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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I bn THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. VOL. VI. THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. BY THE MINI8TEB8 OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMHITTEB OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLEBQT. VOL. VI. UNABK. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. LANARK. ^^i-. CONTENTS. - -i > AVONDALE, PAGE 301 BERTRAM 8HOTT8, • 624 BIGOAR, 354 BLANTYRB, • 314 BOTHWBLL, 765 CADDBR, • 391 CAMBUSLANO, 416 CAMBU8NBTHAN, • 608 CARLUKE, . # . 563 CARMICHAEL, • 517 CARMUNNOCK, 597 CARNWATB, V 76 CARSTAIRS, 547 COVINGTON AND THANKERTON, ■ 872 CRAWFORDJOHN, 497 CRAWPURD, * 327 CULTER, 340 OALSBRP, • 719 DALZBLL, 442 DOLPHINTON, • 49 DOUGLAS, 477 DUNSYRE, • 64 BAST KILBRIDE, 877 6LASFORD, • 294 GLASGOW, 101 GO VAN, • 668 HAMILTON, 249 KILBRIDE, BAST, • 877 LANARK, 1 I.BSMAHAGOW, • 30 LIRBERTON AND QUOTHQUHAN, 41 MONKLAND, NEW, • 242 MONKLAND, OLD, 635 PBTTINAIN, • 535 RUTHERGLEN, 373 8HOTT8, • 624 STONBHOUSE, 468 SYMINGTON, ■ 867 WALSTON, 846 WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE, • 805 WISTON AND ROBERTON, 93 f t i • PARISH OF LANARK. PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. WILLIAM MENZIES, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. • Name and Baimdaries, — Some trace the origin of the name of this parish to the Latin terms Lana and arca^ quasi the wool'' chest; others to Lan-^mg^ the bank of the river ; or to the Gaelic words Lmu^ signifying a house, repository, or church, and deare^ a bilberry. A derivation equally probable is that given by Chalmers in his Caledonia ; namely, from Llannerch^ which in several places in Wales is applied to a slip of level ground, or a vale.* The parish lies pretty nearly in the centre of the county to which it gives its name. It is of an irregular oblong form ; in the south about 3, in the north about 5 miles broad. It is from 6 to 7 miles in length; and stretches along the eastern bank of the river Clyde, which separates it on the south from Pettinain and Car- michael, and on the west from Lesmahagoe. The adjacent parish on the north is Carluke, from which it is partly divjded by Mashoch burn. Carstairs bounds it on the east. The town of Lanark is situated in 55° 34' of north latitude, and 3° 5' of west longitude from Greenwich. It may be considered as the central town of the Lowlands, being 31 miles distant from Edinburgh, 35 from Stir- ling, 25 from Glasgow, and 47 from Ayr. Topographical Appearances, — The ground nowhere rises into any eminence deserving the name of a hill. It may be described in general as an elevated plateau, declining on the south and west towards the River Clyde, sometimes in gentle slopes, sometimes in steep declivities. From east to west, it is bisected by the deep and irregular valley of the Mouss. The flat uplands on * Several places in North Britain have the same name ; thus Ix^ndrich in Kil- madock ; Lendrich in Duroblanc ; Lendrich in Callander; Lendrich Hill in Fos- saway ; and Drumlanrig, the former seat of the Duke of Queensberry ; all these ac- cord with the colloquial name of Lanerk, and are prolwibly from the same British source. LANARK. A 2 LANARKSHIRE. either side of this valley, where they rise to the highest elevation at Lee moor on the north, and Lanark moor on the south, are pretty nearly of the same height, — being about 670 feet above the level of the sea. The same valley presents two very remarkable chasms. The river Mouss shortly after it enters the parish, near Cleghom, plunges into a deep ravine, which it seems to have formed through the solid rock as a channel for its waters. Lower down, and at little more than a mile from its junction with the Clyde, the river, abruptly leaving its direct course, although the comparative lowness of the ground seems favourable for its continuing in it, again, by a sudden bend, seeks its way in a deep chasm through the hill of Cartlane. This tremendous ravine is about half a mile in length. It is composed of two faces of irregular, precipitous and lofty rocks, and describes in its course a zig-zag line. Where- ever the cliffs come prominently forward upon the one side, there is a corresponding recession on the other. The north bank is about 400 feet high, the south is at least 100 feet lower. Va- rious conjectures have been proposed as to the manner in which this remarkable chasm was formed, but these it is unnecessary to discuss or to notice in this place. Meteorology-^Climaie. — Owing to the elevated situation of the parish, there is at times very intense frost. A gardener in the neighbourhood during several severe winters, comparing the cold here with simultaneous observations made at Edinburgh and Glas- gow, generally found it to be 10^ more intense than at either of the&e places. 'Jlliis applies, however, only to the uplands ; for in the lower situations, the frosts are less severe, and the snow dis- appears much sooner than in most of the surrounding districts ; and it is no uncommon thing to see the plough going on the banks of the Clyde, while the ground cannot be broken in the adjacent parishes. The seasons formerly varied with the soil along the banks of the river. Where the subsoil is a hard rock, and the soil itself light and gravelly, they were always remarkably early. But along the north and east sides of the parish they used once to be prover- bially late ; and there are persons still alive who have been known to engage themselves to do the harvest work consecutively in both situations in the same year. Since fencing, draining, and a better mode of cultivation, however, have been introduced, this variation has almost entirely disappeared. Its central situation saves the parish alike from the fogs of the eastern, as from the superabundant niins of the western coast. LANARK. 3 The atmosphere is much less hamid than at Glasgow, and even Hamilton* It has often been observed that not more than one out of five of the spring and autumnal showers which rise duly to windward pass over this parish, being either attracted by the range of mountains to the soqth, or by the high wet ground on the nortb-west ; and that the thunder storms which succeed the summer droughts commonly drench all the neighbouring districts before they reach this place. Hie prevailing winds are west and south. The latter is generally attended by rain. Any permanent drought usually begins with an east wind. • Diaeases.'-^Jjsjiaxk is celebrated, and deserves its reputation, as a remarkably healthy place, — an advantage for which it probably is indel^ad to its open, dry, and elevated situation, and the absence of all noxious effluvia. There is no endemical disease. Cases of wen soinetimes occur, and at particular seasons, especially in spring and autunm, the variation of the temperature and the prevalence of rain occasion all kinds of catarrhal complaints, such as colds, 9ore«throat, &c. and likewise diseases of the viscera, chest, and abdo- m^i often accompanied by fluxes and spasms. Typhus fever also prevails more or less at these seasons. Yet, on the whole, the quantity of disease is unusually smalL In the village of New La- nark, where the inhabitants are exclusively employed in the ma- nufacture of cotton yam, and exposed many hours at a time to the inhalation of an atmosphere loaded with cotton flocculi and dust, numerous cases of pulmonary disease might be expected. Yet, on consulting the medical records of that extensive establishment, such cases are found to be much rarer, in proportion to the number of the inhabitants, than in the neighbouring town. This may arise part- ly from the equable temperature which is maintained in the rooms of the manufactory, and partly from the low and sheltered situa- tion of the place, exposing the inhabitants less to the influence of those exciting causes which would bring the latent disease into action. Hydrography. — There is no extensive sheet of water in the pa- rish. Lang-loch, to the south-east, is the largest Hiere are places, however, which bear evident marks of having formerly been under water, particularly the low valley adjoining the house of Lee, amount- ing to more than 100 acres. The River Mouss, which we have mentioned as traversing the parish from east to west, has its source in the northern parts of Camwath moor. It draws its contributions principally from the 4 LANARKSHIRE. adjacent mosses, the dark colour of whose waters it retains, and to that circumstance has probably been indebted for its name. It is in general an insignificant stream, but is occasionally swelled by copious rains into a powerful torrent In summer, it is subject to such decrease, as scarcely to be sufficient for supplying the nume- rous mills erected upon its banks. Its course is irregular, westerly in its direction, with a slight inclination to the south. After emerg- ing from the rocks at Cleghorn, it finds a more expansive channel through finely wooded banks, steep upon the south, and gently slop- ing upon the northern side. On issuing from the Cartlane Craigs, it pursues but a brief course before it falls into the Clyde, opposite the village of Kirkfield-bank. Cartlane Craigs. — There are few specimens of rocky scenery in the country to be compared with the Cleghorn, but more especially the Cartlane Craigs. Even when seen from the walks which skirt the summit of the precipice on either side, they present the most romantic views of bold and lofty rocks, combined in endless va- riety with wood and water. But the traveller who visits this spot in sununer, (at which season alone the passage by the bed of the river is practicable,) and will submit to the toil of an occasional scramble over rocks, will enjoy the highest gratification. At every turn of the river, a new and varying scene of rocky grandeur, heightened by the accompaniments of the stream, and a rich and varied foliage, bursts upon the view. The popular tradition, that a cave in this ravine once aflTorded a refuge to the patriot Sir Wil- liam Wallace, gives additional interest to the scene. It also a few years ago received a new ornament by the erection of a bridge, which spans the chasm at its lower extremity, with three arches, and whose Roman simplicity and elegance are in the finest keeping with the scenery around. Cb/de. — The Clyde is here a large and beautiful river. It ap- proaches the parish from the east with a scarcely perceptible mo- tion, after flowing through a long track of holm land, which, being very little elevated above the bed of the stream, is liable occasion- ally to be overflowed, and seems to have once formed the bottom of an extensive lake, before the waters had worn their channel sufli- ciently deep to drain it. It then takes a long sweep towards the south and south-west with a more accelerated motion ; the high grounds advance on each side, and the channel becomes uneven and rocky. But upon passing Hyndford Bridge, it assumes its former placid aspect, and, receiving a considerable augmentation from one of its LANARK. 5 principal tributaries, the Douglas Water, soon reaches the Boning« ton Fall, where, in a divided stream, it is abruptly precipitated over a ledge of rocks of about thirty feet of perpendicular height Its channel from this point, for &bout half a mile, is formed of a range of perpendicular and equidistant rocks on either side, which are from 70 to 100 feet high, and which Mr Pennant has well characterized as stupendous natural masonry. At Corehouse it encounters an- other fall 84 feet in height, and immediately assumes a more tran- quil character until it reaches a small cascade called Dundaf Lin, about a quarter of a mile farther down. The banks now slope more gently, sometimes covered with natural wood, and sometimes cul- tivated to the water's edge. This character it preserves for a dis- tance of about three or four miles, until it reaches Stonebyres, where it passes through another rocky ridge, and projects itself in three leaps over a precipice of 80 feet in height In its farther course, which extends about a mile and a-half in this parish, the stream in general flows quietly between gently sloping and beauti- fully wooded banks. Hie breadth and depth of the river vary at difierent places. At the broadest a stone may be thrown across ; and there is a spot between the Bonington and Corra Falls where the whole volume of its waters is so confined between two rocks, that an adventurous leaper has been known to clear it at a bound. There are fords which children can wade across, and pools which have never been fathomed* The scenery along the banks of the Clyde is acknowledged to be scarcely equalled in this country, and rarely surpassed abroad. It has for a long period attracted multitudes of admiring visitors during the fine season, and still continues to be as much visited as ever. The country above the falls is comparatively tame and un- interesting. But from that point nothing can surpass the variety and beauty of the prospects, which successively present themselves to the eye of the traveller. fVaterfaUs, — The waterfalls, however, are the chief objects of attraction. The uppermost, called the Bonington Fall, is about two miles and a-half distant from Lanark. The way lies for the most part through the beautiful grounds of Bonington ; and, with a libe- rality worthy of imitation, the Ross family, to whom the property belongs, allow free access on every day but the Sabbath, and at all hours, to the public, who find tasteful walks kept in the highest order, and seats at every fine point of view for their accommodation. 6 LANARKSHIRE. The upper is perhaps the least beanttful of the falls, owing to its smaller height, and to the bareness of the southern bank above it. Still, when seen from the point at which it first bursts upon the view, it is very imposing ; and the present proprietor. Lady Mary Ross, by means of a bridge thrown across the north branch of the stream, immediately above the precipice, and points of observation happily selected, has secured some charming coups (Toeil to the ad- mirers of nature. The Corra Lin, which is about half a mile far- ther down, is generally allowed to be the finest of the three. Un- til a few years ago, this splendid cascade could only be seen ttom above. But fine although it must ever be from whencesoever con-- templated, all former views of it were greatly inferior to one which the present proprietor has opened up. A flight of steps has been formed along the face of the opposite rock. By this, the traveller descends into a deep and capacious amphitheatre, where he finds himself exactly in front, and on a level with the bottom of the fall. The foaming waters, as they are projected in a double leap over the precipice, the black and weltering pool below, the magnificent range of dark perpendicular rocks 120 feet in height, which sweeps around him on the left, the romantic banks on the opposite side, the river, calmly pursuing its onward course, and the rich garniture of wood with which the whole is dressed, combine to form a spec- tacle with which the most celebrated cataracts in Switzerland and Sweden will scarcely stand a comparison. The lower or Stonebyres Fall, so named from the adjacent estate of Stonebyres, belonging to the ancient family of Vere, it is unnecessary to describe. It has great similarity in many of its features to the Corra Lin, and it is sufficient to say, that, in the opinion of many it is even superior in beauty. Geology. — The parish lies upon a mass of old red sandstone, which probably forms the basis of the country to the south and east. This mass is composed of strata from a few inches to many feet in thickness, having a considerable declination towards the east, but upon the surface they generally follow the declination of the ground in which they are situated. It is also divided by perpendi- cular fissures, which become less perceptible as they descend be- low the influence of the sun and air. In some places it is likewise traversed by narrow dikes of trap rock, sinking perpendicularly, and cutting the general stratification nearly at right angles. The trap rock of these dikes is often disintegrated, or if solid, appearing comi)osed of a congeries of elliptical balls, and has evidently been LANARK. 7 in a state of fusion at the time of its formation. Many of the internal crevices are filled with heavy spar, some of which is found in a ^tate of complete crystallization. On the lands of Jer- viswood, a thick vein of quartz, intermixed with small veins of rich iron ore, was discovered many years ago, which for some time raised sanguine expectations that lead or other valuable minerals would be found in its neighbourhood. But these expectations have not yet been realized. The surface of the rock is very rugged and un- even, consisting of several conical eminences, which sometimes rise with a gentle ascent, and sometimes abruptly terminate, forming precipices of several hundred feet in height No beds of coal have hitherto been discovered in the parish, except- ing at the north-west end, where it encroaches for about half a mile upon a coal district, and where all the minerals common to that district are found to crop out, but in such shallow strata as to ren- der their workingimpracticable. Carboniferous limestone is wrought in considersd>le quantities in Craigend-hill, on the north-west cor* ner of the parish, accompanied by a small seam of coal, but which does not yield sufficient to bum the limestone. Nodules of clay- ironstone are likewise found here imbedded in clay. Specimens of petrified wood have also been met with in the limestone rock. Small detached pieces of jasper have been picked up in the bed of the Mouss, vnth ochre, and several other mineral productions, which have probs^ly been carried down by the river from the upper part of the country. A detached and water-worn piece of limestone was found near the old bridge upon the Gyde, containing petrified shells resembling on a general view pholades and cockles. Masses of freestone are frequent near the Chapel on the lands of Nemphlar, and near Moussbank, where a quarry was opened some years ago, but which has since been abandoned. Several attempts have been made to discover coal upon the estate of Lee, and upon Lanark moor, hitherto without success. Few places present more evident traces of a deluge than the pa- rish of Lanark* Hills of gravel, beds of clay, banks of sand, and large masses of mud, are heaped together in the wildest confusion. The uneven nature of the surface would naturally produce different currents, which, meeting together, would form, at their junction, beds of gravel; and, in the eddies betwixt them, banks of sand. In more still water, mud or clay would be deposited according as the waters were charged with a greater or less proportion of sand. This arrangement is very conspicuous along the banks of the Mouss and 8 LANARKSHIRE. Clyde, from the Hyndford Bridge on the latter, but more espe- cially at their confluence. Where the waters flowed over a less rugged surface, a sort of hard till has been deposited, which is scarcely pervious to water, and consequently renders the soil more unproductive. Upon examining twenty stones taken promiscuously from a gravel pit, there were found ten of the common red sandstone, five of a hard kind of sandstone, and the other five of various kinds, some of which are not found in masses in any part of the neigh- bourhood. Detached pieces of granite are also found here, which, notwithstanding their hardness, have all the asperities rounded ofi*, proving that they must have rolled from a vast distance ; and in- deed no rocks of the kind are known to exist within many miles of the parish. These rocks are very much prized for curling-stones. Marl has also been found at Bonington and Sunnyside, but has not been dug to any extent Soil. — From what has been said, it is obvious that the soil mu9t vary with the subsoil. Accordingly, along the west end of the pa- rish for nearly a mile in breadth, it is generally composed of a stiff* clay. Along the banks of the rivers it is light and gravelly. In the east it is wet and clayey. Nemphlar and Cartlane moors con- sist of a hard till, and this soil prevails more or less in all high and exposed situations. It is the most stubborn of all kinds of soil, ,and has longest resisted the efforts of the farmer. But in every part of the parish, sometimes even in the same field, all the different varieties of soil are found. In Lanark moor, in the low grounds adjoining the house of Lee, and elsewhere, some inconsiderable beds of moss are met with. Zoology. — The only cattle bred here are horses and cows, all of the best kinds, for draught and dairy, which are sold young. There are no sheep kept but by gentlemen for their private use. The only fish in the Mouss are minnow and trout. In the Clyde, besides these, there are pike, eels, and very rarely perch. The Stonebyres Fall arrests the further ascent of salmon. For- merly two or three individuals in the town of Lanark used to pick up a livelihood by catching and selling fish, but their business has been much injured, and the sport ruined for amateur anglers, by the numbers, who, owing to the dulness of trade, now engage in it, and by the new and deadly tackle which they employ. The common insects are wasps, gad-flies, gnats, and the goose- berry, apple, and cabbage caterpillar. The cabbage caterpillar is destroyed by sprinkling with powdered lime ; the gooseberry ca- LANARK. 9 terpillar, by searching the centre of the bush near the ground at the time when the leaves expand, and picking off such as are found riddled, and full of holes. The apple and pear caterpillars are of two kinds, the one a small green worm, with a black head, that breeds in the blossom-bud and consumes its heart ; the bud does not expand, but soon turns brown, and then the tree is said to be fired. The cobweb, or, as it is called in some places, the cotton caterpillar, is sometimes so very destructive, that the trees in the month of June appear as bare as in January ; if picked off once a-day at the opening of the season they may be destroyed ; as they surround themselves with a round ball of cobweb, they are easily seen, and a few boys would soon clear an orchard. The small black-headed caterpillar is less easily overcome ; it does its mischief before the blossom expands. Mr Sinclair, late gardener at Bonington, discovered a method, by which for many years he effectually saved his trees and bushes from these destructive insects. It is to mix sifted lime in a tub with water, and by means of a gardener's engine to project this with force upon the plants ; in this manner, the moss upon the branches in which insects harbour is destroyed. Botany. — The recesses of Cartlane Craigs present a rich va- riety of plants to the botanist; among which may be named Berheria tndgarisy Pyrola rotundifolia^ Pyrola mirior, ScLxifraga oppositofolia and granulaia^ Prunus padus^ Bird Cherry or Hawk- berry, Spirea salicifoliay Mubus saxatilis^ Ci$tu$ Helianthemum^ Aquilegia vulgaris^ Cardamine impatiens^ Geranium lucidum, Oro^ bus sglvaticusy Vicia sylvatica, Doronicum pardalianches. There are said to be a considerable variety of mosses of rare species above the falls. There are several large plantations in the parish, consisting chiefly of Scotch, larch, and spruce fir. The grounds of Lee, Bo- nington, and Cleghom are ornamented with fine old trees, such as oak, beech, larch, and lime. The banks of the Clyde and Mouss are covered with natural wood of various kinds, viz. oak, ash, hazel, birch, alder, hawkberry, hawthorn, and mountain-ash. Close to the House of Lee are two trees which deserve par- ticular mention. The first is an oak of prodigious size. Accord- ing to a late measurement, it was found to be 60 feet of perpendi- cular height, and 30 in circumference, and to contain 1460 cubic feet of wood. It is called the Pease tree ; is understood to be a relict of the ancient Caledonian forest, and still continues to ve- 10 LANARKSHIRE. getate, although its huge trunk is hollowed to such a degree that ten persons have been crammed into the excavation. The other is a magnificent larch, said to have been one of the firs brought into this country; it is 100 feet in height, and 18 in girth, containing 320 cubic feet of timber. IL — Civil History. Historical Notices. — There does not exist any ancient account of this parish. The town is acknowledged to be of very great an-p tiquity ; but all the information we possess with respect to it in former ages, consists in a few rare and incidental notices scattered throughout the general histories of the country. It is supposed to be the Colaenia of Ptolemy; a Roman road having passed through, or near it, to its castle, on the south-^west side. In subset quent ages, it must have been a place of considerable importance, as may be inferred from the fact recorded by Buchanan, that, in the year 978^ Kenneth II. here held an assembly of the states of the realm. That it was a royal town at a very early period is certain ; for Malcolm IV., in granting a toft in Lanark, speaks of it as in hurgo meo ; and William, the successor of Malcolm, also designates it his burgh. It possesses charters ; the original one erecting it into a royal burgh was granted by Alexander I.; there is also one by Robert L, dated at Linlithgow, the fourth year of his reign ; another without date, by Alexander III. ; a fourth by the same monarch in the thirteenth year of his reign ; there are besides two by James V. ; and a final one, confirmatory of all the rest, given by Charles L, and bearing date 20th February 1632. Chalmers is certainly wrong, when he says in his Caledonia, that ^^ we hear nothing of any royal castle or place of royal resi- dence in this city." On a small artificially-shaped hill, between the town and the river, at the foot of the street called Castle Gate, and still bearing the name of the Castle hill, there stood in former times beyond all doubt a royal castle. Tradition ascribes it to David I. It was the place from which the charter of William the Lion, in favour of the town of Ayr, was dated in 1197. In the treaty ne- gotiated in 1298, respecting the marriage of the niece of King Philip of France, with the son and heir of John Baliol, the Castle or Castelany of Lanark was mortgaged as part of the security for the lady's jointure. We hear of it as being in the thirteenth century in the hands of English soldiers. Besides, there are places in the LANARK. 1 1 neigbbourfaood of the town which, even to thisday, bear the names of Kng-son's Know, King-son's Moss, King-son's Stane, which seems to &Tour the tradition, that it was once a place of royal residence. We have already mentioned the circumstance related by Bu- ehanan, although passed over in silence by Fordun, of Kenneth II. haTing in 978 summoned at Lanark a convention of the estates of the realm ; the first of which there is any record in histor}'. In 1244, Lanark was burnt to the ground ; a fate which befell several other towns at the same period, and to which they were liable from having been then built of wood. In 1297 it was the seene of the first military exploit of Sir William Wallace, who there slew William de Hesliope or Heselrigg, the English she- riff and expelled his soldiers from the town. It seems to have been a garrisoned place in 1310, for we read of its having then surrendered to King Robert Bruce, with Dumfries, Ayr, and the Isle of Bute. Chi the 12th of January 1682, the Covenanters here published a declaration, which Wodrow calls the first essay of the ** societies united into a correspondence.'' This act roused the indignation of the Privy-Council, who fined the town 6000 merks, and issued processes against the freeholders for not preventing it, nor seizing the parties concerned in it. Several persons were exe- cuted at the place about the same time, and among the rest Wil- liam Hervie, who was charged with being at Bothwell Bridge, and publishing Wood's declaration. The grave of this person is still seen in the churchyard of the parish, and is an object of great reve- rence. Lanark formerly enjoyed the privilege of keeping the standard weights of the kingdom. An act of Parliament in 1617 narrates, that of old, the keeping and out-giving of the weights to the burghs and others was committed to this town, and charges it again with the " care of the weights." The old standards are still preserved. They are stamped with a spread eagle, with two heads, the arms of the burgh, although some have supposed this to be a foreign mark. In 1790, they were measured by Professor Robi- son of Edinburgh; and, for the second time, about ten years subse- quently, for the purpose of rectifying those of Edinburgh. It was then discovered that the pound had lost something less than seven grains English Troy, weighing 76 13 instead of 7620 grains, which, in terms of the act of Parliament 1618, it ought to have contained. Dr Ilobison says, that this standard is better ascertained than any other in Europe, except that of Brussels, and its copy at Paris. 12 LANARKSHIRE. At the time of the unioD, a new set of weights was sent from Lon- don to the burgh. They are of very handsome workmanship, and are thus dated, "Primo Maii Anno Dom. 1707— A.R.— An.IUgni vi." But by the act of 1826, these have been superseded by the in- troduction of the imperial standard, and the ancient prerogative of the town disannulled ; every burgh and county having been enjoin- ed to procure and keep a set of standard weights. Eminent Men. — Sir William Wallace was connected with this parish, having resided in the town after his marriage with the co- heiress of Lamington. — James Birnie, secretary to John Cassimir, King of Poland, was the son of Mr William Birnie, who was ap- pointed minister of Lanark in 1597. — Sir William Lockhart of Lee, a great statesman and general under the Protector, and after- wards Lord Justice- Clerk, was bom in the parish, and received the first rudiments of education at the school of Lanark. — The estate of Jerviswood was the family property of Robert Baillie the martyr. In the mansion-house, which is now fallen into decay, he found con- cealment from the pursuit of his enemies, and is said to have owed nis life upon one occasion, to a spider, which spun its web over the door of the oven in which he was lurking, thus averting the sus- picions of the soldiers. — Lithgow, the traveller, was born in this parish, and lies buried in the churchyard ; but the site of his grave is unknown. — Dr William Smellie, the celebrated accoucheur; and the learned and ingenious General Roy, were both educated at Lanark school, to which the former left as a memorial his va- luable library, with L. 200 to build a room for its accommodation. — Robert Macqueen, Lord Justice- Clerk for Scotland, was born in the parish, and educated at the^ schools of Lanark. — Sir John Lockhart Ross, so renowned in the naval chronicles of Great Britain, as captain of the Tartar, although bom in the adjacent parish of Carstairs, acquired by his marriage with the late Lady Ross Baillie, the beautiful property of Bonington in Lanark parish, where he built the present mansion-house, and occasionally resided. — Among other celebrated men, we must not omit the excellent and pious Mr David Dale, founder of the village and manufactory- of New-Lanark; nor his son-in-law, Robert Owen, who here exco- gitated and made an abortive attempt to reduce to practice, his wild theories for the renovation of society. Land-owners. — The principal land-owners are Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart of Lee ; Lady Mary Ross of Boning- ton ; Mrs Elliot Lockhart of Cleghorn ; George Baillie, Esq. of LANARK. 13 Jerviswood; Thomas Young Howison, Esq. of Hyndford; the Misses Carmichael of Smyllum Park ; Walker and Company of New Lanark ; Sir Richard Honyman of Huntly Hill ; Archibald Nesbit, Esq. of Carfin ; Alexander Gillespie, Esq. of Sunnyside. Besides these, there are 65 smaller heritors in the out-parish, and 100 in the in-parish, possessing burgh lands. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers consist of 14 vo- lumes ; 7 of births, and 7 of marriages. The date of the earliest entry is 1647. The session records reach no farther back than 1699. Antiquities. — The Castle- Hill, which we have already mention- ed as a small mount in the immediate vicinity of the town, towards the river, is supposed to have been originally a Roman castellum ; and General Roy mentions a fine silver Faustina as having been found here. But at present there is scarcely left a single vestige either of the ancient Roman work, or of the royal castle, which in later times occupied its site. It has been converted into a bowl- ing-green. There are remains of two Roman camps in the neighbour- hood of Lanark. The most considerable is not far from Cleg- horn-house, and was thought by Greneral Roy to have been the work of Agricola. It measures 600 yards in length, and 420 iii breadth, and at the south-west angle has a small post or redoubt. The other is situated upon the Lanark moor, on the opposite side of the MoiLSs, and is within a mile of one in the adjoining parish of Carstairs, apparently of later construction, and of which the vestiges are much more distinct Through this passed the great Roman road from Carlisle to the wall of Antoninus, leaving the camp at Cleghom upon the right. About half a mile below Lanark, upon an elevated situation on the banks of the Mouss, stands the picturesque remnant of a lofty tower, of which little or nothing is known. The eminence is called Castle Hill, and from it the Lockharts of Cambusnethan take their title. On the very brink of Cartlane Craigs, and overhanging a pre- cipice of above 200 feet of perpendicular height, are to be seen the vestiges of an old stronghold, called by some the Castle of the Quaw, probably from the Gaelic cuas or cave. Neither history nor tradition has preserved any record of what this was, or of the date of its erection. And it is only remarkable for certain subter- raneous caves or arched ways of rather a singular description, which have probably given the place its name. One of them was ex- 14 LANARKSHIRE. plored by Mr Lookhart, who has given a description of it in the former Statistical Account. He there ai^es, from the absence of all traces of lime, that it must have been of a date anterior to the in- troduction of the use of mortar by the Romans. Another person to whom it was shown was of a different opinion, and says, that the arch appeared to him more like the work of some cow-herd boy than anything else. Old Church. — About a quarter of a mile to the south-east of the town, and seen from all the country around, rise the beautiful ruins of the old parish church. There still remain traces to show that it must have been a building of great elegance. Six fine Gothic arches, supporting a wall which seems to have separated the body of the church from a side aisle, along its whole length, are at pre- sent standing. It is altogether unknown by whom, and at what exact period this fabric was erected ; but Chalmers, in his Cale- donia, has collected some interesting particulars with respect to it which had previously fallen into oblivion. It appears to have been in existence at the beginning of the twelfth eentury, before the re-establishment of the bishoprick of Glasgow by Prince David, and was dedicated to Kentigem, the patron saint of that city, and founder of the episcopate. In 1150, David L granted it, with its tithes and pertinents, to the monastery of Dryborough, — a grant which subsequent monarchs successively confirmed, and which was afterwards extended to a chapel at Cleghorn. In 1297, Blind Harry alludes to it, making his hero pass << On from the kirk that was without the town.** The canons of Dryborough continued in possession of it, drew the revenues, and served the cure by establishing a vicarage until the period of the Reformation. In 1689-90, the presbytery passed a resolution " that the kirk of Lanerk should be removed from the auld place to a situation within the town." — " Notwithstanding of this resolution," says Chalmers, ^< the kirk still remains in the old place, and continued to be the parish church until 1777, when a new one was built in the middle of the town." Long before this period, however, it had fallen into a ruinous state, and had ceas- ed to be used for public worship. The inhabitants of the town attended Divine service in the chapel of St Nicholas, which de- volved to the burgh at the Reformation, and in which the lofts and galleries were set apart for the magistrates and corporations. It seems impossible to ascertain at what precise period the old church was abandoned as a place of public worship. In former 4 LANARK. 15 times it seems to have had various altars ; one consecrated to the holy cross, was styled the Ruid Altar, and another to the Virgin, Our Lady's Altar. To the chaplain who served the latter, James IV, granted in mortmain a tenement in Lanark, which had fallen to him by royal right The charter is thus noted in the general index of charters in the Register office. ^^ Willielmo Clerkson, capellano moderno ad altare gloriosissimce Virginis Mariae, infra ecclesiam parochialem de Lanark," dated Lanark, 16th October 1500. lo' the reign of Robert IIL John Simpson, a burgess of the town, founded and endowed a chaplainary in this church. The ground around it continues as of old to be the parish cemetery. For a num- ber of years it was abandoned to shameful neglect ; and the hands of mischievous boys co-operated with time in accelerating the de- struction of the Venerable ruin. Its appearance has also suffered very materially by the erection of an ugly square tower in the centre, for the accommodation of grave«watchers. But better feeUngs have lately prevailed. The churchyard has been enclosed with a wall; and a small fund was raised for the purpose of using means to prevent the total dilapidation of the ancient pile. Considera- ble repairs were made, which it is hoped will uphold it a century or two longer to grace the spot where so many generations of La- narkers repose. * Before the Reformation there were various chapels in this pa- rish, of which, however, there remain at the present day scarcely any other memorial than the tradition of their existence, and the names which they have given to the spots at or near which they were situated, f * If Uie dead were conscious of what takes place above them, the ashes of at least one of the sleepers in this churchyard must have been disturbed by the profiuiations which used to take pbuse in iL I allude to Mr William Bimie* of whom it is said in Nesbit*s Heraldry, that when of age, and after three years study abroad* he was, upon the fiBth of Beoember 1507, presented by King James VI. to the parish of Lanark. An interesting reprint of an old and learned work of this person, entitled ** The Blame of Kirk Burial, tending to persuade to Cemeterial Cirilitie," has late- ly been made by William TumbuU, Esq. advocate. The author, in quaint but powerful language, inveighs against the practice of burying in the area of churches, but delivers many admirable sentiments on the honour due to the resting-places of the dead. It would uppear that in hia day the ccelesiastioal profession required more various and extensive accomplishments than are now deemed necessary, or even be- coming in clergymen. For it is said of Mr Birnie, '* that he not only learnedly preached the gospel in this parish* but, because of the several quarrels and feuds amongst the gentlemen, was obliged many times, as he well could, to make use of his sword." •f- Some notices respecting the chapds of St Nicholas, St Leonards, and the cha- pels at Cleghorn and East Nemphlar, will be found in the original MS. 16 LANARKSHIRE. In the mansion-house at Bonington lare preserved a few inte- resting relics of Sir William Wallace, of whose family the Rosses claim to be the representatives in the female line. These were brought from the old castle of Lamington* A portrait there shows the chieftain in look and features much as he is repre- sented in the conunon pictures. There is also a broad oakeu seat, which has borne from time immemorial the name of Wallace's Chair. The four large posts which compose its frame-work, and of which the two at the back are considerably higher than those in front, are the only parts which }iave any claim to antiquity, and certainly are sufficiently rude for the fourteenth century. All the rest together, with the bear skin with which it has been covered, are modem additions. A third object is a small oaken cup, called Wallace's quaigh, evidently of very great antiquity. * Lee-penny. — The most celebrated antiquity, however, which we have to mention is the Lee-penny. This is a small triangular stone, of what kind, a lapidary, to whom it was shown, confessed himself unable to determine. In size, it is about half an inch on each side, and is set in a piece of silver coin, which, from the traces of a cross still discernible, is supposed to be a shilling of Edward the First. The traditional history of this gem is as follows : — King Robert Bruce had ordered, that after his death his heart should be carried to the Holy Land, and one of those who joined the expedition, ap- pointed to carry the royal wish into effect, was Sir Simon Lockard of Lee. To defray his expenses, he borrowed a sum of money from Sir William de Lindsay, prior of Ayre, to whom he granted a bond of annuity for L. 10 upon his estate of Lee. This bond, bearing date ^323, is still preserved amongst the family papers. As a memorial of his services upon this occasion, the family name of Locard was changed into Lock-heart or Lockhart, and he ob- Among the minor antiquities may be mentioned the church bell. It was removed from the old to the present parish church, and has been several times refbunded. It bears the date of these. The first is so early as 1110 ; the second 1659 ; and the last 1740. * Its history is thus recorded in verse upon the silver hoop which encircles the edge :— At Torwood I was cut from that known tree. Where Wallace from warres toyls took sanctarie. For Mars's sonnes I'm only now made fitt. When with the sonnes of Bacchus they shall sitt. Sir Walter Scott, in the Tales of a Grandfather, mentions his having forty years ago examined the roots of the oak |iere alluded to, which at that time were all that remain- ed of it« LANARK. 17 tained for arms a heart within a lock, with the motto, Corda serata pando. Sir Simon is said in this journey to have taken prisoner a Saracen chief, for whose Uberty his lady offered a large sum of money. In countinfif it out, she happened to drop the gem from her purse, and showed such eagerness in recovering it as drew the ioiight's attention, and raised his curiosity to learn what it was« Being told of its remarkable virtues, he refused to liberate the husband, unless it were added to the ransom. With this demand the lady unwillingly complied, and thus the talisman came into the possession of the family with whom it has ever since remained. Formerly it bore a very high and extensive celebrity for extraor- dinary medicinal properties. Water in which it had been but dipt was supposed to be an effectual remedy for all diseases of cattle, and has been sent for as far as the northern counties of England. It was also considered to be a specific against hydrophobia. The most remarkable instance of its efficacy in that distemper was the cure of a Lady Baird of Saughton-hall, near Edinburgh, who, by using draughts and baths of it, recovered from the bite of a mad dog, after, it is said, hydrophobia had actually begun. When the plague was last at Newcastle the inhabitants borrowed the Lee- penny, giving a large sum in trust for the loan, and so convinced were they of its good effects, that they were willing to forfeit the deposit and retain possession.* • Variuus, of course, are the opinions held as to whether these virtues arc real or imaginary, natural or miraculous. The following authority uj>on the nulyect is pes- haps curious enough to deserve a place :-^ *' Copy of an Act of the Synode and Assembly apud Glasgow the 2jth of October, Synode Session 2d. *' Quhilk daye aniongest the referies of the Brethcrn of the ministric o( Lanark, it va j In 1796 - 4761 ^ T«kcn by Mr Meiixiet. In 1800 . . . 5103) In 1811 - . - . 0067 In 1821 .... 75; t/ital, 767'2. TW zx'SiZjrr^ kzi'. i/irfr^x^ of independent fortune in the [#amh uuuiL i: I*X Titer* fcr»r 5^- ^•rr^r^ »iiO p«:*s^e«f land of the yearly %aiue '/f l54' fisr -TiTiiTCia- — >=sjit-? the buri^ of Lanark, and tl*e ^>w>- i:*- n -UK jamii.. - . - , J >4r/ TiiMit" ezxujii*>«c iL tniQfi:.. cia£.ufaie*.uf««- or icv^Oi*:?!!^. J ;y7 ^ — ■ * * ^- nit '. cmttuit if 'Jt^. f*:kt^^ — VfUltLlfeit - - •:r-t'"%**c ai- & icuiitao ir lyir *-"' -*^'~ '■^^' ^ .... -,^ .»-«^>. r 'r- 20 LANARKSUIRE. and sergeants. The great and little palm branches of the Salix caprcBa in flower, and decked with a profusion of daffodils, were carried behind him. A handsome embroidered flag, the gift of a lady in the town to the boys, was used on this festival. The day concluded with a ball. On the Lanemar or Landmark-day, there are processions to in- spect the marches of the town lands. As a method of impressing the boundaries upon the memory, all persons who attend for the first time are ducked in the river Mouss, in the channel of which one of the march-stones is placed : and horse and foot races take place upon the moor. It is a day of great festivity. The people are, upon the whole, cleanly in their habits. But the late severe depression in the weaving trade has reduced great num- bers to such a state of destitution as calls for the liveliest sympathy. They not only want decent clothing, but can hardly procure sufficient food. At the cotton-works the people are well dressed, and live in general very comfortably. In all parts of the parish, oat-meal porridge for breakfast, potatoes with herrings for dinner, and again porridge or potatoes for supper, form the usual diet of the labour- ing-classes. Tea is used whenever it can be afforded. Poaching prevails to a considerable extent, with its usual bad effects. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rui^al Economy, — As much of the land in the parish, both arable, waste, and in wood, has never been measured, it is only by approximation that the following results have been obtained : Arable ncres, Scotch statute measure, GoOO Uncultivated, - - 1200 Town common, - - 600 Under wood, - - - GOO Planted as orchards, - _ ,*)<> Of late years there has been very little planting in this parish, and that little confined to the estates of Lee and Cleghorn. An intelligent nurseryman in the place says, that the forest trees plant- ed in the whole of the upper ward of Lanarkshire amount to 700,000 and 900,000 annually for the last ten years. These have been in the proportion of two parts of larch to one of spruce and Scotch fir. The larch is found to grow best upon the hi^h lands, and is of more value to the planter, and hence is now in far greater demand than about twenty-five years ago. Little oak, ash, elm, or hard-wood, of any kind is planted, except in the more shel- LANARK. 21 tered situations, as it is found they seldom come to perfection on the light heathy lands. Renty Prices^ Wages^ S^c. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1, ds. per Scotch statute acre ; the average price of a cow's grazing on good land, L. 4; on inferior, L. 1, 10s. ; that of an ox varies from L. 3 to L. 3, 10s. The common labourer's wages is 9s. per week; Women get Is. per day. Breeds of Live Stock. — There are no store-farms in the parish. The cattle are all of the Ayrshire breed, and, owing to the pre- miums given by the agricultural societies, they are greatly improved. Husbandry. — A great part of the arable land is said to be unfit for green crop. After four or five years pasture, it is top-dressed and two crops of oats taken, with the last of which grass seeds are sown. It is then again pastured for four or five years. About a fourth part of it, however, is of a very superior description. It is cultivated with a rotation of fouf years — 1st, oats ; 2d, green crop, consisting of potatoes, turnips, or beans; 3d, wheat or barley; 4th, hay. It is then pastured one or two years, but in many cases not at alL The land of the orchards is generally cropped in a simi- lar manner, but is dug instead of being ploughed ; and, instead of its being pastured, a hay crop is taken. A good deal has been done in the way of irrigation, principally at Cleghorn, and likewise in draining at the joint expense of land- lord and tenant. The leases being for nineteen years are favourable to the occu- pier, and the rents are in general well paid. The farms are all small, and the buildings and enclosures indifierent Quarry. — There is only one lime quarry in the parish, which is wrought partly by open cast, and partly by mining. It produces 7000 bolls annually, and has a seam of coal eighteen inches thick, capable of burning about one-third part of the lime. Produce. — As various courses of cropping are adopted, and the land is of very unequal quality, the average value of the gross produce can only be given in a very vague approximation : Grain, - I.. 15»500 Green crop, . 2,276 Hay, - - 1,625 Pasture, - - 3,287 Orchards," - - 300 PlantatioiiB, - . 600 Liinc, - - 700 L. 24287 • Fifteen vears ago, the orchards would have brought double the sum j but of Inte, 22 LANARKSHIRE. Manufactures. — Cottan-spinninff. — The principal manufacture in the parish is cotton-spinning at New Lanark. The establish- ment formerly acquired very extensive notoriety, under the super- intendence of Mr Robert Owen, son-in-law of David Dale, the original founder. But in 1827, that gentleman ceased to have any interest in the business, which has since been carried on under the firm of Walker and Company. There are 1110 persons employed in this manufacture, of whom about 60 are mechanics and labourers. Children are not admitted into the factory under ten years of age. The hours of work are eleven and a quarter daily throughout the year, whatever be the state of trade. The people are very comfortably supported, — are in general healthy, — and, in comparison with other establishments of the kind, remarkably decent in behaviour. Weaving, — Another extensive branch of manufacture in the parish is weaving, in which 873 persons are engaged ; 702 in the town, and 171 in the country. This trade is at the very lowest ebb, and scarcely yields the means of support to those who are employed in it. There are a few of the weavers who, being in the prime of life, and endowed with superior strength and skill, can gain 8s. a-week ; but to do this, they must sit from fourteen to sixteen hours a-day, and the exertion soon ruins the health of the most robust. The common wages scarcely average 6s. per week, from which a drawback must be made of Is. 3d. ; lOd. for loom-rent, 3d. for light, and 2d. for carriage of the web. Men advanced in life, dispirited by the remembrance of better times, may make about 3s. 6d. The only addition to this miserable pit- tance is what their wives can earn by winding the waft upon pirns, and which varies from 6d. to Is. 3d. per week.* When thre^ or four in one family are employed, and the joint gains are under the management of a thrifty wife, they are able to make a tolerable shift. But nothing can exceed the misery of those who have themselves and a family to support by their single- handed industry. The misery they have suffered has had the un- happy but too common effect of plunging some of them into care- less and dissipated habits ; but the majority are well behaved and intelligent men, and bear their hardships with commendable pa- thc value of fruit has been gradually falling, partly owing to the larger quantities produced, and partly to its being brought from other districts to Glasgow by means of steam-vessels, with greater safety and expedition than formerly. * Since the above was written, the condition of the weavers has been considerably improved,— in consequence of the cheapness of provisions, a greater supply of work, and a hmall advance on the p rice of the yard. LANARK. 23 tieuce. The following fact will illustrate the melancholy depres- sion of this branch of industry. On Martinmas fair day 1812, a general strike took place, and continued for nine weeks, because a certain description of work, 1200 policuts, fell from 8d. to 6d. per yard. For the last three years, the same description of work has been, upon an average, at l^d. Accustomed at the former pe- riod to better days, the weaver believed that 6d..was too low a rate to afford him a livelihood, and it is only because it came upon them gradually that they have been able to survive the present depres- sion. Forced by the pressure of immediate want, they are accus- tomed to put their children of both sexes upon the loom at the early age of nine or twelve, by which means their numbers are con- tinually augmenting, and the evil is increased. Shoemaking^ Sfc. — There are in the parish 96 shoemakers. This trade is at present in as flourishing a condition as was ever known. The weekly wages which a tradesman actually gains average 8s. ; but, with steadiness and skill, he may easily increase them to ]2s. Boots and shoes for foreign export are occasionally made here. The tailors are 24 in number, and their wage is about 9s. per weeL There are 51 wrights and 34 masons, who gain about 14s. per week. Occasionally more are required than live in the place, but they are easily procured from the adjoining parishes. Build- ing is rather expensive, in consequence of the distant carriage of the materials. There are in the parish 13 smiths, 14 bakers, 8 butchers, 45 young females employed in mantua-making, 120 in embroidering gymp lace. Three brewers carry on business to a considerable extent in the town. There are three mills, two of which are for grinding flour. V. — Parochial Economv. Town and Villages. — The town of Lanark stands in nearly the i^entre of the parish. It is under the government of magistrates, who employ five or six town-ofiicers. A large body of constables can likewise be called out when occasion requires. Here the prin- cipal business transactions of the surrounding district are carried on. There are markets on Tuesday and Saturday ; the former in general is very numerously attended. In Lanark, as the county town, the Sheriff and Justice of Peace courts are held, and the elec- tion of the member of Parliament for the county takes place. New Lanark is a large and handsome village, lying on the south- west from the town. It stands low upon the river side, and is com- 24 LANARKSHIIIE. pletely surrounded by steep and beautifully wooded hills. It owes its existence to David Dale, who built the first mill in 1784. It has always been and still continues a remarkably thriving manufactory. There are, besides, three considerable hamlets, — Cartland in the north-west, Nemphlar in the west, and Hyndford Bridge-end in the south-east quarter of the parish. Means of Communication. — The parish enjoys the most ample means of communication. There is a post-office ; fifteen miles of turnpike road traverse the parish in different directions. In the fine season, a stage-coach goes to and from Edinburgh every lawful day ; in winter, three times a-week. There is also a stage coach to Glasgow, in summer twice, and in winter once a-day, — besides a number of carriers. There are two bridges over the Clyde. The old bridge, about a mile below the town, is of a very indifferent description. It w^as built about the middle of the seventeenth century, at an expense of L. 56, lis, 7d., which was raised by private contributions and parochial collections.* The New or Hyndford Bridge, a little more than two miles from the town, is remarkable for its elegance. Over the Mouss, there are no fewer than five bridges, at Cleghorn, at Lockhartford, at Cartlane Craigs, and two at Mouss Mill. The Cartlane bridge was built in 1822, from a design of Mr Telford, engineer, and is one of the most beautiful in the country. The height from the bed of the river to the parapet is 125 feet, and to the spring of the arch 84. It has three arches of 52 feet span each. One of the bridges at Mouss Mill is very ancient and curious ; it has a semicircular arch. When the new one was built, this was condemned to be demolished, but, being an object of considerable beauty, it was purchased for L. 50, and preserved by Michael Lin- ning, Esq. and is a great ornament to his beautiful little property in the vicinity. Ecclesiastical State — Patronage of the Parish. — The patronage • The following extract from the presbjrtery records connected with this bridge is curious. ** March 29th 1649 It is ordained the act of Parliament which is granted in favour of the town of Lanark for building a bridge at Clydesholm, — a work of great necessity and public concernment, be presented to the synod that we may have the help and advice of the synod for the furtherance of the work. April I9th 1649. — The brethren, after their return from the synod, report to the baillies of Lanark being then present, law willing, all the brethren of the synod were to further the work of building a bridge at Clydesholm by a contribution of their several parishes, ^nd desires the baillies not to neglect speedily to go on with the work, which the presby- tery will further all they can." LANAIIK. 25 IS in the hands of the Crown ; but from the time of Charles II. it had been claimed by the family of Lee. The Laird of Lee, in 1748, granted a presentation in favour of the Rev. Robert Dick, one of the most pious and learned ministers ever belonging to the church of Scotland, the king presenting at the same time the Rev. James Gray. The people, unjustly prejudiced against the former presentee, tumultuously opposed his induction, for which several of them were tried. The civil question of right was at that time brought before the Court of Session, and decided in favour of the Laird of Lee ; but, upon an appeal to the House of Lords, this decision was reversed, and the Crown has since exercised the pa- tronage. The parish church is situated in the middle of the town, and is in so far convenient for the large majority of the population, al- though^ a few families residing at the extremities of the parish may be between four and five miles distant from it. It was built in 1774. For many years back it had been in a very dilapidated state. During last autumn, however, it underwent considerable repairs, by which it has been greatly improved.* Elegant silver communion cups were anciently presented to the church by the Laird of Lee. Lady Ross Baillie likewise present- ed the church with a handsome baptismal bason, a clock, and a pair of stoves, and in other ways also contributed to its comfort By the original contract, the church should have been seated to accommodate 2300 persons. But such a number would scarcely find room. There are about 100 free sittings, and these might easily be increased, if necessary, by benches along the passages. The manse was built in 1757. It received repairs and an addi- tion in 1811, and is now in a tolerably comfortable state. * The following is a list of the ministers of Lanark since the Reformation : David Cuningham about 1562 John Lererance, 1567 James Raitt, - 1574 William Birnie from 1597 to about 1615 William Livingstone 1614 .— 1641 Robert Birnie - 1643 1691 In the Second Charge. James Kirkton - 1655 1657 John Bannatyne - 1688 1707 John Orr - - 1708 1748 Robert Dick - 1750 175* James Gray - 1755 1793 William Menzii's - 1793 Ihc presbytery records commence in 1 620. 26 LANARKSHIRE. The glebe is four acres in extent, and is worth about L. 16 per annum. The amount of the stipend is 19 chalders, half barley, half meal, with L.20 for communion elements. There is no chapel of ease attached to the Established church, although one is much needed, especially at New Lanark. The dissenters have three places of worship in the town,— one Relief, the others belonging to the Burghers. One of the dissent- ing clergymen is promised L. 120, another L.100, and the third L. 60 per annum. As many families and persons frequent the Established church as can procure seats ; and here and at the Relief Chapel divine service is well attended. The average number of communicants at the Established church is ] 100. Reliffious Societies, — There is a Bible society and a ladies' Bible association in the parish. Previously to 1827, they were accus- tomed to send their funds to the British and Foreign Bible Society, •But since that period they have deemed it more proper to employ them otherwise ; and to diflTerent institutions and societies for the spread of the gospel, they have contributed the following sums : — In 1827, L.100; in 1828, L.70; in 1829, L.80; in 1830, L.40; in 1831, L.20; in 1832, L.20. There is likewise a missionary society ; but neither this nor any other institution of the kind is now prospering as it ought, and what they have been able to effect has been in consequence of handsome legacies left them by a benevolent lady. Formerly, the private subscriptions and collections at the church door for religious and charitable purposes were wont to be liberal, but of late years they have unhappily very much decreased. Edticatian, — The number of schools in the parish is 12, none of which is parochial. One is endowed, and one is supported by a society. Tlie grammar-school once enjoyed high celebrity as a seminary of education. The rector's salary amounts to L. 40; that of the assist- ant is L. 20. The wages are 4s. per quarter for Latin ; and 2s. 6d. for English, writing and arithmetic 1 s. more. Connected with this school there are twenty-eight bursaries ; nine of them were endowed in 1648 by Mr John Carmichael, commissary of Lanark, who mort- gaged the lands of Batiesmains for the purpose. The rest were endowed by one of the Earls of Hyndford, by the family of Maulds- lie, and by a former chamberlain of the name of Thomson. The patronage of these bursaries is in the hands of the magistrates. LANARK. 27 They are of different value, and, after the payment of the school fees, may leave about L. 2 or L.d over, for the support of each of the boys who enjoy them. This school possesses a library, which we have already noticed as having been left to it by Dr William Smellie; but, as the books are principally medical, it is of little use. Some years ago a benevolent lady of the name of Wilson en- dowed a free school in the town of Lanark for the instruction of fifty poor children. The sum mortgaged was L. 1200. The subscription school has long been well managed, and is a blessing to the place. The teachers of the Nemphlar and Cartlane schools have each an allowance of L. 5 yearly from the heritors. At New Lanark there is a day-school, frequented by about 500 children, who re- ceive instruction in the ordinary branches, more suitable to their rank of life than the ornamental accomplishments to which, under a former management, an exclusive attention had been paid. In general, the people are alive to the benefits of education. There is no part of the parish so distant as to be out of the reach of a school, and no additional schools are required. Libraries. — There is a subscription library on a small scale, which is tolerably flourishing. There are also two circulating libraries in the town. Several efforts have been made to set a week- ly periodical agoing, but hitherto without success. A reading-room was attempted some years ago, but failed. Benevolent Societies. — There is at Lanark a brotherly society, to which about 100 persons subscribe. Its object is the relief of members when in distress, and at the present moment five are re- ceiving assistance from it. It would probably have declined like other institutions of the kind in this place, but the funds were laid out in the purchase of three roods of land in the vicinity of the town, which is advantageously feued, and to this it owes its continuance. There were once many more such societies; but two or three years ago a groundless alarm, that Government meant to seize upon their funds, produced their immediate dissolution. At New Lanark, a sick society for the same benevolent object is in existence. The maximum contribution is dd. weekly ; rate of aliment when sick, 7s. 6d. ; when recovering, 5s. ; superan- nuated, 38. Besides these there are 3 funeral societies in the parish, 1 in Lanark, and 2 in New Lanark. On the death of a member or his wife, the family receives L. 4, and L. 2 on the death 28 LANARKSHIRE. of a child. The sum is gathered as occasion requires, the socie- ties accumulating no funds. There is a society in Lanark for the relief of sick, aged, and indigent females. It is supported by subscriptions, &c. amount- ing to about L. 40 annually, and has proved of signal benefit, in distributing pecuniary relief, coals, and clothing. This society is well conducted, and the objects carefully selected by the re- spectable females of Lanark. Savings Bank. — In 1815, a savings bank was instituted, in which, for each of the last three years, there has been invested about L. 200 ; withdrawn L. 342. The deposits are all made by the working-classes, chiefly maid-servants. Tliere is a sum amounting to L. 1400 in the bank belonging to about 410 depositors. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of the poor amounts in the in^parish to 71, in the out-parish to 36. In virtue of a mu- tual agreement made seventy-five years ago between the two classes of heritors, each to support their own poor, the management of the former is in the hands of the kirk-session and in-town heritors, while that of the latter is in the hands of the kirk-session and out- heritors. Paupers in the burgh are paid from Is. to lOs^per month, according to circumstances ; country paupers on an average, ds. per month. The contributions at the church door now amount annually to no more than L. 37. Of this, L. 8 are, by agreement, paid to the landward heritors for the support of their poor. What remains after that and the other drawbacks, together with an annual assess- ment of L. 230, goes to maintain the poor of the in-parish ; besides L. 70, the annual rent of the hospital lands, is distributed by the magistrates among the poor of the burgh, and L. 40 by the cor- poration of shoemakers to the poor belonging to them. The landward paupers are maintained by the L. 8 received out of the church collections, and an assessment amounting to L. 100 annually, which has been levied for a period of seventy-five years, without undergoing any considerable increase. Mrs Wilson mortified a sum which yields about L. 32 per annum, for the aid of indigent persons not upon the poor's roll ; and for the same class of persons, the late Mr Howison of Hyndford, left L. 700, which is to be invested in land, and the produce annually distributed. Formerly it was considered disgraceful to receive pa- rochial relief, but for some years past, this honourable feeling has been gradually wearing away. LANARK. 29 Jail. — There is a jail in the town, under the government of the magistrates. But it has, for a long course of years, been in so in- secure a condition, that none have staid in it but such as were prisoners de bonne volante. An act of Parliament, however, has been obtained for the erection of County Buildings at Lanark, including a Prison for the Upper Ward ; and the foundation stone was laid on 21st March 1834. Fairs. — Seven fairs are held at Lanark every year. The one on the last Wednesday of May, old style, is for black cattle ; that on the last Wednesday of July for lambs and horses ; and the one in October, on the Friday after the Falkirk tryst, is for horses and black-cattle. Inns. — There are 53 persons licensed to keep inns in the parish. Of these, however, 14 are merely spirit-dealers, and do not sell any kind of liquors but in the way of retail over the counter. The Clydesdale Hotel in this town is one of the handsomest and best kept inns in Scotland. A few years ago, the shareholders expend- ed L. 2400 in adding to it an elegant assembly room. FueL — Fuel is excellent and cheap. Coal is brought from the adjoining parishes, some of it six, and the rest nine miles distance, and is laid down in the town at an expense of from 4d to 4^d per cwt. A few peats are also cast in the adjoining moor. April 1834. PARISH OF LESMAHAGO, PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES HAMILTON, D.D.) j^j^jg^j.j>g» THE REV. JOHN WILSON, A. M. f I. — Topography and Natural History. • Name Boundaries^ Sfc, — This parish is supposed to derive its name from Les or iw, signifying in Gaelic, a green or garden^ and Machute, the tutelar saint of the place, who is said to have settled here in the sixth century. A monastery was founded in this parish by David L in 1140. It was dependent on the abbey of Kelso ; and hence the village which collected round it received the name of Abbey Green, which it still retains. This village is nearly in the centre of the parish, and about twenty-two miles from Glasgow, upon which the inhabitants of this and other villages in the parish depend for employment as weavers. The parish may be described as nearly square, and contains sixty-seven square miles, or 34,000 acres. It is bounded on the east by the parishes of Lanark and Carmichael ; on the south by Douglas, and Muirkirk; on the west by Strathaven and Stone- house ; and on the north by Dalserf and Carluke. Topographical Appearances, — The average elevation of more than three-fourths of the parish is probably about 500 feet above the sea; — the remainder, lying upon the west and south-west side, rises into considerable hills, dividing the counties of Lanark and Ayr, some of which may be supposed to be 1200 feet high. They afford an excellent sheep-pasture. On the south side of the parish there is a fissure in the rocks known by the name of Wallace's Cave ; if ever that hero inhabited it, his lodging could not be of the most comfortable kind. Meteorology. — The elevated situation of the parish renders the temperature of the atmosphere very variable ; and, not unfrequent- ly, the fruit-trees, after promising an abundant crop, have had • 'lliis Account has been drawn up by Andrew Smith, Esq. of Fauldhouse. LESMAHAGO. 31 their blossoms blighted by a few chilly nights in May. In rainy weather, the hills upon the west seem to attract the clouds, and, consequently, more rain falls there than in the lower parts of the parish ; but even there, want of moisture is not generally com- plained of. The prevailing winds may be said to be from the westward, — every tree or hedge that is exposed leaning from that, and making their most vigorous shoots in an opposite direction. Upon the whole, however, the climate may be said to be salubrious, and instances of longevity are numerous. Hydrography. — This parish abounds in springs of excellent wa- ter ; though none of a medicinal quality have been yet discovered. These springs are the parents of several streams, capable of driv- ing machinery. The Poniel water, which rises in the south-west of the parish, divides it from the parish of Douglas, and after a course of seven or eight miles in an easterly direction, joins the Douglas water about three miles from its junction with the Clyde ; for which three miles the united stream becomes the boundary of the parish. The Logan, Nethan, and also the Kype water rise in the high grounds on the west The banks of the Nethan are generally clothed with coppice, and adorned with gentlemen's houses, or neat farm-steadings. The Kype, so far as it divides this parish from Avondale or Strathaven, is a moorland stream, — naked and unadorned on its banks, but capable of working mischief on the lower grounds, when thunder storms have passed along the hills. In consequence of these grounds being much drained within these few years, the water descends more rapidly than formerly, and in greater quantities, de- stroying bridges and injuring the small haughs or holms. There are some other small streams that run a few miles in the parish, but all are tributary to the above, with the exception of the Can- nar, which, after a course of a few miles, joins the Avon in the parish of Stonehouse. As all these streams ultimately join the Clyde, where it is from three to four hundred feet above the sea, their courses are pretty rapid. Geology. — This parish lies nearly on the south side of the great coal field which crosses our island through Fife, Ayrshire, and the intermediate counties. Nevertheless, the strata are so deranged by numerous dikes or fissures, that, where coals are wrought, the direction and inclination of the strata vary so materially, as to set hopes and expectations at defiance. In several of the coal and 32 LANARKSHIRE. lime-works, the dip is as one in six ; while at Auchenheath, where, as well as in two other places in this parish, a fine kind of cannel coal is wrought, supplying Glasgow and other places with gas, the inclination is only one to twelve, or thirteen. Coal of the same quality has (we believe) been nowhere found in Scotland ; and even here, and in a small corner of the parish of Carluke, to which it extends, the thickness of the strata varies from ten to twenty-one inches ; it is sold for about 8s. per ton upon the coal-hill, and affords employment to about forty pickmen in this parish. Pit- coal is also plentiful in Lesmahago. The rocks that appear are either whin, or trap sandstone, or limestone ; in some places the sandstone inclines to slate, but no true roofing-slate has been discovered in this parish. Limestone has been wrought, and still is wrought in seven or eight different places in the parish. Though sold at a pretty fair price, affording the landlord about one-sixth of the sale price, it has given a stimu- lus to improvement, particularly of waste lands. In these lime- stone workings, petrified shells are very commonly found ; and sometimes the fossil remains of terrestrial animals. Ironstone may be seen in many of the banks, both in balls and in regular strata, but not in such quantities, nor lying so regularly, as to warrant the erection of a furnace. Lead has frequently been sought in the high grounds, on the south-west of the parish, but hitherto with- out success ; nor have simple minerals been found in the rocks, or beds of rivers, to any extent. From the rapid current of the streams, little alluvial soil is found in the parish ; it may therefore be said to consist chiefly of a yel- low clay, to a small extent resting on a substratum of white sand- stone ; of a light friable soil, resting on whinstone ; of a Fandy gravelly soil, from decomposed sandstone, and of moss. The se- cond of these is unquestionably the best ; but both that and the first, when properly managed, produce better and more certain crops than the other two. II. — Civil History. A short account of this parish was written by the Ilev. Mr Whyte of Libbcrton, and published in the Edinburgh Magazine about sixtv vears ago. Historical Notices, — There arc no historical events of import- nnce coiinertod witii Lesmahago, except the burning by the bro- LESMAHAGO. 33 ther of Edward III. of the abbey, and its destruction a second time by fire, kindled by thd zeal of the old reformers. This religi- ous spirit appears to have here broken forth on more occasions ; for many of the inhabitants bore arms at Bothwell Bridge. The co- lours and the drum then used are still preserved in the parish. It was in Lesmahago that the unfortunate Mr Macdonald of Kinlochmoidart was apprehended by a carpenter named Meikle, and a young clergyman of the name of Linning, — ^while on his way south to join Prince Charles ; in revenge for which, the clans, on their way north, burned Meikle's house. A Mr Lawrie, gene- rally designated the Tutor of Blackwood, from his having married the heiress of that estate, seems to have been a leading character in this part of the country in and about the time of the Revolution. His son was created a baronet by King William. Land-owners, — The Duke of Hamilton, Lord Douglas, and James J. Hope Vere, Esq. of Blackwood, are the principal pro- prietors in Lesmahago ; there are a number of other respectable land>owners, several of whom reside upon their properties. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers commence in \ 1697 ; since which time they have been pretty regularly kept, and now extend to twenty volumes. Antiquities, — Lesmahago can boast of little to attract the no- tice of the antiquarian, excepting the ruins of Craignethan Castle ; which about a century ago passed from the family of Hay into that of Douglas, by purchase. The remains of an old abbey were pulled down about thirty years ago, to make room for a modem church ; and an old Roman road, which passed through a corner of the parish, has been obliterated by the plough. — About twenty years ago, 100 small silver coins of Ed- ward I. were found below a large stone. — Nearly at the same time a Roman vase was found in the parish ; it is now placed in the museum of the University of Glasgow. Some Roman coins have also been found ; and in making a drain about ten years ago, an old Caledonian battle-axe, made of stone, was found upon the es^ tate of Blackwood. It is now in the possession of the proprietor. Many large cairns have been removed in this parish, for mate- rials in making roads and fences. These were always found to contain bones in the centre, but so far decayed as to crumble into dust on exposure to the air. Modem Buildings, — A number of modem mansions have been erected by the resident gentlemen within the last thirty years, and LANARK. C 34 LANARKSHIRE. during that time upwards of one-half of the farm-steadings have been renovated ; for which purposes abundance of good stone is easily procured. III. — Population. \. In 1801 the population was - 8070 1811, . - 4464 1821, - . 5592 1831, - - 6409 2. Number of fiunilies in the parish, .... 1168 of fiunilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 302 chiefly employed in trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, 466 3. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, - - 150 ofdeaths, ..... 64 of marriages, .... 52 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 2968 upwards of 70, - - - 818 There are about 90 small proprietors in Lesmahago ; of whom at least 50 have rentals of upwards of L. 50 a-year. The increase of the population betwixt 1821 and 1831 may be accounted for by the facility with which even boys engaged at weaving got possession of money ; able to earn considerable wages before they had acquired sense to manage them, many hurried into matrimonial connections ; and their wives being equally young and thoughtless, they indulged in dress and luxuries, and preserved no portion of their gains against poverty in less auspicious seasons. Charajcter and Habits of the People. — The people in general may be said to be of cleanly habits, which are impaired, however, in some degree, by the influx of strangers. Their style and man- ner of dress, however, may be said to be rather expensive, the ser- vant-girl dressing as gaily as the squires' daughters did thirty years ago. The difference in their table has nearly kept pace with that of their dress ; and, with few exceptions, unless among those em- ployed in agriculture, tea is an universal beverage ; even paupers consume more of that article than was used in the parish fifty years ago. How far these changes tend to the comforts and be- nefit of society may be questioned. Certainly the lower orders are not so contented nor independent as formerly ; nor is their general character for morality or religion improved ; while there cannot be a doubt that pauperism has greatly increased. The number of illegitimate births during the last three years has been 27. Until the weaving of cotton was introduced about forty-five years ago, no trade or manufacture was carried on beyond the wants of LESMAHAGO. 35 the parish. A cottage or two was attached to every farm-house, for the accommodation of the necessary labourers; along with whom the small proprietors and farmers shared in the toils of the day ; joined at the same table in their meals ; and, by the side of the kitchen fire, enjoyed the song or gossip of the evening, — conclud- ing the day with family-prayer. A fire in the better apartment, except on the visit of a friend, or on some gala day, was never thought of. Their dress was composed of home-made stuff, ex- cepting a suit of black, which was generally of EngUsh cloth, and carefully preserved for funeral and sacramental occasions. IV.' — Industry. As before stated, this parish contains about 34,000 Scotch acres ; of which, probably, 11,000 never have been under cultivation. About 1000 acres may yet be brought to carry grain occasionally, if the spirit of improvement, now so general, be not checked. 1200 acres are planted ; 450 are in coppice-wood, and 50 in vil- lage gardens and orchards. 21,300 acres thus appear to be now, or occasionally, in cultivation. Planting in general has been carri^ on within these forty years to a considerable extent in Lesmahago, which before that period was naked and bare. Now, however, it has a very different ap- pearance, and almost everywhere the eye of the traveller may rest on useful stripes or clumps. In these the Scotch fir predo- minates, though that plant seems very much degenerated ; wher- ever it is mixed with the larch, the latter takes the lead; and in damp soils it is also far behind the spruce. Were we to hazard an opinion on the cause of this degeneracy of Scotch fir, we would say it might be found in the careless way in which the nur- serymen procure the seed, which, when collected from the nearest young and stynted trees, produces feeble plants. Another circum- stance tending much to prevent the proper growth, is the want of thinning in proper time. Few people who plant, tike the idea of cutting. Rent of Land. — The quality of land varies very much : some of it is very rich, but unfortunately the poorer soil predominates. The average rent of the whole may be stated at L. 1 per acre Scotch, — ^while the waste lands may be estimated at 2s. 6d., — giving a ren- tal for the parish, exclusive of woods and orchards, of L. 22,675. The inclosed lands around gentlemen's houses are generally let for pasture during the summer, yielding a rent of about L. 3 for every cow or ox weighing from 400 to 500 lbs. weight In the com- 36 LANARKSHIRE. mon sheep-pastures, 5s. a-head during the season may be stated as a fair rent. Rate of Wages, — Farm-servants are not so high priced, nor so difficult to be got as they were a few years back ; at present, a good man-servant, fit for the plough, &c. may l>e hired for L. 14 a-year, with bed and board; while less experienced hands may be had from L. 9 to L. 12; girls fit for conducting a dairy,* under the eye of their mistresses, get about L. 4 during the summer, and about L. 2, 10s. during winter, with board. Tradesmen generally work by the piece or job ; but, like the labourers, are getting less wages than lately, nor are they so shy to work by4;he day ; when they do so, masons and carpenters expect 2s. 6d*. a-day, without victuals ; and tailors Is. 3d. or Is. 6d. with board. • Breeds of Live Stock, — From the elevation of Lesmahago parish, it is better suited for the dairy, and the breeding of cattle, than for raising grain ; consequently, the small proprietors and tenants have turned their attention in these ways for the last thirty years. During that time, the Ayrshire breed of cattle has been principal- ly reared ; and the cheese made from new milk, known by th^ name of Dunlop, has become a staple commodity. Of this about «*100 lbs. weight may be made from every cow, when the whole milk is turned to that account ; and on some farms, with careful hands, that quantity, is raised, and a number of young stock reared, — which goes to uphold the original stock, or to supply the English and other markets with that breed of cattle. Lanarkshire has long been famous for its breed of draught horses, of which Les- mahago has its share. The Jewish antipathy against swine seems to be wearing off, and the occupiers of land find it profitable to keep a few of these ani- mals, to consume the refuse of the dairy ; and many labourers and mechanics keep a pig, by the dung of which they raise potatoes with a neighbouring farmer in the following year. A mixed breed, be- tween the English and Highland kind, seems the favourite ; which, when properly fed, may be killed at the age of nine or ten months, weighing from two to two and a-half hundred weight It is pro- bable this kind of stock may be more attended to hereafter. The sheep kept on the high grounds are of the old Scotch black-faced kind, weighing from ten to fifteen pounds imperial per quarter, when fattened. This breed is better adapted to the soil and climate than the Cheviot or finer kinds ; and the improvements sought after by the sheep-master are in shape and weight ; to both of which they pay particular attention. By keeping fewer in num- LESMAHAGO. 37 ber than was done forty years ago, they are better fed, and are thus enabled to struggle with the stonns and snows of winter ; while surface-drains made upon the soft lands, at the rate of L. 3 for 6000 yards, have added greatly to their improvement, by keeping the ground dry, and raising sweeter herbage. Husbandry. — A very considerable extent of waste land has been reclaimed in Lesmahago within the last twenty-five years ; which has generally paid the improvement in the course of the first three years, leaving the amelioration of the soil as profit to the farmer. Draining had long been only partially carried on, but seems now to become more general. Irrigation is little attended to here, ex- cept, in a few instances, for meadow hay ; and embanking is not much wanted, as the streams have generally high and steep banks. The leases granted to tenants are generally for nineteen years. Some time ago, when land was constantly increasing in value, landlords in some instances made the leases of shorter duration ; but this has not had the effect of either putting money into their pockets, or improving their estates : it has rather been of a con- trary tendency. As mentioned before, the farm-houses have been much improved within the last forty years ; and within the same time, enclosures have been much attended to ; some hundreds of miles of Galloway stone-dikes have been built, where the materials were abundant, or the soil inimical to hedges ; while the last have been raised upon the better soils, and now adorn a great propor- tion of the parish. It may be regretted, however, that we still want those hedge-rows of timber, which in many parts of the island give the appearance of a close-wooded country. The greatest obstacles to improvement appears to be the sys- tem of entails ; and, I may add, the custom among landlords of let- ting tlyeir farms to the highest bidder, without a sufficient evidence of his possessing capital adequate to the management of the farm in the most advantageous way. Produce, — The gross amount of raw produce (exclusive of the pasture lands) raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertain- ed, is as follows : 20,000 quarters of grain, say at L. I, 5s. per quarter, - L. 25,000 000 acres of potatoes, and 50 of turnips, average value L. 14 per acre, 9,100 1200 tons of cultivated hay, at L. 3 per ton, and 900 tons of mea. dow, at L. 2 per ton, ... 4,200 Thinnings of wood, - ... . 400 Cutting of coppice, . . . . . 25(9 Toul, L. 98,950 38 LANARKSHIRE. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no market-towns in the parish, the nearest being La- nark, at the distance of six miles from Abbey Green. Upwards of one-third of the population, however, are congregated in the vil- lages of Abbey Green, Kirkmuirhill, Kirkfield Bank, Boghead, and Nethanfoot, all of which villages have a regular communication with Glasgow by means of coaches and carriers ; and there is a daily post to the former. Means of Communication. — Besides the Glasgow and Carlisle road, which runs upwards of eight miles in the parish, and the Glas- gow and Lanark road, running about five, there are not less than eighty miles of parish roads kept up by converted statute labour money : and of these fifty miles at least are in very tolerable order. Bridges have been built, partly from the county funds, upon all the streams crossed by these lines of road. Ecclesiastical State, — Lesmahago has been a collegiate charge ever since the Reformation. The church is in the village of Abbey Green, in the centre of the parish. It is capable of containing 1500 sitters, — the whole being divided among the heritors for their respective tenantry, according to their respective valuations, with the exception of a pew to each clergyman. The first minis- ter has a glebe of eight acres (Scotch,) which might be let at L. 5 per acre : with a stipend of sixteen chalders, one half oat- meal and the other barley, converted, at the highest fiars price of the county, and yielding on an average of the last seven years, L. 277, 12s. The second minister has a manse and garden, but no glebe : — ^he has the same stipend as the first, and rents a small farm from the patron, on which the heritors have built his house and the requisite accommodations. There are two dissenting chapels belonging to different deno- minations of Burghers ; both of these have been lately erected. The ofiiciating clergymen are paid from the seat rents, and from voluntary contributions, affording about L. 100 a-year to each. Although these houses have still the enticement of novelty, by far the greater number in the parish adhere to the Established church, in which divine service is well attended. The average number of communicants at the Established church is about 1700. The number of dissenters is about 200. Education. — The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum sa- lary, with a good house and garden ; he has also perquisites as ses- sion-clerk, amounting to L. 22 a-year. His school-fees may amount 4 LESMAHAGO. 39 to L. 45. The heritors have assessed themselves in an additional chalder, which is divided amon^ a few other schools, enabling those at a distance from the parish school, to educate their children in English, writing, and arithmetic, and sometimes even in Greek and Latin, at an expense of from ds. to 5s. a quarter, according to their studies. The consequence is, that reading and writing may be said to be universal, and at present the different schools are attended by upwards of 600 children. A subscription school for teaching girls to read and sew is also kept up in the village of Abbey Green ; it is attended by about 80. There are also four well attended Sab- bath schools for boys and girls. It does not, however, appear very evidently that either the conduct or morals of the people have been improved by the increased fiacilities of education : the vices of drunkenness and pilfering, from whatever cause, have certainly not decreased, while discontent has made rapid strides, and the reluctance to come upon the poors' roll has vanished. Library^ 4rc. — There is a small subscription library in the parish, but it is not in a very thriving state. The parishioners at the same time receive a variety of the London, Edinburgh, and Glas- gow newspapers and periodicals. Benevolent Societies. — There are three Societies in the parish, which distribute a portion of their funds among their aged or sickly members : the inclination, however, to join in such associations, it is feared, is now declining. Samngs Bank, — A Savings bank was established a few years ago. The principal depositors are farm and house-servants : and it is now in a thriving state. The average amount yearly invested is L.60; withdrawn, L.20. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers has been trebled within the last thirty years, and now amounts to 148 regu- larly enrolled. There being neither alms nor poors' house in the parish, they receive from ds. to 15s. monthly in their own houses, amounting to about L. 500 yearly; of this sum, L.47 is raised by collections in the church ; and L. 98 is the produce of mortified money; the remainder is made up by an assessment upon the land, one-half paid by the heritors, and the other by the tenants. Too little attention, however, is paid to this branch of parochial busi- ness; the session, by giving up the practice of collecting with ladles in the church, and individuals by propagating the idea that the heritors are bound to support the poor, have brought the public collection below what it was a hundred years ago, when the popu- I 40 LANARKSHIRE. lation was less than half what it is now, and money four times the value. Inns. — There has been an increase in the niunber of inns, or rather whisky shops, in the parish, at the rate of six to one, within the last forty years ; which either tends to, or is a proof of, the de- moralization of the inhabitants; at present their number is as one to less than every 250 souls in Lesmahago. Miscellaneous Observations. This parish has undergone a great change since the last Sta- tistical Account was published ; the population has greatly in- creased ; the lands have been generally inclosed ; plantations have sprung up; roads, from mere tracts, have become good carriage ways ; and these, with the opening up of lime in several places, have given a facility to improvements in agriculture which has not been neglected ; an improved mode of husbandry has been adopted ; draining has been introduced ; and waste lands to a great extent have been brought into cultivation. These improvements, how- ever, may, with due encouragement on the part of the landlords, be carried still farther, and, by giving employment to labourers, would add to the comfort and happiness of that useful class of so- ciety, and tend to the diminution of ^pauperism, — objects which ought never to be lost sight of by judicious landlords. March 1834. UNITED PARISH OF LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. PRESBYTERY OF BIG6AR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. ALEXANDER CRAIK, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Extent. — The parish of Quothquan was annexed to that of Libberton in the year 1669. The united parish extends from north to south about seven miles, and from east to west about four and a-half miles. It contains nearly 14 square miles, or 8703 impe- rial acres. Topographical Appearances* — Along the whole course of the Clyde in this parish, there is a great extent of low level land, con- sisting of a strong clay soil, a considerable portion of which is covered with water as often as the Clyde overflows its banks, which gene- rally happens ten or twelve times in the year ; and the soil being enriched by these inundations, produces luxuriant crops, without any other manure. Where these holm lands are embanked, (which is done when it can be effected without great expense,) the crops are protected against the inroads of the river; but in this, as in other cases, manure is required to renew the soil. The banks of the Clyde rise gently, but in some places rather suddenly, to the height of 50 or 60 feet above the stream, and ex- tend to the distance of half a mile or more beyond it. The land on the banks of the Clyde is generally early and fertile, and its average rent L. 2, 10s. per acre. As the land recedes from the Clyde, it becomes more elevated, later, and less productive ; and though there are some early and fertile spots near the Medwin, the banks of that river are for the most part poor and moorish. Meteorology. — On this head, it may be only remarked, that a greater quantity of rain falls here than on the east coast. The climate is neither so warm nor so dry as to render the cul- ture of wheat an object ; but other kinds of grain succeed very well 42 LANARKSHIRE. in ordinary seasons ; and the inhabitants of this parish are subject to as few diseases, and are as healthy, on the whole, as those of any other parish in Scotland. This must be owing, in a great measure, to the pure keen air they breathe, as well as to the ge« neral temperance of their habits. Hydrography, — The only rivers in this parish are the Clyde and the Medwin. The Clyde, when swollen by rain, overflows all the low grounds on its banks, doing much damage to the growing crops within its reach. The farmers, however, often carry oflF the crops as they are cut, beyond the reach of the inundation. The breadth of the Clyde in this parish is from 100 to 120 feet, and its depth from 15 to 1 foot There are several fords when the stream is low ; but in winter they are often impassable. The South Medwin, which bounds Libberton parish for three miles, rises near Garvaldfoot, in the parish of West Linton, and, after a course of nine miles, is joined by the North Medwin, in this parish, about a mile and a-half before they both fall into the Clyde. A small branch of the South Medwin runs off towards the east, near Garvaldfoot, and, dividing at Dolphington, the counties of La- nark and Peebles, falls into the Tweed. The South Medwin, within its usual channels, is in general about 22 feet broad, and 2 or 3 feet deep, at an average. When united, the Medwins are not much broader, but of greater mean depth. XL — Civil History. It appears from Wodrow's History that, in the year 1663, the parish of Libberton was fined L. 252, 8s. Scots, and Quothquhan L. 182, 16s. Scots, for nonconformity to Prelacy. Chief Land-oumers, — The chief land-owner is Sir Norman Mac- donald Lockhart, Bart, of Lee and Carnwath. Family of Chancellor of ShieldhilL — The second land-owner is Alexander Chancellor, Esq. of Shieldhill, whose ancestors have been in possession of this estate for the last four centuries, as appears from a charter still extant, * granted by Thomas Lord Sommerville to William Chancellor of Shieldhill and Quothquhan, a. d. 1432. In July 1474, William Chancellor rode with the rest of the then Lord Sommerville's vassals to meet King James on his way from Edinburgh to Couthally Castle, to partake of the festivity of the " speates and raxes." f • This charter is referred to in the Memoirs of the Sommervilles, Vol. i. p. 175. t Ibid. pp. 240-248. LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. 43 After the battle of Bothwell Bridge, James Chancellor was im- prisoned oir suspicion of having harboured some fugitives; but no- thing being proved against him, he was liberated after some days confinement. * The same gentleman was returned as elder by the presbytery of Biggar to the first General Assembly which met after the revolution of 1688. f The family residence was originally at Quothquan, and remain- ed there till 1567, when the then proprietor joined Queen Mary's party at Hamilton, and engaged in the battle of Langside. After her defeat, a party of 500 horsemen, sent out by Regent Murray to demolish the houses of her adherents, burned down, among others, the mansion-house at Quothquan. After this calamity, the family residence was removed to Shieldhill, which appears originally to have been a square tower of no great dimensions, but which has at different times been added to and modernized, particularly by the present proprietor. At a short distance to the southward from Shieldhill is the man- sion-house of Huntfield, the property of John Stark, Esq., surround- ed by thriving plantations. Parochial Register. — The earliest date of the parochial registers is 1717. They consist of two volumes, and refer to births and baptisms, marriages and burials. The registration by dissenters is somewhat irregular; but otherwise the records are satisfactorily kept. Antiquities, — About half a mile south-west from the church, are to be seen the ruins of a fortification or camp, — improperly called Roman, as its form is circular. It stands on the edge of a high and barren moor, about half a mile from the Clyde, and commands an extensive view of that river to the south and west It contains about 1 \ acres, and is surrounded by a double wall of earth, a deep ditch intervening. III. — Population. " From the session records," according to the Statistical Account of the late Mr Fraser, " it appears that the births in this parish from April 1683 to April 1753, amounted exactly to 2205, the annual average of which is 31 J. The marriages during the same period amounted to 563, the annual average of which is little more than • Wodrow's Church History. •f Records of the Biggar Presbytery. 44 LANARKSHIRE 8." The return to Dr Webster in 1755 gave 708 persons examin- able, or above 8 years of age. In 1811, the population was 749 1821. - - 785 1831,. - - 773 The decrease of population may be imputed to the consolidation of farms, the non-residence of heritors, the removal of part of the population to towns in quest of employment, and of late to Ame- rica, — twenty individuals having emigrated to that country from this parish in the year 1831. There are 8 proprietors in this parish, having yearly rentals of r L. 100 and upwards. The gross rental of the parish is L.4561. 1. Number of families in the parish, - - - - 152 of fiunilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 80 chiefly employed in trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, ' 36 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 7 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 33 3. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, - 14 of deaths, ... . 9 of marriages, . . . . 7 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 331 upwards of 70, - - - 18 Character of the People, — They are generally sober, frugal, and industrious, and, as a proof of this, there is not an alehouse in the parish. I regret to add, however, that illicit intercourse be- twixt the sexes has become more common than it appears to have * been forty or 'fifty years ago ; the number of illegitimate births be- ing not less on an average than three in the year. I should add, too, that poaching is not uncommon, and is hardly considered to be unlawful. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — Arable, - - - 5403 imperial acres. Waste or pasture land, . 2500 Land worth the cultivating, - 300 Land under wood, - - 500 8703 Rent of Land. — Average rent of land per acre is L. 1, 5s. ; ave- rage cost of grazing an ox or cow per year, L. 3 ; grazing a quey, L. 1, 10s. ; grazing a sheep, 14s. Rate of Wages, — Yearly wages of a ploughman, with victuals, L. 12; of a maid-servant, L. 6, 10s.; of a boy or girl, L.2; la- LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. 45 bourers, per day, without victuals, Is. QcL;* masons, 2s. 6d ; wrights, 2s. 6d. ; smith's work per lb. of iron, 6d. In the time of harvest, labourers' wages with victuals, L. 2 ; womens' dOs. Breeds of Live Stock, — The common breed of cattle is the Ayr- shire, and of sheep a cross between the Cheviot and Leicester. Both are improved by the frequent introduction of new stock. HusboJidry. — The general method of farming on dry lands is in six divisions, by the following rotation of crops, viz ] . corn ; 2. fal- low or green crop ; 3. com ; 4. hay ; 5. pasture ; 6. pasture. On rich lands lying near the Clyde, four divisions are observed, viz. 1. corn; 2. green crop; 3. com: 4. hay. Every encouragement has been given by the proprietors to in^ dustrious tenants. In the southem and westem parts of the pa- rish, where enclosures can be considered advantageous, the whole of the lands are enclosed, either by stone-dikes or hedges and ditches. In other districts of the parish, there are no enclosures of any description. A good deal of improvement has been effect- ed in draining wet lands, but very little of any consequence in re- claiming waste lands. On one estate about fifty acres have been reclaimed within fifteen or twenty years. The duration of leases in the parish is nineteen years. In the southern division the state of farm-buildings is considered supe- rior to that of those on almost any estate in the neighbourhood of equal extent. In the course of the last seven years the greater part of the farm-steadings has been, rebuilt substantially. The others have been repaired, and by enlargements every suitable accommodation has been given to the tenants. In the rest of the parish, the farm-buildings are generally bad, and incommodious. The face of the country would still be much improved by en- closures and belts of planting, judiciously made. A good deal has been done in this respect of late years : and on the lands of Cormiston, Shieldhill, Huntfield, and Whitecastle, more than 400 acres of larch, Scotch and spruce fir, intermixed with va- rieties of hard wood, have been planted by their respective proprie- tors. These plantations are at present in a thriving state, and are already, or will, ere long, be a great ornament to the vicinity. On the property of Huntfield alone, there are 250 imperial acres under wood, the greater portion of which has been planted within the last twenty years. A great part of Libberton moor, which is now a barren waste, if sheltered, drained, ^'and subdivided bv belts of planting, and let in small pendicles to industrious cottagers at little 46 LANARKSHIRE. or no rent for some years, would soon be reclaimed ; and at no very great expense rendered no less profitable to the proprietor, than ornamental to the neighbourhood. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is as follows : Oats, 6020 bolls, at IBs. per boU, - - . - L. 5418 As my predecessor, Mr Eraser, in his Statistical Account, states the number of acres sown in oats forty years ago at 2123^ whidi at only five bolls per acre, a very moderate average, would amount to 10,615 bolls, and as a still greater quantity is produced now, the feed and seed oats cannot be included in the above. Feed oats mean the meal used by the fitmily and servants, and the com consumed by the cattle on a fifurm ; and seed oats those required to sow it. Many fiurms in the parish affbrd an average of 8 or 9 bolls per Scotch acre. Barley and bear, ... . -700 00 Turnips, d400 tons, at 58. per ton, ... - 850 Potatoes, 2400 bolls of 4 cwt. at 58. per boll, - - - 602 10 Rye-grass, 32,240 stones of 22 lbs. at 6d. per stone, - - 806 Meadow hay, 8000 stones, at 4d. per stone, - - • 133 6 Produce of cattle and sheep grazed, .... 1100 Do. of the dairy in butter and cheese, at L. 7 per cow, is - 3395 Gross amount, - L. 130O4 16 A considerable portion of most of the above articles is consumed by the horses and cattle. Number of milk cows in the parish, - 485 Do. of queys and stots reared and bred, - 190 Number of horses, - - - 120 of carts, ... 108 of ploughs, - - - 49 V. — Parochial Economy. Camwath is the nearest market-town. It is 2^ miles from Libberton church. Means of Communication. — There is no toll-road in the parish, except the one betwixt Glasgow and Peebles, which passes through the north-east comer of it for nearly a mile ; and many of the pa- rish roads are bad, as they extend about 30 miles, and would re- quire far more funds to put and keep them in repair than the pa- rish could afford. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church was built in 1812, and had the heritors laid out L. 40 or L. 50 more upon it, it would have lasted sixty or seventy years longer than it will do. It is feared that from damp much of the wood, both in the galleries and below, LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. 47 will soon rot The church affords accommodation to 450 per&ons, and is amply sufficient for the whole population. The manse was built in 1824, and is a good house ; but the offices are indifferent The glebe extends to about 8 Scotch acres, and is worth L. 16 yearly. The stipend is 15 chalders, or 240 bolls Linlithgow measure, of grain, half meal and half barley, besides L. 8, 6s. dd. for com- munion elements. There are no chapels of ease, nor dissenting chapels in the parish. The number of dissenters above twelve years of age is about 170, — much the same number as was found by the present writer when he entered to the parish in 1813. The dissenters generally be- long either to Seceding or Relief congregations in Biggar, which is nearer to some parts of the parish than the parish church. There are only two Episcopalian families in the parish, who have no chapel within 20 miles. The average number of communicants at the parish church is from 200 to 220. JEducatian. — There are two schools in the parish, viz. the paro- chial school at the church town of Libberton, and the school of Quothquan ; the latter is supported by a mortification of L. 2, 10s. L. 6 for house rent yearly, and the school fees ; there are also attached to it a good school and school-house, built last sum- mer. There is also a Sunday school taught at Quothquan, which is attended by 25 scholars, and is superintended partly by the teacher at Quothquan, and partly by the private tutor at Shieldhill. The salary of the parochial teacher is L. 30, and the amount of school fees does not exceed L. 20 a-year. In Quothquan school the school fees must be considerably less. The parochial teacheY has the legal accommodations. There are no persons bom and brought up in the parish, who cannot read and write. TheriB is a parochial library in the parish ; also a Friendly So- ciety, which was instituted in 1811 for the relief of its distressed members. Poor and Parochial Funds. — At present there are 13 poor per- sons receiving each about an average of L. 4 yearly. The amount of annual contributions for the poor is about L. 58, of which L. 45 arises from voluntary assessment, one-half of which is paid by the proprietors, and the other half by the tenants. The church col- lections amount to L. 1 1 ; and there is also the interest of L. 40, 48 LANARKSHIRE. — L. 1, 16s. There is less disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief than formerly, nor do they now con- sider it so degrading. FueL — The fuel chiefly used is coal, procured either from the parish of Douglas, at the distance of ten miles, or from Cleugh, in the parish of Carnwath, nine miles distant from the church town of Libberton. Miscellaneous Observations. As a proof of the great rise in the value of land in this parish within these last thirty or forty years, the property of Whitecastle, situated in the most elevated district of the parish, was purchased about forty years ago, for about L. 2700 ; and it has yielded an an • * nual rent, for these nineteen years past, of L. 283, which is not ac* counted too high. About thirty-two years ago, a property was purchased for the same sum, in the southern district of the parish; the annual rent of which is now L. 345. It may be added, that the farmers labour under great disadvan- tages from their high rents, the difficulty of communication with good and ready markets, and their liability to have their crops of corn and potatoes injured by frosts in autunm ; in consequence of which they have not only a deficiency of produce, but are obliged to purchase their seed at a dear rate from a distance. In certain districts, chiefly the poorest, and most elevated of the parish, there is a disease incident to cows called the stiffness^ the cause or cure of which has never yet been well ascertained, but which generally proves fatal to its victims. It is a general wasting, or atrophy, which attacks cattle in the spring or winter months, and reduces them to skeletons. Their only chance of recovery is in their re- moval to a richer pasture, before the disease has far advanced. March 1834. PARISH OF DOLPHIN TON. PRESBYTERY OP BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JOHN AITON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name — Boundaries. — A Dolphin fish is represented in the arms of the principal heritor; but the name of Dolphinstown, as it was an- ciently spelled, seems with more probability to be derived from that of one of the early proprietors of the manor. Dolfine, the eldest brother of Coss Patrick, first Earl of Dunbar, acquired this property during the reign of Alexander L, about the begining of the twelfth century. In the district of the country from which he came, a village with the ruins of an ancient castle still retains his name ; and there are other places of the same appellation in Roxburgh- shire and in West Lothian.* The parish is 3 miles long from east to west, 2| broad, and con- tains 2926 statute acres. I ts form is nearly that of an oblong square, bounded by Linton, Walston, Dunsyre, and Kirkurd. Topographical Appearances. — Dolphinton hill is in height above the level of the sea about 1550 feet This and the hill of Wal- ston adjoining to it, are separated about a mile from the west end of the Pentlands, and form with Tinto, which is five miles to the west- ward, so many connecting links of one of the great collateral chains which gird our island, from St Abb's Head to Ailsay Craig. With the exception of Keir-hill, which rises in a conical shape about 250 feet high, the rest of the land in the parish is arable, with a moderate acclivity in an altitude of from 700 to 800 feet.f Meteorology* — During the last two months of spring and first of summer, the wind generally blows from the east or north-east. In March and April it dries up from the ground the stagnant mois- * In Douglas MS. Chronicle of England, Thomas Dolfine is recorded among the " greCe lordes of Sooteland** who were defeated at Halidon Hill in 1«^38. t Altitude of Garvaldfoot, as ascertained by Telford, 785 feet. The top of Dol- phinton-hill, as lately measured by the writer of this account, is 816 feet above the site of the manse. LANARK. D 50 LANARKSHIRE. ture of winter, pulverizes the seed-furrow, and extracts noxious mat- ter from the air ; but in May and June it retards vegetation and en- genders the grub worm. At this season, in consequence of copi- ous evaporations arising from the high comparative temperature of the German Ocean, (which in winter is three degrees colder, and in summer five degrees warmer than the Atlantic,) thick easterly hoars occasionally reach us from the coast. When the polar re- gions become warmer, the westerly winds get the ascendancy; and in winter they temper the air, sweep before them pestilential va- pours, and import from the green forests of America gases health- ier than those arising from the putrid vegetation of our own coun- try. The prevalence of these winds is indicated by the direction in which the branches of trees are inclined; and to shelter their na- ked trunk, nature has given a great-coat of cup, herbaceous, and thread-like lichen on its windward side, and on the westward skirts of our plantations. Climate. — Although most of the arable land lies 700 feet above the level of the sea, yet, as it is partially sheltered by nature and art, and as the rays of the sun are reflected from the hills on both sides of the valley, the temperature of the atmosphere is not so low as might have been expected. The average of the whole year may be about 45^ of Fahrenheit In other words, our climate is more affected by its relative than its real altitude ; and, to a certain extent, verifies the observation, that a height of 600 feet is equal to no more than a degree of latitude to the north. As the soil is now generally dry, and us the air is not too moist, epidemic dis- tempers are little known. Our artificial water-meadows may still create some unhealthy exhalations, and induce mildew on grain in harvest, but the extensive agricultural improvements lately effect- ed have substituted a purer air " for the putrid effluvia of the large moss to the eastward ;" doubled the husbandman's return pot ^* in late" but in seasonable harvests, and rendered " early frost in Au- gust and September, which oft-times formerly destroyed the crop in one night" of late years almost unknown. That the climate of this parish has been meliorated, and that agricultural improvements have operated to a certain extent in that result, cannot be denied. That the seasons are milder is also probable, and may be partly accounted for. But how in the time of the Romans this country' should have been so much warmer than France, as to ripen vines, when in Gaul they could not be cultivated ; how trees of enor- mous dimensions grew of old spontaneously where the ingenuity DOLPHINTOX. 51 of man can scarcely rear them to the tenth part of the size, or keep them alive beyond the age of their youth ; how wheat should have been anciently paid as a tithe to the neighbouring priory of Lesmahago, from lands where, under the present economy, oats can scarcely be ripened ; how the mark of the plough, like that of a field which has been under active culture, is seen much farther up the hill than it is now carried ; how farms in this vicinity, fitted out for the ancient wappingshaws three times the number of men and horses now maintained on them ; and how our very moors at present support less stock than they did at the date of Charters still extant, are important facts, never well accounted for ; the in- vestigation of which might discover the means of still farther reme<> dying the defects and improving the advantages of our northern climate. * Hydrography, — It is interesting to mark the local agents by which nature secures for her whole family an impartial distribu- tion of moisture, and to see how far the winds carry and mountains attract water to supply the animal and vegetable creation in every quarter. Notwithstanding that Dolphinton is distant fifty miles from the nearest point of the great reservoir of fluidity to Scotland, yet we have nine-tenths of our rain from the Atlantic Ocean. To se- cure this indispensable requisite, our hills run in ranges almost pa- rallel from the western to the eastern shore. Along the interven- ing valleys, as if through so many funnels, the watery clouds rush before the wind, dropping their golden showers. For twenty or thirty miles from the Ayrshire coast, the hills tower in regular succes- sion each above another, till they reach the western boundaries of Lanarkshire. The lofty ridge of the Lowthers overtops Caimtable by nearly 1000 feet ; and therefore not only draws up but breaks the clouds, and thus renders them lighter for the distant voyage east- ward. On this side of the Crawford mountains, and in the shel- tered vale of the Clyde, the atmosphere being much denser, buoys up the clouds, and conveys them as if along an aqueduct by Cul- ter-fell and Tinto, till Walston-mount and Dolphinton-hill get them in charge. Here, as was often observed in the extreme drought of summer 1826, when for four months every dark spot * Polybius describes the climate of Gaul and Germany as a perpetual winter. Di- odonis SiculuB says, that such was the piercing coldness of the air in Gaul, that it produced neither vines nor olives. Caesar and Tacitus both testify that our climate was milder than that of Gaul. And it is well known that the Romans obtained li- berly from one of their emperors to plant vineyards and make wine in Britain. 52 LANARKSHIRE. ill the sky was anxiously watched in vain, they diverge into three portions. One goes towards the south and east down the vale of the Lyne ; a second crosses in the opposite direction by Dunsyre and Midcorset; while the third and greater portion keeps the original tract by Mendick along the Pentlands. At the summit of Car- nethy, the highest hill of this range, a similar partition takes place. One division is carried towards Dalkeith, a second across the Forth, while the main body moves over Edinburgh by Arthur Seat. When moisture comes from the east, it is either in a creeping kaavy or in a storm, which, whether it be of rain or snow, usually lasts for three days. As a certain prognostic of a change of weather, it deserves to be mentioned, that in the memorable drought already referred to, the springs of water which had been long dried up, again gathered strength for several days before a drop of rain fell. This sii^lar phenomenon is probably refer- able to the same law of nature which in frost causes rheum to ooze from stone, earth, and trees, prior to any other sign of thaw. The average quantity of rain, so far as it has been ascertained by a guage lately kept at the manse, may be about 27 inches yearly. With the exception of the moisture from the north side of the parish, which falls in streamlets into the south Med win and Clyde, the waters of Dolphinton are carried in one small rivulet called Tairth, into the Lyne and Tweed. In the northern extremity of the parish, above Garvald House, the Medwin is separated into two portions. The one of these finds its way eastward into the Tweed, the other by keeping its natural course to the west, runs into the Clyde. It is said that salmon and salmon fry, but no pars, have been killed in the Clyde above Lanark. As these could never ascend the falls, fishers have been puzzled by the fact But it may perhaps be accounted for, from the topographical cir- cumstance here mentioned. The fish may go up the Tweed, Lyne, and Tairth, into the Medwin by its southern extremity ; and in going down the water, they may, from accident or design, take the western stream into the Clyde. Whether they are, in thus returning to the sea, dashed to death over the Corra Linn, or whether they succeed, by this new north-west passage, in ex- changing the German for the Atlantic Ocean as their home, can- not well be ascertained. Geology and Mineralogy, — The principal mineral in nine-tenths of the parish is whin or trap-rocks. These form a portion of the ex- tensive Phonolitic range, which nms from the confines of Ayrshire, DOLPHINTON. 53 by Haukshawhill, eastward by Tinto, and the Penilands. The whole of these hills, from their saddle-back shape, indicate to the first glance of the geologist, that they are composed of trap-tuff, or what is popularly styled rotten whin. It is said to be intermediate between the two classes of volcanic rocks, the basaltic and trachy- tic ; and to be composed chiefly of felspar and zeolite. It is not found here in beds, but has a massive form, so brittle as to fall into small pieces when dug up. In this parish it is mostly of a brown colour, and on the top of Dolphinton-hill it has much the appearance of burnt limestone before it is reduced to powder, by the application of moisture. Even the most adhesive portion of it, of which some of the dikes have unfortunately been built, when ex- posed for a few years to the atmosphere, first cracks, then falls down like a lime-«hell, and is finally reduced into mud. But it stands the weather better when pointed with lime. In the south side of the strath, beginning at the brook behind the manse, a stra- tum of sandstone, at first mixed with brittle trap and quartz, but after- wards much freer, appears. Its dip is towards the east and north, at a small angle. In the centre of our valley, to the north of the free- stone range, and to the south of that of the trap-tuff, an amygdaloidal ridge traverses the parish from east to west ; and a curious clink- stone porphyry is found in the quarry near Lockhead. Some ap- pearances of lead induced the proprietors of Newholm to make search for it ; but the attempt was ultimately abandoned. A vein of it probably stretches from Candy Bank eastward through this and the parish of Linton by Silver Holes. A sort of tilly substance is found in the south corner of the parish, which forms excellent oven-stones. Soil — It is said that in warm cUmates the Phonolitic districts are extremely fertile and well adapted to the culture of the vine ; and it is affirmed that this fertility arises from these rocks impart- ing to the soil during theif* decomposition a great quantity of al- kali. But in higher latitudes, such alluvial formations are general- ly meagre. In this parish the soil resting on these rocks is re- markable neither for its fertility nor sterility. In general, it is a dry friable earth or sandy loam, in some situations abundantly deep, but in others rather shallow. Our soil is more fertile towards the hill than in the plain below. A sort of clay-soil of a rusty iron colour abounds in the parish, and the subsoil is mostly of this na- ture. In a few low situations an imperfect moss earth has been 54 LANARKSHIRE. formed by stagnant water over the original soil, but in general it is free from damp. Botany. — The soil covering rotten whin is said to produce in this county only ling (Calluna vulffarisy) and similar plants equally worthless; but in this parish all the common grasses and other rural plants are found on the arable lands in abundance, and the swamps have their full proportion of marsh plants. Perhaps our failLs, al- though clothed with grass almost to the top, are deficient in the variety of alpine vegetation. Genista Anglica^ Newholm plantations ; Ribes cdpinunif west from Craft Andrew; Myriophyllum spicatunif in a ditch near town foot ; Equisetum hyemale^ at Nine Wells, are the rarest plants hitherto noticed in the parish. Hippuris vulgaris and Primula farinosay one of the rarest and prettiest of plants, may be found in three different habitats on the eastern confines of Dol- phinton.' The few following plants are mentioned as inhabitants of this district, not because they are rare, but as they afford a botanical index to the nature of our soil and climate, as connect- ed with the physical distribution of the vegetable creation. In the meadows, buckbean, sun-dew, orchis, meadow-sweet, marsh marigold, cotton-grass, louse-wort; on the hills, tormentil and foxglove ; in the plantations and fields not under cultivation, saxi- frage, wood-anemone ; and of the grasses, there are, in most abun- dance, bent, hair, sedge, foxtail, Timothy, fescue, and cocksfoot ; by the way side, stone-crop, ragged- Robin, self-heal, and most of the crow-foot varieties. Several of the fields at Garvaldfoot are, in spite of many judicious attempts to extirpate them, white in July, as if covered with snow, from the astonishing abundance of the ox-eye. Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum. There are no forests in the parish, but the trees in it show what may be produced. The heritors are still gradually extend- ing their plantations. As the parish is sheltered by nature from every quarter but from the windy west, two or three broad stripes stretching across the valley would be of essential service. ^ II. — Civil History.* Historical Notices. — Till the epoch of the revolution, Dolphin- ton belonged to the diocese of Glasgow, and deanery (or, after the year 1585, the presbytery) of Lanark. In 1644, when the • For Uie Civil and Ecclesiastical History of the Parish, see Chart. Paisley, No. Sd3, d42.—MS. RenUl-Book, II Privy Seal, Reg. xxzvii. 49, 51 Inquis. Spec. 237,260, 89a— Hamilton of Wishaw's MS. Account, 51 And Caledonia, iii. La- narkshire, pastitn. DOLPHINTON. 55 presbytery of Biggar was erected, this parish was included in its jurisdiction, and became part of the synod of Lothian and Tweeds dale. In the time of the sycophantish Baliol, and also after the disastrous defeat of David IL at Durham, when the English boast- ed that their marches were from Soutray to Carlops and Cross* cryne, Dolpbinton was a border parish. And, had the geographi- cal circumstances of the district been the rule by which parishes were originally classed, it would have belonged to Peebles-shire. The names of places, habitations, fosses, and sepulchres still extant, prove that the parish was anciently inhabited by the native Britons ; but no traces of the Romans now remain. The marks of the Romanised Britons have, from their original similarity, been long confounded with those of the British Gauls ; and even the foot- steps of the Saxons who, after the subversion of the Celtic domi- nion occupied this district, are few and indistinct. The dawn of our history as a separate parish begins with the acquisition of it by Dolfine. How long his descendants retained the territory has not been ascertained. But it is certain that the manor and pa- tronage of the church became an early pertinent of the baronial territory of Bothwell, and with it underwent the stormy changes of its brave proprietors. During the reign of Alexander III. Dol- pbinton belonged to Walter Olifard, Justiciary of Lothian, who died in 1242. It next passed, by marriage probably, to. Walter de Moray, the progenitor of Sir Andrew, who was the faithful part- ner in conunand with Wallace, the veteran champion with Bruce in all his victories, and the Regent of Scotland ui the minority of David IL Edward L gave it to Aymer de Vallence, Earl of Pembroke, when guardian for Scotland. In 1370, Johanna, only child of Sir Thomas Moray, carried it to the grim Archibald Douglas, Lord of Galloway, who, after the battle of Otterbum, became Earl of Douglas. In 1440, after the young Douglas was served at dinner in Edinburgh Castle with the ominous dessert of a bull's head, James Earl of Avondale became proprietor of our manor. In 1455, when a single battle at Abercom might have raised Douglas to the throne, but when his own indecision, and the desertion of Hamilton sunk him to an exile, Dolpbinton re- verted to the crown. In 1483, James IIL conferred it on Sir James Ramsay, one of the ablest of his favourites. After the as- sassination of James at Beaton's mill, Ramsay lost it by forfeiture, and Dolpbinton was, in 1488, given by James IV. to the masterof his household, Patrick Hepburn, Lord Hailes. In 1492, when the 56 LANARKSHIRE. • treasonable connection of the Earl of Angus with England became apparent, with a view to remove him from the conmiand of tlie border passes and forts, Hepburn gave him Dolphinton and other centrical lands in exchange for Liddesdale, and the strong castle of Hermitage ; but the superiority was retained till 1567, when it was forfeited by the restless James Earl of Bothwell, whose crimes caused Queen Mary's cruel fate, and his own imprisonment for ten years in a Norwegian dungeon. In 1581 this property was granted to Francis Stewart, who, in his turn, was created Earl Bothwell ; but in 1593 it was escheated to the crown by his at- tainder. Soon after this period the ancestors of the present noble family of Douglas acquired this manor. Chalmers says, in Caledo- nia, VoL iii. that, during the seventeenth and part of the eighteenth century, the lands of Dolphinton were held in property by the fa- mily of Brown, but on a stone in front of the burying-aisle for the predecessors and successors of William Brown of Dolphinton, the date 1517 is quite legible. In 1755, Kenneth Mackenzie, advo- cate, succeeded the Browns by marriage ; but Lord Douglas still retains the patronage, and most of the superiority. Exposed to the havock of border raids, and Annandale lifters, and thus identi- fied with the most memorable revolutions of the nation, it is pro- bable that in early times but a small proportion of our parishion- ers died in their bed. Eminent Men, — Major Learmont, an officer of skill and courage, was an elder of our congregation, and proprietor of Newholm, which is not situated in Peebles-shire, as stated in Sampson's Rid- dle, and in the Parliamentary records of the time, but in this pa- rish. In 1666, when the accidental scuffle in Galloway drove the Covenanters to arms, Learmont, Colonel Wallace, and Veitch, who lived at the hills of Dunsyre, went to Ayrshire to collect their friends. In Echard's History of England, and Law's Memorials, it is stated that Learmont was a tailor, — and Wodrow, instead of cor- recting the averment, merely rebuts the inference, by arguing that even a tailor may become eminent in the art of war. At the battle of Pentland-hills, he, as commander of the horsemen, led on the second attack, in which he carried every thing before him, and al- most captured the Duke of Hamilton. But when Dalziel brought up his whole left wing of cavalry, there being three to one against Learmont, he was borne down. He had his horse shot under him when drawing off his men. But he started back to a fold dike, killed one of the four dragoons who pursued him, and, mounting DOLPHINTON. 57 the dead man's horse, he made good his retreat in spite of the other three. After this unfortunate affair, the major's life and for- tunes were both forfeited in absence. The Laird of Wishaw, his brother-in-law, by paying a composition, obtained the property for the interest of Learmont's family.* Notwithstanding the share he had in these civil wars, he survived the revolution, and died at Newholm in 1693, in the 88th year of his age. Near the door of our church, under a rustic flat stone, without even the initials of his name, the mortal remains of the pious soldier now sleep in the still and peaceful bed where the weary are at rest, and where the prisoner hears no more the voice of his oppressor, f Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers conunence in 1 693, and have been but indifferently kept. A poem, in Latin, by Drum- mond of Hawthomden, is the only ancient paper relating to the parish. Antiquities, — The remains of a camp are yet in a tolerable state of preservation, on the top of Keir-hill; and there are others a few hun- dred yards above the church, at Chesterlees, and also at Ash-hill, and on the farm of Newmill. The British words caer and chesters, both signifying camp, show by whom these stations were occupied.— A tumulus of stones, to the height of four or five feet, witR a regular ring of larger stones, nearly sixty paces in circumference, on the height, about three quarters of a mile south-west of the manse, points out either a place of sacrifice under the Druids, or an en- closure of the summer residence of the native Britons. — A short way east from this station, an ornament of fine gold, resembling the * For sixteen years every endeavour was made to secure the major's person, — but he had a vault dug under ground, which long proved the meuis of safety to him. It entered from a small dark cellar which was used as a pantry, at the foot of the inside stair of the old mansion-house, descended below the foundation of the building, and issued at an abrupt bank of the Medwin, forty yards distant from the house, where a feal dike screened it firom view. When the noise of the cavalry reached the major's attentive ear, the blade of the tongs was applied to a small aperture fitted for the pur- pose of raising a flat stone, which neatly covered the entrance to the vault; and be- fore a door was opened, the Covenanter was safe. Tradition aayn that the man-ser- vant was three times led out blindfolded to be shot, because he would not betray the secret. Learmont having again taken the field at Bothwell Bridge, exposed himself anew to the fury of the persecutors. By the' treachery of a maid-servant, he was at last apprehended, and ordered for execution ; but the sentence of death was commut- ed into imprisonment on the Bass. f As these accounts, handed down for a century and a-half, had become confused, this detail was submitted to an intelligent lady, who was bom at Newholm upwards of ninety years ago. She stotes, that the stones of the vault were, at an early period, taken to build the garden wall ; therefore no trace of the retreat was found when New- holm house was last rebuilt. 58 LANARKSHIRE. snaffle-bit of a horse's bridle, with about forty gold beads, having the impression of a star, was found. — Stone coffins have been laid open in various parts of the parish, and there are innumerable ap- pearances of ^pulchral remains ; but whether they are those of Druidical victims sacrificed at their feasts, or of men slain in battle, cannot well be ascertained. IIL — Population. In 1755, th« population was 902 In 1791, - - . 200 In 1801, - . - 281 In 1811, ... 268 In 1821, ... 286 / Iniadl, - 275yiM.l2»mt^BDdl46fmak^* In 1831 the number of births was, .... IS of deaths, - - . - .7 of marriages, ..... 6 of persons under 16 years of a^ . . 84 upwards of 70, ... 5 of unmarried men and widowers upwards of 50 years o£ »gt, 6 of unmarried women upwards of 45, - . 4 Number of families in the parish, - .... 55 The average number of children in each fiunily, ... 5 The ttumber«c^ families chiefly engaged in agriculture, . . - 85 in trade and manufiustures, > 6 Ck>mparing the population with the extent of soil, there may be about 8| acres of arable land, and nearly dj acres of moor pasture to every individual. The people are generally industrious, sober, contented, and in- telligent. Tlie tenants have every qualification necessary for car- rying on the most improved courses of husbandry of which the district is susceptible. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, or the mechanical arts connected with husbandry, form our only branches of industry. The number of Scots sta- tute acres which have been cultivated is about 2000 ; uncultivat- ed 900, of which 200 or 300 might be reclaimed. There may be upwards of 300 acres in plantation. Rent of Land, — Rent may vary from Is. to L. 4 per acre. Ave- rage of arable land and meadows, L. 1 per acre. Average rent of * The actual population at the taking of the last Government census was 305, but the difference between the two numbers was owing to a contingent population being engaged at the time in making a new road. DOLPHINTON. 59 grazing, L. 3 per cow ; L. 1, 10s. for a two-year-old ; L. 1 for a one-year-old ; and 5s. for a full-grown sheep pastured for the year. The valuation of the parish of Dolphinton is L. 850. Of this amount Richard Mackenzie, of Dolphinton, Deputy-keeper of his Majesty's Signet, has L. 640 ; Charles Cuningham of Newholm, one of the city clerks of Edinburgh, has L. 180 ; and John Allan Wardrope of Garvaldfoot, has L. 30. In 1755» when Dr Webster's census was taken, the real rental of the pariah was near L. 400 Sterling. In 1792, when the last Statistical Account was drawn up, it was about L. 600, and it is now about L. 1700. Rate of Wages. — Labourers' wages, 10s. weekly : Artisans, 2s. 6d. per day. Breeds of Live &ocA.^— The sheep, of which there may be 1000, are, with the exception of a few Cheviots, of the black-faced breed. The cattle, of which there may be 200 milch cows, and 100 young, were formerly of an inferior kind, and kept chiefly for breeding and fattening ; but for some time past the dairy breed of cows have prevailed. In general, they are partly the Ayrshire breed trans- ported, and partly the native breed improved, by better feeding and a skilful crossing. Husbandry, — In few parishes has the state of husbandry been more improved within the memory of man than in Dolphinton. The era of its agricultural revolution may be dated from the ac- cession of Kenneth Mackenzie. Before his time, both the land and its occupiers were proverbially in a wretched condition. The houses were built of mud, and covered with turf. The outfield land was miserably flayed for the supply of fuel, and otherwise en- tirely neglected. The crofts were held in runrig, and under the servitude of sheep-pasturage during the winter. Even after the rest of the country had adopted the turnip and sown grass hus- bandry, the tenants here paid their rent mainly by driving lead to Leith, and purchasing south country meal at Peebles, and carting it to Carnwath. But Mr Mackenzie had the estate parcelled out by two intelligent neighbours intQ farms, so as to render each the most commodious for profitable occupancy, and given not to the highest offerer, but to the applicant who might in all respects be best qualified to stock and farm the lands, according to the stipu- lations. Dolphinton was in consequence much improved in a few years ; and the condition of the live-stock, of the implements of labour, and of the farmers, their families, and servants, have all made rapid advancement. Nor are, these improvements now by 60 LANARKSHiRK. any means stationary. Enclosing, planting, draining, levelling, and liming are yet carried on by all the proprietors. Wet lands, formerly not worth half-a-crown an acre, yield, by being convert- ed into water-meadows, 200, 300, or 400 stones of valuable hay. Till of late years the water-courses were narrow and crooked ; but now they are widened, deepened, and made strait One cut alone for the Medwin, from Newholm to Walston Mill, cost near L. 1000, and afforded the means to the different proprietors inte- rested of laying dry 600 Scotch statute acres, which it was former- ly impossible to drain. In a word, every encouragement is given to improvement by the proprietors : and no proprietors in this dis- trict are adding more every year to the value of their estates. Produce. — The gross amount of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Grain of aU kinds, S500 bolls, at 16s. . - L. 2800 PoUtoes, 2400 bolls, at 6s. . - - 720 Turnip, 12^ tons, at 4fi. - - - 250 Clover hay, 20,000 stones, at 6d. - - - 500 Meadow hay, 20,000 stones, at 4d. - - - S3d Pasture, rating it at L. 3 per cow, and allowing 2 acres for each cow, 200 cows, - - - . . 60000 1000 sheep, at 5s. each, - - - . 250 Young cattle raised, — young horses bred,— >grass seeds, swine, and other articles of which no particular account can be had, sold annuaUy, say 500 •L.5953 L.750 1500 560 560 70 1700 * At first sight, a landlord might reasonably be startled at receiving only L. 1700 of rental from nearly L. 6000 worth of produce, but from this amount there falls to be deducted, For fee and maintenance of 50 servants, say only at L. 1 5 each. For keep of cattle, young and old, 300, at L. 5 each. For seed-corn, 700 bolls, at 16s. For horse's feed, equal to seed, ... For seed-potatoes, at 4 bolls per acre, for 60 acres. For rent, - - - - . . L.5140 There thus appears to be a very small sum, indeed, for carrying the surplus pro- duce of the whole parish to market; keeping up houses, offices, fences, harness, ploughs barrows, carts, &c. — ^for maintaining, clothing, and educating children,— -for sustain- ing all losses by death of live-stock, &ilure of crop, fluctuation of markets, and bank- ruptcy of dealers, — for interest on capital sunk, and remuneration for work done by both husband and wife. Of old, when farming was profitable, three rents was the rule by which land was taken, one to the landlord, one to the farm, and the other to the servants, smith, wright, saddler, &c. But now that a rise has taken place in fees of servants and wages of mechanics, little less than four rents will enable a farmer to " pay day and way." DOLPHINTON. Gl V. — Parochial Economy. Markets — Means of Communication. — In 1693 an act of Par- liament was obtained for holding a weekly market and two annual fairs in Dolphinton ; and formerly there were corn, lint, and waulk- mills, with an inn at both ends of the parish ; but now there is no markets, fairs, village, post-office, public-house, mill, or manufac- tory of any kind. There may be two and a-half miles of turnpike- road, and five miles of parish-roads. The communication between Glasgow and Berwick might be much facilitated by avoiding the ridges of EUsrighill and Corsoncone, and by bringing the road up the Tairth and down the Medwin. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is too small for the congrega- tion, and of a homely exterior, but it is comfortable within. Our records bear that, prior to 1650, the glebe was far from the church and ^^ the gate to it foul," and that there was no manse for the mi- nister, who had flitted five times in the memory of man. A manse and glebe of eight acres were then designed at the kirk style. Soon after they were moved to Bankhead, and in 1718 to the present site. The present manse was built in 1770, and repaired and en- larged in 1814, and again in 1828^ so that it is now one of the best in the country. The glebe contains fourteen imperial acres. * In 1275, the whole spiritual revenues of Dolphinton were estimated at L, 3, 6s. 8d. Sterling. In 156 1 , they were let at L. 4, Ss. 4d. At this, the pe- riod of the Reformation, the stipend paid to the officiating minister amounted to L. 1, Ss. Ofd. Sterling. Prior to 1729, it was about L. 30 ; but it was soon after augmented to L. 47, 4s. 5d. ; and by the Government it is now raised to L. 150, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The parish seems from 'the earliest period to have been sup- plied with a church and priesthood, conformable to the existing establishment John de Saint Andrews, rector of this church, wit- nessed two charters, granted by Allan Bishop of Argyle at Paisley in September 1253. John Silvester, parson of Dolphinton, La- narkshire, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, in August 1296. At the reformation from popery, John Cockbum, brother of Sir James Cockburn of Skirling, was rector, and had been presented to the living by the well known Earl of Bothwell. In February 1561-2, Cockbum reported that the revenues of the parsonage * In BageiDont*s roll, Dolphinton ia taxed L. 4, being a tenth of the estimated value of its spiritual revenues. 62 r.ANARKSHinK. were then let at L. 50 yearly, from which there were paid L. 13, 8s. 8d. Scots yearly to the minister who served in the' church, and L. d, 6s. 8d. Scots, to the Archbishop of Glasgow, for pro^ curations and synodials. At the second reformation, viz. from prelacy, Alexander Sommerville, minister of this parish, acted a prominent part At the earliest stage of the struggle, he with Henderson and others, resisted the orders- of their archbishops to use the liturgy. When charged to obey on pain of imprisonmeot and ejection as a rebel, he supplicated the privy-council, and got the diligence suspended. He was appointed moderator of the La- nark presbytery in the place of the constant moderator for the bishops. He was also nominated one of the commissioners to at- tend the tables at Edinburgh. In 1638, he represented the pres- bytery at the memorable Glasgow assembly, and opened the busi- ness by preaching before an immense congregation, all armed with ** whingers." The presbytery of Biggar was, through his influence, erected in 1644. ' He died about the year 1649, and was succeed- ed, on 1st April 1650, by James Donaldson, who was ejected from his living in 1663 for nonconformity to prelacy. Immediately after the suspension of Donaldson, William Dogood ofiiciated as an Episcopalian clergjman. He was succeeded by Alexander Dour glas on the 28th September 1675. He went to Douglas, and was succeeded on the 24th April 1679 by Andrew Hamilton. He was succeeded by James Crookshanks, who was instituted 17th May 1684, and deposed for profane swearing. Donaldson was reinstated in 1688. John Sandilands was ordained January 1693; John San- dilands, his son, October 1711 ; John Bowie, May 1717; Thomas MacCurty, November 1770; James Ferguson, August 1773; John Gordon, March 1781 ; Robert Russell, March 1815; John Aiton, April 1825. There were formerly four dissenting churches within reach. Of these two are totally deserted, and the other two had been long without any stated pastors till of late. The average number of communicants is about 130, and of attenders on public worship 100. During the last seven years there have been five charitable collections, amounting in all to about L. 30. Education. — The school and dweUing-house are very comfort- able and commodious. The salary is L. 26, and the wages yield about L. 15. William Brown, about 1658, mortified four acres of land, now worth L. 8, for behoof of the schoolmaster, and 1000 merks, the interest of which is paid him for educating poor scholars. 4 DOLPHINTON. 63 He mortified 200 marks, the interest to be paid to the poor. He also mortified two acres of land to the minister, which has not been possessed by him since the revolution. Mr Bowie laid out 8000 merks for the lands of Stonypath ; and in 1759 he mortified them to the minister and kirk-session, to be disposed of as follows : 100 merks to the schoolmaster for educating 20 scholars ; 100 merks for educating any lad of a bright genius, to be allowed for six years, whom failing, to pay apprentice-fees ; 50 merks, either to be distributed among the poor of the parish, or to be laid out tn buying books for the poor scholars ; and 50 merks to the mini- ster, with all the other profits arising from the lands, to compen- sate for his trouble as factor. Poor. — There are 4 paupers, who receive at present L. 17 per annum. The whole yearly expenditure of the kirk-session is not less than L. 25. In 1755, the average of the ordinary collec- tions on Sabbath was Is. In 1792 it was Is. 6d. ; and for the last ten years it has averaged nearly Ss. lOd. The interest at four per cent of L. 250, invested on bond, yields L. 10. These sums, to- gether with lis. Id. being interest on Brown's mortification, and what is derived from proclamations and the use of the mortcloth, may amount to about L.21. Library. — In summer 1825, a parochial library was established, which, by liberal contributions in aid of the funds, now contains a considerable number of useful and well-read books. March 1834. PARISH OF DUNSYRE. PRESBYTERY OF BI66AR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. MR WILLIAM MEEK, MINISTER.* GEORGE C. RENTON, ASSISTANT. L — Topography and Natural History. ISfame and Boundaries. — Various etymologies have been given of the name. The most probable is, that it is compounded of Dvn and Seer^ the hill of the prophet The place seems to have been originally the site of a Druidical temple. The summit of the water-level, at the upper end of the parish, where the stream, by a single turf, might be sent either to the Clyde or the Tweed, to the Atlantic or the German Ocean, is 735 feet above high water at the Broomielaw at Glasgow. The parish is bounded by Dolphinton and Walston on the south-east and south ; Linton on the east and north ; West Calder on the north ; and Carnwath on the west. The extent of surface is 17.25 square miles, or 1 1071 imperial acres. Its form is nearly a parallelogram, having its longest sides lying south and north. Topographical Appearances. — The range of the Pentlands, which commences in the vicinity of Edinburgh, may be said to terminate with Dunsyre hill, after extending to the length of twenty miles. This hill is precipitous and rugged, composed of the same stone as Arthur Seat and Salisbury Craigs. It rises about 500 feet above the water level already stated; 1235 feet above high water at Glasgow. From it a range of hills verges towards the west, which gradually slopes into a flat towards Carnwath parish. In the valley betwixt Dunsyre and Walston ranges, runs the water Medwin, through a tract of flat ground about a mile in breadth and three in length, which in that.distance falls only about nine feet. There is a very large cave on the hill Craigengar, on the north- eastern boundary of this parish, which is said to have been a chief rendezvous of the gipsies or tinkers in this part of the country. • This Account was drawn up by the Hev. Mr Meek. DUNSYRE. 65 Meteorology, — In summer, Fahrenheit's thermometer averages from 60° to 70°, and in winter from 40° to 44° ; but in frost the range is from 22° to 34°. It has sometimes been as low as 16% but very seldom. The general range of the barometer is betwixt 29 and 30, so that the average may be stated at 2d.5. It has been as high as 30.6, and as low as 28.5 ; but these are extremes which it rarely approaches. The valley of Dunsyre lies almost due east and west, having on each side a range of hills. The rainbow often exhibits a most beautiful and imposing appearance in this valley. This generally happens where the sun is in the west. Three irises are usually seen: I have beheld three entire, and the fourth imperfectly formed. The most prevailing winds in the parish are those from the west. They often sweep the valley with great violence, being confined by the ranges of the mountains. The soft freestone with which the houses are generally built becomes damp several hours and even days previous to a storm of wind and rain ; a certain in* dication of a change of weather. As a symptom of the dampness of the cUmate, the doors in the interior of the houses frequently stand covered with drops of damp, which run in streams to the floor. This must arise in a great measure from the extent of flat marshy ground on the banks of the river, where the water is al- most in a stagnant state, and renders the river in many places im- passable. Rheumatism consequently prevails, and there are very few who escape its excruciating ravages. Nervous disorders, pro- bably originating in the same cause, are also common. Hydrography. — There is abundance of fine springs in this pa- rish. One which is in great esteem issues from a rock of whin- stone, on the face of Dunsyre-hill, and seems to be affected neither by sunamer drought nor winter rains. There is another very abundant spring on the glebe, called the Curate's well. It con- sists of two circular holes filled with soft sand, from which the water issues; and all around, the ground is composed of the hfiundest clay and graveL At intervals of five or ten minutes, it bubbles up at three apertures, as if it emitted air. There is ano- ther remarkable stream at Easton. It flows in great abundance, and if wood be left for any length of time in its waters, it becomes encrusted over with a white substance. It appears to issue from a red freestone rock, — ^as this seems to lie in a thick bed all around, three or four feet from the surface ; or perhaps from limestone which may be below the freestone. There is another fine spring LANARK. £ 66 LANARKSHIRE. on the farm of Auston Park, consecrated to St Bride, and re- markable for the abundant flow and purity of its waters. It ap- pears to rise from a bed of sand, upon approaching a lower seam of clay and gravel. On the verge of the marsh, there are many springs deeply charged with iron-ore, and seeming to rise either from that mixture or from coal. The only loch in the parish, the Craneloch, lies in an ele- vated situation in the moors, — upwards of 300 feet above the water level. It is about a mile in circumference, surrounded with marshy grounds and skirted with heath. All around, nothing is presented to the eye but a bleak inhospitable desert. The water is of . a dark mossy colour, of a pretty high temperature, and very deep. It abounds with pike and perch, which are allowed to enjoy their solitary wat.ers unmolested. Medwin is the chief stream in the parish, and rises in the north- east corner of it, near the foot of the hill Craigengar. It pursues a southerly direction for about six miles, when it suddenly turns to the west. It is here joined by a stream, called West Water, fully as large as itself, which rises amongst the range of hills in the northern side of the parish. It continues to run at a very slow rate along the vale of Dunsyre, forming the boundary be- twixt it and Dolphinton, and then that of Walston. Its greatest width is about thirty feet, its greatest depth about ten. It runs shallow and rapid in some places, but in general, from the flat- ness of the ground, its motion is slow and inert. Geology and Mineralogy. — Dunsy re-hill is composed partly of blue whinstone; partly of strata of freestone, dipping about an angle from 7° to 10° towards the north. The range which diverges from Dunsyre-hill contains deep beds of pure limestone, resembling gray marble; some of them eight and even sixteen feet deep. These beds are frequently cut across by dikes 'of clay, gravel, and loose blocks of the same material. In the channels of some of the streams which run down from the high ground are beds of what is denominated Coston limestone. This is apparently a mixture of sand and lime, which has been subjected to heat, and is extreme- ly hard. Some traces of iron-ore are to be found in these last-mentioned rocks in close union with the stone ; and copper-ore in some places has been discernible. Coal has also been considered as lying under these strata, and attempts have been made to dig it, but without success. A fair trial has never been made. The line of 3 DUNSYRE. 67 the seams which run across the island passes through Dunsyre to the east It has also been wrought about a mile to the west, and runs on to Douglas, and passes through Ayrshire to the Mull of Cantyre. Calc^spar is discernible in many parts in the parish. There are various alluvial deposits in this parish. At the foot of those streamlets which descend from the- high grounds are se- veral acres of fine soil carried upon the flat marshy land below. This soil is generally a mixture of clay and sand, of a reddish co- lour, and bears most excellent crops. The river has also, by being often flooded, deposited on its banks sand to the height, in some places, of two or three feet above the surrounding bog. This large flat is mostly composed of moss, — in some places eleven and even sixteen feet in depth. In digging down the one-half of that depth, it is found to become soft, and the water and sludge rise to the mouth of the pit. It lies in a kind of basin, whose bottom is adhe- sive clay. Branches and trunks of trees are everywhere deposited in it, and these are generally composed of hazel, alder, and willow. ' Soil. — The soil in this parish, especially in the eastern part, may be said to be generally sandy, and the grounds appear to have been, at one time, traversed by currents of water. Towards the west, the subsoil seems to consist of the debris of various hills ; among which are found stones of all kinds mixed with sand and clay, and occasionally transparent pebbles. These stones appear to have been rounded by attrition. The light sandy grounds in a few years are covered with heath, if not kept clear by the plough ; and the other soils become foul with rushes, paddock-pipes, and the coarse bog grasses. In many places the Yorkshire fog, as it is called, covers all the surface, particularly if inclined to moss. Zoology. — On this head, it may be only mentioned, that the gannet, or sea-gull, frequents this parish, especially when a storm of wind and rain is threatened. This appears rather singular in a parish situate nearly thirty miles from the sea coast. The lap- wing also migrates in flocks to this point during the summer sea- son, and has been known to continue during winter. The eagle is sometimes seen on the hills to the north of Dunsyre, particularly on Craigengar. There is plenty of grouse in these moors, and a few black game. The gray plover is everywhere to be seen. Wild ducks are numerous in the marshes ; and during a storm the parish is often visited with flocks of wild geese, to the amount of fifty or sixty in a covey. Medwin is a fine trouting stream. The trout are for the most 68 LANARKSHIRE. part red, of a considerable size, and reckoned superior in quality to those of either Clyde or Tweed. Pike of a very large size is often found in the deep parts of the river. IL — Civil History. Historical Notices, — Many distinguished characters have been proprietors in this parish. So early as the year 1147, William de Sommerville, the third of that noble family, afterwards Lord Som- merville, married Margaret, daughter of Gualter, who is designed of Newbigging, and Lord of Dunsyre. Sir Patrick Hepburn of Hales was, during his father's life, designed of Dunsyre, in the year 1450, who, on account of his great merit and fortune, was by King James IIL created a Baron or Lord of Parliament, ante anntnn 1456. Adam Second Lord Hales succeeded his father, during whose life he had been designed Adam Hepburn of Dun- syre. His successors were created Earls of Bothwell on the 5th of October 1488, and the last of the family was created Duke of Orkney by Queen Mary, whom he had afterwards the honour to marry. Archibald the Sixth Earl of Angus exchanged his castle and lands of hermitage in Liddesdale, with Hepburn Earl of Bothwell, for the castle of Bothwell in Clydesdale ; and hence this property fell into the hands of the Douglases. It has since belonged to va- rious individuals. Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart of Lee and Camwath, Ba- ronet, is now proprietor of almost the whole parish. The valua- tion of the parish, as fixed in 1733, amounted to L. 1450 Scots money ; of which Sir Norman Lockhart has L. 1383, 13s. 4d., and the remainder L. 66, 6s. 8d. belongs to the Rev. Mr Aiton, which was bequeathed by the late Rev. Mr Bowie, minister of Dolphin- ton, to the minister serving the cure of that parish. Parochial Registers,— T\ie earliest registers of the parish are dated June 7, 1690. By minute of that date, Mr Robert Skene, curate of the parish, is required to give up the kirk-box and key. They have been regularly kept till the year 1712. An interval then occurs till 1760 ; after which they are regularly kept to the present day. Antiquities, — The castles generally denominated fortalices, which were stationed in the valley of Dunsyre, establish the fact that the parish was well inhabited in early times. At Easter Sax- on there were no fewer of these than five. At Todholes, in the west DUNSYRE. 69 end of the parish, stood one of considerable strength, with a fossa around it There were castles of the same construction at Westhall Hills, Auston; and about 300 yards from the church stood the castle of Dunsyre. It had a vault on the ground story, with two apart- ments above, which were approached by a circular staircase at one of the comers. About eighty or a hundred years ago, the Baron baillie held his courts in this tower, and in the vaujit were kept the thumbkins and the boots for torture. On the death of the last baron, who is represented to have exercised a tyrannical sway, ths people of the village met, and destroyed these odious engines. Many Roman reliques have been found here. The line by which the army of Agricola reached the camp at Cleghom lies through the parish of Dunsyre, and the route can be traced up the county of Tweeddale. The entrance to the glen or valley where Dunsyre is situate is called the Garvald or Garrel ; it forms the most natural and easy communication betwixt the east and west of the plain. Through this rugged pass lies the Roman line, mark- ed out by a dike of earth. Several cairns occur here and in the neighbourhood; in some of which urns have been found. One of these is about 6 inches in diameter. It is composed of burnt clay, and rudely carved over. Its under part is narrow, of the shape of the human heart, and projects from the depth of 7 inches about 2^ towards the mouth.* Among the many places to which the champions of the Refor- mation fled for safety, Dunsyre was one of the chief. On the con- fines of this parish, where it borders with Lothian and Tweeddale, is a deep ravine, in the centre of which there is a laige collection of stones. This deep rugged spot bears the name of Rear's Kirke, which, in all probability, it received from one of the covenanting ministers. Covenanters. — One of the most celebrated preachers, Mr Wil- liam Veitch, was tenant in Westhills, which he was forced to aban- don after the battle of Pentlands in 1667. He was the person de- puted by the council of the covenanting army, while they were lying at Colinton, to go to Edinburgh to learn some intelligence of im- portance. He accomplished this mission with great difficulty, but without securing the slightest advantage. On returning, he was ac- cidentally surrounded by a troop of the enemy's cavalry, from which he escaped with difficulty, and fled to Dunsyre. Mr Veitch after- * Screral other ca'rns and urn» are noticed iu the original MS. 70 LANARKSHIRE. wards escaped to England; and after the Revolution became minis- ter of Peebles, and thereafter of Dmnfries. * , In 1669, Mr Donald Cargill, one of the most distinguished friends of freedom, whose persecutions were as remarkable as his conduct was courageous, preached his last sermon on Dunsyre common. He went, though contrary to the advice of his friends, to Andrew Fisher's^ at Covington Mill, where next day he was seized by Irvine of Bon- shaw. He was treated in the most ignominious manner ; his back was turned to the horse's head, his feet tied below its belly; and in this manner he was led through the streets of Lanark. He was afterwards hanged in the Grassmarket of Edinburgh, his head struck off and -fixed on the Netherbow port. There are several places in the moor which still go by the name oi preaching holes^ and which formed the retreat of the persecuted preachers. Into these they generally retired, while the congrega- tions dispersed at the approach of the persecutors. III. — Population. By the return made to Dr Webster about 1750, the population was 959 In 1783, ... - - 400 1791, - - - - 860 1815, according to census taken by minister, - 312 1821, - - - - - 290 1831, . - - . 885 The decrease has been owing to the union of small farms, and the dislike which the farmers entertain towards what are generally denominated cottars. 1 . Number of families in the parish, .... 57 of fiunilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - 26 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 19 2. Number ofunmarried men, bachelors or widower^, upwards of 50 years of age, IS of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, • 18 3. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, . - 6 of deaths, .....$ of marriages, . . . • 2| 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age. . - 105 upwards of 70, ... 7 No nobility, nor families of independent fortune reside in the pa- rish. There are only two proprietors, and both their properties are worth upwards of L. 50 annually. • Sec notice of M^or Learmonth in Account of Dophinton. DUNSYRE. 71 IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Eamomy. There are in the poiah, cultivated and occasionaUy in tillage, upwards of 9000 acres. Conatantly in pasture» many of which are waste and of very little value, 8000 Oy b ie of being improved by a judicious application of capital, 2000 Under wood, ...... .30 UndEhrided commoo, ...... q All the wood has been planted ; and, from being constantly cut without any new plantation, will very soon cease to exist altoge- ther. The trees are Scotch fir and larch. Rate of Wages. — Farm men-servants receive for summer and winter, being generally hired by the year, from L. 8 to L. 12, be- sides bed and board : females during the summer, L. 3, and dur- ing the winter from L. 2 to L. 2, 10s., bed and board. If the men are noiarried, they generally receive about L. 10 wages, and a free house, with a certain quantity of fuel driven. Masons' wages are about 2s. 6d. a-day, and a carpenter's nearly the same. Breeds of Live Stock, — Considerable attention has been paid to the breeds of sheep and cattle. The Cheviot are bought in some instances when hogs, and afterwards fattened on the turnips. The black-faced are the i staple breed, of which there are no fewer than 150 scores in the parish. They are also reared for fatten- ing on turnips. The Ayrshire breed of cattle is generally culti- vated, and a cross-breed of heavier stock is annuallv reared for draughting and feeding on turnips. Particular attention has been paid to the dairy. The number of milch cows kept by the farmer is generally betwixt 20 and 30. The milk-houses are fitted up in the neatest manner, so as to pre- serve the milk fresh and clean. The usual method is to make butter, which is salted and sold about Martinmas. Of the skim- med milk, cheeses are made, which are sold about the same time. Dmilop cheeses are also made, and rival any from Ayrshire. Husbandry. — The fourth rotation is that which is generally practised, as the soil will scarcely admit of a heavier cropping. Turnips are reared in great abundance, and few parishes can boast of so fine crops. The Medwin has lately been straightened, and will thus afford a facility for draining the surrounding bog. Draining has been car- ried on to a considerable extent ; and irrigation was first practised in this parish in the upper ward of Clydesdale, and has been im- proving constantly for the last twenty years. The late William 72 LANARKSHIRE. Brown, tenant at Mains, was the first to introduce the improved system of husbandry into this parish. Leases are granted for nineteen years. The farm-buildings are in general commodious, and in good repair. But the enclosures are few, and in a very indifferent condition. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domcstk animaU> ..... . L. 3864 Ofpototoes, - - - - - 270 00 Of turnips, ..... 1940 Of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, - • - 750 Of land in pasture, rating at L. 3 per cow or full-grown ox graced, or that may be grazed for the season, - - 978 Of land in pasture, rating at 5s. per ewe or full-grown sheep pastured, or that may be pastured for the year, ... 1250 Total yearly value of raw produce, - L. 9052 \) V. — Parochial Economy. Markei-Totvnsy 8fc. — The nearest market -towns are Camwath and Biggar : the former, about 6 miles from the village of Dun- syre, where there is a weekly market held on Friday, which may be said to be the chief resort for farm produce from this parish. Biggar is about 8 miles distant, and is attended from this parish principally for seed-corn in spring on Thursday, every week, and its fairs are frequented for horses, cattle, and lambs. Linton, however, in Tweeddale, which is about 6 miles distant, constitutes the principal sheep and wool market. Village, — Dunsyre village consists of a population of about 50 souls, chiefly composed of tradesmen, for the accommodation of the parish, — smiths, masons, wrights, tailors, shoemakers, &c. There was once a considerable village at Weston. But now the remaining cottages are chiefly inhabited by the servants and fami- lies belonging to the farms of that name. Means of Communication, — Dunsyre keeps up a weekly commu- nication with Edinburgh by means of carriers ; and the parish is traversed three or four times a-week by carriers from the vicinity of the metropolis. They purchase butter, eggs, and fowls, which are generally sold at the Saturday market. There is no post-oflice in the parish. Camwath is the chief post-town for Dunsyre. A runner from the post-office at Linton to Roberton, in Dolphinton, might be had twice a-week for L. 2 DUNSYRE. 73 yearly. Thisarrangement would serve three parishes, and pay back more than the outlay. Ecclesiattical State. — The parish church stands on a tumulus or mound, on the northern banks of the Medwin, and is quite con- veniently situate for the inhabitants. At what time the church was built is uncertain. About 1750 it was thatched vnith heath ; as it then appears to have received for the first time a slate rood At the Reformation, it had been built of the bam construction with the materials of an old Gothic building. In 1820 it under- went a complete repair; and a Gothic tower was erected at the east end, and on each side is a lofty Gothic window. It is seated to accommodate betwixt 240 and 250 sitters. The seats are all free. The heritors divided them amongst their tenants in proportion to their rentals ; and allotted a certain proportion to the village. The manse was built in 1756, and was pretty well repaired in 1815. It has now, however, become ruinous, and requires either to be rebuilt, or very thoroughly repaired. There is also a defi- ciency in the accommodation of office-houses. The glebe consists of fifteen English acres, exclusive of the site of the manse, and offices, and garden. It was subdivided and enclosed with stone dikes, and hedges, and rows of trees, by the present incumbent, and, being well drained, may be worth L. 30 or Lfo 40 annually. The church or linng was gifted to the Abbot and Convent of Kelso, betwixt the years 1180 and 1199, by Helias brother to Jocelyne, bishop of Glasgow, and held by that Convent from the twelfth century till the Reformation. This parish was a rectory of the monks of Kelso ; but the revenue they drew from thence till the year 1316, was not above L. 5, 6s. 8d. annually. At the Reformation the revenue increased to L. 20. In 1791-2 the sti- pend was L. 100, exclusive of manse and glebe, which last was es- timated at L. 10 a-year. In 181 1, when the Legislature augmented the livings below L. 150 to that sum, the living of Dunsyre on an average of the seven previous years was worth L. 114, 17s. 11 ^^^d. inclusive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. As the seven years average was taken when grain was very high, the deficiency in succeeding years became great ; and another act of Parliament was passed in 1824 to remedy the eviL Still, however, although a smaU addition was then made, it seldom happens, from the reduced price of grain, that the stipend rises to L. 150. It may be worth while to mention, that the minister was titular of the teinds, and still 74 LANARKSHIRE. continues to receive annually 15s. 2Jd. as feu-duty from the lands called Kirklands. There are no chapels or dissenting-houses in the parish ; and hence the parish church is generally well attended. The average number of communicants is about 170. The yearly average of collections for the last seven years, in- cluding fines, mortcloth, interest, &c, is L. 19, 2s. 6|d. Education. — There is only one parochial school in the parish. Latin is taught. The salary is about L. 28. The schoolmaster has the legal accommodation, though it is supposed there is defi- ciency of garden or glebe. There are no individuals in this parish who have not been taught from their infancy to read and write. Friendly Society. — A friendly society was instituted about the year 1799 : it continues, and has for its object to support the sick or disabled members, and to assist in the funeral expenses of hus- band or wife. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial assistance for the last seven years is 5?, and the sum annually allotted to each is about L. 6. The funds arising from collections, fines, mortcloths, proclamations, and interest of money lent out to the road trustees at five per cent., in general cover the expenditure ; but when found insufficient, recourse has been had to voluntary contributions. There was at one time an extreme aversion to receive parochial aid, and there are still many in necessitous circumstances who would feel degraded by accept- ing it. But the spirit of independence is gradually wearing away, and many consider it not only as not degrading, but talk of it as a right given to them by the law of the land. Alehouses. — There are no houses of this description in the pa- rish. Fuel. — The fuel generally used is coal, which is driven from a distance of twelve miles, and costs about 12s. a ton. A great deal of peat is dug. In the moors or in the marsh on the banks of the Medwin, it is to be had in great abundance, but coal is consi- dered more profitable. Miscellaneous Observations. When the former Statistical Account was published, the modem system of husbandry was little known, and as little practised. Nay, those who had the genius or the hardihood to deviate from the old beaten path were branded as visionaries. This, however, is not DUNSYRE. 75 the case in the present day : the farmers are active, industrious, and prosperous. The great want in this parish is shelter, — the farms, for the most part, being quite exposed to the sweep of the east and west winds. There is also a great deficiency in draining. About two years ago the Medwin, which ran in innumerable windings, was straightened for the distance of three miles. This work, however, has not been sufficiently done, as the water at the under part of the cut overflows its banks, in consequence of a mill-dam, which keeps back the water. This should be entirely removed to render the straightening effectual. Were the flat through which the cut runs sufficiently drained by ditches into the river, there would be recovered not less than 400 acres of the best land in the parish, — all of a deep rich water-borne soil, composed of decayed vegetables, and likely to be worth more than one-half of all the land under cultivation. At present the principal road nms from the one end of the pa- rish to the other nearly parallel with the river, at the distance of half a mile, and at the east end joins the public road from Edin- burgh to Biggar by a very circuitous route. Whereas, were it to be continued straight east through the Garvald, to join the same road near Linton, it would open up a most advantageous commu- nication. Revised April 1834. PARISH OF CARNWATH. PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR, THE REV. JAMES WALKER, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Extent^ S^c* — The parish of Carnwath is situated in the upper ward of Lanarkshire, 27 miles S. £. of Glasgow, and 25 miles S. W. of Edinburgh. In some of the old writings belong- ing to the family of Loekhart of Lee, who is now the proprietor of the estate, I find it frequently written Cairnwath. The name is descriptive of the situation of the place, as there is a cairn im- mediately west of the house and village of Carnwath, (which will be noticed more particularly afterwards,) and near the bottom of that cairn there is a wath^ which, as my predecessor remarks, means in the Saxon language ^ford. Such is probably the derivation of the name. The oldest people in the place report, that the waih oxford at the cairn was almost the only pass across the bum of Carnwath at all practicable before it was confined by a cut being made within a narrower space, and bridges thrown over it The parish is very extensive, being 12 miles from south to north, and 8 from east to west. Its form is pretty regular, (an oblong square,) and it is bounded on the west by the parish of Carstairs ; on the east by Dunsyre ; on the south by the parishes of Libberton and Pettinain ; and on the north by West Calder. Topographical Appearances, — There are no mountains, or even hills, which deserve the name, though there are two ranges of high ground which run through the parish, but which, even at their highest point, do not exceed 1200 feet above the level of the sea. The low and flat lands consist either of flow-moss, of which we have still a large extent, or holm, which stretches along the banks of Clyde and Med win, marking the south boundary of the parish. The climate is such as is experienced throughout Scotland at the same altitude above the level of the sea, — about 600 feet being the lowest elevation of any part of the parish ; and though there are still cases of rheumatism to be found among the inhabitants, they are certainly fewer than they were, owing, no doubt, to the drainings which have been executed to a great extent in every CARNWATH. 77 part of the parish within the last forty years. * No distemper, indeed, seems to prevail more than another, or can be attributed to the influence of the climate. Hydrography. — There are several mineral springs in different parts of the parish, but I am not aware that any of them have been analyzed, or have attracted particular notice. — The only loch worthy of notice is what is called the White Loch, immediately west of the village of Camwath. It covers about 80 acres, is of considerable depth in some places, and finely wooded on the south and west sides. It is more than a mile in circumference. A small kind of perch is the only fish found in it, and it is chiefly remark- able as the great rendezvous of the curlers of the district around. Besides eight or nine rinks^ as they are called, each rink consist- ing of eight individuals, whom the parish supplies, and who are to be seen contending with each other in generous rivalship, the curlers from other parishes also frequently meet here to decide the contest, and sometimes upwards of 200 combatants have been arrayed against each other on the slippery bosom of the loch.f Mineralogy. — On the north side of Dippool, coal, iron, and lime- stone are all to be found. The ridge of ground immediately north of its banks is chiefly filled with limestone, which is wrought exten- sively, and is the great depot from which this useful manure is sup*> plied to the surrounding country for many miles. It rises gradually from the moss on the north bank of the above rivulet, and which is generally improved to the extent of half a mile ; and the whole of the south acclivity from Westshiel to Eastsidewood has been par- tially wrought. The metals on this side are disposed as under : After ah'm'n^, as it is called, of from 20 to 27 feet, comes the lime- stone, generally about 6 feet in thickness,»-and under it, again, is found a seam of coal of 18g inches, which is generally sufficient for burning the limestone. All these dip towards the north or top of the ridge, while on the opposite, or north side, from the top of the * I IwTe observed more cases of cancer in the lip than of any other disease ; but these are not to be ascribed to any thing peculiar to the climate, but to the smoking of tobacco, and, especially, to the manner which I have seen that done. I once went into a house where a man was in the last stage of a disease of the kind. He was BtiU able to take his pipe, and, to my horror, I saw him hand it, when done, to one of his friends, who again handed it to another ; and both seemed to enjoy it as much as if it had never oome in contact with such a disease. f In the end of the year 18S8, a curling club was founded in the parish, un- der the aumioes of Aleiander Maedonald Lockhart, Esq. It consists of sixteen m ember s , aU resident, or bom within the barony of Carnwath. The club can, by means of its members, have two games going on at once, each member playing two stones. This is not the common way of playing the game in this country, where each player appears upon the ice with only one stone. Sixteen people are thus brought into close contact ; but the noise and conftision thus created are far from adding to the beauty or interest of the game. 78 LANARKSniUE. ridge to Cleugh-burn, where the limestone shows itself in great abundance, the dip is to the south. Trotibles^ as they are here called, frequently show themselves in the limestone, and add greatly to the expense of working it These troubles are from 4 to 6 feet in thickness, imbedded in the limestone, and they frequently cut it off altogether, but make no change in the coal or sandstone : and when cut out, which is done with great labour and expense, the lime- stone is found of equal quality with what was formerly obtained. They are formed of a substance here called Sklut^ which, though unable to withstand the influence of the sun or the action d{ the atmosphere, which soon crumbles it to pieces, resists the opera- tion of fire : hence they are generally employed for building the sides of the kilns in which the lime is burned. To give some idea of the disadvantage arising from these troubles^ it may be mention- ed, that the range of working at one of the most extensive lime- works on the south side of the ridge is about forty yards, and in that space one or more of these troubles are always met with. On the north side of the ridge above-mentioned, down to Cleugh* burn, presenting an extent of ground greater than the south side, the limestone is equally abundant, but, being unaccompanied with coal, has probably from this cause never been wrought to the same extent. On crossing Cleugh-burn, an immense field of coal presents itself, and from thence to the northern boundary of the parish, it is be- lieved that an inexhaustible store of this, as well as other minerals, is laid up. The coal has been wrought for time immemorial, but only partially, till about fifty years ago, when two brothers of the name of Wilson, Swedish merchants in London, commenced an iron foundry near a place called Forkens, and in a few years Wil- sontown rose into existence. Wilsontotvn Iron-works. — In the year 1779 the Messrs Wilsons commenced their preparatory operations for the iron-works, and, in 1780-81, began the manufacture of pig iron. The difficulties they had to contend with were numerous and various. The coal, where previously wrought, was found not well adapted to their pur- pose ; and though they had a sufficient supply at a greater depth of the very best kind, yet, from the quantity of water in the pits opened, and which (from the direction of the strata and the nature of the surface rendering it impossible to obtain a level) could only be cleared away by means of horses, they were forced to give up the attempt^ and to return to the coal where they first started. With the supply which this field afforded, the work went on with varied CARNWATH. 79 success, till in 1787 another furnace was built, and another blowing- engine of greater power was set agoing. In 178S-89, a steam- engine was erected to draw off the water from the minerals, and a large field of coal, extending both ways along the bearing of the strata, was thus obtained. The work was no# carried on with spirit, the weekly produce of the furnace increased, and, occasionally, a second furnace was set to work not only pig-iron, but great quantities of ballast for ships, and of shot, from 4 to 18 pounders inclusive. Pipes of various kinds, &c were made. In 1790-91, an extensive forge for the manufacture of blooms was erected; but this had not been at work above one year, when, unhappily, a mis- understanding arose among the partners, and a law-suit took place, the issue of which was a dissolution of the copartnery ; and, under the authority of the Court of Session, there was a sale of the works, lands, &c. which belonged to the Company. John Wilson Senior, of London, one of the former partners, became the purchaser. During the dispute the foi^ had been stopt, and only one furnace was kept going; but after the sale in 1798» the forge was again put to work with an addition of two hammers, and the two furnaces again brought into full operation. In a little time, too, a rolling-mill, on a most extensive scale, and fitted to roll and slit all kinds and sizes of iron, was built, and set to work ; a powerful blowing engine was erected ; and the weekly produce of the furnaces, which before this seldom exceeded twenty, was now increased to forty tons. A lease of Climpy coal was also at this time obtained, and a village built there, for the accommodation of the workmen. A chapel, con- nected with the Relief, was built in the middle of that village, and a minister ordained by the Relief presbytery ; in a word, in every department prosperity seemed to smile. The coal and iron-stone mines, the furnaces, the forges, the rolling-mill, the shops of smiths, carpenters, engineers, and mill-wrights, all were crowded with workmen. At the census taken in 1807, there were depending on the work for their support upwards of 2000 souls, and the monthly payments to the various work-people were not less than L.dOOO. This seeming prosperity, however, soon vanished ; for in 1807-8 the company became embarrassed, a severe depression in the iron tradeincreasedthisembarrassment, and made it fatal; and, in 1812, the works were stopt, and the whole population turned adrift upon the world. From that period, till 1821, they continued unoccu- pied, the machinery, of course, rusting, and the houses falling into ruins, when they were purchased by Mr Dixon of the Calder iron- works, whose son, Mr William Dixon, is now the proprietor. k 80 LANARKSHIRE. The failure of the Wilsontown iron-works gave a dreadful blow to the prosperity of that part of the country in which they are ^- tuated, and was felt not only in this parish, but in all the parishes around. It closed a market to the proprietors and tenants for al- most every kind of produce they had for sale, and which they found ever ready and convenient Many of the labourers, too, had all their hard-earned savings embarked with the company, and were in a moment reduced to a state of beggary ; and of the old and infirm, many who hoped to spend their old age in comfort and in- dependence, were added to the paupers' roll. Even to this day, indeed, the parish feels, in this way, the effect produced by the failure ; for though many of those who were thus ruined in their circumstances are dead, yet not a few still remain to swell our as- sessment. In a word, it may fairly be questioned whether the erec- tion of Wilsontown iron-works was advantageous to the parish or the contrary. They no doubt gave an impetus, while they flourish- ed, to improvements, which probably otherwise would never have been made; but there can be as little doubt that they have brought burdens on the heritors which they would never have been called to bear. As happens in most cases, where such a population has been collected, the morals of the people have also suffered severely, and the religious character of the former inhabitants has been exchanged for indifference and lukewarmness. But of this hereafter. The advantageous situation of Wilsontown as an iron work will best appear from a sketch of the minerals connected with, and be- longing to it. The Wilsontown coal-field lies in the form of an elliptical bason or trough, bearing east of north to west of south about three miles. The dip is at right angles to the bearing, and is in general about 07i€ to seven or eight. The main coal, called the ^^ four feet coal," is the lowest ; above it are several thinner seams, — one of which, resting on a stratum of fire-clay, is about two feet in thickness, and has been wrought occasionally, both for the use of the works and for sale. The ac- companying strata are numerous and various, — sandstone or Jree- stone of different texture and hardness, Jakes of various colours, blaes, (bituminous shale and slate-clay,) fire-day, small ribs of ironstone, &c. Above these, and about thirty fathoms above the main coal, there is a stratum of limestone of excellent qua- lity. It is five feet thick, and from it has been taken the whole supply for the use of the furnaces, and all the numerous and va- rious erections since the commencement of the works. About . CARNWATH. 81 fourteen fathoms below the main coal are strata of blaeSi va- rying in thickness from fourteen to twenty feet, while on the top of these lies the great freestone rock, from which have been taken ' all the stones for furnace hearths, and for building both works and village. A few feet under this rock are several strata of ironstone about three or four inches thick, which, when stript of the hlaes^ are to be seen lying in the form of parallelograms and squares, and which, though in close contact with each other, do not adhere ; and, though of different sizes, present the appearance of a regular laid pavement In the lowest part of the blaes are several strata of ironstone, all wrought together in one mine. The uppermost of these, seldom exceeding three inches thick, is called the " ^tted stone^** from its being mixed with small shells of a yellowish colour* Next is the hall stone^ which do not always lie in close or even continued succession, are sometimes large and sometimes small, and have sometimes gone out altogether, but are generally, in this case, succeeded by a close stratum of spotted stone. Two feet below this, there is a thin stratum, called from its colour the black band; and two feet, or little more, below it, lie the great bands. This is the strongest of them all, being six or seven inches thick^ lying also in the form of pavement. In some of the hitches or leaps of this stratum pieces of lead have been found. Ten or twelve fathoms below this, is a stratum of excellent light or candle coal^ which, in the old company's time, was wrought to some ex- tent. It varies in thickness, being on the north-east border of the field, near the boundary of the county, not above sixteen inches, while on the south-east, at Tashy-burn, it is two feet thick. The Climpy field of coal lies on the west side of the Wilson- town, — the crop of the one nearly approaching the other. It is undoubtedly of great extent. Its general bearing is the same as Wilsontown, — stretching to the south-west into the lands of Bir- nie-hall and Abbey, in the parish of Carstairs ; and to the north into the lands of Muldren, in the parish of West Calder. There can be little doubt but the Wilsontown, Cleugh, and Climpy fields of minerals are only successive continuations of the same strata ; and it may be worthy of remark here, that the same strata make their appearance a great way to the east. On the farm of Mosshat- burn-foot, they are to be seen cropping out^ apparently stretching away towards the lands of Wester and Easter Mosshat. At Moss- hat-bum-foot, indeed, the Wilsontown company wrought a consi- derable quantity of the same kind of stone, with the spotted stone at Wilsontown ; and it is not unlikely that the limestone formerly LANARK. ^ 82 LANARKSHIRE. wrought at Easter Mosshat and Urates (or Wolfrod) may be the same with the Climpy and Wilsontown, though perhaps differently modified. There are no dikesj properly so called, in the Wilsontown coal field, but there are several slips or hitches^ as they are here called, of some consequence. The second, from the south-west, may be distinctly seen in the Bum, a few yards above the bridge at Cleugh. It throws the strata a lonff way doum to the north-east ; and a sec* tion of the strata between the main coal and the Wilsontown spot* ted stone is at the above place finely displayed. At a considerable distance farther east, another slip or hitch up shows itself to from eighteen to twenty feet, and here may be seen an instance how slips sometimes derange the strata; for while on the south-westt or low side, the distance betwixt the main coal and the crate coalf next above, is in general about fourteen feet ; on the north-east, or upper side, the space is only about two feet. Still farther east, a fourth slip throws the strata again up^ perhaps even more than the last ; and here another instance of derangement presents itself, and that in the stratum of coal itself. Throughout the field to the south-west of this, there is a thin stratum of black stone in the coal, about eight or ten inches above the pavement, on the top of what is called the ground coaL This ground coal differs in appear- ance from the coal above it, called the wall coaL It is of a clear shining black, of a loose texture, and breaks into small cubes; where- as the wall coal is of a much firmer texture, of a splinty nature, and much of it of a rough fracture. Besides these, there is be- twixt the two slips a very little above the black stone, a stratum of very good candle coal, from four to five inches thick ; but after passing the last mentioned slip, none of these are to be seen, while a stratum of blackish stone, of a foot to eighteen inches, shows it- self, dividing the bed or seam of coal into strata of nearly equal thick- ness, and without increase or diminution of quantity upon the whole. The Jlssures or veins are not what practical men call direct, but sometimes incline to the right, and sometimes to the left. The second and third formerly mentioned incline to each other, and will at last meet, unless, indeed, they are partially deranged, or cut off altogether by the twisting and bending of the strata at the hol- low of the trough, which, indeed, there is reason to suspect, as they have not been seen in the Climpy field. From what has thus been stated respecting the minerals laid up at Wilsontown and in the neighbourhood, it will readily be seen how advantageous the situation is for an iron-work. Every thing CARNWATH. 83 required is here brought together ; and in such quantities too, that I find it reported by a person employed in 1797 to examine the state of the minerals, that, ^^ from what he had explored, 40,000 tons of iron might be made annually for the space of ninety years ! that the supply of ironstone is inexhaustible," &c. * 11. — Civil History. Antiquities, — There are few antiquities in the parish worthy of notice. The cairn or moat at the west end of the village, to which reference has been already made, is evidently artificial, but at what time it was raised, or for what purpose, I have been unable to ascertain. It is of a form somewhat elliptical, the diameter from east to west being longer than from north to south. There is a hollow on the top, where, it is said, there was the entrance to a rude stair that reached to the bottom. This has suggested the idea, that the moat was intended as a burying-place, though tradition speaks of it as a place of concealment for the plate, &c belong- ing to the family of Carnwath, in the troublous times of Bruce and BalioL It has evidently been a place of strength, as it is sur- rounded by a deep ditch, and large mound, f though for what pur- pose it was raised must remain unknown. The present proprietor, Sir N. Macdonald Lockhart, Bart, has, during the last season, encircled it with a ditch and nedge, and planted it with hard wood^ the Scotch fir never having thriven well upon it These trees a colony of crows has now taken possession of, and seems determined to destroy, by the load of nests, — having, it is worthy of remark, returned only lately, after an absence of forty or fifty years. North and west from the cairn, on the other side of the moss, are the ruins of Couthalley Castle, formerly the residence of the * The above was communicated to me, in so far aa the minerahi of Wilsontown are concerned, by Mr James Meaaon, formerly a clerk at the works, and now teadi- inga small school in the village of Forth. The distance of Wilsontown from the sea is no doubt a great drawback on the works, — the iron having to be conveyed to Borrowstounness, a distance of eighteen miles. This the Union Canal will, perhaps, in some measure remedy. -t* The SommerviUe papers mention this mound as a memorial of the first Baron Sommerville's firm adherence to the *' Brucean interest," in opposition to the " Bal- liol faction.** Thus, after stating, that ** during all the days of his life he was a con- stant follower of King Robert Bruce, and ane adherer to his sone King David's in- terest when it was in the most desperate condition," they thus proceed : ** Witnes his casting up a quantitie of earth, of his lands upon the south-west of Carnwath . toune, which makeing a little hill, *tis called yet, omnU terra. This was the cus- tome of these tymes, by which homage they that held the King of Scotland supreme under God wcr distinguished from the BaUiol party, or such as owed any homage to the King of England.** Of such a custom we have no trace, so fiu* as I know, in Scottish history — and the name omnit terra, I never heard applied to the mound in question».and perhaps, af- ter an, it may be regarded only as a look-out sUtion, connected with Couthalley castle, as it commands an extensive view of the country around, and is distinctly seen from the opposite side of the moss, where the remains of the castle stand. 84 LANARKSHIRE. ancient family of Sommerville, one of the most opulent and power- ful families in this part of the country, about the middle of the twelfth century. Hither James the Sixth seems frequently to have repaired, perhaps to enjoy his favourite sport of hunting, and here he seems also to have sometime spent a considerable portion of his time, as some of the charters granted by him are dated at Couthalley.* The castle is now a complete ruin, though its extent may yet be marked ; and, from its situation, surrounded on every side by a deep ditch and earthen mound, with a drawbridge on the west, it must have been a place of very great strength. It is situated on the property of John Wilson of Westsidewood, but Sir N. Mae- donald Lockhart, Bart is the hereditary Keeper of it* But the most perfect piece of antiquity which is presented in the parish is the aisle which we have already mentioned, and which, though built in 1 424, retains much of its original beauty and gran- deur. It is a Gothic structure, covered with freestone flags; and the north window especially appears to have been a beautiful piece of workmanship. It has, successively, been the burying place of the Sommerville family, of the Dalziels, Earls of Carnwath, and now of a branch of the Lockhart family. The church, to which, no doubt, it was attached, and of which it formed a part, was founded in 1386, and endowed by the existing Lord Sommerville in 1424, with some lands, which the relict of one of his successors in vain endeavoured to resume. It was founded for a provost and six prebendaries, and there was at the same time, and by the same person, provision made for the maintenance of eight poor old men ; but when or how this provision ceased is now unknown. IIL — Population. 1. Population in 1755, - ... - 2390 1821. - ... 2888 1831, ... - 3505 Numbers in villages, ... . 1858 2. Average of births for the last seven years, but many of the dissenters are not registered, and consequently are not reckoned here, - - 90^ Average of deaths for the last five years, . . - 45 Do. marriages do. - - - - 27y 3. Number of families, . . _ . . 757 families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 169 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 185 Average number of persons in each, (nearly) - - 4^^ 4. Number of inhabited houses, . . . 707 Do. not inhabited, - . - - 181 * Tlie castle of Couthalley, according to the Sommerville papers, was burned down in 1 320, and there is no record, so far as I have been able to ascertain, when or by whom it was rebuilt. It was burned, no doubt, during some of the inroads of the English, which were so frequent at the time, and led to the building of what is called in the above-mentioned papers " the double tour in Carnwath towne,'* Of this ** double tour** not a vestige remains, though the situation of it is marked out by certain lands being still called Castle Sommerville. CARNWATH. 85 The number of uninhabited houses arises from the breaking up of the Wilsontown iron-works, which, though begun again, are carried on upon a very different scale. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — According to Forrest's map, there are 25193 acres Scotch measure in the parish. Of these not more than one-third are in cultivation. The number of Scotch acres which remain constantly uncultivated, - 12000 That might be cultivated with a profitable application of capital, though a great outlay of money would be required, probably - - 4400 In undivided common, .... . -70 Under wood, ..... . . 400 Husbandry, — Irrigation is carried on to a considerable extent in many parts of the parish, though in very few scientifically, — ^most of the farmers and proprietors seeming to imagine that there is no difficulty in laying out and managing a water meadow. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. The state of farm-buildings is improving : the byre, the stable, and the bam all seem to oc- cupy the chief attention in rearing a steading in this country ; and though on the estate of Camwath there are now a number of ex- cellent dwelling-houses, yet, generally, the accommodation of the farmer's family seems to have been only a secondary consideration. The systems of agriculture pursued in the parish are different in different situations. On one side there is strong and wet clay, and on another a light gravelly soil ; in one part a deep black loam, and in another little else but moss. The same rotation, therefore, and the same mode of management (iannot be pursued. From Dippool, a small rivulet which divides the parish into nearly equal portions, to the north boundary, clay and moss generally prevail ; and though great improvements have been made on both, the close retentive bottom of the one, and the immense depth of the other, baffle the attempts of the husbandman. South from Dippool to the Clyde and Medwin, the soil and climate are very different; and though there are in this part also immense fields of moss, yet the most approved systems of agriculture are generally fol- lowed. Little wheat is, indeed, sown, but there is a great extent of turnips and potatoes, barley and oats, hay and pasture on every farm. The rotation followed in this part of the parish is generally as follows : — \st^ Oats after hay, or two years' pasture. 2rf, Turnips or potatoes, the turnips either shawed and rooted, and carried home to the feeding stock and cows, or ate off by sheep. 3rf, Bar^ ley or oats, sown down with grasses of various kinds, viz. ryegrass, red, white, and yellow clover. The four-course shift, as it has 86 LANARKSHIRE. been called by agriculturists, was followed here for a course of years, and is in some cases still retained, but it has been found by our experienced farmers far too severe, and has been given up. The introduction of bone dust for raising turnip forms a new era in the history of the agriculture of this district, and promises to be of essential consequence to the farmer. It was introduced on- ly about five years ago by one of our oldest and most enterprising farmers, and there is hardly any one of capital op this south side of the parish who does not use it. The turnips raised by it are ge- nerally ate off by sheep, and thus, while the sheep pay well, the field is left in the very best order for barley, with grass seeds. By the use of it, too, the manure made at the steading by the cattle fed there, and the cows kept, which are both numerous, can be applied to other grounds, or the farmer is enabled to extend his quantity of green crop. The bone dust has been confined here chiefly to the raising of turnip ; but Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart when factor on the estate of Camwath, applied it to top-dressing, and with every promise of success. A very dif- ferent mode of culture is followed in the northern part of the pa- rish. Oats are chiefly raised ; and only as many turnips as will keep a few cows giving milk through the winter, while the quan- tity of potatoes is generally restricted to what is necessary for fa- mily use. This is caused by the nature of the soil, which is ge- rally a wet clay, lying on a close bottom of till. Some most suc- cessful attempts have been made, however, of late to introduce a much greater extent of green crop into this part of the parish ; and in a few years as great a change may be expected on the clayey, as has already been made on the mossy grounds. The latter, however, have occupied the chief attention of the farmer in this quarter for a number of years back ; and I may state, that within the last thirty years there has been taken out of moss, and brought into crop, from 800 to 1000 acres. The greater part of this ground was unproductive, being saturated with mois- ture, and incapable of being pastured. Where any thing like grass was produced, it was generally cut in the month of August, and converted into a kind of meadow hay, but of so coarse a kind that it was of little use, except for litter. In places, however, where this used to be the only produce, we have now most luxuriant crops of oats and hay, and even of rich pasture. The mode followed in operating this wonderful change has generally been the following : The field is first laid dry, dug, limed, ^nd dunged, and two crops of oats taken. It is then sown down with rye-grass, Yorkshire CARNWATH. 87 f<^, and white clover, and left to lie some years in grass. At the end of this period it is taken up again, and one or two crops, as before, are received from it, when it is again laid down, dung be- ing applied with the crop, among which the grass-seeds are sown, and, if well enough broken, the field is left to be as permanent pas- ture. The great expense of digging has prevented many addi- tional acres within the bounds of the parish from being cultivated in the same way ; but an improvement has been introduced of. late years which promises to obviate in some measure this difficulty. Wedge-draining has been followed in some places to a considera- ble extent, and with complete success. By the use of it fields of moss, which, in common language, would not carry a sparrow, have been so completely dried, that the plough has been introdu- ced, and done its work as successfully as on any other part of the farm. In almost every corner of the parish improvements of the above descriptions have been in progress, within the last twenty years especially, and most successfully on the properties which lie on the banks of Dippool, Medwin, and Cleughbum. Dairy System. — The dairy system is carried on almost on every farm to a great extent, and with great success. Some of the far- mers keep twenty cows, and the prizes awarded by the Highland Society to the district for the best managed dairy, and the best made cheese, have, in almost every instance, found their way to this pa- rish. The cheese is of the kind called Dunlop, and most of it is carried to Edinburgh, where it is sold at from L. 2 to L. 3 per cwt. Rent of Land. — The rent of land per acre is very different, ac- cording to circumstances and situation. Thus, immediately around the village of Camwath, L. 4, and even L. 5 are paid for an acre, and four guineas is the common grass mail for a milk cow, while not much more than a mile from the same village, a hundred acres will not bring much more than any of these sums. In the upper part of the parish the same disparity prevails, but it may be men- tioned, that, after the most minute investigation, the present in- cumbent, in 1822, gave in the rental to the Court of Teinds at L. 14,000 a-year. Since that period he has no reason to think that it is lessened, though the liberality of Sir C. Macdonald Lock- hart's deductions to his tenants have been such as to reduce it some- what, so far as he was concerned. Bate of Wages. — The wages of a good ploughman are from L. 6 to L. 8 a half year ; of a female servant, from L. 3 to L. 4 for the same time; of a labourer, from Is. 6d. to 2s. a day, in summer; of a shearer (man) L. 2, of a woman 35s.- 88 LANARKSHIRE. Breeds of Live Stock. — It can hardly be said that there is a flock of sheep in the parish, though we have them of all kinds, as black- faced, Leicester, and Cheviot. The first are bred on the moor- land and high part of the parish; the second fattened on some of our best farms ; and the third only are bought in, to eat ofi* the turnip in winter. The breed of cattle is chiefly what is called the Ayrshire. The cows are almost universally Ayrshire, as these are accounted best for the dairj' ; and while the quey c«alves are reared in numbers, and with the utmost care, the bulls are fattened and sent as veal to the Edinburgh markets V. — Parochial Economy. Village. — The village of Carnwath is much changed for the better within the last twenty years. Formerly its streets were encumbered with dung-hills and peat-stacks, which are now all swept away ; and even the old houses now present an appearance of comfort and clean- liness. Many of the new houses are handsome ; and should Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart, succeed in his plans of feu- ing, which he has already done to a considerable extent, the next twenty years will do more for its improvement than even the last. Means of Communication. — The roads throughout the parish are in a far better state than formerly ; and there is one change which deserves to be particularly marked, as by it the neighbouring parishes are in a manner brought nearer to each other, and a new thoroughfare is opened to the country at large. The Clyde, which is the boundary of the parish on the south and south-west, often over-^ flows its banks, and even long before it does so becomes impassable by the fords. For at least nine months in the year the parishes of Pet- tinain and Carnwath were thus separated by 8 or 9 miles. To this I have been exposed even in the month of July, while the distance betwixt the one place and the other was not above 2^ miles. This led the proprietors on both sides to think of some means of commu- nication more direct and convenient ; and about five years ago a boat or float was erected, and has ever since continued to ply on the river, to the immense comfort and accommodation of the in- habitants on both sides, as well as of the country in general. The float is large, running upon a chain, and two or even three loaded carts can pass on it at a time. Thus a new outlet for the lime and coal of the parish is opened up, and were the roads on each side more improved, they would obtain ar sale much more extend- ed than ever they have yet done. The Clyde is, indeed, still im- passable during soipe of the winter floods, the holms on each side (3 CARNWATH. 89 being so extensive ; but this continues only for a few hours, and were th^ south pier raised a few feet, which the proprietors talk of doing, the river will be impassable for even a shorter period. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is most inconveniently situated for the great body of the parishioners, being placed at the south and west end of the parish. There are, indeed, only two fa- milies immediately to the west, and not above ten or twelve on the south of the church. Many families are thus placed six and seven miles from the enjoyment of public ordinances, and in a high coun- try such as this is, it is not to be expected that in winter the in- habitants of the upper districts are to attend regularly. Of them in general, however, I am happy to speak in terms of high commen- dation, and many a day their pews may be seen filled, while many who are within hearing of the Sabbath bell obey not the summons which it sends forth. The church was built in 1798, and is neither elegant nor commodious. * Being set down close beside the aisle of the old one, which, though built in 1424, still remains a hand- some Gothic structure ; the contrast only serves to indicate the different spirit in which these things were gone about in the fif- teenth and in the eighteenth century. It is seated for 1100 people, and is, of course, too small for our population, and were it not for the accommodation afforded by dis- senters, many of the parishioners would have no opportunity of re- ceiving religious instruction. At our communion, indeed, a large body of the communicants are obliged to be without doors alto- gether. The seats erected for the communion table were, till within these few years, appropriated to the use of the poor, but one of them is now occupied by an heritor and his family, of course, with the consent of the other heritors. The manse was built in 1817, and is, upon the whole, substan- tial and convenient The glebe consists of ten acres, lying imme- diately round the manse, and since the improvements made upon it, by ditching, draining, and levelling, is not unproductive. It is worth L. 2 per acre, though the land in the crofts aroimd the vil- lage brings a much higher price, people paying for convenience, rather than going to market for every thing they need. The amount of stipend is 16 chalders, 8 of meal, and 8 of barley, and L. 10 for communion elements. * The church was last year very much improved, both internally and externally. The ceiling, which was very much broken, was completely renewed ; the whole in- terior white-washed, and a stove erected. I have little doubt, but in a few years, this last improvement will repay it«wners, — There are seven heritors, all of them proprie- tors of land upwards of the yearly value of L. 50. The two prin- cipal are Lord Douglas, and Lockhart of Cleghom. The only resident heritor at present is Thomas Gibson, Esq. of Eastfield. Macqueen, late Lord Justice- Clerk, bought the estate of Har- dington, or Bagbie, as it was then called, which he very much im- proved, and where he occasionally resided. Hardington House is at present occupied by his grandson, Robert Macqueen, Esq. Younger of Braxfield. WISTON AND ROBERTON. 95 Parochial Registers. — The books belonging to the kirk-session of the old parish of Roberton have unfortunately been lost, and no trace of them can be discovered. The earliest of those belong- ing to the old parish of Wiston bears the date of 1694, and with occasional, but trifling interruptions, they are extant from that pe- riod to the present III. — Population. The return to Dr Webster in 1755, the earliest account of the population of the parish that we have been able to discover, gave from Wistdta 591, and from Roberton, 511, in all 1102. From a census taken by the writer in the month of February last, it ap- pears that the present population of the united parish is 949, or 153 less than it was about eighty years ago. In 1791, the popu- lation was only 740, or 362 less than it was about forty years be- fore. This large decrease was easily accounted for, from the cir- cumstance, thatbeween the years 1755 and 1791, the system had come into vogue of throwing several small farms into one large farm, and, as a matter of course, driving the small tenants, with their families, out of the parish ; and the very gradual increase which has since taken place is as easily accounted for on merely na- tural principles. There are three villages in the parish, Roberton, Wiston, and Newton of Wiston. And from the census taken in February last, it appears that there were then residing in the vil- lage of Roberton, 235 ; in the village of Wiston, 123 ; in the vil- lage of Newton, 56 ; and in what may be called the country parts of the parish, 535. There is qo register of deaths kept in this parish. The births average from 15 to 20, and the marriages about 7 a year. 1. Number of &inilies in Uie parish, - - - - 180 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 80 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 48 S. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 1 7 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45^ - 49 8. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 358 betwixt 15 and SO, - . 262 80 and 50, - 161 50 and 70, - - 151 upwards of 70, . - - 24 Perhaps it may be worth mentioning, that a week or two ago, an aged couple, who, for upwards of half a century had trode the path of life together, died within a few days of each other ; the husband at the advanced age of 82, and the wife ten years older. Custams^^c. of the People. — Notvery many years ago, cock-fight- ing and foot-ball were favourite amusements in this district, and were frequently made the subject of a trial of strength between two 96 LANARKSHIRE. rival parishes. They are now sunk into merited oblivion, and their place is well supplied by the not less interesting, and far less eX't- ceptionable amusement of curling. In their domestic character and habits the people generally are manifestly improving; and though there is still ample room for amendment, it is evident that the indolent, slovenly, " canna' be fashed" system of the last cen-; tury is fast falling into disrepute, and yielding to a taste for neat- ness, and a habit of cleanliness, both as to their houses and their persons, the effects of which are already apparent The farmers are active, intelligent, and hospitable. Equally remcfved, on the one hand, from the conditions and character of the mere serf, and, on the other, from that of the gentleman farmer, they are, some of them, wealthy, and all of them able to make a respectable ap- pearance, enjoy in abundance the necessaries of life, and are be- coming daily more alive to its comforts and its elegancies, llie lower orders are in general comfortable in their circumstances, and contented with their lot ; honest, industrious, and sober ; inferior to no peasantry in Scotland in point of intelligence, and unstained by the prevalence of any particular vice, — poaching, perhaps, ex- cepted, which, in the eyes of some, seems to possess an attraction absolutely irresistible. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — There are about 2183 acres in this parish in constant rotation ; about 1600 occasionally in til- lage ; about 5388 which never have been cultivated, and which re- main constantly waste, or in sheep pasture ; and at least 1500 which, with a profitable application of capital, might be added to the cultivated land of the parish, whether that land were afterwards to be kept in occasional tillage, or in permanent pasture. There is no land in this parish in a state of undivided common. There are only about 200 acres under wood, none of it indigenous ; of these nearly one-half have been planted within these few years on the property of Lockhart of Cleghorn. The wooded grounds are judiciously laid out, and are carefully attended to. The wood thrives remarkably well, and promises, ere long, to give a new face to this part of the parish, and holds out every encouragement to the other proprietors to beautify and improve their properties in a simi- lar manner. It consists, in general, of larch and Scotch fir, with a sprinkling of hardwood, in the proportion, perhaps, of twenty, of the former to one of the latter. Rent of Land, — The land in this parish is of such various value, some of it being worth, perhaps, L.4 per acre, and some of it WISTON AND KODERTON. 97 scarcely 4d., that it is difficult to say what is its average rent. Of the land constantly in rotation, perhaps L.2, 10s. may be taken as a pretty fair average; and of that which is only occasionally in til- lage, perhaps 15s. The average rate of grazing is L.d for an ox or cow, and 5s. for a ewe or full-grown sheep pastured for the year. Rate of Wages. — The rate of labour, winter and summer, for {utn-labourers is Is. 4d., and for country artisans, 2s. 6d. per day, victuals included ; for a man-servant, L. 12, and a woman-servant, L5, 15s. per annum. Livestock, §*c. — There are about 185 scores of sheep in the parish, chiefly of the black-faced Linton breed ; about 366 milk cows, principally of the Ayrshire breed, though a new species has lately been introduced, and found upon trial to be of superior qua- lity, viz. the Lanarkshire newly improved breed, crossed by Ayr- shire cow and short-homed bull, or vice versa ; and about 76 horses employed in agriculture, of the Clydesdale breed. There is an evident growing attention to the improvement of the breeds of sheep and cattle, to which, perhaps, the various cattle shows in the neighbourhood have not a little contributed ; and, indeed, the cha- nicter of the husbandry in general has of late very much improved, and is still improving, particularly as to the reclaiming of waste land, draining and liming. As a proof of which, I may state that one of our farmers, Mr Muir, Hardington Mains, obtained this year the silver medal given by the Highland Society for the re- claiming of waste land ; and I believe that another, Mr Wilson, Hillend, would have been equally successful had he chosen to ap- ply. It is right to add, that the merit of whatever has been done in this respect is almost entirely due to the tenants themselves, vho receive in general but too little assistance from their respec- tive proprietors. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish cannot be exactly ascertained; but it is believed that the lollowing is nearly correct : Produce of grain of all kinds, ... Potatoes and turnips, - - - - Haj, meadow and cultivated, - - , ^'jaong, at rate of L. 3 per cow, and 5s. per ewe or sheep, Lime-works, rated at 18,000 bolls per annum, Is. 6d. per boll, Miscellaneous produce, including dairy, &c. Total yearly value of raw produce raised, V. — Parochial Economy. Villages, — Biggar, about seven miles distant, is our nearest post LANARK. G L. a370 145(j 2548 2.J0 1350 2f>'23 L. 11,897 98 LANARKSHIRE. and market-town. As already stated, there are three villages in the parish, Roberton, Wiston, and Newton of Wiston. Means of Communication. — The turnpike road from Stirling to Carlisle runs through the whole length of the parish, and has in various respects been of vast advantage to it There are no bridges of any consequence ; the fences are deficient, but such as we have are tolerably good. Ecclesiastical State. — The present church is that of the old pa- rish of Wiston. It was enlarged after the annexation of the two parishes, has since been repaired, and is at present in a very to- lerable state. It is situate within a mile and a-half of the eastern, and fully four miles and a-half from the western, extremity of the parish. But though not exactly centrical, as even the private roads in the parish are now generally good, those at a distance have no great reason to complain ; nor do they seem to feel it any incon- venience, for few attend church with greater regularity. It is seated for 355, not the legal provision ; but by means of forms and fold- ing seats, accommodation has lately been provided for about thirty more, and these newly provided sittings are free. — The manse was built in the year 1750, and during the present incumbency, up- wards of twenty years ago, a considerable addition was made to it. — There are two glebes, the glebe of the old parish of Roberton, and that of the old parish of Wiston. The former is sixteen acres in extent, and is let at present for L.25; the latter is about seven acres and a-half, including the garden and site of the manse and offices, and would let, I suppose, for about L.20. The glebes are more than two miles distant from each other, and though it is strongly recommended in the decreet of annexation ^^ to exchange the glebe and yard of Roberton for lands lying contiguous to the glebe of Wiston," the recommendation has not yet been attended to. The teinds are exhausted, and by a decreet of modification and locality, 1816, the stipend was fixed at L. 191, lis. dd. money, and one chaldron meal. There is a Relief chapel in the village of Roberton. It was built about thirty-three years ago, and is seated for 377. The minis- ter's salary, I believe, depends entirely on the produce of the cha- pel ; what that may exactly amount to I caimot tell, for, of course, I have no official communication on the subject, but I rather think it Will not exceed L. 40 per annum. It has been in a declining state for several years ; nor is its decline to be ascribed to any cir- cumstances of an accidental or extraordinary nature. There are 1 50 families attending the Established church, and 42 families attend- WISTON AND BOBERTON. 99 ing different dissenting chapels, particularly the Relief one .already mentioned. Tliere are 766 persons of all ages belonging to the Establishment, and 183 of all ages belonging to dissenterism. There are 405 in communion with the church of Scotland, and 102 in communion with dissenting bodies. Education. — There are three schools in the parish, two paro- chial and one private and unendowed. The branches generally taught are, English, writing, arithmetic, and occasionally Latin. The salary of the schoolmaster of Wiston is L.25, Ids. dd., that of the schoolmaster of Roberton, L. 30. The fees in the school of Wiston are, English, 2s., English and writing, 28. 6d., English, writing, and arithmetic, 3s., English, writing, arithmetic, and Latin, 48. per quarter. In the school of Roberton the fees are, English, 1 s. 6d. English and writing, 2s. 6d. English, writing, and arithmetic, 3s. 6d. per quarter. At the annual examination in March, there were attending the parochial school of Wiston, 64; the parochial school of Roberton, 56 ; and the private school in Roberton 32. Both parochial teachers have the full legal accommodation. In no- thing, perhaps, has there been such a decided improvement of late years, as in the system of parochial teaching; and in no parish with which I am acquainted are the people more alive to the bene- fits of education, nor do they evince a keener interest in the subject. This is apparent from the fact, that in the poorest hamlets in the most distant parts in the parish, you will not find a child six years of age who has not been at school, as well as from the great turn out of parents on the day of annual examination, and the eager- ness with which they listen to the proceedings. Libraries^ — There are two public libraries in the parish, one a subscription library, consisting of books of every description, the other a Sabbath school library, consisting exclusively of religious works, but not limited in its circulation to the children attending the school. Both are well supported. Friendly Society, — A friendly society was instituted a consider- able time ago, though in what year it is impossible to say, as the original books have been lost. The earliest record in the pos- session of the society bears the date of 1782. We regret to add, Aat it is not quite so flourishing as it once was ; and we can ascril)e its decUne ( temporary we hope) to no circumstance, so much as to the almost general extinction of that spirit of honest independ- ence by which the inhabitants of Scotland were at one time so remarkably and honourably distinguished; nor can we think of any thing more likely to revive the prosperity of the society, than 100 LANARKSHIRE, for the heritors and other influential individuals connected with the parish to give it their countenance and support, by enrolling them- selves as members, and taking an interest in its proceedings. For their own sakes, as well as for the sake of the community at large, they ought to do so, as it is now, in this parish at least, the only remaining bar against the inroads of pauperism. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is from 15 to 20, exclusive of occasional paupers ; the sum allotted to each individual is of course regulated by circumstances. The least that is given (and truly it is as little as can be given) is 4s. per month, and the most 15s. In 1832, the total amount of money received in behalf of the poor was L. 119, lis. 1^. The church collections amounted to L- 12, 13s. 4^d. and, with the exception of the interest of L. 100, and a few other inconsiderable items, the remainder of the sum arose from the regular assessment, at the rate of lOd. Sterling, on each pound Scotch, one half paid by the proprietor, the other by the occupier. Inns. — There are no fewer than four inns or public houses in the parish, while one would be quite sufficient. Their effect, as might be expected, is decidedly bad. Fueh — The fuel is coal from the neighbouring parishes of Douglas and Carmichael. The price is 8d. a-load at the pit, and lOd. a-load for driving. The distance is about six miles. Miscellaneous Observations. In the Statistical Account of 1792, it is stated, " there is, strict- ly speaking, no poors' roll. It is sometimes necessary to press aid on the necessitous, such is their modesty." From the foregoing account, it will be seen that matters are in this respect lament- ably altered. Various causes have no doubt contributed to this effect. The dissenting chapel at Roberton, by thinning for some time the attendance at the Established church, necessarily diminish- ed the amount of church collections, whilst the enlarged scale on which the lime-works came to be wrought, by introducing into the parish a poor and thoughtless population, added to the number of the necessitous, without providing any supply for their relief. These two circumstances combined gave rise to the necessity of a legal assessment, and that in its turn, and as its necessary consequence, has extinguished the spirit of independence, increased the number of the poor, and dried up almost every source of voluntary contri- bution for their support. May 1834. CITY OF GLASGOW, ASD SUBURBAN PARISHES OF BARONY AND GORBALS.* PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, AND SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. DUNCAN MACFARLAN, D.D.,i!fmw/«- of the Inner High or Cathedral Church. THE REV. JOHN FORBES, Outer High Church. THE REV. JOHN LOCKHART, D.D, College Church. THE REV. ROBERT BUCHANAN, Tron Church. THE REV. JOHN G. LORLMER, St Davids Church. THE REV. JOHN SMYTH, D. D., St Georges Church. THE REV. NATHANIEL PATERSON, St Andrew's Church. THE REV. JAMES HENDERSON, .S'^ Enoch's Church. THE REV. THOMAS BROWN, D.D., St John's Church. THE REV. JOHN MUIR, D. D., St James' Church. THE REV. JOHN BURNS, D. D., ) „ ^ , THE REV. W. BLACK, D. D., A. & S., / ^^''^^ Church. THE REV. ALEXANDER TURNER, Gorbals Church. In a work of this nature a minute history of the city and suburbs is not to be expected. All that seems necessary is a concise view of their former and present st^te, referring those who wish to have a fuller account of their rise and progress to the histories publish- ed by M^Ure, Gibson, Denholm, and Cleland. L — Topography and Natural History. Latitude and Longitude. — According to the determination of Dr Wilson, formerly Professor of Astronomy in the University of Glasgow, the latitude of the Macfarlane Observatory in the Col- lege Garden of Glasgow is 55° 51' 32" north, and longitude 4° 17' bAT west Glasgow is therefore nearly eight miles farther south than Edinburgh, and I'' 1' farther west. Name and Boundaries. — There is no authentic record of the origin of Glasgow. Its name in the Gaelic language is interpret- ed by some as signifying a Grey Smith, whilst others think it means a Dark Glen, in allusion to the ravine near the cathedral, where a primary settlement appears to have been made. While the Romans maintained possession of North Britain, it is related • This article has been drawn up by the Very Reverend Dukcam Macpaklan, D.D. Principal of the Glasgow College, one of his Majesty's Chaplains for Scotland; and by James Cleland, LL.D. Fellow of the SutUtical Society of London, Member of the Society ef CivU-Engineers, London, Corresponding Member of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Member of the PhUosophical Society of Glasgow. LANARK. " 102 LANARKSHIRE. that they had a station on the spot, on which Glasgow is now built, and being within the wall of Antoninus, which crossed the island from the Forth to the Clyde, a few miles to the north of Glasgow, it was included in the province of Valentia, and was retained by that warlike people till their final expulsion from Britain. The congregating of houses in this part of the country, begun by the Romans, was afterwards hastened by St Mungo, who had establish- ed a cell, and ultimately a religious fraternity at Glasgow. For many ages afterwards, this city continued to be little else than a religious establishment. At the Reformation in 1560, Glasgow also compre- hended what is now known by the name of the Barony Parish, but in the year 1595, it was found that the locality was too great for one pa- rish ; the Presbytery therefore disjoined it from the original parish, and it now forms a suburb of the city. The extreme length of the original and still existing boundary, from the Kelvin at Gars- cube House, to the Bishop's Loch, is 8 miles and about 7 fur- longs, and the greatest breadth from the river Clyde at Dalbeth, to the boundary at Coshnochmoor, 4 miles and about 2 furlongs. Glasgow, i, e. the ten parishes of the royalty, lies on the south side, and is included in the above boundary. It extends from the Clyde at Hutcheson's Bridge to the estate of Possil, northwards, 2 miles and about 5-8ths of a mile ; and from Camlachie burn, to M* Al- pine's Street, at the steam-boat quay, westwards, 2 miles and about 1^ furlongs. The Gorbals or suburbs lying on the south side of the Clyde was originally a part of the parish of Govan. The lands of Gor- bals were for a long period under the superiority of the Archbi- shop of Glasgow; but in 1571 they were granted to George El- phinstone, a merchant of Glasgow, from whom they descended to his son Sir George Elphinstone of Blythswood, who obtained from the Archbishop the privileges of a burgh of barony. In 1647, the corporations of the city. Trades House, and Hutcheson's Hos- pital purchased these lands, which have since been the source of great wealth to these respective bodies. In 1732, a Chapel of Ease to the parish of Govan was erected in Gorbals, and in 1771, Gorbals was erected into a separate parish. The word Gorbals is of very difficult etymology ; the most obvious interpretation (though not very applicable) is by the British word Gorbal, signi- fying very Jar or distant Topographical Appearances, — The south part of the city is built on a tract of flat land adjoining the Clyde, averaging about half a mile in breadth. On the north parts, the surface rises into uplandi GLASGOW. 103 where the ancient town was situated. In the landward parts of the suburban parishes the soil is highly cultivated, and produces plen- tiful crops. Climate.^ — Climate commonly denotes the nature of the weather usually prevalent in any particular district or country. Northern climates are more favourable to health and longevity than tropi- cal regions. The alternate change of seasons produces a variety, which cheers the mind and acts upon the animal frame. Healthi- ness in the mass of the people constitute an essential part of na- tional prosperity, because without it labour cannot be performed. Salubrious air and fertile soil contribute to produce an industrious peasantry. As Glasgow has taken the lead in the formation of tables for exhi- biting the probability of human life in large towns, we have felt it right to give a particular account of the climate. In the second edition of Cleland's folio Statistical work, pp. 102 to 109, the year- ly quantity of rain is given for thirty years, as ascertained in the Macfarlane Observatory, by Dr James Couper, Professor of Astro- nomy in this University, showing an yearly average of 22.328 inches. The least quantity in any one year during that period was 14.468 in 1803, and the greatest 2a554 in 1828. The quan- tity of rain which falls at Glasgow is less than at Edinburgh : this may be accounted for by the circumstance, that the former place is nearly twenty miles inland from the west coast, and is therefore beyond the immediate influence of the Atlantic, which renders some parts of the north-west of England so rainy, while its distance from the east coast, and the high land between it and Edinburgh, screen it from those violent rains, when the east wind blows, which are so common in Edinburgh. The distance of the hills from Glasgow is greater than from Edinburgh, and it is in some degree screened by high ground, both on the east and west The state of the thermometer and atmospheric appearances is also given in the work alluded to, every morning throughout the year • « The two seas by which Scotland is bounded, in consequence of their difference of temperature, ha^e a remarkable effect on its climate. The German Ocean, which stretches along the east coast, being of small extent and of no considerable depth, is easily affected by the changes of the seasons on the adjacent continent, in so much that it is three degrees colder in winter and five degrees warmer in summer than the Atlantic, which, without any material interruption, occupies the western coast of the kingdom." "In summer, therefore, in consequence of the high comparative temperature of the German Ocean, a copious evaporation takes place throughout its whole extent, which produces those easterly haan, as they are called, or thick mists, which are seen at a cer- tain period of the day to arise from the sea ; and which are not only dangerous to na- ▼igadon, but advancing upon the land render the eastern coast often highly disagree- able.**— ^Ir John SlnehirU StatUtical jlnaJtjii* of Scotland, p. 95. 104 LANARKSHIRE. at nine o'clock ; but here we have been enabled, from knowing the state of the thermometer every hour, day, and night during the year 1834, to give the average monthly for the year. This has been obtained through the politeness of Mr Mackain, the scienti- fic manager of the Glasgow Cranstonhill Water- Works Company. Mr Mackain suspended one of Crichton's Fahrenheit thermometers in an open well about twenty feet diameter, cradled with stone, in a position apart from the rays of the sun, and gave in charge to the day and night engineer, who are in constant attendance, to mark the hourly state of the thermometer in a book; and from that book Mr Mackain constructed a table, exhibiting the temperature hourly, daily, weekly, monthly, and yearly. The following is an abstract from that laborious and most important document. 1834, Jan. 24, greatest heat, 44.37 Jan. 29. least heat, ^3.12 average, 40.56 Feb. 18, 46.i>8 Feb. 13, 32.25 40.08 March 12, 49.95 March 20, 35.45 4232 April 24, 52.16 April 11, 8a25 45.37 May 27, 59.95 May 1, 45.41 54.70 June 2, 6345 June 13, 52 33 57.91 July 4. 67.33 July 19. 56.87 6204 August 3, 67.83 August28, 49.75 59.87 Sept. 18, 61.45 Sept. 13, 48.79 5ai7 Oct. 4, 56.33 Oct 24, 36.95 48.19 Nov. 5, 5229 Nov. 24, 80.70 41.59 Dec. 6, 52.16 Dec. 19, 26.37 39.63 The greatest height of the thermometer in June was 72°, and the lowest 46°. In July 78^ and 54°. In August 78° and 49°. These extremes are applicable only to a few hours in the respec- tive months. Average temperature at the Cranstonhill Water- Works during two years, viz. from 1st January 1833 to 1st January 1835, 48.43. The mean heat of Glasgow was formerly determined by Professor Thomas Thomson to be 47°. 75^, while that of Edinburgh, as deter- mined by Professor Play fair, was 47° 7'; but it is presumed that these eminent philosophers had not the advantage' of hourly inspection. In 1834 and 1835 the winters were so mild that ice was im- ported from Iceland to Glasgow. This may account for the dif- ference of temperature, as ascertained by Professor Thomson. Hydrography. — The city is bounded on the south by the Clyde, and that river bounds the Gorbals on the north. The Barony pa- rish is bounded on the west parts by the river Kelvin. The Forth and Clyde, and the Monkland Canals, run through a considerable part of it, and it contains the Hogganfield and Frankfield lochs, which act as feeders to the town mills. Mineralogy. — The suburbs contain large quantities of coal, iron- stone, limestone, freestone, whinstone, fire and potters clay, and GLASGOW. 105 Other Taluable minerals. Kilpatrick and Campsie hills abound with a great variety of curious and valuable minerals, but as these belong to neighbouring parishes, they are not noticed here. II. — Civil and Ecclesiastical History. The following facts, collected from the records of the town- council, the Presbytery, and kirk-session of Glasgow, the Bishops' Cartulary, and other authentic documents, by Dr Cleland, convey a pretty accurate account of the state of society in Glasgow at the periods referred to. See ofGlcLsgow. — Although Glasgow was an early seat of the Church, historians do not agree as to the time when the See was founded. That it is next to St Andrews in point of antiquity is beyond all doubt. With regard to its founder, Kennet, in his Parochial Antiquities^ says, it was instituted by Kentigern or St Mungo, in the year 560.* Dr Keelyn, speaking of the see of St Asaph in Wales, observes, " that the see was founded by St Ken- ti^rn, a Scot, in 583," and that " St Kentigern was then Bishop of Glasgow." From these authorities, it may be inferred that St Mungo founded the See of Glasgow, and became the first bishop, and that when a cathedral of sufficient grandeur was finished, it would be dedicated to St Mungo. Baldrade, St Mungo's disciple, who founded a religious house at Inchinnan, is said to have suc- ceeded him in the bishoprick. There is no record of the See for more than 500 years after this period. This great blank cannot be accounted for with any degree of certainty^ Among other con- jectures, it is said that the church was destroyed by the ravages of the Danes, who murdered or drove off the religious who had settled in Glasgow. In the year 1115, David,^ Prince of Cumberland refounded the See, and having, in 1 124, succeeded his brother Alexander I. to the throne of Scotland, he promoted his chaplain, John Achaius, to the bishoprick in 1129. In 1133, the cathedral was solemnly consecrated in presence of the King, who endowed it with the lands of Partick. In 1 165, Pope Alexander III. issued a bull command- ing the faithful to visit the cathedral of Glasgow. In 1 176, Bishop Joceline enlarged the cathedral, and rebuilt a part of it in a style * ** Tbe city and castle of Glasgow have long been the seat of the bishops and ardibishops of Glasgow. St Mungo, to whom the cathedral was dedicated, is esteem, cd tbe first bishop of Glasgow. He was of great birth, great piety, and great learn- ing. Much that is written of him depends upon the credit of the authors. He lived in tbe sixth century. There is a bull of erection and confirmation of the bishoprick aooD after the Pope's authority was owned in this kingdom.** — DetcnptUm of the She- ffdom ofLamark^ fty WUUam HamUtan of WUhaw^ compiled about the beginning of the but century, and rectntlg jprinted by the Maithnd Club, pp. 4, 6. 106 LANARKSHIRE. more magnificent than it had ever been. In the same year, Wil- liam the Lion, King of Scots, granted a charter to the town for holding a market on Thursday. In four years thereafter, Glasgow was erected into a royal burgh, and, " in 1190, the town received a royal charter for holding a fair every year, for ever, from the 8th of the Apostle Peter, (29th June,) and for the space of eight days complete." The fair commences on the second Monday of July, and continues the whole week. In 1210 the Grayfriars Monas- tery was at the foot of the Deanside Brae. Little more is known of it, than that the citizens of Glasgow, at that date, went in a body on the last day of the fair to pay their respects to the Abbot of Melrose, who Uved in the monastery, and had been instrumental in procuring the fair. In 1270, the religious fraternity of Blackfriars was patronized by Sir Matthew Stewart of Castlemilk, who granted an an- nuity from his estate, " on condition of their saying mass for ever for the souls of him, the said Matthew, and for his mither and bairns of our place, progenitors, and successors, and all Christian souls perpetually." This ancient family has always been respect- able. In 1398, Sir Walter Stewart of Castlemilk, brother to Sir John Stewart of Darnley, was named one of the sureties on the part of Scotland, in a treaty of peace between England and Scot- land. In 1300, Edward L of England took upon him to appoint An- thony Beik to the see of Glasgow. Earl Percy, at the same time, usurped the military government of the western part of Scotland, and took possession of the Episcopal palace in Glasgow.* Sir * The ancient castle of Carstairs was originally a Roman station or fortification, and was given by King David, or St David, as he was called, in 1 126, to the Bishop of Glasgow for his country palace. The following curious information is from the Rotuli Scotia?, in the Tower, published by the Record Commission. " When Edward I. was at Berwick in 1292, deciding on the claims of Bruce and Baliol, he was in possession of all the fortresses in Scotland. At that period the King granted a license to Robert Wiseheart, Bishop of Glasgow, to finish the Castle of Carstairs, which had been begun without leave. The following is a copy of the license : — * The King and Sovereign Lord of the kingdom of Scotland, to all his bailifiTs and faithful men to whom these shall come, greeting; Whereas a venerable ikther, Robert, Bishop of Glasgow, at his manor of Carstairs, in the county of Lanark, a certain castle o£ stone and mortar, after the death of Alexander of blessed memory, late King of Scotland, without any license, began to build. Wc, to the same bishop a special grace, being willing to have granted in this part to him, for ourselves, and for our heirs, that he the said castle so begun, may finish and fortify with kernals, and the same so finished and turreted, or kemallated, may hold to him and to his successors for ever. Nor wish we that the said bishop or his successors, by occasion of the said castle being begun without our licence or will, as aforesaid, is by us or our heirs, or our bailiffs or servants whatsomever, be quarclled, or in any way aggrieved. Witness the King at Berwick-on- Tweed the 15th of July." It is remarkable that in 1292 the castle and manor of Carstairs was possessed bj one of our most public-spirited and benevolent bishops, and that, after a lapse of more 4 GLASGOW. 107 William Wallace, who was then at Ayr, determined on ridding his country of the English usurpers, and, accompanied by Wallace of RicfaardtowD, the Laird of Auchinleck, his friend James Cleland, and others, gave battle to the usurper in the High Street, nearly where the college now stands, when Sir William cleft the head of Earl Percy with one stroke of his sword, on which the route of the English became general. On 28th August in the following year. King Edward offered oblations at the shrine of St Mungo, in the cathedral church of Glasgow, for the good news of Sir Malcolm de Drummond, a Scottish knight, being taken prisoner by Sir John Seagreave. It appears from the Bishop's Cartulary that the plague raged furiously here in the years 1330, 1350, 1380, 1381, 1600, 1602, 1604, and in 1649. In 1387, the great wooden spire of the Cathedral of Glasgow, which was covered with lead, was destroyed by lightning. In 1392, a mint^house was erected in the Drygate, where coins were struck with the motto, ^^ Robertus Dei Gratia Rex Scotorum, vil- la de Glasgow, Dominus Protector." In 1420, there was a convent for Grayfriars somewhere about the west end of the Grayfriars' Wynd. The friars were patroniz- ed by the celebrated but unfortunate Isobel Duchess of Albany, cousin to James, afterwards L of Scotland, who, on 18th May 1431, at Inchmurran, mortified the lands of Ballagan to the con- vent of the Grayfriars at Glasgow, for the express purpose of <^ the salvation of our souls, and that of Murdoch, Duke of Albany, of worthy memory, our dear husband ; and also of Duncan Earl of LennoaL, our father, and of Walter, James, and Alexander, our sons.'' It is worthy of remark, that this pious lady received from the King, her cousin, as a present, the heads of her husband, her father, and her sons, Walter and Alexander; James having fled into Ireland. In 1426, Bishop Cameron, soon after his induction, established the Commissariat Court, andincreased the number of the prebenda« ries of the cathedral to thirty-two. In 1441, St Enoch's Church was built within St Enoch's gate, and dedicated to the blessed Vir- gin and St Michael. It had a principal, eight prebendaries, and a large burying-ground. There is no vestige of the burying- ground, and there seems to be no record when the church was than 500 Years, the magnificent mansion and extensive manor of Carstairs is poaseas- •d by a cttixen of Glasgow, Mr Henry Montetth, alike distinguished for public spi- rit and aetxre benerolence, whether engaged in mercantile enterprise, in Uie senatey or in honourable retirement. 108 LANARKSHIRE. taken down. In 1450, Bishop Turnbull obtained a charter from James II., erecting the town and patrimonies of the bishoprick into a regality. In 1456, St Nicholas' Hospital was founded and endowed by Bishop Muirhead, for the maintenance of twelve poor laymen and a priest. The Hospital was situated on the west side of Kirk Street, near where the Bishop's palace stood. Its ruins were taken down in 1808; the ground on which it stood now forms part of the Gas Work premises. Its revenues, now reduced to about L. 30 per annum, arise from ground annuals in the neighbourhood of the hospital, Lindsay's Middle, or New Wynd, &c. The Town- Council lately conferred the patronage on Provost Dalgleish. In 1484, the Collegiate Church of St Mary (Tron) was built, and dedicated to the blessed Virgin. In 1488, the see of Glasgow was made archiepiscopal, during Bishop Blackadder's incumbency. The Bishop, along with the Earl of Bothwell, negotiated a mar- riage between King James IV. of Scotland and the Lady Marga- ret, eldest daughter of Henry VII. of England, which they brought about to the mutual satisfaction of both kingdoms. This union laid the foundation of the title of the Scotch Kings to the English throne ; which, in right of proximity of blood. King James VI. of Scotland succeeded to, on the demise of Queen Elizabeth. In 1496, the Chapel of St Roque, belonging to the Blackfriars with- out the Stable Green Port, had an extensive burying-ground, * where great numbers of those who died of the plague in after years were buried. In 1527, Jeremiah Russell and John Kennedy were burned alive in Glasgow for adhering to the principles of the Reformation. Gavin Dunbar, Archbishop of Glasgow, and the Bishops of Dunkeld, Brechin, and Dunblane, &c. were present at the trial, and agreed to the sentence, which was read in the me- tropolitan church on the last day of February. The revenues which had been granted from time to time in sup- port of the splendour of the see of Glasgow were very great. The archbishops were lords of the lordships of the royalty and baro- nies of Glasgow ; besides, there were eighteen baronies of land ^hich belonged to them within the sheriflFdoms of Lanark, Dum- barton, Ayr, Renfrew, Peebles, Selkirk, Roxburgh, Dumfries, and the stewartry of Annandale, including 240 parishes. There was also a large estate in Cumberland within their jurisdiction, which was named of old the Spiritual Dukedom. When the see was made archiepiscopal, jurisdiction was given over the Bishops of Gallo- way, Argyle, and the Isles. At the Reformation in 1560, Arch- GLASGOW. 109 bbbop Beaton retired to France, taking with him all the relics, documents, and plate which pertained to the see and the arch- bishoprick. Since the renovation of the see, there have been twen- ty-six Roman Catholic bishops ; the first, John Achaius, elected in 1129, and the last, George Carmichael, in 14m3, and four Roman Catholic archbishops, the first, Robert Blackadder, in 1488, and the last, James Beaton, in 1551. From the Reforma- tion till the Revolution, the church in Glasgow was governed by fourteen Protestant archbishops, the first, James Boyd, elected in 1572, and the last, John Paterson, in 1687. State of Society, 8fc, — Prior to the Reformation, the inhabitants of this city and neighbourhood were governed by churchmen, who kept them in a state of ignorance and superstition truly deplorable. At that period, the principles of the glorious Reformation began to be acknowledged, when it pleased God to raise up powerful agents in Edinburgh and Glasgow in the persons of Knox and Melville. In 1560, when the Reformation took place, and for a considerable time after, the great body of the people retained their fierce and sanguinary disposition. This is strikingly marked by their being constantly armed : even the ministers in the pulpit were accoutred. The number of murders, cases of incest, and other criminal acts, turned over to the censure of the church, but too plainly point out the depraved character of the people. In 1546, Glasgow, although only the eleventh town in Scot- land, in point of trade and importance, had some shipping ; the privy-council of Scotland having issued an order, that vessels be^ longing to Glasgow should not annoy those belonging to Henry VIIL of England, the Queen's uncle. In 1556, during the minority of Mary Queen of Scots, James Hamilton, Earl of Arran, an ancestor of the noble house of Ha- milton, the second person in the kingdom, and nearest heir to the throne after Mary, was appointed Regent This appointment hav- ing been opposed by the Earl of Lennox, and the Queen Dowager, an engagement took place at the Butts, where the weaponschaws used to be held, (now the site of the Infantry Barracks.) The ci- tizens taking part with Lennox, the Regent was defeated, which so exasperated him, that, rallying his troops, he entered the town, and gave it up to pillage ; which was so effectually done, that the very doors and windows of the houses were destroyed. In 1566, Henry Damley, husband of Mary Queen of Scots, came to thb city on a visit to his father, who resided in a house on the east side of Limmerfield, a little south from the new Baro- 110 LANARKSHIRE. ny Church, a part of the south wall of which is still preserved. As the King was taken ill, the Queen came from Stirling to see him in this house, where she resided till he was so far recovered as to be removed to Edinburgh, in the neighbourhood of which he was soon after murdered. On 30th September 1578, Robert Stew- art Earl of Lennox, the immediate successor of Matthew, the fa- ther of Henry Damley, was entered a burgess, and in the same year elected Provost of Glasgow. In 1581, the King appointed Mr Robert Montgomery, minis- ter of Stirling, to be Archbishop of Glasgow, with the understand- ing that he was to confer the title of hereditary lords of the Bi- shop's Castle on the Lennox family, with all the emoluments per- taining thereto, for the paltry consideration of L. 1000 Scots, some horse com, and poultry. The people, considering the archbishop erroneous in doctrine and loose in morals, opposed his entry, by getting Mr Howie to preach at the time he was to be inducted. Sir Matthew Stewart of Minto, Provost of Glasgow, being desir- ous of obeying the King's commands, went to the church and de- sired Mr Howie to break off his sermon, which refusing, the pro- vost pulled him out of the pulpit In the struggle some hair was drawn out of Mr Howie's beard, several of his teeth knocked out, and his blood shed. On this Mr Howie denounced the judgment of God on Sir Matthew, and his family. M^Ure, in his History of Glasgow, says, that in less than seventy years, this opulent family was so reduced that they subsisted by charity. The church con- sidering the transaction with the Lennox family illegal and dis- graceful, the archbishop was forced to resign the benefice. He afterwards became minister of Symington, and latterly of Stewar- ton in Ayrshire, where he died. At this period the church disci- pline was severe. On 16th August 1587, the kirk-session ap> pointed harlots to be carted through the town, ducked in Clyde, and put in the jugs at the cross, on a market day. The punish- ment for adultery was to appear six Sabbaths on the cockstool at the pillar, bare-footed and bare-legged, in sackcloth, then to be carted through the town, and ducked in Clyde from a pulley fixed on the bridge." The release from excommunication was as fol- lows : ^^ A man excommunicated for relapse in adultery^ was to pass from his dwelling-house to the Hie Kirk, six Sundays, at six in the morning at the first bell, conveyed by two of the elders or deacons, or any other two honest men, and to stand at the kirk door bare- footed, and bare-legged, in sackcloth, with a white wand in his hand, bare-headed till after the reading of the text ; in the same GLASGOW. Ill manDer to repair to the pillar till the sermon was ended, and then to go out to the door again, and stand there till the congregation pass from the kirk, and after that he is released." The presbytery admonished their ministers to be diligent in their studies, grave in their apparel, and not vain with long ruffles, and gaudy toys in their clothes. The brethren (Presbytery) inter- pret ^* the Sabbath to be from sun to sun ; no work to be done be- tween light and light, in winter, and between sun and sun in sum- mer." Subsequently, the brethren declared " the Sabbath to be from twelve on Saturday night till twelve on Sabbath night." The session directed that the drum should go through the town, to intimate that there must be no bickerings or plays on Sundays, either by old or young. Games, golfs, bowls, &c. were forbidden on Sundays ; and further, that no person go to Ruglen to see plays on Sundays. Parents who had bairns to be baptized were to repeat the Com- mandments distinctly, articles of faith, and the Lord's Prayer, or be declared ignorant, and some godly person to present their bairn ; with farther punishment, as the kirk shall think fit. That no pro- clamation of banns be made without the consent of parents ; per- sons who cannot say the commandments were declared to be un- worthy of marriage. Because of the many inconveniences by mar- riages on Sundays before noon, ** the session enact that none be made till the afternoon." In 1588, the kirk-session appointed some ash-trees in the Hie Kirk yard to be cut down, to make forms for the folk to sit on in the kirk; women were not to sit upon the forms, but to bring stools with them. Intimation wa6 made, that " no woman, married or un» married, should come within the kirk door to preachmgs or prayers with their plaids about their heads, neither to lie down in the kirk on their face in time of prayer ; with certification, that their plaids be drawn down, or they be raised by the beadle. The beadles were to have staffs for keeping quietness in the kirk, and comely order; for each marriage they were to get 4d., and 2d. for each baptism. All this for ringmg the bell and rowing up the knocks and for setting the forms in the Hie Kirk, and in the Blackfriars Kirk, and also the New Kirk. The kirk beadles were to allow none to enter the steeple to trouble the knock and bell there, but to keep the AnocA going at all times, and the five hours bell in the mom^ ing, and eight hours bell at even, and that for a long space. The minister gave the dead bellman a merk to buy a book, to enter the names of the dead with their age." *« On 26th December 1588, the magistrates, considering the 112 LANARKSHIRE. manifold blasphemies and evil words spoken by sundry women, direct the master of works to erect jugs, three or four steps up, that they may not be torn down. The town-council enacted that no market be kept on Sundays, and that persons blaspheming and swearing shall be punished according to law. Walter Prior of Blantyre, tacksman of the teinds of the parsonage of Glasgow, provided the elements for the communion, he was spoken to, to pro- vide a hogshead of good wine. The time of convening on the Sun- days of the communion was four o'clock in the morning. The collectors assembled on these occasions in the Hie Kirk, at three o'clock in the morning. At that period the town-council enacted that wine shall not be sold dearer than 18 pennies Scots, for a Scotch pint, and ale not to exceed 4 pennies Scotch, =z one-third of a penny Sterling for two imperial quarts." ' " On 7th October 1589, there were six lepers in the Lepers* House at the Gorbals end of the bridge, viz. Andrew Lawson, merchant ; Steven Gilmour, cordiner ; Robert Bogle, son of Pa- trick Bogle ; Patrick Brittal, tailor ; John Thomson, tailor ; and Daniel Cunningham, tinker." For a considerable time previous to 1604, very serious differen- ces had arisen between the merchants and trades' ranks, regarding precedency ; to put an end to which, and to restore peace in the burgh, a submission was entered into on 10th November 1604, which led to the letter of guildry. On 16th February 1605, at a meeting in the Council- House, Sir George Elphinston of Blyths- wood, provost, informed the meeting that the provost, bailies, and council being ripely advised, understanding the same first to redound to the honour of God, common weal of this burgh, have accepted, received, and admitted the said letter of guildry, and in token thereof have subscribed the same. On 3d March 1608, the kirk-session gave intimation, that the Laird of Minto, a late provost, was accusedx)f a breach of chastity. The session considering his age and the station he held in the town pass him with vl reprimand. At this period the funds of the corporation must have been very low. At a meeting of the town-council, on 9th April 1609, the pro- vost informed the council, that the magistrates had been charged the sum of 100 punds, by the clerk register, for the book called the " Regium Majestatem," that they were in danger of horning for the same, and that, as the town was not stented, and as the council could not advance the money, (L. 8, 6s. 8d. Sterling,) he had bor- rowed it from William Biirn, merchant bui^ss. GLASGOW. 113 It would appear that the letter of guildry had only removed the biirghal discontent, as on 19th May 1609, the provost inform- ed the council, that the Earl of Glencairn, and the Lord Sempil, with their friends, were to be in this town on Monday next, conform to the ordinance of the secret council, for the purpose of compro- mbing their deadly feuds ; " therefore for eschewing of all incon- veniences of trouble which may happen, (which God forbid,) the council directed that the number of forty persons, with one of the bailies, and the whole council, should attend upon the provost, and that one of the other two bailies, and threescore men, should attend at the lodgings of the said noblemen, all the foresaid per- sons to have long weapons, and swords, and to be in readiness to accompany and convoy the said noblemen, with their friends, in and out, in making their reconciliation, conform to the ordinance of the secret council, and the drum to pass through the town, to advertise and warn all the inhabitants, to be in readiness with their arms foresaid, and to meet the provost and the bailies on Monday next, at seven hours on the green, that the foresaid num- ber of persons may be chosen, and that under the penalty of L. 5." On 19th August following, the council granted a warrant to John Bemit, master of works, for 41 punds, 10s. as the expenses of wine and confections spent at the cross, upon the 5th day of July, the King's day, my Lord Bishop of Glasgow being present, with sun- dry other honourable men. On 6th October 1610, the town-council enacted, that there should be no middings (dunghills) on the fore streets, nor in the flesh-market, meal-market, or other market of this burgh, under the penalty of Ids. 4d. and that no timber lie on the High Street, above year and day, nor any turf, turf stakes, or lint, be dried upon the High Street, under the penalty of Ids. 4d, and that the fruit, kail, and onion crammies, stand betwixt the gutter and the house, and that each stand and flake be an ell in length and breadth. The council at the same time ordained, that the lepers of the hospital should go only upon the causewayside, near the gutter, and should have *^ clapperis," and a cloth upon their mouth and face, and should stand afar off while they receive alms, under the penalty of being banished from the town and hospital. On 22d December 1613, mortahty bills were directed to be made in the city for the first time. In 1635, the magistrates purchased from the Earl of Glencairn, the manse of the prebendary of Cambuslang in the Drygate, which they fitted up as a house of correction for dissolute women, and 114 LANARKSHIRE. such was the vigilance of the kirk-session, that they directed the women to be whipped every "day during pleasure. The Laigh Kirk steeple was built in 1638. The Tron or pub- lic weights were kept in the under part of this steeple for a num- ber of years; hence the name Tron. The dues of the tron, which formerly belonged to the Archbishop, were conveyed to the Col- lege, which still draws a small sum from the town in lieu of them. The council agreed to license Duncan Birnet to teach music within the burgh, provided he takes no more " skoUeges fra the bairns than James Sanderis was allowed. " They authorized the master of work now in Flanders, to purchase for the town's use fifty muskets with " stalfis and bandeleiris," and fifty pikes. On 8th September they ordered " three score young men to be elected and trained to handle arms, the driller to have for his pains 40 shillings each day for his coming out of Edinburgh, aye until he be discharged, with his horse hire hame and afield." On 25th September 1 638, the principal and regents of the Col- lege petitioned the town-council for help to build the new work within the said College. The council " condescended and agreed to give to the building of the said work 1000 merks when the work is going on, and another 1000 merks to buy books to the library, whenever they buy their books to make a library to the said Col- lege. The money to be advanced by the provost and bailies, who may be in office at the time." " On 8th October 1638, the provost, bailies, and council, un- derstanding that his sacred Majesty has been graciously pleased to indict a general free assembly to be holden in this city the 21st November next, to which it is expected that a great number of noblemen, commissioners from presbyteries, and other commis- sioners will repair hither, therefore it is statuted and ordained, that no burgess or inhabitant within this burgh shall set, or pro- mise to set, for rent or otherwise, or give to any friend any house, chamber, or stable, until they first acquaint them therewith, that the provost, bailies, and council may give a license thereto, to the end that every one may be lodged according to their quality and ability in this city, under the pain of 100 punds, and imprison- ment of their persons during the magistrates' will. And likewise, that those give obedience to this who are appointed to survey the houses within the city, and also that no inhabitant expect more rent for their houses, chambers, beds, and stables than shall be appointed by the said provost, bailies, and council, and ordains the GLASGOW. 115 same to be intimated through the town by sound of drum, that no person may plead ignorance.*' On 3d November, the town-council, understanding that a great number of people will convene within this burgh at the ensuing assembly, they statuted and ordained, that there be a guard of men kept through the day, and a watch at night, under the direc- tion of the provost and bailies. On the 18th, the treasurer was directed to purchase for the town's use 100 muskets with ** stalfis and bandeleiris," 30 pikes, 4 cwt. of powder, and 4 cwt of match. On 21st November this famous assembly met in the nave of the Cathedral. During the preceding year. Laud, Archbishop of Can- terbury, had ordered a service-book to be read in the Scotch churches, which the people thought savoured of the mass. This innovation afforded a fit opportunity for the friends of the Presby- terian form to exert themselves in the cause ; they therefore with great assiduity procured a numerous attendance at this assembly. The celebrated Marquis of Hamilton was Lord High Commis- sioner. The venerable Mr John Bell, minister of the Tron Church of Glasgow, preached, after which Mr Alexander Henderson was elected Moderator. The assembly was attended by a great propor- tion of the nobility and other persons of rank and consideration in Scotland. The Presbyterian partycarriedeverythingtheirownway. The Commissioner protested and dissolved the assembly. After his Grace had departed, the assembly held twenty-six diets, when they decreed, 1^, The abjuration of Episcopacy ; 2(Z, The abo- lishing of the service-books and the high commission ; 3^, The proceedings of the six preceding assemblies during Episcopacy were declared null and void ; 4/A, They deposed and excommuni- cated the Archbishops of St Andrews and Glasgow, and the Bi- shops of Galloway, Brechin, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Ross, Argyle, and Dunblane, and a number of other clergymen ; 5thy The Co- venant being approved of, was ordered to be signed by all ranks, under pain of excommunication ; and, 6^A, Churchmen were in- capacitated from holding, any place in Parliament On 19th March 1640, intimation was made by the session, that all masters of families should give an account of those in their fa- milies who have not the Ten Commandments, the Lord's Prayer, Creed, &c. and that every family should have prayers and psalms morning and evening; some of the fittest men to assist the elders in promoting this work. On 8th January in the following year, the kirk-session, in pursuance of an act of Assembly held at Aberdeen, enacted that the magistrates should cause all monuments of ido- UG LANARKSHIRE. latry to be taken down and destroyed, viz. all superstitious pictures, crucifixes, &c. both in private houses and in the Hie Kirk. Next day it was reported that they found only three that could be cal- led so, viz. the five wounds of Christ, the Holy Lamb, and a Pro- nobis. On the 19th June 1641, the council directed the treasurer to pay Mr Gavin Forsyth 162 punds for his bygone services in bap- tizing infants within this city, and visiting the sick in the time of the town's necessity, and for preaching God's word on Tuesdays. On 1st December, the council enacted that some Holland cloth, and Scotch linen cloth, with some plaids, as also two gallons of aqua vitce^ and four half-barrels of herring^ be sent as a present to Mr Webb, servant to the Duke of Lennox, as a testimony of the town's thankfulness to him for the pains he took in the town's bu- siness. The said day the JJIarquis of Argyle exhibited in presence of the town-council, a commission from the secret-council anent the transporting of 5000 men to Ireland, desiring the council to provide boats and barques for their transport. After much rea- soning, it was thought fit that the freight of each soldier should be 1 pund, 10s., and that the soldiers and boatmen should have 6s. in the day for victuals during the time they are at sea ; the whole to be paid by the community. On 13th April 1649, parochial sessions were first appointed ; but as these clerical courts assumed the power of censuring the measures of Government, his Majesty, Charles II. put them down by royal proclamation, and it was not till April 1662 that the legal restriction was removed. On 6th Julv 1649, the kirk session inti- mated that any person who knows any point of witchcraft or sorcery against any one in this burgh, shall delate the same to some of the ministers or magistrates. Oliver Cromwell having on 3d September 1650, got possession of Edinburgh, marched to Glasgow, and took up his lodgings and held his levees in Silver Craigs House, on the east side of the Saltmarket, nearly opposite the Bridgegate. " Cromwell having learned that Mr Patrick Gillespie, minister of the Outer High Church, had the chief sway in ecclesiastical afiairs, sent for him, and after a long conference, gave him a prayer. On the following Sunday he went in state to the Cathedral Church. Mr Zachary Boyd, the distinguished paraph rast, having been ap- pointed to preach, took occasion to inveigh against Cromwell, on which Thurlow, his secretary, said he would pistol the scoundrel. ' No, no,' said the General, ' we will manage him in his own way.' GLASGOW. 117 Having asked the minister to dine with him, Oliver concluded the entertainment with prayer, which it is said lasted three hours. On 16th June 1660, the session having taken into their con- sideration the Lord's merciful providence in returning the King's majesty to his throne and government, do judge it their duty to set apart some time for public thanksgiving to God for the same. The Restoration took place on 29th May, and such was the persecuting spirit of the times, that on 14th July following, the privy-council sent an order to the magistrates of Glasgow, to desire Principal Gillespie to appear before them, which he did on the 17th Au- gust, when, for the favour he had shown to Cromwell, he was sent to Edinburgh jail, and was afterwards imprisoned in the Bass Island, along with a number of ministers. After a period of confinement, the Principal was brought before Parliament and liberated. Soon after the Restoration, an attempt was made to force Epis- copacy on. the people of Scotland, and nowhere was this attempt more opposed than in Glasgow, where the great body of the people were Covenanters. The King having appointed Mr James Sharp, minister of Crail, to be Archbishop of St Andrews ; and Mr An- drew Fairfowl, minister of Dunse, to be Archbishop of Glasgow ; and two other ministers to be bishops, they were ordained in Lon- don, and on 10th April 1662, arrived in Edinburgh. The clergy and laity of Glasgow, with a few exceptions, having refused to con- form to Episcopacy, the Earl of Middleton, and a committee of the privy-council, came to Glasgow on 26th September 1662. The council met in the fore-hall of the college, when, after the usual preliminaries. Lord Middleton informed the committee, that the archbishop desired the royal order for uniformity to be enforced. This was agreed to by all but Lord Lee, who assured the com- mittee that the enforcement of that order would desolate the coun- try. In the face of this it was enforced, when upwards of 400 ministers were turned out, and took leave of their flocks in one day, among whom were five belonging to Glasgow, viz. Prin- dpal Gillespie, Messrs Robert Macward, John Carstairs, Ralph RogerB, and Donald Cargill. Early in 1678, the committee of council returned to Glasgow, where they remained ten days. They sat on Sunday during divine service, administering a bond for pre- venting all intercourse with the exiled ministers ; and such was the terror which accompanied their proceedings, that Provost Camp- bell, Bailies Johnston, Campbell, Colquhoun, and others, to the number of 153 persons, signed the obnoxious bond. The council, LANARK. I 118 LANARKSHIRE. the better to enforce their arbitrary measures, summoned to their aid some of the chieftains and clans, afterwards designated the Highland Host. These rapacious mountaineers, unaccustomed to discrimination, plundered the inhabitants of every thing they could lay their hands on. Under such an order of things, emigration to Holland or Geneva was the only safe alternative. On 2d Febru- ary following, the host left Glasgow for Ayrshire, and on their re- turn in small detachments, loaded with plunder, they were attack- ed by the students and other young men of the town, who recol- lecting their former practices, relieved them of their burthens, and showed them the way to the Highlands through the West Port. On 17th August 1669, the Presbytery of Glasgow directed that the day of preparation before the communion should be a day of fasting and humiliation. During the troubles in the latter end of the reign of Charles I. and the greater part of the reign of Charles n. the communion was but seldom administered in Glasgow, and not at all in the year 1646-47-51-52-59-58 and 59. From 1660 to 1676, the communion was occasionally given once in the year ; and from 1693 till the Union in 1707, it was regularly given once a- year ; and it has almost uniformly been given twice a-year since that period. In 1677, a great fire took place in Glasgow, when 130 houses and shops were destroyed. In 1684, a number of Covenanters were hanged in Glasgow, and their heads stuck on pikes on the east side of the jail. Their bodies were buried at the north side of the Cathedral Church, near where a stone with an inscription is placed, and still remains in the wall. In 1689, on the abdication of James II., the city of Glasgow raised a regiment of 500 rank and file, and sent them to Edin- burgh, under the command of the Earl of Argyle, to guard the Covenanters. This regiment then got the name of the Scotch Cameronians, and subsequently the 26th Regiment of Foot. Dur- ing this year the magistrates were elected by a poll vote of the burgesses; but in the succeeding year, an act of William and Mary empowered the magistrates and council to elect themselves. On 4th June 1690, the Presbytery of Glasgow, considering that " this is the first diet after the re-establishment of the Presbyterian form of church government," directed Mr Joseph Drew to go to Stirling, and preach to the people of Glasgow, who had been driven there on account of the troubled state of the kingdom. On 2d May 1695, an act was read from the pulpits in the city, against buying or selling things on the Sabbath, also against feeding horses GLASGOW. 119 in the fields, or hiring horses to ride on the Sabbath, except ih cases of necessity, of which the magistrates are to be made ac- quainted. Tlie ancient and laudable custom of elders visiting the fiunilies once a quarter was revived. On 12th March 1698, the magistrates of Glasgow granted an allowance to the jailor for keeping warlocks and witches imprison- ed in the tolbooth, by order of the Lords Commissioners of Jus- ticiary. The elders and deacons, two and two, were enjoined to search the change-houses in their proportions on the Saturday nights at ten o'clock, and to delate the drinkers and houses to the magistrates. In 1707, the union with England was effected. This measure was so inimical to the citizens of Glasgow, that the magistrates found it necessary to prohibit more than three persons from as- s»nbling together on the streets after sunset. In 1715, when the Rebellion broke out under the Earl of Marr, the city of Glasgow raised a regiment of 600 men at their own ex- pense, who marched to Stirling under the conunand of Colonel Aird, the late provost, and joined the King's forces. In 1717, the Convention of Royal Burghs passed an act pro- hibiting persons from trading in Glasgow, unless they resided eight months of the year within it. On 11th November 1725, the kirk-session enacted, that the elders and deacons should go through their proportions, and take notice of all young women who keep chambers alone, especially those aospected of lightness, and warn them that they will be taken notice o£^ and advise them to get htmest mm, or take themselves to service. In 1786, the foundation stone of the Town-hall, and the first Assembly Rooms, was laid by Provost Coulter. The hall and As- sembly Rooms were opened in 1740. Although Deacon Corse was the master mason, his foreman, the celebrated Mungo Nai- smith, carried on the work, and carved the caricature heads on the key stones of the arches of the arcade, so justly admired. Till the Assembly Rooms were opened in 1740, the Glasgow assemblies were held in the Merchant's Hall, Bridgegate. These assemblies were usually well attended. The Duchess of Douglas, for several years, patronized them. The Rebellion of 1745 afforded the citizens of Glasgow an op- portunity of showing their loyalty to the Government, by raising two regiments of 600 men each, at their own expense. On the news of the American war reaching Glasgow, the magistrates cal- *^120 LANARKSHIRE. led a public meeting, when resolutions were entered * into, to sup- port the Government. A corps of 1000 rank and file, afterwards the 8dd Regiment of Foot, was raised at an expense of about L. 10,000.* To give countenance to recruiting, and to show their determination to oppose the Americans, above 500 of the princi- pal inhabitants formed, as it were, a recruiting party. Mr John Wardrop, a Virginia merchant, beat a drum ; Mr James Finlay, father to Mr Kirkman Finlay of Castle Toward, played the bagpipe; while other eminent merchants and citizens performed the duty of fifers, or carried broad swords, colours, or other warlike ensigns. Mr Cunningham of Lainshaw, Mr Speirs of Elderslie, and others, hired their ships as transports ; but Mr Glassford of Dugaldston, disapproving of the warlike preparations, laid up his ships in Port- Glasgow harbour. In 1787, the cotton manufacturers proposed to reduce the price of weaving, on which a number of w^eavers stopt work, and, after parading the streets on 3d September, burned and destroyed a number of webs in the Drygate and Calton. Provost Riddell cal- led out the military, under the command of Colonel Kellet, when the riot act was read ; the mob refusing to disperse, three men were killed near the Hangman's Brae, (north end of Barrack Street,) and several wounded. The revolutionary principles of France had made such rapid progress in this country during 1793-4, that an Act of Parliament was passed, authorizing his Majesty to accept the military services of such of his loyal subjects, as chose to enrol themselves as volun« teers, for defence of our inestimable constitution. The necessary arrangements had no sooner been made, than a number of the ci- tizens of Glasgow oflFered their services to Government, which were immediately accepted. During the war there were thirteen vo- lunteer corps raised, and when these were disbanded, there were five regiments of local militia formed. In 1799 and 1800, the failure of the crops was so great, that provisions could not be got through the usual channels. The cor- poration, and a number of benevolent individuals, entered into a subscription, and purchased grain for the supply of the working- classes. The purchases amounted to L. 117,500. Op the re- turn of plenty the concern was wound up, which showed a loss of • The Trades- House, the fourteen incorporated trades, and individual nieinber% subscribed L. 5025 towards the expenses of the regiment. The corporation of tlw city voted an address to his Majesty, containing the tender of a regiment ; and the Ix>ndon Gazette, January 19, 1778, states, that the Hon. Robert Donald, Lord Rt>- roit, and Duncan Niven, Esq. Convener of the Trades- House, who presented the ad* dress, were most graciously received, and bad the honour to kiss his Majesty's hand. GLASGOW. 121 L. 15,000. As a large proportion of this came from the corpora- don funds, a bill was brought into Parh'ament, for taxing the in- habitants for a part of the loss ; but it was so vehemently opposed, that the magistrates withdrew it. In the latter end of 1816, and beginning of 1817, the stagna- tion of trade was such, that the working-classes in the city and tuburbs could not 6nd employment. The distress of the workers was so great, that it was found necessary to raise money for their relief by voluntary subscriptions. From a large sum raised, the committee distributed L. 9653, 6s. 2d. among 23,130 {)erson.s. In 1818, the lower classes of this city and suburbs were severely aS9icted with typhus fever. No sooner had the disease made pro- gress than L. 6626, 14s. Id. was raised for the relief of the afflict- ed sufiTerers by voluntary contribution. The accommodation in the Royal Infirmary being quite inadequate for the number of fe- ver patients, the subscribers built a temporary fever hospital at Spring Gardens, fitted to contain upwards of 200 beds. The hos- pital was opened on 30th March 1818, and cloiied on 12th July 1819. Between these periods 1929 patients were admitted. The greatest number at one time was 212, and the deaths amounted to 171. During the period of the disease, upwards of 5000 apart- ments in the city and suburbs were fumigated, 600 lodging-houses were examined, infected bedding was burned, and the owners sup- plied with new bedding. In 1819, the working-classes were again tlirown into great distress from want of employment. The seeds of discontent which had been widely sown took deep root in tliis part of the country, and ended in what has been emphatically called Radicalism, At this alarming crisis, when thousands of workers paraded the streets, de- manding employment or bread, upwards of 600 persons were al- most instantly employed at spade work, or breaking stones for the roads. Exclusive of the exertions of the authorities, and individuals in the suburbs, the magistrates of Glasgow simultaneously employed upwards of 340 weavers at spade work in the green, nearly the whole of whom remained for upwards of four months under the direction of Dr Cleland ; audit is only justice to those individuals to say, that under his kind usage and vigilant superintendence, not one of them left their work to attend pplitical meetings in the Green, although thoussmds marched past them with radical ensigns, accompanied by well-dressed females carrying caps of liberty. The distress and dissatisfaction continued during the greater part of 1820, when large distributions of clothing, meal, and coals were given lo 122 LANARKSHIRE. such persons as could not find employment The distress was such that 2040 heads of families were under the necessity of pawning 7380 articles, on which they received L. 739, 6s. 6d* Of the heads of families 1943 were Scotch, and 97 English, Irish, or foreigners ; 1372 had never applied for nor received charity of any description ; 474 received occasional aid from the committee, and 194 were paupers. On the 30th August of that year, James Wilson was hanged and beheaded for high treason* In August 1822, when George IV. visited Edinburgh, the cor- poration of this city and the Merchants and Trades Houses sent de- putations with splendid equipages, and presented loyal addresses to his Majesty. Another period of mercantile distress occurred in 1826, and from 8th April of that year till 31st October 1827, about L. 9000 were laid out for the amelioration of the working-classes, and from 12th March till 20th October 1829, there was expended on work for operatives the sum of L. 2950. Bills of Mortality. — Bills of mortality are understood to contain a list of births, marriages and deaths, from parochial registers, at stated periods, in connection with the population. Glasgow Bills of Mortality. — As the Glasgow bills of mortali- ty, from which the probability of human life in large towns, and other important results may be deduced, have met with more than ordinary approbation from political inquirers, we think it right to give a detailed account of the manner in which those bills have been prepared. The parochial register of births in Glasgow be- ing so defective that no reliance could be placed on it, Dr Cle- land, who had hitherto taken the whole charge of the bills, obtained the necessary information in the following manner : On the 6th of December 1829, he addressed a letter to each of the seventy-five clergymen and lay-pastors in the city and suburbs, who baptize children, requesting to be favoured with returns of the numbers they might baptize from the 14th of December 1829, to the 15th of December 1830, both days inclusive, being the year previous to the last Government census. The letter was accompanied by a book in which the sexes and the particular parishes in which the parents resided were to be inserted. He also requested the vari- ous societies of Baptists, the society of Friends, and Jews, and others who do not dispense the ordinance of baptism to infants, to favour him with the above particulars, relative to children born to mem- bers of their societies ; and in due time he had the satisfaction of re- GLASGOW. 123 ceiTing returns from the whole, as also au account of the children of parent?, who, while disapproving of infant baptism, did not be- loog to any religious society. It appeared that in the city and su- burbs, there were 6397 children baptized or born to Baptists, &c. and of that number there were only 3225 inserted in the parochial registers, leaving unregistered 3172. Although in Scotland there is no marriage act as in England, restricting the solemnization of marriages to clergymen of the Es- tablished Church, the ordinance can only be regularly celebrated by persons duly called to the pastoral office, and not until a certi- ficate of the proclamation of banns has been produced. Persons irregularly married are deprived of the privileges of the church, till they appear before the kirk-session, acknowledge their fault, and be reponed. From this circumstance, in connection with the solicitude of the female and her friends, to have the marriage re- gistered, the marriage register of Glasgow and its suburbs may be held as correct for all statistical purposes. The deaths are ascertained by the number of burials. The burying-grounds in the city and suburbs are placed under the management of fourteen wardens. These officers, who attend every funeral, enter in a memorandum book at the grave, the name, age, and designation of* the person buried, along with the amount of fee received, and the name of the undertaker. Having taken these, and other particulars, the wardens afterwards enter the whole in a book classified conformably to a printed schedule, drawn up by Dr Cleland. At the end of the year they furnish him with an abstract from their books, and it is from a combination of these abstracts that he ascertains the number of deaths at the various ages. The abstract includes still-born children, and the deaths of Jews, and members of the Society of Friends, who have separate burying places. Dr Cleland having been appointed to take the sole charge of conducting the enumeration and classification of the inhabitants of the city of Glasgow and suburbs, for the Government census of 1831, he employed twelve parochial beadles, nineteen mercantile derks, and one superintendent of police, to take the lists. Before the books were prepared, an advertisement was inserted in the Glasgow newspapers, requesting the inhabitants to favour him with their suggestions as to classification, and before the list-takers commenced their operations, bills were posted upon the public 124 LANARKSHIRE. places and dwelling-houses of the city, informing the inhabitants of the nature of the inquiries, and that they had no reference to taxes, and moreover, that non-compliance, or giving a false retum, subjected them to a fine. When the books were returned to him, the public, through the medium of the press, were requested to call at an office appointed for the purpose, and to correct any omission or error which might have been made in their retumfl. The list-takers having made oath before the Lord Provost, that the name of every householder in the district assigned to them^ his, or her age, profession, religion, country, &c had been faith- fully entered in a book, and a similar description of his or her fa- mily taken down, he proceeded to classification, and formed tables ivnd abstracts for each parish, containing numerous details not re- quired for the Government digest, Glasgow Bill of Mortality for 1830. — A general list of births, baptisms, marriages, and burials, within the ten parishes of the royalty, and the suburban parishes of Barony and Gorbals. Birtfit and Baptisms, Returns from clergymen and lay pastors, Add stilUborn from do. - Males* Females, Total. 3281 3116 68d7 246 225 471 Total, 8527 3341 6868 Of this number there were registered only, - 1678 1547 8225 Number unregistered, exclusive of still-born, - 1603 1569 3172* The children were baptised as follows, viz. By clergymen of the Church of Scotland, - - - 3128 By do. of the Secession church, - - - - 664 By do. of the Relief church, - ... 571 By do. of the Roman Catholic church, - - - . 915 By do. of the Scotch Episcopal church, Independents, Methodists, and other denominations, including births among Baptists, Society of Friends, Jews, &c ...... 1024 Total, 6397 Marriages engrossed in the registers of the City, Barony, and Gorbals: — In the city, 857; Barony, 691; Gorbals, 371; to- tal, 1919. Burials engrossed in the registers of the City, Barony, and Gorbals burying grounds : — * While the great importance of accurate parochial registers is admitted by all, it is astonishing how little they have been attended to in this country. In Edinburgbt the metropolis of Scotland, a city distinguished for its erudition, and for its nume- rous and valuable institutions, the baptismal register is miserably defective. It ap- pears from a printed report of a Conunittee of the Town- Council of that city, of date, 20th February 1835, that In 1834, the baptismal register for the thirteen parishes contained only the names of Jour hundred and eighty children. GLASGOW. 125 Of whom have died. MtOes. ^e*9usiff#. TfOal Male*. Females, Total ifffj 273 26B 541 SciU.born, 1 " 246 225 471 rt»7> 22e 223 449 under i one ywu-, ider 2, 463 414 877 nc5h. . 218 tao7 425 1 and > ur 316 307 623 * - 2oe 1B4 392 2 . 5, 263 237 500 175 360 5 • 10, 134 119 253 178 378 10 . 20, 144 132 276 3e«te. 240 So*w. 236 182 376 20 . 30, 189 145 334 1206 438 30 • 40, 169 144 313 229 469 40 - 50. 184 164 348 184 4^) 50 - 60, 177 175 352 j^^r»«nker, 234 189 423 60 - 70, 168 171 339 ^^^eeoiVNT, 255 259 514 70 75 - 75, 80. 85, 109 55 48 102 58 48 211 113 96 tonl. 2701 2484 5185 ft/ 80 » 85 • 90, 24 26 50 90 . 95, 9 10 19 95 . 100, 3 6 9 104 - 1 1 Total, 2701 2484 5185 Ages of persons in Glasgow, and in the Suburban Parishes of Barony and Gorbals, in 1830. Under Five. Males, 15422 Fcmiles, 14855 Total, 30277 Fifty to Sixty. Males, 5549 Females, 6099 Five to Tew. 13127 12580 25707 Ten to Fifteen. 10491 10720 21211 Fifteen to Txtenty to Thirty to Forty to Twenty. Thirty. Forty, Fifty. 8489 15177 12179 8685 12256 23008 14240 9329 20745 38185 26419 18014 Sixty to Seventy to Eighty to Ninety to a 100 and Total. Seventy, Eighty, Ninety. hundred, upwards, 3228 1090 260 26 1 93724 3692 1502 385 32 4 108702 Total, 11648 6920 2592 645 58 5 202426 About twenty years ago, the causes of death were announced yearly in a periodical along with the gross number of burials, but as no confidence could be placed in such statements, Dr Cle- land has since that period declined to publish a list of diseases ; but, being aware that, if a correct list could be obtained at the cen- sus of 1831, when the population, births, marriages, and deaths, were ascertained, it would be very beneficial in a medical point of new, he addressed letters to upwards of 130 medical gentlemen, in the city, and suburbs, requesting that they would favour him with a return of the diseases of which their patients died during the period in which he had requested the clergymen to give him a note of baptisms. As he only succeeded with a small portion of the members of faculty, the attempt became fruitless, and in all probability any future attempt will be unsuccessful, until a com- pulsory act of the legislature regarding parochial registers for births, marriages, and deaths, be obtained. Dr Cleland having also been 126 LANARKSHIRE. entrusted with drawing up and classifying the Government popula- tion returns for 1821, took the same precautions as to births, mar- riages, burials, and population as in 1831, in the view of being able to ascertain the ages of the population, and the periods of life at which death ensued at particular epochs, when the popula* tion could be accurately ascertained. He states as the result of his experience, that in all the authentic bills of mortaUty he had ever seen, there were more males born than females, but, taking the population above fifteen years, the number of females prepon- derates. The following results for Glasgow are derived from the census of 1831. Births — Males, - 3,527 Females, 3,341 excess of males, 186 Males imder five years, 15,422 Females, 14,855 excess of males, 567 Males under ten years, 28,549 Females, 27,435 excess of males, 1,114 Males under fifteen years, 39,040 Females, 38,155 excess of males, 8^ Males under twenty years, 47,529 Females, 50,41 1 excess of females 2,882 Males under thirty years, 62,706 Females, 73,419 excess of females, 10,718 Males — entire population, 93,724 Females, 108,702 excess of females, 14,978 Burials— Males, - 2,701 Females, 2,484 excess of males, 217 Probability of human life in England. — The want of sufficient data for the formation of tables relative to the probability of hu- man life in this country is apparent from a report of a Ck)nmiittee of the House of Commons, (ordered to be printed on 15th Au- gust 1833,) on the evidence of persons distinguished by their knowledge in political science, such as George Mann Burrows, Esq. Doctor in Medicine ; John Bowring, Esq. M. P. Doctor in Laws; Stacey Grimaldi, Esq. Fellow of the Antiquarian Society; the Rev. W. Hale Hale, Chaplain to the Bishop of London, and others, that the public registers in England are so inefficient as to render it impossible to determine the law of mortality among the working- classes of the empire, either generally or. locally. Mr John Tilley Wheeler, clerk to the Worshipful Company of Parish Clerks stated, that in London, the returns for the mortality bill are made up in each parish by two old pauper womeny who are utterly incompe- tent to give correct information, and frequently receive most falla- cious reports ; and John Finlaison, Esq. the Government Actuary, stated that no faith whatever could be put in bills of mortality as they are now prepared. In order to procure an approximation of the rate of mortality which prevails among the working-classes of this country, that distinguished political inquirer resorted to the public registers at Ostend in Flanders, where he made an observa- tion on the mortality of that town for a period of twenty-six years, ending in 1832. The result of his investigations was, that in a GLASGOW. 127 population consisting of about 1 1,000 souls, the rate of mortality was as omt in tkirty'six and one-eiffhth. Mr Finlaison stated in eridence, that " he was enabled to determine that Ostend is (not- withstanding the opinion that prevails in England) a very healthy ntuation, and no doubt is equal to the average of England, at least the only knowledge of the law of mortality, as prevailing among the lower classes in England, on which he was able to de- pend, is derived from that which he obtained in Flanders." Probability of human life in Glatgow. — That Glasgow is a place of average health for statistical purposes, may be inferred from the statement under the head climate. But more particularly the de- gree of health may be known, and tables formed for ascertaining the probability of human life, from a series of the mortality bills, where the ages of the living, and those of persons who have died, are stated in connection with the population, and a table of longe- vity for Scotland, which Dr Cleland prepared in 1821, by which it appeared that, on an average of all the counties of Scotland, there was one person eighty years of age, for every 143iVo of the population, whilst in the county of Lanark, with a population of 316,790, including 263,046, who live in towns, viz. in Glasgow, 202,426, and in other towns, 60,620, there was one such person for every 169.^^9, showing a degree of health in the population of Glasgow nearly equal to that of the whole of Scotland. The following results have reference to Glasgow and its su- burbs, which partake of a mercantile and manufacturing popula- tion, or something between Liverpool and Manchester, but more especially the latter, the town population being 198,518, and the rural, 3908. In 1831, the population was found to be 202,426, the burials 5185, and the rate of mortality consequently 39.^^5 „. The births being 6868, there is one birth for every 29 iV^ per- sons. The number of marriages being 1919, there are 3iV5 births, to each marriage, and one marriage for every lOS^Yo persons, the number of families being 41,965 there are 4yVu persons to each family. It is very satisfactory to know that with the same machinery in 1821, the population being 147,043, the burials 3686, the rate of mortality was 39 y^^^^, or, in other words, as near as may be to the mortality of 1831. By reference to the bills of mortality between the years 1821 and 1831, similar results will be obtained. Thus it appears that the mortality in England in 1832 was as- sumed to be one in 36| derived from data of about 11,000 souls 128 LANARKSHIRE. • resident in and belonging to a foreign country, while the mortality in Glasgow in the preceding year was only one in SOj^q, as as- certained from a population of upwards of 200,000, whose avo- cations are narrated in the Government census; and as to the principle by which the amount of mortality is ascertained, Joshua Milne, Esq., the celebrated political inquirer, author of a Trea- tise on Annuities, the Law of Mortality, &c. and Actuary to the Sun Life Assurance Corporation, London, stated as his opinion, in reference to the Glasgow bill, published by Dr Cleland in 1831, having reference to former bills, that " the law of mortality in a large manufactuing town may now be determined, though it could not heretofore for want of the necessary data." It is therefore no small honour to Glasgow that it may fairly claim precedence in whatever relates to the formation of accurate tables for ascertain- ing the probability of human life in large commercial and manu- facturing towns. Although every one at all conversant with political science would place the utmost confidence in the testimony of Mr Milne, — that testimony has been fully corroborated by the most distinguished political economists in this country, and on the continent : among others, by Mon. Jean Baptiste Say, the Adam Smith of France, Dr Speiker of Berlin, the German Professor Friedlaender, Sir John Sinclair, author of the original Statistical Account of Scot- land ; the Rev. Dr Chalmers, Professor of Divinity in the Uni- versity of Edinburgh, &c.* * As an appendix to the bill of mortality, we have thought it right to give an ab- stract of a statement which was drawn up for the Board of Health respecting cholera. That dreadful epidemic, cholera morbus, showed itself in this city on the 12th Fe- bruary 1832, and continued to 1 1th November. During that period there were 6208 cases, 3203 recoveries, and 3005 deaths, viz. males, 1289; females 1716; of whom, under 20 years of age, 368; 20 years and under 70, 2365 ; 70 years and under 90, 272. It was found that there had been three eruptions of cholera marked by the reduced nunil)er of cases happening about the 3d of June, the I6th September, and the 1 1th November. Each eruption had a period of increase. In the first eruption, persons poorly fed, of irregular habits, and dwelling in the crowded ill-aired parts of the city, were chiefly affected. The second eruption was more severe, the attacks were more scattered over the town, and many healthy persons, and in easy circumstances, fell vic- tims to the disease. The last eruption was milder than the second, but still suri)as- sing the first, both in the number of cases and in the healthy and good condition of many of the sufferers. The total number of cases, 6208, is one for about every 32^ of the population. The total number of deaths, 3005, is one for about every 67^ of the population. The progress of the disease was such as to have seized one victim for about every «(j?, and to have occasioned one death for about every thirteen families. It became desirable, in a medical and statistical point of view, to ascertain the num- ber of burials during the existence of the cholera, namely, from I2th February to 1 1 th November 1832, as compared with the corresponding period in the preceding year, The following was tlie rebult : GLASGOW. 129 III. — Population. There is no enumeratioD of the inhabitants of Glasgow that can be relied on before the year 1610 ; but there are grounds for sup- posing, that about the time of the Reformation, in 1560, the po- pulation amounted to 4500. In 1610, the Episcopal mode of government having been resum- ed in the church. Archbishop Spottiswood directed the population of the city to be ascertained, when it was found to amount to 7644. In 1660, at the restoration of Charles II., the population amount- ed to 14,67a In 1688, at the Revolution, the population had decreased to 11,948. The civil wars are assigned as the cause of the decrease, and it is a curious historical fact, that the number fell off imme- diately after the restoration of Charles II., and that it required more than half a century to make up the defalcation. In 1708, immediately after the union with England, the popu- lation amounted to 12,766. This enumeration was made by direc- tion of the magistrates, to mark the falling off which they expected. In 1712, the population amounted to 13,832. This was made by order of the Convention of Royal Burghs, directing each of the burghs to make a return of its population on oath. In 1740, the population was ascertained by the magistrates to be 17,034. In 1755, the population had increased to 23,546, but this enu- meration included persons living in houses which had been built adjoining to, but without the royalty. At that perjod, the magis- trates directed returns to be made for the Rev. Dr Webster, then preparing his scheme for the Ministers* Widows' Fund. In 1768, the population amounted to 28,300. This» enumera- tion was drawn up by Mr John Woodburn, the city surveyor. Burials from 12th February to 11th November 1832, including persons who died of cholera, ........ 8124 Deduct those who died of cholera, and were buried in the burying.grounds in the city and suburbs, including 161 persons who died beyond the boundary of the population district, - - - - - - 3166 4958 Burials from 12th February to llth November 1831, - - - 4862 Increase of burials during the above period, aAer deducting deaths by cholera, 96 It was very fortunate, in a statistical point of view, that the pestilence did not visit this city when the Government census was taken, otherwise the data for ten years would have been rendered more indistinct and less suit;ib1e for the formation of tables kr exhibiting the probability of human life in large towns. The paper, of which the preceding is an abstract, was prepared by James Clelnnd, LL. D. Member of the Board of Health, one of his Majesty's justices of the peace for the county of Lanark, and by James Corkindalc, M. D., LL. B., Medical Secretary to the Board of Health. 130 LANARKSHIRE. In 1780, the population had increased to 42,832; but in this enumeration the whole of the suburbs were for the first time in- cluded. In 1785, soon after the termination of the American war, the magistrates directed the population to be ascertained ; it then amounted to 45,889. In 1791, the population was ascertained for Sir John Sinclair's national statistical work. At that time, it amounted to 66,578t including 4633, being part of the suburbs which had been omitted in the return. Prior to 1801, the general results only of the different enume- rations were preserved, but in that year a census of the inhabitants of Great Britain was taken, for the first time, by order of Govern- ment, when the population amounted to — males, 35,007 ; females, 42,378 ; total, 77,385. But in this enumeration, a part of the connected suburbs, the population of which amounted to 6384, had been omitted, and which, added to the above, made the actual population of Glasgow at that time 83,769. In 1811, there was another Government enumeration of the in- habitants of Great Britain, according to which the population of Glasgow was as follows : — males, 45,275 ; females, 55,474 ; to- tal, 100,749. But, in like manner, a part of the connected suburbs, the population of which amounted to 9711, had not been included in this enumeration, and which, added to the Go- vernment table, made the population of the city at that period 110,460. In 1819, Dr Cleland, under the sanction of the public bodies, drew up the first classified enumeration of the inhabitants of Glas- gow, according to which, the population amounted to — males, 68,994; females, 78,203; total, 147,197. In 1821, there was another Government enumeration of the in- habitants of Great Britain, when the population of Glasgow was — males, 68,119; females, 78,924; total, 147,043. In 1831, there was a fourth enumeration of the inhabitatfts of Great Britain, according to which, the population of Glasgow was — males, 93,724; females, 108,702; total, 202,426. IV. — Commerce and Manufactures. Glasgow is advantageously situated for commercial pursuits. Placed on the borders of one of the richest coal and mineral fields in the island, with which it communicates by the Monkland Canal, and by various rail-roads, and connected on the one hand with the 4 GLASGOW. 131 Atlantic by the Clyde, and on the other with the North Sea and the German Ocean, by the Forth and Clyde Canal, and the ri?er Forth, it possesses facilities peculiarly favourable for trade. Notwithstanding these local advantages, Glasgow was not remark- able for trade until a considerable time after the union with Eng- land. Its importance in a commercial point of view may be great- ly attributed to the improvements on the Clyde, and to the enter- prising spirit of its merchants and manufacturers during the last seventy years. In 1420, a Mr Elphinstone is mentioned as a curer of salmon and herrings for the French market ; and Princi- pal Baillie mentions that this trade had greatly increased between the years 1630 and 1664. As an encouragement to trade, then in its infancy, an act was passed, in which it was stipulated that the whole materials used in particular manufactures should be ex- empt from duty; and in the same Parliament it was enacted, for the better encouragement of soap manufacturers, that oil, pot- ashes, and other materials for making soap, should be exempt from duty. On 31st of January 1638, " Robert Fleyming and his partners made offer to the town-council, to set up a manufac- tory in the city, wherein a number of the poorer sort of the people may be employed, provided they met with sufficient countenance. On considering which offer, the council resolved, in consideration of the great good, utility, and profit, which will redound to the city, to give the said company a lease of their great lodging and back yard in the Drygate, excepting the two front vaults, free of renty for the space of seventeen years. On 8th May thereafter, the convener of the trades reported, that the freemen weavers were afraid that the erecting of the manufactory would prove hurtful to them. On which, Patrick Bell, one of the partners, agreed that the com- pany should not employ any unfree weavers of the town." Printing. — Letter-press printing was introduced into Glasgow by George Anderson in the year 1638 ; and one of the first works print- ed by him was an account of the General Assembly, which met there the same year. Anderson came to Glasgow in consequence of an invitation from the magistrates. It appears from the records of the town-council, 4th January 1640, that the treasurer was direct- ed to pay him 100 punds, in satisfaction of his expenses " in trans- porting his gear to this burghe," and in full of his bygone salaries from Whitsunday 1638 till Martinmas 1639. It also appears from the records of the council, 10th June 1663, that Anderson was succeeded by his son, Andrew, as ordinary printer to the town and 132 LANARKSHIRE. College, on condition of his " services as well, and his prices being as easy as others." Andrew, who had been a printer in Edinburgh, not finding matters to his mind here, returned to Edinburgh, and in 1671 he was made King's printer for Scotland. Anderson was succeeded in Glasgow by Robert Saunders, who styled himself printer to the city, and who was for many years the only printer in the west of Scotland. But his predecessor, now the royal ty- pographer, came to Glasgow, and by threats and promises prevail- ed on Saunders' workmen to desert him in the midst of an impres- sion of the New Testament. This oppressive conduct brought the matter before the privy-council, which decided in Ifccember 1671, that Saunders should be allowed to finish his book, and that any printer in Scotland had an equal right with his Majesty's to print the New Testament and Psalm Book in the letter common- ly called English Roman. Saunders died about 1696, leaving his printing establishment to his son Robert, better known by the de- signation " of Auldhouse," — a property purchased from a younger branch of the family of Maxwell of Polloc A few of the works first printed by him were tolerably executed ; but his latter pro- ductions are extremely paltry and inaccurate. Printing was now, and for some years afterwards, in the lowest state in Scotland. The exorbitancy of the royal grant to Anderson had produced the worst effects. No person appears to have been employed for the sole purpose of correcting the press ; and the low wages given to pressmen, with the badness of the machines themselves, also tend- ed to retard the improvement. The University, in the meantime, was not wanting in efforts to improve the printing in Glasgow. A. paper, entitled " Proposals for erecting a bookseller's shop, and a printing-press in the Uni- * versity of Glasgow," appears to have been presented to the faculty in 1713, in which it is mentioned, that they were " obliged to go to Edinburgh in order to get one sheet right printed." During the same year, Thomas Harvie, a student of divinity, engaged to fur- nish one or more printing-presses, and in the course of four years to furnish founts and other materials for printing Greek, Latin, and Hebrew, on condition that he should be declared University printer and bookseller for forty years, " with all the privileges and immunities which the University hath, or shall have hereafter, to bestow on their printer and bookseller." Although these terms were probably not ultimately accepted, they seem at least to have been under frequent consideration ; and the sketch of a contract GLASGOW. 133 with Harvie is preserved among the University papers. Two years afterwards, ** Donald Govane, younger, Qierchant in Glasgow, and printer," was appointed to the same oflSce for seven years, but his name appears at few books. James Duncan, who printed M'Ure's History of Glasgow, con- tinued to print here till about the year 1750. Robert Urie and Company were printers in the Gallowgate in 1740; and, during the following year, executed several works for Robert FauUs, (im- properly termed Fowlis.) Urie is entitled to the credit of adding to the respectability of the Glasgow press. Amongst the finest specimens of his work, are his editions of the Greek New Testa- ment, and of the Spectator. But the art of printing was carried to great perfection by the Messrs Faulls, who introduced into Glasgow a style of printing which, for beauty and correctness, has never been surpassed in any country. A brief account of these distinguished persons cannot fail to be interesting. Robert Faulls, -the eldest son of Andrew Faulls, maltster, was born in or near Glasgow, on the 20th of April 1707, and his brother Andrew on the 22dof November 1712. Robert was sent at an early period as an apprentice to a barber, and seems to have practised the art of shaving for some time on his own account. While in this situation, Dr Francis Hutcheson, then Professor of Moral Philoso- phy in the University, discovered in him the talent which was after- wards cultivated with so much success, encouraged his desire of knowledge, and suggested to him the idea of becoming a booksel- ler and printer. Although Robert Faulb did not receive a com- plete University education, he continued to attend for several years the lectures of his patron ; but Andrew received a more regular education, and for some years taught the Latin, Greek, and French languages. Having thus acquired a pretty accurate knowledge of books, Robert began business in Glasgow as a bookseller in 1741, and in the following year the first production of his press appear- ed. He was assisted in the correction of his press by George Rosse, then Professor of Humanity in the University, and by James Moor, at that time a tutor about the college, and afterwards Pro- fessor of Greek. To these advantages may be added the appoint- ment, on 31 St March 1743, of the elder brother as printer to the University. In the same year he produced Demetrius Pkalerius de Elocutioue, apparently the first Greek book printed in Glas* gow, though George Anderson's printing-house had been nearly a century before supplied with Greek and Hebrew types. In 1744, LANARK. K 134 LANARKSHIRE. appeared the celebrated edition of Horace, the proof sheets of which, it is well known, were hung up in the college, and a reward offered to any one who should discover an inaccuracy. By the year 1746, FauUs had printed eighteen different classics, besides Dr Hutcheson's class-book in English and Latin ; and Homer with the Philippics of Demosthenes, were advertised as in the press. The Homer appeared in the following year, both in a quarto and in an octavo form. The first of these is a very beautiful book, and more correct than the other, which was printed after Dr Clarke's edition. The success which had attended the efforts of the FauUses as printers, induced the elder brother to extend the sphere of his usefuhiess. After being four times abroad, he sent home to his brother a painter, an engraver, and a copperplate printer, whom he had engaged in his service, and returned to Scotland in 1753, and soon afterwards instituted an academy in Glasgow for painting, engraving, moulding, modelling, and drawing. The University allowed him the use of a large hall for exhibiting his pictures, and several other rooms for his students ; and three Glasgow merchants afterwards became partners in the undertaking. The students, according to the proposed plan, after having given proofs of genius at home, were to be sent abroad at the expense of the academy. But the scheme, which was somewhat romantic, did not succeed, and was attended with considerable loss to all concerned. In' FauU's own words, " there seemed to be a pretty general emula- tion, who should run it most down." Letter-press printing has been carried on of late years to such an extent that it could not be accomplished without the aid of steam. Printing-machines were invented by Mr Nicholson, editor of the Philosophipal Journal, about the year 1790, but they were first constructed, and put in operation, if not invented anew, by a German named Konig about twenty to thirty years ago, and set agoing in the printing of the London Times newspaper on 28th November 1814, steam being the propelling power. The ma- chines may be said to consist of two kinds, — those which print only one side of a sheet of paper at a time, for newspaper work, — and those which print both sides of the sheet, and are adapted for book work. Messrs Ballantyne and Company of Edinburgh were the first in Scotland who printed by steam. In 1829 or 1830, they fitted up a steam-press for printing Blackwood's Magazine, and the Waverley Novels. Soon after this, the Edinburgh, Leith, and Glasgow Advertiser was printed by steam, then the Edinburgh GLASGOW. 135 Weekly Chronicle, Chambers' Journal, and the Farmers' Maga- zine. In 1831, the Aberdeen Journal was printed in this way ; and in 1834, Mr Edward Khull, printer to the University, fitted up a steam-press for printing the Church of Scotland Magazine in this city. A copartnery for carrying on the whale fishery and making soap was entered into in this city on the 15th of September 1674. Mr George Maxwell of Polloc, (created a baronet in 1682,) Provost William Anderson, and James Colquhoun, one of the bailies uf the city, were among the original partners. The company em- ployed five ships ; and the Providence, built at Belfast, was sailed by Mr John Anderson, one of the partners. The company had extensiTe premises at Greenock for boiling blubber and curing fish. An advertisement appeared from them in the Glasgow Courant on the llih of November 1715, being the first advertisement in the first newspaper in the west of Scotland. It was in the following words : — " Any one who wants good black or speckled soap may be served by Robert Luke, manager of the soaparie of Glasgow, at reasonable rates." The soaparie was at the head of Candle- riggs Street, now the Commercial Buildings. The manufacture of ropes was commenced on the 17th of March 1696. Mr William Crawford of Jordanhill, and Mr James Corbet of Kenmure, were among the first partners. In 1698, an act of Parliament was passed for the further encouragement of the manufacture of ropes and cordage in Glasgow, laying a duty on all ropes imported from the 'Sound or east seas; and, in return, the company were to advance a capital of L. 40,000 Scots, and to bring in foreigners to the work. It is probable that the company's first premises had gone into decay, as the buildings of what was afterwards known by the name of the Glasgow Rope- work Company, reaching between Stockwell Street and Jamaica Street, were not erected till the autumn of 1766. With regard to sugar-houses, although the colonies were not laid open to ^he Scotch until the Union, it appears that there were su- gar-houses in Glasgow long before that period ; for, in an action which the Crown brought against the sugar bakers in Glasgow and Leith, it was urged that they had not only enjoyed the exemption from the duties and customs on the import of materials for a great number of years, but also the duties of excise upon the spirits and other commodities manufactured by them. At length, in 1715, a process was raised against them for the bygone excise duties ; and. 136 LANARKSHIRE. in 1719, the Court of Exchequer found them liable in the sum of L. 40,000 Sterling. As the trade could not pay any such sum, a compromise was suggested, and a clause added to an act of Par- liament, authorizing the treasury to treat with them; and, by another act, the sugar manufacturers were acquitted of the L. 40,000 on relinquishing their right of exemption from duties and customs. The statute is general, and seems to subject all other privileged parties to the general custom and excise of the nation. The only parties in Scotland at that time exempt from the importation du- ties were the Glasgow and Leith sugar companies, the Glasgow soap-work, the rope-work companies, and a pin manufactory; the three last made a claim as a compensation for the surrender of their private rights, which does not seem to have been attended to. The buildings of Stockwell Place are now erected on the site of the sugar-house. The tanning of leather seems to have been carried on in Glas- gow from an early period. The Glasgow Tan-work Company, whose extensive premises were at the head of the Gallowgate, com- menced soon after the Union. There seems to have been three sets of partners in this great undertaking. In 1780, the names of Provost John Bowman ; Mr Alexander Speirs, of Elderslie ; Mr John Campbell, of Clathic; Mr Robert Bogle, of Daldowie; Mr Robert Marshall, and others, appear among its partners. The brewing business, like the tanning, seems to have been car- ried on with great spirit. Soon after the Union, Mr Crawford of Milton erected an extensive brewery at Grahamston, afterwards the property of Mr Robert Cowan. The brewing trade was car- ried on extensively here at an early period by the Anderston Brew- ery Company, and latterly by Messrs Blackstock, Baird, Struthers, Buchanan, Hunter, &c. Previously to the Union, the foreign trade of Glasgow was chiefly confined to Holland and France. The union of the kingdoms, which took place in 1707, having opened the colonies to the Scotch, the merchants of Glasgow immediately availed themselves of the circumstance, and having engaged extensively in a trade with Vir- ginia and Maryland, soon made their city a mart for tobacco, and the chief medium through which the farmers-general of France re- ceived their supplies of that article. In 1721, a remonstrance was preferred to the Lords of the Treasury, charging the Glasgow mer- chants with fraud. After having heard parties, and considered the representation, their Lordships dismissed the complaint "as ground- GLASGOW. 137 less, and proceediDg from a spirit of envy, not from a regard to the interest of trade or the King's revenue." To such an extent was this branch of commerce carried on in Glasgow, that for several years previously to 1770, the annual import of tobacco into the Clyde was from 35,000 to 45,000 hogsheads. In 1771, 49,016 hc^sheads were imported. As the Glasgow merchants were en- abled to undersell, and did undersell, those of London, Bristol, Liverpool, and Whitehaven, jealousies arose which ended in liti-* gation. As the tobacco trade was suspended in 1783, at the break- ing out of the war with America, the merchants of Glasgow engag- ed their capital in other pursuits. Some attempts having been made to open a connection with the West Indies, the imports from that quarter into the Clyde in 1775 were as follow: Sugar, 4621 hogsheads, and 691 tierces; rum, 1154 puncheons, and 193 hogsheads ; cotton, 503 bags. The fol- lowing excerpt of imports into the Clyde, from the custom-house books, shows the great increase of this trade. In the year ending the 5th of January 1815, immediately preceding the battle of Wa- terloo, there were imported, sugar, 540,198 cwts. 2 quarters, and 25 lbs.; mm, 1,251,092 gallons; cotton-wool, 6,530,177 lbs. The import duties of these and other articles amounted to L. 563,058, 2s. 6d., and the produce was imported in 448 ships, carrying 79,219 tons, and employing 4868 men in navigating them. These imports are, exclusive of grain, hemp, tallow, &c from the Baltic, through the Great Canal. The exports during the same period to Ame- rica, the West Indies, and Europe, amounted to L. 4,016,181, 12s. 2^., and 592 ships, 94,350 tonnage, and 6476 men, were employed in this traffic In 1718, the art of type-making was introduced by James Dun- can. The types used by him are evidently of his own making, being rudely cut, and badly proportioned. He deserves credit, however, for the attempt, and his letters are little inferior to those used by the other Scottish printers of that period. In M'Ure's History of Glasgow, he is styled " printer to the city." In 1740, the art was brought to great perfection by Mr Alexan- der Wilson, afterward Professor of Astronomy in this University, and by bis fnend Mr John Baine. They first settled at St An- drews, the place of their nativity, but soon after removed to Cam- lachie, a suburb of this city, where they carried on business till the partnership was dissolved on Mr Baine's going to Dublin, where he remained but a short time. The professor removed to Glas- 138 LANARKSHIRE. gow, and lived to see his foundery become the most extensive and the most celebrated of any in Europe. At his death, the business was carried on by his son, and continued by the family on a very extensive scale for a number of years. As a considerable part of their types went to London and Edinburgh, and as other type- makers had commenced business here, the Messrs Wilsons, in 1834, removed their business from this city, one part of it to London, and the other to Edinburgh ; Alexander conducting the London de- partment, and Patrick the Edinburgh. Although the origin of stereotyping is uncertain, it is evident that it was not invented by the French. If it be a modern inven- tion, or there be any question as to the country in which it was first used, the Scots are entitled to the preference ; for there certainly was an instance of the art having been used in Edinburgh many years before the earliest date at which it is said, or is even suppos- ed to have been used in France. And in evidence of this, refer- ence is made to the original stereotyped page of Sallust, with the plate and matrix, as well as a copy of the book, in the Hunterian Museum at Glasgow. Mr Andrew Duncan introduced stereotyp- ing into this city in 1818; and since that period, Messrs Hutchi- son and Brookman, Edward KhuU, Blackie and Son, and Fuller- ton and Company, carry on the business of stereotyping to a very great extent. Steam Engines as applicable to Manufactures, — As the great im- provement on the steam-engine was made in Glasgow, a brief ac- count of that mighty engine may not be improper here. The steam-engine was invented in the reign of Charles II. by the Mar- quis of Worcester, who, in the year 1663, published a book en- titled A Century of Inventions. But as the Marquis, though not- able as a theoretical projector, knew little of practical detail, Cap- tain Savary took up the subject, and published a book in 1696, en- titled The Miner* s Friend^ where he described the principles of his improvement, for which he obtained a patent. About this time, M. Papin, a Frenchman, came to England, and becoming fami-r liar with the elastic power of steam, on his return home he was employed by Charles, Landgrave of Hesse, to raise water by a ma- chine which he constructed ; and from this, his countrymen affect- ed to consider him as the inventor of the steam-engine. In 1707, he published an account of his inventions. Not long after this, Mr Amonton contrived a machine which he called a fire-wheel. It consisted of a number of buckets placed in the circumference of GLASGOW. 139 the wheel, and communicating with each other by very circuitous passages. One part of the circumference was exposed to the heat of a furnace, and another to a stream or cistern of cold water. At the death of Amonton, M. Dessandes, a member of the Acade- my of Sciences at Paris, presented to the academy a project of a steam-wheel, where the impulsive force of the vapours was impel- led ; but it met with little encouragement. In the meantime, the English engineers had so much improved Savary's invention, that it supplanted all others. Mr Newcomen, a blacksmith at Dart- mouth in Devonshire, observing that Savary's engine could not lift water from deep mines, set his genius to work, and made great im- provements on it. Savary's engine raised water by the force of steam ; but, in Newcomen's contrivance, this was done by the pressure of the atmosphere, and steam was employed merely as the most ex- peditious method of producing a vacuum. This engine was first offered to the public in 1705, but its imperfections were not removed till 1717, when Mr Beighton brought it into its present form. The greatest improvement on the steam-engine was, however, reserved for Mr James Watt, who was born at Greenock on the 1 9th of January 1736. When Mr Watt had completed his edu- cation in Greenock and Glasgow, he went to London in 1754, and returned in 1757, and in a short time he was appointed philoso- phical instrument-maker to the university. This circumstance laid the foundation of an intimacy with Drs Adam Smith, Black, and Dick, Mr Anderson, Mr Robison, and other distinguished persons connected vnth the university. In contemplating the principles of a small working model of Newcomen's steam-engine, which Pro- fessor Anderson sent him to repair, Mr Watt thought it capable of improvement ; and having procured an apartment in Delftfield, he shut himself up along with his apprentice, Mr John Gardner, after- wards a philosophical instrument-maker in this city, and it was in this place that the foundation of the great improvement on the steam-engine was laid.* In 1769, Mr Watt, on the recommenda- tion of Dr Black, formed a connection with Dr Roebuck of Carron * When Jean Baptiste Say, the celebrated French philosopher, Tisited Glasgow several jears ago, he sat down in the class>room chair which had been used by Dr Adam Smith, and after a short prayer, said) with great fervour, " Lord, let now thy servant depart in peace." in August 1834, when the no less celebrated M. Arago, Perpetual Secretary to the French Institute, visited this University, accompanied by Piincipal MacfarUn, Professor MacGill, Professor Mcikleham, and Dr Cleland, he requested to see the small model of Newcomen's steam-engine, which directed Mr Walt's mind to his great improvements. On the engine iK'ing shown him, he express ^ great delight, and considered it as a relic of great value. 140 LANARKSHIRE. Iron-works, when he left Glasgow for Kinneil House, near these works, where he constructed a small steam-engine. The cylinder was of block-tin, eighteen inches diameter. The first experiment, which was made at a coal mine, succeeded to admiration ; indeed his success was so great, that he procured a patent '^ for saving steam and fuel in fire-engines." Dr Roebuck's affairs becoming embarrassed in 1775, Mr Watt formed a connection with Mr Boul- ton of Soho, Birmingham, where they had the exclusive privilege of making steam-engines for a period of twenty-Jive years. On the expiration of the exclusive privilege, the engineers of this city commenced making steam-engines ; and to such an extent is this business carried on here for every part of the country, that there are now fourteen firms who make steam-engines or mill ma- chinery. Some of the works are more like national than private undertakings. Three houses alone employ upwards of 1000 per- sons in this important branch of trade. It appears from Dr Cleland's folio statistical work, that in 1831 there were in Glasgow and its suburbs thirty-one different kinds of manufactures where steam-engines are used, and that in these, and in collieries, quarries, and steam-boats, there were 355 steam-en- gines = 7366 horse power ; average power of engines rather more than twenty horses each. The increase of engines in four years may be taken at about 10 per cent. The Cotton Trade. — The manufacture of linens, lawns, cambrics, and other articles of similar fabric, was introduced into Glasgow about the year 1725, and continued to be the staple manufacture till they were succeeded by muslins. The following is a brief ac- count of that important event : About the year 1730, the late Mr J. Wyatt of Birmingham first conceived the project of spinning cotton yarn by machinery. The wool had to be carded in the common way, and was pressed between two cylinders, whence the bobbin drew it by means of the twist. In 1741 or 1742, the first mill for spinning cotton was erected in Birmingham ; it was turned by two asses walking round an axis, and ten girls were employed in attending the work. A work upon a larger scale on a stream of water was soon after this established at Northampton under the direction of Mr Yeoman ; but nothing new had occurred in weaving till 1750, when Mr John Kay, a weaver in Bury, invented the fly shuttles. In 1760, Mr James Hargreave, a weaver at Stanhill, near Church in Lanca- 4 GLASGOW. 141 shire, adapted the stock cards used in the woollen manufacture, to the carding of cotton, and greatly improved them. By their means, a person was able to do double the work, and with more ease than by hand-carding. This contrivance was soon succeeded by the cy- linder carding-machine. It has not been ascertained who was the inventor of this valuable machine, but it is known, that the grand- &ther of Sir Robert Peel, late first Lord of the Treasury, was among the first who used it In 1767, Mr Hargreave invented the spinning jenny. This machine, although of limited powers, when compared with the beautiful inventions which succeeded it, must be considered as the first and leading step in that progress of dis- covery, which carried improvement into every branch of the manu- facture, changing as it proceeds, the nature and character of the means of production, by substituting mechanical operation for hu- man labour. The progress of invention after this was rapid. Hargreave in the meantime had removed to Nottingham, where he erected a small spinning work, and soon afterwards died in great poverty. The jenny having in a short time put an end to the spinning of cotton by the common wheel, the whole wefts used in the manufacture continued to be spun upon that machine, until the invention of the mule jenny, by which in its turn it was super- seded. It would appear, that whilst Hargreave was producing the common jenny, Mr (afterwards Sir Richard) Arkwright, was em- ployed in contriving that wonderful piece of mechanism, the spin- ning-frame, which, when put in motion, performs of itself the whole process of spinning, leaving to man only the office of sup- plying the material, and of joining or piecing the thread.* In 1769, Mr Arkwright obtained his patent for spinning with rollers, and he erected his first mill at Nottingham, which he worked by horse power. But this mode of giving motion to the machinery being expensive, he built another mill at Cromford in Derbyshire, in 1771, to which motion was given by water. Water- twist received its name from the circumstance of the machinery from which it is obtained, having for a long time after its invention been generally put in motion by water. The only improvement or even alteration yet made on Sir Richard's contrivance, the spin- ning-frame, is the machine invented several years ago, called the throstle. Instead of four or six spmdles being coupled together, * 'lliose who detire a more minute account of the early history of the cotton trade, arc referred to a valuable and elaborate work on that stibject, by Mr John Kennedy of Manchester. * 142 LANARKSHIRE. forming what is called a head, with a separate movement by a pulley and drum, as is the case in the frame, the whole rollers and spindles on both sides of the throstle are connected together, and turned by bands from a tin cylinder lying horizontally under the machine, but its chief merit consists in the simplification of the apparatus, which renders the movement lighter. Besides this, the throstle can with more ease and at less expense than the frame be altered to spin the different grists of yarn. In the year 1775, Mr Samuel Crompton, of Bolton, completed his invention of the mule jenny, so called from its being in its struc- ture and operation a compound of the spinning-frame, and of Har- greave's jenny. The mule was originally worked by the spinner's band, but in the year 1792, Mr William Kelly of Glasgow, at that time manager of the Lanark mills, obtained a patent for moving it by machinery ; and although the undisputed inventor of the pro- cess, he allowed every one freely to avail himself of its advantages. A great object expected to be obtained by this improvement was, that, instead of employing men as spinners, which was indispen- sable when the machine was to be worked by the hand, children would be able to perform every office required. To give the means of accomplishing this, Mr Kelly's machinery was contrived so as to move every part of the mule, even to the returning of the carriage into its place, after the draught was finished. But after a short trial of this mode of spinning it was discovered that a greater amount of produce might be obtained, and at a cheaper rate, by taking back the men as spinners, and employing them to return the car- riage as formerly, whilst the machine performed the other operations. In tliis way one man might spin two mules, the carriage of the one moving out during the time the spinner was engaged in returning the other. The process of mule-spinning continued to be conduct- ed upon this plan until lately, when several proprietors of large cotton works restored that part of Mr Kelly's machinery which re- turns the carriage into its place after the draught is completed. During the time that the machines for the different processes of cotton spinning were advancing towards perfection, Mr James Watt had applied his admirable improvements on the steam-en- gine to give motion to mill-work in general. His inventions for this end, besides the ingenuity and beauty of contrivance which they possess, have had an influence upon the circumstances of this country, and of mankind, far more important than that produced by any other mechanical discovery. GLASGOW. 143, The foregoing application merely assisted the spinner in push- ing in the carriage. To meet the more nice and difficult operations of winding the thread upon the spindle, and forming it into the -proper shape of a cop, still devolved upon the spinner, and required per- sons of superior skill and dexterity. The wages of that class of workmen have been maintained at a higher range than in the ge- nerality of manufacturing employments. This high rate of wages has led to the contrivance of many expedients to lessen the cost of production in this process of the manufacture. About the year 1795, Mr Archibald Buchanan of Catrine, now one of the oldest practical spinners in Britain, and one of the earliest pupils of Ark- wright, became connected with Messrs James Finlay and Com- pany, of Glasgow, and engaged in refitting their works at Ballin- dalloch in Stirlingshire. Having constructed very light mule jen- nies, he dispensed altogether with the employment of men as spin- ners, and trained young women to the work. These he found more easily directed than the men, more steady in attendance to their work, and more cleanly and tidy in the keeping of their ma- chines, and contented with much smaller wages. That work has ever since been wrought by women, and they have always been remarkable for their stout healthy appearance, as well as for good looks, and extreme neatness of dress. Mr Buchanan having, in 1802, removed to the Catrine works, in the parish of Sorn, Ayr- shire, then purchased by James Finlay and Company, carried some female spinners with him, and there introduced most successfully the same system as at Ballindalloch. This system has from time to time been partially adopted at other works in Scotland and Eng- land ; but men are still most generally employed. The men having formed a union for the protection of their trade, as they supposed, have from time to time annoyed their employers with vexatious interferences and restrictions, which have induced a great desire on the part of the masters to be able to dispense with their employment; and this has led to several attempts to invent a set of mechanism to perform all the operations hitherto performed by men or women, thereby forming a self-acting mule. Mr William Kelly was the first to patent a machine of this description in the J ear 1792, as has already been stated. About the same time, Mr Archibald Buchanan of Catrine Works, then at Deanston Works, in Perthshire, made an attempt to perfect a self-acting mule, but was not at that time successful. The next attempt was made by Mr Eaton of Derbv, who took out a patent in 1815, and fitted up 144 LANARKSHIRE. a flat of his mills in Manchester soon after. The mechanism being complicated, no practical spinners ventured to give the machine a trial. In 1825, M. de Jonge, an ingenious French gentleman, who has been long resident in this country, contrived a machine of more simple construction, for which he obtained a patent This he had in operation at Warrington in Lancashire, and in Yorkshire; but they have never made farther progress. The spinners of Man- chester and neighbourhood having been much annoyed by the union of their spinners, applied to Messrs Sharp, Roberts, and Company, celebrated machine-makers, to allow their Mr Roberts, a man of great ingenuity, and of much skill and taste in mechanism, to en- deavour to perfect a self-acting mule. This Mr Roberts under- took ; and having devoted himself to the pursuit, succeeded, after several years of experiment, and at the expense of a large sum of money, (upwards, it is said, of L. 10,000, ) in producing a machine which has been found to work well in the spinning of yarn, not ex- ceeding forty hanks in the pound. In the construction of this ma- chine there is a display of great ingenuity, skill, and taste, and it has been adopted to some extent by several extensive spinners* Still, however, there are objections to these machines, on account of the complexity and expense of the mechanism ; and from the peculiar style of the movements, the machine is still liable to break- age, and to considerable tear and wear. About the year 1826, Mr Buchanan having to renew the mules at Catrine Works, re- solved to attempt again a self-actor ; and with some suggestions from his nephew, Mr James Smith of Deanston Works, and with much ingenuity and perseverance on his own part, he succeeded in contriving an effective machine. He has had his whole work in operation on this plan for six years past, and under his peculiar good management, the machines perform very well in low num- bers. In 1820, Mr James Smith of Deanston Works had con- trived and constructed the mechanism of a self-acting mule ; but his attention having been required to other more extensive and important operations, he laid it aside, it is believed, without trial. In 1833, Mr Smith seeing the desire that existed for a simple and efficient self-acting mule, and more especially such as could be applied to the mules of various constructions at present in general use in the trade, set about contriving one ; and, having made some progress, he came to hear of a very simple contrivance for facili- tating the process of backing off (one of the most difficult to ac- GLASGOW. 145 complish iu a self-actor,) by John Robertson, an operative spin- ner, and foreman to Mr James Orr of Croftbead Mill, in Renfrew- shire. Robertson, through Mr Orr, obtained a patent for his in- vention, which consisted of other movements, rendering the mule completely self-acting. Mr Smith, struck with the simplicity and efficacy of his backing-off movement, which consists in stripping the coils from the spindles, entered into an arrangement with Mr Orr and Robertson, and having united the mechanism of his own patent with that of Robertson and Orr, they have now brought out a machine, which is considered to be more simple and effective, and more generally applicable to all mules, than any other yet brought before the trade, and it is believed it will soon be gene- rally adopted. The adoption of the self-acting mules will bring the business of spinning much more under the control of the master, and will aid much in enabling the spinners of Britain to maintain a success- ful competition against the cheap labour of other countries, who have less capital and less facilities for obtaining these improved machines, and less skill for their management, if obtained. About six years ago, Mr Smith of Deanston Works, invented a very simple throstle for spinning water-twist yarn, in the form of a cop, intended to facilitate the manufacture of water-twist shirt- ing. This machine works well, and the tension of the thread in spinning is maintained by the action of two fanner's slades or wings attached to the stem of a spindle, similar to a mule spindle, and on which the cop is built ; and which, from the uniform and soft resistance of the air, gives a never-varying tension. But the most wonderful improvement in water-spinning was brought to this coun- try from the United States in 1831, by Mr Alexander Carrick, a native of Glasgow, who then obtained a patent for the invention. The inventor, a mechanic of the name of Danforth, came with the machine to this country, and it has now obtained his name, being denominated the Danforth Throstle. This throstle has no flies. The twisting part consists of a dead or fast spindle, on which a socket of about five inches long is fitted to revolve, and on this the bobbin for receiving the thread being spun is placed. On the top of the spindle is placed a hollow cap of one and a-half to two in- ches diameter, which covers the bobbin ; and the thread, passing from the roller to the bobbin, is revolved by the motion of the socket and bobbin round the outer surface of this cap ; but the centrifugal force of the thread causes it to fly out from the cap, 14G LANARKSHIRE. and the only point of contact is round the edge of the mouth of the cap, when the thread passes to the bobbin. From this, and the resistance of the air to the movement of the thread, the ten- sion is derived, and is light and uniform. The spindle of the com- mon throstle cannot be driven to advantage above 4000 or 5000 revolutions in a minute, whilst the Danforth socket may be run with advantage at 8000 or 9000. This machine has been slowly getting into use, and suits to spin twist from tens to forties. The yarn has a medium character, betwixt water-twist and mule-twist. The power required to turn this machine is great, and the tear and wear of the machine considerable. Another American throstle (which, however, was invented in Scotland thirty years ago,) was introduced about four years ago, by Mr Montgomerie of Johnston. It consists of a long central spindle, embraced by a double-necked flur, and is said to work well, building the yarn in the form of a cop, or on a bobbin, as may be required. Several are at work about Glasgow. By these and other improvements in the various pro- cesses of cotton spinning, as much yarn can now be spun for 5s. of wages as cost L. 1 twenty-five years ago. * In the year 1797, a new machine for cleaning cotton was invent- ed by Mr Neil Snodgrass, now of Glasgow, and first used at John- ston, near Paisley, by Messrs Houston and Company. It is called a skutching or blowing machine. Its merits were not sufficiently known till 1808 or 1809, when it was introduced into Manchester. About that period it received some improvements from Mr Ark- wright, and Mr Strutt, who applied a fanner to create a strong draft of air passing through a revolving wire sieve, whereby the dust and small flur separated from the cotton by the blows of the skutcher is carried off, and thrown into a chamber, where it is de- posited, or into the open air out of doors ; whilst the opened cot- ton is stopped by the sieve, and, arranging into a fleecy form of uniform thickness, passes by the revolution of the sieve to a roller, when it is wound up, to be carried to the carding-engine. The most complete arrangement of this machine was made by • III November 1831, Dr Cleland ascertained, that in 44 mills in Lanarkshire, for spinning cotton, there were 1844 spinners, 640,188 spindles, viz. 591,288 mules, and 48,900 throstles. On 21st July 1834, the total number of persons employed in the cotton, woollen, flax, and silk mills in Scotland, was 46,823, of whom 13,721 (3799 males, and 9992 females) are between the ages of 13 and 18, and 6228 (2552 males, and 3676 females,) are under 13 years of age. There are few under 1 1. Tlieir number, as stated in the returns, amounts to 1143; but that is not to be taken as the number now in the mills some mill owners having discharged all under 11 Factory Report j p. 7. 3 GLASGOW. 147 Mr Buchanan of Catrine Works in 1817, whereby the whole pro- cesses of opening, cleaning, and lapping the cotton are performed at once by a series of four skutchers, each with a sieve. The rooms in which these machines work are as free of dust as a drawing-room; and this process, at one time the most disagreeable and unwhole- some, is now quite the reverse ; besides, the cotton being com- pletely freed of the dust and flur, is more cleanly in all succeed- ing processes, much to the comfort of the workers, and the bene- fit of the work. • Little improvement was made in the carding-engine for many years. About 1812, however, a system of completing the carding process in one machine was introduced, and is now pretty generally adopt- ed for numbers under fifties, and in some cases as high as eighties. In 1815, Mr Smith of Deanston Works, constructed a carding-en- gine, having the flats or tops moveable on hinges, and applied an apparatus for turning and cleaning the tops, which was the first self-topping engine ; and with him the idea had originated. Two years after, Mr Buchanan arranged a more perfect machine, and had it adopted in all his water-twist mills. Some years after, he farther improved this apparatus, and obtained a patent. In 1829, Mr Smith again improved the topping apparatus, by substituting a chain of successive tops, and had them made of tin plate, to avoid warping. This improvement, together with a neat and effective arrangement of cylinders, forming a compact single engine, he com- pleted in 1833, and obtained a patent These engines occupy about half the space of the Oldham en- gine much used in England, make more perfect work, and will turn off nearly two pounds per inch of wire per day, for numbers from thirties to forties. Some of the movements are extremely striking and beautiful. This machine gives promise of many advantages to the trade. In the roving process some recent improvements have been in- troduced. About ten years ago, Mr Henry Houldsworth Junior of Glasgow, now of Manchester, contrived a beautiful differential mo- tion for the winding in of the rovings on the spindle and fly ma- chine, andobtaifled a patent. This improvement has got much into use. About the same time a very peculiar mode of roving was introduced from America, by the late Mr James Dunlop, and which was afterwards improved, and patented by Mr Dyer of Man- chester. This machine is called the tube-machine, and has got much into use for the lower numbers of yarns. The rove coming 148 LANARKSHIKK. from the drawing rollers, passes through a tube revolving at the rate of 5000 turns per minute, whereby a hard twist is thrown up to the rollers, and the roving being wound on a spool or bobbin at the opposite end of the tube, gives off all the twist, but from the compression and rubbing it has undergone, retains a round and compact form, and has sufficient tenacity to pull round the spool or bobbin, in being drawn into the spinning-machine. This machine is simple, goes at a great speed, and turns off a deal of work, but it has not yet been successfully applied to any numbers above forties. There are now many splendid spinning establishments in and around Glasgow. Those of the Lanark Company, on the Clyde, about twenty miles from Glasgow, are the most extensive in one establishment ; but the three establishments of Messrs James Fin- lay and Company of Glasgow, (of which Mr Kirkman Finlay is the head,) at Catrine, Deanston, and Ballindalloch, are the most extensive ones in the whole kingdom, and employ about 2400 hands in spinning, weaving, bleaching, &c. In reviewing the various machines which have been invented for the cotton manufacture, the result terminates in this, — that one man can now spin as much cotton yarn in a given time as 200 could have done sixty years ago. On the 21st of July 18^34, Mr Leonard Horner, one of the Par- liamentary Factory Commissioners, reported, " That in Scotland there are 134 cotton-mills ; that, with the exception of some large establishments at Aberdeen, and one at Stanley, near Perth, the cotton manufacture is almost entirely confined to Glasgow, and the country immediately adjoining, to a distance of about 25 miles radius ; and all these country mills, even including the great work at Stanley, are connected with Glasgow houses, or in the Glasgow trade. In Lanarkshire, (in which Glasgow is situated,) there are 74 cotton factories; in Renfrewshire, 41 ; Dumbarton- shire, 4 ; Buteshire, 2; Argyleshire, 1 ; Perthshire, 1. In these six counties, there are 123 cotton-mills," nearly 100 of which belong to Glasgow. The following statement, also from the Factory Commission Report, will give a pretty good ideJof the amount of cotton trade in Glasgow : " In Lanarkshire, there are 74 cotton, 2 woollen, and 2 silk factories ; 78 steam engines,* namely, 17, each • * Mr (afterwards Sir Richard) Arkwright obtained his patent for spinning cot- ton with rollers in 1769. Soon after this he erected his first mill at Nottingham* which he worked by horse-power. His second mill he erected at Cronift>rd in Derbyshire in 1771, to which he gave motion by water. In 17B5, Messrs Boulton GLASGOW. 149 of 50 horse power and upwards ; 1 1 from 40 to 49 horse power ; 9 from 30 to 39 horse power; 19 from 20 to 29 horse power; 20 from 10 to 19 horse power; 2 under 10 horse power. Wal- ter-wheels, 3, each of 50 horse power and upwards ; 2 under 10 horse power. Total horse power, 2914 ; of which, steam, 2394, water, 520. Total persons employed in factories, 17,949 ; of this number, 13 years and under 18 years, 5047, viz. males, 1345 ; females, 3702 ; under 13 years, 1651, viz. males, 756; females, 895.'* The increase of the cotton trade in Scotland may be seen by the following official statement of cotton-wool taken for the con- sumption of Scotland from 1818 till 1834. Yeart. Bi^e*. Yean. Balet. 181B, 46,565 1827, 72.655 1619, 50,123 1828, 74,037 1820, 51,994 1829, 79,742 1821, 53,002 1830, 79,801 1822, 55.447 1831, 85,929 1823, 54,691 1832, 68,162 1824, 54,708 1833, 86,964 1825, 56,995 1834, 95,603 1826. 56»il7 Calico-printing has been the subject of modern improvement, which may be compared in importance with those in cotton-spin- ning; and most of these improvements have either originated or been matured and perfected in Lancashire. The old method of printing still continued — for certain parts of the work — was by blocks and Watt put up the first steam engine for spinning cotton in Britain, at Papplewick, for Meaars Robison. The first steam engine for spinning cotton in Manchester was put up in 1790, and the first in Glasgow in 1792. This was for Messrs Scott, Stc- ▼cnsm, and Company, opposite the Broomielaw. The following table, taken from Mr Baines* History of the Cotton Manufiwture, cihibits the astonishing increase of the cotton trade in sixty-six years. Grand summary of cotton mills in the United Kingdom. No. of Hortepi tmer. NiKofperaont DUtricU of Factory Inspector §, Mills, Steam. Water. employed, 175,268 Mr Rickards, 934 26^13 6,0934 Mr Homer's^ 152 3,670 2,792 35,623 Mr fiauDder*s, 54 438 1,172 8,128 Mr HoweU'b, 14 1154 1000 232 146 1,806 Total, - 30353 10,203i 7,3434 220325 la England and Wales, 27,049 185»031 In Scotland, 125 3,200 2,480 31,099 In Ireland, - - - 29 604 880 4,695 Total in the United Kingdom, 1154 30^53 10,2031 220^25 In 1785* when Boulton and Watt put up their first steam engine for spinning cot- ton, the quantity of cotton imported into Great Britain, was 18,400,384 lbs. of which there were exported 407,496 lbs. In forty>eight years after, yiz. in 1833, the quan- tity imported was 303,65^837 lbs. ; exported, 17^63,882 lbs* ; quantitjr entered (or eoiMQmption, 293,682,976 lbs. LANARK. L 150 LANARKSHIRE. of sycamore, about ten inches long by five broad, on the surface of which the pattern was cut in relief, in the common method of wood- engraving. On the back of the block was a handle by which the workman held it : the surface was applied to a woollen cloth stretch- ed over a vessel containing the colour, and in contact with that colour, so as to be saturated by it, and was then laid upon the piece of cloth, (there being wire points at the comers of the block to enable the workmen to apply it with exactness,) and struck with an iron mallet. Tims the figure was impressed upon the doth, one colour only being used at once ; and if other colours were re- quired to complete the pattern, it was necessary to repeat the ope- ration with different blocks. In order to produce more delicate pat- terns than could be engraved on wood, copper-plates were intro- duced in the neighbourhood of London, and the cloth was thus printed from flat plates, with the kind of press used in copper-plate printing. Each of these modes was tedious, as no more of the cloth could be printed at once than was covered with the wooden block or copper-plate ; and a single piece of calico, twenty-eight yards in length, required the application of the block 448 times. The grand improvement is the art of cylinder printing, which bears nearly the same relation in point of despatch to block-prints ing by hand as throstle or mule spinning bears to spinning by the one thread wheel. This great invention is said to have been made by a Scotchman of the name of Bell, and it was first successfully applied in Lanca- shire, about the year 1785, at Mosney, near Preston, by the house of Livesay, Hargreaves, Hall, and Company. The chemical department of printing has not been less rich in discoveries than the mechanical. At the head of these stands the grand discovery of the properties of chlorine, and which are of important use in several stages and processes of printing, as well as in whitening the cloth. Whenever, in the course of printing, the calico is to be freed from stain or discoloration, the solution of chloride of lime is used ; and by the aid of this powerful agent a rich chintz, which formerly required many weeks to print in the summer season, when it could be laid on the grass exposed to the air and sun, is now produced without ever going from under the roof of the factory, and almost in as many days. It has been remarked, that cotton fabrics are very rarely dyed of a uniform colour. Sometimes a flower, stripe, or other figure, is printed on a white ground ; and at other times the pattern only GLASGOW. 151 « is white, and the rest of the cloth dyed. The proper use of mor- dants lies at the foundation of the dyer's art. The nature of mor- dants is thus explained by Dr Thomson : '' The term mordant is applied by dyers to certain substances with which the cloth to be dyed must be impregnated, otherwise the colouring matters would not adhere to the cloth, but would be removed by washing. Thus the red colour given to cotton by madder would not be fixed, unless the cloth were previously steep- ed in a solution of a salt alumina. It has been ascertained that the cloth has the property of decomposing the salt of alumina, and of combining with and retaining a portion of alumina. The red co- louring principle of the madder has an affinity for this alumina, and combines with it. The consequence is, that the alumina be- ing firmly retained by the cloth, and the colouring matter by the alumina, the dye becomes fast, or cannot be removed by washing the cloth with water, even by the assistance of soap, though simple water is sufficient to remove the red colouring matter from the cloth, unless the alum mordant (from the Latin word mordeoj to bite,) was applied to these substances by the French writers on dyeing, from a notion entertained by them, that the action of the mordants was mechanical ; that they were of a corrosive or biting nature, and served merely to open pores in the fibres of the cloth, into which the colouring matter might insinuate itself. And. after the inaccuracy of this notion was discovered, and the real use of mor^ daiits ascertained, the term was still continued as sufficiently ap- propriate, or rather, a proper name without any allusion to its ori- ginal signification. The term mordant, however, is not limited to those substances merely which serve, like alumina, to fix the co- lours. It is applied also to certain substances which have the pro- perty of altering the shade of colour, or of brightening the colour as it is called.'' * The art of dyeing the fine red, called Turkey or Adrianople red, on thread or yam, has long been practised in the Levant, and subsequently in Europe. About forty years ago, it was introduced in Glasgow by M. Papillon, a Frenchman, who established a dye- wofk with Mr Geoige Macintosh, and this city has ever since been famous for dyeing Turkey red. The art of giving this colour to cloth was unknown till the year 1810, when it wasfirst practised by M. Daniel Koechlin of Mulhau- sen, in Alsace. The discovery, which has immortalized the name of • Encyclopedia Britannica, 7th edition, article, " Dyeing." 152 LANARKSHIRE. this gentleman in the annals of calico-printing, was made the fol- lowing year. It consists in printing upon Turkey red, or any dyed colour, some powerful acid, and then immersing the cloth in a so- lution of chloride of lime. Neither of these agents singly and alone affects the colour; but those parts which have received the acid, on being plunged in chloride of lime, are speedily deprived of their dye, and made white by the acid of the liberated chlorine. This is one of the most beautiful facts in the chemistry of calico-print- ing- For this process, a patent was obtained in this country by Mr James Thomson of Primrose, near Clitheroe, in the year 1813; and the same gentleman, in 1816, took out a second patent for a very useful and happy modification of the principle of the former one, namely, for combining with the acid some mordant, or metal- lic oxide, capable, after the dyed colour was removed, of having imparted to it some other colour. This laid the foundation of that series of processes, in which the chromic acid and it§ combinations have since been employed with such great success. Progress of the Power-Loom, — The power-loom was introduced into Glasgow in the year 1793, by Mr James Lewis Robertson of Dumblane. It was invented by the Rev. Dr Cartwright of Don- caster, and was patented by him in 1774. About 1789 or 1790, a number of these looms were fitted up in the hulks, to employ the convicts. They were driven in a manner similar to the inkle-loom, of which, indeed, the whole machine was a modification. Mr Ro- bertson having been in London in 1792 or 1793, bought a couple of the looms from the hulks, and brought them to Glasgow, when they were fitted up, and wrought in a cellar in Argyle Street. He removed the driving-bar, and employed a large Newfoundland dog, walking in a drum or cylinder, to drive the looms. He had an in- genious old man, William Whyte, from Denny, to manage the looms ; and, by a son-in-law of this man's, the design of the looms was communicated to a bleaching and calico-printing establishment at Milton, near Dumbarton, in 1794, where about forty looms were fitted up there for weaving calicoes for printing. In 1801, Mr John Monteith of Glasgow got a pair of looms from Milton, and, in the course of two years afterwards, had 200 looms at work in a portion of his spinning establishment at Pollockshaws, near Glas- gow. In 1803, Mr Thomas Johnston of Bradbury, Cheshire, in- vented a very beautiful and useful machine for warping and dres- sing warps; and sometime after, Messrs Radcliffe and Ross of Stock- GLASGOW. 153 port improved the dressing-machine, and obtained a patent for these improvements. This machine they also employed in dres- sing webs to be woven on hand-looms by boys and girls. In 1804, Mr Monteith prevailed upon Mr Archibald Buchanan of Catrine to take a pair of looms from him, urging him to improve the ma- chine. Mr Buchanan worked these looms for a year, with a view to obtain experience on the subject ; and finding the annoyance of dressing the web in the loom great, he set about contriving a dres- sing-niachine. In this machine he used cylindrical brushes, and succeeded at that time pretty well ; but from the obstinacy of the person engaged to work the machine, and his own want of know- ledge in the art of dressing, he was led to abandon it. He then invented a remarkably neat and effective loom, and in 1806 pro- ceeded to fill a large room with them, and again applied himself to contrive a dressing-machine; he abandoned the cylindrical brushes, and adopted parallel moving ones, similar to those of Rad- cliff and Ross ; and after much experiment with various success, and by the exercise of much ingenuity, and perseverance, he suc- ceeded in effecting a complete machine, and rapidly extending his looms, with the necessary dressing-machines. In the year 1807, he had the first complete work in Britain, in which warping, dres- sing, and weaving by power, were uniformly carried on ; and it may be said that from this establishment emanated the power-loom weaving of Britain. When Mr Buchanan first began the power-loom, from seventy to eighty shots or picks per minute were considered as great speed ; but, from improvements since introduced by Mr Buchanan and others, a speed of a hundred and forty shots per minute is now obtained. About this time, Messrs Foster and Corbet of Glasgow, and the Messrs Crums at Thornlie Bank, began to use power-looms. About the same time, Mr Peter Mansland of Stockport was the first to introduce the power-loom into England on a practical scale. In 1808, power-looms were begun at Deanston ; and there, in 1809, tweels, and in 1810, checks were first woven on power- looms. In 1818 or 1819, Mr William Perry of Glasgow began the weaving of figured goods; and sometime since, lappets were woven by the Messrs Reids of Anderston, Glasgow. The Messrs King were the first persons celebrated for weaving strong shirting, and domestics ; and the Messrs Somerville and Sons have recently in- troduced extensively a very superior manufacture of furniture «tripes and checks, and an infinite variety of similar goods for wo- 154 LANARKSHIRE. men's dresses, shirting, &c. at their new and splendid works in Hutchesontown, Glasgow. Mr William Dunn of Duntocher, the most extensive and successful spinner in Scotland, as an individual has upwards of 600 looms, upon which he executes various very beautiful plain fabrics. The power-loom is daily extending into new fields of manufacture, and it is evident that it will ultimately be the only means of weaving, excepting for fabrics of very com- plex patterns. Steam-looms have increased greatly of late years. In August 1831, the Lancefield Spinning Company employed 635 looms ; and Messrs Johnston and Galbraith, James Finlay and Company, and William Dunn, 2405. These looms on an average weave fourteen yards each per day. Allowing each loom to work 300 days in a year, these four companies would throw off 10,101,000 yards of cloth, which, at the average price of 4]^d. per yard, is L. 189,393, 15s. per annum. The power and hand-looms be- longing to Glasgow amount to 47,127, viz. steam-looms, 15,127, hand-looms in the city and suburbs, 18,537 ; in other towns for Glasgow manufacturers, 13,463. The extension of the use of the power-loom has for the last twenty years borne hard upon the poor hand-loom weavers, who have long suffered from low wages with exemplary patience. The evil was at first aggravated by a natural cause. When the weaver found difficulty in making wages to support his family, the only ap- parent remedy was to get looms for his children, girls as well as boys, and to set them to work also. This, when work was to be had, helped the individual's family, but it brought so much more weaving labour into operation in the trade previously overstocked, that the evil was increased, and every succeeding year the prices of weaving became lower. Many attempts have been made by the hand-loom weavers to have their prices regulated by act of Parlia- ment, or Board of Trade ; and in this they have occasionally been aided by some well-meaning men of rank and influence, but, as might have been expected, without the least success. For why fix the wages or prices of the hand-loom weavers, whilst those of the mason, joiner, farm-servant, &c. are left to be adjusted by the con- stantly operating natural causes springing from demand and supply ? If the prices of weaving were fixed, whenever a period of stagna- tion arrived, the manufacturers would either get weavers to do their work at lower prices clandestinely, or they would cease to manufac- ture at all, thereby throwing a great proportion of the weavers com- GLASGOW. 155 pletely idle. Besides, the hand-weavers had a long period of high wages, ayeraging far above the rates paid for labour in other more la- borious and skilful professions. This arose from the rapid extension of their trade ; and now, in its decline, they must be contented with the lower rate of wages, until their superabundant labour is absorbed by other trades in a state of advancement. This process has been slowly going on within the last few years, and the wages of hand- loom labour are now rather advancing. During the rise of hand- loom weaving in the west of Scotland, the high wages and constant excitement applied by rival manufacturers, and their agents, led to much dissipation, especially among the younger men, and the bulk of the class became prone to dissolute habits ; still, however, many well educated, intelligent, and decent men were to be found amongst them ; now the bulk of the class are sober, frugal, intel- ligent men, which shows that high wages neither lead to decency Dor intelligence, — the sure basis of happiness. It has invariably happened in this manufacturing community, that, when any class of operatives obtained for a time wages much above the other classes, they have in general become dissipated, and they are found lifing in more miserable ill-furnished dwellings, than those having the very lowest rates of wages. Various expedients have from time to time been resorted to by several of the trades, with a view to raise or maintain their wages, such as long apprenticeships, heavy fees, and the like ; and of late, trades unions have been much in vogue, many of them having rules and practices surpassing the closest corporations, and outvieing the fiercest tyranny of the dark- est ages ; and it is strange, that, although these unions have in most of the trades been successively overthrown, still new unions urge the hopeless combat. It bespeaks deplorable ignorance in the mass of the operatives, who have so allowed themselves to be led by a few designing and selfish knaves ; and submit to be urged by the violent wrong-head- ed fools of their order, — a class to be found in all communities. That the schoolmaster has been successfully abroad, there can be no doubt ; and that the working-classes are becoming more intel- ligent, every good man must observe with delight ; but they are as yet in the transition state, at the point when a " little learning is a dangerous thing." They are like raw recruits with good wea- pons in their hands, more likely to wound their neighbours, or themselves, than to make a successful assault on the enemy. Be- fore they can be called intelligent, or find themselves truly power- 156 LANARKSHIRE. ful, they must dip deeper into the pure science of morals, economy, and politics, which they can only accomplish by reading less of the base and selfish ravings of a particular description of the periodi- cal press ; and more of those solid works which calmly, deliberate- ly, and honestly, treat of the great principles of human nature, and the essential conventional laws of human society. Great improve- ment has taken place during the last fifty years in the manners, habits, and intelligence of the middle classes, and there is nothing in the moral or physical circumstances of the working-classes to prevent their making a similar progress, and to their attaining as high a point in the scale of intelligence and moral worth. Even now we find many who have attained both, though in the humblest ranks. Amidst their labours they have quite as much time for reading as the generality of men in the middle classes, and it wants but a resolution, a fashion amongst them, to lead to the happy results. It is the duty, as it is the interest, of all masters, and all minis- ters of religion, and of all good men who are worthy the appella- tion, to promote within their own sphere, by kindly, free, and fre- quent discourse, as well as by pecuniary arrangement, the consum- mation and progress of this most desirable object* * The following note is from the history of the cotton manufacture of Great Bri- tain, just published, by Mr Edward Baines Jun. of Leeds, a work distinguished for great talent aud research, — a work which contains more useful information respect- ing the cotton trade than is to be found in any otiier, — a work which should be in the hands of all those who desire a knowledge of that trade which has tended to raise their country so high in the scale of nations. ** The cotton manufacture of England presents a spectacle unparalleled in the annals of industry, whether we regard the suddenness of its growth, the magnitude which it has attained, or the wonderful inventions to which its progres.* is to be ascribed. Within the memory of many now living, those machines have been brought into use which have made so great a revolution in manufactures, as the art of printing effect- ed in literature. Within the same period, the cotton manufacture of this country has sprung up from insignificance, and has attained a greater extent than the manufac- tures of wool and linen combined, though these have existed for centuries,** " Sixty yearssince, our manufacturers consumed little more than three miluon pouxds of raw cotton annually, the annual consumption is now two hundred and eightt MILLION POUND?, In 1750, the county of Lancaster, thechief seat of the trade, had a po. pulation of only 297,400, in 1831, the number of its inhabitants had swelled to ] ,336,854. A similar increase has taken place in Lanarkshire, the principal seat of the manufacture in Scotland. The families supported by this branch of industry are estimated to comprise a million and a-half of individuals ; and the goods produced> not only furnish a large part of the clothing consumed in this kingdom, but supply nearly one-half of the immense export trade of Britain, find their way into all the markets of the world, and are even destroying in the Indian market, the competition of the ancient manufacture of India itself, the native country of the raw materia), and the earliest seat of the art." " The causes of this unexampled extension of manufacturing industry are to be found in a series of splendid inventions and discoveries, by the combined effect of which, a spinner now produces as much yarn in a day, as by the old processes he could have produced in a year, and cloth which formerly required six or eight months to bleach, is now bleached in a few hours.** GLASGOW. 157 Glasgow was the first place in Britain where inkle wares were manufactured. In 1732, Mr Alexander Harvey, at the risk of his life, brought away from Haerlem, two inkle-looms and a work- man, and was thereby enabled to introduce the manufacture of the article into this city. Soon after this, the Dutchman, considering himself as ill-used by his employer, left Glasgow in disgust, and communicated his art to Manchester. The manufacture of green bottles in Glasgow was introduced, and the first bottle-house erected on the site of the present Ja- maica Street Bottle-house, in 1730. It does not appear that the art of turret bell making was practised in Glasgow till 1735. It was not, however till 1813, when Messrs Stephen Miller and Company made the bell for the steeple of the Gorbals church, that large turret bells were made in Glasgow. Since that period they have made a great number, which are equal in quality and tone to any that ever came from Holland. In the steeple at the cross, there are twenty-eight bells, denominated chimes, diminishing from five feet three inches, to one foot six inches in circumference. The greater part of them have this in- scription. ** Tuned by Amiston and Cummin, 28 bells for Glas- gow, 1735." In 1742, Messrs Ingram and Company fitted up a printfield at Pollockshaws. The first delft manufactory in Scotland was begun in Delftfield near the.Broomielaw, in 1748. Mr Laurence Dinwid- die, formerly Provost, and his brother. Governor Dinwiddie, were two of the first partners. The first shoe-shop in Glasgow was opened in 1749 by Mr William Colquhoun; and in 1773, Mr George Macintosh, em- ploying at that time upwards of 300 shoemakers for the home and export trade, had his shoe-shop in King Street Mr Macintosh had also an agent in Edinburgh, where he employed a number of work- men. At the same period the Glasgow tan-work company em- ployed nearly 300 shoemakers, and to these two houses, the whole export of shoes was confined. The haberdashery business was first introduced into Glasgow about 1750, by Mr Andrew Lockhart But although Mr Lock- hart was the first person who commenced the haberdashery busi- ness in this city, it was not till the autumn of 1787 that it was carried on to any considerable extent. At that period, Mr J. Ross of Carlisle, opened a shop in SpreuU's new " land," and gave the haberdashery business a tone which it had never reached before in 158 LANARKSHIRE. this city. Soon afterwards two of his shopmen, under the firm of Grey and Laurie, commenced business with an extensive stock of goods; and the haberdashery business has rapidly increased in this city since that time. Mr John Blair and Mr James Inglis were the first persons who had front shops for the sale of hats in this city. The shops were both opened in 1756, the former in the Salt Market, and the latter in the Bridgegate. The business of silversmith is of considerable standing in Glas- gow. Mr James Glen, who was a fhagistrate in 1 754, succeeded Mr Robert Luke. When the latter first opened a shop, the trade was but little known in the west of Scotland. In 1775, when Mr Robert Gray, of Blairbeth, commenced business, the following persons had silversmiths' shops here : Messrs Milne and Camp- bell, William Napier, David Warnock, Napier and Bain, James M^Ewan, and Adam Graham. In 1775, the assortment of plate was inconsiderable ; but in 1835, there are shops in Glasgow, which would be considered as valuable in Fleet Street, and elegant in Bond Street. It is not easy to ascertain when the first woollen- draper's shop was opened in Glasgow. In 1761, when Mr Patrick Ewing entered into the trade, it was very limited. The Iron Trade. — Although the cotton manufacture has been the staple trade of Glasgow, and neighbourhood for a long period, the iron manufacture in its various branches would appear to be the one which nature points out as likely to furnish the most ad- vantageous employment of the labour and capital of the district, from the inexhaustible stores of the materials for the making of iron with which it abounds. The local situation of Glasgow, too, is peculiarly favourable for the cheap conveyance of the bulky and hea>7 articles of this manufacture to every quarter of the world. The city is about equidistant from the Atlantic and German seas, and not more than twenty-six miles from either, communicating with the one by the river Clyde, navigable by vessels drawing thirteen feet water, and with the other by the Forth and Clyde Canal, navi- gable by vessels also drawing about thirteen feet water. It stands at the western extremity of the district known by the designation of the Basin of the Clyde, and which, stretching eastward for about twen* ty-six miles, and of considerable breadth, is one uninterrupted field of coal, inters[)ersed with bands of rich black ironstone. Into this mineral field the Monkland Canal penetrates twelve miles, having its western extremity at Glasgow, communicating there with the GLASGOW. 159 Forth and Clyde Canal, into which it is introduced. On a paral- lel line with this water conveyance there is the Gamkirk and Air- drie Railway, on a part of which locomotive engines were intro- duced on the 2d July 1831. The Garion-Gill Railway, which is to be connected with the Garnkirk and Airdrie Railway, and with the Monkland Canal, will carry the communication with the mi- neral field eight miles farther, and it is expected that the great coal field at Coltness will soon be opened up. With these ad- vantages for obtaining the materials and sending the manufactured article to market, Glasgow must become the seat of a great iron manufacture. She has already large establishments for the ma- nufacture of steam-engines and machinery, and for making the machines employed in the processes of cotton-spinning, flax-spin- ning, and wool-spinning. In these works every thing belonging to or connected with the mill-wright or engineer departments of the manufacture, is also fabricated. Having these important and valuable portions of the manufacture already established, and with the advantages which the district possesses for carrying on the trade, there is every reason to expect its rapid growth, and its ex- tension to every article of iron manufacture. Neilsan^s Patent Hot-Blast. — An improvement of national im- portance has lately taken place in the making of iron, of which the following is a description. Mr James B. Neilson, engineer in this dty, obtained patents in this country and France, for an improve- ment in the manufacture of iron, which he designated a Hot- Blast. The patentee drew up a description x)f this improvement, of which the following is an abridgement : In 1824, an iron-maker asked Mr Neilson if he thought it pos- sible to purify the air blown into blast furnaces in a manner simi- lar to that in which carburetted hydrogen gas is purified ; and from this conversation Mr Neilson perceived, that he imagined the pre^ senoe of sulphur in the air to be the cause of blast-furnaces work- ing irregularly, and making bad iron in the summer months. Sub- sequently to this conversation, which had in some measure direct- ed his thoughts to the subject of blast-furnaces, he received infor- mation, that one of the Muirkirk iron-furnaces, situated at a con- siderable distance from the engine, did not work so well as the others; which led him to conjecture, that the friction of the air, in passing along the pipe, prevented an equal volume of the air getting to the distant furnace, with that which reached to the one situated close by the engine ; and he at once came to the conclu- non, thai, by heating the air at the distant furnace, he should in- 160 LANARKSHIRE. crease its volume in the ratio of the known law according to which air and gases expand. Thus, if 1000 cubic feet, say at dO'' of Fahrenheit, were pressed by the engine in a given time, and heat- ed to 600° of Fahrenheit, it would then be increased in volume to 2.1044, and so on for every thousand feet that would be blown into the furnace. In prosecuting the experiments which this idea sug- gested, circumstances, however, convinced him, that heating the air introduced for supporting combustion into air-furnaces would materially increase its efficacy in this respect ; and, with the view of putting his suspicions on this point to the test, he instituted the following experiments : To the nozle of a pair of common smith's bellows he attached a cast-iron vessel heated from beneath in the manner of a retort for generating gas, and to this vessel the blow- pipe by which the forge or furnace was blown was also attached. The air from the bellows having thus to pass through the heated vessel above-mentioned, was consequently heated to a high tem- perature before it entered the forge fire, and the result produced in increasing the intensity of the heat in the furnace was far be- yond his expectation, whilst it made apparent the fallacy of the generally received theory, that the coldness of the air of the at- mosphere in the winter months was the cause of the best iron being then produced. But in overthrowing the old theory, he had also established new principles and facts, in the process of iron-making ; and by the advice and assistance of Mr Charles Macintosh of Cross- basket, he applied for, and obtained, a patent, as the reward of his discovery and improvement. Experiments on the large scale to reduce iron ore in a founder's cupola were forthwith commenced at the Clyde Iron Works, belong- ing to Mr Colin Dunlop, M. P. and were completely successful, in consequence of which, the invention of Mr Neilson w^as immediate- ly adopted at the Calder Iron- Works, the property of Mr William Dixon, where the blast, by being made to pass through two retorts, placed on each side of one of the large furnaces, before entering the furnace, effected an instantaneous change, both in the quantity and quality of iron produced ; and a considerable saving of fuel. The whole of the furnaces at Calder and Clyde Iron- Works were m consequence immediately fitted up on the principle of the hot- blast, and its use at these works continues to be attended with the utmost success. It has also been adopted at Wilsontown and Gartsherrie Works in Scotland, and at several works in England and France. The air, at first raised to 250° of Fahrenheit, produced a saving of three-sevenths of fuel in every ton of pig-iron made ; GLASGOW. 161 and the heating apparatus having since been enlarged, so as to in- crease the temperature of the blast to 600° of Fahrenheit, and up- wards, a proportionate saving of fuel is effected, and an immense additional saving is also acquired by the use of raw coal instead of coke, which may now be adopted by thus increasing the heat of the blast, the whole waste incurred in burning the coal into coke being thus also avoided in the process of iron-making. By the use of this invention, with three-sevenths of the fuel which he formerly employed in the cold air process, the iron-maker is now enabled to make one-third more iron of a superior quality. Were the hot- blast generally adopted, the saving to the country in the article of coal would be immense. In Britain about 700,000 tons of iron are made annually, of which 55,500 tons only are produced in Scot- land. On these 55,500 tons his invention would save, in the pro* cess of manufacture, 222,000 tons of coal annually. In England the saving would be in proportion to the strength and quality of the coal, and cannot be computed at less than 1,320,000 tons annual- ly, and taking the price of coals at the low rate of 4s. per ton, a yearly saving of L. 308,400 Sterling would be effected. Nor are the advantages of this invention solely confined to iron-making. By its use, the founder can cast into goods an equal quantity of iron in greatly less time, and with a saving of nearly half the fuel employed in the cold air process ; and the blacksmith can produce in the same time one-third more work, with much less fuel than he formerly required. In all the processes of metallurgical science, it will be found of the utmost importance in reducing the ores to a metallic state. Iron Works in Scotland in June 1835. Erected in or about 1767, Carron Company, o furnaces, 8,000 t on 1786, Clyde, 4 - 12,500 - 1786, Wilsontown, 1 . 3,000 - 1790, Muirkirk, 2 * 4,000 - 1790, Cleland, 1 . 2,500 . 1790, Devon, 3 . 7,000 - 1605^ Calder, 4 , 12,000 . 1805, SbotU, 1 . 8,000 - 1825, Monkland, - 3 . 8,000 - 1628» Gartsherrie, 3 . 9,000 . 1634, Dundy van, 2 29" • 6,000 - 75,000 1824,qa«Dtityofi; ron made in Scotland at this date, Increase in 11 years, 55,500 19,500 * Exclusive of the above furnaces, there were in preparation in June 1835, six ad- ditioDal, vb. three at Gartsherrie ; one at MonkUnd ; one at Calder ; and one at Dun- dyvan. Tbeac six fiunaces will make 13,000 tons of iron annually. 162 LANARKSHIRE. These works are all in the neighbourhood of Glasgow excepting five, and none of them arq thirty miles distant from that city* Pre* viously to the use of Neilson*s hot-blast, 6000 tons of iron were made at Clyde Iron- Works in a year. In the formation of each ton of iron, eight tons of coal, and fifteen cwt of limestone were required. In 1833, when the hot-))last was applied, the same steam-engine made 12,500 tons of iron, each ton requiring only three tons of coal, and eight cwt. of limestone. The whole of the above iron-works are using the hot-blast in all their furnaces, ex- cepting the Carron Company, who have only yet taken out a license for one of their furnaces. The license is at the rate of Is. per ton. The best coal for making iron at the above works does not ave- rage above 4s. per ton. Supply of Coals in Glasgow. — In 1831, Dr Cleland ascertained from coal-masters and authentic documents, that the supply of coals came from thirty-seven coal pits ; that the quantity brought to Glasgow was 561,049 tons, and of that quantity 124,000 were ex- ported, thereby leaving 437,049 tons for the use of families, and public works, in the city and suburbs. The additional consump- tion since the above statement was made, may be fairly estimated at ten per cent, on the home consumption, and five per cent, on the ex- port, which makes the quantity brought to Glasgow in 1835 amount to 610,953 tons. The following is the average prices of coals de- livered in quantities in Glasgow, during a period of eight years. In 1821, - - 86. 4d. to 9s. 4d. per ton. 1822, - - 7s. lid. to 8s. lid. 1823, - - 78. 6d. to 8s. 6d. 1824, - - 7s. lid. to 8s. lid. 1825, - - lis. Id. to 12s. Id. 1826, - - 9s. 7d. to 10s. 7d. 1827, - - 6s. 8d. to 7s. 8d. 1828, - - 5s. lOd. to 6s. lOd. There has been no variation in the price of coals from 1828 to 1835. The best hard splint is laid down at the steam-boat quay at 6s. 3d. per ton. In 1835, Cannel coal from Lesmahagow, for the formation of gas, is laid down at the gas works at 16s. per ton ; ditto from pits in the neighbourhood of Glasgow, 10s. 6d. per ton ; average on the quantity used, 14s. per ton. The manufacture of flint-glass or crystal was introduced here by Messrs Cookson and Company of Newcastle in 1777, and is now carried on to a very considerable extent. Soon after that period, a number of chemical works were erected in the neighbourhood of this city. The Chamber of Commerce and Manufactures was in- OLASGOW. 163 §titii(ed here in ITSd, under the auspices of Mr Patrick Colqu- houn, at that time an eminent merchant in Glasgow. Pullicate hankerchiefs were begun to be made about the year 1785. • The business of a regular distiller is but of recent date in Scot- land. Mr WiUiam Menzies of Gorbals, Glasgow, was the first person in the west of Scotland who had a licensed still. He open- ed his distillery in Kirk Street in 1786, and his license was the fourth in Scotland ; the houses of Messrs Stein, Haig, and another, having alone preceded him. At that period, the duties amounted to about one penny per gallon, and the best malt spirit was sold at ds. per gallon* In 1800, Messrs Tennant, Knox, and Company, established a chemical work at St Rollox ; now carried on under the firm of Charles Tennant and Company, for the manufacture of sulphuric acid, chloride of lime, soda, and soap. This manufactory, the most extensive of any of the kind in Europe, covers ten acres of ground, and within its walls there are buildings which cover 27,340 square yards of ground. In the premises, there are upwards of 100 furnaces, retorts, or fire-places. In one apartment there are platina vessels to the value of L. 7000. In this great concern, upwards of 600 tons of coal are consumed weekly. Messrs Henry Monteith, Bogle, and Company, established a manu£u:tory for bandana handkerchiefs in 1802, now carried on under the firm of Henry Monteith and Company. This respect- able firm also carry on the business of cotton-spinning and calico- printing. Their establishment at Blantyre is most extensive; while their splendid works at Barrowfield are probably unequalled in the kingdom. With the exception of an attempt on the conti**- nent, which proved unsuccessful, the manufacture of bandanas has been chiefly confined to this city. The manufacture of silk is but in its infancy here; but the throwing and other departments of the trade bid fair for prosperity. GaS'Light Company. — A company for lighting Glasgow with gas was incorporated by act of Parliament in 1817, with a capi- tal of L. 40,000, which has been increased from time to time to Im 150,000. The first street lamp was lighted with gas on the 5th September 18ia The works are on a large scale, and, including subsidiary esta- blishments in different parts of the town, occupy an area of 14,831 square yards. The principal establishment now forms a square. 164 LANARKSHIRE. of which one side is occupied by retorts, condensers, and other ap* paratus ; and round the other three are ranged sheds, under which cannel coals are stored, to preserve them from moisture. These sheds are calculated to contain 6000 tons ; and to show at any time how much coal is on hand, they are divided into compart- ments, each containing a certain known quantity. The company have at present 152 retorts, each capable of making 5000 cubic feet of gas in twenty-four hours. Of these, 105 are required in winter, and 30 in summer. The gas holders are of a very large size, and are 8 in number, viz. 4 at the works, and 4 in different parts of the town. By this arrangement, the pressure of gas is equalised in all portions of the city and suburbs. Cast-iron pipes to convey the gas are laid on both sides of the streets, under the foot pavements, so as not to interfere with the water pipes, and extend to more than 110 miles in length. In generating gas for the supply of Glasgow, upwards of 9000 tons of coals are an- nually consumed. The coke which remains after extracting gas from cannel coal, and the tar deposited on the cooling of the gas, are used for heating the retorts, and are found to be very economi- cal fuel. Nor is the tar the only one of the liquid products that is turned to profitable account The ammoniacal water is sold to be used in making cudbear dye, and the naphtha, in dissolving ca- outchouc, for manufacturing water-proof cloth. The solution of lime, after having been employed for purifying the gas, is allowed to stand until the heavier part is precipitated ; this is then collected and sold for manure, and the liquor which remains (none of the gas-work refuse is allowed to run into the common sewers of the city) is evaporated under the great bars of the retort furnace, thereby increasing the draught, and, consequently, the intensity of the fire. As at other establishments, the gas is purified with lime ; but in addition to this process, it is made to pass through a solution of sulphate of iron, by which it is very much improved in purity. After being purified, it passes through a metre of a very large size, made by Mr Crosley of London, the patentee. Here the gas manufactured is measured, and by a beautiful contrivance, called a tell-tale, which acts by the combined motions of the me- tre on a common clock, the quantity passing through each hour of the day or night is registered ; and the extent of any irregula- rity in the workmen, as well as the time at which it happened, is at once detected. The company have been peculiarly fortunate GLASGOW. 165 in procuring the services of Mr iJames B. Neilson, engineer, pa- tentee of the iron hot^blast. To the scientific attainments of this distinguished manager, the company are chiefly indebted for their uncommon success, and for the most perfect and beautiful esta- blishment of the kind in the kingdom. In May 1835, the directors of the Gas Company drew up, printed, and circulated a short history of their affairs, of which the following is an abstract. In the act of 1825, the company became bound that the dividends should not exceed 10 per cent, on their stock per annum. From the commencement of the undertaking, they supplied the city and suburbs of Glasgow with gas, at prices below what were charged in any other city in the empire. In 1818, the period at which the lighting of the city commen- ced, the charge for a single jet to eight o'clock was 12s. per annum. Since that period, the company have been enabled to make four successive reductions of the rates. In' 1819, they reduced the fates L. 1800 per annum; in 1822, L. 1200; in 1830, L. 2300; and in 1833, L. 1600. The charge for a single jet lighted to eight o'clock, is now reduced to 6s. 6d. per annum. The aggregate amount of the rates paid by the consumers in 1835 is L. 30,000, and the number of payers about 10,000. Chemical Works. — The process for dyeing Turkey or Adria- oople red, was first introduced into Britain by Mr George Mac- intosh, at a dye-house which he established at Glasgow. The im- mense importance since attained by this branch of commerce in Britain owes its origin entirely to this circumstance. Mr George Macintosh also commenced the manufacture of the dye stuff called cudbear, in Glasgow. This is a modification of the Florentine manufacture of orcella, or orseille, and is still car- ried on, on a large scale, by Mr Charles Macintosh, the son of the first named gentleman. In the year 1786, Mr Charles Macintosh introduced from Hol- land, the manufacture of sugar of lead, saccharum satumiy or ace- tate of lead. This article had previously been obtained by im- portation from Holland ; but in the course of a very short time, this state of matters was reversed, by Mr Macintosh exporting ihe ar- ticle in considerable quantities to Rotterdam, the place from which a knowledge of the manufacture was first obtained. Independent of its use in medicine, sugar of lead is employed on the large scale in calico-printing, in the formation of the mordant called red co- lour Uquor; in which process a double chemical decomposition is LANARK. M 166 LANARKSHIRK. effected by the addition of the acetate of lead, to an aqueous solu- tion of alum (sulphate of alumina.) Sulphate of lead is thus pre- cipitated, whilst acetate of alumina, constituting the mordant, re- mains in solution. About 1789, Mr Macintosh modified this pro- cess by the substitution of acetate of lime, instead of acetate of lead. A similar decomposition, affording acetate of alumina in solution, in this instance takes place. By this process the selling price of the red colour liquor became lowered from three shillings per gal- lon, to sixpence, and under, per gallon. This process was never patented, and as it speedily became appropriated by others, the inventor derived scarcely any advantage from it. Many thousand pounds Sterling were annually expended on malt and barley, in the manufacture of saccharum satumi^ at Glasgow, between the year 1786, the period of the first introduction of the manufacture, and 1 820, when pyroligneous acid prepared from wood was substituted for the malt vinegar, previously employed in this process. In 1793, Mr Charles Macintosh introduced at Pollockshaws, numerous and important improvements in the art of dyeing fancy muslins, and in 1795, he established the first alum-work erected in Scotland, at Hurlet, in Renfrewshire, about six miles from Glasgow. Two other alum-works at Campsie, and in the parish of Baldernock in Stirlingshire, were shortly after established through his interven- tion, which works now yield an annual supply of 2000 tons of alum. The decomposed aluminous schistus found in the coal wastes is the material employed at these places in the manufacture of alum, — the price of which has been reduced from L. 25 per ton, at which it was when these works were established, to Lr 12 and under per ton. Remarks upon the influence exerted by this cause, on the various branches of dyeing, calico-printing, tanning, and paper- making, — in all of which the use of alum is indispensable, — would be superfluous. In 1799, Mr Charles Macintosh pre'pared for the first time chloride of lime, in the dry form, which has since been denominat- ed bleaching salt, or bleaching powder. This process he patented, and its manufacture, on a large scale, was carried on by Mr Mac<^ intosh and Mr Charles Tennant of St RoUox for many years. Mr Tennant had previously obtained a patent for the preparation of chloride of lime in the liquid state, denominated bleaching liquor, of which he was the inventor. The immense chemical works at St RoUox, since conducted on a scale of such magnitude and per- fection by Mr Tennant, originated in this partnership. In 1808, Mr Charles Macintosh established at the alum-works at GLASGOW. 167 Campsie, the manufacture of Prussian blue, triple-prussiate of po- tass, and iron or ferro-prussiate of potash. Soon afterwards he ap- plied, for the first time, for the purpose of dyeing woollen, silk, and cotton, the salt termed triple-prussiate of potash, or hydro-ferro- cjanic acid. This salt had only previously been known as a che- mical reagent, prepared from Prussian blue, and selling at from 56. to 6s. per ounce. Its use as a dye stuff, in substitution for in- digo, is now universal over Europe ; the price being reduced to about 2d. per ounce, or 2s. 6d. per pound. This substance is pro- cured from the horns and hoofs of animals, as also the waste parings and clippings of horns and whalebone ; and for these substances, and pot and pearl ashes, also employed in the process, a great an- nual outlay takes place. The process for rendering fabrics of silk, woollen, cotton, or linen, waterproof, by means of a layer of caoutchouc, or Indian rubber, previously rendered liquid by solution in naphtha, being in- troduced between two separate pieces of cloth, which are subse- quently thus made to adhere perfectly and permanently together by pressure, is also the invention of Mr Charles Macintosh. He for some time carried on the manufactory of these articles at Glas- gow; but some time ago the business was transferred to Manchester. Mr Macintosh obtained a patent for this process. Previous to the intro- duction of this manufacture, the importation of caoutchouc into Bri- tain was merely trifling, — its use being limited almost entirely to stationary purposes ; now it is imported in large quantities ; and, in order to supply the demand for it, it is understood, that the pro- prietors of several West India estates are planting for cultivation, the different species of Irtropha elastica and Urceola elastica^ from which it is procured in the state of a milky juice, which coagulates on exposure to the atmosphere. The process for converting iron into steel, by submitting it, in- closed in close vessels, to the action of carburetted hydrogen gas, is also the invention of Mr Charles Macintosh. This is also a patent process. In 1823, the Royal Society of London marked their sense of Mr Charles Macintosh's services in the cause of science, by elect- ing him a Fellow. The calico-printing works of Messrs James and John Kibble and Company of Glasgow, on the banks of the Leven, are allowed to be the most complete of any in the kingdom. Cashmere Yam. — In 1830, the weaving of Cashmere shawls in this country had become so important a branch of trade, as to in- 168 LANARKSHIRE. duce the Board of Trustees for the Encouragement of Arts and Ma- nufactures in Scotland to offer a premium of L. 300 Sterling to the first person who should establish the spinning of Cashmere wool upon the French principle in this country. Up to that time the French had exclusively enjoyed the advantages of that trade ; and all Cashmere yarns used in this country in the manufacture of shawls and other fabrics had to be imported from France. The offer of this handsome premium, together with the other advantages which the' carrying on of the trade held out, induced Captain Charles Stuart Cochrane, of the Royal Navy, to attempt, whilst in Paris, to find out the secret of this manufacture, which, after many difficul- ties and much delay, he at last accomplished ; and, in 1831, he took out patents for the introduction of this kind of spinning to the three kingdoms. In the autumn of that year, he prevailed on Messrs Henry Houldsworth and Sons, of Glasgow, to purchase his patents, and they accordingly commenced the spinning of Cashmere yarn. After many difficulties, they succeeded, in 1832, in making better yam than the French, and in the following year received from the Board of Trustees the L. 300 Sterling as the premium due for the establishing of the spinning of Cashmere yarn in this country. Since then, the manufacture has gone on but slowly, though gra- dually increasing in extent, and the day !s not far distant when it may be hoped that the beauty of the goods made from Cashmere yarn will be duly appreciated by our ladies. One thing is grati- fying, that, notwithstanding the cheapness of labour in France, and the long experience the French have had in this manufacture, we are quite capable at this moment of successfully competing with them in the market, although the French yarns can be admitted free of duty. Establishment of Merino Yam Spinning in Scotland. — At the same time that the late Captain C. S. Cochrane was engaged in Paris in finding out the manufacture of Cashmere yarn, his atten- tion was attracted by the superiority of French merino dresses over those made in this country ; and on inquiry he found that the peculiar manner in which the French spun the merino yarn was the prin- cipal cause of this difference. Captain Cochrane, accordingly, got all the information he could possibly obtain respecting this manu- facture, and in 1333 established in Glasgow this peculiar mode of spinning merino yarn on the French principle. The Board of Trus- tees offered a premium of L. 300 Sterling to the introducer and establisher of this manufacture; which premium Captain Cochrane accordingly received in 1834, — his merino yarn being pronounced GLASGOW. 169 equal, if not superior, to the best French yarns. After this satis- factory result, the business was extended to meet the demand of the trade ; but, unfortunately for the spirited introducer, death cut him short before his plans were fully brought to a profitable result The business is in the meantime carried on by Messrs Hen- ly Houldsworth adlf Sons, for the benefit of Captain Cochrane's partner; and from the soft and beautiful goods which can be made froni this yarn, almost rivalling the Cashmere itself, there seems little doubt but that in a short time, when it becomes well known, the merinos of this country will successfully compete with those of the French. Timber Trcuie. — The merchants of Glasgow send numerous ships to the East and West Indies, to America, and to the continent of Eu- rope ; but there is one firm which merits particular attention. Messrs Pollock, Gilmour and Company, who are chiefly engaged in the North American timber trade, have eight difierent establishments that ship annually upwards of six millions cubic feet of timber ; to cut and to collect which, and to prepare it for shipment, requires upwards of Fifteen thousand men, and six hundred horses AND oxen in constant employment ; and for the accommodation of their trade, they are owners of twenty-one large ships, the register tonnage of which is twelve thousand and five tons, navigated by five hundred and two seamen, carrying each trip upwards of twenty thousand tons of timber at 40 cubic feet per ton. All of which ships make two, and several of them three voyages annually. It may be truly said that this establishment is unequalled in Europe. Messrs James and William Campbell and Company were the first in this city to occupy as a warehouse for the retail of soft goods, the upper flats of a tenement, instead of shops on the ground or street floor, and although the practice of having retail places of business on the second floor has since become pretty general in Glasgow, it is still a peculiarity of this city. The Messrs Camp- bells, too, were the first who successfully resisted the practice, which had previously obtained very generally in Glasgow, in their line of business, of what in Scotch phrase, is termed " prigging/' or de- viating from the first price asked for goods sold in retaiL They commenced business in 1817, in the Trades Land, head of Salt- market Street, from whence they removed in 1823, to premises built by themselves, and which they still occupy in Candleriggs Street. This establbbment, now embracing the wholesale as well as the 170 LANARKSHIRE. retail business, the largest of the kind in the King's dominions out of London, contains 30,003 square feet of flooring. In these premises the public are supplied with nearly every description of goods of woollen, linen, cotton, and silk manufacture, and the ar- rangements are such that purchasers of the smallest quantities for private use are equally attended to and accorifinodated with those who make the most extensive purchases, for either home or foreign consumpt. Upwards of eighty persons are employed in the sale- departments of these warehouses, and the following is a note of the respective amounts of six years sales, which not only shows the progressive increase of the Messrs Campbells' business, but exhibits a fair criterion of the rapid increase, and commercial im- provement of the city of Glasgow. In 1818, . L. 41,022 (5 4 In 1830, . L. 250,899 9 6 1824, . 106,284- 2 1 1832, . 312,207 5 8 1827, . 183,385 6 10 1834, . 423,021 4 7 Besides these gross sales the company manufacture to the value of from L. 70,000 to L. 80,000 annually of the goods thus dis- posed of, giving employment from this department to nearly 2000 people. It may likewise be remarked, that, although se- veral London houses turn a greater sum annually, in consequence of dealing largely in the more valuable descriptions of silk goods, it is understood that the Messrs Campbell serve as great a num- ber of customers as any of those highly respectable metropolitan establishments. The Tea Trade. — The Camden was the first vessel unconnect- ed with the East India Company which brought a cargo of tea direct from Canton to Britain. She was consigned by China mer- chants to Mr William Mathieson of Glasgow, and her full cargo of Bohea, Congou, Cape Congou, Campio, and Souchong, was sold in the Royal Exchange sale-room of this city on the 14th of No- vember 1834. A number of Ix)ndon and Edinburgh merchants purchased at the sale. The whole was sold at high prices. V. — Civic Economy. Literature. — From the commercial enterprise which engages the time and attention of its inhabitants, this city cannot boast of a literary character. There are many individuals, however, of cultivated minds and extensive attainments, some of whom have formed themselves into societies for the promotion of literature and science. About the middle of the last century a literary so- ciety was established, consisting chiefly of the professors and cler- gymen of the city and neighbourhood, and reckoned amongst its GLASGOW. 171 distiDguished members, Doctors Adam Smith, Trail, and Reid, and Mr John Millar, the celebrated Professor of Law. A litera- ry and commercial society was formed about the beginniiig of llie present century, and is composed of a number of frendemen who meet for the discussion of literary and ecNnmercial topics. Dur- ing the twenty-seven years in which records have been kept, up- wards of 200 essays have been read by the society. University, — The University of Glasgow is a corporate body, consisting of a Chancellor, Rector, Dean, Principal, with Profes- sors and Students. In 1451, Nicolas V., a pope distinguished by his talents and erudition, and particularly by his munificent patronage of Grecian literature, after having composed the great western schism, which for more than half a century had distracted the states of Christen- dom, was pleased to issue a Papal Edict, or Bull, establishing a shidium generale^ or university in the city of Glasgow ; the situa- tion of which is described in the narrative as being, by the salubri- ty of the climate, and the abundance of all the necessaries of life, peculiarly adapted for such an institution. The instrument bears that James II. King of Scotland had applied to the See of Rome for this grant ; for although an independent sovereign might claim the power of erecting universities within his own dominions, he could not confer on the licentiates and doctors, who derived their qualifications from such seminaries, the privilege of acting as teachers and regents in all the seats of general study througho ut the bounds of the Catholic church, without any examination or approbation, in addition to that which they received when they ob- tained their academical degrees. This faculty was bestowed by apostolical authority on the graduates of the University of Glasgow, along with all other liberties, immunities, and honours, enjoyed by the masters, doctors, and students, in the University of Bologna. The University at first had received no endowments, and was for years possessed of no property except the University purse, into which were put some small perquisites on the conferring of degrees, and the patronage of two or three small chaplainaries. At first the University had no buildings of its own. It held its meetings in the chapter-house of the Blackfriars, or in the cathedral. But these defects were in some measure supplied by the liberality of James first Lord Hamilton, an ancestor of the noble house of Hamilton, who, in the year 1459, gave to the Principal, and other Regents of the College of Arts, for their use and accommodation, 172 LANARKSHIRE. a tenement with its pertinents, in the High Street of Glasgow, to the north of the Blackfriars, together with four acres of land in the Dow-hill. In the deed, the noble donor required the Princi- pal and Regents, on their first admission, to declare on oath, that they would commemorate James Lord Hamilton, and Lady Eu- phemia, his spouse, the Countess of Douglas, as the founders of the college. Amongst other benefactors of the college, distin- guished by their donations, chiefly for the support of poor students, were Ann Duchess of Hamilton, Robina Countess of Forfar, William Earl of Dundonnell, the Duke of Chandos, the Duke of Montrose, Leighton, Archbishop of Glasgow, Boulter, Bishop of Armagh, Mr Snell, Dr Williams, Dr Walton, Mr Zachary Boyd, and Dr William Hunter. The Reformation produced great disorder in the University, its members being clergymen of the Catholic persuasion, and its chief support being derived from the church. In 1577, James VI. pre- scribed particular rules with regard to the college, and the forma- tion of its government, and made a considerable addition to its funds. The charter by which the King made these regulations, and gave that property, still continues to be the magna charta of the college, and is known by the name of Nova Erectio, The business of the University is transacted in three distinct meetings, viz. those of the Senate, the Comitia, and the Faculty. The meeting of senate consists of the Rector, the Dean, the members of Faculty, and the other Professors. The Rector pre- sides in this meeting, except when affairs are managed, for which the Dean is competent. Meetings of the senate are held for the election and admission of the Chancellor and Dean of Faculty, for the admission of the Vice- Chancellor and Vice- Rector, for electing a representative to the General Assembly, for conferring degrees, and for the management of the libraries, and other mat- ters belonging to the University. The constituent members of the comitia are, the Rector, the Dean, the Principal, the Profes- sors, and the matriculated students of the University.* The Rec- • The royal visitation of the University, in 1717 and 1718, deprived the Students of the right of voting in the election of the Rector, and appointed the election to be made by the plurality of votes in a University meeting, composed of the Chancellor, Dean, and Principal, (the office of Rector being vacant,) and all the Professors and Regents ; the said members being restricted to a man of probity and judgment, of known affection to the government in Church and State, who is not a minister of the gospel, nor bears any other office in the University, It is believed that the re- gulations of this visitation originated in some feelings and jealousies connected with the political circumstances of the country, and had reference to the wish of persons attached to the interests of the Stuart family, being raised to situations of importance and influence. GLASGOW. 173 tor or Vice- Rector presides in this meeting. Meetings of the c(h mitia are held for the election and admission of the Rector, for hearing public disputations in any of the faculties, previously to the conferring of degrees, for hearing the inaugural discourses of the Principal and Professors, previously to their admission to their respective offices, and for promulgating the laws of the University, and other acts of the University and College courts. The meeting of (acuity, or college meeting, consists of the Principal, the Pro- fessors of Divinity, Church History, Oriental Languages, Natural Fhflosophy, Moral Philosophy, Mathematics, Logic, Greek, Hu- manity, Civil Law, Medicine, Anatomy, and Practical Astronomy. The Principal presides in this meeting, and has a casting but not t deliberative vote. The members of faculty have the administra- tion of the whole revenue and property of the College, consisting of heritage, feus, teinds, and bequests, with the exception of a few particular bequests, in which the Rector and other officers of the University are specially named. They have likewise the right of exercising the patronage of eight professorships, vested in the Col- lege. They present a minister to the parish of Govan, and have the gift of various bursaries. In the exercise, however, of one of their privileges, viz. the election of professors, the Rector and Dean of Faculty have a vote. The officer of highest dignity in the University is the Chancellor^ who is elected by the members of senate. He is the head of the University, and by himself or deputy has the sole privilege of con- ferring academical degrees upon persons found qualified by the Senatus Academicus. The office of Chancellor is held during life. Thei2ector is annually elected by the Dean, the Principal, the Pro- fessors, and the matriculated students. The electors are divided, according to their respective birth-places, into four nations, as be- fore-mentioned. As the majority of the members of each nation constitutes one vote, in case of an equality, the Rector going out of office has the casting vote ; and in his absence, the Rector imme- diately preceding. The election is always held on the 15th of No- Tember, except when it falls upon Sunday, and then the election is held on the following day, and the same person is generally re- The royal visitation of 1727, prescribed a number of regulations which have been in force erer since. JtUer alia, the right of electing a Rector was declared to be in •U the matriculated Members, Moderators or Masters, and students. Some altera- tioos were made on the distribution of the supposts into nations. The Natio Glot- tku nv€ Clydtadaliae and the Natio dicta Rothsay, continued as originally settled. But hito the Natio Laudoniana sive T/tevidalia: were introduced, all matriculated Biembers firom England, and the British Colonics ; and the Natio Albanite live Trans- Mthiana, vas to include all foreigners. 174 LANARKSHIRE. elected for a second year. It is the duty of the Rector to preserve the rights and privileges of the University, to convoke those meet- ings in which he presides, and with his assessors, whom he himself appoints, to exercise that academical jurisdiction amongst the stu- dents themselves, or between the students and citizens, which is bestowed upon most of the universities of Europe. The Dean of Faculties is elected by the senate. This office is held for two years, and by virtue of it, he is entitled to give directions with re- gard to the course of study, and to judge together with the Bectoi^ Principal, and Professors, of the qualiBcations of those who desire to be created Masters of Arts, Doctors of Divinity, &c The foun- dation of the office of Principal, almost coeval with that of the Uni- versity, was confirmed by James VI. in 1577. It is in the appoint- ment of the King. The Principal has the ordinary superintendence of the deportment of all members of the University, and is Prima" rius Professor of Divinity. The Professors of the University of Glasgow may be distributed according to the departments of know- ledge to which they are respectively assigned, into four distinct fa- culties ; those of arts, theology, law, and medicine. The Faculty of Arts comprehends the Professors of Latin or Hu- manity, Greek, Logic, Ethics, Natural Philosophy, Mathematics, Practical Astronomy, and Natural History. To this faculty maybe added the Professors of Mathematics, Astronomy, and Natural His- tory. The faculty of Theology includes, besides the Principal, who, in right of his office, is first Professor of Divinity, three other Pro- fessorships, those of Divinity, Church History, and Oriental Lan- guages. The faculty of Law consists of a single Professorship, that of Civil Law. The faculty of Medicine comprehends the Professorships of Anatomy, Medicine, Materia Medica, Surgery, Midwifery, Che- mistry, and Botany. The Professors of Greek, Logic, Ethics, and Natural Philosophy, whose chairs were the earliest endowed in thfe University, are denominated Regents, and enjoy in right of their re- gency certain trifling privileges beyond their brother professors. The Regius Professors are those whose chairs have been recently founded, endowed, and nominated by the Crown, and they are mem- bers of Senate only, not of the Faculty of the college, viz. natural his- tory, surgery, midwifery, chemistry, botany, and materia medica.* • Office-Bearen and Professor t in 1835. Inducted Inducted /. Faculty of Arts, 1781. Chancellor, Duke of Montrose. 1831. Humanity, W. M. Ramsay, M. A. 1834. Lord Rector, Lord Stanley. 1821. Greek, Sir D. K. Sandford,D.C.L. 1834. DeanofFaculties, Sir A. Campbell. 1827. Logic, Robert Buchanan, M. A. 1823. Principal, D. Macfarlan, D. D. 1797. Moral Philosophy, J. Mylne, M. A. GLASGOW. 175 The University Library was founded in the fifteenth century. It contains an extensive and valuable collection of books, amongst which are many beautiful editions of the classics. It is always in- creasing by donations of copies of every new work published in dus country, as well as by books purchased by the fees received at matriculation, assisted by fees received from graduates, and by aD annual payment from all students, who are entitled to the use of the library under certain limitations. A small botanic garden adjoining the college was prepared for the use of the lecturer in botany in 1753; but, having from various causes, become unfit for its purposes, a very valuable botanical gar- den, consisting of eight acres, was formed in the neighbourhood of the city, by the citizens of Glasgow. The University subscribed L2000 towards its erection, for the privilege of their Professor of Botany lecturinginthe hall in the garden, and Government has sub- sequently given a similar sum in support of it This garden, which las opened in the spring of 1818, is, for the variety of rare plants from almost every part of the world, not exceeded by any botanical garden in the kingdom. The founder of the Hunterian Museum was the celebrated Wil- liam Hunter, M. D. who was born in the parish of East Kilbride, in the neighbourhood of Glasgow, in 1710. By his will in 1781, he be- queathed to the Principal and Professors of the College, his splen- did collection of books, coins, paintings, anatomical preparations, &c and appropriated L. 8000 for the erection of a building for their reception. The collection is valued at L. 65,000, viz. medals, L 30,000, books, L. 15,000, pictures, L. 10,000, miscellaneous, L 10,000. The collection has been considerably increased of late years. The public are admitted every lawful day, on payment of Is. There are twenty-seven bursaries connected with the College, ▼arying from L. 5 to L. 40. They are held from four to six years. Besides these, there are two very valuable exhibitions. In the year Mueted Inducted III. Faculty of Laxv. 1803. Natural Philosophy, William 1801. Civil Law, R. Davidson, Advocate. Meiklebam, LL. D. IV. Faculty of Mcd'icinr, 1831. Mathematics, J. ITiomsonjLL.D. 1790. Anatomy, James Jeffray, M. D. 1803. Practical Astronomy, James Cou- 1827. Theory and Practice of Medicine, per, D.D. Charles Badham, M. D. 1829.» Natural History, William Cou- 1815. • Surgery, John Burns, M. D. per, M. D. 1834.» Midwifery, W. Cumin, M. D. //. Faadty of Theology. 18ia • Chemistry, T. Thomson, M. D. 1814. DiTinity, S. MacGill, I). D. 1821. • Botany, Wm. Jackson Hooker, 1807. Church History, William Mac- LL.U. Turk, D. D. 1 83 1.» Materia Medica, In. Couper,M.D. 1831. Oricnul Languages, W. Fleming, 1828. Diseases of the Eye, William Mac- D, I). kenzie, M. D. I>ecturer. • Those with an asterisk are Regius Professors. 176 LANARKSHIRE. 1688, Mr John Snell, with a view to support Episcopacy in Scot- land, devised to trustees a considerable estate near Leamington, in Warwickshire, for educating Scotch students at Baliol College, Oxford. By the rise in the value of land, and the improvements which have from time to time been made on that estate, the fund now affords about L. 130 per annum to each of ten exhibitioners. Another foundation, by John Warner, Bishop of Rochester, of L.20 per annum, to each of four Scotch students of the same college, during their residence at Oxford, is generally given to the Glasgow exhibitioners ; so that four of them have a stipend of L. 150 per an- num. The exhibitions are tenable for ten years, but vacated by mar- riage, or on receiving preferment of a certain amount. The right of nomination belongs to the Principal and Professors of the faculty. Candidates, to be eligible to Snell's exhibitions, must first be na- tives of Scotland, which the master of Baliol requires to be proved by the production of an extract from the parish register of births; secondly, they must have attended as public students at least two sessions at the University of Glasgow, or one session there, and two at some other Scottish university. Warner's exhibitions are in the gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and Bishop of Roches- ter, who usually nominate on the recommendation of the master of Baliol College. Amongst the distinguished persons of several pro- fessions who have been educated on Mr Snell's foundation, may be mentioned Dr John Douglas, Bishop of Salisbury; Dr Adam Smith; and Dr Matthew Baillie. This University has had from its origin men of the highest talent and literary eminence among its professors and office-bearers. The names of Melville, Baillie, Leishman, Burnet, Simpson, Hutchi- son, Black, CuUen, Adam Smith, Reid, Miller, and Richardson, are conspicuous; and the names of Henry Dundas, Edmund Burke, Sir James Mackintosh, and other distinguished individuals, are to be found in the list of rectors. Education. — The attention which has been paid to education in Scotland for centuries past has been acknowledged all over Europe. Amidst all the tumult and violence of civil contention, and at a time when the very existence of the Presbyterian church was at stake, the subject of education and of schools was never overlooked. By act 43 Geo. HI. cap. 54, the salaries of parochial school- masters, whose schools are not entirely confined in royal burghs, are to be fixed, from and after the 11 th September 1803, at a sum of from 300 to 400 merks Scots, bv the minister, and the heritors whose lands in the parish amount to L. 100 Scots. In twenty-five 4 GLASGOW. 177 years after the above period, or such after period as the salary shall be fixed, these heritors and minister are to modify a new sa- lary, according to the average price of oatmeal, to be ascertained by the Exchequer, of the value of from one and a-half to two chal- ders, and so on from twenty-five years to twenty-five years ; and when there is not a proper school-house, a house for the school- master, and a garden for him, containing at least one-fourth of a Scotch acre, the heritors of the parish must provide these.* Grammar'SchooL — This seminary is of remote antiquity, but, like some similar institutions of long standing, little is known of its eariy history. There was a grammar-school at Glasgow in the early part of the fourteenth century. It depended immediately on the cathedral church, and the chancellor of the diocese had not only the appointment of the masters, but also the superintendence of whatever related to education in the city. The grammar-school eoDtinued to be a distinct establishment after the erection of the University, and considerable care appears to have been taken to supply it with good teachers. In 1494, Mr Martin Wan, Chan- cellor of the Metropolitan Church of Glasgow, brought a complaint before Archbishop Blackadder against one Dwne, a priest of the diocese, for teaching scholars in grammar, and children in inferior branches, by himself apart, openly and publicly in the said city, without the allowance, and in opposition to the will of the Chan- cellor. The bishop having heard parties, and examined witnesses, decided, with the advice of his chapter, and of the rector and clerks of the University, in favour of the Chancellor. As far back as the sixteenth century, the situation of the master of the grammar-school was highly respectable ; he was to be found among the non-reffen^ fei, nominated to elect the Rector, and to examine the graduates. On the 28th of October 1595, the Presbytery directed the Regents in the college " to try the Irish scholars in the grammar-school, tuching the heads of religion." At that period the school met at five o'clock in the morning. Mr John Blackburn, who was mas- ter of the grammar-school, and Lord Rector of the University in 1592, 1593, resigned his mastership in 1615, on being appointed minister of the Barony Church. • The celebrated Dr South has, with much ability, enforced the great utility to be derired from attention to schoolmasters. *• There is no profession,'* he observes, "which has, or can have, a greater influence on the public. An able and well prin- fipkd schoolmaster is one of the most meritorious subjects in any prince's dominions; ■Mi sehoolinasters are the great depositaries and trustees of the peace of the nation, ^^*^S i^ growing hopes and fears in their hands. Nay, schoolmasters have a more pon eifu l influence upon the spirits of men than preachers themselves; for they Ittfc to deal with younger and tender minds, and consequently have the advantage of the first and deepest impression upon them." 178 LANARKSHIRE. The records of the town-council have been searched in vain for the plan or system by which the school was conducted prior to the year 1707. Since that period, it has undergone various changes in the management and system of education. Sometimes the school was under the control of a rector, and at other times the office was laid aside. Sometimes the course consisted of five, and at others of only four years. In 1830, the office of rector was abolished, and each of the four masters had the entire charge of finishing his own scholars during the four years. In 1834, this seminary underwent a very material alteration. From being a grammar-school, it may now be considered as an academy. Two of the masterships for Latin and Greek have been suppressed; and, in lieu of these, teachers of English grammar, elocution, French, Italian, German, writing, geography, and mathematics, have been introduced, and the name of the seminary has been changed to that of the High School. The school is under the im- mediate management of a committee of the town-council, aided by the advice and assistance of the reverend clergy of the city, and learned professors of the University. Schools. — In a large community like that of Glasgow, where schools are ever shifting, it is difficult to ascertain the exact num- ber; but the following abstract from Dr Cleland's Annals of Glas- gow, lately published, will give the reader an idea of the extent of education in this city. In that work, the names of 144 teachers are published, from which it appears that, exclusively of the Uni- versity and 13 institutions where youth were educated, there were 144 schools of evert/ description ; that, including the public insti- tutions, there were 16,799scholars,of whom6516 were taught gratis in the charity or free schools. These schools were all in the dis- trict of the royalty, containing about 75,000 souls. It appears from the same work, that Sunday schools were established in 1786; that there were 106 schools, 158 teachers, and 4668 scholars, viz. 2235 boys, and 2433 girls, besides 3 adult schools. An infant school so- ciety was instituted in 1826, and in 1827, the Glasgow Model School, the first in Scotland on the training system, was opened here under the auspices of Mr David Stow. In 1835, there are 6 in* fant schools, viz. the Model School in Salt Market, a school in Drygate, Chalmers' Street, Marlborough Street, John Street, and Cowcaddens ; and two school-houses are about to be built in Gor- bals, and one in Anderston. As it would be tedious to quote the rate of wages in the various schools, it may be sufficient to say, that they are from two to fifteen shillings per quarter. GLASGOW. 179 The Lord Advocate having directed the parochial clergy of Scotland to furnish him with a detailed account of the schools in th^ respective parishes, a valuable statistical document may be ex- pected in the course of the session of Parliament 1836. This, in eonnection with the periodical Reports of the Committee of the Ge- neral Assembly for increasing the means of Education and Religious Instoction in Scotland, will exhibit the amount of education in a Tery satisfactory manner. The Committee's Report for 1835 gives a detailed account of five of the Glasgow parishes, viz. the College, Tron, St David's, St John's, and St James's. The Report is ac- companied by a table showing the amount of population, number of parochial, endowed. Sabbath, and week day evening schools, Dumber of scholars, salaries of teachers, number of persons un- abk to read and write, &c Andersonian University, — This seminary, founded by Mr John Anderson, Professor of Natural Philosophy in the University of' Glasgow, on the 7th of May 1795, and endowed by him with a valuable philosophical apparatus, museum, and library, was incor- porated by a seal of cause from the magistrates and council of this city, on the 9th of June 1 796. The university is subject to the inspection of the Lord Provost, and other official persons, as ordi- nary visitors, and is placed under the immediate superintendence of eighty-one trustees, who are elected by ballot, and remain in office for life, unless disqualified by non-attendance. The trustees consist of nine classes of citizens, viz. tradesmen, agriculturists, artists, manufacturers, physicians and surgeons, lawyers, divines, philosophers, and, lastly, kinsmen or namesakes. The trustees elect annually by ballot nine of their number as managers, to whom the principal affairs of the university are intrusted during the year. The managers elect by ballot from their number the president,* secretary, and treasurer. Although the views of the venerable and celebrated founder embraced a complete circle of liberal edu- cation, adapted to the improved state of society, it was found con- Tenient at first to limit the plan to natural philosophy, chemistry, mathematics, and geography. • Presidents tince the origin of the University 179& Peter Wright, M. D. 1810. Joshua Heywood. 1797. Alexander Oswald. 1811. James Cleland, LL. D. 179a WilUam M'Neil. 1812. John Hamilton. 1801. James Monteath, M. D. 1814. John More. 1802L John Geddes. 1817. James Ewing, LL. D. 1805. Alexander Oswald. 1820. John Geddes. 1806. John Semple. 1821. Walter Ferguson. 1807. William Anderson, M. D. 1825. James A. Anderson. 1809. Robert Austin. 1831. James Smith, F. R. S. 180 LANARKSHIRE. The business of the university commenced on the 21st of Sep- tember 1796 by Dr Garnet's reading in the Trades Hall to persons of both sexes popular and scientific lectures on natural philosophy and chemistry, illustrated by experiments. Soon after this period, the managers rented, and then purchased, extensive premises in John Street. Dr Garnet having been appointed Professor of Ex- perimental Philosophy and Chemistry in the Royal Institution of London, which had been formed on the model of this primary one^ resigned his professorship, and, on the 18th of October 1799, Dr George Birkbeck was appointed as his successor. In addition to what had been formerly taught, he introduced a familiar system of instruction, which he demonstrated by experiments free of expense. About 500 operatives attended this class, the greater part of whom were recommended by Dr William Anderson and Dr James Cle- land. This mode of tuition, by which philosophical subjects are explained in ordinary language, divested of technicalities beyond the comprehension of the student, is continued with great suc- cess, at a small expense, and has been productive of the happiest effects to a valuable class of society. Dr Birkbeck resigned his professorship on the 5th of August 1804, and returned to London. Dr Andrew Ure was appointed his successor on the 21st of the following month, and, during a period of twenty-five years, dis- charged the duties of his oflSce with great ability, when he also went to London to reside. The affairs of the university becoming more and more prosper- ous, the trustees purchased from the city the grammar-school buildings fronting George Street, and having made considerable additions and alterations, the premises now contain numerous halls for the classes and for the museum, which has of late become very rich in its several departments. The university buildings were opened in November 1828, since which time the classes have been well attended, and soirees have been introduced with the hap- piest effect. The professions in 1835, are first, literature, philoso- phy and popular science : Classes, natural philosophy, logic, ethics, rhetoric, mathematics, natural history, modern languages, oriental languages, drawing %iid painting in oil and water colours, and po- pular lectures on the veterinary art ; and secondly. Medicine : clas- ses, surgery, chemistry, medical jurisprudence, theory of medicinoi anatomy, physiology, and midwifery. Mechanics Institution for the Promotion of the Arts and Sciences. — This society was formed in 1823, by the mechanics of Glasgow, with the view of disseminating mechanical and scientific knowledge GLASGOW. 181 ■ among their fellow operatives, particularly those branches more immediately connected with their daily occupations. Lectures were given on natural philosophy and chemistry, when a fee of diree shillings was paid by each student, which was afterwards in- emsed to ten shillings. From the formation of the society to the present time, the number of students has averaged yearly about 500. Free admission is annually given to the lectures on chemis- try and mechanics, and also to the librar}', — to poor apprentices, one being admitted for every twenty tickets sold. In this manner 290 have been admitted since the commencement of the institu? tion. In 1831, the society removed to large premises built for tiiem in Hanover Street. A colossal statue of James Watt is phced on the pediment of the building, by a subscription of one dulling from each student in successive years. In the building there are commodious apartments for the numerous models and ap- puatus; and for the library, which now consists of 3128 volumes on science and general literature. In the session of 1835, there are three professors, who give lectures on natural philosophy, chemistry, popular anatomy, physiology, and phrenology. Fee for the course, ^t shillings. At the close of the session of 1834-35, Mr Leadbetter, the zealous and philosophic president of the society, stated, that the students were from about forty different trades, — a proof of the utility of the institution.* The entry book of the library shows an increased avidity for reading. During the six months of the session 7778 isues were made to 399 readers, being an average of about 20 books to each reader. The British Association, from its perambulatory character, has given a new impulse to the study of science. " I expect to see ere long," said the indefatigable and talented President, " this body of men the concentration of all the scientific knowledge of Great Britain, encamped and set- ting up their crucibles in the city which first opened the portals of science to the mechanic and artisan, and which first invited the fair sex to a participation of the common benefits of a phi- losophical education." Exclusive of the above institution, there • Honorary Patron, — George Birkbeck, M. D. F. H. S. London. Vice- Patron J — Charles Tennant. Presidcutt—J ohn Leadbetter. Honorary Councillors : James Ewing, LL. D. James Hutchison. Henry Houkbworth. James Lumsden. James Wataon. Robert Napier. Archibald M^LelUm. James Clcland, LL.D. Haarice Pollock. William Dunn. WO&un Gilmour. Colin Dunlop, M. P. LANARK. N 182 LANARKSHIRE. are similar ones in the suburbs, with about 1200 students. In the Calton 450 students attended the natural philosophy class, of whom nine-tenths were operatives ; 200 females attended the astronomy and geography classes, seven-tenths of whom were mill girh. From the foregoing facts let not the friends of elementary educa- tion undervalue the acquirements of science, nor the friends of science the benefits of a moral and religious education. It is true that the one does not embrace scientific instruction, and the other does not profess to impart moral and religious knowledge, but both contribute to improve and exalt the human character, and are there- fore essential elements in a national education. Dr Chalmers has observed, that Christianity has every thing to hope and nothing to fear from the advancement of science, and he afibrds in his own character a striking instance of the benefits of scientific knowledge, ennobling the intellect, and adorning the Christian character. Newspapers. — The first newspaper published in the west of Scot- land was the Glasgow Courant, which appeared in the year 1715. It was published three times a-week, consisted of twelve pages in small quarto, and was sold for three-halfpence, or " one penny to regular customers." The second number contained a letter from Provost Aird, Colonel of the regiment of Glasgow Volunteers, de- tailing his views in regard to the Duke of Argyll's ultimate success at Sheriffmuir. The name of the paper was soon changed to that of the West Country Intelligence, which only survived a few years. From 1715 till the present time, there have been twenty-one at- tempts to establish newspapers in this city, and out of that num- ber, eleven still survive. The names of the papers, the dates of their commencement, and the periods of publication, are as fol- lows : — The Glasgow Courapt in 1715; the Journal in 1729; the Chronicle in 1775; the Mercury in 1779; the Advertiser in 1783 ; but in 1804 its name was changed to that of the Herald ; the Courier in 1791 ; the Clyde Commercial Advertiser in 1805; the Caledonia in 1807 ; but in the same year it merged in the Western Star ; the Sentinel in 1809; a second Chronicle in 181 1 ; the Scotsman in 1812; the Packet in 1813; a second Sentinel ia 1821; the Free Press in 1823; the Scots Times in 1825; the Evening Post in 1827 ; the Trades' Advocate in 1829 ; the Libera- tor in 1831 ; the Scottish Guardian and the Argus in 1832; and the Weekly Reporter in 1834. The eleven surviving papers are, the Journal, published once a-week ; the Herald, twice ; the Cou- rier, three times; the Chronicle, three times; the Free Press, twice ; the Scots Times, twice ; the Evening Post, once ; the Libe- GLASGOW. 183 ntoTj once; the Scottish Guardian, twice; the Argus, twice; and the Weekly Reporter, once ; so that in Glasgow there are twenty newspapers published weekly. It would be invidious to state the circulation of each paper, even if it could be accurately obtained. It 15, however, known, that the circulation of the Herald on each publishing day for some years past has exceeded 1800, and that during the quarter from the 1st of March to the 1st of Ji^ne 1834, its advertisements amounted to 3291. Libraries^ Sfc, — The first circulating library in the west of Scot- land was established in Glasgow in 1753, by Mr John Smith Se- nior, who lent out books at the rate of one-halfpenny per volume. There are now many circulating as well as public and private li- braries in Glasgow. Of the public libraries, exclusively of those belonging to the University, to Anderson's University, and to other literary bodies, the more valuable are Stirling's, which was institut- ed in 1791, the Glasgow in 1804, and the Robertsonian in 1814. Of late years a number of book societies have been established in Glasgow. They are conducted on a plan similar to that of cir- culating libraries, with this difference, that the books belong to the readers themselves, who are chiefly of the working-classes. The periodical book publishing trade, which, till about the year 1796, was scarcely known in Scotland, is carried on in Glasgow to an extent surpassing that of any other town in this part of the king- dom. By a late Parliamentary report, it appeared that in Scot- land there were 414 book-hawkers, technically termed ^^ canvas- sers" and ^^ deliverers," who, in seven years, collected L. 44160 per annum in sixpences and shillings ; and five-sixteenths of the whole belonged to Glasgow. The Maitland Club, which was established in this city a few years ago, is similar to the Bannatyne Club of Edinburgh, or the Roxburgh Club of London, by the reprinting of valuable and scarce old books for private use, or printing for the first time curious and rare manuscripts illustrative of the history, literature, or antiqui- ties of Scotland. The club takes its name from Sir Richard Maitland of Lethington, an Officer of State during the minority of James VI. ; and who like Bannatyne, did much service to Scottish literature, by compiling nearly all the poetry of the nation then in existence. During the last thirty years several magazines and other periodical works have been published here, but none of them have succeeded. The Church of Scotland Magazine bids fair for permanency. Pif^r. — The proper management of the poor is every where 184 LANARKSHIRE. important, but in a great manufacturing community, subject to numerous vicissitudes, unknown to small towns and rural districts, it is peculiarly so. The poor in nine of the ten parishes of the city are maintained by an assessment on the inhabitants, aided by certain donations, and the collections or offerings at the church doors ; whilst the poor of the other parish are maintained on a se- parate plan, to be afterwards mentioned, and the poor of the two suburban parishes of Barony and Gorbals by a tax on rental, aid- ed by donations and oflFerings. Soon after Dr Chalmers'* admis- sion to the Tron Church on the 21st of July 1815, he discover- ed that a great improvement might be made in the mode of main- taining the poor, and particularly that assessment might be dis- pensed with. Having explained his views to the magistrates, he was translated to the newly erected church and parish of St John's, that he might be the better able to develope his plan. Accordingly, on the 18th of August 1819, the town-council unanimously resolved that Dr Chalmers should have a ^^ separate, independent, and ex- clusive management and distribution of the funds which may be raised by voluntary or charitable collections at the doors of St John's Church for the relief of the poor resident in said parish." The scheme was continued by Dr Patrick Macfarlan, the clergy- man who succeeded Dr Chalmers, and is still continued by Dr Thomas Brown, the present incumbent ; and after a trial of six- teen years, the energies of what is emphatically called the o^^- cy have not decreased. There is no intricacy in the scheme. The members of the congregation are liberal in their voluntary of- ferings at the church doors. The parish is divided into small dis- tricts; numerous elders and deacons, to whom districts are assigned, visit their respective poor, by which means imposition is easily detect- ed, and the distribution of the fund to the legitimate poor more surely and easily accomplished. It redounds much to the credit of the parochial scheme, that St John's parish not only supports its poor without assessment, but the parishioners are assessed as other citizens for the maintenance of the poor of the other nine pa- rishes. We have preferred taking the following abstract from Dr Cle- land's Statistical work in 1831, to any statement which could be made for 1835, as we have the advantage of the Government enu- • This distinguished divine, now a Corresponding Member of the Royal Institute of France, received his degree of D. D. from the University of Glasgow, and of LL. D, from the University of Oxford,— literary honours which we believe never before met in the person of a Fretby terian clergyman. GLASGOW. 185 meratioD for the former year, to enable our readers to draw re- sults. Number of paupers in the city and suburbs on the 31st of December 1830, with the expense of maintaining them during that year. Nwmier Expense qf ofpaupert. mainUnimce. Sc MuDgo's, .... 179 L.396 12 9 Sc Mary's, 149 348 7 7 Blickfriars, .... 176 362 11 Outer High, 148 336 6 14 SC GCOTgGSf .... 126 354 2 Si Andrew's, 88 206 17 4 Sc Enocfa'Sy .... 137 264 6 2 St James*, 108 228 19 21 St Darid's, . j . . 71 161 16 8 St John's, .... 70 241 19 1 In-door and out^loor paupers in hospital, 1067 6773 1 7 Total in city, .... 2300 In Barony paridi. . 2237 7486 4 4 In Oorbals, .... 480 1132 18 04 Total in city and suburbs, . . 6006 L. 17281 18 O^ The population in the city and suburbs being 202,426, and the number of paupers 5006, there is one pauper for every 40)^0 Per- sons. The populatioQ of the ten parishes in the city being 89,847, and the number of paupers 2309, there is one pauper for every 383VQ persons. The number of paupers in the city and suburbs being5006,andtheamountoftheirmaintenaneeL. 17,281, 18s. O^d. gives to each pauper L. 3, 9s. O^^gd. The number of paupers in St John's parish being 70, and the amount of their maintenance L.241, 19s. Id. gives to each pauper L.3» 8b. lOj^^d. Abstract of the Expenditure of the Benevolent and Charitable In» aitutians ofGlasgowy exclusive of Widows? Funds^ Benefit Societies^ Charity Schools, and Maintenance of Paupers* The affairs of the following societies are conducted at the Re- ligious and Charitable Institution Rooms : DuUof Subecriptione ^nmatiom. for 1834. 1796, Glasgow Missionary Society, ... L. 736 1804» do. Bible Society, . 676 1809, Nile and George Street Chapels* Sabbath School Society, 67 1811, Aged Women's Society, . . 110 1811, Glasgow Auxiliary Gaelic School Society, 466 1812, do Old Men's Friend Society, . . . . 323 Auxiliary Hihemian Society, . . . 200 Auxiliary Bible Society, . . 166 Society in Aid of the Serainpore Missions, . 693 Young Men*s Society for the Support of Gadic Schools, 118 Auxiliary Morayian Society, 622 Society for Promoting Christianity among the Jews, (AuxiKary to the London Society, formed in 1810,) 166 1890, da Auxfliary Soottkh Missionary Society, . 266 1813, do. 1816^ do. 1816, do. 1817, do. 18I8» do. 1819^ do. 186 LANARKSHIRE. 1820, Glasgow Deaf and Dumb Institution, . • L. 215 1821, do. Religious and Church Institution House Reading Room, 85 1821, do. Auxiliary Religious Tract and Book Society for Ireland, 66 1822, do. Seaman's Friend Society, ... 87 1823, do. Auxiliary London Missionary Society, (originated in 1815, re>organized in 1823,) .... 1823, do. Auxiliary Irish Evangelical Society, ] 823, do. Religious Tract Society, .... 1825, do. North American Colonial Society, 1825, Orphan's Institution, ..... 1826, Glasgow Continental Society, .... 1826, do. City Mission, ..... 1827, 7 130 175 485 15 10 85 50 15 260 L. 30,039 7 8 The following list was prepared a few years ago by Dr Cleland for a public purpose. Although the expenditure of some of the institutions may now vary a little, the aggregate amount may be taken as pretty near the truth. 1460, St Nicholas Hospital, Fourteen incorporations (at various dates,) 1599, Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons, 1605, Merchant's House, 1605, Trades House, 1639, Hutchison's Hospital, 1725, Buchanan's Society, . . 1727, Highland Society, 1729, Mitchell's Mortification, (Mortmain,) 1741, Tennant's Mortification, 1778, Wilson's Charity, 1778, Coulter's Mortification, 1789, Grocers' Society, 1790, Miller's ( harity, 1790, Humane Society, 1790, Society of the Sons of the Clergy, 1790, Brown's Society, 1790, Watson's Society, 1791, Glasgow Galloway Brotherly Society, 1794, Royal Infirmary,* L.30 2777 3 1 35 e 920 12 2 782 11 8 2580 2 11 418 15 2 775 7 100 46 2 8 214 1 7 60 95 8 4 264 4 2 49 10 9 228 12 24 7 49 10 3593 4 7 • The number of patients in the hospitals and asylums on the 25th March 1831 was 709, viz. in the Royal Infirmary, 304 ; of whom males, 143; females, 161 ; un- der 30 years of age, 141?. In the Lunatic Asylum there were 264, viz. insane, 212; of whom, males, 99; females, 1 13; under 30 years, 46 ; idiots, 1 1 ; of whom, males, 8 ; females, 3 ; under 30 years, 5 ; silly in mind, 41 ; of whom, males, 9; females, 32 ; under 30 years, 6. In the Lock Hospital there were females, 27 ; under 30 years, 23. In the Magdalene Asylum there were 83, all under 30 years. In the GLASGOW. 187 1794, TMfiben* Society, L.21 1794, Dumfries-ahire fiooety, .... 10 J79A, Facuhy of Procurators, 74 J797* B«lge of Merit Highland Society, 12 1805, Ix)ck Hospital, .... 451 1 1809, Stirlingshire Society, .... 20 2 18] 0, Lunatic Asylum, .... 443 5 1811, M< Alpine's Mortification, 70 1812, Benevolent Society for Clothing the Poor, 340 13 10 1615, Magdalene Asylum, .... 485 7 9 Not aeeertained. Graham's Society, 1G4 G 1 Dot Ayrshire Society, .... 41 8 AbstncC amount of charities partaking of a benevolent character. L. 15,191 3 8 Bo. of a religious character. 30,039 7 8 Amount of religious and charitable funds, . L. 45,230 1 1 4 Donations for charitable education under the patronage of the magistrates and ministers of Glasgow, exclusive of the above, 1825, Mr M'Lachlan, Calcutta, . . . . L. 8281 18 1831, Mr James Murdoch, Glasgow, 4417 18 1833, Dt Bell, London, ..... 9f9l I3 Cootingciii on the life of Mrs Maxwell, aged upwards of 70 years, 2000 6 4 L. 24,491 9 10 H*Lacb]an*a includes the Elders. Presbytery ofGlasgotCy and Synod of Glasgow arid Ayr, — The Presbytery formerly consisted of ten ministers of the city, and those of the twelve surrounding parishes, viz. Barony of Glasgow, Gorbals, Rutherglen, Cumbernauld, Carmunnock, Cadder, Campsie, Govan, Kirkintilloch, Kilsyth, Cathcart, and Eaglesham, with their elders ; but as the thirteen ministers of the chapels of ease have now been raised to the status of parish ministers, the clerical members of Presbytery are increased to thirty-five. The Presbytery of Glas- gow in 1835, for the first time, sent six ministers and three elders to the General Assembly. The synod consists of eight presbyteries, viz. Glasgow, Ayr, Ir- vine, Paisley, Hamilton, Lanark, Dumbarton, and the new Pres- bytery of Greenock. The following is a view of the progressive stipends of nine of the ministers of Glasgow. Till 1788, the stipends were paid in Scots money, viz. in merks converted into pounds Sterling. Id 1638, . L. 56 16 lU 1642, 66 Id 4 154d» 78 16 8 1674, 90 172% 111 2 2| 1762, 138 17 9^ In 1788, - L. 165 1796, 200 1801, - 250 1808, 300 1814, 400 1830, 425 Deaf and Dumb Institution there were 37 ; males, 22 ; females, 15; under 20 years, 36. The blind persons in the Asylum and Town's Uospiul were 40 ; males, 26 ; females, 14 ; under 30 years, 27* Eye Infirmary, 4 ; males, 2 ; females, 2 ; under 30, ^ 188 LANARKSHIRE. The Stipend of the minister of the Cathedral Church (St Mungo or Inner High) is paid in victual from teind (converted into mo- ney,)* viz. 12^ chalders of meal; 12^ chalders of barley ; L. 30 in money ; and a glebe, which has been feued under the authority of Parliament. This stipend, when grain is at a moderate price, amounts to about L. 500. It is very remarkable, that the stipend of the Barony parish, with the largest population in Scotland, was only 2000 merks Scots, (L. Ill, 2s. 2§d.) till 22d February 1815, when the Court of Teinds raised it to 22 chalders of victual, and L. 30 in money. The glebe was afterwards authorized to be feued. When the Gorbals parish was erected on 20th February 1771, the stipend was L. 90. It has since been increased to L. 300. Church Accommodation. — In 1831, the population of the city and suburbs, as before stated, was 202,426, and the total sittings in the various places of worship in the city and suburbs 73,425 : viz. in the Established Church, 30,928 ; Seceders, Dissenters, Episco- palians, and Roman Catholics, 42,497. This is in the proportion * His Migesty's Justices of the Peace for the Count j of Lanark, taking into their consideration that, by act 4th and 5th William IV. cap. 49, all local measures are repealed ; and that in Scotland, on 1st January 1835, the fiar prices of all grain in every county, for ascertaining the value of ministers' stipends, teinds, &c. shall be struck by the imperial quarter, it therefore becomes necessary to know how many im* perial bushels and parts of a bushel are equal to a Linlithgow wheat chalder, and an oat and barley chalder ; and having full confidence in the science and skill of Dr Wil- liam Meiklebam, Professor of Natural Philosophy in the University of Glasgow ; Dr Thomas Thomson, Professor of Chemistry in said University ; and Or James Cle- land of Glasgow, Fellow of the Statistical Society of London, the meeting appointed the said gentlemen to ascertain and report on oath, on the oomparatiTe contents of the measures aforesaid. After mature investigation, commensurate to the importance of the remit, they re- ported inter alku Table for Whrat, Pfas, and Table for Oats, Barley, Bkex, Beans. and Malt. Chald, Imp. Bush. Bush. . Gaa. Chald, Imp. Bush. Btuh. ( GaiL 1=^ 6a88G*2656 or 63 7 1-10 1= 93.198784 or 93 1 a^ 2=127.7725312 or 127 6 1-5 2=186.397568 or 186 3 1-6 3=191.6587968 or 191 5 1-4 3=279.596352 or 279 4 a4 4=255.5450624 or 255 4 1-3 4=372.795136 or 372 6 1-5 5=319.4313280 or 319 3 9-20 5=465.993920 or 465 7 i9L-ao 6=38adl75936 or 383 2 i-2 6=559.192704 or 559 1 1-2 y— 447.2038592 or 447 1 2-3 7=652.391488 or 652 3 l-« 8=511.0901248 or 511 3-4 8=745.590272 or 745 4 3-4 9«574.9763904 or 574 7 8-10 9=838.789056 or 838 6 1-3 10b=63a8626560 4>r 638 6 9-10 10=931.987840 or 931 7 9-10 At a meeting of his Majesty's Justices of the Peace fur the County of Lanark, held at Hamilton on the 24th October 1 834, his Grace the Lord Lieutenant suggested* and the meeting unanimously conferred on Dr Cleland, one of their number, the honorary office of Inspector- General of weights and measures for the county, with control over the statutory inspectors. The counties of Renfrew and Dumbarton, and the burghs of Calton, Hamilton, Lanark, Paisley, Greenock, Dumbarton, and Kirkintilloch, had their imperial standards of weights and measures adjusted and cer- tified by the Director- GeneraL GLASGOW. 189 of ooe sitting to 2.75-lOOth persons, or 20,291 sittings less than the amount required by law. On 1st July 1835, the House of Commons presented a humble address to his Majesty, who has been graciously pleased to appoint a commission *^ to inquire into the opportunities of religious worship and means of religious instruction, and the pastoral superintendence afforded to the people of Scotland, and how far these are of avail for the religious and moral improvement of the poor and of the woridng classes, and with this view to obtain information respect- ing their stated attendance at places of worship, and their actual connection with any religious denomination, to inquire what funds are now or ma,^ hereafter be available for the purpose of the Esta- blished Church of Scotland, and to report from time to time, in order that such remedies may be applied to any existing evils as Parliament may think fit" When the time occupied, and the expense incurred in preparing for the church is considered, no one will presume to say that the aspirant for the holy ministry is actuated by mercenary motives ; it is, therefore, the duty of those who benefit by their labours to pro- vide for their temporal wants in a suitable manner, so that their ^liritual instructor may be enabled to devote his whole energies to the duties of his sacred office. As the livings of two of the clei^* men of this city arise from teinds, the following account may not be uninteresting: In the case of the minister of Prestonkirk against the heritors of that parish in 1808^ the Lord President Hope, then Lord Jus- tice-Clerk, in giving his opinion, said, *^ When we look back to the history of past ages, we find that the tithes of Scotland were at no time the property of the heritors. From the very earliest period which we can trace our history, the tithes were the property of the state, reserved by the state, and by the state appropriated, or at least applied, as a fund for the purpose of maintaining the clergy. Let us consider the situation of an heritor in the light of a pur- chaser of land. Did any such pay one farthing as the price of the tithes ? Certainly not - They always are, and always have been, deducted from the rental in calculating the price of the estate. What is taken from the tithes for the maintenance of the clergy is not, therefore, taken out of the podcet of the heritors ; for, merely as a proprietor of land, he can have no .right to the tithes either by purchase or inheritance. On the point of law^ I never was clearer on any question in my life. In point of authority, I look 190 LANARKSHIRE. to Lord Stair, as the highest with which I am acquainted. On the subject of tithes he says, * They were at all times the property of the Church or state.* He adds, that, * into whatever hands they pass, teinds carry along with them, as a burthen affecting them, competent stipends for the ministers who are, or who shall be, elected ;' in other words, that, into whatever hands teinds may come, they are inherently necessarily burthened with the mainte- nance of the clergy." The Lord Justice- Clerk then said, " Where has there been since the world began such a body of clergy in point of virtue, learning, piety, and a faithful discharge of their parochial duties ? The clergy of Scotland, I am proud to say, have never been equalled by the clergy of any nation upon earth. Much reason would the landholders of this country have to be contented and satisfied, though the burden of maintaining such a body of clergy had been ten times greater than it is. Still more reason have the heritors of Scotland to be satisfied with their lot, when they compare their situation with that of the landed proprietors of any other country." Lord Craig " would not go over the ground occupied by his learned brother, but would say, of all men in any Christian country in Europe, the proprietors of land in Scotland have least reason to complain of the state of the teinds. By the law of Scotland, they possess advantages with regard to teinds which no other country in Christendom enjoys. " As the Church of Christ includes an order of men who devote their time and study to the discharge of the duties of the pastoral office, and who have been expressly educated for that purpose, they are entitled to a competent maintenance from those for whose good they labour ; and the provision for the clergy of the Church of Scotland, though inferior to that of other ecclesiastical establishments, is, on the whole, respectable. The allowance to the clergy out of the tithes of the parish was at first but scanty, but their stipends have been gradually augmented. Indeed, if, while other orders of men are getting forward, the stipends of the ministers of the Established Church had remained stationary, the accumulation of national wealth, by relatively sinking those who minister at the altar into abject poverty, would have rendered them contemptible, and the Church would have been supplied solely from the lowest orders of the people. It is a branch of political wisdom, therefore, to save the Established clergy from this degra- dation, which would undermine their usefulness, and might render GLASGOW. 191 them but little anxious to preserve the welfare and stability of the state."* It has been said, that clergymen in the discharge of the sacred du- ties of their office belong to no particular class of society, mixing, as they necessarily do, with the high, the low, and the middle grades. In Glasgow the clergymen have always been highly respectable, and at no period more so than at present. The Established churches in Glasgow are all uncoUegiate. The ministers prepare and preach two sermons every Sunday, and in rotation preach on Thursdays in St Mary's Church, and Hope Street and St Mary's Churches on Sunday evenings. They preach occasional charity and mission- ary sermons. They examine the youth of their congregations in class meetings, and give partial ministerial visitations in the families of their parishioners. To visit the whole in the present overgrown state of the parishes would be next to impossible. They visit the sick, and assist the kirk-session in the proper distribution of the poors' funds ; — they superintend the schools in their parishes, — and, in obedience to the wishes of the pious founders of some of the benevolent institutions of the city, they share the management with the magistrates ; and their attendance on funerals, kirk-sessions, presbyteries, synods, and general assemblies, occupies a consider- able portion of their time. The bare recital of the above must convince every one of the laborious duties of a city parochial clergy- man ; and as to pecuniary remuneration, it is barely sufficient for pre- sent purposes, leaving little or no provision in case of a widowed family. The clergymen of Glasgow have long moved in the first rank of society. Their dwelling-houses and their domestic expenses are necessarily on a scale suited to their rank. In addition to the Go- vernment and local taxes, they are subjected to clerical ones, and they readily contribute to private and public charities ; and when it is considered that their sons usually receive a university educa- tion, and their daughters that which is suited to their station, the wonder is, how a city clergyman can bring up his family on his sti- pend, not to speak of his making any after-provision for them. In 1831 there were 58 clergymen in the city and suburbs who receiv- ed stipend, varying from L. 150 to L. 500 ; the average to each was within a small fraction of L. 268. If the maintenance of the whole clergy was chargeable to each individual in the community, it would only amount to Is. 5|d. in the year, — a sum small, indeed, when compared with the important benefits received. * Hill's Theological Institutes, p. 282. 192 LANARKSHIRE. The corporation of the city are proprietors of the Established churches, and receive the seat rents. That the church is not bur- densome to the community is evident from the following official statement for 1834, by which it appears that the ecclesiastical re- venue exceeded the expenditure, L. 487, Is. 7d. as under : Rents of seats in the Established churches, . . L« 4030 15 Stipend to the Established clergymen of the city,* L. 3825 Communion elements, . . 163 10 7 Salaries to ten precentors, . . 146 11 8 Cleaning churches, insurance, coal and candle, . 110 10 Repairing church windows, . . . 31 16 3 General repairs and furnishings for churches, . 166 4 11 4443 13 5 Excess, . . L. 487 1 7 Individuals inimical to establishments think that the interest of the sums laid out in building the churches should form a part of the expense of the Establishment Without admitting the prin- ciple that parochial churches should support themselves;, on the contrary, believing that the law and the practice is otherwise, it may be well to see how the churches in Glasgow came into the possession of the corporation. In the first place, the Cathedral and Outer High Churches belong to the Crown, the corporation being at the expense of seating them. The College Church was given to the cor- poration by Queen Mary ; and on its becoming ruinous, it was re- built chiefly by private subscription. At present a very great pro- portion of the seats belong to the College or to private individuals. The Ramshorn Church in like manner was built chiefly by sub- scription. It has lately been rebuilt, under the name of St David's, at the expense of the corporation. This church, and its beautiful tower, after deducting the amount of sales of burying places in the crypt, cost the corporation little more than L.3000. St Enoch's Church, originally intended for a chapel of ease, was built chiefly by subscription, but was soon afterwards acquired by the corpora- tion for a parish church. It has lately been rebuilt on very favour- able terms; as the corporation, after receiving interest for the sum laid out, gained L. 132, 17s. 6d. per annum, as appeared from a printed paper which Dr Cleland addressed to the corporation when the church was finished. This saving arose chiefly from additional seats and better accommodation. The collections at the doors of the Established churches ave- rage rather more than L. 1800 per annum, which, when added to • By Act 4ft Geo. III. 6, C. 138, no stipend can be augmented until twenty yean after the date of the last decreet of modification. The incumbents of the Cathedral and Barony Churches were entitled to apply for an augmentation on 22d February GLASGOW. 193 the sum of L.487, Is. 7d. surplus revenue, is much more than would pay the interest of the expense of building the Established churches. The poor in this city, as is elsewhere stated, are support- ed by an assessment on the inhabitants, whether belonging to the Established Church or to the Dissenters. The collections at the doors of the Established churches go to reduce that assessment, but those received at the doors of the Dissenters chapels do not go to the fund, but are applied to purposes connected with their own body. City Mission. — The want of church accommodation, and the total inability of the clergymen of the city to attend to the religi- ous wants of a numerous class of the community, many of whom have no desire for religious instruction, led to the formation of the City Mission. The society was instituted upon the 1st of Janu- ary 1826, for the purpose of promoting the spiritual welfare of the poor of Glasgow and its neighbourhood, by employing persons of approved piety, and otherwise properly qualified, to visit the poor in their own houses, for the purpose of religious discourse, and to use other meaas of diffusing and increasing amongst them a know- ledge of evangelical truth. In December 1831, there were twenty- two licentiates or students of divinity employed at salaries of L.40 each ; twenty of these were on full time, viz. four hours per day, and the other two on two-thirds time. In addition to the city mission, a parochial mission was instituted in 1832, and there are now one missionary in every parish, and two or three in the large ones. Raman Catholics. — The number of Roman Catholics has greatly increased in Glasgow of late years. The following is a brief ac- count of their rise and progress. Although popular opinion ran very strong against the exercise of the Roman Catholic religion in this city till after the mitigation of the penal statutes, Bishop Hay occasionally came from Edin- burgh, and celebrated mass in a clandestine manner in a room in Blackstock's back tenement. Salt Market Street, to the few Catho- lics who at that time resided here. An act of Parliament having been passed for repealing certain pBoal statutes in England enacted against the Roman Catholics, ^ the 11th and 12th years of William IIL, a bill was brought in- ^ Parliament for repealing these statutes in Scotland, which ex- ited great alarm in that part of the kingdom. In Edinburgh, a ''^ob assembled on 3d February 1779, and burnt Bishop Hay's house and valuable library, and the house of Principal Robertson ^ould have shared the same fate, had it not been protected by the 194 LANARKSHIRE. military, he having expressed himself favourable to the repeal of the penal statutes. In Glasgow, the measure was viewed with so much alarm, that eighty-five societies were formed to oppose it ; and Mr John Pa- terson, a spirit-merchant, was appointed to keep up a corre- spondence with Lord George Gordon, at that time the head of the Protestant association in London. During the discussion in Par- liament, a mob collected on Sunday the 5th February 1780, dur- ing the time of divine service, and would have destroyed the dwel- ling-house of a Catholic where mass was being celebrated, had not Provost French and the other magistrates arrived in time to pre- vent it. On the Thursday following, being a day appointed for a national fast, a mob collected in King Street, and destroyed the shop of Mr Bagnall, a potter. Having completed their work of de- vastation, they went to Tureen Street, and destroyed his manufac* tory, for no other reason but that he was a Roman Catholic The increase of Roman Catholics in Glasgow may be dated from 1791. At that time the spirit for emigration from the North High- lands to America was such as to drain the country of many of its best labourers. The services of these hardy Northlanders being required at home, Messrs George M' In tosh, David Dale, Robert Dalglish, and other extensive manufacturers, invited them to this city, and to such as were Roman Catholics, security was promised in the exercise of their religion. The Tennis Court, in Mitchell Street, was fitted up as a temporary chapel, and the Reverend Alexander M*Donald, now Bishop of Upper Canada, was appointed priest in 1792. Mr M'Donald was succeeded by the Reverend John Farquhar- son in 1795. Soon after that time the number of Roman Catholics increased so much, that, in 1797, they built a small chapel in the Gallowgate, near the barracks. In 1805, Mr Farquharson was suc- ceeded by the Reverend Andrew Scott. From this period the num- ber of Roman Catholics increased so rapidly, that, in 1815, the foun- dation stone of a new chapel was laid in Clyde Street. This spa- cious edifice, in which there is a magnificent organ, was opened with great solemnity on the Sunday before Christmas 1816; after which the chapel in the Gallowgate was appropriated to another purpose. The number of Roman Catholics continuing to increase, the Lancasterian school-house in Gorbals was converted into a Ro- man Catholic chapel in 182a In 1831, there were 26,965 Ro- man Catholics in this city, and their number has increased con- siderably since. 3 GLASGOW. 195 On 21st September 1828^ the Reverend Andrew Scott was raised to the dignity of Bishop of Eretria in the Archipelago, and coad- jutor vicar aposf lie to Bishop McDonald for the western district of Scotland* Mr Sc .t was consecrated bishop with great solem- nity by the Right Reverend Bishop Paterson of Edinburgh, assist- ed by Bishop McDonald of Lismore, and Bishop Penswick of Liver- pooL Prior to 1821, there was only one priest resident in Glasgow; at that period there were two; in 1826, four; and in 1829, the number of clergymen was increased to five, viz. the Right Reverend Bishop Scott^ the Reverend John Murdoch (now Bishop,) the Re- verend John McDonald, the Reverend William Stewart, and the Reverend Charles Grant. ♦ Licenses to sell Spirits, — The number of persons licensed to re- tail spirituous liquors in the ten parishes of the city being 1393, and the number of famiHes, 19,467, gives one licensed person or public-house to 13iVo families. If the number of persons who retail spirituous liquors without being able to obtain a Ucense were taken into account on the one hand, and the number of temperate families who never use a public-house on the other, it may be said, that in Glasgow there is at least one place where spirits are re- tried for every twelve families / / / Pawnbrokers. — The business of a pawnbroker was. not known in Glasgow till August 1806. At that period an itinerant Eng- lish pawnbroker commenced business in a room in the High Street, but was obliged to give up at the end of six months, for want of business; and it was not until the 8th of June 1813, that John Graham, a disbanded town-officer, set up a regular pawnbroking • On 16th June 1835, a solemn dedication of St Margaret's Nunnery, Edinburgh, took place in its beautiful Saxon Cbapel, and at the same time an interesting and af- fecting ceremony took place on the admission of three young persons, who then en- tered Uieir noviciate into the community of the Sisters of Charity. The Right Re- ▼weod Bishop Carruthers, who officiated in chief, attired in gorgeous saccrdotals, tinkled the chapel with holy water. The sermon was delivered by Bishop Mur- Ajch of Glasgow, from the front of the altar. In eloquent and powerful language ^^^ Right Reverend Preacher alluded to the havoc which the Reformation had made ^ the Catholic institutions of this country, and also to the fiery bigotry which, even ^f«ent times, had consigned to the flames the only Catholic chapel in Edinburgh ; ■"d while he contrasted the persecuting fury of former times with the enlightened spirit and toleration of the present, he at the same time earnestly disclaimed alluding *° tl«»e things as matters of reproach to Protestants. lie adverted to them merely * fi^ts in history, and proceoDs, the public are greatly indebted for the splendid improvements on the river. The present trustees, with a revenue of L. 31,497, ^hject only to the interest of the debt, amounting at last balance to L. 125,231, 14s. lOd., will be enabled to do a great deal towards the general improvement of the river. Since the deepening of the river, ship-building has been intro- 200 LANARKSHIRE. duced here* A large steam vessel for the Mediterranean trade was lately launched at Glasgow. Application o/* the Steam^Engine in propelling vessels. — The application of steam in propelling vessels long engaged the atten- tion of men of mechanical genius. In 1736, Mr Jonathan Hulls obtained a patent for " a new invented machine for carrying ves- sels or ships out of or into any harbour, port, or river, against wind and tide, or in a calm;" but this scheme did not succeed. In 1781, the Marquis de Fouffroy made some unsuccessful experiments in propelling vessels by steam on the Saone at Lyons. In 1785, Mr James Rumsey of Virginia, and Mr John Fitch of Philadelphia, made several experiments, which were also unsuccessful. In the same year, Mr Patrick Miller of Dalswinton, Dumfries-shire, made several experiments with paddles, on twin and triple vessels, work- ed by men and horses, an account of which he published in February 1787. Soon after this, Mr Miller, built a boat with two keels, between which he introduced a propelling paddle ; and Mr Wil- liam Symington of Falkirk, applied the steam-engine to it; and in 1788, Mr Miller and Mr Symington made an experiment with it on Dalswinton pond. But after several attempts, it was found that the engine and wheel were so inefficient, as occasionally to require the assistance of manual labour at a windlass. Some time after this, Mr Miller caused a larger engine to be made at Carron Works, and an experiment was made with it on the Forth and Clyde Canal, which, though answering better than the former, did not succeed. In 1 794, the Earl of Stanhope constructed a steam- vessel with paddles under her quarters, but with no better success. In 1801 and 1802, Lord Dundas, then Governor of the Forth and Clyde Navigation, employed Mr Symington to construct a steam- boat for that canal, but this boat, from what Mr Syniington called the " opposition of narrow minds," was laid up in a creek near Bainsford Bridge, where it remained as a wreck for many years. Mr Taylor and other ingenious individuals also failed in their laudable attempts. The whole race of steam propellers having thus left the field one by one, without being able to eflFect their object, the ground was occupied by Mr Henry Bell,* who, having a turn for mechanics, made a sieam-engine of three horse-power, and employed Messrs • Mr Bell was born in the parish of Torphichen, Linlithgowshire, on 7th April 1767. He died at the Baths, Helensburgh, Dumbartonshire, on Uth November 1830. GLASGOW. 201 John Wood and Company, ship-builders in Port-Glasgow, to build a boat for him, which he called the Comet.* On 18th January 1812, the Comet began to ply between Glasgow and Greenock, and made five miles an hour against a head wind, whilst, by simply increasing her power, she went at the rate of seven miles an hour. Tlis was the first vessel that was successfully propelled on a na- vigable river in Europe, and it is very remarkable, that, notwith- standing the great progress in mechanical science, no improvement has yet been made on Mr Bell's mode ; although numerous efforts have been made here and elsewhere for that purpose. It is true that boats go swifter now than formerly, but the propelling system remains the same. To this brief account of the origin of the steam-propelling system in this country, it must be added that the Americans preceded us fully four years. In October 1807, Mr Robert Fulton, an American engineer, launched a steam-boat at New York, which plied with great effect between that city and Albany, a distance of 160 miles. Clyde Steam-vesseb in 1831 and 1835. — Out-sea Boats. 1831. Vessels, Tonnage, Uferpool, 5 910 Belfast, 3 429 DubUn 2 370 Londonderry, 2 238 Total, - 12 1947 1831. Vessels. Tonnage. 1835. Vessels, Tonnage. 7 1522 6 918 3 474 2 289 Boats for goods and passengers plying as far u Stranraer on the one side of the Clyde, ^d to the West Highlands on the other, ^ts for passengers only, and plying on the mer and Frith of Clyde, . - - Luggage boats, - - - - - Toving boats, 18 3203 1835. Vessels. Tonnage, 8 25 7 3 Abstract. 600 1728 431 199 11 26 8 4 834 1927 470 257 ^t-^ea boats, ^'^ndi and passengers. fwsengers, J;"Kage, fowing, 1831. Vessels, Tonnage. 12 8 25 7 3 1947 600 1728 431 199 1835. Vessels, Tonnage, 18 11 26 8 4 3203 834 1927 470 257 Total, - 55 4905 67 6691 The above tonnage is register measure ; carpenter's measure in • The progress in steam navigation of late years is truly wonderful. In January 1S12, there was not a steam-boat in Europe excepting the " Comet,|' of three horse power, at Glasgow. Now almost every navigable river in Europe is teeming with ^^, Some of the Glasgow boats have now upwards of 240 horse power. 202 LANARKSHIRE. steam*yessels is about one-third more. All the new boats either for the out-sea or river trade, are of greater engine power, and are much more splendidly fitted up for the accommodation of passen- gers than heretofore. The speed is also greatly improved. The Liverpool boats in 1831 were thought to have made good passages, when they performed the run from Liverpool to Greenock, a dis- tance of 220 miles, in twenty-four to twenty-six hours. It is now done much sooner. On Wednesday, 24th June 1835, the steam- packet City of Glasgow, belonging to Messrs Thomson and Mac- connell, left Greenock, and arrived in Liverpool in the unprece- den tedly short period of seventeen hours andfifty-fioeminvtes ; and the steam-packet Manchester, belonging to Messrs James Martin, and James and George Bums and Company of this city, left the Clarence dock, Liverpool, on Monday evening the 15th December 1834, and arrived in Glasgow, a distance of 240 miles, discharged and loaded her cargoes, and was back again in the same dock within the short period oi sixty hours. This was done in the dead of winter, and shows what may be accomplished by steam navigation, from studying the tides in the Mersey and Clyde. The cabin fares for the river boats are rather less than one penny per mile, and for out-sea boats rather more. To Liverpool the fare is L. 1, 5s. While locomotive engines have succeeded on our rail-roads to admiration, the steam carriages on the common road from Glas- gow to Paisley have been abandoned. The Forth and Clyde Navigation. — In 1768, an act of Parlia- ment was obtained for making a canal from the river Forth, at or near the mouth of the river Carron, in the county of Stirling, to the river Clyde, at or near Dalmuir Burnfoot, in the county of Dum- barton, with a collateral cut to the city of Glasgow. On the 10th of June in that year, Sir Lawrence Dundas dug out the first spade- ful of earth for the formation of the canal, and it was opened from the eastern to the western sea on the 28th of July 1790. On the llth of November in the same year, the basin at Port Dundas was finished. The length of the navigation from the Forth to the Clyde is 35 miles, and the cut to Glasgow, 2^ miles. There are 39 locks on the canal, namely, 20 from the Forth to Glasgow, and 19 between the great aqueduct and the Clyde. The length of the locks between the gates is 74 feet, the width 20 feet, and the fall 10 feet. The medium width of the surface of the canal is 56 feet, at bottom 27 feet ; and the depth nearly 10 feet. The rise from the east sea to the summit level of the canal at Wineford GLASGOW. 203 Lock is 156 feet ; and the descent to the Clyde 150 feet, so that the Forth at the east end of the canal is 6 feet lower than the Clyde at Bowling. This great canal, which required 22 years for its completion, was one of the most arduous to execute in the kingdom ; having to encounter rocks, precipices, and quicksands ; in some places it runs through a deep moss, and in others it is banked 20 feet high. It crosses many rivulets and roads, as well as 2 consi- derable rivers, the Luggie and the Kelvin. The bridge over the latter, which consists of four arches, and carries the canal across a deep valley, cost L. 8509. The canal is supplied with water by eight reservoirs covering 721 acres, and containing 24,902 lock- fulls of water. Mr Kirkman Finlay of Castle Toward, the present governor, was elected to that important office on 20th March 1816. At the following balance the rate per cent on each original share of L 100 was L. 25. The annual average revenue during sixteen years previous to Mr Finlay being appointed governor, was L. 30,323, 7s. 6d. ; and the annual average revenue during sixteen years after it was L. 46,680, 1 Is. 4d. In 1832, there were 2 steam passage-boats on the canal ; each of 24 horse power. These boats went at the rate of six miles an hour. In 1833^ the steam-boats gave place to swift iron boats, which travel at the rate of 10 miles an hour. Five of these boats leave Port Dundas for Stirling and Edinburgh, and return every lawful day, and two additional ones are in a state of preparation. In 1832, the revenue from steam and heavy drag boats was L1213, 19s. 5d.; in 1833 from the swift boats L. 3007, 19s. Id.; and in 1834, upwards of L. 5000. Monkland Canal, — This canal affords a cheap communication between the city of Glasgow, and the collieries in the parishes of Old and New Monkland, distant about 12 miles. The canal was origbally 35 feet broad at the top, and 24 at the bottom, depth of ^aterupon the lock sills 5 feet, and the smallest depth throughout any part of the canal 4 feet 6 inches. The banks have been re- cently raised, by which a greater depth of water is procured. At Blackhill there are 4 locks of 2 chambers, each chamber 7 1 feet long, 14 feet broad, and 12 feet deep. The head level at the top tfBlackhill is continued to Sheepford, a distance of 8 miles, where there are 2 single locks of 1 1 feet 6 inches each, which carries the canal to the river Calder. In the spring of 1813, 3 passage-boats began to ply to Sheepford, about a mile from Airdrie. This canal 204 LANARKSHIRE. has been productive to the stockholders for a number of years past Glasffowj Paisley 9 and Ardrossan CanaL — The expense of land- carriage from Glasgow to the west coast through the fertile coun- ties of Renfrew, and Ayr, abounding with coal and limestone, sug- gested a wat-er conveyance. Th& operations on the canal com- menced in May 1807, and the navigation opened between Glasgow and Johnstone on the 4th of October 1811. Although the canal was opened at that period, the trade did not commence till April 1812. The length of the canal from Port Eglinton to Ardrossan is d2| miles, from Port Eglinton to Johnstone 1 1 miles, breadth at top 30 feet, at bottom 1 8 feet, and depth 4 feet 6 inches. There are no locks on that part of the canal yet executed, viz. between Port Eglinton and Johnstone ; but when the canal is carried for- ward, there will be eight near Johnstone to raise the canal to the summit level, and thirteen to fall down to the harbour of Ardros- san. On the 6th of November 1810, passage-boats were put on this canal ; but Mr William Houston, of Johnstone Castle, has the merit of introducing swift iron boats. The great increase of passengers may be seen from the follow- ing statement H Tnps each day. Patten- gert each trip. 79455 289 8 34 1-3 275 148516 311 14 341-9 477 240062 310 20 382-3 774 307275 313 22 44 2-3 962 From 1st Oct. 1890 to SOth Sept. 183I| 1st Oct. 1831 to 30th Sept. 1832, Ist Oct 1832 to 30th Sept 1833, 1st Oct iaS3 to SOth Sept. 1834, The passengers did not all travel from Glasgow to John- stone, many of them leaving at intermediate stages. During the months of July and August 1834, 50,000 persons took passages on the canal; — the number in one day was 2500. The proportions of the best cabin and second cabin passengers are, one-fifth of the best cabin passengers at one penny per mile, and four-fifths of se- cond cabin passengers at three farthings per mile. The average total fare on the canal is therefore sixteen-twentieths of a penny per mile. The swift boats on the Forth and Clyde, and Union Canals, ply at similar rates. Union Canal. — The Union Canal was begun on the 3d of March 1818. It is 31^ miles in length from Port-Hopetoun, near Edinburgh, to Port-Downie, near Falkirk. The navigation for ten miles west from Port-Hopetoun was opened on the 22d of March 1822, and to Port-Downie early in May thereafter. The GLASGOW. 205 canal is on a level line for 30 miles from- Port Hopetoun, — the re- maiDiDg distance is occupied by 11 locks, each 10 feet deep, so that the Union Canal at the head of the locks is 110 feet above the Forth and Clyde Navigation. The Union Canal is 40 feet broad at the top, 20 feet at the bottom, and 5 feet deep. This canal has not yet been productive to such stockholders as have not an mterest in the Forth and Clyde Navigation. The Gamkirk Railway from Glasgow to near Airdrie was par- tially opened on the 2d of July 1831. On 1st February 1832, the locomotive engine, the ^' Glasgow," built by Messrs Johnston and M'Nab of this city, hauled a train of 36 loaded coal waggons 8^ miles, a gross weight of about 145 tons, in 1 hour and 7 minutes, thus cairying a load of twenty times her own weight. This was the first locomotive engine made in Scotland on the improved construction. Stage-Coaches, — Stage-coaches were first used in Scotland in 1678. The first mail-coach from London to Glasgow arrived at the Saracen's Head on Monday the 7th of July 1788. At that period the mail went by Leeds, a distance of 405 miles, and ar- HTed in 65 hours, travelling at nearly 6^ miles in the hour ; in 1835 the mail goes by Wetherby, a distance of 395 miles, and arrives in 41 1 hours. The speed from Carlisle to Glasgow is at the rate of 11 miles an hour. On the 10th of January 1799, Mr John Gard- ner of the Bucks Head, Glasgow, started a coach to Edinburgh with four horses, which performed the journey of 42 miles in 6 hours. The time now occupied on the road by stage-coaches is about 4^ hours. In 1833 there were on an average 61 stage coaches, which de- parted from, and returned to Glasgow, every lawful day. The Diails every day are, — to London, 2; Edinburgh, 12; Paisley, 13; Hamilton, 5 ; Lanark, 3 ; Perth, 2 ; Stirling, 2 ; and to other towns, 22. These coaches were drawn by 183 horses, and 671 horses are kept for them. They accommodated 832 passengers ; riz. inside 284, outside 548. The intercourse with Glasgow by coaches, steam-boats, track- ^% and rail-roads, is so great that it almost exceeds belief. As ^nae of the coaches and steam-boats depart and arrive more than once a-day, and the mail-coaches every day, the following may be ^len as a low average of passengers by stage-coaclics, and steam- boats ; while the others are from the books of the respective com- panies. During 1834, 61 stage-coaches, each averaging twelve passengers, arrived and departed during 313 lawful days. This 206 LANARKSHIRE. gave 458,232 persons in the year. By 37 steam-boats, 25 passen- gers each 579,050; by the swift boats on the Forth and Clyde Na^ vigation and Union Canal, 91,975; by the light iron boats on the Paisley Canal, 307,275 ; by the boats on the Monkland Canal, 31,784; and by the Glasgow and Garnkirk Rail-road, 118,882; the gross number of passengers amounting to 1,587,198. Private Carriages. — Mr Allan Dreghorn, timber-merchant and builder, was the first person who started a private carriage in this city. It was made by his own workmen in 1752. The number of carriages in the city and suburbs charged with duty in 1832 was 402, viz. stage-coaches 61; hackney carriages 140; private carri- ages, 201, viz. with four wheels 114, two wheels 87. The private carriages have increased considerably during the last two years. Relays of post-chaises did not exist in Scotland except on the roads from Edinburgh to London, till the year 1776; and even in England, relays are of comparatively recent date. Mr John Glass- ford and Mr Andrew Thomson Senior, Glasgow merchants, went to London on horseback in the year 1739. At that period there was no turnpike road till they came to Grantham, within 110 miles of London. Up to that point they travelled upon a narrow cause- way, with an unmade soft road upon each side of it; and they met from time to time strings of pack-horses, from thirty to forty in a gang, — the mode by which goods were transported from one part of the country to another. Mitts. — The town mills on the Molendinar Burn, erected about the middle of the fourteenth century, supplied from the Hogganfield and Frankfield lochs, are not of so much use to the inhabitants as they were before steam-mills were introduced. The water and steam-mills on the river Kelvin, at Partick and Clay- slap, belonging to the corporation of bakers, are very extensive, and of a superior construction. The establishment contains a large steam-mill, seven water-wheels, twenty-two pairs of stones, (Bour- deaux Burrs,) six boultin, and three shealing machines. The gra- naries and kilns are proportionate to the mills, which can grind 12,000 bushels of wheat weekly. The bakers got a grant of their old mill at Partick from the Regent Murray, for their services at the battle of Langside on 13th May 1568. The value of the mill property is upwards of L. 50,000. Markets. — The markets for butcher-meat, fish, cheese, butter, &c. have been much neglected of late. The great increase of the town has induced persons at a distance from the markets to GLASGOW. 207 resort to shops. The live-cattle market is, however, an excep- UoD, and is entitled to particular notice. Prior to the year 1818^ tlie principal butchers in this city were frequently obliged to tra- Tel a circuit of seventy or eighty miles to purchase cattle in lots, and to rent expensive parks in the neighbourhood of the city to graze them in; but since the erection of the live-cattle market, the mode of supply is completely changed. In 1818, the magis- trates fitted up a spacious market-place, between the great roads to Edinburgh, by Gallowgate and Duke Street, in which there are a eommodious inn, stables, sheds, a byre to contain 120 bullocks in view, and 260 pens to contain 9360 sheep. This market-place, allowed to be the most complete in the kingdom, occupies an area of 29,560 square yards, or rather more than six imperial acres, is paved with whinstones, and encloseil with stone walls. Since its for- mation, graziers and dealers from Aberdeenshire to Dumfries-shire, and from Berwickshire to Argyleshire, find it their interest to send their cattle to this market, where they find a ready sale, and return in cash. It is admitted that this market has been of great use to all classes of the community, excepting perhaps the more wealthy butchers. The graziers and dealers are benefited by a regular sale, without running the risk of bad debts. The public have a more regular and plentiful supply of butcher-meat of the best quality. The butcher is saved the trouble, and the public, the expense, of travelling. The butcher of small capital, who for- merly had not the means of getting good meat, can now go to market ; and if his capital be equal to the purchase of a bullock, and a dozen of sheep or lambs, he can compete with his more wealthy brethren. Monopoly is now unknown. The dues of the market were let by public sale in 1832 on lease, at L. 1075 per an- num, which leaves an annual profit to the trustees of upwards of 1*500. It was Dr Cleland who projected and established this im- portant market The advantages arising from this market have induced the Irish glaziers to send cattle to it. On the 18th December 1834, the Green Isle steamer arrived in Glasgow from Drogheda, loaded ex- clusively with cattle and pigs. This was the first cattle-carrying steamer that arrived in the Clyde, and the traffic is to be continued. • In 1822, a few rumps of beef were sent by the Edinburgh butchers to the Glasgow market, and this trade has increased so much, that during 1834, 7210 rumps were sent to Glasgow, the average value of each being 20s. Public Buildings, — In a work of this nature, an architectural 208 LANARKSHIRE. description of the public buildings in Glasgow would be superflu- ous. We shall therefore confine ourselves merely to mentioning a few of the most prominent of those appropriated for ecclesiastical purposes, and a few for the civil concerns of the city. For eccle- siastical, the first in order is the Cathedral, which is allowed to be the most splendid edifice of old English architecture that is to be found in Scotland. Its length from east to west is 319 feet, width 63 feet, height of the nave 90 feet, and of the choir 85 feet. In this edifice there are 2 steeples, 147 pillars, and 159 windows of various dimensions, many of them of exquisite workmanship.* * Mr Rickman, the celebrated architect, who gave the design for St David's Church in this city, in his work on Gothic Architecture, dd edit., p. 936, says, ** That the crypt of the cathedral of Glasgow is not equalled by any in the kingdom. The piers and groins are all of the most intricate character, the most beautiful design, and ex- cellent execution. The flowered capitals of the piers are much like those of York.* The choir of the cathedral was renovated several years ago by the corporation, in ft manner which does it great honour, so much so, that it is not too much to say, that the Cathedral Church of Glasgow is unrivalled in Scotland. But to the regret of every man of taste, the magnificent nave has been allowed to get into a state of great dilapidation. The arches, and the tabernacle work, and the images at the rood-loft ftt the cast end are in decay, and the muUions and flowing tracery of the windows in the north and south fa9ades, are in a similar condition. The west end is bounded by ft bare wall, erected 170 years ago, and quite incompatible with the grandeur and ar« chitectural effect of the other parts. Such is the condition of the nave of the Glas- gow cathedraL Instead of its being a groat ornament to the city, it is calculated to im- press strangers with the lowest estimate of the taste and public spirit of the citisens of Glasgow. Impressed with the importance of the measure, Dr Cleland frequently suggested to the public the renovation of the nave, and at length, on the 22d October 1S29, he drew up, printed, and widely circulated, an appeal to his fellow-citizcnsy and com- menced a subscription for this important and i:ecessary work, but owing to an unex- pected difficulty, raised on the part of the Cfown, to whom the edifice bclongtf the pro- jected improvements were postponed. The public mind thus directed, never lost sight of the scheme. In 1832, Mr Archibald M'Lellan, then a member of the town- council, and president of the Dilletanti Society, suggested, in his valuable work on Cathedrals, that the Outer High Church, tlien deeply affected by dry rot, should be abandoned as a place of worship, and restored to the nave. While this magni- ficent scheme would have had no chance of success in 1829, as matters then were, there is now every prospect of its being carried into effect, from the circumstance of that church having, in 1835, been formally declared by two eminent physicians^f unfit for a place of wonhip. The corporation, as proprietors of the seats, having thus no alternative, have commenced the building of a church in High John Street, in lieu of the Outer High Church. The nave, including the space now occu- pied by that church, will then be a receptacle for monuments to departed worth, and the grand entrance to the Cathedral Church. Even in its present dilapidated state, there are monuments in the nave, which would be considered elegant in Westminster Abbey, and worthy of a place in St Paul's Cathedral. There is now every reason to believe that Government will contribute liberally to the renovation of the Cathedral out of the burgh and barony teinds, Dr Cleland hay- ing lately had an opportunity of pointing out the defects to the Right Honourable Sir John Cam Hobhouse, at that time Chief Commissioner of the Woods and Forests, which Board has been lately entrusted with the management of the Crown eccle- siastical edifices. Some time prior to 1 817, his Majesty's Government resolved that in future they would not give a tack of Crown teinds without a fine of three years free tcind. On 5th July 1823, William Smith, Esq. of Carbeth- Guthrie, then Lord Provost, and Dr Cleland at* f Dr Burns and Dr Balmanno. GLASGOW. 209 St Andrew's, St David's, and St Enoch's Churches, and the Al- bion Street, George Street, and Wellington Street Chapels, be- longing to the Dissenters, are fine specimens of architecture. For civil purposes the Royal Exchange is prominent. This build- ing, from designs by Mr David Hamilton, a native of Glasgow, is lemarkable for its beauty, its extent, and its architectural decora- tions. Mr Hamilton was also architect to Hamilton Palace, one of the greatest architectural ornaments in Scotland. The Hun- terian Museum, from designs by Mr William Stark, is a beautiful model of a Greek Temple. The Royal Infirmary by Adams, and the Lunatic Asylum by Stark, are at once ornamental and appro- priate for their respective purposes. Streets and Squares. — The streets, with the exception of some of those in the old part of the town, are all sixty feet wide, and the houses are built of stone and covered with slate. There are four squares, viz. Blythswood's, George's, St Enoch's, and St Andrew's. Tie three former are planted with shrubberry, and St Andrew's Church stands in the centre of the last. Burying Grounds. — There are twenty burying grounds in the city and suburbs.* The Necropolis, formed by the Merchants' House in 1830, in their elevated park adjoining the cathedral, in imitation of the cemetery Pere la Chaise in Paris, stands unrival- led in the kingdom for picturesque effect. tended the Exchequer Court in Edinburgh, and obtained a tack of the tcinds for the corporation and the Barony-heritors on the following terms : Tbree years free teind of the burgh and barony, as ascertained by the lolidtorofteinds, L.7137 11 8 DediKt for ten heritors on cause shown to the court, - - 679 8 Fine paid for the tack of the teinds for 19 years, from 1817, the penod when the last tack expired, - ... L. 6458 3 8 TIm Lords of the Treasury were pleased to allocate from the above sum for repairing the cathedral, L. 30(X) (^t to the Botanic Garden, ... '20()0 5000 ^UsarredbytheTreaswT', but since laid out in repairing the cathedral, L. 1468 3 8 "Hie lease expires in 1836, when there is no doubt a similar fine will be exacted. • ^^Tien the north-west burying ground was formed, it was distant from house's, but nWifrom the great increase of population, it is in the very centre of the city, sur- '"Wnded by houses on all sides, and consequently very offensive to the neighbourhood. Ai it would be a very arduous undertaking to remove a public burying ground, where there are burying places for more than ,'>(X) families, Dr Clcland suggested throwing the whole burying ground into a grand vaulted cemetery, the groined arches sup- porting a floor of upwards of 7000 square yards, to be approjiriated for public purposes. This magnificent scheme, of which a plan was lithographed at the expense of the cor- poration, and widely circulated, would not only relieve the town of a nuisance, but ftom the central situation of the ground, would give an excellent opportunity for ba- au- purposes, while light and air would be preserved for the health of the inhabitants. 210 LANARKSHIRE. Monuments and Statues. — Amongst others may be enumerated an equestrian statue of William III. erected at the cross; an obe- lisk in honour of Lord Nelson, in the Green ; a pedestrian statue of Sir John Moore, in bronze, on a granite pedestal, by Flaxman, in George Square ; a pedestrian statue of William Pitt, in marble^ by Flaxman, in the Town-Hall ; a trophy monument in honour of Lieutenant- Colonel Cadogan, (71st, or Glasgow Regiment,) in marble, by Hamilton, in the nave of the cathedral ; a pillar sur* mounted by a statue in honour of John Knox, by Forrest, in the Necropolis ; a pedestrian statue of James Watt, in bronze, on a granite pedestal, in George Square, by Chantry ; also a pedes- trian statue of James Watt, in marble, by Chantry, in the Hun- terian Museum ; and an architectural monument, with a statue of William M' Gavin, by Forrest, in the Necropolis. It has not yet been determined in what part of the town the monumental column in honour of Sir Walter Scott is to be placed. Theatre. — Previously to the Reformation, and for some time af- terwards, pantomime representations of the history of our Saviour, his miracles, and passion, were exhibited in this city. It does not appear that any theatrical representation was allowed in this city from the Reformation in 1560 till 1750. At the latter period, Mr Burrell's dancing-hall in the High Street was used for that pur- pose, — being four years after the theatre in the Canongate of Edin- burgh was opened, which was the first regular theatre in Scotland after the Reformation. In 1752, a booth or temporary theatre was fitted up adjoining the wall of the archbishop's palace, in which Digges, Love, Stampier, and Mrs Ward performed. Messrs Jack*- son, Love, and Beatc, comedians, built a regular theatre in the Grahamston suburb, which was opened in the spring of 1764 by Mrs Bellamy, and other respectable performers. On the first night of performance, the machinery and scenery were set on fire by some disorderly persons. When the stage was refitted, the theatre was occasionally kept open, but with very indifferent success; and at one o'clock on the morning of the 16th April 1782, it was burnt to the ground. There was no theatre in Glasgow from this period till January 1785, when the Dunlop Street Theatre, erected by Mr Jackson, was opened by Mrs Siddons, Mrs Jourdan, and other per- formers. From this period the taste for theatricals increased so much, that a subscription was set on foot for a theatre upon a large scale ; and on the 24th of April 1805, the most magnificent provin- cial theatre in the empire was opened in Queen Street, at an ex- GLASGOW. 211 pense of L. 18»500. It was let on lease for L. 1200 per anuum ; bm it was soon found that the taste for theatricals did not keep pice with the sums laid out for accommodation and splendour. The premises were then let at the reduced rent of L. 800 to others, who dto failed to implement their engagement, and even when the rent sat lowered to L. 400, it was paid with difficulty. The property vas tlieo sold at a price, only equal to the outstanding debts and gro—d rent, so that the shareholders got nothing. This splendid edifice was bonied to the ground on the forenoon of the 10th of January 1829; a gas light having come in contact with the ceiling of one of the lobbies, leading to the upper gallery. After this catastrophe, the old theatre in Dunlop Street was enlarged and embellished by Mr Alexander ; and is found to be quite large enough for the play-going people of Glasgow and neighbour- hood. Cock'Fighting. — In former times cock-fighting was so prevalent inthispartof the country, that on certain holidays, school-boys pro- vided cocks, and the fight was superintended by the master. But as civilization advanced, this practice gradually disappeared, and at length the amusement in the estimation of many came under the denomination of cruelty to animals. During the latter part of the last and the beginning of the present century, cock-fighting in this city was conducted in a clandestine manner. In 1 807, our cock-fight- ing amateurs, finding a vacant temporary building in Queen Street, made preparations for fighting a main, but when the sport bad just commenced, a portion of the city and county magistrates made their appearance and dismissed the meeting. Since that period maios have occasionally been fought here without the interference of the authorities. Of late, however, the desire for this amusement has so much increased, that in this year (1835) a spacious build- ing has been erected for a cock-pit in Hope Street, on the joint stock principle. This building, which is seated for about 280 per- sons, has suitable accommodation for the judges, handlers, and feed- ers, and is inferior in nothing to the Westminster pit, but in its dimensions. The company who frequent the Glasgow cock-pit do not belong to the " exclusives;" for here we have all grades from the senator it the journeyman butcher. Corporation of Glasgow. — Glasgow was governed by a Provost and Bailies so early as the year 1268. In 1605, the constitution ol the burgh was settled in three distinct bodies, viz. the town- 212 LANARKSHIRE. council, the merchants' and the trades' houses. The town-coun- cil consisted of certain persons from the rank of merchants and trades. In 1801, some alteration was made on the constitution; and from that period till 1833, the corporation consisted of a Provost, five Bailies, twelve Councillors from the merchants, and eleven from the trades rank, a master of work, and a treasurer. The Gorbals and water bailies were chosen from the council, who elected themselves. One-third went out of the council every year, and could not return for three years. The merchants' house sent a list of three persons to the council, from which they elected one to be Dean of Guild ; and in like manner the trades' house, when one of the three was elected convener. Since 1833, when the Burgh Reform Act passed, the Town- Council has been chosen by the Parliamentary constituency, con- sisting of upwards of 7000 persons, who pay a yearly rent of at least L. 10. The city is divided into five wards, each ward elect- ing six Councillors. The Dean of Guild and Convener of the Trades are elected by their respective houses. When added U} the Councillors, they elect a Provost, five Bailies, a Treasurer, and Master of Work; one-third of the Councillors go out of office every year, but may be immediately re-elected. The revenue of the city varies from L. 15000 to L. 16000. Previously to the passing of the Reform Act, the burghs of Glasgow, Rutherglen, Renfrew, and Dumbarton, elected one in- dividual to represent them in Parliament ; but since that act has been in operation, the above-mentioned constituency for Glasgow return two Members to Parliament. The first Members under the Reform Act were Mr James Ewing of Levenside, and Mr James Oswald of Shieldhall, both merchants in Glasgow. In thus giving a brief account of the former and present constitution of the corporation of Glasgow, it has been shewn that the Burgh Reform Act has placed the management of the corporation affairs in the hands of Councillors elected by those who enjoy the ten pound franchise. That the time had arrived when a salutary Reform in the Scotch burghs became necessary is admitted by all who had the good of their country at heart ; abuses in the lapse of ages having crept into the management of many of them. It is, however, gratifying to know, that, for more than a century bypast, the managers of the corporation of Glasgow have been GLASGOW. 213 distinguished for ability, purity of conduct, and integrity in the discharge of their multifarious duties. The city, from having had a mean appearance, is now the most splendid of any manufacturing city or town in the empire. Nor has their exertions been confin- ed only to the embelUshment of the city; for trade, commerce, and numerous benevolent institutions have prospered in their hands, and when they surrendered their trust to the Reformed Town-Council in November 1833, the funds were in a flourishing condition. Several years ago, when that able and indefatigable reformer. Lord Archibald Hamilton, advocated Burgh Reform in the Housed of G>mmons, his Lordship stated in the Committee of which he was Chairman, that the affairs of the city of Glasgow were con- ducted in the most honourable and open manner. Indeed, the fiiitbful and disinterested management of the corporation concerns of Glasgow has long been acknowledged all over the country. Of the Reformed Town- Council the citizens of Glasgow have not yet had much experience. There is, however, one part of their conduct, which, as we consider it an evil, we animadvert upon, in the hope of repressing it in their successors. Some of the coun- cillors, unwarily, or it may be from ambition, pledged themselves to certain measures, and thereby became delegates of a party, instead of being representatives of the whole community. This is to be regret- ted the more, as a majority of the council have suspended a part of the local taxes for a purpose not affecting the general interest. Should this measure be carried into effect, which the best informed consider illegal, it will necessarily prevent their successors from improving the city, building churches, reducing church seat-rents for the poor, maintaining market-places, gaols, and other local ser- vices, — for which such taxes were long since granted by royal au- thority or legislative enactment. It was to be expected that, in a great community like this, there would be some political demagogues who, intoxicated by the power conferred on them by the Burgh Reform Act, would abuse it ; but let us indulge the hope, that, when the political effervescence has had time to subside, the electors and elected will join hand ip hand for the public good without respect to political party, and that the future councillors, like many of those now intrusted with the munici- pal concerns of the city, will be men of integrity and honourable feeling, whose every effort will be to promote the good of the com- munity. LANARK. P 214 LANARKSHIRE. Gaol and CourUHouses. — For a number of years previous to 1807, the gaol at the cross had become deficient in almost every requisite. Situated in the centre of the city, without court-yards, chapel, or infirmary, it contained no more than thirty-two apart- ments for the accommodation of prisoners of every description, col- lected occasionally from the populous counties of Lanark, Renfrew, and Dumbarton, and invariably at the justiciary circuits, — having very slender accommodation for the local courts of justice, whilst that for the circuit court of justiciary was quite inadequate. Im- pressed with the necessity of affording more suitable accommoda- tion for the courts of justice, and more convenient and healthful apartments for prisoners, the magistrates and council, on the Idth of February 1807, resolved to erect a new gaol and public offices in a healthy situation adjoining the river, at the bottom of the pub- lic green. This building, which cost L. 34,800, contains, exclu- sively of the public offices, 122 apartments for prisoners. As there is a water-closet in each gallery, every individual prisoner, debtor and delinquent, has access to one of them, and to an unli- mited supply of pure filtered water from the Water Company's pipes ; and pipes are introduced into each court, from which they are daily washed, and the air in them frequently cooled in hot weather. There are two rooms, with anti-rooms, insulated from the gaol, for persons under sentence of death, and so constructed, that irons are never used. It is believed that this is the only pri- son in the kingdom where persons under sentence of death are not put in irons. Every room is provided with the necessary uten- sils at the expense of the corporation. There is a well-aired In- firmary room, though it is seldom used, from the healthiness of the prisoners ; and the chapel is seated to contain about 200 persons. The governor's house is so constructed, that, from his sitting par- lour, he can overlook both court-yards. The justiciary hall is so spacious as to contain about 500 persons. It is^ however, much, to be regretted that there are some radical defects in this gaoL The number of incarcerations in the gaol for debt has of late years happily decreased, whilst the incarcerations for delinquency have been rather on the increase. In 1831, it was ascertained for Government that there were 630 persons incarcerated for debt, viz. on Justice of Peace decrees, 110; Sheriff's decrees, 287; acts of warden, 61 ; letters of cap- tion, 150; warrants medit.fugce^ 22. For delinquency, 758; viz. on criminal warrants, 679; deserted GLASGOW. 215 from the army, 42 ; lawburrows, 1 1 ; breach of sequestration, 9 ; breach of servitude, 5 ; breach of game-laws, I ; Crown debtors, BOW classified with delinquents, 1 1. During the last seven years there have been no deaths among the debtors, and only 4 among the delinquents. The average number of delinquents committed yearly during five years, ending on the 31 st December 1834, was 667. From 1765 to 1830, 89 persons were executed in Glasgow, of which Dumber 5 were females. During the first 12 years there were only 6 persons executed, whilst in the last 12 there were 37. During 86 years previously to 1831, there were 26 in which there were no executions, 15 in which there was 1 each year; ten, 2; seven, 3; four, 4; one, 5; and two in which there were 6. From the 29th of September 1830, to the 20th of January 1834, 12 persons have been executed in Glasgow, viz. 1 1 males, and 1 female ; of whom 6 were for murder, 1 for rape, 1 for hamesucken, 1 for robbery, and 3 for housebreaking and theft. From the 4th of May 1818, to the 8th of October 1834, 6 persons received sentence of death, but had their punishment commuted to transportation for life, viz. 4 males and 2 females ; of whom 1 for murder, 1 for hamesucken tod rape, 1 for robbery, and 1 for housebreaking and theft ; the two imales for issuing forged bank notes. BridewelL — The Bridewell in Duke Street was opened on the 8th of May 1798, and supported by the corporation funds for up- wards of twenty-four years. This building, which still remains, consists of six stories, and contains 105 cells. Although but ill toiled for classification, it answered the purpose for a number of years; but^ from the great increase of population, and consequently of crime, in the city and county, it was agreed that the new build- ings should be so large as to contain the city and county prisoners, combining the improvements which experience had pointed out. The authorities having procured an act of Parliament for assessing the city and county for building and maintaining a Bridewell, they ^ected a set of buildings so well suited for the purpose, as to be the admiration of all who have made prisons and prison-discipline their study. This prison, which adjoins the former one, was open- ed on the 25th of December 1824. It combines all the advantages of modem improvement, security, seclusion, complete classifi^ca- tioD, and healthful accommodation. The commitments in 1834 were as follows : 216 LANARKSHIRE. Males above 17 yean of age, .... 815 Males below 17 yeats of age, . - - 222 1035 Females above 1 7 years of age, - - - - 864 Females below 1 7 years of age, - _ - 68 dS2 Total commitments, - - . 1967 Remained on 2d of August 1833, .... 356 Prisoners in all, .... 2323 Liberated during the year, . - . - - 2030 Remaining on 2d of August 1834, - 293 The average number daily in the prison was 320 ; viz. males, 162; females, 158. Abstract accounts for the year ended 2d of August 1834. To repairs on the buildings, ... L.*156 10 Salaries and wages, .... 835 14 11 L.992 4 II By amount of prisoners' labour, &c. - - L. 2182 6 2 To victuals, bedding, cloaths, washing, me- dicine, coal, candle, furniture, machinery utensils, stationery, &c. - - J 664 6 Cash paid prisoners for surplus earnings, 116 5 3 1780 11 3 Surplus to be deductedfrom salaries and wages, 401 14 II Balance, being the cost of Bridewell for the year ended 2d August 1834, L. 590 10 It appears from the above statement, that, besides the sum of L. 116, 5s. 3d. paid to inmates, the produce of the work perform- ed maintained all the prisoners, with a surplus of L. 401, 14s. lid. — which surplus goes to lessen the expense of repairs on the build- ings, and the salaries and wages. The whole deficiency, amount- ing to L.590, 10s. divided by 1967, the number committed, shews that the net expense to the public for every committal is no more than 6s., the average period of residence being 59J days. Taking another view, the deficiency of L. 590, 10s. when applied to 320, the daily average of inmates, shews the expense of each prisoner to be L. 1, 16s. lid. per annum, 2s. lOd. per month, or about 8^d. weekly. This distinguished establishment, so creditable to the city and county, while inferior to no prison for discipline and cleanliness, is conspicuous for the economy^ with which it is managed. The bare * The following abstract statement of the General Penitentiary at MiUbank, Middlesex, taken from the report of a committee, whereof the Right Hon. Lord Bexley was chairman, (ordered to be printed by the House of Commons on 10th of March 1831 ,) may be contrasted with the foregoing statement of the Glasgow Bride- well. On 31 St December 1830, there were in the Penitentiary 566 prisoners, vii. males, 405; females, 161. GLASGOW, 217 recital of the foregoing facts forms a high pauegyric on the talents and industry of Mr Brebner, the governor. House of Refuge. — During the last thirty years, several attempts have been made in this city to reclaim vagrant boys, but hitherto without effect This arose chiefly from the youths being already confirmed in evil habits, and from the want of an asylum and rigid superintendence. To abate this moral pestilence, a subscription has lately been entered into, which now exceeds L. 10,500, for the erection of a permanent House of Refuge in this city. Four acres of the lands of White-hill have been purchased, and a plan by Mr John Bryce, architect, combining all the recent improvements, has been adopted. To those who, like us, have long witnessed the de- pravity of a class of society to be found in all large manufacturing communities, this announcement must give great satisfaction, and to none more than to the Right Honourable the Lord Justice- Clerk, (Boyle,) who so often from the Bench, in lamenting the number and depravity of young thieves, recommended a house of refuge. The number of orphans, and, what is even worse, the number of children of depraved parents, thrown on the public without any one to take care of them, almost exceeds belief. A great propor- tion of these children are brought up in ignorance, in idleness, and vice, without the fear of God, and very little of man- To prevent those evils in the very young, and to mitigate those in more ad- vanced years, is the benevolent object of the managers of this in- stitution. While the infant and Sunday schools are thrown open to children Eipense of the establishment, to the total amount of expenses incurred between the 1st of January and dlst of December 1830, including the necessary repairs on the building, and the sum of L. 195, Ids. lid. for shoring the boundary wall, and 1*765, 10s. calculated for wages to the prisoners employed in the general service of the establishment, - - - L.20612 7 I^uct three-fourths of L. 765, 10s. allowed for pri- soners* wages, they being paid only one-fourth there- of) and the whole amount of such wages being in- cluded in the above sum of L. 20612, 7s., - 574 8 1 1 Gross expense, - - ■ L.200«)7 18 1 8y three- fourths of earnings of prisoners employed in manufactureitkstimatcd at the usual rate, • - 2197 13 10 Net expense, - - - - L. 17840 4 3 To vfaich add the amount of articles supplied by his Majesty's Stationery Office, 143 2 9 L. 17983 7 Mr Potter Macqucen, M. P. in his pamphlet on prisons, states, that the average expense of a culprit in the Millbank Penitentiary, in the years 1818-19-20-21, was 1^55, 15a. ; and Mr Crawford, in his report to the House of Commons in August 18S4, shews that prisoners in the county gaol of Lincoln cost L. 32 per head. 218 LANARKSHIRE. of this class of society, an asylum in the House of Refuge will be found for those in more advanced years, — where moral and religious instruction will be communicated, and mechanical trades learned, by which, with the fostering care of the managers, while in the asy- lum, and after they leave it, they may become useful members of society. Police. — Till the appointment of a statutory police in 1800, the citizens of Glasgow performed the duties of watching and ward- ing. The buildings in Albion Street are very extensive, and were the first in Scotland erected for the exclusive purpose of police. Of the concerns of the establishment, which is placed under the management of the magistrates, and one commissioner for each of 35 wards chosen by the rate payers, the following is an abstract for 1834: Disburseiitents L. 15,033, 13s. 6^d. The receipts arise from Is. per pound on rents exceeding L. 15, and on lower rents less proportionally. Besides the superintendent, collector, clerk, surveyor, and surgeon, there are 8 heads of departments, 3 lieute- nants, 58 officers, 135 night-watchmen, 8 coal weighers, 21 lamp- lighters, 50 firemen, and 20 supernumeraries ; in all 308 persons on the establishment There are 2050 gas lamps with single jets, and 47 with 3 jets ; in all 2097 lamps. Of this number between 800 and 900 are taken down in the summer months. Bridges. — Bridges are a sort of edifices very difficult to execute, on account of the inconvenience of laying foundations, and wall- ing under water. There are three stone bridges, and one timber bridge over the Clyde at Glasgow, exclusive of Rutherglen stone bridge at Barrowfield in the Barony parish. The original timber bridge over the Clyde having gone into de- cay about the year 1340, Bishop Rae built a stone bridge at Stockwell Street in 1345. The bridge was originally twelve feet wide, and consisted of eight arches. In 1777 an addition of ten feet was made to its breadth, and two of the northmost archesj built up for the purpose of confining the river within narrower bounds. The communication between the city and the south- west parts of Scotland for more than 400 years was by this bridge. In 1820-21, it was greatly improved by the formation of footpaths, suspended on very tasteful iron framings. The bridge as it now stands is 415 feet long, and 34 wide within the railing. The foundation stone of the Jamaica Street Bridge was laid on the 29th of September 1768, by the Right Worshipful Provost George Murdoch, acting provincial grand master mason for Glasgow. GLASGOW. 219 The bridge had seven arches, was 30 feet wide within the parapets, and 500 feet in length. The design was given by Mr William Mylne, architect in Edinburgh, and executed by Mr John Adam. The foundation stone of Hutcheson's Bridge was laid in 1794, by Provost Gilbert Hamilton, near the foot of Salt Market Street, to connect the lands of Hutchesontown with the city. It had five arches, was 406 feet long, and 26 feet wide within the parapets. On the 18th of November 1795, during an uncommonly high flood in the river, it was unfortunately swept away, after the pa- rapets were nearly completed. The foundation stone of a new bridge for Hutchestown was laid on the 18th of August 1829, by the Right Worshipful Robert Dalglish, substitute grand master mason for Glasgow, and precep- tor of the hospital. This bridge is built on the site' of the for- mer one, from a design by Mr Robert Stevenson, civil-engineer ; it b 36 feet wide within the parapets, 406 feet long, and has five arches. Mr John Stedman, contractor. The Timber Bridge at Portland Street, erected in 1832, is 30 feet wide within the railing, has a carriage way and two side pave- ments. It was designed by Mr Robert Stevenson, civil-engineer. Mr William Robertson, contractor. The increase of trade and population in the city and adjacent districts having been such as to render the Jamaica Street or Broomielaw Bridge unfit for its purposes, the trustees resolved to remove it, and to erect in its stead a bridge which would afford more suitable accommodation, such as the increasing population of the neighbouring districts required. Having obtained an act of Parliament, they procured a design from Mr Thomas Telford, ci- vfl-engineer, and contracted with Messrs John Gibb and Son, for building the bridge. It is faced with Aberdeen granite, and has a very gentle acclivity. It is 560 feet long over the newals, and 60 feet wide over the parapets ; it has seven arches, and is wider than any river bridge in the kingdom. To commemorate the rebuilding of this bridge it was resolved that the foundation stone should be laid with masonic honours. Dr Cleland having been requested to act as grand director of the ceremonial, preparations were made on a magnificent scale. Ha- nng procured a commission for the Lord Provost to lay the foun- dation stone, from the Right Worshipful Henry Monteith of Car- stairs, provincial grand-master for Glasgow, the director request- ed the very Reverend Principal Macfarlan to preach the sermon 220 LANARKSHIRE. in the cathedral, the Rev. Dr Macleod of Campsie, to act as grand- chaplain, and Mr Watson, superintendent of police, as grand-mar- shal. In addition to the civic and ecclesiastical authorities of the city, the procession was honoured by the Magistrates of the following burghs, viz. Rutherglen, Irvine, Renfrew, Paisley, Hamilton, Gorbals, Port- Glasgow, Greenock, Pollock- Shaws, Calton, Air- drie, Anderston. Besides the Grand Lodge of Scotland, thirty-two provincial mason lodges attended the procession in all the splen- dour of the craft.* The details of this ceremonial, the most splendid that ever took place in Glasgow, have been preserved in a pamphlet, printed at the expense of the Trustees. Banks. — The Bank of Scotland was established by charter in Edinburgh in 1695, and the following year in Glasgow; but was recalled for want of business in 1697. In 1731, it was again esta- blished in Glasgow, and recalled in 1733, from a similar cause. In 1749, the Ship Bank commenced business. This was the first bank belonging to the city ; and till lately it was called the Old Bank. Since 1749, a number of banks have been established in Glasgow. The Glasgow Arms Bank commenced business about the year 1753, the Thistle Bank in 1761, and the Glasgow Mer- chants' Bank, and Messrs Watson's and Thomson's banking-houses were formed shortly afterwards. The Royal Bank of Scotland, which was established by charter in Edinburgh in 1727, sent a branch to Glasgow in 1783. The Glasgow Banking Company com- • The following is the inscription on a metallic plate deposited in the foundation stone : Broomielaw Bridge, Glasgow. The foundation-stone of a bridge across the Clyde at Jamaica Street, was laid on 29th September I7t>8 ; and to afiurd more suitable accommodation, such as the increas- ing population and trade of the city and adjacent districts required, it was re- moved, and By the favour of Almighty God, the Hon. James Ewing, LL. D. F. R. S. Lord Provost, and one of the Representatives in Parliament for the city, Laid the foundation-stone of this Bridge On the third day of .September Anno Domini m.dccc.xxxhi. iEra of masonry 5833, In the fourth year of the reign of our most Gracious Sovereign William IV. Assisted by the Grand Lodge of Scotland and thirty-two provincial lodges, and by James Cleland. Esq. LL. D. Grand Director of the masonic ceremonial, in presence of the public bodies of the city, and neighbouring districts. Thomas Telford, Esq. F. 11. S. L. and E. Architect for the Bridge; Charles Ather- ton, Esq., resident engineer ; Messrs John Gibb and Son, contractors. Which undertaking may the Supreme Architect of the Universe bless and prosper. GLASGOW. 221 menced operations id 1809, the Glasgow Union Banking Company in 1890, and the Western Bank in 1832. These banks, with the exception of the Arms, Merchants, Thomson's, and Watson's, still continue to do business in Glasgow. There are also in Glas- gow a branch of the British Linen chartered bank, and fourteen branches from provincial banks. Provident Bank. — A provident or savings bank was opened in Gla^ow on the Sd of July 1815, wherein deposits of Is. and up- wards are received, bearing interest at the rate of two and a-half per cent., when the sum amounts to 12s. 8d., and has lain one month in the bank. The following is a statement of the concerns of the bank for 1834. It is open every day for deposits, and twice a-week for payments. Amount of open accounts at the end of the year, - L. 39,861 4 Received from depositors, exclusive of interest allowed during the year, dO>767 3 7 RqMud to depositors, including interest, during ditto, • 30,402 11 Interest allowed to depositors during ditto, - - 964 1 1 10 Fhnn the commencement of the bank on 3d July 1815, to the end of the year 1834, number of accounts opened, - - 24,039 Amount of interest paid to depositors from commencement of the bank, to the end of year 1834, - - . 10,662 18 At the end of the year 1834, open accounts under L. 5, — 1380. It is very gratifying to know, that, during nineteen years, the working-classes in Glasgow have so managed their savings, as to entitle them to L. 10,662, 18s. interest, which, but for this insti- tution, might have been laid out for purposes quite unavailing in the hour of need. The country generally, and the industrious classes particularly, lie under deep obligations to the Rev. Dr Duncan of Ruthwell, the founder of the provident bank scheme. Post'Office. — The arrangements of this office are not surpassed, if indeed equalled, by any out of London. In 1806, when Mr Bannatyne was appointed post-master, the establishment consisted of a post-master, 3 clerks, a stamper, and 6 letter-carriers ; and there were 4 penny post-offices attached to it for the delivery and receipt of letters in the neighbouring district. Receiving-houses in the town for letters to be taken to the post-office had been tried, and had been given up on finding that they were not used. There were two deliveries of letters made daily to every part of the town and suburbs. The Glasgow establishment in 1835 consists of a post-master, 10 clerks, 2 stampers, a superintendent of letter-car- riers, and 19 letter-carriers; and there are 26 penny post-offices, and 9 sub-offices attached to it, for the correspondence of the sur- rounding district. It has 12 receiving-houses distributed in the different parts of the town, the letters put into which are carried 222 LANARKSHIRE. to the post-office, to be made up in the separate lioes of maik, as they are successively dispatched. There are four complete de- liveries of letters now made daily to every part of the town and suburbs ; and an answer may be received the same day to a penny post letter put into the office, or a receiving -house, in time to be sent out with either of the two first deliveries. Post-office revenue of Glasgow at the follouying dates. la 1781, . L. 4^1 4 9 In 1830, . L. 34,978 9 04 1810, 27,598 6 1831, . 85,642 19 5 1815, . 34,784 16 1832, . 86,053 1820, . 31,533 2 3 1833, . 36,481 1825, . 34,190 1 7 1834, . 37,483 3 44 QiMittr ending 5tb April 1834, - L. 9189 6 10 5th July, - 9227 19 5 5th October, 9365 15 24 5th January 1835, - 9700 1 11 Gross revenue for the year, L. 37483 3 44 The number of penny post letters for Glasgow delivery, exclu- sively of those delivered through the 26 out-penny offices, was, from October 1833 to October 1834, 192,491 ; and the amount of the revenue derived from them, L. 802, Os. 1 Id. When it is con- sidered, that, in 1833, the revenue was only L. 1700 more than in 1815, whilst the population had increased in the same period up- wards of 72,000, and the increase of correspondence in a still greater ratio, we are led to believe that the revenue is greatly defrauded by private carrying. Rental and Stamps. — The rental of the city and suburbs in 1834 was L. 539,466. Amount of stamps sold in 1828, L. 91,213; in 1830, L.103,802; in 1834, L. 11 0,930. Water Companies. — Prior to 1804, the city was scantily supplied by twenty-nine public, and a few private wells. In 1806, the Glas- gow Water Company was incorporated, and in 1808 the Cranston Hill Company. From their commencement, till 31st May 1830, the companies had laid out L. 320,244, 10s. Id. on their works, which are now considerably extended. In 1831 there were 38,237 renters of water in the city and suburbs. Rates for 1834: Houses rented under L. 4, 5s. per annum ; ditto L. 4 and under K 5, 6s. ; L. 5 and not above L. 6, 7s. 6d. ; all above L. 6, 6^ per cent., or Is. 3d. per pound'on rental. Public works ; high service, i.e. in the more elevated parts of the city, L. 12, 10s. for 1000 gallons per day ; low service L. 6, ditto ; workmen for drinking, 6d. per head ; founderies Is. per man ; lowest charge for a public work, L. 4. Counting-houses, 5s. to 10s. 6d. ; water-closets in ditto, 5s. to lOs. 6d. ; horses, 4s. ; cows, 3s. 4 GLASGOW. 223 Anunmt of Butcher-Meat^ Bread and Milk, contumed in GUu- gaw. — As the office of Parliamentary Hide Inspector has lately been abolished, the amount of butcher-meat consumed in Glasgow can- not be ascertained with accuracy; we have therefore taken the amount for 1822, from Dr Cleland's folio Statistical Work, when the population was 147,043. BoBocks, 14,566. ATeng^ 28 stones tron/ 407,848, at 78. L. 142,746 16 CUtcs, 8,557, Do. do. at d6s. 15,402 12 Sheep, 57,52C^ Tki. do. 20s. 57,520 Lambs, 68,647, Do. do. 6s. 20,591 2 Sviacb 6^599, Do. do. 20s. 6,539 .L. 242,799 10 Tallov. hides and ofikls, particulars dctatled, 61,179 4 5 Total value of carcases, tallow, hides, &c. L. 303,978 14 5 Bread.— An 1822, there were 64,853 sacks of flour baked in the dtj and stUinrbs, equal to 5,317,996 quartern loaves, which at 8d.b - - - - - 177,266 10 8 WiQc In 1822, there were 1230 cows, each cow through the jear supposed to produce on an average 6 Scotch pints of milk daily, equal to 2,693,700 pints of 105 cubic inches, in the year, at 6d. per pint, is - - - - 67,342 10 L. 548,587 15 1 For increased oonsumpt from 1822 to 1835, supi>osc 15 per cent. 82,288 3 3 Supposed value of butcher-meat, bread and milk in 1835, L. 630,875 18 4 Public Green, — There is probably no town of equal extent in the empire which can boast of such a park as the Green of Glas- gow, whether we consider its extent, its use to the inhabitants in its walks, its wells, and its trees, or its picturesque effect on the bank of a beautiful river. The sheep park at the bottom, and the ride and drive of two and a-half miles, give an air of grandeur to the whole. The Green contains 136 imperial acres, and there is grass growing on it now, where grass never grew before. The pre- sent state of this splendid park forms a great contrast with what it was before its improvements were intrusted to Dr Cleland. Twen- ty years ago, the surface of the Low Green was inundated by every swell in the river. The Calton Green was separated from the High Green by the Camlachie Burn, and the High Green from Provost's Haugh by a deep gott or ditch, from which issued nume- rous springs, all of which are now contained in spacious tunnels. The Calton Green and the Haugh were so much destroyed by powerful springs, that, even with the assistance of open drains, the Green was so soft, as frequently to prevent walking on it even in the greatest drought, while in soft weather it was utterly impassable. * A Glacgow tron stone contained 16 lbs. of 224 ounces. Meat is now sold by the imperial stone of 14 lbs. of 1 6 ounces. 224 LANARKSHIRE. The Camlachie Burn, which was formed into a dam for moving ma- chinery to raise water from the river for the use of the washing- house then opposite to Charlotte Street, being frequently stagnant in the summer months, became very offensive. At that period the only entries to the Green from the west were by crooked lanes from the Salt Market Street and the slaughter-house. At the bottom of the Green, now the site of the public offices, the corporation of skinners had a triple range of tan-pits supplied by filthy water from the Molendinar Burn, which ran open in the middle of a narrow street, and the slaughter-house was placed immediately to the west of the tan-pits on the bank of the river, now East Clyde Street, The dung of the slaughter-house, and the intestines of slaughter- ed animals were collected in heaps, and allowed to remain for months, long after putrefaction had taken place. A glue-work and a manufactory of therm from the intestines of animals recently slaughtered ; and rees fitted up for the retail of coals and culm, — completed the nuisance. The bank of the river, east from the Stock well Street Bridge was used by the police as a receptacle for the filth of the streets. Coal in the Green, — Unsuccessful attempts having been made from time to time to find coal in the lands belonging to the cor- poration, Dr Cleland procured permission to make the experiment of boring in the green. He began by erecting a temporary building, into which none were admitted but two operatives and occasionally a mining engineer. The operation of boring commenced on 18th December 1821, and ended on 17th September 1822, — the chis- el during that period having gone through various strata to the depth of 366 feet 1 inch, including various seams of coal. A re- gular daily journal of these operations he embodied in a report, ac- companied with folio engraved plans and sections exhibitingr the extent of the coal field, and the thickness of seven seams found in the bore, viz. mossdale, rough ell, rough main, humph, splint ell, splint main, and sour-milk, containing in whole about 1,500,000 tons; so that if the output was restricted to 15,000 tons annually, the coal field in the Glasgow Green would last 100 years. Although Dr Cleland has shown, and eminent mining engineers have subse- quently certified, that the corporation of Glasgow is possessed of this valuable property, we have no desire in the present state of the funds, to see the beautiful green cut up even with a single coal-pit. It appears from the Rev. Mr Bowers' account of Old Monkland in the former Statistical Account of Scotland, that, in 1792, Mr GLASGOW. 225 Hamilton erected the first steam engine in Scotland at Barrachine for drawing up coals from a pit. Mr Dixon's " Fire- Work" coal pit takes its name from its being the first of the Glasgow pits where coal was drawn up by fire or steam. * That the citizens of Glasgow have ever been loyal, patriotic^ and generous, may be collected from the foregoing brief account of the city. When the country was sufiering under civil war they raised an armed force in defence of their civil and religious liber- ties, and when menaced by the enemies of their country, they stood nobly forward in its defence. In times of local distress their liber- aKty knows no bounds, and their support of religious and benevo- lent institutions has never been surpassed in any community. That the citizens of Glasgow have done honour to departed worth, re- ference is made to the statues and monuments erected in their city, and that their gratitude is not confined to the dead will be shewn from the following splendid acts : Mr James Dennistoun, of Golf hill, one of his Majesty's Deputy- lieutenants for the county of Lanark, manager and principal part- ner of the Glasgow Banking Company, retired from business in 1829. On that occasion a number of the principal inhabitants of the city and neighbourhood, taking into consideration the high character which Mr Dennistoun bore in the community, and the estimation in which he was held by all classes, resolved to request his acceptance of a public dinner as a mark of their esteem and regard. Mr Dennistoun having accepted the profered compli- ment, the dinner was given in the great hall of the Royal Ex- change Buildings on 2d December 1829. The Honourable Alex- ander Garden of Croy, Lord Provost in the Chair, Samuel Hun- ter, Esquire, Croupier, and thirty-six gentlemen of the first re- spectability acted as Stewards. Long before the chair was taken upwards of four hundred gentlemen had taken their places, f * It is a curious fact, which we bclieye is not generally known, that, previous to the year 1776, all colliers and other persons employed in coal works in Scotland, ''ere, by the common law of the land, in a state of slavery. Tlicy and their wives sod children, if they had assisted for a certain period at a coal work, became the pro- perty of the coal master, and were transferable with the coal work, in the same man- ner as the slaves on a West Indian estate were till lately held to be property, and transferred on a sale of the estate. Besides the law founded on the usage of the country and decisions of the courts, sundry Scotch statutes were enacted for regulat- ing this description of slavery. t At six o*clock the Lord Provost entered the hall, accompanied by Mr Dennis- toun, Sir John Maxwell of Polloc, Bart., Mr Campbell of Blythswood, M. P., Mr 226 LANARKSHIRE. The company, which was most respectable, was composed of all political parties. As the festivial was given in honour of the pri- vate virtues of a most excellent man, politics were excluded. The object in view, the respectability of the company, the talent dis- played in the speeches, and the sumptuousness of the entertain- ment, were never surpassed in this city.* A number of the inhabitants of Glasgow, " taking into their con- sideration that Dr Cleland, who had recently retired from pub- lic life, had discharged the arduous duties of an important office for upwards of twenty years, with honour to himself and great be- nefit to the community," called a public meeting, which was held on the 7th August 1834, when it was unanimously resolved that some mark of public approbation should be given to him. Ac- cordingly, the magnificent sum of L. 4603, 6s. was subscribed in a few weeks by 285 individuals of all grades of society, from his Grace the chief of the Scottish nobility to the industrious artisan. The committee of subscribers are now erecting an ornamental build- ing in Buchanan Street, which is to be handed down as an heir- loom in the family of him on whom they have conferred the dis- tinguished and unprecedented honour. The building is designated " The Cleland Testimonial." Maxwell, Younger of Polloc, M. P., Mr Robinson, Sheriff of the county, Mr Mon- teith of Carstairs, Mr Finlay of Castletoward, Mr Ewing of Levenside, Mr Camp- bell of Ballimore, Mr Dalglish, preceptor of Hutchison's Hospital, the Very Reve- rend Principal Macfarlan, the Reverend Professor Macgill, the Reverend Profesaor Chalmers, Mr Dennistoun of Dcnnistoun, Mr Fergus of Slrathorn, Mr Stirling of Kenmure, Mr Houldsworth of Cranstonhill, Mr Buchanan of Dowanhill, Mr Smith of Car beth- Guthrie, Mr Dunn of Dui^tocher, Mr Alston of Auchinraich, Mr Mae- farlan of Kirkton, Mr Kincaid of Kincaid, &c. &c. * The speech of the Lord Provost, in proposing the toast of the day, was distin- guished for fine feeling and graceful delivery, and the writer cannot resist the oppor- tunity to add the following part of it. Afler some introductory rempxks his Lord- ship said, << We are assembled this evening to pay a tribute to the excellence of the character of the guest on my right, and certainly I hazard nothing when I say, that never was tribute more rightly deserved, or more sincerely offered, for the manifes- tation of our admiration of such genuine worth is alike due to him, and honourable to ourselves. Johnson said of Burke, that no one could by chance take shelter with him in a shed to shun a shower, without perceiving that he was a great man. Now it may be said of Mr Dennistoun with truth, that no one could meet him, however trivial the occasion, without perceiving that he was a good man. But I am well aware, Gentlemen, that you all know the estimable qualities for which our friend is so much beloved ; that you all know his warmth of heart, his social kindness, his unassuming, but manly manner, his liberality in business, and his generosity in friendship : and I feel most confident, that I speak not only the sentiments of every one present, but af every one who has the good fortune to know Mr Dennistoun, when I assert, that, if ever a man possessed the full and undivided esteem and respect of society during a long period of active usefulness, it was Mr Dennistoun, and if ever a man carried with him to the great enjo3rments of domestic life, the affectionate good wishes of all» it was Mr Dennistoun ; and. Gentlemen, I shall only add, because it is to the honour of humanity, that I do believe Mr Dennistoun is without an enemy." GLASGOW. 227 Miscellaneous Observations. Attract view of the State ofSociett/ in Glasgow at various periods. From 1500 to 1550. — Prior to this time the inhabitants of this city and neighbourhood were governed by churchmen, who kept them in such a state of ignorance and superstition as was truly de- plorable. Towards the end of this period the principles of the Uxorious Reformation began to be acknowledged, when it pleased God to raise up powerful agents in Edinburgh and Glasgow in the persons of Knox and Melville. Froml550 to 1600. — During this period the Reformation took place. The great body of the people, however, still retained their fierce and sanguinary disposition. This is strikingly marked in their being constantly armed. Even their ministers were accoutred in the pdpit. The number of murders, cases of incest, and other crimi- oal acts which were turned over to the censures of the church, but too plainly point out the depraved character of the people. From 1600 to ]650. — The distinguishing character of the people during this division of time is marked by a certain malignity of disposition. Their belief in and treatment of witches, second- sight, &c afford strong symptoms of superstition grounded on ig- Dorance ; and the profanation of the Sabbath, by working and riot- ing CD that day, displays gross profanity. From 1650 to 1700. — During the beginning of this period and the end of the former, the people, who had become more civiliz- ed, and paid more attention to moral and religious duties, were dreadfully harassed and persecuted by an intolerant government, who seemed determined to enforce a form of religion which was bimical to the people. The abdication of James XL, and with him the exclusion of the Stuart family, brought about the happy Revolu- tion, which put au end to the religious troubles. The union with England, which took place soon after this period, opened up a spirit for trade hitherto unknown in this city, and the increase of population is truly astonishing. In 1774, at the induction of the Rev. Dr Burns, the Barony parish did not con- tain 8000 souls, — its population now amounts to 85,385. This venerable and justly respected minister, (who it is believed is now the father of the Church of Scotland, ) has exercised the ministerial functions in the Barony parish for a period of sixty-five years, viz. four years as assistant to Mr Laurence Hill, and sixty-one as the mi- nister of the largest parish in Scotland. Dr Burns has served a cure for a longer period than has fallen to the lot of any Presbyterian or 228 LANARKSHIRE. Episcopalian clergyman in this city since the Reformation in 1560, and there has been no Roman Catholic bishop or archbishop since the renovation of the see in 1 129, who held his office for such a length of time. This is a proof of good health and a sound con- stitution. But, what is of more importance to his parishioners, he unites evangelical principles with the meekness of a true Christian. His popularity, which increased through a prolonged life, was that which arises from a faithful discharge of duty. About two years ago (then in his ninetieth year) he retired from the more active duties of his station. In 1829 the Crown appointed Dr Black to be his assistant and successor, — an appointment which gave entire satisfaction to the minister and the parishioners. " At the commencement of the eighteenth century, and during the greater part of the first half of it, the habits and style of living of the citizens of Glasgow were of a moderate and frugal cast The dwelling-houses of the highest class of citizens in general contain- ed only one public room, a dining room, and even that was used only when they had company, — the family at other times usually eating in a bed-room. The great-grandfathers and great-grandmothers of many of the present luxurious aristocracy of Glasgow, and who. were themselves descendants of a preceding line of burgher patri- cians, lived in this simple manner. They had occasionally their relations dining with them, and gave them a few plain dishes, put on the table at once, holding in derision the attention, which they said, their neighbours, the English, bestowed on what they ate. After dinner the husband went to his place of business, and, in the evening, to a club in a public-house, where, with little expense, he enjoyed himself till nine o'clock, at which hour the party uni- formly broke up, and the husbands went home to their families. " The wife gave tea at home in her own bed-room, receiving there the visits of her " cummers," (female acquaintances,) and a great deal of intercourse of this kind was kept up, the gentlemen seldom making their appearance at these parties. This meal was term- ed the ^^ four hours,^* Families occasionally supped with one an- other, and the form of the invitation, and which was used to a late period, will give some idea of the unpretending nature of these re- pasts. The party asked was invited to eat an egg with the enter- tainer, and when it was wished to say that such a one was not of their society, the expression used was, that he had never cracked a hen's heg in their house. This race of burghers living in this manner had, from time to time, connected themselves with the 3 GLASGOW. 229 first fiunilies in the country. Intermarriages with the neighbour* iog gentry had been frequent in the preceding century; and early in thisi Robert Bogle, and Peter Murdoch, married daughters of Sir Michael Stewart of Blackball, and Peter Bogle married a daughter of the Viscount of Gamock. The people were in ge- Beral religious, and particularly strict in their observance of the Sabbath, — some of them, indeed, to an extent that was considered by others to be extravagant. There were families who did not iweep or dust the house, did not make the beds, or allow any food to be cooked or dressed on Sunday. There were some who opened ooiy as much of the shutters of their windows as would serve to enable the inmates to move up and down, or an individual to sit at the opening to read. *^ hifluenced by this regard for the Sabbath, the magistrates em* ployed persons termed ' compurgators,' to perambulate the city on the Saturday nights ; and when, at the approach of twelve o'dock, these inquisitors happened to hear any noisy conviviality going on, even in a private dwelling-house, they entered it, and disQiissed the company. Another office of these compurgators was to perambulate the streets and public walks, during the time of iinne service on Sunday, and to order every person they met ^road, not on necessary duty, to go home, and if they refused to obey, to take them into custody. ** Theemployment of these compurgators was continued till about the middle of the century, when, taking Mr Peter Blackburn (fa- ther of Mr Blackburn of Killearn,) into custody for walking on Sunday in the Green, he prosecuted the magistrates for an unwar- nuited exercise of authority, and prevailing in his suit in the Court of Session, the attempt to compel this observance was abandoned. " The wealth introduced into the community after the union, opening the British Colonies to the Scotch, gradually led to a change of the habits and style of living of the citizens. About the year 1735, several individuals built houses, to be occupied wlely by themselves, in place of dwelling on a floor, entering from a common stair, as they hitherto had done. This change, how- ler, proceeded very slowly, and up to the year 1755 to 1760, very few of these single houses had been built, — the greater part of the roost wealthy inhabitants continuing to a much later period to oc- cupy floors, in very many cases containing only one public room. " After the year 1740, the intercourse of society was by evening parties, never exceeding twelve or fourteen persons, invited to tea LANARK. Q 230 LANARKSHIRE. and supper. They met at four, and after tea played cards till nine, when they supped. Their games were whist and quadrille. The gentlemen attended these parties, and did not go away with the ladies after supper, but continued to sit with the landlord, drinking punch, to a very late hour. The gentlemen frequently had dinner parties in their own houses, but it was not till a much later period that the great business of visiting was attempted to be carried on by dinner parties. The guests at these earlier dinner parties were generally asked by the entertainer, upon 'Change, from which they accompanied him, at same time sending a message to their own houses, that they were not to dine at home. The late Mr Cunningham of Lainshaw, meeting the Earl of Glencaim at the Cross in this way, asked him to take pot-luck with him, and having sent immediate notice to his wife of the guest invited, en- tertained him with a most ample dinner. Some conversation tak- ing place about the difference between dinners in Glasgow and Edinburgh, Lord Glencaim observed, that the only difference he knew of was, that in Glasgow the dinner was at sight, while in Edinburgh it was at fourteen days date. These dinner parties usually terminated with hard drinking, and gentlemen, in a state of intoxication, were in consequence to be met with at most even- ing parties, and in all public places. " The dinner hour about the year 1770 was two o'clock: imme- diately after that, it came to three o'clock, and gradually became kter and later, till about 1818 it reached six o'clock. The first instance of a dinner of two courses in the neighbourhood of Glas- gow was about the year 1786. Mrs Andrew Stirling of Drumpel- lier, who made this change in the economy of the table, justified herself against the charge of introducing a more extravagant style of living, by saying, that she had put no more dishes on her table than before, but had merely divided her dinner, in place of intro- ducing her additional dishes in removes. " Up to the middle of the century, commercial concerns, whether for manufactures or foreign trades, were in general carried on by what might be termed Joint Stock Companies of credit : six or eight responsible individuals having formed themselves into a company, advanced each into the concern a few hundred pounds, and bor- rowed on the personal bonds of the company whatever farther ca- pital was required for the undertaking. It was not till commer- cial capital, at a later period, had grown up in the country, that GLASGOW. 231 1 individuals, or even companies trading extensively on their ov^n capital were to be found. " The first adventure which went from Glasgow to Virginia, after the trade had been opened to the Scotch by the union, was sent (Nrt mider the sole charge of the captain of the vessel, acting also as supercargo. This person, although a shrewd man, knew nothing of accounts; and when he was asked by his employers, on his re- turn for a statement of how the adventure had turned out, told them he could give them none, but there were its proceeds, and threw down upon the table a large ' hoggar ' (stocking) stuffed to the top with coin. The adventure had been a profitable one ; and the company conceived that if an uneducated, untrained per- son had l)een so successful, their gains would have been still great- er had a person versed in accounts been sent out with it. Under this impression, they immediately dispatched a second adventure, with a supercargo, highly recommended for a knowledge of accounts, who produced to them on his return a beautifully made out state- ment of his transactions, but no ' hoggar.' " The Virginia trade continued for a considerable time to be car- ried on by companies formed as has been described. One of the partners acted as manager : the others did not interfere. The transactions consisted in purchasing goods for the shipments made twice a-year, and making sales of the tobacco which they re- ceived in return. The goods were bought upon twelvemonths credit, and when a shipment came to be paid off, the manager sent notice to the different furnishers, to meet him on such a day, at such a wine-shop, with their accounts discharged. They then re- ceived the payment of their accounts, and along with it a glass of wine each, for which they paid. This curious mode of paying off these shipments was contrived with a view to furnish aid to some well born young woman whose parents had fallen into bad circumstances, and whom it was customary to place in one of those shops, in the same way that, at an after period, such a person would have been put into a milliner's shop. These wine-shops were opposite to the Tontine Exchange, and no business was tran- sacted but in one of them." * " We are indebted to the Scrap -Book of Mr Dugald Bannatyne for the above part of tbii abstract included in inverted commas. There arc few individuals in any town who have been so very generally useful as Mr Bannatyne. For more than half a century he hat devoted a great proportion of his valuable time and talents in promoting the mer- caotiieaDd manufiicturing interests of this city, and his long and friendly intimacy with his near relative Dugald Stewart gave him a taste for literature which has greatly be- nefited his country. When the Chamber of Commerce and Manufactures in this city 232 LANARKSHIRE. Prior to the breaking out of the American war, the <' Virginians," who were looked up to as the Glasgow aristocracy, had a privileged walk at the Cross, which they trod in long scarlet cloaks and bushy wigs ; and such was the state of society, that, when any of the most respectable master tradesmen of the^city had occasion to speak to a tobacco lord, he required to walk on the other side of the street till he was fortunate enough to meet his eye, for it would have been presumption to have made up to him. Such was the practice of the Cunninghams, the Spiers, the Glassfords, the Dunmores, and others ; and from this servility the Langs, the Ferries, the Clay- tons, and others who were at the head of their professions, and had done much to improve the mechanical trade of the city, were not ex- empt. About this period, profane swearing among the higher classes of citizens was considered a gentlemanly qualification; and dissipa- tion at entertainments was dignified with the appellation of bospv- tality and friendship ; and he who did not send his guests from his house in a state of intoxication was considered unfit to entertain genteel company. Latterly, the rising generation of the middle class, better educated than their fathers, engaged extensively in trade and commerce ; and by honourable dealing and correct con- duct, procured a name and a place in society which had been hi- therto reserved for the higher grades. Since the opening of the public cofiee-room in 1781, the absurd distinction of rank in a ma- nufacturing town has disappeared. Wealth is not now the crite- rion of respect, for persons even in the inferior walks of life, who conduct themselves with propriety, have a higher place assigned them in society than at any former period of the history of the city. Families, as has been already said, who were formerly content to live in the flat of a house in the Old, have now princely self-contained houses in the New Town. Entertainments are now given more fre- quently, and the mode of giving them is materially changed. Persons who formerly gave supper parties and a bowl of punch, are now in the way of giving sumptuous dinners, entertaining with the choicest wines, and finishing with cold punch, for which Glasgow is so celebrated. The value of the table-service, and the style of furniture in the houses of many of the Glasgow merchants, are inferior to none in the land. In drinking there is a mighty improvement : formerly, was instituted in 1783, under the auspices of Mr Patrick Colquhoun, at that time Lord ProTOst, and a public-spirited and distinguished merchant in Glasgow, Mr Bannatyne rendered his assistance, and has held the office of secretary ever since Mr Gilbert Ha- milton's death in 1809. The original members of the chamlier are now all dead, with the exception of its able and much respected secretary. CLASGOW. 233 the guests had to drink in quantity and quality as presented by thdr hosts ; now every person drinks what he pleases, and how he pleases, — after which he retires to the drawing-room, and drunken- ness and dissipation at dinner parties are happily unknown. Pro- fiine swearing is considered highly reprehensible ; so much so that iwearing in good society is never heard. The working-classes are better lodged, clothed, and fed, than formerly ; and since the for- mation of the Water Companies, they are more cleanly in their houses, and healthy in their persons. With the exception of Hutchison's Hospital, the Town's Hos- pital, the incorporations, and a few societies, our numerous chari- table and benevolent institutions, and the whole of our religous in- fltitations, have been got up during the last forty years. Since 1791, when the former Statistical Account of Scotland made its appearance, the Bible and Missionary Societies, and the City and Parochial Missions, have been called into existence. These and smilar institutions bid fair for improving the morals of the most vorthless of our population. The inhabitants of this city are justly characterized as charitable and humane ; and on all proper occa- tbns the feeling of compassion and of active benevolence is never wanting. Though this be the general, it is, however, by no means the universal character of the population, for there are many per- sons among us who live as if they existed only for themselves, and desired to know nothing but what may be conducive to their own private advantage. Persons who are placed in circumstances above the labouring artisan may be classed into three divisons. The first in order, but last in respect, are those who, though wealthy, or at least in easy circumstances, lend a deaf ear to the tale of woe, and neither contribute their time nor their means to the relief of the wretched. The second are those who give none of their time to the public, and whose charities are in a manner extorted through the influence rf respectable applicants or the force of public opinion. Than this class, who may be considered the drones of society, there are none more ready to find fault with the administrators of the ge- neral concerns of the city, and none more anxious to grasp at that patronage which so justly belongs to those who give so much of their valuable time to the community without fee or reward. The third class are those who voluntarily contribute their time and money to the service of the community in the various depart- ments of usefulness. Through the providence of God, this class 234 LANARKSHIRE. of late years has greatly increased in number, respectability of char racter, and worldly estate, which, when taken in connection with other circumstances, have tended greatly to the increase of reli- gion, morality, and*active benevolence. The spirit which actuates the benevolence of Glasgow is ever present in times of difficulty. The knowledge of this important fact should tend greatly to pre- vent discontent in the minds of the indigent, and mitigate their sufferings in times of distress. Since the commencement of the present century, Glasgow has greatly increased in scientific knowledge, and many of her citizens have rendered essential service to their country. The fourth meeting of the British Association for the Advance- ment of Science, held in Edinburgh from the 8th to the 15th Sep- tember 1834, consisted of a number of persons, from all countries, many of them the most distinguished in Europe for scientific ac^ quirements. While a considerable number of the citizens of Glas- gow were admitted members of the Association, the following were elected office-bearers, viz. Secretary to the Chemistry and Mi- neralogy Section, Thomas Thomson, M. D., F. R. S., Professor of Chemistry in the University of Glasgow. — Members of Commit- tee, Charles Macintosh, F. R. S. and Charles Tennant, M. H. S. S. — Member of Committee in the Natural History Section, Wil- liam Jackson Hooker, LL. D., F. R. S., Professor of Botany in the University of Glasgow. — Secretary to the Statistical Section, James Cleland, LL. D. The following very valuable paper, drawn up by Principal Mac- farlan, came too late to be inserted in its proper place in this article : and though a very small part of it has been anticipated, our readers may be gratified to receive it entire. " The origin of the name Glasgow is like that of most other places, involved in uncertainty, and it would be useless to repeat the fantastic conjectures of antiquarians and etymologists, with re- gard to its meaning. Perhaps the most probable conjecture is that which derives it from the level green on the banks of the river, for many ages its greatest ornament. Glas-achadh in Gaelic, pro- nounced Glassauffhf or with a slight vocal sound at the termina- tion Glassaughu^ signifies the green field, or alluvial plain, and is strictly descriptive of the spot in question. The name of the town, as ordinarily pronounced by Highlanders, corresponds closely to GLASGOW. 235 this derivation. In ancient British, Glasgow has the same mean- ing, and it is applied to other places, having a similar locality in other parts of Scotland "The origin of this city is lost in the obscurity of the middle ages. At the Roman invasion, the part of Scotland in which it lies was fflhabited by a British tribe called by that invading people the Damnii, and was mostly included within their province of Valentia. On the retirement of the Romans, the provincials were left to their own resources, and their previous peaceful habits changed into a state of constant warfare in defence of their territories against, first, the inroads of the Northern Caledonians or Picts, then the inva- ibn of the encroaching Saxons from the east, and latterly the as- saults of the martial Scots, who, emigrating from Ireland, settled in the districts now called Argyleshire and Galloway. With all these invaders they maintained a precarious conflict during a pe- riod of four centuries. From the researches of modern historians it appears highly probable that Alpine, the last King of the Scots, as a separate people, lost his life in combat with Strathclyde Bri- tons, near Dalmellington in Ayrshire, and not, as more generally re- ported, contending for the Pictish crown in the eastermost district of Scotland. About the middle of the sixth century, Kentigern, or, as his name appears in the ancient Welsh narratives, Cyndeyrn Garthys, makes a figure in their history as a distinguished eccle- siastic. He is associated as archbishop with the celebrated Ar- thur, then Sovereign Prince. His Episcopal seat is said by the same authority to have been established at Penrynrioneth, which was also the seat of the monarchy, and seems to have occupied nearly the present site of Dumbarton. Kentigern, from his pious, benevolent, and amiable character, seems to have acquired the ap- pellation of Mungo, used in several languages as an epithet of fondness and endearment. The conduct of Marken, the successor of Arthur, in insulting and banishing the Saint, was believed to be avenged by his premature death. The surnalne of Bountiful, bestowed on the next Prince Hyderick or Roderick, seems to have J)een acquired by his favour to Kentigern, to recall whom from ba- nishment was one of the first acts of his government. It has been reported by tradition, that the space now occupied by Glasgow had been previously covered by an extensive forest, within the recesses of which were celebrated the religious rites of the Druids. It is well known that the first teachers of Christianity generally esta- blished their churches on the spots which had, in the estimation of 236 LANARKSHIRE. the people, been previously hallowed by the habitual performanGe of their devotions. It is probable that Kentigem, following this prin- ciple, founded his church here on the vestiges of the Druidical circle. This took place, as is commonly reported, about the year 560, and he died in 601, leaving the infant town which had begun to spring up under the shadow of that stately church, the founda- tion of which he is said to have laid, and where at his death he was interred, under his paternal benediction. According to Spottis- wood, he was the pupil of St Sevirinus Bishop of Orkney, was dis- tinguished by the strict performance of all that were considered pious and meritorious exercises, and lived to a very great age. Af- ter his death, his memory appears to have been held in high vene- ration, and in many parts of Scotland there were religious houses which, as well as his own extensive see, claimed the patronage of his name and the benefit of his prayers. This account of the origia of Glasgow, drawn from unvarying tradition, and confirmed by no- tices scattered in contemporary chronicles, derives additional con- firmation from the armorial bearings of the see. These are de- scribed in Edmonstone's Heraldry, as follows : Argent a tree, grow- ing out of a mountain base, surmounted by a salmon in fesse, all proper ; in the salmon's mouth an amulet, or ; on the dexter sidei a bell pendent to the tree, of the second. Discarding the monkish fables respecting the origin of each separate part of this cognizance» we may conclude with little danger of mistake, that the tree refer- red to the ancient forest which surrounded the cathedral, the bell to the cathedral itself, the rins^ to the Episcopal office, and the fish to the scaly treasures poured by the beautiful river below at the feet of the venerated metropolitan. " During 500 years the history of Glasgow presents an entire blank; but the existence and the importance of the see during that period, is demonstrated by the inquisition made in 1115, by David then Prince of Cumberland, and afterwards King of Scotland, into the lands and tithes previously belonging to the church of Glasgow. These appear from that document to have been of great number and extent, embracing a multitude of parishes in the southern and western districts of Scotland. This fact sufficiently shows that, during the period in which no tra- ces of its history can be found, the cathedral not only existed but was largely endowed. It may, however, have suffered many vicissitudes and even occasional demolition amidst the disasters of the kingdom of Strathclyde, the bloody contests of the Scottish GLASGOW. 237 prinees, and the fearful devastations of the north-men. In the begimuDg of the twelfth century, when the connection of the Scot- tish sovereigns with the Saxon and Norman kings of England give stability to their authority and comparative tranquillity to their dominions, the church was revived, and the Episcopate reinstated. Jobo Achaius, originally chaplain to David L, and afterwards High Qnnoellor of the kingdom, was consecrated Bishop at Rome in 1115, and the restored revenue was speedily employed by him in restoring the dilapidated fabric of the cathedral. His labours to duB end are said to have been completed, and the renovated pile to have been consecrated in lldd. It is not certain whether that edifice had been, as was generally the case, erected at first on a pirtial and limited scale, or whether it was in one of the succeed- ing reigns, as is inferred from a charter for its reconstruction, de- stroyed by fire, but it is clear that the greater and by far the more splendid part of the fabric that still exists was built under the di- lution of Joceline, who became bishop in 1174, and that the choir vas consecrated by him in 1197. During the same reign, (that of William I. or the Lion,) a charter was granted, erecting Glasgow into a royal burgh, in favour of the pious and holy Saints Kentigernus and Jocelineus and their successors. And for many ages this burgh existed under the auspices of the successive bishops. Innumerable circumstances, indeed, mark its ecclesiastical origin. Bishop Turn** bull, in 1451, founded the still existing university; and the growing importance of the town was obviously owing to the assemblage of ecclesiastics, many of them of great power and opulence, around the archiepiscopal residence. To this rank the see was elevated daring the episcopacy of Bishop Blackadder, near the end of the fifteenth century. Bishop Cameron in 1435 enjoined his prebends, thirty-two in number, to erect houses for themselves in the vicinity of the cathedral, and always to reside there. As the city extend- ed, religious houses were multiplied. A collegiate church, to which the original name of St Mary's has been lately restored, was founded in the Trongate, and governed by a provost and eight pre- bends. A convent of Black Friars was established on the east, and one of Gray Friars on the west side of the High Street. The church of the former, rebuilt in 1699, still exists as one of the city churches, and their grounds are believed to have formed the ori- ginal part of the college gardens. Many chapels crowded the city and the suburbs, the names of most of which are now forgotten, and their revenues have disappeared. The University, as has been 238 LANARKSHIRE. already mentioned, was founded by Bishop TurnbuU under the authority of a bull issued by Pope Nicholas V. dated 7th January 1451. It formed a corporate body, consisting of a Chancellor, Rec- tor, and Dean, with Doctors, Masters, Regents, and students in the several faculties into which it was divided. One of these was known as the psedegogium, or College of Arts. In 1459, James Lord Hamilton bequeathed to the principal regent of that College some buildings and several acres of land, on part of which the present College was afterwards erected. The College of Arts was restored and endowed by King James VI., in 1577, and its property has since been augmented from various sources. It is governed by the meet- ing of Faculty, or College meeting, consisting of the Principal and the Professors who originally belonged to, or have since been received into its body. This meeting exercises the administration of the whole revenue and property of the College, the patronage of eight professorships, and the presentation of the parish of Grovan. They also administer discipline, either as a body, or through a part of their number called the Jurisdictio Ordinaria^ amongst the College students. The University is governed by the Senate, con- sisting of the Rector, the Dean, and all the Professors, whether belonging to the College or not. Meetings of this body are held for the election and admission of the Chancellor and Dean of Fa- culty; for the admission of the Vice- Chancellor and Vice- Rector; for electing a Representative to the General Assembly ; for regu- lating and conferring degrees ; for the management of the libraries; and for all other business belonging to the University. In the Comitia, where, besides the members of senate, all matriculated students have a place, the Rector is elected and admitted to his office, public disputations are heard, inaugural discourses are de- livered, the laws of the University are promulgated, and prizes for merit distributed annually." Addenda. A Jews synagogue was opened in this city in September 1820. Mr Moses Lisneihm is their priest, Hebrew teacher, killer, inspec- tor, marker, and sealer. It appears from a report of a Select Committee of the House of Commons in 1828, that in London the office of priest and killer merges in the same person, and that no Jew can use meat unless the animals are slain with a pecuhar knife, and marked with Hebrew seals. The Feast of Tabernacles, which used to be celebrated by the Glasgow Jews in Edinburgh, is now- observed in this citv. GLASGOW. 239 Edward Davies, son of Mr Edward Davies, optician, was the fint that was circumcised in Glasgow. The rite was performed by Mr Michael on 18th July 1824. The Jews resident in Glasgow io 1831 were 47 in number, viz. males, 28, females, 19. Above twenty years of age, 28; below ditto, 19 ; born in the following couQtries, viz. in Prussian Poland, 11 ; in various parts of Ger- many, 12; in Holland, 3; in London, 5; in Sheerness, 10; in Glasgow, 6. The increase since 1831 is but trifling. A burial ground has been made for the seed of Abraham at the north-west comer of the Necropolis. It is separated from the Christians' burying-ground by an ornamental screen, on which are inscribed the beautiful and appropriate words from Byron's Hebrew Melody, beginning, " Oh ! weep for those that wept by Babel's (beam." The community are greatlyindebtedtoMr JamesEvving, LL.D. one of the Members of Parliament for the city, for having project- ed the Necropolis, and to Mr Laurence Hill, LL. B. collector to the Merchants' House, for his unwearied exertions in promoting the interests of this beautiful and romantic cemetery. Tides in the Clyde, — The following is taken from the valuable Tide Tables prepared by the late Dr Heron, Professor of Natural Philosophy in Anderson's University. The tide at Greenock is two hours earlier than at Glasgow. At places situated near the ocean, the tide flows nearly as long as it ebbs. At Greenock it generally flows rather above six hours — but at Glasgow it flows only for five hours, and ebbs about seven ; this, however, is modifi- ed bv the winds. The tide produced by the moon is nearly three times greater than that occasioned by the sun, and the former thus predominat- ing, the interval between the consecutive combined tides is found almost to coincide with the moon's progress in her periodic course. This interval, however, is modified by the distance of the lumi- naries from the earth, their declinations, and other incidental cir- cumstances. At new and full moon, the influence of the sun and moon unit- ed produces the elevation which is called spring tide. PVom these periods, the tides gradually decrease, until the moon arrives at the quadratures, when the high water is only the difference between the lunar and solar tides, and is termed the neap tide. The tides now increase daily, till the following spring tide, when the sequence already noticed recurs. Spring tides, however, do not happen on 240 LANARKSHIRE. the days of full and change, nor neap tides on the day that the moon enters the quarters, but about two days after. The tide-wave rolling northward from the Atlantic Ocean, on its arrival at the British Isles, divides into three branches ; one pro- ceeds up the English channel ; another enters St George's chan- nel, south ; the third flows round the west and north coast of Ire- land, and meets the second branch near the Isle of Man. The tide that flows up the Clyde is derived from the two lat- ter branches ; and it is easy to conceive how it must partake of the irregularities produced on them by the action of high winds, and hence the anomalies that sometimes are observed, when no appa- rent cause is operating on the Clyde itself. Likewise high winds in the Clyde afiect the time and elevation of high water ; and bj considering the form and course of the Frith, it is obvious that a gale from a northerly quarter, by opposing the flow of the tide, will cause the time of high water to be earlier, and the height of the tide to be less than otherwise would be the case, while a gale from an opposite direction, acting in concert with the flowing tide will produce a contrary efiect. Iron Steam^Boat, — Since the part of the article relating to steam-boats went to press, a launch of rather a novel nature has taken place at the Broomielaw Harbour. Messrs Tod and M'Gregor, engineers, constructed a steam-boat, every part of which is of iron excepting the boards of the deck ; and having all her machinery and equipments complete, and her steam up, they placed her on a carriage in their works, from which she was taken on 16th July 1835 to the large crane at the harbour, and being lowered into the river, she immediately proceeded on a trial trip, when she went against a head wind at the rate of eight miles an hour. This pretty little vessel, named the Plata, is 45 feet long from stem to stern, 9 feet on the beam, and 17 feet over the paddle boxes. She draws 22 inches water, and her whole weight is eleven tons when her boilers are filled. She is propelled by two high pressure engines, each of five horse-power — the cylin- ders are 6 J inches diameter placed horizontally — the stroke 2 feet 4 inches. She is kept in motion for five hours with 5 cwt of coals, and has accommodation for twelve cabin, and twenty-five deck pas- sengers. This vessel, built for river navigation in foreign parts, is the property of Mr Robert Jamieson, of the firm of Messrs Jamieson, M^Crackan, and Company. She is to be taken to her destination on the deck of one of the company's ships. GLASGOW. 241 0&/ and New Style. — The dates narrated in this account of the eity prior to 1751 are in the old style, and those which follow that period are in the new. The following explains the cause of the change. Id the year 1751, it was found that, from the year being comput- ed to be rather longer than it really was, it gradually encroached upoD the seasons. It was found that the spring equinox, which at the time of the Greneral Council of Nice in 325, happened on or about the 21st March, in the year 1751, happened about the 9th or 10th, and that the error was still increasing, and would, if not remedied, cause the equinoxes and solstices to fall at very different times of the year from what they had done in time past. An Act of Parliament in 1751 (24th Geo. II. Chap. 23,) was therefore passed, proceeding upon the preamble of the facts now stated, and calculated to correct the error which had crept in, and to prevent the like happening again. Eleven days, therefore, were itnick out of the following year to rectify the error ; and to pre- vent it happening again, the years 1800, 1900, 2100, and every hundredth year, were declared to be common years of 365 days, except 2000, and every four hundredth year, which were made leap years ; thus taking away about three days in four centuries. VmbrellcLs. — In 1782 the late Mr John Jamieson, surgeon, re- luming from Paris, brought an umbrella with him, which was the first in this city. For a number of years, there were few used here, and those were made of glazed cotton cloth. As almost every child at school, mechanic and servant are now provided with an umbrella, there are probably more than 100,000 of them in use in this city. Mode ofEstimatinff Numbers at Field Meetings. — As very erro- neous estimates are frequently made respecting the number of per- sons attending field-meetings, public executions, &c. it may come near the truth to estimate a promiscuous population standing close together at six to a square yard ; thus a park of an imperial acre will contain 29,040 persons, and a Scotch acre 36,624 persons. As Scots money is frequently referred to in the foregoing article, its value in Sterling money is taken from Dr Jamieson's Etymolo- gical Dictionary. Scoli. sterling, Scots. Sterling. A doyt or penny is . L. O^Jj A Merk or 13s. 4d. or two- A bodie or two pennies is Oy*g thirds of a pound is L. 1 1 ^ A pbek,Groat,orfourpencei8 OS^ A pound is 18 A shilling is . . 1 July 1835. PARISH OF NEW MONKLAND, OR EAST MONKLAND. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES BEGG, D. D., MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parishes of Old and New Monkland were formerly one parish, under the general name of Monkland, — a name deriv- ed from the monks of the Abbey of Newbottle, to whom the lands belonged. The parish was divided into two in the year 1640, — the eastern division being named New Monkland, and the western Old Monkland. Boundaries^ Extent — The parish is in the middle ward of La- narkshire, and forms a part of the north boundary of the county. It is nearly ten miles in length from east to west, and seven in breadth near the middle, but narrower at both ends ; bounded on the south by the parishes of Bothwell and Shotts; on the east by those of Torphichen and Slamannan ; on the north by those of Cumbernauld and Kirkintilloch ; and on the west by those of Cadder and Old Monkland. Soil and Climate, — The soil is various. That in the north and west parts of the parish is the best, consisting partly of a strong clay, and partly of a dry soil ; which soils, when properly cultivated, are capable of bearing any kind of crops. The middle and east parts are of a mossy soil, and, in early seasons, yield good crops of oate, flax, potatoes, and rye-grass hay ; but in cold late seasons the oats do not ripen well. There are no hills nor mountains in the pa- rish, though the greater part of it is high. The highest lands are in the middle of the parish, and run the whole length of it from east to west, declining gently on each side to the rivers Calder and Loggie, which are its south and north boundaries. These high lands may be from five to six or seven hundred feet above the level of the sea, and a great part of them are covered with mosses, which in that elevated situation are not capable of improvement, except at a very great expense. NEW MONKLAND. 243 Owing to the elevated situation of the country, the weather is, 00 the whole, rather cold and wet. For a great part of the year the winds are from the west and south-west; but in the months of April, May, and part of June, generally from the east. The severest wea- ther, with heavy falls of snow, is in general from the north-east. The common nervous fever, or typhus fever, seems to be the most prevalent disease. It is very frequently in some part of the parish. Consumptions, inflammations, and rheumatisms, are also frequent. Hydrography. — The large reservoir for supplying the Monkland Canal, and the Forth and Clyde Canal, which covers about 300 acres of land, is partly in this parish, and partly in the parish of Shotts. There is a mineral well near Airdrie, which in former times was much frequented, but is now neglected. The w^ter is strongly impregnated with iron and sulphur. Geolofft/. — This parish, so interesting to the student of geo- logy, affords ample opportunities for studying the relations of the two grand series of rocks, the Neptunian and Plutonian. It is well supplied with whinstone or trap and sandstone. These are found m various places, and arc convenient for building and making roads, &c. The parish also abounds with coal and ironstone of the best quality. In many places, different seams of coal are wrought, such as the ell coal, the pyatshaw, the humph, the main coal, and the splint. These seams are general- ly above the black band of ironstone, and below that there is the Kiltongue coal, and other seams not yet sufficiently explored. In some places the seams are thin, not exceeding two or three feet in thickness ; in other places of the parish, as Moffat, Whiteridge, and Ballochnie, the seams of coal are nine feet thick, of excellent qua- lity, and very valuable. Smithy coal and blind coal are also wrought in some parts of the parish. Many of these coals are carried to Glasgow by the Monkland Canal, and from thence many are car- ried to the Highlands, and to Ireland. Many of them are also carried by the Ballochnie and Kirkintilloch railways to Kirkintil- loch, and from thence by the Forth and Clyde Canal to Edin- burgh. The ironstone is found partly in balls, and partly in seams ; the seams most common are the muscle band and the black band. The black band is by far the most valuable, and is generally found about fourteen fathoms below the splint coal. All the iron-works of Carron, Clyde, Calder, Gartsherrie, and Chapel Hall, are partly supplied with ironstone from this parish. 244 LANARKSHIRE. Limestone is also wrought in some parts of the parish, parti- cularly on the north side of the parish, and at the west end, but not to any very great extent, as the Cumbernauld lime is of excel- lent quality, and generally used in this parish. Where the lands in the parish lie in the vicinity of the canal, or railway, or good roads, the minerals are considered of equal value, sometimes of more value than the surface. On the south side of the parish the metals in general dip to the south or south-west, towards the Clyde; but on the north side of the parish they in general dip to the east and south-east. II. — Civil History. Land'Owners. — The chief land-owners of the parish are, Robert Buchanan, Esq. of Drumpellier ; John Campbell Colquhoun, Esq. of Killermont; Robert Haldane, Esq. of Auchingray; Sir William Alexander of Airdrie- House ; the Honourable William Elphin- stone of Monkland ; Alexander Gerard, Esq. Rochsoles ; Geoige More Nisbct, Esq. Cairnhill; Robert Jamieson, Esq. Ardeo; Thomas Falconer, Esq. Brownieside ; Dr William Clerk of Mof- fat ; Dr James Tenant of Bredinhill ; William Steel, Esq. An- nathill; George Waddel, Esq. Ballochnie; James McLean, Esq. of Medox. There are a great many other heritors in the parish. Few of the largest heritors are resident. Modern Buildings. — The chief mansion-houses are those of Airdrie, Monkland, Rochsoles, Auchingray, &c A very neat town-house has been lately built in Airdrie, con- taining a prison, police-office, and a good town-hall. The Mason- Hall in Airdrie is also a very good room. The foundation of a very large cotton-mill has been newly laid near Airdrie, which, when finished, will employ a great number of people, in teasing, carding, and spinning cotton. III. — Population. The population of the parish has been progressively increasing for a number of years past, both in the country part of the parish and in the town of Airdrie. The return of the population to Dr Webster, in the year 1755, gave 2713. The population at the time of the last Statistical Account, in the year 1792, was 8560. The following table exhibits the progressive increase of the popu- lation. In Airdrw. In country. Total, l^K 2745 1868 4613 1811, 3474 2055 5529 1821, 4800 2502 7362 1831, 0504 3273 9867 NEW MONKLAND. 245 This progressive increase of population has been owing to the coal-works in the parish, and the iron-works in the vicinity, having been greatly extended, and to the weavers of cotton cloth for the Glasgow manufacturers having greatly multiplied, — although at pre- sent they are very ill paid, and have poor wages. In the year 1833, there were in the parish 125 marriages. In the same year there were 238 children born in the parish, and re- gistered ; and 153 deaths, reckoning from the number of mort- doths used. The number of proprietors of land above L, 5^ of yearly rent is 68; there are, besides, a considerable number of smaller proprietors. In Airdrie, there were in 1831, 669 weavers above 20 years of age; 223 coal-heavers, the number of whom is now greatly in- creased ; and 160 ironstone miners, the number of whom is also greatly increased. Character of the People. — In the country part of the parish, the people are in general strong and robust ; but in Airdrie many of the weavers are feeble and small in stature. Both in town and country, the people are in general neat and clean in their dress, particularly on Sabbath when they go to church. The dress of the vomen is perhaps finer than is suitable for their situation in life. Many of the people are intelligent and sober, but some of them are rather fond of litigation. Smuggling, at no great distance of time, prevailed to a certain extent, but has now almost entirely ceased. There have been 52 illegitimate births in the parish during the last three years. IV — Industry. Agriculture, — Some of the land in the north-west corner of the f parish is very good and fertile, and may bring L. 2 or L. 3 per acre of rent yearly ; but the land from the church eastward is not so good, being of a poorer soil, and much in want of shelter, and may vary in yearly value from 10s. to L. 1, 10s. per acre. The rental of the landward part of the parish is about L. 12,000, and of Airdrie about L. 6700. If there were belts of planting running from north to south, at regular distances, to protect from the north-east winds in spring, the advantage would be great. The improvement of the parish is, however, gradually advancing, and many acres of waste land have been ploughed within these twenty years past; but the price of agricultural labour is too high, compared with the very low price of the produce of the land LANARK. R 246 LANARKSHIRE. at present, and if some change does not soon take place, agri- culture must greatly decline, and the poor soils be entirely ne- glected. Several ploughing matches take place in the parish yearly, by which much emulation among the ploughmen is ex- cited, and those who obtain a first or second prize generally after- wards expect, and get higher wages. Much attention is paid to improving the breed of cattle ; and the Ayrshire breed is preferred, and generally prevails in the parish. During the late war, flax brought a good price, and many acres, from 500 to 800, were cul- tirated yearly ; but the price is now so low, that it will not yield a profit to the farmer, and is therefore now little attended to. Rate of Wages. — Common labourers at present receive' 10s. or 12s. per week; but masons, carpenters, slaters, &c. receive 1 6s. or 18s. per week. V. — Parochial Economy. The only market-town in the parish is Airdrie, one of the new Parliamentary burghs, having all the privileges of a royal buigfa, and along with Lanark, Hamilton, Falkirk, and Linlithgow, sending a member to Parliament. Its population still is rapidly increasing. The villages of Coltston, Clerkston, Greengairs, and Kiggend, are also thriving villages. The post-office is in Airdrie, and there is a post twice in the day. Means of Communication. — Tlie turnpike-roads in the parish are the one from Edinburgh to Glasgow by Bathgate and Airdrie, which intersects the south side of the parish, and the new road from Car- lisle to Stirling, which intersects the whole parish from south to north. These roads have afforded a very great facility to the im- provement of the lands in their neighbourhood. The Balochney rail-road, which is in this parish, connects itself with the Kirkin- tilloch rail-road, and the Garnkirk rail-road, for carrying coals to Glasgow, and the Forth and Clyde Canal at Kirkintilloch, from whence they are carried by the canal east to Edinburgh, and west to Greenock and Ireland, — the canal joining the Clyde near Old Kilpatrick. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated about two miles from the west end of the parish, on an eminence, and is seen at a great distance from the west and north-west; it is far from the people in the east end of the parish, some of whom attend other churches more contiguous. The church contains 1200 sittings, and was built in the year 1777, and much repaired in 1817, and is at present in tolerable condition. One-fourth part of the sittings belongs to NEW MONKLAND. 247 the people of Airdrie, vhich is situated about a mile and a-half or two miles from the church. The manse was repaired and en- ]aTged in the year 1819, and is now in a comfortable state. The glebe contains ten Scotch acres of land, but it is of inferior soil. The stipend is 17 chalders, half meal, half barley, paid according to the fiars of the county, besides L. 10 for communion elements. There isacbapel of ease at Airdrie connected with the Established Church, which contains about 650 sittings. The minister's stipend is L.120, raised from the seat-rents. There is another chapel built in Air- drie, fitted to accommodate 1200 sitters. There is also a small cbapel at the village of Clerkston, occupied by a preacher of the Established Church, who preaches on Sabbath, and visits and examines the people in the village and vicinity through the week. The parish church, and these chapels, are in general well attend- ed. The average number of communicants in the parish church is between 1000 and 1100: and those of the Airdrie chapel are about 40O more. There are four Dissenting or Seceding meeting-houses in the parish, two of which belong to the United Secession, one to the Old Light Burghers, and one to the Old Dissenters or Cameron- ians. Some of these meeting-houses are considerably loaded with debt, and some of the ministers are but poorly provided for. Education. — The parish schoolmaster has a dwelling-house and garden, and about L.30 of yearly salary; his emoluments from school fees may amount to L. 30 per annum : and for collecting road-money, &c. he may have other L. 30. Besides the parish school, there are four other schools in the parish, built by sub- scription, viz. at Airdrie, Clerkston, Greengairs, and Coathill. At Clerkston and Greengairs there are also dwelling-houses built for Ae schoolmasters, but none of these have any salary. There are also eight other schools in the parish taught by private teachers, who depend entirely on their own exertions. In the parish school there are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, mensuration, Latin, and Greek ; but in all the other schools, reading, writing, and arithmetic only are taught The general rate of wages is 3s. per quarter for reading, and higher for the other branches of education. There are about 800 scholars generally attending all the different schools. Besides these week-day schools, there are three Sabbath schools, — so that there are very few but may be able to read if they choose to attend to the means of improvement within their reach. lAbraryj S^c. — Li Airdrie there is a circulating library, and also 248 LANARKSHIRE- a public reading-room, where the newspapers of the day, and various tracts and pamphlets are exhibited. There is an Orphan society, supported by donations, subscript tions, and collections at the churches and meeting-houses occa- sionally, for clothing and educating orphans and other destitute children. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor on the roll is about 190 on an average, and the sum distributed monthly is between L. 50 and L. 60 Sterling, in sums to each individual of from 2s. to 10s. according to the circumstances. The money is raised by collections at the parish church and chapel of Airdrie, from mortcloth dues, proclamation of marriages, and assessments to make up the deficiency. The assessments may amount on an average to L. 467. The Dissenters give no part of the collections at their meeting-houses to the poors funds of the parish, although their poor are supplied from these funds equally with others. Among the agricultural part of the population, there is a great aversion to come on the poors funds ; they consider it degrading ; but that spirit is almost extinct among the manufacturing and mining population. Prison, — In Airdrie there is a prison consisting of five cells or small apartments, which are dry, and in good order, and well se- cured ; and in which riotous and disorderly people are confined, as a punishment for their criminal conduct. Fairs. — There are two fairs yearly in Airdrie for the sale of cattle ; one of them is held in the end of May, the other about the middle of November; there is also a weekly market every Tuesday. The number of inns and alehouses is by far too great. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the time of the former Statistical Account, the population and trade of the parish have greatly increased, and much of the land is better cultivated. Besides the toll-road and rail-road for- merly mentioned, the statute labour roads of the parish have been greatly extended and improved. The quantity of dung now rais- ed in Airdrie is considerable, — which, with the Cumbernauld lime, and improved roads, affords the means of improving the land. Still, however, in the east and north-east parts of the parish, there is a great want of planting, and much of the land is very bare and naked, and far from being fertile. If summer fallowing were pracr tised, it would also be a great improvement ; but it is difficult to persuade farmers to deviate from the practice of their fathers. HAMILTON. 249 The frequent associations and combinations which prevail here, and are connected with similar combinations in different parts of the country, to raise the price of labour, are very hurtful. They interrupt trade, and attempt what is impracticable, as the price of all labour must be regulated by the demand. They keep trades' people io a constant state of agitation, and make them spend much of their time and money in attending their frequent meetings. These combinations prevail most among the colliers, and the weavers. The great number of inns, alehouses, and spirit-shops that abound in Airdrie, and other parts of the parish, affords great temptations to idleness, and dissipation, which involve many families in po- verty and misery. Licenses on these houses should be greatly in- cres^ed, so as greatly to reduce their number. My 1835. PARISH OF HAMILTON. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. WILLIAM MEEK, D. D.) ^,^,cti7pg ♦ THE REV. WILLIAM BUCK AN, ^^^^^STERb. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of this parish was Cadzow, com- monly pronounced Cawgo or Caygae, the etymology of which is uncertain. From " Acts of Parliament published by command of iis Majesty/' we learn, that the name of this parish was changed from Cadzow to Hamilton, by virtue of a charter granted by James Second of Scotland, to James first Lord Hamilton, dated 3d July 1445. In the above carta erectionis we have the following words, " Et manerium dicti Jacobi, (i. e, of Lord Hamilton,) quod nunc ie Orcharde nominatur, jacen. in baronia de Caidzhow, erit in futu- rura principale capitale messuagium omnium baroniarum, superi- oritatis, et terrarum prenominatarum, cum pertinen. totius dominii predicti, et Hamilton vocabitur et intitulabitur ;" from whence it appears that the manerium or manor-house of the Hamiltons, si- * Tbif Account was drawn up by the Reverend William Patrick, author of a M Popular Dacription of the Indigenous Plants of Lanarkshire," &c. 250 LANARKSHIRE. tuated near where the palace now stands, was formerly called the Orchard. Boundaries^ Extent ^ Sfc. — The parish of Hamilton is situated in the middle ward of the county of Lanark, {pi which the town of Ha- milton is the capital) between 55° 48' and 55° 43^ 18" north latitude. From Maidenlee in the south to Bothwell Bridge in the north, it is six miles in length ; and from Rottenburn, where it meets with the parish of Blantyre on the west, to the bank of the Clyde op- posite Carbarns, where it comes into contact with the parish of Dalserf, on the east, the distance is exactly the same across. The Clyde forms the north and north-east boundaries for about five miles, separating it from the parishes of Bothwell, Dalzel, and Cambusnethan. On meeting with Dalserf, at the above point op- posite Carbarns, the boundary line takes a south-west direction, cutting off one house in the north-west end of the village of Lark- hall, crossing the Carlisle road about a furlong and a-half above the fourteenth milestone from Glasgow; and reaching the Avon opposite Fairholm, it runs along the banks of that water to Mill- heugh Bridge. After this, the parish of Stonehouse forms the south-east boundary for a mile and a-half. Between the farms of Langfaugh and Craigthorn hill, the parish of Glasford coming in, forms the south and south-west boundaries, as far as Rotten- burn. From this point to Bothwell Bridge, the parish of Blan- tyre forms the western boundary. Thus we have Bothwell on the north, Dalzel, Cambusnethan, Dalserf, and Stonehouse on the east, Glasford on the south and south-west, and Blantyre on the west. The figure of the parish is an irregular polygon. It con- tains 22.25 square miles, or 14,240 standard imperial acres. Topographical Appearances. — Linnaeus remarks, that the ocean is the mother of the land ; and it may be said with equal truth, that the Clyde is the mother of the lower lands of Clydesdale. This noble river, rising in the higher regions of Crawford, traver- ses a whinstone or trap district till near the falls above Lanark. Here the Tocks suddenly change from crystalline trap to sand- stone and shale. Through these softer materials the river seems to have forced a way. From a mild and placid stream, gently meandering through verdant meadows, and wide expanding pas- tures, it becomes all at once a turbid, unruly, boisterous torrent, deeply engulfed in gloomy defiles of perpendicular rocks, or rush- ing headlong over lofty precipices. Below the falls, the banks be- gin to expand, and at their bases fertile haughs or holms are form- IIAMILTOX. 251 ed. About eight or ten miles below Stonebyres, the last fall on the Clyde, the banks of the river, receding to a more than usual distance, leave a great extent of plain or level ground. These low and fertile haughs, chiefly on the west bank of the Clyde, with the gently sloping ridge behind, constitute the parish of Hamil- ton. There are a few hundred acres on the east of the Clyde, which ought of right to belong to the parish of Dalzel. Meteorology. — As a general rule, it is observable, that every 300 feet of altitude make a difference of about one degree in tem- perature. Thus when the barometer is 29.5 in the lower grounds, near the town of Hamilton, it is 29.007 on the higher ridge in the lest; which ought to give an elevation of about 500 feet. The town of Hamilton is upwards of 80 feet above the level of the sea, —thus we have an elevation of 580 feet. Many neighbouring ridges are much higher ; probably 750 or 800 feet. In these up- per regions the temperature is generally one or two degrees lower than in the more sheltered vales in the Clyde, and the harvest is from a week to a month later. But besides the differences indi- cated by the thermometer and barometer, there are also very vari- ous hygrometrical results. After long-continued droughts, the columns of air being denser and of greater altitude in the vales than on the heights, buoy up the clouds, till attracted by the lof- tier ridges on the east and west, their cohesion is dissolved, and their contents precipitated. In this way the haughs and lower grounds on the Clyde are often parched with drought, while the heights on every side are saturated with rain. The qualities of air contributing to these results, also tend to promote exhalation in the lower grounds, and to relieve the soil and atmosphere from the superabundant moisture, so inimical to vegetation in the high- er parts of the parish. From rain-gages kept here, and in a neighbouring parish, it appears that the average quantity of rain for five years was 20.003 inches. The average number of dry and wet days in each month has also been ascertained from tables kept for that purpose for ten years. The result is as follows : Dry. Wet, Dry. Wet, Dry. Wet. Dry. Wet Nov. 23 7 Feb. 2:5 5 May, 24 7 Aug. 24 7 Dee. 24 7 Mar. 26 5 June, 23 7 Sept. L2 8 Jm. 25 6 Apr. 22 8 July, 21 10 Oct. 24 7 72 20 71 18 68 24 70 22 Total days, — 84 wet, and 281 dry. The above is only an average, from which there are wide devia- tions. In 1826, there was scarcely a drop of rain during March and 252 LANARKSHIRE. April, and the three summer months ; while in July 1828, rain fell on the 1st, 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 12th, 13th, 14th, 18th, 20th, 21st, 24th, 26th, 28th, 29th; and in August on the 3d, 4th, 5th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 13th, 14th, 20th, 21st, 22d, 24th- It thundered on the 5th, 8th, 12th. In September there were eight rainy days, and in October six. It generally thunders about the third Sunday of July, — a fact observable from neighbouring sacra- ments, happening on that day, seldom passing without electrical explosions. The wind, on an average of years, is 230 days in the west; namely, about 55 days west, 55 north-west, and 120 south-west. It is 110 days in the east, namely, 25 east, 50 north-east, and 35 south-east- It is seldom more than 25 davs in the north and south. Registers of the thermometer and barometer, kept here for three years by Dr King, R. N. vary so little from those kept at Glas- gow, and published in the Glasgow Medical Journal, that it is un- necessary to give them a place. The barometer on an average ranges between 30.53 and 28.73. The thermometer is seldom above 75 in July, or below 15 in January. In the hottest days, in a small room facing the north, it fluctuates between 65 and 70. In mean monthly temperature, January is the lowest, namely, from 35 to 38, and July the highest, from 58 to 60. February and No- vember are from 40 to 42 ; but November is the warmer of the two. The same analogy holds between March and October, the average heat being 45 to 47 ; but October is warmer than March. April is seldom so warm as September, nor is May so warm as August. The greatest heats and the heaviest rains are after the longest day. From the above remarks, the reader will be enabled to form a tolerably accurate idea of the climate. The air is in general re- puted healthful; and the splendid scenery around affords abundant scope for pleasant and exhilarating excursions. Fogs are not fre- quent, and rains less so than at some other places a few miles dis- tant. Colds, consumption, fevers of different kinds, particularly a slow nervous fever, to be afterwards described, fluxes, and inflam- mation, in different forms, at times prevail here, as in other places around. Gravel and other calculous complaints are on the decline ; but inflammations, palsy, and apoplexy, are supposed to be on the increase, — probably from what is termed the improved mode of living, and the more liberal use of ardent spirits and other stimu- HAMILTON. 253 kting liquors. Smallpox, which, in the year 1787, carried off se- venty-five children in this parish, was for many years almost un- known. ' Of late it has reappeared, but in a less fatal form. Among the list .of new diseases, we may mention dysentery, which was little known here till the spring of 1818. It appeared in that year in the months of March and April, and in the end of June, and in July, August, and September. Thermometer, in the first pe- riod, greatest height 67; least height 29. The last days of March, and the first six of April, were foggy and calm ; from the 8th to the ]2th snow and rain fell ; from that to the end of the month, windy, with a few calm days. Wind, N. E. and E. A year or two after, this disease made its appearance among the cavalry in the barracks, and as their surgeon had never seen it before, he very prudently called in medical assistance from the town. It raged fearfully for some time ; but the terror it excited has of late almost entirely given place to that of its more formidable successor, cholera. From July to November 1832, sixty-three individuals, mostly fe- oiales, and many of them in the poorest circumstances, fell victims to this new and appalling scourge. The hospital near the barracks, and other incidental expenses, cost the parish upwards of L. 600. It has not since appeared in this place. The slow nervous or re- mittent fever, above alluded to, is a variety of the gastric fever of some authors, and is by many of our ablest physicians considered as being, perhaps, peculiar to Hamilton. It seems to have its source in the irritation of the digestive organs.* Frosts of long continuance are now of rare occurrence. The most remarkable were in the winters of 1708, 1715, 1739, (called the hard frost,) 1742, 1754, 1776, 1788, 1796, and 1813. The heaviest snows of late have been in March and April, — as in 1820 and 1827. In 1809, a heavy fall of snow, on the 31st of May, and again on the 5th of June, did great damage in the orchards and woodlands, by breaking down the branches of the trees then in full verdure. On the 5th February 1831, several persons in this neighbourhood were lost in the snow. Hydrography. — The river Clyde and the other waters in the district are occasionally subject to great inundations. In 738, • The symptoms, according to an amiable and much lamented individual, the late I)r John Hume of Hamilton, are, ** Ileadach often very severe ; pain in the back and loiiu,and sometimes in the chest ; sometimes delirium, but transient ; never stupor, ex- cept inmiediately before death ; variable pulse, but in general quick ; frequent cough ; l»«t and dryness of skin, alternating with chilliness, nausea, vomiting of bilious nutters, pain in the epigastrium and bowels generally, want of appetite, white toogue, either pure or mixed with red points, generally costivcncss, and turbid urine. 254 LANARKSHIRE. a flood destroyed 400 families. Grey, in his Chrooicle, mentioQa another great spate on 25th and 26th November 1454» which brought down " hale housis, barnis, and millis," and obUged the inhabitants of Garion, near Dalserf, to take to their house-tops. To escape such catastrophes, the principal part of the Netherton stood on a high ground which the Clyde never inundated ; and it was probably the fright which the above-mentioned flood occasion- ed that caused Lord Hamilton, the year following, to remove the Collegiate Church to the place where Hamilton Palace now stands. On the 12th of March 1782, the flood was nearly two feet higher than was ever remembered before ; and the river rose about sixteen feet perpendicular above the ordinary level of low water. It over- flowed a great tract of country, and appeared like an arm of the sea. The date of this flood, and the height of the water, are recorded on Hamilton Bridge. In the autumn of 1807, another great spate carried ofl* a vast quantity of grain, then standing in the stook, and swept away the two centre arches of Hamilton Bridge. On the 9th February 1831, on the melting of the snow, the Clyde rose at Blantyre Mills to the height of twelve feet nine inches above its usual level ; and at Hamilton Bridge it was within six inches of the flood-mark of 1782. Besides the Clyde, the course of which has already been de- scribed, the parish is traversed by the Avon, (an old British word which signifies the " water,") and nine smaller streamlets or burns, six of which fall into the Avon, and three into the Clyde. All of these have their origin in the high grounds in the west and south- west of the parish. By time and perseverance (like their mightier chief the Clyde,) they have forced their way through great chasms in the sandstone rocks, forming magnificent heughs or ravines of great magnitude, infinitely varied, and richly wooded. These con- stitute part of the " beauties of Scotland," of which a stranger pas- sing along the highway knows and sees but little. The Avon rises on the west, near the boundary line between the parish of Strath- avon and the county of Ayr. After running for many miles through a pastoral country, and the better cultivated tracts of Avondale and Stonehouse, it enters the parish of Hamilton, at Millheugh Bridge. About half a mile onwards, it is at length engulfed in a stupen- dous and rocky defile, equal in grandeur, variety, and picturesque effect, to the finest scenery of the kind in Britain. It bears no in- considerable resemblance to the celebrated banks at Roslin, near Edinburgh, but is finer, and on a more majestic scale. In many HAMILTON. 255 places the rocks tower up to the height of 250 or 300 feet, and are frequently crowned with stately oaks of great antiquity, and of sin- gular and romantic forms. These noble banks arc everywhere densely covered with hard-wood of numerous sorts, and of various tints; and at their summits on the west, Hamilton wood stretches &r beyond. Near the centre of this gloomy chasm, the ruins of Cadzow Castle appear <^ like centinel of fairy land,'' on the summit of a lofty rock, nearly 200 feet above the bed of the Avon. On the opposite side of the river, on the east, the modem chateau or baDqueting-house known by the name of Chatelherault, or Wham, arises with its red walls, its four square towers all in a line, its gaudy pinnacles, its globular and circular ornaments, and its beautiful flower garden. It was built after the model of the Citadel at Cha- telherault in Poitou, about 1732. Near the northern extremity of this romantic dell, and about three miles from its commencement, the ancient terraced gardens of Barncluith, (or Baron's Cleugh,) the property of Lord Kuthven, appear on the west bank of the Avon, remarkable not only for their site and design, for their formal walks and topiary work, but also as affording the best specimen ex- taot of an old garden in the French style, (misnamed Dutch, in compliment to William of Orange,) as it existed in the sixteenth century. After this, the Avon, beginning to emancipate itself from restraint, enters the haughs of Hamilton, and is lost in the Clyde, at Hamilton bridge.* Cadzow bum, which still retains the ancient name of the parish, rises in Wackenwae well,* in Glasford, and runs through the town of Hamilton ; after which it enters the Duke of Hamilton's lower policy, where it is arched over nearly to the point where it joins the Clyde, at the old ford and boat-house below Hamilton Bridge, fiamcluith burn, which enters the Avon about half a mile east of Hamilton, is remarkable for six falls, (all in Hamilton wood,) each from 5 to 6 feet high. The banks of this burn, immediately below the falls, seem anciently to have been of more consequence than at present Within half a mile of each other, we have Quhitecamp, DOW Silvertonhill, Castle-hill, and Covant burn, although no traces of a camp, castle, or convent are now to be found, nor is any history or tradition of them preserved. The above waters are all clear pur- ling streams, running on a fine bed of sand and gravel, or on the bare sandstone or shale. The average breadth of the Clyde is • This spot has given rise to a beautiful and popular song, (attributed, by mistake, to Burns,) " Where Avon mingles with the Clyde." 256 LANARKSHIRE. from 80 to 100 yards. Its average velocity is from 2 to 8 or 10 miles an hour. In some places it is 10 or 12 feet deep, and at some fords and streams it is scarcely 1. Its temperature in July, when the thermometer was 65° in the shade, was 60°. The springs are all from the surface, and are formed by the in- tervention of clay and sand strata, the former holding water, and the latter permitting its free passage. The process of filtration is also promoted by the fissures in the metals, and the looser and more porous materials with which they are filled up. In well-digging, it is looked upon as a maxim, that there is no water till clay is reached, and penetrated quite through. Many of our best wells, however, are in the solid rock, and few of them more than 20 feet in depth. Their average temperature in July, when the thermo- meter was 65°, was 50°. In the beginning of November, when the thermometer was 45, the temperature of the springs was nearly the same as in July. Many of the wells in Hamilton hold a cal- careous substance (the carbonate and sulphate of lime) in solution, equal to a 1500th part of their volume. The carbonate of lime is a substance equally innocuous as common salt, and although the springs in which it occurs always produce a hard sort of water, which is not fit for washing or bleaching, yet for culinary purposes it is quite unexceptionable. There are several chalybeate springs in the parish, but none of these are in high repute. Geology. — In forming an accurate and comprehensive view of the geology of this district, if we take the granite rocks of Galloway as the base, we have superincumbent upon them, 1. the greywacke of Leadhills and Wanlockhead ; 2. the red sandstone over which the Clyde is precipitated at Lanark ; and 3. the coal formation of the middle and lower wards, consisting of bituminous shale, coal, gray limestone, gray sandstone, and clay ironstone ; thus afibrd- ing a beautiful illustration of the transition and carboniferous epochs. The sandstone rocks are, for the most part, in great masses, repeatedly broken by horizontal and perpendicular fissures. They vary from a few inches or feet, to 50 or 200 or 300 feet in thickness. The strata, with few exceptions, dip in a N. E. di- rection towards the Clyde. The dip varies from three to twelve degrees, or from one to four feet in twenty. In many places the dip is one in six. There is a small stratum of whin or trap in the S. W. of the parish, which attains its greatest altitude at High- cross- Knoll. HAMILTON. 257 The soil superincumbent on the above strata is of various sorts. The extensive valleys along the Clyde are of a deep fertile loam 00 a sandy or loose gravelly subsoil. A remarkable tract of sandy s(m1, several miles in length, and about a mile and a -half in breadth, commences at Cunningar, runs through the farm of Merryton, and southwards by Raploch in Dalserf, and Kittimuir in Stonchouse. On this soil it is observed that potatoes do not in general thrive well after the application of lime. In the middle of the parish the subsoil is mostly a yellow clay, (the Argilla communis of Lin- Dsus.) In the upper and bleaker parts, a bluish or grayish clay prevails, more or less impregnated with gravel and other siliceous substances. This last is the very worst description of soil. There is little or no peat in the parish. The surface oyi the whole " not being broken by any great irregularities, the land is all arable, ex- cept some steep banks by the sides of the river and brooks, a few swampy meadows in the upper part of the parish, and such parts as are covered with planting or natural wood, the extent of which is considerable." The haughs on the Clyde are all of transport- ed soil, and seem at some former period to have formed the bot- tmi of lakes ; for there is no haugh without its dam at the lower part of it, by which the water was no doubt once retained. Thus, the dam of the Hamilton haughs was a little below Bothwell Bridge ; that of the Ross, Allanton, and Merryton haughs, at the camp of Dalzel. Dalserf, Dalpatrick, and Dalbeg haughs were dammed up at Garion Mill ; and the haughs of Overton and Thrippet, at Milton Bridge. At what period the waters forced a passage through these several barriers, it is impossible now to ascertain. The bottoms of all our rivers and burns are imbedded with gravel, consisting of the debris of granite, basalt, quartz, and various other descriptions of rocks. In the bed of Cadzow burn, at the flesh-market, there are water-worn blocks of granite, and boulders of highly indurated red sandstone of two or three feet diameter, imbedded in the solid rocL In Bamcluith burn, there are also large blocks of granite several feet in diameter, lying upon a bed of shale. It is well-known that there are no granite rocks nearer than forty miles and up- wards, and the course of these burns is not more than six miles. The question, therefore, comes to be, — whence do these strangers come? Large water-worn masses of pure basalt are also found in the bed of every torrent, and wherever the soil is dug into. Coal, lime, and ironstone, are found in various places. Coal is chiefly wrought at Quarter, about three miles south of the town of 258 LANARKSHIRE. Hamilton. The same bed also extends a great way northwards in the direction of Glasgow, but owing to a slip in the coal metals between the farms of Simpsonland and Carscallan, a little to the north of Quarter, the coal is sunk nearly 100 fathoms below its usual level ; an accident which puts it almost beyond the reach of the inhabitants of Hamilton, Blantyre, and part of Bothwell ; the strata not rising up again till near Cambuslang. The existence of this remarkable fracture is indicated by the coal metals on the banks of the Avon, and on other burns below the place where the break occurs, all dipping to the south-west; whereas, above that particular spot, they, and indeed the whole strata of the district, with this single exception, dip to the north-east. The coal strata here resemble those throughout the county. At Quarter, the first bed worth working is the 10 feet or woman's coal, so called because it was once wrought by females. This is a soft coal, which burns rapid- ly; and although called the 10 feet coal, is in reality from 7 to 14 feet in thickness. Fifteen fathoms lower down, the ell coal oc- curs, so called because it was at first found of that thickness ; but it is frequently from 4 to 6 feet thick. In the fire it cakes, or runs into a mass, and is much esteemed by blacksmiths. Ten or fifteen fathoms below the former, is the seam called the main-coaL This at Quarter is 5 feet 6 inches thick, and consists of four dis- tinct varieties of coal. 1^^, The ground coal, undermost, 20 inches thick, gummy and sooty. 2^, Immediately above it the yolk or jet coal, 6 inches thick, of a fine clear vitreous texture, like cannel coal, afibrding abundance of light 3^/, Parrot coal, 10 inches. 4^A, Splint coal, 30 inches. This is the coal now wrought both by shanks and ingoing pits. The shanks at Quarter are about 30 fathoms. The mouths of the ingoing pits are on the banks of the Avon two miles above Hamilton. These pits communicate with each other ; and at their farthest recesses, swarms of flies are of- ten observed. They also abound with rats and mice. Below the main coal, the lump, hard, soft, and sour-milk seams of coal occur, each at the depth of about 15 fathoms, the one below the other. Between and above these, there are many smaller seams. The whole of the seams added together will give a thickness of from 20 to 24 feet Coal is also wrought to the south at Plotcock and Langfaugh, but on a smaller scale. Some trifling seams have been found at Devonhill, on the west side of the parish. The coal is brought from Quarter by a railway along the banks of the Avon, and is laid down at Avon bridge, half a mile from Hamilton, at 3s. HAMILTON. 259 9(L a*ton« Here horses and donkeys are employed to cart it into tlie town, at from lOd. to 15d. per ton. The donkey carts are of great service to poor people, who get ten or twelve cwts. laid down at from 2s. dd. to 2s. 6d. Upwards of 10,000 tons are here sold annually. About half that quantity is disposed of at Quarter to peo- ple on the Strathavon and Stonehouse side of the parish, llierc are various other collieries in the neighbourhood. There are two principal beds or posts of lime, namely, a 4 feet bed below the 6 feet coal ; and about 12 fathoms farther down, a 6 feet bed. The 4 feet bed crops out at Crookedstone, and the 6 feet bed at Boghead, in the south-west of the parish. This last is a ixtk lime of excellent quality, and is that which is chiefly made use of in building and agriculture. The tenantry on the Hamil* ton estate obtain it on very liberal terms. A seam of ironstone, about 18 inches thick, occurs below the 4 feet lime, but it has never been wrought in this parish. It crops out at Crookedstone, and at Boghead. A similar seam, 15 fa^ thorns below the splint coal, is wrought exactly at the same eleva* tk>o near Newhouse in Bothwell, on the opposite side of the Clyde. Balls of ironstone, from the size of a pea to several inches in dia- meter, abound in the fire-clay connected with the coal formation. Rich seams of this valuable material are disclosed by the cutting of the railway on the Avon. The above strata are the depositories of many organic remains. The following are a few of the most common and interesting. Turbo Uriij Paludina Jluviorum^ Phasianella angulosa et minuta, Bdlerophon Urii^ in limestone, Terebratula affinis, and probably many more of the same genus; Product us Martini et Longispi^ xttf, — the under valve has a few spines like mother of pearl ; Pec- ttn -papyraceus in shale ; Gryphcea minuta in a thin bed of clay above the lime ; Nucula attenuata and gibbosa^ in till on the banks of the Avon. Small pieces of black mineralized wood (Phytolithus trunci) are found above the lime, so hard as to strike fire ; and yet the component parts so distinct, that the bark, the dif- ferent years growth, and the pith, can be easily distinguished. They seem chiefly of the pine genus. Impressions of several ge- nera and species of ferns {Phytolitha totalis) are found in the bed of the Avon near the coal mines. These are inclosed in pieces of water-worn schist or Waes, which ought to be carefully broken in order to obtain the impressions entire. The plants thus procured are chiefly exotics. There are several petrifying springs, particu- 260 LANARKSHIRE. larly one on a small rivulet which falls into the Avon above Cad- zow Castle, where beautiful petrifactions ofhi/pna are found. Beds of fuller's earth (Argillafullonica) and potter's earth (Argilla leucargilla) are found in various quarters ; and in one part a very pure yellow ochre (Argilla lutea) in considerable quantities. Zoology. — Under this branch, as the parish is not a little distinguished, a rather lengthened description may be allowed. Among the quadrupeds, we may mention Martes abietum^ the mer- trick or pine-martin. It is very common here, producing its young in the old nests of the crow and magpie, on the summits of the loftiest trees. It is very ravenous, and is frequently caught in stamps. The weasel, ermine and foumart, abound ; and also the otter, badger, wild-cat, hedgehog, &c. The Cervus capreolus, or roe, is an occasional visitant. Five of these were seen in a flock in Hamilton woods last year (1833). That variety of Sarez ara-- neiis which has the " upper parts dusky-gray, under yellowish white," is occasionally observed. An individual has also a stuffed specimen, (killed here) of what appears to be the S. quadricaudatus of Linnseus. The woods here are extensive, and vocal with birds. The four species which follow, have not hitherto obtained a place in the Scottish Fauna. 1. Pemis apivorusy honey buzzard, shot at Cha- telherault in the autumn of 1831. 2. Saxicola rubicola^ stone-chat. This bird has built for many years at the root of a furze bush near Hamilton. It forms a curious road into its nest, about half a yard in length, through the long grass. The eggs are blue, with rufous spots at the larger end. A fine male of this species, shot a mile from Hamilton, is in possession of Mr Kirkland, weaving agent.* 3. Curruca sylviella^ lesser white-throat. This bird, supposed to be confined to England, is common here. The nest is sometimes in a hedge, but more frequently among long dry grass, by the side of a wood, four or five inches from the ground, and generally over- shadowed by a twig of bramble or some other shrub. The nest is more compact than that of the larger white-throat, which, in addi- tion to its numerous names, is here called " Beardy, and Blethering Tam." The song of the sylviella is sweeter and more perfect than that of the common sort, and its eggs are also very different 4. Curruca salicaria^ or sedge warbler. An individual of this species • Since writing the above, I have seen another male of the ruhicola shot at Hes- pielaw, in this parish. A pair had been observed flying about during the summer, and probably had their nest there. 4 HAMILTON. 261 tt now in the collection of a person named Mowat It was killed by a boy throwing a stone (last summer) near a marshy place on the Clyde. Among the rarer birds of Scotland, the following are pretty com- mon here : FringiUa montium^ twite, or heather linnet. This bird gravely represented in some popular works on ornithology, as build- ing m France, and as being ^^ occasionally caught by the London bird-catchers," is here common enough, and is well known to almost efery schoolboy. The nest is generally in a heather bush, in a brae, or slight declivity, and is very skilfully concealed. It resem- bles that of the common linnet, but is smaller, and is mostly lined with wooL In autumn, especially when frost begins, they descend in flocks to the lower grounds. Muscicapa grisola^ spotted fly- cateher : This bird, as far as can be ascertained, is in this district confined to the vale of the Clyde at Hamilton and Bothwell. It builds in out^houses and in wall-trees, in the most frequented places. It is a tame and silent bird, and disappears in September. •Sy/rw phoBJiicuruSj redstart or red-tail, is exceedingly abundant. The Certhia familiaris also occurs in the parish. The Curruca (dncapitta or black-cap is common, but here it seems to lose that varied and melodious song for which it is famous in the south, and on account of which it is sometimes called the mock nightingale. The MotacUla Jlavoy or yellow wagtail, is here called the Seed Lady. Motacilla boarula^ or gray- wagtail, which some natu- rah'sts say is " chiefly observed in winter" is most common with ns in summer, and builds among stones, and on the rocks by the sides of rivulets. It is asserted that the siskin, Friiigilla spinus, builds here, but upon no sure authority. The goatsucker, the mis- seUhrush, the dipper, the yellow-wren, the crested-titmouse, the bullfinch, goldfinch, starling, &c. are common. The missel-thrush builds in orchards, and lines with clay beneath the small wrack, ex- cept where the branches of the tree embrace the nest. Opposite these there is no plaster work, the branch itself aflbrding abundance of shelter. A person kept a tame one in Hamilton, which sung remark- ably well. The Alcedo isjnda^ or kingfisher, builds here regularly. A lai^e heronry may now be seen in Hamilton haughs. There were about thirty nests this season. The heron seems to prefer the loftiest trees for building on, especially those a little elevated above the rest, by the nature of the ground on which they stand. These birds are frequently attacked by the carrion-crow, on their return from their fishing expeditions, and the prey snatched from them. LANARK. S 262 LANARKSHIRE. The jackdaw, although he in general prefers old ruins for his breed- ing place, builds here abundantly in the holes of the old oaks in Hamilton wood. In the month of May they spread themselves over dry old pastures, where they pick up vast quantities of insects, caterpillars, and beetles. At this season they forsake their old com- panions the rooks; but return to them again in autumn. A nest of the Cypsehu apus^ or swift, was got this summer with three young.* The following species are often shot : Lanitts excubitor, cinereous shrike. It appears chiefly in autumn, and sometimes attacks the call-birds of the bird-catcher in their cages. Bombycilla garrtda^ wax-wing, or Bbhemian chatterer. These are irregular visitants. Three individuals were shot in 1830 with heps in their stomachs. A vast flock of them appeared in the haughs of Hamilton in the winter of 1782. They are regarded as birds of evil omen. Loxia curvirostra, or cross-bill, Ernberiza nivalis^ or snow-bunting, JFnn- gilla montifrinffilloy mountain-finch, or cock of the north, and many other winter birds are observed. No species of Picus or woodpecker has ever been observed in this part of Scotland. In winter many species of sea-fowl, chiefly first year's birds, are shot on the Clyde. The erne is often observed. Yunx tarquiUa was lately shot. Of the reptile kind, the Angtds fragilis^ or blind-worm, is very common at Chatelherault. It is so brittle that it readily breaks if let fall, or when suddenly laid hold on. Having no poison fangs its bite is not venomous. It hides in holes in the winter, and is sometimes seen abroad in the spring, by the beginning of March. Some years ago a vast number of young vipers, with some old ones of great magnitude, were turned up when digging a plot of ground near Woodyet These, in the true viper spirit, struck their long barbed tongues against the spades of the workmen with great vio- lence, and seemed very angry at being thus invaded in their an- cient domains. This species is very venomous. Vast quantities of frogs are sometimes found congregated in moist marshy places, many feet below the surface. About a hogshead-full were dug up some • About two years ago, many of the inhabitants of Hamilton were attracted to Mr Fisher's at ClaudVburn, in the neighbourhood of the town, to see a robin red- breast feeding a young cuckoo, which it had hatched. The little bird had been a pet during the winter, but leaving its master, and searching out for a mate in the spring, met with this misfortune. The toil of feeding so large a bird as the cuckoo, which by this time was flying about the orchard, soon compelled robin to apply onoe more to his former benefactor for assbtancc ; and it was curious to see the fond dupe come and peck worms, and other viands, out of Mr Fisher's hand, and carry them off di- rectly to his great insatiable pseudo- nestling. HAMILTON. 263 years ago, near the margin of a spouty ditch, in the high parks of Hamilton. There' are abundance of fish in the Clyde and its tributaries. Of these, the Lettciscus rutiliu, roach or braize, is the most un- common. The other species are the salmon, trout, pike, perch, loach, minnow, lampreys, silver eels, and small flounders. The lampreys may be congregated in vast quantities by throwing a piece of carrion into the water.* That disputed species, the par or samlet of Pennant, abounds at particular seasons. Dr Fleming, in his History of British Animals, observes, that this species is now ^^ generally consi- dered as the young of Salmo trntta, or sea-trout, or of the sal- mon." That it is not the young of the sea-trout is certain ; for, al- though we have myriads of pars^ no such species as sea-trout was ever found here. It may be said, they are spawned below, and come up the water; but it does not appear how so small a fish as a par could ^t over Blantyre dam, three miles below Hamilton. The lowering of the dam at Millheugh, on the Avon, now going on, will allow the passage of the salmon, but not of smaller fish ; and if after this the par is found above the dam, we may conclude it is the spawn of the salmon. Nous verroru. The eggs of insects seem to be distributed as universally, and with as much care, as the seeds of plants. The number of these ^ Uttle wonders" inhabiting this part of Scotland is truly astonish- ing ; and, although some pretty good collections of them have been made, they have not hitherto been half investigated. The follow- ing are a few of the most interesting : Coleaptera, or beetles. 1. Silpha quadripunctata. - An insect of the above species was found here in 1826. This is an exceedingly rare insect. 2. JRhagium hifaciaJtum, 3. Leptura quadrifaciata. To these we may add^the three following species, namely, the Scarabctus melohmtha^ S. brun^ neasj and S. horticola. Dr Rennie mentions the Melohntha or cockchaffer as occurring (in this end of the island) only at Som in Ayrshire. It is certainly fortunate for Scotland that an insect so very destructive in its habits is of so very rare occurrence ; but still several places in this country are occasionally subjected to its ravages. In the summer of 1833, a great deal of grass was de- stroyed by this insect, and many thousands of them were caught at Chatelherault. * The hone- muscle, MytUlus anaiinut and M. cygneua, are plentiful in the Clyde. Thej sometimes contain small pearls ; but these are in general coarse and ill-coloured. 264 LANARKSHIRE. Among the Hemiptera of this parish, we may now record Blatta Americana^ which has probably been brought over in raw sugar. The cock-roach occasionally secretes itself in a pot of jam or jelly, where it attains an enormous size, and assumes a darker and more glossy hue ; but it loses somewhat of its activity by this over-indul- gence of its appetites. It is brought with baggage from sea, but soon disappears. Of Lepidoptera^ there are here many rare species. Among the butterfly tribe we may mention, Vanessa Atalanta or red admir- able. This species is pretty common. The caterpillar is solitary, and feeds on the nettle. The butterfly appears in August, and, it has been said, lives through the winter. The Vanessa lo^ or pea- cock butterfly, is more rare. The caterpillar feeds on the nettle, and the perfect insect appears in July. The Thecla querats, or purple hair streak, is found in May and June. The Hipparchia nujeffcerof or gate-keeper, and the H. cegeria^ or speckled wood, are al- so found. The LyccBna alsusj or small blue, is common here. The Hesperia Tages^ or dingy skipper, and Vanessa cardui, or painted lady, may be also mentioned. Vast flights of this last species oc- casionally occur on the continent. It is one of the few insects found in all quarters of the globe. The following moths also occur : Sa- tumia Pavonia minor^ or emperor moth. This is an early and ele- gant insect, appearing in April and May. The caterpillars feed on the bramble and dog-rose. Pygcera hucephala^ or buff" tip moth, is common in some seasons, and very rare in others. The Centra vinula^ or piiss moth, Acherontia atropos^ death's head moth, La^ siocampa rvhi^ fox-egger-moth, Smerinthus populi^ Zygcena JUi-- pendula^ Microglossa stellularum^ Plusia gamma^ and many other species occur. Biston betularis^ is as if a pepper-box had been dusted on its wings. Abraxas grossidariata is common in some sea- sons, and in others very scarce. These keep chiefly to the lower grounds, and in many places, only 50 feet above Hamilton, are never met with at all. Among the fruit moths the Bradyepetes do- labraria^ is the greatest scourge of the orchard. Various species of Hepialus^ supposed to be found only in England, occur here. The Cleophora fagana^ and Phragmatobia fvliginosa are very rare insects. Among the Hymenoptera^ we may note Ichneumon luteus^ L manifestor^ and two varieties of Chrysopa reticulata. Botany. — As nearly all the phaenogamous plants have already been published in a " Popular description of the indigenous plants of La- HAMILTON. 265 Darkshire," we will only mention the three following among the rarer species : 1. A variety of Antirrhmum repens. The stem is simple, and has four linear leaves in whorls from top to bottom. The whole plant is glabrous, and is found on an old wall, to the north of Hamilton wood. 2. Cnicus eriophorus. This magnificent plant is now common in waste ground at Woodyet. 3. Chrysocoma Li- nosyris, or flax-leaved-goldilocks. This plant, a native of the south, has lately appeared on the banks of the Clyde, in a very re- mote spot, in great abundance. The roots or seeds have proba- bly been brought down by the water. Adescriptionof the CryptoffamicB of this fSLrish and district is now in preparation. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices. — In 1 153 and in 1289, the old Scottish kings beld their courts at Cadzow ; which continued to be royal pro- perty till after the battle of Bannockburn. This district has been occasionally the scene of important events, which, as they are well known in Scottish history, need not be here particularly noticed. Covenanters. — In November 1650, Cromwell sent General Lam- bert, and Commissary General Whalley, to Hamilton, with five re- giments of cavalry to overawe the west-country Covenanters, or to bring them over to his own terms. They were there attacked by Colonel Kerr, with 1500 horsemen from Ayrshire. The Cove- nanters succeeded in securing a number of the horses; but Lambert baving rallied his forces, overtook the " spoil encumbered foe" two miles west of Hamilton, killed Colonel Kerr and about 100 of his troops, and took many prisoners. On Sabbath 1st June 1679, Captain Graham, (afterwards Vis- count Dundee,) on his way to the field of Drumclog, seized, near Hamilton, John King, a field preacher, and seventeen other people, ^bom he bound in pairs, and drove before him towards Loudon HilL Mr King, who was probably in disguise, is described by Crighton as a " bra' nuickle carl with a white hat, and a great bob of ribbans on the back o't." The Covenanters, after their success at Drumclog, deeming it unlawful to fight on the Sabbath except in self-defence, returned to the field of action, where they offered «p thanks to the Almighty for the victory they had gained ; after which they took some refreshment in Strathaveii, and marched to Hamilton in the evening. Next day, (June 2d,) flushed with vic- tory, they resolved to make an attack on Glasgow. One division of them, commanded by Mr Hamilton, attempted to penetrate by 266 LANARKSHIRE. Gallowgate, and another party entered by the High Street. But Lord Ross had so completely barricaded the streets, and made such a resistance, that the Covenanters were soon compelled to retire, with the loss of Walter Paterson of Carbarns, and five of their party killed, and several wounded. After their repulse at Glasgow, they rallied on Tollcross muir, and returned to Hamilton. The more moderate party (June 20) drew up a paper, which afterwards obtained the name of the '^ Hamilton Declaration." The purport of it was to forbear all angry disputes and mutual recriminations for the present, to disclaim any intention to overturn the Govern- ment* civil or ecclesiastical, and to refer all matters of importance to a free Parliament, and a lawfully chosen General Assembly. This proposal was, of course, rejected by the violent party. Their guard was attacked in the night-time at Hamilton Ford, and one of their number (James Cleland) killed. On Saturday 21st June, the Royal army, under the Duke of Monmouth, about 5000 strong, reached Bothwell Muir, within two miles of the Covenanters' camp. On the morning of Sabbath, 22d June 1672, the Covenanters, amounting to about 4000 men, were posted between the Clyde and the town of Hamilton, on the brow of the brae near Bothwell Bridge. Rathiliet, Hall, and Tumbull, with three troops under their command, and one piece of brass ordnance, guarded that important pass. The re- sult of this most unfortunate rencounter is well known. The Co- venanters were put to flight. They fled with great loss chiefly in the direction of Glasford and Strathaven. Gordon of Earlston had reached the parish of Hamilton with a party of Galloway men, when they met their discomfited brethren at AUowshill, near Quarter, where Grordon was met and killed. A great number of the Cove- nanters found shelter in Hamilton woods ; and the amiable Duchess Anne Hamilton, requesting that the soldiers might not be permit- ted to enter her plantations, Monmouth instantly gave orders to that effect. About 1200 men were taken prisoners on the spot. Historical Notices. — The Hamiltons were great opposers of the Union. In 1707, when that event took place, 500 troops assem- bled at Hamilton to resist it by force of arms. It was expected that 7000 or 8000 would have met ; but the Duke of Hamilton disap- proved of the measure. In the year 1744, a fire took place in Barrie's Close, which raged with unabating fury for eight days. The town's-peopie were at length' so completely exhausted, that they were compelled to call HAMILTON. 267 io assistance from the country. A wliole street of houses was burn- ed, and their ruins were allowed to remain for many years. On the death of the Duke of Douglas in 1761, the house of Ha- milton, as male representatives of the Douglasses, laid claim to the estates, under a persuasion, that Mr Douglas, son and heir of Lady Jane Stewart, sister of the Duke of Douglas, was a supposititious child, taken at Paris from the real parents. A long law-suit was the result. It was decided in Paris, and in the Court of Session, in (aTOur of the Hamiltons ; but on an appeal to the House of Peers, was ultimately decided in favour of Mr Douglas, since created Lord Douglas. In 1777, Douglas Duke of Hamilton, coming of age, raised in Hamilton, for the service of the country, the 82d Regiment of Foot, which afterwards highly distinguished itself in the American war. On 11th June 1782, the Duke of Hamilton, as Duke of Bran- don in England, was called to take his seat in the House of Lords as a British Peer. This paved the way to all the Scottish nobi- lity who have since attained similar honours and privileges. Eminent Men, — This parish has been the birth-place and occa- sional residence of many eminent characters. The celebrated Dr Cullen, sometimes represented as born at Lanark in 1712, ap- pears distinctly from the session books of Hamilton to have been bom two years later in the parish of Hamilton. Dr Cullen was magistrate of Hamilton for several years. — The celebrated Lord Cochrane, now Earl Dundonald, spent many of his early years in the parish. — The father of the late Professor Millar of Glasgow was parochial clergyman here ; as was also the father of the late Dr Bailiie of London, and of his celebrated sister, Joanna Baillie. Family of Hamilton, — The estate of Cadzow, now Hamilton, comprises more than one-half of the parish. It had remained in the Crown from a very remote antiquity, till 1316, when it was bestowed on Walter Fitz Gilbert de Hamilton, by Bruce, imme- diately after the battle of Bannockburn. It has continued in the hands of his descendants ever since. This noble family, although the first in the kingdom for rank, has not been above 600 years in Scotland. The first of them is supposed to have been an English gentleman of the line of Mellent and Leicester. In 1445, they were ennobled by the title of Lord Hamilton. In 1474, James first Lord Hamilton married the Princess Mary, eldest daughter of James II. King of Scotland, and widow of Thomas Boyd, Earl of Arran. By this connection his descendants came to be declared 268 LANARKSHIRE. in Parliament, on the demise of James V., in the event of the death of Mary Queen of Scots, next heirs to the Crown, and have, in consequence, been ever since regarded as a branch of the royal family. They were created Dukes of Chatelherault, in France, on carrying Queen Mary thither. They were made Dukes of Ha- milton by Charles I. and Dukes of Brandon in England by Queen Anne. In consequence of the marriage of Anne Duchess of Ha- milton to Lord William Douglas, eldest son of William first Mar- quis of Douglas by his first wife, Lady Mary Gordon, the Hamil- ton family are now Douglasses by the male side. Buchanan, and some of his followers, represent the Hamiltons as dependents on the Douglasses, and as becoming great by betray- ing them to James H., who murdered the Earl of Douglas in Stir- ling Castle with his own hand, although he had a safeguard. It is farther asserted, that James III. forced the wife of Boyd, Earl of Arran, to forsake her husband, and marry Lord Hamilton. These statements, there is reason to believe, were invidious on the part of Buchanan, and made in order to please his patron the Earl Murray, a great enemy of the Hamiltons. Boetius (book 12, chap. 5,) says, that the first daughter of James II. was married to Lord Boyd, who had by her a son and a daughter; and that after the death of Lord Boyd, this daughter of James II. was married to Lord Ha- milton; in that way the Hamiltons are "decorit in the King's blood." This edition of Boetius was translated by Bellenden, who, being contemporary with the lady, is better authority than Buchanan, who lived a century after. Silverton Hill. — Silverton Hill, anciently Quhitecamp, the place from whence the Hamiltons of Silverton Hill take their title, has dwindled down to a small farm, which has repeatedly changed owners. This family broke ofi* from the ducal house in 1449. Sir Frederick Hamilton of Silverton Hill, Bart, collector of the East India Company's revenues at Benares, is the fourteenth in descent. Eamock, — The estate of Earnock, in the w^st of the parish, was for many generations the property of a family of the name of Ro- berton, the descendants of Robert, brother of Lambin Fleming, to whom Malcolm IV. gave these lands; part of which are now called Kennedies, and belong to Mr Roberton. Earnock was sold about fifty years ago to Mr Semple, and about 1810 to A. Millar, Esq. the present proprietor. Ross. — One-half of the lands of Ross or Inveravon were, by Robert Loudon, brother to Alexander II., conveyed to the monks of Kel- HAMILTON. 269 SO9 and the King granted a charter confirming the grant in 1222. Tlie half belonging to the monks was obtained by John, the brother of Walter Fitz Gilbert, about 1339, and the other half from Da- Tid, the son of Walter. Sir William Hamilton of Preston is the lineal representative of this family. The estate at present belongs to Captain Robertson Aikman. Motherwell. — The lands of Motherwell on the east of the Clyde, DOW in possession of the Hamilton family, were given by Malcolm IV. to a person of the name of Tancard, a Fleming, and his son, Thomas Fleming, disponed them to the monks of Paisley. There is a famous well here, dedicated formerly to the Virgin Mary, and hence the name Mother-well. Nieldand. — Nielsland was probably part of the territories of the Crocs of Crocstoun, who had the lands of Nielstone in Renfrewshire. This estate belonged, as far back as 1549, to John Hamilton de Nielsland. The first of this family was a younger son of Hamilton ofBaploch. In 1723, Grizel Hamilton, as sole proprietrix of Niels- land, &C, sold these lands to Margaret Bryson, widow of Mr John Muir, minister of Kilbride, in whose hands, and those of her heir, it remained for a few years. It is now the property of David Mar- shall, Esq. Bamcluith, — The estate of Barncluith belonged in ancient times to a family of the name of Machan, and came into the possession of a younger son of Sir Robert Hamilton of Bruntwood by marriage. Lord Pressmennan, a Senator of the College of Justice, and many other eminent individuals, were of this family. Of late, it became by marriage the property of Lord Ruthven. Allanshaw, Darngaber, Edlewood, Mirritoun, and Udstoun, formerly seats of different branches of the Hamiltons, are now mere farms. The Hamiltons of Fairliolm, descendants of the fourth son of Thomas Hamilton of Darngaber, are still a good family in the south-east side of this parish. Antiquities — Cadzow Castle. — The most prominent antiquity in the parish is Cadzow Castle, already alluded to.* It stands in Hamilton-wood, on the summit of a precipitous rock ; the base of vhich is washed by the Avon. It is not known who were its found- ers; although it is probable that Caw or Cay was the first of the royal race who took up their residence in this quarter. It con- tinued in the possession of the Crown until it was granted by Robert the Bruce to Sir Walter Fitz Gilbert. Ever since, with only two short • Datid I. dates his charter to the High Church of Glasgow from Cadzow Castle. 270 LANARKSHIBE. interruptions, it has been in the hands of his descendants. The first of the interruptions alluded to was about the year 1581, when it fell for a short time into the hands of Captain Stewart. The other sus- pension (equally short in duration) was in 1654, when, by Crom- well's act of grace and pardon, William Duke of Hamilton, de- ceased, was excepted from all benefit thereof, and his estates for- feited ; reserving out of them L. 400 per annum, to his Duchess during her life, and after her death, L. 100 per annum, to each of his four daughters, and their heirs for ever. The Castle of Cad- zow seems to have been repaired at different periods. The keep, with the fosse around it, a narrow bridge on the south, over the fosse, and a well inside, are still in good preservation, and are all of polished stone, of a reddish colour. Several vaults, and the walls, probably, of the chapel, and other offices, are still visible. Cadzow Castle has been celebrated in a fine ballad by Sir Wal- ter Scott. The Castle of Darngaber (t. e. the " house between the waters," or, as some have supposed, the " hiding place of the goats,") in the S. E. side of the parish, is said to have been built by Thomas de Hamilton, son of Sir John de Hamilton, Dominus de Cadzow. Its ruins stand on a small knoll at the extremity of a tongue of land, where two rivulets meet. The foundations only of this ancient fortress can now be traced. They are entire- ly of flat shingly stones, without lime, and seem never to have been subjected to a tool. Small vaults have been discovered, which are not arched, but drawn together as conduits sometimes are. It is probable, therefore, that Thomas de Hamilton did not build, but only repaired, this Castle. The most perfect, and indeed, the only tumulus, properly speak- ing, in this parish, is at Meikle Earnock, about two miles south of Hamilton. It is at present about 12 feet diameter, and 8 feet high. It was formerly much larger, and hollow at the top. When broken into, several urns were found, containing the ashes of hu- man bones, some of them accompanied by the tooth of a horse. There was no inscription seen, but some of the urns, which were all of baked earth, were plain, and others decorated with moulding, probably to distinguish the quality of the deceased. In the haugh, to the north of the palace, there is an ancient moat-hill, or seat of justice. It appears to be about 30 feet dia- meter at the base, and about 15 or 16 feet high, and is flat at the top. When it stood formerly in the midst of the town, it formed part of the garden of an alehouse, and was dressed with the spade. HAMILTON. 271 and adorned with plants. It cannot be less than eight or nine hun- dred years old, as no erections of the kind have been in use since the reign of Malcolm Canmore. — Near the moat-hiil is an ancient stone cross, about 4 feet high, bearing no inscription. It is said to have been the cross of the Netherton. In the south side of the parish a remarkable stone, about 6 feet high, but leaning considerably to one side, gives the name ** Crook- ed Stone" to the district. It is of freestone, and evidently very an- cient Mr Chalmers notices these bended stones as cromlechs, of Dniidical origin. A neighbouring farmer lately set it upright; leav- ii^ posterity to wonder why it was called ^* crooked stone." Among the antiquities of this place may be recorded the gardens at Bamcluith. There are here three dwelling-houses and three gardens, namely, an orchard, a kitchen, and flower- garden. The flower garden is cut out of a steep bank on the Avon, two or three hundred feet high, and is divided into five terraces. These are flanked by terrace walls, covered with espaliers of va. rious descriptions. The borders of the walks are crowded with a variety of evergreens cut into fantastic forms. In the centre of the great walk is a handsome pavilion, fitted up with rustic chairs, and other curious pieces of furniture. Here a pair of house-martins have constructed a nest on the skeleton of a dolphin's head, which is nailed to the wall above the fire-place. These gardens and buildings were probably constructed by John Hamilton of Barn- duith, commissary of Hamilton and Campsie, about 1583. This individual was son of Quintin Hamilton, who was killed fighting in the Queen's cause at the battle of Langside. Tradition says he was deeply skilled in mathematics. Palace. — Hamilton Palace was originally a square tower, about 20 feet long, and 16 feet wide. The old part of the house, as it now stands, was erected about 1591 ; and it was afterwards almost entirely rebuilt about 130 years ago. The front (now the back) bmg the south, was ornamented with pillars of the Corinthian order ; and two deep wings were added, in the form of a Roman R,much inHhe style of Greenwich Hospital. In 1822, additions, on an extensive scale, were begun under the present Duke by Mr Hamilton, as architect, and Mr Connel, (builder of Burns' Monu- ment at Ayr,) as builder, which promise to render the Palace of HaoDulton one of the largest and most magnificent structures of the kind in Britain. The modern part consists of a new front, £icing the north, 264 feet 8 inches in length, and three stories 272 LANARKSHIRE. high, with an additional wing to the west, for servants' apartments, 100 feet in length. A new corridor is carried along the back of the old building, containing baths, &c. The front is adorned by a noble portico, consisting of a double row of Corinthian columns, each of one solid stone, surmounted by a lofty pediment. The shaft of each column is upwards of 25 feet in height, and about 3 feet 3 inches diameter. These were each brought in the block about eight miles from a quarry in Dalserf, on an immense waggon constructed for the purpose, and drawn by thirty horses. The prin- cipal apartments, besides the entrance hall, are, the tribune, a sort of saloon or hall, from which many of the principal rooms enter ; a dining-room, 71 by 30; a library and billiard-room ; state bed- rooms, and a variety of sleeping apartments ; a kitchen-court, &c. The gallery, 120 feet by 20, and 20 feet high, has also been tho- roughly repaired. This, like all the principal rooms, is gilded and highly ornamented with marble, scagliolo, and stucco-work. The stables and offices, now erecting between the town and the Palace, are every way worthy of the splendid edifice of which they are an appropriate accompaniment. The palace stands close upon the town, on the upper border of the great valley, about half a mile west of the conflux of the Clyde and Avon. As a curious statistical fact, we may state, that there were employed in building the addition to the palace 28,056 tons, 8 cwts. and 3 quarters of stones, drawn by 22,528 horses. Of lime, sand, stucco, wood, &c. 5534 tons, 6 cwt., 1 quarter, 7^ lbs., drawn by 5196 horses. In drawing 22,350 slates, 62,200 bricks, with engine ashes, and coal-culm to keep down the damp, 731 horses were employed. Total days dur- ing which horses were employed for other purposes, 658^. In the stables, there are 7976 tons of stones, drawn by 5153 horses. Of lime, sand, slates, &c. 1361 tons, drawn by 1024 horses; besides 284 days of horses employed for other purposes. The stables, according to plan, are only about half-finished. Picture Gallei'y. — The interior equipments of Hamilton Palace are not less tasteful or magnificent than its exterior, and are a fair counterpart of the gorgeous pile in which they are contained. The collection of paintings, now greatly on the increase, has been long considered the best in Scotland. Daniel in the lion's den is a no- ble picture, and has often been described and admired. The por- traits of Charles I. in armour on a white horse, and of the Earl of Denbigh in a shooting dress, standing by a tree, with the muzzle of a gun grasped in his right hand, and the butt of it resting on HAMILTON. 273 the ground, with a little black boy on the opposite side of the tree pointing out the game — both by Vandyke — are also master-pieces of art An entombment of Christ by Poussin, an Ascension piece by Greorgione, a dying Madona by Corregio, a stag-hunt by Sney- der, a laughing boy by L. Da Vinci, and an admirable portrait of Napoleon by David, painted from life, by permission granted to the present Duke of Hamilton, are all well known works of art of great value. The east staircase contains a large altar-piece by Girolamo dai Libri, from San Lionardo nel Monte, near Verona, of the Castieri family, with a Madona and child placed in a chair above them — {vide Vasari, edition 1648.) In the breakfast-room is a picture by Giacomo da Puntormo of Joseph in Egypt receiv- ing his father and his brothers, into which is introduced the por- trait of Beronzino: {vide Vasari.) In the same room, by Luca Sig- Dorelli, the circumcision of the infant Christ, supposed to have been painted by Sodoma: {vide Vasari, edition 1648 :) and a portrait by Artonelli of Myeena, said to have been the first painter in oil, 1,474. This is still in a state of admirable preservation. The great gallery and principal apartments contain also a large collection of femily portraits, and other paintings, by Vandyke, Kneller, Ru- bens, Corregio, Guide, Rembrandt, Titian, the Carraccis, Salva- tor Rosa, Carlo Dolce, Guercino, Georgione, Poussin, Spagno- letti, Reynolds, Hamilton, &c. Here, if anywhere in Scotland, is " An art akin to nature's self, So mighty in its means, we stand prepared To see the life as lively mocked, as ever Still sleep mocked death." A number of antique vases adorn the principal rooms, particu- larly one in the new dining-room, of giallo-antico, in the form of a tripod, of great beauty, and of extraordinary dimensions, being 5 feet 3 inches in height, 14 feet 3 inches in circumference, and 9^ inches deep. The vase itself is supported by a circular central pil- lar of beautiful form, 'richly carved and fluted, and with three square fiuted pilasters at the sides, each resting on a lion's foot, and termi- iiating with a lion's head — the whole standing on a base of beautiful African marble. In the breakfast-room and small drawing-room are two slabs of porphyry upon gilt bronze legs, formerly composing part of an altar-piece at Rome. Both slabs are of oriental por- phjTv, of equal size, and of great beauty. In an adjoining room there is a cabinet covered with a slab of Malachite {Cuprum ^rwjo^ iin.) of the most splendent lustre imaginable. There are also a great many antique cabinets in the different apartments, enriched 274 LANARKSHIRE. with Mosaic and all sorts of precious stones ; particularly a casket of ebony ornamented with gilt bronze, and oriental stones in re* lief, formerly belonging to the Medici family. At the upper end of the gallery is the present Duke's ambassadorial throne, brought from his embassy at St Petersburgh, and placed between two an- tique magnificent busts of oriental porphyry, the one of Augustus and the other of Tiberius ; and on the walls, on each side of the throne, are two capital portraits of George III. and Queen Char* lotte, painted soon after their marriage. Fronting the throne, at the other end of the gallery, is a magnificent large architectural door of black marble, the pediment being supported by two orien- tal columns of green porphyry, unique in their kind, and supposed to be the finest of that material in Europe. These will afford a faint idea of the gorgeous splendour which reigns within the walls of Hamilton Palace. The collection of pictures may amount to about 2000 pieces, of which about 100 are at Chatelherault The value of the prints alone in the Duke's possession, none of which are ever exhibited to strangers, and many parcels of which, I be- lieve, are not yet unfolded, are worth from L. 10,000 to L. 15,000. It is impossible to form any idea of the value of the paintings. Many of the cabinets are worth L. 1500; and a single table has been estimated at L. 4000. The value of the plate, including a magnificent gold set, is probably about L. 50,000. Eamock House^ Sfc. — Eamock House is pleasantly situated on the higher grounds, in the west, amidst abundance of plantations. It is a modern square building, well adapted for a gentleman of mo- derate fortune. It has very fine pleasure grounds, and an excel- lent garden, tastefully laid out, and furnished with glass-houses both for fruits and plants. The houses at Ross, Fairhill, and Grovemount, are also large and handsome buildings, abounding with whatever can contribute to convenience or comfort. There are also respectable residences at Nielsland, Fairholm, and Edle- wood. There is a curious fog-house at Grovemount, of great di- mensions, tastefully conceived, and skilfully executed, which cost a considerable sum in fitting up. New Prison, Src. — On Tuesday, 10th June 1834, the foundation stone of the new prison and public offices was laid at Hamilton, with masonic honours.* The offices consist of a distinct building • The glass vessel containing the coins, newspapers, &c. having been deposited be- neath the plinth of one of the intended columns in front of the public offices, was dexterously dug into on the night of the 2d November 1834, and the most valuable part of the hoarded treasure extracted. The thieves who thus bearded justice in its own peculiar domains have not yet been detected. HAMILTON. 275 iQ front of the prison, of two stories. In the west end, in the lower flaty there are three rooms for the sheriff-clerk, with a record- room. The town-derk has four rooms in the east end. In the centre, there is a court room, 37 feet long, and 32 broad. In the upper story, there is a large hall, for county meetings, &c. 47 feet 10 inches by 32 feet, with an adjacent room, 15 feet by 12 feet l^ bch. The prison, which stands at a little distance behind, is three stories high. It is 80 feet 9 inches in length, and 32 feet 4 inches in breadth, comprising in all 45 cells, and 6 water-closets, with a large day room for debtors, 19^ feet by 13, and four other rooms for them, each 9 feet by 7^, besides two day rooms for other prisoners. The first flat, with 12 cells, is to be used as a Bride- well The second flat has 16 cells and 4 day rooms. The up- per flat is to be appropriated to debtors. It also contains separate apartments for females. The governor's house stands between tbe pubUc ofiices and the prison. In the under story, there is a kitchen, a servants' room and bed-room, and a bath for the gaol. There are four apartments in the upper story. The prison and goremor's house are to be surrounded with a wall 15 feet high, iodosiog a large court, half an acre in extent. These buildings are now in a forward state. They stand on the high grounds, to the west of the town, on the Blantyre road, near the Cavalry Bar- racks. The old prison and court-hall at the Cross, built in the reign of Charles I., are soon to be demolished. The present town-hall, near the old gaol, has also been bought up. The butcher-market, with shambles, stand on the brink of Cadzow bum, near the middle of the town. This is a modern erection of •^pectable appearance. The meal-market, in the Muir Wynd, bas long been in disuse. The public fire-engines, ladders, &c. are kept here. There are other fire-engines belonging to the pa- lace and barracks ; and an old ladder is pointed out, which is said to have been used at public executions. The Cavalry Barracks are much in the style of those at Perth and Edinburgh. Besides stables, with accommodation above for the men, there are officers' barracks, an hospital, and riding-room. These occupy a large «pace of ground/ and are surrounded by a high wall. III. — Population. The state of the population at different times is as follows : Years. Population. Years. Population. Years. Population. 1755, 3815 1801, 5911 18'21, 7613 1791, 5017 1811, 0453 1831, 9513 The total increase, since 1755, is 5698, or about 75 per annum. 276 LANARKSHIRE. From a census taken some months ^o, and which seems to be ac- curate, there has been an increase of 309, which may be attri- buted to the introduction and flourishing condition of a lace-ma- nufactory, which now employs a great many females. Out of 9d22 males and females, there are in this parish : mUakm. Agt, jypmSalkm. Age, 1-313 uodcr 6 6^$ - 50 to 00 1-247 . 5 to 10 «28 60 to 70 tfl027 . 10 to -20 218 70 to 80 1614 . 20 to 30 39 upwards of 80 1200 - 30 to 4«> 913 . 40tojO 9^22 Pofmlatioa of the town, by census 1831, 7490 in Tillages, - do. 500 in the eountrj, do. 1523 The following tables of births, marriages, and deaths, are from authentic sources. The baptisms in the parish church for the last seven years were as follows : Vcart. Baptisms. Marriages. .Dfoths. Fearw. Baptisms. 145 1827. 146 83 177 1831, 1828, 137 69 196 1832, 162 1829, 124 65 248 1833, 136 1830, 150 97 157 Marriagts. DetOu. 79 261 75 267 96 220 The average of baptisms is 140 ; and, if to these we add 200 for the Dissenters, the whole will be 343. Considerably more than 200 per annum are baptized in the meeting-houses of the Dissenters ; but a large proportion of these are from neighbouring parishes. The average of marriages is 81. The average of deaths is 218. The number of males and females who died in each month, between November 1832 and November 1833^ is as follows : Months. Males. Females. November, 11 15 December, 10 6 January, 11 7 February, 9 9 March, 9 8 April, 10 8 Mantlts. Males. Females. May, 10 8 June, 12 10 July, 15 21 A ugust. . 7 16 September, 4 10 October, 19 22 60 53 67 87 The whole gives 127 males, and 140 females. This was the year of the cholera, — a disease which carried off many individuals, par- ticularly females. There appears in this parish to be one baptism per annum to 27 persons, one burial to 45, and one marriage to 117 nearly. Throughout the whole of England the proportion is 33, 49, and 120 ; and in Wales, 37, 60, and 136. The advantage is every way on the side of the above countries ; but this does not proceed from any superiority in their climate or mode of living, but merely from the fact, that the averages above alluded to, take in HAMILTON. 277 town and country, whereas as regards this parish, they refer only to a manufacturing population, a great proportion of whom are doomed to damp shops, stooping postures, meager fare, and long hours. The rural districts of Scotland offer very different results. The following is the number who died monthly, between 1833 and 18d4. It will be found to fall short of the corresponding year above by 20 ; the number buried in the Relief burying-ground, are not included in this list. NomnbcTy 14 February, 19 May, 22 August, 15 December, 14 March, 15 June, 14 September, 18 January, 19 AprU, 11 July, 13 October, 26 47 45 49 59 There are on an average about 10 still-bom children per annum. In the cholera year there were 14. Some people occasionally ar- rive here at a great age ; but there are few at present above ninety. The property of the parish is possessed by 133 heritors. Be- sides the noble family, there are about eight gentlemen of indepen- dent fortune. Sixteen individuals occupy land to the value of L. 50 per annum, and upwards. There are about 38 unmarried men, 50 Tears of age and upwards ; 150 widows, and about 100 unmarried women, above 45. The number of families in the town is 1670 ; and in the country, 388. The average number of children in each family is 4^. There are 710 inhabited houses in the town, and 303 in the country. About 8 houses are now building, and none are un- inhabited. Number of insane, fatuous, blind, deaf, dumb, 15. Many poor persons of this class were cut off in 1833. During the last three years there have been 110 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. FamiUes connected with agriculture, (farmers 40, labourers 95,) - 135 ^>le$ employed in manufactures, (in the town, 1135, in the country, 122,) 1257 ^>les employed in retail trade, and handicraft, (in the town, 639, in country, 102,) 741 Merchants, bankers, and professional men, (in the town, 112, in the country, 24) '136 *^urers not agricultural, (in the town, 193, in the country, 59,) - 252 ^^ not included in the above classes, (in the town, 535, in the country, 131,) 666 ^e-fervants above 20 years, (in the town, 16, in the country, 14,) - 30 Uile.fienrant8 under 20 years, (in the town, 3, in the country, 2,) - 5 denude servants, (in the town, 170, in the country, 127,) - - 297 Agriculture. — The surface of this parish may thus be divided. Coarse and waste lands, _ - - 2040 acres. Woods, ... - - 2000 Channels of rivers, sites of towns, villages, and roads, 2100 Orchards, . - - - 100 Arable, ... - 8000 14,240 The whole of this district is remarkably well-fenced and wood- LANARK. T 278 LANARKSHIRE. ed; and when seen from the higher grounds on the east of the Clyde^ appears like a large well-fltodLed orchard or garden. The coarse and waste lands are chiefly on the outskirts of the parish, in the south and west. The principal woods are Bar- Michael wood, (Michael's Fort,) near Both well Bridge, Ross wood on the Clyde, and Hamil- ton wood on the Avon, and Barncluith burn. Spontaneous coppices rise every where, near the sides of the rivers and bums, and where- ever the banks obtain a sufficient elevation, they are entirely veiled in a mass of foliage. Forest trees of all kinds, capable of standing the climate of Scotland, thrive, especially in the lower parts of the parish. Sopne of them attain to a great age. On poor land in high exposures, the larch, since it has been introduced, has thriven better than any others. Next to it is the Scots fir. The silver fir, the spruce, the Pinus bahamea or Balm of Gilead fir, the pitch pine, and the Pinus Canadensis are also often planted. In one place the Pinus cedrus^ or cedar of Lebanon, has attained a good- ly size. But in Hamilton wood there is little or no fir, and the hard- wood is abundant. The " old oaks" behind Cadzow Castle cover se- veral hundred acres, and are evidently of great antiquity.* Many of the trees have attained an enormous size, measuring 36 feet in cir- cumference. One near Wood House, called the " boss tree," is ca- pable of containing at one time eight individuals of the ordinary size. The chase in which these venerable comhaters of time are now vege- tating is browzed by about four-score white cows of the ancient Bri- tish breed. Their bodies are milk-white, their ears, muzzles, and hoofs black, and the shin in front, above the hoof, is mottled with black. They are perfectly docile, except when they have calves. On these occasions they manifest an uncommon attachment to their young, by carefully concealing them when dropt, and defending them when attacked. The varieties of the ox are very numerous, and mav be multiplied to almost any extent. This variety bears the greatest resemblance in colour to the Madagascar, Tinian, and African ox. A good many fallow deer are fed in a field on the opposite bank of the Avon. Orchards. — The cultivation of the orchards, although not carried to such a length, nor perhaps so well understood as in some of the neighbouring parishes, is still not entirely neglected. A great^pfo- portion of the houses both in the town and country have gardens • Some of these are English oaks, supposed to have been planted by King David^ fir^t Earl of Huntingdon, about the year 1140. HAMILTON. 279 or orchards attached to them ; and when the fruit sold better than at present, these sometimes brought considerable sums. Pears thrive better than apples. The jargonelle, when on the wall, arrives here at great perfection. Some very large crops have been gathered of late. Currants, gooseberries, and other small fruit are also cultivated in lai^ge quantities, and mostly disposed of at Glasgow. The goose- berries, however, have been greatly deteriorated of late in quality, by the injudicious practice of introducing new sorts from England, which is naturally not so good a climate for gooseberries as Scot- land. . EuAandry. — The crops sown here are, wheat, oats, pease, beans, barley, hay, some flax, and great quantities of potatoes. Wheat K raised on all the lands on the Clyde, and also on some of the Sums in the higher part of the parish. It is either sown on fallow or after potatoes, but seldom after oats or pease and beans. The time of sowing is from the end of August to the 1st of November. The quantity sown is from 7 to 12 pecks, Linlithgow measure, per Scots acre; the produce from 8 to 16 bolls of the same mea- sure. Oats is the principal spring corn. From two-thirds to three- fourths of the land tilled is sown with this seed. Late seed is sown on the lower and earlier grounds, and early seed on the higher and later grounds. Tweeddale and Blainsley oats have long been known. The Polish, Essex, Friesland, or great Dutch and red oats have also been tried. But of the new sorts the potato oat is the best. From 12 to 18 pecks, county measure, are sown on the acre; and the produce varies from 4 to 18 bolls. Pease and beans are chiefly ^ised on the lower grounds. These are, for the most part, or- tlinary horse-beans, and a kind of late gray pease, usually accom- panying them. From 14 to 18 pecks, wheat measure, are sown on an acre, and they sometimes yield as much as 18 bolls of the ^e measure. Formerly a considerable quantity of barley of an excellent quality was produced here, particularly in the lower parts **ftbe parish; but the backward springs, and cold inconstant ^nmmers, which began to prevail towards the end of last cen- ^, have almost banished it from this quarter of the country. It • •s now seldom sown, except for the purj^ose of cleaning and pre- Nng land for the reception of artificial grasses. Hed, white, and yellow clover, rye-grass, &c. are cultivated for hay and pasture, *nd no person now lays down land to rest without sowing the seeds <>f these plants upon it. The produce of hay is from one to three ^ns per acre, besides an after-growth, which is generally pastured 280 LANARKSHIRE, on, or cut for green food, the autumn being seldom favourable for making it into hay. A little flax is occasionally sown for domestic use. Rye thrives well below trees, and might be profitably intro- duced into orchards. A great many new, or natural grasses, have been brought into cultivation ; but it remains to be seen whether this practice will turn out most profitable to the agriculturist or the seedsman. Potatoes are planted from the middle of April to the middle of May, principally in drills made by the plough. Many families in the town take small plots of ground for the season, from the neighbouring farmers, which they plant with this root. Large fields of potatoes are also sold in lots to the town's people when they are ready for digging. Upwards of twenty«four tons have been taken from an acre. Eighty bolls were this season produiced on a single acre, about two miles from Hamilton. The rare oc- currence of famines in the present day is chiefly to be attributed to the abundance of this root; and yet, Cobbet, to establish a theory, would deprive the poor of this table, which " God has prepared for them in the presence of their enemies." The potatoes threat- ened a failure in some places about the end of the summer. When the diseased plants were pulled up, the seed was found to swarm with little black worms or maggots ; but whether these anunals were the cause of the disease, or the mere attendants of that cor- ruption by which it was followed, we are not prepared to decide. The culture of carrot, turnips, cabbage, &c. is scarcely practised here, except in gardens. Turnips now sell at 3d. per stone, and carrots at 6d. The modes of cultivation and rotation of crops are so various that it is impossible to give any idea of the average quantity of land applied to any particular purpose. The dairy is here an ob- ject of considerable importance. The milk is mostly made into butter and butter-milk of excellent quality, and sold in the town. About 110 milk cows supply the town with sweet-milk. There are in the parish altogether about 900 dairy cows, besides young stock. The feeding of calves is also well understood, although a few still send slink or unfed veal to market ; a revolting prac- tice which, for the benefit both of seller and consumer, ought to be put down by law. The cows here are a slight variety of the Ayrshire breed. They arc a little longer in the leg, rounder in the body, and not quite so heavy in the hind quarters ; but hand- somer, and equally good milkers. They are mostly red-brown, more or less mixed with white. A moderately good milk-cow gives HAMILTON. 281 eight Scotch pints, or sixteen quarts a day; and many of them give upwards of twice that quantity. During the summer months cer- tain cows have been known to yield a pound of butter per day. This, however, is much beyond the average produce of the dairy, and it is perhaps near the truth when we average each cow at from L. 4 to L. d of profit per annum. Rent of Land, — The average rent of grazing is from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, 10s. per cow or ox. Farms are mostly let on leases of nineteen years ; but in some instances they are only let from year to year. The rent is paid in money, or occasionally in grain. The amount paid varies with the soil. In the higher grounds few spots let on permanent lease for less than 15s. per acre ; while in the lower farms on the Clyde the rent is as high as L. 3 and L. 3, 10s. per acre. A very lai^ proportion of the parish lets at from L. 1, 5s. to L. 2, 5s. per acre. Some fields near the town which have lain long in pasture have been let for a few years at upwards of L. 12 per acre. Much of the pasture in the haughs brings up- wards of L. 4 per acre. About 1500 cows and oxen are annually fed in this parish. The tilling of the ground employs about 280 horses. Witkie's iron plough is now almost universally used. Rate of Wages. — Labourers have from Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per day, with victuals, and 2s. without. When regularly employed their wages are from 9s. to 10s. per weeL Women have from 6d. to lOd. per day. Upwards of 130 masons are now employed at from 2s. lOd. to 3s. a-day. Mason's labourers have 10s. a-week; car- penters have about 2s. 8d. a day; or from 16s. to 18s. a week. Much has of late been done in fencing and draining. The hedges on the Duke's estate, in particular, are remarkably well kept. Among the disadvantages with which the agriculturist has to contend are, small farms, deficiency of capital, and competition for leases, by which too much is offered, and thus the farmer too frequently is little better than the servant of the laird ; at the same time, it ought to be remarked, that the rental of land is ge- nerally supposed to be somewhat lower here than in some other places in the neighbourhood. This may probably arise from the fact, that clay soils are cultivated at more expense than any other description, as requiring greater force of men, cattle and implements, and absorbing an immense quantity of manure. (Quarries. — There are six freestone quarries in the parish, wrought by upwards of fifty men. The number of colliers is about 120. The average gross rental of the landward part of the parish is 282 LANARKSHIRE. L. 11,537, 6s. 3d.; and of the burgh L. 8638, 4's. T^d. Total L. 20,175, 19s. lOd. nearly. Produce. — The average gross amount of produce raised, as far as can be ascertained, is as follows: Produce of grain of all kinds, - - L. 14,9^ Of hay, potatoes, &c. - - - - 7»336 Of lands in pasture, - - - - 6,000 Gardens, and orchards, - - - - 600 Coals, quarries, and metals, ... 3,000 Miscellaneous produce, - . - . 1 ,000 Total yearly value of raw produce, - L. 32,265 Cambric Weaving. — Hamilton has been the principal seat of imi- tation cambric weaving since the introduction of the cotton trade into Scotland. The reeds run from 1200 to 3000, which are the finest setts that cotton has been wrought into. The number of looms in Hamilton is 1291, and in the country 53. This was at one time a thriving branch of trade, which in the course of fifty years added to Hamilton whole streets of houses, chiefly built and inhabited by industrious weavers. For the last fifteen or twenty years, however, it has been on the decline ; and, if possible, is still getting worse. The average wages are from 6d. to Is. 6d. per day ; out of which must be deducted Is. a-week for expenses, and 10s. per annum for loom-rent. A house with a room and kitchen, and a four-loom shop, lets at from L. 5 to L. 6. Many of the older and more experienced hands better their circumstances considerably by teaching apprentices. The females are employed in winding weft, or in tambouring. Lace^Manufactory^ 8fc. — The old lace-manufactory of this place, which was introduced by one of the Duchesses of Hamilton, has for many years been all but extinct. But about eight years ago a Mr Galloch introduced a new manufactorv of lace, which was im- proved on by Mr John Gowans, and is still increasing. About twelve respectable houses are now engaged in this lucrative and thriving branch of trade, and new firms are daily forming. It employs upwards of 2500 females, in this and the neighbouring parishes. The lace is a sort of tamboured bobinette. Vast quantities of black silk veils of pecuUar patterns are also manufactured here. There is a great and increasing demand for both of the above ar- ticles throughout the whole of Britain, and also in America, and the colonies. A weaver's wife can make higher wages at this trade than her husband. Many thousands of check-shirts have of late been manufactured here, and sent out to Australasia. The stock- HAMILTON. 283 ing weaving, tanneries, saddle, and shoe trades seem to have dwin- dled away considerably, since the publication of the former Statis- tical Account. V. — Parochial Economy. Town, — The town of Hamilton stands on a rising ground, gent- ly sloping towards the east, about a mile west of the conflux of the Avon with the Clyde. Cadzow burn runs nearly through it. The ancient town stood farther to the east, in the Duke's plea- sure grounds, and was called the Netherton. That part of the present town which stands near the flesh-market and the public green, appears to be the most ancient. The rocks behind the flesh-market are about twenty feet high, and were once occupied by a mansion, called the Ha' or Hall, of which an antique dove-cot, (which gives the name of Doo-cot-ha' to the place) is the only me- morial now remaining. On the opposite side of the bum, stood a mill, called the Ha' Mill, which has given the name of ^^ Shilling Hill" to the street where it stood. When the tuuj touj or town collected round this place it was called Ha-mill-ton. So says tradition ; but history, which is more to be depended on, gives, as we have al* ready seen, a different and more satisfactory account. The date of the foundation of the lower town cannot now be ascertained. It has been long swept away. But that the upper town is also of great antiquity appears from the fact, that it was considerable enough to be erected into a burgh of barony in the year 1456 by James IL In 1548, Hamilton was created a royal burgh by Queen Mary ; but Bailies James Hamilton and James Naismith consented to resign that privilege in 1670, by accepting of a char- ter from Duchess Anne, by which Hamilton was constituted the chief burgh of the regality and dukedom of Hamilton. A law- suit was entered into by the magistrates, &c in 1723, before the Court of Session, for the restoration of their ancient rights ; but it was not till 1832, that the inhabitants were reinvested with the privi- lege of sending a member to the House of Commons. There are at present about 300 ten pound franchises upon the roll. At last municipal election, 126 voted on the radical interest, and 118 for the more moderate party. There were about 55 votes unpolled. The town is in the hands of a Provost, three Bailies, a Trea- surer, a Town-Clerk, and seven Councillors. Four new councillors are elected annually, the four eldest on the list going out. Revenues of the Town. — The revenues of the town are consider- able, and arise chiefly from lands within the burgh, and shares in k 284 LANARKSHIRE. Hamilton Bridge, &c. The sums received and paid out by the treasurer, from 5th November 1833, to 15th October 1834, are as under : Sums received. Sums paid. Rent Roll, - L. 1125 13 6 Among these, some of the most promi- Note charged in rent-roll, 160 2 nent are, Sums recovered, - 59 22 2 For new prison, - L. 329 3 9 Tlie following are some of the items of Minister's stipend, - 2 2 94 the above sums. Schoolmaster's salarj, &c, 32 11 1| Rental for crop, 1833, 608 12 11 Mortifications, - - 57 17 4 From shares of bridge, - 55 5 Public lamps, - - 155 16 4 Burgess Tickets, - 17 15 1 Support of streets, - 822 18 3 Customs, - - 39 3 94 Fire-engines and insurance, 8 3 4 Street manure, - - 21 9 I^w.suits, - - 228 15 8 Green and holtos crop 1834, 12 13 Road money, - - 46 Gas dividend, - - 14 ToUl discharge, includ- Tot. charge against Treasu- ing a great variety of rer,includ. other sums is L. 2613 17 2 difterent sums, . L. 2796 2 0| The town-court is held on Thursdays. This is also the seat of the Sheriff-court for the middle ward. About twenty-five procura- tors are licensed to practise before it ; of whom eighteen belong to Hamilton. The court day is Friday. The Justice of Peace Court sits on the first Monday of every month. There are also a record of seisins, a tax-office, a stamp- office, and an excise-oflSce. In 1816 a Trades Hall was erected in Church Street. There is a spacious hall in the upper storey for the meetings of the trades, while in the under flat there is every accommodation for a respect- able tavern. Besides numerous societies or trades, (which are all in terms of the act 5th William IV. chap. 40) there are a St John's Lodge No 7, and two other mason lodges, two gardener's societies, and a Wallace friendly society. Gas-Work. — A gas-work, on a very elegant plan, was erected in Hamilton by subscription, in the summer of 1831, at the expense of L.2400. Three hundred L. 10 shares were subscribed, of which L. 8 has only been uplifted, and from the advance in the price of such shares as have been transferred, there is a fair prospect of the subscribers being liberally remunerated for their outlay. From ex- periments made at this work by Mr Burns, the present maqager, it appears that a cubic foot of the richest cannel coal produces about 400 cubic feet of gas. The price of gas when sold by me- ter is 10s. per 1000 cubic feet, or Is. per 100 cubic feet. Every cubic foot is nearly equal to "five imperial gallons ; of course 500 imperial gallons only cost Is. which is at the rate of about dd. per puncheon. Besides private lights there are now about 130 gas lamps illuminated throughout the town for nine months in the HAMILTON. 285 year, from sunset to sunrise, with the exception of five nights at each full moon. Svpply of Water. — On Saturday, 24th May 1834, an attempt was made in this town to bring into operation the Burghs Police Bill (3 and 4 William IV. c. 46, 14th August 1833,) in whole or in part, but more especially as regarded bringing a better supply of water into the town. As the franchise in that case embraces all persons "occupying premises of the value of not less than L. 10," a great many individuals came forward and threw out the bill. It cannot, of course, be brought forward again in less than three years. It has since been proposed to form a water company, with a ca- pital of L. 2000, divided into 500 shares, of L. 4 each. The wa- ter is to be brought in pipes, from two different quarters ; the unit- ed distance of both places being .about three miles, and the aver- age diameter of the pipes in which it is to be brought three inches. This proposal is not yet carried into effect Means of Commtmicationj ^c. — Hamilton is lOf miles S. E. of Glasgow, 36 W. of Edinburgh, 15 N. W. of Lanark, 7 N. of Strathaven, and 8 miles S. of Airdrie. The market-day is Friday. This town, along with Falkirk, Lanark, LinUthgow, and Airdrie, has the privilege of sending a Member to Par- liament. There are in the parish about 15 miles of turnpike road, and about 30 miles of parochial roads. The great Glas- gow and London road passes through the town ; and also an Edin- burgh and Ayr road. This last was made in the year 1755, and, if we except the road between Glasgow and Edinburgh, was the first great turnpike road which was made in Scotland. A new road to Ayr was lately opened, about seven miles to the south of this. A great improvement is now making in Hamilton on the London road, for the purpose of avoiding the brae in Muir Street, and cutting off the awkward elbow at the cross. The new line of road is upwards of 700 yards in length. Above Hamilton Green it crosses the rivulet Cadzow by a stupendous bridge of three arches, each 6.0 feet span. The top of the parapet wall is about 60 feet above the bed of the burn. The contract is about L.2050. A handsome new bridge on the same line of road was lately thrown across the Avon. A few hundred yards above it, there is-an old bridge of three arches, which is said to have been built at a very remote period, at the expense of the monks belonging to the mo- nastery at Lesmahagow. Hamilton Bridge over the Clyde, on the Edinburgh road, is a handsome structure with five arches. It was 286 LANARKSHIRE. built by authority of an act of Parliament, and was finished in 1780. It is still burdened with pontage for foot-passengers. Both- well Bridge over the Clyde, on the road to Glasgow, is undoubted- ly the oldest structure of the sort in Lanarkshire. It is not known when it was built. It was till lately only 12 feet wide, but it has now 32 feet of road- way. There is a private bridge over the Avon at Fairholm, and another at Ross. The Glasgow and London mail-coach passes through Hamilton twice a-day; at thirty minutes past eight in the morning, for London, and at fifteen minutes before one in the afternoon for Glasgow. There are Glasgow and Edin- burgh bags at thirty minutes to eight morning, thirty minutes to twelve noon, and at five afternoon. There is also a post between Hamilton and Strathaven. The gross revenue of the post-office here is at an average L. 982 per annum. Thirty years ago there was only one coach on the Wednesdays between Hamilton and Glasgow ; at present there are seven coaches daily, besides the mail-coach. Other seven coaches daily pass and repass to places south of Hamilton. About 128 horses are kept in the town, of which number seventy are employed in this trade. Flesh-market — The number of cattle slaughtered in the sham- bles at Hamilton during the following periods is as follows : Cows S[ oxen. Calves. Sheep, Lambs. Hogs, From 1st April to 30th October 1831, 428 548 924 39 22 ^ 1st November to 30th April 1831, 445 534 960 202 19 1 St May to 3 1 St October 1 832, 311 420 1 029 835 1 1 1st November to 30th April 1832, 354 424 615 2 20 1st May to 1st October 1833, 270 310 859 758 13 Consumed in 42 months, - - 1808 2236 4387 1836 85 Ecclesiastical State. — The year 1585 is the epoch of the Pres- byteries of Lanark and Glasgow. About 1590, or earlier, the large Presbytery of Glasgow was dismembered, by the erection of the Presbyteries of Hamilton and Paisley. The parishes of Eagles- ham, Cathcart, and Carmunnock, belonged to Hamilton Presby- tery till 1596, when they were restored to Glasgow, and the parish of Kilbride substituted in their place. This Presbytery includes the fourteen parishes of the Middle Ward.* The oldest date in the Presbytery records is 6th September 1687. The oldest date in the parochial register is 15th January 1650. The books of the town-council go back only to 3d October 1701 ; but it is believed that many older ones, at a remote period, got into the possession of private individuals, and still exist. • A new Relief Presbytery has lately been e8tal)lished in this town, including tell congregations; Rev. Mr M*Farlane of Hamilton, Clerk. HAMILTON. 287 The ancient parish of Cadzow, now Hamilton, included former- ly the chapelry of Machan, (2. e. the " little plain,") now the pa- rish of Dalserf. Chalmers, in his Caledonia, (Vol. iii. p. 683,) informs us, that " David I. with consent of his son, Earl Henry, granted the church of * Cadihou,' with its pertinents, in perpe- tual alms to the church and bishops of Glasgow, and this grant was confirmed by the bulls of several popes, inter 1170 and 1186." The church of Cadzow, with the lands of Barlanerk and Badler- nock, became afterwards the appropriate prebend of the Dean of the see of Glasgow. In 1273, William Frazer, a younger son of the Frazers of Tweeddale, was Dean of Glasgow and Rector of Cadzow, when he was appointed Chancellor of Scotland. In 1454, Andrew Muirhead, a son of Muirhead of Sauchope, was Rector of Hamilton, and afterwards Bishop of Gla^ow. Hamilton, by the in- fluence of the first Lord Hamilton, was made a collegiate charge in 1451 ; and thereupon a new church was built with a choir, two cross aisles, and a steeple, all of polished stone, and highly orna- mented. It was finished in April 1462, and George de Graham appointed Provost. The patronage of this establishment was vest- ed in Lord Hamilton ; but the patronage of the parish church of Hamilton continued, as before, with the Bishop of Glasgow. Man- ses, gardens, and glebes were provided for the provost and eight prebends; besides a mande, garden and glebe, for a chaplainry, de- dicated to the Virgin Mary. There is a farm at Edlewood still called the chapel At the epoch of the Reformation, Mr Archi- bald Karry, " the vicar pensioner," had twenty merks yearly ; and the dean had L. 349 in money, 16 bolls of meal, 24 bolls of oats, and 24 capons yearly. A plate of the old collegiate church is given by Grose in his Antiquities of Scotland. This building continued till 1732. One of the cross aisles still remains, and is used as a burying-place by the Hamilton family. On a stone cross, on one of the walls, is cut out ** Galatians, chapter vi. verse 14." After Popery had been abolished in Scotland, and the Presby- terian form of worship introduced by the act 1588^ c. 99, had b§en established by that of 1592, c J 16 — two ministers were settled in Hamilton, upon a provision of eighteen chalders of victual. Read- ers or catechists seem also to have been appointed in this parish. In 1574, Mr John Davidson, minister, together with the kirk-land of Hamilton, had out of the third of the deanery of Glasgow L 82, 1 Is. Id., and out of the third of the priory of Blantyre, L27, 158. 6d., together with L.23, and 18 bolls of meal out of 288 LANARKSHIRE. the parsonage of Cambuslang. Mr Robert Raa, reader at Hamil- ton, had L. 22, 4s. 5d. of stipend. In 1590, Mr Davidson was first minister, and Mr Gavin Hamilton, second minister, of Hamilton. The latter had 4 chalders*and 4 bolls of bear, 1 chalder 4 bolls of meal, and 12 bolls of wheat Mr John Raa, reader, had out of the vicarage of Hamilton L. 4, 8s. lOd. and out of the deanery of Glasgow, L. 17, 15s. 6d. For many years after, there was only one minister, with a stipend payable out of the third of the dean- ery of Glasgow. By the act 1606, c. 1, the bishops were restored to their temporalities; and by 1617, c. 2, the manses, glebes, and other patrimony, with certain restrictions, were also restored. With the interruption only of the period of Cromwell's usurpation, epis- copacy continued down to 1689, when presbytery was fully restored* Soon after (May 13th 1692) Mr Robert Wylie, formerly minis- ter of Askirk, was admitted minister of Hamilton, on the under- standing, that, 9& formerly^ he was to have a colleague. In that view, an address was presented to the presbytery, praying leave to give a call to Mr Alexander Findlater, who having been lately set- tled in the parish of Avondale, was very reluctant to quit his flock. Strong objections were accordingly made by Mr Findlater and the commissioners from Hamilton, which ended in a reference by the presbytery to the synod. After a good deal of procedure, which was carried the length of suspending Mr Findlater for resisting to be removed to Hamilton, he at length complied, and was admitted as second minister, January 9, 1695. Mr Wylie, the first minister, complains that " the presbytery were so far from assisting him in getting Hamilton provided with another minister, conform to their promise to him at his entry, that they did, without any valid ground, what in them lay to impede the same." Of all the heritors who con- curred in attaining this desirable object, none was more anxious to carry the measure into execution than Anne Duchess of Hamilton. The present church stands on a high ground (at one period) to the south of the town; but it is now more centrical, from the streets which have been built to the south and west. The body of the church is a circle with four cross aisles. The design, which in ^neral is accounted very elegant, was by Adam the elder. It is capable of containing about 800 sitters. The minister of the first charge has a glebe of about twenty-seven acres, which was ex- cambed some years ago for three acres and a-half in the Ha- milton haughs. No manse has as yet been erected upon it. The minister of the second charge has a manse but no glebe. The HAMILTON. 289 stipeQd of both is the same, Damely, 16 chalders, half meal, half barley, payable iQ money, at the highest fiar prices of the county, L. 5 Sterling for communion elements, and L. 2, 15s. 6d. to each of the ministers, according to use and wont. The number of com- municants male heads of families is about 260. The charge is about to be uncoUegiated quoad sacra, A new church, capable of contain- ing 1100, and proposed to be in connection with the establishment, is now building.* Of the various sectaries prevailing here, the Relief is the most prosperous. There are two meeting houses of this persuasion, one built in 1761, in Muir Street; and another erect- edin Brandon Street in 1832. The old congregation give their pas- tor L 200 per annum, including a manse ; the second congregation give L 100 per annum, without a manse. An Antiburgher meeting bouse was erected at Blacks-well in 1761, and a New Light Burgher house, near the church, towards the end of last century. These are not iu so thriving a state as their neighbours. A tabernacle, in con-- wciiwi with the Congregational Union of Scotland, has lately been ro-opened in Black's-well, and an interim preacher appointed. The Old Scots Independents have a meeting house in an upper cham- ber in the Back-of-the-barns. The Macmillans or Cameroni- ^s have also preaching in a hall once a month, and are attempt- Uf to establish a station here. The Roman Catholics have public Worship once a month in the Mason's Lodge. It is well attend- ed by the Irish. The priest comes up from Glasgow. There are few of any other sect. There are several Bible and Missionary Societies, and also a very useful Orphan Society, for which fre- quent contributions are made. The collections at the church door ^n public occasions are usually from L. 12 to L. 18. Siittngs. Parish Church, 800 St John's Church 1 1()0 Relief Church, Muir Street, 1105 Relief Church, Brandon Street, 940 Antiburgher Church, Hlack's-well, . . . 582 New Light Burgher Church, ..... 700 Congregational Chapel Black's-well, . . . 240 Old Scots Independents, 70 5537 The Cameronians have lately obtained a disjunction from the congregation at Wishaw-town, and meet regularly here once a nionth ; as do also the Roman Catholics once in six weeks. The ' A proportion of not less than one-sixth of the whole is reserved for the poor. Kfty of the sittings are let at 28. each, and the rest rise by a graduated scale of fiW. on ««ch row till they reach 6$., which is the highest price of any in the church. 290 LANARKSHIRE. number of families Dissenting or Seceding is 907; of Roman Catholic families, 45. Educatioiu — Number of schools in this parish at last examina- tion, and the number of scholars attending each. - Schoiara* Grammar-school, - - - . - . 35 13 English schools, - - - 722 Boarding-school for young ladies, . - . ■ - . 20 Do. do. ■ • - - 50 Writing school, - - - ' - 80 English School, Low- Waters, - . 33 Do. do. Earnock, - - - 12 Do. do. Darngaber, - - - 45 The salary of the grammar-schoolmaster is L. 34, 4s. : and his fees may amount to L. 50. As session-clerk he has about L. 30 per annum. The fees paid at the grammar-school are 7s. 6d. for Latin, and lOs. 6d, for L#atin and Greek, per quarter. The ladies' school fees are from 5s. to 10s. 6d. per quarter. The grammar-school of Hamilton is of ancient date,, and has no doubt been instrumental in producing that superior civilization, courtesy of manners, and ardent pursuit of . literature, for which many of the inhabitants of the place are : supposed to be distinguish- ed. In 1588 we find Lord John Hamilton granting a bond, still in possession of the corporation, settling for ever on that school the yearly sum of L.20 pounds Scots. The present school-house is a venerable pile, near the centre of the town, containing a long wainscotted hall, emblazoned with the names of former scholars, cut out in the wood, as at Harrow. Many of these are from fo- reign climes, and from all parts of Britain. Pillans, Whale, Gil- lies, and other eminent teachers have been masters of this school ; and the present teacher, the Rev. George Shaw, is not inferior in classical attainments, assiduity and success as a teacher, to any of his predecessors. The ladies' schools have also been of great ser- vice in instructing the understandings, and in contributing to the accomphshments, useful and ornamental, of the female sex. The Hamilton Sabbath School Society has under its charge 7 schools and 238 scholars. The number of scholars attending the Societies' schools are not so numerous as formerly, as a number of the town clergy have commenced Sabbath schools connected with their own congregations. These schools include above 300 young persons. Library^ 4'c, — There is a public subscription library in the town, which was instituted in 1808, principally through the instrumen- tality of the late Dr John Hume. It now contains upwards of HAMILTON. 291 dOOO volumes. For many years it prospered exceedingly ; but since the managers began to be chosen by popular election it has been gradually on the decline. There are several other public libraries, but all of them are on a smaller scale. — A mechanics' institution was established about eight years ago, a good library collected, and lectures delivered regularly once a fortnight on a variety of interesting topics ; but as soon as the novelty of the thing ceased, its supporters gradually dropt away. But the inhabitants of this parish are not singular in preferring that sort of knowledge which costs the least trouble and expense. It has revived again with great spirit. Poor. — The charitable institutions and other provisions made for the poor of this parish are considerable. 1. The Duke's Hospital. This is an old building, with a bel- iry and a bell, at the Cross of Hamilton, which was erected in lieu of one which formerly stood in the Netherton. The pen- sioners used to reside here, but it is now more profitably let out for their behoof. It contributes to the support of 12 old men, at the rate of L. 8, 18s. each per aniium, with a suit of clothes once in two years. It is proposed to increase the number to 15. 2. Aikman's Hospital. This hospital was built and endowed in 1775 by William Aikman, Esq. proprietor of an estate in the parish, and some time merchant in Leghorn. The house stands in Muir Street Four poor men have here, a free house, L.4 per annum, and a suit of clothes every second year. 3. Rae's Mortification. Mr John Rae, and a few other well- disposed people, formerly inhabitants, mortified money to the care of the town-council, the interest of which, L. 9, 2s. 4d., appointed for the relief of poor householders, is mostly paid to the poor yearly. 4. Robertson and Lyon's Mortification. Mr Robertson was a native of Hamilton, and sometime sheriff-clerk of Lanark. It con- tributes L. 4 yearly to nine poor men. 5. Miss Christian Allan, who died in 1785, bequeathed to the care of the kirk-session, for the behoof of the poor, L. 50, the in- terest of which is paid yearly. Besides the above, the kirk-session have, — 1. An orchard at Faimeygair, left some years ago by Mr Wil- liam Torbet, which lets at L. 10 per annuip. 2. A legacy of L. 50, the interest of which is to be divided among five poor female householders named by the kirk-session. 292 LANARKSHIRE. 3. A legacy of L. 50, of which little more than L. 30 was rea- lized, to be expended in clothing the most indigent of the poor. 4. A donation of L. 100, the interest to be applied in educating twelve poor children. The collections at the church door amount per annum to about L.90; average amount of mortcloth dues per annum, L. 30. The average weekly number of persons on the session funds is 14. There are 238 poor people on the parish, supported at the rate of about L. 14 per week, or L. 800 nearly per annum. The allowance to each individual is from 6d. to 2s. 6d. per week. Im- mense numbers of beggars go about seeking alms; and people with passes from Glasgow (often forged) are numerous and trouble- some. Of late, many little children, from six to twelve years oi age, are permitted to beg from door to door. Something ought to be done, for the sake of these poor creatures themselves, to put down this practice ; as it is well known that their parents are often able enough to work, and do work, but take this cheap mode of sup- porting their miserable oflFspring. Prison, — The old prison in Hamilton was built in the reign of Charles I., and, although a handsome building in its day, has now gone much into disrepair. It has been bought up, and will soon all be removed, except the steeple, town clock, and bell As this is the place of confinement for the delinquents of the Middle Ward, it may not be uninteresting to show the number ol debtors and criminals confined here for the last twelve years. Be- sides the following, it ought, however, to be recollected, that manj prisoners from this ward are taken to Glasgow. Year, Criminalt* Debtors, Year. Criminals, Debtors, 1830, 82 46 1831, 84 31 1832, 102 48 1833, 98 54 1834, 61 to 12th July 23 827 475 It would appear that criminals are on the increase and debtors on the decrease. Fairs, — Hamilton in former times was a great mart for lint and wool, and was attended by persons from all parts of the country. At present, however, that trade has taken a different channel, and only a small quantity of lint (and no wool) is now sold here. Our fairs have in consequence dwindled into a mere shadow of what they once were, q^id at present are little better than larger market days. There are five principal fairs m the year. 1823, 45 50 1824, 40 50 1825, 46 32 1826, 50 36 1827, 77 44 1828, 70 31 1829, 69 27 HAMILTON. 293 The absurd practice of keeping up the old and new style is still obflerved in our fairs ; but, fortunately, the terms are now all kept hj the new style. BmSfSfc, — There are two inns in the town which keep post chaises, one that hires out gigs and cars. There are several excellent and f&j respectable secondary inns and taverns for the accommoda- tioD of travellers, &c There are 110 pubUc-houses in the town and parish, in which anient spirits or malt liquors are sold. Miscellaneous Observations. An English traveller who visited Scotland in 1723, thus de- scribes the people : " The common people wear all bonnets, in- stead of hats ; and although some of the townsmen have hats, they wear them only on Sundays, and extraordinary occasions. There is nothing of the gaiety of the English, but a sedate gravity in every &oe, without the stiffness of the Spaniards; and I take this to be owbg to their praying and frequent long graces, which gives their looks a religious cast. Certainly no nation on earth observes the S^th with that strictness of devotion and resignation to the will of God. They all pray in their families before they go to church, ^ between sermons they fast ; after sermon, everybody retires ^ bis own home, and reads some book of devotion till supper, ^bicb is generally very good on Sunday, after which they sing psalms till they go to bed. There is no dinner prepared on the Sabbath, and, in inns, travellers are obliged to put up with bread ^d butter, or a fresh egg, or fast till after the evening sermon, *hen they never fail of a hot supper." According to custom, the eating department forms a considerable item in this English gen tie- r's account. But the fasting here spoken of, and what relates ^ dress, (and, it is to be feared, some other practices,) have long passed away. About the middle of last century, and a good deal later, the prac- ^ce of hard drinking was very common. About the time of the Ame- ^can war, politics and infidelity began to be introduced. Of late a ^^tion has taken place. Infidelity is no longer fashionable, and re- gion is now either warmly embraced, or, if neglected in its essen- ^ duties and requirements, it is uniformly spoken of with respect. Trade has also been equally fluctuating as manners, religion, and Diorals. At one period the malting trade formed no inconsiderable branch of industry in this town. Many memorials of this trade are ^ to be found, and the richest and oldest society in Hamilton is Lanark. u 294 LANARKSHIRE. the Society of Maltsters, although no such employment, as a distinct branch of trade, is now carried on. The linen trade, which at one period supported so many of the town's people, is now also nearly extinct The imitation cotton cambric trade, which in 1792 had 'reached its maximum, has for many years been on the decline ; and it is to be feared that the formidable combinations among the weavers may in time cause the manufacturers either to invent new machinery, or to seek out some other channel for their work. While I now write, about 300 weavers are parading the streets with a web which had been given out by a house in town below the " table prices," which they prescribe to the manufacturer. At the same time, the weaving is paid at a rate which cannot procure for the workman the ordinary comforts, or even the necessaries of life. The lace trade, established here about eight years ago by a house at Nottingham, which sent down a number of English women, who took up schools and taught the tambourers here the art, is now in a thriving state, and is contributing greatly to the happiness and comfort of the community. The building of the addition to Ha- milton Palace, the erection of the new buildings already alluded to, the formation of Duke Street, which has just been completed, and many other improvements which are going forward, have con- tributed in no small degree to the support of a large portion of the community. Upon the whole, since the publication of the former report, this town and parish have increased in inhabitants, in wealth, in domestic comfort, in morals, in manners, "and religion, as may be seen from the foregoing account. July 1835. PARISH OF GLASFORD. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. GAVIN LANG, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish of Glasford is about eight miles in length. Its figure, as laid down in the map, resembles a sand-glass, three miles and three-quarters at its broadest extreme, two miles in the opposite end, and about one-half mile in the GLASFORD. 295 middle. It contains in all eleven square miles, or 5598 Scots acres. It is bounded on the north-west by East Kilbride and Blantyre ; north, by Hamilton ; south, by Avondale ; and east, by Stonehouse. Topographical Appearances, — The parish is separated into two grand divisions, — the moors and the dales ; the latter of which com- prehend a beautiful strath of land, that runs along the lower part of the parish, and is bounded on the one side by the Avon. The aspect of the parish presents In some places a gradual rise, but nothing that can be termed mountainous. The district of the moors is in many parts bleak and barren. Owing to its high po- sition the air is keen, but the climate is considered healthy. The soil may be reckoned of three kinds, moss, clay, and light loam. IL — Civil History. Chief Land'Oumers. — The chief land-owners are the Right Ho- nourable Lady Montgomerie, (Patroness;) George Alston, Esq. of Muirbum ; John Marshall, Esq. of Chapelton ; John Jackson, Esq. of Hallhill ; and William Semple, Esq. of Heads, &c. Antiquities, — Three high stones stand upright on a small emi- nence upon the lands of Avonholm, respecting the origin of which there are various opinions. Some suppose they mark the resting- place of martyrs, and others that they are the tombs of noblemen ; but more probably they are remnants of Druidical superstition. Till within a few years the ruins of an ancient castle were to be seen very near the mansion-house of Hallhill. The late proprietor, John Millar, Esq. caused it to be taken down, when there were found some specimens of beautiful china, unfortunately broken, and a few other relics. It is said to have been a very strong fort, con- toning one spacious arch, under which an hundred men could be drawn up. The building was evidently more intended for defence than for a place of residence.— There is a small enclosure at a place called Shawtonhill, in the western part of the parish, which is appropriated as a burying-ground by a few members of the So- ciety of Friends in Glasgow. It has not been used for a great length of time. The land is burdened with the sum of 12s. 2^d. annually, which is paid by two possessors of the adjoining grounds. They are obliged to preserve the fence, which surrounds a space of nine falls. The ruins of the former church and belfry, built in 1633, are still standing in the grave yard, where also the tomb of a martyr is to be seen inscribed, '^ To the memory of the very worthy Pillar, of the Church, Mr William Gordon of Earlston in 296 LANARKSHIRE. Galloway, shot by a party of dragoons on his way to Bothwell Bridge, 22d June 1679, aged 65 ; inscribed by his great-grand- son, Sir John Gordon, Bart 11th June 1772." Eminent Characters. — Mrs Isabella Graham was born in this parish. Her father, Mr J. Marshall, was a small proprietor at a place called Heads, from which he removed to the Abbey parish of Paisley. The piety and excellence of Mrs Graham require no comment here. A memoir of her was first published at New York, and reprinted in London 1816. In 1766, she left her na- tive country for America with her husband, and spent the greater part of her remaining days in that foreign land. She died on the 27th July 1814. Mansion Houses, — The principal of these are, Muirbum, Cru- therland, Avonholm, Westquarter House, Hallhill, Craigthomhill, and Heads, &c Mills. — There are two upon the Avon, one for oats, &c. and another for flour, erected in 1833. Parochial Registers. — The earliest is dated 1692, when the Rev. Francis Borland was ininister of the parish. They are rather confused from the first, and have not been regularly attended to for the last thirty-seven years.* * The following account of the sufferings of the people in the parish of Glasford for religion and non-conformity to Prelacy, about the year 1 660, appears to have been appointed by the kirk- session of 1694, to be inserted in their records. As exemplifying the persecutions of the time, it is thought not unworthy of being presented here at length. " ImprimiSf Mr William Hamilton, minister in Glasford, who had been ordained minister of this parish about January 1 G44, and continued in the faithful and pa- tient exercise of his ministry here, till aflcr the restoration of King Charles 11., wai in the year 1666 most ii^uriously silenced and thrust out of his charge by the then Bishop of Glasgow ; and when afterwards he was indulged to preach the Gospel at Strathaven in the year 1669, he was there confined within the bounds of that parish. " Item, The parish of Glasford was injuriously fined in the sum of eleven hundred merks Scots, which they were forced to pay, upon the account that the curate's house, Mr Finlay, who was then incumbent of the said parish, was by robbers broken up» about the year 1660, although no person of the said parish was anyways guilty of the fact, being done by strangers, who were afterwards apprehended and executed for the robbery ; at their death confessed the same, declaring that they had not done above two dollars worth of damage to the said Mr Finlay, his house or goods. " Itentf Robert Semple in Craigthorn, William Scmple Whitcraig, William Mar- shall in Four Tennyland, having been at the rising in Pentland Hills, were there either killed, or received their death wounds, in their testifying against the corruption of their times. " Itenif John Hart, in Westquarter, who had been at the engagement at Pentland Hills, afler his return home, was appreliended, carried to Glasgow, and there exe- cuted on the foresaid account. " lUfn, James Scouler and Gavin Semple, having gone toward Hamilton to hear sermon, on the same day on which Bothwell Bridge skirmish fell out, were on their way thither both cruelly killed. <' Jtem, John Semple in Craigthorn, sometime after Bothwell Bridge, in the year 1684, was apprehended and cruelly used by soldiers, then laid up in Hamilton Tol- booth ; afterwards carried to foresaid tolbooth, where he was barbarously handled, his fingers driven into the thummeking, and his legs driven into the bolts, and that GLASFORD. 297 III. — Population In 1755 the population was - 5«!i*9 1792, - - - . 788 1811, - - . . 900 1821, .... 1300 1831, . - - . 1730 The increase is chiefly to be found in the manufacturing part of the community, and may be attributed to the encouragement given to feuing, by the proprietors of land around the village. bothat ooe and the same time, for the space of five hours together, to increase his tor- moits, — afterwards they condemned him to die, passing sentence of death upon him , in the forenoon, and executing him in the afternoon of the same, llie same John Semple of good report, well versed in the Holy Scriptures, by the very quoting of vh^ he even dashed his persecutors. He bore sufferings with much patience. " Itan, K sister of the foresaid John Semple, coming to sec him while he was a pri- soner m Edinburgh, and to put on his dead clothes, the persecutors made her a pri- nper, also first in Edinburgh, then in Donnoter Castle. Likewise the mother of the Siid young woman named Janet Scott, going to see her daughter at Donnoter, she vtt also made a prisoner there ; afterwards they were brought to Leith to be sent over sea to America, but it was so ordered that both were reserved, and sent to Edin- ^Kirgb Tolbooth, where they lay in prison a long time. The whole time of the daugh- ter's imprisonment was about two years and three quarters of a year, and the mother's loprisooinent was near two years. " Item^ Janet Scott suffered much by the troopers coming at several times upon her, ^ quartering, and destroying her corn, grass, and meal, and driving away her "Ones and cattle, which she never after received, the said troopers carrying themselves '^y and barbarously to them in the house. "Item, In 1685, Michael Marshall and John Kay were both taken prisoners for llj'eir non-conformity, and banished and sent over sea to New Jersay in America, ^beaaid Michael Marshall staid several years in America. After the lute happy re- ^Qtion, designing to come home, he was taken ])risoner at sea, and was carried to ^^uce, where he was kept otte year and a-half in prison, and endured great hardships Wore he was delivered. "//rm, About the said year 1685, Alexander Hamilton and John Struthersin Shaw- ^ill, John Semple in Shawtcn, John Fleeming in Chapeltoii, John Walker there, ^ei Scott there, John Fatcrson there, John Semple in Nethcrshields, William °^ple there, Gavin Paterson there, John Marshall, elder and younger, Chapelton, *Bd James Lowrie there, were sorely troubled and harassed by the then Lord Glas- wd, who caused a troop of soldiers to search for and ajiprehend them, upon pretence ^conversing with, resetting and giving entertainment to persoi.s who had been in ''Qis against the established Government, and having been actually in arms them - ^^es; upon which allegencies, the said persons were imprisoned fourteen days in '^burgh, and put to much expense in employing agents to defend them, and al- ^^^oo^h the said Lord Glasford summoned many witnesses to compear against them, J^ could he not get anything proven against them. " /ton. Hie parish of Glasford was much o))pressed in the year before the rising at ^°fbwell Bridge, by the free quartering of a company of the Highland host, and by P^tng besides to each of them sixpence by day, besides hardships and robberies com- ^"^^^ by them upon the people of the said parish, while they quartered them. . "/fero, John Alston in Glasford Mill lay half a year in Glasgow Tolbooth for refus- «J the test. . Item, John Fleeming, Elder, in Chapelton, was imprisoned thirty-four weeks, partly *° Glasgow, partly in Edinburgh, and partly in Burnthallin, for his refusing to take ^''^tat, and had the sentence of banishment passed upon him to America, although pfOvicJentially it was not executed. " item, William Semple in Nethershields was imprisoned in Stirling about three "'^'Jtlw, because of his refusing the test. Jtemi Thomas Fleeming in Chapelton was, upon the account of his non-conformity, ^iid going to the field preaching, much troubled by the Donnoter Ilall-yards, who ^Qsed take an inventory of his goods in order to seize them, whicli cost him about '^pounds Scots before he could get his goods set free, and himsi'lf delivered from the ^^d oppression. As also the said Thomas Fleeming was apprehended by Laird S^ m 298 LANARKSHIRE. Number of bachelors upwards of 50 years of age, - 7 maids upwards of 45 years, - - 9 widowers, ----- 25 widows, ------ 36 Number of births during the last 7 years, at an average each year, - 45 deaths, -..----- 24 marriages, .-----.. 15 Number of houses inhabited, ..---. 269 uninhabited, .-•... 1 building, -------8 The number of families employed in manu&ctures, - - • 123 in agriculture, ... 133 The number of proprietors of land is 50. Of these 17 are non- resident, and 36 stand above L.50 in valuation. A considerable number of females are engaged at the loom, at which they spend usually fourteen hours each working day. For some years past the remuneration has not at all been adequate to their support, but is now much improved. Such a mode of life is not beneficial to the health or morality of females in particular. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — As mentioned at the commencement of this ac- count, the number of Scots acres in the parish is computed to be 5598. Of these 440 are reckoned not arable, being chiefly a deep moss. . It is probable, however, that, in the course of a few years, the greater part of this waste will become cultivated ground, if farming operations continue to improve as they have done of late years. There is but little wood, and that little is planted. Beech, ash, and fir trees prevail. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1, 10s. per acre ; that for grazing a good cow, L. 3 ; sheep, 6s. per head. The breed of cattle is principally Ayrshire. A good deal of attention has been paid to rearing them. Oats are mostly cultivated here. upon the foresaid account, and forced to pay five pounds Scots before be could get out of his hands again. ** Jiem^ Alexander Hamilton in Shawtonhill was taken prisoner by Gavin Muir, Laird of Sachopp and his men, on pretence of having been at a conventicle, and car- ried to Glasgow tol booth, where he lay a month Imprisoned. *' Jtetn, John Alston, Elder, in Glasford, was fined in three dollars, because he did not baptize his child by the curate Mr Davison, which he actually paid. " Item, John Marshall in Heads was imprisoned fourteen days in HamUton tol* booth, because of his wife not hearing the curate Mr Davison. ** Item J Gavin Paterson in Nethershields was fined in three dollars, which he accord- ingly paid, for his wife not hearing the curate. " Item, Ann Semple* spouse to Tliomas Watt in Croutherland, was imprisoned fourteen days in Hamilton, for not hearing the curate. <* Item, Thomas Watt, foresaid, was fined in three dollars, and John Young in Flatt, was fined in two dollars, which they both actually paid, upon the account of their hearing a sermon at the Torrance House, preached by Mr Robert Muir. *< Itenh Adam Fleemingin Shawton was imprisoned in Hamilton tolbooth, for lodg- ing Mr Matthew M'Koll two nights in his house, and was fined in fifty pounds Scots besides. " This account of sufferings within this parish, the session appointed to be insert in their register, adfuluram vos memoriam," GLASFOBD. 299 More wheat, however, was sown during the last than in any pre^ vious year. Potatoes are a prevalent crop. Nineteen years is the general term of leases. Some of these are conditional, which im- plies a liberty of resigning, provided that the parties are not satis- fied at the termination of such years as may be specified. The turn-houses may be considered rather comfortable ; a number of them have been recently built. There are three freestone quar- ries near the village of Westquarter, and one at a place called Flatt, from which most of the buildings are supplied. A large lime-work is in operation in that division of the parish, termed the Moors. Coal has also been found in different parts, but not in abundance. At present there is one colliery going on in the estate of Cruther- land, for the use of the property chiefly. Produce. — The annual produce may be as follows : Potatoes, 40 acres Scots. Turnips, . 10 Hay, . 261 Oats, 320 V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market-town in Glasford. Strathaven is the near- ^t) distant about two and a-half miles. The parish contains three ^^lUages, Westquarter, Chapelton, and Heads. The population of Westquarter is 501 ; of Chapelton, 558 ; of Heads, 6a Means of CommuniccUion. — Letters are conveyed to these vil- %es from the post-town Strathaven, by a runner who goes daily. The turnpike-road leading from Strathaven to Glasgow, by east Kilbride, stretches four miles through the parish; that from Strath- aven to Hamilton, about two and a-half miles. Two stage-coaches nin in opposite directions, both from Strathaven, one by east Kil- bride, and the other by Stonehouse, to which there is easy access. The bridge over the Avon at Glasford mill is very narrow, and not ^ good repair. It is proposed to have it widened. That over the Calder at Crutherland is better. Thorn and beech hedges pre- v^l, Which are now obtaining much more attention than in former years. This is particularly visible in the moorland parts, where en- closures of any kind are few. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, built in 1820, is situ- ^^ in the village of Westquarter, which is almost at one extre- ^Jty of the parish, being distant from the other end six miles. It ^ in good repair, and calculated to contain 560 sitters. The ''■^se was built in 1804. An addition and offices were erected in 1B33, which render it very commodious. The glebe and garden, &c include between eight and nine acres of excellent soil. The 300 LANARKSHIRE. stipend allotted in 1822 is sixteen chalders, half meal and half barley. There is no chapel or meeting-house here; but the num- ber of families attending Dissenting chapels in the neighbouring parishes is 130. Divine service is occasionally performed at Chapelton, three miles from the stated place of worship. The number of communicants amounts to 400. A female society for religious purposes was instituted in January 1835, likewise a paro- chial library for each division. • Education, — At Westquarter is one parochial school, in which are taught besides the common branches, Greek and Latin. The salary is 300 merks, or L. 16, 13s. 4d. with legal accommodation. The schoolmaster's fees amount to L.32 per annum, and his emoluments from other sources to L. 6 per annum. There are two schools at Chapel ton, one of which has a grant of 100 merks, or L. 5, lis. Id. and a school-house assigned to the teacher. Far- ther to the west at Mill-well is another school, to which is at- tached 50 merks or L. 2,'! 5s. 6^d. with a school-house and garden, from the Right Honourable Lady Montgomerie, and L. 3 Sterling from the parish. These schools are so situated as to be accessible to all the different parts of the parish. In 1832 two Sabbath schools were opened, one at Westquarter, the other at Chapel - ton, at which 300 children usually attend ; and besides these there is an adult female Sabbath evening class containing 30 ; which in- stitutions are supported by collections. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers regularly receiving aid in 1832 was about 30, and the average sum calcu- lated to each, L. 5, 10s. yearly. Besides these, others receive as- sistance in various sums. The assessment of the parish for that year was L. 170, 9s. 7d., and the collections at the church door during 1833 were L. 15, 6s. l^d. Charitable Institutions. — At Westquarter, one male Friendly So- ciety, members, 112; one Female do. 23; one Temperance do. 107. At Chapelton, three Friendly Societies, in all 214; one Temperance do. members, 41. These friendly societies are of great benefit not only to the in- dividuals connected with them, but to the heritors of the parish. They are calculated both to promote industry and excite a desire of independence. Inns, 8fc. — There are six houses in Westquarter and Chapelton that retail spirits. The demoralizing effects of these places of re- sort are too evident. Juli/ 1835. PARISH OF AVONDALE OR STRATHAVEN. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR^ THE REV. WILLIAM PROUDFOOT, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parish is not unfrequently named Strathaven or Straven; but Avondale is the proper name. Dale seems to be much more descriptive of the face of the country than Strath. There is a considerable town in the parish named Strathaven ; so that now Strathaven is the name uniformly applied to the town, and Arondale to the parish. I shall speak of the town and parish se- parately. BoundarieSy Extent, ^c. — Avondale is bounded on the north by the parishes of Glasford and Kilbride ; on the west by Loudon andGalston and Som ; on the south by Muirkirk and Lesmahagow ; and on the east by Lesmahagow, Stonehouse, and part of Glasford. h contains nearly 64 square miles, (32,000 acres,) and yields a rental of nearly L. 20,000 a-year. The valued rent is L. 7650 Scots. Topographical Appearances. — Though lying in rather a high dis- trict of the country, yet the lands are generally flat, rising gently from the banks of the river Avon, especially towards the west and south. There are several ridges and small hills in the parish, such as Kype's rigg, Hawkwood hill, Dungivel, and the hills on the Wndaries of Ayrshire. There are also the interesting eminences called the Floors' hills, and the Kirkhill, but these are scarcely entitled to be named hills. None of these heights seem to rise ^ore than 800 or 900 feet above the level of the sea. Climate and Soil. — Upon the whole, the climate may be said to ^ rather moist ; but it is at the same time healthy. The inhabit- ^ts are in general a long-lived race. Many of them at present living are above eighty years of age, and one is above ninety. Per- haps in few places is there a finer race of men than in Avondale. They are tall and stout, and well-formed. There are no particu- lar diseases peculiar to the district. Throughout the greater part 302 LANARKSHIRE. of the parish the soil is light and dry, and susceptible of great ioi- provement, especially in the higher districts. Geology. — The rocks of this parish belong to the coal forma- tion of the secondary class. The common whinstone or trap which is found in great abundance in every part of the parish, exhibits at its junctions with the coal formation many interesting pheno- mena. Clay ironstone abounds. Limestone is very plenty in various districts ; and is wrought at three different places. There is also a sufficient supply of coal for burning the lime in the immediate vicinity of the kilns. But though perfectly fitted for burning the lime, this coal is not accounted sufficiently good for family use. Coal used for family purposes is brought from the works of Quarter, in the parish of Hamilton, and Marlage, in the parish of Dalserf. The distance to each is about five miles ; and 14 cwt can be laid down at Strathaven for 5s. Hydrography. — The Avon is the principal stream in the parish, which it divides nearly into two equal parts. It rises on the con- fines of Ayrshire, and runs nearly east by north. It is a beautiful stream, with gently sloping banks ; but which unfortunately are al- most entirely destitute of wood. Indeed the want of wood is felt throughout the whole parish, especially in the upper district of it. There are several smaller streams which join the Avon in its pro- gress through the parish. There are Cadder and Pomilion on the north ; and Givel, or Geil, Lochar, Lowhere, or Lockart, and Kype, on the south. On this last stream at Spectacle-eye-miln, about a mile to the south of Strathaven, there is a considerable waterfall. The waters of the Kype fall over a precipice of about fifty feet. The scenery in the neighbourhood has been much admired. Trouts abound in all these streams. Salmon used to be found at the very source of the Avon, till some erections were raised lower down the river, which for some years has prevented them from ascending. Report says that arrangements are now making to permit the fish again to ascend ; so that we are in the expectation of being once more vi- sited by this delightful fish. Zoology — Grouse^ Sfc. — Vast quantities of grouse are to be found on the moors in the higher districts of the parish. His Grace the Duke of Hamilton has some thousands of acres in sheep pasture, and kept for grouse shooting. Perhaps few places in the south of Scotland are more favourable for game than the Strathaven moors. Partridges abound in the low lands. Plovers and ducks, &c are to be found everywhere. AVON DALE. 303 Hones and Caws. — The real breed of Clydesdale horses is reared here in considerable numbers. Tradition states, that, at a remote period, one of the Dukes of Hamilton sent a superior breed of horses to Avondale. They were kept in the castle ; and from these and the common mares of the country have sprung the real Lanarkshire or Clydesdale breed of horses. It has been alleged, that of laie this breed has been injured by being too much crossed with lighter horses, intended more for coaches and the saddle. They are, however, still to be found here in great perfection and beauty. The cows kept here are of the Ayrshire kind. They are reared in great numbers. Indeed, it is said that this race of cattle can be obtained here as pure as in most places in Ayrshire. It has been alleged that the Ayrshire farmer, when tempted by a price, will part with the very best of his stock ; while with us, the farmers retam the best, and part with those which are accounted not so va- luable. Strathaven veal has long been held in high estimation. It is rear- ^ here in great quantities, and sent both to Edinburgh and Glas- gow; but chiefly to the Glasgow market In preparing the animals for iDarket, they are kept in a dark place, and fed with great care. The ordinary price of fed veal is from L. 3 to L. 5. But a much higher sum has been o'btained for those particularly large and well fed. Botany. — Hippuris vulgaris (rare) is found in Moss Malloch; Vtriadaria vulgaris^ in Lochgate Loch ; Eriophorum vaginatum^ in the moors ; Sherardia arvensisj in dry corn fields ; Plantago ma- ^moy near Drumclog ; Pamassia palustrisy in wet moors ; Nets-' ^ium terrestrey in the rivulet near the Relief manse ; Ophioglos- *^ vidgatum, in high wet pastures ; Lycopodium selaginoidesj moors Ui several places; Sphagnum cuspictatum^ East Lochgate; Dicranum fi^niomvi, moss east of Hawkwood-hill ; Dryum attenuatum^ near the head of Unthankburn ; Merulius crassipes^ on the roots of de- cayed trees ; Helvetia mitra, Bonnanhill. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — A Roman road can be traced for a considerable Stance in the parish. It runs along the south side of the Avon, *od passes the farm of Walesley. On the farm of Gennerhill some shoes or sandals of Roman manufacture have been found, and also some small coins. A few years ago some coins were also discovered on the lands of Torfoot, near to Loudoun-hill, and on the very line by which the Romans when crossing the Caledonian forest, niust have marched towards the west coast. 304 LANARKSHIRE. Proprietor8.-ln this parish there must be nearly 200 heritors. Con- sequently, property is very much subdivided and broken down. His Grace the Duke of Hamilton is patron of the parish. He is superior of nearly the whole, and proprietor of more than one-fourth of the lands. In Hamilton of Wishaw's account of the Sheriffdom of Lanark, it is stated, that ^^ this baronie of Avendale did anciently belong to the Bairds, and thereafter came to Sinclair, and from them to the Earle of Douglass, with whom it continued several ages; and after his fatall forfaulture in anno 1455, it was given by King James the 3d to Andrew Stewart, whom he created Lord Avendale, and it continued with him and his heirs until 1538 or thereby, that he exchanged it with Sir James Hamilton for the baronie of Ochiltree, in the Parliament 1543, from which time it continued with the successors of Sir James Hamilton until it was acquired by James first of that name. Marquis of Hamilton, and continued with his successors since." There are twelve commis- sioners of supply in the parish. The principal properties are Nether- field, belonging to Miss Young, Overton, Lambhill, Newton, &c Parochial Registers. — The following records are at present in the possession of the kirk-session of Avondale. Minutes of the kirk- session, Vol. i. from 1660 to 1701 ; Vol. ii. from 1734 to 1757; Vol. iii. from 1779 to 1827 ; Vol. iv. from 1827 to 1834. Regis- ters of births. Vol. i. from J 699 to 1785 ; Vol. ii. from 1785 to 1834 Registers of proclamation, Vol. i. from 1723 to 1755; Vol. ii. from 1775 to 1834: A bound book containing a copy of Shawtonhill's mortification : The Acts of the General Assembly, Vol. i. from 1638 to 1649 ; Vol. ii. from 1690 to 1715 ; Vol. iii! 1715 to 1724. Remarkable Occurrences. — The people in this parish suffered much from the " Bloody Claverhouse," who frequently visited this district during the " persecuting times." He never forgot the defeat which he experienced at Drumclog in this parish, on Sab- bath the 1st June 1679. On that day the country people had met for worship in great numbers, many of them armed, and de- termined, if attacked, to defend themselves. Claverhouse rested his men some time in the town of Strathaven, and then marched west about six miles, when he came in sight of the Covenanters at Drumclog, a farm belonging to the Duke of Hamilton, about two miles to the east of Loudoun-hill. The armed part of the con- gregation marched steadily forward to meet him, and chose their situation with much skill. It was at the foot of a gently rising ground, with a small rivulet in front, the banks of which were so AVONDALE. 305 soft that the horses of the dragoons were unable to pass. In en- deaTouring to cross this little stream, the military were exposed to the deadly aim of the country people, who from all accounts be- bafed with uncommon coolness and steadiness. Claverhouse him- self was in imminent danger. He was the first to carry the news of his own defeat to Glasgow. — Auchengelloch in this parish was also fiunous for its conventicles ; but as it is quite inaccessible to caialry, it does not appear that the people ever experienced any intemiptioD. At this latter place, a small stone monument was lately erected, pointing out the place, where the " remnant of the coTeoant," far out in the wild and the waste, met together to hear the glad tidings of salvation proclaimed to them. I grieve to be under the necessity of noticing a " rising" here of a very different description in 1819, — a rising in open re- bellioD against lawful authority, and intended against both the altar and throne. I refer to the attempt of a few deluded persons calling themselves " Radicals" who, with something like weapons in their hands, marched from this place towards Glasgow, under the command of a James Wilson, whose life was soon after forfeited to the outraged laws of his country. It does not appear that Wilson CYer contemplated carrying matters so far as to become an open re- bel against the laws of his country ; but he had infused a spirit into his companions which he was unable to control. This rising was in the utmost degree contemptible, for it comprised no more than thirteen individuals, deluded by a false report that a general rebel- lion had taken place in Glasgow. It has been remarked that none of those who joined in the ludicrous crusade afterwards experienced *Dy thing like prosperity. III. — Population. In 1801 the population was . 3623 1811, . . . . 4353 1821, .... 5030 1831, .... 5761 Popalation of the town in 1831, ..... 3597 Member of fiunilies in the parish, ..... 1246 chiefly employed in agriculture, . . . 3] | in trade, manufactures, or handicraft. 672 The number of weavers in both town and parish may be said to ^ount to nearly 800. Many of the weavers are proprietors of their own houses, and upon the whole are diligent and industrious. There are several extensive dealers in cheese and cattle. In these ^0 departments, there is perhaps more business done in Strathaven 4an in all Lanarkshire, with the exception of the city of Glas- 306 LANARKSHIRE. gow. A branch of the Glasgow Union Bank has been establish- ed here for some time. The inhabitants are a well-informed, reading people. Marriages. — In 1 828 the number of proclamations in order to marriage was 50. In 1829 it was 58; in 1830, 61 ; in 1831, 54; in 1 832, 6 1 ; in 1833, 65 ; and in 1 834, 56. Among the lower classes, large gatherings at weddings are very common. There is unifonn- ly a race for the broose. When the distance from the house of the bridegroom is considerable, the company ride on horseback ; the bridegroom and bride, and as many as can crowd together tra- vel generally in a chaise or coach. The broose^ or contest who shall first reach the house of the bridegroom, is then very keenly maintained by the young men belonging to the different districts of the parish ; and if the parties belong to different parishes, much anxiety is displayed by each party to get before the other, and obtain honour to their parish. Births, — The number of births cannot be accurately stated, as they are not regularly recorded in the parish* register. Burials. — The number of burials here in 1828 was 147. In 1829, 114; in 1830, 114; in 1831, 134; in 1832, 199. (This season we were visited with Asiatic Cholera, of which 50 of our people died.) In 1833, 156; and in 1834, 115. Customs^ Sfc. — Much time is lost, and no small expense unnecessa- rily incurred, by the way in which funerals are conducted in this parish. Great numbers of both men and women usually attend and sit together and receive their "service" together in the bam or place of meeting. Though warned to attend at twelve o'clock, they sel- dom make their appearance till much later, and do not leave the place of meeting with the body before two o'clock ; and having perhaps to travel several miles, the interment is seldom over till towards four o'clock. In general, three " services" are given, two glasses of wine, and one glass of whisky or rum. A practice prevailed at one time very generally here, but which is now begin- ning to wear out, of collecting vast numbers of the friends and neighbours together, to witness the " chesting," or putting the body into the cofiin. The writer of this has witnessed forty persons pre- sent on such an occasion ; after which they generally drink tea, perhaps in the same apartment with the coffined remains of their departed friend ; and, except when some pious influential person is present, it is to be feared that the conversation is not altogether becoming the occasion. AVONDALE. 307 Id both town and parish the inhabitants are hospitable, kind, and obliging. They are also cleanly, sober, and industrious. IV. — Industry. Africuiture. — It has already been stated that the parish contains 32,000 acres : of these rather more than the half have been cul- ^Tated; and about 2000 are in undivided common. Within the last thirty years the rental of the parish has been doubled. Vast quantities of moss and marsh have been reclaim- ed, and are now yielding most abundant crops. The Strath- aven moss, consisting of about 200 acres, and which, little more than half a century ago, was perfectly worthless, is now drained and improved, and is perhaps more productive, than any land in the parish. Some of it is let as high as L. 4 an acre. Through- out the whole parish, the farmers are actively and extensive- ly engaged in fur draining their lands. They in general open a drain in every furrow, which they fill up to a certain depth with stones; and as there is plenty of whinstone in every district of the parish, this process may be carried on to any extent, and to very great advantage. The rental of the parish might be increased to ^ ^ery great amount. This is a pastoral district, and .the dairy produce is what the farmers chiefly depend upon for the payment of their rents. The l^unlop cheese is made here as good as in any part of Scot- land. In many parts of the parish little more land is cultivated than seems necessary for the support of the cattle. The lands, from ooeend of the parish to the other, are very favourable for pasture. There are, however, excellent crops of oats raised everywhere, — hear or big, barley, and on some farms to the east of Strathaven, excellent wheat Great quantities of potatoes are also planted, which are chiefly disposed of to the farmers in the low country for seed. Though the soil be peculiarly adapted for turnips, yet they are not extensively cultivated ; and in a district where so many cattle are reared, and so much food required, it seems not a little strange that this should be the case. Bent of Land. — In the lower parts of the parish, and in the vici- nity of the town of Strathaven, the lands are well cultivated, and very productive. Some of them sold during the war as high as L. 1 40 an acre for cultivation. Even now, L. 100 and L. 105 an acre can be ob- tained for land in the immediate neighbourhood of the town. There, the annual rent of land is about L. 4 an acre ; at a distance from the town, the rent falls much lower. 308 LANARKSHIRE. The gross produce of the parish I am unable to ascertain with accuracy. V. — Parochial Economy. Roads, S^c. — In every part of the parish the roads are excellent and kept in good repair. It is greatly in favour of Avondale that two turnpike roads, the one leading to Ayr, and the other to Muir- kirk, run nearly parallel to one another from the town of Strath- aven to the western extremity of the parish, the one on the north and the other on the south side of the Avon. The other roads kept by the parish statute labour extend to perhaps sixty miles, and cost the parish, including every thing, about L. 300 a year. There are about 30 bridges over the different rivulets in the parish, but in general they are too narrow. The road commissioners em- ploy a clerk, treasurer, and overseer, (who is in general the same person) at the very moderate salary of L. 15 a year. He super- intends all their road operations, and has improved the bridges and lines of communication very much. Toian of Strathaven. — Strat haven was erected into a burgh of barony in 1450. It had an extensive common, which has now all become private property. There is a weekly market, besides a great many annual fairs. It is ruled by a baron bailie, who is appointed by the Duke of Hamilton. For some years past the town has been deprived of this functionary, or if there be a person appointed to that situation, he is non-resident. The population of the parish of Avondale and town of Strathaven may be stated now to be 6000. The population of the town in 1781 was 1444. In 1791 it had increased to 1610, and in 1831 to 3000; and at present it may be rated at 4000. Strathaven lies prettily at the end of a small ridge of eminen- ces on the banks of the little stream of Pomilion, which runs through it, and divides it nearly into two equal parts, and contributes greatlv to its cleanliness and comfort. It has the appearance of being a very old town. The houses in the old part of it are very much crowd- ed together, and the streets are narrow and irregularly built. It is built in the immediate vicinity of the castle, which is now in ruins. No doubt the cause of the narrowness of the streets, and the crowding of the houses so much together, was, that the inha- bitants wished to be under the protection of the castle. Though now in ruins, the castle is still a beautiful feature in our landscape. It is said to have been built by Andrew Stewart, grandson of Murdoch Duke of Albany, and must have been a place of considerable strength. AVONDALE. 309 It stands on a rocky eminence on the banks of the little stream of Pomilion, whose waters flow round the greater part of it In for- mer times it is highly probable that it was entirely surrounded by this stream, and that the approach to it was by a drawbridge.* Of late years, some excellent houses have been built, and new broad streets fonned in the town. A number of neat small villas have been erect- ed by some of the wealthier citizens in the neighbourhood. A few years ago, a number of the inhabitants formed themselves into a company to' supply the town with gas, which seems to be suc- ceeding well. Many of the private houses, and almost all the shops are lighted with gas ; and it is expected that all the streets will soon be lighted in the same manner. Means of CommunicatiorL — There is a post-office here, and a numer to Hamilton every morning at nine o'clock. There is a very ready communication with Edinburgh, Glasgow, Ayr, and Hamilton every day. The improvement in this respect must ap- P^ Tery striking to the old inhabitants. About sixteen years ago, ftere was not even a caravan to Glasgow, and there was no inter- ^urse with either Edinburgh or Glasgow, but by a carrier's cart, ^f 00 horseback, or by sending to Hamilton for a post-chaise. Since that time the road between Edinburgh and Ayr by the Ga- non Bridge has been opened, so that now we have not only coaches *® all these places every day (except Sunday) but also post-horses ^ chaises, gigs, and cars in abundance. Markets, Sfc. — There are excellent markets here of all kinds. Butcher-meat can be got at all times only little (if at all) inferior to ^ of Glasgow. In the town there are three butchers, who deal extensively, and seven bakers, all of whom seem well employed. There is also a brewery. We have a regular market every Thurs- day, which is well attended, and much business done. The coun- try people have a very bad practice of not coming to market till four or five, or perhaps six o'clock in the evening. They seem to think that by this they gain a day's work, but they must in conse- quence be often late in returning to their families. It is strange that though there are here weekly markets, and a great number ot fairs, there are no markets or times fixed for hiring servants, — * It is nid that the late Duchess Anne of Hamilton, commonly known by the oaane of the good Duchess, took refuge here during the usurpation of Cromwell, and never forgot the kindness which she experienced from her tenants and vassals in these S of her diatress. She died in 1716. After this the Castle of Avondalefcll very ra. J into decay. No attention seems to have been i)aid to it ; and it is now fast mouldering away. LANARK. X 310 LANARKSHIRE. which occasions not a little inconvenience both to masters and ser- vants, as they have to travel either to Douglas or Glasgow, and thus incur both much expense and fatigue. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church was erected in 1772, and stands on the west side of the town of Strathaven. It for- merly stood in the church-yard, a little to the east of the castle, one of the most beautiful situations in the place. It says little for the taste of the heritors of formers days, that they permitted it to be moved to its present site. Even when first built, it was far too small for the inhabitants ; and that no attention was paid to the application of the people of Strathaven to have it enlarged, which they offered to do in part at their own expense, evinced a very improper spirit on the part of the heritors. After it was built, it remained unseated for considerably more than twenty years ; and after it was seated, more than one law-suit before the Su- preme Court took place respecting the division of the seats. It is seated to contain about 800 sitters, so that there is here a grievous deficiency of church accommodation. The 4000 in- habitants of the town have a legal title to only 24 sittings in the parish church. About two-thirds of the country population, and a great number in the town, profess to belong to the Esta- blished Church ; but of course there must be among these many who do not attend public worship; and on inquiring the cause of absence, they meet us daily with the unanswerable reply, ^^ we have no seat." In consequence of the deficiency of accommodation in the present church, and the unkind manner in which they had been used by the then heritors, the inhabitants erected the present Re- lief meeting-house, to contain about 900. There is also a place of worship here connected with the United Secession body seated for fully 600. The usual attendance at the first of these places is said to be 1000, and at the latter 350. The parish church is well attended. Many of the country people come from the distance of 6, 7, 8, and some of them nearly 9 miles. Those who are most distant are very seldom absent, and scarcely have I ever heard a complaint seriously made on account of their distance from church. Parochial Visitations. — Ever since the Reformation, the mini- sters of Avondale have been in the habit of visiting and catechis- ing the people every year. That good practice is still kept up. The diets of examination in the country are remarkably well at- tended ; those in the town not so well ; and here also the visits must be less frequent. AVONDALE. 311 The present manse was built about twenty years ago. It is an excellent house, and is in a good state of repair. It was the pri- ?ate property of the former minister. After his death, the house and about six acres of land were bought by the heritors, and an eicambion took place of the old manse, and that part of the glebe which lay on the side of the great road to Ayr near the church, and the present manse and lands adjoining. This transaction was agreeable and beneficial to all parties. It improved the living, and turned out well for the heritors. The glebe consists of about 7 J acres. There does not appear to be any grass glebe. The pre- sent glebe was augmented to its present size by the repeated ex- cambiohs which have taken place. The stipend is fixed at 19 chal- wing to the mills. The people at these works are in general as healthy as their neighbours in other parts of the parish, many of them attaining a peat age. This month, one of the mechanics died aged ninety- four. There is an overseer at present in the service of the com- ply, seventy-seven years of age, who has been employed for- ^y-eight years within the walls of the mill. There are several others between eighty and ninety who still enjoy good health, ^i not a few between seventy and eighty, some of whom are fol- lowing their usual avocations. Many workers are now employed ^ho have been upwards of forty years in the service of the com- * The hours are regulated in terms of the late Factory Act. 324 LANARKSHIRE. pany. As a class, it must be confessed that they are much more healthy than the mill-workers in large towns. In general, the working people marry young, and in all cAses where any degree of care is exercised they live very comfortably. Many o( them have brought up large and respectable families. The village is kept clean and neat ; to insure which, the company provide both watchmen and scavengers. With regard to the habits of the people they may be said to be cleanly. To encourage this desirable ob- ject, the company built a public washing-house several years ago, to which the householders have access in rotation ; and a laige bleaching green on the banks of the river, with a good exposure, capable of accommodating ten times the amount of the population, has also been provided. The village is supplied by means of force pumps at the works, with both soft and hard water. The ordinary food of the workers is much better than that of the agricultural la- bourers in the neighbourhood. A considerable quantity of butcher's meat is consumed every week in the village. There are also seve- ral shops or stores from which the people derive the advantage of competition and low prices. There has been a considerable library established among the workers for several years past, and measures have now been taken for extending it considerably. A funeral society was established fourteen years ago. Among other provisions on the death of a mem- ber or his wife, the heirs receive L. 4, and for a member's child L. 2, to defray funeral expenses. There is also a poors' fund for the sick and destitute, to which the company contribute L. 21 annually. The management is vested in the workers, who elect new mana- gers every six months. The average number obtaining relief is 16. The average sum expended annually is L. 75. An association for religious purposes was instituted in 1822. The average annual amount that has been voted to sundry societies at the yearly gene- ral meetings has been, for the last ten years, upwards of L.20. The Blantyre Works Temperance Society was formed in 1830, since which period it has had at an average from 60 to 70 members. llie population of the village at present is, males, . 743 females, . 1078 Total, . 1821 Belonging to the Established Church, . 1041 Dissenters, . . 592 Episcopalians, . . 39 Roman Catholics, . 149 Any worker known to be guilty of irregularities of moral conduct is instantly discharged, and poaching game or salmon meets with BLANTYRE. 325 the same punishment. The general character of tlie population is moral, and in many instances strictly religious. Fighting or brawls in the village are unknown. It cannot be said they are much given to the discussion of politics, — though several newspa- pers come to the village. Living in one of the " fairy neuks" of creation, religious and moral, well fed and clothed, and not over- wrought, they seem peculiarly happy, as they ought to be. V. — Parochial Economy. The village of Blantyre, where the church and manse stand, is beautifully situated in a rich level country overtopped with tall trees, many of them of great age and beauty. It is 3 miles from Hamil- ten, 4 from Kilbride, 7 from Eaglesham, and 8 miles and 2 fur- longs from Glasgow. There are in the parish about 3 miles of turnpike road, and "SO miles of parish roads, which are always bpt in excellent repair. Ecclesiastical State, — The church was built in 1793, and is in pretty good repair. It affords accommodation for 360 sitters ; but if galleries were erected it could accommodate 200 more. The chapel at^the mills affords accommodation for 400 sitters. The manse was built in 1773, and underwent a thorough repair in 1823. It is now one of the best manses in Scotland. The glebe consists of about twelve acres, four at the manse, and eight acres at Blan- tyre moor. The former is worth L. 2, 10s., and the latter worth Llper acre. The stipend is L. 116, 18s. 7|Jd. in money, 86 bolls, 1 firlot^ 1 peck, l^^,, lippie of meal, and 10 bolls, 3 firlots, Hlippie of barley, including communion elements. The average number of communicants is 420, of whom 144 are heads of fa- fliilies. About L. 10 are usually drawn at the church door at the time of the sacrament, which is distributed in the usual way ^ong the aged and infirm. There is no dissenting chapel in the parish. Exclusive of the population at the Blantyre Works, there are 6 families, including 30 individuals belonging to the Relief, and 2 families, including 7 individuals, belonging to the Roman Catholics. Divine service at the parish church is well at- tended. Lord Blantyre is patron. The average weekly collec- tion at the church door is 9s. Education. — Besides the parish school in the village, in which ^'1 the usual branches of education are taught, there are two En- S"sh schools, one at Auchinraith, and another at Hunthill, and ^ a school for females. The number of scholars attending these ^ools is 123, twenty-five of whom attend the female school. The Unark. y 32G LANARKSHIRE. salary of the schoolmaster is the minimum, being about Lb 26. Amount of parochial schoolmaster's fees per annum is L. 20. All children at the proper age are taught to read, except a few be- longing to the Roman Catholic persuasion at the mills.* Poor and Parochial Funds, — There is no assessment in this pa- rish for the poor. There is at present a fund in the hands of the heritors, minister, and kirk-session, amounting to L. 213, 13s. which is increasing. The foundation of this sum is said to have been donations left to the poor of the parish by benevolent per- sons, who occasionally resorted to this part of the country to enjoy the benefits of the well at Park, There are at present only four persons on the poors' roll. The expenditure for the poor (luring the year from February 1834 to February 1835 was L. 29, 18s. 8d. and the average of five years preceding February 1835 was L. 37, 15s. 4d. The allowance per week is from Is. to 2s. 6d. The people at Blantyre works support their own poor, and never allow them to be chargeable to the parish. Alehouses^ Sfc, — There are 13 alehouses in the parish, one ol which is at Blantyre works. Coal is almost the only fuel burned, and it is generally brought from Hamilton, and laid down at the village of Blantyre, which stands nearly in the centre of the parish, at about 6s. 6d. per ton. The present contract for coals laid down at Blantyre Works is 4s. lid. per ton. Miscellaneous Observations, The changes which have occurred in this parish since the pub- lication of last account are considerable. The population has increased from 1040 to 3000, and the comfort and intelligence ol the people keep pace with their numbers. This must be owing in a great measure to the stimulus given to industry by the great manufacturing establishment of Messrs Monteith and Company. It has been supposed that agriculture is scarcely so far advanced here as in some neighbouring parishes. This may perhaps be at- tributed to the easy tenure by which most of the proprietors no^ hold their lands ; being a very small or nfere nominal feu from Lord Blantyre. On the whole, however, the people of Blantyre have reason to congratulate themselves on the rapid strides the} have already made, and are still making. Juhj 1835. • These children arc now, however, in terms of the late Factory Act, ol»ligod to nt tend the school. PARISH OF CRAWFORD. PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. THOMAS ANDERSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. ^ame. — Crawford is supposed by antiquarians to signify the road or passaffe of blood. This derivation seems natural, from the circumstance of the old Roman road passing through the vil- lage and crossing the river Clyde below it, towards the old Castle of Crawford, which stands on the right bank of the river, — where it K probable many bloody conflicts took place between the invaders ^d the native inhabitants. Part of the parish was formerly known ^1 the name of Douglas Moor, and part of it by that of Friar Moor, but the district or parish is now designated Crawford Muir. It lies 11 the south*east corner of Lanarkshire. There are two farms, in the corner of Lanarkshire, attached to the parish of Moffat, in the county of Dumfries, quod sacrcu Extent, Sfc. — Tlie length of the parish is about 18 miles, and the breadth 14 or 15 miles, but from its irregular figure, it does not ^ntain more than 118 square miles, or about 75,500 acres. It ^ bounded by eleven different parishes : chiefly by Crawfordjohn on the west ; by Sanquhar, Durrisdeer, and Morton, on the south- ''est; by Closeburn, Kirkpatrick-juxta on the south ; by Moffat and Tweedsmuir on the east ; and by Lamington on the north. Topographical appearances. — The range of the mountains is chiefly south-west and north-east ; but the parish may rather be re- sted as a group of mountains or hills, the glens or valleys run- ^ng in every direction. The Louther mountains lie chiefly in *his parish, and they are generally stated to be about 2450 feet ^ve the level of the sea. The acclivity of the hills being in ge- neral gentle, they are for the most part covered with heath or grass, ^Wch affords excellent pasture for sheep. The valleys or flat pounds which separate the hills are partly dry, and partly wet and spungy. Grounds of the last description when improved by drain- ing, as many of them are, produce great quantities of coarse hay, 328 LANARKSHIRE. which proves a seasonable supply, in the time of deep snow, for the sheep. Meteorology. — The only meteorological observations that I have seen, as connected with the parish, are those made by Bailie Mar- tin, at Leadhills, the highest inhabited village in the south of Scot- land, — an abstract of which is here subjoined.* Abstract of Meteorological Observations, from the year 1818 to 1832 inclusive, extracted from the Register kept by Bailie Mar- tin, at Leadhills, Lanarkshire, in latitude 55^ 28^ north ; and longitude 3^ 50', west, at an altitude of 1240 above the sea; distant from Leith 48 miles, and 30 from Dumfries. Mean an- Mean temperature of the seasons. Mean an. Fair days. Yrtorc nual tem- height of a vm 3« perature. Winter. Spring. Summer. Autumn. barometer. 1818, 44 1-2 38 34 1-2 64 1-3 51 28 7-10 201 1819, 42 1-2 29 2-3 37 51 1-6 60 1-8 28 2&-30 196f 1820, 47 2-3 28 6-8 205$ 1821, 43 a-8 37 1-2 1 37 49 1-3 50 1-2 28 6-8 ]80§ 1822, 44 34 4-10, 39 53 4-10 48*7-10 28 6-9 18211 1823, 42 1-8 38 1-9 34 1-3 48 5-6 47 1^ 28 4-11 I70t 1824, 43 7-9 3(5 2-3 ' 38 1-2 52 4-1 1 49 28 7-9 193^ 1825, 43 3-4 32 2-9 37 7-9 52 2-3 52 1-4 28 1-9 200»« 1826, 45 1-G 35 1-6 38 2-3 66 50 2-3 28 2-3 193tt 18-27, 44 1-2 38 2-3 35 7-9 52 1-6 61 2-3 28 1-2 205tt 1828, 45 1-2 38 2-3 39 1-7 52 3-8 51 2-3 28 4.11 208 1829, 42 .53 1-3 35 3-4 51 a-8 47 1-:^ 28 1-2 237 1830, 43 34 38 1-3 50 2-3 48 7-9 28 1-2 163§§ 1821, 44 1-2 36 39 1-6 53 2-:^ 52 1-3 28 1-2 2I5I1II 1832, 43 1-2 36 4-5 38 1-5 | 51 1-3 51 1-12 28 3-5 23615 The winds are generally from west and south-west In spring • Vide early volumes of Blackwood's Magazine and Edinburgh Philosophical Journal for other details illustrative of the climate of the Leadhills. Remarks. f One day in July, thermometer at 78**. December I3th at 13**. Barometer, September *22d and October 3d, 4th, 5th, at 29'* 2'. \ Thermometer, January 1 7th, at 7". November 28th, a shock of an earthquake at 8 A. M. ; a more severe one at half-past 11 r. m. 29th, a slight shock half-past 10 p. M. It was felt by the miners in the mines. The barometer 29** 1'. § May 25, thermometer 28<». On the 26th at 29^ In January 23d, barometer «t 29" 5', and four following days at 29" 4' jl June 9th, thermometer in the sun against a wall stood at 106° at 5 p. m. ^ November 12th to 18th, barometer at 29°. •• July 26th, thermometer 80° at 2 p. u. Barometer, January 4th to 13th, at 29* or above ; on the 10th at 29* 6'. t+ June 26th, thermometer 86° at half-past 2. In the sun, 109° at 6 p. m. In April 27th, at 23°. XX January 3d, thermometer at 7°. §§ April aOth, thermometer at 12° at 4 ▲. m., and so high as 54° at 4 p. m. July dOth, in the sun, 125° II II December .9th, barometer at 27° 3'. December 27th, at 29° T, ^^ August 26th, Aurora Borealis extremely brilliant about 10 p. m., and the noisp distinctlv heard by persons whose veracity cannot be doubted. It resembled the sound of distant waters. CRAWFORD. 329 they are frequently from east and north-east, and are generally cold and dry. The heaviest rains are supposed to fall in the month of September. The old inhabitants state that deep snows are less frequent than in former times. As the parish has in general rather a northern exposure, and the lowest part of it towards the north-west is about 850 feet above the level of the sea, the climate cannot be supposed to be very ge- nial, yet it cannot be said to be unhealthy. Rheumatism seems to be the only prevailing disorder with which the inhabitants are afflicted, — no doubt occasioned by the fogs and damps prevalent at high altitudes. Hydrography. — This parish abounds with springs of the purest water. Two of these send forth mineral waters resembling those of Moffat. They are all on one line, and about eight miles distant from each other ; but the springs in this parish have never been Malyzed. There is a spring on the boundary of the parish which possesses a strong petrifying quality, and all the fog around it is ^ed into stone, from whence beautiful specimens are often taken. There is another spring in the parish at Campshead still stronger. The Clyde is the principal river which takes its rise in this pa- rish; all the others flow into it, except the Evan, which joins the ^nan near Mofiat The source of the Clyde is about 1400 feet above the level of the sea, and upwards of fifty miles from Glasgow, hruns in a small stream till it joins the Daer, a very considerable "ver which takes its rise near the boundary of Closeburn parish. The Clyde receives a number of tributary streams in this parish. " has a north-west direction, with a gentle declivity, and flows over * hroad gravelly bed. It leaves the parish at Abington, when it ^es a north-east direction by Lamington. Geology, — To those interested in the study of the transition "focks of that particular series which forms the greater part of the southern high land of Scotland, this parish affords many facilities, "ere, as in other districts of the mountainous region of southern ^tland, greywacke, with its subordinate formations, predominates. Soil — The soil which chiefly abounds in the parish is the moor soil. ^D the banks of the Clyde the soil is rich. Cultivation is carried ®^ chiefly on the banks of the Clyde, and at the junction of the s^er streams with the Clyde. Within this small space are found Nsof various kinds, gravelly, sandy, loamy, and alluvial. By the "^provements that have taken place, in consequence of the use of "nie, the regular change of early seed, and the cultivation of green 330 LANARKSHIRE. crop, the harvest is now much earlier than in former times, and the crops much more abundant. IL — Civil History. It is supposed that in the charter-chest of the Marquis of Lo- thian, there are a variety of papers which, if examined, might illus- trate the state of the parish before the Reformation. A chapel or church at Crawford was dedicated to Constantino, King of the Scots, about the year 943 ; and the greater part of the parish be- longed at one time to the monastery of Newbattle, and the lesser part to Holyrood. Eminent Men, — The celebrated poet Allan Ramsay was a na- tive of this parish. He was born at Leadhills, and lived there for fifteen years, when he went to Edinburgh, and commenced a cir- culating library. James Taylor, son of one of the overseers of the mines, first suggested to Mr Miller of Dalswinton, the idea of propelling ves- sels by the power of steam, and assisted that gentleman in his ex- periments. He was born here in the year 1757, and died at Cum- nock in 1825. Setting aside the invention of Jonathan Hulls in 1736, which led to no practical use, the above individual has cer- tainly the distinguished honour of first applying steam power to propel vessels on water. The successful experiments were made at Dalswinton in 1788. * William Symington, practical engineer, was likewise a native of this village, and deserves notice from his having been employed by Mr Miller and Mr Taylor in fitting up the steam-engine on board the pleasure boat at Dalswinton, and afterwards suggesting the application of that power to land-carriages. Land-Owners. — The chief land-owners in the parish are, in the order of their valuations, Lord Hopetoun, Henry Colebrooke, Esq. Lord Balgray, Lord Douglas, the Duke of Buccleuch, George Ir- ving, Esq. and Mr John Forsyth ; there are five other smaller land-owners. Parochial Registers, — The earliest date of the parochial regis- ter is 1707. This register has been regularly kept, but is nowm a very bad state. Antiquities. — Although there are no remains of religious houses • For a more particular account of this splendid discovery, reference may be made to a biographical sketch of Mr Taylor in No. 68 of Chambers* Edinburgh Journal ; also a Brief Account of the rise and progress of steam navigation, with an impartial inquiry into the claims of the principal pretenders to the honour of that important discovery, lately printed at Ayr ; and lastly to the newspapers at the period of the discovery. . CRAWFORD. 331 in the parish except the old church, yet it is evident, from various circumstances, that there were at one time many houses or places of worship. One place, in particular, is pointed out as an ancient burying-ground, and lies on the bank of what is called the Chapel Burn. There are two or three apparently old Roman camps in the pa- rish. The one that is most entire, and the largest, is on Boads- berry hill, the property of George Irving, Esq. The other is on the farm called Whitecamp, and lies towards Tweedsmuir. The two great Roman roads by Moffat and Dumfries had their junction io this parish, which, when formed into one great road, passed on towards Lamington. The old Castle of Crawford or Tower Lindsay bears every mark of having been strongly fortified and surrounded by water. There ^ various traditions regarding it, but none of these appear parti- cularly interesting. The farm-houses in ancient times were gene- ^Ily vaulted, and served as small fortifications. This was neces- sary during the times when the Douglas family and Johnstone of Annandale were carrying on their petty wars, and when the bor- derers were committing their ravages. Some years ago an earthen vessel or urn was dug up on the castle farm, which contained somithing like small pieces of bone. This urn is in the possession of Mr James Watson, the present tenant. Mansion-House. — The only new modern building is Newton House. It was built a few years ago by. the late Lord Newton, *Wly on a plan formed by his Lordship, and is both substantial and commodious. III. — Population. It appears that the population of this parish was in former ^inies much greater than at present At the time of Dr Web- ^^r*s Report in 1755, the population was 2009 ; at present it is 1850. The practice, which now so generally prevails in this coun- ^Tfj of uniting many small farms into one, is no doubt the chief ^^**ise of the decrease. There is, perhaps, no parish where this Pi^tice has so generally prevailed as in this; and, indeed, nearly ^"6 half of this extensive parish is in the hands of non-resident ^^ants, — the resident tenants occupying only two or three farms. *" the memory even of the present generation, fifteen families lived *here there is now scarcely the vestige of a ruin. Other parts of ^"^e parish show the same marks of depopulation. 332 LANARKSHIRE. The population is thus distributed : — In the town or village of Crawford, 217 Leadhills, 1188 In the country part of the parish. 445 The average of births, - . - - 59 deaths, - - - - 26 marriages, - - - - 13 persons under 15 years of age, 578 above 70, - - - 23 ITie nuniber of families in the parish is _ - - 4C6 chiefly employed in agriculture, - 59 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, S5 not included under either of these descripl Lions, . 312 All the proprietors of land, to the number of twelve, possess land upwards of the yearly value of L. 50. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — Notwithstanding the extent of the parish, the arable ground is very limited, being not more than 1200 acres. As the parish is chiefly pastoral, it is diflicult to say to what extent improvements might be carried on with advantage to the tenant. A very few hundred acres might perhaps be added to the arable grounds ; but it is the opinion of the judicious farmer, that much improvement might be made by turning up large tracts of rough moorlands, and sowing them with various kinds of grass seeds ; and by adding a portion of lime, according to the nature of the soil. There is no natural wood in H)ephere must be moist and rains frequent : but as we have no P^or undrained marshes, the people are in general healthy, and ^ many instances live to a very advanced age. On the 28th day ^ July 1829, the thermometer at the manse stood at 83"" in the f*^ : and on one day towards the beginning of the same month "* the year 1834, at 82*^. These are the greatest heights observ- ^ hy the writer for the last seven years. On the evening of Ja- **^ the 17th of the present year it stood as low as 10^ Bifdroffraphy. — Towards the southern extremity of the parish^ ^ a spring which has generally been considered to have a petrify- ^ power. The moss by which it is bordered is completely in- uarated, and many beautiful specimens have been preserved, which Ukark. z i 342 LANARKSHIRE. have all the appearance of having undergone a regular process of pe- trifaction. But upon a closer examination, it is found that the moss has by no means been converted into stone, but only been cover- ed over with it, having received a deposition of the incrusting car- bonate of lime. The only stream of any consequence is Culter. water, which, after dividing the parish lengthways nearly into two equal parts, falls into the Clyde, about half a mile beneath the vil- lage. The Clyde itself forms the western boundary for about two miles. At the point where it leaves the parish, the river makes a remarkable bend, changing its course from N. E. to N. W. and this is the first of the many great curves which it makes in its pro- gress to the sea. * Geology. — Sandstone does not occur within our bounds, al- though conglomerate or puddingstone is found in some places* The hills are composed chiefly of greywacke, the common blue whinstone of the peasantry, so prevalent all over Tweeddale. The soil is of great variety, as is generally the case where the surface is very uneven. In the lower grounds it is a sandy loam, not very deep, but dry, and when well managed never fails to yield the hus- bandman an ample return. On the braes and hills it is much lighter ; and towards the eastern or Kilbucho part of the parish it inclines to clay. Moss may be seen on the tops of the highest hills, and in some particular spots of the lower grounds ; but the general character of the soil is that it is hard and dry. Foot-rot among the sheep is altogether unknown, and in few places are they so seldom exposed to diseases of any kind. Botany. — The plants at all worthy of being called uncommon are extremely few. The following, with their several localities, are given as a specimen : Cistus Helianthemum^ found at Cultercraigs and several other places ; Geum urhanurrij growing abundantly in a ditch at Hartree ; Ononis arvensisy seen scantily near Cornhill ; Rubus suberectus and Primula veris^ both found in Culterallers * At Wolf* Clyde, the point above-mentioned, a curiosity may sometimes be seen, viz. the Clyde running into the Tweed. The vale of Biggar-water, which here stretches berween these two rivers, is but sb'ghtly elevated above the bed of the Clyde. During a top-flood, part of the latter river sometimes finds its way into Biggar-water, and is thereby carried into the Tweed, and this happens once perhaps in three or four years. Hence it will be seen that it were a very easy matter to send the Clyde to Berwick instead of Glasgow. Indeed a common tradition is prevalent here that the famous magician Michael Scott had nearly accomplished this. The story is, that he was marching down the vale of the Biggar, with tlie Clyde following at his heels, but that, being alarmed by the sound of the water as it came roaring behind, he looked back, and so the spell was broken, and the vagrant waters returned into their wonted channeL Of course little were the Glasgow folks dreaming of the peril to which their city was exposed. CULTBB. 343 yiooA ; OhfhiM tjfhatieMs BnA Tumlagopetasites^ near Culter water; Saxyragagramilataj near Wolf-Clyde Bridge; Sderanthugannumj top of Crosscroin ; Malva matchaUij road near the village ; and tMuM Chamamorus^ towards the top of the Fell. At Culterallers is the only piece of copse to be found either in the parish or n^ghboorfaood* It consists of several acres, and has the following trees growing in a natural state : The sloe, the birch, the aiders the hazel, the hawkberry or bird-cherry, the rowan or mountain* ash, and many different kinds of the willow. In only one place (Kingsbeck-bum) is the juniper to be seen. Trees that have been planted are of the common kinds, but these are too numerous to be given in detail. Some attain to a very large size. At Nis- bet is a very fine plane of the following dimensions : height of tnrnk 10 feet : girth of trunk at 3 feet from the ground 12^ feet. The branches cover a circle 66 feet in diameter. This is no con- temptible tree, standing, as it does, at an altitude of about 650 feet ftbove the level of the sea. Im Old Maple Tree. — The following description of this tree ^ taken from Sir Thomas D. Lauder^s Edition of Gilpin's Forest Scenery : — ^* A maple at Culter, in Clydesdale, measured in the T^ 1800, at the height of three feet from the ground, was found to be 8 feet in circumference : at the height of three feet it divides into two arms, one of which at two feet above the trunk measures ^ feet round ; the other at the same height above the trunk mea- sures 4 feet 2 inches round." These were its dimensions in 1800, >s taken by Dr Walker, then Professor of Natural History in the University of Edinburgh. Its dimensions in the year 1835 are the following : — At the height of three feet above the ground the cir- cumference is 10 feet ; of the larger arm at two feet above the trunk *ne circumference is 7 feet, 6 inches ; of the lesser arm at the same b^t the circumference is 5 feet The branches cover a circle, the J^naeter of which is 57 feet. This very fine tree stands directly ]u front of the mansion-house of Mr Baillie of Culterallers, and ^ understood to be the largest of the kind in Scotland, with the ^<*ption of one at Roseneath, belonging to the Duke of Argyle. ''om a comparison of the above measurements may be seen wliat "^.been its increase for the last thirty-five years. The tree that holds the predominance in this parish and district * the Scoth fir ; and the result here, as in other places where it b^ been planted in a light soil and very exposed situation is, it ftriyes very well for about twenty or thirty years : it then begins 344 LANARKSHIRE. to decayi and finally dies at a premature old age. This melancboly spectacle is but too common in this parish. Several plantations on the higher grounds and lighter soils are fast dying out, and ere long must totally disappear, — an eyil which might have been avoided if, instead of the fir, had been planted the larch, and the many other kinds of trees which might have been found better suit- ed to the soil. II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — The oldest register bears date 1700. The sederunts of session are recorded continuously from that date down to the present time ; but there is no record of births, bap- tisms, marriages, or deaths, from 1721 to 1737. For this blank no cause can now be assigned. The whole sessional accounts and records are contained in five books or volumes. During the in- cumbency of the Rev. Mr Forrester, ordained in 1700, these do- cuments seem to have been kept with considerable care ; but ge- nerally speaking, afterwards, very little attention has been bestow- ed upon them. Land-owners.* — Besides Mr White, farmer in Shaw, who jointly with another person has lately purchased that farm, the land- owners are the following: David Dickson, Esq. of Hartree and Kilbucho; Robert Granbery Baillie, Esq. of Culterallers; Adam Sim, Esq. of Cultermains; William Bertram, Esq. of Nisbet; Robert Paterson, Esq. of Birthwood, and Robert Bruce Camp- bell, Esq. of Cornhill. With the exception of Mr Bertram, the whole of these reside on their respective properties, and for the most part during the whole year. Eminent men. — Anthony Murray, minister of the parish dur- ing the religious persecutions of Charles II. is mentioned by the historians of these times in terms of the highest commendation. He belonged to the suffering party, and seems to have been a lead- ing man. It appears from Wodrow that he was related to the • The following extract from Chalmers* Caledonia throws some light on the pro- prietorship of the parish in ancient times. ** During the reign of David 1 1, the half of the barony of Cultcr was held by Walter By set of the King in capUe^ and Byset stated that it br.d been so held by his ancestors. In ld67> W^ter Byset granted to William Newbiggin of Dunsyre, all his lands in the barony of Culter, except the lands of Nisbet ; and he also granted the patronage of the church with these lands, to be held by Newbiggin and his son David, of the King. In 1367, Sir Archibald Dou- glas the Lord Galloway obtained, on the resignation of Walter Byset of Clerking- ton, a charter of the lands of Clerkington in Edinburghshire, and the half of the barony of Culter in Lanarkshire. On the J 0th of December 1449, William Earl of DonglM obtained a charter of the half of the land near the parish church of Cul- ter, ana of the advowson of the same church. The right of these was forfeited by his successor James Earl of Douglas in 1465.** 3 CULTER. 345 DocheiB of Laudenhle, and that, on acoouDt of this oonnexioii, he was delegated by the influential ministers of the day to present an address to the Duke in farour of the Nonconfonnbts.* A tradition, which is still prevalent, says, that, after being prohibited from preaching, be continued to reside in the parish, and supported him- self by his medical skill, obsenring facetiously, that Now he would make the doctor keep the minuter. He outlived these troublous times, and died minister of the parish, as is testified by the inscrip- tion on his tombstone in the church-yard. Under this head may be also mentioned the late Dr Jackson, 80 well known by his excellent work on finer^ and numerous other valuable contributions to medical science. He was not a native of Colter, but his father came to the parish whilst he was very young, and here his boyhood was spent. jlntiquUies. — A little way below the village, on the virest side of Culter water, is a place called Chapel-hill, where once stood a house belonging to the Knights- Templars, founded by Walter Bysset, in the reign of David II. At that time the church of Cul- ter belonged to the Abbey of Kelso. A keen dispute having arisen on one occasion between the abbot and the master of the Templars, about tithes alleged to have been due to the Abbey, the latter, in his unwillingness to pay, gave an instance of special pleading, which must appear a curiosity to all who have seen the place to which reference is made. *^ The master and brethren pleaded, that their order enjoyed a general exemption from pay- ing tithes; also that the parish church of Culter, standing on the other side of a great river, on which there was no bridge, was sel- dom accessible to them vrithout great danger.'^f All things seem formidable to an unwilling mind. The great river here spoken of is Culter water, a stream of a few paces in width, and which is not so large, even once in half a dozen of years, that it may not be forded. In the last Statistical Account, mention is made of four cir- cular encampments, popularly called Castles, the Use of which seems to have been to afford temporary security to the inhabitants and ** Sir Da^id Meodes, laird of one half of the barony of Culter in Lanarkshire, gave the whole of his part of the land called Wolfclyde to the convent (of Melrose) in 1431. After the Reformation this land came into the possession of Sir WiUiam Mcn- iiM of Gladstones." MortonU Monastic Jtemaku, p. 276. It is worth remarking that (ha hmds of ViToUclyde, now a part of Hartree estate, pay a few shillings annually to iha Duke of Bucdeuch, in right of the Abbey of Melrose, of which his Grace is Liord of Erectioa. * Wodrow*8 History, Vol. ii. page 349. t Mortonls Monastic Remains of Teviotdale, p. 144. 346 LANARKSHIRE. their cattle in times of civil or predatory warfare. And to these may be added two round mounds or moatsj one at Wolf- Clyde, and one at Bamflat, anciently employed as watch-towers and signal posts. A chain of these artificial mounds can easily be traced all along the vale, running between the Clyde and Tweed, and from these the inhabitants of the one district telegraphed to those of the other, when danger was near. In the midst of a morass, half a mile north-east from the farm of Nisbet, may be seen a very singular remnant of antiquity. A mound of an oval shape, called the Green Knowe, measuring about thirty yards by forty, rises about two or three feet above the sur- face of the surrounding bog. On penetrating into this elevated mass, it is found to consist of stones of all different kinds and sizes, which seem to have been tumbled promiscuously together without the least attempt at arrangement Driven quite through this su- perincumbent mass, are a great number of piles, sharpened at the point, about three feet long, made of oak of the hardest kind, re- taining the marks of the hatchet, and still wonderfully fresh. A causeway of large stones connects this mound with the firm ground. All around, it is nothing but soft elastic moss; and beneath it too, — for on cutting through the bed of stones you immediately meet with moss. No vestige of lime has ever been found near the place. The spot was probably chosen for concealment or protec- tion to man or cattle, perhaps to both. The thick stratum of loose stones would afford firm footing, — the oaken piles driven through the bed of stones would consolidate them, and hold them together like a pavement ; whilst the surrounding marsh would keep off" the aggressor. Near the spot are the remains of some very large trees. Suppose the whole morass to have been a wood, might not the cattle during a sudden foray have been driven into this encamp- ment as a place of concealment ? For who would think of search- ing for them in a moss ? All this, however, is conjecture, and con- jecture for which there will soon be no data. The mound for many years has been used as a quarry ; hundreds of cart loads of stones have been taken from it, and at this date the work of demolition goes on. 1 1 1. — Population. Culter proper being in Lanarkshire, and the part of Kilbucho annexed being in the county of Peebles, the population of each is here given separately. CULTEa. 347 In I75ft» the population of Old Culter wat 432 In 179l» 326 In 1801 369 In 1811, 415 In 1821 467 In 1881 497 Of these 175 were found to live in the village of Culter, and the remaining 322 in the country part of the parish. In 1811, the population of the Kilbucbo part of the pariib was 183 In 1821, 100 In 1881, 171 In CulUr. Noober of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of !iO years of age, 8 women, including widows, upwards o£ 45, - -> 20 Jn the KiUmcho part of the parish, Nmdier of unmarried men bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50, . . women, including widows, upwards of 45, . . 2 h 1831, the population of the united parish was 668. The average number of births yearly for the last seven years, according to the public register, is 9^ ; but many are not registered. The average number of deaths for the same period is 5^ ; and of mar- nages 5. The average number of children in a family is 4, if ^ take account only of those families where children actually re- ^de; but if we include all the families in the parish the average number of each family is 3. There is one fatuous person and one "Hud; and seYen proprietors of land whose respective properties ^oeed the yearly sum of L. 50. Character of the People. — The people are of sober and indus- trious habits, respectful to their superiors, and kind and obliging in ^heir intercourse with each other. With few exceptions, they are '^^gular in their attendance on jaublic worship, and the other ordi- ^ces of religion ; and a thoroughly profligate or reckless person '^ not to be found among them. No lover of his country, however, <^ fail to deplore the growing prevalence of an evil which was ^mparatively unknown to our forefathers, the unlawful intercourse of the sexes, especially among the poorer and more dependent classes of the community. There were four illegitimate births in the (>arish during the last three years. The writer would by no means insinuate that this vice is peculiarly prevalent here. But it does pre- vail in this parish in common with the other parishes of the bounds, and it is to be feared of Scotland generally : And it is an evil omen of the times, and threatens ere long to bring down the common people of Scotland from that high station of respectability and moral worth which they have occupied so long, and which perhaps never has been attained by the people of any other nation. The Christian .philan- thropist hopes that true religion may be on the increase ; but the 348 LANARKSHIRE. hope is damped by the consideration, that ^^ the Wisdom which cometh down from above is first pureJ^ IV. — Industry. The tables under this head are again given separately, in order that it may be seen what portion of the parish lies in Lanarkshire, and what in the county of Peebles. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — Old Culter contains 9950 imperial acres, of which there are either cultivated or occa- sionally in tillage, . , 2671 Of lands which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly in pasture there are .....•• 6871 Acres in a state of undivided common, ..... q Acres planted are, ...... 408 The Kiltmcho part of the parish contains 1597 imperial acres. Of these there are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, . • . . 1319 Of lands which never have been cultivated and which remain constantly in pas- ture, there are 251 Acres in a state of undivided common are • Acres planted are, 9...«87 In the united parish, there are still perhaps from 100 to 200 acres which might be profitably brought under the plough* Rent ofljandj Wages^ Sfc. — There is great diversity in the qua- lity, and consequently in the rent of arable land. Whilst some of the better sort might be let as high as L. 4 or perhaps L. 5 per acre, a still greater proportion would scarcely bring 15s. ; but the average may be given at L. 1, 3s. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 3 per cow or full-grown ox ; L. 2 per head of young cattle ; and 5s. 6d. per ewe or full-grown sheep. Wages are the same as in the neighbouring parishes. Breeds of Cattle. — The sheep with which our hills are pastured are of the short or black-faced kind. No other kind has ever been tried, as the grounds are reckoned too hard and bare for rearing a finer species. They are all regularly smeared with tar and oil at the approach of winter. The horses are mostly of the Clydesdale, and the cows of the Ayrshire breed. Upon this latter kind of stock a very great improvement has been made of late years. Till very lately the cows in this district were neither of the Teeswater, Ayrshire, nor of any regular and approved breed, but a mixture of all the different kinds ; but now a fine animal is known and appre- ciated, and consequently the inferior kinds are rapidly disappearing. This amelioration of stock we owe in a great measure to a Farmer's Society instituted in Biggar, which has an annual competition, at which stock of all the different kinds is exhibited, and prizes duly awarded. Husbandry. — Whilst our farmers have been improving their CULTEB. 349 lifB stock, they hanre not been stationary in the improvement of their lands. Their brms are managed pretty much on the com- moD rotation plan, viz. first oats, then green crop, then barley, then bty, and lastly pasture, which last is allowed to continue for one, two or more years, according to the quality of the land. Lime, iriiick is driven from a distance of seven miles, is plentifully applied, and on new land yields a rich return. It seems to be generally agreed, however, that, when repeatedly applied to the same field, its effiset is greatly diminished, and the farmer sees more and more the necessity of resting his land. Big or bear is fast disappearing, and bsrley coming in its place. Till the last two or three years, there lasnot a field of wheat in the parish, but now there is scarcely any bnn, however small, where it is not to be seen. Draining in all its diffiwent branches is duly attended to. The sheep-walks have been dried with sur&oe-drains, and much wet land reclaimed and reodered arable by those of the ordinary kind. The late Mr Sim of Cdtermains, erected an embankment along the Clyde nearly l^mile in length, which cost upwards of L. 1000; and calculated tint lie had, on that part of his property which he retained in his od of man, or domestic ani- mak, including the straw, - . L. 2894 12 8^ ^poCMoes, turnips, cabbages, and other plants cultivated in the fieWsforfijod. . - - - . 558 vfhty, whctlMT meadow or cultivated, - - 341 10 1177 1032 3 4 2829 8 80 ^ 119 350 LANARKSHIRE. Of land in pasture, rating it at L. 3 per cow or full grown ox ; L. 2 per head of young cattle ; and ?& per ewe or full-grown sheep, in- cluding the fleece, - - - - 709 9 Of one garden, . . .... . . 80 Miscellaneous produce not enumerated under any of the foregoing heads, 47 Total yearly value of raw produce raised in the Kilbucho part of parish, ....... L* 4575 11 84 The gross annual produce of the united parish, therefore, is L. 15,049, 18s. 5^ ; and the gross rental, as nearly as can be com- puted, is L. 5210. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — Biggar is the market-town and the post-town of the district The two parishes are contiguous, and the village of Culter is distant from the town of Biggar nearly three miles.* Village. — There is but one village, and, as has been already stair ed, it contains only 175 persons. It is pleasantly situated close upon Culter water. The houses are scattered along the stream, in- terspersed with fine old trees, neatly built, and in many instances adorned with honeysuckle, and flowering shrubs. It has its mill, its smithy, and small grocer's shop, and altogether presents a very pleasing aspect to the passenger. The turnpike road from Dum- fries to Edinburgh lies through its centre by an excellent bridge, built a few years ago. Means of Communication. — The Dumfries road now mentioned is carried through the parish for the space of nearly four miles ; and the parish roads are kept in good repair. Where there are hills the roads must often be uneven, and such is the case here ; but no pains are spared to render them smooth and dry. The parish roads are about ten miles long. Ecclesiastical State.f — The church, which was built in 1810, and contains 350 sitters, is situated conveniently enough for the bulk of the people.J Within it is sufficiently commodious, but the exterior is plain and tasteless, which is the more to be regret- ted, as the beautiful site and splendid trees amid which it stands, would have done ample justice to a handsomer building. The • Culter is distant from Edinburgh 30 miles, from Glasgow 36, from Lanark 1 1, and from Peebles 17. + Chalmers in his " Caledonia'* says, that " Richard, the parson of Culter, witnes- sed a charter of Hugh de Biger on the 14th of February 1228-9, and he appears as parson of Culter before that time. In 1296, Mestre de Tillol, the parson of Culter, swore fealty to Edward I. Thomas de Ballasky was rector of the church of Culter in 1388. George Shoreswood was one of the King's clerks, and rector of Culter in the reign of James II." And we learn from the same authority, that " at the Kefor* mation this benefice was held by Mr Archibald Livingston, who reported in 1562 that the revenues of the parsonage and vicarage of Culter were leased by him for 160 merks yearly." $ None of the seats are paid for, but none are common, they being divided among the heritors according to their respective valuations. CULTER. 351 miDse was buOt in 1774^ and is still in a state of ?ery good re- piir. It has an orchard in front, and a steep hill coyered with lood to the top, behind, and is the very beau ideal of a quiet par- noage. The glebe consists of 8 or 8]^ acres of excellent land ; it vdl enclosed all around, and might be let for about L. 25. The stipend is L. 208 in money, with twelve bolls, three firlots of oat- meal, and the interest of L. 282, 12s. lodged in the Royal Bank of Scotland. This latter sum is the half of the price obtained for Kilbucho glebe when that parish was suppressed. By order of the Court of Session it must lie in the bank till it can be invested in hud contiguous to the glebe of Culter. In the meantime the in- wrest forms an item in the living. The families presently in con- nection with the Establishment are 1(H); the average numberof com- nnmicants yearly is 290, and the average number of young persons admitted to the communion for the first time is 12. The dissent- ing fiunilies are 23, partly connected with the Relief, and partly with the United Secession church. There is neither chapel nor dissenting meeting-house of any kind. The Dissenters attend their req)ective places of worship in. Biggar, to which, indeed, a great proportion of this parish are nearer than to their own parish church. CoUecticms have been made in the church from time to time, in sui^rt of the Infirmary of Edinburgh, the Assembly's Schools, Kbleahd Missionary Societies, and for other charitable and religious purposes, the amount of which may be estimated at L. 5 yearly. Education, — The parochial school is the only one for general education. On it, however, the Kilbucho part of the parish is no- ^js dependent. It has still a school of its own : for the legal man- date that swept away the church spared the school.* In the school of Culter are taught Greek, Latin, practical mathematics, and geography, besides the more ordinary branches of education. The Cher's salary is L. 34, 4s. with a small garden ; and as the quar- ter fees bring about L. 20, his income, exclusive of the dwelling- noose, is rather more than L. 54. No part of the parish is so dis- ^t as to prevent the attendance of the young, and there is not ^ individual upwards of six or seven years of age who is unable te read. It may also be mentioned, that a Sabbath school is con- ducted by the writer of this article and the schoolmaster, which is *^nded by an average number of scholars of about thirty-five. Con- At the election of the present schoolmaster of Kilbucho the minister of Brough- ^ olgeeted to the vote of the minister of Culter. A long dispute ensued, but the jitter being ultioiatclv referred to the arbitration of Sir James Mongomery, Bart. ^9ne a deoiuoD in fitTOur of the minister of Culter, awarding to each of thQ two '^luitsten an eiitial vote in the election of schoolmaster for Kilbuchoi 352 LANARKSHIRE. nected with the Sabbath school is a small library but lately begun; and this is the only one in the place ; but the want is in some measure supplied by the vicinity of Biggar, where there are several very good libraries, and where books of all kinds may easily be found. Poor and Parochial Funds. — At present, there are five regular paupers on the roll. Of these two are very old women ; two wi- dows with families, and one an old man with a family. They re- ceive on an average Ln 4, lOs. a-year, a sum which would be in- adequate for their support were they totally incapacitated for la- bour ; but all of them can do something for themselves. — Besides these, there are several others who receive occasional help from the session, in the form of house-rents, coals, and small donations of money. To meet this outlay, there are the church collections, which average for the last seven years L. 32 a-year, with L. 4, 4s. of yearly interest upon L. 105, the only lying fund belonging to the poor. Hitherto these sources have yielded a suflScient sup- ply without either assessments or extraordinary collections of any kind. But how long this state of things may continue is uncer- tain, as the reluctance to receive assistance from the public fund, though slowly, is perceptibly on the decrease. Bequests for the Education of the Poor. — The session have under their management the following sums, the interest of which goes to the education of poor children. 1. L. 18^ understood to have been mortified by the Rev. Anthony Murray, previously mention- ed. 2. L. 40 mortified by William Nisbet^ saltman in Biggar, who died in 1820. 3. L. 100 mortified by the late David Sim, Esq. of Cultermams, who died at London in 1834. This latter bequest is for ^^ the education and clothing of a boy or girl in the parish of Culter, of poor and industrious parents." Inns, — We have no public-house nor inn of any kind. The heritors, seeing that nothing of the kind is needed, do not allow any to be kept, by which wise resolution, whilst they do no injury to the community at large, they lay this parish under very great ob- ligations. FtbeL — Almost the only fuel used is coal, driven from Douglas, a distance of eleven miles, and costing 7s. 6d. per cart of four loads, each load consisting of about three cwt. Miscellaneous Observations. It appears from the last Statistical Account, that this parish was in a forward state as far back as 1793. The writer of that account tells us, that in the lowland part of the parish <^ the ground was mostly either well enclosed with hedge and ditch, or covered with CULTER. 353 thriving plantations ;" that << many thousand trees had also been {^ted in different parts of the parish within the last seven or eight jeus f that *' the proprietors seemed to vie with each other in im- provements;^ and that '^ enclosed land was let at an average of bom L 1, 10s. to Ifc 2 per acre." The improvements thus early begun have been going on steadily and progressively ever since, as win appear when we have mentioned some of the more remarkable dttfigesthatbavetakenplacewithintheperiodnowreferred to. Since 1791 the population has been increased by an addition of 171 ; the lental has been nearly trebled ; a new church has been built ; a new sdiool and sdiool-house, and a new bridge over Culter water. Snee tben^ an elegant mansion-house has been erected by Mr OunpbeU of ComhilL The wooden ploughs which were then in use kme almost totally disappeared, and their place been supplied by othersmadeof iron. The labourof hoeinghasbeengreatlyabridged I7 the mtroduetioo of the drill harrow, an implement then alto- gether unknown. The church collections have risen from L. 8 to L82 annuaUy; farm-houses and cottages have been either re- hnk or undergone a sufficient repair ; and agriculture in all its bniDches is much better understood and more successfully prac- tiied. Plantations also have been greatly extended, and are still extending ; and, vrith some exceptions referred to under a former ar- ticle, are healthy and thriving. For many of these improvements, the parish is indebted to the late John Dickson, Esq. of Hartree, the principal landed proprietor within its bounds. He first introduced many of the most approved modes of husbandry into this district, ^ a time when the art was but little understood ; and gave an im- pulse to a spirit for planting at a time when trees were indeed '^ few Md far between." Mr Dickson, having survived what Dr John- ^^ calls The frightful interval between the seed and the timber, ^ in May last at a very advanced age. The heritors, who are ^^^ in number, are all resident with but one exception. The advantages resulting from such a state of society must be obvious 1^ sny one. Money is plentifully circulated ; regular employment ^pven to tradesmen and labourers of every kind ; the church col- '^ions are large, whilst the number needing parochial aid is com- paratively small ; courtesy and good breeding are diffused on every *Qe; the richer and poorer classes are brought into frequent and ''^tiinate intercourse with each other ; and that kindly bond of con- ^'^rioii is formed between landlord and tenant, which constitutes ^ oooe the happiness and strength of the country. <% 1835. PARISH OF BIGGAR. PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TW£EDDAL£. THE REV. JOHN CHRISTISON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History* Name and Boundaries. — In ancient charters, the name is gene* rally written Biger and sometimes Bigre. Its origin is very doubt* ful, but probably, as Chalmers thinks, from the Scoto-Irish words big^ tkir, pronounced bipWy and signifying soft land. This de- scription does not apply to the parish generally, nor even to the land immediately around the town ; but the old castle of the family of Biggar stood in the middle of a morass, and this circumstance, which has evidently given rise to its own name 2?o^hall, may be thought to justify the derivation now given of the name of the parish. Biggaris a border parish of Lanarkshire, on the south-east, where it marches with the county of Peebles. It is bounded on the south by Culter and Kilbucho ; on the east by Skirling ; on the n orth by Dolphinton and Walston ; and on the west by Libberton. Its length from the south-west, where it is washed for about 800 yards by the Clyde, to its north-eastern extremity, is 6^ miles. It approaches the form of a triangle, and contains 11^ square miles, or 5852 Scots acres. Topographical Appearances. — There is a good deal of level land in the parish, but generally speaking it is hilly. The hills are of moderate elevation, sometimes half forming themselves into ridges, but in general pretty much detached. Their near equality in point of height, their gentle acclivities, round backs, and surfaces unbrok- en by natural wood, rock, or torrent, preclude all picturesque ef- fect, but they present nevertheless a very pleasing aspect. To- wards the south, they subside into a plain of considerable extent. This plain, which is the lowest land in the parish, is about 628 feet above the level of the sea. The town^ which stands on a gentle elevation between it and the hills, is 695 feet, the ridge of heights north-west of the town, 1260, and Bizzyberry, on the north-east, 1150. I Gimate. — From the elevated situation oftlie parish, we have ne- cessanlj a keen atmosphere and severe winters, yet from the dry- Dess of the soil, and from our being equally out of range of the eastern kaars and western rains, the climate of this parish is neither udampnorcold as that of many lower situations. Cold easterly winds 1dow in spring, but the prevailing wind during the remainder of the ;e« is the south-west, which acquires great force as it passes through tbeiale of Clyde, sometimes sweeping this parish with untempered nolence. The parish of Biggar used to suSer so much from autum- nal frosts that the grain produced on some of the low-lying farms could not be used as seed above once in four or five years. Since 1617, these frosts have almost entirely disappeared. One undoubt- ed cause of this is the extensive draining of the low lands, which has taken place since that time. The following tables have been constructed from a book of daily obeerrations on the weather kept by Mr Alexander Watt^ late te- UDt in Biggar mill. The hour of observation was nine o'clock in dttereDitig, the place 665 feet above the level of the sea, Longi- tude »> 26' W., Latitude 55° 37' N. Monthly Mean Temperature. IBK «•.« 33°.5B 37°.32 4f.aj U5°.90 SO".. ■ "a38.l642.4e(3.005I 6^36 .03 38 .aoL» .35 64 .031 . .eO|34 .71 38 .90 41 .00 43 .80 SO .M\51 : .4^ rS .^J^S7 .3^ 40 .93 47 .04 ' .4H 33 .£0|33 .06|4I .53146 .93 . 54 .7(1 31 .39 M..tP|43.I( Monthly Mean Height of the Barometer. I Wb(,'. [ A'./.. I (Jrt- 29.!)l,30.ril)2tl.lCi2&.8J 31.2730.11 »).23a0.3( S0.03 30.0! .10.32 20.31 rw ■I'JAK ■m m\ ■i'.ni .'!).7' "iifi ■m.h; jSU''' iO.HIi *'^*'' water rises on the north side of the pa- "■ti and when about two miles on its course passes the town of oiggar, or rather divides it ; for though the bulk of the town lies at * little distance from the left bank, a large suburb has within the "*t forty years sprung up on the right. To the traveller who en- ^n Biggar by the Carnwath road, this suburb presents a scene '''Qdedly picturesque, — houses perched on the brow of the steep , Wk, others standing lower down on the declivity, ^sloping gardens •^W, the opposite bank crowned with lofty old trees, and Biggar 356 LANARKSHIRE. water winding most circuitously along the bosom of the little val- ley. On issuing from the town, Biggar water enters a fine open vde, which includes the southern frontier of the parish, and extends to the Clyde on the one hand, and the Tweed on the other. It enters this vale about a mile and a-half from the Clyde, and after receiving a small tributary which connects it with that river, par- sues its way to the Tweed. As the Clyde in high floods sends a portion of its waters by this channel to the Tweed, Bi^pur water may be said to unite these two great rivers. Indeed, the waters of the one might all be conveyed without any great difficulty to the other. The length of the vale which extends between them is 7 miles, and its descent 25 feet. Biggar water, from its rise to its junction with the Tweed a little below Drummelzier, runs a course of 9 miles. The only other stream worth mentioning is Candy- burn, which rises in the north-east comer of the parish, divides it for the space of 3 miles from Peebles-shire, and then (alls into Biggar water. The parish is well supplied with springs, but none of them deserve particular notice. Mineralogy. — There are neither coal, limestone, nor freestone in the parish, the predominating rocks being varieties of the secondary trap and porphyry series of Jameson, (whinstone of the peasantry .^) Of these Plutonian masses the following may be mentioned: green* stone, amygdaloid, and porphyry. They are very untractable in the hands of the mason, but when once built form an excellent wall. Some fine pebbles and moss-a^tes are occasionally found in the amygdaloid rock, but are confined to the south-west quarter of the parish. Soils. — There are probably about 1000 acres of clayey soil, which are very open, and rest on an open substratum of clay or gravel. That of which there is the greatest quantity in the parish, and which prevails particularly on the higher grounds, is a light black- ish soil, incumbent on rotten whin. The epithet deaf is often ap- plied in the district to this kind of soil, and it seems much im- proved by the stimulus of lime. There are probably about 2000 acres of this ; after which, there are pretty equal proportions of sand, gravel, sandy loam, blackish loam, inclined to moss, and peat moss. The whole arable land of the parish is well adapted to turnip hus- bandry, and capable of being very easily drained where required. Botany. — There is little interesting under this head. We have no natural woods, deep ravines, or any of those localities so much prized by the botanist, who will here feel but little tempted to BIQGAR. 357 \ >** Steal along the lonely dale, In silent search, or clhnb the mountain rock, Fir*d by the nodding verdure of its brow." The following are the only plants not common everywhere) which have been observed in the parish : — Anchusa sempervirensf EpUobium angustifolium^ Ononis arvensis, Sambucus EbtduSf J%z- wmeuhu Ficaria, Scunfraga granulata^ Genista anglica^ ScrophU" laria ffemalis, and Veronica scuteUata. Somenamesof places, such as Carwood and Bizzyherry or Btuhy^ berry (hiU) would seem to indicate that woods had formerly exist- ed which have long since disappeared. Considerable remains of aider, oak, and birch, have also been dug out of the mosses, and in mauy places hazel-nuts have been discovered several feet below the surface. But whatever may have been the case formerly, the soil seems but little congenial now to the growth of natural wood. The lover of Scottish scenery will look in vain for the hazel copse, or sloe-thom thicket, or even for a patch of the trailing bramble. The only underwood is furze, broom, and in one or two places the wild rasp. This want of natural wood is in some measure com- poDsated by plantations, of which there are about 750 acres. An ^^neous notion once prevailed that the soil was best adapted to uie Scotch fir, and the consequence is, that by far too great a pro- portion of the parish bristles with plantations of that unlovely tree. A glance at the large and thriving hard wood trees at every farm steading ought to have corrected this prejudice long ago ; but it is Dow happily on the wane. In all the recent plantations, there is ^ due mixture of hard wood, which seems to make the same pro- pess, in comparison with the resinous trees, as in other parts of the country. The ash and elm are the decided favourites of the ^d> and next to these the beech and plane. The larch in gravel- ly soils and exposed situations becomes corky in the heart, and •^Is into premature decay. A method of pruning trees has originated in this parish, which ^6ll deserves public attention. MV Gavin Cree, nursery-man in %gar, the author of this improvement, has explained it at length •n the third volume of the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture. His plan is to apply the pruning-knife the third or fourth year after a ^'^ has been planted; but all that is done for some years is short- ening the lateral branches, and carefully suppressing all rivalry 'i^ith the main stem. When the tree has attained the height of fif- teen feet, it is subjected for the first time to close pruning. Tlie lowest tier of branches is cut off the first year, another tier the se- LANARK. A a 358 LANAUKSHIHE. cond, and so on, care being taken that not more than a single tier, and that always the lowest, be removed in any one season. This annual pruning goes on till about three-fifths of the whole height of the tree are cleared of branches, when the process is complete. It has been found that this method of pruning has the following advantages over that in common use : It brings the tree to a great- er height in a given time, enabling it, the author avers, to keep pace with the fastest-growing resinous trees. It causes it to make more timber in the trunk, instead of dissipating its strength among useless branches. It is so gradual a process that it does not en- feeble the growth of the tree, but enables it to cicatrize its wounds, and thus make finer wood. And finally, it enables it to afford more shelter, from the numerous branchlets and leaves thrown out by the lateral pruning. * Zoology. — Of quadrupeds, the hedgehog, rabbit, polecat, squir- rel, and weasel are common. The ermine is rather scarce. The badger and otter are seen, but very rarely. The following birds are common : — the sparrow-hawk, merlin, long-eared, brown, and barn owl, wild and teal duck, woodlark, fieldfare, goldfinch, bull- finch, gray, green, and rose linnet, redpole, common titmouse, gold-crested wren, lapwing, curlew, heron, common bunting, stone- chat, stank hen, black and red grouse, pheasant, woodcock. The black-cock has become abundant of late years. The water-crow is in small numbers. The starling used to be scarce, but has built for the last two years on the tower of the church. The king- fisher, redstart, goat-sucker, snow-flight, long-tailed titmouse, and coot are scarce. The quail has been seen, but not for many years. A bittern was shot five years ago on Biggar moss, but none have appeared since. The raven is occasionally seen passing to his haunts on Tinto. The moss^cheepcr, mufiiJi, and whitewing are three birds so called in this parish, which cannot be identified with any of acknowledged names. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices. — The battle of Biggar is celebrated by Blind Harry, but not mentioned by any other historian. It is said to have taken place between the English under Edward I. and the Scots under Wallace, and to have ended in a great victory over the invaders. Appearances still exist, and traditions float among * I'or notices and commendations of Mr Crce's system of pruning, sec Quarterly Journal of Agriculture, Vol. iii. p. 308; Sir Henry Stewart's Tlanters' Guide, seooi.d edition ; and particularly Professor I-k)w's Elements of Agriculture p. 388. BIGGAR. 359. tbe people of the district, which leave little doubt of the engage- ment. Blind Harry says it was fought on marshy ground, and tradition points to a low-lying field south-east from Biggar, where pieces of broken armour have often been gathered. The remains of a camp are also to be seen at no great distance. The English are said to have approached the field by Cors-Cryne, and the Scots from their encampment on Tinto. Wallace, it is told, some time before the battle, gained admission to the enemy's camp, dis- guised as a cadger offering to sell provisions. By this means, he ascertained their strength and position, but had no sooner depart- ed than suspicion rose, and he was instantly pursued. On reach- iagf a bridge over Biggar water, at the west end of the town, he turned on his pursuers, and putting the foremost to death made good his escape. There is still a foot bridge over the stream to the '^est of Biggar, which has been called from time immemorial " the ^f^dger^s brig." On the north side of Bizzyberry, are a hollow '^k and a spring called Wallace's seat and Wallace's well. Biggar was probably the rendezvous of the Scots army, which 'Wider Sir Simon Frazer achieved the victory at Roslin in 1302. It is at least certain that the army marched from Biggar to Ros- fin during the night previous to the battle. When Edward II. invaded Scotland in 1310, penetrating ^'irough Selkirk to Renfrew, he spent the first six days of October ^n Biggar. When the Scots army, after Cromwell's victory in Fife in 1651, niarched to England by Biggar, Leslie, according to Whitelock, ** summoned Bigger, andthe governour returned a resolute an- ^er, that he kept it for the commonwealth of England." The place thus summoned must have been Boghall Castle, which was • ^n 1651 garrisoned by the English. As Cromwell followed the ^t of the Scots army, he would probably halt some time at Biggar. In 1715, Lockhart, younger of Carnwath, raised a troop in this neighbourhood for the service of the Pretender, which after ren- dezvousing some time at Biggar, went to Dumfries, and joined Lord Kenmure. Familt/ of Fleming. — The manor of Biggar was given by David I. to Baldwin, a Flemish leader, whose descendants, though locally designed of Biggar, retain to this day the original surname of Flem- ing. Baldwin was Sherifi^of Lanark in the reign of Malcolm IV. and it has been supposed that this office became for some time he- reditary in his family. The Flemings of Biggar appear to have ,■■" ,lm e'er the more cele- cond, and so • ^^ '•^7 ,nd 1 1 60, Baldwin de and that ah , ,>"tV'J' ,te lands on Douglas «ater annual pr. ,. ' ^t^^/Sr"'"" O""*'*^ '''°"''" 1" otthotr, - •^^S'^TcoantyofWigtonintoaneari- It ha. 1 iS*i*olm Fleming, a cadet of the fa- ad.anl ., ^>*5, fell by inheriunce into the mam " "' '-. ^ .''S^nir^d in'lM7, certain lands v„.h,n pace p'^>'';^in1(382, that "h* >«""''.«06 S! "° f<'i^-4it"Stl:trea^n't^^^^^^^ .*• "Sjd his father as Lord Elph.nston. >n 1757. In ~ l^-^ entail made in 1741, those estates went to her «- ^-^IZ he Honourable Charles Elphinstone Flemmg^^' jg«nd»n, Cumbemaold, and of a small ^"'jHTrf BiS" ¥he rest ot the latter property .- Irtioii of mat 01 "'BB ^ ^ se, aside hy :r;,Sr„:T^^t^X4^.AH:eh^h„dsnperi.r,.y "tS.r^r:;^Tbe«.ere„^f;;.;-ro:S ,ki, head was the foundation ot a chaplainry m the pansn B^r, under the following unhappy """"T" on the li^^ F,.„^ng, Chamberlain of Scotland, went . '■•"'""e " th» ' Ncembor 1524, when he was attacked and ""'■»»? "."i,, ^ Tweedie of Drimimelzler, James Tweedie, h» son, and «>" complices. After a delay of some years, this affair was »» ,j 10 arbiters, who decreed that a certain assythment m uno . be given to Malcolm Lord Fleming, the son ot the "'"'"'r V ^ In obedience to another part ot the decreet, Tweedie, tne f pala^iassin, on the 10th Angusl 1531, S«- by the holding of property, with this parish. 366 LANARKSHIRE. the proprietors, by whom it is either cultivated or let annual- ly as grass parks. There are only twenty-two farms of con- siderable size in the hands of tenants, any others being small possessions let to persons who have some other employment be- sides farming. The size of farms is an important feature in the agriculture of a district. The following table will shew their extent in this parish, as well as the average rent of land. 4 Fanns. Scots acres, Rent, ster. L J 200 140 170300 ld5| 80 40 6 7660 60a)d0 142 140 140 40 U 166 60 47 60 ii 90 90 12 6*2 100 la 178 IJO 14 •>7 S3 15 IdO 10 180 123200 17 8-2 120 18 19 >791753712a 2ia 1 551601 20121 22 195 6530( Produce. — The following is the gross amount of raw produce raised every year as nearly as it can be ascertained : Acre*. . 1018 oats, at 54 bolls \yer acre, equal 5509 bolls at 16s. per boll, 147 barley, at 9 bolls per acre, equal 1323 bolls at 21s. per boll, 203 rye-grass hay, at 125 stones per acre, equal 25375 stones at 6d. per stone, -.---- 52 meadow-hay, at 1 80 stones per acre, equal 9360 stones at 3d. f)6 jiease, at 3^ bolls per acre, equal 126 bolls at 15s. per l)oll, \li wheat, at 9 bolls per acre, equal 135 bolls, at 24s per Ijoll, 18 naked fallow. ...... 184 turnip, at L. 4, lOs. per acre, ... 1 50 potatoes, at 30 bolk per acre, equal 4500 bolls at 5s. per boll, 16 tares, at L. 4, 10s. per acre, .... 750 wofxi, the annual thinnings of which may amount to 3232 pasture, the gross produce of which may amount to 15s. per acre. Produce of gardens, .... L.4470 1389 UGH 117 94 162 828 11*25 7-2 30 2424 40 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, - L. 1 2,028 V. — Parochial Economy. Toton. — In 1451 James XL erected Biggarinto a free burgh of barony " with all privileges, and particularly a weekly market on Thursday." New erections of it were made in 1526, 1588, 1634, and 1662. Biggar is the seat of a Presbytery, and of the Court of Justices, who meet four times a-year. It consists of one very wide street, stands on rising ground, enjoys a fine southern exposure, and miffht be a pretty little town if common sewers were provided to drain away the nuisance which at present stagnates on the street. In 1831 it contained 1454 inhabitants. It contains at present among others 210 weavers, 28 shoemakers, 26 masons, 20 tailors, 14 join- ers, 4 miU-wrights, 2 wheel-wrights, 2 coopers, 8 blacksmiths, 8 nailers, 2 tinsmiths, 4 watchmakers, 20 carters, 6 sawyers, 1 um- brella-maker, 1 painter, 1 plasterer, 2 slaters, 5 saddlers, 7 ped- lars, 1 veterinary surgeon, 1 nurseryman, 1 brewer, 16 spirit-deal- ers, 5 of whom are innkeepers and the rest grocers, 9 bakers, 3 butchers, 8 cloth-merchants. There are four surgeons. Some idea may be formed of the retail trade of Biggar by the following quantities of excisable articles sold during the year ending 5th July BIGGAR. 367 1835 : 2608 gallons British spirits, 80 gallons brandy, 136 gal- lons ginger wine and other shrubs, 88 dozen foreign wine, 2528 lbs. tea, 1876 lbs. tobacco and snuff. Biggar has increased in population, and improved very much in appearance of late years. Four very handsome houses have been built in it this summer, and only one of them on the site of an old one. There are 95 pro- prietors of houses, and the rental of the whole houses, as estimated for the laying on of the poors' rate, is L. 1350. Mcansof Communication. — There is a post-office in Biggar. The TCYenue arising from letters delivered has averaged L. 231, 10s. 3d. for the last four years, while for the four preceding years it only averaged L. 163, 3s. 8d. A coach from Edinburgh to Dumfries passes through the town every alternate day, and one from Glas- gow to Peebles daily during summer and autumn. The Edinburgh and Dumfries mail also passes daily within four miles of the town. There are three weekly carriers to Edinburgh, and one to Glas- gow. Carriers from Hawick to Glasgow, and from Dumfries and Sanquhar to Edinburgh, pass through Biggar once a-week, as also one from Wigton to Edinburgh once a fortnight The turnpike road from Dumfries to Edinburgh by Thornhill, Linton, and Morn- ingside, intersects this parish nearly at its greatest length, while another turnpike branches off from it about the middle of the pa- ^lij and joins the Dumfries road to Edinburgh by Moffat, Noble- "ouse, and Libberton. The whole length of turnpike within the parish is seven miles. During last year L.1500 have been spent ^^ rendering it more level. — There are fourteen miles of parish J^ds, which are kept in excellent repair. The expense of kecp- *^g them up has averaged for the last three years L. 39, 13s. 3d. a year. A new road from Biggar to Broughton is very much needed. Inis would not only be a great convenience to the district, but were '^continued round Dreva, Craig-end, and close by the Tweed, to the ^fown ford, as has often been projected, the Glasgow and Peebles ^d might then abandon the rugged hilly tract by EUsrighill, and ^fsincon, and travelling down the banks of Biggar water and the l^eed reach Peebles by a route as short and infinitely more le- ^^1 and agreeable than the present, — The road from Biggar to ^^niwath stands much in need of improvement. It ought to be diverted so as to avoid the long ascents on both sides of Garwood burn, — an object which might be accomplished by embanking it over ^he hollow of the burn above the present ford, where two steep banks approaching each other, and narrowing the intervening space, iflvite the operation. 368 LANARKSHIRE. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, though now 290 years old, is in very good repair. In 1834 it received an addition to the accommodation of 120 sittings, by the erection of a gallery, and was at the same time new-seated. A division of the area also took place last year, under direction of the Sheriflf, when it was appor- tioned among the landward heritors according to their valued rent The communion table affords 44 sittings, which are free. In a certain sense, indeed, all the seats are free, none of them being let for money, though in a few instances some small services, such as shearing in harvest, &c. may be rendered by the occupants to the proprietors. The church is conveniently situate, as there are not more than four or five families who are above three miles from it. Divine service is well attended. The average number of commu- nicants is 400. The manse, which was built in 1805, and received an addition in 1827, is a very good house. The glebe contains 10 acres, which may be worth L. 30. The stipend is 17 chalders, half oatmeal and half barley, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The average amount of stipend for the last three years is L.239, 7s. 4i%d. A congregation of Burghers was formed in this parish in 1760, and still exists. Their chapel contains 450 sittings, 360 of which are let They give their minister L. 180 per annum. There ij- also a Relief congregation, which was formed in 1780. Their cha- pel contains 700 sittings, 320 of which are let. They pay their minister L. 110 per annum. The members of these congrega- tions are collected from fifteen different parishes. Of the 404 fa- milies which this parish contained in 1831, 118 belonged to the Relief congregation, 48 to the Burghers, and 236 to the Church. Of the two remaining families one was Roman Catholic and the other Cameronian. Religious Societies. — A Bible Society was formed here in 1810, since which time it has paid away L. 950. It used to be auxi- liary to the British and Foreign Bible Society, but withdrew from that body five years ago, and is now auxiliary to the Edinburgli Bible Society. It consists indiscriminately of Churchmen and Dissenters ; but there is also a Bible and Missionary Society, con- sisting exclusively of Dissenters. Edtication. — There is only one parochial school, which is verj ably conducted by Mr John Gray. The branches taught are. Englishjwriting, arithmetic, geography, Latin, Greek, French, and mathematics. The average number of children attending the schoo! is 170. The number at present is 180, of whom 12 are learning La- DIGGAR. 3G9 tin, 6 Greek, and 8 French. Tlie fees are, for English, 2s. 6d. per quarter: English and writing, »3s., English, writing, and arithmetic, 3s. 6A, Latin, Greek, or French, 6s., forany two of these languages, 86., and for all the three, 10s. The probable amount of school fees is L 80 per annum. The salary is the maximum. The house affords more than 'the legal accommodation, but there is a defici- encyofgardenground,forwhich an allowance isgivenof L. 1, 14s. dd. Mr Gray keeps an assistant at his own expense, to whom he pays Lb24 per annum. In 1767, William Law, skinner, Biggar, mor- tffied L41 Sterling, and in 1817, William Nisbet, saltman, Big- gar, mortified L. 40 Sterling, the interest of both sums to be ap- plied in educating poor children. In 1828, L. 20 were raised by subscription, and expended in founding a library for the use of the P^ish schools. An annual sermon has since been preached in be- b^f of its funds, and a small contribution is occasionally made to them by the scholars. The library now contains 250 volumes, ^me children who live near the east end of the parish are too' ^niote from Biggar to be able to attend the school, but they are ]*^thin easy distance of Skirling, or of a side school at Ellsrighill, ^^ the parish of Walston. There is an unendowed school in Big- S^i attended by about 50 scholars, and at which the ordinary hunches are taught. literature. — A public library was instituted here in 1797, ano- ^•^er in 1800, and a third in 1807. Tlie first contains 735 vo- "'^es, the second 503, and the third, which consists exclusively of "^^'Jgious works, 680 volumes. Their aggregate number of sub- f^^'^bers is 148, and their yearly income L. 20, 6s. A public read- ^S^room was attempted in 1828, but failed after languishing a year. ^M'spapers are extensively read. Forty-five numbers of different *^glish and Scotch papers circulate through the parish weekly. -^oor and Parochial Funds, — The poor of this parish were sup- P^^'ted from 1730 to 1746 by church collections, and niort cloth ^^s, by the rent of a house and small piece of land belonging to ^^ kirk-session, by the interest of L. 250 Sterling, which had ac- ^^^ulated in their hands, and by a legal assessment of L. 100 "-^ots, on the whole valued rent of the parish. From 1746 to 1760, *^^Te is no record of transactions regarding the poor. From 1760 ^^ 1802, they were supported as during the former period, only ^here was no assessment ; and the house and land were sold in 1774, ^^d the proceeds gradually expended in aid of the other funds. *Q 1802, the assessment was resumed, and has continued ever since. In 1802, also, the principal sum of L. 250, already mention- 370 LANARKSHIRE. ed, was encroached on, and by 1815 exhausted. Previous to 1828, the assessment was laid upon land only, according to the valued rent, but since that time, houses as well as land have been as- sessed, the real rent of both being taken as the rule, and a de- duction of one-fourth being allowed, in estimating the rent of houses, for the expense of repairs. Pauperism has certainly increased here of late years. This has arisen in some measure from the depres- sed state of the weaving trade, but still more, it is to be feared, from the decay of the old independent spirit. During the year ending in February 1835 there have been raised for the mainte- nance of the poor. By assessraent at the rate of 64cl on the rent of the whole lands and houses widiin the parish, - - - - - . L. 15^ 11 P Kirk collections, - - - - - . I2]8]|9 fiell and mortclotb dues» - . - - - 689<^ Sale of the eflSscts of deceased paupers, •»- - - - 2 19 10 Total receipt for the year ending in February 1835, - - L. 175 18 87 Expetiditure, 35 Enrolled poor,» - - . - - - L. 145 11 Occasional do. - - - - - - 12 II 8 Vagrant ditto, belonging to other parishes. • - - 114 Fees to collector and treasurer of assessment, Synod and Presbytery clerks, and presbytery and church officers, - - - 9 2 6 New rc^tration book and incidental expenses, - . . 17 3 Total disbursements for year ending in February ]835i - L. 169 3 9 * It may be worth while to subjoin the following tabular view of the state of the enrolled poor of tlie parish, for the year ending as above. It may furnish the means of comparison with the scale of parochial relief in other parishes. The relations bound to support are all grown up, unless where otlierwise mentioned. Ground of claim, other means ofaup' Monthly aU ^ portfire Nation* bound in law to support, "^ Males. 79. Infirm, wife so too, lodges vagrants, 3 sons and 2 daughters, - J 85. Infirm, cannot work any, a son, 2 daugh- ters, and a grandson, 86. Bed-rid, lodges vagrants, 1 daughter, 66. Disabled by accident, can work none, 1 son and 2 daughters, 55. Wants a leg, worlu a little, 1 son and 2 daughters, 78k Infirm, can work none, 1 son & daughter, 35. Disabled by accident/ unable to work, 40. An idiot, ... 42. Diseased, has 2s. 6d. a week from a so- ciety, 5 children, all young. Females. 50. Infirm, has an annuity of L. 1, 85. Infirm, can work none, 35. Weak in mind, works a little, 65. Infirm, works a little, 1 son & 2 daughters, 63. Do. lodges vagrants, 67. Do. works a little, 3 sons, 57. Diseased & bed-rid, cannot work, 4 sons, 70. Infirm, works very little, 1 daughter, lowance in Money, Pent and Coals, Total/or rear. 5 L,l L.4 6 6 1 1 17 1 5 9 4 18 4 1 1 3 9 5 5 10 1 6 8 1 2 4 5 6 16 2 2 2 5 5 4 5 5 6 5 6 2 6 16 1 1 12 1 1 4 5 6 2 10 4 10 4 1 4 1 5 4 4 1 BIGGAK. 371 Friendly Societies. — There are four of these in the parish. tst. institut 1 786, pres. stock L.GGO, memb. 220, 1 si weekly allowance 5s ; 2d. do 3s. f>d. 2d. 1787, 250, 1 14, for 12 weeks, 4s., for rest of year, lia. Si 1806, 1074, 28fl, 6s.. 3s. 4tli. 1806, 176, 111, 4s, 3s. Of the 7^ members of these societies, only 323 belong to this parish. Inns and Alehouses. — There are five inns in the parish, and ten grocers who are licensed to sell spirits. The effect of such a number of public houses is in every respect pernicious.* Banks, — A branch of the Commercial Bank was established here in 1833, and is understood to be flourishing. A handsome building is at present in course of erection for its accommodation. A savings bank was instituted in July 1832. The depositors con- sist chiefly of farm-servants. Their number at this date (August 1835) is 200, and the amount of deposits L. 116a Fairs, — There are three fairs held in Biggar, the Candlemas fair, the Midsummer fair, and the old Biggar fair, held on the last Thursday of October, old style. The first is a hiring market, and very well attended. At the second, a little business is done in wool. The third is for horses and black cattle. B^ Infirm, can work none, 2 sons & 4 daughters. 50 0120 3120 92. Do. do. Idaughter&lson, 090 112 700 02. In bad health, works stockings a little, 040 1160 440 ^ A widow with 3 young children, . 000 110 110 55. Occasionally deranged, . 050 170 470 55. Do. works a little, 050 110 410 ^5. Infirni,worksaHttle,l son & 5 daughters, 036 000 220 68. Do. . . . 040 I 16 440 57. Do. sews a little, - - 026 000 llOO o2. Rather infirm, - - 000 200 200 eO. A lunatic, - - - 17 000 10 40 55. Infirm, lives with a daughter, 1 son, 026 000 1100 ^ Do. works a little, - 030 110 2170 60. Do. sells brooms, 1 daughter, - 030 15 2110 Families. A brother and sister, the brother of weak intellect, the sister an idiot, - 10 200 800 An orphan boy and girl under 14, - 084 000.500 L. 145 11 It would be quite enough for the public convenience here, and in most places of the same site, if the license were granted only to persons who keep stables and other vcommodations for travellers. At any rate, the grocers should be restricted from allowing the i^irits they sell to be consumed on their premises. As it is at present, ^rfdiops are often infested with loiterers in aU stages of drunkenness, — an exhibition of the worst influence on young persons, and others who may have occasion to go there. Another bad practice is the licensing of toll-keepers. Often shifting about, |hey are lesa interested in maintaining a good character than the more stationary in- habitants ; and in order to make the most of their short leases, and to eke out a high 'rat, perhaps they are often tempted to encourage excess. In many places, however, ^ percent of additional rent is given for a toll-bar that is licensed, and while this is . f^* ^^ ^"^ ^ very dlfiicult to get the practice abolished. Candidates for ale and ^tnt licenses are generally required to produce a certificate of character from the mi- nister of the parish in which they reside, but in one instance in this dbtrict, where the ^^nisterial certificate was withheld from a toll-keeper on account of bad character, no ^xplanation of the circumstance was ever required from the minister, and yet the toll- ■*eper found no difllculty in getting his license. 378 LANARKSHIRE. Fueh — Almost the only fuel used is coal from Ponfeigh, in the parish of Douglas, which is about 14 miles distant from Biggar, and sometimes, though more rarely, from Wilsonton, in the parish of Carnwath. A cart-load of 15 cwt. is delivered in Biggar for 9s., that is ds. 3d. for the coals at the mouth of the pit, lOd. for tolls, and the remainder for driving. Peats, or rather turfs, called rouffh'headsj are dug from a moss belonging to the town, and used as fuel to the extent of about 400 carts yearly, but they are not reckoned profitable. Miscellaneous Observations. Few parishes have been more improved than this since the date of the last Statistical Account ; but there are two periods in the history of its improvement which ought particularly to be noted. In 1806 the late Mr Stainton bought Biggarshields, containing 1132 Scots acres, and then all let as a sheep-walk for L. 150. This lease expired in 1817, and during the years 1817, 1818, 1819, and 1820, he reclaimed 600 aores, drained extensively, erect- ed 18 miles of stone dikes, planted 15 miles of thorn hedges, and forest trees to the extent of 265 acres. The rental of the pro- perty is now above L. 600, but two of the farm^ consisting wholly of land not formerly reclaimed, are let on improving leases for trifling rents, and in the course of ten years, when these leases shall have expired, the whole of the estate, with the exception of 100 acres too steep for cultivation, will be under the plough, and the rental not less probably than L. 900. In 1830 Mr Gmy bought Garwood, containing 947 Scots acres, since which time he has reclaimed 400, formed fifty inclosures by stone dikes, thorn hedges, and turf fences, and planted in stripes and clumps 210 acres. He has, besides this, built an excellent mansion-house, and is engaged in improvements which will soon treble the rental of his property. The greatest improvement which can now be effected in this parish is the deepening of Biggar water. Were it deepened two feet for the space of four miles, that is, from Broughton Bridge to Boghall, 500 acres of land on its banks, but not all in this parish, would be improved L. 1 per acre. And as the operation would not, in the opinion of com|)etent judges, cost more than L. 500, the expense would be repaid in the course of one year. Tliere are ten proprietors concerned, and it can only be ascribed to the difficulty of acting in concert that such an improvement is delayed for a day. The advantage which would result to the climate from the draining of such a tract of marshy ground would be very great Augtist 1835. 9 PARISH OF RUTHERGLEN.* PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. PETER BROWN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. The royal burgh and parish of Rutherglen is situated in the lOWirmtd of the county of Lanark. It stands on the south bank ofibemer Clyde, latitude 55° 51' S^ north, and longitude 4° 17' 84' west. Name and Boundaries^ S^c. — The name of Rutherglen, or by con- traction Ruglen, is said to be derived from King Reuiher or £eu- t/imiff, the fifth in the genealogy of the Kings of Scotland from Fergus L This King, according to the Scottish historians, was the son of Domadilla, whose memory is still preserved in the name of Dun-Domadilla, a venerable ruin in Strathmore. From Reuther or Reuda, as Bede calls him, the Scots were for a loDg time called Ddlreudini, He began to reign about the year 213 B.C. Having experienced the various changes of a war, by which his army was greatly exhausted, he retired to the mountainous county of Afgyle, where he remained in peace for several years. Finding at leDgth that his forces, now greatly increased, were inflamed with the love of war, he left his retirement, and by many successful attacks upon the Britoiis, regained the ancient boundaries of his kingdom. It appears from Wright's Inquiry into the Rise and Progress of Parlia- ments, that Rutherglen was erected into a royal burgh in 1 126 by King David, and from the numerous subsequent royal charters narrat- ed ia lire's History, it is evident that Rutherglen was originally a placeof great note; indeed, it seems probable, that, fora considerable time after its erection into a royal burgh, it was superior to Glasgow as a place of trade, the latter being chiefly occupied by churchmen.f Its consequence, however, as a place of trade, has long been on the * This article has been drawn up by James Cleland, LL.D. President of the Glas- |ov ud Clydesdale Sutistical Society, Fellow of the Statistical Society of London, *«fflberof the Society of CItiI Engineers, London, Corresponding Member of the **«y of Antiquaries of Scotland, &c. &c. . t Itvould appear that the bishops burgh of Glasgow had been comprehended with- >nthe origiiua boundaries of the royal burgh of Rutherglen, and that in the year UMARK. B b 374 LANARKSHIRE. decline. In 1692, as is elsewhere shown, it had neither foreign nor home trade, while Glasgow had a part of both. It is remarkable that two places so similarly situated, both on the banks of the Clyde, and within two miles of each other, should, in the process of time, become so very diflferent. In 1831, the population of Rutherglen was only 5503, while that of Glasgow had increased to 202,426. At that period the former had no shipping, — whereas, the latter bad ships trading to all parts of the world, besides sixty-seven steam ves- sels of nearly 10,000 tons burthen, carpenter's measurement In the early part of its history, the town of Rutherglen contained a castle which appears to have been a place of great strength, and ranked among the ancient fortresses of Scotland* In 1306, when Edward King of England was appointed arbiter in the dispute be- tween Bruce and Baliol, respecting the succession to the throne of Scotland, the castle of Rutherglen fell into his hands. Bruce, sen- sible of the great importance of this fortress, besieged it, and this coming to the knowledge of Edward, he sent his nephew, the young Earl of Glocester, to raise the siege. After various con- flicts, this castle seems to have been taken from the English in the year 1313 by Bruce. The castle, which stood near the east end of the back row, was kept in good repair till a short time after the battle of Langside, when it was burned by order of the Regent, out of revenge on the noble house of Hamilton, in whose custody it then was. The prin- cipal towers, however, were soon repaired, and, being enlarged by some modern improvements, became the seat of the Hamiltons of Elistoun, lairds of Shawfield, &c At length, on the decline of that family, it was more than a century ago left to fall into ruins, and by frequent dilapidations was levelled to the ground. The walls of this ancient tower were very thick. Each corner rested upon a foundation stone 5 feet in length, and 4 feet in breadth and thickness. These comer stones being very massy, were allowed to remain till about seventy years ago, when they were quarried out, as being cumbersome to a kitchen garden, into which the site of the fortress of Rutherglen is now converted. Some carved stones be- longing to the castle are built in the adjoining dikes. About 150 yards to the south of the main street, there is a kind of lane known by the name of Dins-Dikes. A circumstance which be- 1226i Alexander II. granted a charter to Walter Bishop of Glas^^ow, relieTiDg bis town from certain servitudes formerly due to Rutherglen. — Municipal CorporstioD Report, 1885, Part II. p. 871. RUTHERQLEN. 375 fell the unfortunate Queen Mary, immediately after her forces were ranted at the battle of Langside, has ever since continued to cha- ra^^terize this place with an indelible mark of opprobrium. Her Ma- jesty during the battle stood on a rising ground about a mile and a*lialf from Rutherglen. She no sooner saw her army defeated than ske took her precipitate flight to the south. Dins-Dikes unfortu- nately lay in her way. Two rustics who were at that instant cutting grass hard by, seeing her Majesty fleeing in haste, rudely attempt- ed to intercept and threatened to cut her in pieces with their scythes if she presumed to proceed a step farther. Neither beauty nor even royalty itself can at all times secure the unfortunate when they ha^e to do with the unfeeling or the revengeful. Relief, however, was at hand^ and her Majesty proceeded in her flight The parish of Rutherglen, of which the burgh forms a part, ex^tends on the south bank of the river Clyde, about 3 miles in length, and 1 mile 2 furlongs in breadth. Clyde is the bound- ary on the north ; the parish of Govan on the west ; Cathcart on the south-west ; Carmunnock on the south ; and Cambuslang on the east. The whole is arable, and is mostly enclosed, chiefly with thorn hedges. It lies in a pleasant situation, forming the lower patrt of the declivity of Cathkin hills, and is beautifully diversified ^th a regular succession of hills and narrow dales, excepting the parts next the river, where it forms into some very fertile plains. There is nothing on record by which we can precisely ascertain what was anciently the extent of Rutherglen, or the number of houses it contained. When digging at the east end of the town, the foundations of buildings are sometimes met with in places which *ere never known to have been occupied by houses. One princi- pal street, in a direction nearly east and west, and a parallel lane ^led the Back Row, constitute the greatest part of the town. The main street, which is very straight and well paved, is nearly half a-mile in length, and is in general 112 feet broad. From both «des of it go off a few lanes, as the Farm Lone, School Wynd, &c. The plains next the river comprehend the estates of Shawfield, ^*nne, Hamilton Farme, and Rosebank. Shawfield extends about * iJiile in length from the town of Rutherglen to Polmadie, having the Clyde for its boundary on the north. Sir Claud Hamilton was "^rtof Shawfield in 1615. This property was adjudged to Mr ''^hn Ellis, and other creditors of the family, about the year 1657, ^i in 1695 it was conveyed by the said John Ellis to Sir Alexan- ^r Anstruther of Newwark, who sold it in 1707 to Mr Daniel 376 LANARKSHIRE. Campbell, collector of his Majesty's customs at Port- Glasgow, whose descendant, Mr Walter Campbell of Shawfield, sold it in 1788 to Mr Robert Houston Rae of Little Govan. It does not appear that any of the proprietors took the title of Shawfield, but the Hamiltons, Crawfords, and Campbells. Next to the town on the east, and along the side of the river, is the estate of Farme. It is said to have been once the private property of some of the Stuarts, Kings of Scotland. It after- wards belonged to the family of Crawford, who naming it from themselves called it Crawford Farme. It soon afterwards came into the possession of Sir Walter Stewart of Minto, who dwelt in the castle about the year 1645. He is reported to have been a gentleman of extraordinary prudence and humanity, and during the commotions of the times, to have obtained many favours for Ru- therglen. The Flemings had it for some time in their possession, and at length it came into the Hamilton family. It is now called Farme, and was purchased by Mr Farie, father of Mr James Farie, the present proprietor, from the Duke of Hamilton. On the estate, and nearly in the middle of the beautiful lawn, the ancient castle, now the family seat of Mr Farie, is situated. The period in which it was built is unknown, but the thick walls, the narrow and irregu- larly placed windows, the strong battlements, &c. are evidences of its antiquity, and that it was erected as a place of strength. Being kept in excellent repair, it is wholly habitable, and may continue for ages to come, a beautiful pattern of the manner in which the habitations of the powerful barons of Scotland were an- ciently constructed. Mr Farie has built a suitable addition to the castle ; and, to prevent his lands from being injured by inundations, has raised a bank at the river aloqg his property. In May 1792, one of the principal rooms in the old castle was repaired. The workmen having pulled down an old stucco ceiling, discovered another of timber under it. On the beams, which had been long covered up, several lines were written in old English characters, in the style of precepts, one of which was, " Fair speech in presence with good report in absence^ and manners even to feU lowship obtains great reverence; written in the year 1325. Farther up the Clyde is Hamilton Farme, the property of Miss Sommerville. Near to Hamilton Farme is Morrieston, the pro- perty of Mr Joseph Bain ; and Rosebank, the property of the heirs of the late Mr David Dale. In the higher parts of the parish are some considerable estates, RUTHERGLEN. 377 as Gallowflat, the property of Mr John Robertson Reid ; Scotstown of Mr John Gray; Stonelawof Mr Charles Cunningham; Bank- iead of Mr Walter White, the present Provost of Rutherglen. Elegant and commodious mansion-houses are built on these estates. The town's lands consist of the Green, a plain of 32 acres and SI fidls, lying between the town and the river. The soil is rich uid deep, owing to the accumulation of mud and decayed vege- tables carried down the Clyde. It appears from the Municipal Corporation Report that the other property of the burgh consists of tie Court hall, prison rooms, gaoler's house, &c., a schoolhouse, achoolmaster^s house, town-hall, and two other properties, the ^ole supposed to be in value about L. 10,000. Climate. — As there are no known data in Rutherglen from which to ascertain the heat and quantity of rain, the following is taken from Cleland's Statistical Tables for Glasgow. The state of the thermometer in 1834 was ascertained at the Cranston Hill Water-works, (separated from the parish of Ruther- glen only by the Clyde) by Mr M*Kain, the scientific manager of the works, who suspended one of Crichton's Fahrenheit thermo- 'J'ieters in an open well about twenty feet diameter, cradled with ^ne, in a position apart from the rays of the sun, and enjoined the day and night engineers, who are in constant attendance, to °^ the hourly state of the thermometer in a book, and from that '^ook Mr M^Kain constructed a tabic, exhibiting the temperature kourly, daily, weekly, monthly, and yearly. The result was, an ^^erage temperature during two years, from 1st January 1833, to Ist January 1835, 4a43. The greatest heat of the thermometer on 24th January 1834 ^44.37, and the least heat on the 29th, 33.12. Average heat *>.5a On the 18th February, 46.08; on the 13th, 32.25 ; ave- ^40.08. On 6th December, 52.16; on the 19th, 26.37 ; ^'erage, 39.6a On 2d June, 63.45 ; on 13th, 52.33 ; average, W.91. On 4th July, 67.33; on 19th, 56.87; average, 62.04. 9*^ 3d August, 67.83 ; on 28th, 49.75 ; average, 59.37. These ^ months exhibit the extremes in the year. The extremes were applicable only to a few hours in the respective months. The "*^ heat of Glasgow was formerly determined by Professor Thomas Thomson to be 47.75, while that of Edinburgh, as de- *®rmined by Professor Playfair, was 47.72. But it is presumed ^ these eminent philosophers had not the advantage of hour- V inspection. 378 LANARKSHIRE. Hydrography. — A considerable part of the parish is bounded on the north by the river Clyde. The Bowtree dam, which sup- plies the mill with water, is the only pool in the parish. Mineralogy. — There are five coal-mines in the parish, viz. one worked by Mr Fane at Farme; two by Mr Gray at Eastfield; one by Mr Cunningham at Stonelaw ; and one by Mr Colin Dunlopat Ha- milton Farme. Some of these mines produce a small quantity of ironstone. It appears from the Government abstract for 1831, page 999, that 305 persons were then employed in the coal mines, and 27 in the quarries of Rutherglen. Prior to 1775, the colliers of Rutherglen, and other places in Scotland, were by the common law in a state of slavery. They, and their wives and children, if they had assisted at coal -works, became the property of the coal- masters, and were transferred with the coal-work, in the same man- ner as the slaves on a West India estate. In the Rev. Dr Maclae's report of the parish of Rothsay for the Statistical Account in 1791, it is said that a cart of coals con- taining 12 cwt. cost 3s. 6d. in Glasgow, and an equal sum to take them to Rothsay in the Island of Bute. For seven years prior to 1836, coals in quantities were delivered in Glasgow at the steam- boat quay from Rutherglen at from 6s. 9d. to 7s. 9d. per ton. Th^ supply for families was Is. more per ton. II. — Civil and Ecclesiastical History. The following facts, collected from the records of the burgh, the Presbytery of Glasgow, the Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Ure's History of Rutherglen, and other authentic documents, con- tain a pretty accurate account of the state of society in Ruther- glen at the periods referred to. The distinguishing characteristics of the people of this parish, (like others in the neighbourhood,) about the time of the Re- formation, and for nearly a century after it, were ignorance and a fierce sanguinary spirit. Their belief in apparitions, witches, se- cond-sight, their profanation of the Sabbath by working, rioting at fairs, and the numerous murders and cases of incest of the worst description, exhibit the depravity of the age. The administration of justice, and the execution of the criminal law must have been in a most deplorable state, when such crimes were left to the cen- sure of the church. A long letter from King James VI. is engrossed in the Synod records. It is dated at Ruthen (Ruglen) 19th August 1586, and directed to Mr Andrew Hay, Commissioner for the west country. RUTHERGLEN. 379 It recommends the suppression of impiety and vice, and authorizes discipline — ^promises the support of the civil power — is wiUing to put the benefices on a proper footing — to receive proposals from the church — but reserves consideration of any alteration that may be made. Among the evils to be removed by the kirk are witch- craft, incest, murders, idle beggars, persons passing on pilgrimages to chapels or wells, inquiring the names of certain crofts or pieces of ground reported to be superstitiously consigned to the devil, under the name of the Gudeman or Hyndeknyt. On 24th February 1590, the presbytery of Glasgow directed the doctor of the school of Rutherglen to desist from reading prayers, and they complained that those who provided wine for the sacrament of the Lord's supper mixed it with water. The pres- bytery exhorted the people not to drink the wine greedily but to '^ive it with all sobriety, and to have the eyes of their souls bfted up to heaven, and not to drink the wine barbarously. On 8th May 1593, the presbytery ordered their clerk to write * fetter to my Lord Paisley to repair the choir of Ruglen kirk; and *t the same time they prohibited the playing of pipes on Sundays, *fOin sun rising to its going down, on pain of excommunication, and forbade all pastimes on Sundays. This order to be read in all the kirks, but especially in the kirk of Ruglen. On 20th May 1595, the presbytery sent three letters, viz. to the Laird of Farme, the Laird of Lekprivick, and the bailies of «^utherglen, to stay the profane plays introduced in Ruglen on the lord's day, as they fear the eternal God^ and will be answerable ^his kirk. They also complained of the practice of drawing sal- mon, and of the colliers in Ruglen settling their accounts on Sunday. On 20th March 1604, Sir Claud Hamilton of Shawfield « in- *^^pted the minister of Ruglen in time of sermon, after a bar- b^ous and unchristian manner ; and Andrew Pinkerton boasted that he had put away four ministers from Ruglen, and he hoped ^ put away Mr Hamilton also. He drew a whinger and held it ^ the minister's breast, and David Spens said he would stick twa ''listers, and would not give a fig for excommunication." On 29th July 1607, the presbytery ordered the minister of ^len to intimate from the pulpit on Sunday next, that the next "cdnesday is to be solemnly kept by every parishioner resorting ^ the kirk, for praising of God's blessed name, for his Majesty's Preservation and deliverance from that treasonable attempt and ^nspiracy against his Majesty's life at Perth, (the Gowrie con- 380 LANARKSHIRE. spiracy.) The tumults at Ruglen at this period were so great that it was thought meet that the minister should urge his transporta- tion. James Riddell sat at the communion table, though his mi- nister had ordered him to rise, and, in contempt of the minister and session, he cut the grass on the kirk-yard on the Sabbath day. At this period Sir William Hamilton, Elistoun, came from France, to reside in Ruglen, and being suspected of favouring papists, gave great uneasiness to the presbytery. During the troubles in the reign of Charles I. the presbytery of Glasgow, on 17th May 1648, declared that they were not sa- tisfied with the lawfulness, necessity, and manner of prosecuting the war, and desired that the levy might be stopped, and that re- ligion, loyalty, and the King, might be kept in their proper place. Mr Baillie, Professor of Divinity in Glasgow, and Mr Gillespie, minister of the Outer Kirk there, were appointed to draw up a re- monstrance to Parliament. The commissioners transmitted their declarature, in opposition to the Parliament's wish, and in defi- ance of the privy-council, and ordered the declarature to be read in all the kirks, as the ministers will be answerable to God and the kirk. Mr Robert Young, minister of Ruglen, was opposed to the reading of it, and the town-clerk of that burgh, who was a mem- ber of Parliament, forbade the magistrates to hear it The laird of Minto, the magistrates, and the town-clerk, went out of the church, and desired the people to dismiss. The communion was to have been celebrated on the Sunday following, but the presbytery prohibited it till the scandal was tried and censured. The session of Ruglen, in opposition to the minister, sent a letter to the com- mittee of war at Hamilton, informing them that they were not sa- tisfied with the lawfulness of the war, and desired that it might be put an end to. The birth-day and restoration of Charles II. was celebrated at Ruglen, with bonfires and other marks of rejoicing, on 29th May 1679. On that occasion a body of men, about eighty in number, who were incensed at government on account of the persecutions against the covenanters, to which it gave its sanction, assembled at the cross of Ruglen, with a fixed resolution to execute a plan of retaliation they had previously concerted. Having chosen a leader, they sung psalms, and prayed. The acts of Parliament against conventicles were then committed to the flames of the bonfire. This was the first public appearance of the Bothwell Bridge as- RUTHERGLEN. 381 iociatioDy as it was called by the covenanters, or rebellion, as it was termed by the court party.* Guthrie gives the following account of this afiFair in his history of Scotland : " In the year 1679, immediately after the death of Sharpe Bishop of St Andrew's, the cruelty of Lord Lauderdale ^d his party arose to such a height against the Presbyterians, that many of them resolved to assert their liberty by taking up arms. About eighty of them assembled at Ruglen, a young preacher of the name of Hamilton was declared their head, and on the 29th ^aj, they drew up a declaration against all the acts of Parliament '^•a.ting to religion, and publickly committed them to the flames of the bonfire that had been lighted up in commemoration of the day. After a successful engagement with Captain Graham of Qaverhouse, they took possession of the town of Hamilton, and *ooi| made themselves masters of Glasgow, but were afterwards to- ^ly defeated at Bothwell Bridge, by the Duke of Monmouth." On 4th June 1690, the presbytery informed the people of Ru- S^^t^ that, as this was the first meeting after the re-establishment ®^ the Presbyterian form of government, the only standing go- ^®^^ment of this church, Mr Joseph Drew was directed to go to Stirling, and preach to the people who had left the west country, Oji account of the troubles of the kingdom, and considering the an- ^^^Dt and laudable custom of the ministers meeting together at din- ^^i* on the ordinary days of the presbytery, agree to dine in Alex- ^der Cochrane's house in Glasgow. Mr Dixon the minister of Ru- glen was prohibited from mentioning various interpretations of texts, in opposition to one another, and is instructed to give the ^terpretation which is agreeable to the analogy of faith and ttie analogy of the text; and if any error is supposed to be taught ^^ shall not be introduced before the congregation, but represent- ^ to the presbytery, and their direction followed. The curates ^«re examined on oath as to their knowledge of where the synod and presbytery records could be found. Some course was to be The people of Glasgow seem to have been actuated by a similar spirit to that *^r neighbours in Rutherglen. " The comraission of the General Assembly of p Church of Scotland, deprecating the union with England, appointed a fast to be •J5 ^^ Thursday, the 7th of November 1706, to implore divine assistance from ^ Spending calamity ; on which occasion the Rev. James Clark, minister of the ^'po Church, Glasgow, preached from these words in Ezra viii. 21. * Then I pro- ved a fast there, at the river of Ahava, that we might afflict ourselves before our "°<*» to seek of him a right way for us, and for our little ones, and for all our sub- *^' After the discourse was finished, the preacher said * Wherefore up and be ^™nt, for the city of our God.* The people instantly arose, and, along with their "•'Kyman, hurried to the cross, where they burned the proposed articles of union." 382 LANARKSHIRE. taken with the Episcopal men who preach on holidays, and ad- minister the sacrament of the supper privately, and by kneeling. The following account of the affairs of Kutherglen is taken from the general report of the Commissioners on Municipal CJor- porations, presented to both houses of Parliament in 1835, by com- mand of his Majesty. At a meeting of the general Coqverition of Royal Burghs, held at Edinburgh on 9th July 1691, it was enacted, that two commis- sioners should be sent to every burgh in Scotland, to ascertain their true state. Mr James Fletcher, Provost of Dundee, and Mr Alexander Walker, Bailie of Aberdeen, two of the Commissioners, opened their commission at Rutherglen on 7th May 1692, when Robert Bowman, Provost, John Scott, Bailie, and William Spens, town-clerk, gave in the following statement on oath : Istj That the common good of the burgh amount to 959 lib. 16, 3, Scots, and the debt to 7100 merks. 2^^ That the burgh has no mortifications (mortmains.) Qd, That they have neither foreign nor inland trade ; that they do not vend nor consume French wine, sack, or brandy, except some few pints of brandy they buy in Glasgow ; and that they con- sume about five bolls of malt weekly. 4ih^ They have no ships, barks, boats, or ferry-boats belonging to them. 5thy Their minister is paid out of the teinds ; their schoolmaster and all their public servants out of the common good. 6thy The most part of the houses are inhabited by the respec- tive heritors. The rent of the best and the worst of those houses will be between the rent of eight and four pound Scots, and that they have no stranger inhabitants. 7thj They have four yearly faii:^, three of one day's continuance, and the fourth of four or five days' continuance, and that they have no weekly market* • The following note, taken from the same document, relates to Glasgow. On Ist May 1692, Provost James Peddie, Bailies Matthew Cummin and Simon Tennent, and Mr George Anderson, town-clerk, gave in the following statement on oath : ]»^ The common good of the burgh amounts to 16,9U21ibs. Scots, and the debt to 178,800 libs. Scots, principal, and annual rents. 2d, That their foreign trade amounts to 205,000 libs Scots ; that they vend and re- tail about twenty tuns of French wine, twenty butts of sack, and about ten or twelve butts of brandy yearly; and that they vend and consume about 1000 bolls of malt monthly. 3d, That they have fifteen ships, whereof eight are hi the harbour and seven abroad, and eight lighters ; viz, 1 ship, 160 tons ; 2, 150 ; 1, 100 ; 4,80 ; 1, 70 ; 2. 60; 2, 36 and 2, 30. At this period the shipping harbour was at Port- Glasgow. RUTHERGLEN. 383 Antiquities, — At Gallowflat there are the remains of a tumulus of earth. This mound was anciently surrounded with a ditch, the traces of which were visible so late as the year 1773. At that pe- riod the proprietor, Mr Patrick Robertson, formed the ditch into a fish pond. During the operation a paved passage, six feet broad, was discovered leading up to the top of the mound. Near to this passage, two brass or copper vessels were found shaped like por- ringers, with broad handles about nine inches long, on which the word Congallus was cut. . In a tumulus at Hamilton Farm, a stone coffin was found in 1768; since that period, it has been levelled with the ground. The tumulus at Drumlaw has long since been removed. The cross erected on the top of Cross-hill was made of a hard stone, ten feet high and three and a-half broad, ornamented with ^ous figures. The most remarkable was that of our Saviour riding upon an ass. This religious monument fell a sacrifice to the fury of a mob during the civil wars in Charles I.*s time. In Ure's History, from which this account of antiquities is taken, there are several others, though of less importance. Ancient Customs. — The inhabitants of Rutherglen seem to have ■^n very tenacious of ancient customs, some of which are still ■tept up. Peramhulating the Marches. — On a particular day, the magi- strates, accompanied by a great proportion of the inhabitants, per- ^bulated the burgh marches, with drums beating and colours %ing. When the procession was over, a mock engagement with '^foom besoms took place, which ended in a jollnfication. This custom was given up in 1830. &mr Cakes. — Rutherglen has long been famous for sour cakes. About eight or ten days before St Luke's fair, in October, a cer- ^n quantity of oat meal is made into dough with warm water, ^d laid up in a vessel to ferment. Being brought to a proper degree of fermentation and consistency, it is rolled up into balls, P^oportionably to the intended largeness of the cakes. With the "Ough is commonly mixed a small quantity of sugar, and a little ^^^seed or cinnamon. The baking is executed by women only, ^A» The decay of trade is such that a great number and many of the best of the r^'^'es are waste, yea, that there are near 500 houses standing waste, and that those j^«bited are fallen nearly one third of the rent, and that the best and worst wiU be ^»ixt loo pounds, (whereof they have not eight inhabited J>y burghers) and 4 lib. ^ts yearly, eicept some large taverns. 384 LANAIIKSHIRE. and they seldom begin their work till after sunset, and a night or two before the fair. A large space of the house chosen for the purpose is marked out by a line drawn upon it. The area within is considered as consecrated ground, and is not by any of the by- standers to be touched with impunity. A transgression incurs a small fine, which is always laid out on drink for the use of the company. This hallowed spot is occupied by six or eight women, all of whom, except the toaster, seat themselves on the ground in a circular form, having their feet turned towards the fire. Each of them is provided with a bake-board, about two feet square, which they hold on their knees. The woman who toasts the cakes, which is done on a girdle suspended over the fire, is called the Queen or Bride, and the rest her maidens. These are distinguish- ed from one another, by names given them for the occasion. She who sits next the fire towards the east is called the Todler ; her companion on the left hand is called the Hodler^ and the rest have arbitrary names given them by the Bride, as Mrs Baker, best and worst maids, &c. The operation is begun by the Todlevy who takes a ball of the dough, forms it into a small cake, and then casts it on the bake-board of the Hodler, who beats it out a little thinner. This being done, she in her turn throws it on the board of her neighbour, and thus it goes round from east to west, in the direction of the course of the sun, until it comes to the toaster, by which time it is as thin and smooth as a sheet of paper. The first cake that is cast on the girdle is usually named as a gift to some well-known cuckold, from a superstitious opinion that there- by the rest will be preserved from mischance. Sometimes the cake is so thin as to be carried by the current of the air up into the chimney. As the baking is wholly performed by the hand a great deal of noise is the consequence. The beats, however, are not ir- regular, nor destitute of an agreeable harmony, especially when they are accompanied with vocal music, which is frequently the case. Great dexterity is necessary not only to beat out the cakes with no other instniment than the hand, so that no part of them shall be thicker than another, but especially to cast them from one board to another, without ruflBing or breaking them. The toast- ing requires considerable skill, for which reason the most experi- enced person in the company is chosen for that part of the work. One cake is sent round in quick succession to another, so that RUTHERGLEN. 385 none of the company is suffered to be idle. The whole is a scene of activity, mirth, and diversion, and might afford an excellent sub- ject for a picture. There is no account of the origin of this cus- tom. The bread thus baked was doubtless never intended for common use. It is not easy to conceive why mankind, especially in a rude age, would strictly observe so many ceremonies, and be at so great pains in making a cake, which, when folded together, makes but a scanty mouthful. Besides it is always given away in pre- ^nts to strangers, who frequent the fair. The custom seems to have been originally derived from Paganism, and to contain not a fei^ of the sacred rites peculiar to that impure religion, as the le- vened dough, and the mixing it with sugar and spices, the conse- nted ground, &c &c This custom is given up, except in ^ne house of Bailie Hugh Fulton, vintner, where the entire ce- '^naonies are gone through. Sour Cream, — Rutherglen is famous for making sour cream of 30 excellent quality. It is made in the following manner : A cer- ^n quantity of sweet milk is put into a wooden vessel or vat, which ^ placed in a proper degree of heat, and covered with a Hnen ^^th. In due time, the serous or watery part of the milk begins 'o Separate from the rest, and is called whi^. When the separa- tion is complete, which, according to circumstances, requires more ^^ less time, the whig is drawn off from near the bottom of the vessel. The substance that remains is then beat with a large spoon or ladle, till the particles of which it is composed are pro- perty mixed. A small quantity of sweet milk is sometimes added to correct the acidity if it is in excess. The cream thus prepar- ^ is agreeable to the taste, and nourishing to the constitution. III. — Population. There seems to have been no enumeration of the inhabitants of the parish of Rutherglen that can be relied on prior to 1755, ^nen it was taken for Dr Webster, then drawing up his report for the widows' fund. In that year, the population amounted to 988. 1^ 1791, according to Chalmers' Caledonia, it amounted to 1860. lo 1793, Ure states, that, " the town of Rutherglen consisted of *^S dwelling-houses, inhabited by 400 families, containing 1631 P^J^ns, of whom 270 children under six years of age, males, ^Ij females, 830." This does not include the landward part y the parish. If the landward contained 500 persons, which it *s^ery probable it did, the population in 1793 would have been 2131. 386 LANARKSHIRE. From the GovernmeDt Censuses. Vear, 1801, 1811, 1821, 1831, Houtet. t 847 728 617 I 661 I E 726 928 1238 3 9 2 1 I 21 19 4 Occupationt, III 6 *. w 270 48 163 102 S a F ss •< 4 640 427 736 1136 1 1527 251 29 Pef9(ms, I 1200 1660 2295 2733 1 2437 3529 4640 5503 As there is no enumeration of births, majriages, and deaths, in this parish, by which the probability of human life can be ascer- tained with any degree of accuracy, it seems proper to explain the manner in which bills of mortality have been drawn up in the ad- joining parishes of Glasgow, where great pains have been bestow- ed to render them accurate. For want of understanding the prin- ciples upon which the proper construction of such tables depend, most of the writers on this subject, many of them men of great merit and industry, have taken much pains to little purpose, and after excessive labour, have arrived at false conclusions. Hardly any of them appear to have been aware of the necessity of ob- taining the number of the living as well as of the annual deaths in each interval of age, or that that would greatly enhance the value of bills of mortality, by extending their useful applications. According to Cleland's folio Statistical Tables for Glasgow, p. 260, it appears that, in the year 1821, the population was 147,043; deaths, 3686 ; rate of mortality 1 in 39/^®^ persons. In 1831, the population was 202,426; deaths, 5185; rate of mortality, 1 in 39 ^^^ persons. From an official return for the kingdom of the Netherlands, where the code Napoleon is strictly enforced, the population was found to be 6,166,854; deaths, 158,800; rate of mortality, 1 in 38tVo persons. From the Government parish register abstract. Vol. iiL p. 496, ordered by the House of Commons to be printed on 2d April 1833, it appears that, on the average of the metropolis from 1811 to 1821, the rate of mortality was 1 in 39.6 persons. From the same official document it appears, that, on a similar average, from 1821 to 1831, the rate of mortality was 1 in 39.8 persons. IV. — Industry. It does not appear that Rutherglen has ever been very conspi* 3 RUTHERGLEN. 387 cuous for the extent of its trade. At an early period, there was a considerable traffic in salmon for the French market ; returns were made in brandy. The quay at the south-west corner of the public green seems to have been built for shipping coals. In 1813, a judicial examination of very old persons took place with refe- rence to the upper navigation, from which it appeared, that about the year 1745, craft went up the Clyde as far as West-thorn, and even so late as 1786, small craft went up to Rutherglen, and it is pretty evident, that but for the erection of a wear at the Glasgow bridge, the trade might not only have continued, but increased. A few years ago, the Messrs Wilson of Thornlie began to bring coals down the river, from their pits at Dalmamock, in punts propelled by a steam tug, to their quay a little above Hutchison's bridge^ but with this exception there is no craft plying above Glas- gow bridge. About ten years ago, a small steamer, the Marion, during a flood in the river, made an experimental trip through the arches of the bridges, and moored off the quay at Rutherglen. Fifty years ago, there were no manufactories in the parish. About 1790, two printfields were made, one in the burgh of Ru- therglen by Mr Gumming, and the other in Shawfield by Mr Dal- glish. These works, which then employed about 200 persons, have been enlarged, and now belong to Messrs Reid and White- ^ttsLDy and Stewart and M^Aulay.