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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I bn THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. VOL. VI. THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. BY THE MINI8TEB8 OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMHITTEB OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLEBQT. VOL. VI. UNABK. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. LANARK. ^^i-. CONTENTS. - -i > AVONDALE, PAGE 301 BERTRAM 8HOTT8, • 624 BIGOAR, 354 BLANTYRB, • 314 BOTHWBLL, 765 CADDBR, • 391 CAMBUSLANO, 416 CAMBU8NBTHAN, • 608 CARLUKE, . # . 563 CARMICHAEL, • 517 CARMUNNOCK, 597 CARNWATB, V 76 CARSTAIRS, 547 COVINGTON AND THANKERTON, ■ 872 CRAWFORDJOHN, 497 CRAWPURD, * 327 CULTER, 340 OALSBRP, • 719 DALZBLL, 442 DOLPHINTON, • 49 DOUGLAS, 477 DUNSYRE, • 64 BAST KILBRIDE, 877 6LASFORD, • 294 GLASGOW, 101 GO VAN, • 668 HAMILTON, 249 KILBRIDE, BAST, • 877 LANARK, 1 I.BSMAHAGOW, • 30 LIRBERTON AND QUOTHQUHAN, 41 MONKLAND, NEW, • 242 MONKLAND, OLD, 635 PBTTINAIN, • 535 RUTHERGLEN, 373 8HOTT8, • 624 STONBHOUSE, 468 SYMINGTON, ■ 867 WALSTON, 846 WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE, • 805 WISTON AND ROBERTON, 93 f t i • PARISH OF LANARK. PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. WILLIAM MENZIES, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. • Name and Baimdaries, — Some trace the origin of the name of this parish to the Latin terms Lana and arca^ quasi the wool'' chest; others to Lan-^mg^ the bank of the river ; or to the Gaelic words Lmu^ signifying a house, repository, or church, and deare^ a bilberry. A derivation equally probable is that given by Chalmers in his Caledonia ; namely, from Llannerch^ which in several places in Wales is applied to a slip of level ground, or a vale.* The parish lies pretty nearly in the centre of the county to which it gives its name. It is of an irregular oblong form ; in the south about 3, in the north about 5 miles broad. It is from 6 to 7 miles in length; and stretches along the eastern bank of the river Clyde, which separates it on the south from Pettinain and Car- michael, and on the west from Lesmahagoe. The adjacent parish on the north is Carluke, from which it is partly divjded by Mashoch burn. Carstairs bounds it on the east. The town of Lanark is situated in 55° 34' of north latitude, and 3° 5' of west longitude from Greenwich. It may be considered as the central town of the Lowlands, being 31 miles distant from Edinburgh, 35 from Stir- ling, 25 from Glasgow, and 47 from Ayr. Topographical Appearances, — The ground nowhere rises into any eminence deserving the name of a hill. It may be described in general as an elevated plateau, declining on the south and west towards the River Clyde, sometimes in gentle slopes, sometimes in steep declivities. From east to west, it is bisected by the deep and irregular valley of the Mouss. The flat uplands on * Several places in North Britain have the same name ; thus Ix^ndrich in Kil- madock ; Lendrich in Duroblanc ; Lendrich in Callander; Lendrich Hill in Fos- saway ; and Drumlanrig, the former seat of the Duke of Queensberry ; all these ac- cord with the colloquial name of Lanerk, and are prolwibly from the same British source. LANARK. A 2 LANARKSHIRE. either side of this valley, where they rise to the highest elevation at Lee moor on the north, and Lanark moor on the south, are pretty nearly of the same height, — being about 670 feet above the level of the sea. The same valley presents two very remarkable chasms. The river Mouss shortly after it enters the parish, near Cleghom, plunges into a deep ravine, which it seems to have formed through the solid rock as a channel for its waters. Lower down, and at little more than a mile from its junction with the Clyde, the river, abruptly leaving its direct course, although the comparative lowness of the ground seems favourable for its continuing in it, again, by a sudden bend, seeks its way in a deep chasm through the hill of Cartlane. This tremendous ravine is about half a mile in length. It is composed of two faces of irregular, precipitous and lofty rocks, and describes in its course a zig-zag line. Where- ever the cliffs come prominently forward upon the one side, there is a corresponding recession on the other. The north bank is about 400 feet high, the south is at least 100 feet lower. Va- rious conjectures have been proposed as to the manner in which this remarkable chasm was formed, but these it is unnecessary to discuss or to notice in this place. Meteorology-^Climaie. — Owing to the elevated situation of the parish, there is at times very intense frost. A gardener in the neighbourhood during several severe winters, comparing the cold here with simultaneous observations made at Edinburgh and Glas- gow, generally found it to be 10^ more intense than at either of the&e places. 'Jlliis applies, however, only to the uplands ; for in the lower situations, the frosts are less severe, and the snow dis- appears much sooner than in most of the surrounding districts ; and it is no uncommon thing to see the plough going on the banks of the Clyde, while the ground cannot be broken in the adjacent parishes. The seasons formerly varied with the soil along the banks of the river. Where the subsoil is a hard rock, and the soil itself light and gravelly, they were always remarkably early. But along the north and east sides of the parish they used once to be prover- bially late ; and there are persons still alive who have been known to engage themselves to do the harvest work consecutively in both situations in the same year. Since fencing, draining, and a better mode of cultivation, however, have been introduced, this variation has almost entirely disappeared. Its central situation saves the parish alike from the fogs of the eastern, as from the superabundant niins of the western coast. LANARK. 3 The atmosphere is much less hamid than at Glasgow, and even Hamilton* It has often been observed that not more than one out of five of the spring and autumnal showers which rise duly to windward pass over this parish, being either attracted by the range of mountains to the soqth, or by the high wet ground on the nortb-west ; and that the thunder storms which succeed the summer droughts commonly drench all the neighbouring districts before they reach this place. Hie prevailing winds are west and south. The latter is generally attended by rain. Any permanent drought usually begins with an east wind. • Diaeases.'-^Jjsjiaxk is celebrated, and deserves its reputation, as a remarkably healthy place, — an advantage for which it probably is indel^ad to its open, dry, and elevated situation, and the absence of all noxious effluvia. There is no endemical disease. Cases of wen soinetimes occur, and at particular seasons, especially in spring and autunm, the variation of the temperature and the prevalence of rain occasion all kinds of catarrhal complaints, such as colds, 9ore«throat, &c. and likewise diseases of the viscera, chest, and abdo- m^i often accompanied by fluxes and spasms. Typhus fever also prevails more or less at these seasons. Yet, on the whole, the quantity of disease is unusually smalL In the village of New La- nark, where the inhabitants are exclusively employed in the ma- nufacture of cotton yam, and exposed many hours at a time to the inhalation of an atmosphere loaded with cotton flocculi and dust, numerous cases of pulmonary disease might be expected. Yet, on consulting the medical records of that extensive establishment, such cases are found to be much rarer, in proportion to the number of the inhabitants, than in the neighbouring town. This may arise part- ly from the equable temperature which is maintained in the rooms of the manufactory, and partly from the low and sheltered situa- tion of the place, exposing the inhabitants less to the influence of those exciting causes which would bring the latent disease into action. Hydrography. — There is no extensive sheet of water in the pa- rish. Lang-loch, to the south-east, is the largest Hiere are places, however, which bear evident marks of having formerly been under water, particularly the low valley adjoining the house of Lee, amount- ing to more than 100 acres. The River Mouss, which we have mentioned as traversing the parish from east to west, has its source in the northern parts of Camwath moor. It draws its contributions principally from the 4 LANARKSHIRE. adjacent mosses, the dark colour of whose waters it retains, and to that circumstance has probably been indebted for its name. It is in general an insignificant stream, but is occasionally swelled by copious rains into a powerful torrent In summer, it is subject to such decrease, as scarcely to be sufficient for supplying the nume- rous mills erected upon its banks. Its course is irregular, westerly in its direction, with a slight inclination to the south. After emerg- ing from the rocks at Cleghorn, it finds a more expansive channel through finely wooded banks, steep upon the south, and gently slop- ing upon the northern side. On issuing from the Cartlane Craigs, it pursues but a brief course before it falls into the Clyde, opposite the village of Kirkfield-bank. Cartlane Craigs. — There are few specimens of rocky scenery in the country to be compared with the Cleghorn, but more especially the Cartlane Craigs. Even when seen from the walks which skirt the summit of the precipice on either side, they present the most romantic views of bold and lofty rocks, combined in endless va- riety with wood and water. But the traveller who visits this spot in sununer, (at which season alone the passage by the bed of the river is practicable,) and will submit to the toil of an occasional scramble over rocks, will enjoy the highest gratification. At every turn of the river, a new and varying scene of rocky grandeur, heightened by the accompaniments of the stream, and a rich and varied foliage, bursts upon the view. The popular tradition, that a cave in this ravine once aflTorded a refuge to the patriot Sir Wil- liam Wallace, gives additional interest to the scene. It also a few years ago received a new ornament by the erection of a bridge, which spans the chasm at its lower extremity, with three arches, and whose Roman simplicity and elegance are in the finest keeping with the scenery around. Cb/de. — The Clyde is here a large and beautiful river. It ap- proaches the parish from the east with a scarcely perceptible mo- tion, after flowing through a long track of holm land, which, being very little elevated above the bed of the stream, is liable occasion- ally to be overflowed, and seems to have once formed the bottom of an extensive lake, before the waters had worn their channel sufli- ciently deep to drain it. It then takes a long sweep towards the south and south-west with a more accelerated motion ; the high grounds advance on each side, and the channel becomes uneven and rocky. But upon passing Hyndford Bridge, it assumes its former placid aspect, and, receiving a considerable augmentation from one of its LANARK. 5 principal tributaries, the Douglas Water, soon reaches the Boning« ton Fall, where, in a divided stream, it is abruptly precipitated over a ledge of rocks of about thirty feet of perpendicular height Its channel from this point, for &bout half a mile, is formed of a range of perpendicular and equidistant rocks on either side, which are from 70 to 100 feet high, and which Mr Pennant has well characterized as stupendous natural masonry. At Corehouse it encounters an- other fall 84 feet in height, and immediately assumes a more tran- quil character until it reaches a small cascade called Dundaf Lin, about a quarter of a mile farther down. The banks now slope more gently, sometimes covered with natural wood, and sometimes cul- tivated to the water's edge. This character it preserves for a dis- tance of about three or four miles, until it reaches Stonebyres, where it passes through another rocky ridge, and projects itself in three leaps over a precipice of 80 feet in height In its farther course, which extends about a mile and a-half in this parish, the stream in general flows quietly between gently sloping and beauti- fully wooded banks. Hie breadth and depth of the river vary at difierent places. At the broadest a stone may be thrown across ; and there is a spot between the Bonington and Corra Falls where the whole volume of its waters is so confined between two rocks, that an adventurous leaper has been known to clear it at a bound. There are fords which children can wade across, and pools which have never been fathomed* The scenery along the banks of the Clyde is acknowledged to be scarcely equalled in this country, and rarely surpassed abroad. It has for a long period attracted multitudes of admiring visitors during the fine season, and still continues to be as much visited as ever. The country above the falls is comparatively tame and un- interesting. But from that point nothing can surpass the variety and beauty of the prospects, which successively present themselves to the eye of the traveller. fVaterfaUs, — The waterfalls, however, are the chief objects of attraction. The uppermost, called the Bonington Fall, is about two miles and a-half distant from Lanark. The way lies for the most part through the beautiful grounds of Bonington ; and, with a libe- rality worthy of imitation, the Ross family, to whom the property belongs, allow free access on every day but the Sabbath, and at all hours, to the public, who find tasteful walks kept in the highest order, and seats at every fine point of view for their accommodation. 6 LANARKSHIRE. The upper is perhaps the least beanttful of the falls, owing to its smaller height, and to the bareness of the southern bank above it. Still, when seen from the point at which it first bursts upon the view, it is very imposing ; and the present proprietor. Lady Mary Ross, by means of a bridge thrown across the north branch of the stream, immediately above the precipice, and points of observation happily selected, has secured some charming coups (Toeil to the ad- mirers of nature. The Corra Lin, which is about half a mile far- ther down, is generally allowed to be the finest of the three. Un- til a few years ago, this splendid cascade could only be seen ttom above. But fine although it must ever be from whencesoever con-- templated, all former views of it were greatly inferior to one which the present proprietor has opened up. A flight of steps has been formed along the face of the opposite rock. By this, the traveller descends into a deep and capacious amphitheatre, where he finds himself exactly in front, and on a level with the bottom of the fall. The foaming waters, as they are projected in a double leap over the precipice, the black and weltering pool below, the magnificent range of dark perpendicular rocks 120 feet in height, which sweeps around him on the left, the romantic banks on the opposite side, the river, calmly pursuing its onward course, and the rich garniture of wood with which the whole is dressed, combine to form a spec- tacle with which the most celebrated cataracts in Switzerland and Sweden will scarcely stand a comparison. The lower or Stonebyres Fall, so named from the adjacent estate of Stonebyres, belonging to the ancient family of Vere, it is unnecessary to describe. It has great similarity in many of its features to the Corra Lin, and it is sufficient to say, that, in the opinion of many it is even superior in beauty. Geology. — The parish lies upon a mass of old red sandstone, which probably forms the basis of the country to the south and east. This mass is composed of strata from a few inches to many feet in thickness, having a considerable declination towards the east, but upon the surface they generally follow the declination of the ground in which they are situated. It is also divided by perpendi- cular fissures, which become less perceptible as they descend be- low the influence of the sun and air. In some places it is likewise traversed by narrow dikes of trap rock, sinking perpendicularly, and cutting the general stratification nearly at right angles. The trap rock of these dikes is often disintegrated, or if solid, appearing comi)osed of a congeries of elliptical balls, and has evidently been LANARK. 7 in a state of fusion at the time of its formation. Many of the internal crevices are filled with heavy spar, some of which is found in a ^tate of complete crystallization. On the lands of Jer- viswood, a thick vein of quartz, intermixed with small veins of rich iron ore, was discovered many years ago, which for some time raised sanguine expectations that lead or other valuable minerals would be found in its neighbourhood. But these expectations have not yet been realized. The surface of the rock is very rugged and un- even, consisting of several conical eminences, which sometimes rise with a gentle ascent, and sometimes abruptly terminate, forming precipices of several hundred feet in height No beds of coal have hitherto been discovered in the parish, except- ing at the north-west end, where it encroaches for about half a mile upon a coal district, and where all the minerals common to that district are found to crop out, but in such shallow strata as to ren- der their workingimpracticable. Carboniferous limestone is wrought in considersd>le quantities in Craigend-hill, on the north-west cor* ner of the parish, accompanied by a small seam of coal, but which does not yield sufficient to bum the limestone. Nodules of clay- ironstone are likewise found here imbedded in clay. Specimens of petrified wood have also been met with in the limestone rock. Small detached pieces of jasper have been picked up in the bed of the Mouss, vnth ochre, and several other mineral productions, which have probs^ly been carried down by the river from the upper part of the country. A detached and water-worn piece of limestone was found near the old bridge upon the Gyde, containing petrified shells resembling on a general view pholades and cockles. Masses of freestone are frequent near the Chapel on the lands of Nemphlar, and near Moussbank, where a quarry was opened some years ago, but which has since been abandoned. Several attempts have been made to discover coal upon the estate of Lee, and upon Lanark moor, hitherto without success. Few places present more evident traces of a deluge than the pa- rish of Lanark* Hills of gravel, beds of clay, banks of sand, and large masses of mud, are heaped together in the wildest confusion. The uneven nature of the surface would naturally produce different currents, which, meeting together, would form, at their junction, beds of gravel; and, in the eddies betwixt them, banks of sand. In more still water, mud or clay would be deposited according as the waters were charged with a greater or less proportion of sand. This arrangement is very conspicuous along the banks of the Mouss and 8 LANARKSHIRE. Clyde, from the Hyndford Bridge on the latter, but more espe- cially at their confluence. Where the waters flowed over a less rugged surface, a sort of hard till has been deposited, which is scarcely pervious to water, and consequently renders the soil more unproductive. Upon examining twenty stones taken promiscuously from a gravel pit, there were found ten of the common red sandstone, five of a hard kind of sandstone, and the other five of various kinds, some of which are not found in masses in any part of the neigh- bourhood. Detached pieces of granite are also found here, which, notwithstanding their hardness, have all the asperities rounded ofi*, proving that they must have rolled from a vast distance ; and in- deed no rocks of the kind are known to exist within many miles of the parish. These rocks are very much prized for curling-stones. Marl has also been found at Bonington and Sunnyside, but has not been dug to any extent Soil. — From what has been said, it is obvious that the soil mu9t vary with the subsoil. Accordingly, along the west end of the pa- rish for nearly a mile in breadth, it is generally composed of a stiff* clay. Along the banks of the rivers it is light and gravelly. In the east it is wet and clayey. Nemphlar and Cartlane moors con- sist of a hard till, and this soil prevails more or less in all high and exposed situations. It is the most stubborn of all kinds of soil, ,and has longest resisted the efforts of the farmer. But in every part of the parish, sometimes even in the same field, all the different varieties of soil are found. In Lanark moor, in the low grounds adjoining the house of Lee, and elsewhere, some inconsiderable beds of moss are met with. Zoology. — The only cattle bred here are horses and cows, all of the best kinds, for draught and dairy, which are sold young. There are no sheep kept but by gentlemen for their private use. The only fish in the Mouss are minnow and trout. In the Clyde, besides these, there are pike, eels, and very rarely perch. The Stonebyres Fall arrests the further ascent of salmon. For- merly two or three individuals in the town of Lanark used to pick up a livelihood by catching and selling fish, but their business has been much injured, and the sport ruined for amateur anglers, by the numbers, who, owing to the dulness of trade, now engage in it, and by the new and deadly tackle which they employ. The common insects are wasps, gad-flies, gnats, and the goose- berry, apple, and cabbage caterpillar. The cabbage caterpillar is destroyed by sprinkling with powdered lime ; the gooseberry ca- LANARK. 9 terpillar, by searching the centre of the bush near the ground at the time when the leaves expand, and picking off such as are found riddled, and full of holes. The apple and pear caterpillars are of two kinds, the one a small green worm, with a black head, that breeds in the blossom-bud and consumes its heart ; the bud does not expand, but soon turns brown, and then the tree is said to be fired. The cobweb, or, as it is called in some places, the cotton caterpillar, is sometimes so very destructive, that the trees in the month of June appear as bare as in January ; if picked off once a-day at the opening of the season they may be destroyed ; as they surround themselves with a round ball of cobweb, they are easily seen, and a few boys would soon clear an orchard. The small black-headed caterpillar is less easily overcome ; it does its mischief before the blossom expands. Mr Sinclair, late gardener at Bonington, discovered a method, by which for many years he effectually saved his trees and bushes from these destructive insects. It is to mix sifted lime in a tub with water, and by means of a gardener's engine to project this with force upon the plants ; in this manner, the moss upon the branches in which insects harbour is destroyed. Botany. — The recesses of Cartlane Craigs present a rich va- riety of plants to the botanist; among which may be named Berheria tndgarisy Pyrola rotundifolia^ Pyrola mirior, ScLxifraga oppositofolia and granulaia^ Prunus padus^ Bird Cherry or Hawk- berry, Spirea salicifoliay Mubus saxatilis^ Ci$tu$ Helianthemum^ Aquilegia vulgaris^ Cardamine impatiens^ Geranium lucidum, Oro^ bus sglvaticusy Vicia sylvatica, Doronicum pardalianches. There are said to be a considerable variety of mosses of rare species above the falls. There are several large plantations in the parish, consisting chiefly of Scotch, larch, and spruce fir. The grounds of Lee, Bo- nington, and Cleghom are ornamented with fine old trees, such as oak, beech, larch, and lime. The banks of the Clyde and Mouss are covered with natural wood of various kinds, viz. oak, ash, hazel, birch, alder, hawkberry, hawthorn, and mountain-ash. Close to the House of Lee are two trees which deserve par- ticular mention. The first is an oak of prodigious size. Accord- ing to a late measurement, it was found to be 60 feet of perpendi- cular height, and 30 in circumference, and to contain 1460 cubic feet of wood. It is called the Pease tree ; is understood to be a relict of the ancient Caledonian forest, and still continues to ve- 10 LANARKSHIRE. getate, although its huge trunk is hollowed to such a degree that ten persons have been crammed into the excavation. The other is a magnificent larch, said to have been one of the firs brought into this country; it is 100 feet in height, and 18 in girth, containing 320 cubic feet of timber. IL — Civil History. Historical Notices. — There does not exist any ancient account of this parish. The town is acknowledged to be of very great an-p tiquity ; but all the information we possess with respect to it in former ages, consists in a few rare and incidental notices scattered throughout the general histories of the country. It is supposed to be the Colaenia of Ptolemy; a Roman road having passed through, or near it, to its castle, on the south-^west side. In subset quent ages, it must have been a place of considerable importance, as may be inferred from the fact recorded by Buchanan, that, in the year 978^ Kenneth II. here held an assembly of the states of the realm. That it was a royal town at a very early period is certain ; for Malcolm IV., in granting a toft in Lanark, speaks of it as in hurgo meo ; and William, the successor of Malcolm, also designates it his burgh. It possesses charters ; the original one erecting it into a royal burgh was granted by Alexander I.; there is also one by Robert L, dated at Linlithgow, the fourth year of his reign ; another without date, by Alexander III. ; a fourth by the same monarch in the thirteenth year of his reign ; there are besides two by James V. ; and a final one, confirmatory of all the rest, given by Charles L, and bearing date 20th February 1632. Chalmers is certainly wrong, when he says in his Caledonia, that ^^ we hear nothing of any royal castle or place of royal resi- dence in this city." On a small artificially-shaped hill, between the town and the river, at the foot of the street called Castle Gate, and still bearing the name of the Castle hill, there stood in former times beyond all doubt a royal castle. Tradition ascribes it to David I. It was the place from which the charter of William the Lion, in favour of the town of Ayr, was dated in 1197. In the treaty ne- gotiated in 1298, respecting the marriage of the niece of King Philip of France, with the son and heir of John Baliol, the Castle or Castelany of Lanark was mortgaged as part of the security for the lady's jointure. We hear of it as being in the thirteenth century in the hands of English soldiers. Besides, there are places in the LANARK. 1 1 neigbbourfaood of the town which, even to thisday, bear the names of Kng-son's Know, King-son's Moss, King-son's Stane, which seems to &Tour the tradition, that it was once a place of royal residence. We have already mentioned the circumstance related by Bu- ehanan, although passed over in silence by Fordun, of Kenneth II. haTing in 978 summoned at Lanark a convention of the estates of the realm ; the first of which there is any record in histor}'. In 1244, Lanark was burnt to the ground ; a fate which befell several other towns at the same period, and to which they were liable from having been then built of wood. In 1297 it was the seene of the first military exploit of Sir William Wallace, who there slew William de Hesliope or Heselrigg, the English she- riff and expelled his soldiers from the town. It seems to have been a garrisoned place in 1310, for we read of its having then surrendered to King Robert Bruce, with Dumfries, Ayr, and the Isle of Bute. Chi the 12th of January 1682, the Covenanters here published a declaration, which Wodrow calls the first essay of the ** societies united into a correspondence.'' This act roused the indignation of the Privy-Council, who fined the town 6000 merks, and issued processes against the freeholders for not preventing it, nor seizing the parties concerned in it. Several persons were exe- cuted at the place about the same time, and among the rest Wil- liam Hervie, who was charged with being at Bothwell Bridge, and publishing Wood's declaration. The grave of this person is still seen in the churchyard of the parish, and is an object of great reve- rence. Lanark formerly enjoyed the privilege of keeping the standard weights of the kingdom. An act of Parliament in 1617 narrates, that of old, the keeping and out-giving of the weights to the burghs and others was committed to this town, and charges it again with the " care of the weights." The old standards are still preserved. They are stamped with a spread eagle, with two heads, the arms of the burgh, although some have supposed this to be a foreign mark. In 1790, they were measured by Professor Robi- son of Edinburgh; and, for the second time, about ten years subse- quently, for the purpose of rectifying those of Edinburgh. It was then discovered that the pound had lost something less than seven grains English Troy, weighing 76 13 instead of 7620 grains, which, in terms of the act of Parliament 1618, it ought to have contained. Dr Ilobison says, that this standard is better ascertained than any other in Europe, except that of Brussels, and its copy at Paris. 12 LANARKSHIRE. At the time of the unioD, a new set of weights was sent from Lon- don to the burgh. They are of very handsome workmanship, and are thus dated, "Primo Maii Anno Dom. 1707— A.R.— An.IUgni vi." But by the act of 1826, these have been superseded by the in- troduction of the imperial standard, and the ancient prerogative of the town disannulled ; every burgh and county having been enjoin- ed to procure and keep a set of standard weights. Eminent Men. — Sir William Wallace was connected with this parish, having resided in the town after his marriage with the co- heiress of Lamington. — James Birnie, secretary to John Cassimir, King of Poland, was the son of Mr William Birnie, who was ap- pointed minister of Lanark in 1597. — Sir William Lockhart of Lee, a great statesman and general under the Protector, and after- wards Lord Justice- Clerk, was bom in the parish, and received the first rudiments of education at the school of Lanark. — The estate of Jerviswood was the family property of Robert Baillie the martyr. In the mansion-house, which is now fallen into decay, he found con- cealment from the pursuit of his enemies, and is said to have owed nis life upon one occasion, to a spider, which spun its web over the door of the oven in which he was lurking, thus averting the sus- picions of the soldiers. — Lithgow, the traveller, was born in this parish, and lies buried in the churchyard ; but the site of his grave is unknown. — Dr William Smellie, the celebrated accoucheur; and the learned and ingenious General Roy, were both educated at Lanark school, to which the former left as a memorial his va- luable library, with L. 200 to build a room for its accommodation. — Robert Macqueen, Lord Justice- Clerk for Scotland, was born in the parish, and educated at the^ schools of Lanark. — Sir John Lockhart Ross, so renowned in the naval chronicles of Great Britain, as captain of the Tartar, although bom in the adjacent parish of Carstairs, acquired by his marriage with the late Lady Ross Baillie, the beautiful property of Bonington in Lanark parish, where he built the present mansion-house, and occasionally resided. — Among other celebrated men, we must not omit the excellent and pious Mr David Dale, founder of the village and manufactory- of New-Lanark; nor his son-in-law, Robert Owen, who here exco- gitated and made an abortive attempt to reduce to practice, his wild theories for the renovation of society. Land-owners. — The principal land-owners are Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart of Lee ; Lady Mary Ross of Boning- ton ; Mrs Elliot Lockhart of Cleghorn ; George Baillie, Esq. of LANARK. 13 Jerviswood; Thomas Young Howison, Esq. of Hyndford; the Misses Carmichael of Smyllum Park ; Walker and Company of New Lanark ; Sir Richard Honyman of Huntly Hill ; Archibald Nesbit, Esq. of Carfin ; Alexander Gillespie, Esq. of Sunnyside. Besides these, there are 65 smaller heritors in the out-parish, and 100 in the in-parish, possessing burgh lands. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers consist of 14 vo- lumes ; 7 of births, and 7 of marriages. The date of the earliest entry is 1647. The session records reach no farther back than 1699. Antiquities. — The Castle- Hill, which we have already mention- ed as a small mount in the immediate vicinity of the town, towards the river, is supposed to have been originally a Roman castellum ; and General Roy mentions a fine silver Faustina as having been found here. But at present there is scarcely left a single vestige either of the ancient Roman work, or of the royal castle, which in later times occupied its site. It has been converted into a bowl- ing-green. There are remains of two Roman camps in the neighbour- hood of Lanark. The most considerable is not far from Cleg- horn-house, and was thought by Greneral Roy to have been the work of Agricola. It measures 600 yards in length, and 420 iii breadth, and at the south-west angle has a small post or redoubt. The other is situated upon the Lanark moor, on the opposite side of the MoiLSs, and is within a mile of one in the adjoining parish of Carstairs, apparently of later construction, and of which the vestiges are much more distinct Through this passed the great Roman road from Carlisle to the wall of Antoninus, leaving the camp at Cleghom upon the right. About half a mile below Lanark, upon an elevated situation on the banks of the Mouss, stands the picturesque remnant of a lofty tower, of which little or nothing is known. The eminence is called Castle Hill, and from it the Lockharts of Cambusnethan take their title. On the very brink of Cartlane Craigs, and overhanging a pre- cipice of above 200 feet of perpendicular height, are to be seen the vestiges of an old stronghold, called by some the Castle of the Quaw, probably from the Gaelic cuas or cave. Neither history nor tradition has preserved any record of what this was, or of the date of its erection. And it is only remarkable for certain subter- raneous caves or arched ways of rather a singular description, which have probably given the place its name. One of them was ex- 14 LANARKSHIRE. plored by Mr Lookhart, who has given a description of it in the former Statistical Account. He there ai^es, from the absence of all traces of lime, that it must have been of a date anterior to the in- troduction of the use of mortar by the Romans. Another person to whom it was shown was of a different opinion, and says, that the arch appeared to him more like the work of some cow-herd boy than anything else. Old Church. — About a quarter of a mile to the south-east of the town, and seen from all the country around, rise the beautiful ruins of the old parish church. There still remain traces to show that it must have been a building of great elegance. Six fine Gothic arches, supporting a wall which seems to have separated the body of the church from a side aisle, along its whole length, are at pre- sent standing. It is altogether unknown by whom, and at what exact period this fabric was erected ; but Chalmers, in his Cale- donia, has collected some interesting particulars with respect to it which had previously fallen into oblivion. It appears to have been in existence at the beginning of the twelfth eentury, before the re-establishment of the bishoprick of Glasgow by Prince David, and was dedicated to Kentigem, the patron saint of that city, and founder of the episcopate. In 1150, David L granted it, with its tithes and pertinents, to the monastery of Dryborough, — a grant which subsequent monarchs successively confirmed, and which was afterwards extended to a chapel at Cleghorn. In 1297, Blind Harry alludes to it, making his hero pass << On from the kirk that was without the town.** The canons of Dryborough continued in possession of it, drew the revenues, and served the cure by establishing a vicarage until the period of the Reformation. In 1689-90, the presbytery passed a resolution " that the kirk of Lanerk should be removed from the auld place to a situation within the town." — " Notwithstanding of this resolution," says Chalmers, ^< the kirk still remains in the old place, and continued to be the parish church until 1777, when a new one was built in the middle of the town." Long before this period, however, it had fallen into a ruinous state, and had ceas- ed to be used for public worship. The inhabitants of the town attended Divine service in the chapel of St Nicholas, which de- volved to the burgh at the Reformation, and in which the lofts and galleries were set apart for the magistrates and corporations. It seems impossible to ascertain at what precise period the old church was abandoned as a place of public worship. In former 4 LANARK. 15 times it seems to have had various altars ; one consecrated to the holy cross, was styled the Ruid Altar, and another to the Virgin, Our Lady's Altar. To the chaplain who served the latter, James IV, granted in mortmain a tenement in Lanark, which had fallen to him by royal right The charter is thus noted in the general index of charters in the Register office. ^^ Willielmo Clerkson, capellano moderno ad altare gloriosissimce Virginis Mariae, infra ecclesiam parochialem de Lanark," dated Lanark, 16th October 1500. lo' the reign of Robert IIL John Simpson, a burgess of the town, founded and endowed a chaplainary in this church. The ground around it continues as of old to be the parish cemetery. For a num- ber of years it was abandoned to shameful neglect ; and the hands of mischievous boys co-operated with time in accelerating the de- struction of the Venerable ruin. Its appearance has also suffered very materially by the erection of an ugly square tower in the centre, for the accommodation of grave«watchers. But better feeUngs have lately prevailed. The churchyard has been enclosed with a wall; and a small fund was raised for the purpose of using means to prevent the total dilapidation of the ancient pile. Considera- ble repairs were made, which it is hoped will uphold it a century or two longer to grace the spot where so many generations of La- narkers repose. * Before the Reformation there were various chapels in this pa- rish, of which, however, there remain at the present day scarcely any other memorial than the tradition of their existence, and the names which they have given to the spots at or near which they were situated, f * If Uie dead were conscious of what takes place above them, the ashes of at least one of the sleepers in this churchyard must have been disturbed by the profiuiations which used to take pbuse in iL I allude to Mr William Bimie* of whom it is said in Nesbit*s Heraldry, that when of age, and after three years study abroad* he was, upon the fiBth of Beoember 1507, presented by King James VI. to the parish of Lanark. An interesting reprint of an old and learned work of this person, entitled ** The Blame of Kirk Burial, tending to persuade to Cemeterial Cirilitie," has late- ly been made by William TumbuU, Esq. advocate. The author, in quaint but powerful language, inveighs against the practice of burying in the area of churches, but delivers many admirable sentiments on the honour due to the resting-places of the dead. It would uppear that in hia day the ccelesiastioal profession required more various and extensive accomplishments than are now deemed necessary, or even be- coming in clergymen. For it is said of Mr Birnie, '* that he not only learnedly preached the gospel in this parish* but, because of the several quarrels and feuds amongst the gentlemen, was obliged many times, as he well could, to make use of his sword." •f- Some notices respecting the chapds of St Nicholas, St Leonards, and the cha- pels at Cleghorn and East Nemphlar, will be found in the original MS. 16 LANARKSHIRE. In the mansion-house at Bonington lare preserved a few inte- resting relics of Sir William Wallace, of whose family the Rosses claim to be the representatives in the female line. These were brought from the old castle of Lamington* A portrait there shows the chieftain in look and features much as he is repre- sented in the conunon pictures. There is also a broad oakeu seat, which has borne from time immemorial the name of Wallace's Chair. The four large posts which compose its frame-work, and of which the two at the back are considerably higher than those in front, are the only parts which }iave any claim to antiquity, and certainly are sufficiently rude for the fourteenth century. All the rest together, with the bear skin with which it has been covered, are modem additions. A third object is a small oaken cup, called Wallace's quaigh, evidently of very great antiquity. * Lee-penny. — The most celebrated antiquity, however, which we have to mention is the Lee-penny. This is a small triangular stone, of what kind, a lapidary, to whom it was shown, confessed himself unable to determine. In size, it is about half an inch on each side, and is set in a piece of silver coin, which, from the traces of a cross still discernible, is supposed to be a shilling of Edward the First. The traditional history of this gem is as follows : — King Robert Bruce had ordered, that after his death his heart should be carried to the Holy Land, and one of those who joined the expedition, ap- pointed to carry the royal wish into effect, was Sir Simon Lockard of Lee. To defray his expenses, he borrowed a sum of money from Sir William de Lindsay, prior of Ayre, to whom he granted a bond of annuity for L. 10 upon his estate of Lee. This bond, bearing date ^323, is still preserved amongst the family papers. As a memorial of his services upon this occasion, the family name of Locard was changed into Lock-heart or Lockhart, and he ob- Among the minor antiquities may be mentioned the church bell. It was removed from the old to the present parish church, and has been several times refbunded. It bears the date of these. The first is so early as 1110 ; the second 1659 ; and the last 1740. * Its history is thus recorded in verse upon the silver hoop which encircles the edge :— At Torwood I was cut from that known tree. Where Wallace from warres toyls took sanctarie. For Mars's sonnes I'm only now made fitt. When with the sonnes of Bacchus they shall sitt. Sir Walter Scott, in the Tales of a Grandfather, mentions his having forty years ago examined the roots of the oak |iere alluded to, which at that time were all that remain- ed of it« LANARK. 17 tained for arms a heart within a lock, with the motto, Corda serata pando. Sir Simon is said in this journey to have taken prisoner a Saracen chief, for whose Uberty his lady offered a large sum of money. In countinfif it out, she happened to drop the gem from her purse, and showed such eagerness in recovering it as drew the ioiight's attention, and raised his curiosity to learn what it was« Being told of its remarkable virtues, he refused to liberate the husband, unless it were added to the ransom. With this demand the lady unwillingly complied, and thus the talisman came into the possession of the family with whom it has ever since remained. Formerly it bore a very high and extensive celebrity for extraor- dinary medicinal properties. Water in which it had been but dipt was supposed to be an effectual remedy for all diseases of cattle, and has been sent for as far as the northern counties of England. It was also considered to be a specific against hydrophobia. The most remarkable instance of its efficacy in that distemper was the cure of a Lady Baird of Saughton-hall, near Edinburgh, who, by using draughts and baths of it, recovered from the bite of a mad dog, after, it is said, hydrophobia had actually begun. When the plague was last at Newcastle the inhabitants borrowed the Lee- penny, giving a large sum in trust for the loan, and so convinced were they of its good effects, that they were willing to forfeit the deposit and retain possession.* • Variuus, of course, are the opinions held as to whether these virtues arc real or imaginary, natural or miraculous. The following authority uj>on the nulyect is pes- haps curious enough to deserve a place :-^ *' Copy of an Act of the Synode and Assembly apud Glasgow the 2jth of October, Synode Session 2d. *' Quhilk daye aniongest the referies of the Brethcrn of the ministric o( Lanark, it va j In 1796 - 4761 ^ T«kcn by Mr Meiixiet. In 1800 . . . 5103) In 1811 - . - . 0067 In 1821 .... 75; t/ital, 767'2. TW zx'SiZjrr^ kzi'. i/irfr^x^ of independent fortune in the [#amh uuuiL i: I*X Titer* fcr»r 5^- ^•rr^r^ »iiO p«:*s^e«f land of the yearly %aiue '/f l54' fisr -TiTiiTCia- — >=sjit-? the buri^ of Lanark, and tl*e ^>w>- i:*- n -UK jamii.. - . - , J >4r/ TiiMit" ezxujii*>«c iL tniQfi:.. cia£.ufaie*.uf««- or icv^Oi*:?!!^. J ;y7 ^ — ■ * * ^- nit '. cmttuit if 'Jt^. f*:kt^^ — VfUltLlfeit - - •:r-t'"%**c ai- & icuiitao ir lyir *-"' -*^'~ '■^^' ^ .... -,^ .»-«^>. r 'r- 20 LANARKSUIRE. and sergeants. The great and little palm branches of the Salix caprcBa in flower, and decked with a profusion of daffodils, were carried behind him. A handsome embroidered flag, the gift of a lady in the town to the boys, was used on this festival. The day concluded with a ball. On the Lanemar or Landmark-day, there are processions to in- spect the marches of the town lands. As a method of impressing the boundaries upon the memory, all persons who attend for the first time are ducked in the river Mouss, in the channel of which one of the march-stones is placed : and horse and foot races take place upon the moor. It is a day of great festivity. The people are, upon the whole, cleanly in their habits. But the late severe depression in the weaving trade has reduced great num- bers to such a state of destitution as calls for the liveliest sympathy. They not only want decent clothing, but can hardly procure sufficient food. At the cotton-works the people are well dressed, and live in general very comfortably. In all parts of the parish, oat-meal porridge for breakfast, potatoes with herrings for dinner, and again porridge or potatoes for supper, form the usual diet of the labour- ing-classes. Tea is used whenever it can be afforded. Poaching prevails to a considerable extent, with its usual bad effects. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rui^al Economy, — As much of the land in the parish, both arable, waste, and in wood, has never been measured, it is only by approximation that the following results have been obtained : Arable ncres, Scotch statute measure, GoOO Uncultivated, - - 1200 Town common, - - 600 Under wood, - - - GOO Planted as orchards, - _ ,*)<> Of late years there has been very little planting in this parish, and that little confined to the estates of Lee and Cleghorn. An intelligent nurseryman in the place says, that the forest trees plant- ed in the whole of the upper ward of Lanarkshire amount to 700,000 and 900,000 annually for the last ten years. These have been in the proportion of two parts of larch to one of spruce and Scotch fir. The larch is found to grow best upon the hi^h lands, and is of more value to the planter, and hence is now in far greater demand than about twenty-five years ago. Little oak, ash, elm, or hard-wood, of any kind is planted, except in the more shel- LANARK. 21 tered situations, as it is found they seldom come to perfection on the light heathy lands. Renty Prices^ Wages^ S^c. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1, ds. per Scotch statute acre ; the average price of a cow's grazing on good land, L. 4; on inferior, L. 1, 10s. ; that of an ox varies from L. 3 to L. 3, 10s. The common labourer's wages is 9s. per week; Women get Is. per day. Breeds of Live Stock. — There are no store-farms in the parish. The cattle are all of the Ayrshire breed, and, owing to the pre- miums given by the agricultural societies, they are greatly improved. Husbandry. — A great part of the arable land is said to be unfit for green crop. After four or five years pasture, it is top-dressed and two crops of oats taken, with the last of which grass seeds are sown. It is then again pastured for four or five years. About a fourth part of it, however, is of a very superior description. It is cultivated with a rotation of fouf years — 1st, oats ; 2d, green crop, consisting of potatoes, turnips, or beans; 3d, wheat or barley; 4th, hay. It is then pastured one or two years, but in many cases not at alL The land of the orchards is generally cropped in a simi- lar manner, but is dug instead of being ploughed ; and, instead of its being pastured, a hay crop is taken. A good deal has been done in the way of irrigation, principally at Cleghorn, and likewise in draining at the joint expense of land- lord and tenant. The leases being for nineteen years are favourable to the occu- pier, and the rents are in general well paid. The farms are all small, and the buildings and enclosures indifierent Quarry. — There is only one lime quarry in the parish, which is wrought partly by open cast, and partly by mining. It produces 7000 bolls annually, and has a seam of coal eighteen inches thick, capable of burning about one-third part of the lime. Produce. — As various courses of cropping are adopted, and the land is of very unequal quality, the average value of the gross produce can only be given in a very vague approximation : Grain, - I.. 15»500 Green crop, . 2,276 Hay, - - 1,625 Pasture, - - 3,287 Orchards," - - 300 PlantatioiiB, - . 600 Liinc, - - 700 L. 24287 • Fifteen vears ago, the orchards would have brought double the sum j but of Inte, 22 LANARKSHIRE. Manufactures. — Cottan-spinninff. — The principal manufacture in the parish is cotton-spinning at New Lanark. The establish- ment formerly acquired very extensive notoriety, under the super- intendence of Mr Robert Owen, son-in-law of David Dale, the original founder. But in 1827, that gentleman ceased to have any interest in the business, which has since been carried on under the firm of Walker and Company. There are 1110 persons employed in this manufacture, of whom about 60 are mechanics and labourers. Children are not admitted into the factory under ten years of age. The hours of work are eleven and a quarter daily throughout the year, whatever be the state of trade. The people are very comfortably supported, — are in general healthy, — and, in comparison with other establishments of the kind, remarkably decent in behaviour. Weaving, — Another extensive branch of manufacture in the parish is weaving, in which 873 persons are engaged ; 702 in the town, and 171 in the country. This trade is at the very lowest ebb, and scarcely yields the means of support to those who are employed in it. There are a few of the weavers who, being in the prime of life, and endowed with superior strength and skill, can gain 8s. a-week ; but to do this, they must sit from fourteen to sixteen hours a-day, and the exertion soon ruins the health of the most robust. The common wages scarcely average 6s. per week, from which a drawback must be made of Is. 3d. ; lOd. for loom-rent, 3d. for light, and 2d. for carriage of the web. Men advanced in life, dispirited by the remembrance of better times, may make about 3s. 6d. The only addition to this miserable pit- tance is what their wives can earn by winding the waft upon pirns, and which varies from 6d. to Is. 3d. per week.* When thre^ or four in one family are employed, and the joint gains are under the management of a thrifty wife, they are able to make a tolerable shift. But nothing can exceed the misery of those who have themselves and a family to support by their single- handed industry. The misery they have suffered has had the un- happy but too common effect of plunging some of them into care- less and dissipated habits ; but the majority are well behaved and intelligent men, and bear their hardships with commendable pa- thc value of fruit has been gradually falling, partly owing to the larger quantities produced, and partly to its being brought from other districts to Glasgow by means of steam-vessels, with greater safety and expedition than formerly. * Since the above was written, the condition of the weavers has been considerably improved,— in consequence of the cheapness of provisions, a greater supply of work, and a hmall advance on the p rice of the yard. LANARK. 23 tieuce. The following fact will illustrate the melancholy depres- sion of this branch of industry. On Martinmas fair day 1812, a general strike took place, and continued for nine weeks, because a certain description of work, 1200 policuts, fell from 8d. to 6d. per yard. For the last three years, the same description of work has been, upon an average, at l^d. Accustomed at the former pe- riod to better days, the weaver believed that 6d..was too low a rate to afford him a livelihood, and it is only because it came upon them gradually that they have been able to survive the present depres- sion. Forced by the pressure of immediate want, they are accus- tomed to put their children of both sexes upon the loom at the early age of nine or twelve, by which means their numbers are con- tinually augmenting, and the evil is increased. Shoemaking^ Sfc. — There are in the parish 96 shoemakers. This trade is at present in as flourishing a condition as was ever known. The weekly wages which a tradesman actually gains average 8s. ; but, with steadiness and skill, he may easily increase them to ]2s. Boots and shoes for foreign export are occasionally made here. The tailors are 24 in number, and their wage is about 9s. per weeL There are 51 wrights and 34 masons, who gain about 14s. per week. Occasionally more are required than live in the place, but they are easily procured from the adjoining parishes. Build- ing is rather expensive, in consequence of the distant carriage of the materials. There are in the parish 13 smiths, 14 bakers, 8 butchers, 45 young females employed in mantua-making, 120 in embroidering gymp lace. Three brewers carry on business to a considerable extent in the town. There are three mills, two of which are for grinding flour. V. — Parochial Economv. Town and Villages. — The town of Lanark stands in nearly the i^entre of the parish. It is under the government of magistrates, who employ five or six town-ofiicers. A large body of constables can likewise be called out when occasion requires. Here the prin- cipal business transactions of the surrounding district are carried on. There are markets on Tuesday and Saturday ; the former in general is very numerously attended. In Lanark, as the county town, the Sheriff and Justice of Peace courts are held, and the elec- tion of the member of Parliament for the county takes place. New Lanark is a large and handsome village, lying on the south- west from the town. It stands low upon the river side, and is com- 24 LANARKSHIIIE. pletely surrounded by steep and beautifully wooded hills. It owes its existence to David Dale, who built the first mill in 1784. It has always been and still continues a remarkably thriving manufactory. There are, besides, three considerable hamlets, — Cartland in the north-west, Nemphlar in the west, and Hyndford Bridge-end in the south-east quarter of the parish. Means of Communication. — The parish enjoys the most ample means of communication. There is a post-office ; fifteen miles of turnpike road traverse the parish in different directions. In the fine season, a stage-coach goes to and from Edinburgh every lawful day ; in winter, three times a-week. There is also a stage coach to Glasgow, in summer twice, and in winter once a-day, — besides a number of carriers. There are two bridges over the Clyde. The old bridge, about a mile below the town, is of a very indifferent description. It w^as built about the middle of the seventeenth century, at an expense of L. 56, lis, 7d., which was raised by private contributions and parochial collections.* The New or Hyndford Bridge, a little more than two miles from the town, is remarkable for its elegance. Over the Mouss, there are no fewer than five bridges, at Cleghorn, at Lockhartford, at Cartlane Craigs, and two at Mouss Mill. The Cartlane bridge was built in 1822, from a design of Mr Telford, engineer, and is one of the most beautiful in the country. The height from the bed of the river to the parapet is 125 feet, and to the spring of the arch 84. It has three arches of 52 feet span each. One of the bridges at Mouss Mill is very ancient and curious ; it has a semicircular arch. When the new one was built, this was condemned to be demolished, but, being an object of considerable beauty, it was purchased for L. 50, and preserved by Michael Lin- ning, Esq. and is a great ornament to his beautiful little property in the vicinity. Ecclesiastical State — Patronage of the Parish. — The patronage • The following extract from the presbjrtery records connected with this bridge is curious. ** March 29th 1649 It is ordained the act of Parliament which is granted in favour of the town of Lanark for building a bridge at Clydesholm, — a work of great necessity and public concernment, be presented to the synod that we may have the help and advice of the synod for the furtherance of the work. April I9th 1649. — The brethren, after their return from the synod, report to the baillies of Lanark being then present, law willing, all the brethren of the synod were to further the work of building a bridge at Clydesholm by a contribution of their several parishes, ^nd desires the baillies not to neglect speedily to go on with the work, which the presby- tery will further all they can." LANAIIK. 25 IS in the hands of the Crown ; but from the time of Charles II. it had been claimed by the family of Lee. The Laird of Lee, in 1748, granted a presentation in favour of the Rev. Robert Dick, one of the most pious and learned ministers ever belonging to the church of Scotland, the king presenting at the same time the Rev. James Gray. The people, unjustly prejudiced against the former presentee, tumultuously opposed his induction, for which several of them were tried. The civil question of right was at that time brought before the Court of Session, and decided in favour of the Laird of Lee ; but, upon an appeal to the House of Lords, this decision was reversed, and the Crown has since exercised the pa- tronage. The parish church is situated in the middle of the town, and is in so far convenient for the large majority of the population, al- though^ a few families residing at the extremities of the parish may be between four and five miles distant from it. It was built in 1774. For many years back it had been in a very dilapidated state. During last autumn, however, it underwent considerable repairs, by which it has been greatly improved.* Elegant silver communion cups were anciently presented to the church by the Laird of Lee. Lady Ross Baillie likewise present- ed the church with a handsome baptismal bason, a clock, and a pair of stoves, and in other ways also contributed to its comfort By the original contract, the church should have been seated to accommodate 2300 persons. But such a number would scarcely find room. There are about 100 free sittings, and these might easily be increased, if necessary, by benches along the passages. The manse was built in 1757. It received repairs and an addi- tion in 1811, and is now in a tolerably comfortable state. * The following is a list of the ministers of Lanark since the Reformation : David Cuningham about 1562 John Lererance, 1567 James Raitt, - 1574 William Birnie from 1597 to about 1615 William Livingstone 1614 .— 1641 Robert Birnie - 1643 1691 In the Second Charge. James Kirkton - 1655 1657 John Bannatyne - 1688 1707 John Orr - - 1708 1748 Robert Dick - 1750 175* James Gray - 1755 1793 William Menzii's - 1793 Ihc presbytery records commence in 1 620. 26 LANARKSHIRE. The glebe is four acres in extent, and is worth about L. 16 per annum. The amount of the stipend is 19 chalders, half barley, half meal, with L.20 for communion elements. There is no chapel of ease attached to the Established church, although one is much needed, especially at New Lanark. The dissenters have three places of worship in the town,— one Relief, the others belonging to the Burghers. One of the dissent- ing clergymen is promised L. 120, another L.100, and the third L. 60 per annum. As many families and persons frequent the Established church as can procure seats ; and here and at the Relief Chapel divine service is well attended. The average number of communicants at the Established church is ] 100. Reliffious Societies, — There is a Bible society and a ladies' Bible association in the parish. Previously to 1827, they were accus- tomed to send their funds to the British and Foreign Bible Society, •But since that period they have deemed it more proper to employ them otherwise ; and to diflTerent institutions and societies for the spread of the gospel, they have contributed the following sums : — In 1827, L.100; in 1828, L.70; in 1829, L.80; in 1830, L.40; in 1831, L.20; in 1832, L.20. There is likewise a missionary society ; but neither this nor any other institution of the kind is now prospering as it ought, and what they have been able to effect has been in consequence of handsome legacies left them by a benevolent lady. Formerly, the private subscriptions and collections at the church door for religious and charitable purposes were wont to be liberal, but of late years they have unhappily very much decreased. Edticatian, — The number of schools in the parish is 12, none of which is parochial. One is endowed, and one is supported by a society. Tlie grammar-school once enjoyed high celebrity as a seminary of education. The rector's salary amounts to L. 40; that of the assist- ant is L. 20. The wages are 4s. per quarter for Latin ; and 2s. 6d. for English, writing and arithmetic 1 s. more. Connected with this school there are twenty-eight bursaries ; nine of them were endowed in 1648 by Mr John Carmichael, commissary of Lanark, who mort- gaged the lands of Batiesmains for the purpose. The rest were endowed by one of the Earls of Hyndford, by the family of Maulds- lie, and by a former chamberlain of the name of Thomson. The patronage of these bursaries is in the hands of the magistrates. LANARK. 27 They are of different value, and, after the payment of the school fees, may leave about L. 2 or L.d over, for the support of each of the boys who enjoy them. This school possesses a library, which we have already noticed as having been left to it by Dr William Smellie; but, as the books are principally medical, it is of little use. Some years ago a benevolent lady of the name of Wilson en- dowed a free school in the town of Lanark for the instruction of fifty poor children. The sum mortgaged was L. 1200. The subscription school has long been well managed, and is a blessing to the place. The teachers of the Nemphlar and Cartlane schools have each an allowance of L. 5 yearly from the heritors. At New Lanark there is a day-school, frequented by about 500 children, who re- ceive instruction in the ordinary branches, more suitable to their rank of life than the ornamental accomplishments to which, under a former management, an exclusive attention had been paid. In general, the people are alive to the benefits of education. There is no part of the parish so distant as to be out of the reach of a school, and no additional schools are required. Libraries. — There is a subscription library on a small scale, which is tolerably flourishing. There are also two circulating libraries in the town. Several efforts have been made to set a week- ly periodical agoing, but hitherto without success. A reading-room was attempted some years ago, but failed. Benevolent Societies. — There is at Lanark a brotherly society, to which about 100 persons subscribe. Its object is the relief of members when in distress, and at the present moment five are re- ceiving assistance from it. It would probably have declined like other institutions of the kind in this place, but the funds were laid out in the purchase of three roods of land in the vicinity of the town, which is advantageously feued, and to this it owes its continuance. There were once many more such societies; but two or three years ago a groundless alarm, that Government meant to seize upon their funds, produced their immediate dissolution. At New Lanark, a sick society for the same benevolent object is in existence. The maximum contribution is dd. weekly ; rate of aliment when sick, 7s. 6d. ; when recovering, 5s. ; superan- nuated, 38. Besides these there are 3 funeral societies in the parish, 1 in Lanark, and 2 in New Lanark. On the death of a member or his wife, the family receives L. 4, and L. 2 on the death 28 LANARKSHIRE. of a child. The sum is gathered as occasion requires, the socie- ties accumulating no funds. There is a society in Lanark for the relief of sick, aged, and indigent females. It is supported by subscriptions, &c. amount- ing to about L. 40 annually, and has proved of signal benefit, in distributing pecuniary relief, coals, and clothing. This society is well conducted, and the objects carefully selected by the re- spectable females of Lanark. Savings Bank. — In 1815, a savings bank was instituted, in which, for each of the last three years, there has been invested about L. 200 ; withdrawn L. 342. The deposits are all made by the working-classes, chiefly maid-servants. Tliere is a sum amounting to L. 1400 in the bank belonging to about 410 depositors. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of the poor amounts in the in^parish to 71, in the out-parish to 36. In virtue of a mu- tual agreement made seventy-five years ago between the two classes of heritors, each to support their own poor, the management of the former is in the hands of the kirk-session and in-town heritors, while that of the latter is in the hands of the kirk-session and out- heritors. Paupers in the burgh are paid from Is. to lOs^per month, according to circumstances ; country paupers on an average, ds. per month. The contributions at the church door now amount annually to no more than L. 37. Of this, L. 8 are, by agreement, paid to the landward heritors for the support of their poor. What remains after that and the other drawbacks, together with an annual assess- ment of L. 230, goes to maintain the poor of the in-parish ; besides L. 70, the annual rent of the hospital lands, is distributed by the magistrates among the poor of the burgh, and L. 40 by the cor- poration of shoemakers to the poor belonging to them. The landward paupers are maintained by the L. 8 received out of the church collections, and an assessment amounting to L. 100 annually, which has been levied for a period of seventy-five years, without undergoing any considerable increase. Mrs Wilson mortified a sum which yields about L. 32 per annum, for the aid of indigent persons not upon the poor's roll ; and for the same class of persons, the late Mr Howison of Hyndford, left L. 700, which is to be invested in land, and the produce annually distributed. Formerly it was considered disgraceful to receive pa- rochial relief, but for some years past, this honourable feeling has been gradually wearing away. LANARK. 29 Jail. — There is a jail in the town, under the government of the magistrates. But it has, for a long course of years, been in so in- secure a condition, that none have staid in it but such as were prisoners de bonne volante. An act of Parliament, however, has been obtained for the erection of County Buildings at Lanark, including a Prison for the Upper Ward ; and the foundation stone was laid on 21st March 1834. Fairs. — Seven fairs are held at Lanark every year. The one on the last Wednesday of May, old style, is for black cattle ; that on the last Wednesday of July for lambs and horses ; and the one in October, on the Friday after the Falkirk tryst, is for horses and black-cattle. Inns. — There are 53 persons licensed to keep inns in the parish. Of these, however, 14 are merely spirit-dealers, and do not sell any kind of liquors but in the way of retail over the counter. The Clydesdale Hotel in this town is one of the handsomest and best kept inns in Scotland. A few years ago, the shareholders expend- ed L. 2400 in adding to it an elegant assembly room. FueL — Fuel is excellent and cheap. Coal is brought from the adjoining parishes, some of it six, and the rest nine miles distance, and is laid down in the town at an expense of from 4d to 4^d per cwt. A few peats are also cast in the adjoining moor. April 1834. PARISH OF LESMAHAGO, PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES HAMILTON, D.D.) j^j^jg^j.j>g» THE REV. JOHN WILSON, A. M. f I. — Topography and Natural History. • Name Boundaries^ Sfc, — This parish is supposed to derive its name from Les or iw, signifying in Gaelic, a green or garden^ and Machute, the tutelar saint of the place, who is said to have settled here in the sixth century. A monastery was founded in this parish by David L in 1140. It was dependent on the abbey of Kelso ; and hence the village which collected round it received the name of Abbey Green, which it still retains. This village is nearly in the centre of the parish, and about twenty-two miles from Glasgow, upon which the inhabitants of this and other villages in the parish depend for employment as weavers. The parish may be described as nearly square, and contains sixty-seven square miles, or 34,000 acres. It is bounded on the east by the parishes of Lanark and Carmichael ; on the south by Douglas, and Muirkirk; on the west by Strathaven and Stone- house ; and on the north by Dalserf and Carluke. Topographical Appearances, — The average elevation of more than three-fourths of the parish is probably about 500 feet above the sea; — the remainder, lying upon the west and south-west side, rises into considerable hills, dividing the counties of Lanark and Ayr, some of which may be supposed to be 1200 feet high. They afford an excellent sheep-pasture. On the south side of the parish there is a fissure in the rocks known by the name of Wallace's Cave ; if ever that hero inhabited it, his lodging could not be of the most comfortable kind. Meteorology. — The elevated situation of the parish renders the temperature of the atmosphere very variable ; and, not unfrequent- ly, the fruit-trees, after promising an abundant crop, have had • 'lliis Account has been drawn up by Andrew Smith, Esq. of Fauldhouse. LESMAHAGO. 31 their blossoms blighted by a few chilly nights in May. In rainy weather, the hills upon the west seem to attract the clouds, and, consequently, more rain falls there than in the lower parts of the parish ; but even there, want of moisture is not generally com- plained of. The prevailing winds may be said to be from the westward, — every tree or hedge that is exposed leaning from that, and making their most vigorous shoots in an opposite direction. Upon the whole, however, the climate may be said to be salubrious, and instances of longevity are numerous. Hydrography. — This parish abounds in springs of excellent wa- ter ; though none of a medicinal quality have been yet discovered. These springs are the parents of several streams, capable of driv- ing machinery. The Poniel water, which rises in the south-west of the parish, divides it from the parish of Douglas, and after a course of seven or eight miles in an easterly direction, joins the Douglas water about three miles from its junction with the Clyde ; for which three miles the united stream becomes the boundary of the parish. The Logan, Nethan, and also the Kype water rise in the high grounds on the west The banks of the Nethan are generally clothed with coppice, and adorned with gentlemen's houses, or neat farm-steadings. The Kype, so far as it divides this parish from Avondale or Strathaven, is a moorland stream, — naked and unadorned on its banks, but capable of working mischief on the lower grounds, when thunder storms have passed along the hills. In consequence of these grounds being much drained within these few years, the water descends more rapidly than formerly, and in greater quantities, de- stroying bridges and injuring the small haughs or holms. There are some other small streams that run a few miles in the parish, but all are tributary to the above, with the exception of the Can- nar, which, after a course of a few miles, joins the Avon in the parish of Stonehouse. As all these streams ultimately join the Clyde, where it is from three to four hundred feet above the sea, their courses are pretty rapid. Geology. — This parish lies nearly on the south side of the great coal field which crosses our island through Fife, Ayrshire, and the intermediate counties. Nevertheless, the strata are so deranged by numerous dikes or fissures, that, where coals are wrought, the direction and inclination of the strata vary so materially, as to set hopes and expectations at defiance. In several of the coal and 32 LANARKSHIRE. lime-works, the dip is as one in six ; while at Auchenheath, where, as well as in two other places in this parish, a fine kind of cannel coal is wrought, supplying Glasgow and other places with gas, the inclination is only one to twelve, or thirteen. Coal of the same quality has (we believe) been nowhere found in Scotland ; and even here, and in a small corner of the parish of Carluke, to which it extends, the thickness of the strata varies from ten to twenty-one inches ; it is sold for about 8s. per ton upon the coal-hill, and affords employment to about forty pickmen in this parish. Pit- coal is also plentiful in Lesmahago. The rocks that appear are either whin, or trap sandstone, or limestone ; in some places the sandstone inclines to slate, but no true roofing-slate has been discovered in this parish. Limestone has been wrought, and still is wrought in seven or eight different places in the parish. Though sold at a pretty fair price, affording the landlord about one-sixth of the sale price, it has given a stimu- lus to improvement, particularly of waste lands. In these lime- stone workings, petrified shells are very commonly found ; and sometimes the fossil remains of terrestrial animals. Ironstone may be seen in many of the banks, both in balls and in regular strata, but not in such quantities, nor lying so regularly, as to warrant the erection of a furnace. Lead has frequently been sought in the high grounds, on the south-west of the parish, but hitherto with- out success ; nor have simple minerals been found in the rocks, or beds of rivers, to any extent. From the rapid current of the streams, little alluvial soil is found in the parish ; it may therefore be said to consist chiefly of a yel- low clay, to a small extent resting on a substratum of white sand- stone ; of a light friable soil, resting on whinstone ; of a Fandy gravelly soil, from decomposed sandstone, and of moss. The se- cond of these is unquestionably the best ; but both that and the first, when properly managed, produce better and more certain crops than the other two. II. — Civil History. A short account of this parish was written by the Ilev. Mr Whyte of Libbcrton, and published in the Edinburgh Magazine about sixtv vears ago. Historical Notices, — There arc no historical events of import- nnce coiinertod witii Lesmahago, except the burning by the bro- LESMAHAGO. 33 ther of Edward III. of the abbey, and its destruction a second time by fire, kindled by thd zeal of the old reformers. This religi- ous spirit appears to have here broken forth on more occasions ; for many of the inhabitants bore arms at Bothwell Bridge. The co- lours and the drum then used are still preserved in the parish. It was in Lesmahago that the unfortunate Mr Macdonald of Kinlochmoidart was apprehended by a carpenter named Meikle, and a young clergyman of the name of Linning, — ^while on his way south to join Prince Charles ; in revenge for which, the clans, on their way north, burned Meikle's house. A Mr Lawrie, gene- rally designated the Tutor of Blackwood, from his having married the heiress of that estate, seems to have been a leading character in this part of the country in and about the time of the Revolution. His son was created a baronet by King William. Land-owners, — The Duke of Hamilton, Lord Douglas, and James J. Hope Vere, Esq. of Blackwood, are the principal pro- prietors in Lesmahago ; there are a number of other respectable land>owners, several of whom reside upon their properties. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers commence in \ 1697 ; since which time they have been pretty regularly kept, and now extend to twenty volumes. Antiquities, — Lesmahago can boast of little to attract the no- tice of the antiquarian, excepting the ruins of Craignethan Castle ; which about a century ago passed from the family of Hay into that of Douglas, by purchase. The remains of an old abbey were pulled down about thirty years ago, to make room for a modem church ; and an old Roman road, which passed through a corner of the parish, has been obliterated by the plough. — About twenty years ago, 100 small silver coins of Ed- ward I. were found below a large stone. — Nearly at the same time a Roman vase was found in the parish ; it is now placed in the museum of the University of Glasgow. Some Roman coins have also been found ; and in making a drain about ten years ago, an old Caledonian battle-axe, made of stone, was found upon the es^ tate of Blackwood. It is now in the possession of the proprietor. Many large cairns have been removed in this parish, for mate- rials in making roads and fences. These were always found to contain bones in the centre, but so far decayed as to crumble into dust on exposure to the air. Modem Buildings, — A number of modem mansions have been erected by the resident gentlemen within the last thirty years, and LANARK. C 34 LANARKSHIRE. during that time upwards of one-half of the farm-steadings have been renovated ; for which purposes abundance of good stone is easily procured. III. — Population. \. In 1801 the population was - 8070 1811, . - 4464 1821, - . 5592 1831, - - 6409 2. Number of fiunilies in the parish, .... 1168 of fiunilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 302 chiefly employed in trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, 466 3. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, - - 150 ofdeaths, ..... 64 of marriages, .... 52 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 2968 upwards of 70, - - - 818 There are about 90 small proprietors in Lesmahago ; of whom at least 50 have rentals of upwards of L. 50 a-year. The increase of the population betwixt 1821 and 1831 may be accounted for by the facility with which even boys engaged at weaving got possession of money ; able to earn considerable wages before they had acquired sense to manage them, many hurried into matrimonial connections ; and their wives being equally young and thoughtless, they indulged in dress and luxuries, and preserved no portion of their gains against poverty in less auspicious seasons. Charajcter and Habits of the People. — The people in general may be said to be of cleanly habits, which are impaired, however, in some degree, by the influx of strangers. Their style and man- ner of dress, however, may be said to be rather expensive, the ser- vant-girl dressing as gaily as the squires' daughters did thirty years ago. The difference in their table has nearly kept pace with that of their dress ; and, with few exceptions, unless among those em- ployed in agriculture, tea is an universal beverage ; even paupers consume more of that article than was used in the parish fifty years ago. How far these changes tend to the comforts and be- nefit of society may be questioned. Certainly the lower orders are not so contented nor independent as formerly ; nor is their general character for morality or religion improved ; while there cannot be a doubt that pauperism has greatly increased. The number of illegitimate births during the last three years has been 27. Until the weaving of cotton was introduced about forty-five years ago, no trade or manufacture was carried on beyond the wants of LESMAHAGO. 35 the parish. A cottage or two was attached to every farm-house, for the accommodation of the necessary labourers; along with whom the small proprietors and farmers shared in the toils of the day ; joined at the same table in their meals ; and, by the side of the kitchen fire, enjoyed the song or gossip of the evening, — conclud- ing the day with family-prayer. A fire in the better apartment, except on the visit of a friend, or on some gala day, was never thought of. Their dress was composed of home-made stuff, ex- cepting a suit of black, which was generally of EngUsh cloth, and carefully preserved for funeral and sacramental occasions. IV.' — Industry. As before stated, this parish contains about 34,000 Scotch acres ; of which, probably, 11,000 never have been under cultivation. About 1000 acres may yet be brought to carry grain occasionally, if the spirit of improvement, now so general, be not checked. 1200 acres are planted ; 450 are in coppice-wood, and 50 in vil- lage gardens and orchards. 21,300 acres thus appear to be now, or occasionally, in cultivation. Planting in general has been carri^ on within these forty years to a considerable extent in Lesmahago, which before that period was naked and bare. Now, however, it has a very different ap- pearance, and almost everywhere the eye of the traveller may rest on useful stripes or clumps. In these the Scotch fir predo- minates, though that plant seems very much degenerated ; wher- ever it is mixed with the larch, the latter takes the lead; and in damp soils it is also far behind the spruce. Were we to hazard an opinion on the cause of this degeneracy of Scotch fir, we would say it might be found in the careless way in which the nur- serymen procure the seed, which, when collected from the nearest young and stynted trees, produces feeble plants. Another circum- stance tending much to prevent the proper growth, is the want of thinning in proper time. Few people who plant, tike the idea of cutting. Rent of Land. — The quality of land varies very much : some of it is very rich, but unfortunately the poorer soil predominates. The average rent of the whole may be stated at L. 1 per acre Scotch, — ^while the waste lands may be estimated at 2s. 6d., — giving a ren- tal for the parish, exclusive of woods and orchards, of L. 22,675. The inclosed lands around gentlemen's houses are generally let for pasture during the summer, yielding a rent of about L. 3 for every cow or ox weighing from 400 to 500 lbs. weight In the com- 36 LANARKSHIRE. mon sheep-pastures, 5s. a-head during the season may be stated as a fair rent. Rate of Wages, — Farm-servants are not so high priced, nor so difficult to be got as they were a few years back ; at present, a good man-servant, fit for the plough, &c. may l>e hired for L. 14 a-year, with bed and board; while less experienced hands may be had from L. 9 to L. 12; girls fit for conducting a dairy,* under the eye of their mistresses, get about L. 4 during the summer, and about L. 2, 10s. during winter, with board. Tradesmen generally work by the piece or job ; but, like the labourers, are getting less wages than lately, nor are they so shy to work by4;he day ; when they do so, masons and carpenters expect 2s. 6d*. a-day, without victuals ; and tailors Is. 3d. or Is. 6d. with board. • Breeds of Live Stock, — From the elevation of Lesmahago parish, it is better suited for the dairy, and the breeding of cattle, than for raising grain ; consequently, the small proprietors and tenants have turned their attention in these ways for the last thirty years. During that time, the Ayrshire breed of cattle has been principal- ly reared ; and the cheese made from new milk, known by th^ name of Dunlop, has become a staple commodity. Of this about «*100 lbs. weight may be made from every cow, when the whole milk is turned to that account ; and on some farms, with careful hands, that quantity, is raised, and a number of young stock reared, — which goes to uphold the original stock, or to supply the English and other markets with that breed of cattle. Lanarkshire has long been famous for its breed of draught horses, of which Les- mahago has its share. The Jewish antipathy against swine seems to be wearing off, and the occupiers of land find it profitable to keep a few of these ani- mals, to consume the refuse of the dairy ; and many labourers and mechanics keep a pig, by the dung of which they raise potatoes with a neighbouring farmer in the following year. A mixed breed, be- tween the English and Highland kind, seems the favourite ; which, when properly fed, may be killed at the age of nine or ten months, weighing from two to two and a-half hundred weight It is pro- bable this kind of stock may be more attended to hereafter. The sheep kept on the high grounds are of the old Scotch black-faced kind, weighing from ten to fifteen pounds imperial per quarter, when fattened. This breed is better adapted to the soil and climate than the Cheviot or finer kinds ; and the improvements sought after by the sheep-master are in shape and weight ; to both of which they pay particular attention. By keeping fewer in num- LESMAHAGO. 37 ber than was done forty years ago, they are better fed, and are thus enabled to struggle with the stonns and snows of winter ; while surface-drains made upon the soft lands, at the rate of L. 3 for 6000 yards, have added greatly to their improvement, by keeping the ground dry, and raising sweeter herbage. Husbandry. — A very considerable extent of waste land has been reclaimed in Lesmahago within the last twenty-five years ; which has generally paid the improvement in the course of the first three years, leaving the amelioration of the soil as profit to the farmer. Draining had long been only partially carried on, but seems now to become more general. Irrigation is little attended to here, ex- cept, in a few instances, for meadow hay ; and embanking is not much wanted, as the streams have generally high and steep banks. The leases granted to tenants are generally for nineteen years. Some time ago, when land was constantly increasing in value, landlords in some instances made the leases of shorter duration ; but this has not had the effect of either putting money into their pockets, or improving their estates : it has rather been of a con- trary tendency. As mentioned before, the farm-houses have been much improved within the last forty years ; and within the same time, enclosures have been much attended to ; some hundreds of miles of Galloway stone-dikes have been built, where the materials were abundant, or the soil inimical to hedges ; while the last have been raised upon the better soils, and now adorn a great propor- tion of the parish. It may be regretted, however, that we still want those hedge-rows of timber, which in many parts of the island give the appearance of a close-wooded country. The greatest obstacles to improvement appears to be the sys- tem of entails ; and, I may add, the custom among landlords of let- ting tlyeir farms to the highest bidder, without a sufficient evidence of his possessing capital adequate to the management of the farm in the most advantageous way. Produce, — The gross amount of raw produce (exclusive of the pasture lands) raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertain- ed, is as follows : 20,000 quarters of grain, say at L. I, 5s. per quarter, - L. 25,000 000 acres of potatoes, and 50 of turnips, average value L. 14 per acre, 9,100 1200 tons of cultivated hay, at L. 3 per ton, and 900 tons of mea. dow, at L. 2 per ton, ... 4,200 Thinnings of wood, - ... . 400 Cutting of coppice, . . . . . 25(9 Toul, L. 98,950 38 LANARKSHIRE. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no market-towns in the parish, the nearest being La- nark, at the distance of six miles from Abbey Green. Upwards of one-third of the population, however, are congregated in the vil- lages of Abbey Green, Kirkmuirhill, Kirkfield Bank, Boghead, and Nethanfoot, all of which villages have a regular communication with Glasgow by means of coaches and carriers ; and there is a daily post to the former. Means of Communication. — Besides the Glasgow and Carlisle road, which runs upwards of eight miles in the parish, and the Glas- gow and Lanark road, running about five, there are not less than eighty miles of parish roads kept up by converted statute labour money : and of these fifty miles at least are in very tolerable order. Bridges have been built, partly from the county funds, upon all the streams crossed by these lines of road. Ecclesiastical State, — Lesmahago has been a collegiate charge ever since the Reformation. The church is in the village of Abbey Green, in the centre of the parish. It is capable of containing 1500 sitters, — the whole being divided among the heritors for their respective tenantry, according to their respective valuations, with the exception of a pew to each clergyman. The first minis- ter has a glebe of eight acres (Scotch,) which might be let at L. 5 per acre : with a stipend of sixteen chalders, one half oat- meal and the other barley, converted, at the highest fiars price of the county, and yielding on an average of the last seven years, L. 277, 12s. The second minister has a manse and garden, but no glebe : — ^he has the same stipend as the first, and rents a small farm from the patron, on which the heritors have built his house and the requisite accommodations. There are two dissenting chapels belonging to different deno- minations of Burghers ; both of these have been lately erected. The ofiiciating clergymen are paid from the seat rents, and from voluntary contributions, affording about L. 100 a-year to each. Although these houses have still the enticement of novelty, by far the greater number in the parish adhere to the Established church, in which divine service is well attended. The average number of communicants at the Established church is about 1700. The number of dissenters is about 200. Education. — The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum sa- lary, with a good house and garden ; he has also perquisites as ses- sion-clerk, amounting to L. 22 a-year. His school-fees may amount 4 LESMAHAGO. 39 to L. 45. The heritors have assessed themselves in an additional chalder, which is divided amon^ a few other schools, enabling those at a distance from the parish school, to educate their children in English, writing, and arithmetic, and sometimes even in Greek and Latin, at an expense of from ds. to 5s. a quarter, according to their studies. The consequence is, that reading and writing may be said to be universal, and at present the different schools are attended by upwards of 600 children. A subscription school for teaching girls to read and sew is also kept up in the village of Abbey Green ; it is attended by about 80. There are also four well attended Sab- bath schools for boys and girls. It does not, however, appear very evidently that either the conduct or morals of the people have been improved by the increased fiacilities of education : the vices of drunkenness and pilfering, from whatever cause, have certainly not decreased, while discontent has made rapid strides, and the reluctance to come upon the poors' roll has vanished. Library^ 4rc. — There is a small subscription library in the parish, but it is not in a very thriving state. The parishioners at the same time receive a variety of the London, Edinburgh, and Glas- gow newspapers and periodicals. Benevolent Societies. — There are three Societies in the parish, which distribute a portion of their funds among their aged or sickly members : the inclination, however, to join in such associations, it is feared, is now declining. Samngs Bank, — A Savings bank was established a few years ago. The principal depositors are farm and house-servants : and it is now in a thriving state. The average amount yearly invested is L.60; withdrawn, L.20. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers has been trebled within the last thirty years, and now amounts to 148 regu- larly enrolled. There being neither alms nor poors' house in the parish, they receive from ds. to 15s. monthly in their own houses, amounting to about L. 500 yearly; of this sum, L.47 is raised by collections in the church ; and L. 98 is the produce of mortified money; the remainder is made up by an assessment upon the land, one-half paid by the heritors, and the other by the tenants. Too little attention, however, is paid to this branch of parochial busi- ness; the session, by giving up the practice of collecting with ladles in the church, and individuals by propagating the idea that the heritors are bound to support the poor, have brought the public collection below what it was a hundred years ago, when the popu- I 40 LANARKSHIRE. lation was less than half what it is now, and money four times the value. Inns. — There has been an increase in the niunber of inns, or rather whisky shops, in the parish, at the rate of six to one, within the last forty years ; which either tends to, or is a proof of, the de- moralization of the inhabitants; at present their number is as one to less than every 250 souls in Lesmahago. Miscellaneous Observations. This parish has undergone a great change since the last Sta- tistical Account was published ; the population has greatly in- creased ; the lands have been generally inclosed ; plantations have sprung up; roads, from mere tracts, have become good carriage ways ; and these, with the opening up of lime in several places, have given a facility to improvements in agriculture which has not been neglected ; an improved mode of husbandry has been adopted ; draining has been introduced ; and waste lands to a great extent have been brought into cultivation. These improvements, how- ever, may, with due encouragement on the part of the landlords, be carried still farther, and, by giving employment to labourers, would add to the comfort and happiness of that useful class of so- ciety, and tend to the diminution of ^pauperism, — objects which ought never to be lost sight of by judicious landlords. March 1834. UNITED PARISH OF LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. PRESBYTERY OF BIG6AR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. ALEXANDER CRAIK, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Extent. — The parish of Quothquan was annexed to that of Libberton in the year 1669. The united parish extends from north to south about seven miles, and from east to west about four and a-half miles. It contains nearly 14 square miles, or 8703 impe- rial acres. Topographical Appearances* — Along the whole course of the Clyde in this parish, there is a great extent of low level land, con- sisting of a strong clay soil, a considerable portion of which is covered with water as often as the Clyde overflows its banks, which gene- rally happens ten or twelve times in the year ; and the soil being enriched by these inundations, produces luxuriant crops, without any other manure. Where these holm lands are embanked, (which is done when it can be effected without great expense,) the crops are protected against the inroads of the river; but in this, as in other cases, manure is required to renew the soil. The banks of the Clyde rise gently, but in some places rather suddenly, to the height of 50 or 60 feet above the stream, and ex- tend to the distance of half a mile or more beyond it. The land on the banks of the Clyde is generally early and fertile, and its average rent L. 2, 10s. per acre. As the land recedes from the Clyde, it becomes more elevated, later, and less productive ; and though there are some early and fertile spots near the Medwin, the banks of that river are for the most part poor and moorish. Meteorology. — On this head, it may be only remarked, that a greater quantity of rain falls here than on the east coast. The climate is neither so warm nor so dry as to render the cul- ture of wheat an object ; but other kinds of grain succeed very well 42 LANARKSHIRE. in ordinary seasons ; and the inhabitants of this parish are subject to as few diseases, and are as healthy, on the whole, as those of any other parish in Scotland. This must be owing, in a great measure, to the pure keen air they breathe, as well as to the ge« neral temperance of their habits. Hydrography, — The only rivers in this parish are the Clyde and the Medwin. The Clyde, when swollen by rain, overflows all the low grounds on its banks, doing much damage to the growing crops within its reach. The farmers, however, often carry oflF the crops as they are cut, beyond the reach of the inundation. The breadth of the Clyde in this parish is from 100 to 120 feet, and its depth from 15 to 1 foot There are several fords when the stream is low ; but in winter they are often impassable. The South Medwin, which bounds Libberton parish for three miles, rises near Garvaldfoot, in the parish of West Linton, and, after a course of nine miles, is joined by the North Medwin, in this parish, about a mile and a-half before they both fall into the Clyde. A small branch of the South Medwin runs off towards the east, near Garvaldfoot, and, dividing at Dolphington, the counties of La- nark and Peebles, falls into the Tweed. The South Medwin, within its usual channels, is in general about 22 feet broad, and 2 or 3 feet deep, at an average. When united, the Medwins are not much broader, but of greater mean depth. XL — Civil History. It appears from Wodrow's History that, in the year 1663, the parish of Libberton was fined L. 252, 8s. Scots, and Quothquhan L. 182, 16s. Scots, for nonconformity to Prelacy. Chief Land-oumers, — The chief land-owner is Sir Norman Mac- donald Lockhart, Bart, of Lee and Carnwath. Family of Chancellor of ShieldhilL — The second land-owner is Alexander Chancellor, Esq. of Shieldhill, whose ancestors have been in possession of this estate for the last four centuries, as appears from a charter still extant, * granted by Thomas Lord Sommerville to William Chancellor of Shieldhill and Quothquhan, a. d. 1432. In July 1474, William Chancellor rode with the rest of the then Lord Sommerville's vassals to meet King James on his way from Edinburgh to Couthally Castle, to partake of the festivity of the " speates and raxes." f • This charter is referred to in the Memoirs of the Sommervilles, Vol. i. p. 175. t Ibid. pp. 240-248. LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. 43 After the battle of Bothwell Bridge, James Chancellor was im- prisoned oir suspicion of having harboured some fugitives; but no- thing being proved against him, he was liberated after some days confinement. * The same gentleman was returned as elder by the presbytery of Biggar to the first General Assembly which met after the revolution of 1688. f The family residence was originally at Quothquan, and remain- ed there till 1567, when the then proprietor joined Queen Mary's party at Hamilton, and engaged in the battle of Langside. After her defeat, a party of 500 horsemen, sent out by Regent Murray to demolish the houses of her adherents, burned down, among others, the mansion-house at Quothquan. After this calamity, the family residence was removed to Shieldhill, which appears originally to have been a square tower of no great dimensions, but which has at different times been added to and modernized, particularly by the present proprietor. At a short distance to the southward from Shieldhill is the man- sion-house of Huntfield, the property of John Stark, Esq., surround- ed by thriving plantations. Parochial Register. — The earliest date of the parochial registers is 1717. They consist of two volumes, and refer to births and baptisms, marriages and burials. The registration by dissenters is somewhat irregular; but otherwise the records are satisfactorily kept. Antiquities, — About half a mile south-west from the church, are to be seen the ruins of a fortification or camp, — improperly called Roman, as its form is circular. It stands on the edge of a high and barren moor, about half a mile from the Clyde, and commands an extensive view of that river to the south and west It contains about 1 \ acres, and is surrounded by a double wall of earth, a deep ditch intervening. III. — Population. " From the session records," according to the Statistical Account of the late Mr Fraser, " it appears that the births in this parish from April 1683 to April 1753, amounted exactly to 2205, the annual average of which is 31 J. The marriages during the same period amounted to 563, the annual average of which is little more than • Wodrow's Church History. •f Records of the Biggar Presbytery. 44 LANARKSHIRE 8." The return to Dr Webster in 1755 gave 708 persons examin- able, or above 8 years of age. In 1811, the population was 749 1821. - - 785 1831,. - - 773 The decrease of population may be imputed to the consolidation of farms, the non-residence of heritors, the removal of part of the population to towns in quest of employment, and of late to Ame- rica, — twenty individuals having emigrated to that country from this parish in the year 1831. There are 8 proprietors in this parish, having yearly rentals of r L. 100 and upwards. The gross rental of the parish is L.4561. 1. Number of families in the parish, - - - - 152 of fiunilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 80 chiefly employed in trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, ' 36 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 7 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 33 3. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, - 14 of deaths, ... . 9 of marriages, . . . . 7 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 331 upwards of 70, - - - 18 Character of the People, — They are generally sober, frugal, and industrious, and, as a proof of this, there is not an alehouse in the parish. I regret to add, however, that illicit intercourse be- twixt the sexes has become more common than it appears to have * been forty or 'fifty years ago ; the number of illegitimate births be- ing not less on an average than three in the year. I should add, too, that poaching is not uncommon, and is hardly considered to be unlawful. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — Arable, - - - 5403 imperial acres. Waste or pasture land, . 2500 Land worth the cultivating, - 300 Land under wood, - - 500 8703 Rent of Land. — Average rent of land per acre is L. 1, 5s. ; ave- rage cost of grazing an ox or cow per year, L. 3 ; grazing a quey, L. 1, 10s. ; grazing a sheep, 14s. Rate of Wages, — Yearly wages of a ploughman, with victuals, L. 12; of a maid-servant, L. 6, 10s.; of a boy or girl, L.2; la- LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. 45 bourers, per day, without victuals, Is. QcL;* masons, 2s. 6d ; wrights, 2s. 6d. ; smith's work per lb. of iron, 6d. In the time of harvest, labourers' wages with victuals, L. 2 ; womens' dOs. Breeds of Live Stock, — The common breed of cattle is the Ayr- shire, and of sheep a cross between the Cheviot and Leicester. Both are improved by the frequent introduction of new stock. HusboJidry. — The general method of farming on dry lands is in six divisions, by the following rotation of crops, viz ] . corn ; 2. fal- low or green crop ; 3. com ; 4. hay ; 5. pasture ; 6. pasture. On rich lands lying near the Clyde, four divisions are observed, viz. 1. corn; 2. green crop; 3. com: 4. hay. Every encouragement has been given by the proprietors to in^ dustrious tenants. In the southem and westem parts of the pa- rish, where enclosures can be considered advantageous, the whole of the lands are enclosed, either by stone-dikes or hedges and ditches. In other districts of the parish, there are no enclosures of any description. A good deal of improvement has been effect- ed in draining wet lands, but very little of any consequence in re- claiming waste lands. On one estate about fifty acres have been reclaimed within fifteen or twenty years. The duration of leases in the parish is nineteen years. In the southern division the state of farm-buildings is considered supe- rior to that of those on almost any estate in the neighbourhood of equal extent. In the course of the last seven years the greater part of the farm-steadings has been, rebuilt substantially. The others have been repaired, and by enlargements every suitable accommodation has been given to the tenants. In the rest of the parish, the farm-buildings are generally bad, and incommodious. The face of the country would still be much improved by en- closures and belts of planting, judiciously made. A good deal has been done in this respect of late years : and on the lands of Cormiston, Shieldhill, Huntfield, and Whitecastle, more than 400 acres of larch, Scotch and spruce fir, intermixed with va- rieties of hard wood, have been planted by their respective proprie- tors. These plantations are at present in a thriving state, and are already, or will, ere long, be a great ornament to the vicinity. On the property of Huntfield alone, there are 250 imperial acres under wood, the greater portion of which has been planted within the last twenty years. A great part of Libberton moor, which is now a barren waste, if sheltered, drained, ^'and subdivided bv belts of planting, and let in small pendicles to industrious cottagers at little 46 LANARKSHIRE. or no rent for some years, would soon be reclaimed ; and at no very great expense rendered no less profitable to the proprietor, than ornamental to the neighbourhood. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is as follows : Oats, 6020 bolls, at IBs. per boU, - - . - L. 5418 As my predecessor, Mr Eraser, in his Statistical Account, states the number of acres sown in oats forty years ago at 2123^ whidi at only five bolls per acre, a very moderate average, would amount to 10,615 bolls, and as a still greater quantity is produced now, the feed and seed oats cannot be included in the above. Feed oats mean the meal used by the fitmily and servants, and the com consumed by the cattle on a fifurm ; and seed oats those required to sow it. Many fiurms in the parish affbrd an average of 8 or 9 bolls per Scotch acre. Barley and bear, ... . -700 00 Turnips, d400 tons, at 58. per ton, ... - 850 Potatoes, 2400 bolls of 4 cwt. at 58. per boll, - - - 602 10 Rye-grass, 32,240 stones of 22 lbs. at 6d. per stone, - - 806 Meadow hay, 8000 stones, at 4d. per stone, - - • 133 6 Produce of cattle and sheep grazed, .... 1100 Do. of the dairy in butter and cheese, at L. 7 per cow, is - 3395 Gross amount, - L. 130O4 16 A considerable portion of most of the above articles is consumed by the horses and cattle. Number of milk cows in the parish, - 485 Do. of queys and stots reared and bred, - 190 Number of horses, - - - 120 of carts, ... 108 of ploughs, - - - 49 V. — Parochial Economy. Camwath is the nearest market-town. It is 2^ miles from Libberton church. Means of Communication. — There is no toll-road in the parish, except the one betwixt Glasgow and Peebles, which passes through the north-east comer of it for nearly a mile ; and many of the pa- rish roads are bad, as they extend about 30 miles, and would re- quire far more funds to put and keep them in repair than the pa- rish could afford. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church was built in 1812, and had the heritors laid out L. 40 or L. 50 more upon it, it would have lasted sixty or seventy years longer than it will do. It is feared that from damp much of the wood, both in the galleries and below, LIBBERTON AND QUOTHQUAN. 47 will soon rot The church affords accommodation to 450 per&ons, and is amply sufficient for the whole population. The manse was built in 1824, and is a good house ; but the offices are indifferent The glebe extends to about 8 Scotch acres, and is worth L. 16 yearly. The stipend is 15 chalders, or 240 bolls Linlithgow measure, of grain, half meal and half barley, besides L. 8, 6s. dd. for com- munion elements. There are no chapels of ease, nor dissenting chapels in the parish. The number of dissenters above twelve years of age is about 170, — much the same number as was found by the present writer when he entered to the parish in 1813. The dissenters generally be- long either to Seceding or Relief congregations in Biggar, which is nearer to some parts of the parish than the parish church. There are only two Episcopalian families in the parish, who have no chapel within 20 miles. The average number of communicants at the parish church is from 200 to 220. JEducatian. — There are two schools in the parish, viz. the paro- chial school at the church town of Libberton, and the school of Quothquan ; the latter is supported by a mortification of L. 2, 10s. L. 6 for house rent yearly, and the school fees ; there are also attached to it a good school and school-house, built last sum- mer. There is also a Sunday school taught at Quothquan, which is attended by 25 scholars, and is superintended partly by the teacher at Quothquan, and partly by the private tutor at Shieldhill. The salary of the parochial teacher is L. 30, and the amount of school fees does not exceed L. 20 a-year. In Quothquan school the school fees must be considerably less. The parochial teacheY has the legal accommodations. There are no persons bom and brought up in the parish, who cannot read and write. TheriB is a parochial library in the parish ; also a Friendly So- ciety, which was instituted in 1811 for the relief of its distressed members. Poor and Parochial Funds. — At present there are 13 poor per- sons receiving each about an average of L. 4 yearly. The amount of annual contributions for the poor is about L. 58, of which L. 45 arises from voluntary assessment, one-half of which is paid by the proprietors, and the other half by the tenants. The church col- lections amount to L. 1 1 ; and there is also the interest of L. 40, 48 LANARKSHIRE. — L. 1, 16s. There is less disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief than formerly, nor do they now con- sider it so degrading. FueL — The fuel chiefly used is coal, procured either from the parish of Douglas, at the distance of ten miles, or from Cleugh, in the parish of Carnwath, nine miles distant from the church town of Libberton. Miscellaneous Observations. As a proof of the great rise in the value of land in this parish within these last thirty or forty years, the property of Whitecastle, situated in the most elevated district of the parish, was purchased about forty years ago, for about L. 2700 ; and it has yielded an an • * nual rent, for these nineteen years past, of L. 283, which is not ac* counted too high. About thirty-two years ago, a property was purchased for the same sum, in the southern district of the parish; the annual rent of which is now L. 345. It may be added, that the farmers labour under great disadvan- tages from their high rents, the difficulty of communication with good and ready markets, and their liability to have their crops of corn and potatoes injured by frosts in autunm ; in consequence of which they have not only a deficiency of produce, but are obliged to purchase their seed at a dear rate from a distance. In certain districts, chiefly the poorest, and most elevated of the parish, there is a disease incident to cows called the stiffness^ the cause or cure of which has never yet been well ascertained, but which generally proves fatal to its victims. It is a general wasting, or atrophy, which attacks cattle in the spring or winter months, and reduces them to skeletons. Their only chance of recovery is in their re- moval to a richer pasture, before the disease has far advanced. March 1834. PARISH OF DOLPHIN TON. PRESBYTERY OP BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JOHN AITON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name — Boundaries. — A Dolphin fish is represented in the arms of the principal heritor; but the name of Dolphinstown, as it was an- ciently spelled, seems with more probability to be derived from that of one of the early proprietors of the manor. Dolfine, the eldest brother of Coss Patrick, first Earl of Dunbar, acquired this property during the reign of Alexander L, about the begining of the twelfth century. In the district of the country from which he came, a village with the ruins of an ancient castle still retains his name ; and there are other places of the same appellation in Roxburgh- shire and in West Lothian.* The parish is 3 miles long from east to west, 2| broad, and con- tains 2926 statute acres. I ts form is nearly that of an oblong square, bounded by Linton, Walston, Dunsyre, and Kirkurd. Topographical Appearances. — Dolphinton hill is in height above the level of the sea about 1550 feet This and the hill of Wal- ston adjoining to it, are separated about a mile from the west end of the Pentlands, and form with Tinto, which is five miles to the west- ward, so many connecting links of one of the great collateral chains which gird our island, from St Abb's Head to Ailsay Craig. With the exception of Keir-hill, which rises in a conical shape about 250 feet high, the rest of the land in the parish is arable, with a moderate acclivity in an altitude of from 700 to 800 feet.f Meteorology* — During the last two months of spring and first of summer, the wind generally blows from the east or north-east. In March and April it dries up from the ground the stagnant mois- * In Douglas MS. Chronicle of England, Thomas Dolfine is recorded among the " greCe lordes of Sooteland** who were defeated at Halidon Hill in 1«^38. t Altitude of Garvaldfoot, as ascertained by Telford, 785 feet. The top of Dol- phinton-hill, as lately measured by the writer of this account, is 816 feet above the site of the manse. LANARK. D 50 LANARKSHIRE. ture of winter, pulverizes the seed-furrow, and extracts noxious mat- ter from the air ; but in May and June it retards vegetation and en- genders the grub worm. At this season, in consequence of copi- ous evaporations arising from the high comparative temperature of the German Ocean, (which in winter is three degrees colder, and in summer five degrees warmer than the Atlantic,) thick easterly hoars occasionally reach us from the coast. When the polar re- gions become warmer, the westerly winds get the ascendancy; and in winter they temper the air, sweep before them pestilential va- pours, and import from the green forests of America gases health- ier than those arising from the putrid vegetation of our own coun- try. The prevalence of these winds is indicated by the direction in which the branches of trees are inclined; and to shelter their na- ked trunk, nature has given a great-coat of cup, herbaceous, and thread-like lichen on its windward side, and on the westward skirts of our plantations. Climate. — Although most of the arable land lies 700 feet above the level of the sea, yet, as it is partially sheltered by nature and art, and as the rays of the sun are reflected from the hills on both sides of the valley, the temperature of the atmosphere is not so low as might have been expected. The average of the whole year may be about 45^ of Fahrenheit In other words, our climate is more affected by its relative than its real altitude ; and, to a certain extent, verifies the observation, that a height of 600 feet is equal to no more than a degree of latitude to the north. As the soil is now generally dry, and us the air is not too moist, epidemic dis- tempers are little known. Our artificial water-meadows may still create some unhealthy exhalations, and induce mildew on grain in harvest, but the extensive agricultural improvements lately effect- ed have substituted a purer air " for the putrid effluvia of the large moss to the eastward ;" doubled the husbandman's return pot ^* in late" but in seasonable harvests, and rendered " early frost in Au- gust and September, which oft-times formerly destroyed the crop in one night" of late years almost unknown. That the climate of this parish has been meliorated, and that agricultural improvements have operated to a certain extent in that result, cannot be denied. That the seasons are milder is also probable, and may be partly accounted for. But how in the time of the Romans this country' should have been so much warmer than France, as to ripen vines, when in Gaul they could not be cultivated ; how trees of enor- mous dimensions grew of old spontaneously where the ingenuity DOLPHINTOX. 51 of man can scarcely rear them to the tenth part of the size, or keep them alive beyond the age of their youth ; how wheat should have been anciently paid as a tithe to the neighbouring priory of Lesmahago, from lands where, under the present economy, oats can scarcely be ripened ; how the mark of the plough, like that of a field which has been under active culture, is seen much farther up the hill than it is now carried ; how farms in this vicinity, fitted out for the ancient wappingshaws three times the number of men and horses now maintained on them ; and how our very moors at present support less stock than they did at the date of Charters still extant, are important facts, never well accounted for ; the in- vestigation of which might discover the means of still farther reme<> dying the defects and improving the advantages of our northern climate. * Hydrography, — It is interesting to mark the local agents by which nature secures for her whole family an impartial distribu- tion of moisture, and to see how far the winds carry and mountains attract water to supply the animal and vegetable creation in every quarter. Notwithstanding that Dolphinton is distant fifty miles from the nearest point of the great reservoir of fluidity to Scotland, yet we have nine-tenths of our rain from the Atlantic Ocean. To se- cure this indispensable requisite, our hills run in ranges almost pa- rallel from the western to the eastern shore. Along the interven- ing valleys, as if through so many funnels, the watery clouds rush before the wind, dropping their golden showers. For twenty or thirty miles from the Ayrshire coast, the hills tower in regular succes- sion each above another, till they reach the western boundaries of Lanarkshire. The lofty ridge of the Lowthers overtops Caimtable by nearly 1000 feet ; and therefore not only draws up but breaks the clouds, and thus renders them lighter for the distant voyage east- ward. On this side of the Crawford mountains, and in the shel- tered vale of the Clyde, the atmosphere being much denser, buoys up the clouds, and conveys them as if along an aqueduct by Cul- ter-fell and Tinto, till Walston-mount and Dolphinton-hill get them in charge. Here, as was often observed in the extreme drought of summer 1826, when for four months every dark spot * Polybius describes the climate of Gaul and Germany as a perpetual winter. Di- odonis SiculuB says, that such was the piercing coldness of the air in Gaul, that it produced neither vines nor olives. Caesar and Tacitus both testify that our climate was milder than that of Gaul. And it is well known that the Romans obtained li- berly from one of their emperors to plant vineyards and make wine in Britain. 52 LANARKSHIRE. ill the sky was anxiously watched in vain, they diverge into three portions. One goes towards the south and east down the vale of the Lyne ; a second crosses in the opposite direction by Dunsyre and Midcorset; while the third and greater portion keeps the original tract by Mendick along the Pentlands. At the summit of Car- nethy, the highest hill of this range, a similar partition takes place. One division is carried towards Dalkeith, a second across the Forth, while the main body moves over Edinburgh by Arthur Seat. When moisture comes from the east, it is either in a creeping kaavy or in a storm, which, whether it be of rain or snow, usually lasts for three days. As a certain prognostic of a change of weather, it deserves to be mentioned, that in the memorable drought already referred to, the springs of water which had been long dried up, again gathered strength for several days before a drop of rain fell. This sii^lar phenomenon is probably refer- able to the same law of nature which in frost causes rheum to ooze from stone, earth, and trees, prior to any other sign of thaw. The average quantity of rain, so far as it has been ascertained by a guage lately kept at the manse, may be about 27 inches yearly. With the exception of the moisture from the north side of the parish, which falls in streamlets into the south Med win and Clyde, the waters of Dolphinton are carried in one small rivulet called Tairth, into the Lyne and Tweed. In the northern extremity of the parish, above Garvald House, the Medwin is separated into two portions. The one of these finds its way eastward into the Tweed, the other by keeping its natural course to the west, runs into the Clyde. It is said that salmon and salmon fry, but no pars, have been killed in the Clyde above Lanark. As these could never ascend the falls, fishers have been puzzled by the fact But it may perhaps be accounted for, from the topographical cir- cumstance here mentioned. The fish may go up the Tweed, Lyne, and Tairth, into the Medwin by its southern extremity ; and in going down the water, they may, from accident or design, take the western stream into the Clyde. Whether they are, in thus returning to the sea, dashed to death over the Corra Linn, or whether they succeed, by this new north-west passage, in ex- changing the German for the Atlantic Ocean as their home, can- not well be ascertained. Geology and Mineralogy, — The principal mineral in nine-tenths of the parish is whin or trap-rocks. These form a portion of the ex- tensive Phonolitic range, which nms from the confines of Ayrshire, DOLPHINTON. 53 by Haukshawhill, eastward by Tinto, and the Penilands. The whole of these hills, from their saddle-back shape, indicate to the first glance of the geologist, that they are composed of trap-tuff, or what is popularly styled rotten whin. It is said to be intermediate between the two classes of volcanic rocks, the basaltic and trachy- tic ; and to be composed chiefly of felspar and zeolite. It is not found here in beds, but has a massive form, so brittle as to fall into small pieces when dug up. In this parish it is mostly of a brown colour, and on the top of Dolphinton-hill it has much the appearance of burnt limestone before it is reduced to powder, by the application of moisture. Even the most adhesive portion of it, of which some of the dikes have unfortunately been built, when ex- posed for a few years to the atmosphere, first cracks, then falls down like a lime-«hell, and is finally reduced into mud. But it stands the weather better when pointed with lime. In the south side of the strath, beginning at the brook behind the manse, a stra- tum of sandstone, at first mixed with brittle trap and quartz, but after- wards much freer, appears. Its dip is towards the east and north, at a small angle. In the centre of our valley, to the north of the free- stone range, and to the south of that of the trap-tuff, an amygdaloidal ridge traverses the parish from east to west ; and a curious clink- stone porphyry is found in the quarry near Lockhead. Some ap- pearances of lead induced the proprietors of Newholm to make search for it ; but the attempt was ultimately abandoned. A vein of it probably stretches from Candy Bank eastward through this and the parish of Linton by Silver Holes. A sort of tilly substance is found in the south corner of the parish, which forms excellent oven-stones. Soil — It is said that in warm cUmates the Phonolitic districts are extremely fertile and well adapted to the culture of the vine ; and it is affirmed that this fertility arises from these rocks impart- ing to the soil during theif* decomposition a great quantity of al- kali. But in higher latitudes, such alluvial formations are general- ly meagre. In this parish the soil resting on these rocks is re- markable neither for its fertility nor sterility. In general, it is a dry friable earth or sandy loam, in some situations abundantly deep, but in others rather shallow. Our soil is more fertile towards the hill than in the plain below. A sort of clay-soil of a rusty iron colour abounds in the parish, and the subsoil is mostly of this na- ture. In a few low situations an imperfect moss earth has been 54 LANARKSHIRE. formed by stagnant water over the original soil, but in general it is free from damp. Botany. — The soil covering rotten whin is said to produce in this county only ling (Calluna vulffarisy) and similar plants equally worthless; but in this parish all the common grasses and other rural plants are found on the arable lands in abundance, and the swamps have their full proportion of marsh plants. Perhaps our failLs, al- though clothed with grass almost to the top, are deficient in the variety of alpine vegetation. Genista Anglica^ Newholm plantations ; Ribes cdpinunif west from Craft Andrew; Myriophyllum spicatunif in a ditch near town foot ; Equisetum hyemale^ at Nine Wells, are the rarest plants hitherto noticed in the parish. Hippuris vulgaris and Primula farinosay one of the rarest and prettiest of plants, may be found in three different habitats on the eastern confines of Dol- phinton.' The few following plants are mentioned as inhabitants of this district, not because they are rare, but as they afford a botanical index to the nature of our soil and climate, as connect- ed with the physical distribution of the vegetable creation. In the meadows, buckbean, sun-dew, orchis, meadow-sweet, marsh marigold, cotton-grass, louse-wort; on the hills, tormentil and foxglove ; in the plantations and fields not under cultivation, saxi- frage, wood-anemone ; and of the grasses, there are, in most abun- dance, bent, hair, sedge, foxtail, Timothy, fescue, and cocksfoot ; by the way side, stone-crop, ragged- Robin, self-heal, and most of the crow-foot varieties. Several of the fields at Garvaldfoot are, in spite of many judicious attempts to extirpate them, white in July, as if covered with snow, from the astonishing abundance of the ox-eye. Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum. There are no forests in the parish, but the trees in it show what may be produced. The heritors are still gradually extend- ing their plantations. As the parish is sheltered by nature from every quarter but from the windy west, two or three broad stripes stretching across the valley would be of essential service. ^ II. — Civil History.* Historical Notices. — Till the epoch of the revolution, Dolphin- ton belonged to the diocese of Glasgow, and deanery (or, after the year 1585, the presbytery) of Lanark. In 1644, when the • For Uie Civil and Ecclesiastical History of the Parish, see Chart. Paisley, No. Sd3, d42.—MS. RenUl-Book, II Privy Seal, Reg. xxzvii. 49, 51 Inquis. Spec. 237,260, 89a— Hamilton of Wishaw's MS. Account, 51 And Caledonia, iii. La- narkshire, pastitn. DOLPHINTON. 55 presbytery of Biggar was erected, this parish was included in its jurisdiction, and became part of the synod of Lothian and Tweeds dale. In the time of the sycophantish Baliol, and also after the disastrous defeat of David IL at Durham, when the English boast- ed that their marches were from Soutray to Carlops and Cross* cryne, Dolpbinton was a border parish. And, had the geographi- cal circumstances of the district been the rule by which parishes were originally classed, it would have belonged to Peebles-shire. The names of places, habitations, fosses, and sepulchres still extant, prove that the parish was anciently inhabited by the native Britons ; but no traces of the Romans now remain. The marks of the Romanised Britons have, from their original similarity, been long confounded with those of the British Gauls ; and even the foot- steps of the Saxons who, after the subversion of the Celtic domi- nion occupied this district, are few and indistinct. The dawn of our history as a separate parish begins with the acquisition of it by Dolfine. How long his descendants retained the territory has not been ascertained. But it is certain that the manor and pa- tronage of the church became an early pertinent of the baronial territory of Bothwell, and with it underwent the stormy changes of its brave proprietors. During the reign of Alexander III. Dol- pbinton belonged to Walter Olifard, Justiciary of Lothian, who died in 1242. It next passed, by marriage probably, to. Walter de Moray, the progenitor of Sir Andrew, who was the faithful part- ner in conunand with Wallace, the veteran champion with Bruce in all his victories, and the Regent of Scotland ui the minority of David IL Edward L gave it to Aymer de Vallence, Earl of Pembroke, when guardian for Scotland. In 1370, Johanna, only child of Sir Thomas Moray, carried it to the grim Archibald Douglas, Lord of Galloway, who, after the battle of Otterbum, became Earl of Douglas. In 1440, after the young Douglas was served at dinner in Edinburgh Castle with the ominous dessert of a bull's head, James Earl of Avondale became proprietor of our manor. In 1455, when a single battle at Abercom might have raised Douglas to the throne, but when his own indecision, and the desertion of Hamilton sunk him to an exile, Dolpbinton re- verted to the crown. In 1483, James IIL conferred it on Sir James Ramsay, one of the ablest of his favourites. After the as- sassination of James at Beaton's mill, Ramsay lost it by forfeiture, and Dolpbinton was, in 1488, given by James IV. to the masterof his household, Patrick Hepburn, Lord Hailes. In 1492, when the 56 LANARKSHIRE. • treasonable connection of the Earl of Angus with England became apparent, with a view to remove him from the conmiand of tlie border passes and forts, Hepburn gave him Dolphinton and other centrical lands in exchange for Liddesdale, and the strong castle of Hermitage ; but the superiority was retained till 1567, when it was forfeited by the restless James Earl of Bothwell, whose crimes caused Queen Mary's cruel fate, and his own imprisonment for ten years in a Norwegian dungeon. In 1581 this property was granted to Francis Stewart, who, in his turn, was created Earl Bothwell ; but in 1593 it was escheated to the crown by his at- tainder. Soon after this period the ancestors of the present noble family of Douglas acquired this manor. Chalmers says, in Caledo- nia, VoL iii. that, during the seventeenth and part of the eighteenth century, the lands of Dolphinton were held in property by the fa- mily of Brown, but on a stone in front of the burying-aisle for the predecessors and successors of William Brown of Dolphinton, the date 1517 is quite legible. In 1755, Kenneth Mackenzie, advo- cate, succeeded the Browns by marriage ; but Lord Douglas still retains the patronage, and most of the superiority. Exposed to the havock of border raids, and Annandale lifters, and thus identi- fied with the most memorable revolutions of the nation, it is pro- bable that in early times but a small proportion of our parishion- ers died in their bed. Eminent Men, — Major Learmont, an officer of skill and courage, was an elder of our congregation, and proprietor of Newholm, which is not situated in Peebles-shire, as stated in Sampson's Rid- dle, and in the Parliamentary records of the time, but in this pa- rish. In 1666, when the accidental scuffle in Galloway drove the Covenanters to arms, Learmont, Colonel Wallace, and Veitch, who lived at the hills of Dunsyre, went to Ayrshire to collect their friends. In Echard's History of England, and Law's Memorials, it is stated that Learmont was a tailor, — and Wodrow, instead of cor- recting the averment, merely rebuts the inference, by arguing that even a tailor may become eminent in the art of war. At the battle of Pentland-hills, he, as commander of the horsemen, led on the second attack, in which he carried every thing before him, and al- most captured the Duke of Hamilton. But when Dalziel brought up his whole left wing of cavalry, there being three to one against Learmont, he was borne down. He had his horse shot under him when drawing off his men. But he started back to a fold dike, killed one of the four dragoons who pursued him, and, mounting DOLPHINTON. 57 the dead man's horse, he made good his retreat in spite of the other three. After this unfortunate affair, the major's life and for- tunes were both forfeited in absence. The Laird of Wishaw, his brother-in-law, by paying a composition, obtained the property for the interest of Learmont's family.* Notwithstanding the share he had in these civil wars, he survived the revolution, and died at Newholm in 1693, in the 88th year of his age. Near the door of our church, under a rustic flat stone, without even the initials of his name, the mortal remains of the pious soldier now sleep in the still and peaceful bed where the weary are at rest, and where the prisoner hears no more the voice of his oppressor, f Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers conunence in 1 693, and have been but indifferently kept. A poem, in Latin, by Drum- mond of Hawthomden, is the only ancient paper relating to the parish. Antiquities, — The remains of a camp are yet in a tolerable state of preservation, on the top of Keir-hill; and there are others a few hun- dred yards above the church, at Chesterlees, and also at Ash-hill, and on the farm of Newmill. The British words caer and chesters, both signifying camp, show by whom these stations were occupied.— A tumulus of stones, to the height of four or five feet, witR a regular ring of larger stones, nearly sixty paces in circumference, on the height, about three quarters of a mile south-west of the manse, points out either a place of sacrifice under the Druids, or an en- closure of the summer residence of the native Britons. — A short way east from this station, an ornament of fine gold, resembling the * For sixteen years every endeavour was made to secure the major's person, — but he had a vault dug under ground, which long proved the meuis of safety to him. It entered from a small dark cellar which was used as a pantry, at the foot of the inside stair of the old mansion-house, descended below the foundation of the building, and issued at an abrupt bank of the Medwin, forty yards distant from the house, where a feal dike screened it firom view. When the noise of the cavalry reached the major's attentive ear, the blade of the tongs was applied to a small aperture fitted for the pur- pose of raising a flat stone, which neatly covered the entrance to the vault; and be- fore a door was opened, the Covenanter was safe. Tradition aayn that the man-ser- vant was three times led out blindfolded to be shot, because he would not betray the secret. Learmont having again taken the field at Bothwell Bridge, exposed himself anew to the fury of the persecutors. By the' treachery of a maid-servant, he was at last apprehended, and ordered for execution ; but the sentence of death was commut- ed into imprisonment on the Bass. f As these accounts, handed down for a century and a-half, had become confused, this detail was submitted to an intelligent lady, who was bom at Newholm upwards of ninety years ago. She stotes, that the stones of the vault were, at an early period, taken to build the garden wall ; therefore no trace of the retreat was found when New- holm house was last rebuilt. 58 LANARKSHIRE. snaffle-bit of a horse's bridle, with about forty gold beads, having the impression of a star, was found. — Stone coffins have been laid open in various parts of the parish, and there are innumerable ap- pearances of ^pulchral remains ; but whether they are those of Druidical victims sacrificed at their feasts, or of men slain in battle, cannot well be ascertained. IIL — Population. In 1755, th« population was 902 In 1791, - - . 200 In 1801, - . - 281 In 1811, ... 268 In 1821, ... 286 / Iniadl, - 275yiM.l2»mt^BDdl46fmak^* In 1831 the number of births was, .... IS of deaths, - - . - .7 of marriages, ..... 6 of persons under 16 years of a^ . . 84 upwards of 70, ... 5 of unmarried men and widowers upwards of 50 years o£ »gt, 6 of unmarried women upwards of 45, - . 4 Number of families in the parish, - .... 55 The average number of children in each fiunily, ... 5 The ttumber«c^ families chiefly engaged in agriculture, . . - 85 in trade and manufiustures, > 6 Ck>mparing the population with the extent of soil, there may be about 8| acres of arable land, and nearly dj acres of moor pasture to every individual. The people are generally industrious, sober, contented, and in- telligent. Tlie tenants have every qualification necessary for car- rying on the most improved courses of husbandry of which the district is susceptible. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, or the mechanical arts connected with husbandry, form our only branches of industry. The number of Scots sta- tute acres which have been cultivated is about 2000 ; uncultivat- ed 900, of which 200 or 300 might be reclaimed. There may be upwards of 300 acres in plantation. Rent of Land, — Rent may vary from Is. to L. 4 per acre. Ave- rage of arable land and meadows, L. 1 per acre. Average rent of * The actual population at the taking of the last Government census was 305, but the difference between the two numbers was owing to a contingent population being engaged at the time in making a new road. DOLPHINTON. 59 grazing, L. 3 per cow ; L. 1, 10s. for a two-year-old ; L. 1 for a one-year-old ; and 5s. for a full-grown sheep pastured for the year. The valuation of the parish of Dolphinton is L. 850. Of this amount Richard Mackenzie, of Dolphinton, Deputy-keeper of his Majesty's Signet, has L. 640 ; Charles Cuningham of Newholm, one of the city clerks of Edinburgh, has L. 180 ; and John Allan Wardrope of Garvaldfoot, has L. 30. In 1755» when Dr Webster's census was taken, the real rental of the pariah was near L. 400 Sterling. In 1792, when the last Statistical Account was drawn up, it was about L. 600, and it is now about L. 1700. Rate of Wages. — Labourers' wages, 10s. weekly : Artisans, 2s. 6d. per day. Breeds of Live &ocA.^— The sheep, of which there may be 1000, are, with the exception of a few Cheviots, of the black-faced breed. The cattle, of which there may be 200 milch cows, and 100 young, were formerly of an inferior kind, and kept chiefly for breeding and fattening ; but for some time past the dairy breed of cows have prevailed. In general, they are partly the Ayrshire breed trans- ported, and partly the native breed improved, by better feeding and a skilful crossing. Husbandry, — In few parishes has the state of husbandry been more improved within the memory of man than in Dolphinton. The era of its agricultural revolution may be dated from the ac- cession of Kenneth Mackenzie. Before his time, both the land and its occupiers were proverbially in a wretched condition. The houses were built of mud, and covered with turf. The outfield land was miserably flayed for the supply of fuel, and otherwise en- tirely neglected. The crofts were held in runrig, and under the servitude of sheep-pasturage during the winter. Even after the rest of the country had adopted the turnip and sown grass hus- bandry, the tenants here paid their rent mainly by driving lead to Leith, and purchasing south country meal at Peebles, and carting it to Carnwath. But Mr Mackenzie had the estate parcelled out by two intelligent neighbours intQ farms, so as to render each the most commodious for profitable occupancy, and given not to the highest offerer, but to the applicant who might in all respects be best qualified to stock and farm the lands, according to the stipu- lations. Dolphinton was in consequence much improved in a few years ; and the condition of the live-stock, of the implements of labour, and of the farmers, their families, and servants, have all made rapid advancement. Nor are, these improvements now by 60 LANARKSHiRK. any means stationary. Enclosing, planting, draining, levelling, and liming are yet carried on by all the proprietors. Wet lands, formerly not worth half-a-crown an acre, yield, by being convert- ed into water-meadows, 200, 300, or 400 stones of valuable hay. Till of late years the water-courses were narrow and crooked ; but now they are widened, deepened, and made strait One cut alone for the Medwin, from Newholm to Walston Mill, cost near L. 1000, and afforded the means to the different proprietors inte- rested of laying dry 600 Scotch statute acres, which it was former- ly impossible to drain. In a word, every encouragement is given to improvement by the proprietors : and no proprietors in this dis- trict are adding more every year to the value of their estates. Produce. — The gross amount of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Grain of aU kinds, S500 bolls, at 16s. . - L. 2800 PoUtoes, 2400 bolls, at 6s. . - - 720 Turnip, 12^ tons, at 4fi. - - - 250 Clover hay, 20,000 stones, at 6d. - - - 500 Meadow hay, 20,000 stones, at 4d. - - - S3d Pasture, rating it at L. 3 per cow, and allowing 2 acres for each cow, 200 cows, - - - . . 60000 1000 sheep, at 5s. each, - - - . 250 Young cattle raised, — young horses bred,— >grass seeds, swine, and other articles of which no particular account can be had, sold annuaUy, say 500 •L.5953 L.750 1500 560 560 70 1700 * At first sight, a landlord might reasonably be startled at receiving only L. 1700 of rental from nearly L. 6000 worth of produce, but from this amount there falls to be deducted, For fee and maintenance of 50 servants, say only at L. 1 5 each. For keep of cattle, young and old, 300, at L. 5 each. For seed-corn, 700 bolls, at 16s. For horse's feed, equal to seed, ... For seed-potatoes, at 4 bolls per acre, for 60 acres. For rent, - - - - . . L.5140 There thus appears to be a very small sum, indeed, for carrying the surplus pro- duce of the whole parish to market; keeping up houses, offices, fences, harness, ploughs barrows, carts, &c. — ^for maintaining, clothing, and educating children,— -for sustain- ing all losses by death of live-stock, &ilure of crop, fluctuation of markets, and bank- ruptcy of dealers, — for interest on capital sunk, and remuneration for work done by both husband and wife. Of old, when farming was profitable, three rents was the rule by which land was taken, one to the landlord, one to the farm, and the other to the servants, smith, wright, saddler, &c. But now that a rise has taken place in fees of servants and wages of mechanics, little less than four rents will enable a farmer to " pay day and way." DOLPHINTON. Gl V. — Parochial Economy. Markets — Means of Communication. — In 1693 an act of Par- liament was obtained for holding a weekly market and two annual fairs in Dolphinton ; and formerly there were corn, lint, and waulk- mills, with an inn at both ends of the parish ; but now there is no markets, fairs, village, post-office, public-house, mill, or manufac- tory of any kind. There may be two and a-half miles of turnpike- road, and five miles of parish-roads. The communication between Glasgow and Berwick might be much facilitated by avoiding the ridges of EUsrighill and Corsoncone, and by bringing the road up the Tairth and down the Medwin. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is too small for the congrega- tion, and of a homely exterior, but it is comfortable within. Our records bear that, prior to 1650, the glebe was far from the church and ^^ the gate to it foul," and that there was no manse for the mi- nister, who had flitted five times in the memory of man. A manse and glebe of eight acres were then designed at the kirk style. Soon after they were moved to Bankhead, and in 1718 to the present site. The present manse was built in 1770, and repaired and en- larged in 1814, and again in 1828^ so that it is now one of the best in the country. The glebe contains fourteen imperial acres. * In 1275, the whole spiritual revenues of Dolphinton were estimated at L, 3, 6s. 8d. Sterling. In 156 1 , they were let at L. 4, Ss. 4d. At this, the pe- riod of the Reformation, the stipend paid to the officiating minister amounted to L. 1, Ss. Ofd. Sterling. Prior to 1729, it was about L. 30 ; but it was soon after augmented to L. 47, 4s. 5d. ; and by the Government it is now raised to L. 150, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The parish seems from 'the earliest period to have been sup- plied with a church and priesthood, conformable to the existing establishment John de Saint Andrews, rector of this church, wit- nessed two charters, granted by Allan Bishop of Argyle at Paisley in September 1253. John Silvester, parson of Dolphinton, La- narkshire, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, in August 1296. At the reformation from popery, John Cockbum, brother of Sir James Cockburn of Skirling, was rector, and had been presented to the living by the well known Earl of Bothwell. In February 1561-2, Cockbum reported that the revenues of the parsonage * In BageiDont*s roll, Dolphinton ia taxed L. 4, being a tenth of the estimated value of its spiritual revenues. 62 r.ANARKSHinK. were then let at L. 50 yearly, from which there were paid L. 13, 8s. 8d. Scots yearly to the minister who served in the' church, and L. d, 6s. 8d. Scots, to the Archbishop of Glasgow, for pro^ curations and synodials. At the second reformation, viz. from prelacy, Alexander Sommerville, minister of this parish, acted a prominent part At the earliest stage of the struggle, he with Henderson and others, resisted the orders- of their archbishops to use the liturgy. When charged to obey on pain of imprisonmeot and ejection as a rebel, he supplicated the privy-council, and got the diligence suspended. He was appointed moderator of the La- nark presbytery in the place of the constant moderator for the bishops. He was also nominated one of the commissioners to at- tend the tables at Edinburgh. In 1638, he represented the pres- bytery at the memorable Glasgow assembly, and opened the busi- ness by preaching before an immense congregation, all armed with ** whingers." The presbytery of Biggar was, through his influence, erected in 1644. ' He died about the year 1649, and was succeed- ed, on 1st April 1650, by James Donaldson, who was ejected from his living in 1663 for nonconformity to prelacy. Immediately after the suspension of Donaldson, William Dogood ofiiciated as an Episcopalian clergjman. He was succeeded by Alexander Dour glas on the 28th September 1675. He went to Douglas, and was succeeded on the 24th April 1679 by Andrew Hamilton. He was succeeded by James Crookshanks, who was instituted 17th May 1684, and deposed for profane swearing. Donaldson was reinstated in 1688. John Sandilands was ordained January 1693; John San- dilands, his son, October 1711 ; John Bowie, May 1717; Thomas MacCurty, November 1770; James Ferguson, August 1773; John Gordon, March 1781 ; Robert Russell, March 1815; John Aiton, April 1825. There were formerly four dissenting churches within reach. Of these two are totally deserted, and the other two had been long without any stated pastors till of late. The average number of communicants is about 130, and of attenders on public worship 100. During the last seven years there have been five charitable collections, amounting in all to about L. 30. Education. — The school and dweUing-house are very comfort- able and commodious. The salary is L. 26, and the wages yield about L. 15. William Brown, about 1658, mortified four acres of land, now worth L. 8, for behoof of the schoolmaster, and 1000 merks, the interest of which is paid him for educating poor scholars. 4 DOLPHINTON. 63 He mortified 200 marks, the interest to be paid to the poor. He also mortified two acres of land to the minister, which has not been possessed by him since the revolution. Mr Bowie laid out 8000 merks for the lands of Stonypath ; and in 1759 he mortified them to the minister and kirk-session, to be disposed of as follows : 100 merks to the schoolmaster for educating 20 scholars ; 100 merks for educating any lad of a bright genius, to be allowed for six years, whom failing, to pay apprentice-fees ; 50 merks, either to be distributed among the poor of the parish, or to be laid out tn buying books for the poor scholars ; and 50 merks to the mini- ster, with all the other profits arising from the lands, to compen- sate for his trouble as factor. Poor. — There are 4 paupers, who receive at present L. 17 per annum. The whole yearly expenditure of the kirk-session is not less than L. 25. In 1755, the average of the ordinary collec- tions on Sabbath was Is. In 1792 it was Is. 6d. ; and for the last ten years it has averaged nearly Ss. lOd. The interest at four per cent of L. 250, invested on bond, yields L. 10. These sums, to- gether with lis. Id. being interest on Brown's mortification, and what is derived from proclamations and the use of the mortcloth, may amount to about L.21. Library. — In summer 1825, a parochial library was established, which, by liberal contributions in aid of the funds, now contains a considerable number of useful and well-read books. March 1834. PARISH OF DUNSYRE. PRESBYTERY OF BI66AR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. MR WILLIAM MEEK, MINISTER.* GEORGE C. RENTON, ASSISTANT. L — Topography and Natural History. ISfame and Boundaries. — Various etymologies have been given of the name. The most probable is, that it is compounded of Dvn and Seer^ the hill of the prophet The place seems to have been originally the site of a Druidical temple. The summit of the water-level, at the upper end of the parish, where the stream, by a single turf, might be sent either to the Clyde or the Tweed, to the Atlantic or the German Ocean, is 735 feet above high water at the Broomielaw at Glasgow. The parish is bounded by Dolphinton and Walston on the south-east and south ; Linton on the east and north ; West Calder on the north ; and Carnwath on the west. The extent of surface is 17.25 square miles, or 1 1071 imperial acres. Its form is nearly a parallelogram, having its longest sides lying south and north. Topographical Appearances. — The range of the Pentlands, which commences in the vicinity of Edinburgh, may be said to terminate with Dunsyre hill, after extending to the length of twenty miles. This hill is precipitous and rugged, composed of the same stone as Arthur Seat and Salisbury Craigs. It rises about 500 feet above the water level already stated; 1235 feet above high water at Glasgow. From it a range of hills verges towards the west, which gradually slopes into a flat towards Carnwath parish. In the valley betwixt Dunsyre and Walston ranges, runs the water Medwin, through a tract of flat ground about a mile in breadth and three in length, which in that.distance falls only about nine feet. There is a very large cave on the hill Craigengar, on the north- eastern boundary of this parish, which is said to have been a chief rendezvous of the gipsies or tinkers in this part of the country. • This Account was drawn up by the Hev. Mr Meek. DUNSYRE. 65 Meteorology, — In summer, Fahrenheit's thermometer averages from 60° to 70°, and in winter from 40° to 44° ; but in frost the range is from 22° to 34°. It has sometimes been as low as 16% but very seldom. The general range of the barometer is betwixt 29 and 30, so that the average may be stated at 2d.5. It has been as high as 30.6, and as low as 28.5 ; but these are extremes which it rarely approaches. The valley of Dunsyre lies almost due east and west, having on each side a range of hills. The rainbow often exhibits a most beautiful and imposing appearance in this valley. This generally happens where the sun is in the west. Three irises are usually seen: I have beheld three entire, and the fourth imperfectly formed. The most prevailing winds in the parish are those from the west. They often sweep the valley with great violence, being confined by the ranges of the mountains. The soft freestone with which the houses are generally built becomes damp several hours and even days previous to a storm of wind and rain ; a certain in* dication of a change of weather. As a symptom of the dampness of the cUmate, the doors in the interior of the houses frequently stand covered with drops of damp, which run in streams to the floor. This must arise in a great measure from the extent of flat marshy ground on the banks of the river, where the water is al- most in a stagnant state, and renders the river in many places im- passable. Rheumatism consequently prevails, and there are very few who escape its excruciating ravages. Nervous disorders, pro- bably originating in the same cause, are also common. Hydrography. — There is abundance of fine springs in this pa- rish. One which is in great esteem issues from a rock of whin- stone, on the face of Dunsyre-hill, and seems to be affected neither by sunamer drought nor winter rains. There is another very abundant spring on the glebe, called the Curate's well. It con- sists of two circular holes filled with soft sand, from which the water issues; and all around, the ground is composed of the hfiundest clay and graveL At intervals of five or ten minutes, it bubbles up at three apertures, as if it emitted air. There is ano- ther remarkable stream at Easton. It flows in great abundance, and if wood be left for any length of time in its waters, it becomes encrusted over with a white substance. It appears to issue from a red freestone rock, — ^as this seems to lie in a thick bed all around, three or four feet from the surface ; or perhaps from limestone which may be below the freestone. There is another fine spring LANARK. £ 66 LANARKSHIRE. on the farm of Auston Park, consecrated to St Bride, and re- markable for the abundant flow and purity of its waters. It ap- pears to rise from a bed of sand, upon approaching a lower seam of clay and gravel. On the verge of the marsh, there are many springs deeply charged with iron-ore, and seeming to rise either from that mixture or from coal. The only loch in the parish, the Craneloch, lies in an ele- vated situation in the moors, — upwards of 300 feet above the water level. It is about a mile in circumference, surrounded with marshy grounds and skirted with heath. All around, nothing is presented to the eye but a bleak inhospitable desert. The water is of . a dark mossy colour, of a pretty high temperature, and very deep. It abounds with pike and perch, which are allowed to enjoy their solitary wat.ers unmolested. Medwin is the chief stream in the parish, and rises in the north- east corner of it, near the foot of the hill Craigengar. It pursues a southerly direction for about six miles, when it suddenly turns to the west. It is here joined by a stream, called West Water, fully as large as itself, which rises amongst the range of hills in the northern side of the parish. It continues to run at a very slow rate along the vale of Dunsyre, forming the boundary be- twixt it and Dolphinton, and then that of Walston. Its greatest width is about thirty feet, its greatest depth about ten. It runs shallow and rapid in some places, but in general, from the flat- ness of the ground, its motion is slow and inert. Geology and Mineralogy. — Dunsy re-hill is composed partly of blue whinstone; partly of strata of freestone, dipping about an angle from 7° to 10° towards the north. The range which diverges from Dunsyre-hill contains deep beds of pure limestone, resembling gray marble; some of them eight and even sixteen feet deep. These beds are frequently cut across by dikes 'of clay, gravel, and loose blocks of the same material. In the channels of some of the streams which run down from the high ground are beds of what is denominated Coston limestone. This is apparently a mixture of sand and lime, which has been subjected to heat, and is extreme- ly hard. Some traces of iron-ore are to be found in these last-mentioned rocks in close union with the stone ; and copper-ore in some places has been discernible. Coal has also been considered as lying under these strata, and attempts have been made to dig it, but without success. A fair trial has never been made. The line of 3 DUNSYRE. 67 the seams which run across the island passes through Dunsyre to the east It has also been wrought about a mile to the west, and runs on to Douglas, and passes through Ayrshire to the Mull of Cantyre. Calc^spar is discernible in many parts in the parish. There are various alluvial deposits in this parish. At the foot of those streamlets which descend from the- high grounds are se- veral acres of fine soil carried upon the flat marshy land below. This soil is generally a mixture of clay and sand, of a reddish co- lour, and bears most excellent crops. The river has also, by being often flooded, deposited on its banks sand to the height, in some places, of two or three feet above the surrounding bog. This large flat is mostly composed of moss, — in some places eleven and even sixteen feet in depth. In digging down the one-half of that depth, it is found to become soft, and the water and sludge rise to the mouth of the pit. It lies in a kind of basin, whose bottom is adhe- sive clay. Branches and trunks of trees are everywhere deposited in it, and these are generally composed of hazel, alder, and willow. ' Soil. — The soil in this parish, especially in the eastern part, may be said to be generally sandy, and the grounds appear to have been, at one time, traversed by currents of water. Towards the west, the subsoil seems to consist of the debris of various hills ; among which are found stones of all kinds mixed with sand and clay, and occasionally transparent pebbles. These stones appear to have been rounded by attrition. The light sandy grounds in a few years are covered with heath, if not kept clear by the plough ; and the other soils become foul with rushes, paddock-pipes, and the coarse bog grasses. In many places the Yorkshire fog, as it is called, covers all the surface, particularly if inclined to moss. Zoology. — On this head, it may be only mentioned, that the gannet, or sea-gull, frequents this parish, especially when a storm of wind and rain is threatened. This appears rather singular in a parish situate nearly thirty miles from the sea coast. The lap- wing also migrates in flocks to this point during the summer sea- son, and has been known to continue during winter. The eagle is sometimes seen on the hills to the north of Dunsyre, particularly on Craigengar. There is plenty of grouse in these moors, and a few black game. The gray plover is everywhere to be seen. Wild ducks are numerous in the marshes ; and during a storm the parish is often visited with flocks of wild geese, to the amount of fifty or sixty in a covey. Medwin is a fine trouting stream. The trout are for the most 68 LANARKSHIRE. part red, of a considerable size, and reckoned superior in quality to those of either Clyde or Tweed. Pike of a very large size is often found in the deep parts of the river. IL — Civil History. Historical Notices, — Many distinguished characters have been proprietors in this parish. So early as the year 1147, William de Sommerville, the third of that noble family, afterwards Lord Som- merville, married Margaret, daughter of Gualter, who is designed of Newbigging, and Lord of Dunsyre. Sir Patrick Hepburn of Hales was, during his father's life, designed of Dunsyre, in the year 1450, who, on account of his great merit and fortune, was by King James IIL created a Baron or Lord of Parliament, ante anntnn 1456. Adam Second Lord Hales succeeded his father, during whose life he had been designed Adam Hepburn of Dun- syre. His successors were created Earls of Bothwell on the 5th of October 1488, and the last of the family was created Duke of Orkney by Queen Mary, whom he had afterwards the honour to marry. Archibald the Sixth Earl of Angus exchanged his castle and lands of hermitage in Liddesdale, with Hepburn Earl of Bothwell, for the castle of Bothwell in Clydesdale ; and hence this property fell into the hands of the Douglases. It has since belonged to va- rious individuals. Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart of Lee and Camwath, Ba- ronet, is now proprietor of almost the whole parish. The valua- tion of the parish, as fixed in 1733, amounted to L. 1450 Scots money ; of which Sir Norman Lockhart has L. 1383, 13s. 4d., and the remainder L. 66, 6s. 8d. belongs to the Rev. Mr Aiton, which was bequeathed by the late Rev. Mr Bowie, minister of Dolphin- ton, to the minister serving the cure of that parish. Parochial Registers,— T\ie earliest registers of the parish are dated June 7, 1690. By minute of that date, Mr Robert Skene, curate of the parish, is required to give up the kirk-box and key. They have been regularly kept till the year 1712. An interval then occurs till 1760 ; after which they are regularly kept to the present day. Antiquities, — The castles generally denominated fortalices, which were stationed in the valley of Dunsyre, establish the fact that the parish was well inhabited in early times. At Easter Sax- on there were no fewer of these than five. At Todholes, in the west DUNSYRE. 69 end of the parish, stood one of considerable strength, with a fossa around it There were castles of the same construction at Westhall Hills, Auston; and about 300 yards from the church stood the castle of Dunsyre. It had a vault on the ground story, with two apart- ments above, which were approached by a circular staircase at one of the comers. About eighty or a hundred years ago, the Baron baillie held his courts in this tower, and in the vaujit were kept the thumbkins and the boots for torture. On the death of the last baron, who is represented to have exercised a tyrannical sway, ths people of the village met, and destroyed these odious engines. Many Roman reliques have been found here. The line by which the army of Agricola reached the camp at Cleghom lies through the parish of Dunsyre, and the route can be traced up the county of Tweeddale. The entrance to the glen or valley where Dunsyre is situate is called the Garvald or Garrel ; it forms the most natural and easy communication betwixt the east and west of the plain. Through this rugged pass lies the Roman line, mark- ed out by a dike of earth. Several cairns occur here and in the neighbourhood; in some of which urns have been found. One of these is about 6 inches in diameter. It is composed of burnt clay, and rudely carved over. Its under part is narrow, of the shape of the human heart, and projects from the depth of 7 inches about 2^ towards the mouth.* Among the many places to which the champions of the Refor- mation fled for safety, Dunsyre was one of the chief. On the con- fines of this parish, where it borders with Lothian and Tweeddale, is a deep ravine, in the centre of which there is a laige collection of stones. This deep rugged spot bears the name of Rear's Kirke, which, in all probability, it received from one of the covenanting ministers. Covenanters. — One of the most celebrated preachers, Mr Wil- liam Veitch, was tenant in Westhills, which he was forced to aban- don after the battle of Pentlands in 1667. He was the person de- puted by the council of the covenanting army, while they were lying at Colinton, to go to Edinburgh to learn some intelligence of im- portance. He accomplished this mission with great difficulty, but without securing the slightest advantage. On returning, he was ac- cidentally surrounded by a troop of the enemy's cavalry, from which he escaped with difficulty, and fled to Dunsyre. Mr Veitch after- * Screral other ca'rns and urn» are noticed iu the original MS. 70 LANARKSHIRE. wards escaped to England; and after the Revolution became minis- ter of Peebles, and thereafter of Dmnfries. * , In 1669, Mr Donald Cargill, one of the most distinguished friends of freedom, whose persecutions were as remarkable as his conduct was courageous, preached his last sermon on Dunsyre common. He went, though contrary to the advice of his friends, to Andrew Fisher's^ at Covington Mill, where next day he was seized by Irvine of Bon- shaw. He was treated in the most ignominious manner ; his back was turned to the horse's head, his feet tied below its belly; and in this manner he was led through the streets of Lanark. He was afterwards hanged in the Grassmarket of Edinburgh, his head struck off and -fixed on the Netherbow port. There are several places in the moor which still go by the name oi preaching holes^ and which formed the retreat of the persecuted preachers. Into these they generally retired, while the congrega- tions dispersed at the approach of the persecutors. III. — Population. By the return made to Dr Webster about 1750, the population was 959 In 1783, ... - - 400 1791, - - - - 860 1815, according to census taken by minister, - 312 1821, - - - - - 290 1831, . - - . 885 The decrease has been owing to the union of small farms, and the dislike which the farmers entertain towards what are generally denominated cottars. 1 . Number of families in the parish, .... 57 of fiunilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - 26 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 19 2. Number ofunmarried men, bachelors or widower^, upwards of 50 years of age, IS of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, • 18 3. The average number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, . - 6 of deaths, .....$ of marriages, . . . • 2| 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age. . - 105 upwards of 70, ... 7 No nobility, nor families of independent fortune reside in the pa- rish. There are only two proprietors, and both their properties are worth upwards of L. 50 annually. • Sec notice of M^or Learmonth in Account of Dophinton. DUNSYRE. 71 IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Eamomy. There are in the poiah, cultivated and occasionaUy in tillage, upwards of 9000 acres. Conatantly in pasture» many of which are waste and of very little value, 8000 Oy b ie of being improved by a judicious application of capital, 2000 Under wood, ...... .30 UndEhrided commoo, ...... q All the wood has been planted ; and, from being constantly cut without any new plantation, will very soon cease to exist altoge- ther. The trees are Scotch fir and larch. Rate of Wages. — Farm men-servants receive for summer and winter, being generally hired by the year, from L. 8 to L. 12, be- sides bed and board : females during the summer, L. 3, and dur- ing the winter from L. 2 to L. 2, 10s., bed and board. If the men are noiarried, they generally receive about L. 10 wages, and a free house, with a certain quantity of fuel driven. Masons' wages are about 2s. 6d. a-day, and a carpenter's nearly the same. Breeds of Live Stock, — Considerable attention has been paid to the breeds of sheep and cattle. The Cheviot are bought in some instances when hogs, and afterwards fattened on the turnips. The black-faced are the i staple breed, of which there are no fewer than 150 scores in the parish. They are also reared for fatten- ing on turnips. The Ayrshire breed of cattle is generally culti- vated, and a cross-breed of heavier stock is annuallv reared for draughting and feeding on turnips. Particular attention has been paid to the dairy. The number of milch cows kept by the farmer is generally betwixt 20 and 30. The milk-houses are fitted up in the neatest manner, so as to pre- serve the milk fresh and clean. The usual method is to make butter, which is salted and sold about Martinmas. Of the skim- med milk, cheeses are made, which are sold about the same time. Dmilop cheeses are also made, and rival any from Ayrshire. Husbandry. — The fourth rotation is that which is generally practised, as the soil will scarcely admit of a heavier cropping. Turnips are reared in great abundance, and few parishes can boast of so fine crops. The Medwin has lately been straightened, and will thus afford a facility for draining the surrounding bog. Draining has been car- ried on to a considerable extent ; and irrigation was first practised in this parish in the upper ward of Clydesdale, and has been im- proving constantly for the last twenty years. The late William 72 LANARKSHIRE. Brown, tenant at Mains, was the first to introduce the improved system of husbandry into this parish. Leases are granted for nineteen years. The farm-buildings are in general commodious, and in good repair. But the enclosures are few, and in a very indifferent condition. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domcstk animaU> ..... . L. 3864 Ofpototoes, - - - - - 270 00 Of turnips, ..... 1940 Of hay, whether meadow or cultivated, - • - 750 Of land in pasture, rating at L. 3 per cow or full-grown ox graced, or that may be grazed for the season, - - 978 Of land in pasture, rating at 5s. per ewe or full-grown sheep pastured, or that may be pastured for the year, ... 1250 Total yearly value of raw produce, - L. 9052 \) V. — Parochial Economy. Markei-Totvnsy 8fc. — The nearest market -towns are Camwath and Biggar : the former, about 6 miles from the village of Dun- syre, where there is a weekly market held on Friday, which may be said to be the chief resort for farm produce from this parish. Biggar is about 8 miles distant, and is attended from this parish principally for seed-corn in spring on Thursday, every week, and its fairs are frequented for horses, cattle, and lambs. Linton, however, in Tweeddale, which is about 6 miles distant, constitutes the principal sheep and wool market. Village, — Dunsyre village consists of a population of about 50 souls, chiefly composed of tradesmen, for the accommodation of the parish, — smiths, masons, wrights, tailors, shoemakers, &c. There was once a considerable village at Weston. But now the remaining cottages are chiefly inhabited by the servants and fami- lies belonging to the farms of that name. Means of Communication, — Dunsyre keeps up a weekly commu- nication with Edinburgh by means of carriers ; and the parish is traversed three or four times a-week by carriers from the vicinity of the metropolis. They purchase butter, eggs, and fowls, which are generally sold at the Saturday market. There is no post-oflice in the parish. Camwath is the chief post-town for Dunsyre. A runner from the post-office at Linton to Roberton, in Dolphinton, might be had twice a-week for L. 2 DUNSYRE. 73 yearly. Thisarrangement would serve three parishes, and pay back more than the outlay. Ecclesiattical State. — The parish church stands on a tumulus or mound, on the northern banks of the Medwin, and is quite con- veniently situate for the inhabitants. At what time the church was built is uncertain. About 1750 it was thatched vnith heath ; as it then appears to have received for the first time a slate rood At the Reformation, it had been built of the bam construction with the materials of an old Gothic building. In 1820 it under- went a complete repair; and a Gothic tower was erected at the east end, and on each side is a lofty Gothic window. It is seated to accommodate betwixt 240 and 250 sitters. The seats are all free. The heritors divided them amongst their tenants in proportion to their rentals ; and allotted a certain proportion to the village. The manse was built in 1756, and was pretty well repaired in 1815. It has now, however, become ruinous, and requires either to be rebuilt, or very thoroughly repaired. There is also a defi- ciency in the accommodation of office-houses. The glebe consists of fifteen English acres, exclusive of the site of the manse, and offices, and garden. It was subdivided and enclosed with stone dikes, and hedges, and rows of trees, by the present incumbent, and, being well drained, may be worth L. 30 or Lfo 40 annually. The church or linng was gifted to the Abbot and Convent of Kelso, betwixt the years 1180 and 1199, by Helias brother to Jocelyne, bishop of Glasgow, and held by that Convent from the twelfth century till the Reformation. This parish was a rectory of the monks of Kelso ; but the revenue they drew from thence till the year 1316, was not above L. 5, 6s. 8d. annually. At the Reformation the revenue increased to L. 20. In 1791-2 the sti- pend was L. 100, exclusive of manse and glebe, which last was es- timated at L. 10 a-year. In 181 1, when the Legislature augmented the livings below L. 150 to that sum, the living of Dunsyre on an average of the seven previous years was worth L. 114, 17s. 11 ^^^d. inclusive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. As the seven years average was taken when grain was very high, the deficiency in succeeding years became great ; and another act of Parliament was passed in 1824 to remedy the eviL Still, however, although a smaU addition was then made, it seldom happens, from the reduced price of grain, that the stipend rises to L. 150. It may be worth while to mention, that the minister was titular of the teinds, and still 74 LANARKSHIRE. continues to receive annually 15s. 2Jd. as feu-duty from the lands called Kirklands. There are no chapels or dissenting-houses in the parish ; and hence the parish church is generally well attended. The average number of communicants is about 170. The yearly average of collections for the last seven years, in- cluding fines, mortcloth, interest, &c, is L. 19, 2s. 6|d. Education. — There is only one parochial school in the parish. Latin is taught. The salary is about L. 28. The schoolmaster has the legal accommodation, though it is supposed there is defi- ciency of garden or glebe. There are no individuals in this parish who have not been taught from their infancy to read and write. Friendly Society. — A friendly society was instituted about the year 1799 : it continues, and has for its object to support the sick or disabled members, and to assist in the funeral expenses of hus- band or wife. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial assistance for the last seven years is 5?, and the sum annually allotted to each is about L. 6. The funds arising from collections, fines, mortcloths, proclamations, and interest of money lent out to the road trustees at five per cent., in general cover the expenditure ; but when found insufficient, recourse has been had to voluntary contributions. There was at one time an extreme aversion to receive parochial aid, and there are still many in necessitous circumstances who would feel degraded by accept- ing it. But the spirit of independence is gradually wearing away, and many consider it not only as not degrading, but talk of it as a right given to them by the law of the land. Alehouses. — There are no houses of this description in the pa- rish. Fuel. — The fuel generally used is coal, which is driven from a distance of twelve miles, and costs about 12s. a ton. A great deal of peat is dug. In the moors or in the marsh on the banks of the Medwin, it is to be had in great abundance, but coal is consi- dered more profitable. Miscellaneous Observations. When the former Statistical Account was published, the modem system of husbandry was little known, and as little practised. Nay, those who had the genius or the hardihood to deviate from the old beaten path were branded as visionaries. This, however, is not DUNSYRE. 75 the case in the present day : the farmers are active, industrious, and prosperous. The great want in this parish is shelter, — the farms, for the most part, being quite exposed to the sweep of the east and west winds. There is also a great deficiency in draining. About two years ago the Medwin, which ran in innumerable windings, was straightened for the distance of three miles. This work, however, has not been sufficiently done, as the water at the under part of the cut overflows its banks, in consequence of a mill-dam, which keeps back the water. This should be entirely removed to render the straightening effectual. Were the flat through which the cut runs sufficiently drained by ditches into the river, there would be recovered not less than 400 acres of the best land in the parish, — all of a deep rich water-borne soil, composed of decayed vegetables, and likely to be worth more than one-half of all the land under cultivation. At present the principal road nms from the one end of the pa- rish to the other nearly parallel with the river, at the distance of half a mile, and at the east end joins the public road from Edin- burgh to Biggar by a very circuitous route. Whereas, were it to be continued straight east through the Garvald, to join the same road near Linton, it would open up a most advantageous commu- nication. Revised April 1834. PARISH OF CARNWATH. PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR, THE REV. JAMES WALKER, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Extent^ S^c* — The parish of Carnwath is situated in the upper ward of Lanarkshire, 27 miles S. £. of Glasgow, and 25 miles S. W. of Edinburgh. In some of the old writings belong- ing to the family of Loekhart of Lee, who is now the proprietor of the estate, I find it frequently written Cairnwath. The name is descriptive of the situation of the place, as there is a cairn im- mediately west of the house and village of Carnwath, (which will be noticed more particularly afterwards,) and near the bottom of that cairn there is a wath^ which, as my predecessor remarks, means in the Saxon language ^ford. Such is probably the derivation of the name. The oldest people in the place report, that the waih oxford at the cairn was almost the only pass across the bum of Carnwath at all practicable before it was confined by a cut being made within a narrower space, and bridges thrown over it The parish is very extensive, being 12 miles from south to north, and 8 from east to west. Its form is pretty regular, (an oblong square,) and it is bounded on the west by the parish of Carstairs ; on the east by Dunsyre ; on the south by the parishes of Libberton and Pettinain ; and on the north by West Calder. Topographical Appearances, — There are no mountains, or even hills, which deserve the name, though there are two ranges of high ground which run through the parish, but which, even at their highest point, do not exceed 1200 feet above the level of the sea. The low and flat lands consist either of flow-moss, of which we have still a large extent, or holm, which stretches along the banks of Clyde and Med win, marking the south boundary of the parish. The climate is such as is experienced throughout Scotland at the same altitude above the level of the sea, — about 600 feet being the lowest elevation of any part of the parish ; and though there are still cases of rheumatism to be found among the inhabitants, they are certainly fewer than they were, owing, no doubt, to the drainings which have been executed to a great extent in every CARNWATH. 77 part of the parish within the last forty years. * No distemper, indeed, seems to prevail more than another, or can be attributed to the influence of the climate. Hydrography. — There are several mineral springs in different parts of the parish, but I am not aware that any of them have been analyzed, or have attracted particular notice. — The only loch worthy of notice is what is called the White Loch, immediately west of the village of Camwath. It covers about 80 acres, is of considerable depth in some places, and finely wooded on the south and west sides. It is more than a mile in circumference. A small kind of perch is the only fish found in it, and it is chiefly remark- able as the great rendezvous of the curlers of the district around. Besides eight or nine rinks^ as they are called, each rink consist- ing of eight individuals, whom the parish supplies, and who are to be seen contending with each other in generous rivalship, the curlers from other parishes also frequently meet here to decide the contest, and sometimes upwards of 200 combatants have been arrayed against each other on the slippery bosom of the loch.f Mineralogy. — On the north side of Dippool, coal, iron, and lime- stone are all to be found. The ridge of ground immediately north of its banks is chiefly filled with limestone, which is wrought exten- sively, and is the great depot from which this useful manure is sup*> plied to the surrounding country for many miles. It rises gradually from the moss on the north bank of the above rivulet, and which is generally improved to the extent of half a mile ; and the whole of the south acclivity from Westshiel to Eastsidewood has been par- tially wrought. The metals on this side are disposed as under : After ah'm'n^, as it is called, of from 20 to 27 feet, comes the lime- stone, generally about 6 feet in thickness,»-and under it, again, is found a seam of coal of 18g inches, which is generally sufficient for burning the limestone. All these dip towards the north or top of the ridge, while on the opposite, or north side, from the top of the * I IwTe observed more cases of cancer in the lip than of any other disease ; but these are not to be ascribed to any thing peculiar to the climate, but to the smoking of tobacco, and, especially, to the manner which I have seen that done. I once went into a house where a man was in the last stage of a disease of the kind. He was BtiU able to take his pipe, and, to my horror, I saw him hand it, when done, to one of his friends, who again handed it to another ; and both seemed to enjoy it as much as if it had never oome in contact with such a disease. f In the end of the year 18S8, a curling club was founded in the parish, un- der the aumioes of Aleiander Maedonald Lockhart, Esq. It consists of sixteen m ember s , aU resident, or bom within the barony of Carnwath. The club can, by means of its members, have two games going on at once, each member playing two stones. This is not the common way of playing the game in this country, where each player appears upon the ice with only one stone. Sixteen people are thus brought into close contact ; but the noise and conftision thus created are far from adding to the beauty or interest of the game. 78 LANARKSniUE. ridge to Cleugh-burn, where the limestone shows itself in great abundance, the dip is to the south. Trotibles^ as they are here called, frequently show themselves in the limestone, and add greatly to the expense of working it These troubles are from 4 to 6 feet in thickness, imbedded in the limestone, and they frequently cut it off altogether, but make no change in the coal or sandstone : and when cut out, which is done with great labour and expense, the lime- stone is found of equal quality with what was formerly obtained. They are formed of a substance here called Sklut^ which, though unable to withstand the influence of the sun or the action d{ the atmosphere, which soon crumbles it to pieces, resists the opera- tion of fire : hence they are generally employed for building the sides of the kilns in which the lime is burned. To give some idea of the disadvantage arising from these troubles^ it may be mention- ed, that the range of working at one of the most extensive lime- works on the south side of the ridge is about forty yards, and in that space one or more of these troubles are always met with. On the north side of the ridge above-mentioned, down to Cleugh* burn, presenting an extent of ground greater than the south side, the limestone is equally abundant, but, being unaccompanied with coal, has probably from this cause never been wrought to the same extent. On crossing Cleugh-burn, an immense field of coal presents itself, and from thence to the northern boundary of the parish, it is be- lieved that an inexhaustible store of this, as well as other minerals, is laid up. The coal has been wrought for time immemorial, but only partially, till about fifty years ago, when two brothers of the name of Wilson, Swedish merchants in London, commenced an iron foundry near a place called Forkens, and in a few years Wil- sontown rose into existence. Wilsontotvn Iron-works. — In the year 1779 the Messrs Wilsons commenced their preparatory operations for the iron-works, and, in 1780-81, began the manufacture of pig iron. The difficulties they had to contend with were numerous and various. The coal, where previously wrought, was found not well adapted to their pur- pose ; and though they had a sufficient supply at a greater depth of the very best kind, yet, from the quantity of water in the pits opened, and which (from the direction of the strata and the nature of the surface rendering it impossible to obtain a level) could only be cleared away by means of horses, they were forced to give up the attempt^ and to return to the coal where they first started. With the supply which this field afforded, the work went on with varied CARNWATH. 79 success, till in 1787 another furnace was built, and another blowing- engine of greater power was set agoing. In 178S-89, a steam- engine was erected to draw off the water from the minerals, and a large field of coal, extending both ways along the bearing of the strata, was thus obtained. The work was no# carried on with spirit, the weekly produce of the furnace increased, and, occasionally, a second furnace was set to work not only pig-iron, but great quantities of ballast for ships, and of shot, from 4 to 18 pounders inclusive. Pipes of various kinds, &c were made. In 1790-91, an extensive forge for the manufacture of blooms was erected; but this had not been at work above one year, when, unhappily, a mis- understanding arose among the partners, and a law-suit took place, the issue of which was a dissolution of the copartnery ; and, under the authority of the Court of Session, there was a sale of the works, lands, &c. which belonged to the Company. John Wilson Senior, of London, one of the former partners, became the purchaser. During the dispute the foi^ had been stopt, and only one furnace was kept going; but after the sale in 1798» the forge was again put to work with an addition of two hammers, and the two furnaces again brought into full operation. In a little time, too, a rolling-mill, on a most extensive scale, and fitted to roll and slit all kinds and sizes of iron, was built, and set to work ; a powerful blowing engine was erected ; and the weekly produce of the furnaces, which before this seldom exceeded twenty, was now increased to forty tons. A lease of Climpy coal was also at this time obtained, and a village built there, for the accommodation of the workmen. A chapel, con- nected with the Relief, was built in the middle of that village, and a minister ordained by the Relief presbytery ; in a word, in every department prosperity seemed to smile. The coal and iron-stone mines, the furnaces, the forges, the rolling-mill, the shops of smiths, carpenters, engineers, and mill-wrights, all were crowded with workmen. At the census taken in 1807, there were depending on the work for their support upwards of 2000 souls, and the monthly payments to the various work-people were not less than L.dOOO. This seeming prosperity, however, soon vanished ; for in 1807-8 the company became embarrassed, a severe depression in the iron tradeincreasedthisembarrassment, and made it fatal; and, in 1812, the works were stopt, and the whole population turned adrift upon the world. From that period, till 1821, they continued unoccu- pied, the machinery, of course, rusting, and the houses falling into ruins, when they were purchased by Mr Dixon of the Calder iron- works, whose son, Mr William Dixon, is now the proprietor. k 80 LANARKSHIRE. The failure of the Wilsontown iron-works gave a dreadful blow to the prosperity of that part of the country in which they are ^- tuated, and was felt not only in this parish, but in all the parishes around. It closed a market to the proprietors and tenants for al- most every kind of produce they had for sale, and which they found ever ready and convenient Many of the labourers, too, had all their hard-earned savings embarked with the company, and were in a moment reduced to a state of beggary ; and of the old and infirm, many who hoped to spend their old age in comfort and in- dependence, were added to the paupers' roll. Even to this day, indeed, the parish feels, in this way, the effect produced by the failure ; for though many of those who were thus ruined in their circumstances are dead, yet not a few still remain to swell our as- sessment. In a word, it may fairly be questioned whether the erec- tion of Wilsontown iron-works was advantageous to the parish or the contrary. They no doubt gave an impetus, while they flourish- ed, to improvements, which probably otherwise would never have been made; but there can be as little doubt that they have brought burdens on the heritors which they would never have been called to bear. As happens in most cases, where such a population has been collected, the morals of the people have also suffered severely, and the religious character of the former inhabitants has been exchanged for indifference and lukewarmness. But of this hereafter. The advantageous situation of Wilsontown as an iron work will best appear from a sketch of the minerals connected with, and be- longing to it. The Wilsontown coal-field lies in the form of an elliptical bason or trough, bearing east of north to west of south about three miles. The dip is at right angles to the bearing, and is in general about 07i€ to seven or eight. The main coal, called the ^^ four feet coal," is the lowest ; above it are several thinner seams, — one of which, resting on a stratum of fire-clay, is about two feet in thickness, and has been wrought occasionally, both for the use of the works and for sale. The ac- companying strata are numerous and various, — sandstone or Jree- stone of different texture and hardness, Jakes of various colours, blaes, (bituminous shale and slate-clay,) fire-day, small ribs of ironstone, &c. Above these, and about thirty fathoms above the main coal, there is a stratum of limestone of excellent qua- lity. It is five feet thick, and from it has been taken the whole supply for the use of the furnaces, and all the numerous and va- rious erections since the commencement of the works. About . CARNWATH. 81 fourteen fathoms below the main coal are strata of blaeSi va- rying in thickness from fourteen to twenty feet, while on the top of these lies the great freestone rock, from which have been taken ' all the stones for furnace hearths, and for building both works and village. A few feet under this rock are several strata of ironstone about three or four inches thick, which, when stript of the hlaes^ are to be seen lying in the form of parallelograms and squares, and which, though in close contact with each other, do not adhere ; and, though of different sizes, present the appearance of a regular laid pavement In the lowest part of the blaes are several strata of ironstone, all wrought together in one mine. The uppermost of these, seldom exceeding three inches thick, is called the " ^tted stone^** from its being mixed with small shells of a yellowish colour* Next is the hall stone^ which do not always lie in close or even continued succession, are sometimes large and sometimes small, and have sometimes gone out altogether, but are generally, in this case, succeeded by a close stratum of spotted stone. Two feet below this, there is a thin stratum, called from its colour the black band; and two feet, or little more, below it, lie the great bands. This is the strongest of them all, being six or seven inches thick^ lying also in the form of pavement. In some of the hitches or leaps of this stratum pieces of lead have been found. Ten or twelve fathoms below this, is a stratum of excellent light or candle coal^ which, in the old company's time, was wrought to some ex- tent. It varies in thickness, being on the north-east border of the field, near the boundary of the county, not above sixteen inches, while on the south-east, at Tashy-burn, it is two feet thick. The Climpy field of coal lies on the west side of the Wilson- town, — the crop of the one nearly approaching the other. It is undoubtedly of great extent. Its general bearing is the same as Wilsontown, — stretching to the south-west into the lands of Bir- nie-hall and Abbey, in the parish of Carstairs ; and to the north into the lands of Muldren, in the parish of West Calder. There can be little doubt but the Wilsontown, Cleugh, and Climpy fields of minerals are only successive continuations of the same strata ; and it may be worthy of remark here, that the same strata make their appearance a great way to the east. On the farm of Mosshat- burn-foot, they are to be seen cropping out^ apparently stretching away towards the lands of Wester and Easter Mosshat. At Moss- hat-bum-foot, indeed, the Wilsontown company wrought a consi- derable quantity of the same kind of stone, with the spotted stone at Wilsontown ; and it is not unlikely that the limestone formerly LANARK. ^ 82 LANARKSHIRE. wrought at Easter Mosshat and Urates (or Wolfrod) may be the same with the Climpy and Wilsontown, though perhaps differently modified. There are no dikesj properly so called, in the Wilsontown coal field, but there are several slips or hitches^ as they are here called, of some consequence. The second, from the south-west, may be distinctly seen in the Bum, a few yards above the bridge at Cleugh. It throws the strata a lonff way doum to the north-east ; and a sec* tion of the strata between the main coal and the Wilsontown spot* ted stone is at the above place finely displayed. At a considerable distance farther east, another slip or hitch up shows itself to from eighteen to twenty feet, and here may be seen an instance how slips sometimes derange the strata; for while on the south-westt or low side, the distance betwixt the main coal and the crate coalf next above, is in general about fourteen feet ; on the north-east, or upper side, the space is only about two feet. Still farther east, a fourth slip throws the strata again up^ perhaps even more than the last ; and here another instance of derangement presents itself, and that in the stratum of coal itself. Throughout the field to the south-west of this, there is a thin stratum of black stone in the coal, about eight or ten inches above the pavement, on the top of what is called the ground coaL This ground coal differs in appear- ance from the coal above it, called the wall coaL It is of a clear shining black, of a loose texture, and breaks into small cubes; where- as the wall coal is of a much firmer texture, of a splinty nature, and much of it of a rough fracture. Besides these, there is be- twixt the two slips a very little above the black stone, a stratum of very good candle coal, from four to five inches thick ; but after passing the last mentioned slip, none of these are to be seen, while a stratum of blackish stone, of a foot to eighteen inches, shows it- self, dividing the bed or seam of coal into strata of nearly equal thick- ness, and without increase or diminution of quantity upon the whole. The Jlssures or veins are not what practical men call direct, but sometimes incline to the right, and sometimes to the left. The second and third formerly mentioned incline to each other, and will at last meet, unless, indeed, they are partially deranged, or cut off altogether by the twisting and bending of the strata at the hol- low of the trough, which, indeed, there is reason to suspect, as they have not been seen in the Climpy field. From what has thus been stated respecting the minerals laid up at Wilsontown and in the neighbourhood, it will readily be seen how advantageous the situation is for an iron-work. Every thing CARNWATH. 83 required is here brought together ; and in such quantities too, that I find it reported by a person employed in 1797 to examine the state of the minerals, that, ^^ from what he had explored, 40,000 tons of iron might be made annually for the space of ninety years ! that the supply of ironstone is inexhaustible," &c. * 11. — Civil History. Antiquities, — There are few antiquities in the parish worthy of notice. The cairn or moat at the west end of the village, to which reference has been already made, is evidently artificial, but at what time it was raised, or for what purpose, I have been unable to ascertain. It is of a form somewhat elliptical, the diameter from east to west being longer than from north to south. There is a hollow on the top, where, it is said, there was the entrance to a rude stair that reached to the bottom. This has suggested the idea, that the moat was intended as a burying-place, though tradition speaks of it as a place of concealment for the plate, &c belong- ing to the family of Carnwath, in the troublous times of Bruce and BalioL It has evidently been a place of strength, as it is sur- rounded by a deep ditch, and large mound, f though for what pur- pose it was raised must remain unknown. The present proprietor, Sir N. Macdonald Lockhart, Bart, has, during the last season, encircled it with a ditch and nedge, and planted it with hard wood^ the Scotch fir never having thriven well upon it These trees a colony of crows has now taken possession of, and seems determined to destroy, by the load of nests, — having, it is worthy of remark, returned only lately, after an absence of forty or fifty years. North and west from the cairn, on the other side of the moss, are the ruins of Couthalley Castle, formerly the residence of the * The above was communicated to me, in so far aa the minerahi of Wilsontown are concerned, by Mr James Meaaon, formerly a clerk at the works, and now teadi- inga small school in the village of Forth. The distance of Wilsontown from the sea is no doubt a great drawback on the works, — the iron having to be conveyed to Borrowstounness, a distance of eighteen miles. This the Union Canal will, perhaps, in some measure remedy. -t* The SommerviUe papers mention this mound as a memorial of the first Baron Sommerville's firm adherence to the *' Brucean interest," in opposition to the " Bal- liol faction.** Thus, after stating, that ** during all the days of his life he was a con- stant follower of King Robert Bruce, and ane adherer to his sone King David's in- terest when it was in the most desperate condition," they thus proceed : ** Witnes his casting up a quantitie of earth, of his lands upon the south-west of Carnwath . toune, which makeing a little hill, *tis called yet, omnU terra. This was the cus- tome of these tymes, by which homage they that held the King of Scotland supreme under God wcr distinguished from the BaUiol party, or such as owed any homage to the King of England.** Of such a custom we have no trace, so fiu* as I know, in Scottish history — and the name omnit terra, I never heard applied to the mound in question».and perhaps, af- ter an, it may be regarded only as a look-out sUtion, connected with Couthalley castle, as it commands an extensive view of the country around, and is distinctly seen from the opposite side of the moss, where the remains of the castle stand. 84 LANARKSHIRE. ancient family of Sommerville, one of the most opulent and power- ful families in this part of the country, about the middle of the twelfth century. Hither James the Sixth seems frequently to have repaired, perhaps to enjoy his favourite sport of hunting, and here he seems also to have sometime spent a considerable portion of his time, as some of the charters granted by him are dated at Couthalley.* The castle is now a complete ruin, though its extent may yet be marked ; and, from its situation, surrounded on every side by a deep ditch and earthen mound, with a drawbridge on the west, it must have been a place of very great strength. It is situated on the property of John Wilson of Westsidewood, but Sir N. Mae- donald Lockhart, Bart is the hereditary Keeper of it* But the most perfect piece of antiquity which is presented in the parish is the aisle which we have already mentioned, and which, though built in 1 424, retains much of its original beauty and gran- deur. It is a Gothic structure, covered with freestone flags; and the north window especially appears to have been a beautiful piece of workmanship. It has, successively, been the burying place of the Sommerville family, of the Dalziels, Earls of Carnwath, and now of a branch of the Lockhart family. The church, to which, no doubt, it was attached, and of which it formed a part, was founded in 1386, and endowed by the existing Lord Sommerville in 1424, with some lands, which the relict of one of his successors in vain endeavoured to resume. It was founded for a provost and six prebendaries, and there was at the same time, and by the same person, provision made for the maintenance of eight poor old men ; but when or how this provision ceased is now unknown. IIL — Population. 1. Population in 1755, - ... - 2390 1821. - ... 2888 1831, ... - 3505 Numbers in villages, ... . 1858 2. Average of births for the last seven years, but many of the dissenters are not registered, and consequently are not reckoned here, - - 90^ Average of deaths for the last five years, . . - 45 Do. marriages do. - - - - 27y 3. Number of families, . . _ . . 757 families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 169 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 185 Average number of persons in each, (nearly) - - 4^^ 4. Number of inhabited houses, . . . 707 Do. not inhabited, - . - - 181 * Tlie castle of Couthalley, according to the Sommerville papers, was burned down in 1 320, and there is no record, so far as I have been able to ascertain, when or by whom it was rebuilt. It was burned, no doubt, during some of the inroads of the English, which were so frequent at the time, and led to the building of what is called in the above-mentioned papers " the double tour in Carnwath towne,'* Of this ** double tour** not a vestige remains, though the situation of it is marked out by certain lands being still called Castle Sommerville. CARNWATH. 85 The number of uninhabited houses arises from the breaking up of the Wilsontown iron-works, which, though begun again, are carried on upon a very different scale. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — According to Forrest's map, there are 25193 acres Scotch measure in the parish. Of these not more than one-third are in cultivation. The number of Scotch acres which remain constantly uncultivated, - 12000 That might be cultivated with a profitable application of capital, though a great outlay of money would be required, probably - - 4400 In undivided common, .... . -70 Under wood, ..... . . 400 Husbandry, — Irrigation is carried on to a considerable extent in many parts of the parish, though in very few scientifically, — ^most of the farmers and proprietors seeming to imagine that there is no difficulty in laying out and managing a water meadow. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. The state of farm-buildings is improving : the byre, the stable, and the bam all seem to oc- cupy the chief attention in rearing a steading in this country ; and though on the estate of Camwath there are now a number of ex- cellent dwelling-houses, yet, generally, the accommodation of the farmer's family seems to have been only a secondary consideration. The systems of agriculture pursued in the parish are different in different situations. On one side there is strong and wet clay, and on another a light gravelly soil ; in one part a deep black loam, and in another little else but moss. The same rotation, therefore, and the same mode of management (iannot be pursued. From Dippool, a small rivulet which divides the parish into nearly equal portions, to the north boundary, clay and moss generally prevail ; and though great improvements have been made on both, the close retentive bottom of the one, and the immense depth of the other, baffle the attempts of the husbandman. South from Dippool to the Clyde and Medwin, the soil and climate are very different; and though there are in this part also immense fields of moss, yet the most approved systems of agriculture are generally fol- lowed. Little wheat is, indeed, sown, but there is a great extent of turnips and potatoes, barley and oats, hay and pasture on every farm. The rotation followed in this part of the parish is generally as follows : — \st^ Oats after hay, or two years' pasture. 2rf, Turnips or potatoes, the turnips either shawed and rooted, and carried home to the feeding stock and cows, or ate off by sheep. 3rf, Bar^ ley or oats, sown down with grasses of various kinds, viz. ryegrass, red, white, and yellow clover. The four-course shift, as it has 86 LANARKSHIRE. been called by agriculturists, was followed here for a course of years, and is in some cases still retained, but it has been found by our experienced farmers far too severe, and has been given up. The introduction of bone dust for raising turnip forms a new era in the history of the agriculture of this district, and promises to be of essential consequence to the farmer. It was introduced on- ly about five years ago by one of our oldest and most enterprising farmers, and there is hardly any one of capital op this south side of the parish who does not use it. The turnips raised by it are ge- nerally ate off by sheep, and thus, while the sheep pay well, the field is left in the very best order for barley, with grass seeds. By the use of it, too, the manure made at the steading by the cattle fed there, and the cows kept, which are both numerous, can be applied to other grounds, or the farmer is enabled to extend his quantity of green crop. The bone dust has been confined here chiefly to the raising of turnip ; but Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart when factor on the estate of Camwath, applied it to top-dressing, and with every promise of success. A very dif- ferent mode of culture is followed in the northern part of the pa- rish. Oats are chiefly raised ; and only as many turnips as will keep a few cows giving milk through the winter, while the quan- tity of potatoes is generally restricted to what is necessary for fa- mily use. This is caused by the nature of the soil, which is ge- rally a wet clay, lying on a close bottom of till. Some most suc- cessful attempts have been made, however, of late to introduce a much greater extent of green crop into this part of the parish ; and in a few years as great a change may be expected on the clayey, as has already been made on the mossy grounds. The latter, however, have occupied the chief attention of the farmer in this quarter for a number of years back ; and I may state, that within the last thirty years there has been taken out of moss, and brought into crop, from 800 to 1000 acres. The greater part of this ground was unproductive, being saturated with mois- ture, and incapable of being pastured. Where any thing like grass was produced, it was generally cut in the month of August, and converted into a kind of meadow hay, but of so coarse a kind that it was of little use, except for litter. In places, however, where this used to be the only produce, we have now most luxuriant crops of oats and hay, and even of rich pasture. The mode followed in operating this wonderful change has generally been the following : The field is first laid dry, dug, limed, ^nd dunged, and two crops of oats taken. It is then sown down with rye-grass, Yorkshire CARNWATH. 87 f<^, and white clover, and left to lie some years in grass. At the end of this period it is taken up again, and one or two crops, as before, are received from it, when it is again laid down, dung be- ing applied with the crop, among which the grass-seeds are sown, and, if well enough broken, the field is left to be as permanent pas- ture. The great expense of digging has prevented many addi- tional acres within the bounds of the parish from being cultivated in the same way ; but an improvement has been introduced of. late years which promises to obviate in some measure this difficulty. Wedge-draining has been followed in some places to a considera- ble extent, and with complete success. By the use of it fields of moss, which, in common language, would not carry a sparrow, have been so completely dried, that the plough has been introdu- ced, and done its work as successfully as on any other part of the farm. In almost every corner of the parish improvements of the above descriptions have been in progress, within the last twenty years especially, and most successfully on the properties which lie on the banks of Dippool, Medwin, and Cleughbum. Dairy System. — The dairy system is carried on almost on every farm to a great extent, and with great success. Some of the far- mers keep twenty cows, and the prizes awarded by the Highland Society to the district for the best managed dairy, and the best made cheese, have, in almost every instance, found their way to this pa- rish. The cheese is of the kind called Dunlop, and most of it is carried to Edinburgh, where it is sold at from L. 2 to L. 3 per cwt. Rent of Land. — The rent of land per acre is very different, ac- cording to circumstances and situation. Thus, immediately around the village of Camwath, L. 4, and even L. 5 are paid for an acre, and four guineas is the common grass mail for a milk cow, while not much more than a mile from the same village, a hundred acres will not bring much more than any of these sums. In the upper part of the parish the same disparity prevails, but it may be men- tioned, that, after the most minute investigation, the present in- cumbent, in 1822, gave in the rental to the Court of Teinds at L. 14,000 a-year. Since that period he has no reason to think that it is lessened, though the liberality of Sir C. Macdonald Lock- hart's deductions to his tenants have been such as to reduce it some- what, so far as he was concerned. Bate of Wages. — The wages of a good ploughman are from L. 6 to L. 8 a half year ; of a female servant, from L. 3 to L. 4 for the same time; of a labourer, from Is. 6d. to 2s. a day, in summer; of a shearer (man) L. 2, of a woman 35s.- 88 LANARKSHIRE. Breeds of Live Stock. — It can hardly be said that there is a flock of sheep in the parish, though we have them of all kinds, as black- faced, Leicester, and Cheviot. The first are bred on the moor- land and high part of the parish; the second fattened on some of our best farms ; and the third only are bought in, to eat ofi* the turnip in winter. The breed of cattle is chiefly what is called the Ayrshire. The cows are almost universally Ayrshire, as these are accounted best for the dairj' ; and while the quey c«alves are reared in numbers, and with the utmost care, the bulls are fattened and sent as veal to the Edinburgh markets V. — Parochial Economy. Village. — The village of Carnwath is much changed for the better within the last twenty years. Formerly its streets were encumbered with dung-hills and peat-stacks, which are now all swept away ; and even the old houses now present an appearance of comfort and clean- liness. Many of the new houses are handsome ; and should Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart, succeed in his plans of feu- ing, which he has already done to a considerable extent, the next twenty years will do more for its improvement than even the last. Means of Communication. — The roads throughout the parish are in a far better state than formerly ; and there is one change which deserves to be particularly marked, as by it the neighbouring parishes are in a manner brought nearer to each other, and a new thoroughfare is opened to the country at large. The Clyde, which is the boundary of the parish on the south and south-west, often over-^ flows its banks, and even long before it does so becomes impassable by the fords. For at least nine months in the year the parishes of Pet- tinain and Carnwath were thus separated by 8 or 9 miles. To this I have been exposed even in the month of July, while the distance betwixt the one place and the other was not above 2^ miles. This led the proprietors on both sides to think of some means of commu- nication more direct and convenient ; and about five years ago a boat or float was erected, and has ever since continued to ply on the river, to the immense comfort and accommodation of the in- habitants on both sides, as well as of the country in general. The float is large, running upon a chain, and two or even three loaded carts can pass on it at a time. Thus a new outlet for the lime and coal of the parish is opened up, and were the roads on each side more improved, they would obtain ar sale much more extend- ed than ever they have yet done. The Clyde is, indeed, still im- passable during soipe of the winter floods, the holms on each side (3 CARNWATH. 89 being so extensive ; but this continues only for a few hours, and were th^ south pier raised a few feet, which the proprietors talk of doing, the river will be impassable for even a shorter period. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is most inconveniently situated for the great body of the parishioners, being placed at the south and west end of the parish. There are, indeed, only two fa- milies immediately to the west, and not above ten or twelve on the south of the church. Many families are thus placed six and seven miles from the enjoyment of public ordinances, and in a high coun- try such as this is, it is not to be expected that in winter the in- habitants of the upper districts are to attend regularly. Of them in general, however, I am happy to speak in terms of high commen- dation, and many a day their pews may be seen filled, while many who are within hearing of the Sabbath bell obey not the summons which it sends forth. The church was built in 1798, and is neither elegant nor commodious. * Being set down close beside the aisle of the old one, which, though built in 1424, still remains a hand- some Gothic structure ; the contrast only serves to indicate the different spirit in which these things were gone about in the fif- teenth and in the eighteenth century. It is seated for 1100 people, and is, of course, too small for our population, and were it not for the accommodation afforded by dis- senters, many of the parishioners would have no opportunity of re- ceiving religious instruction. At our communion, indeed, a large body of the communicants are obliged to be without doors alto- gether. The seats erected for the communion table were, till within these few years, appropriated to the use of the poor, but one of them is now occupied by an heritor and his family, of course, with the consent of the other heritors. The manse was built in 1817, and is, upon the whole, substan- tial and convenient The glebe consists of ten acres, lying imme- diately round the manse, and since the improvements made upon it, by ditching, draining, and levelling, is not unproductive. It is worth L. 2 per acre, though the land in the crofts aroimd the vil- lage brings a much higher price, people paying for convenience, rather than going to market for every thing they need. The amount of stipend is 16 chalders, 8 of meal, and 8 of barley, and L. 10 for communion elements. * The church was last year very much improved, both internally and externally. The ceiling, which was very much broken, was completely renewed ; the whole in- terior white-washed, and a stove erected. I have little doubt, but in a few years, this last improvement will repay it«wners, — There are seven heritors, all of them proprie- tors of land upwards of the yearly value of L. 50. The two prin- cipal are Lord Douglas, and Lockhart of Cleghom. The only resident heritor at present is Thomas Gibson, Esq. of Eastfield. Macqueen, late Lord Justice- Clerk, bought the estate of Har- dington, or Bagbie, as it was then called, which he very much im- proved, and where he occasionally resided. Hardington House is at present occupied by his grandson, Robert Macqueen, Esq. Younger of Braxfield. WISTON AND ROBERTON. 95 Parochial Registers. — The books belonging to the kirk-session of the old parish of Roberton have unfortunately been lost, and no trace of them can be discovered. The earliest of those belong- ing to the old parish of Wiston bears the date of 1694, and with occasional, but trifling interruptions, they are extant from that pe- riod to the present III. — Population. The return to Dr Webster in 1755, the earliest account of the population of the parish that we have been able to discover, gave from Wistdta 591, and from Roberton, 511, in all 1102. From a census taken by the writer in the month of February last, it ap- pears that the present population of the united parish is 949, or 153 less than it was about eighty years ago. In 1791, the popu- lation was only 740, or 362 less than it was about forty years be- fore. This large decrease was easily accounted for, from the cir- cumstance, thatbeween the years 1755 and 1791, the system had come into vogue of throwing several small farms into one large farm, and, as a matter of course, driving the small tenants, with their families, out of the parish ; and the very gradual increase which has since taken place is as easily accounted for on merely na- tural principles. There are three villages in the parish, Roberton, Wiston, and Newton of Wiston. And from the census taken in February last, it appears that there were then residing in the vil- lage of Roberton, 235 ; in the village of Wiston, 123 ; in the vil- lage of Newton, 56 ; and in what may be called the country parts of the parish, 535. There is qo register of deaths kept in this parish. The births average from 15 to 20, and the marriages about 7 a year. 1. Number of &inilies in Uie parish, - - - - 180 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 80 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 48 S. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 1 7 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45^ - 49 8. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 358 betwixt 15 and SO, - . 262 80 and 50, - 161 50 and 70, - - 151 upwards of 70, . - - 24 Perhaps it may be worth mentioning, that a week or two ago, an aged couple, who, for upwards of half a century had trode the path of life together, died within a few days of each other ; the husband at the advanced age of 82, and the wife ten years older. Custams^^c. of the People. — Notvery many years ago, cock-fight- ing and foot-ball were favourite amusements in this district, and were frequently made the subject of a trial of strength between two 96 LANARKSHIRE. rival parishes. They are now sunk into merited oblivion, and their place is well supplied by the not less interesting, and far less eX't- ceptionable amusement of curling. In their domestic character and habits the people generally are manifestly improving; and though there is still ample room for amendment, it is evident that the indolent, slovenly, " canna' be fashed" system of the last cen-; tury is fast falling into disrepute, and yielding to a taste for neat- ness, and a habit of cleanliness, both as to their houses and their persons, the effects of which are already apparent The farmers are active, intelligent, and hospitable. Equally remcfved, on the one hand, from the conditions and character of the mere serf, and, on the other, from that of the gentleman farmer, they are, some of them, wealthy, and all of them able to make a respectable ap- pearance, enjoy in abundance the necessaries of life, and are be- coming daily more alive to its comforts and its elegancies, llie lower orders are in general comfortable in their circumstances, and contented with their lot ; honest, industrious, and sober ; inferior to no peasantry in Scotland in point of intelligence, and unstained by the prevalence of any particular vice, — poaching, perhaps, ex- cepted, which, in the eyes of some, seems to possess an attraction absolutely irresistible. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — There are about 2183 acres in this parish in constant rotation ; about 1600 occasionally in til- lage ; about 5388 which never have been cultivated, and which re- main constantly waste, or in sheep pasture ; and at least 1500 which, with a profitable application of capital, might be added to the cultivated land of the parish, whether that land were afterwards to be kept in occasional tillage, or in permanent pasture. There is no land in this parish in a state of undivided common. There are only about 200 acres under wood, none of it indigenous ; of these nearly one-half have been planted within these few years on the property of Lockhart of Cleghorn. The wooded grounds are judiciously laid out, and are carefully attended to. The wood thrives remarkably well, and promises, ere long, to give a new face to this part of the parish, and holds out every encouragement to the other proprietors to beautify and improve their properties in a simi- lar manner. It consists, in general, of larch and Scotch fir, with a sprinkling of hardwood, in the proportion, perhaps, of twenty, of the former to one of the latter. Rent of Land, — The land in this parish is of such various value, some of it being worth, perhaps, L.4 per acre, and some of it WISTON AND KODERTON. 97 scarcely 4d., that it is difficult to say what is its average rent. Of the land constantly in rotation, perhaps L.2, 10s. may be taken as a pretty fair average; and of that which is only occasionally in til- lage, perhaps 15s. The average rate of grazing is L.d for an ox or cow, and 5s. for a ewe or full-grown sheep pastured for the year. Rate of Wages. — The rate of labour, winter and summer, for {utn-labourers is Is. 4d., and for country artisans, 2s. 6d. per day, victuals included ; for a man-servant, L. 12, and a woman-servant, L5, 15s. per annum. Livestock, §*c. — There are about 185 scores of sheep in the parish, chiefly of the black-faced Linton breed ; about 366 milk cows, principally of the Ayrshire breed, though a new species has lately been introduced, and found upon trial to be of superior qua- lity, viz. the Lanarkshire newly improved breed, crossed by Ayr- shire cow and short-homed bull, or vice versa ; and about 76 horses employed in agriculture, of the Clydesdale breed. There is an evident growing attention to the improvement of the breeds of sheep and cattle, to which, perhaps, the various cattle shows in the neighbourhood have not a little contributed ; and, indeed, the cha- nicter of the husbandry in general has of late very much improved, and is still improving, particularly as to the reclaiming of waste land, draining and liming. As a proof of which, I may state that one of our farmers, Mr Muir, Hardington Mains, obtained this year the silver medal given by the Highland Society for the re- claiming of waste land ; and I believe that another, Mr Wilson, Hillend, would have been equally successful had he chosen to ap- ply. It is right to add, that the merit of whatever has been done in this respect is almost entirely due to the tenants themselves, vho receive in general but too little assistance from their respec- tive proprietors. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish cannot be exactly ascertained; but it is believed that the lollowing is nearly correct : Produce of grain of all kinds, ... Potatoes and turnips, - - - - Haj, meadow and cultivated, - - , ^'jaong, at rate of L. 3 per cow, and 5s. per ewe or sheep, Lime-works, rated at 18,000 bolls per annum, Is. 6d. per boll, Miscellaneous produce, including dairy, &c. Total yearly value of raw produce raised, V. — Parochial Economy. Villages, — Biggar, about seven miles distant, is our nearest post LANARK. G L. a370 145(j 2548 2.J0 1350 2f>'23 L. 11,897 98 LANARKSHIRE. and market-town. As already stated, there are three villages in the parish, Roberton, Wiston, and Newton of Wiston. Means of Communication. — The turnpike road from Stirling to Carlisle runs through the whole length of the parish, and has in various respects been of vast advantage to it There are no bridges of any consequence ; the fences are deficient, but such as we have are tolerably good. Ecclesiastical State. — The present church is that of the old pa- rish of Wiston. It was enlarged after the annexation of the two parishes, has since been repaired, and is at present in a very to- lerable state. It is situate within a mile and a-half of the eastern, and fully four miles and a-half from the western, extremity of the parish. But though not exactly centrical, as even the private roads in the parish are now generally good, those at a distance have no great reason to complain ; nor do they seem to feel it any incon- venience, for few attend church with greater regularity. It is seated for 355, not the legal provision ; but by means of forms and fold- ing seats, accommodation has lately been provided for about thirty more, and these newly provided sittings are free. — The manse was built in the year 1750, and during the present incumbency, up- wards of twenty years ago, a considerable addition was made to it. — There are two glebes, the glebe of the old parish of Roberton, and that of the old parish of Wiston. The former is sixteen acres in extent, and is let at present for L.25; the latter is about seven acres and a-half, including the garden and site of the manse and offices, and would let, I suppose, for about L.20. The glebes are more than two miles distant from each other, and though it is strongly recommended in the decreet of annexation ^^ to exchange the glebe and yard of Roberton for lands lying contiguous to the glebe of Wiston," the recommendation has not yet been attended to. The teinds are exhausted, and by a decreet of modification and locality, 1816, the stipend was fixed at L. 191, lis. dd. money, and one chaldron meal. There is a Relief chapel in the village of Roberton. It was built about thirty-three years ago, and is seated for 377. The minis- ter's salary, I believe, depends entirely on the produce of the cha- pel ; what that may exactly amount to I caimot tell, for, of course, I have no official communication on the subject, but I rather think it Will not exceed L. 40 per annum. It has been in a declining state for several years ; nor is its decline to be ascribed to any cir- cumstances of an accidental or extraordinary nature. There are 1 50 families attending the Established church, and 42 families attend- WISTON AND BOBERTON. 99 ing different dissenting chapels, particularly the Relief one .already mentioned. Tliere are 766 persons of all ages belonging to the Establishment, and 183 of all ages belonging to dissenterism. There are 405 in communion with the church of Scotland, and 102 in communion with dissenting bodies. Education. — There are three schools in the parish, two paro- chial and one private and unendowed. The branches generally taught are, English, writing, arithmetic, and occasionally Latin. The salary of the schoolmaster of Wiston is L.25, Ids. dd., that of the schoolmaster of Roberton, L. 30. The fees in the school of Wiston are, English, 2s., English and writing, 28. 6d., English, writing, and arithmetic, 3s., English, writing, arithmetic, and Latin, 48. per quarter. In the school of Roberton the fees are, English, 1 s. 6d. English and writing, 2s. 6d. English, writing, and arithmetic, 3s. 6d. per quarter. At the annual examination in March, there were attending the parochial school of Wiston, 64; the parochial school of Roberton, 56 ; and the private school in Roberton 32. Both parochial teachers have the full legal accommodation. In no- thing, perhaps, has there been such a decided improvement of late years, as in the system of parochial teaching; and in no parish with which I am acquainted are the people more alive to the bene- fits of education, nor do they evince a keener interest in the subject. This is apparent from the fact, that in the poorest hamlets in the most distant parts in the parish, you will not find a child six years of age who has not been at school, as well as from the great turn out of parents on the day of annual examination, and the eager- ness with which they listen to the proceedings. Libraries^ — There are two public libraries in the parish, one a subscription library, consisting of books of every description, the other a Sabbath school library, consisting exclusively of religious works, but not limited in its circulation to the children attending the school. Both are well supported. Friendly Society, — A friendly society was instituted a consider- able time ago, though in what year it is impossible to say, as the original books have been lost. The earliest record in the pos- session of the society bears the date of 1782. We regret to add, Aat it is not quite so flourishing as it once was ; and we can ascril)e its decUne ( temporary we hope) to no circumstance, so much as to the almost general extinction of that spirit of honest independ- ence by which the inhabitants of Scotland were at one time so remarkably and honourably distinguished; nor can we think of any thing more likely to revive the prosperity of the society, than 100 LANARKSHIRE, for the heritors and other influential individuals connected with the parish to give it their countenance and support, by enrolling them- selves as members, and taking an interest in its proceedings. For their own sakes, as well as for the sake of the community at large, they ought to do so, as it is now, in this parish at least, the only remaining bar against the inroads of pauperism. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is from 15 to 20, exclusive of occasional paupers ; the sum allotted to each individual is of course regulated by circumstances. The least that is given (and truly it is as little as can be given) is 4s. per month, and the most 15s. In 1832, the total amount of money received in behalf of the poor was L. 119, lis. 1^. The church collections amounted to L- 12, 13s. 4^d. and, with the exception of the interest of L. 100, and a few other inconsiderable items, the remainder of the sum arose from the regular assessment, at the rate of lOd. Sterling, on each pound Scotch, one half paid by the proprietor, the other by the occupier. Inns. — There are no fewer than four inns or public houses in the parish, while one would be quite sufficient. Their effect, as might be expected, is decidedly bad. Fueh — The fuel is coal from the neighbouring parishes of Douglas and Carmichael. The price is 8d. a-load at the pit, and lOd. a-load for driving. The distance is about six miles. Miscellaneous Observations. In the Statistical Account of 1792, it is stated, " there is, strict- ly speaking, no poors' roll. It is sometimes necessary to press aid on the necessitous, such is their modesty." From the foregoing account, it will be seen that matters are in this respect lament- ably altered. Various causes have no doubt contributed to this effect. The dissenting chapel at Roberton, by thinning for some time the attendance at the Established church, necessarily diminish- ed the amount of church collections, whilst the enlarged scale on which the lime-works came to be wrought, by introducing into the parish a poor and thoughtless population, added to the number of the necessitous, without providing any supply for their relief. These two circumstances combined gave rise to the necessity of a legal assessment, and that in its turn, and as its necessary consequence, has extinguished the spirit of independence, increased the number of the poor, and dried up almost every source of voluntary contri- bution for their support. May 1834. CITY OF GLASGOW, ASD SUBURBAN PARISHES OF BARONY AND GORBALS.* PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, AND SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. DUNCAN MACFARLAN, D.D.,i!fmw/«- of the Inner High or Cathedral Church. THE REV. JOHN FORBES, Outer High Church. THE REV. JOHN LOCKHART, D.D, College Church. THE REV. ROBERT BUCHANAN, Tron Church. THE REV. JOHN G. LORLMER, St Davids Church. THE REV. JOHN SMYTH, D. D., St Georges Church. THE REV. NATHANIEL PATERSON, St Andrew's Church. THE REV. JAMES HENDERSON, .S'^ Enoch's Church. THE REV. THOMAS BROWN, D.D., St John's Church. THE REV. JOHN MUIR, D. D., St James' Church. THE REV. JOHN BURNS, D. D., ) „ ^ , THE REV. W. BLACK, D. D., A. & S., / ^^''^^ Church. THE REV. ALEXANDER TURNER, Gorbals Church. In a work of this nature a minute history of the city and suburbs is not to be expected. All that seems necessary is a concise view of their former and present st^te, referring those who wish to have a fuller account of their rise and progress to the histories publish- ed by M^Ure, Gibson, Denholm, and Cleland. L — Topography and Natural History. Latitude and Longitude. — According to the determination of Dr Wilson, formerly Professor of Astronomy in the University of Glasgow, the latitude of the Macfarlane Observatory in the Col- lege Garden of Glasgow is 55° 51' 32" north, and longitude 4° 17' bAT west Glasgow is therefore nearly eight miles farther south than Edinburgh, and I'' 1' farther west. Name and Boundaries. — There is no authentic record of the origin of Glasgow. Its name in the Gaelic language is interpret- ed by some as signifying a Grey Smith, whilst others think it means a Dark Glen, in allusion to the ravine near the cathedral, where a primary settlement appears to have been made. While the Romans maintained possession of North Britain, it is related • This article has been drawn up by the Very Reverend Dukcam Macpaklan, D.D. Principal of the Glasgow College, one of his Majesty's Chaplains for Scotland; and by James Cleland, LL.D. Fellow of the SutUtical Society of London, Member of the Society ef CivU-Engineers, London, Corresponding Member of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Member of the PhUosophical Society of Glasgow. LANARK. " 102 LANARKSHIRE. that they had a station on the spot, on which Glasgow is now built, and being within the wall of Antoninus, which crossed the island from the Forth to the Clyde, a few miles to the north of Glasgow, it was included in the province of Valentia, and was retained by that warlike people till their final expulsion from Britain. The congregating of houses in this part of the country, begun by the Romans, was afterwards hastened by St Mungo, who had establish- ed a cell, and ultimately a religious fraternity at Glasgow. For many ages afterwards, this city continued to be little else than a religious establishment. At the Reformation in 1560, Glasgow also compre- hended what is now known by the name of the Barony Parish, but in the year 1595, it was found that the locality was too great for one pa- rish ; the Presbytery therefore disjoined it from the original parish, and it now forms a suburb of the city. The extreme length of the original and still existing boundary, from the Kelvin at Gars- cube House, to the Bishop's Loch, is 8 miles and about 7 fur- longs, and the greatest breadth from the river Clyde at Dalbeth, to the boundary at Coshnochmoor, 4 miles and about 2 furlongs. Glasgow, i, e. the ten parishes of the royalty, lies on the south side, and is included in the above boundary. It extends from the Clyde at Hutcheson's Bridge to the estate of Possil, northwards, 2 miles and about 5-8ths of a mile ; and from Camlachie burn, to M* Al- pine's Street, at the steam-boat quay, westwards, 2 miles and about 1^ furlongs. The Gorbals or suburbs lying on the south side of the Clyde was originally a part of the parish of Govan. The lands of Gor- bals were for a long period under the superiority of the Archbi- shop of Glasgow; but in 1571 they were granted to George El- phinstone, a merchant of Glasgow, from whom they descended to his son Sir George Elphinstone of Blythswood, who obtained from the Archbishop the privileges of a burgh of barony. In 1647, the corporations of the city. Trades House, and Hutcheson's Hos- pital purchased these lands, which have since been the source of great wealth to these respective bodies. In 1732, a Chapel of Ease to the parish of Govan was erected in Gorbals, and in 1771, Gorbals was erected into a separate parish. The word Gorbals is of very difficult etymology ; the most obvious interpretation (though not very applicable) is by the British word Gorbal, signi- fying very Jar or distant Topographical Appearances, — The south part of the city is built on a tract of flat land adjoining the Clyde, averaging about half a mile in breadth. On the north parts, the surface rises into uplandi GLASGOW. 103 where the ancient town was situated. In the landward parts of the suburban parishes the soil is highly cultivated, and produces plen- tiful crops. Climate.^ — Climate commonly denotes the nature of the weather usually prevalent in any particular district or country. Northern climates are more favourable to health and longevity than tropi- cal regions. The alternate change of seasons produces a variety, which cheers the mind and acts upon the animal frame. Healthi- ness in the mass of the people constitute an essential part of na- tional prosperity, because without it labour cannot be performed. Salubrious air and fertile soil contribute to produce an industrious peasantry. As Glasgow has taken the lead in the formation of tables for exhi- biting the probability of human life in large towns, we have felt it right to give a particular account of the climate. In the second edition of Cleland's folio Statistical work, pp. 102 to 109, the year- ly quantity of rain is given for thirty years, as ascertained in the Macfarlane Observatory, by Dr James Couper, Professor of Astro- nomy in this University, showing an yearly average of 22.328 inches. The least quantity in any one year during that period was 14.468 in 1803, and the greatest 2a554 in 1828. The quan- tity of rain which falls at Glasgow is less than at Edinburgh : this may be accounted for by the circumstance, that the former place is nearly twenty miles inland from the west coast, and is therefore beyond the immediate influence of the Atlantic, which renders some parts of the north-west of England so rainy, while its distance from the east coast, and the high land between it and Edinburgh, screen it from those violent rains, when the east wind blows, which are so common in Edinburgh. The distance of the hills from Glasgow is greater than from Edinburgh, and it is in some degree screened by high ground, both on the east and west The state of the thermometer and atmospheric appearances is also given in the work alluded to, every morning throughout the year • « The two seas by which Scotland is bounded, in consequence of their difference of temperature, ha^e a remarkable effect on its climate. The German Ocean, which stretches along the east coast, being of small extent and of no considerable depth, is easily affected by the changes of the seasons on the adjacent continent, in so much that it is three degrees colder in winter and five degrees warmer in summer than the Atlantic, which, without any material interruption, occupies the western coast of the kingdom." "In summer, therefore, in consequence of the high comparative temperature of the German Ocean, a copious evaporation takes place throughout its whole extent, which produces those easterly haan, as they are called, or thick mists, which are seen at a cer- tain period of the day to arise from the sea ; and which are not only dangerous to na- ▼igadon, but advancing upon the land render the eastern coast often highly disagree- able.**— ^Ir John SlnehirU StatUtical jlnaJtjii* of Scotland, p. 95. 104 LANARKSHIRE. at nine o'clock ; but here we have been enabled, from knowing the state of the thermometer every hour, day, and night during the year 1834, to give the average monthly for the year. This has been obtained through the politeness of Mr Mackain, the scienti- fic manager of the Glasgow Cranstonhill Water- Works Company. Mr Mackain suspended one of Crichton's Fahrenheit thermometers in an open well about twenty feet diameter, cradled with stone, in a position apart from the rays of the sun, and gave in charge to the day and night engineer, who are in constant attendance, to mark the hourly state of the thermometer in a book; and from that book Mr Mackain constructed a table, exhibiting the temperature hourly, daily, weekly, monthly, and yearly. The following is an abstract from that laborious and most important document. 1834, Jan. 24, greatest heat, 44.37 Jan. 29. least heat, ^3.12 average, 40.56 Feb. 18, 46.i>8 Feb. 13, 32.25 40.08 March 12, 49.95 March 20, 35.45 4232 April 24, 52.16 April 11, 8a25 45.37 May 27, 59.95 May 1, 45.41 54.70 June 2, 6345 June 13, 52 33 57.91 July 4. 67.33 July 19. 56.87 6204 August 3, 67.83 August28, 49.75 59.87 Sept. 18, 61.45 Sept. 13, 48.79 5ai7 Oct. 4, 56.33 Oct 24, 36.95 48.19 Nov. 5, 5229 Nov. 24, 80.70 41.59 Dec. 6, 52.16 Dec. 19, 26.37 39.63 The greatest height of the thermometer in June was 72°, and the lowest 46°. In July 78^ and 54°. In August 78° and 49°. These extremes are applicable only to a few hours in the respec- tive months. Average temperature at the Cranstonhill Water- Works during two years, viz. from 1st January 1833 to 1st January 1835, 48.43. The mean heat of Glasgow was formerly determined by Professor Thomas Thomson to be 47°. 75^, while that of Edinburgh, as deter- mined by Professor Play fair, was 47° 7'; but it is presumed that these eminent philosophers had not the advantage' of hourly inspection. In 1834 and 1835 the winters were so mild that ice was im- ported from Iceland to Glasgow. This may account for the dif- ference of temperature, as ascertained by Professor Thomson. Hydrography. — The city is bounded on the south by the Clyde, and that river bounds the Gorbals on the north. The Barony pa- rish is bounded on the west parts by the river Kelvin. The Forth and Clyde, and the Monkland Canals, run through a considerable part of it, and it contains the Hogganfield and Frankfield lochs, which act as feeders to the town mills. Mineralogy. — The suburbs contain large quantities of coal, iron- stone, limestone, freestone, whinstone, fire and potters clay, and GLASGOW. 105 Other Taluable minerals. Kilpatrick and Campsie hills abound with a great variety of curious and valuable minerals, but as these belong to neighbouring parishes, they are not noticed here. II. — Civil and Ecclesiastical History. The following facts, collected from the records of the town- council, the Presbytery, and kirk-session of Glasgow, the Bishops' Cartulary, and other authentic documents, by Dr Cleland, convey a pretty accurate account of the state of society in Glasgow at the periods referred to. See ofGlcLsgow. — Although Glasgow was an early seat of the Church, historians do not agree as to the time when the See was founded. That it is next to St Andrews in point of antiquity is beyond all doubt. With regard to its founder, Kennet, in his Parochial Antiquities^ says, it was instituted by Kentigern or St Mungo, in the year 560.* Dr Keelyn, speaking of the see of St Asaph in Wales, observes, " that the see was founded by St Ken- ti^rn, a Scot, in 583," and that " St Kentigern was then Bishop of Glasgow." From these authorities, it may be inferred that St Mungo founded the See of Glasgow, and became the first bishop, and that when a cathedral of sufficient grandeur was finished, it would be dedicated to St Mungo. Baldrade, St Mungo's disciple, who founded a religious house at Inchinnan, is said to have suc- ceeded him in the bishoprick. There is no record of the See for more than 500 years after this period. This great blank cannot be accounted for with any degree of certainty^ Among other con- jectures, it is said that the church was destroyed by the ravages of the Danes, who murdered or drove off the religious who had settled in Glasgow. In the year 1115, David,^ Prince of Cumberland refounded the See, and having, in 1 124, succeeded his brother Alexander I. to the throne of Scotland, he promoted his chaplain, John Achaius, to the bishoprick in 1129. In 1133, the cathedral was solemnly consecrated in presence of the King, who endowed it with the lands of Partick. In 1 165, Pope Alexander III. issued a bull command- ing the faithful to visit the cathedral of Glasgow. In 1 176, Bishop Joceline enlarged the cathedral, and rebuilt a part of it in a style * ** Tbe city and castle of Glasgow have long been the seat of the bishops and ardibishops of Glasgow. St Mungo, to whom the cathedral was dedicated, is esteem, cd tbe first bishop of Glasgow. He was of great birth, great piety, and great learn- ing. Much that is written of him depends upon the credit of the authors. He lived in tbe sixth century. There is a bull of erection and confirmation of the bishoprick aooD after the Pope's authority was owned in this kingdom.** — DetcnptUm of the She- ffdom ofLamark^ fty WUUam HamUtan of WUhaw^ compiled about the beginning of the but century, and rectntlg jprinted by the Maithnd Club, pp. 4, 6. 106 LANARKSHIRE. more magnificent than it had ever been. In the same year, Wil- liam the Lion, King of Scots, granted a charter to the town for holding a market on Thursday. In four years thereafter, Glasgow was erected into a royal burgh, and, " in 1190, the town received a royal charter for holding a fair every year, for ever, from the 8th of the Apostle Peter, (29th June,) and for the space of eight days complete." The fair commences on the second Monday of July, and continues the whole week. In 1210 the Grayfriars Monas- tery was at the foot of the Deanside Brae. Little more is known of it, than that the citizens of Glasgow, at that date, went in a body on the last day of the fair to pay their respects to the Abbot of Melrose, who Uved in the monastery, and had been instrumental in procuring the fair. In 1270, the religious fraternity of Blackfriars was patronized by Sir Matthew Stewart of Castlemilk, who granted an an- nuity from his estate, " on condition of their saying mass for ever for the souls of him, the said Matthew, and for his mither and bairns of our place, progenitors, and successors, and all Christian souls perpetually." This ancient family has always been respect- able. In 1398, Sir Walter Stewart of Castlemilk, brother to Sir John Stewart of Darnley, was named one of the sureties on the part of Scotland, in a treaty of peace between England and Scot- land. In 1300, Edward L of England took upon him to appoint An- thony Beik to the see of Glasgow. Earl Percy, at the same time, usurped the military government of the western part of Scotland, and took possession of the Episcopal palace in Glasgow.* Sir * The ancient castle of Carstairs was originally a Roman station or fortification, and was given by King David, or St David, as he was called, in 1 126, to the Bishop of Glasgow for his country palace. The following curious information is from the Rotuli Scotia?, in the Tower, published by the Record Commission. " When Edward I. was at Berwick in 1292, deciding on the claims of Bruce and Baliol, he was in possession of all the fortresses in Scotland. At that period the King granted a license to Robert Wiseheart, Bishop of Glasgow, to finish the Castle of Carstairs, which had been begun without leave. The following is a copy of the license : — * The King and Sovereign Lord of the kingdom of Scotland, to all his bailifiTs and faithful men to whom these shall come, greeting; Whereas a venerable ikther, Robert, Bishop of Glasgow, at his manor of Carstairs, in the county of Lanark, a certain castle o£ stone and mortar, after the death of Alexander of blessed memory, late King of Scotland, without any license, began to build. Wc, to the same bishop a special grace, being willing to have granted in this part to him, for ourselves, and for our heirs, that he the said castle so begun, may finish and fortify with kernals, and the same so finished and turreted, or kemallated, may hold to him and to his successors for ever. Nor wish we that the said bishop or his successors, by occasion of the said castle being begun without our licence or will, as aforesaid, is by us or our heirs, or our bailiffs or servants whatsomever, be quarclled, or in any way aggrieved. Witness the King at Berwick-on- Tweed the 15th of July." It is remarkable that in 1292 the castle and manor of Carstairs was possessed bj one of our most public-spirited and benevolent bishops, and that, after a lapse of more 4 GLASGOW. 107 William Wallace, who was then at Ayr, determined on ridding his country of the English usurpers, and, accompanied by Wallace of RicfaardtowD, the Laird of Auchinleck, his friend James Cleland, and others, gave battle to the usurper in the High Street, nearly where the college now stands, when Sir William cleft the head of Earl Percy with one stroke of his sword, on which the route of the English became general. On 28th August in the following year. King Edward offered oblations at the shrine of St Mungo, in the cathedral church of Glasgow, for the good news of Sir Malcolm de Drummond, a Scottish knight, being taken prisoner by Sir John Seagreave. It appears from the Bishop's Cartulary that the plague raged furiously here in the years 1330, 1350, 1380, 1381, 1600, 1602, 1604, and in 1649. In 1387, the great wooden spire of the Cathedral of Glasgow, which was covered with lead, was destroyed by lightning. In 1392, a mint^house was erected in the Drygate, where coins were struck with the motto, ^^ Robertus Dei Gratia Rex Scotorum, vil- la de Glasgow, Dominus Protector." In 1420, there was a convent for Grayfriars somewhere about the west end of the Grayfriars' Wynd. The friars were patroniz- ed by the celebrated but unfortunate Isobel Duchess of Albany, cousin to James, afterwards L of Scotland, who, on 18th May 1431, at Inchmurran, mortified the lands of Ballagan to the con- vent of the Grayfriars at Glasgow, for the express purpose of <^ the salvation of our souls, and that of Murdoch, Duke of Albany, of worthy memory, our dear husband ; and also of Duncan Earl of LennoaL, our father, and of Walter, James, and Alexander, our sons.'' It is worthy of remark, that this pious lady received from the King, her cousin, as a present, the heads of her husband, her father, and her sons, Walter and Alexander; James having fled into Ireland. In 1426, Bishop Cameron, soon after his induction, established the Commissariat Court, andincreased the number of the prebenda« ries of the cathedral to thirty-two. In 1441, St Enoch's Church was built within St Enoch's gate, and dedicated to the blessed Vir- gin and St Michael. It had a principal, eight prebendaries, and a large burying-ground. There is no vestige of the burying- ground, and there seems to be no record when the church was than 500 Years, the magnificent mansion and extensive manor of Carstairs is poaseas- •d by a cttixen of Glasgow, Mr Henry Montetth, alike distinguished for public spi- rit and aetxre benerolence, whether engaged in mercantile enterprise, in Uie senatey or in honourable retirement. 108 LANARKSHIRE. taken down. In 1450, Bishop Turnbull obtained a charter from James II., erecting the town and patrimonies of the bishoprick into a regality. In 1456, St Nicholas' Hospital was founded and endowed by Bishop Muirhead, for the maintenance of twelve poor laymen and a priest. The Hospital was situated on the west side of Kirk Street, near where the Bishop's palace stood. Its ruins were taken down in 1808; the ground on which it stood now forms part of the Gas Work premises. Its revenues, now reduced to about L. 30 per annum, arise from ground annuals in the neighbourhood of the hospital, Lindsay's Middle, or New Wynd, &c. The Town- Council lately conferred the patronage on Provost Dalgleish. In 1484, the Collegiate Church of St Mary (Tron) was built, and dedicated to the blessed Virgin. In 1488, the see of Glasgow was made archiepiscopal, during Bishop Blackadder's incumbency. The Bishop, along with the Earl of Bothwell, negotiated a mar- riage between King James IV. of Scotland and the Lady Marga- ret, eldest daughter of Henry VII. of England, which they brought about to the mutual satisfaction of both kingdoms. This union laid the foundation of the title of the Scotch Kings to the English throne ; which, in right of proximity of blood. King James VI. of Scotland succeeded to, on the demise of Queen Elizabeth. In 1496, the Chapel of St Roque, belonging to the Blackfriars with- out the Stable Green Port, had an extensive burying-ground, * where great numbers of those who died of the plague in after years were buried. In 1527, Jeremiah Russell and John Kennedy were burned alive in Glasgow for adhering to the principles of the Reformation. Gavin Dunbar, Archbishop of Glasgow, and the Bishops of Dunkeld, Brechin, and Dunblane, &c. were present at the trial, and agreed to the sentence, which was read in the me- tropolitan church on the last day of February. The revenues which had been granted from time to time in sup- port of the splendour of the see of Glasgow were very great. The archbishops were lords of the lordships of the royalty and baro- nies of Glasgow ; besides, there were eighteen baronies of land ^hich belonged to them within the sheriflFdoms of Lanark, Dum- barton, Ayr, Renfrew, Peebles, Selkirk, Roxburgh, Dumfries, and the stewartry of Annandale, including 240 parishes. There was also a large estate in Cumberland within their jurisdiction, which was named of old the Spiritual Dukedom. When the see was made archiepiscopal, jurisdiction was given over the Bishops of Gallo- way, Argyle, and the Isles. At the Reformation in 1560, Arch- GLASGOW. 109 bbbop Beaton retired to France, taking with him all the relics, documents, and plate which pertained to the see and the arch- bishoprick. Since the renovation of the see, there have been twen- ty-six Roman Catholic bishops ; the first, John Achaius, elected in 1129, and the last, George Carmichael, in 14m3, and four Roman Catholic archbishops, the first, Robert Blackadder, in 1488, and the last, James Beaton, in 1551. From the Reforma- tion till the Revolution, the church in Glasgow was governed by fourteen Protestant archbishops, the first, James Boyd, elected in 1572, and the last, John Paterson, in 1687. State of Society, 8fc, — Prior to the Reformation, the inhabitants of this city and neighbourhood were governed by churchmen, who kept them in a state of ignorance and superstition truly deplorable. At that period, the principles of the glorious Reformation began to be acknowledged, when it pleased God to raise up powerful agents in Edinburgh and Glasgow in the persons of Knox and Melville. In 1560, when the Reformation took place, and for a considerable time after, the great body of the people retained their fierce and sanguinary disposition. This is strikingly marked by their being constantly armed : even the ministers in the pulpit were accoutred. The number of murders, cases of incest, and other criminal acts, turned over to the censure of the church, but too plainly point out the depraved character of the people. In 1546, Glasgow, although only the eleventh town in Scot- land, in point of trade and importance, had some shipping ; the privy-council of Scotland having issued an order, that vessels be^ longing to Glasgow should not annoy those belonging to Henry VIIL of England, the Queen's uncle. In 1556, during the minority of Mary Queen of Scots, James Hamilton, Earl of Arran, an ancestor of the noble house of Ha- milton, the second person in the kingdom, and nearest heir to the throne after Mary, was appointed Regent This appointment hav- ing been opposed by the Earl of Lennox, and the Queen Dowager, an engagement took place at the Butts, where the weaponschaws used to be held, (now the site of the Infantry Barracks.) The ci- tizens taking part with Lennox, the Regent was defeated, which so exasperated him, that, rallying his troops, he entered the town, and gave it up to pillage ; which was so effectually done, that the very doors and windows of the houses were destroyed. In 1566, Henry Damley, husband of Mary Queen of Scots, came to thb city on a visit to his father, who resided in a house on the east side of Limmerfield, a little south from the new Baro- 110 LANARKSHIRE. ny Church, a part of the south wall of which is still preserved. As the King was taken ill, the Queen came from Stirling to see him in this house, where she resided till he was so far recovered as to be removed to Edinburgh, in the neighbourhood of which he was soon after murdered. On 30th September 1578, Robert Stew- art Earl of Lennox, the immediate successor of Matthew, the fa- ther of Henry Damley, was entered a burgess, and in the same year elected Provost of Glasgow. In 1581, the King appointed Mr Robert Montgomery, minis- ter of Stirling, to be Archbishop of Glasgow, with the understand- ing that he was to confer the title of hereditary lords of the Bi- shop's Castle on the Lennox family, with all the emoluments per- taining thereto, for the paltry consideration of L. 1000 Scots, some horse com, and poultry. The people, considering the archbishop erroneous in doctrine and loose in morals, opposed his entry, by getting Mr Howie to preach at the time he was to be inducted. Sir Matthew Stewart of Minto, Provost of Glasgow, being desir- ous of obeying the King's commands, went to the church and de- sired Mr Howie to break off his sermon, which refusing, the pro- vost pulled him out of the pulpit In the struggle some hair was drawn out of Mr Howie's beard, several of his teeth knocked out, and his blood shed. On this Mr Howie denounced the judgment of God on Sir Matthew, and his family. M^Ure, in his History of Glasgow, says, that in less than seventy years, this opulent family was so reduced that they subsisted by charity. The church con- sidering the transaction with the Lennox family illegal and dis- graceful, the archbishop was forced to resign the benefice. He afterwards became minister of Symington, and latterly of Stewar- ton in Ayrshire, where he died. At this period the church disci- pline was severe. On 16th August 1587, the kirk-session ap> pointed harlots to be carted through the town, ducked in Clyde, and put in the jugs at the cross, on a market day. The punish- ment for adultery was to appear six Sabbaths on the cockstool at the pillar, bare-footed and bare-legged, in sackcloth, then to be carted through the town, and ducked in Clyde from a pulley fixed on the bridge." The release from excommunication was as fol- lows : ^^ A man excommunicated for relapse in adultery^ was to pass from his dwelling-house to the Hie Kirk, six Sundays, at six in the morning at the first bell, conveyed by two of the elders or deacons, or any other two honest men, and to stand at the kirk door bare- footed, and bare-legged, in sackcloth, with a white wand in his hand, bare-headed till after the reading of the text ; in the same GLASGOW. Ill manDer to repair to the pillar till the sermon was ended, and then to go out to the door again, and stand there till the congregation pass from the kirk, and after that he is released." The presbytery admonished their ministers to be diligent in their studies, grave in their apparel, and not vain with long ruffles, and gaudy toys in their clothes. The brethren (Presbytery) inter- pret ^* the Sabbath to be from sun to sun ; no work to be done be- tween light and light, in winter, and between sun and sun in sum- mer." Subsequently, the brethren declared " the Sabbath to be from twelve on Saturday night till twelve on Sabbath night." The session directed that the drum should go through the town, to intimate that there must be no bickerings or plays on Sundays, either by old or young. Games, golfs, bowls, &c. were forbidden on Sundays ; and further, that no person go to Ruglen to see plays on Sundays. Parents who had bairns to be baptized were to repeat the Com- mandments distinctly, articles of faith, and the Lord's Prayer, or be declared ignorant, and some godly person to present their bairn ; with farther punishment, as the kirk shall think fit. That no pro- clamation of banns be made without the consent of parents ; per- sons who cannot say the commandments were declared to be un- worthy of marriage. Because of the many inconveniences by mar- riages on Sundays before noon, ** the session enact that none be made till the afternoon." In 1588, the kirk-session appointed some ash-trees in the Hie Kirk yard to be cut down, to make forms for the folk to sit on in the kirk; women were not to sit upon the forms, but to bring stools with them. Intimation wa6 made, that " no woman, married or un» married, should come within the kirk door to preachmgs or prayers with their plaids about their heads, neither to lie down in the kirk on their face in time of prayer ; with certification, that their plaids be drawn down, or they be raised by the beadle. The beadles were to have staffs for keeping quietness in the kirk, and comely order; for each marriage they were to get 4d., and 2d. for each baptism. All this for ringmg the bell and rowing up the knocks and for setting the forms in the Hie Kirk, and in the Blackfriars Kirk, and also the New Kirk. The kirk beadles were to allow none to enter the steeple to trouble the knock and bell there, but to keep the AnocA going at all times, and the five hours bell in the mom^ ing, and eight hours bell at even, and that for a long space. The minister gave the dead bellman a merk to buy a book, to enter the names of the dead with their age." *« On 26th December 1588, the magistrates, considering the 112 LANARKSHIRE. manifold blasphemies and evil words spoken by sundry women, direct the master of works to erect jugs, three or four steps up, that they may not be torn down. The town-council enacted that no market be kept on Sundays, and that persons blaspheming and swearing shall be punished according to law. Walter Prior of Blantyre, tacksman of the teinds of the parsonage of Glasgow, provided the elements for the communion, he was spoken to, to pro- vide a hogshead of good wine. The time of convening on the Sun- days of the communion was four o'clock in the morning. The collectors assembled on these occasions in the Hie Kirk, at three o'clock in the morning. At that period the town-council enacted that wine shall not be sold dearer than 18 pennies Scots, for a Scotch pint, and ale not to exceed 4 pennies Scotch, =z one-third of a penny Sterling for two imperial quarts." ' " On 7th October 1589, there were six lepers in the Lepers* House at the Gorbals end of the bridge, viz. Andrew Lawson, merchant ; Steven Gilmour, cordiner ; Robert Bogle, son of Pa- trick Bogle ; Patrick Brittal, tailor ; John Thomson, tailor ; and Daniel Cunningham, tinker." For a considerable time previous to 1604, very serious differen- ces had arisen between the merchants and trades' ranks, regarding precedency ; to put an end to which, and to restore peace in the burgh, a submission was entered into on 10th November 1604, which led to the letter of guildry. On 16th February 1605, at a meeting in the Council- House, Sir George Elphinston of Blyths- wood, provost, informed the meeting that the provost, bailies, and council being ripely advised, understanding the same first to redound to the honour of God, common weal of this burgh, have accepted, received, and admitted the said letter of guildry, and in token thereof have subscribed the same. On 3d March 1608, the kirk-session gave intimation, that the Laird of Minto, a late provost, was accusedx)f a breach of chastity. The session considering his age and the station he held in the town pass him with vl reprimand. At this period the funds of the corporation must have been very low. At a meeting of the town-council, on 9th April 1609, the pro- vost informed the council, that the magistrates had been charged the sum of 100 punds, by the clerk register, for the book called the " Regium Majestatem," that they were in danger of horning for the same, and that, as the town was not stented, and as the council could not advance the money, (L. 8, 6s. 8d. Sterling,) he had bor- rowed it from William Biirn, merchant bui^ss. GLASGOW. 113 It would appear that the letter of guildry had only removed the biirghal discontent, as on 19th May 1609, the provost inform- ed the council, that the Earl of Glencairn, and the Lord Sempil, with their friends, were to be in this town on Monday next, conform to the ordinance of the secret council, for the purpose of compro- mbing their deadly feuds ; " therefore for eschewing of all incon- veniences of trouble which may happen, (which God forbid,) the council directed that the number of forty persons, with one of the bailies, and the whole council, should attend upon the provost, and that one of the other two bailies, and threescore men, should attend at the lodgings of the said noblemen, all the foresaid per- sons to have long weapons, and swords, and to be in readiness to accompany and convoy the said noblemen, with their friends, in and out, in making their reconciliation, conform to the ordinance of the secret council, and the drum to pass through the town, to advertise and warn all the inhabitants, to be in readiness with their arms foresaid, and to meet the provost and the bailies on Monday next, at seven hours on the green, that the foresaid num- ber of persons may be chosen, and that under the penalty of L. 5." On 19th August following, the council granted a warrant to John Bemit, master of works, for 41 punds, 10s. as the expenses of wine and confections spent at the cross, upon the 5th day of July, the King's day, my Lord Bishop of Glasgow being present, with sun- dry other honourable men. On 6th October 1610, the town-council enacted, that there should be no middings (dunghills) on the fore streets, nor in the flesh-market, meal-market, or other market of this burgh, under the penalty of Ids. 4d. and that no timber lie on the High Street, above year and day, nor any turf, turf stakes, or lint, be dried upon the High Street, under the penalty of Ids. 4d, and that the fruit, kail, and onion crammies, stand betwixt the gutter and the house, and that each stand and flake be an ell in length and breadth. The council at the same time ordained, that the lepers of the hospital should go only upon the causewayside, near the gutter, and should have *^ clapperis," and a cloth upon their mouth and face, and should stand afar off while they receive alms, under the penalty of being banished from the town and hospital. On 22d December 1613, mortahty bills were directed to be made in the city for the first time. In 1635, the magistrates purchased from the Earl of Glencairn, the manse of the prebendary of Cambuslang in the Drygate, which they fitted up as a house of correction for dissolute women, and 114 LANARKSHIRE. such was the vigilance of the kirk-session, that they directed the women to be whipped every "day during pleasure. The Laigh Kirk steeple was built in 1638. The Tron or pub- lic weights were kept in the under part of this steeple for a num- ber of years; hence the name Tron. The dues of the tron, which formerly belonged to the Archbishop, were conveyed to the Col- lege, which still draws a small sum from the town in lieu of them. The council agreed to license Duncan Birnet to teach music within the burgh, provided he takes no more " skoUeges fra the bairns than James Sanderis was allowed. " They authorized the master of work now in Flanders, to purchase for the town's use fifty muskets with " stalfis and bandeleiris," and fifty pikes. On 8th September they ordered " three score young men to be elected and trained to handle arms, the driller to have for his pains 40 shillings each day for his coming out of Edinburgh, aye until he be discharged, with his horse hire hame and afield." On 25th September 1 638, the principal and regents of the Col- lege petitioned the town-council for help to build the new work within the said College. The council " condescended and agreed to give to the building of the said work 1000 merks when the work is going on, and another 1000 merks to buy books to the library, whenever they buy their books to make a library to the said Col- lege. The money to be advanced by the provost and bailies, who may be in office at the time." " On 8th October 1638, the provost, bailies, and council, un- derstanding that his sacred Majesty has been graciously pleased to indict a general free assembly to be holden in this city the 21st November next, to which it is expected that a great number of noblemen, commissioners from presbyteries, and other commis- sioners will repair hither, therefore it is statuted and ordained, that no burgess or inhabitant within this burgh shall set, or pro- mise to set, for rent or otherwise, or give to any friend any house, chamber, or stable, until they first acquaint them therewith, that the provost, bailies, and council may give a license thereto, to the end that every one may be lodged according to their quality and ability in this city, under the pain of 100 punds, and imprison- ment of their persons during the magistrates' will. And likewise, that those give obedience to this who are appointed to survey the houses within the city, and also that no inhabitant expect more rent for their houses, chambers, beds, and stables than shall be appointed by the said provost, bailies, and council, and ordains the GLASGOW. 115 same to be intimated through the town by sound of drum, that no person may plead ignorance.*' On 3d November, the town-council, understanding that a great number of people will convene within this burgh at the ensuing assembly, they statuted and ordained, that there be a guard of men kept through the day, and a watch at night, under the direc- tion of the provost and bailies. On the 18th, the treasurer was directed to purchase for the town's use 100 muskets with ** stalfis and bandeleiris," 30 pikes, 4 cwt. of powder, and 4 cwt of match. On 21st November this famous assembly met in the nave of the Cathedral. During the preceding year. Laud, Archbishop of Can- terbury, had ordered a service-book to be read in the Scotch churches, which the people thought savoured of the mass. This innovation afforded a fit opportunity for the friends of the Presby- terian form to exert themselves in the cause ; they therefore with great assiduity procured a numerous attendance at this assembly. The celebrated Marquis of Hamilton was Lord High Commis- sioner. The venerable Mr John Bell, minister of the Tron Church of Glasgow, preached, after which Mr Alexander Henderson was elected Moderator. The assembly was attended by a great propor- tion of the nobility and other persons of rank and consideration in Scotland. The Presbyterian partycarriedeverythingtheirownway. The Commissioner protested and dissolved the assembly. After his Grace had departed, the assembly held twenty-six diets, when they decreed, 1^, The abjuration of Episcopacy ; 2(Z, The abo- lishing of the service-books and the high commission ; 3^, The proceedings of the six preceding assemblies during Episcopacy were declared null and void ; 4/A, They deposed and excommuni- cated the Archbishops of St Andrews and Glasgow, and the Bi- shops of Galloway, Brechin, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Ross, Argyle, and Dunblane, and a number of other clergymen ; 5thy The Co- venant being approved of, was ordered to be signed by all ranks, under pain of excommunication ; and, 6^A, Churchmen were in- capacitated from holding, any place in Parliament On 19th March 1640, intimation was made by the session, that all masters of families should give an account of those in their fa- milies who have not the Ten Commandments, the Lord's Prayer, Creed, &c. and that every family should have prayers and psalms morning and evening; some of the fittest men to assist the elders in promoting this work. On 8th January in the following year, the kirk-session, in pursuance of an act of Assembly held at Aberdeen, enacted that the magistrates should cause all monuments of ido- UG LANARKSHIRE. latry to be taken down and destroyed, viz. all superstitious pictures, crucifixes, &c. both in private houses and in the Hie Kirk. Next day it was reported that they found only three that could be cal- led so, viz. the five wounds of Christ, the Holy Lamb, and a Pro- nobis. On the 19th June 1641, the council directed the treasurer to pay Mr Gavin Forsyth 162 punds for his bygone services in bap- tizing infants within this city, and visiting the sick in the time of the town's necessity, and for preaching God's word on Tuesdays. On 1st December, the council enacted that some Holland cloth, and Scotch linen cloth, with some plaids, as also two gallons of aqua vitce^ and four half-barrels of herring^ be sent as a present to Mr Webb, servant to the Duke of Lennox, as a testimony of the town's thankfulness to him for the pains he took in the town's bu- siness. The said day the JJIarquis of Argyle exhibited in presence of the town-council, a commission from the secret-council anent the transporting of 5000 men to Ireland, desiring the council to provide boats and barques for their transport. After much rea- soning, it was thought fit that the freight of each soldier should be 1 pund, 10s., and that the soldiers and boatmen should have 6s. in the day for victuals during the time they are at sea ; the whole to be paid by the community. On 13th April 1649, parochial sessions were first appointed ; but as these clerical courts assumed the power of censuring the measures of Government, his Majesty, Charles II. put them down by royal proclamation, and it was not till April 1662 that the legal restriction was removed. On 6th Julv 1649, the kirk session inti- mated that any person who knows any point of witchcraft or sorcery against any one in this burgh, shall delate the same to some of the ministers or magistrates. Oliver Cromwell having on 3d September 1650, got possession of Edinburgh, marched to Glasgow, and took up his lodgings and held his levees in Silver Craigs House, on the east side of the Saltmarket, nearly opposite the Bridgegate. " Cromwell having learned that Mr Patrick Gillespie, minister of the Outer High Church, had the chief sway in ecclesiastical afiairs, sent for him, and after a long conference, gave him a prayer. On the following Sunday he went in state to the Cathedral Church. Mr Zachary Boyd, the distinguished paraph rast, having been ap- pointed to preach, took occasion to inveigh against Cromwell, on which Thurlow, his secretary, said he would pistol the scoundrel. ' No, no,' said the General, ' we will manage him in his own way.' GLASGOW. 117 Having asked the minister to dine with him, Oliver concluded the entertainment with prayer, which it is said lasted three hours. On 16th June 1660, the session having taken into their con- sideration the Lord's merciful providence in returning the King's majesty to his throne and government, do judge it their duty to set apart some time for public thanksgiving to God for the same. The Restoration took place on 29th May, and such was the persecuting spirit of the times, that on 14th July following, the privy-council sent an order to the magistrates of Glasgow, to desire Principal Gillespie to appear before them, which he did on the 17th Au- gust, when, for the favour he had shown to Cromwell, he was sent to Edinburgh jail, and was afterwards imprisoned in the Bass Island, along with a number of ministers. After a period of confinement, the Principal was brought before Parliament and liberated. Soon after the Restoration, an attempt was made to force Epis- copacy on. the people of Scotland, and nowhere was this attempt more opposed than in Glasgow, where the great body of the people were Covenanters. The King having appointed Mr James Sharp, minister of Crail, to be Archbishop of St Andrews ; and Mr An- drew Fairfowl, minister of Dunse, to be Archbishop of Glasgow ; and two other ministers to be bishops, they were ordained in Lon- don, and on 10th April 1662, arrived in Edinburgh. The clergy and laity of Glasgow, with a few exceptions, having refused to con- form to Episcopacy, the Earl of Middleton, and a committee of the privy-council, came to Glasgow on 26th September 1662. The council met in the fore-hall of the college, when, after the usual preliminaries. Lord Middleton informed the committee, that the archbishop desired the royal order for uniformity to be enforced. This was agreed to by all but Lord Lee, who assured the com- mittee that the enforcement of that order would desolate the coun- try. In the face of this it was enforced, when upwards of 400 ministers were turned out, and took leave of their flocks in one day, among whom were five belonging to Glasgow, viz. Prin- dpal Gillespie, Messrs Robert Macward, John Carstairs, Ralph RogerB, and Donald Cargill. Early in 1678, the committee of council returned to Glasgow, where they remained ten days. They sat on Sunday during divine service, administering a bond for pre- venting all intercourse with the exiled ministers ; and such was the terror which accompanied their proceedings, that Provost Camp- bell, Bailies Johnston, Campbell, Colquhoun, and others, to the number of 153 persons, signed the obnoxious bond. The council, LANARK. I 118 LANARKSHIRE. the better to enforce their arbitrary measures, summoned to their aid some of the chieftains and clans, afterwards designated the Highland Host. These rapacious mountaineers, unaccustomed to discrimination, plundered the inhabitants of every thing they could lay their hands on. Under such an order of things, emigration to Holland or Geneva was the only safe alternative. On 2d Febru- ary following, the host left Glasgow for Ayrshire, and on their re- turn in small detachments, loaded with plunder, they were attack- ed by the students and other young men of the town, who recol- lecting their former practices, relieved them of their burthens, and showed them the way to the Highlands through the West Port. On 17th August 1669, the Presbytery of Glasgow directed that the day of preparation before the communion should be a day of fasting and humiliation. During the troubles in the latter end of the reign of Charles I. and the greater part of the reign of Charles n. the communion was but seldom administered in Glasgow, and not at all in the year 1646-47-51-52-59-58 and 59. From 1660 to 1676, the communion was occasionally given once in the year ; and from 1693 till the Union in 1707, it was regularly given once a- year ; and it has almost uniformly been given twice a-year since that period. In 1677, a great fire took place in Glasgow, when 130 houses and shops were destroyed. In 1684, a number of Covenanters were hanged in Glasgow, and their heads stuck on pikes on the east side of the jail. Their bodies were buried at the north side of the Cathedral Church, near where a stone with an inscription is placed, and still remains in the wall. In 1689, on the abdication of James II., the city of Glasgow raised a regiment of 500 rank and file, and sent them to Edin- burgh, under the command of the Earl of Argyle, to guard the Covenanters. This regiment then got the name of the Scotch Cameronians, and subsequently the 26th Regiment of Foot. Dur- ing this year the magistrates were elected by a poll vote of the burgesses; but in the succeeding year, an act of William and Mary empowered the magistrates and council to elect themselves. On 4th June 1690, the Presbytery of Glasgow, considering that " this is the first diet after the re-establishment of the Presbyterian form of church government," directed Mr Joseph Drew to go to Stirling, and preach to the people of Glasgow, who had been driven there on account of the troubled state of the kingdom. On 2d May 1695, an act was read from the pulpits in the city, against buying or selling things on the Sabbath, also against feeding horses GLASGOW. 119 in the fields, or hiring horses to ride on the Sabbath, except ih cases of necessity, of which the magistrates are to be made ac- quainted. Tlie ancient and laudable custom of elders visiting the fiunilies once a quarter was revived. On 12th March 1698, the magistrates of Glasgow granted an allowance to the jailor for keeping warlocks and witches imprison- ed in the tolbooth, by order of the Lords Commissioners of Jus- ticiary. The elders and deacons, two and two, were enjoined to search the change-houses in their proportions on the Saturday nights at ten o'clock, and to delate the drinkers and houses to the magistrates. In 1707, the union with England was effected. This measure was so inimical to the citizens of Glasgow, that the magistrates found it necessary to prohibit more than three persons from as- s»nbling together on the streets after sunset. In 1715, when the Rebellion broke out under the Earl of Marr, the city of Glasgow raised a regiment of 600 men at their own ex- pense, who marched to Stirling under the conunand of Colonel Aird, the late provost, and joined the King's forces. In 1717, the Convention of Royal Burghs passed an act pro- hibiting persons from trading in Glasgow, unless they resided eight months of the year within it. On 11th November 1725, the kirk-session enacted, that the elders and deacons should go through their proportions, and take notice of all young women who keep chambers alone, especially those aospected of lightness, and warn them that they will be taken notice o£^ and advise them to get htmest mm, or take themselves to service. In 1786, the foundation stone of the Town-hall, and the first Assembly Rooms, was laid by Provost Coulter. The hall and As- sembly Rooms were opened in 1740. Although Deacon Corse was the master mason, his foreman, the celebrated Mungo Nai- smith, carried on the work, and carved the caricature heads on the key stones of the arches of the arcade, so justly admired. Till the Assembly Rooms were opened in 1740, the Glasgow assemblies were held in the Merchant's Hall, Bridgegate. These assemblies were usually well attended. The Duchess of Douglas, for several years, patronized them. The Rebellion of 1745 afforded the citizens of Glasgow an op- portunity of showing their loyalty to the Government, by raising two regiments of 600 men each, at their own expense. On the news of the American war reaching Glasgow, the magistrates cal- *^120 LANARKSHIRE. led a public meeting, when resolutions were entered * into, to sup- port the Government. A corps of 1000 rank and file, afterwards the 8dd Regiment of Foot, was raised at an expense of about L. 10,000.* To give countenance to recruiting, and to show their determination to oppose the Americans, above 500 of the princi- pal inhabitants formed, as it were, a recruiting party. Mr John Wardrop, a Virginia merchant, beat a drum ; Mr James Finlay, father to Mr Kirkman Finlay of Castle Toward, played the bagpipe; while other eminent merchants and citizens performed the duty of fifers, or carried broad swords, colours, or other warlike ensigns. Mr Cunningham of Lainshaw, Mr Speirs of Elderslie, and others, hired their ships as transports ; but Mr Glassford of Dugaldston, disapproving of the warlike preparations, laid up his ships in Port- Glasgow harbour. In 1787, the cotton manufacturers proposed to reduce the price of weaving, on which a number of w^eavers stopt work, and, after parading the streets on 3d September, burned and destroyed a number of webs in the Drygate and Calton. Provost Riddell cal- led out the military, under the command of Colonel Kellet, when the riot act was read ; the mob refusing to disperse, three men were killed near the Hangman's Brae, (north end of Barrack Street,) and several wounded. The revolutionary principles of France had made such rapid progress in this country during 1793-4, that an Act of Parliament was passed, authorizing his Majesty to accept the military services of such of his loyal subjects, as chose to enrol themselves as volun« teers, for defence of our inestimable constitution. The necessary arrangements had no sooner been made, than a number of the ci- tizens of Glasgow oflFered their services to Government, which were immediately accepted. During the war there were thirteen vo- lunteer corps raised, and when these were disbanded, there were five regiments of local militia formed. In 1799 and 1800, the failure of the crops was so great, that provisions could not be got through the usual channels. The cor- poration, and a number of benevolent individuals, entered into a subscription, and purchased grain for the supply of the working- classes. The purchases amounted to L. 117,500. Op the re- turn of plenty the concern was wound up, which showed a loss of • The Trades- House, the fourteen incorporated trades, and individual nieinber% subscribed L. 5025 towards the expenses of the regiment. The corporation of tlw city voted an address to his Majesty, containing the tender of a regiment ; and the Ix>ndon Gazette, January 19, 1778, states, that the Hon. Robert Donald, Lord Rt>- roit, and Duncan Niven, Esq. Convener of the Trades- House, who presented the ad* dress, were most graciously received, and bad the honour to kiss his Majesty's hand. GLASGOW. 121 L. 15,000. As a large proportion of this came from the corpora- don funds, a bill was brought into Parh'ament, for taxing the in- habitants for a part of the loss ; but it was so vehemently opposed, that the magistrates withdrew it. In the latter end of 1816, and beginning of 1817, the stagna- tion of trade was such, that the working-classes in the city and tuburbs could not 6nd employment. The distress of the workers was so great, that it was found necessary to raise money for their relief by voluntary subscriptions. From a large sum raised, the committee distributed L. 9653, 6s. 2d. among 23,130 {)erson.s. In 1818, the lower classes of this city and suburbs were severely aS9icted with typhus fever. No sooner had the disease made pro- gress than L. 6626, 14s. Id. was raised for the relief of the afflict- ed sufiTerers by voluntary contribution. The accommodation in the Royal Infirmary being quite inadequate for the number of fe- ver patients, the subscribers built a temporary fever hospital at Spring Gardens, fitted to contain upwards of 200 beds. The hos- pital was opened on 30th March 1818, and cloiied on 12th July 1819. Between these periods 1929 patients were admitted. The greatest number at one time was 212, and the deaths amounted to 171. During the period of the disease, upwards of 5000 apart- ments in the city and suburbs were fumigated, 600 lodging-houses were examined, infected bedding was burned, and the owners sup- plied with new bedding. In 1819, the working-classes were again tlirown into great distress from want of employment. The seeds of discontent which had been widely sown took deep root in tliis part of the country, and ended in what has been emphatically called Radicalism, At this alarming crisis, when thousands of workers paraded the streets, de- manding employment or bread, upwards of 600 persons were al- most instantly employed at spade work, or breaking stones for the roads. Exclusive of the exertions of the authorities, and individuals in the suburbs, the magistrates of Glasgow simultaneously employed upwards of 340 weavers at spade work in the green, nearly the whole of whom remained for upwards of four months under the direction of Dr Cleland ; audit is only justice to those individuals to say, that under his kind usage and vigilant superintendence, not one of them left their work to attend pplitical meetings in the Green, although thoussmds marched past them with radical ensigns, accompanied by well-dressed females carrying caps of liberty. The distress and dissatisfaction continued during the greater part of 1820, when large distributions of clothing, meal, and coals were given lo 122 LANARKSHIRE. such persons as could not find employment The distress was such that 2040 heads of families were under the necessity of pawning 7380 articles, on which they received L. 739, 6s. 6d* Of the heads of families 1943 were Scotch, and 97 English, Irish, or foreigners ; 1372 had never applied for nor received charity of any description ; 474 received occasional aid from the committee, and 194 were paupers. On the 30th August of that year, James Wilson was hanged and beheaded for high treason* In August 1822, when George IV. visited Edinburgh, the cor- poration of this city and the Merchants and Trades Houses sent de- putations with splendid equipages, and presented loyal addresses to his Majesty. Another period of mercantile distress occurred in 1826, and from 8th April of that year till 31st October 1827, about L. 9000 were laid out for the amelioration of the working-classes, and from 12th March till 20th October 1829, there was expended on work for operatives the sum of L. 2950. Bills of Mortality. — Bills of mortality are understood to contain a list of births, marriages and deaths, from parochial registers, at stated periods, in connection with the population. Glasgow Bills of Mortality. — As the Glasgow bills of mortali- ty, from which the probability of human life in large towns, and other important results may be deduced, have met with more than ordinary approbation from political inquirers, we think it right to give a detailed account of the manner in which those bills have been prepared. The parochial register of births in Glasgow be- ing so defective that no reliance could be placed on it, Dr Cle- land, who had hitherto taken the whole charge of the bills, obtained the necessary information in the following manner : On the 6th of December 1829, he addressed a letter to each of the seventy-five clergymen and lay-pastors in the city and suburbs, who baptize children, requesting to be favoured with returns of the numbers they might baptize from the 14th of December 1829, to the 15th of December 1830, both days inclusive, being the year previous to the last Government census. The letter was accompanied by a book in which the sexes and the particular parishes in which the parents resided were to be inserted. He also requested the vari- ous societies of Baptists, the society of Friends, and Jews, and others who do not dispense the ordinance of baptism to infants, to favour him with the above particulars, relative to children born to mem- bers of their societies ; and in due time he had the satisfaction of re- GLASGOW. 123 ceiTing returns from the whole, as also au account of the children of parent?, who, while disapproving of infant baptism, did not be- loog to any religious society. It appeared that in the city and su- burbs, there were 6397 children baptized or born to Baptists, &c. and of that number there were only 3225 inserted in the parochial registers, leaving unregistered 3172. Although in Scotland there is no marriage act as in England, restricting the solemnization of marriages to clergymen of the Es- tablished Church, the ordinance can only be regularly celebrated by persons duly called to the pastoral office, and not until a certi- ficate of the proclamation of banns has been produced. Persons irregularly married are deprived of the privileges of the church, till they appear before the kirk-session, acknowledge their fault, and be reponed. From this circumstance, in connection with the solicitude of the female and her friends, to have the marriage re- gistered, the marriage register of Glasgow and its suburbs may be held as correct for all statistical purposes. The deaths are ascertained by the number of burials. The burying-grounds in the city and suburbs are placed under the management of fourteen wardens. These officers, who attend every funeral, enter in a memorandum book at the grave, the name, age, and designation of* the person buried, along with the amount of fee received, and the name of the undertaker. Having taken these, and other particulars, the wardens afterwards enter the whole in a book classified conformably to a printed schedule, drawn up by Dr Cleland. At the end of the year they furnish him with an abstract from their books, and it is from a combination of these abstracts that he ascertains the number of deaths at the various ages. The abstract includes still-born children, and the deaths of Jews, and members of the Society of Friends, who have separate burying places. Dr Cleland having been appointed to take the sole charge of conducting the enumeration and classification of the inhabitants of the city of Glasgow and suburbs, for the Government census of 1831, he employed twelve parochial beadles, nineteen mercantile derks, and one superintendent of police, to take the lists. Before the books were prepared, an advertisement was inserted in the Glasgow newspapers, requesting the inhabitants to favour him with their suggestions as to classification, and before the list-takers commenced their operations, bills were posted upon the public 124 LANARKSHIRE. places and dwelling-houses of the city, informing the inhabitants of the nature of the inquiries, and that they had no reference to taxes, and moreover, that non-compliance, or giving a false retum, subjected them to a fine. When the books were returned to him, the public, through the medium of the press, were requested to call at an office appointed for the purpose, and to correct any omission or error which might have been made in their retumfl. The list-takers having made oath before the Lord Provost, that the name of every householder in the district assigned to them^ his, or her age, profession, religion, country, &c had been faith- fully entered in a book, and a similar description of his or her fa- mily taken down, he proceeded to classification, and formed tables ivnd abstracts for each parish, containing numerous details not re- quired for the Government digest, Glasgow Bill of Mortality for 1830. — A general list of births, baptisms, marriages, and burials, within the ten parishes of the royalty, and the suburban parishes of Barony and Gorbals. Birtfit and Baptisms, Returns from clergymen and lay pastors, Add stilUborn from do. - Males* Females, Total. 3281 3116 68d7 246 225 471 Total, 8527 3341 6868 Of this number there were registered only, - 1678 1547 8225 Number unregistered, exclusive of still-born, - 1603 1569 3172* The children were baptised as follows, viz. By clergymen of the Church of Scotland, - - - 3128 By do. of the Secession church, - - - - 664 By do. of the Relief church, - ... 571 By do. of the Roman Catholic church, - - - . 915 By do. of the Scotch Episcopal church, Independents, Methodists, and other denominations, including births among Baptists, Society of Friends, Jews, &c ...... 1024 Total, 6397 Marriages engrossed in the registers of the City, Barony, and Gorbals: — In the city, 857; Barony, 691; Gorbals, 371; to- tal, 1919. Burials engrossed in the registers of the City, Barony, and Gorbals burying grounds : — * While the great importance of accurate parochial registers is admitted by all, it is astonishing how little they have been attended to in this country. In Edinburgbt the metropolis of Scotland, a city distinguished for its erudition, and for its nume- rous and valuable institutions, the baptismal register is miserably defective. It ap- pears from a printed report of a Conunittee of the Town- Council of that city, of date, 20th February 1835, that In 1834, the baptismal register for the thirteen parishes contained only the names of Jour hundred and eighty children. GLASGOW. 125 Of whom have died. MtOes. ^e*9usiff#. TfOal Male*. Females, Total ifffj 273 26B 541 SciU.born, 1 " 246 225 471 rt»7> 22e 223 449 under i one ywu-, ider 2, 463 414 877 nc5h. . 218 tao7 425 1 and > ur 316 307 623 * - 2oe 1B4 392 2 . 5, 263 237 500 175 360 5 • 10, 134 119 253 178 378 10 . 20, 144 132 276 3e«te. 240 So*w. 236 182 376 20 . 30, 189 145 334 1206 438 30 • 40, 169 144 313 229 469 40 - 50. 184 164 348 184 4^) 50 - 60, 177 175 352 j^^r»«nker, 234 189 423 60 - 70, 168 171 339 ^^^eeoiVNT, 255 259 514 70 75 - 75, 80. 85, 109 55 48 102 58 48 211 113 96 tonl. 2701 2484 5185 ft/ 80 » 85 • 90, 24 26 50 90 . 95, 9 10 19 95 . 100, 3 6 9 104 - 1 1 Total, 2701 2484 5185 Ages of persons in Glasgow, and in the Suburban Parishes of Barony and Gorbals, in 1830. Under Five. Males, 15422 Fcmiles, 14855 Total, 30277 Fifty to Sixty. Males, 5549 Females, 6099 Five to Tew. 13127 12580 25707 Ten to Fifteen. 10491 10720 21211 Fifteen to Txtenty to Thirty to Forty to Twenty. Thirty. Forty, Fifty. 8489 15177 12179 8685 12256 23008 14240 9329 20745 38185 26419 18014 Sixty to Seventy to Eighty to Ninety to a 100 and Total. Seventy, Eighty, Ninety. hundred, upwards, 3228 1090 260 26 1 93724 3692 1502 385 32 4 108702 Total, 11648 6920 2592 645 58 5 202426 About twenty years ago, the causes of death were announced yearly in a periodical along with the gross number of burials, but as no confidence could be placed in such statements, Dr Cle- land has since that period declined to publish a list of diseases ; but, being aware that, if a correct list could be obtained at the cen- sus of 1831, when the population, births, marriages, and deaths, were ascertained, it would be very beneficial in a medical point of new, he addressed letters to upwards of 130 medical gentlemen, in the city, and suburbs, requesting that they would favour him with a return of the diseases of which their patients died during the period in which he had requested the clergymen to give him a note of baptisms. As he only succeeded with a small portion of the members of faculty, the attempt became fruitless, and in all probability any future attempt will be unsuccessful, until a com- pulsory act of the legislature regarding parochial registers for births, marriages, and deaths, be obtained. Dr Cleland having also been 126 LANARKSHIRE. entrusted with drawing up and classifying the Government popula- tion returns for 1821, took the same precautions as to births, mar- riages, burials, and population as in 1831, in the view of being able to ascertain the ages of the population, and the periods of life at which death ensued at particular epochs, when the popula* tion could be accurately ascertained. He states as the result of his experience, that in all the authentic bills of mortaUty he had ever seen, there were more males born than females, but, taking the population above fifteen years, the number of females prepon- derates. The following results for Glasgow are derived from the census of 1831. Births — Males, - 3,527 Females, 3,341 excess of males, 186 Males imder five years, 15,422 Females, 14,855 excess of males, 567 Males under ten years, 28,549 Females, 27,435 excess of males, 1,114 Males under fifteen years, 39,040 Females, 38,155 excess of males, 8^ Males under twenty years, 47,529 Females, 50,41 1 excess of females 2,882 Males under thirty years, 62,706 Females, 73,419 excess of females, 10,718 Males — entire population, 93,724 Females, 108,702 excess of females, 14,978 Burials— Males, - 2,701 Females, 2,484 excess of males, 217 Probability of human life in England. — The want of sufficient data for the formation of tables relative to the probability of hu- man life in this country is apparent from a report of a Ck)nmiittee of the House of Commons, (ordered to be printed on 15th Au- gust 1833,) on the evidence of persons distinguished by their knowledge in political science, such as George Mann Burrows, Esq. Doctor in Medicine ; John Bowring, Esq. M. P. Doctor in Laws; Stacey Grimaldi, Esq. Fellow of the Antiquarian Society; the Rev. W. Hale Hale, Chaplain to the Bishop of London, and others, that the public registers in England are so inefficient as to render it impossible to determine the law of mortality among the working- classes of the empire, either generally or. locally. Mr John Tilley Wheeler, clerk to the Worshipful Company of Parish Clerks stated, that in London, the returns for the mortality bill are made up in each parish by two old pauper womeny who are utterly incompe- tent to give correct information, and frequently receive most falla- cious reports ; and John Finlaison, Esq. the Government Actuary, stated that no faith whatever could be put in bills of mortality as they are now prepared. In order to procure an approximation of the rate of mortality which prevails among the working-classes of this country, that distinguished political inquirer resorted to the public registers at Ostend in Flanders, where he made an observa- tion on the mortality of that town for a period of twenty-six years, ending in 1832. The result of his investigations was, that in a GLASGOW. 127 population consisting of about 1 1,000 souls, the rate of mortality was as omt in tkirty'six and one-eiffhth. Mr Finlaison stated in eridence, that " he was enabled to determine that Ostend is (not- withstanding the opinion that prevails in England) a very healthy ntuation, and no doubt is equal to the average of England, at least the only knowledge of the law of mortality, as prevailing among the lower classes in England, on which he was able to de- pend, is derived from that which he obtained in Flanders." Probability of human life in Glatgow. — That Glasgow is a place of average health for statistical purposes, may be inferred from the statement under the head climate. But more particularly the de- gree of health may be known, and tables formed for ascertaining the probability of human life, from a series of the mortality bills, where the ages of the living, and those of persons who have died, are stated in connection with the population, and a table of longe- vity for Scotland, which Dr Cleland prepared in 1821, by which it appeared that, on an average of all the counties of Scotland, there was one person eighty years of age, for every 143iVo of the population, whilst in the county of Lanark, with a population of 316,790, including 263,046, who live in towns, viz. in Glasgow, 202,426, and in other towns, 60,620, there was one such person for every 169.^^9, showing a degree of health in the population of Glasgow nearly equal to that of the whole of Scotland. The following results have reference to Glasgow and its su- burbs, which partake of a mercantile and manufacturing popula- tion, or something between Liverpool and Manchester, but more especially the latter, the town population being 198,518, and the rural, 3908. In 1831, the population was found to be 202,426, the burials 5185, and the rate of mortality consequently 39.^^5 „. The births being 6868, there is one birth for every 29 iV^ per- sons. The number of marriages being 1919, there are 3iV5 births, to each marriage, and one marriage for every lOS^Yo persons, the number of families being 41,965 there are 4yVu persons to each family. It is very satisfactory to know that with the same machinery in 1821, the population being 147,043, the burials 3686, the rate of mortality was 39 y^^^^, or, in other words, as near as may be to the mortality of 1831. By reference to the bills of mortality between the years 1821 and 1831, similar results will be obtained. Thus it appears that the mortality in England in 1832 was as- sumed to be one in 36| derived from data of about 11,000 souls 128 LANARKSHIRE. • resident in and belonging to a foreign country, while the mortality in Glasgow in the preceding year was only one in SOj^q, as as- certained from a population of upwards of 200,000, whose avo- cations are narrated in the Government census; and as to the principle by which the amount of mortality is ascertained, Joshua Milne, Esq., the celebrated political inquirer, author of a Trea- tise on Annuities, the Law of Mortality, &c. and Actuary to the Sun Life Assurance Corporation, London, stated as his opinion, in reference to the Glasgow bill, published by Dr Cleland in 1831, having reference to former bills, that " the law of mortality in a large manufactuing town may now be determined, though it could not heretofore for want of the necessary data." It is therefore no small honour to Glasgow that it may fairly claim precedence in whatever relates to the formation of accurate tables for ascertain- ing the probability of human life in large commercial and manu- facturing towns. Although every one at all conversant with political science would place the utmost confidence in the testimony of Mr Milne, — that testimony has been fully corroborated by the most distinguished political economists in this country, and on the continent : among others, by Mon. Jean Baptiste Say, the Adam Smith of France, Dr Speiker of Berlin, the German Professor Friedlaender, Sir John Sinclair, author of the original Statistical Account of Scot- land ; the Rev. Dr Chalmers, Professor of Divinity in the Uni- versity of Edinburgh, &c.* * As an appendix to the bill of mortality, we have thought it right to give an ab- stract of a statement which was drawn up for the Board of Health respecting cholera. That dreadful epidemic, cholera morbus, showed itself in this city on the 12th Fe- bruary 1832, and continued to 1 1th November. During that period there were 6208 cases, 3203 recoveries, and 3005 deaths, viz. males, 1289; females 1716; of whom, under 20 years of age, 368; 20 years and under 70, 2365 ; 70 years and under 90, 272. It was found that there had been three eruptions of cholera marked by the reduced nunil)er of cases happening about the 3d of June, the I6th September, and the 1 1th November. Each eruption had a period of increase. In the first eruption, persons poorly fed, of irregular habits, and dwelling in the crowded ill-aired parts of the city, were chiefly affected. The second eruption was more severe, the attacks were more scattered over the town, and many healthy persons, and in easy circumstances, fell vic- tims to the disease. The last eruption was milder than the second, but still suri)as- sing the first, both in the number of cases and in the healthy and good condition of many of the sufferers. The total number of cases, 6208, is one for about every 32^ of the population. The total number of deaths, 3005, is one for about every 67^ of the population. The progress of the disease was such as to have seized one victim for about every «(j?, and to have occasioned one death for about every thirteen families. It became desirable, in a medical and statistical point of view, to ascertain the num- ber of burials during the existence of the cholera, namely, from I2th February to 1 1 th November 1832, as compared with the corresponding period in the preceding year, The following was tlie rebult : GLASGOW. 129 III. — Population. There is no enumeratioD of the inhabitants of Glasgow that can be relied on before the year 1610 ; but there are grounds for sup- posing, that about the time of the Reformation, in 1560, the po- pulation amounted to 4500. In 1610, the Episcopal mode of government having been resum- ed in the church. Archbishop Spottiswood directed the population of the city to be ascertained, when it was found to amount to 7644. In 1660, at the restoration of Charles II., the population amount- ed to 14,67a In 1688, at the Revolution, the population had decreased to 11,948. The civil wars are assigned as the cause of the decrease, and it is a curious historical fact, that the number fell off imme- diately after the restoration of Charles II., and that it required more than half a century to make up the defalcation. In 1708, immediately after the union with England, the popu- lation amounted to 12,766. This enumeration was made by direc- tion of the magistrates, to mark the falling off which they expected. In 1712, the population amounted to 13,832. This was made by order of the Convention of Royal Burghs, directing each of the burghs to make a return of its population on oath. In 1740, the population was ascertained by the magistrates to be 17,034. In 1755, the population had increased to 23,546, but this enu- meration included persons living in houses which had been built adjoining to, but without the royalty. At that perjod, the magis- trates directed returns to be made for the Rev. Dr Webster, then preparing his scheme for the Ministers* Widows' Fund. In 1768, the population amounted to 28,300. This» enumera- tion was drawn up by Mr John Woodburn, the city surveyor. Burials from 12th February to 11th November 1832, including persons who died of cholera, ........ 8124 Deduct those who died of cholera, and were buried in the burying.grounds in the city and suburbs, including 161 persons who died beyond the boundary of the population district, - - - - - - 3166 4958 Burials from 12th February to llth November 1831, - - - 4862 Increase of burials during the above period, aAer deducting deaths by cholera, 96 It was very fortunate, in a statistical point of view, that the pestilence did not visit this city when the Government census was taken, otherwise the data for ten years would have been rendered more indistinct and less suit;ib1e for the formation of tables kr exhibiting the probability of human life in large towns. The paper, of which the preceding is an abstract, was prepared by James Clelnnd, LL. D. Member of the Board of Health, one of his Majesty's justices of the peace for the county of Lanark, and by James Corkindalc, M. D., LL. B., Medical Secretary to the Board of Health. 130 LANARKSHIRE. In 1780, the population had increased to 42,832; but in this enumeration the whole of the suburbs were for the first time in- cluded. In 1785, soon after the termination of the American war, the magistrates directed the population to be ascertained ; it then amounted to 45,889. In 1791, the population was ascertained for Sir John Sinclair's national statistical work. At that time, it amounted to 66,578t including 4633, being part of the suburbs which had been omitted in the return. Prior to 1801, the general results only of the different enume- rations were preserved, but in that year a census of the inhabitants of Great Britain was taken, for the first time, by order of Govern- ment, when the population amounted to — males, 35,007 ; females, 42,378 ; total, 77,385. But in this enumeration, a part of the connected suburbs, the population of which amounted to 6384, had been omitted, and which, added to the above, made the actual population of Glasgow at that time 83,769. In 1811, there was another Government enumeration of the in- habitants of Great Britain, according to which the population of Glasgow was as follows : — males, 45,275 ; females, 55,474 ; to- tal, 100,749. But, in like manner, a part of the connected suburbs, the population of which amounted to 9711, had not been included in this enumeration, and which, added to the Go- vernment table, made the population of the city at that period 110,460. In 1819, Dr Cleland, under the sanction of the public bodies, drew up the first classified enumeration of the inhabitants of Glas- gow, according to which, the population amounted to — males, 68,994; females, 78,203; total, 147,197. In 1821, there was another Government enumeration of the in- habitants of Great Britain, when the population of Glasgow was — males, 68,119; females, 78,924; total, 147,043. In 1831, there was a fourth enumeration of the inhabitatfts of Great Britain, according to which, the population of Glasgow was — males, 93,724; females, 108,702; total, 202,426. IV. — Commerce and Manufactures. Glasgow is advantageously situated for commercial pursuits. Placed on the borders of one of the richest coal and mineral fields in the island, with which it communicates by the Monkland Canal, and by various rail-roads, and connected on the one hand with the 4 GLASGOW. 131 Atlantic by the Clyde, and on the other with the North Sea and the German Ocean, by the Forth and Clyde Canal, and the ri?er Forth, it possesses facilities peculiarly favourable for trade. Notwithstanding these local advantages, Glasgow was not remark- able for trade until a considerable time after the union with Eng- land. Its importance in a commercial point of view may be great- ly attributed to the improvements on the Clyde, and to the enter- prising spirit of its merchants and manufacturers during the last seventy years. In 1420, a Mr Elphinstone is mentioned as a curer of salmon and herrings for the French market ; and Princi- pal Baillie mentions that this trade had greatly increased between the years 1630 and 1664. As an encouragement to trade, then in its infancy, an act was passed, in which it was stipulated that the whole materials used in particular manufactures should be ex- empt from duty; and in the same Parliament it was enacted, for the better encouragement of soap manufacturers, that oil, pot- ashes, and other materials for making soap, should be exempt from duty. On 31st of January 1638, " Robert Fleyming and his partners made offer to the town-council, to set up a manufac- tory in the city, wherein a number of the poorer sort of the people may be employed, provided they met with sufficient countenance. On considering which offer, the council resolved, in consideration of the great good, utility, and profit, which will redound to the city, to give the said company a lease of their great lodging and back yard in the Drygate, excepting the two front vaults, free of renty for the space of seventeen years. On 8th May thereafter, the convener of the trades reported, that the freemen weavers were afraid that the erecting of the manufactory would prove hurtful to them. On which, Patrick Bell, one of the partners, agreed that the com- pany should not employ any unfree weavers of the town." Printing. — Letter-press printing was introduced into Glasgow by George Anderson in the year 1638 ; and one of the first works print- ed by him was an account of the General Assembly, which met there the same year. Anderson came to Glasgow in consequence of an invitation from the magistrates. It appears from the records of the town-council, 4th January 1640, that the treasurer was direct- ed to pay him 100 punds, in satisfaction of his expenses " in trans- porting his gear to this burghe," and in full of his bygone salaries from Whitsunday 1638 till Martinmas 1639. It also appears from the records of the council, 10th June 1663, that Anderson was succeeded by his son, Andrew, as ordinary printer to the town and 132 LANARKSHIRE. College, on condition of his " services as well, and his prices being as easy as others." Andrew, who had been a printer in Edinburgh, not finding matters to his mind here, returned to Edinburgh, and in 1671 he was made King's printer for Scotland. Anderson was succeeded in Glasgow by Robert Saunders, who styled himself printer to the city, and who was for many years the only printer in the west of Scotland. But his predecessor, now the royal ty- pographer, came to Glasgow, and by threats and promises prevail- ed on Saunders' workmen to desert him in the midst of an impres- sion of the New Testament. This oppressive conduct brought the matter before the privy-council, which decided in Ifccember 1671, that Saunders should be allowed to finish his book, and that any printer in Scotland had an equal right with his Majesty's to print the New Testament and Psalm Book in the letter common- ly called English Roman. Saunders died about 1696, leaving his printing establishment to his son Robert, better known by the de- signation " of Auldhouse," — a property purchased from a younger branch of the family of Maxwell of Polloc A few of the works first printed by him were tolerably executed ; but his latter pro- ductions are extremely paltry and inaccurate. Printing was now, and for some years afterwards, in the lowest state in Scotland. The exorbitancy of the royal grant to Anderson had produced the worst effects. No person appears to have been employed for the sole purpose of correcting the press ; and the low wages given to pressmen, with the badness of the machines themselves, also tend- ed to retard the improvement. The University, in the meantime, was not wanting in efforts to improve the printing in Glasgow. A. paper, entitled " Proposals for erecting a bookseller's shop, and a printing-press in the Uni- * versity of Glasgow," appears to have been presented to the faculty in 1713, in which it is mentioned, that they were " obliged to go to Edinburgh in order to get one sheet right printed." During the same year, Thomas Harvie, a student of divinity, engaged to fur- nish one or more printing-presses, and in the course of four years to furnish founts and other materials for printing Greek, Latin, and Hebrew, on condition that he should be declared University printer and bookseller for forty years, " with all the privileges and immunities which the University hath, or shall have hereafter, to bestow on their printer and bookseller." Although these terms were probably not ultimately accepted, they seem at least to have been under frequent consideration ; and the sketch of a contract GLASGOW. 133 with Harvie is preserved among the University papers. Two years afterwards, ** Donald Govane, younger, Qierchant in Glasgow, and printer," was appointed to the same oflSce for seven years, but his name appears at few books. James Duncan, who printed M'Ure's History of Glasgow, con- tinued to print here till about the year 1750. Robert Urie and Company were printers in the Gallowgate in 1740; and, during the following year, executed several works for Robert FauUs, (im- properly termed Fowlis.) Urie is entitled to the credit of adding to the respectability of the Glasgow press. Amongst the finest specimens of his work, are his editions of the Greek New Testa- ment, and of the Spectator. But the art of printing was carried to great perfection by the Messrs Faulls, who introduced into Glasgow a style of printing which, for beauty and correctness, has never been surpassed in any country. A brief account of these distinguished persons cannot fail to be interesting. Robert Faulls, -the eldest son of Andrew Faulls, maltster, was born in or near Glasgow, on the 20th of April 1707, and his brother Andrew on the 22dof November 1712. Robert was sent at an early period as an apprentice to a barber, and seems to have practised the art of shaving for some time on his own account. While in this situation, Dr Francis Hutcheson, then Professor of Moral Philoso- phy in the University, discovered in him the talent which was after- wards cultivated with so much success, encouraged his desire of knowledge, and suggested to him the idea of becoming a booksel- ler and printer. Although Robert Faulb did not receive a com- plete University education, he continued to attend for several years the lectures of his patron ; but Andrew received a more regular education, and for some years taught the Latin, Greek, and French languages. Having thus acquired a pretty accurate knowledge of books, Robert began business in Glasgow as a bookseller in 1741, and in the following year the first production of his press appear- ed. He was assisted in the correction of his press by George Rosse, then Professor of Humanity in the University, and by James Moor, at that time a tutor about the college, and afterwards Pro- fessor of Greek. To these advantages may be added the appoint- ment, on 31 St March 1743, of the elder brother as printer to the University. In the same year he produced Demetrius Pkalerius de Elocutioue, apparently the first Greek book printed in Glas* gow, though George Anderson's printing-house had been nearly a century before supplied with Greek and Hebrew types. In 1744, LANARK. K 134 LANARKSHIRE. appeared the celebrated edition of Horace, the proof sheets of which, it is well known, were hung up in the college, and a reward offered to any one who should discover an inaccuracy. By the year 1746, FauUs had printed eighteen different classics, besides Dr Hutcheson's class-book in English and Latin ; and Homer with the Philippics of Demosthenes, were advertised as in the press. The Homer appeared in the following year, both in a quarto and in an octavo form. The first of these is a very beautiful book, and more correct than the other, which was printed after Dr Clarke's edition. The success which had attended the efforts of the FauUses as printers, induced the elder brother to extend the sphere of his usefuhiess. After being four times abroad, he sent home to his brother a painter, an engraver, and a copperplate printer, whom he had engaged in his service, and returned to Scotland in 1753, and soon afterwards instituted an academy in Glasgow for painting, engraving, moulding, modelling, and drawing. The University allowed him the use of a large hall for exhibiting his pictures, and several other rooms for his students ; and three Glasgow merchants afterwards became partners in the undertaking. The students, according to the proposed plan, after having given proofs of genius at home, were to be sent abroad at the expense of the academy. But the scheme, which was somewhat romantic, did not succeed, and was attended with considerable loss to all concerned. In' FauU's own words, " there seemed to be a pretty general emula- tion, who should run it most down." Letter-press printing has been carried on of late years to such an extent that it could not be accomplished without the aid of steam. Printing-machines were invented by Mr Nicholson, editor of the Philosophipal Journal, about the year 1790, but they were first constructed, and put in operation, if not invented anew, by a German named Konig about twenty to thirty years ago, and set agoing in the printing of the London Times newspaper on 28th November 1814, steam being the propelling power. The ma- chines may be said to consist of two kinds, — those which print only one side of a sheet of paper at a time, for newspaper work, — and those which print both sides of the sheet, and are adapted for book work. Messrs Ballantyne and Company of Edinburgh were the first in Scotland who printed by steam. In 1829 or 1830, they fitted up a steam-press for printing Blackwood's Magazine, and the Waverley Novels. Soon after this, the Edinburgh, Leith, and Glasgow Advertiser was printed by steam, then the Edinburgh GLASGOW. 135 Weekly Chronicle, Chambers' Journal, and the Farmers' Maga- zine. In 1831, the Aberdeen Journal was printed in this way ; and in 1834, Mr Edward Khull, printer to the University, fitted up a steam-press for printing the Church of Scotland Magazine in this city. A copartnery for carrying on the whale fishery and making soap was entered into in this city on the 15th of September 1674. Mr George Maxwell of Polloc, (created a baronet in 1682,) Provost William Anderson, and James Colquhoun, one of the bailies uf the city, were among the original partners. The company em- ployed five ships ; and the Providence, built at Belfast, was sailed by Mr John Anderson, one of the partners. The company had extensiTe premises at Greenock for boiling blubber and curing fish. An advertisement appeared from them in the Glasgow Courant on the llih of November 1715, being the first advertisement in the first newspaper in the west of Scotland. It was in the following words : — " Any one who wants good black or speckled soap may be served by Robert Luke, manager of the soaparie of Glasgow, at reasonable rates." The soaparie was at the head of Candle- riggs Street, now the Commercial Buildings. The manufacture of ropes was commenced on the 17th of March 1696. Mr William Crawford of Jordanhill, and Mr James Corbet of Kenmure, were among the first partners. In 1698, an act of Parliament was passed for the further encouragement of the manufacture of ropes and cordage in Glasgow, laying a duty on all ropes imported from the 'Sound or east seas; and, in return, the company were to advance a capital of L. 40,000 Scots, and to bring in foreigners to the work. It is probable that the company's first premises had gone into decay, as the buildings of what was afterwards known by the name of the Glasgow Rope- work Company, reaching between Stockwell Street and Jamaica Street, were not erected till the autumn of 1766. With regard to sugar-houses, although the colonies were not laid open to ^he Scotch until the Union, it appears that there were su- gar-houses in Glasgow long before that period ; for, in an action which the Crown brought against the sugar bakers in Glasgow and Leith, it was urged that they had not only enjoyed the exemption from the duties and customs on the import of materials for a great number of years, but also the duties of excise upon the spirits and other commodities manufactured by them. At length, in 1715, a process was raised against them for the bygone excise duties ; and. 136 LANARKSHIRE. in 1719, the Court of Exchequer found them liable in the sum of L. 40,000 Sterling. As the trade could not pay any such sum, a compromise was suggested, and a clause added to an act of Par- liament, authorizing the treasury to treat with them; and, by another act, the sugar manufacturers were acquitted of the L. 40,000 on relinquishing their right of exemption from duties and customs. The statute is general, and seems to subject all other privileged parties to the general custom and excise of the nation. The only parties in Scotland at that time exempt from the importation du- ties were the Glasgow and Leith sugar companies, the Glasgow soap-work, the rope-work companies, and a pin manufactory; the three last made a claim as a compensation for the surrender of their private rights, which does not seem to have been attended to. The buildings of Stockwell Place are now erected on the site of the sugar-house. The tanning of leather seems to have been carried on in Glas- gow from an early period. The Glasgow Tan-work Company, whose extensive premises were at the head of the Gallowgate, com- menced soon after the Union. There seems to have been three sets of partners in this great undertaking. In 1780, the names of Provost John Bowman ; Mr Alexander Speirs, of Elderslie ; Mr John Campbell, of Clathic; Mr Robert Bogle, of Daldowie; Mr Robert Marshall, and others, appear among its partners. The brewing business, like the tanning, seems to have been car- ried on with great spirit. Soon after the Union, Mr Crawford of Milton erected an extensive brewery at Grahamston, afterwards the property of Mr Robert Cowan. The brewing trade was car- ried on extensively here at an early period by the Anderston Brew- ery Company, and latterly by Messrs Blackstock, Baird, Struthers, Buchanan, Hunter, &c. Previously to the Union, the foreign trade of Glasgow was chiefly confined to Holland and France. The union of the kingdoms, which took place in 1707, having opened the colonies to the Scotch, the merchants of Glasgow immediately availed themselves of the circumstance, and having engaged extensively in a trade with Vir- ginia and Maryland, soon made their city a mart for tobacco, and the chief medium through which the farmers-general of France re- ceived their supplies of that article. In 1721, a remonstrance was preferred to the Lords of the Treasury, charging the Glasgow mer- chants with fraud. After having heard parties, and considered the representation, their Lordships dismissed the complaint "as ground- GLASGOW. 137 less, and proceediDg from a spirit of envy, not from a regard to the interest of trade or the King's revenue." To such an extent was this branch of commerce carried on in Glasgow, that for several years previously to 1770, the annual import of tobacco into the Clyde was from 35,000 to 45,000 hogsheads. In 1771, 49,016 hc^sheads were imported. As the Glasgow merchants were en- abled to undersell, and did undersell, those of London, Bristol, Liverpool, and Whitehaven, jealousies arose which ended in liti-* gation. As the tobacco trade was suspended in 1783, at the break- ing out of the war with America, the merchants of Glasgow engag- ed their capital in other pursuits. Some attempts having been made to open a connection with the West Indies, the imports from that quarter into the Clyde in 1775 were as follow: Sugar, 4621 hogsheads, and 691 tierces; rum, 1154 puncheons, and 193 hogsheads ; cotton, 503 bags. The fol- lowing excerpt of imports into the Clyde, from the custom-house books, shows the great increase of this trade. In the year ending the 5th of January 1815, immediately preceding the battle of Wa- terloo, there were imported, sugar, 540,198 cwts. 2 quarters, and 25 lbs.; mm, 1,251,092 gallons; cotton-wool, 6,530,177 lbs. The import duties of these and other articles amounted to L. 563,058, 2s. 6d., and the produce was imported in 448 ships, carrying 79,219 tons, and employing 4868 men in navigating them. These imports are, exclusive of grain, hemp, tallow, &c from the Baltic, through the Great Canal. The exports during the same period to Ame- rica, the West Indies, and Europe, amounted to L. 4,016,181, 12s. 2^., and 592 ships, 94,350 tonnage, and 6476 men, were employed in this traffic In 1718, the art of type-making was introduced by James Dun- can. The types used by him are evidently of his own making, being rudely cut, and badly proportioned. He deserves credit, however, for the attempt, and his letters are little inferior to those used by the other Scottish printers of that period. In M'Ure's History of Glasgow, he is styled " printer to the city." In 1740, the art was brought to great perfection by Mr Alexan- der Wilson, afterward Professor of Astronomy in this University, and by bis fnend Mr John Baine. They first settled at St An- drews, the place of their nativity, but soon after removed to Cam- lachie, a suburb of this city, where they carried on business till the partnership was dissolved on Mr Baine's going to Dublin, where he remained but a short time. The professor removed to Glas- 138 LANARKSHIRE. gow, and lived to see his foundery become the most extensive and the most celebrated of any in Europe. At his death, the business was carried on by his son, and continued by the family on a very extensive scale for a number of years. As a considerable part of their types went to London and Edinburgh, and as other type- makers had commenced business here, the Messrs Wilsons, in 1834, removed their business from this city, one part of it to London, and the other to Edinburgh ; Alexander conducting the London de- partment, and Patrick the Edinburgh. Although the origin of stereotyping is uncertain, it is evident that it was not invented by the French. If it be a modern inven- tion, or there be any question as to the country in which it was first used, the Scots are entitled to the preference ; for there certainly was an instance of the art having been used in Edinburgh many years before the earliest date at which it is said, or is even suppos- ed to have been used in France. And in evidence of this, refer- ence is made to the original stereotyped page of Sallust, with the plate and matrix, as well as a copy of the book, in the Hunterian Museum at Glasgow. Mr Andrew Duncan introduced stereotyp- ing into this city in 1818; and since that period, Messrs Hutchi- son and Brookman, Edward KhuU, Blackie and Son, and Fuller- ton and Company, carry on the business of stereotyping to a very great extent. Steam Engines as applicable to Manufactures, — As the great im- provement on the steam-engine was made in Glasgow, a brief ac- count of that mighty engine may not be improper here. The steam-engine was invented in the reign of Charles II. by the Mar- quis of Worcester, who, in the year 1663, published a book en- titled A Century of Inventions. But as the Marquis, though not- able as a theoretical projector, knew little of practical detail, Cap- tain Savary took up the subject, and published a book in 1696, en- titled The Miner* s Friend^ where he described the principles of his improvement, for which he obtained a patent. About this time, M. Papin, a Frenchman, came to England, and becoming fami-r liar with the elastic power of steam, on his return home he was employed by Charles, Landgrave of Hesse, to raise water by a ma- chine which he constructed ; and from this, his countrymen affect- ed to consider him as the inventor of the steam-engine. In 1707, he published an account of his inventions. Not long after this, Mr Amonton contrived a machine which he called a fire-wheel. It consisted of a number of buckets placed in the circumference of GLASGOW. 139 the wheel, and communicating with each other by very circuitous passages. One part of the circumference was exposed to the heat of a furnace, and another to a stream or cistern of cold water. At the death of Amonton, M. Dessandes, a member of the Acade- my of Sciences at Paris, presented to the academy a project of a steam-wheel, where the impulsive force of the vapours was impel- led ; but it met with little encouragement. In the meantime, the English engineers had so much improved Savary's invention, that it supplanted all others. Mr Newcomen, a blacksmith at Dart- mouth in Devonshire, observing that Savary's engine could not lift water from deep mines, set his genius to work, and made great im- provements on it. Savary's engine raised water by the force of steam ; but, in Newcomen's contrivance, this was done by the pressure of the atmosphere, and steam was employed merely as the most ex- peditious method of producing a vacuum. This engine was first offered to the public in 1705, but its imperfections were not removed till 1717, when Mr Beighton brought it into its present form. The greatest improvement on the steam-engine was, however, reserved for Mr James Watt, who was born at Greenock on the 1 9th of January 1736. When Mr Watt had completed his edu- cation in Greenock and Glasgow, he went to London in 1754, and returned in 1757, and in a short time he was appointed philoso- phical instrument-maker to the university. This circumstance laid the foundation of an intimacy with Drs Adam Smith, Black, and Dick, Mr Anderson, Mr Robison, and other distinguished persons connected vnth the university. In contemplating the principles of a small working model of Newcomen's steam-engine, which Pro- fessor Anderson sent him to repair, Mr Watt thought it capable of improvement ; and having procured an apartment in Delftfield, he shut himself up along with his apprentice, Mr John Gardner, after- wards a philosophical instrument-maker in this city, and it was in this place that the foundation of the great improvement on the steam-engine was laid.* In 1769, Mr Watt, on the recommenda- tion of Dr Black, formed a connection with Dr Roebuck of Carron * When Jean Baptiste Say, the celebrated French philosopher, Tisited Glasgow several jears ago, he sat down in the class>room chair which had been used by Dr Adam Smith, and after a short prayer, said) with great fervour, " Lord, let now thy servant depart in peace." in August 1834, when the no less celebrated M. Arago, Perpetual Secretary to the French Institute, visited this University, accompanied by Piincipal MacfarUn, Professor MacGill, Professor Mcikleham, and Dr Cleland, he requested to see the small model of Newcomen's steam-engine, which directed Mr Walt's mind to his great improvements. On the engine iK'ing shown him, he express ^ great delight, and considered it as a relic of great value. 140 LANARKSHIRE. Iron-works, when he left Glasgow for Kinneil House, near these works, where he constructed a small steam-engine. The cylinder was of block-tin, eighteen inches diameter. The first experiment, which was made at a coal mine, succeeded to admiration ; indeed his success was so great, that he procured a patent '^ for saving steam and fuel in fire-engines." Dr Roebuck's affairs becoming embarrassed in 1775, Mr Watt formed a connection with Mr Boul- ton of Soho, Birmingham, where they had the exclusive privilege of making steam-engines for a period of twenty-Jive years. On the expiration of the exclusive privilege, the engineers of this city commenced making steam-engines ; and to such an extent is this business carried on here for every part of the country, that there are now fourteen firms who make steam-engines or mill ma- chinery. Some of the works are more like national than private undertakings. Three houses alone employ upwards of 1000 per- sons in this important branch of trade. It appears from Dr Cleland's folio statistical work, that in 1831 there were in Glasgow and its suburbs thirty-one different kinds of manufactures where steam-engines are used, and that in these, and in collieries, quarries, and steam-boats, there were 355 steam-en- gines = 7366 horse power ; average power of engines rather more than twenty horses each. The increase of engines in four years may be taken at about 10 per cent. The Cotton Trade. — The manufacture of linens, lawns, cambrics, and other articles of similar fabric, was introduced into Glasgow about the year 1725, and continued to be the staple manufacture till they were succeeded by muslins. The following is a brief ac- count of that important event : About the year 1730, the late Mr J. Wyatt of Birmingham first conceived the project of spinning cotton yarn by machinery. The wool had to be carded in the common way, and was pressed between two cylinders, whence the bobbin drew it by means of the twist. In 1741 or 1742, the first mill for spinning cotton was erected in Birmingham ; it was turned by two asses walking round an axis, and ten girls were employed in attending the work. A work upon a larger scale on a stream of water was soon after this established at Northampton under the direction of Mr Yeoman ; but nothing new had occurred in weaving till 1750, when Mr John Kay, a weaver in Bury, invented the fly shuttles. In 1760, Mr James Hargreave, a weaver at Stanhill, near Church in Lanca- 4 GLASGOW. 141 shire, adapted the stock cards used in the woollen manufacture, to the carding of cotton, and greatly improved them. By their means, a person was able to do double the work, and with more ease than by hand-carding. This contrivance was soon succeeded by the cy- linder carding-machine. It has not been ascertained who was the inventor of this valuable machine, but it is known, that the grand- &ther of Sir Robert Peel, late first Lord of the Treasury, was among the first who used it In 1767, Mr Hargreave invented the spinning jenny. This machine, although of limited powers, when compared with the beautiful inventions which succeeded it, must be considered as the first and leading step in that progress of dis- covery, which carried improvement into every branch of the manu- facture, changing as it proceeds, the nature and character of the means of production, by substituting mechanical operation for hu- man labour. The progress of invention after this was rapid. Hargreave in the meantime had removed to Nottingham, where he erected a small spinning work, and soon afterwards died in great poverty. The jenny having in a short time put an end to the spinning of cotton by the common wheel, the whole wefts used in the manufacture continued to be spun upon that machine, until the invention of the mule jenny, by which in its turn it was super- seded. It would appear, that whilst Hargreave was producing the common jenny, Mr (afterwards Sir Richard) Arkwright, was em- ployed in contriving that wonderful piece of mechanism, the spin- ning-frame, which, when put in motion, performs of itself the whole process of spinning, leaving to man only the office of sup- plying the material, and of joining or piecing the thread.* In 1769, Mr Arkwright obtained his patent for spinning with rollers, and he erected his first mill at Nottingham, which he worked by horse power. But this mode of giving motion to the machinery being expensive, he built another mill at Cromford in Derbyshire, in 1771, to which motion was given by water. Water- twist received its name from the circumstance of the machinery from which it is obtained, having for a long time after its invention been generally put in motion by water. The only improvement or even alteration yet made on Sir Richard's contrivance, the spin- ning-frame, is the machine invented several years ago, called the throstle. Instead of four or six spmdles being coupled together, * 'lliose who detire a more minute account of the early history of the cotton trade, arc referred to a valuable and elaborate work on that stibject, by Mr John Kennedy of Manchester. * 142 LANARKSHIRE. forming what is called a head, with a separate movement by a pulley and drum, as is the case in the frame, the whole rollers and spindles on both sides of the throstle are connected together, and turned by bands from a tin cylinder lying horizontally under the machine, but its chief merit consists in the simplification of the apparatus, which renders the movement lighter. Besides this, the throstle can with more ease and at less expense than the frame be altered to spin the different grists of yarn. In the year 1775, Mr Samuel Crompton, of Bolton, completed his invention of the mule jenny, so called from its being in its struc- ture and operation a compound of the spinning-frame, and of Har- greave's jenny. The mule was originally worked by the spinner's band, but in the year 1792, Mr William Kelly of Glasgow, at that time manager of the Lanark mills, obtained a patent for moving it by machinery ; and although the undisputed inventor of the pro- cess, he allowed every one freely to avail himself of its advantages. A great object expected to be obtained by this improvement was, that, instead of employing men as spinners, which was indispen- sable when the machine was to be worked by the hand, children would be able to perform every office required. To give the means of accomplishing this, Mr Kelly's machinery was contrived so as to move every part of the mule, even to the returning of the carriage into its place, after the draught was finished. But after a short trial of this mode of spinning it was discovered that a greater amount of produce might be obtained, and at a cheaper rate, by taking back the men as spinners, and employing them to return the car- riage as formerly, whilst the machine performed the other operations. In tliis way one man might spin two mules, the carriage of the one moving out during the time the spinner was engaged in returning the other. The process of mule-spinning continued to be conduct- ed upon this plan until lately, when several proprietors of large cotton works restored that part of Mr Kelly's machinery which re- turns the carriage into its place after the draught is completed. During the time that the machines for the different processes of cotton spinning were advancing towards perfection, Mr James Watt had applied his admirable improvements on the steam-en- gine to give motion to mill-work in general. His inventions for this end, besides the ingenuity and beauty of contrivance which they possess, have had an influence upon the circumstances of this country, and of mankind, far more important than that produced by any other mechanical discovery. GLASGOW. 143, The foregoing application merely assisted the spinner in push- ing in the carriage. To meet the more nice and difficult operations of winding the thread upon the spindle, and forming it into the -proper shape of a cop, still devolved upon the spinner, and required per- sons of superior skill and dexterity. The wages of that class of workmen have been maintained at a higher range than in the ge- nerality of manufacturing employments. This high rate of wages has led to the contrivance of many expedients to lessen the cost of production in this process of the manufacture. About the year 1795, Mr Archibald Buchanan of Catrine, now one of the oldest practical spinners in Britain, and one of the earliest pupils of Ark- wright, became connected with Messrs James Finlay and Com- pany, of Glasgow, and engaged in refitting their works at Ballin- dalloch in Stirlingshire. Having constructed very light mule jen- nies, he dispensed altogether with the employment of men as spin- ners, and trained young women to the work. These he found more easily directed than the men, more steady in attendance to their work, and more cleanly and tidy in the keeping of their ma- chines, and contented with much smaller wages. That work has ever since been wrought by women, and they have always been remarkable for their stout healthy appearance, as well as for good looks, and extreme neatness of dress. Mr Buchanan having, in 1802, removed to the Catrine works, in the parish of Sorn, Ayr- shire, then purchased by James Finlay and Company, carried some female spinners with him, and there introduced most successfully the same system as at Ballindalloch. This system has from time to time been partially adopted at other works in Scotland and Eng- land ; but men are still most generally employed. The men having formed a union for the protection of their trade, as they supposed, have from time to time annoyed their employers with vexatious interferences and restrictions, which have induced a great desire on the part of the masters to be able to dispense with their employment; and this has led to several attempts to invent a set of mechanism to perform all the operations hitherto performed by men or women, thereby forming a self-acting mule. Mr William Kelly was the first to patent a machine of this description in the J ear 1792, as has already been stated. About the same time, Mr Archibald Buchanan of Catrine Works, then at Deanston Works, in Perthshire, made an attempt to perfect a self-acting mule, but was not at that time successful. The next attempt was made by Mr Eaton of Derbv, who took out a patent in 1815, and fitted up 144 LANARKSHIRE. a flat of his mills in Manchester soon after. The mechanism being complicated, no practical spinners ventured to give the machine a trial. In 1825, M. de Jonge, an ingenious French gentleman, who has been long resident in this country, contrived a machine of more simple construction, for which he obtained a patent This he had in operation at Warrington in Lancashire, and in Yorkshire; but they have never made farther progress. The spinners of Man- chester and neighbourhood having been much annoyed by the union of their spinners, applied to Messrs Sharp, Roberts, and Company, celebrated machine-makers, to allow their Mr Roberts, a man of great ingenuity, and of much skill and taste in mechanism, to en- deavour to perfect a self-acting mule. This Mr Roberts under- took ; and having devoted himself to the pursuit, succeeded, after several years of experiment, and at the expense of a large sum of money, (upwards, it is said, of L. 10,000, ) in producing a machine which has been found to work well in the spinning of yarn, not ex- ceeding forty hanks in the pound. In the construction of this ma- chine there is a display of great ingenuity, skill, and taste, and it has been adopted to some extent by several extensive spinners* Still, however, there are objections to these machines, on account of the complexity and expense of the mechanism ; and from the peculiar style of the movements, the machine is still liable to break- age, and to considerable tear and wear. About the year 1826, Mr Buchanan having to renew the mules at Catrine Works, re- solved to attempt again a self-actor ; and with some suggestions from his nephew, Mr James Smith of Deanston Works, and with much ingenuity and perseverance on his own part, he succeeded in contriving an effective machine. He has had his whole work in operation on this plan for six years past, and under his peculiar good management, the machines perform very well in low num- bers. In 1820, Mr James Smith of Deanston Works had con- trived and constructed the mechanism of a self-acting mule ; but his attention having been required to other more extensive and important operations, he laid it aside, it is believed, without trial. In 1833, Mr Smith seeing the desire that existed for a simple and efficient self-acting mule, and more especially such as could be applied to the mules of various constructions at present in general use in the trade, set about contriving one ; and, having made some progress, he came to hear of a very simple contrivance for facili- tating the process of backing off (one of the most difficult to ac- GLASGOW. 145 complish iu a self-actor,) by John Robertson, an operative spin- ner, and foreman to Mr James Orr of Croftbead Mill, in Renfrew- shire. Robertson, through Mr Orr, obtained a patent for his in- vention, which consisted of other movements, rendering the mule completely self-acting. Mr Smith, struck with the simplicity and efficacy of his backing-off movement, which consists in stripping the coils from the spindles, entered into an arrangement with Mr Orr and Robertson, and having united the mechanism of his own patent with that of Robertson and Orr, they have now brought out a machine, which is considered to be more simple and effective, and more generally applicable to all mules, than any other yet brought before the trade, and it is believed it will soon be gene- rally adopted. The adoption of the self-acting mules will bring the business of spinning much more under the control of the master, and will aid much in enabling the spinners of Britain to maintain a success- ful competition against the cheap labour of other countries, who have less capital and less facilities for obtaining these improved machines, and less skill for their management, if obtained. About six years ago, Mr Smith of Deanston Works, invented a very simple throstle for spinning water-twist yarn, in the form of a cop, intended to facilitate the manufacture of water-twist shirt- ing. This machine works well, and the tension of the thread in spinning is maintained by the action of two fanner's slades or wings attached to the stem of a spindle, similar to a mule spindle, and on which the cop is built ; and which, from the uniform and soft resistance of the air, gives a never-varying tension. But the most wonderful improvement in water-spinning was brought to this coun- try from the United States in 1831, by Mr Alexander Carrick, a native of Glasgow, who then obtained a patent for the invention. The inventor, a mechanic of the name of Danforth, came with the machine to this country, and it has now obtained his name, being denominated the Danforth Throstle. This throstle has no flies. The twisting part consists of a dead or fast spindle, on which a socket of about five inches long is fitted to revolve, and on this the bobbin for receiving the thread being spun is placed. On the top of the spindle is placed a hollow cap of one and a-half to two in- ches diameter, which covers the bobbin ; and the thread, passing from the roller to the bobbin, is revolved by the motion of the socket and bobbin round the outer surface of this cap ; but the centrifugal force of the thread causes it to fly out from the cap, 14G LANARKSHIRE. and the only point of contact is round the edge of the mouth of the cap, when the thread passes to the bobbin. From this, and the resistance of the air to the movement of the thread, the ten- sion is derived, and is light and uniform. The spindle of the com- mon throstle cannot be driven to advantage above 4000 or 5000 revolutions in a minute, whilst the Danforth socket may be run with advantage at 8000 or 9000. This machine has been slowly getting into use, and suits to spin twist from tens to forties. The yarn has a medium character, betwixt water-twist and mule-twist. The power required to turn this machine is great, and the tear and wear of the machine considerable. Another American throstle (which, however, was invented in Scotland thirty years ago,) was introduced about four years ago, by Mr Montgomerie of Johnston. It consists of a long central spindle, embraced by a double-necked flur, and is said to work well, building the yarn in the form of a cop, or on a bobbin, as may be required. Several are at work about Glasgow. By these and other improvements in the various pro- cesses of cotton spinning, as much yarn can now be spun for 5s. of wages as cost L. 1 twenty-five years ago. * In the year 1797, a new machine for cleaning cotton was invent- ed by Mr Neil Snodgrass, now of Glasgow, and first used at John- ston, near Paisley, by Messrs Houston and Company. It is called a skutching or blowing machine. Its merits were not sufficiently known till 1808 or 1809, when it was introduced into Manchester. About that period it received some improvements from Mr Ark- wright, and Mr Strutt, who applied a fanner to create a strong draft of air passing through a revolving wire sieve, whereby the dust and small flur separated from the cotton by the blows of the skutcher is carried off, and thrown into a chamber, where it is de- posited, or into the open air out of doors ; whilst the opened cot- ton is stopped by the sieve, and, arranging into a fleecy form of uniform thickness, passes by the revolution of the sieve to a roller, when it is wound up, to be carried to the carding-engine. The most complete arrangement of this machine was made by • III November 1831, Dr Cleland ascertained, that in 44 mills in Lanarkshire, for spinning cotton, there were 1844 spinners, 640,188 spindles, viz. 591,288 mules, and 48,900 throstles. On 21st July 1834, the total number of persons employed in the cotton, woollen, flax, and silk mills in Scotland, was 46,823, of whom 13,721 (3799 males, and 9992 females) are between the ages of 13 and 18, and 6228 (2552 males, and 3676 females,) are under 13 years of age. There are few under 1 1. Tlieir number, as stated in the returns, amounts to 1143; but that is not to be taken as the number now in the mills some mill owners having discharged all under 11 Factory Report j p. 7. 3 GLASGOW. 147 Mr Buchanan of Catrine Works in 1817, whereby the whole pro- cesses of opening, cleaning, and lapping the cotton are performed at once by a series of four skutchers, each with a sieve. The rooms in which these machines work are as free of dust as a drawing-room; and this process, at one time the most disagreeable and unwhole- some, is now quite the reverse ; besides, the cotton being com- pletely freed of the dust and flur, is more cleanly in all succeed- ing processes, much to the comfort of the workers, and the bene- fit of the work. • Little improvement was made in the carding-engine for many years. About 1812, however, a system of completing the carding process in one machine was introduced, and is now pretty generally adopt- ed for numbers under fifties, and in some cases as high as eighties. In 1815, Mr Smith of Deanston Works, constructed a carding-en- gine, having the flats or tops moveable on hinges, and applied an apparatus for turning and cleaning the tops, which was the first self-topping engine ; and with him the idea had originated. Two years after, Mr Buchanan arranged a more perfect machine, and had it adopted in all his water-twist mills. Some years after, he farther improved this apparatus, and obtained a patent. In 1829, Mr Smith again improved the topping apparatus, by substituting a chain of successive tops, and had them made of tin plate, to avoid warping. This improvement, together with a neat and effective arrangement of cylinders, forming a compact single engine, he com- pleted in 1833, and obtained a patent These engines occupy about half the space of the Oldham en- gine much used in England, make more perfect work, and will turn off nearly two pounds per inch of wire per day, for numbers from thirties to forties. Some of the movements are extremely striking and beautiful. This machine gives promise of many advantages to the trade. In the roving process some recent improvements have been in- troduced. About ten years ago, Mr Henry Houldsworth Junior of Glasgow, now of Manchester, contrived a beautiful differential mo- tion for the winding in of the rovings on the spindle and fly ma- chine, andobtaifled a patent. This improvement has got much into use. About the same time a very peculiar mode of roving was introduced from America, by the late Mr James Dunlop, and which was afterwards improved, and patented by Mr Dyer of Man- chester. This machine is called the tube-machine, and has got much into use for the lower numbers of yarns. The rove coming 148 LANARKSHIKK. from the drawing rollers, passes through a tube revolving at the rate of 5000 turns per minute, whereby a hard twist is thrown up to the rollers, and the roving being wound on a spool or bobbin at the opposite end of the tube, gives off all the twist, but from the compression and rubbing it has undergone, retains a round and compact form, and has sufficient tenacity to pull round the spool or bobbin, in being drawn into the spinning-machine. This machine is simple, goes at a great speed, and turns off a deal of work, but it has not yet been successfully applied to any numbers above forties. There are now many splendid spinning establishments in and around Glasgow. Those of the Lanark Company, on the Clyde, about twenty miles from Glasgow, are the most extensive in one establishment ; but the three establishments of Messrs James Fin- lay and Company of Glasgow, (of which Mr Kirkman Finlay is the head,) at Catrine, Deanston, and Ballindalloch, are the most extensive ones in the whole kingdom, and employ about 2400 hands in spinning, weaving, bleaching, &c. In reviewing the various machines which have been invented for the cotton manufacture, the result terminates in this, — that one man can now spin as much cotton yarn in a given time as 200 could have done sixty years ago. On the 21st of July 18^34, Mr Leonard Horner, one of the Par- liamentary Factory Commissioners, reported, " That in Scotland there are 134 cotton-mills ; that, with the exception of some large establishments at Aberdeen, and one at Stanley, near Perth, the cotton manufacture is almost entirely confined to Glasgow, and the country immediately adjoining, to a distance of about 25 miles radius ; and all these country mills, even including the great work at Stanley, are connected with Glasgow houses, or in the Glasgow trade. In Lanarkshire, (in which Glasgow is situated,) there are 74 cotton factories; in Renfrewshire, 41 ; Dumbarton- shire, 4 ; Buteshire, 2; Argyleshire, 1 ; Perthshire, 1. In these six counties, there are 123 cotton-mills," nearly 100 of which belong to Glasgow. The following statement, also from the Factory Commission Report, will give a pretty good ideJof the amount of cotton trade in Glasgow : " In Lanarkshire, there are 74 cotton, 2 woollen, and 2 silk factories ; 78 steam engines,* namely, 17, each • * Mr (afterwards Sir Richard) Arkwright obtained his patent for spinning cot- ton with rollers in 1769. Soon after this he erected his first mill at Nottingham* which he worked by horse-power. His second mill he erected at Cronift>rd in Derbyshire in 1771, to which he gave motion by water. In 17B5, Messrs Boulton GLASGOW. 149 of 50 horse power and upwards ; 1 1 from 40 to 49 horse power ; 9 from 30 to 39 horse power; 19 from 20 to 29 horse power; 20 from 10 to 19 horse power; 2 under 10 horse power. Wal- ter-wheels, 3, each of 50 horse power and upwards ; 2 under 10 horse power. Total horse power, 2914 ; of which, steam, 2394, water, 520. Total persons employed in factories, 17,949 ; of this number, 13 years and under 18 years, 5047, viz. males, 1345 ; females, 3702 ; under 13 years, 1651, viz. males, 756; females, 895.'* The increase of the cotton trade in Scotland may be seen by the following official statement of cotton-wool taken for the con- sumption of Scotland from 1818 till 1834. Yeart. Bi^e*. Yean. Balet. 181B, 46,565 1827, 72.655 1619, 50,123 1828, 74,037 1820, 51,994 1829, 79,742 1821, 53,002 1830, 79,801 1822, 55.447 1831, 85,929 1823, 54,691 1832, 68,162 1824, 54,708 1833, 86,964 1825, 56,995 1834, 95,603 1826. 56»il7 Calico-printing has been the subject of modern improvement, which may be compared in importance with those in cotton-spin- ning; and most of these improvements have either originated or been matured and perfected in Lancashire. The old method of printing still continued — for certain parts of the work — was by blocks and Watt put up the first steam engine for spinning cotton in Britain, at Papplewick, for Meaars Robison. The first steam engine for spinning cotton in Manchester was put up in 1790, and the first in Glasgow in 1792. This was for Messrs Scott, Stc- ▼cnsm, and Company, opposite the Broomielaw. The following table, taken from Mr Baines* History of the Cotton Manufiwture, cihibits the astonishing increase of the cotton trade in sixty-six years. Grand summary of cotton mills in the United Kingdom. No. of Hortepi tmer. NiKofperaont DUtricU of Factory Inspector §, Mills, Steam. Water. employed, 175,268 Mr Rickards, 934 26^13 6,0934 Mr Homer's^ 152 3,670 2,792 35,623 Mr fiauDder*s, 54 438 1,172 8,128 Mr HoweU'b, 14 1154 1000 232 146 1,806 Total, - 30353 10,203i 7,3434 220325 la England and Wales, 27,049 185»031 In Scotland, 125 3,200 2,480 31,099 In Ireland, - - - 29 604 880 4,695 Total in the United Kingdom, 1154 30^53 10,2031 220^25 In 1785* when Boulton and Watt put up their first steam engine for spinning cot- ton, the quantity of cotton imported into Great Britain, was 18,400,384 lbs. of which there were exported 407,496 lbs. In forty>eight years after, yiz. in 1833, the quan- tity imported was 303,65^837 lbs. ; exported, 17^63,882 lbs* ; quantitjr entered (or eoiMQmption, 293,682,976 lbs. LANARK. L 150 LANARKSHIRE. of sycamore, about ten inches long by five broad, on the surface of which the pattern was cut in relief, in the common method of wood- engraving. On the back of the block was a handle by which the workman held it : the surface was applied to a woollen cloth stretch- ed over a vessel containing the colour, and in contact with that colour, so as to be saturated by it, and was then laid upon the piece of cloth, (there being wire points at the comers of the block to enable the workmen to apply it with exactness,) and struck with an iron mallet. Tims the figure was impressed upon the doth, one colour only being used at once ; and if other colours were re- quired to complete the pattern, it was necessary to repeat the ope- ration with different blocks. In order to produce more delicate pat- terns than could be engraved on wood, copper-plates were intro- duced in the neighbourhood of London, and the cloth was thus printed from flat plates, with the kind of press used in copper-plate printing. Each of these modes was tedious, as no more of the cloth could be printed at once than was covered with the wooden block or copper-plate ; and a single piece of calico, twenty-eight yards in length, required the application of the block 448 times. The grand improvement is the art of cylinder printing, which bears nearly the same relation in point of despatch to block-prints ing by hand as throstle or mule spinning bears to spinning by the one thread wheel. This great invention is said to have been made by a Scotchman of the name of Bell, and it was first successfully applied in Lanca- shire, about the year 1785, at Mosney, near Preston, by the house of Livesay, Hargreaves, Hall, and Company. The chemical department of printing has not been less rich in discoveries than the mechanical. At the head of these stands the grand discovery of the properties of chlorine, and which are of important use in several stages and processes of printing, as well as in whitening the cloth. Whenever, in the course of printing, the calico is to be freed from stain or discoloration, the solution of chloride of lime is used ; and by the aid of this powerful agent a rich chintz, which formerly required many weeks to print in the summer season, when it could be laid on the grass exposed to the air and sun, is now produced without ever going from under the roof of the factory, and almost in as many days. It has been remarked, that cotton fabrics are very rarely dyed of a uniform colour. Sometimes a flower, stripe, or other figure, is printed on a white ground ; and at other times the pattern only GLASGOW. 151 « is white, and the rest of the cloth dyed. The proper use of mor- dants lies at the foundation of the dyer's art. The nature of mor- dants is thus explained by Dr Thomson : '' The term mordant is applied by dyers to certain substances with which the cloth to be dyed must be impregnated, otherwise the colouring matters would not adhere to the cloth, but would be removed by washing. Thus the red colour given to cotton by madder would not be fixed, unless the cloth were previously steep- ed in a solution of a salt alumina. It has been ascertained that the cloth has the property of decomposing the salt of alumina, and of combining with and retaining a portion of alumina. The red co- louring principle of the madder has an affinity for this alumina, and combines with it. The consequence is, that the alumina be- ing firmly retained by the cloth, and the colouring matter by the alumina, the dye becomes fast, or cannot be removed by washing the cloth with water, even by the assistance of soap, though simple water is sufficient to remove the red colouring matter from the cloth, unless the alum mordant (from the Latin word mordeoj to bite,) was applied to these substances by the French writers on dyeing, from a notion entertained by them, that the action of the mordants was mechanical ; that they were of a corrosive or biting nature, and served merely to open pores in the fibres of the cloth, into which the colouring matter might insinuate itself. And. after the inaccuracy of this notion was discovered, and the real use of mor^ daiits ascertained, the term was still continued as sufficiently ap- propriate, or rather, a proper name without any allusion to its ori- ginal signification. The term mordant, however, is not limited to those substances merely which serve, like alumina, to fix the co- lours. It is applied also to certain substances which have the pro- perty of altering the shade of colour, or of brightening the colour as it is called.'' * The art of dyeing the fine red, called Turkey or Adrianople red, on thread or yam, has long been practised in the Levant, and subsequently in Europe. About forty years ago, it was introduced in Glasgow by M. Papillon, a Frenchman, who established a dye- wofk with Mr Geoige Macintosh, and this city has ever since been famous for dyeing Turkey red. The art of giving this colour to cloth was unknown till the year 1810, when it wasfirst practised by M. Daniel Koechlin of Mulhau- sen, in Alsace. The discovery, which has immortalized the name of • Encyclopedia Britannica, 7th edition, article, " Dyeing." 152 LANARKSHIRE. this gentleman in the annals of calico-printing, was made the fol- lowing year. It consists in printing upon Turkey red, or any dyed colour, some powerful acid, and then immersing the cloth in a so- lution of chloride of lime. Neither of these agents singly and alone affects the colour; but those parts which have received the acid, on being plunged in chloride of lime, are speedily deprived of their dye, and made white by the acid of the liberated chlorine. This is one of the most beautiful facts in the chemistry of calico-print- ing- For this process, a patent was obtained in this country by Mr James Thomson of Primrose, near Clitheroe, in the year 1813; and the same gentleman, in 1816, took out a second patent for a very useful and happy modification of the principle of the former one, namely, for combining with the acid some mordant, or metal- lic oxide, capable, after the dyed colour was removed, of having imparted to it some other colour. This laid the foundation of that series of processes, in which the chromic acid and it§ combinations have since been employed with such great success. Progress of the Power-Loom, — The power-loom was introduced into Glasgow in the year 1793, by Mr James Lewis Robertson of Dumblane. It was invented by the Rev. Dr Cartwright of Don- caster, and was patented by him in 1774. About 1789 or 1790, a number of these looms were fitted up in the hulks, to employ the convicts. They were driven in a manner similar to the inkle-loom, of which, indeed, the whole machine was a modification. Mr Ro- bertson having been in London in 1792 or 1793, bought a couple of the looms from the hulks, and brought them to Glasgow, when they were fitted up, and wrought in a cellar in Argyle Street. He removed the driving-bar, and employed a large Newfoundland dog, walking in a drum or cylinder, to drive the looms. He had an in- genious old man, William Whyte, from Denny, to manage the looms ; and, by a son-in-law of this man's, the design of the looms was communicated to a bleaching and calico-printing establishment at Milton, near Dumbarton, in 1794, where about forty looms were fitted up there for weaving calicoes for printing. In 1801, Mr John Monteith of Glasgow got a pair of looms from Milton, and, in the course of two years afterwards, had 200 looms at work in a portion of his spinning establishment at Pollockshaws, near Glas- gow. In 1803, Mr Thomas Johnston of Bradbury, Cheshire, in- vented a very beautiful and useful machine for warping and dres- sing warps; and sometime after, Messrs Radcliffe and Ross of Stock- GLASGOW. 153 port improved the dressing-machine, and obtained a patent for these improvements. This machine they also employed in dres- sing webs to be woven on hand-looms by boys and girls. In 1804, Mr Monteith prevailed upon Mr Archibald Buchanan of Catrine to take a pair of looms from him, urging him to improve the ma- chine. Mr Buchanan worked these looms for a year, with a view to obtain experience on the subject ; and finding the annoyance of dressing the web in the loom great, he set about contriving a dres- sing-niachine. In this machine he used cylindrical brushes, and succeeded at that time pretty well ; but from the obstinacy of the person engaged to work the machine, and his own want of know- ledge in the art of dressing, he was led to abandon it. He then invented a remarkably neat and effective loom, and in 1806 pro- ceeded to fill a large room with them, and again applied himself to contrive a dressing-machine; he abandoned the cylindrical brushes, and adopted parallel moving ones, similar to those of Rad- cliff and Ross ; and after much experiment with various success, and by the exercise of much ingenuity, and perseverance, he suc- ceeded in effecting a complete machine, and rapidly extending his looms, with the necessary dressing-machines. In the year 1807, he had the first complete work in Britain, in which warping, dres- sing, and weaving by power, were uniformly carried on ; and it may be said that from this establishment emanated the power-loom weaving of Britain. When Mr Buchanan first began the power-loom, from seventy to eighty shots or picks per minute were considered as great speed ; but, from improvements since introduced by Mr Buchanan and others, a speed of a hundred and forty shots per minute is now obtained. About this time, Messrs Foster and Corbet of Glasgow, and the Messrs Crums at Thornlie Bank, began to use power-looms. About the same time, Mr Peter Mansland of Stockport was the first to introduce the power-loom into England on a practical scale. In 1808, power-looms were begun at Deanston ; and there, in 1809, tweels, and in 1810, checks were first woven on power- looms. In 1818 or 1819, Mr William Perry of Glasgow began the weaving of figured goods; and sometime since, lappets were woven by the Messrs Reids of Anderston, Glasgow. The Messrs King were the first persons celebrated for weaving strong shirting, and domestics ; and the Messrs Somerville and Sons have recently in- troduced extensively a very superior manufacture of furniture «tripes and checks, and an infinite variety of similar goods for wo- 154 LANARKSHIRE. men's dresses, shirting, &c. at their new and splendid works in Hutchesontown, Glasgow. Mr William Dunn of Duntocher, the most extensive and successful spinner in Scotland, as an individual has upwards of 600 looms, upon which he executes various very beautiful plain fabrics. The power-loom is daily extending into new fields of manufacture, and it is evident that it will ultimately be the only means of weaving, excepting for fabrics of very com- plex patterns. Steam-looms have increased greatly of late years. In August 1831, the Lancefield Spinning Company employed 635 looms ; and Messrs Johnston and Galbraith, James Finlay and Company, and William Dunn, 2405. These looms on an average weave fourteen yards each per day. Allowing each loom to work 300 days in a year, these four companies would throw off 10,101,000 yards of cloth, which, at the average price of 4]^d. per yard, is L. 189,393, 15s. per annum. The power and hand-looms be- longing to Glasgow amount to 47,127, viz. steam-looms, 15,127, hand-looms in the city and suburbs, 18,537 ; in other towns for Glasgow manufacturers, 13,463. The extension of the use of the power-loom has for the last twenty years borne hard upon the poor hand-loom weavers, who have long suffered from low wages with exemplary patience. The evil was at first aggravated by a natural cause. When the weaver found difficulty in making wages to support his family, the only ap- parent remedy was to get looms for his children, girls as well as boys, and to set them to work also. This, when work was to be had, helped the individual's family, but it brought so much more weaving labour into operation in the trade previously overstocked, that the evil was increased, and every succeeding year the prices of weaving became lower. Many attempts have been made by the hand-loom weavers to have their prices regulated by act of Parlia- ment, or Board of Trade ; and in this they have occasionally been aided by some well-meaning men of rank and influence, but, as might have been expected, without the least success. For why fix the wages or prices of the hand-loom weavers, whilst those of the mason, joiner, farm-servant, &c. are left to be adjusted by the con- stantly operating natural causes springing from demand and supply ? If the prices of weaving were fixed, whenever a period of stagna- tion arrived, the manufacturers would either get weavers to do their work at lower prices clandestinely, or they would cease to manufac- ture at all, thereby throwing a great proportion of the weavers com- GLASGOW. 155 pletely idle. Besides, the hand-weavers had a long period of high wages, ayeraging far above the rates paid for labour in other more la- borious and skilful professions. This arose from the rapid extension of their trade ; and now, in its decline, they must be contented with the lower rate of wages, until their superabundant labour is absorbed by other trades in a state of advancement. This process has been slowly going on within the last few years, and the wages of hand- loom labour are now rather advancing. During the rise of hand- loom weaving in the west of Scotland, the high wages and constant excitement applied by rival manufacturers, and their agents, led to much dissipation, especially among the younger men, and the bulk of the class became prone to dissolute habits ; still, however, many well educated, intelligent, and decent men were to be found amongst them ; now the bulk of the class are sober, frugal, intel- ligent men, which shows that high wages neither lead to decency Dor intelligence, — the sure basis of happiness. It has invariably happened in this manufacturing community, that, when any class of operatives obtained for a time wages much above the other classes, they have in general become dissipated, and they are found lifing in more miserable ill-furnished dwellings, than those having the very lowest rates of wages. Various expedients have from time to time been resorted to by several of the trades, with a view to raise or maintain their wages, such as long apprenticeships, heavy fees, and the like ; and of late, trades unions have been much in vogue, many of them having rules and practices surpassing the closest corporations, and outvieing the fiercest tyranny of the dark- est ages ; and it is strange, that, although these unions have in most of the trades been successively overthrown, still new unions urge the hopeless combat. It bespeaks deplorable ignorance in the mass of the operatives, who have so allowed themselves to be led by a few designing and selfish knaves ; and submit to be urged by the violent wrong-head- ed fools of their order, — a class to be found in all communities. That the schoolmaster has been successfully abroad, there can be no doubt ; and that the working-classes are becoming more intel- ligent, every good man must observe with delight ; but they are as yet in the transition state, at the point when a " little learning is a dangerous thing." They are like raw recruits with good wea- pons in their hands, more likely to wound their neighbours, or themselves, than to make a successful assault on the enemy. Be- fore they can be called intelligent, or find themselves truly power- 156 LANARKSHIRE. ful, they must dip deeper into the pure science of morals, economy, and politics, which they can only accomplish by reading less of the base and selfish ravings of a particular description of the periodi- cal press ; and more of those solid works which calmly, deliberate- ly, and honestly, treat of the great principles of human nature, and the essential conventional laws of human society. Great improve- ment has taken place during the last fifty years in the manners, habits, and intelligence of the middle classes, and there is nothing in the moral or physical circumstances of the working-classes to prevent their making a similar progress, and to their attaining as high a point in the scale of intelligence and moral worth. Even now we find many who have attained both, though in the humblest ranks. Amidst their labours they have quite as much time for reading as the generality of men in the middle classes, and it wants but a resolution, a fashion amongst them, to lead to the happy results. It is the duty, as it is the interest, of all masters, and all minis- ters of religion, and of all good men who are worthy the appella- tion, to promote within their own sphere, by kindly, free, and fre- quent discourse, as well as by pecuniary arrangement, the consum- mation and progress of this most desirable object* * The following note is from the history of the cotton manufacture of Great Bri- tain, just published, by Mr Edward Baines Jun. of Leeds, a work distinguished for great talent aud research, — a work which contains more useful information respect- ing the cotton trade than is to be found in any otiier, — a work which should be in the hands of all those who desire a knowledge of that trade which has tended to raise their country so high in the scale of nations. ** The cotton manufacture of England presents a spectacle unparalleled in the annals of industry, whether we regard the suddenness of its growth, the magnitude which it has attained, or the wonderful inventions to which its progres.* is to be ascribed. Within the memory of many now living, those machines have been brought into use which have made so great a revolution in manufactures, as the art of printing effect- ed in literature. Within the same period, the cotton manufacture of this country has sprung up from insignificance, and has attained a greater extent than the manufac- tures of wool and linen combined, though these have existed for centuries,** " Sixty yearssince, our manufacturers consumed little more than three miluon pouxds of raw cotton annually, the annual consumption is now two hundred and eightt MILLION POUND?, In 1750, the county of Lancaster, thechief seat of the trade, had a po. pulation of only 297,400, in 1831, the number of its inhabitants had swelled to ] ,336,854. A similar increase has taken place in Lanarkshire, the principal seat of the manufacture in Scotland. The families supported by this branch of industry are estimated to comprise a million and a-half of individuals ; and the goods produced> not only furnish a large part of the clothing consumed in this kingdom, but supply nearly one-half of the immense export trade of Britain, find their way into all the markets of the world, and are even destroying in the Indian market, the competition of the ancient manufacture of India itself, the native country of the raw materia), and the earliest seat of the art." " The causes of this unexampled extension of manufacturing industry are to be found in a series of splendid inventions and discoveries, by the combined effect of which, a spinner now produces as much yarn in a day, as by the old processes he could have produced in a year, and cloth which formerly required six or eight months to bleach, is now bleached in a few hours.** GLASGOW. 157 Glasgow was the first place in Britain where inkle wares were manufactured. In 1732, Mr Alexander Harvey, at the risk of his life, brought away from Haerlem, two inkle-looms and a work- man, and was thereby enabled to introduce the manufacture of the article into this city. Soon after this, the Dutchman, considering himself as ill-used by his employer, left Glasgow in disgust, and communicated his art to Manchester. The manufacture of green bottles in Glasgow was introduced, and the first bottle-house erected on the site of the present Ja- maica Street Bottle-house, in 1730. It does not appear that the art of turret bell making was practised in Glasgow till 1735. It was not, however till 1813, when Messrs Stephen Miller and Company made the bell for the steeple of the Gorbals church, that large turret bells were made in Glasgow. Since that period they have made a great number, which are equal in quality and tone to any that ever came from Holland. In the steeple at the cross, there are twenty-eight bells, denominated chimes, diminishing from five feet three inches, to one foot six inches in circumference. The greater part of them have this in- scription. ** Tuned by Amiston and Cummin, 28 bells for Glas- gow, 1735." In 1742, Messrs Ingram and Company fitted up a printfield at Pollockshaws. The first delft manufactory in Scotland was begun in Delftfield near the.Broomielaw, in 1748. Mr Laurence Dinwid- die, formerly Provost, and his brother. Governor Dinwiddie, were two of the first partners. The first shoe-shop in Glasgow was opened in 1749 by Mr William Colquhoun; and in 1773, Mr George Macintosh, em- ploying at that time upwards of 300 shoemakers for the home and export trade, had his shoe-shop in King Street Mr Macintosh had also an agent in Edinburgh, where he employed a number of work- men. At the same period the Glasgow tan-work company em- ployed nearly 300 shoemakers, and to these two houses, the whole export of shoes was confined. The haberdashery business was first introduced into Glasgow about 1750, by Mr Andrew Lockhart But although Mr Lock- hart was the first person who commenced the haberdashery busi- ness in this city, it was not till the autumn of 1787 that it was carried on to any considerable extent. At that period, Mr J. Ross of Carlisle, opened a shop in SpreuU's new " land," and gave the haberdashery business a tone which it had never reached before in 158 LANARKSHIRE. this city. Soon afterwards two of his shopmen, under the firm of Grey and Laurie, commenced business with an extensive stock of goods; and the haberdashery business has rapidly increased in this city since that time. Mr John Blair and Mr James Inglis were the first persons who had front shops for the sale of hats in this city. The shops were both opened in 1756, the former in the Salt Market, and the latter in the Bridgegate. The business of silversmith is of considerable standing in Glas- gow. Mr James Glen, who was a fhagistrate in 1 754, succeeded Mr Robert Luke. When the latter first opened a shop, the trade was but little known in the west of Scotland. In 1775, when Mr Robert Gray, of Blairbeth, commenced business, the following persons had silversmiths' shops here : Messrs Milne and Camp- bell, William Napier, David Warnock, Napier and Bain, James M^Ewan, and Adam Graham. In 1775, the assortment of plate was inconsiderable ; but in 1835, there are shops in Glasgow, which would be considered as valuable in Fleet Street, and elegant in Bond Street. It is not easy to ascertain when the first woollen- draper's shop was opened in Glasgow. In 1761, when Mr Patrick Ewing entered into the trade, it was very limited. The Iron Trade. — Although the cotton manufacture has been the staple trade of Glasgow, and neighbourhood for a long period, the iron manufacture in its various branches would appear to be the one which nature points out as likely to furnish the most ad- vantageous employment of the labour and capital of the district, from the inexhaustible stores of the materials for the making of iron with which it abounds. The local situation of Glasgow, too, is peculiarly favourable for the cheap conveyance of the bulky and hea>7 articles of this manufacture to every quarter of the world. The city is about equidistant from the Atlantic and German seas, and not more than twenty-six miles from either, communicating with the one by the river Clyde, navigable by vessels drawing thirteen feet water, and with the other by the Forth and Clyde Canal, navi- gable by vessels also drawing about thirteen feet water. It stands at the western extremity of the district known by the designation of the Basin of the Clyde, and which, stretching eastward for about twen* ty-six miles, and of considerable breadth, is one uninterrupted field of coal, inters[)ersed with bands of rich black ironstone. Into this mineral field the Monkland Canal penetrates twelve miles, having its western extremity at Glasgow, communicating there with the GLASGOW. 159 Forth and Clyde Canal, into which it is introduced. On a paral- lel line with this water conveyance there is the Gamkirk and Air- drie Railway, on a part of which locomotive engines were intro- duced on the 2d July 1831. The Garion-Gill Railway, which is to be connected with the Garnkirk and Airdrie Railway, and with the Monkland Canal, will carry the communication with the mi- neral field eight miles farther, and it is expected that the great coal field at Coltness will soon be opened up. With these ad- vantages for obtaining the materials and sending the manufactured article to market, Glasgow must become the seat of a great iron manufacture. She has already large establishments for the ma- nufacture of steam-engines and machinery, and for making the machines employed in the processes of cotton-spinning, flax-spin- ning, and wool-spinning. In these works every thing belonging to or connected with the mill-wright or engineer departments of the manufacture, is also fabricated. Having these important and valuable portions of the manufacture already established, and with the advantages which the district possesses for carrying on the trade, there is every reason to expect its rapid growth, and its ex- tension to every article of iron manufacture. Neilsan^s Patent Hot-Blast. — An improvement of national im- portance has lately taken place in the making of iron, of which the following is a description. Mr James B. Neilson, engineer in this dty, obtained patents in this country and France, for an improve- ment in the manufacture of iron, which he designated a Hot- Blast. The patentee drew up a description x)f this improvement, of which the following is an abridgement : In 1824, an iron-maker asked Mr Neilson if he thought it pos- sible to purify the air blown into blast furnaces in a manner simi- lar to that in which carburetted hydrogen gas is purified ; and from this conversation Mr Neilson perceived, that he imagined the pre^ senoe of sulphur in the air to be the cause of blast-furnaces work- ing irregularly, and making bad iron in the summer months. Sub- sequently to this conversation, which had in some measure direct- ed his thoughts to the subject of blast-furnaces, he received infor- mation, that one of the Muirkirk iron-furnaces, situated at a con- siderable distance from the engine, did not work so well as the others; which led him to conjecture, that the friction of the air, in passing along the pipe, prevented an equal volume of the air getting to the distant furnace, with that which reached to the one situated close by the engine ; and he at once came to the conclu- non, thai, by heating the air at the distant furnace, he should in- 160 LANARKSHIRE. crease its volume in the ratio of the known law according to which air and gases expand. Thus, if 1000 cubic feet, say at dO'' of Fahrenheit, were pressed by the engine in a given time, and heat- ed to 600° of Fahrenheit, it would then be increased in volume to 2.1044, and so on for every thousand feet that would be blown into the furnace. In prosecuting the experiments which this idea sug- gested, circumstances, however, convinced him, that heating the air introduced for supporting combustion into air-furnaces would materially increase its efficacy in this respect ; and, with the view of putting his suspicions on this point to the test, he instituted the following experiments : To the nozle of a pair of common smith's bellows he attached a cast-iron vessel heated from beneath in the manner of a retort for generating gas, and to this vessel the blow- pipe by which the forge or furnace was blown was also attached. The air from the bellows having thus to pass through the heated vessel above-mentioned, was consequently heated to a high tem- perature before it entered the forge fire, and the result produced in increasing the intensity of the heat in the furnace was far be- yond his expectation, whilst it made apparent the fallacy of the generally received theory, that the coldness of the air of the at- mosphere in the winter months was the cause of the best iron being then produced. But in overthrowing the old theory, he had also established new principles and facts, in the process of iron-making ; and by the advice and assistance of Mr Charles Macintosh of Cross- basket, he applied for, and obtained, a patent, as the reward of his discovery and improvement. Experiments on the large scale to reduce iron ore in a founder's cupola were forthwith commenced at the Clyde Iron Works, belong- ing to Mr Colin Dunlop, M. P. and were completely successful, in consequence of which, the invention of Mr Neilson w^as immediate- ly adopted at the Calder Iron- Works, the property of Mr William Dixon, where the blast, by being made to pass through two retorts, placed on each side of one of the large furnaces, before entering the furnace, effected an instantaneous change, both in the quantity and quality of iron produced ; and a considerable saving of fuel. The whole of the furnaces at Calder and Clyde Iron- Works were m consequence immediately fitted up on the principle of the hot- blast, and its use at these works continues to be attended with the utmost success. It has also been adopted at Wilsontown and Gartsherrie Works in Scotland, and at several works in England and France. The air, at first raised to 250° of Fahrenheit, produced a saving of three-sevenths of fuel in every ton of pig-iron made ; GLASGOW. 161 and the heating apparatus having since been enlarged, so as to in- crease the temperature of the blast to 600° of Fahrenheit, and up- wards, a proportionate saving of fuel is effected, and an immense additional saving is also acquired by the use of raw coal instead of coke, which may now be adopted by thus increasing the heat of the blast, the whole waste incurred in burning the coal into coke being thus also avoided in the process of iron-making. By the use of this invention, with three-sevenths of the fuel which he formerly employed in the cold air process, the iron-maker is now enabled to make one-third more iron of a superior quality. Were the hot- blast generally adopted, the saving to the country in the article of coal would be immense. In Britain about 700,000 tons of iron are made annually, of which 55,500 tons only are produced in Scot- land. On these 55,500 tons his invention would save, in the pro* cess of manufacture, 222,000 tons of coal annually. In England the saving would be in proportion to the strength and quality of the coal, and cannot be computed at less than 1,320,000 tons annual- ly, and taking the price of coals at the low rate of 4s. per ton, a yearly saving of L. 308,400 Sterling would be effected. Nor are the advantages of this invention solely confined to iron-making. By its use, the founder can cast into goods an equal quantity of iron in greatly less time, and with a saving of nearly half the fuel employed in the cold air process ; and the blacksmith can produce in the same time one-third more work, with much less fuel than he formerly required. In all the processes of metallurgical science, it will be found of the utmost importance in reducing the ores to a metallic state. Iron Works in Scotland in June 1835. Erected in or about 1767, Carron Company, o furnaces, 8,000 t on 1786, Clyde, 4 - 12,500 - 1786, Wilsontown, 1 . 3,000 - 1790, Muirkirk, 2 * 4,000 - 1790, Cleland, 1 . 2,500 . 1790, Devon, 3 . 7,000 - 1605^ Calder, 4 , 12,000 . 1805, SbotU, 1 . 8,000 - 1825, Monkland, - 3 . 8,000 - 1628» Gartsherrie, 3 . 9,000 . 1634, Dundy van, 2 29" • 6,000 - 75,000 1824,qa«Dtityofi; ron made in Scotland at this date, Increase in 11 years, 55,500 19,500 * Exclusive of the above furnaces, there were in preparation in June 1835, six ad- ditioDal, vb. three at Gartsherrie ; one at MonkUnd ; one at Calder ; and one at Dun- dyvan. Tbeac six fiunaces will make 13,000 tons of iron annually. 162 LANARKSHIRE. These works are all in the neighbourhood of Glasgow excepting five, and none of them arq thirty miles distant from that city* Pre* viously to the use of Neilson*s hot-blast, 6000 tons of iron were made at Clyde Iron- Works in a year. In the formation of each ton of iron, eight tons of coal, and fifteen cwt of limestone were required. In 1833, when the hot-))last was applied, the same steam-engine made 12,500 tons of iron, each ton requiring only three tons of coal, and eight cwt. of limestone. The whole of the above iron-works are using the hot-blast in all their furnaces, ex- cepting the Carron Company, who have only yet taken out a license for one of their furnaces. The license is at the rate of Is. per ton. The best coal for making iron at the above works does not ave- rage above 4s. per ton. Supply of Coals in Glasgow. — In 1831, Dr Cleland ascertained from coal-masters and authentic documents, that the supply of coals came from thirty-seven coal pits ; that the quantity brought to Glasgow was 561,049 tons, and of that quantity 124,000 were ex- ported, thereby leaving 437,049 tons for the use of families, and public works, in the city and suburbs. The additional consump- tion since the above statement was made, may be fairly estimated at ten per cent, on the home consumption, and five per cent, on the ex- port, which makes the quantity brought to Glasgow in 1835 amount to 610,953 tons. The following is the average prices of coals de- livered in quantities in Glasgow, during a period of eight years. In 1821, - - 86. 4d. to 9s. 4d. per ton. 1822, - - 7s. lid. to 8s. lid. 1823, - - 78. 6d. to 8s. 6d. 1824, - - 7s. lid. to 8s. lid. 1825, - - lis. Id. to 12s. Id. 1826, - - 9s. 7d. to 10s. 7d. 1827, - - 6s. 8d. to 7s. 8d. 1828, - - 5s. lOd. to 6s. lOd. There has been no variation in the price of coals from 1828 to 1835. The best hard splint is laid down at the steam-boat quay at 6s. 3d. per ton. In 1835, Cannel coal from Lesmahagow, for the formation of gas, is laid down at the gas works at 16s. per ton ; ditto from pits in the neighbourhood of Glasgow, 10s. 6d. per ton ; average on the quantity used, 14s. per ton. The manufacture of flint-glass or crystal was introduced here by Messrs Cookson and Company of Newcastle in 1777, and is now carried on to a very considerable extent. Soon after that period, a number of chemical works were erected in the neighbourhood of this city. The Chamber of Commerce and Manufactures was in- OLASGOW. 163 §titii(ed here in ITSd, under the auspices of Mr Patrick Colqu- houn, at that time an eminent merchant in Glasgow. Pullicate hankerchiefs were begun to be made about the year 1785. • The business of a regular distiller is but of recent date in Scot- land. Mr WiUiam Menzies of Gorbals, Glasgow, was the first person in the west of Scotland who had a licensed still. He open- ed his distillery in Kirk Street in 1786, and his license was the fourth in Scotland ; the houses of Messrs Stein, Haig, and another, having alone preceded him. At that period, the duties amounted to about one penny per gallon, and the best malt spirit was sold at ds. per gallon* In 1800, Messrs Tennant, Knox, and Company, established a chemical work at St Rollox ; now carried on under the firm of Charles Tennant and Company, for the manufacture of sulphuric acid, chloride of lime, soda, and soap. This manufactory, the most extensive of any of the kind in Europe, covers ten acres of ground, and within its walls there are buildings which cover 27,340 square yards of ground. In the premises, there are upwards of 100 furnaces, retorts, or fire-places. In one apartment there are platina vessels to the value of L. 7000. In this great concern, upwards of 600 tons of coal are consumed weekly. Messrs Henry Monteith, Bogle, and Company, established a manu£u:tory for bandana handkerchiefs in 1802, now carried on under the firm of Henry Monteith and Company. This respect- able firm also carry on the business of cotton-spinning and calico- printing. Their establishment at Blantyre is most extensive; while their splendid works at Barrowfield are probably unequalled in the kingdom. With the exception of an attempt on the conti**- nent, which proved unsuccessful, the manufacture of bandanas has been chiefly confined to this city. The manufacture of silk is but in its infancy here; but the throwing and other departments of the trade bid fair for prosperity. GaS'Light Company. — A company for lighting Glasgow with gas was incorporated by act of Parliament in 1817, with a capi- tal of L. 40,000, which has been increased from time to time to Im 150,000. The first street lamp was lighted with gas on the 5th September 18ia The works are on a large scale, and, including subsidiary esta- blishments in different parts of the town, occupy an area of 14,831 square yards. The principal establishment now forms a square. 164 LANARKSHIRE. of which one side is occupied by retorts, condensers, and other ap* paratus ; and round the other three are ranged sheds, under which cannel coals are stored, to preserve them from moisture. These sheds are calculated to contain 6000 tons ; and to show at any time how much coal is on hand, they are divided into compart- ments, each containing a certain known quantity. The company have at present 152 retorts, each capable of making 5000 cubic feet of gas in twenty-four hours. Of these, 105 are required in winter, and 30 in summer. The gas holders are of a very large size, and are 8 in number, viz. 4 at the works, and 4 in different parts of the town. By this arrangement, the pressure of gas is equalised in all portions of the city and suburbs. Cast-iron pipes to convey the gas are laid on both sides of the streets, under the foot pavements, so as not to interfere with the water pipes, and extend to more than 110 miles in length. In generating gas for the supply of Glasgow, upwards of 9000 tons of coals are an- nually consumed. The coke which remains after extracting gas from cannel coal, and the tar deposited on the cooling of the gas, are used for heating the retorts, and are found to be very economi- cal fuel. Nor is the tar the only one of the liquid products that is turned to profitable account The ammoniacal water is sold to be used in making cudbear dye, and the naphtha, in dissolving ca- outchouc, for manufacturing water-proof cloth. The solution of lime, after having been employed for purifying the gas, is allowed to stand until the heavier part is precipitated ; this is then collected and sold for manure, and the liquor which remains (none of the gas-work refuse is allowed to run into the common sewers of the city) is evaporated under the great bars of the retort furnace, thereby increasing the draught, and, consequently, the intensity of the fire. As at other establishments, the gas is purified with lime ; but in addition to this process, it is made to pass through a solution of sulphate of iron, by which it is very much improved in purity. After being purified, it passes through a metre of a very large size, made by Mr Crosley of London, the patentee. Here the gas manufactured is measured, and by a beautiful contrivance, called a tell-tale, which acts by the combined motions of the me- tre on a common clock, the quantity passing through each hour of the day or night is registered ; and the extent of any irregula- rity in the workmen, as well as the time at which it happened, is at once detected. The company have been peculiarly fortunate GLASGOW. 165 in procuring the services of Mr iJames B. Neilson, engineer, pa- tentee of the iron hot^blast. To the scientific attainments of this distinguished manager, the company are chiefly indebted for their uncommon success, and for the most perfect and beautiful esta- blishment of the kind in the kingdom. In May 1835, the directors of the Gas Company drew up, printed, and circulated a short history of their affairs, of which the following is an abstract. In the act of 1825, the company became bound that the dividends should not exceed 10 per cent, on their stock per annum. From the commencement of the undertaking, they supplied the city and suburbs of Glasgow with gas, at prices below what were charged in any other city in the empire. In 1818, the period at which the lighting of the city commen- ced, the charge for a single jet to eight o'clock was 12s. per annum. Since that period, the company have been enabled to make four successive reductions of the rates. In' 1819, they reduced the fates L. 1800 per annum; in 1822, L. 1200; in 1830, L. 2300; and in 1833, L. 1600. The charge for a single jet lighted to eight o'clock, is now reduced to 6s. 6d. per annum. The aggregate amount of the rates paid by the consumers in 1835 is L. 30,000, and the number of payers about 10,000. Chemical Works. — The process for dyeing Turkey or Adria- oople red, was first introduced into Britain by Mr George Mac- intosh, at a dye-house which he established at Glasgow. The im- mense importance since attained by this branch of commerce in Britain owes its origin entirely to this circumstance. Mr George Macintosh also commenced the manufacture of the dye stuff called cudbear, in Glasgow. This is a modification of the Florentine manufacture of orcella, or orseille, and is still car- ried on, on a large scale, by Mr Charles Macintosh, the son of the first named gentleman. In the year 1786, Mr Charles Macintosh introduced from Hol- land, the manufacture of sugar of lead, saccharum satumiy or ace- tate of lead. This article had previously been obtained by im- portation from Holland ; but in the course of a very short time, this state of matters was reversed, by Mr Macintosh exporting ihe ar- ticle in considerable quantities to Rotterdam, the place from which a knowledge of the manufacture was first obtained. Independent of its use in medicine, sugar of lead is employed on the large scale in calico-printing, in the formation of the mordant called red co- lour Uquor; in which process a double chemical decomposition is LANARK. M 166 LANARKSHIRK. effected by the addition of the acetate of lead, to an aqueous solu- tion of alum (sulphate of alumina.) Sulphate of lead is thus pre- cipitated, whilst acetate of alumina, constituting the mordant, re- mains in solution. About 1789, Mr Macintosh modified this pro- cess by the substitution of acetate of lime, instead of acetate of lead. A similar decomposition, affording acetate of alumina in solution, in this instance takes place. By this process the selling price of the red colour liquor became lowered from three shillings per gal- lon, to sixpence, and under, per gallon. This process was never patented, and as it speedily became appropriated by others, the inventor derived scarcely any advantage from it. Many thousand pounds Sterling were annually expended on malt and barley, in the manufacture of saccharum satumi^ at Glasgow, between the year 1786, the period of the first introduction of the manufacture, and 1 820, when pyroligneous acid prepared from wood was substituted for the malt vinegar, previously employed in this process. In 1793, Mr Charles Macintosh introduced at Pollockshaws, numerous and important improvements in the art of dyeing fancy muslins, and in 1795, he established the first alum-work erected in Scotland, at Hurlet, in Renfrewshire, about six miles from Glasgow. Two other alum-works at Campsie, and in the parish of Baldernock in Stirlingshire, were shortly after established through his interven- tion, which works now yield an annual supply of 2000 tons of alum. The decomposed aluminous schistus found in the coal wastes is the material employed at these places in the manufacture of alum, — the price of which has been reduced from L. 25 per ton, at which it was when these works were established, to Lr 12 and under per ton. Remarks upon the influence exerted by this cause, on the various branches of dyeing, calico-printing, tanning, and paper- making, — in all of which the use of alum is indispensable, — would be superfluous. In 1799, Mr Charles Macintosh pre'pared for the first time chloride of lime, in the dry form, which has since been denominat- ed bleaching salt, or bleaching powder. This process he patented, and its manufacture, on a large scale, was carried on by Mr Mac<^ intosh and Mr Charles Tennant of St RoUox for many years. Mr Tennant had previously obtained a patent for the preparation of chloride of lime in the liquid state, denominated bleaching liquor, of which he was the inventor. The immense chemical works at St RoUox, since conducted on a scale of such magnitude and per- fection by Mr Tennant, originated in this partnership. In 1808, Mr Charles Macintosh established at the alum-works at GLASGOW. 167 Campsie, the manufacture of Prussian blue, triple-prussiate of po- tass, and iron or ferro-prussiate of potash. Soon afterwards he ap- plied, for the first time, for the purpose of dyeing woollen, silk, and cotton, the salt termed triple-prussiate of potash, or hydro-ferro- cjanic acid. This salt had only previously been known as a che- mical reagent, prepared from Prussian blue, and selling at from 56. to 6s. per ounce. Its use as a dye stuff, in substitution for in- digo, is now universal over Europe ; the price being reduced to about 2d. per ounce, or 2s. 6d. per pound. This substance is pro- cured from the horns and hoofs of animals, as also the waste parings and clippings of horns and whalebone ; and for these substances, and pot and pearl ashes, also employed in the process, a great an- nual outlay takes place. The process for rendering fabrics of silk, woollen, cotton, or linen, waterproof, by means of a layer of caoutchouc, or Indian rubber, previously rendered liquid by solution in naphtha, being in- troduced between two separate pieces of cloth, which are subse- quently thus made to adhere perfectly and permanently together by pressure, is also the invention of Mr Charles Macintosh. He for some time carried on the manufactory of these articles at Glas- gow; but some time ago the business was transferred to Manchester. Mr Macintosh obtained a patent for this process. Previous to the intro- duction of this manufacture, the importation of caoutchouc into Bri- tain was merely trifling, — its use being limited almost entirely to stationary purposes ; now it is imported in large quantities ; and, in order to supply the demand for it, it is understood, that the pro- prietors of several West India estates are planting for cultivation, the different species of Irtropha elastica and Urceola elastica^ from which it is procured in the state of a milky juice, which coagulates on exposure to the atmosphere. The process for converting iron into steel, by submitting it, in- closed in close vessels, to the action of carburetted hydrogen gas, is also the invention of Mr Charles Macintosh. This is also a patent process. In 1823, the Royal Society of London marked their sense of Mr Charles Macintosh's services in the cause of science, by elect- ing him a Fellow. The calico-printing works of Messrs James and John Kibble and Company of Glasgow, on the banks of the Leven, are allowed to be the most complete of any in the kingdom. Cashmere Yam. — In 1830, the weaving of Cashmere shawls in this country had become so important a branch of trade, as to in- 168 LANARKSHIRE. duce the Board of Trustees for the Encouragement of Arts and Ma- nufactures in Scotland to offer a premium of L. 300 Sterling to the first person who should establish the spinning of Cashmere wool upon the French principle in this country. Up to that time the French had exclusively enjoyed the advantages of that trade ; and all Cashmere yarns used in this country in the manufacture of shawls and other fabrics had to be imported from France. The offer of this handsome premium, together with the other advantages which the' carrying on of the trade held out, induced Captain Charles Stuart Cochrane, of the Royal Navy, to attempt, whilst in Paris, to find out the secret of this manufacture, which, after many difficul- ties and much delay, he at last accomplished ; and, in 1831, he took out patents for the introduction of this kind of spinning to the three kingdoms. In the autumn of that year, he prevailed on Messrs Henry Houldsworth and Sons, of Glasgow, to purchase his patents, and they accordingly commenced the spinning of Cashmere yarn. After many difficulties, they succeeded, in 1832, in making better yam than the French, and in the following year received from the Board of Trustees the L. 300 Sterling as the premium due for the establishing of the spinning of Cashmere yarn in this country. Since then, the manufacture has gone on but slowly, though gra- dually increasing in extent, and the day !s not far distant when it may be hoped that the beauty of the goods made from Cashmere yarn will be duly appreciated by our ladies. One thing is grati- fying, that, notwithstanding the cheapness of labour in France, and the long experience the French have had in this manufacture, we are quite capable at this moment of successfully competing with them in the market, although the French yarns can be admitted free of duty. Establishment of Merino Yam Spinning in Scotland. — At the same time that the late Captain C. S. Cochrane was engaged in Paris in finding out the manufacture of Cashmere yarn, his atten- tion was attracted by the superiority of French merino dresses over those made in this country ; and on inquiry he found that the peculiar manner in which the French spun the merino yarn was the prin- cipal cause of this difference. Captain Cochrane, accordingly, got all the information he could possibly obtain respecting this manu- facture, and in 1333 established in Glasgow this peculiar mode of spinning merino yarn on the French principle. The Board of Trus- tees offered a premium of L. 300 Sterling to the introducer and establisher of this manufacture; which premium Captain Cochrane accordingly received in 1834, — his merino yarn being pronounced GLASGOW. 169 equal, if not superior, to the best French yarns. After this satis- factory result, the business was extended to meet the demand of the trade ; but, unfortunately for the spirited introducer, death cut him short before his plans were fully brought to a profitable result The business is in the meantime carried on by Messrs Hen- ly Houldsworth adlf Sons, for the benefit of Captain Cochrane's partner; and from the soft and beautiful goods which can be made froni this yarn, almost rivalling the Cashmere itself, there seems little doubt but that in a short time, when it becomes well known, the merinos of this country will successfully compete with those of the French. Timber Trcuie. — The merchants of Glasgow send numerous ships to the East and West Indies, to America, and to the continent of Eu- rope ; but there is one firm which merits particular attention. Messrs Pollock, Gilmour and Company, who are chiefly engaged in the North American timber trade, have eight difierent establishments that ship annually upwards of six millions cubic feet of timber ; to cut and to collect which, and to prepare it for shipment, requires upwards of Fifteen thousand men, and six hundred horses AND oxen in constant employment ; and for the accommodation of their trade, they are owners of twenty-one large ships, the register tonnage of which is twelve thousand and five tons, navigated by five hundred and two seamen, carrying each trip upwards of twenty thousand tons of timber at 40 cubic feet per ton. All of which ships make two, and several of them three voyages annually. It may be truly said that this establishment is unequalled in Europe. Messrs James and William Campbell and Company were the first in this city to occupy as a warehouse for the retail of soft goods, the upper flats of a tenement, instead of shops on the ground or street floor, and although the practice of having retail places of business on the second floor has since become pretty general in Glasgow, it is still a peculiarity of this city. The Messrs Camp- bells, too, were the first who successfully resisted the practice, which had previously obtained very generally in Glasgow, in their line of business, of what in Scotch phrase, is termed " prigging/' or de- viating from the first price asked for goods sold in retaiL They commenced business in 1817, in the Trades Land, head of Salt- market Street, from whence they removed in 1823, to premises built by themselves, and which they still occupy in Candleriggs Street. This establbbment, now embracing the wholesale as well as the 170 LANARKSHIRE. retail business, the largest of the kind in the King's dominions out of London, contains 30,003 square feet of flooring. In these premises the public are supplied with nearly every description of goods of woollen, linen, cotton, and silk manufacture, and the ar- rangements are such that purchasers of the smallest quantities for private use are equally attended to and accorifinodated with those who make the most extensive purchases, for either home or foreign consumpt. Upwards of eighty persons are employed in the sale- departments of these warehouses, and the following is a note of the respective amounts of six years sales, which not only shows the progressive increase of the Messrs Campbells' business, but exhibits a fair criterion of the rapid increase, and commercial im- provement of the city of Glasgow. In 1818, . L. 41,022 (5 4 In 1830, . L. 250,899 9 6 1824, . 106,284- 2 1 1832, . 312,207 5 8 1827, . 183,385 6 10 1834, . 423,021 4 7 Besides these gross sales the company manufacture to the value of from L. 70,000 to L. 80,000 annually of the goods thus dis- posed of, giving employment from this department to nearly 2000 people. It may likewise be remarked, that, although se- veral London houses turn a greater sum annually, in consequence of dealing largely in the more valuable descriptions of silk goods, it is understood that the Messrs Campbell serve as great a num- ber of customers as any of those highly respectable metropolitan establishments. The Tea Trade. — The Camden was the first vessel unconnect- ed with the East India Company which brought a cargo of tea direct from Canton to Britain. She was consigned by China mer- chants to Mr William Mathieson of Glasgow, and her full cargo of Bohea, Congou, Cape Congou, Campio, and Souchong, was sold in the Royal Exchange sale-room of this city on the 14th of No- vember 1834. A number of Ix)ndon and Edinburgh merchants purchased at the sale. The whole was sold at high prices. V. — Civic Economy. Literature. — From the commercial enterprise which engages the time and attention of its inhabitants, this city cannot boast of a literary character. There are many individuals, however, of cultivated minds and extensive attainments, some of whom have formed themselves into societies for the promotion of literature and science. About the middle of the last century a literary so- ciety was established, consisting chiefly of the professors and cler- gymen of the city and neighbourhood, and reckoned amongst its GLASGOW. 171 distiDguished members, Doctors Adam Smith, Trail, and Reid, and Mr John Millar, the celebrated Professor of Law. A litera- ry and commercial society was formed about the beginniiig of llie present century, and is composed of a number of frendemen who meet for the discussion of literary and ecNnmercial topics. Dur- ing the twenty-seven years in which records have been kept, up- wards of 200 essays have been read by the society. University, — The University of Glasgow is a corporate body, consisting of a Chancellor, Rector, Dean, Principal, with Profes- sors and Students. In 1451, Nicolas V., a pope distinguished by his talents and erudition, and particularly by his munificent patronage of Grecian literature, after having composed the great western schism, which for more than half a century had distracted the states of Christen- dom, was pleased to issue a Papal Edict, or Bull, establishing a shidium generale^ or university in the city of Glasgow ; the situa- tion of which is described in the narrative as being, by the salubri- ty of the climate, and the abundance of all the necessaries of life, peculiarly adapted for such an institution. The instrument bears that James II. King of Scotland had applied to the See of Rome for this grant ; for although an independent sovereign might claim the power of erecting universities within his own dominions, he could not confer on the licentiates and doctors, who derived their qualifications from such seminaries, the privilege of acting as teachers and regents in all the seats of general study througho ut the bounds of the Catholic church, without any examination or approbation, in addition to that which they received when they ob- tained their academical degrees. This faculty was bestowed by apostolical authority on the graduates of the University of Glasgow, along with all other liberties, immunities, and honours, enjoyed by the masters, doctors, and students, in the University of Bologna. The University at first had received no endowments, and was for years possessed of no property except the University purse, into which were put some small perquisites on the conferring of degrees, and the patronage of two or three small chaplainaries. At first the University had no buildings of its own. It held its meetings in the chapter-house of the Blackfriars, or in the cathedral. But these defects were in some measure supplied by the liberality of James first Lord Hamilton, an ancestor of the noble house of Hamilton, who, in the year 1459, gave to the Principal, and other Regents of the College of Arts, for their use and accommodation, 172 LANARKSHIRE. a tenement with its pertinents, in the High Street of Glasgow, to the north of the Blackfriars, together with four acres of land in the Dow-hill. In the deed, the noble donor required the Princi- pal and Regents, on their first admission, to declare on oath, that they would commemorate James Lord Hamilton, and Lady Eu- phemia, his spouse, the Countess of Douglas, as the founders of the college. Amongst other benefactors of the college, distin- guished by their donations, chiefly for the support of poor students, were Ann Duchess of Hamilton, Robina Countess of Forfar, William Earl of Dundonnell, the Duke of Chandos, the Duke of Montrose, Leighton, Archbishop of Glasgow, Boulter, Bishop of Armagh, Mr Snell, Dr Williams, Dr Walton, Mr Zachary Boyd, and Dr William Hunter. The Reformation produced great disorder in the University, its members being clergymen of the Catholic persuasion, and its chief support being derived from the church. In 1577, James VI. pre- scribed particular rules with regard to the college, and the forma- tion of its government, and made a considerable addition to its funds. The charter by which the King made these regulations, and gave that property, still continues to be the magna charta of the college, and is known by the name of Nova Erectio, The business of the University is transacted in three distinct meetings, viz. those of the Senate, the Comitia, and the Faculty. The meeting of senate consists of the Rector, the Dean, the members of Faculty, and the other Professors. The Rector pre- sides in this meeting, except when affairs are managed, for which the Dean is competent. Meetings of the senate are held for the election and admission of the Chancellor and Dean of Faculty, for the admission of the Vice- Chancellor and Vice- Rector, for electing a representative to the General Assembly, for conferring degrees, and for the management of the libraries, and other mat- ters belonging to the University. The constituent members of the comitia are, the Rector, the Dean, the Principal, the Profes- sors, and the matriculated students of the University.* The Rec- • The royal visitation of the University, in 1717 and 1718, deprived the Students of the right of voting in the election of the Rector, and appointed the election to be made by the plurality of votes in a University meeting, composed of the Chancellor, Dean, and Principal, (the office of Rector being vacant,) and all the Professors and Regents ; the said members being restricted to a man of probity and judgment, of known affection to the government in Church and State, who is not a minister of the gospel, nor bears any other office in the University, It is believed that the re- gulations of this visitation originated in some feelings and jealousies connected with the political circumstances of the country, and had reference to the wish of persons attached to the interests of the Stuart family, being raised to situations of importance and influence. GLASGOW. 173 tor or Vice- Rector presides in this meeting. Meetings of the c(h mitia are held for the election and admission of the Rector, for hearing public disputations in any of the faculties, previously to the conferring of degrees, for hearing the inaugural discourses of the Principal and Professors, previously to their admission to their respective offices, and for promulgating the laws of the University, and other acts of the University and College courts. The meeting of (acuity, or college meeting, consists of the Principal, the Pro- fessors of Divinity, Church History, Oriental Languages, Natural Fhflosophy, Moral Philosophy, Mathematics, Logic, Greek, Hu- manity, Civil Law, Medicine, Anatomy, and Practical Astronomy. The Principal presides in this meeting, and has a casting but not t deliberative vote. The members of faculty have the administra- tion of the whole revenue and property of the College, consisting of heritage, feus, teinds, and bequests, with the exception of a few particular bequests, in which the Rector and other officers of the University are specially named. They have likewise the right of exercising the patronage of eight professorships, vested in the Col- lege. They present a minister to the parish of Govan, and have the gift of various bursaries. In the exercise, however, of one of their privileges, viz. the election of professors, the Rector and Dean of Faculty have a vote. The officer of highest dignity in the University is the Chancellor^ who is elected by the members of senate. He is the head of the University, and by himself or deputy has the sole privilege of con- ferring academical degrees upon persons found qualified by the Senatus Academicus. The office of Chancellor is held during life. Thei2ector is annually elected by the Dean, the Principal, the Pro- fessors, and the matriculated students. The electors are divided, according to their respective birth-places, into four nations, as be- fore-mentioned. As the majority of the members of each nation constitutes one vote, in case of an equality, the Rector going out of office has the casting vote ; and in his absence, the Rector imme- diately preceding. The election is always held on the 15th of No- Tember, except when it falls upon Sunday, and then the election is held on the following day, and the same person is generally re- The royal visitation of 1727, prescribed a number of regulations which have been in force erer since. JtUer alia, the right of electing a Rector was declared to be in •U the matriculated Members, Moderators or Masters, and students. Some altera- tioos were made on the distribution of the supposts into nations. The Natio Glot- tku nv€ Clydtadaliae and the Natio dicta Rothsay, continued as originally settled. But hito the Natio Laudoniana sive T/tevidalia: were introduced, all matriculated Biembers firom England, and the British Colonics ; and the Natio Albanite live Trans- Mthiana, vas to include all foreigners. 174 LANARKSHIRE. elected for a second year. It is the duty of the Rector to preserve the rights and privileges of the University, to convoke those meet- ings in which he presides, and with his assessors, whom he himself appoints, to exercise that academical jurisdiction amongst the stu- dents themselves, or between the students and citizens, which is bestowed upon most of the universities of Europe. The Dean of Faculties is elected by the senate. This office is held for two years, and by virtue of it, he is entitled to give directions with re- gard to the course of study, and to judge together with the Bectoi^ Principal, and Professors, of the qualiBcations of those who desire to be created Masters of Arts, Doctors of Divinity, &c The foun- dation of the office of Principal, almost coeval with that of the Uni- versity, was confirmed by James VI. in 1577. It is in the appoint- ment of the King. The Principal has the ordinary superintendence of the deportment of all members of the University, and is Prima" rius Professor of Divinity. The Professors of the University of Glasgow may be distributed according to the departments of know- ledge to which they are respectively assigned, into four distinct fa- culties ; those of arts, theology, law, and medicine. The Faculty of Arts comprehends the Professors of Latin or Hu- manity, Greek, Logic, Ethics, Natural Philosophy, Mathematics, Practical Astronomy, and Natural History. To this faculty maybe added the Professors of Mathematics, Astronomy, and Natural His- tory. The faculty of Theology includes, besides the Principal, who, in right of his office, is first Professor of Divinity, three other Pro- fessorships, those of Divinity, Church History, and Oriental Lan- guages. The faculty of Law consists of a single Professorship, that of Civil Law. The faculty of Medicine comprehends the Professorships of Anatomy, Medicine, Materia Medica, Surgery, Midwifery, Che- mistry, and Botany. The Professors of Greek, Logic, Ethics, and Natural Philosophy, whose chairs were the earliest endowed in thfe University, are denominated Regents, and enjoy in right of their re- gency certain trifling privileges beyond their brother professors. The Regius Professors are those whose chairs have been recently founded, endowed, and nominated by the Crown, and they are mem- bers of Senate only, not of the Faculty of the college, viz. natural his- tory, surgery, midwifery, chemistry, botany, and materia medica.* • Office-Bearen and Professor t in 1835. Inducted Inducted /. Faculty of Arts, 1781. Chancellor, Duke of Montrose. 1831. Humanity, W. M. Ramsay, M. A. 1834. Lord Rector, Lord Stanley. 1821. Greek, Sir D. K. Sandford,D.C.L. 1834. DeanofFaculties, Sir A. Campbell. 1827. Logic, Robert Buchanan, M. A. 1823. Principal, D. Macfarlan, D. D. 1797. Moral Philosophy, J. Mylne, M. A. GLASGOW. 175 The University Library was founded in the fifteenth century. It contains an extensive and valuable collection of books, amongst which are many beautiful editions of the classics. It is always in- creasing by donations of copies of every new work published in dus country, as well as by books purchased by the fees received at matriculation, assisted by fees received from graduates, and by aD annual payment from all students, who are entitled to the use of the library under certain limitations. A small botanic garden adjoining the college was prepared for the use of the lecturer in botany in 1753; but, having from various causes, become unfit for its purposes, a very valuable botanical gar- den, consisting of eight acres, was formed in the neighbourhood of the city, by the citizens of Glasgow. The University subscribed L2000 towards its erection, for the privilege of their Professor of Botany lecturinginthe hall in the garden, and Government has sub- sequently given a similar sum in support of it This garden, which las opened in the spring of 1818, is, for the variety of rare plants from almost every part of the world, not exceeded by any botanical garden in the kingdom. The founder of the Hunterian Museum was the celebrated Wil- liam Hunter, M. D. who was born in the parish of East Kilbride, in the neighbourhood of Glasgow, in 1710. By his will in 1781, he be- queathed to the Principal and Professors of the College, his splen- did collection of books, coins, paintings, anatomical preparations, &c and appropriated L. 8000 for the erection of a building for their reception. The collection is valued at L. 65,000, viz. medals, L 30,000, books, L. 15,000, pictures, L. 10,000, miscellaneous, L 10,000. The collection has been considerably increased of late years. The public are admitted every lawful day, on payment of Is. There are twenty-seven bursaries connected with the College, ▼arying from L. 5 to L. 40. They are held from four to six years. Besides these, there are two very valuable exhibitions. In the year Mueted Inducted III. Faculty of Laxv. 1803. Natural Philosophy, William 1801. Civil Law, R. Davidson, Advocate. Meiklebam, LL. D. IV. Faculty of Mcd'icinr, 1831. Mathematics, J. ITiomsonjLL.D. 1790. Anatomy, James Jeffray, M. D. 1803. Practical Astronomy, James Cou- 1827. Theory and Practice of Medicine, per, D.D. Charles Badham, M. D. 1829.» Natural History, William Cou- 1815. • Surgery, John Burns, M. D. per, M. D. 1834.» Midwifery, W. Cumin, M. D. //. Faadty of Theology. 18ia • Chemistry, T. Thomson, M. D. 1814. DiTinity, S. MacGill, I). D. 1821. • Botany, Wm. Jackson Hooker, 1807. Church History, William Mac- LL.U. Turk, D. D. 1 83 1.» Materia Medica, In. Couper,M.D. 1831. Oricnul Languages, W. Fleming, 1828. Diseases of the Eye, William Mac- D, I). kenzie, M. D. I>ecturer. • Those with an asterisk are Regius Professors. 176 LANARKSHIRE. 1688, Mr John Snell, with a view to support Episcopacy in Scot- land, devised to trustees a considerable estate near Leamington, in Warwickshire, for educating Scotch students at Baliol College, Oxford. By the rise in the value of land, and the improvements which have from time to time been made on that estate, the fund now affords about L. 130 per annum to each of ten exhibitioners. Another foundation, by John Warner, Bishop of Rochester, of L.20 per annum, to each of four Scotch students of the same college, during their residence at Oxford, is generally given to the Glasgow exhibitioners ; so that four of them have a stipend of L. 150 per an- num. The exhibitions are tenable for ten years, but vacated by mar- riage, or on receiving preferment of a certain amount. The right of nomination belongs to the Principal and Professors of the faculty. Candidates, to be eligible to Snell's exhibitions, must first be na- tives of Scotland, which the master of Baliol requires to be proved by the production of an extract from the parish register of births; secondly, they must have attended as public students at least two sessions at the University of Glasgow, or one session there, and two at some other Scottish university. Warner's exhibitions are in the gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and Bishop of Roches- ter, who usually nominate on the recommendation of the master of Baliol College. Amongst the distinguished persons of several pro- fessions who have been educated on Mr Snell's foundation, may be mentioned Dr John Douglas, Bishop of Salisbury; Dr Adam Smith; and Dr Matthew Baillie. This University has had from its origin men of the highest talent and literary eminence among its professors and office-bearers. The names of Melville, Baillie, Leishman, Burnet, Simpson, Hutchi- son, Black, CuUen, Adam Smith, Reid, Miller, and Richardson, are conspicuous; and the names of Henry Dundas, Edmund Burke, Sir James Mackintosh, and other distinguished individuals, are to be found in the list of rectors. Education. — The attention which has been paid to education in Scotland for centuries past has been acknowledged all over Europe. Amidst all the tumult and violence of civil contention, and at a time when the very existence of the Presbyterian church was at stake, the subject of education and of schools was never overlooked. By act 43 Geo. HI. cap. 54, the salaries of parochial school- masters, whose schools are not entirely confined in royal burghs, are to be fixed, from and after the 11 th September 1803, at a sum of from 300 to 400 merks Scots, bv the minister, and the heritors whose lands in the parish amount to L. 100 Scots. In twenty-five 4 GLASGOW. 177 years after the above period, or such after period as the salary shall be fixed, these heritors and minister are to modify a new sa- lary, according to the average price of oatmeal, to be ascertained by the Exchequer, of the value of from one and a-half to two chal- ders, and so on from twenty-five years to twenty-five years ; and when there is not a proper school-house, a house for the school- master, and a garden for him, containing at least one-fourth of a Scotch acre, the heritors of the parish must provide these.* Grammar'SchooL — This seminary is of remote antiquity, but, like some similar institutions of long standing, little is known of its eariy history. There was a grammar-school at Glasgow in the early part of the fourteenth century. It depended immediately on the cathedral church, and the chancellor of the diocese had not only the appointment of the masters, but also the superintendence of whatever related to education in the city. The grammar-school eoDtinued to be a distinct establishment after the erection of the University, and considerable care appears to have been taken to supply it with good teachers. In 1494, Mr Martin Wan, Chan- cellor of the Metropolitan Church of Glasgow, brought a complaint before Archbishop Blackadder against one Dwne, a priest of the diocese, for teaching scholars in grammar, and children in inferior branches, by himself apart, openly and publicly in the said city, without the allowance, and in opposition to the will of the Chan- cellor. The bishop having heard parties, and examined witnesses, decided, with the advice of his chapter, and of the rector and clerks of the University, in favour of the Chancellor. As far back as the sixteenth century, the situation of the master of the grammar-school was highly respectable ; he was to be found among the non-reffen^ fei, nominated to elect the Rector, and to examine the graduates. On the 28th of October 1595, the Presbytery directed the Regents in the college " to try the Irish scholars in the grammar-school, tuching the heads of religion." At that period the school met at five o'clock in the morning. Mr John Blackburn, who was mas- ter of the grammar-school, and Lord Rector of the University in 1592, 1593, resigned his mastership in 1615, on being appointed minister of the Barony Church. • The celebrated Dr South has, with much ability, enforced the great utility to be derired from attention to schoolmasters. *• There is no profession,'* he observes, "which has, or can have, a greater influence on the public. An able and well prin- fipkd schoolmaster is one of the most meritorious subjects in any prince's dominions; ■Mi sehoolinasters are the great depositaries and trustees of the peace of the nation, ^^*^S i^ growing hopes and fears in their hands. Nay, schoolmasters have a more pon eifu l influence upon the spirits of men than preachers themselves; for they Ittfc to deal with younger and tender minds, and consequently have the advantage of the first and deepest impression upon them." 178 LANARKSHIRE. The records of the town-council have been searched in vain for the plan or system by which the school was conducted prior to the year 1707. Since that period, it has undergone various changes in the management and system of education. Sometimes the school was under the control of a rector, and at other times the office was laid aside. Sometimes the course consisted of five, and at others of only four years. In 1830, the office of rector was abolished, and each of the four masters had the entire charge of finishing his own scholars during the four years. In 1834, this seminary underwent a very material alteration. From being a grammar-school, it may now be considered as an academy. Two of the masterships for Latin and Greek have been suppressed; and, in lieu of these, teachers of English grammar, elocution, French, Italian, German, writing, geography, and mathematics, have been introduced, and the name of the seminary has been changed to that of the High School. The school is under the im- mediate management of a committee of the town-council, aided by the advice and assistance of the reverend clergy of the city, and learned professors of the University. Schools. — In a large community like that of Glasgow, where schools are ever shifting, it is difficult to ascertain the exact num- ber; but the following abstract from Dr Cleland's Annals of Glas- gow, lately published, will give the reader an idea of the extent of education in this city. In that work, the names of 144 teachers are published, from which it appears that, exclusively of the Uni- versity and 13 institutions where youth were educated, there were 144 schools of evert/ description ; that, including the public insti- tutions, there were 16,799scholars,of whom6516 were taught gratis in the charity or free schools. These schools were all in the dis- trict of the royalty, containing about 75,000 souls. It appears from the same work, that Sunday schools were established in 1786; that there were 106 schools, 158 teachers, and 4668 scholars, viz. 2235 boys, and 2433 girls, besides 3 adult schools. An infant school so- ciety was instituted in 1826, and in 1827, the Glasgow Model School, the first in Scotland on the training system, was opened here under the auspices of Mr David Stow. In 1835, there are 6 in* fant schools, viz. the Model School in Salt Market, a school in Drygate, Chalmers' Street, Marlborough Street, John Street, and Cowcaddens ; and two school-houses are about to be built in Gor- bals, and one in Anderston. As it would be tedious to quote the rate of wages in the various schools, it may be sufficient to say, that they are from two to fifteen shillings per quarter. GLASGOW. 179 The Lord Advocate having directed the parochial clergy of Scotland to furnish him with a detailed account of the schools in th^ respective parishes, a valuable statistical document may be ex- pected in the course of the session of Parliament 1836. This, in eonnection with the periodical Reports of the Committee of the Ge- neral Assembly for increasing the means of Education and Religious Instoction in Scotland, will exhibit the amount of education in a Tery satisfactory manner. The Committee's Report for 1835 gives a detailed account of five of the Glasgow parishes, viz. the College, Tron, St David's, St John's, and St James's. The Report is ac- companied by a table showing the amount of population, number of parochial, endowed. Sabbath, and week day evening schools, Dumber of scholars, salaries of teachers, number of persons un- abk to read and write, &c Andersonian University, — This seminary, founded by Mr John Anderson, Professor of Natural Philosophy in the University of' Glasgow, on the 7th of May 1795, and endowed by him with a valuable philosophical apparatus, museum, and library, was incor- porated by a seal of cause from the magistrates and council of this city, on the 9th of June 1 796. The university is subject to the inspection of the Lord Provost, and other official persons, as ordi- nary visitors, and is placed under the immediate superintendence of eighty-one trustees, who are elected by ballot, and remain in office for life, unless disqualified by non-attendance. The trustees consist of nine classes of citizens, viz. tradesmen, agriculturists, artists, manufacturers, physicians and surgeons, lawyers, divines, philosophers, and, lastly, kinsmen or namesakes. The trustees elect annually by ballot nine of their number as managers, to whom the principal affairs of the university are intrusted during the year. The managers elect by ballot from their number the president,* secretary, and treasurer. Although the views of the venerable and celebrated founder embraced a complete circle of liberal edu- cation, adapted to the improved state of society, it was found con- Tenient at first to limit the plan to natural philosophy, chemistry, mathematics, and geography. • Presidents tince the origin of the University 179& Peter Wright, M. D. 1810. Joshua Heywood. 1797. Alexander Oswald. 1811. James Cleland, LL. D. 179a WilUam M'Neil. 1812. John Hamilton. 1801. James Monteath, M. D. 1814. John More. 1802L John Geddes. 1817. James Ewing, LL. D. 1805. Alexander Oswald. 1820. John Geddes. 1806. John Semple. 1821. Walter Ferguson. 1807. William Anderson, M. D. 1825. James A. Anderson. 1809. Robert Austin. 1831. James Smith, F. R. S. 180 LANARKSHIRE. The business of the university commenced on the 21st of Sep- tember 1796 by Dr Garnet's reading in the Trades Hall to persons of both sexes popular and scientific lectures on natural philosophy and chemistry, illustrated by experiments. Soon after this period, the managers rented, and then purchased, extensive premises in John Street. Dr Garnet having been appointed Professor of Ex- perimental Philosophy and Chemistry in the Royal Institution of London, which had been formed on the model of this primary one^ resigned his professorship, and, on the 18th of October 1799, Dr George Birkbeck was appointed as his successor. In addition to what had been formerly taught, he introduced a familiar system of instruction, which he demonstrated by experiments free of expense. About 500 operatives attended this class, the greater part of whom were recommended by Dr William Anderson and Dr James Cle- land. This mode of tuition, by which philosophical subjects are explained in ordinary language, divested of technicalities beyond the comprehension of the student, is continued with great suc- cess, at a small expense, and has been productive of the happiest effects to a valuable class of society. Dr Birkbeck resigned his professorship on the 5th of August 1804, and returned to London. Dr Andrew Ure was appointed his successor on the 21st of the following month, and, during a period of twenty-five years, dis- charged the duties of his oflSce with great ability, when he also went to London to reside. The affairs of the university becoming more and more prosper- ous, the trustees purchased from the city the grammar-school buildings fronting George Street, and having made considerable additions and alterations, the premises now contain numerous halls for the classes and for the museum, which has of late become very rich in its several departments. The university buildings were opened in November 1828, since which time the classes have been well attended, and soirees have been introduced with the hap- piest effect. The professions in 1835, are first, literature, philoso- phy and popular science : Classes, natural philosophy, logic, ethics, rhetoric, mathematics, natural history, modern languages, oriental languages, drawing %iid painting in oil and water colours, and po- pular lectures on the veterinary art ; and secondly. Medicine : clas- ses, surgery, chemistry, medical jurisprudence, theory of medicinoi anatomy, physiology, and midwifery. Mechanics Institution for the Promotion of the Arts and Sciences. — This society was formed in 1823, by the mechanics of Glasgow, with the view of disseminating mechanical and scientific knowledge GLASGOW. 181 ■ among their fellow operatives, particularly those branches more immediately connected with their daily occupations. Lectures were given on natural philosophy and chemistry, when a fee of diree shillings was paid by each student, which was afterwards in- emsed to ten shillings. From the formation of the society to the present time, the number of students has averaged yearly about 500. Free admission is annually given to the lectures on chemis- try and mechanics, and also to the librar}', — to poor apprentices, one being admitted for every twenty tickets sold. In this manner 290 have been admitted since the commencement of the institu? tion. In 1831, the society removed to large premises built for tiiem in Hanover Street. A colossal statue of James Watt is phced on the pediment of the building, by a subscription of one dulling from each student in successive years. In the building there are commodious apartments for the numerous models and ap- puatus; and for the library, which now consists of 3128 volumes on science and general literature. In the session of 1835, there are three professors, who give lectures on natural philosophy, chemistry, popular anatomy, physiology, and phrenology. Fee for the course, ^t shillings. At the close of the session of 1834-35, Mr Leadbetter, the zealous and philosophic president of the society, stated, that the students were from about forty different trades, — a proof of the utility of the institution.* The entry book of the library shows an increased avidity for reading. During the six months of the session 7778 isues were made to 399 readers, being an average of about 20 books to each reader. The British Association, from its perambulatory character, has given a new impulse to the study of science. " I expect to see ere long," said the indefatigable and talented President, " this body of men the concentration of all the scientific knowledge of Great Britain, encamped and set- ting up their crucibles in the city which first opened the portals of science to the mechanic and artisan, and which first invited the fair sex to a participation of the common benefits of a phi- losophical education." Exclusive of the above institution, there • Honorary Patron, — George Birkbeck, M. D. F. H. S. London. Vice- Patron J — Charles Tennant. Presidcutt—J ohn Leadbetter. Honorary Councillors : James Ewing, LL. D. James Hutchison. Henry Houkbworth. James Lumsden. James Wataon. Robert Napier. Archibald M^LelUm. James Clcland, LL.D. Haarice Pollock. William Dunn. WO&un Gilmour. Colin Dunlop, M. P. LANARK. N 182 LANARKSHIRE. are similar ones in the suburbs, with about 1200 students. In the Calton 450 students attended the natural philosophy class, of whom nine-tenths were operatives ; 200 females attended the astronomy and geography classes, seven-tenths of whom were mill girh. From the foregoing facts let not the friends of elementary educa- tion undervalue the acquirements of science, nor the friends of science the benefits of a moral and religious education. It is true that the one does not embrace scientific instruction, and the other does not profess to impart moral and religious knowledge, but both contribute to improve and exalt the human character, and are there- fore essential elements in a national education. Dr Chalmers has observed, that Christianity has every thing to hope and nothing to fear from the advancement of science, and he afibrds in his own character a striking instance of the benefits of scientific knowledge, ennobling the intellect, and adorning the Christian character. Newspapers. — The first newspaper published in the west of Scot- land was the Glasgow Courant, which appeared in the year 1715. It was published three times a-week, consisted of twelve pages in small quarto, and was sold for three-halfpence, or " one penny to regular customers." The second number contained a letter from Provost Aird, Colonel of the regiment of Glasgow Volunteers, de- tailing his views in regard to the Duke of Argyll's ultimate success at Sheriffmuir. The name of the paper was soon changed to that of the West Country Intelligence, which only survived a few years. From 1715 till the present time, there have been twenty-one at- tempts to establish newspapers in this city, and out of that num- ber, eleven still survive. The names of the papers, the dates of their commencement, and the periods of publication, are as fol- lows : — The Glasgow Courapt in 1715; the Journal in 1729; the Chronicle in 1775; the Mercury in 1779; the Advertiser in 1783 ; but in 1804 its name was changed to that of the Herald ; the Courier in 1791 ; the Clyde Commercial Advertiser in 1805; the Caledonia in 1807 ; but in the same year it merged in the Western Star ; the Sentinel in 1809; a second Chronicle in 181 1 ; the Scotsman in 1812; the Packet in 1813; a second Sentinel ia 1821; the Free Press in 1823; the Scots Times in 1825; the Evening Post in 1827 ; the Trades' Advocate in 1829 ; the Libera- tor in 1831 ; the Scottish Guardian and the Argus in 1832; and the Weekly Reporter in 1834. The eleven surviving papers are, the Journal, published once a-week ; the Herald, twice ; the Cou- rier, three times; the Chronicle, three times; the Free Press, twice ; the Scots Times, twice ; the Evening Post, once ; the Libe- GLASGOW. 183 ntoTj once; the Scottish Guardian, twice; the Argus, twice; and the Weekly Reporter, once ; so that in Glasgow there are twenty newspapers published weekly. It would be invidious to state the circulation of each paper, even if it could be accurately obtained. It 15, however, known, that the circulation of the Herald on each publishing day for some years past has exceeded 1800, and that during the quarter from the 1st of March to the 1st of Ji^ne 1834, its advertisements amounted to 3291. Libraries^ Sfc, — The first circulating library in the west of Scot- land was established in Glasgow in 1753, by Mr John Smith Se- nior, who lent out books at the rate of one-halfpenny per volume. There are now many circulating as well as public and private li- braries in Glasgow. Of the public libraries, exclusively of those belonging to the University, to Anderson's University, and to other literary bodies, the more valuable are Stirling's, which was institut- ed in 1791, the Glasgow in 1804, and the Robertsonian in 1814. Of late years a number of book societies have been established in Glasgow. They are conducted on a plan similar to that of cir- culating libraries, with this difference, that the books belong to the readers themselves, who are chiefly of the working-classes. The periodical book publishing trade, which, till about the year 1796, was scarcely known in Scotland, is carried on in Glasgow to an extent surpassing that of any other town in this part of the king- dom. By a late Parliamentary report, it appeared that in Scot- land there were 414 book-hawkers, technically termed ^^ canvas- sers" and ^^ deliverers," who, in seven years, collected L. 44160 per annum in sixpences and shillings ; and five-sixteenths of the whole belonged to Glasgow. The Maitland Club, which was established in this city a few years ago, is similar to the Bannatyne Club of Edinburgh, or the Roxburgh Club of London, by the reprinting of valuable and scarce old books for private use, or printing for the first time curious and rare manuscripts illustrative of the history, literature, or antiqui- ties of Scotland. The club takes its name from Sir Richard Maitland of Lethington, an Officer of State during the minority of James VI. ; and who like Bannatyne, did much service to Scottish literature, by compiling nearly all the poetry of the nation then in existence. During the last thirty years several magazines and other periodical works have been published here, but none of them have succeeded. The Church of Scotland Magazine bids fair for permanency. Pif^r. — The proper management of the poor is every where 184 LANARKSHIRE. important, but in a great manufacturing community, subject to numerous vicissitudes, unknown to small towns and rural districts, it is peculiarly so. The poor in nine of the ten parishes of the city are maintained by an assessment on the inhabitants, aided by certain donations, and the collections or offerings at the church doors ; whilst the poor of the other parish are maintained on a se- parate plan, to be afterwards mentioned, and the poor of the two suburban parishes of Barony and Gorbals by a tax on rental, aid- ed by donations and oflFerings. Soon after Dr Chalmers'* admis- sion to the Tron Church on the 21st of July 1815, he discover- ed that a great improvement might be made in the mode of main- taining the poor, and particularly that assessment might be dis- pensed with. Having explained his views to the magistrates, he was translated to the newly erected church and parish of St John's, that he might be the better able to develope his plan. Accordingly, on the 18th of August 1819, the town-council unanimously resolved that Dr Chalmers should have a ^^ separate, independent, and ex- clusive management and distribution of the funds which may be raised by voluntary or charitable collections at the doors of St John's Church for the relief of the poor resident in said parish." The scheme was continued by Dr Patrick Macfarlan, the clergy- man who succeeded Dr Chalmers, and is still continued by Dr Thomas Brown, the present incumbent ; and after a trial of six- teen years, the energies of what is emphatically called the o^^- cy have not decreased. There is no intricacy in the scheme. The members of the congregation are liberal in their voluntary of- ferings at the church doors. The parish is divided into small dis- tricts; numerous elders and deacons, to whom districts are assigned, visit their respective poor, by which means imposition is easily detect- ed, and the distribution of the fund to the legitimate poor more surely and easily accomplished. It redounds much to the credit of the parochial scheme, that St John's parish not only supports its poor without assessment, but the parishioners are assessed as other citizens for the maintenance of the poor of the other nine pa- rishes. We have preferred taking the following abstract from Dr Cle- land's Statistical work in 1831, to any statement which could be made for 1835, as we have the advantage of the Government enu- • This distinguished divine, now a Corresponding Member of the Royal Institute of France, received his degree of D. D. from the University of Glasgow, and of LL. D, from the University of Oxford,— literary honours which we believe never before met in the person of a Fretby terian clergyman. GLASGOW. 185 meratioD for the former year, to enable our readers to draw re- sults. Number of paupers in the city and suburbs on the 31st of December 1830, with the expense of maintaining them during that year. Nwmier Expense qf ofpaupert. mainUnimce. Sc MuDgo's, .... 179 L.396 12 9 Sc Mary's, 149 348 7 7 Blickfriars, .... 176 362 11 Outer High, 148 336 6 14 SC GCOTgGSf .... 126 354 2 Si Andrew's, 88 206 17 4 Sc Enocfa'Sy .... 137 264 6 2 St James*, 108 228 19 21 St Darid's, . j . . 71 161 16 8 St John's, .... 70 241 19 1 In-door and out^loor paupers in hospital, 1067 6773 1 7 Total in city, .... 2300 In Barony paridi. . 2237 7486 4 4 In Oorbals, .... 480 1132 18 04 Total in city and suburbs, . . 6006 L. 17281 18 O^ The population in the city and suburbs being 202,426, and the number of paupers 5006, there is one pauper for every 40)^0 Per- sons. The populatioQ of the ten parishes in the city being 89,847, and the number of paupers 2309, there is one pauper for every 383VQ persons. The number of paupers in the city and suburbs being5006,andtheamountoftheirmaintenaneeL. 17,281, 18s. O^d. gives to each pauper L. 3, 9s. O^^gd. The number of paupers in St John's parish being 70, and the amount of their maintenance L.241, 19s. Id. gives to each pauper L.3» 8b. lOj^^d. Abstract of the Expenditure of the Benevolent and Charitable In» aitutians ofGlasgowy exclusive of Widows? Funds^ Benefit Societies^ Charity Schools, and Maintenance of Paupers* The affairs of the following societies are conducted at the Re- ligious and Charitable Institution Rooms : DuUof Subecriptione ^nmatiom. for 1834. 1796, Glasgow Missionary Society, ... L. 736 1804» do. Bible Society, . 676 1809, Nile and George Street Chapels* Sabbath School Society, 67 1811, Aged Women's Society, . . 110 1811, Glasgow Auxiliary Gaelic School Society, 466 1812, do Old Men's Friend Society, . . . . 323 Auxiliary Hihemian Society, . . . 200 Auxiliary Bible Society, . . 166 Society in Aid of the Serainpore Missions, . 693 Young Men*s Society for the Support of Gadic Schools, 118 Auxiliary Morayian Society, 622 Society for Promoting Christianity among the Jews, (AuxiKary to the London Society, formed in 1810,) 166 1890, da Auxfliary Soottkh Missionary Society, . 266 1813, do. 1816^ do. 1816, do. 1817, do. 18I8» do. 1819^ do. 186 LANARKSHIRE. 1820, Glasgow Deaf and Dumb Institution, . • L. 215 1821, do. Religious and Church Institution House Reading Room, 85 1821, do. Auxiliary Religious Tract and Book Society for Ireland, 66 1822, do. Seaman's Friend Society, ... 87 1823, do. Auxiliary London Missionary Society, (originated in 1815, re>organized in 1823,) .... 1823, do. Auxiliary Irish Evangelical Society, ] 823, do. Religious Tract Society, .... 1825, do. North American Colonial Society, 1825, Orphan's Institution, ..... 1826, Glasgow Continental Society, .... 1826, do. City Mission, ..... 1827, 7 130 175 485 15 10 85 50 15 260 L. 30,039 7 8 The following list was prepared a few years ago by Dr Cleland for a public purpose. Although the expenditure of some of the institutions may now vary a little, the aggregate amount may be taken as pretty near the truth. 1460, St Nicholas Hospital, Fourteen incorporations (at various dates,) 1599, Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons, 1605, Merchant's House, 1605, Trades House, 1639, Hutchison's Hospital, 1725, Buchanan's Society, . . 1727, Highland Society, 1729, Mitchell's Mortification, (Mortmain,) 1741, Tennant's Mortification, 1778, Wilson's Charity, 1778, Coulter's Mortification, 1789, Grocers' Society, 1790, Miller's ( harity, 1790, Humane Society, 1790, Society of the Sons of the Clergy, 1790, Brown's Society, 1790, Watson's Society, 1791, Glasgow Galloway Brotherly Society, 1794, Royal Infirmary,* L.30 2777 3 1 35 e 920 12 2 782 11 8 2580 2 11 418 15 2 775 7 100 46 2 8 214 1 7 60 95 8 4 264 4 2 49 10 9 228 12 24 7 49 10 3593 4 7 • The number of patients in the hospitals and asylums on the 25th March 1831 was 709, viz. in the Royal Infirmary, 304 ; of whom males, 143; females, 161 ; un- der 30 years of age, 141?. In the Lunatic Asylum there were 264, viz. insane, 212; of whom, males, 99; females, 1 13; under 30 years, 46 ; idiots, 1 1 ; of whom, males, 8 ; females, 3 ; under 30 years, 5 ; silly in mind, 41 ; of whom, males, 9; females, 32 ; under 30 years, 6. In the Lock Hospital there were females, 27 ; under 30 years, 23. In the Magdalene Asylum there were 83, all under 30 years. In the GLASGOW. 187 1794, TMfiben* Society, L.21 1794, Dumfries-ahire fiooety, .... 10 J79A, Facuhy of Procurators, 74 J797* B«lge of Merit Highland Society, 12 1805, Ix)ck Hospital, .... 451 1 1809, Stirlingshire Society, .... 20 2 18] 0, Lunatic Asylum, .... 443 5 1811, M< Alpine's Mortification, 70 1812, Benevolent Society for Clothing the Poor, 340 13 10 1615, Magdalene Asylum, .... 485 7 9 Not aeeertained. Graham's Society, 1G4 G 1 Dot Ayrshire Society, .... 41 8 AbstncC amount of charities partaking of a benevolent character. L. 15,191 3 8 Bo. of a religious character. 30,039 7 8 Amount of religious and charitable funds, . L. 45,230 1 1 4 Donations for charitable education under the patronage of the magistrates and ministers of Glasgow, exclusive of the above, 1825, Mr M'Lachlan, Calcutta, . . . . L. 8281 18 1831, Mr James Murdoch, Glasgow, 4417 18 1833, Dt Bell, London, ..... 9f9l I3 Cootingciii on the life of Mrs Maxwell, aged upwards of 70 years, 2000 6 4 L. 24,491 9 10 H*Lacb]an*a includes the Elders. Presbytery ofGlasgotCy and Synod of Glasgow arid Ayr, — The Presbytery formerly consisted of ten ministers of the city, and those of the twelve surrounding parishes, viz. Barony of Glasgow, Gorbals, Rutherglen, Cumbernauld, Carmunnock, Cadder, Campsie, Govan, Kirkintilloch, Kilsyth, Cathcart, and Eaglesham, with their elders ; but as the thirteen ministers of the chapels of ease have now been raised to the status of parish ministers, the clerical members of Presbytery are increased to thirty-five. The Presbytery of Glas- gow in 1835, for the first time, sent six ministers and three elders to the General Assembly. The synod consists of eight presbyteries, viz. Glasgow, Ayr, Ir- vine, Paisley, Hamilton, Lanark, Dumbarton, and the new Pres- bytery of Greenock. The following is a view of the progressive stipends of nine of the ministers of Glasgow. Till 1788, the stipends were paid in Scots money, viz. in merks converted into pounds Sterling. Id 1638, . L. 56 16 lU 1642, 66 Id 4 154d» 78 16 8 1674, 90 172% 111 2 2| 1762, 138 17 9^ In 1788, - L. 165 1796, 200 1801, - 250 1808, 300 1814, 400 1830, 425 Deaf and Dumb Institution there were 37 ; males, 22 ; females, 15; under 20 years, 36. The blind persons in the Asylum and Town's Uospiul were 40 ; males, 26 ; females, 14 ; under 30 years, 27* Eye Infirmary, 4 ; males, 2 ; females, 2 ; under 30, ^ 188 LANARKSHIRE. The Stipend of the minister of the Cathedral Church (St Mungo or Inner High) is paid in victual from teind (converted into mo- ney,)* viz. 12^ chalders of meal; 12^ chalders of barley ; L. 30 in money ; and a glebe, which has been feued under the authority of Parliament. This stipend, when grain is at a moderate price, amounts to about L. 500. It is very remarkable, that the stipend of the Barony parish, with the largest population in Scotland, was only 2000 merks Scots, (L. Ill, 2s. 2§d.) till 22d February 1815, when the Court of Teinds raised it to 22 chalders of victual, and L. 30 in money. The glebe was afterwards authorized to be feued. When the Gorbals parish was erected on 20th February 1771, the stipend was L. 90. It has since been increased to L. 300. Church Accommodation. — In 1831, the population of the city and suburbs, as before stated, was 202,426, and the total sittings in the various places of worship in the city and suburbs 73,425 : viz. in the Established Church, 30,928 ; Seceders, Dissenters, Episco- palians, and Roman Catholics, 42,497. This is in the proportion * His Migesty's Justices of the Peace for the Count j of Lanark, taking into their consideration that, by act 4th and 5th William IV. cap. 49, all local measures are repealed ; and that in Scotland, on 1st January 1835, the fiar prices of all grain in every county, for ascertaining the value of ministers' stipends, teinds, &c. shall be struck by the imperial quarter, it therefore becomes necessary to know how many im* perial bushels and parts of a bushel are equal to a Linlithgow wheat chalder, and an oat and barley chalder ; and having full confidence in the science and skill of Dr Wil- liam Meiklebam, Professor of Natural Philosophy in the University of Glasgow ; Dr Thomas Thomson, Professor of Chemistry in said University ; and Or James Cle- land of Glasgow, Fellow of the Statistical Society of London, the meeting appointed the said gentlemen to ascertain and report on oath, on the oomparatiTe contents of the measures aforesaid. After mature investigation, commensurate to the importance of the remit, they re- ported inter alku Table for Whrat, Pfas, and Table for Oats, Barley, Bkex, Beans. and Malt. Chald, Imp. Bush. Bush. . Gaa. Chald, Imp. Bush. Btuh. ( GaiL 1=^ 6a88G*2656 or 63 7 1-10 1= 93.198784 or 93 1 a^ 2=127.7725312 or 127 6 1-5 2=186.397568 or 186 3 1-6 3=191.6587968 or 191 5 1-4 3=279.596352 or 279 4 a4 4=255.5450624 or 255 4 1-3 4=372.795136 or 372 6 1-5 5=319.4313280 or 319 3 9-20 5=465.993920 or 465 7 i9L-ao 6=38adl75936 or 383 2 i-2 6=559.192704 or 559 1 1-2 y— 447.2038592 or 447 1 2-3 7=652.391488 or 652 3 l-« 8=511.0901248 or 511 3-4 8=745.590272 or 745 4 3-4 9«574.9763904 or 574 7 8-10 9=838.789056 or 838 6 1-3 10b=63a8626560 4>r 638 6 9-10 10=931.987840 or 931 7 9-10 At a meeting of his Majesty's Justices of the Peace fur the County of Lanark, held at Hamilton on the 24th October 1 834, his Grace the Lord Lieutenant suggested* and the meeting unanimously conferred on Dr Cleland, one of their number, the honorary office of Inspector- General of weights and measures for the county, with control over the statutory inspectors. The counties of Renfrew and Dumbarton, and the burghs of Calton, Hamilton, Lanark, Paisley, Greenock, Dumbarton, and Kirkintilloch, had their imperial standards of weights and measures adjusted and cer- tified by the Director- GeneraL GLASGOW. 189 of ooe sitting to 2.75-lOOth persons, or 20,291 sittings less than the amount required by law. On 1st July 1835, the House of Commons presented a humble address to his Majesty, who has been graciously pleased to appoint a commission *^ to inquire into the opportunities of religious worship and means of religious instruction, and the pastoral superintendence afforded to the people of Scotland, and how far these are of avail for the religious and moral improvement of the poor and of the woridng classes, and with this view to obtain information respect- ing their stated attendance at places of worship, and their actual connection with any religious denomination, to inquire what funds are now or ma,^ hereafter be available for the purpose of the Esta- blished Church of Scotland, and to report from time to time, in order that such remedies may be applied to any existing evils as Parliament may think fit" When the time occupied, and the expense incurred in preparing for the church is considered, no one will presume to say that the aspirant for the holy ministry is actuated by mercenary motives ; it is, therefore, the duty of those who benefit by their labours to pro- vide for their temporal wants in a suitable manner, so that their ^liritual instructor may be enabled to devote his whole energies to the duties of his sacred office. As the livings of two of the clei^* men of this city arise from teinds, the following account may not be uninteresting: In the case of the minister of Prestonkirk against the heritors of that parish in 1808^ the Lord President Hope, then Lord Jus- tice-Clerk, in giving his opinion, said, *^ When we look back to the history of past ages, we find that the tithes of Scotland were at no time the property of the heritors. From the very earliest period which we can trace our history, the tithes were the property of the state, reserved by the state, and by the state appropriated, or at least applied, as a fund for the purpose of maintaining the clergy. Let us consider the situation of an heritor in the light of a pur- chaser of land. Did any such pay one farthing as the price of the tithes ? Certainly not - They always are, and always have been, deducted from the rental in calculating the price of the estate. What is taken from the tithes for the maintenance of the clergy is not, therefore, taken out of the podcet of the heritors ; for, merely as a proprietor of land, he can have no .right to the tithes either by purchase or inheritance. On the point of law^ I never was clearer on any question in my life. In point of authority, I look 190 LANARKSHIRE. to Lord Stair, as the highest with which I am acquainted. On the subject of tithes he says, * They were at all times the property of the Church or state.* He adds, that, * into whatever hands they pass, teinds carry along with them, as a burthen affecting them, competent stipends for the ministers who are, or who shall be, elected ;' in other words, that, into whatever hands teinds may come, they are inherently necessarily burthened with the mainte- nance of the clergy." The Lord Justice- Clerk then said, " Where has there been since the world began such a body of clergy in point of virtue, learning, piety, and a faithful discharge of their parochial duties ? The clergy of Scotland, I am proud to say, have never been equalled by the clergy of any nation upon earth. Much reason would the landholders of this country have to be contented and satisfied, though the burden of maintaining such a body of clergy had been ten times greater than it is. Still more reason have the heritors of Scotland to be satisfied with their lot, when they compare their situation with that of the landed proprietors of any other country." Lord Craig " would not go over the ground occupied by his learned brother, but would say, of all men in any Christian country in Europe, the proprietors of land in Scotland have least reason to complain of the state of the teinds. By the law of Scotland, they possess advantages with regard to teinds which no other country in Christendom enjoys. " As the Church of Christ includes an order of men who devote their time and study to the discharge of the duties of the pastoral office, and who have been expressly educated for that purpose, they are entitled to a competent maintenance from those for whose good they labour ; and the provision for the clergy of the Church of Scotland, though inferior to that of other ecclesiastical establishments, is, on the whole, respectable. The allowance to the clergy out of the tithes of the parish was at first but scanty, but their stipends have been gradually augmented. Indeed, if, while other orders of men are getting forward, the stipends of the ministers of the Established Church had remained stationary, the accumulation of national wealth, by relatively sinking those who minister at the altar into abject poverty, would have rendered them contemptible, and the Church would have been supplied solely from the lowest orders of the people. It is a branch of political wisdom, therefore, to save the Established clergy from this degra- dation, which would undermine their usefulness, and might render GLASGOW. 191 them but little anxious to preserve the welfare and stability of the state."* It has been said, that clergymen in the discharge of the sacred du- ties of their office belong to no particular class of society, mixing, as they necessarily do, with the high, the low, and the middle grades. In Glasgow the clergymen have always been highly respectable, and at no period more so than at present. The Established churches in Glasgow are all uncoUegiate. The ministers prepare and preach two sermons every Sunday, and in rotation preach on Thursdays in St Mary's Church, and Hope Street and St Mary's Churches on Sunday evenings. They preach occasional charity and mission- ary sermons. They examine the youth of their congregations in class meetings, and give partial ministerial visitations in the families of their parishioners. To visit the whole in the present overgrown state of the parishes would be next to impossible. They visit the sick, and assist the kirk-session in the proper distribution of the poors' funds ; — they superintend the schools in their parishes, — and, in obedience to the wishes of the pious founders of some of the benevolent institutions of the city, they share the management with the magistrates ; and their attendance on funerals, kirk-sessions, presbyteries, synods, and general assemblies, occupies a consider- able portion of their time. The bare recital of the above must convince every one of the laborious duties of a city parochial clergy- man ; and as to pecuniary remuneration, it is barely sufficient for pre- sent purposes, leaving little or no provision in case of a widowed family. The clergymen of Glasgow have long moved in the first rank of society. Their dwelling-houses and their domestic expenses are necessarily on a scale suited to their rank. In addition to the Go- vernment and local taxes, they are subjected to clerical ones, and they readily contribute to private and public charities ; and when it is considered that their sons usually receive a university educa- tion, and their daughters that which is suited to their station, the wonder is, how a city clergyman can bring up his family on his sti- pend, not to speak of his making any after-provision for them. In 1831 there were 58 clergymen in the city and suburbs who receiv- ed stipend, varying from L. 150 to L. 500 ; the average to each was within a small fraction of L. 268. If the maintenance of the whole clergy was chargeable to each individual in the community, it would only amount to Is. 5|d. in the year, — a sum small, indeed, when compared with the important benefits received. * Hill's Theological Institutes, p. 282. 192 LANARKSHIRE. The corporation of the city are proprietors of the Established churches, and receive the seat rents. That the church is not bur- densome to the community is evident from the following official statement for 1834, by which it appears that the ecclesiastical re- venue exceeded the expenditure, L. 487, Is. 7d. as under : Rents of seats in the Established churches, . . L« 4030 15 Stipend to the Established clergymen of the city,* L. 3825 Communion elements, . . 163 10 7 Salaries to ten precentors, . . 146 11 8 Cleaning churches, insurance, coal and candle, . 110 10 Repairing church windows, . . . 31 16 3 General repairs and furnishings for churches, . 166 4 11 4443 13 5 Excess, . . L. 487 1 7 Individuals inimical to establishments think that the interest of the sums laid out in building the churches should form a part of the expense of the Establishment Without admitting the prin- ciple that parochial churches should support themselves;, on the contrary, believing that the law and the practice is otherwise, it may be well to see how the churches in Glasgow came into the possession of the corporation. In the first place, the Cathedral and Outer High Churches belong to the Crown, the corporation being at the expense of seating them. The College Church was given to the cor- poration by Queen Mary ; and on its becoming ruinous, it was re- built chiefly by private subscription. At present a very great pro- portion of the seats belong to the College or to private individuals. The Ramshorn Church in like manner was built chiefly by sub- scription. It has lately been rebuilt, under the name of St David's, at the expense of the corporation. This church, and its beautiful tower, after deducting the amount of sales of burying places in the crypt, cost the corporation little more than L.3000. St Enoch's Church, originally intended for a chapel of ease, was built chiefly by subscription, but was soon afterwards acquired by the corpora- tion for a parish church. It has lately been rebuilt on very favour- able terms; as the corporation, after receiving interest for the sum laid out, gained L. 132, 17s. 6d. per annum, as appeared from a printed paper which Dr Cleland addressed to the corporation when the church was finished. This saving arose chiefly from additional seats and better accommodation. The collections at the doors of the Established churches ave- rage rather more than L. 1800 per annum, which, when added to • By Act 4ft Geo. III. 6, C. 138, no stipend can be augmented until twenty yean after the date of the last decreet of modification. The incumbents of the Cathedral and Barony Churches were entitled to apply for an augmentation on 22d February GLASGOW. 193 the sum of L.487, Is. 7d. surplus revenue, is much more than would pay the interest of the expense of building the Established churches. The poor in this city, as is elsewhere stated, are support- ed by an assessment on the inhabitants, whether belonging to the Established Church or to the Dissenters. The collections at the doors of the Established churches go to reduce that assessment, but those received at the doors of the Dissenters chapels do not go to the fund, but are applied to purposes connected with their own body. City Mission. — The want of church accommodation, and the total inability of the clergymen of the city to attend to the religi- ous wants of a numerous class of the community, many of whom have no desire for religious instruction, led to the formation of the City Mission. The society was instituted upon the 1st of Janu- ary 1826, for the purpose of promoting the spiritual welfare of the poor of Glasgow and its neighbourhood, by employing persons of approved piety, and otherwise properly qualified, to visit the poor in their own houses, for the purpose of religious discourse, and to use other meaas of diffusing and increasing amongst them a know- ledge of evangelical truth. In December 1831, there were twenty- two licentiates or students of divinity employed at salaries of L.40 each ; twenty of these were on full time, viz. four hours per day, and the other two on two-thirds time. In addition to the city mission, a parochial mission was instituted in 1832, and there are now one missionary in every parish, and two or three in the large ones. Raman Catholics. — The number of Roman Catholics has greatly increased in Glasgow of late years. The following is a brief ac- count of their rise and progress. Although popular opinion ran very strong against the exercise of the Roman Catholic religion in this city till after the mitigation of the penal statutes, Bishop Hay occasionally came from Edin- burgh, and celebrated mass in a clandestine manner in a room in Blackstock's back tenement. Salt Market Street, to the few Catho- lics who at that time resided here. An act of Parliament having been passed for repealing certain pBoal statutes in England enacted against the Roman Catholics, ^ the 11th and 12th years of William IIL, a bill was brought in- ^ Parliament for repealing these statutes in Scotland, which ex- ited great alarm in that part of the kingdom. In Edinburgh, a ''^ob assembled on 3d February 1779, and burnt Bishop Hay's house and valuable library, and the house of Principal Robertson ^ould have shared the same fate, had it not been protected by the 194 LANARKSHIRE. military, he having expressed himself favourable to the repeal of the penal statutes. In Glasgow, the measure was viewed with so much alarm, that eighty-five societies were formed to oppose it ; and Mr John Pa- terson, a spirit-merchant, was appointed to keep up a corre- spondence with Lord George Gordon, at that time the head of the Protestant association in London. During the discussion in Par- liament, a mob collected on Sunday the 5th February 1780, dur- ing the time of divine service, and would have destroyed the dwel- ling-house of a Catholic where mass was being celebrated, had not Provost French and the other magistrates arrived in time to pre- vent it. On the Thursday following, being a day appointed for a national fast, a mob collected in King Street, and destroyed the shop of Mr Bagnall, a potter. Having completed their work of de- vastation, they went to Tureen Street, and destroyed his manufac* tory, for no other reason but that he was a Roman Catholic The increase of Roman Catholics in Glasgow may be dated from 1791. At that time the spirit for emigration from the North High- lands to America was such as to drain the country of many of its best labourers. The services of these hardy Northlanders being required at home, Messrs George M' In tosh, David Dale, Robert Dalglish, and other extensive manufacturers, invited them to this city, and to such as were Roman Catholics, security was promised in the exercise of their religion. The Tennis Court, in Mitchell Street, was fitted up as a temporary chapel, and the Reverend Alexander M*Donald, now Bishop of Upper Canada, was appointed priest in 1792. Mr M'Donald was succeeded by the Reverend John Farquhar- son in 1795. Soon after that time the number of Roman Catholics increased so much, that, in 1797, they built a small chapel in the Gallowgate, near the barracks. In 1805, Mr Farquharson was suc- ceeded by the Reverend Andrew Scott. From this period the num- ber of Roman Catholics increased so rapidly, that, in 1815, the foun- dation stone of a new chapel was laid in Clyde Street. This spa- cious edifice, in which there is a magnificent organ, was opened with great solemnity on the Sunday before Christmas 1816; after which the chapel in the Gallowgate was appropriated to another purpose. The number of Roman Catholics continuing to increase, the Lancasterian school-house in Gorbals was converted into a Ro- man Catholic chapel in 182a In 1831, there were 26,965 Ro- man Catholics in this city, and their number has increased con- siderably since. 3 GLASGOW. 195 On 21st September 1828^ the Reverend Andrew Scott was raised to the dignity of Bishop of Eretria in the Archipelago, and coad- jutor vicar aposf lie to Bishop McDonald for the western district of Scotland* Mr Sc .t was consecrated bishop with great solem- nity by the Right Reverend Bishop Paterson of Edinburgh, assist- ed by Bishop McDonald of Lismore, and Bishop Penswick of Liver- pooL Prior to 1821, there was only one priest resident in Glasgow; at that period there were two; in 1826, four; and in 1829, the number of clergymen was increased to five, viz. the Right Reverend Bishop Scott^ the Reverend John Murdoch (now Bishop,) the Re- verend John McDonald, the Reverend William Stewart, and the Reverend Charles Grant. ♦ Licenses to sell Spirits, — The number of persons licensed to re- tail spirituous liquors in the ten parishes of the city being 1393, and the number of famiHes, 19,467, gives one licensed person or public-house to 13iVo families. If the number of persons who retail spirituous liquors without being able to obtain a Ucense were taken into account on the one hand, and the number of temperate families who never use a public-house on the other, it may be said, that in Glasgow there is at least one place where spirits are re- tried for every twelve families / / / Pawnbrokers. — The business of a pawnbroker was. not known in Glasgow till August 1806. At that period an itinerant Eng- lish pawnbroker commenced business in a room in the High Street, but was obliged to give up at the end of six months, for want of business; and it was not until the 8th of June 1813, that John Graham, a disbanded town-officer, set up a regular pawnbroking • On 16th June 1835, a solemn dedication of St Margaret's Nunnery, Edinburgh, took place in its beautiful Saxon Cbapel, and at the same time an interesting and af- fecting ceremony took place on the admission of three young persons, who then en- tered Uieir noviciate into the community of the Sisters of Charity. The Right Re- ▼weod Bishop Carruthers, who officiated in chief, attired in gorgeous saccrdotals, tinkled the chapel with holy water. The sermon was delivered by Bishop Mur- Ajch of Glasgow, from the front of the altar. In eloquent and powerful language ^^^ Right Reverend Preacher alluded to the havoc which the Reformation had made ^ the Catholic institutions of this country, and also to the fiery bigotry which, even ^f«ent times, had consigned to the flames the only Catholic chapel in Edinburgh ; ■"d while he contrasted the persecuting fury of former times with the enlightened spirit and toleration of the present, he at the same time earnestly disclaimed alluding *° tl«»e things as matters of reproach to Protestants. lie adverted to them merely * fi^ts in history, and proceoDs, the public are greatly indebted for the splendid improvements on the river. The present trustees, with a revenue of L. 31,497, ^hject only to the interest of the debt, amounting at last balance to L. 125,231, 14s. lOd., will be enabled to do a great deal towards the general improvement of the river. Since the deepening of the river, ship-building has been intro- 200 LANARKSHIRE. duced here* A large steam vessel for the Mediterranean trade was lately launched at Glasgow. Application o/* the Steam^Engine in propelling vessels. — The application of steam in propelling vessels long engaged the atten- tion of men of mechanical genius. In 1736, Mr Jonathan Hulls obtained a patent for " a new invented machine for carrying ves- sels or ships out of or into any harbour, port, or river, against wind and tide, or in a calm;" but this scheme did not succeed. In 1781, the Marquis de Fouffroy made some unsuccessful experiments in propelling vessels by steam on the Saone at Lyons. In 1785, Mr James Rumsey of Virginia, and Mr John Fitch of Philadelphia, made several experiments, which were also unsuccessful. In the same year, Mr Patrick Miller of Dalswinton, Dumfries-shire, made several experiments with paddles, on twin and triple vessels, work- ed by men and horses, an account of which he published in February 1787. Soon after this, Mr Miller, built a boat with two keels, between which he introduced a propelling paddle ; and Mr Wil- liam Symington of Falkirk, applied the steam-engine to it; and in 1788, Mr Miller and Mr Symington made an experiment with it on Dalswinton pond. But after several attempts, it was found that the engine and wheel were so inefficient, as occasionally to require the assistance of manual labour at a windlass. Some time after this, Mr Miller caused a larger engine to be made at Carron Works, and an experiment was made with it on the Forth and Clyde Canal, which, though answering better than the former, did not succeed. In 1 794, the Earl of Stanhope constructed a steam- vessel with paddles under her quarters, but with no better success. In 1801 and 1802, Lord Dundas, then Governor of the Forth and Clyde Navigation, employed Mr Symington to construct a steam- boat for that canal, but this boat, from what Mr Syniington called the " opposition of narrow minds," was laid up in a creek near Bainsford Bridge, where it remained as a wreck for many years. Mr Taylor and other ingenious individuals also failed in their laudable attempts. The whole race of steam propellers having thus left the field one by one, without being able to eflFect their object, the ground was occupied by Mr Henry Bell,* who, having a turn for mechanics, made a sieam-engine of three horse-power, and employed Messrs • Mr Bell was born in the parish of Torphichen, Linlithgowshire, on 7th April 1767. He died at the Baths, Helensburgh, Dumbartonshire, on Uth November 1830. GLASGOW. 201 John Wood and Company, ship-builders in Port-Glasgow, to build a boat for him, which he called the Comet.* On 18th January 1812, the Comet began to ply between Glasgow and Greenock, and made five miles an hour against a head wind, whilst, by simply increasing her power, she went at the rate of seven miles an hour. Tlis was the first vessel that was successfully propelled on a na- vigable river in Europe, and it is very remarkable, that, notwith- standing the great progress in mechanical science, no improvement has yet been made on Mr Bell's mode ; although numerous efforts have been made here and elsewhere for that purpose. It is true that boats go swifter now than formerly, but the propelling system remains the same. To this brief account of the origin of the steam-propelling system in this country, it must be added that the Americans preceded us fully four years. In October 1807, Mr Robert Fulton, an American engineer, launched a steam-boat at New York, which plied with great effect between that city and Albany, a distance of 160 miles. Clyde Steam-vesseb in 1831 and 1835. — Out-sea Boats. 1831. Vessels, Tonnage, Uferpool, 5 910 Belfast, 3 429 DubUn 2 370 Londonderry, 2 238 Total, - 12 1947 1831. Vessels. Tonnage. 1835. Vessels, Tonnage. 7 1522 6 918 3 474 2 289 Boats for goods and passengers plying as far u Stranraer on the one side of the Clyde, ^d to the West Highlands on the other, ^ts for passengers only, and plying on the mer and Frith of Clyde, . - - Luggage boats, - - - - - Toving boats, 18 3203 1835. Vessels. Tonnage, 8 25 7 3 Abstract. 600 1728 431 199 11 26 8 4 834 1927 470 257 ^t-^ea boats, ^'^ndi and passengers. fwsengers, J;"Kage, fowing, 1831. Vessels, Tonnage. 12 8 25 7 3 1947 600 1728 431 199 1835. Vessels, Tonnage, 18 11 26 8 4 3203 834 1927 470 257 Total, - 55 4905 67 6691 The above tonnage is register measure ; carpenter's measure in • The progress in steam navigation of late years is truly wonderful. In January 1S12, there was not a steam-boat in Europe excepting the " Comet,|' of three horse power, at Glasgow. Now almost every navigable river in Europe is teeming with ^^, Some of the Glasgow boats have now upwards of 240 horse power. 202 LANARKSHIRE. steam*yessels is about one-third more. All the new boats either for the out-sea or river trade, are of greater engine power, and are much more splendidly fitted up for the accommodation of passen- gers than heretofore. The speed is also greatly improved. The Liverpool boats in 1831 were thought to have made good passages, when they performed the run from Liverpool to Greenock, a dis- tance of 220 miles, in twenty-four to twenty-six hours. It is now done much sooner. On Wednesday, 24th June 1835, the steam- packet City of Glasgow, belonging to Messrs Thomson and Mac- connell, left Greenock, and arrived in Liverpool in the unprece- den tedly short period of seventeen hours andfifty-fioeminvtes ; and the steam-packet Manchester, belonging to Messrs James Martin, and James and George Bums and Company of this city, left the Clarence dock, Liverpool, on Monday evening the 15th December 1834, and arrived in Glasgow, a distance of 240 miles, discharged and loaded her cargoes, and was back again in the same dock within the short period oi sixty hours. This was done in the dead of winter, and shows what may be accomplished by steam navigation, from studying the tides in the Mersey and Clyde. The cabin fares for the river boats are rather less than one penny per mile, and for out-sea boats rather more. To Liverpool the fare is L. 1, 5s. While locomotive engines have succeeded on our rail-roads to admiration, the steam carriages on the common road from Glas- gow to Paisley have been abandoned. The Forth and Clyde Navigation. — In 1768, an act of Parlia- ment was obtained for making a canal from the river Forth, at or near the mouth of the river Carron, in the county of Stirling, to the river Clyde, at or near Dalmuir Burnfoot, in the county of Dum- barton, with a collateral cut to the city of Glasgow. On the 10th of June in that year, Sir Lawrence Dundas dug out the first spade- ful of earth for the formation of the canal, and it was opened from the eastern to the western sea on the 28th of July 1790. On the llth of November in the same year, the basin at Port Dundas was finished. The length of the navigation from the Forth to the Clyde is 35 miles, and the cut to Glasgow, 2^ miles. There are 39 locks on the canal, namely, 20 from the Forth to Glasgow, and 19 between the great aqueduct and the Clyde. The length of the locks between the gates is 74 feet, the width 20 feet, and the fall 10 feet. The medium width of the surface of the canal is 56 feet, at bottom 27 feet ; and the depth nearly 10 feet. The rise from the east sea to the summit level of the canal at Wineford GLASGOW. 203 Lock is 156 feet ; and the descent to the Clyde 150 feet, so that the Forth at the east end of the canal is 6 feet lower than the Clyde at Bowling. This great canal, which required 22 years for its completion, was one of the most arduous to execute in the kingdom ; having to encounter rocks, precipices, and quicksands ; in some places it runs through a deep moss, and in others it is banked 20 feet high. It crosses many rivulets and roads, as well as 2 consi- derable rivers, the Luggie and the Kelvin. The bridge over the latter, which consists of four arches, and carries the canal across a deep valley, cost L. 8509. The canal is supplied with water by eight reservoirs covering 721 acres, and containing 24,902 lock- fulls of water. Mr Kirkman Finlay of Castle Toward, the present governor, was elected to that important office on 20th March 1816. At the following balance the rate per cent on each original share of L 100 was L. 25. The annual average revenue during sixteen years previous to Mr Finlay being appointed governor, was L. 30,323, 7s. 6d. ; and the annual average revenue during sixteen years after it was L. 46,680, 1 Is. 4d. In 1832, there were 2 steam passage-boats on the canal ; each of 24 horse power. These boats went at the rate of six miles an hour. In 1833^ the steam-boats gave place to swift iron boats, which travel at the rate of 10 miles an hour. Five of these boats leave Port Dundas for Stirling and Edinburgh, and return every lawful day, and two additional ones are in a state of preparation. In 1832, the revenue from steam and heavy drag boats was L1213, 19s. 5d.; in 1833 from the swift boats L. 3007, 19s. Id.; and in 1834, upwards of L. 5000. Monkland Canal, — This canal affords a cheap communication between the city of Glasgow, and the collieries in the parishes of Old and New Monkland, distant about 12 miles. The canal was origbally 35 feet broad at the top, and 24 at the bottom, depth of ^aterupon the lock sills 5 feet, and the smallest depth throughout any part of the canal 4 feet 6 inches. The banks have been re- cently raised, by which a greater depth of water is procured. At Blackhill there are 4 locks of 2 chambers, each chamber 7 1 feet long, 14 feet broad, and 12 feet deep. The head level at the top tfBlackhill is continued to Sheepford, a distance of 8 miles, where there are 2 single locks of 1 1 feet 6 inches each, which carries the canal to the river Calder. In the spring of 1813, 3 passage-boats began to ply to Sheepford, about a mile from Airdrie. This canal 204 LANARKSHIRE. has been productive to the stockholders for a number of years past Glasffowj Paisley 9 and Ardrossan CanaL — The expense of land- carriage from Glasgow to the west coast through the fertile coun- ties of Renfrew, and Ayr, abounding with coal and limestone, sug- gested a wat-er conveyance. Th& operations on the canal com- menced in May 1807, and the navigation opened between Glasgow and Johnstone on the 4th of October 1811. Although the canal was opened at that period, the trade did not commence till April 1812. The length of the canal from Port Eglinton to Ardrossan is d2| miles, from Port Eglinton to Johnstone 1 1 miles, breadth at top 30 feet, at bottom 1 8 feet, and depth 4 feet 6 inches. There are no locks on that part of the canal yet executed, viz. between Port Eglinton and Johnstone ; but when the canal is carried for- ward, there will be eight near Johnstone to raise the canal to the summit level, and thirteen to fall down to the harbour of Ardros- san. On the 6th of November 1810, passage-boats were put on this canal ; but Mr William Houston, of Johnstone Castle, has the merit of introducing swift iron boats. The great increase of passengers may be seen from the follow- ing statement H Tnps each day. Patten- gert each trip. 79455 289 8 34 1-3 275 148516 311 14 341-9 477 240062 310 20 382-3 774 307275 313 22 44 2-3 962 From 1st Oct. 1890 to SOth Sept. 183I| 1st Oct. 1831 to 30th Sept. 1832, Ist Oct 1832 to 30th Sept 1833, 1st Oct iaS3 to SOth Sept. 1834, The passengers did not all travel from Glasgow to John- stone, many of them leaving at intermediate stages. During the months of July and August 1834, 50,000 persons took passages on the canal; — the number in one day was 2500. The proportions of the best cabin and second cabin passengers are, one-fifth of the best cabin passengers at one penny per mile, and four-fifths of se- cond cabin passengers at three farthings per mile. The average total fare on the canal is therefore sixteen-twentieths of a penny per mile. The swift boats on the Forth and Clyde, and Union Canals, ply at similar rates. Union Canal. — The Union Canal was begun on the 3d of March 1818. It is 31^ miles in length from Port-Hopetoun, near Edinburgh, to Port-Downie, near Falkirk. The navigation for ten miles west from Port-Hopetoun was opened on the 22d of March 1822, and to Port-Downie early in May thereafter. The GLASGOW. 205 canal is on a level line for 30 miles from- Port Hopetoun, — the re- maiDiDg distance is occupied by 11 locks, each 10 feet deep, so that the Union Canal at the head of the locks is 110 feet above the Forth and Clyde Navigation. The Union Canal is 40 feet broad at the top, 20 feet at the bottom, and 5 feet deep. This canal has not yet been productive to such stockholders as have not an mterest in the Forth and Clyde Navigation. The Gamkirk Railway from Glasgow to near Airdrie was par- tially opened on the 2d of July 1831. On 1st February 1832, the locomotive engine, the ^' Glasgow," built by Messrs Johnston and M'Nab of this city, hauled a train of 36 loaded coal waggons 8^ miles, a gross weight of about 145 tons, in 1 hour and 7 minutes, thus cairying a load of twenty times her own weight. This was the first locomotive engine made in Scotland on the improved construction. Stage-Coaches, — Stage-coaches were first used in Scotland in 1678. The first mail-coach from London to Glasgow arrived at the Saracen's Head on Monday the 7th of July 1788. At that period the mail went by Leeds, a distance of 405 miles, and ar- HTed in 65 hours, travelling at nearly 6^ miles in the hour ; in 1835 the mail goes by Wetherby, a distance of 395 miles, and arrives in 41 1 hours. The speed from Carlisle to Glasgow is at the rate of 11 miles an hour. On the 10th of January 1799, Mr John Gard- ner of the Bucks Head, Glasgow, started a coach to Edinburgh with four horses, which performed the journey of 42 miles in 6 hours. The time now occupied on the road by stage-coaches is about 4^ hours. In 1833 there were on an average 61 stage coaches, which de- parted from, and returned to Glasgow, every lawful day. The Diails every day are, — to London, 2; Edinburgh, 12; Paisley, 13; Hamilton, 5 ; Lanark, 3 ; Perth, 2 ; Stirling, 2 ; and to other towns, 22. These coaches were drawn by 183 horses, and 671 horses are kept for them. They accommodated 832 passengers ; riz. inside 284, outside 548. The intercourse with Glasgow by coaches, steam-boats, track- ^% and rail-roads, is so great that it almost exceeds belief. As ^nae of the coaches and steam-boats depart and arrive more than once a-day, and the mail-coaches every day, the following may be ^len as a low average of passengers by stage-coaclics, and steam- boats ; while the others are from the books of the respective com- panies. During 1834, 61 stage-coaches, each averaging twelve passengers, arrived and departed during 313 lawful days. This 206 LANARKSHIRE. gave 458,232 persons in the year. By 37 steam-boats, 25 passen- gers each 579,050; by the swift boats on the Forth and Clyde Na^ vigation and Union Canal, 91,975; by the light iron boats on the Paisley Canal, 307,275 ; by the boats on the Monkland Canal, 31,784; and by the Glasgow and Garnkirk Rail-road, 118,882; the gross number of passengers amounting to 1,587,198. Private Carriages. — Mr Allan Dreghorn, timber-merchant and builder, was the first person who started a private carriage in this city. It was made by his own workmen in 1752. The number of carriages in the city and suburbs charged with duty in 1832 was 402, viz. stage-coaches 61; hackney carriages 140; private carri- ages, 201, viz. with four wheels 114, two wheels 87. The private carriages have increased considerably during the last two years. Relays of post-chaises did not exist in Scotland except on the roads from Edinburgh to London, till the year 1776; and even in England, relays are of comparatively recent date. Mr John Glass- ford and Mr Andrew Thomson Senior, Glasgow merchants, went to London on horseback in the year 1739. At that period there was no turnpike road till they came to Grantham, within 110 miles of London. Up to that point they travelled upon a narrow cause- way, with an unmade soft road upon each side of it; and they met from time to time strings of pack-horses, from thirty to forty in a gang, — the mode by which goods were transported from one part of the country to another. Mitts. — The town mills on the Molendinar Burn, erected about the middle of the fourteenth century, supplied from the Hogganfield and Frankfield lochs, are not of so much use to the inhabitants as they were before steam-mills were introduced. The water and steam-mills on the river Kelvin, at Partick and Clay- slap, belonging to the corporation of bakers, are very extensive, and of a superior construction. The establishment contains a large steam-mill, seven water-wheels, twenty-two pairs of stones, (Bour- deaux Burrs,) six boultin, and three shealing machines. The gra- naries and kilns are proportionate to the mills, which can grind 12,000 bushels of wheat weekly. The bakers got a grant of their old mill at Partick from the Regent Murray, for their services at the battle of Langside on 13th May 1568. The value of the mill property is upwards of L. 50,000. Markets. — The markets for butcher-meat, fish, cheese, butter, &c. have been much neglected of late. The great increase of the town has induced persons at a distance from the markets to GLASGOW. 207 resort to shops. The live-cattle market is, however, an excep- UoD, and is entitled to particular notice. Prior to the year 1818^ tlie principal butchers in this city were frequently obliged to tra- Tel a circuit of seventy or eighty miles to purchase cattle in lots, and to rent expensive parks in the neighbourhood of the city to graze them in; but since the erection of the live-cattle market, the mode of supply is completely changed. In 1818, the magis- trates fitted up a spacious market-place, between the great roads to Edinburgh, by Gallowgate and Duke Street, in which there are a eommodious inn, stables, sheds, a byre to contain 120 bullocks in view, and 260 pens to contain 9360 sheep. This market-place, allowed to be the most complete in the kingdom, occupies an area of 29,560 square yards, or rather more than six imperial acres, is paved with whinstones, and encloseil with stone walls. Since its for- mation, graziers and dealers from Aberdeenshire to Dumfries-shire, and from Berwickshire to Argyleshire, find it their interest to send their cattle to this market, where they find a ready sale, and return in cash. It is admitted that this market has been of great use to all classes of the community, excepting perhaps the more wealthy butchers. The graziers and dealers are benefited by a regular sale, without running the risk of bad debts. The public have a more regular and plentiful supply of butcher-meat of the best quality. The butcher is saved the trouble, and the public, the expense, of travelling. The butcher of small capital, who for- merly had not the means of getting good meat, can now go to market ; and if his capital be equal to the purchase of a bullock, and a dozen of sheep or lambs, he can compete with his more wealthy brethren. Monopoly is now unknown. The dues of the market were let by public sale in 1832 on lease, at L. 1075 per an- num, which leaves an annual profit to the trustees of upwards of 1*500. It was Dr Cleland who projected and established this im- portant market The advantages arising from this market have induced the Irish glaziers to send cattle to it. On the 18th December 1834, the Green Isle steamer arrived in Glasgow from Drogheda, loaded ex- clusively with cattle and pigs. This was the first cattle-carrying steamer that arrived in the Clyde, and the traffic is to be continued. • In 1822, a few rumps of beef were sent by the Edinburgh butchers to the Glasgow market, and this trade has increased so much, that during 1834, 7210 rumps were sent to Glasgow, the average value of each being 20s. Public Buildings, — In a work of this nature, an architectural 208 LANARKSHIRE. description of the public buildings in Glasgow would be superflu- ous. We shall therefore confine ourselves merely to mentioning a few of the most prominent of those appropriated for ecclesiastical purposes, and a few for the civil concerns of the city. For eccle- siastical, the first in order is the Cathedral, which is allowed to be the most splendid edifice of old English architecture that is to be found in Scotland. Its length from east to west is 319 feet, width 63 feet, height of the nave 90 feet, and of the choir 85 feet. In this edifice there are 2 steeples, 147 pillars, and 159 windows of various dimensions, many of them of exquisite workmanship.* * Mr Rickman, the celebrated architect, who gave the design for St David's Church in this city, in his work on Gothic Architecture, dd edit., p. 936, says, ** That the crypt of the cathedral of Glasgow is not equalled by any in the kingdom. The piers and groins are all of the most intricate character, the most beautiful design, and ex- cellent execution. The flowered capitals of the piers are much like those of York.* The choir of the cathedral was renovated several years ago by the corporation, in ft manner which does it great honour, so much so, that it is not too much to say, that the Cathedral Church of Glasgow is unrivalled in Scotland. But to the regret of every man of taste, the magnificent nave has been allowed to get into a state of great dilapidation. The arches, and the tabernacle work, and the images at the rood-loft ftt the cast end are in decay, and the muUions and flowing tracery of the windows in the north and south fa9ades, are in a similar condition. The west end is bounded by ft bare wall, erected 170 years ago, and quite incompatible with the grandeur and ar« chitectural effect of the other parts. Such is the condition of the nave of the Glas- gow cathedraL Instead of its being a groat ornament to the city, it is calculated to im- press strangers with the lowest estimate of the taste and public spirit of the citisens of Glasgow. Impressed with the importance of the measure, Dr Cleland frequently suggested to the public the renovation of the nave, and at length, on the 22d October 1S29, he drew up, printed, and widely circulated, an appeal to his fellow-citizcnsy and com- menced a subscription for this important and i:ecessary work, but owing to an unex- pected difficulty, raised on the part of the Cfown, to whom the edifice bclongtf the pro- jected improvements were postponed. The public mind thus directed, never lost sight of the scheme. In 1832, Mr Archibald M'Lellan, then a member of the town- council, and president of the Dilletanti Society, suggested, in his valuable work on Cathedrals, that the Outer High Church, tlien deeply affected by dry rot, should be abandoned as a place of worship, and restored to the nave. While this magni- ficent scheme would have had no chance of success in 1829, as matters then were, there is now every prospect of its being carried into effect, from the circumstance of that church having, in 1835, been formally declared by two eminent physicians^f unfit for a place of wonhip. The corporation, as proprietors of the seats, having thus no alternative, have commenced the building of a church in High John Street, in lieu of the Outer High Church. The nave, including the space now occu- pied by that church, will then be a receptacle for monuments to departed worth, and the grand entrance to the Cathedral Church. Even in its present dilapidated state, there are monuments in the nave, which would be considered elegant in Westminster Abbey, and worthy of a place in St Paul's Cathedral. There is now every reason to believe that Government will contribute liberally to the renovation of the Cathedral out of the burgh and barony teinds, Dr Cleland hay- ing lately had an opportunity of pointing out the defects to the Right Honourable Sir John Cam Hobhouse, at that time Chief Commissioner of the Woods and Forests, which Board has been lately entrusted with the management of the Crown eccle- siastical edifices. Some time prior to 1 817, his Majesty's Government resolved that in future they would not give a tack of Crown teinds without a fine of three years free tcind. On 5th July 1823, William Smith, Esq. of Carbeth- Guthrie, then Lord Provost, and Dr Cleland at* f Dr Burns and Dr Balmanno. GLASGOW. 209 St Andrew's, St David's, and St Enoch's Churches, and the Al- bion Street, George Street, and Wellington Street Chapels, be- longing to the Dissenters, are fine specimens of architecture. For civil purposes the Royal Exchange is prominent. This build- ing, from designs by Mr David Hamilton, a native of Glasgow, is lemarkable for its beauty, its extent, and its architectural decora- tions. Mr Hamilton was also architect to Hamilton Palace, one of the greatest architectural ornaments in Scotland. The Hun- terian Museum, from designs by Mr William Stark, is a beautiful model of a Greek Temple. The Royal Infirmary by Adams, and the Lunatic Asylum by Stark, are at once ornamental and appro- priate for their respective purposes. Streets and Squares. — The streets, with the exception of some of those in the old part of the town, are all sixty feet wide, and the houses are built of stone and covered with slate. There are four squares, viz. Blythswood's, George's, St Enoch's, and St Andrew's. Tie three former are planted with shrubberry, and St Andrew's Church stands in the centre of the last. Burying Grounds. — There are twenty burying grounds in the city and suburbs.* The Necropolis, formed by the Merchants' House in 1830, in their elevated park adjoining the cathedral, in imitation of the cemetery Pere la Chaise in Paris, stands unrival- led in the kingdom for picturesque effect. tended the Exchequer Court in Edinburgh, and obtained a tack of the tcinds for the corporation and the Barony-heritors on the following terms : Tbree years free teind of the burgh and barony, as ascertained by the lolidtorofteinds, L.7137 11 8 DediKt for ten heritors on cause shown to the court, - - 679 8 Fine paid for the tack of the teinds for 19 years, from 1817, the penod when the last tack expired, - ... L. 6458 3 8 TIm Lords of the Treasury were pleased to allocate from the above sum for repairing the cathedral, L. 30(X) (^t to the Botanic Garden, ... '20()0 5000 ^UsarredbytheTreaswT', but since laid out in repairing the cathedral, L. 1468 3 8 "Hie lease expires in 1836, when there is no doubt a similar fine will be exacted. • ^^Tien the north-west burying ground was formed, it was distant from house's, but nWifrom the great increase of population, it is in the very centre of the city, sur- '"Wnded by houses on all sides, and consequently very offensive to the neighbourhood. Ai it would be a very arduous undertaking to remove a public burying ground, where there are burying places for more than ,'>(X) families, Dr Clcland suggested throwing the whole burying ground into a grand vaulted cemetery, the groined arches sup- porting a floor of upwards of 7000 square yards, to be approjiriated for public purposes. This magnificent scheme, of which a plan was lithographed at the expense of the cor- poration, and widely circulated, would not only relieve the town of a nuisance, but ftom the central situation of the ground, would give an excellent opportunity for ba- au- purposes, while light and air would be preserved for the health of the inhabitants. 210 LANARKSHIRE. Monuments and Statues. — Amongst others may be enumerated an equestrian statue of William III. erected at the cross; an obe- lisk in honour of Lord Nelson, in the Green ; a pedestrian statue of Sir John Moore, in bronze, on a granite pedestal, by Flaxman, in George Square ; a pedestrian statue of William Pitt, in marble^ by Flaxman, in the Town-Hall ; a trophy monument in honour of Lieutenant- Colonel Cadogan, (71st, or Glasgow Regiment,) in marble, by Hamilton, in the nave of the cathedral ; a pillar sur* mounted by a statue in honour of John Knox, by Forrest, in the Necropolis ; a pedestrian statue of James Watt, in bronze, on a granite pedestal, in George Square, by Chantry ; also a pedes- trian statue of James Watt, in marble, by Chantry, in the Hun- terian Museum ; and an architectural monument, with a statue of William M' Gavin, by Forrest, in the Necropolis. It has not yet been determined in what part of the town the monumental column in honour of Sir Walter Scott is to be placed. Theatre. — Previously to the Reformation, and for some time af- terwards, pantomime representations of the history of our Saviour, his miracles, and passion, were exhibited in this city. It does not appear that any theatrical representation was allowed in this city from the Reformation in 1560 till 1750. At the latter period, Mr Burrell's dancing-hall in the High Street was used for that pur- pose, — being four years after the theatre in the Canongate of Edin- burgh was opened, which was the first regular theatre in Scotland after the Reformation. In 1752, a booth or temporary theatre was fitted up adjoining the wall of the archbishop's palace, in which Digges, Love, Stampier, and Mrs Ward performed. Messrs Jack*- son, Love, and Beatc, comedians, built a regular theatre in the Grahamston suburb, which was opened in the spring of 1764 by Mrs Bellamy, and other respectable performers. On the first night of performance, the machinery and scenery were set on fire by some disorderly persons. When the stage was refitted, the theatre was occasionally kept open, but with very indifferent success; and at one o'clock on the morning of the 16th April 1782, it was burnt to the ground. There was no theatre in Glasgow from this period till January 1785, when the Dunlop Street Theatre, erected by Mr Jackson, was opened by Mrs Siddons, Mrs Jourdan, and other per- formers. From this period the taste for theatricals increased so much, that a subscription was set on foot for a theatre upon a large scale ; and on the 24th of April 1805, the most magnificent provin- cial theatre in the empire was opened in Queen Street, at an ex- GLASGOW. 211 pense of L. 18»500. It was let on lease for L. 1200 per anuum ; bm it was soon found that the taste for theatricals did not keep pice with the sums laid out for accommodation and splendour. The premises were then let at the reduced rent of L. 800 to others, who dto failed to implement their engagement, and even when the rent sat lowered to L. 400, it was paid with difficulty. The property vas tlieo sold at a price, only equal to the outstanding debts and gro—d rent, so that the shareholders got nothing. This splendid edifice was bonied to the ground on the forenoon of the 10th of January 1829; a gas light having come in contact with the ceiling of one of the lobbies, leading to the upper gallery. After this catastrophe, the old theatre in Dunlop Street was enlarged and embellished by Mr Alexander ; and is found to be quite large enough for the play-going people of Glasgow and neighbour- hood. Cock'Fighting. — In former times cock-fighting was so prevalent inthispartof the country, that on certain holidays, school-boys pro- vided cocks, and the fight was superintended by the master. But as civilization advanced, this practice gradually disappeared, and at length the amusement in the estimation of many came under the denomination of cruelty to animals. During the latter part of the last and the beginning of the present century, cock-fighting in this city was conducted in a clandestine manner. In 1 807, our cock-fight- ing amateurs, finding a vacant temporary building in Queen Street, made preparations for fighting a main, but when the sport bad just commenced, a portion of the city and county magistrates made their appearance and dismissed the meeting. Since that period maios have occasionally been fought here without the interference of the authorities. Of late, however, the desire for this amusement has so much increased, that in this year (1835) a spacious build- ing has been erected for a cock-pit in Hope Street, on the joint stock principle. This building, which is seated for about 280 per- sons, has suitable accommodation for the judges, handlers, and feed- ers, and is inferior in nothing to the Westminster pit, but in its dimensions. The company who frequent the Glasgow cock-pit do not belong to the " exclusives;" for here we have all grades from the senator it the journeyman butcher. Corporation of Glasgow. — Glasgow was governed by a Provost and Bailies so early as the year 1268. In 1605, the constitution ol the burgh was settled in three distinct bodies, viz. the town- 212 LANARKSHIRE. council, the merchants' and the trades' houses. The town-coun- cil consisted of certain persons from the rank of merchants and trades. In 1801, some alteration was made on the constitution; and from that period till 1833, the corporation consisted of a Provost, five Bailies, twelve Councillors from the merchants, and eleven from the trades rank, a master of work, and a treasurer. The Gorbals and water bailies were chosen from the council, who elected themselves. One-third went out of the council every year, and could not return for three years. The merchants' house sent a list of three persons to the council, from which they elected one to be Dean of Guild ; and in like manner the trades' house, when one of the three was elected convener. Since 1833, when the Burgh Reform Act passed, the Town- Council has been chosen by the Parliamentary constituency, con- sisting of upwards of 7000 persons, who pay a yearly rent of at least L. 10. The city is divided into five wards, each ward elect- ing six Councillors. The Dean of Guild and Convener of the Trades are elected by their respective houses. When added U} the Councillors, they elect a Provost, five Bailies, a Treasurer, and Master of Work; one-third of the Councillors go out of office every year, but may be immediately re-elected. The revenue of the city varies from L. 15000 to L. 16000. Previously to the passing of the Reform Act, the burghs of Glasgow, Rutherglen, Renfrew, and Dumbarton, elected one in- dividual to represent them in Parliament ; but since that act has been in operation, the above-mentioned constituency for Glasgow return two Members to Parliament. The first Members under the Reform Act were Mr James Ewing of Levenside, and Mr James Oswald of Shieldhall, both merchants in Glasgow. In thus giving a brief account of the former and present constitution of the corporation of Glasgow, it has been shewn that the Burgh Reform Act has placed the management of the corporation affairs in the hands of Councillors elected by those who enjoy the ten pound franchise. That the time had arrived when a salutary Reform in the Scotch burghs became necessary is admitted by all who had the good of their country at heart ; abuses in the lapse of ages having crept into the management of many of them. It is, however, gratifying to know, that, for more than a century bypast, the managers of the corporation of Glasgow have been GLASGOW. 213 distinguished for ability, purity of conduct, and integrity in the discharge of their multifarious duties. The city, from having had a mean appearance, is now the most splendid of any manufacturing city or town in the empire. Nor has their exertions been confin- ed only to the embelUshment of the city; for trade, commerce, and numerous benevolent institutions have prospered in their hands, and when they surrendered their trust to the Reformed Town-Council in November 1833, the funds were in a flourishing condition. Several years ago, when that able and indefatigable reformer. Lord Archibald Hamilton, advocated Burgh Reform in the Housed of G>mmons, his Lordship stated in the Committee of which he was Chairman, that the affairs of the city of Glasgow were con- ducted in the most honourable and open manner. Indeed, the fiiitbful and disinterested management of the corporation concerns of Glasgow has long been acknowledged all over the country. Of the Reformed Town- Council the citizens of Glasgow have not yet had much experience. There is, however, one part of their conduct, which, as we consider it an evil, we animadvert upon, in the hope of repressing it in their successors. Some of the coun- cillors, unwarily, or it may be from ambition, pledged themselves to certain measures, and thereby became delegates of a party, instead of being representatives of the whole community. This is to be regret- ted the more, as a majority of the council have suspended a part of the local taxes for a purpose not affecting the general interest. Should this measure be carried into effect, which the best informed consider illegal, it will necessarily prevent their successors from improving the city, building churches, reducing church seat-rents for the poor, maintaining market-places, gaols, and other local ser- vices, — for which such taxes were long since granted by royal au- thority or legislative enactment. It was to be expected that, in a great community like this, there would be some political demagogues who, intoxicated by the power conferred on them by the Burgh Reform Act, would abuse it ; but let us indulge the hope, that, when the political effervescence has had time to subside, the electors and elected will join hand ip hand for the public good without respect to political party, and that the future councillors, like many of those now intrusted with the munici- pal concerns of the city, will be men of integrity and honourable feeling, whose every effort will be to promote the good of the com- munity. LANARK. P 214 LANARKSHIRE. Gaol and CourUHouses. — For a number of years previous to 1807, the gaol at the cross had become deficient in almost every requisite. Situated in the centre of the city, without court-yards, chapel, or infirmary, it contained no more than thirty-two apart- ments for the accommodation of prisoners of every description, col- lected occasionally from the populous counties of Lanark, Renfrew, and Dumbarton, and invariably at the justiciary circuits, — having very slender accommodation for the local courts of justice, whilst that for the circuit court of justiciary was quite inadequate. Im- pressed with the necessity of affording more suitable accommoda- tion for the courts of justice, and more convenient and healthful apartments for prisoners, the magistrates and council, on the Idth of February 1807, resolved to erect a new gaol and public offices in a healthy situation adjoining the river, at the bottom of the pub- lic green. This building, which cost L. 34,800, contains, exclu- sively of the public offices, 122 apartments for prisoners. As there is a water-closet in each gallery, every individual prisoner, debtor and delinquent, has access to one of them, and to an unli- mited supply of pure filtered water from the Water Company's pipes ; and pipes are introduced into each court, from which they are daily washed, and the air in them frequently cooled in hot weather. There are two rooms, with anti-rooms, insulated from the gaol, for persons under sentence of death, and so constructed, that irons are never used. It is believed that this is the only pri- son in the kingdom where persons under sentence of death are not put in irons. Every room is provided with the necessary uten- sils at the expense of the corporation. There is a well-aired In- firmary room, though it is seldom used, from the healthiness of the prisoners ; and the chapel is seated to contain about 200 persons. The governor's house is so constructed, that, from his sitting par- lour, he can overlook both court-yards. The justiciary hall is so spacious as to contain about 500 persons. It is^ however, much, to be regretted that there are some radical defects in this gaoL The number of incarcerations in the gaol for debt has of late years happily decreased, whilst the incarcerations for delinquency have been rather on the increase. In 1831, it was ascertained for Government that there were 630 persons incarcerated for debt, viz. on Justice of Peace decrees, 110; Sheriff's decrees, 287; acts of warden, 61 ; letters of cap- tion, 150; warrants medit.fugce^ 22. For delinquency, 758; viz. on criminal warrants, 679; deserted GLASGOW. 215 from the army, 42 ; lawburrows, 1 1 ; breach of sequestration, 9 ; breach of servitude, 5 ; breach of game-laws, I ; Crown debtors, BOW classified with delinquents, 1 1. During the last seven years there have been no deaths among the debtors, and only 4 among the delinquents. The average number of delinquents committed yearly during five years, ending on the 31 st December 1834, was 667. From 1765 to 1830, 89 persons were executed in Glasgow, of which Dumber 5 were females. During the first 12 years there were only 6 persons executed, whilst in the last 12 there were 37. During 86 years previously to 1831, there were 26 in which there were no executions, 15 in which there was 1 each year; ten, 2; seven, 3; four, 4; one, 5; and two in which there were 6. From the 29th of September 1830, to the 20th of January 1834, 12 persons have been executed in Glasgow, viz. 1 1 males, and 1 female ; of whom 6 were for murder, 1 for rape, 1 for hamesucken, 1 for robbery, and 3 for housebreaking and theft. From the 4th of May 1818, to the 8th of October 1834, 6 persons received sentence of death, but had their punishment commuted to transportation for life, viz. 4 males and 2 females ; of whom 1 for murder, 1 for hamesucken tod rape, 1 for robbery, and 1 for housebreaking and theft ; the two imales for issuing forged bank notes. BridewelL — The Bridewell in Duke Street was opened on the 8th of May 1798, and supported by the corporation funds for up- wards of twenty-four years. This building, which still remains, consists of six stories, and contains 105 cells. Although but ill toiled for classification, it answered the purpose for a number of years; but^ from the great increase of population, and consequently of crime, in the city and county, it was agreed that the new build- ings should be so large as to contain the city and county prisoners, combining the improvements which experience had pointed out. The authorities having procured an act of Parliament for assessing the city and county for building and maintaining a Bridewell, they ^ected a set of buildings so well suited for the purpose, as to be the admiration of all who have made prisons and prison-discipline their study. This prison, which adjoins the former one, was open- ed on the 25th of December 1824. It combines all the advantages of modem improvement, security, seclusion, complete classifi^ca- tioD, and healthful accommodation. The commitments in 1834 were as follows : 216 LANARKSHIRE. Males above 17 yean of age, .... 815 Males below 17 yeats of age, . - - 222 1035 Females above 1 7 years of age, - - - - 864 Females below 1 7 years of age, - _ - 68 dS2 Total commitments, - - . 1967 Remained on 2d of August 1833, .... 356 Prisoners in all, .... 2323 Liberated during the year, . - . - - 2030 Remaining on 2d of August 1834, - 293 The average number daily in the prison was 320 ; viz. males, 162; females, 158. Abstract accounts for the year ended 2d of August 1834. To repairs on the buildings, ... L.*156 10 Salaries and wages, .... 835 14 11 L.992 4 II By amount of prisoners' labour, &c. - - L. 2182 6 2 To victuals, bedding, cloaths, washing, me- dicine, coal, candle, furniture, machinery utensils, stationery, &c. - - J 664 6 Cash paid prisoners for surplus earnings, 116 5 3 1780 11 3 Surplus to be deductedfrom salaries and wages, 401 14 II Balance, being the cost of Bridewell for the year ended 2d August 1834, L. 590 10 It appears from the above statement, that, besides the sum of L. 116, 5s. 3d. paid to inmates, the produce of the work perform- ed maintained all the prisoners, with a surplus of L. 401, 14s. lid. — which surplus goes to lessen the expense of repairs on the build- ings, and the salaries and wages. The whole deficiency, amount- ing to L.590, 10s. divided by 1967, the number committed, shews that the net expense to the public for every committal is no more than 6s., the average period of residence being 59J days. Taking another view, the deficiency of L. 590, 10s. when applied to 320, the daily average of inmates, shews the expense of each prisoner to be L. 1, 16s. lid. per annum, 2s. lOd. per month, or about 8^d. weekly. This distinguished establishment, so creditable to the city and county, while inferior to no prison for discipline and cleanliness, is conspicuous for the economy^ with which it is managed. The bare * The following abstract statement of the General Penitentiary at MiUbank, Middlesex, taken from the report of a committee, whereof the Right Hon. Lord Bexley was chairman, (ordered to be printed by the House of Commons on 10th of March 1831 ,) may be contrasted with the foregoing statement of the Glasgow Bride- well. On 31 St December 1830, there were in the Penitentiary 566 prisoners, vii. males, 405; females, 161. GLASGOW, 217 recital of the foregoing facts forms a high pauegyric on the talents and industry of Mr Brebner, the governor. House of Refuge. — During the last thirty years, several attempts have been made in this city to reclaim vagrant boys, but hitherto without effect This arose chiefly from the youths being already confirmed in evil habits, and from the want of an asylum and rigid superintendence. To abate this moral pestilence, a subscription has lately been entered into, which now exceeds L. 10,500, for the erection of a permanent House of Refuge in this city. Four acres of the lands of White-hill have been purchased, and a plan by Mr John Bryce, architect, combining all the recent improvements, has been adopted. To those who, like us, have long witnessed the de- pravity of a class of society to be found in all large manufacturing communities, this announcement must give great satisfaction, and to none more than to the Right Honourable the Lord Justice- Clerk, (Boyle,) who so often from the Bench, in lamenting the number and depravity of young thieves, recommended a house of refuge. The number of orphans, and, what is even worse, the number of children of depraved parents, thrown on the public without any one to take care of them, almost exceeds belief. A great propor- tion of these children are brought up in ignorance, in idleness, and vice, without the fear of God, and very little of man- To prevent those evils in the very young, and to mitigate those in more ad- vanced years, is the benevolent object of the managers of this in- stitution. While the infant and Sunday schools are thrown open to children Eipense of the establishment, to the total amount of expenses incurred between the 1st of January and dlst of December 1830, including the necessary repairs on the building, and the sum of L. 195, Ids. lid. for shoring the boundary wall, and 1*765, 10s. calculated for wages to the prisoners employed in the general service of the establishment, - - - L.20612 7 I^uct three-fourths of L. 765, 10s. allowed for pri- soners* wages, they being paid only one-fourth there- of) and the whole amount of such wages being in- cluded in the above sum of L. 20612, 7s., - 574 8 1 1 Gross expense, - - ■ L.200«)7 18 1 8y three- fourths of earnings of prisoners employed in manufactureitkstimatcd at the usual rate, • - 2197 13 10 Net expense, - - - - L. 17840 4 3 To vfaich add the amount of articles supplied by his Majesty's Stationery Office, 143 2 9 L. 17983 7 Mr Potter Macqucen, M. P. in his pamphlet on prisons, states, that the average expense of a culprit in the Millbank Penitentiary, in the years 1818-19-20-21, was 1^55, 15a. ; and Mr Crawford, in his report to the House of Commons in August 18S4, shews that prisoners in the county gaol of Lincoln cost L. 32 per head. 218 LANARKSHIRE. of this class of society, an asylum in the House of Refuge will be found for those in more advanced years, — where moral and religious instruction will be communicated, and mechanical trades learned, by which, with the fostering care of the managers, while in the asy- lum, and after they leave it, they may become useful members of society. Police. — Till the appointment of a statutory police in 1800, the citizens of Glasgow performed the duties of watching and ward- ing. The buildings in Albion Street are very extensive, and were the first in Scotland erected for the exclusive purpose of police. Of the concerns of the establishment, which is placed under the management of the magistrates, and one commissioner for each of 35 wards chosen by the rate payers, the following is an abstract for 1834: Disburseiitents L. 15,033, 13s. 6^d. The receipts arise from Is. per pound on rents exceeding L. 15, and on lower rents less proportionally. Besides the superintendent, collector, clerk, surveyor, and surgeon, there are 8 heads of departments, 3 lieute- nants, 58 officers, 135 night-watchmen, 8 coal weighers, 21 lamp- lighters, 50 firemen, and 20 supernumeraries ; in all 308 persons on the establishment There are 2050 gas lamps with single jets, and 47 with 3 jets ; in all 2097 lamps. Of this number between 800 and 900 are taken down in the summer months. Bridges. — Bridges are a sort of edifices very difficult to execute, on account of the inconvenience of laying foundations, and wall- ing under water. There are three stone bridges, and one timber bridge over the Clyde at Glasgow, exclusive of Rutherglen stone bridge at Barrowfield in the Barony parish. The original timber bridge over the Clyde having gone into de- cay about the year 1340, Bishop Rae built a stone bridge at Stockwell Street in 1345. The bridge was originally twelve feet wide, and consisted of eight arches. In 1777 an addition of ten feet was made to its breadth, and two of the northmost archesj built up for the purpose of confining the river within narrower bounds. The communication between the city and the south- west parts of Scotland for more than 400 years was by this bridge. In 1820-21, it was greatly improved by the formation of footpaths, suspended on very tasteful iron framings. The bridge as it now stands is 415 feet long, and 34 wide within the railing. The foundation stone of the Jamaica Street Bridge was laid on the 29th of September 1768, by the Right Worshipful Provost George Murdoch, acting provincial grand master mason for Glasgow. GLASGOW. 219 The bridge had seven arches, was 30 feet wide within the parapets, and 500 feet in length. The design was given by Mr William Mylne, architect in Edinburgh, and executed by Mr John Adam. The foundation stone of Hutcheson's Bridge was laid in 1794, by Provost Gilbert Hamilton, near the foot of Salt Market Street, to connect the lands of Hutchesontown with the city. It had five arches, was 406 feet long, and 26 feet wide within the parapets. On the 18th of November 1795, during an uncommonly high flood in the river, it was unfortunately swept away, after the pa- rapets were nearly completed. The foundation stone of a new bridge for Hutchestown was laid on the 18th of August 1829, by the Right Worshipful Robert Dalglish, substitute grand master mason for Glasgow, and precep- tor of the hospital. This bridge is built on the site' of the for- mer one, from a design by Mr Robert Stevenson, civil-engineer ; it b 36 feet wide within the parapets, 406 feet long, and has five arches. Mr John Stedman, contractor. The Timber Bridge at Portland Street, erected in 1832, is 30 feet wide within the railing, has a carriage way and two side pave- ments. It was designed by Mr Robert Stevenson, civil-engineer. Mr William Robertson, contractor. The increase of trade and population in the city and adjacent districts having been such as to render the Jamaica Street or Broomielaw Bridge unfit for its purposes, the trustees resolved to remove it, and to erect in its stead a bridge which would afford more suitable accommodation, such as the increasing population of the neighbouring districts required. Having obtained an act of Parliament, they procured a design from Mr Thomas Telford, ci- vfl-engineer, and contracted with Messrs John Gibb and Son, for building the bridge. It is faced with Aberdeen granite, and has a very gentle acclivity. It is 560 feet long over the newals, and 60 feet wide over the parapets ; it has seven arches, and is wider than any river bridge in the kingdom. To commemorate the rebuilding of this bridge it was resolved that the foundation stone should be laid with masonic honours. Dr Cleland having been requested to act as grand director of the ceremonial, preparations were made on a magnificent scale. Ha- nng procured a commission for the Lord Provost to lay the foun- dation stone, from the Right Worshipful Henry Monteith of Car- stairs, provincial grand-master for Glasgow, the director request- ed the very Reverend Principal Macfarlan to preach the sermon 220 LANARKSHIRE. in the cathedral, the Rev. Dr Macleod of Campsie, to act as grand- chaplain, and Mr Watson, superintendent of police, as grand-mar- shal. In addition to the civic and ecclesiastical authorities of the city, the procession was honoured by the Magistrates of the following burghs, viz. Rutherglen, Irvine, Renfrew, Paisley, Hamilton, Gorbals, Port- Glasgow, Greenock, Pollock- Shaws, Calton, Air- drie, Anderston. Besides the Grand Lodge of Scotland, thirty-two provincial mason lodges attended the procession in all the splen- dour of the craft.* The details of this ceremonial, the most splendid that ever took place in Glasgow, have been preserved in a pamphlet, printed at the expense of the Trustees. Banks. — The Bank of Scotland was established by charter in Edinburgh in 1695, and the following year in Glasgow; but was recalled for want of business in 1697. In 1731, it was again esta- blished in Glasgow, and recalled in 1733, from a similar cause. In 1749, the Ship Bank commenced business. This was the first bank belonging to the city ; and till lately it was called the Old Bank. Since 1749, a number of banks have been established in Glasgow. The Glasgow Arms Bank commenced business about the year 1753, the Thistle Bank in 1761, and the Glasgow Mer- chants' Bank, and Messrs Watson's and Thomson's banking-houses were formed shortly afterwards. The Royal Bank of Scotland, which was established by charter in Edinburgh in 1727, sent a branch to Glasgow in 1783. The Glasgow Banking Company com- • The following is the inscription on a metallic plate deposited in the foundation stone : Broomielaw Bridge, Glasgow. The foundation-stone of a bridge across the Clyde at Jamaica Street, was laid on 29th September I7t>8 ; and to afiurd more suitable accommodation, such as the increas- ing population and trade of the city and adjacent districts required, it was re- moved, and By the favour of Almighty God, the Hon. James Ewing, LL. D. F. R. S. Lord Provost, and one of the Representatives in Parliament for the city, Laid the foundation-stone of this Bridge On the third day of .September Anno Domini m.dccc.xxxhi. iEra of masonry 5833, In the fourth year of the reign of our most Gracious Sovereign William IV. Assisted by the Grand Lodge of Scotland and thirty-two provincial lodges, and by James Cleland. Esq. LL. D. Grand Director of the masonic ceremonial, in presence of the public bodies of the city, and neighbouring districts. Thomas Telford, Esq. F. 11. S. L. and E. Architect for the Bridge; Charles Ather- ton, Esq., resident engineer ; Messrs John Gibb and Son, contractors. Which undertaking may the Supreme Architect of the Universe bless and prosper. GLASGOW. 221 menced operations id 1809, the Glasgow Union Banking Company in 1890, and the Western Bank in 1832. These banks, with the exception of the Arms, Merchants, Thomson's, and Watson's, still continue to do business in Glasgow. There are also in Glas- gow a branch of the British Linen chartered bank, and fourteen branches from provincial banks. Provident Bank. — A provident or savings bank was opened in Gla^ow on the Sd of July 1815, wherein deposits of Is. and up- wards are received, bearing interest at the rate of two and a-half per cent., when the sum amounts to 12s. 8d., and has lain one month in the bank. The following is a statement of the concerns of the bank for 1834. It is open every day for deposits, and twice a-week for payments. Amount of open accounts at the end of the year, - L. 39,861 4 Received from depositors, exclusive of interest allowed during the year, dO>767 3 7 RqMud to depositors, including interest, during ditto, • 30,402 11 Interest allowed to depositors during ditto, - - 964 1 1 10 Fhnn the commencement of the bank on 3d July 1815, to the end of the year 1834, number of accounts opened, - - 24,039 Amount of interest paid to depositors from commencement of the bank, to the end of year 1834, - - . 10,662 18 At the end of the year 1834, open accounts under L. 5, — 1380. It is very gratifying to know, that, during nineteen years, the working-classes in Glasgow have so managed their savings, as to entitle them to L. 10,662, 18s. interest, which, but for this insti- tution, might have been laid out for purposes quite unavailing in the hour of need. The country generally, and the industrious classes particularly, lie under deep obligations to the Rev. Dr Duncan of Ruthwell, the founder of the provident bank scheme. Post'Office. — The arrangements of this office are not surpassed, if indeed equalled, by any out of London. In 1806, when Mr Bannatyne was appointed post-master, the establishment consisted of a post-master, 3 clerks, a stamper, and 6 letter-carriers ; and there were 4 penny post-offices attached to it for the delivery and receipt of letters in the neighbouring district. Receiving-houses in the town for letters to be taken to the post-office had been tried, and had been given up on finding that they were not used. There were two deliveries of letters made daily to every part of the town and suburbs. The Glasgow establishment in 1835 consists of a post-master, 10 clerks, 2 stampers, a superintendent of letter-car- riers, and 19 letter-carriers; and there are 26 penny post-offices, and 9 sub-offices attached to it, for the correspondence of the sur- rounding district. It has 12 receiving-houses distributed in the different parts of the town, the letters put into which are carried 222 LANARKSHIRE. to the post-office, to be made up in the separate lioes of maik, as they are successively dispatched. There are four complete de- liveries of letters now made daily to every part of the town and suburbs ; and an answer may be received the same day to a penny post letter put into the office, or a receiving -house, in time to be sent out with either of the two first deliveries. Post-office revenue of Glasgow at the follouying dates. la 1781, . L. 4^1 4 9 In 1830, . L. 34,978 9 04 1810, 27,598 6 1831, . 85,642 19 5 1815, . 34,784 16 1832, . 86,053 1820, . 31,533 2 3 1833, . 36,481 1825, . 34,190 1 7 1834, . 37,483 3 44 QiMittr ending 5tb April 1834, - L. 9189 6 10 5th July, - 9227 19 5 5th October, 9365 15 24 5th January 1835, - 9700 1 11 Gross revenue for the year, L. 37483 3 44 The number of penny post letters for Glasgow delivery, exclu- sively of those delivered through the 26 out-penny offices, was, from October 1833 to October 1834, 192,491 ; and the amount of the revenue derived from them, L. 802, Os. 1 Id. When it is con- sidered, that, in 1833, the revenue was only L. 1700 more than in 1815, whilst the population had increased in the same period up- wards of 72,000, and the increase of correspondence in a still greater ratio, we are led to believe that the revenue is greatly defrauded by private carrying. Rental and Stamps. — The rental of the city and suburbs in 1834 was L. 539,466. Amount of stamps sold in 1828, L. 91,213; in 1830, L.103,802; in 1834, L. 11 0,930. Water Companies. — Prior to 1804, the city was scantily supplied by twenty-nine public, and a few private wells. In 1806, the Glas- gow Water Company was incorporated, and in 1808 the Cranston Hill Company. From their commencement, till 31st May 1830, the companies had laid out L. 320,244, 10s. Id. on their works, which are now considerably extended. In 1831 there were 38,237 renters of water in the city and suburbs. Rates for 1834: Houses rented under L. 4, 5s. per annum ; ditto L. 4 and under K 5, 6s. ; L. 5 and not above L. 6, 7s. 6d. ; all above L. 6, 6^ per cent., or Is. 3d. per pound'on rental. Public works ; high service, i.e. in the more elevated parts of the city, L. 12, 10s. for 1000 gallons per day ; low service L. 6, ditto ; workmen for drinking, 6d. per head ; founderies Is. per man ; lowest charge for a public work, L. 4. Counting-houses, 5s. to 10s. 6d. ; water-closets in ditto, 5s. to lOs. 6d. ; horses, 4s. ; cows, 3s. 4 GLASGOW. 223 Anunmt of Butcher-Meat^ Bread and Milk, contumed in GUu- gaw. — As the office of Parliamentary Hide Inspector has lately been abolished, the amount of butcher-meat consumed in Glasgow can- not be ascertained with accuracy; we have therefore taken the amount for 1822, from Dr Cleland's folio Statistical Work, when the population was 147,043. BoBocks, 14,566. ATeng^ 28 stones tron/ 407,848, at 78. L. 142,746 16 CUtcs, 8,557, Do. do. at d6s. 15,402 12 Sheep, 57,52C^ Tki. do. 20s. 57,520 Lambs, 68,647, Do. do. 6s. 20,591 2 Sviacb 6^599, Do. do. 20s. 6,539 .L. 242,799 10 Tallov. hides and ofikls, particulars dctatled, 61,179 4 5 Total value of carcases, tallow, hides, &c. L. 303,978 14 5 Bread.— An 1822, there were 64,853 sacks of flour baked in the dtj and stUinrbs, equal to 5,317,996 quartern loaves, which at 8d.b - - - - - 177,266 10 8 WiQc In 1822, there were 1230 cows, each cow through the jear supposed to produce on an average 6 Scotch pints of milk daily, equal to 2,693,700 pints of 105 cubic inches, in the year, at 6d. per pint, is - - - - 67,342 10 L. 548,587 15 1 For increased oonsumpt from 1822 to 1835, supi>osc 15 per cent. 82,288 3 3 Supposed value of butcher-meat, bread and milk in 1835, L. 630,875 18 4 Public Green, — There is probably no town of equal extent in the empire which can boast of such a park as the Green of Glas- gow, whether we consider its extent, its use to the inhabitants in its walks, its wells, and its trees, or its picturesque effect on the bank of a beautiful river. The sheep park at the bottom, and the ride and drive of two and a-half miles, give an air of grandeur to the whole. The Green contains 136 imperial acres, and there is grass growing on it now, where grass never grew before. The pre- sent state of this splendid park forms a great contrast with what it was before its improvements were intrusted to Dr Cleland. Twen- ty years ago, the surface of the Low Green was inundated by every swell in the river. The Calton Green was separated from the High Green by the Camlachie Burn, and the High Green from Provost's Haugh by a deep gott or ditch, from which issued nume- rous springs, all of which are now contained in spacious tunnels. The Calton Green and the Haugh were so much destroyed by powerful springs, that, even with the assistance of open drains, the Green was so soft, as frequently to prevent walking on it even in the greatest drought, while in soft weather it was utterly impassable. * A Glacgow tron stone contained 16 lbs. of 224 ounces. Meat is now sold by the imperial stone of 14 lbs. of 1 6 ounces. 224 LANARKSHIRE. The Camlachie Burn, which was formed into a dam for moving ma- chinery to raise water from the river for the use of the washing- house then opposite to Charlotte Street, being frequently stagnant in the summer months, became very offensive. At that period the only entries to the Green from the west were by crooked lanes from the Salt Market Street and the slaughter-house. At the bottom of the Green, now the site of the public offices, the corporation of skinners had a triple range of tan-pits supplied by filthy water from the Molendinar Burn, which ran open in the middle of a narrow street, and the slaughter-house was placed immediately to the west of the tan-pits on the bank of the river, now East Clyde Street, The dung of the slaughter-house, and the intestines of slaughter- ed animals were collected in heaps, and allowed to remain for months, long after putrefaction had taken place. A glue-work and a manufactory of therm from the intestines of animals recently slaughtered ; and rees fitted up for the retail of coals and culm, — completed the nuisance. The bank of the river, east from the Stock well Street Bridge was used by the police as a receptacle for the filth of the streets. Coal in the Green, — Unsuccessful attempts having been made from time to time to find coal in the lands belonging to the cor- poration, Dr Cleland procured permission to make the experiment of boring in the green. He began by erecting a temporary building, into which none were admitted but two operatives and occasionally a mining engineer. The operation of boring commenced on 18th December 1821, and ended on 17th September 1822, — the chis- el during that period having gone through various strata to the depth of 366 feet 1 inch, including various seams of coal. A re- gular daily journal of these operations he embodied in a report, ac- companied with folio engraved plans and sections exhibitingr the extent of the coal field, and the thickness of seven seams found in the bore, viz. mossdale, rough ell, rough main, humph, splint ell, splint main, and sour-milk, containing in whole about 1,500,000 tons; so that if the output was restricted to 15,000 tons annually, the coal field in the Glasgow Green would last 100 years. Although Dr Cleland has shown, and eminent mining engineers have subse- quently certified, that the corporation of Glasgow is possessed of this valuable property, we have no desire in the present state of the funds, to see the beautiful green cut up even with a single coal-pit. It appears from the Rev. Mr Bowers' account of Old Monkland in the former Statistical Account of Scotland, that, in 1792, Mr GLASGOW. 225 Hamilton erected the first steam engine in Scotland at Barrachine for drawing up coals from a pit. Mr Dixon's " Fire- Work" coal pit takes its name from its being the first of the Glasgow pits where coal was drawn up by fire or steam. * That the citizens of Glasgow have ever been loyal, patriotic^ and generous, may be collected from the foregoing brief account of the city. When the country was sufiering under civil war they raised an armed force in defence of their civil and religious liber- ties, and when menaced by the enemies of their country, they stood nobly forward in its defence. In times of local distress their liber- aKty knows no bounds, and their support of religious and benevo- lent institutions has never been surpassed in any community. That the citizens of Glasgow have done honour to departed worth, re- ference is made to the statues and monuments erected in their city, and that their gratitude is not confined to the dead will be shewn from the following splendid acts : Mr James Dennistoun, of Golf hill, one of his Majesty's Deputy- lieutenants for the county of Lanark, manager and principal part- ner of the Glasgow Banking Company, retired from business in 1829. On that occasion a number of the principal inhabitants of the city and neighbourhood, taking into consideration the high character which Mr Dennistoun bore in the community, and the estimation in which he was held by all classes, resolved to request his acceptance of a public dinner as a mark of their esteem and regard. Mr Dennistoun having accepted the profered compli- ment, the dinner was given in the great hall of the Royal Ex- change Buildings on 2d December 1829. The Honourable Alex- ander Garden of Croy, Lord Provost in the Chair, Samuel Hun- ter, Esquire, Croupier, and thirty-six gentlemen of the first re- spectability acted as Stewards. Long before the chair was taken upwards of four hundred gentlemen had taken their places, f * It is a curious fact, which we bclieye is not generally known, that, previous to the year 1776, all colliers and other persons employed in coal works in Scotland, ''ere, by the common law of the land, in a state of slavery. Tlicy and their wives sod children, if they had assisted for a certain period at a coal work, became the pro- perty of the coal master, and were transferable with the coal work, in the same man- ner as the slaves on a West Indian estate were till lately held to be property, and transferred on a sale of the estate. Besides the law founded on the usage of the country and decisions of the courts, sundry Scotch statutes were enacted for regulat- ing this description of slavery. t At six o*clock the Lord Provost entered the hall, accompanied by Mr Dennis- toun, Sir John Maxwell of Polloc, Bart., Mr Campbell of Blythswood, M. P., Mr 226 LANARKSHIRE. The company, which was most respectable, was composed of all political parties. As the festivial was given in honour of the pri- vate virtues of a most excellent man, politics were excluded. The object in view, the respectability of the company, the talent dis- played in the speeches, and the sumptuousness of the entertain- ment, were never surpassed in this city.* A number of the inhabitants of Glasgow, " taking into their con- sideration that Dr Cleland, who had recently retired from pub- lic life, had discharged the arduous duties of an important office for upwards of twenty years, with honour to himself and great be- nefit to the community," called a public meeting, which was held on the 7th August 1834, when it was unanimously resolved that some mark of public approbation should be given to him. Ac- cordingly, the magnificent sum of L. 4603, 6s. was subscribed in a few weeks by 285 individuals of all grades of society, from his Grace the chief of the Scottish nobility to the industrious artisan. The committee of subscribers are now erecting an ornamental build- ing in Buchanan Street, which is to be handed down as an heir- loom in the family of him on whom they have conferred the dis- tinguished and unprecedented honour. The building is designated " The Cleland Testimonial." Maxwell, Younger of Polloc, M. P., Mr Robinson, Sheriff of the county, Mr Mon- teith of Carstairs, Mr Finlay of Castletoward, Mr Ewing of Levenside, Mr Camp- bell of Ballimore, Mr Dalglish, preceptor of Hutchison's Hospital, the Very Reve- rend Principal Macfarlan, the Reverend Professor Macgill, the Reverend Profesaor Chalmers, Mr Dennistoun of Dcnnistoun, Mr Fergus of Slrathorn, Mr Stirling of Kenmure, Mr Houldsworth of Cranstonhill, Mr Buchanan of Dowanhill, Mr Smith of Car beth- Guthrie, Mr Dunn of Dui^tocher, Mr Alston of Auchinraich, Mr Mae- farlan of Kirkton, Mr Kincaid of Kincaid, &c. &c. * The speech of the Lord Provost, in proposing the toast of the day, was distin- guished for fine feeling and graceful delivery, and the writer cannot resist the oppor- tunity to add the following part of it. Afler some introductory rempxks his Lord- ship said, << We are assembled this evening to pay a tribute to the excellence of the character of the guest on my right, and certainly I hazard nothing when I say, that never was tribute more rightly deserved, or more sincerely offered, for the manifes- tation of our admiration of such genuine worth is alike due to him, and honourable to ourselves. Johnson said of Burke, that no one could by chance take shelter with him in a shed to shun a shower, without perceiving that he was a great man. Now it may be said of Mr Dennistoun with truth, that no one could meet him, however trivial the occasion, without perceiving that he was a good man. But I am well aware, Gentlemen, that you all know the estimable qualities for which our friend is so much beloved ; that you all know his warmth of heart, his social kindness, his unassuming, but manly manner, his liberality in business, and his generosity in friendship : and I feel most confident, that I speak not only the sentiments of every one present, but af every one who has the good fortune to know Mr Dennistoun, when I assert, that, if ever a man possessed the full and undivided esteem and respect of society during a long period of active usefulness, it was Mr Dennistoun, and if ever a man carried with him to the great enjo3rments of domestic life, the affectionate good wishes of all» it was Mr Dennistoun ; and. Gentlemen, I shall only add, because it is to the honour of humanity, that I do believe Mr Dennistoun is without an enemy." GLASGOW. 227 Miscellaneous Observations. Attract view of the State ofSociett/ in Glasgow at various periods. From 1500 to 1550. — Prior to this time the inhabitants of this city and neighbourhood were governed by churchmen, who kept them in such a state of ignorance and superstition as was truly de- plorable. Towards the end of this period the principles of the Uxorious Reformation began to be acknowledged, when it pleased God to raise up powerful agents in Edinburgh and Glasgow in the persons of Knox and Melville. Froml550 to 1600. — During this period the Reformation took place. The great body of the people, however, still retained their fierce and sanguinary disposition. This is strikingly marked in their being constantly armed. Even their ministers were accoutred in the pdpit. The number of murders, cases of incest, and other crimi- oal acts which were turned over to the censures of the church, but too plainly point out the depraved character of the people. From 1600 to ]650. — The distinguishing character of the people during this division of time is marked by a certain malignity of disposition. Their belief in and treatment of witches, second- sight, &c afford strong symptoms of superstition grounded on ig- Dorance ; and the profanation of the Sabbath, by working and riot- ing CD that day, displays gross profanity. From 1650 to 1700. — During the beginning of this period and the end of the former, the people, who had become more civiliz- ed, and paid more attention to moral and religious duties, were dreadfully harassed and persecuted by an intolerant government, who seemed determined to enforce a form of religion which was bimical to the people. The abdication of James XL, and with him the exclusion of the Stuart family, brought about the happy Revolu- tion, which put au end to the religious troubles. The union with England, which took place soon after this period, opened up a spirit for trade hitherto unknown in this city, and the increase of population is truly astonishing. In 1774, at the induction of the Rev. Dr Burns, the Barony parish did not con- tain 8000 souls, — its population now amounts to 85,385. This venerable and justly respected minister, (who it is believed is now the father of the Church of Scotland, ) has exercised the ministerial functions in the Barony parish for a period of sixty-five years, viz. four years as assistant to Mr Laurence Hill, and sixty-one as the mi- nister of the largest parish in Scotland. Dr Burns has served a cure for a longer period than has fallen to the lot of any Presbyterian or 228 LANARKSHIRE. Episcopalian clergyman in this city since the Reformation in 1560, and there has been no Roman Catholic bishop or archbishop since the renovation of the see in 1 129, who held his office for such a length of time. This is a proof of good health and a sound con- stitution. But, what is of more importance to his parishioners, he unites evangelical principles with the meekness of a true Christian. His popularity, which increased through a prolonged life, was that which arises from a faithful discharge of duty. About two years ago (then in his ninetieth year) he retired from the more active duties of his station. In 1829 the Crown appointed Dr Black to be his assistant and successor, — an appointment which gave entire satisfaction to the minister and the parishioners. " At the commencement of the eighteenth century, and during the greater part of the first half of it, the habits and style of living of the citizens of Glasgow were of a moderate and frugal cast The dwelling-houses of the highest class of citizens in general contain- ed only one public room, a dining room, and even that was used only when they had company, — the family at other times usually eating in a bed-room. The great-grandfathers and great-grandmothers of many of the present luxurious aristocracy of Glasgow, and who. were themselves descendants of a preceding line of burgher patri- cians, lived in this simple manner. They had occasionally their relations dining with them, and gave them a few plain dishes, put on the table at once, holding in derision the attention, which they said, their neighbours, the English, bestowed on what they ate. After dinner the husband went to his place of business, and, in the evening, to a club in a public-house, where, with little expense, he enjoyed himself till nine o'clock, at which hour the party uni- formly broke up, and the husbands went home to their families. " The wife gave tea at home in her own bed-room, receiving there the visits of her " cummers," (female acquaintances,) and a great deal of intercourse of this kind was kept up, the gentlemen seldom making their appearance at these parties. This meal was term- ed the ^^ four hours,^* Families occasionally supped with one an- other, and the form of the invitation, and which was used to a late period, will give some idea of the unpretending nature of these re- pasts. The party asked was invited to eat an egg with the enter- tainer, and when it was wished to say that such a one was not of their society, the expression used was, that he had never cracked a hen's heg in their house. This race of burghers living in this manner had, from time to time, connected themselves with the 3 GLASGOW. 229 first fiunilies in the country. Intermarriages with the neighbour* iog gentry had been frequent in the preceding century; and early in thisi Robert Bogle, and Peter Murdoch, married daughters of Sir Michael Stewart of Blackball, and Peter Bogle married a daughter of the Viscount of Gamock. The people were in ge- Beral religious, and particularly strict in their observance of the Sabbath, — some of them, indeed, to an extent that was considered by others to be extravagant. There were families who did not iweep or dust the house, did not make the beds, or allow any food to be cooked or dressed on Sunday. There were some who opened ooiy as much of the shutters of their windows as would serve to enable the inmates to move up and down, or an individual to sit at the opening to read. *^ hifluenced by this regard for the Sabbath, the magistrates em* ployed persons termed ' compurgators,' to perambulate the city on the Saturday nights ; and when, at the approach of twelve o'dock, these inquisitors happened to hear any noisy conviviality going on, even in a private dwelling-house, they entered it, and disQiissed the company. Another office of these compurgators was to perambulate the streets and public walks, during the time of iinne service on Sunday, and to order every person they met ^road, not on necessary duty, to go home, and if they refused to obey, to take them into custody. ** Theemployment of these compurgators was continued till about the middle of the century, when, taking Mr Peter Blackburn (fa- ther of Mr Blackburn of Killearn,) into custody for walking on Sunday in the Green, he prosecuted the magistrates for an unwar- nuited exercise of authority, and prevailing in his suit in the Court of Session, the attempt to compel this observance was abandoned. " The wealth introduced into the community after the union, opening the British Colonies to the Scotch, gradually led to a change of the habits and style of living of the citizens. About the year 1735, several individuals built houses, to be occupied wlely by themselves, in place of dwelling on a floor, entering from a common stair, as they hitherto had done. This change, how- ler, proceeded very slowly, and up to the year 1755 to 1760, very few of these single houses had been built, — the greater part of the roost wealthy inhabitants continuing to a much later period to oc- cupy floors, in very many cases containing only one public room. " After the year 1740, the intercourse of society was by evening parties, never exceeding twelve or fourteen persons, invited to tea LANARK. Q 230 LANARKSHIRE. and supper. They met at four, and after tea played cards till nine, when they supped. Their games were whist and quadrille. The gentlemen attended these parties, and did not go away with the ladies after supper, but continued to sit with the landlord, drinking punch, to a very late hour. The gentlemen frequently had dinner parties in their own houses, but it was not till a much later period that the great business of visiting was attempted to be carried on by dinner parties. The guests at these earlier dinner parties were generally asked by the entertainer, upon 'Change, from which they accompanied him, at same time sending a message to their own houses, that they were not to dine at home. The late Mr Cunningham of Lainshaw, meeting the Earl of Glencaim at the Cross in this way, asked him to take pot-luck with him, and having sent immediate notice to his wife of the guest invited, en- tertained him with a most ample dinner. Some conversation tak- ing place about the difference between dinners in Glasgow and Edinburgh, Lord Glencaim observed, that the only difference he knew of was, that in Glasgow the dinner was at sight, while in Edinburgh it was at fourteen days date. These dinner parties usually terminated with hard drinking, and gentlemen, in a state of intoxication, were in consequence to be met with at most even- ing parties, and in all public places. " The dinner hour about the year 1770 was two o'clock: imme- diately after that, it came to three o'clock, and gradually became kter and later, till about 1818 it reached six o'clock. The first instance of a dinner of two courses in the neighbourhood of Glas- gow was about the year 1786. Mrs Andrew Stirling of Drumpel- lier, who made this change in the economy of the table, justified herself against the charge of introducing a more extravagant style of living, by saying, that she had put no more dishes on her table than before, but had merely divided her dinner, in place of intro- ducing her additional dishes in removes. " Up to the middle of the century, commercial concerns, whether for manufactures or foreign trades, were in general carried on by what might be termed Joint Stock Companies of credit : six or eight responsible individuals having formed themselves into a company, advanced each into the concern a few hundred pounds, and bor- rowed on the personal bonds of the company whatever farther ca- pital was required for the undertaking. It was not till commer- cial capital, at a later period, had grown up in the country, that GLASGOW. 231 1 individuals, or even companies trading extensively on their ov^n capital were to be found. " The first adventure which went from Glasgow to Virginia, after the trade had been opened to the Scotch by the union, was sent (Nrt mider the sole charge of the captain of the vessel, acting also as supercargo. This person, although a shrewd man, knew nothing of accounts; and when he was asked by his employers, on his re- turn for a statement of how the adventure had turned out, told them he could give them none, but there were its proceeds, and threw down upon the table a large ' hoggar ' (stocking) stuffed to the top with coin. The adventure had been a profitable one ; and the company conceived that if an uneducated, untrained per- son had l)een so successful, their gains would have been still great- er had a person versed in accounts been sent out with it. Under this impression, they immediately dispatched a second adventure, with a supercargo, highly recommended for a knowledge of accounts, who produced to them on his return a beautifully made out state- ment of his transactions, but no ' hoggar.' " The Virginia trade continued for a considerable time to be car- ried on by companies formed as has been described. One of the partners acted as manager : the others did not interfere. The transactions consisted in purchasing goods for the shipments made twice a-year, and making sales of the tobacco which they re- ceived in return. The goods were bought upon twelvemonths credit, and when a shipment came to be paid off, the manager sent notice to the different furnishers, to meet him on such a day, at such a wine-shop, with their accounts discharged. They then re- ceived the payment of their accounts, and along with it a glass of wine each, for which they paid. This curious mode of paying off these shipments was contrived with a view to furnish aid to some well born young woman whose parents had fallen into bad circumstances, and whom it was customary to place in one of those shops, in the same way that, at an after period, such a person would have been put into a milliner's shop. These wine-shops were opposite to the Tontine Exchange, and no business was tran- sacted but in one of them." * " We are indebted to the Scrap -Book of Mr Dugald Bannatyne for the above part of tbii abstract included in inverted commas. There arc few individuals in any town who have been so very generally useful as Mr Bannatyne. For more than half a century he hat devoted a great proportion of his valuable time and talents in promoting the mer- caotiieaDd manufiicturing interests of this city, and his long and friendly intimacy with his near relative Dugald Stewart gave him a taste for literature which has greatly be- nefited his country. When the Chamber of Commerce and Manufactures in this city 232 LANARKSHIRE. Prior to the breaking out of the American war, the <' Virginians," who were looked up to as the Glasgow aristocracy, had a privileged walk at the Cross, which they trod in long scarlet cloaks and bushy wigs ; and such was the state of society, that, when any of the most respectable master tradesmen of the^city had occasion to speak to a tobacco lord, he required to walk on the other side of the street till he was fortunate enough to meet his eye, for it would have been presumption to have made up to him. Such was the practice of the Cunninghams, the Spiers, the Glassfords, the Dunmores, and others ; and from this servility the Langs, the Ferries, the Clay- tons, and others who were at the head of their professions, and had done much to improve the mechanical trade of the city, were not ex- empt. About this period, profane swearing among the higher classes of citizens was considered a gentlemanly qualification; and dissipa- tion at entertainments was dignified with the appellation of bospv- tality and friendship ; and he who did not send his guests from his house in a state of intoxication was considered unfit to entertain genteel company. Latterly, the rising generation of the middle class, better educated than their fathers, engaged extensively in trade and commerce ; and by honourable dealing and correct con- duct, procured a name and a place in society which had been hi- therto reserved for the higher grades. Since the opening of the public cofiee-room in 1781, the absurd distinction of rank in a ma- nufacturing town has disappeared. Wealth is not now the crite- rion of respect, for persons even in the inferior walks of life, who conduct themselves with propriety, have a higher place assigned them in society than at any former period of the history of the city. Families, as has been already said, who were formerly content to live in the flat of a house in the Old, have now princely self-contained houses in the New Town. Entertainments are now given more fre- quently, and the mode of giving them is materially changed. Persons who formerly gave supper parties and a bowl of punch, are now in the way of giving sumptuous dinners, entertaining with the choicest wines, and finishing with cold punch, for which Glasgow is so celebrated. The value of the table-service, and the style of furniture in the houses of many of the Glasgow merchants, are inferior to none in the land. In drinking there is a mighty improvement : formerly, was instituted in 1783, under the auspices of Mr Patrick Colquhoun, at that time Lord ProTOst, and a public-spirited and distinguished merchant in Glasgow, Mr Bannatyne rendered his assistance, and has held the office of secretary ever since Mr Gilbert Ha- milton's death in 1809. The original members of the chamlier are now all dead, with the exception of its able and much respected secretary. CLASGOW. 233 the guests had to drink in quantity and quality as presented by thdr hosts ; now every person drinks what he pleases, and how he pleases, — after which he retires to the drawing-room, and drunken- ness and dissipation at dinner parties are happily unknown. Pro- fiine swearing is considered highly reprehensible ; so much so that iwearing in good society is never heard. The working-classes are better lodged, clothed, and fed, than formerly ; and since the for- mation of the Water Companies, they are more cleanly in their houses, and healthy in their persons. With the exception of Hutchison's Hospital, the Town's Hos- pital, the incorporations, and a few societies, our numerous chari- table and benevolent institutions, and the whole of our religous in- fltitations, have been got up during the last forty years. Since 1791, when the former Statistical Account of Scotland made its appearance, the Bible and Missionary Societies, and the City and Parochial Missions, have been called into existence. These and smilar institutions bid fair for improving the morals of the most vorthless of our population. The inhabitants of this city are justly characterized as charitable and humane ; and on all proper occa- tbns the feeling of compassion and of active benevolence is never wanting. Though this be the general, it is, however, by no means the universal character of the population, for there are many per- sons among us who live as if they existed only for themselves, and desired to know nothing but what may be conducive to their own private advantage. Persons who are placed in circumstances above the labouring artisan may be classed into three divisons. The first in order, but last in respect, are those who, though wealthy, or at least in easy circumstances, lend a deaf ear to the tale of woe, and neither contribute their time nor their means to the relief of the wretched. The second are those who give none of their time to the public, and whose charities are in a manner extorted through the influence rf respectable applicants or the force of public opinion. Than this class, who may be considered the drones of society, there are none more ready to find fault with the administrators of the ge- neral concerns of the city, and none more anxious to grasp at that patronage which so justly belongs to those who give so much of their valuable time to the community without fee or reward. The third class are those who voluntarily contribute their time and money to the service of the community in the various depart- ments of usefulness. Through the providence of God, this class 234 LANARKSHIRE. of late years has greatly increased in number, respectability of char racter, and worldly estate, which, when taken in connection with other circumstances, have tended greatly to the increase of reli- gion, morality, and*active benevolence. The spirit which actuates the benevolence of Glasgow is ever present in times of difficulty. The knowledge of this important fact should tend greatly to pre- vent discontent in the minds of the indigent, and mitigate their sufferings in times of distress. Since the commencement of the present century, Glasgow has greatly increased in scientific knowledge, and many of her citizens have rendered essential service to their country. The fourth meeting of the British Association for the Advance- ment of Science, held in Edinburgh from the 8th to the 15th Sep- tember 1834, consisted of a number of persons, from all countries, many of them the most distinguished in Europe for scientific ac^ quirements. While a considerable number of the citizens of Glas- gow were admitted members of the Association, the following were elected office-bearers, viz. Secretary to the Chemistry and Mi- neralogy Section, Thomas Thomson, M. D., F. R. S., Professor of Chemistry in the University of Glasgow. — Members of Commit- tee, Charles Macintosh, F. R. S. and Charles Tennant, M. H. S. S. — Member of Committee in the Natural History Section, Wil- liam Jackson Hooker, LL. D., F. R. S., Professor of Botany in the University of Glasgow. — Secretary to the Statistical Section, James Cleland, LL. D. The following very valuable paper, drawn up by Principal Mac- farlan, came too late to be inserted in its proper place in this article : and though a very small part of it has been anticipated, our readers may be gratified to receive it entire. " The origin of the name Glasgow is like that of most other places, involved in uncertainty, and it would be useless to repeat the fantastic conjectures of antiquarians and etymologists, with re- gard to its meaning. Perhaps the most probable conjecture is that which derives it from the level green on the banks of the river, for many ages its greatest ornament. Glas-achadh in Gaelic, pro- nounced Glassauffhf or with a slight vocal sound at the termina- tion Glassaughu^ signifies the green field, or alluvial plain, and is strictly descriptive of the spot in question. The name of the town, as ordinarily pronounced by Highlanders, corresponds closely to GLASGOW. 235 this derivation. In ancient British, Glasgow has the same mean- ing, and it is applied to other places, having a similar locality in other parts of Scotland "The origin of this city is lost in the obscurity of the middle ages. At the Roman invasion, the part of Scotland in which it lies was fflhabited by a British tribe called by that invading people the Damnii, and was mostly included within their province of Valentia. On the retirement of the Romans, the provincials were left to their own resources, and their previous peaceful habits changed into a state of constant warfare in defence of their territories against, first, the inroads of the Northern Caledonians or Picts, then the inva- ibn of the encroaching Saxons from the east, and latterly the as- saults of the martial Scots, who, emigrating from Ireland, settled in the districts now called Argyleshire and Galloway. With all these invaders they maintained a precarious conflict during a pe- riod of four centuries. From the researches of modern historians it appears highly probable that Alpine, the last King of the Scots, as a separate people, lost his life in combat with Strathclyde Bri- tons, near Dalmellington in Ayrshire, and not, as more generally re- ported, contending for the Pictish crown in the eastermost district of Scotland. About the middle of the sixth century, Kentigern, or, as his name appears in the ancient Welsh narratives, Cyndeyrn Garthys, makes a figure in their history as a distinguished eccle- siastic. He is associated as archbishop with the celebrated Ar- thur, then Sovereign Prince. His Episcopal seat is said by the same authority to have been established at Penrynrioneth, which was also the seat of the monarchy, and seems to have occupied nearly the present site of Dumbarton. Kentigern, from his pious, benevolent, and amiable character, seems to have acquired the ap- pellation of Mungo, used in several languages as an epithet of fondness and endearment. The conduct of Marken, the successor of Arthur, in insulting and banishing the Saint, was believed to be avenged by his premature death. The surnalne of Bountiful, bestowed on the next Prince Hyderick or Roderick, seems to have J)een acquired by his favour to Kentigern, to recall whom from ba- nishment was one of the first acts of his government. It has been reported by tradition, that the space now occupied by Glasgow had been previously covered by an extensive forest, within the recesses of which were celebrated the religious rites of the Druids. It is well known that the first teachers of Christianity generally esta- blished their churches on the spots which had, in the estimation of 236 LANARKSHIRE. the people, been previously hallowed by the habitual performanGe of their devotions. It is probable that Kentigem, following this prin- ciple, founded his church here on the vestiges of the Druidical circle. This took place, as is commonly reported, about the year 560, and he died in 601, leaving the infant town which had begun to spring up under the shadow of that stately church, the founda- tion of which he is said to have laid, and where at his death he was interred, under his paternal benediction. According to Spottis- wood, he was the pupil of St Sevirinus Bishop of Orkney, was dis- tinguished by the strict performance of all that were considered pious and meritorious exercises, and lived to a very great age. Af- ter his death, his memory appears to have been held in high vene- ration, and in many parts of Scotland there were religious houses which, as well as his own extensive see, claimed the patronage of his name and the benefit of his prayers. This account of the origia of Glasgow, drawn from unvarying tradition, and confirmed by no- tices scattered in contemporary chronicles, derives additional con- firmation from the armorial bearings of the see. These are de- scribed in Edmonstone's Heraldry, as follows : Argent a tree, grow- ing out of a mountain base, surmounted by a salmon in fesse, all proper ; in the salmon's mouth an amulet, or ; on the dexter sidei a bell pendent to the tree, of the second. Discarding the monkish fables respecting the origin of each separate part of this cognizance» we may conclude with little danger of mistake, that the tree refer- red to the ancient forest which surrounded the cathedral, the bell to the cathedral itself, the rins^ to the Episcopal office, and the fish to the scaly treasures poured by the beautiful river below at the feet of the venerated metropolitan. " During 500 years the history of Glasgow presents an entire blank; but the existence and the importance of the see during that period, is demonstrated by the inquisition made in 1115, by David then Prince of Cumberland, and afterwards King of Scotland, into the lands and tithes previously belonging to the church of Glasgow. These appear from that document to have been of great number and extent, embracing a multitude of parishes in the southern and western districts of Scotland. This fact sufficiently shows that, during the period in which no tra- ces of its history can be found, the cathedral not only existed but was largely endowed. It may, however, have suffered many vicissitudes and even occasional demolition amidst the disasters of the kingdom of Strathclyde, the bloody contests of the Scottish GLASGOW. 237 prinees, and the fearful devastations of the north-men. In the begimuDg of the twelfth century, when the connection of the Scot- tish sovereigns with the Saxon and Norman kings of England give stability to their authority and comparative tranquillity to their dominions, the church was revived, and the Episcopate reinstated. Jobo Achaius, originally chaplain to David L, and afterwards High Qnnoellor of the kingdom, was consecrated Bishop at Rome in 1115, and the restored revenue was speedily employed by him in restoring the dilapidated fabric of the cathedral. His labours to duB end are said to have been completed, and the renovated pile to have been consecrated in lldd. It is not certain whether that edifice had been, as was generally the case, erected at first on a pirtial and limited scale, or whether it was in one of the succeed- ing reigns, as is inferred from a charter for its reconstruction, de- stroyed by fire, but it is clear that the greater and by far the more splendid part of the fabric that still exists was built under the di- lution of Joceline, who became bishop in 1174, and that the choir vas consecrated by him in 1197. During the same reign, (that of William I. or the Lion,) a charter was granted, erecting Glasgow into a royal burgh, in favour of the pious and holy Saints Kentigernus and Jocelineus and their successors. And for many ages this burgh existed under the auspices of the successive bishops. Innumerable circumstances, indeed, mark its ecclesiastical origin. Bishop Turn** bull, in 1451, founded the still existing university; and the growing importance of the town was obviously owing to the assemblage of ecclesiastics, many of them of great power and opulence, around the archiepiscopal residence. To this rank the see was elevated daring the episcopacy of Bishop Blackadder, near the end of the fifteenth century. Bishop Cameron in 1435 enjoined his prebends, thirty-two in number, to erect houses for themselves in the vicinity of the cathedral, and always to reside there. As the city extend- ed, religious houses were multiplied. A collegiate church, to which the original name of St Mary's has been lately restored, was founded in the Trongate, and governed by a provost and eight pre- bends. A convent of Black Friars was established on the east, and one of Gray Friars on the west side of the High Street. The church of the former, rebuilt in 1699, still exists as one of the city churches, and their grounds are believed to have formed the ori- ginal part of the college gardens. Many chapels crowded the city and the suburbs, the names of most of which are now forgotten, and their revenues have disappeared. The University, as has been 238 LANARKSHIRE. already mentioned, was founded by Bishop TurnbuU under the authority of a bull issued by Pope Nicholas V. dated 7th January 1451. It formed a corporate body, consisting of a Chancellor, Rec- tor, and Dean, with Doctors, Masters, Regents, and students in the several faculties into which it was divided. One of these was known as the psedegogium, or College of Arts. In 1459, James Lord Hamilton bequeathed to the principal regent of that College some buildings and several acres of land, on part of which the present College was afterwards erected. The College of Arts was restored and endowed by King James VI., in 1577, and its property has since been augmented from various sources. It is governed by the meet- ing of Faculty, or College meeting, consisting of the Principal and the Professors who originally belonged to, or have since been received into its body. This meeting exercises the administration of the whole revenue and property of the College, the patronage of eight professorships, and the presentation of the parish of Grovan. They also administer discipline, either as a body, or through a part of their number called the Jurisdictio Ordinaria^ amongst the College students. The University is governed by the Senate, con- sisting of the Rector, the Dean, and all the Professors, whether belonging to the College or not. Meetings of this body are held for the election and admission of the Chancellor and Dean of Fa- culty; for the admission of the Vice- Chancellor and Vice- Rector; for electing a Representative to the General Assembly ; for regu- lating and conferring degrees ; for the management of the libraries; and for all other business belonging to the University. In the Comitia, where, besides the members of senate, all matriculated students have a place, the Rector is elected and admitted to his office, public disputations are heard, inaugural discourses are de- livered, the laws of the University are promulgated, and prizes for merit distributed annually." Addenda. A Jews synagogue was opened in this city in September 1820. Mr Moses Lisneihm is their priest, Hebrew teacher, killer, inspec- tor, marker, and sealer. It appears from a report of a Select Committee of the House of Commons in 1828, that in London the office of priest and killer merges in the same person, and that no Jew can use meat unless the animals are slain with a pecuhar knife, and marked with Hebrew seals. The Feast of Tabernacles, which used to be celebrated by the Glasgow Jews in Edinburgh, is now- observed in this citv. GLASGOW. 239 Edward Davies, son of Mr Edward Davies, optician, was the fint that was circumcised in Glasgow. The rite was performed by Mr Michael on 18th July 1824. The Jews resident in Glasgow io 1831 were 47 in number, viz. males, 28, females, 19. Above twenty years of age, 28; below ditto, 19 ; born in the following couQtries, viz. in Prussian Poland, 11 ; in various parts of Ger- many, 12; in Holland, 3; in London, 5; in Sheerness, 10; in Glasgow, 6. The increase since 1831 is but trifling. A burial ground has been made for the seed of Abraham at the north-west comer of the Necropolis. It is separated from the Christians' burying-ground by an ornamental screen, on which are inscribed the beautiful and appropriate words from Byron's Hebrew Melody, beginning, " Oh ! weep for those that wept by Babel's (beam." The community are greatlyindebtedtoMr JamesEvving, LL.D. one of the Members of Parliament for the city, for having project- ed the Necropolis, and to Mr Laurence Hill, LL. B. collector to the Merchants' House, for his unwearied exertions in promoting the interests of this beautiful and romantic cemetery. Tides in the Clyde, — The following is taken from the valuable Tide Tables prepared by the late Dr Heron, Professor of Natural Philosophy in Anderson's University. The tide at Greenock is two hours earlier than at Glasgow. At places situated near the ocean, the tide flows nearly as long as it ebbs. At Greenock it generally flows rather above six hours — but at Glasgow it flows only for five hours, and ebbs about seven ; this, however, is modifi- ed bv the winds. The tide produced by the moon is nearly three times greater than that occasioned by the sun, and the former thus predominat- ing, the interval between the consecutive combined tides is found almost to coincide with the moon's progress in her periodic course. This interval, however, is modified by the distance of the lumi- naries from the earth, their declinations, and other incidental cir- cumstances. At new and full moon, the influence of the sun and moon unit- ed produces the elevation which is called spring tide. PVom these periods, the tides gradually decrease, until the moon arrives at the quadratures, when the high water is only the difference between the lunar and solar tides, and is termed the neap tide. The tides now increase daily, till the following spring tide, when the sequence already noticed recurs. Spring tides, however, do not happen on 240 LANARKSHIRE. the days of full and change, nor neap tides on the day that the moon enters the quarters, but about two days after. The tide-wave rolling northward from the Atlantic Ocean, on its arrival at the British Isles, divides into three branches ; one pro- ceeds up the English channel ; another enters St George's chan- nel, south ; the third flows round the west and north coast of Ire- land, and meets the second branch near the Isle of Man. The tide that flows up the Clyde is derived from the two lat- ter branches ; and it is easy to conceive how it must partake of the irregularities produced on them by the action of high winds, and hence the anomalies that sometimes are observed, when no appa- rent cause is operating on the Clyde itself. Likewise high winds in the Clyde afiect the time and elevation of high water ; and bj considering the form and course of the Frith, it is obvious that a gale from a northerly quarter, by opposing the flow of the tide, will cause the time of high water to be earlier, and the height of the tide to be less than otherwise would be the case, while a gale from an opposite direction, acting in concert with the flowing tide will produce a contrary efiect. Iron Steam^Boat, — Since the part of the article relating to steam-boats went to press, a launch of rather a novel nature has taken place at the Broomielaw Harbour. Messrs Tod and M'Gregor, engineers, constructed a steam-boat, every part of which is of iron excepting the boards of the deck ; and having all her machinery and equipments complete, and her steam up, they placed her on a carriage in their works, from which she was taken on 16th July 1835 to the large crane at the harbour, and being lowered into the river, she immediately proceeded on a trial trip, when she went against a head wind at the rate of eight miles an hour. This pretty little vessel, named the Plata, is 45 feet long from stem to stern, 9 feet on the beam, and 17 feet over the paddle boxes. She draws 22 inches water, and her whole weight is eleven tons when her boilers are filled. She is propelled by two high pressure engines, each of five horse-power — the cylin- ders are 6 J inches diameter placed horizontally — the stroke 2 feet 4 inches. She is kept in motion for five hours with 5 cwt of coals, and has accommodation for twelve cabin, and twenty-five deck pas- sengers. This vessel, built for river navigation in foreign parts, is the property of Mr Robert Jamieson, of the firm of Messrs Jamieson, M^Crackan, and Company. She is to be taken to her destination on the deck of one of the company's ships. GLASGOW. 241 0&/ and New Style. — The dates narrated in this account of the eity prior to 1751 are in the old style, and those which follow that period are in the new. The following explains the cause of the change. Id the year 1751, it was found that, from the year being comput- ed to be rather longer than it really was, it gradually encroached upoD the seasons. It was found that the spring equinox, which at the time of the Greneral Council of Nice in 325, happened on or about the 21st March, in the year 1751, happened about the 9th or 10th, and that the error was still increasing, and would, if not remedied, cause the equinoxes and solstices to fall at very different times of the year from what they had done in time past. An Act of Parliament in 1751 (24th Geo. II. Chap. 23,) was therefore passed, proceeding upon the preamble of the facts now stated, and calculated to correct the error which had crept in, and to prevent the like happening again. Eleven days, therefore, were itnick out of the following year to rectify the error ; and to pre- vent it happening again, the years 1800, 1900, 2100, and every hundredth year, were declared to be common years of 365 days, except 2000, and every four hundredth year, which were made leap years ; thus taking away about three days in four centuries. VmbrellcLs. — In 1782 the late Mr John Jamieson, surgeon, re- luming from Paris, brought an umbrella with him, which was the first in this city. For a number of years, there were few used here, and those were made of glazed cotton cloth. As almost every child at school, mechanic and servant are now provided with an umbrella, there are probably more than 100,000 of them in use in this city. Mode ofEstimatinff Numbers at Field Meetings. — As very erro- neous estimates are frequently made respecting the number of per- sons attending field-meetings, public executions, &c. it may come near the truth to estimate a promiscuous population standing close together at six to a square yard ; thus a park of an imperial acre will contain 29,040 persons, and a Scotch acre 36,624 persons. As Scots money is frequently referred to in the foregoing article, its value in Sterling money is taken from Dr Jamieson's Etymolo- gical Dictionary. Scoli. sterling, Scots. Sterling. A doyt or penny is . L. O^Jj A Merk or 13s. 4d. or two- A bodie or two pennies is Oy*g thirds of a pound is L. 1 1 ^ A pbek,Groat,orfourpencei8 OS^ A pound is 18 A shilling is . . 1 July 1835. PARISH OF NEW MONKLAND, OR EAST MONKLAND. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES BEGG, D. D., MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parishes of Old and New Monkland were formerly one parish, under the general name of Monkland, — a name deriv- ed from the monks of the Abbey of Newbottle, to whom the lands belonged. The parish was divided into two in the year 1640, — the eastern division being named New Monkland, and the western Old Monkland. Boundaries^ Extent — The parish is in the middle ward of La- narkshire, and forms a part of the north boundary of the county. It is nearly ten miles in length from east to west, and seven in breadth near the middle, but narrower at both ends ; bounded on the south by the parishes of Bothwell and Shotts; on the east by those of Torphichen and Slamannan ; on the north by those of Cumbernauld and Kirkintilloch ; and on the west by those of Cadder and Old Monkland. Soil and Climate, — The soil is various. That in the north and west parts of the parish is the best, consisting partly of a strong clay, and partly of a dry soil ; which soils, when properly cultivated, are capable of bearing any kind of crops. The middle and east parts are of a mossy soil, and, in early seasons, yield good crops of oate, flax, potatoes, and rye-grass hay ; but in cold late seasons the oats do not ripen well. There are no hills nor mountains in the pa- rish, though the greater part of it is high. The highest lands are in the middle of the parish, and run the whole length of it from east to west, declining gently on each side to the rivers Calder and Loggie, which are its south and north boundaries. These high lands may be from five to six or seven hundred feet above the level of the sea, and a great part of them are covered with mosses, which in that elevated situation are not capable of improvement, except at a very great expense. NEW MONKLAND. 243 Owing to the elevated situation of the country, the weather is, 00 the whole, rather cold and wet. For a great part of the year the winds are from the west and south-west; but in the months of April, May, and part of June, generally from the east. The severest wea- ther, with heavy falls of snow, is in general from the north-east. The common nervous fever, or typhus fever, seems to be the most prevalent disease. It is very frequently in some part of the parish. Consumptions, inflammations, and rheumatisms, are also frequent. Hydrography. — The large reservoir for supplying the Monkland Canal, and the Forth and Clyde Canal, which covers about 300 acres of land, is partly in this parish, and partly in the parish of Shotts. There is a mineral well near Airdrie, which in former times was much frequented, but is now neglected. The w^ter is strongly impregnated with iron and sulphur. Geolofft/. — This parish, so interesting to the student of geo- logy, affords ample opportunities for studying the relations of the two grand series of rocks, the Neptunian and Plutonian. It is well supplied with whinstone or trap and sandstone. These are found m various places, and arc convenient for building and making roads, &c. The parish also abounds with coal and ironstone of the best quality. In many places, different seams of coal are wrought, such as the ell coal, the pyatshaw, the humph, the main coal, and the splint. These seams are general- ly above the black band of ironstone, and below that there is the Kiltongue coal, and other seams not yet sufficiently explored. In some places the seams are thin, not exceeding two or three feet in thickness ; in other places of the parish, as Moffat, Whiteridge, and Ballochnie, the seams of coal are nine feet thick, of excellent qua- lity, and very valuable. Smithy coal and blind coal are also wrought in some parts of the parish. Many of these coals are carried to Glasgow by the Monkland Canal, and from thence many are car- ried to the Highlands, and to Ireland. Many of them are also carried by the Ballochnie and Kirkintilloch railways to Kirkintil- loch, and from thence by the Forth and Clyde Canal to Edin- burgh. The ironstone is found partly in balls, and partly in seams ; the seams most common are the muscle band and the black band. The black band is by far the most valuable, and is generally found about fourteen fathoms below the splint coal. All the iron-works of Carron, Clyde, Calder, Gartsherrie, and Chapel Hall, are partly supplied with ironstone from this parish. 244 LANARKSHIRE. Limestone is also wrought in some parts of the parish, parti- cularly on the north side of the parish, and at the west end, but not to any very great extent, as the Cumbernauld lime is of excel- lent quality, and generally used in this parish. Where the lands in the parish lie in the vicinity of the canal, or railway, or good roads, the minerals are considered of equal value, sometimes of more value than the surface. On the south side of the parish the metals in general dip to the south or south-west, towards the Clyde; but on the north side of the parish they in general dip to the east and south-east. II. — Civil History. Land'Owners. — The chief land-owners of the parish are, Robert Buchanan, Esq. of Drumpellier ; John Campbell Colquhoun, Esq. of Killermont; Robert Haldane, Esq. of Auchingray; Sir William Alexander of Airdrie- House ; the Honourable William Elphin- stone of Monkland ; Alexander Gerard, Esq. Rochsoles ; Geoige More Nisbct, Esq. Cairnhill; Robert Jamieson, Esq. Ardeo; Thomas Falconer, Esq. Brownieside ; Dr William Clerk of Mof- fat ; Dr James Tenant of Bredinhill ; William Steel, Esq. An- nathill; George Waddel, Esq. Ballochnie; James McLean, Esq. of Medox. There are a great many other heritors in the parish. Few of the largest heritors are resident. Modern Buildings. — The chief mansion-houses are those of Airdrie, Monkland, Rochsoles, Auchingray, &c A very neat town-house has been lately built in Airdrie, con- taining a prison, police-office, and a good town-hall. The Mason- Hall in Airdrie is also a very good room. The foundation of a very large cotton-mill has been newly laid near Airdrie, which, when finished, will employ a great number of people, in teasing, carding, and spinning cotton. III. — Population. The population of the parish has been progressively increasing for a number of years past, both in the country part of the parish and in the town of Airdrie. The return of the population to Dr Webster, in the year 1755, gave 2713. The population at the time of the last Statistical Account, in the year 1792, was 8560. The following table exhibits the progressive increase of the popu- lation. In Airdrw. In country. Total, l^K 2745 1868 4613 1811, 3474 2055 5529 1821, 4800 2502 7362 1831, 0504 3273 9867 NEW MONKLAND. 245 This progressive increase of population has been owing to the coal-works in the parish, and the iron-works in the vicinity, having been greatly extended, and to the weavers of cotton cloth for the Glasgow manufacturers having greatly multiplied, — although at pre- sent they are very ill paid, and have poor wages. In the year 1833, there were in the parish 125 marriages. In the same year there were 238 children born in the parish, and re- gistered ; and 153 deaths, reckoning from the number of mort- doths used. The number of proprietors of land above L, 5^ of yearly rent is 68; there are, besides, a considerable number of smaller proprietors. In Airdrie, there were in 1831, 669 weavers above 20 years of age; 223 coal-heavers, the number of whom is now greatly in- creased ; and 160 ironstone miners, the number of whom is also greatly increased. Character of the People. — In the country part of the parish, the people are in general strong and robust ; but in Airdrie many of the weavers are feeble and small in stature. Both in town and country, the people are in general neat and clean in their dress, particularly on Sabbath when they go to church. The dress of the vomen is perhaps finer than is suitable for their situation in life. Many of the people are intelligent and sober, but some of them are rather fond of litigation. Smuggling, at no great distance of time, prevailed to a certain extent, but has now almost entirely ceased. There have been 52 illegitimate births in the parish during the last three years. IV — Industry. Agriculture, — Some of the land in the north-west corner of the f parish is very good and fertile, and may bring L. 2 or L. 3 per acre of rent yearly ; but the land from the church eastward is not so good, being of a poorer soil, and much in want of shelter, and may vary in yearly value from 10s. to L. 1, 10s. per acre. The rental of the landward part of the parish is about L. 12,000, and of Airdrie about L. 6700. If there were belts of planting running from north to south, at regular distances, to protect from the north-east winds in spring, the advantage would be great. The improvement of the parish is, however, gradually advancing, and many acres of waste land have been ploughed within these twenty years past; but the price of agricultural labour is too high, compared with the very low price of the produce of the land LANARK. R 246 LANARKSHIRE. at present, and if some change does not soon take place, agri- culture must greatly decline, and the poor soils be entirely ne- glected. Several ploughing matches take place in the parish yearly, by which much emulation among the ploughmen is ex- cited, and those who obtain a first or second prize generally after- wards expect, and get higher wages. Much attention is paid to improving the breed of cattle ; and the Ayrshire breed is preferred, and generally prevails in the parish. During the late war, flax brought a good price, and many acres, from 500 to 800, were cul- tirated yearly ; but the price is now so low, that it will not yield a profit to the farmer, and is therefore now little attended to. Rate of Wages. — Common labourers at present receive' 10s. or 12s. per week; but masons, carpenters, slaters, &c. receive 1 6s. or 18s. per week. V. — Parochial Economy. The only market-town in the parish is Airdrie, one of the new Parliamentary burghs, having all the privileges of a royal buigfa, and along with Lanark, Hamilton, Falkirk, and Linlithgow, sending a member to Parliament. Its population still is rapidly increasing. The villages of Coltston, Clerkston, Greengairs, and Kiggend, are also thriving villages. The post-office is in Airdrie, and there is a post twice in the day. Means of Communication. — Tlie turnpike-roads in the parish are the one from Edinburgh to Glasgow by Bathgate and Airdrie, which intersects the south side of the parish, and the new road from Car- lisle to Stirling, which intersects the whole parish from south to north. These roads have afforded a very great facility to the im- provement of the lands in their neighbourhood. The Balochney rail-road, which is in this parish, connects itself with the Kirkin- tilloch rail-road, and the Garnkirk rail-road, for carrying coals to Glasgow, and the Forth and Clyde Canal at Kirkintilloch, from whence they are carried by the canal east to Edinburgh, and west to Greenock and Ireland, — the canal joining the Clyde near Old Kilpatrick. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated about two miles from the west end of the parish, on an eminence, and is seen at a great distance from the west and north-west; it is far from the people in the east end of the parish, some of whom attend other churches more contiguous. The church contains 1200 sittings, and was built in the year 1777, and much repaired in 1817, and is at present in tolerable condition. One-fourth part of the sittings belongs to NEW MONKLAND. 247 the people of Airdrie, vhich is situated about a mile and a-half or two miles from the church. The manse was repaired and en- ]aTged in the year 1819, and is now in a comfortable state. The glebe contains ten Scotch acres of land, but it is of inferior soil. The stipend is 17 chalders, half meal, half barley, paid according to the fiars of the county, besides L. 10 for communion elements. There isacbapel of ease at Airdrie connected with the Established Church, which contains about 650 sittings. The minister's stipend is L.120, raised from the seat-rents. There is another chapel built in Air- drie, fitted to accommodate 1200 sitters. There is also a small cbapel at the village of Clerkston, occupied by a preacher of the Established Church, who preaches on Sabbath, and visits and examines the people in the village and vicinity through the week. The parish church, and these chapels, are in general well attend- ed. The average number of communicants in the parish church is between 1000 and 1100: and those of the Airdrie chapel are about 40O more. There are four Dissenting or Seceding meeting-houses in the parish, two of which belong to the United Secession, one to the Old Light Burghers, and one to the Old Dissenters or Cameron- ians. Some of these meeting-houses are considerably loaded with debt, and some of the ministers are but poorly provided for. Education. — The parish schoolmaster has a dwelling-house and garden, and about L.30 of yearly salary; his emoluments from school fees may amount to L. 30 per annum : and for collecting road-money, &c. he may have other L. 30. Besides the parish school, there are four other schools in the parish, built by sub- scription, viz. at Airdrie, Clerkston, Greengairs, and Coathill. At Clerkston and Greengairs there are also dwelling-houses built for Ae schoolmasters, but none of these have any salary. There are also eight other schools in the parish taught by private teachers, who depend entirely on their own exertions. In the parish school there are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, mensuration, Latin, and Greek ; but in all the other schools, reading, writing, and arithmetic only are taught The general rate of wages is 3s. per quarter for reading, and higher for the other branches of education. There are about 800 scholars generally attending all the different schools. Besides these week-day schools, there are three Sabbath schools, — so that there are very few but may be able to read if they choose to attend to the means of improvement within their reach. lAbraryj S^c. — Li Airdrie there is a circulating library, and also 248 LANARKSHIRE- a public reading-room, where the newspapers of the day, and various tracts and pamphlets are exhibited. There is an Orphan society, supported by donations, subscript tions, and collections at the churches and meeting-houses occa- sionally, for clothing and educating orphans and other destitute children. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor on the roll is about 190 on an average, and the sum distributed monthly is between L. 50 and L. 60 Sterling, in sums to each individual of from 2s. to 10s. according to the circumstances. The money is raised by collections at the parish church and chapel of Airdrie, from mortcloth dues, proclamation of marriages, and assessments to make up the deficiency. The assessments may amount on an average to L. 467. The Dissenters give no part of the collections at their meeting-houses to the poors funds of the parish, although their poor are supplied from these funds equally with others. Among the agricultural part of the population, there is a great aversion to come on the poors funds ; they consider it degrading ; but that spirit is almost extinct among the manufacturing and mining population. Prison, — In Airdrie there is a prison consisting of five cells or small apartments, which are dry, and in good order, and well se- cured ; and in which riotous and disorderly people are confined, as a punishment for their criminal conduct. Fairs. — There are two fairs yearly in Airdrie for the sale of cattle ; one of them is held in the end of May, the other about the middle of November; there is also a weekly market every Tuesday. The number of inns and alehouses is by far too great. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the time of the former Statistical Account, the population and trade of the parish have greatly increased, and much of the land is better cultivated. Besides the toll-road and rail-road for- merly mentioned, the statute labour roads of the parish have been greatly extended and improved. The quantity of dung now rais- ed in Airdrie is considerable, — which, with the Cumbernauld lime, and improved roads, affords the means of improving the land. Still, however, in the east and north-east parts of the parish, there is a great want of planting, and much of the land is very bare and naked, and far from being fertile. If summer fallowing were pracr tised, it would also be a great improvement ; but it is difficult to persuade farmers to deviate from the practice of their fathers. HAMILTON. 249 The frequent associations and combinations which prevail here, and are connected with similar combinations in different parts of the country, to raise the price of labour, are very hurtful. They interrupt trade, and attempt what is impracticable, as the price of all labour must be regulated by the demand. They keep trades' people io a constant state of agitation, and make them spend much of their time and money in attending their frequent meetings. These combinations prevail most among the colliers, and the weavers. The great number of inns, alehouses, and spirit-shops that abound in Airdrie, and other parts of the parish, affords great temptations to idleness, and dissipation, which involve many families in po- verty and misery. Licenses on these houses should be greatly in- cres^ed, so as greatly to reduce their number. My 1835. PARISH OF HAMILTON. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. WILLIAM MEEK, D. D.) ^,^,cti7pg ♦ THE REV. WILLIAM BUCK AN, ^^^^^STERb. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of this parish was Cadzow, com- monly pronounced Cawgo or Caygae, the etymology of which is uncertain. From " Acts of Parliament published by command of iis Majesty/' we learn, that the name of this parish was changed from Cadzow to Hamilton, by virtue of a charter granted by James Second of Scotland, to James first Lord Hamilton, dated 3d July 1445. In the above carta erectionis we have the following words, " Et manerium dicti Jacobi, (i. e, of Lord Hamilton,) quod nunc ie Orcharde nominatur, jacen. in baronia de Caidzhow, erit in futu- rura principale capitale messuagium omnium baroniarum, superi- oritatis, et terrarum prenominatarum, cum pertinen. totius dominii predicti, et Hamilton vocabitur et intitulabitur ;" from whence it appears that the manerium or manor-house of the Hamiltons, si- * Tbif Account was drawn up by the Reverend William Patrick, author of a M Popular Dacription of the Indigenous Plants of Lanarkshire," &c. 250 LANARKSHIRE. tuated near where the palace now stands, was formerly called the Orchard. Boundaries^ Extent ^ Sfc. — The parish of Hamilton is situated in the middle ward of the county of Lanark, {pi which the town of Ha- milton is the capital) between 55° 48' and 55° 43^ 18" north latitude. From Maidenlee in the south to Bothwell Bridge in the north, it is six miles in length ; and from Rottenburn, where it meets with the parish of Blantyre on the west, to the bank of the Clyde op- posite Carbarns, where it comes into contact with the parish of Dalserf, on the east, the distance is exactly the same across. The Clyde forms the north and north-east boundaries for about five miles, separating it from the parishes of Bothwell, Dalzel, and Cambusnethan. On meeting with Dalserf, at the above point op- posite Carbarns, the boundary line takes a south-west direction, cutting off one house in the north-west end of the village of Lark- hall, crossing the Carlisle road about a furlong and a-half above the fourteenth milestone from Glasgow; and reaching the Avon opposite Fairholm, it runs along the banks of that water to Mill- heugh Bridge. After this, the parish of Stonehouse forms the south-east boundary for a mile and a-half. Between the farms of Langfaugh and Craigthorn hill, the parish of Glasford coming in, forms the south and south-west boundaries, as far as Rotten- burn. From this point to Bothwell Bridge, the parish of Blan- tyre forms the western boundary. Thus we have Bothwell on the north, Dalzel, Cambusnethan, Dalserf, and Stonehouse on the east, Glasford on the south and south-west, and Blantyre on the west. The figure of the parish is an irregular polygon. It con- tains 22.25 square miles, or 14,240 standard imperial acres. Topographical Appearances. — Linnaeus remarks, that the ocean is the mother of the land ; and it may be said with equal truth, that the Clyde is the mother of the lower lands of Clydesdale. This noble river, rising in the higher regions of Crawford, traver- ses a whinstone or trap district till near the falls above Lanark. Here the Tocks suddenly change from crystalline trap to sand- stone and shale. Through these softer materials the river seems to have forced a way. From a mild and placid stream, gently meandering through verdant meadows, and wide expanding pas- tures, it becomes all at once a turbid, unruly, boisterous torrent, deeply engulfed in gloomy defiles of perpendicular rocks, or rush- ing headlong over lofty precipices. Below the falls, the banks be- gin to expand, and at their bases fertile haughs or holms are form- IIAMILTOX. 251 ed. About eight or ten miles below Stonebyres, the last fall on the Clyde, the banks of the river, receding to a more than usual distance, leave a great extent of plain or level ground. These low and fertile haughs, chiefly on the west bank of the Clyde, with the gently sloping ridge behind, constitute the parish of Hamil- ton. There are a few hundred acres on the east of the Clyde, which ought of right to belong to the parish of Dalzel. Meteorology. — As a general rule, it is observable, that every 300 feet of altitude make a difference of about one degree in tem- perature. Thus when the barometer is 29.5 in the lower grounds, near the town of Hamilton, it is 29.007 on the higher ridge in the lest; which ought to give an elevation of about 500 feet. The town of Hamilton is upwards of 80 feet above the level of the sea, —thus we have an elevation of 580 feet. Many neighbouring ridges are much higher ; probably 750 or 800 feet. In these up- per regions the temperature is generally one or two degrees lower than in the more sheltered vales in the Clyde, and the harvest is from a week to a month later. But besides the differences indi- cated by the thermometer and barometer, there are also very vari- ous hygrometrical results. After long-continued droughts, the columns of air being denser and of greater altitude in the vales than on the heights, buoy up the clouds, till attracted by the lof- tier ridges on the east and west, their cohesion is dissolved, and their contents precipitated. In this way the haughs and lower grounds on the Clyde are often parched with drought, while the heights on every side are saturated with rain. The qualities of air contributing to these results, also tend to promote exhalation in the lower grounds, and to relieve the soil and atmosphere from the superabundant moisture, so inimical to vegetation in the high- er parts of the parish. From rain-gages kept here, and in a neighbouring parish, it appears that the average quantity of rain for five years was 20.003 inches. The average number of dry and wet days in each month has also been ascertained from tables kept for that purpose for ten years. The result is as follows : Dry. Wet, Dry. Wet, Dry. Wet. Dry. Wet Nov. 23 7 Feb. 2:5 5 May, 24 7 Aug. 24 7 Dee. 24 7 Mar. 26 5 June, 23 7 Sept. L2 8 Jm. 25 6 Apr. 22 8 July, 21 10 Oct. 24 7 72 20 71 18 68 24 70 22 Total days, — 84 wet, and 281 dry. The above is only an average, from which there are wide devia- tions. In 1826, there was scarcely a drop of rain during March and 252 LANARKSHIRE. April, and the three summer months ; while in July 1828, rain fell on the 1st, 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 12th, 13th, 14th, 18th, 20th, 21st, 24th, 26th, 28th, 29th; and in August on the 3d, 4th, 5th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 13th, 14th, 20th, 21st, 22d, 24th- It thundered on the 5th, 8th, 12th. In September there were eight rainy days, and in October six. It generally thunders about the third Sunday of July, — a fact observable from neighbouring sacra- ments, happening on that day, seldom passing without electrical explosions. The wind, on an average of years, is 230 days in the west; namely, about 55 days west, 55 north-west, and 120 south-west. It is 110 days in the east, namely, 25 east, 50 north-east, and 35 south-east- It is seldom more than 25 davs in the north and south. Registers of the thermometer and barometer, kept here for three years by Dr King, R. N. vary so little from those kept at Glas- gow, and published in the Glasgow Medical Journal, that it is un- necessary to give them a place. The barometer on an average ranges between 30.53 and 28.73. The thermometer is seldom above 75 in July, or below 15 in January. In the hottest days, in a small room facing the north, it fluctuates between 65 and 70. In mean monthly temperature, January is the lowest, namely, from 35 to 38, and July the highest, from 58 to 60. February and No- vember are from 40 to 42 ; but November is the warmer of the two. The same analogy holds between March and October, the average heat being 45 to 47 ; but October is warmer than March. April is seldom so warm as September, nor is May so warm as August. The greatest heats and the heaviest rains are after the longest day. From the above remarks, the reader will be enabled to form a tolerably accurate idea of the climate. The air is in general re- puted healthful; and the splendid scenery around affords abundant scope for pleasant and exhilarating excursions. Fogs are not fre- quent, and rains less so than at some other places a few miles dis- tant. Colds, consumption, fevers of different kinds, particularly a slow nervous fever, to be afterwards described, fluxes, and inflam- mation, in different forms, at times prevail here, as in other places around. Gravel and other calculous complaints are on the decline ; but inflammations, palsy, and apoplexy, are supposed to be on the increase, — probably from what is termed the improved mode of living, and the more liberal use of ardent spirits and other stimu- HAMILTON. 253 kting liquors. Smallpox, which, in the year 1787, carried off se- venty-five children in this parish, was for many years almost un- known. ' Of late it has reappeared, but in a less fatal form. Among the list .of new diseases, we may mention dysentery, which was little known here till the spring of 1818. It appeared in that year in the months of March and April, and in the end of June, and in July, August, and September. Thermometer, in the first pe- riod, greatest height 67; least height 29. The last days of March, and the first six of April, were foggy and calm ; from the 8th to the ]2th snow and rain fell ; from that to the end of the month, windy, with a few calm days. Wind, N. E. and E. A year or two after, this disease made its appearance among the cavalry in the barracks, and as their surgeon had never seen it before, he very prudently called in medical assistance from the town. It raged fearfully for some time ; but the terror it excited has of late almost entirely given place to that of its more formidable successor, cholera. From July to November 1832, sixty-three individuals, mostly fe- oiales, and many of them in the poorest circumstances, fell victims to this new and appalling scourge. The hospital near the barracks, and other incidental expenses, cost the parish upwards of L. 600. It has not since appeared in this place. The slow nervous or re- mittent fever, above alluded to, is a variety of the gastric fever of some authors, and is by many of our ablest physicians considered as being, perhaps, peculiar to Hamilton. It seems to have its source in the irritation of the digestive organs.* Frosts of long continuance are now of rare occurrence. The most remarkable were in the winters of 1708, 1715, 1739, (called the hard frost,) 1742, 1754, 1776, 1788, 1796, and 1813. The heaviest snows of late have been in March and April, — as in 1820 and 1827. In 1809, a heavy fall of snow, on the 31st of May, and again on the 5th of June, did great damage in the orchards and woodlands, by breaking down the branches of the trees then in full verdure. On the 5th February 1831, several persons in this neighbourhood were lost in the snow. Hydrography. — The river Clyde and the other waters in the district are occasionally subject to great inundations. In 738, • The symptoms, according to an amiable and much lamented individual, the late I)r John Hume of Hamilton, are, ** Ileadach often very severe ; pain in the back and loiiu,and sometimes in the chest ; sometimes delirium, but transient ; never stupor, ex- cept inmiediately before death ; variable pulse, but in general quick ; frequent cough ; l»«t and dryness of skin, alternating with chilliness, nausea, vomiting of bilious nutters, pain in the epigastrium and bowels generally, want of appetite, white toogue, either pure or mixed with red points, generally costivcncss, and turbid urine. 254 LANARKSHIRE. a flood destroyed 400 families. Grey, in his Chrooicle, mentioQa another great spate on 25th and 26th November 1454» which brought down " hale housis, barnis, and millis," and obUged the inhabitants of Garion, near Dalserf, to take to their house-tops. To escape such catastrophes, the principal part of the Netherton stood on a high ground which the Clyde never inundated ; and it was probably the fright which the above-mentioned flood occasion- ed that caused Lord Hamilton, the year following, to remove the Collegiate Church to the place where Hamilton Palace now stands. On the 12th of March 1782, the flood was nearly two feet higher than was ever remembered before ; and the river rose about sixteen feet perpendicular above the ordinary level of low water. It over- flowed a great tract of country, and appeared like an arm of the sea. The date of this flood, and the height of the water, are recorded on Hamilton Bridge. In the autumn of 1807, another great spate carried ofl* a vast quantity of grain, then standing in the stook, and swept away the two centre arches of Hamilton Bridge. On the 9th February 1831, on the melting of the snow, the Clyde rose at Blantyre Mills to the height of twelve feet nine inches above its usual level ; and at Hamilton Bridge it was within six inches of the flood-mark of 1782. Besides the Clyde, the course of which has already been de- scribed, the parish is traversed by the Avon, (an old British word which signifies the " water,") and nine smaller streamlets or burns, six of which fall into the Avon, and three into the Clyde. All of these have their origin in the high grounds in the west and south- west of the parish. By time and perseverance (like their mightier chief the Clyde,) they have forced their way through great chasms in the sandstone rocks, forming magnificent heughs or ravines of great magnitude, infinitely varied, and richly wooded. These con- stitute part of the " beauties of Scotland," of which a stranger pas- sing along the highway knows and sees but little. The Avon rises on the west, near the boundary line between the parish of Strath- avon and the county of Ayr. After running for many miles through a pastoral country, and the better cultivated tracts of Avondale and Stonehouse, it enters the parish of Hamilton, at Millheugh Bridge. About half a mile onwards, it is at length engulfed in a stupen- dous and rocky defile, equal in grandeur, variety, and picturesque effect, to the finest scenery of the kind in Britain. It bears no in- considerable resemblance to the celebrated banks at Roslin, near Edinburgh, but is finer, and on a more majestic scale. In many HAMILTON. 255 places the rocks tower up to the height of 250 or 300 feet, and are frequently crowned with stately oaks of great antiquity, and of sin- gular and romantic forms. These noble banks arc everywhere densely covered with hard-wood of numerous sorts, and of various tints; and at their summits on the west, Hamilton wood stretches &r beyond. Near the centre of this gloomy chasm, the ruins of Cadzow Castle appear <^ like centinel of fairy land,'' on the summit of a lofty rock, nearly 200 feet above the bed of the Avon. On the opposite side of the river, on the east, the modem chateau or baDqueting-house known by the name of Chatelherault, or Wham, arises with its red walls, its four square towers all in a line, its gaudy pinnacles, its globular and circular ornaments, and its beautiful flower garden. It was built after the model of the Citadel at Cha- telherault in Poitou, about 1732. Near the northern extremity of this romantic dell, and about three miles from its commencement, the ancient terraced gardens of Barncluith, (or Baron's Cleugh,) the property of Lord Kuthven, appear on the west bank of the Avon, remarkable not only for their site and design, for their formal walks and topiary work, but also as affording the best specimen ex- taot of an old garden in the French style, (misnamed Dutch, in compliment to William of Orange,) as it existed in the sixteenth century. After this, the Avon, beginning to emancipate itself from restraint, enters the haughs of Hamilton, and is lost in the Clyde, at Hamilton bridge.* Cadzow bum, which still retains the ancient name of the parish, rises in Wackenwae well,* in Glasford, and runs through the town of Hamilton ; after which it enters the Duke of Hamilton's lower policy, where it is arched over nearly to the point where it joins the Clyde, at the old ford and boat-house below Hamilton Bridge, fiamcluith burn, which enters the Avon about half a mile east of Hamilton, is remarkable for six falls, (all in Hamilton wood,) each from 5 to 6 feet high. The banks of this burn, immediately below the falls, seem anciently to have been of more consequence than at present Within half a mile of each other, we have Quhitecamp, DOW Silvertonhill, Castle-hill, and Covant burn, although no traces of a camp, castle, or convent are now to be found, nor is any history or tradition of them preserved. The above waters are all clear pur- ling streams, running on a fine bed of sand and gravel, or on the bare sandstone or shale. The average breadth of the Clyde is • This spot has given rise to a beautiful and popular song, (attributed, by mistake, to Burns,) " Where Avon mingles with the Clyde." 256 LANARKSHIRE. from 80 to 100 yards. Its average velocity is from 2 to 8 or 10 miles an hour. In some places it is 10 or 12 feet deep, and at some fords and streams it is scarcely 1. Its temperature in July, when the thermometer was 65° in the shade, was 60°. The springs are all from the surface, and are formed by the in- tervention of clay and sand strata, the former holding water, and the latter permitting its free passage. The process of filtration is also promoted by the fissures in the metals, and the looser and more porous materials with which they are filled up. In well-digging, it is looked upon as a maxim, that there is no water till clay is reached, and penetrated quite through. Many of our best wells, however, are in the solid rock, and few of them more than 20 feet in depth. Their average temperature in July, when the thermo- meter was 65°, was 50°. In the beginning of November, when the thermometer was 45, the temperature of the springs was nearly the same as in July. Many of the wells in Hamilton hold a cal- careous substance (the carbonate and sulphate of lime) in solution, equal to a 1500th part of their volume. The carbonate of lime is a substance equally innocuous as common salt, and although the springs in which it occurs always produce a hard sort of water, which is not fit for washing or bleaching, yet for culinary purposes it is quite unexceptionable. There are several chalybeate springs in the parish, but none of these are in high repute. Geology. — In forming an accurate and comprehensive view of the geology of this district, if we take the granite rocks of Galloway as the base, we have superincumbent upon them, 1. the greywacke of Leadhills and Wanlockhead ; 2. the red sandstone over which the Clyde is precipitated at Lanark ; and 3. the coal formation of the middle and lower wards, consisting of bituminous shale, coal, gray limestone, gray sandstone, and clay ironstone ; thus afibrd- ing a beautiful illustration of the transition and carboniferous epochs. The sandstone rocks are, for the most part, in great masses, repeatedly broken by horizontal and perpendicular fissures. They vary from a few inches or feet, to 50 or 200 or 300 feet in thickness. The strata, with few exceptions, dip in a N. E. di- rection towards the Clyde. The dip varies from three to twelve degrees, or from one to four feet in twenty. In many places the dip is one in six. There is a small stratum of whin or trap in the S. W. of the parish, which attains its greatest altitude at High- cross- Knoll. HAMILTON. 257 The soil superincumbent on the above strata is of various sorts. The extensive valleys along the Clyde are of a deep fertile loam 00 a sandy or loose gravelly subsoil. A remarkable tract of sandy s(m1, several miles in length, and about a mile and a -half in breadth, commences at Cunningar, runs through the farm of Merryton, and southwards by Raploch in Dalserf, and Kittimuir in Stonchouse. On this soil it is observed that potatoes do not in general thrive well after the application of lime. In the middle of the parish the subsoil is mostly a yellow clay, (the Argilla communis of Lin- Dsus.) In the upper and bleaker parts, a bluish or grayish clay prevails, more or less impregnated with gravel and other siliceous substances. This last is the very worst description of soil. There is little or no peat in the parish. The surface oyi the whole " not being broken by any great irregularities, the land is all arable, ex- cept some steep banks by the sides of the river and brooks, a few swampy meadows in the upper part of the parish, and such parts as are covered with planting or natural wood, the extent of which is considerable." The haughs on the Clyde are all of transport- ed soil, and seem at some former period to have formed the bot- tmi of lakes ; for there is no haugh without its dam at the lower part of it, by which the water was no doubt once retained. Thus, the dam of the Hamilton haughs was a little below Bothwell Bridge ; that of the Ross, Allanton, and Merryton haughs, at the camp of Dalzel. Dalserf, Dalpatrick, and Dalbeg haughs were dammed up at Garion Mill ; and the haughs of Overton and Thrippet, at Milton Bridge. At what period the waters forced a passage through these several barriers, it is impossible now to ascertain. The bottoms of all our rivers and burns are imbedded with gravel, consisting of the debris of granite, basalt, quartz, and various other descriptions of rocks. In the bed of Cadzow burn, at the flesh-market, there are water-worn blocks of granite, and boulders of highly indurated red sandstone of two or three feet diameter, imbedded in the solid rocL In Bamcluith burn, there are also large blocks of granite several feet in diameter, lying upon a bed of shale. It is well-known that there are no granite rocks nearer than forty miles and up- wards, and the course of these burns is not more than six miles. The question, therefore, comes to be, — whence do these strangers come? Large water-worn masses of pure basalt are also found in the bed of every torrent, and wherever the soil is dug into. Coal, lime, and ironstone, are found in various places. Coal is chiefly wrought at Quarter, about three miles south of the town of 258 LANARKSHIRE. Hamilton. The same bed also extends a great way northwards in the direction of Glasgow, but owing to a slip in the coal metals between the farms of Simpsonland and Carscallan, a little to the north of Quarter, the coal is sunk nearly 100 fathoms below its usual level ; an accident which puts it almost beyond the reach of the inhabitants of Hamilton, Blantyre, and part of Bothwell ; the strata not rising up again till near Cambuslang. The existence of this remarkable fracture is indicated by the coal metals on the banks of the Avon, and on other burns below the place where the break occurs, all dipping to the south-west; whereas, above that particular spot, they, and indeed the whole strata of the district, with this single exception, dip to the north-east. The coal strata here resemble those throughout the county. At Quarter, the first bed worth working is the 10 feet or woman's coal, so called because it was once wrought by females. This is a soft coal, which burns rapid- ly; and although called the 10 feet coal, is in reality from 7 to 14 feet in thickness. Fifteen fathoms lower down, the ell coal oc- curs, so called because it was at first found of that thickness ; but it is frequently from 4 to 6 feet thick. In the fire it cakes, or runs into a mass, and is much esteemed by blacksmiths. Ten or fifteen fathoms below the former, is the seam called the main-coaL This at Quarter is 5 feet 6 inches thick, and consists of four dis- tinct varieties of coal. 1^^, The ground coal, undermost, 20 inches thick, gummy and sooty. 2^, Immediately above it the yolk or jet coal, 6 inches thick, of a fine clear vitreous texture, like cannel coal, afibrding abundance of light 3^/, Parrot coal, 10 inches. 4^A, Splint coal, 30 inches. This is the coal now wrought both by shanks and ingoing pits. The shanks at Quarter are about 30 fathoms. The mouths of the ingoing pits are on the banks of the Avon two miles above Hamilton. These pits communicate with each other ; and at their farthest recesses, swarms of flies are of- ten observed. They also abound with rats and mice. Below the main coal, the lump, hard, soft, and sour-milk seams of coal occur, each at the depth of about 15 fathoms, the one below the other. Between and above these, there are many smaller seams. The whole of the seams added together will give a thickness of from 20 to 24 feet Coal is also wrought to the south at Plotcock and Langfaugh, but on a smaller scale. Some trifling seams have been found at Devonhill, on the west side of the parish. The coal is brought from Quarter by a railway along the banks of the Avon, and is laid down at Avon bridge, half a mile from Hamilton, at 3s. HAMILTON. 259 9(L a*ton« Here horses and donkeys are employed to cart it into tlie town, at from lOd. to 15d. per ton. The donkey carts are of great service to poor people, who get ten or twelve cwts. laid down at from 2s. dd. to 2s. 6d. Upwards of 10,000 tons are here sold annually. About half that quantity is disposed of at Quarter to peo- ple on the Strathavon and Stonehouse side of the parish, llierc are various other collieries in the neighbourhood. There are two principal beds or posts of lime, namely, a 4 feet bed below the 6 feet coal ; and about 12 fathoms farther down, a 6 feet bed. The 4 feet bed crops out at Crookedstone, and the 6 feet bed at Boghead, in the south-west of the parish. This last is a ixtk lime of excellent quality, and is that which is chiefly made use of in building and agriculture. The tenantry on the Hamil* ton estate obtain it on very liberal terms. A seam of ironstone, about 18 inches thick, occurs below the 4 feet lime, but it has never been wrought in this parish. It crops out at Crookedstone, and at Boghead. A similar seam, 15 fa^ thorns below the splint coal, is wrought exactly at the same eleva* tk>o near Newhouse in Bothwell, on the opposite side of the Clyde. Balls of ironstone, from the size of a pea to several inches in dia- meter, abound in the fire-clay connected with the coal formation. Rich seams of this valuable material are disclosed by the cutting of the railway on the Avon. The above strata are the depositories of many organic remains. The following are a few of the most common and interesting. Turbo Uriij Paludina Jluviorum^ Phasianella angulosa et minuta, Bdlerophon Urii^ in limestone, Terebratula affinis, and probably many more of the same genus; Product us Martini et Longispi^ xttf, — the under valve has a few spines like mother of pearl ; Pec- ttn -papyraceus in shale ; Gryphcea minuta in a thin bed of clay above the lime ; Nucula attenuata and gibbosa^ in till on the banks of the Avon. Small pieces of black mineralized wood (Phytolithus trunci) are found above the lime, so hard as to strike fire ; and yet the component parts so distinct, that the bark, the dif- ferent years growth, and the pith, can be easily distinguished. They seem chiefly of the pine genus. Impressions of several ge- nera and species of ferns {Phytolitha totalis) are found in the bed of the Avon near the coal mines. These are inclosed in pieces of water-worn schist or Waes, which ought to be carefully broken in order to obtain the impressions entire. The plants thus procured are chiefly exotics. There are several petrifying springs, particu- 260 LANARKSHIRE. larly one on a small rivulet which falls into the Avon above Cad- zow Castle, where beautiful petrifactions ofhi/pna are found. Beds of fuller's earth (Argillafullonica) and potter's earth (Argilla leucargilla) are found in various quarters ; and in one part a very pure yellow ochre (Argilla lutea) in considerable quantities. Zoology. — Under this branch, as the parish is not a little distinguished, a rather lengthened description may be allowed. Among the quadrupeds, we may mention Martes abietum^ the mer- trick or pine-martin. It is very common here, producing its young in the old nests of the crow and magpie, on the summits of the loftiest trees. It is very ravenous, and is frequently caught in stamps. The weasel, ermine and foumart, abound ; and also the otter, badger, wild-cat, hedgehog, &c. The Cervus capreolus, or roe, is an occasional visitant. Five of these were seen in a flock in Hamilton woods last year (1833). That variety of Sarez ara-- neiis which has the " upper parts dusky-gray, under yellowish white," is occasionally observed. An individual has also a stuffed specimen, (killed here) of what appears to be the S. quadricaudatus of Linnseus. The woods here are extensive, and vocal with birds. The four species which follow, have not hitherto obtained a place in the Scottish Fauna. 1. Pemis apivorusy honey buzzard, shot at Cha- telherault in the autumn of 1831. 2. Saxicola rubicola^ stone-chat. This bird has built for many years at the root of a furze bush near Hamilton. It forms a curious road into its nest, about half a yard in length, through the long grass. The eggs are blue, with rufous spots at the larger end. A fine male of this species, shot a mile from Hamilton, is in possession of Mr Kirkland, weaving agent.* 3. Curruca sylviella^ lesser white-throat. This bird, supposed to be confined to England, is common here. The nest is sometimes in a hedge, but more frequently among long dry grass, by the side of a wood, four or five inches from the ground, and generally over- shadowed by a twig of bramble or some other shrub. The nest is more compact than that of the larger white-throat, which, in addi- tion to its numerous names, is here called " Beardy, and Blethering Tam." The song of the sylviella is sweeter and more perfect than that of the common sort, and its eggs are also very different 4. Curruca salicaria^ or sedge warbler. An individual of this species • Since writing the above, I have seen another male of the ruhicola shot at Hes- pielaw, in this parish. A pair had been observed flying about during the summer, and probably had their nest there. 4 HAMILTON. 261 tt now in the collection of a person named Mowat It was killed by a boy throwing a stone (last summer) near a marshy place on the Clyde. Among the rarer birds of Scotland, the following are pretty com- mon here : FringiUa montium^ twite, or heather linnet. This bird gravely represented in some popular works on ornithology, as build- ing m France, and as being ^^ occasionally caught by the London bird-catchers," is here common enough, and is well known to almost efery schoolboy. The nest is generally in a heather bush, in a brae, or slight declivity, and is very skilfully concealed. It resem- bles that of the common linnet, but is smaller, and is mostly lined with wooL In autumn, especially when frost begins, they descend in flocks to the lower grounds. Muscicapa grisola^ spotted fly- cateher : This bird, as far as can be ascertained, is in this district confined to the vale of the Clyde at Hamilton and Bothwell. It builds in out^houses and in wall-trees, in the most frequented places. It is a tame and silent bird, and disappears in September. •Sy/rw phoBJiicuruSj redstart or red-tail, is exceedingly abundant. The Certhia familiaris also occurs in the parish. The Curruca (dncapitta or black-cap is common, but here it seems to lose that varied and melodious song for which it is famous in the south, and on account of which it is sometimes called the mock nightingale. The MotacUla Jlavoy or yellow wagtail, is here called the Seed Lady. Motacilla boarula^ or gray- wagtail, which some natu- rah'sts say is " chiefly observed in winter" is most common with ns in summer, and builds among stones, and on the rocks by the sides of rivulets. It is asserted that the siskin, Friiigilla spinus, builds here, but upon no sure authority. The goatsucker, the mis- seUhrush, the dipper, the yellow-wren, the crested-titmouse, the bullfinch, goldfinch, starling, &c. are common. The missel-thrush builds in orchards, and lines with clay beneath the small wrack, ex- cept where the branches of the tree embrace the nest. Opposite these there is no plaster work, the branch itself aflbrding abundance of shelter. A person kept a tame one in Hamilton, which sung remark- ably well. The Alcedo isjnda^ or kingfisher, builds here regularly. A lai^e heronry may now be seen in Hamilton haughs. There were about thirty nests this season. The heron seems to prefer the loftiest trees for building on, especially those a little elevated above the rest, by the nature of the ground on which they stand. These birds are frequently attacked by the carrion-crow, on their return from their fishing expeditions, and the prey snatched from them. LANARK. S 262 LANARKSHIRE. The jackdaw, although he in general prefers old ruins for his breed- ing place, builds here abundantly in the holes of the old oaks in Hamilton wood. In the month of May they spread themselves over dry old pastures, where they pick up vast quantities of insects, caterpillars, and beetles. At this season they forsake their old com- panions the rooks; but return to them again in autumn. A nest of the Cypsehu apus^ or swift, was got this summer with three young.* The following species are often shot : Lanitts excubitor, cinereous shrike. It appears chiefly in autumn, and sometimes attacks the call-birds of the bird-catcher in their cages. Bombycilla garrtda^ wax-wing, or Bbhemian chatterer. These are irregular visitants. Three individuals were shot in 1830 with heps in their stomachs. A vast flock of them appeared in the haughs of Hamilton in the winter of 1782. They are regarded as birds of evil omen. Loxia curvirostra, or cross-bill, Ernberiza nivalis^ or snow-bunting, JFnn- gilla montifrinffilloy mountain-finch, or cock of the north, and many other winter birds are observed. No species of Picus or woodpecker has ever been observed in this part of Scotland. In winter many species of sea-fowl, chiefly first year's birds, are shot on the Clyde. The erne is often observed. Yunx tarquiUa was lately shot. Of the reptile kind, the Angtds fragilis^ or blind-worm, is very common at Chatelherault. It is so brittle that it readily breaks if let fall, or when suddenly laid hold on. Having no poison fangs its bite is not venomous. It hides in holes in the winter, and is sometimes seen abroad in the spring, by the beginning of March. Some years ago a vast number of young vipers, with some old ones of great magnitude, were turned up when digging a plot of ground near Woodyet These, in the true viper spirit, struck their long barbed tongues against the spades of the workmen with great vio- lence, and seemed very angry at being thus invaded in their an- cient domains. This species is very venomous. Vast quantities of frogs are sometimes found congregated in moist marshy places, many feet below the surface. About a hogshead-full were dug up some • About two years ago, many of the inhabitants of Hamilton were attracted to Mr Fisher's at ClaudVburn, in the neighbourhood of the town, to see a robin red- breast feeding a young cuckoo, which it had hatched. The little bird had been a pet during the winter, but leaving its master, and searching out for a mate in the spring, met with this misfortune. The toil of feeding so large a bird as the cuckoo, which by this time was flying about the orchard, soon compelled robin to apply onoe more to his former benefactor for assbtancc ; and it was curious to see the fond dupe come and peck worms, and other viands, out of Mr Fisher's hand, and carry them off di- rectly to his great insatiable pseudo- nestling. HAMILTON. 263 years ago, near the margin of a spouty ditch, in the high parks of Hamilton. There' are abundance of fish in the Clyde and its tributaries. Of these, the Lettciscus rutiliu, roach or braize, is the most un- common. The other species are the salmon, trout, pike, perch, loach, minnow, lampreys, silver eels, and small flounders. The lampreys may be congregated in vast quantities by throwing a piece of carrion into the water.* That disputed species, the par or samlet of Pennant, abounds at particular seasons. Dr Fleming, in his History of British Animals, observes, that this species is now ^^ generally consi- dered as the young of Salmo trntta, or sea-trout, or of the sal- mon." That it is not the young of the sea-trout is certain ; for, al- though we have myriads of pars^ no such species as sea-trout was ever found here. It may be said, they are spawned below, and come up the water; but it does not appear how so small a fish as a par could ^t over Blantyre dam, three miles below Hamilton. The lowering of the dam at Millheugh, on the Avon, now going on, will allow the passage of the salmon, but not of smaller fish ; and if after this the par is found above the dam, we may conclude it is the spawn of the salmon. Nous verroru. The eggs of insects seem to be distributed as universally, and with as much care, as the seeds of plants. The number of these ^ Uttle wonders" inhabiting this part of Scotland is truly astonish- ing ; and, although some pretty good collections of them have been made, they have not hitherto been half investigated. The follow- ing are a few of the most interesting : Coleaptera, or beetles. 1. Silpha quadripunctata. - An insect of the above species was found here in 1826. This is an exceedingly rare insect. 2. JRhagium hifaciaJtum, 3. Leptura quadrifaciata. To these we may add^the three following species, namely, the Scarabctus melohmtha^ S. brun^ neasj and S. horticola. Dr Rennie mentions the Melohntha or cockchaffer as occurring (in this end of the island) only at Som in Ayrshire. It is certainly fortunate for Scotland that an insect so very destructive in its habits is of so very rare occurrence ; but still several places in this country are occasionally subjected to its ravages. In the summer of 1833, a great deal of grass was de- stroyed by this insect, and many thousands of them were caught at Chatelherault. * The hone- muscle, MytUlus anaiinut and M. cygneua, are plentiful in the Clyde. Thej sometimes contain small pearls ; but these are in general coarse and ill-coloured. 264 LANARKSHIRE. Among the Hemiptera of this parish, we may now record Blatta Americana^ which has probably been brought over in raw sugar. The cock-roach occasionally secretes itself in a pot of jam or jelly, where it attains an enormous size, and assumes a darker and more glossy hue ; but it loses somewhat of its activity by this over-indul- gence of its appetites. It is brought with baggage from sea, but soon disappears. Of Lepidoptera^ there are here many rare species. Among the butterfly tribe we may mention, Vanessa Atalanta or red admir- able. This species is pretty common. The caterpillar is solitary, and feeds on the nettle. The butterfly appears in August, and, it has been said, lives through the winter. The Vanessa lo^ or pea- cock butterfly, is more rare. The caterpillar feeds on the nettle, and the perfect insect appears in July. The Thecla querats, or purple hair streak, is found in May and June. The Hipparchia nujeffcerof or gate-keeper, and the H. cegeria^ or speckled wood, are al- so found. The LyccBna alsusj or small blue, is common here. The Hesperia Tages^ or dingy skipper, and Vanessa cardui, or painted lady, may be also mentioned. Vast flights of this last species oc- casionally occur on the continent. It is one of the few insects found in all quarters of the globe. The following moths also occur : Sa- tumia Pavonia minor^ or emperor moth. This is an early and ele- gant insect, appearing in April and May. The caterpillars feed on the bramble and dog-rose. Pygcera hucephala^ or buff" tip moth, is common in some seasons, and very rare in others. The Centra vinula^ or piiss moth, Acherontia atropos^ death's head moth, La^ siocampa rvhi^ fox-egger-moth, Smerinthus populi^ Zygcena JUi-- pendula^ Microglossa stellularum^ Plusia gamma^ and many other species occur. Biston betularis^ is as if a pepper-box had been dusted on its wings. Abraxas grossidariata is common in some sea- sons, and in others very scarce. These keep chiefly to the lower grounds, and in many places, only 50 feet above Hamilton, are never met with at all. Among the fruit moths the Bradyepetes do- labraria^ is the greatest scourge of the orchard. Various species of Hepialus^ supposed to be found only in England, occur here. The Cleophora fagana^ and Phragmatobia fvliginosa are very rare insects. Among the Hymenoptera^ we may note Ichneumon luteus^ L manifestor^ and two varieties of Chrysopa reticulata. Botany. — As nearly all the phaenogamous plants have already been published in a " Popular description of the indigenous plants of La- HAMILTON. 265 Darkshire," we will only mention the three following among the rarer species : 1. A variety of Antirrhmum repens. The stem is simple, and has four linear leaves in whorls from top to bottom. The whole plant is glabrous, and is found on an old wall, to the north of Hamilton wood. 2. Cnicus eriophorus. This magnificent plant is now common in waste ground at Woodyet. 3. Chrysocoma Li- nosyris, or flax-leaved-goldilocks. This plant, a native of the south, has lately appeared on the banks of the Clyde, in a very re- mote spot, in great abundance. The roots or seeds have proba- bly been brought down by the water. Adescriptionof the CryptoffamicB of this fSLrish and district is now in preparation. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices. — In 1 153 and in 1289, the old Scottish kings beld their courts at Cadzow ; which continued to be royal pro- perty till after the battle of Bannockburn. This district has been occasionally the scene of important events, which, as they are well known in Scottish history, need not be here particularly noticed. Covenanters. — In November 1650, Cromwell sent General Lam- bert, and Commissary General Whalley, to Hamilton, with five re- giments of cavalry to overawe the west-country Covenanters, or to bring them over to his own terms. They were there attacked by Colonel Kerr, with 1500 horsemen from Ayrshire. The Cove- nanters succeeded in securing a number of the horses; but Lambert baving rallied his forces, overtook the " spoil encumbered foe" two miles west of Hamilton, killed Colonel Kerr and about 100 of his troops, and took many prisoners. On Sabbath 1st June 1679, Captain Graham, (afterwards Vis- count Dundee,) on his way to the field of Drumclog, seized, near Hamilton, John King, a field preacher, and seventeen other people, ^bom he bound in pairs, and drove before him towards Loudon HilL Mr King, who was probably in disguise, is described by Crighton as a " bra' nuickle carl with a white hat, and a great bob of ribbans on the back o't." The Covenanters, after their success at Drumclog, deeming it unlawful to fight on the Sabbath except in self-defence, returned to the field of action, where they offered «p thanks to the Almighty for the victory they had gained ; after which they took some refreshment in Strathaveii, and marched to Hamilton in the evening. Next day, (June 2d,) flushed with vic- tory, they resolved to make an attack on Glasgow. One division of them, commanded by Mr Hamilton, attempted to penetrate by 266 LANARKSHIRE. Gallowgate, and another party entered by the High Street. But Lord Ross had so completely barricaded the streets, and made such a resistance, that the Covenanters were soon compelled to retire, with the loss of Walter Paterson of Carbarns, and five of their party killed, and several wounded. After their repulse at Glasgow, they rallied on Tollcross muir, and returned to Hamilton. The more moderate party (June 20) drew up a paper, which afterwards obtained the name of the '^ Hamilton Declaration." The purport of it was to forbear all angry disputes and mutual recriminations for the present, to disclaim any intention to overturn the Govern- ment* civil or ecclesiastical, and to refer all matters of importance to a free Parliament, and a lawfully chosen General Assembly. This proposal was, of course, rejected by the violent party. Their guard was attacked in the night-time at Hamilton Ford, and one of their number (James Cleland) killed. On Saturday 21st June, the Royal army, under the Duke of Monmouth, about 5000 strong, reached Bothwell Muir, within two miles of the Covenanters' camp. On the morning of Sabbath, 22d June 1672, the Covenanters, amounting to about 4000 men, were posted between the Clyde and the town of Hamilton, on the brow of the brae near Bothwell Bridge. Rathiliet, Hall, and Tumbull, with three troops under their command, and one piece of brass ordnance, guarded that important pass. The re- sult of this most unfortunate rencounter is well known. The Co- venanters were put to flight. They fled with great loss chiefly in the direction of Glasford and Strathaven. Gordon of Earlston had reached the parish of Hamilton with a party of Galloway men, when they met their discomfited brethren at AUowshill, near Quarter, where Grordon was met and killed. A great number of the Cove- nanters found shelter in Hamilton woods ; and the amiable Duchess Anne Hamilton, requesting that the soldiers might not be permit- ted to enter her plantations, Monmouth instantly gave orders to that effect. About 1200 men were taken prisoners on the spot. Historical Notices. — The Hamiltons were great opposers of the Union. In 1707, when that event took place, 500 troops assem- bled at Hamilton to resist it by force of arms. It was expected that 7000 or 8000 would have met ; but the Duke of Hamilton disap- proved of the measure. In the year 1744, a fire took place in Barrie's Close, which raged with unabating fury for eight days. The town's-peopie were at length' so completely exhausted, that they were compelled to call HAMILTON. 267 io assistance from the country. A wliole street of houses was burn- ed, and their ruins were allowed to remain for many years. On the death of the Duke of Douglas in 1761, the house of Ha- milton, as male representatives of the Douglasses, laid claim to the estates, under a persuasion, that Mr Douglas, son and heir of Lady Jane Stewart, sister of the Duke of Douglas, was a supposititious child, taken at Paris from the real parents. A long law-suit was the result. It was decided in Paris, and in the Court of Session, in (aTOur of the Hamiltons ; but on an appeal to the House of Peers, was ultimately decided in favour of Mr Douglas, since created Lord Douglas. In 1777, Douglas Duke of Hamilton, coming of age, raised in Hamilton, for the service of the country, the 82d Regiment of Foot, which afterwards highly distinguished itself in the American war. On 11th June 1782, the Duke of Hamilton, as Duke of Bran- don in England, was called to take his seat in the House of Lords as a British Peer. This paved the way to all the Scottish nobi- lity who have since attained similar honours and privileges. Eminent Men, — This parish has been the birth-place and occa- sional residence of many eminent characters. The celebrated Dr Cullen, sometimes represented as born at Lanark in 1712, ap- pears distinctly from the session books of Hamilton to have been bom two years later in the parish of Hamilton. Dr Cullen was magistrate of Hamilton for several years. — The celebrated Lord Cochrane, now Earl Dundonald, spent many of his early years in the parish. — The father of the late Professor Millar of Glasgow was parochial clergyman here ; as was also the father of the late Dr Bailiie of London, and of his celebrated sister, Joanna Baillie. Family of Hamilton, — The estate of Cadzow, now Hamilton, comprises more than one-half of the parish. It had remained in the Crown from a very remote antiquity, till 1316, when it was bestowed on Walter Fitz Gilbert de Hamilton, by Bruce, imme- diately after the battle of Bannockburn. It has continued in the hands of his descendants ever since. This noble family, although the first in the kingdom for rank, has not been above 600 years in Scotland. The first of them is supposed to have been an English gentleman of the line of Mellent and Leicester. In 1445, they were ennobled by the title of Lord Hamilton. In 1474, James first Lord Hamilton married the Princess Mary, eldest daughter of James II. King of Scotland, and widow of Thomas Boyd, Earl of Arran. By this connection his descendants came to be declared 268 LANARKSHIRE. in Parliament, on the demise of James V., in the event of the death of Mary Queen of Scots, next heirs to the Crown, and have, in consequence, been ever since regarded as a branch of the royal family. They were created Dukes of Chatelherault, in France, on carrying Queen Mary thither. They were made Dukes of Ha- milton by Charles I. and Dukes of Brandon in England by Queen Anne. In consequence of the marriage of Anne Duchess of Ha- milton to Lord William Douglas, eldest son of William first Mar- quis of Douglas by his first wife, Lady Mary Gordon, the Hamil- ton family are now Douglasses by the male side. Buchanan, and some of his followers, represent the Hamiltons as dependents on the Douglasses, and as becoming great by betray- ing them to James H., who murdered the Earl of Douglas in Stir- ling Castle with his own hand, although he had a safeguard. It is farther asserted, that James III. forced the wife of Boyd, Earl of Arran, to forsake her husband, and marry Lord Hamilton. These statements, there is reason to believe, were invidious on the part of Buchanan, and made in order to please his patron the Earl Murray, a great enemy of the Hamiltons. Boetius (book 12, chap. 5,) says, that the first daughter of James II. was married to Lord Boyd, who had by her a son and a daughter; and that after the death of Lord Boyd, this daughter of James II. was married to Lord Ha- milton; in that way the Hamiltons are "decorit in the King's blood." This edition of Boetius was translated by Bellenden, who, being contemporary with the lady, is better authority than Buchanan, who lived a century after. Silverton Hill. — Silverton Hill, anciently Quhitecamp, the place from whence the Hamiltons of Silverton Hill take their title, has dwindled down to a small farm, which has repeatedly changed owners. This family broke ofi* from the ducal house in 1449. Sir Frederick Hamilton of Silverton Hill, Bart, collector of the East India Company's revenues at Benares, is the fourteenth in descent. Eamock, — The estate of Earnock, in the w^st of the parish, was for many generations the property of a family of the name of Ro- berton, the descendants of Robert, brother of Lambin Fleming, to whom Malcolm IV. gave these lands; part of which are now called Kennedies, and belong to Mr Roberton. Earnock was sold about fifty years ago to Mr Semple, and about 1810 to A. Millar, Esq. the present proprietor. Ross. — One-half of the lands of Ross or Inveravon were, by Robert Loudon, brother to Alexander II., conveyed to the monks of Kel- HAMILTON. 269 SO9 and the King granted a charter confirming the grant in 1222. Tlie half belonging to the monks was obtained by John, the brother of Walter Fitz Gilbert, about 1339, and the other half from Da- Tid, the son of Walter. Sir William Hamilton of Preston is the lineal representative of this family. The estate at present belongs to Captain Robertson Aikman. Motherwell. — The lands of Motherwell on the east of the Clyde, DOW in possession of the Hamilton family, were given by Malcolm IV. to a person of the name of Tancard, a Fleming, and his son, Thomas Fleming, disponed them to the monks of Paisley. There is a famous well here, dedicated formerly to the Virgin Mary, and hence the name Mother-well. Nieldand. — Nielsland was probably part of the territories of the Crocs of Crocstoun, who had the lands of Nielstone in Renfrewshire. This estate belonged, as far back as 1549, to John Hamilton de Nielsland. The first of this family was a younger son of Hamilton ofBaploch. In 1723, Grizel Hamilton, as sole proprietrix of Niels- land, &C, sold these lands to Margaret Bryson, widow of Mr John Muir, minister of Kilbride, in whose hands, and those of her heir, it remained for a few years. It is now the property of David Mar- shall, Esq. Bamcluith, — The estate of Barncluith belonged in ancient times to a family of the name of Machan, and came into the possession of a younger son of Sir Robert Hamilton of Bruntwood by marriage. Lord Pressmennan, a Senator of the College of Justice, and many other eminent individuals, were of this family. Of late, it became by marriage the property of Lord Ruthven. Allanshaw, Darngaber, Edlewood, Mirritoun, and Udstoun, formerly seats of different branches of the Hamiltons, are now mere farms. The Hamiltons of Fairliolm, descendants of the fourth son of Thomas Hamilton of Darngaber, are still a good family in the south-east side of this parish. Antiquities — Cadzow Castle. — The most prominent antiquity in the parish is Cadzow Castle, already alluded to.* It stands in Hamilton-wood, on the summit of a precipitous rock ; the base of vhich is washed by the Avon. It is not known who were its found- ers; although it is probable that Caw or Cay was the first of the royal race who took up their residence in this quarter. It con- tinued in the possession of the Crown until it was granted by Robert the Bruce to Sir Walter Fitz Gilbert. Ever since, with only two short • Datid I. dates his charter to the High Church of Glasgow from Cadzow Castle. 270 LANARKSHIBE. interruptions, it has been in the hands of his descendants. The first of the interruptions alluded to was about the year 1581, when it fell for a short time into the hands of Captain Stewart. The other sus- pension (equally short in duration) was in 1654, when, by Crom- well's act of grace and pardon, William Duke of Hamilton, de- ceased, was excepted from all benefit thereof, and his estates for- feited ; reserving out of them L. 400 per annum, to his Duchess during her life, and after her death, L. 100 per annum, to each of his four daughters, and their heirs for ever. The Castle of Cad- zow seems to have been repaired at different periods. The keep, with the fosse around it, a narrow bridge on the south, over the fosse, and a well inside, are still in good preservation, and are all of polished stone, of a reddish colour. Several vaults, and the walls, probably, of the chapel, and other offices, are still visible. Cadzow Castle has been celebrated in a fine ballad by Sir Wal- ter Scott. The Castle of Darngaber (t. e. the " house between the waters," or, as some have supposed, the " hiding place of the goats,") in the S. E. side of the parish, is said to have been built by Thomas de Hamilton, son of Sir John de Hamilton, Dominus de Cadzow. Its ruins stand on a small knoll at the extremity of a tongue of land, where two rivulets meet. The foundations only of this ancient fortress can now be traced. They are entire- ly of flat shingly stones, without lime, and seem never to have been subjected to a tool. Small vaults have been discovered, which are not arched, but drawn together as conduits sometimes are. It is probable, therefore, that Thomas de Hamilton did not build, but only repaired, this Castle. The most perfect, and indeed, the only tumulus, properly speak- ing, in this parish, is at Meikle Earnock, about two miles south of Hamilton. It is at present about 12 feet diameter, and 8 feet high. It was formerly much larger, and hollow at the top. When broken into, several urns were found, containing the ashes of hu- man bones, some of them accompanied by the tooth of a horse. There was no inscription seen, but some of the urns, which were all of baked earth, were plain, and others decorated with moulding, probably to distinguish the quality of the deceased. In the haugh, to the north of the palace, there is an ancient moat-hill, or seat of justice. It appears to be about 30 feet dia- meter at the base, and about 15 or 16 feet high, and is flat at the top. When it stood formerly in the midst of the town, it formed part of the garden of an alehouse, and was dressed with the spade. HAMILTON. 271 and adorned with plants. It cannot be less than eight or nine hun- dred years old, as no erections of the kind have been in use since the reign of Malcolm Canmore. — Near the moat-hiil is an ancient stone cross, about 4 feet high, bearing no inscription. It is said to have been the cross of the Netherton. In the south side of the parish a remarkable stone, about 6 feet high, but leaning considerably to one side, gives the name ** Crook- ed Stone" to the district. It is of freestone, and evidently very an- cient Mr Chalmers notices these bended stones as cromlechs, of Dniidical origin. A neighbouring farmer lately set it upright; leav- ii^ posterity to wonder why it was called ^* crooked stone." Among the antiquities of this place may be recorded the gardens at Bamcluith. There are here three dwelling-houses and three gardens, namely, an orchard, a kitchen, and flower- garden. The flower garden is cut out of a steep bank on the Avon, two or three hundred feet high, and is divided into five terraces. These are flanked by terrace walls, covered with espaliers of va. rious descriptions. The borders of the walks are crowded with a variety of evergreens cut into fantastic forms. In the centre of the great walk is a handsome pavilion, fitted up with rustic chairs, and other curious pieces of furniture. Here a pair of house-martins have constructed a nest on the skeleton of a dolphin's head, which is nailed to the wall above the fire-place. These gardens and buildings were probably constructed by John Hamilton of Barn- duith, commissary of Hamilton and Campsie, about 1583. This individual was son of Quintin Hamilton, who was killed fighting in the Queen's cause at the battle of Langside. Tradition says he was deeply skilled in mathematics. Palace. — Hamilton Palace was originally a square tower, about 20 feet long, and 16 feet wide. The old part of the house, as it now stands, was erected about 1591 ; and it was afterwards almost entirely rebuilt about 130 years ago. The front (now the back) bmg the south, was ornamented with pillars of the Corinthian order ; and two deep wings were added, in the form of a Roman R,much inHhe style of Greenwich Hospital. In 1822, additions, on an extensive scale, were begun under the present Duke by Mr Hamilton, as architect, and Mr Connel, (builder of Burns' Monu- ment at Ayr,) as builder, which promise to render the Palace of HaoDulton one of the largest and most magnificent structures of the kind in Britain. The modern part consists of a new front, £icing the north, 264 feet 8 inches in length, and three stories 272 LANARKSHIRE. high, with an additional wing to the west, for servants' apartments, 100 feet in length. A new corridor is carried along the back of the old building, containing baths, &c. The front is adorned by a noble portico, consisting of a double row of Corinthian columns, each of one solid stone, surmounted by a lofty pediment. The shaft of each column is upwards of 25 feet in height, and about 3 feet 3 inches diameter. These were each brought in the block about eight miles from a quarry in Dalserf, on an immense waggon constructed for the purpose, and drawn by thirty horses. The prin- cipal apartments, besides the entrance hall, are, the tribune, a sort of saloon or hall, from which many of the principal rooms enter ; a dining-room, 71 by 30; a library and billiard-room ; state bed- rooms, and a variety of sleeping apartments ; a kitchen-court, &c. The gallery, 120 feet by 20, and 20 feet high, has also been tho- roughly repaired. This, like all the principal rooms, is gilded and highly ornamented with marble, scagliolo, and stucco-work. The stables and offices, now erecting between the town and the Palace, are every way worthy of the splendid edifice of which they are an appropriate accompaniment. The palace stands close upon the town, on the upper border of the great valley, about half a mile west of the conflux of the Clyde and Avon. As a curious statistical fact, we may state, that there were employed in building the addition to the palace 28,056 tons, 8 cwts. and 3 quarters of stones, drawn by 22,528 horses. Of lime, sand, stucco, wood, &c. 5534 tons, 6 cwt., 1 quarter, 7^ lbs., drawn by 5196 horses. In drawing 22,350 slates, 62,200 bricks, with engine ashes, and coal-culm to keep down the damp, 731 horses were employed. Total days dur- ing which horses were employed for other purposes, 658^. In the stables, there are 7976 tons of stones, drawn by 5153 horses. Of lime, sand, slates, &c. 1361 tons, drawn by 1024 horses; besides 284 days of horses employed for other purposes. The stables, according to plan, are only about half-finished. Picture Gallei'y. — The interior equipments of Hamilton Palace are not less tasteful or magnificent than its exterior, and are a fair counterpart of the gorgeous pile in which they are contained. The collection of paintings, now greatly on the increase, has been long considered the best in Scotland. Daniel in the lion's den is a no- ble picture, and has often been described and admired. The por- traits of Charles I. in armour on a white horse, and of the Earl of Denbigh in a shooting dress, standing by a tree, with the muzzle of a gun grasped in his right hand, and the butt of it resting on HAMILTON. 273 the ground, with a little black boy on the opposite side of the tree pointing out the game — both by Vandyke — are also master-pieces of art An entombment of Christ by Poussin, an Ascension piece by Greorgione, a dying Madona by Corregio, a stag-hunt by Sney- der, a laughing boy by L. Da Vinci, and an admirable portrait of Napoleon by David, painted from life, by permission granted to the present Duke of Hamilton, are all well known works of art of great value. The east staircase contains a large altar-piece by Girolamo dai Libri, from San Lionardo nel Monte, near Verona, of the Castieri family, with a Madona and child placed in a chair above them — {vide Vasari, edition 1648.) In the breakfast-room is a picture by Giacomo da Puntormo of Joseph in Egypt receiv- ing his father and his brothers, into which is introduced the por- trait of Beronzino: {vide Vasari.) In the same room, by Luca Sig- Dorelli, the circumcision of the infant Christ, supposed to have been painted by Sodoma: {vide Vasari, edition 1648 :) and a portrait by Artonelli of Myeena, said to have been the first painter in oil, 1,474. This is still in a state of admirable preservation. The great gallery and principal apartments contain also a large collection of femily portraits, and other paintings, by Vandyke, Kneller, Ru- bens, Corregio, Guide, Rembrandt, Titian, the Carraccis, Salva- tor Rosa, Carlo Dolce, Guercino, Georgione, Poussin, Spagno- letti, Reynolds, Hamilton, &c. Here, if anywhere in Scotland, is " An art akin to nature's self, So mighty in its means, we stand prepared To see the life as lively mocked, as ever Still sleep mocked death." A number of antique vases adorn the principal rooms, particu- larly one in the new dining-room, of giallo-antico, in the form of a tripod, of great beauty, and of extraordinary dimensions, being 5 feet 3 inches in height, 14 feet 3 inches in circumference, and 9^ inches deep. The vase itself is supported by a circular central pil- lar of beautiful form, 'richly carved and fluted, and with three square fiuted pilasters at the sides, each resting on a lion's foot, and termi- iiating with a lion's head — the whole standing on a base of beautiful African marble. In the breakfast-room and small drawing-room are two slabs of porphyry upon gilt bronze legs, formerly composing part of an altar-piece at Rome. Both slabs are of oriental por- phjTv, of equal size, and of great beauty. In an adjoining room there is a cabinet covered with a slab of Malachite {Cuprum ^rwjo^ iin.) of the most splendent lustre imaginable. There are also a great many antique cabinets in the different apartments, enriched 274 LANARKSHIRE. with Mosaic and all sorts of precious stones ; particularly a casket of ebony ornamented with gilt bronze, and oriental stones in re* lief, formerly belonging to the Medici family. At the upper end of the gallery is the present Duke's ambassadorial throne, brought from his embassy at St Petersburgh, and placed between two an- tique magnificent busts of oriental porphyry, the one of Augustus and the other of Tiberius ; and on the walls, on each side of the throne, are two capital portraits of George III. and Queen Char* lotte, painted soon after their marriage. Fronting the throne, at the other end of the gallery, is a magnificent large architectural door of black marble, the pediment being supported by two orien- tal columns of green porphyry, unique in their kind, and supposed to be the finest of that material in Europe. These will afford a faint idea of the gorgeous splendour which reigns within the walls of Hamilton Palace. The collection of pictures may amount to about 2000 pieces, of which about 100 are at Chatelherault The value of the prints alone in the Duke's possession, none of which are ever exhibited to strangers, and many parcels of which, I be- lieve, are not yet unfolded, are worth from L. 10,000 to L. 15,000. It is impossible to form any idea of the value of the paintings. Many of the cabinets are worth L. 1500; and a single table has been estimated at L. 4000. The value of the plate, including a magnificent gold set, is probably about L. 50,000. Eamock House^ Sfc. — Eamock House is pleasantly situated on the higher grounds, in the west, amidst abundance of plantations. It is a modern square building, well adapted for a gentleman of mo- derate fortune. It has very fine pleasure grounds, and an excel- lent garden, tastefully laid out, and furnished with glass-houses both for fruits and plants. The houses at Ross, Fairhill, and Grovemount, are also large and handsome buildings, abounding with whatever can contribute to convenience or comfort. There are also respectable residences at Nielsland, Fairholm, and Edle- wood. There is a curious fog-house at Grovemount, of great di- mensions, tastefully conceived, and skilfully executed, which cost a considerable sum in fitting up. New Prison, Src. — On Tuesday, 10th June 1834, the foundation stone of the new prison and public offices was laid at Hamilton, with masonic honours.* The offices consist of a distinct building • The glass vessel containing the coins, newspapers, &c. having been deposited be- neath the plinth of one of the intended columns in front of the public offices, was dexterously dug into on the night of the 2d November 1834, and the most valuable part of the hoarded treasure extracted. The thieves who thus bearded justice in its own peculiar domains have not yet been detected. HAMILTON. 275 iQ front of the prison, of two stories. In the west end, in the lower flaty there are three rooms for the sheriff-clerk, with a record- room. The town-derk has four rooms in the east end. In the centre, there is a court room, 37 feet long, and 32 broad. In the upper story, there is a large hall, for county meetings, &c. 47 feet 10 inches by 32 feet, with an adjacent room, 15 feet by 12 feet l^ bch. The prison, which stands at a little distance behind, is three stories high. It is 80 feet 9 inches in length, and 32 feet 4 inches in breadth, comprising in all 45 cells, and 6 water-closets, with a large day room for debtors, 19^ feet by 13, and four other rooms for them, each 9 feet by 7^, besides two day rooms for other prisoners. The first flat, with 12 cells, is to be used as a Bride- well The second flat has 16 cells and 4 day rooms. The up- per flat is to be appropriated to debtors. It also contains separate apartments for females. The governor's house stands between tbe pubUc ofiices and the prison. In the under story, there is a kitchen, a servants' room and bed-room, and a bath for the gaol. There are four apartments in the upper story. The prison and goremor's house are to be surrounded with a wall 15 feet high, iodosiog a large court, half an acre in extent. These buildings are now in a forward state. They stand on the high grounds, to the west of the town, on the Blantyre road, near the Cavalry Bar- racks. The old prison and court-hall at the Cross, built in the reign of Charles I., are soon to be demolished. The present town-hall, near the old gaol, has also been bought up. The butcher-market, with shambles, stand on the brink of Cadzow bum, near the middle of the town. This is a modern erection of •^pectable appearance. The meal-market, in the Muir Wynd, bas long been in disuse. The public fire-engines, ladders, &c. are kept here. There are other fire-engines belonging to the pa- lace and barracks ; and an old ladder is pointed out, which is said to have been used at public executions. The Cavalry Barracks are much in the style of those at Perth and Edinburgh. Besides stables, with accommodation above for the men, there are officers' barracks, an hospital, and riding-room. These occupy a large «pace of ground/ and are surrounded by a high wall. III. — Population. The state of the population at different times is as follows : Years. Population. Years. Population. Years. Population. 1755, 3815 1801, 5911 18'21, 7613 1791, 5017 1811, 0453 1831, 9513 The total increase, since 1755, is 5698, or about 75 per annum. 276 LANARKSHIRE. From a census taken some months ^o, and which seems to be ac- curate, there has been an increase of 309, which may be attri- buted to the introduction and flourishing condition of a lace-ma- nufactory, which now employs a great many females. Out of 9d22 males and females, there are in this parish : mUakm. Agt, jypmSalkm. Age, 1-313 uodcr 6 6^$ - 50 to 00 1-247 . 5 to 10 «28 60 to 70 tfl027 . 10 to -20 218 70 to 80 1614 . 20 to 30 39 upwards of 80 1200 - 30 to 4«> 913 . 40tojO 9^22 Pofmlatioa of the town, by census 1831, 7490 in Tillages, - do. 500 in the eountrj, do. 1523 The following tables of births, marriages, and deaths, are from authentic sources. The baptisms in the parish church for the last seven years were as follows : Vcart. Baptisms. Marriages. .Dfoths. Fearw. Baptisms. 145 1827. 146 83 177 1831, 1828, 137 69 196 1832, 162 1829, 124 65 248 1833, 136 1830, 150 97 157 Marriagts. DetOu. 79 261 75 267 96 220 The average of baptisms is 140 ; and, if to these we add 200 for the Dissenters, the whole will be 343. Considerably more than 200 per annum are baptized in the meeting-houses of the Dissenters ; but a large proportion of these are from neighbouring parishes. The average of marriages is 81. The average of deaths is 218. The number of males and females who died in each month, between November 1832 and November 1833^ is as follows : Months. Males. Females. November, 11 15 December, 10 6 January, 11 7 February, 9 9 March, 9 8 April, 10 8 Mantlts. Males. Females. May, 10 8 June, 12 10 July, 15 21 A ugust. . 7 16 September, 4 10 October, 19 22 60 53 67 87 The whole gives 127 males, and 140 females. This was the year of the cholera, — a disease which carried off many individuals, par- ticularly females. There appears in this parish to be one baptism per annum to 27 persons, one burial to 45, and one marriage to 117 nearly. Throughout the whole of England the proportion is 33, 49, and 120 ; and in Wales, 37, 60, and 136. The advantage is every way on the side of the above countries ; but this does not proceed from any superiority in their climate or mode of living, but merely from the fact, that the averages above alluded to, take in HAMILTON. 277 town and country, whereas as regards this parish, they refer only to a manufacturing population, a great proportion of whom are doomed to damp shops, stooping postures, meager fare, and long hours. The rural districts of Scotland offer very different results. The following is the number who died monthly, between 1833 and 18d4. It will be found to fall short of the corresponding year above by 20 ; the number buried in the Relief burying-ground, are not included in this list. NomnbcTy 14 February, 19 May, 22 August, 15 December, 14 March, 15 June, 14 September, 18 January, 19 AprU, 11 July, 13 October, 26 47 45 49 59 There are on an average about 10 still-bom children per annum. In the cholera year there were 14. Some people occasionally ar- rive here at a great age ; but there are few at present above ninety. The property of the parish is possessed by 133 heritors. Be- sides the noble family, there are about eight gentlemen of indepen- dent fortune. Sixteen individuals occupy land to the value of L. 50 per annum, and upwards. There are about 38 unmarried men, 50 Tears of age and upwards ; 150 widows, and about 100 unmarried women, above 45. The number of families in the town is 1670 ; and in the country, 388. The average number of children in each family is 4^. There are 710 inhabited houses in the town, and 303 in the country. About 8 houses are now building, and none are un- inhabited. Number of insane, fatuous, blind, deaf, dumb, 15. Many poor persons of this class were cut off in 1833. During the last three years there have been 110 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. FamiUes connected with agriculture, (farmers 40, labourers 95,) - 135 ^>le$ employed in manufactures, (in the town, 1135, in the country, 122,) 1257 ^>les employed in retail trade, and handicraft, (in the town, 639, in country, 102,) 741 Merchants, bankers, and professional men, (in the town, 112, in the country, 24) '136 *^urers not agricultural, (in the town, 193, in the country, 59,) - 252 ^^ not included in the above classes, (in the town, 535, in the country, 131,) 666 ^e-fervants above 20 years, (in the town, 16, in the country, 14,) - 30 Uile.fienrant8 under 20 years, (in the town, 3, in the country, 2,) - 5 denude servants, (in the town, 170, in the country, 127,) - - 297 Agriculture. — The surface of this parish may thus be divided. Coarse and waste lands, _ - - 2040 acres. Woods, ... - - 2000 Channels of rivers, sites of towns, villages, and roads, 2100 Orchards, . - - - 100 Arable, ... - 8000 14,240 The whole of this district is remarkably well-fenced and wood- LANARK. T 278 LANARKSHIRE. ed; and when seen from the higher grounds on the east of the Clyde^ appears like a large well-fltodLed orchard or garden. The coarse and waste lands are chiefly on the outskirts of the parish, in the south and west. The principal woods are Bar- Michael wood, (Michael's Fort,) near Both well Bridge, Ross wood on the Clyde, and Hamil- ton wood on the Avon, and Barncluith burn. Spontaneous coppices rise every where, near the sides of the rivers and bums, and where- ever the banks obtain a sufficient elevation, they are entirely veiled in a mass of foliage. Forest trees of all kinds, capable of standing the climate of Scotland, thrive, especially in the lower parts of the parish. Sopne of them attain to a great age. On poor land in high exposures, the larch, since it has been introduced, has thriven better than any others. Next to it is the Scots fir. The silver fir, the spruce, the Pinus bahamea or Balm of Gilead fir, the pitch pine, and the Pinus Canadensis are also often planted. In one place the Pinus cedrus^ or cedar of Lebanon, has attained a good- ly size. But in Hamilton wood there is little or no fir, and the hard- wood is abundant. The " old oaks" behind Cadzow Castle cover se- veral hundred acres, and are evidently of great antiquity.* Many of the trees have attained an enormous size, measuring 36 feet in cir- cumference. One near Wood House, called the " boss tree," is ca- pable of containing at one time eight individuals of the ordinary size. The chase in which these venerable comhaters of time are now vege- tating is browzed by about four-score white cows of the ancient Bri- tish breed. Their bodies are milk-white, their ears, muzzles, and hoofs black, and the shin in front, above the hoof, is mottled with black. They are perfectly docile, except when they have calves. On these occasions they manifest an uncommon attachment to their young, by carefully concealing them when dropt, and defending them when attacked. The varieties of the ox are very numerous, and mav be multiplied to almost any extent. This variety bears the greatest resemblance in colour to the Madagascar, Tinian, and African ox. A good many fallow deer are fed in a field on the opposite bank of the Avon. Orchards. — The cultivation of the orchards, although not carried to such a length, nor perhaps so well understood as in some of the neighbouring parishes, is still not entirely neglected. A great^pfo- portion of the houses both in the town and country have gardens • Some of these are English oaks, supposed to have been planted by King David^ fir^t Earl of Huntingdon, about the year 1140. HAMILTON. 279 or orchards attached to them ; and when the fruit sold better than at present, these sometimes brought considerable sums. Pears thrive better than apples. The jargonelle, when on the wall, arrives here at great perfection. Some very large crops have been gathered of late. Currants, gooseberries, and other small fruit are also cultivated in lai^ge quantities, and mostly disposed of at Glasgow. The goose- berries, however, have been greatly deteriorated of late in quality, by the injudicious practice of introducing new sorts from England, which is naturally not so good a climate for gooseberries as Scot- land. . EuAandry. — The crops sown here are, wheat, oats, pease, beans, barley, hay, some flax, and great quantities of potatoes. Wheat K raised on all the lands on the Clyde, and also on some of the Sums in the higher part of the parish. It is either sown on fallow or after potatoes, but seldom after oats or pease and beans. The time of sowing is from the end of August to the 1st of November. The quantity sown is from 7 to 12 pecks, Linlithgow measure, per Scots acre; the produce from 8 to 16 bolls of the same mea- sure. Oats is the principal spring corn. From two-thirds to three- fourths of the land tilled is sown with this seed. Late seed is sown on the lower and earlier grounds, and early seed on the higher and later grounds. Tweeddale and Blainsley oats have long been known. The Polish, Essex, Friesland, or great Dutch and red oats have also been tried. But of the new sorts the potato oat is the best. From 12 to 18 pecks, county measure, are sown on the acre; and the produce varies from 4 to 18 bolls. Pease and beans are chiefly ^ised on the lower grounds. These are, for the most part, or- tlinary horse-beans, and a kind of late gray pease, usually accom- panying them. From 14 to 18 pecks, wheat measure, are sown on an acre, and they sometimes yield as much as 18 bolls of the ^e measure. Formerly a considerable quantity of barley of an excellent quality was produced here, particularly in the lower parts **ftbe parish; but the backward springs, and cold inconstant ^nmmers, which began to prevail towards the end of last cen- ^, have almost banished it from this quarter of the country. It • •s now seldom sown, except for the purj^ose of cleaning and pre- Nng land for the reception of artificial grasses. Hed, white, and yellow clover, rye-grass, &c. are cultivated for hay and pasture, *nd no person now lays down land to rest without sowing the seeds <>f these plants upon it. The produce of hay is from one to three ^ns per acre, besides an after-growth, which is generally pastured 280 LANARKSHIRE, on, or cut for green food, the autumn being seldom favourable for making it into hay. A little flax is occasionally sown for domestic use. Rye thrives well below trees, and might be profitably intro- duced into orchards. A great many new, or natural grasses, have been brought into cultivation ; but it remains to be seen whether this practice will turn out most profitable to the agriculturist or the seedsman. Potatoes are planted from the middle of April to the middle of May, principally in drills made by the plough. Many families in the town take small plots of ground for the season, from the neighbouring farmers, which they plant with this root. Large fields of potatoes are also sold in lots to the town's people when they are ready for digging. Upwards of twenty«four tons have been taken from an acre. Eighty bolls were this season produiced on a single acre, about two miles from Hamilton. The rare oc- currence of famines in the present day is chiefly to be attributed to the abundance of this root; and yet, Cobbet, to establish a theory, would deprive the poor of this table, which " God has prepared for them in the presence of their enemies." The potatoes threat- ened a failure in some places about the end of the summer. When the diseased plants were pulled up, the seed was found to swarm with little black worms or maggots ; but whether these anunals were the cause of the disease, or the mere attendants of that cor- ruption by which it was followed, we are not prepared to decide. The culture of carrot, turnips, cabbage, &c. is scarcely practised here, except in gardens. Turnips now sell at 3d. per stone, and carrots at 6d. The modes of cultivation and rotation of crops are so various that it is impossible to give any idea of the average quantity of land applied to any particular purpose. The dairy is here an ob- ject of considerable importance. The milk is mostly made into butter and butter-milk of excellent quality, and sold in the town. About 110 milk cows supply the town with sweet-milk. There are in the parish altogether about 900 dairy cows, besides young stock. The feeding of calves is also well understood, although a few still send slink or unfed veal to market ; a revolting prac- tice which, for the benefit both of seller and consumer, ought to be put down by law. The cows here are a slight variety of the Ayrshire breed. They arc a little longer in the leg, rounder in the body, and not quite so heavy in the hind quarters ; but hand- somer, and equally good milkers. They are mostly red-brown, more or less mixed with white. A moderately good milk-cow gives HAMILTON. 281 eight Scotch pints, or sixteen quarts a day; and many of them give upwards of twice that quantity. During the summer months cer- tain cows have been known to yield a pound of butter per day. This, however, is much beyond the average produce of the dairy, and it is perhaps near the truth when we average each cow at from L. 4 to L. d of profit per annum. Rent of Land, — The average rent of grazing is from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, 10s. per cow or ox. Farms are mostly let on leases of nineteen years ; but in some instances they are only let from year to year. The rent is paid in money, or occasionally in grain. The amount paid varies with the soil. In the higher grounds few spots let on permanent lease for less than 15s. per acre ; while in the lower farms on the Clyde the rent is as high as L. 3 and L. 3, 10s. per acre. A very lai^ proportion of the parish lets at from L. 1, 5s. to L. 2, 5s. per acre. Some fields near the town which have lain long in pasture have been let for a few years at upwards of L. 12 per acre. Much of the pasture in the haughs brings up- wards of L. 4 per acre. About 1500 cows and oxen are annually fed in this parish. The tilling of the ground employs about 280 horses. Witkie's iron plough is now almost universally used. Rate of Wages. — Labourers have from Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per day, with victuals, and 2s. without. When regularly employed their wages are from 9s. to 10s. per weeL Women have from 6d. to lOd. per day. Upwards of 130 masons are now employed at from 2s. lOd. to 3s. a-day. Mason's labourers have 10s. a-week; car- penters have about 2s. 8d. a day; or from 16s. to 18s. a week. Much has of late been done in fencing and draining. The hedges on the Duke's estate, in particular, are remarkably well kept. Among the disadvantages with which the agriculturist has to contend are, small farms, deficiency of capital, and competition for leases, by which too much is offered, and thus the farmer too frequently is little better than the servant of the laird ; at the same time, it ought to be remarked, that the rental of land is ge- nerally supposed to be somewhat lower here than in some other places in the neighbourhood. This may probably arise from the fact, that clay soils are cultivated at more expense than any other description, as requiring greater force of men, cattle and implements, and absorbing an immense quantity of manure. (Quarries. — There are six freestone quarries in the parish, wrought by upwards of fifty men. The number of colliers is about 120. The average gross rental of the landward part of the parish is 282 LANARKSHIRE. L. 11,537, 6s. 3d.; and of the burgh L. 8638, 4's. T^d. Total L. 20,175, 19s. lOd. nearly. Produce. — The average gross amount of produce raised, as far as can be ascertained, is as follows: Produce of grain of all kinds, - - L. 14,9^ Of hay, potatoes, &c. - - - - 7»336 Of lands in pasture, - - - - 6,000 Gardens, and orchards, - - - - 600 Coals, quarries, and metals, ... 3,000 Miscellaneous produce, - . - . 1 ,000 Total yearly value of raw produce, - L. 32,265 Cambric Weaving. — Hamilton has been the principal seat of imi- tation cambric weaving since the introduction of the cotton trade into Scotland. The reeds run from 1200 to 3000, which are the finest setts that cotton has been wrought into. The number of looms in Hamilton is 1291, and in the country 53. This was at one time a thriving branch of trade, which in the course of fifty years added to Hamilton whole streets of houses, chiefly built and inhabited by industrious weavers. For the last fifteen or twenty years, however, it has been on the decline ; and, if possible, is still getting worse. The average wages are from 6d. to Is. 6d. per day ; out of which must be deducted Is. a-week for expenses, and 10s. per annum for loom-rent. A house with a room and kitchen, and a four-loom shop, lets at from L. 5 to L. 6. Many of the older and more experienced hands better their circumstances considerably by teaching apprentices. The females are employed in winding weft, or in tambouring. Lace^Manufactory^ 8fc. — The old lace-manufactory of this place, which was introduced by one of the Duchesses of Hamilton, has for many years been all but extinct. But about eight years ago a Mr Galloch introduced a new manufactorv of lace, which was im- proved on by Mr John Gowans, and is still increasing. About twelve respectable houses are now engaged in this lucrative and thriving branch of trade, and new firms are daily forming. It employs upwards of 2500 females, in this and the neighbouring parishes. The lace is a sort of tamboured bobinette. Vast quantities of black silk veils of pecuUar patterns are also manufactured here. There is a great and increasing demand for both of the above ar- ticles throughout the whole of Britain, and also in America, and the colonies. A weaver's wife can make higher wages at this trade than her husband. Many thousands of check-shirts have of late been manufactured here, and sent out to Australasia. The stock- HAMILTON. 283 ing weaving, tanneries, saddle, and shoe trades seem to have dwin- dled away considerably, since the publication of the former Statis- tical Account. V. — Parochial Economy. Town, — The town of Hamilton stands on a rising ground, gent- ly sloping towards the east, about a mile west of the conflux of the Avon with the Clyde. Cadzow burn runs nearly through it. The ancient town stood farther to the east, in the Duke's plea- sure grounds, and was called the Netherton. That part of the present town which stands near the flesh-market and the public green, appears to be the most ancient. The rocks behind the flesh-market are about twenty feet high, and were once occupied by a mansion, called the Ha' or Hall, of which an antique dove-cot, (which gives the name of Doo-cot-ha' to the place) is the only me- morial now remaining. On the opposite side of the bum, stood a mill, called the Ha' Mill, which has given the name of ^^ Shilling Hill" to the street where it stood. When the tuuj touj or town collected round this place it was called Ha-mill-ton. So says tradition ; but history, which is more to be depended on, gives, as we have al* ready seen, a different and more satisfactory account. The date of the foundation of the lower town cannot now be ascertained. It has been long swept away. But that the upper town is also of great antiquity appears from the fact, that it was considerable enough to be erected into a burgh of barony in the year 1456 by James IL In 1548, Hamilton was created a royal burgh by Queen Mary ; but Bailies James Hamilton and James Naismith consented to resign that privilege in 1670, by accepting of a char- ter from Duchess Anne, by which Hamilton was constituted the chief burgh of the regality and dukedom of Hamilton. A law- suit was entered into by the magistrates, &c in 1723, before the Court of Session, for the restoration of their ancient rights ; but it was not till 1832, that the inhabitants were reinvested with the privi- lege of sending a member to the House of Commons. There are at present about 300 ten pound franchises upon the roll. At last municipal election, 126 voted on the radical interest, and 118 for the more moderate party. There were about 55 votes unpolled. The town is in the hands of a Provost, three Bailies, a Trea- surer, a Town-Clerk, and seven Councillors. Four new councillors are elected annually, the four eldest on the list going out. Revenues of the Town. — The revenues of the town are consider- able, and arise chiefly from lands within the burgh, and shares in k 284 LANARKSHIRE. Hamilton Bridge, &c. The sums received and paid out by the treasurer, from 5th November 1833, to 15th October 1834, are as under : Sums received. Sums paid. Rent Roll, - L. 1125 13 6 Among these, some of the most promi- Note charged in rent-roll, 160 2 nent are, Sums recovered, - 59 22 2 For new prison, - L. 329 3 9 Tlie following are some of the items of Minister's stipend, - 2 2 94 the above sums. Schoolmaster's salarj, &c, 32 11 1| Rental for crop, 1833, 608 12 11 Mortifications, - - 57 17 4 From shares of bridge, - 55 5 Public lamps, - - 155 16 4 Burgess Tickets, - 17 15 1 Support of streets, - 822 18 3 Customs, - - 39 3 94 Fire-engines and insurance, 8 3 4 Street manure, - - 21 9 I^w.suits, - - 228 15 8 Green and holtos crop 1834, 12 13 Road money, - - 46 Gas dividend, - - 14 ToUl discharge, includ- Tot. charge against Treasu- ing a great variety of rer,includ. other sums is L. 2613 17 2 difterent sums, . L. 2796 2 0| The town-court is held on Thursdays. This is also the seat of the Sheriff-court for the middle ward. About twenty-five procura- tors are licensed to practise before it ; of whom eighteen belong to Hamilton. The court day is Friday. The Justice of Peace Court sits on the first Monday of every month. There are also a record of seisins, a tax-office, a stamp- office, and an excise-oflSce. In 1816 a Trades Hall was erected in Church Street. There is a spacious hall in the upper storey for the meetings of the trades, while in the under flat there is every accommodation for a respect- able tavern. Besides numerous societies or trades, (which are all in terms of the act 5th William IV. chap. 40) there are a St John's Lodge No 7, and two other mason lodges, two gardener's societies, and a Wallace friendly society. Gas-Work. — A gas-work, on a very elegant plan, was erected in Hamilton by subscription, in the summer of 1831, at the expense of L.2400. Three hundred L. 10 shares were subscribed, of which L. 8 has only been uplifted, and from the advance in the price of such shares as have been transferred, there is a fair prospect of the subscribers being liberally remunerated for their outlay. From ex- periments made at this work by Mr Burns, the present maqager, it appears that a cubic foot of the richest cannel coal produces about 400 cubic feet of gas. The price of gas when sold by me- ter is 10s. per 1000 cubic feet, or Is. per 100 cubic feet. Every cubic foot is nearly equal to "five imperial gallons ; of course 500 imperial gallons only cost Is. which is at the rate of about dd. per puncheon. Besides private lights there are now about 130 gas lamps illuminated throughout the town for nine months in the HAMILTON. 285 year, from sunset to sunrise, with the exception of five nights at each full moon. Svpply of Water. — On Saturday, 24th May 1834, an attempt was made in this town to bring into operation the Burghs Police Bill (3 and 4 William IV. c. 46, 14th August 1833,) in whole or in part, but more especially as regarded bringing a better supply of water into the town. As the franchise in that case embraces all persons "occupying premises of the value of not less than L. 10," a great many individuals came forward and threw out the bill. It cannot, of course, be brought forward again in less than three years. It has since been proposed to form a water company, with a ca- pital of L. 2000, divided into 500 shares, of L. 4 each. The wa- ter is to be brought in pipes, from two different quarters ; the unit- ed distance of both places being .about three miles, and the aver- age diameter of the pipes in which it is to be brought three inches. This proposal is not yet carried into effect Means of Commtmicationj ^c. — Hamilton is lOf miles S. E. of Glasgow, 36 W. of Edinburgh, 15 N. W. of Lanark, 7 N. of Strathaven, and 8 miles S. of Airdrie. The market-day is Friday. This town, along with Falkirk, Lanark, LinUthgow, and Airdrie, has the privilege of sending a Member to Par- liament. There are in the parish about 15 miles of turnpike road, and about 30 miles of parochial roads. The great Glas- gow and London road passes through the town ; and also an Edin- burgh and Ayr road. This last was made in the year 1755, and, if we except the road between Glasgow and Edinburgh, was the first great turnpike road which was made in Scotland. A new road to Ayr was lately opened, about seven miles to the south of this. A great improvement is now making in Hamilton on the London road, for the purpose of avoiding the brae in Muir Street, and cutting off the awkward elbow at the cross. The new line of road is upwards of 700 yards in length. Above Hamilton Green it crosses the rivulet Cadzow by a stupendous bridge of three arches, each 6.0 feet span. The top of the parapet wall is about 60 feet above the bed of the burn. The contract is about L.2050. A handsome new bridge on the same line of road was lately thrown across the Avon. A few hundred yards above it, there is-an old bridge of three arches, which is said to have been built at a very remote period, at the expense of the monks belonging to the mo- nastery at Lesmahagow. Hamilton Bridge over the Clyde, on the Edinburgh road, is a handsome structure with five arches. It was 286 LANARKSHIRE. built by authority of an act of Parliament, and was finished in 1780. It is still burdened with pontage for foot-passengers. Both- well Bridge over the Clyde, on the road to Glasgow, is undoubted- ly the oldest structure of the sort in Lanarkshire. It is not known when it was built. It was till lately only 12 feet wide, but it has now 32 feet of road- way. There is a private bridge over the Avon at Fairholm, and another at Ross. The Glasgow and London mail-coach passes through Hamilton twice a-day; at thirty minutes past eight in the morning, for London, and at fifteen minutes before one in the afternoon for Glasgow. There are Glasgow and Edin- burgh bags at thirty minutes to eight morning, thirty minutes to twelve noon, and at five afternoon. There is also a post between Hamilton and Strathaven. The gross revenue of the post-office here is at an average L. 982 per annum. Thirty years ago there was only one coach on the Wednesdays between Hamilton and Glasgow ; at present there are seven coaches daily, besides the mail-coach. Other seven coaches daily pass and repass to places south of Hamilton. About 128 horses are kept in the town, of which number seventy are employed in this trade. Flesh-market — The number of cattle slaughtered in the sham- bles at Hamilton during the following periods is as follows : Cows S[ oxen. Calves. Sheep, Lambs. Hogs, From 1st April to 30th October 1831, 428 548 924 39 22 ^ 1st November to 30th April 1831, 445 534 960 202 19 1 St May to 3 1 St October 1 832, 311 420 1 029 835 1 1 1st November to 30th April 1832, 354 424 615 2 20 1st May to 1st October 1833, 270 310 859 758 13 Consumed in 42 months, - - 1808 2236 4387 1836 85 Ecclesiastical State. — The year 1585 is the epoch of the Pres- byteries of Lanark and Glasgow. About 1590, or earlier, the large Presbytery of Glasgow was dismembered, by the erection of the Presbyteries of Hamilton and Paisley. The parishes of Eagles- ham, Cathcart, and Carmunnock, belonged to Hamilton Presby- tery till 1596, when they were restored to Glasgow, and the parish of Kilbride substituted in their place. This Presbytery includes the fourteen parishes of the Middle Ward.* The oldest date in the Presbytery records is 6th September 1687. The oldest date in the parochial register is 15th January 1650. The books of the town-council go back only to 3d October 1701 ; but it is believed that many older ones, at a remote period, got into the possession of private individuals, and still exist. • A new Relief Presbytery has lately been e8tal)lished in this town, including tell congregations; Rev. Mr M*Farlane of Hamilton, Clerk. HAMILTON. 287 The ancient parish of Cadzow, now Hamilton, included former- ly the chapelry of Machan, (2. e. the " little plain,") now the pa- rish of Dalserf. Chalmers, in his Caledonia, (Vol. iii. p. 683,) informs us, that " David I. with consent of his son, Earl Henry, granted the church of * Cadihou,' with its pertinents, in perpe- tual alms to the church and bishops of Glasgow, and this grant was confirmed by the bulls of several popes, inter 1170 and 1186." The church of Cadzow, with the lands of Barlanerk and Badler- nock, became afterwards the appropriate prebend of the Dean of the see of Glasgow. In 1273, William Frazer, a younger son of the Frazers of Tweeddale, was Dean of Glasgow and Rector of Cadzow, when he was appointed Chancellor of Scotland. In 1454, Andrew Muirhead, a son of Muirhead of Sauchope, was Rector of Hamilton, and afterwards Bishop of Gla^ow. Hamilton, by the in- fluence of the first Lord Hamilton, was made a collegiate charge in 1451 ; and thereupon a new church was built with a choir, two cross aisles, and a steeple, all of polished stone, and highly orna- mented. It was finished in April 1462, and George de Graham appointed Provost. The patronage of this establishment was vest- ed in Lord Hamilton ; but the patronage of the parish church of Hamilton continued, as before, with the Bishop of Glasgow. Man- ses, gardens, and glebes were provided for the provost and eight prebends; besides a mande, garden and glebe, for a chaplainry, de- dicated to the Virgin Mary. There is a farm at Edlewood still called the chapel At the epoch of the Reformation, Mr Archi- bald Karry, " the vicar pensioner," had twenty merks yearly ; and the dean had L. 349 in money, 16 bolls of meal, 24 bolls of oats, and 24 capons yearly. A plate of the old collegiate church is given by Grose in his Antiquities of Scotland. This building continued till 1732. One of the cross aisles still remains, and is used as a burying-place by the Hamilton family. On a stone cross, on one of the walls, is cut out ** Galatians, chapter vi. verse 14." After Popery had been abolished in Scotland, and the Presby- terian form of worship introduced by the act 1588^ c. 99, had b§en established by that of 1592, c J 16 — two ministers were settled in Hamilton, upon a provision of eighteen chalders of victual. Read- ers or catechists seem also to have been appointed in this parish. In 1574, Mr John Davidson, minister, together with the kirk-land of Hamilton, had out of the third of the deanery of Glasgow L 82, 1 Is. Id., and out of the third of the priory of Blantyre, L27, 158. 6d., together with L.23, and 18 bolls of meal out of 288 LANARKSHIRE. the parsonage of Cambuslang. Mr Robert Raa, reader at Hamil- ton, had L. 22, 4s. 5d. of stipend. In 1590, Mr Davidson was first minister, and Mr Gavin Hamilton, second minister, of Hamilton. The latter had 4 chalders*and 4 bolls of bear, 1 chalder 4 bolls of meal, and 12 bolls of wheat Mr John Raa, reader, had out of the vicarage of Hamilton L. 4, 8s. lOd. and out of the deanery of Glasgow, L. 17, 15s. 6d. For many years after, there was only one minister, with a stipend payable out of the third of the dean- ery of Glasgow. By the act 1606, c. 1, the bishops were restored to their temporalities; and by 1617, c. 2, the manses, glebes, and other patrimony, with certain restrictions, were also restored. With the interruption only of the period of Cromwell's usurpation, epis- copacy continued down to 1689, when presbytery was fully restored* Soon after (May 13th 1692) Mr Robert Wylie, formerly minis- ter of Askirk, was admitted minister of Hamilton, on the under- standing, that, 9& formerly^ he was to have a colleague. In that view, an address was presented to the presbytery, praying leave to give a call to Mr Alexander Findlater, who having been lately set- tled in the parish of Avondale, was very reluctant to quit his flock. Strong objections were accordingly made by Mr Findlater and the commissioners from Hamilton, which ended in a reference by the presbytery to the synod. After a good deal of procedure, which was carried the length of suspending Mr Findlater for resisting to be removed to Hamilton, he at length complied, and was admitted as second minister, January 9, 1695. Mr Wylie, the first minister, complains that " the presbytery were so far from assisting him in getting Hamilton provided with another minister, conform to their promise to him at his entry, that they did, without any valid ground, what in them lay to impede the same." Of all the heritors who con- curred in attaining this desirable object, none was more anxious to carry the measure into execution than Anne Duchess of Hamilton. The present church stands on a high ground (at one period) to the south of the town; but it is now more centrical, from the streets which have been built to the south and west. The body of the church is a circle with four cross aisles. The design, which in ^neral is accounted very elegant, was by Adam the elder. It is capable of containing about 800 sitters. The minister of the first charge has a glebe of about twenty-seven acres, which was ex- cambed some years ago for three acres and a-half in the Ha- milton haughs. No manse has as yet been erected upon it. The minister of the second charge has a manse but no glebe. The HAMILTON. 289 stipeQd of both is the same, Damely, 16 chalders, half meal, half barley, payable iQ money, at the highest fiar prices of the county, L. 5 Sterling for communion elements, and L. 2, 15s. 6d. to each of the ministers, according to use and wont. The number of com- municants male heads of families is about 260. The charge is about to be uncoUegiated quoad sacra, A new church, capable of contain- ing 1100, and proposed to be in connection with the establishment, is now building.* Of the various sectaries prevailing here, the Relief is the most prosperous. There are two meeting houses of this persuasion, one built in 1761, in Muir Street; and another erect- edin Brandon Street in 1832. The old congregation give their pas- tor L 200 per annum, including a manse ; the second congregation give L 100 per annum, without a manse. An Antiburgher meeting bouse was erected at Blacks-well in 1761, and a New Light Burgher house, near the church, towards the end of last century. These are not iu so thriving a state as their neighbours. A tabernacle, in con-- wciiwi with the Congregational Union of Scotland, has lately been ro-opened in Black's-well, and an interim preacher appointed. The Old Scots Independents have a meeting house in an upper cham- ber in the Back-of-the-barns. The Macmillans or Cameroni- ^s have also preaching in a hall once a month, and are attempt- Uf to establish a station here. The Roman Catholics have public Worship once a month in the Mason's Lodge. It is well attend- ed by the Irish. The priest comes up from Glasgow. There are few of any other sect. There are several Bible and Missionary Societies, and also a very useful Orphan Society, for which fre- quent contributions are made. The collections at the church door ^n public occasions are usually from L. 12 to L. 18. Siittngs. Parish Church, 800 St John's Church 1 1()0 Relief Church, Muir Street, 1105 Relief Church, Brandon Street, 940 Antiburgher Church, Hlack's-well, . . . 582 New Light Burgher Church, ..... 700 Congregational Chapel Black's-well, . . . 240 Old Scots Independents, 70 5537 The Cameronians have lately obtained a disjunction from the congregation at Wishaw-town, and meet regularly here once a nionth ; as do also the Roman Catholics once in six weeks. The ' A proportion of not less than one-sixth of the whole is reserved for the poor. Kfty of the sittings are let at 28. each, and the rest rise by a graduated scale of fiW. on ««ch row till they reach 6$., which is the highest price of any in the church. 290 LANARKSHIRE. number of families Dissenting or Seceding is 907; of Roman Catholic families, 45. Educatioiu — Number of schools in this parish at last examina- tion, and the number of scholars attending each. - Schoiara* Grammar-school, - - - . - . 35 13 English schools, - - - 722 Boarding-school for young ladies, . - . ■ - . 20 Do. do. ■ • - - 50 Writing school, - - - ' - 80 English School, Low- Waters, - . 33 Do. do. Earnock, - - - 12 Do. do. Darngaber, - - - 45 The salary of the grammar-schoolmaster is L. 34, 4s. : and his fees may amount to L. 50. As session-clerk he has about L. 30 per annum. The fees paid at the grammar-school are 7s. 6d. for Latin, and lOs. 6d, for L#atin and Greek, per quarter. The ladies' school fees are from 5s. to 10s. 6d. per quarter. The grammar-school of Hamilton is of ancient date,, and has no doubt been instrumental in producing that superior civilization, courtesy of manners, and ardent pursuit of . literature, for which many of the inhabitants of the place are : supposed to be distinguish- ed. In 1588 we find Lord John Hamilton granting a bond, still in possession of the corporation, settling for ever on that school the yearly sum of L.20 pounds Scots. The present school-house is a venerable pile, near the centre of the town, containing a long wainscotted hall, emblazoned with the names of former scholars, cut out in the wood, as at Harrow. Many of these are from fo- reign climes, and from all parts of Britain. Pillans, Whale, Gil- lies, and other eminent teachers have been masters of this school ; and the present teacher, the Rev. George Shaw, is not inferior in classical attainments, assiduity and success as a teacher, to any of his predecessors. The ladies' schools have also been of great ser- vice in instructing the understandings, and in contributing to the accomphshments, useful and ornamental, of the female sex. The Hamilton Sabbath School Society has under its charge 7 schools and 238 scholars. The number of scholars attending the Societies' schools are not so numerous as formerly, as a number of the town clergy have commenced Sabbath schools connected with their own congregations. These schools include above 300 young persons. Library^ 4'c, — There is a public subscription library in the town, which was instituted in 1808, principally through the instrumen- tality of the late Dr John Hume. It now contains upwards of HAMILTON. 291 dOOO volumes. For many years it prospered exceedingly ; but since the managers began to be chosen by popular election it has been gradually on the decline. There are several other public libraries, but all of them are on a smaller scale. — A mechanics' institution was established about eight years ago, a good library collected, and lectures delivered regularly once a fortnight on a variety of interesting topics ; but as soon as the novelty of the thing ceased, its supporters gradually dropt away. But the inhabitants of this parish are not singular in preferring that sort of knowledge which costs the least trouble and expense. It has revived again with great spirit. Poor. — The charitable institutions and other provisions made for the poor of this parish are considerable. 1. The Duke's Hospital. This is an old building, with a bel- iry and a bell, at the Cross of Hamilton, which was erected in lieu of one which formerly stood in the Netherton. The pen- sioners used to reside here, but it is now more profitably let out for their behoof. It contributes to the support of 12 old men, at the rate of L. 8, 18s. each per aniium, with a suit of clothes once in two years. It is proposed to increase the number to 15. 2. Aikman's Hospital. This hospital was built and endowed in 1775 by William Aikman, Esq. proprietor of an estate in the parish, and some time merchant in Leghorn. The house stands in Muir Street Four poor men have here, a free house, L.4 per annum, and a suit of clothes every second year. 3. Rae's Mortification. Mr John Rae, and a few other well- disposed people, formerly inhabitants, mortified money to the care of the town-council, the interest of which, L. 9, 2s. 4d., appointed for the relief of poor householders, is mostly paid to the poor yearly. 4. Robertson and Lyon's Mortification. Mr Robertson was a native of Hamilton, and sometime sheriff-clerk of Lanark. It con- tributes L. 4 yearly to nine poor men. 5. Miss Christian Allan, who died in 1785, bequeathed to the care of the kirk-session, for the behoof of the poor, L. 50, the in- terest of which is paid yearly. Besides the above, the kirk-session have, — 1. An orchard at Faimeygair, left some years ago by Mr Wil- liam Torbet, which lets at L. 10 per annuip. 2. A legacy of L. 50, the interest of which is to be divided among five poor female householders named by the kirk-session. 292 LANARKSHIRE. 3. A legacy of L. 50, of which little more than L. 30 was rea- lized, to be expended in clothing the most indigent of the poor. 4. A donation of L. 100, the interest to be applied in educating twelve poor children. The collections at the church door amount per annum to about L.90; average amount of mortcloth dues per annum, L. 30. The average weekly number of persons on the session funds is 14. There are 238 poor people on the parish, supported at the rate of about L. 14 per week, or L. 800 nearly per annum. The allowance to each individual is from 6d. to 2s. 6d. per week. Im- mense numbers of beggars go about seeking alms; and people with passes from Glasgow (often forged) are numerous and trouble- some. Of late, many little children, from six to twelve years oi age, are permitted to beg from door to door. Something ought to be done, for the sake of these poor creatures themselves, to put down this practice ; as it is well known that their parents are often able enough to work, and do work, but take this cheap mode of sup- porting their miserable oflFspring. Prison, — The old prison in Hamilton was built in the reign of Charles I., and, although a handsome building in its day, has now gone much into disrepair. It has been bought up, and will soon all be removed, except the steeple, town clock, and bell As this is the place of confinement for the delinquents of the Middle Ward, it may not be uninteresting to show the number ol debtors and criminals confined here for the last twelve years. Be- sides the following, it ought, however, to be recollected, that manj prisoners from this ward are taken to Glasgow. Year, Criminalt* Debtors, Year. Criminals, Debtors, 1830, 82 46 1831, 84 31 1832, 102 48 1833, 98 54 1834, 61 to 12th July 23 827 475 It would appear that criminals are on the increase and debtors on the decrease. Fairs, — Hamilton in former times was a great mart for lint and wool, and was attended by persons from all parts of the country. At present, however, that trade has taken a different channel, and only a small quantity of lint (and no wool) is now sold here. Our fairs have in consequence dwindled into a mere shadow of what they once were, q^id at present are little better than larger market days. There are five principal fairs m the year. 1823, 45 50 1824, 40 50 1825, 46 32 1826, 50 36 1827, 77 44 1828, 70 31 1829, 69 27 HAMILTON. 293 The absurd practice of keeping up the old and new style is still obflerved in our fairs ; but, fortunately, the terms are now all kept hj the new style. BmSfSfc, — There are two inns in the town which keep post chaises, one that hires out gigs and cars. There are several excellent and f&j respectable secondary inns and taverns for the accommoda- tioD of travellers, &c There are 110 pubUc-houses in the town and parish, in which anient spirits or malt liquors are sold. Miscellaneous Observations. An English traveller who visited Scotland in 1723, thus de- scribes the people : " The common people wear all bonnets, in- stead of hats ; and although some of the townsmen have hats, they wear them only on Sundays, and extraordinary occasions. There is nothing of the gaiety of the English, but a sedate gravity in every &oe, without the stiffness of the Spaniards; and I take this to be owbg to their praying and frequent long graces, which gives their looks a religious cast. Certainly no nation on earth observes the S^th with that strictness of devotion and resignation to the will of God. They all pray in their families before they go to church, ^ between sermons they fast ; after sermon, everybody retires ^ bis own home, and reads some book of devotion till supper, ^bicb is generally very good on Sunday, after which they sing psalms till they go to bed. There is no dinner prepared on the Sabbath, and, in inns, travellers are obliged to put up with bread ^d butter, or a fresh egg, or fast till after the evening sermon, *hen they never fail of a hot supper." According to custom, the eating department forms a considerable item in this English gen tie- r's account. But the fasting here spoken of, and what relates ^ dress, (and, it is to be feared, some other practices,) have long passed away. About the middle of last century, and a good deal later, the prac- ^ce of hard drinking was very common. About the time of the Ame- ^can war, politics and infidelity began to be introduced. Of late a ^^tion has taken place. Infidelity is no longer fashionable, and re- gion is now either warmly embraced, or, if neglected in its essen- ^ duties and requirements, it is uniformly spoken of with respect. Trade has also been equally fluctuating as manners, religion, and Diorals. At one period the malting trade formed no inconsiderable branch of industry in this town. Many memorials of this trade are ^ to be found, and the richest and oldest society in Hamilton is Lanark. u 294 LANARKSHIRE. the Society of Maltsters, although no such employment, as a distinct branch of trade, is now carried on. The linen trade, which at one period supported so many of the town's people, is now also nearly extinct The imitation cotton cambric trade, which in 1792 had 'reached its maximum, has for many years been on the decline ; and it is to be feared that the formidable combinations among the weavers may in time cause the manufacturers either to invent new machinery, or to seek out some other channel for their work. While I now write, about 300 weavers are parading the streets with a web which had been given out by a house in town below the " table prices," which they prescribe to the manufacturer. At the same time, the weaving is paid at a rate which cannot procure for the workman the ordinary comforts, or even the necessaries of life. The lace trade, established here about eight years ago by a house at Nottingham, which sent down a number of English women, who took up schools and taught the tambourers here the art, is now in a thriving state, and is contributing greatly to the happiness and comfort of the community. The building of the addition to Ha- milton Palace, the erection of the new buildings already alluded to, the formation of Duke Street, which has just been completed, and many other improvements which are going forward, have con- tributed in no small degree to the support of a large portion of the community. Upon the whole, since the publication of the former report, this town and parish have increased in inhabitants, in wealth, in domestic comfort, in morals, in manners, "and religion, as may be seen from the foregoing account. July 1835. PARISH OF GLASFORD. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. GAVIN LANG, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish of Glasford is about eight miles in length. Its figure, as laid down in the map, resembles a sand-glass, three miles and three-quarters at its broadest extreme, two miles in the opposite end, and about one-half mile in the GLASFORD. 295 middle. It contains in all eleven square miles, or 5598 Scots acres. It is bounded on the north-west by East Kilbride and Blantyre ; north, by Hamilton ; south, by Avondale ; and east, by Stonehouse. Topographical Appearances, — The parish is separated into two grand divisions, — the moors and the dales ; the latter of which com- prehend a beautiful strath of land, that runs along the lower part of the parish, and is bounded on the one side by the Avon. The aspect of the parish presents In some places a gradual rise, but nothing that can be termed mountainous. The district of the moors is in many parts bleak and barren. Owing to its high po- sition the air is keen, but the climate is considered healthy. The soil may be reckoned of three kinds, moss, clay, and light loam. IL — Civil History. Chief Land'Oumers. — The chief land-owners are the Right Ho- nourable Lady Montgomerie, (Patroness;) George Alston, Esq. of Muirbum ; John Marshall, Esq. of Chapelton ; John Jackson, Esq. of Hallhill ; and William Semple, Esq. of Heads, &c. Antiquities, — Three high stones stand upright on a small emi- nence upon the lands of Avonholm, respecting the origin of which there are various opinions. Some suppose they mark the resting- place of martyrs, and others that they are the tombs of noblemen ; but more probably they are remnants of Druidical superstition. Till within a few years the ruins of an ancient castle were to be seen very near the mansion-house of Hallhill. The late proprietor, John Millar, Esq. caused it to be taken down, when there were found some specimens of beautiful china, unfortunately broken, and a few other relics. It is said to have been a very strong fort, con- toning one spacious arch, under which an hundred men could be drawn up. The building was evidently more intended for defence than for a place of residence.— There is a small enclosure at a place called Shawtonhill, in the western part of the parish, which is appropriated as a burying-ground by a few members of the So- ciety of Friends in Glasgow. It has not been used for a great length of time. The land is burdened with the sum of 12s. 2^d. annually, which is paid by two possessors of the adjoining grounds. They are obliged to preserve the fence, which surrounds a space of nine falls. The ruins of the former church and belfry, built in 1633, are still standing in the grave yard, where also the tomb of a martyr is to be seen inscribed, '^ To the memory of the very worthy Pillar, of the Church, Mr William Gordon of Earlston in 296 LANARKSHIRE. Galloway, shot by a party of dragoons on his way to Bothwell Bridge, 22d June 1679, aged 65 ; inscribed by his great-grand- son, Sir John Gordon, Bart 11th June 1772." Eminent Characters. — Mrs Isabella Graham was born in this parish. Her father, Mr J. Marshall, was a small proprietor at a place called Heads, from which he removed to the Abbey parish of Paisley. The piety and excellence of Mrs Graham require no comment here. A memoir of her was first published at New York, and reprinted in London 1816. In 1766, she left her na- tive country for America with her husband, and spent the greater part of her remaining days in that foreign land. She died on the 27th July 1814. Mansion Houses, — The principal of these are, Muirbum, Cru- therland, Avonholm, Westquarter House, Hallhill, Craigthomhill, and Heads, &c Mills. — There are two upon the Avon, one for oats, &c. and another for flour, erected in 1833. Parochial Registers. — The earliest is dated 1692, when the Rev. Francis Borland was ininister of the parish. They are rather confused from the first, and have not been regularly attended to for the last thirty-seven years.* * The following account of the sufferings of the people in the parish of Glasford for religion and non-conformity to Prelacy, about the year 1 660, appears to have been appointed by the kirk- session of 1694, to be inserted in their records. As exemplifying the persecutions of the time, it is thought not unworthy of being presented here at length. " ImprimiSf Mr William Hamilton, minister in Glasford, who had been ordained minister of this parish about January 1 G44, and continued in the faithful and pa- tient exercise of his ministry here, till aflcr the restoration of King Charles 11., wai in the year 1666 most ii^uriously silenced and thrust out of his charge by the then Bishop of Glasgow ; and when afterwards he was indulged to preach the Gospel at Strathaven in the year 1669, he was there confined within the bounds of that parish. " Item, The parish of Glasford was injuriously fined in the sum of eleven hundred merks Scots, which they were forced to pay, upon the account that the curate's house, Mr Finlay, who was then incumbent of the said parish, was by robbers broken up» about the year 1660, although no person of the said parish was anyways guilty of the fact, being done by strangers, who were afterwards apprehended and executed for the robbery ; at their death confessed the same, declaring that they had not done above two dollars worth of damage to the said Mr Finlay, his house or goods. " Itentf Robert Semple in Craigthorn, William Scmple Whitcraig, William Mar- shall in Four Tennyland, having been at the rising in Pentland Hills, were there either killed, or received their death wounds, in their testifying against the corruption of their times. " Itenif John Hart, in Westquarter, who had been at the engagement at Pentland Hills, afler his return home, was appreliended, carried to Glasgow, and there exe- cuted on the foresaid account. " lUfn, James Scouler and Gavin Semple, having gone toward Hamilton to hear sermon, on the same day on which Bothwell Bridge skirmish fell out, were on their way thither both cruelly killed. <' Jtem, John Semple in Craigthorn, sometime after Bothwell Bridge, in the year 1684, was apprehended and cruelly used by soldiers, then laid up in Hamilton Tol- booth ; afterwards carried to foresaid tolbooth, where he was barbarously handled, his fingers driven into the thummeking, and his legs driven into the bolts, and that GLASFORD. 297 III. — Population In 1755 the population was - 5«!i*9 1792, - - - . 788 1811, - - . . 900 1821, .... 1300 1831, . - - . 1730 The increase is chiefly to be found in the manufacturing part of the community, and may be attributed to the encouragement given to feuing, by the proprietors of land around the village. bothat ooe and the same time, for the space of five hours together, to increase his tor- moits, — afterwards they condemned him to die, passing sentence of death upon him , in the forenoon, and executing him in the afternoon of the same, llie same John Semple of good report, well versed in the Holy Scriptures, by the very quoting of vh^ he even dashed his persecutors. He bore sufferings with much patience. " Itan, K sister of the foresaid John Semple, coming to sec him while he was a pri- soner m Edinburgh, and to put on his dead clothes, the persecutors made her a pri- nper, also first in Edinburgh, then in Donnoter Castle. Likewise the mother of the Siid young woman named Janet Scott, going to see her daughter at Donnoter, she vtt also made a prisoner there ; afterwards they were brought to Leith to be sent over sea to America, but it was so ordered that both were reserved, and sent to Edin- ^Kirgb Tolbooth, where they lay in prison a long time. The whole time of the daugh- ter's imprisonment was about two years and three quarters of a year, and the mother's loprisooinent was near two years. " Item^ Janet Scott suffered much by the troopers coming at several times upon her, ^ quartering, and destroying her corn, grass, and meal, and driving away her "Ones and cattle, which she never after received, the said troopers carrying themselves '^y and barbarously to them in the house. "Item, In 1685, Michael Marshall and John Kay were both taken prisoners for llj'eir non-conformity, and banished and sent over sea to New Jersay in America, ^beaaid Michael Marshall staid several years in America. After the lute happy re- ^Qtion, designing to come home, he was taken ])risoner at sea, and was carried to ^^uce, where he was kept otte year and a-half in prison, and endured great hardships Wore he was delivered. "//rm, About the said year 1685, Alexander Hamilton and John Struthersin Shaw- ^ill, John Semple in Shawtcn, John Fleeming in Chapeltoii, John Walker there, ^ei Scott there, John Fatcrson there, John Semple in Nethcrshields, William °^ple there, Gavin Paterson there, John Marshall, elder and younger, Chapelton, *Bd James Lowrie there, were sorely troubled and harassed by the then Lord Glas- wd, who caused a troop of soldiers to search for and ajiprehend them, upon pretence ^conversing with, resetting and giving entertainment to persoi.s who had been in ''Qis against the established Government, and having been actually in arms them - ^^es; upon which allegencies, the said persons were imprisoned fourteen days in '^burgh, and put to much expense in employing agents to defend them, and al- ^^^oo^h the said Lord Glasford summoned many witnesses to compear against them, J^ could he not get anything proven against them. " /ton. Hie parish of Glasford was much o))pressed in the year before the rising at ^°fbwell Bridge, by the free quartering of a company of the Highland host, and by P^tng besides to each of them sixpence by day, besides hardships and robberies com- ^"^^^ by them upon the people of the said parish, while they quartered them. . "/fero, John Alston in Glasford Mill lay half a year in Glasgow Tolbooth for refus- «J the test. . Item, John Fleeming, Elder, in Chapelton, was imprisoned thirty-four weeks, partly *° Glasgow, partly in Edinburgh, and partly in Burnthallin, for his refusing to take ^''^tat, and had the sentence of banishment passed upon him to America, although pfOvicJentially it was not executed. " item, William Semple in Nethershields was imprisoned in Stirling about three "'^'Jtlw, because of his refusing the test. Jtemi Thomas Fleeming in Chapelton was, upon the account of his non-conformity, ^iid going to the field preaching, much troubled by the Donnoter Ilall-yards, who ^Qsed take an inventory of his goods in order to seize them, whicli cost him about '^pounds Scots before he could get his goods set free, and himsi'lf delivered from the ^^d oppression. As also the said Thomas Fleeming was apprehended by Laird S^ m 298 LANARKSHIRE. Number of bachelors upwards of 50 years of age, - 7 maids upwards of 45 years, - - 9 widowers, ----- 25 widows, ------ 36 Number of births during the last 7 years, at an average each year, - 45 deaths, -..----- 24 marriages, .-----.. 15 Number of houses inhabited, ..---. 269 uninhabited, .-•... 1 building, -------8 The number of families employed in manu&ctures, - - • 123 in agriculture, ... 133 The number of proprietors of land is 50. Of these 17 are non- resident, and 36 stand above L.50 in valuation. A considerable number of females are engaged at the loom, at which they spend usually fourteen hours each working day. For some years past the remuneration has not at all been adequate to their support, but is now much improved. Such a mode of life is not beneficial to the health or morality of females in particular. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — As mentioned at the commencement of this ac- count, the number of Scots acres in the parish is computed to be 5598. Of these 440 are reckoned not arable, being chiefly a deep moss. . It is probable, however, that, in the course of a few years, the greater part of this waste will become cultivated ground, if farming operations continue to improve as they have done of late years. There is but little wood, and that little is planted. Beech, ash, and fir trees prevail. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1, 10s. per acre ; that for grazing a good cow, L. 3 ; sheep, 6s. per head. The breed of cattle is principally Ayrshire. A good deal of attention has been paid to rearing them. Oats are mostly cultivated here. upon the foresaid account, and forced to pay five pounds Scots before be could get out of his hands again. ** Jiem^ Alexander Hamilton in Shawtonhill was taken prisoner by Gavin Muir, Laird of Sachopp and his men, on pretence of having been at a conventicle, and car- ried to Glasgow tol booth, where he lay a month Imprisoned. *' Jtetn, John Alston, Elder, in Glasford, was fined in three dollars, because he did not baptize his child by the curate Mr Davison, which he actually paid. " Item, John Marshall in Heads was imprisoned fourteen days in HamUton tol* booth, because of his wife not hearing the curate Mr Davison. ** Item J Gavin Paterson in Nethershields was fined in three dollars, which he accord- ingly paid, for his wife not hearing the curate. " Item, Ann Semple* spouse to Tliomas Watt in Croutherland, was imprisoned fourteen days in Hamilton, for not hearing the curate. <* Item, Thomas Watt, foresaid, was fined in three dollars, and John Young in Flatt, was fined in two dollars, which they both actually paid, upon the account of their hearing a sermon at the Torrance House, preached by Mr Robert Muir. *< Itenh Adam Fleemingin Shawton was imprisoned in Hamilton tolbooth, for lodg- ing Mr Matthew M'Koll two nights in his house, and was fined in fifty pounds Scots besides. " This account of sufferings within this parish, the session appointed to be insert in their register, adfuluram vos memoriam," GLASFOBD. 299 More wheat, however, was sown during the last than in any pre^ vious year. Potatoes are a prevalent crop. Nineteen years is the general term of leases. Some of these are conditional, which im- plies a liberty of resigning, provided that the parties are not satis- fied at the termination of such years as may be specified. The turn-houses may be considered rather comfortable ; a number of them have been recently built. There are three freestone quar- ries near the village of Westquarter, and one at a place called Flatt, from which most of the buildings are supplied. A large lime-work is in operation in that division of the parish, termed the Moors. Coal has also been found in different parts, but not in abundance. At present there is one colliery going on in the estate of Cruther- land, for the use of the property chiefly. Produce. — The annual produce may be as follows : Potatoes, 40 acres Scots. Turnips, . 10 Hay, . 261 Oats, 320 V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market-town in Glasford. Strathaven is the near- ^t) distant about two and a-half miles. The parish contains three ^^lUages, Westquarter, Chapelton, and Heads. The population of Westquarter is 501 ; of Chapelton, 558 ; of Heads, 6a Means of CommuniccUion. — Letters are conveyed to these vil- %es from the post-town Strathaven, by a runner who goes daily. The turnpike-road leading from Strathaven to Glasgow, by east Kilbride, stretches four miles through the parish; that from Strath- aven to Hamilton, about two and a-half miles. Two stage-coaches nin in opposite directions, both from Strathaven, one by east Kil- bride, and the other by Stonehouse, to which there is easy access. The bridge over the Avon at Glasford mill is very narrow, and not ^ good repair. It is proposed to have it widened. That over the Calder at Crutherland is better. Thorn and beech hedges pre- v^l, Which are now obtaining much more attention than in former years. This is particularly visible in the moorland parts, where en- closures of any kind are few. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, built in 1820, is situ- ^^ in the village of Westquarter, which is almost at one extre- ^Jty of the parish, being distant from the other end six miles. It ^ in good repair, and calculated to contain 560 sitters. The ''■^se was built in 1804. An addition and offices were erected in 1B33, which render it very commodious. The glebe and garden, &c include between eight and nine acres of excellent soil. The 300 LANARKSHIRE. stipend allotted in 1822 is sixteen chalders, half meal and half barley. There is no chapel or meeting-house here; but the num- ber of families attending Dissenting chapels in the neighbouring parishes is 130. Divine service is occasionally performed at Chapelton, three miles from the stated place of worship. The number of communicants amounts to 400. A female society for religious purposes was instituted in January 1835, likewise a paro- chial library for each division. • Education, — At Westquarter is one parochial school, in which are taught besides the common branches, Greek and Latin. The salary is 300 merks, or L. 16, 13s. 4d. with legal accommodation. The schoolmaster's fees amount to L.32 per annum, and his emoluments from other sources to L. 6 per annum. There are two schools at Chapel ton, one of which has a grant of 100 merks, or L. 5, lis. Id. and a school-house assigned to the teacher. Far- ther to the west at Mill-well is another school, to which is at- tached 50 merks or L. 2,'! 5s. 6^d. with a school-house and garden, from the Right Honourable Lady Montgomerie, and L. 3 Sterling from the parish. These schools are so situated as to be accessible to all the different parts of the parish. In 1832 two Sabbath schools were opened, one at Westquarter, the other at Chapel - ton, at which 300 children usually attend ; and besides these there is an adult female Sabbath evening class containing 30 ; which in- stitutions are supported by collections. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers regularly receiving aid in 1832 was about 30, and the average sum calcu- lated to each, L. 5, 10s. yearly. Besides these, others receive as- sistance in various sums. The assessment of the parish for that year was L. 170, 9s. 7d., and the collections at the church door during 1833 were L. 15, 6s. l^d. Charitable Institutions. — At Westquarter, one male Friendly So- ciety, members, 112; one Female do. 23; one Temperance do. 107. At Chapelton, three Friendly Societies, in all 214; one Temperance do. members, 41. These friendly societies are of great benefit not only to the in- dividuals connected with them, but to the heritors of the parish. They are calculated both to promote industry and excite a desire of independence. Inns, 8fc. — There are six houses in Westquarter and Chapelton that retail spirits. The demoralizing effects of these places of re- sort are too evident. Juli/ 1835. PARISH OF AVONDALE OR STRATHAVEN. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR^ THE REV. WILLIAM PROUDFOOT, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parish is not unfrequently named Strathaven or Straven; but Avondale is the proper name. Dale seems to be much more descriptive of the face of the country than Strath. There is a considerable town in the parish named Strathaven ; so that now Strathaven is the name uniformly applied to the town, and Arondale to the parish. I shall speak of the town and parish se- parately. BoundarieSy Extent, ^c. — Avondale is bounded on the north by the parishes of Glasford and Kilbride ; on the west by Loudon andGalston and Som ; on the south by Muirkirk and Lesmahagow ; and on the east by Lesmahagow, Stonehouse, and part of Glasford. h contains nearly 64 square miles, (32,000 acres,) and yields a rental of nearly L. 20,000 a-year. The valued rent is L. 7650 Scots. Topographical Appearances. — Though lying in rather a high dis- trict of the country, yet the lands are generally flat, rising gently from the banks of the river Avon, especially towards the west and south. There are several ridges and small hills in the parish, such as Kype's rigg, Hawkwood hill, Dungivel, and the hills on the Wndaries of Ayrshire. There are also the interesting eminences called the Floors' hills, and the Kirkhill, but these are scarcely entitled to be named hills. None of these heights seem to rise ^ore than 800 or 900 feet above the level of the sea. Climate and Soil. — Upon the whole, the climate may be said to ^ rather moist ; but it is at the same time healthy. The inhabit- ^ts are in general a long-lived race. Many of them at present living are above eighty years of age, and one is above ninety. Per- haps in few places is there a finer race of men than in Avondale. They are tall and stout, and well-formed. There are no particu- lar diseases peculiar to the district. Throughout the greater part 302 LANARKSHIRE. of the parish the soil is light and dry, and susceptible of great ioi- provement, especially in the higher districts. Geology. — The rocks of this parish belong to the coal forma- tion of the secondary class. The common whinstone or trap which is found in great abundance in every part of the parish, exhibits at its junctions with the coal formation many interesting pheno- mena. Clay ironstone abounds. Limestone is very plenty in various districts ; and is wrought at three different places. There is also a sufficient supply of coal for burning the lime in the immediate vicinity of the kilns. But though perfectly fitted for burning the lime, this coal is not accounted sufficiently good for family use. Coal used for family purposes is brought from the works of Quarter, in the parish of Hamilton, and Marlage, in the parish of Dalserf. The distance to each is about five miles ; and 14 cwt can be laid down at Strathaven for 5s. Hydrography. — The Avon is the principal stream in the parish, which it divides nearly into two equal parts. It rises on the con- fines of Ayrshire, and runs nearly east by north. It is a beautiful stream, with gently sloping banks ; but which unfortunately are al- most entirely destitute of wood. Indeed the want of wood is felt throughout the whole parish, especially in the upper district of it. There are several smaller streams which join the Avon in its pro- gress through the parish. There are Cadder and Pomilion on the north ; and Givel, or Geil, Lochar, Lowhere, or Lockart, and Kype, on the south. On this last stream at Spectacle-eye-miln, about a mile to the south of Strathaven, there is a considerable waterfall. The waters of the Kype fall over a precipice of about fifty feet. The scenery in the neighbourhood has been much admired. Trouts abound in all these streams. Salmon used to be found at the very source of the Avon, till some erections were raised lower down the river, which for some years has prevented them from ascending. Report says that arrangements are now making to permit the fish again to ascend ; so that we are in the expectation of being once more vi- sited by this delightful fish. Zoology — Grouse^ Sfc. — Vast quantities of grouse are to be found on the moors in the higher districts of the parish. His Grace the Duke of Hamilton has some thousands of acres in sheep pasture, and kept for grouse shooting. Perhaps few places in the south of Scotland are more favourable for game than the Strathaven moors. Partridges abound in the low lands. Plovers and ducks, &c are to be found everywhere. AVON DALE. 303 Hones and Caws. — The real breed of Clydesdale horses is reared here in considerable numbers. Tradition states, that, at a remote period, one of the Dukes of Hamilton sent a superior breed of horses to Avondale. They were kept in the castle ; and from these and the common mares of the country have sprung the real Lanarkshire or Clydesdale breed of horses. It has been alleged, that of laie this breed has been injured by being too much crossed with lighter horses, intended more for coaches and the saddle. They are, however, still to be found here in great perfection and beauty. The cows kept here are of the Ayrshire kind. They are reared in great numbers. Indeed, it is said that this race of cattle can be obtained here as pure as in most places in Ayrshire. It has been alleged that the Ayrshire farmer, when tempted by a price, will part with the very best of his stock ; while with us, the farmers retam the best, and part with those which are accounted not so va- luable. Strathaven veal has long been held in high estimation. It is rear- ^ here in great quantities, and sent both to Edinburgh and Glas- gow; but chiefly to the Glasgow market In preparing the animals for iDarket, they are kept in a dark place, and fed with great care. The ordinary price of fed veal is from L. 3 to L. 5. But a much higher sum has been o'btained for those particularly large and well fed. Botany. — Hippuris vulgaris (rare) is found in Moss Malloch; Vtriadaria vulgaris^ in Lochgate Loch ; Eriophorum vaginatum^ in the moors ; Sherardia arvensisj in dry corn fields ; Plantago ma- ^moy near Drumclog ; Pamassia palustrisy in wet moors ; Nets-' ^ium terrestrey in the rivulet near the Relief manse ; Ophioglos- *^ vidgatum, in high wet pastures ; Lycopodium selaginoidesj moors Ui several places; Sphagnum cuspictatum^ East Lochgate; Dicranum fi^niomvi, moss east of Hawkwood-hill ; Dryum attenuatum^ near the head of Unthankburn ; Merulius crassipes^ on the roots of de- cayed trees ; Helvetia mitra, Bonnanhill. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — A Roman road can be traced for a considerable Stance in the parish. It runs along the south side of the Avon, *od passes the farm of Walesley. On the farm of Gennerhill some shoes or sandals of Roman manufacture have been found, and also some small coins. A few years ago some coins were also discovered on the lands of Torfoot, near to Loudoun-hill, and on the very line by which the Romans when crossing the Caledonian forest, niust have marched towards the west coast. 304 LANARKSHIRE. Proprietor8.-ln this parish there must be nearly 200 heritors. Con- sequently, property is very much subdivided and broken down. His Grace the Duke of Hamilton is patron of the parish. He is superior of nearly the whole, and proprietor of more than one-fourth of the lands. In Hamilton of Wishaw's account of the Sheriffdom of Lanark, it is stated, that ^^ this baronie of Avendale did anciently belong to the Bairds, and thereafter came to Sinclair, and from them to the Earle of Douglass, with whom it continued several ages; and after his fatall forfaulture in anno 1455, it was given by King James the 3d to Andrew Stewart, whom he created Lord Avendale, and it continued with him and his heirs until 1538 or thereby, that he exchanged it with Sir James Hamilton for the baronie of Ochiltree, in the Parliament 1543, from which time it continued with the successors of Sir James Hamilton until it was acquired by James first of that name. Marquis of Hamilton, and continued with his successors since." There are twelve commis- sioners of supply in the parish. The principal properties are Nether- field, belonging to Miss Young, Overton, Lambhill, Newton, &c Parochial Registers. — The following records are at present in the possession of the kirk-session of Avondale. Minutes of the kirk- session, Vol. i. from 1660 to 1701 ; Vol. ii. from 1734 to 1757; Vol. iii. from 1779 to 1827 ; Vol. iv. from 1827 to 1834. Regis- ters of births. Vol. i. from J 699 to 1785 ; Vol. ii. from 1785 to 1834 Registers of proclamation, Vol. i. from 1723 to 1755; Vol. ii. from 1775 to 1834: A bound book containing a copy of Shawtonhill's mortification : The Acts of the General Assembly, Vol. i. from 1638 to 1649 ; Vol. ii. from 1690 to 1715 ; Vol. iii! 1715 to 1724. Remarkable Occurrences. — The people in this parish suffered much from the " Bloody Claverhouse," who frequently visited this district during the " persecuting times." He never forgot the defeat which he experienced at Drumclog in this parish, on Sab- bath the 1st June 1679. On that day the country people had met for worship in great numbers, many of them armed, and de- termined, if attacked, to defend themselves. Claverhouse rested his men some time in the town of Strathaven, and then marched west about six miles, when he came in sight of the Covenanters at Drumclog, a farm belonging to the Duke of Hamilton, about two miles to the east of Loudoun-hill. The armed part of the con- gregation marched steadily forward to meet him, and chose their situation with much skill. It was at the foot of a gently rising ground, with a small rivulet in front, the banks of which were so AVONDALE. 305 soft that the horses of the dragoons were unable to pass. In en- deaTouring to cross this little stream, the military were exposed to the deadly aim of the country people, who from all accounts be- bafed with uncommon coolness and steadiness. Claverhouse him- self was in imminent danger. He was the first to carry the news of his own defeat to Glasgow. — Auchengelloch in this parish was also fiunous for its conventicles ; but as it is quite inaccessible to caialry, it does not appear that the people ever experienced any intemiptioD. At this latter place, a small stone monument was lately erected, pointing out the place, where the " remnant of the coTeoant," far out in the wild and the waste, met together to hear the glad tidings of salvation proclaimed to them. I grieve to be under the necessity of noticing a " rising" here of a very different description in 1819, — a rising in open re- bellioD against lawful authority, and intended against both the altar and throne. I refer to the attempt of a few deluded persons calling themselves " Radicals" who, with something like weapons in their hands, marched from this place towards Glasgow, under the command of a James Wilson, whose life was soon after forfeited to the outraged laws of his country. It does not appear that Wilson CYer contemplated carrying matters so far as to become an open re- bel against the laws of his country ; but he had infused a spirit into his companions which he was unable to control. This rising was in the utmost degree contemptible, for it comprised no more than thirteen individuals, deluded by a false report that a general rebel- lion had taken place in Glasgow. It has been remarked that none of those who joined in the ludicrous crusade afterwards experienced *Dy thing like prosperity. III. — Population. In 1801 the population was . 3623 1811, . . . . 4353 1821, .... 5030 1831, .... 5761 Popalation of the town in 1831, ..... 3597 Member of fiunilies in the parish, ..... 1246 chiefly employed in agriculture, . . . 3] | in trade, manufactures, or handicraft. 672 The number of weavers in both town and parish may be said to ^ount to nearly 800. Many of the weavers are proprietors of their own houses, and upon the whole are diligent and industrious. There are several extensive dealers in cheese and cattle. In these ^0 departments, there is perhaps more business done in Strathaven 4an in all Lanarkshire, with the exception of the city of Glas- 306 LANARKSHIRE. gow. A branch of the Glasgow Union Bank has been establish- ed here for some time. The inhabitants are a well-informed, reading people. Marriages. — In 1 828 the number of proclamations in order to marriage was 50. In 1829 it was 58; in 1830, 61 ; in 1831, 54; in 1 832, 6 1 ; in 1833, 65 ; and in 1 834, 56. Among the lower classes, large gatherings at weddings are very common. There is unifonn- ly a race for the broose. When the distance from the house of the bridegroom is considerable, the company ride on horseback ; the bridegroom and bride, and as many as can crowd together tra- vel generally in a chaise or coach. The broose^ or contest who shall first reach the house of the bridegroom, is then very keenly maintained by the young men belonging to the different districts of the parish ; and if the parties belong to different parishes, much anxiety is displayed by each party to get before the other, and obtain honour to their parish. Births, — The number of births cannot be accurately stated, as they are not regularly recorded in the parish* register. Burials. — The number of burials here in 1828 was 147. In 1829, 114; in 1830, 114; in 1831, 134; in 1832, 199. (This season we were visited with Asiatic Cholera, of which 50 of our people died.) In 1833, 156; and in 1834, 115. Customs^ Sfc. — Much time is lost, and no small expense unnecessa- rily incurred, by the way in which funerals are conducted in this parish. Great numbers of both men and women usually attend and sit together and receive their "service" together in the bam or place of meeting. Though warned to attend at twelve o'clock, they sel- dom make their appearance till much later, and do not leave the place of meeting with the body before two o'clock ; and having perhaps to travel several miles, the interment is seldom over till towards four o'clock. In general, three " services" are given, two glasses of wine, and one glass of whisky or rum. A practice prevailed at one time very generally here, but which is now begin- ning to wear out, of collecting vast numbers of the friends and neighbours together, to witness the " chesting," or putting the body into the cofiin. The writer of this has witnessed forty persons pre- sent on such an occasion ; after which they generally drink tea, perhaps in the same apartment with the coffined remains of their departed friend ; and, except when some pious influential person is present, it is to be feared that the conversation is not altogether becoming the occasion. AVONDALE. 307 Id both town and parish the inhabitants are hospitable, kind, and obliging. They are also cleanly, sober, and industrious. IV. — Industry. Africuiture. — It has already been stated that the parish contains 32,000 acres : of these rather more than the half have been cul- ^Tated; and about 2000 are in undivided common. Within the last thirty years the rental of the parish has been doubled. Vast quantities of moss and marsh have been reclaim- ed, and are now yielding most abundant crops. The Strath- aven moss, consisting of about 200 acres, and which, little more than half a century ago, was perfectly worthless, is now drained and improved, and is perhaps more productive, than any land in the parish. Some of it is let as high as L. 4 an acre. Through- out the whole parish, the farmers are actively and extensive- ly engaged in fur draining their lands. They in general open a drain in every furrow, which they fill up to a certain depth with stones; and as there is plenty of whinstone in every district of the parish, this process may be carried on to any extent, and to very great advantage. The rental of the parish might be increased to ^ ^ery great amount. This is a pastoral district, and .the dairy produce is what the farmers chiefly depend upon for the payment of their rents. The l^unlop cheese is made here as good as in any part of Scot- land. In many parts of the parish little more land is cultivated than seems necessary for the support of the cattle. The lands, from ooeend of the parish to the other, are very favourable for pasture. There are, however, excellent crops of oats raised everywhere, — hear or big, barley, and on some farms to the east of Strathaven, excellent wheat Great quantities of potatoes are also planted, which are chiefly disposed of to the farmers in the low country for seed. Though the soil be peculiarly adapted for turnips, yet they are not extensively cultivated ; and in a district where so many cattle are reared, and so much food required, it seems not a little strange that this should be the case. Bent of Land. — In the lower parts of the parish, and in the vici- nity of the town of Strathaven, the lands are well cultivated, and very productive. Some of them sold during the war as high as L. 1 40 an acre for cultivation. Even now, L. 100 and L. 105 an acre can be ob- tained for land in the immediate neighbourhood of the town. There, the annual rent of land is about L. 4 an acre ; at a distance from the town, the rent falls much lower. 308 LANARKSHIRE. The gross produce of the parish I am unable to ascertain with accuracy. V. — Parochial Economy. Roads, S^c. — In every part of the parish the roads are excellent and kept in good repair. It is greatly in favour of Avondale that two turnpike roads, the one leading to Ayr, and the other to Muir- kirk, run nearly parallel to one another from the town of Strath- aven to the western extremity of the parish, the one on the north and the other on the south side of the Avon. The other roads kept by the parish statute labour extend to perhaps sixty miles, and cost the parish, including every thing, about L. 300 a year. There are about 30 bridges over the different rivulets in the parish, but in general they are too narrow. The road commissioners em- ploy a clerk, treasurer, and overseer, (who is in general the same person) at the very moderate salary of L. 15 a year. He super- intends all their road operations, and has improved the bridges and lines of communication very much. Toian of Strathaven. — Strat haven was erected into a burgh of barony in 1450. It had an extensive common, which has now all become private property. There is a weekly market, besides a great many annual fairs. It is ruled by a baron bailie, who is appointed by the Duke of Hamilton. For some years past the town has been deprived of this functionary, or if there be a person appointed to that situation, he is non-resident. The population of the parish of Avondale and town of Strathaven may be stated now to be 6000. The population of the town in 1781 was 1444. In 1791 it had increased to 1610, and in 1831 to 3000; and at present it may be rated at 4000. Strathaven lies prettily at the end of a small ridge of eminen- ces on the banks of the little stream of Pomilion, which runs through it, and divides it nearly into two equal parts, and contributes greatlv to its cleanliness and comfort. It has the appearance of being a very old town. The houses in the old part of it are very much crowd- ed together, and the streets are narrow and irregularly built. It is built in the immediate vicinity of the castle, which is now in ruins. No doubt the cause of the narrowness of the streets, and the crowding of the houses so much together, was, that the inha- bitants wished to be under the protection of the castle. Though now in ruins, the castle is still a beautiful feature in our landscape. It is said to have been built by Andrew Stewart, grandson of Murdoch Duke of Albany, and must have been a place of considerable strength. AVONDALE. 309 It stands on a rocky eminence on the banks of the little stream of Pomilion, whose waters flow round the greater part of it In for- mer times it is highly probable that it was entirely surrounded by this stream, and that the approach to it was by a drawbridge.* Of late years, some excellent houses have been built, and new broad streets fonned in the town. A number of neat small villas have been erect- ed by some of the wealthier citizens in the neighbourhood. A few years ago, a number of the inhabitants formed themselves into a company to' supply the town with gas, which seems to be suc- ceeding well. Many of the private houses, and almost all the shops are lighted with gas ; and it is expected that all the streets will soon be lighted in the same manner. Means of CommunicatiorL — There is a post-office here, and a numer to Hamilton every morning at nine o'clock. There is a very ready communication with Edinburgh, Glasgow, Ayr, and Hamilton every day. The improvement in this respect must ap- P^ Tery striking to the old inhabitants. About sixteen years ago, ftere was not even a caravan to Glasgow, and there was no inter- ^urse with either Edinburgh or Glasgow, but by a carrier's cart, ^f 00 horseback, or by sending to Hamilton for a post-chaise. Since that time the road between Edinburgh and Ayr by the Ga- non Bridge has been opened, so that now we have not only coaches *® all these places every day (except Sunday) but also post-horses ^ chaises, gigs, and cars in abundance. Markets, Sfc. — There are excellent markets here of all kinds. Butcher-meat can be got at all times only little (if at all) inferior to ^ of Glasgow. In the town there are three butchers, who deal extensively, and seven bakers, all of whom seem well employed. There is also a brewery. We have a regular market every Thurs- day, which is well attended, and much business done. The coun- try people have a very bad practice of not coming to market till four or five, or perhaps six o'clock in the evening. They seem to think that by this they gain a day's work, but they must in conse- quence be often late in returning to their families. It is strange that though there are here weekly markets, and a great number ot fairs, there are no markets or times fixed for hiring servants, — * It is nid that the late Duchess Anne of Hamilton, commonly known by the oaane of the good Duchess, took refuge here during the usurpation of Cromwell, and never forgot the kindness which she experienced from her tenants and vassals in these S of her diatress. She died in 1716. After this the Castle of Avondalefcll very ra. J into decay. No attention seems to have been i)aid to it ; and it is now fast mouldering away. LANARK. X 310 LANARKSHIRE. which occasions not a little inconvenience both to masters and ser- vants, as they have to travel either to Douglas or Glasgow, and thus incur both much expense and fatigue. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church was erected in 1772, and stands on the west side of the town of Strathaven. It for- merly stood in the church-yard, a little to the east of the castle, one of the most beautiful situations in the place. It says little for the taste of the heritors of formers days, that they permitted it to be moved to its present site. Even when first built, it was far too small for the inhabitants ; and that no attention was paid to the application of the people of Strathaven to have it enlarged, which they offered to do in part at their own expense, evinced a very improper spirit on the part of the heritors. After it was built, it remained unseated for considerably more than twenty years ; and after it was seated, more than one law-suit before the Su- preme Court took place respecting the division of the seats. It is seated to contain about 800 sitters, so that there is here a grievous deficiency of church accommodation. The 4000 in- habitants of the town have a legal title to only 24 sittings in the parish church. About two-thirds of the country population, and a great number in the town, profess to belong to the Esta- blished Church ; but of course there must be among these many who do not attend public worship; and on inquiring the cause of absence, they meet us daily with the unanswerable reply, ^^ we have no seat." In consequence of the deficiency of accommodation in the present church, and the unkind manner in which they had been used by the then heritors, the inhabitants erected the present Re- lief meeting-house, to contain about 900. There is also a place of worship here connected with the United Secession body seated for fully 600. The usual attendance at the first of these places is said to be 1000, and at the latter 350. The parish church is well attended. Many of the country people come from the distance of 6, 7, 8, and some of them nearly 9 miles. Those who are most distant are very seldom absent, and scarcely have I ever heard a complaint seriously made on account of their distance from church. Parochial Visitations. — Ever since the Reformation, the mini- sters of Avondale have been in the habit of visiting and catechis- ing the people every year. That good practice is still kept up. The diets of examination in the country are remarkably well at- tended ; those in the town not so well ; and here also the visits must be less frequent. AVONDALE. 311 The present manse was built about twenty years ago. It is an excellent house, and is in a good state of repair. It was the pri- ?ate property of the former minister. After his death, the house and about six acres of land were bought by the heritors, and an eicambion took place of the old manse, and that part of the glebe which lay on the side of the great road to Ayr near the church, and the present manse and lands adjoining. This transaction was agreeable and beneficial to all parties. It improved the living, and turned out well for the heritors. The glebe consists of about 7 J acres. There does not appear to be any grass glebe. The pre- sent glebe was augmented to its present size by the repeated ex- cambiohs which have taken place. The stipend is fixed at 19 chal- wing to the mills. The people at these works are in general as healthy as their neighbours in other parts of the parish, many of them attaining a peat age. This month, one of the mechanics died aged ninety- four. There is an overseer at present in the service of the com- ply, seventy-seven years of age, who has been employed for- ^y-eight years within the walls of the mill. There are several others between eighty and ninety who still enjoy good health, ^i not a few between seventy and eighty, some of whom are fol- lowing their usual avocations. Many workers are now employed ^ho have been upwards of forty years in the service of the com- * The hours are regulated in terms of the late Factory Act. 324 LANARKSHIRE. pany. As a class, it must be confessed that they are much more healthy than the mill-workers in large towns. In general, the working people marry young, and in all cAses where any degree of care is exercised they live very comfortably. Many o( them have brought up large and respectable families. The village is kept clean and neat ; to insure which, the company provide both watchmen and scavengers. With regard to the habits of the people they may be said to be cleanly. To encourage this desirable ob- ject, the company built a public washing-house several years ago, to which the householders have access in rotation ; and a laige bleaching green on the banks of the river, with a good exposure, capable of accommodating ten times the amount of the population, has also been provided. The village is supplied by means of force pumps at the works, with both soft and hard water. The ordinary food of the workers is much better than that of the agricultural la- bourers in the neighbourhood. A considerable quantity of butcher's meat is consumed every week in the village. There are also seve- ral shops or stores from which the people derive the advantage of competition and low prices. There has been a considerable library established among the workers for several years past, and measures have now been taken for extending it considerably. A funeral society was established fourteen years ago. Among other provisions on the death of a mem- ber or his wife, the heirs receive L. 4, and for a member's child L. 2, to defray funeral expenses. There is also a poors' fund for the sick and destitute, to which the company contribute L. 21 annually. The management is vested in the workers, who elect new mana- gers every six months. The average number obtaining relief is 16. The average sum expended annually is L. 75. An association for religious purposes was instituted in 1822. The average annual amount that has been voted to sundry societies at the yearly gene- ral meetings has been, for the last ten years, upwards of L.20. The Blantyre Works Temperance Society was formed in 1830, since which period it has had at an average from 60 to 70 members. llie population of the village at present is, males, . 743 females, . 1078 Total, . 1821 Belonging to the Established Church, . 1041 Dissenters, . . 592 Episcopalians, . . 39 Roman Catholics, . 149 Any worker known to be guilty of irregularities of moral conduct is instantly discharged, and poaching game or salmon meets with BLANTYRE. 325 the same punishment. The general character of tlie population is moral, and in many instances strictly religious. Fighting or brawls in the village are unknown. It cannot be said they are much given to the discussion of politics, — though several newspa- pers come to the village. Living in one of the " fairy neuks" of creation, religious and moral, well fed and clothed, and not over- wrought, they seem peculiarly happy, as they ought to be. V. — Parochial Economy. The village of Blantyre, where the church and manse stand, is beautifully situated in a rich level country overtopped with tall trees, many of them of great age and beauty. It is 3 miles from Hamil- ten, 4 from Kilbride, 7 from Eaglesham, and 8 miles and 2 fur- longs from Glasgow. There are in the parish about 3 miles of turnpike road, and "SO miles of parish roads, which are always bpt in excellent repair. Ecclesiastical State, — The church was built in 1793, and is in pretty good repair. It affords accommodation for 360 sitters ; but if galleries were erected it could accommodate 200 more. The chapel at^the mills affords accommodation for 400 sitters. The manse was built in 1773, and underwent a thorough repair in 1823. It is now one of the best manses in Scotland. The glebe consists of about twelve acres, four at the manse, and eight acres at Blan- tyre moor. The former is worth L. 2, 10s., and the latter worth Llper acre. The stipend is L. 116, 18s. 7|Jd. in money, 86 bolls, 1 firlot^ 1 peck, l^^,, lippie of meal, and 10 bolls, 3 firlots, Hlippie of barley, including communion elements. The average number of communicants is 420, of whom 144 are heads of fa- fliilies. About L. 10 are usually drawn at the church door at the time of the sacrament, which is distributed in the usual way ^ong the aged and infirm. There is no dissenting chapel in the parish. Exclusive of the population at the Blantyre Works, there are 6 families, including 30 individuals belonging to the Relief, and 2 families, including 7 individuals, belonging to the Roman Catholics. Divine service at the parish church is well at- tended. Lord Blantyre is patron. The average weekly collec- tion at the church door is 9s. Education. — Besides the parish school in the village, in which ^'1 the usual branches of education are taught, there are two En- S"sh schools, one at Auchinraith, and another at Hunthill, and ^ a school for females. The number of scholars attending these ^ools is 123, twenty-five of whom attend the female school. The Unark. y 32G LANARKSHIRE. salary of the schoolmaster is the minimum, being about Lb 26. Amount of parochial schoolmaster's fees per annum is L. 20. All children at the proper age are taught to read, except a few be- longing to the Roman Catholic persuasion at the mills.* Poor and Parochial Funds, — There is no assessment in this pa- rish for the poor. There is at present a fund in the hands of the heritors, minister, and kirk-session, amounting to L. 213, 13s. which is increasing. The foundation of this sum is said to have been donations left to the poor of the parish by benevolent per- sons, who occasionally resorted to this part of the country to enjoy the benefits of the well at Park, There are at present only four persons on the poors' roll. The expenditure for the poor (luring the year from February 1834 to February 1835 was L. 29, 18s. 8d. and the average of five years preceding February 1835 was L. 37, 15s. 4d. The allowance per week is from Is. to 2s. 6d. The people at Blantyre works support their own poor, and never allow them to be chargeable to the parish. Alehouses^ Sfc, — There are 13 alehouses in the parish, one ol which is at Blantyre works. Coal is almost the only fuel burned, and it is generally brought from Hamilton, and laid down at the village of Blantyre, which stands nearly in the centre of the parish, at about 6s. 6d. per ton. The present contract for coals laid down at Blantyre Works is 4s. lid. per ton. Miscellaneous Observations, The changes which have occurred in this parish since the pub- lication of last account are considerable. The population has increased from 1040 to 3000, and the comfort and intelligence ol the people keep pace with their numbers. This must be owing in a great measure to the stimulus given to industry by the great manufacturing establishment of Messrs Monteith and Company. It has been supposed that agriculture is scarcely so far advanced here as in some neighbouring parishes. This may perhaps be at- tributed to the easy tenure by which most of the proprietors no^ hold their lands ; being a very small or nfere nominal feu from Lord Blantyre. On the whole, however, the people of Blantyre have reason to congratulate themselves on the rapid strides the} have already made, and are still making. Juhj 1835. • These children arc now, however, in terms of the late Factory Act, ol»ligod to nt tend the school. PARISH OF CRAWFORD. PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. THOMAS ANDERSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. ^ame. — Crawford is supposed by antiquarians to signify the road or passaffe of blood. This derivation seems natural, from the circumstance of the old Roman road passing through the vil- lage and crossing the river Clyde below it, towards the old Castle of Crawford, which stands on the right bank of the river, — where it K probable many bloody conflicts took place between the invaders ^d the native inhabitants. Part of the parish was formerly known ^1 the name of Douglas Moor, and part of it by that of Friar Moor, but the district or parish is now designated Crawford Muir. It lies 11 the south*east corner of Lanarkshire. There are two farms, in the corner of Lanarkshire, attached to the parish of Moffat, in the county of Dumfries, quod sacrcu Extent, Sfc. — Tlie length of the parish is about 18 miles, and the breadth 14 or 15 miles, but from its irregular figure, it does not ^ntain more than 118 square miles, or about 75,500 acres. It ^ bounded by eleven different parishes : chiefly by Crawfordjohn on the west ; by Sanquhar, Durrisdeer, and Morton, on the south- ''est; by Closeburn, Kirkpatrick-juxta on the south ; by Moffat and Tweedsmuir on the east ; and by Lamington on the north. Topographical appearances. — The range of the mountains is chiefly south-west and north-east ; but the parish may rather be re- sted as a group of mountains or hills, the glens or valleys run- ^ng in every direction. The Louther mountains lie chiefly in *his parish, and they are generally stated to be about 2450 feet ^ve the level of the sea. The acclivity of the hills being in ge- neral gentle, they are for the most part covered with heath or grass, ^Wch affords excellent pasture for sheep. The valleys or flat pounds which separate the hills are partly dry, and partly wet and spungy. Grounds of the last description when improved by drain- ing, as many of them are, produce great quantities of coarse hay, 328 LANARKSHIRE. which proves a seasonable supply, in the time of deep snow, for the sheep. Meteorology. — The only meteorological observations that I have seen, as connected with the parish, are those made by Bailie Mar- tin, at Leadhills, the highest inhabited village in the south of Scot- land, — an abstract of which is here subjoined.* Abstract of Meteorological Observations, from the year 1818 to 1832 inclusive, extracted from the Register kept by Bailie Mar- tin, at Leadhills, Lanarkshire, in latitude 55^ 28^ north ; and longitude 3^ 50', west, at an altitude of 1240 above the sea; distant from Leith 48 miles, and 30 from Dumfries. Mean an- Mean temperature of the seasons. Mean an. Fair days. Yrtorc nual tem- height of a vm 3« perature. Winter. Spring. Summer. Autumn. barometer. 1818, 44 1-2 38 34 1-2 64 1-3 51 28 7-10 201 1819, 42 1-2 29 2-3 37 51 1-6 60 1-8 28 2&-30 196f 1820, 47 2-3 28 6-8 205$ 1821, 43 a-8 37 1-2 1 37 49 1-3 50 1-2 28 6-8 ]80§ 1822, 44 34 4-10, 39 53 4-10 48*7-10 28 6-9 18211 1823, 42 1-8 38 1-9 34 1-3 48 5-6 47 1^ 28 4-11 I70t 1824, 43 7-9 3(5 2-3 ' 38 1-2 52 4-1 1 49 28 7-9 193^ 1825, 43 3-4 32 2-9 37 7-9 52 2-3 52 1-4 28 1-9 200»« 1826, 45 1-G 35 1-6 38 2-3 66 50 2-3 28 2-3 193tt 18-27, 44 1-2 38 2-3 35 7-9 52 1-6 61 2-3 28 1-2 205tt 1828, 45 1-2 38 2-3 39 1-7 52 3-8 51 2-3 28 4.11 208 1829, 42 .53 1-3 35 3-4 51 a-8 47 1-:^ 28 1-2 237 1830, 43 34 38 1-3 50 2-3 48 7-9 28 1-2 163§§ 1821, 44 1-2 36 39 1-6 53 2-:^ 52 1-3 28 1-2 2I5I1II 1832, 43 1-2 36 4-5 38 1-5 | 51 1-3 51 1-12 28 3-5 23615 The winds are generally from west and south-west In spring • Vide early volumes of Blackwood's Magazine and Edinburgh Philosophical Journal for other details illustrative of the climate of the Leadhills. Remarks. f One day in July, thermometer at 78**. December I3th at 13**. Barometer, September *22d and October 3d, 4th, 5th, at 29'* 2'. \ Thermometer, January 1 7th, at 7". November 28th, a shock of an earthquake at 8 A. M. ; a more severe one at half-past 11 r. m. 29th, a slight shock half-past 10 p. M. It was felt by the miners in the mines. The barometer 29** 1'. § May 25, thermometer 28<». On the 26th at 29^ In January 23d, barometer «t 29" 5', and four following days at 29" 4' jl June 9th, thermometer in the sun against a wall stood at 106° at 5 p. m. ^ November 12th to 18th, barometer at 29°. •• July 26th, thermometer 80° at 2 p. u. Barometer, January 4th to 13th, at 29* or above ; on the 10th at 29* 6'. t+ June 26th, thermometer 86° at half-past 2. In the sun, 109° at 6 p. m. In April 27th, at 23°. XX January 3d, thermometer at 7°. §§ April aOth, thermometer at 12° at 4 ▲. m., and so high as 54° at 4 p. m. July dOth, in the sun, 125° II II December .9th, barometer at 27° 3'. December 27th, at 29° T, ^^ August 26th, Aurora Borealis extremely brilliant about 10 p. m., and the noisp distinctlv heard by persons whose veracity cannot be doubted. It resembled the sound of distant waters. CRAWFORD. 329 they are frequently from east and north-east, and are generally cold and dry. The heaviest rains are supposed to fall in the month of September. The old inhabitants state that deep snows are less frequent than in former times. As the parish has in general rather a northern exposure, and the lowest part of it towards the north-west is about 850 feet above the level of the sea, the climate cannot be supposed to be very ge- nial, yet it cannot be said to be unhealthy. Rheumatism seems to be the only prevailing disorder with which the inhabitants are afflicted, — no doubt occasioned by the fogs and damps prevalent at high altitudes. Hydrography. — This parish abounds with springs of the purest water. Two of these send forth mineral waters resembling those of Moffat. They are all on one line, and about eight miles distant from each other ; but the springs in this parish have never been Malyzed. There is a spring on the boundary of the parish which possesses a strong petrifying quality, and all the fog around it is ^ed into stone, from whence beautiful specimens are often taken. There is another spring in the parish at Campshead still stronger. The Clyde is the principal river which takes its rise in this pa- rish; all the others flow into it, except the Evan, which joins the ^nan near Mofiat The source of the Clyde is about 1400 feet above the level of the sea, and upwards of fifty miles from Glasgow, hruns in a small stream till it joins the Daer, a very considerable "ver which takes its rise near the boundary of Closeburn parish. The Clyde receives a number of tributary streams in this parish. " has a north-west direction, with a gentle declivity, and flows over * hroad gravelly bed. It leaves the parish at Abington, when it ^es a north-east direction by Lamington. Geology, — To those interested in the study of the transition "focks of that particular series which forms the greater part of the southern high land of Scotland, this parish affords many facilities, "ere, as in other districts of the mountainous region of southern ^tland, greywacke, with its subordinate formations, predominates. Soil — The soil which chiefly abounds in the parish is the moor soil. ^D the banks of the Clyde the soil is rich. Cultivation is carried ®^ chiefly on the banks of the Clyde, and at the junction of the s^er streams with the Clyde. Within this small space are found Nsof various kinds, gravelly, sandy, loamy, and alluvial. By the "^provements that have taken place, in consequence of the use of "nie, the regular change of early seed, and the cultivation of green 330 LANARKSHIRE. crop, the harvest is now much earlier than in former times, and the crops much more abundant. IL — Civil History. It is supposed that in the charter-chest of the Marquis of Lo- thian, there are a variety of papers which, if examined, might illus- trate the state of the parish before the Reformation. A chapel or church at Crawford was dedicated to Constantino, King of the Scots, about the year 943 ; and the greater part of the parish be- longed at one time to the monastery of Newbattle, and the lesser part to Holyrood. Eminent Men, — The celebrated poet Allan Ramsay was a na- tive of this parish. He was born at Leadhills, and lived there for fifteen years, when he went to Edinburgh, and commenced a cir- culating library. James Taylor, son of one of the overseers of the mines, first suggested to Mr Miller of Dalswinton, the idea of propelling ves- sels by the power of steam, and assisted that gentleman in his ex- periments. He was born here in the year 1757, and died at Cum- nock in 1825. Setting aside the invention of Jonathan Hulls in 1736, which led to no practical use, the above individual has cer- tainly the distinguished honour of first applying steam power to propel vessels on water. The successful experiments were made at Dalswinton in 1788. * William Symington, practical engineer, was likewise a native of this village, and deserves notice from his having been employed by Mr Miller and Mr Taylor in fitting up the steam-engine on board the pleasure boat at Dalswinton, and afterwards suggesting the application of that power to land-carriages. Land-Owners. — The chief land-owners in the parish are, in the order of their valuations, Lord Hopetoun, Henry Colebrooke, Esq. Lord Balgray, Lord Douglas, the Duke of Buccleuch, George Ir- ving, Esq. and Mr John Forsyth ; there are five other smaller land-owners. Parochial Registers, — The earliest date of the parochial regis- ter is 1707. This register has been regularly kept, but is nowm a very bad state. Antiquities. — Although there are no remains of religious houses • For a more particular account of this splendid discovery, reference may be made to a biographical sketch of Mr Taylor in No. 68 of Chambers* Edinburgh Journal ; also a Brief Account of the rise and progress of steam navigation, with an impartial inquiry into the claims of the principal pretenders to the honour of that important discovery, lately printed at Ayr ; and lastly to the newspapers at the period of the discovery. . CRAWFORD. 331 in the parish except the old church, yet it is evident, from various circumstances, that there were at one time many houses or places of worship. One place, in particular, is pointed out as an ancient burying-ground, and lies on the bank of what is called the Chapel Burn. There are two or three apparently old Roman camps in the pa- rish. The one that is most entire, and the largest, is on Boads- berry hill, the property of George Irving, Esq. The other is on the farm called Whitecamp, and lies towards Tweedsmuir. The two great Roman roads by Moffat and Dumfries had their junction io this parish, which, when formed into one great road, passed on towards Lamington. The old Castle of Crawford or Tower Lindsay bears every mark of having been strongly fortified and surrounded by water. There ^ various traditions regarding it, but none of these appear parti- cularly interesting. The farm-houses in ancient times were gene- ^Ily vaulted, and served as small fortifications. This was neces- sary during the times when the Douglas family and Johnstone of Annandale were carrying on their petty wars, and when the bor- derers were committing their ravages. Some years ago an earthen vessel or urn was dug up on the castle farm, which contained somithing like small pieces of bone. This urn is in the possession of Mr James Watson, the present tenant. Mansion-House. — The only new modern building is Newton House. It was built a few years ago by. the late Lord Newton, *Wly on a plan formed by his Lordship, and is both substantial and commodious. III. — Population. It appears that the population of this parish was in former ^inies much greater than at present At the time of Dr Web- ^^r*s Report in 1755, the population was 2009 ; at present it is 1850. The practice, which now so generally prevails in this coun- ^Tfj of uniting many small farms into one, is no doubt the chief ^^**ise of the decrease. There is, perhaps, no parish where this Pi^tice has so generally prevailed as in this; and, indeed, nearly ^"6 half of this extensive parish is in the hands of non-resident ^^ants, — the resident tenants occupying only two or three farms. *" the memory even of the present generation, fifteen families lived *here there is now scarcely the vestige of a ruin. Other parts of ^"^e parish show the same marks of depopulation. 332 LANARKSHIRE. The population is thus distributed : — In the town or village of Crawford, 217 Leadhills, 1188 In the country part of the parish. 445 The average of births, - . - - 59 deaths, - - - - 26 marriages, - - - - 13 persons under 15 years of age, 578 above 70, - - - 23 ITie nuniber of families in the parish is _ - - 4C6 chiefly employed in agriculture, - 59 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, S5 not included under either of these descripl Lions, . 312 All the proprietors of land, to the number of twelve, possess land upwards of the yearly value of L. 50. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — Notwithstanding the extent of the parish, the arable ground is very limited, being not more than 1200 acres. As the parish is chiefly pastoral, it is diflicult to say to what extent improvements might be carried on with advantage to the tenant. A very few hundred acres might perhaps be added to the arable grounds ; but it is the opinion of the judicious farmer, that much improvement might be made by turning up large tracts of rough moorlands, and sowing them with various kinds of grass seeds ; and by adding a portion of lime, according to the nature of the soil. There is no natural wood in H)ephere must be moist and rains frequent : but as we have no P^or undrained marshes, the people are in general healthy, and ^ many instances live to a very advanced age. On the 28th day ^ July 1829, the thermometer at the manse stood at 83"" in the f*^ : and on one day towards the beginning of the same month "* the year 1834, at 82*^. These are the greatest heights observ- ^ hy the writer for the last seven years. On the evening of Ja- **^ the 17th of the present year it stood as low as 10^ Bifdroffraphy. — Towards the southern extremity of the parish^ ^ a spring which has generally been considered to have a petrify- ^ power. The moss by which it is bordered is completely in- uarated, and many beautiful specimens have been preserved, which Ukark. z i 342 LANARKSHIRE. have all the appearance of having undergone a regular process of pe- trifaction. But upon a closer examination, it is found that the moss has by no means been converted into stone, but only been cover- ed over with it, having received a deposition of the incrusting car- bonate of lime. The only stream of any consequence is Culter. water, which, after dividing the parish lengthways nearly into two equal parts, falls into the Clyde, about half a mile beneath the vil- lage. The Clyde itself forms the western boundary for about two miles. At the point where it leaves the parish, the river makes a remarkable bend, changing its course from N. E. to N. W. and this is the first of the many great curves which it makes in its pro- gress to the sea. * Geology. — Sandstone does not occur within our bounds, al- though conglomerate or puddingstone is found in some places* The hills are composed chiefly of greywacke, the common blue whinstone of the peasantry, so prevalent all over Tweeddale. The soil is of great variety, as is generally the case where the surface is very uneven. In the lower grounds it is a sandy loam, not very deep, but dry, and when well managed never fails to yield the hus- bandman an ample return. On the braes and hills it is much lighter ; and towards the eastern or Kilbucho part of the parish it inclines to clay. Moss may be seen on the tops of the highest hills, and in some particular spots of the lower grounds ; but the general character of the soil is that it is hard and dry. Foot-rot among the sheep is altogether unknown, and in few places are they so seldom exposed to diseases of any kind. Botany. — The plants at all worthy of being called uncommon are extremely few. The following, with their several localities, are given as a specimen : Cistus Helianthemum^ found at Cultercraigs and several other places ; Geum urhanurrij growing abundantly in a ditch at Hartree ; Ononis arvensisy seen scantily near Cornhill ; Rubus suberectus and Primula veris^ both found in Culterallers * At Wolf* Clyde, the point above-mentioned, a curiosity may sometimes be seen, viz. the Clyde running into the Tweed. The vale of Biggar-water, which here stretches berween these two rivers, is but sb'ghtly elevated above the bed of the Clyde. During a top-flood, part of the latter river sometimes finds its way into Biggar-water, and is thereby carried into the Tweed, and this happens once perhaps in three or four years. Hence it will be seen that it were a very easy matter to send the Clyde to Berwick instead of Glasgow. Indeed a common tradition is prevalent here that the famous magician Michael Scott had nearly accomplished this. The story is, that he was marching down the vale of the Biggar, with tlie Clyde following at his heels, but that, being alarmed by the sound of the water as it came roaring behind, he looked back, and so the spell was broken, and the vagrant waters returned into their wonted channeL Of course little were the Glasgow folks dreaming of the peril to which their city was exposed. CULTBB. 343 yiooA ; OhfhiM tjfhatieMs BnA Tumlagopetasites^ near Culter water; Saxyragagramilataj near Wolf-Clyde Bridge; Sderanthugannumj top of Crosscroin ; Malva matchaUij road near the village ; and tMuM Chamamorus^ towards the top of the Fell. At Culterallers is the only piece of copse to be found either in the parish or n^ghboorfaood* It consists of several acres, and has the following trees growing in a natural state : The sloe, the birch, the aiders the hazel, the hawkberry or bird-cherry, the rowan or mountain* ash, and many different kinds of the willow. In only one place (Kingsbeck-bum) is the juniper to be seen. Trees that have been planted are of the common kinds, but these are too numerous to be given in detail. Some attain to a very large size. At Nis- bet is a very fine plane of the following dimensions : height of tnrnk 10 feet : girth of trunk at 3 feet from the ground 12^ feet. The branches cover a circle 66 feet in diameter. This is no con- temptible tree, standing, as it does, at an altitude of about 650 feet ftbove the level of the sea. Im Old Maple Tree. — The following description of this tree ^ taken from Sir Thomas D. Lauder^s Edition of Gilpin's Forest Scenery : — ^* A maple at Culter, in Clydesdale, measured in the T^ 1800, at the height of three feet from the ground, was found to be 8 feet in circumference : at the height of three feet it divides into two arms, one of which at two feet above the trunk measures ^ feet round ; the other at the same height above the trunk mea- sures 4 feet 2 inches round." These were its dimensions in 1800, >s taken by Dr Walker, then Professor of Natural History in the University of Edinburgh. Its dimensions in the year 1835 are the following : — At the height of three feet above the ground the cir- cumference is 10 feet ; of the larger arm at two feet above the trunk *ne circumference is 7 feet, 6 inches ; of the lesser arm at the same b^t the circumference is 5 feet The branches cover a circle, the J^naeter of which is 57 feet. This very fine tree stands directly ]u front of the mansion-house of Mr Baillie of Culterallers, and ^ understood to be the largest of the kind in Scotland, with the ^<*ption of one at Roseneath, belonging to the Duke of Argyle. ''om a comparison of the above measurements may be seen wliat "^.been its increase for the last thirty-five years. The tree that holds the predominance in this parish and district * the Scoth fir ; and the result here, as in other places where it b^ been planted in a light soil and very exposed situation is, it ftriyes very well for about twenty or thirty years : it then begins 344 LANARKSHIRE. to decayi and finally dies at a premature old age. This melancboly spectacle is but too common in this parish. Several plantations on the higher grounds and lighter soils are fast dying out, and ere long must totally disappear, — an eyil which might have been avoided if, instead of the fir, had been planted the larch, and the many other kinds of trees which might have been found better suit- ed to the soil. II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — The oldest register bears date 1700. The sederunts of session are recorded continuously from that date down to the present time ; but there is no record of births, bap- tisms, marriages, or deaths, from 1721 to 1737. For this blank no cause can now be assigned. The whole sessional accounts and records are contained in five books or volumes. During the in- cumbency of the Rev. Mr Forrester, ordained in 1700, these do- cuments seem to have been kept with considerable care ; but ge- nerally speaking, afterwards, very little attention has been bestow- ed upon them. Land-owners.* — Besides Mr White, farmer in Shaw, who jointly with another person has lately purchased that farm, the land- owners are the following: David Dickson, Esq. of Hartree and Kilbucho; Robert Granbery Baillie, Esq. of Culterallers; Adam Sim, Esq. of Cultermains; William Bertram, Esq. of Nisbet; Robert Paterson, Esq. of Birthwood, and Robert Bruce Camp- bell, Esq. of Cornhill. With the exception of Mr Bertram, the whole of these reside on their respective properties, and for the most part during the whole year. Eminent men. — Anthony Murray, minister of the parish dur- ing the religious persecutions of Charles II. is mentioned by the historians of these times in terms of the highest commendation. He belonged to the suffering party, and seems to have been a lead- ing man. It appears from Wodrow that he was related to the • The following extract from Chalmers* Caledonia throws some light on the pro- prietorship of the parish in ancient times. ** During the reign of David 1 1, the half of the barony of Cultcr was held by Walter By set of the King in capUe^ and Byset stated that it br.d been so held by his ancestors. In ld67> W^ter Byset granted to William Newbiggin of Dunsyre, all his lands in the barony of Culter, except the lands of Nisbet ; and he also granted the patronage of the church with these lands, to be held by Newbiggin and his son David, of the King. In 1367, Sir Archibald Dou- glas the Lord Galloway obtained, on the resignation of Walter Byset of Clerking- ton, a charter of the lands of Clerkington in Edinburghshire, and the half of the barony of Culter in Lanarkshire. On the J 0th of December 1449, William Earl of DonglM obtained a charter of the half of the land near the parish church of Cul- ter, ana of the advowson of the same church. The right of these was forfeited by his successor James Earl of Douglas in 1465.** 3 CULTER. 345 DocheiB of Laudenhle, and that, on acoouDt of this oonnexioii, he was delegated by the influential ministers of the day to present an address to the Duke in farour of the Nonconfonnbts.* A tradition, which is still prevalent, says, that, after being prohibited from preaching, be continued to reside in the parish, and supported him- self by his medical skill, obsenring facetiously, that Now he would make the doctor keep the minuter. He outlived these troublous times, and died minister of the parish, as is testified by the inscrip- tion on his tombstone in the church-yard. Under this head may be also mentioned the late Dr Jackson, 80 well known by his excellent work on finer^ and numerous other valuable contributions to medical science. He was not a native of Colter, but his father came to the parish whilst he was very young, and here his boyhood was spent. jlntiquUies. — A little way below the village, on the virest side of Culter water, is a place called Chapel-hill, where once stood a house belonging to the Knights- Templars, founded by Walter Bysset, in the reign of David II. At that time the church of Cul- ter belonged to the Abbey of Kelso. A keen dispute having arisen on one occasion between the abbot and the master of the Templars, about tithes alleged to have been due to the Abbey, the latter, in his unwillingness to pay, gave an instance of special pleading, which must appear a curiosity to all who have seen the place to which reference is made. *^ The master and brethren pleaded, that their order enjoyed a general exemption from pay- ing tithes; also that the parish church of Culter, standing on the other side of a great river, on which there was no bridge, was sel- dom accessible to them vrithout great danger.'^f All things seem formidable to an unwilling mind. The great river here spoken of is Culter water, a stream of a few paces in width, and which is not so large, even once in half a dozen of years, that it may not be forded. In the last Statistical Account, mention is made of four cir- cular encampments, popularly called Castles, the Use of which seems to have been to afford temporary security to the inhabitants and ** Sir Da^id Meodes, laird of one half of the barony of Culter in Lanarkshire, gave the whole of his part of the land called Wolfclyde to the convent (of Melrose) in 1431. After the Reformation this land came into the possession of Sir WiUiam Mcn- iiM of Gladstones." MortonU Monastic Jtemaku, p. 276. It is worth remarking that (ha hmds of ViToUclyde, now a part of Hartree estate, pay a few shillings annually to iha Duke of Bucdeuch, in right of the Abbey of Melrose, of which his Grace is Liord of Erectioa. * Wodrow*8 History, Vol. ii. page 349. t Mortonls Monastic Remains of Teviotdale, p. 144. 346 LANARKSHIRE. their cattle in times of civil or predatory warfare. And to these may be added two round mounds or moatsj one at Wolf- Clyde, and one at Bamflat, anciently employed as watch-towers and signal posts. A chain of these artificial mounds can easily be traced all along the vale, running between the Clyde and Tweed, and from these the inhabitants of the one district telegraphed to those of the other, when danger was near. In the midst of a morass, half a mile north-east from the farm of Nisbet, may be seen a very singular remnant of antiquity. A mound of an oval shape, called the Green Knowe, measuring about thirty yards by forty, rises about two or three feet above the sur- face of the surrounding bog. On penetrating into this elevated mass, it is found to consist of stones of all different kinds and sizes, which seem to have been tumbled promiscuously together without the least attempt at arrangement Driven quite through this su- perincumbent mass, are a great number of piles, sharpened at the point, about three feet long, made of oak of the hardest kind, re- taining the marks of the hatchet, and still wonderfully fresh. A causeway of large stones connects this mound with the firm ground. All around, it is nothing but soft elastic moss; and beneath it too, — for on cutting through the bed of stones you immediately meet with moss. No vestige of lime has ever been found near the place. The spot was probably chosen for concealment or protec- tion to man or cattle, perhaps to both. The thick stratum of loose stones would afford firm footing, — the oaken piles driven through the bed of stones would consolidate them, and hold them together like a pavement ; whilst the surrounding marsh would keep off" the aggressor. Near the spot are the remains of some very large trees. Suppose the whole morass to have been a wood, might not the cattle during a sudden foray have been driven into this encamp- ment as a place of concealment ? For who would think of search- ing for them in a moss ? All this, however, is conjecture, and con- jecture for which there will soon be no data. The mound for many years has been used as a quarry ; hundreds of cart loads of stones have been taken from it, and at this date the work of demolition goes on. 1 1 1. — Population. Culter proper being in Lanarkshire, and the part of Kilbucho annexed being in the county of Peebles, the population of each is here given separately. CULTEa. 347 In I75ft» the population of Old Culter wat 432 In 179l» 326 In 1801 369 In 1811, 415 In 1821 467 In 1881 497 Of these 175 were found to live in the village of Culter, and the remaining 322 in the country part of the parish. In 1811, the population of the Kilbucbo part of the pariib was 183 In 1821, 100 In 1881, 171 In CulUr. Noober of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of !iO years of age, 8 women, including widows, upwards o£ 45, - -> 20 Jn the KiUmcho part of the parish, Nmdier of unmarried men bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50, . . women, including widows, upwards of 45, . . 2 h 1831, the population of the united parish was 668. The average number of births yearly for the last seven years, according to the public register, is 9^ ; but many are not registered. The average number of deaths for the same period is 5^ ; and of mar- nages 5. The average number of children in a family is 4, if ^ take account only of those families where children actually re- ^de; but if we include all the families in the parish the average number of each family is 3. There is one fatuous person and one "Hud; and seYen proprietors of land whose respective properties ^oeed the yearly sum of L. 50. Character of the People. — The people are of sober and indus- trious habits, respectful to their superiors, and kind and obliging in ^heir intercourse with each other. With few exceptions, they are '^^gular in their attendance on jaublic worship, and the other ordi- ^ces of religion ; and a thoroughly profligate or reckless person '^ not to be found among them. No lover of his country, however, <^ fail to deplore the growing prevalence of an evil which was ^mparatively unknown to our forefathers, the unlawful intercourse of the sexes, especially among the poorer and more dependent classes of the community. There were four illegitimate births in the (>arish during the last three years. The writer would by no means insinuate that this vice is peculiarly prevalent here. But it does pre- vail in this parish in common with the other parishes of the bounds, and it is to be feared of Scotland generally : And it is an evil omen of the times, and threatens ere long to bring down the common people of Scotland from that high station of respectability and moral worth which they have occupied so long, and which perhaps never has been attained by the people of any other nation. The Christian .philan- thropist hopes that true religion may be on the increase ; but the 348 LANARKSHIRE. hope is damped by the consideration, that ^^ the Wisdom which cometh down from above is first pureJ^ IV. — Industry. The tables under this head are again given separately, in order that it may be seen what portion of the parish lies in Lanarkshire, and what in the county of Peebles. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — Old Culter contains 9950 imperial acres, of which there are either cultivated or occa- sionally in tillage, . , 2671 Of lands which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly in pasture there are .....•• 6871 Acres in a state of undivided common, ..... q Acres planted are, ...... 408 The Kiltmcho part of the parish contains 1597 imperial acres. Of these there are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, . • . . 1319 Of lands which never have been cultivated and which remain constantly in pas- ture, there are 251 Acres in a state of undivided common are • Acres planted are, 9...«87 In the united parish, there are still perhaps from 100 to 200 acres which might be profitably brought under the plough* Rent ofljandj Wages^ Sfc. — There is great diversity in the qua- lity, and consequently in the rent of arable land. Whilst some of the better sort might be let as high as L. 4 or perhaps L. 5 per acre, a still greater proportion would scarcely bring 15s. ; but the average may be given at L. 1, 3s. The average rent of grazing is at the rate of L. 3 per cow or full-grown ox ; L. 2 per head of young cattle ; and 5s. 6d. per ewe or full-grown sheep. Wages are the same as in the neighbouring parishes. Breeds of Cattle. — The sheep with which our hills are pastured are of the short or black-faced kind. No other kind has ever been tried, as the grounds are reckoned too hard and bare for rearing a finer species. They are all regularly smeared with tar and oil at the approach of winter. The horses are mostly of the Clydesdale, and the cows of the Ayrshire breed. Upon this latter kind of stock a very great improvement has been made of late years. Till very lately the cows in this district were neither of the Teeswater, Ayrshire, nor of any regular and approved breed, but a mixture of all the different kinds ; but now a fine animal is known and appre- ciated, and consequently the inferior kinds are rapidly disappearing. This amelioration of stock we owe in a great measure to a Farmer's Society instituted in Biggar, which has an annual competition, at which stock of all the different kinds is exhibited, and prizes duly awarded. Husbandry. — Whilst our farmers have been improving their CULTEB. 349 lifB stock, they hanre not been stationary in the improvement of their lands. Their brms are managed pretty much on the com- moD rotation plan, viz. first oats, then green crop, then barley, then bty, and lastly pasture, which last is allowed to continue for one, two or more years, according to the quality of the land. Lime, iriiick is driven from a distance of seven miles, is plentifully applied, and on new land yields a rich return. It seems to be generally agreed, however, that, when repeatedly applied to the same field, its effiset is greatly diminished, and the farmer sees more and more the necessity of resting his land. Big or bear is fast disappearing, and bsrley coming in its place. Till the last two or three years, there lasnot a field of wheat in the parish, but now there is scarcely any bnn, however small, where it is not to be seen. Draining in all its diffiwent branches is duly attended to. The sheep-walks have been dried with sur&oe-drains, and much wet land reclaimed and reodered arable by those of the ordinary kind. The late Mr Sim of Cdtermains, erected an embankment along the Clyde nearly l^mile in length, which cost upwards of L. 1000; and calculated tint lie had, on that part of his property which he retained in his od of man, or domestic ani- mak, including the straw, - . L. 2894 12 8^ ^poCMoes, turnips, cabbages, and other plants cultivated in the fieWsforfijod. . - - - . 558 vfhty, whctlMT meadow or cultivated, - - 341 10 1177 1032 3 4 2829 8 80 ^ 119 350 LANARKSHIRE. Of land in pasture, rating it at L. 3 per cow or full grown ox ; L. 2 per head of young cattle ; and ?& per ewe or full-grown sheep, in- cluding the fleece, - - - - 709 9 Of one garden, . . .... . . 80 Miscellaneous produce not enumerated under any of the foregoing heads, 47 Total yearly value of raw produce raised in the Kilbucho part of parish, ....... L* 4575 11 84 The gross annual produce of the united parish, therefore, is L. 15,049, 18s. 5^ ; and the gross rental, as nearly as can be com- puted, is L. 5210. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town. — Biggar is the market-town and the post-town of the district The two parishes are contiguous, and the village of Culter is distant from the town of Biggar nearly three miles.* Village. — There is but one village, and, as has been already stair ed, it contains only 175 persons. It is pleasantly situated close upon Culter water. The houses are scattered along the stream, in- terspersed with fine old trees, neatly built, and in many instances adorned with honeysuckle, and flowering shrubs. It has its mill, its smithy, and small grocer's shop, and altogether presents a very pleasing aspect to the passenger. The turnpike road from Dum- fries to Edinburgh lies through its centre by an excellent bridge, built a few years ago. Means of Communication. — The Dumfries road now mentioned is carried through the parish for the space of nearly four miles ; and the parish roads are kept in good repair. Where there are hills the roads must often be uneven, and such is the case here ; but no pains are spared to render them smooth and dry. The parish roads are about ten miles long. Ecclesiastical State.f — The church, which was built in 1810, and contains 350 sitters, is situated conveniently enough for the bulk of the people.J Within it is sufficiently commodious, but the exterior is plain and tasteless, which is the more to be regret- ted, as the beautiful site and splendid trees amid which it stands, would have done ample justice to a handsomer building. The • Culter is distant from Edinburgh 30 miles, from Glasgow 36, from Lanark 1 1, and from Peebles 17. + Chalmers in his " Caledonia'* says, that " Richard, the parson of Culter, witnes- sed a charter of Hugh de Biger on the 14th of February 1228-9, and he appears as parson of Culter before that time. In 1296, Mestre de Tillol, the parson of Culter, swore fealty to Edward I. Thomas de Ballasky was rector of the church of Culter in 1388. George Shoreswood was one of the King's clerks, and rector of Culter in the reign of James II." And we learn from the same authority, that " at the Kefor* mation this benefice was held by Mr Archibald Livingston, who reported in 1562 that the revenues of the parsonage and vicarage of Culter were leased by him for 160 merks yearly." $ None of the seats are paid for, but none are common, they being divided among the heritors according to their respective valuations. CULTER. 351 miDse was buOt in 1774^ and is still in a state of ?ery good re- piir. It has an orchard in front, and a steep hill coyered with lood to the top, behind, and is the very beau ideal of a quiet par- noage. The glebe consists of 8 or 8]^ acres of excellent land ; it vdl enclosed all around, and might be let for about L. 25. The stipend is L. 208 in money, with twelve bolls, three firlots of oat- meal, and the interest of L. 282, 12s. lodged in the Royal Bank of Scotland. This latter sum is the half of the price obtained for Kilbucho glebe when that parish was suppressed. By order of the Court of Session it must lie in the bank till it can be invested in hud contiguous to the glebe of Culter. In the meantime the in- wrest forms an item in the living. The families presently in con- nection with the Establishment are 1(H); the average numberof com- nnmicants yearly is 290, and the average number of young persons admitted to the communion for the first time is 12. The dissent- ing fiunilies are 23, partly connected with the Relief, and partly with the United Secession church. There is neither chapel nor dissenting meeting-house of any kind. The Dissenters attend their req)ective places of worship in. Biggar, to which, indeed, a great proportion of this parish are nearer than to their own parish church. CoUecticms have been made in the church from time to time, in sui^rt of the Infirmary of Edinburgh, the Assembly's Schools, Kbleahd Missionary Societies, and for other charitable and religious purposes, the amount of which may be estimated at L. 5 yearly. Education, — The parochial school is the only one for general education. On it, however, the Kilbucho part of the parish is no- ^js dependent. It has still a school of its own : for the legal man- date that swept away the church spared the school.* In the school of Culter are taught Greek, Latin, practical mathematics, and geography, besides the more ordinary branches of education. The Cher's salary is L. 34, 4s. with a small garden ; and as the quar- ter fees bring about L. 20, his income, exclusive of the dwelling- noose, is rather more than L. 54. No part of the parish is so dis- ^t as to prevent the attendance of the young, and there is not ^ individual upwards of six or seven years of age who is unable te read. It may also be mentioned, that a Sabbath school is con- ducted by the writer of this article and the schoolmaster, which is *^nded by an average number of scholars of about thirty-five. Con- At the election of the present schoolmaster of Kilbucho the minister of Brough- ^ olgeeted to the vote of the minister of Culter. A long dispute ensued, but the jitter being ultioiatclv referred to the arbitration of Sir James Mongomery, Bart. ^9ne a deoiuoD in fitTOur of the minister of Culter, awarding to each of thQ two '^luitsten an eiitial vote in the election of schoolmaster for Kilbuchoi 352 LANARKSHIRE. nected with the Sabbath school is a small library but lately begun; and this is the only one in the place ; but the want is in some measure supplied by the vicinity of Biggar, where there are several very good libraries, and where books of all kinds may easily be found. Poor and Parochial Funds. — At present, there are five regular paupers on the roll. Of these two are very old women ; two wi- dows with families, and one an old man with a family. They re- ceive on an average Ln 4, lOs. a-year, a sum which would be in- adequate for their support were they totally incapacitated for la- bour ; but all of them can do something for themselves. — Besides these, there are several others who receive occasional help from the session, in the form of house-rents, coals, and small donations of money. To meet this outlay, there are the church collections, which average for the last seven years L. 32 a-year, with L. 4, 4s. of yearly interest upon L. 105, the only lying fund belonging to the poor. Hitherto these sources have yielded a suflScient sup- ply without either assessments or extraordinary collections of any kind. But how long this state of things may continue is uncer- tain, as the reluctance to receive assistance from the public fund, though slowly, is perceptibly on the decrease. Bequests for the Education of the Poor. — The session have under their management the following sums, the interest of which goes to the education of poor children. 1. L. 18^ understood to have been mortified by the Rev. Anthony Murray, previously mention- ed. 2. L. 40 mortified by William Nisbet^ saltman in Biggar, who died in 1820. 3. L. 100 mortified by the late David Sim, Esq. of Cultermams, who died at London in 1834. This latter bequest is for ^^ the education and clothing of a boy or girl in the parish of Culter, of poor and industrious parents." Inns, — We have no public-house nor inn of any kind. The heritors, seeing that nothing of the kind is needed, do not allow any to be kept, by which wise resolution, whilst they do no injury to the community at large, they lay this parish under very great ob- ligations. FtbeL — Almost the only fuel used is coal, driven from Douglas, a distance of eleven miles, and costing 7s. 6d. per cart of four loads, each load consisting of about three cwt. Miscellaneous Observations. It appears from the last Statistical Account, that this parish was in a forward state as far back as 1793. The writer of that account tells us, that in the lowland part of the parish <^ the ground was mostly either well enclosed with hedge and ditch, or covered with CULTER. 353 thriving plantations ;" that << many thousand trees had also been {^ted in different parts of the parish within the last seven or eight jeus f that *' the proprietors seemed to vie with each other in im- provements;^ and that '^ enclosed land was let at an average of bom L 1, 10s. to Ifc 2 per acre." The improvements thus early begun have been going on steadily and progressively ever since, as win appear when we have mentioned some of the more remarkable dttfigesthatbavetakenplacewithintheperiodnowreferred to. Since 1791 the population has been increased by an addition of 171 ; the lental has been nearly trebled ; a new church has been built ; a new sdiool and sdiool-house, and a new bridge over Culter water. Snee tben^ an elegant mansion-house has been erected by Mr OunpbeU of ComhilL The wooden ploughs which were then in use kme almost totally disappeared, and their place been supplied by othersmadeof iron. The labourof hoeinghasbeengreatlyabridged I7 the mtroduetioo of the drill harrow, an implement then alto- gether unknown. The church collections have risen from L. 8 to L82 annuaUy; farm-houses and cottages have been either re- hnk or undergone a sufficient repair ; and agriculture in all its bniDches is much better understood and more successfully prac- tiied. Plantations also have been greatly extended, and are still extending ; and, vrith some exceptions referred to under a former ar- ticle, are healthy and thriving. For many of these improvements, the parish is indebted to the late John Dickson, Esq. of Hartree, the principal landed proprietor within its bounds. He first introduced many of the most approved modes of husbandry into this district, ^ a time when the art was but little understood ; and gave an im- pulse to a spirit for planting at a time when trees were indeed '^ few Md far between." Mr Dickson, having survived what Dr John- ^^ calls The frightful interval between the seed and the timber, ^ in May last at a very advanced age. The heritors, who are ^^^ in number, are all resident with but one exception. The advantages resulting from such a state of society must be obvious 1^ sny one. Money is plentifully circulated ; regular employment ^pven to tradesmen and labourers of every kind ; the church col- '^ions are large, whilst the number needing parochial aid is com- paratively small ; courtesy and good breeding are diffused on every *Qe; the richer and poorer classes are brought into frequent and ''^tiinate intercourse with each other ; and that kindly bond of con- ^'^rioii is formed between landlord and tenant, which constitutes ^ oooe the happiness and strength of the country. <% 1835. PARISH OF BIGGAR. PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TW£EDDAL£. THE REV. JOHN CHRISTISON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History* Name and Boundaries. — In ancient charters, the name is gene* rally written Biger and sometimes Bigre. Its origin is very doubt* ful, but probably, as Chalmers thinks, from the Scoto-Irish words big^ tkir, pronounced bipWy and signifying soft land. This de- scription does not apply to the parish generally, nor even to the land immediately around the town ; but the old castle of the family of Biggar stood in the middle of a morass, and this circumstance, which has evidently given rise to its own name 2?o^hall, may be thought to justify the derivation now given of the name of the parish. Biggaris a border parish of Lanarkshire, on the south-east, where it marches with the county of Peebles. It is bounded on the south by Culter and Kilbucho ; on the east by Skirling ; on the n orth by Dolphinton and Walston ; and on the west by Libberton. Its length from the south-west, where it is washed for about 800 yards by the Clyde, to its north-eastern extremity, is 6^ miles. It approaches the form of a triangle, and contains 11^ square miles, or 5852 Scots acres. Topographical Appearances. — There is a good deal of level land in the parish, but generally speaking it is hilly. The hills are of moderate elevation, sometimes half forming themselves into ridges, but in general pretty much detached. Their near equality in point of height, their gentle acclivities, round backs, and surfaces unbrok- en by natural wood, rock, or torrent, preclude all picturesque ef- fect, but they present nevertheless a very pleasing aspect. To- wards the south, they subside into a plain of considerable extent. This plain, which is the lowest land in the parish, is about 628 feet above the level of the sea. The town^ which stands on a gentle elevation between it and the hills, is 695 feet, the ridge of heights north-west of the town, 1260, and Bizzyberry, on the north-east, 1150. I Gimate. — From the elevated situation oftlie parish, we have ne- cessanlj a keen atmosphere and severe winters, yet from the dry- Dess of the soil, and from our being equally out of range of the eastern kaars and western rains, the climate of this parish is neither udampnorcold as that of many lower situations. Cold easterly winds 1dow in spring, but the prevailing wind during the remainder of the ;e« is the south-west, which acquires great force as it passes through tbeiale of Clyde, sometimes sweeping this parish with untempered nolence. The parish of Biggar used to suSer so much from autum- nal frosts that the grain produced on some of the low-lying farms could not be used as seed above once in four or five years. Since 1617, these frosts have almost entirely disappeared. One undoubt- ed cause of this is the extensive draining of the low lands, which has taken place since that time. The following tables have been constructed from a book of daily obeerrations on the weather kept by Mr Alexander Watt^ late te- UDt in Biggar mill. The hour of observation was nine o'clock in dttereDitig, the place 665 feet above the level of the sea, Longi- tude »> 26' W., Latitude 55° 37' N. Monthly Mean Temperature. IBK «•.« 33°.5B 37°.32 4f.aj U5°.90 SO".. ■ "a38.l642.4e(3.005I 6^36 .03 38 .aoL» .35 64 .031 . .eO|34 .71 38 .90 41 .00 43 .80 SO .M\51 : .4^ rS .^J^S7 .3^ 40 .93 47 .04 ' .4H 33 .£0|33 .06|4I .53146 .93 . 54 .7(1 31 .39 M..tP|43.I( Monthly Mean Height of the Barometer. I Wb(,'. [ A'./.. I (Jrt- 29.!)l,30.ril)2tl.lCi2&.8J 31.2730.11 »).23a0.3( S0.03 30.0! .10.32 20.31 rw ■I'JAK ■m m\ ■i'.ni .'!).7' "iifi ■m.h; jSU''' iO.HIi *'^*'' water rises on the north side of the pa- "■ti and when about two miles on its course passes the town of oiggar, or rather divides it ; for though the bulk of the town lies at * little distance from the left bank, a large suburb has within the "*t forty years sprung up on the right. To the traveller who en- ^n Biggar by the Carnwath road, this suburb presents a scene '''Qdedly picturesque, — houses perched on the brow of the steep , Wk, others standing lower down on the declivity, ^sloping gardens •^W, the opposite bank crowned with lofty old trees, and Biggar 356 LANARKSHIRE. water winding most circuitously along the bosom of the little val- ley. On issuing from the town, Biggar water enters a fine open vde, which includes the southern frontier of the parish, and extends to the Clyde on the one hand, and the Tweed on the other. It enters this vale about a mile and a-half from the Clyde, and after receiving a small tributary which connects it with that river, par- sues its way to the Tweed. As the Clyde in high floods sends a portion of its waters by this channel to the Tweed, Bi^pur water may be said to unite these two great rivers. Indeed, the waters of the one might all be conveyed without any great difficulty to the other. The length of the vale which extends between them is 7 miles, and its descent 25 feet. Biggar water, from its rise to its junction with the Tweed a little below Drummelzier, runs a course of 9 miles. The only other stream worth mentioning is Candy- burn, which rises in the north-east comer of the parish, divides it for the space of 3 miles from Peebles-shire, and then (alls into Biggar water. The parish is well supplied with springs, but none of them deserve particular notice. Mineralogy. — There are neither coal, limestone, nor freestone in the parish, the predominating rocks being varieties of the secondary trap and porphyry series of Jameson, (whinstone of the peasantry .^) Of these Plutonian masses the following may be mentioned: green* stone, amygdaloid, and porphyry. They are very untractable in the hands of the mason, but when once built form an excellent wall. Some fine pebbles and moss-a^tes are occasionally found in the amygdaloid rock, but are confined to the south-west quarter of the parish. Soils. — There are probably about 1000 acres of clayey soil, which are very open, and rest on an open substratum of clay or gravel. That of which there is the greatest quantity in the parish, and which prevails particularly on the higher grounds, is a light black- ish soil, incumbent on rotten whin. The epithet deaf is often ap- plied in the district to this kind of soil, and it seems much im- proved by the stimulus of lime. There are probably about 2000 acres of this ; after which, there are pretty equal proportions of sand, gravel, sandy loam, blackish loam, inclined to moss, and peat moss. The whole arable land of the parish is well adapted to turnip hus- bandry, and capable of being very easily drained where required. Botany. — There is little interesting under this head. We have no natural woods, deep ravines, or any of those localities so much prized by the botanist, who will here feel but little tempted to BIQGAR. 357 \ >** Steal along the lonely dale, In silent search, or clhnb the mountain rock, Fir*d by the nodding verdure of its brow." The following are the only plants not common everywhere) which have been observed in the parish : — Anchusa sempervirensf EpUobium angustifolium^ Ononis arvensis, Sambucus EbtduSf J%z- wmeuhu Ficaria, Scunfraga granulata^ Genista anglica^ ScrophU" laria ffemalis, and Veronica scuteUata. Somenamesof places, such as Carwood and Bizzyherry or Btuhy^ berry (hiU) would seem to indicate that woods had formerly exist- ed which have long since disappeared. Considerable remains of aider, oak, and birch, have also been dug out of the mosses, and in mauy places hazel-nuts have been discovered several feet below the surface. But whatever may have been the case formerly, the soil seems but little congenial now to the growth of natural wood. The lover of Scottish scenery will look in vain for the hazel copse, or sloe-thom thicket, or even for a patch of the trailing bramble. The only underwood is furze, broom, and in one or two places the wild rasp. This want of natural wood is in some measure com- poDsated by plantations, of which there are about 750 acres. An ^^neous notion once prevailed that the soil was best adapted to uie Scotch fir, and the consequence is, that by far too great a pro- portion of the parish bristles with plantations of that unlovely tree. A glance at the large and thriving hard wood trees at every farm steading ought to have corrected this prejudice long ago ; but it is Dow happily on the wane. In all the recent plantations, there is ^ due mixture of hard wood, which seems to make the same pro- pess, in comparison with the resinous trees, as in other parts of the country. The ash and elm are the decided favourites of the ^d> and next to these the beech and plane. The larch in gravel- ly soils and exposed situations becomes corky in the heart, and •^Is into premature decay. A method of pruning trees has originated in this parish, which ^6ll deserves public attention. MV Gavin Cree, nursery-man in %gar, the author of this improvement, has explained it at length •n the third volume of the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture. His plan is to apply the pruning-knife the third or fourth year after a ^'^ has been planted; but all that is done for some years is short- ening the lateral branches, and carefully suppressing all rivalry 'i^ith the main stem. When the tree has attained the height of fif- teen feet, it is subjected for the first time to close pruning. Tlie lowest tier of branches is cut off the first year, another tier the se- LANARK. A a 358 LANAUKSHIHE. cond, and so on, care being taken that not more than a single tier, and that always the lowest, be removed in any one season. This annual pruning goes on till about three-fifths of the whole height of the tree are cleared of branches, when the process is complete. It has been found that this method of pruning has the following advantages over that in common use : It brings the tree to a great- er height in a given time, enabling it, the author avers, to keep pace with the fastest-growing resinous trees. It causes it to make more timber in the trunk, instead of dissipating its strength among useless branches. It is so gradual a process that it does not en- feeble the growth of the tree, but enables it to cicatrize its wounds, and thus make finer wood. And finally, it enables it to afford more shelter, from the numerous branchlets and leaves thrown out by the lateral pruning. * Zoology. — Of quadrupeds, the hedgehog, rabbit, polecat, squir- rel, and weasel are common. The ermine is rather scarce. The badger and otter are seen, but very rarely. The following birds are common : — the sparrow-hawk, merlin, long-eared, brown, and barn owl, wild and teal duck, woodlark, fieldfare, goldfinch, bull- finch, gray, green, and rose linnet, redpole, common titmouse, gold-crested wren, lapwing, curlew, heron, common bunting, stone- chat, stank hen, black and red grouse, pheasant, woodcock. The black-cock has become abundant of late years. The water-crow is in small numbers. The starling used to be scarce, but has built for the last two years on the tower of the church. The king- fisher, redstart, goat-sucker, snow-flight, long-tailed titmouse, and coot are scarce. The quail has been seen, but not for many years. A bittern was shot five years ago on Biggar moss, but none have appeared since. The raven is occasionally seen passing to his haunts on Tinto. The moss^cheepcr, mufiiJi, and whitewing are three birds so called in this parish, which cannot be identified with any of acknowledged names. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices. — The battle of Biggar is celebrated by Blind Harry, but not mentioned by any other historian. It is said to have taken place between the English under Edward I. and the Scots under Wallace, and to have ended in a great victory over the invaders. Appearances still exist, and traditions float among * I'or notices and commendations of Mr Crce's system of pruning, sec Quarterly Journal of Agriculture, Vol. iii. p. 308; Sir Henry Stewart's Tlanters' Guide, seooi.d edition ; and particularly Professor I-k)w's Elements of Agriculture p. 388. BIGGAR. 359. tbe people of the district, which leave little doubt of the engage- ment. Blind Harry says it was fought on marshy ground, and tradition points to a low-lying field south-east from Biggar, where pieces of broken armour have often been gathered. The remains of a camp are also to be seen at no great distance. The English are said to have approached the field by Cors-Cryne, and the Scots from their encampment on Tinto. Wallace, it is told, some time before the battle, gained admission to the enemy's camp, dis- guised as a cadger offering to sell provisions. By this means, he ascertained their strength and position, but had no sooner depart- ed than suspicion rose, and he was instantly pursued. On reach- iagf a bridge over Biggar water, at the west end of the town, he turned on his pursuers, and putting the foremost to death made good his escape. There is still a foot bridge over the stream to the '^est of Biggar, which has been called from time immemorial " the ^f^dger^s brig." On the north side of Bizzyberry, are a hollow '^k and a spring called Wallace's seat and Wallace's well. Biggar was probably the rendezvous of the Scots army, which 'Wider Sir Simon Frazer achieved the victory at Roslin in 1302. It is at least certain that the army marched from Biggar to Ros- fin during the night previous to the battle. When Edward II. invaded Scotland in 1310, penetrating ^'irough Selkirk to Renfrew, he spent the first six days of October ^n Biggar. When the Scots army, after Cromwell's victory in Fife in 1651, niarched to England by Biggar, Leslie, according to Whitelock, ** summoned Bigger, andthe governour returned a resolute an- ^er, that he kept it for the commonwealth of England." The place thus summoned must have been Boghall Castle, which was • ^n 1651 garrisoned by the English. As Cromwell followed the ^t of the Scots army, he would probably halt some time at Biggar. In 1715, Lockhart, younger of Carnwath, raised a troop in this neighbourhood for the service of the Pretender, which after ren- dezvousing some time at Biggar, went to Dumfries, and joined Lord Kenmure. Familt/ of Fleming. — The manor of Biggar was given by David I. to Baldwin, a Flemish leader, whose descendants, though locally designed of Biggar, retain to this day the original surname of Flem- ing. Baldwin was Sherifi^of Lanark in the reign of Malcolm IV. and it has been supposed that this office became for some time he- reditary in his family. The Flemings of Biggar appear to have ,■■" ,lm e'er the more cele- cond, and so • ^^ '•^7 ,nd 1 1 60, Baldwin de and that ah , ,>"tV'J' ,te lands on Douglas «ater annual pr. ,. ' ^t^^/Sr"'"" O""*'*^ '''°"''" 1" otthotr, - •^^S'^TcoantyofWigtonintoaneari- It ha. 1 iS*i*olm Fleming, a cadet of the fa- ad.anl ., ^>*5, fell by inheriunce into the mam " "' '-. ^ .''S^nir^d in'lM7, certain lands v„.h,n pace p'^>'';^in1(382, that "h* >«""''.«06 S! "° f<'i^-4it"Stl:trea^n't^^^^^^^ .*• "Sjd his father as Lord Elph.nston. >n 1757. In ~ l^-^ entail made in 1741, those estates went to her «- ^-^IZ he Honourable Charles Elphinstone Flemmg^^' jg«nd»n, Cumbemaold, and of a small ^"'jHTrf BiS" ¥he rest ot the latter property .- Irtioii of mat 01 "'BB ^ ^ se, aside hy :r;,Sr„:T^^t^X4^.AH:eh^h„dsnperi.r,.y "tS.r^r:;^Tbe«.ere„^f;;.;-ro:S ,ki, head was the foundation ot a chaplainry m the pansn B^r, under the following unhappy """"T" on the li^^ F,.„^ng, Chamberlain of Scotland, went . '■•"'""e " th» ' Ncembor 1524, when he was attacked and ""'■»»? "."i,, ^ Tweedie of Drimimelzler, James Tweedie, h» son, and «>" complices. After a delay of some years, this affair was »» ,j 10 arbiters, who decreed that a certain assythment m uno . be given to Malcolm Lord Fleming, the son ot the "'"'"'r V ^ In obedience to another part ot the decreet, Tweedie, tne f pala^iassin, on the 10th Angusl 1531, S«- by the holding of property, with this parish. 366 LANARKSHIRE. the proprietors, by whom it is either cultivated or let annual- ly as grass parks. There are only twenty-two farms of con- siderable size in the hands of tenants, any others being small possessions let to persons who have some other employment be- sides farming. The size of farms is an important feature in the agriculture of a district. The following table will shew their extent in this parish, as well as the average rent of land. 4 Fanns. Scots acres, Rent, ster. L J 200 140 170300 ld5| 80 40 6 7660 60a)d0 142 140 140 40 U 166 60 47 60 ii 90 90 12 6*2 100 la 178 IJO 14 •>7 S3 15 IdO 10 180 123200 17 8-2 120 18 19 >791753712a 2ia 1 551601 20121 22 195 6530( Produce. — The following is the gross amount of raw produce raised every year as nearly as it can be ascertained : Acre*. . 1018 oats, at 54 bolls \yer acre, equal 5509 bolls at 16s. per boll, 147 barley, at 9 bolls per acre, equal 1323 bolls at 21s. per boll, 203 rye-grass hay, at 125 stones per acre, equal 25375 stones at 6d. per stone, -.---- 52 meadow-hay, at 1 80 stones per acre, equal 9360 stones at 3d. f)6 jiease, at 3^ bolls per acre, equal 126 bolls at 15s. per l)oll, \li wheat, at 9 bolls per acre, equal 135 bolls, at 24s per Ijoll, 18 naked fallow. ...... 184 turnip, at L. 4, lOs. per acre, ... 1 50 potatoes, at 30 bolk per acre, equal 4500 bolls at 5s. per boll, 16 tares, at L. 4, 10s. per acre, .... 750 wofxi, the annual thinnings of which may amount to 3232 pasture, the gross produce of which may amount to 15s. per acre. Produce of gardens, .... L.4470 1389 UGH 117 94 162 828 11*25 7-2 30 2424 40 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, - L. 1 2,028 V. — Parochial Economy. Toton. — In 1451 James XL erected Biggarinto a free burgh of barony " with all privileges, and particularly a weekly market on Thursday." New erections of it were made in 1526, 1588, 1634, and 1662. Biggar is the seat of a Presbytery, and of the Court of Justices, who meet four times a-year. It consists of one very wide street, stands on rising ground, enjoys a fine southern exposure, and miffht be a pretty little town if common sewers were provided to drain away the nuisance which at present stagnates on the street. In 1831 it contained 1454 inhabitants. It contains at present among others 210 weavers, 28 shoemakers, 26 masons, 20 tailors, 14 join- ers, 4 miU-wrights, 2 wheel-wrights, 2 coopers, 8 blacksmiths, 8 nailers, 2 tinsmiths, 4 watchmakers, 20 carters, 6 sawyers, 1 um- brella-maker, 1 painter, 1 plasterer, 2 slaters, 5 saddlers, 7 ped- lars, 1 veterinary surgeon, 1 nurseryman, 1 brewer, 16 spirit-deal- ers, 5 of whom are innkeepers and the rest grocers, 9 bakers, 3 butchers, 8 cloth-merchants. There are four surgeons. Some idea may be formed of the retail trade of Biggar by the following quantities of excisable articles sold during the year ending 5th July BIGGAR. 367 1835 : 2608 gallons British spirits, 80 gallons brandy, 136 gal- lons ginger wine and other shrubs, 88 dozen foreign wine, 2528 lbs. tea, 1876 lbs. tobacco and snuff. Biggar has increased in population, and improved very much in appearance of late years. Four very handsome houses have been built in it this summer, and only one of them on the site of an old one. There are 95 pro- prietors of houses, and the rental of the whole houses, as estimated for the laying on of the poors' rate, is L. 1350. Mcansof Communication. — There is a post-office in Biggar. The TCYenue arising from letters delivered has averaged L. 231, 10s. 3d. for the last four years, while for the four preceding years it only averaged L. 163, 3s. 8d. A coach from Edinburgh to Dumfries passes through the town every alternate day, and one from Glas- gow to Peebles daily during summer and autumn. The Edinburgh and Dumfries mail also passes daily within four miles of the town. There are three weekly carriers to Edinburgh, and one to Glas- gow. Carriers from Hawick to Glasgow, and from Dumfries and Sanquhar to Edinburgh, pass through Biggar once a-week, as also one from Wigton to Edinburgh once a fortnight The turnpike road from Dumfries to Edinburgh by Thornhill, Linton, and Morn- ingside, intersects this parish nearly at its greatest length, while another turnpike branches off from it about the middle of the pa- ^lij and joins the Dumfries road to Edinburgh by Moffat, Noble- "ouse, and Libberton. The whole length of turnpike within the parish is seven miles. During last year L.1500 have been spent ^^ rendering it more level. — There are fourteen miles of parish J^ds, which are kept in excellent repair. The expense of kecp- *^g them up has averaged for the last three years L. 39, 13s. 3d. a year. A new road from Biggar to Broughton is very much needed. Inis would not only be a great convenience to the district, but were '^continued round Dreva, Craig-end, and close by the Tweed, to the ^fown ford, as has often been projected, the Glasgow and Peebles ^d might then abandon the rugged hilly tract by EUsrighill, and ^fsincon, and travelling down the banks of Biggar water and the l^eed reach Peebles by a route as short and infinitely more le- ^^1 and agreeable than the present, — The road from Biggar to ^^niwath stands much in need of improvement. It ought to be diverted so as to avoid the long ascents on both sides of Garwood burn, — an object which might be accomplished by embanking it over ^he hollow of the burn above the present ford, where two steep banks approaching each other, and narrowing the intervening space, iflvite the operation. 368 LANARKSHIRE. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, though now 290 years old, is in very good repair. In 1834 it received an addition to the accommodation of 120 sittings, by the erection of a gallery, and was at the same time new-seated. A division of the area also took place last year, under direction of the Sheriflf, when it was appor- tioned among the landward heritors according to their valued rent The communion table affords 44 sittings, which are free. In a certain sense, indeed, all the seats are free, none of them being let for money, though in a few instances some small services, such as shearing in harvest, &c. may be rendered by the occupants to the proprietors. The church is conveniently situate, as there are not more than four or five families who are above three miles from it. Divine service is well attended. The average number of commu- nicants is 400. The manse, which was built in 1805, and received an addition in 1827, is a very good house. The glebe contains 10 acres, which may be worth L. 30. The stipend is 17 chalders, half oatmeal and half barley, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The average amount of stipend for the last three years is L.239, 7s. 4i%d. A congregation of Burghers was formed in this parish in 1760, and still exists. Their chapel contains 450 sittings, 360 of which are let They give their minister L. 180 per annum. There ij- also a Relief congregation, which was formed in 1780. Their cha- pel contains 700 sittings, 320 of which are let. They pay their minister L. 110 per annum. The members of these congrega- tions are collected from fifteen different parishes. Of the 404 fa- milies which this parish contained in 1831, 118 belonged to the Relief congregation, 48 to the Burghers, and 236 to the Church. Of the two remaining families one was Roman Catholic and the other Cameronian. Religious Societies. — A Bible Society was formed here in 1810, since which time it has paid away L. 950. It used to be auxi- liary to the British and Foreign Bible Society, but withdrew from that body five years ago, and is now auxiliary to the Edinburgli Bible Society. It consists indiscriminately of Churchmen and Dissenters ; but there is also a Bible and Missionary Society, con- sisting exclusively of Dissenters. Edtication. — There is only one parochial school, which is verj ably conducted by Mr John Gray. The branches taught are. Englishjwriting, arithmetic, geography, Latin, Greek, French, and mathematics. The average number of children attending the schoo! is 170. The number at present is 180, of whom 12 are learning La- DIGGAR. 3G9 tin, 6 Greek, and 8 French. Tlie fees are, for English, 2s. 6d. per quarter: English and writing, »3s., English, writing, and arithmetic, 3s. 6A, Latin, Greek, or French, 6s., forany two of these languages, 86., and for all the three, 10s. The probable amount of school fees is L 80 per annum. The salary is the maximum. The house affords more than 'the legal accommodation, but there is a defici- encyofgardenground,forwhich an allowance isgivenof L. 1, 14s. dd. Mr Gray keeps an assistant at his own expense, to whom he pays Lb24 per annum. In 1767, William Law, skinner, Biggar, mor- tffied L41 Sterling, and in 1817, William Nisbet, saltman, Big- gar, mortified L. 40 Sterling, the interest of both sums to be ap- plied in educating poor children. In 1828, L. 20 were raised by subscription, and expended in founding a library for the use of the P^ish schools. An annual sermon has since been preached in be- b^f of its funds, and a small contribution is occasionally made to them by the scholars. The library now contains 250 volumes, ^me children who live near the east end of the parish are too' ^niote from Biggar to be able to attend the school, but they are ]*^thin easy distance of Skirling, or of a side school at Ellsrighill, ^^ the parish of Walston. There is an unendowed school in Big- S^i attended by about 50 scholars, and at which the ordinary hunches are taught. literature. — A public library was instituted here in 1797, ano- ^•^er in 1800, and a third in 1807. Tlie first contains 735 vo- "'^es, the second 503, and the third, which consists exclusively of "^^'Jgious works, 680 volumes. Their aggregate number of sub- f^^'^bers is 148, and their yearly income L. 20, 6s. A public read- ^S^room was attempted in 1828, but failed after languishing a year. ^M'spapers are extensively read. Forty-five numbers of different *^glish and Scotch papers circulate through the parish weekly. -^oor and Parochial Funds, — The poor of this parish were sup- P^^'ted from 1730 to 1746 by church collections, and niort cloth ^^s, by the rent of a house and small piece of land belonging to ^^ kirk-session, by the interest of L. 250 Sterling, which had ac- ^^^ulated in their hands, and by a legal assessment of L. 100 "-^ots, on the whole valued rent of the parish. From 1746 to 1760, *^^Te is no record of transactions regarding the poor. From 1760 ^^ 1802, they were supported as during the former period, only ^here was no assessment ; and the house and land were sold in 1774, ^^d the proceeds gradually expended in aid of the other funds. *Q 1802, the assessment was resumed, and has continued ever since. In 1802, also, the principal sum of L. 250, already mention- 370 LANARKSHIRE. ed, was encroached on, and by 1815 exhausted. Previous to 1828, the assessment was laid upon land only, according to the valued rent, but since that time, houses as well as land have been as- sessed, the real rent of both being taken as the rule, and a de- duction of one-fourth being allowed, in estimating the rent of houses, for the expense of repairs. Pauperism has certainly increased here of late years. This has arisen in some measure from the depres- sed state of the weaving trade, but still more, it is to be feared, from the decay of the old independent spirit. During the year ending in February 1835 there have been raised for the mainte- nance of the poor. By assessraent at the rate of 64cl on the rent of the whole lands and houses widiin the parish, - - - - - . L. 15^ 11 P Kirk collections, - - - - - . I2]8]|9 fiell and mortclotb dues» - . - - - 689<^ Sale of the eflSscts of deceased paupers, •»- - - - 2 19 10 Total receipt for the year ending in February 1835, - - L. 175 18 87 Expetiditure, 35 Enrolled poor,» - - . - - - L. 145 11 Occasional do. - - - - - - 12 II 8 Vagrant ditto, belonging to other parishes. • - - 114 Fees to collector and treasurer of assessment, Synod and Presbytery clerks, and presbytery and church officers, - - - 9 2 6 New rc^tration book and incidental expenses, - . . 17 3 Total disbursements for year ending in February ]835i - L. 169 3 9 * It may be worth while to subjoin the following tabular view of the state of the enrolled poor of tlie parish, for the year ending as above. It may furnish the means of comparison with the scale of parochial relief in other parishes. The relations bound to support are all grown up, unless where otlierwise mentioned. Ground of claim, other means ofaup' Monthly aU ^ portfire Nation* bound in law to support, "^ Males. 79. Infirm, wife so too, lodges vagrants, 3 sons and 2 daughters, - J 85. Infirm, cannot work any, a son, 2 daugh- ters, and a grandson, 86. Bed-rid, lodges vagrants, 1 daughter, 66. Disabled by accident, can work none, 1 son and 2 daughters, 55. Wants a leg, worlu a little, 1 son and 2 daughters, 78k Infirm, can work none, 1 son & daughter, 35. Disabled by accident/ unable to work, 40. An idiot, ... 42. Diseased, has 2s. 6d. a week from a so- ciety, 5 children, all young. Females. 50. Infirm, has an annuity of L. 1, 85. Infirm, can work none, 35. Weak in mind, works a little, 65. Infirm, works a little, 1 son & 2 daughters, 63. Do. lodges vagrants, 67. Do. works a little, 3 sons, 57. Diseased & bed-rid, cannot work, 4 sons, 70. Infirm, works very little, 1 daughter, lowance in Money, Pent and Coals, Total/or rear. 5 L,l L.4 6 6 1 1 17 1 5 9 4 18 4 1 1 3 9 5 5 10 1 6 8 1 2 4 5 6 16 2 2 2 5 5 4 5 5 6 5 6 2 6 16 1 1 12 1 1 4 5 6 2 10 4 10 4 1 4 1 5 4 4 1 BIGGAK. 371 Friendly Societies. — There are four of these in the parish. tst. institut 1 786, pres. stock L.GGO, memb. 220, 1 si weekly allowance 5s ; 2d. do 3s. f>d. 2d. 1787, 250, 1 14, for 12 weeks, 4s., for rest of year, lia. Si 1806, 1074, 28fl, 6s.. 3s. 4tli. 1806, 176, 111, 4s, 3s. Of the 7^ members of these societies, only 323 belong to this parish. Inns and Alehouses. — There are five inns in the parish, and ten grocers who are licensed to sell spirits. The effect of such a number of public houses is in every respect pernicious.* Banks, — A branch of the Commercial Bank was established here in 1833, and is understood to be flourishing. A handsome building is at present in course of erection for its accommodation. A savings bank was instituted in July 1832. The depositors con- sist chiefly of farm-servants. Their number at this date (August 1835) is 200, and the amount of deposits L. 116a Fairs, — There are three fairs held in Biggar, the Candlemas fair, the Midsummer fair, and the old Biggar fair, held on the last Thursday of October, old style. The first is a hiring market, and very well attended. At the second, a little business is done in wool. The third is for horses and black cattle. B^ Infirm, can work none, 2 sons & 4 daughters. 50 0120 3120 92. Do. do. Idaughter&lson, 090 112 700 02. In bad health, works stockings a little, 040 1160 440 ^ A widow with 3 young children, . 000 110 110 55. Occasionally deranged, . 050 170 470 55. Do. works a little, 050 110 410 ^5. Infirni,worksaHttle,l son & 5 daughters, 036 000 220 68. Do. . . . 040 I 16 440 57. Do. sews a little, - - 026 000 llOO o2. Rather infirm, - - 000 200 200 eO. A lunatic, - - - 17 000 10 40 55. Infirm, lives with a daughter, 1 son, 026 000 1100 ^ Do. works a little, - 030 110 2170 60. Do. sells brooms, 1 daughter, - 030 15 2110 Families. A brother and sister, the brother of weak intellect, the sister an idiot, - 10 200 800 An orphan boy and girl under 14, - 084 000.500 L. 145 11 It would be quite enough for the public convenience here, and in most places of the same site, if the license were granted only to persons who keep stables and other vcommodations for travellers. At any rate, the grocers should be restricted from allowing the i^irits they sell to be consumed on their premises. As it is at present, ^rfdiops are often infested with loiterers in aU stages of drunkenness, — an exhibition of the worst influence on young persons, and others who may have occasion to go there. Another bad practice is the licensing of toll-keepers. Often shifting about, |hey are lesa interested in maintaining a good character than the more stationary in- habitants ; and in order to make the most of their short leases, and to eke out a high 'rat, perhaps they are often tempted to encourage excess. In many places, however, ^ percent of additional rent is given for a toll-bar that is licensed, and while this is . f^* ^^ ^"^ ^ very dlfiicult to get the practice abolished. Candidates for ale and ^tnt licenses are generally required to produce a certificate of character from the mi- nister of the parish in which they reside, but in one instance in this dbtrict, where the ^^nisterial certificate was withheld from a toll-keeper on account of bad character, no ^xplanation of the circumstance was ever required from the minister, and yet the toll- ■*eper found no difllculty in getting his license. 378 LANARKSHIRE. Fueh — Almost the only fuel used is coal from Ponfeigh, in the parish of Douglas, which is about 14 miles distant from Biggar, and sometimes, though more rarely, from Wilsonton, in the parish of Carnwath. A cart-load of 15 cwt. is delivered in Biggar for 9s., that is ds. 3d. for the coals at the mouth of the pit, lOd. for tolls, and the remainder for driving. Peats, or rather turfs, called rouffh'headsj are dug from a moss belonging to the town, and used as fuel to the extent of about 400 carts yearly, but they are not reckoned profitable. Miscellaneous Observations. Few parishes have been more improved than this since the date of the last Statistical Account ; but there are two periods in the history of its improvement which ought particularly to be noted. In 1806 the late Mr Stainton bought Biggarshields, containing 1132 Scots acres, and then all let as a sheep-walk for L. 150. This lease expired in 1817, and during the years 1817, 1818, 1819, and 1820, he reclaimed 600 aores, drained extensively, erect- ed 18 miles of stone dikes, planted 15 miles of thorn hedges, and forest trees to the extent of 265 acres. The rental of the pro- perty is now above L. 600, but two of the farm^ consisting wholly of land not formerly reclaimed, are let on improving leases for trifling rents, and in the course of ten years, when these leases shall have expired, the whole of the estate, with the exception of 100 acres too steep for cultivation, will be under the plough, and the rental not less probably than L. 900. In 1830 Mr Gmy bought Garwood, containing 947 Scots acres, since which time he has reclaimed 400, formed fifty inclosures by stone dikes, thorn hedges, and turf fences, and planted in stripes and clumps 210 acres. He has, besides this, built an excellent mansion-house, and is engaged in improvements which will soon treble the rental of his property. The greatest improvement which can now be effected in this parish is the deepening of Biggar water. Were it deepened two feet for the space of four miles, that is, from Broughton Bridge to Boghall, 500 acres of land on its banks, but not all in this parish, would be improved L. 1 per acre. And as the operation would not, in the opinion of com|)etent judges, cost more than L. 500, the expense would be repaid in the course of one year. Tliere are ten proprietors concerned, and it can only be ascribed to the difficulty of acting in concert that such an improvement is delayed for a day. The advantage which would result to the climate from the draining of such a tract of marshy ground would be very great Augtist 1835. 9 PARISH OF RUTHERGLEN.* PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. PETER BROWN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. The royal burgh and parish of Rutherglen is situated in the lOWirmtd of the county of Lanark. It stands on the south bank ofibemer Clyde, latitude 55° 51' S^ north, and longitude 4° 17' 84' west. Name and Boundaries^ S^c. — The name of Rutherglen, or by con- traction Ruglen, is said to be derived from King Reuiher or £eu- t/imiff, the fifth in the genealogy of the Kings of Scotland from Fergus L This King, according to the Scottish historians, was the son of Domadilla, whose memory is still preserved in the name of Dun-Domadilla, a venerable ruin in Strathmore. From Reuther or Reuda, as Bede calls him, the Scots were for a loDg time called Ddlreudini, He began to reign about the year 213 B.C. Having experienced the various changes of a war, by which his army was greatly exhausted, he retired to the mountainous county of Afgyle, where he remained in peace for several years. Finding at leDgth that his forces, now greatly increased, were inflamed with the love of war, he left his retirement, and by many successful attacks upon the Britoiis, regained the ancient boundaries of his kingdom. It appears from Wright's Inquiry into the Rise and Progress of Parlia- ments, that Rutherglen was erected into a royal burgh in 1 126 by King David, and from the numerous subsequent royal charters narrat- ed ia lire's History, it is evident that Rutherglen was originally a placeof great note; indeed, it seems probable, that, fora considerable time after its erection into a royal burgh, it was superior to Glasgow as a place of trade, the latter being chiefly occupied by churchmen.f Its consequence, however, as a place of trade, has long been on the * This article has been drawn up by James Cleland, LL.D. President of the Glas- |ov ud Clydesdale Sutistical Society, Fellow of the Statistical Society of London, *«fflberof the Society of CItiI Engineers, London, Corresponding Member of the **«y of Antiquaries of Scotland, &c. &c. . t Itvould appear that the bishops burgh of Glasgow had been comprehended with- >nthe origiiua boundaries of the royal burgh of Rutherglen, and that in the year UMARK. B b 374 LANARKSHIRE. decline. In 1692, as is elsewhere shown, it had neither foreign nor home trade, while Glasgow had a part of both. It is remarkable that two places so similarly situated, both on the banks of the Clyde, and within two miles of each other, should, in the process of time, become so very diflferent. In 1831, the population of Rutherglen was only 5503, while that of Glasgow had increased to 202,426. At that period the former had no shipping, — whereas, the latter bad ships trading to all parts of the world, besides sixty-seven steam ves- sels of nearly 10,000 tons burthen, carpenter's measurement In the early part of its history, the town of Rutherglen contained a castle which appears to have been a place of great strength, and ranked among the ancient fortresses of Scotland* In 1306, when Edward King of England was appointed arbiter in the dispute be- tween Bruce and Baliol, respecting the succession to the throne of Scotland, the castle of Rutherglen fell into his hands. Bruce, sen- sible of the great importance of this fortress, besieged it, and this coming to the knowledge of Edward, he sent his nephew, the young Earl of Glocester, to raise the siege. After various con- flicts, this castle seems to have been taken from the English in the year 1313 by Bruce. The castle, which stood near the east end of the back row, was kept in good repair till a short time after the battle of Langside, when it was burned by order of the Regent, out of revenge on the noble house of Hamilton, in whose custody it then was. The prin- cipal towers, however, were soon repaired, and, being enlarged by some modern improvements, became the seat of the Hamiltons of Elistoun, lairds of Shawfield, &c At length, on the decline of that family, it was more than a century ago left to fall into ruins, and by frequent dilapidations was levelled to the ground. The walls of this ancient tower were very thick. Each corner rested upon a foundation stone 5 feet in length, and 4 feet in breadth and thickness. These comer stones being very massy, were allowed to remain till about seventy years ago, when they were quarried out, as being cumbersome to a kitchen garden, into which the site of the fortress of Rutherglen is now converted. Some carved stones be- longing to the castle are built in the adjoining dikes. About 150 yards to the south of the main street, there is a kind of lane known by the name of Dins-Dikes. A circumstance which be- 1226i Alexander II. granted a charter to Walter Bishop of Glas^^ow, relieTiDg bis town from certain servitudes formerly due to Rutherglen. — Municipal CorporstioD Report, 1885, Part II. p. 871. RUTHERQLEN. 375 fell the unfortunate Queen Mary, immediately after her forces were ranted at the battle of Langside, has ever since continued to cha- ra^^terize this place with an indelible mark of opprobrium. Her Ma- jesty during the battle stood on a rising ground about a mile and a*lialf from Rutherglen. She no sooner saw her army defeated than ske took her precipitate flight to the south. Dins-Dikes unfortu- nately lay in her way. Two rustics who were at that instant cutting grass hard by, seeing her Majesty fleeing in haste, rudely attempt- ed to intercept and threatened to cut her in pieces with their scythes if she presumed to proceed a step farther. Neither beauty nor even royalty itself can at all times secure the unfortunate when they ha^e to do with the unfeeling or the revengeful. Relief, however, was at hand^ and her Majesty proceeded in her flight The parish of Rutherglen, of which the burgh forms a part, ex^tends on the south bank of the river Clyde, about 3 miles in length, and 1 mile 2 furlongs in breadth. Clyde is the bound- ary on the north ; the parish of Govan on the west ; Cathcart on the south-west ; Carmunnock on the south ; and Cambuslang on the east. The whole is arable, and is mostly enclosed, chiefly with thorn hedges. It lies in a pleasant situation, forming the lower patrt of the declivity of Cathkin hills, and is beautifully diversified ^th a regular succession of hills and narrow dales, excepting the parts next the river, where it forms into some very fertile plains. There is nothing on record by which we can precisely ascertain what was anciently the extent of Rutherglen, or the number of houses it contained. When digging at the east end of the town, the foundations of buildings are sometimes met with in places which *ere never known to have been occupied by houses. One princi- pal street, in a direction nearly east and west, and a parallel lane ^led the Back Row, constitute the greatest part of the town. The main street, which is very straight and well paved, is nearly half a-mile in length, and is in general 112 feet broad. From both «des of it go off a few lanes, as the Farm Lone, School Wynd, &c. The plains next the river comprehend the estates of Shawfield, ^*nne, Hamilton Farme, and Rosebank. Shawfield extends about * iJiile in length from the town of Rutherglen to Polmadie, having the Clyde for its boundary on the north. Sir Claud Hamilton was "^rtof Shawfield in 1615. This property was adjudged to Mr ''^hn Ellis, and other creditors of the family, about the year 1657, ^i in 1695 it was conveyed by the said John Ellis to Sir Alexan- ^r Anstruther of Newwark, who sold it in 1707 to Mr Daniel 376 LANARKSHIRE. Campbell, collector of his Majesty's customs at Port- Glasgow, whose descendant, Mr Walter Campbell of Shawfield, sold it in 1788 to Mr Robert Houston Rae of Little Govan. It does not appear that any of the proprietors took the title of Shawfield, but the Hamiltons, Crawfords, and Campbells. Next to the town on the east, and along the side of the river, is the estate of Farme. It is said to have been once the private property of some of the Stuarts, Kings of Scotland. It after- wards belonged to the family of Crawford, who naming it from themselves called it Crawford Farme. It soon afterwards came into the possession of Sir Walter Stewart of Minto, who dwelt in the castle about the year 1645. He is reported to have been a gentleman of extraordinary prudence and humanity, and during the commotions of the times, to have obtained many favours for Ru- therglen. The Flemings had it for some time in their possession, and at length it came into the Hamilton family. It is now called Farme, and was purchased by Mr Farie, father of Mr James Farie, the present proprietor, from the Duke of Hamilton. On the estate, and nearly in the middle of the beautiful lawn, the ancient castle, now the family seat of Mr Farie, is situated. The period in which it was built is unknown, but the thick walls, the narrow and irregu- larly placed windows, the strong battlements, &c. are evidences of its antiquity, and that it was erected as a place of strength. Being kept in excellent repair, it is wholly habitable, and may continue for ages to come, a beautiful pattern of the manner in which the habitations of the powerful barons of Scotland were an- ciently constructed. Mr Farie has built a suitable addition to the castle ; and, to prevent his lands from being injured by inundations, has raised a bank at the river aloqg his property. In May 1792, one of the principal rooms in the old castle was repaired. The workmen having pulled down an old stucco ceiling, discovered another of timber under it. On the beams, which had been long covered up, several lines were written in old English characters, in the style of precepts, one of which was, " Fair speech in presence with good report in absence^ and manners even to feU lowship obtains great reverence; written in the year 1325. Farther up the Clyde is Hamilton Farme, the property of Miss Sommerville. Near to Hamilton Farme is Morrieston, the pro- perty of Mr Joseph Bain ; and Rosebank, the property of the heirs of the late Mr David Dale. In the higher parts of the parish are some considerable estates, RUTHERGLEN. 377 as Gallowflat, the property of Mr John Robertson Reid ; Scotstown of Mr John Gray; Stonelawof Mr Charles Cunningham; Bank- iead of Mr Walter White, the present Provost of Rutherglen. Elegant and commodious mansion-houses are built on these estates. The town's lands consist of the Green, a plain of 32 acres and SI fidls, lying between the town and the river. The soil is rich uid deep, owing to the accumulation of mud and decayed vege- tables carried down the Clyde. It appears from the Municipal Corporation Report that the other property of the burgh consists of tie Court hall, prison rooms, gaoler's house, &c., a schoolhouse, achoolmaster^s house, town-hall, and two other properties, the ^ole supposed to be in value about L. 10,000. Climate. — As there are no known data in Rutherglen from which to ascertain the heat and quantity of rain, the following is taken from Cleland's Statistical Tables for Glasgow. The state of the thermometer in 1834 was ascertained at the Cranston Hill Water-works, (separated from the parish of Ruther- glen only by the Clyde) by Mr M*Kain, the scientific manager of the works, who suspended one of Crichton's Fahrenheit thermo- 'J'ieters in an open well about twenty feet diameter, cradled with ^ne, in a position apart from the rays of the sun, and enjoined the day and night engineers, who are in constant attendance, to °^ the hourly state of the thermometer in a book, and from that '^ook Mr M^Kain constructed a tabic, exhibiting the temperature kourly, daily, weekly, monthly, and yearly. The result was, an ^^erage temperature during two years, from 1st January 1833, to Ist January 1835, 4a43. The greatest heat of the thermometer on 24th January 1834 ^44.37, and the least heat on the 29th, 33.12. Average heat *>.5a On the 18th February, 46.08; on the 13th, 32.25 ; ave- ^40.08. On 6th December, 52.16; on the 19th, 26.37 ; ^'erage, 39.6a On 2d June, 63.45 ; on 13th, 52.33 ; average, W.91. On 4th July, 67.33; on 19th, 56.87; average, 62.04. 9*^ 3d August, 67.83 ; on 28th, 49.75 ; average, 59.37. These ^ months exhibit the extremes in the year. The extremes were applicable only to a few hours in the respective months. The "*^ heat of Glasgow was formerly determined by Professor Thomas Thomson to be 47.75, while that of Edinburgh, as de- *®rmined by Professor Playfair, was 47.72. But it is presumed ^ these eminent philosophers had not the advantage of hour- V inspection. 378 LANARKSHIRE. Hydrography. — A considerable part of the parish is bounded on the north by the river Clyde. The Bowtree dam, which sup- plies the mill with water, is the only pool in the parish. Mineralogy. — There are five coal-mines in the parish, viz. one worked by Mr Fane at Farme; two by Mr Gray at Eastfield; one by Mr Cunningham at Stonelaw ; and one by Mr Colin Dunlopat Ha- milton Farme. Some of these mines produce a small quantity of ironstone. It appears from the Government abstract for 1831, page 999, that 305 persons were then employed in the coal mines, and 27 in the quarries of Rutherglen. Prior to 1775, the colliers of Rutherglen, and other places in Scotland, were by the common law in a state of slavery. They, and their wives and children, if they had assisted at coal -works, became the property of the coal- masters, and were transferred with the coal-work, in the same man- ner as the slaves on a West India estate. In the Rev. Dr Maclae's report of the parish of Rothsay for the Statistical Account in 1791, it is said that a cart of coals con- taining 12 cwt. cost 3s. 6d. in Glasgow, and an equal sum to take them to Rothsay in the Island of Bute. For seven years prior to 1836, coals in quantities were delivered in Glasgow at the steam- boat quay from Rutherglen at from 6s. 9d. to 7s. 9d. per ton. Th^ supply for families was Is. more per ton. II. — Civil and Ecclesiastical History. The following facts, collected from the records of the burgh, the Presbytery of Glasgow, the Synod of Glasgow and Ayr, Ure's History of Rutherglen, and other authentic documents, con- tain a pretty accurate account of the state of society in Ruther- glen at the periods referred to. The distinguishing characteristics of the people of this parish, (like others in the neighbourhood,) about the time of the Re- formation, and for nearly a century after it, were ignorance and a fierce sanguinary spirit. Their belief in apparitions, witches, se- cond-sight, their profanation of the Sabbath by working, rioting at fairs, and the numerous murders and cases of incest of the worst description, exhibit the depravity of the age. The administration of justice, and the execution of the criminal law must have been in a most deplorable state, when such crimes were left to the cen- sure of the church. A long letter from King James VI. is engrossed in the Synod records. It is dated at Ruthen (Ruglen) 19th August 1586, and directed to Mr Andrew Hay, Commissioner for the west country. RUTHERGLEN. 379 It recommends the suppression of impiety and vice, and authorizes discipline — ^promises the support of the civil power — is wiUing to put the benefices on a proper footing — to receive proposals from the church — but reserves consideration of any alteration that may be made. Among the evils to be removed by the kirk are witch- craft, incest, murders, idle beggars, persons passing on pilgrimages to chapels or wells, inquiring the names of certain crofts or pieces of ground reported to be superstitiously consigned to the devil, under the name of the Gudeman or Hyndeknyt. On 24th February 1590, the presbytery of Glasgow directed the doctor of the school of Rutherglen to desist from reading prayers, and they complained that those who provided wine for the sacrament of the Lord's supper mixed it with water. The pres- bytery exhorted the people not to drink the wine greedily but to '^ive it with all sobriety, and to have the eyes of their souls bfted up to heaven, and not to drink the wine barbarously. On 8th May 1593, the presbytery ordered their clerk to write * fetter to my Lord Paisley to repair the choir of Ruglen kirk; and *t the same time they prohibited the playing of pipes on Sundays, *fOin sun rising to its going down, on pain of excommunication, and forbade all pastimes on Sundays. This order to be read in all the kirks, but especially in the kirk of Ruglen. On 20th May 1595, the presbytery sent three letters, viz. to the Laird of Farme, the Laird of Lekprivick, and the bailies of «^utherglen, to stay the profane plays introduced in Ruglen on the lord's day, as they fear the eternal God^ and will be answerable ^his kirk. They also complained of the practice of drawing sal- mon, and of the colliers in Ruglen settling their accounts on Sunday. On 20th March 1604, Sir Claud Hamilton of Shawfield « in- *^^pted the minister of Ruglen in time of sermon, after a bar- b^ous and unchristian manner ; and Andrew Pinkerton boasted that he had put away four ministers from Ruglen, and he hoped ^ put away Mr Hamilton also. He drew a whinger and held it ^ the minister's breast, and David Spens said he would stick twa ''listers, and would not give a fig for excommunication." On 29th July 1607, the presbytery ordered the minister of ^len to intimate from the pulpit on Sunday next, that the next "cdnesday is to be solemnly kept by every parishioner resorting ^ the kirk, for praising of God's blessed name, for his Majesty's Preservation and deliverance from that treasonable attempt and ^nspiracy against his Majesty's life at Perth, (the Gowrie con- 380 LANARKSHIRE. spiracy.) The tumults at Ruglen at this period were so great that it was thought meet that the minister should urge his transporta- tion. James Riddell sat at the communion table, though his mi- nister had ordered him to rise, and, in contempt of the minister and session, he cut the grass on the kirk-yard on the Sabbath day. At this period Sir William Hamilton, Elistoun, came from France, to reside in Ruglen, and being suspected of favouring papists, gave great uneasiness to the presbytery. During the troubles in the reign of Charles I. the presbytery of Glasgow, on 17th May 1648, declared that they were not sa- tisfied with the lawfulness, necessity, and manner of prosecuting the war, and desired that the levy might be stopped, and that re- ligion, loyalty, and the King, might be kept in their proper place. Mr Baillie, Professor of Divinity in Glasgow, and Mr Gillespie, minister of the Outer Kirk there, were appointed to draw up a re- monstrance to Parliament. The commissioners transmitted their declarature, in opposition to the Parliament's wish, and in defi- ance of the privy-council, and ordered the declarature to be read in all the kirks, as the ministers will be answerable to God and the kirk. Mr Robert Young, minister of Ruglen, was opposed to the reading of it, and the town-clerk of that burgh, who was a mem- ber of Parliament, forbade the magistrates to hear it The laird of Minto, the magistrates, and the town-clerk, went out of the church, and desired the people to dismiss. The communion was to have been celebrated on the Sunday following, but the presbytery prohibited it till the scandal was tried and censured. The session of Ruglen, in opposition to the minister, sent a letter to the com- mittee of war at Hamilton, informing them that they were not sa- tisfied with the lawfulness of the war, and desired that it might be put an end to. The birth-day and restoration of Charles II. was celebrated at Ruglen, with bonfires and other marks of rejoicing, on 29th May 1679. On that occasion a body of men, about eighty in number, who were incensed at government on account of the persecutions against the covenanters, to which it gave its sanction, assembled at the cross of Ruglen, with a fixed resolution to execute a plan of retaliation they had previously concerted. Having chosen a leader, they sung psalms, and prayed. The acts of Parliament against conventicles were then committed to the flames of the bonfire. This was the first public appearance of the Bothwell Bridge as- RUTHERGLEN. 381 iociatioDy as it was called by the covenanters, or rebellion, as it was termed by the court party.* Guthrie gives the following account of this afiFair in his history of Scotland : " In the year 1679, immediately after the death of Sharpe Bishop of St Andrew's, the cruelty of Lord Lauderdale ^d his party arose to such a height against the Presbyterians, that many of them resolved to assert their liberty by taking up arms. About eighty of them assembled at Ruglen, a young preacher of the name of Hamilton was declared their head, and on the 29th ^aj, they drew up a declaration against all the acts of Parliament '^•a.ting to religion, and publickly committed them to the flames of the bonfire that had been lighted up in commemoration of the day. After a successful engagement with Captain Graham of Qaverhouse, they took possession of the town of Hamilton, and *ooi| made themselves masters of Glasgow, but were afterwards to- ^ly defeated at Bothwell Bridge, by the Duke of Monmouth." On 4th June 1690, the presbytery informed the people of Ru- S^^t^ that, as this was the first meeting after the re-establishment ®^ the Presbyterian form of government, the only standing go- ^®^^ment of this church, Mr Joseph Drew was directed to go to Stirling, and preach to the people who had left the west country, Oji account of the troubles of the kingdom, and considering the an- ^^^Dt and laudable custom of the ministers meeting together at din- ^^i* on the ordinary days of the presbytery, agree to dine in Alex- ^der Cochrane's house in Glasgow. Mr Dixon the minister of Ru- glen was prohibited from mentioning various interpretations of texts, in opposition to one another, and is instructed to give the ^terpretation which is agreeable to the analogy of faith and ttie analogy of the text; and if any error is supposed to be taught ^^ shall not be introduced before the congregation, but represent- ^ to the presbytery, and their direction followed. The curates ^«re examined on oath as to their knowledge of where the synod and presbytery records could be found. Some course was to be The people of Glasgow seem to have been actuated by a similar spirit to that *^r neighbours in Rutherglen. " The comraission of the General Assembly of p Church of Scotland, deprecating the union with England, appointed a fast to be •J5 ^^ Thursday, the 7th of November 1706, to implore divine assistance from ^ Spending calamity ; on which occasion the Rev. James Clark, minister of the ^'po Church, Glasgow, preached from these words in Ezra viii. 21. * Then I pro- ved a fast there, at the river of Ahava, that we might afflict ourselves before our "°<*» to seek of him a right way for us, and for our little ones, and for all our sub- *^' After the discourse was finished, the preacher said * Wherefore up and be ^™nt, for the city of our God.* The people instantly arose, and, along with their "•'Kyman, hurried to the cross, where they burned the proposed articles of union." 382 LANARKSHIRE. taken with the Episcopal men who preach on holidays, and ad- minister the sacrament of the supper privately, and by kneeling. The following account of the affairs of Kutherglen is taken from the general report of the Commissioners on Municipal CJor- porations, presented to both houses of Parliament in 1835, by com- mand of his Majesty. At a meeting of the general Coqverition of Royal Burghs, held at Edinburgh on 9th July 1691, it was enacted, that two commis- sioners should be sent to every burgh in Scotland, to ascertain their true state. Mr James Fletcher, Provost of Dundee, and Mr Alexander Walker, Bailie of Aberdeen, two of the Commissioners, opened their commission at Rutherglen on 7th May 1692, when Robert Bowman, Provost, John Scott, Bailie, and William Spens, town-clerk, gave in the following statement on oath : Istj That the common good of the burgh amount to 959 lib. 16, 3, Scots, and the debt to 7100 merks. 2^^ That the burgh has no mortifications (mortmains.) Qd, That they have neither foreign nor inland trade ; that they do not vend nor consume French wine, sack, or brandy, except some few pints of brandy they buy in Glasgow ; and that they con- sume about five bolls of malt weekly. 4ih^ They have no ships, barks, boats, or ferry-boats belonging to them. 5thy Their minister is paid out of the teinds ; their schoolmaster and all their public servants out of the common good. 6thy The most part of the houses are inhabited by the respec- tive heritors. The rent of the best and the worst of those houses will be between the rent of eight and four pound Scots, and that they have no stranger inhabitants. 7thj They have four yearly faii:^, three of one day's continuance, and the fourth of four or five days' continuance, and that they have no weekly market* • The following note, taken from the same document, relates to Glasgow. On Ist May 1692, Provost James Peddie, Bailies Matthew Cummin and Simon Tennent, and Mr George Anderson, town-clerk, gave in the following statement on oath : ]»^ The common good of the burgh amounts to 16,9U21ibs. Scots, and the debt to 178,800 libs. Scots, principal, and annual rents. 2d, That their foreign trade amounts to 205,000 libs Scots ; that they vend and re- tail about twenty tuns of French wine, twenty butts of sack, and about ten or twelve butts of brandy yearly; and that they vend and consume about 1000 bolls of malt monthly. 3d, That they have fifteen ships, whereof eight are hi the harbour and seven abroad, and eight lighters ; viz, 1 ship, 160 tons ; 2, 150 ; 1, 100 ; 4,80 ; 1, 70 ; 2. 60; 2, 36 and 2, 30. At this period the shipping harbour was at Port- Glasgow. RUTHERGLEN. 383 Antiquities, — At Gallowflat there are the remains of a tumulus of earth. This mound was anciently surrounded with a ditch, the traces of which were visible so late as the year 1773. At that pe- riod the proprietor, Mr Patrick Robertson, formed the ditch into a fish pond. During the operation a paved passage, six feet broad, was discovered leading up to the top of the mound. Near to this passage, two brass or copper vessels were found shaped like por- ringers, with broad handles about nine inches long, on which the word Congallus was cut. . In a tumulus at Hamilton Farm, a stone coffin was found in 1768; since that period, it has been levelled with the ground. The tumulus at Drumlaw has long since been removed. The cross erected on the top of Cross-hill was made of a hard stone, ten feet high and three and a-half broad, ornamented with ^ous figures. The most remarkable was that of our Saviour riding upon an ass. This religious monument fell a sacrifice to the fury of a mob during the civil wars in Charles I.*s time. In Ure's History, from which this account of antiquities is taken, there are several others, though of less importance. Ancient Customs. — The inhabitants of Rutherglen seem to have ■^n very tenacious of ancient customs, some of which are still ■tept up. Peramhulating the Marches. — On a particular day, the magi- strates, accompanied by a great proportion of the inhabitants, per- ^bulated the burgh marches, with drums beating and colours %ing. When the procession was over, a mock engagement with '^foom besoms took place, which ended in a jollnfication. This custom was given up in 1830. &mr Cakes. — Rutherglen has long been famous for sour cakes. About eight or ten days before St Luke's fair, in October, a cer- ^n quantity of oat meal is made into dough with warm water, ^d laid up in a vessel to ferment. Being brought to a proper degree of fermentation and consistency, it is rolled up into balls, P^oportionably to the intended largeness of the cakes. With the "Ough is commonly mixed a small quantity of sugar, and a little ^^^seed or cinnamon. The baking is executed by women only, ^A» The decay of trade is such that a great number and many of the best of the r^'^'es are waste, yea, that there are near 500 houses standing waste, and that those j^«bited are fallen nearly one third of the rent, and that the best and worst wiU be ^»ixt loo pounds, (whereof they have not eight inhabited J>y burghers) and 4 lib. ^ts yearly, eicept some large taverns. 384 LANAIIKSHIRE. and they seldom begin their work till after sunset, and a night or two before the fair. A large space of the house chosen for the purpose is marked out by a line drawn upon it. The area within is considered as consecrated ground, and is not by any of the by- standers to be touched with impunity. A transgression incurs a small fine, which is always laid out on drink for the use of the company. This hallowed spot is occupied by six or eight women, all of whom, except the toaster, seat themselves on the ground in a circular form, having their feet turned towards the fire. Each of them is provided with a bake-board, about two feet square, which they hold on their knees. The woman who toasts the cakes, which is done on a girdle suspended over the fire, is called the Queen or Bride, and the rest her maidens. These are distinguish- ed from one another, by names given them for the occasion. She who sits next the fire towards the east is called the Todler ; her companion on the left hand is called the Hodler^ and the rest have arbitrary names given them by the Bride, as Mrs Baker, best and worst maids, &c. The operation is begun by the Todlevy who takes a ball of the dough, forms it into a small cake, and then casts it on the bake-board of the Hodler, who beats it out a little thinner. This being done, she in her turn throws it on the board of her neighbour, and thus it goes round from east to west, in the direction of the course of the sun, until it comes to the toaster, by which time it is as thin and smooth as a sheet of paper. The first cake that is cast on the girdle is usually named as a gift to some well-known cuckold, from a superstitious opinion that there- by the rest will be preserved from mischance. Sometimes the cake is so thin as to be carried by the current of the air up into the chimney. As the baking is wholly performed by the hand a great deal of noise is the consequence. The beats, however, are not ir- regular, nor destitute of an agreeable harmony, especially when they are accompanied with vocal music, which is frequently the case. Great dexterity is necessary not only to beat out the cakes with no other instniment than the hand, so that no part of them shall be thicker than another, but especially to cast them from one board to another, without ruflBing or breaking them. The toast- ing requires considerable skill, for which reason the most experi- enced person in the company is chosen for that part of the work. One cake is sent round in quick succession to another, so that RUTHERGLEN. 385 none of the company is suffered to be idle. The whole is a scene of activity, mirth, and diversion, and might afford an excellent sub- ject for a picture. There is no account of the origin of this cus- tom. The bread thus baked was doubtless never intended for common use. It is not easy to conceive why mankind, especially in a rude age, would strictly observe so many ceremonies, and be at so great pains in making a cake, which, when folded together, makes but a scanty mouthful. Besides it is always given away in pre- ^nts to strangers, who frequent the fair. The custom seems to have been originally derived from Paganism, and to contain not a fei^ of the sacred rites peculiar to that impure religion, as the le- vened dough, and the mixing it with sugar and spices, the conse- nted ground, &c &c This custom is given up, except in ^ne house of Bailie Hugh Fulton, vintner, where the entire ce- '^naonies are gone through. Sour Cream, — Rutherglen is famous for making sour cream of 30 excellent quality. It is made in the following manner : A cer- ^n quantity of sweet milk is put into a wooden vessel or vat, which ^ placed in a proper degree of heat, and covered with a Hnen ^^th. In due time, the serous or watery part of the milk begins 'o Separate from the rest, and is called whi^. When the separa- tion is complete, which, according to circumstances, requires more ^^ less time, the whig is drawn off from near the bottom of the vessel. The substance that remains is then beat with a large spoon or ladle, till the particles of which it is composed are pro- perty mixed. A small quantity of sweet milk is sometimes added to correct the acidity if it is in excess. The cream thus prepar- ^ is agreeable to the taste, and nourishing to the constitution. III. — Population. There seems to have been no enumeration of the inhabitants of the parish of Rutherglen that can be relied on prior to 1755, ^nen it was taken for Dr Webster, then drawing up his report for the widows' fund. In that year, the population amounted to 988. 1^ 1791, according to Chalmers' Caledonia, it amounted to 1860. lo 1793, Ure states, that, " the town of Rutherglen consisted of *^S dwelling-houses, inhabited by 400 families, containing 1631 P^J^ns, of whom 270 children under six years of age, males, ^Ij females, 830." This does not include the landward part y the parish. If the landward contained 500 persons, which it *s^ery probable it did, the population in 1793 would have been 2131. 386 LANARKSHIRE. From the GovernmeDt Censuses. Vear, 1801, 1811, 1821, 1831, Houtet. t 847 728 617 I 661 I E 726 928 1238 3 9 2 1 I 21 19 4 Occupationt, III 6 *. w 270 48 163 102 S a F ss •< 4 640 427 736 1136 1 1527 251 29 Pef9(ms, I 1200 1660 2295 2733 1 2437 3529 4640 5503 As there is no enumeration of births, majriages, and deaths, in this parish, by which the probability of human life can be ascer- tained with any degree of accuracy, it seems proper to explain the manner in which bills of mortality have been drawn up in the ad- joining parishes of Glasgow, where great pains have been bestow- ed to render them accurate. For want of understanding the prin- ciples upon which the proper construction of such tables depend, most of the writers on this subject, many of them men of great merit and industry, have taken much pains to little purpose, and after excessive labour, have arrived at false conclusions. Hardly any of them appear to have been aware of the necessity of ob- taining the number of the living as well as of the annual deaths in each interval of age, or that that would greatly enhance the value of bills of mortality, by extending their useful applications. According to Cleland's folio Statistical Tables for Glasgow, p. 260, it appears that, in the year 1821, the population was 147,043; deaths, 3686 ; rate of mortality 1 in 39/^®^ persons. In 1831, the population was 202,426; deaths, 5185; rate of mortality, 1 in 39 ^^^ persons. From an official return for the kingdom of the Netherlands, where the code Napoleon is strictly enforced, the population was found to be 6,166,854; deaths, 158,800; rate of mortality, 1 in 38tVo persons. From the Government parish register abstract. Vol. iiL p. 496, ordered by the House of Commons to be printed on 2d April 1833, it appears that, on the average of the metropolis from 1811 to 1821, the rate of mortality was 1 in 39.6 persons. From the same official document it appears, that, on a similar average, from 1821 to 1831, the rate of mortality was 1 in 39.8 persons. IV. — Industry. It does not appear that Rutherglen has ever been very conspi* 3 RUTHERGLEN. 387 cuous for the extent of its trade. At an early period, there was a considerable traffic in salmon for the French market ; returns were made in brandy. The quay at the south-west corner of the public green seems to have been built for shipping coals. In 1813, a judicial examination of very old persons took place with refe- rence to the upper navigation, from which it appeared, that about the year 1745, craft went up the Clyde as far as West-thorn, and even so late as 1786, small craft went up to Rutherglen, and it is pretty evident, that but for the erection of a wear at the Glasgow bridge, the trade might not only have continued, but increased. A few years ago, the Messrs Wilson of Thornlie began to bring coals down the river, from their pits at Dalmamock, in punts propelled by a steam tug, to their quay a little above Hutchison's bridge^ but with this exception there is no craft plying above Glas- gow bridge. About ten years ago, a small steamer, the Marion, during a flood in the river, made an experimental trip through the arches of the bridges, and moored off the quay at Rutherglen. Fifty years ago, there were no manufactories in the parish. About 1790, two printfields were made, one in the burgh of Ru- therglen by Mr Gumming, and the other in Shawfield by Mr Dal- glish. These works, which then employed about 200 persons, have been enlarged, and now belong to Messrs Reid and White- ^ttsLDy and Stewart and M^Aulay. About 1796, Mr Peter Ferguson made a bleachfield at Shaw- field Bank. After occupying it for some time he was succeeded by A^essrs Gowdie, who introduced Turkey-red dyeing on the pre- *xiises. It was subsequently converted into a chemical work by ^4essrs Downie and White, and is now the property of, and occu- )>ied by Messrs John and James White, manufacturing chemists. About 1800, Mr M'Taggart built a small cotton-mill in the parish, which, after passing through several hands, has been en- larged, and is now the property of Mr M'Naughton ; and in 1833, Mr Mathieson fitted up an extensive Turkey- red dye- work, on the lands of Farme. These are the only nr*anufactories in the parish, but there are nearly^ 500 hand-loom muslin weavers in it, who all work for Glasgow manufacturers. Agriculture. — The agriculture of the parish has been greatly improved of late years. Inclosing, draining, and limeing has now become general in the parish. Ure, in giving great credit to Ma- jor Spens of Stonelaw, for his improvements in 1790, mentions, that to improve the soil, besides limeing and dunging, he purchased 388 LANARKSHIRK. all the oyster-shells he could get in Glasgow, which he spread in the gin-tracks of his coal-works, where they were broken in pieces by the horses feet, and reduced to excellent manure.* The seed- time in the parish is usually about the end of March, and the har- vest about the middle of September. The farms are let from L. 2, 10s. to L. 5 per acre, according to quality; good land rents at a grain rent of 3^ bolls of wheat per acre. Price of Labour in Rutherglen, — In 1660, a ploughman received L. 10 Scots, with a pair of shoes and stockings for a half year's ser- vice ; a female servant ten merks Scots, a pair of shoes, an ell of linen, and an ell of plaiding ; masons and wrights a merk Scots without meat, or half a merk with meat and drink for a day's work. A common labourer half a merk without meat, and forty pennies with meat and drink. In 1836 a good ploughman gets from L.9 to L. 10 Sterling, with bed, board, and washing for six months ser- vice. Dairy-maids having a charge, L. 5, and ordinary female farm-servants, L. 3, 10s. to L. 4, 10s. with bed, board, and wash- ing, for six months service. Masons and wrights average 3s. per day ; labourers. Is. 6d. to Is. lOd. In 1660, workmen who re- fused to work for the prices fixed by the magistrates were impri- soned ; and no servant was. allowed to take up house and work for themselves without a warrant from the magistrates. In 1836, workmen of all descriptions combine to raise their wages, and fre- quently through the medium of political unions clog the wheels of industry, to the great injury of their families. V. — Parochial Economy. Royal Burghs. — Although in the lapse of ages, the privileges originally granted to royal burghs have now become questionable, we should not forget that we are much indebted to them for the reli- gious and civil liberty we now enjoy. They were at first erected by our monarchs with a view to rescue mankind from the op- pressive power of the barons. For this purpose certain portions of the King's lands were bestowed upon them. The circumstance of these lands being commonly adjoining to royal garrisons, is the rea- son why the greatest number of ancient burghs are situated in the * It appears from the following note, taken from the Rev. John Bower's accouot of the parish of old Monkland, in the former Statistical Account of Scotland, vol. vii. p. 389, that the steam engine was not then used in taking up coals from the pits. Mr Bower says ** In the spring of 1792, Mr Hamilton erected a machine for draw- ing up the coal at Barrachnie and Sandy-hills coal works entirely by steam. It is oo an improved plan and thejirst of the kitid in Scotland, It is found to be the cheap- est and most expeditious way of doing that business, for could colliers be placed in the pit to keep her constantly employed, she would turn out about 20O tons per day. The present output is 35,000 tons per year." 4 RUTHERGLEN. 389 immediate neighbourhood of places of strength. They were put in possession of certain rights and privileges, the management of which was committed to the inhabitants. They were consequent- ly viewed as so many free and almost independent communities existing in the midst of oppression and slavery. Justice was to be found in their courts, — the lives and properties of the inhabitants were secured from the rapacity of the haughty barons, — arts, com- merce, and industry prospered within their territories, — and from thetB the cheering rays of liberty were widely diffused. The inhabitants of Rutherglen have long been considered adepts in burgh politics. From the union with England till the passing of the Reform Bill, great exertions were made by many of the in- , habitants to become members of the town-council, that body hav- ing an equal share in electing a Member of Parliament as the im- portant city of Glasgow. At contested elections (and there were few otherwise) a considerable part of the community deserted their usual avocations. The sinews of industry were enervated, and in- stances were not awanting of families being ruined by habits of ^dissipation, acquired on such occasions. Liberty was turned into licentiousness, and the political franchise became, in the respect now alluded to, a curse instead of a blessing to its possessors. Ffom living several years in the immediate vicinity of the burgh, I am enabled to say that, notwithstanding this general character, I have seen some noble instances of patriotism among the working- classes who happened to be electors. Since the passing of the Reform Bill, for the attainment of which the inhabitants were most solicitous, the political influence of Rutherglen may be said to be annihilated. There is now good reason, however, to hope that industry, trade, and manufactures ^ rapidly increase in the burgh. incorporations. — There are four incorporated trades in the burgh, viz. hammermen, governed by a deacon, collector, and four ™^ters, freedom fine for a stranger, L. 1 ; weavers, governed by a deacon, collector, four masters and five directors, freedom fine for a stranger, 16s. 4d. ; masons and wrights, governed by a deacon, collector, and four masters, freedom fine for a stranger, *^*> lOs. 4d. ; tailers, governed by a deacon, collector, two mas- *^^ and an assay master, freedom fine for a stranger, L. 1, 5s. ^^gess Fines. — The fines on becoming a freeman are as fol- lows: a stranger, L. 1, 2s. 2§d., a burgess's eldest son, if his fa- ^^is in life, 8s. 4d. ; if his father is dead, 6|d. ; other sons of '^"'g^sses and sons-in-law, lis. IJd. LANARK. c c 390 LANARKSHIRE. Members of the Scottish Parliament. — The following is a list of the commissioners which the burgh of Kutherglen sent to the Scotch Parliament: 1579, 23d Oct. Robert Lindsay 1661, 1st Jan. David Spens 1587, Idth July, David Spens 1669, 19th Oct. James Ridddl 1612, 20th Sept. Andrew Pinkcrton 1670, 22d July, James Riddell 1617, 28th June, Robert Lindsay 1672, 12th June, James Riddel) James Riddell 167d» 12th Nov. David Spens 16.M, 25tb July, John Pinkerton 1699, 14th March, John Soott 1633, 20th June, John Scott 1703, 6th May, George Spens. Mr Spens served till the union with England. The commis- sioners had their expenses paid out of the town's revenues, at th& rate of L. 3 Scots per diem, during their attendance in parliament. At the union with England, Idth June 1707, the burghs of Glasgow, Rutherglen, Renfrew, and Dumbarton, sent one member to the British Parliament, and since the 2d of February 1801, (the Union with Ireland,) till dd December 1832, when the par-, liament was dissolved after passing the Reform Bill, one member to the Imperial Parliament. The following is a list of the Members of the British and Im- perial Parliaments for the above burghs: 1. Sir John Johnstone, Knight, - - elected on 13th June 1707* 2. Robert Rodger, Lord Provost of Glasgow, . . 8th July 1706. a Thomas Smith, Dean of Guild of Gla^^w, - 28th Nor. 1710. 4. Do. do. do. . . - 12th Nor. 1713. 5. Daniel Campbell of Shawfield, ... 6th Oct. 1715. 6. Do. do. .... 28th Nov. 1727. 7. Col. John Campbell of Croombank, . - Idth June 1734. 8. Neil Buchanan, Merchant in Glasgow, - - 25th June 1741. 9. Lieut. Col. John Campbell of Mawmore, - ISth Aug. 1747* 10. Do. do. ... 31st May 1754. ri. Lord Frederic Campbell, ... 19th May 1761. 12. Do. do. .... 10th May 1768. 13. Do. . do. . . . 29th Nov. 1774. 14. John Crawford of A uchinamcs, - - - 31st Oct. 1780. 15. Islay Campbell of Succoth, .... 18th May 1784. 16. John Crawford of A uchinames, . - . 26th Feb. 1790l 17. WilUam M*Dowall of Garthland, - - 12th July 1790. 18. do. do. - . - 27th Sept 1796. 19. Boyd Alexander of Southbar, . . 16th Nov. 1802. 20. Archibald Campbell of Blythswood, . - - 15th Dec. 1806. 21. do. do. ... 22d June 1807. 22. Alexander Houston of Clerkington, - - 30th June 1809. 23. Kirkman FinUiy of Castle Toward, Lord Provost of Glasgow,* dOth Oct. 1812. 24. Alexander Houston of Clerkington, - - 11th July 1818. 25. Archibald Campbell of Blythswood, . - 31st Mar. 1820. 26. Do. do. . - dd July 1896b 27. Do. do. . - 23d Aug. 1830. 28. Joseph Dixon, Advocate, - - - 23d May 1831. * Ninety years having elapsed since the burghs were represented by a Glanow merchant, Mr Finlay's election was attended by extraordinary marks ofapprobatioo. His fellow citizens, as a pledge of their esteem and regard, appreciating his oomnMr- cial enterprise, popular talents, and public spirit, drew him in an open carriage from the town.hall of Glasgow, where the election took place, to his bouse in Queen S tr e et , amid the acclamations of the multitude. His friends^ Mr James Oswald of SUiieUU IIUTHERGLKN. 391 £y the reform in ))arliament bill, the burghs of- Kilmarnock, Port*Giasgow, Dumbarton, Rutherglen, and Renfrew, send one member to the Reform Parliament. ConstitueDcy, 1415, viz. Kilmarnock, 687 ; Port- Glasgow, 238; I>Uinbarton, 204; Rutherglen, 196; Renfrew, 90. John Dunlop of Dimlop, represented these burghs in the first Reform Parliament, which met on 29th January 1833. John Bowring, LL. D. represents these burghs in the second Reform Parliament, which met on 19th February 1835. Cleorge Crawfurd, Town- Clerk, salary L. 30. Z^oor, — There is no assessment for the maintenance of the poor in the parish. The heritors make an annual subscription, and it is from this, the fees from proclamation of marriages, and tbe collections at the church doors, that the ordinary poor are main- t&iDed. In 1835, the poors' fund amounted to L.279, 19s. Id. and the number of enrolled poor, to 86.* The allowance to paupers and their families is from 2s. to 4s. per month ; a few of the more clamant receive 6s. per month. The interest of some small be- quests, and the donations of Messrs Finlay and Buchanan, amount- ing to L.23^ was given to poor householders not on the paupers' roll. As the mortcloths belong to the corporations, the fees aris- ing from them are given to decayed members. Church. — The old church with the burying ground, nearly in tlie middle of which it was situated, exhibited a beautiful example the Greirorian computation was established here, and accordingly took place «»^752. 398 LANARKSHIRE. 14lli Aprii 1607. On the death of his brother Charles Earl of Selkirk in 1739, that title and the barony of Crawfordjohn in La- narkshire devolved on him. The Earl of Ruglen was thenceforth styled Earl of Selkirk and Ruglen, and dying at Edinburgh, on dd December 1744^ in the eightieth year of his age, was buried at Crar mond. — Douglas's Peerage of Scotland, Vol. ii. p. 457. Rutherglen Bridge. — A stone bridge of five arches was thrown over the Clyde between the lands of Shawfield and Barrowfield in 1775. It was built by subscription, and the burgh and inhabi- tants of Rutherglen contributed about L. 1000 that it might be free of pontage. Timber Bridge. — A timber bridge was erected a few years ago a little farther up the river, and a new line of road opened from the collieries in Rutherglen to Glasgow, which considerably shortens the distance. There is a pontage on this bridge for carts, carri- ages, and foot-passengers. Masoris Lodges. — There were formerly two mason lodges in the parish, but now there is only the Rutherglen Royal Arch. June ]386. PARISH OF CADDER. PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Various derivations have been assigned to the name of this parish ; but the most probable is that which traces it to the ancient British word Calder, signifying *< a place beautifully em- bellished with wood, and copiously supplied with water." Cadder was probably one of the 365 parishes which St Patrick, (who was born in the adjoining parish,) erected about 490, and which Convallus II. (who was born about 558) endowed. The latter (says Archbishop Spotswood) appointed mansion places to the clergy, at the churches where they served, with a competent portion of land there adjoining, and declared the tenth of all corns, fruits, herbs, and flocks, &c. to belong properly to the church. Kentigern, called St Mungo, founded a bishoprick at Glasgow about 560 ; and the parson of Cadder, from his contiguity, was CADDRR. 399 iiiely to be one of those who would be selected to bear yp ike Buhi^stail, ExUntj jBotm^ortex.— *Cadder extends fully 14 miles in length, from the riyulet that divides the lands of Gartinqueen in Cadder from the Iseiids of Ramone in New Monkland, to the river Kelvin, which separates Cadder from New Kilpatrick, directly opposite to the fiplendid mansion of J. C. Colquhoun, Esq. of Killermont. It Averages fully 4 miles in breadth. Its figure is oblong. It is bounded on the north by Campsie and Kirkintilloch ; on the east by the New Monkland ; on the south by the Old Monkland and Bsu^ny ; and on the west by New Kilpatrick and Baldemock. It li^ on the northern extremity of the county of Lanark, adjoining to the counties of Dunbarton and Stirling. Jts nearest part reach- ^ ^thin three miles of the city of Glasgow, and no part of it is ^tant from that city above eight miles. It extends within the ®^hth part of a mile from the town of Kirkintilloch, and about four '^les from the town of Kilsyth, Cumbernauld, and Airdrie. 'topographical Appearances. — The surfaceof the parish presents ^ Series of undulations, from the Kelvin, which bounds it on the ^^3t and north, to the parishes of Barony and Old Monkland. Prom the impervious nature of the soil, the greater part of which ^ tlie stiffest till, and the quantity of rain exceeding the average t*^^t is alleged to fall ; from the sponginess of the numerous and ^^^*ge mosses, and the many lochs that stud its surface ; and from o^Vier circumstances — the atmosphere might be supposed to be ^^urated with moisture, and to be considerably deleterious ; yet we h^ve no local diseases, and in no part of Scotland will the inhabi- t^<^ts be found more healthful. In 1827 dysentery prevailed to a great extent, and many both y^ving and old were cut off. Some of the young, unable to take ^y sustenance, died in a few days, and some of the middle-aged ^*^gered for more than a year, till the intestines were completely ^^coriated. Hydrography. — From the tilly nature of our soil, we have few 8^H)d springs. To the Gateside well, close on the south side of ^^e ancient road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, the minister has ^till free ish and entry. On the south side of the road from Auch- ^loch to Glasgow, there is still the Cockplay well, over which many proprietors and feuars have a servitude. The well on the farm of Auchinleck by Robroyston burn, is common to all the farmers round, and has supplied the wants of many chums. The wells 400 LANARKSHIRE. of Muckcroft and Burnbrae deserve to be noted, though, from the removal of the ancient inhabitants, it is now little frequented. The well at Bedlay behoves to be specially mentioned, not only on ac- count of the copiousness, the constancy, and the salubrity of its wa- ter, but from an unreasonable attempt in 1807 to deprive the pro- prietors, feuars and cottagers of Chryston of its benefit, — which they effectually resisted upon the negative prescription of forty years undisturbed possession ; while there could be no doubt that the Grays of Chryston occupied it equally from time immemorial with the proprietor of Bedlay. There was an extensive loch in the very centre of the parish, which gave the name to a property now converted into two farms by the proprietor of Cadder. It partly gave name to two other pro- perties, called the Easter and Wester Lumloch; and, besides other places, to a considerable township called Auchinloch, whence the water issued from it One of the proprietors of the parish com- menced a drift below one of the gentle ridges which rise from the parish of Kirkintilloch, which drain needed to be continued near- ly a mile, but from the unskil fulness or corruptibleness of the mi- ners, it is said to have ruined three proprietors of the Loch estate. After it was drained, the College of Glasgow, the titulars of the teinds of Cadder, tried to get it valued with the rest of the parish, but although it cost the then possessor only a very moderate pur- chase money, the Court of Teinds overruled the attempt. A lint- mill in the parish of Kirkintilloch has a servitude on its drain, pro- bably because the stream without detriment was to go through the lands where it is placed. The sluice may be shut three weeks after all is shorn, and must be opened again on the first of March. There was another loch called Loch Grog, which was also drain- ed in 1808, though the ground is not so firm as to be all yet arable. Upon it, the proprietors of the Lumlochs, then not fewer than four, had a servitude for watering their cattle and steeping their lint ; and what is more strange, the numerous proprietors of Balmone in the parish of Baldernock, who hold of the duke of Montrose, had a similar servitude upon it, though two miles dis- tant. There is another loch in the west division of the parish called Robroyston Loch, about one-third of which is in the pa- rish of Cadder. It is fast filling up, not so much with what is car- ried into it, as with what grows and decays all around it. It has been seen by the aged almost completely dry, and the water once was so thoroughly frozen, that most of the fish, chiefly eels, were im- CADDER. 401 Wded in the ice. It is surrounded by rising grounds on the one side, equal to any acclivity in the parish, — from which the manure aod even soil is washed, and the burn carries down, in its long and circuitous course, so niuch soil, that it needs no dung; but sometimes the crops are destroyed by the drain not allowing the water to escape when rapidly collected. Oats grew spontaneously at its brink for many years. There is a loch in the east end of the parish and district of Cbryston, about a mile directly south from that village, called Johnston Loch. It is about a mile in circumference, and belongs to the Forth and Clyde Canal Company. There, is besides, the Bishop^slocb, partly in Cadder, but chiefly in Old Monkland, above *Daile in length, and about a quarter of a mile in average breadth. It is also one of the chief reservoirs for the Forth and Clyde Canal Company. Lastly, there is Gartinqueen loch, which is chiefly sup- plied by a streamlet from the New Monkland parish. Its stream drives a lint and now also a corn-mill at Croftfoot It afterwards joins the issues from the Bishop and Johnston lochs, which are still fofther augmented by the issues from two lochs in the parish of Old Monkland ; and the whole is collected in winter to drive the fl*x-.mill at DrimcaviL It was wont, prior to the erection of both of these mills mentioned, to be collected at Bedlay by a strong dam, so as to cover about two acres, to drive the Bishop's corn-mill at fedlay. This dam has been allowed to fall into decay, and the ^^^ervoir has been gradually filled up within about thirty years ; ^^d latterly, the bed of it has been lessened by sloping down the **^ost perpendicular bank at Bedlay house, and most likely it will ^©Ver again be attempted to be re-opened. After this large stream "^ performed its duty to the ancient mill of the Bishop, it winds through the delightful vale between Millbrae and Gartferry, adorn- ^ v?ith almost every species of natural under-wood, and every kind ®* deciduous forest trees. After Both land burn has been a good '^^^ile detained in this valley, it is again stopped to turn the lint- ^^\\ of Auchengeich. It then rolls on through haughs which *^ bas raised and fertilized, till it receives the tributary stream ^^ Gamkirk and Daviston. After being joined by some other ^fns, it falls into the Luggie, which, after it has passed the ancient ^^^n of Kirkintilloch, is merged in the Kelvin. Geology and Mineralogy, — The general direction of the strata ^^ the transition rocks in the parish, is from north-east to south- ^^st Where the new Monkland meets, and indents into the east ^'id, there is presented an invariable though unequal front of 402 LANARKSHIRE. whinstone. From it, several ridges have originated, and run like streams of lava, sometimes rising many feet almost perpendicular on both sides above the surface, but generally sinking below till they emerge at Baldemock, New Kilpatrick, or Barony parishes. The freestone, roughly granulated, rises in several places to the sur* face, and even a little above it, alternating perhaps with the whin- stone. In addition to our inexhaustible supply of whinstone and freestone, there is also abundance of limestone. None of it &lls readily or completely in powder ; but it is all reckoned strong, and forms a firm band in building. It has been partly wrought throughout the length of the parish, and is at present wrought on the estates of Garnkirk, Bedlay, and Shankramuir, to a great extent. A gr^t part of it is at present required in the surrounding iron-works. Common bivalve and other shells are found in the limestone. In 1829, and for successive years, the gas issuing from the fissures of the limestone rock, rose through the earth, and even the water on its surface, on the small property of the Holms, once belonging to the lands of Chryston, — and was easily kindled with a match, and burnt brilliantly on the surface of the water. It was visited by scientific and other persons, both from Glasgow and Edinburgh. Coal is universal throughout the parish at considerable depth ; and what has been wrought to burn the lime is perhaps not even of the third quality. Ijarger seams and better coal would doubtless be discovered at a greater depth. A small seam was lately disco- vered in the west end of the parish. Any that has yet been wrought is so far inferior to that in the Monklands and Barony, from which we are so plentifully and cheaply supplied by means of canals, railways, and roads, that it will not likely be soon wrought to a great extent in the parish of Cadder. There are no other minerals yet discovered in the parish, ex- cept immense fields of fire clay, on the track of the Garnkirk and Glasgow railway, and elsewhere. That on the estate of Garn- kirk varies in thickness from 4 to 19 feet, and is equal if not supe- rior to Stourbridge clay. That on the estate of Baads, belonging to Dr Jefiray, is not quiie so fine, but is excellent for making fire brick. At the extensive works on Garnkirk estate, vases and flower-pots, and cans, and pots, and crucibles are manu&ctured, which for elegance and durability are perhaps rarely equalled, so that they are likely soon to become as general as Newcastle grind- ing stones. In our limestone tirrings and other places, boulders of ironstone are frequently found, which would furnish beautiful spe- CADDER. 403 cimens, if polished by the lapidary ; and it is thought abundance of the metal cannot be far from being discovered. The soils of this parish are almost of every description. On the banks of the Kelvin, Luggie, and Bothland, and other stream- lets, the soil is to a certain extent alluvial. We have next a very light sandy soil in many places, upon deep water-laid graveL There is, thirdly, in several places a soil a little more earthy, form- ed chiefly of the whinstone rock. Fourthly, We have a deep l>lack soil, nearly allied to, and perhaps chiefly composed of, most. Fifthly, There is a thin mossy soil mixed with white sand. Last- ly, we have, on by far the greater part of the parish, a deep stifle tilly soil, containing scarcely a stone, but generally tinged with iron ibr many fathoms, until we arrive at some mineral or metal. We liave^ moreover, eight or nine mosses, some of them of great depth amd extent. Some have already been reclaimed, and they are all ^[radually, and some of them rapidly, lessening by peat-cutting, — so ihat oats, rye-grass, and even wheat, grow luxuriantly, where the adder basked, the moorfowl fed, and the long heath waved. Botany. — In such a diversity of soils, and on such an extent of surface, we have a great number of plants. I shall enumerate a few, most of which are rather rare. Adoxa Moaehatellina, Milium effusum, Achillea millefolium, Melica uniflora et ccerulea, Aliuna ranuneuloideSf Myosotis palustris, Briza media, Menyantbes trifoUata, Circaea lutetiana, Nympbaea alba, Centunculus minimus, Nuphar lutea, ConvolTulus sepium, Nasturtium amphibum, C^ciita rirosa, Ophioglossum vulgatum, Cardamine amara. Orchis mascula et latifolia et maculata« Digitalis purpurea, Pinguicula vulgaris, iSpipactis latifolia, Poa decumbens, Galium cnudatum. Polygonum bistorta, Oentiana campestris, Pyrola media, Onaphalium syWaticum et rectum, et Polypodium Tulgare et phegopteris et xninimum, dryopteris, Gymnadenia conopsea. Ranunculus hederaceus et lingua, et Hippuris vulgaris, auricomus, Hjacinthus non scriptus, Scirpus syWaticus, Hypericum humifusum et pulchrum , Sherardia arrensis, Habenaria bifolia, Symphytum tuberosum, Janone montana, Solanum dulcamara, XMSOBtAua thyndflora, Spergula nodosa, iJguaticum meum, Sparganium ramosum, T.inwm catharticum, Tormentilla reptans, 8i»on inundatum, Trollius Europceus, Lamium inctsum, Veronica scutellata et montana, Leontodon palustre, Valeriana officinalis, Uctera ovata, \ iola palustris et odorata et tricolor. On Cadder estate, there is one plantation that is called the Wilderness. It was designed, it is said, to represent the arrange- 404 LANARKSHIRE. ment of lines in the battle of Dettingen. There are many treej of great size and age on the estate, and especially around the hous< of Cadder. The quantity of planting on Cadder estate, compris- ing 4078 acres, is considerably above 280 acres. Gramkirk estate consisting of 1457 acres, contains 150 of planting. Bedlay es- tate, which, when possessed by the Robertons, after the Earl oi Kilmarnock, contained so much planting, has now only 20 acrej under wood. On Robroyston estate, which consists of about 55€ acres, there are not above 10 acres of planting. The greater part of the natural wood in the parish is on the banks of Millbrae and Gartferry, and on the estates of Auchengeich and Cadder. The love of money, and the desire to lay house to house, and field to field, have made many parts of this parish, once popu- lous, now a wilderness. Tlie few who yet linger here of former generations can tell of ten farm-steadings in their remembrance now effaced from the map of the parish. Within the last twenty- six years, no fewer than thirteen properties, some of them of consi- derable extent, and which were considered as secure as the founda- tions of the everlasting hills, have from necessity exchanged pro- prietors, and the decent families have been reduced and scattered. Many passages in the Deserted Village, apply strongly and ap- propriately to the parish of Cadder. II. — Civil History. There is a tradition that, about the year 1666, the plague visit- ed Auchenairn, and other villages in the parish. Distinguished Families. — The Grays of Chryston were a fami- ly of very considerable antiquity, possessed of a large property, and who cultivated an ardent, rational, and scriptural piety. The first feu-charter is granted by Walter, heritable proprietor of the lordship and barony of Glasgow, to John Gray of Chryston, No- vember 1589. The family is now extinct. The last that died should have been called Purdon, but he preferred and continued the name of Gray. Two of the Muirs of Gartferry, a rather ancient and respect- able family, the last the great-grandfather of the present proprie- tor, are still spoken of by every aged person in the parish as re- markable for piety. Dr William Leechman, Principal of the University of Glas- gow, was proprietor of the estate of Auchenairn. In 1764, he gave a house for the teacher, and a school for the children, and the elec- tion of the schoolmaster to the moderator and remanent members 3 CADDER. 405 of the kirk-session of Cadder, and their successors in office, and at>out a rood of land for a yard, — under the express condition, that the schoolmaster teach the youth literature and Christian know- ledge. The ground has been considerably encroached upon by tkc adjacent feuars ; and a new and superior house was erected in 1 B26, chiefly by the late Charles Stirling, Esq. assisted by the late Archibald Lament of Robroyston, Esq. and others. It is notorious, that the curate of Cadder intimated the sentence ^f ejection to the Rev. William Guthrie, minister of Fenwick, on 24th July 1664 ; and it is said he never returned again to his cu- racy. Thomas Muir, Esq. advocate, who was banished in 1793 for ^vocating the principles of Reform, was brought up at Hunters- UU in this parish. James Boyd of Trochrig, minister of Kirkoswald, was the first regularly appointed Protestant archbishop of Glasgow. He was i^sed to the see in 1572. He feued the lands of Bedlay to Lord Boyd, afterwards Earl of Kilmarnock. The estate of Gamkirk belonged to the Dunlops, also a respect- *hle family, of whom Colin Dunlop, Esq. lately one of the mem- ^R of Parliament for Glasgow, is the representative. Both pro- perties were held for a short time, and transmitted to the present possessors, on whom they are now entailed, by the late John Mac- •^nzie, Esq. The Peters, late of Crossbasket, were the last pos- sessors of the estate of Carderroch, now, with other lands, an un- entailed part of the estate of Cadder. It was the practice of the ^pectable families in the parish, to bury in the aisle or middle Passage of the church, and some of them below their own seats. Land'owners. — The chief proprietors are Archibald Stirling, ^q« of Keir, Cadder, and Kenmure in Scotland, and Hampden, ^d other large estates in Jamaica ;* Mark Sprot, Esq. of Gam- **^'^ ; Alexander Campbell, Esq. of Bedlay ; and La- ^ont, Esq. of Ard lament and Robroyston. These four proprie- ^ possess above L. 400 Scots valuation. The properties of ^ne two last, and by far the lowest, yield about L. 1000 Sterling, annually. James Denniston, Esq. of Golfhill, banker in Glasgow, proprie- ^^ of Easter Muckcroft and Langrig, part of the lands of Chrys- ^^ ; Robert Buchanan, Esq. of Drumpeller, proprietor of Gartin- In 1635, the estate of Cadder came into the possession of Keir by his eldest ^ ttitrrying the beire§8 of Cadder. Unark. D d 406 LANARKSHrRE. queen ; AdaDi Cubie of Auchenloch ; John Scott of Auchenloch ; David Dobie of Gartferry ; the heirs of John Gibson, late proprie- tor of Johnston ; the heirs of the late James Hill of Busby, pro- prietor of Gartcosh ; James Campbell of Auchenairn ; James Gray of Auchengeich ; Patrick Scot of Auchenairn, — are all commission- ers in the parish, possessed of at least L. 100 Scots valuation. Dr James Jeffray, Professor of Anatomy in the College of Glas- gow, proprietor of Baads ; Hugh Robertson of Gartloch ; John Muir of Gartferry ; James Millar of Millersneuck ; Charles A. King, Woodneuck ; James Tennent, Croftfoot ; Robert Bogle, Auchinloch ; David Scales Cleland, Springfield ; John Drew, Burnbrae ; William Dick, Lumloch ; James Jarvie, Woodhill ; James Watson, Holms ; James Johnston, Wester Muckcroft ; Mr Cater, Auldyards ; WiUiam Scott, Mirymailing ; Mark Ste- venson, Boghead ; John Macdougal, Glenbank ; Mr Perston, Auldyards ; John Carss, Lochbank ; Misses Calders, Daviston ; William Davison, Auchenairn; Henry Glen, Cladding; Alexan- der Galloway, Huntershill ; are all possessed of properties in the parish, above, and most of them much above L. 50 Sterling, per an- lu. . Parochial Registers, — The parochial register for births and baptisms, commences 28th September 1662; proclamations, 1st March 1663. There are rules at the beginning of the volume for the regulation of kirk-sessions, dated " apud Glasgow, 8th April 1672." This volume is in an excellent state of preservation. Births and baptisms begin at the one end of the volume, and pro- clamations commence at the other. There are two more •vo- lumes, one finished, and the other in progress. The records of the kirk-session commence September 14, 1688. The first and part of the second volume are also iq an excellent state of pre- servation. There have been no minutes of the session recorded during the whole of Mr Alexander Dun's incumbency, a period of more than forty years ; and nine years of the incumbency of Mr Warden are also lost. There is a blank in the records of session from May 8, 1737, till 27th March 1791. Antiquities. — The Bishops-mill may be reckoned among the an- tiquities of this parish. Every heritor in the Bishops-land (called anciently the Baldermonocks Ward or Monks-town, and compre- hending ten townships, each of which contained eight ploughgates of land, and which comprehends the whole of the parish except the ancient entailed estate of Cadder, which was not more than half CADDER. 407 the present estate) is and must be seised in it, else his titles are not ▼alid. The whole of the parish, except the old entailed estate of Cadder and the Midtown of Bedlay (says the writer of the former Account) belonf2[ed to the subdeanery of Glasgow. From this ec- clesiastical tejiure are derived the names of several places in the parish, such as Bishop's bridge ; — the Bishop's moss between Hun- tershill and Springfield ; and the Bishop- s loch (now subject to the glorious uncertainty of the law) between Cadder and old Monkland. Another antiquity in the parish was the house, a few yards south- west from the mansion-house of Robroyston, where Sir William Wallace is said to have been betrayed by his kinsman Sir John Monteith, on the 11th September 1303. Every vestige of the house in which he was betrayed is now gone. Part of the Roman wall, built by LoUius Urbicus, forms the north ^undary of the present glebe, intervening between it and the ca- ^L It was above thirty-six miles in length, and the ditch forty- ^ven feet wide and twenty-two feet deep. When Cadder pond was cleaned and repaired in 1813, a coin ^r medal of Antoninus Pius was found in an excellent state of preservation, but with a little piece broken or worn off. It was supposed to be of gold. It was given to the late Charles Stir- Mng, Esq. In the following year, when levelling the lawn in the front of Cadder House, part of the foundations of the old tower were discovered, and a vessel full of gold coins, which the Workmen carried away with them. A few of them were reco- vered in Glasgow. They were generally about the size of a shil- ling. The number found must have been at least 350 ; they bore 4e inscription Jacobus. * Modem Buildings. — Among the modem buildings in the parish, * drawing-room added to the house of Cadder deserves to be njentioned, for the skill of the architect, David Hamilton, and the ^e of the proprietor, Charles Stirling, Esq. It may also be no- ^ced that John Knox dispensed the sacrament of the Supper in Ae hall of the house of Cadder. Mark Sprott of Garnkirk, Esq. ^ built a neat modern mansion in the parish. The other man- sion-houses are at Gartloch, Springfield, Bedlay, Robroyston, ^rtferry, and Glaudhall. • Some other minor antiquities arc noticed in the MS. 408 LANARKSHIRE. III. — Population. The population in 1755, . 2936 1792, - 1767 1801, - 2120 1811, - 2487 1821, - 2798 1831, - . 3048— males 1600, females 1448. Taking old and new Auchenairn as one village, we have eight villages in the parish, viz. Cadder, Bishops-bridge, and Auchen- airn in the west division of the parish ; Auchenloch, Chryston, Muirhead, Mudiesburn, and Mollenburn in the eastern district. Of these, Chryston is the largest, and by far the most handsome, and might become a large and neat village, if it had water; but it depends almost entirely on the well of Bedlay, which is at least the eighth part of a mile distant, and has a very steep descent to it. Chryston contains 84 families and 374 persons ; Auchenairn, old and new, 60 families and 284 persons; Bishops-bridge, 38 families and 175 persons; Mollenburn, 32 &mi1ies and 172 persons. This village is well situated for wood and water and whinstone rock, and might be- come a handsome village, were the feu more moderate. Mudiesburn, 30 families and 143 persons ; Cadder, which used to contain at least 50 families, contains now only 13 families, and 64 persons, all em- ployed on the estate of Cadder ; Auchenloch, 17 families, 89 per- sons ; Muirhead, 9 families, and 40 persons. The lime, coal, and clay-works at Gamkirk, have collected a very considerable popu- lation, of such a description as is found about newly erected pub- lic works. The average number of births registered for the last seven years, is about fifty ; proclamations, twenty-five ; deaths or burials, about thirty. The births have never been all registered, though those who are not able to pay, get them recorded gratis. Some have always buried in other parishes. In 1828, a burying-ground was purchased at Chryston, where the greater part in that division of the parish now bury. The ground is sold in perpetuity in three lairs, the highest cost of which is L. 3 in the very best situations. It has been drained, but being an impervious till, the draining has had little eflFect. The private burying-places, said to be six in number, by the writer of the last Account, viz. Chryston, Bedlay, Gartferry, Auchingeish, Easter 31uck- croft, and the tombs at Auchenairn, are fast falling into decay. Over Chryston tomb, where many of the Grays of Chryston and others repose, the Cumbernauld road has now been carried. There are three fatuous persons in the parish, one of them deaf CADDRR. 409 and dumb, one furious and confined ; five deaf and dumb, and four of them in one family. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The rental of the parish is about L. 14,000, in- cluding every burden the farmer bears, — without taking into account the feus paid to the different superiors. There are about 1 10 far- mers in the parish. Of these, two pay above L. 500 of rent, two above L. 400, one above L. 300, sixteen above L. 200, thirty-nine above Li* 100, nineteen above L. 50. The largest farmers employ about six men and four women, all in the house : the rest in proportion, — but fewer or sometimes none, if their families are numerous and grown. —There are almost no cottars under the farmers. The cottars Saturday or even Sabbath night will soon not be known in Scot- land. We have comparatively very few labourers. Our farmers dwell alone, quite detached. We have, of course, a number of feuars in our villages. None of them are beyond sixty years stand- ing. The destruction of the old townships originated and in- creased the feuars. The erection of the chapel at Chryston in 1779, gave occasion to feus in that village. Several of the feuars are bound, in their titles, to pay cess and teind, and other public ^d parochial burdens; and they are classed among and rank as heritors. Neither superiors nor feuars had, so far as we can learn, ^y object in view when they so designed them, but that they ^^ht so far free the superior. They are not rated in the cess- l^oob, nor have they hitherto paid any teind. It was only ascer- ^ed in 1816 that they were heritors and patrons of the parish. There are about 8700 acres in cultivation. There are more than 300 acres of deep moss. There may be about an acre on which *he whinstone rises at least twenty feet perpendicular on both sides ; *wd about three acres on which the freestone rises to the surface. The rest is covered with planting, fences, streams, and roads, and l^les. The commonties are all done away. But there are still al)out three acres at Muirhead near Chryston, on which the old feu- ^ at Chryston have a servitude for feal and divot^ to keep their houses in repair. They can take only the surface while heath, ^hes, or grass continue to cover it, Live-Stock. — Our cows are all of the Ayrshire breed, and it is al- leged that we have surpassed the original. It is said that some of the formers' wives have boasted that they realized fourteen pounds of but- ter from each cow. We can raise grain on some parts of the parish equal to any or to most in Scotland ; but the butter milk and butter ! 410 LANARKSHIRE. still may be said to pay our rents, when they are brought to Glasgow from a circle of at least fourteen miles round. Almost every farmer has a churning as well as a thrashing machine, all driven by horse power; and the quantity of milk that is taken to Glasgow, sweet and sour, every day, is almost incredible. Some of our farmers are considered the best ploughmen in the Old Monkland, Barony, Bothwell, and Cadder Farming Society, and have carried off the highest prizes where they competed. Drain- ing has been for a long time attended to, and is now carried on with the greatest vigour, and to the utmost extent The proprietor in ge- neral opens the drains, and the farmer carries and puts in the stones, wood, turf, or tiles, and closes them. A rush bush is likely soon to be as rare as a stone in our tilly soil, and not a drop of water will be seen where the soil is lighter. The heath and indigenous grass which have been long striving to gain their former dominion, will soon be ba- nished, and a softer and more varied carpet will be presented by our pastures. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. The state of the farm buildings is in general good ; and in some in- stances they are elegant and commodious. The soil has hitherto, for the most part, been unfavourable to hedges; and we cannot say that they have been carefully trained. We had few inclosures of any kind prior to 1790. Produce. — We raise annually about 510 acres of wheat, 1900 of oats, 103 of barley, 150 of beans, 470 of potatoes, 140 of tur- nips, 890 of rye-grass, 80 of flax, and 7 of natural hay. There are about 1000 cows, 490queys, 150 calves, 320 horses, 50 colts, and 20 foals. To these we may add about 10 pet sheep, and at pre- sent 2 goats. We have no pasturage to let, unless on a farm when accidental- ly out of lease, or the lawns around some mansion-house, which are generally occupied by the Glasgow butchers. Our young cattle are generally grazed on the braes of Campsie or Kilsyth, or on some other lands somewhat distant from Glasgow. V. — Parochial Economy. Meatis of Communication, — Glasgow is the post-office for part of the parish ; but Kirkintilloch, to those who live near it. The Inchbelly road, by Kirkintilloch, runs about four miles through the west division of the parish, and the Cumbernauld road runs nearly the same length through the other district of the parish. They are both pretty well kept. We have not above five of what can be called bridges, all of one CADDER. 411 arch, and two of these over the Grarnkirk and Kirkintilloch rail- ^ys. They are all new and substantial. The Forth and Clyde Canal intersects the west end of the parish, running nearly parallel with the Kelvin for about five miles, and has four draw-bridges upon it m that space. The shipping upon it from Grangemouth, where it joins the Forth, to Bowling Bay, where it joins the Clyde, is very great. The number of passengers in the swift boats was in 1835 unmense, though the boats have not even the essentially necessary Accommodations. They convey even the loaded carts of carriers along it. The Kirkintilloch railway was opened in 1826, and cost about L.7000 per mile. It intersects the east end of the parish, about five miles almost directly across. From the canal 160 feet above the sea level, formed by twenty locks, rising each eight feet, the ter- mination of the railway may rise ten feet to allow the vessels to lie ^ong-side to receive the coals and lime, &c. brought down in the waggons ; it continues to rise occasionally throughout its course to Ae loch of Gartinqueen. This railway is mostly single, and has a peat trade in coals, and is beginningand will continue progressively to be profitable. The Garnkirk and Glasgow railway skirts the south ^ie of the parish for about five miles. It is altogether double, and '^ formed at the cost of about L. 12,000 per mile. It was open- ^ in 1831. It has some deep excavations and high embankments. *^has not yet begun to pay, and it cannot be conjectured when it '^'II do so. Besides these public turnpikes and railways and the canal, we l^^veat least thirty-five miles of parish roads ; for making and repair- "^ of which, upwards of L. 10 per mile annually have been raised ^i are said to have been expended, for about twenty years ; and y®t the roads are in many places scarcely passable. The lines are "^ circuitous and hilly, their width is not regular, and they are ^^^ managed as the act directs. fkclesiastical State, — The parish church is situated about four °^les from the westmost houses, and nine miles from the eastmost. ^* Was built in 1829-30, and opened on the 5th September ^^80. It is considered particularly neat and commodious, slightly l^^thic, with a neat square tower. It contains 740 sittings at 18 ^^ches to a sitter, and cost fully L. 2000. On sacramental occa- sions, 1000 persons are seated in it, while hundreds stand. There are no free sittings. There have been many benefactions left to the parish; but they have disappeared when no session records 412 LANARKSHIRE. were kept, partly from the persons who had the care of the money becoming insolvent The kirk-session had above L, 400 morti* fied for the poor, and solely at their disposal ; but it was all ex- pended during the time that the settlement of the minister was opposed. The present manse was built in 1794, and received a partial repair in 1819. It was originally insufficient, and no repairs will ever make it comfortable. The extent of the glebe is about 10 acres of very light land. The extent of glebe in 1793, was 4 acres, 1 rood, and 26 falls, and about 20 acres of bog undivided from it, which Mr Dun claimed as part of his glebe ; and the mi- nisters of Cadder, for at least 800 years, could get water for their cattle without possessing all the solid part of it, which some say ex- tended to six, others to eight acres. The minister besides, had a right of pasturage over at least 100 acres of moor, on which and the bog, he ordinarily grazed three cows, two horses, and some young cat- tle. In 1793, an excambion took place, and part of the glebe on the we^t of the canal, was exchanged for very inferior land on the east of the canal ; and four acres were obtained for the servitude over the moor. The bog was neither inspected nor excambed ; but was af- terwards held as included in the excambion, the minister receiving for tent-ground a piece of waste land of about an acre in extent. The excambion was encroached upon, when the fence between the glebe and the lands of Crofthead was drawn. The extent of the glebe was thereby greatly lessened. Cadder parish was mostly valued between 1735 and 1750; and though e^^tensive, it had then neither roads nor fences, and the greatest part of it being covered with heath, rushes, and reeds, was va- lued very low. The College of Glasgow were then titulars of the teinds, and the professors were disposed to value it wholly in money, except about as much meal and barley as they might require. The money stipend amounts to L. 211, 13s. 4d. The meal is 56 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks. The bear 5 bolls, 3 firlots, averaging be- tween L. 260 and 270. There was an augmentation obtained in 1819, which cannot be realized, as the teinds are exhausted, and the College have surrendered them to the incumbent, who draws as stated above, communibus annis. There was, in the corner of the park belonging to Mr Robert Bogle, about twenty yards from the road leading past Auchenloch to Kirkintilloch on the south, and about equally distant on the north from the road, from Auchenloch to Chryston, a meeting- CADDER. 413 house, as it was then called, — where the minister of Cadder preach- ed every third Sabbath, at least since the Revolution in 1688. There, every proprietor had his pew as well as in the parish kirk, though it was chiefly for the accommodation of the eastern divi- ^on of the parish. This meeting-house was afterwards supersed- ed by the erection of a chapel in the village of Chryston. The proprietors and inhabitants in the east district, particularly, contri- buted to its erection. The labourers quarried the stones gratui- tously, and the farmers carted them and the lime. This chapel is now erected into the church of Chryston quoad sacra. Mr Provan was the first preacher in the chapel, at L. 50 per annum. The Rev. John Dick, late minister of Rutherglen, was the first ordain- ^ minister, at the same stipend. In his time, a manse was erect- ed; but it is the property of the managers in trust. The pre- sent legal stipend is L. 70, — which every person must admit to be greatly too little. The chapel is seated to contain about 500 persons, but the sittings are a third more closely compacted than in the parish church. The chapel is generally well attended. Di- ^e service is also well attended in the parish church. About ^0 persons communicate in the church, and perhaps rather more in the chapel. Education, — There are seven schools in the parish. Three pa- •"ochial, Cadder, Chryston and Auchenairn. One endowed, Auch- enloch. Two unendowed, MoUenbum and Crofthead. One sup- ported by Mrs Stirling at Bishop-bridge. The first parochial ^noolmaster at Cadder has a chalderand a half of salary, amount- *^ to L. 25, Ids. 4d. and about the same amount from school fees, ^e other parochial schoolmaster in Auchenairn has halfachalder, ^d about L. 38, of school wages. His school is also endowed with 'ne interest of 1000 merks, mortified by the late Rev. James "'^J'den. The school at Auchenloch is endowed with the interest ®f ^t least L. 300, left by the late Patrick Baird, merchant. The Parochial schoolmaster at Chryston has a chalder of salary, and '"e School fees may average L. 50 annually. The unendowed ^bool at MoUanburn may produce from L. 20 to L. 30 annually ^^^ school fees. The unendowed school at Gartinqueen may PMuce about L. 20 from school fees. The infant and sewing school ^ Bishop-bridge, originated by the amiable widow of the late ^barles Stirling, Esq. is supported by her and her brother-in-law ^^ Stirling of Cadder. They have built a good school- house, and allow L. 30 annually to the mistress, with the profits of the school, 414 LANARKSHIRE. which are not great The parochial schoolmasters have all more than the legal accommodation, except the schoolmaster at Chrys- ton, who has no garden, and an insufficient dwelling-house. The teachers have all attended the University of Glasgow ; and the principal teacher is a preacher of the GospeL There are few, if any, persons belonging to the parish who cannot read ; but some of the children of the weavers who cannot earn above 6s. a week are put very early to drawing and even weaving, and are but par- tially taught. We have at least three Sabbath schools in the west division of the parish, supported by the lady before-mentioned. There are small juvenile libraries attached to three of the Sunday schools by Mrs Stirling. A library was originated last year at Au« chenairn. There is a library also begun at Chryston. Societies. — We have two charitable societies in the west district of the parish, of about thirty years standing. They do some good to decayed members; but had it not been for extraneous aid, they would have been far reduced, if not completely sunk. There was one in Chryston, perhaps more flourishing than either of them, and which had existed longer, but it was by general consent dissolved and the stock divided. Savings Bank, — The late Charles Stirling, Esq. about ten years ago, established a savings bank, upon the liberal principle of giving at least one per cent, above any chartered, united, or indi- vidual banks. The whole of the parishioners, and even those in contiguous parishes, are allowed to lodge their savings in it A great deal has been lodged ; but not chiefly by those for whom such banks are intended. It promises fair to supplant all the friendly societies. The same active and enterprising merchant bequeathed to the kirk-session of Cadder, the rightof recommending three patients to the Royallnflrmary of Glasgow. The parish had previously the right of recommending at least one patient. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 16. The average allowance per month is 4s. 4d. in the east district, and a little less in the west. There are two persons in the asylum, supported at an average of 9s. Id. weekly. At the church and chapel, the collections amount to about L. 27 annually, nearly in equal proportions. The deficien- cy is made up by voluntary assessment Besides the supply of the regular poor by the collections and voluntary contributions, a small proprietor of Slakiewood in the east distript, named Walter Barton, burdened his property in perpetuity with L. 5 Sterling annually, to CADDER. 415 be given to poor householders in the district of Chryston, not upon the roll, — so long as a board was kept upon the chapel in Chryston in good order, and a tombstone also in good repair in the church- yard of Gadder, recording the donation. These boards were com- moD in the olden time. In the parish church of Cadder, there were a great many keeping in remembrance the sums mortified for their particular uses, by the beneficent individuals. They were all, very improperly, cast above the ceiling in 1784, when the late church vas lathed and plastered. When it was taken down, the only one tbat was rescued was that of the Rev. Mr Warden, recording his iDortiGcation of 1000 merks to the school of Auchenairn. It is much ^yed. Mr Hamilton of Mavisbank lately left to the kirk-ses- SMNi L 50 Sterling, which is deposited in the Glasgow bank, and ^ a little in supplying destitute householders. Beside all this, toe necessitous householders would sometimes suffer severely, were >t not for the help they receive from their working brethren. No ■^ than L. 9 were collected lately for one destitute family, all al- ^'^^ from the working classes. It must be noticed that the extra col- '^ion at the sacrament in Cadder is immediately divided among the needy, — over and above their regular supply. This may ave- '^ L 7. At Chryston, the extra collection is given to the mi- "^'ster, to defray public and private expenses. ■Pair. — There was a fair held in Chryston for fat cattle, and ^ther things about Martinmas: but it gradually dwindled away *bout the beginning of the present century. JnnSf Sfc. — Of inns and alehouses, there are at present no fewer ^han 21 ; but not more than nine would be required. There is one ^tillery in the parish; and another was lately erected, — but lucki- y there was not a sufficient supply of water, and it was converted ^to a farm-steading. Ilie fuel that is used in the parish is chiefly, it may be said sole- ly) coaL Coals when carted above five miles cost 5s. 6d. the 12 cwt. PARISH OF CAMBUSLANG. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR, THE REV. JOHN ROBERTSON, D. D. MINISTER. • I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — In the last Statistical Report, it is stated that this pa- rish was anciently called Drumsargard ; but this appears to be a mistake. In the seventeenth century, the name of the barony of Drumsharg or Drumsargard, which includes the larger portion of the parish, was changed to Cambuslang, the name the parish always bore ; and hence, probably, the misapprehension into which the late Dr Meek, Anderson in his Diplom. Scotiae, and others have fallen. Cam in the British and Celtic, transformed by the Scoto- Saxons into Cambusj signiBes bending or bowed, — usp or uisff means water, — and fflarij which in composition becomes lan^ denotes a bank or bank of a water; — thus Cambuslang appears to signify ihe " water with tiie bending bank." But whether the Cam or Qpnbus is to be sought for in the bending banks of the rivulet which passes the church, or in the magnificent sweep of the Clyde, as it winds round the northern end of the parish, it is impossible to say. Extent — Boundaries. — The length of the parish from near Stonymeadow toll-bar on the south, to the Clyde near Kenmuir on the north, is 3^ miles ; and from the eastern boundary of Carmun- nock near Fishes Coat, on the west, to the point where the waters of the Calder fall into the Clyde on the east, it is nearly the same across. It is bounded by the Clyde on the north, which separates it from the parish of Old Monkland ; by the Calder on the east, which separates it from Blantyre; by part of Blantyre and Kil- bryde, on the south ; and by Carmunnock and Rutherglen, on the west. Topographical Appearances. — It forms a very irregular quadri- lateral figure, one part of it jutting a considerable way into the pa- " Drawn up by the Rev. Williiim Patrick. The notes tu the nccount of the ** Cain- btislang Work" are su)>])lie(l by a clergyinan wIjo was fur some time minister of an adjoining parisli. CAMBUSLANG. 417 rish of Rutherglen, in the north-west corner. According to an au- thentic and very accurate survey, it contains 8.50 square miles, and 4325 statute acres. Lying at the north-west extremity of the great trough of the Clyde, near the western boundary of the district of Clydesdale, the greater part of the parish exhibits a low undulating surface, and forms part of the great vale on which the city of Glas- gow stands. The high grounds at Turnlaw and Dechmont, towards the south-west, which form a ridge about half a mile broad, and extending nearly two miles from east to west, are a continuation of the same range of whin hills which separate Douglas and Les- mahago from Ayrshire, and running through Avondale, Stonehouse, Hamilton, Blantyre, and Cambuslang, terminate in the county of Renfrew. Dechmont is about 600 feet above the level of the sea ; hut as it lies in a comparatively level country, the view from it is very extensive. Towards the south-east, Tinto, the Tweeddale, and Pentland hills are distinctly seen ; and to the north-west, the " lof- ty Benlomond," and many of the hills of Cowal and Rreadalbane. Among these last, the conical summit of Ben Loe, which is part- ly covered with snow from the end of October to the beginning of *^uly, makes a conspicuous figure. But (as the writer of the last account of this parish justly remarks) " the beauties of this pros- pect lie nearer at hand and more immediately in view, comprehend- 'og the strath of Clyde, from Lanark on the one hand, to Dum- '^rton on the other." Amidst the amazing variety of objects which "^^ present themselves to the eye of the spectator, the most striking ^^^ the windings of the river, and its banks adorned with villages, ^owns, and gentlemen's seats; the extensive woods and plantations ^^t Hamilton ; the magnificent ruins of Bothwell Castle ; but *"OVe all, the large and populous city of Glasgow, with its nume- ^^"s spires and beautiful cathedral. Meteorology, — The air, as in other places in the neighbourhood, van^g considerably according to elevation and the nature of the soil. ^\e low dry sheltered lands near the Clyde and Calder, it is gene- . 'y mild and temperate ; but towards the west and south-west, espe- c^aily about Dechmont and Turnlaw, it is sharper and more incle- ^^^t. No diseases are peculiar to the climate ; but small-pox, ^•lieh was scarcely heard of for many years, is again beginning to ^^e it5 appearance, and often in an aggravated form. The cli- "^t^ is so mild that snow seldom lies in the lower parts of the pa- ^sVi towards the Clyde ; but in the high grounds towards the south ^Gst, Dechmont often assumes a wintry shroud. Almost every fa- 418 LANARKSHIRE. mily of any consequence is now possessed of athennometer, baro- meter, and hygrometer, which are hung up in a handsome maho- gany frame as a piece of ornamental furniture. But few who are possessed of these instruments make any use of them, or know their value. We must therefore have recourse to other sources. From the most careful inquiry, it appears that the following tables, drawn up by the late Dr Meek from observations made at the manse of Cambuslang, from 1st January 1785 to 3 1st Decem- ber 1791; are the most correct which can be procured, and accord best with the present state of the climate. The three first co- lumns contain the mean, the greatest, and least height of the ba- rometer ; the three next, the mean, the greatest, and least height of the thermometer ; the four following, the average number of days in which the wind blew from the N. E., the S. E., the S. W., and the N. W. quarters ; the two last, the average number of dry and wet days. Tlie barometer was marked every day at 8 o'clock in the morning, and 1 o'clock at night ; the thermometer, not only at these times, but also at 2 o'clock afternoon ; so that co- lumns first and fourth express the mean height between these ex- tremes of the day. The situation of the manse is about 200 feet above the level of the sea, and about two miles north of Dechmont ' The last column is supplied from a rain-gage kept within a mile of the eastern border of the parish. barometer. M. H.G. H. L. H Jan. !29. Feb. ;29. March J29. 55 30. 59 |:M). April, May, June, July, Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. 29. 29. 29 29. 29. 29. 29. 29. 29. 69 72 74 70 53 61 59 51 30. ^. .10. .30. .30. 30, 30. 30. 48 30. 39 '30. 47 65 50 30 28 20 22 26 24 48 24 14 28.20 28. 48 2ft. 60 28. 70 28. 52 •2a 06 28.78 28. 90 28.44 2S. 38 12a 48 28.50 1 heriiiuineier. 29. 59 .30. 65 2ft 20 M. H. G. H. 38.^2 52** ;38. 9 55 39. 7 58 46.2 70 52.3 80 ,38. 4 85 59. 3 77 59. 3 77 54. 5 77 47.8 65 41.3 36 37.6 d4 30 13 18 27 36 48 47 45 36 26 21 3 Winds. NES E S WNW 47. 9 85 7 7 9 12 10 10 5 7 7 10 11 9 86 6 4 5 2 3 2 3 3 4 4 6 5 3 9 15 15 12 12 15 15 18 18 16 14 10 14 V\ eatber. 3 2 5 4 3 3 5 3 3 3 3 3 Dry. Wet 14 14 17 17 17 18 12 14 15 14 18 15 liaiu in inches. 14 i .^3 17 14 14 13 14 12 19 17 15 17 12 16 1.541 .836 1.55 I 1.134, 196d|. Il48i 2591 1.53-2 2164 2039 2699 2478 15 4 15 21.0561 The mean monthly and quarterly temperature in 1820 was as follows : Winter, M,H. Spring. Af. a* Summer, Ja. H, Autumn, 71/.//. Nov. 49.9 Feb. 38. May, 54. August, 61.6 Dec. 393 Mnr<^h, 43.9 June, 5a7 Sept. 57.8 Jan. 36.1 April, 49.9 July, 61. Oct. 4a9 Menn, 42. 1 4.3.6 57.9 56.1 )h. 45 min. - 2 . 2 30 2 45 3 15 3 30 3 45 4 . 4 15 CAMBUSLANG. 419 The thermometer is always highest between 2 and 3 o'clock in the afternoon, and lowest at 5 o'clock in the morning. During the great annular solar eclipse. May 15th 1836, the thermometer exliibited the following phenomena : Previous temperature in shade, 56** ; in sun, 61^ Time. Temp, in shade. Temp, in sun, - 55\ - - 59^7 55 .9 - . 59 .4 — OO •9 - ■ Oo • 56. - - 57.5 55.2 . - 57.7 55. - - 56.2 55. - -57.3 55 .4 - - 57 .6 56. - - 57.8 Hydrography. — The Clyde runs about three and a-half miles on the north of the parish. Its general coui-se through the middle ward is from south-east to north-west ; but here, if we take it from the point where it enters the parish at the mouth of the Calder to *^he point where it leaves it, its course is due east and west. It is from 200 to 250 feet broad, and, when it fills its channel, sweeps «onjf with great majesty. The tide generally flows to within a mile of this paris , and some great spring-tides have been observed to come up to the confines of it ; but this is a rare circumstance. The peatest floods seldom rise higher than 17 feet above the bed of the fiver. On 24th September 1712, the Clyde rose 18 feet 6 inches ; and on 12th March 1782, it attained the enormous height of 20 feet. Inhere is only one haugh, consisting of 1 8 acres of very rich land, "able to be overflowed. Tlie Calder forms the boundary between "Untyre and Cambuslang for three and a-half miles. It runs due '^orth, and after passing a variety of handsome scats in Kilbride, ^Uotyre, &c., such as Torrance, Calderwood, Crossbasket, and Calderbank, falls into the Clyde at a place called Turnwheel, near ftedlies. The banks are in general steep and richly wooded. The channel is gravel or freestone rock, and is from 30 to 40 feet broad, ^Ut is seldom wholly covered by the stream, which is rapid and ^hallow. The Kirk-burn rises near Easter Hill, on the borders of C^munnock, and, after a course of about two and a-half miles due ^orth, joins the Clyde near Moriston. For about a mile and a- Malf before its embouchure^ it makes several turnings, and is con- ftned by bold and perpendicular rocks of freestone from 50 to 100 feet high. The bold sweep which its banks make near the church is probably the cam from which the parish derives its name. New- ton burn rises near Turnlaw, and, after pursuing a northerly course 420 LANARKSHIRE. for about two and a-half miles, falls into the Clyde near Clyde's Mill. Cocks-burn rises near East Ro^erton in Kilbride, runs in an easterly direction upwards of three and a-half miles, and falls into the Calder near .Greenhall in Blantyre. These are all small streams, running on gravelly or rocky beds, in deep gullets or great ravines; occasionally pouring down heavy torrents, in the winter sea- son, into the channels of the Clyde or Calder, while in the summer season many of them are nearly dry. The village of Kirkhill, Cambuslang, is not well supplied with water. In the summer sea- son, in particular, the inhabitants are obliged to go a considerable distance to the Burn-well, a small open spring at the bottom of the " Preaching or Conversion Brae." There are two small lochs or lakes to the east of Dechmont, which appear to be artificial. Geology and Mineralogy. — This parish forms part of the great coal basin of the Clyde. The coal is wrought chiefly to the v^est and north-west towards Rutherglen, Springhall, and Coats. The field in which it is found lies on the south side of the Clyde, and may be about 3 miles square. It has a general slope from the Cathkin hills towards the river, with considerable swellings here and there, and in several place's is cut and broken by rivulets. At this field, at Stonelaw in Rutherglen, and generally throughout the district, there have been found at intervals, within 415 feet of the sur&ce, seven seams of coal, five of which are workable. The thickness of the seams, and their distance from the surface are nearly as follows : Thicknett, Relative ^ depth. Total depth. NametoJ Feet, Inch. Feet. Inch. Feet, Inch. rvarkableteam 1. seam, soft coal, 4 6 55 55 Mossdale. 2. do. do. 3 6 31 86 Rough ell 3. do. do. 5 67 153 Do. main. 4. do. do. 6 70 2 223 2 Humph. 5. do. do. 3 89 312 Splint ell. 6. do. hard do. good for A ironworks, forges, &c. 3 6 8 320 Do. main. 7. do. soft coal, 1 6 1 6 321 6 Till, &c. with thin seams of coal, 84 415 Total, 27 415 8 415 8 Before reaching the first coal, there is in most places a surface of earth and clay, from a few feet to 20 or 30 feet thick; beneath which, there are 20 feet of an argillaceous white freestone, succeed- ed by 30 or 40 feet of shale, with vegetable impressions, inter- mixed with thin strata of freestone separated from each other by a little clay or mica. There are about 6 inches of Dogger or coarse 4 CAMBUSLANG. 421 • ironstone above the coal, — and beneath, a little fire clay, and about 6 feet of shale mixed with shivery thin laminae of freestone. Be- neath this, are 24 feet of extremely hard freestone rock, and then the Sfeet 6 inch coal. 62 feet of till or shale separate this thin seam from ike 5 feet coal, which lies on a bed of shale 20 feet thick. Beneath tiiis, at the depth of upwards of 189 feet, we have a bed of hard compact limestone, usually called the Cambuslang marble, from 6 to 18 inches thick, and beautifully variegated with bivalve shdk This marble lies on 8 feet of shale, succeeded by about 8 feet of very hard white freestone, and 32 feet of shale or slate- day, mixed with ironstone. This brings us to the 6 feet coal, which lies upon a stratum of shale, with freestone 47 feet thick. 'The 3 feet coal is covered with about 8 inches of coarse ironstone, ^d lies upon 10 feet of shale, with vegetable impressions. After passing through 6 feet of freestone, we come to 14 feet of shale with vegetable impressions, and, at the depth of about 320 feet, there ^ two seams of ironstone 10 inches thick. These rest imme- diately upon the 3 feet 6 inch coal, which is separated by 18 inches of shale from the 1 foot 6 inch coal. Beneath this, to the depth of upwards of 80 feet, thin seams of coal are penetrated by boring, 'I'uxed with shale, freestone, and ironstone. This arrangement is by no means invariably the same, but is only given to furnish a general idea of the order of succession in which the metals lie. The thickness of the coals and of the free- stone varies considerably, and the strata are frequently deranged oy troubles, or dikes, of which there are several which run in a direction from east to west, and at pretty regular distances from ®^ch other. In their general lie^ the seams are usually nearly pa- '^lel to each other, although they always subtend a considerable ^'^gle with regard to the surface of the earth, and uniformly have fteir dip or declinature towards the Clyde. At the river, they lie ^^ny feet deep, but rise gradually till they crop out, or reach the f^rface, within less than a mile and a half from it. In approach- ing the Clyde, the dip is so much the less, and at a distance from ^^ it is one in four or five. The pits in Cambuslang are all the Property of the Duke of Hamilton, but are rented by James Farie, ^ of Farme. Before 1787, they were kept clear of water by a *®^el, which conducted the accumulated water of the workings into "^6 Clyde. But as it was found impossible to work the coal be- ^h that level, a steam engine was erected in the above year, ^d has ever since been used for the double purpose of drawing Unark. e e 422 LANARKSHIRE. • up the coaly and keeping the pits dry. The coals near Glasgow are in general much deeper than in the upper or eastern parts of the county, where they have not been so long wrought. At Cam- buslang, the pits are about 39^ fathoms deep, at Fullarton 65« at Westmuir 54, at Faskin 49, at Shettleston 42; whereas about Ha- milton and Dalserf, they are seldom more than 30 fathoms deep, and at Cleland sometimes only three or four. In sinking pits in this neighbourhood, there is often found a bed of free mud or quicksand many fathoms deep, which is kept from running away, and filling up the pits, by vast cylinders of iron, about 8 feet in^iameter, attached together with iron bolts. Each of these cylinders may weigh from two to three tons, and for every fathom of a pit perforating the quicksand will cost from L. 35 to L. 40. The place where this is most troublesome is a broad strip or belt of sand, which runs from Sandy Hills near Tollcross, towards the green of Glasgow. The pits now wrought at Wellshot, are evidently of long standing, and are said to be the oldest in the neighbourhood of Glasgow. There are upwards of 100 coal pits which have been wrought, and if we allow three years only to each of these, they must have been begun upwards of three centuries ago. In 1790 about 62 men, young and old, were employed in these collieries ; at present 100 are employed. An ordinary collier can easily dig 40 cwt., for which he then received 2s. 2d. a day, and if he wrought hard 13s. a week. At present, a collier can make 3.s. 6d. or 4s. a day, or at the rate of from L. 1, to L. 1, 4s. a week. The wages of colliers and other incidental expenses were then estimated at L. 2000 per annum ; they may now be estimated at L. 2500.* In 1790, about 600 carts, or 360 tons were put out per week, and 18,000 tons per annum. At present, the output is nearly 550 per week, or 30,000 per annum. In 1750, a cart of coals of nine cwt. cost 9d. on the coal hill ; in 1790, they cost 2s. ; and at present 2s. lid. A cart of coals from Well- shot, weighing 20 cwt. is now laid down at the village of Kirkhill for 7s. 4d. The driving is Is. 6d., tolls3d., and cost at the hill 5s. 7d. Ironstone abounds in various places in the parish, but is only wrought on a small scale. Lime is not found here, but is brought chiefly from lime-kilns in the parish of Kilbride, where it costs from^ 12s. to 16s. per chalder. The stratum of marble already noticed^^ from 6 to 18 inches thick, is known to extend over a great portion o0 the parish, and to run into Rutherglen, in the direction of Stonelaw— • The Duke of Hiunilton's rental is L. 4()0, or a seventh of the output. The pro ^ fit on the sales is not included. CAMBUSLANO. 423 like the other strata of the district, it dips towards Clyde : and wherever coal pits have been sunk, it has been found at the depth of from 180 to 200 feet. At such a depth, it cannot easily be come at; but there is a place on the Kirk-bum, to the south-west of the church, where it has been wrought at several times. It is of a dark gray» or more rarely of a reddish-colour, and is beauti- inOy ornamented with white bivalve shells. Both varieties take ft good polish, and are occasionally used for ornamental purposes. Of this marble there is a handsome mantel piece at Ghatelherault QOir Hamilton, and in the College library at Glasgow; and at Dud- dnigstone, near Queensferry, it has been still more amply made ^ ot There is abundance of freestone on the Kirk-burn, near the ■Httse. It is of a whitish colour, hard and close-grained, and con- sequently capable of being made very smooth and beautiful. It ^ held in high estimation, and is often carried to a great distance. At Brenshaw, a little to the east, a red sandstone of a different tex- ^^) and of a much coarser grain, is much used in building. This *«en» to be the outcrop of a new or upper red sandstone, which coYers so large a portion of the middle ward of Lanarkshire, and ^^ntly lies on the top of the usual coal measures. Below this wndstone, there are two seams of coal, each about 10 inches thick, ^d from 6 to 10 feet separated, lying in a thick bed of fire clay, ^nnected with it, is the 20 feet bed of white argillaceous sand- stone, which is the uppermost of our coal measures. It is gene- '^ly intersected horizontally with layers of slate clay. Dechmont (the rampart of protection or of peace,) and Tumlaw are entire- V composed of whin, and furnish abundance of excellent mate- ^^ for making roads. On the east side of Dechmont, is a quarry ^f excellent blue metal, from which upwards of 2000 cubic yards ^ cut annually. It is of a hard grain, and of a rough prickly ^^ture, and is interspersed with veins of quartz. Some of these ^ of various colours, such as red, blue, violet, and are often got >o large pieces. The whin here, as at Shotls and New Monkland, ^^ently overlaps the freestone. It seems to cover not more than ^m 300 to 400 acres. The soil upon and around the hill is %ht and stony ; that of the rest of the parish is mostly clay, on ^ tilly subsoil. Along the banks of the Cly4e it is partly a light ^^^^ and partly a light sand. The general succession of strata throughout the whole of this district is argillaceous freestone, ^hiatus, including slate-clay, and bituminous shale, ironstone. 424 LANARKSHIRE. and coal, among which there is no small disorder, in arrangement, position, and qualities. Zooloffy. — Of the hawk tribe the following are occasionally observ* ed. Falco peregrinus^ peregrine falcon ; Falco Tinnunculus, kestril ; Falco j/EsaloUy merlin; Gyrfalco candicans, seen at Dechmont, lOth May 1835. Circus cyaneus ; Buteo vulffarisy buzzard ; Buteo Nisus, sparrow-hawk. The long horn -owl, the short horn-owl, the barn-owl, and the ivy-owl, also occur. Moiacilla boaruloy or grey wagtail is fre- quently seen in the summer season, and builds on the shelves of rocks near the water-courses. A bittern {Ardea stellaris) was late- ly shot in this neighbourhood, and is now in the possession of Mr Grimson, Hamilton. No species of woodpecker was ever observed in this district till within these few months, when two specimens of the great spotted woodpecker, Pictis major^ were shot, and both preserved by the individual above alluded to. The squirrel, which was formerly a stranger in these parts, has of late become common throughout all the wooded districts of Clydesdale. These altera- tions in the habitats of animals may probably be owing to increase of plantations, and the superior cultivation of the soil Among the Mollusca, the following may be given as a specimen : Arion ater, Pupa pygmaea, Limax cinereus and agrestis, Carychium minimum, Helix ericetorum, Balea perversa, H. rufescens, Clausilia perversa, H. nemoralis, Limnea palustris, H. nitida, L. fossaria, H. rotundata, L. limosa, H. cosUta, Physa fontinalis, H. arbustorum, Planorbis albus, Bultmus obscunis, P. nitidus, Vitrina pellucida, P. complanatus. Pupa muscorum, Valvata piscinalis. The Hydra viridis or green polype is very common in many of the streams and stagnant ditches in this neighbourhood. The best way of procuring them is to pull some aquatic plants growing be- neath the surface of the stream or ditch where they are produced, and to place them in a basin of pure water, when this curious zoo- phyte will soon become apparent It is of the size of a pin's head, and has the faculty of withdrawing itself from the vegetable surface to which it is attached by its tentacula or roots, and either moving or swimming about among the plants and in the water. They catch their prey with their arms, which they expand or contract at pleasure, and are invested with the power of voluntary motion. Botany. — The Chara vulgaris is common in the Clyde at Bogle's-hole ford, and at Kenmuir. The Chara Jlexilis or smooth CAMBUSLANG. 425 chara is also found in the same places. The Calitriche aquation variety |3, occurs near Carmyle. The Ciraea Lutetiana abounds in the woods. The Veronica scvtellata is found in bogs at Kenmuir, immediately on the confines of the parish. The following may also be mentioned as interesting to botanists : Aira aqimtica, near Gil- bertfield Castle; Aira caryophylleaj Dechmont; Sherardia arvensis^ plentiful; Galium MoUugoj on the Clyde; Alchemilla minora variety ft Dechmont; Campanula laiifolia ; Scutellaria minor ; Althcea vio$chata ; Carex hirta ; Taxus baccata, at Flemington. The Sqidsetum syhaticum grows on the road side between Hamilton uid Cambuslang, and the E. hyemale at Carmyle ford. II. — Civil History. The hbtory of this barony and parish can be traced as far back «s the time of Alexander XL During his reign it belonged to Wal- ^ Olifard, the justiciary of Lothian, and it afterwards passed into Ae hands of the Morays of Bothwell. In 1370 the Castle of Both- ^eU, and also the barony of Drumsharg or Drumsargart, came into Repossession of Archibald the Grim, Earl of Douglas, by his mar- riage with Johanna, daughter of Sir Thomas Moray of Bothwell. The Douglases continued in possession of the property till 8th November 1452, when it was disponed by James Earl of Douglas ^ James Lord Hamilton. In 1455, on the forfeiture of the Dou- glases, Lord Hamilton acquired the superiority of the barony also, ^) obtaining a charter from James 11. as tenant in capite ; and it ^ remained with his descendants ever since. In the seventeenth ^ntury the name of the barony (which includes nearly two-thirds ^^ the parish) was changed from Drumsargart to Cambuslang. The " Cambuslang Work^ — The parish of Cambuslang has long been celebrated for the religious impressions which were produced under the ministry of the Rev. Mr M*Culloch in 1742. Party spirit and selfish motives have each exhausted fteir ingenuity in giving a gloss to these transactions, and in bend- ^^ them so as to suit their own peculiar views and purposes. Keeping clear of the heterodox fury of secession incredulity on ^ one hand, and of the too ready credence of zealous and inte- ''^sted though well-meaning partizans on the other, our object ^^ be n^erely to give a statistical view o{ factsy and to leave the '^er to draw his own conclusions. The religious phenomena, ^Qimonly called the " Cambuslang work," seems to have originated ^ circuDLstances apparently accidental. The kirk of Cambuslang •^ingtoo small and out of repair (as is too often the case in the pre^ 426 LANARKSHIRE. sent day,) the minister in favourable weather frequently conduct- ed the public devotional services of the parish in the open fields. The place chosen was peculiarly well adapted for the purpose. It is a green brae on the east side of a deep ravine near the church, scooped out by nature in the form of an amphitheatre. At present it is sprinkled over with broom, furze, and sloe-bushes, and two aged thorns in twin embrace are seen growing side by side near the borders of the meandering rivulet which murmurs below. In this retired and romantic spot Mr M*Culloch,* for about a year before the ^^ work" began, preached to crowded congregations, and on the Sabbath evenings after sermon, detailed to the listening multitudes, the astonishing effects produced by the ministrations of Mr White- field in England and America, and urged with great energy the doc- trines of regeneration and newness of life. The effects of his zeal soon began to evidence themselves in a striking manner among the multitudes who waited on his ministry. Towards the end of January 1742, two persons, Ingram More, a shoemaker, and Robert Bow- man, a weaver, went through the parish, and got about ninety heads of families to subscribe a petition, which was presented to the minister, desiring that he would give them a weekly lecture. This request was immediately complied with, and Thursday was fixed upon as the most convenient day of the week for that purpose. These meetings were crowded with multitudes of hearers, and at length from weekly were extended to daily exhortations, which were carried on without interruption for seven or eight months. Many people came to the minister's house imder strong convictions of sin^ calling themselves " enemies to God, despisers of precious Christ," and staying " what shall we do to be saved ?" The first prominent symptoms of the extraordinary effects produced by these multiplied services were on the 8th February. Soon after, the sacrament was given twice in the space of five weeks; on 11th July and on 16th August. Mr Whitefield had arrived from England in June, and many of the most popular preachers of the day hastened to join him at Cambuslang, such as Messrs Willison of Dundee, Webster of * Mr M'CulIoch, much and justly as he was esteemed by his own parishioners, was never a popular preacher in the district in which he resided. So much was this the case, that up to the time of the Revival at Cambuslang, when assisting at nd^i- bouring communions, he was usually called " the Ale Minister," the meaning of which was, that his appearance in the tent was considered by the great majority as the sig- nal for their retiring for a refreshment. He is said to have been most diligent and faithful in catechising his parishioners of all ages, and evinced and often expres- sed great uneasiness, when any of them betrayed ignorance of the doctrines oi the gospel. All bore witness, that while he was severe in manners and of a warm temper, he was a man of a noble generous nature. CAMBU8LANG. 427 £dinbui^h, M^Koight of Irvine, M'Laurin of Glasgow, Currie of Kinglassie, Bonner of Torphichen, Robe of Kilsyth, &c. The sicniment on the 15th August was very numerously attended. One tent was placed at the lower extremity of the amphitheatre above alluded to, near the joining of the two rivulets ; and here the sacrament was administered. A second tent was erected 10 the churchyard, and a third in a green field a little to the vest of the first tent. Each of these were attended with great coQgregations, and it has been estimated that not less than 9(^000 people attended on that occasion. Four ministers preach- ed on the fast day, 4 on Saturday, 14 or 15 on Sunday, and 5 on Monday. There were 25 tables, about 120 at each, in all 3000 commuoicants. Many of these came from Glasgow, about 200 ^^om Edinburgh, as many from Kilmarnock, and from Irvine and Stewarton, and also some from England and Ireland. The Cam- buslang work continued for six months, from 8th February to I5th August 1742. The number of persons converted at this period cannot be ascertained. Mr M'Culloch, in a letter to Mr Bobe, dated 30th April 1751, rates them at 400, of which num- ber 70 were inhabitants of Cambuslang. The 18th of February, ^e day on which this extraordinary work began, was, long after, observed in the parish partly as a day of humiliation and fasting for "^i^wimprovement of mercies, and partly as a day of thanksgiving for tbe season of grace to many in the British colonies, and particular- »y in this small comer in 1741 and 1742.* The secession clergy, ^no had lately broken off from the church, viewed these transac- tions in a very unfavourable light, and evidently with a malignant . When the present venerable and learned incumbent of Cambuslang entered on *^ charge of the parish, a number of the converts of 1742 still lived, and gave evi- *'*ce, by the piety and consistency of their conduct, of the reality of the saving change rj^bad been wrought on their hearts. So late as July 1818, the writer of this note *i^*^ an aged clergyman of a neighbouring parish allude in the church of Cambus- ^j& 00 a Monday after a communion, to the revival in the following terms : lie 7*^ been speaking of the time and place in which God had been plciised to afford jA^^^Kirdinary manifestations of His power and grace in the conversion of sinners, and p Comforting and strenthening his people, and he added, " Such was Bethel to the ^triarcb Jacob, Tabor to the three disciples, and such was this place about seventy-six ^^nago, of whom I am told some witnesses remain to this present hour, but the ^^^ter part are lallen asleep.** If any one is still so bold as to allege that the work ^Cambuslang was " a work of the Devil," he will find no countenance from the serious ijt of the inhabitants of the district in which it took place. No one ever attempt- ]~^ to justify every thing that was said or done at that memorable period; but, on the r^W hand, it is hoped that the warmth of party spirit will no longer prevent good ^*o from admitting what even the correspondent of Mr Wishart of Edinburgh was ^^^tttrained to acknowledge in regard to the revival in New England at that time, ^t an appearance so much out of the ordinary way, and so unaccountable to pcr- ^^ not acquainted with the history of the world, was the means of awakening the *^Untion of many, and that a good nunilier settled into a truly Christian temper." 428 LANARKSHIRE. eye. Observing something superhuman in the effects which were here produced, they did not attribute them to the right source, the spirit of God, but to the Devil. These sentiments they openly avowed by industriously preaching and writing against the Cambus- lang work; and especially by an act dated Dumfermline, 15th July 1742, appointing the 4th of August following to be observed in all their congregations, as a day of fasting and humiliation ; one of the principal grounds of which was ^' the delusions of Satan, attending the present awful work upon the bodies of men, going on at Cam- buslang." Many scores of pamphlets were written on this subject, all of which have long ago fallen into oblivion.* Eminent Men, — Lieutenant William Hamilton, the author of a metrical version of the life of Sir William Wallace, lived many years, first at Gilbertfield and then at Leterick, in this parish, • For the sake of those who may be anxious to study more minutely this deeply interesting portion of Scottish church history, I subjoin a list of tracts and bodes relating to the work at Kilsyth and Carabuslang, in J 742. 1. Robe*s Narratire of the extraordinary work at Kilsyth and Canibuslang, (written in parts) 1742; 2. A short Account of the wonderful conversions at Kilsyth, 1742 ; 3. A abort NarratiTe of the extraordinary work at Cambuslang, 1742; 4. A true Account of the wonderful conversions at Cambuslang, 1742 ; 5. A warning against the ministration of George Whitefield, 1742; 6. iMr Adam Gib catechised, in a letter, &c 1742; 7. A Con. ference between an elder of the kirk of Shotts and a parishioner of Cambuslang, 1742 ; 8. Fisher's review of Robe*s preface, 1742 ; 9. Webster's Divine influence, &g. 1742; 10. Satan's ape detected, &c. 174*2; 11. Satan's advocate driven from the bench, 1742 ; 12. A warm and serious Address, 1742 ; 13. A warning and reproof by the same author, 1742; 14 A friendly caution to the Seceders, 1742 ; 15. The Declara- tion of the true Presbyterians, (by Wilson,) 1742 ; 16. A Letter to Mr Wishart on the state of religion, &c. 1742; 17. The stale of religion in New England, R. Foulis, 1742; 18. Caldwell's trials of the spirit, &c. ditto, 1742; 19. The wonderful narradve of the French prophets, 1742; 2(). Edwards's Distinguishing marks prefaced by Wil- lison, 1742; 2l. The Glasgow weekly history by M»Culloch, 1742; 22. Edwards'^ narrative, &c. London, 1738; 23. Kobe's first letter, 1742; 24. Do. second letter, 1743; 25. Do. third letter, 1743; 26. Do. fourth letter, 1743;27. Erskine's fraud and falsehood, &c. 1743 ; 28. Truth and innocency vindicated, in a letter to Robe, 1743; 29. Willison's letter to Fisher, 1743; 30. Kennedy on conversion, — prefoce to the Dutch edition of Robe's narrative, 1743 ; 31. Currie's new test and vindication, &c. 1743; 32. Fisher's review, second edition with a preface, &c. 1743 ; 33. Currie's plain history of the seceding brethren, 1744 ; M. Faith no fancy, against Robe's fourth letter by Ralph Erskine, 1745; 35. Robe's monthly history, 1743-4; 36. Ditto, new series, 1745; 37. Burt's narrative of the revival, &c. 1768; 38. Tlie signs of the times by Dr John Erskine, 1742 ; ^9. A letter from Webster to Ralph Erskine, 1743 ; 40. An account of some remarkable events at Cambuslang, 1742 ; 41. A warn- ing against the spreading contagion broken out, from A. Gib, 1742; 42. Act of the As- sociate Synod anent a fast, 1742; 43. Brown's history of the secession, sixth edition, 1791 ; 44. Robe's narrative, &c. with additions, 1791 ; 45. Prince's weekly history published at Boston, 1743 ; 46. Mather's letters on state of religion in New England, 1743 ; 47. Visible signs of the Lord's return to Scotland, 1742 ; 48. Observations in defence of the work at Cambuslang, 1742; 49. Remarks on the fast, 1742; 50. Re- marks on the state of religion in New England, 1742; 51. A true narrative of the ton versions at Cambuslang, 1742; 52. Gillies's exhortations, 1751; 53. Life of Whitefield, 8vo, 1773; .54. Historical collections, 2 vols. 8vo. 1754; 55. Meek's (Aatistical account of Cambuslang, 1793; 5(). Moncrieff's life of Erskine, 1818 ; 57- A short narrative of the extraordinary work at Cambuslang, 1742 ; 68. An apology for the Presbyterians of Scotland, who are hearers of the Rev. George Whitefield* 1742. CAMBUSLANG. 429 where he died 24th May 1751, at an advanced age. He is well Jcnown as the friend and poetical correspondent of Allan Ramsay. Or Claudius Buchannan, celebrated for his Asiatic researches, was also a native of this parish. His father was schoolmaster of Cambuslang, and was appointed session-clerk 1761. During his time, the school fees were raised from a merk Scots per quarter, to Is. 6d. for reading, and 2s. for writing and arithmetic The Rev. Robert Fleming, the author of " Scripture Truth con- firmed and cleared," was for many years minister of Cambus- lang. He was the son of Mr James Fleming, long minister at Ba- thans or Yester, and after undergoing many trials and persecu- ^ons, and residing for some time at Rotterdam, was finally called to fiU the charge at Cambuslang, where he died July 25th 1694. *fis works are now chiefly remarkable for having foretold, with great Curacy, the revplutions which occurred in Europe and America ^^'^ards the close of the last century. George Jardine, Esq. the late ®*cellent and laborious Professor of Logic in the University of Glas- S^^y had his summer residence at Hallside, in this parish, where "C Was universally beloved and admired. ^^id'Oumers, — The chief land-owners are, the Duke of Hamil- ^^y Mr Graham of Westburn, Sir James Montgomery of Stan- •^^^Pe, Mr Jackson of Spittalhill, Mr Jardine of Hallside, Mr Bain ^' Morriston, and Mr M*Ewen, Calder Grove. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, at present, con- **st of twenty volumes ; some of these are small, and twelve of them . ^'^ in a dilapidated condition. Some older ones were destroyed "J ^ fire about 1724, and a few have got into private hands, but ^^y yet be recovered. The oldest date in the registers of prp- ^*^^ations and baptisms is June 14th 1657. From this date they "*^^ been regularly kept. -Antiquities. — About a mile east from the church, there is a ^j^^ll ridge, terminated, on the west, by a circular mound level on . ^ top, about 20 feet in height, and 140 feet in diameter. It ^ Evidently a work of art, and resembles those artificial mounds ®" ^hich the ancient Britons and Saxons built their fortresses. It ''^^ here that the Castle of Drumsargard formerly stood. Drum-^ ^crd or Drum^searg^aird in Gaelic, signifies the dry ridge or ^^§ht ; a name descriptive either of the particular spot where the ^^tle stood, or of a long ridge, at a little distance from it. The ^*^Uation was doubtless well chosen for a place of security in dis- ^M^rly times; and though only about sixty or seventy feet higher *«^ the adjacent ground, the prospect from it must always havo 430 LANARKSHIRE. been extensive and commanding, but it is now highly rich and beauti- ful. About sixty years ago, there were some remains of this ancient castle ; but now no vestige of it is to be seen. The stones of it were employed in building the farm houses called Hallside, from its standing in the neighbourhood of the great hall. The te- nant in possession of it, at the time that the last Statistical Re- port was written, dug from its ruins many carts of stones, some of which were hewn, and had iron crooks in them, upon which doors had been hung. Amongst the rubbish, human bones have been found, once a pewter plate, and on many occasions ancient coins, of which the dates or reigns of the sovereigns to whom they be- longed have not been ascertained. On the summit of Dechmont- hill, there are still some faint traces of the foundations of ancient buildings, and in one place the Urtica urens or common nettle grows in abundance, which is seldom or never found except in the vicinity of human habitations. The ruins of these buildings were considerable about fifty years ago; but since that time, the stones and rubbish have been removed for making dikes and repairing roads. A former possessor, when digging on the sununit of the hill, discovered the foundation of a circular building, about 24 feet in diameter. The stones had been carefully joined to- gether, but no signs of mortar could be observed. They were freestones ; and must have been carried with much labour from a distance, as the stones, which are found in great abundance upon the hill, are all whin. Dechmont stands in the centre of the Rutherglen and Catbkin tumuli, and was the place where our forefathers lighted their bel- tane fires. A thick stratum of charcoal has been discovered, which had lain concealed from time immemorial under a stratum of fine loam, near the summit of the hill. When the country people saw it, they expressed no surprise, because the tradition was familiar to them, that it was here where the former inhabitants of the country had been in the habit of lighting their beltane. The Lady Chapel of Kirkburn, formerly stood on the ravine a little below the church. It was founded and endowed in 1379, by William Monypenny, rector of Cambuslang. Lands were purchased for this purpose from William Dalyell, out of the estate of east Farme of Ruther- glen, at an annual rent of six merks Sterling. The whole was ra- tified by a charter of Robert XL, dated 8th December 1379. This chapel was held by Sir John Millar at the time of the Reformation, who reported its value at seven merks yearly. The land still bears the name of Chapel ; but no traces of the ancient buildings remain. CAMBUSLANG. 431 There was also an hospital two miles east from the church, to ipv^hich about IdO acres of land called Spittal and Spittalhill, seem to have been annexed ; but all traces of it are now lost ex- pt the name. Gilbertfield is a turreted building, erected in 607. It is now the property of John Graham, Esq. An elegant and commodious new house has been lately erected by ir James Montgomery at Newton ; and a handsome mansion has Iso been built by Mr M^Ewen, from Glasgow, at Calder Grove, Prior Bridge. The other mansion-houses in the parish are ieasant and commodious, but exhibit nothing remarkable. IIL — Population. The state of the population for the last eighty years is as follows : Average Increase, flfff. Pertotts* 984 1096 Malet, Femalet. HoutCM. Families. ofFamlies. ^c. -:775, 547 549 238 4J nearly increase 62 -785, 1088 529 559 236 4f do. decrease 8 '791, 1288 657 631 280 4^ exactly increase 100 "796, 1558 787 171 do. 270 ^1, 1616 do. 58 «07, 1870 do. 254 m, 2035 do. 165 ^ 815, 2045 do. 10 821, 2301 1122 1179 364 do. a56 ^1, 2697 1331 1367 369 525 ^TT do. 396 L835, 2705 do. 108 1787 The average increase for the last eighty years is rather more han 34 per annum. The following table was drawn up for private use, by Mr Hall, present parochial teacher. ■^ S t «• jj e 1 1 1^ Ek< 1 §1 DIatrieis. 114 104 :§ Rural diftricts, 4 DaHon, • 10 6 Ligfatbum, 22 14 Deans, 8 6 HowieshUl, 18 10 1 Vicarlandy 25 15 Kirkhill, 43 27 Sauchiebog, &e. 32 22 Chapelton, &c. 69 41 BusbybiU, 72 40 1 Cullocbburn, 29 14 SiWerbank, 30 21 4 East Coats, 26 20 2 West Coats, 32 29 ■§» 51 6 53 ^1 1« |.§ I i I 58 27 29 356 875 731 5 5 22 26 48 17 5 58 61 119 4 4 28 21 49 1 10 2 34 28 62 1 21 3 61 59 120 2 32 9 106 118 224 22 10 67 58 125 1 52 16 142 167 809 I 33 38 193 185 378 I 17 11 78 68 146 2 28 75 69 144 3 23 48 60 108 4 28 62 72 134 Toul, 525 369 12 65 249 211 1830 1367 2697 432 LANARKSHIRE. In 179], when the total population was 1288, more than one- half, viz. 677, resided in villages, and 611 in the country. At present, 1966 live in villages, and 731 in the country. There are employed in coal pits, 100; in the quarries, 8. The increase of 396 between 1821 and 1831, is chiefly owing to the proximity of the parish to Glasgow, and to the large proportion of persons em- ployed in manufactures and coal-pits, most of whom marry early, and generally rear large families. There are about 500 weavers, including females. There are 65 names on the roll of electors, 44 of whom voted at last election for Mr Maxwell, the Whig can- didate ; 5 for Mr Lockhart, the Tory candidate ; and 5 did not come to the polL A register of births and proclamations, and also a register of burials has been kept with great accuracy. The following is the gross amount of each, with the average number for the last seven years: Proclamations. J 829, - 29 1830, - SO 1831, - 23 1832, - 26 1833, - 27 1834, - 24 1835, - 30 Births, Deaths. 66 43 57 34 71 61 68 81 67 51 79 49 70 47 Total, 189 478 366 Average, 27 68;^ 52;^ There thus appears to be one baptism per annum to 39 persons nearly, one burial to 51, and one marriage to 99. The propor- tion of marriages here is very great; in England it is 120, and in Wales 136. There are 253 children for 100 marriages, which makes about 2^ children for each marriage. Hence every 20 have about 50 children. Perhaps four-tenths do not marry, which will make a proportional increase in the number of children born of each marriage. In 1791, when last report was drawn up, the po- pulation was 1288; in 1836 it is 2705, which is 129 more than doubled. The births between 1720 and 1728 inclusive were 123, which, if taken at the same ratio as at present, would give a popu- lation of only 693. The following tables contain a classified ar- rangement of the inhabitants in 1791 and 1836, from authentic sources : 1791. 1836. Aged below 10, - ^37 615 Between 10 and 20, - 240 464 3 CAMBUSLANG. 433 Do. 20 and ^, . 517 1247 Do. 50 and 70, - 154 289 Above 70, . . 40 90 Total, TSe 2705 The number of families of independent fortune residing occa- sionally or permanently in the parish is about 5. There are about 7 fatuous persons and 2 blind. Place9. m 1^ ilii ll <3 B If 1" % S5 ss ^^ ^ 1 «sl el ^s^ ^^ Rural districts^ 187 40 2 73 22 8 7 22 7 6 84 DaltoD, 10 1 5 4 1 Uglitbum, 27 20 7 1 Dnns, 10 6 3 1 Howieahill, 14 1 1 9 1 1 1 Vicarland, 26 1 20 1 1 1 3 1 KirkhiU, 46 3 31 3 2 4 3 3 Sauchiebog, - 35 27 2 1 I 4 2 Chapelton, 73 1 59 8 4 1 5 BushyhiU, 82 I 24 22 31 3 1 Cullochburii, . 32 2 13 4 10 3 1 SilTerbank, . 33 1 I 29 2 I £. Coats, 29 3 22 4 1 W. Coats, 34 7 2 22 3 2 Total, 638 41 4 80 243 55 13 160 35 7 101 Of the 80 labourers in agriculture, 27 are sons of occupiers of the first class. The four occupiers are such as employ neither sons nor male servants. The cotton-mill at Flemington, mentioned in last Statistical Report, has been long given up, and is now used as a bam. IV. — Industry. - Agriculture. — The property of the parish is distributed among 13 heritors, and is laid out nearly in the following allotments : Estates, CambuslaDg estate, Westburn, Newton, - ' - Spitui, Moriston, Roaebank, Daviesboliii, Hallside. Crookedshields, Calder Grore, Chapel, Letterick, Do. - . The above is an estimate which will not bear a critical investi- Acrea^ Valued rent. Real rent. about Scots mom ty- about 3507 L.2087 1» L.4000 800 623 5 1600 361 263 700 203 133 6 8 500 50 68 246 60 43 240 50 38 8 8 246 60 23 13 3 240 25 19 80 20 10 14 6 40 5 10 10 12 4 9 8 3 6 7 434 LANARKSHIRE. gation, but it will afford a pretty accurate idea of the ayerage va- lue and distribution of property in the parish. About 200 acres are taken up with waste grounds, roads, braes, and plantings. There is very little waste or uncultivated land. The average va- lue of the land per acre is from L. 1, 5s. to L. 1, 10s. ; in 1791, it was 15s. Some acres towards Dechmont and Carmunnock are not worth so much ; but about Hallside and towards the Clyde, L. 8 and L. 4 are paid for the acre. There are about 41 fiurmers in the parish at present; in 1791, the number was 50; of course the farms must now be much larger. If we take the amount of arable land at 4125 acres, the average size of farms will be 108 acres. Nearly the whole of the land is arable, and is well cultivated. All the ordinary kinds of grain are produced in great abundance. The number of acres of the different kinds of produce, with the average value of each, at the time last report was drawn up and at the pre- sent day, is subjoined : Produce^ 8fc. in 1791. Acres, Produce Price per Scots. per acre. Total voJmt. Oats, - 950 5 bolls. L.0 15 L.d562 10 Wheat, - 180 8 do. 1 1440 Pease and beans, 190 4 do. 16 608 Barley, - 160 5 do. 16 610 Poiatoes, - 70 20 do. 9 6 655 Hay, . .. 400 132 stone 5 Oper stone 1100 Pasture, - 1720 12s. 6d. per acre 1075 FaUow, . IdO Total, 3800 L.9060 10 Produce^ Sfc. in 1836. Statute Produce per Price per acres. acre. boll, 4-c. Total value. Oats, - 1000 7 bolls L. 16 L 5600 Wheat, - 300 10 do. I 2 3300 Pease and beans, 250 7 do. 16 1400 Barley, - 15 7 do. 1 105 Potatoes, - 140 30 do. 9 6 945 Hay, - 610 150 stone 7 2664 11 8 Pasture, - 1800 L. 1, 10s. per acre. 2650 Fallow, - 10 8 Total, 4125 L.1G664 U The above is a very moderate average. The gross produce of coal and minerals in the parish may be worth L. 3200 more. It is observable that the produce has much increased during the last forty-five years, which is chiefly owing to improved management. Wheat is chiefly sown on the rich levql fields bordering on the Clyde. It is raised on all soils ; but the clayey, which is the most common, is found to answer best, because the crop suffers least by CAMBUSLANG. 435 the frosty nights and sunshine days in the spring. The practice of summer fallowing for wheat is less common than it formerly was. The expense of preparing and sowing an acre of land in summer fallow for wheat, in 1791 and in I8369 supposing every article to he paid for in money, is nearly as follows. Cost 1791. Cost 1836. ^ploughiogs. L.0 8 L.2 L.0 8 L.2 45 carts dung, 2 6 5 12 6 5 11 5 4 ehalders lime. 10 2 12 2 8 i boll seed wheat, « yens rent. 1 10 1 2 11 15 1 10 2 4 Total L. 11 12 6 L.20 4 Cambuslang is about five miles from Glasgow. The tolls for dung ^ 4Jd. The expense of ploughing and harrowing an acre for oats '^ L 1, Is. ; and two ploughings and harrpwings for potatoes cost -L*. 2. Wilkie's iron plough is now almost universally used. It cuts ^ more acute-angled furrow than Small's plough ; and differs from '^ chiefly in having the sock covered over by the mould board, and thus is less subject to wear and tear, and is more easily repaired. ^ ^Wo horse plough weighs about 1 cwt. 3 qrs. The cost from '^^ to L. 8, 8s. The ploughs were mostly of wood frame work *^®fore 1810; after that period, they were all of iron — and in 1829, ^^t-iron socks were introduced, and are a vast improvement. It ^s V>een observed that agriculture never rises to perfection in a ^I'ely agricultural country. It requires the stimulus and support Manufactures and foreign trade. This remark is well illustrat- . ^U the agricultural districts which surround Glasgow. It is upon ^ ^hat the neighbouring parishes chiefly depend. Glasgow is the ^^ket where they sell every thing they can spare, and purchase *^3.tever they want. Nearly all the wheat, except what is pre- ^^Ved for seed, a third of the potatoes, and a great part of the ^^ry produce, are sold in Glasgow. Live-Stock, — The number of horses in the parish is about 200, all * which, with a few exceptions, are employed in the cultivation of ^nd. There would thus appear to be one horse for 26 acres at an ^^erage ; but if the i800 acres of pasture land be excluded, there is ^Ue for 11 or 12 acres. The horses are nearly all of the Clydes- Uale breed, and are generally purchased at the fairs at Rutherglen ^nd Glasgow. There are 600 cows in the parish, of which 300 ^re milk cows ; and about three acres appear to be the average calculation for each cow ; but if we add to these 300 sheep and the grass depastured by horses, it will diminish the amount of land al- lowed to each cow to a considerable extent. 436 LANARKSHIRE. Dairy produce, — The yearly average profit of milk cows in 1791 was L. 3) at present it is nearer L. 9, and taking the number of dairy cows kept at 300, the average ptofit from this source alone will be L. 2700. The farmers find it more advantageous to make their milk into butter than into cheese ; of which last they make no more than is sufficient for the supply of their own families. Almost all the butter and churned milk they can spare is sold in Glasgow. The cows are nearly all of the improved Ayrshire breed. A good cow will yield 4000 quarts of milk per annum ; but take the average amount at 3000 quarts, and we will have from 300 cows 900,000 quarts. About 16 quarts produce one pound of butter, and of course 900,000 quarts will yield 56875 pounds, which at Is. per pound will amount to L. 2843, 15s. The pint of butter milk, containing two quarts, is sold at a penny, and of course 900,000 will yield L. 1375. This, however, is only a gross calculation, and does not pretend to be minutely accurate. The real gross amount is pro- bably much higher. The keep of a cow may on an average be L. 10, 10s. per annum, and the grassing of 300 cows will be L.900. The profit arising from the difi*erent modes of conducting the dairy produce may be estimated as follows : 160 quarts churned* 10 lb. butter at Is. 160 quarts of butter milk at ^d. - 160 quality new- milk cheese. 1 60 quarts, butter ^ skimmed cheese. 24 lb. at r>d. lOs. 120 quarts whey, worth 2d. per gal- 6s. 8d. Ion, - 10s. 101b. butter at Is. . 10s. I stone cheese at 5s. . 5s. Is. 3d. 1 2 quarts but- ter milk at ^d. , 6d. 100 quarts weak whey at Id. per gal. 6fd. 160 quaria fxding. veal. A veal 20 days old will have consumed 160 quarts at 8d. per diem, price L.I at 3d. per pint Scots^ Calf will sell at L. I, ]6s. deducts milk L. I. Pro6t 165. Total, 16s. 8d. lis. 3d. 16s. O^d. 16s. In 1791, the parish was in the hands of about 50 farmers; at present, there are only about 41. The rentals in 1791 and in 183^ stand as follows : In 1791- In 1836. 1 farmer pays, L.600 2 pay above, 100 10 pay L. 50 and upwards, 50 19 pay L. 20 and upwards, 20 18 pay less than 20 1 farm worth, L.400 3 do. 30O 8 do. 200 Odo. 150 9 do. 100 1 do. 60 1 do. 35 2 do. 20 1 do. 12 I do. 10 1 do. 9 Total L.5666 CAMBUSLANO. 437 About L. 1300 per annum is paid, or is in the hands of proprie- tors, small fanners, and feuars. The leases are generally for nineteen years, and the farm-stead- ings are in some instances very respectable. The following table will exhibit the relative state of the country, in respect of prices, &c at three different periods — 1750, 1791, and 1836. 1750. J79r. 1636. Rent of the parish, L. 1000 L.2850 L. 7897 Wheat, ryegrass, bay and potatoes. €60 acres 660 acres Fat cattle killed for common lue, 100 head 160 head Beef and mutton per stone, 2b 6d. to 3s. 5s. to 7s. 8s. to 8s. 6d. Butter per lb. 3d. to4d. (id. to Is. Is. to Is :fd. Cheeae per lb. Id. to 2d. SdtoOd. 6d. Eggaper dozen. «• id. to 2d. 6d. to lOd. 6d.to8d. Oatmeal per holl. 1 is. Sd. 168. 8d. 188. 8d. Ditto per peek. 8fd« Is. O^d. Is. 2d. Dnmgbt horse. L.6 to L. 10 L. 16 to L. 26 L. 26 to L. 30 A milk cow. L. 2 to L. 4 L. 6 to L. 9 L. 6 to L. 10 Aabeep, 3s to 6s. 9s. to 18s. lis. to L. 1 A hen. • fUL toOd Is to 28. lOd. to Is. 6d. Man-servants' wages, L. 3 to L.4 L. 8 to L. 10 L. 7 to L. 9 Maid servanto' wages. L. 1, lOs. toL. 2 L. 4 to L. 6 L. 3 to L. 6 Day labourers* wages per day. fid. to 7d. Is. 2d. to Is. 4d. Is. 6d. to 2s. A man in harvest per day, 8d; Is. 6d. 2s. to 2s. 6d. 6d. Is. Is. 6d. to 2s. A mason per day. 8d. to lOd. Is. 8d. to 28. 28. 6d. to 3s. 6d. A Wright per day. 7d. to 9d. Is. 6d. tols.8d. 26. 6d. to 3s. A tailor per day besides meat. 4d. lOd. to Is. Is. 6d. The lands towards the Clyde and near gentlemen's houses are tastefully adorned with plantations. The Cairns planting presents a number of very fine beeches; and the ravines, through which the Calder and the Kirk-bum run, are beautifully sprinkled over with wood of different sorts. Manufactures, — The weaving of muslin was introduced about the year 1783. The work is chiefly derived from the manufac- turers in Glasgow. In 1791, there were 120 weavers. They could easily earn 10s. a week, and the total gross income from this branch of industry, including the labour of journeymen and appren- tices, ¥ras estimated at L. 2800 per annum. At present, a good weaver with difficulty earns 10s. per week, and the general average is probably not more than 8s. The number of weavers, includ- ing females, who also work at the loom like men, is 500. They will earn about L. 200 per week, or nearly L. 10,000 per annum, which is at the rate of L. 20 per annum on an average to each individuaL No cotton work now exists in the parish. V. — Parochial Economy. Meant of Communication^ Sfc. — The nearest market*town is Rutherglen, which is about two miles distant. There are seven LANARK. F f 438 LANARKSHIRE. fairs in the year at Rutherglen. The best frequented and pro- bably the most ancient is St Luke's. It begins on the third Monday of October, old style, and continues the whole week. Glasgow is about 4^ miles distant. Its market-day (Wednes- day,) and its fairs and other markets are always well attended by people from this parish. Hamilton is about 6^ miles south- east. The market-day is Friday. There are thirteen villages, (having distinct names,) inhabited by 1966 individuals, leav- ing only 731 for the rural districts. Two turnpike roads run through the parish. The Glasgow and Hamilton road within the parish is 3^ miles. The Glasgow and Miiirkirk road by Fishes- coat is 2^. The parish roads are about iSjniles. The rents paid at the two following toll-bars, which are now the only ones where toll is levied, was during the last and present year as follows : Greenleesin 1635, L.425; in 1836, L.375. Cambuslangin 1835, L. 575 ; in 1836, L. 525. Two coaches run daily between Glasgow and Hamilton by the Cambuslang road ; and Kilbryde and Strath- aven coaches pass and repass thrice c^week on the Muirkirk road. There is a penny-post in the village near the church. There are 7 bridges in the parish, all of one arch, and some of them very small. The fences are in general well kept, and the Duke of Hamilton has of late introduced great improvements over the whole of his estates. There are two corn-mills, one on the Calder in the south, and another on the Clyde in the north. Each of these is capable of grinding 50 or 60 bolls a day. In winter and spring, the mill on the Clyde is chiefly employed by the fanners in the neighbourhood, and in summer and autunm by the dealers in foreign grain, in and about Glasgow. In some seasons, 2000 bolls of foreign oats have been milled here, and in every season above 1000. Here thirlage still continues. Ecclesiastical State, — The church is a plain antiquated edifice, built in 1743. It is now in a somewhat dilapidated state. The south wall is considerably pushed out by the rafters, the couples of the roof having bent beneath the baulk. It allows accommodation for 500 sitters, allowing 18 inches to each. The area contains 329 sittings; the galleries, 113; the communion or table seats, 40. The rest are set aside for women who come to church with children for baptism, including some cross seats at the head of the communion tables. The manse was built in 1756. The walls and roof were repaired last spring. The glebe contains about 4^ acres, and would let for about L. ] 0. The stipend in 3 CAMBUSLANG. 439 1755 was L. 71, 16s. 8(1 ; in 1798» it was L. 145, 9s. lOd. At pre- sent it consists of 121 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 pecks, 2^ lippies of meal ; barley the same; surrendered teind or money, L. 49, 8s. lOd. To which must be added Duchess Anne Hamilton's bounty for communion elements of 50 merks, or L. 2, 15s* 6d. Commu- nion elements, L. 10. There is a small congregration belong- ing to the missionaries or Congregational Union. The church was built about 1802. It is situated in the village of Chapel- ton Cambuslang, and is capable of containing 200 sitters. The average number attending public worship is below 50. There are about 20 communicants, all of the poor or working-classes. The minister has about L^ 30 per annum. The parish church stands considerably to the north-west side of the parish. It is about 1 mile and 4 furlongs from the border of Carmunnock on the west, and the eastern corner is 3^ miles distant. Eighteen inhabited houses are farther than two miles from the church, l^e relative number of churchmen and dissenters is as follows: Ettablisbment, - • 2016 Working-classes, establishment, 192R Other denominations, - 562 Do. dissenters, - 51 1 Of no denomination, - 127 2439 2705 Poor of no denomination, - 127 More wealthy, establishment, - 88 Do. dissenters, • 51 2705 The number of communicants at the Established Church is 245, of whom 186 are of the poor or working-classes. The |ive- rage attendance in June, July, and August is 400 ; in December, January, and February 300. About 848 say they are in the ha- bit of attendance, of whom 697 are of the poor or working-classes. There are in the parish about 1008 persons twelve years of age and upwards, belonging to the Establishment ; and 281 of the same ages belonging to dissenters or persons of other persuasions. The accommodation in the church is 500 sittings, and if the po- pulation twelve years and upwards be 1008^ about 508 must be with- out seats ; and if 848 be in the habit of occasionally attending public worship in the parish church there must be 348 who cannot attend every day for want of seats. But if 848 could be accommodated, there would still be 150 twelve years of age and upwards without accommodation. The number of persons belonging to other per- suasions scarcely amounts to one-fifth of the population ; and those twelve years and upwards are scarcely one-tenth. About one twenty-third part of those belonging to the Establishment are 440 LANARKSHIRE. of the wealthy classes, among those of other denomiDations one- eleventh part. Those belonging to no denomination fonn up- wards of a twentieth part of the whole population. The propor- tion of the poor or working-classes who worship in the parish church is at least twice greater than among the other denomina- tions. Education, — Besides the parish school, there are also schools at Lightburn, Bushyhill, and Silverbank. The parish school has for many years past been in a very flourishing condition under Mr Hall. The salary is the maximum, with a good house and gar- den. Through the liberality of the heritors a considerable addi- tion is now makkig to the school-room, and also to the dwelling- house above it. The following tables will give an interesting view of the state of education in this parish. Parochial SchooL Greatest ntimher. Least number. Males. Females, Total. Males. Females. To/aL Scholars of each sex between 25th March, and 29th September 1833. 63 44 107 58 37 95 Do. do. from 29th September, to25thMarch I8a%d4. 56 36 92 50 34 84 The branches taught are English reading, English grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, Latin, geography and French. The average attendance is 95, and the fees amount to about L.40. It would appear that the average number of boys more than girls in the summer season is 19, and in the winter season 18. Schoob not Parochial. Greatest number. l.east number. Male*. Females. Total. Males. Females. ToiaL Ligbtburn school, 28 19 47 30 15 45 Bushyhill do. 14 lO 24 10 10 20 Do. two schools no returns. Silverbank no returns. The following table will give an idea of the ages of pupils, and of the branches of education taught in the private schools. LiglUbum. Bushyhill \st. Bushyhill 2d. SUverbank. M. F. Total M. F. Total M. F. Total M. F. Total Under 5, I 1 II 5 to 15 reading, 29 11 40 9 6 15 8 11 19 4 4 8 5 to 15 writing, and arithmetic, 10 5 15 1 1 20222 I 3 The average number of children attending the above schools is 82, and if we add 95 for the parish school, the total number of scholars in the parish will be 1 77. If the number of children below twelve years of age be 1352, only one-seventh attend schoql. There are 615 children below ten, of whom 350 will be below five, leav- GAMBUSLANG. 441 iog 265 capable of attending school ; and admitting that 177 do so, there must be 83 who are not receiving regular public instruc- tion at any of the schools in the parish. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are in this parish several mortifications for the support of the poor. In 1615, James Mar- quis of Hamilton, in conjunction with Mr John Howison, minister of Cambuslang, mortified a sum of money, the yearly interest of which was directed to be employed for maintaining in an hospital in Hamilton eight poor men, two of whom were always to belong to the parish of Cambuslang. Gabriel Hamilton of Westburn, in 1700, mortified 600 merks, the interest of which was to be laid out in buying shoes and hose to the indigent. James Glassford, Esq. of the family of Douglaston, mortified L. 100, in 1828, the interest of which amounts to L. 2, 10s. for providing clothing to poor child- ren attending school, and to the more necessitous and better be- having poor. There is an annual collection for coals, which amounts to about L. 3, and Mr Farie, tacksman of the Duke of Hamilton's colliery, usually furnishes twenty-four carts annually at bis own expense. The number of poor upon the ordinary poors^ roll is 58^ including widows, 15 of whom have families, perhaps about 100 persons in^lL The regular contributions are L. 100 in six months, or L. 200 per annum, which is at the rate of L.3, 10s. each per annum, or if 100 in all be dependent on these funds, it will be L. 2 each. Only one twenty-seyenth of the population are paupers, and the greater por- tion of these are rendered incapable of earning a livelihood from debility or old age. The collection at the church door, for the •ast five years, was as follows: In 1830, L.31, lis. 8id.; 1831, L- 28, 16s. 9Jd.; 1833, L. 23, 8s. 0|d.; 1834, L.25, 16s. 5d.; 1^5, L.25, 14s. 2d. Total L. 135, 9s. l^d. Average, L. 23, *^ Od. The sum of L. 23, Is. 9d. per annum will average 218 "^^^fpennies every Sunday; and if 450 be the average attendance, ®^fcely one-half of those who attend put any thing into the plate. * ne average amount to those who contribute regularly will not ex- ^®^d 2s. per annum. y\\e mortcloth dues for the last six years during summer and ^nter were as follows : Autumn and Winter. Sp'ing and Sumnwr 18d0 L.3 3 L.2 10 1831 4 11 r> 4 11) G 1832 4 10 R 1 14 3 1833 3 110 2 14 2 442 LANABK8HIBE. 1834 L. 2 L,2U 6 1836 3 4 1110 Total L. 22 9 8 L. 16 5 Average L.3 14 11 L. 2 13 4 It is observable that the secoDd half year exceeds the first by L. 1, Is. 7d. ; the total amount of the whole year is L. 6, 7s. 5d. The average number of deaths is nearly 52; this will give as the ave- rage price of each mortcloth for rich and poor 2s. 5dw The ex- cess of L. I9 Is. 7d. on the latter half of the year, will give fully eight more deaths for that half than for the former half. There are in the parish about 28 public houses where ardent spirits are sold. Miscellaneous Obseryations. This and the neighbouring parishes depend in a great measure on Glasgow ; which is the great mart to which the inhabitants re- sort, both for buying and selling. The improvements in Glasgow, and the great increase of its population, have extended in a considera- ble degree to the districts around. An increasing demand for the articles which land produces, a ready market, and favourable, though not extravagant prices, give life and vigour to the exertions of the farmer. Growing wealth has created new wants, and the habits of the people and their means of subsistence have been gra- dually improving. The rental of the parish has been more than doubled since the publication of last report, and the gross amount of raw produce has also undergone a proportional increase. The population is more than doubled, and seems to be still on the in- crease. June 1836. PARISH OF DALZIEL. 'R£SBTT£RT OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JAMES CLASON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. -^ame and Extent. — The parish of Dalziel is situated in the ^Odie ward of Lanarkshire, 13 miles from Glasgow, 14 from La* <^^i"lc, and 1 from the town of Hamilton. It is bounded on the ®^st by the parish of Cambusnethan ; on the west by the parish of Kajnilton and the river Calder ; on the south by the parish of Ha- ^i^ilton and the river Clyde ; and on the north by the river Calder ^there are few springs of water near the surface. Those which have been discovered, ^ave therefore been much valued, and in Popish times were ho- noured with the name of saints, such as St Patrick's, St Margaret's, ^t Catharine's, and the well of Our Lady. Some of these wells have been seriously injured by the draining of quarries near them, ^d one by a similar operation in regard to land has, to thereat pief of those in the neighbourhood, been entirely destroyed. This ^ell was of a mineral and supposed medicinal quality, and was con- sidered by those who knew its value to be superior to every other, 'or the infusion of tea, and was therefore called the Tea-well, l^ose who had been in the practice of using it for that purpose think ^"Cy have not got that beverage in perfection since it was dried up. Geo/o^y and Mineralogy, — This parish lies near the centre of "le great upper coal-field of the Clyde, and, in a geological and ^^^eralogical point of view, presents nearly the same features as ^ rest of the district At the Roman camp, on the banks of the ^'yde, the rocks are from 12 to 20 feet high, and are composed ^^i^ost entirely of clay-slate and bituminous shale, with a sort of shivery freestone above it, which separates readily into very thin plates. The clay-slate is very friable, and falls down in large mas- ^ when acted on by the alternations of frost and thaw. In the ^^dst of the frees(ione, is a regular layer of flag or pavement, two 446 LANARKSHIRE. or three inches in thickness, which runs along the face of the rocks at a considerable height; and at one place, above a small^wdl op- posite the Ross wood, these stones crop out to the day, in a po* sition so regular, and are so smooth and well polished, and neatly and regularly jointed, that they more resemble a woriL of art than of nature. Some of the freestone connected with the coal mea- sures of this parish is different, in so far as we are aware, from that of any other district in the county. At the Windmill-hill quarry, at present wrought in two places, a very hard rough-grained freestone, abounding with unequal grains of quartz, much resem- bling the Arenarius molaris of Linnaeus, is much sought after by masons, for forming chimney heads, and also by the proprietors of iron forges, for pavement, &c. it having been ascertained to be unequalled for standing both the weather and the fire. It was of this strong and durable stone that the bridge near Hamilton was built. Near the village of Craigneuk, there is an excellent flag- stone quarry. These stones are of a fine grain, and of a reddish co- lour, and are from one-fourth of an inch to five inches in thickness. They are frequently used in the neighbourhood instead of slate, for the purpose of covering houses. The projected Wishaw and Coltness Railway is to pass near these quarries, and it has been ascertained, that, from the estates of Dalziel, Wishaw, and Coltness, 1600 tons of stones of different sorts may be sent to Glasgow annually, which at 7d. per ton for carriage, would yield the proprietors 1^466, Ids. 4d. The pavement required for gen- tlemen's seats which have been lately built in different parts of the county has been obtained from the Craigneuk quarry. Coal abounds in this parish, but it is only wrought at No. 1 or Engine Pit, near Coursington. At the depth of 10 fathoms from the surface, we have the upper or rough coal, which is here 6 feet thick. Above this coal, there are five feet of surface, and the rest is blaes, (clay-slate, and bituminous shale,) intermixed with small beds of ironstone each 1^ or 2 inches thick. At the depth of 14 fathoms from the rough coal, the £11 coal occurs. It is here 4 feet in thickness, and is that now wrought The main roof is rock, and the pavement a scurf of fine clay on solid rock. Fourteen fathoms farther down is the splint coal, but it has not yet been wrought in this parish. Above the coal, is a foot of blaes, and below it five feet of fine clay. The coal from this pit is often marked on its surface with the remains of various species of reeds, and with small DALZIEL. 447 le^iTes, resembliDg chickweed, which gives it a chequered appear- mjt\^come very scarce. The cunningar belonging to Dalziel still ^t^os its ancient name. The coneys or rabbits, which .occupied ^^^a^ spot, have been long ago extirpated, and the field levelled, ^d regularly cultivated. A number of these animals have, how- ^^^r, lately made their appearance in this quarter, report says, in- troduced by sportsmen for the purpose of furnishing food for the *^Xes. The cunningar is now on the opposite side of the Clyde, though still in the parish, from which it seems to have been cut ^^ at no very remote period, by the river assuming a new channel ^d leaving the old one nearly dry, — now termed the dead waters. *^e haughs of Dalziel are famous for the number and the excel- *^nce of the hares which they produce. The Ccqmmulffus EurojxBus or goatsucker is common in the ^oods. The Lanius excubitor or common shrike is also occasion - *"y observed. The Turdus iliacus and Tardus pilaris or redwing ^^d fieldfare thrushes, were observed this season to be absent little ^<>re than three months, a flock having been seen in the begin- ^^ of May, and again in the beginning of August. The Frin- 9^tpinus or siskin is very common, also Par us caudatus or long- ^led titmouse. There was, till within these twelve years, an ex- ^Osive rookery contiguous to Dalziel House ; but by cutting the ^tch fir trees, (to which crows are partial) driving down their ^^ts and other means, they were completely expelled. In i)as- ^^^ the spot from which they had been driven vi et armis, they 448 LANARKSHIRE. • were observed afterwards, to give a mournful and angry cry, and to make a sudden deviation from their coarse, turning away with seeming disgust, from a place where they had been so hardly treated. Ardea stellaris or bittern, one shot here lately. The following are the only fish found in the Clyde and Calder, 1. Petromyzonfluviatilis or river lamprey, here called lamper-eel. We should doubt its going down regularly to the sea, as it has many obstacles to encounter, which seem to be too great for it to overcome, yet it is by no means rare in these waters. 2. Salmo Salar or common salmon. 3. Salmo trutta or sea trout, very rare. 4. Salmo SalvelintiSj torgoch or char. This fish was taken, upwards of a century ago, from an alpine lake by Anne Duchess of Hamilton, and naturalized in the Pamilian and Avon near Strathaven, from which it occasionally descends to the Clyde. It is here termed Duchess Anne's trout 5. Salmo fario or common trout, abundant. 6. Esox Lticiusy or common pike, abundant in still water. 7. Leucis- CU8 rutilus or roach, but there generally tengned braize^ — ^is rather a rare fish, and is chiefly caught in May. It is supposed by some that it comes into the Clyde from Lochlomond, when the general migration occurs, about the beginning of summer; but as there are obstacles in the Clyde which prevent larger fish from getting up here, we cannot see how so small a fish could overcome these difficulties. 8. Leuciscus phoxinus or minnow, very common. 9. Cobiiis barbatula, loach or beardy, more common on the rocky bed of the Avon than in the Clyde. It lies basking in the sun at the bottom of rivers, and readily suffers itself to be taken by what the boys term a sned, i. e. two or three horse hairs plaited to- gether, and fastened to the end of a wand, in the form of a loop, which is slipped over the fish's head and suddenly drawn up ; vast quantities are thus destroyed, but are not eaten. 10. Platessa Flesusy flounder. It is most common below the dam at Blantyre, but has also been occasionally found here. 11. AnguiUa vulgaris^- or common eel, very abundant. 12. Perea fluviaiilis or perch, occasionally found here. The par also conmion. Botany. — The following is a list of the different plants : Circea LutetianOi enchanter's nightshade ; Veronica montana^ mountain speedwell ; Phalaris CariariensiSf canary grass ; Milium effusum, millet grass ; Galium bareale, broad-leaved bed-straw ; Symphytum officinale, common comfrey ; Ca'mpanula trachelium, at Dalziel House, but now extirpated ; Epilobium angustifolium, rose-bay DALZIEL. 449 Willow herb ; TroUiu$ Europceusy globe flower ; Serapiaa latifolia^ broad4eaved helleborine, &c. IL — Civil History. larnUy ofDalzelL — The Dalzells, the ancestors of the Earl of Carnwatby are the most remote proprietors of whom any thing is known. The precise time when they acquired the barony of Dal- ziel, which was sometimes possessed by one member of the fami- ly^ and at other times shared by two or more t)f them, has not been ascertained. If the origin and meaning of their name, as given io heraldry, be correct, it is not improbable, that a grant of the lands of Dalziel may have formed a part of the reward, be- stowed by King Kenneth, for the rescue of the body of his kins- nuui, — ^which will fix the date of their possession to have been ui the ninth century. The earliest certain information we have '^pecting the family is in the thirteenth century. From this ^te, the Dalzells seem to have been knighted, either by royal au- thority or by courtesy. In 1365, Sir Robert Dalzell, who faithfully ^hered to King David Bruce during his captivity in England, Stained a grant of the barony of Selkirk. But it appears he afterwards incurred the displeasure of his sovereign. William Hamilton, Esq. of Wishaw, who wrote an account of the sherifif- ^^m of Lanark in 1702, and whose authority as an antiquarian is ^'^questionable, states that the parish and barony did anciently be- ^og to the Dalzells of that ilk, until the forfeiture of Sir Ro- "^it Dalzell, in the time of King David Bruce, for abiding in ^''Jgland without the King's consent. The estate was then given to ^^'' Sandilands, (others say the name was Fleming.)* By the ^friage of his grandchild to the heir-male of Sir Robert Dal- ^'1> the estate returned to the family, and continued in their sole P^^^session, until the death of a proprietor leaving two daughters. iQe eldest married the nearest heir of the family ; and the young- ^t> a son of the Laird of West Nisbet To distinguish the lat- ^^ from the former, he was commonly called Baron Nisbet of Dal- ^^"> and his share of the property, Dalzell Nisbet, The spot ^here his house stood is still pointed out, and the adjoining orchard 'Stains the name of the Baron's Yaird. In 1628, Sir Robert Dal- ^W having been made Lord Dalzell by Charles I. he purchased iK>ni Baron Nisbet his share of the estate. The burying-place ^^ the family seems to have been in the east end of the area of t"e old church. Upon a grave-stone found there, which the late * There is a place in the parish still called Flemingtor. 450 LAPTAtlKSHlRE. proprietor removed) (Isuppose, forks greater preservation,) to the burying-ground of the present family, there is the following in- scription : " Here lyis James Dalyell, Mearchant Bviger Edr, law- ful sone to mnql. Thomas Daylell, wch. Thomas wes lawful sone to the Right Honl. umql. William Dalyell of the ilk, procreat be- twix him and his Lady Gelis Hamilton, lawful daughter to the Laird Preston, wch. James depairt tys lyf, at the place of Dal- yell, the 8th of March 1608, being of the age of 78 yeiris.** This stone seems to have bc'en prepared with care ; the lettering is good, and the armorial bearings of the family are, a man suspended from a gibbet cut upon it Several members of the family have sig^ nalized themselves, and are specified in different charters and in military records. Sir William Dalzell, the person mentioned on the grave-stone, is described in heraldry as a gallant and hu- morous knight, who lost an eye at the battle of Otterboume in the year 1388. Sir Piers Courtenay having accepted a challenge im- plied by Dalzell's adoption of badges borne by Courtenay, Sir Wil- liam terminated the affair by a demand that^ as by the laws of tournament, the champions should be equal, Courtenay should have an eye extinguished before the combat. Sir Robert Dalzell, in 1508, was killed by the Lord Maxwell. Another Sir Robert warm- ly espoused the cause of Queen Mary, and was engaged on her side in the battle of Langside in 1568. For his fidelity to her interests, he obtained a charter from Francis and Mary, dated 27th August 1559, " Roberto de Dalyell eodem terrarum de Dalyell et molen- dina de Lanark ;" and he or his successor also obtained from her a grant of the patronage andteinds of this parish, — a grant, however, which, when litigated, he failed to make good. Lord Dalzell having acquired the estate o/ Carnwath from James Earl of Buchan in 1634, was in 1639 created Earl of Carnwath. In 1647 the Eari of Carnwath sold the principal part of the Dalzell estate to James Hamilton of Boggs. Johnston, a part of the barony, however, re- mained in the possession of the Dalzells till the end of the six- teenth century, when it was also purchased by Mr Hamilton, — whose descendant is still the proprietor of the estate. As the Dalzells and Hamiltons were connected by frequent intermarriages (the mother of Mr Hamilton of Boggs was a daughter of Sir Robert Dalzell), this may account for one of that family becoming the purchaser, and might also tend to his acquiring the property on more favourable terms than any other person. DALZIEL. 451 All the Hamiltons in the west, and perhaps throughout Scot^- land, are descended from the ancestors of his Grace the Duke of Hamilton. Gavin, the fourth son of Sir James Hamilton of Cad- zow, is the branch from which the Hamiltons of Dalziel have de- scended* He granted a charter in 1468 of the lands of Osbem- ston (now Orbiston,) with the consent of the chaplaiiw of Both- veil, to whom these lands had been given by the third Earl of Dou- glas when he made that church collegiate to his son Robert, Chancellor of Glasgow, whom failing, to his other sons in succes- sion. His third son, John, eventually succeeded to Orbis- ton, whose grandson, David, was the first proprietor of Bothwell- naugh, James Hamilton of Boggs, and first laird of Dalziel of that name^ was son of the fifth proprietor of Orbiston ; and his "lather, Sir John, was Lord Justice- Clerk in the reign of Charles I. '^rs failing, both in Orbiston and in Bothwellhaugh, these es- tates came to the Hamiltons of Dalziel. Archibald, the fourth ^^milton of Dalziel, also succeeded his maternal grandfather in the estate of Rosehall, and removed the entail to Dalziel. Archi- '^d was succeeded, first by his son James, and then by his son the J^te General Hamilton, who^ surviving his son Archibald James, '* succeeded by his grandson, John Glencairn Carter Hamilton, '^ho is a minor. With the lands of Bothwellhaugh, there was con- veyed to the Dalziel family the gun with which James, the second ^^''d of that property, shot the Regent Murray, and which had "^n preserved in the family, not from an approval of that foul ^eed, but merely as a relic of antiquity. It is now in the posses- ^^on of his Grace the Duke of Hamilton, having been presented ^ him by the late General Hamilton when he sold to him the ^^ds of Bothwellhaugh. Raman Road. — Tlie principal branch of the western Roman ^^hway or Watling Street, as it has been called, passed through this parish from east to west. It entered at a place called Mea- ^^whead, near Wishaw gate. The present road from Glasgow to *^nark by Carluke has been here, for a considerable way, form- ^ open it When the last Statistical Account was written, and ^'* within these twelve years, a part of it had been preserved en- ^^^ and a large heap of the cinders of the Roman forges remain- ^ untouched. All trace of it has now been effaced by recent im- P^vements. At the north-west boundary of the parish, there is ^ bridge over the river Calder, evidently of great antiquity, and 452 LANARKSHIRE. which, from time immemorial, has been called the Roman bridge, by which that people entered the parish of Bothwell. It is about 12 feet broad, and consists of an arch, high, causewayed, and without ledges. Roman Camps, — Of these there were two in this parish. One was situated on a steep bank of the Calder, near the above bridge, add about seventy years ago was pretty entire. I made, inquiry re- specting it at an old man, now in his ninety-fourth year, with his faculties in great vigour, and who all his life, till disabled, had been in the service of the proprietor. He informed me that he recollected it distinctly, and that he assisted in its demolition. The other camp was in the centre of the parish, on the top of a steep bank of the Clyde. Parts of the ditches are here still traceable, in which, when they were cleared out, as stated in the last Statistical Account, were found cinders of the Roman forg- es. To perpetuate the memory of this camp, the proprietor, about a century ago, built a summer-house with a bartizan on the top of it, cleared the banks of the furze and briers, cut a number of terrace walks along it, and wherever he fouiid a sufficiency of soil, planted forest or fruit-trees. From the bartizan on the summer-house there is an extensive view of the surrounding country, so beauti- fully diversified, as to form quite a panorama, well deserving the attention oi the landscape painter. The lofty ruins and oaks of Cadzow, — the green pastures and gaudy pinnacles of Chatelherault, — the Ross wood on the steep bank immediately opposite, — the bridge, the town, the palace, and the policy of Hamilton, — the windings of the Clyde below, and for a considerable way up and down the river, and, but for a few trees on the east and west of the house, Strathclyde, from Tinto to Benlomond, with a rich variety of hill and dale, — render the scene perhaps one of the most gratify- ing in Scotland. Sarcophoffus.'^In the foundation of the west gable of the old church, which was rebuilt in 17 J 8^ there was found a handsome stone coffin, large enough to contain the body of a full-grown man, but empty, and which is now placed against the old churchyard wall. In the inside, the upper part is hollowed out to suit the shape of the head and neck, and, when found, there was a hewn stone cover for the face, with a cinque-foil carved upon it, but which has not been preserved. The carving upon it is plain. It must have been used for some distinguished person; but for whom, is unknown. DALZIBL. 453 Urn. — In digging the foundation of the lodge for the old entry to Dalziel House, about thirty-five years ago, an urn was discover- ed containing bones, which shows that the ancient Britons inha- bited this part of the country. fJross Stones. — Of these stones (at which the barons anciently held their courts, tried, condemned, and executed criminals,) there w-eie three till lately. One of them stands near the site of Baron N^isbit's House. It is a heptagon, with a sword emblazoned on one side of it. The other two were placed where the Roman road teviated from the present one, but have been removed by recent uxiprovements. JMziel Mansion-house. — It is situated on the north side of the I^stlziel burn, and on the most picturesque part of the bank of the glen through which it runs. It was built in the year 1649, two J®H.TS after the estate was bought by Mr Hamilton of Boggs, and is * ^erj fine specimen of an old baronial residence. It is 88 feet in »tigth, and 27 in breadth. The sunk story is arched over, in wliieii ^35 formerly the kitchen and extensive cellarage. The din- ^'^^room is d2by 21 feet, and the walls are wainscoat unpainted, and nutig around with the pictures of the ancestors and connections of ^*ie family. Among others, Sir John Hamilton of Orbiston in a ^**^t of mail, James Hamilton of Boggs, and Lord Westhall, one ^^ tike Senators of the College of Justice, in his robes of office. At- *^^lied to the house is an old tower, formerly called Peel House, ''^^^liout date. It is about 50 feet high, the walls are 8 feet thick, °^ving the holes or recesses, which were used for sleeping in, and it is ^^ by 34 over walls. Only two parts of it are now used, the one as a ^'lar and passage to a modern kitchen, and the other as an upper ^^hen. In this kitchen, an iron chain suspends from the roof a ^^tre, composed of large stag horns, connected with iron, with *^^kets for the candles of the same metal. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers commence in the y^Hrl644, and except from 1744 to 1797, have been regularly kept ; ^t are not voluminous. -LanJUowners. — The land-owners are, the Right Hon. Lord Bel- ^Ven and Stenton ; John Glencairn ; Carter Hamilton, Esq. of *^ziet; Robert Stewart, Esq. of Carfin; and Thomas Mansfield, ^^countant, Edinburgh, is trustee on the unentailed lands of the *^hiel' estate. — Proprietors all above L. 50 of yearly rent UNARK. G g I 454 LANARKSHIRE. III. — Population. In \lb5, 351 1791, 478 1801, 611 1811, 758 1821, 955 1831, 1 18Q Increased since last census about 50, Number of males in 1831, 592 ; females in ditto, 568. The increase of the population for the last sixty years in this pa- rish has been chiefly owing to the improvements in the cotton and silk manufactures. Number of the population residing in villages, - - 859 in the country, - - •J36 Yearly average of births for the last seven years. - - 30 of deaths, - - - - 18 of marriages, - - - - 9 Average number of persons under 15 years, - - 475 between 15 and 30, « • - 371 30 and 50, - - 248 50 and 70, - -109 Above 70, 10 men, 13 women ; above 80, 2 women ; do 88, 2 ; do 91, 1 woman ; and above 94, 1 man. Number of unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, above 50, - 22 women, including widows, above 45, - - 50 families, - - - 242 Average number of children in each family, - . . . 4^ Number of inhabited houses, - - - - 216 uninhabited or now finishing, - - - 8 families employed in agriculture, - - - 46 persons employed in manufacture - - 205 labourers in mines, - - - - 18 persons employed in handicraft, masons, 13 ; wrights, 9 ; shoemakers, 9 ; smiths, 20 ; tailors, 6 ; retired labourers, 5 ; fatuous, 4 ; blind, 1 ; average of ille- gitimate children in the year, I. The language generally spoken is a mixture of Scotch and Eng- lish. The use of the Scotch has decreased within the last forty years, in consequence, I apprehend, of the improvement in teaching at the schools. But when persons are under excitement, the lan- guage used is Scotch. Then, the writer has observed, here and in other parts of Scotland, that the lower orders of society and many in the middling ranks, too, discover an acquaintance with that ex- pressive dialect, which could not be inferred from their ordinary conversation. The people, upon the whole, have within the last thirty years improved in cleanliness. In consequence of the de- pressed state of manufactures, they have been subjected to many privations, but they have borne them patiently. Now trade has im- proved, and since the introduction of silk-weaving, they gain bet- ter wages. A weaver generally works fourteen hours a-day,'and sometimes longer. The people in general are quiet, sober, industri- ous, and regular in their conduct No individual connected with this parish has ever been chargeable with a capital offence, and they 4 DALZIEL. 455 bafe hitherto kept free from any share in intimidation or acts of ^wriiaat. A few cases of poaching have occurred^ but not of an ag- gn^vated nature. IV, — Industry. Affrieuiiure and Rural Economy. — This parish contains 1873 ^nhle acres Scotch, of a heavy clay soil, except about i40» on the hanks of the Clyde and Calder, which are of a deep loanii or what ^ called haugh land. There are about 340 aeres planted with voodf and 70 acres in copse,-— 410 in all. The kinds of trees which oare been planted are, Scotch fir, larch, oak, ash, elm, lime and plftne tree, A3 hard wood is generally planted among the firs at ^ distance of five and six feet, and the firs from three and a-half to four feet, in thinning, the plan generally adopted is to prune the ^ for the first ten or twelve years, so as to allow the hard wood to 'i^^* After this period, the firs are cut down whenever they seem to binder the growth of the other trees, and the thinnings sold for iB^^ing fences, &c« The yearly thinnings in this way yield from 1* I9 lOs. to L. 2, 5s. per acre. The copse is cut once in twenty-six ^ twenty-eight years, and yields from L. 2 to L. 3^ 10s. per acre, OBcli year, from the time of its being cut In noticing the wood, ^ must advert to two rows of lai^ trees, planted in the form of ^ ^venue^ extending about a mile along the banks of the Clyde, which, closing together with their upper branches, present a good "P^cimen of Gothic architecture, and with the breeze from the river, ^^ri a cool and shady walk m the hottest day of summer. We ^^ not aware of any thing like it in Scotland to the same extent, ^d in such a favourable situation. We must also mention a large ^ tree, near Dalziel House, which, though it must have weather- ^ the storm of many hundred years, is still in a thriving state. Its I'^k is 21 feet in circumference, 1^ yard from the ground, and ^^ branches spread out beautifully on all sides, to a considerable dis- **^ce. This is probably one of those trees mentioned by Sir Wal- ton Scott, at which the lord of the manor used anciently to receive ^ to welcome his guests. Sent qfjjond. — The average rent of land is L* 1, 8s. per acre Scotch, but some parts are let at L. 3, 10s. and L. 4. The average 'BDt for grazing a milch cow or ox is L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, 10s. A ewe h to 7s. Od. IFaffes.^^The rate of wages for farm labourers in summer is from Ib. 3d. to Is. 6d. with victuals ; in winter from Is. to Is. 3d. ; without victuals from Is. 8d. to 2s. per day. Masons get in summer from 456 LANARKSHIRE. ds. to ds. 6d. ; in winter 2s. 6d. to 3s. ; carpenters from 2s. 6d. to ds. ; smiths charge 2s. 8d. to ds. for shoeing a horse ; other work is at 4d. and 8d. per lb. ; journeymen smiths get from 8s. to 10s. per week with victuals; shoemakers 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; tailors 2s. 6d. to 9s.; weavers' wages the same as given in the account of Hamilton. There is a small foundery for spades, shovels, &c. kept by Mr Donald, who is famed for these articles. Live-stock. — Few sheep are reared here. The cows are chiefly of the Ayrshire breed, and the farmers pay considerable attention to the management of their dairy stock, often sending to that county for a supply. The horses are of a mixed breed, and consequently few are reared. The farmers now find that they can supply them- selves at a cheaper rate at the Lanark, Glasgow, or Rutherglen markets. Husbandry. — The mode of cropping on the light land is, 1^, oats ; 2(/, green drilled crops ; Sd, wheat; 4th^ hay. On the clay soils, some take two white crops, then wheat after summer fallow, next bay, after which two or three years pasture. Some take, Ist^ oats ; 2dj beans and peas ; Sd, oats ; 4thj wheat after fallow ; 5/A, hay ; then pasture seven or eight years, and others take, \st^ beans and peas broadcast, with manure; 2^/, oats; 3df hay; 4/A, two years pasture. The latter rotation has been more extensively adopted, since wheat became so low priced. The soil is very capable of farther improvement, and stands much in need of furrow-draining, very little having yet been done here in that wav. The length of leases is generally nineteen years, which is con- sidered a suitable period. If tenants at the end of their leases, were repaid a part of the expense of permanent improvements, and for the manure of which they have not reaped the benefit, it would operate as a means of keeping the land always in good condition, which would prove beneficial both to landlord and tenant. The farm-steadings are in general old, but are pretty convenient, and are kept in tolerable order. There is a large one on the Dal- ziel farm, built about fwelve years ago, with very extensive accom- modation for farming operations, which cost L. 3000. 'The fences on some of the farms have rather been neglected of late, as, owing to the markets being so low, the tenants have been unable to hire labourers to keep them in good order. A number of the farmers have thrashing-mills. The only improvements recently made were effected by the late Archibald Hamilton, Esq. of Dalziel. He embanked the river 3 DALZIEL. 457 Clyde, planted- a great part of the waste lands, enlarged and im- proved the orchards, trenched upwards of 230 acres to different ^depths, according to the nature of the soil and subsoil, which had SL good effect both upon the crops, and in improving and deepening fthe thin soils. Produce. — Yearly value of grain of all kinds, - . L. 9700 PMatoeSy ....... 748 Tuniipa» ... . . 444 Hay, - - - - - 800 Natural hay, .... - 50 Dairy produce, .... |600 Large fruit in orchards, - - . 435 Gooaeberries and currants, ... 45 Produce of gardens in the parish, including Dalziel House garden, 200 Miscellaneous produce, - - . .100 Quarries, ..... 60 L.8162 There are 200 milch cows kept, and 52 horses for labouring the .land. The parish roads extend to 6^ miles, and are kept in good ^^er, at the yearly expense of L, 45, which is paid by the land- Jor^ tenants, keepers of horses, and such householders as are con- ^dered able to contribute. There are three bridges ; one of them !**» been recently rebuilt, and. cost L* 250, and the other two are ^ good repair. There is a mill for grinding wheat, oats, &c Orchards, — Orchards are of considerable antiquity on the Clyde. "ferlin, the poet, who wrote about the middle of the fifth century, J^lebrates Clydesdale for its fruit. The soil and climate being "^land, and consequently free from the blasting influence of mil- ^^^s and fogs, may account for its being so favourable for the ^^dtivatiou of orchards. At first, they were planted in the shape ^' gardens, attached to houses for the accommodation of the '^ident families. For two centuries or more, they have been cul- ^^y^ted as a source of profit; they chiefly prevail, and are most ex- • ^*isive and productive, on the north bank of the Clyde, having a ^Uthern exposure, though on the south bank there are also a con- *^4erable number, and some of them very fruitful. Those of Cam- ^^ethan, the property of Robert Lockhart, Esq. of Castlehill, ^d of John G. C. Hamilton, Esq. of Dalziel, are the most exten- sve, and among the most productive. The fruit in the former has some years brought L. 800, and in the latter L. 600. The orchards are in general planted on sloping banks, otherwise OQly fit for the growth of forest trees. In consequence, however, of their having been found profitable, especially during the late 458 LANAUKSHIRF. iwars, when foreign fruit was in a great measure excluded, and even that from England and Ireland was with difficulty brought to our markets, a considerable quantity of ground was planted with fruit trees, which was well adapted for any species of husbandry. In some cases, too, when a person bad an orchard, but not of suffi- cient extent to make it an object of attention to a purchaser, he has been induced to enlarge it, by planting land which, in other circumstances, would not have been so occupied. But it may be remarked, that there is no profit in planting land with fruit trees which would yield a rent of L. 2, L. 3^ or L. 4 per acre. The soil of many of the orchards is naturally a stiff clay, and the most thriv- ing trees and the finest fruit is in general to be found on the poor- est land, provided due attention has been paid to the cultivation of the orchard. In this parish, there are from forty-five to fifty acres in orchards, which in some former years produced nearly h. 900, but which can- not now be rated above half that sum, though the quantity of fruit produced may be five or six times greater. The average is now four bolls per acre, at L. 2, 10s. per boll. The value of the orchards has of late years greatly decreased. This is owing to the ease with which foreign fruit is now imported,^to the facility afforded by steam-boats for the transmission of all kinds of produce from England and Ireland, particularly the latter, — to the indifference of many with regard to the quality of the fruit used, — if not also in some degree to the decay of patriotic feeling. There is no situation on the Clyde more favourable for the cul- tivation of orchards than this parish, — very few spots, indeed, equal. The soil and subsoil and climate are suitable. Large fruit of all kinds thrives well here, which is not the case in all the orchards on the Clyde. Consequently, without any desire to disparage others, there is not better fruit to be found in any part of the district, or which is more sought after, by those who have ascertained its va- lue. This excellence, I apprehend, is greatly owing to the nature of the soil, for it is a fact well established, that all kinds of crops grown upon a clay soil, and in a favourable situation, and in a good season, are superior in flavour to those produced on other soils, whe- ther what is called dry-field or haugh-iand. The ground is more difficult to cultivate ; but when a crop has been obtained, though inferior to that of other land in quantity, it surpasses it in quality. The Horticultural Society, who have encouraged competition for the largest vegetables and fruits, ought also to test the above fact ; DALZIEL. • 459 and to do justice to the inquiry, they ought to try the fruits in all the different ways in which tliey are used. In the spring, when a cold east wind prevails, and a long drought, the caterpillar often does extensive damage to the orchards in Clydesdale; particularly to those situated in the upper ward of the county. Those in this parish are never injured by that destruc- tive insect. This perhaps is partly owing to their being sheltered from the east by rising ground, and by extensive woods, and in no small degree, I apprehend, to the nature of the soil, for it is always observed, that those orchards where the soil is light are the first attacked, and suffer most severely. Various are the expedients which have been tried to destroy this insect ; but the only effec- tual mode yet discovered for checking the ravages of the cater- pillar is regular cultivation, and carefully picking them off the bushes and trees so soon as they appear, in so far as that may be practicable. Kinds of Fruit — Gooseberries and currants are cultivated in some parts of the orchards, chiefly as an under crop, but not to a great extent, the nature of the soil here not being favourable to their growth. < The kinds of fruit chiefly propagated are apples, pears, and plumbs. These are very numerous, in regard to kinds ; some of them late and others early. To mention the names of all is unnecessary, as the same kinds have received different names in different parts of the country. The kinds propagated in greatest numbers are those which are esteemed the best in quality, or in greatest demand in the market. With a few exceptions, large baking apples are now found to be most valuable. The plumbs grown are either common, t. e. are propagated from the sucker, and are planted about two feet from the hedges, inclosing the orchards, or they are grafted ones, such as are usually grown on garden walls. There are magnums and Orleans here as standards, fifty years old, which, when planted by the writer's father, were only known in this country as wall fruit It was therefore viewed by gardeners as quite chimerical to try them as standards ; but the re- sult was so favourable, that for many years, they have been plant- ed in the same way in the Clydesdale orchards. * * The following it a list of those propagated uid approved. Early eating apples : Milford, Tom Montgomery, Early Almond, Tborl pippin, Dumbarton.— Harrcst apples : Wheeler's russet, Orange or Holland pippin, Friars' pippin, Dalsell manse oodlin, Silver Saturday, Red Colville, autumn do. — Winter eat- ing applet : Hamilton pippin, Dunside or Orbiston, Ilibston, Camnethan pippin, Liddington, Lemon pippin, Winter Holland pippin. Egg apple, &c. Baking apples ; Yorkshire green, Early and Late Fulwood, Carse of Gowrie, Norfolk beafon, Dutch 460 LANARKSHIRE. It has been justly remarked, that apples and pears, particobrly the former, after a certain time, degenerate. This has been veri- fied here, and particularly in regard to what used to be the best Scotch apple for winter eating, the grey Liddington, which, fifty years ago, were produced here in great quantities, oT great size and excellence. Mode of Planting. — Some of the old orchards, particularly on sloping banks, have been planted without much regard to regula- rity, and consequently the trees are in many places too close- to each other. But the method which has been generally adopted for nearly a century is the following : When a piece of ground is designed for an orchard, the distance between the rows is marked off*, viz. 22 feet Then a small border, about 4 feet broad, is dug deep, but not trenched, when the trees are intended to be planted, (with water runs on each side of it, and which are kept clear) and which is enlarged as they increase in size, till the intervening space is equally divided between the rows. The trees are planted as near the surface as practicable, to keep the roots up and dry. About two inches are pared off the top of the delf, where the tree is to be planted. It is then placed in the centre of that spot, the roots being carefully spread out with the hands, — and unhealthy ones, or those likely to interfere with others, being previously cut off. A person holds the tree steadily in its position, while anothei puts the earth around it, treading it with his foot After Che rooU have been sufficiently covered with earth, a quantity of dung, not too old, is placed around the tree, and which is covered with earth The use of this is to prevent the drought from injuring the roots, to keep them moist ; and when rain falls, it acts most ^favourablj towards the growth of the plant. The trees are planted from 18 to 22 feet wide in the row. Whei the latter distance is adopted, early bearers, or gooseberries, arc planted between those trees which are intended to stand, anc which are taken out as they expand. A decided preference is giv- en to plants of one year's growth, provided the graft be well sprung: those older than two years are not approved of. If of one year, the tree is cut over the first year it is planted, but if of two, it is not done oodtin, Early and winter strawberry, RcdcIuRter. — Early pears : Crawford, Green peai of Pinkie, Green chisel, I^y Lemon — Harvest pears : Brown beyry, Fair maid ol Taunton, Early Aucheu, Grey honey, Autumn bergamot. &c. — Winter pears : Auchen, Moorfowl egg, Winter bergamot — Grafted plum^ : Magnum bonum, Orleans, green l^age, Red imperial. Precox de Tour.— Common plumbs : Burnet, Wliitcorn, Horse- jag. Common damson, &c. These are a few of the best kinds, and best bearers There are probably 200 different kinds. Bad sometimes bear when others fiiit DALZIEL. 461 • dl the second. The use of cutting is to make the roots strike, sod the tree branch out The young trees are protected from the Ivres, sometimes by placing broom around them ; but now most generally, by smearing them with a mixture of lime and cow dung, or by covering them with a straw rope, which is taken off during randiner. Trees of all ages are grafted if healthy, when they ha?e turned out bad kinds, bad bearers, or not in repute ; and the graft is pot betweeA the bark and the wood. When the branch on which die g;rafl is put is a thick one, one is put on each side of it, and the one irhich has thriven best, is preserved^ while the other is taken away, unless it be likely to grow in a preferable direction.* There is no anxiety felt here, to have what is called a handsome ^^ee, having*a tall stem, before being allowed to branch out. The PC^t object is to have one that will bear a great quantity of fruit. ^e trunk is seldom above three feet from the ground, sometimes l^sa. And another advantage resulting from this is, that the wind ^ Qot so apt to overturn the tree, and to blow down the fruit. In ^^posed situations, the young tree is sometimes kept in its position y toeans of a straw rope attached to a stob or two. There is ^le of the fruit on walls, except on houses, and in Dalziel garden. ^Qaequently, it is not generally so large, but the quantity is great* ^9 and is considered superior in quality. The age to which a tree grows, depends on the*soil,]th'e quality ^j the stock on which the graft has been put, and the regular cul- ^'^tion given. Many of the apple trees in the orchards here are ;^ years old, pears much older. When an old tree dies out, care ^ ^en to plant one of a different kind from the former, t. e. to P^^ a pear where an apple has been, and an apple in the place of '^Pear. The principal orchards on the estate of Dalziel were P*^nted by the great-grandfather of the present proprietor, who ^'^ quite an enthusiast in growing trees of all kinds, and who ^^Id not endure to see any of them cut down or destroyed. -f^tuninff. — Care is taken, while the tree is young, to train the ^'^^ches, so as to make them spread out on all sides, to cut off ^^>8e which are likely to encroach on others, and as much as pos- ^^le to keep the tree open in the heart. From the older ones, rot- ^U branches are lopped off, and also those which are hurting others, ^hich, if suffered to remain, tend to injure the tree.- From the peat number of the trees, however, and the time required in do- * At the wind is apt to break the graft (when the branch is a thick, one,) a piece ^ Kiek is fixed to the branch with boss or mat-straw, to which the graft is slightly •ttaehed. 462 LANARKSHIRE. ing it, this operation is not so regularly attended to as it ought to be. When a branch is taken off, either with the knife or with die saw, it is cut close to the trunk ; if large, it is cut in sections, and the wound is carefully smoothed over with the knife, and the bark around it, and then rubbed with a little earth. In the course of a few years, if the tree is not old, the bark covers the wound, so that it becomes imperceptible. Dr Lyon's plad of taking-off the out- er bark was tried by the late Mr Hamilton to a considerable ex- tent ; but, except in the case of canker, it has not been productive of any advantage. The trees are pruned during the winter or spring, when the weather is fresh. In a few instances, this has been done in June and July, when the tree has not been under crop, and has been found to answer well. Cultivation. — Strangers, in observing the prices obtained' for fruit upon the Clyde, are apt to conclude that the whole is profit. But it holds with regard to fruit, as well as every other kind of crop, that unless due care be bestowed in cultivating the orchard, no return can be expected. Forest trees grow without cultivation, but not fruit ones, except in some rich holms, where straggling ones have been planted, by way of ornamenting a gentleman's policy. Orchards if neglected in regard to culture soon die out, and any fruit they produce is small and destitute of flavour. Lime is found of great service, especially so here, where the soil is a strong clay, and seems to have the same effect that it has in regard to other crops. When the orchard is large the ground is taken in rotation. Po- tatoes are planted occasionally while the trees are young, or when the ground requires to be cleaned. The rotation of crops usually followed is, Jirst^ potatoes or tares ; second^ barley or tares; thirdf hay; seldom more than one crop of hay is taken, under wise management, and it is generally cut before the seed ripens. When laid down with hay, a quantity of dung is put to the roots, near the trunk, when it can be obtained, — which, when the ground is a slop- ing bank, is laid chiefly on the upper side of the tree. In regard to manuring, the same rule is followed as in regard to other land designed for crop.* Mode of selling, — The fruit is, with few exceptions, sold by auc- tion to the highest offerer, on producing bill and caution to the satisfaction of the exposer and judge ; or he is allowed a reasonable deduction for ready money. Should any dispute arise in connec- • The common rate for digging is fourpence per fall. DALZIEL. 463 wkh the iale» it is settled by the judge, whose decision is final and binding on all concerned* The fruit is sold, some time in the month of August, sooner or later, according to the season. A few days previous to the sale, the intending purchasers inspect the MvhaidB, in order to ascertain the kinds and the quantity, and, after a little experience^ are able to estimate them with astonish* ing aecuracy. The purchaser is allowed housing for keeping his tnii, end a place for preparing his victuals and lodging the watch- man oC his fruit; he is also furnished with hay for his horse, and strvw for packing his fruit, or receives a deduction for that pur- pose; a few potatoes and a cart or two of coals are also sometimes given him. After sale, the purchaser has the fruit entirely at his own risk. The disposer generally reserves in the articles of roup not portieiilar trees, but such a quantity of fruit, and of such kinds as he ittay require for family use. The fruit, about a century ago, were taken down by a pei&n shakmg the tree, and others gathering them up ; but for many yearsi in so frtr as practicable, they have been pulled and handled with great care. When carried to market, they are packed in hampers and baskets of different sizes, which are placed on an open cart without sides, (not upon springs) with straw put under them. Tbiey are dien firmly roped together and to the cart, and sre covered with straw, and with a mat such as is used by carriers. The principal market for fruit is Glasgow. The merchant starts for that place generally about 12 p. m. to be in time for the mar- ket, which opens at 5 o'clock a. m., sometimes earlier. He also disposes of many in the towns and villages around. Occasionally, in harvest, he visits Edinburgh ; but most frequently when the wmter commences. The fruit was, till lately, sold and reckoned by the sleek and boll. A sleek is of the size of a 20 pint cask, and 20 sleeks make a boll, — a sleek of apples consists of 40 lbs., of pears 60 do., and of plumbs 60 do. Since the alteration of the measures, they have been sold by the bushel, which is equal to one sleek one forpit The fiikit-merchants are generally home wood merchants or in- dustrious labourers who have realized some means. The occupa- tioD is a laborious one, but it is of short duration, and one of which they are peculiarly fond. If once they have engaged in it, diey seldom reliqquish the employment, however much they may be otherwise occupied. An old man died lately, who had been more than seventy years in the trade, who, though he never moved 464 LANARKSHIRE. from his house during the rest of the year, seemed to revive when the time of purchasing the fruit came round, and discovered an enthusiasm and activity which astonished all who saw him. V. — Parochiai/ Economy. Means of Communication. — Hamilton is the nearest market-town to this parish, where there is a post-office and weekly market There are two runners from that place, who pass and repass through the parish daily, the one to the post-office in Holytown, and the other to Wishawtown. A coach to Edinburgh from Hamilton runs through this parish, three times a-week. The road from Glasgow to Lanark by Carluke is, in this parish, about four miles in length, and that from Hamilton to Edinburgh is about one. Ecclesiastical State and History, — The church at Dalziel, with its tithes and other property, was granted to the abbots and monks of Paisley, in the twelfth century, and was dedicated to St PatricL It was confirmed to them by the Bishops of Glasgow, Jocelin and Florence, by a bull of Pope Innocent in 1209, and by one of his successors. Pope Honorius. It was afterwards given to the Dean and Chapter of Glasgow, and continued in their possession till the Reformation. The revenue consisted of 10 merks, and 60 bolls of oatmeal yearly. The cure was served by a vicar probationer, who had a settled allowance out of the revenue. The remainder was shared by ten vicars, serving -for the canons in the choir of the cathedral of Glasgow. The stipend to the vicar serving the cure must consequently have been very small.* After the Reformation, the patronage and tithes of this parish ^ere given by Queen Mary to the College of Glasgow. It ap- pears, however, that the Crown in these days was not scrupulous in making granta of the same subject to different parties. Sir Ro- bert Dalzell had also obtained from this Queen, a grant of the patronage and tithes. The consequence was, as I have found from papers in the library of the college, a long litigation between those * This accounts for an awkward mistake into which the incumbent fell, upon one occasion, as traditionally recorded in the parish. Owing to the meagre endowment allowed him, he was under the necessity of bettering his circumstances by having re- course to secular employment, and the occupation he followed was the very humble one of making skuii$, i. e, open baskets witli a handle on each side, made of unpeeled wands ; of these he made one daily. But it unfortunately happened on one occasion that he was found making one of his baskets upon the Sabbath. Persons expressed their astonishment to find him so occupied on such a day ; but he would not believe that it was the Sabbath till he counted his skulls, when he discovered his misdemea- nour. This circumstance gave rise to a proverb, formerly more prevalent in the pa- rish and district than now, when a person expressed doubts, or appeared ignorant with regard to the number of any articles in his possession, " count your skulls.*' DALZIEL. 465 parties before the Court of Session. The result was, that the right of the college was found preferable, and decreet was given accord- ingly in their favour, dated 19th June 1581. They got and con- tinued in possession, till the beginning of the seventeenth cen- tury, as appears from inhibitions at their instance, against the heritors, from a process of augmentation raised against them and Sir Robert Dalziel, as tacksman of teinds, by the minister, and from Mr Hamilton's account of the sheriflfdom of Lanark in 1702. How it passed out of their hands I have been unable to ascertain. The Hamiltons of Dalziel have been long patrons and titulars of the parish. The old church of Dalziel was a plain Gothic building, having the font for holy water, and the gorgets attached to it, used in punishing civil and ecclesiastical offenders, and was considered to be contemporary with the cathedral of Glasgow. It was takeh down in the year 1798, and the stones used in building an addition to the old manse. This is deeply to be regretted, as the walls were found to be so strong, that the mason declared he would sooner have quarried the stones than taken them down. It might have been retained as a monument of antiquity, and used as a burying- place. The present church was built in the year 1789, is most conveniently situated, and affords accommodation to 370 persons. It is in the form of a cross, having only one gallery above the aisle, w front of the pulpit ; but two additional ones are about to be erect- ed, which will increase the number of sittings to 514. The seats *fe all unlet, and are allocated among the heritors, tenants, and feuars. • I'he present manse was built in 1827, and is a most suitable ^Q convenient one. The old manse, which was taken down in the lollowing year, originally consisted of only a room and kitchen, "Ut had several additions afterwards made to it. The glebe con- sists of 7 acres of good land ; nearly 5^ acres are in orchard ; and *»*e average yearly value of the whole is L. 60; stipend, L. 150 P®r annum, consists of 47 bolls, 1 firlot, 2| pecks, oatmeaf; 7 bolls, Church mueic, — This was, about fifty*five years ago, in a very low state in this pa- ^°|pe- ^^^tnber 1829, is 17 chalders of victual, one-half meal, one-half "^riey, with L. 10 for communion elements ; localled stipend, 125 ^Us, 3 firlots, 2 pecks, 2 J lippies oatmeal ; 28 bolls, 3 firlots, 1 P^ck, 7 lippies, barley, with L. 121, 15s. 9id. in money. ^60 fiunilies attend the EstabUshed Church. About 120 fami- **^s are Dissenters or Seceders. ^Education, — There are five schools in the parish, three of them **^ the village of Stonehouse, and two in the village of Sandford; at- **Oded by about 300 scholars, or about \ of the whole population of ^® parish. Four of these schools have no salary attached to them ; *Wo of them are what are called subscription schools, and the mas- ^^ have only a free school-room ; rent is paid for the school-rooms ^^ the other two. The parochial scholmaster's salary is about L. 28 P^ annum. His fees may amount to L. 30 per annum, and he has *"Out L, 13 a-year besides, from other sources. ^airs. — There are 3 fairs held in the village in the year, ^Wch are styled the Martinmas, May, and July fairs, the dues of ^Mch belong to Mr Lockhart of Castlehill. These fairs are prin- ^'P^Uy for black cattle and wool, and are generally well attended. foor* — The poor on the list are generally between 20 and ^> and are maintained partly by the collections made at the ^Wchdoor, and partly by a regular assessment laid upon the parish; Ae one-half paid by the heritors according to their several valua- tions, and the other half by the tenants according to their respective rents, and householders according to their means and circumstances. 476 LANARKSHIRE. None of the poor are either allowed or known to beg, their montli' ly allowance being very liberal^ and most of them get their house rents paid. The amount arising to the poors* fund from church col- lections was last year L. 13 ; and from legal assessments, L. 168. The interest of L* 50 is applied to the education of children of the poor. Miscellaneous Observations. Till within these four or five years, it was a novel sight to see a four*wheeled carriage of any kind pass through the village of Stonehouse. But since the turnpike road from Ayr to Edinburgh has been opened, the Edinburgh and Ayr coach passes every day through the village ; besides a coach from Strathaven to Glas- gow by Stonehouse twice a-day ; and another which starts every morning from the Buck's-head Inn, Stonehouse, for Glasgow, and returns the same day; and all of them generally are well employed. There is also a regular carrier betwixt Stonehouse and Glasgow, twice a week. A post-office has likewise been lately established in the village, so that the inhabitants of the parish and village of Stonehouse now enjoy many advantages which they formerly were deprived of, by the peculiar situation of the place. In a moral and religious point of view, the inhabitants of the village of Stonehouse (which contains a population of nearly 1600 souls) are, with a few exceptions^ an industrious, sober, and reli* gious people, nowise addicted to the many vices of the inhabitants of villages of a similar population throughout the kingdom, — such as excessive drinking, swearing, and fighting. Quarrelling and fight- ing are seldom or ever heard of; and though there are three well attended fairs held in the village yearly, yet many of these pass over without the slightest appearance of quarrel. The due observance of the Sabbath is likewise a characteristic mark of the inhabitants of Stonehouse. The hallowing of the Sab- bath day is here most scrupulously attended to, by all ranks of per- sons, both in town and parish ; and except in going to and from church, you will hardly spe a person on the street All public houses are shut on Sabbath, unless to the traveller for refreshment. June 1836. PARISH OF DOUGLAS. PRESBYT£RY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. ALEXANDER STEWART, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. ^ame, — The name of Douglas is associated in the mind of ry Scotchman with the most splendid periods in the history of country. Whether this parish derived its name from the fa- y so conspicuous in our ancient annals, or the family its name Om the place, has become lately a matter of dispute. The fa- rite tradition, as detailed by Hume of Godscroft, is, that in the *gn of Solvathius, King of Scotland, about the year 767, Do- *^^J.d Bain (t. e. the iair,) took the field against the King. Victory *^^.€3 nearly declared in favour of the rebel, when a person flew, ^•^t;li his sons and followers, to the King's aid, and by his activity valour routed the forces of Donald, who was himself slain, e King, thus rescued from imminent danger, inquired to whom *^^ owed his deliverance, when one of his officers, pointing to the ^^*i5unpion, said, Sholto Dou-glasse, " there is the dark man.'* In &**^tude for his services, the King gave him a large tract of land, the surname of Doiiglas^ which was extended to his domain, to the river by which it is traversed.* Situation and Extent. — The parish of Douglas, comprehending y the whole extent of Douglasdale, occupies the south-western unity of Lanarkshire, and is contenninous with the parishes Lesmahagow on the north and north-west; Carmichael and ^^iston on the east ; Roberton and Crawfordjohn on the south-east ^*^d south ; and Muirkirk, in Ayrshire, on the west. It extends ^^^ It appears to afford some confirmation of this tradition, that Sholto is still a kind ^^^ereditary pranomen among the various branches of the Douglas family. This YS^^tion is indignantly reject^ by that laborious, able, but dogmatical antiquary, y**corge Chalmers, who betrays an unbecoming eagerness to detract from the hither. ^ U ndisputed antiquity of the House of Douglas. '1 he origin of the name he re- ^'t to the river, tracing it to the Celtic words Du-glaa, " the dark blue stream." As Y^^'^octive i^ypellation, this is not particularly applicable to the Douglas water. ^ We mean not to quarrel with the etymology, which may perha])s be better war- J^tcd by the appearance of the other streams, both in Scotland and England, which "•»« the nme name. 478 LANARKSHIRE. from near the confluence of the Douglas with the Clyde to the summit of Cairntable, upwards of 12 miles in length, and it varies from 4 to 7 miles in breadth. Its superficial area contains about 28,004 Scotch acres; of which 38 16 are arable; 22,376 pasture; 1492 wood; and 320 flow-moss : — in imperial measure the super- ficial contents are 35,dl8T'Q acres; viz. of arable land, 4812/o; pasture, 28,220 j%; wood, 1881 1^^; flow-moss, 403^^^. Topographical Appearances, — Although Douglasdale cannot vie with the clothed luxuriance of some of our lowland districts, or with the bold and rugged grandeur of our highland scenery, it presents, along the whole course of the river, an aspect of sweet and unpre- tending beauty, which contrasts most favourably with the bleak- ness of the country, through which it is approached on every side. The river flows through a strath, which widens gradually in its course towards the Clyde. From this strath the ground slopes on each side to a considerable elevation, adorned, especially on the north side, with extensive and beautiful plantations. Around Dou- glas Castle, there is some fine old wood, chiefly ash and plane trees; and plantations of more recent growth, and of great breadth, extend for several miles above and below. At Douglas Mill, where the strath opens into wide and fertile holms, nearly surrounded with fine- ly wooded banks, the scenery is particularly admired. Beyond the strath, on either side, the ground stretches into extensive moors; or swells into hills covered with grass to their summits. On the west it terminates in Cairntable, which, with its dependent range to the south, encloses it as with a chain of mountain ramparts. A great extent of ground has been recently planted by Lord Douglas ; and as his Lordship is carrying on these plantations on a large scale, the aspect of the parish will be progressively improving for many years. Climate. — The lowest part of the parish, near the Clyde, is 650 feet above the level of the sea, from which it is nearly 40 miles distant in every direction. The climate, of course, is cold ; and there is scarcely a month in the year when it is altogether se- cure from frost In 1821, there occurred on the 2d of July, a frost so severe, as seriously to injure the potato crop. Douglas has a large share, too, of the rains from the Atlantic, although considerably less rain falls here than on the coasts of Renfrew and Ayr. It is exposed to high winds, particularly from the south-west and west; which, being confined, as in a funnel, by the high grounds on each side, sweep down the strath with tremendous vio- DOUGLAS. 479 lence. In one of the heavy gales of last winter, about four acres oT plantation were stript completely bare, as by a tornado ; besides, tre«es innumerable were blown down in every part of the woods. The air, however, is pure aiid salubrious ; tlie parish is remark- able for the general health of the inhabitants, many of whom reach ^^^i^eme old age. Within the last fourteen years two men have died ^ tiie age of ninety-seven, and some have exceeded ninety. ** Sail, ^c — In the arable part of the parish, the soil is in general 0Oc>d, capable of bearing rich crops of any kind of grain. In the str^uh, it is mostly a free black mould ; in some places, more light ^^'^d gravelly; and in others, spouty, the undersoil being a cold till. C^lay soil occurs to a considerable extent Even in the moors there ^ «. great proportion of deep loam, which, in a more favourable cli- , would amply repay the labours of the agriculturist ; and it often been remarked that there are few places where the moor l^'^A are so inviting to the enterprise of the cultivator. Many P^^^ of the moors, however, are occupied with moss or with morass. -Although the parish may be considered a hilly district, none of "^^ hills are of great elevation, except Caimtable, which rises to ^'^^ height of 1650 feet above the level of the sea. Auchinsaugh "*H is likewise of considerable altitude ; but is more remarkable ■^ l)eing the spot where the Cameronians met, towards the close of "^^ seventeenth century, for the renewal of the solemn league and c^^^enant Sydrography. — The only stream of any consequence is the I-^ouglas, which issues from the foot of Caimtable, about nine "^^les above the town, and falls into the Clyde, after a course of six- n miles. It receives several tributary rivulets, as the Monks, ourin, and Poniel waters on the left bank; the Kennox, Gles- P**^j Parkhead, and Craigburn waters, on the right All these ^^f^ams formerly abounded with trout ; but they have been of late y^ars so much poached with set lines, nets, and every other means ^* nda, now upwardsof eighty, has been fourteen years in the service of the present l^i^ter, and is still so active, that he can walk, without difficulty, from twenty to *'»»ty miles a.day. 4S0 LANARKSHIRE. rich seams of excellent coal, which will be inexhaustible for many centuries. These seams stretch in a direction neariy parallel to the course of the river. They are from 2 to 7 feet thick, and vary considerably in their decline. At the eastern extremity of the parish, the decline is about 1 of 3 ; half a-mile westward, 1 of 2; and a little farther" to the westward 1 of 1^. They are in- tersected with numberless slips, which throw the coal down fix)m 30 to 50 feet perpendicular. These slips lie nearly parallel, and are generally from 60 to 200 yards apart They cross the line of the coal, in a direction nearly wesL As the country to the south and east is destitute, for a considerable extent, of this precious mineral, the coal of Douglas is in great demand, and a great quan- tity of it is carried to a distance of upwards of thirty miles. Lime- stone is wrought in several parts of the parish, particularly at Wishaw, near its south-eastern border. Freestone Ukewise abounds, some of it of a beautiful white colour, well adapted for building. Ironstone is frequent ; and there are several springs in the parish pretty strongly chalybeate. Zoology, — Among the wild quadrupeds found in this parish may be mentioned the fox, of which there are considerable numbers in the plantations, the polecat, which, however, is but rare, the weasel, the hedgehog, and the squirrel ; hares are very numerous. Of the smaller birds there is a great variety in. the woods. The most common species are, the blackbird, thrush, skylark, chaffinch, linnet, sparrow ; the yellow-hammer, the wagtail, the robin, wren, and titmouse are not uncommon, and the goldfinch is occasion- ally seen. Swallows abound, starlings sometimes appear. In winter - we are visited by flocks of fieldfares. Lapwings and curlews abound in the moors; wild ducks and coots are verj' numerous, particularly on the lake in the pleasure grounds of the castle ; hawks, chiefly of the smaller kinds, sometimes venture to make their appearance, in spite of the vigilance with which they are persecuted by the gamekeepers; but the magpie is almost completely banished, although abounding in the adjoining parishes. There is great variety and abundance of feathered game ; grouse, black-cock, snipes, woodcock, partridges, and pheasants. Perch, pike, and trout are the only fish which our waters afibrd to the angler. The Falls of Clyde efiectually prevent salmon from finding their way to our streams. II. — Civil History. Douglasdale, always interesting from historical associations, has DOUGLAS. 481 lately acquired a classical, though melancholy interest, as being the &cene of the last historical romance of Sir Walter Scott. Before tlie appearance of ** Castle Dangerous," the illustrious author paid SL visit to the Castle and town of Douglas, — the last places which lm« visited, or perhaps intended to visit, with a view to publication, as if it had been his design to close his splendid and fascinating illustrations of the historical antiquities of his country with the l>rilliant achievements of the Douglas, the friend and assistant of t;lie Bruce in recovering the Scottish crown, and in rescuing the l^ingdom from English domination. The civil history of a parish distinguished by the residence ^f the illustrious house of Douglas must be identified in a great *^€asurewith the most splendid and important portion of the an- ^^bIs of Scotland. Unfortunately it is covered with almost impene- ^^ble obscurity. Not even tradition has saved from oblivion any ^^Dsiderable part of the eventful deeds, of which it must often have *^^en the theatre ; and no minstrelsy exists to aid the researches of ^«e antiquary. During the long struggle which Scotland had to ^**^intain for her independence, in consequence of the pretensions ^* Gdward L of England and his successors, the castle of Douglas ^'^^ so important as a stronghold, and as a key to the western ^^^^ties, that it was often the object of violent contention. It "^peatedly fell into the hands of the English, and as often was ^^^sted from them by its rightful owners. In these fearful con- ?*^ts, it was more than once destroyed by fire, always rising from •hashes in greater strength and stateliness. So perilous, indeed, was *^ Occupation to the English governors, that it was designated the ^*fle of Danger. Of the bloody scenes that occurred in the course ^* these fierce contentions, the names of some places in the neigh- borhood of the castle, as the Bloody Sykes^ the Bottomless Mire, &c. *^ll give significant, though obscure intimation. One of the con- ?*^ts in which the castle was recovered from Sir John de Walton, ^y the good Sir James Douglas, is too memorable to be omitted !j^^. A fiiir dame of England, whom Sir Walter Scott calls the "^dy Augusta de Berkely, had promised to her numerous suitors '^t she would bestow her hand on the man who should keep pos- ^^sion of the perilous castle of Douglas for a year and a day. Sir *^^ii de Walton, with the consent of Edward L, undertook the ^^gerous task ; and after having discharged his duty fiiithfiilly ^d valiantly for several montlis, the lady, perhaps impatient to ^^t him in possession of the promised reward, sent a letter to recall him, k 482 LANARKSHIRE. declaring that she held his probation accomplished. Having re- ceived, however, a defiance from Douglas, who threatened, that, in spite of his utmost vigilance, he should wrest from him the castle before Palm Sunday, De Walton deemed it a point of honour to retain it till that day was past On that very day, Douglas having mustered a band of fiuthfiil followers, while most of the English garrison were engaged in church, attacked and overpowered them as they came out ; and then hastening to the castle cut down all that opposed him. Sir John de Walton was slain, and in his pockets was found his lady's letter, the perusal of which deeply affected the generous and gallant Douglas. While the garrison was yet in the church, the slogan, '^ a Douglas, a Dou- glas," being prematurely raised, Thomas Dickson of Hazleside, who was likewise within, watching their movements, thinking that his young lord was at hand with his armed retinue, drew his sword, and with only one man to assist him, opposed the English, who now rushed to the door. Although cut across the middle by an En- glish sword, Dickson continued his opposition till he fell lifeless at the threshhold. On these incidents. Sir Walter Scott has found- ed the tale of his historical novel, ^^ Castle Danfferous^^* I have adverted in another place to the frequent meetings of the Covenanters, which were held in the church of Douglas about the time of the Revolution in 1688. After many scruples and frequent and long discussions, it was at length resolved to raise a regiment, in aid of the Protestant government of William, and in defence of their principles and rights ; and the Cameronian regiment, now the 26th Regiment of the line, was first mustered on a holm or place near the town of Douglas, on 29th April 1689, under the com- mand of the Earl of Angus, eldest son of the Marquis of Douglas, — William Cleland being Lieutenant- Colonel. This regimentsoon after distinguished itself by its gallant and successful stand against an army of 4000 Highlanders at Dunkeld. The following notice of Douglas parish and castle, firom the description of the sheriffdom of Lanark, by William Hamilton of Wishaw, written in the beginning of the last century, may be in- teresting to many of our readers. ^^ Douglas parish and barony and lordship heth very long appertained to the family of Douglas, and continued with the Earls of Douglas until their fatal for- feiture, anno 1455 ; during which time there are many noble and important actions performed by them, by the lords and earls of that great fiunily. It was thereafter given to Douglas, Earl of DOUGLAS. 483 Aiiguse, and continued with them until William, Earl of Anguse, yffBs created Marquis of Douglas, anno 1633; and is now the prin- cipal seat of the Marquis of Douglas and his &mily. It is a large baronie and parish, and ane laick patronage ; and the Marquis is both titular and patron. He heth there, near to the church, a very oonsiderable great house, called the Castle of Douglas ; and near ^he church is a fine village, called the town of Douglas, long since erected in a burgh of baronie. It heth ane handsome church, and cnany ancient monuments and inscriptions on the old interments of the Earl of this place." Familyof Douglas. — George Chalmers, (Caledonia^ i. 579,) traces the family of Douglas to Theobald, a Fleming, who, sometime be- tween the years 1147 and 1160, obtained from Arnold, Abbot of Kelso, a grant of some lands in Douglasdale. Even according to his account, they were not long in rising to consequence. Wil- liam, the son and successor of Theobald, was witness to several char- ^rs between the years 1170 and 1190. In the letter addressed ^y the Community of Scotland to Edward L in 1289, we find the "^^^ne of William of Douglas among the barons. " But though T^sumame and fiunilie of the Douglases,*' says Hollinshed, " was ^ Some estimation of nobilitie before those daies, yet the rising ^^t"eof to honour chanced through this James Douglas, the good ^^ James, for, by means of his advancement, others of that lineage ^^ke occasion, by their singular manhood and noble prowess, shew- p^ at sundrie times in defence of the realme, to grow to such height ''^ authority and estimation, that their mighty puissance in main '^'its, lands, and great possessions at length was (through suspicion ^^Oceived by the Kings that succeeded) the cause in part of their "^^Hous decay." After the forfeiture of the Earls of Douglas in "^^5, their possessions were bestowed on the Earl of Angus, by ^'^ose lineal descendants they were occupied till the death of the ^*^ke of Douglas in 1760. A long plea for the succession then ^''^^se between the Duke of Hamilton and Archibald, son of Sir *J^l>n Stewart of GrandtuUy, by Lady Jane Douglas, sister to the '^^^Ite. To the great joy of Douglasdale, and of the country in ge- ,^t^al, a decision was at length given in favour of the latter. The *^1« became extinct ; but Mr Douglas was created a peer of the *^^^m in 1790, by the title of Lord (Baron) Douglas of Douglas. ^>l the death of this nobleman, in the end of December 1827, ^^ was succeeded by his eldest son Archibald, the present *-^Td Douglas. Distinguished as the ancient Douglases were for ^Wir valour and martial achievements, their descendants of the 484 LANARKSHIRE. present race are no less eminent for the manly and generous vir- tues which become their high rank; and few noblemen in the kingdom can be more deservedly respected and loved as a land- lord, a superior, or a friend, than the present Lord Douglas. Eminent Men, — For the eminent men of the house of Douglas, including almost every male of the race who came to maturity, we must refer to the records of history. One native of this pa- rish, distinguished by his literary attainments, was Dr John Black, late minister of Coylton, in Ayrshire, author of the Life of Tasso, and of a work replete with learning and ingenuity, entitled Palaico- Romaica, in which he endeavours to prove, with more ability than success, that the New Testament was originally written in Latin, from which our Greek version is merely a translation. Antiquities. — On the farm of Parishholm, near the skirts of Caimtable, there are the traces of a fortress, which was probably a stronghold of the Douglases, commanding the entrance into the parish from the west It was here, in all probability, that the good Sir James lay with his faithful vassals, when he so often took occa- sion to surprise the English garrison at the Castle of Douglas. About a mile and a-half south from Douglas Castle, near the great road to England, are the vestiges of a fort, bearing the name of Tothorl Castle. This name appears to be a corruption for Thirl wall Castle; and it was probably built as an outpost by Sir Richard de Thursle- wall, or Thirlwall, Lieutenant-Governor of Douglas Castle under Sir Robert de Clifford. A mound still called Boncastle. within the great park to the east of the Castle, was probably the site of a similar post of observation. Several years since, an urn was dug up near Douglas Castle ; and near the same spot was found a great collection of bones. The head of a spear and a very massive ring of pure gold were likewise found in the vicinity. There is in the possession of Lord Douglas a very ancient sword resembling a claymore of the usual size, bearing, amidst a great deal of flourishing, two hands pointing to a heart, which is placed between them ; the date is 1329, — the year in which Bruce charged the good Sir James to carry his heart to the Holy Land. Around the emblem are inscribed the following lines : ** So many guid as of the Doyglas betnge, Of ane surname was ne'er in Scotland seine I will ye charge after that I depart To holy grave, and thair bury my heart ; Let it remane ever bothb ttxx akd hour To ye last day I see my Saviour. I do protest in tyme of all my ringe, Ye lyk subject had never ony kinge.** DOUGLAS* 485 TTiis precious relic was nearly lost in the civil war of 1745-6, liaving been carried from Douglas Castle by some of the followers of Prince Charles. The Duke of Douglas, however, regained it, by making great interest with the chieis of the Stuart party. It is now at Bothwell Castle. There are several cairns in different parts of the parish, — one on *he top of Auchensaugh hill, where the Covenant was renewed ; another on the top of Kirkton hill called the Captain's cairn. On wie ferm of Poniel, there was a large cairn, beneath which the pre- ^®nt tenant found a stone coffin a few years ago, and two other stone coffins had, some time before, been found on the same farm. *hepe IS likev^e a stone coffin in the burying-place of the Inglises *^ the parish church-yard. IIL — Population. Since the publication of the former Statistical Account of this Parish, its population has been progressively increasing. In 1831, *t amounted to 2549 ; in 1834, it had increased to 2567. It is re- ^'^rkable, that during these three years, the population in the coim- *•> part of the parish had decreased, while an increase to the ^■^ount of about 90 had taken place in the town. The obvious ^^Use of the diminution in the country population was, that when the ^^*4suswas taken in 1831, there were several large families, most of the members of which had just reached, or were on the verge of **^^urity ; and before the number of the population was again taken, 5*^® greater number of these were dispersed. In 1834, the popu- "^tton of the town of Douglas was 1343. When the former Sta- ^^tioal Account was drawn up, it was 684. The population of the ^ole parish in 1791, was 1715, so that an increase to the amount * 852 has taken place within the last forty-four years. The ^^*i0(rt every farm ; suitable fences, chiefly of stone, are always ''^adily granted ; clumps of plantation, each of several acres, have ^^®en set down and enclosed on the store farms, for the protection ^* the sheep in the winter storms ; and the face of the country has ^^ within these few years, undergone the most decided improve- **^€nt No set of tenantry could be more worthy of such encou- ''^gement, or could more gratefully and cordially appreciate it. Id the grounds around the castle, the spirit of improvement has *^n, for a number of years, in most active and successful opera- ^*^ Bothwell Castle having been, ever since the death of his ^^ lady, the favourite residence of the late Lord Douglas, the ^^e and place here were almost entirely neglected. Fortunate- ly his son took up his residence, about seventeen years ago, at Dou- 8«8 Castle, for which he has ever since retained a decided parti- ^y. Under his spirited and tasteful improvements, the place has ^•umed a quite different appearance ; and is every year exhibit- ^g new beauties. An unseemly morass of several acres, in the immediate vicinity of the castle, has been transformed into a large Uke, ornamented with finely wooded islands. Extensive plantations bate been formed in judicious adaptation to the grounds, and ac- 488 LANARKSHIRE. cordance with the older woods. Roads have been made, and new lodges built, and great numbers of work-people are constantly em- ployed in carrying on extensive plans, by which the place is daily improving in value and 'fh beauty. Douglas Castle, the Castle Dangerous of Sir Walter Scott, as before observed, was the object of many a fierce conflict between the English and its proper lords. The conflagration by which it was consumed, in the year 1760, was accidental; and the cele- brated architect Adam was employed by the Duke to build ano- ther, on a scale of magnificence adequate to his high rank and am- ple property. It was to consist of two spacious "sides, or wings, and a front; and had it been completed on its original plan, would have been one of the most princely edifices in Scotland. Only one wing, or about two-fifths of the plan, was built before the Duke's death ; but even in this wing, which was finished by the late Lord Douglas, there are 52 fire rooms. The dining-room, no^^ used as a drawing-room, is a very splendid apartment-— 40^ feet in length, 25 feet in width, and 18 in height, with a particularly rich and beau- tiful ceiling. The hanging stair is greatly admired by persons of taste ; the steps are of a freestone, veined and clouded like beau- tiful marble. Manufactures, — In the year 1792, a factory for cotton-spinning and weaving was erected by a company from Glasgow, consisting of natives of Douglas. The carding was performed by horse power ; the spinning by hand jennies. It continued in operation for only a few years, but it was the origin of a connection which still sub- sists between the manufacturers of Glasgow and Ihe inhabitants of the village of Douglas, most of whom are employed in hand- loom weaving. A small carding -mill for wool, which was erected about the same time on the lands of Carmacoup, is still kept up, but to no great advantage. V. — Parochial Economy. Town. — The town or village of Douglas is a place of con- siderable antiquity. Its streets, like those of most towns built when it was necessary to adopt precautions against the sudden incursions of an enemy, are very narrow. Some of the houses are of a very antique form. One lane is occupied by a range of houses, still called the Dungeon^ and the thick walls, narrow winding stair- cases, and small windows, completely correspond with the name, in attesting the purpose to which it was originally destined. Dou- glas was, in former times, a place of much greater importance than DOUGLAS. 489 at present As a burgh of barony, it possessed a regular ma- gistracy, to whom the lords of the manor appear to have delegated some of their most important feudal prerogatives. Among these 'Was the power of life and death. So late as the year 1675, we find the bailies compelling two persons, who, under the pretence of being travelling merchants, had infested the public markets as va- gabonds, to come under an obligation, ** upon condition of their li- berty forth of the tolbooth of the burgh of Douglas, to depart ^rth of said burgh and lordship of Douglas, and never thereafter ^ return to the same, nor no place within the bounds and jurisdic- TOn of the Marquis of Douglas, during all the days of their life- line, under the pain of death, and that immediately to be execute ^'Pon them, without any jury or process of law to be sett or holden for that eflFect" The Gallow-hill, an eminence at a short distance ®tot from the town, was probably the place to which the unhappy ^^i^ms, whom the magistrates doomed to death, were led forth from ^© dungeon to execution. Within the recollection of some old persons yet alive, Douglas ^'^^ a place of considerable business. Two or three notaries, ^or, ^ they were called clerks, resided in the town. Its weekly mar- ^ts were regularly attended by the farmers for the s^e of stock ; *^ its numerous fiurs were not only attended, as they still are, by *^ great concourse of people, but were well supplied with the va- ^^Us articles of rural traffic Now, no law practitioner is seen 'bere but on an occasional visit Its weekly markets are little more ^ban nominal ; and neither at them nor the annual ^urs is any ^^d of stock ever exposed for sale. This decrease of business b^ proportionally affected the respectability of the inhabitants, ^^Ty few of whom are now above the rank of mechanics or labour- ^^ : and it were difficult to find a village of equal population so ^^titute of genteel or respectable society. •ftoocfo. — This parish enjoys the advantages of excellent roads. *^e great road from Edinburgh to Ayr, by Carnwath, Muirkirk, ^Hj Cmnnock, traverses its whole length from east to west ; and .be great London road from Glasgow by Carlisle, one of the finest ^ the kingdom, passes through it for about 7 miles from N. W. ^ & E. and S. The road to Ayr is the most direct from the ca- P^t^ and is kept in excellent repair ; but as a new road has some y^'te since been opened through a more populous part of the coun- ^> this is comparatively but little frequented. The late Lord \ 490 LANARKSHIRE. Douglas, with the munificence which has always distinguished noble line, had 20 miles of the old Glasgow road, and 30 nul^^ of the road to Ayr, made at his own expense. There are seTe parish roads, besides, the expense of which is defrayed b^ th^^ « statute labour tax, which the householders p£iy with a grudg^^B, but which is levied with the most considerate attention to thes- ^ circumstances. Ecclesiastical State. — Besides the EstabUshed Church, there i small meeting-house, in connection with the United Secession, a Cameronian meeting-house at the lower extremity of the The number of dissenters is not great, and it would have much less, had not many been compelled to take seats in the meetiiB^- house, from the impossibility of procuring acconmioklation in t^Mie Established Church. Rigside was one of the original seats of fclie Cameronians. It was at Douglas that many of the most import^aot meetings of the Covenanters were held — especially about the tLsxe of the Revolution in 1688, when the propriety of embodying a regiment of fiuthftil Covenanters for the niaintenance of their x^ ligious principles and rights was the momentous subject of det beration. Since that time, there has always been a Cameroniao congregation and minister at Rigside ; but although the congt^ gation is collected from the adjoining parishes to a consideral)Je distance around, the number of members in communion with that body was ascertained, a few years ago, not to exceed 20. The church, although not old, is by much too small for the ac- commodation of the parishioners. A few years ago, the present mi- nister was told by the people of the town, that there were 1^ heads of families who were desirous of having seats in the church, and could not procure them. The statement might be exaggerat- ed ; but it proved, at least, how much the evil was felt The well- known liberality of the heritors of the parish affords the best pledge that the evil will not be allowed to continue long. Of their lib^ rality and kindness, the present incumbent has had the most gra^- fying experience. In the summer of 1828, a new manse wasbo^^ after a plan by Mr Gillespie Graham, with a set of offices, which* for elegance and extent of accommodation, may stand a compar*" son with any similar buildings in the county. An approach to the manse was made, and a handsome gate built, at the expense of *® heritors; and the garden wtis enclosed with a substantial sio^ wall, of con.siderable height, at the expense of the late Lord Doi^P' DOUGLAS. 491 las. The glebe is extensive and valuable. The stipend is 16 chalders, in equal proportions of barley and oatmeal; with L. 10 for communion elements. JUimuments. — The former church was of great antiquity. It ap- pears tb have been of considerable extent ; and if we may judge from what still remains, it must have presented no mean specimen of Go- thic architecture. A small spire, and the aisle that served as the btuying place of the Douglas family, are still religiously preserved. *He monuments in this aisle, though much defaced, at-e still much Jidmired for their sculpture and chisel-work. Mr Edward Blore, than whom there is no more competent judge, reckoned them among the most interesting sepulchral antiquities in Scotland ; and Sir Walter Scott was of opinion that, in their original state, they must liaYe been not inferior in any respect to the best of the same pe- viod in Westminster Abbey. These monuments are said to have l)een de&ced and mutilated by a detachment of Cromwell's troops, "who profaned this sacred edifice by making it a stable for their hor- ses. But we have unfortunately a less remote cause to which we may trace much of the mischief; for, during the many years when Douglas Castle was deserted by the late Lord Douglas as a resi- dence, the aisle was left open and unprotected ; and the boys of the place, with the destructive propensity characteristic of the Scots, made it a favourite amusement to aim with stones at the figures and chisel-work. First in importance (although Ihere is one of which the plainer and ruder workmanship seems to indicate a remoter antiquity,) is the monument of the good Sir James Douglas, the most valued and eflScient associate of Robert the Bruce, in his efforts to vindicate Ae independence of his country, and his own claim to its throne. The figure is of dark-stone, recumbent as on a couch, and cross legged, to mark his character as a crusader ; for he had not only, in compliance with the dying request of his royal friend, undertaken a pilgrimage to the holy sepulchre for the purpose of depositing Ro- bot's heart in that sacred pkce, but had fallen in actual conflict with the infidels of Spain. The bones of this hero were conveyed home by his sorrowful comrades, and interred in the church of Dou- glas ; and the erection of his tomb is expressly ascribed by Barbour, and other historians nearest that period, to his son Archibald Dou- glas. ♦ • •* The banys hainc with them Une. And svne arc to thair schippis gane ; 492 LANARKSHIRE. In the vault is still the case in which the heart of the good Sir James was enclosed. On the same side of the aisle, to the east of this tomb, is that of one of the Dukes of Touraine, the decorations of which are still more elaborate and elegant, though likewise much broken down and de&ced. On the fragments appear the arms of the en- tombed, quartered thus : \st, Touraine ; 2d, Douglas ; Qdj Gral- loway; 4^, Annandale; — with the following inscription : "Hicja- cet Archibaldus Douglas, Dux Toureniae, Comis de Douglas et Loueville, Dominus Grallovidias, Wigtoniae, et Annandiae, locum tenens Regis Scotiae, obiit 26 die mensis Junii 14d8w" This was the son of Archibald Douglas, surnamed Tineman, the 6rst Duke of Touraine, and Maud Lindesay, daughter of David Earl of Craw- ford. In a niche on the south side of the aisle, commonly called St Thomas's aisle, we &nd the following inscriptions upon a tomb of particularly fine workmanship, surmounted by two recumbent figures, exquisitely wrought, representing the Douglas and his lady ; and having ten figures in basso relievo bepeath^ in a stand- ing attitude, representing their children : '^ Hie jacet magnus et potens princeps, Dominus Jacobus de Douglas, Dux Toureniae et Comes de Douglas, Dominus Annandiae, Gallovidiae, Liddaliae^ Jedburg Forestiae, et Dominus de Balveniae, magnus Wardanus regni Scotiae versus Angliam, &c ; qui obiit 24 die mensis Mar- tii, anno Domini 1443.'' This James was brother to the above- mentioned Archibald, to whose estate and honours he succeeded after the murder of Archibald's two sons in Edinburgh and Stir* ling Castles. The inscription for his lady is : '^ Hie jacet Domina Beatrix de Sinclair, (filia Domini Henrici Comitis Orcadum, Do- mini de Sinclair, &c) Comitissa de Douglas, et Aveniae, Domina Gallovidiae." On the east side of these is a stone with this inscrip- tion : <^ Hae sunt proles inter praedictos Dominum et Dominam, generatae. Imo, Dominus Wilhelmusi primogenitus et haeres dicti Domini Jacobi, qui successit ad totam haereditatem praedic- tam. Jacobus, 2do genitus, Magister de Douglas. Archibaldus^ Syne toward Scotland held thair waj. And thar are cummin in full gret by* And the banjra honorabiUy, In till the kirk of Douglas war, Erdyt, with dule and mekiU car. Schyr Archebald his son gert syn Off alabastre baith fair and fyne, Ordane a tumbe sae richly, As it behowyt to swa worthy.** DOUGLAS. 493 Stio genitus, comes Moravise. Hugo, 4to genitus, comes Ormun- diae. Joannes, 5to genitus, Dominus de Balveniae. Henricus, 6to genitus. Margareta, uxor Domini de Dalkeith, Beatrix uxor Domi- ni Joannis Constabularii Scotiae, ♦ Janeta, uxor Domini de Big- gsut et de Cumbernauld. Elizabeth Douglas, 4ta iilia erat." On the lead coffins in the vault are the following inscriptions : ^^ Gul. Aug. Dominus ex Jacobo Marchione Douglasise et Dom. Maria Kerr, filia Comitis Lothianae conjuge, primogenitus, natus 15 Oct. l8Wi obiit 20 Mar. 1694. Maria Gordon filia Georgii primi Marchionis de Huntly, quam Gulielmus primus Marchio de ^^ouglas in uxorem secundo duxit, quaeque anno suae aetatis sexa- S^simo quarto, salutis humanae 1644, mortem obiit. Hie situm ^^ corpus Gul. Marchionis Douglasiae eo titulo primi, qui ex di- ^'^^s et mutuis thalamis ab Hamiltoniorum et Gordoniorum B^^te suam progeniem continuatam, Hamiltoniorum vero instaura- ^^''^ reliquit. Obiit 1 1. cal. Mart, anno 1660, aetat vero 7 1. Margaret ^^^miltown, Angusiae Comitissa, obiit 38 anno aetatis suae, 1 1 Sep- ^®^bris 1623. Anna Stewarta, due. Lennoxiae et Richmondiae filia, Ai^hibaldo Angusiae Comiti per xviii. annos nupta, obiit xvi. die Aogusti, anno MDCXLVI. aetat xxxi. D. O. M. Hicpositum ^^coipus Margaretae, filiae primogenitae Gul. Marchionis de Dou- 8J^ relictae ex matrimonio cum Margareta : obiit Imo Jan. 1660. "^^Barina conjuga Domini de Torphichen, item Joanna Gul. Alex- ^dri Comitis de Steri. aetatis 49."— On the coffin of the last "^^rquis of Douglas the simple inscription is : " J. M. D. aetatis ^y obiit 25 Februarii 1700." Wlien the coffins in this ancient vault had accumulated so that <^uld not well contain more, it was abandoned for a new and ^^^ious vault under the present church. There, are deposited the ^^'Jlains of the Duke and Duchess of Douglas, the late Lord Dou- ^*^ and his two ladies. Lady Lucy, sister to the present Duke of ^ontrose, and Lady Jane, sister to the late Duke of Buccleuch, and ^^olto, one of his Lordship's sons by his second marriage. ^ecksiasiical History. — The parish of Douglas belonged of old to ^^ Abbots of Kelso, by one of whom part of it was given to Theo- ^^d, a Fleming, the founder, according to George Chalmers, of the ^^Uglas feunily. The church and parish were dedicated to St Bridget ^'^ Bride ; and the old church is still named St Bride's. « By St Bride ^^ tfeuglas" was the usual oath of the Douglases. A person of the ^^e of Beckerton was presented to this church by Edward of • Godscroft calls him Lord of Aiibigny. 494 LANARKSHIRE. England, in 1291 i but it does not appear that he entered upon the charge. We find Aihner de Softlaw, parson of Douglas, swearing fealty to Edward in 1296. Towards the end of the fourteenth cen- tury, the parish of Douglas was made a prebend of the cathedral of Glasgow. Archibald Douglas, rector of this parish, was engaged in the murder of Rizzio, for which Christian-like service he was raised by the Regent Murray to the office of a Lord of Session. At the Reformation the revenues of the rectory were let on lease at L. 200 per annum. In the old church there was an altar to the Virgin Mary, and one to St Thomas. Besides the church of St Bride's there appear to have been at one time several religious houses in different parts of the parish. At Anderson there was a chapel with a place of interment. The font stone was removed upwards of eighty years ago ; and near the site of the chapel there is a remarkably fine spring called the Chapel WelL On the adjoin- ing lands of Glentaggart, there was a building which was proba- bly a chapel, as a font stone was found in it which is stUl preserv- ed. Near Parishholm there was a chapel founded by James IV. and in the east of the parish there is a hill called the Chapel-hill. Lord 'Douglas is patron of the parish and titular of the teinds. The parochial register of baptisms commences on the 7 th Septem- ber 1671 ; the register of the proceedings of the kirk-session on the 2dd December 1692. Education. — Extensive as this parish is, its inhabitants in almost every part of it have within their reach the means of good education. Besides the parish school, in which not merely the ordinary branches, but classical literature and mathematics may be learned, there is an English school in the town, very numerously attended. In the village of Rigside, in the lower district of the parish, inha- bited chiefly by colliers, there was, about fourteen years ago, only one school, attended by 17 scholars, and so little interest did the pa- rents then take in the education of their children, that not more than one or two appeared at the annual examination of the school; now, although the population of that district is not greatly increas- ed, there are two schools, each attended by 60 scholars ; and, at the last examination in May 1835, the number of spectators in each was nearly equal to that of the pupils. There is likewise a school at Tablestone, in the upper portion of the parish, generally attend- ed by about 35 or 40 scholars. In general, these schools are sup- plied with excellent teachers. At the parish school, there have al- ways been some poor children taught free; but as it has been found DOUGLAS. 496 that, owing to the low rate of weavers' wages, there are a greater num- ber of children than usual, whose parents caiinot afford to send them to school, an association is now forming for the purpose of raising a fund for insuring to the children of the most indigent the bles- sings of education ; and it is to be hoped that it will be so liberal- ly supported as to effect completely its benevolent and most import- ant purpose. There are likewise two Sabbath schools in the town, both of which are well attended. The salary of the parish teacher is the maximum, and an elegant school-room, with a dwelling-house ibp the schoolmaster above, w^ built about eight years ago, at *he expense of Lord Douglas. A yearly salary of L. 5 is likewise *Uowed by his Lordship to the principal teacher at Rigside, where a commodious school-house is now being built at the expense of ^ue same generous nobleman. Ubrwry. — There is a subscription library in the town of Dou- S^as, containing about 1000 volumes, tolerably well chosen. It is S>^aclually increasing, although the fund is but small. ^oar» — The proportion of paupers is great The average num- who have regular aliment from the parish funds is 46 ; but there many besides who receive occasional relief. The heritors raise ^y iroluntary assessment the fund necessary for the maintenance ^ the poor and other parochial purposes, the assessment vary- *i^ from 9d. to Is. in the pound of valued rent The church collections average about L. 45 yearly, and to this frind is likewise ^ be added the interest of L. 110 bequeathed to the poor. The ^ate John Gillespie, Esq. of Sunnyside lefl L. 100 for the benefit ^f the poor of this parish, who are not on the roll of paupers, in- ^sting the annual distribution of the interest to the minister of ^© parish and the senior surgeon. Among the same class of poor ^'^ distributed the collections, averaging about L. 8, drawn on the ^hhath of the sacrament, and other days set apart for divine ser- ^^ on that occasion. In few parishes in Scotland, indeed, are ^® Wants of the poor more humanely attended to. An annual **®^tion of a cart of coals is made by Lord Douglas to every poor ^mily in xhe parish, upwards of 130 hearths being cheered by this "oe^ai present at the most inclement season of the year. In times ^'severe pressure from the dulness of trade, the poor have always ^ a certain resource in the liberality of his Lordship, who, with ^ ^ess judgment that beneficence, employs them in useful labour, *^y Which the place or the public is benefited, wliilc they are saved ^^n the degrading feelings and the evil habits that would result 496 LANARKSHIRE. from a dependence on mere eleemosynary relief. It is much be regretted that the fine spirit of independence which renders Scotsmen so reluctant to apply for charitable support is fast dyi away ; although it ought to be mentioned, to the praise of the pie of Douglas, that, how low soever the rate of wages, so long they can procure employment, they are industrious and uncomplai ing- Friendly Societies. — There are 4 friendly Societies in the towxi of Douglas, — the Society of Weavers, the Society of Free Masonsy the Friendly Society, and the Douglas Friendly Club. Th^ir funds are good : and being under judicious management, are p ductive of considerable benefit to their members, whom age infirmity have rendered incapable of earning a maintenance. There is a female religious society, whose funds are chiefly mitted to the Edinburgh Bible Society, and partly appropria' to other religious purposes. InTis. — Unfortunately for the morals of the people, there are fewer than 12 public houses in the parish, including the principal inns at Douglas and Douglas mill. Fairs, — Another circumstance very prejudicial to the morals ^>* the people is the number of feirs, of which there are 7 in tl*^ course of the year. These the working classes keep as holiday^ 5 and as few of them think of resuming their labours till the foUo'^''' ing week, there is a great loss of time, with a most ruinous wa^*^ of means. Most of these fairs might be abolished not only witho*^ detriment, but with great advantage to the place. Fuel. — Coal is here so abundant and cheap, that it is the ot^^^ fuel made use of, except in the remote parts of the parish, to whi^^ it would be difficult to have them conveyed. In such places p is used, which is generally of excellent quality. General Remarks. Upon the whole, the parish is in a flourishing and improving sta< The tenantry are active, intelligent, careful, and thriving; and th industry and enterprise are encouraged by the liberality, and stiim mulated by the example, of their generous and enlightened lam^^^ lord. Their character is in general most respectable, still retail ing many of the best traits by which the rural population of o country was in its best days distinguished. August 1835. Revised June 1836. i ■J PARISH OF CRAWFORDJOHN. PRESBYT£RT OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. WILLIAM GOLDIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The origin of the name cannot be easily disco- vered. Chalmers, in his Caledonia, relates a story on the sub- ject, with all becoming gravity, proceeding upon the supposition, that names of a similar construction are to be discovered every- where throughout Scotland. " John the son of Baldwin de Big- gar," he says, " held in the reign of Malcolm IV. a portion of this extensive mountainous district. He assumed the name of Crawford, and fixed his residence on Duneaton river, and from him the name of his settlement was called John's town, and in some charters it is designed villa Johannis privigni BaldwinniL" — " Before 1279 the district of Crawfordjohn," he continues, ^^ was established as a distinct parish, and the chapel of John's town became the parish church, hence the name of Crawfordjohn was af&xed to the pa- rish." But this summary mode of accounting for the name can- not be satisfactory to any one who recollects, that there are no au- thorities produced by him, and that it is not merely the only parish, but the only village (I presume) in. Scotland, which is designated by a Christian and family name, joined together in this awkward, unusual form. Extent and Boundaries^ S^c, — According to Forrest's map of the county, the length of the parish is between 11 and 12 miles, and its breadth between 9 and 10, and it contains 41.50 square miles, and 21,123 Scots acres. The figure of the parish is irregular. At the east end, it is only about 2 miles broad, h\xt it soon widens in both directions, till, from the most southern point near Leadhills to the north east at the source of Millbum, it is about 10 miles across ; higher up than this, it gradually becomes more narrow, till above Sheriffcleuch it lies all on one side of Duneaton, and, at the very top* is little more than one mile broad. On the east by north, it is separated from Roberton (now united to Wiston) by Millburn and AJuneaton, ; on the east, from Lamington and Crawford, by Clyde ; 498 LANARKSHIRE. on the south Glengonner, for about two miles, divides it from Craw- ford; and then the boundary is the ridge of the hills north of that stream, and as far as the county of Lanark reaches in that direc- tion ; on the west, it has the parishes of Sanquhar and Kirkconnel in Dumfrjes-shire, and Auchinleck and Muirkirk in Ayrshire, con- tiguous to it, from all of which it is separated by no natural boun- daries, except, in some places, by the ridge of the hills ; and, on the north, lies the parish of Douglas, separated from it by Duneaton for some miles from Cairn table downwards. This is the parish in Lanarkshire which unites with it the counties of Dumfries and Ayr, and, at one spot, this junction is indicated by the appellation, bestowed on a certain stone, of the ^^ three shire stone." Topographical Appearances. — This pariah may be said to con- sist of one large glen, along with the adjoining hills, ascending from Clyde at Abington to Cairntable on the borders of Ayrshire, which Ues entirely between Duneaton and Glengonner, where they fall into Clyde, but which gradually expands, so as soon to com- prehend both sides of Duneaton for eight or nine miles of its winding course, and also the glen through which Snar runs before falling into Duneaton, and several other glens with their tributary streams, and which is at last limited, and for several miles, to the lands on the south side of Duneaton. All the hills which ascend from the banks of the principal river, as well as of its tributaries, are flat on the top, of gentle acclivity, much diversified in their form and size, and generally clothed with excellent pasture. Several of them are apparently some hundred feet above the level grounds near the river, though I am not aware of any accurate measurement ever having been made of them ; and, perhaps, as exact a notion of their altitude, as is required, will be attained, when, instead of specifying indefinite particulars, it is mentioned that the village of Crawfordjohn may be about 200 feet lower than Leadhills, which is understood to be 1280 feet above the level of the sea, and that the top of Cairntable is 1650. There is no one so much elevated above the rest as to be remarkably conspicuous, Cairntable ex- cepted. Sot7.— Soil of almost every description is to be met with in the parish. By the side of Duneaton, some of the holms consist of a deep and rich loam, while others, being more exposed to inunda- tions, are gravelly and sandy. Upon the sides of some of the hills, there is a strong red clay, susceptible of high cultivation from ma- nure and draining ; and, upon the sides of others, the soil is not sufiiciently deep, and rather gravelly, requiring to be often ma- CRAWFORDJOIIN. 499 nured, and producing lolerablc crops, only when, in the early part of summer, the showers of rain are frequent All the croft lands are excellent, and present. many varieties of soil ; and, though at one time rather exhausted by cropping, yet lately they have been allowed to recover, and are now judiciously indulged with a rest during a few years of pasturage. All the mossy grounds are deep, and need both to be thoroughly drained, and to have gravel or hard 8oQ mixed with them, before the labours of husbandry can be exe- cuted; but as soon as the moss is reduced in quantity, and it is powblefor the plough to get through it, and the cart over it, the •bundant crops, even for three or four years in succession, reward the ^nner with an ample recompense. To any one who has been in tbe parish, it is superfluous to add, how many are the acres of deep ^"^ which hold out such encouragement to the active cultivator. CHmaie^ — The climate is particularly moist In addition to '^ tracts of incessant rain at every season, many are the showers *Kdi often fall every day, even in the course of the warmest and ^^'lest summer. Children are liable to croup, and many die of it; P^'Wms approaching puberty, or a few years past it, are often car- 7®*ioff by pulmonary complaints, and many of both sexes, but par- ^ciilarly women in the prime of life, suffer much from complaints ^ the stomach. Rheumatism prevails to a considerable extent, *^ at times affects persons of all ages and in all ranks. hydrography, — Duneaton is the only river, unless Snar and ■ '^ckbum be honoured with the same appellation. It rises at the ^^t of Caimtable, and runs the whole length of the parish, re- ^^ivingsuch a supply fi-om the almost numberless streams, which run ^^'^rn fit)m the hills on both sides of it, that for the last four or five *^iles of its course, it is at an average about 40 feet broad. Like *^* rivers in similar situations, it overflows its banks, after heavy f^«» or a dissolution of snow, and spreads over the adjoining ■^^Ims; and is liable to a change in its course and fords. Everj- '''Heie the finest springs of water are to be met with, and many of ^•^^m, not more agreeable to the taste, than fitted for all domestic I^^Tposes. In several places, there are chalybeate and petrifying 'Idlings; and one, a few yards off the public road near the thirty-third *^ile-stone from Glasgow, seems worthy of the careful examination ^* the chemist. Mineralogy. — It is the fixed opinion of the natives of this district, ^W many different minerals would be found in the parish, if at- ^^mpts to discover them were conducted upon a liberal scale, and \j scientific miners. The same range of hills, which proceeds from 500 LANARKSHIRE. Wanlockhead to Leadhills, and the highest points of which, at cer- tain places, constitute the boundaries of this parish, continues for seven or eight miles from the latter village, to the confluence of Dun- eaton and Clyde, having Glengonner on the south of it, and Duneaton part of the way on the north, and may reasonably be supposed to have veins of lead in it throughout the whole of its course: as, with- in these few years, a lead mine was profitably wrought at Snar's head, near its upper extremity ; as, within the memory of persons still alive, lead was got at Glendouran, near the middle ; and, as about eighteen years ago, there was a discovery of lead sufiiciently encouraging made at Craighead, within a mile of its lower extremit}'. There are vestiges of a work on the lands of Abington, which is reported to have been made in search of gold, and prosecuted with considerable success. In a manuscript journal of the move- ments of the Earl of Selkirk, in the beginning of last century, I have learned it was mentioned, that his Lordship came to Crawfordjohn, and " visited the silver mines, &c" which are de- clared by tradition to have been near the Kirkburn. When im- proving a road some years back, what was denominated the copper vein was again come upon, and several pieces of spar, with the cop- per in it, were to be seen lying scattered near the road ; and, upon the lands both of Glespin and Netherton, there have been repeat- ed indications of coal observed. And, certainly, any recent efforts upon these lands, or those of Whitecleugh and Lettershaws, were conducted in such a manner, and brought to an end so abruptly, that to any one of an enterprising spirit, a failure in these in- stances, will be regarded as nothing else than a powerful incitement to greater exertions. Zooloffy, — The adder, {Vipera communis^) weasel, hedgehog, and polecat, are often to be seen ; the otter, fox, and squirrel sel- dom. Black game, grouse, partridges, and hares are very nume- rous. About forty years ago, there was on the trees of Gilkerscleugh an extensive heronry, but in the course of time, and after many se- vere contests with their multiplying foes, the herons were killed or dispersed, and the victorious rooks occupied their place. Against the rooks in their turn a hot war by agents of another kind having raged for some years, powder and shot at last either destroyed or frightened them from their residence ; and, at the suggestion of a proprietor, alarmed for his fish ponds, the same effectual means were resorted to last spring, for the extermination of the few herons which had begun to congregate at Glespin. A solitary tame rab- bit, some years ago, formed an intimacy with a hare ; and the nume- CRAWFORDJOHN. 501 rous progeny, though in colour like the hare, were in shape and size liker the rabbit They did not exactly burrow, but excavated such holes that they were nearly concealed in them. It is under- stood that they have now all become the prey of the swift^footed collies.. A pair of fieldfares have twice remained the whole year, and built their nests near the manse. In the winter of 1834, a Carvus ffractdus or red-legged crow appeared in the vicinity of the village, and was shot A blackbird with a white head remained for some time, and was seen by many persons lately at Gilkcrs- cleugh ; and at Townhead the appearance of a black sparrow was an occasion of equal curiosity to many. The common trout is very numerous in all the burns and streams. The dark-coloured in Blackburn is still as famous as when the last Statistical Report was drawn up ; in it there are also eels, one of which I saw 2 feet 8 inches long. Unfortunately for those who enjoy the amusement of angling, persons from villages in the ad- jacent parishes are accustomed every season to come with nets, and contrive to destroy a greater number of trouts, than they find it possible^ or convenient to carry home. IL — Civil History. I have neither seen nor heard of any documents or papers which serve to throw light on the history of the parish, or which detail any remarkable events that have occurred in it ; and there is no tradition of persons having been born in it, who have become grejit- ly distinguished in the world. Mr Robert Davidson, father of the late Principal of the University of Glasgow, was minister here from 1713 to 1749; and his niemorj' is still cherished in the neigh- bourhood as an able and faithful pastor, who was always prepared for the emergencies of life ; who instantaneously penetrated the mo- tives of human conduct; and who, by his practical exposition of absur- dities, and his humorous representation of real occurrences, at once maintained the ascendancy of a superior mind, and contributed to the harmless amusement of his friends and associates. Mr Davidson -was succeeded by Mr William Millar, whose ministry was prolonged to fifty years ; a Nathaniel, indeed, as was declared of him in a fu- neral sermon, in whom there was no guile, and who, though unable, from his childlike simplicity, to relish the broad humour of his pre- decessor, or to enjoy with high zest the inimitably told stories, and inexhaustible wit of the kind-hearted neighbour,* who pronounced upon him the above merited panygeric, — yet, from his perfect ac- • The Rev. W. M- ed as arable, and nearly all the rest as pasture. The planta- tions at Glespin, Gilkerscleugh, and Abington do not cover, I ihink^ above 50 acres. They consist of Scotch fir, spruce, larch. CUAWFORDJOHN. 507 ash, plane, beech, lime, chestnut, and oak ; some of the oldest be- ing well grown, and of an excellent quality, About half an acre around the manse was planted seventeen years ago ; and besides the above, there are silver fir, birch, elms, alder, poplars, and wil- lows, which are thriving ; but they grow very slowly. I observe also two or three clumps lately planted, which, I presume, are intend- ed to prove by experiment, what time trees will take to reach ma- turity upon the poorest land, and in the most exposed situations. 1 have no doubt of them becoming, in forty or fifty years, large enough to aflbrd agreeable shelter to linnets and hedge-sparrows. Rent ofLdxnd. — Small pieces of land are let as high, perhaps, as L. 2 an acre. The average rent of the whole can be easily calcu- lated from the statement that shall be given. Grazing a cow may be estimated L. 3, and a sheep at 5s. Rate of Labour — The wages of good men-servants have, of late, been about L. 12 a year, and of women, L. 6. ; for mowing, the rate is 2s, a day with meat, and for other work. Is. 6d. ; wrights and masons get 2s. a day with victuals ; and slaters, 2s 6d. ; shep- herds have forty-eight or fifty sheep kept for them, which form part of the &nn-stock ; and they are also provided with victuals. It is customary to liire persons for harvest, who come and reside in the house, and receive from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2, 5s., according as the duration of harvest labour is short or long. Livestock and Produce. — All the sheep are black-feced, except one flock of fifteen scores, which are a mixed breed of the Cheviot and Leicester; the horses are of the Clydesdale breed; and the cattle of the Ayrshire. Great attention is paid to all of them, and most strenuous efforts are made to bring them to a state of the highest improvement Horses reared here have long been dispersed into all parts of the country ; and of late, cows of exquisite symmetry and most attractive beauty have been produced in greater num- bers, than could have Iteen anticipated by those, who have heard chiefly of our great elevation and unfavourable climate. Having received an account of the produce and stock of every distinct &rm, the following statement must make a near approxi- mation to the truth. There are 114 horses employed for working or riding; 36 do. young, but at least a year old ; 666 milch cows ; 403 young do. at least a year old; 31 bulls; 153 pigs; 507 scores of sheep; 620 bolls of oats sown, which produce 30 imperial bushels each boll; 36 do. bear; which produce 48 do.; 134 acres Scots of L.2535 2092 10 266 8 1072 248 478 10 1292 5 456 - 126 2331 403 • 108 10 mes 2&4 • 508 LANARKSHIRE. potatoes planted, which produce 40 bolls an acre ; 62 do. of tur- nips sown, which are worth L. 4 an acre. Oats and bear in the following table are calculated at the high- est Bars prices for 1834. The bolls mentioned are equal to 5.82512 imperial bushels. 10,140 sheep mt 5s. m head, ..... Oats, 2325 quarters, mt 188. .... Bear, 216 do. at L. 1, 48. 8d. Potatoes, 5360 bolls, at 4s. per boll of 25 imperial stones, Turnips, 62 acres Scots, at L. 4, - - Rye-grass hay, 19,140 stones at 6d. a stone of 17i imperial lbs. Meadow do. 77)^35 do at 4d. do. do. Pasturing of 1 1 4 horses, at L. 4, Do. 36 young do. at L. 3, and 10s. for foggage, Do. 6f''6 cows L. 3, and lOs. do. Do. 403 young cows, 15s. and 5s. for do. Do. 31 bulls, L. 3, and lOs. do. Whitecleugh and Glespin parks let for (the stock in them being at times changed, could not be easily counted,) ... L. 11,663 3 Besides the above, there were 6 bolls of pease sown ; of the 36 bolls of bear, 3 were really barley ; and all the present year's calves and foals are excluded. The valued rent is L. 2360, 6s. 8d. Scots. The real rent is L. 5925, 17s. 6d. Sterling, including L. 16, the rent of lime. The common practice, as to sheep, is to keep one hog or young one for every five ewes ; and the average is, that the fleeces of nine sheep weigh two stones, or forty-eight imperial lbs. As to cows, the cal- culation is, that, taking the whole in the byre, the quantity of sweet milk cheese made must be from fourteen to sixteen stones each ; twenty-two imperial lbs. being in the stone. In 1828, three cows were kept on the glebe, which calved near- ly at the same time in the beginning of May, were pastured dur- ing the day, and at night, and while the weather was excessively hot at mid-day, were fed in the house with clover and vetches. The family, consisting of five grown up persons and four children un- der seven years of age, were amply supplied with milk, butter, and cheese, during the whole year ; and the remaining value of produce from the cows amounted to L. 28, 14s. 2d. There were 71 stones 6^ lbs of cheese sold, and a fattened calf. Dairy produce from this parish is sold as advantageously in Ed- inburgh and Glasgow, as any brought from quarters of long-esta- blished celebrity. A few still make both butter and cheese. In one or two dairies, the curds of cows' milk and of ewes' milk being wrought separately, are put one upon the other into the same vat, and pressed ; in consequence of which the cheeses have two sides of different qualities, and have been by some so highly relished, CRAWFORDJOHN. 509 that the price got for them has been 50 per cent above what could be got for sweet milk cheese alone. Draining. — Surface draining has been carried onto a consider- able extent and very successfully ; but the draining of arable land has not been prosecuted with the same ardour, or conducted upon the most approved principles. Many fields have their appearance disfigured, and are rendered much more difficult to cultivate, by comers and plots of meadow or marshy ground in them, which could be drained at a very trifling expense. Irrigation is attend- ed to, and productive of many of its usual benefits ; but these be- nefits would be more extensive and more durable, were care taken to level the sur&ce. Several large meadows would, in the course of a few years, repay the expenditure of L. 200 or L. 300 in level- ling them. LeaseSf Farm Buildings^ and Fences. — The leases are generally for fifteen or nineteen years. The farm-houses and offices are not in a good state. No one set of them has been built according to any plan ; in consequence of this, there is no correspondence be- tween the constituent parts of the whole, and ample accommoda- tion is not in fact provided, even when the houses are really nume- rous. A great want of enclosures is still apparent, although many miles of dry stone dikes have been lately erected. Tenants would soon feel, in their comfortable experience, how much the management of their business is facilitated and their con- venience promoted by order and cleanliness, could they get their houses constructed in conformity with their wants, and with a spe- cial view to dairy husbandry : their boiler and milk-houses, for in- stance, placed near their byres, and connected with them by doors ; and their dwelling-houses with at least two doors in them, and a separate approach to each, so that there might be no necessity for every visitor treading in the path marked out by the cows. All their offices ought to be slated ; and the expense of this they them- selves had better incur at the beginning of their leases, than be al- most every year employed thatching.* Thorn hedges grow well and rapidly, — as may be seen around the manse: and two or three fields, enclosed by them on every farm, would afford admirable shelter to the cows, at particular seasons, and during wet, stormy weather. The crofls are well fitted for such enclosures, and in eight or nine years, a hedge, properly ma- * In the building of all dwelling-houses, whinstone should be used, lor every kind of freestone is porous, and draws damp in this wet country. Masons should be taught to cut the whinstone with hammers of different sizes, as they do the granite at Aber- ^isen ; and with a little care, whinstone thus cut presents a very agreeable appearance. 510 LANARKSHIRE. naged, makes a sufficient fence. If this system were once begun, it could not fail to be universally approved of, and no difficulty would occur in selecting such portions of land, as do not expose the hedges to the sheep. These are all matters to which the proprietors themselves ought to look ; and, in addition to their encouragement of agriculture, by laying out money on houses and dikes, and charging their tenants six per cent for it, it would be no injury to their real interest, if they got an architect to plan suitable buildings, which, with slight mo% difications, might be convenient for all, and provided these at the beginning of every lease : and if they both planted hedges and em* ployed workmen to keep them in order. Trees undoubtedly should be planted upon a large scale in many situations, but at first in hol- low sheltered places by the sides of burns, and on good land ; and then, as they grow up, desirable shelter would be furnished by them ; and plantations might thus, in the course of time, reach the tops of the highest hills. The lazy streams, with deep stagnant pools, should all be made straight ; which would at the same time increase the rapidity of their currents, and render draining less laborious and expensive. Blackburn, particularly, should undergo this change, as on the surface and along the sides of it, the first threatenings of frost are always observed. From the leases should be removed those re- strictions to which, in most cases, it is reckoned inexpedient to make the tenants submit And, when it is mentioned, that for some lands a multure of a seventeenth part is exacted, a most satisfying proof is surely adduced of the necessity that exists, for exempting from every form and degree of this bondage. Were these reasonable altera- tions all introduced, and direct encouragement in this manner given to skilful farmers, it could not but happen, that tenants, who, left entirely to themselves, and struggling against many disadvantages, have manfully surmounted many obstacles in their progress, would advance with accelerated speed in the course of improvement, and tread upon the heels of those, who imagine they are at an inunea- surable distance before them. QuarrieSy Sfc, — Two quarries of freestone are wrought, and many of whinstone. There is one lime-work at Whitecleugh ; but tlie greatest quantity of lime is procured at Wildshaw, on the borders of the parish, and about three miles from the village. A lead mine, a few years since, was opened on the lands of Snar, and the ap- pearances were reported to be most encouraging. They are at present working it. Society for Stock. — Last year the parishes of Crawford and Craw- CRA WFURDJOHK. 5 1 1 fordjobn formed an association for the exhibition of stock. Most of the tanners joined it, and several of the heritors sent subscrip- tions : and the various kinds of stock produced both years were highly commended, as well by the judges, who determined the com- parative excellences of each lot, as by the many experienced agri- culturists, who assembled from the adjacent counties. Above a dozen of tenants and subtenants, besides labouring their respective lands, employ their horses in driving coals to Mof- tat, Leadhills, and Wanlockhead. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'TownSy Sfc. — At Douglas, distant six miles through the moor, and eight by the road, a little business is occasionally trans- acted ; but Biggar, distant fourteen miles, and Lanark sixteen miles from Crawfordjohn, must be reckoned our nearest market-towns. Letters come both by Douglas and Leadhills every day, and to the latter place we enjoy almost daily access by the coal carts. There are five miles of the Glasgow and Carlisle road in this pa- rish, and nearly the same of the Biggar and Leadhills. Along the one, the Edinburgh and Dumfries coach passes, and along the other, the Glasgow and Carlisle mail, up and down every day. Only one bridge is entirely in the parish, over Duneaton, and on the Glasgow road : The parish, however, is connected with the parishes of Crawford and Roberton by two bridges, — one over Duneaton, and another over Glengonner. The parochial roads are 33 miles long, which have been kept in repair during the last ten years at an yearly average rate of L. 80, J 8s. 9d. There are 29^ ploughgates, as fixed in 1807 ;. and L. 2, 2s. for each of them, 10s. 6d. for every supernumerary horse, and 3s. from every householder, make up the above sum. In the upper quarters of the parish, and more than four miles firom the manse, there are no made roads. Ecclesiastical State. — " At John's-town," Chalmers says, "a cha- pel was erected, which was for some time dependent on the parish church of Wicestoun. This grant was confirmed by William the Lion, and the monks afterwards obtained from Walter the Bishop of Glasgow, in 1232, a confirmation of the church of Wicestoun with the two chapels of John's-town and Robertoun," Again he says, " an account of the property of the monastery of Kelso, made up by the monks between 1309 and 1316, states that they had the church of Crawfordjohn in rectoria, which used to be worth L. 6, 13s. 4d. yearly. The monks of Kelso appear to have relinquished this church some time before 1450, when it appears to have been an independent rectory. In Bagimont's Roll, as it stood in the 512 LANARKSHIRE. reign of James V., the rectory of Crawfordjohn in the deanery of Lanark was taxed L. 10, Ids. 4d." The church is situate conveniently enough for the greater part of the population, — is only 4 miles distant from one extremity of the parish, but between 11 and 12 from the other. It was en- larged and newly seated in 1817, is in a tolerable state of repair, and accommodates 272, independently of the communion seat, which accommodates 38 or 40, and may be considered free. The attend- ance in church is, on the part of a great many, exactly what it ought to be, viz. as regular as the return of the Sabbath. The number of communicants is from 360 to 370 ; and the average of young communicants for the last twenty years is 19, and nearly J.* 137 male heads of families are entitled to exercise the veto. There are 20 persons who belong to the Relief, 12 to the Unit — ed Associate, and 8 to the Reformed Presbyterian, Synods. Im. 1816, the same denominations in their order numbered as follows: 51, 8, 4 ; and the variation in the two last has been quite acciden- tal ; two strangers belonging to the latter of the two having com^ into the parish, and being joined by other two who left the Relief^ and no fewer than ten having come amongst us who belonged t/» the former. Some strangers, lately arrived, are not in communiom with any denomination of Christians ; and all the rest belong to the Established Church. On the day of the General Assembly's fast, * In the Presbytery records there arc various particulars in regard to m vacancjT in Crawfordjohn. The first entry is 1st March 1704, ** absent John Bryce, remoT- ed by death." Then 1st November 1704, it was proposed to give a call to T. Lin* ning to succeed Mr Bryce ; but, difficulties having occurred to prevent this bein^ done, after considerable delay, Lord Selkirk and his dependents wished to have James Wilson, while another heritor and his adherents were desirous of havio|^ Matthew Wood, and another party proposed to reconcile both these, by giving m call to a third. Protests were the consequences of these unfortunate proceedings, and the business was carried before the Synod and General Assembly, whose decision^ were adverse to the views of all these zealous parties. At last Mr Robert Lang wa* appointed to preach, at Crawfordjohn, 26th December 1708; but in a representation by certain parishioners conveyed to the Presbytery, it is stated " how John Weir of Newton, bailie to Lord Selkirk, James Gray, chamberlain, George Irving, clerk^ and Robert Galloway, kirk-officer, went into the church with candles, on the Satur^ day night, and nailed such doors as wanted locks, and put the key in Gray*s custody^ so that Mr Lang had to preach in the cburch-yard ; and caused the officer to go t9 several of the tenant's houses, and discharged them to hear Mr Lang preach, (albeit* little obedience was given to his commands,) &c.*' After Mr Lang was ordained^ 9th March 1709, (a vacancy of five years having taken place,) to a question of the Presbytery, as to his peaceable possession of the manse, he replied " he had none at all, for Gray had taken off the old locks, and put on new ores, and refused to give him the same." The Presbytery appointed a letter to be written to the Lord Advo- cate, who replied, " he was fully satisfied that Gray was guilty of a ryot in what be had done, and that application should be made to the Justices of the Peace to make open doors, and repossess Mr Lang in the manse of Crawfordjohn," and the Pres- bytery advised him to cause it be put in execution. The kirk, session was ordered to cite the dignified chamberlain to appear before the Presbytery, to answer for his conduct in carrying off the church key. CRAWFORDJOHN. 513 individuals of all these denominations, and one of them an elder, were in the parish church^-^a most severe reproof to their own pastors, which should never be forgotten by them. There is a Bible Society whose contributions amount to L. 5 yearly. The manse was built in 1803, and has been repaired during my incumbency every four or five years. The glebe is rather more than 8 Scotch acres, and would let for L. 16. The stipend is 15 chalders, half meal and half barley, with L. 8, 6s. dd. for com- munion elements. The average of the last seven years, including the communion allowance, is L, 244, 2s. 10|d. In 1755 it was L, 51, 4s. 5d. In 1803 it was L. 75, Ids. 4d. ; then it was aug- mented to L. 110, at which it remained till 1818, when the last augmentation was got. The minister has also a right to fiiel, feal, foggage, and divot, on the farm of Balgray, worth from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2 yearly. Education, — There is one parochial school. The teacher has the legal accommodations, and a salary of L. 32, 10s., which, along with his school fees and other emoluments, makes his income on an average Lb 65. He teaches English, writing, arithmetic, geography, and the Latin, Greek, and French languages. At pre- sent, he has 3 advanced scholars, the 2 oldest only fourteen years old, and the youngest eleven years old; who have read the usual por- tions of the Latin classics, and lately have gone through three books of Livy, and nearly the whole of Horace, who are regular- ly drilled upon grammar, are acquainted with mythology and Ro- man antiquities, and accustomed to write Latin verses. Two of the gospels in Greek have been read by them, and some of Pro- fessor Dunbar's Collectanea Minora ; and, at the same time, they have acquired some knowledge of geography, and wrought almost all the accounts in Gray's Arithmetic. They are about to begin the study of French. The average number of scholars for the last ten years is 79 ,^5. At Abington there is a private school, and one of the heritors gives a salary of K 6. Of late no other branches have been re- quired to be taught than English, writing, and arithmetic. The average of scholars for the last ten years is 34. Children do not usually go to school till they are about six years old ; and all learn both to read and write, the parents being alive to the benefits of education, and several of them submitting to severe privations, that their continuance at school may be prolonged. In the remote parts of the parish, it is customary for families to associate together in getting a young person, who teaches all their children assembled 514 LANARKSHIRE. in one place ; and for whose maintenance and salary they contribute in proportion to the number of pupils. There is little likelihood of these thinly inhabited districts being ever provided with endow- ed schools. Library and Friendly Society. — More attempts than one been made to get a parish library permanently established; but lo cal circumstances have always proved unpropitious, and, after e^ a few years, the books collected have come to be divided among subscribers. A Friendly Society existed from 1799 till 1833^ when it was thought prudent to dissolve it Poor and Parochial Funds. — A most pernicious change h been going on in the habits and views of the poor ; the full co quences of which may be anticipated, though as yet they are vei imperfectly developed. In 1817, only 7 were on the roll, and the subsequent fifteen years, the average number was 9j^y, wh< maintenance was derived from the collections, the interest of moi lodged in the bank, and a part of the principal. Now, there ar ]5 families and individuals on the roll, to whom the highest su". given is 12s. and the lowest ds. a month ; and, the lying moi having been all expended, the heritors have voluntarily themselves for three years in L. 25, L. 40, and L. 50 respectiveK^-^sly. In the beginning of 1832, the session found it necessary to declir -^Ene taking any farther management of the poor ; and satisfy thei selves with distributing half of the collections, &c. to such as are on the roll, or require any extraordinary aid. No discovery ing been made of any means of giving employment to aged men, who formerly gained a sustenance by spinning, it must voidably happen that applications for parochial assistance will crease in number every year ; and it is quite obvious, that, wh< ever the management is left solely with the heritors, there will b< be a gradual diminution of the collections, and a more unhesitati-i-^^"8 determination, on the part of the poor, to extort from their gr^^ ^P every farthing that it is possible to obtain. Fairs. — No fair is held for the transaction of business; but -:^^^ 26th July there is an assemblage of all the inhabitants, who sin-^ '^^"' scribe for horse and foot races, indulge in social intercourse, a-^^ ^ treat their children with toys and sweetmeats. Innsy Sfc. — In this parish, there are no fewer than 8 houses in whi spirituous or malt liquors are sold. In 1819, the Justices of upper ward issued most excellent regulations, requiring all apj cants for licenses to have certificates from their parish minist< CRAWFORDJOHN. 515 To these regulations, however, it is much to be regretted, the Jus- tices themselves have not uniformly adhered. RieL — Peats of various kinds can be easily got on many farms, and are still used in considerable quantities by several feunilies. They are certainly expensive, and are perceived to be so by all who keep accurate acc6unts, and form a proper estimate of labour ; and therefore in time they will be less used. Coal is cheap and more convenient, for all purposes, — a cart of it containing between 9 and 10 cwt. costs 2s. at Glespin or Ridgeside in Douglas; and the driving to the village costs 2s. 6d. more. Miscellaneous Observations. From a register kept by one of the farmers in a centrical part of the parish, I perceive that, from 1812 to 1835, inclusive, the earliest day when he began sowing was 14th March 1821, and the latest 4th April 1827; that the earliest day when he ended his sowing was 1 st April 1828, and the latest dOth April 1827 ; that the earliest day when be began reaping was 8th August 1826, and the latest I6th September 1816; that the earliest when he finished reaping was 2d September 1826, and the latest 28th October 1816. In 1762, the rental of Gilkerscleugh lands was L. 177, 15s. 6;d. ; in 1802 it was L. 522, 10s. ; and in 1835 it is L. 1 100. I have seen a copy of a receipt of the Laird of Glespin, dated 13th November 1694, for L. 5, lis. 4d. Scots, half a year's rent for Slimanford and Sheriffcleugh, which is 18s. 6§d. Sterling a-year Now Sheriffcleugh is let for L. 80 ; Slimanford is let along with Shawhead for L. 1 70, and is accounted the third of its value, so that we have in 1694, 18s. 6|d. and in 1 835, L. 136, 13s. 4d. The differences betwixt the present state of the parish and that at the time when the former Account was written, are many and evi- dent In that Account, it is said there were about 20 farms ; now there are 33, besides small pieces let at Abington, and 4 are join- ed together so as to make only 2. In it, 20 ploughs are said to have been kept, which laboured merely 30 acres each, making in all 600 acres; now, there are 114 horses; 620 bolls of oats are sown, 36 of bear, 196 acres are in green crops, and 19, 140 stones of rye-grass hay are raised. In it, the number of black-cattle is said to have been considerable, — now, there are 666 milch cows, 403 young cows, and 31 bulls. At the time of the former Account, there was no proprietor who had his lands separated by any fence from those of his neighbour; now, not only is this in every instance done, but there are only three farms in the least improved quarter, which are not fenced off from each other ; and the rest are likewise sub- 516 LANARKSHIRE. divided more or less, by several distinct and convenient enclo- sures. Dairy husbandry should be principally looked to, in the cultiva- tion of the land, and cropping should be followed no longer than is necessary for preparing the land to be laid out in pasture. No return of oats or bear, during the currency of a lease, remunerates the farmer. Turnips should be sown more extensively ; and the use of bone dust enables every one to do this, while frost never destroys them. And additional divisions of the land by fences will render it quite convenient to eat off the turnips with sheep. The great, expensive operations of straightening Blackburn and two or three other streams, of draining ^' flow mosses," and of plant>- ing for shelter, ought to be executed under the eye of the pro- prietors, and at their expense. Or, if it be imagined the planta- tions might be injured from the carelessness of the tenants, let it be a part of the agreement that, whatever trees any one may have planted, shall be taken from him at a valuation at the end of his lease. LiCt direct encouragement be given to the industrious and enterprising, either in the form of a premium for every acre re- claimed, or for every signal improvement introduced, or by a re- newal of the leas^, upon more moderate terms, than would be of- fered by other competitors for the farm. Let the two proprietors, who are most interested, exert themselves to have the coal road made along the side of Glespin lane, and to meet the principal pa- rish road a little below Eastertown ; from which, a mighty advan- tage would accrue to the inhabitants in getting cheap coal, and an equal advantage would be enjoyed by these proprietors themselves, as the old coal road might then be shut up, and the flocks on Craw- fordjohn, Mosscastle, and Andershaw farms would be permitted t(^ feed undisturbed by travellers. Let a stone bridge be thrown ove'^^ Duneaton below the village and towards Leadhills, and anothes--^ over Blackburn, — a better road being made to meet the Glasgo^^r and Edinburgh roads ; and then few causes for complaint abo vat roads would exist Prejudices in favour of local practices are fast dying away ; t-Vie intelligent and cautious look anxiously around them, and can ^^^" certain what is most conducive to their own interest; and were ^i^^ countenance given them, the proprietors might rest assured, tl"*^*^ are many at present in the parish, who, while contemplating, in *-*^^ first place, the welfare of themselves and families, will adopt s«-^^ views, and carry forward such measures, as shall finally promote *-** improvement of their property. June 1836. a PARISH OF CARMICHAEL. PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. WILLIAM LAMB, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish has retained the same name for time imme- morial. It was probably placed under the tutelage of Saint Michael when it was only of a very limited extent, perhaps a chapelry found- ed by some ancestor of the family of Carmichael; and it afterwards retained the same name, and claimed the patronage of the same saint, when its dimensions were enlarged by the. annexation of a part of the contiguous parish of Douglas. The probability is, that it was so named from the saint under whose protection it was placed, and that some ancestorpf the principal, perhaps then sole, proprietor of the parish, assumed the same name. There are several places io the parish which still retain the names of saints in the Romish calendar, such as St MichaeVs Well andJioffj now happily drained and very productive : and Bride's Close — evidently consecrated to St Bride or Bridget. Extent and Boundaries. — The extreme length of the parish in a south-west and north-east direction, from near Mount Stuart, in the parish of Douglas, to Millhill, in the parish of Pettinain, is 6 miles, and its extreme breadth, from the top of Tinto to the con- fluence of the Clyde and Douglas Water, is very nearly 5 miles. Its mean length and breadth may be reckoned 5 by 3^ miles ; and it contains at least an area of 18 square miles. In Forrest's map of the county of Lanark, the area is stated to be 18^ square miles. But, according to the measurement of the lands belong- ing to the different proprietors, and which has been put into my hands, the area does not much exceed 18 square miles. A line drawn from the top of Tinto along the summit of its western ridge, until it reaches the parish of Douglas, forms the boundary be- tween it and Wiston parish on the south. A line drawn nearly at right angles with the preceding, from the south-west point of the parish, and terminating at Douglas Water below the coal-work, LANARK. L 1 >18 LANARKSHIRE. divides it from Douglas on the west ; and Douglas Water is the boundary between it and Lesmahagow on the north-west. The Clyde, from its confluence with Douglas water to Millhill, divides it from the parish of Lanark on the north. It is bounded by the parishes of Pettinain and Covington on the east. The boundary line by which the parish is surrounded, as exhibited on the Dfiap, is very irregular. The surface of the parish presents a very unequal and diversi- fied aspect, the mountain range of Tinto looking down from a commanding elevation upon the several hills and valleys which lie at its base, and sending from its rocky caverns many tributary streams, to the Clyde and Douglas- Water. Tinto, it has often been said, signifies the hill of fire; but whether it was so called from the fires which were kindled upon it at Beltane, or in the be- ginning of May, in honour of some tutelary deity, or on whatever other occasion, I do not presume to determine. The hills of a secondary order are Carmichael, Drumalbin, Whitecastle, Cross- ridge, and Stonehill, some of them rising to a considerable height, though of a diminutive size, compared with Tinto. Very different elevations have been assigned to Tinto. The difference may be easily traced to the different points where the measurement com- mences. The highest point of the cairn or heap of stones on the sinnmit is 1740 feet above the Clvde at Thankerton, and 2351 above the Clyde at the old bridge of Glasgow. Colonel Roy's ba- rometrical measurement gave 2432 feet. As the lowest parts of the parish are washed by the Clyde, the average elevation of the whole must be considerably above 600 feet. Topographical Appearances, — The general aspect of the parish is rather liillv than mountainous. The intervenincr vallevs and ac- clivities have very different soils. The southern acclivities are ge- nerally the most fertile. The land towards the Clyde is of a thin sandy soil. In some parts of the parish, it is a pretty deep loam; but the greater proportion of the arable land is a clayey and we* soil, resting on a substratum of cold impervious till, or ferruginoti clay, mixed with water-rolled stones of almost every descriptio Unless a considerable depth of this subsoil be expo.^ed to the m liorating influence of the sun and air, no beneficial improvemer can be made upon the surface. When it is turned up, hi or some other earth should be mixed with it, in order to less its adhesive quality. It is probable it may, some years hence, the operation of a subsoil plough, or some other means, be cc CARMKJHAEL. 519 pelled to contribute something more towards increasing the sub- sistence of man and beast. There is a good deal of clayey soil, resting on clay slate and greywacke slate, as productive as any land in the parish. The reason is obvious, — the water is readi- ly percolated through the fissures of the rock. Hydrography, — This parish has for part of its boundary line, as has been stated, the Clyde and Douglas Water, and is inter- sected and watered by several burns or small rivulets, which have their sources in the high range of hills which form its southern boundary. Three of these streams, with their tributary rills, flow into Douglas Water, and four into the Clyde. There is a suflS- ciency of water-power for working all the thrashing-mills in the parish, had the farms been otherwise divided, and the farm-houses built in those localities where advantage might have been taken of this power which Nature has so liberally afforded. There are many fine springs in the parish, but I am not aware that any of them have been chemically analysed. There is a natural j«/ d^eau close by one of the rivulets, and the side of a morass, and which throws up the finest sand. The average temperature of the springs^ I am inclined to think, must range between 45^ and 47^ Fahr. The temperature of six or seven of them on Tinto, from near the top to the base, was ascertained, 15th December 1836, when the tem- perature of the atmosphere was 24, to be between 36"" and 42°. The temperature of the water must have been cooled by the at- mosphere or the stones near the surface. At any rate, as the ex- periment was made by a person not trained to scientific exactness, I cannot vouch for its accuracy. Geology and Mineralogy. — This parish contains abundant ma- terials for the investigation of the geological student. Tinto seems to belong to the same formation as the Pentland Hills. It was surveyed by the late Dr Macknight, and the result of his sur- vey was communicated to the Wernerian Society, and published in the second volume of their Transactions, in 1818. To this sur- vey I beg to refer, as containing many accurate observations, ^d some probable conjectures concerning the internal structure of the mountain, and the formation on which it rests. As some quarries have been recently opened on the south and west side for metal to the roads, greater facilities are now afforded for a mi- neralogical survey. A shaft was also dug a few years ago, to a considerable depth, through a vein of heavy spar, in the Howgate Mouth, in the expectation of finding lead ore ; but the search was S20 LANARKSHIRE. at last relinquished, though the heavy spar, being of the same kind with that at Leadhills, indicated, in the opinion of the workmen* the vicinity of lead ore. Leaving it to more skilful geologists to assign to their proper epochs or formations the different strata of the parish, I shall mention a few of the more conspicuous ones. The greater part of the parish seems to consist of the old red sand- stone rock, forming an excellent material for building either houses or dry stone fences, and sometimes vulgarly called ruble or rag- stone. It forms a great part of Carmichael, Whitecastle, and Drumalbin Hills. The next rock is compact felspar and felspar porphyry. On the hill which lies north of the manse, the feh^r porphyry is found in juxtaposition with the old red sandstone, in an overlying position, both rocks inclining to the north-west In the Crossridge hill, or rising ground to the south-east of the manse, there is a stratum of clay slate, vulgarly called camstane^ passing into greywacke slate, dipping to the north-west, at an angle of 35^, under a conglomerate sandstone. In ascending the rivulet which flows between the two hills, a stratum of greywacke slate is seen dipping under another stratum of red sandstone. Stonehill consists wholly of the new sandstone formation, and con- tains an excellent quarry, from which are carried annually many tons of hewn stone. In the western extremity of the parish, the independent coal formation occurs, including many valuable seams of coal. In the indurated clay, in the limestone and sandstone, dipping under the lowest coal seam, which crops out near the bridge over Ponfeigh burn, are found in great abundance bivalves of the genus Productus^ also Crinoidce^ and vegetable remains. The valley or plain bounded by Tinto, Crossridge, and Drumalbin Hills, consists of a very deep alluvial deposit, composed of gravel and clay, or what is called till, containing water-rolled stones of al- most every description. One very large block, near the Side farm- house, laid bare by the action of the burn, detached from some quartzy rock, contains many curious organic remains. In a stone fence near the church, is found a large block of gneiss, which has probably been carried by a current of water, and deposited in the alluvial soil, as no rock of that formation is to be found within a great distance. Near Douglas Water are several alluvial de- - posits, consisting of rounded hills or ridges of sand or gravel* lying in the direction of east and west, and nearly parallel to tk* Tinto range. Before quitting the geology of the parish, the writer of this t CARMICHAEL. 521 count cannot resist^the temptation of remarking, that some of the theories concerning the past and future state of the earth, formed as they have been on too limited an induction, are ingenious and amusing, and may terminate in the establishment of one grand and satis&ctory theory. The inference which has been drawn from the absence of animal remains in the primitive formations, and from the fossil remains, in the secondary and transition formations, of many species of animals now extinct, that the earth existed long before the creation of man, is at least equally warrantable as the hypothesis of an ingenious speculator, concerning the indefinite per- fectibility and destinies of the human race, that the earth, after un- dergoing some great changes, may become the habitation of a rac« of intelligent beings, as superior to man as he is to its present irra- tional animals. Zoology. — The zoology of the parish is not entitled to much notice, being such as usually characterizes the higher and inland districts of Scotland. The black and red grouse are abundant The pheasant has been lately introduced. In the plantations within the pleasure-grounds of Carmichael and Eastend, the com- mon singing -birds are very numerous. Their musical notes, how- eyer delightful, scarcely compensate the depredations which they commit on the garden fruitage. It would be easy to furnish a complete list of all the animals which either constantly frequent, or occasionally visit the parish ; but an enumeration of this kind, containing the provincial and zoological names, could not be very useful or interesting. The mention of a few will be sufficient Blackbird, Turdus merula Brown-linnet, Fringilla cannabina Thrush, Turdus musicus Mountain-Linnet, Fringilla raontana Bullfinch, Pyrrhula vulgaris Goldfinch, Fringilla carduelis Chaffinch, Fringilla Coclebs Grccn-linnet, Coccothraustes chloris. In the pastoral and less cultivated parts of the parish, the ears of the shepherd are delighted with the shrill notes of the Curlew, Numenius arquata Grccn-plover, Cbaradrius pluvialis. Lapwing, Vanellus cristatus The banks of the streamlets are frequented by the Water^uiel, Cinclus aquaticus Yellow. wagtail, Motacilla flava Sandpiper, ToUnus Hypoleucos Heron, Ardea cinerea Blue-wagUiil, Motacilla cserulea Snipe, Scolopaz Gallinago. The Clyde, Douglas Water, and their tributary streams are '^ell stored with Trout, Salmo Fario Eel, Anguilla vulgaris Kke, Eaox Lucius Perch, Perca fluviatilis. Botany. — The botany of this parish is closely allied to that of ^e Pentlands, comprehending a range of altitude from 700 Ui 522 LANARKSHIRE. 2300 feet above the sea level. A few of the rarer plants are spe- cified. Bull-rush, Sciqms lacustris, in the Field gentian. Gentians campestris Clyde Cowslip or paig1e» Primula veris. Car- Buck-bean, Menyanthes trifoUata michael Parks Grass of Parnassus, Parnassia palustris Red bilberry, Vaocinium vitis-Idea, near Marsh cinquefoil, Comarum palustre summit of Tinto Chara vulgaris, near Redmire Cloudberry, Rubus Chamannorus Sheep's scabious, Jasione montaua^ near Alpine club^moss, Lycopodium alpinum Netherton Iceland lichen, Cetraria Islandica. John, Third Earl of Hyndford, between the years of 1740 and 1760, added much to the beauty of his pleasure-grounds, by the introduction of foreign trees, of which many still survive as mo- numents of his elegant taste, l^he pines are magnificent and beautiful Silver fir, Pinus picea Hemlock spruce, Pinus Canadensb Black spruce, Pinus nigra Cedar of Lebanon, Pinus Cedrus White spruce, Pinus alba Tulip-tree, Liriodendron tulipifera. Balm of Gllead pine, Pinus balsamen The aged and lofty trees about Carmichael House, chiefly of an exotic kind, indicate an old baronial residence, and beget feel- ings of regret that it should remain unoccupied. * II. — Civil History. Mapsy Charters^ Sfc. — The writer of this Account is not aware of the existence of any separate history of the parish, either in print or manuscript, except what is contained in the last Statistical Account, by his late very respectable friend and predecessor, the Rev. Robert Inglis. The parish does not appear to have been the scene of any itn-' portant events, either of a civil or military nature, sufficient to attract notice, or to obtain a place in the page of history. The best map of the parish is contained in Forrest's map of the county. Each pro- prietor, I believe, has a separate plan and survey of his own lands, containing not only a description of the boundaries and extent, but also of the kinds of soil. In Carmichael and Westraw Houses, be- longing to the principal proprietor and patron of the parish, there are several valuable papers, and a few pictures of potentates and other personages, who acted thidr parts on the theatre of the world, dur- ing the first half of the last century, — obtained a considerable share of admiration and applause, — and secured for their names and deeds, by the pen of the historian, a more lasting remem- brance than could be accomplished by the pencil of the artist. The armoury of Carmichael House contained a great variety of * All the animals and plants which have been specified in the above article, liavo come under my own notice, while in company with my friend, the Rev. Or ThoniM Aitken, to whose assistance I am indebted. CARMICHAEL. 523 arms, of curious construction and beautiful workmanship. After the succession of the Carmichaels of Mauldslie to the estate and titles, they were removed to Mauldslie Castle ; and upon the suc- cession of the Anstruthers of Elie, they found a receptacle in Elie House in Fife. — Sic transit gloria muTidi, Beside charters and other papers in Carmichael House, there are in Westraw House, twenty-three foHo volumes, of very inte- resting correspondence between the late John, Third Earl of Hyndford, and different Courts. The information they contain is interesting to all who have a taste for reading the transactions of the corps diplomatique^ during a considerable portion of his Lordship's life, and may be useful to some future historian of that period. Eminent Men. — Under the head of eminent characters, con- nected with the parish, John Earl of Hyndford, to whom allusion has been made, has a just claim to be ranked in the first place. He was born, according to the last Statistical Account, in this pa- rish, but according to Douglas's Peerage, in Edinburgh, 15th April 170], and after occupying many eminent stations, being several times a representative of royalty both in the church and state, he died at Carmichael House, 19th July 1767, having com- pleted his sixty-sixth year. The distinguished appointments which he held, and the honours conferred upon him, afford an incontesti- ble proof that his talents as a statesman were of the highest order. He was chosen several times one of the sixteen representatives of the Scottish peerage, and was appointed Lord Lieutenant of the county of l^anark, and twice Lord High Commissioner to the General Assembly in 1739 and 1740. As Envoy Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary in 1741 to the King of Prussia, his mediation between that monarch and the Queen of Hungary and Bohemia was successful in terminating their differences by a treaty of peace, signed at Breslaw 1st June 1742. His next appointment as ambassador was to the Court of Russia in 1744 — where he con- tinued till 1749, and was instrumental in settling the peace of Aix*la-Chapelle. After his return to BriUiin in 1750, he was sworn a Privy-Councillor, and appointed one of the Lords of the Bed- chamber — ^but was soon despatched as Ambassador to the Court of Vienna. He held this appointment from 1752 till 1764, when he* was appointed Vice- Admiral of Scotland. He spent the re- mainder of his life at his house in this parish, enjoying the im- provements he had made upon his estate, and still projecting and 524 LANARKSHIRE. carrying on additional improvements until the day of his deaU From the improvements which he completed upon his estates, boi in this and the adjoining parishes, and from plans which he co templated, but which he left unexecuted, it is evident that he m have possessed very enlarged and comprehensive views. They in advance of the age in which he lived, and the plans which formed and completed, exhausted more than the rental of b estates. There were enclosed and subdivided about 1200 Scot — acres, and the stone and earthen fences were said to measure thir five miles. The inclosures, of various dimensions, were surro ed by belts of plantation, and ornamented, according to the ta of that time, with clumps of trees of different sorts. Though much thinned by the ravages of time, and the axe of the fores there is still a sufficient remainder to attest the correct design taste of the contriver. Many thousands of trees have since planted by his successors, and by which the beauty and valu the estate have been greatly increased. In a Statistical Account of the parish it may be interesting, bef^*^^^^ finishing the different branches of its civil history, to exhibit a *^- bular view of the successive generations of the family of Carmicls- *^^* from 1850 to the present year. From William de Carmichael, nm^^ ^" tioned in a charter of the lands of Ponfeigh in 1350, to Sir Wy ^^^* ham Carmichael Anstruther, the present proprietor, in 1837, ^ '*" elusive, there have been twenty-two generations, during a per*^ of 486 years, each generation having had an average occupanc^^ twenty-two years. Their names are as follows : 1. William de Carmichael, 2. John de Carmichael, 1388; 3. W^illiamde Carmichael, 14 4. Sir John de Carmichael, 1422 ; 5. William de Carmichael, 1 6. Sir John de Carmichael, 1485, of Nethertown of Carmich 7. William Carmichael, 1509, of Cruickitstane ; 8. William michael of Carmichael, 1532, Overtown and Nethertown ; 9. J Carmichael, 1540; 10. Sir John Carmichael, 1580, of Wray Longherdmanstown ; 11. Sir Hugh Carmichael, 1593, marr^ Abigail daughter of William Baillie of Lamington ; 12. Sir J Carmichael, 1619; 13. Sir James Carmichael, 1627, of Hyndfijr- raised to the Peerage by Charles I. in 1647 — descended fr Walter of Hyndford and Park, of Westraw and of Nova Scot> 14. John, second Lord Carmichael, 1672, created first Ear Hyndford in 1701, Viscount Inglisberry and Nemphlar; James, second Earl of Hyndford, 1710; 16. John, third Earl of CARMICHAEL. 525 • Hyndford, 1727; 17. John, fourth Earl of Hyndford, 1767; 18. Thomas, fifth Earl of Hyndford, 1788; 19. Andrew, sixth and last Earl of Hyndford, 181 1 ; 20. Sir John Cannichael Anstruther, 1817; 21. Sir John Cannichael Anstruther, 1818; 22. Sir Wind- ham Carmichael Anstruther, 1831. The other land proprietors are the Right Honourable Lord Dou- glas, and Maurice Cannichael, Esq. of Eastend. The valued and real rents of the three proprietors are as follows, yiz. Sir W. Carmichael Anstnither*s valued rent L. 1266 13 4 Lord Dougbw*s do. - - 786 13 4 Mr Carmichael's, including Eastend and Lochlyoch, 266 13 4 L.2S20 The aggregate real rent is L. 4591. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers do not extend farther back than 1694. There are eight volumes in the posses- sion of the session-clerk. The register of births and baptisms ap- pears to have been pretty regularly kept ; no register of deaths has been kept The record containing an account of the administra- tion of church discipline is filled, at an early period, with more minute detaib of scandal than is consistent with the taste and prac- tice of the present times. No good purpose can be served by mi- nutely recording or transmitting to posterity the fects and circum- stances concerning cases of scandal. The preservation of records of scandal may furnish the malignant and the envious with matter of reproach against the innocent posterity of the persons whose misconduct is recorded, but will seldom afford much useful infor- mation. The kirk-session of this parish seems to have been guided by such enlightened views during the incumbency of the late mi- nister. Evidence in cases of discipline must be taken in writing at the time, in order to ensure a just judgment; but it is question- able whether the minute record and transmission of such evidence tend to edification. ifiiA*^t7t««.— Except the perpendicular stones or crosses, of which mention has already been made, and the remains of a camp or station in the south-west corner of the parish, there are no other antiquities which deserve notice. A large stone cofiin was disco- vered a few years ago, near the bridge over Douglas Water, but nothing was found in it; it was constructed of sandstone. For the information of the lovers of antiquarian research, it may be also mentioned, that, in 1834, some workmen, when quarrying stones for rebuilding a dry stone wall around the plantation of Stonehill, 526 LANARKSHIRE. found two gold rings or clasps, weighing 29 sovereigns, which were sold to a jeweller in Glasgow, but afterwards re-purchased by LotA Douglas, in whose possession they remain. The gold is vcsr^ pure, but the workmanship is not very refined. If any respectsi.l>\e antiquary feels desirous of gratifying his curiosity, and of deter- mining the use to which they were intended to be applied, he ne^ds not fear a refusal from his Lordship to be permitted to see th^^sm. Modem Buildings. — There are no modern buildings in the pari ^h which demand particular notice. The plan of the mansion-hous ^ of Carmichael was formed on a very magnificent scale, but only the t. "^^o wings, connected by a long gallery or corridor, were finished. T*!:^* ^y contain a great deal of accommodation. The mansiou-hous^^ of Eastend is a more modern building, and very commodious. "^J^ ~1© farm-houses which have been recently built are very neat, andc5^<^=^n" tain much more comfortable accommodation than those which «v ^3^ occupied forty or fifty^jears ago. There are two very good g-K"^^** mills in the parish, and the only astriction imposed on the ten^B-'^^ is an obligation to carry their grain to one of the milk of the Jp^ ^^ prietor, whether in the parish or not. III. — Population. The population, according to Dr Webster, in 1755, was. When the last Statistical Account wus drawn up, it had decreased to lu 181 1 It liad increased to . . 1821, ..... 1831, , . • At this last period there were Employed in agriculture, in trade, • Not included in these two classes, 480 males ; 476 females. In 1835, 180 families, . . 944 souls. Average number of persons under 5 years between 5 and 15, 15 and 30, 30 and 50, 50 and 70, 70 and 80, 80 and 90, 90 and 100, bachelors and widowers, above 50, unmarried women above 45, Illegitimate births during the last three years, 4. There are no towns or villages, but two hamlets ; the one taining about 140, and the other 86 persons. The average nu^ ber of births is 24; average number of marriages, 8. The-ave number of deaths for the last six years is 10. The average nu^ ber of marriages cannot be accurately ascertained, as one of parties frequently belongs to another parish. CARMICHAEL. 527 There are only three proprietors of land in the parish, as has been already mentioned. Mr Carmichael of Eastend is the only resident proprietor. There are two females whose mental faculties are weak, and one of them dumb; one young man, deaf and dumb, who was taught at the Deaf and Dumb Institution of Edinburgh, and who is very active. Character of the People j ^c. — The habits of the people, in point of dress and mode of living, have been greatly improved within the last five-and-twenty years. They enjoy in a considerable degree the comforts and advantages of society. In proof of their intelligence, activity « and sobriety, I may appeal to the fact, that several of them have secured a competency, and almost all of them live in easy and comfortable circumstances, to which their fathers were utter strangers. For their moral and religious character I appeal to their regular churc|^going habits, which have attracted the notice of all strangers, and which have been the source of much satisfaction to me, and I trust, of some benefit to themselves. There is a commendable attachment, which many of them cherish towards the parish where they were born and edu- cated, and which displays itself in leaving other parishes where they reside, to join in the celebration of the Lord's Supper, in the chiut^h where they first made a public profession of their Christian faith and hope. Perhaps the feeling may be resolved into a wish to accompany their fathers' family, where they had been first taught the value of the privilege, and the obligation of the duty of ob- serving the sacred ordinance. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — The parish contains 9252 Scots acres, or nearly 11,631 Imperial acres, that is, rather more than eighteen square miles, as has been already stated. Though I do not vouch for the perfect accuracy of the following subdivisions of the land, into arable, pasture, and plantation, yet I believe it is a near approxi- mation, — 4702 acres arable, including watered meadow grounds, S615 pasture, including hill and dale* 7d5 plantation. There are some hundred acres which have remained, and will re- main, uncultivated, because there is not the faintest prospect of any return for the outlay of capital. Some high and sterile grounds in the parish might be improved by belts and clumps of trees, of a hardy kind, which would afford shelter to the sheep and young 528 LANARKSHIRE. cattle which pasture on them. By beginning near the base, and gradually ascending with a plantation, a hill of considerable alti- tude may be covered to the summit There are some lands in the parish which might be drained, and others which might be brought into a state of greater cultivation either for cropping or pasturing, did the tenant's capital, length of leases, and encouragement from the proprietors, permit them to entertain the hope of being suflGi- ciently compensated for the primary expense. When a tenant wants capital to carry on necessary improvements, finds difficulty in paying the stipulated rent, and solicits a deduction, perhaps it would be better ultimately, both for him and the proprietor, that the deduction should be given in lime, bone-dust, &c for increadng the productive powers of the farm. When a stranger outbids an old tenant, with a view to get possession, and then soon complains of the high rent, and solicits a reduction, the equity and justice of listening to his complaint may be justly called in question. There is no land in the parish in a state of undivided common. ' The trees growing in the parish, beside the pines already men- tioned, are, oak, ash, elm, plane, beech, alder, poplar, birch, horse- chestnut, &c They are properly managed under the direction of a forester. Rent of Land. — The rent of arable land, according to the na- ture of the soil, is very various, from L.3, 10s. or L.4, to 10s. per Scots acre. The average rent, without urging any claims to ac- curacy, may be stated as follows, viz. Arabic, 4702 Scots acres, at I7s. 6d. - L. 41 14 5 Pasture, 3815 2s. 6d. - 476 17 6 L.4591 2 6 The grazing of a cow or ox, either for dairy produce^orthe but- cher, varies, according to the kind of pasture, from J^. 3 to L. 4 during the summer season, and of a sheep about 5s. Wages, — The wages of full-grown men-servants about L. 10 or L. 12 a-year, and of women-servants, L. 6 or L. 7. Masons and carpenters used to get 2s. 6d. but last year they demanded 3s. a- day, of ten hours. Labourers at other work get 9s. or 9s. 6d. a-week. A rood of mason work, when the materials are fumish( costs L. 1, 16s. or L. 2. Live-Stock. — The common breed of sheep is the black-face< with a few Cheviots, and of cattle the Ayrshire kind. The hor^^^. are chiefly of the Clydesdale breed, highly valued, and too 'r^i^j CARMICHAEL. 529 known to require any description or commendation from the writer of this account Husbandry. — The old practice of dividing the arable ground into two divisions, the crof); or infield and the outfield, of manur- ing and cropping, without interruption, the croft land, and of taking two or three white crops off the outfield, and then allowing it to rest and produce what grass might grow from the seeds which were lodged in it, or might be carried to it by the winds, has been long since abandoned. The same course of cultivation is not adopted by all the farmers. The nature of the soil, and the limited re- sources in obtaining manure, except what is produced in the pa- rish, forbid the adoption of a four years rotation of crops. Per- haps in no situation is such a rotation commendable. Some of the farmers take one, and sometimes two white crops, when pas- ture, with or without a top-dressing, is broken up ; then a green crop of potatoes and of turnips, partly consumed by sheep ; then a crop of oats, and then hay ; and last of all, pasture for two years. Some of them are bound by their leases to a six years rotation of crops, on land kept in a regular state of cultivation, and of course one*sixth part should always be in green crop. When the land is damp, with a northern exposure, two white crops are sometimes taken, and then it lies in pasture four years. Recent Improvements. — The raising of turnips, with bone manure, and consuming them with sheep, on ground of a light soil, or not very accessible with heavy carriages, is a great improvement, which has been recently adopted, and, it is hoped, will soon be generally adopted. Very considerable improvements were made upon the estate of Carmichael from 1819 to 1831, under the management of the late CJolonel Robert Anstruther, in the way of draining and fencing, — 23,390 yards of drains, from five to seven feet deep, being cut, filled with stones, and covered, — and 19,430 yards of dry stone • fences having been built, from 9d. to Is. 8d. per yard, the average expense being Is. 2d. per yard ; 70 acres of very swampy ground within the inclosures were thoroughly drained, cropped, and sown ^ith grass seeds, and now yield excellent pasture ; 33 acres got at tibe rate of 30 bolls of lime per acre, and 37 were laid down in ^rass without lime. The difference is very perceptible. Within these ffew years, the farms belonging to the Douglas estate have been ^:»iuch improved, by the erection of commodious dwelling-houses and ^:>ffices, and by drainage and fences. Anticipated Improvements. — There is a great deal of ground in 530 LANARKSHIRE. the parish which might be rendered more productive, though i- would certainly be unwise for tenants to bestow much labour or ex- pense on improvements towards the end of their leases. But whei the leases are renewed, let the tenants be compelled, by an obliga tory clause, or induced by some encouragement held out to thei to improve those parts of their farms, which are susceptil^Je of ii provement, by draining, liming, or deep ploughing, with a subso — i| plough, or otherwise, and, before the expiration of their lease s, many acres, saturated with stagnant water, or covered with rai- ^ fc heath, will be converted into dry fields, producing rich crops -^m}f grain or close herbage. Quarries and Mines. — Beside the coal seams, there are quarri of limestone and sandstone. The coal seams form an angle wi the horizon of 30" to 35°, and dip to the north-west The coal is now sold at 9d. the load, of twelve pecks of Linlithgow measui or rather more than 2^ cwt. The cart load of four loads comm<^ ly exceeds 10 cwt The burnt unslaked limestone is sold at 6d. per boll of about six bushels. The hewn sandstone for plii aqd rybats costs 7d. or 8d. a foot. Between the coal seams a. sandstone are found thick strata of slate-clay and bituminous sha. containing ironstone of different shapes and dimensions; but wl ther the ore is sufficiently rich and plentiful to encourage t working of it, has not been ascertained. Average gross amovnt of Raw Produce, — In venturing to give estimate of the amount of raw produce, I wish the following sta ment to be considered rather as a matter of opinion, founded par on returns made to me, than as a matter of fact. The data furnished, and if any person who is acquainted with the soil [ climate of the parish, think the amount either too great or small, he may apply the necessary correction to the error. 904 bolls of oats sown, yielding nearly an average of bolls, or d6 /) bushels = 5424 bolls, at 15s. per boll, . L. 4068 O ){ 53 bolls of barley, or bear, 48 bushels == 424 bolls, at 1 8s. per boll, 881 (^ 19 bolls of pease, 4 bushels to the boll, a very precarious crop, yield- ing, some years, little more than what the straw is worth, but n call the increase L. 3 for each boll sown, . , 57 (^ 97 acres of potatoes, yielding 40 bolls of 4 cwt. each, but for some years past ilie average produce has been probably lower, at 5s. n per boll, . . 970 C^ 120 acres of turnips, at L. 5 per acre, . 600 C^ 200 acres rye-grass hay, about 140 stones of 22 lbs. per acre, at L. 3, 840 (^ 140 acres meadow hay, some watered and some not, at L. 2, IQs. per acre, ..... 350 ^ q 2270 sheep at 6s. each, . . . 681 (^ 514 cows, grazing summer and winter, L. 4 each, . . 2056 9 399 queys, from one to two years old, but as several of them are grazed during summer in rented inclosures, perhaps L. 1 is a sufii- q cient average for each, . . . 599 (^ CARMICHAEL. 53t 112 bones, partly grazed when not working, say L. 2 each, . L. 224 37 col^ from one to two years old. The same observation applies to them as to the qucys, call the average dOs. . . 55 10 The revenue arising from the thinning and felling of trees not known. Coal and lime quarries, ..... 290 L. 10911 10 From the above gross amount of produce, ought to be deduct- ed the value of the seed, whether grain, potatoes, turnips, rye- grass and clover, the grain consumed by horses, the expense of servants' food and wages, and several other items, and the remain- der will be the amount of sales for rent, interest of capital, and re- muneration to the tenant for management. Manufactures. — The same tan-work, which was begun nine years before the last Statistical Account was written, is still skilfully and successfully carried on. One of the partners of the original firm still survives, with his mental faculties active and unimpaired. The currjing of leather is also carried on with similar skill and success. There is a foundery, which was established several years ago by Mr James Paterson, at Carmichael-mill. Most of the iron work for thrashing-mills and other machinery in the neighbourhood, is cast by the proprietor, who has a talent for contriving, and hands for exe- cuting, work of this kind, surpassed by few in the same profession. There are thirty-two weavers, including apprentices and jo'urney- men. V. — Parochial Economy. Alarket'Town, 8fc. — The nearest market-town and post-office is Lanark, five miles distant from the church. There are about seven or eight miles of turnpike road, and upwards of twenty miles of parish roads, kept in very good repair. Bridges are thrown over the streams which cross the parish roads, in a certain proportion, out of the county funds, and out of the parish road fundt Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is nearer the eastern than the western extremity of the parish. The most distant house is about four miles from the church. The church was built in 1750, has been often repaired, is at present in a good state of re- pair, and can accommodate between 400 and 500 persons. The sittings are all free, as should always be the case in country churches. The manse was built in the same year with the church, and a few years ago received a very handsome and commodious addition. The glebe contains about ten acres, and may be worth L. 24. The soil is naturally bad, but it has been greatly improved. The > 532 LANARKSHIRE. Stipend is L. 194, 14s. 6d. and 52 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks, and t^ lippies grain, two-thirds meal, and one-third barley. Besides th< parish church, there is no other church or chapel of any descrip • tion within the bounds of the parish. In 1815, when I first visitec^^d the parish, there were 48 Dissenters ; in 1836 there were II including an Irish family, lately come to the parish, 6 belong the Relief, 3 to the United Secession Church, and 9 to th Reformed Presbytery. All the rest attend the Established Churcl The average number of communicants is about 400. List of Ministers of CarmicJiael from 1569 to .1837. — ] Ninian Swan, formerly exhorter, settled Beltane (1st May) 156$ Mr Robert Landels, 1589; Mr John Symington, 1597; James Heighe, 1607; Mr Robert Nairne, settled 1636, demitto^sd. 1639; Mr Alexander Livingstone, settled 1640, translated Biggar, 1646; Mr James Semple, admitted 1649; Mr Job: Hamilton, admitted 1650 ; Mr Alexander Fauldes, presented K::>3 Archbishop of Glasgow, J 666; Mr Peter Peirson, 1670.; t^^^^^ John Hamilton, indulged by Privy Council, 1672; Mr Willi Somerville, 1672; Mr John Ferrat, 1675; Mr Lachlan presented by Marquis of Douglas, 1687 ; Mr James Gartsho called 15th November 1693, ordained 1694, died 29th Nove ber 1745; Mr William Millar, called 30th June 1747, ordain 23d September 1747, died 2d February 1772; Mr Rob^ Inglis, presented by Earl of Hyndford, 14th June, ordained 2 February 1773, died 14th January 1814; Mr William presented by Andrew, Earl of Hyndford, and translated Pettinain 16th September 1814. Education. — There are two schools in the parish, the one rochial, and the other partly supported by a voluntary contributL of L. 10 per annum, by the two heritors of the district where t school is situated. In the parochial school, very ably and s cessfuUy conducted by Mr Lithgow and two assistants, are tau various branches of education, such as Greek, Latin, Fren English, geography, mathematics, drawing, &c This flourishi academy, where 32 boarders, besides day-scholars, are taught the most approved method, has, by the liberal encouragement the heritors, and by exertions and expense on the part of Lithgow himself, accommodations superior to what are found most establishments of the kind. It had a small beginning, the success with which it has been crowned, is a proof that and useful achievements may be accomplished by a spirit of 4 CARMICHAEL. 533 terprise and perseverance. The attention which is bestowed, not only in carrying forward the literary studies of the pupils, but upon their religious and moral training, their health and their comfort in every respect, is deserving of the highest commendation. There have been pupils attending the academy from different parts of the three civilized quarters of the earth. The salary attached to the parochial schoolmaster is L. 32, with more than the legal ac- commodations. The emoluments of the other schoolmaster con- sist of JL 10, with house and garden, and school fees. The school fees, per quarter, are for English, 2s. 6d. ; English and writmg, ds. ; arithmetic, ds. 6d. ; English grammar, 4s. ; Latin, 58. The amount of fees received by the parochial teacher is about L. 10 per annum. There are none between six and fifteen years, so &r as I know, who cannot read or write ; and none above fifteen who cannot read, with two or three exceptions. The people are alive to the benefits of education, and every facility is afforded to those who are in straitened circumstances, either by the liberality and for- bearance of the teachers, or by aid out of the public fund. The number of scholars, exclusive of boarders, attending the two schools, and some neighbouring schools in adjoining parishes, varies from 130 to 140, being one^seventh part of the population. There are no parochial or circulating libraries in the parish, no schools of arts or mechanics' institutions, no public reading rooms, or newspapers printed or published ; but several of the lat* ter are read. Indeed, some one or other of them finds access to al- niost every family, and it is to be feared, in some instances, is a substitute for a more profitable species of reading. Savitiffs Bank. — There are no charitable or Friendly Societies in the parish ; but a parish Savings bank was established in 1814, and has been productive of very beneficial effects. It has always been under the management of the writer of this account. It has not been limited to deposits from servants and mechanics within the parish, but has received deposits from several in other parishes. The present amount of deposits is upwards of L. 1800. Last year about L. 290 were deposited, and rather more than the same sum withdrawn. The depositors are considerably above a hundred in number, and all are of the description of persons for whose be- nefit parish banks are intended. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid, not including those who are occasionally relieved, seldom exceeds 12. The sum allowed monthly to each LANARK. M m 534 LANARKSHIRR. varies, according to the circumstances of the individual, from 4s. to 6s. Poor families or individuals, who are not in the list of paupers, receive at least twice a year, and sometimes oftener, some small aid from the poor's fund. The collections in the church amount to L. 25 a-year, and the heritors are always ready to give an equal or greater sum, as the situation of the poor may require it. The interest of L. 115, the collections in church, aod the voluntary contributions from the heritors, have hitherto been sufficient to meet all demands. The expenditure last year was L.54. Ale-houses. — There are only two ale-houses in the parish; they are occupied by tolUbar keepers ; and necessity for either of them is questionable. They are of no use to the parish, but enable the tenants of the toll-bars to pay a higher rent to the road trustees. Miscellaneous Observations. Very great improvements have been made since the former Sta- tbtical Account was drawn up. Much greater crops of gr^i^ turnips, and potatoes, are raised. More work is now done by od^ man and a pair of horses, than was formerly done by a plough" man, a gocid-man or driver, and four horses. The dairy is bett^' managed and more productive. A spirit of improvement is in ^^' tive operation, and if it be not checked by some untoward and ^^' looked for convulsion, it is possible that a generation fifty yea^ hence, when a new Statistical Account may be required, t*^*? wonder that people of the present day should have been igno^^^ of their discoveries. November 183a PARISH OF PETTINAIN. PRESBYTERY OF LANARK, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. JOHN VARY, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The derivation of the name of this parish is, in a great measure, matter of conjecture. The spelling in the more ancient charters is Pedynane or Petynane, while in the modern records it is generally Pittinine or Pettinain. Much stress, however, is not to be placed on the mode of spelling, as on the communion cups, both bearing date 1696, it is found differently spelt The name, says Chalmers in his Caledonia, whatever be its true form, may be derived from the British PeithynaUy signifying a clear plat or space, or from the British Ped-y-Tumtj signifying the lower end of a ravine through which a brook flows. The former of these de- rivations appears the more probable, as there is a considerable ex- tent of nearly level land, of excellent quality, stretching to the north of the village of the same name, which was very probably cleared while the adjoining ground was covered with wood ; and this supposition is strengthened by a circumstance, likewise mention- ed by Chalmers, that David I. granted to Nicolas, his clerk, a ca- rucate of land, in the forest of Pedynane, with the usual right of common of pasture. Extent and Boundaries. — The figure of the parish is rather ir- regular, but may be more properly described as rectangular than in any other way, being nearly 3 miles in length, and 2^ in breadth. It is bounded on the south, by Covington ; on the west, by Car- michael ; on the north-west, by a small portion of Lanark ; on the north, by Carstairs and Carnwath ; and on the east, by Libber- ton. From the four last mentioned parishes, it is separated by the river Clyde. Adjoining the river, there is a considerable tract of haugh or holm land, so very level that frequently in winter, after heavy rains in the south, and sometimes even in summer, it is co- * Drawn up by the Rev. George Dickson, laU incumbent of this parish, now mU ntetcr of Kih'cnny. 536 LANARKSHIRE. ▼ered with water to a considerable depth, and the mud which is then deposited serves greatly to enrich it. At such times, the river has much the appearance of an arm of the sea, and occasions much damage to the com crop, completely destroying it if in the shot-blade, and leaving so much sand upon the pasture, as to ren- der it unfit for cattle, until again washed oflF by the rain. The ground rises by a gentle acclivity from the river, presenting an unequal surface ; but in general it is well cultivated, and subdivided into different enclosures. Topographical Appearances. — The only high ground deserving any notice is a ridge, which, commencing in the parish of Coving- ton in the south, runs in a north-westerly direction through the parish, until it terminates in the west end of it, where it rises to the greatest height, about 500 feet above the bed of the river. The highest point of the ridge is named Cairn-gryfTe, while the other portions are styled Westraw and Swaites hills, the one opposite the 'mansion -house of Westraw, and the other attached to a farm of the same name, situated at the bottom of the hill. Climate. — The climate may rather be represented as moist than otherwise, and the sudden changes of the temperature of the at-** mosphere from hot to cold, and from cold to hot, particularly in the spring, are not unfrequent ; and often give rise to colds, sore* throats, &c During the spring months, cold easterly winds fre-* quently prevail, which produce a withering effect upon the pasture^ the braird, and the blossom of the small fruit ; but the dense fog^ which prevail upon the east coast very rarely extend so fsu* to th^ west The highest winds are from the south and south-west^ which is particularly indicated by the inclination of trees planted in exposed situations, being uniformly found to be toward th^ north-east It may also be remarked, that the heaviest falls of snow are from the east and north-east The parish may be generally represented as dry and healthv-^ The diseases which prevail are such as are common to the neigh^ bourhood, viz. fevers, sore throats, rheumatisms, &c. During th^ time that cholera prevailed in this country, it afforded great ground for thankfulness, that this parish was entirely free from it Th^ practice of vaccination is carefully attended to, so that a face mark* ed by the small-pox is rarely to be seen. Hydrography. — The river Clyde, rising upwards of twenty- five miles to the southward, in the parish of Crawford, flows along with considerable rapidity, until within a few miles of its PETTINAIN. 537 reaching the parish of Pettinain, when its motion beconies much slower, its depth increased, and its aspect changed. From be- ing rapid in its motion, and lively in its aspect, it becomes slow and still, and continues so for several miles, making in its course many beautiful windings through the haugh or holm land, and moving so slowly and smoothly, that a stranger is at a loss to know in what direction it is flowing. Such is its general aspect until near- ly half a mile from where it leaves the parish, where some rocks impede its course, and over which it rushes with considerable ra- pidity and noise. It was proposed at one time to remove two or three feet from the surface of these rocks, and thus diminish the depth of stagnant water above, and likewise prevent the floods from overspreading so much of the adjoining land, by conveying the water more rapidly away ; but the proprietors interested on both banks of the river, not being satisfied as to the probable result, the scheme was abandoned, after an experienced engineer had been consulted, and had given it as his opinion that the plan was prac- ticable. The river proceeds at its entrance into the parish from south to north, and afterwards from east to west, compassing more than one*half of the parish. Geology and Mineralogy. — It is unnecessary to occupy much space in adverting to this head. The ridge of hills, to which al- lusion has already been made, consists chiefly of compact felspar ^r felspar porphyry, and sandstone ; the western part of the ridge t)eing composed of the former, and the south-easterly part of the latter. The felspar furnishes an excellent material for road mak- ing, and is accounted so very valuable for this purpose, that it is ^^arted to the distance of several miles, into some of the neighbour- ing parishes. There is a great want of freestone for dressing. *The hewn stone used in the building of the present manse, was fcrought from the neighbourhood of Nethanfoot, a small village ^pon the Clyde, in the parish of Lesmahagow, at a distance of more ^han ten miles. Various attempts have been made to find lime- stone, but hitherto without much success. Wherever it has been ^ound, it was either situated at such a depth below the surface, or t^he stratum was so thin, tbat it was not deemed advantageous to ^ork it. SoiL — There is a considerable variety of soil in the parish. In the haugh or holm land adjoining the river, it appears to be a com- pound of clay and mud, and extends to the depth of several feet, under which is generally found a stratum of gravel. Around the 538 LANARKSHIRE. village, and in various other parts, a rich loam is found to prevail ; while other portions display, some a sharp gravelly, and others a sandy soil. The higher grounds are generally covered with heath and bent, and, having a clayey till as subsoil, are very unproduc- tive, and not susceptible of much improvement. Zoology. — The .parish is not distinguished by any of the rarer species of animals, if we except pheasants, a vast number of which have, within the last three years, been brought from England, and are now finding their way into the neighbouring parishes* They, along with the hares, which have been much protected of late, and are literally swarming, have been found very destructive to the crops, and have furnished a subject of much complaint among the tenants. In the Clyde are found trout, pike, and perch, though the last is limited only to particular places. The trout are not nearly so nume- rous as formerly, which may be ascribed, in some measure, to the river being more fished, and to the method practised in fishing. The practice frequently adopted is for two persons, with short rods, to repair to the river, each taking an opposite side, and with a line stretched across, and to which are appended, by means of a piece of gut, a great number of dressed fly-hooks, the river is thoroughly fished, and the fishers in general well rewarded with a plentiful sup* ply of trout The decrease of trout may abo be partly owing to the increase of pike, some of which are found of an enormous size, and are known to prey upon the trout During last sunqmer, one was caught, which measured in length upwards of three feet, and weigh* ed more than twenty pounds. It was presented to Sir Nonnaii Macdonald Lockhart of Lee and Camwath, Bart at that time re- siding in Camwath House. IL — Civil History. The whole parish belongs to Sir Windham Carmichael An- struther, of Anstruther and Carmichael, Bart, with the excep- tion of 250 or 300 acres, belonging to Hugh Smith, Esq. of Westown, and about nine or ten acres, the property of Henry Mon- teith, Esq. of Carstairs. This last portion, viz. Mr Monteith's, is separated from the rest of the parish by the river Clyde, which, in the haugh land, is frequently found to change its course ; but there is little doubt of its being formeriy joined to the rest of the parish, from the circumstance of the old course of the river being still vi- sible, and from its always having been liable for stipend. Parochial Registers. — The oldest parochial register bears date ■ 3 PETTINAIN. 53d 1689, and for a considerable period of time, down to 1780, the transactions of the heritors and kirk-session appear to have been pretty r^ularly recorded ; but between that year and 1803, much less attention has been paid, and the consequence is that they are very defective. The different registers of births, marriages, and deaths, are now kept with the greatest accuracy. Antiquities, — It is unnecessary to make any remarks on the en- campment, so well described in the former Statistical Account, except to state that the traces of it are gradually disappearing ;* and likewise to observe, that there is now no vestige of the long stone or cross, of which mention is also made in the former Account of the parish. Mansian^Hoiues.'^^The only mansion-house deserving of notice b that of Westraw, belonging to Sir Windham Carmichael An- stnither, Bart. It appears to have been originally a small house, but, with the additions which have been made from time to time, it DOW affords a good deal of accommodation. It was here that the late Earl of Hyndford, at whose death the title became extinct, chiefly reSided, although he had a splendid residence at Mauldslie, * '* In the confines of the parish on the south, and on the high moorish ground fiirmerly mentioned, the yestiges of a hu-ge camp, or fortified station, are still very ▼isible. It contains about 6 acres, which form an irregular figure, approaching to that of a circular area« The walls seem to have been yery thick and high, and to hsTe been composed chiefly of coarse stones, many of them a kind of flag, collected, probably, from the adjoining grounds ; but there is no appearance of mortar or ce- ment* It IS Htuated upon the side of a deep moss, within which, at a little distance, are the remains of a small fort, scarcely including a rood of ground, which has evi- denUy been connected with the large one by a passage made through the moss. The figure of this small fortification is likewise round, and the wall of it has been built with the same kind of stones. The large camp includes several springs of excellent water. Some urns were found, under the ruins of the wall, a great many years agO| by some people that were digging out the larger stones for the purpose of building. They were each of them enclosed within four coarse flag stones, set on edge, and co« vered with one laid flat. The space included by these flags was filled to a conside- rable depth with a fine whitish sand, among which the urn was standing in an in* verted position. Upon removing the urn, something of a soft slimy nature was found upon the sand, which probably might be the ashes of human bones. A large um, surrounded with fine small ones, was found in the bottom of a cairn of stones, sbout a quarter of a mile distant, and enclosed in a similar manner. This large camp has two smaller ones in its view ; one of tbemto the north westward, upon the high- est top of the hill, and the other to the south-eastward, on the top of a little bill in Covin;) close to the banks of the Clyde. This situate being at the extremity of the parish, was found inconvenient, and it was there^ proposed that the diurch should be removed to a more centrical spot. This pn^ sal met with strong opposition from a part of the population, who clung to the % ground, and, after much difficulty, could only be brought to agree that the new should be the Law of Mauldslee, a situation not &r from the old one. This, fa ever, not meeting the views of tho opposite party, it was at length determined that -^ dispute should be submitted to the arbitration of Providence. With this vie' ^^^ pow (skull) was taken from the ancient burial ground, and. together with abunc^' peat, was laid on the proposed site at the Law. If the pott and peat remained, that to be the spot ; but if they should be removed by <^ a Guiding fiand" the church ^ ^ to be erected wherever they might be found. They were removed, and the wl " parish was raised to seek for the |)ow and the peat. After much search, they wen last, to the great joy of the people, discovered by Symeon Haddowof Easterseat, on spot where the church was eventually erected, about two miles nearer Symeon'i ho Uian tlie Law. The truth was, that the Guiding hand was none other than Symeon himself, a secret which was carefully kept within his family for many _ tions. Hence the name Kirk-look,— the looking for the kirk. The derivation.^ ot course, absurd ; but there can be little doubt as to the reference to Provide^''^^ and its result. CARLUKE. 565 towards the east, until it at last terminates in a track of wild moor- land. To one travelling along the Lanark and Glasgow road, on the opposite side of the Clyde, the lower part of our parish presents an aspect highly picturesque. The banks of the river, richly clothed with fruit and forest trees, and studded with comfortable cottages and farm-houses, or, here and there, with the more aspiring edi- fices of the rich, form, altogether, a prospect that is perhaps not surpassed by many others in Scotland. None, however, can form a proper idea of the extreme beauty of the district, but those who have explored the numerous romantic glens or gills, through which the streamilets, rising in the higher quarters of the parish, find their way to the Clyde. Maynk^nSf Caves. — The hills in the parish of any great height are four in number ; Kilcadzow Law, Lee Law, King's Law, and Law of Mauldslie. Of these, Kdlcadzow Law, which is the most elevated, is about 150 feet higher than the gate of Cleghorn ave- nue; which, again, is stated in Telford's railway survey, to be 743 feet above the level of high water at the Broomielaw. The only caverns in the parish are some shelving recesses in the banks of Garrion and other gills, to which the country people are said to have scrambled for concealment, dragging their horses after them, during the commotions in the reigns of the Charleses ; as also, when the Highlanders were traversing the country in 1745-6. CUmate, — As the whole of the parish, with the exception of the small portion of it situated in the trough of the Clyde, is ex- posed to the full sweep of the west and south-west winds, which prevail here, often with great violence, for nearly three-fourths of the year, the climate is, in consequence, both cold and damp. It is &r, however, from being unhealthy. The prevalent distempers are inflammatory affections ; such as pneumonia, pleuritis, in- flammatory affections of the windpipe, terminating frequently in phthisis during the upward portion of life ; rheumatism is common daring the advanced period of life. On the Clyde, fever, when it occurs, is of a lower type, — assuming a typhoid character, more frequently than in the middle and higher portions of the parish. Hydrography.' — Springs are numerous, so much so, indeed, as sometimes almost to constitute a nuisance. Some of them stand high in repute for their medicinal qualities, as the Physic Well, a ferruginous spring near Carluke town ; Duds' Well, a spring of the LANARK. o o 5G6 LANARKSHIRK. same nature near Chapel.* Guy's Well, a sulphurous chalybeate in Garrion Gill, from which Guy Hamilton, afterwards mentioned, was executed for being concerned in the Pentland rising, was accus- tomed to drink, whilst lurking from his pursuers. There are nur merous petrifying springs, as they are called, at the tower ot Hallbar, Jock's Gill, Bashaw, &c« For notices of an ancient \s3k» and river course, we would refer to the geological department, ^ which they more properly belong. Geology and Mineralogy, — The geological features of the f>a.- rish are interesting in many points of view ; but as even a sket.^^ would occupy too much space, we shall notice only the more LK=n* portant Towards the western boundary of the parish, portions of C ^^ main and splint coal of the Clyde field, with their attendant seacr^^i^ crop out; on the south-easteni divison, the old red sandstc^Q^ presents itself — so that within three miles of surface, the wh. ^'^ inferior coal seams, and the carboniferous limestone range, are ^u~ eluded. Taking the order of superposition, we shall first noC^-^<^ the coal, which has a peculiar distribution in the district. 1. The first or highest workable coal is found at Law of Maul ^^ lie, called the sofit coal,f of 10 feet, lying about 14 &thoms a b ^ ^^ the maiu coal. 2. Four fathoms above the main coal there is a seam of 2 ^Ceet 9 inches (the Pyetshaw coal of the Monklands). 3. The main coal, a seam 5 feet thick. 4. The splint coal, from 14 to 16 fathoms under the n^*^ ^*" coal, and of nearly the same thickness. Between these last, there are two seams, the one six inches, ^"® other about a foot. The same arrangement, with trifling di "^' rences, takes place at Chapel, in Cambusnethan parish, close on ^"^ north-west boundary, the soft coal being out of the section. ^^0^^ dip of the strata, in the extreme west and south, (without the fe::^"'* about to be noticed,) is nearly due west. An extensive fault or upcast, the boundary of which, consist — *°^ of a mass of freestone, is traceable from the lower part of I^^j^' dler Gill, on the south, in a semicircular direction by Jock's G^^'"' Law, and Bogside, or, in other words, south by west to north, bri^^^ the coal seams above enumerated to the surface. A considera ^^^ portion of the coal range, however, which lies nearer the Clyde^ "^ • Dr Dud«, a chirurgeon of some celebrity in his time, lived at Chapel in 169"^^ t rhroughout this account the local names have been adopted. i CARLUKE. 567 the Garrion, Brownlee, MauldsHe, and Mil ton-Lockhart estates, re- mains unaffected by this fault, and continues its course rising to the south-east. But on the eastern side of the fault, a new ar- rangement takes place. What may be called the Carluke coal basin is formed. At the north-west parts of the parish, the infe- rior coal seams are introduced by an up -cast of 50 fathoms per- haps ; at the Theafal stane in Jock's Gill (a well-marked point in the course of this fault,) on the east side, the limestone range is brought to the surface, — an upcast of considerable extent ; and at Samson's sling stone in the Fiddler Gill (another well-mark- ed point) the upcast is still greater. The extent of the Carluke coal basin, of which the fault above noticed is one of the grand boundaries, is well ascertained. Words, however, cannot ade- quately supply the place of a diagram in giving an idea of it, — but when we state that it describes as usual a curve, and that the out-croppings of the coal and lime take a semicircular form north by west to east, the convexity being west and south, we shall pre- sume that we are understood. Taking the east side of the fault above described, near Bogside and Hyndshaw, as the northern li- mit, and passing due south, the out-croppings of the under seams of the coal are found in Braidwood estate, about a mile south of the town of Carluke, a distance of about three miles. Westward below Whiteshaw bridge, on the estate of Milton Lockhart, is the boundary in that direction, and, passing eastwards, the out-crop- pings take place beyond Belston bridge — a distance of about two miles. The centre of the basin is near Castlehill iron works, and of course the dip is towards that point from all directions. In this basin the following seams are wrought : 1. The first or highest is what is here called Castlehill first seam, of about three feet ; a soft coal of inferior quality, but found to answer the furnace. Has the appearance of a lignite, and while burning sends out sparks like peat. 2. From seven to eight fathoms below is the Castlehill second seam, of good quality, but not so thick. a At from seven to eight fathoms lower occurs the Castlehill third seam, of four feet, with a rib of shale in the under portion ; a coal also of good quality. 4 Four fathoms lower, the Castlehill fourth seam is found, of two feet, and of good quality. 5. At a considerable unascertained distance lower, the Castle- 568 LANARKSHIRE. hill fifth seam is found of two feet, which is rather of superior quality. 6, 7. At a considerable unascertained distance lower, and be- low the first limestones, two seams are found, called the Carluke seams, the one about two feet, and the other, tweWe feet lower, a little thicker, the uppermost being of good quality. 8. Lastly, at the distance of eleven fisithoms is the Tower coal, of two and a half feet, found at Whiteshaw Bridge. A number of crow seams, as they are called, besides these, are seen, not worth working. Southward, at Orchard, on the other side of the &uU before- described, and in relative connection with the coal range passing up the Clyde, unaffected by the fault, one of the Carluke seams is wrought ; and at Tower of Halbar, also on the south of the fault, the Carluke (6 and 7) and the Tower (8) seams are also wrought. At Mashockmtll, sixteen fathoms below the Tower coal, the Lesmahagow cannel, or gas coal, is found, which here is from ten to sixteen inches, with ten inches of dross coal below. This coal has not been found in what we have called the Carluke basin of sufiicient thickness to pay the workmg of it ; but its lo- cality occupies a wide circle. At Gare, towards the eastern boundary of the parish, the lime bands which lie above the Carluke coal seams (6 and 7) are in- troduced by a downcast of great extent, and of course these coal seams, and those lying under them, occur in that quarter, in con- nection with another basin which has only been partially explored. A large extent of the main, splint, &c. seams on the estates of Brownlee, Mauldslie, and Milton- Lockhart, on the west and south of the fault, bounding the Carluke basin on these points, has never been examined or worked ; and till very lately, the outcroppings only of the Castlehill first and the Carluke seams have been wrought, so that, in a sense, the Carluke coal basin, and the field to the south and west of it are untouched. The entire coal range in the parish (containing 45 or 46 small seams, besides those above-mentioned), consists of a succession of shales, freestones, fire-clay, ironstone, &c. and corresponds with that at Shotts, Wil- sontown, and Douglas. The only important fault in this basin is a slip or upcast of from 40 to 50 fathoms, running in the di- rection of one of the boundaries already given, namely, from be- low Whiteshaw Bridge to Belston. Between the coal and the principal limestone beds, there is a CARLUKE. 569 thick mass of coarse-grained sandstone, and a succession of the same stone in laminae, in the situation of the millstone grit. This and many of the freestones in the coal range are used for build- iDgjS and many of them are of the best quality for that purpose. Limettone. — The workable lime bands in the parish are five ia number, — all of them occurring under the coal, except the first, and that is the uppermost of the two found above Carluke coal. (6.) 1. The Gare band or bed, of about four feet and a half, worked mt Gare, Westerhouse, and Bashaw. It is esteemed highly by the agriculturist of the moorland districts, but it is by no means equal to the main lime in quantity for general use. The dip at Gare is in a semicircular form, west, north, and east ; at Westerhouse and Bashaw it is nearly the same. We place this band first in the list, as it is geologically the highest in the group here ; but the work- ings above named are not within the limits of the Carluke basin : indeed, though known, it has never been wrought in that basin. 2. The Kinshaw (Kingshaw) underhand of two feet and a half, worked at Kinshaw, Raes, partially at Birkfield, seen in a pit at Braidwood, and in a mine at Hillhead. It is a coarse lime of lit- tle repute, but from its highly stimulating (hot) quality, is valua- ble as an application to clay soils. The dip at different places is remarkably varied. At Kinshaw it is north-west ; at Hillhead, west ; at Braidwood and Raes, north-east 3. The foul band of four feet, wrought at Mosside, Hillhead, l.eemuir, partially at Raes gill, and seen at Harestanes Loch. It is %}( indifferent quality, but has been found fit in some instances for the furnace in iron-smelting. It passes round the summit of Hill- 2iead in a semicircular course, and dips north-north-west and west ; •ait Leemuir, Harestanes Loch, and Raes gill it dips north -east 4. The main limestone, of from four to six feet, wrought at Thorn- ^nuir, Mosside, Hillhead, Langshaw-burn, Harestanes, Braidwood, <^nd south-west of Kilcadzow. This is a limestone of excellent qua- lity. Its distribution is very remarkable. At Tliornmuir, in the east- ern division of the parish, it crops out, and has a dip eastwards ; at Mosside and Hillhead, to the west of Thornmuir, it dips to the north-west ; at Langshaw-burn, to the south of Hillhead, the dip is tiorth ; and at Harestanes and Braidwood, west of Langshaw-burn, and at Kilcadzow, the dip is north-east The Thornmuir working is in connection with the basin, to which the first (Gare) lime be- longs, passing eastwards ; the others are in connection with the Carluke basin. 570 LANAUKSHIRE. 5. On the confines of the old red sandstone, a band, of about three feet, which seems to have been wrought near Yieldshields, said to be of good quality. At all the places enumerated the lime- stone is found at the surface or outcrop. A number of others, principally small bands, intermediate with and under the above-mentioned, at least eight, are seen ; those oc- curring under the main band having attendant coal seams, like, the main band itself, of from six to eighteen inches. Large tracks of limestone on the estates of Braidwood, Waygateshav, and Milton- Lockhart, have not yet been explored. From what has been already stated, the numerous faults or casts in this range may be inferred. Marl has been worked at an early period at Oldhill, on the estate of Waygateshaw. It is of excellent quality, and, though long neglected, it is likely to be opened up anew. At the termination of the limestone group, in the natural ar- rangement, the old red sandstone appears ; but its presence in its proper, or rather regular position, is, from the frequent downcasts of the s'trata, marked only at one place. On the south-eastern boundary it is not found till we reach Kilcadzow ; on the north- east boundary its appearance is protracted much beyond our bounds : but between these two points, it comes under observation just at the outcrop of the limestone range, near Burnhouse, — a sort of tongue^like projection, on either side of which, by repeated downcasts, the limestone is continued. The old red sandstone here bears all the characteristic marks of that range, and abounds with conglomerates. Some particular parts of the rock used as road metal, as it is technically called, is preferred for that purpose to the trap. It constitutes the highest peak in the parish, namely, Kilcadzow Law. Ironstone. — Ironstone is ibund in great abundance throughout the coal and limestone ranges. 1. Below the main coal there is a band or lead of 9 inches. 2. Above the Castlehill first coal there is a shelly band of 9 inches. 8. In the shale of the roof of the Castlehill second coal, balk are found equal to a band of 6 inches. 4. In the shale of the Castlehill fifth coal a band of 4 inches is found. 5. A considerable space below this last named coal the slaty band of about 9 inches is found. CARLUKE. 571 6, 7, Si 9. Above the cannel coal lie the Maggy bands, four in number, averaging in all about 12 inches. 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19. Between the caumy* and foul bands of limestone, lie ten bands of ironstone commonly called the Raes gill bands, averaging 4 feet in all. 20, 21, 22. Between the foul and main bands of limestone three bands of ironstone occur, averaging in all about 15 inches. Be- sides these there are several other bands, making in all about thirty. A beautiful natural section of the ten bands is seen at Raes gill, on the estate of Milton -Lockhart, near the western boundary of Carluke basin, dipping north-east ; and at Hillhead, near the eastern boundary of the same basin, they are found on edge, dipping west These bands are found also in Braidwood lands, at NellBeld, Leemuir, BirkBeld, &c The geologicsA locality of the black band, of great value in the Airdrie field, lies within our boundary, but as yet it has not been discovered. Minerals, — The following minerals are common in the district Quartz in great abundance in the conglomerates of the old red sandstone, and the boulders of the alluvial clay, &c A flag stone of two feet six inches, lying under the first Kinshaw limestone, consists almost entirely of quartz. Agate, in the old red sandstone ; mica in layers in freestone rocks, and abundantly diffused through these rocks ; calcareous spar, in fissures of the limestones ; heavy spar in the fissures ef the old red sandstone; iron pyrites in fis- sures of the coal, limestone, ironstone, &c ; galena among 'the ironstones at Belston •place and Brockshole. Calcareous tufa is found in almost every glen and gill in the track of the limestone. Bitumen, or mineral caouchouc, is found in the fissures of the coal, and some of the limestones. Organic Remains. — This is certainly the most interesting branch of our subject ; but we are little qualified, we find, to do it justice. From the foregoing sketch, the domain of the collector will be seen to be rich and extensive ; but his labours have hitherto been necessarily very much circumscribed. The extensive operations, however, lately begun for the supply of the Castlehill iron works have removed many impediments, and with so few labourers, the collec- * A band of limestone, of from 3 to 9 feet* not before particularly noticed, as it is not wrought, nor is it as a limestone worth working ; it is the first lime above the foul band (3), the distance between them beirg 54 fcet« 572 LANARKSHIRE. tioD already formed is by no means coatemptible, as may be coo- ceived, when we say that a simple catalogue would exceed our pre* scribed limit In the remarks to be made on this branchi we shall keep by the order of the previous part, beginning with the first coal in the Carluke basin. Ij Our coal-field is rich both in fossil plants and animals. Plants, — The roof of the Castlehill first coal, in an old work- ing, presents a picture which words cannot adequately describe: The shale abounds with, nay, seems to consist of a tissue of beauti- ful vegetable stems and imprints of the genera LepidodendroHf Si" giUaria^ Calamites^ Sphenopteret, and many others ; the SHgmaria along with some of the above, and what we conceive to be cones of the Leptdodendrtnif are got from the shale of the Castlehill se- cond coal ; — and from the lower seams some of the £quisetum tribe, and leaves of aborescent ferns are procured. A magnificent specimen of the Sigillaria pachydermoy in a perpendicular position, was found in clearing out the foundation for the furnaces at Castle- hill, measuring 3 feet in circumference, but it was totally destroy- ed. A fine flattened specimen of the same kind is preserved, each rib of the fluting of which measures 2 J inches, giving for the en- tire plant a great circumference. From the small collection al- ready made from these coal seams alone, twenty-five species have been selected, many of them of great beauty. Animals. — Fishes are found entire, and vast quantities of bones, teeth, vertebrae, scales, and other exuviae are procured from the bituminous shale of the Castlehill second coal. Among these are identified good specimens of jaws of the MegalichthySj PlenosaunUi and Teleosaurusj &c. ; and teeth of the two first mentioned from 1 i inch in length downwards ; bones of the Pterodactybu ; feet and bones of the hat tribe ; dorsal spines of the Hybodua and some others, one measuring 9 inches in length ; scales of the turtle, &c. Some of the remains found in this shale (particularly one jaw) are not figured by any writer we have consulted. A circle of bone too, supposed to be that which surrounded the lucid cornea of some reptile monster, found of varied dimensions, from an inch and three-quarters to half an inch diameter, is unique so far as we know. Shells of four species have been got in the shales and iron- stone balls of the Castlehill coal seams. The freestones also abound in vegetable remains ; and without 6 CARLUKE. 573 much hesitation we would say, that some remarkable animals have been found in the millstone grit series. Plants. — From the freestones twelve species have been selected. A yery perfect tree of the coniferous class, with its minute branches, was a short- time since laid bare at Harestanes quarry. It mea- sured about 40 feet in length, and was proportionably thick : the minuter branches were so perfect that an onlooker found some diffi« culty in believing them to be anything but recent branches of the Scotch fir. It was broken up and removed, but some good speci- mens have been preserved. AnimaU. — Several specimens of what appears to have been lizards, and also vast quantities of eel-like creatures have been found on Milton-Lockhart estate near Hallcraig Bridge. The fonns are very perfect, but the animal structure is by no means so ; indeed they are mere casts. Some hope is entertained that specimens may yet be found which may retain traces of the struc- ture.; The ripple mark on the laminated freestones is very common. All the limestones and the shales in connection are charged with apimal remains : from thousands of specimens, 120 species and upwards have already been procured, among which are the follow- ing. MadreporcL, 4 ; JSncrinoidat 25 ; Univalves, 34, consisting o( Ammonites^ NautiliteSy Qrthoceratitesj EuomphaluSy BelemniteSf CirruSf Helixj &c. ; Bivalves, 54, consisting of Productij Spirifevy Cardiumj ModioUzy Mya^ Terebratuhy &c. ; also Trilobites and teeth of the shark tribe, &c. One of the Orthoceratites measures 12 inches circumference. A very beautiful encrinal marble, which receives a fine polish, has lately been found on Braidwood estate about 20 inches thick : it is literally a mass of encrinites. Among the ironstones, five are shelly bands, as they are called. In the old red sandstone here, no organic remains have as yet been found. Trap. — A ridge of trap extends from Hillhead eastwards as far ^is Bashaw (about a mile) both on the north-east. Whether it extends farther we have no means of judging, as a hill of consi- ^rable elevation rises over its north-east apparent limit, which consists of freestone. It is very probable that this hill, called Kings Law, owes its origin to the eruption of the trap. Be this as it may, the trap exists in the line of an extensive derangement of the strata, but it is not evident throughout, we admit, how iar, in producing this, it is concerned. On the east of the trap, a new basin of 574 LANAKKSUIRE. coal and lime is formed, where the old red sandstone would na- turally be looked for ; at the west point of the trap, the foul lime- stone with its attendant numerous bands of ironstone start on edge, are dislocated, bend back upon themselves, and He on either side in a position exactly as if broken in upon by a powerful agent— the whole superior strata around Hillhead participating in this change. On the north of the trap, and close to it, the foul band of limestone dips north ; at its westermost point, the dip of that lime- stone is west ; and to the south, the dip is south-west In other words, the summit of Hillhead is the trap, and around its westermost point the strata is ranged in a semicircular form. Where the trap is wrought, it is from 1 6 to 20 feet thick ; its columnar form here is beautifully seen, as well as its effects on the adjacent and sub- jacent strata. It overlays a blackish shale resembling (probably from its altered state) in no respect the shale of the corresponding stratum ; and on the west extremity it is overlayed by a few thin seams of freestone. The blue shale (slate-clay) lyingabove the foul band of limestone, on which the course of the trap seems to have been arrested is changed to the colour of brick, quite like what it is when burnt Near the trap, in the shales in its course, large masses, of what from description we believe to be magnesite, has been found. To take a position on the west point of the trap, and enumerate what we find around within a few hundred yards, a remarkable catalogue is produced. South-east and east the main limestone is close at hand ; to the south-west and north-west lie all the limestones from the foul band upwards, including about twenty bands of ironstone, all at the outcrop ; and ou the north there is a large deposit of peat. The trap is used as road metal, if we are allowed to use the common phrase. Alluvial Deposits, — The north-east corner of the parish is al- most entirely covered with peat, in some places to the depth of 12 feet. Throughout, it consists of a fibrous mass, containing a vast number of trees of all sizes, generally lying with their roots to the west, stems of reeds, large leaves of plants, and hazel nuts. In some places, the peat merely overlays the outcroppings of the limestone, freestone, &c. but more generally a dense arenacious clay containing boulders, in which near its surface the roots of plants in some places are found . It is common to find beets (sheaves) of lint and quantities of lint -seed five, six, and seven feet below the surface of the peat, in what no doubt had been steeping pools. 3 CARLUKR. 575 With few exceptions, the dense clay found under the peat per- vades the whole district. A deposit of fine quartzose sand, fit for the crystal manufactory, is found on the south base of Kingslaw ; and in the valley near Lee, and on the banks of the Clyde, but much above its present bed, extensive deposits of sand and gravel occur, as at Braehead, Gills, Waygateshaw, and Milton- Lockhart, The soil necessarily is of the same quality as the subsoil, modi- fied by the disintegration of some of the rocks, by the air, by heat, and by artificial processes. Above the old red sandstone, however, in the south-eastern division, the soil is, to use a common phrase, lighter. The loamy soils are found at places favourable only from their position, as the flats around rising grounds, the holms of the Clyde, &c. Clay fit for a variety of purposes, such as brick-making and the pottery manufactures, abounds. Large deposits of white plastic clay are found in Braidwood lands, at Thorn, &c. On the Hyndshaw lands, in the north-west, there is a good ex- ample of an ancient lake converted into a flat deep rich soil. In some places, the depth of the soil is found to be many feet, consist- ing of slimy layers, and at other places the clay projects in the form of what may have been little islets. Tradition dates its ex- istence at no remote period. An outlet seems to have been got by cutting through the rock on its western boundary. On its mar- gin, there are places named Waterlands and Bogside. Many fathoms under the surface, the course of a considerable river was discovered some years ago, while working one of the under seams of coal at Orchard ; and lately, near the same place, and in the same plane, in the cannel-coal workings, it was again come upon. The coal in its course is worn through and finely polished. We have little hesitation in entertaining the belief that this must have been the continuation of the river which at one time flowed through Lee Valley, of which positive evidence exists in addition to what is implied in the word Lee. * The courses of our numerous little streams arising in the higher parts of the parish, principally from Kingslaw, and flowing towards the Clyde, afford excellent scope to the geological inquirer ; and the equally numerous gills through which these streams flow im- mediately above the Clyde, are (apart from their intrinsic beauty) * Lli, a stream. 576 LANARKSHIRE. sections of the strata, presenting many interesting geological phe- nomena. Zoology. — Roe-deer are still found, though few in number, in the Gills opening to the Clyde, and especially in the woods of Milton-Lockhart. Pheasants have increased much of late. The badger is now extinct, and the otter nearly so. The cross-bill, after an absence of eleven years, has again paid us a visit, in con- siderable numbers. (August 1888.) Botany. — The Flora of the district is rich, as might be expected, from the variety of soil and exposure, including sheltered glens, marshes, open meadows, and moorland. We possess, however, no rare plants, unless Carduus nutans^ musk-thistle; Epipadis latifolia^ broad-leaved helleborine, found at Mauldslie, and Do* roniaan pardalianches^ great leopardVbane, found in abundance at Hallcraig, be considered such. II. — Civil History. The only account of the parish, that we are aware of, is to be found in Hamilton of Wishaw's manuscript description of the sheriffdom of Lanark, contained in the Advocates' Library, Edin- burgh. Scattered notices of Carluke likewise occur in the eccle- siastical histories, and in some pamphlets and sermons published in the seventeenth century. From these, as well as from the pa* rish records, it is sufficiently obvious, that our good people were imbued with fully their own share of the covenanting spirit, which distinguished the west of Scotland. During the earlier period of the reign of the first Charles, a manifesto was published at Carluke kirk door, denouncing the reigning monarch and his posterity, which caused much commo- tion, and was followed by a strict inquiry. The minister of the parish, Mr John Weir, appears to have abandoned his chaige for fourteen or fifteen weeks, in order to perform military duty against Montrose in 1645. The sederunt of session bearing the date of the 26th November in that year, professes to be " the first ses- sion after ye minister his returne and ye defait of ye enimies at Philiphaugh.'' AAer his said return, the minister, with his el- ders, seems to have taken strict account with those accused of '< traffiquing with ye enemies,'' condemning several to '* publict re- pentance" for so doing. * ' This traffiquing^ in most instances, amounted to no more» than merely procuring a protection from the royal general. Amongst those rebuked is •*> Helen AUan, who CARLUKE. 577 ' At a later period, William Lockhart of Wicketshaw, with a party of Carluke men, was one of the first to take a share in the rising, which terminated in the defeat at Rullion Green. * For his share in this transaction, a sentence of forfeiture was passed against his property, and that of Bell of Westerhouse, who had accompanied him.-f- In^the proclamation, dated 9th May 1668, authorizing the seizure of those persons who had refused to avail themselves of the bill of indemnity, passed the previous year, there occur the names of no less than fourteen Carluke parishioners, — a number, we believe, greater than that belonging to any of the other parishes implicated. These, individuals were, — William Jack, William and John Gilkersons, William Frame, Archibald, Robert, and Gabriel Forrest, Thomas Martin, John Secular, James Armstrong, William King, Archibald Hastie, Robert Smith, and William Brown. Amongst the first ten individuals who were condemned for being concerned in the Pentland rising, and exe- cuted on Friday the 7th December 1666, was Gavin Hamilton, in Park of Mauldslie, an elder of the parish. X Jjond'Oumers. — The barony of Lee is situated partly in the pa- rish of Carluke, and partly in that of Lanark. It has been the pro- perty of the Lockharts since they came into Scotland, with other Norman families in the reign of David L, and is now held by Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart of Lee and Carnwath, Bart whose younger brother Alexander represents the county in Parliament. The barony of Braidwood belonged formerly to the Earls of lDouglas,§ on whose forfeiture in 1455 it was bestowed upon the lEarls of Angus. It passed into the possession of Chancellor ^Maitland, then to the Earl of Lauderdale, and ultimately to the ^Douglases again. It was sold by James the last Marquis of Dou- m protection, but procured it not." The buying of plundered goods appears %o have been viewed as a heinous crime. Keeping "* comniities as a committieLnan/' propynes/* and being ** a souldier*' were the crimes of some. * Kirkton*s Church History of Scotland, p. 234. f Acts of the Couit of Justiciary in ]667. ^ Sam8on*s Riddle, or, a bunch of bitter wormwood bringing forth a bundle of smelling myrrh, p. i. The following is the inscription upon a tombstone in the burial-ground of Hamil- ton, lying upon the heads of John Parker, Gavin Hamilton, James Hamilton, and Christopher Strang, who suffered at Edinburgh, 7th December 1666. Stay, passenger, take notice what thou reads ; At Edinburgh lie our bodies, here our beads. Our right hands stood at Lanark,— these we want Because with them, we sware the Covenant. § Hamilton's Account. 578 LANARKSHIRE. glas to the Lockharts of Carnwath, and is now the property of va- rious heritors, wHo hold of Sir Norman Lockhart. Waygateshaw, formerly Wicketshaw, forms part of the barony of Touchadam, in Stirlingshire. It was long in the possession of a branch of the family of Lockhart, but was sold in the reign of George II. by William Lockhart of Wicketshaw. Part of it has recently reverted to the family, having become the property of William Lockhart of Milton- Lockhart, but the principal and most valuable portion, including the mansion-house, belongs to Samtiel Steel, Esq. of Waygateshaw. The barony of Milton, now called Milton- Lockhart, to distin- guish it from another barony of the same name in the lower ward, was an ancient possession of the Whitefords* of Whiteford. Since they alienated it about 1 640 it has beep possessed by several families, and is now the property of William Lockhart, Esq. of Milton- Lockhart and Germistown. Kirkton, anciently church lands belonging to the Abbey of Kel- so, was in 1662 erected into a barony by Charles IL, in favour of Walter Lockhart, a cadet of the family of Wicketshaw, at that time its proprietor. It now belongs to John Hamilton, Esq. of Fairholm. The most extensive barony in the parish is that of Mauldslie. It was granted, with other possessions, to the Danielstons or Den- nistowns of Newark, by a charter of Robert II. dated 1374. Prom them it passed by marriage in the year 1402, to the Maxwells of Calderwood,f in whose possession it remained till 1640,| when it was sold to Arthur Erskine of Scotscraig. From him it passed, by purchase, first to the laird of Alva, and afterwards to Sir Daniel Carmichael, second son of the first Lord Carmichael, an- cestor to the Earls of Hyndford. On the death of Andrew, the last earl, in 1817, the unentailed part, situated on the Clyde, was, along with the castle, inherited by his nephew, Archibald Nisbet, Esq. of Carfin. The upper part passed, with the Car- michael estates, to the heir of entail, and now belongs to Sir Windham Carmichael Anstruther of Elie and Carmichael, Bart. * The discontents, which eventually led to the destruction of Regent MortoUf were greatly augmented in 1576, by his putting to the torture Adam Whiteford of Milton, with his nephew, John Semple of Beltrets, on suspicion of a conspiracy* Aikman*s Hist. Vol. iii. p. 18, and Balfour's Annals of Scotland, VoL L p. 364. Aikman by mistake calls him VVineford. t Douglas* Baronage, p. 53. t From a censure in the session books against John Maxwell, younger of Maulds- lie, the former proprietors appear to have been still residing there in 16^ CARLUKE. 579 The estate of Whiteshaw, originally part of the barony of Mau Ids- lie, was lately sold by General Sir James Stewart Denham, Bart. to the Shotts Iron Company. Belston, also originally part of the barony of Mauldslie, passed through the Livingstons, Lindsays, and Maxwells of Calderwood, and is now the property of Lord Douglas of Douglas. Hindshaw is at present, and has been for many ages, part of the extensive possessions of the Baillies of Lamington. Valued Rent of the Parish.-^ Sir Norman Lockhart of Lee, ... William Lockhart of Milton-I..ockbart, Sir Windham C. Anstrutber, Lord Douglas of Belstain, A. Bailie Cochrane of Hindshaw. Archibald Nisbet of Mauldslic, Shotts Iron Company, VVhiteshaw, Samuel Steel of Waygateshaw, James Brown of Orchard and Lainshaw, John Hamilton of Kirkton, James Hanrey of Brown lee, Nathaniel Stevenson of Braidwood, James Gilchrbt of Gillfoot. Proprietors of Mashock Mill, James Bell of Westerhousc, Heirs of Colonel Robertson of Hallcraig, James Wilson of Kilcadzow, Alexander Macdonald of Springfield, 96 Heritors of inferior valuation, 54 Heritors in all possessing of valuation. Family of Lockhart — The only family of ancient note, now more immediately connected with the parish, is that of the Lock- harts. From time immemorial* they have possessed property in the parish, and Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart of Lee and Carnwath, chief of the name, is still the principal heritor. For an account of the family of Lee, see Lanark parish. Mr Lockhart of Milton- Lockhart is descended from Stephen, the second son of Sir Stephen Lockhart of Cleghorn, armour- bearer to King James III., and head of the principal branch of the house of Lee. Stephen Lockhart of Wicketshaw, great grand- son of the Stephen aforesaid, married Grizel, daughter of Walter Carmichael of Hyndford,* by whom he had three sons, William, who succeeded him, f Robert Lockhart of Birkhill, and Walter • Douglas Peerage, Vol. i. p. 754. j William Lockhart, as mentioned before, was leader in the seventeenth century of the Lanarkshire Whigs. Robert of Hirkhill had a horse shot under him at Both, well Bridge. Whilst concealing himself after the battle, the Covenanters in his com- L.725 5 6 560 6 500 551 10 6 470 414 14 10 380 325 14 303 6 8 300 134 2 2 109 4 4 95 15 82 66 13 4 60 55 51 795 7 8 . 6000 "o 580 LANARKSHIRE. Lockhart of Kirkton. Of these three, the elder branch became extiDct in 1776 by the death, without issue, of Sir William Lock- hart Denham, Bart, grandson of William Lockhart of Wicket- shaw. The representation of the family thereupon doYoWed upon the late Major- General William Lockhart, great grandson of Robert Lockhart of Birkhill; and on the death of Allan Lockhart of Cleghorn in 1805, he became the undoubted head, in the male line, of that branch of the Lockharts. On the death of his grand- uncle, James Somerville of Corhouse, in 1767, he also became the representative, in the female line, of the Somervilles of Cam- busnethan. His nephew, William Lockhart of Milton-Lockhart, is, afler Sir Norman Lockhart, the most eztensiye proprietor in the parish. Eminent Characters* — The only native of the parish of emi- nence was Major- General Roy, famed as a civil and military en- gineer, as also for his standard work on Roman antiquities. Chal- mers, in his Caledonia, Vol. ii. p. 64, professes entire ignorance of his birth-place, as does also Chambers in his Lives of Eminent Scotchmen. But the parish register mentions his birth at Milton- head, on 4th May 1726. His brother Dr Roy was also bom in this parish, and held the bursary in Glasgow College, instituted for natives of Carluke by the Countess of Forfar. Robert Forrest and John Greenshields, well known for their eminent skill as self- taught sculptors, are also natives of this parish. Mr Greenshields died on 19th April 1835. Antiquities.— The Roman road, which passed through Clydes- dale to the western extremity of the wall of Antoninus, ran through this parisli for several miles, in a north-westerly direction ; and its course may still be traced from the Roman camp, near Cleg- horn, by Kilcadzow, Coldstream, Yieldsbields, and Dyke to Bel- ston, af^er passing which, it runs by Castlehill into Cambusnethan parish. A portion of it is still very perfect at the Dyke, accom- panied with its wall or dike, a mound of earth on the north-east pany, proposed to join in a psalm of praise. Birkhill remonstrated, reminding bis oompanions, that the enemy wur in close pursuit. He look refuge on the top of a tree; but had scarcely got himself safely ensconced, when the soldiers pounced uj^ou his friends, who shortly afterwards ended their career on the scaffold. Mr Lockhart, however, did not long surrive them. Wotn out^by fatigue and priTations, he was soon after found dead in a moas, and was secretly buried, after night-fall, within the church of Carluke. The sword and pistols he wore at his death have been preserved by his fiunily. Walter of Kirkton at first held a commission in the Royal army, but afterwards espoused the cause of the Covenanters. He held the oflSce of Paymaster of the Forces in Scotland, and died in Edinburgh Castle, in 1743, aged 87. CARLUKE. 5B1 side of the road. At Belston, a branch ran north, by Hyndshaw and Shotts, to an opening in the wall of Antoninus, near Came- Ion. A parish tradition affirms Hyndshaw to have been the site of a Roman town, but there are now no circumstances to corrobo- rate the report At Cairney Mount, a knoll about 400 yards to the west of the Roman road, and at Law, in a spot likewise to the west of Wattling Street, several coffins have been found, each form- ed of six flag-stones, containing ashes, and occasionally, at both places, rude urns full of ashes. Last year, the sexton dug up, in the burial-ground, a coffin, formed of one stone, with a lid likewise composed of a single stone. The coffin was oblong on the outside, but in the interior, cut out to the shape of the human body. Its length is 6 feet, it is 10 inches deep in the inside, and contained a few bones. The only engraving on it was a rude cross cut upon one end of the lid. Till lately, one of those remarkable monuments of antiquity, called standing stones, stood at Cairney Mount ; but the hope of finding a hidden treasure induced some rude hand to destroy it. Another, however, is still to be seen at Braidwood. It is sup- posed to have stood at the side of a Roman road passing from Lanark, across the bridge of the Mouse beneath Cartland Crags^ through Lee valley, across Fiddler's burn at Chapel, and thence by Braidwood into the main street A celt or stone hatchet ; el- fin-bolts (flint and bone arrow-heads) ; elfin-pipes (pipes with re- markably small bowls) ; numerous coins of the Edwards, and of later dates, have been found in the neighbourhood. A copper coin, of the reign of Commodus, and a silver medal of the Em- press Faustina, was lately found at Belston. Gold coips of the Roman period have also been found at Bumhead and Castlehill, in the line of the Roman road. Hallhar, a square tower, beautifully situated in a fine dell, is said to have been built in the eleventh century. Early as this date is, the appearance of the stair, passing up the walls, in the thickness of the building, * together with some other circumstances, would seem to countenance the supposition of its great antiquity. It is 52 feet in height, 24 feet square on the outside, and 14 feet square in the interior. It contains a vault beneath, and three apartments, * Fiom the Tent of the only fire-place in the tower passing up the north wall, the Hair if of course interrupted on that side, and to arrive at its continuation, it is neces- larj to peas across the floor of one of the apartments. This inartificial method of SKcnt woold seem to argue a remote date. LANARK. P p 582 LANARKSHIRE. the one above the other, the uppermost of these being likewise closed with an arched roof. The beams for supporting the floors, which constitute the ceilings of the two intermediate apartments, instead of being inserted into the wall, rest upon projecting brackets of stone. In a deed of retour, dated in 1 685, it is called the '* Tower and Fortalice of Braidwood.'' From this, it seems to have been the residence attached to that ancient barony. The remains of a tower of considerable antiquity i^ embraced in the buildings attadi* ed to the house of Waygateshaw. At Wallans, a small portioD(tf Milton^Lockhart estate, on the south side of the Clyde, but io Carluke parish, and, at one time, evidently an islet, part of an old wall still stands, said to be the ruin of a fortalice, where, on some perilous occasion. Sir William Wallace found a refuge. It is some* times called Castle Wallans and Temple*hall. At the south of the parish there had been a chapel of St Oswald, where some se^ pulchral remains have been lately dug up. The other chapel, which Chalmers places in the north-east of our parish, belongs to Cambusnethan. Ha'hill (Haugh-hill), a mound near Mauldslie caatle, supposed to be the accumulated earth and ashes of the ancient burial-place, is an object of some curiosity. It is now covered with large trees, a flat spot on the top remaining clear, where the two last Earls of Hyndfbrd were buried. It may be about 60 or 70 feet in height, and covers several acres of ground* Modem BuUdingB. — The only edifices in the parish which have any pretence to architectural beauty are three in number. Mauldslie Castle, built in 1793 by Thomas, Eari of Hyndfinrd, from a design of Adam, is a turreted structure of great elegance, situated in an extensive and richly-wooded park, through which the Clyde flows for upwards of a mile. Milton-Lockhart^ a new house, in the manorial style, has re- cently been built by Mr Lockhart from a design furnished by Mr Burn. The details are taken from ancient Scottish buildings, and it is generally considered one of the best works of that distinguish- ed architect Its situation, on a peninsula which projects into the valley of the Clyde, with deep glens and wooded hills in the back- ground, is singularly beautifiil. Mr Lockhart has also built a bridge of three arches over the Clyde, on the model of the old bridge of Bothwell Braidwood House, the seat of Nathaniel Stevenson, Esq. oc- CARLUKE. 683 copies a camniAiuling aituation on the high ground which over- hangs the vale of Clyde, and is a commodious and handsome struc- ture. Parochial Begiiters. — The parish registers are preserved in five volumes, two of which (the oldest) are much tattered, the others in good preservation. The first entry of session proceedings bears date 6th August 1645. The minutes are regularly kept from that time till March 1646, whence there is an omission till 1650. Another omission occurs extending from 1662 to 1694. From the latter year until 181S, an exact account of session matters has been preserved. From 1818, however, no regular entry of mi- nutes had been made till 1882. A list of births, &c. has been kq)t from 1735 to the present time, but it is, of course, v^ry li- mited.* EcdesiasHcal History, — As stated in aformer part of this account, the church of Carluke, with its teinds, and all its rights and per- tinents, was granted by Robert L to the monks of Kelso. They, accordingly, continued to enjoy its revenues, performing the duties of the parish, through means of a curate, until the year 1586.-|- At that period the Earl of Bothwell, commendator of the abbacy of Kelso, granted to Sir James Maxwell of Calderwood, a lease of the teinds of Carluke, for a lifetime, and nineteen year^ after- wards, at a rent of 110 merks yearly. In 1617, this lease was ex- tended to two additional lifetimes and two nineteens. In 1607, about twenty years after the grant to Sir James Maxwell, the ab- bacy of Kelso being erected into a temporal lordship in favour of Robert, Lord Roxburgh, the teinds of Carluke passed into the possession of that nobleman, reserving, however, the rights of the Calderwood family during the continuance of their tack. In 1637, Maxwell of Calderwood sold, to the several heritors, the right to their respective teinds during the remainder of his long lease. The landholders of the parish having, accordingly, for nearly two cen* turies, been required to pay only that portion of their teinds which ^ From an entry in one of the session books, Mr John Scott* when translated to Glasgow, appears to have carried off with him a Tolume of parish records, of a date between 1662 and 1694 Mr Scott's heirs would be doing no more than an act of jiitticft, were they to examine his papers, and return the book (if it is still extant) to the proper owners. An entry in the session-book, bearing date 27th February 1656, refers to an act of session, record^ in the books of date ** Mail 1636." This is also lost. t James Cunningham of Qlencaim appears to have obtained a grant of Carluke tebds, prior even to that date. In his account of this matter,- Chalmers docs not dis- pl^ bis supposed Mcurafiy. I" 584 LANARKSHIRE. was allocated for the minister's stipend, the original lay impropria- tor had been altogether lost sight of. About 1822, however, dur- ing the prosecution of a process for augmentation of stipend, an inquiry into the matter was instituted ; it was then found that the heritors had been just upon the eve of becoming absolute proprie- tors of their own teinds ; for not only had the Calderwood lease expired, but nearly forty years in addition, when, of course, all rights of the actual impropriator would have been prescribed. The Roxburgh family, having their attention thus called to the sub- ject, of course took immediate steps to con6rm their almost obsolete rights. When the abbacy of Kelso was conferred upon Lord Roxbingb in 1607, the patronage (not the teinds, as Chalmers supposes,) of Carluke, was reserved to the Crown. About the middle of the seventeenth century, Lockhart, Laird of Lee, Cromwell's Lieu- tenant and nephew-in-law, obtained from Charles L a gift of the patronage of Lanark and Carluke. In 1751, the patronage of Lanark was, by a decision of the law courts, re-assumed by the 1^^ Crown, on the ground that the grant had been made whilst the ■ '' King was under coercion, and was, consequently, null and Toid* " The Lee family have continued to present to the living of Car- luke, under protest by the Crown oflScers. The following is a list of the ministers of Carluke subseque^^ to the Reformation, as far as any records of them remain in tb® parish. The dates attached to their names are the earliest p^* riods at which they are mentioned, either in the parish records ^^ in secular deeds, as wills, inventories, &c. — 1636. John Linds^*'^' Baillie, in his letters, mentions that on his refusal to preach t^^^ fore the synod on the last Thursday of September 1637, ^^** Lindsay was ordered by the Bishop of Glasgow to do so. An timation was whispered to him, whilst ascending the pulpit, to ^ ware of touching on the service-book in his sermon. He took \0^ hint, and thus escaped the vengeance which was inflicted by tU- ^ women * with neaves, staves, and peats, hut no stones^* on \^""^^ Annan, who had preached the previous day and defended the ^^ ^ turgy. Being drowned in debt, he had to leave his parish, ai^^ j seek refuge in Ireland. — (Stevenson's History of Church ai^^ State.)— 1641. John Weir. A Mr Weir, (supposed to be tk^ ^ Carluke minister, as no other of the name is mentioned that time,) is stated by Guthrie as sent to Ireland in the sun^- 3 CARLUKE. 585 Df 1644, to procure adherents to the Solemn League and nant 1650. William Jack, was ejected in 1662, and died mark in 1669. 1663. Mr Birnie was prelatic curate after expulsion of Mr Jack. The good folks gave him by no IS a cordial reception, as may be guessed from the following e in Leighton's works : " 17th September 1670. The Lords e Council having appointed some ministers from other parts each in such churches within the diocese of Glasgow, as do need their help ; I desire the Rev. Mr James Aird of Tor- bestow his pains especially in the kirk of Carluke, for bring- he people to frequent the public ordinances, removing their dices, and cooling their passions." A robbery of the curate of like is mentioned at a meeting of Covenanters held at Doug- Q 1689.— (Faithful Contendings, page 36a)— 167*2. Peter ^and Alexander Livingston were indulged ministers, crammed, as usual, into one parish. — 1689. John Oliphant died mi- r of Carstairs in 1698. — 1694. John Scott, a preacher so »us in his day, as to empty the neighbouring churches. He minister of the Outer High Church, Glasgow. — 1713. James i. — 1732. Andrew Orr was settled after violent opposition, proved a most useful pastor. — 1763. James Scott, D. D. 3ia James Walker.— 1819. John Wylie. III. — Population. Id 1755, the population of Carluke amounted to 1459 1791, - - - 1730 1801, - - 1756 1811, . . . 2311 [>n Mr Kid*8 tombstone in Carluke church-yard was the following epitaph, Mitirely obliterated : A faithful, holy pastor here lies hid. One of a thousand, Mr Peter Kid, Firm as a stone, but of a heart contrite, A wrestling, praying, weeping Israelite. A powerful preacher, far from ostentation ; A son of thunder, and of consolation. His face, his speech, and humble walk might tell That he was in the mount and Peniel. He was in Patmos, and did far surpass. In fixed steadfastness, the rocky Bass. His love to Christ made his life to be spent In feeding flocks and kids beside his tent. His frail flesh could not equal paces keep With his most willing sp'rit, but fell asleep- His soul's in heaven, where it was much before, His flesh, rests here in hopes of future glore. Passenger ! ere thou go, sigh, weep and pray, Help, Lord, because the godly do decay. 586 LANARKSHIBE. In 1821, the population anioimted to - 2925 1831, - ft288 1838» »7d There is no accurate account of the state of the populatioD previous to 1755 ; but it would seem, for at least one hundred yean before, to have been as numerous as it was at that date, if not considerably more do. The increase between 1801 and 1831, is to be imputed, principally, to the opening up of the resources of the parish, by improved agriculture^ and the formation of highways and parish roads, as well as to the extreme cheapness of fuel aod provisions, which induced many families, employed in weaving, io take up their residence in the parish. The rapid growth of our population since 1831 has been produced, almost exclusively, bj the influx of masons, miners, and other labourers, which the recent* ly established worxs of the Shotts Iron Company have occasioned. Character qfthe People* — The population being at present, as it were, in the very state of transition, presents an interesting sub- ject of observation to those accustomed to study the formation or change of general character, but, at the same time^predudea any- thing like a decided statement upon the subject. The native in- habitants till recently possessed, and, to a great degree, do still retain, much of that intelligence, and sterlings though unpolished integrity, which are supposed to constitute a main feature in the unsophisticated Scottish character. * Mingled, however, with this patriarchal steadiness of principle, is a considerable portion of that character's other ingredient, — a certain knowing shrewd- ness, which, whilst it would scorn an actual breach of honesty or morality, is apt, sometimes, to sail so very near the wind, as ap- parently to place strict honour in some danger. The recent improvements in the parish, and extensive intro- duction of strangers, whilst they are obviously producing a higher polish, and greater activity of mind, are as obviously bringio? along with them much of the profligacy and laxness of principle so frequently found in more advanced society. Ancient customs and superstitions have, as might be expected, rapidly disappeared. There may still, however, be seen hapg>^ in some byres, a phial of Lee-penny water, to keep the cows fro"'* parting calf, and to preserve the milk from changing. Td obtain the former of these objects, the barbarous practice of burying * * Their own sober and sedate morality is a subject of some pride to those vbo *** parish born. All the violations of public peace and propriety, which are no«^ ^ common with us, are sure to be charged by a native, against ** thae new ineomt^ CARLUKE. 587 live calf beneath the step of the byre door, was actually put into execution, within a few years, by the servants of a respectable proprietor in the neighbourhood. The customs formerly observed at weddings* and burials, f have, during the present generation, become almost wholly extinct. The habits of the people are now, in the highest degree, cleanly and tidy. Indeed, the houses of no village in Scotland can ex- hibit a more comfortable, and, at the same time, substantial ap- pearance than do those of Carluke. IV. — Industry. The paririi is liilly nx milef by four when Muared, which gxfta a lurfiice of imperial of - - . - 15,800 Of which in woode and phmtations, . . 600 orchardsy • ' - 110 roads, - - ^ - 80 watar oourses, exelasiTe of Cljde» - 21 undiyided oonunoot - - 86 sites of bouses, - - 10 land, ... 400 1,807 14,058 There is the greatest possible difference in the value of the land. In the highest parts, in some places, it may not be worth * Of wedding amusements, that of ** creeling the young guidman,'* used to be one of the most favoured. On the day following the marriage, the friends of the- joung couple being asBembled, a creel was bound with cords to the back of the bride- groon^ who immdiately set off at full speed, followed by those assembled, all striv- ing to orerwhelm him by pitching stones into the creeL The sport continued until tbe brid^room had fre«d himsdf by speed of foot, or the bride had succeeded in cutting the cords with a pair of scissors. The joke was, to insert the * girdle clips* amongst tbe cords. t The following order was, not very long ago, invariably observed at the funeral of all persons, who aimed, in any degree, at respectability of station. In ** bidding to the burial*" no hour was mention^, as ten o'clock in the morning was understood to be the time of assembling, and two or three o'clock in the afternoon, that of *^ lift* ioff.** The intervening time was occupied in treating with ' services,' tbe various individuals as they arrived ; these * services' being interspersed with numerous lengthened prayers and graces. Tbe mingled worship and entertainment terminated, >nd tbe people proceeded to the church-yard, only after a scout , stationed on some 'i&og gRNind in the neighbourhood, gave intimation that no additional mourner was - mer, and 2s. during winter. The inhabitants of the parish are famed as hedgers and ditchers, so much so, indeed, as to be en- graged from various parts of Scotland, at a considerable distance. A large proportion of our hand-loom weavers used formerly to be smployed, but the small emolument now made in that branch of industry, together with the high wages given for day labour, have reduced the number to less than one-half. There are still, how- ever, 225 individuals so employed ; those engaged in zebra or figured work make 9s. a- week; and those at plain work only 4s. 6d. ; the average on the whole being 6s. 9d. The wages thus earned at weaving are, L. 75, 18s. 9d. per ireek, or L. 3948, 1 5s. per year ; 200 females are at present engag- ed in sewing Ayrshire work, some of whom make as much as 8s. per week, but the average is only ds. 6d. The amount earned is therefore L. 35 per week, or L. 1820 per year. Wages paid for labour by the iron company are L. 377 per week, or L. 19,604 per year. V. — Parochial Economy. Villages. — The village of Carluke has, within a few years, swelled into the size, and assumed the appearance of a thriving town,f — its • The mining operationt are in a sense just begun. In a short time, thrice the quantity will be required. f To those who are acquainted with the town and parish of Carluke, the former rootaining numerous streets of comfortable, well-built houses, — the latter ftilly dirfd- ed, and in a high state of cultivation, the following circumstance mav convey an idea of the very rapid stride made by this neighbourhood. Tlicrc is still alive one indi- 592 LANARKSHIHE. present population amounting to 2 125. It was erected, in 1662, into a burgh of barony, under the name of Kirkstyle, with the privilege of holding a weekly market, and a fair twice in the year. This pri- vilege, so far as the weekly market is concerned, has not been act^ ed upon ; but the town is well 'supplied with shops for the sale of bread,* butcher-meat, and every other article of provision. The recent act for the establishment of municipal government in Scotch towns, having been taken advantage of by Carluke, a tax of six- pence a pound on house rent is levied for the purpose of support- ing a few constables, and of cleaning and lighting the streets. There are three small villages in the parish, viz. Braidwood, Kilcadzow, and Yieldshields ; and if the different lines of houses, lately erected by the Shotts Iron Company for the accommodation of their work-people, and which have been prudently placed at a C4)n- siderable distance from each other, were taken into account, they would, together constitute another populous village. They have already erected 94 excellent dwellings. Means of Communication. — The parish is intersected with nu- merous parish roads, amounting, in all, to upwards of 35 miles, on which about L. 300 are annually expended. Five miles of the Stir- ling and Carlisle highway, and three miles of the one between Glasgow and Carnwath, lie within our limits. There are no stage-coaches running on our roads, the mail be- ing brought from Airdrie and Lanark by a gig ; but there is a re- port that the Glasgow and Wishaw Railway is to be prolonged to the neighbourhood of Carluke town. Ecclesiastical State, — I'he church, a substantial building, erect- ed in 1799, at an expense of L. 1000, is situated almost in the centre of the parish, and is consequently as conveniently placed as it could be ; none of the inhabitants being more than four miles dis- vidual (if not more) who remembers since the village of Carluke contained only four cottages, with the kirk and manne. At that period, there were neither made roiuls, nor even enclosures (with'the exception, perhaps, of a few on the banks of the Clyde,) within the parish. Wheeled carriages had never been seen, the only means of con- veyance being sledges or horseback. The inhabitants of the upper part of the parish had to find their way to kirk and mill, along the side of Carluke burn, " but roony's the time," quoth our informant, " that we laired and stuck fast and firm.** At a still earlier date, there is an entry in the heritors' books, directing d^A/ horses to be sup- plied for the conveyance of 400 slates, with which to repair the roof of the church. Compare this with the loads of metal now conveyed by one horse along the Iron Com- pany's railways, • Forty years ago, the only *' baker's bread" used in the parish, was Is. 6d. worth, brought weekly from Glasgow or Lanark. Of this quantity, sixpence worth went to the manse, whilst the remaining shilling's worth was intended for *< lying in wives" and other sick people. CARLUKE. 593 tant, and very few so far. It contains 1000 sittings, of which 216 are free. This number might be sufficient for the population at the time the church was built, but is now altogether inadequate. The want has been, in one view, supplied by the erection, in 1833, of an elegant Relief chapel, calculated to contain 770 sittings, of which 400 are let. There is, besides, in the village, a meeting- house belonging to the Associate Synod, built in 1797, capable of containing 470 hearers, and having 330 sittings let The Established Church is generally well attended. Its joined members are 900 ; the average number communicating annually, 600. In the Old Light meeting-house the joined members are 320 ; number belonging to the parish communicating, 240. In the Re- lief chapel, the average number of communicants is 500.* The church collections for charity are L. 28 a-year ; for extra parochial objects about L. 15 a-year. In the Old Light, the collections for congregational purposes are L. 60 a-year; for charitable purposes, L. 7, lOs. ; for extra-congregational objects, L. 30. In the Relief, the collections for congregational purposes are L. 68 yearly ; for extra-congregational purposes, L. 12. The manse was built in 1797, at an outlay of L. 356. It has, during the current year, been enlarged and repaired. The ex- penditure for this purpose has been about L. 170. The glebe contains 1 1 acres of land, worth about L. 3 an acre. In 1637, when the first allocation appears to have taken place, the stipend of Carluke was 400 merks of money, and 4 chalders of meal. In 1650, it seems to have been modified and augmented to 3 chalders of victual, two-thirds meal, and one-third barby, with L. 51, 10s. Id. Sterling in money. In 1774, an augmentation was granted of L. 31, 9s. 8d. In 1803, a further augmentation was obtained of 2 chalders of victual, and L. 1, 13s. 4d. in money, making altogether 5 chalders of victual, with L. 84, 1 5s. Id. of money. In 1819, the stipend was raised to 16 chalders of vic- tual, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements, at which it still continues. The minister of the Associate Synod meeting-house receives L. 122 yearly, with a good house and garden. His stipend is raised from seat-rents, collections, and the rent of property. The salary of the Relief minister is L. 110, procured from seat-rents and collections. * Tbif number of 500 communicants, we must observe, is given solely on the au» thority of those connected with the chapel. 594 LANABKSHIRE. The following is believed to be a correct list of the parisbiooms belonging to the various religious sects : Establbbinentt 8806 ; Relief, 874 ; Associate Synod, 369 ; United Secession, 162 ; Bo- man Catholic, 58; Unitarians, 41; Methodists, 11 ; Reformed Pres- bytery, 11 ; Baptists ^^ > Episcopalians, 2. Education. — Besides the parochial school, there are in the pa- rish six others, all unendowed* The branches of instruction are those usually taught at country schools, reading, writing, geogra- phy, and arithmetic, with now and then a little Latin. The peo- ple have been so far alive to the benefits of education, that there is no native parishioner above fifteen years of age unable to read and write. The income of the parish schoolmaster arises from L. 34 of salary : his fees as session-clerk, and the school fees, which, with 110 scholars at an average yearly charge of 10s« each, amount to L. 55 per annum. Both the school and schoolmaster's house are upon a scale altogether inadequate to the parish, — the school so much so, indeed, as seriously to affect the health of the numerous children attending it. The Countess of Forfar, in 1787, bequeathed L. 500 to form a bursary for the education in Glasgow grammar-school and college of a boy from each of the parishes of Carluke, Lanark, Laming- ton, Shotts, and Bothwell. Literature, — A parochial library was established in the town of Carluke in 1827, and contains at present 600 volumes. The en- trance money is 5s. and yearly contribution 2s. There is a libra- ry of 400 volumes at Yieldshields, and one at Braidwood of 200 volumes. A Useful Knowledge Society, in which are delivered weekly lectures on subjects of general science, was instituted in 1836, and, at present, numbers 44 members, some of whom dis- play much interest in scientific discussions. Connected with this institution, is a small museum of fossils, antiquarian remains, &c. with a limited collection of books on suitable subjects. Friendly Societies. — A parish Friendly Society was instituted in 1792, connected with which are 35 members, each paying 2s. 6d. of entry money, and a penny a week of subscription. Its present funds are L. 50. The allowance granted to the sick is 3s. 6d. a week, continued during twelve months. Another Friendly Society, upon the same principles, has been recently commenced by the workmen connected with the Castlehill iron-works. Savings Bank. — A savings bank has been in operation in this pa- CABLUKE. 595 rish since 1815, the benefits accruing from which have of late been both felt and prized by the inhabitants. The following state- ment, drawn up on the 11th of November 1838, will fully explain its flourishing condition. Amount of depodts at last annual balance in Novenober 1837, L. 889 4 Increase during last year from interest and new deposits, - 418 2 5 Present amount of deposits, L* 1907 2 9 Number of depositors at 1 1th November 1837, - 94 Additional during last year, - - 49 Withdrawn, - - 21 ^28 Present number of depoattors, 122 Aocoonts under L. 5, - - - 29 from L. 5 to L. 10, - 37 L. 10 to L. 20, . . 36 L. 20 to L. 30, . 20 ■122 Poor. — The number upon the poor's roll may be stated at 45, the average yearly allowance to each of whom is L. 4. The sources whence are drawn the funds to meet this demand are the following : Interest of 2000 merks bequeathed by Sir Daniel Carmicbael of Mauldslie, . - . . . . L. 490 Hearse dues, - « - - . -300 Half of cburch collections, - - - . - 14 00 Avenge yearly assessment, ..... 222 L.24d 9 The kirk-session has the management of the following sums : One-half of the church collections, - - - L. 1410 Interest of L. 120, being the remainder of small legacies by Lady Lockhart of Lee and Dr Scott, - - - - 5 L. 19 1 The feu-duties arising from the lands of Spitalshiels, (originally belonging to the Hospital of St Leonard's at Lanark,) the superi- ority of which was acquired in the reign of Charles II. by Lockhart of Lee, are, by the charter, directed to be paid over to the poor of the parishes of Carluke and Lanark. The enforcement of this claim has been for some time neglected. The amount is 60 merks annually. In 1814, John Reid of Nellfield bequeathed to the parish of Car^ lake the sum of L. 2000. The interest of this legacy, (L. 80,) Mr Reid's will directs to be expended in small annuities to twelve persons, six males, and six females, of respectable character, aixd of a rank of life superior to that of mere paupers. It is a 596 LANARKSHIRE. subject of proudy but legitimate boasting with our natiye popu- lation, that it is very rarely any of the " parish-boro** apply for relief from the parochial funds. During the time of the cholera, out of a poor's list of between thirty and forty persons, only four were descendants of parishioners. Of these four persons, one would seem to have a heritable right, or, at least, a strong inbred pre- disposition to the handling of parish money. For, in looking over the records, it appears that for nearly 200 years, there had always been, with but slight exceptions, at least one of the fgunily recdv« ing parochial aid. Fairs. — Two annual fairs are held at Carluke, the one on the 21st of May, the other on the 31st of October. Both are devot- ed almost exclusively to the sale of milk cows, of which a laige number is frequently exposed. Inns. — There are three inns in Carluke, and numerous ale- houses, which afford every facility to the dissipation which is ra- pidly spreading amongst us. Agricultural Society — a Society, instituted in 1833) main* ly for the purpose of improving the breed of cattle. The Socie- ty's cattle show takes place on the last Wednesday of July. T>ie marked improvement of stock since the society commenced is tihe best argument for its utility. March 1839. PARISH OF CARMUNNOCK. PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. REV. JOHN HENDERSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of the parish now called Cannunnock ap- pears in old charters in the yarious forms, Cormannock, Carmanoch, Carmannock, and Curmanock. On the oldest of the communion caps, (date 1707,) it is found in the form Carmannock, and the same form occurs on the tokens still in use of date 1777. The most probable account given of the origin of the name is that which derives it from the Gaelic Coer-mannock, signifying the Monk's fort* Extent^ Boundaries^ Sfc — The original parish is about 4 miles^ long from east to west, and averages 2^ miles in breadth from north to south. There are two annexations, however, quoad sacra tamtum^ the one from the paris|| of Kilbride, and the other from the pa- rish of Cathcart, inclusive of which it is fully 6 miles in length, and 4 in breadth. These annexations were by a regular decreet of the competent court united to the parish of Carmunnock in 1725. The parish originally belonged to the presbytery of Ha- milton, but was by authority of the General Assembly, and with consent of the then incumbent, united to the presbytery of Glasgow in 1597. The village of Carmunnock, which is situated about the centre of the parish, is fully 5 miles to the south of the city of Glasgow ; and the parish is bounded on the east, by the parish of Cambuslang ; on the south, by Kilbride ; on the west, by Eaglesham and Mearns ; and on the north, by Cathcart* Topographical Appearances. — The parish, which is generally elevated, is beautifully diversified with hill and dale. From the higher eminences, particularly from the top of Cathkin-hill, si- tuated towards its eastern boundary, and about 500 feet above the level of the sea, it commands one of the richest and most exten- sive prospects in the west of Scotland. In a dear day, the eye takes in part of sixteen counties. The immediate objects of at- UNARK. Qq 508 LANARKSHIRE. traction are, the city of Glasgow with its extensive suburbs and surrounding villages ; the towns of Rutherglen and Paisley, and the whole of the fertile vale of Clyde from Hamilton to Dumbar- ton, with numerous views of the windings of the river, now crowded with trading vessels and steam-boats conveying goods and pas- sengers in every direction* The distant objects chiefly worthy of notice are, to the east, Arthur's seat, and the Pentland hilL^ in the immediate vicinity of Edinburgh, to the north Benlomond, Benledi, and the neighbouring heights, and to the west, the hills of Arran and different parts of Argyleshire. Climate^ Sfc. — The atmosphere is remarkably pure and healthy, and though, from the elevation of the parish, rather cold than otherwise, has been much ameliorated in this respect within the lost forty years, by the increased quantity of plantation and gene- ral improvements that have been made in agriculture. The pa* rish, however, is still very subject to early and late frosts. The prevailing winds are the south-west, the west, and north-east. The wind from the south-west is often very boisterous, and ge- nerally accompanied with rain. I cannot state any diseases as pe- culiar to the climate, and few places afford so many instances of longevity. It is seldom that any epidemic spreads in the distrid, and it is worthy of remark, that though during the late visitation of Asiatic cholera, (1832), there were cases of that frightful ma- lady in all the surrounding parishes, not one took place in the pa- rish of Carmunnock. Hydrograjihy, — The parish everywhere abounds with perennial springs of excellent water, and there are no fewer than five public wells in the village, which even in seasons of the greatest drought seldom fail to afford an abundant supply. There are a few springs slightly impregnated with carbonate of iron, but there is none per- ceptibly chalybeate to the taste. It is mentioned in the last Sta- tistical Account (published in 1796,) that the parish had been surveyed some time previously, with the view of ascertaining whether a quantity of water sufficient for the supply of the city of Glasgow could be procured. This speaks at once for the quantity and quality of the springs ; but it was found upon the survey, that, if all the springs on the brow of the hill were collected, they could only afford 70 Scots pints in the minute, a supply twn then two- thirds less than what was required. There are no natural lakes of any extent in the parish, and the only stream running through any part of it is a small rivulet called the Kittoch. The White CARMUNNOCK. 599 Cart, however, runs along its western boundary, the banks of which being high and craggy, and thickly wooded, are in some parts very picturesque and beautiful. On this stream is situated the village of Busby, containing a population of nearly 1000, mainly sup- ported by a printfield and cotton-mill. A small portion of this village, within which is the printfield, belongs quoad civilia to the parish of Kilbride, but is annexed quoad sacra to Carmunnock. The other, and by far the greater portion of it, within which is the cotton-mill, is in the parish of Mearns. Geology and Mineralogy, — The parish presents but few remar- kable geological features. Whin or trap-rocks prevail through- out the district In the estate of Cathkin, which is nearly one- third of the parish, almost all below the surface is solid whin, and indeed, the same may be stated of a considerable portion of the remainder. On the same estate there are two fine specimens of basalts. Throughout the parish there are several quarries of decomposed trap much used for farm and parish roads. There is also a quarry of freestone of considerable extent, the stone roughly granulated, but of a very firm texture. A few seams of coal are to be found in the parish, but only one of them has hitherto been wrought, and that very partially. The coal was of an inferior quality, and chiefly used for the burning of lime in the neighbour- ing parish of Kilbride. My own impression is, however, that good coal, to a small extent, exists in the parish, forming, in a few instances, the cropping out of some of the seams that constitute the great coal basin of the Clyde. Limestone and ironstone are also to be met with, both of them of the first quality. Though the former has not yet been wrought, I am informed that a bed of it was nearly contracted for last year ; and a bed of the latter was, about the same time, wrought to a small extent for trial, and may soon attract the notice of persons interested. They are both in the estate of Castlemilk. The general direction of the strata of the parish is from south-west to north-east, and they have almost •inifonnly their dip or declinature towards the Clyde. SoiL — There is no great variety of soil Generally speaking, it may be said to consist either of a free earthy mould, averaging seven inches in depth, on the surface of the whin rock mentioned as so common, or of a wet clayey soil on a retentive bottom, the latter yielding excellent crops when well drained and generously manured, but occasionally so mixed with sand as to render it na- turally poor and unproductive. 600 LANARKSHIRE. II. — Civil History. " During the reign of William the Lion, the territory or ma- nor of Cormanock was possessed by Henry, the son of Anselm, who took from it the local appellation of Henry of Cormanock. He appears as a witness to a number of charters of William the lion, in which he is called, * Henricus de Cormanoc.' Before the year 1189, this Henry, for the salvation of the souls of his father and mother, granted, in perpetual alms, to the abbot and monks of Paisley, the Church of Cormanock, with half a carucate of land in the same manor, and common of pasture, and all other ease- ments ; and he directed, that when he and his wife, Johanna, died, their bodies, with a third part of their goods, should go to the same monastery. The church, &c. continued to belong to the monks of Paisley till the Reformation." — " In 1587, the patronage and tithes of the church of Oarmanock, which were then held by Jx>rd Claud Hamilton, as Commendator of Paisley, for life, were granted to him and his heirs, together with the other property of the monks of Paisley ; and upon his death in 1621, they were inherited by his grandson, James Earl of Abercorn. In 1653, the patronage and tithes of Carmunnock passed, with the Lordship of Paisley, from the Earl of Abercorn, to Sir William Cochran of Cowden, who was created Lord Cochran in 1647, and Earl of Dundonald in 1669. In the following century, the patronage of the church of Carmunnock was acquired bj Stuart of Castlemilk," f Chalmers Caledonia.) The patronage still remains with the descendants of the last mentioned family, the present proprietor of Castlemills, and patron of the parish, James Stirling Stirling, grand-nephew of the late Lady Stuart, being a minor. Land'Owners, — There are in all sixteen heritors, but only two of any considerable extent, viz. the above-mentioned James Stirling Stirling of Castlemilk, whose property extends to more than the half, and Humphry Ewing M'Lae, Esq. of Cathkin, who is in possession of nearly one-third of the parish. With three excep- tions, the remaining 14 are feuars, who at different times have pur- chased a piece of ground from Castlemilk. Parochial Registers. — Before the year 1640, a registration o marriages and births began to be kept; but several parts of the register, from decay and other accidental causes, cannot now be read. There is an entire register both of marriages and births from 1765, and the different parochial records are now kept with great accuracy and neatness. CARMUNNOCK. 601 Antiquities. — In the estate of Castlemilk, there are the remains of a Roman military road, and also of a Roman camp. In the same property, and also in the estate of Cathkin, several pieces of an- cient armour, with camp utensils, have been dug up ; and many tumuli have been met with, in which, when opened, urns formed of clay and rudely carved were found. The urns, when exposed to the air, went all to dust, except one, which was vitrified, and is still to be seen. In one or two instances, they contained a quanti- ty of human bones mixed with earth. The sepulchral cairns, most of which are now destroyed, were in a straight line, and stood on bases of from 6 to 12 falls. Some of them were 6 feet high, and 6 falls on the top, and one of them, part of which is still standing, might measure from 14 to 15 feet in height. When deepening a ditch on the march between Cathkin and Castlemilk, about seven or eight years ago, the bottom of a boat was dis- covered, 10 feet long and 2 feet broad, all of black oak. There are no marks of iron about it, but strong wooden nails. The late proprietress of Castlemilk, Lady Anne Stuart, is sup- posed to have been in her day the most direct descendant of the royal line of that name, and in the House of Castlemilk, one of the most beautiful residences in this part of the country, the un- fortunate Mary Queen of Scots is said to have lodged the night before the battle of Langside. An old thorn tree is pointed out as near the spot where, on the following day, she witnessed the discomfiture of her army ; but perhaps a more likely situation is a rock on the top of Cathkin-hill, which still goes by the name of the Queen* 8 Seat I may add to these notices, that, a few years ago, on taking down the old offices belonging to one of the Castlemilk farm-houses, a number of silver coins were found, of the reigns of Elizabeth, James L, and Charles I. and II. They were wrapped up in what appeared to be an old stocking, and concealed in one of the walls. There can be little doubt, from the history of Scotland in con- nexion with the date of the coins, that they had been hid as a precaution against plunder. Recent Events. — In 1819-20, memorable for a foolish rising against the government of the country, on the part of a number of delud- ed persons, especially in the West of Scotland, the top of Cathkin hill in this parish was selected as the place of rendezvous for a general assault upon Glasgow. The subjoined account of this ab- surd enterprise is extracted from the Glasgow Herald of the 10th 602 LANARKSHIRE. April I82O9 — a newspaper which, in addition to its general respec- tability and extensive circulation, has always been remarkably ac- curate in its local intelligence. ** Wednesday night last, (5tb April 1820,) was the period fixed for a simultaneous attack upon the city by the Radicals. Cathkin Braes, about five miles souths was the site chosen for their encampment. The Strathaven di- vision, between 20 and 30, with such arms as they could seize or collect, arrived there at the appointed time ; but, instead q{ the many thousands expected to be encamped, they did not meet with a single individual to welcome them ; and on that wet boisterous and dreary night, were necessitated to seek refuge in the woods. The Radicals, at last finding that they had been imposed upon by a delegate who had summoned them to the meeting, next day, be- tween one and two o'clock, left their lonely and comfortless abode, threw away their arms and dispersed. Some of them went into a house occupied by a labourer, in which there were none but women at the time, and requested a few potatoes then boilings which they fell upon like as many hungry dogs. Nothing could exceed their wretched and alarmed appearance. ^^ About a dozen of the Strathaven Radicals, who had been at Cathkin Braes, were, on their return home, apprehended by the armed tenantry of Slrathaeen parish, and carried prisoners to Ha- milton, where they underwent an examination before the Sheriff. Nearly a dozen of Radicals, armed with pikes and pistols, visited two public-houses in New Cathcart, about twelve o'clock on Tuesday night, on a search for arms, but they did not find any. There was scarcely a village, however small, within twenty miles round, in which the Radical address was not posted up, and in most of them there were preparations made to obey the call expected from Glas- gow." I am happy to add to this Account, that though then, as now, there were what are called " Radical opinions," in the village of Carmunnock, yet I am not aware of preparations being here a^ any period made for deeds of violence. III. — Population. There has been a gradual increase in the population of the P*' rish, as will be seen by the following statement. Population in 1755, , 471 1796, ■ 570 1821, • 637 1831, • 692 The above is the population of the parish quoad civilia, ^i CAUMUNNOCK. C03 adding the districts annexed quoad sacra^ the present population may be nearly 1000. It is deserving of notice, that, in taking up the Grovemment census in 1831, the proportion of males and fe- males was exactly equal, there being of each sex 346. Taarlj acwmngt of births for the last seven years, 22 deaths, ... 20 marriages, . . 14 Nnniber of iUcgidmate births in the parish during the last three years, 4 Prppr i eiars of Land. — There are six proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards. Charader of the P^cjpfe.— The people in general are decent in their morals ; sober, honest, and industrious ; and there is no in- Htance of any individual from the parish having been tried for a . cafiital crime. In bearing this general testimony, it is not to be eocpected that we are free from the injurious influence of public- houses, the fruitful source of vice and misery throughout Scotland. I may add, however, that in few parishes is there a more general regard paid to divine ordinances, or a greater proportion of serious and devout individuals* The beneficial effects of what is usually called the ^' Cambuslang Work,'' 1742, no doubt partially extend- ed to this and other neighbouring parishes, and it is a place that, tor nearly 150 years, has never wanted a Gospel ministry. The peq[>le have been much distinguished also for warm affection and respectful kindness towards their pastors. It is said that the prac- tice of family worship was at one time kept up in every household. Though the good habit is still prevalent, I am sorry I cannot give the parish so enviable a distinction at the present day. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish contains about 2810 acres Scotch. Of these, 2400 are arable, and under a regular system of cultiva- tion. 250 are under wood, almost all of which has been planted, and about 106 are constantly in pasture. The remainder are oc- cupied with roads, &c. During the time of the present proprie- tor of Cathkin, there were in one square on the hills above 20 acres <^ waste land ; besides 6 or 7 acres of moss in such a state as to lender it dangerous to pass over them. The whole of these have now been brought in, and the aCres that were previously moss are now considered the best ground belonging to the farm in which they are situated. They require less manure than any other part of the fiirm, and are particularly adapted for carrots, turnips, and potatoes. There is no undivided common in the parish. Bent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is from 604 LANARKSHIRE. L. 1, lOs. to L. 1, I5s. per acre Scotch, but some parts are let at nearly L. 3. The gross rental of the parish has been much more than doubled within the last forty years, and may now be reckoned at L. 4200. Wages. — The wages of r^^ular farm servants may be stated as follows : Males, from L. 7 to L. 10 per half year, with bed, board, and washing ; females, from L. 2 to L. 5, according to their fit- ness for work. The rate of wages for day-labourers is 28. per day in sunimer, and in winter Is. 8d., without victuals. Live-stock. — The number of milch cows in the parish may amount to 350. They are all of the Ayrshire breed, and the far- mers generally rear a few young cattle yearly. The fiutn-borses are of the Clydesdale breed, and are for the most part first rate animals, and kept in excellent condition. Of these, there are from two to six on each farm, according to its extent. Husbandry. — In few places has there been a more rapid im- provement in husbandry, and so well is the greater part of the land cultivated, that, notwithstanding the elevation of the parish, and some natural disadvantages of soil, we have excellent crops of all sorts. Improvements are still progressing, particularly in the way of draining, which is carried on in many of the farms to the extent of from 1500 to 3000 falls annually. Furrow-draining is most approved of, and tiles have been much used for the purpose within the last few years. Each farm is divided into fields pro- portionable to its size, and intersected with roads convenient for the carting of manure, and the removal of the crops. The fences are for the most part of thorn, but occasionally with a mixture of beech. They have been much better attended to of late years, and, along with the quantity of young thriving wood, and the na- tural diversity of hill and dale, give a richness and beauty to the general aspect of the parish to which, thirty years ago, it was a stranger. The general rotation of crops is, 1. oats ; 2. green- crop, with a portion of the field in summer fallow; 3. wheat; 4. hay ; and then three years pasture. The cropping is so ma- naged as to make the pasture always extend to fully one-third of the farm, the produce of the dairy forming a great proportion of the income of the farmer, without which it would be impossible for him to make good his rent. Since green cropping became ge- neral, many of the farmers make a point of having several of their cows yielding milk during winter, in order to increase their sup- ply of manure. Notwithstanding this, a considerable quantity of CARMUNNOCK. 605 the manure used in the parish is brought annually from Glasgow, at a Yery great expense. The average size of the farms is 115 acres Scotch. Leases. — The general length of leases is nineteen years. Farm-^Hausee. — Some of the farm-houses are very superior, and, with few exceptions, they are all in good condition, having been lately either wholly rebuilt, or put into complete repair. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication^ S^c. — The nearest market-town is Rutherglen, which is about three miles and a half distant. There are seven fairs in this town annually, and several of these are fre- quented by our farmers for the sale and purchase of horses and cows. The chief market resort, however, for the above purposes, and the place also where the farm produce of all kinds is mostly disposed of, is Glasgow. The village of Carmunnock containing a population of 400 souls, is the only village in the parish quoad dvUia. The village of Busby, formerly alluded to as in part an- nexed, quoad sacroy is distant from Carmunnock about one mile and a quarter, and has recently been privileged with a penny-post from Glasgow, which has proved a great convenience to the sur- rounding district In the village of Carmunnock, there are 3 grocers, two of whom are also publicans. Besides these, there are 2 other public-houses, 2 wrights, 1 tailor, 1 smith and farrier, 2 carriers, and about 1 5 day-labourers. The remaining population of the village is chiefly composed of hand-loom weavers. In the country part of the parish, (which is otherwise wholly agricultural,) there are 1 wright, 1 smith and farrier, and 1 miller. There is only one turnpike road within the whole parochial dis- trict, extending to about three miles and a-half, and without any public coach. The Glasgow and Muirkirk road, however, passes along the eastern boundary of the parish, and is travelled by a coach from Strathaven three times a week. The parish roads are, generally speaking, in good order. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is in the middle of the village, and very conveniently situated for the parishioners. It was built in 1767, and underwent considerable repairs last year. It is upon the whole neat and comfortable, when compared with most country parish churches of the date of its erection, and may accommodate from 450 to 500. There is no Dissenting meeting-house in the parish, and there are very few Dissenters, except in the village of Carmunnock. These, too, are for the most part persons who, at a 606 LANARKSHIRE. time of political excitement, and the agitation of the question about the lawfulness of National Religious Establishments, have only re- cently gone to the meetingrbouse of a Dissenting minister of to- luntary principles in the neighbourhood. The number of conunu- nicants belonging to the Established Church is from 240 to 260. The church is well attended.* Number of fiunilies in the pariah attending the EatablUhed Cburoh :— Id the pariah ^uoad civUkt^ - 101 Do. quoad taera^ - 21 122 Number of fiunilies Dissenting or Seceding :— In the pariah quoad cMHm^ - 98 Do. quoad sacra, - 18 56 Stipend^ Manse^ Sfc — Carmunnock is one of the small lifiogt of the Church of Scotland. The stipend by a decreet of modifi- cation, of date 28th June 1797, consists of 94 bolls, 1 peck, 2} lippies of meal, 23 bolls, 2 firlots, 3 pecks, 1^ lippy of bear, and in money L. 15, 6s. 4^d. To the above, there is now added by the Exchequer, for raising the stipend to an average of L. 150 per annum, the sum of L.39, 10s. 10d« The heritors have lately built a very elegant and substantial manse, and the offices, wfaicb stand in need of some slight repairs, are immediately to be attend- ed to. The glebe is scarcely 5 acres in extent, but of an excel- lent soil. EducatioTL — The only school in the parish is the parochial one, where instruction is given in all the usual branches. The school- master has the maximum salary, and the school-fees average L. 40 per annum. Till within these few years, the schoolmaster had neither house nor garden, but received an annual sum in lieu of them. The heritors, however, lately purchased a piece of ground for him, and erected both an excellent school-hou^e and dwelling' • Sttcceaaion ofMinuten in Carmunnock.^^Mr Andrew Hamilton, vicar 1586 ; M^ James Hamilton, reader and vicar 1586 ; Mr Archibald Glen, from Rutherglen. •»' mitted 27th AprU 1603 ; Mr Robert Glen, 2dd August 1614; Mr James Mowbrae* 27th November 1622, and removed by the Archbishop in 1633 ; Mr James Hutch^* son, from Houston, admitted 7th December 1633, and deposed 1639 ; Mr Mattbe'^ M*KaiII, admitted 17th May 1640, and went to Bothwell 1649 ; Mr Andrew M/^" ton (Morton) admitted 8th May 1650, turned out at the Restoration, and reinstated ^^ the Revolution, died July 1691 ; Mr Robert Boyd, during the deposition of Mfrtf>*^» 18th January 1665; Mr Andrew Tait, admitted 22d March 1695 ; Mr John K ful; but in summer, the price was scarcely one-half; for then a horse could carry from three to four loads in a cart 3 CAMBUSNETHAN. 611 Saodstone of excellent quality is also found in various places. This parish, in short, wants only some means of communication, with an arailable market, to render it one of the most valuable in Scotland* Two tile-works, on an extensive scale, are at present in active operation upon the estate of Wishaw, and one on that of Coltness. The clay is of excellent quality, and generally ten feet in thick- ness. The shelves in one of the works are capable of containing upwards of 29,000 undried tiles, and the stoves dry about 21,000 tiles at once. Both roof-tiles and draining tiles are manufactured here in great perfection. There are three sets of draining tiles. The middle-sized are sold at about L. 1, 10s. per 1000. The Shotts Iron- Works, at the east end of this parish, have two blast furnaces constantly employed. In consequence of these works, the population has increased about 2000 ; and nearly one- third of that population resides in this parish, at the ancient village of Stane, which is separated from the parish of Shotts by the river Calder. Here is the principal coal-6eld ; and here the Shotts Iron Com- pany have planted thirty acres of fiorin grass, which has, for these twenty years, been very productive. Mr Baird, who superintends the works, assured me that 3000 stones of grass, amounting to up- wards of 500 stones of hay, have often been raised from one acre. It cost L.15 per acre to prepare it for the fiorin grass, and, pre- vious to that preparation, the ground was worth nothing. The soil throughout this parish is generally clay, upon a bottom of an older formation, here usually termed till. The clay is in some places so strong, that it is wrought at a great expense both of labour and cattle ; in other places, however, it is more friable, and in some ve^ fertile. The haughs are mostly of transported soil, and bear evident marks of having formed, at some remote period, the bottoms of lakes. In the higher parts of the parish, the soil is generally in- termixed vrith gravel and black sand, which renders it rather un- lavourable for cultivation. There is, however, much good land in the parish, and grain of all sorts is raised in great perfection. Zoologff. — The deep ravines and craggy precipices about Garrion Gill and the banks of South Calder, }iave been long the favourite retreats of the fox and otter. The badger, though formerly very common, is beginning to be a rare animal, and the squirrel, formerly unknown, is establishing itself throughout the whole of this district The haughs on the 612 LANARKSHIRE.- Clyde are famous for the number and quality of their hares. Other game is abundant ; but woodcocks are beginning to be scarce. . The Clyde contains about twelve species of 6shes, of which the salmon is the principal. This fish, long scarce, has of late begun to reappear ; and during the last few seasons, it was particularly abundant This may, in some measure, be owing to the generally swollen state of the river, which permits them to overcome the serious obstacles they have to encounter at Blantyre Cotton Mills. Botany.— This parish presents a great variety of soil and sur- face, and is therefore highly favourable for the growth of various plants. A very complete and accurate list of these has been pub- lished in a " Popular Description of the Indigenous Plants of Lanarkshire, by the Rev. William Patrick." The following may be given as a specimen of a few of the rarer and more interesting sorts, viz : — , . Scbcenus albus Hleracium sylvaticuin Eriophorium vaginatum Habenaria trifoUa Poaaquatica Listem Nidus- Avis Melica uniflora ovaU Symphytum tuberosum Nasturtium amara Soianum dulcamata Scolopendrium vulgare 'Erythrsea Veronica montana Polygonum bistorta Asplenium Trichomanes Chrysosplenium alternifolium Doronicum Pardaliancbes Stellaria nemorum 11. — Civil History. According to the Wishaw manuscript, " The barony of Cam- busnethan belonged of old to a family of the name of Baird; after whose forefaulture, it fell into the hands of Sir Alexander De Stewart From tl\e Stewarts it passed into the hands of the Som- mervilles, who were the proprietors for many ages. The first of tfiis name who was Laird of Cambusnethan, was Sir John Sommer- ville; who married the heiress of Cambusnethan in 1372; suc- ceeded his father in 1380, and died in 1405. He was buried in the choir of Cambusnethan church, beside* his wife, and was the first of the name who was buried there. This ancient and valuable barony remained in the hands of the Sommervilles for six genera- tions ; during which period, much of it was disponed to other heri- tors; particularly, the lands of Crindledyke and Branchellbum,totbe Laird of Lauchope ; the lauds of Coltness, Wishaw, Watstein and Stain, were purchased by Hamilton of Uddsten, the predecessor of Lord Belhaven ; Greenhead was purchased by John Robertson, and Overtown and Father, became the property, first of Lord Bel- 4 CAMBCSNETHAN. C 13 • haven, and latterly of Sir David Stewart of Coltuess. About the year 1 649, the house and mains of the barony of Cambusnethan were disponed to James Sommcrville of Drum, and by him in 1661, to Sir John Harper, Advocate, who rebuilt the mansion house of Cambusnethan. He sold the superiority of the Mains of Coltness, and also the temple lands of Goukthrople to Sir Thomas Stewart of Coltness. ** Upon the death of Sir John Harper, the lands of Cambus* netban were sold to the Lockharts of Castlehill," The barony of Cambusnethan now goes to the second son of the Sinclairs of Ste- venson and Murcle ; but the proprietor is always to assume the name of Lockhart. The estate of Cambusnethan was left by the firstpurchaser of the name of Lockhart to his sister, Martha, spouse of Sir John Sinclair of Stevenston. It was incorporated into a free barony, called the Barony of Cambusnethan, in favour of James Lockhart of Castlehill, by a charter under the Great Seal, dated 26th July 1695. In the year 1764, these lands came into the possession of Captain James Lockhart, second son of Sir Ro- bert Sinclair of Stevenston, Bart, who succeeded his uncle, George Lockhart, Esq. of Castlehill, one of the Senators of the College of Justice. The superiorities, &c. of the estates in the parish of Stonehouse, which formerly belonged to Martha Lockhart, were al- so formed into a barony by a charter under the Great Seal, called the Barony of Castlehill ; which is the title that the family of Cam- busnethan still retains. Chalmers says, that the church of Cambusnethan, with its tithes and other rights, was granted to the monks of Kelso, dur- ing the twelfth century, by William Finemund, the Lord of the Manor; and it was confirmed to them by Malcolm IV., and by Willjam the Lion. From Radulph de Cler, who seems to have succeeded Finemund, as Lord of the Manor, the monks of Kelso obtiuned a confirmation of the church of Cambusnethan ; and he granted to them, and to the said church, the tithe of all the multure, and his produce of the mills of Cambusnethan ; and a right of priority in grinding their corns at the said mill ; in return for which, the monks granted him a license to have a private cha- pel within his manor house. (CharL Kelso, No. 278.) The monks also obtained confirmation of this church from Walter, Bishop of Glasgow, in 1232. Before the end of the thirteenth century, the church of Cambusnethan, with its tithes aiid other property, was transferred from the monks of Kelso to LANARK. R r 614 LANARKSHIRE. the Bishop of Glasgow. And it continued to belong to the Pre- I ^ lates of that see, as a mensal church, till the Reformation ; and I ^ in after times, while Episcopacy continued to exist, the cure was served by a vicar. At the Reformation, Sir James Hamilton had a lease from the Archbishop of Glasgow, of the parsonage tithes of CambosDetbaD for a small rent. After the Reformation, the tithes and the pa- tronage of the church followed the fate of the spiritual property aC the Archbishop of Glasgow. In Acta Parliamcntorum, v. 598, there is a ratification in &voi^^ of the Duke of Lennox of the church lands of Cambusnethai ^ ■ And in 1696, there is also a ratification in favour of Anne of Hamilton, of the whole rectory and vicarage tithes of the rish church of Cambusnethan, to be held in blench-fann for th payment of one penny Scots yearly, and also paying the ministu- '^^ of that parish the yearly stipend, as modified, from the parochia^^*^ tithes. The patronage of the church was afterwards granted to the pi prietor of the barony of Cambusnethan ; and it now belongs Robert Lockhart, Esq. of Castlehill, who holds that barony. At or within the manor house of Cambusnethan, was a chape! dedicated to St Michael, to which certain lands in the vicinit^^-J were mortified. The old church of Cambusnethan stood in a most romantic spo ^"^^ at the south-west point of the whole parish, very near the river ^^' Clyde. It had certainly been built there for the accommodadoi^*- ^^ of the Baron of Cambusnethan, so near his mansion house, anc:^^ •^ probably at his sole expense, there being no other heritor in th^^ ^® parish then but himself. The date of its erection is unknown ^ ' but it was long before the barony was separated, and long Thomas Lord Somerville gave to Lord Yester his first interest i; the parish. It had a choir, and from the remains of it still vi — sible, must have been a much more magnificent structure than th present one. It was, however, inconveniently situated for the pa-^ rish at large, many of the parishioners, particularly those beyonfc^ Redmyre, having to travel from six to twelve miles to attend it. This church having stood nearly two centuries, was, afler an in-' spection in presence, and by appointment of the presbytery of Ha^ — milton, declared, 17th March 1837, by two respectable architec upon oath, to be in a ruinous and dangerous condition ; and th minister was, by order of the presbytery, prohibited from preach CAMBUSNETHAN. 615 ing ID it. A new church was ordered to be built, capable of con- taining 1000 sitters, the minister and the great bocly of the pa- rishioners expressing their wish that it should be built to accom- modate the l^al number of the population of the parish, which contains 4000 inhabitants. The church, however, it was agreed, should be built for only 800 ; the Church Extension Committee promising to build a chapel between the parish church and the manse, to contain an equal number. Although two years have elapsed, neither church nor chapel has yet been begun; and the condemned church has, with the sanction of the presbytery, been again opened for public worship.* The church, after being seated in every comer, contained only 660 sitters. It was cold, damp, and uncomfortable. From these and other circumstances, the people were forced to become Dis- senters, and built a house for themselves at Wishaw Town, in con- nexion with the Relief body. There, there is also a house in connexion with the Reformed Presbyterian Church, or the Cameronians ; and as this parish was a very ancient seat of Secession, a house in connexion with the Burghers, now with the United Associate Synod, was built near- ly a century ago at Davies-dykes, which has of late been trans- ferred to Bonkle, a small and romantic hamlet on the Allanton estate. Modem Buildinffs.'^The principal seats in this parish besides Cambusnethan House, are those of Wishaw, Coltness, Allanton, and Muirhouse. About twenty years ago, a very elegant struc- ture was erected at Cambusnethan, under the inspection of that celebrated architect, Mr Gillespie Graham, on the site of the for- mer, which had been consumed by an accidental fire. This build- ing is in the Gothic style of architecture, and is a very chaste and perfect representation of a priory. It is placed in a most ro- mantic situation, and is an object well fitted to attract the admi- ration of every traveller. The present proprietor has added much to the beauty of the place, and to the extent of the orchards. He has upwards of 25 acres planted with apple, pear, and plum trees of the best descrip- * It it tmt justice to the heritors to mention, that since I gave in my Statistical Report in March last, a new puish church has been begun in June, very near the Bte of the present one, This site has been selected with good taste, as it is dry and commanding, and not far horn the centre of the population. The church is a neat, plun ttnicture, in the Gothic style, built of an excellent white fireestone, which is abundant in many parts of the parish. 616 LANAUKSHlUli:. tions ; and owing to the natural fertility of the soil, and the warm and sheltered situation, his is the most productive orchard upon Clyde. The fruit was sold in 1828 for L.402; 1829, L.371; 1830, L. 231; 1831, L.3i7; 1832, L. 60 ; 1833, L.485; 1834, L. 180 ; 1835, L. 350, being at the average of L. 300 per aonum. And before the Glasgow market was so glutted with fruit of an inferior description, by the facility of steam navigation, this or- chard, when it had not arrived at its present state of maturity, has some years brought the sum of L. 1 000. There are in the parish upwards of 160 acres in orcb ground. It is, however, less productive now than formerly ; am the spirit of planting orchards is at present on the decline, cyder press, however, has been lately established, and, if proper- ly conducted, may tend to cause a reaction. In 1827, upwards of L. 2300 was received for the orchards in this parish, besid< L. 400 for gooseberries and currants. Wishaw House, the seat of Lord Belhaven and Stenton, is si" tuated on the River Calder, at the north-west comer of the pa — • -*" rish. This mansion has been recently enlarged and beautifi^ — ' -*" ed under the direction of Mr Gillespie Graham. The style ot ^^^^ architecture is the castellated ; and the whole is a very successfuF ^^* alteration of an ancient building. The front has an extremelj^Cl handsome appearance, the outline being much varied by the dif — ferent heights and projections of the towers and embattled walls*^^^ ^ The apartments are suitable to the extent of the house, and som^^ ^® of them are particularly worthy of examination for their beautj^ ^J and proportions. There are several excellent family portraits pre— "^=^ served at Wishaw House ; one of Sir James Balfour, Lord Lyon, ^r"^"' King of arms in the reign of Charles I. by Vandyke, is reckoned^ "^ a very valuable painting. There is also a picture of John, Lorfc^^*" Belhaven, who, in the reign of Queen Anne, made so strenuou: ^--^ "^ an opposition to the treaty of Union. Family of Belhaven. — The territorial possessions of this family t- -■*? in the county of Lanark are very ancient. The peerage of Bel^^^^'" haven and Stenton was conferred on Sir John Hamilton of Bie -^^^^'j in the county of Haddington, by Charles I. in 1647. The patear^^"^ was surrendered to Charles II. in 1695, and regranted by his M- ZMBa" jesty with farther remainders. The father of the present Lord Belhaven succeeded to t CAMBUSNETHAN. 617 title in 1799, by a decree of the House of Lords. He died at bis seat 20tb October 1814. By Penelope, daughter of Ranald Macdonald, Esq. of Clanro- nald, he left Robert Montgomery Hamilton, eighth Lord Bel- haven, bom in 1793. He married in 1816 Hamilton, daughter of Walter Campbell, Esq. of Shawfield, maternally descended from the family of Belhaven. Grarrion, a most romantic spot, at the south*east corner of the parish, opposite the House of Dalserf, and imn^ediately adjoining the parish of Carluke, is also the property of Lord Belhaven. Here the river Clyde takes a most beautiful bend ; completely en- circling the house and lands of Garrion on two sides. From this is seen to great advantage the picturesque scenery about Maulds- lie Castle, the rich and highly cultivated haughs of Cambusnethan, studded with magnificent trees ; also the church and village of * Dalserf with Milbume, surrounded by orchards, and presenting a most enchanting view, particularly at the season when the fruit trees are in blossom. There was an ancestor of .Lord Belhaven, a Mrs Anne Hamil- ton, daughter of Robert Hamilton, younger of Wishaw, who, pre- viously to the year 1730, gave and bequeathed the sum of L. 600 Scots money, for the use and behoof of the indigent widows and children of such Presbyterian ministers within the presbytery of Hamilton, as should join and contribute money for the same ends and uses ; and committed the administration thereof to the mi- nisters of said presbytery, who should thereafter contribute for the said purposes. This sum, having received several additions, par- ticularly one from the celebratejd Dr Matthew Baillie, one of the physicians of George III., whose fatherhad been minister of Shotts, and afterwards'of Hamilton, now amounts to about L. 2000 Ster- ling, from which each of the widows of the ministers of Hamilton Presbytery receives an annuity of L. 20 Sterling. Family of Stewart ofColtness. — The Coltness estate belonged .to Sir James Stewart Denham of Coltness and Westshields, now in his pinety-fifth year. Sir James, many years ago, added a new front to the house of Coltness ; and it is now a very elegant and commodious building. The dining-room and drawing-room are large and well-proportioned ; and between them runs a gallery, hung round with ancient portraits of the family ; and the extreme distance of the 'dining-room and drawing-room along this gallery is nearly 200 feet. The second son of James Stewart of Allan- 618 LANAUKSHIRE. ton became tbe first Sir James Stewart of Coltness and Kirkfield, He was born in 1608, and, being a.banker in Edinburgh, he ac- quired a large fortune. In 1653, he purchased the lands of West Carbarns or Kirkfield, from Sir John Somerville of CambusnethaD, and soon after, the estate of Coltness, from Sir John BEamiltoo of Udston. It had been sold as early as 1553 by the Somenrillesof Cam- busnethan, to Sir Robert Logan of Restalrig. In 1649, he was electa ed Lord Provost of Edinburgh ; and, being a zealous Covenanter,, he was, in the following year, chosen, together with tbe Marquis o Argyle and the Earl of Eglinton, on the part of the Scotch, hold the conference with Oliver Cromwell in Bumtsfield Links In 1659, he was again elected Lord Provost; but, on account his Whig principles, dismissed at the Restoration, and sent prisonei first to Edinburgh Castle, and then to Dundee, and fined in L^ 1 Sterling. A length in 1670 he obtained a pardon. The excellent Bishop Leighton was brought up in Edinburgi under Sir James Stewart's care ; and the undaunted Hugh M^Kail who was so inhumanly tortured by order of the privy-council, an* afterwards executed in 1666, had been chaplain in his family.* Mr Hugh M'Kail, who was tutor in the family of Sir Stewart of Coltness and Goodtrees, in a sermon which be preach ed in the great Church of Edinburgh, showed that it was no ne thing for the church to suffer persecution. He said, ^* A on the throne, a Haman in the state, and a Judas in the church, had been instrumental in that work in former times ;" and Sharpe and Lauderdale, thinking their portraits had been very accurately taken, were galled to the heart ; and for this a troop of Dragooi surrounded the house of Sir James Stewart, and apprehended M M^Kail. Sir James Stewart, son of him before named, was bom in 1635, and married Agnes, daughter of the Rev. Robert Traill, minister Among many particulars which I found recorded in " the Coltness manuscripts,** I shaU transcribe the following : ** Sir James Stewart, who bad been twice first magistrate of Edinburgh, when near- ly seventy-three years of age, after his last visit to Coltness, when going to Edinburgh, accompanied by some of the most respectable in the land ; at Muiryett, about two miles from Allanton, there is a rising ground which draws an extensive prospects there he stopt, and having turned his horse, he looked around upon a scenery that he was convinced he should behold no more, and exclaimed, while tears of gratitude flowed down his venerable cheeks, " Westshiel, and Lanark, and Carnwath Church, my early home, my ^vourite haunts, farewell ; Coltness and Allanton, and Cambus* nethan Church, my later sweet abodes, fitrewell. Ye witnesses of my best spent hours, and of my most ardent devotions, a last farewell. It is long since I bade the vanities of this world adieu.** May piety so exalted distinguish all, who frequent these places of worship, and who inhabit these abodes ! CAMBUSNETHAN. 619 of Edinburgh* He was bred to the Bar, and was one of the most eminent lawyers of his time. He died in 1713, in the office of Lord Advocate, and was succeeded hy his son, the third Sir James Stewart of Goodtrees and Coltness. He was born in 1681, and married Anne, daughter of Sir Hugh Dalrymple of North Ber- wick, Lord President of the Court of Session. He was an Advo- cate, and became Solicitor- General for Scotland. His daughter, Margaret, bom in 1715, married Thomas Cal- derwood of Poltown, whose eldest daughter, Anne, married James Durham of liargo, father of the present Greneral; and of the Admiral Sir Philip Durham, K. C. B. Agnes, born in 1717, married David, Earl of Buchan, father to Dand, the late Earl, Henry Erskine of Ammondelie, and Thomas Lord Erskine, Lord Chancellor; and Marion, born in 1723, mar- ried Alexander Murray of Cringletie, father of James Wolfe Mur- ray, late Lord Cringletie. Sir James died in 1727, and was succeeded by his son, born in 1719^ who married Frances Wemyss, eldest daughter of David, Eari of Wemyss. He, too, was bred to the Bar, and early dis- played superior abilities and commanding eloquence. In the Re- bellion 1745, he was believed to have been Prince Charles's con- fidential agent at the court of France. He resided there for eighteen years. In 1 763, he was allowed to return to Scotland ; and eight years after, a formal pardon was procured for him. He died 1780, and was succeeded by his only son, Sir James Stewart of Coltness and Westshiel. He married Alicia, daughter of Blacker of Carrick, in Ireland. He is a General in the army, and represented the county of Lanark in three successive Parlia- ments.* The estate is now in the possession of Thomas Houldsworth, Esq., M. P. for Nottingham, who is erecting extensive iron works at New Mains, and setting a pattern to his tenantry, by draining his estate in the very best manner. Family of Stewart ofAUanton. — The lands of Allan ton belong- ed of old to the abbey of Aberbrothic, and have for centuries been in the possession of a very ancient branch of the Darnley Stewarts. ** Allan Stewart of Daldowie," (Crawford's Description of Ren- frewshire, p. 469,) " early attached himself to the house of Doug- las, under the celebrated Sir James, commonly called * Black Douglas,' and married into that family. From his bravery in head- • Sir James Stewart died since this account was drawn up. 620 LANARKSmUK. ing a party which stormed the Castle of Alnwick in Northumber- landshire, he obtained the sirname of * Alnwickster.' " In 1385, (according to the traditional accounts of the family) | d when Scotland was invaded by King Richard II., Allan, though past sixty, commanded a chosen body of men, consisting of his te- nants, at Daldowie, and others levied in the neighbourhood of Rutherglen, and was marching to join the army then assembled on the borders, under the Earl of Douglas, when he encountered^ at a place called Morningside, in the Moor of Macmoreen, a de- tachment of English horse, which, on account of foraging and pluo — der, was scouring the country. After a severe conflict, the enem^^ was routed ; but he himself was killed in the action. His remaiim ^ were deposited in the chapel of Beuskiag, close by Momingsid a religious house, dependent on the abbey of Aberbrothic, th< Abbot of which was lord of the district." Sir Walter Stewart of Allanton was born in 1606, and marri< Margaret, daughter of Sir James Hamilton of Broomhill, and siste ^^ to the first Lord Belhaven, and to James Hamilton, minister Cambusnethan, and afterwards Bishop of Galloway. — ^^ It is corded that Oliver Cromwell, in 1650, after the^battle of Dunbar-""^* in his progress through Lanarkshire, halted with a few attendant: — ^^ at Allanton House, where he was hospitably entertained by Lad;^ -*? Stewart, and where he passed the night. Sir Walter, being ^ * Royalist, took care to be out of the way. On the Protector's ar- — *"" rival, it is said, some choice Canary and other refreshments, wer^»^ ^ presented, but he would suffer nothing to be touched, until he him -^'^* self had first said grace, which he fervently did, for more thac^— ^° half an hour, to the great edification of the lady. He then cour--"^^ ^" teously inquired after Sir Walter, and on drinking the health o -*:::^o{ the family, observed that his mother's name was Stewart, and tha-^"^ ^^ he always felt a kindness for the name." James died in 1772, and was succeeded by his son. Sir Henrjr^** Stewart, Bart of Allanton, LL. D., F. R. S., &c, author of '^ ' '^ Translation of Sallust, 2 vols, quarto, and an Essay on the bes ^^s ^^^^ mode of Transplanting Trees," in which art he was very successful i ^-^}' By adorning his estate with an uncommon degree of skill and assi i ^=^'^ duity, he conferred no slight benefit on a considerable district ot^<^^^( this parish. He made a splendid addition to the old Castle ofc^-^^^^ Allanton, under the direction of Mr Gillespie Graham, and beau — ^' tified an extensive park which surrounds it. He formed a mosf^ ^^ picturesque lake in front of his house, of very considerable mao-ni- i CAMBUSNETIIAN. ^ 621 a tilde, studded with islands, clothed with wood, and from no one point of which can its extent be seen. Sir Henry was an elegant scholar, and an accomplished gentleman. He was born in 1 759, and married in 1787, Lillias, daughter of Hugh Seton of Touch. He died in March 1836. Elizabeth, his only daughter, bom in 1789, married Reginald Macdonald of Staffa, third son of Colin Macdonald of Boisdale, but the eldest by his second marriage. He was Sheriff of Stirling- shire, and died in 1333. He has left, besides the present Sir Henry James, two sons and two daughters. Muirhouse, the property of the ancient family of Dalzell, and the jointure house of that family, is situated at the western extre- mity of the parish, within half a mile of the House of Dalzell. It is an old building, on a very commanding situation. It was at one time the residence of the clergyman, when public worship was per- formed at the Old Kirk, from which it is little more than a quarter of a mile distant. Between these places runs a hedge, called Stockleton Dike, where a farmer is said to have been murdered in times of persecution.* III. — Population. Wishawtown and Stewarton, included, form the chief village in the parish; containing a population of 1700. Kirknow, around the church, contains 250. Bonkle, three miles up the parish, contains 200. And Stain, four miles further up, contains 600. The popu* lation of this parish is as follows :— In 1 755, it amouuted to 1419 1781, . 1562 1791, . 1684 1809, - 1795 1814, - 2657 1824, . a248 1899, • 4059 Number of families in the pariah, - - 765 chiefly employed in agriculture, - 118 trade, manufiictures, or handicraft, 342 * The foUoiring is the inscription on his tombstone in the old church-yard : ** Here lies Arthur Inglis in Nethertoun, who was shot at Stockleton Dyke by bloody Graham of Claverhouse, July 1679, for his adherence to the word of God snd Scotland's corenanted work of Information. Rev. 12, 11. ** When I did live, such was the day, Forsaking sin made men a prey Unto the rage and tyranny. Of that throne of iniquity. Who robbed Christ and killed his saints. And brake and burned his covenants, I at that time this honour got, To die for Christ upon thb spot. 622 LANARKSHIRE. The number of illegitimate births during the last three years, is la I am decidedly of opinion, from many years of laborious ezperi- ence, that nothing would conduce more to the moral and religious interests of this extensive population, than in&nt and juTenile schools, erected in the most populous parts of it ; as from the habits of the females, who are principally devoted to tambouring and sew- ing muslin, their maternal and domestic duties are too much ne- glected IV. — Industry. Assuming that in this parish, there are altogether 26,000 im- perial acres, I learn from the most diligent inquiries, that 10,000 of these are either cultivated, or occasionally in tillage ; that die remainder have never been cultivated; but that 10,000 more might, with a proper application of capital, be added to the culti- vated land of the parish ; and that about 6000 acres are in woodsy roads, quarries, &c« and incapable of being rendered arable- Lord Belhaven has lately erected at the west end of the village of Wishawtown, a very large and extensive distillery. Hie whole buildings are of the very best mason-work, and completely slated, and, besides, there are extensive shades for feeding cattle, annexed to it, in complete unison with the other buildings. Much has been done, within these few years, regarding draining. But as yet, the process to the tenantry is still expensive, as it re- quires 3050 tiles to drain an acre. But from the nature of the soil throughout the parish, viz. a cold wet clay, the most extensive draining is necessary to render the soil either fertile or productive. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State and Education. — The stipend of this parish is 18 chalders, half meal, half barley, at the fiars price for Lanark- shire ; together with L, 100 Scots for communion elements. There is a glebe of 4 acres, but it and the manse are two miles from the church. The number of families connected with the Establish- ed Church, is 419. There are three endowed schools in the parish. The parochial school, at which Latin, English grammar, writing, and arithmetic are taught, has attached to it the maximum salary, a free house and garden, and the usual fees, which do not exceed L. 20 a year. At Stain, a school was built and endowed with a salary of about L. 20, by Mr Wilson in Whitburn ; and at Muiryett, ground was CAMBUSNETHAN. 623 given by Sir Henry Steuart to build a school, a teacher's house, and garden, to which there is attached a small salary. There are at present altogether nine schools which the children of the parish attend, and this last season (1838), there were at one time 476 scholars at the whole, which is no less than one to every eight inhabitants. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons regularly receiving parochial aid is 50. Those who receive acci- dental charity vary according to circumstances. From L. 200 to L. 350 is annually distributed. The collections at the church- doors, amounting to about L. 45, and the sums received for mort- cloths, together with an annual collection from each of the Dis- senting houses, are the chief sources of their relief; and what is required beyond these, is made up by the heritors, according to their respective valuations. The whole valuation of the parish is Lb 5400, 10s. Scots. During the years 1832 and 1833, there was a regular assessment on the parish, and then the collections at the church dwindled into a mere trifle. The poor came forward shamelessly demanding support; and this plan was attended with so many difficulties, it was so unpopular and likely to bring such ao additional burden on the parish, that it was laid aside. The inhabitants have given a good specimen of their taste for literature, by the institution of two libraries, supported by subscrip- tion, and containing a judicious selection of books chiefly histori- cal and religious. About the centre of the parish, still called Chapel, there is said to have been an ancient place of worship. But no vestige of it now remains. And in the eastern part of it, at Darmead Linn, there are said to be the ruins of an old church " where Cameron thun- dered, and where Renwick poured the gentle notes." March 1839. PARISH OF BERTRAM SHOTTS. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYB. THE REV. WALTER L. COLVIN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — According to a tradition which seems well aothenti- cated, this parish derives its name from a robber called Bartram da Shotts, who in ancient times infested this part of the country, and was the Rob Roy of his day. He was killed not far from the si- tuation of the present church. Extent, ^c. — The figure of this parish is nearly that of an oblong square. It extends 10 miles in length, and 8 in breadth ; it varies in elevation from 200 toj850 feet above the level of the sea. It is divided from East Monkland and Torphichen on the north, by the North Calder, and from Cambusnethan on the south, by the South Calder. On the east, it is separated from Whitburn by a small bum, and on the west, from Bothwell by an old fence. In ancient tiroes Shotts formed part of the parish of Bothwell, under the designa- tion of " Bothwell-muir." Geology and Mineralogy, — The geology of the parish is of a mixed character, consisting partly of a portion of the great coal- field of Lanarkshire, where it encroaches on the calciferous de- posits of Wilsonton and Clympie on the south-east, and the trappean rocks of Shotts and Monkland to the north. Indeed, the oarishof Shotts, geologically speaking, nearly divides itself into two great groups or portions, the igneous and sedimentary rocks. The trap- pean rocks are mostly dolerite or common greenstone, and are protrud- ed in a very bold and massive group, constituting nearly the iivhoi^ of the northern half of the parish. The line of division betwe«^ the igneous and sedimentary rocks is indicated on the map ^'^ tolerable precision by the south Edinburgh and Glasgow ro^^' Some of these traps are undoubtedly protruded upwards arti^^.^ the coal measures of this extensive mineral district, while ceft^** portions are found overlapping the mineral deposits, or distin*^*^ • interstratified between them. At Shott-burn, both coal and »^^ are found below the trap, and the sandstone in contact with i^ BERTRAM SHOTTS. 625 blackened and hardened as if it had been subjected to a consider- able heat At Bogend the lowest members of the coal forma- tion have evidently been upheaved by the lava-like protrusion of the trap, which brings the Millstone-grit and its accompanying bed of coal to the sur&ce. The minerals below the trap at the Kirk of Shotts are as follows : Coal. Ironstone. Limestone. Other rocks. Ft. In. Ft. in. Ft. In. Fath. Ft. In. Dark green shale, 6 Sfaujr andstooe, 3 Light fire-clay, 5 Ironstone about, 8 Cod, 1 9 a light fire-clay. 4 Slstj paTement sandstone. 3 Light shale. 3 Coal smithy, 1 4 Shale and Faiks, 15 Hard sandstone. 4 Shale, 1 3 Smithy eoaJ, 9 Faiksand sliale^ 5 Two ironstone bands, 8 Caonel coal. 8 Sandstone and shale. , 9 Coal, 1 4 ' 9 The most interesting portion of the parish, in reference to its mineralogy, lies to the south of the Glasgow and Edinburgh road, and comprehends some of the most valuable carboniferous de- posits in this valuable mineral section of Scotland. The coals have been chiefly wrought here. The principal seams wrought are the Lady Anne, or splint coal, the Shotts Ironworks first and second coals, the Smithy coal, and the parrot or cannel ceaL The relative positions in which these coals stand to each other are as follows : From Lady Anne coal to Shotts Iron- works first coal, 40 fathoms ; to Shotts Ironworks second coal, 6 fathoms ; to Shotts Smithy coal, 9 fathoms ; to parrot coal, 4 fiithoms. The coal which ought to be found above these are the Ell, Pyotshaw, and Main coal. As the Monklandshave now become the Rome and Athens of our coal districts, there seems to be a propriety in adopting, as far as possible, their mineral phra- seology. We therefore give the same seams, though designated by different names, as follows : Names in ShotU. Names in MonUnd. fill coal. £11 coaL Pyotshaw. Pyotshav. Main coal. Main coal. Lady Anne coal. Splint coal. 1. Shotts Ironwork coal. Vertenwell coal. 2. do. do. Kiltonguc. 626 LANARKSHIRE. The smithy is an altered coal» and along with its accompanying splint seems to be the same as is found at Kirkmuirhill, in the pa- rish of Lesmahago. From the. undermost coals only being found here, it appears that the great carboniferous group is beginning to crop out, and that indue time it will gradually wear out and merge into the calciferous deposits found a little to the south-east, in the parbh of Carnwath. The distance from the limestone in most parts of the parish is, however, very great, and, if calculated from the lowest coal alone, includes a succession of 147 different strata. The succession of the strata at Curry side, near Shotts Ironworks, is as follows : 1. Shale, 2. Ironstone with nodules, d. Bituminous shale, 4. Coal,(l. ShotU Ironwork,) ! 2 5. Shale and sandstone, 6 Coal, (2. Shotts Ironwork,) or Drunigray, . 2 The following strata are also found at Benhar in this parish. Coal. Ironstone. Other rocks. Ft. In. Ft, In. Path. Ft. In. Coal. Ironstone. Other fo^s. Ft, In. Ft. In FaUi. Ft. In. 2 6 8 4 2 6 7 1. Alluvium, • 7 d 6 2. Coal, . 1 6 a Soft shale, . 4 4. Sandstone, . 4 5. Shale, . 1 6 6. Sandstone, . 6 7. Shale, . s 8. Splint coal, d 8 The Lady Anne coal, as already mentioned, is a splint coaL The first Shotts coal is known in the west end of the parish by the name of the Cleland Wee coal. It has a stratum of balls and a band of ironstone above it This is a soft coal, and, being en- tirely free of sulphur, is of excellent quality for making iron. The second coal is chiefly used for house fires. The Shotts smithy coal, from eight to nine fathoms below the Shotts second coal) is apparently only apartial deposit, butwherefound,if of goodqualityjis one of the most valuable coals in Scotland. It averages from about twenty-four to thirty inches thick, and is always best when found near to the igneous or dolerite rocks. In this condition, it is known to extend all over the glebe. It is at present wrought on the Duke of Hamilton's lands, and to the north of the glebe, in a pit about fifteen fathoms deep, in which there is an engine to lift the water, and the coals to the surface. This, like the Shotts first coal, is wrought by room and ranee. 4 BERTRAM SHOTTS. 62T The only iroDstone wrought in the parish has been a few indif- ferent strata of ball and band above the Shotts first coal. The balls may be considered rich, producing about thirty-five per cent of iron from the raw stone ; but the band is very poor, and produces about twenty per cent. There is abundance of fire-clay all over the south side of the parish) which has now become of great importance from the num- ber of blast furnaces in the neighbourhood. The pavement of all the coal-fields is of fire-clay, but the best is considered to be that found below the Shotts first coal, which is easily wrought, and ▼ery abundant Another very good stratum, lying about ten fathoms above the Shotts first coal, has also been wrought for a period of years, and used in making brick for blast and air furnaces. It is several feet in thickness, but there are only about three feet of it wrought in the middle of the stratum. Zoology. — There are few woods or plantations of any very great extent in the parish, and of course, the Mammalia fera^ birds, and other animals which delight in such localities are rather scarce. Among quadrupeds we have, by our ditches and lakes, the Sorex fbdiens or water-shrew, and the Arvicola aquatica or water vole. The Mmtela Erminea attains a great size in this parish, is some- times entirely white, and is said to be destructive to young hares. It is also very fond of eggs, pigeons, rats, mice, and putrid meat. Among the birds, the Lagopus Scoticus and Tetrao Tetrix, are common in the moors. The Falco Tinunculus^ Buteo nims and aruginosus are the most common of the hawk species. The Ca- primulgus Europeus is common about Murdostown. The Ardea dnerea often visits us from Hamilton, Gartshore, and other places, and the stately Numenius arquata often whistles about our ears in the high and barren parts of the country. The Scolopax gallinago affords excellent shooting in some quarters, and also the gallinulaj which is pretty common. The Vanellus cristattis affords excellent eating, and if it were better known would be preferred to some species of game. Of the reptile kind, the most common are Lacerta agilisj Fi- pera eommunisj Triton palustrisj aquaticus and vulgaris^ Rana tem^ parariaf and Bvfo vulgaris. In the Lily-loch, besides the common trout, the Salmo salvelinus or red char is found in great perfection ; also Esox Lucius ; and in the reservoir, the Percaftuviatilis is so abundant that the trout and other fishes present a lean and starved appearance from want of food. G28 LANARKSHIRE. Of molluscous, radiated, and zoophytic animals, there are many varieties, but these, like the Cryptogamise of the vegetable king- dom, are too minute in their physical organization and distinctive characters ever to become a very popular branch of natural science. Botany. — There are many interesting plants in this parish, of which our present limits will only afford a very imperfect notice. The Chora vulgaris is found in stagnant ditches, and also the Gs- litrichevema and autumnalis. The Veronica anagalisis found in ditches near Newhouse. Many species of Carices are found in the moors, some of them scarce ; also a great variety of the Orchidea. 11. — Civil History. The only historical event worthy of being recorded connected with this parish is the great revival of religion which took place in the year 1630, in consequence of a sermon preached by the Rev. Mr Livingstone. His discourse was delivered upon the Mon- day after the dispensation of the sacrament, which was the first time that a meeting for divine service was held upon that day. No fewer than 500 persons are stated to have been savingly impressed on that occasion. The parish of Shotts appears to have contributed its quota of fighting men to the fatal field of Both well Bridge in 1679, as the banner which was borne by them on that occasion may still be seen at the farm of Nethertown, in excellent preservation, bearing the well known motto, " For Scotland's covenanted work of reforma- tion." In the church-yard are interred the ashes of one of these right-hearted men of other days. Upon his gravestone the fol- lowing lines are inscribed, — " Here lyes the bones of William Smith, who lived in Moremellen, who with others appeared inarms at Pentland hills in defence of Scotland's covenanted work of re- formation in anno 1666 ; agreeable to the word of God, in oppo- sition to Popery, Prelacy and Perjury, and was murdered on his return home near this place." Eminent Men. — Three celebrated persons were born in the p^' rish, viz. Mr Gavin Hamilton of Murdoston, the famous histori- cal painter ; Mr John Miller, who was Professor of Law io ^^ University of Glasgow, well known to the world by his lea^*^^ publications ; and Dr Matthew Baillie, the distinguished anata^2!j and physician. He was the son of the Rev. James Baillie, E^- ^* minister of Shotts, and brother of Miss Joanna Baillie, the tal^^^' ed authoress. Dr Cullen began his practice as a medical man in this pj»^^* BERTRAM SHOTTS. 62d- In speaking of the climate of Shotts, he was wont to say — not itt irony — ^that it was the Montpelier of Scotland. Parochial Registers. — The earliest entry in the parochial regis* ters bears date 1 64 1. These registers do not appear to have been regularly kept until the year 1785. Land^aumers. — The principal land-owners in the parish are. His Grace the Duke of Hamilton ; Sir Thomas Inglis Cochrane of Murdoston, M. P. ; the Right Honourable Dowager Lady Torphichen ; and Robert Carrick Buchanan, Esq. of Drumpellier. HI. — Population. The population of Shotts, according to a census taken by my- self two years ago, amounts to 3750 souls. In 1755, the number was 2322, thus showing a very considerable increase, which is mainly attributable to the establishment of the iron-works in the south-east quarter of the parish. Of the population, 1270 are resident in villages ; the remainder live in the country, and are ?ery much scattered. The yearly average of marriages for the last seven years is 47. I cannot speak with the same degree of accuracy as to the average of births and deaths in the parish during that period, in conse- quence of the want of proper registers. Number of fiimiUet in the parish in 1831, - - - . 621 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 246 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 345 Number of illegitimate births in the parish during the last three years, about 20 There are 34 proprietors of land of the yearly value of L 50 and upwards ; and it is much to be regretted that so very few of them reside in the parish. There are at an average 3 children in each femily. There are 12 fatuous and 2 blind persons in the parish. With regard to the general character of the people, I am happy in having it in my power to state that they are intelligent, moral, and religious. They are more than usually ac- tive and industrious ; and although the husbandmen have been very ioadequately repaid for their labours by the crops of the last three years, yet I have rarely heard a murmur or complaint. Smuggling at one time prevailed to a very considerable extent in the parish, but is now altogether unknown amongst us. IV. — Industey. Agriculture. — The total number of imperial acres in the parish is about 32,000. From one-half to two-thirds of the lands in the parish are arable ; the remainder is uncultivated. At least, one-half of the unreclaimed land might be profitably improved ; but in con- LANARK. S S 630 LANARKSHIRE. sequence of the want of capital amongst the tenantry^ and the ab- sence of adequate encouragement on the part of the landlords, H is to be feared that the heather-bell will bloom perennially in the parish. There are about five or six acres of undivided common. There are at least 500 acres under wood. Formerly the Scotch fir was planted to the exclusion of all other trees, but now spmce and larch are preferred, both of which thrive remarkably well. It is a pity that our landed proprietors seem to forget that he who plants a tree is a benefactor of his species. Shelter is sadly de- ficient, particularly in those districts where it is most required. Rent of Ltmd. — The average rent of arable land is from lOs. to L. 1, 10s. per acre. Wa^es. — The wages of labourers range from 10s. to 128. per week all the year round. Artisans, viz. masons and wrights, re» ceiveat an average from 18s. to L. I, 4s. a week. Live-Stock, — For the fineness and symmetry of their cows, the farmers here deserve much commendation. Their draught horses also are excellent, being the best Clydesdale breed. Much suc- cess has attended the rearing of horses in this parish. A stimulus has of late years been given to the improvement of &rm stock by the establishment of an agricultural society, whose shows are highly creditable to the tenantry of this district. A very large portion of land has been reclaimed, during these last twenty years, by means of draining and digging. Two first prizes for ameliorations were some time ago awarded by the High- land Society of Scotland to two gentlemen in this parish ; one to Cosmo Falconer, Esq. of Hartwoodhill, and the other to William Weir, Esq. of Shottsburn. Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years. Were they longer it would be much more advantageous for the occu- pier of the land, especially where a considerable part of the farm is waste. The tenants here are not, generally speaking, well accommodated with regard to dwelling-houses, but latterly an improvement in this respect has taken place. As almost all the raw produce raised in this parish is consumed by the farmers themselves, it is exceedingly difficult definitely to ascertain it value. Manufactures. — There are two iron-works in Shotts,— -one in the south-east, and the other in the south-west part of the parish. The former were established in 1602 by a few private individuals, BERTRAM SHOTTS. 631 aod have ever since been under the management of John Baird, Esq. who planned and superintended their erection. Besides the melting of iron ore, which was all that was originally contemplated 10 these works, an extensive foundry was built many years ago, the castings from which have long maintained a character second only to those of the Carron Company. For many years there was only one smelting furnace in blast, and the produce of pig-iron was DO more than 45 tons weekly, but in consequence of various local improvements, and particularly the use of heated air, the produce from two furnaces now in operation is 160 tons weekly. A third furnace is at present being erected. A large engineering establish- ment was added to the works some years ago, in which many ma- rine and land steam-engines, and other kinds of machinery, have been fitted up, which have given much satisfaction to the purchasers. The country around these works was formerly altogether un- productive, and, from the want of roads, was of little or no value; but from the impulse given to improvement by the circulation of L. 600 weekly amongst the workmen, &c. the face of the country faas undergone a most surprising change. The other iron-works in the south-west of the parish are called the Omoa works, and were erected in 1787. They are the pro- perty of Mr Young, and at present there is one furnace in opera- tion. It gives me sincere pleasure to state that Mr Baird has of late stopped the working of his furnaces on Sabbath. V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market-town in the parish. We have four villages, viz. Shotts Works, Omoa, Harthill, and Sallysburgh. We have a penny-post at Shotts Works, and have reason to expect that in a very short time there will be another established on the line of the mail-coach in Sallysburgh. The length of the turnpike roads in the parish is about seventeen miles, and no fewer than twenty public coaches pass through it daily. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands in a very centrical po- sition, being, as nearly as may be, equidistant from the different ex- tremities of the parish. It was built in the year 1820, and is in a good state of repair. It affords accommodation for 1200 persons. All the sittings are free. Within the last year a new manse was built, which may well be characterized as most substantial and com- modious. Great praise is due to the heritors for their liberality IB erecting such an excellent house. The glebe extends to 632 LANARKSHIRE. nearly 44 acres, and as to surface value, is worth L. 1 per acre. Four acres arc under wood. The glebe lands contain two seams of coal, viz. the parrot or splint, and the smithy. From these seams coal was wrought to a greater or less extent by my pre- decessors during the last thirty-six years. The subject of the glebe minerals was first brought before the presbytery of Hamilton in the year 1802 by Mr Hamilton, the then incumbent of Shotts. He represented to the presbytery that he had worked coals in his glebe sufficient for his family in the season, and had sold as much as defrayed the expenses of the working. He farther stated, that certain stone or other durable fences for the improvement of the glebe would be of permanent advantage to the minister of the pa* rish, and that these objects might be obtained by authorizing hiuL to continue the working the coal and selling the same for a time,. the profits of which to be applied in making the above ameliora- tion. Upon this representation by Mr Hamilton, the presbytery autho- rized him to continue the working and sale of the coal. Such was the commencement of the sale of the coal in the glebe of Shotts, which has been continued till within these few years. Some time ago, his Grace the Duke of Hamilton sunk a coal-pit in the im- mediate vicinity of the glebe, upon which he erected an engine, and by means of which the whole coal of the glebe could easily be wrought. Finding, it is believed, this to be the case, an offer was made on bchulf of the Duke of Hamilton to purchase the coal and other minerals within the glebe. Doubts and difficulties having been started as to the legality of a sale, the transaction has not as yet been carried into effect. The abstract question, as to the power of an absolute sale, seems not to have been hitherto expressly decided, yet, by analogy to other decided cases, it does not appear to be a question attended with any serious difficulty. Could the heritors and presbytery be convinced of this, a considerable increase might be obtained to the value of the living. The stipend is 16 chalders of grain, and L. 25, 16s. 6d. irv money. There is one Seceding chapel in the parish, belonging to tlx^ Associate Synod, which was built in the year 1771. The stipet^^ of the minister amounts to L. 120 per annum. With regard t-o this congregation (which owed its existence to the violent intT'^-i' won of Mr Wells) I may remark, that, although still in a stat^ ^^ BERTRAM SHOTfS. 633 secession, they have, nevertheless, all along consistently maintain- ed the principle of an Establishment, and, of course, cherish a friendly feeh'ng toward the mother church. The number of families who adhere to the Established Church is 457, and the number of persons of all ages attending the church of Shotts is fully 800. Our average number of communicants is nearly 500. The amount of church collections yearly may be stated at L. 27. The Seceding chapel is attended by 150 fami« lies, and the number of sittings let is about 500. Those belonging to the United Secession church are 125 families; of the remaining part of the population, 10 families are Roman Catholics, 5 Came- ronians, 2 Episcopalians, and 1 Unitarian. Education. — The total number of schools in the parish is 6. Of these, 3 are endowed, and 3 unendowed. There are none supported by societies, but one by individual subscription. The branchesofeducation which are taught are, Greek, Latin, English, geography, writing, and arithmetic. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 34, 4s. 4d. : his fees may amount to L. 2d : and his other emoluments to L. 18. I am not aware that there are any of the young between six and fif- teen years of age who cannot read or write, although there are a few adults in that unfortunate state of ignorance. A school is much required for Omoa Works, where there is a population of at least 260 souls. They are at a considerable distance from any place of instruction. Literature. — There are two circulating libraries in the parish. In the library belonging to the Shotts Iron-works, there is a large and excellent assortment of books. Charitable and other Institutions. — There is no savings bank in the parish, but we have it' in contemplation to establish, in a very short time, an agency here in connexion with the National Se- curity's Savings Bank in Glasgow. I have been endeavouring to enlighten the people on this most important subject, by means of ^he circulation of pamphlets and otherwise ; and I have little doubt hut that all the working-classes will gladly become depositors when- ever the opportunity is afforded them. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons nrho receive parochial aid is 60, and the sum allotted to each per "veek may be stated to be Is. 2d. The proportion of that sum ^urising from church collections is L. 15. A legacy was left to the poor of this parish some years ago, the annual interest of which 634 LANARKSHIRE. amounts to L. 1 1. I am glad to have it in my power to state that, generally speaking, there is a spirit of independence amongst the poorer classes, which causes them to refrain as long as possible from asking parochial relief; such relief being considered as very de- grading. Fairs,-— In virtue of a ^^ warrand granted by James VIL, anuo 1685, to the Duke of Hamilton, for two yearly £urs and a weekly mercat at the Kirk of Shotts," there are two fairs held in the parish every year, one on the third Tuesday of June, old style, and the other on the third Tuesday of November, old style. The locality chosen for the said fairs is somewhat mal a propos, being immediately adjoining the church. The cEief business done at these markets is the buying and selling of horses and cattle. Inns^ 4fc. — There are 16 public-houses in the parish. Many of these, however, are chiefly supported by travellers on the great roads between Glasgow and Edinburgh. Unquestionably, if we had fewer alehouses, we would have less intemperance, and were these shut on the Sabbath, there would be less desecration of the Lord's day, but still, all circumstances considered, it cannot be said that drunkenness prevails to any great extent among us. FtieL — The fuel which is used here is coal, peat being rarely seen in the parish. Indeed there is no inducement to dig in the mosses, as a cart of coal weighing 12 cwt. can be purchased at the Duke of Hamilton's pit for the small sum of 2s^ This, however, is an inferior kind of parrot coal, but the ashes are considered very valuable as manure. Miscellaneous Observations. There is a very marked contrast between the state of the pa- rish as it now exists, and as it is represented in the last Statisti- cal Account. A large proportion of those lands whieh were then unreclaimed, and which are there spoken of as unimprovable, is now under til- lage, and bears astonishingly good crops. The price of labour is now much higherand a better and more ready market can be obtained for all kinds of provisons. Much advantage has of late years been de- rived by the inhabitants of the parish from the Shotts Iron*works, — the employment which is there given to the active and well-behav- ed, and the money which is there circulated weekly, may well call forth a desire on the part of us all for their prosperity and extension. It cannot be too strongly pressed upon the proprietors of the parish, that draining and planting are improvements of paramount OLD MONKLAND. 635 importance in ShoCts. It is admitted by competent judges, that the soil is in general very good ; why then should the benefits of such ameliorations be withheld ? With regard to the reclaiming of waste land, the experiment has been tried again and again, and the result has invariably been, that the expense of such improve- ment, when judiciously made, is repaid in a few years, and that the land is ever after able to stand the regular routine of cropping. The industry of the working classes here is amply recompensed ; and were they more provident of their earnings, their hlEippiness and comfort would be much increased. Aiiffutt 1839. PARISH OF OLD OR WEST MONKLAND* PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. WILLIAM THOMSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of the Monklands is unknown ; but it appears from the Chartulary of the Monks of Newbottle, for many years lost, but recovered by Patrick Modart, about 1462, and now in the Advocates' Library, that the present was the po- pularly received name of this district before ld'2d. The etymo- logy is not difficult. The lands of Monkland, formerly constitut- ingf a third part of the domains of the Abbacy of Newbottle, were fi>r many ages the property of a company of Cistertian or Bernar- dine monks belonging to that abbey, and hence the very obvious appellation, the ** Monklands," was given to all their ecclesiasti- cal domains in this quarter of the country. When this extensive district was afterwards divided and erected into two parishes, one of these parishes was called Old or West Monkland, and the other New or East Monkland, and they are now popularly known by the names of the Old and New Monklands. BoundarieSf Extent j Sfc. — The parish of Old Monkland is a re- markably fine, extensive, rather flat and low- lying district, extend- ing along the eastern bank of the river Clyde for many miles, im- mediately after leaving the highly ornamental and picturesque scenery of Bothwell and Hamilton, and before it reaches the great * Dnwn tip by the Rer. William Patrick, author of a DeaeriptioD of the Planta of Lanaikahirci &c. 636 LANAKKSUIBB. commercial emporium of the west, the city of Glasgow. " A stranger," says the Rev. Mr Bower in the last Statistical Report, " is struck with the view of this parish. It has the appearance of an immense garden." The old parish constitutes by far thelovesti richest, and most interesting portion of the Monklands, andbenee the remark of the same authority, *^ the monks, who usually fiied upon a pleasant situation, had a residence here." Perhaps their superior skill in agriculture and gardening rendered the places they fixed upon at once more pleasant and valuable ; but, had that able and diligent minister of the Gospeljived to the present day, ha would have been constrained to admit, that the monks were for ^ once deceived in their choice, for, although the surface of Old Monkland is the most valuable, still a very large proportion of the mineral stores which supply her furnaces and other public works are brought from the New Monkland. The true value of the re- spective districts at the present day is therefore much on the &o» of the east parish. From Monkland House in the south-east, to Clyde Iron-woA* in the north-west, the parish of Old Monkland is about 10 m'*^ in length. The widest place, from the bridge over the Calder a»^ Carnbroe to the lodge near Glenboig in the Haggmuir, Is abow* 4^ miles. Between Calder Iron-works and the lands of Rocbs*^' loch the distance is only about 4 furlongs, while in ^ other plac^^ the parish varies in breadth from 2 to 3 miles. Old Monkland ** bounded on the north by the parishes of New Monkland, Cadd^^' and barony of Glasgow ; on the east, by part of the parishes ^ New Monkland and Bothwell ; on the south, by Bothwell; ^^ on the west, by the river Clyde, which separates it from Camb*^ lang and Rutherglen. Meteorology. — The average ranges of the thermometer and l>^' remoter in this district of the country are pretty well known fr^^ its vicinity to Glasgow, where registers are regularly kept. ^^ perhaps, the following statement of facts, relating to the prevail •^^ ° winds, and certain other changes and peculiarities of the weatl*^ ' may be not less new than interesting. The particulars have b^^ carefully selected and arranged from a general journal of ^ ^ weather, kept by the late William Mack, Esq. of Fruitfield, ^^ submitted to the author's inspection by Mr Mack's son, J^^*^ Mack, Esq. of Bellefield. The observations are daily, and ^ g period included is from January 1799 to June 1826 — a period ^ nbout twenty-seven years. The following is an account of the prevailing winds from Jani^ ^* • OLD MONKLAND. 637 1800 to January 1820, including a period of 20 years, or 7304 days. Only the four cardinal points, with the four intermediate points of the compass, are given. When the winds were^variable, they are set down for the day in the direction in which they gene- rally blew. With these qualifications, the other results may be relied on. The letters at the top denote the points of the com- pass, and the figures below the number of days in which the wind blew in that direction. The periods of observation are divided into two portions, namely, from 1800 to 1810, and from 1810 to 1820. Observations are also given for each particular month. Days. N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E. N.E. N.W. Jan. First 1 years windslilew, 5 55 63 88 32 49 8 12 Second do. • 3 15 ] 102 144 23 5 5 11 Feb. First 10 years. . 3 29 39 116 24 35 6 30 Second do. . 15 42 176 25 6 7 11 Mar. First 10 years. . 2 12 120 91 22 22 9 32 Second do. . 2 7 8 196 12 4 5 3 April First 10 years. 6 34 72 101 23 10 10 44 Second do. ] 16 ] L12 127 15 8 7 14 May First 10 years. 10 17 77 87 33 9 12 65 Second do. 8 24 146 15 2 2 13 June First 10 years. 3 23 52 100 25 9 3 85 Second do. • 5 21 83 146 14 1 1 37 July First 10 years, 3 21 68 109 18 23 6 62 Second do. 1 18 44 202 20 7 2 17 Aug. First 10 years. • 1 29 40 156 42 18 4 20 Second do. 2 14 44 209 22 6 3 10 Sept First 10 years, . 8 36 45 110 28 24 4 49 Second do. 8 32 50 141 27 18 9 15 Oct. First 10 years, 4 24 61 1 10 27 24 4 56 Second do. • 4 32 67 122 28 15 12 30 Nov. First 10 years, 6 19 67 104 16 24 18 46 Second do. 11 23 62 106 42 20 13 15 Dec. first 10 years, 2 24 44 124 29 45 4 34 Second do. 6 24 84 138 24 12 12 11^ Total days, 96 548 1643 3149 586 393 166 723 The following table will give the sum total for the particular months for the whole 20 years included between 1600 and 1820. N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E. ] N.E. N.W. January, 8 70 165 232 55 54 13 23 February, 3 44 81 292 49 41 13 41 March, 4 19 201 287 34 26 14 a5 April, 7 50 184 228 38 18 17 58 Rfay, . 10 25 201 233 48 11 14 78 June, 8 44 135 246 39 10 4 122 July, 4 39 112 311 38 30 8 79 August, 3 43 84 365 64 24 7 30 September, . 16 68 95 251 55 39 13 64 October, 8 56 128 232 55 39 16 86 November, 17 42 129 210 58 44 31 61 December, 8 48 128 265 53 57 16 46 Days wind in 20 years, 96 548 1643 3149 586 393 166 723 688 LANARKSHIRE. Id 20 ;ear8, or 7304 days, the winds were 4458 in a westerly direction, i. e. including the west, north-west, and south-west; in an easterly direction 2202 days, including east, north-east, and south-east ; 548 south, and 96 only north. The following summary will bring the results more immediately under the eye of the reader: Winds westerly, 4458 days. Do. easterly, . • 2202 Do. south, . ^^ Do. north, .96 Total days, . 7304 In 620 days of January weather there were 227 days of frost, and in 564 days of February weather 134 days of frost. In 1184 days, there were 361 frosty days. They stood thus with regard to the winds. Days. N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E.. N.E. N.W. January, 2 17 123 27 4 30 6 18 Febnutfy, . 3 15 54 39 4 10 9 Total days frost, 5 32 177 66 8 40 6 27 The average number of frosty days for each month of January for twenty years was 11.7; in February for the same period, 6.14 days. In November and December the days of frost were as fol- lows : — Days. November, December, Total days frost, 6 10 183 72 6 19 7 31 The total days frost in November for the above number of years was 120 days, which, at an average, gives six days of frost for each month of November. The number of frosty days in December for a similar period was 211, which gives 10.1 days of frost for each month of December in twenty years. For the four winter months, November, December, January, and February, the results will stand thus :— N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E. N.E N.W. November and December, . 6 10 183 72 6 16 7 31 January and February, 5 32 177 66 8 . 40 6 27 N. S. E. W. S.W S.E. N.E. N.W. 3 2 72 18 3 6 7 12 3 8 111 54 3 13 19 Total days frost in 4 months, 11 42 360 138 14 56 13 58 Thus, in the period of twenty years, out of 2404 days of winter weather, there were 692 days of frost, which gives on an average of years 33.24 days of irost for the four winter months as above. It will also be observed, that 422 of these days of frost were from the east, while 210 were from the west, which leaves only OLD MONKLAND. 639 60 days for the winds and days of frost from the remaining points of the compass. The following table will bring the above results more in detail under the eye of the reader. The first column of figures contains the number of days collectively for twenty years for the accompanying months : the second column includes the number of days of frost in the months of those years ; and the third the avei:age for each month. Arerage annual daya Days for 20 jeais. Days frost for 20 years. for each month., . NoTember, .600 .120 .6. Deeember, .620 .211 10.1 January, .620 .227 . 11.7 February, 564 . . 134 . • 6.14 2404 692 38.24 The number of days in which it snowed in the respective months of November, December, January, and February, during the whole of the twenty years, with the directions in which the wind blew, is as follows : — N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E. N.E. N.W. November, _ 1 14 5 ...» 8 -«. 2 December, • _^ 1 20 18 1 6 _ 2 January, 1 2 86 28 n 8 — 3 February, . 1 2 22 85 6 6 — 6 2 6 92 81 18 23 _ 13 In 2404 days of winter weather during twenty years, it snowed only 235 days. The following table, drawn up on the same prin- ciple as that showing the number of days of frost, will exhibit readi- ly the general results :«> Average amiual days snow Days for 20 years. Days do. snow. for each month. November, . 600 . 25 1. 5 December, .620 .43 . 2. 3 January, . 620 . 89 ' . 414 February, c 564 .78 3.18 2405 235 10.40 In the month of March during the twenty years, there were in all 100 days of snow, while in April there were only 48. The average number of snowy days in March is, therefore, 5, while in April it is only 2.8. Most of these, however, are only blasty days; but sometimes heavy snows fall in April, as 25th April 1812, and 8th and 9th April 1818; and in 1809, on the evening of Monday tbe 29th May, a great snow began to fall, which covered the earth for three days. Wind east and west The weather was broken by a good deal of thunder on the 16th and 17th of May. 640 LANARKSHIRE. Among the popular errors of the day, we may mention the ready credence given by many persons to the le^ndary powers of St Swithen, a watery saint, who, if it rains upon his day, (the 15th of July,) is said to *^ keep his word," and squeezes the ele- ments of their aqueous contents so effectually, that it rains for six weeks after. As reasoning will not at all times correct supersti- tions, which are the worst of popular follies, we may try the weight of facts, and we shall see that, at least for the first twenty years of the nineteenth century of the Christian era, St Swithen had either lost, or voluntarily consented to give up, his power. Instead of six weeks or forty-two days after ] 5th July, I have allowed forty«seTen days, which carries us to the end of August. For each of the first twenty years of the century the facts are as follow : — July 15th. 1800, Fine, sunny, • 1801, Warm, showery, 1802, Warm, mild, 1803, Very warm, sunny, 1804, Warm, drought, 1805, Very warm, sunny, 1806, Warm, thunder showers, 1807, Warm, showery, 1808, Great drought, warm, 1809, Mild day, 1810, Good dry day, 1811, Dry and cold, 1812, Warm and dry, 1818, Very warm, 1814, Dark, mild, 1815, Gentle showers. Wet days. Wind, in 6 weeks. Weather about 15th July. S.W. W. W. W. E. & S.E. Var. wind. S. w. E. N.W. W. w. w. w. w. Var. wind. E. 4 Warm and dry. 8 Warm, showery. 17 Frost, rain, bail, 12, 1^ 14 14 Fine about 15th. 19 Fine weather. 18 Fine weather. 15 Thunder showers. 17 Warm, showery. 22 Very dry. 22 14th, wettish—rest dry. 18 Warm, mostly dry. 25 Wettish. 8 Warm and dry. 4 Heavy rain 16th. 21 Dark, dry. 10 Dry with showers. 15 Cold, wet. 19 Cold, frosty. 8 Warm, showers. 7 Cloudy, warm. 1816, Wet day, 1817, Frost morn, warm day, Var. wind. 1818, Warm, cloudy, - S. 1819, Very warm, sunny, - S.E. It would appear that it rained during the above years on 6ve different occasions on St Swithen's dav; but instead of the 15th of July being followed on each occasion with six weeks of rain, there were only 63 days of rain in thirty weeks. It thundered only on 62 out of 7304 days. There was no thunder in January, February, Septenaber, or December. In the other months the number of days, with the direction of the winds which brought the thunder, is as follows : — N. S. E. W. S.W.. S.E. N.E. N.W. Varisblc March, . — — — 12 1 — 1 April, . — — 2 — May, . 2 3 1 1 1 — -. __ 8 June, . — 2 2 — 3 July, .— 24 116 — — 5 August, — .^321__— 7 3 OLD MONKLAND. 641 N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E. N.E. N.W. Variable. October, .— ._ — 1 I NoTcmber, — . — — 2 — — — 4 14 10 5 7 — 1 20 Out of the 62 days thunder, 33 occurred in July and August, viz. 19 in the month of July, and 14 in the month of August. The days of thunder here set down include only those electric dis- charges which were heard in the district. There might be thun- der in the night-time which was not heard. The number of days in which it actually rained, in whole or in part, for each month during twenty years, (as above,) is as fol- lows :— Days of wind. N. S. E. W. S.W. S.E. N.E. N.W. Variable. January, . - .^19^43 84 1 4 6 February, - — 16 764 15 6— 2 5 Mareb, - - — IS 9 69 11 1 — 1 11 AprU, - — 20 19 434-^— 3 5 May, . . — 12 35 62 14 3 — 8 17 Junci, - 4 19 12 64 13 4 — 7 13 July, . . 1 22 24 75 13 5 — 19 23 Aujmst, - — 23 23 108 15 2 1 4 18 September, - 3 34 29 47 18 7 — 8 10 October, - - 1237 70 22 5 223 13 November. - — 17 8 55 10 2 — 9 15 December, - — 423682— 4 21 Total winds with days rain —--———----— -——.—^-^—— —— for 20 yean, - 9 222 175 736 151 41 4 92 157 The total number of days on which rain fell over the space of twenty years was 1587, which gives on an average 79.7 days of rain per annum, or more than two months out of the twelve, of constant uninterrupted rain. The total days of rain, frost, snow, and hail, for twenty years, was as under : Days. Rain, . n587 Frost, 827 Snow, . 320 Hail, . 30 Total for twenty years, 2764 of rain, frost, snow, and hail. This gives about 138 days per annum for the onfalls as above, and about 227 for days on which there is no onfall, or, in other words, 2764 stormy or wet days in a period of 7304 days, and du- ring the same period 4540 good days. We do not therefore de- serve to be so much pitied for our wet weather, as some of our neighbours believe us to be. Hydrography. — The Clyde is the principal river in the district. It enters this parbh at Daldowie, forming its western boundary, and leaves it at Clyde Iron-works. The tide reaches till within a little dbtance of the parish, but no part of it is here navigable. 642 LANARKSHIRE. The North Calder is a considerable stream, with fine wooded banks. It rises near the farm of Braco, in the parish of Shotts, and falls into the Clyde at Daldowie. There are various other small burns, which are all lost either mediately or immediately in the Clyde. There are several lochs in the parish, but their baab are tame, and they have no picturesque beauty. Bishop Locb ' covers a space of about 80 acres; Woodend Loch, 50 acres; and Lochend, 40 acres. Very large pike are sometimes caught io these lochs, occasionally as heavy as 12^ lbs. Geology and Mineraloffy. — The Monklands are famous for their coal, iron, and other valuable mineral stores. These, as id other places, evidently lie in basins, the thickest seams above tbe lime, and the inferior seams of coal intermixed with, or lying be* tween, various basins of limestone. The coals wrought in tke Monklands are all above the lime, which is at a great depth here^ but in proportion as they approach the lime, as it comes to tbe surface, the lower and inferior seams of coal are only found. Tbe following are the principal seams of coal known to exist in tbis district, t. e. of workable coal. 1st The upper coal, coarse and seldom workable. Its average distance above the ell-coal is from 14 to 16 fathoms. 2d. The £11 or Mossdale coal, 3 to 4 feet thick, of inferior es- timation in this parish, and generally too thin to work; but io some places a thick coal, and of excellent quality. 3d. The Pyotshaw, or rough-ell, from 3 to 5 feet thick, and from 7 to 10 fathoms below the ell-coal. 4th. The Main coal. It often unites with the above, and forms one seam, as at Drumpellier, in this parish. These two seams are thus sometimes in actual contact, and in other instances se- parated by a wide interval of 6 or 7 fathoms. 5th. Humph coal, seldom thick enough to be workable in ibis parish, and generally interlaid with fragments of freestone, about 10 fathoms below Main coal. 6th. Splint coal. About 4 fathoms below the Humph, affld of very superior quality. It varies from 2 to 5 feet in thickness, a^d is mostly used for smelting iron. This seam, when of any consi- derable thickness, is justly esteemed when got by the proprietor here a great prize. 7th. Little coal, always below splint, the distance varying fr^"* 3 fathoms to 6 feet It is from 3 to 3^ feet in thickness, and ^ a free sulphury coal of inferior quality. OLD MONKLAND. 643 8th. The Virtue-well, or sour-milk coal, from 2 to 4 feet thick, occurs from 26 to 28 fathoms below the splint. 9tfa. The Kiltongue coal lies 22 fathoms below the Virtue-well, and like it is from 2 to 4 feet in thickness. 10th. The Drumgray coal lies 6 fathoms below the Kiltongue, and perhaps from 60 to 1 00 fathoms above the first or upper band of limestone. It is seldom more than 18 or 20 inches thick. There are besides these ten seams about twenty-three smaller seaois between them, none of which are of a workable thickness. The total thickness of the coal measures above the lime may be about 775 feet This large and important coal-field is much intersected with dikes, and a knowledge of these is a knowledge of the strata, and of the manner in which they are affected by them. The first dike that throws in the Monkland seams on the south, runs through the lands of Rosehall, Tannochside, Britishholm, and Calder Park, where it is seep in the burn, and then through the lands of Mount Vernon, where it throws down the coal, and throws in the large field of Rosehall, Birthwood, Britishholm, and Mount Ver- non. 2. To the north of the above, a large dike comes from Newarthill, and throws in the coal in Faskin, Palace Craig, Kairn- hill, Gamturk, Lower Coats, Drumpellier, Keelhill, and termi- nates at Easter House. This terminates the Monkland field to the west 3. Still farther to the north, a third dike enters the parish on the east, at Kippsbyre, passes the lands of Raw by Sommerlee Iron- Works, by the south side of Gartsherrie estate, and then running towards Bishop Loch, it throws in Kippsbyre, Grargunnock, and Gartsherrie fields. The splint coal is found as far north as Gartcloss, after which it and its accompanying strata do not come in again in that direction. 4. Another downthrow dike to the north passes through the estate of Gartsherrie, and throws in the Gartgill and Gartcloss fields. This forms the northern boundary of the Monkland seams« The following will afford a pretty correct idea of the statistics of the coal workings in this district. The coal pits now in actual operation, or now sinking, with their depths, and the seams of coal found in them, are nearly as follows, — leaving it, however, to be understood, that since the following list was taken, various new pits have been begun, so that every week almost brings with it some new improvements and new workings. Gartsherrie. — It is of no consequence where weiegin, provided Other rocks. Fath. Ft. In 8 3 3 7 3 7 3 641 LANARKSHIRE. > we give an accurate idea of all the principal workings. The suc- cession of strata at Gartsherrie is as follows : — Coal. Ft. In. 1. Coal (first coal), 2 2. Sandstone and shale, 3. Coal (2d), 3 3 4. Sandstone and shale, 5. Coal (3d), 4 6. Sandstone and shale, 7. Coal (4th), 1 4 8. Sandstone and shale, 9. Coal (5th), 3 4 1. The Grartcloss mine, or inclined plane, is 30 fathoms deep, and contains the Pyotshaw, Main, and Splint coals, and they are now sinking to the Virtuewell and Kiltongue. The EU-coal, which is 8 fathoms above the Pyotshaw, seems to be off here, but they begin to work it at Mount Vernon, and away west to Glas- gow. 2. Gartgill, (Mr Colt), 40 fathoms deep, has the three main seams. The Main and Pyotshaw are within 10 inches of each other, and form a working of 12 feet. 3. Gartsherrie, No. 1, 40 fathoms, all the seams; No. 2, SO fathoms, all the seams except the Ell-coal, which is here cropt off. 4. Gunnie, (Messrs Baird,) No. 1, 27 fathoms, all the coals except the Ell. No. 2, now sinking 50 fathoms, all the coals. 5. Greenhill, (William Baillie). All the coals except the ell, about 18 fathoms Jo the splint. 6. Drumpellier (Mr Buchanan,) Nos. 3, 4, 5 and 6, varying from 36 to 70 fathoms. In one of these pits the Pyotshaw and main coals are wrought together, at an aggregate thickness of 7^ feet The splint here is very thin, only from 26 to 40 inches. 7. Calder Iron-works, — 2 coal-pits, one 1 00 fathoms, the deep- est in the parish ; other pit 40 fathoms, all the coals. 8. Palace Craig, 2 pits, one 40 fathoms, another 70 fathoms, all the seams. The upper ironstone, 18 inches in thickness, is about 24 fathoms aboTe the ell coal. The succession of strata in the intervening space are as follows : 1. Black ironstone, 2. Shale with thin bands of ironstone, 3. Sandstone and shale, 4. Coal interlaced with, Co Ft «ls. In. Ironstone. Ft. In. 1 Other rocks. Fath. Ft. 4 4 1 Tn, 6 U stone, 5. Sandstone. 6. Shale, 2 10 7 1 6 OLDMONKLAND. - 645 Coals. Ironstone. Other rocky. Ft. In. Ft. In. Fath. Ft. In. 7. Black shale and clay, 8 10 &Coa], ...08 00 000 9. Slaty clay, .00 00 008 laPire-dav, . 14 11. White fire-clay, 2 12. Sandy &kes, Ac. 4 la Sandstone, .00 00 010 14. Shale and ironstone, 10 15. Black tull, .0000 006 16. Ironstone, .00 16000 17. Fire-clay, .00 00017 la Black tull, .00 00014 19. Shale and &kes, 2 6 20. Shale and toll, 1 10 21. Sandstone and shale, 5 7 22. Cbal, ..02 00000 23. Shale and cky, 7 2 24. Sandstone, .00 00160 25. Shale and clay, 14 26. £ll.eoal, . . 2 10 9. Faskin. It was at this place that the coal was first opened up. The Lady Anne seam of coal derives its name from Lady Anne Stirling, wife of Mr A. Stirling. In like manner we may here mention, that Pyotshaw is the name of a place in Cairnhill, Kiltongue is a place near Braidenhill, and Virtuewell is on the es- tate of Mr Nisbet of Cairnhill, in New Monkland. Engine pit, 75 fathoms, began 1790, got coal 179 L The splint or Lady Anne coal was first found here. 10. Whiteflat, 2 pits, 40 fathoms. The journal of the pit No. 2 is as follows. CoaL Ironstone. Other rocks. Ft. In. Ft. In. Fath. Ft. In. 1. AlluTium, 4 2. Sandstone fidtes, &c. 5 2 &£lU«oal, •2 1 4. Shale. 4 10 5 Coal, 1 2 6. Pire-day, 2 7. Fakes, 8 1 9 S. Sandstone, 1 2 9. Shale, 5 10. Pyotshaw ooal. 8 2 11. To the splint coal, 26 12. Splint coal. 3 6 la To black band ironstom B. 18 U. Black band ironstone. . I 6 1 1. Keelhill. The oldest working pit in the parish, and has put out more coals, perhaps, than any other in the west of Scotland, having been in active operation for the last thirty years. The pit is upwards of 60 fathoms. The Pyotshaw and main seams are close together, and form an aggregate working of from 9 to 10 feet. LANARK. T t 64G LANAllKSHlttE. 12. Netherhouse. Pits from 30 to 40 fathoms, with tbe three main seams, Pyotshaw, main, and splint 13. Easter House. This is the north-west boundary of the Monkland seams. The pits are about* 40 fathoms. Three seams are found, but the splint only is wrought. The metals here are much deranged, and the coal much injured with the whin. 14. Mount Vernon. Pit (in Barony,) 70 fathoms. Two seams, Pyotshaw and main. The splint is from 12 to 15 fathoms below, but is so thin that it is not worth working. The strata here are as follow : Coal. Other rocks. Ft. In. Path. Ft. In. 1. Sandstone, &c. 30 2. Coal (1st,) 1 2 3. Sandstone, &c. 27 4. Coal (2d,) 4 5. Sandstone and shale, 6 6. Coal (3d,) 4 15. Rosehall. Two pits in one shanking. Deepest 26 fa- thoms to main, and 16 fathoms to splint; in all, upwards of 40 fathoms. The succession of strata here is as follows : Coal. Oil 3er rocks. Ft. In. Fath. Ft. In. 1. Coal (1st,) 1 8 2. Sandstone and shale. 7 aCoal(2 .410 Males above 20 years of age^ 21^ Male servants, . * 848 Female servants, . . »' Families, . .179 Inhabited bouses, . I^ employed in agriculture, 14 in trade, manufactures, &c. 126 There is also a considerable village population in the following villages :— Tollcross, Carmyle, Foxley and Broomhouse, Barra- chine, Morriston and East Morriston, Bargeddie, Dykehead, and Coatdyke. In the lists taken up for the Church Commission, the results were as follows : — 1. That part of the parish bounded on the south by the Clya^ and Calder, including all to the south of the parish road from Breadiesholm avenue head to the Edinburgh turnpike road, near Bailiestone Toll, and along the south side of the turnpike road to the westmost end of the parish. Total males and females, 2054 Under 7 years of age, . 445 12 years of age, . 676 2. To the north of the above district, including all to the nortn of the parish road, beginning at the end of Longmuir road, pass- ing Breadiesholm avenue, and running on to the turnpike road at Bailiestone Toll, and westward to Barrachine. This district is OLD MONKLAND. 653 bounded on the west by the Longnauir road, onward to the canal at Cuilhill, and from thence to Whitehill, near the parish of Cadder. Total males and females, . 1 182 Under 7 years of age, . 292 12 years of age,. 498 8. That part of the parish included within a line beginning at the south-east corner of the narrow parish road opposite Breadies- holm gateway, crossing the turnpike near Rhins, onwards to Seving Bridge, round by Netherhouse, Commonhead, Cpilhill, Long- muir, Dykehead, and terminating with Mainhill. Also all within a line beginning at Bailiestone Toll, including all on the west of the road, which leads from Bailiestone Toll towards the canal, and all on the south side of the canal to the western extremity of the pa- rish, near Glenduffhill, and all on the north of the Edinburgh roaJ from Barrachine to Bailiestone Toll. Total males and females, . 1009 Under 7 years of age, . 278 12 years of age» . 412 4. This district is bounded on the south, by Dundyvan or Lug- gie Burn (except one house south side of it) ; on the north, by the Glasgow and Edinburgh >oad from the east, and of Coats Bridge to the west end of Langlone ; on the east, by the lands of Coats and Dundyvan Canal cut; and on the west, by the mill or church road. In this district fourteen new houses were inhabited between the time that this census was begun and concluded. Total males and females, . 1943 Under 7 years of age, . 435 12 years of age, . 633 5* This district includes all to the east of Blair Bridge road, on to where the Kirkintilloch Railway joins the parish of Cadder ; and all from Blair Bridge road to the north of Edinburgh road, on to Coats west gate, and all on the west of a line drawn from Coats House, on to where the railway joins the New Monkland parish. Total males and females, . 1923 Under 7 years of age, 527 12 years of age, 753 6. This district includes all to the east of a line from Coats House to Luggie Water near Dundyvan iron- works, to the south of Luggie Water or to Langlone Mill Bridge, to the east of the road from Luggie Mill Bridge, onward to Old Monkland Kirk, and in a line due south to the Calder, and all to north of the Calder, from that point to the eastern extremity of the parish. Total males and females, .1751 Under 7 years of age, 447 12 years of age, 569 654 LANARKSHIUE. These districts include only 8862 of the iDhabitants. The de- tails of the remaining districts have unfortunately not been put into the writer's possession ; but the whole population, as taken up in 1837, was 1 1,577, which, 'compared with the population of 1831, which was 9580, is an increase, in five years, of 1997, or at the rate of 399 per annum, or rather upwards. At the same rate the national census in 1841 will probably return at least 13^580, or probably more. It is, in fact, almost impossible at present to cal- culate, upon any rational data, the ratio of increase. Since last general census in 1831, and since 1837, the population has io- creased vastly. When the census was taken for the Church Com- mission in 1837, the houses, with their inhabitants, which bad been erected and inhabited since 1831, were nearly as follows. But it must be premised, that the increase of houses, or rather of entire villages', since 1837, has been very great. 1. Houses on the south of Garnkiik Rail\vay, a little west of bihabitants. Gartsherrie Inn, - - - - - - 30 2. Witch-tree cottage, - - - - 13 3. Cross-roads, • • - - - - - 24 4. Two new rows near Gartsherrie Works, - - - 200 5. New houses near CrosshiU, - - - . - 131 6. New houses Coatdyke. 7. Locks road new houses, ..... 47 8. Houses near old quarry opposite Laigh Coats, . - - 20 9. Cairnhill bridge new houses, - •> - - 4o 10 Caldcr bridge new row. ]]. Summerlee new houses, . . . . „ 150 6(50 These were erected previous to 1837 ; and since that period erections have been taking place for the accommodation of the in- habitants on a much more extensive scale. The increase of the population in this parish is almost entirely' owing to the coal ai^^ iron trade. There is no certain method of ascertaining the ma.*^' riages, baptisms, and deaths, for the last seven years, as the p^^' rish within that period has been divided, quoad spiritualia, in '^^ three parishes, viz. the Old Parish, and the parishes of Crossh '^^ and Gartsherrie. The proclamations for the following years ^c^^^ in each month of the respective years in the parish church were * follow : 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. January, 10 5 7 12 12 13 9 February, 4 10 6 12 5 7 12 March, 3 6 10 15 9 13 7 April, 10 10 9 9 6 13 7 May, 7 3 6 17 21 20 . 11 June, 4 12 12 11 14 7 11 July, 7 4 7 6 16 7 6 GLD MONKLAND. 655 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. August, 10 7 7 8 9 5 9 September, 4 9 5 5 12 3 5 October, 9 2 14 7 16 10 16 November, 9 6 17 11 15 17 18 December, 9 8 7 12 14 7 12 86 82 107 125 149 122 124 The total number of proclamations in seven years was 755, which gives an average of 108 proclamations per annum. The' baptisms in 1831 were 136 in the parish church. The number elsewhere cannot be ascertained. The regular marriages were 103, which is very near the average of the proclamations. There was in that year only one irregular marriage. In the same year, the burials were 52 males and 50 females. The deaths in this district generally are 1 in 169 nearly. The registers, from the change of schoolmasters and other causes, have, for the last seven yenrs, been kept very irregularly. The village population in 1831 was 2038, and the rural, 7470. About 37 heritors pay for school- master's salary, L. 23, 5s. 3d. ; 53 heritors pay for poor's rates, L. 212, 7s. 3d. The number of proprietors of land of the value of L.50 and upwards is about 40. The ancient valuation of the parish is L. $480, 18s. 9d. Scots, and is thus distributed : Rosehall, . . L.7d3 13 4 Garturk, . . . L.183 Daldowie, . . 321 6 8 Kaimhill, ... 60 Gartsherrie, . • 523 6 8 Neuk and Sandycroft, . 61 Milntowa, . . 182 3 Pyotshaw and Scar-hole, 17 Kenmuir, . . 174 Baird's Mailing, . . 14 Langlone and Drumpellier, 172 Creaswoods, N. and S. 47 Blairtumock, . . 88 15 8 Faskine, . . . 161 8 11 Bruntbroom, . . 37 19 3 Bogleshill, . . 176 Sutterhouse, . . 100 Hutcheson.and Carmyle, 122 lanlgone, . . . 23 3 6 FuIIerton, ... 40 Dean Bank, . . 33 1 7 Glenduff-hill, . . 49 Bargainsholm, . . 26 Locbwoods, . . 144 Brounshill, ' . . 14 Funds mortified to the Col- Fbddochin, . . . 66 13 4 lege, . . . 133 6 8 Kailyard, ... 67 6 8 Breadiesholm, . 183 3 4 Diuidyvan, . . . J 40 MainhiU, . . 106 3 8 Piton*8 WeUs, . 28 Natural children 9 per annum ; bachelors, 46 ; old maids, 120« There are 15 or 16 families in the parish of what may be term- ed independent fortune, although many or most of them are still connected with trade. The population are mostly connected with the iron and coal trade. A great many Irish are everywhere to be found. Language. — The true Lowlanders in this district speak with great plainness the patois of the country, but they have a few ex- pressions scarcely intelligible to their neighbours. For example, the word infidel is considered as synonymous with idiot ; and when 656 LANARKSHIRK. a man says, " Do you think I am an infidel?" a fcequent interro- gatory among the handicrafts, he merely means he is no fool, but knows what he is about. The no less common expression, *< will you never deval ?' merely means, will you never give over. In such a concourse of strangers as now prevails here, there are many doubtrul or unintelligible characters. These are uniformly termed <^ nomalistic characters/' Compellment is also a common word for forcing or compelling one against bis will, and combustibles is most erroneously applied to the filthy accumulations of animal, ve- getable, and earthy matters in ditches and covered drains, which carry away the refuse from their dwell ingsw There is now little or no poaching, and no smuggling. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish of Old Monkland greatly excels the New Monkland in fertility of soil, and in salu];>rity of climate. In- deed, the soil here is in all respects very superior to the soil above the coal-fields in other parts of the country. The land very seldom attains any very considerable elevation, and in most in- stances it is level, and generally slopes with a gentle declivity to the Clyde. The principal uncultivated places are Gartgill moss, Lochwood, Drumpellier, and Coatsmuir or Muiryhall, in all about 1500 acres. Towards the north, however, where the coal crops out, the peat mosses come in in great abundance. The arable soil in the parish is of three kinds. That along the banks of the Clyde and Calder is a strong clay, but, from high cultivation in many places, now resembles a good loam. This soil produces luxuriant crops of grain, particularly of wheat, and yields sometimes from 12 to 16 bolls per acre. The middle of the parish is a light sand, affording excellent crops of oats and potatoes. Towards- the north, as already stated, are extensive tracts of moss. The farmers in this district have peculiar facilities, for procuring lim and manure by the canal and railways. In former times, the or dinary rotation of crops was to turn up before oats or peas ; then summer- fallow and wheat ; then peas and beans ; and then oats and grass seeds. About the west end of the parish there is no a rotation of four years, viz. potatoes, wheat, hay, and oats. Som pasture a year or two between the hay and oats, or have turnip instead of potatoes. Turnips yield from 25 to 30 tons per acre ^ 30 tons is the average, but 40 are often obtained ; potatoes bolls per acre, or even 7 pecks per fall, which is at the rate of 7 bolls per acre. In other parts of the parish, as about Gartsherrie^ OLD MONK LAND. 657 the rotation is, 1. oats, sometimes two crops; 2. potatoes; 8. wheat; 4. hay; 5. pasture; 6. pasture. Wheat here averages 8 bolls per acre, but is often as high as 12 ; oats 6 bolls; pota- toes 40 to 50 on best lands ; hay 150 stones per acre. The ave- rage rental of the land throughout the parish is L. 2, 5s., much of it is below this, and many acres let much higher. There are about 200 acres of undivided common. The parish is very well wooded, and may have 1200 acres in plantation. The cattle here are of a very superior sort; the cows mostly of the Ayrshire breed, and the horses of the Clydesdale breed. Perhaps no parish in Scotland has taken more first prizes at the great cattle-shows in various parts of the country. The breeders here have repeatedly taken first premiums from the Highland So- cieties' shows, and others, for mares, stallions, bulls, cows, &c Mr Bowman and Mr Drew have been deservedly often rewarded for their great skill ana perseverance in rearing the best sorts of stock. Mr Baird of High-cross, near Old Monkland Kirk, is one of the ablest and most enterprising of those meritorious individuals to whom the agricultural interests of this district are so highly indebt- ed. Mr Cairn and Mr Finlay have also stocks of a very superior order. Considerable improvements are everywhere carrying on in the reclaiming of waste lands. Mr Johnstone of Gartcloss has been a very successful improver of moss, and has made, many successful experiments on the Gartcloss moss. His method is, 1. to drain; 2. to dig; 3. to put on earth on the surface; 4. ma- nure. The drains are what are here termed ffoats^ i. e. deep ditches about six yards apart. The digging costs L. 4 per acre, putting on the clay, L. 6, draining, L. 4. Perhaps, generally speaking, it will take from L. 20 to L. 24 to put an acre in crop. About 20 tons of Glasgow dung at 5s. or 6s. per ton are requir- ed, but 15 bolls of oats have been obtained from an acre of moss thus reclaimed. The usual duration of leases is nineteen years. The farm-houses are generally in good condition. Flax was formerly much sown in the parish, but at present only Very partially. The lintseed was generally sown on ground ^ell manured with dung or lime, after one crop had been taken from it The time of sowing is April, and it is ready for pulling ^bout the 1st of August. Nine women at lOd. per day will pull an ^kCTOj or about 16 stones. Thirty or forty years ago, this was a pro- fitable way of procuring a return to the farmer, one individual having l^een known to get L. 240 per annum for 30 acres. One of the prin- 658 LANARKSHIRE. cipal causes of the high degree of cultivation into which this parish has been brought is its vicinity to the city of Glasgow. When a merchant or trader has made a little money, he purchases a piece of land, builds an elegant villa, and improves his property at the dearest rate. The parish is also greatly indebted to a patriotic and extremely well conducted and successful agricultural associa- tion, the *^ Old Monkland, Bothwell, Barony, and Cadder Farm- ing Society." This institution was set on foot about ten years ago, under the name of the *^ New Farming Society ;^' and the first premium -was awarded to Mr Robert Law, 26th February 1830. At the last ploughing match, 15th February 1839, on Mr Baird's farm at High-cross, 28 ploughs started, and various prizes were awarded to the successful competitors. Among one of the pre- miums was 1500 drain tiles. The whole parish is divided into 67 ploughgates. The rate of labour in Old Monkland, as proved to the trustees of a late meeting of heritors, was as follows : eight hours labour for an able man, and able horse, and proper cart, 6s. per day. - Wages for a labourer ten hours, 2s. per day. The total gross produce from land, including the portion for landlord, tenant, and for working the ground, is about L. 86,000, the houses about L. 4000. The parish is generally well fenced with thorn hedges. Trees of all sorts thrive well, but the Scotch fir does not stand the smoke, which seems to fill up its pores. No species of fir or pine en- dures the smoke from the collieries, and even furnaces for a length of time. Hard-wood, however, suffers but little from it. Manufactures, — The great, the all-engrossing manufacture of this parish is the iron trade. Out of the eighty-eight furnaces for the manufacture of iron, which at pres'ent exist in Scotland, sixty- five are in this parish, or in its immediate neighbourhood. The furnaces now in operation in the parish are,— Names of Works. 1. Gartsherrie, 2. Dundyvan, 3. Monldand) 4. Clyde, d. Summerleey 6. Carnbroe, 7. Calder, This last is on an elbow of Bothwell parish, and Monkland iron- works are upon its borders, but both are intimately connected with the parish of Old Monkland. There were, at the time when this estimate was taken, thirty-four furnaces in blast, but by the time this account meets the public there will be many more. Supposing Owners. . In blast. Out of blast. n ..J' Contem Building. „,^^ W. Baird and Co. 7 „ 1 - 6 Dunlop and Co. 5 • 1 4 Monkland Iron Co. 5 • - James Dunlop, 4 . 1 4 Wilsons and Co. 5 • - - 2 Alison and Co. 2 • 2 - 2 W. Diion and Co. 6 . - OLD MONIJLAND. 659 each of the thirty-four fiirnaces to yield 100 tons per week, the an- nual produce will be 176,800 tons per annum. For producing a ton of iron, 3 tons of coals, and from 5 to 6 cwt. of lime are re- quired. Allowing 3 tons of coals as above for the manufacture of one ton of iron, the thirty-four furnaces now in blast will alone consume 530,400 tons of coal per annum, and at least 884,000 cwts. of lime. These iron-works alone consume an equal amount of coals in a year, as the city of Glasgow, including the different manufactories and public works, and more lime than is consumed by all the farmers in the county of Lanark. In 1 806, the produce of pig-iron throughout the whole county of Lanark was only from 9000 to 10,000 tons per annum, and the coals consumed about 130,000 tons. In the beginning of 1794, the produce of pig iron was only 3600 tons, by which 36,000 tons of coals were con- sumed. The state of the iron trade at these several periods will stand thus, — in Years. Tons of pig iron produced. Tons of coals consumed. 1794, - 3,600 - 86,000 1806, - 9,000 - 130,000 1839, - 176,800 - 530,400 Several of the iron companies in this parish are directing their attention to the manufacture of bar iron. The Monkland Com- pany are procuring mills and forges capable of producing 220 or 230 tons of malleable iron per week ; and the Dundy van Company are also making suitable preparations for the same purpose, on a still more extensive scale. The steam-engines employed at seve- ral of the above works are very powerful. At Gartsherrie, there ^re two engines, the one has a steam-cylinder, 45 inches diame- ter, and an air-cylinder, 80 inches. The second engine has a steam-cyUnder, 48 inches, and air-cylinder, 90 inches diameter. -At Dundy van, the steam-cylinder of the engine is 45 inches, and tlie air-cylinder, 90 inches in diameter. At Monkland, the steam- Ci^linder is 42 inches ; the air- cylinder, 77. At Clyde Iron-works, tlhe steam-cylinder is 40 inches, the air-cylinder, 80. At Sum- ^:nerlee, the steam- cylinder is 48 inches, the air-cylinder, 93. At C2alder, there are two engines, one of 52, and another of 40 horse- 5>ower. At Gartsherrie, the air-vessels substituted for the water- t^ressure or regulator are of enormous size. The largest is 11 ^f^et diameter, and 43 feet high, and has a capacity within of 4000 ^cjuare feet; the lesser is 10 feet diameter, and 40 feet high, and ^^ontains an area of 3000 square feet. The whole of these iron- G60 LANARKSHIRE. works are in full blast for seven days in the week, except Gart- sherrie and Summerlee, where no work is done on Sabbath. The loss of so many days in the year might, at first sight, seem to be a great sacrifice to the respectable and conscientious proprietors of these works, but in reality it is not. The men work with more spirit and effect through the week, with the knowledge of a day's interval from labour before them, and the moral habits are ad- vanced so as to render all concerned better servants, and more va« luable members of society. Where this boon is granted, the pro- prietors also get their choice of the best hands ; indeed, where steady men are not employed, this boon, for obvious reasons, can- not be granted. One of the great causes of the unprecedented advancement of the iron trade in this district is the abundant command of the black- band of ironstone, united to the no less important introduction of the heated air-blast. Without the black-band, the furnaces could not produce the same quantity of iron in the same time, and at the same cost, and by the substitution of heated for cold air, in keeping up the blast, the saving of coal or fuel has been also very great The progress of this, like the progress of some other great discoveries, is somewhat obscure, and has not as yet been sufficiently investigated, or fairly and fully set before the public. In the history of the hot blast, as applied to the smelting of iron, as in the history of the steam-engine, the merit does not ex- clusively belong to one individual, but was the result of varied skill and varied application. A digest of the actual progress of this in- vention, which can be attested by documents and abundance of parole evidence, is as follows : 1. Mr Sadler, chemist to the Admiralty, was the first to notice the effects of heated air, and describes fully ^* a furnace for extri- cating oxygen, and other general purposes," also " an apparatus for heating the stream of air," with ^* observations on the air-ves- sel of fire-engines, to show in what manner it may be applied to blowing engines." The treatise itself is published in Nicolson's Philosophical Journal for April 1798, and is decidedly a treatise explaining the application of heated air to furnaces. 2. Mr Stirling, one of the ministers of Kilmarnock, in Decem- ber 1816, obtained a patent for his ^^ invention of diminishing the consumption of fuel," &c. In that portion of his specification which applies to furnaces, his plan is to '^ cause it to pass through long narrow flues to the furnace." The great principle of Mr Stir- OLD MONKLAND. 661 IiDg^s patent was, that " a constant stream of heated air might be kept up by its being passed through long and narrow flues, alter- nately heated, by which a more intense heat might be produced with less expenditure of fuel. This was the first patent taken out for the application of heated air to furnaces. 3. In October 1828, James Beaumont Neilson, Esq- of Glas- gow, obtained letters-patent from His Majesty, for an improved apph'cation of air, to produce heat in furnaces, where bellows or other blowing apparatus are required. In this patent, it was ex- pressly specified, that " the blast or current of air so produced is to be passed from the bellows or blowing apparatus into an air-vessel or receptacle, made sufficiently strong to endure the blast, and through and from that vessel or receptacle, by means of a tube, pipe, or aperture, into the fire, forge, or furnace," This application of Mr Neilson's, although not a new principle, has been deservedly highly prized by all who understand it, and he has the merit of being the first to apply heated air, especially, to the fusion of iron. The great defect of Mr Neilson's apparatus was, that it did not long resist the united action of heat and oxygen, and did not admit of the air being heated above 200^ Fahrenheit* 4. Mr Dixon of the Calder Iron-works has the merit of hav- ing been the first to discover that, with heated air, common pit-coal could be used instead of coke. He also substituted for Mr Neil- son's apparatus, a long range of pipe, through which the air was driven, and to which, surrounded by a flue, the heat was applied. 5. The Messieurs Baird of Gartsherrie found that the insertion of a pipe of less diameter, closed at the end, for receiving the blast within the main one, so as to force the air through the space left betwixt the circular surface of the pipe, so introduced, and the in- ner surface of the main pipe to which the flame was applied, pro- duced a more intense and equal heat ; and therefore, the result to which they arrived was, that the benefit of the heated air in the smelting process could only be obtained by a method the reverse of that which had been recommended by Mr Neilson ; that is to say, by diminishing the space for the passage of the air, where heat was to be applied, instead of increasing the quantity of air, by having a large vessel or receptacle for that purpose. 6. In the last stage of this great and important discovery, the merit is also unquestionably due to the Messrs Baird, of having been the first to lead the heated air through a series of branch- LANARK. . U U r. 66i LANARKSHIRE. pipes, which][diverge from the main or supply-pipes by which the air is transmitted from a large air-receiver, alluded to in a former page. These tubes are connected with the main-pipes leading from the air-receiver, and are cased in brick-work, and heated from below. The air passes through these tubes, which are heated so as to be red hot, and enters into the smelting furnace at a tempe- rature from 600^ to 612^ Fahrenheit. This last and great im- provement is now universally adopted, and it is to the Meisn Baird, especially to James Baird, Esq. of Gartsherrie, that we are indebted for an invention as new and important in the histoiy of heated air, as Watt's invention was in the history of the steam-en- gine. The Messrs Baird were clearly entitled to a patent had thej thought fit to apply for it, but these gentlemen have generouslj sacrificed self-emolument, and that in various ways, greatly to thdr own loss. The following tables will give some idea of the comparative ad- vantages and progressive saving accomplished by this great disco- very. In 1829, when combustion was produced by cold air, there was required : Ton. Cwt Ton. Cwt- Coal. 1. For fusion, 3 tons of coke, corresponding with 6 13 2. For the blowing engine, - - 10 7 13 Limestone, ...... QlOi In furnaces blown with air heated at 450% and fusion being produced by coke, the results were — Ton. Cwt. Ton. Coal. 1 . For fusion, 1 ton 18 cwt. of coke, corresponding with 4 6 2. For hot air apparatus, - - - 5 3. For blowing machine, - - - 7 4 18 Limestone, ...... 09 With air heated at 612 the results are — Ton. Cwt Ton. CwP^ Coal. 1. For fusion, - - 2 2. For hot air apparatus, - • 8 3. For blowing engine, - - Oil 2 19 Limestone, - . . . 7 It appears that the introduction of hot air into furnaces has been^ attended with great saving ; 1. by admitting of the use of raw coal J instead of coke ; 2. the saving of fuel used in smeltine^ is in proper- - tion to the temperature to which the air is raised ; 3. hot air has in- - creased the make of the furnaces by more than one-third, and has of course saved much expense in the article of labour ; 4. one steam-engine can blow at least four blast furnaces^instead of three. OLD MONKLAND. 663 It was long doubted whether iron made with raw bituminous coal and heated air would answer for malleable iron. Several ex- periments have lately been made to this effect, which have been attended with the most satisfactory results. Messrs Beecroft, Butler, and Co., at their works at Kirkstall, near Leeds, lately found that 4 cwt. 2 qrs. of Scotch pig iron yielded by the process ')f boiling instead of puddling, blooms of 4 cwt. 1 qr. 8 lbs. each, snowing only the comparative trifling waste of 20 lbs. in a charge of 4 cwt. 2 qrs., and the quality of iron was found to be equal at least to any made from cold air. The castings take place at these works every twelve hours. The iron obtained is generally a mixture of No. 1 and No. 2. The average produce of the raw ironstone varies from 22 to 84 per cent ; when calcined it varies from 40 to 50 per cent. ; the average is 44, at from 8s. 6d. to 9s. per ton. On an average, the manufacture of a ton of pig iron requires 4856 lbs. of coal, or 2 tons 8| cwt The hot air apparatus consumes about 8 cwt. to a ton, which raises the total quantity to 2 tons 16^ cwts., or about 2| tons to the ton of pig iron. Each furnace is fully charged twice in the twenty- four hours. Each single charge, at an average, requires about 660 lbs. of coal, 520 lbs. of calcined iron ore, and 100 lbs. of lime- stone; t. e. 154 such charges produce about 17 tons 15 cwt. or 18 tons 17 cwt in twenty-four hours. As ordinary tuyers would not resist the high temperature to which they are exposed, water tuyers have been substituted similar to those used in refineries. The temperature at the place where the tuyer enters the furnace is a brilliant white heat, and the flame which escapes from the tunnel- head is of a bright red, whilst that of the old furnaces supplied by coke and blown with cold air is of a yellowish hue. The pressure of the blast upon the iron receiver is, on an average, about 2^ lbs. According to the dimensions of the blowing cylinder, the quantity of blast was formerly 2827 cubic feet per minute for each furnace when blown by cold air, and is now only 2120 cubic feet The following tables will prove interesting : Furnaces blown by cold air. T. C. T. C. 1. Coal for fusion. 8 tons coke correspond to 6 15 For blowing engine, .10 7 15 For beating apparatus. 2. Calcined Ore 8523 lbs. Avenge 57 per cent . 1 15 S. Limeatone, 10^ Furnaces blown by beated air. % T. C. T. C. Raw coal, 2 »> M • 11 » » • • 8 2 19 8780 lbs. 56 per cent 1 18 704 lbs. 7 G64 LANARKSHIRE. The following table will show the value of the materials used by the two processes ; Materials used. With cold air. With hot air. ton. cwt. L. s. d. ton. cwt* L. s. d Coal for fusion at 5s. per ton, . 6 1«S 1 13 3 2 10 Fortheblowingniachineatls.8d.perton,;2 036 Oil 00 11 For beating apparatus, 00000 08008 Calcined ore, 12s. per ton, . 115 110 1 18 129 Limestone at 76. . . . 10 036 00086 Labour, lOs. . . . 10 10 General cbarge8^interest of cdpital, 6s. 060 060 L.3 17 3 L.2 18 10 The total cost of erecting a heating apparatus is estimated at about L. 130, 16s. for each blast furnace, thus : — Brick work, L. 20 ; iron work for furnace, L.12; cast iron pipes, L.33, 8s. V. — Parochial Economy. Nearly the whole population, with the exception of those cod- nected with rural operations, and a few weavers and other neces- Fary tradesmen, are absorbed in the coal and iron trade. There is no great town in the parish, but many of the villages are in- creasing daily, and, indeed, the centre of the parish, about Long^ lone and Coatbridge, is one large village. In 1794, the number of colliers, bearers, and others connected with that business in the parish was at FuUarton, 150; Barrachnie, &c. 75; Mr Stir- ling's, 160; Captain Christie's, 50; total, 435. At present the number employed is about 3000. Market^ Totvti, c^t. — The nearest market-town is Airdrie,in New Monkland, on the immediate confines of the parish. The com- munications in all directions by roads, railways, and the canal, are such as might be expected in a great commercial district. There are in the parish forty-four miles of roads, and ten miles of turnpike. About L.500per annum is raised for road-money, but in some places, from the great increase of carting from the collieries to the canal and railways, the parish roads are very bad. Four great railways pass through this parish, or enter into it by immediate junctions or con- nections, viz. the Monkland and Kirkintilloch, the Ballochnie, the Garnkirk and Glasgow, and Wishawand Coltness. Besides these, the Monkland and Glasgow Canal extends through almost the entire length of the parish. The revenue of the canal may be L.15,000 per annum, and that of the railways L.20,000. Twenty yearsago, there was no public conveyance between this and Glasgow. A track-boat was put upon the canal about that time. The Gam- kirk Railway Company run a train of carriages by steam four times a day between Glasgow and Airdrie; open carriages, 8d., close OLD MONKLAND. C65 carriages, Is. The canal boat runs twice a day; fares, 4d. steer- age, 6d. cabin. The steam trains, including stoppages, go in an hour, the canal boats in two hours — the distance by both is about ten miles. The difference is 4d. per hour. Some take the cheaper, to save money, but the greater number the dearer, to save time. The canal rates have been reduced since the introduction of rail- ways nearly one-third, and yet the revenue is in a thriving condi- tion. In 1831, when the last population list was taken up, the passengers, goods, &c. were as follows : Tons coul dross. Tons iron. Ions sundries. Total tons. Amount. Sheepford tonnage, I^ttsi^boat passengers, ToU-bar, Rents, 201,607 • • » m i • 8,7-29 • • 9 • 12,138 • • • • 222,474 10,156 25,129 • • L.12,191 246 456 427 107 7 4 13 7 15 8 4 4 Total, L. 13,429 7 4 Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated near the centre of the parish, (which is much longer than broad,) rather to the west side, where it is only 400 or 500 yards from the confines of the parish of Both well. It was buiU in 1790, by Mr Robert Watson, at the very moderate charge of L. 500. It is seated for 894: add 8 seats to the corner of Rosehall galleries, 902 Eight pounds Scots entitles to one sitting. The whole scats are in the possession of thirty-six individuals. The estates of Gartsherrie and Garturk, &c. have 138 seats; Rosehall, See 102; Carmyle, &c. 88; Drumpellier, Faskin, &c. 70; Breadiesholm, 58; Daldowie, 42, &c. There are two parishes^ jHoad spiritualia^ viz. Crossbill and Gartsherrie. The new churci^ at Crossbill was the first in Scotland on the Church Extension principle. The church contains about 600, and has no galleries, owing to the walls being too low. This parish is bounded on the south by the turnpike road from Shotts to Glasgow ; on the west, by the Barony parish of Glasgow; on the north, by the parish of Cadder ; and on the east, by the Old Monkland parish road leading from Lusshill to Crossbill, firom Crossbill to nearly opposite Breadiesholm gate, thence by the parish road, which leads past the west of Commonhead, thence [n a straight line to the Bishop Loch, a little to the east of Loch- lide farm-house, including all the houses and families within said district, comprising a population of 2600. The church at Gartsherrie is a very elegant fabric. It contains 1600 sittings. It is 69 feet long and 49 feet wide, besides a large obby and stairs. The height is 34 feet, the tower 136 feet, with 666 LANARKSHIRE. spire at west end. The estimated expense is L.S800. The bell was cast by Mr Burgess, brassfounder, Glasgow. It cost Is. 4d. per lb., in all L. 180. This parish is bounded on the east and north, by the parishes of New Monkland and Cadder ; on the west by the road leading from Chryston to Cuilhill colliery; on the south, by the boundary line between the estates of Grartsherrieand Drumpellier, to the point where that line joins the road leading from Blair Bridge to Gartsherrie; from that point by the foresaid road leading from Gartsherrie to Blair Bridge ; afterwards by the road leading from Merriston Bridge to the new Edinburgh road; by the new Edinburgh road to the point where it crosses the Gart- sherrie Burn ; and by the Gartsherrie Burn and Airdrie side Bum to Sheepford Lock, including a population of 3388 seals. The two rows of houses between the old and new Edinbaigh roads still belong to the original parish. The minister has a free house and a bond for L. 150 per annum. In the six districts included under the population estimates the comparative number of churchmen and of those belonging toother denominations is as follows : 1. District, 2. Do. 8. Dp. 4. Do. 5. Do. 6. Do. 6875 3457 As No. 3 of the population list is awanting, this only contains a portion of the population. The tithes of this parish, together with the grassums at giving leases, belong to the College of Glasgow. 1. Gross amount of teinds belonging to the College : B. F. P. L. L. 8. d. Meal, - 173 3 2 - 139 16 6 Bear, - 18 - 16 19 7 Money, - . 546 9 6 Value thereof, L. 703 5 7 2. Applied to ministers' stipends and communion elements o^ of the gross College teinds : B. F. P. L. L. 8. d. Meal, - 136 109 7 4 Barley, - 136 - 146 7 Money, - 8 6 8 Churchmen. Other denomimtiooi. 764 1209 927 208 581 212 1413 402 1357 550 1833 876 Value thereof, L.263 14 7 a Value of the unappropriated College teinds, L.4d9, lis. OLD MONKLAND. 667 Education, — There is one parochial school, and three branch schools, but one of these is at present vacant. The instruction given at these schools consists of English reading, writing, arith- metic, grammar, geography, Latin, and Greek ; to which might be conveniently added, practical mathematics, land-surveying, and composition. The salary of the parish schoolmaster is L.3], and that of each of the others, L.6, 15s. lid. per annum. The amount of school-fees cannot be given, as no returns were received from the teachers. The other emoluments of the parish schoolmaster are derived from the office of session-clerk ; but the amount is not ascertained* At the schools not parochial, English reading, gram- mar, vrriting, arithmetic, and book-keeping are taught, and at some geography, history, mathematics, and Latin. Children taught to read under five years of age, males, 44; females, 71 ; total, 115. From five to fifteen, males, 576; females, 448; to- tal, 1024. To write from five to fifteen, males, 204 ; females, 114; total, 318. Attending school at Broomhouse, 24; Bailie- ston, 45 to 60; Swinton, 36; Old Woman Merristou, 20 both sexes; sewing-school. Camp-houses, 14. Library. — There is a library at Longlone, containing about 500 volumes. Poor. — The sum of Ij.212, 7s. 3d. is paid for the poor per an- num by fifty-three heritors. This sum is not sufficient ; but a voluntary contribution is raised as follows, by proprietors and te- nants of minerals, who bind themselves only for twelve months. Gfoenl Pye Douglas, L.7 T. Johnston, for Gartclon, L.2 Drumpcllier, for coUieries, &c. 25 WiUiam Young, for CairnhiU, 5 William Baird and Co. . 17 10 Wilson and Co. Summerlee, 10 WiUiam Dixon, Calder, . 15 James Frew and Co. . 2 Jamsi Dunlop, Clyde, . 12 10 Kirkintilloch Railway Co. .500 G. M. Nisbet, CaimhUl, .200 Monkland Canal Co. . 000 W. F. Campbell, WdodbaU, 3 MiUar and Eadie, . 7 Messrs Murry and Buttrey, 6 10 Wr. M* A dam, Easter House, 3 William Hosier, Wbifflat, .600 Tenants of Minerals, 200 Jsmes Merry, for Rhiny, .500 Ja. Gemmel, for Netherhouse, 2 10 L.ie8 Alehouses. — The number of alehouses is 110. MlSCELLAI^EOUS OBSERVATIONS. The population of this parish is at present advancmg at an amazing rate, and this prosperity is entirely owing to the coal and iron trade, stimulated by the discovery of the black band of ironstone, and the method of fusing iron by the hot blast. New villages are springing up almost every month, and it is quite im- possible to keep pace with the march of prosperity, and the in- crease of the population. February 1840. PARISH OF GOVAN. PRESBYTERY OF GLASGOW, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYl. THE REV. M, LfilSHMAN, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — According to Lesly, the parish of Govan obtained its name from the excellence of its ale, which, in his days, was fam- ed over the whole of Scotland. This beverage, (wi^ixxpA«»>* barley-wine,) he tells us, was made without hops, and after being kept for about seven years, was found, in its taste and colour, to be so like Malvoisie ( Malveticum vinum^) as to be mistaken fre- quently for this wine.f Lesly supposed, therefore, it would appeal^ though he does not say this, that the name of the parish was com- pounded of the two Saxon words god win^ (good wine)4 Extent and Boundaries. — The parish, quoad civilian is about six miles long, and near the centre, where it is widest, about three miles broad. It is bounded by Renfrew on the west ; New Kil- patrick, Barony, and Glasgow on the north ; Barony, Gorbals, and Rutherglen on the east ; and by Cathcart, Eastwood, and the Abbey parish of Paisley on the south. It lies chiefly in Lanark- shire, and contains about ten square miles. The lands of Hagg% Titwood, and Shields, belonging to Sir John Maxwell, are situat- ed in the county of Renfrew. Hamilton of Wishaw says,§that these lands were disjoined from the sheriffdom of Lanark, and an- • Herod, lib. ii. cap. 77. Boethius, when describing " the maneris and k*®"!! of our auld fadcris,** says of thera, *^ the common drink that thay usit was syU'^ (Hist. Scot. Introd. Desc. Cap. zyL Bellendcn^s translation.) ** Come ho8te«i says Piscatory " give us some of your best "barley vine, the good liquor that ow' "*" nest forefathers did use to drink of.** Isaac Walton's Complete Angler, Part !• ^P' v., first published in 1653. -f- Region, et Insul. Scotis Description loanne Lesl£eo» Episcopo Roaseosi, pp> ^i 10. Romse, 1578. Reprinted, 1675. X This etymology, whatever may be thought of it in other respects, is at least as good Bin another which has been hazarded, and with which we are afraid the Trustees on the river Clyde will be greatly shocked. As this river intersects the parish, it has been imagined, that the name Govan may have been derived from gamhanf which in Gaelic is pronounced, we are informed, guvau, and signifies a ditch. Chalmers's Ca- ledonia, Vol iii. p. 674. § Description of the SheriflTdom of Lanark and Renfrew, p. 29. Printed by the Maitland Club, 1831. GOVAN. 669 nexed to the*sheriffdom of Renfrew, " for the conveniencie of Sir Geoige Maxwell," who died in 1677. But the original charter granted to John Maxwell of PoUok by the Archbishop of Glas- gow, dated 8th June 1581, describes the lands in question (terras de Haggis, terras de Govan-Schiellis, terras de Titwood,) to be in the barony and regality of Glasgow, and in the county of Renfrew. Part of Crossbill, and nearly the whole of Polmadie, are likewise comprehended in the county of Renfrew. Topographical Appearances, — The figure of the parish, if we in- clude along with it the .^parish of Gorbals, which was formerly connected with Govan, is not unlike that of England. In the one case, as well as in the other, when looking at their respective maps, 2^&nciful person will at once recognize the dolphin's head and tail. In the centre of the parish, there is a richly cultivated plain, which is ddrted on both sides by ground slightly elevated, and present- ing a soft undulating appearance. The parish is studded with th^ ^llas of the opulent merchants of Glasgow, and the fields are in general divided, as in the most beautiful parts of England, by hedge-rows, which, with their *^ verdant screen,"* add both to the warmth and to the picturesque beauty of the country. Meteorology and Hydrography.* — The prevalent winds are from the south-west. This fact is very evident from the general incli- nation of the trees to the north-east, and from the longest and strongest roots being sent out in an opposite direction to support them. This is one of the many wise provisions of nature. It has been noticed, therefore, that, though the centre of gravity is thrown towards the north-east, more trees are torn up by violent winds, when these blow from that point than when they blow from any other."f- The temperature of the lower districts of the parish, in consequence of their sheltered situation, and the dryness of the soil, is comparatively mild and genial. Invalids and strangers have often remarked this. The Clyde, joined by the Kelvin, di- vides the parish near its centre. Before the waters of these two rivers meet, the Clyde, fqr about three miles, proceeds along the north side of the parish, separating it from Glasgow, while the Kelvin, for more than two miles, winds its way along the eastern boundary. It would seem that the Kelvin formerly joined the Clyde above the present ferry-house, which stands on the east bank of the Kelvin ; or perhaps the ground, on which the ferry- • Soott'f Marmion. t Ntismith's Agriculture of Clydesdale, p. 3. 670 LANARKSHIRE. house or Point House, as it is called, is built, may originally hate been a delta. We cannot, in any other way, account for the fact, that this is the only part of the parish of Govan which is found east of the Kelvin. In an old legal instrument in the Glasgow Chartu- larv, " the islands between Govan and Partick" are mentioned.* There are no such islands now. In Blaeu's map of the count; of Renfrew, however, which was published at Amsterdam in 1662, " Whyt Inch," and part of the property now called Meadowside, appear as islands. These may have been the islands referred to in the instrument. At the same time, it is not improbable tbtt another island, at the mouth of the Kelvin, may also have been one of them, and that it may have been deprived of its insular form by being connected with the main-land, at a still earlier period tbao the others. The shallowness of the Clyde not many yean ago will almost appear incredible to those who now see ships of 600 tons burthen, and drawing 16 or 17 feet of water, proceeding ma- jestically up that river, and depositing, in the store-houses of Glaa- gow, the cargoes which they bring from the most remote parts of the world. At the mouth of the Kelvin, in 1770, according to a survey made by the celebrated James Watt, the depth was only 3 feet 8 inches at high water, and 1 foot 6 inches at low water.f Previous to this time, the Clyde was not navigable for vessels of more than 30 tons burthen, and in summer even such small craft were often stopped by the shallowness of the river. % On the i26th of May 1660, Patrick Bryce, tacksman of the "coal heugb"in Gorbals, complained to the magistrates of Glasgow, that he could not get his coals loaded at the Broomielaw, owing to a scarcity of water, and that he had been obliged, on this account, to crave li- cence to lead them through the lands of Sir George Maxwell of Nether Pollock, for the purpose of loading them " neare to Meikle Govane."§ There were formerly three fords in the lower part of the parish, by which the Clyde might usually be crossed with per- fect safety. One of these, which was near Braehead, was called the Marline ford. There was another near the present ferry; and the third, was situated at the east end of the village of Go- van. The most remarkable height on record to which the Cly^^ has risen, in consequence of heavy rains, is thus taken notice of i^ • '* Et insulas inter Govan et Perthec." Tom. i. p. 12, MSS. in Bib. Coll. G\»^- f Clcland's Annals of Glasgow, Vol. i p. 291. * Pennant's Tour, Vol. ii. pp. 130-131. § Glasgow Burgh lieoords. GOVAN. 671 Gray's MS. ChroDicle.* << In 1454, on the 25tb and 26th of No- vember, ther wes ane right gvei s))eit in Clyde, the quilke brocht down haile housis, bernis, and millis, and put all the town of Go- rane (Govane) in ane flote, quihile thai sat on the housis/' Geology and Mineralogy. — The substrata belong to the coal formation/ and contain a considerable portion of its usual fossil re- mains. A good deal of interest was excited, about twelve or four- teen years ago, by the discovery of the roots of a number of fossil trees at Balgray, on the banks of the Kelvin. There were nearly thirty of these. They were standing close to one another, and in their natural position. But not more than two feet of the trunks were attached to the roots, and no organic remains whatever were visible in the superincumbent rock. One of those fossil roots was covered over by the proprietor to protect it from injury. It mea- sures about two feet and a-half in diameter. Another, the trunk of which measures two feet in diameter, is preserved in the Ander- sonian Museum in Glasgow. They have all the appearance of be- longing to the dicotyledonous class of plants. The upper surface of the coal measures is very generally covered with diluvial mat- ter, containing rolled stones, indicating the action of currents from the north-west Above the diluvium, there are alluvial beds of sand and finely laminated clay, in which recent marine shells have been met with. These are in general similar to such as are at pre- sent found in the Frith of Clyde. Some were lately discovered in stratified clay in Balshagry and Cartnavel, at least 80 feet above the level of the sea.f From a remote period, coals have been ex- tensively worked at the Govan collieries, at present in the posses- sion of Mr W. Dickson. These form a part of the valuable mines, known by the name of the Glasgow Coal Fields. The fol- lowing seams lie contiguous to each other. Feet. Incbet tiiiek. 1. The Mo68da]e or upper cool, 4 8 2. Rough ell, a. Rough main, 4. Humph, 5. Splint ell, 6. Splint main, 7. Sour-milk, . . There are other seams, at a greater depth, which will no doubt * Chalmers*! Caledonia, Vol. iii. p. 567. f Mr Smith of Jordanhill, who has paid much attention to this deposit, has form- ed a catalogue of these shells, containing about 150 species. Nearly a tenth part of fhfsc ia not known to eiist in the present seas. 3 6 4 2 6 3 9 7 2 6 672 LANAllKSillUK. be worked when those seven are exhausted. ♦ The dip or incli* nation of the coal, at Jordanhill and Cartnavel, on the north side of the Clyde, is to the north-west. But at Bellahoustown, on the south side of the river, where a pit has been recently sunk to the depth of 19^ fathoms, the dip is to the east and south-east In this latter pit the coal that is raised is only 19 inches thick, but 8 inches of that are parrot or cannelcoal, which sells at a high price for the purpose of being converted into gas. At Jordanhill and Cartnavel, in a depth of not more than 50 fathoms from the surface, there are no fewer than sixteen beds of coal, which ?ary in thickness from 3 inches to 2 feet. Two of these are worked. One contains about 7 inches of gas coal of the finest quality; the other is considered a very good household coal. Above the gas coal, there is a very valuable seam of black-band iroDStone, from between 10 to 15 inches thick, and lower down, there are several seams of that description of ironstone, which is named clay- band, ranging in thickness from 5 to V2 inches. This was proved by the late Mr Colin Dunlop to contain from between 30 to 38 per cent of iron. Zoology. — The less common birds are the goldfinch fFrinjilh carduelisj ; the golden-crested wren (Motacilla regulus) ; the buzzard ( Falco buteo) ; the grey owl (Strix ulula) ; the white owl (Strix jl(immea) ; the siskin ( Fringilla spinus) ; the teal (Anas crecca) ; the bald-coot (Fulica atra) ; the water-hen (Fulica chloropus); the kingfisher (Alcedo ispidaj ; and the star- ling fSturnus vulgaris). In the fifth volume of the last Statis- tical Account of Scotland, under the article Glasgow, a list is given of the various kinds of fish that have been found in the river and Frith of Clyde. There are much fewer salmon now caught in the Clyde than, formerly. We may form some idea of the sp- rit and industry of the fishermen of former times, and likewise °' their success, when we find it slated, that in the sixteenth cent^^?' the burgesses of Renfrew, who enjoyed the privilege of fisl*'"8 salmon on both banks of the Clyde, had often sixty boats so ^^' ployed, during the whole of the spring and summer, f Ara °'^ fisherman assutes the writer, that, fifty years ago, ten salmon W^^ caught at the different fishing stations in the parish for one * ^^^ is caught now. He attributes this falling off to the pollution ° • Account of Minerals belonging to the Corporation of Glasgow, p. 17. ^^' gow, 1836* ^ t " SexaginU piscatorias naves." LesLci Scotia DescripUo, p. 10. GOVAN. 673 the river by a busy manufacturing community ; to the disturbance given to the fish by the steam-boats ; and likewise to the formation of the dikes on both banks of the Clyde, as the drawing of the nets is in many places thereby obstructed. Porpoises have some- times appeared as far up the river as this parish. One, which was about ten feet long, was caught in a net at the Broomielaw, on the 13th of February 1793. Five others were killed at the same place in May 1801. In Carmile Dam, four miles above Glas- gow, about sixty years ago, a still more uncommon fish, a sturgeon, was killed, which measured eight feet in length. It was shown in Glasgow to the curious for two or three days. * Botany. — Along with other plants the following are found in different parts of the parish : PiDguicula vulgaris, on the north bank of the Clyde, and in the moss near Shield- ball . The Laplanders are said to use it as a rennet for milk. Iris pseudacorus, north bank of the Clyde. In Arran, its roots are employed to dye black, and in Jura, mixed with copperas, to make ink. Its seeds, roasted and ground, are an indifferent substitute for coffee. Phleum pratense, very plentiful in the meadow below Fartick. This is an excellent grass for permanent pasture, and for presenting a rich sward even among woods. Agrostb stolonifera, on the banks of the Kelvin. This is a good grass for mossy or wet land. Poa fluitans, in deserted beds of the Clyde, below Fartick. The seeds, under the name of manna-seeds, are sold in Holland and Germany, and imported into this country, as a mild nourishing food. Its herbage contains a very great quantity of saccharine matter. 'Ihe farmer might find it advantageous to cultivate this grass in situations which are frequently flooded, were he to raise parallel ridges, from which the cattle might gather it out of the water. Foa trivialis, in meadows on the banks of the Clyde. Poa pratensis, very common. Cjnosurus cristatus, in dry pastures throughout the parish. Xiolium perenne, very common. Anthoxanthum odoratum, on both banks of the Clyde. It is this grass, which smells like woodruff, (Asperula odorata), and which gives its pleasant fragrance to newly made hay. t' ___^ * Denbolro*s History of Glasgow, pp. 97, 428, third edition. i* These grasses are not mentioned on account of their rarity, but merely with a view to direct attention to their characters and qualities. Moist land, that hardly maintains a green appearance, when sown only with common rye-grass and clover, would be found more productive were it sown with the following grasses, and with tlie quantities stated to the acre : One bushel of Page's perennial ryegrass ; one-half bushel o£ Aiopecurns pratcmis^ (meadow foxtail-grass) ; six pounds of Poa trivia'it ; five pounds of red clover; four pounds of white clover; and two pounds of mellow clorer. The following mixture, along with the proportions of rye-grass and clovers which have now been specified, would be found advantageous in poor dry land : one* quarter bushel of Fcaluca durinscula (hard fescue-grass) ; two pounds of Cynosurvs criaiatut ; two pounds of Anthuxanthum odoratum ; and two pounds of Poa pratensis. For the purpose of making a beautiful lawn, one-eighth bushel of Festnca ovina (sheep's fescue-grass) ; nnd two pounds of Phleum pratense^ should be substituted for the red clover and the Festuca duriuscula. These suggestions will be deemed more valuable when it is stated that they are given on the authority of Mr Murray, the in- telligent su]:erintendent of the Glasgow BoUmic Garden, to whom the writer is al- most i^holly indebted for the information contained under this head. Mr Murray says it consists with his own knowledge, that among the»^aTch woods about Dun- keld and Blair- A thole, a grass rent of lOs. to los. the acre was annually oblavw^d 674 LANARKSHIRE. Galium verum, sandy bank« of the Clyde, below Partick. The milk of the bctt Cheshire cheeses is said to be coagulated with this plant. Highlanders employ iti roots to produce a red dye. lliey boil them with the yarn, along with aome aloai, to fix the colour. Mcnyanthes trifoliata, below Partick, adjoining the Clyde. Its leaTea, used ai lea, aie represented to be a good tonic Anagallis anrensis, sandy fields below Partick. Ito flowers, which are of a beauti- ful scarlet colour, close on the approach of a* storm. Verbascum thapsu^t, north bonks of the Clyde below White Inch. Adoxa moschatellina, foot of hedge below Partick. Pyrola minor, in wood at Craigion sparingly. Muphar lutea, deserted bed of the Clyde below Partick. The flowers, from dicir smell, have obtained in England the name of brandy -bottles. Cochlearia oflScinalis, abundant on the north bank of the Clyde, below the Kelfia. Botrychium lunaria, grassy banks of the Clyde, below White>lnch. Lichen rangiferinus, in mossy ground near Shicldhall. This lichen forme the prin- cipal food of the reindeer in l^pland. 11. — Civil History. Historical Events, — After the treaty had been coDcluded which was agreed upon between the Queen Regent and the Protestant party at Leith, on the 24th of July 1559, the confederate Lords proceeded to Linlithgow, and afterwards to Stirling. They had no confidence in the promises of the Queen Regent, and ju.stly feared that her object was, with the aid of French soldiers, to de- prive them both of their civil and religious liberties. They there- fore subscribed for their mutual defence a bond, in which they pledged themselves to hold no communication with her without each others knowledge and consent, and they resolved to have a meeting with " their kin and friends upon Govan Muir,* beside Glasgow." This meeting, however, the Queen Regent artfully contrived to prevent, by writing to all suspected persons of note, as if she had been perfectly assured of their friendship and loyal- ty, under the pretext of apprising them of what was intended, and praying them to hold themselves and their retainers in readiness to assist her should their services be required. " Gouen-Mure, neireto - a hill called Langeside,"f is likewise signalized in Scottish history as the place where the army of the ill-fated Mary was defeated, after her escape from the Castle of Lochleven. Eminent Men. — Constantino, King of Cornwall, having resign- ed his crown, is represented, in the ancient chronicles of Scotland, to have come to this country, from Ireland, in the train of St Co- lumba, in the year 565, and to have founded a monastery at Govan, of which he was the first abbot. It is also said that he was buried from ground, which, previous to its being planted, did not yield Is. an acre, •»« that, in this instance, the sward consisted almost wholly of PhUum pratcrue, with » small portion of Anthoxanthum odoratum, • Knox Hist, of Ref. pn. 142. GUisg. 1831. t Balfour*s Annalcs of Scotland, Vol. i. p. 344. 4 GOVAN. 675 in his own monastery, after labouring to convert the inhabitants of Kintyre, at whose hands he received martyrdom.* Andrew Melville was the first minister of Govan after the Re- formation. In consequence of the death of the Popish incum- bent, the rectory and vicarage of Govan became vacant, during the nnnority of James VI. The nephew of Melville tells us, that the Regent Morton offered this *^ gtiid benefice, peying four-and- twentie chalder of victuall," to his uncle, who was then Principal of the University of Glasgow, on condition that he would not press upon the church his views of ecclesiastical polity ; and in the hope of ultimately gaining him over to his party, that the Regent kept the living undisposed of for nearly two years. Morton dis- covered, however, that Melville had too noble a mind to be wrought upon by a sordid consideration. He therefore conveyed the tem- poralities of the parish to the College of Glasgow, devolving upon the principal the duty of serving the cure, with a view, says his admiring and affectionate nephew, ** to demearit Mr Andro, and cause him relent from dealling against bischopes ; but God keepit his awin servant in uprightnes and treuthe in the middis of manie beavie tentationes." f Andrew Melville, along with some other ministers, and the magistrates of Glasgow, has been charged with having formed a deliberate design to demolish the cathedral, as a monument of idolatry, and for the purpose of obtaining materials with which to build other smaller churches. And the barbarous intention, it is affirmed, was frustrated by the resolute conduct alone of the craftsmen of the city. This story is not well authen« ticated. There is no reference to it in the burgh records ; nor is it once alluded to in the records of the privy-council, before whom, it is said, the chief actors in the ** little disturbance" were cited to appear. It rests solely upon the authority of Archbishop Spots- wood, whose prejudices may have rendered him credulous, and who is known in other instances to have shown no indisposition to give an unfavourable view of the conduct of the men with whom, at one period of his life, he had appeared zealously to co-operate.J * Forduni Scotichron. Tom. i. p. 190. Eztracta e Chron. Soot. pp. 83-34, M& in Bib. Coll. Glasg. t James Melville** Diary, p. 42. I In consequence of an application for information as to this point to Thomas Thomson, Esq. Deputy* Clerk Register, that gentleman, with his usual courtesy, ioforms me that he has discoTcred nothing whatever on the subject of Spotswood's ** little disturbance" in the records of the privy-council of that period. With regard to the weight that ought to be attached in this case to the unsupported testimony of Spotswood, Dr M^Crie has pointed out, in the history which the archbishop wrote. 676 LANAnKSHlHE. What Middleton says of the transaction is evidently borrowed from Spotswood. In a comparatively modern publication* it is stilted that the " cathedral was preserved at the Reformation from a rab- ble that came to destroy it from the country, by the townsmen, who, though zealous reformers, listened to the judicious remonstrances of the (;hief magistrate : M am for pulling down the High Church/ said he, ^ but not till we have first built a new one/'' This is another version of the affair. According to Spotswood, it was not a rabble from the country, but the magistrates themselves, who were prevented from destroying the cathedral, when, by tuck of drum, they had collected workmen for the purpose. There must, however, have been, one would think, some foundatioo for the story. On the 7th of March 1587, " The commissioneris appoyntit be ye kingis maiestie anet yair jugemetis to be gevin for reparation of ye hie kirk, and haill brethrene of ye kirk and ses- sioun of Glasgw thinkis gud yat ye lache stepill*f- be tane down to repair ye mason work in ye said kirk, and bell and knok be trans- portit to ye hiche stepill, and yat the kirk haif ane quoynzie left at ye stepill foresaid for relief yairof.'*J Dr M'Crie, who found this minute quoted, but not quite correctly, in Wodrow's MS. Life of Mr David Weemes, asks with characteristic acuteness, if this could be the order which occasioned the riot referred to by Spotswood ? " If so," he says, § *' it happened ten years after Melville left Glasgow/* What strengthens the conjecture of Dr M'Crie is the fact, that the "lache stepill" or western tower was actually not taken down, and that on the 5th of February 1589, (OS.) the session ordered it to be inspected, "and ye decayt places yairin to be sichtit and repairit." It is also worthy of no- tice, that, on the 25th of April 1588, the session appointed certain various instances of misrepresentation where Melville is concerned. And in one of the original letters prefixed to Dr Burns's edition of the " History of the Suffering* of the Church of Scotland,*' we find Wodrow (p. xxi.) expressing a wish that ***!* unlucky turns that Spottiswood gives to matters, and the facts which, asacoi»p|**J party man, he suppresseth, were to be taken notice of, and his disingenuity exposed. • Newte's Tour in England and Scotland, p. 67. London, 1791. That re«P«- table persona«;e, Andrew Fairservice, likewise gives an account of what took pl*^ on this occasion, which, though it is a little more particular, is no doubt equally •«• thentic with the others — Waverley Novels, ( Kob Uoy,) Vol. viii. pp. 29-30. t This resolution must he regarded as a proof of the good taste of the parties «<>**' cerned. Mr A. Maclellan, in his interesting *' Essay on the Cathedral Church of Glasgow," (Glasgow, 1833, 4to, p. 62.) says, regarding the laigh steeple and ^ consistory house, that " placed in the most conspicuous situation, on approachirigO* cathedral, they thrust their ungainly forms between it and the spectator Their ar- chitecture marks no period nor displays any thing but the poor ambition which could be contented with creating even deformity.*' i Records of Glasgow Kirk-Session. § Life of MelviUc, Vo\. V. p. AAft, GOVAN. G77 commissioners ** to pas to ye lache kirk, onder the hie kirk, and yair visie the paivmentis contenit yrin how far ye samein as yet re* maines unstollen/' and on the following^ day it is thought expe- dient ** that rather the samein be transportit and tane away to mak paivment in the lache kirk, callet the Blakfreir kirk, yn yat ye samein sail be stollen and tane away/** This certainly was rather an adventurous proceeding, on the supposition that, a few years before, when it was proposed to make a quarry of the cathedral, ** the crafts of the city in a tumult took arms, swearing with many oaths that he who cast the first stone should be buried under it."f When Melville was translated to St Andrews in 15S0, he was succeeded by Mr Thomas Smeton, who was before his removal to Glasgow minister of Paisley, and who, like his predecessor, was considered one of the most learned men of his age. His appoint^ ment passed the Privy- Seal on the 3d of January 15814 Sme- ton was perfectly versed in the writings of the fathers. In early life, after spending some time in Paris, he went to Rome, where be was received into the Society of Jesuits. He afterwards re- * Records of Glasgow Kirk-Session. f Spotswood, History} p. 304. The truth is, it was mainly owing to the consistory or kirk-session of Glasgow, that the cathedral was preserved in those days from fall- ing into ruins. Along with the provost and magistrates, the principal and regents of the University, and the ministers of certain parishes in the country, the most intel- ligent and influential of the inhabitants of the city, were members of that body. Tho oldest record of their transactions which has been preserved begins with the year 15S9. From this record, it appears that, on the 20th of October 1586, the session, considering it ** yair dewtie to be cairfuU for to si>c ye rewins of yc kirk repairit, and finding ye matter of greit importance,** applied to the magistrates and council to ** find out sum gud overture howe ye said kirk may be repairit." This application was re- newed on the dd of November. On the 7th of December 1587, the session thought it right that the deacons of the diflerent crafts should meet with the provost, bailies, •od council, ^* to ij^if yair avise and jugemcnt** respecting the reparation of the high kirk. On the 25th of January following, commissioners were sent to the General Assembly by the session, to petition for *^ ane commission wi licens fra ye kingis majestie for reparation of ye hie kirk of Glasgw, the besit way the toun and paro> ebin of ye samein may/* Another royal commission was applied for through the magistrates and council, on ttic 1st of August 1588. Accordingly, Mr Andrew Hay, person of Renfrew, as we find from a minute of the dOth January thereafter, received the King's letters, *' to nominate stenteris for stenting to repair the hie kirk." The Duke of Lennox on the 2l5t of November 1588, and the prior of Blantyre on the 17Ui of July 1569, were requested by the session to do their **part in repairing of ye queir of Glasgw.*' On the Idth of November 1589, the magistrates and session una- nimously resolved, that the whole of the penalties that might be received by the ses- riou, io all time coming, should be " allenerlie imployed upon ye repairing of ye kirk •nd kirk work, be ye mutuall avyse of yc mgratis and scssioun." And on the 2«3d of April 1590, the session ordained that all the canons of Glasgow should " be urgit for ye reparation of the kiik of Glasgw, and spccialie ye chapter- house yairof." These tftai similar extracts, which might Ik; produced, may serve to show that the Reformers p.ao7. LANARK. X X 67 b LANAUKSHIRE. visited Paris, and was in that city at the time of the massacre of St Bartholomew. In the course of eight days, according to Sully,* 70,000 Protestants were put to death in the city and proyinces. The Pope ordered a Te Deum to be sung, and medals to be struck in honour of the event. And the famous Muretus, whom the per^dious Charles dispatched to Rome to communicate the intelligence, delivered in the presence of the Pope an elaborate oration, in which he declared, that ^' the River Seine rolled on with greater majesty after having received the carcases of the murder- ed heretics."f It was known in Paris that Smeton had embraced the doctrines of the Reformation. He escaped, therefore, the fate of the unhappy Huguenots, solely through the intervention of Sir Thomas Walsingham, the English embassador, in whose house he took refuge, and whom he accompanied to England. He died io Glasgow on the 13th December 1583, in the forty-seventh year of his age, and was buried in the cathedral. ^ An epitaph in honour of Thomas Smeton and Alexander Arbuthnot, who was Principal of King's College, Aberdeen, and who died the same year, was composed by their friend and distinguished coadjutor, Andrew Mel- ville. He describes them as '' two luminaries of our nation lately extinguished in the north, and in the meridian of their gloiy." But it is easy to. see from the language he employs, that if he had great respect for Arbuthnot, Smeton^ had attracted a still larger share of his admiration and esteem. * Memoirs of Sully, Vol. i. p. 45. London, 1810. t Christ. Observ. Vol. xxxv. p. 478. i Spotswood's Hist. p. 3S5. Baillie's Letters, Vol. iii. p. 886, MSS. in Bik Coll. Glas. WodroVs Life of Sineton, MSS. in Bib. Coll. Glas. Mackcnfitf'* vSccnes, Vol. iii. p. 194. M'Crie's Life of MelviUe, Vol. i. pp. 1 17, 2d3. § " Vix heu, vix raptuni defleviinus Arbuthnetum, Vix hcu justa datis solvimus inferiis: Et preinit altera mors, et funcre fun lis accrbat : Et magno extincto luniine ni^jus obit. I He quidcm Arctoa tenebras de nocte fugabat, Fulgebas medio Glasgua stclla die. Quod si luce sua spoliata est noxque diesquc Nostra, eheu quantis obruiinur tenebris ! Aut ergo c tenebris revoca lucem : aut hoininum lux Christe redi ; ut nobis stct sine node dies." _ , Delitiffi Poet. Scot. Tom. ii. p. 121. M 1 fi ^"®'" ^ '^^^^ Row,dated January 18, 1578, Smeton is thus characteriicd by Alelvillo, '*Smetonius acerrimus bonce causa; propugnator." (MSS. in Bib. Adv. iVt'Crie's Life of Melville, VoL i. p. 185, note. ) When Hamilton, the apostate, pub- hshetlabook full of furious invective, and libellous charges against the Protestants of ''n" k"'*' ^!P^^^ ^^ ^^S<^^ ^y **is friend, Andrew MelviUe, to write a reply to it. ihis he undertook to do, and in a very short time, he produced a work which, forthe keenness of its reproofs, the force of its reasoning, its classical diction, and profound learning, is justly entiUed to a distinguished place among the writings of that age. GOVAN. 679 The last Principal of the College of Glasgow, who officiated as minister of Govan, was Mr Robert Boyd of Trochrig. His father was Archbishop of Glasgow, nephew of Robert Lord Boyd, and grandson of David Earl of Cassillis, and great-grandson of Robert, Earl of Arran. There is a memoir of Robert Boyd, written by the indefatigable Wodrow, among his unpublished MSS. in the Library of the College of Glasgow. * When com- piling it, Wodrow had access to some valuable papers in the pos- session of the Trochrig family. It is full of minute and interesting details, which illustrate the manners of the times, and throw con- siderable light on an important period in the history of our own church, and of the Protestant Church of France. The title is itself an epitome of Boyd's Life, f The early part of his educa- tion was received in the academy at Ayr. After graduating at Edinburgh in 1595, he left Scotland, on his way to France, on the 1st of May 1597. | Learned Scotsmen were at this time resident in almost all the universities and colleges of that country. In some of these, most of the professors were natives of Scotland. Boyd soon found himself, therefore, surrounded by. his countrymen. During the greater part of the time he lived abroad, Boyd was connected with the University of Saumure. § It was chiefly through It k dedicated to King Jamest and has this title, << Ad virulcntum Archibaldi Ha- miltonii Apoatatae Dialogum, Dc, Confusione Calvinianas Sects Apud Scotos, Impie CoDaetiptuoi Ortbodoxa Rcsponsio, Kdinburgi, 1579.** There is in it an account of the last hours of John Knox, by one " qui ad cxtremum vsque spiritum a^rotanti anedit.** The following affecting description, which has the vivid colouring of a pic- ture by an eye-witness, is likewise given of the horrible atrocities of St Bartholomew's Eve. " Nulla cani capitis revcrentia, nulla doctissimorum hominum ratio habita fuit. Grandaerie matres, virgines, puellie, ipsique infantes abstract! uberibus, miscro- que partu jam instante mulieres partim pedibus sicariorum calcantur in plateis, par- tim rero unco in Sequanum trahuntur, paucos carceri committunt, quos statim postea borribiliter trucidant,*' p. 117. Dempster pronounces Smeton's work to bo "opui Terborum omatu non inelcgans,*' though his prejudices as a Roman Catholic lead him to add, aa might bu expected, ** sed doctrina vacuum." (Hist. £ccl. Scot. Tom. iL p. 586.) In 1581, the General Assembly appointed "ane method of preaching to be printed and put in Scotts be Mr Thomas Smcton/* Booke of the Universall Kirk, edited by A. Peterkin, p. 219. • Wodrow MSS. Vol. xv. t The title is, " Collections on the Life of Mr Robert Boyd of Trochrige, in the diire of Air and bailayrie of Carrick. I'roft^sor of Philosophy in the Colledge of Montauban, Minister of the Gospel in the Church of Vertuile, and Pastor and Pro- nator of Theology in the University of Saumure, in France ; and Principal of the University of Glasgow, Minister and Professor of Divinity at Edinburgh, and Mi- nister at Paisley." f The celebrated Andrew Revet states erroneously, that his friend arrived in France in 1604. Robertii Bodii Prelcctiones in Epistolam ad Ephesios, Andreas Riveti Epistola, p. 2. Londini, 1652. I In that university, in 1612, there wore two Professors of Divinity, one Professor of Hebrew, one Professor of Greek, two Professors of Philosophy, and five Regents. Quickls 8ynodicon, Vol. i p. 388. 680 LANARKSHIRE. the influence of Duplessis Mornay,* whose friendship he enjoyed till his death, that he was removed from Vertuille to that univer- sity. In October 1614, having been appointed by King James to preside over the University of Glasgow, he left Saumure, along with a French lady, whom he had married but a short time before. They came to England by Dieppe, and, after spending a few days in London, proceeded to Scotland, f At his installation, as Principal of the University of Glasgow, Boyd stipulated that he should be allowed to make a trial of his office for one year ; that he should not be called upon to undertake all that the Principal was required to do by the foundation charter, which he did not think any one man could perform ; and that he should be excused from correcting the students;^ with his own hands, and from taking • " Mornay,- Servtt c'galement son eglise ct la France Censeur des courtisans, mais k la cour aim^ ; Ficr enemi de Rome, et de Rome estim^.** La Henriade, chant premier, vers 151. " Duplessis Mornay le plus Tertaeux et le plus grand homme du parti Protestant naquit k Buy le 5 NoTerobre 1549. II aa> vait le Latin ct le Grec parfaJtement, et THebreu autant qu*on le peut a«Toir: oe qui etait un prodige. alors dans un gentilhomme. 11 serrit sa religion et aoD mahre de sa plume et de son ipie." — Note de I'Lditeur. t The following extracts from Wodrow's Life of Boyd may be gratifying to poli- tical and domestic economists: " He agreed with a coachman at London, and gave him L. 24 Sterling for his coach and four horses to take him and his family to Edin- burgh, the coachman paying for the horses by the way. They parted froni London, November 24, and arrived at Edinburgh in seventeen days, upon the 10th of De- cember, and were generally speaking, 10s. a-day for their own and the coachman's meat. Prom Edinburgh they came to Glasgow upon Thursday, December 31st, and lodged with Sir C*eorge Elphinstown of blythswood [who was married to a daughter of Lord Boyd,] till January 27, 1G15.** (p. 68.) ** He observes, that when he came to Glasgow, he gave Mr Taylour, for coming to his wife an hour every day, and teaching her to read English, for about three months, an angclot, value 10 merks.** (p. 71.) The items next mentioned, will startle, I have no doubt, the modern comptrollers of some presbytery clubs. ^* He ate, save when abroad, eTery month at the presbytery, and they paid 6d. a-piece for their dinner, and sometimes 8d. a- piece when they called for wine. 1 find him very charitable, and giving largely to poor objects, and particularly to some Flemish and other foreigners in straits. No small branch of his outgoings is for books." (p. 74.) ** He gives sometimes nineteen merks, sometimes eighteen, for a carcass of beef." Ibid. I'he contrast between the former and the present state of Glasgow will appear strange to some, when they find that he procured ** most of his furniture from Edinburgh and London, — his clothes for himself and his lady, their pouther [pewter?] their chairs, and all kinds of spices and drug's, and what they needed in physic, and all his candle. It seems he could not be provided in those in Glasgow." For a horse to Govan, ^* be gave 8d., and, at lowest, half a merk ; to Paiilcy, Is. 6d." Wodrow, who died in 1734^ thinks these charges quite exorbitant. He is therefore disposed to think they must have included ft charge for an additional horse for the servant of the Principal. Ibid. X V« odrow's Life of Boyd, p. 70. He made a similar stipulation in the presence of the magistrates and council, before he entered upon the duties of bis office as Principal of the University of Edinburgh. He was of opinion, that to have things well ordered, and good manners duly maintained and observed, " personal castigation of the students was necessary.** But for him to inflict this, besides being repugnant to his nature, and at variance with his former practice, he thought would be ioocm- sistcnt with his sacred character. He admitted that his predecessor at Glaseow, Mr Patrick Sharp, was wot ot \\us to\wA.. "ftvkX. X-Vx^w.^ said he, Mr Sharp merely conti- GOVAN. GBl hid place at the college table. The violent proceedings of* Arch* bishop Law, in enforcing conformity, excited the indignation of Boyd. That prelate went to some young men, who were at that time attending the university, whom he saw seated at the commu- nion table, and commanded them to rise, if they would not receive the elements in a kneeling posture. One of these was Mr John Livingston, who was afterwards minister of Ancrum. The next day, the Principal told Mr Livingston, that, in the course of two or three weeks, he was to celebrate the communion at Govan, when he, and any of his companions who might choose to accom- pany him, would have an opportunity of communicating in the manner they had been accustomed to do. Along with Mr Ro- bert Blair and the other regents of the university, he likewise ex- postulated with the Archbishop for driving from the communion table those whom Christ would welcome, adding, *< that the table was not his, but Christ's, and yet he had dealt as imperiously as if removing his horse-boys from the bye-board." * When Boyd demitted his office as Principal in 1621, he wished to retain his charge as minister of Govan. But he was not permitted to do this. He died at Edinburgh, on the 5th of January 1627, in the 49th year of his age. ^^ He spoke and wrott Latine most nativly and fluently," says Mr John Livingston, f ^< I have heard him say that, if he were to choose a language wherein to deliver his minde with the most ready freedom, it would be the Greek tongue." According to Mr Matthew Crawford, J the predecessor of Wod- row at Eastwood, it was said of Boyd, that ^^ he was more elo- quent in the French than in his mother tongue, more eloquent in the Latin than in the French, and more eloquent in Greek than in Latin." Nor is the testimony of a learned foreigner less ho- nourable to him. Andrew Rivet, § who was pastor of the church nued '* his vonted custom whcrcunto be was inured in the grammar school/* from which he was removed to be Principal of the university. What he proposed, there- fore, vas, that the oldest regent, or sub-principal, should correct offenders, or that each of the regents should, under the direction of the Principal, correct his own studeou. lb. p. 172. See also M*Crie's Life of Melville, Vol. i. p. 8:^. Milton, ac- eordiog to hit learned biographer, was oae of the last students who suffered the in- dignity of corporal correction- at Oxford. ^ Life of Mr Robert Blair, written by himself, p. 37. Life of Mr John Living. stOD, written by himself, p. G. t Livingston's Remarkable Observations, p. 41, MS. in Bib. Ad. ± Wodrow's Life of Boyd, p. 119. § And. lliveti Epist. ut supra. The following works of Robert Boyd have been published: 1. ** Preelcctiones in Epbtolam ad Ephesios," fol Londini, 1652. This was a posthumous work. Pre- filed to it is an epistle by Andrew Rivet ^ De vitn, scriptis, moribus, et felici exitu, Roberti Bodii." This is followed by an <^ Epistola ad Lvcturem," from Principal Baillie, who studied under Boyd at Glasgow, and held his memory in profound ve- neration. 2. Monita dc Alii sui priraogcnili institutionCi ^vo, \1V)V, ^. "^^ \\^^^« 682 • LANAHKSHIUE. of Touars, and with whom Boyd resided for some time, when he first went to France, declares that he had acquired as great faci- lity in the use of the Greek and Latin languages, as he had of his vernacular tongue, and, moreover, along with a pure pronun* ciation, that he had as perfect a command of French. Some notice must likewise be taken of Mr Hugh Binniiig, who has been justly characterized ^ as *^ an extraordinary instance of precocious learning and genius." At the early age of nineteen^ be succeeded as Regent of Philosophy the celebrated James Dal- rymple,f who was afterwards President of the Court of Session,aDd Viscount Stair. As minister of Govan, he was the successor of Mr William Wilkie. His ordination took place on the 8th of January 1649, when Mr David Dickson, one of the theological professors in the College of Glasgow, and author of ** Therapeu- tica Sacra," presided. J When Cromwell came to Glasgow in tombc Christiana,** which is dedicated ** Rcrerendo Prasuli agnato et amieo suo charissimo D. Andree Bodio Argatbelia Antistiti dignistirao.'* Both of thcK have been printed among the *•* Delicis Poetarum Scotorum,** Tom. i. p. 206. Bojd alao composed a laudatory poem on King James, vhich may be seen in Adamaon'a *< Mu8c*s Welcome,** and which, as is observed by Mr Chambers, the author of the ^^ Lives of Illustrious and Distinguished Scotsmen,** appears to have been overlooked by Wodrow. * Chambers*s Lives, Vol. i. p. 208. •f- It was the practice at that time, when a rcgent*s office was vacant, to cause a programme to be placed over the college gate, announcing that the situation was to be filled up on a certain day, and that it should be given to the Individual, who, af* tcr competition, should be pronounced to be dif^nior et doclior. Mr James Dal* rymple, who was then a captain in the army^ and not more than twenty- two years of age, was thus induced to present himself as a candidate for the office, and was elected, a^r sustaining in buff and scarlet, the military uniform of those days, a public dis- putation with the other competitors. (Binning's Life prefixed to his works, p.- 5. Glasgow, 1768, Report of University Commissioners, 1K30, p. 221.) The day of election was" IV. Id Martii, 1641,** (Annates Coll. Glasg.) In the same year, the salaries of the regents were raised to 500 merks, ** by reason of the dear rate of all things." Tlie appointment of Hugh Binning as successor to Dalrymple is dated «« iiij Cal Nov. 1646.*' Id. X Glae payed to ye tacksman ofye vicarage ofye small tcinds. *'( College Papers, MSS.) When the office of minister of Govan was di^oined from that of the FVincipal, the former was. GOVAN. f)83 1651, a discussion on some of the controverted points of the times was held in his presence, between his chcaplains, the learned Dr John Owen, Joseph Caryl, and others on the one side, and some Scots ministers on the other. Mr Binning, who was one of the disputants, nonplused, it is said, the Independents, which led Cromwell to ask, who was that learned and bold young man ? His name, he was told, was Binning. ** He hath bound well, indeed," said he, " but," laying his hand on his sword, " this will loose all again." * The late Mr Orme f was of opinion that there is no- thing improbable in the account of the meeting. But that such a meeting took place is absolutely certain.. This appears from two letters which were written by Principal Bail lie, who was at that time Professor of Theology in the University of Glasgow.:!: bound to ^* read some public lecture in the common schools of the College, as sliall be prescribed to him by the officers of the University and Masters of the College.** ( Account of University of Glasgow, [written by Dr Tliomas Rcid, Prof, of Moral FhiL] in former Statistical Account of Scotland, Vol. xxi. Append, p. 24.) For a number of years previous to this, the non-residence of the minister of Govan WM felt to be a grievance, and complained of by the parishioners. At a presbyterial visitation on the 1st of June 1596, " It is fund yt yair is na residence of a mist, at the kirk of Oovanoi) qlk is havelie lametit be ye elderis of ye kirk of Govanc.** ( Glasg. Presb. Rec.) '< It is fund and lametit,^' at a subsequent visitation, on tlie 12th of February 1606, *^ yat yair is not ane to teichc yu youtlie of ye parochin of Govane dweUand besyde ye kirk yairof, quha may avuitt on ye efFuiria of ye said kirk, and do his dewtie yairuntill, as salbe injoynit to him. And yis is ordenit as a refer to be comettit to ye nixt Synod,Tliat yeSynod may give yair jugemct and dcclanitiuon anet." (Id.) Charles I. granted to the College a charter of confirmation and novodtimui^ under the Great Seal, dated St Jameses, 28th June IGdO. which was ratified on the 28th of June 1633, by an Act of the Parliament of Scotland. This charter gave full power to the College to present a qualified person to the church and parish of Govan, their presentee being astricted to reside in the parish. The words of the charter are, '* Cum plen4 et speciali potcstatu^ nioderatoribus dicti Collegii dc Glasgow presenti- busy eorumque successoribus in futurum, elegendi, nominandi, seu presentandi et aoceptandi ministrum pro deservitione curs apud dictam eccJcsiam de Govan, qui pTBStabit suam actualem residentiam apud dictam ecclesiam.*' (Information for lie- ritors of Govan, against Principal and Professors of the College of Glasgow, 1796, p. 19. Glai^. I^resb. liec. 18lh June. 1740.) During the time that Episcopacy was established in this country, the College of Glasgow appointed " one of their numl>er to vote at the election of the Archbishop of Glasgow,*' as Govan had been a prebend of the cathedral. Parishes in Scotland, p. 208, Macfarlan MSB. in Hib. Ad. • Biog. Scot. p. 169. Dumfries, 1833. f Memoirs of Dr Owen, pp. 93, 96. $ In a letter dated April 22, 1651, and addressed to Mr Robert Douglas, Baillie sajrs, after mentioning that Cromwell had unexpectedly made his appearance in Glau^ow, with the prmcipal part of his army, and had gone to hear sermon on the Sunday, in the forenoon to the Inner Church, and in the afternoon to the Outer Church, " Tliat night some of the army were trying if the ministers would be pleased of their own accord to confer with their general. When none had shown any willing- ness, on Monday a gentleman from Cromwell came to the most of the brethren severally desiring, yea requiring them, and the rest of the ministry in town, to come and speak with their general. All of us did meet to advise, and after some debate we were oontent all to go and hear what would be said. When we came, he spoke long and smoothly, showing the scandal himself and others had taken at the doitrine they had beard preached, especially that they were condemned, 1. as unjust invaders ; 2. as contemners and tramplers under foot of the ordinances ; 3. as persecutors of the luinis. ters of Ireland. That, as they were unwilling to oBend us by a public contradicting G84 LANAUKSIIIRE* After a short but brilliant career, Binning died of consumption iQ September 1653, before he had completed his twenty-seventh year. A marble tablet, with an inscription in classical Latin, was erected to his memory by his friend Mr Patrick Gillespie, who was then Principal of the University of Glasgow. It has been placed in the vestibule of the present parish church. Binning was styled by his contemporaries the Scots Cicero. The whole of his works are posthumous publications.* JLand'Owners. — The lands and barony of Gorbals, which con- sist of 515 acres, belong to the patrons of Hutcheson's Hospital, the corporation of GJasgow, and the incorporated trades of that city. They were bought from Sir Robert Douglas of Blaickertoo in 1650, and were held in cumulo till the year 1789, when they were divided by the three corporations who now possess them, ac» cording to their respective interests. The valued fent of Hutche- son*s Hospital is L. 500 Scots ; that of the corporation of Glas- gow and of the incorporated trades is L.250 Scots each.f The other principal landed proprietors are. Miss Oswald of ScotstowD; Sir John Maxwell of Follok, Bart. ; Alexander Speirs, Esq. of Elderslie, M. P. ; James Smith, Esq. of Jordanhill ; Alexander Johnstone, Esq. of Shieldhall ; Moses Steven, Esq. of Bellahous- in the cbnrch, so they expected we would be willing to give them a reason when they craved it in private. Wc showed our willingness to give a reason either for these three, or what else was excepted against in any of our sermons. The time appointed for this was this day at two o'clock at CromwelKs lodgings ; but this morning he sent us word it would be to-morrow, and at that same time and place he would attend us.** (MSSb Letters, Vol. iii. pp. 286-288, in Bib. Coll. Glasg.) In another letter, addressed to Mr Andrew Ker, dated Friday, May 2, 1651, 13aillic says, " How our conference with Cromwell was contrived, or for what ends, I may well guess, but can affirm nothing. It was put on us that wc could not decline it. You will see the sum of it drawn up by Mr James Guthrie and Mr I'atrick Gillespie, the main speakers. We bad no disadvantage in the thing.** (Id. p. 290.) Two volumes of Principal Baillie^s Letters were published in 1775, at the suggestion of Dr Robertson, the historian, and Mr David Hume. When a new edition is presented to the public, which has been long called for, it will contain, it is to be hoped, the entire collection. Many other letters, besides those which have been quoted, which are not found in the two printed volumes, are full of interest. In 1648, when Cromwell first came to Edinburgh, he had likewise a conference there with some of the Scots clergy on religious topics. Mr Robert Blair, who was chaplain to Charles I. was one of those who were appointed by the Commission of the Assembly to meet with him. As usual, Cromwell shed abundance of tears. On leaving the house, however, Blair said somewhat roughly to Mr David Dickson and Mr James Guthrie, his two associates, who had been imposed upon by Cromwell's professions, " If ye knew him as weH as 1 do, ye would not be- lieve a word he says. He is an egregious dissembler, and a great liar.** Life of Blair, p. loa * Messrs A. FuDerton 8c Co. of Glasgow have now in the press an edition of the works of Hugh Binning, with notes and a preliminary commentary by the writer of this account. Another edition, at present publishing by Messrs William Whytc & Co. Edinburgh, is intended to form part of their *♦ Select Library of Scottish I vines." "j Hist. ofHutcheson's Hosjiital, pp. 48-57. GOVAN. 685 touD ; George Rowan, Esq. of Holmfauldhead, &c. The valued rental of the parish is nearly L. 5000 Scots. After the Reforma- tion, a commission was granted to Walter, Commendator of Blan- tyro, to feu the lands of the lordship and regality of Glasgow, ** to the effect," says Hamilton of Wishaw, " that the tenents, being thereby become heretable possessors of their severall possessions, might be incouradged by vertue and politic to improve that coun- try/'* The following is a list of the names and properties of cer- tain heritors in the parish of Govan, who previously possessed their lands as the rentallers of the Archbishop, and who, in the year 1595, united in obtaining a charter of confirmation from James VL The list is taken from this charter. George Gilmour of the ]0s. land in Little Govan. John Anderson Junior, of the 15s. land there. David Boll of the lOs. land there. James Murdoch of the t20s. land there. 'WilUam Stevine, son of Thomas Stcvine, in Meikle Govan, of the l*2s. 6d. land there. The said William Stevine of three acres of mill lands there. John Gibson in fee, and Elizabeth Tumbull, widow of John Gibson, in liferent of the t25s. land in Meikle Govan. James Anderson of 68. dd. land there. Mrs Henry Gibsonc in Thomas Clydsdaille in liferent, and George Clydsdaille in fee of the Gs. 3d. land there. Andrew Watson of the 6s. dd. land there. James Rowand in east end of the 1 8s. 9d. land there. James SelUre there, of the 12s. 6d. land there. John Anderson, otherwise Mathie there, of the 6s. 3d. land there. Thomas Hill, son of Mr I^aures Hill there, of the 25s. land in Yb rocks (Ibrox.) William HiH of the 18s. 9d. land there. James Anderson, son of David Anderson, of the 12%;. 6d. land there. John Hill of the 21s. d' Gibsone of the 12s. 6d. land there. Agnes Gibsone, in Uyndland, in liferent, and Niniaii Dennistoune, her son, in fiv of the 5s. land in Hyndlaud. John Sheills and William Robertson in Partick of the 1 Ss. 4d. land there. Robert Allaneson of the 6s. 8d. land there. William Sheills, there, of the 208. land there. John Allan of the 6s. 8d. land there. Thomas Shauiks of the Ids. 4d. land there. Walter Craig of the 6s. 8d. land there. John Alexnoder of the 6s. 8d. land there. John Crawford of the 68. 8d. land there. William Younger of the 6s. 8d. land, which formerly belonged to William Harvie, and of the 26s. 8d. land, and of the yard called the Bishop*8 Orchard, and of the 6s. 8d. land, called Browland, and of three acres of mill lands there. John Cuming, in Byres of Partick, of the 20s. land there. The heritors of Govan still pay to the Crown, as coming in place of the Archbishop, the following annual feu-duties, which are understood to be nearly the same in amount as the rents which were drawn by the church before the Reformation : Scots money, - - . . L. 91 ic 7\q • Mwil, 'J'his John Stewart of Rossland is elsewhere described in the charter as Iiolding " the office of forester and custodier of the new forest called the Park of Partick." - L. 91 16 B. F. P. 391 1 OH GOVAN. Barley, Com, Capons, Poultry, Salmon, B. F. P. A 2 1« 41 2 2H - in^ 106VV 92A 687 Previous to the year 1825, the College of Glasgow for more than a century enjoyed, by successive renewals from the Crown, a beneficial lease of these and other rents and revenues, which for- merly belonged to the Archbishopric of Glasgow. Since then the lease has not been renewed. But in lieu of it, on the 7th of August 1826, His Majesty George IV. was pleased to grant to the College an annuity of L. 800 for fourteen years.* The teinds of the parish, which are the property of the College, subject to the pkyment of the minister's stipend, are nearly all valued. These amount annually to about L. 940. Parochial Registers. — The records of the kirk-session contain an uninterrupted history of its proceedings from January 15, 1710. Some years ago, an old volume was discovered, and restored to the session, by the descendants of a former elder of the parish. It commences with the 15th of May 1651, and ends with the 11th of May 1662. The date of the earliest entry in the register of baptisms and marriages is July 2, 1690. In the year 1729, in place of the baptisms, the births of children were, for the first time, recorded. Since the year 1817, a list of the interments in the parish churchyard has been kept.-|- Hospital of Polmadie, — Persons of both se^es were admitted into this asylum, which was dedicated to St John, and maintained in it during life. The church and temporalities of Strathblane were annexed to it, along with a part of the lands of Little Govan. j: The privileges of the hospital were confirmed by Alexander III., and afterward by Robert Bruce, at Rutherglen, in the eleventh year of his reign ; and in 1333, a charter of exemption was grant- ed by the Earl of Lennox.§ Patrick de Floker was made master of the brothers and sisters, and pensioners of the hospital of Pol- madie, in 1316, by Robert Wiseheart, || Bishop of Glasgow, who * Rep. of Com. for Tisiting Univ. of Glasgow, 1839, p. ]9. f It will be seen from the following minute in the session records of this parish, that the compulsory plan of education adopted in Prussia is not altogether an origi- nal sjstem. . " The samen day (June *2G, 1653) the session docs ordain that everic elder in their severall qrters do search who have children able and fit to come to acboole, and does not send them, to dcall wt them for that effect, and to signifie that if they prove deficient hereinto, according to an old act of session, they will be oblidg.. cd to pay their qrter, as well as if they came to this achooll.'* $ Cart. Glasg. Tom. i. p. 329. § Id. ]}p. SOG, 265, [( Id. v. 319. (388 LANARKSHIRE. died the same year. In 1319, William de Houk was nomi- nated to the same office by Edward IL ;* and William de Kirkyn- tullach by Queen Margaret,f May 18, 1367. The master and brothers of the hospital of Polmadie received a precept from bishop GlendoningjJ dated May 10, 1391, commanding them to receive Gillian de Vaux as a sister and portioner. William de Cunyng- ham,§ Vicar of Dundonald, was appointed to the mastership of the hospital by the Earl of Lennox. But Bishop Glendoning laid claim to the right of presentation. He, therefore, commanded William de Cunyngham to give up his charge, under the pain of excommunication. And on the 7th of January 1424, in the west chapel of the Castle of Edinburgh, Duncan, Earl of Lennox, fo^ nially surrendered to William Lauder, Bishop of Glasgow and Chancellor of the kingdom, || any real or supposed right he had to present to the mastership of the Hospital of Polmadie, and to tbe ohurch of Strathblane. In the year 1427, Bishop Cameron, with the consent of the chapter, erected the Hospital of Polmadie and the church of Strathblane into a prebend of his cathedral. The erection was confirmed by a bull of Pope Martin V. The per- son collated to this prebend was required to provide for the sup- port of a vicar in the parish of Strathblane, and to give salaries to four boys to sing in the choir of the cathedral.f The " vestiges of religious houses" *• which were to be seen towards the end of the last century in the neighbourhood of Polmadie, but which are not visible now, were, it cannot be doubted, the ruins of the hos- pital. St Ninian's Hospital. — Leprosy was formerly so prevalent in this country as to claim the attention of the Scottish Parliamentft About the middle of the fourteenth century, an hospital for the reception of persons afflicted with this frightful distemper was founded by Lady Lochow, the daughter of Ilobert Duke of Al- bany. This hospital was dedicated to St Ninian. The tract of ground, therefore, on which it stood, and on which a part of Hut- chesontown is now built, was called St Ninian's Croft.JJ There was connected with the hospital of St Ninian a chapel, which was • Rym. Foed. Tom. iii. p. 786. f Cart. Clasg. Tom. i. p. 417, * Id. p. U5, I Id. p. 459. [I Id. p. 557. f Id. p, 523. •• Former Statistical Account of Scotland, Vol. v. p. 541. tt Ja* I- pa. 7. cap, 105. Tliere was a leper hospital at King-case, near the town of Ayr, which is said to have been founded by King Robert Bruce, who is represent- ed to have died himself of lej)rosy. Spottiswood's llelig. Houses, App. to Hope's Mi- nor Practicks, p. 532. tt M^Urc*s Hist, of Glasg. pp. 52-54. novAN. 689 rebuilt and endowed in 1494, by William Stewart, prebendary of Killearn, and rector of Glasford. The chaplain was the master of the grammar school of Glasgow, who, besides giving security for the safe custody of the missals, valued at 12 merks Scots, and of the silver chalices, weighing fourteen ounces, was required to supply the inmates of the hospital with a certain quantity of fuel, and likewise to give twenty-four poor scholars 2 shillings Scots each to sing seven penitential psalms, with the De profundis, on the anniversary of the death of the founder, and for the repose of his soul.* Afker the Elphinstone family obtained the lands of Gor- bals, the rents and feu-duties which had been appropriated to the support of the hospital were misapplied. The charge of the poor ** leper folk," therefore, seems to have devolved upon the session of Glasgow.f The situation of St Ninian's Hospital was not far from the south end of the Gorbals bridge. :|: No remains of it whatever now exist ; but a plain old building, which stood till late- ly near the bridge, between the main street of Gorbals and Muir- head Street, commonly received the name of the Leper Hospi- tal.§ Close to this spot a considerable quantity of human bones were not long ago discovered, plainly indicating the locality of the kper^s churchyard. On the east side, and near the centre of the main street of Gorbals, an antiquated edifice, which has been call- ed, from time immemorial, the chapel^ is still standing. It seems to be certain that this is the site of St Ninian's Chapel, if not the • Cart. Glasg. Tom. ii. p. 930. f ** The sessioun ordenis David Hall, roaistcr of work, and Johnnc Scott, to visie tbe Upper folkis house beyondc the brig, to see how ye samen may be reformit, sic- Ijrk yai ordene Steven Glasgow, watter baillie, to gif in ye rental of ye lippcr folkis, yis day viij dayvs " (Glasg. Scss. Rec. 20th October 1586.) ** The sessioun or- denis Johone Scott, thesaurcr to ye kirk, to gif furt, of ye penitentis silueir he hes in hand, swa mekill silueir as will be straye, stobbis, and rigging, to repair ye pair lipper folkis hous beyondc the brig of Glasgow, and as will satisfie ye work- numahipe in handling ye sainen, and that incontinent hcirefler — provyding yat ye pnt reparation to be hald of ye said puir folkis house ostrict not the kirk to yc wp- haldin of ye samen, in tynies cuming, neither derogate or abstract ye burden fra tbeie persones, gif ony be quha hes ben or may be fund astricted, to repair ye samen. As also ordenis ye said watter baillie to gif wp yis day viij days the nomber ^^y^ puir in ve said hospitalle, and quha arc yai yt aucht to haif place yairin." (Id. 2d No. Tember 1587.) William Maxwell of Cowglen, in 1625, bequeathed « to the lipper folk at ye Bridgend of Glasgow xxs." Com. Rec. M»Ure*8 Hist, note by edit. p. 66. f *< Ad hospitale leprosorum degentium prope pontem Glasguensem." Cart. Glasg. ad tupra, f That this old building at one time formed a part of St Ninian's Hospital scarce- ly admits of a doubt. The charter of a conterminous property describes it to be si- tuated on the east side of the High Street of Gorbals, and bounded by that " meikle yard belonging to the borough of Glasgow on the east, and the hospital called the L,eper*8 Hospital, and kirkyard thereof, on the north." The following entry appears in a rentel-book of the city of Glasgow, dated 1760, »' D. Gemmil for the back land n the leper. house, Is. 8d." 690 LANARKSHIRE. chapel itself. M*Ure says, that the friends of Sir GeoTge El- phinstone buried him privately in his own chapel, *^ adjoining to his house." The tower which is connected with the building in question, he also says, was erected by Robert Douglas, Viscount Belhaven. We know not on what authority Mr Brown states, in his History of Glasgow, (Vol. il. p. 1 17,) that the chapel was re- built by Sir George Elphinstone. As it could not be a Tery old structure in his time, it was probably repaired only by him, after " the hail images^altares — and all kynd of monuments of idola- trie" had been removed by the Duke of Chatelrault, ♦ when he came to Glasgow in 1559, or by others, in conformity with the act of council passed in 1560. Doomster Hill. — This was the name which was formerly giien to a small circular hill on the south side of the Clyde, and imme* diately opposite the ferry-house. It is supposed to have been one of the law hills of the country. The utilitariim and the antiquary will be differently affected when they learn that a reservoir for the use of an adjoining dye -work has been formed on the top of this tumulus, or hillock, as it is called, in the oldest titles of the pro- perty. The depth of the reservoir is about 12 feet. The perpen- dicular height of the hill itself is about 17 feet, and the diameter of its base about 150 feet. When the reservoir was deepened a few years ago, three or four rudely formed planks of black oak were dug out of it. Some small fragments of bones were likewise discovered, and a bed of what seemed to be decayed bulrushes. This proved the mound to be, at all events, an artificial one. And nothing forbids us to suppose that it may cover the ashes of some ancient hero, who now sleeps there unknown to fame.+ Ancient Urns. — In 1832, seven of these were found bv some workmen, when baring the surface of a quarry near Fartick, on the property of Mr Bogle of Gilniorehill. One was broken by the workmen before they knew what it was. The other six were found on the two succeeding days. They were not more than three feet • Spotswood Hist. p. 140. f One of two barrows, in the parish of Thorn borough, in Buckinghamshire, was late- ly cut through, under the direction of the Duke of 13uckinghain andChandos. It was above 20 feet high, and nearly 40 across. 1 n the course of digging some coins of Con- stantine, and several bronze vases much corroded, but perfect in shape, were discovered. Some glass vessels were also found, which were *• covered over with a thick piece of oaken jjlankiiig," and in which had been deposited the ashes and fragments of the bones of the person in honour of whose memory the tumuli had been raised. Lon- don Standard, November *'3()th 1839. " Ergo instauranms Polydoro funus, et ingcns Aggeritur tumulo tellus." ^Eneid^ Lib. iii. v. 62. GOVAN. 691 below the surface of the ground, and placed within a few feet of one another. Some of them are 14 inches high, 10 inches in dia- meter at the top, and 4 inches at the bottom. The others are smaller, but of the same form. The fragments of bones which were found in them were placed irregularly one above the other. They contained likewise a small portion of hair.* Hoggs Castle. — This is a very picturesque ruin. It was built in 1585 by one of the ancestors of Sir John Maxwell of Follok, and " D. Margaret Conyngha, his wyfe." There is an inscription over one of the doors to that effect, which is now read with diffi- culty. On the 6th of November 1667, information was received by the presbytery of Glasgow, or the ecclesiastical body, which, under an Episcopal form of government, continued improperly to take that name, that a conventicle had been held in the Haggs, in the parish of Govan. They therefore gave orders that the per- sons who were reported to have been present should be summon* ed to a meeting, which was appointed to be held on the 20th of the same month. On that day John Logan, one of the persons arraigned, manfully ** confessed that he was present at ye forsaid conventickle, and not onlie refused to give his oath to declare who preached, or wer then present, but furder declared he wold not be a Judas, as otheris, to delate any that wer ther present" His name and those of the other recusants were ordered to be given up to the Archbishop, along with an account of the proceed- ings* Their sentence is not recorded. Wodrow says, that, in the year 1676, Mr Alexander Jamieson, who had been ejected from the parish of Govan, because he refused to conform to Epis- copacy, " gave the sacrament in the house of the Haggs, within two miles of Glasgow, along with another clergyman. Mr Jamieson did not again drink of the vine till he drank it new in the Father's kingdom.""!* The family of PoUok suffered severely for thus keep- ing and being present at house and field conventicles. By a de- creet of the privy-council, December 2, 1684, Sir John Maxwell bad a fine imposed upon him of L.8000 Sterling. When he re- fused to pay this arbitrary and oppressive exaction, he was com- mitted to prison for sixteen months, though all, it appears, he could be charged with was, that he had received into his house * Among Uie Romans the practice of burning the dead arose from its being dis- coirered, that the bodies of those wlio were slain in their distant wars were dug up by their enemies. Plin. Nat. Hist. lib. vii. cap. 53. t Wodrow's Hist. Vol. ii. p. 318. Glasgow, 1090. (i92 LANAUKSHIRE. and conversed with some of the non- conforming clergy.* It was the cruel and tyrannical course adopted by the Ck>urt and the High Commission in those days, that led the amiable and pious Bishop Leighton f to declare, " that he could not concur in planting of the Christian religion itself in such a manner, much less a form of Government." Another dilapidated building, which was utterly devoid of in- terest, except on account of some imaginary associations connect- ed with it, stood till lately, on the west bank of the Kelvin, below Partick. It was said to be the ruins of a country residence which belonged to the archbishop of Glasgow. And the person who was positively affirmed to have erected it was Archbishop Spotswood, in 1611 4 But it is now certain that the supposed ** bishop's cas- tle" belonged to George Hutcheson of Lambhill, the founder of Hutcheson Hospital, and was built by him. The contract for its erection, which George Hutcheson, who was a notary in Glas- gow, entered into with William Millar, mason in Kilwinning, is io the possession of a descendant of the family of Hutcheson. In the said contract, with the proverbial caution of his country and profession, the standard foot is declared to be *^ ye said George's awn fute/' Were more proof wanted to show how little depend- ence can be placed on local traditions of this kind, it might be supplied by Hamilton of Wishaw, who says,§ " Above this where Kelvin falls into Clyde, is the house of Pertique, a well built aiid convenient house, well planted with barren timber, large gardens, inclosed with stone walls, which formerly belonged to George Hutcheson, founder of the Hospital Hutcheson in Glasgow, and now to John Crawford of Mvlntoun." There can be no reason to doubt, however, that before the Reformation the Bishop of Glasgow had a mansion either on the site of the house in question, or somewhere else in the vicinity of Partick. In the Glasgow chartulary there is an instrument which sets forth that certain dif- ferences that had arisen between William, Bishop of Glasgow, and his chapter, had been referred for arbitration to the Bishops of Dunkeld, Brechin, Orkney, and Galloway, and to the Abbot of • Wodrow*s Hist. Vol. ii. pp. 227-a>4, Vol. iv. p. 141. t Bishop Rurnet, who was then a young man, was pressed to go into any of the vacant churches that he liked. But, says he, " though I was entirely Episcoiwa, jel I would not engage with a body of nien'that seemed to have the principles and tem- pers of inquisitors in them, and to have no regard to religion." History of his own Times, Vol. i. p. 279. t Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol. iii. pp. 629, 639. § Description of SheriiTdom of Lanark, p. 29. oovAN. 693 the Holy Cross, Edinburgh. This instrument is dated dOth June 1362, at the bishop's mansion, Partick. * Old Tombstone. — In 1645,f the inhabitants of this part of the country were visited with one of those periodical irruptions of the plague, which formerly spread such alarm, and produced such fearful mortality over the whole island. Business was at a stand in many places. The ordinary intercourse of life was suspended. Nor could the accustomed rites of burial be attended to by those who, by a law of harsh necessity, were shut out from the sym- pathy and friendly offices of the world, and by a regard to their own safety, unwillingly compelled, almost as soon as life was ex- tinct, to bury their dead out of their sight. There can be little ' doubt, therefore, that the aged chroniclers of the neighbouring village are right when they represent an old grave-stone that still may be seen, as designed to mark the spot where a victim of the plague was hurriedly buried. This unambitious monument lies flat upon the ground, near the east side of a field, which forms part of the farm of Laigh Craigton, and not more than half a mile south from the parish church. It contains this simple intimation, HBBE LYES WILLIAM MURDOCH, SON TO KINIAN MURDOCH, CRAIGTON, WHO DECEASED THE 7 OF MARCH, 1645, OF THE AGE 15. III. — Population. The village of Go van was classed among the largest in the kingdomj: in the sixteenth century. The population of the pa- rish has increased rapidly of lale. This has been chiefly owing to its vicinity to Glasgow, in the prosperity of which city, as a place of great commercial and manufacturing importance, the parish of Govan has largely participated. Ttie popolfttion of the parish of Govan, including Gorbals, which was then incorporated with it, was in 1775, § . 4389 The pcmolation of the parishes of Govan and Gorbals in 1793, || 8318 in 1836, if 46475 The population of that part of the parish of Govan which was annexed, quoad $acra, to Gorbals, was in 1771, ** • 500 The population of the same district in 1793, 800 in ia3J,tt • 26695 at present, (1839,) above . 35000 • *• Apud manerium dicti Dni Glasgsis Epi de Perthik." [The transcriber has by miBbULe written Pcrchik.] Tom. i. p. 401. + Brown's History of Glasgow, Vol. i. p. 83, Vol. ii. p. 138. i Supra Kenfroum urbem ad duo millia est amplissimus ad Cludxc ripam pagus, Gofenum nomen habet, ob coctioncm optims cerevisis." Leslaei, Scot. Descrip. p. la § Dt Webster's Returns. || Former Stotistical Account of Govan. t Second Report of Commissioners for Religious Instruction, pp. 589, 634, 635. - Former Rutittieal Ac:ount of Gcrbals. ft Goyernmcnt Census. LANARK. Y y G94 LANARKSHIRE. The population of the pariah of Govan ezcluuTe of annexatioii, was in 179a, . . 2518 in 1836, . . 6281 The population of the Tillage of Govan was in 1896, • 2123 of Partick and rural part of the parish south oftheOyde, . 2857 The number of families in the Tillage of Strathbungo was in 1798, 95 in 1836, . 85 In the landward part of the parish, the actual rental of more than sixty proprietors is estimated at L. 50, and upwards. Tliere are in the village of Govan, or belonging to it, and supported by the parish, 3 insane, 3 fatuous, 3 blind, and 1 deaf and dumb persons. There is nothing very peculiar in the general character of the people. In the village of Govan,* there are 340 hand-loom weav- ers. It has long been remarked of these men by their employ ers, that in regard to their external appearance, and good conduct as workmen, they would not suffer from a comparison with per- sons of the same class in any part of the country, llie present generation, it is to be hoped, will not forfeit the good name they have inherited. For many years, it is too well known, the hand- loom weaver has received for his labour very inadequate remune- ration. His mind has been depressed by this. While the smith, the carpenter, the shoemaker, the mason, and the power-loom weaver, have been earning from 14s. to 25s. a week, the unfortu- nate hand-loom weaver has often been obliged to content himself with earnings ranging from 5s. to 8s. Wiser heads than his can- not comprehend how, in a well regulated commonwealth, such an unequal state of things should bfe found to exist. When a stag- nation of trade takes place, the effect is immediately felt by the hand-loom weaver, whose small earnings are still farther reduced, while the cotton-spinner, who is engaged in a branch of the same manufacture, continues to be paid according to a rate, little if any thing below the usual scale of prices. If this be the result of the establishment of trades' unions, and if, on account of the poverty of the hand- loom weaver, or from some other cause, the formation of a trades' union in his case has been found to be impracticable, it is not surprising that he should wish for the interference of the Legislature in his behalf, in one shape or another, that the interests of one class in the community may not be sacrificed to those of another. * A cliuitist agitator, who met with no countenance in this village, latelj leport* ed to his convention, that " Govan was no go." GOVAN, 695 IV. — Industry. AgricultuTB. — The whole of the land is arable, and, generally speaking, the soil is excellent. The stranger who might be dis- posed to visit Govan Moor, on account of its historical associations, would be somewhat surprised to see, instead of the purple heath, well enclosed fields, producing as luxuriant crops as any in the kingdom. The appearance of the country about Moss-House and Heathery-Hall would probably astonish him as much. The usual rotation of crops is, potatoes, wheat, hay, grass for pasture, and oats. The turnip, * an exotic from Flanders, was cultivated for the first time in this neighbourhood, by Mr William Cross of Parkhouse, Sheriff of the county of Lanark, who introduced it into the parish in the year 1756. In no part t)f the country is the produice of potatoes greater than in the parish of Govan. This is no doubt owing, in a great measure, to the farmer being able to draw a plentiful supply of manure from Glasgow. The average rent of land is about L. 4 the acre. The wages of good labourers are 10s. a-week in winter, and 12s. in summer. Masons, carpenters, and other artisans, usually get the same wages which they do in Glasgow. The duration of leases is in general from ten to fifteen years. In two or three instances only is a grain rent paid, the amount of which is regulated by the fiars of the county. Improvements at White Inch — A great part of the farm of White Inch, which lies along the north side of the Clyde, below Partick, is low ground. Mr Smith of Jordanhill, who is the proprietor of this fsinn, has granted permission to the Clyde Trustees to depo- sit the earth there, that is cut away from the banks in widening the river, and the mud or gravel, that Ls lifted by the dredging- machines in deepening it. During the last three years, L. 23,856, ISs. Id. have been paid for dredging in the harbour, and for depositing soil at White Inch. This sum includes L. 3027 paid for wages to a number of men, who were recommended by the Glasgow committee for relief of the unemployed operatives. These men were furnished with implements of various kinds, at an additional expense to the Trustees of upwards of L. 500. In the course of the last year, 145,822 cubic yards of soil have been laid down. The soil is taken to White Inch in punts, which are towed by a steam-boat. It is then removed by a contractor, who is provided by the Trustees with railways, rail-waggons, &c and • Brown's History of Glasgow, Vol. ii. p. 175, 696 LANARKSHIRE. who receives, for depositing it on the ground, and for coi^eriDg it with two feet of good earth, taken from the surface of the grouDd in its original state, 7d. a cubic yard. The average height to which the ground is raised is 10 feet. In some places it is ele- vated about 1 5 feet The superficial extent of the whole is 68 acres. It is believed that the value of the farm, since the Trustees commenced their operations has been nearly doubled. Fishery. — The salmon-fishery was let for the first time about fifty years ago, to one tacksman, by the different heritors, whose lands give them a right to fish in the Clyde. The rent obtained was L. 30. Immediately afterward, the rent rose till it reached L. 326 annually. Since the year 1812, however, it has falleo, so that for the present lease of three years, the annual rent is only L.60. Produce. — The average gross value of the raw produce is sup- posed to be annually, as follows : Potatoes and turnips, 864 acres, at L. 18 per acre, L. 15,552 Wheal, 864 do. at L. 12 Oats, 864 do. at L. 9 Hay, 864 do. at L. 8 Pasture, 864 do. at L. 8 Gardens and orchards, Fisheries, .... Coals, - • - . • Quarries, ironstone, and brick- clay, Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 90,045 Manufactures. — In Hutchesontown and Tradeston, and the contiguous districts of the parish of Govan, there are 47 steam engines, with an aggregate of nearly 1300 horse power. More than a third of these are constructed on the high pressure prin- ciple. In the different cotton and power-loom factories, in the same part of the parish, in some of which bleaching and printing operations are also carried on, there are 90,500 mules, 23,308 throstles, and 3'297 looms, giving employment to between 4000 and 3000 people. In a factory recently established in Tradeston, 50 persons are employed, havjng the charge of 80 looms, in the weaving of satin, velvets, silk veils, sashes, &c. And near Port Eglinton, a carpet manufactory has been established for several years, in which 241 men, 150 women, 69 boys under fourteen years of age, and 94 girls are employed. The iron-works of Mr William Dixon claim a more particular description. The invention of the hot- blast by Mr James Beau- mont Neilson of Glasgow, was the commencement of a new era in the iron trade. Dr Andrew Ure,* a very competent authority, • Di Ure'K Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines, p. 694. London, 1839. do. 10368 do. 7,776 do. 6,912 do. 6,912 ■ - 1,875 . . 150 - 30,000 - 10,000 GOVAN. 697 has pronounced this 4o be '^ one of the greatest discoveries ever made in smelting and founding iron." The process, however, though it has been introduced into the works near Glasgow for several years, has as yet scarcely passed the borders of Scotland. ''^ Mr Dixon, in addition to similar works at Wilsontown and Calder, has erected two hot«blast furnaces, in the immediate neighbour- hood of his extensive collieries in this parish. Other two are now erectiDg, and will be in operation in the course of a few weeks. His intention is to erect eight in all, each of which will produce the average quantity of 4000 tons of pig iron annually. Near his blast furnaces, Mr Dixon is likewise constructing a bar- iron manufac- tory, in which he will have forty-two puddling furnaces. These, if kept constantly at work, will make, according to the lowest calcula- tion, 400 tons of bar-iron weekly. In the village of Govan, 81 men and 37 women are employed in a dye-work. The weekly wages of the men are from 1 2s. to 16s. and of the women, from 6s. to 7s. At a short distance from that village, a factory for throwing silk was erected in 1824. There was previously no work of the kind in any part of Scotland. The number of persons employed in this factory averages 250. Of these, the larger proportion are children, none of whom are under eight years of age. The grown up people are at work eleven hours a*day, and the children from ten to eleven hours. The factory ge- nerally stops at seven o'clock in the evening, with the exception of Saturdays, on which it stops at three o'clock in the afternoon. The wages of the men vary from 12s. to 18s., of the young women from 68. to 7s., and of the children from 2s. to 5s. a-week. The healthy appearance of the children connected with this work, in conse- quence of its lower temperature, and the great care that is taken to produce proper ventilation, f is in general very different from * Dr Ure*s Dictionary of Arts and Manufactures, p. 699. f Govan factory " is heated bv steam, and the steam pipes, instead of being sus. pcnded from the ceiling of each nat, are disposed in beds in the ground floor, within a few inches of the ground. Round the bottom of the ground floor arc perforations in the walls, through which is constantly rushing a current of fresh air, which, being bested and rarified by the steam beds, ascends from them through holes and pipes in the floor, to the upper stories, producing a constant supply of pure and warm air, from the bottom to the top of the &ctory. The benefit of this is evinced by the total absence of that feeling of suffocation met with in most other factories. The boiler is fed with boiling water, by means of a subsidiary boiler, which the proprietor has cal. led a CohiUe^ in honour of a young man Peter Colville, whose suggestion it was. Bcndes saving fuel, the operation of the steam is thereby more steady, not being denqped by the influx of water comparatively cold. The Colville is placed at the side of the large boiler, constituting for its length one side of the flue, and is thus kept boil- ing by that heat which otherwise would be lost in the wall.** Swan*s Views on the Clyde, with Leighton*8 Historical and Descriptive Illustrations, pp. 59-60. 698 LANARKSHIRE. the sallow complexions of those young creatures, whose unhappy destiny it is to be immured in a cotton factory. Erery beneTolent mind, however, must desire to see a well regulated fectoiy act, framed with a view to secure to children of both seies, before the; are admitted into our public works, the rudiments, at least, of a good Scriptural education. Since the year 1828, a power-loom fectory has been established in Partick, in which 160 indiriduals are em- ployed. In this factory the wages of the men are upon an ave- rage L. 1 a-week, and of the women from 5s. 6d. to 9s. 6d. Partick likewise contains a printfield, and a work for bleaching cot- ton fabrics, in which the whole of the operations are carried on within doors. About 160 persons are employed in the former, and 82 in the latter. In the printfield, the printers, when fully em- ployed, will earn from L.l,5s. to L.1, 10s. a-week. In the odier work, the weekly wages of the men, exclusive of labourers, are from 15s. to L.1, and of the females, 15 of whom are under eighteen years of age, from Ss. to 7s. a-week. Navigation. — A new quay, faced with blocks of granite, has been lately formed on the south side of the Clyde, immediately in front of Clyde Buildings, Tradeston. The length of it is about 2000 feet The Clyde has been widened and deepened at the same place. The Broom ielaw, therefore, presents the appearance now of a very capacious harbour. But the crowded state of the bertb on both sides of it already shows that the accommodation provided is not adequate to the rapidly increasing trade of the river.* V. — Parochial Economy. Barony ofGorbols, — The burgh of the barony and regality of Gorbals comprehends, along with the parish of Gorbals, the four districts of Hutchesontown, Laurieston, Tradeston, and Kingston in the parish of Govan. In 1687, this regality was disponed by the Archbishop of Glasgow to Sir George Elphinstone, who ob- tained from James VI. a charter of confirmation in 1611. In 1647, it was conveyed to the magistrates of Glasgow by Sir Ro- bert Douglas of Blaickerton, the nephew of Lord Belhaven, who had purchased it from the creditors of Sir George Elphinstonct In this way, the magistrates and council of that city have still the The amount of the tonnage and harbour dues for the year ending 8th July 1837, including L. 687, Is. 8d., the third instalment of redemption' dues on the lower stage(of the river, was L. 87503, Os. Id. ; for the year ending 8th July 1838, L. 38934, Is. 8i ; and for the year ending 8th July 1839, L. 45292, 4s. 2d. The progressive increise of the dues, previous to these dates, is shown in the account of the city of Glasffow in this work, p. 19a / •«» t Statement for Barony of Gorbals, by Henry Paul, Esq. chief magistrate of Gorbals, pp. 3-,5. Glasgow, 1834. i "«* GOVAN. 699 right of nominating the magistrates and councillors of the 'burgh of Gorbals; though, in point of fact, these are now elected by the P^iamentary constituency of the barony ; the magistrates and couDcil of Glasgow simply sanctioning the appointment of the per- sons thus elected. In every other respect, the Barony of Gorbals, which has a police establishment of its own, is independent of the city of Glasgow, though it forms a part of the same Parliamentary burgh, which, by the Reform Act, sends two members to Parlia* ment. Means of Communication. — That part of the parish which con- stitutes a portion of the Barony of Gorbals, and which is now one of the largest suburbs of Glasgow, enjoys, of course, in regard to means of communication, all the advantages which that city pos- sesses. In the villages of Govan and Partick, there are penny- post establishments, which transmit letters to and from Glasgow twice a-day. There are also two public conveyances, of the de- scription now known over the whole kingdom, under the name of omnibuses, which ply at different hours between these two villages and the neighbouring city. Four great roads pass through the parish. One of these connects Glasgow and the large manufac- turing town of Paisley. It is 48 feet broad, and, till it enters the county of Renfrew, it has an excellent foot-path on each side, for the convenience of the numerous foot-passengers who are sepn con- stantly travelling along it Another road leads to Kilmarnock and Ayr. The other two are nearly parallel with one another, and with the Clyde, which separates them. The one leads to Port- Glasgow and Greenock, through Renfrew ; and the other con- ducts to the West Highlands, through the town of Dumbarton. Since the last Statistical Account of the parish was written, ahorse and carriage boat has been put upon the ferry, which connects the two parts of the parish at the village of Govan. At this ferry all the steam-boats which ply on the Clyde, with the exception of those of the largest class, land and receive passengers. The Glas- gow and Johnstone Canal likewise passes through the parish, and for a short distance, the northern boundary of the parish is touch- ed by that branch of the Forth and Clyde Canal which joins the Clyde at Bowling-bay. Along with their other local advantages, the people of this parish have access to Glasgow by three bridges, besides the one which connects Gorbals with Glasgow. The Glasgow bridge, which is built of granite, is a magniBcent struc- ture. It connects the parish of Govan with Glasgow, immediate- 700 LANARKSHIRE. ly above the Broomielaw, and forms the principal entrance to that city from the west. The length of it is 500 feet, and it is 50 feet broad within the parapets, the roadway being 32 feet, and each of the side paths 9 feet. This bridge is consequently several feet wider than Waterloo Bridge, London. The day on which it was opened was the 1st of January 1836, and the cost of the erection was L. 34,427, 18s. lid. The architect was our celebrated coun- tryman, the late Thomas Telford, Esq. During the time the Glasgow bridge was rebuilding, the public had the use of a wooden bridge, which was placed opposite Portland Street, Laurieston. This temporary erection is now closed against horses and carriages, but it is still open to foot-passengers. A wooden bridge was for- merly placed at the foot of Crown Street, Hutchesontown. A handsome bridge, built of stone, which was substituted for this, and which cost L.22,440, 3s. 4d., was opened to the public in June 1834. The Glasgow and Greenock and the Glasgow and Ayr railways, the operations of which are already far advanced, are ex- pected to be completed in the course of another year. The line common to both, till it reaches the town of Paisley, will pass through this parish for about three miles. It may be interesting, perhaps,'to some to see the accompanying statement of the amount of tolls received by the trustees of three of the principal turnpike roads in the parish, for the years specified. The Renfrew road, it will be perceived, is the only one whose revenues have not kept pace with the increasing traffic of the country. The period when these began to decline is connected with the introduction of steam- boats into the Clyde. Prior to this important era, there was con- stant travelling on the Renfrew road by persons proceeding to and from Glasgow and Greenock.^ Daily communication was kept up betwixt these two places by means of carriers' waggons and stage- coaches, which are no longer found necessary. I. Rental of the Parkhouse Toll-bar for the Three-mile house and Renfrew roads, at the time they constituted one trust : Rental from 15th May 1780 to 15th May 1781 L.143 1781 1782 180 1782 1783 200 1783 1784 170 1784 1785 184 1785 1786 - 186 1786 1787 186 1787 1788 217 1788 1789 190 1789 1790 232 1790 1791 ™ 236 1791 1792 ™ 260 1792 . 1793 270 1793 1794 268 t GOVAN. 701 J. Rental of the Parkhouse Toll-bar, after each under a sepa^te trust : road was placed KenUl fro m 1 hree m lie Hoi: tKe ] load. Renfrew Road. 5th May 1794 to 15th May 1795 L.296 8 ^ L.180 1795 1796 356 „ 200 1796 1797 351 — 200 1797 1798 390 440 1796 1799 446 „ 455 1799 1800 551 ^ 510 1800 1801 540 „ 528 1801 1802 750 _ 530 1802 1803 867 575 1803 1804 1075 „ 780 1804 1805 950 613 1805 18()6 1191 617 1806 1807 1120 „ 640 1807 1806 1270 „ 670 18()8 1809 1170 ™ 638 1809 1810 1555 „ 308 1810 1811 1730 „ 420 1811 1812 1354 .^ 530 1812 1813 1000 ™ 690 1813 1814 895 735 1814 1815 990 „ 765 1815 1816 905 _ 800 1816 1817 960 „ 855 1817 1818 955 „ 800 1818 1819 800 „ 780 1819 1820 555 „ 860 1820 1821 550 „ 705 1821 1822 590 „ 720 1822 1823 545 „ 630 1823 1824 675 „ 625 1824 1825 1380 „ 785 1825 1826 1460 830 1826 1827 1470 ™ 835 1827 1828 1315 ^ 750 1828 1829 1210 „ 610 1829 1830 1205 „ 600 1830 1831 1270 635 1831 1832 1408 18 5 669 1832 1833 1166 13 4 „ 583 6 8 1833 1834 1276 13 4 638 6 8 1834 1835 1270 ^ 635 1835 1836 1306 13 4 „ 570 1836 1837 1436 13 4 593 6 8 1837 .ia38 1550 „ 650 1838 1839 1590 670 1839 1840 1806 13 778 6 8 III. Rental of Gorbals and Muirhouses Toll-bars. Years. i ^pnual rentals. Years. Annual rentab 1800—1 L.900 1810—11 - L.2060 1801—2 1020 1811—12 2600 1802—3 1300 1812—13 2750 1803—4 1470 1813—14 2730 1804—5 1255 1814—15 2895 1806—6 1340 1815—16 3155 1806—7 1190 1 1816—17 3200 1807—8 1463 1 1817—18 3315 1806—9 1205 1818—19 3670 1809—10 1270 i 1819—20 4000 702 LANARKSHIRE. Yews. AoinmI veatak. 1880u-dl - L.2455 18S1— 32 - 2850 18a2-.d3 . 9SD5 1833-34 - 3000 1834—35 - 3220 1835—36 - 3060 1836—37 - 4010 1837—38 - 3980 1888—39 - 4SeO 1839—40 4440 Yenrt. Anniud rentals. 1820—21 - L.3505 A 1821-22 - 3400 1822—23 - asOO 1823-24 - 3535 1824—25 - 3760 1825—26 . 4300 1826—27 - 4170 - 1827—28 . 2618 1828—29 - dl05 1820—30 - 2960 Ecclesiastical State. — David L, whom Hector Boethius* teUs us, the first James pronounced to have been a sore saint to the Crown, bestowed the lands of Grovan (Guvan cum suis diYisis,-|-) upon the Church of St Kentigern, or, as he was also called, St Mungo. In 1136, the same monarch, when present at the consecration of the Cathedral, after it had been rebuilt, gave likewise t6 the see of Glasgow a part of the lands of Perteyc or Partick, and he after- wards added to this the grant of another portion of the same lands. X The rights and privileges conferred by these and similar benefactions were confirmed to the church of St Mungo by bulls from the following popes : Alexander III., Lucius IIL, Urban IIL, and Honorius III.§ The prebend of Govan was instituted by Bishop John, commonly called Achaian, who died on the 2Sth of May 1 147, and was buried at Jedburgh, after having filled the Episcopal chair for thirty-two years. The emoluments of the prebend were increased by Bishop Herbert, who was Chancellor of Scotland, and presided over the diocese till the year 1 164. He made Help his clerk prebendary. || In 1319, on the 20th of * Hist. Scot. lib. xii. cap. 17. f Cart. Glasg. Tom. i. p. 8. ^ Id. pp. 5, 12. Spot. Hist. p. 112. Cronica dc Melrose, p. 6. MS. in Bib. Ad. The lands of Partick, Perteyc, Perdeyc, Perthec, Perdbeyc, or Perthdc, as the name is variously spelled in different charters, anciently comprehended a portion Perthec. Registrum Monasterii de Passelet, pp. 11, 409,411.) This island is ob- viously the King*$ Inch, and the Perthec referred to is clearly Wester Partick, which, with the lands of Blawerthill, was in 1452 conveyed by James II. to the Stewarts of Arthurlie. It was afterwards possessed by the Maxwells of Pollok, and now be- longs to Mr Speirs of Elderslie. (Crawfurd*8 Hist, of Renfrewshire with cont. pp. 9, 67, 284, 341, 343.) At a still earlier period, Wester Partick appears to have been vested in the family of Pollock. William, King of Scotland, gave a charter of con- firmation to the church of St Mirin, and the monks of Paisley of " illam donationem quam Helias de Pertheic eis fecit per concessionem Petri de Polloc fratris sui, de ecclesia de Mernes." (Reg. Mon. de Pass. p. 100.) The name Partick was pro- bably derived from particate (particata). David 1. granted to the church of Holy- rood, a house in Renfrew, " I^Ye pariicates, and one draught of a net for salmon.'* (Mackle's Hist. Desc. of Monastery, &c. of Holyroodhouse, p. 17.) A particate was " ane ruid of land." Skene de Verbor. Signif. § Cart. Glasg. Tom. i. pp. 29, 65, 103, 141. II Id. pp. 12, 13. Keith's Hist. Cat. of Scot. Bishops, pp. 231,232. EdiD. 1824. GOVAN. 703 July, the see of Glasgow being vacant, Edward II of England, who was then at York, appointed to the prebend of Govan, in the church of Glasgow, " Johannes de Lund."* This unfortunate Prince, in the course of that summer, made an unsuccessful at- tempt to regain possession of Berwick, and to recover his lost power in Scotland. He was not in a good condition, therefore, to enforce respect to his presentation, which was perhaps never seen by the chapter of Glasgow, The name of William de Govan, one of the canons of the church of Glasgow, appears in various old charters.*!^ His name is also attached to an inventory I of all the ornaments, * Rym. Feed. Tom. iii. p. 785. His name was probably Lundy. A Sir Richard Limdj, a Scotchman of birth and family, attached to the interests of the first Edward, 18 mentioDed by Hume. (Hist, of £ng. Vol. ii. p. 2B5, Lond. 1825.) There was, in the Cathedral Church of Glasgow, in 1401 , a grievous deficiency of canonical irvttments. and other <^ pleasand playokis,** as Andro de Wyntoun oddly terms them. (Crooykil of Scotland, B. ix. C. ri.) To supply this deficiency, (grandem et detes- talnlem omamentorum defectum), the Bishop, with the concurrence of the Dean and Cbapter, imposed upon each of the prebendaries, a tax, which was regulated by the amoant of their respective incomes. The sum paid by the prebendary of Govan was 40 >hillings(40 solidos, not L. 3, as is erroneously stated by Chalmers, Caled* Vol. iii« p. 675.) Cart. Glasg. Tom. i. p. 454. t Id. pp. 559,571,575. ^ Id. pp. 527—542. Along with numerous gold and silver chalices, patines, cru- cHlzes, censers, fonts, pastoral staves, owches, rings, and a variety of splendid vest- ments, for the use of the Bishop and the officiating Priests, we find in this curious eolleetion, two silver crosses gilt, adorned with precious stones, and having inserted in each of them a small firagment of the original cross, (una particula ligni Domini) ; a part of the girdle, a few hairs, and some of the milk of the blessed Virgin ; a part of tile manger in which our Saviour was laid ; part of the scourges of St Kentigern and 8c Thomas of Canterbury ; part of the hairy shirt of the patron saint ; part of the skin of St Bartholomew ; part of the cloak of St Martin ; and two sacks of the bones of known and unknown saints ; (duo sacculilinei cum ossibus S. Kentigemi, Sancti Teiiau, et aliorum decessorum Sanctorum). The price of relics fell wonderfully after the Reformation. Frederic, Elector of Saxony, in the early part of his reign, col- lected these from every part of Europe. Burcardi, a German monk, was employed to procure some for him in Italy. These were afterwards returned by Spalatinus, the Secretary of Frederic, along with a letter to Burcardi, dated 28th of July 1522, in which he says, ** you will receive all the relics you sent to us, and also the cross, to be sold by you for what you can get for them. For here, even the common people have so far changed their opinions, that they think it enough for them, as it certainly is, to be instructed by the word of God, and to have faith and confidence in God, and love to their neighbour.** (Sockendorf, Com. Hist, et Apol. de Lutheranismo, lib. L p. 223w Lipsiae, 1694. Bayle Diet. Art. Vergerius.) James Beatoun, Archbishop of Glasgow, when he retired to France with the French fleet in 1560, took along with him the plate, chartulary, and other things of value belonging to the Cathedral. Some of these he ordered to be deposited, after his death, in the monastery of the Carthusians at Paris, and others in the Scots College there, ** appointing the same to be delivered how soon Glasgow fhould become Catholic.** We do not perceive in the inventory *^ the image of our Saviour in beaten gold, and the portraits of the twelve apostles in silver which Spotswood speaks of. (Hist. p. 477.) Neither are these taken notice of in the description of the records, images, crosses, and relics, carried off by Beatoun, which was sent from Paris to Dr M^Kcnzie, in the beginning of the hut century. (M'KeDzie*s Lives, Vol. iii. p. 465. Edin. 1722.) With re- gard to the chartulary, Dr Gordon, Principal of the Scots College, Paris, caused a copy of it to be taken in 1766, for the purpose of presenting it to the University of Glasgow. This he did, through Professor Cumin, who was in Paris at that time. (Brown, Hist, of Glasg. Vol. ii. p. 74.) The original, along with other valuable 704 LANARKSHIKE. relics, and jewels of the church of Glasgow made by commaDd of the Lord Bishop and chapter on the 24th of March 1432. Mr Thomas Cameron,* canon of Glasgow, and prebendary of Govan, was elected Rector of the University on the 25th of Oc- tober 1453. He was the prothonotary of the Pope. An obitf was founded for him in the church of Glasgow. Johannes Oter- burn,:|: prebendary of Govan, subscribed, in 1480, along with the other canons, and the Dean of the Cathedral, a deed increasing the salaries of the vicar's choral (vicariorum chori), serving in their respective stalls. Malcolm Durans^ § one of the canons and pre- bendary of Govan, founded in 1497, in the church of Glasgow, a chapellany of the Holy Cross. He was probably succeeded by Walter Betoun. For in the year 1525, Adam Colquhoun, oflGi- cial of Glasgow, publishes an apostolical letter from Clement VII. which is witnessed by Walter Betoun, Rector of Govan. ( Waltero Betoun, Rectorede Gowan{|). Two years after this the rector of Govan obtained the unenviable celebrity of being one of those who, in the city of St Andrews, assisted at the trial, and signed the sentence of Patrick Haniilton,f the 6rst Protestant martyr in Scotland. The last Popish incumbent of Govan was Stephen Beatoun. He was presented to the parsonage and vicarage of Govan on the 3d of October 1561, by the Queen, jure corona. Like many others of the Popish clergy, he was permitted to retain the temporalities of his office, as long as he lived. He abused this indulgence, by giving, immediately before he died, a lease of the tcinds for nineteen years, to his brother, Archibald Beatoun,** chantor of Moray. Though, therefore, the College of Glasgow got a gift of the beneBce at the death of Stephen Beatoun, all that they obtained from it for nearly twenty years, was not more than 300 merks annually.-f-f MSS. was brought to this country at the time of the French Revolution by Abbe Macpherson, a member of the Scots College^ who placed it in the bands of the learn- ed author of Caledonia. • Annales. Univ. Glasg. t Chalmer*s Caled. Vol. iii. p. 675. :;: Cart. Glasg. Tom. ii. p 759. § Id. p. 963. || Id. p. 1115. 1 Spot. Hist p. 63. •• This was one of the " twa read nebbit teadesi' which Mr Peter Blackburn, the oeconomus or steward, of the College, saw in his dream, leap out of *' a cup fiiil of barmic drink" when seated, as he supposed himself to be, at the College table. James Melville's Diary, pp 49, 50, apud M'Crie's Life of Melville, Vol. i. p. 435. ft Nova Erectio, Evidence of University Commissioners, University of Glasgow, Vol. ii. p. 239, printed 1837. Information for College of Glasgow against Hcrit. of Govan, 1795. p. 9. Statistical Account of University of Glasgow in former Sta- tistical Account of Scotland, Vol. xxi. Appendix, p. 20. The Rector of Govan. being one of the thirty -two prebendaries of the Cathedral, had a parsonage house in the Kottenrow. (MaiteMiistory of Glasgow, p. 46, reprinted 1830.) Misplace GOVAN. 705 Previous to the death of Stephen Beatoun> Mr James Gibson was appointed an exhorter in the parish. As it was impossible for many years after the commencement of the Reformation, to pro- vide ministers for all the parishes in Scotland, exhortersand readers were substituted for them in many places. The provision allowed to the exhorter of Govan, out of the patrimony of the church, was very scanty. If he was passing rich, it must have been with forty merks a-year.* Since the Keformation, there have been sixteen ministers in the parish of Govan ; 1. Mr Andrew Melville ;f 2. Mr Thomas Smeton ; 3. Mr Patrick Sharpe. There is a short memoir of him written by the indefatigable Wodrow. When he drew up that memoir, Wodrow does not seem to have been cer- tain whether or not Patrick Sharpe ever officiated as minister of Grovan. But the name of ^^ Mr Patrick Schairp, Principall in the College, Minister at Govane," appears in the very first minutes which have been preserved of the proceedings of the Presbytery of Glasgow.:]^ On the 4th of March 1607, he was appointed con- st Govan was supplied by a curate or viear pensioner. '* The sessioun ordains Ro- bert Ingramme to bring his testimonial! yis day aucht dayes, fra ye vicare of Goyane, be quhom ye said Robert alledges him to be mareit with . Gibson, with quhom he haldis house, quilk testimonial! most contein ye tymc and place of their marriage.*' (Glasgow Session Records, 22d July 158d.) A " capellanus de Guvan** is mention- ed in R^ist. Monast. de Pass. p. 1 75. This was probably the chaplain of the Lady Altar in the Church of Govan. At the Reformation, James Hill, the chaplain of ibt Lady Altar of Govan, reported that the chaplainry produced 12 bolls of oats, 3 bolls of meal, and L. 1, 6s. in money, MS. Rental Book, p. 26. Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol iii. p. 676. * <* Goven, James Gibson, Exhortar, xL mcrkis.** Regist. of Min. Exhort, &c. p. 31. Printed by Maitland Club, 183a -f The Foundation Charter, entitled Nova Erectlo, dated 13th of July 1577, which was i^ranted to the College of Glasgow, by the Earl of Morton, during the minority of James VI., and which conveyed to the college the rectory and vicarage of the pa., riab church of Govan, provided, that while the Principal was to reside in the college, and discharge other important duties, he was to preach every Lord's day to the peo- ple of Govan, for, says the charter, *^ we have thought it to be right, when our college is supported out of the tythes and revenues of that church, that they who provide temporal things should receive spiritual things, and not be defrauded of the bread of liJSe, which is the word of God.** As Principal, Melville was allowed, by the charter, 200 merks annually, and for discharging the functions of minister of Govan, three chalders of grain, while he.and the three regents had upheld for them, out of the funds of the college, a common table, (" sine luxu et profusione.*') It was like- wiae enjoined by the charter that, out of the teinds of Govan, four bursars should be boarded at the college table, and that, in appointing these, care should be taken, ** not to admit the rich in place of the ^por, and that drones do not feed on * alvearia,"* (Kova Erectio, ut supra.) These four bursars were boarded in the college till the Revolution, when the common table was given up. They now receive, as an allow- ance for their board, L. 10 annually. ( Rep. of Univ. Com. p. 272. Printed 1831.) This is understood to be a liberal sura, as in 1578, the value of ten bolls of oatmeal was thought sufficient for the maintenance of a single bursar. (Idem. p. 227.) The right of presenting to these bursaries is, by the charter, vesteti in the Earl of Morton and his heirs. But it does not appear that this right, though claimed by his present Lordship, has ever been exercised by any of his family- Tt^e iMncipal and profes- iort, so &r as is known, have always been accustomed to present.— Id. pp. 235, 271. X Presb. Rec. " Vigesimo quarto die mensis OctobrU \59i.'* '*'' >i\i Y^XxviV 106 LANARKSHIRB. staDt moderator of the Presbytery, by a letter from His Majes^s Council, which was presented by the Earl of Aberconu* Tim affairs of the college having become embarrassed, througb suppoa- ed mismanagement on his part,f Principal Sharpe was induced to demit his office on the 11th of August 1614. He died in May 16 1 54 4. Mr Robert Boyd. 5; Mr James Sharpe. He was elected one of the regents of the College of Glasgow on the 15th of October 16l0.§ After being minister of Govan for about eighteen years, he was translated to Leith in 1539, on the presen- tation of Lord Balmerino, and with the unanimous consent of the General Assembly, having succeeded Mr William Wishart,|| par- son of Restalrig, who was deposed by the Assembly that met the preceding year at Glasgow. He died in 1645,Y a victim, it is sup- posed, to the plague, as in the course of that year not fewer than 2736 persons, in the town of Leith, were carried off by this fearful malady ; being more than one-half of the whole population. Prin- cipal Baillie classes James Sharpe among the eminent men belong- ing to the College of Glasgow, when he was first connected to it** 6. Mr William Wilkie. Like the minister who preceded and the one who followed him, he was, previous to his appoint- ment to the parish of Govan, a regentff in the College of Glasgow. He produced to the presbytery from the College a presentation in his own favour, on the 22d of January 16404t Mr William Sharpe and Elizabet Jak cotentit to marre for pcrformlng'ofmarrage betwixt yaine» and making of na brydellis, his friend Mr Blaise Laurie, [one of the regents of the college,] cautioner and souertie for yaiue vnder the pain of ten lib. money.** Glas. Ses. Rec 19th August 1591. • Glasg. Presb. Rec. t Wodrow, MSS. Life of Boyd, Vol. xv. pp. 68, 64. 4: Com. Rec. Glasg. " Tlio brethren having read and conslderit the paines and travills taken be Mr Patrick Scharp, Principall of the Colledge of Glasgow, and hix lessones, upon the catechisme and grounds of religione, allowes of the same, and thinks them very necessar and profitable, and therefore ordaynes them to be printed." (Perth. Assembly, 14th March 1597. Book of Univ. Kirk, p. 476.) Dempster, who calls Sharpe, •* vir eruditus,** says of him, ** Graece ac Latine multa edidit Ego vidi tantum in orationem Dominicam commentarium, ex Patribus Graecis La* tinisque." (Hist. Eccl. Gent. Scot. Tom. ii. p. 600.) The only work of his which I have seen, is a small duodecimo volume, having for its title, " Doctrinae Christi- anae brevis explicntio. Edin. 1599.** It is a commentary on the three first chapters of Genesis, the Apostles* creed, the sacraments, the decalogue, and the Lord*8 prayer. § Annales Coll. Glasg. H Records of Kirk of Scot. Edited by A. Peterkin, p. 256. 1 Rec. of Kirk Ses. of South Leith. •• Bodii, Prelcctiones ad Ephcs, Epist ad Lectorem, p. i. ft " By a recommendation of the General Assembly, not long after our Reforma- tion from Popery, the regents were only to continue eight years in their profession, after which, such as were found qualified were licensed, and upon calls after trials admitted to the holy ministry.*' Truth's Victory over Error, Glasgow, 1725, preface by Robert Wodrow, p. xi. t J Glasg. Presb. Recoids. GOVAN. 707 Wilkie was one of the commissioners appointed by the General Assembly in 1642, to visit the College of Glasgow, when, among other things, the commissioners ordained, that the Greek text of Aristotle should be analysed viva voce^ and thereafter the sense of the text written ; that the disputation of the students should con- tinue in their classes, and in the public schools ; that the students in private should speak Latin, that they should be exercised in law- ful games, such as golf, archery, and the like, and abstain from all games that are unlawful, as carding, dicing, and such others as are prohibited by their laws ; and that every master should educate his own students through all the four classes.* The synod de- posed Wilkie on the 29th of April 1649. He was accused and convicted of not preaching against Hamilton's engagement, of as- sociating with malignants, and of being remiss in the exercise of discipline.i* Principal Baillie, who presided at the first presby- terial visitation for investigating the charges which were brought against him, thought he was treated with undue severity.]: 7. Mr Hugh Binning. Bi Mr David Veitch. Being a protester, he could not obtain license from the presbytery of St Andrews. He there- fore presented himself for the purpose of being licensed by them to the presbytery of Biggar, to whom the famous Samuel Ruther- ford gave this strong testimonial respecting him, that ^* the like of Mr Veitch in his age for great leaminff and piety, he had never known." The heritors and elders of Oovan elected him to be their minister, on the 14th of May 1654.§ It was the intention of Mr James Durham, minister of the Inner High Church of Glasgow, to nominate him to be his successor, with the permission of the Town-Council. Being reminded of this on his deathbed, he said, ** Mr David Veitch is too ripe for heaven to be translated to any church on earth. He will be there almost as soon as I." His words proved prophetic Mr Veitch preached to his parishioners, and took a solemn leave of them, on the Sabbath immediately after his pious friend's death, and expired on the following Friday. || He was but twenty-seven years old when he terminated his earthly career. Wodrow represents him to have been an admirable scholar, and k man of great piety. He likewise says, that he was a most laborious • Regist. of Gen. Ass. apud Evid. of Royal Com. Univ. of Glasg. VoL ii. pp. 258,260. J Glasg. Pres. Rec. t Letters, Vol. ii. p. 38a Govan Session Records. I Mem. of Veitch and Brysson, edited by Dr M*Crie, pp. 14, 17. 708 LANRRKSHIRE. minister, and particularly acceptable as a preacher to the peopleofhis parish.* 9. Mr Alexander Jamieson. He was a regent in St Andrewst in the College of St Leonards. There is a very graphic account of his election to that office, according Co the mode of the timet in Lament's Diary. (Edin. p. 5.) He was chosen to be minis- ter of Govan on the 26th of March 1659, after he bad preached twice on that day in the parish church. Sir George Maxwell of Nether Pollock, along with three other heritors and the elders of the parish, were appointed to ^^ goe and signifie their unanimi- tie in calling of him unto the ministrie.^i* He was afterwards married to a sister of Sir George MaxwelLj It was by the fatal act of council passed at Glasgow, October 1st 1662, that he was dispossessed of his charge. Mr Jamieson was one of the nine " suffering Presbyterian ministers," who, in 1673, licensed Pro- fessor Wodrow, the father of the historian, to preach the gospel He was considered one of the most acute philosophers and pro- found theologians at that time in Scotland, and, as Wodrow in- forms us, he had no small share in preparing the ^^ Apology for persecuted Ministers," which was published not long after this.} In the act of council dated " Halyrudhouse, September 8^ 1672," Alexander Jamieson was ordered to confine himself to the parish of Killallan, in the diocese of Glasgow, in which he was to be allowed to discharge, along with other ministers similarly situated in other parishes, some of his ecclesiastical functions, and to receive a small proportion of the parochial stipend, upon certain conditions. || But he was one of ten ministers* who met to draw up reasons for refusing the Indulgence, as it was termed.f 10. Mr John Hay. Some presbyteries were completely broken up by the ejection of the non-conforming clergy, who were compelled by ' the Act of Council, dated Edinburgh, August 13th 166^ • Analecta, Vol. iv. p. 170. iMSS. in Bib. Ad. f Govan Session Records. :^ Wodrow, Analecta, Vol. iv. pp. 213, 216. In those days, when the belief in witch- craft was almost universal, Sir George Maxwell was thought to have been deprived of life by means of the incantations of four witches and a wizard, who were burned for this supposed crime at Paisley, on the 20th of February 1677. The evidence upon which these poor creatures were convicted is detailed at length in a letter which hii son Lord Pollock, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, wrote to Professor Sinclair, and which is published in Sinclair*s " Satan's Invisible World Discovered," — (pp. I — 18. ) We are told that it was suspected at the time, that Janet Mathie, the principal witch, *■* had also wronged Mr Jamieson, minister at Gov;in." Law's Me- mor. pp. Ill, 120, 127. See also prefatory notice by the editor, p. Ixxiv.. § Wodrow's Hist of Ch. of Scot. Vol. i. p. 828. Life of Professor Wodrow, by his son, p. 54. II Hist, of Indulgence, p. 85. Id. p. 48. ^ Wodrow, Hist, of Ch. of Scot. Vol. i>. 227. 1> GOVAN. 709 to remove with their families, twentv miles from their former parishes, six miles from any cathedral church, and three miles from a burgh. The archbishop, therefore, and the diocesan sy- nod issued an order, requiring that, wherever four or five ministers could be brought together, they should constitute themselves into a presbytery in the old presbytery seats. In compliance with this order, a few ministers met at Paisley, on the 29th of October 1663). along with " Mr John Hay and Mr William Forbes of the pres- biterie of Glasgow — correspondents for a time to assist them. Mr Hay is called in their minutes, " Mr John Hay, younger, to distinguish him from Mr John Hay, parson of Renfrew.* 11. Mr Gabriel Russell. On the 28th of February 1666, he pro- duced to the presbytery, " severall testimonials from Jedburgh and the Colledge of Aberdeen, where he was ane student."-f- By appointment of the archbishop, he received institution in Septem- ber 1667, at the hands of the moderator, who, after prayer and thanksgiving, delivered to him ^^ the Bible and keyes of the kirk ; and immediately passed to the manse and gleib and gave him in- feftment thereof.'':|: 12. Mr John Pettigrew. When James VIL, with the secret design of re-establishing Popery, suspended, in * Rcc. of Pabley Prcsb. The writer has not been able to discover the date of Mr Hay's institution to the benefice, as both thf siss'on and presbytery records of the period have been losu But on the 19ih of November 16 at the parish church of Kilbrydc, preparatory to the institution of Mr James Crichton, as minis- ter of that parish. (Glasg. Presb. Ilec.) Indeed, the wliolc oftlie Glasgow Presby- tery Records, previous to 1774, are in a very imperfect state, ha\-ingbccn greatly in- jured by the fire, which destroyed the Laigh Church and session -house, on the 8th f>f February 1793. This calamity is the more to be deplored that, after having been missing for about a hundred years, nine volumes of these records had been restored to the Presb}tery only the|year before. (Denholm, Hist, of Glasg. p. 96. Cleland*s Annals of Glasg. Vol. ii. p. 47.% 479.) As they cannot now be handled even with the utmost care, without sustaining injury, a copy has been taken at considerable ex- pense, of what is legible of them, from the years I5'J2 to 1627. If the remaining Tolumes are not transcribed soon, as they are almost in a state of tinder, their con- tents, as an authentic memorial of the times, will be irrecoverably lost. f Glasg. Prcsb.* Hec. A contemporary historian says, that the curates, as the coun- try people called them, •' were fetched almost wholly out.of the north country, where they found a sort of young lads, unstudied and unbred, wlio had all the properties of Jeroboam's priests, most of them of two or three years standing." (Kirkton, Hist, of Ch. of Scot. p. 160.) Nor is the descriptiw's Hist, of Cli. of Scot. VoK.iv. p. 434. About two years bifore this, at r<>lin:i(lio, a party of soldiL-rs from Glasj^ow, uiulcrthe command of Major Balfi>iir, shot three men in ei)lii bK>ocI, because they would not pray in express ternis for Kicg James VII. (Id. p. 'JoO.) " .After the libertie in July 1(»S7, by the appointinmt of the genill metin«jj at Kdinr, in August in ye year forsd, the presbyteries of Olas- j?«)\v, Paisley, and Dunibartone, did join together and made up ane prcbylcric, by reason of the paucitie (>f miners, which continued wntill Deer of ye sd year." Keeords of l*resbvterv of Paislev. + Glasgow Presbylery Hecoids. X (M)van Kirk Session Ilccords. § The facetiae of Mr Pettigrew and Mr Thom, though both much famed for their caustic wit and humour, have not yet found their way, that I am aware of, into any published collection of mfmorahh and uliti/ sai/hnrg. The satirical vein of Mr Thoni, however, may be seen in a small volume of his, consisting of sermons, tracts, letters, &c. printed at Glasgow, 1799. ^ II 'I'he case of Mr 'J'hom wjjs not quite correctly reported by Rolwrt Whighafflt Esq. Advocate, when giving his evidence before the Select Committeeof the Housvof ("ommons, appointed to consider the past and jjresent state of the I-.aw of Church Pa- tronage in Scotland. He svvipe;vT^ Vo Vv«s« \.Vvou^lit (Minutes of Evidences, pp. ^^i (iOVAN. 7 1 I of Glat^w and Ayr. 15. Dr John Pollock, who was ordained to his pastoral charge on the 21st of July 1791, and died on the 7th of May 1820. The education of the young, to which he just- ly attached great importance, occupied a large share of the atten- tion of Dr Pollock. Nor was he less distinguished for his judi- cious and humane management of the affairs of the poor. The present incumbent received ordination as minister of this parish on the 1st of March 1821. The parish church, which is beautifully situated at the west end of the tillage of Govan, and within 300 feet of the river Clyde, was built in 1826, according to a plan furnished by Mr Smith of Jordanhill. Its distance from Glasofow is about three miles. It is a simple Gothic structure, with lancet windows and battlements, and is capable of containing nearly 1100 persons. The design of the tower and the spire rising from it was taken from the church of Stratford-upon-Avon. The churchyard, in which " the hallow- ed fane" is placed, and which is raised several feet above the ad- jacent ground, is surrounded by a double ^^ row of reverend elms, — long lashed by the rude winds."' * The manse is placed, as it ought to be, near the church. There was a considerable addition made to it a few years ago, so that there is now ample accommo- dation for a minister's family. The glebe, which consists of seven acres, has been supposed to be worth L. 25 annually. The sti- pend is 10 chalders of meni, and JO chalders of barley. It was augmented in the year 1818. It must have been very inconvenient for the inhabitants of Gorbals to attend the parish church of Go- van. But no attempt appears to have been made to erect a place of worship in that quarter, till after the beginning of the last cen- tury. On the 30th of May 1728, the heritors of Govan unani- 449,) that it was a case ^' upon the principle of the Act 1690, or where tlie patron waived his right of presenting iu fiivour of the heritors, elders, and heads of families,'* w he re M it was the college who presented. He was hlcewise led to believe that **• the pttrons offered a Icet of two young men, after having indulged the parish with a hflsring of four.** It was not the patrons, however, but the presbytery, without any eommunication with the patrons, who allowed the parish to have a hearing of the four probationers. And what the patrons offered to a. deputation from the heritors and dden on the 5th of May, was, that *' they would indulge them with 'a leet of two out of tba tour who had preached before them, provided that, upon the twenty sixth of Ifiaj instant, they came instructed to declare, that the majority of heritors and eldov voold choose one of these two ko named by the University." This proposal was de- clinod. The college, therefore, on the 26th of May, resolved by a majority, to pre • aent Mr Thom, Professor Anderson, desiring " to have it markc the river Clyde; and tbebury^ ing place of the said village, bounded on the north by the highway leading to RutbcT^ glen, from the Gorlwls ; on the east and south, by the lands of Mr Rae of Litil^ Govan ; and on the wesl, b>' Saudvfold-burn, from the present parish of Govan. "—D^:?^ cieet of Disjunction. GOVAN. 713 lies to the east of the town of Gorbals. This was objected to on the part of the feuars of Gorbals. On the 27th of March 1771, however, little more than one month after the parish of Gorbals had been separated from Govan by the Teind Court, the remain- ing part of the barony of Gorbals, with the lands of Little Govan and Polmadie, in the parish of Govan, was annexed quoad sacra to the new parish of Gorbals, by the presbytery of Glasgow. In the course of the last five years, three additional churches in connexion with the Church of Scotland have been built in the pa- rish of Govan. These have all had assigned t<0 them parochial districts, quoad sacra, each containing a population not exceeding 3000. Partick Church, the first that was built, was opened for pub- lic worship on the 23d of March 1834. It has accommodation for 580 persons, and cost, exclusive of the ground, about L.1000. The funds for erecting it were furnished by private subscription. The Rev. Robert Paisley, the present minister, was ordained on the 18th of August 1836. Hutchesontown Church had divine service performed in it for the first time on the 24th of March 1839. This church owes its existence to the munificence of the Glasgow Church Building Society, and to the Christian benevolence of a number of individuals connected with the district, who subscribed to the object L. 881. It is capable of holding 1024 persons, and has had expended upon it nearly L. 2600. On the presentation of the Church Building Society the Rev. Alexander S. Paterson was appointed minister of Hutchesontown Church, and inducted on the 25th of April 1839, having been previously minister of a chapel in Whitehaven. Kingston Church was likewise completed this year. It was built by the friends of the Rev. James Gibson, with the design of presenting him to it, as an appropriate testimony of their respect for his talents and character, and with a view at the same time of providing an overgrown parish with an additional place of worship. The cost of it was about L. 3000, and there is accommodation in it for 1000 persons. Mr Gibson was inducted on the .13th of June. The Church Building Society are about to erect another church in this parish, for which they have bought a siteio Warwick Street, Lauriston. Since the year 1833, Strath- bungo has been occupied as a missionary station, by a licentiate of the Church of Scotland. It is likewise proposed to build a church in that neighbourhood. Nearly the whole of the necessary funds have already been obtained, and ground for a site has been given by the patrons of Hutcheson's Hospital. There are, in difierent districts of the parish, three places of wor- '714 LANARKSHIRE. ship connected with the United Secession Sjnod, besides a scbool- house in the village of Govan, in which there has been service re- gularly for the last two years, and which amy be capable of ood- taining about 100 persons. Names of Miniften. Where utiiated. When buih. No. of SittiBgib Stipeodiftc. Rer. James Smith,* Nicholson St. Laurieston, I814>t 910, UQ30 Rer. J. Johnstone, Eglinton Street, do. 1825, 1218, 2K Rey. J. Skinner,* Partick, 1824, 600, 140 In the parish there are two Relief churches. Names of Ministers. Where situated. When built. No. of Sittings. Scncnd. RcT. William Thomson, Hutchesontown ,1800, 1G24, L. 900 Rar. Robert Wilso|^ Partick, 1^4, 840, ISO 9 The chapel in Tradeston, which belonged to the Weslejan Methodists, has been bought and taken down by the Glasgow and Greenock and the Glasgow and Ayr Railway G>mpaDieSy as they intend to have their terminus here. The Roman Ci- tholics likewise have a chapel in this paristk It is situated b Portugal Street. This chapel was built for a school-house, io which the children attending it were educated according to the Lancasterian system. The Roman Catholics bought it io 1824 for L. 509. It is under the immediate superintendence of the Roman Catholic clergymen of Glasgow. In 1836, previous to the disjunction quoad sacra of the village of Partick and the adjoining district, and exclusive of the annexa- tion to Gorbals, there were ascertained to be in this parish 1971 Dissenters ; 69 not known to belong to any religious denominatioD ; and 4241 persons in connection with the Established Churcb. The Dissenters were thus classed : — 788 Relief people. ±1 Methodists. 596 United Seccdcrs. 13 Cameronians. 176 Original Burghers. 10 Old Independents. 143 lloinan Catholics. 18 Belonging to various sniall sects. 1 06 Episcopalians. 29 The names of whose ministers are unknowi*' 40 Independents. . 80 Baptists. 1971 The Govan and Partick Home Missionary Society, which i* under the superintendence of the minister and kirk-session of tti^^ parish, has been prosecuting for several years its noiseless but us^^ fill labours. The income of this society last year was L. 64, is. 6C:^ There are thirteen Sabbath-school teachers associated with i — Some of these are male and the others are female teachers. -—' likewise furnishes small libraries for the use of the Sabbath^oc=^ children, circulates approved religious tracts, and provides a pa^' • Since this was written, iMr Smith and Mr Skinner have resigned their charge^s*^ What IS stated respecting their churches and those of the other Dissenting minister^* IS taken from their own evidence before the Commissioners of Religious Instruction: * T This was an lndcpcnd«n\. cVvuxcVv \\>\ \\\e '^wct \^l. GOVAN. 716 of tbe salary of the missionary at Strathbungo. In the course of the last year, L. 44, 1 Is. 6d. were collected at the door of the pa- rish church for the four schemes of the General Assembly. And for the use of the poor, the sum collected, including extraordinary collections for their benefit, was L. 64, 15s. 9^d. Before the pa- rish was assessed for the maintenance of the poor, the weekly col- lections at the church door were nearly double what they have been since, though the congregation is larger now than it was at that time. The heritors have never interfered with the disposal of the weekly collections of the new churches. Any attempt, indeed, to lay hold of these would, it is believed, prove futile. If it were once made known to those who resort to the new churches, that their collections were to be applied to a different purpose from what they intended, what they are now accustomed to give when entering their churches, would immediately be withheld. It is conceived, besides, that it would be rather a hard case to take pos- session of the collections of a place of worship, which has been built by private individuals, simply because that place of worship is within the pale of the Establishment, and to hold those sacred, should the building be owned by Dissenters. This would be vir- tually holding out a premium to schism. Education* — Many children belonging to this parish receive their education from its very commencement in the schools of Glasgow. The schools in the parish in which the ordinary branches of edu- cation are taught amount to about 40, of which three are in the village of Govan, three in Partick, one at Strathbungo, and one at the Three- Mile House. The others are situated in the Barony of Grorbals. These do not include schools for sewing, &c., su{)er- intended by female teachers. The parish teacher has his school in the village of Govan. In addition to his school-fees and an excellent school-house and dwelling-house, his emoluments average upwards of L. 80 annually. These consist of the maximum salary al- lowed by the Parochial Schoolmasters' Act; L.1, Ids. 4d. received from the College of Glasgow ; L. 5 from the Trustees of the late Mrs Thom, as librarian of Thom's Library ; the interest of 1000 merks Scots, bequeathed to the kirk-session by George Hutcheson of Lambhill, one of the founders of Hutchesou's Hospital ; and the rent often acres of land, in which the Trustees of Abraham Hill, a native of Govan, invested in mortmain, a sum of money given by him in his hfetime for the purpose of educating ten poor child- ren. The following schools are in the Barony of Gorbals: — fl6 LANARKSHIRE. 1. The Macfarlane School— The late Mrs Waddell of Stone- field, whose own name was Elizabeth Macfarlane, bequeathed L. 2000 Sterling, in trust, for building and endowing this school The school-house, with a house for the teacher, was built in 1833. Sixty girls are educated in this school gratis. The management is vested in the magistrates, minister, and three elders of the kiik- session of Gorbals. 2. Gorbak Poor^s School — More than 130 children receive in- struction in this school, which is supported chiefly by the beneTO- lence of the Gorbals congregation, and an annual donation from the magistrates. fi. The Gorbak Juvenile and Infant School — This commodious edifice, which has two play-grounds attached to it, was built in 1836, by private subscriptions, and a grant from Government Upwards of 300 children, who pay a small fee, are educated in it by two teachers. The direction is in the hands of a committee of the subscribers. In 1837, a Juvenile and Infant School was likewise erected in Partick. The ground on which this handsome stnicp ture stands, together with the two play-grounds, was the gift of Mr Bogle of Gilmonehill, who, with similar liberality, had pre- viously given the ground on which the church of Partick is built. Each of the two school -rooms is 42 feet lon^ and 24 feet wide; and one of the private class -rooms is 1 5 feet long and 1 1 feet wide, and the other 1 1 feet loner and 10 feet wide. The whole erection, to which Government contributed L. 350, cost upwards of LIOOO. There is another school-house in Partick, and also one in Govan, and one at Strathbungo, which were built by private subscriptions, and to which there are attached dwelling-houses for the teachers. Gorbals Popular Institution, — The object of this institution, which had its origin in 1833, is the diffusion of science by means of public lectures, and a library, which now consists of 1100 vo- lumes. The management is committed to the magistrates, coun- cillors, and clergymen of the Barony of Gorbals, and twenty direc- tors, who are chosen annually from the subscribers, and the per- sons who hold class tickets. Since the commencement of the in- stitution, comprehending a period of six years, 324 lectures have been delivered to 3735 students, chiefly operatives, on natural philosophy, chemistry, geology, astronomy, political economy, po- pular anatomy, physiology, &c. The subscriptions which have been received in the course of that time amount to L. 264, 8?. 8.]d., and l\\c moweN v\\\s;\u» ^\o\tv vW s-^Iq of tickets to L.36S, 5s. *2d. GO VAN. 717 Thorn's Library,— The widow of the Rev. William Thorn, for- merly minister of Govan, founded this library. It contains all the books which were in her possession at the time of her death, and such other works as were purchased by her trustees, with the sum of L. 100, which by her will she destined to this purpose. There are now above 600 volumes in this library. These are lent out to the parishioners, on the payment of 6d. quarterly. The trustees are the minister of the parish, the ministers of St David's and St Andrew's Glasgow, and, afler the death of certain other gentle- men named in the will of Mrs Thom, the Trustees of Miller's Charity, Glasgow. Barony of Gorbah Savings Bank, — This bank was establish- ed on the dd of June 1815. Its affairs are conducted by a presi- dent, treasurer, secretary, and eighteen ordinary directors, who are chosen annually from among the depositors above eighteen years of age, and whose acceptance of oifice, and the discharge of the duties connected with it, are enforced by penalties. The bank is open every Saturday evening from 7 till 9, for receiving and pay- ing money in sums of one shilling and upwards. The balance of each evening's transactions is lodged on the following Monday in one of the Glasgow banks, from which the depositors have hither- to received one per cent, more than the ordinary rate of interest The last report shows the deposits for the year to have been L.6271, 9s. 4d. ; the repayments, L. 5508, 17s. 4d. ; the interest added to accounts, L. 235, 7s. 6d. ; the surplus interest for odd money and time, L. 42, 16s. Id ; sums deposited by new mem- bers, L. 20, 16s. 6d ; and the balance at the credit of depo- sitors, L. 8042, 7s. 4d. The expenses of the management are de- frayed by the fines, the entry money of a shilling paid by each de- positor, and the surplus interest received for odd money and time, no interest being allowed to the depositors for any period less than a month, or for any sum which does not yield for a month, one- halfpenny of interest Govan Agency of the National Security Savings Bank ofGlas- gow. — It has only been one year in existence, but during that time, the number of deposits has been 1356, amounting to L. 1191, 6s, 9d., and the interest added to the accounts, or paid to depositors, amounts to L. 22, 5s. 8d. Of the deposits, 586 were only Is. each, and 457, 36. on an average. Several friendly so- cieties have been established in the village of Govan for a consi- derable time, with a view to afford relief to sick aud \\\?v\wv wwivw 718 LANARKSHIRE. bers, aud, in case of death, to assist in defruviug funeral charges. About L. 285 of the funds of these societies have found their way into the savings bank. The good which has resulted from the establishment of the bank is in the highest degree gratifying. In- stances might have been mentioned, could this have been done without a violation of confidence, and perhaps hurting the feelingi of the parties. Parochial Funds far the Poor.— The poor are provided for chiefly by an assessment on the parish. This is levied accord- ing to the actual rental, which is estimated at L. 100,918, Ss. 2d. For the year 1838-9, the sum realized by the assessment was L. 2333, 7s. lid* The amount given for the maintenance of lu« natics was L. 320, 7s. Id., and for the support of the ordinary eo- rolled poor, L. 934, 16s. 5d. The great number of foundlings and orphans thrown upon the parish creates a very heavy charge. Paupers, in ordinary circumstances, receive an allowance which varies from 2s. a month in the case of individuals, to 10s. in the case of widows with children. The Trustees of the late Mrs Thom distribute, through the medium of the kirk-session, L. 10 annual- ly in meal and coals, among the poor of the villages of Govan and Partick. In inclement seasons, and when provisions are high priced, the wants of the poor in these villages arc farther attend- ed to by private benevolence, administered in the shape of food, fuel, and clothing. The poor of that part of the parish of Govan which was annexed to Gorbals quoad sacra^ in 1771, were, till the year 1823, with the exception of the lunatics and foundlings, pro- vided for along with the poor of Gorbals proper, by the kirk-ses- sion of Gorbals, out of their church-door collections, proclamatioD dues, and other funds at their disposal ; and down to that period there was no legal assessment for the poor in either of the pa- rishes ; but since then, the heritors of Gorbals have applied to the maintenance of their own poor the whole of the coUectioos, and likewise the dues paid for the publication of marriage banns, by persons residing in the annexation. An action, therefore, has been raised, and is now in dependence before the Supreme Court, for redress, by the heritors and kirk-session of Govan. Inns and Ale/iouses. — These are so numerous as to form a great moral nuisance. Their pestiferous effects on the health and vir* tuous habits of the people are only too ap))arent. Fvbruart/ 1840. PARISH OF DALSERF. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR* REV. JAMES CRAIG, (Retired.) REV. JOHN RUSSELL, LL.D., AssUtanl and Successor* L TOPOGRAPHYAND NATURAL HiSTORY. Name. — The ancient name of this parish was Machanshire, pro- bably from the Gaelic MaghaUy a little plain, and the Saxon Sctr, &trtf, or Shire^ which originally signified a division. In the Old Statistical Account of the parish of Ecclesmachan, in the county of Linlithgow, the late Earl of Buchan, a learned and respectable antiquary, seems to think that Machan is the name of a saint. Towards the north end of the parish of Dalserf, there is a pro- perty which still retains the name Machan, or Auld Machan ; and the whole of the higher and bleaker lands to the south, between Auld Machan and DrafTan, in the parish of Lesmahagow, are still called Machanshire or Machanmuir. From this ancient designa- tion of the parish and district, the Duke of Hamilton derives one of his many titles, as Baron of Machanshire. The name of the parish appears to have been changed from Machanshire to Dal- serf, when the parish church (or chapel as it had formerly been,) was transferred from the district of Machan to its present site on the banks of the Clyde. According to Chalmers in his Caledonia, Dalserf is derived from the Gaelic Dal^ a holm or flat field, and Sarfi a serpent or service tree, and thus will signify either the vale of the service tree, or the vale of the serpent, according to the fimcy of the etymologist. When all is conjecture, one supposi- tion is perhaps nearly as good as another. May the parish not derive its name from St Serf? There is, I believe, such a saint^ though his history is entirely unknown to me. The term Dal forms part of the names of several places in the parish. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish is delightfully situated on the west bank of the river Clyde, in the middle ward of the county of Lanark. It is bounded on the north and north-west, by the parish of Hamilton ; on the west and south-west, by the Avon and • Drawn up by tlic lUv. Dr RussclL 720 LAXARKSHIUE. the water of Gander, which separate it from the parish of Stone- house ; on the south and south-east, by Lesmahagow ; and on the east and north-east, by the river Clyde, by which it is divided from the parishes of Carluke and Canibusncthan. Its greatest length from south to north, namely, from the point where Cander Water first comes into contact with the parish on the farm of Whitehill, to the extremity of the farm of Highlees, on the bank of the Clyde, is about 6^ miles. From the confluence of the Cander with the Avon on the west, to Sandyholm on the Clyde in the east, the breadth is 4^ miles. In other places it varies from 2 to 8 miles in breadth, and at the northern and southern extremities runs into a mere point. The form of the parish is an irregular rhomboid, containing upwards of 1 1 square miles. The whole country slopes gently towards the north, and on the east and west sides, partially and somewhat abruptly towards the Clyde and Avon — the centre of the parish forming a sort of table-land between the two rivers. This parish forms part of that narrow isthmus, not more than 60 or 70 miles broad, between the Friths of Forth and Clyde, which, opening gradually to the sea on each side of the island, par- ticipates more or less in the temperate breath of the sea-breeze. The height of the land between this and the west coast is incon- siderable, and the climate is of course much modified and influ- enced by the Atlantic. The high lands towards the east, in the parishes of Shotts, Cambusnetlian, and Carluke, cut off our con- nexion in some degree with the eastern shore, though when the wind is from that direction we sometimes experience what is called the eastern haar. The view from the high lands of the parisli \o the south is bounded by Tinto, and on the north and north-west by the Campsie Hills, and the mountains of Dumbarton and Ar- gyleshires, which, when covered with snow, very materially affect the temperature of this district. The following table, drawn up from the observations of a medi- cal gentleman, some time resident in the parisli, will give an idea of the mean monthly height of the thermometer and barometer, morn- ing and evening, throughout the year, and of the average quantity of rain falling. Thermometer. Morning. Evening. February, 40.6 3<).9 Mareli, 48. 44. April, j1.2 47.47 Barometer. INIorning. Evening. 29.8 29.6 29.60 29. 29.67 29.66 liain. 1.30 3 16 1-87 Average, 46.0 40.52 29,45 29.24 6.33 per qiiartc DALSERF. 72] M May, June, July, Thermometer. orning. Evening. 5a 48.20 65. 58. 67.90 59.38 63.63 55.19 Barometer. Morning. Evening. 30. 30. 30. 30. 29.8 29.88 29.9 29.96 Rain. .0322 .0674 4.1 ATcrage, 4.1996 per quarter August, September, October, 64.90 , 61.30 58.3 61.41 58.30 51.31 48.6 52.55 30. 29.3 29. 29.4 29.3 28.6 28.3 2a7 .0964 a 3.16 ATerage, 6.2564 November, December, January, 4a6 44.3 42.6 47.3 42. 384 29.8 2a 28.3 29. 28. 28. 1.30 3.6 .0872 Average, 45.1 42.5 28.7 28.1 4.9872 per quarter. The average height of the thermometer throughout the year is 54.1805, morning, and 48.44 in the evening. The barometer in the morning averages 29.6 1, and in the evening 29.02. The quantity of rain falling is 21.7739 inches. These results, if compared with those in many places lying considerably to the east, will be found to be in favour of this part of Scotland. At Kin fauns Castle, near Perth, latitude 56^ 23', the mean temperature for the year 1830 was 47.626 ; here it is 48 and upwards ; the quantity of rain which fell at the former place was 30.85 inches ; here it is only 21.7739 inches. We may probably, however, have a greater number of wet or cloudy days, although less rain falls in a given time. But whatever may be the result of a comparison with other places, the climate of the parish may be described, in general terms, as dry and salubrious. There are probably few places in Scotland more favourable to health. The people are not liable to any prevalent distemper. Epidemics are of rare occurrence, and when they do visit us, are generally of a mild character, even in the crowded villages, and soon disappear. Dalserf was one of the few parishes in this neighbour- hood, which, in 1 832, had no case of cholera. The temperature, of course, varies in different places, according to the degree of eleva- tion above the level of the Clyde. In the sheltered vale along the banks of the river, the blossoming of the fruit-trees, and vegetation in general, are from ten to fifteen days earlier than on the rising grounds and slopes in the immediate vicinity. Hydrography. — The principal rivers connected with the parish are the Clyde and Avon, which form, as has been stated, its east- ern and western boundary. The stream next in point of size is the Cander, which falls into the Avon. That portion of the parish which is bounded by this stream is called the district of Cander 722 LANAUKSHIRE. Water, comprising some excellent farms. The above rivers follow the general slope of the country, and flow in a northerly direction. There are nine rivulets or bums, all of which, except one, arise in the parish, and pursue an easterly direction towards the trough of the Clyde. These streamlets, though in general insignificant and sometimes quite dry, are liable, at certain seasons of the year, to be suddenly flooded, and are torrents in winter/ Forcing their way through the lofty bank which skirts the western side of the river, they precipitate themselves in many places over the sandstone rocks in cascades of from 6 to 20 feet in height. The ravines formed by these water-runs, or ffills, as they are here called, are in general well wooded, and add much to the beauty of the vale of Clyde. It is scarcely possible to conceive a more beautiful country than Clydes* dale here is, on both sides of the river, at once highly cultivated and extremely picturesque. The course of the Avon, on the west- ern side of the parish, displays also much striking and beautiful scenery. The banks of this river are bold and precipitous, coih sisting alternately of beautiful knolls, of abrupt ascent, and clotli- ed with verdure from the summit to the water's edge, and of lofty sandstone rocks, the bases of which are washed by the dark waten of the stream. Even though the Clyde were awanting, the Avoo itself would be suflicient to impart a character of romantic beauty to the district. The two rivers combined give more beautifiil scenery to the parish than falls to the lot of most places in Scot- land. The breadth of the Clyde at Milton Bridge, about eighteen miles above Glasgow, is 56 yards. At Garion Bridge, two miles farther down, it is 74 yards across. In many places it is much wider. The velocity of the river varies from three to eight miles per hour. The Avon, at Millheugh Bridge, is 80 feet across; the Cander, where it falls into the Avon, is about 50. The springs vary considerably in different parts of the parish. About the vil- lage of Larkhall, at the north end, water is always found in a loose sand or running mud, at from 12 to 18 feet from the surface. -^ little to the south-east, where this stratum runs out, no water is ^ be found among the clay. The central parts of the parish are r^^ ther deficient in water, and during summer droughts the £ainn^''|* are often put to much inconvenience to procure a supply for th^^^^ cattle. Towards the Clyde and Avon, springs are more abundar^** There are many chalybeate springs in the parish; and on theglet^ there are two springs, the one of a chalybeate, and the other of * sulphurous nature, within less than 100 yards of each other. Tfr^^ DALSERF. 723 latter probably imbibes its peculiar qualities from the sulphuric acid which abounds in some aluminous or clayey soils. Many of the waters, when boiled, precipitate the oxide of iron, and the sul- phate and carbonate of lime. On December 3d, when the ther« mometer was 47°, the springs were 48", and the Clyde 44°. Dur- ing a pretty hard frost the water at the surface of open wells was about 42.'' Geology. — This parish constitutes part of the great coal basin or carboniferous formation which runs from Strathingo, near Glas- gow, in the north, to the water of Douglas in the south, a stretch of nearly thirty miles. The same seams of coal are found in the collieries at Glasgow in the west, and in the collieries of Garion- Gill and Dalserf in the east ; and throughout the whole of this ex- tent the metals dip to the trough of the Clyde. Within these few years, coal was wrought on the banks of the Clyde, near the church, at Woodside, Millburn, and Canderside, lying in a straight line, extending from the Clyde to the water of Cander. The following collieries are of long standing and in present operation, vii. Marlage on the above line, Raploch on the banks of the Avon, and Skellyton towards the north end of the parish. Within the last two or three years coal has been sunk for, and found generally at short distances from the surface, and is now in course of being wrought at East Machan, close to the mansion-house. Swine- hill, and Shawsbum, on the side of the road from Edinburgh to Ayr, and on the farm of Netherbum, belonging to the Duke of Hamilton. Some additional trials have not yet been brought to a result. But besides the above going works, an excellent smithy coal is wrought, in small quantities, at Birkenshaw, on the Avon, aod a similar seam, to a considerable extent, on the lands of East Machan, near Hairlees. In fact, there are at present no fewer than eight or nine going collieries, of more or less importance, in the parish. At Marlage the ell and splint coal are wrought in one pit, about 30 fathoms deep. The metals here dip at about 20° to west of north, and the dip is one foot in 10 or 12 feet The shps Of troubles seldom cross the metals, but run mostly in a north and south direetion. The coal recently begun to be wrought at Ne- therbura, within half a mile of Marlage, is the second Marlage seam* It is found at 12 fathoms, is of good quality, and commands already an extensive sale. At Skellyton an excellent seam of ^lint and parrot coal, about 5 feet thick, is wrought at the depth of from 20 to 25 fathoms. The dip here is the same as at Marlage. 724 LANARKSHIRE. At Raploch the main or splint coal is wrought in a seam of from 5 to 6 feet, at the depth of 30j^ fathoms. The rise is to the east, and the dip towards the bed of the Avon. The ell coal was for- merly wrought here to a great extent. It is what is here called the Canderside coal, 20 fathoms below the splint, that is now wrought in the new pit at Swinehill. At Shawsbum the ell or main coal is now in course of being wrought The fitting at East Machan, now in operation, is for the Springwell coal, at 1 1 or 12 fathoms depth, one of the seams lying below the splint. The smithy coal, in the same lands, now taken out near Hairlees, is supposed to be the splint coal smithied. The coal at East Machan House is of superior quality, and yields more gas than usual. All the above collieries have good roads leading to them, and at all of them the coal is wrought at a very moderate expense, and with little or no risk to the workmen. Accidents of any kind are of very rare occurrence. Besides the above seams, which are at present wrought, there is, at Low Millburn, a thin coal, called the Humph coal, from 2 feet to 30 inches in thickness, and about 12 or 15 fa- thoms below the splint coal. It is intermixed with ribs of splint and soft or yolk coal, burns well, and was formerly wrought to a considerable extent. The same coal has also been wrought at Ryehill or Canderside, where the splint coal has long been ex- hausted. At Birkcnshaw, near the spot formerly alluded to, where smithy coal (of the species called Lightburn soft) is occasionally wrought, a bed of cannel cojil, in a vertical position, crosses the bed of the Avon. Here a slip or dislocation occurs, which sinks the metals 40 fathoms. On the bank above, the metals to the south are observed to run out near a rock of a sort of rotten freestone, of a yellowish colour. About this spot, the strata all rise to the south : below it those on the Avon rise towards the south-east, and dip towards the bed of that river. The parish of Dalserf may be described as one large field of coal, very accessible in many places, and easily wrought. It is much to be regretted that lime and ironstone are not supplied in equal abundance, so as to cause a larger consumption of coal. A sort of calm limestone has been wrought formerly at Broomhill, on the west side of the parish. Like most limestones of the sort it requires peculiar management, and does not fall down freely* unless slaked before it cools. There is abundance of iron on the Avon, and in other parts of the parish, but none of it has 4 DALSERF. 726 yet been wrought In the course of the last few months trials were made for ironstone, both by boring and shafts, on the lands of Machan, and which, if carried to sufficient length, would have been decisive on this point in regard to the surrounding district. But the expense was considerable ; and, though very favourable indi- cations were obtained, the attempt was abandoned without bring- ing matters to a final issue. The trials were made under the di- rection of Mr Craig, mineral surveyor ; and, though in the mean- time abandoned, it is the opinion of skilful and practical men, that, by perseverance, ironstone will be obtained, not only in the lands of Machan, but in the neighbouring grounds belonging to the Duke of Hamilton and others. The numerous new attempts for, and fittings of coal in the pa- rish, have arisen from the speculative spirit of the age, from the impulse given by the railroad system, and the increased activity of the neighbouring ironworks, from the hope of finding ironstone, and more especially from the expectation that a railroad from Glasgow to tire north of England will pass through the parish, affording an easy transit for its mineral stores. A survey of the line has lately been made, with what result is yet to be seen. But in the meantime the collieries of the parish have a large and increased sale from the parishes of Lanark, Lcsmahagow, Stonehouse, Strathaven, and Glassford. Even Hamilton, Both- well, Blantyre, Cambuslang, and East Kilbride, take a part of their supply of coals from us. Within the last few years, from 12,000 to 16,000 tons of coal used to be sold in the parish annu- ally, at from 3s. to tSs. Gd. per ton. The quantity of late must have greatly increased. And that the coal-masters, though their speculative expectations have not yet been realized, are working, if not with much profit in some cases, yet without loss, is plain, from the fact that the price of coals to the inhabitants of the pa- rish, amidst greatly increased competition, is much the same as formerly. The sandstone connected with the above formations is mostly of a light whitish colour; whereas, farther down the country, near Hamilton, it is generally, from being impregnated with iron, of a reddish hue. The best freestone quarries in the parish are on the Clyde. It was from the quarry at Dalpatrick that the great columns and finest stones for the recent additions to Hamilton Palace were taken. Here stones to almost any size may be cut. There is a freestone quarry on the farm of Skellyton, from which LANARK. 3 A 72G LANARKSHIRE. tolerable pavement is procured. At Auld Macban is found a dark brown sandstone, of a coarse grain, and spotted with black throughout, resembling the Arenarius radians etdecussatus of Lin- naeus. It stands the weather well, and is excellent for chimney heads. The old mansion-house of Raploch was built of this ma- terial. On the banks of the Avon there are several good free-* stone quarries, particularly one on the lands of Broomhill, from which an excellent stone for building is got, and another called Bannockstane, on Raploch Braes. From the latter of these, the village of Larkhall has been mostly built There is very little whinstone in the parish. One small dike crosses the Clyde at Garion Mill, and runs along the face of the high grounds which skirt the western bank of the river in a southerly direction towards Craignethan, in the parish of Lesmahagow. Two singular dikes or reefs of whinstone occur at Birkenshaw. One of these, com- pletely turned on its edge, crosses the Avon a little above Clock- symill, now in ruins, to which it formed a natural dam. Both rise to the south-east. The banks of the Avon abound with pe- trifying springs, where beautiful specimens of petrified Sphagnums, Hypnums, and also Marchantias are found. Pipe-clay is found at Millburn and other places. Soil. — The soil and surface of the parish vary considerably in different places, and even on particular farms. The low-ljing holms and haughs in the vale of Clyde are mostly composed of transported soil, of great depth, formed apparently of the mud and sand deposited in the course of ages by the damming up of watef) and the overflowings of the river. The under stratum is entirely composed of sand or gravel. From these narrow plains the banks rise to the west with a bold and quick ascent to a considerable height, and are in many places steep and full of precipices. From the summit of this ridge the land rises very moderately till crossed by the road from Glasgow to Carlisle, from which it again fells down towards the Cander and Avon. The village of Dalserf, on the Clyde, is probably about 120 feet above the level of the sea, and the highest ground in the parish about 400 feet in elevation. The soil of the higher grounds is, in general, a very strong heavy clay, lying upon a stratum of dense argillaceous substance, some- times seemingly homogeneous, and disposed in regular horizontal layers, but more frequently of a mixed nature, without any ap- pearance of divisions in any direction, and interspersed with little roundish stones of various descriptions. This under stratum or DALSKRF. 727 subsoil, under all its varying forms and aspects, is generally called till. A singular stripe of sandy soil, of from half a mile to two miles m breadth, beginning at Cunnigar, in the parish of Hamil- ton, runs along the north-west end of this parish, and in a south- erly direction towards Kittiemuir, in Stonehouse parish. With this exception, the fields near the Avon are mostly loam, on a sandy or gravelly subsoil. With the exception of a few acres of moss in the southern boundary, the whole parish is arable and under cultivation. When left uncultivated, the ground speedily becomes covered with whins, broom, and heath. The soil of the upper part of the parish is in many places much injured by damp. Zoolofft/, — The wild animals to be met with in the parish are comniou to the neighbourhood. In regard to the feathered tribes, it may be mentioned that a good many varieties of water-fowl fre- quent the sheltered vale of the Clyde, chiefly in the winter months. Towards the latter end of the year, especially before storms, im- mense flights of the common gull ( Larus canus^J occasionally pass from east to west, but never in a contrary direction. Per- haps the abundant supply of food which the shores of the immense Atlantic afibrd render their return unnecessary. Pheasants, du- ring, the last few years, have become rather plentiful in the woods and coverts of the parish, and are sometimes seen feeding with the domestic poultry. I'he blackcock is occasionally met with by sportsmen, and the woodcock, at the proper season, much more frequently. The owl, till within these few years, lived and hooted undisturbed along our banks ; but by the persevering eflbrts of game-keepers, his wild cry is now seldom heard amidst the silence of night and the gusts of the wind. Towards the end of autumn, large flocks of plovers from the moorlands frequent the newly sowed or newly laboured wheat fields. The smaller birds here are nearly the same as in other places in the neighbourhood. There is scarcely a cottage in the parish that does not contain imprisoned linnets, bullfinches, goldfinches, or canaries, sometimes all these species, and cross breeds of every variety. Several per- sons, of rather idle habits, make a sort of employment of catching singing-birds for the supply of the market at Glasgow and other places. Salmon, trout, salmon-fry, and par, are found in the Clyde and other streams in the parish, leading to the amusement of angling and fly-fishing, although not, it is believed, with very encouraging results. Previous to the year 1660, and probably long after, ex- 728 LANAKKSHIBE. tensive salmon-Bsheries appear to have been carried on in the Avon, at Broomhill and Patrickholme. Very few are now caught in any of the waters above Glasgow. For this deficiency tn mo- dern and recent times, the following reasons may be assigned, namely, — the deepening of the bed of the Clyde in order to im- prove the navigation of the river, and the great increase of fisheries below Glasgow ; manufacturing machinery, and chemical and dye- works erected on the banks of the river ; the lime used in agricul- ture insensibly carried into the bed of the Clyde, which forms the trough or common sewer of the whole country ; par and fry-fish- ing ; the depredations of the porpus, grampus, and other destruc- tive sea fishes, particularly the grampus, which comes up nearly as far as the salt water reaches almost every tide at flood, during certain seasons, in pursuit of salmon, of which it devours great numbers ; steam-vessels ; and, in so far as this part of the country is more especially concerned, the obstructions and obstacles to be encountered at the dam of Blantyre works, and the dam at Mill- heugh mill on the Avon. Great depredations used to be commit- ted in this part of the country by spearing the salmon at nighti during the spawning season. It is believed that from the vigilance of the keepers employed by the Duke of Hamilton and others, this offence has of late years been considerably checked. There is a cruive connected with the dam of Clydesmiln, where a few salmon are occasionally caught. It seems a pretty well ascertain- ed fact, that wherever the salmon has, from any cause, disappear- ed from our rivers, the par is no longer to be found, — a circum- stance which certainly gives strength to the idea, that the latter (the par) is the young of the former. The parish cannot be said to have any plants but what are com- mon to this part of Scotland. The woods are chiefly confined to the banks of the rivers and burns, the central parts of the parish being bare and unsheltered. On the banks of the Clyde and Avon, and the sides of the rivulets, plantations, and fringes of natural wood, of some extent, and of great beauty, abound. They con- sist chiefly of oak, ash, birch, elm, alder, beech, — holly, gean or wild cherry, sallows, crab trees, and wild plums of various sorts, intermixed with hazel, elder, and other shrubs. At one time, plantations of Scotch fir abounded in the parish, and especialljin that part of it called Machan Muir. Of late years these old bells have all been cut down, or nearly so, without any attempt being made to supply their place ; and thus many farms have been left DALSERF. 729 bare and unsheltered. It ought to be mentioned, to the credit of the Duke of Hamilton, that, within the last five or six years, planta- tions of considerable extent, consisting of fir and hard-wood of va- rious kinds, have been laid off in the upper parts of the farms of Skellyton and Cornsilloch, and other places, which promise to be in good time a great benefit and ornament to the country. The other proprietors are doing nothing in the way of planting. It is the practice of the day to plant young trees in masses, from sim- ple regard to the growth of the timber, and a cover for game, without paying attention to the shelter which a more extended distribution would afford to high lying and exposed lands. The writer of the present article, without contending for narrow belts, which are seldom of much use, would recommend a compromise of views. He feels thoroughly assured, that if the expense incur- red by the Duke of Hamilton in planting masses of young trees, bad gone to the formation of wide belts, over the whole barony, a large per centage would have been added to the value of His Grace's farms. The only argument that can be used against this view of the subject, is the expense of maintaining fences around the new plantations, which, by a good understanding between land- lord and tenant, need not be much. — In the lawn in front of Dal- serf House, there is an ash tree of great size and girth, perhaps one of the finest in Scotland, and which generally attracts the no- tice of strangers. At Raploch there is an ancient yew tree, one of the few remaining traces of the old family residence of the Ha- miltons of Raploch, and which is deserving of notice, on account of its singular form and great size. It has no fewer than nine gtems, all nearly of equal thickness ; the diameter of the ground which it covers with its boughs is 40 feet ; and the circumference of course is about 120. It has been long known by the name of the Raploch bush. II.— Civil History. Machanshire (afterwards Dalserf) was anciently an appendiige and chapelry of the parish of Cadzow, (now Hamilton,) and was for many ages the property of the crown. The powerful family of the Comyns at one period had possession of it ; but during the contested reign of John Baliol, it again became part of the royal demesnes, and continued as such till the year 1312, when King Robert Bruce made a grant of it to Walter, the son of Gilbert, predecessor of the Hamilton family. Since that period, much of the district has been disposed to cadets of the family, «LV\d ijjiwvV^- 730 LANARKSHIRE, men of the name. James de Hamilton, son and heir apparent of James de Hamilton, Dominus de Hamilton, had a charter dated 18th April 1426, "to the lands of Dalserf, in the barony of Ma- ' chane," which had escheated to the crown, on account of the said James having conveyed these lands to his brother David de Ha- milton, by a charter under his seal, and made him personally in- feft in the same, without the consent of the king, or governor, m absence of the king at the time. The descendants of the aboTe David have been proprietors of the estate of Dalserf, properly so called, ever since the time of King Robert HL John Hamilton, son of James Lord Hamilton, became proprietor of Broomhill and Machane Muir, 16th February 1473. James Hamilton, a de- scendant of the Hamilton family, was infeft in the estate of Rap- loch in 1440. In the fourteenth century, this district was made a barony, and was afterwards called the barony of Machane or Machanshire. At what period it obtained the name of Dalserf is uncertain. In 1545, however, David Hamilton of Broomhill had a tack of "the teinds of Machan Muir;" and so far down as 7th April 1681, James Hamilton has a charter to the lands of Broomhill, Fleurs, &c. described as lying within " the barony of Machanshire.'* This would seem to indicate, that the old designation prevailed till ra- ther a recent period. The present church bears date 1665, on a small stone in the southern wall. It is probable, that as early as the Reformation, if not sooner, the church was removed from Dal- patrick or Chapelburn, and that the village of Dalserf, near to which it was built, soon gave name to the whole parish. The gentlemen of this parish and their retainers, as vassals of the Hamilton family, were of course involved in many of the trou- bles and adventures of their feudal superiors, which form matter of Scottish history. In 1516, John Hamilton of Broomhill, a stout, hardy, and bold man, though lame, attended the Earl of Arran, at the taking of the castle of Glasgow, against the Duke of Al- bany. In 1537, David Hamilton of Broomhill was in France with the Earl of Arran, at the marriage of Queen Magdalen to James V. ; and on 10th September 1547, he and Cuthbert Hamil- ton of Gander, a gentleman of this parish, were slain at the battle of Pinkie, in attempting to rescue Lord Semple, who had been taken prisoner. The wars of the Reformation, and the interest which the Hamilton family took in the fate of Queen Mary, involved the inhabitants ot MacWvx^VvvT^ \w tw^wj Vc^uhles and misfortunes. DALSER^. 731 Robert Hamilton of Dalserf has his name recorded as having fought for that princess at the battle of Langside in 1568, and as having incurred forfeiture on that account. But the following ex- tracts from the " Acta Parliamentorum" would seem to indicate that there is some mistake in this. *^ At Edinburgh, 12th July 1568, compeared, Johnne Ramage, reider at the kirk of Dal- serf, as excusator of Robert Hamilton of Dalserf, and schew, that the said Robert is sua vexit with in6rmities, and sa unable, that he has lyne bedfast thir eight yeires begane, like as is known to ane part of the nobility now present, and was ready to make oath thereupon." Whatever share the above Robert may have had personally in the affair at Langside, his son Robert, and his brother Patrick were probably present at the battle ; at least they were forfeited, but returned from exile with the Lords in 1585. Gavin Hamilton of Raploch, and commendator of Kilwinning, was also at Langside along with the Hamiltons ; was one of Mary's commissioners at York in 1570; and was included in the treaty of Perth in 1572. John Hamilton of Broomhill was not only wounded and taken prisoner at the same battle, but about two years afterwards had his house burnt to ashes by Sir William Drury, Governor of Berwick. During the persecuting reigns of Charles II. and James II., the inhabitants of this parish, in common with the whole neighbour- hood, suffered much hardship on account of iheir resistance to Episcopacy. Traditions of the sufferings of their forefathers are still cherished in several families. The then laird of Raploch made himself notorious by his officious zeal in behalf of the go- vernment, and his severity towards his Presbyterian neighbours. He survived for several years the Revolution of 1688, and lies buried in the church-yard of Dalserf. His memory is still in bad odour in the parish, and his tomb is pointed out at thi* day as that of " the persecuting Raploch." By an old decreet of locality of stipend to Mr Francis Aird, minister of Dalserf, of date 19th May 1721, it appears, that, at that period, the land of the parish was in the hands of the fol- lowing heritors, viz. " The Noble and Potent Prince, William, Duke of Hamilton ; Sir James Hamilton of Broomhill, Knight Barronett ; Gavin Hamilton of Rapploch ; Cuthbert Hamilton of Cander ; William Hamilton of Dalserf ; Robert Hamilton of Milnburn; James Hamilton of Neilsland, (in Hamilton parish,) and James Wood, portioner of Auld Machane, hetilot?. oUW X-awC^'s. 732 LANARKSHIRE. and parochine of Dalserf." It appears from the above list of heri- tors, that in 1721, nearly all the land in the parish was possessed by Hamiltons. Though the principal names and designations re- main the same, the state of property has been much altered and modified since the above period. The Hamiltons of Gander and Broomhill have entirely disappeared. The first Lord Belhaven was of this parish, being eldest son of Sir James Hamilton of BroomhilL His first designation was Sir John Hamilton of Beil. On account of his devoted attachment to the cause of Charles I., he was, by that unfortunate monarch, created a peer by the titlo of Lord Belhaven and Stentoun, 15th December 1647. His Lordship's next brother James, was ordain- ed minister of Cambusnethan by Patrick Lindsay, Archbishop of Glasgow in 1635, and in 1661 was promoted to the bishopric of Galloway. The bishop seems to have acquired the lands of Broom- hill from his elder brother, Lord Belhaven, and spent much of his time at the family mansion. He had two sons, both of whom died without issue, and the estate came into the possession of his daughter Jean, married to Mr John Birnie of that ilk. Broom- hill remained in the possession of the Birnies till little more thao twenty years ago, when, upon the death of the last direct descend- ant, a lady, the estate was sold by her heir to James Bruce, Esq. a native of the parish, who had returned with a fortune from India. The following is a copy of the valuation of the parish, showing, along with the names of the present heritors, the sum at which each property is rated in the county cess-book : The Duke of Hamilton's land, ... . . L. 1800 17 Si Dalserf and Millburn, Robert Campbell Hamilton, Esq. . 676 2 8 Raploch, Thomas M*Neil Hamilton, Esq. . . . 260 Broomhill, Miss Bruce, . . . . . 250 West Maclian, IMr Robert Buriis*s heirs, . , 62 10 East Machan, Mr John Burns, . . . . 62 10 Howlethole or Dalbcg, late Earl of Hyndford's heirs, , . 51 I ^ Sandyholm, Dr Charles Frecbairn, . . . . . 43 Woodside, Mr James Hutchcson, . . . 40 Birkcnshaw, Mr James Lohoar, . . . 35 Hillstonemyrc, Mr John Forrest, . • . . 20 15 Torland, Mr Archibald Tcmpk'ton, . . . 12 Roscbank, Mr xMuir*s Heirs, four-fifths, Sir W. C. Anstruthcr, one-fifth, 4 2 10 Total, L.3319 18 ^ There are, besides, two or three small properties, which have no separate valuation. The two properties of West and East Machan, forming what was wont to be called Auld Machan, are at present advertized for sale. The Lohoars of Birkenshaw, who were for a considera\Ae V\me\.etvaxv\s\i^W^Vi^^^\xvvaQr \;)roprietors of the DALSERF. 7 33 farm, which was formerly a part of the Broomhill estate, have a tradi- tion, that they are of French extraction, and that their ancestors, being Protestants, fled from France, in order to avoid persecution. Amidst all the changes that have taken place in the lapse of years, Hamilton is still a prevailing, perhaps the predominant, surname in the parish. The ancient residence of the Hamiltons of Dalserf was Alton, (or Auldtown,) now converted into a farm-steading. Scarcely a trace remains to show where the lairds of Raploch formerly lived. The house of Broomhill, formerly mentioned as having been burnt by Sir William Drury, Governor of Berwick, was, we are told, but one room wide, and four stories high, with a bartisan. It was again repaired, and a turnpike added. It was called the Castle of Auld Machan. In 1563, a mob came to pull down the old Ro- mish chapel at Broomhill; but the lady of Sir John Hamilton, meeting them on the way, assured them that they might save themselves the trouble, as she meant to make a good barn of it With this statement they were satisfied, and the chapel was per-* mitted to remain till 1724, when it fell down of its own accord. • The field where it stood is still called Chapel Rone. A private chapel, belonging to the Raploch family, formerly stood at Chapel Know, between Raploch and the village of Larkhall ; hence the neighbouring farm of Crossgates was also called Chapeltree. There were two chapels on the east side of the parish, — one at Chapelburn, near the old line of road from Hamilton to Lanark, by Nethanfoot ; and another at Dalpatrick, dedicated to the saint of that name, and also sometimes called the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin. No traces of either now remain. Near the village of Larkhall, is a level piece of ground called Bowman's flat, or vul- garly Bomflat, where, according to tradition, archery was for- merly practised, after it was reintroduced for some time by the Stuarts. These parochial practisings were, of course, subservient to the system of general and stated weaponschawings, of which Sir Walter Scott gives an account in his novel of Old Mortality. There is a conical rising ground (Gallowhill) south-east of Lark- liall, where, it is said, culprits used in ancient times to be execut- ^d» If we are to be guided by etymology, local executions must ^t one time have been general over the country, as there are few parishes that have not a Gallov^hill^ or some place indicating the former use of the gallows. The circumstance is, of course, to be ^plained by the local and heritable jurisdictions of fottuet Vvov^^ 734 LANARKSHIRE. by *^ the power of pit and gallows," possessed by feudal supeiion and lords of the soil. The traces of two ancient tumuli may still be discerned in this parish. In removing one of these a few years ago at Dalpatrick, the workmen came upon a stone-coffin, about two feet and a half long, and one foot and a half wide, composed of flag stones, in which an urn was deposited. In the coffin some bones were found, among which was a human under jaw, quite entire, and containing all the teeth except one. The um was about six inches high, of baked earth, reddish without and dark within, of a coarse texture, narrower at the mouth and bottom, and apparently formed in a mould of straw, or some such material, before it was put into the fire. Another urn, of nearly the same shape and size, but of a whitish colour, of a finer texture, and ornamented about the handle, was found among the rubbish ; and also a smaller vessel of baked clay, which appeared to be a lamp. A part of these relics is in the possession of William Lockhart, Esq. of Milton-Lockhart. In removing the cairn, a curious whinstone, of a roundish form, and about four inches in diameter, was picked up, perforated with a circular hole, through which the radicle of an oak, which grew near the spot, had found its way. This curiosity is in the posses- sion of Mr William Henderson, at Dalpatrick, who removed the tumtilus. There was formerly another cairn at the south-west end of the parish, called Cairncockle, which occupied the highest land in the whole district. Some old persons recollect of its be- ing surrounded by a ditch like a fortification. It has long been re- moved. Castlehill and Cairnsilloch, (i. e. the dirty tumulus, or burial-place for mean people,) near the village of Dalserf, were no doubt, as their names intimate, once remarkable places. About twenty years ago an earthern pot was dug up in a garden in the village of Millheiigh, containing brass or copper and silver coins of the reigns of Elizabeth, James L, and his son, Charles I. Near the same spot an ancient silver coin was got when deepening a mill lead. The Rev. John M'Millan, the well-known successor of Cargill* Cameron, and Renwick, and the individual from whom the Ca' meronians or Covenanters, in modern times, are frequently called M'Millanites, resided for some time at Braehead, near Millheugli» in this parish, and was buried in the churchyard of Dalserf, near the south-east corner of the church. He was father of Mr McMil- lan, who was settled at Sandyhills, near Glasgow, and grandfather of the late Mr WMaWaw o^ '^uAvcv^^ Vtc^fessor of Theology io the Reformed Pres^NVer^. 0\\'S•^\ivv^^^^^^^^cv'^^^v^\s^^\\^^^ DALSERF. 735 mon was preached in the churchyard of Dalserf, by the Rev. Dr Symington of Paisley, and a collection made for the purpose of erecting a suitable monument to Mr McMillan's memory. There is no history of the parish, either printed or in manu- script ; but some interesting notices of its former state and condi- tion, and of the families of the principal heritors, may be found in Hamilton of Wishaw's manuscript History of Lanarkshire, and in Anderson's Memoirs of the Hamilton Family and its branches. Parochial Registtrs. — The parochial registers, till they came into the hands of the present schoolmaster and session- clerk, had been very irregularly kept. Indeed, for nearly fifty years preced- ing 1812, there had been no regular session in the parish. In August 1812, a kirk-session was formed, and from that date there are accurate minutes of session business, and carefully kept regis- ters of proclamations of bans and of baptisms. Of late years a register of burials has also been kept The old parochial records are contained in two volumes of a very confused and miscellaneous description. The earliest entry is the registration of a baptism, 30th November 1738. Eminent Men. — The parish has little to boast of in the way of eminent characters connected with it, either by birth, residence, or burial. In addition to the names of persons already incidentally noticed, however, it may be mentioned, that there is a tradition that the celebrated Bishop Burnet once lived at Broomhill, and that he there wrote a part of his works. This is probably a mis- take. At least, the tradition cannot be authenticatea, and has pro- bably arisen from his being confounded with the before-mentioned James Hamilton, Bishop of Galloway and Laird of BroomhilL The Rev. James Hog, whose name appears rather prominent in public affairs during the stormy period succeeding the revolution of 1688, and who was one of the authors of the welUknown book called the ** Marrow of Modern Divinity,*' which caused so much controversy and discussion in the church, was for some time minis- ter of Dalserf. He appears to have been a talented, learned, and pious man; both as^a member of the church courts and as a parish minister, he had his own share of difficulties and troubles ; and, after a short ministry, resigned his charge. After a brief interval lie was appointed minister of Carnock, where he laboured with much acceptance and success for many years.* Mr Hog was the * See inferestiDg notice of this individual in a late number of the Edinburgh Christ- Mn Instructor. 736 LANARKSHIRE. authorof a considerable number of pamphlets and theological tracts, and died at Edinburgh in 1 7d6. Mr John Pinkerton, the well-known historian, critic, and antiquary, was descended from a family, who at one time resided at Dalserf, though they afterwards removed to the neighbourhood of Edinburgh. . Several of his connexions and re- lations live in the vicinity, and claim the privilege of burying in the church^yard. III. — Population. No account of the population in ancient times is known to exist Beginning with the return made to Dr Webster in 1755, the fol- lowing statement will shew the amount of population at each census subsequently taken by direction of Parliament, and the increase during the several intervals. 1755, 7561 souls. increase. 1791, . 1100 344 1801, . 1130 30 1811, 1660 530 1821, . 2054 394 1831, . 2680 626 Total increase in 76 years, 1924 By the census of 1831, the number of males was 1337, and of females, 1343, = 2680. In order to meet the inquiries of the General Assembly and the Religious Instruction Commissioners, with regard to church accommodation, a careful census of the po« pulatiou was taken in 1835. The return was 2874 souls, shewing an increase in eighty years of 2118. The population now (1840) must be considerably upwards of 3000. The increase is entirely in the villages, and especially in Larkhall and neighbourhood The agricultural and rural population is rather decreasing, from enlargement of farms, and improved habits of husbandr}'. Houses for country cottars will soon disappear. There is even a scarcity of country tradesmen and artisans, living among and supplying the wants of their farming and labouring neighbours. The villages are in course of rapidly absorbing the whole population, except farmers and their servants. For the large increase of the manu- facturing and village population of late years, several reasons may be assigned. The Larkhall district has a salubrious air, good water, and abundance of fuel and freestone. It is near the town of Hamilton, intersected by the great road from Glasgow to Car- lisle, and enjoys means of ready communication with the whole surrounding country. Ground for feuing is obtained easily, a"^ on moderate terms. Ol \\\\s ^^d\\Vj^ ^4N^w<.a^e has been taken by building societies, (^eVseviVv^Te \^l^\\^^ \<^ ^\A ^^^Jv^wn^^^ N^^^ DALSfiRF. 737 of late years, have had a powerful influence in accelerating the in- crease of the population. Nothing but a cessation of the demand for cotton weavers, or something deeply affecting the manuikctures of the cotmtry, is likely to prevent this increase from being pro- gressive. About two-thirds of the population live in villages. The vil- lages of the parish, exclusive of two small collections of colliers' houses, with their respective populations, were as follows, in 1831 : Houses. Families. Males. Females. Souls. Larkhall, 139 188 469 494 963 Pleasaiice, 45 53 154 143 297 MUlbeugb, . 42 45 118 . 119 237 Rosebank, 24 38 74 102 176 Dalserf, 19 22 56 55 111 Totals, 269 276 871 913 1784 Average number of marriages for tbe laftt seven years, 24 of births, . • - 77 of deaths, - - - 30 A register of burials was begun in 1831, and has since been carefully kept. The following table gives the deaths, at different ages, for five years : 1831. 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. Under 5 years, 6 9 - 7 13 12 5 to 10, 2 1 - 4 10 to 20, 2 - 4 1 2 20 to 30, 7 . 1 5 5 30 to 40, 1 - 1 1 40 to 50, 2 1 - 1 2 3 50 to 60, 1 - 3 60 to 70, 2 1 - 1 6 70 to 80, 2 7 - 8 3 5 80 to 90, 2 3 . 5 3 2 90 to 100, 0-0 1 Still-born, 1 1 - 1 Totals, 17 34 28 28 44 I'he following is a register of the deaths in each month for the above years : 1831. 1832. ]aS3. 1834. ias5. January, 1 6 5 3 4 February, 5 5 - 2 2 8 March, 4 3 - 5 2 5 April, 3 - 1 6 May, 2 5 - 4 1 5 June, 2 5 - 2 July, 2 . 1 3 August, 2 - 5 4 1 September, 1 2 - 2 1 October, 1 . 2 3 3 November, . 2 6 December, 2 - 4 3 5 17 34 28 28 V\ 738 LANARKSHIRE. If we take an average of five years, beginning with 1 831 , for mar- riages, births, and deaths, we shall find that, during that period, there were 126 marriages, 476 births (386 for Churchmen, aad about 90, at 18 per annum, for Dissenters,) and 151 deaths, giv- ing an average of 25 marriages, 95 births, and 30 deaths yearly* In reference to the whole population, this is nearly one marriage to every 115 individuals, one birth to 30, and one death to 95. From the preceding tables, it will be seen that, as might be ex* pected, the greatest number of deaths in each year is among per« sons under five, or above seventy years of age, the former class ave- raging 51, and the latter 41, in five years. The great number of children dying in infancy, among a population so healthy, is de- serving of notice. Of thirteen children who died under five years of age in 1834, only one had reached the age of four years ; 2, six months ; 4, two months ; 2, one month ; and 4 were only a few days or hours old. Is there not reason to believe that the treat- ment of infants among the labouring classes admits of much im- provement ? In five years, there were only three still-born chil- dren, or about one in 50 births. The proportion of twin-births is nearly the same. The proportion of male to female births is as 11 to 10. One in 20 marriages is unproductive, and the rest have about 3 children per marriage. The ratio of marriages dur- ing the five years above referred to, is, to every 100 inhabitants, about 3j; of births, 12J nearly; and of deaths something short of 3. The number of families in the parish by last census was 514, and of inhabited houses 423, shewinsr that there were 91 more families than houses ; families living in villages 276, and in the country 238; inhabited houses in the country 154; in villages 269. Average number of individuals to each house upwards of 6, and to each family about 5, viz. 6 in villages, and 4 in the country. Males upwards of twenty years of age, 617. Inhabitants to the square mile about 261. There may be said to be no uninhabited houses in the parish at present, except a few in the countrj' in a dilapidated and ruinous state, and which in all likelihood will never be repaired. The number of houses in course of erection by build- ing societies varies at very short intervals, but may be stated as being at present about 6 or 8 in the course of the year. The following classification, made in 1835 and 1836, will shew the relative numbers of Churchmen and Dissenters in the parish DALSEKF. 739 at that date, with the proportions of the poor and working- classes belonging to the two denominations : — Established Other Of no religious rj, , Church. denominations, denomination. ^ <>*»•• 2294 552 28 2874 Poor ftnd working classes, 1986 503 27 2516 The persons (28 in number), described as being of no religious denomination, were nearly all nominally of the church, and would probably have been very averse to being returned as above. But, having ceased for some years to attend public worship anywhere, they were excluded from the list of persons belonging to the Church of Scotland. The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards is 8 or 9. The principal heritors are mostly non- resident. Their mansion-houses, however, are, in general, let to respectable tenants, which makes their absence the less felt. .Four families of independent 'income reside in the parish. About the same number of families live on their private means, less or greater, without following any industrial occupation. The people of the parish may be described in general terms as a well-favoured race, of light and florid complexion, and in point of size and strength fully equal to the average of the district. There are 2 deaf and dumb persons, 3 blind, and 6 who are weak or disordered in mind. Of this last class 4 may be described as fatuous, while 2 are liable to fits of violence, and require occa- sional restraint. A disease resembling the ffoitre of alpine countries is rather prevalent in the parish, especially among females, 10 or 12 of whom are affected by a large and unseemly swelling of the throat. The disease of late years has been on the increase. There is, probably, some local reason for it ; but the medical men who have been applied to have not been able to give any explanation of the matter. In point of intelligence and general character the inhabitants of the parish are, at least, upon a level with their neighbours around them. Not a few natives of the parish have realized fortunes in In- dia and elsewhere. Several of these have, at various times, pur- chased estates in different parts of the country, and founded fami- lies, now ranking among the landed proprietary and gentry of Scotland. Id stating the general character of the people, moral and religious, the same set of remarks will not apply equally to the agricultural and manufacturing population. The former, or rural 740 LANARKSHIRE. class, are entitled to be described as cleanly in their houses and persons, and neat in their dress. The standard of dress among them, indeed, is rather too high, often preventing persons who cannot appear like their neighbours from attending church for a time. Speaking generally, however, this class of the population are exemplary in their attendance on public worship and the ordi- nances of religion. They are a simple-minded, sober, industrious, and frugal race — respectful to their superiors and kindly towards one another — peaceable and inoffensive, and not given to meddle with public matters, either civil or ecclesiastical. The manufac- turing population present a picture, in many respects, very different from this. The weaving class, from being enabled at a very early period of life to earn a man's wage, marry, for the most part, in mere boyhood, and begin housekeeping on credit What is began in imprudence is too often followed by thoughtlessness and impro- vidence afterwards ; and, if even occasional dissipation be com- bined with the burden of a family, it cannot be wondered at that the rapid result is poverty, squalor, and wretchedness. The want of clothes speedily prevents attendance on public worship, or, at least, is the apology urged, and the Sabbath is spent in loitering and sin. This class, moreover, is too often very pestiferously busy in regard to politics and church and state affairs — trying to reform the institutions of the country, instead of trying to reform them- selves, and to become sober, exemplar)^, and useful members of society. From this description there are many honourable excep- tions ; or, rather, perhaps, the above description ought to be taken as an exception from the general character of the manufacturing population. In Larkhall and the surrounding manufacturing dis- trict, there is a great number of just as respectable and well-con- ducted persons as any who are to be found in the parish. Still the above remarks apply by far too generally. It is much to be deplored, that the cotton trade, which has added so much to the general wealth and resources of the country, should be allowed to be the means of bringing down the standard of the religious and moral character of the population. The enlightened and patriotic interference of Government, in regard to education and pastoral superintendence, would do much to remove or abate the moral evil, and at the same time to increase the temporal good. For it is righteousness alone which exalteth a nation. DALSERF. 741 IV. — Industry. Families employed IB agriculture, • - 115 trade and manufactures, - 967 All other fiimilies, -> - - 32 514 Agricultural occupiers of the first class, - - 35 second class, - 12 Familiesof agricultural labourers, . « 68 115 employed in manufactures, weaving, &c - 226 retail trade and handicraft, 83 of capitalists, professional persons, &c. &c. • 32 employed in labour not agricultural, - 58 399 Males employed in agriculture, upwards of 20, - 168 cotton weaving, - . 230 work not agricultural, - .77 trade and handicraft, - . - 93 Capitalists and professional men, ... 23 Inferior and retired tradesmen, ... 9 600 Farm-servants upwards of 20 yean, - - 34 under 20 years, . . - 49 All female servants, .... 53 136 Colliers, ..... 43 Freestone quarriers, - - - - 12 60 Cotton weavers, by a late census, - . . 462 These proportions, founded on a preceding census, would re- quire at the present date, now that cotton-weaving and coal work- ing have much increased, and that great changes have taken and are taking place, to be much modified, as will be shown by the i^roacbing census of 1841. The parish contains upwards of 11 square miles, 5725 Scots acres, or about 7219 acres, imperial measure. The land, with the exception of a small patch or two of moss, is all either regularly or occasionally cultivated. Agriculture in its present improved state is of comparatively recent date in this part of Lanarkshire. So late as the year 1769, the absurd and ruinous system of croft and outfield continued to prevail. The croft was dunged every third or fourth year ; the field land was alternately cropped and rested, without being either fallowed or manured. This practice had been followed from time immemorial. The proportion of field to croft land was, in most farms, as three, four, and sometimes five to one ; Machan Muir was mostly of this worst description of soil, and hence a proverbial saying in the parish and neighbourhood, ** He that*s rich and wants to be puir. Let him tuk' a mailin* in Machan Muir." LANARK. 3 B 742 LANARKSHIRE. This adage has for many years ceased to be applicable, and is no longer repeated. For, by judicious fiurming, the district, once so reproachfully spoken of, now contains some of the best and most productive £eirms in the parish. The husbandry at present pur- sued is of a mixed kind, judiciously adapted to the varying soils and capabilities of different farms, and of the several portions of each farm. Hence every farmer depends partly on his grain crops, of various kinds, and partly on his dairy produce. In this mode of forming there is far less risk to the tenant than when the course pursued is more regular and systematic. If the wheat crop fails, there are probably fields of good oats, beans and pease, to keep the farmer from despondency ; and even when the whole grain crops are deficient, as sometimes happens, there is still the produce of the dairy to meet the demands of the landlord for rent If farmers in this part of the country seldom realize large profits, they just as seldom, from seasons and circumstances, incur absolute ruin None but native agriculturists do any good. Farmers from more favoured districts who have taken farms, at different times, in the parish and neighbourhood, and attempted a regular course of hus- bandry, have always ruined themselves in a very short time. With the exception of the low-lying grounds in the vale of Clyde, and a few stripes on the banks of the Avon, the land of the parish is not fit for green crops. Fallowing has in most cases to be re- sorted to. Wheat and oats are the principal crops. \Mieat succeeds best in strong soils, and yields, according to circumstances, from 25 to 60 bushels per acre. Oats are hardy, and succeed with less manure and culture. The variety most in repute /or the higher grounds of the parish is late Ayrshire; but which, from long use, has acquired in this part of the country the name of Machan Moor oats. It yields a large quantity of straw and fodder for cattle. The produce in grain from an acre of oats, varies from 25 to 60 bushels. Beans and pease thrive well on lands which are in good order. On poorer lands they give a re- turn of from 12 to 24 bushels per acre. The produce of an acre of potatoes, in soils adapted to them, has been found to weigh from 12 to 13 tons. They are not only much used as an article of human food, but likewise for feeding cattle, especially milch cows. Till a few years back, very few turnips were raised. They are now getting into more general cultivation on light soils, and are found to pay as well as potatoes. Carrots and mangel-wurzel have for some Ume (ovmed \)art of the cropping of the farm of DALSERF. 743 Raploch mains, and have been sold at from L. 2 to L. 3 per ton, or at the rate of from L. 30 to L. 40 per acre. Rye is sometimes sowed in orchards and other places shaded by trees, from its not being liable to be eaten by birds. It must be added, that neither is it at all savoury, in this part of the country, as an article of hu- man food. Hay yields from one to two tons per acre. There is a little flax raised for domestic use ; but the farmers do not think it a sure crop on stiff clay. The management of the dairy, in making butter and cheese, and fattening calves, is well understood — and the farmers' wives can, in this respect, vie with any of their neighbours in the surrounding parishes. The cows are mostly of the Ayrshire breed. On some farms, however, a mixed breed is kept, ra^ ther coarser and wider in the horn than the former, and which is supposed to yield a larger quantity of milk. In 1791, there were 300 milch cows in the parish, and about 00 young were an- nually reared.^ At present there are 500 milch cows, 350 young cattle, and about 100 are reared every year. The number of pigs is about 450. Very few sheep are kept. The produce of the dairy is made into full milk cheese — or churned, and the milk and butter sold among the villagers of the parish, or in the town of Ha- nodlton* Many of the vil^agers themselves, however, have a taste for keeping cows. There are upwards of 40 in the village of Lark- faall alone. The horses employed in husbandry are all of the Clydesdale breed, and of the best kind. The farmers in general are most attentive to the rearing of the best sorts of cattle, and bajre often obtained premiums at competitions for stock. In par- ticular, Mr James Frame, tenant of the farms of Broomfield and Overton, on the Hamilton estate, is well known as having often obtained prizes at the exhibitions before the Highland and Agri- cultural Society of Scotland, and county and parochial associations of a similar kind. Plantations^ §*c. — The number of acres under wood, whether natural or planted, is not great, and would require to be much in- creased. The plantations and coppices are, from year to year, carefully pruned and thinned. In regard to trees, it is the or- chard of fruit trees that is of most interest and importance in this part of the country. Fruit cultivation is of great antiquity in the district. The fruit district of Clydesdale may be said to extend from near Lanark on the one hand, to the extremity of the parish of Bothwell towards Glasgow on the other, comprising a dislaw^^ of about twenty miles. The banks of the Clyde at D^X-aex^ «cc^ 744 LANARKSHIRE. nearly in the centre of this favoured range. The orchards are chiefly planted on the declivities which overlook the river, or oo the sides of the ravines Vhich run into it, and very few of which could be cultivated by the plough. A few acres are planted oo the holms and banks along the side of the Avon, on the western boundary of the parish, but not with the same success as io the Vale of Clyde. The plum district is not co-e^ttensive with the general fruit one. Taking Dalserf as the centre, the plum ranges on both banks of the river, does not extend beyond three or three and a-half miles on either side. Within these limits, several kinds of plums appear to be indigenous, and thrive and yield a crop io hedgerows, and without cultivation. The native varieties of this sort of fruit are, burnets, whitcorns, horse-jags (harsh gage?) bullets and devons — all of which grow luxuriantly, and yield froit without care, besides filling the surrounding ground with suckers. It was long believed, that, even in this favoured tract, grafUd plum trees would not thrive unless reared against walls. This idea has been corrected by recent experience. It has now been ascertained, that magnum bonums, Orleans plums, precoce de Tours, green gages, red imperials, and other varieties, flourish as luxuriantly, as standards, as the indigenous plums, and, taking the average of a few years, yield a larger crop. They merely require the same treatment as apple and pear trees, namely, regular cul- tivation and manuring. Of apples, about sixty varieties are now cultivated, viz. sixteen sorts of summer, twenty of harvest, and twen- ty-four of winterapples. Of pears, there are about twenty-four kinds. Different kinds of fruit prefer different soils and situations. Speak- ing generally, however, orchards are observed to succeed best on a clay soil. On sandy land, the trees grow faster, but yield less fruit, the blossoms and leaves being more exposed to blight and the ravages of the caterpillar. In preparing the ground for an orchard, every springy or damp place is carefully drained, either by open or covered drains. Young trees are planted at the deptk of from six to eight inches, and the earth raised a foot or eighteen inches around them above the roots, to enable them to withstand the blast. For some years at first, much attention is required to prevent the bark and twigs from being bitten and destroyed by the hares in winter. A tree that has been hare-bitten, even to a small extent, seldom does any good ; and some young orchards, planted at considerable expense, have, from want of care in this respect, been entirely Tuvxved. Some of the old orchards are very irregu- DALSERF. 745 larly planted. The system pursued at present is to set out the young trees in rows, at from ten to thirty feet distant from each other, with a space of from ten to twenty feet between the trees. Regular and careful cultivation is required, especially when the trees are young. The expense of this is covered by the under-crops, such as potatoes, oats, beans, barley, rye, &c. Potatoes, with dung, are generally followed by oats, and then by clover and rye- grass. But very often, when the soil admits of it, gooseberry bushes are planted along with the young fruit trees, so as to prevent any re- gular under crop. For a good many years the two thrive well to- gether, and the gooseberries soon yield more than defrays the ex- pense of cultivation. The tacksmen of the cottage orchards in this neighbourhood are bound by their leases to apply manure once in four years. Lime occasionally used has great effect, es- pecially in old orchards, in quickening the growth and productive- ness of the trees. Gooseberries, in the way above-mentioned, and sometimes in plantations by themselves, are cultivated to a considerable extent. The bushes thrive best on a light soil. It is needless to plant them in stiff clay. The ground around the bushes requires to be delved and cleaned of weeds every year, and dunged once in two years. The kinds most in repute at present are, the early sulphur, the Warrington, the amber, Harvie's red, and other varieties of the jam-berry. Taking one year with ano- ther, gooseberries are a surer and more productive crop than large fruit. The extent of ground occupied by orchards within the bounds of the parish is about 50 acres ; 6 or 7 of which lie on the banks of the Avon. In these orchards there is wood enough to yield, at a full crop, about 8000 bolls. The fruit boll contains 20 sleeks. A sleek of plums weighs 60 lbs., of pears 50 lbs., and of apples 40 lbs. The average amount of bolls per annum is greatly below the above statement. During the late war, the prices of fruit were often prodigiously high, and large rents were obtained. This state of things has long since passed away. For some years past, the dealers have seldom ventured to give beyond L.2, 10s. or L. 8 for a boll of fruit, taking all kinds and varieties into account. The facility with which Irish, English, and foreign fruit is now brought to Glasgow by means of steam, has tended much to di- minish the incomes of the Clydesdale orchard men. The recent reduction of the duty on foreign apples to a mere trifle, bids fair 746 LANARKSHIRE. to put a stop, ere long, to the cultivation of this kind of fruit ai* together. Indeed, even before thid check occurred, the price of apples of inferior kinds had fallen so low in years of tolerable plenty, as scarcely to be worth the expense o4pulling and carting to Glasgow. An attempt was accordingly made, two or three years ago, to have them regularly converted into cider. A cider* press was established in the parish of Cambusnethan, which has yielded a very promising beverage. The experiment was checked by the total failure of the fruit crop in 1839, and the result id better years is yet to be seen. Gooseberries, plums, and pears being less liable to be affected by competition, still yield an en* couraging return to the cultivator and dealer, and good table frait of all kinds, including the better sorts of q)ples, whether for desert or baking, is in general in fair demand. The fruit of Clydesdale is taken for the most part to Glasgow or Paisley, some- times to Edinburgh ; and of late years, since the Glasgow market has got supply from other quarters, a good deal of it has beeo disposed of in the towns and villages of the more immediate nmgh- bourhood. The raising and management of fruit gives employ- ment at certain seasons to a considerable number of persons of both sexes, young and old, and any thing materially affecting this branch of rural industry is deeply felt in the whole district Con- siderable dissatisfaction and alarm have of late been excited, by the alteration of the duties on foreign fruit. Ment of Land. — The average rent of land in the parish is from 10s. to L.2, 10s. per acre. There are spots which are let for a limited period, at from L. 2 to L. 4 per acre. In general, the leases are for nineteen years, sometimes, however, for seven and fourteen, and on the several estates there are a few tenants at will. Grazing is paid for at from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3, 10s. per cow or ox. Woffes, — Labourers have about 12s. per week in summer, and 9s. in winter. From the extent of orchard ground under the spade, this class of persons is in general well employed when the weather permits. Delving among fruit trees and gooseberry bushes requires some skill and experience, and is not safely en- trusted to any buf individuals belonging to the district, or at least well acquainted with the kind of work. Carpenters get 2s. 6A per day, and masons about 16s. 6d. per week. The price of all articles required for the different purposes of rural and domestic DALSBRF. 747 ecoooiny is fully as high as in the neighbouring market-town of Hamilton. The Duke of Hamilton has twenty-two farms in the parish, rent- ed at from L. 50 to L. 400 per annum. The farm-steadings, re- cently built, are in general commodious and neat Those of older date are miserable hovels ; but, as they become unfit for occupa- tion, they will, no doubt, be replaced by buildings of a better descrip- tion. Tile-draining has commenced in several places of the pa- rish with good effect, and the Duke of Hamilton has recently esta- blished a manufactory of draining tiles near Larkhall, for the sup- ply of his own tenants, and for sale in the neighbourhood. The farms are mostly let at rack-rent. Still the farmers go on improv- ing, and pay their rents well. Tenants appear always to do best with the stimulus of a smart rent over their heads. The least thriving portion of the farmers of the parish are the small proprie- tors who occupy their own grounds. Rental^ Sfc. — The old valuation of the parish, as elsewhere stat- ed, is about L. 33*20 Scots. The real rental given in to the Teind Court before the last augmentation of stipend was L. 5764, and is now probably pretty much the same. The Duke of Hamilton's proportion of this sum is about L.2389, 8s. Id. The average gross amount of raw produce may be estimated as follows : Grain of all kiods, hay, &c. . . . L. 7000 Potatoes, turnips, carrots, beet, &c. . . 1910 0' Land in pasture, at L. 3 per cow, and L. 2 per head for young cattle, 2200 Orchard and garden produce, .... 1250 Coal, quarries, &c. ..... 2000 MisoeUaneous produce, • • • ��� 640 L. 15,000 Taking into account the number of acres in the parish, the gross produce is at the rate of L.3 per acre nearly. But from the acres there must be a considerable deduction for roads, channels of rivers, sites of villages, &c. Manufactures. — The principal manufacture in the parish is cot- ton-weaving, conducted for the most part by local agents, employ- ed at a per centage by the manufacturing houses in Glasgow. The new bleachfield about to be commenced at Millheugh will give em- ployment to a considerable number of hands, and be of benefit to the parish. The lace manufacturers of Hamilton employ a great many of the females. The prices of weaving and lace-making are frequently varying ; but, in. general, it requires long hours to make a very moderate wage. The manu&cturing population is healthy- 748 LANAEKSHIRE. The employment of cotton-weaving is overstocked; and the weavers themselves are tempted to continue and increase the eviL A poor man earning an insufficient wage is led to put his boys and girls on the loom at a very tender age^ in order to swell the amount. It is difficult to see how this state of things could be remedied except by providing factory employment or other kind of work for the young. V. — Parochial Economt. Market^Towfu — The nearest market-town is Hamilton, about four miles and a-half distant from the centre of the parish. Far- mers and others belonging to Dalserf, very generally repair to Hamilton on Friday, the market-day. There are several villages in the parish, Dalserf, (which derives its name from the parish, or gives to the parish its name,) was at one time a clachan or kirk- town of some size and importance. It now consists merely of a few low-roofed cottages, on the two sides of the lane leading from the Lanark road to the parish church. Till about twenty years ago, when Garion Bridge was built, there was a ferry at Dalserf, con- necting the two banks of the river, and which caused considecaUe stir in the village. Standing close to the mansion-house of Dal- serf, the proprietors for a good while past have felt a natural de- sire to have it wholly removed, and it bids fair very soon to dis- appear altogether from the landscape. Nothing but the presence of the parish church, which cannot be so easily removed, saves the few remaining houses from destruction. The village of Rosebank, about a quarter of a mile up the Clyde, has arisen in the course of the last thirty years to supply the deficiency of dwellings occasion- ed by the decaying state of Dalserf. Rosebank is a beautiful vil- lage, standing nearly opposite to Mauldslie Castle, fiuildiog, however, has already nearly come to a close in it, from the want of ground for feuing. There is a positive want of house accommoda- tion in this part of the parish. Millheugh, on the Avon, is a place of considerable antiquity. At one time, it had a brewery, a distil- lery, a waukmill, and an inkle-factory, all of which have disappear- ed. A bleachfield, however, above referred to, the buildings con- nected with which are already finished, is about to be set agoing in its immediate neighbourhood. The Lupulns, or hop-plant, is often found wild near the village, and is supposed to have been former- ly cultivated here. An old two-storey house presents a curious sun-dial in the Egyptian style, ekecuted upwards of 100 years ago DALSERF. 749 }y a person of the name of Burns. Larkhall, situated close to the >oundary with Hamilton parish, and near the road leading from Griasgow to Carlisle, is the largest and most important village in ;he parish. It is chiefly built upon the Ra*ploch property, though partly also upon the Duke of Hamilton's lands, and those belong- ng to West Machan, on leases of ninety^nine years. It is mostly nhabited by weavers, and the houses are nearly all of one descrip- :ion, namely, an apartment (seldom two) for family use, and a four oom shop. Larkhall has been nearly all built since 1776. In 1791 it contained about 100 houses. At present it consists of not fewer probably than 250, and is increasing with great rapidity. This increase is in no small measure owing to the establishment of k>iiilding societies, and other causes which are elsewhere noticed. It is impossible to speak of Larkhall separately from the hamlets^ rows of houses, and dwellings, in its immediate vicinity. The whole neighbourhood in which it stands, is one large village, containing a population of upwards of 2000 souls. Within the last two or three years a post-ofiice has been established in the village, subordinate to Hamilton and Glasgow. This may be a benefit, perhaps, to per- sons in the village and its immediate neighbourhood, but is felt to be a positive nuisance to those living on the banks of the Clyde, who, from greater facility of communication, would in general ra- ther have Hamilton as their post town. The payment of a run- ner, with a single letter perhaps, renders the recently established penny postage of no benefit. Means of Communication, — There are three great lines of road which intersect the parish, namely, the road from Glasgow to Car- lisle, the one from Glasgow to Lanark, by the banks of the Clyde, and the more recently formed line from Edinburgh to Ayr, which crosses the river at Garion Bridge. The Carlisle road, which is of long standing, was much altered and improved about twenty years agOy and afforded seasonable employment to the manufacturing po- pulation in the troublesome years of 1819 and 1820. The Lanark road was formed about the end of last century. Though beauti- ful and picturesque in its windings, it is not distinguished by those principles of road-making which now prevail, and admits of many improvements. The road from Edinburgh to Ayr only became a thoroughfare about ten or twelve years ago, and its use and import- ance are only yet beginning to be appreciated. These roads tra- verse the parish to an extent of about eighteen miles, and are a great benefit- to the farmers of the parish and the neighbourhood in general. Without stating the extent of the parish roads, which is rather indefiiiile, it may be mentioned that, for many years, there was a heavy load of debt on the Statute Labour Fund, and that, consequently, these roads were very ill kept. Of late, there is a decided improvement id this respect. The merely farm and service roads of the parish, from running through beds of clay, and not being metalled, are, in general, in a very wretched stale, and ID the winter months nearly impassable. Of late a good road has becD made, by subscriptioa, through the farm of Bent, which af- fords communication between the parishes of Lesmahagow and Dalserf, in their interchange of coal and lime. The Duke of Ha- milton has also, within these few months, made a good new road through the farm of Overton, so as to connect his new colliery at Netherburn with the Lanark road on the banks of the Clyde. It is probable that both these new opening!!, from their obvious pub- lic utility, will be adopted by the parish road trustees. These trustees, from the provisions of the act on this subject, are \eT] few in number, and the interest of the public is often very imper- fectly attended to. It is a pity but a thorough revision were made of the Statute Labour Act. The London Mail passes . tiirough the parish at stated hours on its wav to and from Glas- gow. There is also a daily stage-coach from Edinburgh to Ayr, another between the towns of Strathaven and Stonehouse aod Glasgow, and a third between Glasgow and Lanark. The village of Dalserf is about 16 miles south-east of Glasgow; 34 west of Edinburgh ; 37 east of Ayr; aDd is about half-way between Ha- milton and Lanark, or 7^ miles from each. There are two excellent bridges over the Clyde, connecting the parish of Dalserf with the opposite bank, namely, Garion and Mil- ton Bridges. Garion Bridge, near Dalserf, consists of three arches, of 65 feet span each, the roadway being 20^ feet, and the height of the parapet from the bed of the river 34 feet. A lar^ stone, built into the toll-house, contains the following inscription : — " In tes- timony of respect and gratitude to General Sir James Stewart Denholm of Coltness and Westshiel, Bart., in whose patriotic zeal for the improvement of his country this bridge originated, and bj whose liberal contributions, united with those of Mrs Catherine Bi^ nie Mitchelson of Uroomhill, and the Kev. John Scott, D. D. mi- nister of AvoDdale, it was happily completed in the year 1817,"' a time when there was no safe passage across the Clyde from La- nark to Bot\i'Be\V', t\\ft other contributors erected this stois- DALSERF. 751 Erected by Kenneth Mathieson, Glasgow." This testimony is the more worthy of being responded to, as the bridge, though a great public benefit, has as yet been the reverse of any source of profit to the subscribers or their heirs. The bridge at Milton is the private property of William Lockhart, E^. of Milton Lock- hart. It is a graceful structure, consisting of three arches, ribbed ID the old style, like those in Bothwell Bridge and old Avon Bridge, near Hamilton, both of which are of unknown antiquity. There is a bridge of one arch, of 80 feet span, over the Avon at Millheugh ; another over the Candor, near Stonehouse, with nu* merous smaller bridges crossing the rivulets of the parish. The land is nearly all enclosed. At one time, dry stone dikes were in general use for this purpose. These have now, in a great measure, disappeared, their place being supplied by hedges of thorn and beech. The hedges on the Duke of Hamilton's lands, along the sides of the principal roads and around his plantations, are ex- cellently kept, and every encouragement is given by his Grace to his tenants to attend to the subdivision fences on their farms. There is still great room for improvement The subdivision hedges of the parish are too often neglected and insufficient. Indeed, un- less landlords take the trimming and upholding of fences into their own hands, the expense of planting them is, in too many instances, just so much money sunk and lost. They are forthwith allowed to be trampled down by cattle, and being left unshorn and un- attended to, except at long intervals, become useless as enclo- sures, causing a constant and annoying demand upon the landlord for stob and rail. Wood grows readily, and hedges are reared without difficulty in every part of the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is beautifully situated, but very inconveniently placed for the greater part of the popula- tion. It stands on the banks of the Clyde, >n^ich is the eastern boundary of the parish. Its distance from the farthest boundary is about four miles. It was built, as already noticed, in 1655. It appears from the Presbytery books, that both church and manse were repaired in 1721, at an expense of L. 427, 18s. Scots. Some alteration and repairs of the seating took place in 1818 and 1819, so as to make the interior of the church more respectable in ap- pearance and more comfortable, but without giving any additional accommodation. Though old, the present condition of the build- ing is such as, in the existing state of the law, to justify the heri- Td2 LANARKSHIRE. lore in refusing any alteration, and to exempt them from the ohli- giition of building a new church — a circumstance of which they have not tailed to avail themBelves, when applied to on the subject. In 1834, a meeting of heritors wjis convened at the Instance of ibe feuars and other inhabitants of Larkhall and neighbourhood, and a memorial presented, prajlng for a new and sufficient church Id a centrical situation, so as to afford accommodation for the whole parish. These persons at the same time offered a large sum by way of subscription in aid of the heritors, upon being allowed a right to a certain number of sltlings. Only two or three heritors attended, who were averse to the proposal j no encouragemeat was given by those who were absent, and the matter came to Dought. In consequence of this failure, a subscription was forth- with entered into for building a chapel at Larkhall. It will shew the necessity of something being done, to slate, in contrast wtth the preceding population returns, the simple fact, that the church only contains about 550 sittings, and, before the erection of Lark- ball into a separate parish, v/aa not more than suflicient to coalaia the actual communicants. For several years previous to 1835, tent-preaching in the church-yard had to be resorted to for a good many weeks in the summer. It may easUy be supposed that ibis want of accommodation drove a number of persons, not disposed to have left the church on any other ground, to seek accommoda- rioD in Dissenting meeting-houses. Yet the seats, in so far as they went, might be said to be all common. The church has never been divided ; at least no legal division is known to exist, and the people were accustomed to take seats wherevertheycould find them. The writer of this article felt it his duty to discourage any new and formal division of seat-room among the heritors, which would forth- with have dissevered a lar^ portion of his flock from the Esta- blishment. There*bas always been a sort of use and wont occupa- tion by the heritors and their principal tenants, whose seats aad pews were in general, though not always, safe from intrusioD. From the state of things now alluded to, the crowded state of the church, and the want of division, much bad temper at times prevailed amongst the parishioners, and some unseemly quarrels took place even in the church. Since the^division of the parish, things, of course, are in a much better state in this respect. The manse formerly stood in the village of Dalserf, close to the church-yard wall. At what time the change of site took place DALSERF. 763 cannot be accurately ascertained. The present manse, standing on an eminence oTerlooking the church and village and the vale of Clyde, is probably considerably upwards of 100 years old. Though commanding one of the most splendid views in Scotland, the house is a very insufficient and uncomfortable residence. It was proposed about thirty years ago to build a new manse ; but, from a misun- derstanding between the minister and heritors, the latter contented themselves, as they were entitled by law, with making some re- pairs on the old building, and adding a back jamb, containing two new apartments. It would have been much more economical for the heritors and their successors to have built a new manse at once. The offices were erected at the date above referred to, and are in good repair. The glebe consists of about ten Scots acres, of which about four acres are in orchard. It would probably bring a rent of about L. 40 per annum. The returns for fruit in certain seasons would appear to warrant a larger estimate. But it is well-known to those who are conversant with this subject that a fruit rental is the very reverse of being all pro6t. The glebe is all good ground, and, when properly cultivated, never fails to make a suitable return* In connexion with the glebe, it may be mentioned, that, about thirty years ago, the present nominal incumbent of the parish, Mr Craig, applied for, and, after some litigation, obtained as grass- glebe, a piece of ground at that time in the possession of the Earl of Hyndford, proprietor of Dalbeg, and which was partly covered with trees, old and young, some of them of considerable size and value. Soon after getting possession, he proceeded to sell the timber, but was interdicted by the heritors, on the ground that the trees belonged to the living^ and not to the existing incumbent The case came before the Supreme Court, and the decision was that trees are crop ; that a minister is entitled to cut them down for his own behoof; that glebe ground is given for the purpose of furnishing meal and milk for his family, and that he is at liberty to crop the ground in whatever mode he may think proper. This decision fixed a general principle as to glebe ground. The stipend in 1755 was L. 75, 6s. 8d. ; in 1795 it was, in. eluding the allowance for communion elements, and the value of the glebe (not of the manse), rated at L. 148, 15s. In 1807, an augmentation was granted. The present stipend, modified 2d June 1824, commencing with the last half of crop 1822, and finally al- 754 LANABKSHIRE. localod 1829, is 17 chalders or victual, the oae-lialf meal, aad the other barley, with L, 10 for communioD elements. There U still a moderate sum of free leind in the parish. This parish, like many others, seems to have had no settled mi- nister for some time after the Revolution ia I6d8. We 6ikI, from the records of Presbytery, that competing calls were given about this period to a Mr Robert Barclay, by the people of Dalserf and Strathaven. Under date August 26th 1690, there is the following entry in the minutes of Presbytery, *' With rererence to the parish of Dalserf, the Preabytery find, that that parish in their present circumstances) cannot give a legal call to a minister for want of an eldership. To remove this difficulty, they appoint, at the desire of that people, Mr G. Cleland (of Shotls) to preside at the no- mination of an eldership, on Thursday 9th September 1690, and to preach on the Lord's day thereafter, that an edict may be served for the said persons, who shall be found quahfied, and Mr William Kerr to preach on Tuesday thereafter, and to receive them ac- cording to form." This was accordingly done. On August 20th 1690, the parish had given a call to Mr William Lamb, from some cause not explained, (probably the irregularity of the call) he was never ordaJued. He appcarii, however, to have served ibe ciire, from March 1688 to March 1690. The following is a list of the ordained ministers of Dalserf from the Revolution dawn< wards: — James Hog, ordained 20th January 1691, afterwards settled at Carnock i Alexander Adamson, ordained I9th Ma; 1697 ; Francis Aird, ordained (date not known) ; William Steel, (of Wygaleahaw) ordained 20th August 1730 ; John Risk oi^ dained 2d July 1761, died 7th May 1805; James Craig, ordained 26th September 1803 ; retired from the duties of his oflSco in 1817, and has since lived in England; John Russell, LLD. ordained A. and S. 29th April 1817; and has since been the only resident minister, and had the sole pastoral charge of the parish. The chapel at Larkhall, formerly referred to, is in the earliest class of places of worship erected under the impulse of the Ge- neral Assembly's Church Extension movement. There was most urgent need of it. The people were far too poor to do much for themselves, and were deeply indebted to distant and generous friends. The chapel was opened for public worship 10th January 1836. Mr James Macletchie, who had some time previously been appointed preacheT and catechist for the district, officiated for DALSERF. 755 some time witaout ordination, — the parish minister exchanging pulpits with him, and dispensing ordinances and discipline as might be required. In due time a constitution was obtained for Lark- ball Chapel, and Mr Macletchie having been chosen by the peo- ple as their minister, was ordained, 27th July 1837, as first minis- ter of the quoad sacra parish of Larkhall. Having shortly after- wards been removed to the newly erected quoad sacra parish of Gartsherrie, he was in due time and form succeeded by Mr Ro- bert Orange Broomfield, now minister of Larkhall, formerly of the Scottish chapel at Stamfordham in Northumberland, and who« was settled in his present charge, 26th July 1838. The minister of Larkhall is paid in the same way as other ministers of the same description under the Assembly's Extension Scheme, namely, out of the seat rents. He has a bond for L. 70. The church con- tains 720 sittings, of which 450 are let There are 30 free sit- tings, and it is an article of the constitution, that one-half of the sittings shall not exceed 3s. a sitting, and that a strict preference shall be given to the parishioners. A considerable sum of debt has hUherto hung over the chapel. Active measures, however, are at present in operation for getting it liquidated, and there is no reason to doubt that it will speedily be cleared off. The collections, by consent of the heritors, recorded in their minutes, go to the bene- fit of the chapel funds. It is provided by the constitution, that as soon as an endowment is obtained, one -fourth of said collections shall be given to the poor. The parish laid off by the presbytery for this new erection, comprises the lands of Broomhill, West Machan, Meadowhill, and Muirshot, with all that portion of Dal- serf which lies between this line and the river Avon — along with considerable stripes of the parish of Hamilton to the north and west. The whole population of the quoad sacra parish of Lark- hall is upwards of 2200. There is a Relief Meeting- House at Larkhall, built about the same time with the new church there. It has no gallery as yet, and contains about 400 sittings on the ground area. The state of its affairs is not known to the writer of this article. The first or- dained minister died some time ago, and has just been succeeded by another. There is, besides, a small Independent congregation at Larkhall, of a good many years standing. It consists at present of eight or ten persons who meet on Sabbath along with their aged and worthy minister for social worship. He has a sort of endow- ment, consisting of a two storey house and garden, conferred upon 756 LANARKSHIRE. him for life, by a zealous iDdependent, a native of thisparish^ who was settled in Paisley, and died some years ago. The population of the parish is at present not less than 3000 souls. The number of Dissenters of all denominations does not pro- bably exceed 550, leaving, aa belonging to the church, 2450. The larger portion of the Dissenters belong to the Relief congregation at Larkhall. There are some, however, connected with the UdiU ed Secession, the Reformed Synod, and the Independents, who attend places of worship in the neighbouring parishes. Althoogfa ^ere may be now and then a few migratory Irish Catholics living in the parish for a short time, for the sake of employment, there is not and seldom has been any Catholic among the permanent population. The Episcopalians occasionally residing within our bounds have always been of the higher ranks, and have never iail- ed to conform for the time to the Established Church. The Dis- senters of the parish belong for the most part to the Larkhall dis- trict There are very few among the population, amounting to about 1000 souls, to whom the pastoral care of the minister of Dalserf is now restricted. In case the number of inhabitants as- signed to Larkhall parish should appear disproportionate, it must be mentioned, that two-thirds of the whole population of Dalserf live within half a mile of the new church. The gross number of communicants belonging to the church and living in the parish was reported to the Commissioners of Re- ligious Instruction as being about 800. The estimate was not then too high, and cannot be diminished now. Of this number about 500 or 520 (exclusive of non-parishioners and strangers) were in the habit of communicating at Dalserf in summer, aod upwards of 400 in winter. They are now divided of course be- tween the two places of worship. The communicants at Dalserf now are upwards of 300, and in summer never short of 350. At Larkhall, as per General Assembly's Church Extension Report, the number is 290. This increase in the number of actual com- municants points out the good that has been done by affording church room, and a facility of attending upon ordinances. Public worship is generally well attended. At Larkhall the average at^ tendance on Sabbath is 500. The church of Dalserf, which be- fore the division of the parish was, in good weather, always fall, has been very little affected by the formation of the new congre- gation at Larkhall. The diminution of the average attendance never exceeded ^ft^ persons \ and any slight blank that may have DALSERP. 757 m been perceived at first, from the abstraction of so large a portion of the population, is in rapid course of wholly disappearing. A considerable number of persons belonging to the parishes of Les- mahagow, Carluke, and Cambusnethan, were always inclined, for convenience's sake, to make the church of Dalserf their place of worship, though they were much discouraged by want of room. Since Larkhall chapel was built, much more accommodation has been afforded them, and they have not failed to avail themselves of if. It is much to be desired, as matters now stand, that a quoad sacra separation, at least of certain portions of the above- named parishes, should be effected, annexing them to Dalserf. They fall naturally, and by way of neighbourhood, under the charge of the minister of that parish. The writer of this article feels himself called upon to express in the strongest terms, for himself and his parishioners, their deep sense of obligation to the promoters of the General Assembly's Extension Scheme, for the good which it has done in this parish and neighbourhood. There are no societies in the parish for religious purposes ; but collec- tions are regularly made in the parish church for the Assembly's Schemes, and occasionally for other general and local objects. The amount of money collected in this way is (exclusive of Lark- hall) about L.10 or L.12 per annum. Education. — There are two parochial and endowed schools in the parish, viz. the principal one at Dalserf, and a district one in LarkhalL Dalserf parish school, like the church, is inconvenient- ly placed for the population. It is at present, however, the only school in the old parish, and is well attended. A small private school was kept up for some years in the village of Rosebank, but not affording encouragement, nor even subsistence to the teacher, it has of late been abandoned. The school at Larkhall was in the first instance built by subscription, but in a short time was adopted by the heritors, and has for many years been endowed, re- gulated, and supplied by them in terms of the Act of Parliament. The two parochial schoolmasters are required to be qualified to teach English reading and grammar, writing, arithmetic, book- keeping, practical mathematics, and Latin. Both of them attend- ed CJollege for two or three sessions. In the parish school there are generally young persons learning Greek and French. The pa- rish schoolmaster has the maximum salary of L. 34, 4s. 4^d., with a bouse and garden of the dimensions and extent required by law. He is, besides, session-clerk and collector of poor's rate. His of* LANARK. 3 C 768 LANARKSHIRE. fieial emolumenttf may amount altogether to about L. 90 per n» num. ' The teacher at Larkhall has a good house, nchool-rooBi and garden, with an annual salary of L. 5. His income from school-fees cannot be accurately stated. The school can areomoM^ date about seventy scholars, and is generally well attended. Bb emoluments altogether do not exceed L. 40 or L. 45 a year. Tlis fees in the parish school (and the rate does not differ maleriaUy ii the other schools of the parish) are, English reading and gramaVf per quarter, 2s. ; do. with writing, 88. ; arithmetic and matheou* tics, 4s. ; book-keeping per set, 10s. 6d. ; Latin, &c per qusr- ter, 5s. In the parish schools the Bible is the standard book, and dw Assembly's Catechism is regularly taught and explamed. Hm other school books are of proper kinds, and the mode of leachiiigi without being exactly adapted to the present fashion, has beenki* proved in^ many instances, and is in course of improvement Tht number of private schools varies considerably in a very short ps* riod. In reply to the Lord Advocate's queries in ISdS, five wtii reported, attended by about 280 children. At present, theie sis only two worth mentioning, namely, one in Larkhall, and anolber in Millheugh, both of them efficiently taught and well attended. The branches taught in the private schools are in general odIj English, writing, and arithmetic. No high standard of qualifica- tions can be required where the emoluments are so small The interference of Government is essentially requisite, in order to pro- euro a better class of teachers, and a more efficient and extended system of education, for the largely increased population of tiiis manufacturing district The provision made by law at present if quite inadequate. It will be a pity if any new schools that may bi erected by the aid of Parliament, are not placed as heretofore) under the superintendence and control of the Established Church, which has, by long experience, so amply vindicated its claim to praise in regard to promoting and watching over the interests of education. From the preceding statement of fees it will be seeo that the expense of education is the reverse of being oppreseim School wages, however, are in general ill paid. The people are by no means indiflFerent to the benefit of having their chiWres taught to read and write ; but poor parents are often tempted to take their boys and girls alike from school far too early, and to employ them at the weaving-loom and tambouring-frame before they have beeu even taught to read perfectly. Any deficieiicy of DALSERF. 759 this kind is in general afterwards supplied by attendance on week day evening and Sabbath schools. The parish schoolmaster is bound to teach all children of paupers that are sent to him, gratis, aod the teacher at Larkhall takes three or four in the same way. The kirk-session is always anxious that none should be left un- taught from want of means, and pays for a good number of chil- dren who, from the poverty of their parents, would otherwise be neglected. There are three well-attended Sabbath schools in connection severally with the parish church, the church at Lark- hall, and the Relief meeting-house there. The number of young persons, accordingly, between six and fifteen years who cannot read, more or less, is very small. From Gfteen years and upwards there maybe said to be none, of sufficient capacity to receive edu- cation, who have not been taught, or are in course of being taught, to read the Bible. Writing is by no means so common a qualifi- cation. The number of young persons at present receiving in- struction at the different week-day schools in the parish is proba- bly not much short of 800, or about a tenth -of the whole popula- tion. A subscription has lately commenced at Larkhall for the purpose of erecting, with the aid of a government grant, an addi- tional school there, in connection, if possible, with the new church. Ad institution of this kind would be of great benefit, and it is to be hoped nothing will occur to make the proposal miscarry. Libraries* — There are two subscription libraries in the parish, one at Larkhall, and another at Dalserf. The one at Larkhatl was instituted in 1809, and contains upwards of 500 volumes. The entry money is &s. and the annual payment 3s. The library is open at all times, and the librarian receives L.1 per annum. The library at Dalserf was begun in 1822, with a stock of books, amounting to about 120 volumes, which has not been increased. From causes which it would be difficult to explain, this library has for some years past nearly fallen into disuse. The books, how- ever, are carefully preserved in a good press in the parish school- room. There is no great taste for reading among the rural popu- lation. Attempts have been made, not without success, to excite and encourage such a desire among the young. A few years ago, two sets of the Kildare Street Library were placed at the disposal of the teachers in the parish, for circulation among their scholars, and there are juvenile libraries attached to the Sabbath schools. The parish has no Savings Bank. The nearest institution of the kind, and that very recently set agoing, is at Hamilton, »-l» 00 LANARKSHIRE. Friendly Societies.'^There are several friendly societies for mu- tual relief in cases of sickness. St Thomas's Mason Lodge it Larkhall consists of about dOO members; and about 60 more individuals are connected with a similar lodge at Stonehouse. There is a Colliers' Society, containing 30 members ; a Rose- bank and Dalserf Friendly Society with 60, and a Millheugh and Larkhall Friendly Society containing about the same number. There is also a very useful Funeral Society, which affords assist- ance to its members in case of a death occurring in any of their families. They possess a pail or one-horse hearse, which they also let out for hire. Under the head of societies mav be men- tioned house-building associations, of which there are several in the parish. The ^' Larkhall and Pleasance Building Society" was commenced at Martinmas 1814 ; the idea being suggested by the great demand which existed at that time for houses and weavers' shops, occasioned by the return of disbanded soldiers from the army and militia. The Pleasance Park, forming part of the lands of West Machan, and conststing of 4 acres, 2 roods, 12^ falls, was feued at I.. 8 per acre, the whole amounting to L.36, 12s. 6d. per annum. This piece of ground was laid off in three lengths, affording space for three rows of houses, a double and a single row, each house being 39 feet long, and 21 feet wide, with portions of garden ground attached to each. Each of the houses cost irom L. 45 to L. 60. The operations of this society were finished some years ago, and the association dissolved. Each member is now io- feft in his house as his own private property. Another associa- tion for a similar purpose, called the " Larkhall Building Society," was instituted at Martinmas 1824, and consists of 29 members. These each pay Is. a week to the treasurer for six years, or till the sum subscribed amounts to L. 16, 12s. Each member on getting a house pays Is. 3d. per fall for his own ground over and above the weekly payment of Is., and also L. 4, 10s. per annum as rent. The ground feued by this society at L. 10 per acre ex- tends to 2J acres, and 15 falls, belonging to the estate of Rap- loch, and lying on both sides of the Glasgow and Carlisle road, as it runs from Larkhall northwards. The ground allotted to each feu is 38 feet front, and 7 falls backwards. The houses built by this society are better than those erected by the former, and cost each about L. 70. The society is to continue till all the mem- bers are furnished with houses. Its operations are drawing to a close, and it will in a short time be dissolved like the former asso- DALSEllF. 761 ciatioii. The houses belonging to this society have been mostly built since 1831. Two associations of the same kind, of more re- cent origin, are now in course of active operation ; one is building on the lands of Raploch, lying on the two sides of the Glasgow and Carlisle road, as it runs from Larkhall to the southward, and another on the lands of Avonglen, near Millheugh, belonging to Mr William Gowans. The houses of the former cost L. 70, and those of the latter Lu 80. These societies do not proceed in the mere ratio of funds actually collected by them, but borrow money upon the value of their property and the security of the association and carry on their building operations with great rapidity. The effect of the whole system now referred to has been, and is to cause an increase of population far beyond the usual ratio. In a very few years, unless some check occur, there will be a startling accumulation of houses and inhabitants in this district, requiring something more than increased church accommodation and pastoral superintendence. Indeed, there is already much need of a jail or house of correction, with an efficient magistracy and police to take care that such a receptacle is not, when occasion requires, left un- tenanted. The different societies now referred to, especially the building ones, have beyond doubt had a favourable effect on the character of the people, by promoting frugality and industry, and cherishing a desire of independence. The friendly societies for mutual relief are not calculated to be of any lasting benefit. They begin to pay aliment before a sufficient amount of stock has been collected ; and hence, unless there be a large and regular accession of new members, which is seldom the case, they are in general in a very exhausted state by the time that the original con- tributors have died out. . Poor. — In 1791, there were twelve poor people who received regular monthly aliment The number on the roll at present is 50, among whom the sum of L. 15 per month is divided, at a rate varying from 2s. 6d, to 16s. each. The larger sum is paid for one or two bedfast paupers, requiring constant attendance. Besides the roll of regular paupers, there are about 40 persons who require occasional aid. The sum expended in this way by the kirk-session varies in different years from L. 45 to L. 60 per annum* For the last year it was L. 55. The parish has long been assessed. In 1791, the assessment was L. 44, 4s. At pre- sent it is about L. 210 per annum, levied, one-half on the heritors, according to the old valuation of their lands, and the ol\\^\ \vaM 763 LANARKSHIRE. oD the inbabitantSy according to their supposed means and cifeon* stances. The assessment on heritors is at the rate of 7id. per pound Scots. The proportion laid on inhabitants is nefer all res- lized. It would save much trouble in the collection, and hate al« together a good moral effect, if householders below a eertain raak and station were wholly exempted. An indiscriminate ssnBSiWsnt of the labouring poor just tends to augment the poors' roll, by creel- ing a desire to get back as soon as possible what has beeU} with difficulty, and grudgingly paid. The church ooUeetions (made with the ladle) have amounted, for some years past, to from L. 80 to L. 36 per annum. For the last year they have amounted lo about L. 40, shewing that the interests of the poor have not lof- fered from the abstraction of what was formerly contriboted bj the people of Lariihall and neighbourhood, now annexed to tlie new parish, which has the disposal of its own collections. Fron the above sum must be deducted extra collections for religioai purposes and session payments of various kinds, amouiiting in til to about L. 16 per annum, leering what remains fer distribotioD among the occasional poor. A very small sum is added to the session funds from the hiring of mortcloths, now almost abolisbed by the general use of pails. There is generally a collection st marriages for the benefit of the poor ; but the sums raised in this way are expended by the minister among needful persons on the spot, and not reported to the session. This parish has been fa- voured beyond most others around, in regard to donations and le- gacies to the poor. John Muir, Esq. some time merchant in .Que- bec, and who at the time of his death (1823) was tenant of Dal- serf House, left by will L. 50, to be distributed by the kirk-session among ten poor and industrious families, at the rate of L. 5 each, which was done accordingly. A short time prerious to the abofe date, William Stewart, Esq. a native of the parish, and some time merchant in Calcutta, bequeathed by will to the kirk-session, in trust for the benefit of the poor, L. 500, (deducting legacy du^, L. 450), directing the principal sum to be invested on heritable se- curity, or in the public funds, and the interest to be distributed on the first Monday of every year, among persons not entitled to relief from the heritors. A few years ago, Robert Hastie, Esq. cousin of the above gentleman, and likewise some time merchant in Calcutta, bequeathed, in more general terms, L. 100, (free of le- gacy duty), to the kirk-session of Dal^rf, for the benefit of the poor of the paf\sVv« TW \tv\At«%t arising from these bequests is DALSBRP. 763 distributed in small sums among fifty or sixty individuals, not re- ceiving regular parochial aliment. Several of the occasional poor, however, are in the number. But, virith whatever prudence this charity may be managed, there can be little doubt that the above legacies, however kindly meant, have contributed considerably to accelerate applications for regular relief, and to swell the roll of paupers. There is, whatever the causes may be, far less reluc- tance than formerly to apply for parochial aid. With honourable exceptions, of not unfrequent occurrence, there are far too many V'bo do not think it in the least degrading to seek, on not very pressing emergencies, public aid for themselves and their relations. The parish, about twenty years ago, by contributing L. 50 to the Royal Infirmary at Glasgow, acquired the right of recommending patients to that excellent institution. The session pays a sub- scription of Lb 1 annually to the Glasgow Eye -Infirmary, in order to procure advice and medicines for poor persons, labouring under diseases of the eyes. The poor's funds are to a large amount ex- pended among the manufacturing poor. Three-fourths of the whole sum collected go to Larkhall and neighbourhood. During reasons of dull trade, extraordinary collections and subscriptions have occasionally had to be resorted to. The coal-masters almost every year give liberal donations of coals in winter. But for the manufacturing villages, the parish could easily support its rural poor out of the church collections. Fair, — There is a sort of fair, accompanied by a horse-race, at the village of Larkhall in the month of June ; the only purpose served by which is to collect idle people, and to promote dissipa- tion and riot. Inns. — The parish contains 16 or 17 inns and alehouses, or, to describe the larger portion of them more correctly, shops for the retail of ardent spirits. Their effect on public morals is decided- ly bad. It is a pity but that the number of such places were di- minished, and those that are'allowed to remain placed under strict regulations. Night and Sabbath drinking are far too common. Miscellaneous Observations. Great changes in all respects, mostly for the better, have taken place in the parish since the publication of the former Statistical Account. Whatever room there may be for further progress, it cannot be denied, that, in regard to intelligence, the arts and com- forts of social life, general habits and appearance, and character 764 LANARKSHIRE. tnd conduct^ moral and religious, the people have, for a good while past, been steadily advancing, and have advanced, amidst all com- plaints to the contrary, in a ratio fully equal to that of the increase of population. The hand-loom weavers have, for some years hack, had to struggle with low wages and much discouragement. They have in general, however, borne their lot with great fortitude and patience^ and with far less deterioration of character than might have been expected. It is to be hoped, that better times will come to reward their good conduct and perseverance. In regard to rural matters, no person, who is able to look back twenty years, can travel through the parish without being struck -with the improvement that has taken place during that time, in regard to roads, fences, houses, and a better and more spirited style of fisurming. There is still, in many things, great need of a further advance, as will be seen irom some of the preceding state- ments. The upper part o! the parish would be greatly improved by belts of planting for shelter, of which it is at present nearly des- titute. A large portion of the same district stands much in need of draining, and especially of furrow-draining. This improvemeot has commenced in several places, and, it is to be hoped, will be persevered in, till the whole ground in the parish is made dry and rendered fit for a more regular rotation of crops. In regard to any ground, deserving of the name of soil, no expenditure gives a speedier or surer return than the money spent on drains. Lime applied to wet and damp ground is, in a great measure^ thrown away. Landlords ought to build better farm-steadings on the lar- ger farms of the parish, as they are required. At present, about two-thirds of the farmers of the parish perform manual labour, along with their servants. Although large farms are scarcely adapted to this part of the country, there might, by judicious ar- rangements, be an improvement in this respect The Clyde, in several places, requires embanking. Besides smaller evils occurring from year to year, the river about once in every six or seven years, overflows its banks to a considerable ex- tent, destroying the ripe grain in autumn, and in winter and spring, carrying off the young wheats, manure, soil, and all ; and some- times depositing beds of sand or gravel on considerable portions of good haugh land. Something has been done on the farm of Over- ton and elsewhere to prevent this evil ; but the improvement would require, for the farmer's security, to be carried to a much lai^r BOTHWELL. 765 exteDt. Id regard to all the improvements indicated in these re- marks, it may with safety be anticipated, that, if matters go on as they are doing at present, the next Statistical Account of this pa- rish, given at a similar interval, will present contrasts still more striking and satisfactory than those between this and the last. April 1840. PARISH OF BOTHWELL. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. MATTHEW GARDINER, D. D. MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — In the " Rotuli Scotiae/' (temp. Edward. I.) preserved \n the Tower of London, and now published by order of Govern- ment, this parish is mentioned under the form of Botheville. It is variously written in subsequent reigns, as Bothuel^ Boethwelly Bothellj and Bothwell; and in a charter granted to Dame Marga- ret Leslie, Countess of Angus, in, 1581, it assumes, apparently for the first time, the present form of Bothwell. According to Bullet, (Memoires sur la Langue Celtique), the name is derived from Bothj an eminence, and wallj a castle, and was given to the Castle of Bothwell, as standing considerably elevated above the Clyde. A more probable conjecture is, that it is a compound of the two Celtic words bothy in its signification of a dwelling^ and ael or Ay/, a river ^ a habitation on a river, which is strictly descrip- tive of the castle in this parish, as it is also of the Castle of Bothell or Bothall, in Northumberland, the one situated on the Clyde, the other on the Wentsbeck. Situation and Boundaries. — The parish of Bothwell is situated tn the middle ward of the county of Lanark, on the north-east bank of the Clyde. In form, it somewhat resembles the figure 8, or a sand-glass, being narrow at the centre, and widening spheri- cally towards both ends. Its extreme length from Tillers Burn, ^on the east, to Calder Bridge, on the Glasgow and Carlisle road, on the west, is about 8 miles and 5 furlongs ; the breadth in the • Drawn up hy the Rev, William Patrick, HamWtoiv. 766 LANARKSHIBK. centre from Beakhead mill, on the south, to the bridge ofer tk North Calder, on the Hamilton and Airdrie road, is 1 mile 6^ furlongs; towards the extremities, it widens to nearly 4 mileSi It is bounded on the east, by the parish of Bertram Sbotts ; on tlw south, by the South Oslder and the rifer Clyde, which difida it from the parishes of Dalziel, Hamiltop, and Blantyre ; and on the west and north, by the North Calder, which separates it from the parishes of Old and New Monkland. It contains about 8,185 square miles, equal to 10,814 Scots acres, or nearly ia^6(M) im- perial acres. Topoffr^pkieal Aiytearanees.^-This parish forms part of the Id^ undulating and sloping bank on the north-east side of the Cljda^ which extends from Lanark to within a few miles of Glasgow.. Oo reaching the parish of Bothwell, it recedes considerably from the course of the river, leaving a large intermediate plain or haugh d great beauty and fertility. It again revisits the river at Bothiell Bridge, and before it retires a second time, forms apiece of table- land upwards of a mile in extent, from the bridge westward. At the head of this table-land, the church and village of Bothwell are situated, and command a beautiful and extensive view of the nk of Clyde to the east. The view westward from the village of Ud- dingston at the other extremity is almost equally beautiful acd picturesque. There is a gradual but pretty rapid descent from the eastern extremity of the parish for nearly four miles. A flat of about equal length succeeds, declining on the south, towards the CaUer and the Clyde. The western extremity merges in the extensiTe plain on which Glasgow is situated. The following is a list of the relative elevations above the level of the sea, of a few of the different localities of the parish. Both- well church, situated near the south-west boundary of the parbb^ and eight miles distant from Glasgow, 120 feet; Bothwell firidge^ eight miles and a half from Glasgow, 80 feet; Bellshill, about a mile and a half north from the bridge, 372 feet ; Holytown rail- way, nine miles south-east from Glasgow, 335 feet ; eastern boun- dary of the parish, fifteen miles south-east from Glasgow, 680ieet« A few beltings of trees would add greatly to the beauty and fer- tility of some of the higher grounds in the upper district of the parish. The farms below are better sheltered. The family-seats on the banks of the Clyde and the two Calders are richly wood- ed, and iWe \s mueVv ^tv^ ntood in other parts of the parish. BOTHWELU 76T Meteorology, '^The variety of elevation id the several districts of the parish occasions, of course, a corresponding diversity in the temperature 6f the atmosphere. In the lower division, com- prehending the villages of Bothwell and Uddingston, and the whole bank of the Clyde, the climate is mild and genial ; the warmth is comparatively diminished at Bellshill and Holytown, which are situated in what may be called the middle district of the parish, and the change is still more sensibly felt in ascending to- wards the higher grounds in the eastern district. The following tables of observations, made by the writer of this article at Jerviston in the winter of 1830 and spring of 1831, will give a pretty correct view of these seasons in this parish, and of the average climate of this part of Scotland. Jerviston stands at an elevation of about 330 feet above the level of the sea. Two observations of the barometer, and four of the thermometer were taken daily. November 1890. Morn. Even. Weather. 1 87* 4Xy Wet all day. 2 as 46 Pleasant. 3 36 40 Very wet. 4 32 38 Clear ; bail. 5 35 36 Loud thunder. 6 37 44 Pleasant. 7 36 45 Do. 8 39 42 Do. 9 40 44 Very wet. 10 36 40 Do. 11 36 42 Do. 12 37 44 Do. 13 40 40 Pleasant. 14 46 49 Very wet. 15 40 48 Pleasant. 16 46 48 Rainy. 17 47 49 Pleasant. 18 46 49 Do. 19 47 50 Do. 20 48 52 High wind. 21 38 44 Wet. 22 37 42 Pleasant. 23 39 43 Do. 24 36 44 Do. 25 46 53 Do. 26 39 47 Do. 27 37 42 Dull. 2B 40 42 Do. 29 39 41 Do. 30 46 52 Do, wet. December 1830. Thermometer. Morn. Even. Weather. 1 38<» 41' Dull, wet. 2 43 45 Dull. 3 42 42 Do. 4 41 44 Do. 5 39 36 Do. 6 34 35 Do. 7 33 42 Cold, pleasant. 8 37 36 Clear evening, wet. 9 41 44 Do. pleasant. 10 32 37 Frosty. 11 32 34 Frost evening rain. 12 33 34 Cold north winds. 13 32 34 Hoarfrost. 14 34 36 Clear, no frost. 15 40 41 liain, stormy. 16 36 36 Very wet. 17 35 39 Clear. 18 37 40 Stormy. 19 36 38 Do. 20 35 37 Wettish. 21 39 35 Wet. 22 35 34 Drifting hail. 23 36 36 Cold north wind. 24 32 34 Frost. 25 32 34 Do. 26 32 34 Do. 27 32 34 Do. 28 32 34 Do. 29 32 33 Po. 30 32 35 Do. wind vS. W. 31 32 36 Do. LANARKSHIRE. 1U17 1831. Weiiiber «) it .12 .1 as 4 la fi A'i 7 9 .w :(> SB -Jl B7 .■u •ffl HI i» S7 V-l 37 37 »fl ■,« IH w ■.>■> »> :ff »] 3l> 46 «) 4A 4A 4t 4.1 ,W 17 ,W 4A a) 54 Sil M '£1 4fi 2S 4fi 24 4r lU 4S UK 41 a? AS w 47 3)1 4,^ 3U 50 Fobtuirr IS3I. "i""- WraUier. 32" Snow, wind,. 23 36 25 37 Rnadi blacktd up- Clear and plaBiL Rain. IIcuTT mio. Frosly. Slighl fall of Hi< Cold, obillj. 1 45- 40- Do. r.in: 2 46 42 Shower;. 3 44 37 Plavnt. 4 46 44 Dull. 5 50 46 Frt«i croaking. 6 48 44 Pleannl. 7 53 44 '"'£-"•■ B g 49 52 45 49 Do. 10 50 47 Do. 11 55 46 High wiDd. 12 M 44 Do. 13 48 45 Wet, Monnt. 14 52 48 Do. 15 61 47 Uniectled. 16 56 46 Dark, ilonnv. 17 57 56 Tk>. 18 57 50 Not K. bad. 19 57 40 Ver; ple«anl. 20 48 41 Do. 21 51 46 Do. 22 52 49 Do. 23 54 42 Do. 24 51 49 Do. 25 56 48 Sowing. 26 51 49 V<„5\<»«.v \ W »! as Do. \ w sa \1 Do. \ ■» w. «a TVi. \ 5» !fl. ^^ Wet all dij. Clear. Mild, ihomrT. VerrBoe. Do. Sboverj. Pine. Vcrrfis*. Lowering, 1 Fide. Dull. BOTHWELL, 769 The three summer months of 1831 vfere clear and fine, with very little rain. In May the average height of the barometer was 29.87 ; in June 29.89, and in July 29.80a The extreme range of the thermometer in May, was from 45 to 63; its average height in the morning was 57 ; in the evening 48.9. In June it averag- ed in the morning 66, and in the evening 58 ; and in July, in the morning 65 ; in the evening 59. The warmest day in June was the 4th ; the thermometer standing at 78. On the 7th of July it reached the same degree. A rain-g^e of a superior construction has been kept at Both- well Castle for some years. It is placed at an elevation of about 80 feet above the level of the sea. For the last two years the in- strument has been in an imperfect state of repair. The follow- ing are the notations in 1834, when it was in good condition, and regularly observed. January, February, March, April, May, June, Dr MacCulloch observes, ^' the air is good and the climate health- ful. A ridge of high hills about ten miles north carries off the clouds and vapour that may be raised from the Atlantic, or other- wise. A long stretch of high ground does the same service on the south, and the parish, on account of its separate state, happily re- mains unaffected, while the storm is driving along both." The most frequent winds in all this district are the west and south-west. These prevail generally for about two-thirds of the year ; and chiefly during the latter part of the summer months, and the autumn and winter seasons. A cold dry wind from the east and north-east is not unusual in the beginning of March, and at that period is of great benefit in preparing the ground for the seed, and forwarding the operations of the husbandman. The same wind prevails not unfrequently in May, and during the ear- lier part of June ; and then its visits are far from being equally welcome. When of long continuance it checks the crops in their growth, withers the blossom of the orchards, and blasts the pros- pects of the cultivator and the fruit*merchant. The weather is generally fine when the. wind is south-east, but if it does rain, the storms are heavy and of long continuance. On 4.800 inches. July. 1.325 inches. 2.220 August, 2.313 2.586 September, 3687 0.314 Octobt-r, 1.700 1.000 Nuyember, 2.796 2.375 December, 1.104 770 LANARKSHIKE. an average of years, the wind is seldom above ten or twelve days due south or north. The greatest quantity of rain falls during the prevalence of the west wind* The following table, kept at Jerviston in 1828, 1829, and 1880, shews the periods during which the different winds prevailed m these years. Days Days Diyt Days Days DaTS Days Days Incheiof N. N. E, N.W. & 8. E. S. W. E. W. ram. 10 20 30 6 80 150 27 02 24.079 8 40 72 80 25 120 10 60 2aoi 10 20 80 10 20 160 5 no 2S.04 1828, 1829, 1880, '^28 80 182 46 75 480 42 262 72.126 As the mornings and evenings in spring and autumn have of late years not unfrequently been cold and frosty, and the winters on the other hand open, the following observations with respect to the degrees of cold at which different crops are injured, made many years ago by the late Mr Henderson, gardener at Woodhall, a man no less distinguished for his personal worth than his pro- fessional eminence, may not prove devoid of interest. Potatoesi from 2 to 4 degrees (Fahr.) below the freenng point. Clover, 8 Do. Green peasci 4 Do. Barley, 4 Do. Beans if wet, 4 Do. Oats, 7 10 Hye grass. 9 Do. Turnips, . 24 80 Do. Frosts in this district seldom penetrate a foot into the earth. From thermometers kept under ground during two years, it was ascertained that the lowest temperature at one foot from the surface was 33°, at two feet 35°, and at three feet 39°, and the highest at these respective depths 35% 52"*, 5 and 52°. Climate. — Throughout the whole parish the climate is good, but it is considered peculiarly ^lubrious in the neighbourhood of the village of Bothwell. The medical practitioners in Glasgow not unfrequently advise their patients when in delicate health to seek for convalescence from a residence there during the summer months. Summer quarters in the village and neighbourhood are consequently in great request, and the hopes of the visitants are seldom altogether disappointed. Instances of unusual longerity are numerous throughout the parish. Disease in an epidemic form is seldom experienced, and it may BaTHWBLL. 771 not be improper to mention, that, when the adjoining parishes on every side were lately visited with cholera, some of them severely, the parish of Bothwell was exempted from its ravages — only one instance o.ccurred among its numerous inhabitants, and that in the case of a gentleman who attended the funeral of a relative that had died of the disease in Glasgow. Hydrography.'^The principal river in this part of Scotland is the Clyde* It takes its rise near Queensberry hill, at the south- em extremity of Lanarkshire, and after a winding course of about seventy- four miles, andbeingenlargedby many tributaries, it reaches the parish of Bothwell at Bothwell Haugh, opposite the race^course of Hamilton. Running in a north-west direction, it forms the south- em boundary of the parish for upwards of four miles and a-half, and is h^e a broad majestic river. From the nature of its channel its waters are rather of a darkish hue. Above Bothwell bridge it runs through fertile haughs, which it sometimes overflows in winter. Below the bridge the banks suddenly contract, attain in some places a considerable elevation, and have long been celebrated for their picturesque scenery. There is a song of very ancient date com- memorative of the beauty of these banks, beginning ^^ Bothwell Bank thou bloomest fair," regarding which a not uninteresting story is quoted by Dr MacCulloch from Vestigan's Restitution of decaved Intelligence in the last Statistical Account. The Clyde at Bothwell Bridge is upwards of 7 1 yards broad ; at Blantyre works, a little below the bridge, 120 yards, and at Both- well Castle upwards of 80. On the 25th of July 1835, when the thermometer stood at 76^ in the shade, the temperature was 68^. The mean temperature of the springs is about 50^. The north and south Calders have already been mentioned as forming boundaries of the parish. They are both tributaries to the Clyde, which they join after a separate course of about fifteen miles ; the former takes its rise from the Black Loch in the parish of New Monkland ; the latter from some marshes in the parishes of Shotts and Cambusnethan. As the name indicates, they are waters with wooded banks, and throughout the greater part of their course are extremely beautiful and romantic The bold rocks on either side of these streams are of sandstone, and are richly adorned by over- hanging woods, and a profusion of native plants. The beautiful and graceful kingfisher, and the common sand- piper or killileepie, are often to be seen, frequenting the rocky beds 772 LANAUKSIUUE. of these streams. Their watery are also much resorted to by dippen (Cinclus aquaticusjf and a variety of other birds^ The holes be- neath the rocks afford excellent shelter for foxes, otters, polecats, and badgers. The Tiller-hnrn rises near the manse at Shotts, and after pursu- ing a westerly course, falls into the Calder near Cleland House. There is abundance of excellent water in all quarters of thepa^ rish, obtained chiefly from open wells. Iron or chalybeate waters abound ; they are often found associated with sulphuretted spriogs, and have probably one common origin. Immediately opposite the Monkland Steel Works, on the Both- well side of the North Calder, a spring strongly impregnated with alumina, and depositing a quantity of iron-ore in its course, issues from a valuable bed of aluminous schist, now wrought to gre^ ad- vantage. The aluminous principle is so strong as to set the teeth on edge when the water is tasted. The water was analysed by Dr Hugh Colquhoun of Glasgow, and the principal ingredients wefe found to be sulphate of iron and sulphate of alumina, with a consi- derable quantity of sulphate of lime, and a very little sulphate of magnesia. As a medicinal mineral water, Dr Colquhoun supposes it would not be of any value ; diluted with common water, it might, perhaps, be used as a tonic in some cases under the daily superio- tendence of a medical adviser, and might also be used with ad- vantage to bathe certain external sores. Dr Colquhoun adds, I have no doubt that the mineral spring flows through a stratum of aluminous schist, from which schist alum might be manufactered; but whether the manufacture would be profitable, is another ques- tion. The well has been injured by the mining operations. Geology and Mineralogy. — A stratum of the new or upper red sandstone stretches along the whole of the western parts of Both- well, and penetrates into several of the neighbouring parishes, forming the great key to the geology of this part of Scotland. This new or upper deposit, which, so far as the writer hereof knows, has not been noticed as yet, or described by any author in connection with the mineralogy of the district,* covers a great part of the south-west edge of the great coal basin of the Clyde. In its southern extremity, it reaches near to the village of Quarter, in the parish of Hamilton ; extends northwards by Chatelherault, • This Account was drawn up in J 836. 3 BOTnwELi.. 773 crosses th« Clyde somewhere between Hamilton Bridge and Both* well Bridge, and runs in an undulating line towards Bellshill and Langloan, which last is its northern extremity; proceeding then in a western direction, it passes from Langloan through Baillieston, towards Tollcross, near Glasgow, recrosses the Clyde above the iron-works at Bogleshole, extends south-west near to Dechmont hill in Cambuslang, takes then an easterly direction, and passing through the east and north-east parts of Cambuslang and Blan- tyre, re-enters Hamilton by Carnock House, and runs on by Meikle Earnoch and Simpson land to Quarter. Tliis rock is of a bright-red colour, sometimes soft and friable, but in general compact and well suited for building ; in some places it is marked with dark spots, as if iron water or some carbonaceous inatter of a blackish colour had percolated through it. The soil immediately above it is generally a red clay, often very tenacious, and mixed in many places with a white argillaceous matter, exactly resembling pipe-clay. This is succeeded by a thin crust of sandstone, of a pure white colour, or by thin slabs resplendent with mica. It is interspersed in some places with layers which are so tough that they can scarcely be either cut or broken, and fragments of older and harder rocks are everywhere imbedded in it. This descrip- tion is drawn chiefly from some quarries which have been lately opened up. About four or five feet above the upper sur- face of the rock, there is found in some instances a thin stratum of what appears to be iron-sand, (aahh ferruginetix^) much re- sembling some of the Wealden formations found in England, Po-' land, and Germany. In its general appearance it bears a striking resemblance to the brown sandv slas: which comes from an iron- work, but when bruised with a stone or hammer it is reduced to a rusty brown sand, full of small, and often minute pisiform or reni- form nodules of ironstone. The bed upon which this stratum rests is a yellow ochreous clay. A large section of this description was lately laid open in a field at Blantyre works, nearly opposite Both- well Castle ; no animal or vegetable remains were found ; the bed is about six inches thick, and extends a long way into the country, often impeding the labourer when casting drains, &c. The red sandstone is much fractured, and in the beds of rivers and ravines, it may be seen towering up to a great height, hav- ing no inapt resemblance to a piece of Cyclopean architecture. The seams of these fractures arc lined with soft red clay, and no LANARK. 3 D 774 LANARKSHIRE. blaes or shale is ever found above it. In some places, k rests on a white sandstone rock, and in other places on shale, either blue or of a bright-red colour. This rock is superincumbent on all the coal formations in this part of the country, the upper surface of the former lying at an average from fifteen to thirty fethoms above the upper surface of the coal measures : it covers an extent of country about nine miles in length, and from four to eight in breadth. There is a great deposit of sand near its south-east ex- tremity, at Chatelherault, and another at its north-vrest extremity, near Tollcross. Coal abounds everywhere in this parish, but in the lower division, where the red sandstone occurs, it lies at too great a depth to be wrought with advantage at present ; the attempt con- sequently has not been made. Four good workable seams at least extend throughout the greater part of the parish, contain- ing in all about twenty feet of coal. These may be described under their local names. The first of these found on boring is thirty-seven inches thick, and hence is termed the ell coal. It generally rests upon a bed of fire-clay two feet thick, abounding with petrified mussel shells {Mt/tilus crassus, Flem. Edin. Ph. Journ. No. xxiv. 246, tab. ix. f. 3). From seven to ten fathoms below this first seam, the Pyotshaw coal is found, in thickness from three to four feet ; descending seven fathoms farther, the main coal five feet thick is reached. Sometimes these two seams are found united, and then they constitute what is called the nine feet coal. At a depth of from fifteen to eighteen fathoms below the main coal, the splint coal is come to, which, as the name implies, is of a hard, splintery quality, and is the best in the country for smelting iron ; it is found on analysis to be composed of 75.00 carbon ; 6.25 hydrogen ; 12.50 oxygen ; and 6.25 nitrogen. This last seam varies from three feet nine inches to four feet six inches in thickness ; it and the main coal abound with iron pyrites. The roof of the splint coal is rich both in animal and vegetable re- mains. Carfin, in this parish, is not far from the centre of the great coal basin of Lanarkshire. This rich mineral field may not in- aptly be described as forming a triangle of the isosceles kind, about twenty-one or twenty-two miles in length, of which Glasgow is the vertex, and a line drawn from the Clyde south-east to Polkemmet, the base. It has been estimated to contain about 55,000 acres, BOTHWELL. 775 or about 1 10 square miles, probably averaging 20,000 tons per acre, but, taking the medium thickness of the whole field at fi?e yards, it will give to each mile 15,448,000 cubic yards, which, multiplied by 110, the number of square miles, gives 1,709,680,000 cubic yards of coal. Rosehall, Carnbroe, Wood- hall, Stevenson, Carfin, and Cleland, all properties in the parish of Bothwell, and on all of which collieries are now at work, would supply an annual output of 400,000 tons for upwards of 3000 years. The thickness of the various seams in the three following dis- tricts of this great basin is as follows : — Carfio coal field. Coltness coal-field. Ell coal from 4 ft 1 1 in. to 7 it 2 in. Upper coal, 10 feet P^otshawcoalS 10 - 3 10 Main-coal, - 6 Main coal, 3 8-38 Lady Anne coal, - 6 SpUnt coaly 3 9-46 Berryholm coal, - 3 16 2 10 2 25 Wishaw coal-field. Upper coal, - 9 feet Main coal, - 7 Lady Anne coal - 3 9 inches. 19 9 At Cleland coal is found 9 feet thick; at Chapel, 7 feet 8 inches; at Pickerstonhill, 9 feet; at Garion Gill, 8 feet 9 inches; at New- mains and Catbum, 9 feet, and at Allanton 1 1 feet. The field is intersected by two dikes, which produce considerable derangement in the metals. One of these crosses Bothwell pa- rish at Newarthill, runs to the west by Legbrannoch, passes through the Garion Railway tunnel, and enters the neighbouring parish of Old Monkland to the north-west, a little to the eastward of Carn- broe House. The field, or section thrown in by this dike, is ter- minated by another which enters the parish at Lauchop Mill, passes due west through Chapelhall and Monkland Steel Works, crosses the Calder north of Woodhall House, and probably joins the other dike near the above-mentioned tunnel. Besides the four workable strata above described, about twenty- six other seams have been observed, varying from a few inches to one or two feet in thickness. Ironstone is also found in considerable quantities in the parish, and is at present wrought on Woodhall estate, near Holy town, at Calderbraes, and on the Farm of Greenside, near Newhouse. It it chiefly what is termed the black-band ; lies from 1 5 to 25 fa- 776 LiANARKSUIBB. thomi below the splint coal, and varies from 10 to 16 inches in thickness. The ore varies exceedingly both in quality and coloiir. The following is all analysis of a pretty good specimen of this mi- neral as found in the district :— - Protoxide of iroD, . • . . aa Cvbomc add, aiMl other vdatila matter, 88. flilicm 11.8 Ltme* • . • . . 7.4 Alumina, . . . . . 8.8 Magneiia, and coaly matter, &6 100. No lime is wrought in the parish ; it lies far below all the ootl seams and beds of shale and freestone, and only crops oat aloog the edge of the great coal basin after these minerals are no longer to be found* To the east and north*east of the red sandstone, the strata lying between it and the black-band ironstone, may be seen cropping ool in succession upon the estates of Jerviston, Carfin, Stevensoi^ Cambroe, and Woodhall. On the banks of the North CaMer, between Woodhall and Monkland Steel workis, the splint coal aod black-band crop out, aflTording a fine section of the rocks with which they are connected. The foundation, or under stratum, of all the coal measures in this district is the moorstone rock, which is equivalent to the nuU" stone grit of the English fields. Mr John Craig of Glasgow has made a pretty extensive and very interesting collection of organic remains found in this parish, both vegetable and animal. The vegetables are mostly Pinites, and are usually found in strata of slate clay; beautiful speci- mens of Equisetum and various Catamites are also frequently found ; these occur in the shales, in several of the coals, and also in the solid sandstone, and it is observable that they are always converted into the substance in which they are imbed- ded. Zoology. — Tlie animals of this district are noticed at length in the account of the parish of Hamilton, and it is unnecessary again to particularize them. The relative numbers of the different species may be stated as follows*: — Mammalia, 29 species ; birds, 105; reptiles, 8; fishes, 13; moUusca, 14, and insects noticed, 500. Salmon at one time abounded in this part of the Clyde, but BOTHWELL. 777 their numbers for many years past have been greatly diminished. Various causes have been assigned for this, such as the exten- sion of the fisheries below Glasgow — the constant plying of steam- boats on the river — the impurities and noxious substances that are carried into its waters from the dye-work.^ on its banks, and the factories in the neighbourhood, and, above all, the impediment which is presented to their progress up the river by the dam thrown over it between Blantyre Mill and Bothwell. The fish are seen in great numbers during the spawning season (from September to Decem- ber) struggling to get over this obstruction. As many as 150 leaps have been counted within fifteen minutes ; the attempt is rarely successful. Botany. — The parish produces a great variety of interesting plants. The following are a few of the less common : Allium vineale Pulmonaria officinalis Polemonium csruleum Unaria Cvmbalaria w Senecio Miiticenicus Gagea lutca Rumcx Hydrolapathum Tulipa sylvestris Daphne Laureola Hespcris inodnrata Scropliularia aquatica Torincntilla reptans Lvsiinachia nummularia Senecio tenuifolius Cichorium intylnis Nuphor pumila Arum maculatiim- The Scirpus sj/lvatictis, beautifully striped like gardeners' gar^ ter (Phalaris arundinacea) ^ is found at Woodhall. Of Miscellanea— Filicesy Muscij HepaticcB, AlgcBy and Fungi^ the following may be given as a specimen : £quisetum sylvaticum Ophioglossum vulgatum Aiplenium scolopendrium . I trichonaanes ... viridc Phaacum acaulon Polytrichum subrotun^ dum Mnium pellucidum Bryum striatum Bryum roseum Hypnum lucens , — rufescens — ^~~— plumosura Jungermannia yiticulosa Marchantia androgyna Lichen byssinus Conferva glutinosa ~-~. dissiliens jVlerulius cantharellus Agaricus velatus Bryum truncatulum — — ^ marginatum Hypnum denticulatum — sylvaticum Agaricus nitidus — — >«— clypeolariut — lachryma- bundus Boletus aurantiaeus. The following will afford some idea of the distribution of plants in this parish : Acotyledons. Fungi Licbenes Alg» CharacesB Gramine» - CyperaceiB • Junces Melanthacew Aaparage* - 86 Hepatic® - 16 Marsiliaceas - 50 M usci 39 Equisetacea - 4 18 Filices 14 2 Lycopodiacen Monocotyledons* 2 37 Asphodelefe - 5 Orchiden 6 21 Liliaces 1 AroideaB 4 10 Aniaryllidea? o Juncaginev 1 1 ridea? 1 Fluvialas 6 2 Alismaceflp 1 778 LANARKSHIRE. DicaiykdamM, Corylbeea • 5 Apoeinea - 2 HjoertclDi* - SdJfeliMi . 12 Af^m - 2 FflfaM UhnMMB • 3 ErieiiiMB - 3 Urtie» - 4 Vaccine* - I EuphorbiMMi S MonotropMB 2 Rwcdiof - 1 CampwmtaoMi 8 ^ , , ThTiiiclcs • I CompomUB 40 £?!3!!?3C?* - FbljgoaMi - 7 DipMOM - 3 *?T*?_*™ * Cbmopodem 6 Rubiiwee - 6 SS^^*" * PlanU|riDe0 2 CaprilbliaoMB 6 GaUm - PrinmEMKe 5 UmWlifcr. 17 f!!'*^ ', Lmtibiilaiw 1 Suifragw - 5 Cnicifcr» - I Helampyraces I OroMaTari* • 8 Fmnarte LtbfaiUi - 19 HaUHri«c« - 2 ^^TVT • , Serophukrines 21 Onagnuri* - 8 B«i»nd* - 1 Solanes - 8 SaHcven - 1 RjumnaolMHi IS BonigiDes - 9 Ronwca - 80 YwiMamm - 4 CoDTohnilMMi 8 LcgominoiB 2! IL — Civil Hi8Tokt. In the reign of Alexander IL, the barony of Bothwell was hM by Walter Olifard, the justiciary of Lothian, who died in 124i In the troublous times which followed the death of Alexander HI. it was in the posession of a family of the name of Moray. It then consisted, as appears from early writs, of *' a tower and fbrtalioe and their pertinents," and of lands in various districts, constitutiii; a lordship. It is not, however, till the reign of Edward L of England, that the castle and barony of Bothwell are brought pro- minently into notice. From an article in the Rotuli Scotiae, already mentioned, entitled ** Progressus et Mansiones Edwardi Primi re- gis Anglise dum bellum in Scotia gerebat," it appears that Edward resided in the Castle of Bothwell from the 17th to the 20th Sep- tember 1301. In 1307, Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, fled from Loudon hill, where he had been defeated by WaUaoe^to Bothwell Castle, and in 1309 he was appointed governor of the castles of Selkirk and Bothwell According to Barbour, Sir Wal- ter Fitzgilbert, ancestor of the family of Hamilton, was governor of Bothwell at the time of the battle of Bannockbum, as appears from the following lines : The Earl of Herford fra the MelU Deputed with a great menay, And straucht to Bothwell took the vae That in the Inglis mamjnhj. Was halden as a place of wer, Schyr W^alter Gilbertaon was ther, Capitaine, &e. &c. On the death of Robert Bruce, Edward IIL again invaded BOTHWELL. 779 Scotland. In 1336, he was at Bothwell from the 18th of Novem* ber till the 13th of the following month, and in the course of that time fifteen writs, of greater or less importance, were given at Bothwell, having the following marks subjoined : ^^ T. R. apud Bothwell, P. I. P. M. regem." Some of these writs are entitled as follows : ^* Rex Edwardus in Scotia agens assignat commissa- rios ad tractandum apud Londinum de defensione Angliae," &c. (11th December.) ^^ De supersedenda electione hominum in di- ¥ersisoppidis,"&c. (18-25th November.) The Castle and Lordship of Bothwell afterwards passed through a great variety of hands. The changes which took place in the possession are fully enumo'- rated in the former Statistical Account, and it seems unnecessary to repeat them here. Archibald Earl of Forfar, who died at Stirling in 1715, of the wounds he received in the battle of Sheriffmuir, was then proprie- tor of the lordship. On his death the estates returned to the possession of the family of Douglas. Archibald James Edward, first Baron Douglas, was, after a long litigation, confirmed in the possession of them by a decision of the House of Peers in J 771. They are now possessed by his eldest son and heir, Archibald, second Lord Douglas. This parish is associated with one of the most interesting events in the history of Scotland — the engagement which took place be- tween the troops of Charles II. and the Covenanters, on the 22d June 1679, commonly called the Battle of Bothwell Bridge. The circumstances are too well known to require particular detail. The king's forces, under the Duke of Monmouth, were drawn up on the Bothwell side of the Clyde. The Covenanting army, amount- ing to about 4000 men, occupied the opposite bank, belonging to the Duke of Hamilton. The centre of the bridge, which was then long and narrow, having a portal in the middle, with gates, had been barricadoed by the Covenanters, and was the chief scene of the engagement This post was defended by Hackston of Ra- tbillet and Hall of Haughhead, with 300 men. Hackston dis- played great courage, and did not abandon the pass till all his ammunition was expended. When his men were withdrawn, the Duke's army, with their cannon in front, defiled along the bridge, and formed in regular line as they reached the other side. The Duke commanded the foot, and Claverhouse the cavalry. The Covenanters were soon thrown into disorder, and fled. Monmouth 780 LANARKSHIRE. humanely issued orders to stop the effusion of blood ; but ClaTer- house^ burning to avenge his defeat at Drumclog, and the death of his kinsman, made great slaughter among the fugitives. Four hundred were slain, and twelve hundred made prisoners. These events are thus described in Clyde, a poem by Wilson, reprinted in Scottish Descriptive Poems^ edited by the late Dr Leyden. Edin- burgh, idoa Where Bothwell's Bridge connects the margin steep* And Clyde below runs silent, strong and deep, The hardy peasant by oppression driven To battle, deemed his cause the cuusc of Heaven. Unskilled in arms, with useless courage stood. While gentle Monmouth grieved to shed his blood ; But fierce Dundee, inflamed with deadly hate. In vengeance fur the great Montrose's fate, I^et loose the sword, and to the hero's shade A barbarous hecatomb of victims paid. There is an original painting of this battle in Hamilton Palace, said to have been sketched by an artist on the spot. According to a tradition in the village of Bothwell, when the Royal army was lying near the bridge, a child having wandered into the camp, vas found by its parents, after a long search, sitting on the Duke of Monmouth's knee, who was caressing it with great tenderness. Oweris Experiment, — As connected with the civil history of this parish it may he proper to notice, that, in the year 1825, an es- tablishment was formed at Orbiston, near Billshill, on the prin- ciples of the co-operative system, or Mr Robert Owen's " new view of society.'* The avowed object of the founders was to fur- nish in this institution a model for others of a similar nature throughout the country, which, as they boasted, ^' were to re- moralize the lower orders, to reduce the poor-rates, gradually to abolish pauperism, with all its degrading consequences, and to relieve the country from its (present) distress." The first step to- wards the attainment of these most desirable objects was the erection of a building in the form of a parallelogram — a form es- sential to the new system. Such a building was accordingly com- menced, to contain when completed 1200 persons. The following is a schedule of the estimated expense of the whole establishment: 1200 acres of land, at L.3() per acre, . . L.36,0i0 Apartments for 12CK) persons, . . . 17,000 ^ Three public buildings within the square, . . IKOOO Manufactory, slaughter-house, and washing-house. . 8.000 Furnishing 300 lodging rooms, at 1^.8 each, . . . 2.400 Furnishing kitchen, schools, and dormitories, . 8,000 ^ Two farming establishments, with corn-mill, malting, and brewing ap- pendages . . 5,000 BOTHWELL. 781 Making the interior of the square, roads, &c. Stock for the farm under spade cultivation, Cootingencies and eitras, r.3,000 4,000 6,600 L.96,000 Which sum, divided among 1200 persons, was at the rate of L.80 per head. Scarcely a fourth part of the parallelogram was 6nished, at an expense greatly exceeding the original calculation. It consisted of a central building with a spacious wing, of freestone, four sto- reys high, and garrets. Each flat was bisected by a passage run- ning from the one end to the other ; on either side of the passage there were eighteen rooms, of comfortable dimensions. Within this structure a population, amounting at one time to 60 adults, and 120 children, was collected from all parts of Scot- land, England, and Ireland, certainly not the elite of their respec- tive countries, and the system was commenced. The inmates as- sembled to their meals in a public room, which was fitted up for the purpose, but they did not all fare alike. There were four dif* ferent tables, and four different rates of expense. At the first table the charge for breakfast, dinner, and supper was 14s. per week ; at the second table, 10s. ; at the third, 7s. ; and at the fourth, 5s. 6d. A theatre, lecture-room, and school-rooms were attached to the establishment, and the children slept in dormito- ries, apart from their parents. The principles professed by the managers of the concern, and the regulations by which they attempted to carry the new system into effect, it would not be easy to explain, and it could serve no good purpose. There was a small publication distributed among the members, entitled " The Religious Creed of the New Sys- tem, with an Explanatory Catechism, and an Appeal," &c. The author, Abram Combe, who was also overseer or principal mana- ger of the establishment, says in the preface, " The following pages contain a candid statement of the religious impressions which an attentive perusal of his, (Mr Owen's,) writings has made upon my mind." From this statement, we learn that Mr Combe re- ceived what he calls his '* religious impressions" from an attentive perusal of Mr Owen's writings, and they are certainly worthy of such an origin. The chief merit of his book consists in its being for the most part utterly unintelligible. So far as a notion can be formed of its contents, it may be justly characterized as a farrago of crudities, absurdities, unfounded and infidel assertions, that can 782 LANAUKSHIRB. impose on no man of ordinary understanding, and that could bare been derived only from writings such as Mr Owen's. The con- duct of the disciples of the new system was in perfect consistenc; with their creed. They gloried in the open desecration of tlie Lord's day. Some, it was said, followed their ordinary occupa- lions on the Sabbath, others spent it in seeking amusement, aDd not a few prostituted it to the purposes of intemperance. They made no pretensions to superior virtue, and they disregarded the ordinary forms and decencies of civilized life. Si& individuals died at the establishment, and were interred in a private burying-ground connected with it. Their corpses were carelessly shut up in uo- stained fir deal coffins, and, without any mark of affection or re- spect, were committed to the grave by a few of the inmates in their ordinary clothes, after working hours. Mr Combe, afler eulogizing Mr Owen's discovery as calculated ** to produce the happiest effects to the whole human race, with- out injuring in the slightest degree the interest of a solitary indi- vidual," adds, ^^ its utility and practicability may be incontroverti- bly decided, by a short experiment, whenever mankind shall be induced to make it." The experiment was made at New Orbis. ton, and the result was the very reverse of all Mr Combe's antici- pations. It was most injurious to the interests of the gentleman who conveyed to the establishment the lands on which the buildings were erected, and on whose credit chieflv the funds necessary to their erection were procured. It was worse than useless to those who enrolled themselves members, and embraced the principles of the institution ; and it terminated, as was easily foreseen by all but Mr Owen and the dupes of his delusion, in a total failure. After struggling for a short time with impracticable difficulties, it becaioe necessary to dissolve the society, and to dispose of the property. The buildings, which originally cost L. 12,000, were estimated to the purchaser at L. 2000. When taken down the materials were resold for less than the purchase money, and now not one stone is left standing on another. There is one circumstance connected with the history of this establishment which it would be unpardonable to omit. When the runious state of the parish church led to its abandonment, a portion of that fabric which had been upreared for the pi^ pagation of infidelity, supplied for two years, afler it had been vacated by the inhabitants^ a convenient place of worship to BOTHWELL. 783 the minister and congregation, where they regularly assembledVith the returning Sabbath to adore and serve that God who maketh the wrath of man to praise him, and whose goodness they desire gratefully to record in providing for them a sanctuary in their time of need, where they could meet together in comfort, to confess their faith in Christ, to learn his will, and to celebrate the ordinances of bis appointment. The name given to the establishment by the founders was Now Orbbton. It was universally known throughout the country by the more appropriate appellation of Babylon.* Buildings. — Bothwell Castle, one of the residences of the Right Honourable Lord Douglas, is of plain simple architecture, but a large commodious mansion, consisting of a centre and two wings, built of the same red stone as the old Castle. The public apart- ments are very spacious. In several of the rooms there are many excellent portraits, not a few of them by Vandyke. There are al- so one or two relics not unworthy the attention of the antiquary. The old Castle of Bothwell and surrounding grounds have long been celebrated, certainly not without reason, for more beautiful or striking scenery could scarcely be conceived : — the waters of the "flowing Clyde," — its bold and richly wooded banks, — the stately ruins of the old Castle, and a hundred other beauties — all contri- bute to ornament these truly classic grounds. The walks along the banks of the Clyde and the pleasure-grounds are laid out with exquisite tast^, and are kept in the highest or- der. Woodhall, situated on the banks of the North Calder, near the village of Holytown, is also a spacious mansion. The property was long in the possession of a family of the name of Hamilton, who were barons of the barony of Thankerton, anciently part of the Lordship of Torphichen. It now belongs to W. F. Campbell, Esq. of Islay, and is well known for its extensive gardens, vineries, and green-houses. The celebrated W. Aiton, Esq. of Kew Gar- den, was gardener at Woodhall before he went to London. The house is of the style of architecture of the age of Louis XIV.; the apartments contain a number of good pictures, and a variety of excellent busts ; the library is ancient and curious ; in the en- trance hall there are several French cuirasses and helmets of brass, * Another Babvlon, uiion simil.>r principles, was lately reared by a lady of fortune in Oemuuiy, and has already, like the above, come to a disgraceful termination. 784 LANARKSHIRE. brought from the field of Waterloo. — Cairnbroe, t. e. the cairn of stones, the property of James Meiklam, Esq. ; St. Eooch's Hall, the property of William Hozier, Esq. both on the north Cal- der. Cleland, probably Clayland, the property of North Dal- rymple, Esq ; Carfin, the property of Robert Stewart, Elsq. ; Jer- viston, the property of Mrs Drysdale ; Douglas Park, the pro- perty of Mrs Douglas, all on the South Calder, are large and ele- gant seats. The grounds around them are extensive and pictu- resque, deriving great beauty from the bold and richly wooded banks of the streams on which they are situated. Bothwell Park, the property of Mrs Hamilton, is a large and handsome .building. It commands a beautiful and extensive view of Hamilton haugbs, and the vale of CIvde to the east At Cleland the united Presbytery of Hamilton and Lanark seem to have held their first meeting. The first entry in their re- cord is as follows, ** At Cleland, September 6th 1687, Session L Mr Andrew Morton, moderator." A little above the house in a rock on the bank of the Calder is a cave which is said to have been a hiding place for the persecuted, in the *^ troublous times." Bothwell Haugh, celebrated in history as the residence of James Hamilton who shot the Regent Murray, is now a farm belonging to the Duke of Hamilton. It is situated on the Clyde, about a mile to the east of Bothwell Bridge. On the night before Hamilton left Scotland for France, he took refuge at I^uchop, a property in the east district of the parish, belonging now to J. Roherton, Esq. but then to a family of the name of Muirhead. The proprietor was a brother in-law of Ha- milton's : and for the shelter afforded to his relative, his house was burnt to the ground, and he was amerced in a large sum by go- vernment. There are several other handsome residences in the parish, which, did space permit, might with propriety be particularized. State of Property. — The property of the parish is possessed by 45 heritors. The number of acres possessed by each — the valued rent in Scots money — the poor's stent from Lammas (1st August) 1835, to Candlemas 1836, and the statute labour money for the same period, are as follows. The poor stent and the statute labour money are for six months only. BOTHWKLL. 785 2 o ft* • SS statu res. 11 1 Statute labour. •? a \ Scots ac Valua Scots a« ♦• •4B* OB L. S. D. L. s. Sw L. s. D. L. 8. 0. W. F. Campbell, Woodball 1162 972 9 9 12 12 8 5 10 8 Lord Douglas 480 732 8 1 15 5 8 15 6 6 8 N. DalrTmple of Oleland J. Meikfeham, Carnbroe 679 618 9 6 4 104 5 10 752 443 6 8 8 5 H 2 7 3 5 .8 6 Do» for part of Orbiston 63 19 10 , I>o. for Unthank 91 4 8 Mrs Douglas, Douglas Park 453 401 10 Hi 8 7 2J 6 15 5 6 8 Do. for part of Orbiston 242 10 7 R. Steuart of Carfin 864 375 7 8 5 1 7 8 7 Mrs Drjsdale of Jerviston 305 33G 4 8 4 1 7 8 Duke of Hamilton 367 327 17 7 6 16 54 6 4 7f 2 15 J. G. Muirbead, Brondiesbolm 878 326 6 15 10 # 1 10 Do. for Newlands 30 J. Roberton of Lauchop 883 275 7 5 8 1 4 2 1 7 Thomas Gibb of Orbiston 807 259 17 104 4 16 SI 1 10 R. A. Ironside of Tannocbside 810 •261 12 11 8 17 1 9 Bi 1 7 R. Jolly of Stevenson 320 226 4 14 n 4 2 Mrs Hamilton of Boihwell Park 205 181 11 5 8 13 H 2 7 44 1 10 7 Mrs Vye Douglas of Kosehall 800 168 13 4 2 1 54 1 18 0* 1 8 6 Andrew Jack of Uddlngston 222 144 14 6 2 2 34 1 18 9 17 4 Tliomas Marshall of Sandyford 800 125 2 12 1 1 2 6 James Cross of Clydeside 105 117 18 9 2 9 2 8 9 9 CoL Elphinstone of Monklaod 110 115 10 9 2 8 24 2 10 1 8 11 D. M^Haffie of Parkhead . 155 108 10 8 1 1 74 2 1 9 1 John Rae, Uddlngston 120 100 12 8 2 I 114 2 7 3 15 7 John Bain of Westport 145 89 5 9 17 0| 2 14 16 104 Mrs Hamilton of Sweethope 60 86 8 6 15 34 2 14 15 8 Andrew Rae of Boog no 68 10 1 8 74 2 6 11 9 John Scott, Uddlngston 67 60 4 7 5 H 2 6 9 J. Wilkie of Knowhead 18 55 10 1 8 3i i 9 8 8 James Nalsmiih, Bothwell 55 48 9 18 1 12 64 10 Alexander Ross of Spindlehow 49 42 10 17 94 1 7 10 John Braken ridge, Parkbead 38 40 16 8 1 8 9 1 W. Robertson of Viewpark 50 25 10 5 1 24 16 104 Captain Cross, Lauchop -Mill 6 22 9 2 6 9 5 3 J. Braidwood, Uddlngston 26 21 7 4 8 1UI 1 7 078 W. Bogle of Bothwell-bank 25 19 16 6 8 4 1 12 7| 6 9 Capt. Aikman of Back Sweethope 60 17 18 1 7 M 1 7 0' U 5 8 W. Monteitb of Woodend 6 17 7 1 6 9 4 G. Scott, Daldowie 14 16 19 4 6 114 1 7 8 10 James Cross of Bent 22 7 2 11 18 6 8 2 r. Bald of Langdales 17 4 1 104 10 114 1 4 W. Scott of Kirklands 10 4 1 9 10 10 I 2 Captain Bogle 01 8 1 4 8 H James Watt, Aahlygrains 7 2 1 4 6 2f 1 2 James Reid, Orooa Iron-works 1 1 10 9 55 R. Kent, Botbwell Oi 11 8 10 10^ 1 F. Braidwood, Uddlngston 01 2 7 1 8 2 84 1 J. Eelintoun. Uddinffston 112 7 1 8 1 8 * The assessment for the poor's stent is at the rate of five pence per pound Sterling, for the statute labour at L.2, 14s. per plough-gate, or 18s. 6d a horse-gate. 786 LANARKSHIRE. In 1650, the rental of the parish was L.1950, 18s. 5j\A.; in 1782, L. 4431, 7s. 4d. ; in 1791, L. 5500 ; and in 1825, the whole annual value of real property assessed was L. 16,053. This includes house property and other means, which, it will be observed, are not taken into account in the preceding table. The additional value of landed property in this parish in Sterling money, at the present day, as compared with the period of the Union, may be about L. 10,621, 12s. 4d. The land is laid out in about 145 &rms and small teaements. Probably about 78 of the tenants are in possession of regu^ lar leases; the highest rent paid for any farm is L.340; up- wards of 1272 acrefs worth probably about L.2248 per annum, are in the natural possession of the proprietors themselves. The remaining acres (1 1,204) are tenanted, and are divided nearly as follows: Acres. Kent. Acres. Rent. Acres Kent. Acres Rent. Acres. kcnu 80 L.80 ISO L.100 130 L220 100 L.120 60 L. 80 90 90 100 90 12 40 85 80 ao 10 120 146 9 9 80 110 30 60 155 aoo 80 60 6 10 3 6 50 50 120 240 90 SO 85 170 80 130 18 25 145 IMO 45 70 40 60 110 150 6 6 40 90 150 220 5 7 90 180 10 20 3 13 40 50 22 22 3 6 10 15 10 12 14 12 174 340 50 50 10 20 o 12 8 8 70 55 80 80 80 110 5 15 50 45 90 180 40 40 25 30 110 200 16 14 80 170 50 60 30 45 60 125 85 30 8 20 50 40 6 9 18 40 60 50 24 6 35 30 4 8 55 ' .100 6 5 5 3 30 30 1 12 38 60 5 4 2 2 40 70 1 10 50 100 200 80 2 4 8 16 8 16 6 9 80 40 160 270 80 no 100 130 26 60 120 90 65 110 90 120 65 130 25 50 80 80 60 60 2.5 50 2 10 60 50 70 60 35 40 46 50 80 60 6 16 11 11 4 10 10 15 40 20 14 20 50 35 120 250 12 12 40 20 22 30 60 80 24 20 22 25 40 30 17 24 60 60 10 16 6 6 20 20 10 30 20 25 70 120 10 10 60 40 01 2 8 4 14 12 12 12 20 15 / 14 60 70 4 6 110 200 70 70 I 3 80 100 3 5 105 110 70 200 150 200 145 200 75 100 30 40 \ The above table is not scrupulously correct, but it is not for from the truth. The land of the parish may be divided pretty much as follows: Moor or coarse pasture, - 100 acres. "\Vwk\*, T05id^, "w«fl,\c&,U cayed state of some of the steps having rendered the ascent some- what hazardous, the entrance to it is secured by a door which is generally locked. But for this latter barrier the top may yet be reached without great difficulty, and the view to be obtained from it will amply compensate the labour and ribk of the attempt The entrance to the interior of the ruin is on the north about the middle of the wall ; vestiges of the fosse are still visible. The old well was discovered, about fifty years ago, in a corner of one of the towers, penetrating through the rock to a good spring. It has again been covered up. In the front wall, entering by a small opening from the court, there is a circular cavern about "20 feet deep and 12 in diameter, which from its form, is commonly knovo by the popular appellation of Wallace's beef-barrel. In former times it has evidently been used for the confinement of prisoners. Within and around the walls there are several turrets, distinguish- ed by the names of Valence Tower, Douglas Tower, &c There are also some chambers nearlv entire. A list of the successive proprietors is given in the last Statistical Account, quoted from a M8. of Mr Hamilton of Wishaw, now printed for the Maitland Club. Guthrie says that the castle was besieged by the Scots in 1337, who took it by storm, and dismantled it. This was two years after Edward III. had resided in it for twenty-six days, and in the same year that Walter de Selby was keeper. It is said that a great part of the ruin was taken down by the Earl of For- far, and the stones employed in building a modern mansion. The old Church of Bothwell is a very ancient structure, and presents a fine specimen of Gothic architecture. It was used in former times as l\ve c^vi^ ol ^^ ^^VW^vaXe church of BothwelL BOTHWELL. 789 In Catholic times, Bothwell was the most important of the five collegiate churches of Lanarkshire. It was established by Archi* bald Douglas, Lord of Galloway, (who married Johanna Moray, heiress of Bothwell,) 10th October 1398, and was confirmed by a charter from the King, 5th February 1398-9. It was about this period that the present quire was built. The master-mason, as was indicated by an inscription in Saxon letters on a stone near the outer base of the old steeple, now removed, was Thomas Tron. The roof is arched and lofty, and presents the most remarkable fea- ture of the building ; on the outside it is covered with large flags of stone, hewn into the form of tiles resting on a mass of lime and stone, which in the centre is 11 feet in depth. The side walls are strengthened by strong buttresses to support the weight of the roof. The old church was deserted as a place of worship in 1828, and now presents a very dilapidated appearance. For the credit of the parish it ought to be repaired. Bothwell Bridge. — The age of this structure cannot now be As- certained, but it is of great antiquity. In the Acta Parliamentorum, temp» Car. 1. there is an act (1647) for a contribution to repair the bridge of Bothwell. It consisted originally of four arches, hav- ing each a span of 45 feet, and 15 feet broad. Some years ago, a large addition was made to the old structure, by which the road- way was widened from 12 feet to 32. About a quarter of a mile east of Bothwell Haugh, there is a bridge across the South Calder, supposed to be of Roman con- struction ; it consists of one arch of a semicircular form, very high and narrow, and without parapets. The stones are neatly hewn, and well put together, and the whole structure is still in perfect preservation. It is supposed to have been on the line of the great Roman road called Watlin Street (so named probably from Vi- tellius), which ran through this part of the country for several miles, on the north-east bank of the Clyde. III. — Population. A comparative view of the population in former times, and at the present day, may be deduced from a variety of documents in the possession of the session-clerk. The following tables possess considerable interest, and are all derived from authentic sources. The parochial books, towards the beginning of last century, are very accurately kept, and may be depended on. About that pe- riod, the marriages, baptisms, and deaths, were as follows : LANARK. 3 E 790 LANARKSHIRE. Years. ProcUmations. Binbs. Deaths. 1700 15 98 82 1710 10 89 41 1720 16 33 27 1730 19 88 88 1740 20 32 29 1750 20 100 89 219 18 Totals, 6 years, 180 Averages, 16 86 80 If the 16 marriages be taken at the same ratio as at presentf (a very doubtful basis), the population about the beginning of the eighteenth century nrast have been 1672 souls, which is aboat 105 more than the return given to Dr Webster in 1755. At the same rate, there would be one marriage to 105 souls, one baptism to 47, and one death to 54. The following tables of the procla- mations, baptisms, and burials, from 1760 to 1800, e&tending o?er a space of forty years, and including an average of twenty-three years, are from an original manuscript engrossed in the population lists for 1801 by Mr Allan, late parochial schoolmaster of BothwelL Years. Proclama- • Baptisms. Deaths. | tlODS. Males. Females. Total. Males. Females. Total 1760, 22 21 22 43 20 15 35 1770, 18 39 36 75 17 6 23 1780, 19 41 42 83 8 10 18 1781, 26 32 42 74 17 15 32 1782, 22 35 46 81 12 18 30 1783, 23 42 32 74 10 7 17 1784, 26 41 30 71 20 21 41 1785. 16 29 49 78 16 13 29 1786, 12 25 27 52 6 9 15 1787, 23 42 38 80 19 18 37 1788, 31 46 39 85 19 16 35 1789, 26 45 49 94 13 16 29 1790, 24 51 50 101 28 25 53 1791, 27 35 43 78 23 27 50 1792, 34 as 39 72 14 20 34 1793, 34 40 36 76 23 30 53 1794, 21 39 28 67 23 25 48 1795, 24 32 34 66 18 15 33 1796, 27 37 53 90 13 14 27 1797, 29 35 32 67 22 20 42 1798, 30 38 33 71 24 35 59 1799, 37 39 15 54 22 35 57 1800, 33 38 21 59 19 20 39 836 Totals, 584 855 836 1691 406 430 Averages. 254 374 364 74 16 20 36 1 If we take the average population through the above period at 2000, which is perhaps a short estimate, there is one marriage to 77 persons nearly, one birth to 28, and one death to 55. In compar- ing this with the former period, it is observable that the marriages BOTHWELL. 791 and births have greatly increased, while the proportion of deaths is nearly the same. It was about 1760 that rapid advances began to be made in agriculture and commerce. With these the com- forts of the people and the means of subsistence were multiplied^ and afforded the encreased facilities of contracting marriages, and rearing families, which the above tables indicate. The following tables of the present proportion of births, mar- riages, and deaths, are scarcely so accurate as the former. The proclatnations are quite accurate, but the baptisms and deaths were made up from a variety of sources. They are, however, very near the truth. Proclamations. Births. Deaths. 1830, 44 196 146 1831, 46 190 150 1832, 56 179 160 1833, 56 201 140 1834, 61 196 132 1835, 55 180 133 ToUli, 318 1142 861 Average s, 53 191 144 Taking the present population at 6402, there will be one mar- riage to 120 persons, one birth to 33, and one death to 45 nearly. As compared with the two former periods, it stands thus : One marriage One baptism One death Population. to to to From 1700 to 1750, 105 . 47 54 1672 From 1760 to 1800, 77 . 28 55 2000 From 1830 to 1836, 120 - 33 45 6402 Averages 100| 36 54| 3358 The marriages are the best ascertained of all the above tables. The following estimate, made up from an inspection of the pro- clamation books belonging to the parish, will furnish an idea of the proportion which the different classes of people marrying bear to each other. Those marked at 4s. and 10s. are of the poor and working classes ; those at L. 1, Is. are the higher and wealthier parishioners. These sums are paid as the fees for proclamation. At 48. AtlOs. AtL .1. Is. 1830, B 32 10 • 2 L. .13 14 1831, «. 30 15 . 1 19 1832, . 44 8 . 4 20 3 1833, • 39 10 - 7 20 3 1834, • 44 11 - 5 19 11 1835^ - 34 14 - 7 20 3 Totals, 214 68 26 L. 122 12 The proportion married who pay L. 1, Is. is about a twelfth of the mjiole numbers proclaimed ; those who pay 10s. are less than a fifth ; and those who pay 45. not quite two-thirds. T92 LANARKSHIRE. The following is a state of the population at different periods since the first census was taken for Dr Webster in 1755: Years. Souls. 1755, 1561 1791, 2707 laoi. 3017 1811, 3745 1821, 4844 1831, 5545 1836, 6561 Increase. Marriages. Births. Deaths. 21 42 33 1146 27 101 53 310 34 90 59 728 45 110 79 1099 51 184 139 701 46 190 150 1036 55 180 133 The increase in eighty-one years is 5020, which is at the rate of 62 nearly per annum. The increase in the neighbouring parish of Hamilton is 75 per annum. The relative numbers of the popula- tion in 1791 and in 1821 were as follows : 1791. 1821. Under 15 ^ears of age. 1112 2089 From 15 to 70, 1535 2647 Above 70, 60 106 2707 4844 The following particulars were ascertained in 1821 at the time of taking up the census : Males. Females. 5 years of age and under, 416 360 5 to 10, a 333 368 10 — 15, • 304 308 15 — 20, • « 247 250 20 — 30, • • 368 403 30 — 40, • • 256 249 40 — 50, • • 214 209 50 — 60, • • 123 150 60 — 70, . 83 95 70 — 80, • 36 45 80 — 90, . • 9 17 90 to 100, . 1 2390 2454 «= to 4844 souk Between 1811 and 1821, there were 1504 births, 800 were males, and 704 females, and 890 deaths, of which 460 were mal«, and 430 females. The excess of births over deaths is 614, and there is 151 births per annum as an average, and 89 deaths. The population in 1821, at the following ages, was as follows: _- - ,^ Males. Females. Total Under 15 years of age, . 1053 1036 2089 Between 15 and 30, . 615 653 1268 30 and 50, .470 458 928 50 and 70, .206 245 451 Upwards of 70, . . 46 62 108 2390 2454 ^U The males below five years of age are about a twelfth of the po- pulation, and the females are a thirteenth. The males above seven- 779 900 1500 1600 1801 495 519 612 1022 1122 526 606 711 1061 1161 195 213 241 806 406 287 d06 320 873 473 425 471 461 482 582 BOTHWELL. 793. ty are 46, and the females 62, = 108; being less than a fortieth of the population. The population of the several districts into which the parish is usually divided, at different periods since the last Statistical report for the year 1791, is stated below : 1791. 1801. 1811. 1821. 1831. Woodhallt Lauchope, and Lideridge, Stevenston, Carfio, Cleland, Jerviston, . Orfoiston, Upper and Lower, Back of Moor Carnbrae, UddingBtone and out-farms, BoChwell out-farms and castle, 2707 8017 3745 4844 5545 The following particulars are from the census taken up for the Church Commission in 1 886 : Souls. Under 7 yearg. Under 12 years. Bothwell village and out-farms, 725 152 240 Uddingstone and Bothwell Castle, 644 141 206 £• Bellshil], Parkhead, and Low Orbiston, Holytown, • . Chapelhall, Newartbill, Legbrannock and Thankerton collieries, and Omoa foundery, Total in villages, In the country part of the parbb, ToUl population, . 6581 1347 2018 The total increase since 1831 is 1036 souls, which is at the rate of 207 per annum. At the first enrolment of voters there were 140 L. 10 voters upon the roll. At last general election 65 voted for the Liberal candidate, 41 for the Conservative, and 34 did not vote. Present number of voters 181. 1801. 1821. 1831. Number of families, . . 786 980 1091 Average number of children in each family, 4 4} 5 Number of inhabited houses, . 711 836 1086 Houses uninhabited or building, . 21 13 41 Character of the People, — There is a general taste for cleanli- ness among the people. The village of Bothwell is remarkable in that respect, and the Douglas Arms Inn, in the village, long kept by Meg Steel, was, in her day, famous as perhaps the cleanest house in the county. The agricultural part of the population are sober, active, and intelligent, regular in their attendance on the house of God and the public ordinances of religion, and careful to give their children the best education which their circumstances will afford. Since the introduction of weaving by steam, the hand^loom weavers have been sadly depressed in their circumstances. It is with ex- 975 755 841 564 185 146 199 110 185 239 332 180 864 193 306 5368 1213 1124 2283 1688 330 .~ ^J 794 LANARKSHIRE. treme difficulty that they can rear and educate their families. Few of their children now learn the trade of weaving, or continue at it after they have learned it, if they can find employment otherwise. Their number is consequently diminishing. The condition of the other operatives is in general comfortable. The colliers and mioefs e&hibit the usual characteristics of these classes. IV. — Industry. The following list, including the principal trades in the panshy with the number employed in each, is given in the last Statistical Account Bakers, 4 Blacksmiths, 19 Shopkeepers, 14 Tailors, 14 Stocking-weavers, . 21 Shoemakers, . 22 Colliers, . 50 Millers, . 6 Masons, 41 Coopers, 6 Weavers, . 407 Innkeepers, 20 Joiners, 19 The trades and occupations in 1836, and the number of hands employed in each, have been very accurately ascertained^ They are as follows : Colliers, . 263 Shoemakers, . 23 Gamekeepers, . 7 Labourers, . 211 Stocking-wcavers, 18 Overseers, . ^ Weavers, 407 Tailors, . 16 Sawyers, 7 Farmers, . 78 Slaters, . 2 Grooms, . ^ Publicans, 52 Gardeners, . 15 Toll-keepers, . 4 Blacksmiths, 38 Engineers, 13 Surgeons, . o Shopkeepers, . 37 Bakers, . 8 Graziers, . ^ Masons, . 29 Teachers, . 10 Millers, . ^ Joiners, . 27 Moulders, . 7 Carters, . 27 Flesh ers, . 6 Besides the above, there are bricklayers, horse-keepers, hostlers, cooks, road-makers, coachmen, butlers, mole-catchers, carriers, &C. ; one or two of each. Since last report of the parish, the num- ber of colliers has increased from 50 to 263. Agriculture. — There can scarcely be said to be either moss, moor, or morass in the parish. In general the whole land is ara- ble. The soil is chiefly clay, variously mixed with loam, sand, and till. In some parts it is of a lighter mould. It is very fertile towards the Clyde, and there is much excellent land in other parts of the parish. In the west districts, manure is procured from Ha- milton and Glasgow. It is supplied in the east by the villages which are enlarging and multiplying with the public works. From the nature of the soil, and the declination of a great part of the parish towards the Clyde, on the south, frequent showers are of advantage, both in spring and summer. In favourable seasons the crops are abundant, and of excellent quality. BOTHWELL. 795 The usual rotation of cropping when the last statistical report was prepared, was, summer fallow, limed or dunged. First year, wheat ; second, pease ; third, oats sown with grass, cut one year or two, and pastured as many, or instead of oats the third year, barley, prepared with frequent ploughing and dunging, and laid down with grass seeds. At present there can scarcely be said to be any regular rotation generally followed. On a farm, say of 84 acres, the mode of cropping adopted is pretty much, as under 8 acres wheat; 2 potatoes; 10 pease and beans; 10 hay; 25 oats; 8 fallow; 21 pasture.' There are in the parish 346 horses charged on the Statute La- bour Act, at Ids. 6d. per horse, assessed on land ; 33 charged at the same rate, not assessed on land, in all 379 horses, paying an annual ta& of L. 233, 13s. lO^d. The number of cows kept is about 1 000, and of the 12,044 arable acres English, upwards of two- fifths are in pasture. The number of pigs may amount to about 600. The dairy cows are almost all of the Lanarkshire variety of the Ayrshire breed ; a description of which is given in the ac- count of the parish of Hamilton. The lower parts of the parish are well enclosed. The usual duration of leases is nineteen years. The farm-houses, are, for the most part, neither so good nor com- fortable as they ought to be. There are some, however, both com- modious and in good repair. In place of horses, the late Lord Douglas occasionally employ- ed oxen at Bothwell Castle, in agricultural labour. By a careful examination, and comparative estimate, made by Mr Creech, his Lordship's late highly intelligent manager, the following interest- ing facts were ascertained : " An ox at the price of L 7, 10s. is equally strong in draught with a horse at L. 20, and equally fit for the plough, cart, or har- row. The ox requires one-fourth less fodder than the horse, and on- ly a little unthreshed oats, from an eighth to a sixth of what is re- quisite to support the horse; and if 14lbs. of raw potatoes be given to the ox in a day, he will require no oats, and will not consume more than half the fodder eaten by the horse. The ox may be wrought from four to ten years of age, and still encrease in size, and be capable of carrying more flesh when he is turned out to fatten, whereas the horse in that time will lose much of his value. The ox may be turned to pasture in summer, as soon as he is taken from the •yoke, and will gather his own food without requiring any 796 LANARKSHIRE. corn or attendaDce. The ox is as much fatigued with seven hours work in the day, as the horse is with eight. After the ox has filled bis belly, he must have time to ruminate, and therefore cannot be baited and put to work a second time the same day like the horse, without being greatly injured." The village of Uddingstone has been long famous for the manu- facture of Wilkie's plough, which is now generally used in all the well cultivated districts of Scotland, and in many parts of England; and is to be found in almost every quarter of the globe. It was first made by the late Mr John Wilkie in 1800. From 1800 till 1810, it was mounted with a wooden frame-work. Since 1810 it has been wholly constructed of iron. It is lighter, more manage- able, and forms a more acute angle than any plough at present known. The common two-horse plough weighs about IJ cwt and costs L. 4. Some of superior workmanship and materials are charged as high as eight guineas. Cast iron socks were introduced in 1829, and are now generally used, especially in the west of Scot- land. The demand for Wilkie's plough in the West Indies has greatly increased since the emancipation of the slaves. Last year it amounted to 150. It is there drawn by oxen, and is highly recom- mended by George Richardson Porter in his late work on the Su- gar Cane. Upwards of 10,000 ploughs have been made by Mr Wil- kie and his sou since the year 1800. Mr Wilkie also invented an adjusting brake or cultivator, used chiefly as a grubber, auxiliary to the plough, in working fallows and cleaning land ; and his son and successor, Mr James Wilkie, has invented the horse-hoe, and a drill harrow of great utility to the farmer.* Agricultural imple- ments of all kinds, and on the most improved construction, are made at his works. Quarries and Mines. — There are several quarries of excellent freestone, towards the Clyde, of a red colour, and white in the up- per parts of the parish. There is also abundance of coal. The ell coal, the nine feet coal, and the splint coal are all wrought at Chapelhall. At Woodneuck, there is a seam of splint coal wrought, seven fathoms below the ironstone. The iron-works are supplied with ironstone chiefly from Airdrie hill, Meadow hillj Calderbrae, and Dalmacauther. The Monkland Iron and Steel Company, who have works at Chapelhall, make from three ftr- He has likewise invented a new turn- wrest plough, for which he last jear receiv- ed a premium from the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland. 4 BOTHWELL. 797 naces, 1100 tons of pig-iron per moDtb ; from other two, which are nearly ready to blow, they will make 900 tons additional.* They likewise manufacture about 100 tons of steel yearly, of which about 30 tons are made into files. Thirty tons of scrap-iron are collected monthly, and wrought into steam-boat engines, and other articles. Upwards of 700 individuals, viz. colliers, miners, furnace-men, forge-men, and labourers, are employed at the works. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, so far as can be ascertained, may be stated as under : Produce of erain of all kinds, whether cultivated for the food of man or the domestic animals, . . * . ]^. 20>000 Potatoes, turnips, pease, &c. . . 5,000 Hay> whether meadow or cultivated, . . 3,000 Crops cultivated for the arts, such as flax, &c. . 100 Pasture, .... 5,000 Gardens and orchards, . . . 900 Miscellaneous, • 600 263 colliers put out say 8 tons each a-week, or 14,736 per annum, at 58. per ton, . . 2,205 8 26,700tonsofpig.iron, at L.5perton, . 163,500 Ironstone and other minerals, • . 500 Total gross value, . L. 200,205 8 V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Towris Sfc. — The nearest market- town is Hamilton, which is about two miles distant from the church. Glasgow is eight miles distant, and Airdrie about seven miles. The principal villa- ges are, Holytown, Bellshill, Newarthill, Chapelhall, Bothwell and Uddingstone. There arc post-offices at Bothwell, Bellshill, and Holytown. Means of Communication. — The means of communication by roads are very extensive. There are in the parish 17 miles, 2 fur- longs, 9 perches of toll roads ; and 83 miles, 4 furlongs, and 24 perches of parish roads. The conversion money for statute labour raised in the parish of Bothwell during the last fifteen years is as follows : 1821, 1822, 1823, 1824, 1825, 1826, 1827, 1828, Total, * Sinee 1836, the two furnaces have been completed. The Monkland Company are also preparing mills and forges capable of producing upwards of 220 tons of mal- leable iron per week. At Cai nbroe, Alison and Co. have erected two furnaces ca- pable of yielding 130 tons per week, and frequently run ten tons at a cast;— two more *re building, and other two are contemplated. L.332 10 1829, 330 1830, 325 7 7 1831. 346 15 64 1832, 368 16 U 1833, 371 ^ 1834, 342 64 1835, 336 18 L.356 4 6 . 365 17 1 337 3 308 5 U 420 12 84 322 11 4J 321 6 lOf L.5216 16 14 798 LANARKSHIRE. The L. 321, 6s. 10|d. for 1835, were paid in the following pro- portions : To 523 householders, assessed at 2s. 6d. each, . L. 65 7 6 Horses not assessed in land, at i3s. 6d. per horse, • 22 5 6 346^1 horse-gangs, at Ids. per horse, . - 283 13 10| L.321 6 10} All the Glasgow and Edinburgh coaches which go by the south road pass, along the whole length of the parish upwards of eight miles, and the Glasgow and Carlisle mail, the Hamilton, Laoark, and Strathaven coaches run about four miles through it, alongthe great London road, each twice a day. A railway has been com- menced, and is in a fair way of being soon completed for the pur- pose of connecting the Clydesdale or upper coal-field of Lanark- shire with the city of Glasgow. The Wishaw and Coltness Rail- way Company was incorporated for this purpose by an act passed in 1829. The railway is to run through the estates of Caro- broe, Jerviston, Carfin, Dalziel, Wishaw, Coltness, Cleland, and Allanton. The length of the respective lines of this railway, and the esti- mated expense, are as follows : Main line, 10 miles, 7 furlongs, 199 yards, - L. 50,000 Cleland, ... - 6,000 Hosehall branch, I furlong, 80 yards, - 500 Gillhead do. 100 yards, - - 500 L. 57,000 Lowest estimate for bridge at the Camp, - 7,200 Total expense of Jerviston lot, - - 17,000 As the work has proceeded, the expense has been found greatly to exceed the original calculation. Ecclesiastical State, — Both well and Shotts anciently formed one parish, which was divided at the Reformation. At the period of the Revolution 1688, this district seems to have been very desti- tute of Presbyterian ministers. It is minuted in the Presbytery books of Hamilton, 6th September 1687 ; " The parishioners of Both well of the Presbyterian persuasion give a call to Mr Robert Muir, who at the same time is called to three or four other places." January 24th 1688, " They call Mr Russel, who like Mr Muir, refuses to come." June 27th 1688, " They call Mr John Orr, and are opposed by another parish, though Mr Orr was not yet licensed. He was ordained at HoUowtown (Holytown), 26th Sep- tember 1688 in face of the congregation." Mr William Cullen BOTHWELL. T99 of Saughs, grandfather of the celebrated Dr Cullen, was one of the elders. Mr Orr was translated to Edinburgh, and was suc- ceeded by Mr William Hamilton, 1709; Mr James Hamilton, 1746; DrBaillie, 1762; Dr M'Culloch, 1767; Dr Gardiner, 22d April 1802. The first call after the Revolution on the United Presbytery of Hamilton and Lanark for a presbyterial visitation to inspect a church and manse, was by the parish of Bothwell, 26th August 1688^ which the Presbytery refused, on the ground that they can- not legally visit. In compliance, however, with the desire of the gentlemen commissioners from that parish, they appoint Mr Ro- bert Muir, 'who was settled at Kilbride, Mr Alexander Young of Hamilton, and Mr Archibald Hamilton, to meet with the gentlemen of the parish on Wednesday 27th August, the day following — ** to give them their advice," which they did accord- ingly. The church is quite new, having been opened for public worship in 1833. It is a very fine building, not surpassed, perhaps, by any country church in Scotland. The style is Gothic, corresponding with that of the old fabric at the west end of which it is erected. The walls are supported by buttresses — the windows are large and finely formed. In the centre, where the old and the new buildings join, a lofty and elegant tower has been reared, rising to the height of 120 feet, and forming, perhaps, the finest feature in the structure. The prospect from the top on all sides is extensive and magnificent, and it affords a better panoramic view of the county of Lanark than is to be obtained from any other site* An excel- lent bell and clock have been placed in the tower. The bell was provided by parochial assessment, and cost L. 146, 16s. ; the clock, which cost L. 138, by voluntary subscriptions from the heritors and inhabitants in the west district of the parish. The length of the building is 72 feet, the breadth 45. It is seated for about 1200 sitters, and cost L. 4179. ' A preaching, station has been opened at Holytown. By an ad- dition to the schoolroom, built and seated by subscription, a com- modious place of worship has been provided, sufficient to accom- modate 300 persons. The Rev. D. M'I-«ean has been chosen by the sitters to officiate at the station, and the minister of the parish exchanges pulpits with him once a month, for the purpose of ad- ministering baptism to the children of the parishioners in that dis- trict. Subscriptions to a large amount have already been obtain- 800 LANARKSHIRE. ed for building a new church to the east of Holytown, on a site . which will comprehend within a radius*of little naore than twomiles a population of four thousand ; all of them upwards of four miles distant from the parish church ; the majority of them between six and seven miles.* A Relief meeting-house was erected at Bellshill, in the centre of the parish, in 1763. It is seated for about 1000 hearers. The congregation is drawn from this and neighbouring parishes. There is a good glebe and manse attached to the establishment; also a pretty extensive burying ground. The stipend is paid fiom the seat-rents and collections. A place of meeting in connection with the United Secession was built at Newarthill, in the north-east district of the parish, up- wards of twenty years ago. It also has a manse attached to it The building will contain about 600, and the stipend is also paid from the seat-rents and collections. The ecclesiastical statistics of the parish stand thus: — Establish- ment, 3811; Relief, 1607; Secession, 595; doubtful, 309; Catholics, 118; of no denomination, 64; Old Light Burghers, 22; Episcopalians, 17; Unitarians, 17; Cameronians, 16; Bap- tists, 5 ; total, 6581. In the village of Bothwell, and in the neighbourhood of the pa- rish church, there are few Dissenters. They multiply around the meeting houses for the sake of convenient access to the house of God, rather than from disaffection to the Establishment. Politics have, perhaps, added to their numbers, and in some instances have led to the neglect of religious duties altogether. Divine service is generally well attended in all the places of worship. The average number of communicants in the parish church is 650, of whom 248 are male heads of families. The Duke of Ha- milton is patron of the parish. The stipend was augmented, ih 1 804, from 6 chalders, 1 boll meal, 1 chalder of bear, L. 46, 188. in money, to 12 chalders of victual,* whereof 97 bolls of meal, and 95 bolls of barley, and L. 618, 12s. 2d. Scots money for stipend, with L. 100 money foresaid, for furnishing communion elements; • The new church has been built, and contains 830 sittings, almost all of wbicn •re let. It is clear of debt, and in the most thriving condition, under the able and efficient ministry of the llev. Robert Gillan. The stipend is paid from the seat-rents and the collections at the church door. The district allotted to the minister at HoIt- town, quoad sacra, is named Holytown parish, and consists of that portion of the old parish which lies to the east of the Wishaw and Coltness Railway. It contains al- ready more than 4000 inhabitants, and the population is rapidly increasing. BOTHWELL. - 801 and in 1821, it was again augmented to 18 chalders, half meal,, half barley, with L. 10 for communion elements. The manse is large, comfortable, and in good repair. The glebe consists of above 4 arable acres, but is deficient in the legal allowance for pasture. There is an orchard of nearly two acres, bat the soil and the situation are not considered favourable for fruit trees, and the crop is precarious. This parish has been distinguished by the' liberality of its col- lections and contributions for religious and charitable objects. The first collection for the British and Foreign Bible Society amount* ed to upwards of L. 90 ; the second to L. 50 ; the largest, perhaps, that were made for the society in any country parish in Scotland. An association was formed in 1816, for aiding religious and bene- volent institutions in general. In that year upwards of L. 60 were raised by subscriptions and donations, and distributed among the Hamilton Auxiliary Bible Society, the Hibernian Society, the Society for Gaelic Schools, and other institutions of a similar na- ture. When the Apocrypha controversy took place, the Hamilton Bible Society was dissolved, and tho/association at Bothwell was also allowed to go down. The average yearly collections at Bothwell, (as distinct from Holy town parish,) for religious and charitable purposes, may be stated at L. 50. Education, — There are three parochial schools in the parish, one at Bothwell village, another in Holytown, and the third at Newart Hill. The incumbent in the former has the maximum salary of two chalders ; the other two half a chalder each. The school-room at Bothwell is at present in a very wretched condi- tion^ totally inadequate to the number of scholars, and in such bad repair as to be absolutely injurious to health. In other respects {Be school is in a most flourishing condition, under the. efficient superintendence of Mr James Hamilton, the present master.* The number of scholars may average from 1 00 to 120. The branches taught are, English, writing, and arithmetic, geography, Latin, and Greek. The school-fees for reading are, ds. per quarter; for reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, and English grammar, 4s. Latin and Greek, 5s. The average number of scholars attending tbe school at Holvtown is about 20, and at Newart Hill above 100. There are besides the parish schools, several on private adven- * Ad excellent school-room and dwelling-house for the teacher have recently been baih, partly by parochial assessment, and partly by private subscription. 802 LANAUKSHIUE. ture, viz. one at Uddingston ; two at Belkhill ; one at HolytowD ; one at Thankerton colliery; one at Legbrannock; and tvo^it Chapel Hall; in all, 11 day schools; with one ezceptioD, all well attended. There are also 7 well attended Sabbath achools in the parish, which have been sources of great benefit to the chil- dren in the populous districts where they are established. . The people in general are alive to the benefits of education, and do not hi\ to have their children taught English reading, writings and arithmeUc. Among the children of the colliers, who are fre- quently moving from one parish to another, a few may be found destitute of these qualifications. A parish library was established in 1798. Some of theor^;inal subscribers were tainted with Paine's principles, and several books were introduced, which were calculated neither to establish the faith, nor to improve the morals of the readers. On that ao* count, its dissolution some years ago occasioned no regret to the serious part of the community. Several families have excellent private libraries, and new and expensive publications can easily be procured from the libraries in Hamilton and Glasgow. There are four libraries connected with the Sabbath schools. CTiarities. — In 1577, the Countess of Forfar mortified a sum to send a boy to the College of Glasgow, " born of honest parents within the regality of Bothwell, ten years of age, and edu- cated within the school of Bothwell." One John Scott was sent in 1777. The terms of the deed have rendered the mortification useless to those for whose benefit it was intended ; and it is said that the faculty of the University have appropriated the annual proceeds to the enlarging of the class-rooms of the College, and other purposes, which they consider, as the deed requires, to be " for the glory of God.** James Hamilton, late mason in Glasgow, bequeathed L. 200 to the parish of Bothwell in 1778, to " remain in the hands of the session as a sunk stock, the yearly annual interest to be appli^ for the purpose of paying the apprentice-fee of one or more ap- prentices to creditable tradesmen of the city of Glasgow, of the nomination and appointment of the minister and elders, or the major part of them," — blood relatives to be preferred. The tes- tamentary trustee on the estate of James Hamilton became bankrupt, and only a small part of the sum bequeathed was re- covered by the kirk-session. The annual interest is applied as the deed directs. BOTHWELL. 803 Poor and Parochial Funds, — The poor are supplied from an as- sessment fixed by the heritors and church-session, who meet once in six months, according to the statute, examine the poor's roll, and appoint such a sum to be levied for the ensuing half-year as the state of the poor requires. One-half is paid by the heritors, liferenters, and feuars, and the other half by householders and tenants, according to their several circumstances. The sums col- lected at the different periods, when a census of the population was taken, and the proportional increase of the inhabitants at these several periods, will be seen below. Years. Souls. Increase. Poor's Stent. 1755, . 1561 - - L 42 6 9 1791, . 2707 - 1146 - 73 18 8 1801, - 3017 . 310 - 181 6 11 1811, - 3745 - 728 - 178 8 11 1821, . 4844 - 09 9 - 331 10 1831, . 5545 . 701 . 319 1836, . 6581 - 1036 - 300 11 4 The following sums were paid to the poor in the several dis- tricts of the parish, from Candlemas to Lammas 1835: Old Men. Old Women. Widows. Children. Total. Uddingstone, 3 L. 2 5 L. 1 10 L. L.2 10 L. 6 5 Bothwell, 14 8 6 10 5 10 6 3 10 6 23 10 6 Orbiston, 25 600 15 20 9 17 6 290 3886 Woodhall, 33 12 00 12 00 14 26 400 42 26 ^^'SSS*^ |7 100 700 2 15 2 00 12 15 Lauchope, 5 100 3 00 00 100 6oO S^aton \^^ 8 10 13 9 10 31 L.38 15 0L.58 2 L.42 15 6 L.15 19 6L.160 1 6 It appears from the above table that there are only three pau- pers in Uddingstone quarter, which contains a population of 644. The number is small compared with the other districts of the pa- rish, and this may be ascribed to various causes. There are few public-houses in Uddingstone, which may justly be considered the nurseries of pauperism and demoralization. The inhabitants still cherish that reluctance to accept of public charity which long characterized the humblest classes in Scotland. And it may be added that, from the vicinity of Uddingstone to Bothwell Castle, many of the villagers are employed by Lord Douglas to work in the garden and pleasure-grounds, or as farm-servants, and agri- cultural labourers, which, if they behave themselves soberly and honestly, secures to them a comfortable subsistence and indepen- dence of the bounty of others for life. Should they be laid on a sick bed, their wages are not on that account withheld, and, though disabled for work by the infirmities of old age, their weekly allow- 804 LANARKSHIRE. ance, in whole or in part, is continued to the last. No servant of the family, male or female, and none that could consider them- selves as permanently engaged in any department of house or field labour, have ever been known under the character of parish paupers. The fact deserves to be recorded, and it is easy to conceive the advantages which would result to society were the example uni- versally imitated. The collections at the church-door lie in the hands of the kirk- session to meet casualties that may occur between the half-yearly meetings, and the remainder is paid over to the clerk at these meetings for the maintenance of the regular poor. Owing to the assessment, the collections are not large. They were in 183d-1834| L.42, 16s. 4d.; 1834-1835, L.45, Os. 4d.; 1835-1836, L.42, 15s. /nni, ^c. — ^There are 37 persons in the parish licensed to sell tea and tobacco ; 50 to sell ale and spirits ; of whom 8 sell wine. The ale-houses have the most unhappy effects on the condition and the morals of the people, and are occasionally the scenes of riot and Sabbath desecration in the neighbourhood of the collieries and public works. Fuel. — Coal abounds in the parish, and is procured at a mode- rate price. Miscellaneous Observations. Great changes have taken place in this parish since the last Statistical Account was published. The population b more than doubled. The rental of the surface has increased in an equal pro- portion, and of the minerals in a much higher ratio. At the for- mer period, the land '^ was not let by the acre, but at the slump of the farm, and the accumulated value estimated." It is now well enclosed, accurately measured, and the farms are let according to their estimated value per acre. At the former period, there were only 50 colliers in the parish ; there are now 263, and the number is daily increasing. The income from mines and iron-works was then a mere trifle, it is now supposed to exceed L. 160,000 per annum. The railroads and the Monkland Canal have opened up the treasures of this district; and it would not be easy to prognosticate the advantages which may yet be derived from these improvements. - A great improvement has also taken place in the style of building, and the accommodation of the cottages and farm-houses which have lately been erected. Drawn up 1836. Revmd ilpril \ft4Q, UNITED PARISHES OF WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. PRBSBYTBRY OF BIOGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWBEDDALE. THE REV. CHARLES HOPE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. ^^mtf.— Chalmers in his Caledonia states the name of Wan- dell to have been anciently ^' Quendal or Gwendall," signifying in the British language the white meadow. The parish was also designated in former times ^* the parochin of Hartside alias Wandle/' the for- mer being the name by which a particular district of it towards the northern extremity is still known. The same authority also tells us that the name Lammingtoune, now familiarly abbreviated into Lamington, was conferred upon the northern division of this united parish, from a Fleming called Lambinus^ one of ,three brothers who came over from Flanders, and settled in Scotland in the reign of David I., and upon whom that monarch con- ferred the territory which has since, under various modifications, borne the designation of Lambinstoun, Lambingtoun, and Lam- mingtoune. In a charter by David II. to Sir William Baillie in 1367, the lauds are designated as those of ^^ Lambinstoun." Others contend that Lamington owes its name to one ^^ Lambert," and hence was occasionally written, ^^ Lambertstoun." Chalmers adds that Lambinus had two brothers, Wiscius and Robert, who gave their names to the two neighbouring parishes, Wistoun and Robertoun. Extent and Boundaries, — WarideU^ reckoning from the southern extremity, where it is bounded by Crawford, extends in a north- easterly direction to the parish kirk, a distance of about 6 miles. It is bounded on the south-west and west by the river Clyde, which separates it from Crawfordjohn and Robertoun, and on the south- east and north by Lammingtoune, with which it has long been united. It contains 6099 imperial acres. Lammivgtoune again, proceeding from the same point, viz. the church, where 'Wandell terminates, stretches in a north-easterly line along the river, which LANARK. 3 F 806 LANARKSHIRE. here flows in that direction, to a point on the fiirm of Whitehill, a distance of 3 miles. It is connected on the south and sooth- west with Wandell; bounded by Culteron the east, and separated from the lower end of Robertoun, and the upper extremity of Symington on the west and north, by the ** flowing Clyde. ** It contains of imperial acres, 5180, being less than Wandell by about a 6flh part of itself. According to Forrest's map, the united parish contains 21.75 square miles, and there are only 13 parishes of great- er extent in the whole county of Lanark. It somewhat resembles an irregular triangle, having its longest and western side washed by the noble river which gives its name to the district It extends where broadest from the junction of Hartside frum, with the Clyde, to Hatherstane Law and Wingill Bank, two mountam- ous summits close together on the boundaries of Culter and Crawford to the south-east, a distance of between 3 and 4 miles; narrowing gradually both towards north-east and south-west. Aspect — The general character of this parish, like the district in which it lies, is hilly, or perhaps it may be called mountaimmi. There is, however, a tolerable stretch of holm or level ground, probably not less than 400 acres in extent, chiefly in the north- eastern comer of Lammingtoune, between the Clyde on the west and the rising and hilly grounds to the east and south-east There is also an extensive field of fertile holm land on the farms of Hillhouse, Hartside, Woodend, Wandellmill and Lit- tlegill, all in Wandell. These holm lands, however, and es- pecially in Lammingtoune, are not a tame dead level, but are beautifully diversified with rising knolls of considerable height and base, all under cultivation, and many of them crowned or gracefully fringed with aged trees of picturesque outline and of goodly size. These low level grounds extend, at their greatest breadth, to not more than three-quarters of a mile, till they join the ascending fields that connect them with the hills. A little way above Braehead, the hill of Devonshaw almost refreshes its base in the clear waters of the Clyde ; and along the sloping sides of most hills in the parish, there are still very visible proofs that in former and distant times they had been pretty generally laid under contribution for supply of " the stafl^of life. " The general aspect of the hills is agreeable ; they are smooth and dry, without much heather, and afford easy footing and excellent pasture for sheep* They ai'e often finely diversified in their swelling sides, and undu- lating summits; presenting one while a sweeping curvature of out- WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 807 • line, and at another point of view a more peaked and conical form ; with here and there a gray rock peering above the grassy turf. Many of the hills in the parish are of considerable height, and from their summits afford beautiful and extensive views. Hill- house in Wandell, a short way from the kirk, and Lammingtoune hill to the east of the village, rise about 500 or 600 feet above the level ground around the manse ; and when we consider that these are not the highest hills in the parish, that Tinto on the opposite side of the river, and not more than a mile and a half in a straight line north-west from the village of Lammingr toune, is 2806 feet abo^e the level of the sea, we may safely state the highest point in the parish to be not less than 1400 feet above the tide at Greenock. SoU. — The soil, as may be supposed, varies considerably in dif- ferent parts. In the holms or low grounds by the river, where the Clyde in the lapse of successive generations has evidently varied greatly in its coursey Jreakiuff from one conGning boundary to an-^ other, as if in derision of > the power and comforts of man, the prevailing soil is a deep rich loam or clay, and in some instan- ces where the deposition has been more scanty, it is sharp, light, and gravelly. The remainder of the cultivated lands, partly inter- spersed as knolls amid the holms, and partly rising in gradual as- cent to the bases of the hills, and of sufficient elevation to be at all times safe from the sudden swellings of the Clyde, are gene- rally of a free, rather light, but yet kindly soil ; and the same re- mark holds good of the greater proportion of those breaks of land upon the hill sides that have been subjected to the operations of the plough. The crofts about the village of Lammingtoune, con- sisting of about 70 acres, are considered the best land in the pa- rish, although from the circumstance of their being held by so many small tenants, they cannot well be permitted to rest for any length of time in pasture. The subsoil of the arable land, with the exception of the very lowest of the holm lands, is generally of a porous gravelly nature, and hence frequent showers in the end of spring and beginning of summer are essential to insure any thing like heavy crops. Peat moss occurs among the hills, but not to so great an extent, as in many of the surrounding parishes. There are also a few boffs^ or spouty marshy spots, occurring in the sande localities, but none of a description not to be pasturable by the woolly race. Climate and Seasons. — In a district of such general altitudes 808 LANARKSHIRE. being within twelve miles of the town of Leadbills, the highest in- habited spot in the kingdom, with the single exception of its neigh- bour Wanlockhead, — and surrounded on all sides, except the north, by immense ranges of *^ hills on hills in close succesnon,'^ our climate may be expected to be rather damp. We have ac- cordingly towards the end of autumn, as also frequently b the months of February and March, successive weeks of rain, so that the month of April is sometimes pretty far advanced before the ground is in a fit state to receive the seed, and hence a late harvest is almost the invariable consequence. Notwithstanding of these re- marks, I am not sure that we have more rain in this quarter, than falls in the eastern part of Galloway, and certainly we have not somodi as falls on the west coast of that province, and in many parte of Ayr- shire. I suspect however, we have more, and severer froet, as also more snow, than our neighbours to the south and west. In the winter and -spring of 1837-8, the ground was covered pret^ deeply with snow for ten weeks ! The thermometer in the open air at a north- west window of the manse, was as low one morning about day-light at 8 o'clock, as 4 degrees above zero, and it no doubt had been lower during the night. Our summers, however, are sometimes both dry and very warm, so that the pasture is quite burnt up by tbe middle of June. The thermometer is often about 76 ; and in that season, remarkable for heat and drought, 1826, when we had scarce- ly a shower from February to September, it was for months geDe- rally about 80°, and sometimes 84% and 86° in the shade ; and one day in removing it into the full sun, it rose rapidly to 120 de- grees. Indeed, from being so encircled by hills, our harvest in the vale of the Clyde is much earlier than in some districts greatly lower, but not so well sheltered. We are also less sub- jected to the evils of lingering frosts in the beginning of sum- mer, or early hoar frost in autumn, than many of our neighbours) particularly about Robertoun, and Biggarand Skirling. There is ^fair at Skirling in the middle of June, and another in September or October, about which seasons it has long been remarked that potatoes, and even oats, are frequently injured by frost The following register, kept by myself, of the farming operations upon my glebe, will furnish a pretty correct idea of the climate of Wandell and Lammingtoune : * The situation of the parish church is only 120 feet lower than tbe summit o^ Arthur's seat. WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 809 Began to Began to Began to Finished Took sow. cut hay. reap. reaping. Got all in field potat. 0i^0mm0mmm0m June «,. July 7. July 1. August 90. August 20. August 26 Sept. 4. Sept. 13. Aui(ust29. Sept. 15. Sept. 6. «WtM*«IM^«WtfW 0mm0*0i0m0mmtm ^^«MMWttfMM» m^0mm0i0*0immmm August 12. August 31. August 24. Sept. 14. August 30. Sept. 10. August 18. August 28. August 24. Sept. 17. Sept. 16. Oct. 27. Sept. 2. Sept. 18. August 12. Oct. 4. Sept 13. Sept. 21. Sept. 17. Sept. 6. August 12. Oct. 4. Sept. 16. Sept. 25. Oct. la Sept. 6. Sept. 22. Sept. 20. Sept. 15. Sept. 25. Nov. 8. Sept. 25. Oct. la Oct 1. Oct 17 to 19* Oct a Oct 15. Oct 16. Sept 26. Oct. 15. Oct 2. Sept. 29. Oct. 20. Oct. 24. Oct 10. 0m<0mm* *mmm0m^mmmmmm0*0 mmm^^m^mmtmmmmm 1824, 1825, 1827, April 14. 1828, April 1. 1830, March 26. 1831, March 26. June 25. 1832, April 5. June 26. 1833, March 25. July 5. 1884» March 20. 1835, March 2a July 2. 1836, April 15. July 4. 1887, April 12. 1838, April 12. 1839, April 6. 1840, March 20. The earliest period at which I ever planted early potatoes in my garden was the 17th of March 18349 and the latest at which I ever put into the ground a first crop of the same kind, was the 19th of April 1836. The earliest time I ever had new potatoes of my own raising was on the 7th July 1834 ; and the latest period be- fore the same root was fit for using, was the 1st of August 1836 ; a season when every article of garden produce was extremely late in this part of the country. The present spring, 1840, is the driest and warmest that I remember ever to have seen, not except* iog 1826, which as yet it greatly resembles. Since the 1 5th of February, we have had only a very few showers. The thermome- ter has been steadily and unusually high, and consequently vege- tation is nearly a month more advanced than usual. Fruit trees, such as apples, pears, plums, and , cherries, have blossomed most luxuriantly in the garden of the manse, and many of them are beginning to shed very rapidly their honours in the dust I On one or two trees, both plums and apples, and Jargonelle pears, are beginning fairly to set in the fruit. Yesterday, May 4th 1840, the thermometer in the shade and open air was nearly 78®, at two o'clock p. m. The lilac and laburnum are beginning to open and to shew their beautiful tints. Gean trees and hawk- berry or bird-cherry, are in full blow around the manse, and the old planes behind it have been in leaf for a week past. Hydrography^ S^c, — There are many fine springs in this parish. The most celebrated is that dedicated to St Ninian, on the left bank of Lammingtoune burn, a little above the village. From this fountain the villagers used formerly to draw water, but of late there have been no fewer than five wells sunk by various in- 810 LANARKSHIRE. habitants of the town of Lammingtoune, some of them supplied with pumps, and all affording excellent water. Both at the manse and school-house, this accommodation has been supplied by the heritors. Rivers and Bums. — The river Clyde sweeps along the whole extent of these parishes on the west, keeping a direction from south-west to north-east ; and from its rise in the mountaiDoos range on the east of Crawford, near Tweedshaws in the parish of Tweedsmuir, to where it passes the manse of this parish, it has a run of at least seventeen miles. Like all rivers in mountainoiis districts, it is liable to sudden spates and overflowings of the low grounds on its margin. One of these spcUes occurred in the month of January 1830, which was attended with a lamentable loss of human life in this very locality ; — two young men, with two ser- vant girls, to whom they were said to have been betrothed, having perished in a rash attempt to cross the river in a dark and stormy night, at the ford near the old castle of Lammingtoune. The ac- cident created a great sensation in the neighbourhood, and, as many individuals bad previously lost their lives in attempting to cross the Clyde in this vicinity, the public attention was roused to the ne- cessity of having some safe mode of communication established be- tween the opposite sides of the river, there being none from Clyde's Bridge on the south, to Wolfclyde on the north, adistance of about nine miles. Accordingly, an elegant and substantial bridge of two arches, each 53 feet in span, of a hard liver-coloured stone from Robertoun, and costing upwards of L.900, was in 1836 thrown across the Clyde between that parish and Wandell, a little to the south of the 34th mile-stone from Edinburgh, on the road leading from the metropolis through this parish, to Abington and Crawford, on the Dumfries road, either by Moffat or Thornhill. There is a deep pool in the Clyde, a short way below the old castle, where a man of the name of Johnstone perished long ago, and which still goes by the name of ** Johnstone's Pool." There are several tributary streams in the parish, all descend- ing from the hills on the south-east, and emptying themselves into the Clyde on the west. Some of them, indeed, are mere rivulets, others are of such size as to be dignified with the name o( burns. Of these, Hackwood, Wandell, Hartside, and LammiDg- toune burns, are the largest. All these streams cross the high road, and it was only about eighteen years ago, that the three last men- tioned had atcVves ox pencZs thrown over them ! WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 811 Mineraloffi/.^^lieitheT coal, lime, nor freestone is to be found in this. parish. The first is brought from tligside in Douglas, or from Ponfeigh in Carmichael. Lime of good quality is to be had at Newton of Wistoun, about four miles distant, on the property of Mr Baillie of Lammingtoune. Freestone is got from Stoiehill in Carmichael, orfrom Carnwath ; and slates can only be had either at Stobo in Tweeddale, or at Glenochar in Crawfordmuir, fifteen miles distant. Porphyry prevails throughout Lammingtoune, and also on the farm of Hillhouse, in Wandell. The transition, however, . from porphyry to greywacke, takes place at Hartside burn, a mile to the south of the manse ; and the latter runs throughout the re- mainder of Wandell. Scots pebbles are frequently found in the brows and channel of the Clyde ; and some fine large specimens, agates, I believe, were dug out of a well at Townfoot, near the manse, last autumn ; some of those are very beautiful, and would make fine seals. Lead was once attempted to be wrought on the hill of Snickertknees^ on the farm of Birnock in Wandell, but the operation was never, I believe, attended with much suc- cess. Zoology. — Deer are said to have existed in abundance in this pa- rish, in former times. Hence the name of Hartside^ still applied to .a portion of what is now denominated Wandell. A stray animal of this species was said to have been seen upon the hills of Lam- mingtoune, About fifteen years ago. Hares are plentiful, and black*game, grouse, and partridges are tolerably abundant. Otters are said to have abounded at one time, and may be met with oc- casionally still. Hence the name of a farm in Lammingtoune, Otterbuma. Foumarts and weasels, and hedgehogs, and bats, are often seen. Foxes may occasionally have been seen, but they find no cover in the parish. Adders, if they exist here at all, are not ^numerous. Herons, coots, snipes, and wild-ducks, frequent the low-grounds and bed of the river. Crows are plentiful, and though there is no rookery within the parish, they find abundant shelter in the woods of Bagbie on the opposite side of the river, in Robertoun. The magpie and hawk are also here, but they are sought out and destroyed, as being hurtful to game, by eating the eggs and car- rying off the young. Squirrels are seen in the Culter planta- tions, on the eastern boundary of Lammingtoune. Rats are nu- merous, chiefly the large Muscovy kind, which have in a great measure, however, extirpated the native and smaller Scots rat. Birds of all kinds are numerous. A goatsucker and a kings- 812 LANARKSHTRR. fisher were shot in the parish last summer ; and all the follow- ing birds have been seen in the parish, and most of them asti- ally frequent the shrubbery and young trees about the manse. These are the lapwing, the mavisy (for I prefer the Scottish name for the Scottish philomel,) the missel- thrush, linnets of all sorts, the fieldfare, chaffinch, bullfinch, goldfinch, common wren, the redbreast, titmouse, lark, house and hedgesparrow, the blackbird, the land-rail or corn-craik, which last, though rarely seen, is yet a constant yearly visitant A few starlings have also been occasion- ally seen, and some were captured for pets. Nor must I omit to mention in the last place, that ** sweet messenger of spring,** the cuckoo, which usually pays us his annual and truly welcome visit about the last week of April, or the first in May. Trout of various kinds is found in the several bums already enu« merated; and the Clyde especially^ for several miles, both above and below Lammingtoune, is deservedly reckoned one of the very best rivers in the kingdom for angling, — the banks being open and free of wood, — the trout not only abundant, but a great proportion of them of that fine flesh-coloured kind known by the name of Lochinvar trout in the south, and oi Lochleten in the east, of Scot- land. Many of them are of a large size, weighing a pound or more ; and I have seen one that measured two feet in length,— but it was of the white or common species. 11. — Civil History. I have never met with any history of this parish, either printed or in manuscript, nor am laware that any such, ancient or mo- dern, is in existence. Probably some interesting particulars re- lating to it might be found inthe archives of the family at Bo- nington, as well as in those of the Applegirth and Douglas fami- lies. I have never heard of any particular map or plan of the parish, though I have little doubt that the heritors may be in possession of plans of their respective estates. Eminent Characters, — Of all the celebrated names connected with this parish, by far the first is that of Sir William Wallace. Robertson in his Ayrshire families, tells us that he married, about 1296, the heiress of Lammingtoune, Marion Braidfoot, and by her became possessed of that ancient barony ; and that the fruit of this union was an only daughter, who married William Baliol or Baillie of Hoprig and Penston, and thus gave rise to the Bailhes of Lammingtoune* (See Nesbit's Heraldry.) It is said by others agvviu, vWv V\\^ ?i^viVVv$\\ \\q\:o left no legitimate children. WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 813 Be this as it may, it is allowed by all, that he became possessed of the estate of Lammingtoune, and that, through relationship with him, it soon after came into the family of Baillie, — as appears by a charter of the lands of *' Lambinstoun," granted in favour of Sir William Baillie by King David IL of date 27th January 1387-6a Many highly respected names occur in the long list of this honourable race. The chief of the family seems generally to have enjoyed the favour of his sovereign, and, with but few exceptions, uniformly bore the honour of knighthood, which in those times carried along with it a much higher rank than it does at the present day. William Baillie of Provand, cousin to the then proprietor of the estate, was appointed to the beneGce oi Lammingtoune proper^ in 1557, and was the Grst incumbent of it after the Reformation. At that pe- riod, a certain proportion of the Lords of Council and Session were chosen from among the clergy; and in 1566, the minister of Lam- mingtoune was called to the Bench by the title of Lord Provand, and subsequently was raised to the presidency of the Supreme Court ; but, notwithstanding, continued to hold the cure of the parish till bis death in 1593. About the middle of the seventeenth century, the proprietor of the barony was also named Sir William Baillie. He was a true churchman, and an elder in the kirk-session of his own parish, whose meetings he very generally attended, and seems to have taken an active part in providing for the wants of the poor, and in the general business of the parish He frequently re- presented the presbytery of the bounds, as their ruling elder in the General Assembly. Being also a staunch monarchical man, he engaged in the Royal cause in the troublous times immediately preceding the martyrdom of the unfortunate Charles the First. For this praiseworthy act of a loyal subject, the kirk-session, either overawed by " the pressure from without" or in- fluenced by a time-serving sycophancy, at their sederunt of the ** 25th January 1649," thought fit in their wisdom to " discharge the Laird of Lammingtoun from being ane elder in the Session, for his accession to the late unlawful engagement, qll he make satis- faction ;" and at a subsequent meeting they chose another member of their body, " Archibald Baillie of Whitehill," as elder in room of Sir William to the presbytery of Biggar, by whom, for the same reason, he was in like manner returned as their ruling elder to the Greneral Assembly. The Rev. David Blinshall, ordained to this cure in 1708, UveA 814 LANAUKSHIRB. to upwards of a hundred years of age. The late Rev. Dr BIib- sball of Dundee, his son, was a native of Lammingtoune ; as was the late eminent Professor Jardine of Glasgow, a native of Hillbouse in Wandell, — and a large flat tombstone in the kirkyard marks the spot where his ancestors repose. The late incumbent, the Rev. Thomas Mitchell, was an accomplished scholar, and was a candidate for the Greek chair in the University of Edinburgh, at the time when the late excellent Professor Dalzell was a|y- pointed to it Mr Mitchell published a treatise upon the Atone- ment, in answer to the work upon that subject by the Rev. Dr M^Gill of Ayr. His eldest son, Dr John Mitchell, a native of the parish, is at present Senior Physician to the Royal Infirmary of Manchester, and esteemed a man eminent in bis profession. It may be added, that the young laird of Lammingtoune, Alex- ander Cochrane Baillie, Esq. just returned from his travels in Greece, and the east of Europe, has this spring published a volume of poems called " The Morea." Land-Burners, — There are, at the present day, only two land- owners connected wiih this parish, namely. Lord Douglas, the sole proprietor of Wandell ; and Alexander Cochrane Wishart Baillie, Esq. sole proprietor of Lammingtoune. The former old parish and barony was held, in the time of King Alexander II., by one styled " William de Hertisheved" (since Hartside), sheriff of Lanark in 1225, (see Chart. Glasg.), and subsequently in the reign of David II. by " William de Gardin or Jardin," an- cestor of the Jardines of Applegirth in Annandale, in whose fa- mily it continued till the time of Charles the First, when it was acquired by William, Marquis of Douglas, who conferred it upon his son Archibald, Earl of Angus, created in 1651, Earl of Or- mond, Lord Bothwell, and Hartside, with remainder to the heir- male of his second marriage. The only son of that second mar- riage was Archibald, second Earl of Ormond, who, in 1661, was by a new patent created Earl of Forfar, Lord JVandale and Hartside, His son Archibald, second Earl of Forfar, being mortally wounded in the King's cause at the battle of Sheriffrauir, died on the 8th December 1715, without issue, when the barony of Wandell or Hartside reverted to the head of his house, Archi- bald, his cousin, created in 1703, Duke of Douglas, &c. ; anditis now held by his Grace's grand nephew. Lord Douglas. The farm of Littlegill in Wandell, belonging formerly to a family of the 3 WANDELl. AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 815 name of Bailzie or Baillie, was purchased by the late Lord Douglas only about sixty-five years ago. The barony of Lammingtoune, being by the deed of entail destined to heirs general, was in the course of the last century held by no fewer than three females, who, marrying into other wealthy families, gave occasion to the old castle or mansion-house being left deserted, and the estate being generally much neglected. The last of these heiresses of Lammingtoune was Elizabeth, eldest daughter of the late Lord President Dundas, who married Sir John Lockhart Ross of Balnagown. Lady Ross Baillie died in 1817, and was interred in the kirk of Lammingtoune, where, opposite to Che pulpit, a marble monument infixed in the wall, is inscribed to her memory, — a plain white panneled tablet and urn, upon a black ground. Her son. Sir Charles Ross, had a daughter, MatildU, by his first marriage, who married Sir Thomas Cochrane, R. N., and she dying, her eldest son, now Alexander Cochrane Baillie, Esq. succeeded, in right of his mother, to the estate of Lamming- toune, last held by his great-grandmother. Lady Ross Baillie, as above noticed. The chief of the Baillies, however, does not ap- pear to have all along been the sole proprietor of what, at the pre- sent day, is known as the lands and barony of Lammingtoune. On the contrary, a part of it was sold by Sir William Baillie, in 1611, to a person named John Donaldson. These lands were what is termed ^* Run-rig lands" lying up and down, and interspersed in ridges or small allotments over the estate. The late Lady Ross Baillie repurchased these lands, known as the Donaldson or Connal iandsj from Alexander Connal, great-grandson of John Donald- son, in 1772; since which, they have merged so completely into the general property, that all traces of their localities or original boundaries have been lost. Tradition, however, says, they con- sisted of ** every ninth step and tree, hill and dale of the lands • and barony of Lammingtoune." I have seen a precept of dare con* ttat of these lands to John Donaldson, of date 1684. Besides this Donaldson family, however, it appears, from the Ses« ^ sion Records, that there were, in the seventeenth century, other pro- prietors in Lammingtoune inferior to the " Laird." Thus we find, *• April 12th 1658," upon "ane supplication by Thomas Baillie of Touneheid of Lammingtoune, for leave to set up ane seat next unto the minister his seat," the session having " removed" the petitioner, ** and taken his desyre into yr consideratione," at last " allows and gives his request to the said Thomas Baillie, being ane heritourmiYi" 816 LANARKSHIRE. in the parosch." We find one of the elders, too, regularly tenned *< Wbitehill" upon the session roll, even when ** Lammingtottoe" himself was present, while all the other elders are entered in their own names in the minutes. And that this WhitehiU must hare been a person of some note, appears from the fact of his beii^ re- turned elder to the General Assembly, at the time when Sir WiU liam Baillie was discharged on account of his accession to some engagement in behalf of bis suffering Prince, Charles L And, again, at a meeting of heritors for the erection of a school, June 15, 1697, ** there were present of the heritors, the Laird of Lammingtoune, the Laird of Littlegill, the tutors of John Donald- son, portioner in Lammingtoune, as also the minister, who was clothed with a commission for Mr John Watson, por^tcmer in Lam- mingtoune," — and yet further, on this point, at a meeting of he- ritors for the poor, in 1699, the Laird of Lammingtoune himself appears with a commission from the same *' Mr John Watson," who, in the close of the same minute, is twice expressly designated as " Laird Watson." Parochial Registers, — The oldest parochial register at present known to be in existence, commences with ^* the first sessiooe holden be Mr John Crawfurd," bearing date at " Lammingtoune Kirk, 6th of February 1645." That there must, however, have been one of a prior date, is evident from the following extract from the minute of that sederunt ! " Ordered the sessione booh to be brought against the next day." It is much to be regretted that those sessione books here ordered, have been lost, and not less so that those which still exist are rendered almost useless from the careless way in which they have been preserved, — being not only tattered and*torn, but in many parts totally illegible from damp, and falling to pieces on being handled ever so delicately. From what is entire, however, it is evident that not only the volume mentioned, (which ends with October 16, 1 660, embracing nearly the whole of the incumbency of Mr John Crawford, who was ejected by the strong hand of arbitrary power in 1662,) but likewise the volume commencing about 1695 and ending 1709, as also the next, beginning 1715 and ending 1722, have all been carefully kept, and especially the one first mentioned. The next in succession commences in 1738 and ends 175*3; another then commences, and ends in 1768. The sixth begins at the induction of the late in- cumbent, the Rev. Thomas Mitchell, in September 1774, and ends with 1813. k great \)roportion of this volume is distinctlv written WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 817 out, and is yet in tolerable preservation. Part of the register of baptisms, however, is confused and ill-written, particularly between 1813 and 1821. In all these registers, the birth is seldom en- tered, merely the baptism ; and few marriages or deaths are recorded* A new register and session book was purchased soon after my induction, in which all births, marriages, deaths, and burials, in the united parish, are carefully entered. Antiquities. — In this respect the parish of Wandell and Lam- mingtoune is by no means uninteresting. In camps especially, it is most abundant. Three of these, quite adjoining one another, are very distinctly marked out on Whitehill, in the north-east ex- tremity of Lammingtoune, all of very considerable dimensions, the largest being 70 yards in length, by 40 in breadth, with a ditch 5 yards in width. These are supposed to have been of Roman construction. On the top of Starthope bill in Wandell, and near- ly opposite to the mansion-house of Hardington or Bagbie in Ro- bertoun, there is a ring of earth and stones about 20 yards in dia- meter, supposed from its form to be the remains of a British camp. Another of these military stations is to be met with at Hartside, in the form of an oblong 30 yards by 20, having a rampart on all sides. On the south, and west, and north, it is protected by a rather steep brink, and on the east by a deep ditch. This, from its square-like form, has been supposed to have been of Roman construction. A circular camp is next to be found on Devonshaw or Woodend hill, about the centre of Wandell, and opposite the village of Robertoun. This is said to contain more than three-fourths of a Scots acre of land, and has a rampart and ditch. It is supposed, like other circular ones, to have been of British origin. These camps are too nume- rous, however, to admit of being minutely described in a brief no- tice like this. There is one on Braehead, another pretty entire near the farm-house of Cauldchapel, said to be 60 yards in diame- ter, and a second on the south of the same dwelling-house. All these three are circular. Close to Cauldchapel, also, there is a tnoat or tumulus about 20 yards in diameter, and about 5 feet in height; and there was formerly a smaller one near to it; which, however, was demolished, when several human bones were cast out. But the most interesting and remarkable curiosity of the kind, per- haps, in the whole parish, is that on Arbory hill^ which rises about 600 feet in a sort of conical form, above the level of the Clyde, in the upper and most southerly point of Wandell. This hill has been fortified on the top ; and on ascending to it, the traveller first 818 LANARKSHIRE. comes to a broad ditch of about 3 yards, with a rampart At about 6 yards within this rampart, there is a second ditch of 2 yards or so in width, and within it a mound of about 10 feet in height. At the distance of probably 16 yards still &rtber up the hill, is found a ring or circle of stones, measuring, it is said, 9 yards in thickness, and 4 feet in height, and enclosing a space of ground in its natural state, of about 44 yards in diameter. This has been held by some to ha?e been a military station of the Britons ; while others are inclined to view it as an ancient Dniidi^ cal temple or place of worship. Wailing Street^ as it has been called, entered the parish near to the base of Arbory hill, and passed Cauldchapel and Wandell- mill, where it may still be traced ; but farther down than this, it cannot be followed with certainty. An urn was not very long ago, dug up by the plough near Cauldchapel, and several more are reported to have been discovered near Wandell-mill, at the time the present high road was made about seventy years ago. Sir William Wallace is reported to have once encamped on the heights above. Wandell-mill, where he entrapped and cut off a party of English. Ancient Buildings. — It is said there were formerly several touh ers or strong buildings in this parish, the scanty dilapidated ruios of which are now all that remain. Whether and where the Jardines ever had a residence in Wandell, is now a matter of the purest conjecture. Within the bounds of this ancient barooy) however, at the base of Devonshaw hill, to the west of the high- road, and nearly opposite to the snug little village of RobertouD, lies in a gracefiil curvature of the Clyde, a baylike nook of land of about 30 acres in extent, called the Bower Park, diversified with two or three rising knolls, having its border washed on all sides by the river, except on the south-east, where it is bounded by the public road running along by the foot of the Hartside hills, and in this way having altogether a sort of peninsular form. Upon one of these little eminences in the south-west corner of this little territory, and with its rocky base shelving into the Clyde, stand the ruins of the Bower of Wandell, Little of it, indeed, now remains, nor does it appear from its outlines ever to have been of any great extent, though probably it was built with some attention to security. King James V., when tired of the cares of the state and trammels of a court, is said to have pursued his favourite sport of deer stalk- ing, among the once woody hills and glens of Hartside. This WANIXBLL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 819 little demesne is truly a lovely spot even in its present naked and neglected state. Were it crowned vrith a tasteful cottage, its knolls clothed with the fragrant birch, the flowering hawthorn, and the clustering rowan, with a due proportion of more lasting trees, — were ltd watered borders fringed with the alder, the willow, and the po- plar, — and its remaining low and fertile spots laid out in well dispos- ed gardens and shrubberies, with here and there a grassy enclosure, — «it might soon be said of Wandell Bowery as was once said of Fas^ caUy by the distinguished tourist Pennant, — '^ this place is more like the favourite haunt oi faeries than the abode of mortals !" In Lammingtoune, there are at Whitehill the remains of some place of strength and consequence ; and in the wild but beauti- fully romantic glen of Keygill, near the head of that stream, and at the very base of a steep and lofty hill named Windgill bank^ stand the ruins of Windgate house. This house was built at a remote period by the laird of Lammingtoune, at a time when a feud subsisted between him and the laird of Symington. The lat- ter had erected a building on the side of Tinto, called Fatlipe Castle, which, being directly opposite, completely overlooked, by its elevated situation, the castle of Lammingtoune, the residence of his rival laird. It is recorded that he sent a taunting mes • sage to Lammififftouney in no very delicate terms, to the effect that his wife could not go out of doors but her motions might be observed from Fatlips ; which so incensed the chief of the Bail- lies, that *' he vowed that ere that day twelvemonth, he would have a house for himself and his family, where his wife's motions could neither be watched by Symington nor any one else, and where, on looking out, he should be able to call everything that he saw his own !" The result was, the building of a residence in Keygill glen, about four miles from the village, and in the very wildest and most remote outskirts of the estate of Lammingtoune. The chief residence of the laird, however, was, notwithstanding, still at the castle or tower of Lammingtoune. It is somewhere about a hundred years since it was regularly occupied by the fa- mily. I have been told by some old persons in the parish, about the time when I came here, that they recollected having seen a roasting-jack and some other piece of furniture, — I think a large spinning wheels in the kitchen of the old castle, and that a woman was employed to keep fires in it during winter, long after it had ceased to be the family residence. It is of unknown antiquity, though generally supposed to have been erected before the time of 620 LANARKSHIRE. Wallace, between 500 and 600 years ago ; and it might have stood as many years more, if we may only judge by the extreme thickness and rock-like durability of the remaining walls. But what tiwu had spared, man barbarously destroyed ! It waf dismantled about sixty years since by orders of the factor upon the estate, the proprietor. Lady Ross Baillie, being totally ignorant of the contemplated work of demolition, until it had proceeiled too far to be remedied.* Some of the carved freestones may still be seen as lintels to the doors of such buildings, upon the farms in its neighbourhood ! A part of the west gable, with the arched window of the hip dining-room in it entire, and a part of the north side wall, of the original height, and also a portion of the wall opposite, still re- main, to brave ** the pelting fury and pitiless storms" of a variable and tempestuous climate. It is said, whether truly or not I can- not tell, that as, by the deed of entail, the proprietor of the estate must assume the sirname and bear the arms of Baillie, so he b also bound by the same deed to keep up, in state and repair, the msD- sion house or place of Lammingtoune, as anciently designated. Be this as it may, we of the parish do most earnestly hope to see the day when the present young proprietor of this estate, with a Scottish spirit, and pride of ancestry, will restore the long dormaot honours of that ancient family, which his cultivated mind and po- lished manners so well fit him to represent, — by soon either re- building the castle itself, or erecting upon one or other of the many charming situations which Lammingtoune affords, a mansion worthy of the splendid property to which a kind Providence has called him. I may add, that few properties are more capable of improvement; and certainly no parish in the kingdom has greater cause to deplore the accumulated evils which spring from the total want of resident land-owners. Historical Notices. — Part of the Highlanders who took up arms in 1715, in behalf of the unfortunate Prince James Stuart, amounting to about 400, taking fright on approaching the borders of England, and refusing to follow their commander, the Earl of Winton, on his entrance into that kingdom, — resolved on returnlDg • When the accounts of this demolition reached Bonington, near Lanark, ber ladyship, as might well have been anticipated, was most indignant at the presuiop* tuous but well-meant doings of her servant, and instantly despatched a mes&engerto Lammingtoune to stop procedure ; but alas ! it was too late, — the roof was off, and part of the building l.lown up by gunpowder! The worthy factor thought it would be most profitable to his employer, to make a quarry of it, out of which to erect rfflWf' and byres f WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 821 » directly intu their own country ; and having in company reached Moffat, they separated about Errickstane, into two parties of near- ly equal numbers; one division resolving to pursue their way through CrawFord-muir towards Douglas, while the remaining SOO took a more easterly course, and crossed the hills in the direction of Lammingtoune. Two countrymen of Annandale observing their movements, and conjecturing whither they were bound, hastened it is said by night to Lammingtoune, and appriz- ed the people of their approach. *^ Early next morning, the 2d of November, the lairds of Lammingtoune, Nisbet, Glespine, Moss- castle ; a Bailie Vallance from Biggar, a Mr Mitchell, factor to the laird of Hartree ; a Mr Baillie, in Moat, and other gentle- men, with a great multitude of the surrounding parishes, as well as the men of Lammingtoune, forthwith assembled, both horse and foot, all of them armed as well as the hurry of the moment would permit." It is said they found the poor Highlanders in dif- ferent parties, among the hills above Lammingtoune village; andthat, had the latter only made a determined resistance, the greater part of the Clvdesdale men would soon have fled, as ^^ the hands of many of them were shaking with fear ;" but the poor strangersbe- ing worn out with cold, hunger, and fatigue, were soon induced to surrender, and being collected to the number, as already stated, of about 200, they were driven before the country people, (who were armed with every sort of rude implement, and had now, when all danger was past, recovered a wonderful degree of courage,) afid were at last safely cooped up for a day and night in the pa- rish kirk, and next day marched off to Lanark. III.-^ Population. The population in 1755 wai 599 in 1792 417 By the Government census in 1801 375 1811 365 1821 359 1831 382, males 1 79, females 203. The following table exhibits a correct list of the population of the united parish in April 1840 : Number of persons under 15 years of age, 131 from 15 to 30 ... 66 30 to 50 . 78 Number of persons firom 50 to 70 • 38 above 70 ... • 18 Yearly average of births in the parish for the last 7 years, 8 illegitimate children for last 10 years, 1 deaths, ..... 4- marriages, . • H burials, . . . • «>f LANARK. 3g 822 LANARKSHIRE. Number of bacbeloni aod widoweri aboTe 50 yeau of age, 4 women above 45 years, ... 22 lame in the parkh, there la 1 female. Present population of WandeU* males, 49 fbmalea, 56 ^106-4amilie^ 17 Lammingtoone village, make, 52 females, 75 ^^127 ftimiKffs, 96 Country, males, 51 females, 48 — 9»».fcmi1iHb 16 Total, 881 69 Average number of children in each femily, 5 RentaL — Wandell is valued in the cess books at L. 1300 Scots, real rental, L. 1396 Sterling; Lammingtoune is valued id the same at L. 1300 Scots, real rental, L. 1843, 10s. It is curious to note the fluctuations of the value of landed property at successive periods. For instance, the rental of Lammingtoune estate in 1656 iras L. 4000 Scots, or L. 333 Sterling. In 1775, it was L. 448^ 5s. 2d. In 1792, Mr Mitchell states it at between L. 700 and 800, and in 1824, the then factor, Mr Stobie, stated it to me^ on raising my process of augmentation, at L. 2250. There are two uninhabited houses in Wandell, and the same number in Lammingtoune, besides the new inn not quite completed. There are in the parish, 1 blacksmith, 1 tailor, whose wages per day, when he goes out to work in families, are Is. 4d. besides vic- tuals ; 3 shoemakers, 4 weavers, 2 wrights. There are ti^-o shops in the village, where " tea, sugar, tobacco and snuflF" are sold, wilh a variety of other small groceries ; and loaf bread is retailed iu tlicni, from the bakers in Biggar. There has long been an inOf or rather puhlic-house in the village, at which carriers frequently put up ; and, though contrary to act of Parliament, the keeper of the toll-bar at Hartside, a short distance to the south of the inn, has always a license to sell whisky and ale. There are now no corn- mills in the parish, so that it lies under the disadvantage of having to send all grain either to Culter or Robertoun, three miles distant. Character of the People, — The people, generally speaking, are healthy and robust, of good size and of active habits ; and not pe- culiarly subject to any particular ailment or disease, if we except perhaps rheumatism, here commonly called the pains. Tbey arc, on the whole, cleanly, orderly in their household economy, sober, temperate, peaceable, industrious, and neighbourly and obliof- ing to one another. They are much less given to intemperance WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 823 BOW than formerly; and withal, I must call diem an honest people ; for a petty theft is scarcely ever heard of in the parish. ^macseiveii/i;.— LammingtouDe, so long as it enjoyed a resident proprietor, was famous for its raees^ which are e?en celebrated in ancient ballad. They were patronised by the ** Laird, " took place in the level holms near the Castle, and are said to have been attend- ed by the first gentry in the country. Cock^Jighting also was long kept up here.* But though lujrse-racmg and codi-fighting have long disappeared, the customs and amusements common to the country people of Scotland are regularly kept up by the inha* bitants of these ancient parishes. Curling is the chief amusement in a frosty winter ; and a striking peculiarity to this and many of the neighbouring parishes is, thatyima&s have their bontpiel or con- test at curling as well as the males. The wives are matched against the unmarried women, and each party has a man in at- tendance to lend an arm to such as may be afraid of slipping on the ice at the time of delivering the curling-stone ! It is very amusing sometimes to witness the scientific skill and prowess displayed by these female emnbatants. In the spring and summer evenings, the young men of the village frequently assemble on the old school* green to try their skill at the exhilarating game of ihromng quoits; and a handsome silver medal (presented to the parish by Dugald Campbell, Esq.) is annually played for. The curlers have also a silver medal, purchased by subscription, and played for in like manner.-f- The great proportion of the inhabitants in the country district of the parish are exemplary in their attendance on religious ordi- nances, as are also many of the families about the village ; al* Chongfa, I am sorry to have occasion to add, there are a few be* longing to the latter, who are shamefully negligent of that ex- press command of our holy religion, ^* never to neglect the assem- * I haTe in my possession an old manuscript poem, called *' LAromingtounc Cock* fight,^ written in 1701, '* be John Welsh, maker and composer of the same.'* It has littla merit, and is somewhat in the style of Colville^s Scots Hudibras. t At all these games the utmost decorum and good fellowship are strictly observed, andluiy thing like quarrelling or angry disputes is seldom, if ever, heard of. Matters were less decorously carried on in former times, as will appear from the following mi. nute of the kirk- session of28th January 1S56 : ** The sessione considering ane super- aCkaous and abominable custome yt hes continued still in this paroche. That men and women uses promiscuously to play at the foot. ball upon Fasting's even ; and also consi- dering what erill and sadde consequences hes foUowed y** upon, viz. undeannesse, 4niokennea, and fighting, they doe unanimously discharge and inhibite thes^ old su- perstitious and abominable practise. And hereby macks and ordoincs, that whatso- ever peraone or persones shall contravein this present acte, they shall be censured with tb« censure of the kirk. And the minister be desyred to publish y** present acte out of pulpitt y* next Lord's day, that none pretendc ignorance.*' 824 LANARK.SHIRE* bling of ourselves ti^ther." There is one very striking circum* stance whicli I cannot pass by without here noticing, and it is not pe- cuhar to this parish, but common to the whole district ; namelvi the extreme paucity of young persons, below the age of puberty, who are to be seen on Sabbath in any place of public worship. The excuse that I have received for this from the lower classes having families is, that they '^ cannot afford to give their children two suits of clothes at once^ and are ashamed to send or take them to the kirk in rags." This is but a very lame apol<^ for any Christian parent to offer. Poaching of game has of late received a complete check, by the vigilance of a resident game-keeper. River poachinff, however, is carried on to a great extent, chiefly by people coming from a distance, with the double rod, &c IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The tenants of this parish are an industrious class of men ; many of them particularly so. The rotation ge- nerally observed in cropping, is, first oats, then potatoes or tur- nips, then bear or barley along with r\'e-grass and clover, for a crop of hay in the succeeding year. Both red and^lrUte clover seed are sown ; a larger proportion of the latter is used when tbe ground is intended to be laid down in permanent p<'isture. ITiere is no undivided common in either Wandell or Lammingtoune. Wood. — The only plantation occupies about a rood of ground behind Causeway HousCy on the side of the old Roman way, or Wat- tling Street, about the middle of Wandell ; — this was planted with larches about twenty-five years Jigo. Indeed, as to wood of any de- scription, the whole of this fine old barony is naked in the extreme, although a great proportion of it might be planted with immense advantage. So satisfied of this are its intelligent tenantry, that all of them have told me that, for sake of mere shelter, they would gladly give up land for planting without asking damages, provided only the Noble proprietor, Lord Douglas, would put in the young trees and protect them by suitable fences. The reader may have some faint idea how much this improvement is wanted, when it is mentioned, that in what was once a distinct parish, and ex- tends to no less than 11 \ square miles, there are only to be met with in all 61 trees 1 These are chiefly at Ilillhouse, Hartside, and Woodend, marking out in some instances the spot where, in former generations, a farm- steading has been. Few of these trees are pro\vaW\ ^v^v\v\CTev U\au a century, and some from their size WANDELI: AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 825 cannot be less than fifty years older ; few as ^they are, they still show how well both soil and climate are suited for the rearing of valuable timber. At Woodend there is a fine ash, measuring 10 feet 1 inch round the stem ; and another of still greater height and beauty, that measures 12 feet in circumference. Close by these, there is a noble plane tree 8 feet round ; and another of at least equal girth near Hillhouse. Naked as Wandell thus is at present, it is said by tradition, ihat in ancient times a forest or wood extended all along the western face of the hills from nearly opposite the Kirk to the south end of Devonshaw bill at Woodend burn, a distance of two miles and a-half ; and hence the appropriate name Woodend was given to that farm. The woods of Hartside are said to have been for* merly the favourite haunt of the deer. In Lammingtoune, likewise^ there are no plantations. Such, however, might with great advantage be scattered up and down ID belts and clumps, to the extent of 300 or 400 acres. And were the species of plants only judiciously selected, such as ash, plane, elm, and others that have proved themselves suited to the soil aiH^ climate, there can be no doubt, upon a fair calcula- tion of human life, that a young man of twenty-one, on coming to his estate, might find planting a remunerating speculation in it- self, even laying beauty and shelter altogether out of the question. With this passing remark, however, I am yet happy to say, that the old parish and barony of Lammingtoune contains many noble trees, of, I should suppose, from 120 to 150 years old. These are chiefly to be found in hedgerows, round square fields, or in small clusters near the present farm-houses, or close by where such buildings formerly stood. The greater proportion of these trees, however, is on the farm of Mains, near the old castle ; also on the fields to the west of the manse ; and in clumps, and drop- ping trees upon the crofts and round the gardens, of the vil- lagers ; and along the banks of Lammingtoune bum. The number of these trees (for they may be numbered) upon the whole of Lammingtoune is 711. They consist chiefly of ash and plane in nearly equal proportions, also a good many elms, a few beeches, and one very fine horse-chestnut A large number of these are of very considerable thickness ; many planes from 6 feet 9 inches to 8 feet 7, and one as much as 9 feet and a half in cir- cumference. The largest ash is 7 feet 7 inches; largest beech 8 feet 10 inches, and the horse-chestnut is 7 feet 1 inch round the \ 826 LANARKSHIBE. stenii. Upoo the glebe of LammiiigtoiiDe) and in a hedge eoniBov te it and the Lammingtotnie estate there are only nine trees, fife of which are on the glebe, two of them old hmwrly oaks of no great size, an ash 8 feet 2 inches, and an aged elm of great beauty 10 feet round the stems. Of young trees, I have on Waodell glebe about 80, and on that of Lammrngtoone aboiA 860, all plantedb 1820» I was told by an old man, who died about thirteen yeaiv ago, that in his jfotoi^ dajft he remembered seeing seYoral oldjhai ^retBf such as apples, pears^ and cherries, growing near the *< CMd Place/' the remains of the Laird of Lfammingtoune^s orchard, all of which have long since disappeared ! There was^ in my recollection^ a wdil-kept garden at Hillhouse, and there are still a good many frait trees in it. The garden belonging to the schoolmaster is well laid out, and supplied with a full complement of apple, pear, and plum trees, put in three years ago, and promising to do welL He has also a tasteful shrubbery and flower-plot in front o( his house, and the whole is enclosed with a thriving thorn-hedge. At Beatlaws and Main% there are likewise neat gardens, lately formed, and in both of which there are apple and other fruit trees. There are a few also at Otterbums and Loanhead. In the little gardens about the ▼illage, there have, for a length of time, been several apple trees, some of which yield a &ir crop in good seasons. All these gar* dens have goosc^rry and currant bushes of excellent sorts. When I came to the manse in August 1828^ there was neither gooseberry bush, nor fruit tree, nor a single flower nor shrub near it I In short, the old garden had been completely destroyed during a vacancy of five years ! A new garden wall was built in 1828^ enclosing about a Scots rood of ground ; the wall is 9 feet in height, and encloses the garden on all sides, except the north, where it is de- fended by the back wall of the kitchen and oflfees. The wall ha» a freestone cope, and the whole cost L. 74. On the inside of the wall there are thirty-nine fruit trees, and on the east and south aapect of the same, ontsidey there are twenty mora ; oomprphend* ing apples, pears, plums, and cherries, of various sorts ; all now arrived at full bearing. There are besides those on the wall, fifiy- eight standard trees, chiefly apples. These last do not bear so steadily as the wall trses, being of late much injured by the May fly or grub. Along the whole extent outside of the east and south aspects of the garden wall, there is a border for vegetables 9 feet in breadth, outside of which, again, and separated by a gravel walk, there is another border of about the same width planted with trees. WANDELL AND LAMMINOTOUNB. 827 evergreens, aod flowering shrubs in considerable variety. This shrubbery not only runs the whole length of these two sides of the garden outndey but is carried in a curve round the front of the manse, and sweeps along to the west boundary of the glebe at the entrance from the parish road ; and then takes a bend to the north- east as far as Lammingtoune fttcm, by which my little territory is here bounded, — the whole length measuring about 209 yards. I own I mention this favourite little border of thriving shrubs and trees with no little pride and satis&ction, when I think, especially, of the sad, and desolate, and naked aspect^ that everything wore about the place only fourteen years since ; and that how, I can look out in a lovely summer morning upon the aromatic poplar, the sweet-scented birch, the bird-cherry, the mountain ash, the flaunting snow-white gean, the fragrant lilac, the graceful labur- num, with its thousand grape-like bunches of gaudy blossom, the cedar and the juniper of pyramidal form, the laurel and the bay* tree with their lively, verdant, and glittering leaves, all coniming- ling in sweet confusion to perfume the breath of heaven. While the iout'-enBemMe is enlivened by the sharp whistle of the yellow- beaked blackbird, or the mellower music of the Scottish nightin- gale 1 A prodigious improvement, in the way of gardens and shrubberies, has indeed taken place about all the manses in the presbytery of Biggar, within these twelve or fourteen years. Be- fore that time, the most of them in these respects were slovenly in the extreme, but now they may well cope with those of any pres- bytery in the kingdom. Evergreens received a severe check in this district, during the winter of 1836-7, but this they did also even in the neighbourhood of London, as I had an opportunity of ob- serving in the following July. The more delicate do not thrive here, such as the sweet-bay, the laurustinus, and the arbutus. Hollies, of different kinds, stand our winters well, also the savine, the arbor vitse, and the yew, especially the Irish. Rhododendrons have never died with me, though they do not grow so luxuriantly as in lower situations, where the soil is of a mossy and damper nature. Of land in the united parishes, there are : — * In Wandell, Under regular cultWatton, about - . 964 acres imperial. That might be, or hai been cultivated, about - 6l)6 Totol of arable in the barony, - 1000 FasturCi partly improrable by draining or top dressing, • 5099 Total of arable and pasture land in the barony, G099 828 LANARKSHIRE. In Lammingtounc, Under reguliar cultivation, about - - 400 That might be, or has been cultivated, about, . 890 Total ofarable in the barony, 1280 Pasture partly improvable by draining, or top dressing, 9900 Total of arable and panture land in the barony, 5180 Wandell and Lammiogtouni^ Total of land in both under cultivation about, 764 Remaining arable land in both, - - 1516 Total of arable land in both baroniei*, 2280 Add the glebe, 6 Scott acres in WandeU* and 4 do. in Lsm- mingtoune, > - 12 Total of pasture land in boA baronies, . 8999 Total of Arable and pasture in the united parishes, 1 1291 Rent of LancL — Such farms a$ are wholly araUe are let at about L. 1, Us. per acre; the croft lands possessed by the villa- gers at L. 3; average rate of arable land, L. 1, 16s. 5d. ; average of hill and dale throughout the parish, ds. 9d. Produce. — The produce of the parish in stock and crop m\\ best appear from the following table. There is raised In Wandell. Of oau about 1 150 bolls, which at fiars prices for 1839 make L. 10S5 bear about 86 bolb at do. do. of L. I, 9b. 2id per boll, 99 14 1( potatoes about 630 bolb at 8s. per boll of 8 bushels, the price paid this year by me, . . . 25l2 hay, 12500 stones at 8d. per stone of 22 lbs. 416 13 4 turnips, 36 acres, at L. 5 per acre, . . 180 flai, about 112 lbs. at Is. per lb. . . 5 12 sheep, about 9800, at 6a. per head for keep, 1)40 cows about 81 , at L. 6 for grazing per head, . 486 other cattle, 44 at L. 2 10s. per head for keep per annum, 110 horses kept for work and riding 21, at L. 10 per head for grass and straw, •. 210 young horses, 2, at L. 4 per head per annum, . 8 swine, about 20, value of each at a year old (a£ier deducting inlay price, varying from 8s. to 15s.) about L. 3, 8b. ' , 68 Of wool, Cheviot, about 190 stones at L. 1 per stone average price, 130 bhickfaced do. 580 stones, at 10s. per stone of 24 lbs. . 290 Total produce of Wandell, - L.4490 19 5\ I^am mingtoune. - Of oats, about 2441 boUs, at 18s. per boll, fiars prices for 1839, L. 2196 18 bear and barley, 281 boUs, at L. 1, 3b. 2id. per boll, 925 15 B| potatoes, about 1564 boUs, at 8b. per boll of 8 bushels, 025 12 hay, 15200 stones, at 8d. per stone of 22 lbs. . 506 13 ^ turnips, 654 acres, at L. 5 per acre, * . 327 10 flax 88 lbs. at Is. per lb. . . . 4 B sheep, 2208, at 6s. per head per annum for grasing, . 662 B cows, 121, at Lk 6 per head per annum, • 726 other cattle, 101, at L. 2, 10s. per head for grazing per annum, 252 I^ ^ horses for work and riding, 35, at L. 10 per bead for grass and straw, . . . . 350 young horses, 5, at L. 4 per head for pasturing per annum 20 ^ ^ swine about 50, at L. 3, 8s. per head at a year old (after deduct* ^ ing inlay cost.) . . . 170 t' WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 829 wool, Clieviot about 150 stones at L. 1 per stone, on an average^ 150 blackfacedy about 210 stones, at IQs. per stone of 24 ib. 105 Total produce of Lommingtoune • . L. 6422 15 01 Total produce of the parish, exclusive of glebe, L. 10853 14 5 j Rate of Labour. — The rate of wages for good meii-servants fit for all kinds of farm-work, ranges from L. 9 to L. 13 per annum ; for stout lads of eighteen, from L. 6, lOs. to L. 8. Servant girls for out-door £irm work get about L. 4, and sometimes more for the summer half year ; and in winter, from L. 2, 5s. to L. 3 ; wo- men of experience, and entrusted with the care and mani^ment of a house, get from L. 7 to L. 10 per annum ; girls of twelve or thirteen, employed to herd cows, get from 15s. to L. 1 for the sum- mer half year. Men on day's wages get Is. in winter, and Is. Sd. or so, with victuals in summer. In harvest, the usual wages per day for a man is Is. 6d. with victuals; women. Is. or Is. 3d. with vic- tuals also. Potato gatherers get 6d. a-day and their food. Joiners, 2s. with, or 2s. 6d. if without food. Shepherds have the produce of one pack of sheep, that is, 48 sheep of the white-faced, or 55 of the black-faced kind, (the pack their own,) pastured with those of their master : married men have also a cow, potatoes, and 50 stones of meal in the year. Articles o/ Manufacture^ ^c. — All the common implements used in husbandry may be procured from tradesmen belonging to the pa- rish. Good iron ploughs, and there are few else now used, may be purchased for L. 4 each. Carts cost from L.8 to L.10 each ; and a harrow may be bought from 8s. to lOs. The price of a horse- shoe is 9d.; and other smith-work in like proportion. Men's shoes, about 9s. 6d., and women's shoes, 6s. per pair. Prices ofProvisions.'^Eggs per dozen in winter^ from 9d. to Is. ; in summery from 4^d. to 6d. A hen costs about Is. 6d. ; young fowls about 9d., and well-grown ducklings. Is. each ; a duck about Is. 8d. or 2s« Noffeese are kept in the parish, as they are reckoned hurt- ful to the pasture. Turkeys may be had from 3s. 6d. to 4s. a-piece. Fresh butter of the best quality may be had in the summer months from 7d. to 9d. per imperial lb. In short, all these articles arc sold at a penny or twopence, (the dozen for eggs, and the pound for butter,) below the prices in the Edinburgh market, for which they are weekly collected by carriers and hucksters. Skim-milk sells for a penny the Scots pint, and butter-milk the same. Good skim milk cheese sells at about Q^d, per lb., and sweet-milk cheese about 5d. or 6d. for the same weight, the imperial Ib. Clydesdale but- 830 LANARKSHIRE. ter is much prized in the Edinburgh market, and the butter and cheese of this parish are not inferior to what are produced in any part of Scotland, not excepting Cuninghame in Ayrriitre^ long so famous for these necessary articles of food. Dairy produce in a wholesale way is generally sent to Edinburgh at the Hallow Fair in NoTember. Livestock, — The &vourite breed of sheep here still contiooes to be the black-Jaeed. Of the Cheviot, or wkiie^Jkoedy there are 82 scores upon Woodend in Wandell, and Beatlaws, in Lamming- toune, nearly in equal proportions. The black-faced are still es« teemed as the most deKcate mutton ; but the white-faced lamlM come earlier into the shambles than those of the black-faced. Tie farm horses are generally of the powerful Clydesdale breed. Ay^ shire cows are almost the only ones sought after, and due atten- tion is paid to improving the stock. In some few instances we find a cross between them and the Teeswater breed ; which are much valued by some. Dratmn^.— Though the general eharaeter of the land in this parish is dry and kindly, still there are considerable tracts of H that stand greatly in need of surface and other draining, such as a large portion of the farms of Otterburns and Callands in Lam- mingtoune; and of Wandell- Mill and Birnock, in the barony of Wandell. A good deal has of late been done to carry off the water from the low-level holms on the Lammingtoune estate. Leases, — The leases of the larger farms in both baronies are ge- nerally for nineteen years. The crofts, or plansy as they are term- ed, let to the villagers, are only on leases of nine years; a term much too short to encourage anything like improvement. The old terms of Whitsunday, the 26th of May, and of Martinmas, the 22d November, are still universally observed here, whether for tenants entering upon leases, or for servants entering to, or leafing their service in families. Fences, — Enclosures to any extent, or good purpose, were tlH very lately, but very partially known in this parish ; and much in many places has yet to be done in this respect, ere it can be said generally to have fairly lost its naked and deserted appearance. Such fences as are, consist almost exclusively of what are termed Galloway stone dikes, which, however useful, are still exceeding- 'y "^ty compared to thorn-hedges, which give a soft and clothed aspect to a country, especially when diversified by a due sprink- ling of ash or e/w, as in the hedgerows, along the high-roads and WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE* 83t round the enclosures, of ** merry England." Really it is'not only lamentable^ but astonishing in no small degeee, that the great hnded proprietors of Scotland should not think how easily they might socn wipe away the too much merited stigma so constantly east in our teeth by our southern neighbours, as to the bleak and sterile aspect of our dear native country* There is not a qmck-hedge in the whole barony of Wandell, uiJess it may be round a ^totSyurd^ and on the south march of the Wandell glebe* Lammingtoune^ though not so bad, has yet but few good hedges upon it. Such as are, are chiefly about the village crofb and close vicinity* It is true, however, that within these two years, since the young proprietor came^ (tf age, a good beginning has taken place, by putting in thorn hedges on the fiirm of Mains, both along the side of the parish road, and also in subdivisions throughout the farm* Hedges have likewise been set along the new access to Beatlaws farm-house; and wherever they have been planted they promise to do well* Farm Buildings^ ^e. — In respect to farm-houses in this parish^ there is also, in the greater part of them, much room for amend- ment* Generally speaking they are very limited in point of accom- modation ; ill finished, not being lathed upon the walls, and con- sequently damp, cold, and uncomfortable. The older ones are all built upon the same plan, of one storey, with three apartments, con- sisting of a kitchen in one end, a small family room in the middle, off a long passage, leading to a larger apartment called ^* the far roam^^* in the other end of the house. The garret is but rarely either floored or plastered* In all these three apartments there are iids. The kitchen is usually the largest apartment in the house, — the fire is placed about 6 feet from the gable towards the middle of the floor, and has commonly a bench or form, or sometimes a long wooden seat with arms, called a ** long settle,** placed between the grateand the gable wall, occupied by the young farm lads as a *^ rest- ing chair" in the winter evenings after the labours of the day. The smoke is collected by what is called a brace, that is, a square- mouthed box, resembling the inverted hopper of a mitt, about 5 or 6 feet wide, placed directly over the fire, at the height of 6 feet or so from the floor, and gradually contracting itself to about 2 feet square as it ascends, and is carried either into a stone chimney in the gable, or straight up through the roof, close to the gable, by what is yet well known through all Scotland, as a " lumm,'* namely, a vent or conductor, projecting about 3 feet above the ridge of the roof, the frame work of which is of wood, generally 832 LANARKSHIRE. wrapt round with straw ropes, or, in case of the house being slat- ed, the lumm is then slated also. The " brace'* allows a very roomy fireside in a farm-kitchen, where the servants are nume- rous, and is better suited to its purpose than a stranger would be apt to suppose. In Wandell, with only two exceptions, all the farm-houses are covered with thatch. In , Lammingtoune, again, all the farm-houses are slated, excepting those possessed by the crofters, or planners^ as the smaller tenants are called. All the cottages in this parish, with only four exceptions, are old and of the poorest description. Those in the village, generally speaking, are particularly so ; and in reference to this, it was once happily remarked to me by an amateur artist of considerable talent, that ^^ he knew of no village in the whole country so delightful to sketch as L#ammingtoune ; the situation was so beautiful, the burn lent so lively an effect, the trees were so old and fantastic, and dropped so tastefully everywhere; and, then, the houses were so badf that nothing could have possibly a finer effect in drawing T Notwithstanding my friend's correct taste as an artist, and my owq partiality for the picturesque, I should be most happy to see one aud all of our villagers put in possession of such snug and comfortable dwellings, as that lately built, upon his own feu, by Archibald French in Lammingtoune, with its neat " roof of straw," its little enclosed garden behind, and a tidy flower plot in front, bordering the pub- lic road. Few situations, indeed, surpass in beauty that of tbe village of Lammingtoune, — with its clear winding bum rippling by, to mingle its waters with the far-famed Clyde, — its smooth grassy hills forming the background, from which may be seen, in a clear summer morning, the " top of the lofty Benlomond," sixty miles to the westward; — the " hill of fire," TintOy in front, and just at such a desirable distance, as to enable the naked eye to trace correctly all its striking and massive outlines, — its fine old trees, the twisted elm, the stately ash, the lofty beech, all dropt here and there amid its lowly cottages in graceful variety; and, — not least in point of attraction, — its little kailyards so trimly dressed,— with their gooseberry bushes, (the poor man!s vinery y) and their apple trees, — their rose trees and southern-woody* from which to cull, * Southern-wood is the common but much cherished shrub of the worthy peasantry of my native land I It is associated with the lioliest recollections of my l)oyish days, — wlien, on the third Sabbath of Jintc^ (a day in the calendar still doubly dear to my heart,) and in the church-yard of KeUs, and under the cloudless canopy of Heaven, and surrounded by all those relatives and fricnd.s I held dearest on earth, — I have seen the holy communion table, with its snow while covering of fine linen, so emblematical of the purity befitting the humble and de- WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. S33 in good old Scottish fashion, a post/ for the kirh^ upon a sultry Sabbath morn ! Improvements. — Various improyements have of late been made, or are still in progress, within the parish. The arable land on the farms of Cauldchapely Littlegill, and Wandell-Mill, in the barony of Wandell, has within these few years been, to a considerable ex- tent, protected against the inroads of the sheep from the hills, by excellent stone dikes dividing it from the upland pasture. The farm-house and offices at Cauldchapel have been slated and put into a very comfortable state. We hope to see the same soon take place at Littlegill, where all the buildings are wretched, and little suited to a farm of its extent, at the present day. The same remark applies to the dwelling-house of Wandell-Mill, to which, indeed, a small addition of one room was made last summer, though put down without the least attention to good taste. A neat dwelling-house of one storey, and containing six apartments, was built in 1828 on the farm of Hillhouse, upon a beautiful ris- ing ground, a short distance to the south-east of the Kirk, and it occupies one of the prettiest situations in the whole parish. Within the barony of Lammingtoune, improvements upon n. pretty extensive scale have been going on for the last four or five years. Ditches have been opened for carrying off the water from the holm land, hedges have been planted in a variety of places, particularly upon Mains and Langholme, — and a march dike put up between Loanhead and Otterburns. At Mains, Liangholme, and Otterburns, the offices have all been either rebuilt, or the old ones greatly improved. A new farm-house of one storey has been built at Loanhead, but put down, very awkwardly, upon an almost inaccessible brink of the high road. Its offices have been partly ▼out worshippers ajK>und it, — stretching in lengthened h'ne over the grass-grown abodes of the silent dead ;— and have eyed the hoary patriarch of fourscore, with head uncovered, and attended by his aged spouse and companion of fiAy years, — and fol- lowed by the feeble Ume widow in doleful black,— 41II wending their way *•* with tot- tering steps and slow,** — amid the green hillocks and moss-clad stones, with wcU'riHym Pmim Book in one hand, and a sprig of their favourite and refreshing plant in the other,— to seat themselves at thatj^a// oflove^ spread before them in the wildcrnes;:, for the spiritual refreshment of the ** meek and contrite ones,**— their venerated pas* tor of forty long years, having Uie while taken his station at the head of the holy table,«^his thin gray hairs floating in the gentle noontide breeze, and his pater- nal eye affectionately surveying his congregated flock,— and his sainted soul prcpaml to inaplore, in imitation of his Great Master, a blessing from on high, upon the spi- ritual repast !^the whole multitude in expectation, standing up,— and a thousand voices, at the moment, chanting the praises of the God and Saviour of all flesh, to the plaintive yet soothing notes of their favourite and lime-hallowed Co/r»hUly — saying in the words of the sweet Singer of Israel ; " We'll go into his tabernacles, — And at his footstool bow !" 834 LANARKSHIRE. new built a»d partly repaired, and the whole slated* These build- ings at Loanhead cost L. 6(KK The only two storey fiunnhooK in Lammingtoune, and by fiur the best upon the estate^ is that built within the same period at Beatlaws, about half a mile vf the glen of Lammingtoune Bum, above the village. It has t wing or projection in front, and another to the badL, — and ooosisti of an excelleot large idtchen, with chimney range in the gabfa^ after the nwdem form ; — a dining room, drawing room with maiUe jams, and a parlour on the ground flat, and five bed-rooms on the second floor* The whole is finished and furmshed in such good taste and style, as might vie with the generality of farm-houses ii East Lothian itself, even in its best days of agricultural prosperity. The cost of these buildings was L. 620^ exclusive of repairs upos the offices, which are suitable. All die brms have dtraskinff-malb upon them ; — some of these are driven by horses, others by water, and one, at Langholme, is wrought by steam. Some of the hnor houses are exceedingly neat and cleanly about the doors. M Beatlaws, the front is gravelled and tastefully laid out. Others of them, however, could *^ thole" amendment, — ^such, for instance^ as protecting the front from all access by cows and pigs, &c. and removing dunghills, and other offensive though usefol objects, from the approach to the house, into a situation of greater con- cealment. Surely, such little attentions to outward appearances cannot be incompatible with good management, or successful farm- ing. A great improvement to the farms nearest the river has been effected, by an embankment of the Clyde, along the whole extent of Lammingtoune, executed in 1835^ — stretching not less than three miles, and at an expense of about L. 2000. Since Mr Baillie came to the management of his estate in No> veniber 1837, a handsome fancy cottage has been erected for his game-keeper, on the steep and beautifully wooded bank of Lam- mingtoune Burn, opposite the ruins of the old mill, and upon what was formerly called the Millands. It has excellent dog ken- nels attiiched ; and I am told the whole cost about L. 300. He has also erected a large and elegant building in the village, now nearly finished, and intended for an inn, — the contract price of which was L. 800. It is of the cottage style of architecture, such as one frequently sees in the south of England, having a steep roof with projecting eaves over gables and side walls ; and it has also lattice windows, — those of the two public rooms, on the ground lloor, not oxiVj \)TojecUu^ beyond the line of wall, but being also WANDBLL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 835 livided into ooihparUnents b; freestone column& It will have )Yery sort of oonvenience requisite to make it a most oomfortable DD9 — and as the Dumfries heavy coach to and from the matro* polls every week*day passes through the village^-— gentlemen fond )f aDgUog may thus not only find a safe and speedy conveyance^ ftt a small expense, from the dingy atmosphere of *< Auld Reekie,^ to the pure air and wholesome waters of the ^* flowing Clyde," but will alao find, at the BailUesf Arms Inu of Lammiogtoune, excel* leet accommodation for a few days or weeks, and that, too, within ten minutes' walk of one of the very best of trouting streams in. the kingdom. Quarries. — There is no public quarry in this parish. Stones for building dikes are chiefly taken from some rocky spots upon Loanhead Hill, or from that of Hillhouse, — also from a place on Hartside Bum, and sometimes from the rocky bed of the river at Clydesbridge, in Wandell. The stone procured is often of a splinty description, and not very good fat building houses, though still used for that purpose. Freestone is brought, if needed, either from Thornhill in Nithsdale, or from Stone Hill in the pai*ish of Carmichael. Slates are got either from Stobo in Tweeddale, or from Glenochar in Crawford, fifteen miles distant. V. — Parochial Economy. Marhet^Towns. — The village of Lammingtoune is situated on the north-east side of the small burn known by the same name, and on Im^ sides c^ the turnpike road leading from Biggar to Dumfries- shire, by Abington and Leadhills to Sanquhar, or by Crawford, to either Moffat or Thornhill. It is thirty-three miles and a quarter distant, in a south-westorly direction, from the metropolis. At Abington, sui miles up the river, the Glasgow and English mail- coach passes twice every day, thus affording a speedy conveyance either to the south or west There are various carriers every week from the near neighbourhood, to Edinburgh, besides others passing to the same city, from Nithsdale and Galloway. Bi^ar, distant rather more than six miles, is our regular market*town, where the farmers and others usually attend every Thursday, to learn the state of markets and transact business. Servants are ge- nerally hired at Biggar fairs, in November, January, and April. Lammingtoune was formerly a market-town itself; Sir William Baillie having obtained a charter from Charles L to hold ^^ there a weekly market every die Jovisy and two fairs, also, in the year, vix. one on the 15th of June, and another on the 22d of Oc- 836 LANARKSHIRE. tober ;*' of course reckoning by the old style. These have long since fallen into disuse. Lanark, the county town, is twelve miles, and Glasgow thirty-seven, distant from Lammingtoune, both in a north-west direction ; Moffat is twenty-four miles to the south, Thornhill twenty-nine, and Dumfries forty-three miles to the south-west The farm-house of Cauldchapel, in the south- ern extremity of Wandell, is supposed to be equidistant from the sea at Leith, Ayr, and Dumfries. A post-office was establish- ed at Lammingtoune in July 1839, with a runner three days a-week between it and Biggar. Ecclesiastical State. — In Bagimont's Roll, *^ the Rectory of Hart- side or Wandell, in the Deanry of Lanark," was taxed at L 6, Ids. 4d. Scots, and that of ^^ Lambyntoun," also in the *^ Deanry of Lanark," at the same ; being a tenth part of the estimated value of their spiritual revenues respectively. At the Reformation, the parsonage of Hartside was held by a Mr Nicol Crawford, who reported that ^^ the parsonage tithes thereof produced four chal- ders and six bolls of meal yearly, including fourteen bolls receiv- ed by the Cauldchapel ;" and at the same period, these tithes were rented by the laird of Leifnoreis, (now Dumfries House,) in Ayr- shire, for L. 66, 18s. 4d. yearly. (See MS. Rental B9ok, la) Both these parishes are to be found also in Keith's List of Par- sonages, at the same important era in the history of the Scottish establishment, and they are given in the following order, viz. Heart- side, Torrence, Carstairs, Lamraington. Nothing like what may be called sl formal or lef/al annexation of them ever took place,— but they came first to be held by one and the same individual at a period when there were fewer candidates for the ministry, and consequently when greater diflSculty was found in supplying vacant benefices, than at the present day. Mr Charles Jardine, one of the Applegirth family, was the last parson of Wandell or Hartside as a separate parish. Mr James Baillie, a kinsman of the laird's, was at the same time incumbent of Lammingtoune. Mr Jardine^ for what cause, however, it does not now appear, having been de^ posed in 1607, Mr James Baillie, on a presentation from the pres- bytery of Lanark, jwre devoluto^ did on the 5th November 1608, receive from Mr John Leverance, minister of Robertoun, " insti- tution of the parsonage and vicarage olthe said parsonage of Wan- dellj with manse, gleib, and kirkland pertaining to the saraen ; and als put ye sd Mr James in actual, real, and corporal possession of the sam\v\, n\\\1\ v\U that a^)perteins thereto, be placim/ him in the WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 837 pu^it of the samyn^ and be delyvering the book of God, called ye Bybell, in his bands ; and thereafter past to the mans and ffhib of the said parsonage and vicarage, and there, be delyvering to him of erth and stane^ put him in real and peaceable possession of the said kirklands thereof, with all the pertinents thereto/' Having, in this manner, then, been first conjoined under the ministry of this Mr James Baillie, the two old parishes of Wandell and Lamming- toune have ever since continued to form but one cure or benefice. The barony and parish of Wandell, with the exception of Lit- tlegill, (noticed in a former part of this account as having been purchased about sixty years ago,) came into possession of the illus* trious house of Douglas, early in the seventeenth century, the charter to which in favour of William, Earl of Angus, in liferent^ and Archibald, Lord Douglas, his eldest son, in fee^ bears date 15th June 1613, — that is, five years after Mr James. Baillie had become ^^ persone and vicar of Hartsyde" as well as of Lamington. He died, it appears, about 1642, when a most violent contest en- sued before the presbytery of Lanark, to which both parishes then belonged, between the Earl of Angus and the laird of Lamming- toune, as to which of them should nominate to the united and now vacant benefice. The Earl presented a Mr Andrew M^Ghie, and Lammingtoune issued his presentation in favour of a Mr John Currie, The presbytery failing to effect an amicable arrange- ment between the two claimants, the matter was referred to the Greneral Assembly, who, after maturely weighing ^' the rights and evidences of both parties," and hearing ^^ the advice of faithful and skilful lawyers," ** advised the presbytery to proceed in the planting of the kirk of Wandell and Lammingtoune with Mr Andrew M^Ghie." The presbytery accordingly ^^ in regard that the said Mr Andrew had given eatiefaction in his tryalls," — " appointed him to preach on the following Sunday before the congregation,. in the afternoon," and Mr Greorge Bennet, one of their number, to preach in the forenoon, *' and to take aspection of the people's carriage.** But what followed ? — A scene of the utmost violence and confusion, which affords a strange picture of the refinement, delicacy, and retiring habits of the titled and high-born dames of our country towards the middle of the seventeenth century I Mr George Bennet, it appears, was permitted to preach in the fore- noon, as appointed by his brethren ; but as it was only by ^^ shoot- ing and ramforcing the doors of the kirk" that the moderator on a previous occasion had found access ; so now upon the present oc- LANARK. 3U 838* LANARKSHIRE. casion *^ when Mr Andrew M^Ghie offered to preach in the after, noon, he was barred by the Ladie Lammingtaune, and aome other wamefif toha possessed the pulpit in a tumultuous and disor-' derly way,** her ladyshipj it is added, declaring at the same time, *^ that no dog of the house of Douglas should ever bark there f This exhibition occurred in March 1644; but the Lady Lam* mingtoune, whose maiden name was Grizzel Hamilton, *< together with the other delinquents," were not allowed to go unpunished. For, on a complaint by the presbytery to the Lords of Council, *^ the saidis Ladie Lammingtoune, and remanent persons were de- creeted to enter their persons in waird, within the Tolbuith of Ed- inburgh ;" ^^ for obedience whereof, the Ladie Lammingtoune and remanent persons foresaidis, did then enter their persons in waird ;** — and in the heart of Mid-Lothian did the lady remain, till her brother in-law, Mr James Baillie, in the following winter, had paid over to the presbytery of Lanark, <'the soum of 1000 merks," be- ing the fine imposed upon Sir William Baillie, (then in the public service in England,) <^ for the riot had by his lady and her adhe- rents in the kirk of Wandell and Lammingtoune !" Nor, yet fur- ther, did the presbytery of Lanark lose sight of " this fact, so scandalous for the present, and of dangerous consequence for the time to come," until they brought this amazon to something like a sense of duty. In pros€fcution of so laudable an end, they forth- with appointed their moderator to correspond with the newly erect- ed presbytery of Biggar, (disjoined since the doings at Lamming- toune from their own body and that of Peebles, by the Genera) Assembly of the same year 1644,) and to «< desire them to send to the presbytery of Lanark the Lady Lammingtoune and others, delinquents^ that their depending process may be closed, and they censured by the presbytery of Lanark, whae» authority was vio- late by their scandalous carriage:* Accordingly that functionary, Mr Alexander Livingstone, at a meeting of his own presbytery on the 5th December of the same year, " reports that he had gone to the presbytery of Biggar, as his commission did bear;"—** but that he could obtain no satisfaction to these equitable demands ; but that after much jangleing and quarreling^ their answer was, that they would do nothing of that kind till they should receive a part of the soume lately determined by the council to the pres- bytery of Lanark/* The Lanark presbytery did not see good to share the spoil with their brethren of Biggar, although at the time the offence was committed, and the action was raised, the great- WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE, 839 er part of the latter were constituent members of Lanark presby- teryy aud therefore bore their share of " the charges in the tedious business had concerning the scandalous riot in the kirk of Wandell and Lammingtoune." While the Biggar brethren, for the reason assigned, refused to co-operate any farther in this business, with the parent judicatory, they, nevertheless, fully yindicated the chttrch's authority, in due time, within their own bounds ; for on Christmas day, only twenty days after the demand had been made upon them from Lanark, ^* the Ladie Lammingtoune compeared before them at Biggar, and, being accused of ane scandel com* mitted be her in the kirk' of Lammingtoune, by her resisting and stopping of Mr Andro M^Ghie, (expectant sent yr be the presby- tery of Lanark,) who came there upon the Lord's day to preach; she did confess the samen resistance, but withall did splemnlie protest that she had no ill intention, neither any thought either to prophane God's Sabbath or house, or to hinder preaching, bot only she satt and stayed Mr Andro to enter ye pulpitt, and went into the same, only for fear of losing her husband's right, (he being absent for the tyme in England in the publick service.") The Kirk of Wandell and Lammingtoune is situated on the boun- daries of these two ancient parishes, the area of the Kirk being held as the exact line of march betwixt them. It was dedicated to St Ninian, as was also that copious and salubrious spring a short way above the village on the west side of Lammingtoune bum. The building, originally, must have been of great antiquity, as may yet be Been by a fine massive circular arched doorway on the north side near the west end of the church, which was used as the most patent door up to 1828, when the whole fabric underwent a thorough repair. The walls being found very substantial were raised five feet on the sides, which had the efiect of taking away from the former exceeding steepness of the roof ; which was re- moved and a new one put on. The whole interior was cleared out and seated anew in a handsome and substantial manner, — the floor laid with freestone flags, — a handsome gallery erected in each end, supported in the centre, on each side the area, by round cast-iron piUars. The pulpit, with a canopy over it, was also made anew, and removed from the north to the south side of the building. Its old position was on the Lammingtoune side, where it had been placed, it is said, by the express orders of the fore-mentioned Lady Lammingtoune, in order to prevent it being called Wandell Kirk. Large and pointed arched windows were broken out at regular dis** 840 LANARKSHIRE. tances, instead of the former little contracted oneis, which gave little light, and did not open. New and suitable doors, also, wer» opened up, with fan-lights above to correspond with the windows. The old door already mentioned was preserved, but built up. Tradition says, — that this doorway, which consists of free- stone, has been preserved ever since there was a church upon the spot, — that the original structure, having nearly become ruin* ous, the then incumbent applied for a new kirk^ which the Lam* mingtoune family refused, but agreed to repair the old, — and that on the &ith of this promise, the minister, at his own venture, had recourse to the help of certain willing hands among his people, who secretly assembled under night, and soon demolbhed all but the favourite Saxon door, when he reported the alleged accident to the laird, and reminding him of his promise, called upon him to " repair the house of God T' From an inscription upon a door lintel removed in 1828, the present church appears to have been either rebuilt or repaired in 1721. Like all churches of that period in country places, it is ill-proportioned, being 60^ feet in length, by 23 feet 8 inches in breadth, outside. This was partly remedied by taking off, by a partition wall, a ves- try or session-house, in the west end of the building. There is a belfry on the same end with a well toned bell, put up, as our ses- sion records bear, " by the Laird of Lammingtoune, upon his oum charges^'* \u 1650, having on it this Inscription, "Joannes Monteith fecit me 1647.*' The stool of repentancey projecting three feet in advance of Wandell gallery at its junction with the south side wall of the church, and having merely a few coarse spars in fronts so as to afford to the congregation a full view of the culprit, remained here entire (the last, I believe, in the kingdom), till it was removed on repairing the kirk, as already stated, in 1828. This conspicu- ous station^ for there was no seat allowed in it, went by the name oi Canty ! There is yet another remnant of" the olden time" con- nected with this building, and that is, an iron staple rivetted into the east side of the ancient door-way, in a perpendicular position, having a play of 14 inches up and down, in order to suit every pos- sible circumstance in the objects to which it was applied, namely, by compelling any one who had been guilty of gross immorality, to do penance here on a Sabbath mom in the face of the assembling congregation, having an iron collar fastened with padlock round the neck, and the collar at the same time attached to an iron chain movable up and down, at pleasure, by means of a ring, upon the o WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 841 Uanchel in the wall. This apparatus of punishment and disgrace was named '* the Juggs," and I have met with some who had seen it used. The repairs above-men tiohed cost about L. 300. The number of sittings was calculated for 300 ; but I have no doubt even forty more might be accommodated, so that the church could hold more than the whole inhabitants of the parish. The num- ber of communicants varies from 150 to 165. There are two grown-up persons within the parish belonging to the Relief, and 10 or 11 who profess to be of the United Associate Synod, — of the latter, however, only about the half are regular in attendance Upon their place of worship. The Manse and offices were built in 1822, and are upon the Lammingtoune glebe, near to the burn, and about a gunshot to the north of the Kirk. The contract price was L. 820, the lowest estimate being, in this case, as it often happens in similar cases of a public nature, unwisely preferred. It was considered by many as much too low for the work to be performed, and the contractor being in difficulties, the job was badly executed. The consequence was, that, (in the first three years after), all the upper ioors had to be lifted and relaid in a prefer manner, an entirely new garret stair had to be made, and the whole roof was stript and properly slated ; and, again, in a few ^ears after these repairs, the whole of the front windows proved so defective, that they were taken out, and new ones of a more substantial make put in their stead. In short, there cannot have been less than L. 300 laid out in repairs, since it was built. There is still something so completely defective about either the south gable or chimney stalk, that, (after all that has been attempted to cure the evil,) what ought to be one of the principal apartments, viz. the drawing-room, situated in that end of the house, has been obliged to be left unoccupied^ on account of the quantity of rain water coming from the vent ! Were this only cured, the manse might, in all other respects, be said to be a most comfortable house. The Glebe consists of 12 imperial acres, including manse, offices^ and garden. The glebe of WandeU lies on the south-west of the Kirk, and contains 6 Scots acres, and is enclosed on two sides by hedges, on a third by a stone dik^, and on the fourth by a hedge with a facing of stones at the root. Lammingtoune glebe contains 4 Scots acres, and is enclosed partly by thorn hedges, partly by a wall, and is bounded on the east by the burn. Both glebes are arable, and, if let at the rate of the neighbouring crofts, might, exclusive o( vxssoasft 842 LANARKSHIRE. and garden, bring L, 30 yearly. The produce from the glebe may be stated as follows, viz. Of oats, about 24 bolls, at fiars prices of ISs. per b<^ Of barley, about 5| bolls, at fiars prices of L. I , is. per boU, Of potatoes, about 84 bolls, at 86. per boll of 8 imperial busbela. Of turnips, about 90 carts, at 5s. per cart, Of cows, on an average of years, 3, at L. 6 per head per annum. Of sheep, on an ayerage of years, 5, at 8s. per bead per annum. Of pigs, on an arerage 1, value at a year old, after deducting inlay. Of hordes, on an average 1, partly fed by hay and straw from my glebe. The garden may be worth about yearly. Total of estimated produce of the glebe, L. 90 14 The stipend, as by the locality fixed by the Court of Teinds in 1798, is as follows, viz. Wandell, . 23b. 2f. Ip. S^l. meal; lib. 3f. Op. 9|1. bear, and L.55, 10s. Id. Laromingtoune, I9b. Of. Op. 3^ 1. meal ; 9 b. 2f. p. If L bear, and L. 10, ds. 8d. L.21 12 6 12 13 12 7 10 18 2 8 8 e, 10 8 Total, 42b. 2f. 2p. 2§1. meal ; 21 b. If. 1 p. 1^1. bear, and L.71, Ids. 4d. In this the allowance for cotnmonion elements is included. In the year 1824, I applied for an augmentation, when the Court mo- dified 15 chalders, one-half meal, and the other half barley. This was met on the part of the heritors by saying that all their teinds were valued and exhausted. It has, however, since turned out, that a portion of the estate of Lammingtoune has been found un- valued ; but the teinds from which have not yet been fixed by a decision of the Court. The minister has a right to peat, fuel, turf, and divot, both in Lammingtoune and Wandell, and which I exercise as often as I have occasion for all or either of them. Education, — There were formerly two schools in the united pa- rish, namely, one upon the farm of Woodend, about the centre of Wandell, on the south side of the high road, where the ruins still remain, and another in Lammingtoune, both of which were esta- blished by " the Commissioners of the shire of Lanark on the loth of June 1697, conformed to the twentie-sext act of the sixth ses- sion of this (i. e, then) current Parliament." " The yearly sala- ries modified for the schoolmasters were 200 merks Scots, viz. 50 for the school of Wandell, and 130 for the school of Lamming- toune, appointed to be att the church." Mr John Tweedie, father of the present respectable parochial teacher of Pettinain, was the last schoolmaster of Wandell. He died after the commencement of the present century, when, owing to the smallness of the salan', and the great decrease in the population of that district, no male teacher could be had to accept of the situation, and accordingly it was conferred w^otv ^ JcmaU^ J^tv^I Telfer^ who continued to teach WANDELL AND LAMMFNGTOUNE. 843 there for a few years afterwards. The loss of this school still con- tinues a matter of deep regret to the present inhabitants of Wan* delL Attached to this humble seminary, there is a bursary at the High School and University of Glasgow, endowed by the last Countess of Forfar, in 1737 ; and the last bursar who enjoyed the benefit of it was the Rev, Alexander Telfer, minister at John* stone in Renfrewshire. The bequest is in favour of any boy no- minated by the kirk-session, *^ being born of honest parents, edu- cate and taught in the school of said barony and lands of Wandell.'' And accordingly, on this account, the original school having, as stated, been allowed to fall into decay, the only other school iti the united parish was, in lOSiij removed from the village of Lam- miDgtoune, and a handsome and commodious new school-room was then built in its stead within the bounds of Wandell, near to the high road, and but a short distance from the kirk, and intended to accoimnodate the whole parish. The building cost L. 164 and upwards. A small plot of ground was at the same time set off be* tween the school and the road for the use of the children at their amusements. The old school and school-house of Lammingtoune were, in the same year, thrown into one, as a dwelling-house for the teacher. The whole was remodelled and completely repair- ed at an expense of L. 240. The old plai/ ffround in front, now no longer required for that purpose, yet being public pro{!»erty, would seem to fall naturally to the schoolmaster of the united pa- rish, and if inclosed, might go to compensate him for the garden belonging to the old school of Wandell, to which, as schoolmaster of both parishes, he is in strict justice clearly entitled. The sa- lary is the maximum. The wages are, 2s. per quarter for English, and the other branches taught are charged in proportion. The pre- sent teacher is also postmaster, for which he has L. 6 per annum. When there is a full complement of scholars, the fees may amount to L.24 per annum. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of families upon the roll, receiving regular parochial aid, is at present 7. Some of these are merely lane and aged women, who receive on their own account, and others receive partly on account of destitute children under their care. The allowance to each varies from 5s. to lOs. monthly. Besides the regular paupers, there are several others who receive occasional assistance, from the proceeds arising from the interest of a bond of L. 105 and some odds, over the estate of Lammingtoune, and of L.70, bequeathed by the late Dr Blinshall 844 LANARfCSUIRE. of Dundee, and others to the poor of this parish, and also from small sums collected at private baptisms and marriages. The weekly collections in a parish so thinly inhabited, without restdext herkarsj and with only nine resident Jarmers of the first class, can- not be supposed to amount to much. They average only about L. 6 per annum. The remainder of the demands on account of the poor is made up by assessment upon the heritors and tenants, varying from 2d* to dd. upon every pound of real rent Inns. — There has long been an inn, or rather public-house, in the village, which is necessary for people travelling by this road. There is one toll-bar in Hartside or Wandell, where spirits are also licensed to be sold* This is an act of the Justices themselves, to raise the rent of toll-bars, although in doing so they violate an express act of Parliament, and inflict a sore evil upon the mocals of the community. FueL — Peats were formerly generally used as fuel in this pa- rish, but the mosses from which they are dug being both distant, and not of easy access, nor of very good- quality, they have loQg been but little resorted to. Coals are to be had about eight miles off at Rigside m Douglas, and at Ponfeigh in Carmichael, for about 6s* 6d. or 7s. per cart, when laid down at Lamming- toune. Miscellaneous Obsbrvatioms. Many changes have taken place in connection with these pa- rishes, since the drawing up of the last Statistical Account forty- eight years ago. The old race of tenants have all disappeared, and but few even of their descendants are now to be found io the parish. Incomers from other parishes occupy their room, and many darms, then let separately, are now possessed in lease by one and the same individual. Hence, with new men come new measures, and here, as generally speaking everywhere else, a new and improved system of agriculture has been introduced ; and altogether the people may be said to be becommg more culti- vated in their manners, and more comfortable in their mode of living. The throwing together of so many fhrms^ however, is to be regarded as the chief cause of the decrease in the population from 417 in the year 1792, to 331 in 1840. The great obstacles to the farther improvement of land in this parish are, the want of complete enebsures and subdivisions of farms, — the want ofsMier^ only to be remedied by the proprietors putting down plantations of young woods, -^the want of draining in many places, — and, lastly, WANDELL AND LAMMINGTOUNE. 845 the great distance from any large or populous market-town. It has been already hientioned, that the estate of Lammingtoune has, for a century past, gone into various families, owing to its being entailed upon females as well as males ; and it may not be gene- rally known that the present Marquess of Anglesea is the lineal descendant, and male representative of the ancient family of Lam- mingtoune, — his grandfather. Sir Nicholas Bayley or Baillie, having in 1737, married the Honourable Caroline Paget, in right of whom her son, Sir Henry, succeeded to the honours and estates of Paget in 1769, and in the year following assumed the simame of Paget, and in 1784 was created Earl of Uxbridge. Wheat of good quality has been raised in this parish, though ever since the severe winter of 1836, I believe it has been mostly given up. I tried winter wheat for several years upon the glebe, and the return was from ten to twelve busheLs from one bushel of seed. The weight of one bushel thus raised was exact- ly the same as that of the grain sown, which was bought in the Edinburgh market. But such a result can only be looked for in good seasons. Every dwelling-house within the parish, with only two excep- tions (Keygill and Birnock) may be seen from the public road. The following is a list of the several incumbents of Wandell and Lammingtoune, since they became united in 1608, upon thedeposi- tionof Mr Charles Jardine, the last ^^ parson" of the old parish of Wan- dell : — Mr James Baillie,— -died 1643; Mr John Crawibrd, ejected about 1662, and died 1674 ; Mr William Baillie, ; Mr James Baillie, 1689 ; Mr William Baillie, (who appears to have been mini- ster for only one year, but whether he was translated, or died at that time, does not appear) ; paf ish vacant from 1690 for several years ; Mr Robert BailUe, translated to Inverness about the year 1 700 ; another vacancy till 1708, when the ordination took place of Mr David Blinshall, who died upwards of 100, in 1765; Mr Jame» Raid, transported to the parish of Kinglassie in 1773 ; Mr Thomas Blitchell, died 12th March 1816. After another long vacancy of five years, the present incumbent was ordained the Sd of May 1821, on a presentation from the late Lord Douglas, whose right as alternate patron of the benefice, along with Mr Baillie of Lam* mingtoune, was decided that year by the Court of Session. May 1840. PARISH OF WALSTON. PRfeSBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. JOHN WILSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The village of Walston, to which this parish is evi- dently indebted for its name, has been supposed to be so called* from a particular well, or spring, distant from it about half-a*mile, and at one time in some repute for its medicinal properties. It seems more probable that the name is derived not from one well but sev^ ; viz. the Buck-well, the Siller-wells, Walston-well, and many others, named and nameless, in the neighbourhood, from which no less than three rivulets descend in the immediate vicini^. But pro- bable as this etymology may appear, the conjecture may still be hazarded, that, as the neighbouring parish of Dolphinton, which anciently belonged to the same proprietors, took its name from Dolfyn, a brother of Cospatrick, the parish of Walston may have taken its name from Waldef, another brother of the same Earl,-f- and that from Waldefs-toun, the name may have been transformed into Walyston and Walston. Boundaries^ 8fc, — In 6gure, this parish approaches towards a trapezium^ the northern, eastern, and southern boundaries extend- ing to about 3 miles respectively, and the western to about 2 mil^. It is bounded on the north, by a comer of Carnwath, and by Dun- syre ; on the east, by Dolphinton ; on the south (having touched Kirkurd and Skirling in a single point) by Biggar ; and on the west, by Libberton. Medwin Water, the northern boundary, flows gently to the westward, no longer in a thousand meanders, as na- ture dictated, but in a sunk artificial channel, straight at both ex- tremities, and curved towards the middle abruptly and ungrace- fully; the difference of level between the point where it first touches the parish, and that where it leaves it, being not more than 15 feet. On this line the lowest point, as determined by actual survey, is 660 feet above the level of the sea, and conse- • Vidr Chalmers's Caledonia, and former Statistical Account, t Dolfyn awd Vx'aldcf, brothers of Cospatric, Earl of Ounbar, are mentioned in the Inquisitio DaLV\d\&^ auxvo \\\^. WALSTON. 84T quentty the highest, at the north-eastern extremity, 675 feet above the same level. From this latter point, where the March burn, which for nearly three-quarters of a mile separates this parish from Dol- phinton, falls into the Medwin, the land rises at first almost im« perceptibly for about a quarter of a mUe^ forming part of a very level and extensive vale, belonging partly to Dunsyre, partly to Dolphinton, and in a still greater proportion to Walston,— ^^through the middle of which the Medwin glides silently along. The com- mon boundary rises more abruptly as it runs southward, ascending the sides of the Black or Walston Mount, and about its middle point, where it crosses the top of this mountain, gains an eleva- tion of not less than 1600 feet above the level of the sea. It then descends the sloping sides of the mount, and at its lowest point in a narrow valley, where the road from Edinburgh to Dumfries crosses that from Carnwath to Peebles, is still 833 feet above the sea level, as determined by actual survey ; thence it again ascends for about a quarter of a mile, and forms an acute angle with the southern boundary line at the top of the Broomylaw, a hill of con- siderable elevation, where the parishes of Dolphinton, Kirkurd, Skirling, Biggar, and Walston meet in a single point* The southern boundary is considerably depressed towards the centre, reaching nearly 750 feet above the sea level, and at the western extremity gains an elevation of about 800 feet above the same level. It thus appears that the base of this parish inclines considerably to the north-westward. The ridge of the Black Mount descend- ing westward in repeated undulations, till from 1600 feet of eleva- tion it reaches towards 800 feet, divides the parish into nearly equal portions, looking to the north-west and south-west To the westward, the ridge and sloping extremities of the mountain fill up nearly the whole breadth of the parish, leaving on the Med- win at the north-west corner a mere patch of level ground ; to- wards the centre of the parish^ the sides of the mount ascend more abruptly, leaving on the north the vale of the Medwin, already mentioned, and on the south the valley of Elsrickle, at first nar- row, but gradually widening in its progress eastward. Hydrography.^-The manifold springs on the northern side of the Black Mount have already been alluded to. Many of them are copious, and the water of excellent quality.* These find their • The temperature of Walston well, and of the Siller wells, where they issue from the grounds is 44'' of Fahrenheit, which would indicate an altitude of about IQQA feet for these wells ; — pretty near the truth. 848 LANAttKSHIRE. way to the Medwin by many rivulets or bur$is ; viz. tbe March burn, already mentioned as forming the north-eastern boundary of the parish ; to the westward of which, at tbe distance of about a mile and a quarter, is Winter-bum ; then the Ha'-bum, the Glebe* burn, and Black-law burn* all within the space of less than a mile ; and lastly, the Gill-bum, which separates the parish froiil Libbertoo on the north«western quarter. All these are conveyed by the Medwin, still continuing its placid course to the westward for about four miles after leaving the parish, to the Clyde, and by it to the Atlantic Ocean. Whereas the bums on the south side of the ridge, — two of which flowingfromthe extremities of the southern boundary, which they form throughout its whole extent, viz. Paul- vard-burn from the eastward, and Cocklaw-burn from tbe west- ward, and receiving toward the middle of the line, where they meet in the vale of Elsrickle, a bum from that village, and two others from the eastward, both of which rise on the farm of How- burn, unite in the Two-mile,* or Candy-burn, which falls into Biggar Water, a tributary of the Tweed, and thus transmit the waters of the Elsrickle, or south side of the parish, into the Ger^ man Ocean. C7ti7ia/«.— The climate of this parish is affected not only by the latitude, 55^ 41^, but also to a certain extent by its elevation above the level of the sea, and above the adjacent country to the west- ward. In more genial seasons, the harvests are not more than a few days later than in the vicinity of Edinburgh ; while in cold and rainy seasons, they are later by as many weeks. From the cold piercing easterly winds in spring, the parish is greatly shel- tered by the Black Mount, and Dolphinton Hill, its continuatioo eastward. These, with their shoulders and flanks protruding to the north and south, break the force of the eastern blasts, aad change their direction ; and vainly do the chilling haars^ which flow like the advancing tide over the lower lands that stretch away to the mouth of the Frith of Forth, attempt to surmount their summits. Obstmcted as by a mighty promontory, they float along the adjacent valleys, and present every considerable eminence with its trees or houses under the appearance of islands in a whitish lake. But picturesque as the effects of the haars at times may be, it is a favourable circumstance for the climate of this parish that they rarely reach it, and never entirely cover it ; and to this in some degree it may be owing, that the lands in this parish, even * " Tfa« Two-mile-burn coining fra Elsrickle bog down by Skirling, fiiUs iato Biggar Water, and then into the Tweed.'*— Sibbald MS. Account by Sir W. Baiilii of Lamington, and William BailUe of Carphin. WAL8TON, 849 on the north side of the mount are rather earlier than those much less elevated to the eastward along the foot of the Pent- lands. But while it is thus sheltered from easterly winds, it is exposed to the south*west and south winds, which blow at times down the vale of Clyde with the violence of a hurricane ; and also to those from the west and north-west, which bear on their wings the vapours of the Atlantic, and ascending the hollow course of the Clyde and Medwin, sweep almost unobstructed from one end of the parish to the other. The moisture, however, which the west winds bear along, is in part averted from this parish by the range, of which Tinto and Culter Fell form the summit, and partly by the high lands to the westward of Carnwath. The following are the mean heights of barometer, &c. at the manse for three months of the current year. At 10 A. M. At 10 r. M. t *- Barora. Th«r. att. Detach. Barom. Tber. att. Detach. From 19th April to 18th May inclusive, 29.074 55^6 51^5 29.083 57*.d 45^6 From I9th May to 18ch June inclusive^ 29.071 55 .7 52 .7 29.040 56 .4 47 .5 From 19th June to 18ch July inclusive, 2a944 56.2 54.7 28.955 58.5 49.15 The barometer was kept in a room where there was frequently a fire. The detached thermometer hung in the open air in the western corner of a window looking north-west. The climate is favourable to health and longevity, the best evi- dence of which is found in the comparatively rare visits of epide- mic diseases, and in the advanced age which many of the pa- rishioners have reached in a hale and active state. Within the last twelve years, not less than nine individuals have died aged eighty and upwards; and there are still living, and in the en- joyment of good health and spirits, in the village of Walston, twin sisters who have reached the age of eighty-four. In the village of Elsrickle there resides a lively and contented ve- teran of the age of eighty-three, who crosses the hill with all the agility of youth ; and in the parish of Linton, a venerable patriarch, at the age of ninety-three, who left this parish in 1835, having spent sixty-six years of his life in it, sixty of which he passed in the vale of Medwin as a shepherd on the farm of Bor- land. Having brought up and established in life a considerable fa- mily, he is now living in his old age in comfort on the remainder of the fruits of his industry and economy. He was for many years a member of the kirk-session of this parish, and still delights to visit it, and to render his aid as an elder at the commumou. Geolopy and Mineralogy. — Trap rocks compose V\ve xxv^fis ol xJcv^ 850 LANABK8HIRE. mount throughout its whole extent, and lie under the valley of Elsrickle. Porphyritic felspar of a very shattered descviptioD abounds on the north side, in which are found in different places veins of sulphate of barytes* On the acclivity, and at the foot of the mount on the same side, sandstone lies over the trap. On the south of the ridge, the felspar becomes more compact, and passes into clinkstone. At Harecaims, towards the west end of the parish, on the slope of the ridge, a dike of greenstone is found running north-west by south-east, and appears in two or three places above the surface in globular concretions. At^this place, also, strata of white sandstone ^nd limestone crop out. White sandstone is also found near the church, on removing a few feet of surface ; and at a similar depth, at several places along the acclivity ; and it dips at inclinations varying with those of the hiiL On the same side of the ridge, on the farm of Borland, red sand- stone is wrought for building. The lime at Harecaims was oc- casionally quarried and burnt by the neighbouring farmers till the year 1816, when they found it more profitable to bring burnt lime from Carnwath moor, than to cart coals from that locality, and bum the lime which was found at Harecaims. Coal has not been found in the parish, though in all probability it lies in the vale of Medwin ; but from the inclination of the strata it must be very deep. Beautiful agates have been found imbedded in the trap on the south side of the hill, and also in the alluvial soil in diffe- rent parts of the parish. In the vale of Medwin the alluvial de- posit is of great depth, consisting of sandy loam and patches of moss. There are about thirty acres of Jlaw or unconsolidated moss. In the valley of Elsrickle, or Howburn, the deposit is of a similar kind, but more adhesive, front a greater admixture of clay. In the mosses, large trunks of trees have been met with ; some of them in such a state of preservation as to be used by the carpenter. Soil, — The* soil is very various, but for the greater part suitable for turnip husbandry. In the valleys, it is either a brownish bam, containing moss, or of a sandy character. On the sloping sides of the hill, it is more adhesive, free of stones and gravel, and in some places of a quality equal to the best in lower situations. The ^ean height of the arable land above the level of the sea is about 800 feet, and its average mean temperature 45^ Fahrenheit. There are no mines in the parish ; but it is highly probable that two caves on the Borland farm, in the vicinity of Walston Well, (one of which is about 40 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 6 WALSTON. 851 feet in height, and enters immediately below a yein of heavy spar,) are the memorials of abortive attempts to discover lead or more precious ores. These attempts were mside in all likelihood in the reign of James V., by a company of Germans, who, in 1526, obtained from that prince a grant of the precious mines of Scotland for forty-three years, and worked in various parts of Clydesdale. * There are appearances of a similar trial on the hill above Howburn, at a place called the Tours. Zoology. — In this department, the parish of Walston cannot boast of any of the: more rare species. There are found in it the fox, the hare, and rabbit, the polecat, the weasel. The otter, the squirrel, and the ermine are seen occasionally. About the beginning of March, or in less favourable seasons, towards the middle of that month, the whistle of the gray plover is beard from the mists of the hill, in itself unmusical, yet delight- ful to the ear, as the note which proclaims that the rigour of win-* ter is gone, and that the season of soft showers and blossoms, and of the singing of birds, is at hand. Next may be heard the wail- ing sounds of the crested lapwing, and the scream of the curlew. Lower down, the blackbird and mavis in due time hail the coming day with their strains. The cuckoo is generally heard about the first of May; and the swallow and bat make their appearance soon after. About the middle of May, the crake of the land-rail begiris to be heard. During seed-time, the fields are visited by the common gull, and also by flocks of wild geese, which at that period frequent the banks of the Medwin. Wild duck, teal, grouse, and partridges are found in their appropriate localities ; as also black-cock, and occasionally a stray pheasant. The gold- finch, and chafiinch, the green and gray linnet, the yellow-ham- mer, redbreast, and common wren, are either resident through- out the year, or occasional visitants, and the golden-cj'ested wren may at times be met with.-f- Botany, — No plants deserving the title of rare 'have hitherto been observed in this parish. The following may serve as a spe- cimen of such as are phanerogamous: — On the top of Walston Mount are found the blaeberry and red whortleberry (Vaccinium myrtillus and Vitis IdcBa.J The latter may also be found so low down as about 900 feet above the sea level. Wood-sorrel (Ox^ * Vide History of Mynes in Scotland, printed for the Bannatyne Club in 1825. t In October 1835, the writer of this account found one of these beautiful little birds, which had found admittance at an oy^en window, perched on the bell rope in bis study. 852 LANARKSHIRE. alts acetosella) is found as high as 1400 feet above the same level. Considerably lower down, at a place called the Old Kirk Wa% may be found the'only specimen of the hazeUnut tree (Coryltu AvellanaJ in the parish, and beside it a patch of woodruff (A^ Tula odorata.) On the glebe, at the height of about 950 feet abote the level of the sea, are found the lucken gowan, or mouDtain globe-flower, (Trollius EuropcBus) ; marsh cinquefoil (Comanm pabistrej ; water avens (Geum rivale) ; and butterfly-orchis (Habenaria bifblia) ; and lower down frog*orchis (Habenaria vt- ridU) ; bald-money (Mewn athamanticum) ; and marsh arrow- grass (Triglochin pahutrt.) Od the sides of the Borland Burn, common golden-rod (Solidago Virgaurea) ; common dwarf cktiis (Cisha heliarUhemum) ; and wood crane-bill (Geranium sylvati- cum.) On the sides of the Ha' Bum, purple foxglove ( Digita* lis purpurea) ; common whin or furze ( XJlex EuropteusJ ; alternate- leaved and opposite-leaved golden saxifrage (Chrysosplenium al- ternifblium and oppositifolium) ; pilewort (Ficaria vema) ; and butter-bur (Tussilago petasites.) In the lower grounds, along with several of those already mentioned, marsh marigold fCaUha palustris} ; wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa) ; common tway- blade (Listera ovata); white cluster-rooted orchis (Habenaria albida); aromatic palmate orchis (Gymnadenia conopseaj^ and yellow water iris (Iris Pseud- Acorus.) In the Borland moss, com- mon mares-tail (Hippuris vulgaris)^ and cranberry (Vacemban oxycoccos)^ may be found, but neither abundantly. Genista anglica P^imaisift palustris Ononis arvensis Epilobiuro alsinifolium Eupfanisia officinalis Phiguicula vulgaris Gendana caropestris Sedum viUosum Linum catbarticum Saxifraga granulata Draba rerna Spinea ulmaria Alchemilla vulgaris TusaUago Farfara Menyanthes trifoliata Caidamine pratensis, Drosera rotundifolia may also be met with in their appropriate habitats. The moun- tain ash fSorbus or Pyrus aueuparia) is to be met with, eaten down by sheep, and pushing out its branches under shelter of the heather, after the manner of white clover, and nearly as small, (anl in more favourable situations) as a stately ornamental tree. Were the high grounds enclosed it would speedily rush up in all direc- tions ; and at present it may be seen raising its head above the whins, which protect it from the ravages of its enemies. This tree may therefore be regarded with justice as a native of the pa- WALSTON. 853 risb, and there are three splendid brethren of the species growing in the immediate vicinity of the manse. The other trees which seem adapted to the climate and soil, and of which good speci- mens are to be seen on the Walston or Elsrickle sides of the hill, are, the elm, the plane, the ash, the gean, and the hawthorn. There are in the garden at the Place, formerly the manor house, two fine yew trees of considerable age, and there was also in an enclosure beside it a row of hollies of great beauty, which have lately been destroyed by sheep. Around the manse, the Place and the Old Borland, there still remain a few plane and ash tfeeS) the survivors of a noble plantation. In Hamilton of Wishaw's Account of this parish, it is said, ^^ it" (the pro- perty) ** hath an old house seated near to the church, and well* planted with barren timber." This description is, alas ! no longer applicable. It is currently reported at this day, that the greater part of the wood was cut down between 1709 and 1752, during the dependence of the lawsuit between John Baillie's heirs, and Gteorge Lockhart of Carnwath ; and it is expressly stated in the records of Presbytery, that, in the year 1737, " a great many large trees growing in the kirk-yard were cut down, and sold by the principal heritor." To this period, therefore, we may refer the clearing which the present generation deplore, and which they cannot even hope to see remedied in their days. Some* thing, however, has of late been done in the way of planting, and the growth of Scotch -firs, larches, spruces, and silver-firs, and also of the hard-wood with which they are interspersed, affords the greatest encouragement to the proprietors to persevere in planting and enclosing. And they must be quite aware, that, though the direct return from their plantations may be distant, the return from their fields fenced, and sheltered will be immediate and pro- gressive. IL — Civil History. There is no account of this parish more ancient than that in Hamilton of Wishaw's account of Lanarkshire, drawn up about 1710, and lately printed for the Maitland Club, to which are sub- joined by the editor, six charters relating to the revenues of the liv- ing of Walston, of date 1292-3, extracted from the chartulary of Glasgow. The account in Chalmers's Caledonia does credit to his acknowledged accuracy of research. There is no separate map of the whole parish. There are, however, excellent plans of the LANARK. 3 I S54 LANARKSHIRE. 4ifl'ereot properties in the hands of the proprietors^ to which the writer of this account has been kindly allowed access. • Parochial Registtrs. — The parochial registers consist of a volume Qontaining marriages and births from the year 1680 down to the present time, and three volumes of acts and proceedings of the kirk-session. Of these the first commences in I70d» and is b the handwriting of Mr Lining, by whom it was kept most accurately during his incumbency. After his time, there is a great falling off, and, upon the whole, it may be said that the registers have been any thing but well kept. A volume of some importance, contain- ing acts and proceedings of session from 1655 to 1692, and re- corded to have been in existence in 1752, has since disappeared. It is reported to have been consumed in a fire, which burnt part of the schoolmaster's house, many years ago ; but it may perhaps be still in existence, and if this should meet the eye of any one who knows any thing certain of its fate, it is hoped he will be good enough to communicate it to the writer. Antiquities^ — A tripod of brass, supposed to be a relict of the Roman invaders of our island, was lately struck by the plough on the farm of Borland, and is now in the possession of Adam Sim, Esq. of Cultermains. The same gentleman has also in his possession a celt found in this parish, the relict of another race who occupied it at a more recent period, and there is another in possession of the writer of this account, presented to him some years ago by the kirk-officer. Stone coffins have been turned up at the east end of the village of Eisrickle, and one was lately discovered containing an urn on the farm of Hyndshieland. On exposure to the air the urn crumbled into dust. On the farm of Cocklaw, there are on the high ground the remains of what has beep erroneously called a Roman camp* It has consisted of two concentric circular earthen mounds and ditches. The diameter of the inner circle is 67 yards, and the outward mound and ditch are 5 yards from those within. Historical Notices^ Civil and EcclesiasticaL — In the earliest re- cords relative to this parish, we find it a pertinent of the lordship of Bothwell; and for upwards of three centuries it was either claimed or possessed by the various individuals, who successively inherited that Lordship, or to whom it was granted by the Crown on their frequently recurring forfeitures. The lands of Walston tind Elgerith, or Elgirig, (subsequently Elgerigill, and now Eis- rickle), formed a barony co-extensive with the parish ; and the pa- tronage of the church has all along been conjoined with the ha- W ALSTON. 855 roDy, and transmitted with it to the present possessor. Like the neighbouring parish of Dolphinton, it passed from the hands of Walter Olifard, who died in 1242, successively into those of the Morays and the Douglases.* Sir John Ramsay next obtained it, and helditforafewyears, when it was forfeited and bestowed upon Patrick Hepburn, Lord Hailes. On the forfeiture of James Hepburn, the too famous Earl of Bothwell, in 1567, the barony of Walston, and the patronage of the church, once more fell to the Crown, and were gnmted by James VL to John, Earl of Mar. By this distinguish- ed nobleman, the barony of Walston, with the patronage of the church, was sold towards the commencement of the seventeenth century to Robert Baillie, merchant -burgess of Edinburgh, a son of Matthew Baillie, of St John's Kirk, who, dying at Walston in 1655,-f- was succeeded by his son Christopher,^ on whose de- cease in 1693 his son John succeeded, who in June 1709, sold § the. * Sir Thomas Moray of Bothwell, by marriage with whose daughter and heiress the lordship of Bothwell passed into the fiunily of Douglas, granted to Sir Robert Erakine and Christian Keith, his spouse, the lands of Walayston and Elgereth, in Lanarkshire, to be holdcn of him and his successors ; and this grant was confirmed by a charter of David II. (vide Douglas* Peerage, Earls of Mentoith). John, Earl of Mar, was lineally descended from Sir Robert Erskine and Christian Keith, and this may have been the reason why, on the forfeiture of the Earl of Bothwell in 1567, he obuincd a grant of the barony of Walston from the Crown ; and why that grant was ezeepted from a revocation made in Parliament 29th November 1581. The barony and lands of Walston, with the advowson of the church, were included in the grant of the whole property of the lordship of Bothwell to Francis Stewart in 1581, and this gmnt was ratified in Parliament, 29th November, in the- same year, when a protest was made against the grant to the Earl of Mar. The attainder of Francis, Earl of Bothwell, in 1593, extinguished whatever right he had to the property of Walston, ud left the Earl of Mar in undisputed possession of the property, temporal and spiri- tisat— Vide Chalmers's Caledonia. The Earl of Mar occasionally resided at Wal- Item for his recreation in hawking, and was there in 1601 with his lady, Dame Maria Smart. — Vide Memorie of the Somervilles. His hunting seat was a square tower, pollad down within these few years to build cow-houses, which now occupy the site. t Robert Baillie obtained a charter from the Crown, in his own name, and that of lilfl wife, Marion Purves, which is date^l SOth November 1632. He and his son wmrm tuqiected of fiivouring Montrose's attempt. Robert Baillie mortified 400 tncrka for the use of the poor of the parish. J Christopher Baillie married Lilias, daughter of Sir David Murray of Stanhope, Lady Lilias Fleming, daughter of the Earl of Wigton. He built the aisle at the Mmth eflid of the church, where his father, himself, his son John, and Griziel Rachel Baililf, John's daughter and heiress, are interred — Vide tombstone in vault. His mmIj was embowelled and embalmed at an expense of 400 merks. Christopher pre- KOted to the church of Walston in 1657, four silver communion cups, which yet re- aa&l to at|c8t hts liberality. On them' are engraved his arros» and those of his wife ; md over the shield is a cypher, in which are blended the letters, R B. ; M. P. ; C B. ; L. M. ; being the initials of his father's name, and that of his mother, his own, md bis wife*8. Christopher Baillie was suspected of malignancy in 1646, and was load L. 9600 Scott by Middleton*s parliament in 1662 Vide Wodrow, by Bums, VoL L p. 272. Christopher Baillie mortified, 12th October 1660, L. 1000 ScoU noiiajt the interest of which to afford a salary to the schoolmaster ; this was lost by Btamanagement towards the end of last century, having been lent many years before Q insufficient security. % Vide Morison*s Decisions, 16891, and 8433. It appears from the records of the Presbytery of Biggor^ 1709, thai 3oVvtk^«^% L.724 25 180 40 43 160 43 18 856 LANARKSHIRE. barony of Walston, with the patronage of the church, to Geoi]ge Lockbart of Carnwath,* in whose representative. Sir Norman Macdonald Lockbart, of Lee and Camwath, Bart, both are nov vested. The lands of Elsrickle, about one-half of the parish, were sold by George Lockbart of Carnwath, in portions, in 1722 and follow- ing years, to John Hunter, Andrew Aitken, John Craig, James Peacock, and others ; and there appears in tlie cess-book of the county, in 1747, the following list of the heritors of .Walston, wifh their respective valuations : — Laird of Camwath, James Harper iu Elsrickle, John and James Craig there, John Hunter there, Andrew Aitken there, James Peacock there, Thomas Henderson, Thomas Yelton there, L. 1233 The present heritors of the parish, with their respective talua- lions, are as follows j Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, John Allan Woddrop of Elsrickle, Mr John Allan Rowat, Mr William White, Mr James Aitken, Mr Andrew White, L. 1233 Of tlie above heritors only one, Mr Aitken, resides in the pa- rish. By a charter dated 1292, the right of patronage of the rec- tory of Walyston was conferred by Sir William Moray of Both- well upon the dean and chapter of the Cathedral of Glasgow, with reservation of the patronage of the vicarage to himself and his successors. By a subsequent charter in 1293, the rectory was fixed at twenty merks of teinds, and three acres of the church lands, which were to be possessed and held by the dean and chap- ter for ever, freely and quietly for their common benefit, and were was not the sole heritor of the parish of Wulston, as asserted in the account of the parish drawn up for Hamilton of Wishaw. Jaraes Harper possessed the smsH property of Harperhall, and was the only other heritor— Vide Record of Presby- tery. I n the register of deeds, at Lanark, a James Harper is found as portioner in Elsrickle, as early as 1637, and Jaraes Leishman, as portioner there, in 163^ • An unsuccessful attempt was made to obtain a reduction of this sale hy John Baillic to G. I.ockhait. The law-suit was commenced in 1709, and settled by arbi- tration in \759. L.724 358 92 13 3 27 6 15 14 15 7 9 W ALSTON. 8)7 SO held by them till the Reformation. In Bagimont's Roll, the vicarage of Walston, in the Deanery of Lanark, is taxed at L. 2, Ids. 4d., being a tenth of the estimated value of the spiritual re- venues. At the Reformation, the rectorial revenues were let to the parishioners for L. 40 yearly, and it was reported by Sir Da- vid Dalgleish, who then held the vicarage, that its revenues were let for 50 merks yearly payable to him, and 20 merks more, payable to Lawrence Leschman, — a minister who had been placed in the church of Walston by the Reformers. The rectorial revenues were afterwards granted to the College of Glasgow.* In 1708, the stipend, on an average of years, did not not exceed 600 merks. In 1755, it amounted to L.58» 5s.; in 1798» to L. 77, 16s. 6d. Ministers of Walston. — Robert de Lamberton, rector of the church of Walston, swore fealty to Edward L in 1296, and there- upon obtained a mandate for the delivery of his property. He held the benefice during his life. In 1502, Mr Edward Sinclair obtained a presentation from the King to the vicarage of Walston, which was vacant by the decease of Mr William Crichtoun. How the presentation came to be with the King does not appear.f He was succeeded by Sir David Dalgleish and Lawrence Leschman al- ready mentioned. On the death of Sir David Dalgleish, Walter Tweedie waspresented, (20th May 1 567,) by James Earlof Bothwell, the patron, to the vicarage of the parish church of Walston ; but Bothwell being denounced a rebel before his collation, he obtained agrant of the benefice from the Regent Murray in September 1567.| In the " Register of ministers in Clydesdale sen 1 567," we find at Wal- ston John Fotheringham, exhorter, xl merkis ; Thomas Lindsay, exhorter, xl merkis. Thomas Lindsay is, in 1576, found as mi- nister with a stipend of L. 66, Ids. 4d., and Robert Kinross, reader, with L. 16. Thomas Lindsay, as appears from his tomb- stone in the churchyard, died minister of Walston, 17th June 1609, and was succeeded by his son Thomas Lindsay, who died in 1654. Patrick Anderson was inducted in 1655, and ejected for non-conformity in 1663. In September 1672, he was ordered by the council, under the Act of Indulgence, to repair to the parish of Kilbimie, and there to remain confined, with permission to preach and to exercise the other parts of his ministerial function, — which order he did not obey. In 1673, he was called before the council, and ordered to his confinement betwixt and the 1st of • Vide Hamilton of Wishaw's Account. . f Vide Chalmers's Caledonia, notes. t ^^^^' 858 LANARKSHIRE. June. In April I6789 he was chai^ged before the Council for keep* ing conventicles in his house in Potterrow, in the years 1674- 75-76-77 and 78^ and for having conversed and correspcmded with Messrs Welsh, Williamson, Johnston, and other intercom- inuned persons. He appeared and denied the charge ; and was ordered to the Bass, unless he would presently find caution, under the penalty of 2000 merks, to remove from Edinburgh, and five miles round it, and that he should converse with nobody but those of his own family. " This," says Wodrow, and most truly, ** was a very hard and iniquitous interdict.'* To the Bass then he went, and in the damp cells of that dreary and inhospitable rock, be, with other devoted brethren, lingered out days, and months and years, till God quelled the power of their oppressors, and opened the doors of their prison-house. About the period of the Revo- lution he was orderly loosed from Walston, and translated to Dal- keith. The people of Walston, however, were far from being sa- tisfied with his translation, and on 27th June 1 689, petitioned the united presbytery of Peebles and Biggar for advice how to get back their beloved pastor. In the end of the year, he returned to his devoted people. The manner of his return was not according to strict form. But the sufferings of the venerable man, his age and infirmities, would seem to have been admitted as his justification ; and on the 22d July 1690, he died minister of the parish, from which he had been so unjustly extruded, and was buried among his own people. In his absence, the cure was served successively by John Scheill, who was presented by the Archbishop of Glasgow in 1664, and died May 1677 ; John Reid, who was also present- ed by the Archbishop, jure devolutOf inducted 28th September 1678, and translated to Biggar 2dd December 1685 ;* and lastly, by Robert Kincaid, who was presented by the Laird of Walston (Cr. Baillie,) inducted 28th April 1686, and was present in the Presbytery of Lanark, to which Walston was then reunited, 2d May 1688. Patrick Anderson was succeeded by James Brown, who was admitted 24th September 1691, having been formerly minister at Kilbucho, where he was ordained and admitted June 5th 1690. He was translated to Kilbucho, whence he had come, 10th Sep* tember 1696. After a vacancy, Simon Kello or Kellie was or* dained.24th April 1700, and was transported to Glen holm, 9tb April 1703, where he died 27th December 1748. John Baillie, the Laird of Walston, refused in presence of the Presbytery to hear * Between the years 1679 and 10^, the parish of Walston was fined L.90Bj 8s. .-Vide Wodrow's Preface to VoL ii. WAL8TON. 859 him, or to redress his grievances, which seeois to have been the cause of his removal ; but so great a favourite was be with some of the parishioners, that ^^ some women at Walston" prevented bim from leaving the parish on the day first appointed for bis admission at Glenbolm, the 8 1st March. The parish again suffered a va- cancy till 1705, when Mr Thomas Lining, whose name is still bold in veneration, was ordained, 10th May of that year ; he died 20tb December 1731. In 1732, George Lockbart of Carnwath presented Mr Adam Petrie ; and the presentation, together with Mr Petrie's letter of acceptance, was laid before the Presbytery at their meeting, 15th June; but there being no appearance on the part of the parish, consideration of the matter was delayed till the idth July, when there being still no appearance on the part of the parish, the Presbytery, after due considerarion, resolved by a great majority, that tbejic^ devolutum had fallen into their bands \ The reasons for this conclusion were stated to be, 1. The infor-* tnality of the letter of acceptance ; 2. Mr Petrie's not being qua- lified according to law. This was in all probability founded on the want of a call. ^^3. The want of evidence of Mr Lockhart's being qualified according to law, or being patron of Walston," The case was appealed to the superior courts^ and remitted to a committee of Assembly, before which it was stated on the part of Mr Lockbart, that he was willing to pass from his presentation to Mr Petrie, and present a person who should be approved by some ministers named. The Presbytery at last agreed not to insist on the right which they supposed they had acquired, and Mr Lock- hart immediately nominated Mr Patrick Hepburn, who was or- dained 14th August 1734, and translated to the parish of Ay ton. Presbytery of Chirnside, 14th June 1753. A presentation was laid on the table of the Presbytery in favour of John Thomson, 11th October 1753, and after considerable opposition he was or- dained 20th May 1753, — a most unhappysettlement of which the parish of Walston still feels the effects. Mr Thomson appears to have been a good and even a pious man, but an insufiicient and unacceptable minister. During his incumbency the congregation was dispersed, — the church at last was literally deserted, — and for many years the sacrament of the Lord's supper was not dispensed ; he died 11th August 1787, and was succeeded by Patrick MoUeson, who was ordained 5th August 1788. To him this pa* rish is much indebted. He drew together a respectable congre- gation, and secured them to the church by his diligence and fide* 860 LANARKSHIRE. lity.* He was alive to every good work, and to his exertions not only this parish, but the neighbouring parish of Biggar, is indebted for the foundation of its library. He died full of years and ho- noured, 16th January 1825, and was succeeded by the pressnt in- cumbent, who was ordained 22d September 1825. IIL — Population. The population of this parish has varied very lUtle during nearly a century, as may be seen by the following stateoient: Amount of populatioo in 175^ 479 1791, 427 1801, 968 1811, 377 1821, 392 1831, 429 And by a census taken for this Account, 1st May this year, by Mr Andrew Aitken and Mr Sym, schoolmaster, elders, the popuUtioB was 488. Of these, b9 reside in the village of Walston, and 196 in the village of Elsrickle ; the remainder in the country. There are five proprietors of land of the yearly value of L 50 and upwards. Tbe number of families in the parish is 102, and the number of inhabited houses the same. The favourite games of the district are quoits and curling, in which this parish can boast of its fair proportion of good players. The people, on the whole, enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the com- forts and advantages of society ; are moral and religious, aad con- tented with their situation and circumstances. The population comprehends, I cattle*dealer, I gamekeeper, 1 carrier, 2 surface-men, 1 toll-keeper, I innkeeper, 1 masoo, 1 stocking- weaver, 1 cooper, 4 shoemakers, 3 tailors, 1 carpenter, 3 smiths, and 31 weavers, and there are employed in agricultuTQ 65 males. IV. — Industry. Agriadhare. — The number of imperial acres cultivated or oc- casionally in tillage is about 2901 ; in permanent (chiefly hill) pas- * In 1794t be was presented to Dunsyre, at that time a b«tier liTiog, aod the caM is now referred to in the Church Courts, as a precedent for refusing translation un- der particular circumstances. To those better acquainted with it, however, it aflfbrdi such a proof of factious opposition to a meritorious minister, as to establish that liw people may err in their opposition, as well as patrons in their selection. Indeed it forms a counterpoise to the case already alluded to in Walston, and if the parisA of Walston feels at this day the effects of the one, the parish of Dunsyre has been thought to be still labouring under the consequences of the other. The factious op- ponenu of Mr Molleson*s translation to that parish, after being worsted in the Pre»- bytery and synod, where the case was thoroughly understood, obtained a victory in the General Assembly, where its specialties could not be so well known, and the p*- rishioners of Dunsyre at this day can best tell what thanks are due to those who r^* sisted the selUemcnl ot ^x ^oussoxv weaow^ Uwirn, WALSTON. 861 ture 1088; occupied^ by plantations about 3a The highest rent obtained for land is for the crofts at Elsrickle, which are let in lots of from 3 to 8 acres at L. 2, 8s. per imperial acre. On the other hand^ there is some arable land so low as 5s. per acre. About 100 acres have been added to the arable land within the last twenty years, partly by improYing moss, and partly by drain- ing the land which used to be overflowed by the Medwin, before it was diverted from its manifold windings into the straight chan- nel cut for it in 1829. Draining has been extensively performed, but much still remains to be done. The improved mode of furrow-draining is beginning to bejpractised, for which excellent stones of a suitable size can be readily obtained. The greater part of the land being uninclos- edf it cannot be cultivated so minutely or regularly, as it might be if subdivided by good fences. In general, tillage is well perform- ed, and a rotation suitable to the different varieties of soil is ad« hered to. The best land is cropped in a course of six shifts, while the worst is kept in pasture or broken up only when it has become fogged, put^through a course of cropping, and again laid down in grass. Twenty-seven ploughs are at present employed, but their Dumber is likely soon to be reduced, as the farmers find that the land pays better in pasturage for cows or sheep, than in white crop, and the recent late harvests have confirmed them in this opinion. Live-stock, — The dairy stock is chiefly of the Ayrshire breed ;^ there being also a cross of this with the short horns. The ma- nagement of the dairy is well understood, and practised. Butter and cheese are both made on some farms, but the making of full milk cheese, of the Dunlop and Stilton varieties, is becoming more general, and what is made here, equals, if it does not excel the same kinds made in the districts from which they take their name. This is proved by the premiums of the Highland Society which have been awarded to individuals in thi^ and the neighbouring pa- rishes. Produce. — d,296 bolls of grain with fodder, at L. 1 per boll, 1,620 bolls of potatoes, at 58. per boll, 2,800 tons of turnip, at 4fl. per ton, 10,050 stones rye-grass hay, at 6d. per stone, 18,200 stones meadow hay, at 4d. per stone, 215 cows grass of, at L. 9, 96 two year olds, do. at L. 2, • A cow of the pure Ayrshire breed, belonging to George White in Elsrickle, gamekeeper to Mr Woddrop, produced 16 lbs. 2 ox. of butter weekljr, for six weeks sucoesnTely ; and during the first twelve weeks after calving, II stowe \mig«na!L« L.a296 405 . 560 251 5 220 . 645 192 660>bMp, I.ANAKKSHIRK k gium oi; u L. 1, do. uJS*. do. UL.a, . Gmn Bei V. — Parochial Eco Market-Toietu-^The neflrest marke Carowatb, distant the one idx>ut Gre mil about six miles from the village of Walsl There are two villages in the parish The former, situated, as has been already era side of the hill, has been gradually d years ; while the latter, in consequence < Mr Woddrop, has of late years consid are pleasantly situated ; but Elsrickle h in the trees which shelter and set off its best advantage. It is a picturesque vi attention in allotting future dwellings, ai arranged to harmonize with the trees make it the prettiest village in the upper Meant of Communication, S^c. — There parish ; the nearest was, till lately, abot few years ago, however, there was establi neighbouring parish of Dolphinton, a si which is a great accommodation to the ] ston side of the hill, being distant about lage ; and also to the adjoining parishes, great measure Indebted to the exertions < the matter under the notice of the p turnpike roads in the parish are those fron and from Carnwath to Peebles ; the fo quarter of a mile, the latter about thre coach runs from Edinburgh to Dumfriei occasionally in summer every day. Th coach from Edinburgh to Lanark run wi parish. A carrier, resident in Elsrickle, Monday evening, and returns on Wednesi bridges are of small span, unsuitable to stantially built One of them, immedia . WALSTON. 863 Walston village, i% even dangerous to those who travel in carr riages ; but there is a prospect of this being soon remedied to a great extent. JEceksiastieal State. — The situation of the church and paridi school is inconvenient for by far the greater part of the population ; not so much from their distance, fortbereare nothalfadozen houses beyond a mile and a-half from either, as from being on the north nde of the ridge ; while the greater proportion ot the population is on the south side. The church vas built in 1789, which date appears on a stone in the north-west comer of the north gable, as also the letters M. P. M., indicating. Mr Patrick Molleson, at that time minister. And there is immediately under this another stone, inscribed with the letters M. T. L. M., and date 1598; evidently preserved from a former building erected while Mr Thomas Lindsay was minister ; and standing, as it ought to do, from east to west, while the present fabric is a continuation of a burying aisle, built in 1567, and stands north and south ; the whole of disproportioned longitude, and presenting its extended roof to the prevailing winds. On a stone on the north-east cor- ner of the north gable are rudely sculptured the armorial bear- ings of the family of Mar, to which the barony belonged in 1598. At present, the church is in a state of good repair; and internally a comfortable, and rather elegant place of worship. Not many years ago, it was very much the reverse ; but on application to the heritors by the present incumbent, it was repaired to his perfect satisfaction ; and the addition of a porch to the west has improved the appearance externally, as much as it has added to the comfort within. It is seated for 170 persons. Of the sittings, 24 are common ; the remainder are apportioned to the heritors, according to their valued rents. The burying aisle and gallery above it were, sold in 1762 by George Lockhart of Carnwath to Joseph Allan for L. 81, 10s. ;* *< to be held pro tantosshis proportion of the area of the kirk and burial place in the kirk-yard, as an heritor of Walston,''' and now belong to Mr Woddrop on the same terms. The present manse^i* built in 1828, and completed in the spring of 1829, is a sufficient and commodious dwelling, suited to the living. It is supplied with excellent water, brought from a considerable distance, about two years ago, at a trifling expense ; partly borne by the heritors, and partly by the minister. There * Vide Deed of Disposition. f On repeated trials with an excellent barometer, the ground-floor of the manse has been found to he 830 feet above the level of the sea. S64 LANARKSHIRE. is also an excellent gardei) wall, to the erection of which the pre- sent incumbent contributed a considerable proportion, and thin rendered it much superior to what the heritors were bound b; law to erect * The extent of the glebe,*? inclusive of the site of the manse and garden, is 9 acres ; its ?alue about L. 12 per annunL The sti- pend amounts to L. 158, 6s. 8d., and is made up of the fiar prices of 18 bolls, 2 firlots 8 pecks 1 ^ lippy of oatmeal, and of 3 boUs of bear, together with L. 60, 2s. T^d. payable by the &mily of Lee and Carnwath, and L.8d, lis. 1]^. payable by the Exche* quer. The minister has right to twelve days' casting of peats in the Borland Moss, and four days' casting of turf on the Borhnd Moor, which servitudes have not been allowed to go into dffiue- tude. There is at Elsrickle a small chapel fast hastening to a state of ruin. It belonged to the Antiburghers. They called a mi- nister in 1760, who officiated there on a scanty subsistence till his death in 1791. Since that time, the congregation has joined the Established Church or the Dissenters at Biggar. The number of persons of all ages connected vnth the Esta- blished Church is did; of whom there are on an average 138 com* municants. Consequently, the number of persons of all ages at- tending the chapels of Dissenters and Seceders are 173; there beinor two Roman Catholics. Of these 81 are commuaicaDts. Divine service at the Established Church is generally well at- tended. Education, — There is one parochial school, and one supported partly by fees, and partly by the contributions of heads of families. The parochial school is at Walston ; the other at Elsrickle. The branches generally taught are, reading, writing, and arith- metic ; and geography, algebra, and Latin are also taught ; but the number learning the two latter do not amount to more than three or four on an average. The parochial teacher attended college for two sessions. His salary is L. 30 per annum ; and * This is noticed here without the smallest intention of reflecting upon the beri« tors of this parish, who have not only fulfilled their legal obligations without a mur- mur during the writer*s incumbency, though these, from the wretched state ia which the church and manse were at its commencement^ amounted to a considerable sum, but on all occasions acted towards him in the most liberal manner; hot that those who come after him may know that he has done something to add to their comfort, and to beautify the place, and may be led to do more for their suc- cessors than his predecessors did for him. At his entrance the buildings were mi* nous, and the glebe scourged afler getting a b^i name. Things are now somewhat altered for tbe bcUex. WAI,STON. 865 • the amount of school fees from L. 10 to L. 11* He has the legal accommodations, with the exception of a garden, in lieu of which he receives L.2, 2s. annually. The teacher of the Elsrickle ^hool has attended college one session ; and his emoluments may be valued at about L. 30 yearly. The fees at both schools for reading, writing, and arithmetic conjoined, are 3s. per quarter. All between the ages of six and fifteen can read and write, or are learning to do both. The people are in general very much alive to the benefits of education ; the best proof of which is the existence of a school at ElsricUe, where the children of the south side of the parish are nearly half-educated before they reach the age when they could attend, especially in winter, at Walston, not from the distance, but from the necessity of cros- sing the hill in that inclement season. Both schools are well taught. Library. — A parochial library was commenced in 1814; and at present consists of 500 volumes, which have been carefully ser lected, and, as their appearance indicates, read with much assiduity. Friendly Society, — There is a Friendly Society, which was in- stituted in 1808, and is not confined to parishioners. It is in a flourishing condition, and must have been beneficial in its effects, promoting economy, and cherishing the feeling of independence in the district. Savings* Bank. — A Savings' Bank was instituted at Biggar in 1882, in which a few of the parishioners of Walston have from time to time invested small sums. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The amount of collections in church on an average of the last ten years is L. 6, Os. 8id. yearly. A trifling addition is annually made to this sum by money re- ceived for the use of a mortcloth, and a small charge on procla- mations of banns. The only other fund available for the relief pf the poor b the interest of two thousand merks, mortified by Ihe Baillies, the former proprietors of the parish ; and for which there is an heritable bond, of date 15th January 1720, granted by George Lockhart of Carnwath to the minister and kirk-session, and sasine thereon, registered at Edinburgh 20th February 1720, in the 115th Book of the New General Register of Sasines, pp. Jt21, &c What further is required for the relief of the poor is made up by voluntary contributions from the heritors according to their valued rents. In general, 4d. per pound of valued rent, amounting to L.20, 10s. ll|d., has been found more than suffix 666 LANARKSHIftE. • cient. On one or two occasions, however, within the last few years, a voluntary contribution of 6(1. per pound of valued reat has been required. Out of this sum, however, it ought to te mentioned that several carts of coals are yearly paid for to per* sons not on the poor's roll, i^hich are driven gratuitously by the fEirmers. The deserving poor are backward to apply for parochial relief; but here, as elsewhere, those of a different description an sufficiently ready to make application. Inm. — An inn has lately been set up oo the confines of the parish, on the Edinburgh and Dumfries road, where sodi aoeon- modation was much wanted for travellers. Hitherto it has had no perceptible bad effects on the morals of the people, from most of whom it is at a considerable distance. FueL — The fuel consists chiefly of coal brought from a distance of about ten miles. Peat, however, is still in use, and dug in con- siderable quantities. MlSCELLANBOITS OBSERVATIONS. This parish has undergone a favourable change since the for- mer Statistical Account was drawn up. Fences of thorn hare grown up, and stone dikes have been built — ^many acres, as already mentioned, have been added to the arable land by draining and improving moss— and the climate in the low grounds must bare been beneKted by this last improvement — a commencement of plantation has been made in the west end of the parish, and the growth of the trees affords every encouragement to persevere. Some good slated houses have lately been erected at Elsrickle, on feus granted by Mr Woddrop. The gross rental is stated in the former Account to have been L. 700 per annum. It is now L. 2046. Much still remains to be done in draining, fencing, and plant- ing. The last particularly is needed, and would in a few yean amply repay the expense. The cottages in general ought to be made more comfortable. While the inmates are in the vigour of life, and in the enjoyment of health, they may be less sensible of the defects of their habitations ; but when they are labouring under disease, or the infirmities of age, more particularly in winter and spring, they feel them but too severely. The improvements necessary to render them more comfortable could be made at a trifling expense ; and it is hoped that nothing more is necessary to the accomplishment of this amelioration, than to call the attention of the heritors of the parish generally to its necessity and import- SYMINGTON. 867 ance to the great body of the people. How can those on whom a bountiful God has bestowed an abundant portion of the good things of this world, better demonstrate their gratitude to Him, who has given them all, than by their attention to the necessities, whether temporal or spiritual, of those to whom he has been lessl bountiful, and whose comfort he has made in a great measure dependent upon their care and kindness ? The blessings of the poor, and o£ those who are ready to perish are highly valued by every right thinking man, and they will not fail to descend upon the head of those, who lay out a portion of their substance in im« proving the dwellings where the sick and the aged await the will of the Lord of all. May 1840. Revised August 1840. PARISH OF SYMINGTON. PKXSBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWSBDDALE« THE REV. JOHN FORBES, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Situation^ Extent^ Sfc. — Symington is situated 30 miles south* west from Edinburgh, and 33 miles south-east from Glasgow. The parish is 3 miles in length and 1^ miles in breadth. It is bounded on the north and east by the Clyde ; on the south by the parish of Wiston ; and on the west by the parishes of Carmichael and Co«- YiDgton. The arable land lies along the banks of the Clyde, and the pas- ture reaches to the top of Tinto, on which there is a cairn of atones, said to be the remains of a Druidical temple. This moun- tain, though not the highest in Scotla^ud, yet being about 2400 feet above the level of the sea, commands a beautiful and most extensive prospect : With the naked eye, you can see part of sixteen different counties. The village is situated at the foot of a rising ground, called the Castle-hill, which has formerly been a place of strength, and is now planted with various kinds of trees.i* Name. — The parish of Symington is said by Chalmers in his * PnwD up from Notes furnished bj Mr Johu Bell, Piurochial Schoolmaster of SjmlBgton. t Old Statistical Account. 868 LANARKSHIRE. Caledonia to have derived its name from Symon Loccard, who lived during the reign of Malcolm IV* and William the lion ; who, having obtained a grant of this territory^ called the place of his settlement Symons-4(nau He adds, ^' in the charters of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, it is called SymoD^s town ; '* villa Symon is ;" and more specially *' villa S^fnumis Loccard/* Tbt name of Symonstown was afterwards abbreviated to Symontouo; and in modern times the name has been corrupted to SymingtooD The parish of Symontoun in Kyle derived its Dame from the same Symon Loccard, who was the progenitor of the Lockharts of Lee, and other families of the same name. The manor of Symonstoun in Clydesdale continued in possession of the descent dants of Symon Loccard till the reign of Robert L, when it passed to Thomas, the son of Richard, who assumed from it the local sur- name of Symontoun ; and the family of Symontoun of Symontoun continued to hold this barony till the seventeenth century, when it returned to the Lockharts. Symon Loccard, the first settler, erected at Symonstoun a chapel, which for some time was subor- dinate to the church, which was called ** Wudekirky'* or Wodekirk, the parochial district of which comprehended the territories of Tan- cardstoun and Svmonstoun. The abbot and monks of Kelso, in« deed, claimed the chapel of Symonstoun as a dependent of the church of Wicestoun ; and they prevailed in this unfounded claim, by obtaining a resignation of the chapel, upon the condition, that the chaplain presented by Symon Loccard should hold possession of it during his life. The monks of Kelso acquired a better found- ed ri^ht to the chapel of Symonstoun, by obtaining a grant of the church, which was called Wudekirk, to which it was certainly sub- ordinate. Before the year 1232, the territory of Symonstoun was detached from Wodekirk, and established a distinct parish, and the chapel of Symonstoun was made a parish church. The church of Symonstoun continued to belong to the monks of Kelso till the Reformation. The monks enjoyed the rectorial revenues ; and a vicarage was established for serving the cure. An account of the property of the monks of Kelso, which was made up by the monks themselves some time between 1309 and 1316, states that they had the church of Symonstoun " in rectoria," which used to be worth L. 19 yearly. In Bagimont's Roll, the vicarage of Symonstoun in the deanery of Lanark, was taxed L. 2, 13s. 4d. being a tenth of the estimated value of its spiritual revenues. At the Reformal\ot\, ^\\\\^m S^moutoun of Hardington held a lease 8YMINOTON. 808 of the revenues of the vicarage of Symonton, for the payment of L. SO yearly : And he was, moreover, obliged to get the service of the church duly performed. After the Reformation, the patron- age, tithes, and church lands of the parish church of Symontoun belonged to the commendators of the monastery of Kelso, till 1607, when they were granted with the other property of that establishment to Robert Lord Roxburgh. The patronage of this church was resigned by the Earl of Roxburgh to Charles L, and It was afterwards conceded to Sir James Lockhart of Lee, who purchased from Baillie of Lammington, the barony of Symontoun, which had belonged to his ancestors, in the twelfih and thirteenth centuries. The barony and the patronage of the church passed firom Lockhart of Lee to Lockhart of Carnwath, at the end of the seventeenth century. The patronage of the church of Symontoun now belongs to Lockhart of Lee and Carnwath. Boundaries^ Sfc — The parish is bounded on the north and east by the River Clyde ; on the south-west, by the parish of Wiston ; on the north-west, by the parishes of Carmichael and Covington. The figure of the parish is oblong, though somewhat irregular on the west side. Hydrography. — The parish abounds with springs, both peren- nial and intermittent. The only river is the Clyde, which bounds one*half of the parish, running nearly north, and then turning to the west. Plantations. — The plantations are mostly of Scotch fir and larch : the latter of which seems to suit the soil best, but none of the trees have yet grown to any great size. A few hard-wood trees of different kinds surround the village. XL — Civil History. Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are, Mr Dickson of Hartree ; Mr Carmichael of Eastend ; and Colonel Campbell of Symington Lodge. Parochial Reyisters. — These consist of the records of the kirk- session, a register of births, and accounts of the poor, commencing in the year 1709 ; but neither of them have been regularly kept nor well preserved. Jntiquities. — There are the remains of an ancient camp of a circular form on the top of an eminence, about a quarter of a mile south of the village, called Castle-hill, containing nearly half an acre. Some say that it was the site of a castle, of which nothing now remains. It is now planted with trees. LANARK. 3k 670 LANARKSHIRE. There are other remains of camps in the parish, but none of them so entire. There were found a few years ago, in a tumulus at the bottom of Tinto, on the east side, some bones of a human body, but not the skull ; and as the grave was shorter than the ordinary dimensions, it was supposed that the body had been bu« ried after being decapitated. About a quarter of a mile north from this, another tumulus was opened about the same time, aad in it were found two urns, one of which was broken by the work- men. The preserved one fell into the hands of Mr Carmichael, Younger of Eastend. About fifty yards north from the village, in an enclosure, the plough still turns up occasionally stones with lime adhering to them,^ where there has been a building, (said to have been called the Place,) understood to have been the residence of Symington of Symington. The moat is still visible on all sides ; and although the field has been long cultivated, some old people recollect of part of a building standing. On Tinto, a little above the base on the south-east side, there are the remains of an ancient castle, called Fatlips : a piece of the wall, about two yards high, is still standing : its thickness is fully six feet, and it adheres so firmly, that persons building a stone fence lately chose rather to quarry stone than take them from the wall. * III. — Population. Amount of population in 1801, - S08 1811, . 364 1821, - 472 1831, - 489 Population in the villagC) - 244 country, - - 233 In the whole parish at this time, total, - 479 The yearly average of births, - - - 16 deaths, - 12 marriages, - . 4 The average number under 15 years of age, - 192 betwixt 15 and 30, - 103 30 and 50, . 93 50 and 70, - 71 upwards of 70, - 20 Number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50, but none of them resident, - - - . - 5 Number of unmarried men upwaids of 50 years : bachelors, .... j widowers, .... 5 Number of unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age, 12 widows! . . . . g Number of families in the parish in 1831, . - - - 106 chiefly employed in agriculture, - . 40 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 42 • Vide Chambers's Picture of Scotland. SYMINGTON. 871 IV. — Industry. *► Agnculture. — Number of acres in the parish, arable, Scotch measure, - - 1953 which never have been cultivated, - . 688 Very few acres of these could be brought under cultivation with a profitable application of capital. Kumber of acres under wood, Scotch 6r and larch, - . . 113 BenL — The average rent of arable land per acre is L. 1, 2s. 6d. The average rent of grazing per cow, L. 3. Wages. — The common rate of labour per day in vi^inter is Is. 6d., in summer, 2s. ; mason per day in summer, ds. ; carpenter per day in summer, 2s. 6d. Great attention is paid to the Ayrshire breed of cows, and the Clydesdale breed of horses; and husbandry is carried on with great spirit, in the best manner, and with great economy. Nineteen years form the general duration of the leases. Produce. — The supposed value of all kinds of grain, Potatoes, turnips, &c. .... Hay, ..... Pasture land, at per cow, L. 3, - Thinning of plantations, ... Total, L.4983 7 6 V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Tovm, Sfc. — Biggar, the nearest market-town, is distant three miles; it is also the nearest post-town. The length of turnpike roads in the parish is about four miles. A coach run- ning between Edinburgh and Dumfries passes through the parish. There is one bridge over the Clyde, which joins the parishes of Culter and Symington, and along which passes the road between Lanark and Biggar. Ecclesiastical State, — The situation of the parish church is in the centre of the parish ; and the greatest distance from it is about a mile and a-half. It is not exactly known when the church was built, but it underwent extensive repairs in 1761, and an addition was built about twenty years ago. The old part is now going fast out of repair. It accommodates about 300 sitters ; and about 30 of the seats are free. The manse was built in 1790 ; it was re- paired and received an addition in 1838. The glebe is 10 acres in extent, and the value about L. 15. The atoount of the stipend is the minimum. Almost all the parishioners attend the parish church. The number of communicants is about 220. Education — There is but one school in the parish, the pare- L.2685 7 6 1028 411 829 . 30 872 LANARKSHIBE. AiaL Salary, the maximum ; fees about L. 15. The teacher has the legal accommodatioD& Library. — There is one parochial library. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor this year is U, four of these have families, 4, 2, 4, 5, in all, 15 children; the 11 have at an average Is. S^d. per week. It may be said the poor are yearly increasing. There is a legal assessment for their sup- port, the collections at the church not being sufficient. The poor do not consider it in the least degrading to seek relief. Inns. — There is one small inn on the road bjBtween Lanark and Biggar. Fuel. — Coals are procured at Jligside and Ponfigh, the former in the parish of Douglas, and the latter in the parish of Carmi- chael : distance ten miles ; expense, Ids. 6d. per ton. Miscellaneous Observations. Great advances have been made in husbandry since the Car- lisle and Stirling road was made through the parish, which passes through Lanark, and opens up a fine market for produce ; and if the proposed rail-road from the south passes through the village, at which the branches from Glasgow and Edinburgh are to meet, the village will probably become a general depot, and speedily receive a great increase of inhabitants. July 1 840. UNITED PARISHES OF COVINGTON AND THANKERTON.* PRESBYTERY OF BIGGAR, SYNOD OF LOTHIAN AND TWEEDDALE. THE REV. THOMAS WATSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The writer of the former Statistical Account of this parish states the njgne Covington to be a corruption of Convent' town^ without giving any reason for this opinion. But, according to Chalmers (Caledonia, iii. 747), the old parish and barony of Covington was called Colbanstoun in the charters of the twelfth •^ Drawn \ip Vtowa No\es Cvvtmihed by Mr Archibald Stulart, Covington Hill-heft I. COVINGTON AND TUANKERTON. 873 and thirteenth centuries ; the name being obviously derived, he says, from a person named Colban, who settled there and gave his name to the place. In subsequent times, this name appears in the different forms of Cowanstown, Coventoun, and Covington. The parish of Thankerton is said to have derived its name from a Flemish settler of the name of Tancard, who obtained a grant of lands therein during the twelfth century. In the charters of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, it is called Tankards-tourij villa Tankardii villa Thankardi. The same Tankard, or another individual of the same name, obtained from Malcolm IV. a grant of lands in the lordship and parish of Bothwell, where he settled, and to which he gave the same appellation — Tankardstoun. Extenty BotmdarieSf 8fc, — The united parish extends in length from south to north 4 miles, and its breadth is about 2f miles. It is bounded on the east by the Clyde, which separates it from the parish of Libberton ; on the west, by Carmichael ; on the south, by Symington and Wiston ; and on the north, by Pettinain. The mineralogy, zoology, and botany of this parish are so simi- lar to those of the neighbouring parishes of Carmichael and Petti- nain, that it is unnecessary to enter into the details. Trout and pike of large size are found in the Clyde, which winds along the eastern boundary. II. — Civil History. ^ Thomas de Colbanstoun witnessed a charter of William the Lion at Lanark in 1188. In 1296, Margaret de Colbanstoun, Isabel de Colbanstoun, and Edmund de Colbanstoun swore fealty to Edward I. In the reign of Robert I., the lands of Colbanstoun were acquired by Sir Robert de Keth, Marischal of Scotland, and they were held by his descendants for more than a century. From that family the lands and barony of Colbanstoun, with the patron- age of the church, passed to a branch of the family of Lindsay be- fore 1442 ; and the Lindsays of Colventoun or Coventoun held this property for two centuries and a hal£ One of this family built the castle or fort, the massive ruins of which are still to be seen not far from the church. A short time before the Revolu- tion, the barony of Covingtoun, with the patronage of the church, was purchased from Lindsay of Covington by Sir George Lock- hart of Carnwath, Lord President of the Court of Session. The patronage of the church of Covington has been connected with the territorial property from the twelfth century. In 1296, Hurve de Chastel- Bernard, the parson of the church of Colban- 874 LANARKSHIRE. • stonn, swore fealty to Edward I. Iq Bagimont's Roll, the rectory of Covintoun, in the deanery of Lanark was taxed L. 4, being a tenth of the estimated ralue of its spiritual revenues. In the south- west of the old parish of Covintoun was formerly a chapel dedi- cated to St Ninian, the patronage of which belonged to the pro- prietor of the lands of Warrandhill. The church of the old parish of Tancardstoun was dedicated to St John, and hence it was called St John's Kirk. In the period between 1175 and 1 199, the monks of Kelso obtained from An- neis de Brus a grant of the church of Tankardstoun called Wode- kyrch^ which was confirmed by the Bishop of Glasgow, and after- wards by Symon Lockard. In the reign of Robert I. the rectory of the church of Tancardstoun continued to belong to the monb of Kelso ; but, as they received from it only an allowance of forty shillings yearly, they appear to have afterwards relinquished it The parochial district of Wodekirk comprehended only the terri- tory of Tancardstoun, and the church stood in the south-east cor- ner of the parish, about a mile and a half from the village. The lands and barony of Thankerton, with the patronage of the church, belonged to Lord Fleming at the close of the reign of James V. In Bagimont's Roll, the rectory of Thankerton was taxed at L.4. Lands of considerable extent formerly belonged to the parish churcl^of Thankerton, which, at the Reformation, passed into lay hands, and have since formed a property called St John's Kirk. The two small parishes of Covington and Thankerton were united some time between 1702 and J 720. The patronage of the united parish belongs to Sir Norman Lockhart, as patron of the old pa- rish of Covington, and Sir Windham Carmichael Anstruther, as patron of the old parish of Thankerton, who present by turns. It was at Covington Mill in this parish, that the celebrated co- venanting clergyman, Daniel Cargill, was taken prisoner by Irvine of Bonshaw, in the house of " Andrew Fisher, and his spouse, Eli- zabeth Lindsay." He was executed at Edinburgh along with four others in July 1681. Land-owners, — The principal land-holders of this parish are, Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart.; Sir Windham Car- michael Anstruther, Bart. ; James Howieson, Esq. of St John's Kirk; and Michael Carmichael, Esq. of Eastend. There is only one mansion-house in the parish, that of Mr Howieson of St John's Kirk* COVlN'GTON AND THANKERTON. 875 I II. — Population. Pqmlation io 1755 was 521 1779 484 1791 470 1801 456 1811 438 1821 526 1831 521 No. of finnilics in the parish, 106 chiefly employed la agriculture, 40 in trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, 42 IV. — Industry. The number of acres in the parish which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage is about 2000. About 3500 acres are pastured by black-faced sheep, which may be worth annually about 5s. 6d. per head. About 600 acres might be added to the cultivated land, and might be kept in occasional tillage. And there are about 80 acres of planted wood in the parish. The rent of land varies from 2s. 6d. per acre to h. 2, 2s. The real rental of the parish is supposed to be about L. 2500. Agricultural improve- ments in this parish have kept pace with the progress of husbandry in the neighbourhood, l^he old Scots plough, in general use when the former Account was printed, is now laid aside ; furrow- draining is practised to a considerable extent, and the turnip hus- bandry and sown grasses are an important part of the agriculturial course. There is no land in the parish in a state of undivided common. Wages. — The wages of farm-servants are from L.10 to L.12 a- year, and of women-servants L. 6 or L. 7. Masons get at present ds. 6d. a-day ; common labourers Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. V. — Parochial Economy. There are two villages in the parish, Thankerton and Coving- ton. The bridge over the Clyde at Thankerton was built by public subscription in 1778. The distance from Biggar, the near- est post-town, is about three miles. Fuel. — The fuel in universal use is coal, brought from a dis- tance of about nine miles. ^d'ucofton.— The parochial school is the only one in the parish : it stands in the village of Covington. Salary of the master, L.28 per annum. Fees about L.I6 per annum. Ecclesiastical State. — The parishes of Covington and Thanker- ton were united towards the beginning of last century, when the old church of Thankerton was permitted to go to ruin, and an addition made to that of Covington to contain the people of both 876 LANARKSHIRE. parishes. The value of the stipend in 1755 was L. 56, 16s. 8d.; 1791, L.80; in 1798^ according to Chaliners, L.112,2s. 6d. The extent of the glebe is about eight acres, and it may be worth L.I, 10s. per acre. The manse, built about forty years ago, is at present undeigoing extensive repairs, and additions to its ac^ commodation. Poor. — The number of poor who received parochial aid for the year ending November 1888 was 12. The amount of con- tributions .for their relief for that year were L.90, Us. l|d.; of which L. 8) 8s. 2d. were from church collections; L.16y 86. from interest of stock ; L.5, 10s. l|d. from voluntary contribution by the heritors; and the remainder from mortclothf procbunatioDi and other dues. Mortification. — In 1790, Mr James Scot, surgeon in Peebles, mortified one acre and one rood of land in the neighbourhood of that town, for educating poor children belonging to the parish of Covington* Miscellaneous Observahons. At the period when the former statistical report of this parish was published, there were not more than 680 acres in tillagOb There are now nearly 2000. The rental of the parish m 1791 was L.920 per annum; it is now about L.2500. The farm- houses and offices are of a better description than formerly ; and the farmers are intelligent and enterprising. There is still, how- ever, a want of wood in the parish ; and much might be done by a judicious arrangement of belts of planting, to improve the climate^ and shelter the indosures. September 1840. PARISH OF EAST KILBRIDE. PRESBYTERY OF HAMILTON, SYNOD OF GLASGOW AND AYR. THE REV. HENRY MONCREIFF, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The last syllable of the word Kilbride is a contraction for Bridget or Brighid, the Gaelic name of a saint, greatly femed in the legends of the Church of Rome. Disputes have been rais- ed as to the place of her nativity, and it was supposed by Arch- bishop Usher, that there might be two saints of the same name, one belonging to Ireland, and the other to Scotland. However this may be, many places in Scotland have been dedicated to St Bridget. It is probable that the church of East Kilbride was ori- ginally one of the buildings erected in honour of her. The syl- lable Kil comes from Cil, a Gaelic word for a church or burying^ place ; and the name signifies the church or burying-place belonging to St Bridget. The parish is called East Kilbride, to distinguish it from West Kilbride, in the county of Ayr. Boundaries^ Extent, Situation, Topography, Sfc. — The village of East Kilbride is seven miles distant from Glasgow, as the crow flies. By the best and most frequented road, the distance is nearly eight miles. The position of the village may be represented as rather more than six miles and a half to the south, and some- what more than a mile and a half to the east, of the western me- tropolis. The most northern point of the parish lies about a mile to the north-east of Kittockside, which has been described as the pleasantest village in it, and which is not far from its north- western boundary. This point is about four miles from Glas- gow, as the crow flies, and about two miles to the west of the point at which the parish is most frequently entered, and which is situated about six miles from Glasgow by the main road, a short way to the north of the village of Nerston, the name of which is a contraction for North- East Town. The circumference of the parish is very irregular and undulating in its outline. In other respects, the shape is that of a sand-glass, the breadth in 878 LANARKSUIUE. the northern and southern portions bemg considerable, while it is very much diminished towards the centre. A line drawn aerais the northern half of the sand-glass, through its centre from east to west, would give a breadth of very nearly five miles. From the north-western corner, near wlucb the road from Kilbride to Bus- by enters the parish of Carmunnock, to the north-eastern corner, which is not far from being in a direct line eastward, the distance is about five miles and a half; the breadth is nowhere else so great. At one part of the southern half of the sand-glass, the distance is about five miles from a point on the east, at which a bye-road, leading from the direct Strathavon and Kilbride road towards a place called Blackburn, crosses the Powmillon rivulet, to the point on the west where the road from Alderstocks to Eaglesham enters the parish of Eaglesham. In the centre of the parish, at the nar- rowest part, the breadth is not so much as two miles and a half, and, at the south end, it is only three miles. From the most southern point beyond Browncastle, a place considerably farther south than Strathavon, to the most northern already mentioned, the distance is nine miles and three-quarters, being the extreme length of the parish. The number of square miles is 35.50. East Kilbride is in the middle ward of Lanarkshire, and is bounded on the north by the parishes of Carmunnock and Cam- buslang ; on the east, by Blantyre, Glassford, and Avondale ; on the south, by Avondale and Loudon ; and on the west, by Lou- don, Eaglesham, and Carmunnock. The least elevated ground in the parish is at Crossbasket, the seat of Alexander Downie, Esq. which lies on the road leading from Kil- bride by Blantyre to Hamilton, about half a mile from the north- eastern corner, close to the border of Blantyre parish, and about 200 feet above the level of the sea. The highest ground is the top of Eldrig, a hill situated about the centre of the western side of the southern half of the sand-glass, extending into Eaglesham, and about seven miles distant from Crossbasket in a direct line. Its height is at least 1000 feet above the sea. From Crossbasket to Eldrig there is a gradual ascent, consisting of a regular succes- sion of small hills, with very little level ground between them. A considerable part of the parish is moor-land, which commences about two miles to the north of Eldrig, and continues a conside- rable way down the south side of the ridge where Kilbride borders with Loudon. Eldrig is the highest part of that ridge formed bv the hiUs \u Eaglesham, Mearns, Neilston, &c. KILBRIDE. b79 The most direct road from Glasgow to Strath avon passes through the village of Kilbride. It takes its course within the parish for nearly five miles from its entrance into it out of Cam- buslang parish, at the north of Nerston, to its exit from it in a south-eastern direction into Glassford parish at the bridge over the Calder, where that stream forms the southern boundary of Torrance, the estate of the principal proprietor. This road is very billy, but otherwise excellent, being wide and kept in good repair. Hydrography, — There are four streams deriving their origin from this parish, of sufficient consequence to deserve our notice. The Powmillon rises in the neighbourhood of Gladdens and Dykehead, towards the eastern side of the southern portion of the parish. It flows in a south-easterly direction, and for about two miles it nearly forms the eastern boundary. When it reaches the south-eastern corner, it runs into Avondale parish, and, after passing through the town of Strathavon, joins the Avon at no great distance. The Kittock rises in the northern pbrtion about two miles to the southward of the village of Kilbride. It has its origin in a marsh commonly called Kittock's eye ; it runs by the villages of Kilbride and Kittockside, passes the house of Piel, and joins the Cart beyond Busby ; to which place the north-western boundary of the parish anciently extended, and still extends in relation to its civil affairs ; though, as regards spiritual matters, the lands of Busby are now included in Carmunnock. The White Cart and the Calder both originate in Eldrig. The Calder runs within the parish in a north-easterly direction for more than seven miles. From the central and narrowest part of the parish till it reaches Crossbasket, it is nearly coincident with the eastern boundary. Its banks, as it passes through the woods of Torrance and Calderwood, present scenes of no ordinary interest. Among these woods it takes its course in a variety of beautiful meanders. Directly opposite to Calderwood House it has formed a natural cascade at the distance of about 200 yards. It is impossible here to do justice either to the natural beauties of Calderwood in connection with this river, or to the taste and well-directed zeal of its present proprietor. Sir William Alexander Maxwell, Bart., as displayed in his exertions to make them appear to the best advantage by the assistance of human art. It is suffi- cient to say that the highest expectations will not be disappointed. The situation of Crossbasket is also extremely picturesque. After 880 Lanarkshire. leaving Crossbasket, the Calder mainly follows, thougb iu course is broken by irregular windings, the boundary line between Cam- buslang and Blantyre parishes for about three miles, till it reaches the confines of old M onkland parish, and there joins the Clyde. The White Cart, after leaving Eldrig, forms the western boun- dary for more than four miles northward. About half a mile di- rectly to the west of Jackton, the most western village in the pa- rish, it meets Carmunnock parish, and bounds it on the west for about five miles. It then leaves Carmunnock about a mile fit)m the church of Cathcart, and after passing close to that chnrch, il turns westward, runs by Pollockshaws to Paisley, and is finall; discharged into the Clyde between the parishes of Itenfirew and Inchinnan. The water of the wells in the village of Kilbride and the im- mediate vicinity is, for the most part, calcareous. In the other parts of the parish, the water is generally of the same character where the wells are deep. Climafe^ S^c. — The prevailing wind is from the south-west. There is more humidity in the atmosphere of the upper and more southern parts of the parish, than in thatof the lower and more north- ern. The quantity of rain which falls annually in the former por- tion is considerably greater. The climate is rather cold, from the elevation. The frost sets in early, and continues late. But the air is, on the whole, pure and bracing. The tendency of the parish in regard to the health of its inhabitants has proba{;)ly undergone a considerable change for the better within the last thirty or forty years, in consequence of the improvements that have been made in agriculture. In the course of twenty years previous to the pre- sent, there have only been two occasions on which fever has spread among the people, and only one in which it prevailed to any great extent. It is a remarkable circumstance, with which I have been made acquainted by a most competent medical witness, viz. George Espie, Esq. M. D. Brousterland, that, in the year preceding that in which Asiatic cholera was first known to be prevalent in this country, there occurred upwards of thirty cases in the parish of East Kilbride, of a character such as would now be considered to indicate the presence of that frightful malady. In the year 183*2 itself there were only one or two instances of the disease. Con- sumption is not unfrequently to be met with in this parish. But I am not aware of any complaint so specially prevalent in it as to merit particular notice.^ .EAST KILBRIDE. 881 Geology and Mineralogy J^ — The parish of East Kilbride forms part of that vast accumulation of coal| limestone, and iron, inter- mingled with irrupted igneous rocks of the trap series, which cross the island in a belt from the coast of Ayrshire, opposite the Isle of Arran in the west, to the mouth of the Frith of Forth in the east The great coal beds in the parishes of Hamilton, Bothwell, and the Monklands, to the ea^t and north, geologically speaking. He higher in the series, and above the lime beds of Kilbride. The coals which lie above the limestone are, therefore, too high up in the series to be found in this parish, and the coals which lie at the bottotti of the limestone formations, as at Ponfeich in Carmichael, are too far down to be reached here : the parish of Kilbride, there- fore, does not abound in coal of the best quality. At Blacklaw, or Mount Cameron, there are two seams of coal. The first seam is about three feet thick, and between it and the lower seam, which is two feet thick, there are six fathoms of freestone. The dip is south. In other places coal also has been found ; but it is only of the inferior sort which occurs in the middle limestone se- ries, and is used chiefly for burning lime. Coal for culinary and household purposes is chiefly brought from neighbouring parishes, where it is found above the lime. Limestone-f rocks of various sorts abound in this parish, and, as in other places in the west of Scotland, occur chiefly in plies or beds of from 3 to 7 or 10 feet in thickness. At Shields, limestone is wrought within a gunshot of a whinstone quarry, and all along the western borders of, and towards the boundaries of the parish with Ren- frewshire and Ayrshire, limestone with greenstone are much inter- * This part of the Account has been furnished b^the Rev. William Patrick. f .In the Account of the parish of Blantyrc, which borders on this parish to the north and east, a fuller and more detailed description of the geolofry of this district will be found. In connection with the geology of both parishes the following facts deserve no- tice : At Mauchlane Hole the river Calder winds along the base of a precipice, in which at least ten distinct beds of ironstone may be traced for a considerable distance. These several beds, of an average thickness of 5 or 6 inches, are separated by beds of schist, containing nodules of ironstone, along with many fossil and vegetable impres- aions, with the proiucfn* and euomphalug in great abundance. The up|)er portion of this escarpment is formed of freestone, and also of coal -sandstone, with vegetable im- pressions. In this same formation coal has been wrought at the same height near Mauchline Hole. The bed of the Calder here is a deep water-worn passage ezca^ ▼ated through thick plies of calcareous rot ks, and from many trials made they seem to be at least 6 feet thick. If we connect these appearances with some of the anvil* ball sections on the Calder, near Calder wood, it results that the coal alternates with the beds of limestone containing numerous fossils of the transition period. The same phenomena reproduced, according to M. Dufrenoy, near Alston-Moor, in Cumber* land, would lead to the conclusion, that the Glasgow coal-field belongs to the very lowest of the carboniferous strata. From its connection also with the old red sand- stone at Lanork, and the Leadliills greywackc, this is perfectly obvious. 882 LANARKSHIRE. mingled. At AUerton farm, in the bed of the Cart, iicnestone is seen dipping in below the igneous rocks, at an angle of 40^ west ; a little below, ironstone occurs above the limestone at an angle of H'^ oorth. At Allerton, the limestone is all lying on its edge ; a clear proof that it had been deposited before the eruption of the igneous rocks, and afterwards disturbed by them* Limestone above the bridge at Netherbridge dips 40^ south. Limestone with greenstone alternates frequently in the Cart, till it bounds this parish. Thornton Glen is full of limestone. It is also wrought at Hillhead, in the lands of Drip, at Hall, and at Thornton. These are all one bed or post. The green- stone comes in to the north. The limestone at Braehead is also cut oiT by the whin at Carmunnock. In Shields quarry the limestone seems to be on an anticlinal line, dipping east at 18^, and west at 5". At Newlands the limestone posts are nearly horizontal, the whole, with the dip of the earth and shale above being only about S° north. As the plies here are very interesting, on account of the appearance of Roman cement, we give them as follows : — 1. A layer of blaze, several feet in thickness, almost as hard as clay-slate. 2. Roman cement, t. e. lime with ironstone 8 inches thick. 3. Common slate-clay or blaze. 4. Limestone 2^ feet thick. 5. Two inches of the same black hard blaze, as above the Ro- man cement. Roman cement is also found at Clay-brae, Lime- kilns, and Mossneuk, of the very best quality. One remarkable feature in the lime deposits here is their con- nection with the trap and other igneous rocks, which are some- times seen above it, sometimes underncatli it, and occasionally inter- stratified with it. In some places the limestone is completely turn- ed on edge, and in other places, as Hermyres, and at Shields, near Newton, the rock is rent into wide perpendicular fissures, almost the whole depth of the stratum. The limestone when first denuded of its diluvial covering is full of inequalities, and smooth and undulating as if water-worn. These inequalities are generally observed to arise from the pre- sence of shells and other marine products, which, being harder than the lime, are not so easily rubbed or fretted away. The whole affords a decisive proof of some great changes since the limestone first began to be deposited ; but as to what these changes were, their causes or amount, such inquiries belong entirely to another branch of the science, and fall within the province of tlie speculative geologist. Much interesting information may also be found on the lime- EAST KILBRIDE. 883 works of Kilbride, in Mr Ure's History of Rutherglen and Kil- bride. The igneous rocks are mostly varieties of trap, with that vol- canic-looking rock the Osmond stone, which abounds on the west side of the parish. It is seen in great perfection about the head of the Cart, particularly in a rock at Craigend facing the west, in great -amorphous masses; some pieces like a compact whin. The bum forming the west branch of the head of Cart rests entirely on the Osmond stone. It is of a speckled greenish colour at the bottom of the water, but where exposed to the air chiefly of a grayish hue. In this locality it abounds with rolled balls of por- phyritic trap. Down the water about a hundred yards, a blue trap occurs much water-worn, which seems to be the rock on which the Osmond is lying. The rocks about Millhouse are all of a coarse trap conglomerate, or of the roughest sort of Osmond, and near the mill a dike of pure trap runs through the Osmond, a pretty plain proof that the trap is of a more modern date. The head of Cart, formed by the junction of Torburn and Thriepland burn, for a mile or two, is chiefly of Osmond. The dip, if it has any true dip, appears generally at angle of 30° north. At Craigen- fiech, the rocks of this formation are very high, perhaps forty or fifty feet The coarsest and roundest aggregate is always upper- most, and the finest and most compacted below. It is from these lowest portions of the accumulated mass that the stones for ba- kers' ovens, and other purposes where the resistance to heat is re- quired, are chiefly found. This mass of accumulated igneous matter bears many marks of a volcanic origin. The heaviest and densest portions of the aggregate are found below, and often bear the marks of accumulated pressure, whereas the roundest and lightest of the mass is above, and seems to have floated on the other. Its pores or crevices are often filled with steatites, and sulphate of barytes, and not unfrequently with calcareous spar, and occasionally with zeolite. To the north this great mass of vol- canic matter lies on limestone and slate-clay, and in the south chiefly on blue trap. Its chief component part seems to be clay. Acids do not affect it. It is harsh to the touch, and breaks with uneven surfaces in all directions. It stands a great heat without being rent or melted, and hence its use for bakers' ovens, &c This parish abounds with excellent freestone, which is interstra- tified between the limestone and coals. There is an excellent quarrv 884 LANARKSHIRE. at Dalmuir, with a dip 5^ west Much of this stone is carried to E.oglesham and other places, where the whinstone only occurs. As Mr Ure has nearly exhausted the mineralogy of this district, (although not very full on its geology,) it may be as well to gife the result of his labours in a tabular form. Earths and Stones. — ArgiUaceous. — Potter^s clay ; camstooes ; bluish pipe-clay ; black-grey till, with vegetable impressions'; fire* clay, till full of entrochi, shells, &c. ; hard black slaty till ; im- common till, called by the miners Maggys inflammable schistus; argillaceous breccia ; Osmond stone ; white steatites ; sulphate of barytes ; white fibrous zeolite, also compact and crystallized, orio radiated crystals in till. Calcareous. — Limestone replete with marine productions ; lime- stone flag ; fine white limestone ; also reddish limestone, contain- ing some iron ; limestone with selenite and manganese ; also lime*- stone spar, semitransparent, and of a rhomboidal form, sometimes opaque, reddish, fibrous, pyramydical, prismatic, or in hexahedral and truncated crystals. Lime is also found in the state of stalac- tites and stalagmites, and in incrustations of various plants of the class Cryptogamia. Saxa silicia. — Quartz nodules; whinstone containing felspar, quartz, and shorl ; petrosilex ; freestone; millstone grit ; coal; petroleum ; pyrites in nodules, &c. &c. Metallic siil)stances, — Haematites ; ironstone ; calcareous iron- stone, in tetrahedral prisms and in balls; Ludus Helmontii; sep- taria, or waxen veins ; aetites, or eaglestone ; blood-red argilla- ceous iron ore (keel), and galena at Eldridge. Extraneous Fossils, — Vegetable Impressions. — A run do, or bam- boo of India ; Equisetaceae ; impressions of ferns and roots of plants ; branches of trees in a charred state in coal and freestone; impressions of exotic pines ; impressions of the bark of oak in free- stones, &c. Marine Petrifactions. — Of univalve shells there occurs the Pa- tella or limpet, Orthoceratites, Cornua Ammonis, smooth and round, also flat ; Cochleae, Helices, chambered Nautilus, Turbo, Tere- bra, Buccinum, Trochus, Serpula, Planorbis. Of bivalves there occur the cockle, muscle, Anomia laevis, with various other species of Anomiae ; Conchae pilosae, Pecten, and various Echini. En- trochi occur, including screwstones, fair.y-beads, witch-beads, lime- stone-beads, Astropodiae, with various siliceous substances con- taining shells. EAST KILBRIDE. 865 CoraUoidea. — Junci Lapidei, Astroitae, Fungitae, Milleporae, Escharae, and Retepori, or fan-coral. Fishe/ Teeth, — Plectronites, incisores, with many undescribed species. II. — Civil History. According to the Chartulary of Glasgow, East Kilbride church belonged to the Bishops of Glasgow, and was confirmed to them by a bull from Pope Alexander III. in the year 1178; by another from Pope Lucius III. in 1 181 ; and by another from Pope Ur- ban III. ] 186. From the same authority it appears, that Roger de Valnois had a castle at East Kilbride in 1182 and 1189. In the Taxed Bagimont's Roll, L.16 Scots is the sum fixed for the ecclesiastical property in East Kilbride at the Reformation. Mr John Stevenson, who was also chanter of Glasgow Cathedral, held this parsonage, which was then worth L. 266, )3s. 4d. Scots per annum, as appears from the MSS. Rental Roll in the Rotuli Scotorum, fol. 8. A most interesting volume was published in the year 1793^ by the late Rev. David Ure, A. M., (who was at that time a licen- tiate of the Church of Scotland, who had for many years acted as assistant to Mr David Connell, minister of the parish, and who was afterwards himself the minister of the parish of Uphall,) entitled ** The History of Rutherglen and East Kilbride." The avowed object of this work, as announced on its title-page, was to promote the study of antiquity and natural history. The first and second chapters of it relate to the civil history, antiquities, and general circumstances of the burgh and parish of Rutherglen. In the fifUi and sixth chapters, the author treats of the natural history of Rutherglen and East Kilbride in conjunction. The third and fourth are devoted to the civil history, antiquities, and general circumstances of East Kilbride. Mr Ure sent a compend of his account of East Kilbride to Sir John Sinclair, which forms the sixty-second number of the work with which that gentleman favour- ed the public But a perusal of the compend can furnish no ade- quate idea of the value of Mr Ure's own publication. Its fulness and accuracy are most remarkable, when the date of its composition 18 considered. I am not aware that it has left anything to be sup- plied in regard to the civil history of the parish before its author's time, or in regard to the antiquities, except in so far as the condi- tion of remains may have since been altered. The work was pub- LAMARK. 3 L 886 LANARKSHIRE. lished in Glasgow by subscription, and there appear to have been nearly nine hundred copies subscribed for. Before the reign of King Robert Bruce, nearly two-thirds of this parish belonged to the powerful family of the Cummins. The whole was forfeited by the treachery of John Cummin, whom Bruce killed at Dumfries. The same possessions were given, in the year 1382, to John Lindsay of Dunrode, successor to James Lindsay, who assisted the king in killing the traitor. The Lind^ says, preferring their new possessions in Kilbride to their ancient family seat, near Gourock, took up their residence in the parish. It is reported that the last representative of this fiBimily was remark- able for his haughtiness, oppression, and every kind of vice. Among the instances of his cruelty it is told, that, when playing on the ice, he ordered a hole to be made in it, and one of his vas- sals, who had inadvertently disobliged him in some trifling cir- cumstance, to be immediately drowned. The place has ever since been called Crawford's Hole, from the name of the man who per^ ished in it. Tradition also mentions, that this haughty and cruel chieftain was soon afterwards brought very low, and that, having worn out the remains of a wretched life, he at length died in a barn belonging to one of his former tenanto. " Such,'* says Mr Ure, *^ was the miserable end of one of the greatest dnd most opulent families in this country." The family of Lickprivick made a considerable figure long before the reign of Robert Bruce. On account of singular services, they obtained, in the year 1397, the heritable title of Sergeantcy and Coronership in the Lordship of Kilbride, along with considerable emoluments inseparable from it. The charter was renewed to them by James I. of Scotland, James IV., and James VL More recently, the title, with the profits, became con- nected with the estate of Torrance. One of the Lickprivick fa- mily was printer to James VI. The name appears to have now become extinct in this part of the country. Mr Ure mentions the death of the last person bearing it, of whom he had heard, as having taken place at Strathavon, a few years before he published his book* The family of which the present Sir William A. Maxwell, Bart, of Calderwood is the representative, may be traced back, in their connection with this parish, and by the name of Maxwell, to so early a period as the reign of Alexander III. The family, ro- presented by Miss Stuart of Torrance, the principal proprietor of the parish, derive their origin, through the Stuarts of Castlemtlk, EAST KILBlilDE. 887. from Sir William Stuart, who is moDtioned in Rymer's Foadera Angliae as one of the sureties given on the part of Scotland, in 1398, for the preservation of the peace of the Western Marches between England and Scotland ; and who, along with his brother, Sir John Stuart of Darnley, went to France during the reign of James I. of Scotland, and rendered such signal services to Charles VIL of France, that they are mentioned with high encomiums by many historians of those times. The Maxwells of Calderwood and the Stuarts of Torrance have frequently given to the nation men of distinguished ability, who have honourably supported leading characters in the camp or the court. Many of them have acted a conspicuous part both in Europe and in the East and West Indies. The parish of East Kilbride comprehends the ancient parish of TcMTance^ the name of which is derived from Torran^ the dirai* nutive of Tor^ ^^ a mount." At the Reformation this parish was held by the Hamiltons, (cadets of the family of Hamilton,) and was leased for forty merks yearly. It probably embraced the estate of Torrance, of which the Hamiltons were proprietors. Its name was taken from an artificial moiind of earth, still known by the name of the Tor, which is situated about a quarter of a mile from the present House of Torrance. It is about an hundred and sixty yards round the base, and twenty of ascent The area on the top is of an oval shape, and there are some trees of considerable height now standing upon it. The earth seems to have been ori-' ginally dug out on all sides evenly round the spot, in order to con- struct it. It appears now in a plantation very near the modern road from Kilbride to Strathavon. The old kirk of 'J'orrance stood about half a mile from the mansion-house, near the village of Newhouse Mill, on the border of Blantyre parish. It was left to fall into ruins after 1539, and had been totally demolished long before Mr Ure's time. He mentions that human bones were oc** casionally dug up in what had been the adjoining burying-ground. About twenty-five years ago, the tenant of Newhouse Mill farm removed all the earth of this ancient churchvard, in order to en- rich the soil of one of his fields. Mauchline Hole, or Calder Glen, as it is now called, which has recently been united to the estate of Calderwood, is said to have been the residence of the rectors of Torrance. The records of the presbytery of Glas-' gow, in 1589, inform us, that the parish of Torrance was, in that year, annexed to the parish of Kilbride, ^^ as being a pendicle thereof, and as next adjacent to the said k\rk.'* 888 LANARKSHIRE. The lands of Busby were detached from the parish of Kil- bride, and annexed to Carmunnock, quoad sacra j in 1642, and again in 1725. In Popish times, the rector of East Kilbride was chantar to the Cathedral of Glasgow. Wodrow in his history observes, that, about the middle of the seventeenth century, the people of this parish were greatly divided in their religious opinions. The Rev. John Burnet was the Presbyterian minister at the Restoration, and had then laboured for many years, with much popularity and success. He was outed from his charge, and deprived of his liv- ing, by the Act 1662. He was offered the indulgence in 1673, not long before his death. He was not so strongly opposed to this measure as many of his brethren. But he felt it to be his duty to decline the offer ; and his reasons for not accepting of it, along with his letter to the Duke of Lauderdale, are to be found among the Testimonies of the Scots Worthies, as published at Glasgow in 1829. Wodrow says of him, that, *< though he had no freedom to fall in with the indulgence himself, yet he was very opposite to division upon that score, and both heard the indulged minis- ters, and pressed his people in Kilbride to do so ; that he bad been singularly useful in that parish, where there were a great many Quakers and Separatists; and that, by the excellence of his preaching and other labours, he had reclaimed the greater part of them." From his death to that of Mr David Connell, in 1790, the people were united in religion* But, when a presentation from the Crown, to supply the vacancy which that event occasioned, was procured for Mr James French, then minister of Cannunnock, a division took place, and a meeting-house was immediately built in the village of Kilbride, in connection with the Relief body. The name of Flakefield took its rise from a place called FIak»- field, in the southern division of this parish. A young man of the name of Wilson went from Flakefield to Glasgow, and commen- ced business as a merchant, about the middle of the seventeenth century. To distinguish himself from another Wilson, who had come with the same views from the same neighbourhood, he as- sumed the name of Flakefield, which he ever afterwards retained. This person's son was the means of giving rise to a very lucrative and useful branch of business, by which the prosperity of Gla^w was greatly advanced. A particular account of the circumstances connected with the origin of that business is to be found in Mr Ure*s History. EAST KILBRIDE. 889 The village of Kilbride was constituted a burgh of barony about the end of Queen Anne's reign, and the inhabitants were em- powered by the grant to hold a weekly market on Tuesday, be* sides four fairs in the year. When the plague raged in Glasgow the people in Kilbride, and in the neighbouring parts of the coun- try, would not approach nearer the city with their marketable goods than a hill about half a mile to the north of Kilbride, on the old road to Glasgow, to which the inhabitants of Glasgow con- sequently resorted, as a temporary market-place, and which has ever since retained the name of the marheUhilL The parish of Sast Kilbride is remarkable for having been the residence of Mrs Jean Cameron, a lady of a distinguished family, whose zealous attachment to the exiled house of Stuart, and whose active exertions for its^ interest, in 1745, made her well known through Britain. Mr Ure gives a description of her cha- racter and manners, as she appeared during the latter part of her life, which is fitted to produce a most favourable impression. Af- ter the public scenes in which she took a share were at an end, «he retired to a bleak and solitary spot, then called Blachlawj which is a small eminence about three-quarters of a mile south- east from the village of Kilbride^ where there was a neat and com- modious dwelling-house. She there spent the remainder of her days. She attended divine service in the parish church. She died in 1773, and was buried amid a clump of trees on the south side of the house in which she had lived. The trees appear to have been since cut down, for though there are trees not far dis- tant, the grave fs now in an open field, and, while it is itself re- spected, the ground close round it is regularly ploughed over. In the year 1831, there was an old man resident in the parish, of eighty-three years of age, from whom Dr Espie obtained the follow- ing information regarding Mrs Jean Cameron, which he communi- cated in a letter to a friend. The letter was afterwards printed in the Edinburgh Literary Journal for October 1831, p. 227. The old man, according to Dr Espie's account, had been a servant to the late well-known Professor Miller of Glasgow, who resided at the time at Whitemoss, a place within the parish, a short way to the east of Kilbride, and who ordered this man to go to church early on the first Sabbath after Mrs Cameron arrived, to prevent any of his tenant- ry from occupying his seat, lest there might not be proper accom- modation for her. He stated to Dr Espie that she had the farms of Blacklaw and Roddenhead in her possession ; that she kept 8J0 LANARKSHIRE. COWS on BlAcklaw, and let the other farm ; that she was often a Tisitor at Whitemoss, sometimes at Torrance, and at Calder- wood; and that she was highly respected by the neigbbouriog gentry. He was at her funeral, and walked close after her bro- ther from the house to the grave. About twenty years ago, a te- nant of Blacklaw opened her grave, in the hope of 6nding gold rings on her fingers, but was disappointed. The place has sinee been known by the name of Mount Cameron. Long Calderwood, a place about a mile and a half to the nortli- east of the village of Kilbride, must always be peculiarly interesting to literary and scientific men, as having been the birth-place of Dr William Hunter, eminent both as a physician and as a scieo* tific inquirer ; and of his brother, Dr John Hunter, who^ having arrived at the bead of his profession in London, distii^isfaed himself so greatly both by his medical investigations and in other respects. Land-owmtrs. — The chief land*owners of the parish are. Miss Stuart of Torrance ; Lady Montgomeiy ; Sir William Alex- ander Maxwell of Calderwood ; and William Kippen, Esq. The nearest gentleman's seat to the village of Kilbride is that of Pa- trick Graham, Esq. of Limekilns ; but the greater part of bis property lies in other parishes. Property of considerable extent in point of valuation is also held in the parish of Kilbride by the Duke of Hamilton ; by Alexander Downie, Esq. of Crossbasket ; and by John Reid, Esq. of Kittochside. There are 18 proprie* tors, of whom each has land with above L. 100 Scots of valua* tion. There are about 110 who possess land ft> a greater or a less extent, or have such house property as to give them valuation. Parochial Registers. — The oldest parochial register extant bears to have been commenced on the 20th of March 168a The first register of a marriage is dated the 28th of that month, l^e first register of a birth is dated the 1st of April of the same yean The register has since been kept with tolerable regularity. Antiquities, — In the neighbourhood of Kittochside, there were two ancient fortifications, referred to by Mr Ure. They stood on two hills, now known by the names of Castlehill and Rough* hill. The former is on the north, and the latter to the south of the Kittoch; the distance between them is about 200 yards^ They have been so well described by Mr Ure^ that it is unne* tessary to say more here regarding them, than that since his time ibe Castlohill has been beautifully covered with trees, and that EAST KILBRIDE. 891 none of the stones remain on the top of the Rough bill. It is worth while, however, to mention a discovery which he made of a ceU or stone hatchet, lying not far from the ruins on the Rough- hill. It was formed of a coarse kind of ironstone; it was 6^ inches in length, and 3 in breadth at the face, but only 1 at the other end. The ruins of Mains Castle, once the extensive habitation of the rich and powerful families of the Cummins and the Lind* says of Dunrode, are about a mile to the north of the church and village. They remain much in the same state in which they were described by Mr Ure. The mansion-house or Castle of Lickprivick stood about a mile and a half to the south of the village. It was probably older than most other buildings known to have existed in the parish. About sixty years before Mr Ure's time, the whole of it was re- duced to ruins. When be surveyed the spot, nothing remained but some scattered rubbish. Even that last trace of it has now completely disappeared. But the artificial mound of earth, not far from the site of the building, still continues as a marked ob- ject, being 14 feet in height, square at the top, with each side measuring 12 yards. In 1793, the remains of a very large cairn, called Herlaw or Harelaw, were still to be seen on the farm of Rawhead, about the centre of the parish. The site of it is nearly a mile distant from the present farm of Harelaw. When Mr Ure wrote, some thou- sand cart loads of stones had at different times been taken from it, and some thousands then remained. The stones appeared to have been gathered from the land. Many urns with fragments of human bones were found in one corner of it, but none of them were preserved. It was about 12 feet in height, and covered a base of 70 feet in diameter. But its dimensions must have been much greater when it was entire. This cairn was entirely removed about the year 1808, and no distinct remains of it appear on the little mound of earth which was its base. The stones were used as materials in the erection of fences. The spot is now planted with trees, and two or three stones are lying imbedded in the grass, at what was formerly the centre of the pile. The remains of another cairn were to be seen in Mr Ure's time at Lawknowe, near Mains Castle. It has now entirely dis- appeared, and its site is occupied by a modern potato- house. 892 LANARKSHIRE. This cairn ^as peculiar, from having in the bottom a circle of large flags set on edge, not perpendicularly, but sloping a little outward. They were of a hard gritty schistus, found plentifully in the neighbourhood. It is to be regretted that Mr Ure's adTice has been neglected, that what still existed of this circle should be allowed to remain as an example of the peculiarity, which is very rare. Mansiou^Housesy Sfc. — There is no mansion-house in the pariA which is entirely modem, except that of Mr KLippen at Lawmuir. The greater part of Crossbasket House is modem. Calderwood House is now receiving an extensive imd most beautiful addition. Torrance House has been added to at different times. The old- est part is about 600 years old. It may here be noticed, that the property of Mains now belongs to the Torrance family, and that a stone having the arms of Scotland cut upon it, which was for- merly placed over a beautifully arched gate at the chief entry to Mains Castle, by the drawbridge, was, about 100 years ago^ transferred by Colonel Stuart to the front of Torrance Houses above the entrance. Limekilns House has also been gradually brought to its present skate by successive additions. The House of Kirktoun Holm, belonging to Sir Alexander Mootgomerie Cunningham, was a very elegant modem stmcture in the time of Mr Ure ; but it is not occupied as a family residence at the pre- sent day. Cleughern Lodge, belonging to Lady Montgomerie^ is a pleasant and convenient residence for shooting quarters. The new manse, with its offices, is a very el^ant modem building, as well as a most comfortable habitation, which does great credit at once to the taste and consideration of the heritors. It stands very conspicuously at the south-east end of the village, dose to the Strathavon road. III. — Population. The following table was taken by Mr Ure, from the session- books, and shows the number of baptisms registered at each of twelve separate dates from 1688 to 1790, inclusive. Yearly, xMales. Females. TouL 1688, 27 20 47 1689, 25 2*2 47 1700, 21 16 87 1710, 23 30 53 1720, 17 31 48 1740, • 26 30 56 1770, do 25 55 1780, 39 ^ 74 1785. 29 42 71 1788. 32 31 63 1789, 31 34 65 1790, 30 . , 32 • 62 EAST KlLBttmB. 893 No register of burials had then been kept in the parish, so that the difference between the births and the burials could not be as* certdned. No accurate calculation, moreoYer, can be instituted from the above table, as the children's names had not been uni- formly enrolled. The return of the population made to Dr Web- ster in 1755 was only 2029. Not very long before Mr Ure's time, the upper part of the parish was greatly depopulated by the accumulation of small farms into large ones. In 1793, he states that the parish was inhabited by 587 families, which contained 2359 persons, of whom 1065 were males; 1294 females; and 468 children under six years of age. He likewise mentions that the village of Kilbride consisted of 71 dwelling-houses, and was inhabited by 167 families, containing .524 individuals. Since 1793, a few additional limeworks, and the agricultural im- proYements, have probably contributed, in some small measure, to produce the increase of population which has taken place. In J 821, there were about 890 inhabitants in the village or town of Kilbride ; 225 in the village of Maxwellton ; about 30, who might be regarded as a village population, in Nerston ; about 50 of the same class in Jackton ; about 128 in the village of Busby, which belongs to East Kilbride, quoad civilia ; about 22 of a village po- pulation in Kittochside; about 40 of the same in Crossbill or Aldhouse quarter; and about 2100 of a rural population in the whole parish, quoad civilia. In 1836, there appear to have been about 960 persons resident in the village or town of Kilbride ; there were 267 in Maxwell- ton ; and about 2380 in the rest of the parish, quoad sacra^ that is, exclusive of the Busby quarter. The proportion between the vil- lage and the country part of the population cannot have been much altered since 1821, except as regards Kilbride and Maxwellton. Males. Fenaalet. Id 1821, there were 525 children under 5 yean of age, 414 between 5 and 10, 984 10 and 1^ 966 15 and 20, 650 20 and 30, 426 90 and 40, 289 40 and 50, 195 50 and 60, 161 60 and 70, 52 70 and 80, 22 80 an^ 90, 1 female between 90 and 100.* * I regret that my data are not such as to enable me to give an accurate statement of a simiwr kind, in regard to the present time. But, as the accuracy of tiie above may be relied on, it may, whea compared with the other data which I have furnish* 282 243 221 193 199 185 173 193 816 334 220 206 152 137 93 102 63 98 23 29 9 13 894 LANARKSHIRE. The yearly average of baptisms is not equal to thai of births, for some children have remained unbaptised. But I am unable to give a nearer approximation to the truth than what the following statement, regarding the baptisms, may afford. The average num- ber of baptisms yearly in the Established parish church for the last seven years, as per session-books, has been 53^ ; in the Belief church, as furnished from accurate lists, by the Rev. Mr Cameroo, exclusive of the children of persons not living io the parish, 44; total, 97 ^ It ought to be observed that, strictly speaking, a fevr more births should be added, besides the unbaptised, as several bom in Kit- bride have been baptised in Eaglesham. This remark applies principally to the Dissenters. It appears from a list kept by the grave-digger, v?bo is also church-officer, and a person who may be relied on for accuracy, that the yearly average number of burials in the parish church- yard for the last seven years has been 71. It appears from the parish register that the yearly average of marriages for the same time has been 29^. There are no nobility resident in the parish. There may be from half a dozen to a dozen persons of independent fortune. There are from 80 to 90 proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards. CharacteTy Sfc. of the People, — A considerable portion of the people are very poor. This is particularly the case in the village of Kilbride, where there is a number of weavers, but no regular manufactory to keep the people in employment. In the couLiry parts, the population are generally comfortable, industrious, con- tented, and influenced by the religious habits of their forefathers. There are many persons in the villages of most excellent character, both intellectually, morally, and religiously. Poaching in game, it is to be feared, prevails to a considerable extent. Smuggling used to be prevalent, but is not so now. There is no licensed pawnbroker, nor is there any reason to sup- pose that the system of pawn broking is carried on. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — A considerable portion of the upper and southern part of the parish has never yet been in tillage, but continues in a ed, as to the comparative state of the population in 1821 and 1836, be of some use in leading to an approximation to what is now the truth. It was made uit by the ichoohnaster in June 1821. EAST KILBRIDE. 895 mossy state. There can be no doubt that additions may hereafter be advantageously made to the cultivated land. There is not much undivided common in the parish. Planting of trees has not proceeded to any great extent in East Kilbride, except on the grounds of Torrance and Calderwood, and on the ground belonging to Glasgow College. Within the last two years, the College appears to have planted about Bfteen acres, and within twenty years previously, they must have planted from twenty to thirty acres. Mr Ure says it is a mistake to sup- pose that planting will not thrive in the cold climate of Kilbride, because every house almost, even in the most exposed situations, is surrounded with large trees, of various species. Bi;t then he mentions that considerable attention was paid to the raising of ihese trees. The soil was prepared by draining off the water. A handful of oats was thrown into the bottom of the hole dug for the young tree ; over these about an inch of good earth was laid ; upon this, the roots of the plant were carefully spread and cover^ ed up with the best mould that could be got ; and the plant se- cured from the cattle. The oats having come to a state of vege- tation, raised a proper degree of heat, and thereby made the plant fet forth with vigour. One cause, which has probably operated to prevent an increase of plantation in this parish, is the great subdivision of property that exists in it. This circumstance, ad'ded to the difficulties of the soil and climate, must have deterred the proprietors from at- tempting to surround their lands with any extent of wood. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre in East Kilbride cannot be more than L. I, 10s. The average rent of grazing for a single cow may be stated at from 1^3 to L.4 Sterling per annum, where the grazing is directly paid for by itself. But where the land is rented for the sake of grazing, as is generally the ease near the village of Kilbride, the expense may be reckoned to be about L. 5 for each cow. Rate of Wages. — The rate of payment for labour is about 10s. a-week in winter, and 12s. in sunmier. In some instances, the weekly wages of quarrymen may be a little higher. The half- yearly wages of farm-servants, in addition to their food, vary from L. 7 to L. 10 Sterling. I have obtained from a respectable dealer in Kilbride, a list of the medium prices at which he has bought different articles of produce in the parish during the last six years, which is as follows : 896 LANABK8H1BE. 1635, meiil at 86f. per load of 2^ cwt. ia%, do. 42b. do. 1837, do. 444. do. 1886» do. aSs. do. 1839, do. 42a. 6d. do. 1840. do. 40s. da 1835, cheese at 458. per cwt. of 1 12 lbs. 1836, do. d2a.6d. do. 1837. do. 508. do. 183H, do. 50s. do. 1839, do. 55s. do. 1840. do. 508. do. 1835, butter at lOd. per lb. 1836, do. lid. do. 1837, do. lOd. do. 1838, do. lid. do. 1830, do. lid. do. 1840, do. lid. do. 1835, poUtoes, 9s. per boll of 16 pecks. 1836» do. 168. do. 1837, poutoes, 9s. per boU of 16 peduu 1838, do. 16s. do. 1839, do. 14a. do. 1840, do. 16s. do. 1835, barley, best sort, at 2Qb. per evt. do. do. second do. IGs. do. do. do. third do. I2k do. 1836, barley at the same prices. 1837, barley, first, at 19s. per cwt. do. do. second, at 158. do. do. do. third, at 12b. 6d. do. 1838, barley, first, at 21s. per cwt. do. do. second, at 16a. do. do. do. third* at Ids. do. 1839, barley, first, at 218. per cwt. do. do. second, at 158. do. do. daw third, at 14s. do. 1840, barley, first, at 21s. do. do. do. second, at 16s. do. do. do. third, at 12s. dou The aboYe table may be relied upon as conveyiDg accurate in- formation. It gives the wholesale prices, and the person who drew it up keeps a general shop for selling these and other articles in retail He assures me that his purchases were made within the parish. ** Insurmountable obstacles," says Mr Ure, at the commence- ment of his fourth chapter, ^* both from the soil and climate, will always obstruct agricultural improvements in this parish." These insurmountable obstacles have, however, in the course of the last forty years, been surmounted in a great degree. I am informed that the effect of the improvements has been such as to make both seed-time and harvest earlier on an average than formerly. The extent to which the draining of land has advanced in East Kilbride, within the la.st twenty^ years, is highly creditable. . In- deed, sixty years ago, Mr Reid of Castlehill had set a praise- worthy example in this respect But it was not till vrithin the last fifteen years, that it was generally followed. At a period from twelve to fifteen years ago, the parish of Kilbride was found tak- ing the lead of all the neighbouring country m the improvement of land by draining. The exertions which its heritors and farmers then made, operated as an incitement to those of other parishes, to adopt a similar course. It may now be affirmed that, in most of the farms in the lower part of the parish, nearly the whole land has undergone the process. It is considered by competent judges here, that, in order to drain properly, there must be a fall of length in the drain for every square fall of ground that a field contains. Different opinions prevail among the farmers as to the best modes of draining. Some approve of fiirrow-draining9 while others prefer EAST KILBRIDE. 897 cross-draining. Tile-draining was not known in the parish till within the last five years. Most of the farmers still use stones. The expense of draining with stones; exclusive of horse labour, may be calculated at about L. 5 Sterling per acre. The whole expense, including horse labour, may be from L.9 to L. 12, according to4he distance from which materials must be brought. Although the ex« pense for the carriage of tiles is not so great, the difference in the price of the article must make tile-draining, on the whole, more costly. The price of tiles here is L. 1, 7s. 6d. per 1000. The improvement thus produced has, of course, increased the agricultural produce to a very great extent. The dairy produce, in particular, is at least four times as great as it was forty years ago. Special attention, indeed, had been paid to the management of milk cows even in Mr Ure's time. The breed was greatly im- proved, as he relates, in consequence of measures adopted more than eighty years ago, by an ancestor of Mr Graham of Limekilns. But the improved state of the land, accompanied by a more skil- ful treatment of this useful animal, have rendered her far more pro- fitable to the farmer, within the last twenty years, than she could have been previously. Twenty years ago, turnips were scarcely cultivated in East Kilbride at all. Mr Ure mentions that, in his time, a few trials had been made to raise this vegetable, but that, for want of success, the practice had been abandoned. At the present time, when the farmer, as is customary, lets out his cows to a cow-farmer or boUer, as he is called, it is usually part of the bar- gain, that the farmer shsill allow to the bouer, at the rate of about * an acre of turnips for ten cows, besides an allowance of about two bolls of beans for every cow. Large quantities of butter-milk are carried into Glasgow or Rutherglen every day in summer, and once or twice a week in winter, from not a few of the farms; while from almost all, one cart at least, is sent, bearing this commodity for sale, twice or thrice a week in summer, and less frequently in winter. In Mr Ure's time, the milk was, for the most part, made into sweet milk cheese. Each farm on an average produced about 100 stone weight yearly, and the annual product was about 11,100 stone weight., which at 7s. per stone, come nearly to L4000. By comparing this statement with the medium prices of cheese during the last six years, as already given, and by considering the amount of dairy produce to be now between four and five times as great as it was in 1793, some estimate may be formed of the pre- sent value of that produce. A great encouragement to improve 898 LANARKSHIRE^ the breed of cuttle has arisen from a cattle-sbow for the parishes of £aglesham, Meams, Carmunnock, Cambuslang, and East Kil<> bride, which was instituted in the year 1816, and is held an- nually at Kilbride on the second F'riday of June. The most common period for the duration of leases in this pa* rish is nineteen years. Several of the Torrance farms have re- cently been leased for twelve years. The state both of farm-build* ings and of enclosures has improved and is improving. QuarrieSj 4^ — There is an ironstone mine at Basket, which be- longs to Mr Dunlopof the Clyde Iron Works, while the surface is the property of Mr Downie of Crossbasket. There are freestone quarries at Lawmuir, Bogton, Benthall, and on a farm of Torrance near the village of Kilbride. Freestone is to be got in many other places. There are lime-works at Braehead, Limekilns, Thomtoa, Thornton Hall, and elsewhere. There are two tile-works in the pa* rish, — one at Springbank, about half a mile to the west of Kilbride ; the other at Millhouse, to the west of AuldhousCi and almost close to the parish of Eaglesham. There is abundance of clay in the pa- rish suited to the purpose of tile-making. Roman cement is found in various places, and is worked to a considerable extent V. — Parochial Economy. By the grant in Queen Anne's reign, constituting the village of Kilbride a burgh of barony, the inhabitants ¥^re empowered to hold a weekly market on Tuesday, besides four fairs in the year* The market-day had ceased to be observed in Mr Ure's time, but the fairs were then tolerably well frequented. At a subsequent period only two fairs appear to have been kept, one which was held in November on the Tuesday after Rutherglen fair, but has now gone into disuse, and another, which is still held, in June, on the same day with the cattle-show. Both were for the sale of homed cattle and sheep. Besides the town or village of Kilbride and the village of Max- wellton, the parish may be said to contain five other small villages, viz. Aldhouse, including Crossbill, about the centre; Jackton, about a mile from the western side on the road to Eaglesham ; Braehead, at the north-western corner ; Kittochside, about a mile to the east of Braehead ; and Nerston, about a mile and a half; as the crow flies, from the north-eastern comer. Maxwelltown is not much more than half a mile distant to the east of Kilbride. . Means of Communication. — There is a post-office in Kilbride connected with Glasgow. There is one public coach which passes 3 EAST KILBRIDE. 899 through Kilbride from Glasgow to Strathavon. There is a good bridge, leading out of the parish into Glassford, over the Calder, where that river divides the Torrance property from Crutherland, the seat of John Smith, Esq. This bridge has been greatly im- proved within the last year. There are three turnpike roads, of which one is the Glasgow and Strathavon road. Another leads from Kilbride to Eaglesham, and a third completes the communi- cation between Kilbride and Busby and Carmunnock. The pa- rish roads are kept in excellent order. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is in the village of Kil- bride, and is as conveniently situated for the population as the cir- cumstances of so extensive a parish will admit of. It is nearly eight miles distant from the southern extremity ; about three miles and a half from the western ; about two miles and a half from the northern ; and about three miles from the eastern. It was built in 1774, and received a new roof and other repairs in 1838. If it were fully seated it might afford about 1200 sittings, but it can only at present accommodate about 900 persons. The manse was built in 1836 and^l8d7. The glebe contains about 5 acres, and is worth nearly L.20 a year. The stipend consists of nine chal- ders of meal and nine of barley, besides L.10 for communion ele- ments. During the present year a missionary is placed in the Aklhouse quarter, whose salary is paid by a subscription from some of the heritors and myself. There is a church in Kilbride con- nected with the Relief body. A Methodist chapel has also been established. The stipend of the Relief minister is about L.120 yearly, paid by the congregation, in addition to a free-house and garden. In 1836, there were about 1962 persons professing to belong to the Established Church ; 1359 belonging to the Re- lief; 115 of the Reformed Presbyterian persuasion; 94 of the United Secession ; and 76 Roman Catholics. The average num- ber of communicants in the Established Church is about 500. There is a Tract Society in the parish, in which both churchmen and Dissenters join, and in connection with which there is a monthly prayer meeting. Education, — There are two district parochial schools besides the principal one at Kilbride. One of these is at Aldhouse, and the other at Jackton. There is a very excellent school in Maxwell- ton, supported by the liberality of Sir William Maxwell, and there is an unendowed school in Kilbride. In all these schools, the or- dinary branches are taught Some of the modern improvements 900 LANARKSHIRE. have been introduced, with great advantage, into Sir William Maxwell's school. The parochial teacher at Kilbride has the maximum salary of L.84. The other parochial teachers have about L.8 of salary each, the one at Aldhouse having the advan- tage of a free house provided by voluntary liberality. Sir William Maxwell allows a liberal salary to the teacher of his school. Libraries. — There are two libraries in the parbh, — one a parish library, and the other a subscription library. Poor, — The average number of poor yearly on the permanent roll for the years 1835-36-37, was 32 ; jiot on the permanent roll, IS. An assessment for support of the poor was first imposed in 1800. Average amount yearly of church collections for the above years, L. 20. Average amount yearly of assessments for these years, L.142 ; ditto of mortifications, mortcloth dues, &c. L.18L Friendly Soeieties.'-^TheTe are four Friendly Societies, whidi have been of great advantage. Saving/ Bank. — A savings' bank was instituted a few years ago in connection with the Glasgow National Security Savings BanL It still subsists. Inns. — There are 19 inns and public-houses in the parish, the number of which is unquestionably prejudicial to the morals of the people* Fuel. — Ck>al is to be found in East Kilbride, but not of Uie best quality. A great deal is brought froin Hamilton and Cambuslang. Peats are to be found in abundance, and are much used. The ex- pense of the inferior coal found in the parish or close to it is, in- cluding cartage to the village of Kilbride, at an average of 48. 6d. per 12 cwt. The expense of the coal from Cambuslang, when brought to Kilbride, is Ss. 8d. per 16 cwt December 1640. SUPPLEMENT TO THE ARTICLE « GLASGOW."* The Presbytery of Glasgow, considering it desirable that further information should be afforded respecting the great moral and re- ligious undertakings in which the friends of the Established Church in Glasgow are engaged, than is afforded in the foregoing Ac- count of Glasgow, appointed a committee of their number to draw up a statement on the subject The following is the result of their inquiries : — Protestant Association. — Impressed with the dangers of Popery arising from the accession of Roman Catholics to power in the Le- gislature of the country, — the manner in which that power is exert- ed, — the zealous efforts made by the Church of Rome to regain her ascendency, — the loose notions of religious principle unhappily prevalent among a large body of Protestants, — and the magnitude of the Roman Catholic population in Glasgow, — a number of mi- nisters and laymen formed themselves, in October 1835, into an Association for the purpose, by public meetings and the press, of exposing the errors and pernicious tendency of the Popish system, — extensively diffusing information respecting the character and history of the church of Rome, and arousing Protestants to the duties to which they are specially called. To guard against mis- apprehension, and at the same time better describe their object, they included the following resolution among the fundamental principles of the society : — ^^ That this Association disclaims all identity with party names and party interests, and presents a centre of unity to as many as prefer the welfare of Protestantism to the objects of political fac- tion, and desire to preserve that Protestant character of the con- stitution which has been recognized by Great Britain since the period of the Reformation." In furtherance of these important objects, the Association has held numerous and influential meetings, and, with the assist- ance of eminent ministers, and others from England and Ireland, made fearful disclosures of the working of the ** mystery of iniqui- ty" in modern times. In addition to the publication of the pro- • Drawn up by the Rev. John G. Loriincr of St David's Parish, Glasgow. LANARK. 3 M 902 SUPPLEMENT TO THE ceedings and speeches at these meetings, the Association has print- ed pamphlets, lectures, and tracts, to the extent of 85,000. Two courses of lectures were delivered at their request in successive years, 1886 and 1837, by some of the ministers of Glasgow, and have been subsequently published. The attendance at these lectures was large, while the audience, manifested the deepest interest; and since their publication, they have been extensively sold and widely circulated.* In connection with the labours of the Protestant Association, the results of an important inquiry as to the number of Roman Catholics within the bounds of the Presbytery may be mentioned. In the article Glasgow, Dr Cleland states the number of Roman Catholics in the city at 26,965. This was for the year 1 831. In a paper given in to the British Association for the advancement of Science in 1836, he states the number at 46,238. Both numbers are founded not upon actual enumeration, but upon a conjectural estimate by the Roman Catholic priests, from the number of their baptisms. The Presbytery appointed a commit, tee of inquiry, and from returns communicated to them, not only by the parochial ministers of the city, but all the parochial minis- ters of the Presbytery, and these founded on actual enumeration, with a view to the investigations of the Royal Commission on Re- ligious Instruction, it appears that the whole number of Roman Catholics within the bounds of the Presbytery amounts only to 19,484. Allowing for two small districts unreported, it may be safe- ly said that, in a population of 270,000, the Roman Catholic popu- lation does not exceed 20,000. This is a very important result, as to the accuracy of which there can be no question. It is remarkably • The following is a list of the publications of the Protc&tant Association : - No. I. The Theology of Peter Dens, with all its immoral and persecuting prin- ciples, proved to be the text-book of the present Roman Catholic Priesthood of Ire- land ; by the Rev. J. G. I.orinier, minister of St David's Parish. No. 11. Ireland— Popery and Prit»stcrafi, the cause of her misery and crime; br J. C. Colquhoun, Ksij. of Killermont. ' * No. 111. Po])ery in Ireland, a Persecutor, or the Theology of Peter Dens illus- trated by examples; by the Rev. John G. Ixirimer of St David's Parish. No. IV. Popery unchanged— the creed of Pope Pius IV. still the creed of tbc Church of Rome; by the llev. James Flenderson, D.D., of St Enoch's Parish. No. V. Tlie Dangerous Nature of Popery,— the substance of a speech • bv ihc Rev. N. Paterson, D.D., of St Andrew's Parish. ' ' No. VI. Ireland,— the Policy of retlucinj? the Established Church, and tvivinc the Roman Catholic Priests; by J. C. Colquhoun, Ks<|. of Killermont. * ' ^ No. VII. On the Grant to Maynooth College ; by J. C. Cohiuhoun, Esq. uf Killermont. =• . i » i 'i'he services of Mr Colquhoun in this cause have been of the most able, enli«^t. eneil, and (hsuiterested character. ARTICLE GLASGOW. 903 confirmed from other sources of information. The Religious In- struction Commissioners, (at page 15 of their Second Report,) state, on the authority of Dissenting as well as Church Establishment inquiries, that, in a population of about 140,000, the whole Ro- man Catholics were 15,171, while before the same commission the Roman Catholics rated their number at 50,000. It cannot be doubted that, had they extended their inquiries so as to embrace the country parishes, where the Roman Catholics are very few, they would have arrived at the same conclusion with the committee of Presbytery. The investigations of the Commissioners at Greenock brought out a similar result. The Romish priests, by calculations connected with baptisms, had made an extravagant estimate of the population under their superintendence. The Dissenters of Greenock, by enumeration, reduced it nearly one-half, viz« from 4000 to 2282. It would seem that, to swell their numbers, is part of the syste- matic policy of the Romish priesthood ; a policy against which it is the duty of Protestants to be on their guard. Large and af« fecting as is the Roman Catholic population in Glasgow and its yicinity, a population which the cheap facilities of communication with Ireland, and the demand for labour in a manufacturing com* munity creates, it is not perhaps greater than might have been expected. At least it is satisfactory to b^ informed by the Com- mittee of Presbytery, that, " so far as they can judge from their own knowledge, and the returns submitted to them, there does not seem to be any increase of Popery from proselytism deserving the name. Intermarriage may occasionally add an ignorant so-called Protestant to the communion of the Romish Church, but the great source of increase is by immigration from Ireland.^' Warmly as the ministers and members generally of the Esta* blished Church in Glasgow feel upon the subject of Popery, and vi- gorously as they have employed means to expose the errors and cor- ruptions of the Church of Rome, it is scarcely necessary to remark, that they have never been wanting in kindness to the poor delud- ed Roman Catholics themselves. They have practically shown, that it is quite a possible thing to denounce the fatal errors and pernicious operation of a man's creed, and at the same time to ma- nifest the truest benevolence in promoting his temporal and spi- ritual good. One or two facts illustrative of this may be ap- pealed to. While the Roman Catholic population of Glasgow forms only some twelfth part of the whole population, Dr Cowan, 904 SUPPLEMENT TO THE in his interesting Statistics of Fever, proves that nearly one- third of the fever patients under his hospital charge are Irish, who may be safely set down as in almost all cases Roman Ca- tholics. A public collection was called for a few years- ago in all churches, Established and Dissenting^ throughout the city, to meet the expense incurred by the increase of fever. In 28 churches of the Establishment, collections were forthwith made, amounting to nearly L.600. Four Dissenting congregations hold- ing Church Establishment principles contributed L.i65, Ids. 6d.; eight Dissenting congregations not holding these principles, con- tributed L.161, 10s. ; and the Roman Catholics themselves by an oratorio, raised L.41, 17s. 6d. Such was the manner, and the proportions in which the general sum was contributed to the funds of the Royal InBrmary, and from it one may gather whether hatred to Popery be inconsistent with sympathy and affection for Roman Catholics. An important fact, admitting of a similar inter- pretation, is stated by Henry Paul, Esq. in his valuable Mortality Bill of Glasgow for 1837. In the twenty-fifth table he gives the amount of unemployed male operatives in Glasgow during the summer months of that year, who applied for relief out of the fund subscribed for the purpose, and obtained employment. Of these there were 1920 Scotch and 1103 Irish. There can be little question that the vast majority of the latter were Roman Catho- lics, and yet they were relieved by the charity and kindness, in a chief degree, of churchmen, in such a ratio as nearly two Irish for every three Scotch applicants. It may be added, that, in a general collection in 1838, for a Board of Health, in the benefits of which the Roman Catholic population largely share, it was stated on good authority, that out of L.1000 collected. Lb 700 were contributed by the Established Church. From these facts the reader may see how false is the inference, that opposition to Popery is associated with any indifference to the temporal welfare of its adherents. The kindness of the Established Church te the Roman Catholic population is the more worthy of notice, when it is remembered that that population are strongly opposed to those principles, civil and religious, which churchmen generally entertain and revere. Society for Erectitiff Additional Parochial Churches in Glasgow and Suburbs. — Though the Church of Scotland can scarcely ever be said to have been altogether insensible to the obligation of ex- tending her boundaries, so as to comprehend the people within the ARTICLIi GLASGOW. 905 pale of Divine ordinances — though during the earlier period of her history she was remarkable for her efforts in the cause of Church Extension, and so recently as 1818 applied to the Legislature for an enlargement of the number of churches in the Highlandsand Islands, — an application which issued in the erection of the forty-three Parlia- mentary churches, — still the provision which was made in the large towns and populous districts of the Lowlands, where made atall, was miserably inadequate. This led to the building of Chapels of Ease, which, though labouring under many disadvantages, it cannot be doubted have, under God, been the means of instructing and keeping many thousands within the pale of the Church, who otherwise would have been driven beyond her boundaries, or sunk into Heathenism. To their honour also let it be recorded, that they have rendered an important service to the cause of the poor, to which Dissenting chapels, in general, cannot lay claim. As a spe- cimen it may be mentioned, that the Calton Chapel of Ease, now the Mid Calton Church, from its opening in 1793, to January 1888, contributed not less than L.dd97, 17s. d^d. to the poor; the chapel in Anderston, now Anderston Church, from 1801, not less than L.3535 ; the Gaelic Church, Duke Street, L.3000 ; Al- bion Church, L.7000; St Columba Gaelic, L.1200. Had these collections been regularly paid into the bank as they were received, of course the sum would have been a very large one at the present day. In the case of Calton, for in- stance, at simple interest, it would have been L. 8659, 17s. 3jd., at compound, L. 15,359, lis. 3|d., and in the other cases in a similar proportion ; but neither the Church courts nor the cbapels contended for such an application.* They preferred as much as possible to keep up the old Scriptural habit of Scotland, viz, of contributing for the support of the poor on the Lord's Day. The increase of assessments for the poor, and the more pressing claims of their spiritual necessities, and the absence of a state endowment, may now render a different application of the col- * From the opening of the parish church of St Joho^ in 1819, under Dr Chalmers, doim to September 1837, there was a sum raised by collectitms for the support of the poor amounting to L.7752, lis. 44d. The city was thus saved an assessment for the poor to a similar extent ; and I am informed by one of the ciders, William Buchan- an, Esq., who has devoted much attention to the subject, that the kirk- session and court of deacons of St John*s, have in all saved to the city of Glasgow, in support of paupers, lunatics, orphans, foundlings, &c. upwards of L.9800. It appears from Dr Cleland's statement that the city churches, by ordinary collections, &c. raise L.2000 a year, which to the same extent diminishes the assessment. Owing to the multi- plication of places of worship, and the progress of the assessment deadening the dis- position to give at the church door, the sum, it is believed, is now considerably less. 90(1 SUPPLEMENT TO THE lections in many cases necessary. This is an unhappy state of things, which, it is hoped, will only be temporary. But no change can obliterate the interesting and important fact, that the Chapels of Ease of Glasgow, hardly as' sometimes they may have been dealt with, were the means of saving to the general community a very large sum of money through many years. Let none thought- lessly say that this would not have been a bad mode of endow- ment The collections might have been so applied ; but not only would this have been destructive of the old and excellent practice already referred to, but it could only have procured an endowmeot for a very few places of worship. To keep pace with the wants of the people, such a number of chapels must have been built, and let at so low a rate for the working-classes, as would have divided and frittered away the collections, and made them altogether in- adequate as a source of endowment. It is the small number of the Chapels of Ease, and so their ability to gather a richer chss of society within their walls, which renders their collections so con- siderable as they are. In short, the success of the Chapels of Ease in collecting for the poor is a previous and indirect proof of the fact, that thousands and tens of thousands of persons are growing up, in the meantime, utter strangers to the ordinances of religion. Even in the most favourable circumstances, the chapels soon reached their limit, and that is a limit which leaves vast multitudes utterly unprovided with the means of grace and salvation. Deeply impressed with the wide-spread and growing destitution in Glas- gow, a number of enlightened and generous Christian men formed themselves into a society, for building twenty additional churches in the city and its vicinity, in connection with the Establishment, in five years. The principles of the society and corresponding re- gulations are such as to restore the parochial system to its original efficiency, — breaking down large parishes to a manageable size,— giving a preference in seat-letting to the parishioners, — and pro- viding that the price of a large number of the sittings shall be so low as to render them accessible to the poor and working-classes. Under the blessing of the great Head of the Church, the under- * taking was cordially entered into, and in less than a year L.21,400 were subscribed, by 140 persons, chiefly in subscriptions of L,100 and L.200, payable in five instalments. Before proceeding to describe the operations of the Society, it may not be unsuitable to present the reader with a picture of the ARTICLE GLASGOW. 907 religious destitution of Glasgow. We extract the following im- pressive summary from the Annual Report of 1886, simply pre- mising, that it is founded upon unexceptionable returns laid before the Royal Commissioners of Religious Instruction by the paro- chial ministers. It is also to be remembered, that the whole po- pulation is estimated, agreeably to the Mortality Bill, at 244,000, and that* the proportion of persons who are in circumstances to be attending on Divine worship at the same time, is rated at 60 in the 100. Law professes to provide only for 44 in the 100. Facts would warrant a higher number than either. But to avoid every- thing like straining in so melancholy a case, 60 per cent is as- sumed. The statement is from the pen of an indefatigable and enlightened friend of Church Extension, William Collins, Esq. ^^ First. In Glasgow and suburbs there are no fewer than 85, 105 persons capable of attending church, who have not a sitting in any place of worship. Established or Dissenting, of any denomination whatever. As only three-fifths of the population are assumed to be capable of attending church, the. above 85,105 who are desti- tute of sittings represent a population of 141,841, which is greatly more than one-half of the whole population. ** Second. Independently of the vast mass of families that are inadequately supplied — having only one or perhaps two sittings, when they ought to possess four or five — there are no fewer than \Qf004 /amiliesj no member of which has a sitting in any place of worship. Established or Dissenting, of any denomination what- ever. These families alone, according to the average number of persons in a family, represent a destitute population of 85,519 persons, entirely dissociated from the ordinances of Christianity. ^^ Third. Since the census of 1821, the population of Glasgow and suburbs has increased 88,000 souls, for whom there ought to have been provided 52,800 sittings, but for whom there only have been provided 19,547 sittings in all Established and Dissenting churches whatever, leaving unprovided of the mere increase of the population, during that period alone, no fewer than 33,253 souls, 80 rapidly is the increase of the population outrunning the provi- sion that is made for their church accommodation. ^^ We shall now advert to three corresponding facts, which will present the destitution to your notice in a still more palpable and afibcting form. " First. The number of the population at present destitute of church accommodation in Glasgow and suburbs is nearly as great 908 SUPPLEMENT TO THE as the whole population of Glasgow and suburbs was in the year 1820. In 1820 the population was 142,445, and the proportion of sittings which these would require, is 85,467 ; but the nnmber of the population, at present, who ought to possess sittings, but who are entirely destitute of them, is 85,105, and these in the same proportion represent a population of 141,841. Thus die number of the population at present destitute is within 604 of the whole population in the year 1820. Sixteen brief years have but run their course since that period, and yet the number of the po- pulation destitute is nearly as great as if, in the year 1820, there had not been an Established or Dissenting church, of any denomina- tion whatever, in our city. And what would have been said of our great city therit if not a church of any kind had existed among us? and yet the number of the destitute population now is nearly as great as if such had actually been the case. *^ Second. The number of entire families, no member of which possesses a sitting in any place of worship, either Established or Dissenting, is greater than was the whole number of families io Glasgow and suburbs in the beginning of the present century. The whole number of families in Glasgow and suburbs in the year 1800, was 17,173, and these represented a population of 81,575; but the number of families entirely destitute of church accommo- dation now is 16,004, and these, according to the same average of members in a family, represent a population of 85,519. Thus the number of families at present entirely destitute of all church ac- commodation whatever, exceeds by 831 the whole number of fa- milies in the year ] 800. And these, let it never be forgotten, form only a portion of the present destitution, and are altogether independent of the vast mass of families who are but inadequately supplied. The present century has not nearly half run its course, and yet the number of families alone who do not possess sittings in any church whatever, is greater than if, in the year 1800, not a fa- mily in our great city had possessed sittings in any Established or Dissenting church whatever. And what, we again ask, would have been said of our great city then^ if not a family in it had pos- sessed a single sitting in any place of worship ? and yet the number of families nowj entirely destitute, is greater than if such had actually been the case. *^ Third. The Glasgow Church-Building Society commenced their operations in the beginning of the year 1884, and though the three years which have elapsed since that period, down to the ARTICLE GLASGOW. 909 close of the year 1836, has been a period of signal beneficence and of unusual exertion for increasing the church accommodation of our city, yet it is a striking and no less deeply affecting fact, that, with the combined efforts of our Society and the Dissenters of all denominations, we have not been able to provide church ac- commodation for one-half of the increase of the population, since our Society commenced their labours in 1834. From the 1st of January 1834, to the 2d of January 1837, it is supposed that the population of Glasgow and suburbs have increased 24,000 souls. For these, 14,400 sittings would have been required, and yet the whole additional churches which have been opened during that pe- riod, connected both with the Establishment and Dissenters, con- tain only 6562 sittings, leaving a deficiency of church accommo- dation for the mere increase of the population of no fewer than 7838 sittings. Thus, though 6562 of the increase of the popula- tion have, during that period, been provided for, 7838 of that in- crease have been left unprovided for, and this with the efforts of the Establishment and Dissenters combined. And thus, great as was the spiritual destitution of our city before we commenced our labours, the close of every year finds it greater than before." The Religious Instruction Commissioners, describing the condi- tion of a population only of 213,000, record at page 32 of their report on Glasgow as the result of their investigations, *^ that a very large number of persons, upwards of 66,000, exclusive of children under ten years of age, are not in the habit of attending public worship ;" and again, ** after making allowance for old and in6rm persons, and those who may be necessarily absent, that number cannot be stated at less than 55,000. Such is a brief outline of the religious destitution of Glasgow, and what can be conceived more appalling. The moral results are just of such a cha- racter as every believer in the efficacy of Christian instruction would anticipate. Intemperance and Sabbath profanation are fearfully prevalent. Pauperism is steadily increasing, and disease and mor- tality are following in their train. Within the last twenty years^ the population of Glasgow has almost doubled ; but crime, instead of merely doubling, has, as is proved from the records of the Court of Justiciary, increased nearly eight times. And while during ten of these years, the whole addition which was made to the church accom- modation of the community was only about 1000 sittings, in the meantime, the population increased 64,000 ; a number which is itself equal to the population of a large town, not to speak of seve- 910 SUPPLEMENT TO THE ral counties. A few years ago, some very important facts relative to crime were brought before the town-council of the city by one of their number, Hugh Tennent, Esq. His care and intelligence are indisputable, and yet he has supplied us with such information as the following : The criminal establishments of Glasgow cost originally L. 95,000. Their annual expense is L. 28,385. The increased expense of crime during the last four years is L. 1279 per annum. Pauperism costs L. 18,000 a year. What a contrast to the days of Dr Benyon, the friend of Matthew Henry, who sojourned in the city in 1703, and of whom Henry pleasantly relates, that " he ob- served to his great satisfaction that all the while he was in Glas- gow, though he lay in a public inn, he never saw any drunk, nor heard any swear. Nay, he observed, that in all the inns of the road to that part of Scotland where he lay, though some of them mean, they had family worship performed morning and evening; from which, and other remarks made in that journey, he inferred, that practical religion doth not depend on worldly wealth, for where he had seen the marks of poverty, there he had seen withal the marks of piety." These were the days of a missionary spirit and wide-spread church extension ; — days in which the parochial system was yet in its entireness and strength. It is time to return to the Church-Building Society, and to re- late what it has been able to accomplish in the way of meeting the fearful destitution afid accompanying immorality and crime which have been unfolded. It has been honoured to erect thirteen churches, viz. St Stephen's, St Mark's, St Peter's, the Bridegate, St Luke's, Bridgeton, Camlachie, Chalmers's Church, Wellpark, Hutchesontown, Martyrs, St Matthew's, Brownfield. Others, such as Milton, Brown Bold, Kingston, have been built by private par- ties ; but are placed under all the important regulations of the churches of the Church-Building Society. The last erection is in token of respect to the Rev. Mr Gibson, for his valuable services to the Church of Scotland in the recent^ Church Establishment controversy. Several additional churches are in the course of erec* tion, and it is expected will ere long be opened. These are Green- head and Lauriston. In addition to these, important steps have been taken by the Society towards the erection of other churches. In this account of new churches we do not include several in the neighbourhood of Glasgow, which are already open, and promise to be most useful, such as the new churches at Kirkintilloch, Par- tick, and Rutherglen. Banton, in the parish of Kilsyth, is now 4 ARTICLE GLASGOW. 911 opened; and Strathbungo and Springburn are in the course of erection. We now give a list of the new churches within the bounds of the Presbytery, combining with them an enumeration of the old unendowed churches or former chapels of ease, with their re- spective ministers, as they stand in December 1840 : — Former CHAriLs or £as*. Albion Street Church, Archibald Nisbett Anderston, Alexander Sommerville. Middle Calton, Matthew Graham. Shettlestone, John Thomson. Kirk field, J. R. Anderson St Columba, (Gaelic), Nor. M*Leod, D.D. Duke Street, (Gaelic), Lewis Rose. Hope Street, (Gaelic), Hector M'Neil. Chryston, James Young, A. M. St George*s-in.the- Fields, P. Napier. St Thomas, Joseph Sommerville ; Wil- liam Hunter, A. and S. Maryhill, R. M'Nair Wilson. New Extension Churches. St Stephen*s, Andrew King. St Mark's, Walter M'Gilvray. St Peter's, William Arnot. Bridg^ate, Daniel Cameron. St Luke's, J. C. Fowler. Bridgeton. Camlachie, W. Eason. Chalmers's, J. Smith. Wellpark, J. Smith. . Hutchesontown, A. S. Patterson. Martyr's, D. Menzies. St Matthew's, P. M'Morland. Milton. Brownfield, J. Reid. Kingston, J. Gibson, A.M. Partick, Robert Pasley. Rutherglen, James Munro. St David's, Kirkintilloch, Thomas Dun- can. Banton, Kilsyth, John Lyon. Churches op the Original Secession which have joined the Establishment. Renfield Street Church, Dr Willis. East Cumbernauld, John Cochrane. The far larger part (about 1000 souls,) Campbell Street Congreg. P. Currie. Though the new churches have been in operation but for a very short time, and though the work in which their ministers and ses- sions are engaged be a very arduous one, yet it is most gratifying to be able testate that they are succeeding to an extent beyond what the most sanguine could have expected. This is matter of devout thankfulness to the great Head of the Church. Restricting our- selves to the twelve churches which may be said to remain under the care ofthe Society, whose proceedings we are now recording, and which may be said to contain 1000 sittings each, it appears, on of* ficial authority, that, in November 1840, there were not less than 7630 sittings let. The congregational attendance, of course, is very much larger than this number describes. At the same period, the communicants in these churches amounted to not less than 4367, — many of them being persons who had not made any pub- lic profession of religion for years ; who may be said to have been reclaimed from ignorance and indifference. At one communion season, 231 were admitted to the Lord's table for the first time. During the last year there was an increase of 578 communicants 912 SUPPLEMENT TO THE in the twelve churches to which we refer — a number itself constitut- ing a good congregation^ without taking into account the other new churches, which are not less prosperous. It is important to state, that, in the face of this large increase in the new churches, there has not been any very serious diminution in the old. Any f&Uing off during late years, in that part of the city revenue which is derived from the seat-rents, may be explained from other causes, such as the depression of trade, and the growing unwillingness of the people to pay the high seat-rents which are charged. This latter circumstance leads to the occupation of a greater number of sittings than are paid for. But the interesting fact is, that, at the communion seasons, the old churches have much the same number of communicants as before. A few of them may have experienced a diminution, but others have gained an increase ; while the new churches have made such important and substantial progress as has been describ- ed. Church communion, not seat-letting, is the true indication and test of the strength of a Christian church. It may be noticed, as one useful result of the operation of the new churches, that they will bring down the price of sittings in the old, and so make them more accessible to the humbler classes of society. This part of the working is only begun, but it will extend more and more, and most will believe that, as at present, while the old city churches are charged 10s. or lis. as the average^riced sitting over their whole church accommodation, there is ample room for change. Indeed, we are sure we do but express the sentiments of the Presbytery of Glasgow, and of the church at large, when we condemn the system of seat-rents in endowed churches, whether in town or country, as inconsistent with the sound principles of an establishment, and most injurious, in its practical operation, to the moral and religious interests of a very large body of the people. Encouraging as is the progress which has been made, it must be remembered how awful is the religious destitution which has been unveiled, and that the population of Glasgow is run- ning on, according to the mortality bill, at an increase of 9000 a year, and that the raising up and maintenance of additional churches must become more and more arduous with the progress of the undertaking, exhausting, as it will do, the class of people who are most able and willing to join in supporting them. When these things are considered, all who think calmly and imparlially ARTICLE GLASGOW. 913 m on the subject must see that no adequate remedy can be applied to the vast moral evils of society without such assistance from the State, — a party most deeply interested in the question, — as shall bring the means of instruction, surely, immediately, and permanently within the reach of the ignorant and the perishing. It is plain, apart alto- gether from the sacred religious duty of the State, that private libe- rality can never master the difficulties of the case. What can be expected more generous than the doings of Glasgow ? Nearly L.45,000 will have been raised and expended for Church Exten- sion from the outset of the society up to next year, by which time seventeen churches, with church accommodation for 17,000 per- sons, will have been completed.^ But what is all this to the magni- tude of the work which has yet to be overtaken, and where is the wealth in other parts of Scotland to do as much, however great- ly needed ? Dr Cleland has very properly, in the article Glas- gow, (page 185,) referred to the sums annually raised in Glas- gow for religious objects, and the sum of L.30,000 looks well ; but the statement is open to misapprehension. Two-thirds of it (the L.21,400 of the Church Building Society) is not an an- nual sum. It is spread over five years. Deductions to the extent also of L.1200 must be made from this list for objects not so much religious as humane, and lea\ing out the church building annual sum, what have we for 28 religious societies in the great city of Glasgow but the sum of L.7440 ? — a sum, be it re- membered, raised by a very small number of individuals ; for they who give to one religious object generally give to another. It is true that much more than this sum would intimate, is contributed for religious purposes. Four of the schemes of the General Assembly^ for which there are annual collections, and which may amount together to I.. 1400 or L.1600 a year, are not included, nor is the cost of the parochial missions, local Sabbath-schools, &c. in the Establishment, nor the contributions of Dissenters to their own special religious objects, embraced. Still it is an important fact, that the Christians of Glasgow, by associated effort through not less than 28 different channels, raise for the cause of Christ * In addition to the yearly instalment ofthe Society, the congregations of St John's, St George's, St Enoch's, St Paul's, St James's, the Tron, and St David's raised lately by subscription to the Society's funds about L.6000. It is worthy of record, that all the chufches, with the exception of one having L.400 on it, are free of debt, and are the free gift of good men to the poor. No pecuniary return is expected or desired. 914 SUPPLEMENT TO THE at home and abroad little more than L.7000 a year, and that this is done to a great extent by the same individuals. Such is the achievement of a city which collected of revenue at the Custom- House in 1837 the sum of L.d94,144; and is, then, such Christ* ian liberality as has been described, most praiseworthy as it is, a principle of sufficient stren^h and fulness, upon which one may« with a clear conscience, peril the temporal and spiritual interests of thousands and tens of thousands of his fellow-men and fellow- citizens ? Do the doings of the past promise that the private li- berality of the future willl be ample enough ? According to the Mortality Bill, lately published, the!population of Glasgow is 273^000. The Religious Instruction Commissioners repovted only on 2I89OOO. The Glasgow Educational Society. — As an example of the mi- serable destitution as to education into which some parishes have fallen, it may be noticed, that in a part of the overgrown Barony Parish (now constituting the new parish of St Luke's,) there were a few years ago, in a population of 2400, not less than 592 young persons between the ages of six and thirteen, and of these only 99 were attending any day-schools. The evil is now remedied by the establishment of a school, which will be afterwards noticed. Over Glasgow as a whole, as nearly as can be calculated, not above a fourteenth part of the population is at school. To* insure a good education there should be a sixth. From the Government Summary of Education Returns in 1833-1834, it would seem that an eleventh part of the population of Scotland is at school. This would prove Glasgow to be worse provided than not a few parts of the country. For many years, good men in the city, and par- ticularly the kirk-sessions of the Established Church, have devoted a considerable share of their attention to the education of the poorer classes of society. Several large charity schools have been endowed by the bequests of churchmen, and are under the ma- nagement of the ministers and elders. In some cases, the magis- trates and town-council are joined with them in the direction. Still it was felt, that not only was an increased number of schools neces- sary, but schools of an improved quality. In 1829, the in&nt school system was introduced, and a model school established^ but the interest soon declined. As the system was then conducted, the merely intellectual greatly predominated over the moral and reli- gious, and this teaching wants stability. There was no small danger ARTICLE GLASGOW. 915 of the infant school perishing altogether. At this crisis, several of the parochial congregations stepped forward and established four or live infant schools ; and while as careful as ever to culti- vate and train the mind, they made Scriptural principle, spirit, and habit predominant and all-pervading. This was attended with good, but the public interest could not be sustained in behalf of infant schools, and many of them after a season were discontinued. In 1834, the Educational Society, which might be said to have begun with the introduction of infant schools, was ; revised and reor- ganized. It consists of persons attached to the principles of a national religious establishment of the truth, and approvingof a con- nection between the parochial schools and the national church. Its present objects are, to obtain and diffuse information regarding the contmon schools of our own and other countries — their excellencies and defects ; to awaken our countrymen to the educational wants of Scotland ; to solicit Parliamentary inquiry and aid in behalf of the extension and improvement of the parochial schools, — and, in particular, to establish a Normal seminary in connection with our parochial institutions for the instruction of teachers in the most improved methods of intellectual and moral training, so that the schoolmasters may enjoy a regular professional education. Per- ceiving the great advantage of the moral training in the infant schools, and, persuaded of its applicability to juvenile or more ad- vanced schools, the Society forthwith engrafled it upon juvenile education, and with this view selected a sessional school as a mo- del until they should be able to have a juvenile model school, as well as an infant model school of their own. At these model seminaries, a great many teachers from all parts of the country have received instruction in the best modes of teaching and training the young. Such has been the success, and such the felt necessity for an institution, to embrace the grand objects of the Educational Society on a suitable scale in one building, that they have erected a Normal Seminary. This institution was su- perintended by the late Mr John M^Crie, son of the late cele- brated Dr M^Crie, as rector, till he was cut off by death in the prime of his days and the opening blossom of his usefulness. The most important facts connected with the operations of the Normal Seminary are to be found in the following extract from an Appeal recently circulated by the Society : " There are, at this moment, forty-seven students in regular 916 SUPPLEMENT TO THE # attendance, qualifying themselves, by means of the system pur* sued in it, for the office of Instructors of youth ; and already, at thegdate of 8 1st December 1836, there had been no fewer than 260 teachers, male and female, trained in the Society's schools. And so greatly is the system followed in their Seminary approved of by the country at large, that the applications for teachers who have been trained in it has been more than double of what the Society could supply. They have furnished schoolmasters to al- most every county of Scotland ; and the fame of the Seminary has been such, as to have induced the Government to send out, within the last four months, seventeen teachers who had been train- ed in it, to Australia, and twelve to the West Indies, for which latter destination they have requested the Society to furnish fifteen to twenty trainers additional, at salaries of L. 150 Sterling a-year. And let it be borne in mind, that the system, whose influence is thus rapidly extending, while it embraces every real and well-di- gested improvement, both in the art and in the subject matter of education which modern times.have devised, is a system thoroughly Christian, founded on, and throughout pervaded by, the great lessons of the Word of God. ^* To give some idea of the expense the Society have incurred in the erection of such an institution, it may be stated, that although the centre part of the building has for the present been omitted, what has been actually built and opened for use, and the whole of which wa8 absolutely necessary for the immediate and every- day purposes of the seminary, has cost, with its accompanying play-grounds, no less a sum than L. 8000. What has thus been completed, embraces four model schools — an Infant, a Juvenile, a Commercial, and a school of Industry, in which, taken together, there will be accommodation for the training of 1000 children. Each of these schools has its set of class-rooms attached to it for the use of the Normal students, and both children and Normal students of all elenominations are admitted to the benefits of the institution. The society are satisfied, that, in erecting such a seminary, they are conferring an incalculable benefit on the coun- try ; and, therefore, they feel assured the liberality of the friends of education will enable them to meet the large expense unavoid- ably incurred. For this purpose, a sum of at least L. 3000 is in- dispensably necessary." It will be gratifying to our readers to be informed that the Ge- ARTICLE GLASGOW. 9i7 neral Assembly, upon a late Report of its Standing Education Committee, has established a relation with this important institu* tion, so that it may be looked upon as a Normal seminary, ap- proved and adopted by the National Church. I have obtained the following information from David Stow, Esq. the noble-minded projector, and laborious secretary and su- perintendent of the Normal Seminary. It may be considered as supplying the leading facts connected with the institution, down to the present time. About L. 15,000 have been expended on the purchase of the site, play-grounds, building, furnishings, &c. Of this sum, L. 4500 have been contributed by Government from the Parliamentary ^ants ; L. 3500 have been raised by private subscription ; and a debt remains of L. 7000. More than 600 teachers, male and female, have been trained since the opening of the institution in 1836-7. The average number in attendance is about 40. At this moment it is 45. About 30 have gone to the West Indies. There is an addi- tional application for 9 for the same quarter ; 19 have gone to Australia, and several more are wanted. Not a few have gone to British America. A few have received appointments in Ireland, and a great many in England and Scotland. The English Poor- Law Commissioners have applied for, and received a considerable number. The demand for persons quali6ed for conducting the training system, is usually four times greater than the supply ; and it continues to encrease. Lately there was an application from Eng- land for 22, with the promise of salaries of L. 100 each. It is not uncommon for the secretary of the Institution to have applica- tions for so many teachers, that their joint salaries amount to be- tween L. 2000 and L. 3000. The number of children at present trained in the Normal Se- minary, is 500. It thus supplies the place of sessional schools to several adjoining parishes. The great difficulty with which the Institution has to contend, besides raising money for the teachers' salaries, and meeting the interest of the large debt, is the want of a few hundred pounds a year to assist the young men who come to be trained, to remain a longer period at the seminary than they are able to do from their own private resources. The present terra is six months ; but it is desirable it were twelve. Besides, LANARK. 3 N 918 SUPPLEMENT TO THE many would come who are not able to support themseWes for six months. A sum of money could not be better bestowed by Go- vernment, or the Educational Committee of the General Assem- bly, than upon this most important object. Hundreds of good trained teachers could thus be sent forth every year. When recording the state of education in Glasgow, it would be unpardonable to omit the mention of the Sessional schools, in- fant and juvenile, supported by and under the superintendence of different parochial congregations. Though not connected with the Educational Society, they are in a great degree conducted upon its principles. Such a list as the following is, in no small degree, honourable to the Church of Scotland, and strikingly vindicates her claims to a title which has all along been peculiarly her own— the friend of popular education. Expended by the Established Church in Glasgow since 1819, in the cause of education, independent of the annual expense of maintaining the schools :— St John*8 four schools, including teachers' houses, L. 4017 St David's, two do. with teacher's house, 2080 . St Paul's, Balfour's School, do. . 1100 Cowcaddon's Infant do. . ... 403 L.1883 950 2080 900 300 1400 8o0 L.7G00 Cases where assistance has been received from the Parliamen- tary grant : — St Enoch's Infant and Juvenile School, St George's, now St Peter'? do. Anderslon and St Mark's do. St James*, two schools, Bridgegatc, one school, . ... St Paul's Infant and Juvenile do. , St Luke's, one school. Normal Seminary, 1 Infant, 6 Juvenile ; these may be consider- ed as supplying schools to St Stephen and iMilton parishes, 6500 Deduct Government grants in these cases. Leaving subscribed by Established Church, Add, L.I88G0 In addition, Government grants have been received for Bridgetown Church, two schools, I^.GOO Brownficld Church, do. . 600 Well Park, do. . 500 Chalmers, do. . 760 L.14S65 3605 L.1P260 7600 L.2460 U ARTICLE GLASGOW. 919 In several of the other new churches subscriptions are raising for the erection of schools. And money is of course raised, at least to a parallel amount with the grant. Several of the schools are little more than opened ; but, including the parishes where schools, though not built, have been rented, and which have for years dispensed all the advantages of a cheap and excellent edu- cation, the whole number of children in these different schools in strict connection with the Establishment cannot be much under 5000. To which may be added for four schools on the maximum salary in the Barony, and ten besides, which receive from L. 2 to L.15 for teaching poor children, 1285 ; total 6235. It may be noticed that all the new churches, with the exception of St Stephen's and Milton, which are situated so near to the Nor- mal Seminary as to be able to avail themselves of its schools, are provided with schools of their own, or have the prospect of them ; and that in all the schools, without exception, the most improved modes of teaching are employed. With regard to the Gaelic churches, should it be asked whether any schools are set apart for the education of the Gaelic popula- tion, we are glad to have it in our power to state that two large charity schools, — the Highland and M*Lauchlan's, are intended for children of Highland origin, and teach 570 children, at an annual cost of L.1400. In one of the schools, the children are clothed and apprenticed out at the expense of the insti- tution. It may be added, that the other leading charity schools, such as Hutcheson's Hospital, Millar's, and Wilson's, were all founded by members of the Established Church, anU where additional bequests have been made, proceeded from the same quarter. In these five great charity schools alone, near- ly 900 children are taught, besides many clothed, at an annual expense of L. 3013. Wilson^s school cost originally L.2054. Its expenditure on education from 1818 to 1837, has been not less than L. 5000. In several of the others, the sum has been much larger. Such institutions are highly creditable to the enlightened patriotism and Christian spirit of Glasgow. It need scarcely be added, that all are under the direction of the ministers of the Church, in some cases aided by the elders, and that the education is based upon religion. Several additional charity schools are in the course of being raised. From 'a Parliamentary return on the application of the sum 920 SUPPLEMENT TO THE of L. 20,000, voted of late years for education to Scotland, it appears that almost the whole sum has been appropriated by parties connected with the Established Church. This could odly have been done by their previously raising a proportional sum themselves. Several years ago, thirty-six grants had in this way been made to the friends of the church, generally to kirk-sessions, (now they must be much more numerous,) and twenty addiUonal applications were lying over, waiting for a new Parliamentary grant. By a strange perversity, some have misinterpreted the result of the Government Education Returns of 1 833-^34. Because the schoolsin Scotland not parochial are much more numerous than those which are parochial, it seems to be inferred that the parochial system is a weak and inefficient one. The number of parochial schools is 1047, taught by 1170 instructors. The greatest number of children taught in them from Michaelmas 1833 to Lady-day 1834 is nearly 80,000. The number of schools not parochial is 3995, taught by 4469 instructors; the greatest number of children taught at the same period, 207,31 0. It is certainly not the fault of the parochial school system that it has not been more extended. Even from the returns given above, it would seem that its schools teach a far higher proportional number of children than those not parochial. Upon an average there are nearly eighty children in each school of the one, while there are only fifty in each school of the other class ; intimating that the parochial school is the Fchool to which the children of the poor and working-classes have readiest access. But what are the schools which belong to the class not parochial? Are they all private schools, or Dissenting schools; and do Dissenters thus prove that they are much better friends of education than the Established Church ? Far from it. A lar^e body of them may be said to be endowed, which some consider the great evil of the parochial system. Under the head of not parochial are included all the burgh ^nd charity schools in towns; schools not maintained by fees; and all the schools in the country, and particularly in the Highlands and Islands, which are support- ed by societies and subscriptions. We have no means of exactly knowing what proportion these bear to the schools strictly private, which depend altogether upon fees; but there is no question that they bear a very high proportion. From the returns of schools exa- mined by the Presbytery of Glasgow, in 1837, it would seem, that, in the city, where there are no parochial schools, the number pf burgh, ARTICLE GLASGOW. 921 subscription, charity, and society schools, in other words, schools wholly or partially endowed, is to the mere private schools as 72 to 74. And there is no reason to think, supposing the whole schools of the city had been examined, that the proportion would have very seriously differed. The Report of the General Assem- bly's Education Committee of 1837, (page 31,) gives an account of the examination of schools in fifty-six presbyteries, and these not in- cluding the schools in the large towns, nor many of the gram- mar-schools in landward parishes; and yet out of 2*246 schools examined, the parochial are 687, the not parochial endowed schools 632, the private schools 927. Thus the parochial and endowed are 1319; but though each of them separately is less in number than the private schools, yet the education which they dispense to the community is much more extensive. The pa- rochial scholars at present are 35,668. The scholars belonging to endowed schools are 33,330, amounting together to 68,998, while the scholars in private schools are 38,000. The reader need not be reminded how generally, almost universally, not only the pa- rochial but endowed schools may be said to have originated with and been supported by the Church. The Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and the General Assembly's Education Scheme, which are both strictly connected with the Esta- blishment, have themselves 342 schools, and teach 20,000 children. The Sessional schools, infant and juvenile, of Glasgow, which belong to the same denomination of school, and which are sup- ported by the Church, teach, we have seen, not less than 5000. And even as to the private schools, are they to be rated as Dis- senting schools, and pleaded against the parochial and endow- ed ? No idea can be more unwarranted. Whence has origi- nated, in a great degree, that taste for education which has cre- ated private schools, but the previous wide-spread parochial sys- tem ; and who are generally their teachers, but men who were educated for the national church, and but for whose professional education the quality of private teaching would not be half so good as it is ? It is an important fact, which appears from the re- turn of the examination of schools last year, that even in Glasgow, where those not of the Establishment are strong, out of 146 schools examined, only 32 of the teachers were Dissenters. The remain- der belonged to the Established Church. It is pleasing to add, that in very few cases were the presbytery denied admission. If such a large proportion of the teachers of private schools 922 SUPPLEMENT TO THE even in Glasgow belong to the Established Church, how much greater must be the proportion over the country generally ? The Church of Scotland has never been the enemy of private schools. Her whole history in connection with education is a proof of this; but she thinks that schools are most likely to be acces- sible to the mass of the people where they are endowed, and where, of course, the education is cheap; that it is de- sirable to have some religious security for what is taught the youth of the nation ; and that such a system as the parochial is as open as any other to all salutary, intellectual, and literary im- provement. Whatever improvement, without affecting the great principles of morality and religion as at present taught, may be in* troduced into the education of Scotland ; (and the Church has shown that she is not only not backward, but most anxious to pro- mote these improvements, as the facts of this paper can tes- tify,) there is one which is of the highest importance, and that is, a better remuneration to the teacher. It is a sad truth, the data of which the summary of Education returns for 1838-84 supply, that the whole emoluments of the 1170 parochial instructors of Scot- land are upon an average, only L. 47, 6s. over the country ge- nerally ; and for teachers of private schools the provision is still lower. In the Highlands it is as low as L. 13. In such cir- cumstances, how vain is it to expect that there can be any general or substantial improvement in the system of education as a whole ! Men, who are so miserably under-paid, can scarcely be expected to be very well educated themselves, or to persevere in acquiring improvements, or to teach with spirit and zeal. Where the qualifications are superior, there must be a strong temptation to exchange the school for a profession which more adequately rewards the labour. In every light, the result must be most injurious to the cause of able and successful teaching. Ancient Ecclesiastical Record — Religious State of Glasgoic in the end of the Sixteenth Century, — Since the above was written, an important record has come into the possession of the presbytery, and I have been requested to give a short ac- count of it. The record was supposed to be an early volume of the presbytery minutes, which would have been very va- luable, as so large a portion of these minutes was destroyed or greatly injured by fire in 1793; but on examination, it appears that the record is the kirk-session book of Glasgow from 3d November 1583, to 29th March 1592, extending there- ARTICLE GLASGOW. 923 fore, over little more than eight years. The presbytery are indebted for this important gift to W. WalkerJ Esq., a descendant of the session-clerk of Glasgow ; and the reader is indebted for the decyphering, which required no small skill, to the Rev. Mr Leishman of Govan, whose historical and antiquarian attainments are well known to his friends. The record is valuable, not so much, perhaps, for the ecclesiastical information as for the picture of manners which it supplies. It would be vain to attempt, in the narrow limits of this paper, to give any extracts which could af-- ford the reader an idea of the general contents : I shall therefore select a few topics bearing on the character of the Church of Scot- land at that early period. Ecclesiastical history too frequently deals in mere secularities. I shall refer in the following ps^es chiefly to facts and circumstances which bring out the spiritual character of the Establishment as a church of Christ Had not the Rev. Mr Leishman, in the Statistical Account of his parish, related the anxious labours of the kirk-session of Glasgow for the maintenance, reparation, and orderly care of the ca- thedral, I would have noticed this circumstance, so honourable to the session, as furnishing a complete refutation of the com- mon charge, that the Reformers and their friends were, in their ha- tred to Popery, enemies to the lawful architectural ornament of churches. There can be no question that such a charge has been grossly exaggerated. Both at Perth and Scone, it appears from Wodrow's MS. collections, that Knox and Erskine of Dun re- strained and withheld the people from pulling down the Popish build- ings. It is certain that the adherents of the Church of Rome could not have more carefully watched over the cathedral than the early Protestant Presbyterians. The record, which has lately come to light, is full of the proof of this. The references to the High Church are perpetual. I have counted above sixty in the eight years embraced in the record. With regard to the population of Glasgow at the period of which the session record treats, we have no evidence whatever. A w riter of $ome interesting early notices of Glasgow, who is supposed to have been the late Rev. Dr Porteous, states, that in 1600, ten years subsequent to the date of which we speak, he had reason to think the town of Glasgow did not cont^iin above 6000 inhabitants. He adds, " probably they were considerably below that number." We should think they were considerably less. Down to 1587, a year comprehended within the record, — there was but one mi- 924 SUPPLEMENT TO THE nister in Glasgow, Mr David Weems. It would seem that the population was increasing, and that he felt the duties of the parish too heavy for him, for in this year Mr John Cowper was ap- pointed his colleague. Even this arrangement does not seem to have met the necessities of the case, for three years after an addi- tional palish was erected, of which Mr John Bell, one of the re- gents of the University, was appointed minister. This was the Tron Church parish, and five years later, or in 1595, on an applica- tion from the people beyond the town, a synodal assembly erected the Barony into a parish. Mr Rowat was admitted minister, and peached to his congregation in the Laigh Barony Kirk, which' is now used as a burying-place. Such was the church extension spirit of these days, that, in forty years after the Reformation, there were three churches to a population of probably considerably less than 6000. It would have been well had the same spirit conti- nued to our day. In addition to these churches, Blackfriars or the College Church, was used, but only on week-days, for the week-day religious exercises, and for the meetings of session. This leads me to notice, that, besides the preaching on the Lord's day, there was preaching in Blackfriars on Wednesdays and Fridays. This lasted from eight to nine in the morning, and, prior to an ad- ditional parish being erected, there was an earnest supplication from the provost and magistrates to the ministers, to have preaching iu two churches on the Lord's day. This seems to be an intimation at onco of their religious spirit, and of the felt and growing wants of the city. According to M'Ure's History of Glasgow, there were no more churches in Glasgow than the three which have been mentioned, down to 1687. In other words, for nearly a cen- tury, no provision was made for the increased spiritual wants of the inhabitants. At that time, on an indulgence being granted by James IL, two large places of worship were immediately erected by the Presbyterians, who flocked in crowds to hear their own ministers, who had been so long proscribed. The old churches, which still remained in the hands of the Episcopalians, and which had never been well attended, were nearly deserted. Reverting to the early days of which the Session Record testi- fies, it appears that the otBce -bearers of the church, the elders, and deacons were very numerous, and consisted of the most respecta- ble — the leading men of the town and parish. The ofiice was annual, but usually the same persons were re-elected. The provost and mag\slrales s^em ?\\n^^'s» Vq Wnv- V^^^u elders. The name of AUTICI^E GLASGOW. 925 Sir Matthew Stewart of Mynto, Provost of Glasgow, frequently occurs ; and among the number we meet with that of the Parson of Renfrew, the Sub-dean of Glasgow, the Principal of the College, some of the Regents in the University, &c. In 1588, we meet with the name of Robert Lord Boyd. In that year, there were not less than 34 elders and 20 deacons ; two years after, 39 elders and 18 deacons ; on another occasion, 42 elders and 24 deacons ; and in 1592, when the second, the additional parish of the Tron was created, there were 37 elders and 25 deacons. This shows how strong was the religious spirit of the people. Besides, so large a body of the choice men of the parish must have formed a power- ful aid to the minister in his labours. A good man, in a parish of a few thousands, surrounded by a staff of more than sixty moral la- bourers, must have felt himself greatly strengthened and encouraged. With God's blessing, his success must have been insured. In addition to the elders and deacons, there was an important class of labourers — the Scripture readers. The session records frequently speak of them. They seem to have read public prayers and the Scriptures, where there was no settled minister, and also in some cases, at least, to have celebrated marriage, and administered dis- cipline. The name of the reader at Monkland appears in the re- cords in this connection. In 1591, the stipend of the reader of Glasgow was L. 20 — paid out of the thirds of the bishoprick. Even this small sum the session had to defend against the rapa- city of a factor. The reader in Glasgow seems also to have been the teacher of music, as he petitions for a seat in the Blackfriars' Church, which he may occupy with his scholars on the preaching days. Turning from those who maybe called office-bearers in the church, we may now attend to the members; and here, following the session record as our guide, we find that all were not indiscriminately ad- mitted to ordinances, as in some modern churches, but, on the con- trary, that no parent could receive baptism for his child unless he could ** distinctly tell the commandments of the Eternal God ; the articles of faith, and the Lord's prayer." When he was found ignorant or judged unworthy, " some other godly man was to re- ceive the bairn of the ignorant to be baptized," and he was to be subjected to the discipHne of the church. A similar requirement was extended to persons desirous of marrying. Until their reli- gious knowledge was ascertained, they were " judged unworthy to be joined in that band." With regard to the Lord's Supper, it was dis^nsed tv(o S^Vi- 926 SUPPLEMENT TO THE bath-days in succession. A similar arrangeineot obtained in the West Kirk of Edinburgh about the same period. Indeed, in the latter three successive Sabbaths, and in particular circum- stances, even four, at a later day, were occupied in this service. This indicated a very large attendance at the communion* It could not be overtaken in one day, and when the care which vas exercised in the admission to the ordinance, to which we shall pre- sently advert, is taken into account, the result is the more inte- resting and creditable to the church. It is the proof of a large body making a public Christian profession. The communion, too, seems to have been celebrated more frequently than once a year. The Commendator of Blantyre, who, according to law, was required to provide the elements, objected to furnishing the bread and wine more frequently than once a year ; but his objection was imme- diately met and overcome. Several members of session were ap- pointed to taste the wine, and see that it was of the best quality. No person was admitted to the Lord's table until he had under- gone a satisfactory examination as to his knowledge and charac ter, and there were regular catechetical exercises during the year. Those who did not attend them, though they had been previous- ly admitted to the ordinance, were excluded. Any one presum- ing to sit down at the Lord's table, who had contravened these rules of the church, was to be immediately *' raised from the table, and called before the session, to answer for his absence from his examinations, and for his presuming to come to the comraunioD." In this way, the religious knowledge of those who had once been admitted was not suffered to languish, but was kept up and in- creased. Previous to the dispensation of the Supper, a public meeting was held of the ministers, elders, deacons, " and the hail honest men of the town," that if any one had any thing to object to the doctrine of the ministers, or the life of the other office- bearers of the church, they might have an opportunity of stating their objection. Another end of the meeting was to ascertain where any grudges or enmities existed among church members, that there might be a reconciliation " before the ministration of the memorials of the Supper of the Lord Jesus." This meet- ing was held upon the Wednesday ; another for preaching was held upon the Saturday afternoon. The first indicates a very simple and primitive state of society, and, in such circumstances, might often prove very useful. In the more artificial age in which we Hve, a similar procedure might create evils which it was intend- ed to cure. "WVvvVg \\\^ Ocv>a.\Ocv ^^^ ^^ ^x^m being lax in admis- ARTICLE GLASGOW. 9*27 sion to ordinances, she was very earnest in insisting upon men making a public profession of religion. Indeed, where this was withheld, she entertained suspicions of their character and motives. The Lord's Supper, though not formally used as such, seems often to have served as a test whether a man were a Papist or a Protestant. Aware of this, and to cover their Popery, Roman Catholics often alleged that the reason why they did not communicate was that they and their neighbours were at variance. This wasafalse pretence. Hence, the session in 1589 called upon such persons, notwithstand- ing their alleged " uncharity," to be resolved " in their consciences, as the word of God prescribes, and to communicate,'' under the pain, if they gave no reasonable excuse to the session within a certain time, of being summarily excommunicated as Papists* This may seem a severe measure ; but resistance to Popery was essential to self-preservation ; and if the church insisted upon men making a profession of religion, she was eminent for the zeal t?ith which she laboured to bring them to a suitable standard of know- ledge and feeling. It may seem almost incredible, but she made some of her members responsible under a penalty for the instruc- tion of their brethren. In 1592, ** Andrew Barrie was made re- sponsible for Andrew Blackrode and his wife, under the pain of ten merks ; John Park for Michael Brooke is under the pain of L. 4 ; Robert Hutcheson for Janet Park, under the pain of L. 4, or^be- come cautioners and sureties that the said persons shall learn the commandments betwixt this and the next communion time." Having contemplated the component parts of the early Protest* ant Presbyterian Church in Glasgow, the ministers, elders, dea- cons, and members, we may now, following the guidance of the same records, advert to the firm stand made by the church against false doctrine and the violation of God's holy law, and also her active benevolence to man, prompted by the purest Christian principles. The early Church of Scotland was eminent for her thorough hatred to Popery. She knew its atrocities from experience, and felt and acted accordingly. She required her people not only to come out from the Church of Rome, but to put away from them, and destroy every Popish relic and memorial which mightbe inter- preted as giving countenance to the unholy system, or which might prove ensnaring. Thus, in 1588, " the session ordains Sir Bar- tholomew Simpson, in whose chamber was yesterday found certain boards and pictures, being the monuments of idolatry, to pass immediately thereafter with them to the cross, and set the sqiaa 928 SUPPLEMENT TO THE on fire ; and James Crawford and Walter Heriot are to go with him to see the same done." Persons possessing the like monuments are to be constrained to do the same with them. In 1592, tbe widow of George Robertson is required to burn " the idolatrous geir found in her house," at the cross, in a fire made at her own expense, and to cast it into the flame " with her awin hands." In the following week, she confesses her sin against God and his kirk, in keeping beside her " the pictures of the Virgin Mary and the babe Jesus, as well as mass-clouts, mass-books, and priests' bonnets." She pays ten merks to the poor previous to her release from the discipline of the church. There is reason to believe that the destruction of such monuments of idolatry, and the monaste- ries and other religious houses, which were receptacles of iniqui- ty, have been mistaken by hasty and ill-informed writers for the destruction of churches, as if the Reformers had borne a grudge at whatever had been used by the Church of Rome, however in- nocent in itself. The church showed no less zeal against super- stition than against idolatry. The superstitious observance of Yiile day, brought offenders under the discipline of the kirk ses- sion so early as 158*S. ^* The bakers are ordained to be spoken with in regard to whom they bake Yule meat ;" and three years later, five men, for most superstitiously observing St Thomas's eve on the 20th of December, were put in ward over nio^ht, and strictly dealt with. The complaint is, that they passed through the town on that evening " with pipes and tambours to the trouble of sundry honest men in the town sleeping in their beds; and the raising of the old dregs of superstition used among the Papists." While the early Protestant church was thus clear and decided in her hostility to Popish principles and practices, she carefully guarded the sanctity of God's holy day. A country coming fresh from Popery could not be expected to yield much reverence to the Sabbath. In these cases the Saints' days are more regarded than the Lord's day. Accordingly, we find that Sabbath profanation, in the forms of the going of milns, the working of kilns, salmon-fishing, the mowing of meadows, the gathering in of harvest, the casting of peats, &c. were not uncommon. These are forbidden under a se- vere penalty ; in one case a fine of L. 2. Moreover, one of the ma- gistrates is appointed to perambulate the town during divine ser- vice, to see who are at work. A singular entry in the record under this head is found in April 15d2: "The session, perceivingthe Sab- bath to be profaned anew by the beggars and youth in the town, in bickering aui\Wv\\^\v\w\\vQ\N^\^^'^^'^Q\\^\v<^^'t^l^^ hereafter there ARTICLE GLASGOW. 929 be neither men's sons, apprentices, nor poor ones, that shall be found to bicker on the Sunday, or profane the said day by their plays ; but that the fathers of the said sons, and the masters of the said apprentices, shall pay to the treasurer of the kirk for the 6rst fault 20s, for the second 30s., and so on toiies quoties ; and that the beggars be banished the town for ever without hope of their regress to the same." Nor did the faithful men of Glasgow in these early days con- tent themselves with the protection of the day of God ; — they re- membered the claims of benevolence. They dealt in acts of positive kindness to their fellow-men. The love of God led to the love of man. At a period when the stipends of ministers, where they existed, did not exceed 400 or 500 merks, a most aflfectionate regard was paid to the wants of the poor ; the session records are full of references to them. In 1588, the town seems to have been overrun with beggars. Indeed, that great social change, though in a partial degree, was going forward in Scotland, which led in the reign of Elizabeth to the enactment of the poor- laws pf England. The superior ecclesiastical system of this poorer country, warded off what for so many generations has proved a curse to the sister land. Regular collections were made at the church-doors for the relief of the poor. These upon an average extended from L.1 to L. 3 Scots, or about 3s. 3d. Sterling. This may seem a small sum, but, taking into account the value of money, it was not really so. About that period a boll of wheat could be had for 2s. 6d. of our money, and the carcase of the best sheep was sold in Edinburgh for lOd. Hence it appears that the col- lection for the poor was very considerable. In 1588, it is stated that the box contained L. 22 in silver, which was equally divided for distribution in the town into four parts. When the church collections, owing to any particular pressure of destitution, were found inadequate, recourse was had to subscription, and ministers, magistrates, elders, &c. berime collectors. We read of one per- son in this way bringing in 6 merks, 6s. 8d; another 10 merks, 168.; another 20s. ; another 31s. ; another L. 5, 12s. 8d. WHien men went round on this errand they are directed to collect " of those that may spare some of their goods and geir for the relief of their poor brethren, and that with all expedition." The power of granting discretionary relief was exercised by the elders and dea.- cons. Some interesting cases of individual relief are noticed. Thus, 4s. are granted to one James Kilpatrick to release his cloth- ing from some sort of pawn. " The kirk ordains John Fifc^ flc^Ke^, 930 SUPPLEMENT TO THE to be helped by a collection throughout the town next Monday." A few years later, '^ the session grants license to John Mudie aod William Millar, to gather in this town on some day the; shall think most meet, some alms to John Maxwell in the Stockwell, for the relief of him and his poor motherless bairns.*' But while thus so kind to the poor, the kindness was exercised in the spirit of Christian wisdom. At one time the poor were required to pre- sent a ticket to the session, shewing how the bounty was expend* ed, that the donors might be satisfied it had not been abused. The poor, too, were required to attend the public prayers on the Lord's-day, and only those who did so were allowed ^^ to get meat in the town." Thus did the Church make her charity subservient to the spiritual welfare of the poor ; and while the poor were cared for, no encouragent was given to sturdy beggars. Application was made to the magistrates to disperse them. In 1586, they seem to have stood in crowds around the church-door plate, and to have troubled the collectors. It is ordained that they shall all be put forth beyond the kirk-door and style, " except the poor old woman who sits in the barrow within the kirk." As an evidence of the number of the poor in those days, it may be mentioned that in the West Kirk of Edinburgh, when the population of the parish did not exceed 2000, the number of paupers was 80. Of course there, as in Glasgow, all were supported by the liberality of the Church. But our forefathers did not limit their benevolence to the poor of the parish in which they resided. Like Christian men they felt for the temporal and the spiritual wants of others at a distance. Hence we read in the year 1589, that " the session ordains the supplication of the Blantyre folks, who had their corn destroyed by hailstones, to be read out the next Sunday,' and the said folks to be helped on the said Sunday." And, what is a still more strik- ing illustration of Christian liberality, we find that they, amid all their own poverty and struggles, contributed for the relief of the suffering churches of Geneva and France. In 1590, it is said, " touching the relief to the Kirk of Geneva, it is referred to the council, and for their relief the ministers are ordained to travel with the council on Saturday next." With regard again to the French Protestants in 1588, there is the following deliverance : — " The which day the session ordains Mr Pat. Sharp, Principal of the College of Glasgow, and Mr John Cowper, one of the ministers there, to go to the council on Saturday next, and to pro- pound to them the necessities of the poor brethren of France, ba- nished to Eit\^^Tv^ ^ox ^^ \^\^v^w^ ^"^w^^^ and to crave of them ARTICLE GLASGOW. 931 their support to the said poor brethren." They farther a&k the couDcil to appoint six members of session, three to take up col- lections in the east of the town, and three in the west ; the whole to be done with all possible diligence. It may be added, that, as leprosy was not uncommon in these days, there was a house for the accommodation of persons affected with this malady, to which frequent reference is made in the re- cords. These records speak of the ^* poor leper folk's house be- yond the bridge." It is situated in St Ninian's Croft, Gorbals, and was repaired by the silver exacted from penitent delinquents by the session. Originally it seems to have been supported by the feuars, and afterwards by the liberality of the inhabitants of the town generally. There was also an alms-house, the inmates of which were required to attend divine service forenoon and after- noon on the Lord's day, and family worship morning and evening every day, under the penalty of a forfeiture of the advantages of the institution if they failed. I have not observed many no- tices in regard to education ; but there can be little doubt that in Glasgow, as in other parts of Scotland at that time, there were most earnest endeavours to promote so important a cause. There was a grammar-school, which seems to have been well attended, as, so early as 1586, we read of ^^ a loft in the High Church being ordered to be prepared for the grammar-school bairns ;" and we read of a singing-school having been established in Blackfriars or the College Church. Indeed, considerable exertions were used by the session and town-council to obtain a properly qualified man. The Principal of the University's name appears on the list of the committee appointed to find a music-master ; and a desire is ex- pressed to encourage not merely vocal but instrumental music. We may safely conclude, that when this branch of education was regarded, other and still more substantial parts (so far as the means of the community allowed) were not neglected. In the appointment of a beadle in 1590, it is agreed that, in as much as the office is a public one, and it is most desirable to have a per- son who can read and write well, therefore steps are to be taken to obtain the services of one so qualified. In conclusion, I would simply advert, and that in the way of obviating an objection and meeting a prejudice to the se- verity of the church discipline exercised on the days of which I have been writing. This is a very prominent feature in all the ecclesiastical records of the period, and is apt to be misin- terpreted, as if our fathers were harsh and uuamiable xnew* 932 SUPPLEMENT TO THE ARTICLE OF GLASGOW. The fraternal kindness, however, which they discover for tbe poor, and for foreign churches labouring under persecution, sl.ould be a sufficient answer to such an imputation. Tbe true explanation seems to be, that the Protestant church was deal- ing with men who had come forth fresh from the careless and re- laxed morality of the Church of Rome ; that the state of man- ners and society generally was rough, needing strong measures; that the civil and criminal law was so weak, that an important part of its duty was devolved on the stronger arm of the ecclesiastical ; andthat our forefathers entertained, and justly, a higher idea of what is due to church discipline than is common in the easy and luxurious age in which we live. For what was decidedly intolerant in their pro- ceedings I offer no defence, save that they had been taught in the most intolerant of all schools, and that in these days Popery was so mixed up with treasonable or seditious politics, that, in applying a strong coercive restraint to its professors, the state, and our fa* thers were doing no more than obeying the first of all laws — ^self- preservation ; a law which would testify a similar exercise of power in the same circumstances at the present day. For w hat may ap- pear unduly severe in the exercise of discipline upon the church's own members, I have only to say, in addition to what has been already remarked, that at least it was eminently impartial, and to a very great degree, in combination with other means, successful in raising Scotland, in an incredibly brief season, to the highest j)itch of moral and religious feeling of which there is any example among nations. If we are startled in reading of kirk-sessions im- prisoning or banishing serious delinquents, or sending them to the pillory, or requiring them to appear several Sabbath days in suc- cession at the church-door in sackcloth, bare-headed and bare- footed, or ducking them in the Clyde, it is to be remembered that no rank, however exalted, was spared, and that a special severity was exercised toward ministers and elders and office-bearers in the church when they offended. There was no favouritism.* In very many cases it is to be considered, too, that the punishment inflict- ed by the session, is all which is suffered for that offence. In such circumstances, even where civil penalties are incurred, it cannot be accounted undue. Deccmher 1840. A Lord Semjile's handwriting is found in the record, acknowlednes of diflferent kinds. Small tracts of sandy or gravelly soil sometimes occur ; and when a bed of this description is of tolerable depth, the land is dry ; but where- ever the under stratum of clay approaches the surface, the soil is light and wet. In the valleys along the Clyde and other consider- able streams, a deep, rich alluvial soil lies upon a bed of open gravel. At a distance from the river is frequently found a thin loose soil, lying upon a clay bed, apt to heave with the changes of the weather, and unfit for every useful kind of vegetable produc- tion. Somewhat similar to this, but more productive of grass, is the black or grey soil on the high moorish grounds. A large proportion of the Middle Ward is occupied with moss or peat ON THE COUNTY OF LANAItK. 939 earth. This is of two kinds. The one is generally of a mo- derate thickness, composed of decayed vegetables produced by a cold watery soil and damp atmosphere. " As those vegetables," says Naismith, " which are nourished by a genial heat and kindly soil, are quickly susceptible of the putrid fermentation, and, in rotting, fall into loam, so those that thrive in cold moisture have something in their nature which, in a great measure, preserves their form and bulk even in decay ; and by the growth of one year above another through the lapse of time, in a neglected country, they accumulate into beds of this inflammable earth. Almost all the tribe of mosses ( Musci)^ and some other aquatic plants are of this nature. When those beds lie on low ground, wher^ water can carry particles of heavy earth upon them, they are thus ren- dered less porous, and produce a considerable quantity of grass ; when they are on the rising grounds, heath and deer-hair (Scirjms ccBspitosusJ are the chief productions." The other kind lies ge- nerally in plains or hollows above the eminences, and is of considerable depth. All of these have in former times been the site of large forests ; some of the trees of which having fallen down across the water-course, and interrupted whatever was brought along by the stream, first formed dams, and finally converted the whole into a standing pool. As the standing water prevailed over the roots of the trees, they would die, one after another, till the whole forest was laid prostrate. Mosses and a variety of aquatic herbage have grown over these from age to age, till they have extended to great masses of spongy matter, called Flow-mosses, These are much more extensive in that district than mosses of the former descrip- tion ; and as the abundance of coals renders peats of little request as fuel, these flow-mosses, which produce but little esculent herb- age, are of scarcely any value. The highest ridge on the eastern side of Clyde runs aloi)g the eastern extremity of Cambusnethan, through the middle of Bertram Shotts, and then through East Monkland, decUning a little as it proceeds westwards. In these three parishes, particularly in Shotts, lies the greatest part of the mosses on this side of the river. Of the rest of the soil along this ridge, a great part is moorish, coarse, and wet. Along the Cal- der, however, which divides Cambusnethan from Shotts, there is, on both sides of that stream, a track of good soil. Near its course the land is light, sandy, or gravelly, and pretty dry ; farther down it becomes a strong clay. The ridge on the opposite side, begin- ning in the parish of Avondale, is a continuation of the hilly range 940 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS which divides the parishes of Douglas and Lesmahago from Ayr- shire. From Avondale it runs through the parishes of Kilbride, Cambuslang, and Carmunnock to the county of Renfrew. Here the wilds are much more extensive than on the east of the Clyde, — tracts of many miles producing little else than mosses, bent- grass, or heather. The arable land of Avondale, but a small pro- portion of the whole, lies in the lower part of the parish* It is mostly a gravelly soil, in many instances fertile, and producing, in particular, when laid down after proper tillage, abundance of good grass. Of the parish of Kilbride, more than three-fourths are arable. On the south-east the soil, lying upon a hard open rock, is free and pretty fertile ; to the north and west it becomes a stiff clay ; on the west boundary, it is a happy mixture of these two kinds, and extremely productive. The parishes of Stonehouse and Glass- ford, along the banks of the Avon, are mostly arable, and the soil is good. In Stonehouse a considerable portion is sandy, and ^' of a pleasant improveable quality.'' In Glassford it is more generally gravelly, and mostly dry, although springs sometimes occur. As the land recedes from the Avon on both sides, the argillaceous bottom approaches nearer the surface, and is covered either with a grey moorish soil, or with a soft clay, frequently thin and moist In the high parts of Glassford, there is a considerable extent of moss. The remaining part of the Middle Ward, comprehending the lower part of Cambusnethaii, the parishes of Dalziel, Both- well, and West Monkland on the east and north of the river, and Dalserf, Hamilton, and Blantyre on the west and south, a track of upwards of twelve miles in length, and averaging nearly six miles in breadth, may vie in beauty and interest with any tract of similar extent in Britain. The soil and climate are peculiarly favourable to the growth of wood ; and spontaneous copsewoods everywhere adorn the hanging banks. There, too, are those beautiful and rich orchards, for which Clydesdale has long been so deservedly cele- brated, embosomed in woods by the foot of the rising slopes ; while the opening vales, rich and well cultivated, present to the admiring spectator, wherever a glimpse of them is to be caught, the sweet- est verdure or the most luxuriant crops. In this track, clay is the predominating soil ; sandy and gravelly soils are rare, except in West Monkland, in which parish, too, at its greatest distance from the Clyde, occur the only mosses in this interesting track. On some of the higher grounds, we meet with that loose heaving soil, to which we have already adverted, of a quality peculiarly bad. ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 941 The Lower Ward, though naturally less interesting, is, from its possessing Glasgow within its bounds, the most important of the three. Of the parish of Cambuslang part is occupied by a rocky eminence called Ditchmount, the soil upon and around which is light and stony, while that of the rest of the parish is mostly clay, excepting upon the verge of the Clyde* The soil of Carmunnock resembles that of Cambuslang, only that, as it does not approach the Clyde, it wants the rich alluvial land, which, in the former parish, lies contiguous to the river. Of Rutherglen the higher part is clay ; the lower is either sandy or rich alluvial soil along the Clyde. The greater part of Govan parish is sand, — the original poverty of which is now almost forgotten in the productiveness to which it has been brought by skilful culture, aided by the facility of pro- curing manure from Glasgow, and incited by the certain prospect of a lucrative return. The Barony parish is exceedingly diversified. The holms or valleys of Dalmarnock are peculiarly] fertile* Of the knolls in the north side of the parish the tops are, in many in- stances, hard and stiff, the bottoms wet and spongy. In other places, the soil has been originally poor ; but here, as in Govan, the spirit of improvement, stimulated by the encouragement of local situation, has created fertility where it did not before exist. Of Cadder, or Calder parish, the middle is moist, moorish, and barren ; but in its borders all around, there is a great deal of good soil, mostly light and pretty dry. Before closing this account of the different soils in the county, we may remark, that land on the same parallel, other circumstances^ being equal, is always of more value in proportion to the compa- rative lowness of the situation, the quality of the herbage on the more elevated lands being less succulent, and the reproduction slower when in grass, and the grain, when they are in corn, being less plump, less perfectly ripened, and later. The nature of the subsoil, or under stratum, has likewise most important influence ; moist exuding bottoms producing grain of inferior quality, and late in ripening. The arable land along the Clyde, above the Falls, is superior to any in the lower part of the county, not only to fields nearly on the same level along the ridges of the country, but ex- ceeding in intrinsic fertility even the fine low grounds, which are less elevated by 400 or 500 feet In this higher district, the mea* dows or valleys by the river side are alternately cropped, and left for a few years in grass ; and, without receiving any manure, con- tinue to yield abundant crops* The uplands, when properly freed 942 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS of weeds, are very productive, with half the manure which is ne- cessary in the lower parts of the county ; and the harvests are ge- nerally earlier. Hydrography, — In the hydrography of Lanarkshire, the princi- pal feature, — a most important and interesting one — is the Clyde. This river, next to the Tay the largest in Scotland, and, beyond comparison, the first in commercial importance, has its rise near Queensberry Hill, at the southern extremity of the county, about 1400 feet above the level of the sea. It is at first a small rivulet, called Crossburn. This flows into a stream called the Daer, which, after a course of a few miles, is joined by the Little Clyde, an inferior stream, which rises at the foot of Clydeslaw, near the sources of the Tweed and Annan, and, by an usurpation similar to what occurs in the case of the Nile, and some other important rivers, defrauds the larger stream of the honour of giving its name to the river formed by their united waters. Seen from the top of Tinto, in a Gne summer day, this noble river is one of the most interesting objects which perhaps any landscape can present Towards its source, it appears like a thread of silver, expanding as it approaches nearer the spectator's eye, into a broader and more splendid line, and flowing through a country richer in beauty, as well as more distinctly seen. After sweeping past Tinto in a north- east course, which it has pursued for several miles, it seems, by an ample curve, which it takes on the borders of Culter parish, to be making an effort to return to its mountain scenery, for it now flows to the west. At this point of its course a phenomenon sometimes oc- curs, which naturally gives rise to speculations of some interest. The waters of the Clyde are occasionally discharged into those of the Tweed. So slightly elevated above the bed of the Clyde is the vale of Biggar-water, which stretches between the two rivers, that, in a high flood, the Clyde pours some of its waters into the Biggar, by which they are borne to the Tweed. This happens not only at long intervals, as in the course of a cen- tury, but once in three or four years, evincing with what facility the Clyde might be diverted into the channel of the border river. Had our southern neighbours, when their hostile incursions were so frequent and harassing, been able to foresee, and to estimate the commercial superiority which they would have acquired, and the injury which they would have inflicted on our nation, by mak- ing the Clyde a tributary to their boundary river, discharging its waters, v^*vlV\ iVvos^ ot l\\^ Tweedy at Berwick, who can calculate ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 943 on the changes that might thus have been produced in the rela- tive conditions of the two kingdoms ? From Wolf Clyde, where the river takes the remarkable curve above-mentioned, its course is nearly west by north, till, about a quarter of a mile below Hyndford Bridge, it makes another re- markable bend to the north, and flowing in that direction between more contracted banks, and over a more rocky bed, forms the suc- cessive romantic falls of Bonnington, Cora Linn,and Stonebyres. In the rest of its course, it is comparatively smooth, flowing through a country of peculiar richness and beauty, and becoming at Glas- gow the medium of the most important branch of the commerce of Scotland. Since the date of the last Statistical Account, this river has undergone the most material improvements. With the progress of commerce and manufactures in Glasgow, the advantage, and, indeed, the necessity, of rendering it a convenient port, has been so strongly felt, that, to this object, the attention of the citizens has been most eagerly and successfully directed. Seventy years since, the depth of the Clyde, at the mouth of the Kelvin, was, accord- ing to a survey made by the celebrated James Watt, only 3 feet, 8 inches, at high water, and 1 foot, 6 inches, at low water. Twenty years after, no vessels of more than forty tons burden could come up to Glasgow. Twenty- two years since, the river was navigrable to the Broomielaw for vessels of 170 or 180 tons, and drawing 9 feet, 6 inches of water. Within fourteen years after, vessels drawing 13 feet, 6 inches, could reach the city ; and now vessels from all the quarters of the globe, some of them of upwards of 600 tons burden, and drawing 16 or 17 feet of water, are frequent^ ly to be seen lining in triple rows nearly the whole length of the har- bour. In the year from July 1816 to July 1817, the revenue of the river was ll 7028, Os. 7d. This year it exceeded L. 40,000. A new quay, faced with blocks of granite, and about 2000 feet in length, has lately been formed on the south side of the Clyde. A magnificent plan has been formed for still further widening and deepening the river, and building ample docks on the south bank. It is proposed to apply for a Parliamentary loan of L. 300,000, to assist in carrying this plan into efioct. In its progress through the county of Lanark, to which, till it passes Glasgow, its course is wholly confined, this fine river receives many tributary streams. Of these, besides the Daer already mentioned, the principal are the Duneaton, which, rising at the foot of Cairntahle, flows through the parish of Craw- 944 GENERAL OBSEllVATIONS fordjohn, and, for some miles before joining the Clyde, has an average breadth of about 40 feet ; the Douglas, which, flowing through the beautiful dale to which it gives name, &Us into the Clyde, near Harper6eld, a little above the Bonningtoo Falls ; the Culter, which, passing through a pretty glen, divides the parish of the same name ; the Medwins, north and south, the former of which, rising on the north-east of the parish of Can^ wath, and pursuing a south-west course, is joined in the south of the parish by its sister stream, which rises near Garvaldfoot, io the parish of West Linton, after a course of nine miles, about a mile and a half from the junction of the united streams with the Clyde; the Mouse, which, rising in the north of Carnwath, flows in a west- ward course through the centre of Carstairs parish, still and slug* gish, but, on entering the parish of Lanark, winds through the pe- culiarly bold and picturesque glen of Cartlane Craigs, soon after emerging from which it falls into the Clyde, opposite the village of KirkBeld bank ; the Nethan, which, rising in the west of Lesma* hago parish, and mutually giving and receiving beauty, as it winds among the 6ne seats that adorn its banks, falls into the Clyde at Clydesgrove, after passing the picturesque and interesting niia of Craignethan Castle, the Tillie Tudlem Castle of Old Mortality; the Avon, which, rising on theconfines of Ayrshire, flows through the parish of Avondale, dividing it into two nearly equal parts, through the parish of Stonehouse, being in one part of its course the boundary between that parish and Glassford, and separating it, on another, from Dalserf, then passes into Hamilton, at Millheugh Bridge, a little below which it forces its way through a rocky de- file of uncommon grandeur and picturesque effect; its banks often towering to the height of 230 and 300 feet, and crowned with aged oaks, and other hard-wood ; emerging from this defile it flows through the haughs of Hamilton, till it blends with the Clyde at Hamilton Bridge ; the South Calder, which, rising in the moor- land grounds near Tarrymuck, in Linlithgowshire, flows westward, forming, for upwards of nine miles, the boundary between the pa- rishes of Shotts and Carabusnethan ; it then turns to the north- west, separating Dalziel from Shotts, forming part of the southern boundary of Bothwell, and mingles with the Clyde, after a course of about twenty miles ; the North Calder, having its source near the farm of Bertram Shotts parish, and fiowing through Old Monk- land, falls into the Clyde at Daldowie ; — of both these streams, the banks are, in general, beautifully wooded, and adorned with many fine seals \ \\\e C^^^fti^x ^ii\.^t^^\^^ ^Uo the Rotten Calder, ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 946 ¥rhicb, rising in Eldrig moor, in the parish of Kilbride, and flowing through a considerable part of that parish under the name of Park burn, reaches the parish of Blantyre, at a point where it is joined by the Rottenburn, forms the boundary between that pa- rish and Kilbride, and Cambuslang, and falls into the Clyde at Turn wheel; the Kelvin, which, rising in Kilsyth parish, Stirlingshire, flows along the northern boundary of the county, bordeVing Govan parish on the east, and part of the Barony parish of Glasgow on the west, and joins the Clyde near the village of Govan. There are few lakes of any consequence in this county* The Craneloch in Dunsyre parish, elevated 800 feet above the water level, in a bleak inhospitable desert, is about a mile in circumfe- rence. The White Loch, to the west of the village of Carnwath, is about the same extent, but is finely wooded on the south and west sides. Langloch, to the south-east of the parish of Lanark, between the town of Lanark and Hyndford Bridge, although nar- row, is of considerable length. In Old Monkland are Bishop's Loch, covering a space of 80 acres, Woodend Loch, 50 acres, and Lochend, 40 acres. In Cadder parish there are two lochs, one of considerable extent in the centre of the parish, called Lum- loch, the other called Loch Grog, which, in consequence of drain- ing, are now almost dry, and capable of tillage ; besides these are Robroyston Loch, which is fast filling up ; Johnston Loch about a mile in circumference ; and Gartinqueen Loch, supplied by a streamlet from the parish of New Monkland. In the Barony pa- rish of Glasgow are the Slogganfield and Frankfield lochs, which supply streams for the town mills. But the largest and most im- portant lake in the county is the reservoir for supplying the Forth and Clyde and the Monkland canals. That reservoir is formed by art, and covers about 300 acres of land, situate in the parishes of New Monkland and Shotts. These canals themselves form, next to the Clyde, the most interesting feature in the hydrography of the county. The Monkland Canal, issuing from the above-men- tioned reservoir, proceeds nearly north-west to Glasgow, affording a cheap communication between that city and the collieries of Old and New Monkland, and yields a revenue of about L. 15,000. The Forth and Clyde Canal passes through the Barony parish and Carder. Geology and Mineralogy. — In the southern extremity of the coun- ty, the mountain ranges are chiefly composed of grey wacke and trap- rocks. These indeed are the predominant rocks in the extensive range of hills which runs from the confines of Ayrshire eastward to 946 GENKRAL OBSERVATIONS the Pentlands. These hills present an intefesting field to the 9tu« dent of geology, particularly as connected with the mineralogy of the county in general. According to the scientific view given by Mr Patrick, to whose able accounts of several of the parishes in this and some of the neighbouring counties this work is so greatly in- debted, " if we take the granite rocks of Galloway as the base, we have superincumbent upon them, 1. the greywacke of LeadhiUs and Wanlockhead," and he might have added of the moiiotain range in general to the south, south-west, and soodi-east of the county; ^' 2* the red sandstone over which the Clyde is precipitated at Lanark; and 3. the coal formation of the Middle and Lower Wards, con- sisting of bituminous shale, coal, grey limestone, grey sandstone and clay ironstone, thus afibrding a beautiful illustration of the transi- tion and carboniferous epochs." In the high regions of LeadhiUs and the vicinity, the sterility of the surface is compensated by the precious minerals which the earth contains in her bosom. Rich veins of lead, which ha^e been wrought for centuries, still yield annually about 700 tons. Silver is contained in the lead, but in too small quantity to repay the expense of extracting it. Gold is found disseminat- ed in minute particles through the till or clay nearest the rocks, and also occasionall yinterspersed in quartz. The search for this precious metal was at one time conducted on an extensive scale. James V. employed miners from Germany in this work, and had the gold thus procured, which was of very fine quality, wrought out into an elegant coin, bearing an effigies of himself, wearing a bonnet, and thence called the bonnet-piece. Copper ore has likewise been found here, and a vein of antimony was dis- covered towards the close of the last century. In the mineral dis- trict of LeadhiUs, which occupies a space of about three miles in length by two and a half in breadth, the strata of greywacke and greywacke slate are associated with transition clay-slate, in a verti- cal position, through which the metalliferous veins pass. A basaltic vein, from 50 to 60 yards in breadth, crosses from east to west, pre- senting detached masses on the surface, which have in many instan- ces a pentagonal form. A thick and vertical bed of flinty slate, de- generating on each side into a clayey substance, and through which the metallic veins dd not penetrate, occurs also among those transi- tion rocks, and points north-west and south-east. Irregular beds and masses of felspar rock are likewise to be met with. The principal \ead veu\s vuu south-east and north-west with a dip to the ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 947 east of one foot in three. Besides the common and the compact galena, which are the principal ores, these veins contain small quantities of green, black, and yellow lead ores, white and black carbonates, sulphate, and sulphato-carbonates of lead, phos- phates of lead, copper and iron pyrites, malachite, azure copper ore, grey manganese, blende, and calamine. Of the accompanying minerals, the most prevalent are, quartz, calcareous spar, brown spar, sparry ironstone, heavy spar, &c. Veins of lead have been found in the conterminous parish of Crawfordjohn, and might be wrought to advantage. Mineral indications, chiefly of heavy-spar, re- sembling that at Leadhills and Wanlockhead, induced attempts to discover lead at Cummertrees, in the high lands of Lesmahago, at Howgate Mouth on Tinto in Carmichael, and at Newholm in Dol- phinton, but without success. In most of the parishes in the Upper Ward ironstone is found ; but in none has it been wrought except in Carnwath and Carluke. At Wilsontown in Carnwath, an iron-work of considerable extent has been in operation since 1781, — except- ing an interval of nine years, from 1812 to 18*21. In Carluke, works have recently been commenced by the Shotts and Coltness Iron Companies, which have two furnaces in full operation : these works promise to be exceedingly productive. In Cambusncthan the black-band ironstone is found in considerable abundance; and at the eastern extremity of the parish, the Shotts Company have two blast- furnaces constantly employed. In the parish of Bertram Shotts there are two iron-works, the one in the south-east, the other ID the south-west of the parish. The former, established by a few private individuals in 1802, has ever since continued under > the very able and prosperous management of Mr John Baird. Besides two blast-furnaces, which produce 160 tons of pig-iron weekly, and a third, now nearly completed, there is connected with the establishment a large engineering manufactory, in which steam-engines and other machinery of the best quality are con- structed : and of still longer standing is its extensive foundery, se- cond in importance to that of the Carron Company. The Omoa Works, at the south-east of the parish, were erected in 1787, and have at present one furnace in operation. The parish of New Monkland abounds in ironstone of the most valuable kind, which is found partly in balls and partly in seams. The most common seams are, the mussel-band and the black-band ; the latter of which, particularly valuable, is generally found about fourteen fa- thoms below the splint coal. From iWis pm?\\ v\\e \xvi\\-\sw\v^ vi\ 948 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS Carron, Clyde, Calder, Gartsherrie, and Chapel Hall are partly supplied with ironstone. But it is in the parish of Old Monkland that the iron ma- nufacture is carried on to the greatest extent The seven companies who carry on this manufacture in the parish ha?e already 34 furnaces in blast, I out of blast, 4 in the process of building, and 18 contemplated. To give an idea of the energy with which this manufecture has been conducted, and of the ra- pidity with which it has extended, we may state, that, in 1794, only 3600 tons of pig-iron were produced with the consumption of 36,000 tons of coals ; in 1839, the produce of pig-iron was 176,800 tons, and the consumption of coals 530,400 tons. The magnificent and ingenious apparatus employed in these works, or in the course of preparation ; the activity of the workmen, with its stupendous results, exhibit a display of human ingenuity and industry, and of the power of science and skill, eminently worthy of the attention of the curious, and which cannot be seen without equal wonder and gratification. This parish itself, abounding as it does in ironstone of the best quality, cannot furnish a sufficient supply for these extensive works, which depend for their chief supplies on the adjoining parish of New Monkland. About nineteen pits of ironstone are wrought" in Old Monkland, producing the upper black-band, which is of inferior quality ; and the black- band, properly so called, which is particularly valuable, from the quantity of coal with which it is connected, and which renders much less fuel necessary in working it. This mineral is a certain source of wealth to the proprietor on whose lands it is found. On Rochsilloch, in New Monkland, the property of Sir William Alexander, an annual income of L. 12,600 is realized from this mineral ; while the same land, if let for tillatje, would not vield half as many hundreds. In that part of the Gorbals which be- longs to the parish of Govan, Mr William Dixon has extensive iron works, in which he has four hot-blast furnaces, and intends to erect as many more ; the average produce of the whole of which will be 4000 tons of pig-iron. He is likewise constructing a bar-iron manufactory, which is to have 42 puddling furnaces, calculated to produce 400 tons of bar-iron weekly. In coal-mines at Jordan- hill and Cartnavel, in this parish, there is found above the gas- coal a valuable seam of black-band ironstone from 10 to 15 inches thick ; and farther down are several seams of clay-band, ranging in thickness from 5 lo VI laches^ and yielding from 30 to S3 per cent, of iron. ON THE COUNTY OP LANARK. 949 A still more important part of the mineral treasures of Clydes- dale than its ironstone, is its coal, from which, indeed, the ironstone principally derives its value. The great coal-field which crosses Scotland from Fife to Ayrshire passes through this county, hav- ing a stretch of nearly thirty miles from Strathingo, near Glasgow, in the north, to the parish of Douglas in the south. Of this va- luable mineral there is a considerable variety of kinds. These and their geological position are so distinctly and accurately described by Naismith in his Agricultural Survey of Clydesdale, that I need make no apology for borrowing his account of them : ^^ A number of these strata or seams lie above that which is generally called, around the city of Glasgow, the upper coal^ because it is the first that is found worth digging to any extent This stratum is composed entirely of what is called rouffh coal in Scotland, ex- cept a small part near the middle of it, of the kind called splint. 2. About sixteen or seventeen &thams under that lies the ell coaly so called because it was first found of this thickness, but it is fre- quently from four to six feet thick. It is composed of two kinds, called yolk and cherry coal, with sometimes a parting of splint and sometimes not. This is a fine caking coal, or what is called in England a close-burning coal, and is much esteemed for the blacksmith's forge. 3. At from ten to seventeen fathoms below the last lies the seam called the main coal, from its possessing all the good qualities found in any of the other strata. It contains rough coalf splint and parrot^ or jet coal^ and is preferred to all the others as the most profitable. Its thickness is from 3^ to 9 feet Some- times a thin bed of stone is found about the middle of the seam, and the thickness is 10 feet 4. About 13 or 14 fathoms lower lies the humph coal. It consists of yolk and rough coal, with a thin parting of splint In some places it is without the splint and unworkable, being much interlaced with these laminae of stone and a kind of petrified black clay called blaise^ black bituminous shale, and slate clay. 5. Below the humph coal lies the hard coal, sometimes at fourteen fathoms distant It consists solely of splint and parrot coal, and is found to be the best in the county for the smelting of iron. It is also very good for family use. 6. At a fathom and a half lower is found the soft coal, from 30 inches to 6 feet thick. It is composed of the rough, yolk, and cherry coals, cakes much in burning, and is esteemed a good coal for the black- smith's forge. 7. About 13 or 14 fathoms below this lies a coal, called about Glasgow the sour-milk coal As it burns slowly, and LANARK. 3 P 950 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS affords but a weak heat, it is what the miners call a lean coal, and has therefore been but little wrought. There are a number of these seams under the sour^milk coal, all of a lean quality, and generally much interlaced with lamina of stone, blaise, or shiver, * Under the last mentioned have been found several strata of ei* cellent lime ; and more of these thin seams of coal again have been discovered under the lime, but all of them which have yet been tried are of a lean quality. The lime found near the surfiuse on the elevated ground is supposed to be a continuation of some one or other of the last mentioned strata, found under the cirnl, which, in the course of their natural rise, have come within reach, in the places where the superincumbent strata of coal and all its accom- panying fossils did not exist ; as lime worth the working has ne- ver yet been discovered above these coal strata, nor in any place, till after the valuable seams of coal have skirted put at the sur- face ; and any coal which has been found under the surfiice lime is of the same lean quality with that which lies under the deep buried strata of lime. The above is the number and order of the coal strata everywhere along the Clyde, where they are entire* However, this is not always the case. All the mineral strata lie inclining towards the river on both sides, generally somewhat obliquely, and with various degrees and directions of declivity, rising as they recede from it, till they skirt, or, as it is expressed by miners, crop out one after another; so that the 6rst coal which is found in some places is perhaps the third or fourth in the above- mentioned order. These are distinguished by the name of the Clyde strata, or seams of coal, and not only lie along the sides of that river, through all the plain country, but branch out less or more along the principal streams, on some of them to a great ex- tent. Besides these, there are other seams of coal in the county, of a somewhat different nature. In the parish of Shotts, a fine yolk coal is wrought resembling the coal found upon the sides of the Forth, and supposed to be a continuation of one of the same strata. Upon the sides of the Douglas River are extensive col- lieries, which supply some of the southern provinces where that fuel is wanting. The coal here is also similar to that on the Forth. On the south-west boundary of the county is coal of the same quality with that wrought on the coast of Ayrshire. It crops out at the surface about the middle of Avondale parish. There are still some other variations in the coal strata which merit attention. Near the northern boundary of the county aspecies is foiud ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 951 distinguished by the name of the blind-coal^ from its burning with in- tense heat without flame. This must no doubt have been deprived of the fixed air by means of subterraneous fire. It is used for the same parposes as coke, and even preferred to coke artificially made, its effluvia being still less offensive. The blind-coal is al- ways found under a covering of horizontal whin ; and where the same seam is traced till it comes under the freestone rock, its qua- lities are entirely changed, and it becomes in every respect the common pit*coal. Another species of coal, the qualities of which are directly opposite to those of the last, is found in different parts of the county. It is here called the candle (cannel) or light coaly and is said to be the parrot or jet coal of the third seam in the above enumeration, divested of the other kinds which accompany it when the seam is complete. But when this is found alone it seems to be still more exquisitely inflammable : it takes flame the moment it is brought in contact with the fire, and a small fragment of it may be carried about in the hand like a flambeau, and will continue for a long time to give a vivid light" At Auchinheatb, and other two places in the parish of Lesmahago, the finest coal of this kind to be met with in Scotland, is wrought. It supplies Glasgow and other places with gas, for which it is peculiarly adapted ; and is in such demand, that it is sold at the coal-hill for 86. a ton. To enable our readers to form some estimate of the importance of the coal-fields of Clydesdale, we may mention, that it has been computed to contain 55,000 acres, or about 1 10 square miles. Taking the medium thickness of the whole field at 5 yards, there will be in each mile 15,448^000 cubic yards, and in the whole field 1,703,680,000 cubic yards of coal. Through the whole range of the coal district limestone abounds. It is generally found bepeath the seventh seam of coal, about 73 fathoms below the upper coal* It is fpund pear the surface only in places which are somewhat elevated, after the freestone co^l and ac- companying strata have skirted out, apd are no longer to be found. It is most frequent on the north and west of the Clyde, particularly in the parishes of Kilbride, Avondale, Glassford, Stonehaven, Lesmahago, Douglas, and the higher parts of Hamilton and Blan- tyre. On the east, it is found in Carluke and Carnwath. The strata of limestone are, in general, nearly horizontal. In 1829, and for some successive years, the gas issuing from the fissures of the limestone rock, on the property of Holoos, in 952 GKNBRAL OBSERVATIONS Cadder, rose through the earthy and even the water on its sur- face. It was easily kindled with a match, and burned brilliantly on the surface of the water. Freestone, another concomitant of coal, is found in every part of the coal district It is of very varied appearance and quali- ties ; and it is a fact not unworthy the attention of the geolo^t, that, on the south and west of the Clyde, white freestone predomi- nates ; while, on the east of the river, it is more generally red, parti- cularly towards* the surface. To this general fact, however, there are some exceptions. Mr Patrick informs us that a stratum of the new, or upper red sandstone, stretches along the whole of the western parts of Bothwell, and penetrates into several of the neighbouring parishes, covering a great part of the south-west edge of the coal basin of the Clyde. This freestone is in general compact, and well suited for building ; and its range is pretty distinctly marked out to the eye of the traveller, by the general colour of the houses and other buildings. Where both red and white freestone occur, the former is near the surface, and the latter at a considerable depth beneath some of the seams of coal. In Dalserf, Lesmaba- go, and Douglas parishes, freestone of a beautiful white colour abounds ; and at Nethan foot, in Lesmahago, there is a quarry of freestone of a white ground, and so beautifully veined and clouded as to resemble marble. A yellow freestone, which Mr Patrick thinks of the same sort as what is found in Dumbartonshire above the old red sandstone, occurs in Wiston, on Kennox water in Douglas, and near Monk's head, on the confines of Dduglas and Lesmahago. In Dalziel parish, is found a very hard rough-grain- ed freestone, abounding with unequal grains of quartz, unequalled for resisting* the action of both weather and fire. Of this stone the bridge near Hamilton was built. Tinto-hill, rising between the parishes of Carmichael, Covington, Symington, and Wiston, presents rocks of old red sandstone conglomerate ; but the predo- minant rocks are compact felspar, and felspar porphyries, with subordinate masses of greenstone. In the other parishes, on the eastern verge of the county, grey wacke is the predominating rock. Organic Remains. — The organic remains of Clydesdale, as might be expected from the account given of its minerals, are numerous and interesting. Shells of various kinds, corals, and fossil trees, are found among the strata of limestone. One fossil tree, discovered eight or nine years since, in the lime quarries of Wiston, was sent io Edinburgh, and was found to be of a species unknown before. ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 953 Near Calderside, in Blantyre, part of a tree completely petriBed rises out of the bed of the river. From the stem, only part of which remains in an upright growing position, proceed two root shoots, each from 13 to 14 inches in diameter. It appears to be composed of a close-grained whitish sandstone, with small specks of mica,'and dotted with spots of oxide of iron, as minute as needle points. On the banks of the Kelvin, in Govan parish, nearly thirty fossil trees were, several years ago, discovered standing close to one another, and in their natural position. Not more than two feet of the trunks, however, remained attached to the roots. They appear to belong to the dicotyledonous class. To the geologist, however, the most interesting organic phenomena are the remains of plants, shells, and animals, some of them of genera now extinct, or unknown, which are found in the strata of coal, freestone, and lime.* In these, the strata in the parish of Carluke appear to be particularly rich. In Bothwell, Hamilton, Blantyre, Lesmahago, Douglas, and indeed through the whole extent of the coal district, interesting organic remains occur ; and few counties could present a more inviting or instructive field to the geologist. Altitudes, — The eminences in Lanarkshire, which are entitled to the appellation of mountains, are in the hilly ranges of the Up- per Ward. On the borders of Ayrshire is Cairntable, 1650 feet above the level of the sea; near the Dumfries borders, are the Lowthers, the loftiest summit of which is 31 10 feet ; Tinto, 2350 feet above the sea level, and 1740 feet above the Clyde ; Culter Fell, 2330 feet; Dunsyre hill, 1235 feet; Dolpbinton hill, 1550 feet In the Middle and Lower Wards, the ground is in general of so moderate elevation, that, from a spot not above 150 feet above the level of the sea, all the heights of the Isle of Arran, fifly miles distant, may be seen in a clear day. Meteorology. — In the Lower Ward, situate on an isthmus little more than thirty miles broad, between the Forth and the Clyde, which opens gradually to the German and Atlantic Oceans, the temperate influence of the sea breeze is felt more or less through- out the year. The west and south-west winds prevail for about two* thirds of the year ; and, sweeping over the vast Atlantic, un- broken by any intervening land, they come, surcharged indeed with vapour, yet in all the mildness of the ocean temperature. The * In a bed of stratified clay in Govan, at least 80 feet above tbe level of the set, 150 species of shells have been found, nearly a tenth part of which is not known to exist in the present seas. Of these Mr Smith of Jordanbill has formed a catalogue. 954 GENERAL OBSEBVATIONS easterly winds, which, blowing oyer a wide continent and a narrot sea, are colder, have their force broken by the high lands on the eastern side of the county, so that the cold heavy fogs, so preva- lent on the east coast, seldom pay their unkindly visits here. In- tense frosts and deep snows are neither frequent, nor, when they occur, lasting. The summer's temj^erature, however, is lowered by the vapours which the prevailing winds bring from the Atlan- tic ; and which, intercepted by [the heights of the counties of Ren- frew and Dumbarton, fall in frequent and heavy showers. In the flatter country farther up the Clyde, where the current of air passes with scarce the interruption of a single height betweeli the ocean and the river, rains are less frequent And in the trough of Clyde, the dense column of air buoying up the clouds, sometimes pre- vents the lands in the hollow from receiving the rains with which the ridges on either side are drenched. While the west and south- west winds prevail, the rain fells in repeated showek^ between short intervals of fair weather. Next to these, the most prevalent wind is the north-east, which is generally accompanied with fair but cold weather. The south wind generally brings heavy rain, but of short continuance. The heaviest and most lasting rain, though not the most frequent, is from the south-east. It was probably from the weather which prevailed while Agricola was erecting ramparts on the northern confines of this county, that Tacitus drew his de- scription of the Caledonian weather, which is still applicable to the climate of the Lower Ward : " Coelum crebris imbribus ac nebulis foedum ; asperitas frigorum abest.*' In the Upper Ward, where the distance from either sea is great, tbe influence of the sea-breeze is less felt. Frequent and lofty eminences intercept the current of air from sea to sea. The weather, thought not exempt from insular variableness, is steadier, the winter's cold more severe, and the summer's heat more intense. Rains are more frequent than in the Middle Ward. In the upper extremity of the county especially, where lofty summits intercept the clouds, heavy rains oflen fall, — mists cover the hills, — the winters are tedious and se- vere, — and the heats of summer are often interrupted by chilling blasts. In the Accounts of Crawford and Biggar, the reader will find meteorological tables, from which he may form a tolerably ac- curate idea of the climate of the Upper Ward. For the meteo- rology of the Middle Ward, we refer him to a similar table in the Account of Dalserf ; and of the meteorology of the Lower Ward. 8 ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 955 he will find accurate statements in the Accounts of Bothwell and Glasgow. Agriculture^ Sfc. — Although so laige a proportion of this county is occupied by ooiountain and moor, and, although, even in much of the arable country, the humidity and coldness of the climate are evib with which the agriculturist finds it difficult to contend ; yet there is perhaps no county in Scotland in which agricultural enterprise is active, and the march of improvement is more steadily and rapidly progressive. The energy of its commercial industry is com- municated by sympathy and example to its rural labour ; and the influence of its commercial wealth is everywhere visible in the scale of its farming operations, and the spirit with which they are con- ducted. To say that all the improvements in agriculture are readily adopted in this county, is not to give its agriculturists their due meed of praise, unless we take into account the obstacles by which they might be discouraged, and the perseverance and often the ingenuity by which they are surmounted. Not only is the surface of the land improved, and its fertility increased, but even its climate is greatly meliorated by the exertions of an enlightened industry. This industry is at once stimulated and assisted by the means and facilities which the commercial resources of the county afford, and the streams of welalth which are ever issuing from Glasgow as a grand reservoir, spread richness and beauty over not only the adjacent portions of the county, but over its remotest ex- tremities. To these beneficial effects, the ambition of the opulent citizens of Glasgow to become landed proprietors, essentially contributes. Much capital is thus invested in the purchase and the improve- ment of land, wherever it can be obtained. Splendid mansions, with the requisite accompaniments of lawns, pleasure-grounds, and plantations, now delight the eye in many places where it was former- ly offended with the squalid slovenliness of indolence or poverty. The unsparing application of capital spreads an air of comfort and elegance over all the vicinity of these abodes of wealth ; and spots which, not many years ago, lay in a state of natdre, unseemly and unproductive, now wear the smiling aspect of plenty and beauty. A considerable proportion of the county, indeed, is in the pos- session of ancient families, whose large estates, held by the tenure of entail, cannot enjoy, except in the vicinity of the family resi- dence, the same advantages as smaller properties of more recent 956 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS acquisition, occupied by persons whose active habits engage them eagerly in the business of improvement Yet, even over these large estates the spirit ojf improvement has passed. Tenants readily adopt, and landlords in general liberally encourage, any change of system which promises to be beneficial ; and the marked improve- ment of both stock and tillage does ample credit to the enterprise and intelligence of store-farmers and agriculturists, and to the en- lightened liberality with which these are fostered. In some instances, the proprietors themselves, and in particular the greatest proprietor in the Upper Ward, take the lead as im- provers of our rural economy. The influence of their example is beyond calculation beneficial, spreading even to the remotest of their tenantry. In their more inmiediate vicinity, this influ- ence is of course more perceptible, seconded as it necessarily is by the more particular attention which they are led to pay to places under their daily observation. On the lands in their own occupation, the efiects of this improving spirit are more especially apparent. Year after year these lands rise, under their judicious management, in increasing beauty and fertility ; and the traveller who has an opportunity of marking these progressive changes, and of comparing their present state with what it was within his own not very remote recollection, is impressed with a deep and delight- ed conviction of the benefit conferred upon a land by such resi- dent proprietors. These are the men who are best entitled to the praise of substantial patriotism — being essential benefactors to their country. And while they see around them a pleased and hap- py peasantry constantly maintained in their employment ; a neigh- bouring population thriving by the circulation thus given to a part of their wealth ; while the effects of their improving operations open progressively to their view ; while new schemes of improvement are constantly occupying their minds, and they anticipate, in enlight- ened speculation, the results of these schemes in distant futurity — their lot is surely as enviable as their example is laudable ; and they open up to themselves sources of rational and salutary gratification, which would be poorly exchanged for all that courts or cities could offer. Ancient Families, — The most considerable of the ancient families which still hold possessions in Lanarkshire, are the Ducal family of Hamilton, of which the Belhaven and Dalziel families are branches. The Douglas, longthe first family in rank and power, next to the royal family in Scotland, still lineally represented, though latterly through ON THE COUNTY OF LANARK. 9&7 the female line, by Lord Douglas of Douglas. Of this family the Douglases of Rosehall, and Douglas Park, in this county , are bran- ches. The Lockharts of Lee, of which the present representative is Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart, Bart, with their branches, the Lockharts of Castlehill and Milton Lockhart, Cleghorn, &c. The late noble family of Hyndford, now represented by Sir Wind- ham Carmichael Anstruther ; of this family the Carmichaels of East End form a branch. The Baillies of Lamington, represented by Mr Cochrane Baillie, son of Sir Thomas Cochrane of Mur- . dieston; the Rosses of Bennington, represented by SirCharles Ross ; the Colebrookes of Crawford by Sir Edward Colebrooke. The Stewarts of Coltness became extinct in the person of the late Ge- neral Sir James Stewart. The Stewarts of Allanton are now re- presented by Sir Henry James, son of the late Sir Reginald Mac- donald Seton Stewart of Allanton, &c. and maternal grandson of Sir Henry Stewart of Allanton. The Veres of Stonebyres, and of Blackwood, &c Family Mansions.'^ Among the most remarkable family man- sions are, Hamilton Palace, the truly princely residence of the Duke of Hamilton; Douglasand Bothwell Castles, the seats of Lord Dou- glas ; the former having been commenced in the time of the Duke of Douglas, after a magniBceut plan by the celebrated Adam, but still unfinished ; the latter, a'plain,but large and commodious build- ing, forming a remarkable contrast to the ruin of the old castle, one of the noblest relics of baronial grandeur to be seen in the kingdom ; Carstairs House, the splendid residence of Henry Monteath, Esq. ; Bennington House, the seat of Sir Charles Ross; and Corehouse, the romantic mansion of Lord Corehouse, on the opposite sides of the Clyde, near the falls of Bennington and Cora Linn ; Stonebyres House, a fine old mansion, on the west of the Clyde, near the Stonebyres Fall; Lee House, the magnificent mansion of Sir Norman Macdonald Lockhart ; Mauldslie Castle, an elegant turreted structure on the Clyde, built, after a design of Adam, by Thomas Earl of Hyndford, now the property of his grandnephew, Mr Nesbit of Carfin ; Milton- Lockhart, a splendid specimen of the manorial style, after the plan of Burn, set down by the present proprietor in a most beautiful situation on the Clyde; Dalziel House« the seat of Hamilton of Dalziel ; Cambusnethan Priory, a splendid Gothic structure, after a design of Mr Gillespie Graham, in one of the finest situations on the Clyde, the seat of Mr Lockhart of Castlehill ; Wishaw House, the seat of Lord 958 GENERAL OB8BRVATIONS BelhaveD ; Coltoess Hoii8e» now in the possession of Mr Houlds* worth ; AUanton Hpuse^ the beautiful seat of Sir James Heory Maedonald Stewart ; Woodhall, the seat of Mr Campbell of Ua ; ' Cleland House; the seat of Mr North Dalrymple ; Douglas Park, .beloDgiug to Mrs Douglas; RosehalU the property of General Pye Douglas $ Airdrie House, the seat of Sir William Alexan- der ; Newtou Houses belougiog to Sir James Montgomerf of Stanh(^ ; Monkland House, the seat of the Hoo« William El> .phidstone ; Castlemilk, the property of James Stirling Stirling, Esq. Many elegant houses besides these are to be met with in different parts of the county. The Lower Ward especially is thickly studded with seats and villas; but a mere enumeratiim of ihe principal mansions is all that our present limits admit. More detailed descriptions of them will genen&lly be found in the ac» counts of the parishes in which they are situate. In commercial importance Lanarkshire ranks far above any other county in Scotland. Glasgow, which rivals Manchester in its manu- jGGictures,mayalreadybetermeddie Scotch Liverpool for trade. The rapid advances which Glasgow has made within the last half century ; the vast improvements which have been effected in the navigation of the Clyde, and the magni6cent plans for its further improvement, which have been recently undertaken, — the striking fact, thatvessds of more than 600 tons burthen, drawing 16 or 17 feet of water, can now pass,, where the river, only seventy years ago, was not two feet deep, — and that the river and harbour dues, which in 1771 were only L.1021, now exceed L.40,000, — warrant the most sanguine anticipations of the future increase of its trade. In no city on the face of the globe, indeed, is enterprise more active, or in general more successful, and, in none, perhaps, have a greater number of fortunes been amassed, — in many instances by individuals of the lowest origin, — than in Glasgow. The original source of its prosperity, and still the staple of its trade, is its manufacture of cotton, which is carried on in all its va- rious branches, and to a degree of perfection which is nowhere surpassed. The finer fabrics, except of complex patterns, are wrought chiefly in power-looms, the number of which in Glasgow, in 1885, was 15,127. The number of hand*looms in the city and 9uburbs was, in the same year, 18,537, and employed by Glasgow manufacturers in other towns, 13^468. Of the latter, however, a considerable number may be supposed to be in other counties. In Glasgow and its vicinity, there are now many establishments on a ON THE COUNTY OF LANAKK. 959 great scale, for the spinning of cotton thread ; but the most ex- tensive establishment of this kind in the county is that of New Lanark, founded by Mr David Dale, for many years under the su- perintendence of the noted Robert Owen, and now belonging to* the firm of Walker and Company. Upwards of 1100 persons are employed in the establishment ; and the neatness of the buildings for both the mills and dwellings, — the beauty of their situation amid the most interesting scenery of the Clyde, — the cleanliness and or- der with which they are kept, — and the judicious regulations for the comfort and moral decency of the operatives, — render it one of the most interesting factories that are anywhere to be found. The Blan-> tyre Spinning Mills, originally founded likewise by Mr Dale, em- ploys 458 persons, and are also under very judicious management They are the property of Messrs Henry Monteath and Company. Means of Communication* — In a county of such commercial im- portance, the means of communication are of course particularly at- tended to. Its roads in every direction are of the best description. The great English road by Carlisle, in particular^ planned by Mr Telford, is one of the best in the kingdom. A new line of road from Edinburgh to Ayr, and traversing this county from Cambusnethan to Strathavon, was opened some years ago. The old road by Camwath and Douglas is likewise well kept. New lines of road have, within the last few years, been opened.toDumfries from Glasgow by Lanark and Chesterhall, and from Edinburgh by Biggar and Chesterhall ; and in general, throughout the county, there is abundant facility of com- munication by excellent roads. New bridges, too, have been re- cently thrown across the Clyde, of which, besides the Glasgow Bridge, we may particularly mention two handsome bridges at Cessford and Milton- Lockhart, — the latter built at the sole ex- pense of the spirited proprietor of that estate. It has been for some time in contemplation to have a railway between Gksgow and Carlisle. Eminent engineers have been employed to survey the intervening country, with the view of determining the most eligible line ; but so many circumstances are to be taken into ac* count that it is difficult to come to a decision. 963 QBNBRAL OBSERVATIONS, &C. Table IL— ShewiDg Extent, &c of Parishes in the County of A..racul- u». »,. Acr»in iTaiHl or [«»- MP Atr« Puriiliea. p.rUh. tilllgl EullivMed »f CUltiT »iU.p™f ^od^ L*»uk, 8986 6500 2436 _, 600 SoMcb >cr<*M>Md »I000 21000 13000 1000 1650 Do. Liblwtan 4iid 8708 5*08 3300 300 a» IMphrnloi.,' 3300 9000 12U0 3S0 30O Sroteli acra FUud. Dui»rri, . 13030 3000 10030 awo 30 C.r..-.th. 25193 8397 l«796 4400 400 Scutch acrn niicd Wiiicii & Uo- 1067) 37B3 7088 1500 200 ClMgoir.' _ _ _ _ N. MunUaad, IluiiilWn, 12340 8000 4240 2000 GlHlbrd, 6506 440 Scotdi tcta nucd. ATonikle, 32000 16000 IBOOO Blmilyrc. . 4170 3670 500 Crawford. 7S000 1200 7S8U0 150 Culter, . 11547 3090 7557 435 Biggif, . 5852 4572 1280 750 Scotch >cn* tuitd. Alt. Cdd.r, .' 8700 400 -*3a5 4125 200 DalilL-l, . 23S3 1873 410 410 Scotch «ret nsied. 6000 aooo Do. DouttlsB, 29004 3816 24IB8 1492 Do. Crawforctjolm 21123 32(HJ 17923 m Do. Cwmichiicl, 9252 4702 45511 735 Do. PMlir.«m, 32-20 2320 noo 100 C.r.l«r». . IIRM) 9936 1904 5110 400 C«1uke. . 153(i0 14053 131)7 600 Cumuonock, ■2810 2400 410 250 Scotch' sens iisud. 20000 10lHtf, . 57-^ All. Bolhwpll. 13«» All. W.ndL-1! and Lammiiigton. Wnlston. . 6099 22»0 3S19 _ — 2901 1121 38 8jmmg,„,., 2754 1953 801 113 Scotch «cr« JUti^. Co.il,gtOD & Tbickerton, - 2000 3500 600 80 ExtKilbridi' — — — — m Shoilt Acres cultivate -The acm uiicultiialcd i and uncultivated here conjectural. See lude Iho« capable of cultivatloQ, tai I INDEX. Agriculture and rural economy, 20, 37, 44. 58, 71, 85, 96, 245, 277. 298, 307, 821, 332, 348, 364, 387, 400, 433, 455, 473, 486, 506, 527, 541, 556, 587, 603, 622, 629, 656, 695, 741, 794, 824, 861, 871, 875, 894 Agriculture and rural economy, general, of the county, 955 Alton, William, the botanist, birth-place of, 787 Airdrie, town of, 246 — mineral springs of, 243 Allan Ramsay, birth-place of, 330 Allanton castle, 620 Anderson, Rev. Patrick, ejection and persecution of, 858 Andersonian University, the, 179 Anglesea, Marquis of, 845 Antiquities, 362, 383, 406, 429, 451, 471, 484, 503, 525, 553, 580. 601, 651, 690, 693, 733, 787, 817, 854, 869, 890 Auchter water, the, 609 Avon water, the, 254, 302, 470 Avondale, parish of, 301 Baillie, Dr Biiathew, 628 — bequest of, 617 Baillie, Joanna, birth-place of, 787 Baillie of Lammingtoune, family of, 813 Bamcluith, the gardens of, 271 Basket mines, the, 317 Belhaven, family of, 616 Beltane fires on Dechmont, 430 Bertram Sfaotts, parish of, 624 Biggar, parish of, 354 — battle of, 358 — town of, 366 — water, 355 Binning, Rev. Hugh, 682 Bimie, Rev. William, 15, 452 Blackmount, 847 Blantyre, parish of, 314 — mills, 322 — priory, ruins of, 320 — village of, 323, 325 Boat, remains of an ancient, dug up, 601 Boghall, castle of, 363 Boghouse, castle of, 502 Bonnington house, 18 Borland caves, 850 Bothland bum, 401 Botany, 9, 54, 264, 303, 319, 342, 356, 403, 424, 448, 521, 551, 576, 612, 628, 673, 728, 776, 851 Bothwell, parish of, 765— bridge, 789 LANARK. —battle of, 266, 779,— castle, 783, 787 — ruins of old church of, 788 Bothwellhaugh, site of, 784 Bower of Wandell, ruins of, 818 Boyd, James, first Protestant Archbishop of Glasgow, 405 Boyd, Principal, 679 Bridges, andent, at Mouss hill, 24 — over the Cadzow, 285 — over the Clyde at Glasgow, 218 Broom hill house burnt by the English, 733 Brown, William, mortification by, 62 Buchanan, Claudius, birth-place of, 429 Building Societies at Larkhall, 760 Burnet, Bishop, 734 Burnet, Rev. John, ejection of, 888 Burying-place, ancient, 651 Busby, viUage of, 599, 605 Cadder, parish of, 391 Cadzow bum, 255 — castle, ruins of, 255, 269— bridge, 285 Cairn-gryffe hill, 536 Caimtablc hiU, 479 Calder water, 315, 419, 445, 608, 642 Calder>vood house, 879 Calico-printing, 149 Cambusbmg, parish of, 416 — revivals at, 425 Cambusnethan, parish of, 608«— house, 615 — ruins of old church of, 614 Cameron, Mrs Jean, 889 Cameronian regiment, first formation of, 118,482 Camps, andent, at Keir hill, &c. 57. See Roman. Canals, the Forth and Clyde, 202, 699 — the Glasgow and Johnstone, 699 — the Monkland, 203, 604— the Pais- ley and Ardrossan, 204 — the Union, 204 Cander water, the. 720 Carfin, collieries of, 951 Cargill, Donald, capture of, 874 — and death of, 70 Carluke, parish of, 563 Carmichael, parish of, 517 — ministers of, from 1569, 582 Carmunnock, parish of, 597 — village of, 605 Cambroe iron works, 797 Camwath, parish of, 76 — village of, 88 Cairstars, parish of, 547 — patronage of, 3q 964 LANARKSHIRE. 561 — CMtle, 106— bouse, 548— vil- of. 560 Cartlane Crags, scenery of, 4 — bridge, 24 Castlebill, remains of tbe, 13 Cathkin bill, 597 Caves at Borland, 850 Cbancellor of SbieldbUl, famUy of, 42 Cbapelbill, 345— iron works, 796 Cbapel Rone, 733 Cbaracter and babits of tbe people, 34, 44, 97, 293, 347, 527, 540, 586, 603, 694, 739, 793, 822, 894 Cburcb building sodety, institution and operations of, 904 Cburcbes and cbapels connected witb tbe Establisbment, 25, 38, 46, 61, 73, 89, 98, 246, 286, 299, 310, 325, 338, 350, 368, 394, 411 438, 464, 475, 490, 512, 531, 545, 561, 592, 605, 615, 631, 665, 711, 751, 799, 839, 863,871,875,899 Cleland testimonial, tbe, 226 Climate. See Meteorology. Clyde, tbe, 4, 196,315,419, 942— dues on tbe at Glasgow, 198— falls of, 5, 936— improvements of, 196, 946— tides in, 239 — tributaries to, 913 — union of untb tbe Tweed, 942 Coal-fields and collieries, 257, 420, 480, 566, 446, 610, 625, 643, 672, 723, 774, 796, 881 Coal-fields, general observations on, 949 Coal, cannel, of Auchinbeatb, 951 Cochrane, Lord, early lite of, 267 Cock-figbtiiig, prevalence of, in Glasgow, 211 Coltness house, 617 Constuntine, King of Cornwall, settles at Govan, 675 Couthalley Castle, ruins of, 83 Covenant, renewal of the, at Auchen- saugh, 479, 485 Covenanters, armed assemblage of, at Ruthcrglen, 380 — defeat of by Lam- bert, 265 — persecution of, 296 Covington and Thankerton, united pa- rishes of, 872 Covington, village of, 875 Craignethan castle, ruins of, 33 Craneloch, the, 66 Crawfordjohn, parish of, 497 Crawfurd, castle of, 331 — parish of, 327 —village of, 337 Crime, statistics of, 214, 292 Cromwell visits Glasgow, 116 CuUen, Dr, 628— birth place of, 267 Culter, parish of, 340 Customs, ancient, preserved in Ruther- glen, 383 Dairy husbandry, 87, 409, 435, 486, 743, 861, 897 Dalserf, Ferry of, 748 — ^parish oC 719 — village of, 726 Darngaber, ruios of the csstle of, 270 David I., gift of Gotbii by, to St Muo- go,702 Dalzell bum, 445— famfly of, 44ft- bouse, 453--old cburcb of, destroyed, 465 — parish of, 442 Decbmont, ancient customs oonnecCcd witb, 417 Defeat of Edward L by Wallace at Big. gar, 358 Deluge, traces of tbe, 7 Devonsbaw bill, 806 Dissenters and Dissenting chapels, 26, 38, 47, 62^90, 98, 247, 289, 351, 368. 394, 439, 475, 490, 512, 532, 561, 593, 605, 615, 633, 714, 739, 752, 755, 800, 864, 899 DolpUnton, parish of, 49 Doomster hill, 690 Double dikes, encampment at, 471 Douglas ancient monuments in the church of, 491— casde o^ 481, 488 — £umly of, 483 — parish of, 477— village of, 488 — water, 479 Druidical remains at Avonh 70, 84, 95, 125, 129, 244, 275, 297, 305, 312, 381, 346, 864, 385, 406, 431, 454, 473, 485, 504> 526, 540, 555^ 585, 602. 621, 629, 651, 698, 736, 789, 821, 860, 870, 875, 892 Populhtion, character of the, 19, 44, 95, 306, 847, 454, 506, 527, 540, 586, 694, 789, 793, 822. 894 Produce. See Agriculture Protestant Association of Glasgow, its formation, 901 Powmillon water, 879 Quarries, Auchin heath, 18 Quarries, freestone, 280, 423, 530, 590, 648, 725, 796, 898 Quarries, limestone, 21, 316, 530, 569, 850, 881. 898 Quarries, slate, 333 Quaw, ruins of the Castle of, 13 UNIVERSITY OF MIChIoAN 3 9015 0S374 2481 I UNivERsrry of michiqan 3 9015 083742491