Evox, Dalrymple, 15 Kirkmichael, 2 70 AYRSHIRE. No. III. — Abstract of the number of Communicants belonging to the Establishment, in the parish of Ayr, and the parish churches in which they do co/nmunicate. 2 • .ad Total, . 2069 The stipend of the first charge consists of eight chalders and a-half, half meal, and half bear, and one-half chalder for com- munion elements. The incumbent has, besides, the half of the yearly interest of L. 1000, bequeathed to the two ministers of Ayr, by John Fergusson, Esq. of Doonholm, and the half of the sti- pend of Allowa^, amounting to L. 16 odds yearly. He has a com- fortable manse, which was built a few years ago, after a long and tedious litigation with the magistrates and heritors to obtain it, which cost a very large amount of expenses, and which was de- cided ultimately in his favour by the House of Lords. The sti- pend of the second minister is made up partly of the old stipend of the second charge, partly of a sum from the Government Bounty, and partly of an allowance from the magistrates for extra service, and the half of the above-mentioned bequest, together with L. 46, 13s. 4d. in lieu of a manse and glebe. The ordinary collections at the church doors amount to upwards of L. 100 an- nually; and the extraordinary, to nearly as much, including contri- butions made every winter for coals to the poor, and money re- ceived for them at the two sacraments. The ordinary collections are diminishing gradually every year, in consequence of the high rate of assessment There are a Bible, Missionary, Tract, Tem- perance, Sabbath School, and Female Benevolent Society in the town ; but the amount of their funds, individually or collectively, cannot easily be ascertained. We have occasional collections in the parish churches for objects of Christian benevolence, such as the General Assembly's Schools in the Highlands, the Church of Scotland Mission in India, and additional Church accommo- dation, which may increase our extraordinary collections to a larger sum annually than we have stated it above ; but the for- mer is regular, the latter only contingent. Our churches are both situated in the town, and are convenient enough for the great body of the people, though some miles distant from the furthest boun- dary of the parish. Education — Academy. — There are few places better provided with the means of education than Ayr. In 1798, the parochial AYR. 71 schools of the burgh were formed into an academy, and a charter obtained from the King, uniting the managers and directors into one body corporate, with power to enact laws for their own re- gulation. What formed the germ of this institution was the sum of L. 1000, which was bequeathed for behoof of the pub- lic teachers of Ayr, by Mr Fergusson of Doonholm, already mentioned. A considerable sum additional was obtained by sub- scriptions from the town, the heritors, and Tarious wealthy indivi- duals in the county and elsewhere, every L. 50 constituting the contributor a director of the academy. By means of these sums, a handsome building was erected for teachers' apartments, and a fund formed for the payment of their salaries, and the sup- port of the seminary. Its success has fully equalled the most sanguine expectations that were formed of it. It has secured a re- putation not surpassed by that of any other institution of the kind in Scotland. The teaching department is conducted by a rector, and five other principal teachers, besides an assistant in the Eng- lish school The rector has a salary of L. 100 a year ; the other masters have small salaries, the highest not exceeding L. 22, and depend chiefly for their emoluments on fees from their pu- pils. These fees vary from five shillings to a guinea a quarter, but few of the branches taught exceed half a guinea, and the most common are only charged at the lowest rate we have named. The following is a list of the branches of education in the dif- ferent departments, viz. mathematics, natural philosophy, che- mistry, geography, natural history, English composition, modern languages, Latin and Greek, writing and drawing, arithmetic, - book-keeping, and navigation, and English, English grammar, and history. The numbers that attend the academy in the course of each year average about 500, and this average has continued pret- ty uniform for many years back, notwithstanding that similar in- stitutions have greatly increased throughout the country, and even in towns not far distant The teachers are gentlemen of distin- guished talents and attainments, — they live and act together in great harmony ; and the seminary, being under a liberal system of management, has generally continued, since its commencement, in a prosperous and efficient state. It has been of great benefit to the town in different ways, — ^for instance, by attracting families to reside in it for education, and by transfusing a spirit of intelli- gence and enlightened thinking among its inhabitants. There are about a dozen of other schools in the parish besides 72 AYRSHIRE. the Academy, at all of which the numbers taught yearly may amount to betwixt 600 and 700. The teachers of all of these, with the exception of Smith's Institution, depend entirely on school fees for their emolument, and chiefly the common branches of education are taught in them. There are also two private schools for the country part of the parish ; and none of the inha- bitants are so far distant from school as to be excluded from the benefit of education. There are few, if any, of the native popu** lation who cannot read ; and parents are attentive enough to have their children educated, with the exception, perhaps, as we have said, of some of the poorer class of Irish labourers, who have not been educated themselves, and who are in a very degraded state as to civilization. With the numbers, then, attending the Aca- demy and the other schools in the town, taken collectively, we have thus an average amount of upwards of 1 100 in the course of re- ceiving education from year to year, making a proportion of betwixt a sixth and a seventh part of the population, and, we presume, there are but few other parishes now in Scotland that can boast of a greater proportion. Libraries. — There are two circulating libraries in the town, one of which is conducted on rather an extensive and liberal scale, as there are admitted into it, not only novels, but also the more popular and fashionable productions of the day, besides the stan- dard periodical works. We have also a pretty extensive town li- brary, containing a very good selection of books of standard merit, amounting to 3000 volumes. The terms of admission, however, are too high to render it so generally useful as it niight have been to the inhabitants. Until of late, the fixed entry- money was L. 5. It is now reduced to L. 3, which is still too high a rate for laying it open to the public. The consequence has been, that the num- ber of its members, viz. 108, has remained nearly the same at this day as when it received its charter from the town in 1803. It was intended originally as a library for a select society of gentlemen, who commenced it so far back as 1762, and it has continued pretty much so ever since. We do not find fault with this, but with the bad policy of the system, and its having been so long shut up from more general access. Had the admission money been L. 1, in all probability it would have contained five or six times the amount of books that it does at present, besides being, to an equal extent, a greater public benefit. It would be easy to establish this by the history of other public 3 AYR. 73 libraries. This affords one instance among many, that when an institution sets out at first on a wrong principle, it is ex- ceedingly difficult afterwards to get it rectified. Newspapers. — There are two county newspapers published week- ly in Ayr ; the one on Thursday, the other on Tuesday. The Advertiser is of long standing, and of Whig politics; the Ob- server is Conservative, though conducted in a very moderate and judicious manner. They both appear to thrive, as they circulate over a very extensive and populous district, which contains a people much given to reading. — We have also a handsome well-lighted reading-room, where newspapers and periodicals* are to be found in abundance, suited to all tastes and opinions, and where the ut- most order and quietness are maintained. Mechanic^ InstitutioTU — The observation we lately made in re- gard to the town library has received a forcible exemplification from the progress of that of the mechanics. It was only instituted in 1825, and since that time it has been rapidly increasing, both in extent and utility. It contains already 2500 volumes of well- selected books, nearly as many as the other, and has from 150 to 200 members. These pay only six shillings a year each, thus forming a fund for the purchase of new publications, of upwards of L. 40 per annum. The library has been greatly augmented of late, by liberal donations from private individuals. Lectures on scientific subjects are occasionally delivered to the mechanics, and they probably would be continued in a more regular and systema- tic form, were it not for the want of a suitable lecture-room. We trust this may soon be found, for the benefit of this useful and re- spectable class of our fellow-townsmen, and the success of their very laudable institution. Charitable Institutions — Poor's House, — There is a poor's house or hospital jn the town, which was built in the year 1759, with sums contributed by the magistrates and other public bodies. It is stated in the last Statistical Account, that, at the time when it was built, it was capable of accommodating about sixty inmates, young and old. The number now admitted into it seldom exceeds twenty- five, and is commonly about twenty. These consist of persons not merely destitute, but entirely unable to take care of themselves, and who, but for this establishment, would require to be entrusted to the charge of nurses, at an expense additional to their aliment. Were it not on this account, it would be of little use to the town for behoof of the poor, as the latter prefer living in houses of their 74 ARYRSHIRE. own on a fixed rate of aliment, and every inmate in the house costs on an average 2s. 6d. per week, which exceeds the average allowance to out-door pensioners. There is a master and mistress, who have apartments provided for them in the institution, besides a fixed salary of Li.dO to the former, who act43 also as clerk to the directors; and L.20 to the latter, yearly. And a large un- occupied room, not now required for the poor, is used as a school at present, for the instruction of the children attending Smith's Institution, where the children of paupers are taught gratis. Management of the Poor. — The directors of this establishment (the poor's house) having now become the managers of the poor generally of the town and parish, it may be proper to explain brief- ly the nature of the constituency, and its mode of working, in or- der to enable strangers to form some idea as to how the poor are regulated and provided for in Ayr. At the time when the poor's house was built, and for a long time after, its directors, and the kirk-session, formed two separate bodies, each having a list of poor to provide for from different iunds. Those of the session were de- rived from the weekly church collections, the rent of the farm of Session-field, and the emoluments arising from some mortifications. Those of the poor's house • managers consisted of an annual con- tribution from the different corporate bodies which they represent- ed, and a small yearly assessment on the inhabitants. This mode of providing for the poor, by the agency of two distinct parties, came to be exceedingly inconvenient and liable to abuses, as it oflen happened that paupers received aliment from both, without the knowledge of either. Accordingly, about twenty years ago, in making some necessary reforms on the poor's house establish- ment, it was deemed expedient to unite both bodies, with their re- spective funds, under one common interest and system of manage- ment ; which was done by constituting the whole members of the kirk-session poor's house directors, and appointing a joint treasur- er to receive their united funds. The session, in addition to the two ministers, consists of upwards of twenty elders, who have each a district of the town allotted to his superintendence. The di- rectors of the poor's house, before the junction, consisted of nine from the town-council, eight from the incorporated trades, the sailors, merchants, and writers, sending three each, making in all twenty-six. To this number have been added, besides the session, all the landed proprietors of the parish whose rental yearly amounts to L.50 and upwards, of whom there are about twelve, — thus form- aVr. 75 ing a constituency in toto of about sixty members, to whom the management of the poor is entrusted. These hold their ordinary meetings once a quarter, to determine on applications from paupers, and transact any other business that may occur. There is besides a standing committee for conducting the minor details of business. A superintendent of poor with a fixed salary acts under the direc- tors, to investigate and report as to every petition for aliment, which must have the sanction and signature of the elder of the quarter to which the petitioner belongs, to scrutinize the claims of every pauper, to conduct the correspondence respecting doubtful or dis- puted cases, and to direct the officers employed in the suppression of begging. Poor's Funds. — The funds for the support of the poor are made up of the collections received at the two churches (after deducting the necessary expenses of the session,) the annual rent of the farm of Sessionfield, interest on mortifications, sixty-four bolls of meal, — the proceeds of a purchase made long ago by the magistrates, -and gifted to the poor^s house, — and a general assessment on the inhabi- tants, proportioned to their means. The meal above-mentioned is derived from certain lands on the estate of Fullarton, and arose out of the endowment granted by King Robert Bruce to the support of the hospital of Kincase or Kingscase, in the vicinity of Ayr, erected by him for the reception and cure of lepers, a disease which appears to have been prevalent in his time. After the cessation of the establishment, the endowment had fallen into the possession of the Wallaces of Craigie, and was purchased at a judicial sale by Mr Richard Campbell, writer in Edinburgh. By him it was sold with all its rights and perquisites to the magistrates of Ayr in 1786, for L. 300, with the royal charter and disposition in right thereof, and by them the meal was made over to the poor's house, — they, how- ever, securing to themselves in virtue of it, the privilege of nomi- nating a certain number of inmates to be supported in that institu- tion, or rather the purchase being coupled with this provision. The expenditure for the poor last year amounted to L. 1064, 7s. 8d. and the income to L. 1 100. The number of regular out- pensioners on the roll amounts to about 300, of whom by far the greater pro- portion consists of women and children. The allowance granted to each varies from 6d. to 3s. weekly. The disease of cholera was very severe while it lasted in this town, not only in regard to the numbers who fell victims to it, but in its effects afterwards, which are still felt at this day, because many were made widows and 4 ^6 AVfisHlRE. orphans, left destitute and helpless, and rendered a heavy bur- den on the parish. The expenses of the Board of Health, dur- ing its prevalence, amounted to L. 742, 3s. of which L. 165, Ids. were raised by subscription, and L. 576, 10s. by an extra assess- ment. In addition to this, the ordinary assessment for the year that followed was necessarily raised from L. 570 to L. 950, and al- though some reduction has taken place of this heavy burden, yet the directors have never been able, with their utmost efforts, to bring it back to any thing near to what it previously was. It may possibly be thought by some, from the system of directorship which we have exhibited above, that we have deviated too much from Scotch parochial simplicity in our management of the poor, and that the machinery is too complex to admit of vigorous efficiency. Whether it be so or not, we shall not take upon us to decide, but it is proper to mention, that all who have a share in this manage- ment are alike anxious to lessen the evil and the grievous burden which pauperism has entailed on this parish. The following state will exhibit in one view the progress of the assessment since the be- ginning of the present century ; and we shall mention only the years when any alteration took place. 1802, - L. 124 1808. - L. 250 1831, - L.670 1837, - L. 850 1803. - 120 181(i, - 275 1833, - 950 1806, - 1.50 1818, - 450 1834, - 650 1807, - 130 1827, - 470 1835, - 800 DispeTisary. — This very useful institution was formed in the year 1817, and it has proved a blessing to many thousands of the poor of the community, by administering medical advice and relief gratuitously to all labouring under disease, or requiring surgical aid, whose means could not enable them to pay the usual fees of a medical practitioner. In fact, it may be regarded as the most beneficial establishment of the place. Upwards of 500 yearly are enrolled on the list of its patients — every subscriber to the amount of 5s. annually being entitled to recommend one to participate of its benefits. It comprehends within its sphere the three parishes of Ayr, Newton, and Wallacetown, and it has been hitherto sup- ported wholly by voluntary contributions. The average expendi- ture amounts to more than L. 100 a-year, but this has as yet been met by the income arising from subscriptions and donations ; and so sensible are the community in general of its usefulness, that an extension of their liberality could doubtless be easily procured to supply any deficiency of fiinds. Five medical gentlemen in Ayr at present officiate as surgeons ; and the whole of the three parishes AYR. 77 have been divided into five districts, each taking the charge q( one of these in rotation for a year. Cow-pox inoculation is perform- ed at all times at the dispensary-house ; and such of the patients as cannot attend there are waited on at their own houses by the surgeon of their district. It is in contemplation to add to it a medical hospital, and a considerable sum has been subscribed for this purpose. It is hoped that, ere long, this intention may be realized. Smith's Institutioru — This is another of the very useful chari- table establishments of the town. The following is shortly its his- tory. About twenty years ago, a school was instituted for the edu- cation of poor children, according to the system of Bell and Lan- caster, and a list of annual contributors was obtained for its sup- port. A teacher was accordingly appointed, and the seminary throve as well as could have been expected. This, however, was superseded a few years ago by the bequest of a Captain Smith of this place, who, after leaving certain legacies, de- voted the residue of a small fortune, which he had acquired as a tiaariner, to the humane purpose of benefiting the poor of Ayr, by affording them the means of education to their children. As the provisions of his will to this effect embraced exactly the objects which the subscribers had in view by the Lancasterian school, the proceeds of the bequest, amounting to about L. 2000, were dedi- cated to the support of said school uuder a new name, viz. Smith's Institution^ and the former subscriptions were discontinued. The ma- . gistrates and ministers are appointed trustees ; and they meet once a quarter to inspect the school, and transact any business that may occur connected with it. The number of those constantly attending the seminary amounts to from 150 to 200, and of those who receive instruction in it in the course of the year, to about 250. Such as are unable to pay are admitted gratis. The rest pay at the rate of a penny a-week. The school, as we have said, is taught in the poor's-house ; but it is in contemplation to erect a separate build- ing in some convenient situation, for a teaching-room. There is also a School of Industry ^ for teaching young girls sew- ing and other simple qualifications, for fitting them to become use- ful domestic servants. About 50 of the poorer class are instruct- ed in this manner, many of whom are receiving their education at the same time at Smith's Institution ; and, we believe, the pro- duce of tiieir work is sufficient to support the school. Savings Bank, — In 1815. a Saving's Bank was instituted by a 78 AYRSHIRE. few iufluential gentlemen in this town, for the parishes of Ayr, Newton, and that populous district of St Quivox, named Wallace- town, which has now been erected into a separate parish by itself. The same plan was adopted as that laid down by the Rev. Dr Duncan, the original inventor, and the undertaking was brought to a successful issue by the indefatigable exertions of Mr Cowan, banker, then Provost of Ayr. A subscription was obtained of up- wards of L. 400, of which only two and a half per cent, was col- lected, to provide for expenses, and the remainder, which was never called for, stood over as a fund for the security of the establish- ment The subscribers only were made eligible as directors, and the depositors themselves have been excluded from all share in the management The bank is open once a week, viz. every Monday morning, to receive any sums that may be offered from Is. to L. 10. When the deposits reach this last sum, the contributor is obliged to withdraw his money and dispose of it elsewhere. The number of open accounts is at present 700, and the sum due by the bank is L. 3320. In 1822, there were only 358 open accounts, and the sum annually deposited continued, with little variation, at about L. 1100 per annum for twelve years, when, in 1828, there was an increase to L. 1 700 per annum of deposits, and of ninety additional open accounts.^ Since that period, the deposits and ac- count!^ stand as follows : Yeart, 1829, 1830, 1831, 1832, 1833, lau 1835, 1836, The total number of accounts opened since the commencement of this bank to this date is 3613, and the total amount of money paid in small sums is, L. 30,017, 14s. 3d., which may be regarded as an ex- cess of labour and of wages above what is required for the conveni- ences and necessaries of life. It is impossible to estimate to their full extent the great moral as well as temporal benefits that are calculat- ed to accrue to the labouring classes from such an institution as this, of which, as above, they appear to avail themselves so exten- sively. A great proportion of the depositors consists of apprentices and servant girls, who are thus inured to habits of economy, pru- dence, and foresight, while they lay up in store besides, a small fund, which they will find of incalculable advantage for their future Depotits. Accoimti. L.1844 524 16% 535 1.536 526 1533 511 1785 564 1738 559 2325 604 2686 684 AYR. 79 establishmeDt in life, either in the way of marriage or of trade. A person who carefully manages his savings in this way, will general- ly be found to stand aloof from those thoughtless follies and ex- cesses which prove hurtful to so many of the young, on their setting out in the world ; and he will run no great risk of falling into improvident indigence in old age, and thereby becoming a burden on his friends or the public We look upon savings banks as of far more advantage to the lower orders than benefit societies, as the latter often fall into decay from want of proper calculation of their resources, and the pressure of demands that are liable to be made upon them by coutingencies of sickness, against which they sometimes become unable to provide. The former, however, are as steady and secure as any regular bank, and the money sav- ed in this way is always available at pleasure. The interest allow- ed to money deposited in the Ayr savings bank, has varied at dif- ferent periods. The bank of Messrs Hunters and Co. in which it is lodged, allows one-half per cent, more than the current interest. Formerly it was at the rate of 6d. for every 12s.; lately, it has been reduced to 6d. for every L. 1, or two and a- half per cent annually. In 1820 its rules received the approval of the general sessions of the county of Ayr, in terms of the act of Parliament passed anent savings banks in Scotland, which entitled this bank to certain privileges. In terms of the act, they can lend their funds in bond without stamps, and are not subject to any ad- vertisement duty. The directors, however, have never as yet availed themselves of these privileges. Friendly Societies, — Various societies of this description have long existed here, and, notwithstanding the decay and dissolution of several, they still continue to keep their ground, and new ones start up as others disappear. The general principle on which they are all founded is, that every member, by contributing a small pittance of his earnings weekly, while in health and able to work, shall be entitled, during temporary sickness or old age, to have a fixed weekly allowance. This allowance is greater or smaller in different societies, according to the rate of their contributions ; but we fear there is something necessarily unfixed and liable to prove deceptive, as regards them all, in consequence of their be- ing so much dependent on circumstances that are, and always must be, contingent. Insurance upon lives can be reduced to a pretty accurate standard, by calculations on mortality on a large scale, but it is quite a different thing to form a fixed and ac- 80 AYRSHIRE. curate estimate in regard to temporary disease on a small scale, its extent of prevalence, and length of duration. Let us take as instances the disease of cholera and that of influenza, whose wide- spreading ravages over the whole community will long be remem- bered ; — though the latter is not to be compared to the former in point of destructiveness, yet, as being more recent, it is at pre- sent more impressive. Who could possibly foresee the prevalence of these, or form any calculation as to their eflects, and yet the stability of friendly societies depends much on such contingencies. If their funds are large, and well economized by a continuance of general good health among the members, they may be able to keep their ground, but this would hardly be possible with limited re- sources, and a great proportion of the contributors reduced to the necessity of requiring weekly aliment Accordingly, such seasons of pressure have, from time to time, upset numbers; but that they are not so fluctuating as might be supposed, may be seen from the following list of those now existing for the parishes of Ayr, New- ton, and Wallacetown, exhibiting the dates of their commencement, and the sums they have respectively disbursed. Name. Origin. Duibursed. Name. Origin. IMabursetk Mutual Support, 1796, L. 1261 Hand in Hand, 1817, L. 523 Friendly, 1803, . 1856 Generous, 1821, . 904 Philanthropic, 1805, Caledonian, 1807, Caledonian Youth, 1809, Harmonious, 1811, Friendship, 1817, Unanimous, 1817, There are also several Female Societies in Ayr, conducted on the same principle, and among the rest we may notice that called Lady CrawforcTs, of long standing, and which has done a great deal of good among indigent females. It derived its name from the Ooun- tess of Crawford, by whom it was instituted. Since 1805 the total sum paid in was - L. 1923 19 10 Total paid out to sick members, • - L. 1741 4 Total expense of management, . - 82 4 7 Sum in the bank, - - - - 100 11 3 1459 Self-supporting, 1824, . 659 1226 PhcEuix, 1827, . 719 957 Protector, 1830, . 207 1886 Reform Friendly, 1833, 153 990 The Relief, 1836, . 8 930 L. 1923 19 10 The society consists partly of honorary and partly of general members, — the former paying a small sum yearly without any prospect of a return, — the latter so much per quarter, and receiv- ing a certain allowance weekly in sickness or old age. One member was on the funds betwixt fifteen and sixteen years, and received L. 120, Is. 6d. Had it not been for the charity of certain influential persons, it probably would have been long ere now extinct There AYR. 8 1 is another Female Friendly Society in the town, of the manage- ment of which several respectable ladies take a charge, who endea- vour to render it as safe and useful as possible : it is conducted in a mode similar to the above. Charitable Bequests. — We have already said that AyrTibounds, above most other places, in posthumous benefactions to the poor, and this, the following list of charities of this description will am- ply testify. Ist^ The first in point of importance as well as extent we have noticed under another head, namely, the sum of fully L. 2(M)0 bequeathed by Captain Smith, for the education of poor children, and which is applied to the support of Smith's school. 2if, The late Mr Paterson of Ayr, who made a large fortune in the West Indies, left the sum of L. 500 to Glasgow Infirmary, and, in virtue of this bequest, conferred upon Ayr kirk-session the important privilege of having four patients belonging to the parish constantly on the listsof that useful establishment. d(f, A Mr Smith, aldermanof Londonderry in 1692, bequeathed to the poorof the town of Ayr, his native place, L. 100, to be placed under the management of the magistrates and kirk-session, and this sum having been vested in land in the vicinity of the burgh, has come to be of great value in feus, and yields a revenue yearly of L. 55, which is divided about New- Year's day, apart from the poor's funds of the parish. 4th, A Mr James Dick of this place, a few years ago, left L. 900, the interest of which to be distributed by the same managers, in a mode exactly similar to that of Alderman Smith's charity, and the two are generally divided simultaneously. 5/A, Sir Robert Blackwood, mer- chant in Edinburgh, but a native of Ayr, in the year 1711, left the farm of Rodingroiod, now called Sessionfield, consisting of up- wards of 100 acres, to the guardianship of the ministers and kirk-session of this parish, for behoof of the poor, and the annual rent to be distributed every year to poor householders, in the same, way as the two former bequests. 6^A, In 1811, Lady John Camp- bell bequeathed, by will, the sum of L. 1200, the interest of which to be given to poor childless widows belonging to the parishes of Ayr and Monkton, under the charge of their respective sessions, and, by a subsequent deed, two-thirds of the proceeds are to be ap- portioned to Ayr. This bequest does not come into operation till after the death of a lady who now enjoys it in liferent. Ith, The same is the case with respect to another bequest of L. 1000, made a few years ago, by Mrs Crawford of Ardmillan, in favour of re- duced females who had seen better days, and whose delicacy would AYR. F 82 AYRSHIRE. not permit them to let their wants \>e publicly known. The ma«* gistrates and council are appointed joint trustees with the session, but the latter are to have the disbursement of it 8^A, In 1831, Captain Robert Tennant, a residenter in Ayr, left L. 300, un- der the guardianship of the ministers and session, the interest of which to be applied for behoof of the Poor's House. 9tky Miss Ballantine, of Castlehill, bequeathed, at her death, a short time ago, the sum of L. 1000, or the interest of such a sum as shall yield L. 5 a-year to ten poor females of the parish, appointing the magistrates, ministers^ the Sheriff-substitute of the county, and the rector of the academy, to be the trustees and patrons. lO^A, and finally, John Fergusson, Esq. of Doonholm, already mentioned, not only bequeathed L. 1000 for the benefit of the ministers, and an- other for that of the teachers; he also left L. 1000 for behoof of the poor of Ayr, the interest of which is paid yearly to the treasurer of the Poor's House. Besides the above, the interests of several smaller bequests of from L. 300 to L. 100 each, are at present held dur- ing life by poor female householders of the place, under the direc- torships generally, of the magistrates and ministers, each vacancy being filled up as it occurs by the death of the former holder. We may add to ail this^ that about 300 of the poor or upwards are sup- plied every winter with a cart of coals each, provided by a collec- tion at the two churches, the proceeds of which, by use and wont, and the steady benevolence of the community, may be counted on as regularly as those of any of the bequests above-mentioned. Further^ the elder of every district of the town has a discretionary power to advance small sums of money, by orders on the treasurer, in cases of temporary exigency that may occur, such orders being submitted to the directors at each quarterly meeting, and these in the course of each year amount to betwixt L. 40 and L. 50, in ad- dition to the stated weekly aliment of the paupers. And over and abov€j the directors themselves, at their stated meetings, award small temporary grants, in the way of money, shoes, clothes, rent, &c to an amount, perhaps, nearly as large, to ward off craved addi- tions to aliment already fixed, or prevent applicants from being put for the first time upon the poor's roll. Now, when all the above state- ments are considered, and viewed in connexion with the annual pa- rochial provision for the poor by regular aliment, amounting to up- wards of L. 1000, it surely cannot fail to be admitted that charity is dispensed in Ayr with no niggardly hand. AYR. 83 Ayr GaoL — The prison was built at the same time with the county buildings already described ; and in its construction every attention has been paid to the security of the prisoners, while its situation is remarkably favourable to their health, as it stands on a large open space by the sea-beach. Within the last twelve- months, an entire change has been effected with respect to the treatment and discipline of the criminals confined. We may class them all under the designation of criminals, there being none at present confined for debt. The debtor's wing is now appropriated to female culprits. Formerly, the prisoners were allowed to spend the day together — the males in one common apartment or day- room, and the females in another, in total idleness ; wherein, by in- tercommunion of evil speech and depraved passions, they were ren- dered more wicked and profligate than ever, and incarceration made them worse, instead of reforming them. The younger culprits, too, were thus initiated into all the mystery and artifice of crime, by those who had been accustomed to follow it as a trade. Now, however, all this is happily at an end. Each prisoner is confined to a separate cell, and all are kept at hard labour for twelve or fourteen hours a day, without having any opportunity of seeing one another, even at their meals, which they receive alone at the pe- riods prescribed. The prison is visited by the keeper, and the prisoners are set to work at six o'clock in the morning ; and it is regularly shut at eight every night fpr rest, and agadnst the admis- sion of visitors. The prisoners are compelled to wash once every day ; and their apartments are kept regularly clean and well-aired. Such of them as have not learned any trade are generally taught weav- ing, which they soon learn if young, and if old, they are employed in teasing old ship ropes into shreds, called ooAtim, which is used by ship-builders as wadding for closing the interstices of vessels. None are allowed to remain idle. A regular account is kept of their earn- ings, and the expense of their diet ; and on leaving gaol, if they have behaved well, the balance in their favour is given to them as a reward, but at the discretion of the prisoii committee, on the report of the keeper. A chaplain attends the male prisoners, in their separate cells, three times a-week, where he passes a portion of time in communicating religious instruction, and joining in a short prayer ; and each is furnished with a Bible. Such of them as cannot read, he puts in the way of learning to do so, and aids them in their attempts. In short, the whole system is under most excel- 84 AYRSHIRE. lent regulation, and we are enabled to say so confidently, and to give the above details from personal inspection. It is visited weekly by a small committee of the gaol directors, who undertake this duty in rotation, and generally record a written report in a book kept for the purpose, as to the state in which matters are found The two impor- tant objects of incarceration seem to be fully accomplished in this gaol, namely, reformation and punishment combined. As the du- ties of the chaplain are most important, it would be desirable that he were made strictly responsible, not to the magistrates merely but to the county, and had a'more liberal remuneration allowed. We have been the more minute in describing this amelioration in prison-discipline, as it is most important to the public, who, we believe, have been much indebted for the change to Mr Charles Fergusson, Younger of Kilkerran, and Mr Archibald Hamilton at Rozelle — gentlemen as eminent for their personal worth, as for their spirited exertions for the public good. Commitments for the last three months, ending January 18S7, 60 Remained in gaolin Ootober 1896, .... 22 Prisoners in aU, Liberated daring the three months, • ... 66 Remaining in gaol in January last, of these 13 were males, 3 females', 16 Average number of criminal prisoners daily, • . 172^ Greatest number at one time during last three months, 29 Smallest number during three months, ending January, 13 At present in prison, 16 males, 6 females, ... 21 The average proportion of female to male prisoners is scarcely one-third. The prevailing crime of the former is thefl, — that of the latter theft or assault The number of commitments seems to be decreasing, and no capital convictions have taken place at our Circuit Courts for many years past. Fairs, Spirit^hopSf Fuel. — There are four fairs held in Ayr in the course of the year, and two market-days weekly, viz. Tues- day and Friday. The number of licensed spirit-retailers is 106, or one to about every 70 or 80 of the population. Coal for fuel is to be got in abundance, of good quality, and at no great dis- tance, but it is rather high priced, costing from 1 Is. to 14s. per ton^ including carting. Concluding Remarks. Ayr has undergone great and important ameliorations since the last Statistical Account was published, and if it go on improving in the same ratio for the next thirty years, it is impossible to estimate the degree of comparative importance to which it may arrive among AVR. 85 the other provincial towns of Scotland. There are two material amendments which it obviously admits of and requires. We would recommend, ^r«/, a rigid and uncompromising revision of the whole system of management of the poor. The amount of money an- nually expended for their support, besides being beyond all due bounds, as compared with other parishes, and entailing a heavy burden on the community, is tending every year to the increase of pauperism, and, what is worse, to injure materially the civil and moral condition of those who are verging on this state. ' We would suggest a scrupulous inquiry as to how far the numerous charities and mortifications with which the town abounds, might be made in some way available for the support of the poor, instead of being entirely supplementary, as at present, to their parochial aliment. Another beneficial change, that would add greatly to the prospe- rity of Ayr, is the introduction, to a greater extent, of manufactures and other public works. There is no want of capital, nor yet of enterprise, for this purpose, and only a few examples of successful speculation in this way are all that is required to stimulate their practical application. The projected rail-road betwixt Ayr and Glasgow will doubtless give an impetus to trade and industrial enterprise every way, and effect improvements of every kind be- yond what it is possible at present to foresee or calculate. July 1837. Drawn up hy the Rev. Alexander CuthUU one of the Ministers of Ayr. PARISH OF NEWTON-UPON-AYR PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES STEVENSON, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History, Name, Boundariesy ifc, — The name of this parish is evidently derived from its situation on the banks of the Ayr, and the town's being founded at a later period than the adjacent county town. In the charters granted to the burgh, it is called Nova villa super Air, and sometimes Nova villa de Air. The same name was given originally to the town of Ayr ; but when another town arose on the north side of the river, the name became appropriated to it, as be^ ing the more modern. The parish is of very small extent : being only a mile and a half in length, and a mile in its greatest breadth. It is bounded on the north by the parish of Prestwick ; on the east by the pa- rishes of St Quivox and Wallacetown ; on the south by the river Ayr, separating it from the town and parish of Ayr ; and on the west by the Frith of Clyde. The figure of the parish is oblong ; being broadest about the middle, and narrowing at the northern and southern extremities. It is level throughout its whole extent, without any eminence to diversify the landscape. The whole length of the parish is washed by the Frith of Clyde. The coast is flat and sandy, terminating, however, at the north-west comer of the parish in an inconsiderable rocky point, which projects a little way into the sea. Meteorology. — A daily register of the winds having been kept for a long period at Cowan and Sloan's Office, agent for Lloyd's, we are enabled to present the following table of them for the years 1820, 1825, 1830, 1835, and 1836. We content ourselves with giving the annual results for the four former years ; but subjoin the prevailing winds for each month of 1836 :— NEWTON-UPON-AYR. 87 N. Directions of the wind. N. E. E. S. E. S- S, W, W. N.W. 1820, S5 29 36 37 36 80 76 38 182ft, 21 17 33 34 51 72 82 55 1830, 16 23 48 SO 39 97 58 53 1835, 12 13 49 45 12 105 80 49 Mean, 21 tM.5 41.5 36.5 1836 ■ • 34.5 88.5 73.75 4I U5 N. N. E. E. S. . E. S. S. W. W. N . W. January, "o 6 4 12 3 6 February, 1 1 7 2 12 4 2 March, 2 1 4 , 4 12 8 April, 4 1 4 1 1 11 5 3 May, 5 9 8 I 1 4 1 2 June, 2 4 2 7 13 2 July, 1 2 12 14 2 August, 1 2 2 1 14 8 3 September, 1 6 •6 1 3 6 4 5 October, 2 3 1 4 1 12 3 5 November, 1 3 I 3 8 8 6 December, 2 7 6 I 6 7 2 18 82 46 31 43 26 13 107 Unfortunately no register of the height of the barometer has been kept since 1820. Its average height is given during the se- veral months of that and the two preceding years : I8ia 1819. 1820. January, 29.2 29.85 30.1 February, 29.8 29.85 30.2 March, 29.7 29.95 30.15 April, 29.65 29.85 30.2 May, 30.5 30.15 29.9 June, 30.35 30.1 30.2 July, 30.25 30.3 30.2 August, 30.25 29.05 30.05 September, 29.45 30.15 30.15 October, 29.85 30.15 29.9 November, 29.65 30.05 29.9 December, 30.05 30. 30.2 Annual average, 29.88 29.95 30.09 It will be seen from the above tables, that the prevailing winds are the west and south-west ; and it may be remarked in general, that the westerly winds are warm and moist, and the easterly dry and cold. The heaviest gales are from the south-west, west, and north-west. The climate is mild when compared with that of the east coast; and, as might be inferred from the situation of the pa- rish, the temperature is more equal throughout the year than that of the inland districts, — the sea-breeze moderating the heat of summer and the cold of winter. On this account it forms a desi- rable residence for the invalid, who may suffer from either extreme^ 88 AYRSHIRE. The air is pure and bracing ; and there are few places where the blessing of health is enjoyed in a greater degree. No disease can be said more particularly to prevail, and many of the inhabitants attain to a good old age. Geology and Mineraloffy. — The whole parish is covered, imme*' diately below the soil, with beds of sand and gravel ; and beneath these, is a bed of clay, interspersed with . numerous water- worn stones, chiefly of augite-greenstono. On the surface of the clay, there are numerous boulder-stones of considerable size, which are also for the most part of the same rock* Be- low these beds of sand, gravel, and clay, are found those stra- tified rocks, known by the name of coal measures. The direction of the dip is to the north, and of course the rise is to the south. With these coal measures there is associated, at the southern boundary of the parish, a bed of trap-rock, more than twenty feet in thickness ; and about 1000 yards north from the river, there is found, immediately subjacent to it, a thin bed of coal, which it has entirely reduced to a very hard cinder. But between this point and the river, the trap suddenly changes its position, and is found on the top of a second bed of coal ten fathoms lower than the other, which has, in consequence, also been destroyed. This second coal is the uppermost of the liwo workable seams of coal known in this neighbourhood : and it is only in the situation now mentioned, that it has been found destroyed by the trap. It should also be noticed, that betwixt the northern and southern parts of the parish, there is a separation of the minerals by a slip or shift of the strata, which casts them up about sixty fathoms in the northern or dip direction. Each of the two workable beds of coal contained in the mineral field is nearly four feet in thickness. The upper is a soft coal : the second is very hard, and of the description called splint coaL The distance between the two beds is about twenty six fathoms, and the intervening strata are alternations of bituminous or aluminous shale and sandstone. But the uppermost of the two beds of coal is not found in the northern part of the parish, having been thrown out by the great shift of the strata already mentioned. The working of coal was formerly carried on to a great extent in this parish, and during a period of sixty years. At one time the profits of the freemen of the burgh from this source amounted to more than L. 300 per annum. But in 1832, the pits were closed : both seams of coal being then exhausted. Trials have been made at different times to discover, by boring, other beds of NEWTON-UPON-AYR. 89 coal below these seams; but although the boring was carried down in one instance to the depth of fifty fathoms beyond the low- est of the wrought seams, no bed of coal of sufficient thickness to admit of its being worked could be found : and the bore terminated in alternate layers of greenstone and redstone. There are at present no workings of minerals in the parish, with the exception of a sandstone or freestone quarry at its northern ex- tremity, which, although not long opened, is believed to contain a freestone bed of great thickness, and promises to afford a large sup- ply of building materials. On removing the sand and gravel from the surface of the rock, with which it is covered to the depth of fifteen feet, there were found numerous bones of animals and decayed pieces of wood ; and in one spot, close upon the freestone, a copper coin of the reign of Charles the Second, which, as the quarry is about 200 yards from high* water mark, seems to prove that there has been a progressive advancement of the coast upon the sea. There is one exception, however, to this remark, as applied to this parish, which must not be left unnoticed. While the land towards the north appears to be gaining on the sea, the sea, on the other band, has of late years been rapidly encroaching on the coast at the other end of the parish, immediately behind the harbour. This has been ascribed to the pier's being carried &rther out on the other side of the river than it has yet been on this side ; a supposition which is rendered the more probable by the circum- stance, that, while the sea is making encroachments on the north side of the river, it is proportionably receding on the south side. But whatever be the cause, several acres of land behind the pier in this parish, on which a row of houses stood within the last ten or twelve years, have been overflowed by the sea, and are now within high-water mark : so that it has even been' in contempla- tion to raise a mound along the shore to prevent the sea from further gaining on the town. As the surface of the greater part of the parish was originally a bed of barren sand, the soil naturally partakes of that character. It is now, however, in a rapid course of improvement ; and it has been improved, in many cases, by the admixture of a blue shale or till, of which great quantities were thrown out during the working of the coal-mines. Zoology — JRwAw.— Of these, great numbers are caught by the fishermen of this parish, and not less^than thirty different species have been reckoned up, which are commonly or^occasionaliy sold and used for food. The most valuable of these are the turbot. 90 AYRSHIRE. the sole, the halibut, and the shrimp. The most abundant are the whiting, haddock, cod-fish, ling, flounder, salmon, mackerel, skate, and herring. And those less frequently found are the mullet ( Mugil cephalus) ; horse-mackerel (Scomber trachunuj ; sun-fish^ which is very rare and little valued; pilchard (Clu^ pea pilchardusj ; lythe (Gadus poUachiusJy caught at the end of harvest by nets, and also by the fly ; and saith or cole-fish (Gadus carbonariusyj which is caught by lines as well as in nets. Besides these, the conger-eel, called by the fishermen have-eel (Mur€pna conger) is found in great abundance, but it is only of late years that it has been sold for food. The silver sole (Plat- ronectes Margaretta) is got in deep water, but it is now in small request Trout are also occasionally taken; and lobsters and crabs are caught, the former in great numbers. Of fishes which are not sold, the Portugal shark or sheer dog (Squcdus comubicus) is met with, particularly when fishes are abundant. The porpoise or pelliak (Delphinus phoaena) fol- lows the herrings, and is sometimes caught in the turbot nets : as does likewise the spout-whale or herring-hoy (Bahsnaphysahu^) which is supposed to live on the spawn or fry of the herring. Corse-foot or five- fingered star-fish (Asterea rvbens) are found in great abundance, sometimes on almost every hook of the fisher- men's lines. The kethick or sea-devil (Lophius piscatorius) is sometimes found of the weight of three or four stones. It is armed with sharp teeth, has a head disproportionately large, and is a most hideous-looking fish. The ink-fish (Sepia loligo) is plen- tiful, and employed as bait for skate-fish. It is well known to' derive its name from the dark inky kind of liquor which it dis- charges from its mouth, so as completely to blacken the water all around it. Botany. — In a parish of such limited extent, and with so little variety of soil, few rare plants can be expected to occur. It may, however, DO mentioned, that the Teesdalia nudicaulis^ Senebiera co^ ronopuSj Arabis vemoj and Arabia thaliana — all nearly allied to each other, both according to the natural and artificial classifica- tion, are here to be met with. The Sedum villostan, the Brassica monensis^ the Eryngium maritimum^ or sea holly, which is scarcely to be found except on the western coast ; and the Centunculus minimus (a very rare plant) are also found — the last mentioned on the northern confines of the parish. The Convolvulus Solda-- NEWTON-UPON-AYR. 91 nellay which is scarcely to be met with in another parish in the county, is here found growing in a small patch of ground amohg pure sand, within a little distance of the shore. 11. — Civil History. CoTuiitiUion of the Burgh. — The constitution of this burgh, particularly with regard to the property belonging to it, is very singular, and can only be paralleled by that of the neighbouring burgh of Prestwick. The date of its erection cannot be ascer- tained, as the original charter of its* creation has been lost. But it is traditionally ascribed to a grant by Robert the Bruce, in fa- vour of forty-eight of the inhabitants who had distinguished them- selves at the battle of Bannockburn in 1314. It is matter of his- tory that RoberX was present at the Parliament held at Ayr on the 26th April 1315, when the crown was settled on him and his descendants ; and it is certain, from documentary evidence, that the erection of the burgh and the territorial grant to the freemen, must have occurred between 1206-14, and 1446. All its previ- ously-existing privileges were, however, renewed and confirmed by a charter granted by James VI. dated in 1595; and by a second charter, granted by him in 1600 ; which proceed on the narrative of certain ancient writings and title-deeds having been exhibited to his Majesty respecting the original erection of the burgh, and of its former charters having been lost by reason of the wars and dissensions of the times. In these charters the lands of the parish, with the" whole privi- leges thereto attached, as the same had been enjoyed by their ancestors, are granted anew to the burgesses ; with power to grant feus, and divide among themselves the territorial possessions thus conveyed to them. They are also empowered to elect bailies, a treasurer, councillors, and other officers necessary for the govern- ment of the burgh. The number of freemen among whom the partition of the com-' mon property could be made, was, from the earliest times, limited to forty-eight, who were regarded as exclusively composing the community* Sons of burgesses, and failing sons, their sons-in-law, succeeded to the burgess-ship of their father, and to his portion of the lands, and other possessions of the burgh. But latterly, daughters have been admitted as well as sons, and other relations besides direct descendants, to inherit the rights of freedom ; and in certain cases the widows of freemen have been admitted to en- joy the life-rent of the lot or portion of lands, which belonged to 92 AYRSHIRE. their husbands. It would appear that the common property has been divided among the forty-eight freemen, from time to time, from the first erection of the burgh. But the first ^' dailP* or di- vision of which there is any record, took place in 1604, and was to subsist till 1615. Owing, however, to the want of entries in the community-book for a considerable period after this last date, we have no account of another ^^ daill" till 1655, which was also to subsist for eleven years. But from 1666 till 1771, a new par- tition was made every seven years, and the allotments made are regularly recorded. In this last mentioned year, in order to put an end to the evils which had been experienced from the short period of possession which they had heretofore enjoyed — the free- men resolved that the division which then fell to be made should continue for fifty-seven years. And, when this period expired in 1828) it was determined that the continuance of the lots which were then ballotted for should be for 999 years. In 1838^ it was farther agreed, that feu-rights of their lots should be granted to such of the freemen as might wish to hold their lands in that manner. The extent of the lots possessed by the freemen vary from six to ten acres, according to the quality of the land. Their value was formerly small. But since coal was discovered in the lands, and more particularly since their respective possessions were ren- dered more permanent, their value has greatly increased : and of thirty freedoms which have been sold within the last forty years, the prices have varied from L. 70 to L. 500. Newton is included within the parliamentary boundaries of the burgh of Ayr by the Reform Act, so as to form one constituen- cy with it in returning a Member to the House of Commons. No actual list of the L. 10 proprietors or occupiers has been taken, but there are 218 occupants of L. 5 yearly and Upwards, and it is computed that about 100 of these have tenements at or above L. 10 yearly. The council of the burgh consists of two bailies, one treasurer, and six councillors, who are annually elected by the freemen from among their own number. Although their powers are extensive, they have of late years only exercised jurisdiction in processes of sequestration for rent, and petty breaches of the peace; and even this limited jurisdiction is now seldom exercised. The constitu- tion of the burgh in this respect will be altered, and possibly may NEWTON-UPON-AYR. ■ 93 be extinguished, if the Municipal Corporations' Bill now depenaing before Parliament, pass into a law. Land-Oumers. — The freemen are proprietors of all the land in the parish, with the exception of ten acres. The greater part of the ground occupied by the town is also held in feu from them. William Forbes, Esq. -of Callendar, has the right of superiority over the main street : but the jurisdiction of the magistrates ex- tends to it, as well as to the other parts of the town. Surveys of the Parish. — Plans of the grounds belonging to the freemen have been repeatedly made. The latest was drawn up in 1829, by Mr James Milliken of Ayr. Parochial Registers. — These have been regularly kept since the erection of Newton into a separate parish, which took place in 1779. Antiquities. — Under this head mention may be made of a large building called Newton Castle, which formerly stood in Grarden Street, and was for a long period the seat of the Wallaces of Crai- gie. They removed to it from the Castle of Craigie (whose state- ly ruins may still be seen in the parish of that name) in the be- ginning of the sixteenth century, and continued to reside in this parish till Sir Thomas Wallace of Craigie, the fifth baronet, built "Craigie House, which stands on the north bank of the Ayr, a short way from the town. The writer has seen a view of Ayr, taken about 180 years ago, in which Newton House appears very prominent- ly — a castellated building of moderate height, surrounded by gar- dens and numerous trees. Beyond it, the houses of Newton are seen; apparently very humble dwellings, all thatched, and none of them exceeding the height of one storey. This old castle was taken down sixty or seventy years ago, and now there only remains part of the wall which enclosed the garden. Among its ruins, there was found an antique mathematical quadrant, and the barrel of an old gun, or rather wall-piece, seven feet long, and very heavy : both of which are preserved in the library belonging to the Ayr Mechanics' Institution; * Modem Buildings. — The only public buildings in the town are the parish church, a plain edifice, standing near to the site of Newton Castle, and behind the Council-house. The latter, which is an equally plain building, was erected forty years ago, and is sur- mounted by a steeple of no great height. The principal street in * Garden Street, in which Newton House ttood» was, a few years ago, transferred to St Quivoz, and is now included in the newly constituted parish of Wallacetown. d4 AYRSHIRE. the town is of considerable length, and about eighty feet in breadth ; but few of the houses in it can be said to be elegant Between it and the sea, a new town has arisen within the last thirty years, con- sisting of three or four streets, which are regularly laid out, but are as yet only partially built The town, after being stationary for a time in consequence of the ceasing of the coaUworks, is now extend-* ing* Two handsome villias have been recently built by freemen on their lands, and there is every reason to anticipate that their number will soon be greatly increased. III. — Population. At the Union, the population of the parish is supposed to have been under 400. In 1755, it is inferred from Dr Webster's re- port to have amounted to 581. In 1778, it had risen to 1600. In 1791, it was ascertained by an accurate survey, to amount to 1689, of which number there were 836 males, and 853 females. In 1801, the population was 1724 1811, - 2809 1821, - 4027 1881, 4020 In 1831, there were 1927 males, and 2093 females. The increase in the population between 1755 and 1778 was chiefly owing to an extensive herring-fishery, then carried on along this coast, particularly near the mouth of the Ayr. For some years after 1778, the number rather decreased, in consequence of the suspension of the coal> works. But on their being resumed in 1786, the population steadily increased, and between 1801 and 182] was more than doubled. After this last mentioned date, from the ceasing of the coal-works, and the removal of those employed in them to the neighbouring parishes, the number of inhabitants re- mained for a considerable time nearly stationary, and it is only very recently they have again begun to increase. The number of the population residing in the town is, - 8768 in the country, - . 252 The yearly average of births for the last seven years, - 104 marriages, - - - 42 burials witliin the parish,, - - 69 But a considerable proportion of those who die in the parish are interred in the grave-yards in Ayr and Wallacetown. The number of persons as ascertained by a late survey, under 15 yeai's of age is, - 1594 betwixt 15 and 30 - 1128 betwixt 30 and 50, - - 692 betwixt 50 and 70, - - 446 upwards of 70, - - 100 Number of unmarried men upwards of 50, - 21 unmarried women upwards of 45, - • 106 families according to census of 1891, - ^ 871 N E WTON-UPON-A YR. 95 Number of inhabited houses, - - 453 houses uninhabited or building, - 5 families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 4 trade, manufactures, &c. 448 The number of insane and fatuous persons is 3, of blind 3, and of deaf and dumb 2. The number of illegitimate birth? during the last three years is, as tiearly as can be ascertained, 36, being on an average 12 yearly. There are no proprietors of land in the parish of the value of L. 50 yearly. The average annual rent of the portion of land be- longing to a freeman will not exceed L. 12 or L. 13; and in only one or two instances are two such portions held by one individual; when the right of one freedom nominally belongs to a son or other relation. Character and Habits of the People, — There is not much that is distinctive in the character or manners of the inhabitants. The freemen were at one period somewhat rude and unpolished, and by no means noted for the decorum observed by them at their public convivial entertainments. They have even been accused of being ^^ below mediocrity in wealth, industry, intelligence, education, and respectability," — a charge for which, at the time when it was made, its author was certainly much more indebted to fancy than to fact. But, whatever may have been the case in former days, the freemen as a body are now highly respectable ; almost all of them are in comfortable circumstances; and a considerable pro- portion of their number much above mediocrity in wealth, educa- tion and intelligence. The fishermen are the most peculiar class of the inhabitants. Several of them are the descendants of a colony from Pitsligo and some places adjacent, which settled in this place sixty years ago. They were induced to do so from some of their number, who had been impressed on board a man«of-war, which was for a considera- ble time stationed in the Frith of Clyde, having observed that fishes were to be found on this coast in great abundance. The form of the fishermen's coats is a little singular : and until lately, their Sunday's dress consisted of home-made blue-cloth. They live, as might be supposed, to a considerable extent on fish ; and it is alleged are not so attentive as could be wished to cleanliness in their habits. But to this remark there are not a few honourable exceptions. Fish are here obtained so cheap, and excellent in quality, that they are a very common article of food. Beer was formerly a favourite beverage, and was taken by the fishermen in 96 AYRSHIRE. their boats in preference to whisky. But the number of brewers has of lat^ years declined ; and it is to be feared that, with the di- minished consumption of beer, ardent spirits are proportionably in greater request It is pleasing to have to state, that poaching is almost unknown. The same may be said of smuggling — and there is not a pawn- broking establishment in the town. . On the whole, it may be said, that, although few of the inhabi- tants are wealthy, the number of persons in extreme poverty is less than is commonly to be found in other communities of similar ex- tent An unusual proportion of families live in houses built by themselves ; and though the circumstances of many of them be humble, they are contented, and, comparatively speaking, comforta- ble. Instances of gross immorality are unfrequent And while it must be acknowledged that here, as in other parishes where the population has outgrown the means of church accommodation, not a few habitually absent themselves from public ordinances; the ge- neral character of even these is superior to what we might have been led to anticipate. No doubt much of this is owing to the . example of their church-going neighbours, who elevate that con- ventional standard of morality, below which it is reckoned disgrace- ful to fall. And, respecting the latter, it is proper to mention, that they have long been distinguished for a more than ordinary respect for religion and its ordinances ; and there is reason to believe, that there is not a small number among them who are imbued with the spirit of genuine piety, and live under the Influence of divine truth. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — The number of acres, standard imperial measure, in Uie parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage is, - - - - 336 The number of acres which are waste or in pasture, - - - 93 Number of acres which might be added to the cultiyated land of the parish, ^6 in a state of undlTided common, • - - .0 All the land belonging to the freemen is now divided, with the exception of eight acres reserved for a quarry. There are almost no trees in the parish ; nor is it easy to rear them, from want of sufficient shelter. And so long as the lands were common proper- ty, there was little inducement to any individual to expend money in plantations, which would soon fall to be possessed by another. This was, indeed, an insuperable obstacle to all kinds of improve- NEWTON-UPON'AYR. 97 ment. Nor is it matter of wonder that, while the land chang- ed possessors every seven years, little should have been done in in- closing fields, or meliorating the soil. But after the experience of centuries had at length convinced the freemen of the necessity of a change in this respect, and their tenures were first greatly extend- ed, and latterly rendered permanent, there was a complete revolu- tion in the rural economy of the parish. Land which had previ- ously been allowed to lie waste was brought under cultivation — rude turf-mounds gave place to thorn-hedges or substantial stone- walls, with which most of the fields are now enclosed — and so great- ly has the soil been improved, that from these and other causes, freedoms are more than ten times their value about forty years ago. Such has been the favourable result of a partial abandon- ment of the *' principles of equality and independence," of which, as is remarked in the appendix to the last Statistical Account, the constitution of this burgh affords one of the best exemplifications. JRent of Land* — The highest rent given for arable land is L. 5, per acre, but some of it will not yield more than 10s. The average rent may be stated at L. 1, 15s. The rent of grazing a cow is from L. 4 to L. 5. The greater part of the land is cultivated by the freemen themselves ; and it is somewhat singular that, in a pa^ fish where so many are more or less employed in agriculture, only one family is exclusively supported by farming. Fisheries. — With the exception of those employed in the salmon- fishery, who remain here for only a part of the year, all the fisher- men in the district reside in this parish. They are chiefly engag- ed in white-fishing. Seven boats are employed in it, and there are four men required for each boat About twenty years ago, their wages were 38. 6d. a day : now they have &llen to 2s. In- stead of fishing as they formerly did through the whole extent of the Frith, and even up Loch-Fyne, numbers of the Newton fisher- men have settled permanently at the various stations which they were wont only occasionally to visit. And those who remain have not merely their range of fishing circumscribed, but, being exclud- ed from the Glasgow market by the successful rivalry of their brethren on the Highland coasts, who have the advantage of more frequent and convenient communication by steam-boats with the western metropolis, they are now limited to the supplying of Ayr, and the neighbouring villages* The consequence is, that the fisher- men are generally poor, and are no longer the respectable class of men which they were in more prosperous days. AYR. G 98 AYRSHIRE. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce yeiu'ly raised in the parish is as follows: Produce of grain of all kinds, cuitiTated for the food of man or the domestic animab, . . . L. 488 Of potatoes and turnips, .... 202 Of hay, .... - 55 Of land in pasture, . . . . . 471 Of fisheries, estimated at . . 1050 Freestone quarry, ... . . 400 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 2666 Manufactures. — The most important of these are ship-building, rope and sail-making, iron and brass-founding, and smith-woriu Ship-building has for a long period been carried on at this har- bour. About thirty years ago, there were^not less than 200 men employed ; but it afterwards gradually declined till within the last ten years. It has of late been carried on to a considerable extent in the wood-yard of Messrs Cowan and Sloan. In 1 831, a pa- tent slip was erected by Mr Morton, the patentee : and since that time III vessels have been taken on and repaired, and nine new ones have been built, registering from 47 to 483 tons each. Some of these have been constructed by orders from shipowners in Qreenock, and one for the East India trade. Betwixt 40 and 50 hands are constantly employed, who work eight hours in winter and ten in summer, and earn from 18s. to L. 1, per week. In the rope and saiUwork, 10 hands are at present employed, whose weekly wages are from 12s. to 15s. It is worthy of remark, that af)«r great fluctuations of prosperity and depression in the interval, both of these branches of trade are, as nearly as may be, in the same state in which they were at the date of the last Statistical Account (1791) — there being then 50 men employed in shipbuild- ing, and 10 in manufacturing ropes. There are four foundries in which machinery of all kinds is ma- nufactured, and smith-work executed : but none of them are on an extensive scale. The working hours are ten per day; 34 men and 14 boys are at present employed; and the average weekly wages are, for men, 16s. and for boys 5s. There is also a salt-work, containing two pans, in which salt is made chiefly from the rock imported from Liverpool. Five men are employed in it, whose wages are 10s. 6d. a-week. An interesting enumeration was given in the last Statistical Ac- count of Newton, of all the occupations of the inhabitants, and the number employed in each. Nothing so minute can now be attempted. But it may be mentioned, as the result of a careftil NEWTON-UPON-AYR. S9 surveyi that,, in addition to fishermen, carpenters, and smiths, whose numbers have been already stated, there are hi the parish 400 weavers employed by agents for Glasgow houses, 27- colliers, 84 masons, 20 sawyers, and (including 12 shipmasters) about 100 seamen. It may not be unimportant to add, that, as nearly as can be estimated, there are 600 or 700 women, principally girls and unmarried women, employed in hand-sewing for ware- houses in Glasgow. The Ayrshire needle^work, so extensively known and justly ce- lebrated, was executed in this parish forty years ago : and it has been gradually improving until the present day. It consists of various patterns sewed on muslin and cambric for ladies' dresses, babies' robes, caps, &c From the year 1815, when point was in- troduced into the work, the demand for it in London and other parts of England, as well as in Dublin and Edinburgh, has in- creased to a considerable extent. It is also sent to France, Rus- sia, and Germany, and is exposed to sale in the shops of Paris. This valuable means of employment affords a fair profit to the manufacturer, and gives support to many respectable females, who by dint of industry, can earn from Is. to Is. 6d. and, in some cases, 2s« per day. In this work, whibh is confined to Ayr and its neigh- bourhood, several hundreds are engaged : and it is calculated that at least from 50 to 60 of them, who are chiefly young women, re- side in the parish of Newton. Ncmigation. — That we may not interfere with the account of the neighbouring parish of Ayr, we shall enter into no details un- der this head. It is proper, however, to state, that Newton has a joint interest in the harbour with the adjacent county town, and it would appear that this burgh formerly laid claim to anchorage-- dues. Nearly all the coal exported from the harbour, which con- stitutes a chief part of its trade, is received on this side of the river. One hundred waggon-loads are daily conveyed to the port along a railway, from the coal-mines in the parish of St Quivox. About 300 vessels of all sizes are annually loaded with coal^ chiefly for Ireland and the West Highlands. The yearly exportation amounts to 40,000 tons, which, at the present price of 13s. per ton of 28 cwt., makes the value of this trade L. 26,000 per annum. V. — Parochial Economy. Markets^ Sfc. — Newton has a market-day, but it is merely no- minal — all important business being transacted in Ayr. l^he po- pulation residing in the town is 3768. The town is situated in the 100 AYRSHIRE. south end of the parish, on the north bank of the river Ayr, and has scarcely any visible line of demarcation from Wallacetown. As respects the means of communication, it has all the advantages enjoyed by the county town, of which it may be regarded as a suburb. The mail and other coaches to Glasgow pass and repass daily. There is also a coach for Edinburgh, which passes daily through the parish ; besides which there are regular conveyances to Kilmarnock, Troon, and Irvine. There is only one turnpike road in the parish, which is a mile and a-half in length. There is also a rail-road, made about twenty years ago, along which, coals are conveyed from the mines to the harbour. The harbour has lately been much improved ; but, from a defi- ciency of funds, the improvements begun on the north side of the river have not yet been completed. A light-house was first erect- ed in 1790, by the company who rented the coal belonging to the community of Newton, on the north-east side of the harbour. But, as it was swept away by the encroachments of the sea, a wooden '.structure was erected in its place in 1827, which, though wanting '.'*'. m the recommendation of elegance, unquestionably possesses that • of utility. Ecclesiastical State. — Newton was originally part of the united parishes of Monkton and Prestwick; but the inhabitants being four miles distant from the parish church, where they had only ac- commodation for twelve or fourteen out of a population of between 700 and 800 examinable persons, a large amount of the common fund which fell to be divided among the freemen, was, in 1776, ge- nerously set apart by them for building a place of worship within the burgh. It was at first established in 1778^ on the footing of a chapel of ease ; but, in 1779, a decreet of disjunction and erection was obtained from the Court of Teinds, by which the burgh with its territory was constituted a separate parish. By that decreet, the whole teinds of the lands belonging to the freemen were re- served to the minister of the original parish ; and an obligation was laid on them and their successors to uphold and repair the church of Newton, and provide a suitable stipend for the minister, besides a manse and glebe. It does honour to the liberality of the freemen — who are the only heritors in the parish — that, at a time when their own resources were but small, they voluntarily came under these obligations, — expending in the erection of the church and manse about L. 2000. And although the burgh was thereby brought to the brink of bankruptcy, they were ultimately NE WTON-UPON-AYR. 1 1 enabled, by means of the revenue derived from their coal-works, to free themselves from their difficulties. It should also be men- tioned, that in 1778, they purchased the right of patronage to their church from the patroness of Monkton and Prestwick. This is still held by them, and exercised in a peculiar manner. They are obliged to elect annually thirteen of their number, who are called delegates. Upon these delegates devolves the management of the secular affairs of the church ; and in the case of a vacancy they have the sole power of electing a minister, and granting a pre- sentation — but nine out of the thirteen must concur in the choice. The church, which was built in 1778, was lately enlarged, and now affords accommodation for 1032 persons. There are no free sittings. The manse was built in 1787, and repaired in 1827. The glebe contains 6^ acres, including the ground occupied by the garden, manse, and offices, and may be valued at L. 15 a year. The stipend amounts only to L. 60, with L. 5, for a cow's grass. But L. 90 is allowed by Government ; and a gratuity, besides, is given by the freemen out of the proceeds of the seat-rents, which is at present L. 95 ; so that the amount annually received by the incumbent is L. 250. There is also an allowance of L. 8. for sa- cramental expenses. The glebe was inclosed two years ago with a wall at a considerable expense ; and a garden wall is at present building. There is no other church, nor any dissenting chapel in the pa- rish. Three-fourths of the population belong to the Established Church ; so that the accommodation provided for them is very in- adequate, especially when it is taken into account that a conside- rable proportion of the congregation is extra-parochial. The fol- lowing table, with which the writer has been fevoured by his pre- decessor, exhibits the classification of the inhabitants of the pa- rish according to their religious profession, with the number of sittings possessed by them respectively in their places of worship. It is the result of a survey made in December 1835, and January 1836. Established Church, - 2960, holding 708 sittings. ReHef, ... 282,-116 United Secession, . 188» - 85 Original. Secedere, - 102, - 51 Reformed Presbyterians, 47, - 15 Methodists, - - 86,-24 Episcopalians, - - 51, - 13 Independents, - '^ 20, - 11 Morairians, - 9-1 L 102 AYRSHIRE. Roman Catholics, . 205, boldiog 39 nttings. No denomination, - 87 4087 1063 The result is, that 2960 persons, professing to belong to the Established Church, hold 708 sittings, and of that number 801 are communicants : 990 Dissenters of all denominations hold 355 sittings : and among them there are 350 communicants. Divine service at the Established Church is always well attend- ed. Scarcely a sitting is unlet. The Lord's supper is dispen- sed twice a year, and the number who communicate each time is betwixt 700 and 800. The amount of extraordinary collections for religious and charitable objects is small ; but the ordinary col- lections for the support of the poor are^ comparatively speaking, liberal. There are three religious societies connected with the parish, but none of them exclusively so, viz. the Ayr, Newton, and Wallacetown Female Bible Society; the Ayr Sabbath School Union Society, which has three schools in this parish, attended by about 200 cliildrcn ; and the Newton, Wallacetown, and St Quivox Society, for the monthly distribution of Tracts. Education, — There are in all five schools in the parish, but two of them are of a very imperfect description ; being taught by elderly women in the humbler walks of life, and intended solely for beginners. Wages are from 2d. to 3d. per week. Of the remain- ing three, one i^ for the education of young ladies"-and in it En- glish, writing, music, drawing, and fency-work are taught on mo- derate terms; another, in which all the ordinary branches are taught, is unendowed. Besides these, there is the parochial school, which is at present attended by 91 scholars. In addition to the ele- mentary branches, instruction is given in mathematics, Latin and French. The schoolmaster has the minimum salary. He has no house or garden, but an allowance in lieu of them. The average amount of school-fees received does not exceed L. 50 a-year. There is a small fund of L. 98, the interest of which is appropriated to the education of children of the poor, provided their parents have been bom in the parish. The general expense of education may be stat- ed at ds. 6d. per quarter. The whole number of children attending schools within the parish is only 250, which is not more than a six- teenth of the population. Many, however, attend the Ayr Academy, and other schools which are in the immediate vicinity ; so that it is believed the number who cannot read or write is but small. Still 4 NEWTON-UPON-AYE. 1 03 there is a lack of the means of education ; and one or two additional endowed schools are much required* Library — A parochial library was instituted in 1 829, and contains about 500 volumes. The annual subscription is 2s., and the num- ber of readers varies from 60 to 100. Friendly Societies. — Of these there are only two, which can be considered as belonging to this parish, and they are not in a pros- perous state. But there are 10 or 12 societies whose members are scattered through Ayr, Newton, and Wallacetown ; and since 1790, they have distributed among their sick and infirm^members L. 18»64a Savings Bank.-^^A savings bank was instituted in ldl5^for'^the parishes of Ayr, Newton, and St Quivox. The sums invested yearly have since its commencement gradually increased. Last year they amounted to L. 2715 — the sums withdrawn to L. 2375. In the course of the last two years 503 accounts have been opened for new depositors, about one-fourth of whom reside in this parish. The depositors in general belong to the various classes of mecha- nics, — weavers, masons, shoemakers, carpenters, &c.— and a very considerable proportion are females, employed at needle-work, or as domestic servants. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The following table shows the ave- rage number of persons who have received parochial aid for the last seven years, the annual amount of contributions for their ns- lief, and the corresponding outlay : Average No. of Years. poor on the roll. Income. Expenditure. 1830, - 64 . L.165 A li - L. 163 5 8 1831, - 56 . 176 3 H - 188 13 64 1832, - 54 . 179 6 . 178 14 10^ 1833, -60 - 168 18 54 - 178 16 5 1834, - 70 - 175 2 11) . 184 4 1835, - 56 - 171 9 7) - 180 14 8 1836, . 47 - 149 I 54 . 164 18 84 Besides the monthly pensioners, whose allowance varies from is. 6d. to 8s. per month, and may be averaged at 4s. 6d., there are many who receive occasional aid. The funds for the support of the poor ar6 raised by church collections, amounting to about L. 100 yearly, and by an assessment, which varies from Lp 45 to L. 50. A little additional assistance is obtained from occasional donations, penalties, and other miscellaneous sources of income. It will be observed that, for some years past, the income has been exceeded by the expenditure. To remove the debt, which is thus accumuhiting, it is proposed to increase the assessment ; but it is 104 AYRSHIRE. to be feared that the effect of doing so would be to diminish pro* portionably the church collections. The assessment is not pro* ductive, nor is it Tory willingly paid. It would be extremely de- sirable if it were possible to dispense with it altogether. But to this it is objected, that Dissenters, who do nothing Toluntarily for the support of the poor, would then be entirely relieved. Even this grievance, however, might be submitted to, if the amount raised by voluntary contributions were adequate to meet the ne- cessary expenditure. It is to be regretted, that there seems to be little indisposij;ion among the'poor to seek parochial relie£ Some there are, indeed, who willingly submit to privations rather than ap- ply for it ; but much greater is the number of those who feel no reluctance in making such applications. Inns^ Alehouses^ Sfc — There are 30 public-houses or places where spirituous liquors are sold, which is in the proportion of one to every twenty-nine families — a number unnecessarily large. Fuel. — Almost the only fuel made use of is coal, which is pro- cured in abundance from the mines in the parish of St Quivox, which are little more than a mile distant from the town. A cart- load of 14 cwt. costs 6s. 9d. But many prefer the coal brought from pits at several miles distance, which is higher in price but su- perior in quality. Miscellaneous Observations. Some of the variations betwixt the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account have been referred to under former heads. The population has in the interval increased from 1689 to upwards of 4000. The style of building is much superior, and a new and excellent road has been opened, affording a fine approach to the town. Still more marked have been the improvements in the rural economy of the parish. Formerly a considerable tract of ground belonging to the freemen remained in common ; their fields were generally open^ and were kept constantly in tillage. Now the system of rotation of crops is duly attended to ; the cultivated fields are well enclo&» ed ; the soil has been improved in a high degree ; and no land re- mains undivided. At the period to which we refer the whole pro- perty was not worth more than L. 4000. At the present time — although the coal is exhausted, from which so much revenue was derived — its value cannot be less than L. 14,000 or L. 15,000. ^^ Each freedom," says the last Statistical Account, ^^ is valued at \m 95, though none have given so much for it.'' Freedoms may OCHILTREE. 105 now be estimated at from L. 800 to L. 400, and some haye brought as much as L. 500. Scarcely any improvement in the system of husbandry can be suggested, which is not already in progress. As regards the town, it would be very desirable that it were lighted with gas, and that some of the streets were better paved. It is proposed to establish immediately a carpet-manufactory, which will materially increase the means of employment And the Glasgow and Ayr railway, the terminus of which is to be in this parish, will immensely increase the facilities of communication. On the whole, as respects local advantages, there is much cause for con- gratulation. But it is to the extension of our educational and re- ligious institutions, and a higher appreciation of them by those for whose benefit they are designed, that we chiefly look, as calculat- ed, under the Divine blessing, most effectually to promote the hap- piness and comfort of the labouring classes, and of all ranks of the community. May 1837. PARISH OF OCHILTREE. PRBSBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES BOYD, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. }f ame. Ochiltree is derived by Chalmers, in his Caledonia, from the British Uchle tree, signifying the high town, or dwelling- place ; by others, from the Gaelic Uchle^ Camp, to which tree is annexed, thereby forming Uchle tree or Camp-tree, or from O' ChaaUearan, which signifies a district of a country covered with trees of all kinds. Which of these derivations may be the proper one, it is diflBcult to determine ; but any of them may be well ap- plied to the situation of the place. The first name given answers to the site of the old castle of Ochiltree, which is upon the brow of the high rocky banks of the Lugar, and the others may have arisen from a place called the Camp, and the rising ground, now occupied by the houses and gardens of the village, where there • Fumislied n«irly in its present form, by Robert Pettigrew, Esq. of Polquhairn. 105 AYRSHIRE. were at one time many large trees, probably of several hundred years of age. Boundaries and Extent, — Ochiltree is bounded on the south by the parishes of New Cumnock and Dalmellington ; on the east, by Old Cumnock and Auchinleck ; on the north, by the parish of Stair ; and on the west, by Stair and Coylton. Taking the eiLtreme points, it extends about 8 miles in length, by 5 in breadth, and contains, by the admeasurement of the several estates in it, 15,387 imperial acres, or 24^^ square miles. Topographical Appearances, — The greater part of the land lies on an elevation of from 400 to 1000 feet above the level of the sea, with a northern exposure, forming ridges of different^ lengths and heights, running in general from east to west, and connected with flat pieces of land composed of meadow and moss. The temperature is very variable, with considerable foils of rain. The soil is chiefly of a clayey nature, and the air often damp and chilly. It frequently happens that the crops are late in ripen- ing, and not well filled. Hydrography, — There are many springs of excellent water in the parish. There are two lochs, — one of them about 27 acres in extent, 'and from 2 feet to 20 feet in depth, and the other of smaller dimensions. They are only useful as reservoirs for cattle in very dry seasons. These lochs, which lie quite open, with gently rising grounds around them, could be easily drained ; but it may be questionable whether the land to be thus gained would repay the expense of the necessary outlay. The Lugar runs between the parishes of Ochiltree and Auchinleck ; and Coila divides the parish of Ochil- tree from that of Coylton. The Burnoch Water, and several other small streams or bums, fall at different points into the Lugar or Coila, which run into the river Ayr. Geology, — Although it be known that there are several seams of coal within the parish, none is raised, from the impression that they could not be woriced to advantage. No limestone has been discovered. There is plenty of freestone in various places, par- ticularly on the banks of the Lugar, and at Grarrochhill. Iron- stone, in thin beds, has been discovered in the hills of Polquhairn and Greenhill, but not in such quantities as to encourage any work to be carried thereon. From the declivity of the different ridges already referred to, which mark the appearance of the parish i there has been much OCHILTREE. 107 alluvial deposit carried into the lower places, which has formed meadows and marshes ; but, being of a clayey nature, it continues soft, and induces the growth of rushes, sprets, and other grasses usually found in wet places. The greater part of the land consists of a clayey loam, resting on a stiff clay subsoil, and, without drain- ing to a great extent, unfit for the new mode of husbandry, where green drilled crops enter into one of the rotations. The uplands are generally mossy, resting on clay of a yellow colour, covered by moss of various depths, which often break into what are called hags, or flow-moss. II. — Civil History. The author of Caledonia mentions, ^^ that, as early as the year 1498, there had been a feud between Hugh Campbell of Louden, the sheriff of Ayr, and Sir William Colville of Uckletree^ Knight," when the King granted an exemption to Sir William Colville and his tenants and servants from the jurisdiction of Hugh Campbell and his deputies, " because it was notoriously known that there is a deadly feud betwixt them." Again, ^^ after the disastrous bat- tle of Flodden, many violent acts were committed in Scotland, particularly in the south. In Ayrshire, the strong houses of Cum- nock and Uchletree were both violently taken possession of; their owners having fallen on Flodden field." From the same author we learn, ^^ that in 1296, Symon de Spalding, the parson of the church of Ochiltree, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick. During the reign of Robert I. Eustace de Colville granted to the monks of Melrose the church of Ochil- tree with all its pertinents — a grant which was confirmed by a charter from Robert de Colville of Oxnan and of Ochiltree in 1324. Down to the Reformation, the monks of Melrose enjoyed the tithes and revenues, whilst the cure was served by a vicar, who had a fixed salary from them. In 1527, James Colville of Ochil- tree granted an annualrent of L. 10 for the support of a chap- lain to ofiiciate at St Mary's altar, in the church of Ochiltree, and the grant was confirmed by the King in 1527-8. In 1530, Sir James Colville transferred the barony of Uchletree to Sir James Hamilton of Finnart-, in exchange for the barony of East Wemyss in Fife. In 1534, Sir James Hamilton transferred the barony of Ochiltree to Andrew Stewart, Lord Evandale, in exchange for the barony of Evandale, and in consequence of this exchange, Stewart was, in March 1542-3, created Lord Stewart of OchiU tree." 108 AYRSHIRE. His son, Andrew, Lord Ochiltree, a zealous reformer, whose daughter was married to Knox, appropriated to himself the whole of the lands which belonged to the church of Ochiltree. He also obtained from David Crichton, vicar, with consent of the Com* mendator of Melrose, the patron of that church, a charter of fee farming of all the church lands of Ochiltree, except the vicar's manse and garden, and this charter was confirmed under the Great Seal on the 10th May 1567. His grandson, Andrew Lord Ochil- tree, obtained, in 1601, a grant of the kirk lands of Uchletree, called the Vicar's Holm, and also the advowson, donation, and pa- tronage of the parsonage and vicarage of Ochiltree, and this char- ter was ratified in the Parliament of 1606. In 1653, the western part of the parish of Ochiltree was detatched from it, and formed into a separate parish called Stair* The barony of Ochiltree, as well as the patronage of the church, went through many hands, and eventually into the possession of William, the first Earl of Dundonald, who granted them to his second son. Sir John Coch- rane, who lost them by forfeiture in 1685. His son, William, having obtained a grant of them from the Crown in 1686, they continued in the Cochrane family until about one hundred years ago, when they were purchased by Governor M^Rae, who left them to Miss Macquire, afterwards married to the Earl of Glencairn. The barony was again sold about twenty years ago in lots, which were purchased by different neighbouring proprietors. There is another barony in the parish— namely, that of Traboch, which signifies ike dwdling place of the tribe^ the property of Sir James Boswell, Bart On this estate there is a farm called Hoodstone, which the ancestors of the present tenant have rented from about the middle of the thirteenth century. About that time, three brothers of the name of Hood came from England, and settled, one of them, in Hoodstone, and the others, in the neighbourhood. According to the tradition in the femily, the death of their renowned progenitor, Robin Hood, was the imme- diate cause of their emigration. * . Land-owners. — The land-owners, few of whom reside in the parish, are, the Most Noble the Marquis of Bute; Sir James Boswell of Auchinleck ; Dowager Lady Boswell ; David Limond, Esq. of Dalblair; James Pettigrew Wilson, Esq. of Polquhaim ; Robert Campbell, Esq. of Skerrington ; Andrew Hunter, Esq. of Bonnieton ; Robert M^Dirmet Fergushill, Esq. of Burnockston ; John D. Boswell, Esq. of Garallan, &c. 3 OCHILTREE. 109 Parochial Registers. — The registers of baptisms and marriages go back to the year 1641, but there was no register of deaths till about forty years ago. The registers began in 1641, were regular- ly kept for a considerable time, but were afterwards for a long pe- riod very much neglected. For the last fifty years they have been kept in a most regular manner. The first volume having been written in an old hand, and diflScult to be made out, the present schoolmaster was induced to copy the whole thereof into a new book, which copy was, by the late Rev. William Thomson, then minister of the parish, compared with the original, and attested by him on the dd November 1803. jlntiqtiities. — A part of the village is built on what was formerly a camp, but of its history there is little or nothing known. At the toll-bar, on the road to Ayr, there is a place called the Moat, where, a few years ago, was found an urn with calcined bones, and, last spring, a ploughman, in turning up the soil, found a crown piece of James L of England, in good preservation, the inscription quite legible, and within it the sword and mace. — Of the old castle of Ochiltree that stood on the banks of the Lugar, nothing remains but the foundation ; the stones having been taken away at different times to build houses and dikes on the adjoining farms. There are the ruins of an old castle at Auchincloich, but by whom, or for what purpose it was built in that hilly district, is not known. There is, detached from the rock on the banks of the Lugar, a large stone about 60 feet high, by 40 feet in length, and 20 feet in breadth, par- tially covered on the top with shrubs, heather, and grass. It is re- garded as a great curiosity, and called, from its peculiar form, Kemp's Castle. III. — Population. By the returns made to Dr Webster in 1755, the population of the parish was 1210 ; and by census taken in the year 1792, there were 1144 persons; in the year 1801, 1308; in 1811, 1548; in 1821, 1588 ; and in 1831, 1562 ; which shews a decrease since the pre- vious census in 1821, of 26 souls. The number of fiimilies in the pariih at the census in 1831, was d20 dwelling-houses, .... 271 males, . 799 femalcsy • 823 Of persons residing in the village, ... 642 country part, • 920 The yearly average of births for the last seven years was 34 deaths for the same period, • • 27 marriages, . . 13 110 AYRSHIRE. Number of persons under 15 years of age, • 586 from 15 and under 30, • • 451 30 50, .... 296 50 70, . . . 170 upwards of 70, . . - 59 Average number of children in each lamily, . . ^{ti insane and fatuous persons, • .10 deaf, . . ' > 1 blind, . • • .2 Of the proprietors of land of the value of L. CO of yearly rent and upwards, 14 Of farmers and holders of land on lease, . . 101 Of grooers and other shopkeepers, . . 9 Of mechanics of various descriptions both male and female, . 214 Of innkeepers, . . • . • 6 Numbers of fiimilies in (he parish, • 920 chiefly employed in agriculture, . • 121 trade, manu&cture, or handicraft, 118 Within the last three years there were seyen illegitimate births in the parish. Character of the People. — The inhabitants of this parish are very cleanly in their persons, and generally appear at church and mar- ket in substantial fine clothes. Indeed, it has been observed that the young females, particularly the servant girls, are rather fond of dressing finely. It is not unusual to see persons of this description arrayed in silk gowns, with other parts of their dress corresponding. Their wages are in this way almost wholly spent, instead of provid- ing, by the earnings of youth, for the wants of age, or for seasons of affliction. The food of the peasantry is generally oatmeal porridge and milk to breakfast, broth, with butcher-meat and potatoes to din- ner, and porridge or potatoes with milk for supper. In addition to these articles, they often use, at their meals, milk with cakes of oat- meal, or a mixture of oatmeal and bear meal, made into scones. In the families of most mechanics, tea is used, generally twice a*day, but the practice does not prevail amongst farm-servants to any extent. The inhabitants of this parish are entitled to rank high for their intelligence and respectability. Availing themselves of the advan- tages which the system of our parochial schools affords in early life, and improving the opportunities which afterwards occur for acquir- ing information, by reading and conversing with one another, — they are generally well acquainted, not only with the business of their own profession or trade, but also with the speculations and mea- sures that bear upon the agricultural and commercial interests of the country. Recent events have given an importance to politics which the people of this district deeply feel ; and the state of par- ties they observe with a watchful eye. It is only doing the inha- bitants of this parish justice to observe, that they are strictly honest in their dealings ; that they shew a commendable anxiety to bring OCHILTREE. Ill up tbeir children to habits of industry and integrity ; that they give a regular attendance on the public services of religion, and:''''gene- rally manifest a correctness of conduct in the different relations of life highly creditable to their principles and character. IV. — Industry. Affriculture. — The extent of land under cultivation, or occasion- ally in tillage, is about 10,242 imperial acres ; of hill pasture, plan- tations, and waste lands, 5145 imperial acres. Perhaps 1000 acres might be added to the present cultivated land, but such an improve- meiity in order to be advantageous, should be made at first on a li- mited scale, and under the most economical management. With- out adverting to the kind of soil, the distance from lime, and the probable additional value imparted to the land, it is not unusual for theorists to commence their operations on a large scale, and thus create disappointment to themselves, and bring ruin on those with whom they may be connected* Rent ofhand't Sfc — The rent of land called arable ranges from lOs. to L. 2 per acre, but the true average of the whole is about 15s. per acre* The grazing of a cow or ox is L. 3 ; of a sheep, 58* per annum. Wages. — The wages given to men-servants who are fit to do all kinds of work about a farm, average h, 12, 10s. per annum ; and to female servants of the same description, L. 7 a-year. These servants lodge in their master's houses, and get their food and wash^ ing. Day-labourers get in summer about Is. 8d., and in winter Is. 8d. per day, without food ; masons and wrights get about 2s. 6d; per day, when working from home. For building houses and walls the charge is L. 1, 10s. per rood ; and 3d. per foot for hewn work. Livestock. — The sheep kept are mostly of the black-faced kind, with a few of the Leicester, Bakewell, Southdown and Cheviot, with crosses from all these descriptions. There are a few of the black Egyptian breed, at Burnton, and other farms in the parish, which are much admired for their fine wool. The breed of cattle is of the Ayrshire dairy kind, and the formers are beginning to take greater care in the improvement of their slock, by the selection of superior bulls, and attending more par- ticularly to the keeping of the cows in the winter and spring. HuAandry. — The arable lands in the parish are divided into farms of various extent from 10 to 300 acres ; and, according to the usual system of management, a third or a fourth of the farm is put into white crop at the same time. Before breaking up any 112 AYRSHIRE. land for a crop, it is generally manured with a compost of lime and earthy or with dung ; then two white crops are usually taken^ with the last of which grass seeds are sown, which yield a crop of hay the following season ; then the land remains in pasture for five or six years, before it is broken up again. This is the ordinary rotation. Other modes of management are adopted, but only to a very limited extent ; and, therefore, need not be particu- larized. The mode taken for reclaiming waste or hill land is by first liming the same at the rate of 120 bolls to each acre ; or by paring the surface and burning it into ashes, which, with about 50 bolls of lime to each acre, are spread over it After two white crops are taken, it is sown down and kept in pasturage for sheep three or four years. Furrow-draining is not carried on to any great extent in the parish. Mr Tennant of Creoch has lately drained, according to this system, about 100 acres, at the expense of from L. 5 to L. 6 per acre. These drains are made about twenty inches deep, and filled up with small broken stones at least ten inches in depth. The advantages that arise from this system are very great, but a tenant under an ordinary lease, would not be justified in at- tempting it to any considerable extent As such improvements add permanently to the value of the lands, they should be carried on at the expense of the proprietor, and the tenant chained with a &ir interest on the money laid out on the draining. LecLses. — Many farms on the estate of Ochiltree were on life* time tacks, but these are now nearly all expired by the death of the tenants. The leases of other lands in the parish are from nine to nineteen years. Short leases are extremely injurious to the interests of the proprietor and tenant. As the lease draws near to a close, the occupier generally does as little as he can to improve his farm, and becomes quite careless about the state of his house and fences, being fearful were he to act otherwise, that some other person might reap the fruit of his labours. It would be for the advantage of both landlord and tenant, that the occu- pier, if industrious, should have a preference and obtain a new lease, before the expiration of the old one, by a fair valuation of the farm. By this plan, the tenant would be encouraged in carrying on his improvements, and the land always kept in good condition. The farm-houses are mostly covered with thatch, a few with slates, which is considered a great improvement, by giving less harbour to rats and mice. The fences are partly made by ditches with L. 9734 1290 - 2284 5255 420 1089 1034 292 5 300 150 50 L. 21,898 5 OCHILTREE. 113 white thorn planted on the bank of earth cast out of the ditch, and partly by stone dikes ; the former costing 2s. 6d. per fall for making with plants and paling; and the latter from 4s. to 10s. per fall of 18^ feet in length. Annual Produce. — The value of the different kinds of produce raised in the parish is as follows, viz. White crop, with pease and beans, Green do. - . - Hay, cultivated and meadow, Produce from 1043 cows, at L. 5 each, 140 fat cattle at L. 3, 1089 young do, at L. 1, 3448 sheep, at 6s. 167 pigs, at L. 1, 15s. young horses reared, gardens and orchards, wood sold out of plantations, Manufactures. — In the village there is a manufactory for making reaping-hooks. Those made and finished by Hector Walker are sent to different parts of the kingdom, and held in high re^ pute^ There are box-makers, smiths, wrights, masons, shoe- makers, tailors, coopers^ a baker, customary weavers, and cotton- weavers, — the latter class employed by the manufacturers of Glasgow and Paisley. A considerable number of the young fe- males in the village, and in some parts of the country, are employ- ed in sewing muslin, — an employment which in most instances un- fits them for other occupations, and, besides, it frequently injures their health, and leaves them very helpless when they get houses of their own, as to the management of their domestic concerns, V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market held in the parish. The nearest market- town of any importance is Ayr, which is 11^ miles distant from the village. There are about 7 miles of turnpike roads in the pa- rish, and 16 miles of other public roads, made, and upheld by the statute-labour converted into money, amounting annually to L. 75 a year. These funds are very judiciously applied in making and repairing roads, throughout the different districts of the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands, in the middle of the village. It was built in 1789, and is capable of holding 900 per- sons. . It is divided amongst the heritors according to their respec- tive valuations, and again amongst the tenants according to the size of their farms. The families, in the village, though many sittings are attached to their feus, complain, with great reason, of the want AYR. H 114 AYRSHIRE. of accommodation, and it is hoped that some plan will be adopted to remedy this evil. Built nearly at the eastern extremity of the parish, the church is rather inconveniently placed to a great part of the population. This, however, has not hitherto prevented even the most distant from giving a regular attendance. The manse and office-houses were built about forty years ago, and underwent a complete repair in 1833, when an addition was made to the manse. The extent of the glebe is about 9 acres, which may be valued at about L. 20. The stipend previously agreed upon between the heritors and the present incumbent, as awarded by the Court of Teinds in Ja- nuary 1835, for crop 1834 and thereafter, is sixteen chalders of victual, half meal and half barley, with L. 10 for communion ele- ments. The first minister recorded in the session books of the parish is the Rev. John Blythe. He succeeded Mr Fergushill* on the 27th * The foUowing memoranda, respecting the late Rev. John Fergushill, were sent to by me W. J. Duncan, Esq. of Glasgow. " He was the son of David Ferg^hill, a merchant at, and for some time provost of, Ayr ; and of Janet Kennedy, the sister or near relation of Hugh Kennedy, pro« vost of Ayr, the * same excellent person whom Livingston mentions in bis Charac- teristics.* John Fergushill received the first part of his academical education at the University of Edinburgh, where he remained for three years, but the plague having caused a temporary interruption of his studies, his fatiher resolved to send him to France to be educated at the Protestant Academy of Montaubao, where the well- knoWn Robert Boyd of Trochrig was then a professor. ** His father's wish was, that his studies should be superintended by Boyd, who was bis relation or conneciion ; but I have not been able to ascertain whether he ever en. tered upon his education there. He appears to have resided ibr some time with GiU bert Primrose, the minister of the Protestant Church at Bourdeaux, but as tbe plague reached that place in the early part of the next year, (1605,) he probably de- termined on returning to Scotland. By a letter to Boyd dated September 1050, we find him residing at home. For several years after thu period, he seems to have remained in great uncertainty, as to the course which he should adopt, having, on the one hand, the opportunity of following out his father's business of a merchant, and. on tbe other, the desire to study for the ministry, which seems to have been in a great de* eree rendered impossible by the weakly state of his constitution. In December 1608, lie wrote to Boyd, requesting his advice : from his letter it appears that his health had so much improved that he was able to prosecute his education, but a dif- fidence of hu own ability for the profession which he had so long desired, still hana* sed him, and kept him in doubt. I do not know what answer Boyd returned, or by what means Fergushill's resolution was ultimately fixed. His name appears twice in the register of matriculations of the University of Glasgow, first in Mandi \60by and second in 161 1. About three years afterwards, (July 31, 1616,) the presbytery of Glasgow * ordanit that Messrs John Haye, Thomas Boyde, Jhone Fer/guMUt for thair farther qualificatioune befoir admisssioune tb ye holie ministrie luld mak ane lang lessoune upone some place of Scripture, and sustain the disput upon some oon- trovertet held,' and Fergushill had for his subject, 2 Cor. I. 12. his oontroversie, De bonis Operibus. On September 11, 1616, it is recorded that these * nudde thair Lattein lessouns upon the texts befoir prescribed.' From this period 1 have met with no notice of Fergushill till march 1620, when, as minister of Ochiltree, he was cited before the Court of High Commission, at Glasgow, for non-oonfi»nnity to the Perth articles. He declined the jurisdiction of the court, and was suspended and sentenced to confinement within tbe town of Perth, but,, by the good offices of Trochrig and Mr OCHILTREK. 1 15 May 1641. And the following is a list of the gentlemen who have since been ministers : The Rev. Robert Miller ; the Rev. Matthew Cooper, admitted from Lilliesleaf in 1695; and afterwards translated to Kinfauns; the Rev. Samuel Lockhart, who died in 17*24; the Rev, George Reid, who was ordained on the 16th June 1725, and died on the 6th April 1786; the Rev. David Grant, admitted from Ettrick in December 1786; the Rev, Wil- liam Thomson, who was ordained in April 1 792 ; the Rev. John Lindsay, admitted from Auchinleck in June 1818; and the pre- sent incumbent, who was admitted from Auchinleck on the 18th April 183a The inhabitants of this parish are very regular in their attend - ance at church. By the last census taken in 1831, the population amounted to 1562, and on an average throughout the year, a con- gregation, from about 800 to 900 persons, assembles on the Sabbath day in the house of God. With the exception of five or six families, all the parishioners belong to the Establishment, and even of those families, some are in full communion with the church. There are 764 communicants. Collections are occasionally made for religious purposes, at home and abroad ; and although there are no residing heritors, the regular collections for the poor amount to about L. 62 Steriing yearly. From Whitsunday 1834 to Whitsunday 1835, they amounted to L. 68; and in the year that closed, Whitsunday 1836, to L. 75 — shewing a gradual increase very creditable to the people. Education. — There are two schools in the parish. The paro- chial school in the village is attended by about 100 scholars, and the branches taught are, English reading, grammar, writing, arith- metic, Latin, Greek, and geography. The salary is the maximum, and the schoolmaster receives the produce of a mortification, (left by Mr Patrick Davidson, on the lands of Shield, in the parish of Stair,) that yields L. 6, 3s. 4d. yearly. The school fees for read- John Chalmers, the last part of his sentence was modified, and he was allowed to re- turn to his parish of Ochiltree, under certain restrictions. Little is known of him for many years afler this time. He seems to have continued to preach notwithstand- ing his suspension, for we find* from the records of the kirk-session of Ayr, that he supplied the kirk with a sermon, ' and held session there January 10, 1625,' the pa- rish being then vacant. He was appointed minister of Ayr in August 1639, on the translation of Mr Robert Blair to St Andrews^ and was received by the Presbytery in the following November. Nothing of importance is recorded of him after that time, exoept the administration of the Solemn League and Covenant to his people, which was performed with great solemnity in November 1643. He died on the 1 1th of June 1644. ** The works from which the preceding memoranda ate taken are, the records of the Presbytery and University of Glasgow, and Wodrow*s MS. Lives of John Fer- gushill and Robert Boyd of Trochrig ; the latter of which is at present in prepara- tion for the press under my care.**— W. J. D. 116 AYRSHIRE. ing English and grammar are 2s. a quarter ; with writing added to the above branches, 2s. 6d. ; with writing and arithmetic added, ds. ; with Latin, 5s., and for geography, &c. no extra charge is made. The amount received by the teacher yearly may be L. 30 : he has also L. 6 a year as session-clerk. There is a private school at Sinclairston, on the west side of the parish, without any salary at- tached to it, and usually attended by about 40 scholars. The inhabitants of this parish are very much alive to the advantages of education. They make every effort to send their children to school, and though some of them have to go a considerable dis- tance, they are regular in their attendance. There are no children in the parish above eight years who cannot read, and there is good reason to believe, that a single grown up person of a sound mind cannot be found who is not able both to write and to read. Since the appointment of the present teacher, Mr Patrick Simson, to his charge, which was forty-five years ago, many have gone forth from the school of Ochiltree who now occupy respectable stations in society, as ministers, doctors, merchants, &e. whose attain- ments i-eflect much credit upon the instructor of their youth. There is a small library connected with the parish school. Some time ago, there were three friendly societies in the parish ; but as they were founded upon erroneous calculations, they did not answer the purposes for which they were instituted, and they are now given up altogether. There is a savings bank, which was esta- blished in the year 183), and is found to be a great benefit to trades-people, farm-servants, &c* Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are generally about twenty persons on the poor's roll, who receive a stated monthly allowance of from 4s. to 8s., according to their individual circumstances, with a part of their house rent paid. There are many more who receive occasional aid in money and coals. The sum distributed amounts to about L. 1 14 yearly, which is made up by collections in the church L. 62; by proclamations and mortcloth, L. 2; by a* volun- tary contribution from the heritors, L. 50, — last year it amounted to L. 127. The burden of providing for three insane persons who are taken care of in the village presses very heavy upon the funds, and accounts for the largeness of the sum annually expended* The persons on the roll are generally old and infirm. They never resort to public begging. They do all they can for theaiselves, and trust to the help given by the kirk-session, and to the spon- taneous charity of their neighbours and friends. The inhabitants of this parish having determined, about three years ago, not to supply vagrants, contributed a small sum to pro- OCHILTREE. 117 cure lodging for the night, and a little bread, to persons who were found, upon strict inquiry, to be in want Whilst by this arrange- ment, provision was made for the really needy wanderer to help him on his way, the artful impostor, who was wont to make a lucrative trade of begging, found the sources of his gain cut off, and was led, in some instances at least, to abandon his improper calling altogether. For some months past, this rule has been de- parted from, and the consequence is, that vagrants are making their appearance in great numbers. It is desirable that all parishes should join in the adoption of some plan for putting an end to this great and crying evil. i^air*.-!— There are two fairs held in the village of Ochiltree dur- ing the year — the one on the second Wednesday of May, and the other on the first Tuesday of November. At these fairs, horses, and black-cattle of all kinds are sold, servants engaged, and such other matters transacted as are usually settled by farmers, &c. at similar meetings throughout the county. Inns and Alehouses. — There are six places of this description in the village, but none in any other part of tlie parish. These have had no visible effects upon the morals of the people. At the same time, it is much to be wished, that fewer of such houses were licen- sed. The opportunities and enticements which they offer to the idle and thoughtless for spending their evenings together, may lead to the most injurious consequences. Fuel — Coal is the principal artice of fuel. Some peats are used. The coals which are procured from Drongan, in the parish of Stair, and at Garallan, in the parish of Old Cumnock, cost at the pit about 5s. per ton, and the carriage of |i ton to the village is 6s. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the Statistical Account given by the Rev. William Thom- son, the parish roads have been very much improved, and a better and more regular system of cultivating the land has been adopted, firom which the best effects have followed. Great improvement has taken place in the stock of horses, cows, &c. and especially in the management of the dairy, which has given the very first place in the market to the cheese of this district The rental of the pa- rish has increased from about L.dOOO to L. 8176, 10s. Sterling, and the inhabitants undoubtedly enjoy, in a much greater degree^ what are usually considered the comforts of life. Much may be yet done in the way of improvement, by draining, fallowing, and planting, which in the course of a few years would be a great he^ nefit to the proprietors and tenants of the parish. Jt//yieS7. PARISH OF ST QUIVOX. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. STAIR M«QUHAE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of the parish is now generally written St Quivox, but sometimes St Evox. At an earlier period it appears always to have been written St Kevoch. The name is supposed to be derived from " Sancta Kennocka Virgo in Cailoy'* who lived in the reign of Malcolm IL, and was distinguished for her zeal in promoting monastic institutions. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is about 5 miles in length, and 8 in breadth, and contains about 5000 acres. It is bounded on the south by the river Ayr, and on the east, north, and west, by the parishes of Tarbolton, Monkton, and Newton. Topographical Appearances. — In general, the surface of the pa- rish is level, but towards the eastern extremity it becomes more elevated and uneven. The temperature is mild, the snow scarcely ever lying more than two days. Westerly winds prevail, which bring frequent showers from the Atlantic. But the heavier rains are with a southerly wind, and with east wind the barometer al- most uniformly rises. The soil nearest the sea is generally light and sandy, with moss and clay dikes in particular parts. These parts are naturally wet from the clay beds which confine the springs ; and the small portion of higher land in the parish is a stiff clay soil. Geology and Mineralogy. — The geological and mineral cha- racter of the parish is of the order of stratified rocks belonging to the coal formation. The workable seams of coal intermediate with the other strata are only two, — the uppermost, a seam of about four feet in thickness, being tender and frangible, whilst the second seam, of nearly the same thickness, is very bard, and not easily broken, being of the quality termed splint-coal. The two seams are more than twenty fathoms from each other. These seams of coal arc the same which have been extensivelv worked ST QUIVOX. 119 in the adjoining parishes of Newton and Prestwick. In the pa- rish of St Quivox the uppermost seam of coal has been nearly ex- hausted by workings, which were carried on about fifty or sixty years ago. The lower seam has been only within these few years fitted, and there mav remain to be worked about 1000 acres. The coal field is tenninated on the north by a great diker or slip, which passes near the church of St Quivox, running in a direction nearly north-west; although trials have been made over this dike, no workable seam of coal has been found. There are no other mi- nerals in the parish which are considered to be of value* Yellow trout are found in the water of Ayr, and afibrd good sport to the angler, but there is no salmon fishery of any import- ance. The fruit trees are much infested by a small caterpillar, (Aphis laniffera^J of which the larvae appear to be deposited in the bud by the parent fly in autumn, and which destroys the blossom and leaves when they expand in spring, producing a devastation which is vulgarly called blight Of late years the young wheats and turnips have suffered greatly from the wire-worm, which attacks the roots in April and July, and often destroys the white crop. It prevails, chiefly in the dry light soils, and seems to be increased in the vicinity of the town by the use of ashes as manure. No adequate cure for the evil has been discovered ; but the con- suming of the turnip on the ground by sheep, by consolidating the soil, seems to impede the operations of this destructive insect The crows, larks, and pheasants, devour vast numbers of these worms, but they destroy also the young plants, by plucking them up in search of their prey. The crows in general discover the presence of the insect by the unhealthy appearance of the blade, and pull only the injured planL But when they happen to alight in great numbers and in a hungry state, upon a field of young turnips, which have recently been thinned, they frequently destroy the whole crop in a very short time. II. — Civil History. Land'-owners. — The principal land-owners are, Mr Oswald of Auchencniive; Mr Forbes of Callendar; Messrs Hunters and Com- pany, Bankers, Ayr ; and Mr Campbell' of Craigie. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers do not extend farther back than the year 1780, but since that period they have been kept with great regularity. Antiquities. — Several small earthen urns were lately discovered 120 AYRSHIRE. in levelling a sand-bank at Content, supposed to be Roman. . They are now in the possession of Dr Memos, Rector of the Ayr Aca- demy. There are spacious mansion-houses at Auchencruive and Qraigie. Both are finely situated on the banks of the Ayr, and the gardens and grounds at Auchencruive, laid out with much taste, are objects of attraction to strangers. 1 1 1. — POPULATI ON. In 1755 the population of the parish of St Quivox amounted to 499 souls. But soon after that period. Sir Thomas Wallace of Craigie began to feu at the bridge end of Ayr, and at present, besides an agricultural population of 1071, Wallacetown and Content contain 4277, making in all 5348 souls. This increase has arisen from the coal-works in the parish, and in the neigh- bouring parish of Newton, from the general growth of the ma- nufactures of the country, and from the demand for labourers, in consequence of agricultural improvements. The inhabitants of Wallacetown and Content belong chiefly to the poorer class of Irish settlers, and consist of colliers, labo^irers, and weavers em- ployed by the manufacturing houses in Glasgow and Paisley. There are also a considerable number of artisans, carters, publi- cans, and shopkeepers, besides an undue proportion of strangers from Ireland, who have only a precarious means of subsistence, and are induced to take up tl^eir temporary abode here, by the cheapness of lodging, and the liberaliiy of the public of Ayr in supplying their wants. There are only five proprietors of land, all of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, — and Mr Oswald and Mr Campbell are the only residing heritors. Kuraber of families in (he parish, - . . |]4^ chiefly employed in agriculture, - . \H2 trade, manufacture, or handicraft, 479 IV. — Industry. The whole of the parish is in tillage, with the exception of about 250 acres covered with plantations of various ages, consisting of the ordinary kinds of forest trees, which are carefully thinned, and are in a thriving condition. Bent — The average rent of land may be stated at about L. 2, 5s. per acre. The grazing of a milch cow is from L. 4 to L. 5 ; a two-year old ly. 2 ; a-year old L. 1, 10s. Live stock. — The Ayrshire breed of cattle are in general use, being preferred even for fattening, as it is believed that they rise to more weight in proportion to the food they consume, and are 3 8T QUI vox. 121 fit for the butcher at an earlier age than any other stock with which they have been compared. Eleven or twelve pounds is no uncommon price for bullocks sold to the butcher, in the month of April, then just two years old, and which have been well reared with milk, and fed during the winter with turnip. Only a few sheep, as pets, are bred in the parish, and those fed on turnip are generally of the black^faced kind, bred in the Highlands or Gal- loway. Husbandry. — Husbandry is in a flourishing state, and the land, in possession of a very intelligent and industrious tenantry, has of late years been much improved. On the light soils, which comprehend a large proportion of the parish, a 6ve years' rotation is generally observed: — 1. oats; 2. green ^ crop, consisting of turnips, potatoes, carrots or mangel-wurzel ; 3. wheat or barley ; 4. hay, or sown grasses pastured with sheep or cows ; 5. pasture. Manure for the green crops is purchased in Ayr at about Ss. per cart, but on the farms near the town, the inhabitants are allowed to plant their own potatoes with their manure. The farmer works the land, leads the manure, for which he is paid, and charges the cottager Is. per boll for potatoes produced, as rent. Turnips, chiefly Swedish, are the prevailing green crops. Of these one half are drawn to feed bullocks or dairy stock, and the other half are consumed on the ground by sheep. On the farm of Shields, si- tuated about four miles from Ayr, occupied by Mr J. Tenant, an extensive dairy has been substituted for the feeding of bullocks. About 60 cows are kept in the highest condition, being fed in the winter with boiled Swedish turnip, carrot, mangel-wurzel, and bean meal, and are always fit for the butcher when the milk fails. The whole of the milk is churned ;' the buttermilk sold in Ayr ; and the butter, which, by the mixture of a small quantity of salt- petre with the milk, has been entirely freed from any unpleasant turnip flavour, is carried to Edinburgh and Glasgow markets. On this farm the practice of feeding sheep on turnip, and pastur- ing' the sown grasses, instead of cutting hay, was first introduced into the parish ; and the land^ having now passed three or four times through the rotation on this system, is so much improved, that 60 milch cows are kept well on the same number of acres which, at the commencement, barely supported 40. The light soils in some parts kept in a marshy state by springs, have been dried by deep box drains covered with small stones ; and on the stifi* soils, the practice of furrow- draining, with 122 AYRSHIRE. small brick, stones, or tile, has come into general use. On the estate of Backhouse, above 15,000 falls of drains of various descriptions have been laid within the last two years. The expense is incurred by the proprietors, who indemnify themselves by a small additional rent, or receive assistance from the tenants in the leading of the materials. The leases of land are generally for nineteen years. On the estate of Auchencruive, the tenants are rarely changed, and the proprietor seeks rather to retain men of spirit and industry, and to enable them to cultivate the land with success, than to let the farm to the highest bidder. The farm-buildings in the whole of the pa- rish are commodious and in good repair ; and the thorn hedges, which form the enclosures, are well kept, and have been gradually improving by the practice which prevails of dressing them when green, with the hedge*hook, in the month of August. Quarries. — There are several quarries of excellent freestone in the parish, and three coal-pits constantly worked, which produce coal of good quality. Produce. — The amount of raw produce raised in the parish may be stated as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds, being 480 acres of wheat at L. 11 , and 566 acres of oats at L. 8, lOs. per acre, Green crop, naVy • • • • ■ Land in pasture at L. 2 per acre, Gardens and orchards, .... Thinning and felling of wood, .... Produce of coal mines and quarries, L.23598 In the above statement grass lands are estimated at too low a rate, as they actually produce much more with dairy stock than if they were employed in grazing at the usual rate of cattle. It is difficult, however, to render this part of the estimate more accurate, as the produce of the dairy stock arises also from the consumption of turnip, carrot, potatoes, &c which are already valued sepa- rately. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — The whole of the parish being near to Ayr, and the most populous part of it forming a suburb of that town, it en* joys the advantage of a convenient market for all commodities, and of a daily post The thriving village of Whitelets is situated a mile and a-half from Ayr, and the roads from Ayr to Mauchline and to Gralston, which are kept in excellent repair, pass through the whole L. 10091 4704 1150 3018 100 1190 8405 ST QUIVOX. 123 length of the parish. There is also a railroad from Whitelets to the harbour of Ayr, for the conveyance of coal. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church was built before the Reformation, but was repaired and enlarged about twelve years ago, and now affords good accommodation for nearly 500 sitters. It is situated near the centre of the parish ; but the mass of the popu- lation, being at one extremity, are three miles distant from the church, in which they have no accommodation. To remedy this evil, which had been long felt by that large portion of the inha- bitants of Wallacetown who belong to the Established Church, a chapel was built by subscription in that district in the year 1835, which affords accommodation to nearly 900 sitters. The General Assembly granted a constitution to this chapel in the year 1836, and Wallacetown has since been disjoined quoad sacra from the parish of St Quivox, and erected into a separate parish. The Rev. John Alexander was ordained minister of Wallacetown by the presbytery of Ayr in the same year ; and the whole of the sit- tings in the new church are already let— chiefly to parishioners. An excellent manse was built in the parish of St Quivox in the year 1823. The glebe consists of four acres, which may be va- lued at a yearly rent of L. 10 ; and the stipend, which was aug- mented in 1835, consists of 18 chalders. There are in Wallacetown an Antiburgher meeting-house, an United Secession church, a reformed Presbyterian meeting-house, a small Independent church, a small Episcopal chapel, and a handsome Roman Catholic chapel. The congregations attending the places of worship assemble from this and eight or nine of the surrounding parishes. The ministers are paid chiefly from the seat-rents, but the exact amount of stipends cannot be ascertained. The number of femilies in the parish belonging to the different religious denominations is as follows : — Established Church, 724 families; Roman Catholics, 125; Relief, 112; United Secession church, 71 ; Antiburghers, 40 ; Episcopalian, 20 ; Reformed Pres- bytery, 25; Methodists, 18; Independents, 6; Moravians, 3; Universalists, 2 ; total, 1 146 families. The Established Church is well attended by the agricultural po- pulation, who alone have seats ; and the collections for charitable purposes amount to about L. 50 per annum. Education. — There are one parochial and eight unendowed schools in the parish, in which Latin, mathematics, book-keep- ing, arithmetic^ geography, reading, and writing are taught. The 4 1^4 AYRSHIRE. parochial teacher has all the legal accommodations, with a salary of L. 30 per annum. The other teachers are supported solely by fees. The expense of education varies from 12s. to L.1, 2s. per annum, according to the advancement of the pupil. -The whole of the native population can read ; but there are some of the Irish settlers, and a few of the younger members of their families, who have not been instructed in reading. In general, education is sought after; and the Sabbath schools, of which there are several^ are well attended, and have occasioned a visible improvement in the moral habits of the poorer classes. There is a small parochial library lately established ; but, with regard to this and the other branches of parochial economy, it may be observed, that, owing to their close vicinity to Ayr, many of the parishioners avail themselves of the schools, mechanics' institutions, libraries, and religious associations established in that town, while they enjoy the benefits of the dispensary and savings bank for Ayr, Newton, and Wallacetown. Friendly Societies. — Several friendly societies have existed in the parish ; but it generally happens, that when the weekly assessment in support of their funds increases much, in conseqr.ence of age, infirmity, or prevailing sickness amongst the members, these insti- tutions are broken up. In order to remedy this defect incident to all such societies in which the weekly contribution varies, and in times of exigency rises to an amount inconvenient for the mem- bers, a funded female friendly society was established a few years since under the patronage of Lady Lilias Oswald, to which the ordinary members pay a regular quarterly assessment of Is. 2d., and receive an aliment of 4s. per week in sickness, besides an allowance for marriage and funeral expenses. There are a number of ho- norary members who contribute a higher rate, with the view of giving effect to the institution ; and as there is (chiefly owing to the liberality of the patroness) a stock of about L. 320, it is hoped that the funds will be able to meet the increased demand upon them, which must be expected, as the present members be- come aged and infirm. Poor. — There are about 80 regular and temporary paupers on the roll, who receive at an average Is. per week, — 10s. being the highest, and Is. 6d. the lowest monthly allowance. For the last twenty years, there has been an assessment for the support of the poor, which is levied on the real rent of land and houses, one-half payable by the proprietors, and the other half by the occupiers. ST QUI VOX. 125 From the year 1812, the annual expenditure for the poor had gradually increased till the year 1822, for which year it amounted to L. 383, the assessment being at the rate of 7id. per pound Sterling of real rent. From the year 1823, the expenditure has gradually decreased till the year 1830, when it amounted to L.219, and the assessment for this current year, 1831, has been fixed at 5d, per pound on land, and 4d. per pound on houses,* — an inferior rate being levied on houses, in consideration of the perishable na- ture of that description of property. There is unfortunately little disposition in the parish to abstain from asking parochial relief; and the facts stated above afford a practical refutation of the as- sertion which has been so frequently made, that the expense of the poor must of necessity increase whenever funds for their sup- port are raised by legal assessment. Owing to the influx of poor Irish, it would be difficult to find in Scotland a place more abound- ing in pauperism than Wallacetown ; and in the present most un- fair and injurious state of the law of settlement, the expenditure of the poor can only be kept within reasonable bounds by a strict application of the funds to the relief of those aged and infirm per- sons and infants for whom the law provides, and whose claims to parochial aid is the same, whether the funds for their support are derived from legal assessment or voluntary contribution. Itms. — The number of public houses in the parish is unreason- ably great. This no doubt arises from the great demand for ar- dent spirits which already exists ; but it is obvious that the increase of those houses, by the facilities thus afforded for the indulgence of intemperance, must aggravate the evil. Fuel. — There is abundance of coal in the parish and neigh- bourhood, which is sold at the pits from 6s. to 9s. per ton, accord- ing to the distance from the harbour of Ayr, where it is shipped for the Irish market. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the date of the last Statistical Account, the state of agri- culture is prodigiously improved, and the greater portion of the parish now resembles a well cultivated garden. The population has increased threefold, and the rental of land is more than doubled. * Since 1 83 1, the expenditure for the poor has gradually inereased. Drawn up in 1831 — Revised July 1837. PARISH OF SORN. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JOHN STEWART, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parish of Sorn, in all likelihood, derives its name frotn the Celtic word Sorrij signifying a snout, projection, or dis- agreeable visage, and may have been so called from the projection, promontory^ or eminence, on which the castle stands. In Alex* ander and Donald Stewart's Collection of the Highland Bards, we find a song addressed to a gentleman dwelling in a fiirm in Mull, called Sorn. In the parish of Morven, and on the side of Loch- Sunart, there is a farm situated on an eminence called Soma. There is also a place in Cornwall where the Celtic language was spoken until the beginning of last century, and in some instances preached, called Some. The original name of the parish was Dal- gain, (the ground on which the church, manse, and glebe stand, having been a grant from the late Hugh Mitchell, Esq. of Dal- gain,) and is supposed to have been changed in consequence of the vicinity of Sorn Castle, an ancient seat of the Loudon family, to the church. Dalgain, like Sorn, is of Celtic origin, being evidently derived from Dal and ffaineimk, the 6eld of sand or gravel, — a name strikingly descriptive of the soil on which the old house of Dalgain stands. Extent and Boundaries. — Sora is nearly a square, whose side is about 6^ miles, and is intersected by the river Ayr. It is bound- ed on the east, by the parish of Muirkirk ; on the west, by the parish of Mauchline ; on the north, by the parish of Galston ; and on the south, by the parish of Auchinleck. Topographical Appearances. — The external appearance of the parish is considerably diversified by its rising grounds, and its level holms on the banks of the Ayr, as well as by the large extent of moors and mosses which adjoin the land now under cultivation, and which have been greatly improved of late years. The only hill of any considerable height in the parish is Blackside-end, situated on the SORN. 127 north-east boundary of the parish, from whose summit, which has been rated at about 1500 or 1600 feet above the level of the sea, there is in clear weather a very extensive view ; some individuals maintaining that no less than sixteen counties may be seen from it. The scenery along the banks of the Ayr is remarkably picturesque, and is peculiarly so about Sorn Castle and the manse. Meteorology* — The climate may in general be characterized as healthy, although, as in the greater part of the west of Scotland, there are frequent and heavy falls of rain. The prevailing winds are the west and south-west Snow seldom falls to any consider- able depth, and when it does &11, remains only a very short time upon the ground. The following extract for the last three years from a meteoro- logical table kept at the Catrine works may serve to convey a very accurate idea of the climate : — 128 AYRSHIRE. 1 'atttWH Uios JV • ••••• •■ _^ _; r-so-'a'O — ec©i«eo««w M 'osaK i»qftH ■)iaA07 I 1 I'S en 'U«9N •J»q9!H *)ldM07 e I f- ' B. ho o '2 O -a o c a 8 s •ossK s • • • • • • • ^« • • • • gncdOoc:c)0»A0dSio «N 'M « "N -M ^ T-l 'N "N 'N CO I xa • I s OS a*K W © -^ ©I "^ M 80 •K ei — « — p^r^t^ 'M'S I 9< kO iQ(0• "M M o 09 C5 90 91 iooo©aooO"«^eieor«'« ■^t ao lO ooeeoeoeo — t^iom ■ •••••••»•••• 09;8eo — eo — eo-^iosoTTO* CO • 80 ooeiome»oioeoeic — eS — o»ov««x — '» — r* wort— 'Oo*^co— ieoo"v©« 1 CI 80 99eKdto«ooeeoor«ei-^ ia*oia^cot^r»r«^iOicio a»5S® — oo».o'«ooTr;o;aA s gl ;e — -T^iojco — — ©— «^v _■ ^» ^» • • • ^_« • • • • 0©S©C60S©S©0© eO«9O«?i?09O« -.009^50 Gl u O n^r«8SC0Q0«099r<»OiO«(t Pr«»eoMMe090A95o)© OOQOOOOe^OdAOtOOXQOA 'MCie4'N 3 C «:= ►»« alvB^S Q I « § r? s ^'S 3 ^ ^ « « J J? dOOroiQiOM ^ 00 A -N« coosaor^^io — "^ro^ — w — CI — N « -« i-* — r<«©» t*« c« lO .lO ro a © 09 09 s — ©1 09 W "* CO — «D OCO'^SOa»CSCOt^CO^QO«D S 90 — ■* 09 Ol •-< 00 » — t»co £1 CO CO 09 "*00 ^ ..»»oio9ri — — — — ^ sa — •O70'«oao:wi^io«9c>« § s SORN. 129 u 'Eb IS a €0 O a aios IV »V S S S ^ A :s fi;rS 2! S S S • • • _• _• • • • « • • • i. 1l u •«n»K to 40 CO «o qs iQ s 1«M»!H ■^ "^ •© eo O ^ eo tO o •o t« r« ro i<* CO COiQ Wd *)S3ii07 1 *iraaH » lO o ■« -V iid lO *« iO •e e ea eon 94 r^r*04 •C us lO «o;o3« SSSS V Ss lO •1»U«tH S2 e* CO CO «e QO M o o •« 04 90 r* 2 9? QO lid r|»9M07 00 80 lO lO O »fd t^0» e s o»«e QD QD lO iQ tQ lO in9|f QD CO 00 O) o> A 91 91 e« ee ^ kA cc CO «5 w •Q 90 iQ 93 Od A 91 91 ?l T»q*jH SS^ O) o« o W "* — 8g* ei CO 00 ^ co8« 9« ao M • • • O OdO CO 91 00 *)a9Aoq 3 I i •a*N •AT 13 » «o CO — (O 00 00 oo 91 »09it«^r*is«^— -*COO»^«'^t^0^iOt»tO-V r J-fi J : : : S iJ S ATIU 130 AYRSHIRE. Hydrography, — The only river in the parish is the Ayr, which, entering at its eastern extremity, runs through it in a westerly di- rection. This river, whose bed is of round stones and gravel, rises . in the parish of Muirkirk, and is considerably increased in its course by the Greenock and Garpel, two rivulets which run into it about six miles from its source, as well as by several streamlets, which, now that furrow- draining has been so generally introduced into this country, immediately after a heavy fall of rain, swell the Ayr into an immense body of water. The usual velocity of this river is about a mile an hour, but when swelled by a heavy &ll of rain, or the melting of snow on the neighbouring hills, its velocity is increased to six or seven miles an hour. The scenery along its banks, which in many places are steep and bold, is remarkably pic- turesque and beautiful. There are several burns of water in the pa- rish, the principal of which is the Cleuffk, which runs into the Ayr close by Sorn Castle. This burn, which passes through a deep glen finely wooded on each side, though on a small scale, exhibits in some points scenery not greatly inferior to the much admired scenery at the Falls of the Clyde. Here are to be found beautiful specimens of what is commonly called petrified fog, or. more properly calc- tuff, which are generally attached to the precipice, where it is form- ed by the deposition of the carbonate of lime, held in solution by the water which oozes from the rock upon the moss with which it is covered. Geology J Soil, ifc. — The primitive rocks do not make their ap- pearance in the parish in situ^ although the debris of several va- rieties of granite is found in abundance in the diluvial deposit The whole district, however, is rich in the more useful minerals of the secondary formation, and is chiefly remarkable for the very exten- sive beds of limestone which are found on both sides of the river, and which have been wrought for economical purposes during a century. Coal seams also occur to some extent in the parish, and at no great distance under the surface. In the same locality, seams of clay ironstone (alternating with slate-clay) are found in very great abundance, and are said to contain a very large per centage of metal. The ironstone has never been fused on the spot; but some years ago a considerable quantity was made use of by the Muirkirk Iron Company at their Vorks, about eight miles higher up the river. Strata of sandstone of considerable variety of struc- ture are also found in the vicinity of the coal, and towards the west- ern part of the parish, where the coal and lime disappear, the SORN. 131 sandstone becomes less indurated, and better fitted for being wrought into building stones. In the holms, on the banks of the river Ayr, the soil is of a gravellish nature. On the higher ground it is generally reddish clay, and near the hills it assumes a mossy character until it ter- minates in moss. Underneath parts of this. moss, however, there is in many places a substratum of clay, which, when ploughed up and mixed with a liberal portion of lime, produces excellent crops of oats and a beautiful sward of grass. Zoology. — There are no rare animals found in the parish. There is in it a great abundance of hares and rabbits. It is only with- in these few years that rabbits first made their appearance in the parish in a wild state, but to such an extent have they increased, as in several instances to prove injurious to the crops and planta- tions. The fox, polecat, and weasel, white and brown, are all to' be met with in the parish. The adder abounds in the moors and mosses. Birds of all kinds peculiar to the district abound in the parish. In consequence of the great additions which have been made to the plantations of late years, the number of birds has greatly in- creased, and they are now very destructive to the farms and gar- dens. Game birds of all kinds are also to be found in great numbers in the moors, fields, and plantations. Of late, there has been a great increase of pheasants, which are now frequently to be seen running upon the public roads in considerable numbers. Black*cock too have increased lately on the high grounds, but have not, as in other districts, displaced the red grouse, which still abound in the parish. The firesh water trout, which at one time abounded in the river Ayr, but which had for a number of years disappeared in conse- quence of the tar-works at Muirkirk, now that these works have been discontinued, have again returned, and are caught in abun- dance in the Ayr, as it flows through Sorn and the adjacent pa- rishes. Botany. — There is nothuig in the botany of this parish worthy of particular notice. An eminent botanist, who examined its vege- table productions lately, was unable to discover any plants but such as are to be found in other districts ; the appearance and vegetable productions of the banks of the Ayr, from Sorn village to Catrine, being in his opinion similar to those of the banks of the Esk on the east coast 132 AYRSHIRE. Woods and Plantations^ Sfc. — A vast addition has been made to the plantations in the parish^ since the last Statistical Account was written. At that time there were but few trees and no plan* tations, save those which had been planted in the immediate neigh- bourhood of Sorn Castle by the late Countess Dowager of Lou- don. This distinguis|)ed lady, after having lived for a considerable time at the courts of Queen Anne and George L, took up her re- sidence at Sorn Castle in 17279 when she commenced, and car- ried on with wonderful activity and skill, till within a short period of her death, those improvements in hedging and planting which to this day adorn the surrounding landscape. The good work commenced by the Countess of Loudon has been followed up by the present possessor of Sorn Castle, Mrs A. Somervell, who, with great taste and judgment, has laid off extensive plantations and beautiful hedges, not merely in the vicinity of the castle, but to a considerable distance along the roads leading to Galston and Mauchline, and also on the higher lands of the parish. These plantations are in a very thriving condition, and will soon prove an ornament and a shelter to this once bleak and dreary district of country. Besides those on Sorn Castle estate, there are about 100 acres of very thriving plantations on the estate of Dalgain, now also the property of Mrs A. Somervell,' which were laid off about twenty years ago by a former proprietor, the late Mr Ste- venson, and have tended materially to improve the land, and have added much to the beauty of the scenery. There are also seve- ral plantations of smaller extent on other properties in the parish. Larch and Scotch fir are the predominating trees in these planta« tions, although there is also in them a proportion of oak, ash, elm, beech, and birch. It is much to be regretted, however, that a greater quantity of hard-wood has not been planted in these and in other plantations in this district of the country, and, when plant- ed, that care has not been taken to cut down in time the firs and larches. Had attention been paid to this, many plantations in Ayrshire, which are now in a state of decay, would have be^n in a high state of preservation. IL — Civil History. Land-owners. — There are no less than twenty heritors in the parish ; of these, Mrs A. Somervell of Sorn Castle and Dalgain, patroness and proprietress of about two-fifths of the parish ; Miss Gray Farquhar of Gilmillscroft ; Robert Campbell, Esq. of Auch- mannoch; George Rankin, Esq. of Burn head; Archibald Bucha- SORN. 133 nan, Esq. of Catrine Bank ; Lieut-Colonel Stewart of Catrine ; and four other small proprietors, are resident. The non-residing heritors are, the Duke of Portland ; the Marquis of Bute ; Sir James Boswell, Bart, of Auchinleck ; William Campbell, Esq. of Fairfield; Lieut •Colonel M^Adam Cathcart of Craigengillan ; Claud Alexander, Esq. of Ballochmyle ; William Campbell, Esq. of Nether Place ; Thomas Falconer, Esq. of Auchencloigh ; Miss Innes of Stow ; and Alexander Murdoch, Esq. of Briggs. Antiquities, — There is nothing particularly worthy of being no- ticed under this head, except Sorn Castle. This castle, which stands upon a rock overhanging the river Ayr, and within a short distance of the church and manse, is supposed to have been erect- ed at a very early period, but by whom is unknown. There is, however, a tradition, that the labourers who were engaged in build- ing it had their option either of a peck of meal or l^d. per day. The following short but well-authenticated narrative of its proprie- tors was communicated to Dr Gordon, the eloquent and benevo- lent writer of the last Statistical Account of the parish : ^^ About the year 1406, the lands of Sorn, with several others in the dis- trict of Kyle, were acquired by Andrew Hamilton, third son of Sir David Hamilton of Cadzow, ancestor to the Duke of Hamilton. This Andrew Hamilton married Agnes, a daughter of Sir Hugh Campbell, Sheriff of Ayr, and by him had a son. Sir Robert Ha- milton of Sorn and Sanquhar. Sir Robert married a daughter of Sir William Crawfurd of Loch Norris ; and Sir William Hamil- ton of Sorn and Sanquhar, a son of this marriage, was one of the Senators of the College of Justice, and Lord Treasurer to King James V. This Lord Treasurer married a daughter of the fami- ly of Cassillis, by whom he had an heiress, Isobel Hamilton, who married George Lord Seaton, and by him was mother to Robert, first Earl of Winton, to Alexander, first Earl of Dunfermline, and Margaret, the wife of Claud Hamilton, Lord Paisley, ancestor to the Earl of Abercorn. The lands of Sorn were sold by the suc- ceeding Earl of Winton to the family of Loudon, and, after re- maining in this family upwards of 150 years, they were sold to William Tennent, Esq. of Poole, in 1782." Sorn Castle and estate, after being a short time in the possession of Mr Tennent, were sold by him to Mr Graham of Limekilns and Mr Stevenson of Dalgain, from whom they were purchased by the family of the present proprietrix about forty years ago. Sorn Ciastle was one of those places belonging to private individuals which Charles IL, in 134 AYRSHIRE. virtue of an obsolete act, took possession of, and which, amid the severe struggle made during the latter part of his reign by the Presbyterians for their privileges, was provided with a garrison and a governor for the purpose of overawing them,* Parochial Registers. — The parish registers commence in 1:692, when Mr Mungo Lindsay was ordained minister of the pa- rish, and have since been regularly kept The register of bap- tisms is not by any means complete, as parents belonging to diffe- rent dissenting bodies frequently neglect the registration of their children. Care, however, is taken to enforce this duty on parents belonging to the Establishment There is no record of deaths, although the minister, in the course of his visitations, is in the ha- bit of taking an exact account of them. Eminent Men. — The only person of eminence to whom this pa^ rish gave birth was Mr Alexander Peden, — a name familiar to the people of Scotland, and particularly so to the people of this district. The place of his birth, which happened in 1626, has been disput- ed, — some maintaining that it was at the farm of Auchencloigh, others that it was in one of the small cottages, which, in the re- membrance of persons now living, stood not far from Sorn Castle. Mr Peden having received at the University the education which was necessary to qualify him for the oflBce of the holy ministry, was for some time parish schoolmaster, precentor, and session-clerk at Tarbolton, and, according to Wodrow, precentor also at Fenwick, In 1663, he was settled minister of New Luce, in Galloway, but in about three years afterwards, he was, like other eminent servants of God in those troublous and persecuting times, forced to aban- don a flock most ardently and devotedly attached to him. From the time of his being thrust out of New Luce, he wandered about from place to place, sometimes in Scotland, and sometimes in Ire- land, till June 167d^ when he was seized in Carrick, and conveyed from thence to Edinburgh. After undergoing a series of hard- * A great eitent of judicial power seems to have been vested in these goyemors, as appears from a document now in the possession of Robert Campbell, Esq. of Auchmannoch, of which the following is a copy : " God save the King. <' I, Lewis Lauder, Govemour of Sorn Castle, dow heirby oertifie and declare, vis. ■ Kirkwood, servitor to Arthour Campbell of Auchmannoch, in the parish of Some, did compeir before me, on solemn oadi before Almightie God, did abjure and renounce the late tratours iqspoUogeticall declaration, in so far as it declares war against his Mattie (Mtyesty,) and asserts that it is lawful to kill all such as serve his Mattie in church, state, armie, or contrie, conform to his Mijestie's late proclama- tion of the do duye of Deer. last. " Given at Some, the aught day of February 1685 zicrs. << Lkwis Laudbr." 80RN. 135 ships of various kinds, and being cruelly treated in various ways, he returned to Scotland, which he reached in 1685, — the year when the persecution raged hottest in this and other districts of the country. At the imminent risk of his life, yet under the guid- ance and protection of a gracious God, who wrought out many signal deliverances for him, he visited different districts' of Ayr- shire and Galloway, preaching, and warning men in the most solemn manner of the awful judgments which the Lord, in conse- quence of the impenitency and apostacy of the people of Scotland, would at no very distant period bring upon them. At length worn out and exhausted, and apprehensive that his latter end was draw- ing nigh, he returned to his brother's house in this parish. But ^as Sorn Castle, in the immediate neighbourhood of which it was si* tuated, had, as has been already stated, a garrison of soldiers and . a governor for the purpose of overawing the people of the surround- ing district, and of bringing such leading men as Peden to condign punishment, he was aware that his arrival would soon become known, and that, unless he had some place of concealment, he must be detected. For this purpose, he caused a cave to be dug, and there he was in the habit of hiding himself. Though every moment in danger of being laid hold upon, he paid frequent visits to his friends, and uttered many prophecies respecting the fate which awaited the church and people of Scotland. On his death- bed, Peden was visited by James Renwick, that eminent saint and servant of Gt)d, and last martyr to the cause of civil and re- ligious liberty in Scotland, whose presence was a great source of comfort and refreshment to his spirit After having very narrow- ly escaped detection from his persecutors, who had searched every place in and about his brother's house for him, he died there in 1686, in the sixtieth year of his age. The laird of Auchinleck, who was favourable to the Presbyterian cause, allowed Mr Peden's re- mains to be deposited in the family burial-place within the church of Auchinleck. But the spirit of persecution, which raged with such fury in this district of Scotland at this period, followed Mr Peden even to his grave. Forty days after his burial, his corpse was raised by a troop of dragoons, with the intention, it is believed, of hanging it in chains on the gallows* at Cumnock. But this act of barbarity on the part of Mr Peden's persecutors was pre- vented through the intercession of the Countess of Dumfries and the Lady of the Laird of Affleck, and the dead body was taken down and re-interred at the foot of the gallows. Such, however, 136 AYRSHIRE. was the veneration in which the memory of this good man was held by the people of the surrounding district, that, in selecting a piece of burying-ground for the parish of Cumnock, the spot where Mr Peden's ashes lay was made choice of for the purpose, se that these now lie in the church-yard of Cumnock. Dr Matthew Stewart, late Professor of Mathematics in the Uni- versity of Edinburgh, and so well known over all Europe for his original genius and high attainments in geometrical science, though not a native, was a frequent visitor in the parish. At his death his property came into the possession of his son, the late Professor Dugald Stewart, one of the most distinguished metaphysicians of his day. Though not generally resident in the parish, in the ear- lier and more advanced period of his life. Professor Dugald Stewart spent a portion of his time in it The house which he occupied still stands ; and individuals stiU speak with delight of his unwearied benevolence, of his kindness and condescension to all who came within the sphere of his influence, particularly to those who he knew had been the objects of his &ther^s regard* Professor Stewart was succeeded, as an heritor of the parish, by his son. Lieutenant- Colonel Matthew Stewart, a distinguished soldier and an accomplished scholar. Ou' a very commanding situation on his property, and at a short distance fix>m the house which was occupied by his father, he has built a new dwelling-house, and laid off the grounds about it with great taste.* III. — Population. According to Dr Webster's account, the population of the pari&h in 177^1 vas - . . 1474 in 1797^ the date of the last Statistical Accoiint, 2779 Makt, Female*. By Government census, 1801, . 124S, - 1363, - 2606 1811, . 1462, - 1886, - 3348 1821, . 1725, - 2140, - 3865 1831, . 1900, . 2353, - 4253 At the end of 1886, - 1843, - 2277, • 4120 State of population in 1836. Males. Fetnalet 1 to 15, 815 824 15 to 30, 436 658 30 to 50, 352 507 50 to 70, 194 222 above 70, 47^ 1848 66-2277 * There is a well authenticated tradidon, that King James V. visited Som Castle on the occasion of the marriage of the daughter of his Treasurer, Sir William Hamil- ton, to Lord Seaton. It is generally believed, that it was while he was on this visit that his Migesty sat down by a well, about half-way between Glasgow and Som, to re- fresh himself, and hence the name ** King*s WeU" was given to iu 80RN. 137 Married. Males, - - 560 Females, - - 561 Widowers, - - d9 Widows, . T 184 Numbar of fiimilies in the parish, 846, averaging about 4^ to each family* Yearly average of births for the last seven years, - 120 registered, - - . 96 deaths about ... 68 marriages, - - . 32 There are no insane persons in the parish. There are two fa- tuous, and one deaf and dumb. The rapid increase of the popu- lation from 1775 to 1831, arose from the establishment of the cot- ton manufactory at Catrine, in 1792, by the late Claud Alexan- der, Esq. of Ballochmyle, and the late David Dale, Esq. ; and the decrease from 1831 to 1836 has arisen chiefly from the improve- ments which have taken place in machinery, by means of which, in some departments of that establishment, fewer persons are re- quired. In the country part of the parish, and in the village of Sorn, the population has varied little since the date of the last Statistical Account in 1797. Then it was 1429, and at the end of 1836, 1418, the difference being only 11 during that period. In the cotton manufactory, and in the bleachfield at Catrine, there are 913 persons employed, of whom 315 are males and 598 females. There are besides in the parish, 1 auctioneer; 1 land-surveyor; 3 brewers; 7 bakers; 4 butchers; 1 carding-miller ; 15 carters and carriers; 6 cloth-merchants; 1 cooper; 3 clock and watch- makers; 1 corset-maker; 4 cowfeeders ; 1 dyer; 1 forester; 13 grocers ; 9 grocers and spirit-dealers ; 5 gardeners ; 3 grain-mil- lers; 100 hand-sewers; 5 hawkers; 5 heddle-carders ; 7 inn-keep- ers; 2 keepers of lodgings; 4 knitters of stockings ; 3 manufactur- ers' agents; 34 masons ; 37 pim-flUers ; 1 portrait-painter; 2 painters; 4 painters of snuff-boxes; 1 plasterer; 9 snuff-box- makers ; 13 smiths ; 3 sewing-mistresses ; 53 shoemakers; 6 saw- yers ; 3 surgeons and druggists ; 2 spirit-dealers ; 2 slaters ; 3 students ; 4 straw-hat manufacturers ; 1 saddler ; 2 stocking- weavers ; 2 tambourers ; 12 teachers ; 4 tinsmiths ; 6 thatchers ; 16 tailors; 120 hand-loom weavers; 34 wrights; 5 white-seam- sewers. The remaining portion of the parish, with the exception of a few individuals who live upon their properties, consists of farm- ers, farm-servants, day-labourers, quarriers, and colliers. Character^ ifc. of the People. — The people of the parish are in general quiet, sober, and industrious. Most of them pay outward respect to religion, yet it is to be feared, as in other districts of the 138 AYRSHIRE. country, there is less of the power of religion among them than in times past. They are remarkable for their kindness towards each otbe^, particularly in seasons of distress. Should an individual be laid on a bed of sickness, and be unable to procure for himself the essentials of existence, his neighbours are generally ready to share their humble meal with him — to attend him night after night, should their presence be required, and, when death has closed his eyes, they are always ready to render any assistance in their power to administer consolation to the afflicted &mily. Though living in a comparatively remote district of the country, where there is little facility of attaining to a knowledge of the higher branches of education, the people of the parish are by no means deficient in the spirit of enterprise, or in ge- neral and scientific knowledge. Several individuals, natives of the parish, at this moment, fill most honourably prominent situations in society, some in this and others in distant lands. A consider- able number of the villagers in Sorn and Catrine have a small piece of ground attached to their houses, on which they raise po- tatoes and a few common vegetables, for the use of their families, the working of which forms a pleasing recreation to them after the toils of the day. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish is supposed to contain about 19,000 Scotch acres, of which about 7000 are in pasture after cultivation, about 3000 under crop or under rye-grass hay, about 600 in wood, about 3000 might, by a judicious application of capital, be brought into a state of cultivation, and the remainder is chiefly hill or moss. The value of the grain raised annually is about L. 7200 ; of rye-grass and meadow hay about L. 1716; of potatoes, beans, turnips, and carrots about L. 1517; of land in pasture, rating It at L. 3 per cow, and 6s. per sheep, L. 4320 ; dairy produce about L. 7000; of lime last year L. 600. The number of cows is about 1264» of sheep 2161, of horses 221 . The valued rental is L. 541 1 Scots, and the real rental about L. 7300. The rent of land on the higher ground varies from 128. to L. 1, 2s. but on the holms, on the banks of the Ayr, and in the neighbourhood of the villages of Sorn and Catrine, it is as high as L. 3 per acre, or even more. The crops chiefly raised in the parish are oats, potatoes, and hay. There also a few acres of wheat and barley, beans, turnips, and occasionally a small quantity of carrots. The rotation is generally two crops of oats, one of hay, and five years of pasture. In seve- ral instances a more improved system of farming has been recently SORN. 139 introduced, and that chiefly by those who have had recourse to furrow-draining. When this mode of draining was first introduced into Ayrshire, it was done by means of small stones ; of lale, how- ever, tiles have been substituted for stones, and are now to be easily obtained in this and in most of the neighbouring parishes. The impulse which this species of improvement has given to agri- culture, and the increase of produce, is very great This is strik- ingly exemplified in the glebe, which has been drained by the pre- sent incumbent Fields which yielded only from 3J to 4 bolls of oats per acre when he entered upon his charge, yield now about 7 or 8 bolls per acre. But perhaps one of the most remarkable examples of the good effects of furrow- draining is to be found on a piece of moss in the parish belonging to Archibald Buchanan, Esq. of Catrine Bank, who was, if not the first, at least amongst the first, who introduced this mode of draining into Ayrshire. This piece of moss, consisting of about 20 acres, averaging 14 feet deep, till within these few years, was lying in a worse than useless state, and the damp arising from it frequently mildewed the crops in the neighbouring fields. A&ev being drained and dug, about 40 bolls of lime, and 50 carts of compost, consisting of two-thirds clay, and one-third dung, were spread upon every acre. After this it was sown with oats, and the crop averaged about 6 and 7 bolls per acre. It has since been in sheep pasture, and yields a return of about L. 2 per acre yearly. Three acres of this moss have been green cropped, and yielded about dO tons of turnips per acre. The whole cost of cutting the drains, digging, lime, compost, and putting in the first crop, amounted to L. 14 per acre, and by these means, firom being worse than useless, the moss has become equally as valuable, if not more valuable than any arable land on the property on which it lies. Should this system of furrow-draining be carried to its greatest possible extent, it is to be hoped, that our country will not only in general be in- dependent of supplies of foreign grain, but become an exporting one. Wages. — The usual rate of wages given to a ploughman is firom L. 7 to L. 8 half-yearly ; to a dairy maid from L. 4 to L. 5 ; to married male servants who live in houses of their own from L. 10 to L. 12. Day-labourers receive about Is. 8d. per day ; females, when engaged in out->door work, about lOd.; masons and wrights about 2s. 6d. per day ; when hired for the harvest work of a sea- son, men receive about L.d) women about L. 2. Wages of weavers 1 140 AYRSHIRE. in this, as in other parishes^ fluctuate very much. Sometimes a good weaver may earn from Is. 6d. to 28. per day ; at other times only from 9d. to Is. Stock. — The cows in the parish are mostly of the Cunningham breed, and the sheep are the common black-faced. No particu- lar attention is paid to the breed of horses in the parish, which is to be regretted. For were farmers careful to have something of the blood horse in their horses, they would 6nd them much better fit- ted for every species of work, and better able to undergo fatigue than those now generally in use among them. Manufactures. — In the village of Catrine, and on a part of the estate of Ballochmyle, which still forms a part of the parish of Som, there are the very extensive cotton and bleaching^works belonging to Messrs James Finlay and Company of Glasgow. These works were commenced in 1786, by the late Claud Alex- ander, Esq. of Ballochmyle, and the late David Dale, Esq. mer- chant in Glasgow. At that time, where the village of Catrine stands, there were only two families living, — those of the miller and blacksmith ; now it contains a population of 2702 souls, whose chief support is derived from the cotton and bleaching works. In 1 80 1 , the cotton works were purchased from Claud Alexander, Esq. and David Dale, Esq. by their present proprietors, and have since been greatly enlarged and improved, particularly by the erection of an extensive bleaching work in 1824, and three very large water- wheels a few years ago. Two of these wheels, which are about 50 feet diameter, and estimated at 100 horse power each, along with two steam engines of about 40 horse power each, which are used occasionally in dry seasons to make up for any deficiency in the supply of water, and to insure regularity of motion, propel the machinery in the cotton manufactory ; and the third, which is about 32 feet diameter, aided by a steam-engine of twenty-five horse power, when there is a scarcity of water, propels the machinery in the bleaching establishment At Catrine, the cotton which is brought from Glasgow is spun, woven, bleached, finished, and put up for home sale and exportation, to suit the various markets. The weight of yam spun in 1836 was 951,973 lbs., and the quantity of. goods produced 172,175 pieces of 25 yards, or 4,304,393 yards, equal to 2445 miles. Besides bleaching that which is manu&c- tured at Catrine, there is also bleached at the bleachfield there the cotton cloth manu&ctured at the other works belonging to Messrs James Finlay and Company. The quantity of cloth bleach- SORN. 141 ed varies from 15 to 25,000 yards per day. The superior quality of the goods manufactured by the Catrine Company, and the manner in which they are bleached and finished, have obtained for them such a decided preference, both in the home and foreign markets, that individuals have in some instances assumed the mark of the Catrine Company, with the view of getting their goods more rea- dily disposed of. The bleaching process is completed within doors, and is carried on without interruption at all seasons of the year, and that, too, without the slightest injury being done to the cloth ; nay, with the advantages of superior purity and colour, and a vast saving of time in the process, as well as of land, which, when the old system of bleaching was adopted, was required to expose the cloth to the action of the sun's rays. In the Catrine bleaching- work there is a saving of from 150 to 200 acres of land. In the different departments of spinning, weaving, and bleaching, and in the making and repairing of machinery connected with the cotton and bleaching-works, there are 913 persons employed, besides masons, labourers, and others, who on an average may amount to 30 more ; and the whole money put in circulation, and paid at the Catrine works in 1836, amounted to L. 27,568^ 1 8s. The wages are paid every Friday ; and every thing is done to promote the moral and religious interests, as well as the comfort of the people connected with the works. Before the new regulations with re- gard to the education of the young persons employed in cotton- factories were introduced, the Catrine Company, at their own ex- pensej provided a schoolmaster, to whom all who were connected with the works had, and still have, access immediately after the labours of the day arc over, without any charge whatever. From 200 to 300 individuals have been in the habit of availing themselves of this privilege, thereby laying the foundation of future happiness and future usefulness to themselves and to others. When a stag- nation in trade occurs, and other works of a similar description suspend their operations wholly, or in part, the Catrine Company carry on their operations without intermission, and keep their workers in full employment. A goodly feeling has in consequence, with but little interniption, subsisted between the employed and their employers in the Catrine works. An attempt, it is true, was made about two years ago to destroy this goodly feeling by the formation of a union among the workers, and by a demand for an -increase of wages. This attempt, as generally happens in such cases, fail- ed, — much distress ensued, and the greater number of those who 142 AYRSHIRE. had been seduced from an establishment, where they had uni- formly been treated with all the kindness and consideration con- sistent with its proper management, returned, after the lapse of a few months, and solicited admission to their former situations. Ex- cept in the cases of those who took a leading part in this union, the applications of all were listened to, and the same harmony and good feeling which formerly prevailed in this establishment seem again to prevail, and, it is hoped, will long continue. The works at Catrine, as well as the workers, have uniformly excited the ad- miration of strangers ; and from the books of the General Friendly Society at Catrine, with which many of the persons employed at the Catrine works are connected, it is evident there is less sick- ness among the people employed at the works than among any otheff description of workmen in the village. The success of this establishment, and the comfortable circumstances of the indivi- duals employed at it, are mainly owing to the able and judicious management of Archibald Buchanan, Esq. the resident partner of Messrs James Finlay and Company, who has managed the works at Catrine almost from the time they passed into the hands of the present proprietors. Besides the weaving of cotton cloth by power- looms at Catrine works, there is in this, as in most of the parishes of Ayrshire where there is a village population, a number of hand- loom weavers.. The employment aiforded to this class of workmen is very precarious, and the remuneration when trade is at its best so very small, that whenever an opportunity occurs many individuals who follow this profession abandon it. In 1826 the number of hand-loom weavers in the parish was about 220, now it is only about 120. There is a grain-mill in the parish, which has attached to it a saw-mill, where, at a reasonable rate, a great quantity of wood is sawn. There is also a carding-miil, a brewery, and two licensetl private brewers in the parish. Several of the farmers have thrash- ing-mills attached to their farm^yards, which are chiefly driven by horses. Quarries. — There are at present three lime-quarries wrought in the parish ; — one on the estate of Sorn Castle, a second on the estate of Dalgain, and a third on the estate of Gilmillscroft. That on Sorn Castle has only been opened up this year, although it was formerly wrought a considerable time ago. Indeed, there is a well authenticated tradition, that the lime with which the old bridge at Ayr was* built was taken from that quarry. The quarries on Dal- SORN. 143 gain and Gilmillscroft have been wrought for a number of years. Last year their joint produce amounted to 9000 bolls. V. — Parochial Economy. Market^Tovms. — There are no market-towns in the parish ; but in the villages of Catrine and Sorn, there are a number of excel- lent shops, at which almost every article required for domestic use can be purchased as good, and on as easy terms as in large towns. Besides the regular supply of butcher-meat and vegetables which may be obtained daily from the butchers and grocers in the villages, there is an excellent market for butcher-meat and vegetables held every Saturday at Catrine village. Villages* — There are two villages in the parish, — Catrine and Sorn. The former contains 2700 souls, and the latter about 300. In Catrine, people are chiefly dependent for employment on the cotton and bleaching-works there, and in Sorn, with the ex- ception of about eight-hand loom weavers, they are chiefly agri-' cultural labourers, colliers, quarriers, and hand-sewers. Inns. — There are four inns in the village of Catrine, two in the village of Sorn, and one at Greenfoot, about a quarter of a mile from the village of Sorn, on the road from Galston to Auchin- leek. Means of Communication. — About six miles of the road from Ayr to Muirkirk, and about five miles of the road from Galston to Auchinleck, pass through the parish. There are penny-post offices in Catrine and Sorn, and the mail gig with the mail from Ayr and Kilmarnock for London, passes through the latter village every morning about seven o'clock on its way to Douglas Mill, where it meets the mail-coach from Glasgow to London, and waits the ar- rival of the mail from London to Glasgow. On receiving the letter- bags for Ayr, Kilmarnock, Cumnock, and Mauchline, it returns again immediately, and passes through Sorn about three o'clock p. m., bringing letters and papers from London in about forty-four hours. The coach from Glasgow to Dumfries passes through Mauchline, about four miles distant from Sorn, every lawful day, about three o'clocL There are carriers twice a week from Sorn and Catrine to and from Glasgow, leaving those places every Monday and Thursday, and returning again every Wednesday and Saturday. There is also a carrier from Catrine to Ayr every Tuesday and Friday, and from the same place to Kilmarnock on Tuesdays and Fridays. The Catrine Company despatch carts with goods to Glas- gow every law All evening, which, by means of a relay of horses on the 144 AYRSHIRE. the roady reach their destination early on the following forenoon. Carts are also despatched from Glasgow every evening with cotton and goods for the bleachfield, which reach Catrine every forenoon. There is a stone bridge over the Ayr, near the manse on the road from Galston to Auchinleck, which was begun and com* pleted through the exertions of the Rev. William Steele, the se- cond minister who was settled in the parish after its final sepa- ration firom Mauchline. There is^also an excellent stone bridge over the Ayr at Catrine, on the road from Mauchline to Muir- kirk through that village. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish of Sorn was originally a part of the parish of Mauchline, from which it was finally and complete- ly separated in 1692, when Mr Mungo Lindsay was ordained mi- nister, a stipend and glebe provided, and a manse built. The pre- cise year in which the church was built cannot be ascertained. The writer of the last Statistical Account represents it to have been built in 1656 ; but there is a stone in a part of the building which represents it to have been built in 1658. From Wodrow's history, it appears that a Mr John Campbell was ejected from Dalgsan in 1662 for non-<;ompliance with Episcopacy; and according to Cruickshanks, Mr Andrew Dalrymple, minister at Auchinleck, was ^^ indulged" to Sorn in 1669. Nor is it improbable that, previous to the Revolution in 1688, there was an Episcopal incumbent settled in the parish, as a tradition prevails that he was obliged to flee at thst period ; and a small pass at the side of the river Ayr, near Sorn Castle, over which he is said to have passed during his flight, is still called the Curate's Steps. It is not unlikely that he was one of those to whom Bishop Burnet alludes as being so obnoxious to the people, that they tore their gowns, and carried these in mock procession through their parishes previous to expelling them. In 1826 the church was thoroughly repaired, and the seating so ar- ranged as to accommodate about 50 persons more than formerly. It is conveniently enough situated for the parish, — has 611 sittings, of which 64 are set apart for the poor and those not otherwise en- titled to church accommodation. There is besides a chapel of ease in the village of Catrine, which was built by the late Claud Alexander, Esq. of Ballochmyle, in 1792, and cost L. 1000. In 1829, this chapel was purchased from the present Claud Alexander, Esq. of Ballochmyle, by the feuars of Catrine, who, by their feu- rights, are bound to maintain a chapel in connection with the Establishment, as well as a church-yard. This chapel, which eon- I SORN. 145 tains about 730 sittings, will, it is expected, in a short time be con- stituted a parish church, and the village of Catrine be assigned to its minister as a parish qtioad sacreu The present manse was built by the Rev. William Steele, to whom allusion has already been made, soon after he was settled minister of the parish, and that chiefly at his own expense, — the he- ritors having only granted him a small allowance for the purpose. Some additions have been made to it by succeeding incumbents, and, if thoroughly repaired, it might prove a comfortable manse for sometime to come. The glebe, including the ground on which the manse and office-houses stand, is about 9 Scotch acres. The stipend is 123 bolls of meal, 52 bolls of bear, of the old weight and measure of the county, and L. 37, 6s. 9d. A meeting-house in connection with tlie United Secession Church has recently been built at Catrine, but as yet no minister has been appointed to it This meeting-house has been erected, not in consequence of any recent accession in the parish to the re- ligious denomination with which it is connected, but chiefly, it is supposed, for the accommodation of those persons belonging to that body who have been in the habit of attending the meeting-houses at Mauchline and Cumnock. The number of persons in the parish belonging to the Esta- blishment is 3360, of whom 1299 are communicants. 760 belong to other denominations, chiefly to the United Secession. Educati&TL — There is one parochial school in the parish, with the legal accommodation and the maximum salary, situated close by the church, within about a quarter of a mile of the village of Sorn. There are, besides, in the rural district four teachers, and in the village of Catrine seven teachers, all of whom, with one exception, depend entirely on the school wages, which average about dd. per week. The exception is the teacher employed by the Catrine Cot- ton Company, who receives from them L. 50 a-year for teaching in the evening, the more advanced young persons engaged in their works, and about L. 30 annually for instructing during the day those who are under thirteen years of age, in terms of the factories' regulation bill. The number of the persona in the parish attend-^ ing school is about 500^ Libraries. — There are four libraries in the village of Catrin6 : one, called the Public Library, was instituted in 1814, consists of upwards of 600 volumes, and has 70 members, who pay L. 1 of entry money, and 2s. 3d, annually. The second is the New Pub- AYR. ' K 146 AYRSH1R£. lie Library, instituted in 1899, consists of upwards of 700 volumes^ and has about 100 members, wbo pay Is, d ontry money, and 4s. 4d. annually. The third is the Philosophical Library, which was instituted in 1825, consists of about 90 Yolumes, and has 24 members, who pay Is. of entry money, and Ss. annually. And the fourth is a library m connection with the Catrine works Sabbath school, consisting of 528 volumes, to which all the youiig persons attending the Sabbath school have access gratis. Friendly 5oeieft>a.-«-The only friendly society at present in the parish is in the village of Catrine* It was instituted in 1889, and remodcjled in 1882. There are 820 members, whose average annual assessment is about lis. 6d. The funds at present are L. 254, and L. 170 were paid last year to members claiming re* lief. Another Fri^Mlly Society was instituted in 1794, but was lately dissolved. Poor and Parechial Funds. — The number of poor on the roll at the end of 1886 was 88^ and the average allowance to each weekly was Is. 2^d. The average number for the last seven years was %, and the average allowance to each weekly during that pe« riod was Is. l^d. and a cart of coals annually. There are besides individuals who have received occasional relief. In 1886, the uwat^ her of persons who received occasional relief was 80, and the average sum granted to each was 1 Is. S^d. For the last seveo years the average number of persons receiving occasional relief yearly was 36, and the average sum allotted to each during that period was lis. 8|d. The relief thus granted is but small, yet, with the aid of friends and the kindness of neighbours, the greater propor«» tion of these poor persons have generally been supported in some degree of comfort. The whole amount expended on the poor of the parish, in 1886, was L. 135, Os. l^d., and the average amount for the last seven years was L. 113, Os. 3|d. annually. This sum is raised firom the collections at the parish church and the chapel at Catrine, the interest of L. 1 10, the result chiefly of some dona-» tions, mortcloth^money, small sums received at marriages, and a vohmtary assessment on the part of the heritcnrs. The mans^e^ ment of the poor's funds is entirely in the hands of the kirk-se»^ sion, who exhibit a statement of the money received and expend-* ed by them annually to the heritors. Fairs. — There are two fairs held at Som annually, — oaa on the second Tuesday of March, O. S., and tlie other on the first Mon- day of November, N. S. Ai the former, there is a great attend- MUIRKIRK. 147 ance of people from the surroiindiiig dislrict A good deal of busi* ness is transacted, and a number of cattle disposed o£ There is also a race run on this occasion^ which tends to increase the con* course of personsi At the latter, which has only JbeeD recently i»- itituted^ the attendance is but small. Fud. — The fuel used in the parish is peat and omiI \ peat in the higher districts, and coal in the villages and places adjacent Till of late, coal was found in considerable quantities in tfa« immediate neighbourhood of the village of Som, and the price was in conse- quence very moderate, Ss. per cart of 12 cwt» laid down at the doors of the villagers* At present the coal used in the parish is brought from the parish of Auchinleck, a distance of about four miles, and with the rise of price which has taken place in that ar- ticle during the present year, and the additional cost of cartage, a cairt of 12 cwt. ^ coals, laid down in the village of Som, costs 68» Sd* An attempt, however, is now making on an extensive scale to raise coal in the parish, and should it be success&d, of which there seems a probability, this district will, as in times past, be abundantly supplied with eoals^ and the dwellings of the poor and labouring classes be again cheered by that great alleviation erf the ills of poverty,^ — a comfortable fire. July 1837. PARISH OF MUIRKIRK. PRESBTTBRY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR* THE REV. JAMES SYMINGTON, MINISTER.* L — TOPOOEAPHY ANJ> NaTUKAL HiSTDEY* Name. — Muirkirk is the mosi easterly parish of the county of Ayr, and was known in former tiaokes, by the title of ^^ the Miiirkiik of Kyle*" Until about the year 1626^ it oonstitnted a part of the parish of Maiwhline, and was subject to the jurisdiction of the Earls of Loudon. A separate proYisioo was at that time made lor a minister, and a building erected for public worship. Extent^ Sfc. — The parish is about 8 miles in length from east * Drawn up by tlie late incumbent, the Rev. Alexander Brown. 148 AYRSHIRE. to west, and 7 miles broad from north to south. Its area must therefore contain 56 square miles, or above 30,000 acres. It is bounded on the east and south-east, by the parishes of Douglas and Crawfdrdjohn; on the north and north-east, by the parishes of Avondale and Lesmahagow; on the south and south-west, by Auchinleck ; and on the west and north-west, by Som and Gal- iton. . Topographical Appearances. — Its surface is uneven, often rising into considerable eminences, covered with dark heath, and presents nothing either grand or striking to the beholder. The highest bill in the parish, or indeed in the county, is called Cairntable. It has two cairns or heaps of stones upon its top, and is 1650 feet above the level of the sea. Breccia or pudding-rock enters largely into its composition, which is here formed of small pieces of quartz minutely mixed with sandstone, and nearly as hard as granite. It supplied for many years the millstones used in the parish for grinding oats, and I make no doubt it would still be found admirably adapted for this purpose. Tradition also asserts that it was a place of worship. The level land is mostly to be found near the banks of the rivers — the adjoining land rising sometimes into gentle eminences, and at other times swelling abruptly into hills. These again run- ning into each other, and, gradually ascending, form the boundary of the parish nearly in all directions, and at a medium altitude of about 1000 feet. The prevailing winds are from the east and south. During a thunder storm about four years ago, a water-spout fell on the farm of High Priesthill, possessed by Mr Weir, near the nor- thern extremity of the parish, which washed away about thirty acres of land, and otherwise did considerable damage. From the altitude of the parish, and from the great extent of moss earth constituting its surface, fogs are frequent and rain abundant The torpid moss earth engenders cold, and the great quantity of mois- ture retained upon its surface is a fruitful source of vapour, render- ing the air hiimid and disagreeable. The evaporation, however, from moss seems not to prove injurious to the constitution. The plants which go to the formation of this earth do not, as on lands covered with rich herbage, putrify and render the air unwholesome. Being possessed of an antiseptic quality, they remain long in their original form and consistency. Hence the copious exhalations, drawn from a source so cold and damp, may indeed benumb vege- MUIRKIRK. 149 tation, but do not affect the health of the inhabitants. There are, therefore, no particular diseases incident to the parish which are the result of moist air ; n'or any other diseases that are not common to other parts of the country. Hydrography. — There are many excellent springs in this parish, but none of them present any thing peculiarly interesting, if we ex- cept a few which possess the power of petrifaction. These springs are not strong, but the process can be distinctly seen. The moss which grows on the edge of each of the springs is generally about two inches high. The moss is green and flourishing on the top, the middle appears as if half-frozen, and the lower part is converted into stone. I am not aware that any springs have been found pos- sessing medicinal qualities, but it is not unlikely that there may be a few unknown impregnated with sulphur, iron, or other mineral in- fusion. There are no natural lakes, but two artificial lochs or reservoirs were formed about the year 1802, at Glenbuck, in this parish, by Messrs James Finlay and Company, of Glasgow, to supply their cotton works at Catrine. They cover 121 acres of land. The water of Ayr, which is the second river in point of mag* nitude in the county, rises immediately out of the reservoirs al*- ready mentioned ; and, after running a distance of thirty miles, falls into the Frith of Clyde at Ayr. It is augmented by a number of lesser streams before leaving the parish, amongst which may be mentioned the waters of Garpel, Greenock, and Whitehaugh. Geology and Mineralogy. — There is an extensive field of coal and other minerals, forming a portion of the great coal-field of Scotland, which runs from east to west about seven miles, and is, on an average, about one mile and a-half broad. The thickness of the coal at present wrought is 24 feet 4 inches ; but, altogether, there will be nearly 40 feet of workable coal. There are also twenty-four bands of ironstone, of the average thickness of 6 inches. The line of dip is irregular. In the northern portion of the coal field, it is greater than in the southern, varying from one foot in two, to one foot in seven, and, in some portions of the outcrop, it is nearly vertical ; while in the southern portion it seldom varies more than from one foot in two and a half, to one foot in three and a half, and some portions are lying nearly flat There is an immense number of slips or fallings, which are found to lead about 30^ south- east and north-west They are found straight or in an oblique 150 AYRSHIRE. directioiii according as the substance is hard or soft, through which they pass, and vary in wideness from a quarter of an inch to four or five feeL When these slips are' wide, the coal on each side of them is generally bad, the strata bent in the direction of the slip, and the coal beds much thinner. There are three stages or dikes found in this coal-field, varying in thickness from 2 inches to 122 feet, composed of greenstone, porphyritic claystone, and calcareous spar. The coal is always bad near these stages. Its natural fissures are filled with sulphate of lime, or iron pyrites, which increase as they approach the stage, until the coal becomes a mass of black sooty matter, called by the miners dander coal, resembling charcoal in its colour and specific gravity. The thickness of the stage de- termines in general the extent of this coal, as it is to be found lying on each side of it in the proportion of one-half of its thick- ness, and is always arranged in columns resting upon the stage. The coal in this parish is the independent formation of Werner, and the rocks to be found are generally those which are connected, and have a strong affinity with it, viz. conglomerate, sandstone, limestone, slate-clay, porphyritic claystone, bituminous shale, clay, ironstone, greenstone, &c. Vegetable remains are to be found in only two of the seams of coal, in the roof of one and mixed through the other. Shells perfectly white are to be found in the ironstone clay, and numerous vegetable impressions in the iron- stone. The most perfect, however, are to be found in the lime- stone and indurated clay connected with it. The smaller impre»* sions appear to be of such plants as flourish in marshes and woods, and the leaves and stems of the larger resemble those of palma and ferns. Ores, — Iron ore, lead, and manganese have been found, and the two former wrought, but the experiment was given up, the veins being found poor and unproductive. Soib* — Sand, clay, gravel, loam, and moss are the principal allu- vial deposits. They are to be found of various thicknesses. The moss in particular varies from one to twenty feet. Entire hazel- nuts have been found in the latter, and large trees of oak, fir, and birch are abundant Moss is the principal soil, covering at least two-third parts of the surface of the parish, and to be found in three different secies, as flow-moss, bent-moss, and hill-moss. The principal plants, according to Mr Aiton, which go to the for* nation, and which are to be found on these diflierent mosses, are, — MUIRKIRK. 151 « \tt, Fi Juncus squarrosus, nua. White bent, • Nardus strictus. Marsh fog, - Sphagnum palustre. Turfy club rush, - Seirpus caespitosus, With gowk-bear, stool bent, white bent, Tormentil, * IWmentilla officii tormentil, ana various oi the sedge > nalis, grasses (Carices.) ilf»itfi.-^ There are numerous mines of coal, ironstone^ andlime^ «11 wrought upon the most approved plans. The principal seam of coal being thick, and the rise moderate, rail-roads are laid, and horses employed to drag the coal and ironstone from the rooms and other workings to the bottom of the shaft. As in other parts of Scotland^ a part only of the stratum is excavated in the 6rst working of the pit^ the other part being left as pillars to support the roof* The miners are much troubled with choke damp or carbonic acid gas ; but never with inflammable damp or carburet-* ted hydrogen ga& Natural woods.^-'lt appears from a charter granted to the monks of Melrose by the Grand Stewart of Scotland, that this and the neighbouring parish of Sorn were a forest in the end of the twelfth century. That it was, at one time, covered with trees is abundant-^ ly evident, from the names of many of the farms, from the trees found in mosses, and from small clumps and detached trees of birch and mountain^-ash still to be seen on braes, and by the sides of narrow ravines. To whatever cause the destruction of these trees may be attributed, it is much to be regretted. In a hilly country such as this, the want of shelter is severely felt ; and the prostrate trunks and branches, by obstructing water and assisting in the formation of moss earth, must have proved highly injurious to the climate. The Honourable Keith Stewart^ who became proprietor by purchase about forty years ago, of the greater por- tion of the land in this parish, judiciously planted numerous belts near the water of Ayr. They are composed mostly of larch, spruce, and fir; but whether from carelessness, bad management, or the trees not suiting the soil, some of them have made but lit* 152 AYRSHIRE. tie progress. Other proprietors have since followed his example* The land planted is no doubt small in proportion to the extent of the parish, but it has contributed much to the comfort and beauty of the place.^ II. — Civil History, The ancient history of this parish is hid in impenetrable ob- scurity. There are many single stones still standing, which, in all likelihood, were erected, to commemorate events at the time con- sidered sufficiently important, the knowledge of which is now com- pletely gone. Tradition, ever busy, endeavours to account in many different ways for their erection ; hut tradition will be found too often associated with fable to be trusted. There are no writ- ten memorials — no distinguishing mark or hieroglyphic to be found on the stones themselves, which could lead us positively to affirm that they were erected to perpetuate either the memory of some petty skirmish or fallen chief; and (with the exception of one on the farm of Laighshaw, possessed by Mr Murray, which is about eight feet high,) they are too small and unimportant to be asso- ciated with any former religion. There are, however, other monu- ments of a later and most unhappy period of Scottish history, which tell but too unequivocally of the sufferings and death of our brave progenitors. The most remarkable of these monuments is the gravestone of one John Brown, erected on the farm of PriesthilL The death of this man was perpetrated with such cold-blooded cruelty, near his own habitation, and in presence of his wife and family, that to visit his grave is considered a sort of pilgrimage by the pious of all persuasions. The stone bears that he was shot through the head by a party commanded by Graham of Claver- house, while upon his knees, and in the act of prayer. It is said that Claverhouse, or one of his party, lifted up his dead body, and carried it to his wife, asking her, " what she thought of her hus- band ?" " Mair," said she, « than ever I did, but the Lord will avenge this another day." ♦ A new monument has lately been erected on the site of the old one, suitable to the taste and libe- rality of the present times, Land'ovmers. — The chief land-owners are, His Grace the Duke of Portland ; the Right Honourable the Earl of Douglas; the Right Honourable the Earl of Hyndford ; the Honourable Colonel M* Adam Cathcart of Craigengillan ; Mr Blackwood of • Old Statistical Account. 4 MUIRKIRK* 153 Hall; Alexander Aird of Crosflatt, Esq. ; William Brown, Esq. of Greenock Mains; John Gemmil of Auldhouseburn; James Allison of Tardoors ; the Reverend Dr Anderson of Waterhead ; and a few other smaller proprietors. Parish Registers. — Before the year 1772 the parish registers are very imperfect and irregular ; but since that period they have been regularly kept The first entry is dated in the year 1739. IIL — Population. The population previously to the erection of the iron works, to be mentioned afterwards, must have been small, — the parish being a pastoral district, and the farms large. The present increase is no doubt owing to the establishment of these works ; but the po* pulation is constantly fluctuating, — the iron company increasing or diminishing the number of workmen as the trade will allow. The number of inhabitants in the villages of Muirkirk and Glenbuck is, 1215 country, ... leoi The yearly average of births for the last seven years is • 100 of deaths, ... 25 of marriages, ... 80 The average number of persons under 15 years of age is - 1256 betwixt 15 and do, . - 689 ' 90 and 50, - - 567 50 and 70, . - 244 upwards of 70, . . 60 Number of landed proprietors of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, 10 unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers of 50 years of age and upwards, - , • - - - 43 unmarried women upwards of 45 years, - - 98 Number of fitmilies, ....... 576 chieBy employed in agriculture, • - - 55 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, - 505 IV. — Industry. Agriculture.'^ Ks the whole land in the parish has not been measured) — as it is for the greater part lying uninclosed, and the sheep husbandry occupying the principal care and attention of the farmers, little land in comparison is cultivated, and that, little as it is, cannot be exactly stated in statute acres. But the pro- bable quantity of land under tillage annually may amount to about 1000 acres, and the number of acres which never have been culti- vated may be stated at about 25,000. * The number of acres that might with a profitable application of capital be added to the cultivated land of the parish is very considerable ; and, with a few * These numbers appear inconsistent with the real amount of acres in the parish, which is 90,000. Th94000 acres not mentioned above have been in crop, although not in tillage annually, and cannot, therefore, be added to the land that Has never been cultivated. 154 AYRSHIRE. exceptions, the whole sur&oe might be brought to yield a far great- er abundance of permanent pasture. /%]ii/«h'(ms.— ^The plantations on the property of His Grace the Duke of Portland cover nearly 200 acres of land, and I should appose that 20 acres more will be found round the seats of rest- dent proprietors. The trees generally planted are larch, spruce, and fir, and, though much neglected formerly, his Grace has, since acquiring the property, paid considerable attention to thinning. Bent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1 per acre. A cow's grass is L. 3, and a full-grown sheep Ss. 6d. Livestock* — The most approved breed of sheep is the blade** faced kind. Considerable care is always taken to select the strongest and best shaped ewe lambs to continue the stock ; and occasionally a few tups of the same kind are purchased, but of larger size and finer shapes, by better feeding and more skilful crossing. The attention of the fiirmer is fully awakened to the practicability of still further improvements; and I make no doubt, that, in a very few years, by a continuation of their care, this hardy and useful animal will become much more productive. There are numerous dairies of the best Cunninghame breed of cows. A number of young cattle of the same kind are reared an- nually, and care is always taken to retain the most handsome to improve the stock. A few young horses are also reared. The old system of taking two, and sometimes three, crops of oats without manure, and allowing the land to rest for a few years to recover its lost energies, is still followed by a few of the farmers in this parish. By far the greater number, however, are farming, what land has been converted into arable, after the most approved systems of husbandry. Green cropping has of late years greatly increased, and, in all likelihood, will increase, and a portion of waste land has been retained : but there are many thousand of acres still lying in their natural state. Surface-draining alone would Improve the grasses on this soil, ameliorate the climate, and enhance the value of stock. Lime and coal are abundant and cheap. In short, every requisite is at hand were it but applied. The spirit of improvement is, however, awakened. The Duke of Portland, with his usual public spirit and wisdom, is opening roads through his property, and building lime kilns. Other prc^rietors deserve to be mentioned, and in particular Mr Aird ; who has im- proved a great extent of moss land. There are many tenants also MUIQKIRK. 155 who have, at their own expense, improved their farms by surface- draining, liming, and ploughing. The leasee run from seven to fifteen years. F€a7n'Buildiiiffs,^^The farm-houses are comfortable, many of them having been lately erected, but the out-houses wrfi in gene- ral miserable. The stables and byres are small and unsuitable, — little or no convenience for dairy husbandry, and, taken as a whole, inconsistent with the extent of the farms, and the improvements of the present times. There are few fences, composed mostly of stone, and in many instances ill constructed, and in a ruinous con- dition. Produce, — It is impossible to give a correct account of the value of the raw produce, but it may be nearly as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds* whether cultlTRted for the food of man or the domettic animals, - - - - L. 2700 Of potatoes and other plants cultivated in the fields, - - 2U00 Of hay, meadow and eu1tiTated« ... 850 Of land in pasture, ratioff it at L. d, per cow graced ibr the season, and at 9s. 6d. per ewe, or mlUgrown sheep pa&tured for the year, • 8450 Of the annual thinning and periodical felling of wood, • - 90 Of mines, whether coals, quarries, or metals,— ^ay. - - 10,000 Total amount of mw produce, aa £ir as can be stated, - L. 18,^20 Manufactures^^^The only manufectory in the parish is that of iron. Very extensive iron works were erected in 1787. These works con- sist of three large blast furnaces for making pig-iron, an extensive foige for making bar-iron, with a foundery and inferior works. Two of the blast furnaces only have been going for a number of years, and these employ about 400 workmen, who work six days in the week, and eight hours per day. The materials used in making iron are ironstone, coal, and lime, and it takes 2 tons 12 cwt« of ironstone, 8 tons 12 cwt. of coals ; and 19 cwt and 3 quarters of lime, to make one ton of pig iron. Founders esteem it soft, easily melted, and of the best quality. The bar iron is also very superior, being lit- tle if at all inferior to the best Swedish iron. This proceeds partly from the coals used in manufacturing it being nearly free of sul- phur, and partly from the manner of beating out the bars, instead of drawing them out by rollers as in other iron works. The coal field and other minerals under lease by the present Company are extensive, and we may look forward to this manuCac- tory supplying for many years the means of wealth to all parties concerned, and promoting, as it ha5 hitherto done, the agricultural interests of the parish. 156 AYR9HIRE. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Towns — Means of Communication. — There are two vil* lages in the parish, Muirkirk and Glenbuck, The latter village was an appendage to the iron-works erected at that place, and car- ried on for some time by an English company. These works were given up many years ago, and the village has since fallen into de- cay. Muirkirk is a thriving village, and is also indebted for its pre- sent extent to the iron-works already mentioned, erected in its neighbourhood. ' The nearest market-town is Strathaven, situated at a distance of thirteen miles, to which there is an excellent road. The road from Edinburgh by Douglas-mill to Ayr passes through it ; and there is a good road to Mauchline, which is distant fourteen miles. Some of the parish roads have been lately repaired out of the statute-labour collected from the inhabitants, and it is expect- ed that the remaining roads will be made and repaired ere long out of the same fund. There is a post-office. There are several bridges in the parish, particularly on the line of the Edinburgh road, in tolerable repair. The canals and rail-roads are connect- ed with the iron-works, and limited in their extent. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated near the centre of the parish, and is as convenient as it possibly can be for the greater part of the inhabitants. It will be between four and five miles from the extremities. It was built about twenty years ago, and has lately undergone a thorough repair, and is capable of accommo- dating 1000 sitters. The manse has been repaired within the last four years, and is at present comfortable. The glebe extends to about 14 acres, has been greatly improved, and is now capable of raising almost any crop, The .stipend amounts to L. 150 per annum. There is only one meeting-house in the parish, belonging to the Burgher persuasion. It has been only occasionally preached in for the last three years. The number of families attending the Esta- blished Church is ddO, and the number attending the meeting- house 45. Divine service is well attended, and the number of com- municants 400. Education. — There are four schools in the parish. The parish schoolmaster receives a salary of L. 28 per annum, with free house and garden. About 70 scholars attend. Altogether his emolu- ments, exclusive of house and garden, may amount to L. 80. The branches taught are Greek, Latin, English, writing, arithmetic, and MUIRKIKK. 157 book-keeping. The other schoolmasters teach English, writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping, and are supported by the scholars. Libraries, — There are two circulating libraries supported by subscription. The members are numerous, and the collection of books large and well selected. Friendly Societies, — There are three friendly societies ; the Muirkirk Friendly Society commenced on the dd of July 1790 ; the St Thomas Mason Lodge Friendly Society has existed about thirty years, and the St Andrew's Mason Lodge Friendly Society about twenty years. All these societies have been productive of much good, by promoting industry, and exciting a spirit of independence. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons that receive parochial relief in one year is 40, and the sum allot- ted to each varies from 5s. to 6s. per man. This sum is procured from the weekly collections at church, and by an assessment on the heritors half-yearly when needed. The poor inhabitants are not by any means backward in applying to this fund for relief. There are few beggars, however, belonging to the parish ; but being a thoroughfare from the coast to England, whole families of poor Irish are usually to be found begging. Strangers, and starving, they must be assisted ; but it turns the supply for the poor at home into a different channel, and imposes a heavy burden upon the charitable and humane. Fairs. — There are three fairs in the year held for agricultural purposes. They are of little importance, and but thinly attended. Lins. — In this, as in almost every other part of the country, there are by far too many houses of public entertainment. There are ten inns and alehouses, and their effects upon the morals of the people decidedly bad. Fuel — Coal is used for fuel in the village, which can be pro- cured at the rate of 2s. 6d. for 14 cwt., and the country part of the population use peat and coal indifferently. General Observations. Agricultural improvement has made rapid progress in the west of Scotland within the last fifty years ; and in no place has its be- neficial effects been productive of greater good than in this parish. Since the date of the last Statistical Account much has been ef- fected in meliorating the climate, by relieving the surface of its stagnant water. Many fields have been brought under cultivation which were formerly covered with heather. The plantations then in their infancy have arrived at maturity, and prove, small as thev 158 AYRSHIRE. are, wonderfully beneficial ; and the value of land has graaily in- creased. But though nuch has been done» there is still a wide field for improTement The parish is still almost void of enclo- sures ; and without these, little can be expected from the most u^ dustrious tenant By far the greater portion of the bill land is st31 overburdened with moisture, and destitute of shelter, — draining, therefore, and planting ought to be particularly attended Uk The sheep-walk should be separated from the improvable land 1^ stone dikes, and hedging and ditching used for dividing it into suitaUe enclosures. The larger fitrms ought to be reduced in size, as I am afraid little will be effected in the inbringing of land, so long as the farmer's whole attention is engrossed with his sheep stock. Much of the parish still resembles an unexplored region, — thousands of acres are to be found in a state of nature, which oould be easily added to the cultivated land. If the waste land m this and many other parts of Scotland were reclaimed, it would add greatly to the resources of the country, be afiruitful source of profit to the proprietors, and the means of promoting the happiness and comfort of the labouring-classes. July 1837. PARISH OF MAUCHLINE. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JOHN TOD, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name." The name of this parish was formerly spelled Macb- lein, or Machlene, or Machlin ; but of late it is more commonly qpeUed Mauchline, — Mayh signifying ^^ a field or meadow,** and <* Km or Kntu** a pool or lake. MagKUmnt, pronomiced by the Scots who succeeded the Gael, Maehlin or MauehKne, is the lake^ field or meadow, and this etymology of the name corresponds with its original local description. As the fields around the town of Mauchline abound with numerous springs, they must ha?e been anciently a marsh or meadow. MAUCHLINE. 159 Extent^ jBoiasAimt.--«The parish of Maucbline lies in the cen« tre of the county of Ayr, is about 8 miles in lei^h, and from 2 to 4 in breadth, containing about 24 square miles. It is bound- ed on the north, by the parishes of Craigie and Galston ; on the east, by the parish of Sorn; on the south, by the parishes of Auchinleck and Ochiltree ; and on the west, by the parishes of Stair and Tarbolton. Topographical Ajq^eartmces* — The parish is in general flat, ex-* cepting Maucbline hill, which rises a little to the north-east of the town, and runs in a ridge, frcmi east to west, about a mite in the parish, terminating at Skeoch hill, in the parish of Tarbohoo. From the hill, there is a very extensile prospect, not only over a great part of Ayrshire, but as far as Cairnsmure, and other hills in Galloway, and Benlomond, Jura, Arran, Kintyre, &c. This hiU forms part. of what is commonly known by the hng ridge of Kyle* It rises about 1000 feet above the level of the sea» The air is milder and more temperate here than towards the eastern coast of Scotland. Owing to its proximity to the western coast, it is rather wet ; but, upon the whole, not unhealthy, neither are there any diseases peculiar to this parish. Hydrography. — There are numerous perennial ^rings in the parish, particularly where the town is built, but as none of them have been analyzed, their chemical properties are unknown. The only loch in the parish, called Lochbrown, is about three miles north-west from the town. It covers sixty acres of ground. It would have been drained many years ago, bad it not been for the sake of two corn-mills which it supplies with water. Wild- ducks, geese, and sometimes swans resort to it. The river Ayr runs through this parish^ about a mile south of the town. In its course, it passes between ste^ rocks of red free- stone, from forty to fifty feet high. How this passage was form- ed, whether by some convulsion of nature, or by the water gradu* ally forming a channel for itself, cannot now be ascertained. The scenery is beautiful and romantic On its banks there are various caves cut out of the solid rock, similar to those at Auchinleck, of which £>r Johnson has taken notice in his Tour to the Hebrides. One of them is known by the name of Peden's Cave, where it is said Alexander Peden (whose name is so familiar to the inhabitants of the west of Scotland) often concealed himself during the un- happy time of the persecution. About half a mile above Barskimming, the seat of Lord Glen- 160 AYRSHIRE. lee, the Ayr is joined by the waters of the Lugar. It afterwards runs a course of ten miles, and join^ the Frith of Clyde at the town of Ayr. Geohtgy. — The soil in the parish is variotis^ for the most part of a clayish nature, except some fields about Mauchline, which are of a light sandy or mixed kind. A few fields consist of a deep loam, well adapted for every kind of crop. On the south side of the pa- rish there are extensive strata of red freestone, in many places up- wards of forty feet in depth. On the north side, white freestone, limestone, ironstone, and also coal abound, but the thickness of the strata is inconsiderable. Botany. — The following is a list of the more rare plants in the parish, and the spots where they are to be found : Vaccinium oxycoccos^ creeping bilberries or cranberries, found on the rocks near the Ayr; Asperula odorata^ sweet-scented woodruff; Campa- ntda urtidfolia^ nettle-leaved bell-flower, — these two are found in woods : Botrychium lunaria, moonwort, found upon the plea- sure-ground of Barskimming; Scolopendrium officinarumj harts- tongue ; Hypericum Androscemum^ tutsan, St John's wort ; Vinca minor^ less periwinkle ; these three found in the woods on the banks of Ayr : TroUius EurapcBus^ globe-flower, also on the banks; Drosera rotundifolia, round-leaved sundew; Drosera longifoKa^ long-leaved sundew ; Camarum pabistre, marsh cinquefoil ; the three last, found in the Kipple moss, on the estate of Barskimming : Serapias latifolia^ helleborine, under the shady beeches : Daphne laureolof spurge-laurel ; Lycoperdon tuber ^ truffle, found among the woods in various parts. • Soil. — The soil seems well adapted for the growth of trees, the young plantations being remarkably thriving. They consist most- ly of firs, ashes, oaks, and beeches. On the estate of Barskim- ming there are larches of very great dimensions. They were among the first of the kind that were brought to this country. They were at first carefully preserved in hot-houses. They are now the tallest trees in the woods. In the churchyard of Mauchline, in the centre of the town, there is an ash 15 feet in circumference, containing upwards of 300 solid feet. On its top a colony of rooks have fixed their residence. The age of this tree is unknown. II. — Civil History. There is no connected history of the parish. It was once a priory, belonging to the Abbacy of Melrose, and when that abbacy was MAUCHL]NE. 161 erected into a temporal lordship, the lands ^nd barony of Kiles- mure and Barmure, and the patronage of the church of Mauchline, were given to the Lord of Loudon. This parish formerly includ- ed the parishes of Som and Muirkirk, and a great part of the pa- rish of Tarbolton. There is no tradition of any battle in the pa- rish, except one, at MaucMine Muir, between the King's party and the Covenanters, about the year 1647, when the former was defeat- ed, and their military chest was found, it is said, many years after, hidden in the ground. Upon the farm of Mosgiel, in this parish, Bums resided nearly nine years. Here he composed some of his most celebrated poems. While living here, by the advice of his generous patron, G. Ha- milton, Esq. he published the first edition of his poems, which have immortalised him as Scotia's bard. Land-owners.^The chief land-owners are, Claud Alexander, Esq. of Ballochmyle ; His Grace the Duke of Portland ; Lord Gleniee ; Sir James Boswell of Auchinleck, BsltL ; William Campbell, Esq. of Netherplace; George Douglas, Esq. of Roding- head ; Mrs Wallace of Cairnhill ; Colonel Stewart of Catrine ; and Captain Campbell of Ronghdyke. Parochial Registers. — The ancient parochial records are now lost Sometime before the Reformation, the Popish clergy per- ceived their interest declining, and their downfal approaching in the kingdom. To prepare for the worst, they sold their lands in small parcels for ready money, and then departed, carrying with them all their money and effects, and the books and registers be- longing to this, and, it is believed, to other parishes in the neigh- bourhood. The date of the earliest entry in the parochial regis- ter is 17th January 1670. The whole records of the parish are contained in ten volumes. Till about eighty years ago, they were most irregularly kept, being written mostly on detached leaves, so that they are sdmost useless. Antiquities. — At the town-head of Mauchline, on the Green, there was a tombstone, from which it appeared that five men were put to death under the unhappy reign of James VIL of Scotland. Under their names were the following lines : > ** Bloody Dumbarton, Douglas and Dundee Moved by the Devil and Uie Laird of Lee, Dragged these five men to death with gun and sword, Not suffering them to pray nor read God*8 word ; Owning the work of God was all their crime. The eighty.five was a saint-killing time." In 1830, this tombstone was lifted-, and a monument erected by AYR. L 162 AYRSHIRE. subscriptiop in its place. On this monument the above inscription has been carefully preserved. Modem Buildings, — Among the modern buildings, the only one worthy of notice is the new church, opened for public worship on the 2d day of August 1829. The old church, after having stood upwards of six centuries, was found to be both inconvenient and unsafe, and was taken down in 1827, and the present church erected on the same site. It is built of red freestone, chiefly in the Go- thic style. It stands in the centre of the town, surrounded by the churchyard, which is used as the public burial-ground. On the east end of the church stands the tower, about 90 feet in height, and ornamented on the top with turrets. The inside of the church is plain, containing enclosed pews. The galleries are supported by slight cast-iron pillars. The pulpit is highly ornamented. The whole is well lighted. It is reckoned the most elegant church in this part of the country. I II. — Population. The population in 1755, according to Dr Webster, was 1169. Since that time it has been gradually increasing. The cause of the increase is not very obvious. It may arise in part firom the impor- tation of Irish, and partly from the encouragement given to weaving in this part of the country, by the Glasgow, Paisley, and Kilmar- nock manufactories. The population of the town of Mauchline in 1831j was . 1964 In the villages of Haugh and Auchznillan, . . . 1 15 In the country, . . . . . 753 Total, 2292 Hie average number of births for the last seven years, 67 deaths, .... 33 marriages, . . . . 19 persons under 15 years of age, 790 persons betwixt 15 and 90, . . 628 betwixt 90 and 50, . . . 445 betwixt 50 and 70, . . . 250 upwards of 70, . . . 78 The number of fiunilles of independent fortune, . ... 4 Proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50, .11 Unmarried men above 50 years of age, . . 91 women above 45 years of age, . 100 Average number of children in each fiimily, .... 4 ' Number of insane, 2 ; fiituous, 2 ; deaf and dumb, 1 ; blind, 1. Ntimber of families, * • • -^ • <440 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 99 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 220 The inhabitants are of a middle size, from 5 feet 4 inches to 6 leet 3 inches, and are in general of a strong and healthy constitu- tion. Within the last three years there were 15 illegitimate births in the parish. MAUCHLINE. 163 IV, — Industry. AffricuUure, — The whole of this parish is arable except a small moss of about six acres, and some declivities on the banks of the Ayr, now covered with plantations. All the farms are inclosed and subdivided. The total number of acres is 5732, of these 5400 are cultivated or. occasionally in tillage, leaving 332 under wood, either natural or planted. The kind of trees generally planted, is 6r, larch, ash, oak, beech, plane. On marshy ground the alder, willow, pop- lar, &c« are planted. The mountain-ash, hazel, birch, are indige- nous. The proprietors of the woods are careful in having them pro- perly thinned and pruned. Rent. — The average rent of arable land per acre is L. 1, 5s. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 3 per ox, or cow grazed, and at the rate of 15s. per ewe, or full-grown sheep pastured for the year, 15s. There is no stated rate of labour in the parish. Husbandry. — The principal improvement which has recently been made in agriculture is that of furrow- draining, and nothing but the expense of this plan prevents it from being generally adopt- ed. The few spirited individuals who have drained their land in this manner have been well repaid. In many instances, the value of the land has been doubled, and in some places what was for- merly barren has been rendered most fertile. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. Some land- owners let their land for a shorter period, but this is unfavourable to the occupier, as he is prevented from entering into any plan of im- provement, lest at the expiration of his lease, his farm should be let to another. Others let their farms from year to year, but this plan is injurious both to the owner and the occupier, as the lands remain unimproved, and the houses and fences are allowed to fall into decay. The greastest obstacle to improvement arises from the 4iigh rents paid for the land. Some proprietors imagine, that, by letting their ■ farms to the highest bidder, they will thus make more out of their estates, never' reflecting that the tenant will very soon be unable to pay them, or to carry any plan of improvement into execution, through want of capital The farm houses are in general large and commodious, particu- larly on the estate of Ballochmyle, (which contains about two-6fths of the whole parish.) The houses have almost all been 4ately built, two storeys high, slate roofed, with convenient office-houses. The farms are all inclosed and subdivided by thriving thorn hedges. Quarries. — There is an excellent red freestone quarry near the 164 AYRSHIRE. town, mostly employed for the building of houses. There are also other two of white freestone, near Deacon hill, about three miles to the north-west, the stones of which are much esteemed for their fine grain and colour, and, on account of their durability, are in re- quest for pavement, tombstones, &C Limestone, ironstone, and also coal abound, but, owing to the thinness of the strata, the raising of them has now been aban- doned. Produce,* — The following statement contains the average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as could be ascertained : Produce of grain of all kinds, either cultivated for food of man or the domestic animals, .... L. 6865 10 Of potatoes, turnips, cabbages, carrot and other plants cultiyated in the fields for food, - - - . 2172 5 4 Of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, . . 1 953 Of land in pasture, rated at L. 8 per cow, or full -grown ox graced for the season, ..... 3600 Of gardens and orchards, .... 250 Of the annual thinning and periodical felling of woods, plantations, and copse, - - - - - 500 Of quarries and metals, - - - 300 Of miscellaneous product not enumerated under any of the forgoing heads, - - - - 150 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 15,790 15 4 Manufactures. — Under this head may be mentioned, the woollen manufactory at the village of Haugh, which employs upwards of thirty persons, who work eleven hours a-day, and are engaged five days and a-half per week. They are chiefly employed in spinning yam for the carpet manufactory at Kilmarnock. Their wages de- pend upon the expertness of the workmen, as they are paid by the piece. In. the town of Mauchline there is a very extensive manufiictory of wooden snuff-boxes. In this work about sixty persons are em- ployed, who work ten hours a*day, and six days per week. The workmen are remunerated according to their knowledge of the art of box-making or painting. The stranger will be well rewarded by paying a visit to this work, as he will have an opportunity of seeing many elegant specimens of the art. The works are so conducted as to be injurious neither to the health nor the morals of the individuals engaged in them. V. — Parochial Economy. The town of Mauchline is situated on the south side of Mauch- * The above statement is exclusive of the produce of the dairy, which, valued at L. 7 for each cow, but from which the eipense of grazing must be deducted, will amount to L. 3656, and the sale of young cattle, which may amount to L. 800. MAUCHLINE. 165 line- Hilly about a mile distant from the river Ayr. It is neatly built, and contains 1364 inhabitants. It was formerly a burgh of barony ; but about 120 years ago the charter was lost, (when the Register Office at Edinburgh was burnt,) and it has never since been renewed. The principal branches of trade are, weaving, shoemaking, and snuff-box making. It is well governed by the baron bailie and the justices of the peace in the neighbourhood. Villages. — There are two small villages in the parish, Haugh and Auchmillan, the former containing 80, and the latter 35 in- habitants. Means of Communication, — Mauchline being situated nearly in the centre of the county, enjoys easy means of communication with the most distant parts of the country. It has a post-office under excellent management ; and there are two turnpike roads, which cross each other at Mauchline; the one, from Ayr to Edin- burgh, runs in the parish from west to east about four miles ; the other, from Glasgow to London, from north to south, about seven miles in the parish. Alongst this line of road a stage-coach passes twice every lawful day. Over the river Ayr there are several very useful bridges near Mauchline, particularly the new bridge at Barskimming, built by the late Sir Thomas Miller. It excels all the bridges in the county in beauty and elegance, and is one of the greatest curiosi- ties to be seen in it It consists of a single span, the length 100 feet, height 90. Ecclesiastical StdUe. — The parish church is situated in the middle of the town, nearly in the centre of the parish, in the most eligible situation that could have been chosen. It affords accommodation for 1 100 persons. The sittings at present are all free, — no division of the church having yet taken place. The manse was built in 1792, and is in good repair. The glebe consists of 7 acres of good land, and is worth L. 24 per an- num. The stipend consists of 15 chalders of grain, half meal and half barley, the price of which is regulated by the fiars price for the county* The number of Seceders is not great, there being only one dissenting chapel in the parish, belonging to those in connection with the Associate Synod, known formerly by the name of Burghers. Their minister is paid from seat-rents and from collections, — the amount of the stipend being L. 125. The num- ber of families belonging to the Established Church may be stat- ed, 363 ; persons of all ages, 1784 ; communicants, 600. The number of families belonging to the chapel, 83 ; persons of all 166 AYRSHIRE. ages, 448 ; communicants, 226. There are three Roman Catholics in the parish. A Bible and Missionary Society, in connection with the County Society, was instituted in this place in 1815. The amount of the contributions yearly was once L. 24, but since the dispute about pure circulation^ it has greatly fallen off, — now scarcely amounting to L. 14. The amount of collections in the parish church for religious and charitable purposes exceeds L. 70 annually. The church and chapel are in general well attended. Education,' — There are four schools in the town, and one at Crosshands, about two miles distant. There is only one parochial school, the other three in the town are unendowed. At the pa- rochial school, the branches of education taught are, English, writing, arithmetic, practical mathematics, Latin, Greek, and French. At one of the private schools, English, writing, arith- metic, Latin, and Greek are taught. The school in the country is endowed with a house and garden from the Duke of Portland. The parochial schoqlmaster has the maximum salary, a garden, and is allowed L. 9 for house-rent. The amount of school fees about L. 60. The expense of education per annum, for English, 10s.; writing, I2s.; arithmetic, 14s.; Latin, Greek, and French, 16s. The children are sent young to school, generally about five years of age, so that they are able to read and write before they are nine. The people are so far alive to the benefits of education, as to have all their children taught to read ; writing and arithme- tic are less attended to. There are none in the parish upwards of fifteen years of age who cannot read. Literature. — There is a public library in the town, and a reli- gious tract and book society. The books in the library are not numerous. However, additions are made to them yearly. 5s. is paid at entry, and 3s. annually. Charitable and other Institutions, — There are 8 friendly so- cieties in the town, the object of which is to make reciprocal pro- visions for their members while labouring under disease. Two of these societies have existed for twenty years. The funds of the one are L. 240; of the other, L. 160, — the entry-money and quarter- ly accounts according to the age of the individual. The present allowance is 4s. weekly to such as are unable to work, and 6s. if confined to bed. Their regulations have been sanctioned by the Quarter^sessions, and certified to be in conformity to the provisions MAUCHLINE. 167 of the late act of Parliament. These societies are most beneficial to the place. Tliey keep alive the spirit of independence, by prevent- ing any of their members from falling on the parish funds, and thus becoming regular paupers. A Savings Bank was established in 1815. The investments, mostly from the labouring classes, amount to L. 900 ; the sums an- nually invested about L. 140, while nearly as much is withdrawn. Poor and Parochial Fiinds. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid is 40. They are paid monthly, and receive 5s. each on an average. The funds arising from church collections, mortcloth dues, &c. L. 50 ; the annual expenditure, L. 120. The difference is made up by an assessment annually agreed to by the heritors. None receive parochial aid but the aged and infirm, such as are unable to work for their own support, and whose rela- tions are unable to maintain them. It is considered degrading, so that none but the necessitous make application. Prison. — About six years ago, a lock-up-house, consisting of two cells, was built in the town. It is not designed as a placQ of long confinement It serves the purpose of intimidating the dis- orderly. Fairs, — There are seven fairs in the town, chiefly for the buy- ing and selling of cattle. There is also a horse-race in the end of April. Innsy Alehouses^ Spc, — There are two very good inns, besides 15 alehouses and spirit-shops, but those who keep them commonly deal in other articles, as grocery goods, &c. Alehouses, &c. are evi- dently injurious to the morals of the people, as they lead to dissi- pation, with all its ruinous consequences. The justices of the peace in this district are careful that none obtain license but such as are of a good moral character. , Fuely consisting chiefly of coal, is brought from the neighbour- ing parish of Auchinleck, and also from the parish of Riccarton, a distance of eight miles, and costs 8s. per ton. Peat is procured from the parish of Sorn, and costs 4s. per cart. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account was written, many important alterations have taken place. The inhabitants are now better edu- cated, consequently more intelligent. Those superstitious obser- vances which were formerly counted oracular, and in which impli- cit confidence was placed, are now altogether neglected, or prac. tised merely for amusement. The existence of ghosts, witches, &c. is now discredited. Fanaticism and bigotry hide their dimi« 168 AYRSHIRE. nished heads. People of different opinions in religion now regard each other as brethren. The employments of the labouring classes have undergone a very great change. The erection of cotton-mills upon an extensive scale at the neighbouring village of Catrine (which have been conduct- ed with unexampled spirit and success) has diffused comfort and happiness to all around. Here the labourer finds employment, and here the farmer finds a ready market for his produce. Spinning, weaving, tambouring, and sewing, have been extensive sources of employment. Common weavers have built for themselves houses, planted gardens, and lived in a style of ease and comfort But there is a tide in the affairs of men ; within the last fifteen years, a variety of causes having brought on a stagnation in commerce, (the most extensive calamity of the kind that has ever been felt in this country,) which has swept away all the particular advantages of the weaver, till at last he is fully more the child of penury and toil than almost any other mechanic. Perhaps, with respect to real comfort, the labouring classes, taking them altogether, are at pre- sent rather behind what they were at the time of the last Statisti- cal Account The system of agriculture has also undergone a considerable change. Some thirty or forty years ago, this parish, like most of its neigh- bours, had gone far in adopting or imitating the agriculture of our eastern counties, and wheat, of course, formed the leading article in its cultivation ; nearly the whole stock of manure was annually ex- pended in supporting the new system ; bear and barley were nearly abandoned; even oats, which have always given, and which per- haps always will give, the most steady and certain return, began to be in a great measure neglected. Alongst with wheat, sUnimer fallow and green cropping were also adopted. But the system had not been many years pursued, before it was discovered that the soil and clipaate of this neighbourhood were decidedly unfavourable to its profitable continuance. So long, however, as the war prices for grain were obtained, the system was enabled to prolong its feeble existence ; but the return of peace, with the consequent peace prices of agricultural produce, seems now to have, in this quarter, finally sealed the fate of the system.. The soil of the pa- rish is not, indeed, generally suited for raising bear and barley, al- though a considerable portion of it is decidedly so ; and if to that portion of it only their cultivation were confined, they would most certainly yield a profitable return. Julj/ 1837. UNITED PARISHES OF MONKTON AND PRESTWICK. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. THOMAS BURNS, MINISTER. I.— Topography and Natural History, Nam^f History^ Sfc. — The parish of Monkton received that name from its connection with the abbey of Paisley, that monastery having extensive and valuable possessions within the parish, which required the residence probably, and superintendence of a certain number of the monks, who, in these early times, were the only class of persons acquainted with agriculture, the construction and management of mills, &c. &c. It appears from the chartulary of the abbey of Paisley, that the original name was Prestwick ; and that in 1163, when that abbey was founded, both the churches of the united parishes were then in existence, and both called by the same name of Prestwick, Prestwick church being called St Nicholas's church of Prestwick, and Monkton church, St Cuth- bert's church of Prestwick. At a later date in the chartulary they are distinguished as Prestwic de burgo^ and Prestwic Monachorum ; and at the date of 1225 there occurs this casual notice of the lat* ter, — Prestwic-^qaoB nunc dicitur villa Monachorum. Both churches were bestowed upon the monastery of Paisley by its founder, Walter, the son of Alan the great steward of Scotland, in 1 163, together with the whole of that rich flat of land which now forms the parish of Monkton,* with the exception of what lies on the east side of the Powburn, which probably was attacb* ed to the religious house of LadykirL The mill of PrestwicJL, novf called Monkton mill, was added to this grant in 1368, when the * Eoclesiam de Prestwic, cum totk terri ilia quam Dovenaldus filius Yweni eis persmbula^it inter terram Slmonis Loecardi ( SymiDgton parish), et terrain de Prest- wic usque Pulprestwic (the Pow burn), et secundum Pulprestwic usque in mare, et a mari secundum torrentem (the Rumbler bum), inter terram Arnaldl (Dundonald parish), et terram de Prestwic usque ad divisas Simonis Loecardi ; et illam eedesiain de burgo meo de Prestwic, cum omnibus pertinentiis suis. — Carta Walteri filii Alani fundatoris de dtrersis terris et eccies. lis col]atts,-«>as contained in the cbartulsry of Paisley. 170 AYRSHIRE^ house of Dalmuliiiy (Dalmelling, in the parish of St Quivox,) a house of canons and nuns of the order of Sempringham or Gil- bertines, with all its possessions, (of which Monkton mill was one,) was made over to the monastery of Paisley. There is no record or tradition extant of any house or convent in Monkton, for the accommodation of these monks. Prestwick church is mentioned in the Paisley chartulary in 1212, as a chapel, and its minister as a chaplain (capellanus), Monkton church was a rec- tory, and continued to be so down to the Reformation. From the general appearance of the present church of Monkton, and in par- ticular from the existence of a Saxon arch over what was once the principal door, it is supposed to be the original structure : in that case it cannot be less than 700 or 800 years old. The bell bears the popish inscription of Sancte Cuthberti ora pro nobisy addressed to the tutelary saint of the church. It is not known when the pa- rishes were united. It appears from the records of the burgh of Prestwick, that up to the year 1570 the union had not taken place, as the ministers of both parishes are mentioned : whereas about 1630 mention is made only of one, as being minister of both pa- rishes. The union probably was the result of necessity, viz. the want of adequate endowments. The parish is sometimes mentioned as the united parish of Monkton, Prestwick and Crosby. This is a mistake. Crosby never was a separate parish. In the chartulary above referred to, We have mention made of Dundonald, with its two chapels of Ric« carton and Crosby. The records of the Presbytery of Ayr, bear that, in 1651, the estate of Crosby at the request of its proprietor, was disjoined from the parish of Dundonald, and, for the sake of being nearer to religious ordinances, was joined to Monkton. In 1688, however, it was again wholly reunited to Dundonald. It would appear that, subsequent to this latter date, the laird of Crosby erected the place of worship, the ruins of which still remain, for the accommodation of the neighbouring population, and it con- tinued for some time as a preaching station, and for a while had a minister of its own. The etymology of Prestwick, (Priest- town,) points to some ec- clesiastical origin, but as to what that is, neither record nor tradition furnishes the smallest light Extenty ^c. — The parish extends to 3^ miles in length, by 3^ in breadth, and contains between 9 and 10 square miles. It is bounded by the parishes of Dundonald, Symington, and Craigie, MONKTON AND PRESTWICK. 171 on the north and north-east; by Tarbolton and St Quivox on the east ; by St Quivox and Newton on the south and south-east; and by the Frith of Clyde on the west Topographical Appearances. — The parish is flat and level, rising to a gentle elevation along the north and north-east boundary. The length of sea coast from the parish of Newton to where Monk- ton joins Dundonald parish is between 2 and 2^ miles. The coast is low, flat, and sandy, with very shoal water. Numerous bluff's and low sand-hills covered with bent, lie along the shore. There are two inconsiderable streams in the parish, the larger of which, the Pow-burn, rising in Craigie parish, and falling into the sea at the boundary between Monkton and Dundonald, turns two corn mills in its course. Geology and Mineralogy, — There are two seams of coal in the southern part of Prestwick lands. The upper seam, which is soft, and in some places foul and mixed with pyrites, has been wrought for upwards of thirty years. It is not now wrought, being nearly exhausted. It was within 6 or 7 fathoms of the surface. The under seam, at the depth of from 33 to nearly 40 fathoms, and 4^ feet thick, is a cleaner, harder, and more splinty coal, and has been wrought for more than twenty years. It is now exhaust- ed to the south of Kingcase dike, a dike which divides all the metals on either side of it This dike is of green whinstone, and crosses the Prestwick lands in a direction from east to west, and at ebb- tide its course can be seen running \^estward into the sea. It re-' appears on the opposite shore of the firth, in the Island of Arran. In the opposite direction, eastward and inland, this dike has been traced upwards of 40 miles. As yet no coals have been wrought in the parish to the north of this dike. Only one stone quarry has been opened in the parish, viz. upon the Prestwick shore, from which excellent freestone, both white and red, are obtained. It is not wrought at present The soil of the parish is various. Immediately along the sea-side, and over a considerable part of Prestwick lands, it is a light sand, so light as scarcely to be adapt- ed for tillage. Around the village of Monkton, and towards the eastern and southern bounds of the united parish, it consists of a fine deep loam, varying from a light and very productive sand to a strong rich earthy clay, all capable of producing every species of crop of the finest quality. To the north and north-east the soil is chiefly a tenacious clay, in some places of excellent quality, and susceptible of great improvement, in others, thin and poor, resting 172 AYRSHIEE. upon a cold bottom^ and not so improveable. Very little of either is adapted to the different kinds of driU husbandry. II, — Civil History. ^ At what period the union of the parishes of Monkton and Prest- wick took place is not known ; but in all probability it was about the time of the Reformation, or shortly after it The original pa- rish churches of both parishes are still standing, and up to May ] 837 were used for the purposes of public worship. The inhabi- tants of Prestwick were entitled to have public worship performed in their own church, by the minister of the parish, every third Sab- bath. These churches are both very old. In the records of the burgh of Prestwick, mention is made of a Justice Aire being held in the burgh church, so far back as the year 1440. The church of Monkton is thought to be at least as old as that of Prestwick. Tradition says, that it is the same fabric in which Sir William Wallace attended divine service on the occasion of his having the remarkable dream mentioned in the seventh book of Blind Harry's poem. The parish formerly extended to the river Ayr, and compre- hended the present parish of Newton. In 1777, the inhabitants of Newton, in consequence of the defective accommodation in the parish churches, erected a Chapel of Ease for themselves. In 1779, having purchased from Sir William Maxwell, at that time patron of the united parish, the right of electing their own minis- ^ter, and the consent of the heritors being obtained, Newton was erected into a separate parish quoad sacra ; the burgh of New- ton still continuing to bear their proportion of the stipend payable to the minister of Monkton i and of the expense of keeping the church of Monkton and Prestwick in repair. The burgh of Prestwick is very ancient, as appears from its pre* sent charter. This charter was renewed by James VI. as admini- strator for his son, *^ Henry, Duke of Rothsay, Earl of Kyle, Carrick, and Cunningham, Lord of the Isles," &c« at Holyrood- house, 19th June 1600, and bears, that Prestwick was known to have been a free burgh of barony for the space of 617 years pre- vious to this renewal of its charter. Kyle, one of the three divi- sions of the county of Ayr, was itself subdivided into Kyle Stewart^ and King's Kyle : the latter, extending from the river Ayr to the river Doon, had Ayr for its head burgh ; the former, extending from the river Ayr to the river Irvine, had Prestwick for its head buTgb. Their charter allows them to choose a provost, bailies. MONKTON AND PRESTWICK. 173 &C9 to hold a weekly market, and a fair upon the feast of St Ni- cholas^ the 6th of December. JLand'Oumers. — The chief land-ow|iers of the parish are, Robert Reid, Esq. of Adamton, who also is patron of the parish ;. R. A. Oswald, Esq. of Auchencruive ; W. G. Campbell, Esq. of Fair- field; A. Murdoch, Esq. of Whiteside and Orangefield; The Duke of Portland ; and Lord James Stuart. The lands of Presto wick are divided into thirty-six freedoms, of from fourteen to six- teen acres each in extent, of which from seven to eight acres may be good arable land. The rest was formerly in a state of common, but some years ago was divided and portioned out among the free- men. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers are the records of the kirk-session, and the register of births and baptisms. The earliest entry' in the latter is in 1702. The former does not ex- tend so far back, the earlier volumes having been lost Both are now kept with considerable regularity. Antiquities. — There are upon the estate of Ladykirk, the pro- perty of R. A. Oswald, Esq. of Auchencruive, the remains of a chq>el dedicated to the Virgin Mary, called in old writings, Lady- kirk in Kyle. This estate was originally part of the barony of Adamton, and belonged to the family of Blair of Adamton, who were patrons of this chapel in Roman Catholic times. The build- ing formed a square with turrets at each corner, with the chapel in the middle. One of the turrets is all that remains of this ruin. Between Prestwick and Prestwick Toll, within fifty or sixty yards of the high road, are still to be seen the ruined walls of King- Case or King's Case, a charitable institution said to have been endowed by King Robert Bruce. Tradition says, that the Bruce, in consequence of great personal efforts in a hard-fought battle, was seized with an eruptive disease of the nature of leprosy ; and that upon his recovery from this disease, under the conviction that his cure had been mainly effected by drinking of the water of King- Case well, he built this lazar-house for the accommodation and relief of such as might be afflicted with the same disorder.* * Kiogcase. The history of this charitably institution is thus ffiven by Chalmers in his Caledonia. << At KUcaitt which is now called Kincate or Kingcase, on the coast of Kyle, in the parish of Prestwick, there was founded an hospital for leprous persona» which was dedicated to St Ninian. Tradition relates that the founder of this esta- blishment was King Robert Bruce, who was himself afflicted with lepro^, the re- sult of hard fiu-e, htfd livinff, and hard work. This hospital was endowed with the kuds of Robert4oanj which is now called Loantf in Dundonald parish ; with the lands of Sheles and Spital Sheles in Kyle Stewart, and with other lands which cannot 174 AYRSHIRE. IIL — Population. According to Dr Webster's report, the population of the unit- ed parish, including Newton, amounted in 1755 to 1163; and as the population of Newton in'^779 amounted to between 800 and 900, the separate population of Monkton and Prestwick, in 1755, could not be more than 400. The subsequent increase, to the present amount of 1818, is to be attributed partly to the improve- ment in the system of agriculture, and the increased expenditure of labour and capital upon the soil ; and partly, and perhaps in a greater degree, to the increase of the cotton manufactures, and the influx of Irish weavers employed in them, into the parish. The number of inhabitants residing in the country is 346 ; in the three villages of Monkton, Prestwick, and Prestwick Toll ; there being 376 in Monkton; 758 in Prestwick; and 327 in Prestwick Toll. There are only two gentlemen of independent fortune resident in the parish, viz. Mr Reid of Adamton, and Mr Campbell of Fairfield, both heritors in the parish. There are in the parish ten separate properties of the annual value of L. 50 and upwards. Number of families in the parish, ----- 382 chiefly employed in agriculture, ... 98 trade, manufiusture, and handicrafit, 2( 9 The number of illegitimate births in the parish during the last three years, as nearly as can be ascertained, was 14. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres, Scotch measure, in the pa- now be specified. As the foundation charter of this hospital does not exist, it cannot be ascertained what number of persons were originally maintained in it. It appears, however, to have been governed by a guardian, or prior, and it had a chaplain. In the reign of James II., Wallace of Newton acquired the lands of Spital Sheles, which belonged to this hospital, aa the name implies, and the hereditary office of keeper, or governor of the hospital, and of the lands belonging to it. In January 1515-16, all these were resigned by Hugh Wallace of Newton, in favour of his brother Adam. After the whole property of this hospital was thus granted away, the only revenue that remained to it was the feu-duties, payable from the land, in this manner grant- ed in fee-farm ; and these, amounting to 64 bolls of meal and Smerks Scots of money, with sixteen threaves of straw for thatching the hospital, are still paid. For more than t^o centuries past, this diminished revenue has been shared among eight objects of charity, in equal shares of eight bolls of meal, and one merk Scotch to each. The leprosy having long disappeared, the persons who are now admitted to the benefit of this charity, are such as labour under diseases which are considered incurable, or such as are in indigent circumstances. The right of appointing these belonged to the family of Wallace of Craigiefor a long time, and was purchased about 1790 (in 1787) by the burgh of Ayr, which still holds this patronage. The old hospital, which exist- ed in the * better days of this charity, has been long in ruins.' In the description of Kyle, by Robert Gordon, in the reign of Charles I., he mentions the chapel of this establishment ; and says, that the persons admitted to the charity were then lodged in huts, or cottages in the vicinity." MONKTON AND PRESTWICK. 175 rishi which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, is about 1800. The number never cultivated, or remaining constantly waste or in pasture is 570. There is little of these 570 acres that could, with advantage, be added to the cultivated land of the pa- rish. The only common in the parish is that of Prestwick, which was some years ago divided and appropriated. The number of acres under wood is about 50, mostly planted. Rent of Land. — The average rent of land in the Monkton half of the parish, including 170 acres of sand-bluffs and links on the sea side, is L. 2, 6s. per Scotch acre ; and over the united parish L. 1, 17s. dd. per acre. The average rent of summer gr^ng may be stated at L. 4, 10s. for an ox or milch cow ; and L. 2, 10s. for young cattle. Hiubandry. — The state of husbandry in the parish may be said to be in a very advanced stage of improvement Surface-draining in every alternate furrow, with tiles and stones, has been adopted with the best effects in some of the best land in the parish. The leases are generally of nineteen years. The farm-steadings are generally good, and upon some of the larger farms have been erected in a very complete style, and at great expense. Surface draining, and feeding off the turnip crop on the ground with sheep, appear to be the most important improvements lately introduced into the husbandry of the parish. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish has been ascertained with a considerable attention to minuteness and accuracy, and is as follows, viz. Produce of grain of all kinds, whether for food of man or domestic animals : Wheat, - . L.d,0d2 19 Oats, . . 2,856 17 Barley, - - - 119 PoUtoes and turnips, - 3,092 9 Beans, - - - 796 4 ■L. 6,007 16 3,888 13 Hay, (culUvated) - - - - 809 17 Pasture at L. 4, lOs. per cow, - - 1,867 0.0 Total amount of raw produce, L. 12,573 The total rental of the parish is, L. 4,509. V. — Parochial Economy. The nearest market-towns are Ayr, at the distance of 4 miles from Monkton, and 2^ from Prestwick ; Kilmarnock, at the dis- tance of 8 miles from Monkton, and 9 from Prestwick ; and Irvine, 176 AYItSHIRE. at the distance of 7 J miles from Monkton, and 8^ from Prest* wicL ViUages. — The villages in the parish are three, Monkton, Prest- wick and Prestwick Toll, with populations respectively of 376, 758^ and 827. Means of Communication, — The post-town is Ayr. The parish is intersected, 1st, by the great road from Port-Patrick and Ayr to Kilmarnock and Glasgow — length of this road within the pa- rish 8 J miles : 2d, from Ayr to Irvine and Saltcoats, &c-*length of which within the parish is 8, miles : 8d, from Mauchline and Tarbolton to Irvine, &c — length of which within the parish is 3^ miles : 4th, from Cumnock, and Coylton, and St Quivox, to Irvine, &c — length of which within the parish is 2 J miles. The turn- pike roads all intersect each other at the same point, in the village of M onkton. Besides the mail-coach, sit public coaches pass through Monk- ton and Prestwick every day, three early in the morning from Ayr, two of them to Glasgow, and the other to Edinburgh; and three in the afternoon to Ayr, one of them from Edinburgh, and the other two from Glasgow. Besides these, a regular diligence leaves Kilmarnock for Ayr in the morning, and returns in the afternoon, and another, three times a-week, leaves Irvine for Ayr in the morn- ing, and returns in the afternoon. Ecclesiastical State. — The union of the two parishes has been completed by the competent legal process before the Court of Teinds, and presbytery of Ayr. These courts, by decreet dated 4th June 1834, granting authority for the suppression of the two old churches, and for the erection, on an intermediate situation, of one new church, sufficient to accommodate the united parish. A very handsome new church, accordingly, has been built on a com- manding situation, adjacent to the Pow-bridge, and calculated to contain 825 sitters, that number being exactly two-thirds of the examinable persons in the parish. It reflects the highest credit on the architect, David Bryce, Esq. Edinburgh, and forms one of the most striking objects in the surrounding landscape, and one of the handsomest churches in the '7est of Scotland. Including the purchase of ground, gates and itorrounding walls, &c. &c., it cost about L. 2500, and was opened for public worship on the 14th of May 1837. The manse was built in 1822. The glebe, including the gar- den and the ground occupied by the manse and offices, is about 8 3 MONKTON AND PRESTWICK. 177 Scotch acres in extent, and for the last fifteen or sixteen years reoU ed at from Lb 5 to L« 5^ 5s. per acre. The stipend is 17 chalders of victual, half meal, half barley, with Lb 8, 6s. 8d. as allowance for communion elements. About 600 persons regularly attend church since the new church was opened. There are about 200 Dissenters, young and old, of all persuasions, in the parish ; of these about 60 are Roman Catholics. Divine service is attended with considerable regularity in the parish church. The number of communicants is about 400. The average of collections in the old church was about Lb 35 annually. The average collections in the new church cannot yet be given. Education. — There is one parochial school in Monkton, attend- ed by between 100 and 130 children. ' In Prestwick there is one private school, attended by from 40 to 50 children. There are also two Sabbath evening schools, attended by from 160 to 180 or 200 children, most of whom do not regularly enjoy any other means of education. The branches of instruction taught in the two day schools are, English reading, English grammar, writing, arith- metic, practical mathematics, and, when pupils offer, tlie elements of the Latin language. The parochial schoolmaster has the maxi- mum salary, with a house, school-house, and a garden of the sta- tutory extent The teacher in Prestwick has the use of the town- house of the burgh for a schooKhouse ; and the burgh usually make him an annual allowance for rent of dwelling-house. The school fees, are, for English reading alone, 2s. 6d. per quarter ; for read- ing and writing, Ss. 6d. ; and for all the other branches taught, 4s. It is believed there are very few, if any, in the parish unable to read, and parents in general are very much alive to the benefits of education. The number of schools is sufficient for the parish. Poor. — There are from 15 to 20 poor receiving regular paro- chial aid, to the amount of from 3s. to 4s. a-month. There are also others receivmg occasional aid. The annual amount of con- tributions for their relief may be stated at about L. 50 Sterling, of which Lb 35 is collected at the cliurch door, L. 10 is raised by vo- luntary subscription among the heritors, and the rest is made up by fines, proclamation dues, &c. &c There is still remaining among the poor a considerable reluctance to apply for parish re- lief, if it can by any means be avoided. Prison. — There is one prison in the burgh of Prestwick, which is about to be rebuilt. Imprisonment is not frequent There are four public houses in Prestwick toll, four or five in Prestwick, and AYR. M 178 AYRSHIRE. four in Monkton ; a number much greater than is required, and certainly not favourable to the moral habits of the people. Fuel. — The fuel used in the parish is universally coal, which is procured, the best of it, from the collieries in the neighbourhood of Kilmarnock, also from Newton, and from the collieries on the water of Ayr, at an expense, including carriage, of between 5s. and 5s. 9d. per single horse cart. Miscellaneous Observations. The most striking change in the parish since the date of last Statistical Account, is in regard to the agriculture, the mode of farming, and the amount of farm produce raised^ and of the rental of the parish. At the date of last Statistical Account there was little or.no wheat sown ; now the annual value of wheat raised is L. 3032, 19s. In 17dl the amount of oats raised in this parish was 1315 bolls, and of bear or barley, 399 bolls ; now the annual value of oats raised is L. 2855, and of barley L. 1 19. In 1791 there were 6 or 7 acres of turnips, and 23 or 24 acres of potatoes ; now the annual amount of potatoes and turnips raised is 215 acres, valued at L. 3092. And finally, in 1791, the rental of the parish was supposed to be between L. 1800 and L. 2000 ; now it is' L. 4509, 1 7s. The chief improvement in the husbandry of the parish is tile-draining in every furrow, or every alternate furrow, which might be applied to a large portion of the parish with the , most important results. And the chief error in the system seems to be too frequent white-cropping, as it appears, even under the best management in other respects, to be impairing the productive- ness of the soil. Written in 1832, and revised in 1837. PARISH OF GALSTON. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ROBERT STIRLING, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish of Galston is situated in 'the district of Kyle. Its greatest length is about 13 miles, and its greatest breadth about 4^ ; but its figure is very irregular, and GALSTON. 179 accordingly its superficial extent is found to be scarcely 23 square miles. It is bounded on the east by the river Avon, which divides it from the parish of Avendale ; on the north by the Irvine, which separates it from Loudon and Kilmarnock; and on the west by the Cessnock, which divides it from Riccarton and Craigie. Its southern boundaries, by which it is separated from Mauchline and Sorn, are not so easily described. Geoloffy.— The higher land in the parish is called Distinct- horn, about 1100 feet above the level of the sea. This hill, which is near the south-east extremity of Galston, is chiefly composed of old red sandstone, but is found to be frequently inter- sected with whin dikes.* A quarry has been wrought about a mile and a half to the north of this hill, from which a great quantity of excellent pavement and roofing-slate has been procured ; and it has been remarked h^ the workmen, that the sandstone becomes valuable for these purposes, only where it comes to be nearly in contact with the whinstone, by whose vicinity it appears to have been very much indurated. To the north-west of this, is Molmont Hill (neariy 1000 feet high,) which is formecf of trap rocks, such as trap tuS; amygdaloid, porphyry, &c and still farther to the north and west, are found the usual coal measures belonging to the coal basin of Ayrshire. It has been remarked of the coal mines in Galston, and, indeed, of the Ayrshire coal field in gene- ral, that the operations of the miner are frequently interrupted by troubles or whin dikes, which render the working of the coal both expensive and difiicult. The general dip of the strata throughout the parish is north-west. The only mineral deserving of notice, as peculiar to this parish, is an ornamental stone commonly known by the name of Galston pebble. It is found at the west end of Molmont Hill, in the channel of the Burn Ann, which runs into the Irvine at Galston, and it is situated in a bed of hard clay of a greenish co- lour, probably tinged with chrome. There is also found on the top of the last mentioned hill, a vast number of nodules of agate and calcedony, most of them containing quartz crystals in the cen- tre, and very few of them exhibiting beautiful colours. SoiL — The general character of the soil in the higher and eastern parts of the parish is loamy and sandy, with a consider- able tendency in many places to peat ; in the lower and western * There is a considerable number of eminences in this parish, which are covered or capped with whin rocks. 180 AYRSHIRK* parts, the most prevale&t soil consists of different varieties of clay. In the eastern parts, which are generally covered with heath, there are found many trunks of trees of considerable magnitude. One of these was lately dug up from a piece of mossy ground, which appears formerly to have been a small lake about 500 feet above the level of the sea. It proved to be a magnificent oak with a straight trunk, which had once been upwards of 48 feet long, and is still about 3^ feet in diameter at the upper extremity. Two large pieces in good preservation are now kept at Lanfine garden. Whether this tree and its fellows already mentioned, are to be re- garded as the remains of the Caledonian Forest mentioned in the Classics, or to be referred to a still more ancient epoch in the his- tory of our globe, must be left for the decision of more competent authorities than the writer of this account. Along the south bank of the Irvine, ther» are from 400 to 500 imperial acres of rich holm land, which appear evidently to have been formed by successive deposits from the river. It is certain, at least, that the river has at some former period traversed almost every part of this rich tract ; and it may be remarked, to the same purpose, that the uniformity of the soil and subsoil throughout its whole extent, as well as the considerable difference of level at the two extremities, preclude the supposition of its having been depo- sited at the bottom of an anci^pt lake. Climate. — The climate of Galston partakes of the general chap- racter belonging to that of Ayrshire, being ^^ rather moist but not unhealthy." FVom two rain guages kept at Lanfine, it s^pears that the quantity of rain in 1831, was 53.8 inches, and in 1832, 46.12. It is proper to state, however, that the situation of Lan- fine is high, and the fall of rain considerably greater than about the village of Gralston. Bruntwood Loch, with all its winged inhabitants, has disappeared under the grasping hand of modem agriculture, and although Loch Gait does not appear to have suffered from similar encroach- ments, it must now be described as an insignificant marsh. There is nothing worthy of notice in the zoology or botany of Galston. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — Neither is this parish celebrated by the occurrence of any important event mentioned in history, unless the successful rencontre of the patriot Wallace with the English officer Fen- vrick is to be regarded in that light The cairn which is said to mark the locality of this battle, is still in existence in the vicinity GALSTON. 181 of Loudon Hill, though considerably diminished by the repair of the neighbouring stone-fences. The ^^ rude fortification,'' how- ever, which is said in the former Statistical Account to have shel- tered this hero and his handful of followers, performed the same office to a much more numerous body of warriors, probably not less than 1000 .years before. It is evidently a Roman camp, chosen and fortified with all the military science for which that celebrated people were distinguished. Its ramparts, though much reduced by time and the depredations of the husbandman, may be distinctly, traced throughout its whole extent, and the Praeto- rian and Decuman gates are in a state of tolerable preservation* The original camp to which these remarks apply is 180 yards long and 114 broad ; but there is another inclosure upon a lower level towards the south, which seems to have been added upon a subse-* quent occasion, to accommodate a larger force, or perhaps originally designed for the quarters of the allies. This addition lengthens out the parallelogram jo 258 yards. It does not appear that there have been any gates at the extremities of the'Principia,and, indeed, it is not to be expected from the nature of the ground, which on the right and left sides slopes downwards for twenty or thirty yards, with the declivity of a rampart. Upon one of these slopes there was found in the year 1831, a silver' coin in good preservation, hav- ing this inscription, ciBSAR avgvstvs divi f. pater patrije. This coin is now in the possession of Thomas Brown, Esq. the proprietor of the estate on which the camp is situated, who is also in possession of another Roman coin, found along with many more, a little to the eastward in the parish of Avendale, and inscribed Divvs ANTONiNVS. Those fects and observations taken in connec- tion with the existence of a Roman military way, which may still be traced on the opposite 'bank of the Irvine, furnish incontestable evidence that the parish of Galston has received at least one visit from the masters of the world ; and it furnishes a striking proof of the stupendous scale upon which that wonderful people conducted their affairs, that marches and encampments, too trivial to be re- corded in their military histories, have thus certified their own ex- istence during a period of not less than 1600 years. In connection with these Roman remains may be mentioned an- other military station on the Galston bank of the Aven, about two miles farther to the south. It is nearly surrounded by the river, and fortified, where it is not so, by a rampart and ditch. Its tra- ditionary name in the 4ieighbburhood is Main Castle, which, as 1 182 AYRSHIRE. there is not the slightest vestige of a castle in the modern sense of the word, involuntarily suggests to the classical scholar the Latin designation of Minora Castra. In the absence of evidence, there* fore, to establish any other hypothesis, it may not improbably be conjectured to have contained a detachment of the army stationed on Allanton Beg. It is impossible to ascertain the present owners of all the coins which have been dug up at different times within the parish of Galston.* Mr Brown of Lan6ne is in possession of twenty-seven silver coins which have been found on different parts of his estate, and which bear the names of Alexander, David, and Ed- ward. Parochial Registers. — The parish records are very imperfect and mutilated previous to the date of 1692, from which time there is a regular series of baptisms and minutes of session. The earliest entry is dated 1568, and perhaps the most curious and interesting record, which bears the date of 1640, is a copy of the " Solemn League and Covenant," with the names of the subscribers belong- ing to Galston. The first names attached to this document are, " Alexander Wallace, minister of Galston, Cessnock, Lockhart of Barr, Stewart of Galston, Patrick Shaw of Sombeg.'* The per- son here subscribing " Cessnock" is elsewhere designated Sir Hugh Campbell, who, with John Lockhart of Barr, were the principal heritors or proprietors of land at this time. III. — Population. The following statement exhibits the population of the parish of Galston for a period of seventy-five years : In 1775» it amounted to 1013 1790, - 1577 1801, - 2113 1811, - -3009 1821, . 3442 1831, . 3655 In 1831, fhe number of males was 1808 females 1847 The great cause of the increase of the population which ap- pears in the above statement has been the rise and progress of the cotton manu£aicture. The yearly average of births for seven years prior to 1832 was 1 10 marriagra, * . . . 30 deaths, ... Q9 * Though not strict! v belonging to the antiquities of Galston, it deserves to be mentioned, that this gentleman is in possession of a very interesting collection of an- cient spear heads, battle axes, &c. commonly called Celts, as well as many other cu- rious remains of antiquity. GALSTON. 183 The number of persons of different ages in 1832 was as follows : Under 15, - 1526 Between 15 and 30, 1019 dO and 50, 640 50 and 70, 422 Upwards of 70, - 81 At the same period the number of unmarried men and widowers above 50, was 56 unmarried women and widows above 45 was 1 27 Number of families, ..... 707 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - - 163 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, - 4l5 The average number of children now residing with their parents, or grandfathers or grandmothers is 3/^ for each family where there are any children, and the number of such families is 640. ' Of this population about 2300 live in villages, and are chiefly employed in the different branches of the cotton manufacture. A few of the weavers have lately begun to weave different kinds of fancy silk. The high wages which could formerly be earned at weaving and sewing have introduced among this class a taste for an expensive mode of living, which contributes greatly to abridge the real comforts of life, when wages are verging, as at present, to- wards the lowest ebb. Their condition, therefore, may be now re- ported as far from comfortable, and the discontent naturally aris- ing from this state of things has been greatly increased by the ig- norant or dishonest labours of political agitators, who have taught them to ascribe to oppression and misgovemment, what is chiefly owing to the multiplication of power looms, and other machinery. Whether it be owing to the vain hope of a more adequate remu- neration for their present form of labour, or a love of the ease and apparent independence connected with the cotton weaving trade, in which every man is literally his own task-master, the fact is cer- tain, that few have yet left it to engage in the labours of agricul- ture. The natural consequence is, that the rural labourers are still in the enjoyment of those high wages which the vicinity of manufactures generally produces, and being well fed, and not over- worked, their condition is generally comfortable, and they are con- tented. From this statement, it would be easy to infer the moral and religious character of the population, upon the general princi- ples of human experience. That of the farmers and their servants is, upon the whole, exemplary and good ; that of the manufac- turers, though it is often excellent, is in too many cases very de* fective. The number of illegitimate children during the three years pre- ceding July 1837 was 36. 184 AYRSHIRE. IV. — Industsy* The parish of Galston contains 14,677 acres, imperial measure, which may be distributed as follows : Arable land. 9838 acres. Pasture and moss, . 8780 Plantations, - 964 It is probable that 600 acres of the land which has not yet been cultivated might, with a little outlay, be subjected to the opera- tion of the plough. But this could be undertaken with no other view than to improve the quality of the pasture, — a remark which may be applied to nearly 1000 acres of what is above stated as arable. There is no unappropriated common in the parish ; but the proprietors of land in Galston, and even in a part of Riccar- ton, have a right to cut peat and turf in a certain part of Galston Muir. It will readily be believed, however, that in a country where coals are so abundant, and may be purchased at 48. a ton, exclu- sive of carriage, this privilege is neither highly valued, nor fre* quently exercised. Rent nf Land. — The average rent of arable land is 18s. lOd* per acre, and that of moorland. pasture Is. Id. Husbandry. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years; but upon the estates of the Duke of Portland many of the farms have lately been put upon the English system, and the tenants have properly no leases, but occupy from year to year. This change does not appear to have been brought about for the pur- pose of getting rid of the old tenants, or of enhancing their rents ; still less has it been introduced to stop the progress of improvement On the contrary, the farmer being liberally re- munerated, in case . of removal, for any permanent improvement which he makes upon his farm, carries on his operations with confidence ; and the enlightened and wealthy proprietor has late- ly taken into his own hand the conduct of the most important species of improvement He has erected works for the manufac- ture of draining-tiles, and procured persons of experience in the practice of draining ; and when any tenant wishes to have his farm improved in this way, he has only to carry the tiles to the field to be drained, and to furnish straw to cover them in cases where it is necessary, and the whole work is performed without any farther ex- pense to him, except the payntent of a yearly sum proportioned to the distance at which the drains are placed. This distance varies from 14 to 18 feet, and the yearly sum paid by the farmer varies O ALSTON. 185 io an inverse proportion, from 6b. 6d. to 5s. per acre. It is scarce* ly necessary to state, that the drains are placed in the furrows, and that, after they have been made, the breadth and position of the ridges is not allowed to be altered. If this improvement had been left to the spontaneous and unaided exertions of the farmers, it would in all probability have gone forward Very slowly, owing to the want of capital and enterprize, and still more to the proverbial caution of that class of men. In fact, the mere example of a simi- lar system of draining, which had existed in Ayrshire sometime be- fore the commencement of his Grace's operations in Scotland, had been found insufficient to give an impulse to the industry of the farmer. But upon the liberal system above-described, which re- moves every considerable risk from the tenant to the proprietor, the operation of draining has been found so easy and beneficial, that the tile-works cannot supply the rapidly increasing demand* Nay, such has been the impulse given to agricultural enterprize by the extensive practical evidence of the advantages of thorough draining furnished from the estates of the Duke of Portland in Ayrshire, that tile- works are now rising in all quarters, and it is probable that in a very few years these advantages will be shared by the whole county. Many and great improvements have also been made upon the estate of Lanfine by the late and present proprietor, particularly in the formation of many miles of good roads, in draining and re- claiming waste lands by bounties given to the tenants, and in ex- tensive and judicious plantations* On this estate alone there are now upwards of 800 imperial acres of thriving plantations, which promise to be highly beneficial as well as ornamental to that exten- sive property. The wood most commonly planted by Mr Brown is larch and other kinds of fir, with a mixture of oak, ash, elm, &c» in places adapted to their growth. Nothing can be more strikingly at variaiyce than the methodic which are followed by the Duke of Portland and Mr Brown in the management of their plantations. The latter puts in the plants at first at distances of not less than a yard every way, and care- fully thins them as they advance in size ; while the former plants at less than half a yard, and allows no thinning, at least for many years, but what is accomplished by the stronger plants killing the weaker. ^^ Nun nostrum inter vus tantas coinponcre Ut«s." Experience has not yet fully decided, at least in the parish of 186 AYRSHIRE. GalstoD, to which of those methods the preference ought to be given. In the meantime, it may be expected that his Grace's system should at length produce the straighter and more useful wood ; while it is generally supposed that the protracted struggle for ascendency among the plants must considerably enfeeble and retard their growth. "Jt is but justice, however, to state, that some oak woods around the old mansion-house of Cessnock, which were planted upon this system about twelve years ago, discover a luxuriance of growth which is very striking, and can scarcely be surpassed in plantations of the same species of tree upon a similar soil, whatever may be the system of management For the fir tribe his Grace's method does not seem to be so beneficial. Farm-Bmldinffs. — The state of the farm-buildings in this parish is in general good, and suited to the wants and habits of the far- mers ; and where it is otherwise there appears to be a rapid advance in the way of improvement. The fences are in many places very indifferent, while in others they have been greatly improved, and even rendered excellent by the practice of frequent scutching or pruning. Husbandry. — The system of agriculture almost universally fol- lowed in Galston is one which, however it may be condemned by the modem school, has at least the praise of being long establish- ed, and highly esteemed by those who practise it It consists in taking two successive white crops, (almost always of oats,) and one crop of rye-grass hay, and allowing the land to lie in pasture during the remaining five years, which complete the rotation. It will readily be inferred from this statement, that the produce of the dairy is the object of primary consideration in this district, and accordingly it may be stated, upon a moderate computation, that at least 210 tons of cheese are annually produced in Galston. Live-Stock. — The breed of cows found in this parish is that which is commonly known as the Ayrshire breed, on the selec- tion and rearing of which, as well as upon the general manage- ment of the dairy, the farmers bestow great attention. The sheep on the few farms where that kind of stock is kept belong to the common black-faced breed. Produce. — It is impossible to ascertain with absolute correct- ness the gross amount of raw produce raised in this parish even for a single year, since but few of the farmers are accustomed to keep regular accounts, and some of them are rather averse to com- municate the results even when they can. The following state- 3 GALSTON. 187 ment is founded upon many careful observations and inquiries in different parts of the parish, and though it be only the result of a combination of partial averages, will be found to be pretty near the truth. It certainly does not, upon the whole, exceed the truth. Average grosft produce of grain, . L. 12,210 Cheese and butter, . . 9,8*28 Black cattle and sheep nold, . . 8kI00 Hay and straw, . . . 7,751 Poutoes, turnips, &c. . . 3,340 Of lime, . . . . 216 Of coals, .... 1,146 Thinning and felling of woods, . 650 Quarries, orchards, &c. . . 405 L. 38,736 V. — Parochial Economy. Marhet'Town — Means of Communication. — There is no market- town in this parish, the nearest being Kilmarnock, which is five miles distant from the village of Galston. With this town as well as Glasgow, and indeed all parts of the kingdom, the communica- tion is easy by means of excellent turnpike-roads, of which about ten miles fall within the parochial boundaries. The parish roads amount to upwards of twenty miles, and are generally kept in very good order. There are two carriers who go to and return from Glasgow, each twice in a week, and one carrier to Kilmarnock, who goes every lawful day. There is also a daily communication with Ayr, Edinburgh, and all the intervening places, by means of a stage-coach, which passes through the village, and a coach from Glasgow to London by Dumfries passes through another part of the parish. There is a penny-post in the village, and a daily de- livery of letters. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated in the village of Galston ; and as there is here a population of nearly 1900 imme- diately contiguous to the church, its situation with regard to the general mass of the parishioners cannot be said to be inconvenient At the same time there are several houses in the eastern part of the parish which are about eight miles distant from the village, and the regularity with which some of their inhabitants attend the parish church, in spite of its distance, must be acknowledged to be high- ly creditable to their religious character, as well as indicative of their attachment to the national establishment The present church was built in 1808) on a neat and substantial plan, and is ornamented with a spire and clock. It affords sittings for 1020 ; of which number, however, there are not more than 250 appro- priated to the villagers, the rest being divided amongst the hen* t8d AYRSHIRE. tors and occupiers of land. About 50 of these sittings are strict- ly free, and for the remaining 200 a small rent is paid, rather for the purpose of appropriating them to the most regular occu- pants, than for defraying the expense of erection. The pro- duce, amounting to about L. 10 annually, is thrown into the poor's funds. The manse was built in 1795, and after undergoing the repairs which generally become necessary in a short time where houses are built by contract, it may now be reported as a good and com- fortable house. The glebe contains about 14^ imperial acres, and the productive part of it may be stated at the annual value of L. 18. The stipend consists of the whole teinds of the parish, which amount to 202 bolls, 3 pecks, Sj lippies of meal ; 13 bolls, 1 fir- lot, 1 peck, I lippies of bear, and L. 5, 7s. 9|d. of money, besides L. 1, lis. 8d., paid by certain lands in the parish of Tarbolton. There is one Dissenting chapel in the village of Galston, which is occupied by members of the United Secession Churc|). The minister is supported by the voluntary contributions of his people, and the average amount of stipend is L. 110. The number of families under the exclusive superintendence of the parochial minister is 673^ and the families connected with the different denominations of Dissenters amount to 169. The re- lative proportions of individuals connected as above is not so easily ascertained, but it may safely be stated to 1)0 still higher in favour of the Established Church. The average number of its communi- cants is 830. Education. — There are 5 schools within the bounds of this pa- rish, — in four of which the teachers undertake to give instruction in Latin, arithmetic and book-keeping, writing, English reading and grammar. The parish schoolmaster has the maximum salary appointed by Act of Parliament, and provision is made by the heritors for a salary of L. 5, 12s. to two of the other teachers. The fees at all these schools are 2s. 6d. per quarter for English reading, 36. for writing, 3s. 6d. for arithmetic, and 4s. for Latin ; but as the higher branches always include the lower, the greatest sum paid by one pupil for education is 16s. a^year. With such facilities for instruction, it is not surprising that there should be scarcely a single native of the parish who cannot read ; but as this has happily been the case for many years, it is impossible now to ascertain the change which may have been produced upon the character of the parishioners by the universal prevalence of educa- GALSTON. 189 tion. Without doubt this universal capacity of reading, exercised as 4t is by a public library, containing a considerable number of useful and entertaining books, must have a powerful influence in increasing the enjoyments, and improving the morals of the people. Yet, notwithstanding the ample provision thus made for the education of youth, the state and prospects of the manufacturing community in Galston have for several years been such as to excite strong apprehensions that the education of their children would for the future be neither so general nor so complete. The wages of the hand-weavers have been so very low as to render it impossible for many of them to pay for the instruction of their children, even at the moderate rate of 10s. a-year. In these circumstances, the inbabttants of Galston have great cause to congratulate themselves, that the late Mr Charles Blair of Lon^bouse, one of the heritors of the parish, bequeathed the whole of his property, amounting to nearly L. 4000, for the erection and endowment of a free school. It is expressly ordered in Mr Blair's will, that no steps be taken for this purpose, till the free annual rent of his bequest amount to L. 200 a-year ; and on this account the parish will not begin to reap the actual benefits of this laudable institution till after the ex- piration of six or eight years. In the meantime, however, it is pro- per to state, that a legacy of L. 1000, left by John Brown, Esq. of Waterhaughs, for a similar purpose has for many years furnished the means of clothing and educating six children from the parish of Galston, and as many from that of Loudon. It is) scarcely ne- cessary to add, that these two charitable bequests have been put under the most judicious regulations, and that they promise to pro- duce the most extensive and beneficial efiects upon the intellectual and moral state of the community. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid for a period of seven years prior to 1832 was 24 annually. The average allowance to each per year is L. 4, 1 8s. ditto per week. Is. 10^ The annual sum expended in their sup- port, L. 117, 4s. 9d.; of which there arose from collections, &c. L.48, 186. 9d.; from assessment upon the heritors (alone,) L. 68, 6s. It must be remarked, however, that the number of poor, and the sum expended upon their maintenance, has greatly increased within the two years lately expired, so that the assessment for the poor alone amounted, in 1832, to L. 215. The great mass of the people are sufficiently sensible of the degradation that is in- separable from a state of dependence, and are sufficiently backward 190 AYRSHIRE. to apply for parochial aid. But there is a pretty numerous class of the manufacturing population who have been taught to found their claims for support not upon the statutes nor the legalized practice, of the nation, and still less upon the principles of Christian charity ; but upon some vague notions of natural right It is not surprising that some persons of this class should neither be very solicitous to provide for their own independence, no? very reasonable in their de* mauds when £hey come to stand in need of relief. Fairs, — There are annually four fairs in Galston, none of which, however, is of public importance. The most frequented are held on the third Thursday of April, and on the 6rst Thursday of De- cember. Alehouses, — The number of alehouses or rather of whisky shops is 14, — a number which will be thought by far too great for the population. But little advantage would be gained by the mere di- minution of their numbers, if the deleterious fluid which they retail can be procured from the spirit-dealers at its present low price, and consumed as it is at present in the drunkard's own house, and even in the fields. There are now only four corn-mills and one lint or flax-milU The paper-mill mentioned in the former report still remains, and two of the others have been converted into saw-mills. Miscellaneous Observations. When the present state of the parish of Galston is compared with what it was in 1790, it will certainly be found in many re- spects to have undergone considerable changes, and, as far as out- ward appearances are concerned, great improvements. The sys- tem of agriculture is indeed nearly the same, and perhaps it is that which is best suited to the soil and climate. But the implements with which the husbandman now labours are far more perfect, and the skill and industry with which he conducts his operations much greater. The hand of taste has also adorned the barren moors with thriving woods and smiling pastures, and rendered the pros- pect from Molmonc Hill fairer and more enchanting than ever. It is in the moral aspect of this parish that any thing like decay or de- terioration is to be found. The cotton manufacture, along with wealth and population, has introduced its too frequent attendants, vice and impiety. And although Galston has perhaps less reason to bewail these unhappy changes than many parishes in a similar situation, it must still furnish its quota to the accumulating mass of practical evidence which damps the benevolent aspirations of the ARDROSSAN. 191 philanthropist, annihilates his Utopian visions of earthly perfection,* and proves that even the blessings of civilization are always alloy- ed, and sometimes outweighed, by evils from which it seems to be inseparable. July 1837. PARISH OF ARDROSSAN. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JOHN BRYCE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Ardrossan is the only name by which this parish has been ever known. It may be derived from the Celtic words, Ardj high, ro8j a promontory, and an, a diminutive, and may signify a highish promontory, which is descriptive enough of the small hill, on which the remains of the Castle of the ancient Barons of Ar- drossan still stand. Situation^ Boundaries^ ifc. — This parish issituatedin the district of Cuninghame, the north division of the county of Ayr. It is bounded on the south-west by the Frith of Clyde ; on the north- east by Dairy ; on the south-east by Stevenstonand Kilwinning ; and on the north-west t)y West Kilbride. It extends in length about 6 miles ; its greatest breadth is about 4 miles ; and it contains, ac- cording to Robertson, about 1 1 square miles. Topographical Appearaiices. — The surface is a mixture of hilly and flat country, and almost all of it fit for the plough. From the south-east corner of the parish, for more than a mile, the ground along the shore may be described as an inclined plane of consi- derable breadth, gently rising towards hills of difierent heights, which nearly stretch across the whole parish. These hills increase in height towards the north-west, and also approach nearer the shore, where they terminate in steep banks, which bear evident marks of having at one time been washed by the sea. The highest hill in the range is Knockgeorgan^ which is upwards of 700 feet above the level of the sea ; from which, when the atmosphere is £sivourable, the hills in ten counties may be easily seen. The others are of various elevations, to about 400 feet Clumps of 192 AYRSHIRE. trees cover the summits of many of them ; and it were desirable that these were more in number, both for shelter and ornament. From this ridge towards the north-east, the ground declines some- what, but still presents a considerable inequality of surface* Coast. — There is a sea coast of three miles, taking the direct line from Saltcoats to Kilbride ; but following the curvatures of the shore, considerably above four miles. The general character, of the shore is flat Between Saltcoats and Ardrossan there is a beautiful sweeping bay, about three quarters of a mile in length, with a fine sandy beach, which forms a favourite promenade to strangers in the sea-bathuig season. At Ardrossan the shore be- comes more irregular and rocky. Ridges of shelving rocks stretch out to a considerable length on both sides of the Inch, an islet at high water. 3eyond Ardrossan on the north-west, there is an- other bay of greater extent than the one on the south side. From this to the junction of the parish with Ealbride, the coast presents little indentations : the shore becomes more stony and uneven ; oc- casional ridges of rocks are visible at low water ; and a few spe- cimens of boulder-stones may be seen. Islands. — About a mile off the harbour of Ardrossan towards the north-west, there is a small islet, called the Horse Isle, which, according to Pont, takes its name, not from horses being pastur- ed in it, " hot from ye surname of Horsse of ye Philipe Horsse, sone-in-law to Sr Richard Morwell, who, in old evidents, wea stylled Phillipus de Horssey, Janitor Comitis Gallovidise.'' It contains about twelve acres of good pasture, with a tolerable sup- ply of fresh-water. It lies very low, and there is a beacon-tower erected upon it for the benefit of seamen, by the late Earl of Eglinton. It is to be regretted that a light-house had not been established instead of it. With a view to procure one, petitions from all the towns on the coast were, some years ago, forwarded to the Commissioners of Light-houses, but their prayer has not yet been granted. Climate. — The climate is in general mild and pleasant, the sea breeze moderating both the heat of summer and the cold of winter. There is no disease which may be said to be peculiarly prevalent in this parish. The dryness of the soil, the absence of marshes, and the constant sea breeze, tend to render it very healthy. Cholera, which was so fiaital in the neighbouring towns of Steven- ston. Dairy, and Kilbride in 18d2, never appeared here. Typhus and other epidemics occur occasionally, but they are always ARDROSSAN. 193 of short continuance. The quaint though equivocal commen* datioD of the climate by a medical practitioner is, ^< that fevers won't live mth us." The great resort of valetudinary people here in the season of bathing is an evidence of the general opinion of its salubrity. And the great age to which many of the people at- tain is an indubitable proof of it Hydrography. — There is no stream in the parish deserving the name of river. Two small streamlets, the Stanley and Monfode bums, descend from the higher grounds to the shor^ on each side of Ar- drossan ; and a third, the Munnock, or Caddel Bum, considerably larger, in the upper part of the parish, falls into the Caaf, which di- vides the parish on the north-east from Dairy. There is abundance of springs, and the water good. Near the shore, however, and espe- cially in the town of Ardrossan, the water is hard and somewhat impr^nated with the carbonate of iron, which makes it, though wholesome enough, not so useful for cooking and washing. At a very small expense, water of an excellent quality, and in sufficient quantity, could be brought from the high grounds, to supply both the town and harbour of Ardrossan. There is a small chalybeate 2$pring between Saltcoats and Ardrossan, but it has never been analysed, and its virtues are unknown. Mineralogy. — Coal is said to be found throughout nearly the whole parish; and in the northern part and neighbourhood of Saltcoats, it has been wrought to a considerable extent. At pre- sent there is no coal wrought There are three limestone quar- ries in the upper part of the parish, which are wrought more or less. Two of them are the property of Lord Eglinton, and the other of Archibald Cuninghame, Esq. of CaddeL The tenants on their respective properties are kindly allowed the use of these quarries gratis. The lime is of a good quality, and the quarry on Girthill being level firee, the stone is dug at present for about a shilling per ton. Freestone, both red and white, is very abundant At the town of Ardrossan, there is a large quarry of the former, of which the quay and many of the houses in the town are built In this quarry, Robertson says, that petrifactions of wood were met with, apparently of fir; in some cases with the bark entire. Since the formation of the railway, the fiicility with which stone of a superior quality can be procured from the Stevenston quarry has almost superseded the working of the Ardrossan freestone. At Ardrossan, too, are found various kinds of whinstoue ; whole rocks of which have been blown down and carried away to form AYR. N 194 AYRSHIRE the breakwater at the harbour. On the west side of the baths, within high water-mark, there are several strata of excellent ironstone, from two inches to nearly five feet in thickness ; but which lying on their edge could not be wrought but at very great expense. These strata are separated from one another by slate. Several specimens of pyrites have also been found in this neigh- bourhood, but they are rare. Geology. — There are many appearances that lead us to conclude that a considerable portion of the lower grounds of this parish were, at a period not extremely distant, under the dominion of the sea. Sub-fossil sea-shells, such as are at present found on the shore, have been found in gravel pits, and in the earthy banks of Stanley Burn, as fiir up as Kirkhall. They have also been found in a sec- tion of the Castlehill, pretty near the summit. The greatest mass, however, of these shells that we have seen, is in the sandy bank of this bum, a little above the railway bridge, and near the Holm' Nursery. In a section of the bank, about 4^ feet above the level of the stream, and about 6 feet above the present level of the sea at high-water, there is a pretty extensive stratum of shells, about 2 feet under the surface of the ground, at some places above, and at other places below, a bed of sand and water-worn stones. The predominant shell is Mactra stibtruncata. We observed also Turbo Kttaretigf Nerita littoralis^ Trochtu dneraritu^ Mytiba edvlis^ and TeUina tenuis. Some of the Mactra were filled with sear-weed^ but we could not with certainty determine the species. In one of the shells we found a specimen of coralline, which could easily be ascertained to be Sertularia polyzanias. From the various pheno- mena that present themselves, we have no doubt that the C&stlehill at Ardrossan was once an island. That the water has receded along this shore there can be no doubt At the Castlehill, above noticed, there is still pointed out a spot at which boats were fasten- ed to the rock. This spot is now distant from the water at high mark about 400 yards. Pont, the topographer of Cuninghame, who wrote circa 1620, speaks of a well in the castle that ebbed and flowed with the tide. He has also the following notice : ^* Nette lyle is a small lyland neir ye Castell of Ardrossan, quher ye Earle of Eglintoune hath a salmond fisching by netts, from which ye lyland is so named." So fiur has the water receded, that the piece of ground here alluded to (the Inch) never appears as an island ex- cept at high water ; and it is not at all known by its former name. In the low lands of Homebyre, in the upper part of the parish. ARDROSSAN. 195 in 18d2y between 4 and 7 feet below the sur&ce, there were dug up a great number of hazel nuts with the kernels entire, but so tender as scarcely to bear being handled. SoiL — Between the sea and the foot of the hills the soil is in ge- neral light and sandy, and in the higher and more inland parts, it 18 chiefly of a tough clay, though in many places mixed with a bet- ter kind of earth. Throughout the whole parish, the soil may be said to be fertile ; rendered so by long cultiyation, and in the lower parts by the copious application of sea-ware, and in the higher, by draining and the free use of lime. Zoology. — Much attention is paid to the breed both of horses and cows, especially of the latter. The Cuninghame breed of cows is well known, and highly valued, both on account of the beauty of their form, and the quantity of milk which they yield. The Cuninghame or Ayrshire cow is of a moderate size, generally of a brown colour, mixed with white spots; the neck and head small; the horns short ; the limbs slender ; the udder finely shaped ; the body straight from the shoulder to the tail, and all the parts well proportioned. When and by whom this breed of cows was intro* duced into the country, or from what place they were brought, are questions which ha?e never received a satisfactory answer. About eighteen years ago, a peculiar race of cows was kept in Lord £^lin* ton's parks at Ardrossan. They had no horns, were all white, with the exception of the muzzle and inside of the ears, which were black. When fully grown they weighed from twenty-five to thirty stones avoirdupois. Their number was limited, and being very shy, they had to be killed by shooting, which it required some precaution to accomplish. At his Lordship's death they were all sold ofi*, and with them, according to some, perished the la3t remains of the breed of the ancient cows of Scotland. Besides the horses employed in husbandry, a few are bred for sale ; many young cattle reared, and cows fattened for slaughter. Some of the farmers keep a few sheep, and almost all of them pigs, which in summer are fed with whey, of which those who make cheese have a greater quantity than they can either sell or use in their own families. Sea-birds of almost every name frequent the coast, and many of them lay their ^gs ' and hatch their young on the Horse Isle. The rocks along the shore towards the north of Ardrossan are much frequented by seals. Otters are found in the Stanley and Caddel Bums, and Caa£ Polecats are no strangers, and the badger may sometimes be seen in Monfode bank. There is a large fox cover on Knock-georgan. 196 AYRSHIRE. The weasel, hedgehog, mole, and rat are found. Hares and par* tridges abound, and grouse and black-cock are tolerably abundant in Busby Moor. Pheasants, wood-pigeons, wild-duck, teal, and lapwing, are also found. The cuckoo, land-rail, and the swallow, annually visit the parish. The starling and swift build in the ruins of Ardrossan Castle. Fish of the following species are caught on the coast: salmon, haddock, cod, whiting, ling, mackarel, herrings, sole, flounder, skate, turbot, mullet, &c. — Crabs and lobsters are also found. The quantity of shell-fish is but small. CoralUncM. D. operculata CellularU reptans Dynamena abietina Sertularia polyzonias Crisia ebumea, &c. Botany. — For the following lists the compiler is indebted to his excellent neighbour, the minister of Stevenston. Phcenogamous Plants. Cicuta virosa C. articulata Pinguiciila vulgaris Malva inoscfaata Odonthalia dentate P. Lusitanica Carum verticillatum Rhodomelia lyoopodioides Lycopus Europeus Sagina procumbens, fl. pi. Delesseria sanguinea, &c. Anaffallis tenella Dipaacus sylvestris Vaccinium vitis- Idasa Pedicularis sylvatica, v. alba. Mouet. V. oxycoocos Habenaria bifolia Hookeria lucens BellisperennisyV. prolifera Carex yedcaria Polytrichum urnigerum Eupatorium cannabinum Spergula nodosa Didymodon rigididus Camelina sativa Botrychium lunaria D. crispulus Empetrum nigrum Salicornia herbaoea Brvum carneum Triglocbin maritimum Hyinenopbyllum Wilsoni Tnchostomum fasciculare Barbarea vulgaris Griznmia maritima Lynmacbia thyrsiilora Algte, Jungermannla tricuspidate CEnanthe crocate Lichina pygmaea Dicranum adiantoides (E. pimpinelloides Plocamium coccineum D. bryoides, &c« Conium maculatum Chylooladia kaliformis 11. — Civil History. Of the ancient history of this parish hardly any thing worth notice is known. A modem account of it was published by Mr Robertson of Bowerlodge, in 1819, in his description of Cuning- hame. • Eminent Men. — Of eminent men connected with the parish there is no record, unless Dr Robert Simpson, the celebrated Professor of Mathematics in the University of Glasgow, be excepted. The professor was an heritor in the parish, and passed the recess of col« l^e for many years on his own property at Knockewart. Land-owners^ with their respective valttatians : — The Earl of Eglinton, - - - L. 1973 4 8 Archibald Cuninghame of Caddel, . - 240 16 8 James Carrick Moore of Corsetrall, - 213 S 6 Captain John Brooks of Knockewart, - - 126 13 4 John Dunlop, of Dunlop, - - 115 Colonel Alexander Hamilton of Grange, - • 50 The Heirs of Mrs Morris of BankencC - - 50 John Gemmil of Little Laught, - - 30 12 Robert Weir of KirkhaU, - - - 26 Thomas Yonng of Springvale, - - 15 6 8 L.2840 16 10 ARDROSSAN. 197 The last two excepted, none of these heritors are resident in the parish. Parochial Registers. — From a memorandum in one of the vo- lumes, of date 1755, it appears that registers of baptisms, from May 28, 1682 till May 23, 1725, had been regularly kept, but which have long been lost. From 1742 till 1787, lists of baptisms and marriages have been regularly kept, and with a little interrup- tion at this period till 1802, — from which last date till 1816 they are very imperfect ; but they have since been kept with great ac- curacy. Antiquities. — Only a very imperfect account can be given of any remains of antiquity that are yet to be seen in the parish. The di- lapidated remains of the Castle of Ardrossan, a venerable monu- ment of time long gone by, stand on the small promontory{above- mentioned, which gives name to the parish. It is said that this castle, in the days of Baliol, being in the hands of the English, Wallace, with some trusty followers, came secretly to the neigh- bourhood, and set fire, at night, to the village at the base of the Castle-hill. The garrison seeing the flames, and not suspecting the enemy to be at hand, hurried forth to quench the fire, when Wallace and his chosen band rushed in, and having taken posses- sion of the gates, slew all the English as they returned, and cast their dead bodies into the dungeon, which, from that circumstance, was called Wallace's Larder.* This once princely mansion is said to have been habitable so late as the time of Oliver Cromwell, who is reported to have reduced it to its present ruinous state. In .the former Statistical Account of this parish, it is said that ^' he threw down the walls of the castle, carried the stones over sea in boats, and with them built the fort of Ayr." Two fragments are now all that remain. The castle and barony of Ardrossan an- ciently belonged to a powerful family of the same name, according to some, or Barclay, according to others ; f perhaps to both at * In making a cut, close by the south side of the castle, for the railway in 1629, a large massy gilt bronze ring, with signet, was found, and which, from the letter W on it, is supposed to have belonged to this noble assertor of his country's independence. The ring is now in the possession of the Rev. David Landsborough of Stevenston. f The first of this family, says Robertson, that has come under my notice is, Dom. Fergus Ardrossan de eodem, in 1260. .A Sir Fergus de Ardrossan accompanied Edward Bruce in his Irish expedition in 1316. The last of them mentioned in any record that I have seen is Godfrey de Ardrossan, who is witness to an undated charter in the reign of David II. to the Abbot of Kilwinning.— Hist, uf Cuninghame. Fergus of Ardrossan was one of the Scots barons who, in 1320, signed the celebrat- ed letter to the Pope, complaining of the aggressions and pretensions of Edward of England. Arthurus de Ardrossan is witness to a charter Hugeni de Crawford dc terris de Monaeh, in 1226. 198 AITRSHIRE. different times. The last baron leaving at his death an only sister, or an only child, a daughter, she carried the estate by marriage to the Eglintons of Englinton, from whence it came soon after to the Montgomery family, by marriage of the heiress of Eglinton. Since the union of these two families by this marriage, the estate has continued for several centuries the property of the Earls of Eglinton. On the estate of Monfode, or Montfode, as it is now written, there stands an old baronial castle, much injured by time and the hand of man. The estate of Monfode continued for many ages the property of a family of the same name ; but it passed froin them about a century and a half ago, and no vestige now remains to tell that they once existed. * It at present belongs to Mr Carrick Moore, of Corsewall, brother of the lamented General Sir John Moore, who so bravely fell at Corunna. On Knock-georgan are still distinctly to be seen the remains of an ancient camp or fortification, particularly the ramparts and gateways. From its circular form it is generally supposed to be Danish. On another hill there is an artificial mound of the form of a parallelogram, sixteen yards in length, nine in breadth at the top ; and its sides, which are sloping, about nine yards in height. The above fortification and mound stand in very elevated situa- tions, from which there is a prospect for many miles both of sea and land. Tradition has preserved no information concerning the persons by whom, or the design for which, they were erected* Modem Buildings. — Of modem buildings may be mentioned, 1. The town-house of Saltcoats, a moderately sized building of two stories, with a handsome spire, clock, and bell. It contains one spacious room, which is used as a reading-room, and for the monthly meetings of the Justice of the Peace Court for the dis- trict There are, besides a small lock-up, a room for the town library, and a committee roonu The ground floor is occupied with shops. 2. A branch of the Ayrshire Banking Company has with* in these few years been established in Saltcoats, with excellent new premises. 3. The Gaelic chapel, now finished, situated at the west end of the town of Saltcoats, facing Ardrossan. It is a neat * Agnes de Monfode, says Robertson, was married to a Sir John Douglas in the reign (? David II. This is the earliest notice that I have seen of them. In 1417, Finlam de Monibde de eodem appears on an inquest at Irvine, llie last time that anv of them is ibund in any record that I have seen is in 1661, when John de Mon- Ibde of Monibde is named among the commissioners of supply for the shire of Ayr. 4 ARDROSSAN. 199 small Grothic buflding, with Saxon door-way, small belfry — and the ground around it walled in, with pillars and iron rails in front. IIL — Population. The state of the population of this parish at an early period can- not be given with certainty, as no record of it has been kept; but there is satis&ctory evidence to shew that it has tripled within less than a century : — PopulAdonin I79I, - 1518 1811, - 2526 1821, - d200 1831, - S595 inclusive of seamen. The constant employment given for many years to a great many hands at the harbour of Ardrossan, — of late years in the formation of the railway, — the great increase of trade by an additional harboiu: within a mile of Saltcoats, — the improved state of agriculture, — many families from Ireland and the Highlands settling in the place, — and a few unconnected with business, from partiality to the situa- tion, either renting houses or building for themselves, — may be sup- posed to account for the increase of the population. Of the present population, from a recent enumeration, there reside in the country part, families ••..... 58 In the town of Saltcoats, do. ...... 575 Ardrossan, do. . . 184 Total number of fitmilies at present 817, and average number in each fiunily above 4^ The yearly average of births for the last seven years is about . 90 of deaths .... 70 of marriages .... 90 Number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 50 women upwards of 45, . . 1 42 The number of blind persons, 1 ; insane, 2; fatuous, 1. The number of proprietors of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards is . 8 No nobility reside in the parish. Character^ S^c. of the People. — In 1650, various cases of witch- craft occurred in this parish, as appears firom the records of the Presbytery of Irvine. Among others, Mai^ret Couper and Ka- tharine Montgomerie, both of Saltcoats, were apprehended on pre- sumption of tliis crime, and on what was the chief evidence in such matters, ^' common bruit." They confessed the usual charges of renouncing their baptism, taking a new name from the devil, of having familiar intercourse with him, and of '^ sundrie malefices, and drawing on of others to the devil's service." So late as 1735, a man and his wife in this parish were laid under sentence of lesser excomn^unication, for consulting a fortune-teller at Paisley, to find out the person who had stolen their money. These crimes and customs have now disappeared. Would we could add, that there was an equal decrease of all other crimes. But though we have cer. 200 AYRSHIRE. tainly too many among us who have cast off all fear of Grod, and yield themselves up to the practice of wickedness in some of its most degrading forms, yet the people in general are sober and in- dustrious, and distinguished for a regard to religion and its ordi- nances. Not only is the form of godliness kept up, but its power appears to be felt, by not a few among them maintaining a coaver- sation becoming the gospel. The illegitimate births for the last three years do not average more than one yearly. There are, however, many children be- gotten previous to the marriage of the parties.* IV. — Industry. Agricultural and Rural Economy » — The parish contains about 5520 Scots acres, of which there are at an aTerage under crop, 1250 in cultivated grass lands and meadows, 2820 in gardens and plantations, • 150 in hill pasture, . 1800 Bent ofLandi Sfc. — The valued rent of the parish is L. 2840, 16s. lOd. Scotch. Its real rent is about L. 7800 Sterling. The average rent of land is L. 1, 10s. per acre. The duration of leases is from twelve to nineteen years. The lands are all enclosed ; the farms skilfully managed. The steadings are almost all slated, and are comfortable and commodious. Fisheries. — Salmon are taken both at Ardrossan and Saltcoats, in considerable numbers, in what is called the bag-net, and are mostly forwarded, per coach, to the Glasgow, Paisley, and Kilmar- nock markets, and sometimes to Liverpool. The white-fishing is carried on to a very trifling extent, but there are from fifteen to twenty boats regularly employed in the herring-fishing. The lochs in the West and North Highlands are their principal fishing grounds, though herrings are frequently caught in considerable numbers in Saltcoats bay. Some of our boats go to the cod and ling fishing on the coasts of Barra and other islands, and are ge- nerally well repaid for their toil and risk. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows: Oats, - 5565 quarters. Wheat, - - 671 do. Potatoes and turnips, 1897 tons. Cultivated hay, - 692 do. Meadow hay, - 190 do. Cheese, - 10,000 stones. Stock. — Number of horses and cattle in the parish for year 1886: horses, 131 ; milk cows, 675; cattle, 570; and sheep, 184. * There are two or three large families of unbaptised bastards in the parish. ARDROSSAN. 201 Agricultural Socieiy4 — A society, embracing nine contiguous parishes, formed with the view of giving encouragement to the raising of live-stock and other agricultural produce, holds its meet- ings in this parish. It is chiefly supported by the farmers. Lord Eglinton is patron, and several of the county ^ntlemen are mem- bers of it. Its annual meeting is held on the fourth Thursday of November, when premiums are awarded to successful competitors for stock, farm» and dairy produce. Premiums are also given for the best managed farms, and the most neatly kept courts and en- trances about the steadings. V. — Parochial Economt. In this parish there are two sea ports, Saltcoats and Ardrossan. Saltcoats. — Saltcoats stands partly in the parish of Stevenston, and partly in this parish. The harbour is in the Stevenston part of Saltcoats. The town contains about 4000 inhabitants, of whom nearly two-thirds belong to this parish. The population consists chiefly of sailors and weavers, shopkeepers, joiners, masons, black- smiths, &C. The weavers, who form a large proportion of the in- habitants, (there are upwards of 450 looms in the Ardrossan side of Saltcoats,) are chiefly employed by the manufacturers of Glas- gow and Paisley. The kind of work done is lappets, gauzes, shawls, trinunings, silks, &c. Many families are employed in sew- ing muslin. Ardrossan, — Ardrossan, which may be said to be the capital of the parish, owes its origin to its harbour, and is yet only in its in- fancy. It is built on a regular plan, and, when completed, will do honour to the taste and judgment of the projector, the late Hugh Earl of Eglinton. The streets are wide, straight, and cross at right angles. The houses are all of two storeys, well finished, neat and comfortable. There are several very excellent houses built for sea- bathing quarters, and which afford very genteel and commodious lodgings. There are a few good shops which supply the necessa- ries and conveniences of life, and sea-chandlery on a small scale. Ardrossan has hitherto been well frequented as a sea-bathing place.* Ship-building on a small scale, is carried on, by an active and en- terprising man, a Mr Henderson, who has hitherto found it to be no unprofitable speculation. The town of Ardrossan is a place of * The late Duke of Buccleuch, the Earl of Home, the Earl of Glasgow, the Lor J Justice- Clerk, the late Sir Alexander Muir Mackeniie, of DeWine, Lady Olivia Sparrow, Lord and Lady Mandeville, and several other families of distinction* have spent the summer at Ardrossan for the benefit of sea-bathing. 202 AYRSHIRE. 6uch rising importanee as to merit a somewhat lengthened and par- ticular account /nn. — The inn or hotel, one of the best in any country town in Scotland, affords every accommodation which can be required. It contains ten public rooms, and eighteen bed-rooms, with cold and warm baths. The offices, too, are excellent and extensive. Baths, — The baths of Ardrossan,*--a large and somewhat elegant building, — are well known, and deservedly in repute. They were projected by the late Earl, on the tontine principle, in the year 1807. For many years after his Lordship's death they were shut up, and the premises allowed to &11 into a state of decay. In the year 1833} they were brought to a public sale, and purchased by A. Mac&dzean, Esq., M. D., the present proprietor, who has at considerable expense put them again into a complete state of re- pair. The basins are all of marble, with dressing-rooms attach- ed to each. There is one fitted up expressly for the poor, which is open to them gratis. There may now be got almost at a moment's notice, hot, cold, shower, shock, and vapour baths. Attached to the baths, there is a large and commodious lodging, which is ge- nerally occupied during the bathing season. Crescent, — Around tlie fine sweeping bay which the sea forms between Ardrossan and Saltcoats, there is a plan of a crescent formed, which, when filled up, will be unequalled, both for beauty of situation, and magnificence of design. A number of very hand* some villas, uniform in line, but varied in style, have already been erected, and are generally occupied by their respective proprietors. The pavilion, a very handsome building, is the occasional residence of Lord Eglinton. Harbour. — The harbour of ArdroFsan is formed on a most mag- nificent design, and were it to be completed according to the ori- ginal plan, would scarcely be inferior to any in the kingdom. It was originally projected by Lord Eglinton, who was joined in carrying it into execution by several gentlemen of Ayrshire, and other places, taking shares in the undertaking. The expense of the work, however, far exceeding the sum subscribed by the share- holders, the whole subsequent expense devolved upon his Lordship, to the amount, it is said, of little less than L. 100,000. The work was carried on with great spirit by the Earl as long as he lived, but has been suspended since his death. The harbour, though unfinished, is capable of accommodating at present a great number of vessels of almost any size ; there being from 12 to ARDROSSAN. 203 20 feet of depth at high water. It is secure against almost all winds, — the roll of the sea in a storm is very inconsiderable ; and in rough weather it is frequently crowded with vessels, which flee thither for safety* Its situation is the most favourable on the whole frith, both for inland purposes and foreign intercourse* Vessels in the coal trade, both from Irvine and Saltcoats, often come to Ardros- san to complete their cargo, where they can be fully loaded at any state of the tide. The number of arrivals, including steamers, at this quay, for the year ending 1st of January last, is as follows : Number of vessels, ... 1963 Amount of tonnage, - - - 108,549 Number of hands employed, men and boys, 10,1 10 Life-ioat. — Belonging to the harbour there is an excellent life- boat, the gift of the late Earl, which has successfully been employ- ed several times within these few years, in rescuing seamen from the wrecks of their vessels on the Stevenston shore. Railway, — In forming the harbour of Ardrossan, Lord Eglin- ton entertained the firm belief, that, from its advantageous posi- tion, it would one day become the harbour of Glasgow, and there- by render unnecessary the circuitous navigation of the Clyde. To carry this design into execution, to unite the harbour and the town of Glasgow, a canal was projected, but was never finished further than from Glasgow to Johnstone, in Renfrewshire. In 1827, an act of Parliament was obtained to form a railway from Ardrossan to join the canal at Johnstone. The capital raised, however, was only sufficient to complete a single line of railway to Kilwinning, a distance of six miles inland, with a branch of about four miles in length into the Eglinton coal-fields. It was opened in 1832. For two years after- wards, there was comparatively little trade on it; but in 1834, the present Earl of Eglinton having opened up several additional coal pits, the shipping of coal at Ardrossan was begun, and has since been carried on with great spirit. It is believed that the gross tonnage carried along the railway during last year, (1836,) was not less than 60,000 tons. About the same time, (1834,) a carriage for the conveyance of passengers between Ardrossan and Irvine, and the intermediate towns on the line, was started ; but such was the uncertainty of its succeeding by running at regular hours, that it was kept to be hired for pleasure trips. The Railway Company, however, took the business into their own hands, and ran at fixed and regular hours ; since which time, the trade in that department has regidarly increased. The number of passengers for the three last years is as follows : 204 AYRSHIRE. For year ending aOtb September 1884, 700 1835, . 21,000 1886, - 29,061 The majority of the travellers by the railway are of the middle and lower classes, to meet whose coDveDience the fares are at the Tery lowest remunerating rate, being only one penny per mOe. In consequence of the great increase, both of goods and passen- gers, a single line is found to be insufficient to aSbrd the necessary accommodation. To remedy this the company have applied to Parliament for an act, to enable them to raise funds to lay a double line of railway, and to adopt locomotive power thereupon. There is now every probability that the great Glasgow and Ayr railway will go on ; an excellent junction between which and the Ardrossan railway will be effected, at a trifling expense, at Kilwinning. — and thus the communication between Ardrossan and Glasgow be com- pleted. Were this accomplished it could not fail to prove a great public benefit The projected line passes through a large tract of country rich in the most valuable minerals, and containing se- veral large and populous villages. The whole of the manu&ctur- ing and shipping towns in the west of Scotland would thereby be brought into immediate connection with Paisley and Glasgow, and perhaps ultimately, if the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway be car- ried through, with Edinburgh ; and thus a direct communication be opened up between the two seas. The advantages of this great line of railway are fully set forth in the Mining, Railway, and Steam Navigation Gazette of the 31st December last, from which the fol- lowing extract is made : ^' The position which this harbour (of Ardrossan) occupies is very favourable, being situated at the mouth of the Clyde, and within thirty miles by railway of Glasgow. Parties requiring to travel from Glasgow or Edinburgh, and the north of Ireland or Liverpool, when this railway is executed, will be able to accomplish the journey in at least eight hours and a-half from Edinburgh, and five hours from Glasgow, less time than what is required in sailing at present from Ardrossan to Belfast. In most instances a night passage will be avoided. The time required to pro- ceed at present from Glasgow to Belfast by water conveyance, is from fourteen to fifteen hours, while from Edinburgh at least twenty hours are required. The passage from Ardrossan to Belfast is from six to six and a-half hours, so that the whole time required to travel from Edinburgh and Glasgow to Belfast would not exceed seven and a- faalf hours from Glasgow, and nine and a-half from Edinburgh. Ar- drossan is one of the most fashionable watering-places on the west ARDROSSAN. 205 coast of Scotland, and would be rendered by a railway the nearest and most accessible." Means of Communication. — 1. Saltcoats is a post-town, to which Ardrossan is a penny-post. The mail, conveyed on horse- back from Kilmarnock, arrives every morning at half-past eight o'clock, and departs at four o'clock afternoon. There is a daily runner to and from Kilbride. Packets twice a week during winter, and every lawful day in summer, carry the letter-bag to and from Arran.* 2. There are coaches every lawful day to and firom Glas- gow, by Paisley and Beith, and to and from Kilmarnock by Irvine. In summer there are two more daily coaches, one from Glasgow and another from Kilmarnock. 3. Steam-boats every lawful day to and from Glasgow and Ayr, and the intermediate ports, and once a week to and from Stranraer. In summer there is a steamer which plies regularly betwixt Ardrossan and Arran, leaving Ar- drossan on the arrival of the morning coaches from Glasgow and Kilmarnock at about half-past ten o'clock, and returning in time for the starting of the same coaches at about half-past six o'clock in the evening. Thus a person may leave Glasgow or Kilmarnock in the morning, visit Arran, spend some hours amidst its wildest scenery, enjoy a view from the frith of the whole western coast, and sleep in his own house at night. The passengers last year to and from Arran during the summer months were nearly 7000 monthly.-f 4. Carriers twice a week to Glasgow, to Kilmarnock and Beith weekly, and to Irvine two daily. 5. The railway convey- ances have been noticed above. As soon as a railway has been opened up either to Glasgow or Kilmarnock, and locomotive power employ- ed thereon, it is in contemplation to start a steamer from Ardros- san to Belfast, for which there is a large sum already subscribed. Roads. — The turnpike road from Irvine to Greenock passes through the whole breadth of the parish, along the shore. There are also two tolerably well-kept roads, one from Ardrossan, and the other firom Saltcoats to Dairy. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated in the town of Saltcoats, and is convenient for the majority of the parishioners, though too distant for many. It was built in the year 1774, and is seated for about 840. There is something curious in the pe- regrinations and mischances of the churches of this parish. The * By some alterations taking place in the post-office department, we have at pre- sent two arrivals and two departures daily. f Owing, it is supposed, to the depresed state of commerce this summer, these coaches have not been running. 206 AYRSHIRE. church originally stood on the Castlehill of Ardrossan, where its foundations may still be traced, and where may be seen the old churchyard, in which sleeps many a generation now forgotten and unknown. This church was blown down by a violent storm of wind in the year 1691, when another was built about half a mile more inland, and in a more sheltered situation. Abont the year 1744 this church was taken down and removed to Saltcoats, where the present one now stands. In February 1779, Mr Dow, the then minister of the parish, reported to the presbytery, ^' that the church of Ardrossan had been so much shaken by the storm upon the 20th of last month, that the parishioners ever since had assembled in it with terror." It was eventually ordered to be taken down, and was rebuilt in 1774, with the slight alterations of fourteen feet only being taken off the length of it, and the removal of the front aisle. There is great need of the present church being enlarged ; or, what would still be more desirable, a new church built in Ardrossan, and that town, with a section of the landward part of the parish most convenient to it, erected into a separate parish. It may not perhaps be out of place here to give a list of the ministers of this parish, so far as is known. 1. The earliest reformed minister of the parish of whom any no- tice bas been found is named in a letter of Regent Murray's to the General Assembly of 1569. The Regent says, " Mairover at our coming, at Aberdeen, there came ane named Porterfield, minister, provydit of before to the viccarage of Ardrossane, and required also of us that he micht have the viccarage of Stein- sone, seeing both was ane matter meine aneuch to sustaine him, and because the kirks war neir, he micht discharge the cure of both." Two years prior to this it appears that Alexander Hen- derson was exhorter at Ardrossan, at 40 merks of salary. He was ^^ translatit" to Stewarton, and was succeeded by William Montgomery. 2. Alexander Campbell, rector of Ardrossan, is witness to a sasine, (penes Robert Cuniaghame of Auchinharvie) in 1593. 3. Alexander Dunlop was deposed in 1646, and suc- ceeded in the year following by, 4. Ralph Roger, who was trans- lated, and succeeded by, 5. John Bell, who was one of the indul- ged ministers. On 26th January 1671, the privy-council made an act confining all indulged ministers to their respective parishes. Wodrow states, that " Mr John Bell, minister at Ardrossan, being confined to his parish, his fiither living within a mile of him, fiiUs ARDROSSAN. 207 sick, and he must apply to the council to visit his dying father* They allow him, indeed, by their act, (22d June 1671,) but with a proviso, that he go to no other house without his parish in com- ing and going." For want of encourageoiient, both as to mainte- nance and meeting-house, Mr Bell demitted his chai^ in 1688. 6. Thomas Clerk was ordained in 1691, and died in 1737. 7. Ro- bert Dow was ordained in 1789, and died in 1787. 8b John Duncan was ordained in 1789, and died in 1819. 9. John Hendry was or- dained assistant and successor to Mr Duncan in 1810, and died in 1835 ; and, 10. The present incumbent was ordained assistant and successor to Mr Hendry in July 1830; so that it may be said the pa- rish has been vacant only three times since the Revolution of 1688i» Manse, Sfc — The manse and offices were built upwards of forty years ago. In 1835, the manse was considerably enlarged and thoroughly repaired. The glebe, including garden and site of manse and offices, consists of 5 acres 1 rood. The soil is good, and, from its neamess^to the town of Saltcoats, might be let at between L. 4 and L. 5 per acre. There are L. 20 Scots allow- ed in lieu of a grass glebe, according to an agreement entered into between the presbytery and the heritors, nearly a century ago, though it is on record there was abundance of church lands in the parish. The present stipend is 17 chalders, half meal and half barley, with L. 10 for communion elements.* Gaelic Church. — This church was built by subscription ; cost nearly L. 1000 ; and contains 720 legal sittings. It is also situated in the town of Saltcoats, where the majority of the Highland fa- milies are located. There is no minister appointed as yet A stipend of Lb 80 will be secured in the usual manner, and paid from the seat-rents and collections. Dissenters. — There is one dissenting house in the parish, be- longing to the United Secession. The minister has a house and garden. His stipend is paid from the seat-rents and collections. The parish church is always well attended. The seats are let * By » grant of the heritors in 1747» the minister has the privilege of gathering and leading of sea wrack, for improving the new glebe, from any part of the shore betwixt the Stanley Bum foot and the harbour of Saltcoats. From the following ex- tract from the presbytery rccordsy it appears that at one tipie he had some other sea privileges. May 18th 1647. ^< The edict of Mr Ralph Roger being called for, was returned forroallie and lawfullie indorseit:— -the presentation being producit and compairit with the prior presentation, it was fund to be deficient in ane clause anent the tea xficcarage, whilk it did not specific at all, but which the presbyterie was con- fident that the two noblemen Eglintone and Montgomerie would rectjfie— the presbyterie being hopfull, that the said two noblemen would mend any thing that was deficient in the presentation ; ordaines ^e admissione,'* &c. 208 AYRSHIRE. by public roup. A few free sitdngs are reserved for the poor. The number of communicants on the roll at present is 835 ; and the average number communicating at each dispensation of the Lord's supper is about 654^ Precise ecclesiastical state, as reported to the Church Commissioners, November 1836 : belonging to the Es- tablishment, 2170; belonging to Dissenters of all denominations, 1223; not known to belong to any stated place of worship, 441 ; total population, 3834. Meliffiaus Societies, — The Saltcoats Female Bible and Mission- ary Society has existed above twenty years, and still continues to exert itself with much zeal. It contributes to the funds of diffe- rent religious societies. Its annual income since 1813 averages L.3a Ardrossan and Stevengtan Parochial StM^y.— This society was established in the spring of 1833, and is supported wholly by the contributions of people belonging to the Established Church. Its object is to supply the poor with Bibles at a cheap rate, or gratis, and to educate the children of widows and tradesmen in reduced circumstances. The average yearly expenditure is L. 23, 6s. 8d« and the average number of children on its list at school is about 35 quarterly. The average yearly amount of extra collections for religious and charitable objects is between L. 40 and L. 50. Education. — There are nine schools in the parish. Six, includ- ing the parish school, in Saltcoats ; two in Ardrossan ; and one in the country. The parish school is too small, and the situation confined and unhealthy. The heritors, however, have agreed to build a new one, greatly enlarged, and on a more eligible site. There is also a large and commodious school-house now being built in the town of Ardrossan, at the cost of L. 335 ; the money has been raised by subscription. Government contributing L. 150* The parish schoolmaster's salary is 1| chalders. The average amount of fees about L. 25 ; and the amount of other emoluments about L. 15. The school fees are, 36. for reading; 3s. 9d. for reading and writing; 4s. 6d. for arithmetic ; 6s. for Greek and La- tin per quarter; 10s. 6d. for one course of book-keeping; and L. 1, Is. for navigation. There is much need for a good school- house with a small endowment for the country part of the parish. Literature, — There is a subscription library in the town of Salt- coats, consisting of a good many well selected works, to which sub- scribers only have access. The terms, however, are very mode- ARDROSSAN. 209 rate. There are also the Saltcoats Sabbath School Library ; the Ardrossan Sabbath School Library ; and the Parochial Juvenile Library ; into which books adapted to the young are principally introduced. There is a public reading-room in the town-house of Saltcoats. Charitable and other Institutions. — A savings bank was establish*- ed in Saltcoats about twenty years ago, which has certainly been productive of much good. The number of depositors is 148, viz. 62 males, 62 females, 11 small charitable societies, and 13 indi«- viduals beyond the bounds of Ardrossan and Stevenston. The sum at present deposited is L. 777, 17s. 5d., giving an average of above L. 5, 5s. to each depositor. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor on the roll is above 70, and they receive from 6d. to ds. weekly, according to their necessities. They are supported at an expense of nearly L. 170 a-year, obtained from the collections at the church door; mortcloth and proclamation money ; and a voluntary contribution by the heritors. The collections amount to about L. 80 a-year ; the mortcloth and proclamation money to about L. 20 ; and the sum further required is contributed by the heritors according to their valuation. There is, besides. Service's Bequest of L. 300 ; the interest of which is distributed by the trustees, (the minister, the oldest surgeon, and nearest resident justice of the peace,) among poor householders in the parish. There is little backwardness in implying for relief from the parish funds. They do not look upon this kind of charity as in any way degrading ; and children in good circumstances have been known to allow their parents to receive it.. Fairs. — There are three fairs held in this parish in the course of the year ; one in Saltcoats on the last Thursday of May, for cattle, pigs, shoes, cooper-dishes, &c. ; the other two in Ardrossan ; one of them in July, and the other on the fourth Thursday of No- vember, for cattle and settling of accounts. Innsj Alehouses^ 8fc. — There are 28 houses or shops in the pa- rish licensed to sell ardent spirits and ales ; and the fact cannot be denied that they have a most pernicious effect upon the morals of the people. * * About 7000 gaUons of spirits have been returned me, as entered in the excise books, for one jrear alone, the price of which to the consumer must be above L. SdOO, «« sum sufficient to keep all the poor in the parish in most comfortable circumstan- ces,— pay the ministers of religion and the teachers of youth handsomely, besides maiotaining an efficient police. Much of this quailtity may be used as sea-store ; still, however, the qusntity consumed ashore must be very great ; and vice and mi* AYR. O 210 AYRSHIRE. FueL — Coal, conveyed in carts or by the railway, from the neigh- bouring parishes of Stevenston and Kilwinning, is the only fuel used throughout the parish. Jtdy 1837. PARISH OF DALRY. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR, THE REV. THOMAS JOHNSTONE, MINISTER. • I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of the parish appears to have been indiscriminately written Dalryj Dalray^ and Dalrye. The mo- dern name is Dairy. It is evidently derived from the Gaelic *' Dailj^' a plain or valley, and " Miyhj^* a king, signifying " King*8 plaiii^ or " Kin^s valley^^ — a considerable portion of the parish being in the valley of Grarnock. In ancient times, it is believed that not only the district of Carrick, but also a part of Cunning- hame, was comprehended in the province or lordship of Galloway. A part, however, was under the royal jurisdiction, and bore die designation of the King's District^ hence the name of Kin^a Val^ ley was derived. A field, on part of which the village is built, still bears the name of Croftangry^ doubtless a corruption of Crofianrighj or croft of the King. Extent — Boundaries. — The parish extends in length, from north to south, 10 miles, and varies from 3 to 8 miles in breadth from east to west, and contains 29 square miles. It is bounded on the east by the parish of Beith ; on the south and south-west, by the parishes of Kilwinning and Ardrossan ; on the west and north- west, by the parishes of West Kilbride and Largs ; and on the north and north-east, by the parish of Kilbirnie. llie figure of the parish is very irregular, being narrowest at the middle. A stripe of hilly ground juts out from its northern side, about 3 miles in length, by 1 to 2 in breadth. A portion of the parish at this sery, the necessary conseqaence of indulgence, are not wanting to attest the fearful extent of this most baneful and demoralizing habit. * The following Account was drawn up by Mr Thomas Hogg, Junior, TofU-Mill, Dairy. DALRY. 211 extremity, containing about 1500 acres, is nearly dissevered from the rest by the parish of Largs. Topographical Appearances, — The principal feature of the pa- rish is a beautiful and fertile valley, which stretches through its middle and breadth, and varies from half a mile to a mile in width. Its elevation does not exceed 90 feet above the sea. The river Garnock flows through the valley in a winding course, and di- vides the parish into two divisions. On the west, the ground rises gradually from the valley, till it terminates on a ridge of hills on the north-west boundary of the parish. These hills, com- mencing at the coast at Largs, run in a south-east direction, in two parallel ranges for several miles. The eastern, which com- prises the hilly stripe formerly mentioned, bends to the east, and joins the Kiibimie hills. Its highest elevation is about 1200 feet above the sea. The western range, on its entrance into this parish, bends to the south-west, and terminates at the extremity of the parish. Baidland Hill, its highest point, is 946 feet above the sea. A small ridge of hilly ground runs to the south of this, the highest eminence of which, Caerwinning Hill, is 634 feet in height. Cave, — On the estate of Blair, in the romantic and beautifully wooded glen of the Dusk, there is a natural cave in a precipitous bank of limestone. It is about 40 feet above the bed of the stream, and is covered by about 30 feet of rock and earth. It has two entrances. The western or main entrance is situated below a vast overhanging rock, 30 feet long by 27 in breadth, the brow of which is covered by the mountain-ash, hazel, and two large plane trees, which give it a picturesque appearance. Its interior resembles Gothic arched work. Part of the roof is supported by two massy columns. Its length is about 183 feet, and breadth from 5 to 12. Near the middle, it expands into a spacious chamber, 85 feet long by 12 broad, and 12 high. Its internal surface is covered by cal- careous incrustations, and numerous crevices branch off from its sides. In former times, popular belief peopled it with elves. It consequently acquired the name of Elf-House. In later days, during the tyrannical reign of Charles II., it afforded a hiding-place to the Covenanters of this parish from the violence of their infu- riated persecutors. Climate. — The prevailing winds are from the W. and S. W., from which point it blows for nearly three-fourths of the year. These winds are sometimes strong and violent During a few 212 . AYRSHIRE. weeks in spring, a cold withering easterly wind prevails, which, being often accompanied by frost, proves very detrimental to vegetation. From its proximity to the Atlantic, the climate is moist, — the rains are frequent, heavy, and long-continued^ sometimes lasting for se- veral weeks with little intermission, especially during the months of September and October. The most prevalent diseases as con- nected with the climate are consun^ption and rheumatism. The parish is, however, healthy, there being commonly about twenty persons alive above eighty years of age. Hydrography. — There are a considerable number of springs in the parish, but none of them are remarkable for the quantity of water they discharge. The most important is at Loans Bridge, a chalybeate spring. A strong mineral spring, near Maulside, has long been noted for its salutary effects in scorbutic disorders. The valley of the Gamock appears to have been, at a remote period, a lake stretching from Dairy to Johnstone,, in Renfrewshire, and of which the lochs of Kilbirnie and Castle Semple are the remains. In corroboration of this supposition, trees have been found im- bedded in the soil, which were apparently deposited by the ac- tion of water. The river Garnock, which has its source in the parish of Kilbirnie, on the confines of the county with Renfrew- shire, flows through this parish for seven miles, four of which are in a south-west direction. Below the manse it makes a sudden bend to the south, in which direction it flows for the remainder of its course to the sea, into which it falls at Irvine. It flows through a fertile plain, over a bed of gravel. Its declivity in this parisb does not average above eight feet per mile, and in some places its motion is hardly perceptible. Its average breadth is about twenty yards. In its course through this parish it receives a number of tributary streams, the chief of which are the Rye and Caaf. The former stream rises in the parish of Largs, and flows through an open moorish country, till about three miles above its junction with the Garnock. It then enters a deep romantic glen, the banks of which are beautifully wooded, in which it rushes impetuously for two miles. It then enters the plain of Gamock, and joins that river after a course of nine miles. The Caaf has its source on the boundaries of Kilbride and Largs. On its descending from the moorish country, a dike of basaltic rock crosses its course, through which it has scooped a narrow passage, in which it rushes with inconceivable velocity. Its banks are almost destitute of wood till near its junction with the Gamock, when it enters a deep DALRY. 213 and rocky dell, and rushes through among immense blocks of free- stone, and over a succession of rapids, till it is precipitated over a considerable fall, forming a fine cascade, about 24 feet in height by 20 in width. Two large rocks rise upon each side of the cas- cade, while the adjacent banks are clothed with wood. Geology and Mineralogy. — The strata on the east of the Gar- nock incline to the south, and partly to the east. Sandstone, lime- stone, and secondary trap greatly shattered, are the prevailing rocks. A field of limestone crosses the parish, south of the Dusk. North of this, a'dike of trap rock stretches from near Blair House to the boundaries'of Beith parish. Betwixt this and the Garnock is the coal formation ; the intervening strata are sandstone, limestone, shale, and indurated clay. The coal lies at a depth of 12 to 30 fathoms. The seam is about 5 feet in thickness, and dips to the south 1 foot in 7. Various " steps^* cross and derange the strata ; one of these raises the coal twelve fathoms, and an- other 8 fathoms. Various dikes of shale or " ^i7/," as it is provin- cially termed, also cross the strata. A dike of trap crosses the Barkip coal-field, in a direction from north-east to south-west. It is about 18 feet in thickness, and, for about the same distance on each side of the dike, the coal was completely charred. On the west of the Garnock two seams of coal are found. Dikes cross the strata chiefly south and north, and are formed of porphyry. Lime- stone is most abundant on this side of the parish. A field of lime- stone traverses its whole breadth, and is supposed to stretch from Ardrossan to Johnstone. The strata are less uniform than to the east of Garnock. The hills are composed of claystone porphyry, felspar porphyry, greenstone, wacke, and basalt. In the upper course of the Caaf, old red sandstone is abundant Jasper is found among the porphyry rocks, and ribbon jasper is very abun- dant Homstone is found in the channel of the Caaf, in a bed of about 10 inches thick, resting on a species of limestone. Agates have been found in the water of Rye. Carbonate of lime is found imbedded in the greenstone trap rocks of Rye. Ironstone is found in . various parts of the parish. Bands of ironstone are found in the roofs of the coal pits at Swinridgemuir.* Near the summit of Baidland Hill, at a height of 800 feet above the sea, a vein or dike of cannel coal is found betwixt two walls of carboniferous * A Taluable field of ironstone hat been discovered since the Account was sent to press, on the estate of Blair, containing several seams, varying from two feet to six inches in thickness. 214 AYRSHIRE. sandstone, the prevailing rock in the neighbourhod being porphyry. It runs in a direction from north-west to south-east, and is about 6 feet in depth and 4 to 5 in width at the top. It is very in- flammable, and emits a strong sulphureous smell on being burned* The greater part of the limestone quarries abound in petrifac- tions. At Auchenskeigh these are numerous. Sea sand and small shells similar to those found on the sea shore are found in the incumbent earth. In sinking a coal mine recently at Swin- ridgemuir, great quantities of small shells were discovered in the indurated clay. Vegetable petrifactions are numerous in the free- stone quarries there, and in the freestone rocks small cavities are found filled with moss earth. Trees, chiefly oak, birch, and hazel, are found in all the mosses, generally lying in a direction from south-west to north-east Se- veral years ago, some persons in digging peats on the Barkip Moss, discovered hairs adhering to the peats. On excavating the moss the body of a cow was laid bare, with a rope formed of " shewSj** or the refuse of dressed lint, twisted about the horns. On being exposed to the atmosphere, the hair melted into a greasy substance, and the carcase speedily dissolved. Soil. — On the east of the Garnock, the soil is chiefly a thin, cold, tenacious clay, retentive of moisture. There is a portion of loamy soil along the banks of the Garnock. There is also a con- siderable extent of moss mostly under cultivation. In the holm lands thje soil is a deep alluvial loam. In some places, ten feet deep of soil has been found. On the west of the Garnock, there is a considerable extent of adhesive clay soil. Along the base of the hills, the soil, being incumbent on limestone or trap, is generally light and dry. Although immense quantities of boulders have been removed from the soil within these twenty years, there are still great numbers unmolested, especially on the north side of the parish. Zoology. — The moor grounds abound with grouse, &c Snipes frequent the marshy places. Herons are almost daily to be seen in search of fish in the Garnock. The kingfisher is also occa- sionally observed. Trout are found in all the streams. The Dusk has long been famed for the abundance and excellence of its trouts. These fish are every year becoming less abundant Bands of per- sons in spring and summer, when the waters of Rye, Caaf, and other streams are low, sweep every pool with small meshed nets, and, not content with this, destroy the fish with quicklime, — a ne- DALRY. 2 Id &rious practice, which threatens to exterminate the whole fish in these waters. Salmon ascend the Garnock, but, owing to the shallowness of the water in summer, and the existence of a stake or bag-net fishery at the mouth of the river, few fish are to be found till near close-time. The salmon ascend to spawn in No- vember and December, and return in January and February. Great numbers are destroyed during the spawning season by poachers principally from Kilbirnie. From the heavy floods in winter, the spawning beds are greatly injured, and immense quantities of the spawn are destroyed by the carting away of gravel from the river during the spawning season. Botany* — From the extent and diversity of soils in the parish, it affords a wide field for botanical research. In the glens of Rye, Caaf, and Dusk, many uncommon and' rare plants are to be found, although the botany of the parish has not been sufficiently inves- tigated. The Hypericum JndroscBmum is found in the glen of Rye, along with the Campanula latifoliay and the Epilobium angusti" folium in abundance on the trap rocks, also the Viburnum Opulus or guelder-rose, and the Paris quadrifolia. The beautiful VeUa annua or cres&-rocket, grows in profusion along the banks of the Grarnock. A little above the junction of that river with the Caaf, the Senecio saracenicus is found. The beautiful blue Geranium pratense grows abundantly by the road sides. In addition to the common blue hyacinth, which adorns every wood and glen, a white variety is also to be met with. The elegant Narcissus Pseudo^ narcissus are found in the woody banks of the Dusk. A remark- ably beautiful species of the Rosa canina, or double dog-rose, grows plentifully on the road side from Dairy to Kilwinning by Blair. A beautiful species of double meadow ranunculus is found in the meadows above the Rye. Among other plants are the following : — Hypericum puhhrum^ H, humijusum^ Epilobium parviflorumj Bidens tripartita^ Rubus saxatilisy R, suberectus^ Lythrum salicaria^ Ajuga reptans^ Epipactis latifolia^ Trifolium medium^ Spircea salicifolia^ Circea lutetiana. Lychnis flos^Cuculi alba, Zanichellia palustrisj Barbarea vulgaris^ Geranium sylvati- cum, TussilagopetasiteSf Luzula maximoj Scirpus sylvaticusy Salix pentcmdra, Digitalis purpurea^ AgrimoniaEupaioriaj Nuphar lutea. White, red, and blue varieties oi\\iQ Poly gala vulgaris are abundant in the heathy grounds, as also a white variety of heath. Among the fungi are noticed, Boletus luteus, Amanita muscarioj and among the ferns Blechnum boreale. Among the cryptogamous plants 216 AYRSHIRE. may be enumerated Bryum turbinatutnj B. liffuhtum, B, hamum^ Jungermannia asplenoides^ J. bideutatOj Hookeria lucens* Plantations* — A great extent of land has been planted within these forty years, principally by Colonel Blair of Blair. Theirees chiefly planted are the oak, ash, beech, elm, plane, chestnut, horse-chestnut, willow, silver, and spruce firs, and larch. The greater part of the Blair plantations have been formed on steep rocky banks, which in their natural state were of little value. Although the trees in these plantations have generally thriven ad« mirably, those with a northern, show a decided superiority over those with a southern exposure. The latter are more liable to be affected by the droughts of summer, and are more apt to become stinted in their growth ; while the wood is less firm in its texture, and not so durable as that which has a northern exposure. Ex- tensive plantations have been formed on moss-land by J. Smith, Esq. of Swinridgemuir, and A. Mitchell Esq. of Maulside ; espe- cially the latter gentleman, who has, by judicious planting, grieat- ly improved as well as beautified a portion of the parish, hitherto very bleak. The trees are healthy and thriving on this soil, and by no means inferior to any plantation in the neighbourhood. Al- though much has been effected in planting within these forty years, much still remains to be done. This is particularly the case in regard to the north and north-west sides of the parish. lAirge Trees. — In the vicinity of Blair House, there is growing a fine Spanish chestnut tree, believed to be among the largest of the kind in Scotland. It rises with a beautiful stem for upwards of 20 feet. Its girth at the ground is 16 feet 6 inches. Three feet above the ground it is 13 feet 3 inches, and diminishes little to the first branch. It has a fine head of foliage ; although having formerly been nearly surrounded by other trees, its branches have not had full liberty to expand. It is growing on a sloping bank, having a north-west exposure. Its age is unknown. There are also some large plane-trees ; the laigest measures in circumference 18 feet 1 inch; the first branch is 11 feet in girth. In the poli- cies are many beautiful specimens of evergreens, probably not ex- celled in Ayrshire. Afany of the Portugal laurels exceed SO feet in height. There are also some remarkably beautiful rhododen- drons, one of which covers a space of ground nearly 60 feet in cir- cumference ; and when in full flower nothing can exceed its splendid appearance. DALRY. 217 IL — Civil History. Accounts of the ParWi, — The only history of the parish hitherto published is to be found in Robertson's Topographical Account of Cuninghame. Colonel Blair, of Blair, has plans of every farm on his property, and a map of the whole estate. Many other proprie- tors have plans of their property. A map of the parish was pub- lished in 1827 by Mr Robert Aitken, land-surveyor, Beith. Witchcraft. — This parish was the scene of one of those revolting acts which disgrace the annals of Scotland, of condemning per- sons to the flames for the imputed crimes of sorcery and witch- craft. This case, which is allowed to be the most extraordinary on record, occurred in 1576. Elizabeth or Bessie Dunlop, spouse of Andrew Jack in Linn,* was arraigned before the High Court of Justiciary, accused of sorcery, witchcraft, &c. Her own con- fession appears to have formed the principal evidence against her, and this was doubtless procured by torture. The substance of it was as follows : That one day when driving her cows to pas- ture, being greatly grieved by reason of affliction in her family, a person appeared to her who described himself as one Thome Reid, officer to the laird of Blair, who had died at Pinkie, and who in- formed her of what would take place in her family. Thome visit- ed her frequently after this, by whose aid she commenced the practice of a wise woman, curing diseases, and assisting in the re- covery of stolen goods. Her profession appears to have prospered until she drew the evil eye of the law upon her, when, having been apprehended and imprisoned in the jail of Irvine, and subsequent- ly tried at Edinbui^h, she was condemned to be ^' worriecC* at the stake, before being consumed by the flames. The intervention of Thome Reid, as a partner in guilt, did not avail the unfortunate woman, neither did the fact operate in her £sivour, that her skill was never directed to iniquitous or hurtful ends. It is rather sin- gular that no tradition exists of this tragical occurrence in the neighbourhood.f Emineni Characters. — Among the patriots who resisted the usurpation of Edward L, Sir Bryce Blair stands distinguished. This parish has the high honour of being*the birth place of this distinguished individual. Under pretence of holding a Justice- * Liun or Lynne, originally the property of an ancient family of the name of Lynne^ is believed to be the locality of the well known poem in Percie's Reliques of Ancient Poetry, •* The Heir of Lynne." t The trial of Bessie Dunlop is deUiled in " Pitcairn*s Criminal Trials," and Sit Walter Scctt has embodied it in his treatise on ** Demonology and Witchcraft.*' 218 AYRSHIRE. « aire, he was invited to Ayr, and there treacherously slain by the English in 1296, along with many other of the Ayrshire barons, among whom was the uncle of Sir William Wallace. Wallace did not fail amply to retaliate, by burning the English garrison at Ayr. Captain Thomas Crawford, the captor of Dumbarton Castle in the reign of the unfortunate Mary, resided in this parish, having married the daughter and heiress of Ker of Kersland. His eldest son succeeded to the estate of Kersland, whose grandson, Robert Ker of Kersland, distinguished himself during the reign of Charles II. Being a zealous Covenanter, and deeming the form of Episcopacy forced by a profligate monarch on a re- luctant nation, to be the prelude to Popery, he did not hesi- tate to join himself to that devoted band, who, in defence of their liberty and their faith, ^^ loved not their lives unto the death." Having been concerned in a meeting at ChitterJUt^ now Skutterflatj near Beith, along with a number of the western gentlemen, he was accused of rebellion, — and being tried in his absence, his life was forfeited, his estate confiscated, and himself compelled to fly into Holland. Subsequently returning, he was apprehended and im- prisoned for many years. The prison, however, took fire, and, mak- ing his escape, he again returned to HoHand, where he died in 1680. At the Revolution his estate was restored to his family. * It came into the possession of John Crawford of Fergushill, who married his daughter, and assumed the name of Ker. This indi- vidual, by his political tergiversations, acquired considerable cele- brity during the reigns of Queen Anne, and Greorge L His me- moirs of these transactions are well known. Sir Robert Cunningham, of Auchenharvie, was a native of this parish. Having studied medicine, he soon became eminent in his profession, and was appointed physician to Charles II. for Scot- land. He accompanied Charles into England, and was of great ser- vice at the battle of Worcester. Having been taken prisoner, he was committed to the Tower ; but in regard of his high talents, * His sword, inkhorn, and a small jar belonging to him are still preserved. Hie svord is a real Andrew Ferrara, and wants the sheath. Tlie inkhorn is a small cir- cular horn tube, about five inches in length, having a small bulb at one extremity for containing the ink. The slender part is hollow, and contains a receptacle for the pens. The jar is rather a curious article. These relics, at the seizure of the effects at Kers- land, were taken by a servant of the &mily, who bequeathed them to his nephew, the late Hugh Brown, piper, Dairy, a worthy who, had he lived in the days of Habbie Simpson, would have proved a formidable rival to the far-famed piper of Kilbarchan. Brown left them to Mr Andrew Crawford, Courthill, Dairy, in whose possessioD they now remain. 3 DALRY. 219 he was after a short imprisonment liberated by the Protector. After the restoration, he was reinstated in his office, and created a baronet of Nova Scotia« Chief Land'Otoners, — Colonel Blair of Blair is the largest pro- prietor, being possessed of nearly a third of the parish. The Earl of Glasgow ranks next in order. The following heritors have also considerable properties within the parish : John Smith, Esq. Swinridgemuir ; Ebenezer Smith, Esq. Pitcon; William Millar, Esq. of Monkcastle, Windyedge, &c. ; Miss Morris of Craig, Auldmuir; Lady Mary Montgomerie, Munoch: William Patrick, Esq. W. S. Barkip ; J. Crichton, Linn, &c. The total number of proprietors is 90. Parochial Registers, — The]earliest existing registers are of births and marriages, and commence in 1683, but have not been regu- larly kept till 1724; from which period they are complete till the present time. The records of the transactions of the kirk-session commence in 1693, and, excepting a blank from 1701 to 1717, have been most accurately kept to 1765. From that time to the incumbency of the present minister in 1821, it appears that the minutes of session were written on detached slips of paper, and, as might be expected from such a slovenly practice, they have all been lost Antiquities. — On the summit of Caerwinning hill are the re- mains of an ancient fortification. It appears to have been formed of three concentric circles or walls of stone, inclosing a space of two acres. The greater part of the materials of which it was com- posed have been removed to build fences, &c. The outer wall cannot now be easily traced, but, from what remains, it appears to have been from 10 to 12 feet in thickness. The entrance has. been on the western side. The vestiges of a fosse or ditch are still visible at the foot of the hill. It must have been a place of great strength, and commands a view of the surrounding country for many miles. The stones must have been brought from a considera- ble distance, being a species of tufiaceous trap, while the hill it- self is composed of felspar porphyry. It is believed that the Scot- tish army were encamped in this fortification previous to the bat- tle of Largs. The ruins of aji andient square fort formerly stood on the banks of the Rye, on the brink of a precipitous rock call- ed the Aitnach Craig. About forty years ago they were wholly removed. In the vicinity of the town is an ancient mound called the 220 AYRSHIRE. CourthilL It is of a conical form, and is covered with the finest verdure. These mounds appear to have been the places for dis- pensing justice. A stone, which tradition asserts to have support- ed the gallows, formerly stood a little east of the moat A few years ago an attempt was made to level this interesting monument of antiquity, in order to fill up some hollows in the field where it is situated, but the hill proving to have been formed of rubbish, the design was abandoned, not, however, till its appearance was greatly disfigured. Various tumuli have been discovered in this parish. In forming the road to Auchinmede a stone cofiin was discovered containing human bones. A cairn was removed on the lands of Camphill, on the formation of the Largs road, which con- tained human bones, probably of some warrior who fell at the bat- tle of Largs. On the lands of Linn, where the ruins of a Romish chapel lately stood, four urns were found containing burnt human bones. At Auchingree two similar urns were also discovered. About ten years ago, an urn was discovered near Blair House, containing burnt bones, and ashes apparently of coal. A part of the jawbone wasunconsumed, which, with the remains of the urn, is in the possession of the gardener at Blair. A sword was found a few years since in the vicinity of Dairy. The blade fell to pieces on being removed ; the handle is of brass iff two hollow pieces soldered together, and is ornamented with the figure of a dragon. It is now in the possession of Mr Andrew Crawford, Courthill, who has likewise one of those ancient spinning instruments, the ^* rock," which was in the possession of the fiunily of Hugh Brown, piper, since 1498, till within these few years, when its present owner acquired it - There is in the parish church an old oak seat, which was ori- ginally the &mily pew of the Boyds of Pitcon, now extinct It has the arms of the fimiily, with the initials R. B., and the date 1634, carved on the back, and is in excellent preservation. Modem Buildings. — An elegant mansion has been built at Swinridgemuir by Mr Smith, the stones being procured from the quarry on his own estate. — Mr Mitchell of Maulside has erected a commodious house on his property. — An excellent inn has been built in the village within the last two years, with a large hall at« tached. — A gas work was erected in 1833. The building mate- rials are chiefly procured from Swinridgemuir and Highfield quar- ries. DALRY» 221 III. — Population. The population in 17&8> according to Dr Webster's return, was 1498 1793, Statistical Account, - - 2000 1801, Parliamentary census, - - 2321 1811, .... . 2816 1821, .... . 3313 1831, males, 1833— females, 1906, - 3739 1836, December, males, 1907— fenmles, 1934, 3841 The small iDcrease of the population since 1831 may be ac- counted for partly by the ravages of cholera, and also from the small number of houses that have been built of late years. Many families have been obliged to leave the parish in consequence of their inability to procure houses* Number of persons residing in the town, ... 1934 in the villages of Linn and Drakemire, 126 in the country, - - . 1781 9941 Yearly average of births for the last seven years. Established Church, . 71 United Secession, - . 16 Original Burghers, about . 7 Others, ... 15 "l09 It is believed that this is nearly correct. Every child baptised in the Established Church must be registered previously. There are only two instances in the last seven years of persons not be- longing to the Established Church registering the births of their children. A register is kept by the United Secession congrega- tion, but, owing to the neglect of parents in registering their child- ren, its accuracy cannot be depended on. The average number of marriages is 32. It has been impossible to ascertain the num- ber of deaths, no register being kept Number of persons under 15 vears of age is 1382 between 15 and 30, 1168 30 and 50, 752 50 and 70, 413 70 and 80, 107 80 and upwards, 19 sm The number of families of independent fortune in the parish is 6 proprietors of land of L. 50 and upwards, 58 Electors in the parish. Old freeholders, of whom 5 are proprietors or sons of proprietors, 18 Proprietors of land, - - - . 40 of houses, - - - - 55 - Tenants of land, . ... - 53 Unmarried men upwards of 50 years of age— batchelors, - ^^ 1 81 166 88 widowers, • 48 222 AYRSHIRE. Unmuried women upwards of 45^ spinsten, . , . 4] widows, - - . 99 140 Number of families, ...... 760 The number of persons under fifteen years of age, divided by the families who have children, will give three children to each family. Number of inhabited bouses, 51 4 uninhabited or building, 5 Ltcmguage. — Within the last forty years the language has con- siderably improved. The English has greatly superseded the Scottish dialect of that period* Many words that were in common use at that time would now be utterly unintelligible to the majo- rity of the existing generation. Customs — Amusements. — The ancient custom of ^^ creeling" is still in existence in this parish. In former days, when penny- weddings were in vogue, it was customary for the parties who were at the wedding to assemble the following day, in order to " creeF* the bridegroom. Having procured a creel or wicker bas- ket, they tied it on the back of the young gudeman, and placed a long pole with a broom affixed to the top, over his left shoulder. Thus equipped he was forced to run a race, followed by theyoimg gudewife with a knife to cut the cords, and who, according to the alacritv with ^hich she endeavoured to unloose the creel, showed her satisfaction at the marriage. After which the parties return* ed to the house to consume the fragments of the preceding day's feast. About forty or fifty years ago, weddings having become less numerously attended than formerly, the custom underwent considerable alteration, and was deferred to new-year's-day. Ac- cordingly, on this morning the young men of the village assemble provided with a wicker hamper, or crockery crate, filled with stones, with which they visit the houses of all those who may have enter- ed the bands of matrimony during the preceding year, and compel each young gudeman to bear the ^^ creel" to his nearest neighbour who may have qualified himself for the honour. Resistance is ge- nerally useless, as a number of stout fellows soon compel the re- fractory person to submit, with the addition probably of one of their number in the " creel," as the reward of his obduracy. The ** creeling" is generally, however, conducted throughout with the greatest good humour ; yet, harmless as the custom is, individuals have been known, who, in order to avoid the ceremony, have re- gularly for fifteen years absented themselves from home for a fortnight at that season. DALRY. 223 The custom of the " baal-fire" or " Tanner is still observed on the last of July, St Margaret's Day. For some weeks previous, the boys perambulate the parish with large horns, soliciting contribu- tions for the purchase of coals for the bonfire. Formerly, it was customary to have a piper, and dance a reel round the tannel, but this has fallen into desuetude. These bonfires are believed to have originated in the baal-fires of the Scandinavians, and to have been adopted, along with other Pagan ceremonies, by the Romish clergy, and transferred to the anniversary of some tutelar saint, — no doubt with the view of reconciling the people to Christianity, by incor- porating with it the observances of their ancient superstition. The game of kyles* is a very popular amusement in this parish. Curling is a favourite game ; but, from the mildness of the winters for many years, an opportunity rarely occurs of enjoying it. Habits of the People^ Sfc. — The people are generally cleanly in their habits. Within the last fifteen years, a great change has taken place on the dress of the people. On Sabbaths they appear in a style little if any thing inferior to that of the inhabitants in thd same rank of life of Edinburgh or Glasgow. The ancient checked plaid still maintains its place in the ordinary dress of females. It is formed of red and blue or green checks, and worn over the head and shoulders, hanging down in front. With some few exceptions, the farmers and proprietors commonly take their principal meals along with their servants, who receive the same treatment as their own families, — and in no part of the country are iarm-servants more uniformly better treated than in this parish. The ordinary food of the country people is for break- fast oatmeal porridge, made with whey, bread, cheese and milk, — in winter, pork-bam is given instead of cheese. For dinner, broth, beef, potatoes, bread, cheese and milk, with variations of pork or * The kyles or keels are nine wooden pins turned out of ash, about a foot in length, and two inches in diameter at bottom, tapering towards the top. One of these is rather thicker and two inches longer than the rest, and is denominated the king. The kjles are placed upright, about nine inches distant from each other, in three lines, the king in the centre, forming a parallelogram, with the angle towards the player, who stands about thirty yards distant, aiid aims a wooden ball about nine inches diameter at the kyles. Whether he overturns them or not he is entitled to another throw from the place to which the ball has rolled. The great difliculty in playing the game, and in which the most skill is requisite, is to throw down the exact number which com- pletes the game ; for instance should forty be the game, and one party stood thirty- five, if the person whose turn it might be to play overturned six kyles, the party oould be ** debuished ;*' that is, they resume their former position in the game, while the ** debuisher** would play the stroke over again. The king counts no more should it be overturned along with the others than a common kyle ; but should it be struck down without overturning any other kyle, a rare achievement, it is deemed equivalent to proatrating them al]« 224 AYRSHIRE. fish. Porridge generally for supper, or potatoes pared, boiled, and mashed with butter. Scones made from a mixture of oats, pease, or beans, with wheat or barley, ground fine^ and denominated ^^ mashlutn!* are in general use, and form a wholesome and pala- table food. Although the greater part of the manufacturing population have for some years had to contend with low wages, and often a scanty supply of work, provisions have been low, and articles of clothing cheap, — and the majority of the members of families being engaged in some employment, with industry, temperate habits, and frugal management, the working classes have been enabled to enjoy a reap sonable share of the comforts of society. The great body of the people may be said to be contented in their circumstances. The people are in general of an intellectual character. The majority of them are moral in their habits, and strictly attentive to their reli- gious duties. Poaching. — A number of years ago, the parish was infested by a gang of notorious poachers, persons of idle, drunken, disorderly habits and profligate manners. These, however, have been broken up and dispersed, so that there is not above one or two individuals at present in the parish addicted to this demoralizing pursuit. There is still some salmon poaching,* although it is decreasing. Smuggling and pawnbroking are alike unknown in this parish. During the last three years there were 21 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Males employed in agrioulture) .... d04 manufactures, . . . 300 retail trade and handicraft^ • . .146 Wh . . 5 L. 31,344 10 Although considerable pains have been taken to ascertain the amount of raw produce, by a personal survey of each farm, the result is given with much doubt. Manufactures. — Weaving is the principal manufacture in Dairy. The number of weavers is 500, of whom 61 are females, and 104 are apprentices. They are chiefly employed in silk and harness weaving, for the Paisley and Glasgow manufacturers. In general, the present rate of wages in Dairy would afford the weaver a fair remuneration for his labour, if he were constantly employed. The intelligence and enterprise of the weavers of Dairy prevented them from suffering, what, but for these qualities, they would have done on the depression occasioned to the cotton weaving by the DALRY. 233 introduction of the power*looni. For early directing their atten- tion to the higher descriptions of work, with which the power- looms cannot enter into competition, they thus saved their circum- stances from undergoing that degree of depression which their fel- low operatives endured in many other places. In the former Account it was mentioned, that a company had erected a mill for the spinning of cotton, to which a large addition was in progress of building. Since that time, it has fallen into the possession of one individual, who converted it into a woollen card- ing and spinning-mill. It is driven by a large water-wheel, to which a steam engine has lately been added. Last year it was entirely fitted up with new machinery, for the slobing and spinning of carpet yarn. It gives employment to nine men, four women, and thirty boys and girls. The men receive from 6s. to 12s. per week, the women 4s. to 6s., and the children from 2s. 6d. to 5s. per week. This employment is not unfavourable to health. A large number of the females in the parish are employed in sewing and embroidering for the Glasgow and Paisley markets, usually denominated Ayrshire needle-work. A good sewer may earn Id. each hour at ordinary white work. For a short pe- riod during summer, when embroidery is brisk, Is. 6d. to 2s. per day is occasionally earned at from fourteen to sixteen hours sitting. But this is gained at the probable sacrifice of health. At Auchingree a small manufactory is established for turning wooden plates, ladles, and other culinary utensils, — it is driven by a small steam engine of two horse power. Agricultural Association. — The Ardrossan Farmers' Society comprises this parish within its bounds, the annual cattle exhibit tion and ploughing-match being occasionally held here. The general Ayrshire Agricultural Association has determined to hold their exhibition in Cunninghame, at Dairy, alternately with Kil- marnock. V. — Parochial Economy. T&um. — Dairy, the only town in the parish, is distant five miles S. W. from Beith, sixteen from Paisley, seven N. W. from Irvine, and fourteen from Kilmarnock, where a weekly grain market is held. It is beautifully situated on a considerable eminence on the right bank of the Garnock, betwixt the confluences of Rye and Caaf with that river, and appears to considerable advantage when viewed from the S. E. It owes its origin to the removal of the church to its present site, about 1608. At the beginning of last century there 234 AYRSHIRE. were only six houses of two storeys in the village, the population not exceedinor 100. At the date of the last Statistical Account, the number of persons was 800 ; while at present the population is about 2000. The town consists of five streets, three of which, meeting nearly in its centre, form a small square. It contains a considerable number of well-built houses, and can boast of several excellent shops. There are three haberdashers, eight grocers, four bakers, and four inns, which afTord every accommodation to travellers, besides five public-houses. A gas company was formed, and gas works erected in 1834. Like those of the majority of places which possess no system of police, the streets are generally in a very miry condition. They have lately been lighted with gas, the ex- pense of which has been defrayed by subscription among the in- habitants. The chief employment of the population is weaving for the Glasgow and Paisley manufacturers. Means of Communication, — The parish enjoys ample means of communication. There is a daily "post, and a stage-coach from Saltcoats to Glasgow, which passes every morning, and returns in the evening. Two carriers travel twice a week to Paisley and Glas- gow, while intercourse is maintained almost daily with the sur- rounding towns and villages, by the bread-carts which leave Dai- ry. The turnpike roads extend 22 miles in length ; and the |)arish roads 26 J miles. There are five toll-bars in the pa- rish. The rates are moderate, — 2d. being charged for a cart, and Id. for a horse, with the exception of the bar on the Largs road, the charge at which trebles that of the other tolls. The roads in general are in good order, though many of them are steep and ill- directed. About eighty years ago, there was nothing deserving the name of a road in the parish, the intercourse being chiefly carried on on horseback, or on cars destitute of wheels. The roads were consequently mere horse-paths, and, from the boggy nature of the low grounds, the more hilly paths were preferred. As intercourse increased, these gradually underwent repair, until they assumed their present appearance. Wherever practicable, the acclivities have been cut, or new roads formed to avoid them. Bridges. — The Garnock is crossed by two stone bridges, one of two, and another of three arches. Both of these were origi- nally steep and narrow, but at the formation of the new road to Beith the steepness was remedied, although they still continue as narrow as ever. A new bridge has been erected over the Rye, and another over the Caaf ; both of them sin^ifle arched. From 4 DALRY. 235 the great number of streams, bridges are numerous, and are gene- rally in good condition, unless where the ledges have been wanton- ly thrown down ; a practice disgraceful, though not peculiar to this parish. Eccksiastical State. — There were originally two churches in the parish. It appears from inscriptions on stones built into the pre- sent church, that these were united, and a church erected in its present site about the commencement of the seventeenth century. The church is distant six miles from the northern, and three and a-half from the eastern and southern boundaries of the parish; and is as conveniently situated for the greater part of the population, as the figure of the parish will admit It is a plain edifice, and was erected in 1771, and received extensive internal repair in 1821, cast-iron pillars having been introduced to support the galleries and roof in place of the former wooden ones. It cannot, however, be pronounced in a sufficient condition, the walls being rent and forced outwards, while the roof has bent inwards. It affords ac- commodation for 870 persons, but, by placing pews along, and seats across the passages, 60 additional sittings have been obtained. Upwards of a third of the sittings belong to Colonel Blair of Blair, though, what is peculiar, none of his tenants have any right, to oc- cupy them, owing to the refusal of their predecessors to aid in cart- ing materials at their own expense for the building of the church. The seats are annually let by public roup to the highest bidder. At the erection of the church, the proprietors of Pitcon and Kers- land estates having agreed to give the materials of their aisles in the old church to aid in the erection of the new one, were allow- ed a proportionate number of sittings, amounting to about sixty each. The proprietors or occupiers of the soil have no right, however, to these sittings ; those of Kersland now belonging to the proprietor of the feudal superiorities, while the Pitcon sittings have fallen into the hands of heritors, who let them in behalf of the poor. The remainder of the sittings are occupied by the heritors and their tenants, with the exception of the table or communion seats. It was the original intention that the table-seats should be free, but the scarcity of accommodation has compelled the letting of these also, and the proceeds are applied to the use of the poor. There are now no seats properly set apart for the accommodation of the poor. The population having doubled since the erection of the present church, the accommodation which it affords has be- come utterly inadequate to meet the wants of the people. Every 236 AYRSHIRE. seat is let, and, owing to the unavoidable competition, the rent of many of them has been trebled within these few years ; and mfeny &milies unable to procute seats have been compelled either to ab- sent themselves from the public worship of God, or to take sittings in the dissenting chapels. Owing to the peculiar manner in which many 6f the sittings were acquired, and the mode of letting others, every attempt hitherto made to procure the enlargement of the present church, or the erection of a new one, has proved unsuc- cessful. We are far, however, from despairing, that the acknow- ledged deficiency in church accommodation, no less than the in- sufficient, if not dangerous, condition of the building itself, will, in due time, induce the heritors to erect another, not only with in- creased accommodation, and better adapted for the comfort of the parishioners, but also in a style more in unison with the wealth of the parish, and more in accordance with the taste of the age, than the present structure. The principal benefactions on record are, in 1810, L. 50 by Mr Service of Holms-of-Caaf ; in 1811, L. 40 by Mrs Hunt of Ash - grove; in 1812, L.252, 10s. by Mr John Aitken, farmer, Kirk- bank, parish of Johnstone, Dumfries-shire; in 1829, Mrs Ferguson of Irvine, daughter of Mr Service, bequeathed L. 50 to the poor, which was partly expended on oatmeal during a period of severe depression in trade. The manse was built in 1766, and has undergone extensive re- pairs at various periods, although it is sjtill a damp and indifferent building. The yearly value of the glebe, which extends to 8 im- perial acres, is L. 24. The stipend • for some years has averaged about L. 220, with L. 10 for communion elements. There are two dissenting chapels in the town ; the one attached to the United Secession, and the other to the Original Burghers. The minister of the former has L. 113, and the latter L. 80 of stipend. The income in both is derived from church collections and seat rents ; and in failure of these, from contributions levied on the congrega- tion. The United Secession congregation had a manse for their late pastor, which was sold at his death, with a view to clear off* part of the chapel debts. The number of families belonging to the Established Church is 500 ; the number of persons above twelve years of age, who attend public worship is 1722, and of communi- cants 1020. There have b;.*cn only two augir.entatioiis of stipend since the year 16)0. DALRY. T61 t Above 1 2 yearn of age attending Indivt. Public Worship. Sit, Let. Unlet. 540 889' 508 306 202 234 152 352 176 176 55 81 Place of worship at Kilbirnie, 77 31 Beitk, 16 1-2 Kilwinning, 2 2 Saltcoats, 3 1 Irvine. Belonging to the Fam. United Secession, 122 Original Burghers, 45 Reformed Presbyterians, 11- Relief, - 13 Original Seceders, - 6 Baptists, - Roman Catholics, No Episcopalians in the parish. Divine service is well attended in the parish church, it being in* conveniently over-crowded, except on some stormy days in winter, when the country people cannot attend. There are no societies for religious purposes in the parish. The average yearly collec- tion for the Sabbath Schools amounts to L. 7, 10s. The only other extraordinary collections of late years have been for the As- sembly's India Mission, L. 9, and for building a Gaelic chapel at Ardrossan, L. 8^ ds. £rft£c/7ft*a7i.— Besides the parochial, there are two private schools in the town ; and one in the country part of the parish. The usual branches of instruction taught : in addition to English, writ- ing and arithmetic, are book-keeping, geography, Latin, Greek, French, and mathematics. Those taught in the private schools are the same as in the parochial, with the exception of the three last branches. The schoolmaster's salary is L. 30, 13s., with L. 2, 2s. 9d. for deficiency of garden ground. He receives, besides, L. 5 for acting as clerk to the heritors, and as kirk-treasurer. Taking into account his perquisites as session* clerk, his salary will average L. 40 annually. This, together with the school fees, which will fully exceed L. 50 yearly, would give a fair remuneration to the teacher. The school, however, for a number of years, has been taught by an as- sistant, who receives the fees, while the principal enjoys the salary. The expense of education is, for English Is. per month ; if writing and arithmetic be included. Is. 2d. per month ; and when most of the other branches are taught, the expense is from Ids. to L. 1, 4s. per annum. It is believed that there are few of the young between six and fifteen years of age who cannot write, and none of the same age who caAnot read. There are probably not half a dozen above fifteen who cannot read ; but there are a considerable number above that age who cannot write. That the people are fully alive to the benefits of education is evident from the fact, that, at the date of the last Statistical Account, the number of children at school was 90, or one scholar to every twenty-two persons ; while at pre- • or these 22 at (en J at Beith. 238 AYRSHIRE. sent there are 390, or one in ten, independent of those at evening schools during the winter months, and at Sabbath schools. Gra* tifying as this increase is, it is still far short of what it ought to be. Many families, containing from five to eight children under fifteen years of age, keep only one child at school, while others have none at all. The children are sent to school at an earlier age than for- merly, but in the majority of cases the time during which they are allowed to remain is very limited. Owing to the depressed circum- stances of many of the manufacturing population, they are not only unable to defray the expense of instruction for their children during any length of time, but, from the same cause, are compelled to put them out to work at an early age, and consequently before their education can have advanced much beyond the mere preli- minary stages. Both the parochial and the private schools are far too confined for the health and comfort of the scholars. One of the private schools, originally a weaver's shop, 17 feet in length, by K)^ wide, is attended by no less than 100 children. The populous district of Muirhouse would itself require a school for the numerous chil- dren it contains. Libraries. — There are three public libraries in the parish : 1. The Dairy Library was established in 181 1. The terms are 2s. entry money, 6d. annually, and one penny per week for every two volumes borrowed. The number of members is about 120. It contains nearly 1000 volumes. It has been of great utility in im- proving the minds of the community in Dairy, which has long en- joyed a reputation for superior intelligence among the various vil- lages of Ayrshire. Of late years, however, works of fiction have acquired an undue preponderance in the library; the object of many of the managers being, it is feared, not so much the selec^ tion of books fitted to instruct, as of those which would be read with most avidity, and consequently would tend most to increase the funds of the library. 2. The Dairy Church Library was instituted in August 1834, in connection with the parochial Sabbath school. The scholars of this school are entitled to the privilege of receiving books gratis. It is, besides, open to all parishioners, and to those not parishioners who attend the parish church, on payment of Is. per annum. It contains at present about 600 volumes, all exclusively religious, besides smaller books for the younger scholars, about 300 of whom receive books. The average number of subscribers is 160. DALRY. 239 8. The conf^regation of the United Secession formed a library last year, the terms being Is. per annum to members and seat- holders, and 2s. to those not connected with the congregation. It contains about 170 volumes. It is earnestly hoped that these re- ligious libraries, under the guiding Providence of God, may operate a permanently beneficial efifect on the morals and religious feelings of the people. Friertdly Societies. — There are three friendly societies, having for their object the support of the members during sickness. I. The Old Friendly Society has existed since 1796; it has 93 members, and a stock of L. 142, 5s. 5d., the average expenditure for five years being L. 14. 2. The Permanent Stock Friendly Society was formed in 1820 ; its present stock is L. 205. The expenditure has averaged L. 14, 3s. annually for the last five years ; the members amount to 80. The payment to both of these societies is Is. 6d. quarterly, and the members receive 4s. per week if confined to bed, and 2s. 6d. when not confined, but unable to labour. 3b The most important is the Free Gardener's Friendly Society. It was instituted in May 1820, and contains 334 members, who pay is. 6d quarterly, and receive 6s. per week if bed-fast, and 4s. if not confined. The following is an abstract of the state of the funds, and the expenditure for the last ten years. Amount of Stock— May 1827, L. 427 12 7i Expenditure, L. .3 1 1828, 491 6 34 . 15 12 1829, 566 13 2 29 10 1830, 6()4 13 7 44 14 1831, 631 11 64 . 70 4 1832, 685 n 64 59 10 1833, 748 4 14 . 50 10 1834, 838 11 2 38 14 1835, 939 14 I4 41 10 1836, 1007 2 10 . 53 10 In 1831 the society was constituted agreeably to the act of Par- liament relating to friendly-societies — and the scale of ages recom- mended by the Highland Society adopted. These societies have been of great utility in promoting industrious habits, and indepen- dent principles among the community, their members being in a great measure insured against pauperism .when aflflicted with dis- ease or old age, and unable to labour. Since the formation of these two last societies, the poor funds expenditure has for some years been from L. 50 to L. 60 less than the expenditure previous to their institution, and has, on the whole, greatly decreased. A female friendly society was formed two years ago, but from the 240 AYRSHIIIE. nature of its constitution — persons of sixty years of age being ad- mitted for 3s. of entry money — its advantages, it is feared, cannot be permanent There is no saving's batik at present in the pa- rish ; but it is in contemplation to establish one of these valuable institutions. Poor Funds. — The average number, for seven years, of persons receiving aid from the parochial funds is 31, and of occasional poor 16. The regular poor receive from Is. 6d. to 14s. per month, — only one, a lunatic, is allowed the latter sum. The ave* rage payment to each person annually is L. 2, lis. 6d* The sum expended in occasional assistance is L. 13, 128. 3d. House rents, L. 19, 14s. 9id. Regular poor, L. 79, 16s. lO^d. Total, L. 113, 15s. lOd. Of the sum paid to the regular poor, about L. 12 is given to persons in Paisley, Kilmarnock, and Newcastle, who, having at some time been resident in this parish, applied for parochial aid before they had acquired a settlement in any othen* The funds derived from collections at the church doors average L. 50, lis. l^d. annually. Interest of money, L. 10, Qs. 8d. Rents of church seats, L. 11. Proclamations of banns, and mortcloth money,t L. 8, 2s. 8d. Total, L. 80, 3s. 4id. The deficiency is made up by a voluntary assessment on the heritors of l^d. to 2d. per pound of valued reut. The poor funds being managed with parsimonious economy, it may be conceived that the pittance which the poor receive is barely adequate to sustain life, but, by the be* nevolence of private individuals, their condition is rendered more comfortable. Colonel Blair of Blair usually placed at the dispo* sal of the session L. 10 yearly, which was expended on clothing, blankets, or coals, as appeared most necessary. In the case of aged persons, there is generally a great reluctance discovered to appl^ for parochial aid, many persons refraining from seeking re- lief till utterly destitute ; and in some cases it has bieen necessary for the session almost to compel thefli to accept of assistance. This disposition soon disappears after the parties have been a few weeks on the roll, the object then being to procure as large an allow- * A few years ago, a person, a native of Maybole, came to reside in this parish, in which he remained three years and a few weeks, when he again returned to his na- tive place. After he bad been nearly three years there, he applied to the session of Maybole for parochial aid. They refused his application, and referred him to the parish of Dairy, and the session here were obliged tb maintain him for a number of years* although, with the exception of the time he resided in this parish, he had always lived in his native place. f Some years ago, the heritors, on occasion of purchasing a new mortcloth, raised the dues on each interment to 10s. Tiie consequence has been, that, during the past year, the whole receipt was 25. 6d., although the dues were latterly lowered. DALRY. 241 aoce as possible, and much discontent is manifested should others receive a more liberal allowance than themselves. There is only one person in the parish who solicits public charity by means of begging, and who does not extend his calls beyond the town. Fairs. — There are six fairs held annually ; but none of them are of great importance. The principal fair is held on St Mar- garet's day, the last day of July. About forty years ago, this was one of the most extensive horse fairs in the west of Scotland; but so greatly has it degenerated, that a score of horse and two score of cattle would be reckoned a great fair. Some of the fairs have been established of late years by the publicans, ostensibly for the sale of cattle, lint, &c. but more truly for the disposal of their whisky, which is always a staple commodity at fairs. From the trifling amount of business transacted at these fairs, and the in- ducements they present to dissipation, characterized, too, as they often are, by quarrels and brawls, they ought to be abolished, as nuisances detrimental to the best interests of the community. Innsj ^c — There are four inns and five public-houses in the parish, of which five are in the country part Brides these, four of the grocers retail spirituous liquors. Their effect on the morals of the people is most pernicious. If we except the Largs road, there is no necessity for a single public-house in the country portion of the parish. It is doubtful whether a reduction of their number in the town would be of any benefit, as such a measure might only tend to increase the business of the remainder. One cause of the prevailing intemperance is to be found in the short term of apprenticeships. This seldom exceeds three or at most four years, and boys who are placed at trades at ten or twelve years of age become possessed of more money than discretion, by the time they are fifteen or sixteen ; and in order to sustain a cha- racter for manliness they resort to the public-houses, and there spend what ought to have gone to the support of their families. A temperance society was formed some years ago, and at its for- mation was joined by a large number of members, but these not being able to maintain its principles, have dwindled to a very few, and the society never having been countenanced by the more influ- ential portion of the community, has now only a nominal existence. PueL — Coals are the chief fuel consumed. Peats are used on- ly in the vicinity of the mosses, or in small quantities, by the inha- bitants of the towns to kindle their fires. Coals are sold at the AYR. g 242 AYRSHIRE. pits at ds. the cart load, and laid down in Dairy at f3s. 8d. and 4s. per cart, or 4s. 9d. per ton. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the publication of the former Statistical Account, the po- pulation has nearly doubled, and the rent of the parish has increas- ed from L.6d50 to L. 17,712. A great extent of moss waste land has been brought under cultivation. New roads have been formed, and the old ones greatly improved. Several hundred acres of land have been planted, and are now thriving plantations. Fur* row-draining has been most extensively practised. Improved ferm steadings have been erected, and are still increasing. Improved implements of husbandry have been introduced ; iron ploughs have entirely superseded those of wood ; and the old cumbrous stone cheese-presses have given place to the iron lever press, a portable and neatly constructed article. The Ardrossan canal was destined to have passed through this parish. But having been finished only from Glasgow to John- stone, an act of Parliament was obtained in 1825, to complete the communication from Johnstone to Ardrossan by a rail-road. It has only, however, been carried from Ardrossan to Kilwinning. As it would have passed, had it been completed, for six miles through Dairy, intersecting extensive fields of coal, limestone, and free- stone, it would have proved of essential benefit to the parish. A survey was lately taken of a rail-road from Glasgow to Ayr by Dai- ry, for which the requisite funds have been subscribed. It is pro- bable, therefore, that this parish will ere long enjoy the advantages of this mode of communication. June 1836. PARISH OF WEST KILBRIDE. PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. THOMAS FINDLAY, MINISTER .* L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Kilbride, the ancient as well as present name of this parish, is obviously derived from St Bryde, a virgin of great cele- brity in the Scotch Kalendar, to whom the church was dedicated; and on whose anniversary or festival, on the 1st day of February, a fair, called Brydsday, has immemorially been held at the village or kirk-town. -{• Topographical Appearances and Botrndaries. — The parish of Kilbride, terminating the far projecting coast of Cuningham to the westward, is finely situated on the shores of the Frith of Clyde, where that noble estuary suddenly expands itself immediately be« low the two Cumbrays. Towards the sea, the general appearance is green and fertile, yet much diversified and broken by steep banks and eminences of considerable height ; whilst iAland, the view is closed by a range of dusky moorland hills. In length, it is about 6 miles ; its medium breadth may be about 2^, where broadest, perhaps 3^ miles, extending in all to about 8650 acres Scotch measure,! exclusive of the Island of Little Cumbray. This parish is bounded on the north by the parish of Largs ; on the east and southeast, by those of Dairy and Ardrossan respectively ; south and west, it is washed by the sea ; the general figure being trian^- * This Account has been drawn up by John Fullarton, Esq., an heritor in the pa- rish. f That this fair was originally kept on the first day of the month is confirmed by Pontes Topography of Cuningham, MS. temp. James VI. In latter times the day has been changed to the second Tuesday. Fairs on festival days invariably originat- ed with the clergy, who derived certain emoluments from them ; and they were usually celebrated within the church and its precincts. In this place, the travelling merchants or packmen, even within the present century, continued to exhibit their wares within the church-yard. The general position of parish church es, near the northern boundary of their indoaures, may have had some reference to the purpose of these fiurs. \ Scotch measure is invariably alluded to in this Account. 244 AYRSHIRE. gular. A chain of pretty high hills, gradually declining, however, to, and terminating with its southern limits, runs along its whole inland boundary, occupying, perhaps, fully one-fourth of its super- ficies. This is a continuation of the hilly western part of Ren- frewshire, and intervening parish of Largs. Kame hill, the high- est of the range, here rises nearly 1000 feet above the sea-mark, from which it almost immediately springs. From these again are deflected to the westward several eminences of considerable alti- titude, though cultivated pretty far up ; others stand quite detach- ed, as those of Law, Ardneill, Tarbert, and some lesser heights in the vicinity of the village. Of the arable lands towards the coast, about 2000 acres consist of alluvial formations, but little elevated above the level of the sea, varying friHn a few feet to about 40. Some fissures or openings occur in the rocks near Portincross, as likewise in the Island of Little Cumbray, as after- wards to be noticed. From its peninsula ted figure, this parish has the advantage of an increased line of coast, in all extending to perhaps upwards of seven miles. The shore is low and shelving, consisting of alternate sandy bays and reefs of sandstone, except for about a mile at the pro- montory of Portincross, which is steep and rocky. To the north, the sands of Southanan, lying in a deep and sheltered curvature, extend fully two miles in length, and from which the tide recedes for nearly a mile in the centre. This fine plain, consisting of a soil in some degree adhesive, largely intermixed with shells, it has been supposed, might be embanked and reclaimed for culti- vation ; but the expense of such an undertaking, if at all practi- cable, will probably ever preclude the attempt being made. These sands are frequented by immense flocks of wild fowl, chiefly of the duck tribe, and contain likewise large beds of cockles and mussels, besides other varieties of shell-fish, as the clam, &c. Next south- ward lies the promontory of Portincross, which is terminated by the celebrated precipice called Ardneil Bank, in some old writings ** Goldberrie head." • This majestic wall of rock, rising where highest to perhaps little less than 300 feet perpendicularly, ranges in a straight line along the water's edge, from which it is merely separated by a narrow slip of green land, and extends to about a mile in length. Along the bottom, the precipice is richly fringed * <* Goudberric headi are grate heigh rockea» making a headland» and running in the nudne oooeane."— Pout** Cuningham. 3 WEST RILBBIDE. 245 with natural coppice^ in which the oak, ash, hazel, and hawthorn, are thickly interwoven ; upwards, the glossy ivy is widely spread, whilst gray lichens intermixed with large patches of a bright gold-^ en-colour succeed^ lining the bold front to its outmost verge. Viewed from the plain below, the effect is highly impressive and sublime ; whilst to approach its terrific summit, the vivid descrip- tion by Shakspeare of the cliff of Dover is fiilly realized. The general mass of these stupendous rocks consists of dark-red sandstone, lying horizontally ; but for a considerable space where highest, the sandstone about midway up is surmounted by a beautiful brown por- phyry. This portion, dividing itself into three distinct and deeply separated cliffs of equal height and uniform appearance, has imme- morially obtained the poetical cognomen of the Three Sisters j other- wise three Jeans, perhaqps Nuns? and truly it were not difficult in their stately and solemn austerity to conceive a fanciful resemblance to the veiled sisterhood of superstitious observance. "^ On the south side of this promontory lies Ardneill bay, a beautiful sandy crescent, which affords an agreeable promenade and easy access for bathing to those in search of health or recreation : others similar, though of less extent, succeed in the same direction, and terminate the shore southward. Climate and Diseases. — The prevailing character of the climate in this quarter is moist and cloudy, with south and westerly winds. Generally, however, it is mild and salubrious, and the tempera- ture for the most part pretty equable. This state of the weather may constitute fully one-half of the season ; and under it the in-* habitants are^ perhaps, not less healthful than during the hot and arid periods, which not unfrequently occur in the summer and har- vest months, the transition being often to a considerable degree sudden and excessive. There does not appear to be any very marked peculiarity of disease here. Rheumatism occasionally ap- pears, though certainly not to any great extent; but peripneumony not unfrequently closes the scene with the aged. Fever has not often been marked by any peculiar severity ^diseases of the phthi- sical class are, perhaps, here, as in most parts of the country, great- * According to tradition, diamonds were contained in this part of the procipioc ; and whi«shy it is said, have been seen by fishermen on the sea at night shining like stars in the ftoe of the rock. Symson relates a similar tale of the Midi of Galloway, in his Account of that district. ** Such (says he) as sail by it in a dark night have ob- served a great light, which hath occasioned some to say, that there is a rock of dia- monds tl^re.*' The tradition of the diamond, indeed^ is common in many similar- inaccessible places in oth^r quarters. 246 AYRSHIRE. \y more to be feared. Epilepsy is by no means of frequent occur- rence, and small-pox for a long time past has been but little heard of, — parents happily having long since got over their ** dread of po- pular odium, or their own superstitious opinions." * Hydrography. — No medicinal waters, with the exception of slight chalybeate impregnations, have ever been discovered in this place. Neither are there any lakes or rivers properly so called. The more considerable streamlets are, Gourock, Kilbride, (an- ciently Millbum,) Southannan and Ffiirly bums, which all have their source within or near the eastern limits of the parish, and &11 into the Frith westward. Southannan is distinguished by its pic- turesque cascade and beautiful sylvan banks. Of the others, there is nothing very notable to remark, except that, like the latter, they have all in former times been employed in driving com*mills, as that of Kilbride (the only one) still continues to be used. Excel- lent and copious springs very much abound ; the largest and purest perhaps is that of Dornell-well, on the farm of South Kilruskin. Geology and Mineralogy. — The general basis here consists of coarse sandstone, declining about a foot in twenty to the south- east. The strata which come into view along the sea shore are chiefly brown or reddish ; higher up it becomes clouded with white, whilst the highest of all to the eastward are wholly of the latter colour, a good deal tinged and streaked with ochre of iron. Nu- merous extensive veins of whin rock, both of the basaltic and por- phyritic kinds, intersect it in all directions ; in some parts bulging out into considerable hills, which, of course, are all distinguished by their rounded figures, and beautiful verdure. The brown slate porphyry before alluded to forms the summits of several conside- rable hills, as those of Crosby and others, whilst Kame hill, of still greater altitude, is crowned with dark trap of perhaps 200 feet in thickness. Slight veins of lime appear at Ardneill point, on the shore and other places, but seemingly &r too limited and impure ever to be of any avaiL At the south end of Ardneill bank, is a very remarkable stratmn of puddingstone, the rolled fragments of which, being at places of considerable size, and the cementing me- dium bearing striking marks of fusion. This stratum lies nearly north and south, dipping pretty acutely westward. It rises near- * Only one distinct case of cholera occurred here during the alarming epidemic of 188*2, and it proved fatal. The individual was employed as a carrier to Glasgow, * where he appears to have caught the infection. In lftS5, small-pox reappeared to a considerable extent, and of which two or three persons of middle age have died* WEST KILBRIDE. 247 ly to the summit of the precipice, and in it' is a large opening or fissure, called the ^^ cove," long tenanted by the usual creations of popular fancy, — " fairies and the elfin train," Slight veins of dif- ferent kinds of spar occur, and in the trap formations rock crystals have been found ; but neither coal nor any metallic ore of any value have ever been met with. As stated in the former account, there is a quarry of excellent millstones, situated on Kame hill. These are formed from a stratum of breccia — white sandstone, mi- nutely intermixed with quartz, — which occurs near the. summit of the hill, immediately under the trap formation before alluded to. The number of millstones annually produced is about thirty. They are esteemed of excellent quality, are taken to a great distance at home, and some few are exported. Soil. — Generally, the soil of this parish may be divided into two classes : that which lies on the original formations of the more ele- vated parts, and secondly, that which covers the alluvial plains by the coast side, and in the valley bottoms. Of the first, which may comprehend nearly four-fifths of the whole, a considerable part even within the arable range consists of poor spongy moorish land, thin, cold, and ungenial, incumbent on a coarse tilly and imper- vious foundation. There are nevertheless in this division many portions of very kindly land, of the loamy and calcareous species, chiefly around the bases of the bills and rising grounds. Part of the alluvial division is of a deep dark mould of the finest quality, but still a very large proportion degenerates into a poor hungry corroding gravel, whilst a narrow stripe by the sea side consists of arid burning sand. A considerable extent of moss or peat bogs is interspersed in the moorish parts; and in the valley behind Ard- neill hills, near the coast, there is a fine field of this sort, extend- ing in all to perhaps 150 acres, which has recently been advanta- geously reclaimed and cultivated. Wherever the sandstone formation prevails, the hills are general- ly covered with heath, of which there are several varieties. On those hills, composed of whin rock, and on the dry gravelly soils by the coast side, furze greatly predominates, with a little broom ; whilst the arable fields in these quarters suffer much from what is termed here the runch — Raphanum raphanistrum. Zoology. — From the names of several places, such as Wildcat- road and Catcraigs, the native cat would seem at some time to have been a common inhabitant of this neighbourhood. But the * 248 ATRSHIRK. race is probably now exterminated. On tbe coast« the seal and otter are still pretty numerous ; and tbe badger yet maintains his footing, especially in his stronghold of Ardneill Bank. Hares and the more common species of game are numerous ; and rabbits are thinly sprinkled over many places ; but no quadruped which may strictly be reckoned uncommon possibly exists here. The fidcon or goshawk has immemorially found a suitable retreat for her eyrie in the cliffs of Ardneill Bank* The young can only be obtained by letting a person down over the rodis by means of ropes, which has sometimes been done. Fisheries, — With the exception of a few trout found in the streamlets, fishing here is confined to the sea. Herring are oc- casionally taken in considerable quantities, but are too uncertain to induce any regular pursuit of them. The other species of fish usually found are, cod, whiting, mackerel, lythe and saithe, but except tbe last none of them are often very plentiful. A few lobsters are caught in their season, which are sent to the Glasgow market, chiefly by the steam-boats which pass this way. * Woods and Plantations, — There is a general want of wood in this parish, in great part the consequence of long absenteeism among its proprietors ; and assuredly nothing could equally contri* bute to its improvement, as the liberal and judicious introduction of sylvan embellishments in it In particular, its absence in tbe vicinity of the sea is signally felt, where, of course, utility not less than just taste requires that jt should be supplied with no sparing hand. The many steep banks, ravines, and hill faces, as well as portions of thin and broken- land, which occur everywhere, are situations exceedingly fitting for such purposes. The extent of woods of all sorts does not probably exceed 150 acres, of which about one-third may be natural coppice ; the rest mixed planta- tions of fir and hardwood, mostly of no great age. Unfortunately, * Fishing, on the whole, has not for a4oog time been either extenstye or profit- able here. Its former importance has been very fully and properly alluded to in the first Account. There can be no doubt it was long a main dependence of the people here, and that its declension, as there surmised, may have affected the population. The many little « boat-ports,** all less or more the work of art, still to be observed, clearly indicate Uie fact. Herring appear to have been a common stipulation in the payment of kmd-rent. In the Commissary Records of Glasgow, a tenant in Fairly, at his decease, 1601, is indebted to ** the Lady Fairly, twa hundrith half-hundrith mail herring ;" another in Lar^ owes « the Lady Robertland sax thousand salt her- "ng» PJ^yce of the thousand vj li. to be payit ycirlie betwixt Yuill and Candlmes,** Ac. And in the minutes of the session the following notice, amongst many others illus- trative of this sul^ject, occurs :^June 18, 1718, the session re«>lve that the sacrament " behoved to be before the middle of July because of the herring fishers.** WEST KILBRIDE. 249 'the little which has been planted is generally too much in the back- ground) — a notion having prevailed that trees would not thrive ad- jacent to the sea, which no doubt is in some degree correct, though by no means greatly to be regarded, as some experiments have fully shewn. The hard-wood tribes seem best suited to maritime situations ; and of these the Scotch elm, plane, ash, beech, and oak appear to answer best here. But much depends on the na- ture of the subsoil. For the most part the fir species soon lan- guish on sour or tilly foundations. Every care should be had to preserve the westerly skirts close and compact ; not, however, by too thick planting, a common error. This will best be secured by introducing only the hardiest kinds, cautious thinning, and by allowing each plant to spread to its greatest dimensions, and to retain its branches as low down as possible. Nor should thorough draining and cultivation of the soil, where required, ever be omitted. Some fine old trees still grow at the ruins of Southanan or Un- derbank, though latterly a great deal have been cut down. These were chiefly ash, plane, and Scotch elm ; and part of a row of lime trees yet remain, of exceeding stately growth and beauty. The situation is on a narrow plain by the margin of the sea, under the cover of high and steep banks ; the soil a rich brown loam on sandstone. At the old house of Crosby, there is a plantation of beeches, of perhaps 150 years' growth ; but though of goodly height, the trees are deficient in girth, not having been properly thinned. These occupy a deep and narrow ravine in sandstone. There is likewise some old timber at Hunterston, and formerly there was more, which stands on an open sandy plain close by the sea beach. The trees here are chiefly ash, and said to be of ex- cellent quality. In former times, most of the farm-houses, or totcnsy as they were called, were encircled by venerable ash and plane trees. Some of these still remain to enrich the locality, and mark the site of these immemorial homesteads of the original possessors of the soil ; but very many of the finest have fallen under the reck- less hand of cupidity or Grothic barbarity. Botany. — The following list of the rarer plants found in this pa- rish has been communicated by the Rev. David Landsborough, minister of Stevenston, a gentleman well known for his attainments in this el^ant branch of science. Allium vineale» Crow garlic. Trilblium arvense, HareVfoot trefoil. Triglochin maritimum, Sea arrow-grass Scutellaria galericulata, Com. skull-cap. ■■■- — palustre. Marsh arrow-grass. Melica uniflora, Wood melic grass. Ervum hirsutum, Hairy tare. Vicia sylvattca, Wood vetch. 250 AYRSHIRE. Geranium sanguincum. Bloody crane's Raphanus maritimus, Sea radish. bill. Cotyledon umbilicus, Wall penny-wort. Lavatera arborea, Sea side tree mallow. Triodia decumbens. Decumbent heath Anagallis tenella, Bog pimperneL grass. Lithospermum maritimum, Sea side Sium latifolium, Broad-leaved water pars- gromwelL nip. CEnanthe pimpinelloideSy Parsley water Carum verticillatum, Whorled caraway. dropwort. Circasalutetiana, Enchanter's nightshade. Pirapinella sazifraga, Burnet saxifrage. Scolopendrium officinale. Common hart's Anthriscus vulgaris, Com. anthriscus. tongue. Glauciumluteum, Yellow horned poppy. Hypnum molluscum, Plumy-crested Cakile maritima, Sea rocket. feather-moss. AnthylUs /ulneraria, Lady's finger. Sticta pulmonaria, Lungwort sticta. Hypericum pulchrum, Small upright St Hookeria lucens, Shining Hookeria. John's wort. Campanula latifolia. Broad-leaved bell- ~ androssmum, Tutsan do. flower. — — huroifusum, Trailing do. Droiera rotundifolia, Round-leaved sun- calicinum, Large- flowered do dew. Plnguicula Lusitanica, Pale butter-wort. Coronopus Ruellii, Swine's cress. Arundo phragmites, Common reed. Eryngium maritimum, Sea holly. Ligusticum Scoticum, Lovage. Samolus valerandi, Water pimpernel. Melica caerulea, Purple melic grass. Eupatoriumcanabinum, Hemp-agrimony Solidago virgaurca, Golden red. Daucus carota, Wild carrot. Schcenus nigricans, Black bog rush. IL — Clvil History. Kilbride appears originally to have been a dependency of the monastery of Kilwinning, and the cure to have been served by a vicar, — the monks drawing the rectorial tithes. Since the dissolu- tion of the Catholic establishment, its boundaries have been alter- ed, and probably enlarged. About the year 1650, the extensive properties of Southanan and Crosby were disjoined from Largs, and annexed qtioad omnia to Kilbride ; on the other hand, thB lands of Monfode, Knockewart, and Boydston, were separated from it, and adjoined to the parish of Ardrossan on the south, the two first quoad omniay the last only quoad sacra* This neighbourhood, with some probability, is said to have been the scene of conflicts consequent on the Norwegian descent at Largs in 1263 ; and doubtless it w&s exposed to much previous strife with these fierce northern marauders. At the hill of Grold- berry, before alluded to, tradition asserts, that a detachment of the army of Haco was attacked and routed by a body of Scotch- men, led by Sir Robert Boyd, who is said to have been the pro- genitor of the family of Kilmarnock, and for these services to have received a grant of some lands in Cuningham« From the time of this afiair, which seems finally to have terminated these long pro- tracted incursions of this restless people, the western shores ever after enjoyed perhaps a greater degree of quiet than that of almost any other district of the country. They continued, howeverj to WEST KILBRIDE. 251 contribute to the common defence of the kingdom. The family of Kilmarnock, which from about this era rose to be among the most considerable of the barons of the west, was mainly advanced by the services of Sir Robert Boyd in the cause of Bruce : Besides ex- tensive grants of land elsewhere, he obtained from that monarch the estates of Kilbride and Ardneill, in this parish, and which were long held by his descendants. - In the unhappy carnage of Pinkie in 1547, the west country appears to have had but too considerable a share. From Kil- bride, the lairds of Hunterston and Monfode fell in the fray. Again at the field of Langside, from their wide dependence on the Lord Boyd, great numbers from this quarter were pre- sent on the side of the Queen. Robert Boyd of Portincross, and his eldest son, Archibald, with a great many others of their name, afterwards obtained remissions for their appearance on that ocfeasion. Nothing, however, appears to shew that this parish can claim any distinguished place amongst those ^^ patriotic bands," who so greatly exalted the name of Scotchmen, by the noble stand they made in the cause of civil and religious liberty during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, though it is hardly to be doubted, many individuals, however lowly in place, must have shared in that fervour of spirit which shone so conspicuously throughout the west during that memorable period of the national history. As before noticed, the family of Kilmarnock had much influence here ; and the part which that family ever acted in pub- lic affairs, if we except the services of their founder in the cause of Bruce, was not certainly such as in any way to entitle them to the respect or sympathy of their countrymen. The whole of the church lands here, which were considerable, were unequally shar- ed betwixt Alexander, the ^^ good" Earl of Glencaim, and Lord Boyd. * Of the unfortunate smuggling traffic which ensued on the union of this country with England, the inhabitants of this parish were unhappily long and deeply participant. Many traces of this de- moralizing pursuit may still be found in the records of its session, * The following ohancteristic anecdote, relative to this parish, is preserved in Crawfurd's Genealogical Collections in the Advocates' Library. ** Mr George Craw- furd, a son of Thirdport, was minister at Kilbryde. He was deposed in the strick times of the Covenant for wardlv raindedness and selling a horse on the Sabbath day, as old Portincross ( Robert Boyd of Portincross, * who dyed very aged, near 100 years of age, in \721.*-^Ibidem.) told me, who knew him minister at Kilbryd^ and was a witness against him at the presbytery.** 252 AYRSHIRE. and of which a few ^)eciineDs, for the gralificatioo of the curious, are here subjoined.* Eminent Men. — As a talented scholar, the most eminent person connected with this parish was Dr Robert Simson of Glasgow, the well-known translator of Euclid. Dr Simson's progenitors had been long resident here, and at a pretty early period acquired some lands near the village, to which they gave the name of Kirk- tonhall, and to which in succession the Doctor himself succeeded. In the garden of this residence of his predecessor^ there still re- mains a curious sun-dial, understood to have been designed by this eminent mathematician ; it is inscribed with his father's and mo- ther's initials, and the date 1717. Yet it would seem doubtful after all if Dr Simson was born at this place. His father, John Simson of Kirktonhall, was bred a merchant in Glasgow, and en* tered as a member of the merchant's house there in 1683 ; and in about two years afterwards, married Agnes, daughter of the Rev. Patrick Simson, minister of Renfrew. Of this union, which produced the remarkable issue of seventeen sons without any daughters, the Doctor was the eldest, being bom October 14, 1687. He was educated at the university of Glasgow, under the care of his maternal uncle, the Rev. John Simson, Professor of Divinity there.f In 1711, he was appointed to the mathematical chair of his alma mater, it being tendered to him without any solicitation on his part ; and in this situation, he continued for the long space of fifty-eight years, ^^ with increasing reputation to himself, and great advantage to the university/' He published many woiks on his favourite science which he professed, and in these has left ^^ a monument of great genius and intellectual ability." Having nearly completed his eighty*first year, this distinguish- * Feb. 3, 1720.— This day, the session was informed that some person was seen lately, carrying off brandy upon Sabbath morning, &c. <• Oct. 2S; 1721.— This day, compered William King, and was examined about bak. ing bread in his house upon the Lord's day. He did not deny but that it might be done, but neither he nor his wife knew anything of it. He told that there was a great confusion about his house that day, with souldiers and euitom-houae offioeia, who came up to take brandy on that day, &c. " June 17, 1772.— This day the session was informed of Robert Mrn^e5 built close by the ruins of the ancient mansion. 2. Crosby, adjoining Southanan, comprehends a pretty exten- sive portion of hill land, lying along the east side of the parish, and abounds in moor game. This property belongs to John Crawfurd of Auchnames, whose ancestor acquired it from his connections, the original family, of the same name and designation, about the beginning of last century. There is a small mansion- house on it, erected* near the end of the seventeenth century, which was long ruinous, but is now being restored in good taste by the proprietor. Crosby was an ancient inheritance of the Crawfurds of Lowdon, sheriifs of Ayr, and there seems great probability that it was at the original " Tower of Crosby" that the hero of Scot- land, Wallace, found refuge with his uncle. Sir Ronald Craw- furd, during his outlawry by the English authorities.* This inci- dent, it is true, has often been assigned to Crosby in Kyle, but, there seems great reason to think, erroneously. Crosby in Cunning- ham is uniformly contradistinguished from the other as ^^ Crosby- Crawfurd" in all early writings; and the intelligent Chalmers, speaking of Crosby in Kyle, distinctly states it to have ^^ belong- ed to the family of FuUarton in the twelfth century, and probably from an earlier age." 3. Kilbride, which, as before-observed, along with Ardneill, was conferred by the renowned Bruce on the ancestor of the Earls of Kilmarnock.. There are still remaining here the walls of a very stately tower, called Lawcastle, quite entire. It is beautifully si- tuated on a step, an eminence overlooking the village, and com- mands delightAil prospects of the islands and frith to the west- ward. In 1670, William, third Earl of ICilmarnock, alienated this estate, along with the lands of Drummilling and Boydston to a Major Hugh Bontine, who, it is said, acquired his fortune in the service of the Commonwealth. From his heirs, the Baillies of Monkton, the whole was judicially sold in 1759, with the ex- * Pont thus alludes to the Tower of Crosby : — *^ Crosbj toure is the habitutlone of William Craufurd of Auchnaims, by divers thought to be cbeiffe of the Crau* furds. He holds the same of the Earls of Glencairne. This surname is very an- cient, and did memorable service under King Alexander the 3d, at the batell of Lar- gis, by quhome their good service wes recompensed with divers great lands and po^ ^essiones. According to the old common ritbme, They had Draffen, Mcthweine, and rich crth St^vinstone ; Cameltoune, Knockawart, and fiur I«owdoune.** WEST KILBRIDE. 255 ception of some small portions previously alienated in a variety of lots, as it still remains.* 5. Carlung and Drummilling both church lands. Carlung, which is a ten pund land, and very valuable, belonged to the col* legiate kirk of Kilmawrs, and at the Reformation fell to the share of Alexander Earl of Glencairn ; the other, of far inferior extent and value, which probably belonged to the monastery of Kilwin* ning, was given to Lord Boyd, a man of very opposite sentiments to those of the '^ good'' Earl ; but something conciliatory, no doubt, then, as now, was necessary to be observed in matters of state policy. Both properties lie in the immediate vicinity of the village, and have long since been alienated and parcelled out Carlung, which was for several generations the seat of a cadet of the family of Glen- cairn, is now separated into four distinct properties, Carlung, Wood- side, Kirktonhall, and Overtoun. 6. Ardneill or Portincross. From the ancient fortalice of Portincross, the chief messuage of this estate, the proprietors ap- pear invariably to have been designed. About the time of Robert IL Ardneill became the patrimony of a third son of the Boyd fa- mily, and it continued with his descendants, the Boyds of Portin- cross, to the year 1737, when it was alienated to the ancestor of the present proprietor, John Crawfurd of Auchnames, who has a neat cottage residence close by the old castle. The castle of Por- tincross, the walls of which are yet pretty entire, though long ruin- ous, is perhaps the most ancient structure of the kind now remain- ing in this place. It stands on a ledge of rock projecting into the sea under the bold promontory to which it gives name, a singular- ly wild and romantic situation. Several royal charters of the two first Stewart Kings bear to have received the sign-manual at ^^ Ar- nele,'' which unquestionably refers to this fortlet, and which has led to a notion, that Portincross had been at that period a royal residence of the Kings of Scotland. But there seems no evidence whatever to conclude it ever was such in the proper sense of the * One of the original purchasers, a Mr Alexander Fairy, who had acquired a di- vision of rather indifferent land, which he named Springside, soon after began a re- gular system of improvement on it, enclosing, draining, and plantings which he very successfully completed ; and was one of the earliest improvers here. Mr Boyd of Car- lung, who had spent his early life at New York, in North America, was contemporary with Mr Fairy, and equally energetic in enclosing and improving his lands, which on his succession he found in the most barbarous condition. There had been consi- derably earlier attempts of this nature on the estates of Crosby and Ardneill ; but these had not been followed up, and by this time were wholly neglected, the lands having been turned into grazings. Springside is now the property of Mr John Blair Hynd- mau, whose style of improvements is hardly equal to that of hii spirited predecessor. 256 AYRSHIRE. term. The probability is, that these sovereigns, in passing to and from Dundonald in Kyle, and Rothesay in Bute, had been in use to cross the channel at this point, and may occasionally, as cir- cumstances or inclinations suggested, have prolonged their stay a little at this convenient station. Contemplating the narrow walls of this sea-beat tower, it is certainly difficult to conceive it should ever have afforded accommodation to the prestige* of a royal court ; yet when we reflect on the circumscribed nature of even Dundon- ald itself, the fsivourite residence of these same sovereigns, the contrast by no means appears so very extraordinary. * 7. The last of these *^ baronies" is the estate of Hunterston, the property of Mrs Hunter of Hunterston ; and* which is the only portion of the parish which has remained unalienated from ancient times. Crawfurd, the author of the Peerage, states, that this family have had '^ at least a part of the estate they still pos- sess as fair back as the reign of King Alexander IL'' However this may be, it is clear that this family are very ancient possessors here ; for from the records of the Great Seal it appears, that Wil- liam Hunter of Hunterston obtained a confirmation of the lands of Campbelton, part of Ardneill adjoining, so early as the time of Robert IL, and which lands still remain in the family* The (mti- ginal mansion-house of Hunterston, part of which consists of a square tower, evidently of ancient construction, though of very li- mited dimensions, is still kept habitable, being occupied as a farm- house ; a handsome new mansion having been erected by the pro« . prietor about thirty years ago, a little way nearer the sea* The old fordet occupied originally a narrow tongue of land jutting into a deep morass, which of course constituted its security from ex- ternal aggression. But whilst modem improvements have turned the bogs into fruitful fields, the little ^^ lonely tower" has thus been reft of its characteristic defence. Many little patches have from time to time been added to this olden dwelling, and which, being closely environed by aged trees, has altogether a very antique and picturesque appearance. The whole of these properties, with the exception of Kilbride and Carlung, which have been parcelled out as before noticed, are now, it is iinderstood, under the fetters of strict entails, all of com- paratively recent date. For notwithstanding the pernicious effects * In an inventory of the effects within the fortaliee of Portincroes* taken in 1021« h appears inter alia to have contained ** ten fedder beddis,'* with their ftimlshings, whiah is 80 far illustrative of the manners of those times ; for it is clear two or three of these must have belonged to each chamber. WEST KILBRIDE. 257 of such restrictions, as well to the possessors themselves, as to the public interest, the owners of property still cling with an undimi- nished fondness to this no less injurious than absurd and prepos- terous practice in the disposal of their lands. Difficulties of no ordinary kind undoubtedly have ever stood in the way of undoing the past ; but that government could not be said to discharge its proper and bounden duty, which, when such erroneous policy came to manifest itself through its consequences, did not instantly put a stop to its further baneful operations. So long as this barbarous remnant of the spirit of feudalism is suffered to exist, it is obvious, all future ameliorations of the soil must be circumscribed to an incalculable extent Parochial RegUters. — ^The registers of this parish commence pretty early, are very complete, and in good preservation ; cer- tainly much more so than is usually the case with such documents. The register of births begins November 6, 1691, and is regularly continued to the present time. It is to be noted, however, of this record, that at no time has the law been uniformly complied with, many births never having been entered at all; which of course very much lessens its value to the community. The registry of mar^ riages is continued from 1693, and is preserved entire. Minutes of the kirk-session commence February 15, 1716, and now occupy nearly two thick quarto volumes. Money accounts in reference to the poor are preserved from 1730 to the present time ; and minutes of the meetings of heritors separately since 1795. Antiquities^ — Some traces of remote times still exist here. Along the steep banks fiicing the sea-beach are placed a chain of little round eminences called ^^ Castle hills," supposed to be the remains of a very primitive class of fortlets. They stand at un- equal distances, apparently as suitableness of fituation offered — some scarcely half a mile, others a mile and a half apart. In par- ticular, they occur at Boydston, Glenhead, Seamill, and Ardneill. They are all constructed in the same manner, and are of very li- mited dimensions. A portion of the bank is detached on all sides and rounded conically ; the enclosure on the summit, of about 30 or 40 feet in diameter, is surrounded by a rampart from 6 to S feet in thickness, faced on both sides with large undressed stones neatly laid, the interstice being filled up with small stones intermixed with earth. That at Ardneill stands on a finely isolated eminence called Auldhill, and in front of the enclosure or praeto* rium, there is an esplanade of 40 or 60 paces in length, very ex- AYR. R 258 AYRSHIRE. actly formed a)id levelled Something similar exists at Seamill, but the rest are conSned to the circular rampart alone. Conjec- ture assigns these structures to the era of the Danish incursions, which seems not improbable ; but they may belong to a still higher antiquity.* Tumuli have likewise been accidentally explored here, in which were found urns containing calcined human bones and ashes. Near the Castlehill, at Seamill, about four years ago, whilst the new line of the coast road was being executed, two entire urns of this sort were dug out in a stratum of gravel, about three feet below the surface, but without the addition of any mound being raised over them. One of these, it is believed, has since been deposited in Anderson's Institution in Glasgow. These urns were formed of coarse red clay, of very rude manufacture, yet well proportioned and modelled in the vase form. In harden- ing, the 6re appears to have been applied solely to the inside of the urn, that part being changed to a dark colour, whilst the out- side remains of the natural red. A short time ago, a splendid an- tique siver brooch, of large size, richly ornamented with filigree work, and bearing a Runic inscription^ was found near Hunter- ston ; a description with drawings of which, it is said, is in prepara- tion for the Transactions of the Society of Scottish Antiquaries. One of the large ships of the celebrated Spanish armada of 1588, afler the dispersion of that formidable fleet, having found her way into the Firth of Clyde, ultimately perished close by the castle of Portincross. ^^ She sunk in about ten fiithom water, at no great distance from the shore," on a clean firm sandy bottom. Tradition afiirms that part of the crew were saved, and it seems not improbable that most of them might get to land. In De Foe's Tour, Vol. iv. ed. 1779, there is an interesting account of an at* tempt to recover property out of this vessel, by means of a diving machine, in the year 1740. A good many brass and iron ordnance were obtained firom the .wreck, which were all carried off except one of iron, which still lies on the beach beside the old castle ; and on which may still be fidntly traced the Spanish crown and arms near the breech of the piece.f * A few yean ago, an opening being made in the ground outside of the rampart at Seamill, a considerable quantity of charcoal of wd, bones of cattle and deers* horns, some of which appearing to have bt«n town asunder^ were found a few feet below the surfece, the materials of the wall having fellen down oyer the place. t In the legends of the place, the sinking of this ship is ascribed to the spells of a noted witch of the neighbourhood, Geils Buchanan, who, mounting the brow of the promontory and twirling her spindle, with the lengthening thread the hapless royagers sunk down. WEST KILBRIDE. 259 III. — Population. , That the population of this parish at a former period experien- ced a very remarkable decrease, there can be no manner of doubt. The following particulars relative to this head have been as- certained with much care and accuracy by Mr Smith, our pre- sent excellent parochial teacher ; and they certainly afford a cu- rious and interesting view of the subject From the register of births, it appears that, from 1692 to 1718, inclusive, a period of twenty-seven years, the annual average number of births was 42 ; for five years subsequent to IdOl, the population being 795, these registrations average 19f ; and during five years preceding 1831, population 1684^ the annual average of births was 51 f. So that tak- ing these data and criteria, the average population from 1692 to 1718, must have stood about 1373. According to Dr Webster, tbe population here in 1775 was - 885 in 1793^ as in the former Account, 698 And the progressive Government censuses are as ibUows : 1801 795 1811, 1015 1821, 1371 1831, 1684 Number of inhabitants resident in the village. 1007 in the landward parts, 677 Number of families. 309 &milies employed in agriculture, 112 in trade and manu&ctures, 165 others. 32 Tbe total number of inhabited houses is 217 In 1831, the number of males was 849 females, 835 The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 51^ marriages for the same period, JH deaths. m The average number of persons under 15 years of age, is 692 from 15 to 30 465 SO to 50 319 50to70 152 upwards of 70 56 1684 There are no nobility resident here, nor have there been any such for ages. The number of proprietors of land of above L. 50 of yearly value, is 13 ofunmarried men above 50, - - 32 bachelors, • • - 20 widowers, - - - 12 Unmarried women above 45, via. spinsters, 35, widows 45, 80 The average number of children in each family is about - 44 fatuous persons, - - 8 deaf and dumb, - - - 2 That the intellectual, moral, and religious character of the peo- ple of this parish, in common with that of the whole country, has long been progres^vely and steadily improving, it is pleasing to con* 260 AYRSHIRE. template ; and nothing but the darkest prejudice could lead any one to controvert or deny it That " security," which the inhabitants here were supposed formerly to possess, from their sequestered si- tuation, against ^Uhe encroaching influences of that corruption which other places of more business and resort" were exposed to, was at best but a very equivocal sort of advantage* The union of the two kingdoms found Scotland with the most inadequate means of employment for her population, miserably scanty as it was ; and previous ages of feudal barbarity had sunk the condition of the people to the lowest point of indigence, ignorance, and im- morality. Nor did the union, so indispensable to her improve- ment, at first lead to those ameliorations which have ultimately so copiously flowed from it On the contrary, its first fruits were only to allure the inhabitants of Scotland, altogether ignorant of trade and commerce, and, with no systematic knowledge of agriculture, almost universally to plunge into the demoralizing vortex of smug- gling, which, from the new excise imposts then laid on, seemed to ofier so great a temptation. So generally were all classes, high and low, connected with this outrageous practice, that, for a long time, the recent and ill-consolidated government of the Revolution was utterly unable effectually to repress such disgraceful violations of its authority. For greatly more than half a century subsequent to the union, such was the inauspicious condition of this country ; and there can be no doubt if it did not rather retrograde, it was impossible any material advancement could be made. During the last three years there have been 6 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The extent of land of all qualities occasionally in or fit for cultivation is about 6000 acres ; of waste fit only for pasture, 2650, exclusive of Little Cumbray, and from which neither its situation nor nature admit that the arable may ever be profitably augmented from it, — attempts of this kind having al- ready been pushed to their utmost limits, if not a step beyond them. There is now here no undivided common. The extent of growing wood has before been alluded to. The management of trees is perhaps the worst understood, and least attended to species of culture in this part of the country, and assuredly the parish of Kilbride forms no exception to the general depravity. Beta of Land. — Small patches of land near the village fetch as high as from L. 8 to L. 5 an acre, but the medium rental of the WEST KILBBIDU. 261 whole of the arable parts does not probably exceed L. 1, 10s. — the moorish wastes, perhaps, not 5s. which would make the gross annual rent of land about L. 9662.* The value of produce and cost of labour is much the same all over the district of Cuning- ham ; and, as particulars of these must be communicated from many parishes of greater importance, it seems unnecessary they should be repeated here. The arable pastures are chiefly occu- pied with dairy cows, the produce being almost exclusively cheese of the quality known by the name of Dunlop-cheese. The moors are principally stocked with sheep of the native or black-faced race. The different species of live-stock in 1819 were as follows : horses of all kinds, 162 ; dairy cows, 600 ; rearing and other varieties of cattle, 790; sheep, 2373; swine, 218 ;i* and there is no reason to think that great alteration has taken place since that period. The natural adaptation of this parish, whether with respect to climate, soil, or situation in the great manufacturing district in which it lies, is obviously as to the dairy ; and the practice ac- cordingly becomes more and more accommodated to that species of farming. The soil is far too deficient in calcareous and adhe- sive components to fit it in any degree for continued aration ; and cannot advantageously be subjected to the plough but af);er a con- siderable period of rest. Neither are many of the pastures rich enough for the purpose of feeding stock ; hence the alternative of the dairy, perhaps the most suitable to which it ever can be ap- plied, has wisely been universally adopted. The whole is now pretty completely enclosed and subdivided, the fences being ge- nerally hedge and ditch, but in high and arid situations stone dikes have usually been adopted ; and for about fifi;y years past all the ordinary means of improving the soil have pretty successfully been in practice. Here, as perhaps everywhere else, road-making was the last improvement to make its appearance in the manage- ment of farms, though theoretically it ought to have preceded all others, as, without facility of access, every operation must be done, at a great disadvantage. Consequently much this way remains to be done ; there being scarcely a farm yet sufficiently provided with * The number of arable farms may be about fifty, which makes the medium size about 120 acres, the largest about 300) the smallest 30. For some time back, an in- clination to reduce the size of farms has prevailed, some of the largest having latterly been divided into two, others into three separate possessions ; and, but for the expense of additional buildings it is probable this practice would soon become more generaL The moors are chiefly divided into two sheep-walks, that of Crosby and Southanan. t Topographical Description of Cuninghame, published at Irvine in 1820, by Mr George Robertson, a man well versed in such matters, and whose work will be found to supply a great deal of thb nature. 262 ATR8UIBB. the means of internal communication. Lime is very generally now applied to the soil, and in considerable quantities ; but the distance, (from four to eight miles) and in some cases the badness of the roads, render it a very costly application. Sea-weed is pretty abundant, but the right to it belongs exclusively to lands adjoining to the sea shore, each property, too, being confined to its own boundary. The quickness with which this substance dissolves, re- quires its instant application to the soil or admixture into compost on its being cast ashore; but from the former wretchedness of the roads, and it may be indolence of the elder husbandmen, the prac- Uce has generally been to deposit it near the beach antil it was greatly reduced, often to not a third of its original quantum, that the labour of carting it might be abridged ! More correct ideas of this, however, begin to prevail, and a better course to be followed, all being now satisfied of the great loss sustained by such neglect. The grain crops raised here are, — wheat, oats, barley, and a little rye along the sea^shore, of pulse, beans, pease, and, to a limited extent, tares. The green crops are, potatoes, turnips, and carrots. Though of late years the cultivation of wheat has been carried to an imprudent extent, the quantity sown still bears but a small pro- portion to that of oats, perhaps not more than as one to four. Wheat is very liable to disease and injury here. The climate is too humid, and consequently cold, as the soil is perhaps of too feeble a stamina to admit of this fine grain ever being extensively or profitably cultivated in this neighbourhood. Oats, on the con- trary, thrive exceedingly well, and their straw is superior to all others as fodder for the dairy cows ; yet it is remarked, that an equal luxuriance in the growth of the crop here does not realize an equal return of grain with soils of a more clayish nature, and the seed requires more frequently to be renewed. The barley tribes are likewise pretty congenial to this locality, though for a good while past their cultivation has been very limited. But they will probably soon be more appreciated and attended to, barley being a much easier crop^ and more suitable than any other grain for sowing down for pasture. Beans, especially in the^drill mode, succeed extremely well on even very light land, and are cultivated to a considerable extent ; but peas are of difficult management, albeit for poor dry soils they seem not ill suited, and often produce good returns ; the quantity sown is but trifling. Potatoes are not nearly so well adapted to feeble spongy soils as turnips, — a circum- stance which is every year being made more apparent in the cul- WEST KILBRIDE. 263 ttvatiou of these crops in this place.* Hitiierto potatoes have been far more extensively cultivated than turnips, which are of recent introduction ; but tliis is fast changing in favour of the latter* The Swedish turnip b greatly preferred to all others, and it thrives un« commonly well oo almost all kinds of soil and situations. Carrots have been still more recently introduced ; and, though occasional- ly yielding singularly profitable crops, are not yet sown to any con- siderable breadth. They are of nice and troublesome cultivation^ and withal subject in an uncommon degree to be destroyed by maggots, and otherwise. Mangel-wurzel has but just made its ap«- pearance, and it is not likely successfully to compete with Swe- dish turnip; nevertheless it deserves further trial, as the plant seems to thrive very well on good deep land. Ryegrass is extensively raised here; and it is nearly all ripened for seed, which sells dor from 2s. to ds. a bushel. But this is a practice by no means con- sistent with good farming, the succeeding pastures being greatly deteriorated by its scourging effects, so that nothing but the pres- 43ing necessities of the cultivator can excuse such a course. Flax may be said to have wholly disappeared, scarcely a patch being now to be seen. Leasee. — The usual duration of leases has long been for nine- teen years; but latterly, there seems an inclination on the part of landlords to shorten them, which is certainly a very mistaken view, whether as regards the one party or the other ; the independence and prosperity of the tenant alone can redound to the interest and advantage of the owner of the soil. • Farm-Buildings* — As to farm-buildings, a great many steadings have latterly been reconstructed, and such, for the most part, have been substantially and commodiously built. Others are still very comfortless and unsuitable to the purposes required. The imple- ments of husbandry here are all of the most approved order, the iron plough being general, but single horse carts alone are used. Thrashing-milU have become general, few fanm of any size being without one. Manufacture$. — Besides a tan-work, which employs eight or ten hands, the only branch of manufacture here is that of weaving and * The following incidental notice of the early cultiyation of the potatoe oooura lo the iessional records here :— « Sabbath, October 24» 1725 : This day compeared Bo- bert Miller (and some others) who owned, that about twintae days ago, they were at Corsbie, in time of publick worship, but pretended that they were seeking a horse whicfa had wandered away. It being su|^;ested by some of the members, that they were digging /yofto a considerable portion of which is still unexhausted. There are here no chapels of ease ; but there is a very neat and commodious place of worship belonging to the United Associated Synod, built about fifteen years ago ; and having accommodation for 434 sitters^ though the usual attendance does not probably exceed 150. They are at present without an ordained minister, their late pastor, the Rev. Peter Mather, who was appointed to officiate permanent- ly amongst them, having left them, and joined himself to those de- nominated Independents. Education. — There are in all three schools in this parish ; all situated in the village, but the parochial one alone enjoys any en- dowment. The average number of scholars attending all three 266 AYRSHIRE. for the last five years has been 211 ; in the parish school, day classes 96, night classes 39 ; the other schools have, one 40, the other S6. In the parish school are taught English i^ading and grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, geography, and na- vigation, also the rudiments of Latin, Greek, and French. The other two are confined to English, writing, and arithmetic The school salary is L.27, 17s. 8d., exclusive of the emoluments of session-clerk, which office has always been enjoyed by the parochial teacher. The average fees of teaching are, at the parish school, ds. per quarter; at one of the private schools, 3s., at the other only Is. 6d. The age at which children enter school is usually from five to six years. Scarcely any individual brought up here has not been taught to read and write, and the £ar greater number, in addition, the first rules of arithmetic. The pa- rish school-room, like the church, is quite unsuitable to the pur^ pose for which it is required. * It is contained in the ground-floor of an old house formerly the manse, and, what from the nature of the situation, extreme lowness of the ceiling, and rude inhospitable interior, its ventilation is inconceivably bad, and cannot be but most pernicious to the health and constitutions of its young and ten- der inmates, as well as most uncomfortable to the teachers. The people, it cannot be doubted, are every way sensible of the inestimable blessings of education ; but, for a good many years past, it is to be feared, many of them have been but little able to afford the necessary expense of obtaining it to their luckless offspring. At the age they should enter school, great numbers of children here, as elsewhere, especially in the manufacturing districts, are put to labour in a variety of ways, that they may contribute to their own physical support; and thus, but for the means of Sunday schools, and other expedients, would inevitably be left to grow up without any knowledge of letters whatever ! This parish, however, is exceedingly well provided with teachers, and the abili- ties, diligence, and assiduity of Mr Smith of the parochial school, are above all praise. Nor are the conduct and efficiency of the pri- vate teachers in their sphere at all less deserving of commendation. A parochial subscription library has been established in Kilbride for about seven years, and now consists of upwards of 400 volumes of pretty judiciously selected works in general literature. By this means, a taste for reading is being diffused among the young, which cannot &il of being productive of the most beneficial effects. FHendly SoaV/iV^.— There are three different friendly societies WEST KILBRIDE. 267 established here, one of which was instituted so early as 1796. They are all supported by small entry monies and annual contri- butions. The oldest affords aid to decayed and necessitous mem* bers only ; the other two give support, during inability to labour, without reference to circumstances. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of r^ular pensioners on the poor's fund for the last six years has been 14]^« Average weekly allowance to each Is. 7d. Id all for the year* . L. 69 2 Average ineidcntal expenses in like manner, . . 1113 6 L.70 15 6 Contra average ^ncome from the usual sooroes for same period, SO 13 4 L.20 2 2 This deficit of L. 20, 2s. 2d. for the current and preceding year has been made up by assessment, — a mode to which heritors every where show the greatest reluctance, whatever be the feelings of the poor on the subject; and nothmg but the utmost necessity assuredly will ever force them to the adoption of such an alterna- tive. Nevertheless, it must be remarked, assessment is the only fair and equitable manner of proceeding in such a matter. As to any argument about the feelings of people reduced to the neces* sity of receiving charity, whether it shall thus be justly apportion- ed, or fall exclusively, on the benevolent, such can only be viewed as ingenious sophistry, altogether to evade the unwelcome burden. The scources from which the ordinary funds arise here, are : col- lections at church door ; fees for proclamations of marriage and use of mortcloths; rent of a house, and rent of some pews in the church. Inns. — Of inns or houses for the sale of spirits, &c there are ten licensed within the parish, seemmgly all conducted with order and propriety ; most of them, however, are but on a small scale, and certainly but little necessary to any beneficial purpose. RieL — The ordinary fuel used here is coal, chiefly from Ste- venston, distant about six miles, and a little from Dairy, still far- ther off. Peats are used in the hilly parts. MiSCELLANBOUS OBSERVATIONS. As regards agriculture, the system at present in use here seems in most respects to be exceedingly well suited to the nature of the locality ; but that it is still susceptible of great improvement admits not of a doubt Draining requires to be carried incalcula* biy farther ; and, as before noticed, vast improvement might be ef- 268 AYRSHIRE. fected by the construction of roads for internal access in almost every farm.* The only portion of the parish which seems to re- quire a common drain of any considerable size to be yet made, is the fine plain running along from Hunterston to Ardneill ; by which means, a considerable portion of very manageable land might still be greatly in^proved* But as this would affect different pro- perties, difficulties must attend any arrangements thereto. Great- er facility might yet certainly be obtained in the procuring of lime, by the further improvement of roads, and perhaps by some arrangement for its importation by sea. It need hardly be ob- served, nothing could more immediately tend to encourage im- provement, than a reduction of the cost of an anticle so essential to the proper management of land. In reflecting on the improvements which have been effected since the era of the first Account, there is no change more pleas- ing to contemplate, than that which has taken place in the man- ners and habits of the people themselves. This is especially ob- servable of the rural portion of the community, though certainly great progress has been made in the domestic and personal con- dition of all. At the former period, farm-houses, almost without exception, presented no indications of superior comfort or refine- ment to the ordinary habitations of labourers, differing, indeed, in nothing from such, but in their more ample stores and greater means of rude hospitality. As a criterion, there was not probably at that period a carpeted parlour to be met with in a farm-house within the parish. . Now matters are reversed, very few being with- out that mark of decent comfort ; whilst the general economy of most in every way corresponds with this indication of refinement. But the chief advantage of which this parish probably is sus- ceptible, is as a sea-bathing station and coast residence, though hitherto very little has been attempted towards such an object The sea-shore all the way from the fine harbour of Ardrossan to Portincross northward, a reach of above five miles, is in all re- spects peculiarly suitable for such a purpose. Bordering on the * Our existing road- laws seem much to require alteration and amendment. What is called Statute labour money, is levied most unjustly- as regards all town commu- nities, tbey baWng no control in its expenditure, which is at the sole disposal of a certain class of proprietors of land, and who of course naturally enough direct its ap- plication in a great measure to their own farm-roads. All roads of any considerable thorough&re should probably be constituted turnpike, whilst a general act might be framed, empowering all towns and villages who chose to avail themselves of the pri- vUege, to assess themselves for the maintenance and improvement of their streets. Purely agricultural lines should be wholly made and maintained by the owners of the lands they affect. WE8T KILBRIDE. 269 wide and open channel, with a southern aspect, the beach is finely shelving and accessible ; whilst all along, steep and picturesque banks give complete protection from the north and east. Facility of conveyance alone seems awanting to give to this locality every possible superiority over all places lying higher up in the narrow portions of the Frith, where of course it is impossible but that the marine influence must be greatly less efficacious. This disadvan- tage of intercourse will probably soon be obviated. By the com- pletion of the Ardrossan and^ Glasgow railway, already in part exe- cuted, the most ample means of access will be obtained. The distance in all is little more than thirty miles, and by adopting the locomotive engine, may, with the greatest safety, be accomplished in about an hour and a half, and at a very small expense. The benefit of such an improvement would not be confined to this neighbourhood ; but would in an almost equal degree extend to the opposite coast of Arran, the romantic shores of which, by means of steam-boats from Ardrossan, might then be reached from the city of Glasgow in perhaps less than three hours and a half! Such are the capabilities of improvement which this country every- where presents, tending to the further comfort and convenience of its great population ; and it is impossible to set limits to what may yet be effected under circumstances favourable to the de- velopement of its boundless and varied resources. Island of Little Cumbrat. The Island of Little or Lesser Cumbray lies about midway be- twixt the southern part of the island of Bute and the promontory of Portincross, in this parish, distant from either about two and a half miles. It is, however, attached to the parish of Kilbride only quoad sacra ; civilly and politically, it forms part of the shire of Bute, the juridical seat of which is the burgh of Rothesay. It lies in length nearly north and south, and, according to a parish atlas of Cun- inghame, published at Beith in 1*829, contains 1^ square mile in superficial extent, equal to nearly 700 acres ; wh^re highest, it may be from 500 to 600 feet above the level of the sea. It is the property of the Earl of Eglinton, whose family has long posses- sed it. This island is composed entirely of secondary trap, but which appears to rest on the brown sandstone of the opposite coast, which comes into view along the water's edge at the landing place on the east side, and very probably is continued throughout. 270 AYRSHIRE. The trap is formed into thick strata, very distinctly markedi rising like steps of a stair upwards, declining, however, at a considerable angle from the north. On its summit, near the centre of the is- land, is seated a circular tower of about 30 feet in bdght, the re- mains of a former lighthouse — a very conspicuous land-mark from all points in the channel. The present lighthouse, referred to as building in the former Account, stands on the edge of a precipice, overhanging the sea, on the west side of the island, opposite Bute, and presents, with the keeper's residence and garden on the little plain adjoining, an interesting'and beautiful object, in contrast with the wild crags amidst which it is placed. The caves formerly al- luded to are mere fissures in the rocks. They all occur low down, and near the south end of the island, where the stratification is more distinct and columnar. The largest of them, which is on the east side, is dignified with the name of King's Cave; and, in the tales of the place, is said to communicate, by a submarine passage, with the opposite island of Bute — such have ever been the speculations of credulity and unguided fancy. For a long time past, this rocky islet has been principally occu- pied as a rabbit-warren, — about 450 dozen being taken annually ; but there are besides a few sheep and some young cattle grazed, on iL Cultivation is wholly confined to a few potatoe gardens. The number of families resident on it is four« including the tacks- man's, who rents the whole, and the lighthouse keeper's. In for- mer times, no fewer than eight or ten families are said to have been located here, who all shared in the occupancy of its surface ; but it is evident they must mainly have subsisted by fishing ; yet many traces of cultivation are to be discerned on the scanty soil of the steps of the rocks, where alone any thing could ever have been forced off it. Except a few ash trees near its north east corner, and pret- ty large patches of elder bushes on the opposite shore, the island is wholly destitute of wood. Both of the Cumbrays were undoubtedly included in the do- mains of the Stewart family, ancestors of the Kings of Scotland. On the erection of the principality of Scotland by Robert IIL, in favour of his eldest son, in 1404, the smaller Cumbray was includ- ed in it ; and a century afterwards, it appears to have been kept as a royal preserve of some kind. In the registry of the privy-seal, the following entry occurs : — October 2^ 1515. — Lettre to Hew Erie of Eglintoune, mak- and him and hut assignais, keeparis, oversearis, correkaris, and sup- WEST KILBRIDE. 271 leans of the Me of LitiU Comeray^ the dere, cunyngis, and ^ild bestis being thairin, quhill the Kingis perBte age of xv yere ; be-* cans Robert Huntare of Huntarestoune, forrestar of heritage of the said isle, is nocht of power to resist the personis that waistis the samyn, without suplie and help, &c."* And Mr Donald Monro, in his Description of the Western Isles, 1594, observes, ^* Besides this (the Greater Cumbray,) lyes ane iyle callit Cumbray of the Dais, because there is many Dayis in- till it'' Not a vestige of the deer here alluded to has survived within the memory of the present time, nor does any remembrance of them appear to have been handed down by local tradition. On an islet rock on its east side, near tbe middle of the island, stands an ancient square tower, the walls of which are still nearly entire. It is about 35 feet in height, embattled. The area in- side is 28 feet by 15, the walls being 6 in thickness; and as usual the first story is vaulted over with stone arches. During Crom« well's visit to Scotland, Principal Baillie alludes to his having re- tired to this fortlet for some time, to which the family of Eglinton, his great patrons, appear at that conjuncture to have withdrawn. « ♦ • ♦ Cromwell, with the whole body of his army and can- non, comes peaceably by the way of Kilsyth to Glasgow. The magistrates and ministers fled all away. I got to the Isle of Cum- ray, with my Lady Montgomery, but left all my family and goods to Cromwell's courtesy, which indeed was great ; for he took such a course with his soldiers, that they did less displeasure at Glas- gow than if they had been in London, though Mr Zachary Boyd railed on them all to their £sice in the High Church." — Letters^ Sfc ii. 395. In the former Account it is stated, that this castle " was sur- prised and burned by Cromwell's soldiers," which is by no means improbable, though, perhaps resting only on the authority of oral tradition. Lord Eglinton appearsall through to have been highly ini- mical to the Protector. Monk, for some short time, placed a small garrison in the house of Eglinton itself; and it is stated, that the Castle of Ardrossan, a place of considerable strength, was then thrown down by the same authority. In the burgh records of Glasgow, is registered a curious contract, dated in 1568, in which the following particulars relative to the castle of Cumbray and * The followiDg notice of Uie family of Hunterston occurs in Mr Thomas Crawfurd's HerMrie Collectlont io the Advocates* Library : « Hunter of Hunterston (preefsdu* venatorum regiorutnj in Cuningham,** bears for arms *< vertf 3 hunting horns, Or^ bandred, gule:** 272 AYRSHIRE. others appear: — " Hew Erie of Eglintoun" contracted with *^ George Elphinstoun glssinwricht, burges of Glasgow, that the said George suld uphald and maDtene the places of Ardrossan, Eglintoun, Polnone, Glasgow, and Cumray in glassin wark, as also the place of Irvin ;" and for all which, Elphinstoun was to re- ceive yearly, ^^ twa boUis meill, and ane stane cheis," *^ and gif it • happinis the said Erie to hald house in ony of thir foir-saidis places when it sal happin, the said George to wirk, the said George sail have his meit the time that he wirks, and als when the said George tursis creillis of glas and leid to Irvyn, Ardrossan, Eglintoun, and Cumray, the said Erie sal caus ane carrage hors to turs the samyn out of Glasgow,"* &c The ruins of the chapel and tomb of St Vey, alluded to in the former Account, still remain. They are situated near the top of the hill, a little northward of the castle. The chapel is 33 feet by 15 inside ; the walls, very little of which are now standing, are about three feet in thickness, but the mortar with which tbey have been built seems to have been bad, and very sparingly used. In the tomb, which is at a little distance north of the chapel, are two flat stones, on one of which, now broken in two, are sculptured some ornamental tracery, such as is usually to be seen on those ancient monuments called Danish stones, but no vestige of any inscription is to be observed on any of them. This inclosure, which is of a square form, -and of very limited dimensions, was originally surrounded by a stone wall, but of which only the foundation now exists. There is a tradition, that this chapel, ano- ther at Ardrossan, and a third on the Garrock-head, in Bute, were all served by one and the same priest, who of course, journeyed per vices among them. About twenty years ago, the late Earl of Eglinton caused to be opened some tumuli on the north extremity of this island, called Shanniwilly point ; and in which were found sepulchral urns, and fragments of military weapons, which were all carried off to Eglin- ton Castle. A son and successor of the historian Wodrow, in the parish of Eastwood, spent his latter days in this sequestered island, where he died, and was interred in a tomb, which had some time before been constructed for the sepulture of one of his daughters, who had died here in early life of consumption. This romantic burial- * To this contract <* Maister Patrik Wodrow, vicar of Eglescbeme," ancestor of the historian of the Scotish Church, is a witness. DALRYMPLE. 2/3 place is situated on the brink of a high precipice, overlooking the ocean near the south-west corner of the island ; a spot to which it is said the young lady during her illness had become peculiarly attached, and where before her death, as stated on her tombstone, she requested she might be laid. September 1837. PARISH OF DALRYMPLE. PRESBYTEUY OF AYE, SYNOD OP GLASGOW AND AYR. " THE REV. ROBERT WALLACE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — In charters of the fourteenth century, the name of this parish was written Dalrimpill, which is evidently an abbre- viation of the Celtic, Dail-a^^hruimpuiU, Anglice, Dale of the crooked pool. This etymology literally applies to the situation of the village, where the church of Dalrymple stands, at a bend or turn of the river Doon ; and " this (says an eminent Gaelic scho* lar, who visited this place in 1832,) is exactly what a Highlander, who knew no English, would denominate the valley of DalrympW Extent and Boundaries. — The extent of this parish, from west to east, is 7 miles ; its greatest breadth is 3 miles ; and it contains a surface of about 12 square miles. It is bounded on the north and east, by the parishes of Ayr, Coylton, and Dalmellington ; and on the south and west, by the river Doon, which separates it from the parishes of Straiten, Kirkmichael, and Maybole. Topographical Appearances. — With the exception of the valley^ where the village and church are situated, none of the rest of the parish can be termed level, for the surface abounds with numerous rising grounds, or little round hills, from most of which are seen the Islands of Bute and Arran, the peninsula of Cantyre, Ailsa- Craig, and the ^ lofty Benlomond," which is 44' north from, and on the same meridian line with the British fortlet on Woodland, the most southern eminence of this parish. From Kirkmien, the highest part of the parish, the north of Ireland is distinctly seen in clear weather. Climate and Diseases. — The climate of the parish, and especi* AYR. s 274 AYRSHIRE. ally in the valley, is mild, and considered healthy. In tho course of the last eight years, out of a population of 960 and upwards, only 114 died. Of these, there were under twenty, 48 ; between twenty and forty, 23; forty and sixty, 16 ; sixty and seventy, 10 ; seventy and eighty, 8 ; eighty and ninety, 6 ; upwards of ninety, 3. The diseases of which they died are the following : viz. decay of nature, 24 ; consumption, 20 ; inflammation, 7 ; fever, 9 ; water in the head, 7 ; water in the chest, 4 ; hooping-cough, 5 ; measles, 1 ; croup, 5 ; dysentery, 3 ; dropsy, 2 ; apoplexy, 2 ; cancer, 4 ; small-pox, 1 ; scrofula, 1 ; influenza, 1 ; ulceration of the tongue, 1 ; liver complaint, 2 ; killed, 1 ; unknown, 14. Hydrography ^Springs. — There are several mineral springs ; but, with the exception of one on the estate of Barbieston, they are seldom of ever thought of. With regard to this one, the late Mr Fullarton of Skeldon, formerly one of the heritors of this parish, sent the writer of this Account, the following communication : ^^ I was at first led to notice the mineral spring near Skeldon, in 1798^ when I heard that the late Captain Campbell of Barbieston used it himself, and frequently made his servants drink of it* It is a chalybeate, but not strong ; also, I believe, a gentle cathartic For some years it ran copiously, but the working of marl in the bank above brought down the brae face, and nearly choked the spring, though it has been constantly but gently discharging in that place ever since. I never knew it freeze during the severest frosts I have ever seen, having had frequent opportunities during winter, when shooting through these ^ banks and braes.' I have not analysed it, but I have no doubt, if properly opened and secured (which I once intended to do,) it might prove both useful and medicinally beneficial." Lochs. — There are four lochs in the parish, Martinham, Snipe, Kerse, and Lindston. Martinham is the largest, being about a mile and a-half in length, by a furlong, at an average, in breadth, jand it stretches a considerable way into the parish of Coylton. Its greatest depth is 26 feet. There is a small islet in this loch, and on it, the ruins of a building (probably in former times the man- sion-house of the proprietor of Martinham,) 100 feet in length, by 30 in breadth. The islet is almost entirely covered with wood, and both the wood and the ruins are completely cased in ivy. The scenery, around Martinham is exceedingly picturesque. There are in all the lochs abundance of pike, perch, and eel ; they are frequented too by wild geese and ducks, teal, widgeon, &c. ^ DALRYMPLE. 275 A pike was lately caught in Martinham loch, which weighed 29^ imperial pounds. An ordinary sized pike had first seized the bait and hook, and the large one was taken, by swallowing all three to- gether. The outlet from Martinham Loch is a small burn which flows into the river Doon. River, — The only river in the parish is the Doon, which runs along its south and west sides, and forms the boundary between the districts of Kyle and Carrick. This river flows from Loch Doon, and, after a course of thirty miles, or thereabouts, of various windings, and passing nine gentlemen's seats, viz. Berbeth, Hollybush, Skeldonj Cassillis, Mookwood, Auchendrane, Doonholm, Doonside, Mount Charles ; and three kirks, Dalmellington, Dalrymple, and AUoway,. also the monument erected in 1822, to the memory of Burns, the cottage where he was born, &c., it falls into the Frith of Clyde, near Ayr. Like other rivers issuing from lochs, the Doon is more steady in its course, and does not rise so high, or fall so much away, as the generality of them. It is, however, occasionally sub- ject to floods. About fifty years ago, one of these occurred, which did considerable damage ; and in January 1814, the melting of the snow on the adjacent hills swelled the river to such an extent, that it burst up immense fragments of ice, and forced them forward with irresistible impetuosity, in consequence of which the trees on the banks were bent like willows, — Skeldon wooden bridge was carried away, — the village gardens were under ice and water, and the village houses were inundated from three to four feet above the floors.* The banks of the Doon are in general bold, and well-wooded, and there are many fine haughs on its sides. Fishing. — The stake-nets at the mouth of the river have injured the fishing above very considerably; but notwithstanding these, salmon contrive to get up, and many are taken every year, from ten to twenty pounds in weight Besides salmon, there are also in the river sea and yellow trout, par, eel, and pike. Geology and Minercdogy. — The geological structure of this pa- rish is very distinctly exhibited along the banks of the river Doon, which, as has been already mentioned, bounds it on the south and west. The banks are, in several places, of considerable height, and, by the influence of the weather, the strata, especially at Bore- * A very interesting acoount of this was communioKted to the editor of the Ayr Advertiser, and published at the time, by Mr Campbell of Cumnock, who was then parochial schoolmaster of Dalrymple. Mr Campbell was an «ye- witness of the scene» and kindly received the villagers, who were driven from their houses, into his schoolt and supplied them with every comfort. 276 AYRSHIRE. ^ land, have been exposed ; and in jutting out among the trees and copse-wood, by which they are generally covered, present striking - and picturesque appearances. Here are observed beds of liinestone, old red sandstone, and conglomerate, which dip at an inclination of between twenty and thirty degrees towards the north-east, under the coal Belds of Coylton and Patna ; and these are obviously to be classed under the same series of rocks, which in the neighbour* ing parishes of Maybole and Kirkmichael are surmounted by the coal measures. The limestone is generally found in masses, with clayey matter intervening, and is seldom more than a foot in thick- ness. It is extremely hard, and presents only occasionally the traces of small shells. It has in several places been dug out, and found, after burning, to yield a good lime for agricultural purposes. Trap penetrating the strata, and presenting the usual appearances, is also found in several districts ; and boulders, both of trap and granite, are scattered over the fields. Soils. — The soil is of various kinds. The greatest part, how- ever, is the clay ; the rest consists of gravel, sand, and loam< In some places, the clay soil is very poor and barren, scarcely repay- ^ ing the expense of cultivation ; in others, when properly managed, and sheltered from the wintry winds, by plantations or the adja- cent elevated grounds, it produces excellent crops. The clay soil is in some places red, in others blue, and a bluish-white. The « gravelly and the sandy soils yield the best pasture, and are best adapted for potatoes and turnips. The loam is mostly on the banks of the river, lochs, and rivulets, to which it has evidently been carried down from the higher grounds by the floods in winter. There is very little moss land in the parish. Botany. — The following list of plants of the rarer kind found in this parish, was furnished by Mr Smith of Monkwood Grove, an enthusiastic botanist. The writer has here arranged Mr Smith's list according to the Linnaean system, and accompanied it with an English translation : III. Trianoru. 2. PimpincllR mifrRga, Common burnet 1. ValeriRnR officinalis, Great wild vale< saxifrage. nan. 6. Drosera rotundifolia. Round-leaved 1. Scirpua laeustris, Bulrush. sun-dew. % Aira canescens, Gray hair-grass. ' 2. Briza media, Common quidLing^grass. VI. Hbxamdria. 2. Arundo phragmites, Common reed. I. Allium ursinum, Broad-leaved garlic 1. Nartbecium ossifragum, Lancashire V. PxMTAXDRiA. Rsphodel. 1. Menyanthes trifuliata, Com. buckbean 1. Peplls portula^ Water purslane. 2. Sium verticillatum, Whorled water 5. AUama plantago, Greater water plan- parsnep. tain. DALRYMPLE. 277 Alisma ranunculoides, Small do. VIII. OCTANDUA. 1. Epilobium hirsutum, Great hairy wil- low-herb. -parviflorum, Small-flower- ed do. palustre, Marsh do. Nasturtium terrestre, Annual rocket water cress. XVIII. POLYADELPHIA. 4. Hypericum elodes, Marsh St John's wort XX. Gykakdria. i . Orchis hifolia. Butterfly orchis. ■ mascula. Early purple do. — — ~- latifolia, Mar^ do. .^...-. maculate, Spotted do. XXI. MOKOSCIA. 3. Typha Utifolia, Great reed-mace. 5. Sparganium simplex, Unbranched bur- reed. — ~— — — natans. Floating do. XXII. DiCECiA. Sk Ruscus aculeatus. Common butcher's broom. XXIV. Ckyttogawia. 2. Botrychium^unaria, Com. moon wort. 4. Polypodium phegopteris, Pale moun- tain polypody. dryopteris, Three-branch- ed do. 4. Blcchiium boreale, Northern blechnumt 4. Aspidium dilatatum, Great crested shield fern. 5. Pilularia globulifera, Pepper grass pill- wort. 1. Erica tetralix, Croas- leaved heath. — — cinerea, Fine-leaved do. X. Decamdria. 2. Chrysoplenium alternifolium, Alter- nate-leaved golden saxifrage. — — — — oppositifolium, Oppo. site-leaved do. 3. Stellariabolostea, Greater stitch wort. -— ~^— graminea, Lesser do. XI. DODECANDRIA. 1. Ly thrum salicaria. Purple loose strife. 1 . Agrimonia eupatoria, Com. agrimony. XII. ICOSAXORIA. 1. Prunus padus. Bird-cherry. 5. Geum urbanum. Common avens. — — rivale, Water do. XIII. POLYANDRIA. 1. Nymphaea lutea. Yellow water lily. ^ alba. White do. 7. Trollius Europaeus, Com. globe flower. 7. Caltba palustris. Com. marsh marigold. XV. Tetradynamja. 2. Nasturtium officinale, (*ommon water- cress. Plantations, — The plantations consist of oak, elm, ash, alder, birch, plane, lime, larch, — silver, spruce, and Scotch fir. There are six beautiful oaks in the old garden at Skeldon, sup- posed to be upwards of 300 years old. A native of this parish, who died here about five and twenty years ago, on the verge of a hundred, said, that he remembered no difference in them in the whole course of his life ; and that the aged people in his time spoke of them as being more than 200 years old. Of two which were mea- sured lately, one was 12 feet round, and contained within the branches a circumference of 220 feet ; the other was 10 feet round, and 20 feet' from the root to the branches. Near the oaks are se- veral larches, equal in height and beauty to the generality of those in the Duke of Atholl's plantations at Dunkeld. Half-way beween the church and manse, and in the glebe, are two magnificent and beautiful trees, a sycamore and a horse-chestnut. 11. — Civil History. The barony of Dalrymple was held in former tirne^ by a family, 278 AYRSHIRE. who took from their lands the surname of Dalrymple. In the reign of David 11. 1330-32, the barony was divided into two parts, and pos- sessed by two families of the name of Dalrymple, who were pro- bably derived from a common progenitor. In 1371, John Ken- nedy of Dunure obtained a charter from Robert II. of half the ba- rony of " Dalrimpill," in Ayrshire, upon the resignation of Mal- colm, the son of Gilchrist, the son of Adam de " Dalrimpill ;** and in 1377, the same John Kennedy obtained another charter from Robert II. of the other half of the barony of " Dalrympill," upon the resignation of Hugh, the son of Roland de " Dalrympill," and the whole continued to belong to his descendants till the reign of Charles II. 1660-84. Land^owners. — The land-owners of the parish are the Marquis of Ailsa, who has in point of valuation more than the half ; R. A. Oswald of Auchencruive, Esq. who has nearly a fourth ; the Ho- nourable Mrs Leslie Gumming ; and Andrew Hunter of Bonnie- "ton, Esq. Skeldon and Hollybush are the only gentlemen's seats • in the parish. The former is the property of Mrs Leslie Gum- ming, and is occupied by Sir James Montgomery Guninghame of Gorsehill, Bart. ; the other is the property of Mr Hunter, and is occupied by Captain Brian Hodgson, R. N. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers of births and marriages, and the minutes of the kirk-session, commence in 1699, immediately after the ordination of Mr Lawrie. The register of deaths commences in 1739, and ends at 1793. A new volume, however, was begun in 1816. Including an heritors' book, there are eight volumes altogether, and the whole have been kept pretty regularly. Antiquities — Roman Road. — The line of a Roman road, sup- posed to have formed a communication between the Friths of Sol- way and Clyde, passes through this parish. Entering it at the eastern extremity, it passes through the farms of Polnessan, Smith- ston, Newfield, Boreland, Hollybush- Mains, and Causeway, which is supposed to have taken its name from this road. From Cause- way it goes on to the farm of Perclewan, and passing through this a,nd the farm of Lindston, it enters the parish of Ayr. Mr Chal- mers, in his Caledonia, mentions^ that ^^ some old people call this the Picts R.oad, and others, the Roman Way ;*' — " but the con- struction of the pavement in the Roman manner evinces clearly, he says, that it was a Roman Road." — " The Romans having such a road, he continues, must necessarily have had encamp- DALRYMPLE. 279 ments through which it passed, yet no Roman camp has yet been discovered in Ayrshire. Their trinkets have been found in various parts of this extensive shire. They had erected their villas along the fine shore of the Clyde Frith, from Kellyburn to Irvine ; and on this coast the remains of their baths have been discovered." Roman Vessels. — A tripod of Roman bronze, and understood to be one of those used by the priest in pouring libations on the sacrifice, or otherwise about the altar, was found in a drained part of Lindston Lioch, near the Roman road, about fifty years ago ; X and a pitcher of earthen- ware, like that represented in prints, in the hand of the woman of Samaria, at the well at Sychar, was found at Perclewan, on the line of the same road in 1833. Both have handles ; the tripod has also a spout, and the pitcher is glaz-* ed, and of a greenish colour, and has the figure of a man's face and hands on the front, in relief. British Fortlets. — On a ridge of a rising ground, about three miles in length, forming the boundary between the valley of Dal- rymple and the low road from Ayr to Maybole, are the remains of three British fortlets* They are all circular, and surrounded by trenches, and contain each about fifty falls of ground. The trenches were filled with a rich black mould, resembling moss* earth ; and on its being removed some years ago for the purpose of manure, human skulls, bones, and deers' horns were found. Coins, — About ten years ago, some silver coins were found in a grave in the church- yard here. Two of them, which came into the writer's possession, are of the reign of James I. of Scotland, (1424-36,) and apparently half-groats. The one is of the Edin- burgh mint, and the other was struck at Stirling. They bear on the obverse, within a rose, the head of the sovereign, crowned, full-faced, with the sceptre on the right. Legend, jacobus . dei • GRATIA . REX . scoTORUM. On the reverse, a cross with three pellets, and a fleur-de-lis alternately in the quarters. Legend, DOMINDS . PROTECTOR . MEUS . BT . LIBERATOR . ME US, and withip a dotted circle, the first, villa .-edinburgi, the other villa . STREVEVLI. There were also four silver pennies, of Edward L and III. of England, found in a ploughed field near the village in 1835. The largest has on one side, edw . r . angl . dns . hyb, and on the re- verse, civiTAS . LONDON. Two of them have on the reverse, ci- YiTAs . CANTOR, and the fourth, civitas. dureme.* • 'flic coins, Roman vessels, a spear found in Barbieston holm, and part of a di-cr** . 1 280 AYRSHIRE. Stone Coffin, S^c. — A stone coffin and bones were found in Bar- bieston holm, near the river Doon, and about a furlong to the east of Dalrymple village. In answer to inquiries on that subject, Mr Fullarton very kindly made the following communication : ^* About 1 804-5, 1 had bought the farm of Barbieston, and, wishing to make a new approach to my house at Skeldon, I set some men to work to form that road, in the course of which operation they had to cut though a small hillock of gravel. This proving of immediate use in making the road, was followed, and a considerable part re- moved, when suddenly the workers came on a stone coffin, in which was the skeleton of a large-sized person in a state of decay. On taking up the right thigh bone, I applied it to my own leg, as nearly as I possibly could to my hip-joint, and it went nearly to the middle of my shin, and I stand five feet eleven inches. From these circumstances, I was led to think that the bones must have belonged to some tall, powerful man, some chief or captain, par- ticularly as a battle is reported by HoUingshed, and also by Spot- tiswood, to have been fought at the ford of Barbieston." * Cairns of Stones. — In Barbieston holm,- and near the place where the stone coffin was found, there was a large cairn of stones ; and not far distant there were two others, one at St Valley, and an- other at Priest-hill. The whole, however, were removed in the course of the last thirty years, and among the stones were human and other bones, and some heads of pikes, spears, &c.f born found in the trench of one of the fortlets, are all in the custody of the writer uf this account at Dalrymple manse. * Extract from HolUogshed. He asserts that the r^ion of the Silures, or of Si- lurie, contains Kyle» Carrick, and Cunningham. He thinks Coil <* the same whom the Bryttans name Gutteline.**-— " Coil of Bryttaine assembling an armie, he cntred into the Scottish borders, lying towards the Irish seas, wasting with fire and sword whatsoever he found in his ways, till he came * even to the river of Dune/ where he encamped on the banks thereof.*"— From Spottiswood. l^his historian relates, that, in the year 960. Maximus, a Roman prefect, excited the Picts to enter into an al- liance with him against the Scots, and that the Romans and Picts encountered the Scots at the Water of Dun in Carrick. The Scots were routed, and their King, £u- gcnius, with most of his nobility, slain. — From Boethius, Scotorum liistoria. He relates that Coil was king of the Britons, Kenneth of the Scots. The latter, in con- junction with the Picts, attacked Coil, ** ad Dun« amnis ripam." The Scots made the attack in front, while the Picts came upon him from behind by night. " Coilus ipse, dum incautius a suis servaretur, oppressus, occubuit, loco nomen, Coilum, (nunc CoUl, mutato paulum Tocabulo dicunt) perpetuo ad postcros relinquens.'* — Bucha- nan, Rer. Scoticar. Hist. Lib. iv. C. iv. v. ** Igitur excrcitu quantum poterant coacto duo regcs biiariam Brittonum fines ingressi, agris ferro, flammaque late deformatts, cum ingenti praeda domum revertuntur. Ad earn injuriam vindicandam, Britto Scotorum fines ingressus, ad Dunum usque amnem penetravit," &c. t The following extract, from an historical and genealogical account of the princi- pal families of the name of Kennedy, from an original MS. (printed at Edinburgh, 1830,) may account for one of the cairns. The House of J>onour or Dunure.— ^ This houw remanit anc lang time, bot in anc sober estait, not hcfland na grit rent« DALllYMPLE. 281 Castles. — There were several old castles in the parish, Kerse, Skeldon, BarbiestoD, &c. Some stones of the old vaults in Bar- bieston were found, bearing the dates of 1340 and 1345. This castle was modernized about fifty years ago, and is now a comfort- able dwelling-house. A part only of Skeldon Castle Js in exist- ence, and like most ruined buildings, it has an echo. As to Kerse Castle, there is not one stone now left upon another, to point out where it was. The greatest part of it was used in the building of Skeldon House about sixty years ago, and the rest by the neigh- bouring farmers for various purposes.* Mills. — Of mills, there are at Perclewan, a meal-mill ; at Bar- bieston, a barley and flour-mill ; at Dalrymple village, a saw-mill ; and throughout the parish eighteen or twenty thrashing-mills, five or six of which are driven by water, and the rest by horses. At Nethermill, on the river Doon, there is a wooJIen manufactory, car- ried on by Mr William Templeton, a gentleman of great ingenu- ity and success, with respect to machinery. In the course of last year, Mr Templeton introduced gas light into his mill, which is of the greatest consequence and comfort to the workers. nor commandyment of the country. For we hear na gritt mcntioune maid of thaiin in Wallis dayis, nor the Bnids tyme. For at the Bamis of Air, the Laird of Cais- sillis was Sir Neil Montgomery ; quha, as we read in Wallace buik, was haogit in Air, be the deseitt of the Inglishmanne ; hot because that the Cronikil makis men- tioime beirof, I rest theiron. Bot the airis of this Sir Neill bruikit the landis of ("aissillis quhill the ring of Robert the Secund, the first of the Stewarts, at the whilk time the lairdis landis fell to ane lass. And the Laird of Dalrumpill, hir nyteboir, come to hir hous of Caissillis, and perseivit hir, be furse, to have hir in marrage ; the quhilk scho wold noch condiscend to, bot defendit the hous. And at this tyme, the l^aird of Donour that than was, he coming by, and perseiflSng the samin, set upon the Laird of Dalrumpill and slew him, and rclciflSt the lady, and tuik hir with him to his hous of Donour. Now the Laird of Dalrumpill being slanc as ye have hard, his landis lallis to his broder sonis amongis the quhilk, thair was gritt stryff ; but the youngest at last said his rycht to the Laird of Donour. And thane the Laird of Donour sett for the eldest, and slew him, littil abuiff the kirk of Dalrumpill ; quhair now, thair is ane gritt cairn of stanis to this day. And this was Dalrumpillis con- queist." * It may not be out of place to refer here to a poem composed by the late Sir Alex- ander Boswell, from a traditional story communicated to him by George Rankine of 'Wbitehill, Esq. to whom he dedicated it, and the date of the encounter he assigns to the fifteenth century. A few copies only were printed at the celebrated Auchln- leck prets, and circulated among his most intimate friends. Mr Pitcaim of Edin* burgh, who published in 1830, the historical account of the Kennedys, already re- ferred to, reprinted this poem in the appendix of that book. He says that two differ- ent versions of the story are traditionally current among some very aged people in Carrick. One of these is that which has been adopted by Sir Alexander BoswelL The other rehites, that three of the Crawfords of Lochnorris were present at the bat- tle, one of whom returned, heavily bemoaning the (all of his two brothers, when hia widowed mother suddenly cut short his lamentation by exclaiming, <* Is the sow flit- ted ? Aye is she, replied the youth, and five score of the Kennedies are drowned in the Doon.** In that part of the Doon which bounds Borcland farm in this parish, there is a ikx>1, called " Kcnnedie*s Pool," to this day, from the circumstance of their having t>ecn drowned there. 282 AYRSHIRE. IIL — Population. From the returns made to Dr Webster in 1755, it appears that the population of the parish at that time was 439 ; but when Mr Walker wrote his Statistical Account in 1791, the number of souls was only QSO. Since that period, however, the population has greatly increased, partly from the erection of the village of Dal- rymple, and partly from the^subdivision of the lands of Martinham, so that the number amounted In 1801, to 514 1811, 811 1821, 933 1831, 964 In June 1831, the number of persona under 15 years of age, was 387 betwixt 15 and 30, . . 238 30 50, . 197 50 70, . 105 upwards of 70, . . . 37 Of these, 703 IWc in the country, and 261 in the village of Dal rymple. llie number of families is . > . . .190 Of which are employed in agriculture, • • • . 88 Number of married men, 128 ; widowers, 9 ; and bachelors, upwards of 50 years of age, 11, . . . . * . .148 females who are widows, . . . • 23 unmarried, upwards of 45, • . - . 16 The average of births for the last eight years, from 1829 to 1836, . 32 marriages, ...... 9 deaths, . .... 14 CfiaracteTy S^c. — In a letter from Mr Campbell of Cumnock, who was upwards of twenty years schoolmaster of Dalrymple, he says, ^^ you will not &il I am sure to give the peaceful inhabitants of Dalrymple, that character for decency, sobriety, and orderly con- duct, to which they are so justly entitled." The writer of this Ac- count, after an eight years residence among them as their minis- ter, has great pleasure in bearing his humble testimony to Mr Campbell's statement. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres standard imperial measure in the parish may be about 6700 ; of which 4200 are arable ; 1900 consist of hill pasture and meadow ; 500 are under wood, and 100 under water. The rent of land in the valley of Dalrymple is from L. 2 to L. 4, 10s. per acre ; and the average of arable land through- out the parish is L. 1, ds. The principal crops raised are oats and wheat. The soils on which the wheat is generally sown, and where it grows to the greatest advantage, are the clean clay, properly fal- lowed ; the deep dry holm land, and the light sandy and gravelly soils after potatoes or turnips. If the ground be sufficiently dry, it is generally sown as soon as they are taken off the field ; if not, the sowing is deferred till the following spring. Wheat in most DALRYMPLE. 283 seasons grows best od fallow land, and when sown about the mid- dle of autumn. The kinds mostly used are the white, red, creep- ing and spring wheat. Oats are sown on every kind of soil capable of cultivation ; they grow best, however, on the clay and loam. A great variety are sown, among which may be mentioned the com- mon, the potato, the red, the gray, and the early and late Angus- shire. Barley, bear, potatoes, turnips, beans, pease, carrots, beet, cabbages, flax, && are grown mostly for family use. The following are the general rotations of crops : fifst year or lea crop, oats ; second year, green crop of potatoes, turnips, beans or pease ; third, wheat, oats, barley, or any white crop, and sow down with rye-grass, white, red, and yellow clover. Another system is, 1. oats ; 2. fal- low ; 3. wheat or any white crop, and sown down with rye-grass, &c Another, 1. oats; 2. fallow; 3. wheat or oats ; 4. beans or pease, and sow down ; or 5. a white crop and sow down. Another, 1. oats, with manure on the surface, previous to ploughing ; 2. oats and sow down. Another, manure the surface ; take three white crops in succession, and sow down. The general method of fallowing land in this parish is to plough it as lightly as possible, early in winter ; to cross plough it with a deep furrow in May or June, and to give two ploughings more, in the coui'se of the summer. These, with the necessary harrowing, draining, rolling, manuring, &c. make it ready for the seed, which is usually sown in September or October. Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants get from L. 10 to L. 16 per an- num, besides a free house and garden, two pecks of oatmeal, and two of potatoes a-week, and their coals led; women get from 'L. 5 to L. 8, with board and lodging ; labourers from Is. to Is. 6d. with, and from Is. 6d. to 2s. without victuals ; cartwrights, from Is. 6d. to Is. 9d. with victuals. Blacksmiths either charge a cer- tain sum for each piece of work, or agree with the farmers at so much a-year. Cheese, — There are, at an average, about 3600 stones of sweet milk cheese annually made in the parish ; of which a great part are sold to retail-dealers , the rest to families in Ayr, Maybole, and throughout the neighbourhood, and part kept for home consump* tion. What is sold to the families is generally coloured, and, tov the most part, shaped like the Cheshire and Stilton cheeses. The average price per stone for the last eight years was 8s. 6d. Amount of raw produce. — The average amount of raw produqe^ raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows ; L.6400 1700 2000 1760 800 L. 13,260 "o 284 AYRSHIRE. Ofgrairiy .... Of potatoes and tumipsi Of hay and hay^seed, . • Of land in patture» Of miscellaneous produce, including a nursery garden, The general duration of leases is nineteen years, a period far too limited to promote the improvemem of agriculture, and the hap- piness and welfare of the &rmer. V. — Parochial Economy. Village. — Dalrymple is the only village in th^ parish, and is si- tuated on the river Doon, about half way between Ayr and May- bole. It formerly consisted of a few thatched cottages huddled together round the churchyard ; but about the beginning of this century, the Marquis of Ailsa granted feus in a more eligible situa- tion, and in a short time the present neat village, which is much ad- mired by every stranger, was erected. A carrier from the village goes to Ayr every Tuesday and Friday, and returns on the same days ; and as there is no post-office in the parish, he carries also letters and newspapers. Means of Communication* — The London, Edinburgh, and Glas* gow mail-coaches to and from Ireland pass every evening, about half-past nine or ten, within a mile and a-half of the village ; and during a great part of the year, the Ayr and Dumfries stage-coach goes on one day and returns on the next, for several miles, through the upper part of the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — " Of the more early history of the church of Dalrymple," says Mr Chalmers in his Caledonia, " research has found nothing. • When James IV. re-established the chapel-royal of Stirling in the beginning of the sixteenth century, he annexed to it the church of Dalrymple, the revenues whereof formed one of the prebends of that chapel. The cure of the church was in the meantime held by a curate. The patronage of the prebend of Dalrymple belonged to the King ; and even after the church ceased to be connected with the chapel- royal, the King continued the patron of the same church." — The present church is pleasant- ly situated on the river Doon, at the south-west extremity of the parish. It is near the village, but by no means convenient for the families in the upper part of the parish, as they are distant from it from four to six miles. It was rebuilt on the old foundation in a very superficial manner in 1764, and as it is, besides, by far too small for the population, it is to be hoped that the land-owners DALRYMPLE. 285 ifvill in a short time build a new church. Divine service is in ge- neral well attended. The Lord's supper is dispensed once a-year, and the average number of communicants is 350. The number of persons^ male heads of femilies, who have the right of exercis- ing the veto, amounts at present to 127. There is no other place of worship but the parish church ; and, with the exception of four or five Dissenters who came from other parishes, the parishioners adhere to the Establishment Tent-preaching is still kept up here on the sacramental Sabbaths. In one of the session records, of date 6th June 1808, after mention is made that the sacraments was dispensed according to appointment, the following is added : ^^ It deserves to be remarked, that there was no sermon at the tent at all on this occasion, — a thing that has not occurred in this parish, as far as we know, in the memory of any living." Manse, Glebe, ^c, — The manse was built about the end of last century, and a very neat addition was made to it in 1832. The glebe consists of 4 acres, and is worth L» 10 per annum. It appears from a minute of the Presbytery of Ayr in September 1701, that the Kirk-hill, consisting of 14 acres, which lets at pre- sent for upwards of L. 30, was designed as a grass-glebe to the minister ; but, from some unknown circumstance, the ground thus designed is now the property of the Marquis of Ailsa. The sti- pend is 15 chalders, half meal and half barley, besides L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements, and L. 1, 10s. 4d. as an allowance for a grass-glebe. The average price of a chalder to the clergy in this county for the last seven years, viz. from 1829 to 1835 (for the fiars for crop and year 1836 are not yet struck,) was L. 14, 13s. 3d. Ministers iff Dalrymple. — The first Presbyterian minister of Dalrymple, as far 'as can be ascertained from the records of the Presbytery of Ayr, which go back to 1642, was Mr Robert Spreule, who was also Presbytery clerk. How long he was settled before that date, and how long he continued, and whether he had any immediate successor, is unknown, as some of the records of those troublous times are either lost, or were never in existence. In 1694, Mr James Gilchrist was ordained and admitted minister of Dalrymple; in 1699, Mr James Laurie; in 1727, Mr John Adams, who was translated to Falkirk in 1744; in 1745, Mr Samuel Wal- ker; in 1754, Mr Ebenezer Walker, brother of the former; in 1798, Mr Robert Steven, minister of Catrine chapel, was admitted; and on the 19th of February 1829, the present incumbent, Mr Robert Wallace, was ordained and admitted. l! 286 AYRSHIRE. Educations—There are two schools; the parochial, which is si- tuated in the village ; and Hollybush school, about the centre of the parish. The branches taught at these schools are English reading and grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, Latin, Greek, French, geography, mathematics, &c. The parochial schoolmaster's salary is L. 90, which, with school-fees, L. 25, and L. 8 in compensation for a house and garden, and perquisites from his office as session-clerk, make his income from L. 60 to L. 70. The teacher of Hollybush school has a free school and dwell- #ing-house, and a good garden from Mr Hunter, the proprietor of Hollybush. The average number of scholars at the parochial school is 60; and at Hollybush school, 45; and both schools are very well conducted. The parochial schooUhouse was formerly at St Valley, a little to the north-east of the village, and now forms part of a farm-steading. * Societies. — Of societies, there are a Friendly Society, a Musical Society, a Burns's club, and a curling, club. The Friendly Society, or, as it is termed, ^^ the Dalrymple Friendly Society," was insti- tuted in 1807. According to the articles of this Society, the num- ber of members must be sixty ; and if, by the providence of Al- mighty God, any member be disabled from work, by sickness or any evident misfortune, and- judged so by the visiting master, he, without any regard to his circumstances, shall receive the. sum of 6s. per week when confined within doors, and when able to walk about shall receive 4s. per week ; and when any member dies, the surviving members are obliged to contribute each the sum of Is. towards defraying funeral expenses, — to attend the funeral, if de- sired, — and if there be' no relations, the preses is to act as chief mourner. In 1836, a General Agricultural Association for Ayrshire was instituted at Ayr, and the minister and several of the fiumers of this parish are members of the association. Savings Bank, — In May 1831, a savings bank was established in May bole for it and the neighbouring parishes, and, with the ex- ception of Maybole, this parish, it seems, has contributed more than any of the rest In the course of that time, there have been * It is to this school that Mr Lockhart, the talented biographer of Bums, alludes in his life of the poet. ** When Burns,** says he, **■ was about thirteen or fourteen years old, his father sent him and Gilbert, week about, during a summer quarter, to the parish school of Dalrymple, two or three miles distant from Mount 01iphant,for the improvement of their penmanship. The good old man could not pay two fees, or his boys could not be spared at the same time from the labour of the farm." 4 DALHYMPLE. 287 63 contributors irom this parish alone, 36 males and 27 females^ principally composed, the former of tradesmen and servants, and the latter of sewers and servants. The average amount yearly in- vested is L. 73, and the amount withdrawn L. 41. This bank has had the tendency to give most of the contributors industrious and provident habits. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are at present 12 persons regularly receiving parochisA aid ; and the average sum allotted to each is 6s. 6d. per month ; there are several also who are supplied occasionally according to their necessities ; and three orphans who • * _ are maintained from the parochial funds. The annual amount of contributions for their relief is about L. 70, of which from L. 30 to L. 40 arise from church collections, the income from a mortcloth, &c. ; and the rest is obtained from the landed proprietors. Alehouses. — There are two alehouses in the parish, — one in the village, and the other on the road from Ayr to Dalmellingfon, and about halfway from both places. Fuel. — The fuel generally used is coal, brought from the pa- rishes of Stair, Coylton, Straiten, and Dalmellington. The dis- tance of the nearest coal-pit from Dalrymple village is five miles ; and a ton of coals, including carriage and tolls, costs 13s. Miscellaneous Observations. In the former Statistical Account of Dalrymple, Mr Walker men- tions that " the lower part of the parish is surrounded by little green hills." These hills are now for the most part fruitful fields, and yield luxuriant crops of oats, wheat, &c. ; the remainder is covered with thriving plantations of all the trees common to this country. When the former Account was written, there was no wheat grown in the parish. This is now, in the lower part, about one-third of the grain crop. The fences, which consisted formerly of large unshapen stones gathered from the fields, are now in a great mea- sure superseded by hedges of thorn, beech, and privet, which, with clumps of plantations scattered throughout the parish, give it a much more clothed and interesting appearance, and are, moreover, highly beneficial in afibrding shelter to the cattle in wet and stormy weather. Of upwards of thirty farm-houses and steadings, about one- half have been erected in the course of this century, with con- siderable taste, and at the same time for the comfort and conve- nience of the tenants. They are built of rubble stone, slated, and 288 AYRSHIRE. rou^h-cast, with lime» sand, and gravel. They have each, too, a thrashing-mill, driven either by water or horses. In the course of this century, that part of the barony of Mar« tinham in this parish, consisting of about 500 acres, (formerly let as a grazing-farm, but without either a house or a residenter on it,) has been subdivided into several &rms, and has now eleven dwelling-houses, inhabited by upwards of seventy souls. With the improvements in the parish, the rental has also kept pace, having, in the course of thirty years, been more than tripled. In 1792, it amounted to L. 1670 Sterling; in 1807, to L. 3525 ; and in 1822, to L. 5192. In 1736, the number of births was 13 ; in 1786, 12 ; and in 1836, 35. In 1736, the collections at church amounted to L. 7 ; in 1786, to L. 12 ; and in 1836 to L. 30. The line of the projected railway from Ayr to Girvan passes through the southern part of this parish. September 1837. PARISH OF DUNLOP, PRESBYTERY OF IRVINE, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. MATTHEW DICKIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of this parish is supposed to be derived from two Gaelic words, dun, a fortified height, and luiby a wind- ing, as of a stream. According to local tradition, the Castle of Dunlop stood in ancient times on the top of a small eminence^ (still called Dunlop Hill,) near the church. As the stream which passes Dunlop winds round the base of this hill, a castle so si- tuated might have been appropriately called dun^luib, or the forti- fied hill at the winding ; and it has been conjectured, that the name of this baronial residence was afterwards given to the church, and the parochial district annexed to it. Extent^ Boundaries, Sfc. — This parish is of an oblong form. Its extreme length from S. W. to N. E. is about 7 miles, and its ge- neral breadth nearly 2 miles. At the southern and northern extre- mities it becomes much narrower, being for about a mile of length 8 DUNLOP. 289 at each end, scarcely half a mile broad. It contains about 10^ square miles of surface. It is bounded on the N. by Neilston ; on the N. W. by Beith ; on the S. and S. E. by Stewarton. The greater part of it lies in the district of Gunninghame and county of Ayr, but on the N. it extends into Renfrewshire. It has been alleged that these lands in Renfrewshire, extending to about 1000 imperial acres, are connected with Dunlop only quoad sacraj and that, quoad civilian they belong to the parish of Neilston. It has never been clearly ascertained whether this is the case or not ; but the circumstance of their having paid all parish burdens to Dunlop from time immemorial, seems to lead to a different conclusion. Topographical Appearances, — Though the whole parish is con* siderably above the level of the sea,* the ground nowhere rises into any eminence that deserves the name of a hill, much less of a mountain. Perhaps no height in the parish has an elevation of more than 150 feet above the adjacent hollow. The surface of the greater part of it is gently undulating. It rises with a gradual slope from S. W. to N. £., where it attains its greatest elevation in the small hills of Craignaught and Knockmead. In the neigh- bourhood of the church, the surface is very uneven, a number of low hills, or more properly knolls, being there crowded together in a very irregular manner : and in many other places, while the low ridges between the streamlets that intersect the parish, slope upward on one side with a gentle ascent, they terminate abruptly on the other, in steep grassy banks or precipitous rocks. The aspect of the country would be much improved by additional plan- tations. Those already existing, are chiefly on those parts of the estates of Dunlop and Caldwell which lie on the confines of the parish, so that in the central parts, though almost every farm- house has some trees about it, there is not enough of wood to give the country a sheltered appearance. From its comparatively ele- vated situation, this parish from many points commands a very rich and varied prospect. From Brackenheugh, about a mile to the south of the church, the view is particularly grand. The highly cultivated and richly wooded district, lying between Dunlop and the sea, seems spread out like a map ; the shores of the Frith of Clyde, from Ardrossan to the Cairn of Lochryan, with its va- rious bays and headlands, are distinctly seen, while the mountains * The church of Dunlop is computed to be about 350 feet above the level of the sea, and Knockmead Hill, the highest point in the parish, about 560. AYR. T 290 AYRSHIRE. of Arran, with Ailsa Craig and the hills of Ireland, form the back- ground of the scene. ' The temperature of Dunlop is somewhat colder than that of the lower parts of the county. This is to be ascribed in part to its height above the sea, but chiefly to the wetness of the soil in many places, and the want of wood. If the land was thoroughly drained, and properly sheltered by plantations, it is thought that this evil might in a great measure be got rid of. Persons well qualified to judge are of opinion, that the draining already effected has done much good in this respect. It is supposed to be owing to this, that early autumnal frosts, which were at one time common and very hurtful, are now little known. The climate of Dunlop is justly considered very healthy. There is no endemical disease in the parish, and it has seldom suffered much from the epidemics which, from time to time, have prevailed in neighbouring districts. The people in general enjoy excellent health, and many of them live to a good old age. At present there are nine persons upwards of eighty years of age. Two of these are above ninety. Hydrography, — Dunlop abounds with springs of excellent wat«r. They are all perennial. None of them deserve particular notice, on account either of the quantity or quality of their water. There is now no lake in the parish, Halket Loch, (extending to about nine or ten acres,) which was the only one, having been drained a few years ago, at the joint expense of the proprietors whose lands border on it. It is now an excellent meadow. The draining of this loch has had the effect of completely preventing the mildew, from which the crops immediately around it formerly suffered much. The principal stream connected with the parish is the Lugton. It rises out of Loch Libo in Renfrewshire, and, after a course of about fifteen miles in a south west direction, joins the Gamock near Kilwinning. It separates Dunlop from Beith. Corsehill burn separates Dunlop from Stewarton. The Glazert, which is joined by a few very small rivulets, drains the centre of the parish, divid- ing it into two nearly equal parts. After a course of about ten or eleven miles, it &lls into the Annack, which is tributary to the Irvine. It passes close to the church and village. All these streams are very inconsiderable, affording scarcely water enough to drive the corn-mills erected on them. Geology and Minei'alogy. — The prevailing rocks are claystone. DUNLOP. 291 passing into claystone-porphyry and amygdaloid, with subordinate masses of greenstone and basalt. These rocks often jut through the surface, sometimes forming precipices of considerable height, but though many quarries have been opened where they are thus exposed, they have not been wrought to such an extent as to show their general direction and inclination. Where they break through the surface they are often much disintegrated, and are generally a confused mass, destitute of regular stratification. The irregular seams and fissures running through them, all lie in a direction ap- proaching to vertical. At Craighead, near the centre of the parish, is a bed of greenstone, composed of seams of different thicknesses, which supplies excellent building stones. The depth and extent of it have not been ascertained. At Templehouse, near the vil- lage, and a few other places, greenstone of good quality is also met with. Columnar basalt occurs at Lochridgehills. The co- lumns, as far as they have been laid bare by the working of a quarry at the place, are about 1 8 feet in height, and 20 inches in thickness. They are generally pentagonal, and somewhat curved. Next to these rocks, limestone is the most abundant. At Laigh Gameshill it has long been quarried. This bed is in some places about 16 feet thick, and of excellent quality. In other places it is of much less value, being thinner, and having many layers of indurated clay interspersed. Another bed of limestone appears at intervals in the farms of Bourock, East and West Wa- terland, on the banks of the Lugton. Very little use has yet been made of it Connected with this limestone, freestone and coal are found. They are still almost untouched. A short time ago, a few carts of coals were taken out, but they were found ' to be of such inferior quality as not to be worth the expense of extracting them. It is not known whether the sandstone and coal are co- extensive with the limestone. Besides these two principal beds of limestone, there are less extensive masses of it in various other places. It everywhere abounds with petrified shells. The soil incumbent on all these rocks is generally of a dayey retentive nature, but very productive, especially in grass, when properly drained. In a few places, in the southern division of the parish, it is loamy, and in the higher grounds patches of moss occur here and there. Zoology. — Of quadrupeds, the hare, wild rabbit, weasel, and mole are common. Roe-deer have for some years past frequented 292 AYRSHIRE. the woods io the neighbourhood of Caldwell. It is supposed that their number does not exceed eight or nine. The fox has nearly disappeared, though it is still occasionally seen. The following birds are found in great numbers : blackbird, thrush, bullfinch, lark, curlew, grey and green linnet, rail, and partridge. The pheasant, missel-thrush, goldfinch, heron, wild- dupk, teal, and snipe, are to be met with, but they cire not nume- rous. The starling, which a few years ago was almost unknown, is now very common. In the Lugton, pike and trout abound, and the other small streams are well stored with burn trouts. The Glazert is said to have produced char in former times, but they are not now found in it 11. — Civil History. Accounts of the Parish. — In Robertson's topographical descrip- tion of Cunninghame, a short account is given of the parish of Dunlop. The author's attention is chiefly directed to family his- tory. A series of maps of the different parishes in Cunninghame was published a few years ago by Mr Aitken, land-surveyor, Beith. These maps are supposed to be very correct. Eminent Characters, — Several persons who have highly distin- guished themselves have been connected with this parish by birth or residence. The learned John Major or Mair, the instructor of Knox, while Professor of Theology at Glasgow, was also vicar of Dunlop, in which character it may be supposed he was at least occasionally resident in the parish. * James Hamilton, Viscount Clandeboyes, eldest son of Hans Hamilton, Vicar of Dunlop, by his talents and success, reflects honour on his native parish. He was sent to Ireland by James VI. in the year 1587, along with James FuUarton, to keep up £L correspondence with the Protestants of that kingdom, and communicate intelligence from time to time as to the designs of the Irish, in the event of Queen Elizabeth's death. The better to conceal their design, they opened a school in Dublin for the education of Protestant youth. After teaching privately for se- * His connection with this parish is shewn by the following extracts from the Old Register, entitled, << Annides Universitatis Glasguensis.** Under date Sd No- vember 1518, there is the following entry, ** Eodem die, inoorporati sub dicto Dno Rectore, Egregius vir, Mag. Johannes Majoris, Doctor Parisiensis ac principalis regens Collegie et padagogii dicte Universitatis, Canonicuaque Capelli reffie, ac vi- carloB de Dunlop,'* &c. Under date 24th May 1522, he is designed **> TheoTpgie pro- fessori thesaurarius Capelle regie StriTilingensis, Vicariusque de Dunlop.** — M*Cric*8 Life of Knox, Vol. i. p. 340, 34K DUNLOP. 293 veral years, they were appointed to fellowships in Trinity Col- lege, then newly founded, and by their talents contributed much to establish the high character which it soon acquired. After the accession of James to the throne of England, James Hamilton, who had discharged his mission to the satisfaction of the King, was rewarded by extensive grants of forfeited lands in the county of Down and elsewhere ; and after being employed in several im- portant services, was at length, in 1622, elevated to the peerage, by the title of Viscount Clandeboyes and Baron Hamilton. This title became extinct on the death of his grandson, Henry, Earl of Clanbrassil.* Lord Clandeboyes' five brothers having followed him to Ireland, shared his good fortune. Their numerous descendants, the Ha- miltons of Down, Armagh, Dublin, and Carlow, with their various collateral branches, are still possessed of great wealth and influ- ence. From them are descended the noble families of Clanbras- sil, Roden, Massareene and Dufferin. The first of these titles having become extinct through the feilure of heirs in the eldest branch of Hans. Hamilton's family, was granted to one of the de- scendants of a younger son, but has again become extinct Archi- bald Hamilton Rowan, so well known from his connection with the last Irish rebellion, was the lineal descendant of Hans Hamilton's second son, Archibald. James Dunlop of that Ilk, and Alexander Dunlop, his son, are deserving of notice as warm supporters of the Presbyterian cause in the reign of Charles II. Their opposition to the oppressive measures of the government, was severely punished by fines and imprisonment -f* In later times, several members of this family have been highly distinguished in the profession of arms, particularly Lieut.- Gene- ral James Dunlop, the last laird. His mother is well known as * the early friend and correspondent of Burns. Land'Owners.'^The chief land-owners, in the order of their valued rents, are, William Mure, Esq. of Caldwell, John Dunlop, Esq. of Dunlop, M. P., Richard Trotter, Esq. of Hapland, An- drew Brown, Esq. of Hill, and Col. M^Alester of Kennox. Parochial Registers, — The register of proclamations commences in 1700, and that of baptisms in 1701. With the exception of two or three short intervals, they have been kept with extreme in- * Andenon'i History of the House of Hamilton, t Wodrow*8 History, i. 280. ii. 309, 373. foL ed. 294 AYRSHIRE. accuracy till the year 1780, when the late minister entered on the chaise of the parish. Since that time they have been kept with great regularity. Antiquities. — The antiquities of Dunlop are not numerous. A few years ago, the ruins of a chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, were removed. They stood at a place called Chapelhouse, about half a mile from the village. Whether this was the parish church before the Reformation, as is conjectured in the former Statisti- cal Account, or a chapel distinct from it, as stated in- Chalmers' Caledonia, is now uncertain. In a field in the neighbourhood, is a large detached stone, round which, if tradition is to be believed^ it was customary for persons attending at the chapel to perform part of their devotions. It is called the ^^ ThugoTtstane,^^ sup- posed to be a corruption of ^^ the grit stcme" Dunlop House is another relic of former times, which has now disappeared. It was taken down about three years ago, to make way for the splendid new mansion which its proprietor is now erecting. It is thus described in Font's Cunninghame Topogra- phized. ^^ Dunlopp, ane ancient stronghouse, fortified vith a deipe foussie of watter, and planted with goodly orchards. — It belongs to James Dunloppe of that same, and chiefie of his name." It is uncertain when the original square tower, part of which remained till the whole building was removed, was erected. One of the more modem additions bore the date of 1599. Aiket Castle, about a mile south from the church, is now the oldest building in the parish. The date of its erection is not ex- actly known ; but as a considerable branch of the family of Cun- ninghame possessed the property of which it was the mansion, for some centuries preceding 1700, about which time it passed into other hands, we may assign to it a very respectable antiquity. It consisted originally of a square tower, vaulted on the ground floor, and four or five' storeys high. To this had been added at a later date some lower buildings. The appearance of the whole has been very much altered, by reducing the tower to the level of the annexed buildings. It is still inhabited. The only other building that has any claim to antiquity, is a small vaulted chamber in the churchyard^ in which Hans Hamil- ton, the minister of Dunlop, already mentioned, and his wife, are buried. There is a very accurate description of it given in the former Statistical Account of the parish. Modem Buildings. — Dunlop House is the only modern building DUN LOP. 295 that deserves particular notice. It is a magnificent mansion in the old English style. The design was furnished by Mr Hamil- ton of Glasgow. It stands in a beautifully sequestered situation, on the banks of the small stream which separates this parish from Stewarton. III. — Population. Population according to Dr Webster in . 1755, 796 last Statistical Account, in 1791, . 779 Government census in 1801 , 806 1811, . 990 1821, • 1029 ) 514 males. 1831, 1040 V 3 526 females. The popu ation in the month of August 1835 was 1 157, of whom 572 were males, and 585 females. The demand for la- bourers in consequence of agricultural improvements, is the chief cause of the increase of population which has so long been going on steadily. During last summer, the building of Dunlop House and the church, also caused a temporary increase of the population. Number af the present population residing in the Tillage, . 284 in the country, 873 * Yearly average of births for the last seven years, - - 33^ *of marriages, ... 9^ Number of persons under 15 years of age, « - 425 betwixt 15 and 30, - . 357 30 and 50, - - 221 50 and 70, - . 120 upwards of 70, - - - 34 1157 Number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers above 50, > 25 . unmarried women above 45^ • • •> 48 Number of fiimilies, ...... 222 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 134 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 45 Number of fatuous persons, 2 insane. 1 blind. I houses inhabited, 183 uninhabited. buildingy 3 One family of independent fortune resides in the parish. The number of proprietors of land, of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, is 37, of whom 23 are resident The total number of heritors is 54. * As the registration of births is scarcely ever neglected here, the statement with regard to their average number may be considered very nearly correct. — It often happens that only one of the parties proclaimed resides in the parish. In the above estimate, two such proclanuitions are considered equivalent to one marriage. — As no register of deaths is kept, their number cannot be exactly stated. The yearly rate of mortality for the three years and a half, during which the writer has resided in Dunlop, is 22. This is probably somewhat less than the average of a longer period would be, as there has till lately been comparatively little sickness in the parish. 296 AYRSHIRE. This miDute division of property is not of recent date. From an old manuscript valuation of Cunninghame, in the possession of John Dunlop, Esq. of Dunlop, it appears that in 1640, the time when it was drawn up, there were thirty-three heritors in the pa^ rish. The property of eight of these is still possessed by their de- scendants ; that of the rest has passed into other hands. Of the present heritors, several are the representatives of families that have jpossessed the properties they now hold from a remote period. Family ofDmlop. — The family of Dunlop of that Ilk can be traced back to the year 1260, in which year Dom. William de Dunlop is incidentally mentioned, in connection with an inquest respecting certain lands in litigation between Dom. Godfrey de Ross and the burgh of Irvine. The deed is in the charter-diest of Irvine. In the Ragman Roll, Neill Fitz Robert de Dunl(^ who is supposed by Nisbet to be an ancestor of this family, is men- tioned as one of the barons who swore fealty to Edward I. of Eng- land in 1296. Since that early period, this family has held the estate of Dunlop up to the 'present time, with the exception of a short period about the end of the fourteenth and beginning of the fifteenth centuries, when it was forfeited on account, as has been conjectured, of the part its representative took in the contest be- tween Bruce and Baliol for the Scottish crown. — (Nisbet's Heral- dry, Vol. ii. and Robertson's Description of Cunninghame.) Family ofGemmil of Templehouse, — The family of Gemmil of Templehouse is also of old standing in this parish. From Pitcaim's Criminal Trials, it appears that on the 4th of November 1570, Patrik Gemmil of Tempilhouse was one of a jury on the trial of <^ William Cunninghame of Aiket, William Fergushill, Florence Crawfurd, and John Raeburn of that Ilk, delatit of the slauchter of umql. Johnne Mure of Cauldwell.'* The property of this fiimily has always been small. Other Families. — The families of Anderson of Broadlee, Brown of Hill, as representative of the Andersons of Craighead, and the Dunlops of Hill and Boreland, as well as some others, are of more than two centuries standing. Character of the People.'^lt is believed that the people gene- rally enjoy in a reasonable degree the comforts as well as the necessaries of life. Where labourers have made early and im- provident marriages, their circumstances may not in some in- stances be so prosperous as could be wished ; but as they have good wages and abundant employment, any thing like destitu- DUNLOP. 297 tion among them is unknown. There are no indications of their being discontented with their situation. They are distinguished for shrewdness in managing their affairs, as well as for persevering industry ; and as they generally retain the frugal habits of the olden time, many of them have prospered in their worldly circum- stances. Though not much given to reading, they have almost all a small collection of books, chiefly m divinity. As in other places, there are some persons addicted to intemperance, and the other grosser vices, but in general they are sober and moral in their habits. They are commendably regular in their attendance on di- vine ordinances. Family worship, it is alleged, is more neglected than in former times, but is still kept up in a considerable proper^ tion of families. Though the killing of game without a license is not looked on as a very heinous offence, especially if the per- mission of the proprietor on whose land it is found has been ob- tained, poaching is little practised. Smuggling is altogether un- known. During the last three years there have been 4 illegitimate births. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Mural Economy. — According to the information received from the different fiirmers as to the extent of their re- spective holdings, it appears that the parish contains 6554 impe- rial acres. This estimate can be considered only as a near ap- proach to the truth, several of the properties not being measured. The land may be thus divided : Caltivated or occasionally in tillage, . 5834 imperial acres. ( Natural pasture, • m 311 Uncultivated, < Meadow, - 248 C M06S, • 30 Under wood (planted,) - 131 6554 With the exception of moss, which would not repay the expense of improvement, and meadow, which is more valuable in its present state than if it was brought into tillage, almost all the uncultivated land consists of steep banks where the plough could not be used, so that probably not more than 40 acres of it could be cultivated with profit There is no natural wood. The kinds of trees plant* ed are, larch, Scotch fir, ash, elm, beech, and plane. The management of the plantations on some of the larger estates is good, pruning and thinning, as well as draining and fbn- cing, being carefully attended to. This cannot be said of the ma- nagement on many of the smaller properties. The plantations on 298 AYRSHIRE. these are generally narrow belts immediately around the farm- houses. From a wish to get as much shelter as possible, with a small sacrifice of ground, the trees are often allowed to grow up in so crowded a state, that they soon choke each other. There are few trees of great age or size in the parish. The largest is a plane tree on the &rm of Laigh Gameshill. It measures 13 feet 10 inches in circumference at the height of three feet from the ground. Rent of Land. — The rent of land cannot be exactly ascertained, as more tl^an 1600 acres are in the natural possession of the owners. The average rent of that occupied by tenants, which being of various qualities, may be considered a fair average of the whole, is L.1, 4s. per imperial acre. The uncultivat- ed land is, on an average, equal in value to that under tillage, for though the natural pasture and moss are worth less, the mea- dows are worth more. According to this estimate, the rental of the parish, if all was in lease, would be L. 7864, 16s. The valued rent is L. 4115, 17s. 6d. Scots. The average rent of grazing for the summer is, for a milch cow, L. 4, 10s. ; for a cow or ox fattening, L. 8, 10s. ; for young cattle 6( different ages, L. 1, 10s. each on the average. The grass of a eWe or full-grown sheep for the year costs 15s. Rate of fVoffeSj Prices^ Sfc. — The rate of wages of farm*labour- ers and country artisans varies a little at different times, and ac- cording to the qualifications of the persons hired, but for several years it has been nearly as follows : man-servant for the year, with board and lodging, L. 16; maid-servant, do. do. L. 8; labourers, per day, with victuals, in summer, 2s« ; in winter, Is. 8d. ; in har- vest, 2s. 6d. to 3s. ; females for field-work, per day, with victuals, in summer. Is.; in harvest. Is. 6d. to 2s.; tailor, per day, with victuals. Is. lOd. ; mason and carpenter, in summer, 2s. 6d. ; in winter, 2s. Several kinds of work are occasionally done by the piece. The following is a list of the prices usually paid : building ruble wall, per rood, exclusive of material, L. 1, 10s. ; plastering per yard, do. 8d. ; building dry stone dikes, per fall, dc. Is. lOd. to 2s. ; mow- ing meadow hay, per acre, 3s. to 3s. 6d. ; mowing rye-grass hay per acre, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. ; reaping oats per acre, 9s. 6d. to 10s. 6d.; ploughing, harrowing, and sowing per acre, L. 1, Is. Live-stock. — The cattle kept in the parish are of the Ayrshire breed. Great attention has long been paid to their improvement. DUNLOP. 299 and perhaps nowhere is the stock more select. Some persons, en- ticed by the high prices given for fine animals, have been too much in the habit of selling the best of their young stock, but the prac- tice is far from being common. Clydesdale horses, mostly of a light description, are generally used. They are almost all bought in, very few being reared. The few sheep that are kept are of the Leicester breed. The quantity of stock in the summer of 1 835, after very minute inquiry, was found to be as follows: 178 horses, including 20 young horses; 910 milch cows; 111 cows or oxen fattening; 415 young cattle of different ages; 109 sheep; 258 pigs. Husbandry. — Oats is the grain chiefly cultivated. Almost every farmer raises barley or bear for the use of his own family, but little, if any, for sale. A few acres of wheat have for some time past been sown every year, but the success of the experiment has not been so great as to cause the cultivation of it to extend much. The land being in most places retentive of moisture, turnips are not grown tp.apy grofi^t extent; and the quantity of potatoes rais- ed, except on a few $M^ms, is not much greater than is necessary for home consumption. The mode of cropping followed iA this parish, does not coincide with any of the rotations now recommended by writers on agricul- ture. When lea is broken up, three crops of oats in succession are generally taken from it With the last crop, rye-grass is sown, most frequently without clover. The rye-grass is often allowed to ripen its seed, for the purpose of being threshed, and is thus near- ly as scourging to the land as an additional com crop. The ground is then allowed to lie in pasture for at least four or five, and some- times even for ten or twelve years, when the same course of crop- ping is again repeated. Potatoes and turnips, so far as the cul- tivation of them extends, take the place of the second crop of oats, and on a part of the ground which has borne potatoes, the wheat and barley that are raised, are sown. In some instances, only two crops of oats are taken, and this practice is gradually ex- tending. In these cases, a small field is sometimes set apart for rais- ing potatoes, turnips, barley, &c« which do not come into the ordi- nary rotation of the farm. This system of management, it may be thoXight, must tend greatly to impoverish the soil ; but, owing part- ly to its natural fertility, and partly to the pains taken to keep it in good heart, by liming and top-dressing, it is not found to sufler from it. It is a very common practice to top dress the ground with dung, 300 AYUSHIRE. soon after it has been laid down in grass, and again to lime it a year or two before it is to be ploughed up* The reason why this system of cropping, which has long since been given up in the more improved districts of the country, is persevered in here, is, that the cultivation of green crops is thought to hurt the pasture, on which the farmer places his chief dependence. It is customary here to plough with three horses. In defence of this practice, it is alleged that as much additional work is done by using three instead of two, as fully to cover the extra expense. This is very doubtful. The dairy has long been the chief object of attention in Dun- lop. Dunlop cheese has justly obtained a very high character. The cheese made here, as well as in other parts of the country, was made of skimmed milk, till about the end of the seventeenth century, when one Barbara Gilmour,* introduced the practice of using the whole milk. This practice for a time was confined to this parish and its immediate neighbourhood, but it has gradually extended to almost every part of the west and south of Scotland. All the cheese made in these districts, with unskimmed milk, still goes under the general name of Dunlop^ that being the name by which cheese of this quality was originally known. It is not now pretended that what is made here is superior to that of other places, but it is nowhere excelled. The average quantity made during the season firom each cow's milk is about 27 stones of 14 lbs. avoirdupois, or 24,570 stones from the whole parish. In some small dairies, each cow has been known to produce on an average 42 stones. A good many calves are reared every year, a part of which are kept to uphold the original stock, and the rest sold when two or three years old. Pigs are now also a source of some profit to the farmer, being kept in crty-five years. He must therefore have entered on this charge in 1563. In the ^^ register of ministers, exhorters, and readers, and of their stipends after the period of the R€drormation,**]ate]y published by the Maitland Club, there is the following entry with regard to Dunlop : *' John Hamilton, vicar and ex. horter, the thryd of the vicarage extending to xxvL IL providing he wait on his charge beltym 1567." The only way I know of reconciling this extract with what was pre- viously stated, is by supposing that John Hamilton is the same person with Hans Hamilton, Hans being only an abbreviation of Johannes. . Hans Hamilton was suc- ceeded in the charge by Hew Eglinton, who died in 1646. As the records of Pres- bytery during the time of his incumbency are lost, little is known about him. From an incidental notice in the record of the Presbytery's proceedings at a subsequent period, it appears that he was under process at the time of his death, but the cause of the process is not specified. In 1648, two years aft^r the death of Hew Eglinton, Gabriel Cunninghame was settled. He was ejected in 1663, and restored again by the indulgence of 1672, when Mr William Mein was associated with him in the charge of the parish. After this he seems to have fallen under the suspicion and displeasure of the government, for on the 2d of April 1663, he was indicted, along with some others, <^ for aiding, assisting, and corresponding with Mr John Cunninghame, late of Bedbine, a notorious traitor." Failing to appear, " he was denounced and put to the horn, and his moveable goods ordered to be escheat, and brought into his Majesty's use, as an outlaw and a fugitive.'* He is mentioned by Wodrow, as having lived till after the Revolution ; but whether he was restored to his charge before that period does not appear. He seems to have been a person of considerable eminence, and to have taken a prominent part in the de- liberations of the Presbyterian ministers in those distracted tiroes.— (Wodrow, L SA2; a5d, 437, appendix, 75, 137 : ii. 296, foUo edition.) The fi)llowing is a list of the ministers of this parish, admitted after the Revolution : John Jameson, ordained 21 si September 1692, died 1706 ; James Rowal, ordained May 1709, translated to Jedburgh September 1732; Robert Baird, ordained 2Bck March 1734, died 27th March 1756; James Wodrow, D. D., ordained 1st Septem- ber 1757, translated to Stevenston, October 1 759 ; John Fidlarton, ordained 25th September 1760, translated to Dairy, 16th March 1762; John Graham, orcbined 12th May 1763, translated to Kirkinner, SOtli June 1779 ; Thomas Brisbane, ordain^ ed 27th April 1780, died 9th May 1637 ; Matthew Dickie, admitted from Limerick, 8th May 1634, assistant and successor. The writer of this account has to acknowledge his obligations to James Dobie, Esq. Beith, for supplving him with most of the particulars respecting the ancient state of the parish, which are incidentally mentioned. DUNLOP. 305 Education. — There are at present four schools in the parish, one of which is parochial. The branches of education taught in the parish school are, English reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keep- ing, practical mathematics, and Latin. The same branches SLX,e taught in the private schools, with the exception of practical ma- thematics and Latin. The parish schoolmaster's salary is L.27, 16s. including L. 2, 2s. 9d. in lieu of garden. The school fees amount on an average to about L. 17 a year. The school-house was btiilt in the year 1641, as appears from the following inscription over the door : « 1641. ^^ This school is erected and endowed by James, Viscount Clane- boyes, in love to his parish, in which his father, Hans Hamilton, was pastor 45 years, in King James the Sixt his raigne. I^LV." It is still in pretty good repair; but though it affords to the schoolmaster what may be called legal accommodation, it does not afford such accommodation as a well-qualified teacher ought to have. If, as the inscription intimates, the school was ever en- dowed by Ijord Claneboyes, all knowledge of the scource whence the endowment was derived is now lost The rate of school fees per quarter is as follows : Pariah School, Average of Private Schools, English reading, - 28. Od. Ss. Od. Reading and writing, - 2 6 3 6 Reading, writing, and aritfamctic, 3 4 Do. Do. with Latin, 4 Practical mathematics, < 4 In this parish children are generally sent to school, when they are between five and six years of age, and kept at it, with occa- sional interruptions in seed time and harvest, till they are about thirteen. In the month of November 1834, an inquiry was made as to the number of children attending school, for the purpose of making out the returns on the state of education, ordered by the House of Commons. It was then found that 164 were at school, (all day scholars,) and that only one individual above fif- teen could not read. She had come here a few months before as a servant, and has since gone away. These circumstances suffi- ciently shew that the people in general are alive to the importance of education, and disposed to avail themselves of the opportunities of obtaining it The establishment of a school at the distance of about a mile and a half from the upper end of the parish, would .\vn. u 306 AYRSHIRE. be of very great importance to the families in that district, as the children out of a population of fiiUy 300, residing from two to four miles from the parish school, would then have the means of educa- tion within a moderate distance. Hitherto the schools in that quarter have seldom remained long in one place. A few neigh- bouring farmers have usually engaged a young lad to teach their children, some one of them providing a school-room. Whenever his family grew up, the school of course was removed to another house. Libraries. — There are two libraries ; one, called the Sabbath School Library, from having been established at first in connec- tion with a Sabbath school, contains about 260 volumes, chiefly in religious biography and practical divinity. It is open to all the parishioners gratis. The other is a subscription library, esta- blished in 1828. It now contains about 110 volumes, in general literature. Friendly Society. — A friendly society was established here about twenty-three years ago, whose object is to afford relief to sick and aged members. It has hitherto prospered. There is reason to think that it has had a good efiect in cherishing feelings of inde- pendence. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid for the last seven years is 12, and the ave- rage allowance of each during the same time L. 5, 4s. a year. In addition to their stated aliment, some of them have an allowance for fuel and house rent. The total sum expended annually has amounted on an average of seven years to L. 71, IBs. The average income for the last seven years has been L. 63, 1 7s. dd« arising from the following sources, viz. Church collections,* L. 36, 4s. lOd.; proclamations, L. 1, 7s. ; mortcloth dues, L. 1, 10s. 8d. ; interest of money formerly saved, L. 24, 14s. 9d. total, L.63» 17s. 3d. It thus appears that the expenditure has exceeded the income by L. 8, Os. 9d. a year. This deficiency has been supplied, by taking from the money at interest as much as was necessary to meet current expenses ; — a mode of supporting the poor, the pro- priety of which is very questionable. It may be proper to men- * Under the bead of church collections, are included contributions by a few non- resident heritors. They are put under this head, because they are sent by them week- ly or monthly, as collection, by the hands of some of their tenants. These contri- butions amount at present to. about L. 8, 8s, a year. DUN LOP. 307 tion, that for nearly two years past none of our accumulated mo- ney has been taken to make up deficiencies. The average num- ber of poor has not increased for many years past ; and though it has risen from eight to twelve since the date of the last Statisti- cal Account, yet this is not more than keeping pace with the in- creased population. Tliere is still a general unwillingness to be dependent on parochial aid ; although a few, who are by no means proper objects of charity, are clamorous enough. Fairs. — Two fairs for the sale of dairy stock are held annually at Dunlop,— one on the second Friday of May, old style, and the other on the 12th of November. They are both well attended. Inns^ Alehouses^ S^c, — A very respectable inn has been built at Lugton bridge, on the road from Irvine to Glasgow. Besides this there are six houses in which spirituous liquors are sold. One- half of them might, with benefit to the public, be suppressed. It is found that wherever a public-house is opened, some persons in the neighbourhood fall into dissipated tippling habits, which other- wise they might have avoided. Fuel, — Coal is the only fuel used. It is chiefly brought from the neighbourhood of Kilmarnock and Irvine. The pits at both these places are about seven' miles distant from the village, where coals can be laid down at 12s. per ton, including the expense of carriage. A pit has lately been opened in the parish of Beith, at a dis- tance of three miles from Dunlop. If the coal should prove to be of good quality, it will be of very great advantage to this part of the country. January 1836. Revised September 1837. PARISH OF DALMELLINGTON, PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR* REV. ROBERT HOUSTON, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish is called in the former Statistical Account, Damelingtoun, and the name is still retained in this form by many of the old inhabitants. The orthography, however, has not been uniform, but has passed through various unimportant changes. In its present shape, the etymology of the name can be easily traced to a very appropriate Gaelic origin, Dail^ signifying a plain, or field, or valley, and MuUeann^ a mill, with the very common affix tan ; the name will therefore signify the town of the valley of the mill, or of the mill field. Dalmellingtou is a burgh of barony. The date of its erection I have not been able to ascertain. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish, as nearly as can be es- timated, is 10 miles long, and on an average fully 3 miles broad. In the absence of any correct measurement of its surface, it may with tolerable accuracy be assumed to be 30 square miles. The boundaries of the parish are the Loch and River Doon on the south and south-west, separating it from the parish of Strai- ten in the district of Carrick ; Dalrymple parish on the west ; Ochiltree on the north ; and New Cumnock and Carsphaim, in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, on the east. Topographical Appearances. — The figure of the parish is that of an obtuse triangle, the longest side of which is the Loch and River Doon. A perpendicular from this, about half a mile above the middle of the parish, where its breadth is the greatest, and passing through the village, would measure about five miles, and termi- nate nearly at the meeting of Ochiltree and New Cumnock pa- rishes. Surface. — The upper part of the parish is formed by the termi- nation of three ranges of hills, which form ridges of varying though but moderate elevation. Two of these run nearly parallel from the march of Carsphaim, in a north and north-west direction, the one DALMELLINQTON. 309 being a continuation of the lofty ridge on ihe east side of Loch Doon, and the other rising from the foot of Cairnsmuir. The third ridge is from New Cumnock, and crosses the foot of one of the others. Its direction is nearly south-west. The lower part of the parish is nearly one entire ridge of eminences, terminating abruptly to the east, and receiving at its different elevations the names of Benwhat, Benbraniachan, and Benbeoch. The only flat land in the parish is between this ridge and the Doon. It may be a mile in breadth just below the village, and extends about three miles along the Doon, terminating in a point in both direc- tions. The hills are chiefly of easy ascent. In three places only are they for short distances precipitous. Benbeoch terminates the lower ridge to the east in a range of magnificent basaltic co^ lumns, nearly 300 feet in height, and double that extent in breadth. Along the road to Carsphairn (the Dumfries road) for fully a mile, the ridges on either side approach so near as to form a deep pass, through which there is space for only the road and a narrow stream to wind themselves. A still more precipitous pass presents itself on the other side of the extremity of the Loch Doon range, where the river issues from the loch. There, for a mile, the rocky per- pendicular precipices approach within thirty feet of each other, and at some points rise 300 feet above the bed of the river. This is a favourite resort of the tourist of the lochs. A footpath was made by a late proprietor along the south side of the river, and just about the height of its winter torrents. Its present proprie- tor, whose residence is but a few hundred yards from the foot of the glen, has contrived to beautify it as much as it^ rocky gran-» deur will admit of; but its rude natural sublimity, and the deafening dashing of the white torrent along its rocky bed, will ever remain its grand attraction, and make its minor beauties almost unknown and unheeded. This pass, which has given to it the name of the Glen of Ness, or the Craigs of Ness, is the beginning of the val- ley of the Doon, which farther down widens out into rich and ex-o tensive meadows. Looking up the valley from near the foot of the parish, the flat land presents the enclosed figure of a triangle, widening out before the eye, till it reaches the high land above the village, beyond which the mountains of Galloway close the prospect The village, which lies imbedded in a sheltered nook at the north-east corner of the meadow land, is estimated to be 400 feet above the level of the sea* The highest of the surround^ ijig hills amounts not to above 750 feet more. 310 AYRSHIRE. Meteorology. — Nothing can be said, in the absence of all regular and registered observations, of the positive temperature and pressure of the atmosphere. Without doubt it partakes of the greater cold- ness of elevated regions, and is more variable than in lo^^er districts, but no peculiar influence of it can be discovered in the distempers that occur. The inhabitants are hardy, healthy, and long-lived* It is now but a tradition that the climate was once very unhealthy, especially to children. This was charged upon a piece of marshy ground in the neighbourhood of the village. Whether the' cause of this traditionary unhealthiness may have been to be found in the marsh, and its removal in the partial draining of it, I shall not take it upon me to determine, but certain it is the diseases of children are now very rare. Croup, that enemy said to have scourged them, is seldom seen. There is not a single distemper peculiar to the district, or referable to the climate. There is occasionally a case of rheumatism, but even rheumatism, notwith- standing of the elevated situation, and the almost constant expo- sure of many of the inhabitants, is not at all prevalent The visits of epidemics are few and short. The estimated time of the return of measles, small-pox, &c is from seven to ten years. Hydrography, — The springs in the parish are all perennial. Their temperature varies little from that of the atmosphere. They flow chiefly from beds of sand and gravel, and are pure. There are a few chalybeate springs in the neighbourhood. There is a small loch, named Loch Muck, scarce a mile from the south-east boundary of the parish. Its waters are dark, and of considerable depth. Its form is that of a crescent, and its ex- tent between twenty and thirty acres. It lies in the middle of a heathy muir, and abounds in black trout. Another sheet of water, about double the extent, has received the name of the Bogton Loch. It is formed by the spreading out of the Doon, over a piece of low land, about two miles below its source. It is fertile in reeds, and forms a favourite haunt of the water-fowl. The only river worth notice is the far-famed Doon, — all others are but little streams, although occasionally in winter they ap- proach the river size. The Doon, which separates the d^- tricts of Kyle and Carrick, flows out of the loch of the same name. Its exit from the loch is by two tunnels cut out of the solid rock, and protected by sluices, by which the discharge of water is regulated. Its direction during its course along the bounds of this parish is north-west. Its whole length may be 18 DALMELLINGTON. 3 1 1 miles ; its breadth 40 feet ; its depth varies considerably, being from 2 to t^O feet. Except when dashing through the Glen of Ness, its course is through an almost level meadow, where it forms nearly one continued pool of deep dark water. Its temperature is much the same as that of the atmosphere. In its course through the parish, it receives the additional waters of several small streams, by which its frequent overflowings are chiefly occasioned, and dis- charges itself into the sea about two miles south of Ayr. Geology. — The chief of the rocky materials of the parish are graywacke and sandstone, chiefly of the coal formation. For three miles from the head of the parish, and across all its breadth, no- thing is visible but the graywacke, which extends into Galloway. The remaining seven miles are sandstone, in seams of various thicknesses, with everywhere an abundance of coal, and occasion- ally lime and ironstone. The only exception to the universality of this statement, is in the case of the higher part of the ridge termi- nated by the basaltic columns of Benbeoch, already mentioned. This trap range is evidently of igneous origin, and cuts ofi* the coal field of the parish, which is upon the south edge of the great coal valley of the lowlands, from the more extensive tract which pro- ceeds through the northern part of the county to Renfrew and La- narkshire. The efiects of the eruption of the basalt by which this ridge has been produced are manifest in the disturbed state of the incumbent strata. Where the sandstone has been exposed, it ex* hibits a succession of thin layers of blue clay and coal alternating with it, with, in the lower formations, an occasional stratum of the softer kind of common argillaceous schist. The direction and dip of the strata exhibit almost every variety. The sandstone varies chiefly in the direction, and the graywacke in the dip. The dip of the sandstone and its accompanying strata in the lower ridge of hills, as seen in the coal-pits at the extremities of it, is 1 foot in 6 or 7. At the south-east end, the direction is nearly west, whereas at the other it is north-east In the sandstone above the village, the dip is 6 feet in 11, and the direction north- west The graywacke that succeeds it, in going south-east, dips in the opposite direction, and varies greatly on opposite sides of the little stream that divides the two ridges ; on the south-west side, be- ing .as much as 4 feet in 1, and nearly uniform, — ^whereas on the north-east side it varies, and is no more than from 3 feet in 4, to 4 in 3. The bed is nowhere exposed between the graywacke and sandstone, to enable one to discover what rock separates them. 312 AYRSHIRE. About half a-mile below the village, is the morass mentioned in the former report. It is 150 acres of peat resting on a spongy bot>- tom. Several oaks have been found imbedded in it Two of a considerable size are just now exposed, about 6 inches below the surface, in crossing a ditch. They measure respectively 3 feet and 3^ feet in diameter. Others were found nearer the village thirty years ago. The soil along the river side is chiefly a deep loam. Upon the hill sides, in the lower half of the parish, it is a wet clayey loam rest- ing on sandstone, and terminating at the back of the ridge, in a broad moss extending for miles into Ochiltree parish. The up- per part of the parish is chiefly a light dry soil, with a few patches of peat resting on the graywacke rocL The ordinary plants are common grass and^y. There is some heath upon the high lands to the south-east, but it is every year lessening in extent The coal-pits have been many, — especially in low situations, where till lately the coal was worked at less than 3 fiithoms from the sur- face. The pits at present in operation are two ;— one, the Cam- larg pit, about a mile from the village, is nearly 20 fathoms deep. Two seams of coal are there worked together, the lower seam 3 feet deep, and the higher 22 inches. They are separated by 16 inches of a black soft stufi* the colliers very appropriately deno* minate dirt Immediately above and below the coal, is freestone mixed with coal.* The other pit is about five miles distant at the foot of the parish, and is worked by a steam-engine. The following is an official re- port of the depth, &c. of it : Blue clay, 66 feet ; freestone, 70 feet ; smithy coal, 3 feet ; fire clay, 1 foot ; hard fire-coal, 8 feet ; fire-clay, 4 feet ; hard fire-coal, 4 feet ; total, 156 feet Zoology. — The wild animals are such as are the ordinary inha- bitants of mountain districts, and which are carefully specified in the game acts. Black game have been abundant for the last twenty * The manner of raising the coals from this pit deserves notice and imitation also» where similar fiicilities are possessed. The pit is dug in the side of a hill, and has the direction of a small stream turned to its mouth. It is divided into two square com- partments, to which water-tight boxes, partly open above, are fitted, and upon which the coal creeb are placed. The full cre^s are raised by running a sufficient quantity of water into the box at the top, upon which the empty creel is placed. The water escapes from the box by a valve in the bottom of it. This valve is opened by an iron peg fitted to it, striking against a stone at the bottom of the pit, and the water runt off into a level or tunnel to the stream at the foot of the hill. The nxotion is regulated by means of a lever pressed upon the wheel over which the rope passes. The appa- ratus is the simplest and safest possible, is managed with the greatest ease^ and has worked most successfully. DALMELLINGTON. 313 years. Wild ducks abound in the Bogton loch, and frequently tempt the eagle from the Star mountains to a comfortable meal. That beautiful little bird the teal also frequents the loch. The loch is also adorned from October to March with flocks of wild swans, which make it their resting-place duringthe winter. The bittern, commonly called from its ominous sound, the bull of the bog, was in former days also to be found on the loch. Foxes were wont to be very abundant in the parish. Certain caves, formed by the fallen co- lumns of Benbeoch, afforded them strong hiding-places, whence they issued, and committed frightful havoc among the flocks and poultry. By dint of persevering efforts they were entirely extir- pated ; but within these two or three years, certain stray ones have reached the old abodes. Botany. — The rarest plants noticed in this parish are the fol- lowing : Affrostis pumilaf Holcus mollis^ Melica uniflora^ Fextuca viviparoj Scirpus setaceus^ Gnaphaltum syhaticunty NymphiFa albOf Solidago mrgaurea^ Stachys ambigtiaj Saxifraga hypnoides. On Benbeoch is found abundance of the beautiful Cryptogramma crispa^ and in the Glen of Ness the Polypodium dryopterisy As^ plenium viride and Trichomanesy Aspidium lobatum^ and ,3. lonchi" tidoideSf Hymenophyllum Wiboniy are frequent ; and also, in beau- tiful fructification, abundance of the Neckera crispa and Hook-- eria lucens. IL — Civil History. The most ancient account of parish transactions is to be found in the session-records. The first date of them is 7th March 1641. For twenty-one years they were exceedingly well kept, and very voluminous, and again for the same period at the beginning of the last century ; and give a striking picture of the times in the acts embodied in them, and the vigilance and extent of the discipline they bear to have been exercised. * For a century after the last date, * A session of these ancient days would have shamed the scanty muster of modern times. The list of session in 1641 is given at the beginning of the record. It was made up of the minister* fourteen elders, four deacons, and the clerk» to whom seem to have been added at a future period other two elders and four deacons. And this in a parbh in which in 1755 there were but 739 itihabitants. The following ex* tracts will shew the style and character of ecclesiastical enactments in these days. The following is of date 21st March 1641, and is intituled **• Act anent Egyptians:" ^* The qlk day it was enacted, yt if any within the sd parochoune sal resett or enter- tein any vagabounde, especially those who be called Egyptians, they sal pav of penalty 6 lib." The following *< Act anent Sabbatt breaking** is also of the same date. " The qlk day it was also enacted, that if any sould be fund absent from the kirk upoun the Lord's day, or any other way be prophaning the same, that they sould stand in the public place of repentance, and pay of penalty ane mk.** Standing in tackchtt was then ordained by the presbytery against delinquents, who had been referred to its 314 AYRSHIRE. there is little record of session proceedings^ The register of births and marriages begins at the same date, and, except during ^^ the time of the curate," as the last period of the Episcopacy is usually designated, all the records of which are a few scarce readable en- tries of baptisms, it has been, with little interruption, well kept to the present day. This parish bore its full share of the hardships of the times of persecution* The traditionary records of these times are by no means scanty ; but a narrative still more full and better authenti- cated will be found in Wodrow* He gives the history of this parish as a specimen of what was generally practised, and says, ^^ Had materials come to my hand as distinctly from the rest of the country as from this parish, what a black view we might have had." He details minutely the great number of troops frequently quartered upon the people. In 1678 they had 900 Highlanders quartered upon them ; a number which, judging from the earliest census we possess, was more than the whole population of the pa- rish. As a specimen of the fines levied for worshipping in inter- dicted places, he gives a list of ten individuals who had to pay, in the portions severally specified, 600 merks and 260 lib. for hear- ing a sermon in the chapel in Straiten parish. And this besides the imprisonment of some of them, and the dispersing of the family, and the plundering of the house of one who did not appear. Wodrow quotes frequently and at great length from the diary of Quintin Dick, an inhabitant of this parish, who bore a prominent part both in the sufferings and in the doings of these days. In such exciting times he was a remarkable instance of sound judg- ment, steadfiist principle, and moderation. After much suffering, and a long imprisonment in Dunottar Castle, he providentially escaped banishment to the Plantations, to which he had been sen- judgment. We apprehend that the churvh, upon its re-establishment after the Re- volution, found society in a sadly disorganized state,—- for the session records, for some time subsequent to that date, show the exercise of a yery strict discipline over all kinds of offenders. Drunkenness, pro&ne swearing, and **• Sabbatt breaking,*' were resolutely rebuked and repressed. All unnecessary work which might be conveniently done on the Saturday, such as ** cutting of kail and carrying in of water," were pro- hibited. Two elders in their turn searched the town, and looked after strollers in the fields during divine service. A week day service was maintained, and it was en- acted on the 26th October 170A, « That there should be no market keeped, by sell- ing of meal and other commodities in time of Divine service upon the week day." No drinking was permitted in public-houses on any night after the ringing of the belL One extract more, strikingly indicative of the interest in all beneficial undertakings, Che Kirk of Scotland has ever taken. On the 16th May 1658, a collection was mi^e for *' the harbour of Kirkadie, the bridge of Carsphairne, and the kirk of Kirkbride." ' The sum collected was *^ 7 lib. 2s. 4d. ;" of which *' 4 lib.'* was given to Kirkadie* ** 3 lib.'* to Carsphairne, and the remaioder to Kirkbride* DALMELLINGTON. 315 tenced ; and returned to his house in peace. We find hioi after- wards employed in endeavouring to heal the differences which separated the Presbyterian brethren. Land'owners. — The Hon. Colonel and Mrs Macadam Cathcart of Craigengillan, who reside at Berbeth, just without the border of the parish, possess nearly the whole of the parish. Antiquities. — The sites of two castles are pointed out; — one, a few hundred yards above the village, which, from a traditionary story of its occupant, is still spoken of as Dame Helen's Castle, has been a small building. One of the oldest houses in the village, from having been built of the materials of the castle, is called the Castle House, and on one of its door lintels bore, thirty years ago, the date 1003. The village seems to have been originally a dependency of this castle, — for closely overhanging the village, and between it and the castle, is a most complete moat of considerable height ; one of those primitive courts whence laws were promulgated, and where the justice of these days was administered. The land be- tween the castle and the moat still bears the name of the Castle Crofts, and at a little distance from thence is the Gillies Kiwwe, The other castle has been a more considerable structure, and must have been from its situation, literally a place of strength, — and security also. The site of it is a projecting point on a deep glen side, quite precipitous, or raiher overhanging, on three sides ; the fourth side has had the usual protection of a foss^. From some traditionary connection with the history of Alpine, the 68th King of the Scots, it is called Leight, or Laght Alpine. In Chalmers's Caledonia, notice is taken of a Roman road which passed through the length of this parish from south-east to north- west. The line of it has been traced through Dumfries and Kirkcudbright shires. The last remains of it in this parish, on the farm of Burnhead, were raised seven years ago to repair some dikes, which had formerly been built of the whinstone of which the road was formed. It had been from ten to eleven feet broad, composed of a row of large stones on either side, and filled up with smaller between. Leaving Dalmellington it entered Dalrymple, where it has been traced in various places, and terminated at a ford in the River Ayr, not a great distance above the town. We have farther evidence that this was a great thoroughfare of the Romans, in the correctness with which the course of the Doon^ the only river in Ayrshire, there laid down, is traced in Ptolemy's Geography of Britain. There is a strong probability that Dal- 316 AYRSHIRE. melliDgton was a Roman station ; the Corda which Dr Henry sets down upon the Ayr at Cumnock. The Gaelic etymology of the name agrees also entirely with the appearance of the place, cor- responding to the first portion of its modern appellation. There have been three considerable cairns or heaps of loose stones in the parish, all above the village. One of these immense heaps, about half amile to the east-south-east, on the top of a little hill, measured about 1 15 yardsin circumference. Thematerialsof it were, a few years ago, applied by the present occupant of the land to the more useful purpose of building dikes. There were found under it several graves covered with flat stones, and containing dry hu~ man bones. Sometime before, another about a mile from it, in a valley, was applied to the same purpose. Under it also were found graves and bones. Some remains of a third, called the White Cairn of Camannock, have been left in the middle of the moor, about half a mile from the head of the parish, and as far to the south, west of the Galloway road. It is said to mark the spot where the chiefs of one party were buried, after some severe conflict of ancient days ; and tradition farther says the slain of the opposite party were buried under a similar cairn, some miles farther on, in the farm of Holm, in the parish of Carsphairn. HI. — Population. In the year 1755, . 739 1791, . 681 1831, in the Tillage, 708 country, 348 1056 1837, - 1126 Yearly average of births for seven years previous to 1831, . . 281^ deaths for do. ..... 19^ marriages for do. . . . . 10^ Number under 16 years of age, . . . 442 betwixt 15 and 30, . . . . 222 30 and 50, . . . . .240 50 and 70, . . . . . 107 upwards of 70, . . . .45 There are three proprietors of land of the yearly value of upwards of L. 50. Number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers upwards of 50 years of age, 28 women upwards of 45, . • .59 Average number of children in a family, .... 3^* In the course of the last three years there were 6 illegitimate births in the parish. The climate has its certificate of salubrity in the appearance of the people. Theyhayebeen for years areading people. Among them I have reason to know there are many who read to profit in the things * This is said of children residing with their parents, not of the whole number bom^ DALMELLINGTON. 317 that belong to their everlasting peace, and who fear God, " speaking often one to another." Such a cause cannot but operate, to some extent at least, for good. Accordingly the attendance on religious ordinances is for the most part regular and decent. There is much propriety of conduct, and a growing disposition to discountenance the profligate and unprincipled. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Number of acres cultivated or occasionally in tillage, - 1,904 that never have been cultivated, * • 173^6 that might profitably be cultivated, - 1,1^ in a state of undivided common, - - 277 under wood, about .... 750 The plantations are chiefly larch and Scotch fir, which appear to suit the climate well. There are a few ashes, birches, and saughs, indigenous. So far, the plantations seem to be under good management. Rent ��� The rent of arable land cannot be correctly given. The arable land is but a small portion of the parish, and is chiefly made up of a few fields in the lower and more sheltered parts of the va- rious stock-iarms, — but if let together, it might be worth 1 5s. per acre. The average rent of grazing is L. 3 per full-grown cow, and 3s. per ewe or full-grown sheep. Prices. — A one-horse box-cart and wheels, with iron axle, is bought for from L.8 to L. 9; srcart and plough harness, L. 3 to L. 4 per set; an iron plough from L. 3, 10s. to L. 4, 10s ; a wood plough, L. 2 ; harrows mounted from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2 per pair. Live-Stock. — The common breed of sheep is the black-faced. A few Cheviot and Leicester have lately been introduced. The cows are Ayrshire. These form the chief stock of the parish, with some Galloway and Highland stots and heifers. The management of them is well understood. Of late years a considerable deal more land has been brought under cultivation than formerly, for the im- provement of the pasture. Lime is abundant, and near at hand, which enables this system to be pursued profitably ; and with it has considerably increased the amount of dairy slock. One en- terprising tenant (Captain Walker in Bellsbank) has in this way improved, or has in process of improvement, 400 acres, and lately furrow-drained about forty acres. Encroachments have also been made upon the moss-land successfully, by spade husbandry, be- ginning with potatoes in lazy beds. The general duration of leases of late has been seven years. 318 AYRSHIRE. The practice of landlords, and the voice of the tenantry seem to be at variance on the subject of the effects of such a system. I shall not attempt to decide the point, though I may be allowed to remark, that the tenants who have shewn the greatest enterprise in improvement, and expended most liberally, have their farms on leases of nineteen years. The enclosures are, in general, in good condition and abundant* The farm-steadings in some cases are not remarkable for comfort, though in this respect considerable improvement has been made of late years. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, — i^nia, afanodt wholly oats, 1 100 quarters at L. 1, Is., - L. 1155 Green crop, chiefly potatoes, 81 acres at L. 8, - - 648 Hay, chiefly meadow, .... 1800 Sheep, 8000 pastured, 4s. each, - - - 1600 Cows,270at L.4, 10s., .... 1215 • Heifers, &c., 440 at L. 2, - - - - 880 Coals, ..... 1441 L. 8739 Mantifactitres. — The chief manufactures of the village are wool- spinning, and the weaving of plaiding, tartan, and carpets. There are two small woollen mills, employing together about thirty hands. The yarn spun in the largest was wont to be disposed of wholly to the Kilmarnock carpet-manufacturers ; but four years ago, the proprietor of the mill added to it -also a carpet manufactory, where he has now eight looms constantly at work. The yarn spun in the other mill is also manufactured on the spot, into blankets, plaids, and packing-cloth, &c. There are about forty weavers, besides, in the village, the greater number of whom are occupied with tartans'; a few weave cotton cloth, and a few are customer weavers, t. e. weavers of home-spun yam. There was wont to be a bleachfield of some extent on the farm of Dounieston, at the foot of the parish, — the increased importations of Irish linen, and the extensive substitution of cotton goods for home manu&cture, gradually lessened its employment, and for two years it has been given up. The premises were last year converted into a thread- mill, which has been for some time in active operation. Those in the mills work ten hours a-day : the weavers' days and hours are regulated entirely by their inclination or their ne- cessities ; but, being industrious, I apprehend their six days may average twelve hours each. At this rate of labour their earnings may average Is. 6d. per day. DALMELLINGTON. 319 Nothing injurious to health or morals can be charged against the employments of those engaged in manufactures* The purity of the atmosphere efiFectually neutralizes any bad effects of the sedentary habits of the weaver upon his health ; and the mills are not of such extent, as, by the numbers they congregate, to seduce the minds of the young from the simplicity of rural life. V. — Parochial Economt. Market^Tovms, — The market-town the easiest of access, though not the nearest, is Ayr. The distance to it is fifteen miles and a quar- ter. The only village in the parish is that which bears its name. It is a penny-post to Ayr, from which a foot-post comes on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and returns on the alternate days. There are two turnpike roads in the parish, — the Ayr and Dum- fries road, which passes through the extreme length, — and another which crosses it at the village. Means of Communication. — The means of communication enjoy- ed by the parish are abundant We have the benefit of the Ayr and Dumfries coach going one way or the other, each day ; another conveyance to and from Ayr on market days, with carriers also on the same days, and weekly carriers to Glasgow, Dumfries, and Gis- tle Douglas. The bridges are abundant, and chiefly in good repair. There are six over the Doon, and nearly double that number over the smaller streams, sufficiently large to admit a heavy flood. It was not, however, always so. One bridge over the Doon is one hundred and sixteen years old, another over the Muck is about sixty ; and I believe the first roads in the parish are of nearly as recent a date. The fences are chiefly dry stone walls, abundant and in good condi* tion. The hedges around the village are thriving and neatly kept. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is as conveniently situated as it could be, to suit the population. It is in the village, and about five miles from each extremity of the parish. It was built in 1766, but, though of no great age, from the dampness of the site, it is exceedingly uncomfortable ; and, for both comfort and ac- commodation, it is ripe for rebuilding. It is seated for 442, firom which there have to be deducted 36 sittings, the private property of, and occupied by, an heritor in a neighbouring parish, leaving for the parish 406 sittings, of which 47 are free. The manse was built in J 798. It underwent a thorough re- pair in 1833, and an addition is at present being built to it The glebe measures about 10 acres ; and is worth L. 2 per acre. The stipend is L. 1 12, Os. 8d. including L. 8. 6s. 8d. for communion 320 AYRSHIRE. elements; fifty merks Scots besides are paid to the College of Glas- gow, All attend the parish church, whether churchmen or Dis- senters, except seven Reformed Presbyterians, about as many more who care for neither sanctuary nor Sabbath, and a family or two of Irish Papists. There are but eleven individuals Dissenters in the parish, be- sides the Papists. The attendance at church is very regular. The number of communicants at the Established Church is 465. The contributions for religious and charitable purposes are made by collections in the church, and average about L. 8 yearly. Education. — There are four schools in the parish,-— one paro- chial, one partially endowed, and two others, one of them a female school, unendowed. The branches taught in three of the schools are English and English grammar, writing, arithmetic, mathematics, book- keeping, Latin and Greek. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodation and the maximum salary. The endowment of the second school consists of school and dwelling-house, with garden, coals, and L. 10 of salary, given by the Honourable Colonel Mac- adam Cathcart, during his pleasure. Peculiar circumstances pre- vent at present any estimate of the amount of fees. The girls in the female school are taught English, writing, and needle-work. The children are sent to school early, and are usually kept at it as long as the circumstances of their parents will admit. Except in one direction, there are but two or three families beyond two miles and a-half from the village, and there none are beyond the same distance from a school in the village of Patna, in Straiton parish. Library. — There is a subscription library in the parish. It was established in 1823, and now contains upwards of 800 volumes. It is indebted to Colonel Cathcart and others for some handsome donations of books, but is chiefly supported by its own funds. There are at present about 60 subscribers ; the annual subscription is 4s. There is a reading-room, for the establishing and support of which, property and money to a considerable amount, besides a li- brary of 600 volumes, were left by a shopkeeper in the village, who died a few years ago. Any surplus yearly income to be ap» plied for the education of poor children. Savings Bank. — A savings bank was established in the parish in May 1834. The amount of deposits remaining at the end of DALMELLINGTON* 321 last year was between L. 200 and L^ 300. The deposits have stea-> dily increased from the beginning, and from the classes of persons who, it is desirable, should take the benefit of the institution. They are chiefly young workmen and servants. Poor oTid Parochial Funds* — The number of persons receiving regular aid is 14. They receive on an average 5s. Id. per calen^ dar month. Several others receive occasional relief. The annual expense amounts to about L. 70, of which about L. 30 is made up of collections at the church doors, and the small addition of a part of the dues of proclamation. The balance of the expenditure is liberally supplied by Colonel Cathcart. I am sorry to have to tes- tify the lowering of the ancient spirit of independence in many, with reference- to receiving parish relief. I remark if, not so much in the poor themselves, as in their relations, who are anxious to be rid of the burden of them, by ^^ flinging them on the session." The olden spirit is not, however, wholly banished ; there are yet some specimens of the honest and commendable independence of spirit^ which will rather doubly toil, if any degree of possible exertion can eke out a scanty pittance. Fairs. — There were wont to be monthly cattle markets and feirs held here, but new arrangements among the cattle-dealers have abolished the market, and reduced the fairs to three, which are held on Pastern's E'en, the first Friday after Whitsunday, and Hallow E'en, all old style. The chief business transacted at them is concerning wool, and feeing servants. InnSf Sfc, — There are 8 inns and public houses in the parish,-^ seven of these in the village, supported to a considerable extent by the visitants, during the fishing-season, to Loch Doon. But even for the accommodation of these parties, or for profit to the inn- keepers themselves, or advantage to the community, they are too many by a half. Fkiel. — Fuel is in great abundance, and very cheap. Very few peats are used. One of the coal pits at present worked is but about a mile from the village, and there they are had for about 3& per ton of 20 cwt Miscellaneous Observations. Those who saw the parish, forty years ago, speak of the great improvement in its cultivation. It was then the practice to turn up any patch that might be conceived capable of yielding a scanty crop for a year, without any assistance of lime or manure, and it was left to return to its native wildness again. Draining was AYR. X 322 AYRSHIRE. scarce even thought of. No attempt was made to rear artifi* cial grasses ; it was conceived they would not grow* Only within these thirty years or so, has lime been applied to the soil, and grasses sown. A complete contrast in the facilities of communi- cation is also spoken of. The roads were rough and rudely formed, literally ^' over the mountain and over the moor." The streams were without bridges ; and a winter torrent could, in half an hour, fix the inhabitants of a district within their proper boundaries. The industry of the parish has had its rise and fall since the publication of the former Report The woollen manufactory then projected was established, and gave a new impetus to, and enlarged the extent of, the staple business, — plaiding and tartan manufacturing. But the English blanketing and cotton cloths' have lessened the demand fi>r plaidings, and the Bannockbum manuEeu^turers have got nearer the market for tartans. The chief improvements in agriculture of which the land seems capable would be the extension of furrow- drainbg, — much of the soil being wet, and upon a retentive sub- soil ; — and the following out of the system so successfully pursued, of liming the land capable of cultivation, cropping it for two years, and sowing it down for permanent pasture. The extension of plan- tations in clumps and stripes for shelter would farther contribute much to benefit both stock and crop, and to ornament the appear- ance of the country. September 1837. PARISH OF AUCHTNLECK. PBJESBYTBRY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AKD AYR. THE REV. JAMES CHRYSTAL, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Auchinlbck is said to be derived from two Celtic words signifying « the field of the flag-stones.'' Whatever may be the origin of the name, there is certainly a great abundance of freestone in the parish, though not altogether of that description implied in the name. Extent and Boundaries. — The form of the parish is exceedingly inconvenient, being about 16 miles from east to west, and not more AUGHINLECK. 323 than 2 miles on an average in breadth. It contains about IQ^OOO acres. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Mauchline, Sorn, and Muirkirk ; on the east by Muirkirk and Crawfordjohn ; on the south by Kirkconnel, New Cumnock, and Old Cumnock ; and on the west by Ochiltree. Topographical Appearances, — There is nothing very remarkable in the appearance of the parish. It is on the whole a cold and bleak district, particularly towards the east, and, lying in a high and exposed situation, is by no means distinguished for its fertility. Airds Moss occupies the centre of it for about four miles on its eastern boundary, — which tends to give it an aspect of barrenness in that direction ; but further to the south, and especially on the banks of one or two streams which traverse the countrv, there are a number of farms which produce fair crops of oats, and in some few cases also of turnips. The more westerly part of the parish is al- most wholly cultivated, and has a greater appearance of fertility, from being better clothed with wood, and from the farms being more numerous and better enclosed. The soil, however, here is generally composed of a cold, stiff clay, which requires constant liming or manuring to produce a tolerable crop, and which is very apt to sour, from the frequent rains which fall upon it, and lie up- on its surface. The holm lands are very productive. Glenmore is a wild valley of 5 or 6 miles in extent Meteoroloffy and Hydrography. — In common with the rest of the parishes which lie so near the western coast, this parish is much visited by rain, and the prevalence of the south-west wind makes the climate damp. From the peculiar direction, however, in which the ranges of the hills run, it perhaps, on the whole, enjoys drier weather than some of the neighbouring parishes. The principal streams connected with the district are the rivers Ayr and Lugar. They are nearly similar in size, and ultimately unite about a mile below the extremity of the parish. The for- mer, afler flowing through a great part of the parish of Muirkirk, forms the boundary between it and Auchinleck for a short distance, and then enters the parish of Som. The Lugar is formed by the junction of two smaller streams, and forms the boundary between Cumnocktod Auchinleck for 5 miles, and between Auchinleck and Ochiltree for about 2 miles. Geology. — There is a great variety of minerals. Sandstone is abundant, and of different qualities. Lime has long been wrought as well as coal, and there is an extensive field of ironstone toward 324 AYRSHIRE. Muirkirk* A small bed of iron ore is found on the farm of Bog- head, and at Gasswater there is an excellent description of fire clay. A course of mineral water runs through the same farm of Boghead, and that of Waltrees, which petrifies moss, and there is another of a similar kind at Cubbs Craigs, which is said to ha?e produced masses upwards of a ton weight. Soil — The soil is various. In the lower part of the parish, it is generally of a stiff clay with a cold impenetrable bottom. In wet weather, therefore, while it retains too much moisture, in drier seasons its natural tendency is to become very hard. Thegreat point in this soil is to get quit of the surface water. In other parts, the soil is lighter and warmer, and not unfrequently it has been re- claimed from the surrounding moss. Woods. — Though the general character of the parish may be bleakness, it is by no means universally so. There are consider- able plantations in several parts of it, and more particularly in the neighbourhood of the . House at Auchinleck, where there is not only a great extent of younger wood, but many trees of great age and size. There is also a quantity of wood in the parks around Dumfries House, which, though itself in Cumnock parish, has a part of its demesne in Auchinleck. XL — Civil History. EminentMen^ (J-c. — This parishhas acquired celebrity from being the residence of James Boswell, Esq. author of the " Life of John- son." Johnson accompanied his friend to Auchinleck on his re- turn from the " Journey in the Hebrides ;" and it appears from one of his published letters that he had intended to write a history of the Auchinleck family. Several of the members of this family have been distinguished men. The following is the account of their connection with Ayrshire, as it is given in the Life of John- son : — " In the year 1504, the barony or manor of Auchinleck, in Ayrshire, which belonged to a family of the same name with the lands, having fallen to the Crown by forfeiture, James the Fourth, King of Scotland, granted it to Thomas Boswell, a branch of an ancient family in the county of Fife, styling him in the char- ter, ' dilecto familiari nostro,' and assigning as the cause of the grant, * pro bono et fideli servitio nobis prestito.' Thomas Bos- well was slain in battle, fighting along with his sovereign at the fatal field of Flodden." The Laird of Auchinleck (who was pro- bably one of the Auchinlecks of that Ilk) accompanied Sir Wil- liam Wallace to Glasgow, along with Wallace of Richardtown AUCHINLECK. 325 and James Cleland, when Sir William slew Earl Percy, and put the English to rout. William Murdoch, of the house of Bolton and Watt, to wHom the country is so much indebted for his usefiil application of gas, was a native of this parish. Mr M'Gavin, the author of the Protestant, was likewise bom in it. Wallace of Wallacetoun was once a family of considerable importance in this district, but they now are unconnected with it by property. Land-Hmmers. — The principal land-owners are, Sir James Bos* well, Bart, who possesses nearly two-thirds of the valued rental ; the Marquess of Bute ; and Mr Limond of Dalblair ; besides whom there are eight other proprietors. Parodiial Registers. — Previous to the appointment of the pre- sent schoolmaster, these were not very regularly kept; and they go no farther back than to about the beginning of last century. Antiquities. — There is an old castle at Auchinleck, which is very much dilapidated, but which, from its situation, must have been a place of great strength. The date of its erection is un- known ; there are, however, several legends regarding its history : Near it, is the old House or Place of Auchinleck. Here, and indeed both up and down the stream, in the neighbourhood of which it stands, the scenery is remarkably fine, — the rocks on its banks being in many places about 100 feet in height, and the whole finely shrouded in wood. There are two or three bridges connecting various parts of the grounds ; and one in particular is very grand, being built across a deep ravine, and commanding a beautiful view of the picturesque rivulet which runs below. The present houBe stands on a more elevated situation, at a consider- able distance from the old one, and is a handsome Grecian struc- ture built by Lord Auchinleck. There is another old castle in the upper part of the parish, called Kyle Castle, the property of the Marquess of Bute. Very little of it remains ; and there seems to be no trace whatever of its history. It is situate in a seques- tered district, on an elevated tongue of land, near the junction of the Gelt and Glenmore waters. At Dornal, also, there are some few remains of what seems at one period to have been a place of strength. Near the head of Airds Moss, is to be seen the monument erect- ed to the memory of Richard Cameron, who. was here overtaken and slain by the dragoons, on the 20th of July 1680. It consist- ed till lately of a flat stone with his own name, and the names of the other individuals who were slain along with him, inscribed up- 326 AYRSHIRE. on it A more conspicuous memorial of bis life and •> 1 8| Breadth between orbits, - - 10| Distance between the tips of the horns measured by the skuU, • - • 11 10 Do. in straight line across, - - 2 Length of each bom, - • 5 9 Greatest breadth of palm, - - 2 9 Circumference of the beam at the root of the brow antler, 1 Of Diameters of orbit, • - - The other head appears to have belonged to a variety of Bos taurusy the forehead being concave. It measures ten inches be* tween the horns, and 13^ inches round the bole of the horn* Horns of the Cervus elephas were also found. Amongst the shells in the marl I have only observed specimens of Limnea and P&:- norbis. Zoology, — The rarer animals are marine, as will be seen by the following list, chiefly made up of those found on the sea coast. Mafhtnalia, Alcedo ispida Trigla Hirundo Mustda erminea Sterna minuta latris Avea. Reptilea. Labnis Bidanus Otus brachiotus Bufo Rubeta Crenilabrus Tinea Caprimulgus Europeus PUces. Crtutacea. Bombycilla garrula Sparus aurata Palinurus quadricornis Otis tarda Zieus Falwir AYR. Z Drummellanr upecimen. Ft. In. 1 11 m 10 4 7 5 5 2 7 1 14 2jby24 354 AYRSHIRE. Moliusca. Loligo media Octopus oetopodia Cavolina per^rina Eolida purpurascens Pieurobranohus plumula Anomia Aculeata AniteUdc9. Nerais irioolor Aphrodita aculeata Polynoe laeris Siffalion Mathildxe Cirrhatulua fuaeeiceni Syllis (ulgurans Phyllodoce laminosa TerebeUa Medusa XadUUa. Actiuia dianthus ■ ▼iridis Holothufia pellucida Comatula Uarbata Rhizostotna undulata Cassiopea lunulata Zoophffla. Halichondria panicea I suberica Berenicea eoocinea Cdryna squamata ' glandule An eyry of the falcon or game hawk is found annually on the Heads of Ayr. The motions of the birds over the diffs are extreme- ly beautiful, and they have been much prised for the purposes of falconry. It is said that some birds, as the common goldfinch for example, have become much less numerous, in consequence of the increased cultivation of the country. The following shell-fish, important in an economical point of view, are found upon the coast, but, with the exception of the first, are very scarce : Mytilns edtdUy Ostrea edulisj Cardium edtde, Pecten maximua. • Botam/* — The field for botanical research is extensive and di- versified. Several miles of a rocky coast, an extensive tract of light dry land, a hilly range of some miles in length, with marshes and heaths on the surface, and a series of fresh water lochs and meadows, afford a great variety of localities and a number of rare plants. Mr James Smith of Monkwood, whose labours have en- riched the catalogue of our Scottish species, has examined all these localities, and I have been chiefly indebted to him for the following list, several of which have been discovered and named by himself. The list might have been greatly extended, but it will be obvious that even it embraces many plants which cannot be considered as rare. They are arranged according to the Lin- nean system, and the localities are added. Veronica anapllis, Auohendrane Mill. Utricularia minor, MiUhill Moss. Fida agrigata, Jamas Smith on Caniek^ Solanum nigrum, sand on Dunure shore Samolus valerandi, wet rocks do. Ugustieum Scoticum, DundulT shore. Oenanthe pimpinelkiidcs, salt marsh on do Conyolvulus Soldanella, sea shore. Allium yineale, above Dunure CasUe. Scilla verna, Dunure. Aoorus Calamus, Laigh Culsean Meadows. Rumex Palustris, marshes sea shore. shore, BramerhilL Festuca bromoides, Millhill. Radlola Miliegrana. Centunculus minimus, near Monkwood. Atropa Belladonna, Dunure CasUe. Lithospermum maritimum, near do. Cynoglossum officinale. Castle Rock over Alisma natans, Millhill Moss. the Sea. A. ranunculoides, do. Folemonium eaBrakum, old road over Paris quadrifolia, Carrick-hill. Pvrola media, rosd near Pennj^en. Lobelia Dortmanna, water on top of Cnrvsosplenium altemifolium. Brae. Carrick-hill. Sazi^aga aiaoides, rocks Dunduff shore. Viola lactea, Knockover. — — granulata, High Smiston. Verbascum Thapsus, Dunure shore. Stcllaria nemorum, Monkwood. MAYBOLE. 3f>5 SteHaria seapigera, do. Hypericum hirsutum, BowerhiU. Cotyledon umbilicus, shore at Dunure Soncbus oleraceus, common. Castle. *) These vetysingu- , SperguU aaginoides, Carrick-hilL - laoerum, I lar species or va- Euphorbia exigua, Fields above Dunure — — montanum, > rieties quite dif- Castle. ...^...-..» maritinHim» I ferent plants. J. Pyrus Arta» abore rocka at Dunure. J Smith. Rubus suberectus, Braew Cichorium Intybus, blairston and near — ■ ■■- eorjiilblius, near Monkwood. Maybole. sazatilis, do. Bidens cernua, Heart Loch. Olaudum luteum, Dunure harbour. Tanaoetum yulgare. Glen near Dunduff Thalletram minus, do. Castle. Ranunculus Lingua, Heart Loch. Gnaphalium rectum^ 1 Shore bv Lathnea squamaria, Blairston. minimum, > Bower- Aotirrhiiium minus, ield above Dunure .....i. gtrmanicura, rj^m Castle. margaritaceum, j Teesdalia nudicaulis, sea shores Aster Tripolium, Dunure shore. Cakile maritime, do. Pyrethrum nwritimum, do. Cardamine minor, Monkwood, J. Smith. Inula bclenium, Dunure Castle. Arabia hirButa,ioeky coast BoirerhilL Orehis albida, ) n»^»:^iM-o« ^ r.- Brassica Monensis, La shore. viridis, f^u^^n.*" *^ ^"' Geranium Columbinum, Drummcllan conopsea, 3 Glen. Listers oordata, among heath on Car- Malva moschata, ) .^ ■ ... rickhilL sylvestris, J ^^J'^""- Malaxis patudosa, Hills above Dunure L^yna sylvestris, Rjmcoch Glen. , Spaiganiu m «mplex, I ^gj^jy ^^ Vicia lutea, Dunure Castle. — natans, J Ornithopus perpusillus. Sea Shore. — acutifolia, distinct species in Astragalus hypo^lottis, top of rocks same locality, with very small heads, BowerhilL no( named, J. Smith. TrilbUum omitfaopodioides I Cunnan Carex llmoaa, Knockdon Moss. • striatum ) Park. .— .. pendula. Banks of Doon. — campestre, J. Smith, common A^idium Oreopteris, Rocks near sea. on barren land, but not distinguished^ Asplenium marinum, do. confounded with T. pretense, but quite Botrychium Lunaria, Carrick-hill. distinct. Cattle dont eat it. Ophioglossum vulntum, do. Lotus angustifolia, J. Smith, Monkwrood. Lyoopodium selaginoides, do. Hypericum androsaemumi 7 Above rocks — - a]pinum,_ do. Jc - calycinum, { on shore. Equisetum fluviatile^ Knockdon Glen. — dubium, Uancoch Glen. . — - hyemale» — - montanum. New Mill Monk- Pilularia globulifera, Greenan. wood. IL — Civil History* I am not aware of any works, printed or MS. devoted entirely to the history of this parish, but there are several documents of considerable interest illustrative of past events, and which refer largely to it The chief of these are, the <^ Historie of the Ken* nedyis," published in 1830, from an original MS. in the library of the Faculty of Advocates, by Mr Pitcairn ;*-an account, by John Knox, published in 1568, of a disputation held betwixt him and Quentin Kennedy, Abbot of Crossraguel, in the town of May- bole, the only copy of which was in the Auchinleck Library, but a fac»simile of which was reprinted by Sir Alexander Boswell in 1812 ; — and, lastly, <^ A Description of Carrick, by Mr William Abercrummie, minister at Maybole," and which has also been printed from Macfarlan's MS. in the Advocates' Library, by Mr 356 AYRSHIRE. Pitcairn, forming No. 3 of his Appendix to the History of the Kennedys. Great light h& been thrown by these works both on the civil and ecclesiastical state of the country, at and before the accession of King James to the English throne ; and the following notices of events, the scenes of which were laid in this parish, have appeared to me not only of local, but even of such general interest as justly to entitle them to a place in this Account. I shall particularly notice two of those events, not only as remarkable in themselves, but as intimately connected with the history of the Reformation, and as setting forth, in striking colours, that union of religious zeal and feudal violence by which its triumphs were at first achieved. One of the most learned, upright, and liberal of the servants of Popery, at the period when Knox was attacking and levelling its strongholds, was Quentin Kennedy, uncle of the Earl of Cassilis, and Abbot of Crossraguel ; and after the publication of several tracts on the controversy raised by the doctrines of the Reformer, he, in the year 1561, proclaimed himself, in his chapel of Kirk- oswald, ready to defend the mass against any one who would im- pugn it, — ^a challenge which Knox failed not to accept of. After a very interesting correspondence about the place of meeting, Knox insisting on M possible publicity, and the abbot objecting to this, on the grounds of desiring to avoid tumult, and his pre- ference of a limited audience, as in all respects better fitted to judge fairly of the matters in dispute ; they at length agreed to meet in the house of the Provost of Maybole, with forty persons on each side, and notaries to record their arguments and proceed- ings. Accordingly, on the 28th day of September, these champions, accompanied with their several retinues, including several of the nobles and gentry of the country, entered Maybole, and met in a dingy-panelled room, in the house of the provost, which still re- mains, and is now occupied as the tavern of the Red Lioo. Their meeting was characteristic. Knox immediately suggest- ed the propriety of commencing the proceedings with prayer; and, on the abbot being offended at the proposal, he would yet in nowise be stayed, and he and his followers had of course to give audience. The abbot seems soon to have been subdued by the power and fervency of Knox's supplications, and honestly yielding to his feelings, he said at the close, ^^ Be my faith, it is well said." The controversy turned chiefly on the priesthood MAYBOLE. 357 of Melcbisedec, as bearing on the sacrifice of the mass, prefigur- ed, according to the Papists, by his offering of bread and wine. There was, however, notwithstanding the learning and acuteness displayed on both sides, a good deal of quibbling and tedious altercation ; and after the dispute -had been prolonged for three days, without ever embracing any of the great points between the contending parties, the noblemen and gentry, cooped up in a small apartment, and ilUsupplied with suitable entertainment and ac« commodation, withdrew, and the dispute never was resumed. But although the meeting brought out nothing new ^touching the matter in dispute, it was not without its influence in forward- ing the great work of the Reformation. Public attention could not fail to be directed by such a conference to the enlightened views and the holy purposes of Knox ; and a lively sense of the . services which he did to their forefathers, has descended to their children of the present day. The inhabitants of Maybole have instituted a ^^ Knox Club," which holds a triennial festival, at which men of all parties meet, to testify their gratitude for their deliver- ance from the domination of Rome, and their seciure enjoynoent of Protestant principles, achieved for them by Knox and his coad- jutors.* But while Popery was thus shaken by the weapons of reason and of truth, there were many altogether indifferent to the Pro- testant cause, who were yet ready to join in the attack on the faU ling fisibric of the church, for the purpose of seizing on its revenues and power ; and I have next to relate, as an instance of this, one of the most remarkable scenes recorded in provincial history. Quentin Kennedy was succeeded in his office of Abbot of Cross- raguel by Allan Stewart, and the barbsirous treatment to which he was subjected, to wring from him the titles of his property, forms a striking part of the " History of the Kennedys.'* The most graphic account, however, of the transaction is given by Richard . Bannatyne in his ^* Memoriales," which is quoted by Mr Pitcairn in his excellent notes ; and it may also be added, that every part of Bannatyne's narrative is distinctly confirmed by the abbot's own statements in his ^^ bill of supplication to the Lords of Privy-Coun- cil." Gilbert, fourth Earl of Cassilis, appears to have been a man of most rapacious and unscrupulous character. He had already, by forgery and murder, possessed himself of the abbacy of Glen- * See the reprint of Uie origina] work of Knox referred to, and Dr M*Crie*s liifc of the Reformer, where a very distinct account of the disputation is to be found. 338 AYRSHIHE. luce ; and he only waited a proper opportunity to attach Cross- raguel, lying in his vicinity, to his estates. Allan Stewart, the abbot, who lived under the protection of the Laird of Bargany, was at length, under hospitable pretences, enticed to leave his safeguard^ and to pass some days in Maybole with Thomas Ken- nedy, brother of the Earl, from whence he was taken to the Castle of Dunure, the original seat of the family, and the ruins of which still stand gloomily on a rock, whose base is washed by the sea on the western boundary of the parish. But we give the words of the original account : * Efter the which the said Mr Allane passed with quyet com- pany to visie the place and boundes of Croceraguall, whairof the said Erie being surelie advertised, determined to put in practeis the tyrany which long before he had conceaved. And so, as king of the countrie, apprehendit the said Mr Allane, and carried him to the house of Dunure, where for a seasone he was honourablie en- treated (gif a prisoner can think ony interteanment pleasing :) but after that certaine dayis were spent, and that the Erie culd not ob* tene the fewis of Croceraguall according to his awin appetite, he determined to prove gif a collatione could work that, which neather dennor nor supper could doe of a long tyme. And so, the said Mr Allane was carried to a secret chalmer ; with him passed the ho- nourable Erie, his worschepful brother, and sic as was appointed to be servantis at that banquet In the chalmer there was a grit iron chimlay, under it a fyre : other grit provesione was not sene. The first cours was, ^ my Lord Abbot (said the Erie) it will pleis you confess heir, that with your awin consent ye remane in my company, becaus ye darre not comitt you to the handis of utheris.' The Abbote answerit, * Wald ye, my Lord, that I should mak a ma- nifest leising, for your pleasour ? The treuth is, my Lord, it is against my will that I am heir ; neither yet have I ony pleasour in . your company.' — * Bot ye sail remane with me at this tyme,* said the Erie. — < I am notable to resist your will and pleasour,' said the • Abbote, * in this place.' — * Ye man then obey me !' said the Erie. And with that were presented unto him certane letteris to subscry ve, amonges which there was a fyve yeare tack and a 19 yeare tack, and a charter of feu of all landis of Croceraguall, with all the clausses necessaire for the Erie to haist him to hell ! For gif adul- terie, sacriledge, oppressions, barbarous creweltis, and thift heap- ed upon thift diserve hell^ the great King of Carrick can no more MAYBOLE. 359 eschape bell, for ever, nor the imprudent Abbot eschaped the fyre for a cessone, as foUowes. ^ Efter that the Erie espyed repugnance, and that he culd not come to his purpose be fair means, he comandit his coockis to pre- pare the banquet And so first, they fleed the scheip, that is, they took of the Abbotis cleathes, even to his skyn : And nixt, they band him to the chimlay, his leggis to the one end and his armes to the uther ; and so they began to bait the fyre, sometymes to his but- tockis, sometymes to his leggis, sometymes to his shulderis and armes. And that the rest suld not bume, but that it might rost in soppe, they spared not flan&bing with oyle. (Lord luik thou to sic creweltie.) And that the crying of the miserable man suld not be hard, they closed his mouth, that the voice myght be stopped. In that torment they held the poore man, whill that oft-tymes he cry- ed, * for Godis sake to despatch him : for he had as mekle gold in his awn purse, as wad buy poulder aneugh, to shorten his paine.' The famous King of Carrick, and his coockes, perceiving the rost to be aneugh, comandit it to be tane fra the fyre, and the Erie him- iself began the grace in this manor : * Benedicite Jesus, Maria ! You are the most obstinate man that ever I saw ! Gif I had knowin that ye had been so stubbome, I wold not for a thousand crownis handled you so J I never did so to man befoir you.' And yet, he returned to the same practeis, within two days, and ceassed not till that he obteaned his formest purpose ; that is, that he had gotten all his pieces subscryvit, alsweil as ane half-rosted hand culd do it !'* It is impossible not to connect these events together, as alike in- dicative of the tottering state of Popery* Abbot Quentin would have scorned the idea of defending his religion, if Knox had not made him feel that it was sinking beneath his feet, and Cassilis would not thus unjustly have asssdled his successor if he had not witnessed the decay of the faith which his property had been given to support, and it hence happened in this as in many other cases, that what zeal for religious liberty began, ra{)acity for the proper- ty of the church completed. * I now turn to the state of society during this period, and am able, from the history of the Kennedys and other sources, to produce from the annak of the parish of Maybole, some of the most vivid illustrations of these olden times. On the farm of west Enoch, a short way from Lady Corse, and on the soath side of a small burn * S«e Bannatync Journal in Mr Graham DalyelPs " lllugtrations of Scottish His- tory,** and Notes and Illustrations to the Historjr of the Kennedjs, &c 360 AYRSHIRE. that dows down the valley, there is a curious mound of earth and stones, nearly opposite to Bogside, which has always been regard- ed as the locality of some warlike exploit ; and the author of the old history referred to, has connected with it, by a description so gra- phic as not to be mistaken, a story of ruthless violence and most tragic interest. The feuds between the Earls of Cassilis and the Lairds of Bar* , gany had been of long continuance, and were scarcely healed, till by some new act of treachery or violence they broke out anew. On the 11th day of December 1601, the Earl of Cassilis hav- ing learned that the Laird of Bargany was to ride from the town of Ayr to his own mansion on the water of Girvan, attended only by a few followers, determined to waylay and attack the party. He accordingly left his castle of Maybole with 200 armed followers, and took his station at the Lady Corse, about half a-mile north of the town. The Laird of Bargany, with his small retinue, soon ap- peared at the Brochloch, on the. opposite side of the valley, and seeing the Earl thus attended, said to bis men that he desired no feud, and would not threw himself in the Earl's way. He accord- ingly led them down the north bank of the rivulet by Bogside, thinking that in this way he might prosecute his route homewards without coming into collision at such disadvantage with his enemy. The Earl, however, determined- to avail himself of his superior force, followed down the south side, and coming to some ** feal dikes," which offered a good support to the fire-arms of his fol- lowers, they immediately began to discharge them at Bargany and his men. * ^ Bargany finding that he could not avoid the rencontre, crossed the burn; but on reaching the south side of it, he perceived that none had ventured to follow him ^^ but the Lairdes of Auchendrayue and Cloncaird, James Bannatyne and Edward Irwing;" and on observing this, he turned round and said, ^' Gude sirs, we are ower few !" They n^ertheless defended themselves with great bravery, and wounded or slew the first of the assailants ; but, overpowered with superior numbers, Auchendrayne was ere long ^^ shott and hurte in the kernellis of the thie, and his horse also : James Ban- natyne's horse was slayne : Edward Irwing, the peadge, was slayne be ane straike of ane lanse. Bot now," continues our author, who * At no distant period a ** ieal dike" stretched along the side of tlie small burn near to the mound referred to» and probably formed a part of it. The names of all the places mentioned by the old historian still' remain, and nothing can be more dis- tinct than the scene of the movements and onset i»hich he so spiritedly relates. MAYBOLE. 36 1 speaks with enthusiasm and eloquence of Bargany, '^ bot now, to speak of the nobill youthe, how gallantly he behaiffit hun selff, my penne can nocht writt the same ; for being bot this way accom- panyitt with thir fy we menne, thair was against him the number of 30 horsemenne, quha all geiff the charge and straikis to thir fywe. Yet quhan that thair wes of thame twa unhorssitt^and ane slayne, sa that their wes nane with him bot ane, yitt he wald nocht stay his curradge, bot raid through me Lordis menne, hard to me Lord, and cryit, ^ quhair is me Lord him selff ! Lett him now keep promise and brek ane trie !' " This challenge was unheed- ed, he was pressed from all side|, and at length was basely struck from behind) while he was gallantly defending himself against his assailants. The weapon went ^' through the craig and through the thropill," and thus, mortally wounded, he was conveyed to May- bole, where my Lord, as " Judge Ordinar" of the country, deter- mined to put him to death if he showed any symptoms of recovery. He was, however, carried from thence to Ayr, and died in twenty- three hours. He appears to have been a person of great promise, and to have been held in high estimation, and his character is thus depicted by the old historian : *^ He was the brawest manne that was to be gotten in ony land; of hiche stataur, and weill maid; his hair blak, bott of ane cumlie feace ; the brawest horsemanne, and the best at all pastymis. For he was feerse and feirry, and wonder nembill. He was about the age of 25 yieris quhane he was slayne, bot of his aige the maist wyise he mycht be ; for gif he had tyme to had experianse to his witt, he had been by his mar- rawis." The details of this murderous deed are not more characteristic of the times than the impunity with which it was passed over. It was, indeed, of too flagrant a nature to be left unnoticed, even in the <* Judge Ordinar ;" but my Lady of Cassilis, who had friends at court, rode to Edinburgh, and obtained his Majesty's favour to her husband, who '^ gott this mukill grantit, that my Lord suld cum hemself, and deall with the thesaurer for his escheitt ;" — ^< and by reason," as the historian farther informs us, ^^ of ten thousand markis" given to that important functionary, *^ there was obtenit to me Lord ane act of counsall, makand all that me Lord had done gude service to the King !" It must, however, be remarked, that our author is on all occa- sions partial to Auchendrane, who had married the daughter of old Bargany, the father of the youth who thus fell ; and it will be 362 AYRSHIRE. seen, that Sir W. Scott, in his prefiitory notice to the tragedy of Auchendrane, relates the circumstances more favourably to the Earl of Cassilis. Out of the events of this bloody action arose the series of dark and tragical deeds on which Sir Walter founded his tragedy. Auchendrane, tP revenge the death of Bargany and his own wound, on being apprized by Sir Thomas Kennedy of CuUayne of his in- tention to visit Edinburgh, instigated a party of his followers to waylay him at the place he bad appointed for a friendly meeting, where they accordingly found and murdered him. Auchendrane was strongly suspected of being the instigator of this crime, but he boldly denied all knowledge of CuUayne's journey, and saw that no evidence of his guilt could be produced, if he could only keep out of the way the messenger who had given him notice of the place of meeting. It so happened, that the person who brought the message of CuUayne to Maybole transmitted it from thence to Mure by the hands of a poor student of the name of Dalrymple, who in consequence became the object of his fears. Notwithstand* ing various places of confinement at Auchendrane and the Isle of Arran, and even his removal to the low countries, where he served in Buccleuch's regiment for five or six years, Dalrymple still re- turned to the country, and Mure determined to trust no longer to temporary expedients, resolved upon his death. He was accord- ingly enticed by a vassal of Mure's, James Bannatyne, to his house at Chapeldonan, a solitary spot on the sea shore, and there, at midnight, by the elder and younger Mures, was murdered and buried in the sand. The hasty and imperfect sepulture was immediately undone by the advancing tide, and they had re- course to the expedient of carrying the body out to sea, in the hope that the wind, which blew strongly from the shore, would remove for ever from their coasts the evidence of their crime. But Pro- vidence ere long brought it back to the very spot of the murder, and the public indignation was soon directed towards Mure, whose tamperings with Dalrymple had formerly been noticed. His fears were in consequence transferred to Bannatyne, whom, in his turn, he and his son attempted to murder ; but Bannatyne being pot upon his guard, eluded their stratagems. He soon, however, found his life so miserable, at once from the persecution of the Mures and the power of his own conscience, that he confessed his crime, and revealed all the circumstances of the foul transaction in which he had been an accomplice. The Mures, against whom the Kin^ MAYBOLE. 363 had become already strongly prejudiced, and whom he had sub- jected to rigorous imprisonment, were brought to the Bar, pro- nounced guilty, and executed amid general execration. The pub- lic feeling on this occasion is not less illustrative of the «charac- ier of the times than the leniency with which such deeds as the slaughter of Bargany were viewed. The chivalry and pride of fa- mily feuds threw a splendour over the latter, in which their crimi- nality was forgotten ; while in the former case, the absence of all such garniture permitted the natural horror, which cold and deli- berate murder excites in the human breast, to come into its full operation. The ruins of the Castle of Auchendrane are still to be traced on the banks of the Doon, near to Monkwood Bridge, on the low road from Ayr to Maybole ; but the last of the family of the Mures long ago died in circumstances of the greatest poverty. The judgments of Heaven have, indeed, in their case, been visibly and awfully displayed. One after another perished in meanness and marked disgrace, and their lands passed into the hands of others. • Eminent Charctcters.-^Dv Macknight, the author of many stan- dard works, was admitted minister of Maybole in the year 1753; and while he discharged the duties of the parish most con- scientiously, and with great acceptance, for sixteen years, he also published during that time the ^^ Harmony," and the '^ Truth of the Gospel Histories," the former in 1756, and the latter in 1763. He was succeeded by Dr Wright, who was also held in great estimation, and who published a volume of sermons. The late Lord Alloway, so distinguished as a Judge in the Court of Session, resided during the vacations at Blairston, on the banks of the Doon, and took much delight in beautifying a place of great natural amenity. He was held in high estimation by all ranks in the parish. Land-aumers. — The chief land-owners are. The Marquis of Ailsa ; T. F. Kennedy of Dunure ; Sir James Fergusson of Kil- kerran; Elias Cathcart of Auchendrane; Quentin Kennedy of Drummellan ; Sir David Hunter Blair ; W. Craufurd of Doon- side ; George M. Torrance, Grange ; John Fergusson of Monk- wood. * Pitcairn*8 Ciiroinal Trials.— Sir W. Soott*s Introduction to the Tragedy aC Auchendrane, and the Hii$torie of the Kennedys. 364 AYRSHIRE. Parochial Registers. — The earliest eatry of a birth is in January 1712; and the register of births is continued regularly from that date down to the present day. The register of proclamations of banns and marriages is of a much more recent date, and does not seem to have been accurately kept. The earliest date of minutes of session is December 1777. A very accurate register of deaths, and the age and the diseases of the deceased, has been kept for the last few years; and the mode of furnishing a document so im- portant is at the same time so simple, that its general adoption is much to be desired. A small fee leads the church-officer to make the requisite inquiries at every funeral. The result is given into the kirk-session every Sabbath after, sermon, and is then entered into a book. If there is any defect in the information, the elder best acquainted with the relatives of the deceased makes farther inquiry, and reports to the succeeding meeting. In so far as the parish registers may be depended upon, the average births for the last seven years have been 151 ; marriages, 51 ; deaths, 135. Antiquities* — -The ruins of several religious houses are still to be traced in different parts of the parish. The walls of the church of Kirkbride, on the farm of Dunduff, are distinct, the surround- ing burying-ground is still used, and an adjoining field bears the name of the Priest's Land. At Auchendrane and elsewhere, the rudera of similar erections were visible when Abercrum- mie wrote his Journal. Kirkbride has generally been consider, ed as a parish united to Maybole, but, being unable to find "any notice of the union, I am rather inclined to think that it and the other ruins referred to were chapels attached to the collegiate church of Maybole. This last was an establishment of consider- able importance, and had a rector and three prebends. It was endowed out of the provost and priest's lands in the parish of Kirk- michael, which fell into the hands of the Earl of Cassilis, upon the dissolution of the college at the Reformation. The Black House and Well Trees still remain of the residences of the priests, and the orchards that surrounded the others are well known. The collegiate church is used as a burying-place by the family of Cas- silis, and others who formerly contributed to its repair. It was, nevertheless, allowed to fall into a most ruinous and filthy condi- tion, from which it was only rescued by the public spirit of Mr Andrews, and the inhabitants of Maybole, who a few years ago. MAYBOLE. 365 by subscription^ surrounded it with a wall, and tastefully laid out and planted the enclosure. There are throughout the parish the remains of a great many castles, the ancient seats of those feudal chiefs who figure in the history of the Kennedys, and in the civil broils of the times. Be- sides the Castle of Maybole, the former residence of the Earls of Cassilis, and the principal part of which is still in excellent pre- servation, there are, more or less entire, the Castles of Newark, Greenan, Dunduff, Dunure, and Kilhenzie ; while those of Bridg- end or Doonside, Smithstowne, Sauchrie, Craigskean, Beoch, Garryhome, Glenayes, Brochlock, and Dalduff, are only to be traced in a few ruinous walls. There are also within the town of Maybole several remains of its former consequence and splendour, when, as the provincial ca- pital it was resorted to in winter by many of the principal families in Carrick. Besides the dwellings of the ecclesiastics and the Earl of Cassilis, commonly designated in these days the King of Carrick, the following houses of the gentry still remain ; the pre- sent tolbooth, the town residence of the Lairds of Blairquhan ; the house of Sir Tliomas Kennedy of Culzean, now belonging to Mr Niven of Kirkbride ; the house of Kennedy of Ballemore, in the Kirk Wynd ; the Garden of Eden, the house of the abbots of Crossraguel, &c. extending, according to some, to the number of twenty-eight The civil jurisdiction of Carrick was a bailliarie, belonging he- ritably to the Earls of Cassilis ; and Maybole derived an additional degree of consequence from being the ordinary seat of the courts of justice, when the most important cases were tried, and the pu- nishment of death frequently inflicted. The Gallow Hill still points out the place of execution ; and there are people alive who re- member those who could tell as a tale of their youth, the history of criipinals whom they saw suffer. On an eminence, over the farm of Trees, there is a very distinct encampment ; and traces of similar enclosures, by mounds of earth, are visible in other places, and more particularly near the Castle of Dunduff. It is common to designate them as Roman Camps ; but they appear of far too inconsiderable dimensions to be con- nected with the history of that great people, and are far more like- ly the remains of small forts erected by the Irish, who frequently overran the country, and many of which, of the very same form and construction, are still found in Ireland. 366 AYRSHIRE. That the Romans traversed the parish there can, however, be no doubt The great road passes through the parishes of Dalrymple and Ayr, at no great distance ; and a spear head of bronze, shaped like a saddler's knife, and made by incurvated edges to fit upon a shaft, dug up in the &rm of Drumbeg, and a small image of the same metal representing justice with her equal weights, found in the farm of Drumshang, and now both in my possession, attest their presence, in the monuments they furnish of their wars and their superstition. Near the Castle of Dunduff, a coin of Albert and Elizabeth of Bruges and Brabant, about the size of a crown piece, was lately turned up by the plough. It bears no date, but as they reigned about 1680, its existence in that locality may readily be accounted for in many ways. It was then common for Scotsmen to enlist in the service of the low countries, and it may have been part of thn earnings of years of hardship, brought back to his native spot by some veteran soldier. Smuggling was also extensively carried on, and it was not uncommon also to pay soldiers serving in the coun- try in foreign money. Tumuli containing bones, of which there is a good specimen on the farm of St Murrays, are common. Abercrummie mentions many remains of Catholic superstition, which are now almost forgotten. St Helen's Well, to the north of Baloch Mount, was long famous for the cure of unthriving children, at the change of the quarter, and more particularly at May-day, and was greatly resorted to even at a recent date. Pennyglen's Cross Well, also enjoyed great reputation for the cure of cows *^ taken with mure-ill," and was carried even to great distances, as ^* by drinking thereof, they are healed." Modem Buildings. — The church is a plain structure, with a steeple in the worst possible taste. By a recent repair the in- terior has been rendered comfortable and neat. There is no other building worthy of notice, but it may still be consolatory to observe, that, notwithstanding the decline which this would indi- cate from the former grandeur of Maybole, there is not one of the ancient houses of the gentry referred to, which is not far surpassed in accommodation and comfort by the houses of the respectable in* habitants of the present day. III. — Population. Ancient State. — The ancient state of the population of this pa- rish must have been liable to much disturbance and fluctuation. In common with other parts of Carrick, it was traversed by the Ro* J MAYBOLE. 367 mans, who conquered the aborigines. It was then successively overrun by the Northumbrians, the Scots, and the Irish. It was afterwards infested by the Danes and Norwegians, and by the English during the struggles of Walkce and Bruce. The feuds of hostile chieftains, the struggles of the Reformation, and the defence of presbytery against the persecutions of the house of Stuart, suc- ceeded ; and in 1676 particularly, there appears to have been a fearful loss of life. Yet, notwithstanding all these causes of dis- turbance, there are traces of a considerable population from very remote times, in the ruins, cairns, and marks of culture, which are found in every part of the parish. In the palmy days of Popery, the town must have had a considerable population, from the large ecclesiastical establishment of the Collegiate Church, with all its officers and dependents, as well as from the residence of the gen- try referred to under the head of Ciril History. After the Refor- mation, and the great changes in the state of society consequent upon it, there appears to have been a decrease of the population from that period to the close of the last century. From that time to the present, the numbers have increased both in the town and country ; in the former they have been doubled, amounting now, from the influx of Irish weavers, to 4000 ; while in the country the spirit of agricultural improvement has also caused an increase, and where the population is between 2000 and 3000. There are none of the nobility or large proprietors who reside within the bounds of the parish. Their mansion-houses are for the most part in the neighbouring parishes ; those that are within it are empty or let ; and there are only five proprietors of land of the value of L. 50 and upwards, actually resident The peasantry may be generally stated to be of athletic and ac- tive habits, decidedly intelligent and moral, attached, with a very few exceptions, to the Established Church, and possessed in con- sequence of that steady and rational piety, which even in periods of great excitement has kept them in peace, and rendered voluntary- ism itself unknown, or altogether uninteresting in this district. They speak the expressive language of Burns, are well clothed, and, upon the whole, keep their cottages in a cleanly state, although it is to be lamented that many should still be so deficient in this respect. There are 4 deaf and dumb persons, 2 or 3 fatuous, and about the same number occasionally insane, but there has not been for many years any one in a state to require constant confinement in an asylum. 368 AYRSHIRE. Smuggling had at one time made considerable encroachment on the morals of the people, but it has now for many years been almost totally abandoned, and beyond a few casks of Arran water from the opposite shored, and a little soap from Ireland, is unknowil. The country people upon the whole enjoy the ordinary comforts of life, and are contented in their circumstances. The popular tion in the town is in many respects very different. The intro* duction of manufactures has raised many in the scale of affluence and comfort, but it has led many of the operatives into habits of dissipation, and the Irish in particular, although there are ho« nourable exceptions, are but too generally drunken and filthy in their persons and houses. There are a great many poachers. The number of public-houses is a reproach to all concerned in main- taining them, and pawnbroking, their invariable attendant, has increased to an alarming extent, and threatens, with the spirit-shop, the ruin of the poorer classes. ' The number residing in the town by a census lately taken by the kirk-session is very nearly 4000. There are no villages of any consequence, and the rest of the population, amounting to about 2400, are distributed over the different farms. IV. — Inddstuy. Agriculture. — The extent, variety of surface, and great recent improvements, combine to render this parish highly important as an agricultural district The total number of acres, as taken from the returns made by the different farmers, is. Total imperial acres, - - 20,681 Of these arable, - - 16,684 Under plantation, •> - 948 Hill pasture and moorland, - 2400 Meadow, ... 564 20,681 The arable land consists, partly of a light soil, which produces excellent crops of potatoes, turnips and oats ; and partly of a strong clay soil, which yields upon being thoroughly drained heavy crops of wheat The hill pasture and moorland occur chiefly on the summits and declivities of the Brown Carrick range of hills, and recent ex- periments have shewn, that even much of these might be profits ably improved, more especially with a view to superior permanent pasture. The farmers occupying them are generally men of in^ telligence and enterprise, and have all done more or less in this species of improvement The efforts of the late Mr M^Janet 4 MAVBOLE. 369 of Drumshaug, are of sufficient magnitude and importance to entitle them to a particular notice. The &rm of Drumshang consists of upwards of 1000 imperial acres, 600 of which are, or rather were, in the state of moor, and the scanty herbage found among the heather that covered the greater part of it, may be inferred from the fiict of the whole being valued at from 3s. to 4s. per acre. The tract selected by Mr M* Janet for his experiments was a part of this, lying on trap rock, and about 750 feet above the level of the sea. Little drainage was required, and he.there* fore commenced his operations by stripping off the surface, burn- ing it, and then spreading the ashes over the soil. He afterwards laid upon it 20 bushels of bone-dust per acre, and in the usual way prepared it for, and sowed it with, turnips. They proved a full and excellent crop, and were consumed entirely on the ground with sheep. The next season he sowed the whole with oats and barley with grass-seeds. The oats were an abundant crop, ave- raging seven quarters per acre; the barley was rather light, yield- ing only about four quarters. The grass over the whole came up thick and fine, and is now in pasture, which is considered well worth L. 1 per acre. The tract thus reclaimed was considerably above 100 acres, and the whole being done in two years, the Highland Society conferred on Mr M^Janet their gold medal, for the greatest extent of waste land in Scotland brought into cultivation within the shortest time. The expenses attendant on such ope- rations, appear, however, too great to be borne by the tenant, and the poor return for agricultural produce, threatens to arrest the speed of the plough, and to diminish rather than increase the amount of cultivated land. In such circumstances, too, an immediate increase of produce be- comes essential to the farmer, and instead of looking to the tardy returns of reclaimed waste, he is led to apply his capital to the more perfect improvement of his arable land by furrow-draining. This process is very expensive also, costing when done, either with stones or tiles, from L. 5 to L. 7 per acre. But landlords seem peculiarly disposed to aid their tenants in this great and per- manent improvement, either by advancing the whole capital re- quired, and charging a per centage of additional rent, or by con- tributing a proportion of the expense, and leaving the farmer the whole benefit during the remainder of his lease. From all I have seen and heard both from landlords and tenants, I consider fur- row-draining upon clayey and retentive soils as the grand improve- AYR. A a 370 AYRSHIRE. ment in recent agriculture, and which promises, above all other things, to compensate for lowness of price by increase of produce. The actual rental of the parish amounts to nearly L. 19,(K)0, making the average rent per acre between ISs. and 19s. Leases are of nineteen years length. With the exception of a few farms, ranging from 200 to 1000 acres, where the farm-houses are com- modious and comfortable, and the offices substantial and exten- sive, the greater number of the farms are small, many from only 40 to 100 acres; and these, which are generally cultivated by the farmer and his family, who work hard and live plainly, have, with few exceptions, very poor accommodations, both in dwelling-houses and offices. Grross Amount of Maw Prodttce. — It is extremely difficult to get accurate returns under this head ; but the following results are taken from reports procured from each of the farmers, and are, I have no doubt, near to the truth. The prices were calculated at about the average of the last three years. Wheat, - L. 10,510 Oats, - 9946 Beans, - 1392 Barley, . 219 Potatoes, - 6257 Turnips, - 5202 Cultivated hay, - 4013 Meadow hay, - 563 Pasture, 9100 L. 47.202 There are besides small quantities of beet ; about L. 300 per annum for orchards and garden ground ; about L. 50 per annum for wood. There is a salmon fishery at the mouth of the Doon, of which a notice will be found in the account of the parish of Ayr. At Dunure there is also a small sea-fishing establishment, but with respect to the fish taken there, and their appearances on our coasts, I have also to refer to the account of the parish of Ayr. ZrftJtf-S^ocA.— The breed of cattle is almost exclusively the Ayr- shire, which has attained so much celebrity for the purposes of the dairy, and which seems also well adapted for the butcher-market An attempt has been recently made to introduce the short-horned breed for the latter purpose, and I have seen very fine animals of that spe- cies, and also of the cross between it and the Ayrshire, and which both attained to a much greater weight than the native cattle ever reach. On inquiry, however, I found that such had uniformly re- quired a great deal of extra feeding, and I have little doubt that MAYBOLE. 371 the generality of our farmers will have as much weight of beef, at a much less amount of expense, at the end of the year, from the feeding of the Ayrshire cattle, Vhich seem in every respect best fitted to the nature and powers of the soi]. The sheep fed in the parish, which are comparatively few in number, are chiefly of the black-faced and Cheviot breeds, although, on some of the best farms, the Leicester breed have also been in- troduced. Manufactures. — There are no manufacturing establishments of any consequence in the parish ; but, as has invariably happened on the west coast, the influences of Glasgow and the proximity of Ireland, have drawn to the town and every little hamlet a great population of hand-loom weavers. These are aU employed by the manufac- turers of Glasgow through the medium of a class of middle-men, called agents, and who, from the improvidence of the weavers, who are mostly Irish, and their practice of keeping shops and paying them in kind, are generally very prosperous. This system is in many respects calculated to depress the condition of the operative. He applies for goods to the agent, and gets into debt. He must then purchase at the agent's own price, and is generally in pover- ty. Yet, on the other hand, the extreme improvidence of the Irish renders them little capable of being entrusted with money ; their wages might all be expended on whisky ; and when the agents do not in any part pay them in it, a practice that cannot be too se- verely reprobated, the plan of giving articles of food and clothing instead of cash, is perhaps conducive to the welfare of their fami- lies. The transaction is, indeed, an infringement of the law of the land, and on this account some of the agents pay their weavers in money, but the truck system is easily followed by a shopkeeper without any direct violation of the statute for its prevention. It is very common for women to weave. Boys are put at an early age to the loom, and the hours of working are, more especially in times of depression, very long. I have known the weaver to labour, with little intermission, fourteen and sixteen hours a-day, and after all earn but the miserable pittance of 6s. or 7s. per week, a sum bare- ly adequate to support his family in the meanest way ; but at pre- sent a most favourable change has occurred, and every one, even with moderate exertion, may command all the comforts of life. It is, however, melancholy to observe how very often men frustrate by their vices the kindness of Providence. With prosperity, habits of idleness and drinking, which had been checked, have returned, 372 AYRSHIRE. and the sounds of riot are again heard in our streets, protracted on the morning of the Sabbath even till a late hour.* The effects produced by this influx of a large manufacturing po- pulation will be very diflFerently viewed, according to the different ways in which we may estimate the prosperity of a community. li^ in the utilitarian spirit of the times, we look upon wealth as the great ingredient of that prosperity, we must no doubt regard this influx as an unmingled good. Every week brings from Glasgow, at the present time, in payment for work, from L. 500 to L. 700, every farthing of which is immediately expended, and this has unques- tionably had the effect, not only of enriching our shopkeepers, but also of producing a demand for agricultural produce, which has be- nefited the farmers, and raised the value of land in every part of the parish. But if, on the other hand, we regard wealth as a very secondary object, and view all human events, as good or evil, ac- cording to their bearing on moral and religious character, we must make great deductions from the foregoing estimate of its advan- tages. The great proportion of the population in question are dis- solute in their habits ; few of them attend any place of worship ; they spend the Sabbath in wandering over the fields and on the sea shore, and desecrate the day by their irregularities. Our na- tive population have no doubt kept themselves very much apart from their society, — a circumstance which, if it has tended on the one hand, to perpetuate their ignorance and immorality, has, on the other hand, counteracted in a considerable degree the contamina- tion of their example. Considerable exertions, however, have lately been made to ad- vance, more especially the young among them, in knowledge and religion ; and it is hoped that they may ere long occupy a higher status in the community. Agricultural Association* — There was instituted in the year 1797 an association for the improvement of agriculture, which holds its meetings at Maybole, and the beneficial influences of which are to be observed in the good farming and excellent stock of the sur- rounding district It is called the Carrick Farmers' Society, and numbers among its members the nobility and gentry, the great pro- * Since writing the above, a striking proof of the fluctuating nature of nianufnc- tures has been am>rded. The supply of webs from Glasgow has been greatly curtail- ed, and prices lowered. IVJany of the weavers have been thrown idle, and reduced to a state of starvation. What they call a dull has set in, and the heritors and inhabi- tants of the parish have had to come forward for their relief. The sutemtnt in the subsequent paragraph referred to the state of things two or three montlis ago. 3 J MAYBOLE. 373 portion of the respectable farmers, and several of the clergy of this division of the county. Four regular meetings are held in the year, and there are commonly two exhibitions of stock of different kinds, when premiums, voted by the society, and two pieces of plate, an- nually given by the Marquis of Ailsa and Sir James Fergusson of Kilkerran, are competed for. The Society also awards premiums for the best management of green crops, and the neatest operations in ploughing and other field labour. Essays on subjects connect- ed with agricultural improvements are read and discussed at the meetings, and a grant is annually made from the funds for the pur- chase of books, models, or new implements of husbandry. Assist- ance is also given to members who may have fallen into poverty, and to the families of such as may have been left in that condition. Its affairs are altogether most judiciously managed ; its meetings in every respect most beneficial ; and, notwithstanding the liberal sums given every year for the various purposes referred to, there is at present a capital of L. 575. V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeUTown. — Maybole is a market-town. The market is held on Thursday, and is limited to the sale of butter, eggs, and a few of the minor articles of country produce. The grain raised in the parish is generally taken to the town of Ayr, about nine miles distant. Means of Communication, — There is a post-office in Maybole. The length of turnpike roads is 28 miles 6 fur. poles, 8 yds. A mail-coach passes daily through the town, to and from Glas- gow, and Port- Patrick. Two stage-coaches run twice in the week to and from Ayr. 'I'he fences of dry-stone dikes, or more generally of thorn and beech hedges, are in good order, and bridges, embankments, and all connected with the public roads, are in the best condition. There is a small harbour at Dunure, where there are a few fishing-boats, and where lime and bone-dust are frequently landed in vessels, freighted by the farmers from Ireland, but it is getting fast into a state of dilapidation, and if not soon repaired will be- come utterly useless. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situate at the east entrance to the town, and though extremely convenient for its in- habitants, and those of the southern and adjacent parts of the country parish, is still very far removed from many localities to- wards the east and north, and more especially from the whole of 374 AYRSHIUE. the country on the western and northern parts of Brown Carridt- hill, many places there being from five to nine miles distant by the road. It was built in 1808, and the last repair by which the interior was much improved, was made in 1830. It accommodates from 1200 to 1300, Twelve sittings only, and these in corners and passages, are free and set apart for the poor. The manse was built in 1806. It is small, and in the usual style of manse archi- tecture, but it has been substantially built, and has not hitherto re- quired any expensive repairs. The glebe consists of about nine Scots acres, and is worth L. 30 per annum. The stipend is 20 chalders of victual, half meal and half barley, with an allowance of L.20 for communion elements. There are as yet no chapels, but a preaching station has of late been established in the shore district, which is so far distant from the parish church ; and it is hoped that a church will soon be erected and endowed in that quarter. An additional church for the accommodation of the weaving population in the town is also much required. There is a chapel belonging to the United Se- cession body in the town, the minister of which, the Rev. Mr Thomson, receives a stipend of about L. 100 per annum, a very inadequate remuneration for his worth and services. There is also a small chapel in connection with the Methodists, but no regular minister, and the Irish Catholics and Episcopalians have the oc- casional services of the ministers of these persuasions in Ayr. Taking the population at 6362, there are belonging to the Es- tablished Church 5033, and of the 1329 belonging to other de- nominations, the following is the distribution : United Secession, 548; Roman Catholic, 355; Church of England, 214; Metho- dist, 104; Relief, 54; Reformed Presbytery, 44; Antiburgher, 10. Divine service at the Established Church is generally well at- tended, and the average number of communicants is 1300. There is a society, named the Maybole Association, for religious purposes, supported chiefly by collections, made from time to time in the parish church and Secession meeting-house, and the most general application of the funds has been in donations to the Ayr and Edinburgh Bible Societies, from both of which most liberal supplies of Bibles and Testaments have been received for distri- bution among the poor. Collections for other claims, such as the Assembly's Missions, Church Extension, Education, and for purposes of local charity, are MAYBOLE. 375 made at convenient intervals at the church door, and may alto- gether amount to about L. 40 per annum. A tract society has been in vigorous operation for nearly two years, and its publications, which have always been favourably re- ceived, promise to be useful to the community. I must here notice an association, not strictly parochial, but con* nected in the same manner with all the parishes in Carrick, the Carrick Class, composed of the clei^ of the district, and the duty of giving some account of which has been assigned to me. This association has existed since the establishment of Presbytery in Scotland. The meetings of the clergy upon church matters ap- pear successively to have been called congregations and classes, before they were regularly constituted into presbyteries : and the Carrick Class, though it has frequently been proposed, having never been erected into a presbytery, has yet retained the old name^ and kept up its meetings, with occasional periods of interruption, down to the present day. Our proceedings have of course lost their business character, al- though something of the original purposes of the meeting may sometimes be discerned, in the members asking advice in difficul- ties, taking into their own hands business more immediately con- nected with the district, and even occasionally arranging little matters, which, when afterwards brought out in the presbytery,- will draw forth a good humoured notice of our clannish propensi- ties, and attempts at establishing, if not our original independence, at least an '^ imperium in imperio" ■ The great purposes of our meeting, however, are the mainte- nance and promotion of literary and professional attainments, good fellowship, and Christian harmony. With the exception of the months in which the sacrament is dispensed in the different pa- rishes, the members, according to a fixed rotation, meet in each other's manses, on the second Tuesday of every alternate month, at otie o'clock p. m. The minister in whose manse the meeting is held, opens it with prayer, and reads an essay on any literary, theological or ecclesiastical subject, which his own taste may have led him to choose. The members, according to seniority, then express their opinion of the essay, and their own views of the points treated of; and after any reply which the author may make, the meeting is closed with prayer, agreeably to the same rotation. The afternoon is spent with the family in social enjoyment, and members from a distance generally remain all night. i 376 AYRSHIRE. That these meetings accomplish some, or perhaps the most, important of these purposes, the kindly relations, unbroken by differences of party, in which the Carrick brethren have long lived, afford a most pleasing proof. Nor have they been abor- tive in a literary and professional view. Dr Macknight, for- merly alluded to as minister of Maybole, read the substance both of his Harmony and Truth of the Gospel histories as essays in the class, before sending them to the press ; and with- out presuming to say any thing directly of the present members, one of whom at least is well known to the church by his high character and useful publications ; the following list of subjects lately treated of will show, that they have not laid aside, amid their more sacred duties, those literary tastes and habits of study, which never fail to give additional influence to the clerical cha- racter : On the Interpretation of the Apocalypse, one of a Series, by Mr Inglis, of Kirkoswald ; Critical examination of the latter part of the 7th chapter of the Epistle to the Romans, by Dr Hill of Dailly ; Critical essay on the 19th verse of the dd chapter of 1st Peter, by Mr Blair of Colmonell ; On what has been denomi- nated the Golden Era of the Church, or Second Reformation, by Mr Wallace of Barr ; On the Etymology, and Scripture use of the Hebrew word D%"Tf>N by Mr Gray of Maybole ; On the pro- posal for a new form of Process, and the introduction of Trial by , Jury into the Church Courts, by Mr Paton of Straiten ; On the Deluge, by Mr Wallace of Dalrymple ; Whether the Election of Ministers by the People is a right founded on Scripture, by Mr Milroy of Ballantrae ; Outline of an argument for the Truth and Reasonableness of the peculiar doctrines of Christianity, by Mr Houston of Dalmellington ; On the authorship and original lan- guage of the Epistle to the Hebrews, Mr^M^Ewen of KirkmichaeL EducatUm. — Total number of schools in the parish, 13; of paro- chial, 1 ; supported by subscription, 1 ; free school-room, 2 ; un- endowed in any way, 9. English reading and grammar, writing and arithmetic, are taught in all the schools ; and in the parochial and three of the others, Latin, Greek, French, and geography. The parochial schoolmaster, at present Mr John Inglis, preacher of the Gospel, has the maximum salary ; an allowance of L.30 per annum for house rent, and L. 5 for school prizes, and the average amount of fees is L. 100. There is a general anxiety for the education of the young throughout the parish ; and since the establishment of the sub- MAYBOLK. 377 scription school for the poorer classes in the town, which has been very ably conducted by Mr Lennox, a greater desire for the in- struction of their children has sprung up among the Irish popu- lation, which promises to be attended with the happiest results. Literature, — There are subscription and circulating libraries in the town, and in the villages of Dunure and Calroy; and the parish school and Sabbath evening schools have small libraries attached to them. Charitable and other Institutions — Friendly Societies, The following list will show that a number of these important societies still exist ; many have been dissolved, and several are rather in a declining state. They have been of the very greatest advantage, and have enabled many families to maintain their independence in seasons of distress ; and it is to be regretted that erroneous calcu- lations at the first, and too liberal application of the funds at par- ticular conjunctures, should have shaken their stability and im- paired their usefulness: — Love and Unity, instituted in 1796, has of capital, L.54; Philanthropic, instituted in 1808, capital, L. 120; Caledonian, sixty-six members, instituted in 1818, capital, L. 140; Social and Humane, instituted in 1825, capital, L.84; Albion, sixty-six members, instituted in 1820, capital, L.8d; Benevolent Love and Unity Female, instituted in 1829; Friendly Female, instituted in 1810, capital, L.25. Saving Banks. — There was instituted in 1831, a savings bank for Maybole and the adjacent villages, which has continued to prosper to the present date, but it is much to be regretted that so few, especially of the hand-loom weavers, should have availed them- selves of its provisions. The following summary furnished by Mr Brown, the banker, will show the progress and state of the institution. No. of Cash paid to Sitmsdeporii^ Net balance depoai- depositors ed with int. to ofyearJy de- tors, with interest, depositors, posits, J 83 1. For year from 9th April 1831 (the period of its com- mencement,) ending 1st Jan. 1882, for Maybole and ad- jacent villages there were 119 L.26 18 9 L.400 8 L. 373 1 11 1832. For the year ending 1 st Jan. 1833, for Maybole and vici- nity, (after deducting from the number of the deposi- tors those of the previous year, who had withdrawn during the current year.) 129 209 7 9 357 5 147 12 8 1833. For the year Ist January 1834, (deducting as above) 170 251 9 6 425 4 173 3 10 378 AYRSHIRE. 1834. For the year ending 1st 1885, No. of Cash paid to Sums depotii' Nethalance depoti- depositor s ed with hiL to of yearly de- tort. wUh interest, depotUort. p9tUi, January 1835, (deducting as above.) - - 210 L.d40 8 L.46B 14 11 L.128 6 11 1835. For the year ending Ist January 1836, (deducting as above.) - - 255 443 16 1 616 7 7 172 U 6 1836. For the year ending Ist January 1837, (deducting as above.) - - 273 478 4 9" 636 1 10 157 17 2 The number of depositors (273) at 1st January 1837, may be classed as follows, viz. farm^servants, (male 26, female 44,) 70; domestic servants, 25 ; sewers, &c. 46 ; children, &c. 47 ; labour- ers, 28; weavers, 25; mechanics, &c« 17; not classed, 15. De- positors, 273; of whom there are males, 126 ; of females, 147 ; to- tal, 273 — having due to them at 1st January 1837, per state of account from bank, L. 1152, 14s. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is about 70; and the average sum al- lotted to each per week about Is. 4d. The annual amount of contributions is about L.230; L. 100 of which is raised by the ordinary collection at the church door, and another L. 100 by a voluntary contribution from the heritors, who are generally non-resident, and who in the payment of this sum probably give less than they would do, in the course of a re- gular attendance at church. The remaining L. 30 is made up of proclamation fees, collections at marriages, and private baptisms. If the general non-residence of the heritors, and the extent and condition of the population be considered, there can be no doubt that the poor in this parish are supported at as small an expense as in any other parish similarly situated. But it must not be con- cealed, that though among the native population there are a great many who would starve rather than ask charity, this does not re- sult from any general reluctance on the part of the poorer classes, especially among the Irish, to ask for parochial relief, but because they find in begging a more productive and agreeable mode of support, than in the pittance given by the kirk-session. I am quite sure that the fund publicly distributed bears a small proper^ tion to what is given e^ery year by the inhabitants of the town and country at their doors. Many fine things have been written in fa- vour of this mode of management, and it no doubt has its advan- tages ; but the extensive training to habits of public begging which it involves, cannot be estimated as a trifling drawback, when all MAYBOLE. 379 the demoraliziDg consequences of that practice^ particularly among the young, are taken into account. Prisons. — There is a prison attached to the town-hall, used chiefly as a lock-up house, till offenders are sent to the Ayr gaol. Fairs. — There are four held annually, the Candlemas Bel- tane, Lammas, and Hallow fairs, originally instituted for different purposes of merchandise, but now almost entirely limited to the hiring of servants* Innsy Sfc. — There are 50 inns and ale-houses in the parish, between 30 and 40 of which are in the town, and the others in the country, — a number far beyond what is required for legiti- mate purposes, and most prejudicial to the morals of the people. Fuel. — The fuel almost exclusively used is coaL The town and southern districts of the parish are generally supplied from the Girvan water-pits at Dalzellowby and Dalquharn, four and five miles distant, while the northern part is more frequently supplied from the Ayr water coal-field. The coal from the Girvan water is sold at from 7s. 6d. to 10s. per ton delivered. That from the Ayr field generally costs a little more, but is much superior in quality. MiSCELLAKBOUS OBSERVATIONS. The changes in the state of this parish since the publication of the last Statistical Acount are numerous and striking. It is little more than thirty years since wheat began to be par- tially cultivated ; it has only been generally raised within the last twenty years, and it now constitutes the chief and most valuable pro- duce of the land, and has been grown of a weight and quality equal to that of the Lothians. Within the last forty years, there was scarcely a hedge, the greater part of the land was in pasture, and the only crops were oats, bear, and a few peas and beans. The fields are now well enclosed and drained, and bear abundantly all kinds of agricul- tural produce. About that period, too, the cattle were of the Galloway breed, which have now been superseded by the Ayrshire, and which are found in as great perfection, both as to weight and symmetry, as in any other parish in the county. The eow painted by Mr Shiels for the Edinburgh University Agricultural Museum is in the stock of Mr Finlay of Lionston, in the immediate vicinity of the town. Some very curious details, illustrative of the progress of im- provement, were furnished by an inquiry lately made, for a legal 380 AYRSHIRE. purpose, into the former and present condition of an estate on the sea shore. Before the year 1780, there was not a fence beyond that of a low turf wall upon the whole property, and the houses were mere huts, thatched, and generally with gabels built of turf. The whole is now divided and enclosed, and the farm-houses and steadings are commodious, slated, and even handsome in their ap- pearance. But the following state of the rental, at the different dates referred to, affords the most striking proof of the change which has taken place. From the original document, it appears that the rent, at the earlier dates, consisted of so many pounds Scots, with small quantities of bear and meal, and a quantity of poultry ; but the value of the whole, calculated at the prices of the times, is here given in Sterling money. Yeart, Rents. In 1736, L. 172 4 11 1765, . 211 12 4 1785, . 346 10 d|^ ^ 1819, . 2157 4 The town of Maybole has also of late years been much im- proved. Access to it was formerly inconvenient and difficult, but, by the exertions of Mr Niven of Karkbride, who has always taken the greatest interest in the improvement of his native place, the streets have been opened by spacious roads to and from all quar- ters. The tradesmen are highly respectable ; the merchants are men of substance and intelligence ; and many of the shops are handsome and well stocked with every article of provisions and dress required by the town and neighbouring country. The change from a purely agricultural to a manufacturing po- pulation has, too, produced great alterations, some of the perni- cious effects of which have been elsewhere adverted to ; but we cannot doubt that, with proper means of improvement, the whole might finally be rendered matter of congratulation. Let the civil magistrate be vigilant in repressing crime ; — let him reduce to a moderate numiber the houses of public entertainment, and rigidly enforce good hours and orderly demeanour, more especially on the Sabbath day ; — ^let the ecclesiastical establishments be so adapted to the increased numbers, that the means of religious instruction and pastoral superintendence be provided for all ; — and let edu«o cation, under the directing care of the Church, be proportionally extended, and there can be no question that the ignorant and ir- religious located amongst us will be raised in the moral scale, and be succeeded at least by a better generation. September 1837. PARISH OF DAILLY. PRESBYTERY OF AYR, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ALEXANDER HILL, D. D. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name given to this parish, Dafy or Daillyy has probably arisen from its consisting principally of a dale or valley stretching along the banks of the river Girvan. Extent^ Sfc, — From north-east to south-west, the parish extends in the line of the river about 7 miles. It varies in breadth from 4 to 6 miles. Topographical Appearances. — The figure of the parish is an ir- regular oblong. It is bounded on the west and south-west by the parish of Girvan ; on the south by the parish of Barr, a great part of which, prior to 1650, belonged to the parish of Dailly; on the east by the parishes of Straiten and Kirkmichael ; and on the north- east and north by the parish of Kirkoswald. It lies nearly in the centre of Carrick, one of the three districts of Ayrshire. The hills on both sides of the valley are of very moderate height. There is much natural beauty in every part of it, from the wind- ing of the river, and the variety of the ground ; and its natural beauty has been greatly heightened by the improvements of mo- dern times. Although the extremity of this parish is nearly two miles distant from the sea coast, yet the Island of Ailsa, about fifteen miles west from the town of Girvan, is considered as belonging to Dailly, be- ing included in the barony of Knockgerran, a part of the Marquis of Ailsa's property, which lies in this parish. It is a huge rock, perhaps two miles in circumference at the base, and about 1)00 feet above the level of the sea. Seen from the south or north its shape is very much that of a cone. Its appearance from the east is more flattened. It is precipitous on all sides, and is accessible only on the north-east, where there is a small beach. The cliffs in several places are columnar. A considerable way up the rock are remains of buildings, supposed to have been a tower or castle. 382 AYRSHIRE. and a chapel. Very fine water is found on the rock, and near its summit There is little pasture on it Numberless flocks of birds frequent it, and particularly gannets or solan geese. It is chiefly from their feathers that the rent of the island is derived ; and it is only during the time that the birds are sought for on account of their feathers, that any one resides upon it There was recently a plan in agitation for making Ailsa a fishing-station, for the sup- ply of Glasgow and Liverpool, by means of the steam-boats which pass it regularly. Some buildings were commenced for the pur- pose, but the plan has not been carried into effect. Geology and Mineralogy. — The parish abounds in some of the most useful minerals, as coal, limestone, and sandstone (freestone.) The form or shape of the coal-field is that of a long elliptical basin, extending about six miles in a north-east and south-west line of bearing through the parish. Its breadth is about 600 yards. Eminent engineers consider it as forming part of the great coal field which stretches across the island from the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, in a south-westerly direction, into Ayrshire. The coal- field here consists of five workable seams of coal, varying in thick- ness from four to fourteen feet, and cropping out to the surface on both sides of the basin, at right angles to the line of bearing, with different declivities, from forty-five degrees, from one in one to one in three. The seams are all of good quality, but are subject to various dislocations, ashitches, si ips, and are traversed by greenstone or whin- stone dikes, &c The roofs are generally good, either shale, fire-clay, or hard sandstone. The coal is worked to considerable extent on the estates of Bargany and Dalquharran. Steam-engines have been em- ployed at both collieries for a number of years. The sales are prin- cipally for home consumption ; but coals are also shipped from these collieries to Ireland and elsewhere. The gas which is used at Ayr is obtained from the Dalquharran parrot coal. The sales may amount annually to 20,000 tons. The cost of a ton at the pit head is about 4s. 8cl. or 5s. A ton weighs 24 cwt., and there are eight creels in a ton. It is singular that no coal has as yet been disco- vered to the west or south of this parish. There are two lime-works in the parish ; the one near the north-west extremity at Craighead, on the estate of Bargany ; the other near the south-east extremity, at Blairhill, on the estate of Kilkerran. Craighead is a vast un- broken mass of limestone, the dimensions of which are imperfectly known. Blairhill is a regularly stratified rock, lying betwixt beds of hard sandstone, with a moderate declivity from the surface. The DAILLT. 383 annual sale from these lime- works is about 100,000 bolls, each boll containing two Winchester bushels. The price of a boll is 8d. Limestone has also been recently found by Mr Kennedy of Dunure on his estate of Dalquharran, and in connection with his coal ; but the idea of working it has been abandoned. Beds of freestone are very numerous and extensive. Some of them are uncommonly fine, and are much esteemed in ornamental building. This freestone was used in building the houses of Kil- kerran, and Dalquharran in this parish, and of Blairquhan in the parish of Straiten. The whitest and most durable freestone is found along the centre of the coal-basin, and often forms the im- mediate roof of the upper seam of coal. The most valuable quar- ries lie along the base of the hills south of the coal-basin, parti- cularly on the estate of Kilkerran. Calcareous marl also abounds on both sides of the coal-basin, and is found in regular strata. It was formerly much used as a manure, but the superiority of lime for this purpose, and its abun- dance in the neighbourhood, have led to the disuse of marl. Many small chalybeate springs, scattered over different parts of the parish, seem to indicate the existence of extensive strata of ironstone. Such seams of ironstone as have been seen are gene- rally found at considerable depth, under the lowest seam of coal. Those that have been noticed in the roofs are thought to be rich, but, unless iron should rise to an enormous price, it is not considered that any advantage could accrue to the proprietor from working the ironstone. The coal in this parish is said to be par- ticularly adapted for making of iron. The principal ridge of hills on the south side of the valley ap- pears to consist chiefly of freestone, on which are piled up enor- mous masses of puddingstone. Those on the north side are pro- bably of a similar structure. On some of them are found exten- sive rocks of a basaltic nature in the rude and irregular form dis- tinguished by the name of trap. In none of these have mineral Teins of any kind of metal been discovered. The nature of the soil is as various as the surface is diversified. Along the banks of the river the holms and meadows, in some places of considerable extent, are generally of a light but very fer- tile soil, and capable of the highest cultivation. On the south side, the soil rests on a bottom of gravel, and is peculiarly favour* able for pasturage. On the north side, there is a larger admix- ture of clay in both the soil and the inferior strata. 384 AYRSHIRE. Botany. — Much attention has been paid to horticulture, in both its useful and its ornamental branches. Extensive shrubberies round the residences of several of the proprietors, are connected by pleasure walks with the woods and glens with which the parish abounds. Arboriculture has also greatly advanced of late years. Planting has been carried to a considerable extent on the estates of Bargany, Kilkerran, Dalquharran, and Drumburle. On that of Bargany alone no less than 666^ acres have been planted in the last thirty years. Timber of every kind congenial to the climate of Scotland thrives here luxuriantly, with the single exception of the Balm of Gilead fir. IL — Civil History. Land-ovmers. — The land-owners of the parish are, Henrietta Dal- rymple Hamilton Duchesse de Coigny, proprietress of Bargany ; Sir James Fergusson, of Kilkerran, Bart; Sir John Andrew Cathcart, of Carleton, Bart ; Thomas Francis Kennedy, of Dun- ure, Esq. ; Sir David Hunter Blair, Bart ; the Marquis of Ailsa^ and Spencer Boyd, of Penkill, Esq. The four proprietors first named have residences in the parish. There is also a mansion- house on the estate of Drumburle, belonging to Sir David Hun- ter Blair. At Kilkerran and Penkill there are ruins of castles which had been places of strength, particularly that at Kilkerran. They are both in very picturesque situations. Parochial Register. — The parochial registers, and the records of the kirk-session, have been uniformly kept together. They oc- cupy seven volumes. The first volume includes the period from April 1691 to the year 1711, and is perfectly legible, but in some places much decayed. There is reason to believe that, during the early parts of the last century, the registers were not accurately kept From the year 1751, every attention has been paid to them* Antiquities. — In regard to antiquities, this parish has little to boast of. At a place called Machry-kill, there was a small church or chapel, probably dedicated to St Macarius. Near the lower extremity of a wild and romantic dell, which adjoins to Kilkerran, and forms with its woods, rocks, and numerous cascades, a beau- tiful walk, there once stood a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. From this circumstance, the dell still retains the name of the Lady Glen. At the western extremity of the ridge of hills on the south side of the parish, there are the remains of an encamp- ment, 100 yards in length by 65 in breadth. It is of an oval form, and consists of two enclosures. The inner one is more en- DAILLY. * 385 tire than the outer. Neither of them extends the whole way round, the ground being particularly steep for about 50 yards on the face of the hill. The encampment commands a magnificent view, particularly of the Island of Arran ; and Turnberry Castle, in the parish of Kirkoswald, lies directly before it towards the north. It may therefore have been connected with the plans or move* ments of Robert Bruce. On the 5 th July 1836, a day which will be long remembered for the length and the violence of the thunder storm which raged over all the lowlands of Scotland, the lightning struck upon this hill in two different places, not far from the encampment. The fissures which it made are somewhat zig-zag, deeper at one extre- mity than any furrow of a plough, and extending about seven or eight yards. The ground below has the feeling of a collection of ashes. At Old Dailly, in a very sweet spot, are the ruins of the old parish church, which was left in 1696 for the more centrical situation which the church now occupies. Modem Buildings. — The buildings in the parish, besides those already mentioned, are two flour-mills, which go by water, two saw-mills, under wooden erections at the two collieries, impelled by the steam-engines there, a third saw-mill, in a different quarter, driven by water, and a brick-work connected with the colliery at Dalquharran. III. — Population. In 1801 the population was 1621 1811, - 1756 1821, . 2161 1831, . 2074 The decrease of the population since the census in 1831 is pro- bably to be ascribed to the discontinuance of the extensive im- provements which were for some time carried on by the landed proprietors. Emigration has not prevailed much in thi3 neigh- bourhood, but is upon the increase. Number of persons residing in the village • - - ^50 in other parts of the parish - 1 524 The average of births for the last seven years is - - 48 deaths, ..... 28 marriages, ..... 14 The number of persons under 15 rears of age is - - 858 « betwixt 15 and 30, • - -