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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I JS7 NS 4 THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. VOL. XL . t . •*. THE NEW \*i>- - \- V y STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. BY THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. VOL. XI. / FORFAR-KINCABDINE. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. • . • FORFAR. :y*£-*r '^*-' CONTENTS. ABBRLBMNO, PAGE 6S6 AIRLIB, 670 ARBIRLOT, 332 ARBROATH, 74 AUCBTBRHOUSB, 648 BARRIE, 659 BRBCHIN, 129 CARBSTON, 518 CARMTLIB, 351 CORTACHY AND CLOYA, 434 CRAIG, 244 DUN, 123 DUNDBB, 1 DUNNICHEN, 142 BASSIE AND NBVAY, 475 EDZBLL, 621 FARNBL1., 109 FEARN, 311 FINHAVBN OR OATHLAW, 291 FORFAR, 691 FOWLI8, 460 GLAMMISS, 337 GLBNISLA, 421 GUTHRIE, 489 INYERARITT, 234 INVBRKEILOR, 239 KBTTINS, 641 KINOOLDRUM, 611 KINNELL, 393 KIN NETTLES, 206 KIRKDBN, 383 KIRRIRMUIR, 158 LBTHNOT AND NAVAR, . . . 687 LIFF AND BENYIK, 568 LINTRATHEN, 640 LOCHLBE, 191 LOGIB PERT, 263 LUNAN, 320 LUNDIB AND FOWLIS, 455 VUl CONTENTS. MAINS AND STRATRMARTINE, PAGE 54 MARYTOWN, 115 MENMUIR, .... 656 MONIFIETH, . . . 539 MONIKIE, . . 485 MONTROSE, . . 271 MURROBS, .... 591 NEWTVLE, . . . • . 558 OATULAW OR FINIIAVEN, . 291 PANRRIDR, ... 67 RBSCOBIE, .... 596 RUTHVEN, .... 413 ST VIGEANS, .... 489 STRICKATHROW, , . . 662 TANNADICE, .... 198 TRALING, .... 378 ■ ^ 5a^»3'!as8'ima«Jtrm:iS. Wi^fj ^^^fe^^^' K' ^^^pi^~* * ^^^K "^ ff ' -.^ ■ 1 PARISH OF DUNDEE. PRESBYTERY OF DUNDEE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. Ministers of the Old and South Churches^ THE REV. ARCHIBALD M*LACHLAN, D. D. THE REV. PATRICK M*VICAR, D.D. THE REV. CHARLES ADIE, D. D. Ministers of the Cross and Steeple Churches^ THE REV. JAMES THOMSON, M. A. THE REV. ALEXANDER PETERS, D.D. Minister of St David* Sy * THE REV. GEORGE TOD.' I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries^ ^c. — Dundee, a large manufacturing town and parish, is situate on the northern bank of the river Tay, about sixty miles from its source, and twelve from the open sea. The name was anciently written Dunde or Dundie. Some regard it as a contracted form of Dei Donum, which is the designation of the town in law Latin. There can be no doubt, however, that the word is Celtic, and was originally either Dunde or Duntaw, (in Latin Taodunum ;) the former signifying the Hill of God, the latter the Hill of Tay, — both probably in allusion to an insulat- ed conical hill immediately behind the town, which rises to the height of about 525 feet above the level of the river, and which would in all probability be the first object to receive a name from our Celtic forefathers. The parish extends along the river about six miles. At its west- ern branch it is about two miles broad, but it gradually narrows towards its eastern limits, at which it strikes off from the river at right angles, so as to extend above five miles in a northerly direc- tion. The Tay forms the boundarj- of the parish on the south ; * In this Account the branch of Natural History has been drawn up by Mr M*"Vicar; Civil History by Dr Adic; Population by Dr Peters and the Rev. G. Tod ; Industry by the Rev. J. Thomson ; Parochial Economy !)y the Ilev. G. Tod. FORFAR. A 2 FORFARSHIRE. the united parishes of Liff and Benvie on the west; the united parishes of Mains and Strathmartine on the north; and the parishes of Murroes and Monifieth on the east. Climate. — All those places lying to the south of the line of great- est elevation, (which runs nearly east and west,) possessing not only a better exposure to the sun, but also his reflexion from the • river in summer, and the radiation from it in winter, enjoy a finer climate than those situate on the northern aspect And of all the places in the parish, none is better sheltered than the town. But, either on account of the exhalations arising from silt of which a great extent is uncovered twice every day by the recess of the tide, or from the original swampiness of the bottom on which a con- siderable part of the town stands, or from the impurity of the at- mosphere arising from the smoke of steam-engines used in the ma- nufactories, or from the denseness of the population in many dis- tricts, or from the negligent habits of the people as to cleanliness, or from a combination of several, or of all these causes, the town must be regarded as still rather unhealthy. Diseases. — Asthma, (which, however, seems scarcely to impair the longevity of those who are affected with it,) typhus fever, and even dysentery, though not to the same extent as formerly, are still in some measure endemic. In 1819, typhus fever prevailed to an alarming extent, number- ing, during seven months, 1264 seizures, and 95 deaths. And in 1832, malignant cholera made two eruptions, one in July, the other in October, and prevailed more or less for the same length of time as the typhus of 1819, (but at the opposite season,) carrying off 612 persons out of 808 seized. In 1833, this dreadful malady again revisited the town, but though it was very fatal in certain quarters, (Seagate and Black's Croft,) it did not become generally diffused, and the number carried off* by it was comparatively small. Cholera has now (December 1833) been succeeded by small-pox. Hydrography. — Full tide in the estuary of the Tay, which, as has been stated, washes the southern limits of the parish, is gene- rally said to occur on the days of the new and full moons, at a quar- ter past two o'clock, but it flows in the harbour of Dundee till about half past two. The average height of the spring tides, as measur- ed by an index at the entrance to King William's Dock, is about seventeen feet, while that of the neap tides is about eleven feet. The water opposite the town, though saline, is not wholly oceanic, being diluted to a considerable extent by the fresh water flowing DUNDEE. 3 down the river; and this probably is the reason why marine in- sects never attack the piles, buoys, or. beacons about the harbour. The river opposite the town is rather less than two miles broad. The channel across is much interrupted by a sand bank,* which, though formed within the last forty years, has now at full spring tides only about ten feet water over its summit ; and at neap tides scarcely more than four. Its position is not far from midway across. Its form is spindle-shaped ; its length, as seen at low water, upwards of a mile ; and its course parallel to that of the river. At present its lower or eastern extremity is stretching down in the form of a curve concave towards the harbour of Dundee. It is, however, so constant- ly altering its features, that no other remark need be made upon it, but that it is always increasing in quantity, and slowly moving down the river. Of the water, which is carried through the town in pipes, there is but a very inadequate supply ; and this is the more deeply to be regretted, since it has been lately estimated, that for a sum be- tween L. 40,000 and L. 50,000, a supply of 200,000 cubic feet daily of good water may be obtained from any of three sources at no great distance. Geoloff^.—^The whole parish, along with all the surrounding country, consists of rocks subjacent to the carboniferous strata, and interposed between them and the members of the primitive series. Of the last mentioned class of rocks, the nearest to the parish is mica-slate, (whidh forms a great part of the Grampian range,) lying about twenty miles to the north; while the nearest coal-pits are in Fifeshire, about fifteen miles to the south. That part of the intermediate series which forms the parish of Dundee is composed chiefly of porphyry, sandstone, and amygdaloid, which are here mentioned in their apparent order of superposition in an ascending series. In the sandstone, and especially in the amyg- daloid, there also occur included masses and alternating beds of * As this bank is an object of great interest, in reference to the navigation of the Tay, and as it may be important in some future age to ascertain its present magni- tude and position somewhat accurately, we have thought it might be worth while to gire the following data, with which we have been favoured by one of the engineers at the harbour. The base line, being the sea wall of Earl Grey*s dock, at present known by the name of the West Protection Wall, a line 817 feet in length ; the two eitremities of the middle bank at low water, on December dd, 1833, being the ^2d day of the moon*s age, make the following angles : With the base line at its eastern extremity, 57'' 54' and 26^ 2' With the base line at its western extremity, 112* 23' and 150° 10 4 FOUFARSHIKE. trap; and the sandstone often possesses such characters, as to identify it with the different varieties of what is often called clay- stone. The porphyry is most fully displayed on the precipice which forms the bank of the river, about two miles west from the town. Its colour is brownish-red, and the porphyritic structure is indicated by crystalliform spots, differing from the basis rather in the paleness of their tint than in their composition. It is traversed by veins, consisting usually of jasper, heavy spar, and sparry iron ore, with occasionally acicular crystals of manganese. Its junctions with the sandstone (which usually overlies it, but at other times dips be- neath it,) are extremely interesting. In some places the transi- tion is violent and abrupt, and accompanied by dislocations ; at other places the porphyrj' gradually passes into the sandstone, and large masses occur of a stnicture every way intermediate. The physical characters of the two rocks are, indeed, often very similar, both being usually of a brick colour, both at some places displaying a stratified structure, and at other places both seeming to want it. The sandstone also is occasionally trsCVersed by veins similar to those which have been already described as traversing the porphyry. Upon the whole, the phenomena displayed by these two rocks in the district alluded to are very interesting. • To describe them more minutely would be incompatible with the limits of this work. But a good idea of them may be formed, by supposing that both rocks resulted from the same materials, those parts which contained most alumina and alkaline matter having been softened, and in some places fused and thrust up among the beds of the more silicious strata, thus giving rise to the porphyry ; while the more silicious parts, having been softened merely where most powerfully heated, •still retain more or less perfectly the characters of sandstone. Sandstone forms the greatest part of the substratum of the pa- rish. In the western parts it has usually a westerly dip, and in the eastern an easterly ; but the descent of the strata is usually more or less towards the tide. The uppermost strata are gene- rally of a red colour. This gradually passes through a purplish tint into grey ; having attained which, the rock is of excellent quality for architectural purposes, and many quarries of it are worked in different districts of the parish. Reposing on the sand- stone are the remains of a great bed of amygdaloid, which, though still forming some of the hills, and a great part of the coast on the opposite side of the river, and of the uplands which bound the DUNDEE. 5 Carse of Gowrie on the north and west, lias mostly disappeared from this parish; leaving only the more durable masses of trap, which had been formerly included in it. Such appears to be the geological history of the rocks which form the hill of Balgay, the Law, and other eminences of whin in the parish. On the eastern shoulder of the Law, indeed, the trap is still, at a considerable ele- Tation, immersed in the amygdaloid, through which a tunnel has lately been cut in forming the line of a railway into Strathmore. In the place named the Den^ at the east end of the town, the junc- tion of the sandstone with the trap may be observed, presenting phenomena well worthy of the attention of the geologist. Much of the trap in the parish is of a tufaceous nature, and though, when newly opened upon, seemingly very fit for road metal, moulders away in the course of a few months, generally weathering in concentric lamellae. Nor, indeed, is the trap of the Law much worthy of confidence as a road metal. Its most remarkable features are its almost resinous lustre and highly conchoidal fracture. Other masses of trap in the parish, however, such as that forming the rock of the Magdalene Yard, and the quarry near Stobs' Muir, are ex- tremely durable. Zoology. — Under this head the parish presents little that is in- teresting. In none of the strata have organic remains (so far as we are aware) been met with, though, in the analogous rocks of tha neighbourhood, even those of vertebrated animals have been found.* It is perhaps worthy of remark, that the golden-crested wren (Regvlus cristatus) occasionally nestles in the hill of Balgay, and that the water-shrew fSorex fodiens) is by no means rare in the brooks of the neighbourhood. The fish of greatest conside- ration in the river is the salmon ; but a description of the manner of fishing it belongs more properly to other parishes. Among the Invertebrata^ few species occur worthy of notice. In pools of water on the rock at Broughty Ferrj', however, a very beautiful Sabella ( Cuv.) seemingly the T. Fabricia of the Fauna Grcmlajidica^ which does not appear to have been previously recognized as an inhabitant of our countrj', is to be met with. At the point of the Magdalene Yard, also, the student will always be able to procure alive, at the proper season, several interesting zoophytes, and, among others, the Campanularia gehiinosa^ and Coryna squamata. ( See Flem. Phil. Zool. PI. V. fig. 1 and 3.) • See a paper by the Rev. Dr Fleming of Clackmannan, Edin. Journal of NaV. History and Geographical Science^ New Series, No, 2. 6 FORFARSHIRE. Botany, — The botany of the parish is ako devoid of peculiar interest. It may be merely remarked, that a variety of Centaurea scabiosa with white flowers, Potentilla vema, and P. reptans, Spirea JUipendula^ and Allium vineale, are met with on the bank of the Tay to the west of the town. To the east some rare mosses, such as Didymodon rigidulum^ and Grimmia ovata, (the latter abundantly on the Hare- Craig,) occur; and within water-mark the usual species of Alyce^ of which Fucus nodosus, F. vesiculosus, and F. canaliculatus^ are the most characteristic In the fissures and emptied veins of the red porphyry and sandstone, the Cera-- mium Rothii frequently forms a covering resembling the richest crimson velvet. II. — Civil History. Accounts of the Parish. — There is no history of the town and parish, properly so called, of later date than the very able one which was furnished by the late Dr Small in the former Statisti- cal Account of Scotland. In the life of General Monck, written by Gamble, his own Chaplain, we learn several particulars of im- portance respecting it ; such as its being a very rich and thriving place, — having had sixty ships taken in the harbour, which were sent away laden with plate and money; and' condemning the ra- pacity of the plunderers, the writer mentions, with some degree of satisfaction, the loss of the whole fleet in crossing the bar of tiie river. In 1678, there was published, in Latin, a description of the county of Angus, which is still extant, by the Rev. Robert Edward, who was a native of Dundee, and minister of the neighbour- ing parish of Murroes. The only copy of this work that could be procured was found among some papers in the house of Pan- mure in 1781. In 1793, it was translated into English, and has lately been republished in this town. According to this writer, the harbour, by very great labour and expense, had been rendered a very safe and agreeable station for vessels — " the citizens emi- nent in regard to their skill and industry in business." He adds, ** so remarkable were the people of this place for their adherence to the true religion, that, at the time of the Reformation, it was honoured with the appellation of the second Geneva," Historical Notices. — Although the early history of Dundee is involved in much obscurity, the town appears to have been long a place of considerable note. It was occupied by an English garrison DUNDEE. 7 under Edward L It was considered of such consequence in giving security for the observance of national treaties in the reigns subse- quent to that of Robert Bruce, as to rank the third town in Scotland after Edinburgh. It bore a large share of the taxes in the reign of James L^ and of the 1200 merks im)M)sed upon the adjoining towns, for fitting out a yacht to bring home the King and Queen from DenmarL The proportion paid by Dundee was 700 merks. In the troubled times of Bruce and Baliol, the town suffered severely. It was twice taken by Edward I., and as often retaken by Wallace and Bruce. In each of the reigns of Richard 11. and Edward VI. it was almost reduced to ashes. But it experienced its last and most destructive calamity when it was stormed by Monck, in the year 1651. It was estimated that not less than a sixth part of the inhabitants perished, among whom were many strangers of eminence, and not a few respectable clergj-men, from the south, who had fled thither as to a city of refuge. Besides the immense loss of lives and property, the greatest part of the ancient records of the town is said to have been carried off or destroyed ; and, a seven years' dearth happening about the beginning of the following century, the town did not soon recover from the effects of these disasters, — indeed, not until several years after the Rebel- lion in 1745. The union of England and Scotland was doubtless productive of many beneficial consequences to both nations, especially to the latter ; and if by the loss of our Dutch and French privileges it was the occasion of destroying one branch of our trade, that of plaidinffj or the spinning and weaving of coarse woollens, which was then the staple manufacture of the place, it opened up a new source of commerce and wealth, in the manufacture of linens of various kinds, particularly those of coarser fabric, and which go under the name of Osnaburghs, canvas, bagging, &c. which are exported to the foreign markets, and from which not a few for- tunes have been realized. The manufacture of cottons was attempted here about 1780, but was not found to succeed, and has long since been given up. The manufacture of thread, for which this town was famous for a period of sixty years, and the manufacture of glass, which em- ployed at one time about a hundred persons, not having been found productive, have been entirely relinquished. The manufacture of linen is now, and for the last fifty years has been, our principal ar- ticle of trade ; its different operations employ the greater part of 8 FORFARSHIRE. the population ; and Dundee is considered, in regard to this kind of manufacture, the first town in Great Britain. With the increase of the trade and wealth of th6 place, there has been, especially during the last twenty years, an immense ad- dition to its size. It has produced many enterprising merchants and adventurers. There have been introduced many improvements and inventions, which were unknown to our forefathers, and are the boast of later times, and which tend at once to give employment to the industrious, to facilitate the intercourse of conunerce, and to contribute to the sum of human enjoyment. Among these the first in the order of time, and perhaps not the least worthy of being noticed in any point of view, is the Steam-boat which plies on the Tay between Dundee and Newport, on the opposite coast of Fife ; of which an account will be found in the sequel under the branch of Industry, Police Establishment. — In consequence of the rapid increase of the population of Dundee and surrounding district, and the ordinary provision of the law for preserving the public peace hav- ing become inadequate for the purpose, in 1824, the magistrates, with the concurrence of the inhabitants at large, applied to Par- liament for an act to provide for the better paving, lighting, watch- ing, and cleansing, the burgh, and for building and maintaining a Bridewell there. The bounds comprehended within the Act, which was readily obtained, were extended considerably beyond the an- cient royalty ; including Blackness toll upon the west, Clepington upon the north, Mayfield upon the east, the southern boundary being the river Tay. The town, by this Act, is divided into ele- ven wards ; each ward yearly elects two general and two resident commissioners. The resident ones, who are all head constables of their wards, have a general superintendence, and have also a charge of the measures necessary for promoting the peace of the in- habitants. To the general commissioners, again, is committed the general execution of the act. Besides the officers annually elect- ed from the different wards, the following are general commis- sioners ex officio^ viz. the provost, the four bailies, the dean of guild and councillor, the convener of the town trades, the sheriflf- depute and his substitute, residing within the bounds of the police. The general commissioners elect a superintendent, who is respon- sible for all the inferior officers, and vested with discretionary powers of dismissing or appointing them at his pleasure. The electors of these commissioners are those who possess dwelling-houses or DUNDEE. 9 Other places of L. 5 of yearly rent. The qualification for a ge- neral commissioner is, that he possesses property within the ward of L. 10 yearly rent ; and of a resident one, property of L, 5. The expense of the establishment is defrayed by an assessment, levied according to the rental of all shops, warehouses, and dwel- ling-houses, situate within the limits of the act. The rate of as- sessment is fixed by the general commissioners, but cannot exceed one shilling and threepence per pound of the rent ; and it has been declared that the total sum collected In any one year shall not ex- ceed L. 4000. The Judges of the Police Court, which sits every morning at , ten o'clock, are declared to be the provost, the magistrates, and dean of guild, the sheriff and his substitute, who are empowered to take cognizance of, and to punish crimes committed within the bounds of police, and also of all offences against the regulation of the act ; but in no case can they fine to a greater amount than L. 5, nor imprison for a longer period than sixty days. The amount of the assessment levied under the act has never been suf- ficient to enable the general commissioners to erect a bridewell, — an institution for which there seems to be great need ; and at this present time an appUcation is about to be made to Parliament for a new act, having for its object, among others, the erection of this necessary establishment. The police establishment has been of essential service to the in- habitants, with respect to the protection of their persons and pro- perty ; although it cannot be denied that the streets are not much improved. The number of watchmen is too limited for the extent of the bounds ; and the suburbs, which are generally the haunts of the disorderly, are but poorly lighted. But as the facilities for lighting the town have been greatly in- creased by a late establishment, it is hoped, that, along with the provision, the commissioners will ere long be furnished with the means of carrying their wishes into effect. For, in the year 1825, an event took place of no small importance in the history of the town ; this was the establishment of a Gas Company. Gas Company. — The proposal originated with some spirited in- dividuals. Several attempts had been made, upwards of twenty years before the period referred to, in the way of lighting separate shops by mean^ of gas ; but as the scale according to which these were constructed was too limited, and as the expense was found to ex- ceed the profit, the plan had long been abandoned. By means of our 10 FORFARSHIRE. Gas Company, the town and neighbourhood are now supplied with a cheap and beautiful light. The work is situate to the eastward of the High Street, about a mile; and it sends out light both to the north and westward, to the distance of more than two miles. Not only are the lamps in the public streets supplied, but Ukewise .almost all the shops and spinning-mills, and a great proportion of dwelling-houses. The prospect of another Gas Company, threatened to be formed sometime ago, induced the proprietors in the original Company to reduce considerably the price of their article. The concern is > understood to be profitable ; and it has now partners in Perth, Aberdeen, and London, and seems to work so well as to supersede the necessity of any other like establishment. Royalty of the Town. — The privileges of the town of Dundee, as a free and royal burgh, are of very ancient date. The place appears to have enjoyed many immunities previous to the reign of King William, who is supposed to have first erected it into a royal burgh in 1210, before conferring the town on his brother, David Earl of Huntingdon, and is reported to have granted all the privi- leges to Dundee that had been bestowed on the most favoured Royal Burghs. These rights appear to have been confirmed and enlarged by many succeeding princes, in particular, by King James VI. in the charter dated Holyroodhouse 1601, and finally by Charles I. in 1641. Civil Constitution of the Burgh. — According to this sett or con- stitution, the town-council consisted of twenty persons, including the magistrates, that is the provost and four baiUes, who were elect- ed yearly at Michaelmas, as also the dean of guild and treasurer ; — the nine deacons of the trades assembling in the Town-hall, along with the members of the council, and proceeding to elect the new council from leets or lists transmitted them by the magis- trates. The formation of the new council was thus almost entirely de- pendent upon their predecessors ; and although, to use the words of Dr Small, it is due to " the honour of the magistrates to ac- knowledge, that in many instances they exerted themselves with laudable zeal and success in promoting the public good, yet a cor- poration thus constituted, without a greater degree of intelhgence and public spirit than what falls to the lot of ordinarj' men, was under strong inducement and temptations, to consider that as a fra- DUNDEE. 11 temity distinct from the community, and having separate rights." As, according to the sett^ five of the councillors must be taken from the guildry, — a body of free merchants, — and as this body had no voice in the nomination of these, or of their dean, and as three councillors, also, must be taken from any separate three of the in- corporated trades, who could vote for these only in the leets sent them by the magistrates, a spirit of dissatisfaction, with regard to the election of the magistrates, had for a considerable time been cherished by the inhabitants ; and, after many remonstrances upon the subject, the sett of the burgh, upon the application of the ma^ gistrates, was altered by the convention of Royal burghs assem- bled at Edinburgh in July 1818. By this alteration, the election of the dean and of his councillors was vested in the guildry ; and the convener of the nine trades, who was chosen by his own body, became a member of council. A dispute, however, having arisen some years after the alteration of the sett, about the election of the Dean of Guild, and the matter having been brought by the dis- appointed party before a civil court, the burgh of Dundee was dis- franchised by the Court of Session in March 1830 ; and upon the 11th of that month, seven persons, members of the late council, were appointed by the Court of Session as interim managers of the burgh. During this interregnum, meetings of the inhabitants were called from time to time, in order to consult about the measures to be employed in obtaining a new sett of the burgh, and for giving the burgesses at large a voice in the election of their rulers. Tlie King in Council was petitioned upon the subject ; and a poll election of the magistrates and town-council by the burgesses and heritors, in virtue of an order by the King in Council, dated 27th April 1831, took place in the Cross Church on 10th May, before the sheriffs of Forfarshire and Aberdeenshire, and the sheriff-substitute of Perthshire as commissioners. The proceedings having been re- ported by the sheriffs, an order of the King in Council was issued on 27th July 1831, confirming the election of the magistrates and council, made by the majority of the electors. The magistrates and council thus elected, accepted office on the 30th of July ; and on the 23d of August, an act of the 2d of William IV. extending the royalty of the burgh, and jurisdiction of the magistrates, and introducing new regulations as to the election of magistrates and municipal government of the burgh, received the Royal assent. It is provided by this set, that seven of the members of council re- 12 FORFAHSHIKE. tire from office annually. The seven new councillors were to be elected by the burgesses, and the council was then to appoint in- dividuals of its own number to its several offices. Since the passing of the Reform Bill for the Burghs of Scotland, the election of the members of council is extended to all persons residing within the burgh and extended royalty having a right to vote for a Member of Parliament, with the exception of the dean of guild, who is now chosen by the guild brethren, and who is ex officio chairman of the incorporation. The number of councillors is twenty-one, being the same as under the former constitution. The different offices are appointed by the councillors themselves ; and a third of them yearly retire from the council, but may all be re-elected. In consequence of the Reform Bill, Dundee, which formerly, along with St Andrews, Cupar, Perth, and Forfar, sent one mem- ber to Parliament, has now the privilege of being represented by a member of its own choosing. Its first representative in the Re- formed Parliament was George Kinloch of Kinloch, Esq. who died in London during its first session, and whose place is now supplied by Sir Henry Pamell, whose character is well known among poli- tical economists by his treatise on Finance. Ancient Documents, Sfc. — The common burying-ground, or houfT, as it is called, lies on the north side of the town, and contains about four acres. It is said that Devorgilla, mother of John Baliol, competitor for the crown of Scotland, in 1260, founded a convent and other religious houses in this ground, which was then, and long afterwards, used as a garden and orchard. About 200 i years afterwards. Lady Beatrice Douglas, widow of William Earl of Errol, granted a sum of money in aid of the common funds, and for keeping the convent in repair. An indenture was entered into between the Countess and JaiAes Lindsay, vice-general of the or- der in Scotland, and warden of the convent, that the friars should say mass daily at the high altar for the souls of Lady Beatrice, of William, her spouse, and of William, their son. The capitular act, signed by all the brethren of the convent, is dated at Dundee the 25th November 1483. Soon after the marriage of Qyeen Mary with Lord Darnley, she conveyed to the town the whole phurch-lands Snd revenues in and adjoining to the town, and, in particular, the site of the demolished convent of Franciscan friars, with the garden and orchard, for a burying-ground. Tliat the whole ground was not at that time, at DUNDEE. 13 least, applied to the above purpose, is evident from several inden- tures, seisins, and charters, which are still preserved. One of these is dated dlst December 1564, entitled on the back, Sasina Thomce Holland Horti in Vinella Fratrum Conventualium, The seal of the convent is appended, upon which is this inscription : " Sigil- lum commune Conventi de Dund,*^ This, together with another seisin dated August 1574, is in the possession of Mr Charles Roger, merchant in Dundee. A chapel in the neighbourhood of the bur}'- ing-ground is still standing, and was formerly used as a place of worship for the methodists. The ruins or foundation of the other parts of the convent are often laid bare in the digging of graves ; and latelv) the sextons discovered a leaden pipe about eight feet deep, and three inches in diameter, which went in the direction of the convent, and appeared to have come down from St Francis' Well, which also belonged to the convent, and which had seemed to supply them with water. * Eminent Men. — Among eminent characters connected with the parish by birth, residence, or burial, are Alexander Scrymseor, one of Wallace's heroic companions, whom he put in possession of the hereditary dignity of constable : also Sir John Scrymsoure, after- wards Viscount of Dudhope, who, in his adherence to Charles I. perished in the battle of Marston Muir, and whose son was creat- ed Earl of Dundee. The chiefs of this family were hereditary stan- dard-bearers of Scotland ; and they continued to be represented by the Scrymseoures of Birkhill and of Wedderbum. There are also to be noticed under this head Robert Pitilloch, now called PatuUo, who distinguished himself in the wars of Charles VII. of France, particularly on the expulsion of the English from Gasco- ny : James Halyburton, uncle to Halyburton of Pit cur, one of the most able promoters of the Reformation, who was provost of Dundee for thirty-three years, and whose funeral, from gratitude and respect to his memory, was defrayed at the public expense : and the famous Sir William Wallace, who is reported to have/eceived his education * 1 n the street called the Sea- Gate, the most ancient part of the town, and in whicli stood the former Tolbooth, (the stones showing the foundation of whicli are still to be seen,) a spot is pointed out where, in the times of ignorance and bigotry, one Grixzel Jeffrey was burnt for witchcraft, "[pie tradition is familiar to cvpry native of Dundee ; and not many years ago, when a gentleman of the law profession, from Edinburgh, was searching the records of die council and guildry, he discovered the whole of the docimients relative to the horrible transaction, — a deed which seems to brand with infamy the times' in which such tortures were sanctioned and inflicted by the law of the land. 14 FORFARSHIRE. at the school of Dundee, and in this situation to have begun his exploits by putting to death the son of the English governor. Among men of science and literature, Dundee can boast of John Marr, who received particular attention from James VIL, and who went with him to England as one of the royal household, and to whose grandson we owe a chart and soundings of the North Sea, remarkable for its accuracy, though made more than a hun- dred years ago, Dundee produced the well-known Hector Boece, the historian, who was principal of King's College in Aberdeen, and one of the restorers of learning in his time ; Dr Kinloch, physician to James VI ; Mr James Glegg, who resigned his professorship in St Andrews College for the rectorship of the grammar-school of Dundee ; and also Mr Goldman, a merchant. Some Latin poems of the three last-mentioned persons are still extant, ^^ and which," Dr Small says, ^^ for taste as poems, and for elegance as Latin composition, are inferior to no modern production." One of the most eminent citizens of Dundee during the last cen- tury was its provost, George Yeaman of Murie, who represented the burgh in the last Scottish Parliament, and who sat as repre- sentative for the district of burghs in the first British Parliament, and who rendered this town and county singular services, in re- sisting and defeating some attempts in the way of taxation on hides, barley, and coal. Nor must we omit in this account Dr Blair, an eminent physician in Dundee. A memoir which he drew up concerning the dissection of an elephant is to be found in the London Phi- losophical Transactions. The Rev. John Willison, an able and zealous minister of the Gospel, whose fame has been long spread throughout the kingdom by his religious writings, and, in particular, by his " Mo- ther's Catechism," was an inhabitant and minister of Dundee. Among eminent natives of modem date, is to be noticed George Dempster, Esq. of Dunnichen, a gentleman who represented this district in Parliament for many years, and whose patriotic character was such as to have obtained for him the appella- tion of Honest George Dempster. It was he who first suggest- ed the plan of sending fresh salmon to the London market pack- ed in boxes filled with ice, instead of being pickled as formerly, — an invention which has been the means of raising this fishing to a lucrative trade. The late Admiral Duncan was born in Dundee: he distin- DUNDEE. 15 guished himself during a mutiny in the British navy, and ob- tained a famous victory over the Dutch fleet at Camperdown in 1797 ; upon which account he was created Viscount Duncan of Camperdown and Lundie. His son is the present Earl of Cam- perdown. Sir James Ivory is a native of Dundee, now F. R, S. L. and E., and of Goettingen, and lately one of the professors in the Military College at Sandhurst, — a gentleman well versed in every branch of mathematical science, and not excelled in that department by any philosopher of Europe, and upon whom his Majesty William IV. has conferred the honour of Knight- hood. Last, though not least, is to be ranked the late Reverend Dr Small, who was for many years parish minister, and author of the former Statistical Account of Dundee ; a man of a sound under- standing, of considerable literary attainments, and an able preacher of the GospeL He was distinguished also for his philosophical researches, was the intimate friend of the late celebrated Professor Playfair, and himself the author of a profound work in astronomy entitled Kepler's Discoveries. Land-oumers. — The chief land-owners are the Heirs of the late Aleiiander Guthrie of Craigie ; Lord Douglas of the lands of Clay- pots, Milton, and West Ferry ; William Stirling Graham of Dun- tniin ; David Blair of Craighill ; George Kirkaldy of Baldouie ; Patrick Kerr of Drumgeills ; John Alison of Montpelier ; Mungo Dick of Pitkerro; William Brown Constable of the Wallace Craigie; James Lorimer of Kellyfield ; David Rankine of Dudhope ; David Arklay of Clepington ; the Heirs of Alexander Thorns of Wester Clepington ; David Hunter of Blackness. But this last estate, as well as those of Logic and Balgay, are said to lie in this parish only quoad sacra. None of these, except the lands of Dun- truin and those on the Douglas estates, have been above 100 years in possession of the family of its present proprietor. Parochial Registers. — The register of births and baptisms, and that of marriages, both began in 1645, and are continued, without interruption, till the present time. The former occupies six vo- lumes, the latter four volumes. The records of the kirk-session begin in 1682, and come down also to the present time. These registers are regularly and distinctly kept. Antiquities. — A prominent object in the natural history of Dun- dee is the Law or high hill, which rises about a mile towards the 16 FORFARSHIRE. north of the town to the height of 625 feet, and which commands a beautiful and extensive view in every direction. Upon the top of this hill are the remains of a fortified post, and the ditch is still vi- sible. From the quantity of human bones and pieces of armour which of late have been dug up in trenching the adjoining ground, it appears to have been a place of considerable strength in the early history of Scotland. Battle ofPitalpy. — There is a tradition noticed in Maule's His- tory of the Picts, that, when Brude or Brudas had encamped with the Pictish force on the Tothelbrow, in the parish of Strathmartine, about four miles to the northward of the Law, the Scottish army was encamped on the Law, and that a dreadful battle ensued in the plain ; the Picts being instigated with a desire of revenging the wrongs committed upon them the former year by Alpine, who had entered Lothian, the territory of the Picts, and perpetrated the greatest cruelties ; and the Scots being no less disposed to de- fend their King and country from the attacks of an exasperated enemy. After a desperate struggle, Alpine was conquered, t^ken prisoner, and beheaded at Pitalpy in 834. About a mile and a half north-west from Dundee, on the northern boundary of the parish, upon a small mount, stands a stone known by the name of the King's Cross, in the centre of which a hole is hewn ten inches by eight, and ten inches deep. In this aperture the royal standard of Alpine, the 68th Scottish king, was fixed on that day on which he fought the above-mentioned battle, and fell. The spot is called Pitalpine. Holinshed relates, that it was called Bas- Alpine, from the head of Alpine having been struck ofi* at the place ; and Buchanan adds, that the head was car- ried in triumph to Abemethy, the capital of the Picts. Vestiges of Royalty. — During the reigns of the Scottish kings Dundee was one of their places of residence ; and that part of the town where the palace stood retains, till the present day, the name of Whitehall. Upon the front of the building are the amis of Scotland, blazoned in the time of Charles IL ; and, in the entry or close is a long stone with the national arms, surmounted by an imperial crown, having the date 1588, with this inscription, " Obay ze King, King James VL" When the churches were repaired a few years ago, the back part of the throne or king's seat was found in a small apartment, for- merly used as a prison for delinquents, having engraven on it the ensigns of royalty. It is said to have been laid aside when the ?3 DUNDEE, 17 king^s gallery was fitted up for the magistrates in 1612, and is still in the possession of an inhabitant of Dundee. The iron rod, as tradition reports, about three feet in length, upon which was fixed the head of Lumsden, the governor of the to^Ti when it was taken by Monck in 1651, is in the possession of Mr Rogers before-mentioned. In 1831, while the workmen were clearing away the old houses and rock from the ground intended as a new street from the Cross to the Meadows, at the top of the Mint Close, they discovered the remains of our ancient mint, which was erected by llobert Bruce in 1311. The smelting furnace was almost entire.* Cotcgate Port. — In order to defend Dundee from the attacks of enemies, the town in ancient times was surrounded by a double wall ; and in each of the streets leading to the west, north, and east, were two gates or ports. There is now scarcely any part of the wall remaining, except a few yards at the burjing-ground ; and as the ports had ceased not only to be useful, but had become inconve- nient, these were removed about sixty years ago, except the Cow- gate Port, which is still kept in good preservation. This port has been allowed to stand, and has lately been re- paired, from respect to the memory of the famous Mr George Wishart, and his affectionate services to the inhabitants of Dun- dee during the dreadful plague in 1544. At that time, this mi* nister is said to have preached from the top of the Cowgate Port, from Psalm cviL 20 : ^^ He sent his word and healed them, and delivered them from their destruction ;" — the diseased being re- moved out of the town to booths or huts built for them without the port, and the healthy being placed in the inside of the gate, in which situation this good man administered consolation and ad- vice to both. On the lands of Balgay, there is one of those subterranean dwellings, or places of retreat, ascribed to the ancient Picts, and though it has never been explored, yet it is believed to be of great extents Modem Buildings. — Within these last forty years Dundee has been much improved, — new and spacious streets have been open- ed, — narrow lanes have been removed, — and in the place of old shabby houses, there have been built many substantial dwellings. * In the original MS. preserved among the Archives of the Church, there is a de- tailed account of ancient coins, a seal, and a royal ring, found in this parish. FORFAR. B 18 FORFARSHIRE. There arejseyeral large and handsome halls, and among the mo^ deni public buildings are to be noticed the Royal Infirmary ; the Royal Lunatic Asylum ; a splendid coffee-room ; and there is in the course of being built an elegant Academy. Churches. — The churches, with the exception of St David's, lately erected at the north-western district of the parish, stand in the centre of the town ; and as a new street has lately been open- ed from them leading to the river, — and as these buildings within these last six years have undergone great repairs, and their pris- tine look has in a great measure been restored, they now exhibit a magnificent spectacle to the beholder.* Spinning-Mills. — Among the modem buildings in this place, the spinning-mills are not to be overlooked, — upon account of their number, the multitude of persons employed, the capital therein vested, and the profits which from them have been derived. Till within these last thirty years, the spinning of yams was effect- ed by hand-wheels, and in this way a great proportion of the female population eamed their bread. But about or before that period, attempts had been made to spin flax by means of machinery erected in mills. The attempt was found to succeed so well, and to do the work so much better and cheaper, and more expeditiously than the former way, that the number of mills has increased in this town during the last twenty years. By this invention the wealth of many individuals has been much increased, the trade being now carried on to a much greater extent than what could possibly have becm done in the old way of hand-spinning. It is a question, however, whether the invention has contributed to the improvement of the morals of those employed. Aware of the demoralizing tendency of such great works, not a few of the masters have introduced schools into them, at which the labourers may have the benefit of educa- tion ; and in some there are also Sabbath schools. III. — Population. The destmction or abstraction of the ancient records of the town during its various sieges, and especially when it was stormed by Monck in 1651, prevents us giving any thing like a satisfactory account of its population in earlier times. There are some Coun- cil minutes dated as far back as 1587, and a record of the names of burgesses beginning in 1513; but these throw little light on the • See branch of Parochial Economy in this Account. DUNDKK. 19 subject. From calculations made by the late Dr Small, it would ap])ear that the population in 1651 was about 8047. From that time it rapidly decreased, in consequence, no doubt, x>{ many leav- ing the town from the horrors of the massacre, and the uncertainty and troubles which followed the siege; so that in 1746 the inha- bitants are said to have been only 5302. After that period a rapid increase must have taken place ; for, from actual enumera- tions, we know that In 176G the population was 12,426 1781 - - 15,700 1788 - - 19,«29 The state of the population subsequently, as taken from the go- vernment census, is as follows : In 1801 - 2G,H)4 1811 - 29,616 1821 - 30,575 1831 . 45,355 In this last return there are of males 20,910, and of females 24,445. The account of 1831 is exclusive of seafaring persons, who can- not be estimated at less than 2500. The cause of the extraordi- nary increase in population since 1821, is to be ascribed, perhaps, chiefly to the great advancement in the linen trade, which has pro- duced so many spinning-mills, and led to the extension of the har- bour ^ and which, by giving employment to thousands, has encou- raged early marriages, as well as brought families from other parts of Scotland and from Ireland. The number of inhabitants in the town and suburbs is 44,200, in villages connected with the parish 800, and in the country 335. The yearly average for seven years preceding 1831 of Births and l>aptisin.s is - 818 Marriages, - 393 Burials, - 923 At the same time, in regard to the accuracy of this list, it must be stated, that some burials take place in St Andrew's Chapel ground, where no register is kept; and several families of seceders and others do not, from principle or otherwise, always enrol their child- ren's names in the parish record. The number of families in the parish is 10,682; whereof 226 are 20 FORFARSHIRE. chiefly employed in agriculture ; and 6828 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft. ^ It may be mentioned, that, during the period when cholera vi- sited the town, the mortality was only 30 above what it was two years before, when measles and fever prevailed ; the number of burials being for these two years 1445 and 1476. There are no noble families in the town, but several of indepen- dent fortune. Of landed proprietors in the parish, there are six- teen having property worth upwards of L. 50 a-year. The number of inhabited houses in Dundee is 3892, of houses not inhabited about 68. Many houses are at present in the course of being built, in consequence of the opening of several new streets, and the rapid increase of population and trade. Character and Habits of the People. — Amongst the better classes in Dundee, from the. progress of education, and a wide and daily intercourse with other parts of the kingdom, as well as foreign lands, the style of conversation has rapidly improved. Among the lower classes there are still many expressions used which may be called Angvsisms^ — while the tone of speech is neither so drawling as in Fife, nor so sharp as in Aberdeen. From the number of wealthy families resident in the town, either engaged in business, or enjoying the fruits of their hard and ho- nourably earned affluence, the society of the place is extensive and pleasant. The hospitality of the merchants to strangers is almost proverbial. As business is transacted now chiefly before dinner, the evening is often devoted to domestic enjoyment, to useful instruction, to social parties, or to the club.* In the games in use there is nothing but what is common to similar places. Cricket, the favourite game of merry England, has of late been in- troduced among our youth ; and in winter, the curlers seek their " roaring play" under the auspices of one of our divines, highFy skilled and most successful in the art, who imported it from his na- * Many of the merchants^ manufacturers, writers, and shopkeepers, have IcfV the close streets of the town, and built handsome houses on either side of it, on the banks of the! river. The public works are advancing rapidly on the country. A spinning- mill, with its accompanying warehouses, occupies at present the site of the villa of the late Mr C'onstable, the acknowledged Monkbarns of the Antiquary of Sir W. Scott. The remains of what was once the largest and most splendid house in Dundee, is now inhabited by trades-people. It stands in the Nethergate, and belonged to the Craw- ford fiunily. In this house the marriage of Archibald Earl of Angus, called Bell the Cat, with Maud Lyndsay, daughter of the Earl of Crawford, was celebrated with un^ common pomp and festivity. DUNDEE. 21 tive Dumfries-shire. Public amusements, and especially theatrical ones, have been on the decline ; and a more rational, healthy, do- mestic tone of happiness has been introduced. The people have been improving in their style of living, and in their dress. The hodden grey and broad bonnets, for the manufacture of which Dun- dee was once famous, are almost abolished. A few patriarchs from the neighbouring country exhibit now the only specimens of this ancient costume. A flask of claret, which our forefathers drank without duty, cannot; now escape the tax to the crown ; and the illicit prowler from the hills, who formerly stole into the town under the cloud of night with his poney and his kegs, has become a productive labourer of the soil, and no longer contends with the exciseman. Brokers have been increasing, the bane of the poor, who may prefer their cordial to their family. City vices no doubt prevail to a great extent ; but, on the whole, there is a buoyant spirit of intelligence, enterprise, assiduous labour, and successful specula- tion, as will be seen when we come now to the department of In- dustry. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. The extent of land in the parish under cultivation, or oc- Imp. Acres. ca.sionally in tillage, is about . . . 9812 Never cultivated, . . . . . 195 Capable of being cultivated with a ])rofit, . . In undivided common, . Under wood, . . . . , 254 The soil of the parish is various. To the westward of the town, including Balgay and Blackness, it is thin and dry. Farther north and east it becomes deeper and richer, and the banks of Logic in- cline to clay. The land to the north of the hill of Balgay, and around the Law, is poor and thin, on a till bottom, excepting what lies between Dudhope Castle and Dundee, which is rich and fer- tile. The lands of Craigie lying along the river Tay, between Dundee and Broughty Ferrj', are generally good, and let at the highest rents. The south banks of Duntrune, Drumgeith, and Baldovie estates, on the north-east side of the parish, are of good deep soil. But Pitkerro, which adjoins these lands, and is almost on the same level with the two last, is dry and thin. Claypots, a farm belonging to Lord Douglas, consists of a strong deep soil ; 22 FORFARSHIRE. but towards Broughty Ferry the clay disappears, and is succeeded by sand. The best land in the parish is in the middle of theestate of Craigie, part of Logie and Blackness, and that between Dud- hope and Dundee. The worst is on the north side of the Law, and on the north side of Duntrune. In general, all the arable land is in a high state of cultivation, and is very valuable from its vicinity to a large manufacturing town, where any quantity of manure can be got at moderate prices, and where there is always a ready market for every kind of produce, especially green crops. The kinds of trees raised are Scotch fir, larch, and a few elms, ash, plane, and beech. None of these trees are old, nor is the wood in the parish valuable, otherwise than as it is generally orna- mentaL Ment of Land. — The highest rent given for land under the plough is L. 5, 7s. 6d. an acre per annum ; the lowest about L.l. The average rent of the whole parish is about L. 3, 15s. per acre. In 1791, the highest rent does not seem to have exceeded L.2 per acre ; and perhaps the farmer found more difficulty in paying that amount than the present occupier does, who pays more than twice the for- mer sum. Grass land, in enclosures from ten to fifteen acres each, lets for pasturage at about L. 3 per acre. The ground for pota- toes is generally let from L. 10 to L. 11 per acre to the labouring classes, who furnish and plant the seed, and who hand-hoe and clean the ground, — the farmer funiishing the dung and the horse labour. Mate of Wages. — The common wages of men-servants employed in agriculture are from L. 10 to L. 14 a-year, with two pecks of oat- meal per week, and a Scotch pint of sweet milk daily for the win- ter half year, and one and a-half Scotch pints for the summer half year. The yearly wages of female servants so employed are from L. 5 to L.6, besides victuals. Masons' daily wages are from Is. 8d. to 2s. 6d. ; carpenters from Is. 8d. to 2s. 2d. ; common labourers Is. 6d. to Is. 8d., excepting in harvest, when their wages are from 2s. to 2s. 6d. The sum paid for a rood of mason work of thirty- six yards is 36s. Much of the work both of the mason and car- penter is performed by contract. Prices. — A double-horse cart costs L. 12; a plough, L. 3; and a pair of harrows, L. 1. The average price of beef and mutton is 5s. per t^tone of 14 lb. imperial weight ; of pork, 4s. Hens, Is. 6cL DUNDEE. 23 each ; chickens, 6d. ; ducks, Is. ; geese from 2s. 6d. to ds. each ; turkeys from ds. to 4s. ; and pigeons, 7d. per pair. Live Stocks — There are no sheep bred or fattened for sale within the parish. The Dundee fleshers purchase their sheep fat in the north country markets, and keep them till they have occasion fof them in grass parks in the neighbourhood in summer, and feed them with turnips in winter. There are few cattle but milch cows kept. Those kept in the town are of all kinds ; those belonging to the farmer are selected with care. None of the short-horned breed, however, have yet been introduced, their superior qualities being little known in this part of the country. Husbandry. — The farm-buildings are pretty good. The greater part of them are built of stone and lime, and slated. They are of a square form generally,'jhe space within being used as a straw- yard for cattle. The fences are stone dikes, with a few hedges ; but little attention is paid to fences near the town, where there is no pasturage. At a distance, particularly at Craigie, Pitkerro, and Duntrune, where the fields are let for pasture, the fences are in the best state. The dikes are substantially built of stone, from four to five feet high, and cost for building about 10s. per rood. The ordinary length of the lease of a farm is nineteen years. The rent is paid in money ; but sometimes estimated in grain, as well as in money, converted according to the fiars of the year. The tegns of payment are Candlemas and Lammas for the half years preceding these terms respectively. The land under tillage may be said to be in a very improved state, no labour nor expense being spared to render it highly pro- ductive; and there are no particular obstacles to improvements The following is about the average number of acres at present pro- ducing difierent kinds of grain, and the annual gross amount of raw produce : Wheat, . 343 acres, at 32 bushels per acre, , and 7s. jiei bushel, L. .3841 12 Barley, . 661 at 44 and ds. 6d. 5089 14 Oats, . 762 at 48 and 2s. 9d. 5029 4 Potatoes, 470 at I.. 10 per acre, • • • 4700 Turnips, 521 at L. 12, 9 m • 6252 Grass, 635 averaged, new and old 1, at L. 7 per acre, 4445 Do. 555 do. inferior pasture and waste, at L. I, ;i55 L. 29,912 10 There is little or no hay made in the parish, — the horses and cows kept on the farms and in Dundee requiring all the grass 24 FORFARSHIRE. that can be produced green during the summer. The cow-feed- ers buy all the turnips also not necessary for the farm stock. The average price of an acre of good sown grass for cutting green is L. 12, and for an acre of good turnips about L. 13; sometimes the last is considerably higher on some farms near town. The land is generally cropped on a six-course rotation : — 1. grass; 2. oats ; 3. potatoes ; 4. wheat or barley ; 5. turnips ; 6. barley sown with grass seeds. The dung made on the farm is applied to the land for potatoes, at the rate of about twenty tons per acre, and the dung purchased in Dundee is applied to the land for turnips at the rate of about sixteen tons per acre. The average price of dung in Dundee is 5s. per ton. Oats are sown in March : barley is sown, and potatoes planted in April ; and turnips are sown from the 1st to the 20th of June. The potatoes are taken up about the 20th of October, and the ground is then sown with wheat. There is httle or no summer fallow made. Harvest commences about the 20th of August. The corn is cut down with the sickle, generally at a certain rate per threave, which consists of twenty-eight sheaves of wheat of one foot diameter, and of twenty-four sheaves of oats or barley of ten inches diameter. The average price of cutting, bind- ing, and stocking a threave of wheat is 4gd. and of a threave of oats or barley G^d. Manufactures. — The manufactures of this town and parish are become of great interest not only to Dundee, but to Scotland, and even to Britain. The proportion which they bear to the general produce of the industry of the state is very high ; and their rapid and continued progress encourages us to expect still greater acces- sions to every department of our trade. To go back to the early periods of the commerce of this place, and trace its progress down- wards, would lead to details too extended for this work. All that can be here attempted, is to present an accurate yet condensed view of the whole as it now exists. Linen Manufacture. — Of our manufactures the linen trade holds the first place. It employs the greatest number of hands, and the greatest capital^ and it gives a spur to all other branches of trade and commerce. It is probable that the trade in linen was early introdu- ced into this place, — at least to an extent equal to the demand of the town and neighbourhood, and nearly a century ago some was made for exportation. From the first the coarser fabrics only seem to have been made ; and, although these are still the prevailing fa- DUNDEE. 25 brics, their qualities have been varied and improved to suit the de- mands of the markets, and in proportion as the yarns have been improved, of which they are made by the use of machinerv. The materials for these manufactures are obtained from Russia, Prussia, Holland, and Brabant, chiefly from the two first ; and the conveyance of them employs a great number of ships and seamen. Our information as to the extent of either the imports or exports to and from Dundee, previous to the middle of the last century, is very defective. The following table may serve to mark our state in 1745, and the progress of our trade since that date. IMPORTS, 1745. 1791. 182a 1825. 1829. Flax, tons. 74 2,420 4,685 8,248 14,183 Heaotip, do. Nil 299 2,733 2,207 1,094 CodiUa,do. NU 24 74 2,743 EXPORTS, Osnaburghs, pieces, 10,000 78,400 71,601 73,974 100,079 SbeetiDgs, do. - - 70,364 94,084 101,324 Bagging, do. - - 4,080 62,591 55,176 59,969 Hup and sand bagging, do. 4,842 9,280 Sail-cloth, do. - - 7,000 22,705 45,284 65,683 Sacking, do. - - 14,572 25,348 51,619 Sundries, do. - - 21,570 44,675 51,701 Thirty years ago almost all the linen yarns used in the manu- factures here were hand-spun, — some of them in town, and the re- mainder in the country adjacent At that time the expense of spin- ning alone was about equal to that of the yarn at present ; while the quality of the article was very inferior to what is now made. The in- troduction of machinery for spinning linen yarn has been the com- mencement of a new era in our manufactures, — the starting post from which all our improvements in trade and commerce have rapidly advanced. Unless steam power had been successfully ap- pUed to the production of a better article, and a more adequate supply than ever the distaff or the spinning-wheel could have pro- duced, the linen trade had never been carried on to any great ex- tent, nor had we been able to cope successfully, either in the home or foreign markets, with countries where provisions and wages are lower, and less expense is incurred on the raw material. 2() FORFARSHIRE. In 1811, there were only four spinning-mills in Dundee driven by steam-engines, making altogether about sixty-one horse-power ; converting into yams about one and a-half tons of flax per day, or 468 tons annually, and producing about 224,640 spindles of yam. The whole capital then invested in machinery in Dundee did not exceed L. 22,000, and the whole flax imported into the whole of Scotland was then about 7000 tons. At present (1832) there are upwards of thirty flax spinning-mills in Dundee and the im- mediate neighbourhood, driven by a steam power equal to 600 horses, consuming 15,600 tons of flax, and producing 7,488,000 spindles of yarn per annum, while the sum invested in machinery has been estimated at L. 240,000. In these mills about 3000 persons are daily employed. Of these there are under eighteen years of age, 1073 individuals ; under fourteen, 600 ; some under twelve, and even from six to seven years of age. The number of manufac- turers is by last census, 363 ; and the number of families employed in the difierent departments of the linen trade is 6828; to which wages to the amount of L. 156,000 a-year are understood to be paid. More than one-half of those employed in the mills are boys and girls from ten to eighteen years of age ; the remainder are partly men and partly women of all ages. The time of labour daily in the mills at present is twelve and a- half hours, exclusive of the time allowed for meals ; which is half an hour for breakfast, and the same time for dinner. The work commences at about half-past five o'clock in the morning, and closes at seven in the evening. The following are the average wages at present paid at the mills, and generally in the linen manufacture in Dundee, viz. to flax-dressers from 10s. to 12s. weekly ; girls and boys, 3s. to 6s. ; women, 5s. to 8s. ; weavers, 7s. to 10s. ; mill-wrights, 14s. to 18s. These wages, though much lower than they once were, owing to the altered state of the prices of goods, as well as of the rate of wages in the country, yet, from the generally modemte rate of provisions in Dundee, the economy and prudence used in the families of the operatives, and their having regular employment^ are understood to afibrd to the persons engaged in the linen ma- nufacture here, as many comforts as are enjoyed by any similar description of persons in any other department of national indus- try; and that, notwithstanding the extraordinarv influx of the na- 4 DUNDEE. 27 tives of Ireland, who, from the low rate of wages they are accus- tomed to at home, are supposed to have contributed to the reduc- tion of the wages of labour here much below their proper level. The yams are generally sent from the mills to the bleachfield, or to the plash-mill, to be washed or whitened and prepared for the loom. No running water being found in the immediate vici- nity of the town suitable for these purposes, the operations of cleansing and whitening are carried on at the distance of two or three miles in the beautiful vale of the Dighty. Some of the merchants unport their own flax, spin their own yarns, manufac- ture them into cloth, and export the cloth to the various foreign markets. But more frequently the spinners sell their yarns to the manufacturers, who either have looms of their own, or employ others who have looms in their own houses. Some kinds of cloth require more conveniences than others, and for these factories are erected, and looms of a particular construction prepared. Tlie loom used generally is the common one with the fly-shuttle. Some very broad looms are employed for weaving floor-cloths for painting, for waggon-covers, and other purposes. Power-looms have not been employed here, or at least not to any advantage, and they are understood to be entirely laid aside. In weaving sail-cloth and other heavy goods, men only are em- ployed. But the women are employed in the lighter fabrics, and perform their work as well as the men. Formerly the women were employed in spinning only, and some of the very coarsest ma- terial is still hand-spun. But the general use of machinery has almost wholly superseded that of the spinning-wheel, and sent the females to a less appropriate labour for their support. Old men and old women no longer able to undergo the labour of the loom, and young persons of both sexes not yet strong enough for that work, are employed in winding for the warper and the weaver, and thereby contribute something to the general funds of the fa- mily. The following extract from the books of the custom-house, containing the returns connected with . our staple for the quarter ending the 5th January 1832, may serve to give to persons at a distance a not unfavourable specimen of the state of the linen ma- nufacture in Dundee at the present time. IMPORTS, Flitt, 107,552 cwts. I qr. 2o lb. Heinp, 1:3,902 cwts. I qr. 24 lb. 28 FORFARSHIRE. EXPORTS of Bounty Linen for the quarter ending as above. To Gibraltar. To Brazil. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 93,781 yds. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 836,798 yds. 6d. to Is. fKl. do. 486,873 do. 6d. to Is. 6d. do. 890,640 do. SaiUloth, - 36,243 ells. Exceeding Is. 6d. do. 2,134 do. SaU-cloth, - 40,478 do. To Canada. From 6d. to 6d. per yard, 42,985 yds. To Cuba. 6d. to Is. 6d. do. 215,1 12 do. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 36,223 yds. Sailcloth, - 46,638 do. 6d. to Is. 6d. do. 373»793 do. To Jamaica. To the United States. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 280,798 yds. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 968,998 yds. 6d. to Is. 6. do. 1,260,164 do. 6d. to Is. 6d. do. 3,361,257 do. SaU^loth, - 9,856 ells. Exceeding Is. 6d. da 55,617 do. SaiUloth, . 382,958 ells. To Hayti. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 634,1 77 yds. St Thomas. 6d. to Is. 6. do. 1 ,121,640 do. From 5d. to 6d. per yard, 206,227 yds. Sail-cloth, - 2,878 ells. 6d.to ls.6d. do. 527,039 do. Making for one quarter, linen, 1 1,334,256 yards. SaiU-loth, 519,051 ells. It is proper to add here, that one reason why this quarter pre- sents such an amount of exports, is the ceasing of the bounties on linen on the 5th Januarj', leaving the trade to work its way in fu- ture without proving a burden on the other branches of our national industry. The total value of linens alone exported from Dundee for bounty during the year ending on the 6th January 1832, ap- pears, from the custom-house books, to be L. 596,424 Sterling, Hvhich, though necessarily inaccurate, may form an approximation to the real value of this branch of local commerce. The influence of the linen manufacture on the health of those employed in it will be difierently estimated by different persons ; but generally speaking, there does not appear to be any operation connected with it particularly prejudicial to health, unless it be the too long hours of labour, to which some of the youth of more tender years are no doubt exposed. The mills do not require to be over- heated for health; indeed they are well ventilated, while the cleans- ing and weaving departments seem to be as favourable to health and longevity as any other kind of labour. If some regulations were adopted as to the age at which young persons should be allowed to enter the mills, and also as to the number of hours per day during which they should be employed in them, all parties would be bene- DUNDEE. 29 fited. But it is extremely difficult to legislate betwixt master and servant in all cases ; and it will be found, on inquiry, that the wants of the parents, more than any desire on the part of their employers, have crowded our manufacturing establishments with very young persons ; while an avidity for higher wages than the manufacturers could afford to give for a shorter period, has induced them some- times to protract their labour beyond what is good for their health. After every drawback, however, persons visiting the mills and ma- nufactories will see with pleasure the appearances of health and cheerfulness every where exhibited. In health, every precaution is taken to guard against disease; and when any epidemic prevails, every attention is paid to such as are overtaken by it, and all due means used for their recovery. As to the influence of our manufactures on morals, it is to be regretted that wherever multitudes of human beings congregate, good morals are endangered. In almost all our public works there are dissolute parents, and consequently neglected children, whose bad example acts on the mind and the heart as a tainted atmo- sphere does on the body. But there is nothing in the Unen trade less friendly to good principles and good conduct than in works of a similar kind ; and it is due to the mill-masters to state, that most if not all of them have established schools for the instruction of their servants, and that some of them devote not a little time and attention personally to the education of those who are employed in their works. One other remark connected with this subject suggests itself here. It is well known that not a year passes by without accidents occurring to both old and young persons employed about machi- nery ; and these accidents are often so severe, as not only to lay aside those who receive them from working for a long time, but even to maim them for ever after, and thereby to disqualify them from earning their livelihood. Might not a method be devised to meet such exigencies as these ? If a weekly contribution from each of the operatives, at the rate of one penny for every crown earned, and an annual assessment on the masters proportioned either to the steam power, or to the number of hands employed by them, were thrown into one fund, and well managed, it would not only meet these cases as they occur, but in a little time would form such a fund as would render weekly pajments unnecessary. Navigatioiu — Dundee seems, from an early period, to have had 30 FORFARSHIRE. a considerable share of the commerce of Scotland, as, indeed, might be expected from the great advantages of its situation. In 1569, perhaps the remotest period to which authentic recOTds of the state of the flipping here reach, we find that the principal part of the fleet sent in pursuit of the worthless Bothwell consisted of three ships supplied by Dundee. In 1651, when the town was sur- prised and sacked by General Monck, one hundred ships, as before stated, were found to belong to it, of which sixty were loaded with booty captured by the besiegers. It is not improbable, howeTer, that some vessels from other parts had taken refuge in almost the only strong-hold that had hitherto successfully resisted the gold or the prowess of the invaders. From the year 1652, the progressive increase of the trade and commerce of Dundee showed the elasti- city of the national character, not easily nor permanently subdued. Yet it was not until the middle of the following century, when the people of Scotland began to prize and to take advantage of their connection with a larger, better cultivated, and richer country, that our trade and commerce showed signs not only of life, but also of health and vigour. In 1680, 85 vessels, small and large, entered the port of Dundee. 1731, 70 belonged to it of ... 2,309 tons. 1745, 4,780 do. 1791, vessels arrived from foreign and coastwise, &c. 72,777 do. 1822, 158: 1361 seamen, - 16,572 do. 1832, 259 : 2200 do. - - dl,3:i0 do. British ships from abroad, 253, - - 38,287 do. Foreign do. do. 54, - - 6,856 do. British cleared out for foreign with cargoes, 35, 7,854 do. Foreign do. do. do. 4, 519 do. Coasters arrived, 1858, ... 126,733 do. cleared, 1017, - - - 73,344 do. It was only in 1815 that the first great impulse was given to the manufactures and commerce of Dundee, by the renovation and extension of the harbour. Prior to that date, the accommo- dation provided for the shipping was adapted to the most limit- ed commerce only. One small pier, and two or three clumsy erections in a state of dilapidation, and which it required a boat to reach, constituted the whole protection for the shipping, and the whole convenience for discharging or loading. The spirit of enlightened enterprise had been ^t work for several years ; but it was only in the year above-mentioned that appli- cation was made to Parliament, and a bill obtained, for separating the harbour from the other branches of the common good, and DUNDEE. 31 for investing the management of it for a term of years in distinct commissioners. These commissioners were selected partly from the magistrates, and partly from other public bodies of the town. Much pains were taken to procure the most approved plans ; and after all preliminaries had been settled, the work was begun, and carried on with extraordinary spirit ; every thing was done in the most substantial manner ; and yet long within the time contem- plated, the present harbour, consisting of a wet dock of about six acres, — a tide harbour of much greater extent, — a graving-dock capable of containing at once three of the largest class of mer- chant vessels frequenting the Tay, — extensive carpenters' and other yards for ship-building, &c., — wide and spacious quays, affording birthage for about thirty vessels to load or discharge at the same time, — ^was happily completed. From the moment this superior ac- commodation was begun to be provided, the number and tonnage of our ships increased, and, of course, the extent of the trade and commerce of the port was greatly enlarged. Works so extensive, and from their nature so difficult to erect, necessarily created a very great expense ; but that expense has been incurred judiciously, and to great advantage, both to the trust and to the pubUc From 1815, the date of the commencement of the new harbour, down to May 1833, the following are the items both of the expenditure and of the receipt. — Building harbour and docks, - - - L. 163,901 14 24 Impkments necessary for carrying on the work, Quarry at Lochee and engine there, Dredging-machinc, Iron cranes, . ^ _ Compensation to the town for ground, &c. Interest paid on debts, Stamps, conveyances, &c. Cash reoeived : — Shore-dues, Graving dock, do. Sec, Rents of property. Money borrowed, Fines, i work. 2,427 4 9 - - 2,250 16 6 - 3,450 - 440 7 3 :. - 27,.500 - 41,515 8 4 - 517 16 11 L. 242.003 7 I04 L. 138,409 3 8 4,8d8 10 7 1,648 14 1 113,868 10 16 9 L. 258335 5 1 242,003 7 104 Cash on hand, including arrears of dues, L. 16,831 7 24 The following table shows the state and progress of the shore- 32 FORFARSHIRE. dues collected under the harbour bill, from the commencement of the trust to the end of May 1831, the date of last balance. Year end. July 181G, L. 4411 Expenses, L. 315, Net sum, L. 4096 1817, 5908 350, 5558 May 1818, - 5021 1819, 5605 1820, 5605 1821, 5910 1822, 5910 1823, 7145 462, 6683 1824, 8379 498, 7851 1825, 8478 563, 7915 1826, 8055 1827, 7841 379, 7462 1828, 9622 OoO, 9236 1829, 10,134 405, 9729 1830, 11,231 429, 10,602 1831, 10,599 417, 10,18-2 1832, 9374 6 04 9374 6 04 1833, 92(J6 5 5 9206 5 5 The blanks in the preceding table refer to the years in which the shore-dues were let to tenants ; during the other years in which the gross and net sums are given, and the expense of collecting the dues is noted, the commissioners themselves were the collectors. Besides the actual expense of collecting the dues, which varies from L.d, 16s. 4d. to L.5, 18s. lOd. per cent, there is a sum added for incidental expenses, varying from L. 79 to L. 170 a-year. It is proper to state here, that the rates levied at this port have been reduced more than once since 1821 ; and particularly, that, since the last act came into operation, in June 1830, the dues on several articles have been greatly reduced, — the reduction on coals and grain alone for the last year amounting to L. 450, and that on non-freemen, &c. to L. 951. When the plan for the new harbour was adopted in 1815, it was considered to be so extensive, especially when compared with what preceded it, that it was generally believed that the accom- modation it promised would exceed the necessities of the trade of Dundee for very many years to come. It was soon discovered, however, that this opinion was not correct. Several years since, the want of sufficient birthage was matter of complaint ; and mea- sures were taken as soon as possible for having the ground of this complaint removed. A new harbour bill was applied for, and ob- tained, vesting the shore-dues permanently in a board of trustees. A plan was adopted for extending the tide-harbour, and for con- verting the greater part of it into a wet dock, and for other im- 3 DUNDEE. 33 provements rendered necessary by the daily increasing trade and coQimerce of the town. This work is already begun ; and from the arrangements made already, and the well-known activity of those concerned, it is expected to afford the necessary accommo- dation to the shipping in a very short time. The following table shows the principal articles of Import and Export to and from the port of Dundee for the last two years, iM>ith the amount of all, and the increase on some, of these articles. IMPORTS. For the year ending 29th May 1830. Do. 31st May 1831. Do. 1832, Do. ias3. ¥\mx. Tons, 13,287 14,607 10,907 16,040 FUx, Cedilla, do. 2,912 3,907 4,103 2,737 Hemp, do. 1,218 2,179 1,607 2,875 do. 1,140 1,566 1,475 505 Lime, Bolls, 4,436 50,972 42,604 50,939 Coals, English, do. 137,734 125,426 131,621 139,194 — - Scots, - do. 143,149 150,005 168,015 189,530 Ashes, Cwts. 5,824 12,417 15,396 7,748 Timher, IXMUIS, 11,890 7,100 6,107 7,307 Iron, Tons, 1,325 1,395 1,417 1,602 Tar, Barrels, 380 2,539 222 2,547 Whale blubber, Tons, 1,283 126 750 1,981 bone, Cwts. 1,183 114 725 2,138 Oats, Qrs. 879 8,351 4,804 Barley, do. 130 2,022 4,605 Wheat, do. 6,771 18,898 10,525 5,130 Peaae, do. 53 589 875 Beans, do. 317 NU. Tares, do. 60 449 Rye, do. Na. 3,114 TaUov, Cwts. 1,148 367 123 905 EXPORTS. Linens. Osnaburghs, Pieces, 1 13,873 96,957 8,750 100,713 Sheetings, do. 109,161 131,660 143,250 148^7 Cotton bagging, do. 63,383 65,592 49,036 27,179 Sundries, do. 7,491 7,395 13,163 16,793 Sail-cloth, do. 59,827 72,268 S5,522 81,754 Saeking, do. 56,071 45,893 47,948 57,242 Dowlas, do. 30,096 40,915 68,448 69,774 Sundries, do. 24330 11,550 9,601 13,374 467,732 474,230 428,718 515,206 Grain. WTieat, Qrs. 1,565 2,958 2,729 750 Barley, do. 20,985 23,378 34,024 42,626 Oats, do. 2,647 8,135 782 734 Pease, do. 134 169 262 609 Flour, Sacks, 32 132 099 200 25,363 34>772 38,496 44,919 FORFAR. C • 34 FORFAUSmiU:. The following state shows the extent of the shipping and trade of Dundee^ at the time the last Statistical Account was drawn up in 1792, and in 1831. In 1792, Ships, 116 Tons, 8,5511 Men, 696 1832, do. 259 do. 31,330 do. 2,200 Dlff^ence, do. 143 do. 22,7794 do- 1^02 In 1792, do. Employed, Foreign, 34 Coasters, - 78 Whale ships, - 4 Custom-house dues received* L. 6,341 17 11 Year ending 5th January In 1831, do. do. 68,085 2 6 1833, dues L. 64000. Bounties paid, - 46,854 7 2 Ships entered from Foreign. 1. British, - 253 Tons, 38,287 2. Foreign, - 54 do. 6,856 Cleared with cargoes, 1. British. - 35 do. 7,854 2. Foreign, - 4 do. 519 Coasters arrived, 1558 do. 126,733 Do. cleared out, 1017 do. 73,344 Entries and clear- — — anccs. Ships, 2921 Tons, 253,593 There are several companies connected with the shipping belong- ing to this port, — such as the whale-fishing companies, which have among them nine ships of from 200 to 300 tons each ; and about 450 seamen, &c. employed in navigating them. The quantity of oil from the fishing of 1833 amounted to 2020 tons; the quantity of whalebone was upwards of 100 tons; and the total value about L. 54,000. There is also the Dundee, Perth, and London ship- ping-company, which began its operations in 1798 with four ves- sels of about eighty tons each. In 1801, this company added the Glasgow to the London trade, with two additional vessels of about sixty tons each. The late enterprising merchant, trader, salmon- fisher, and country gentleman, Mr John Richardson of Pitfour, had four vessels in the Tay and Thames' trade before the pre- sent company commenced. These were purchased by the com- pany in 1806, the company then consisting of many of the most re- spectable merchants and ship-owners belonging to Perth and Dun- dee. Since that time, the Perth trade has been carried on by lighters ; and a steam-tug is now employed to facilitate the inter- course between the two towns. A rival company started up a few years ago, but it was soon lost in the one that has been so long established ; and while the present company continues to serve the public as at present, it is not likely that they will soon meet with DUNDEE. 35 any very formidable opposition. The only thing likely to niter- fere with a monopoly, of which there is no complaint on the ])art of the public, will be an attempt to establish'a conveyance by steam betwixt Dundee and London, which the present company will pro- bably anticipate. The smacks belonging to Dundee are not ex- celled by any of their class anywhere, nor can vessels be better found, or more skilfully navigated; yet such is the preference given to the steam-packets, that many who were wont to go to Lon- don by the Dundee smacks now find their way thither by Leith or Aberdeen. * In 18^, the Dundee, Perth, and London shipping-company purchased the vessels in the trade between Dundee and Leith, and added that to their other business. At present they employ alto- gether twenty-five vessels; and sail one or more of them twice a-week regularly to London, Leith, and Glasgow, and every alter- nate day to Perth. The smacks in the London trade are from 150 to 200 tons burden ; the others of different sizes, are adapted to the trade in which they are employed. Those intended for the accom- ' modation of passengers are elegantly fitted up. In describing the state of our navigation, the passage-boats on the river betwixt Dundee and Newport must not be overlooked. Prior to the establishment of steam-boats on this passage, the small saiUng-boats were both unpleasant and often dangerous. Since the establishment of the present conveyance, the public have reaped the greatest benefit from it. There are two steam vessels, consisting of twin boats of sufficient size, and worked each of them by two sufficiently powerful engines. The thoroughfare is great, and would be much increased, provided the Pettycur passage was better. As it is, more than 90,000 persons have passed this ferry in twelve months, besides horses, carrijiges, and many cattle. Owing to causes which are not generally understood, the funds of this ferry are said to be not in the most prosperous state, — an evil • Since the above was written, two stsam ships have been launched by the ship- ping-company here, and arc in a state of forwardness for the London trade. These ships measure, on deck, 180 feet long, by 50 feet broad over paddles ; and each of them will be propelled by engines of 280 horse-power. Their cabins will be fitted up both elegantly and commodiously ; and their stowage for goo FORFAKSHIRE. which a le«5t antiquated agency might perhaps succeed in re- moving. Receipts for last year : — Passengers, - L. 3450 Cattle, - - 750 Goods, - - 756 12 L. 4956 12 Fishings. — The fishings in this parish, before alluded to, belong to four proprietors. Their yearly rents do not exceed L. 430. Horticulture. — In noticing other branches of our industry, we must not omit the state of our horticulture. Dundee has been long famous for its vegetables : so plentiful and cheap are they that even the poorest of the people may easily obtain them, while the rich have access to the finer and more expensive productions of the garden, and even of the hot-house, on very reasonable terms. There are about eighty acres occupied in the neighbour- hood of the town in raising vegetables for the Dundee market ; but great quantities are brought from a distance also, so that the supply is good and ample. The average annual value of garden- stuffs raised for sale within the parish does not exceed L. 2000. The neighbourhood of Dundee has long been distinguished for its fruits. In August, September, and October, large quantities are sold in the open market from the orchards and gardens in the Carse of Gowrie, Strathmore, &c. and in some of the fruit-shops the finest fruits are found in the best state of preservation almost all the year round, — a circumstance for which the public is chiefly indebted to one intelligent gardener. All that is wanting to com- plete success in this trial is a fair share of that patronage to which skill and enterprise are so justly entitled. The average annual va- lue of fruit sold in Dundee is not less than L. 3000 ; there being not more than one-twentieth part of the fruit raised in this parish. Of late years a considerable addition has been made to our nur- sery grounds; one establishment alone occupies about fifteen acres, and that was found sufficient for many years to supply the demand. At present, however, there are three nurseries, occupying altoge- ther about forty acres, — an extent of ground more than adequate to supply all the plants requisite for the neighbourhood. Indeed the home demand is much less than that from a distance. In 1826, one house sent to a distance upwards of five and a-half millions of young trees, and during the last ten years has furnished upwards of DUNDEE. 37 forty-five millions of plants of various kinds, making an average of four and a-half millions annually. In gardening, as in most other things, what is necessary and pro- fitable, rather than what is more ornamental and pleasing, is first studied. But the one generally follows the other at its proper distance ; and while other places have, in the progress of their improvement, exhibited these in beautiful combination, Dundee has not been regardless of what has been doing elsewhere. In- deed, the taste for the fairer and more admired productions of the parterre and the green-house, which prevails in our neighbourhood, has been rapidly increasing, and has been greatly encouraged and promoted by the formation of a district horticultural society. This society was established in 1824, and numbers among its members most of the nobility and gentry in the neighbourhood. It holds its meetings at least twice a-year, and at its competitions the va- riety, excellence, and abundance of the fruits, roots, flowers, and vegetables exhibited, have justly called forth expressions of ad- miration. In every department this society has been of use ; in ornamental gardening it has been eminently useful. It has awak- ened an attachment to the loveliest objects of cultivated nature ; given a taste and elegance to minds that otherwise had been en- grossed by very different scenes; and diffused a spirit of simplicity, of puritj', and of benevolence, inseparable from the study of na- ture in her most lovely forms. The collections of some of the amateur members are truly admirable, and may compare with any in Scotland. From the garden of one of the friends of this so- ciety originated the justly admired double varieties of the Ayrshire rose (Rosa arvensis^J or single white rambling rose. In the space of a few falls of ground this gentleman, who marks his attachment to the queen of flowers by calling his dwelling-place by her name, possesses a collection of roses and other flowers rarely met with. Having gathered the berries of the common Ayrshire rose, he reared from them a number of plants, some of which have produ- ced flowers equalling in beauty some of the dwarf garden roses. Others have successfully followed this example, and thus has been propagated a new species of double climbing roses, which in a few years may exhibit an endless series of rich and beautiful varieties. Tropical exotics are rare here. There are, however, some tole- rable collections of Cape, Australasian, and other green-house plants, and also a great variety of hardy ornamental exotics. One gentleman has some of the finest varieties of the Anriada:^ Pelar- 38 lORFAUSIllRE. t gonia, and GeorgiiuBj with various other el^^aiit plants. Another gentleman has from twenty to thirty varieties of the Camellia^ and a select assortment of other tender exotics, in a green-house of only a few feet in extent, the back part of which is occupied by an aviary ; the whole superintended by himself in the intervals of active life, — an example most worthy of imitation. In all the nurseries good collections are kept of hardy ornamental trees and shrubs, border flowers, roses, eglantine, &c. In the open air the Hydrangiaj Medicago arbor ea^ Buddlea globosa^ and other shrubs, which scarcely resist the severity of the winter in the vicinity of London, remain here almost uninjured ; as do myrtles and Fuch- sias^ Verbenas^ and some other Australasian plants, when planted out against walls and protected against the severest frosts of winter. Tanning. — There was once a number of tanners in Dundee; but there are not more than two considerable works now, — employing but a very few hands. The supply of native hides is good ; bark is brought from England and the continent, and dried hides from South America. There are seven curriers and leather-merchants, who employ sixteen men and apprentices altogether. Sail-cloth^ Cordage. — Dundee is eminent both for sail-cloth and cordage. Several companies are embarked in the trade of sail-making and rope-making, who are also ship-chandlers. Banksy Sfc. — There are at present seven banking offices; some of them of long standing. All of them are understood to be doing well, and have the character of being Uberal in their transactions. Companies. — Besides the gas company, already noticed, there are one local company for insuring against fire, &c. and various branches of life insurances. Butcher Markets. — The following may be stated as the average quantity and prices of vivres and butcher meat killed in Dundee for the last year, viz. Black cattle, from - 5,000 to 6,000 Sheep and lambs, - 10,000 to 11,000 Calves, 4,000 to 5,000 Pigs, 3,000 to 4,000 Prices. Beef, from 4^d. to 6d. Veal, 4d. to 6d. Mutton, 4d. to 6d. Pork, 4d. to 5d. Revenue to Government. — In 1705, the whole post-office revenue of Scotland did not amount to L. 2000 a-year. In 1791, the sum collected in Dundee was L. 1600, and the whole revenue from .68,085 2 6 14,246 3 6 1>238 2 2 846 7 7 6 4,290 13 5 746 19 4 88 5 u d,380 19 6 21,694 3 4 1,905 7 7 2,592 2 7 7,100 DUNDEE. 39 Dundee at that period amounted to about L. 57,000 per annum, the stamp duties included therein being L. 1000. The followinir state, though not scrupulously correct, is within the truth, and serves to show the progress of taxation, as well as of mercantile transactions, at the present time. Customs, Stamps, L<^^ac}'-duty, Coacli do. Pamphlet do. Malt, Candles, Bricks, Excise licences, British spirits used here, ( 190,165 gallons, S Land-tax and town^ss, I l*^ I I ^itjiput Imrgh. 1 2,592 2 7 within do. Post-office, Sundries, siy, - - 70,227 10 74 In the above sum the amount actually paid in Dundee is noted. The tax on tea, &c is paid in London and elsewhere, and would add greatly to the above. The taxes on candles, beer, and hides have been abolished; while those on glass, soap, &c. have not been received, — there being, as formerly stated, no works of those kinds in Dundee at present. Although the tax continues to be paid on the whole of these articles consumed in the parish, the last item in the preceding statement is calculated on an average of the present population with that of 1792, and the average is taken at not more than two-thirds of the probable amount, — making the whole paid in cess and taxes for the town and parish at least L. 196,392, 5s. Id. Sterling. This division of the Report may be concluded with the follow- ing statement, which is interesting, in connection with the recent alteration in the representation of Scotland. Number of houses within the old royalty of Dundee, rented above I^. 2 a-year, 2524. Rent of the above, - . - L. 21,141 Number of do. within do. above L. 10 a-year, 807. Rent of do. ... . 13,644 Total rent of property of all kinds within the ancient royalty of Dundee, .... L. 50,288 V. — Parochial Economy. Market Towns. — Dundee is the market town not only of the pa- rish, but the district. The market days are Tuesday and Friday ; 40 FORFARSHIRE. on the former, manufactures of all kinds are sold, together with ar- ticles of provision ; on the latter, in addition to these, grain. From the fertile district of the Carse of Gowrie, the upland parishes on the north, the rich tract that lies to the eastward, and from Fife, a plentiful supply of provisions and grain is at all times brought to the town. The fish-market is well and cheaply supplied ; haddock, cod, Ung, flounders, skate, and sometimes turbot, are caught at the mouth of the Tay ; fish from the south coast of Fife are sometimes conveyed to the town in carts, and women from Achmithie carry crabs, lobsters, and dried fish to Dundee, — a distance of twenty-four miles, and return with the price in the evening. These women are particularly strong and active. The Tay is also supplied with sal- mon in its season. The markets for provisions in Dundee, whe- ther as regards the quality or cheapness of the articles, are not excelled by any in the kingdom. The villages of Lochee and Broughty Ferry are partly in the/ parish of Dundee ; the former being about two miles distant, the latter about four. Means of Communication. — Dundee, from its situation, has am- ple means of communication with other places, both by land and water. The coast road to Aberdeen passes through the town, and there are turnpike roads to Cupar Angus, Forfar, and Brechin. The mail and other coaches to Aberdeen pass and repass daily. A coach starts in the morning direct for Glasgow, and the intercourse through Fife by means of several coaches connects Dundee inti- mately with Edinburgh. In addition to these, there are conveyan- ces which in summer minister to the health and pleasure of the in- habitants. A rumbUng, though capacious vehicle has hitherto plied betwixt Dundee and Broughty Ferry for the benefit of sea-bathers. The steam-boats to Perth invite passengers at an easy fare to a trip up the Tay, affording a prospect of uncommon beauty ; and of late the experiment has been tried, though not successfully, through the summer months, of plying a steam-boat betwixt Dundee and Leith. Rail-road. — In 1825 a rail-road was projected to connect Dmi- dee with Newtyle, and in 1826 was begun to be constnicted. It is now completely opened, and coaches and waggons are employ- ed to carry passengers and goods. The length of the rail-road is eleven miles, and the cost upwards of L. 50,000. leaving Dundee on the north, it ascends an inclined plane of about 800 yards in length, and rising one yard in ten ; at the top of this plane DUNDEE. 41 it is carried through a tunnel 340 yards in length, to the north side of the Law of Dundee. There are other two inclined planes be- fore reaching Newtyle. Up these planes the carriages are drawn by. means of fixed steam engines. This rail-road will be of great importance in connecting the fertile district of Strathmore with Dun- dee and the navigation of the Tay. Goods are already carried on it at one-third the expense formerly paid on the turnpike. The carriages are now impelled by locomotive engines. JScclesiastical State. — The early ecclesiastical state of Dundee is covered with much obscurity. The principal church in former times was St Clement's, dedicated to the tutelar saint of the town. It stood on the site of the present town-house. In the neighbour- hood of this place stone coffins and other remains of a burial ground have of late years been discovered. The church that has been used as the parish church since the Reformation was called St Mary's. It was built towards the end of the twelfth century by David Earl of Huntingdon and Garioch, brother of William L Returning, it is said, from the Holy Land, he was overtaken by a tempest at sea, and when in danger of ship- wreck, vowed that, if spared, he would erect a church to the mother of our Lord on the spot where he reached the shore. Having en- tered the Tay in safety, and gained the land, he was not unmind- ful of his vow ; for his danger and deliverance, together with the pious purpose which he formed, are all commemorated by the re- mains of the edifice, which, with its splendid tower, still graces our town. Tradition says that this church was destroyed by Edward I. If so, it was again destroyed in the time of Edward VI. by the Eng- lish, who were in possession of Broughty Castle. In 1588, the cross part of the building, which seems to have been in ruins, was roofed in; and what is now called the South Church, was used, along with the old church, (the choir of the original building,) as a place of worship. In 1759, the part which is now occupied by the Cross Church was fitted up as a Chapel of Ease, and a cate- chist appointed. In 1789, the Steeple Church was built, and this and the Cross (which has been rebuilt in 1829) erected into churches. After the Reformation, there seems to have been two ministers who officiated in the Old and South Churches. To these a third was added in 1609, and the arrangement has continued since. In 1789 two more were added by the erection of the Cross 42 FORFARSHIRE. aiid Steeple Churches, — there being four churches and five mi- nisters in the same edifice. The appearance of these churches, with their lofty, massy, and time-worn tower, is on the whole imposing. From their situation they are highly ornamental, and they are convenient, too, as places of worship. The tower which adjoins their western end is 156 feet in height. The top is surrounded with a battlemented stone rail, and on the summit stands a small house, which disfigures the beauty of the structure. The use or object of this house it is idle to con- jecture. In 1823, St David's Church, in North Tay Street, was erected. Built by the Independents in 1800, and used by them for several years, it is now an Established church, handsomely fitted up, con- taining nearly 2000 sitters, and most convenient for the population on the north-west of the town. By the constitution of this church, the town-council became bound to erect an additional church, when the three incumbents then in the Old and South Churches should be removed, the New Church to be supplied by one of their suc^ cessors. By this arrangement every minister will have in time his own church and congregation. Dundee has three chapels of ease, — St Andrew's Chapel, built in 1772 by the kirk-session and trades, and still under their ma- nagement ; the Chapelshade Chapel, built in 1789 by a Relief congregation, and now in connection with the Church of Scotland ; and a small Gaelic Chapel, in which our Highland population hear the gospel preached in their mountain tongue. The minister of the first charge of Dundee has a stipend of twenty chalders, which, by the fiars of 1831, produce about L. 309; he has also L. 10 in money; a glebe of five and a-half acres, worth, for cultivation, about L. 5 an acre ; — in all about L. 347 : — and lately he has obtained a substantial manse. The stipends of the other five ministers are L. 275 each. In St Andrews and Chapelshade Chapels the stipends are about L. 200. In the former an assistant is employed, in consequence of the men- tal affliction of the incumbent. The Gaelic minister, in addition to his other emoluments, has hitherto enjoyed L. 10 a-year from the Society for the Diffusion of Christian Knowledge. Though possessing eight churches and chapels, and nine mi- nisters connected with the establishment, Dundee is as yet one parish ; and the discipline and poors' fund are managed by a ge- neral session, containing at present, in addition to six ministers. DUNDEE. 43 upwards of 100 elders^ This is no doubt an anomaly in paro- chial legislation ; but, though attempts have been made to obtain a change of system, the majority have hitherto declared that, in this particular, matters shall remain as they are. Until lately there were only four seceding congregations in Dun- dee, — two belonging to the United Secession Church ; one to the Associate Synod of Original Burghers ; and one to the Associate SjTiod of Original Seceders. In consequence, however, of a division in electing a minister to the chapel in School Wy nd, a party formerly be- longing to its congregation are at present building a place of worship in Tay Square. The numbcrbelongingtoeachof these chapels may be from 700 to 1200. There is also a new and handsome chapel in connection with the Congregational Union of Scotland, containing about 1200; a small meeting of Scotch Independents; a Relief chapel, attended by about 400; a Methodist chapel, with about 500 ; an old Scotch Baptist meeting, attended by 300 ; two other Baptist parties, averaging from 30 to 50 each ; and a pretty large con- ' gregation of Glassites, formed originally by Mr John Glass on his being deposed from the charge of Tealing. The ministers of these chapels (with the exception of those whose principles prevent them receiving stipend) are paid by fhe seat rents, and contribu- tions from their hearers. Dundee possesses two Episcopalian Chapels, — St Paul's, with two clergjmen, and from 400 to 500 hearers ; and the New Chapel, a secession from the former, with one clergyman and about 100 hearers. There is a Roman Catholic chapel, with a congregation of about 300, chiefly of the Irish population. The bishop resides in Edinburgh. There are about 10,000 communicants in the Established Church, — a greater number fully than there arc sittings in the churches and chapels. Only a very few free seats are provided for the poor. A great numberof families are, no doubt, most regular, attentive, and exemplary in waiting upon the public worship of God, and support- ing everj^ religious and benevolent institution; but at the same time, from the nature of the population, it must be admitted, that there are also many who, from their deficiencies in those respects, scarcely entitle us now to the honourable name which the holy zeal of the inhabitants procured for the town at the time of the Refor- mation. Religious Societies, — About two years ago, a City Missionary So- ciety was formed. L. 160 has been raised during the last year, by 44 FORFARSHIRE. subscriptions and collections, for its support ; and four missionaries are employed daily in going from house to house, among the poorer and more ignorant of the people. At present there is a plan form- ing to obtain another society in connection with the Church of Scot- land, so as to employ, if possible, a missionary in the district of each of the estabUshed ministers. The average amount of contributions by religious societies in Dundee (including the city mission) is about L. 550. The ex- traordinary collections for charitable and religious purposes in the churches and chapels of all denominations may amount to about L. 600. Education, — The whole number of schools in Dundee is 80, at which, by the nearest calculation, 3700 children are receiving education. There is no parochial school, properly so called ; but a Sessional School, conducted on Mr Wood's plan, has lately been established for poor children. It is attended at present by 165 children ; and the salary of the teacher is L. 80. ♦ In the Royal Orphan Institution, in addition to eighteen orphans who reside in the house, 116 scholars receive education at Is. a quarter, the funds providing books, &c A seminary in Tay Square, built by private individuals, and superintended by three teachers, has at pre- sent about 230 scholars, and is successful. In the private schools there is no salary, and the fees for reading, writing, and arithmetic, average 4s. 6d. a quarter. There are also several boarding-schools for young ladies, of very great and deserved respectability. In the grammar-school, there are two masters for Latin and Greek. Their fees, 10s. 6d. a quarter, producing to each L. 60 a year ; and their salaries L. 50 each. The. public English school has also two masters, one for English, the other for writing and arithmetic. Their fees, 6s. a quarter, yielding to each about L. 70 a year ; and their salaries L. 30 and L. 20. The academy was begun about forty years ago, and became more prosperous and per- manent, from a legacy of L. 6000 by Mr Webster of London, which became available in the year 1800. From this the academy derives an income of L. 100 a-year, which pays the fees of twenty- five bursars, attending the mathematical classes. There are in the academy at present four masters ; the branches taught being ma- thematics, natural philosophy, chemistry, moral philosophy, logic, * At present there is a committee appointed, and a scheme in progress to obtain a Sessional School to contain about 500, which would doubtless be a great boon to the town. The Town-Council, on an application being made to them, have agreeti to ^ire ground for the purpose. DUNDEE. 45 drawings and the modern languages. The salaries of tlie teachers are L. 80 to the first teacher, L. 50 to the second, L. 35 to the French, and L. 35 to the drawing-master. Their corresponding fees, according to the arrangement made at the last appointment of a teacher, are L. 178, L. 140, L. 70, and L. 35. The building for the public schools having long been unsuitable for the town, new seminaries are in the course of being erected. They are to cost, it is supposed, about L. 8000, three-fourths of which has already been procured, partly from subscriptions, and partly from a tax on beer. In order to encourage subscriptions, the magistrates have divided the patronage with the public. A plan by Mr Angus of Edinburgh having been adopted, and a site procured at the meadows, in the very centre of the town, the ground is to be laid out by Mr Brewster, architect, and a handsome edifice already raises its head soon to receive our generous youth, and form a splendid termination to the new street which has just been opened in front of the Town- House. When the building is finished, the classes of the academy and of the grammar-school will all be taught under its roof. Five schools have lately been opened in connection with several of our spinning-mills, the rooms provided, and the teachers paid, by the masters of the works. The branches taught are reading, writing, arithmetic, and sometimes geography; the number at pre- sent attending is about 500 ; and it is no unusual thing to see the masters of the works kindly assisting their teachers, after the business of the day, in instructing this hitherto much neglected class of children. The system of infant schools was introduced into the town about three years ago, by a committee of enlightened and benevolent ladies. They have a school at the Hawk Hill, and another at the Wallace Feus (with which is connected a school for instructing girls in plain work) under their direction. A third has lately been esta- blished at the Hill Town, under the management of gentlemen. These institutions have been suppofted by subscription, and at one time they received L.178, from a sale of ladies' work, origi- nated by the ladies, who are interested in their success. The habits of attention and subordination produced in the children by this method of instruction are highly beneficial, and the religious knowledge which is communicated must be useful. The number attending at present is 400. A school has also been opetied lately for girls of the working-classes^ at which those who leave the infant schools are preferred. It is attended by sixty-five. 4() FORI AUSHIRE. The Dundee Sabbath School Society has thirty schools under its superintendence, which are attended by 1500 children. There are other schools not in connection >\ith the society, affording in- struction to about 250, — in all 1750 scholars. In these schools the Bible and catechism are taught, and a number of pious and be- nevolent individuals give their labour as teachers, gratuitously, on the evening of the Lord's day. On the whole, the people seem alive to the importance of edu- cation. It does not consist with the knowledge of the writer that there are many between six and fifteen years of age who are unable in some measure to read ; and he has only met with two above twenty years of age who could not read at all ; and one of them was a native of the Highlands, and the other of Edinburgh. The same statement, however, cannot be made as to writing ; many in our public works are entirely ignorant of it ; but the means cm- ployed of late, and those yet to be introduced, may remedy the evil. On the whole, much has been done by the wealthier classes, to produce and encourage a greater attention to the instruction of the young ; and it is to be hoped the effect may be to make the rising generation better than their fathers. Libraries. — The town is well supplied with libraries. A collection of books in the vestry of the Old Church, evidently belongs to Ro- man Catholic times, — ^but of its commencement or design there is no history. The subscription library contains 6000 volumes, and received lately from government 69 folio volumes of the national records. There are also district libraries connected with St David's Church and St Andrew's Chapel, containing about 1000 volumes each. Some of the seceding congregations have similar libraries. Watt Institution. — On the death of James Watt, the various towns in the kingdom vied with each other in honouring the me- mory of a man whose genius and skill had done so much to advance the manufactures and commerce of the country. His application of steam to machinery was the introduction, at a single stride, of a power so prodigious that future times only will be able to discover and to estimate its full value and triumph. For Watt no proud mausoleum nor splendid cenotaph was necessarj' ; — nor heeded he that " storied urn or animated bust" should perpetuate his name. Of him it might be truly said, looking to our town bristling with its lofty stalks, si qiuBras vionvmejitum circumspice! The honour paid to this great man in Dundee was one which his own benevolent mind would have prized : it was the establishment of a Watt In- DUNDKE. 47 stitution for instructing young tradesmen and others in art and science, — that, like him whose name it bears, they might be stimu- lated to pursue the honourable course of improvement. A liberal subscription having been obtained, two lecturers procured, appara- tus provided, and a Ubrary formed, the institution was opened in Ja- nuary 1826. The session extended to six months, and 460 persons, paying a small fee, enrolled their names. In subsequent years the number attending has much decreased. A conversation class, how- ever, among the students, has begun ; and though the funds do not allow of a regular lecturer, a number of learned and benevolent individuals are accustomed to give instruction through the winter. The average number of students during last session was 30 ; that of annual members, 110. The library is now large, and seems well used ; and the tickets sold defray the expenses of the institution, exclusive of the purchase of books. An Artisans' Reading- Room was established in 1831 by seve- ral members of the Watt Institution. It is provided with news- papers and other periodicals, and has at present 200 members. Temperance Society. — An association of this name commenced here in 1829,. and was regularly organized in 1830. Its great cham- pion and most indefatigable advocate was William Cruickshank, a coal carter in the place, who devoted himself with uncommon ener- gy to the cause. He delivered several lectures to crowded audien- ces, consisting of all classes in the town. Possessed of considerable reading, a strong and ready memory, great conrniand of language, variety and force of illustration, he produced at the time a very powerful impression. The society now contains upwards of 1000 members. That drunkenness is an evil of wide and increasing prevalence, admits of no manner of doubt. Whether temperance societies, restricting the number of licenses to venders of whisky, a tax upon ardent spirits, or whether a moral remedy is to be looked for to effect a cure, we cannot tell ; but that some measure is necessary, few who have reflected on the subject will be dis- posed to deny. The able advocate of the society here, whom we have mentioned, has himself exhibited the practical benefits of temperance. After receiving and accepting invitations to plead the cause in many parts of Scotland and England, he has long since left his original employment, and has lately been appointed a preacher to a meeting of Wesleyan Methodists at Leeds. Reading-rooms. — A splendid reading-room has lately been open- ed near the harbour, allied the Exchange Coffee-room. It is at- 48 FOUFAKSHIRE. a tended by about 400 subscribers, its terms being L. 1, 5s. a-year. A reading-room has been provided by Messrs J. and W. Brown, for the work-people in their spinning-mills. Newspapers^ ^c, — Two newspapers are published weekly in the town, — the Advertiser and Constitutional, — the former on Friday, and the latter on Tuesday. There is also at present a monthly pub- lication called the Presbyterian Magazine. Infirmary. — In 1782, the lat« Dr Small and Mr Stewart, sur- geon, established a Dispensary. The success of this, and the in- creasing wants of the population, led to the erection of the pre- sent infirmary. Subscriptions and collections for this purpose were obtained in Dundee and the neighbouring parishes. The foimda- tion stone was laid in 1794, and the house opened for the recep- tion of patients in 1798. In this good work, great exertions were made by the late Mr David Jobson of Haugh-head. The infir- mary receives at present thirty patients, besides those in fever ; the patients being of all country parishes which make an annual collec- tion for its support; and many of the poor in Dimdee receive me- dical attendance and medicines in their houses. The expenses of the house are upwards of L. 1000 a-year, and are made up by sub- scriptions, collections, and occasional legacies. Lujiatic Asylum, — The success of the infirmary gave rise to the lunatic asylum. Several benevolent individuals began by solicit- ing subscriptions, — the first name on the list being that of Lord Panmure, the then member for the county. The foundation stone was laid in 1812, in an airy and commanding situation to the north- east of the town. The house was opened for the reception of pa- tients in 1820, and upwards of 120 are at present confined within its walls. In the erection and management of this asylum, the ex- ertions of Mr David Blair of Cookstone deserve to be recorded. As a tribute to his services, a subscription was raised in 1830, and a full length portrait of him obtained, painted by Mr Colvin Smith, and now placed in the house. The propriety or safety of affording religious instruction to the inmates of the asylum was for some time a matter of doubt and discussion. The experiment, however, was made, (as it has been in other places,) and with complete success. The members of the Presbytery officiated at first in rotation. The service was hail- ed by the desolate worshippers as giving them at once pleasure and peace ; the prayers, and especially the praise,- seemed to renew in some of them a tie long snapped, which connected them again 4 DUNDEE. 49 with their early associations. So convinced were the directors of the benefit arising from the measure, that they have appointed a r^ular chaplain, a preacher of the Church of Scotland, who con- ducts the service every Lord's day. The average number of 100 during the year have attended his ministrations. Savings Bank* — A bank for savings was established in June 1815. In November 1831, the deposits amounted to L. 8312, 7s. 8d. and the number of depositors to 1217. During that year, L.6384» 19s. 9d« was received, and L. 6254, 8s. 7d. withdrawn. The in- terest paid is three per cent. ; and any sum is received, from Is. to Lb 9. The persons who lodge money in this bank are generally from the working-classes. Friendly Societies. — There are about 20 Friendly societies; and no example of persons receiving support from them becoming paupers. Poor. — During the year ending at February 1832, the follow- ing sums have been collected for the support of the poor : CoUectioiis in Established churches, L. 660 Proclamation dues, - - - 160 Feu-duties and ground annual, - - ISO Rents of land, - - - - 152 Interest of money, - - - - 24 Paupers* effects, - - - - 4 Aawssment, ..... 2000 L.dldO The average number of paupers receiving assistance during the same period (exclusive of temporary supplies, board for children, clothing, &c) is 744. They have been paid L. 2057, 9s. 6d. or Is. OJd. each a-week. Twenty-seven patients in the lunatic asylum cost the parish for board L. 380. The seceding and other chapels have contributed during the last year the following sums for the support of their own poor. Independent Chapel, (Mr Russell), - L. 102 Old Scotch Baptist Do. - - - Mr Eraser's do. - - - - Mr Duncan's do. > - - - School- Wynd do. .... Mr Aitken*s do. - - - - St Paul's do. - . - - - Glassite Chapel, .... L.476 Several mortifications* connected with the town afford bursaries to children, or small sums to persons in reduced circumstances. * Thcae Mortifications are under the patronage of the town-council, the kirk-ses- voot private indi? iduals, or certain ministers or magistrates, ex officihfm^-or se\'eral of these combiiied. 75 25 10 30 24 30 180 50 FORFARSHIRE. By Mr Webster's bequest, (already-mentioned,) thirty boys, (ex- clusive of those at the academy,) and as many girls, receive, the boys L. 2, and the girls L. 1, 10s. each a-year, for the purposes of education. The trustees on this charity are, the provost of the burgh, James Webster of Balmuir, Sir D. Wedderburn, Mr R. Graham, merchant in London, Mr D. Wedderburn of Percy, Dr Stormonth, and Mr C. Kerr. Captain Ramsay's mortification, in 1774, affords to eight boys, two of them L. 6, 10s. each, and six of them L. 4 each, and to three aged persons, L. 5 each annually. This same individual also bequeathed the interest of L. 20, for the preaching of a sermon yearly, on the " Wonders of Divine Provi- dence;" the preachers to be the ministers of the presbytery of Dundee in rotation. This sermon has only been three times preached; and the money bequeathed amounts now to L. 73. Bailie William Roger's mortification, in 1658, gives to seven bursars, for four years, L. 4 each annually, and L. 3, 6s. 8d. as apprentice fee. By Guthrie's bequest, in 1674, thirty-eight bursars have about L. 8 each yearly ; and by James PuUar's mortification, in 1804, the capital sum of L. 3000 affords annually L. 10 to the infirmary, L. 5 to the poor of the nine trades, and the same sum to the poor of the parish, — the remaining annualrent being for the mainte- nance and education of ten poor boys, and the support of as many old men or women. By Dr John Brown's mortification, in 1768, twenty bursars receive to an amount not exceeding L. 6 each a-year, and the boys L* 8 as an apprentice fee. The widows' fund, begun by the spouse of Bailie William Roger, and increased by others, af- fords to thirty-two widows Is. 6d. a week; and Anderson's bequest gives the same sum to twelve old men. By Whyte's mortification, twenty-two bursars receive L. 5 a-year, — the original patrons still acting, being Messrs James Jobson and Andrew Pitcairn. We shall state only the sums paid yearly for education, &c. by other five mortifications: — Steven's, L. 70; Constable's, L. 112; George Brown's, L. 60 ; Ferguson's, L. 50 ; and Halyburton's, (for maiden ladies of respectable families,) L. 41. The following are the payments made yearly to charities, or the support of members, by another class of institutions : The Hospital,* * The Hospital of Dundee was founded several centuries ago by the Earl of Craw- ford and Lyndsay, who bequeathed, for the maintenance of the poor citizens of Dun- dee, certain buildings upon the site of the old academy at the foot of South Tay Street, and some yearly rents to be used in maintaining them, as a Poor-House, or Afaison Dieu. This establishment was afterwards augmented by bequests and donations fVx>m other individuals ; and Queen Mary, in 1567, granted to the Hospital of Dun- dee, the lands, tenements, 8cc, belonging to the Dominican and Franciscan Frinrs DUNDEE. 51 Lb 515 ; Seaman's Fraternity, L. 1500; Guildry, L. 200; Mailmen, L.56; Nine Trades about L.700; and three United Trades, L. 13a Three benevolent societies distribute to the poor, yearly, as follows : The Indigent Sick Society, L. 160; the Female Society, L. 190; and the Clothing Society, L.40. Notwithstanding of all these and other resources, such as Grieve's mortification, (which maintains a patient in the lunatic asylum) and much private charity, and not- withstanding, too, that employment is at present readily procured, the assessment for the year ending February 1833 is L.2500; and for the year ending February 1834, it has advanced to L. 4000. The whole sum given annually, at present, for charitable purposes in Dundee, arising from assessment, collections, dues, subscrip- tions, mortifications, and corporations, (exclusive of what is expend- ed by religious societies,) does not amount to less than L. 11,000. In addition to the endowments already-mentioned, it may be re- corded, that Mrs Gibson of Edinburgh has this year placed L. 100 in the hands of the magistrates ; the interest to be applied for the preaching ,of a sermon yearly against cruelty to the brute creation. JaiL — The Jail of Dundee is, and has been for many years, al- together inadequate to the wants of the town. It forms part of the present Town- House ; and has room neither for the classifica- tion of prisoners, nor the insuring of their health. It will not do to allow the means we employ to correct vice to become nurseries for it. The administration of the law ought to be for the moral im- provement of the people ; and the personal comfort even of the most worthless is not to be unnecessarily destroyed. At present there are sixty-three persons in confinement, besides children ; eight for debt, and the rest for crime. A new jail, however, we have no doubt, will soon be built. The magistrates, who have the superin- tendence, have been accustomed to do every thing in their power, consistent with safety, to promote the health of the prisoners. The Graelic minister has been employed for many years back to officiate in the jail weekly as chaplain. * and Grey Sisters, consisting of the present burying-ground, and monastic buildings to the south, Serres-haugh, or Manorgons- Croft, now Hospital-waid, part of the pre- sent meadows and adjoining ground. From certain old records it would appear, that the lands and revenues of the hospital were once much more extensive and valuable than now. It is not above seventy years since decayed burgesses resided in the hos- pitaL The minister of the Cross church officiated to the establishment ; and he still reoetves part of his stipend from, the funds of the institution. It has since been found more wise to distribute the funds to persons residing in their own houses. * Means have been taken of late to obtain a new jail and bridewell ; and while we revise this statement, (in December 1833,) preparation is making to fit up part of the old steeple as a temporary receptacle for the prisoners. 52 FORFARSHIRE. In the administration of justice, Dundee has obtained a great boon by the appointment, a few years ago, of a sheriff-substitute. Formerly litigants and others aggrieved were compelled to resort to Forfar, the county town, a distance of fourteen miles. Consider- ing our population, the presence of a local judge is of great im- portance ; and the present sheriff, Mr Irving Henderson (as was the case with his predecessor), is an advocate of most respectable standing at the Scottish Bar. Inns. — There are three principal inns in Dundee, besides a number of respectable taverns. The whisky shops are most nu- merous and pernicious. Fuel. — The fuel used in Dundee is coal, Scotch and English. It is calculated that 30,000 bolls of Alloa coals are yearly consum- ed by the steam-engines alone ; 20,000 more of Scotch coal, and 100,000 of English coal, by private families. Taking these at 4s. a boll, the price will amount to L, 35,000 a-year. Miscellaneous Observations. Of late years the progress of improvement, especially in manu- facturing towns, has been rapid beyond all former experience ; and perhaps a better illustration of this can nowhere be found than in Dundee. In looking to the public works, the harbour, seminaries, spinning-mills, and opening of new streets, — the greater number of them have been undertaken within the last few years ; and there seems scarcely a limit, except change of trade, to the advancement and prosperity of the town. . Nor in the midst of public measures have more minute details been neglected. The rough pavement of our streets, which formerly seemed only of use for proving the springs of carriages, or affording exercise to the invalid within, is giving way to the system of Macadam ;* and our burying-ground, which lately presented an aspect gloomy to the eye, and uncom- fortable to the foot, has been beautified with walks and shrubs; so that the stranger lingers in this lone repository of the dust of many generations, and the mourner may be seen planting or tending * Our representative in Parliament, Sir Henry Parnell, has just published a vo- lume on road-making, containing great and varied information, in which he contro- verts some of the principles of Macadam. The plan recommended by Sir Henry is that employed by Mr Telford in constructing the Holyhead road and others. It con- sists in " making a r^ular bottom of rough dose-set pavement,*' and then a coating of broken stones added. Sir Henry describes the New Highgate Archway lload, which passes through a wet soil, as having a foundation of Roman cement and gra- vel, in place of pavement. The advantages of the plan recommended by Sir Henry are soitdUyy and consequent ease of traction^ besides being df icr, especially after frosts. DUNDEE. 53 flowers over the ashes of those she deplores. The example of this ought to influence those in other parishes who allow the rest- ing-place of the departed to remain covered with a desolation which is loathsome and sickening to the imagination and the heart. Why should they who believe in the immortality of the soul and the resurrection of the body, be rebuked in this respect even by the savage, and not love and honour the place where the ashes of their dead repose ? In concluding this account of the parish of Dundee, it seems un- necessary to add any farther remarks of our own. To draw a compa- rison betvirixt what it is now, and what it was forty years ago, when the last Report was published, would almost be to repeat what we have written. Its population has been more than doubled; its cha- rities have risen from L« 1900 to L. 7000; its shipping has increas- ed fourfold; and its linen trade been almost entirely called into ex- istence. But the reverse side of the picture must not be conceal- ed. The assessment for the poor has advanced tenfold. In 1791 it was L.400; it is now L. 4000. This, perhaps, is an evil inse- parable from prosperous communities. The poor generally flock to, or are rapidly increased in them ; and where multitudes are ga- thered together at various employments, example does not always favour economy, industry, and virtue. Nor is it easy, amidst the spirit of enterprise which is abroad, to suggest any improvement for the town, which is not in the course of being attempted. A new Jail and Bridewell, or perhaps House of Refuge, a supply of water, and a new burying-ground — the present one being fearfully over-crowded, — are generally believed to^be indispensably necessary ; and measures, as before intimated, are in progress to procure them. In population, manufactures, and trade ; in the luxury and comfort which prevail, Dundee has perhaps advanced faster than any similar town in the kingdom. There are men alive in it who remember when its po- pulation was only onc'-jifth of what it is now ; when its harbour was a crooked wall, often inclosing but a few fishing or smuggling craft ; when its spinning-mills were things unknown and unthought of; and its trade hardly worthy of the name. And curious would it be could we anticipate the future, and tell what will be its state, when another generation shall have passed away, and other hands shall perhaps be called to prepare a record of its progress or decline. Drawn up in \8S2— Revised Dec. 1833. PARISH OF MAINS AND STRATHMARTINE. PRESBYTERY OF DUNDEE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. DAVID CANNAN, D. D. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name J Boundaries^ 8fc. — The originaLname of Mains was Strath- dighty ; and no name could have been more descriptive, the parish being in the form of a valley or strath, and the rivulet of Dighty running through its whole length, and dividing it into nearly two equal parts. It appears to have been afterwards called the Mains of Fintry, the castle of that name being the principal object in the parish. The church and manse adjoining were considered perti- nents, and were designated accordingly. For a number of years past, the parish has been called by the name of Mains. It is not very clear how the name of Strathmartine came to be applied to the other parish. There is an erect stone on the north side of it called Martin's Stone ; and there is a traditionary story that this was erected in memory of a hero of the name of Mar- tin, who killed a dragon which had devoured nine maidens. It is probable that the whole parish derived its name from this person- age, and was called Martin's Valley or Strath. The united parish is six miles long, and from one to three broad, and contains about twelve square miles. A part of the parish of Murroes is said to belong to it quoad sacra ; but it is probable that no other annexation took place than that the people preferred to attend the church of Mains, as more convenient for them in respect of distance than their own. The parish is bounded by Dundee on the south, LiflF and Auch- terhouse on the west, Tealing on the north, and Murroes and Dundee on the east. Topographical Appearances. — The rising grounds on each side are nearly all cultivated ; they scarcely deserve the name of hills, MAINS AND STRATHMARTfNE. • 55 and are not 400 feet above the level of the sea. The valley has al- ways been considered a pleasant spot, affording a diversified landn scape of considerable richness and beauty. Climate^ — As the valley extends to the sea, it is subject to easterly winds and fogs, and the harvest is not so early, nor is the climate so genial, as in some of the inland parts of the countr}-. The Dighty, being the most considerable stream of water in the vicinity of Dundee, is used as a powerful engine in different ma- nufactures ; but since public works have been erected in the parish, the picture of pastoral life has been withdrawn, and the eye of the spectator is presented with a busy scene of human industry, and of the arts brought into practical operation for the benefit of man. There are few improvements that are not accompanied with some mixture of evil ; volumes of smoke are now seen issuing from en- gines along the whole line of the valley ; the bleachfields have ren- dered the water unfit for the use of cattle and for domestic purj)oses; the fish have disappeared ; the fumes emitted from the works are offensive to travellers, but still more to those residing on the spot, whose first sensation in the morning when they awake is that of the dilation of their lungs from a mixture of muriatic acid and chlorine gas. The health of the inhabitants, however, does not seem to he impaired ; nor are they peculiarly subject to fever or any other disease. Hydrography. — Tlie Dighty, the only stream of water in the parish, rises from two lakes in the parish of Lundie, and running with somewhat of a uniform declivity, falls into the sea, near the bar of the River Tay, in the parish of Monifieth ; its whole course not exceeding fifteen miles. It seldom overflows its banks, nor does it fall so low in dry weather as many streams of greater magnitude. As the branches or small rivulets that run into the Dighty are often drj' in summer, and the water in the river itself adulterat- ed, and rendered unfit for ordinary use, pit wells have become ne- cessary, not only for the accommodation of houses and farms, but fre<|uently for the benefit of grass-fields. There were formerly some bogs and marshes in the parish; but they have now all been drained, and only a few traces of them can be distinguished. There is only one spring that claims to be no- ticed. It is called Sinavey, and issues from the crevice of a perpen- dicular rock at the castle of Mains. It fills the whole aperture even in the driest weather, and consequently suflers no diminution. The water is considered in the neighbourhood as pccuharly sweet 56 FORFARSHIRE. and salubrious It has not as yet been analyzed with any correct- ness. Geology. — The greater part of the parish abounds with strata of gray slate ; the direction of which is chiefly to the north-west, and the dip an angle from 20^ to 25^ with the horizon. Beds of trap, however, are frequently interspersed, and the different knolls on the elevated situations are composed of that rock. The soil is almost entirely black loam, incumbent on rock, gravel, or clay. It abounds in alluvial deposits ; and there are numerous ridges ad- joining the Dighty which are masses of gravel or pure sand. The land is of ordinary fertility, and its situation near the har- bour and town of Dundee affords the means of high cultivation. With the exception of some pieces of moor and rocky knolls, which are generally planted, it is all under the plough ; and few oppor- tunities remain of observing what plants are indigenous to the soil. II. — Civil History. Historical Notices. — The union of the parishes of Mains and Strathmartine took place in the year 1799. The object of uniting these parishes was to lessen the pressure of the parochial burdens to the heritors, and to augment the living of the clergyman. A central church and manse was built soon after the union was effect- ed ; and adjoining them a piece of land was allotted to the minis- ter in lieu of the former glebes; and though the two schoolmasters continue, and there be now three burying-grounds, in all other respects the parishes are regarded as one. There are few historical events connected with the parish that have been preserved, and probably few that, if recorded, would be of much interest to the general reader. The present proprietors have acquired their lands in recent times; and any events that might be memorable in the lives of their forefathers, will fall to be recorded elsewhere. The chief proprietor for some centuries was Graham of Fin try. He was originally a cadet of the house of Montrose, and ac- quired his property in this parish and county by his marriage with a daughter of the Earl of Angus. His lands in this parish are now held by Mr Erskine of Linlathen, and the mausoleum in the church-yard is the only vestige of the ancient possessor. It may not be improper to mention, that Claverhouse, the residence of Lord Dundee, is likewise situate in this parish, and that an edi- fice, in the form of a ruin, has lately been erected on the site of MAINS AND STBATHMAUTINE. 57 his mansion, by his lineal male descendant, Mr Webster, former- ly Graham of Balmuir. Two obelisks, and some vestiges of a Roman camp, are the on- ly objects that excite the curiosity of the antiquary. Parochial Register. — The register of Strathmartine does not ex- tend fiarther back than the year 1783. The school-house having accidentally caught fire at that time, the parish records were con- sumed. The parish register of Mains commences with the year l6QSi and for a considerable time all the miscellaneous transac- tions of cash, as well as baptisms and marriages, and the nume- rous cases of discipline, which were carefully taken up and minutely examined at that period, are recorded promiscuously, as the events occurred, in one volume. From the nature of the offences that were subjected to pubUc censure, and the examination of the wit- nesses, much information may be obtained concerning the mo- rals, habits, and customs of the people. Incidental information is likewise procured concerning the state of agriculture. It may be true, that parochial discipline has relaxed as the people have be- come more refined ; but the cases reported in this register do not give us a favourable view of the morals of the seventeenth century. III. — Population. In 1801 y the population of the united parishes amounted to - 1442 1811, 1738 1821, 1779 1831, 2011 If the register of baptisms has been correctly kept, (and there is evidence that it has not been neglected,) we may calculate pretty nearly what has been the population of Mains for the space of two centuries. The number of baptisms in 1636 amounted to 24 ; in 1685, to 33 ; in 1734, to 31 ; in 1783, to 19 ; and in 1832, to 31. It is probable that the parish, after the middle of the se- venteenth century, reached to its present amount of population ; and that, after the middle of the eighteenth century, it reached its lowest point of depression. It is admitted, that, after the Union, Scotland did not flourish fgr more than half a century. The ca- pital engaged in trade was of trifling amount, and, by the suppres- sion of the Scottish Parliament, no small proportion of the rental of the kingdom being spent in England, labourers were thrown out of employment, and the spirit of improvement was restrained. When commerce began to flourish, agriculture revived; farms were enlarged ; cottagers, finding that higher wages could be ob- 58 FORFARSHIRE. tained in manufacturing labour, removed into towns, and the di- vision of labour effected a more complete separation between our town and country population. The yearly average of births in the united parish for the last^ seven years is 50 ; of deaths, 17 ; of marriages, 27. The average number of persons under fifteen years of age is 766 ; upwards of seventy, 41. The number of unmarried men, bachelors and widowers, up- wards of fifty years of age, is 13 ; and of unmarried women upwards of f<5rty-five, 6. The number of children in each family is from 4 to 5. There are two insane persons in confinement. There is also one fatuous, and one blind. The number of families in the parish is 354 ; whereof 89 are chiefly employed in agriculture, and 204 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft. Land'^xoners. — The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 is ten. Only Sir John Ogilvy, Baronet, of Inverquha- ritv, and Mr Laird of Strathmartinc, have mansion-houses in the parish ; and at the present time there is not a resident proprietor. Character^ Manners^ Sfc. of the People. — A considerable im- provement has taken place in the language of the people within the last forty years. Many Scottish phrases are becoming obsolete; and a number of trades-people speak English with considerable propriety. The low price of cotton and other stuffs has enabled the people to effect a great improvement in their dress. Their houses, with few exceptions, are white-washed in the inside, once, and many of them twice a-year; and there is an appearance of comfort wherever there are habits of industry or virtuous conduct. It would have been satis- factory to add, that there was also an improvement in morals, and in the discharge of religious duties ; but, while there arc many in- stances of zeal and real piety among the labouring classes, it must be admitted, that there is also much coldness and neglect. The introduction of bothies^ or apartments where servants are lodged by themselves, though advantageous in an economical point of view, has an opposite effect in regard to moral and intellectual improvement. The natural intercourse that subsists between the members of the same family ought to be very cautiously interfered with, or the young will inevitably suffer. A boy, when training to the labour of husbandry, and lodged in the same apartment with others of riper years, has often to listen to conversation which is but an indifferent substitute for parental instruction, prudent dis- MAINS AND STRATHMAnXINE. :>9 cipline, and affectionate reproof. In bothies attached to manufac- turing establishments, the evil is felt more severely, as tlie number of inmates is greater ; and, being assembled from a greater dis- tance, their modes of life are more varied, and bad example is more forcible and pernicious. The food of the male servants engaged in husbandry is a week- ly allowance of milk and oatmeal ; while, among tradesmen, fish, butcher-meat, pork of their own rearing, sugar, and tea, are in con- stant use. No article of food has increased so much in consump- tion as potatoes, which now constitute the chief sustenance of the poorer classes for one-half of the year. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The whole extent of land in the parish is about 7063 imperial acres. Of moor, rocky knolls, and steep banks that cannot be ploughed, there are 144 acres. A considerable part of the latter might no doubt be cultivated, but the capital at present would not be profitably laid out There is scarcely any natural wood in the parish; but 'the number of acres planted is 436. A considerable proportion of this wood is fir and oak, planted on ground unfit for tillage; and the thin- ning of the firs as they advance in growth is certainly too much neglected. The extent of ground occupied by roads, water-cour- ses, houses^ gardens, fences, plantations, moor, &c. is about 880 acres, — so that the amount of acres in actual cultivation is 6183. The parish is well-wooded ; hedge-rows are generally found on the boundaries of fields ; and the gentlemen's seats are adorned with thriving plantations. On moors of inferior soils the larch is not found to live above thirty or forty years. All the ordinary sorts of forest trees have been planted. The easterly winds, how- ever, seem rather adverse to their growth. At one glance it can be observed that the beech is the most prosperous. Th^re is a beech on an eminence at the castle of Mains seventeen feet in girth, a foot and a-half above the level of the ground, and, when in foliage, the appearance of its head is truly majestic. The names of numerous visitors are cut out on its trunk and branches. Its age is unknown. It is probable, however, that it has withstood the blasts and hurricanes of nearly two centuries. Rent of Land. — The average rent of cultivated land is nearly L.2, 10s. per acre ; but in this calculation is included a considerable extent of moorish ground, which has not been a long time in cul- 60 FORFARSHIRE. tivation. The old infield is let at L. 3, 5s ; but there are fields which, if let by themselves, would not yield more than 12s. or 14s. per acre, and obviously do not pay the expenses of their improve- ment. Rate of fVoffeSj Sfc-^The average rate of wages during the year for males employed in husbandry is L. 12 ; for females L. 6, inclusive of board. Labourers, without victuals, receive Is. 8d. per day in sunmicr, and Is. 6d. in winter: Masons, carpenters, &c. 2s. 6d. in summer, and 2s. in winter. Artisans, however, are now seldom paid by the day, but contract for different pieces of work. A plough will cost L. 3, 3s., a cart L. 14, the shoeing of a farm-horse for a year 12s. Husbandry. — The usual period of a lease is now only nineteen years. The character of the husbandry of the parish is derived from its vicinity to the populous town of Dundee, where abun- dance of manure can be procured, and where a ready sale is found for grass, turnips, and potatoes. The crop that yields the highest price is the most extensively cultivated, though the rules of good husbandry should be for a while suspended. A rotation of, 1. oats ; 2. turnips or potatoes ; 3. barley or wheat ; 4. grass — was for sometime commonly adopted. This rotation is now abandoned, and the land allowed either to remain above one year in grass, or the cropping is otherwise extended, so as to prevent the necessity of sowing with grass every fourth year. Some of the farmers, in- stead of selling their crops to the Dundee cow-feeders, have ex- tensive dairies themselves ; and several persons reside in the parish who have no land, but keep a number of cows, and are every day busily employed in conveying the crops they have purchased from the neighbouring farmers to their abodes, and again, in disposing of the produce of their dairies among the inhabitants of Dundee. A large extent of waste ground has been reclaimed within the last sixty years. About the year 1772, Mr Graham of Fintry began to improve an extensive waste in the neighbourhood of Dundee; and in 1790, Admiral Laird was actively employed in various improvements on the estate of Strathmartine ; and the plantations which he reared, particularly on the higher grounds, enrich the landscape, improve the climate, and afford a useful supply of timber for agricultural purposes. The agriculture of the parish remains very much in the same state to which it was raised by the high prices of grain during the war. The land may be said to be all drained ; and yet a little is still done in this MAINS AND STRATHMARTINE. G 1 way every year, to render the operation more complete. Most of the fields are inclosed with stone dikes and hedges ; and the farm- buildings are in tolerable repair; but it cannot be said, that in the last twenty years either houses or fences have been in any respect improved* The parish, however, has not suffered so much by the fall in the price of grain as many others. The great increase and pros- perity of the town of Dundee has afforded a ready market for green crops ; and there has not been a failure among the tenants during the existing leases. Quarries, — Perhaps there is no part of the country better sup- plied H-ith stone for every useful purpose than this district. Quar- ries abound everywhere, furnishing stones well adapted for every kind of building and inclosure ; and if the roads be not in excel- lent repair, it is not from the want of the best materials. In stating the gross amount of the raw produce raised in the parish, it is not easy to approach to anything like exactness. The quantity of produce, the price, and mode of cropping, vary in different years. The following statement, however, may give a general view of the subject to the reader :— 1296 acres of oats at L.7, - - L. 8G52 809 barley at L. 8, - - 0472 404i wheatatL.ll, - - 4449 10 618 turnips at L. 8, - - 4944 618 potatoes at L. 10, - - 6180 1296 new grass at L. 6, - - 7416 1236 pasture, at L. 2, 10s. - 3090 Uncultivated pasture, • - 36 Pasture in woods, . - . 72 10 Thinning of woods, - - - 210 Produce of gardens, ... 192 Total value of raw produce, - L. 41,714 Manufactures. — It has already been remarked, th«it the water of the Dighty is employed as a powerful auxiliary in the Dundee manufactures. Every fall that it affords is occupied with ma- chinery ; and three-fourths of the population of the parish are employed in works that have been established on its banks.. There are four bleach fields, two of which are of great extent, and four flax spinning-mills; and the machinery of the whole of these works is partly driven by steam. Besides the yam that is clean- ed at the bleachfield, there are other five mills of inferior con- struction, where yarn is washed and prepared for the loom. There 62 FORFARSHIRE. are two flour-mills, one of which, built two years ago by the Baker Corporation of Dundee, is of large dimensions, and in which steam is used in aid of the water-power. Several of the oatmeal-mills were displaced to make way for these manufacturing establish- ments; five of them, however, yet remain, which, being better constructed than formerly, are quite sufficient for manufacturing all the oatmeal consumed in the neighbourhood. A saw-mill, and several of the thrashing-mills are likewise driven by water. The hours of labour in the spinning-mills are from six in the morning to eight in the evening : the hours at the bleachfields are from six in the morning to seven in the evening ; and in both cases two intervals during the day are allowed for meals. The work at the bleachfields cannot be considered as very heavy, as the materials to be moved are light, and the labour, in general, performed in the open air. There are, however, sometimes extra hours of working; but the wages are increased in proportion to the time employed ; and while this labour is optional, it is expected that only the strong and healthy will engage in it. Though the wages given at the public works furnish the means of procuring the necessaries of life, and employment to those who may not be engaged in agricultural labour, — though a ready mar- ket be thus afforded for the produce of the soil, and the wealth of the country be greatly increased, — it is very questionable whe- ther these advantages be not counterbalanced by greater and very obvious evils. The Irish and Highlanders that are sometimes employed at the bleachfields are not of such habits as to improve public morals. V: — Parochial Economy. Market Toum. — As the parish reaches to the outskirts of Dun- dee, it is conveniently situate in regard to a market town. It is to Dundee that all the produce of the parish is carried for sale ; and it is there that all the articles required by the parishioners are purchased. Besides the two market days, Tuesday and Friday, there is an intercourse every day with the town. Tlie articles of ma- nufacture are constantly passing from the one place to the other ; labourers from Dundee are employed every day at public works ; children from the parish attend the seminaries in town ; and coun- try lodgings in this parish were at one time eagerly sought after by the inhabitants of the town during the summer months. Means of Cfnnmunication. — Three turnpike roads pass through MAINS AND STRATHMARTINE. G3 the parish, in length nearly eight and a half miles. On the one, leading from Dundee to Forfar, there are several public cojiches. There is likewise a railway from Dundee to the fertile vale of Strathmore, undertaken in the memorable year 1825, and since executed at an expense of nearly L. 100,000. At present it ter- minates on its entrance into the Strath ; and, as there is no trade in the district to which it reaches, it is not supposed that it can be a profitable concern until branches be formed to the nearest towns. In the meantime, it has opened up some excellent quarries, which supply the town and neighbourhood with stones at a cheaper rate than formerly. There are nine bridges over the Dighty, all of which are of small dimensions. EcclesiaMtical State, — The church is conveniently situate near the centre of the parish, and none of the inhabitants are distant from it above three miles. It was built in the year 1 BOO ; and contains 900 sitters. There are twenty-eight free sittings in it. Wlien it was built, it was thought to be too large for the parish, and some space was left unoccupied. Seats to accommodate 100 persons have been lately erected by the kirk-session ; and are let annually at the rate of two shillings to each sitter. I'he manse was built in 1801, is commodious, and kept in a good state of repair. The new glebe consists of twenty-two acres imperial, and might let for L. 3 per acre. The stipend consists of 3 b. 2 f. 1 p. 2? lip. wheat; 63 b. 2 f. 1 p. barley ; 106 b. 1 f. 1 p. 2 lip. meal ; I^. 72, Os. 2/3 d. ; and the teinds are exhausted. The total yearly amount of stipend, on an average of the last seven years, converted to money, is L. 251 Sterling. There is only one place of worship in the parish. Many of the labourers at the public works have no fixed residence, and spend the Sundays with their friends in Dundee or elsewhere. The number of families belonging to the Established Church is 328, and of Dissenters 32. Two of these Dissenters are Irishmen, who have married natives of the parish, and are Roman Catholics. There are no Episcopalians at present* The parish chitrch has hitherto been well attended, and the average number of communi- cants is 720. There is an annual collection for the Dundee Infirmary, which gives free admission to all the sick-poor of the parish. There is also an annual collection for religious purposes. The amount of such collections is generally about L. 10 a-year. Education. — There are two parochial schools; and two parochial 64 FORFARSHIRE. schoolmasters, who have all the emoluments and accommodations which the law requires. Practical mathematics, Latin, and some- times French and Greek, are taught. Each of the schoolmasters has the maximum salary, L. 34, 4s. 4Jd., and handsome dwelling- houses of two stories, lately built The average amount of school fees received by the schoolmaster at Strathmartine is L. 30 ; at Mains, L. 40 a-year. The yearly expense of a scholar for learning merely to read is 10s. ; when writing is added, the expense is 14s.; with the addition of arith- metic it is L. 1. The charge for Latin is L. 1, 10s. There are no persons belonging to the parish that cannot read, and few that cannot write ; but there are about sixteen children employed in the spinning-mills, some of whom have not been taught, and others can read very imperfectly. There is also a female school endowed by Dowager Lady Ogilvy, and two others, chiefly for sewing, taught by females. A subscription school in the parish of Dundee accommodates a few children who are farthest distant from the school of Mains ; but, in general, the distance from the schools is attended with little inconvenience. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 28 ; but the greater number of them have families. The al- lowances vary from L. 2 to L. 10 yearly. Four orphan children receive L. 22, 2s. besides clothes. L. 16 is paid yearly to the Dundee Lunatic Asylum. Annual amount of collections at the church for behoof of the poor, L. 82 1 1 dues of hearse and mortcloths, . . 9 16 9 seat rents, . . . . . 14 4 interest of money, . . . . 19 9 6 'fines, . . . . 19 1 beadle*s house rent, . . . . d 10 ■ contributed by heritors, . . . 9 110 L.ia9 11 5 There is certainly less aversion in the public mind to receive public aid than there was fifty years ago. With many, however, the spirit of independence is not yet broken, and some are ready to submit cheerfully to much inconvenience, rather than endure the degradation of receiving public charity. In this parish some coals are supplied gratis to the poor at the new year. Fairs. — There are two fairs held in the parish : one on the 26th of August, the other on the 15th of September. Sheep, cattle, and horses, are exposed at these fairs ; and servants are en- gaged. The dues of one of the fairs belong to the town of Dundee ; 4 MAINS AND STUATHMARTINK. 05 the dues of the other to Lord Douglas ; and disputes are settled by persons appointed by his Lordship. Alehouses. — There are six small alehouses in the parish, three of which are toll-houses. They are felt as a great nuisance to the sober and industrious part of the population. FueL — Coals from Sunderland, imported at Dundee, are the only fuel used in the parish ; and the carriage by water is not a heavy addition to the expense. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account was written, many changes of much importance have taken place in the parish. The increase of population has been in the manufacturing, and not in the agricul- tural class. By the introduction of machinery and improved im- plements, the manual labour employed in husbandry is gradually diminishing ; and, notwithstanding the extent of ground that has been reclaimed from barrenness, perhaps the number of agricul- tural labourers was never smaller than at the present moment. It is said in the last Statistical Account of Mains, that the erection of the first spinning-mill was then scarcely completed. Its history is not one of continued prosperity. Great profits were occasionally realized, cherishing sanguine hopes, which were blasted by sudden and extensive losses. The property has fre- quently changed owners ; and about twelve years ago, the works were diverted from their original purposes, and now constitute a part of the premises of the Claverhouse Bleaching Company. The mills that were erected at a later period have undergone similar changes. In the course of the last ten years, however, the linen trade has been greatly increased ; improved machinery has been in- troduced ; a much greater quantity of work has been performed ; experience has taught us how former errors may be avoided ; the mills have been greatly enlarged, and have been actively, and for the most part profitably, employed. The bleachfields have likewise been greatly increased and im- proved. Not only has the linen trade been much extended ; but a finer fabric of cloth is now manufactured. Improved modes of bleaching have been adopted ; and this branch of business is now in such a flourishing state, that new works would be erected if they were not opposed by the neighbouring proprietors as a public nui- sance. Trade and manufactures have advanced more within the vale of the Dighty, in the course of the last forty years, than they FORFAR. ' E 66 FORFARSHIRE. had done during the whole period that has elapsed since any of our race settled on its banks. The progress in agriculture has not been nearly so distinguish- ed ; but here also the improYements have been many and valuable. It is in this period that thrashing-mills have been introduced ; that the land has been drained ; that the alternate husbandry has been practised; that wheat has been regularly cultivated; and there can be no doubt that the culture of potatoes has increased from 70 to 80 per cent Many of the inhabitants of Dundee take a piece of ground from the farmers annually, plant, hoe, and take up their potatoes themselves ; and the exercise is considered to be salutary to those who are used to sedentarj^ employments. It was former- ly the custom, particularly among small farmers, to raise a quanti- ty of flax annually, which the females were employed in spinning during the winter months ; and the cloth when manufactured, and not used for household purposes, was sold, and constituted one of the items of profit or of rent The spinning-mills have abolished this practice, — the sound of the wheel is no longer heard in the far- mer's dwelling, — for this good reason, that the cloth can be bought at a cheaper rate than the former expense of spinning, which has been reduced from 2s. to 22d. per spindle. Females who formerly gained their livelihood by spinning, have now taken to weaving, and under certain restrictions, they do not suffer from the change of employment. There can be no doubt that our agriculture is susceptible of much improvement. The great evil under which this parish is now suffering, is the frequent repetition of the same crop on the same soil. There is a steady demand in Dundee for turnips, potatoes, and grass ; and these crops, particularly the grass, have become deficient from frequent repetition. Indeed clover is now so com- monly a failure, that tares are not unfrequently sown as a substi- tute. Turnips, potatoes, and sown grasses, have been introduced at a comparatively recent period. The appearance of the whole face of nature has thus been changed ; and the value of the pro* duce of the soil has increased to an extent that cannot be well con- ceived. December 1833, PARISH OF PANBRIDE. PRESBYTERY OF ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. DAVID TRAIL, D. D- MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries, — The name of the parish is evidently connected with St Bridget ; and it is more than probable that the prefix Pan is derived, not from the Latin word fanum^ a church, as has been supposed by some, but from the Celtic word pallin or bailing signifying a town ' or hamlet The historian Buchanan accordingly calls the parish Balbride, which signifies St Bride's town. The parish is fully more than five miles long in the direction of north-west to south-east, by about two broad. It is bounded by the sea on the south ; by the parishes of Barry and Monikie on the west; by Carmylie on the north; by Arbirlot on the north-east; and by a detached part of St Vigeans on the south-east. Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance of the parish and inmiediate neighbourhood is rather flat than hilly ; but there is a considerable declivity for some miles from the north to the south throughout the whole line of country between Dundee and Arbroath. The sea shore, which bounds the parish, is flat and very rocky, with a considerable accumulation of gravel along the margin of the water, among which a variety of pebbles is to be found fit for the lapidary. It is evident, from the state of the coast in this quarter, that formerly the ocean must have covered a great part of what is now dry and solid land; for along our shores a succession of banks may be traced, composed of sand and gravel; which must have been the boundaries of the sea at different and probably very widely separated periods. There are, indeed, a few partial inroads by the sea at various places ; but these are trifling, and must have been occasioned merely by the dashing of the waves against the softer banks during the storms of winter. 68 FORFARSHIRE. Throughout the parish the soil varies considerably : it is light and sandy on the coast : loam, and in some places approaching to clay in the middle : and moorish, with a till bottom in the northern extremity. Hydrography, — There is one mineral spring of the chalybeate kind in the parish, which might easily be formed into a well : but little attention is paid to it; and it has never been much frequent- ed, unless by persons in the immediate neighbourhood. Two small streams run through the parish, and unite about a mile from the sea. In various places along their course, these ri- vulets are bounded by pretty high rocks, from 25 to 50 feet, nearly perpendicular. Geology. — The range of the strata in the rocks above alluded to is from N. W. to S. E. The rocks in this place, as well as those on the sea-shore, are composed of soft sandstone, intermixed with masses of very hard compact limestone. These are very durable, and the weather seems to make no impression on them. Towards the head of the parish, within the woods of Panmure, there is a quarry of good hard freestone, which is fit for any purpose of ma- sonry, and of a fine colour. At a little distance, slates and pave- ment may also be got. It should be added, that the limestone is not in such quantities as to render it worth quarrying ; and that it is not pure, yielding only about 75 per cent. Botany, — The dpuble flowering Geum^ which I believe is a very rare plant in most parts of Scotland, I have sometimes met with on the banks of the rivulets which run through the parish. The greater part of the more showy wild flowers which formerly adorn- ed our fields have almost entirely disappeared. This is a proof that the soil is now better cultivated, and cleared of those plants and weeds which formed near half its produce about the middle of last century, except on a few fanns where the improved system of hus- bandry had been introduced. II. — Civil History. Eminent Persons. — The ancestors of Hector Boetius were Tor several generations proprietors of the barony of Panbride ; and that celebrated historian is generally supposed to have been born in this parish.* * About sixty years ago, there was found among some loose papers in the house of Panmure a short history of the county of Angus, written in elegant Latin, by Mr Edward, minister of Murrocs, containing both a geographical description of the PAXBUIDK. 69 One of the most ancient families of An^s is that of Panmure, to which the whole property of this parish belongs. Galfred de Maule appears to have held all the lands of Panmure by a charter from Edgar King of Scotland, signed and sealed in the year 1072. Parochial Registers. — These commence in the year 1693, and are regularly kept. Modem Buildings. — In the N. E. of the parish stands the spa- cious and massy house of Panmure, — the principal seat of the no- bleman to whom it belongs. It is built in an elevated situation, surroimded by extensive enclosures and plantations, and commands a fine prospect, especially to the south and east. — At a little distance, are still to be seen the vaults and foundations of the old castle of Panmure, long the residence of the Earls of that name. III. — Population. In 1801 the population amounted to 1583 1811 - - - 1412 1821 - - - 1275 1831 - - - 1268 The decrease has been owing to the removal of some villages, and to the uniting of a few small fanns into one. The average number of baptisms yearly for the last seven years is 32 ; of marriages, 13 ; of deaths, 22. The number of families in the parish is 300 ; whereof 88 are chiefly employed in agriculture ; 103 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft; and 109 not comprised in the two preceding classes. Character and Habits of the People. — The people in general are sober and moral in their habits ; and regular in their attendance on public ordinances. They are also, as might be expected, in- dustrious and frugal ; and are altogether a very respectable por- tion of the community. The ordinary food of the peasantry consists chiefly of potatoes, and of the various preparations of oatmeal ; with occasionally a little butcher-meat, generally pork, at dinner. Tea is in universal use, from the highest to the lowest On the whole, though many are liable to participate in the occasional depressions of trade, it may be stated that the people enjoy in a reasonable degree the comforts and advantages of society. eountyy and an account of every family of note belonging to it. lliis literary curio- aty, of which, after particular inquiry, no other copy could be found, was translated and published by Mr Traill, the Late minister of St Cyrus, in the year 1793. 70 FORFARSHIRE. IV, — Industry, Agriculture and Rural Economy. The quantity of land in the parish now in cultivation, and occasionally Acres, in tillage, is - - - - 4100 Uncultivated, In moor and natural pasture, - - 700 In wood, ... 600 1300 Capable of being cultivated with a profitable application of capital, - In undivided common, - - - . . Rate of Wages. — Farm-servants' wages may be stated at L. 11 per annum ; with 6| bolls meal rated at L, 6; and three choppins of milk for one-half of the year, and two for the other half, which may amount to L. 3. A certain quantity of potatoes, as may be agreed on, is frequently given ; and, if married, the ser- vants generally have a house and small garden in addition. La- bourers' wages per day in summer are Is. 8d. ; in winter Is. 3d. for good hands, and for ordinary hands. Is. Husbandry. — The improved system of husbandry is generally, almost imiversally adopted. The fields are well cultivated, and kept in good order. Draining and lime are the two great means of improvement in this quarter: Common dikes and thorn hedges, the usual fence. Common black cattle are best for this part of the country. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, so far as can be ascertained, is as fol- lows : — m 11,000 bolls of grain, at 25s. per boll, on an average of each kind, L. 13,750 425 acres of turnips, at L. 6, consumed on the farm, - 2,550 225 acres of potatoes, at L. 10 per acre, - - 2,250 1,000 acres of grass, from which is made into hay from 7500 to 8000 stones, say 7725, at 8d per stone, - . 257 10 L. 18,807 10 Flax, which some years ago was raised in considerable quanti- ties on almost every farm, is hardly to be seen in any part of the pa- rish. It may be added, that, of three farms consisting of 370 Scots acres, the average produce is 1300 bolls grain, 925 bolls potatoes, turnips in proportion, and 1000 stones of hay : 80 acres are in pas- ture. Fisheries. — At East and West Haven, fishing-boats are in con- stant operation. Each boats-crew (of which there are three at East Haven,,) pays 5s. 6d. as teind to the proprietor ; and the ground- rent for a dwelling-house is Is. 6d. At West Haven, the ground- PANBRIDE. 71 rent is 2s. 6d. ; and the boat's teind (for the privilege of fishing) payable by each of the three crews there, is 5s. 3d. In the proper season, which is between the beginning of Febru- ary and end of May, lobsters are caught in great quantities for the London market, and carried up alive in vessels fitted for the pur- pose with what are called wells, which freely admit the sea-water during their passage. Sea-weed is also put into the wells, on which the lobsters may feed. Such as are caught before the arrival of the smacks, which come along the coast every two weeks, are put into a large chest fixed among the rocks, within flood-mark, with their claws tied with small cord, so as to prevent their destroying one another; and in this state they remain until they reach the Thames. — Crabs are also got in abundance, but they are all disposed of in the neighbourhood.* — Cod, in winter, is often caught in great quantities, and salted in casks for exportation. Haddocks, like- wise, are abundant, and form the principal part of our fishery, fur- nishing an ample supply for the surrounding country, especially for Dundee and Forfar, where they find a ready market. Indeed, the fishery on this part of the coast is of great advantage to the whole neighbourhood, as it produces a very considerable supply of whole- some food for all classes of the inhabitants. Manufactures, — There is only one mill, — a flax-spinning one, in the parish. It is on a very limited scale ; but, limited as it is, it is quite sufficient to show the demoralizing effects which such esta- blishments have on those who are engaged in them. Hitherto, in these establishments a great proportion of the rising generation has been trained up in ignorance, profligacy, and vice, and afterwards sent abroad into the world to corrupt and contaminate all who come into contact with them. It is to be hoped that these abuses will now be corrected by legislative enactments. Navigation. — There are four vessels belonging to this parish j from 43 to 65 tons burden each. V. — Parochial Economy. Villages. — There are several villages in the parish ; but only two of considerable extent, — East and West Haven, about a mile distant from each other. The first contains 118 inhabitants; the other, with a small landward village adjoining it, 304. Means of Communication. — There is no built harbour at either • It may be worth recording, that a few years ago a lady in lliis neighbouihootl found half a guinea in the l>ody of a crab, after it was boiled and brought to table. 72 FOKFARSlllRE. of the villages above-mentioned ; but there is an open loading- place, where vessels of from 60 to 80 tons burden may deliver their cargoes, which are chiefly of coal and lime. During the sum- mer there is a considerable trade in this way ; but in winter it is entirely at a stand, as no ships could with safety put into so un- sheltered a situation. There is the convenience of a post-office at Muirdrum, a small village on the great line of road between Dundee and Arbroath; and a daily post by the mail-coach both to the north and south; be- sides three other public coaches regularly at difierent hours of the day, and carriei-s generally twice a-week to Dundee and Arbroath. Ecclesidstical State. — The church here is undoubtedly very old, though it is impossible to specify the date when it was built. It appears that the original form of the house was a cross. The arms to the south and east, as they first stood, were removed, and the one to the east was rebuilt in the year 1681. The external fabric is not so handsome and regular as might be wished, owing to the addition now noticed, and the great irregularity of the windows both in size and situation ; but within, it is in excellent repair, and even elegant In the year 1775, it was completely repaired. It accommodates nearly 600 sitters. The average number of communicants annually for the last twelve years is 508 ; and the church is in general well attended. The number of Seceders in the parish is 53 ; of Episcopalians, 5 ; of Independents, 2. The stipend is, of wheat, 18 b. 3 f. 3J lip. ; of barley, 78 b. 2 f. 1 p. ; of meal, 105 b. 2 f. 1 p. ; of money, L. 43, 15s. 5 Jd. ; and in lieu of pasture, L. 1, 13s. 4d. The teinds are now exhaust- ed ; and of course there is no allowance for communion elements. The total amount of the stipend, converted ta money, on an ave- rage of the last three years, is L. 245, 4s. 4d. a-year. The glebe consists of 4 acres, 1 rood, and some falls of good land. The manse was built in 1765; repaired in 1799; and it received a large addition in 1811. Education. — There are two schools in the parish, with excel- lent teachers. One of these is parochial, the teacher having a sa- lary of L. 34, 4s. 4d., and fees to the amount probably of L. 30 a-year. The other is merely for girls to be instructed in needle- work and English reading. But besides these, there is a small private school in the upper part of the parish, for the benefit of such as are too remote from the parochial school. There is also PAXBRIDE. 73 a Sabbath school regularly kept The means of elementary in- struction are thus sufficiently provided to the parish, and there are DO persons in the parish betwixt 6 and 15 years of age unable to read. Library. — There is a parish library, consisting ahnost entirely of religious publications. Poor. — The number of poor on the roll varies from twelve to eighteen ; and they are all maintained in their own houses. But besides these, there is a considerable number of householders in indigent circumstances, who receive each a boll of coals from the poors' funds. The poors* funds, bearing interest, amount only to L. 73 ; but a considerable sum arises from the mortcloth and hearse fees, and the rent of one of the galleries in the church, which belongs to the session ; and also from the back seats in the Panmure loft, which Lord Panmure has for some years past permitted to be let for behoof of the poor. The average yearly amount of coUections in the church for the last seven years is L. 37, lis. lO^d. There are no assessments for the ordinary poor. But there are three lunatic paupers connected with this parish, in different asylums, the expense of whose board is L. 50 ; of this sum the heritor pays one-half, and the tenants the other. Alehouses. — Of these there are five in this parish, and two of them might well be spared. It is, I think, the remark of Kotze- bue, in his Travels through Russia, that wherever he came to the neighbourhood of a public house, he uniformly found the morals of the people corrupted, and their character debased ; and perhaps the same observation will hold good in every part of the world, where such haunts of idleness and profligacy are to be met with. December 1833. PARISH OF ARBROATH. PRESBYTERY OF ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. GEORGE GLEIG, MINISTER.* THE REV. WILLIAM STEVENSON, ASSISTANT AND SUCCESSOR. THE REV. JOHN COOPER, ASSISTANT. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries. — The ancient name of the parish was Aberbrothock, of which Arbroath is a corruption. Amongst the peasantry in many parts of the counties of Forfar and Kincardine, it is pronounced Arbroad. The original name is descriptive of the situation at the mouth of the Brothock, a small river, which here discharges itself into the German Ocean, and which, in the Gaelic language, is said to signify the muddy stream. The parish is about three miles in length, varying in breadth from one to ten furlongs. Its extent may be estimated at 820 English acres, and in shape it may be said to bear some resem- blance to a boot. Topographicai Appearances. — Within the limits thus described, there is nothing approaching in elevation to a hill. The ground rises gradually as it recedes from the shore, till at the farther ex- tremity of the parish it attains to a height of about 160 feet above the level of the sea. The extent of coast is nearly a mile and a-half. The shore is flat, with a rocky bottom, and forms the ter- mination of the level coast, which extends eastward from the mouth of the river Tay. In the adjoining parish of St Vigeans, it as- sumes a very bold appearance, presenting a line of elevated rocks, with numerous caves and fissures. Hydrography. — It may be noticed that there is a spring near the west end of the town of a chalybeate nature, and which, although now in a great measure overlooked, was at one time much resorted • This Account has been drawn up by the Rev. Thomas Doig» Minister of Tor- ryburn, formerly Assistant in this parish. ARBROATH. 75 to. About two miles from the town there was formerly a small lake, which has been drained these many years. It still retains the name of Bishop's Loch. The only stream in the parish, with the exception of a small burn which falls into it, is the Brothock. Unless when flooded after rain, it discharges a very inconsiderable quantity of water into the sea. It takes its rise in the parish of St Vigeans, and, after a course of about six miles, enters the pa- rish of Arbroath, through which it flows about a quarter of a mile, when it falls into the ocean. As the source whence the stream is gathered which drives a considerable number of spinning-mills, it is of no little value to the place. Geology and Mineralogy. — The country part of the parish be- ing a narrow strip of land, is distinguished by no peculiarity under this head which may not be described with more propriety in the account of the adjoining parishes of Arbirlot and St Vigeans. At the farther eixtremity, where the ground is from 140 to 160 feet above the level of the sea, the soil is thin, with a clay bottom ; nearer the town of Arbroath it is black loam ; and along the coast it is light and sandy. Zoology. — The zoologist will find none of the more rare species of animals in the parish. In the neighbouring ocean is to be had an abundant supply of fish, consisting chiefly of the haddock, the cod, and the flounder, with herring and mackerel in their season. Stake-nets were erected a few years ago, in the hope of establish- ing a salmon fishery, but the success has not been such as to de- fray the expense. Shell-fish, viz. crabs and lobsters, are procured in great plenty. II. — Civil History. Illustrative of this department, there do not appear to be any ancient or modern accounts of the parish in print or manuscript, with the exception of a series of brief notices in the Arbroath Ma- gazine, — a publication which was begun and ended in the year 1800. The only other historical or descriptive statements regarding Ar- broath, are those to be met with in works which refer to Scotland in general. A " Description of the Abbey of Arbroath, by James Thomson," was published at Arbroath in 1829, which contains a good deal of interesting, and, seemingly, correct, information, in a condensed form. Historical Events. — In ancient times, one of the most important of these was the celebrated Assembly of the Estates of Scotland, 76 FORFARSHIRE. held in the Abbey in 1320, when a declaration was drawn up and signed, asserting the independence of the Scottish Church and kingdom, in language to which the Roman pontiff was not much accustomed in these days. In 1445, in consequence of a dispute about the election of a bailie of regality, a battle was fought near the town between the families of Lindsay and Ogilvie, in which the leaders of both houses fell, with about 500 of their followers. The next event of importance known to have taken place was the destruction of the buildings of the Abbey in the sixteenth century. The particulars have not been fully ascertained ; only, the demo- lition appears to have taken place before the Reformation. Tra- dition says, it was accomplished by Ochterlony of Kelly, a pro- prietor in the neighbourhood, who had quarrelled with the monks, and had recourse to this method of avenging himself. In more recent times the town acquired a sort of notoriety, in consequence of a visit from one Captain Fall, commander of a French privateer, who appeared in sight with his vessel on the 23d May 1781, and commenced firing on the place. Having thus exhibited a speci- men of his intentions, he sent several of his men, with a flag of truce, on shore, demanding L. 30,000 Sterling as the ransom of the town, and six of the principal inhabitants as hostages till the siun should be paid. Considerable alarm followed. But at last, after a variety of proposals had been made, a few of the townsmen presented themselves on the beach with such fire-arms as could be most readily procured, and bade defiance to the threats of the privateer. After expending some more of his shot during the night, and finding next morning that he had done little or no damage, the captain made off in all haste, and found an oppor- tunity of gratifying his desire of plunder, by making prizes of se- veral sloops that fell in his way. A battery was afterwards erected in front of the harbour as a means of defence, but was dismantled after the last general peace. Maps^ Plans. — No separate map of the parish is known to exist. A plan of the town, including the suburbs in the parish of St Vi- geans, was drawn, and published by Wood in 1822. Letters^ Papers^ Sfc. — Of these, in the possession of resident in- dividuals, and tending to illustrate the biography, history, or anti- quities of the parish, there appear to be none. The ancient re- cords of the burgh have been lost. Several papers, however, re- lating to the Abbey of Arbroath, which are the property of Lord ARimOATII. 77 Panmure, have of late been intrusted to the care of the ma^strates and are preserved among the existing records of the town. Amongst the documents in the possession of the kirk-session is a roll, 1)eau- tifully written on parchment, dated 1445, exhibiting a statement of the dues payable from several crofts in the town and its immediate vicinity, for upholding lights in the Lady Chapel, which appears to have stood near to the present harbour. In this document the following streets and crofts are enumerated, viz. Neugate, Seygate, Keumarcatgate, Marcatgate, Grjmysby, Mylgate, Lortburngjite, Appylgate, Ratonraw, and Cobgate. These are all now built upon as streets, with the exception of Newgate, which is only partially occupied with houses. Grimsby was built upon during the latter part of the last century. To what extent the other places men- tioned in the roll were built upon in the fifteenth centur\', we have no means of determining. In ancient times, Cobgate was the name given to that part of the High Street which is below, and Raton- raw to that part of it which is above, the present parish church. Eminent Characters. — We are not aware of any distinguished warrior, statesman, or author, connected with the parish, either by birth or residence. It is the burial-place, however, of one of the kings of Scotland ; William the Lion having been interred in the Abbev, which he founded. Ijond-cvofners. — The superiority of the property is vested in the corporation of Arbroath. Parochial Registers. — These consist of the kirk-session minutes, whose earliest date is 1669 ; and of the records of births and bap- tisms, and of marriage-contracts and marriages, which commence in 1659. They are in general in a good state of preservation. The entries of marriages are defective in 1659, 1661, 1696, 1697, 169B, and 1700; and of births and baptisms in 1660, 1661, 1696, 1697, 1698, 1699, and 1700; and the volume or volumes contain- ing both, from 1735 to 1748 inclusive, have been lost. There is no record of the proceedings of the kirk-session from 1684 to 1732, nor from 1735 to 174a Antiquities. — Under the head of antiquities Arbroath has been long celebrated for the ruins of its abbey. This edifice was founded by King William the Lion in T178, and dedicated to the memory of Thomas a Beckct, Archbishop of Canterbury. The precincts of the abbey were inclosed with a stone wall from 20 to 24 feet in height; and formed an area 1150 feet in length from 78 FORFARSHIRE. north to south, and in breadth 706 feet at the north, and 484 at the south end. At the north-west comer there is a tower, still entire, 24 feet square and 70 feet high, formerly used as the Re- gality prison. The ground-flat is now converted into a butcher's shop. Another tower, somewhat smaller, stood at the south-west corner of the inclosure ; which, with the addition of a slated spire, served for many years as a steeple to the present parish church. Having become ruinous, it was taken down in 1830, and a remark- ably handsome spire, 152 feet in height, has been erected in its place. The main entry to the area was by a stately porch on the north side. If it had not been that, a few years ago, the vaulting was taken down under an apprehension of insecurity, this would have been entire. For defence it appears to have been furnished with a portcullis, which now forms the armorial bearings of the town of Arbroath. There was another entry, but far inferior in architectural display, at the south-east corner, known by the name of the Damgate, A considerable portion of the north side of the inclosure was occupied by the abbey church. The dimensions of this building were, — length, 270 feet; length of transept, 132 feet; of the nave, 148 feet; and of the choir, 76 J feet; breadth of transept, 45 J feet; of the central aisle, 35 feet; and of each of the side aisles, 16 J feet From marks, visible on the walls, the height from the pavement to the roof appears to have been 67 feet The building is now in a state of ruin. All that remains is the south wall, with part of the east and west ends. A por- tion of the two western towers still exists in a very mutilated condition. The great entrance at the west end of the church is entire, with indications of a circular window above. A similar window, on a smaller scale, is to be seen in the upper part of the wall of the south transept The other windows which remain* are in the early-pointed or lancet-shaped style. The pillars which supported the roof of the church are all demolished ; but their foundations may be traced without difficulty. Adjoining to the south transept, on the east, is a building, said to have been the charter-house of the abbey. It consists of two vaulted apart- ments, the one above the other, in a state of good repair. Imme- diately in front of this, and of the south transept, appear to have been the cloisters ; and at a short distance from the south wall of the nave, are the remains of the abbot's house, which is still inha- bited as a private mansion. On the whole, the buildings, although, 4 ARBROATH. 79 when entire, they must have had an imposing aspect, were infe- rior, in point of magnificence, to some others of which Scotland could boast Little is known respecting the historj^ of the abbey, although it was much celebrated in its day. The monks were brought from Kelso, and were of the Tyronensian order. The abbot exercised episcopal jurisdiction within his precincts, and had a seat in Parliament Of those invested with this dignity, two may be mentioned as distinguished, — Gawin Douglas, who was afterwards bishop of Dunkeld; and Cardinal Beaton, who held this along with his other dignities, and who appears, during his incum- bency, to have alienated part of the property of the abbey. After the Reformation, the revenues and unalienated possessions of this wealthy estabUshment were erected into a temporal lordship in fa- vour of Lord Claude Hamilton, third son of the Duke of Chatel- herault. Lord Arbroath is one of the present titles of the Duke of Hamilton. These revenues afterwards came to the Earl of Dysart, from whom Patrick, first Earl of Panmure, in 1642, pur- chased them, including the patronage of thirty-four parish churches. In Thomson's account of the abbey the following statements are given of the revenues at the time of the reformation. " At the visitation of the monasteries in the years 1561 and 1562, by the commissioners appointed by the privy-council, the revenues of this establishment, as registered in the various books of the commis- sioners, were found in money and in kind to be : — 1*^, By the Re- gister of the Collectors of the third of the ecclesiastical benefices, L. 2483, 5s. Wheat, - 26 Chalders. 9 Bolls. 1 Firlots. Pecks Bear, . 118 7 2 Meal, . 168 8 2 Oats, 27 10 3 2i Salmon, 1 Last, 3 Barrels. 2d^ By the Register of Assumptions of the whole benefices, L.2553, 14s. ^licat, - 3 Chalders. 3 Bolls. 3 Firlots. 2 Pecks. Bear, - 143 9 2 Meal, - 196 9 2 Oats, - 27 11 Salmon, 3 Lasts, 1 Barrel. Omitted, capons, grassums, dawikis^ and all other services and ffmall duties, as also the dependent churches of Abernethy, Moni- t 80 FOKFARSHIRE. fieth, and Tannadice." A Latin rent roll in the Book of Assump- tions, which was returned soon after 1561, gives, in addition to the salmon, three barrels o{ glyssort (grilses), and the valuation of the churches of Abernethy, Tannadice, and Monifieth, thus : — Aber- nethy, L.273; Tannadice, L.237, 5$. 4d. ; Monifieth, wheat, 4 ch. 12 bolls; bear, 12 ch. 9 bolls; meal, 15 ch. 10 bolls. The ■ books, both of surplus and annexation of the third of the ecclesias- tical benefices, give L.2594 as the money revenue; and in all the other articles they agree with the registers of the collectors and of assumptions, except in the single article salmon. In, 1530, the order issued for the yearly provision for the abbey was, to purchase 800 wedders, 180 oxen, 11 barrels of salmon, 1200 dried cod fish, 82 chalders of malt, 30 o'f wheat, and 40 of meal, in addition to the rent in kind paid by the tenants. This may seem extraordi- nary, inasmuch as the number of monks was only twenty-five. But it is accounted for when we consider that visitors of all ranks, in- cluding at times the king himself, with a retinue of nobles, were gratuitously entertained in such establishments. The churches, the patronage of which belonged to the abbey, were Arbroath, Ar- birlot, Panbride, Lunan, CongschoUis, now Inverkeillor, Inver- keillor or St Murdoch's, Monikie, Murroes, Mains, Monifieth, Dunnichen, Clova, Ruthven, Glammis, Kirriemuir, Kingoldnim, Newtyle, Garvock, Dunivaig, Abernethy in Stratheme, Inverness, Mornack or Auchterarder, BanflF, Gamry, Langley, Guild, Kin- gennie, Banchory or Trinity, Bethlehem or Bethelney, Forgue, Ty- rie, Tarves, Nigg, and Fetterangus. In the year 1815, the Barons of Exchequer ordered the ruins of the abbey to be so far repaired as to preserve them from total dilapidation. On this occasion the rubbish was removed, and a portion of the pavement of the church again exposed to view. A search was also made with a view to discover, if possible, the tomb of the royal founder. The lid of a stone coffin was found, with the mutilated figure of a man in alto relievo. But no evident tokens of King William's sepulchre ap- peared, although, since that time, the old wily sexton has been ac- customed to exhibit to credulous visitors a few mouldering bones in a wooden box as those of the monarch ; — and, although bone af- ter bone has been abstracted, new ones have always been found to supply their place. Modem Buildings. — Dedicated to the purposes of religion, the most conspicuous of these are the parish church and chapel of ease. There is nothing, however, worthy of remark in the appear- 3 ARBROATH. 81 ance of either. Only it deserves to be noticed that the spire of the church, which was rebuilt in 1831, is one of the most elegant structures of the kind to be seen in Scotland, and reflects much credit od the architect, Mr Henderson of Edinburgh. It is in what is commonly designated the Gothic style, and was erected at the expense of L#.1300, a considerable part of which was raised by voluntary subscription. The Episcopal chapel has a plain exterior, but is neatly fitted up within. The dissenting meeting-houses are of a very homely aspect, but most of them, nevertheless, are groan- ing under a load of debt The Town-house is a handsome build- ing, erected in 1806. Besides the great hall, which is an elegant room, it contains an office for the use of the town-clerk, and apart- ments for the meeting of the town-council and the small-debt court In the upper part of the building is the prison, which is now made secure, and is kept in excellent order. The Guild-hall is a plain unostentatious edifice. The Trades-hall was erected in 1814, at an expense, the weight of which is still felt by the incorpora- tions. The academy, built partly by private sub^ription in 1821, has a chaste appearance.* In front is an excellent play- ground for the scholars. Amongst the public buildings in the pa- rish may be mentioned the Signal-tower for communicating with the Bell-Rock light-house, which is twelve miles distant, on a rock in the ocean. Several of these structures are built of stone brought from the shores of the Firth of Forth, whilst others are composed of a red sandstone from quarries in the immediate neighbourhood. Of this last kind of stone most of the houses in Arbroath are built The colour, however, does not appear to be a favourite one, as many of the proprietors have lately painted the outside of their houses, so as to give them the appearance of a light gray. The town, as a whole, cannot be called handsome. Part of the High Street looks well ; but most of the other streets are narrow. And although elegant houses are to be met with in most quarters of the town, the generality have a very ordinary appearance ; and, in the cross streets, many of the houses are only one storey in height III. — Population. The registers of marriages and baptisms furnish the only means by which an estimate may be formed of the population of the parish in ancient times. Taking these as data, the number of in- habitants may be calculated to have been 1500 about the time of * Tlie building of the Academy cost L. 1600. FORFAR. F 82 • FORFARSHIRE. the Restoration,^ in the year 1660. At the Revolution, in 1688, the number appears to have been 1400. In 1707, the year of the Union, it had apparentlyrisen to 2000 ; and in 1715, the year of the first RebeUion, to 2300. As the result of actual enumera- tion, the population is stated to have been 2098 in the year 1755 ; 3943 in 1776 ; and 4676 in 1792. The following are the returns which have been made since the conmiencement of the present century. In 1801, 2057 Males. 2886 Females. 4943 in all. 1811, . . 2267 3013 52B0 1821, ■ . 2694 3315 6009 182d, . . 2927 3550 6477 1831, . 3203 3740 6943 In the enumerations of 1801 and 1811, resident seamen are not included. In the three subsequent enumerations they are in- cluded. The increase which the returns successively exhibit may be ascribed chiefly to the establishment and extension of the staple manufactui:e of the place. Of the population, as above stated, nearly the whole must be viewed as belonging to that part of the town of Arbroath which is situated within the parish. Divided into town andxountry, the population at the following periods may be stated thus : — In 1792, 4545 Town. 131 Country. 1801, 4763 180 181 r. 5068 J212 1821, 5751 258 1823, 6217 260 1831, 6624 319 The' yearly average of births recorded during the last seven years is 197 ; to which may be added 20 as the average of those not recorded, making in all an average of 217 births yearly, or 1 to 32 of the existing population. For the same period, the year- ly average of marriage-contracts, where both parties resided in the parish, was 39f ; where the man only resided, \S\ ; and where the woman only was resident, 15^. It is only since the beginning of the year 1828 that a register of burials has been accurately kept. During a period of four years from that date, there have been interred in the church-yard of Arbroath, on an average each year, 140^ persons who died in the parish ; 73^ who died in the suburbs of the town, in St Vigeans' parish ; 7 9 who died in the country part of the parish of St Vigeans ; and 3 who died else- where. Probably 10 persons may die annually in the parish of 3 ARBROATH. 83 Arbroath, who are interred elsewhere. This would exhibit 150 deaths yearly in the parish, or 1 out o{ 46 of the existing popu- lation* Ages of the persons interred. Ages. 1— 2 2— 5 6—10 10—15 15—20 ao— 40 - Persons. 150 65 75 47 28 di 66 55 Ages. Persons. Ages. Persons. 40—50 - 49 91-3 50-60 - 48 92 - 1 * 60—65 - 48 94-2 65—70 - 52 95-1 70—75 - 47 98-1 75—80 - 45 99-1 80—85 - 46 Unknown, 11 85—90 - 22 Total, 898 The foIIowiDg is a statement of the diseases, of which the per- lons above enumerated are understood to have died. The state- ment depends altogether on the report of the relatives or friends of the deceased, and has therefore no pretensions to scientific ac- curacy; yet, as it may not be wholly useless, it is here exhibited. Consumption, - 198 Age and decay, 184 Water in the bei^, 50 Hooping-cough, - 49 SdU-bom, - 45 Bowel complaint, - 44 Croup, - - 41 Ferer, - - 40 Inflammation, - 31 Accidents, viz. killed, drowned, scalded, 28 Apoplexy and paralysis, 23 Bowel-hive, - 22 Dropsy, - - 17 Inward complaint, 17 Child-birth, - 16 Asthma, . . 15 Smdl-pox, - 15 MefialeSf - 13 Cramp, - - 11 Teething, - 10 Cancer, - 4 Jaundice, - 3 Complaint in the head, 3 Hysterical fits, - 2 Gravel, - - 2 Mortification, - 3 Stomach complaint, 2 Vomiting of blood, 2 Sore throat. Exposure to cold, . White-swelling, Broken I^, Wound in the 1^, Untimely birth, Suicide, - Jj^ Not suted, - i Total, . 898 The following is a tabular view of the population in 1831, above 20 years of age, exhibiting the number of persons who are single, married, and widowed. Males. Females. Total. , Widowers Ages. Single. Married. Widowers. Single Married. Widowi Single. Married. and Widows. 20-^.30 339 176 1 404 250 11 741 426 12 30—40 95 298 11 162 336 37 267 634 48 40—45 19 97 4 42 109 16 61 206 20 45—50 11 130 8 23 102 38 34 232 46 above 50 41 331 84 128 254 308 169 1262 565 392 1 Total 505 1032 108 757 1051 410 2083 518 N. R — Of the population under twenty years of age there are four males and four females married, and one female a widow. *'" FQBFABSHIRE. Tabular view of the number of families and bouses. Funiltes, Inhabited homes. Uninhabited bouies, Houwe building, The following is a tabular view of the employments of tlie whole population of the parish of Arbroath.* MJ,* l.-™al« T...»1 1 ai. lull '"'" 'J(P. 2o.|Toui 411 ifi .V 13 a ]>) 53 id 75 47J IH, m; :iv 17; ,-1* lllfi 14.^ I.V w IHT 771 17. 941 Wholesale, cspitsllsu. banlcra, ) 1.' i-jj ■ji l»l 1! (4. » 'f IH X .s; i I2f Shi|.m«.er» -nd n,Brinfr«, . (fi 'JK UK 67 28! J );.i v.v, 15- I02 25< All otlier pcTsoni, Tot«l at) lltUI l'27!i I4W laia ^(Jl 1587 2399 39B( i64a 1556 »203 »22() 152( 1740 SB65307e G94fl It may be here remarked, that the parish can boast of no family of noble blood ; and that almost all depend, more or less, on some line of business as a means of subsistence. The number of pro- prietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, who are resident in the parish, and have property within the same, is two; and even these are only feuars from the corporation of Arbroath. The people do not appear to be remarkable for any peculiarity in strength, size, or complexion, or other personal quality. As is common in most places, the appearance of a man indicates in some measure the trade or occupation which he follows ; and, perhaps, a degree of huskiness in the voice may be viewed as characteristic of the females employed at spinning-mills. In the census of 1631, 9 males and 15 females were returned as insane or Jatnout ; 2 males and 3 females as blind ; and 1 male and 3 females as deaf and dumb. Langiiage, Habits, and Genial Character of the Pe^Ie. — The language generally spoken is the Forfarshire dialect of the Scot- tish tongue, with a peculiarity of accent distinct from that which is observable in the neighbouring towns of Dundee and Montrose. Amongst the genteeler classes, however, correct pronunciation is * On ttaii nibject, w tabular detkila vitl be found in the original ARBROATH. 85 much more attended to than it was thirty or forty years ago. The shibboleth, by which a native of Arbroath may be detected most readily, is his pronunciation of any word in which the letters o and i are found in conjunction, as in the words otV, spoils anoint^ pointy &C. It is impossible to exhibit on paper the sound which a na- tive of Arbroath gives to these words; but a stranger who has once heard it, will never forget it In regard to the general habits of the population, if it be asked whether the working-classes are cleanly or otherwise, the reply must be in the affirmative, when compared with the appearance of the same classes in some of the larger towns. And if the question be put, whether the people in general enjoy, in a reasonable de- gree, the comforts and advantages of society, it may be stated, that most of the old men and women belonging to the class of operatives are very poor, in consequence of the difficulty of finding employment in that particular department of work, viz. winding yarn, and spinning at the wheel, by which they were enabled, some years ago, to earn a living. Many also in the same class, who have not passed the vigour of mature age, are in very straitened circumstances, — especially weavers, whose wages are extremely low. This is particularly the case where there is a family of young children who have not arrived at an age to be able to do any thing for themselves. In a great many, however, of those cases where extreme poverty is observable, the people are the main cause of their own wretchedness. The head of the family frequents the tippling-house, where he spends no inconsiderable portion of his earnings ; and thus the wife and children are left in misery. In connection with this, and as accounting for much of the prevailing poverty, it may be noticed, that comparatively few young men or women in the operative class, while they remain unmarried, ever think of saving any part of their wages ; and that most of them enter into the married state without any previous provision for the probable expenses even of a humble family establishment. Nine-« tenths of the distress to be found in Arbroath may be traced to these sources. And if potatoes, with a sprinkling of salt, have in many instances been almost the only species of food attainable in families, it becomes a serious question, involving a high moral re- sponsibility, how far absence from the tippling-house, combined with previous habits of economy, might have elevated such fami- lies above the necessity of subsisting on such scanty fare. The evil, however, exists already ; and it is no easy matter to cure it. \ 86 FORFARSHIRE. especially as a great majority of the sufferers seem to think, or at least wish it to be understood, that they are not themselves blame^ able. All their evils, they conceive, are to be ascribed to the go- vernment of the country ; and they look, with a delusive hope, to a reformed parliament as a cure for their every sorrow ! At the same time, it is not to be conceived that these apparently condem- natory remarks are universally applicable. Amongst the operative class of society in Arbroath, we have found a numerous body of men and women whose habits are alike industrious and frugal, — who are exemplary in a discharge of the duties of morality and re- ligion, — and have evinced a commendable patience in the endur- ance of that adversity which may have fallen to their lot Not a little of the theological attainment. Christian practice, and evan- gelical zeal existing in the parish, is to be found in this rank of life. Several of the most enlightened and efficient of the Sabbath- school teachers in the place belong to the same class ; and the ex- ample they have given of a well-ordered conversation has been blessed to many around them. The state of society in Arbroath has, we believe, been affected considerably by the great number of bankruptcies which took place in the year 1826. In that memorable year several of the most in- dustrious and honest men in the town, who had realized what was to them an ample fortune, were ruined ; but, on the other hand, many of the failures were altogether inexcusable, — the bankrupts having scarcely ever had a penny which they could legally call their own. Not a few of this latter class have been driven, appa- rently for ever, from the circle in which they once affected to move, but into which they ought never to have been admitted. In conse- quence, both the commercial and the moral atmosphere of the town have been in some degree purified. These would-be-gentlemen have shrunk back to their original obscurity; or, if any of them are still occasionally heard of, it is only as the rallying point of local excitement amongst the revolutionary and ill-doing portion of the conununity, or as acknowledged superiors in the revelries of the pot-house. The cause of religion has gained not a little by the fall of the class of persons now adverted to. In the day of their glory, all that wore the aspect of genuine piety or Christian zeal was avowedly the object of their scorn ; and their vulgar slang was obtruded officiously wherever they had an opportunity of pre- senting themselves. But their unhallowed influence's now hap- pily at an end. 4 ARBROATH. ft? As illustrative of the general character of the population, it is worthy of notice, that, considering the limited extent of means, subscriptions for any public or benevolent purpose, which of late have been frequent, have, in almost every instance, met with dis- tinguished success. In proof, also, of an improved tone of senti- ment, it may be observed, that the smuggling of gin from the con- tinent, which, thirty or forty years ago, was in such repute as to enable smugglers from the coast of Kent to aspire after matrimo- nial alliances with respectable families in the town, would now sub- ject the man who was known to engage in traffic of this kind to pubUc scorn. One great source of demoralization in large towns has not yet found a place in Arbroath, viz. pawn-hroking establishments ; — al- though we regret to be under the necessity of stating, that in some of the low public houses, articles of wearing apparel, and even bed- clothes, are taken as a pledge for payment of the liquor consumed. From the foregoing remarks it will be seen, that^ as is the case in other communities of the same extent, there is a mixture of good and evil in the society of Arbroath; — whilst some of the particulars here noticed may serve to indicate where and how the application of moral means may be used with a view to the cure of existing evils. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — The whole of the land in the parish is in a state of cultivation ; and the only portion of it appa- rently which has never been under the plough, is a common of twenty-six acres, which is in pasture. The ordinary rotation of crops is, \8t^ grass ; 2cf, oats ; 3 made of the Bell-Rock Light-House, — 1\\\ ostablisluuont of int^timable l>enefit to the east coast of SiHMland in gtMioral. In pursuance of an act of Parliament pass- otl in 1800, o)H^rations with a \iow to this important erection wort^ conuuonotHl in 1807. The buildii^ was finished in Octo- Iwr 1810; and tho light exhibiteil for the first tinH» on the even- ing of Kobnmry 1% 181 K l>uriug the progress of the works, a floating light was kept up in a vessel moonnl at a short distance from the place. The light-house is erected on a rock in the oceaiH distant abinit twelve miles frvnn Arbroath, and thirtv from 4 ARBROATH. 93 St Abb's Head* When the tides are neap, the rock is scarcely uncovered at low water. But at spring tides, when the ebb is great- est, that part of the rock which is exposed to view at low water, measures about 427 feet in length by 230 feet in breadth ; and at this state of the tide, its average heidjfht above the surface of the sea may be stated at four feet. From the higher part of the rock a reef extends, in a south-western direction, about 1000 feet At high water the rock is wholly covered, to the depth of from ten to twelve feet. The light-house is of a circular form. The two first courses of the masonry are sunk into the rock ; and the stones of all the courses are of dove-tailed work. The ground-course is 42 feet in diameter ; and the building gradually diminishes, till, as it rises to the top of the parapet wall of the light-room, it is only 13 feet in diameter. The total height of the masonry is 100 feet ; but, including the light-room, the height is 115 feet. From the foundation, the edifice is solid to the height of 30 feet. Here is the entry, to which there is an ascent by means of a rope-ladder with wooden steps. At the door the walls are seven feet thick ; but gradually diminish, till, at the parapet wall of the light, the thickness is only one foot. The light-room, which is 15 feet in height by 12 in breadth, is of an octagonal form. The windows have cast-iron frames, with plates of polished glass a quarter of an inch thick. The light, which in clear weather is visible at sea at the distance of eighteen miles, is from oil, with argand burners placed in the focus of silver-plated reflectors, of the form of a pa- raboUc curve, and of the diameter of two feet The light revolves, turning on its axis once in six minutes, in the course of which, a bright and a dark-red light are alternately exhibited. Two large belL^ attached to the light-house are tolled in foggy weather, by means of the machinery which moves the lights. At Arbroath a suit of buildings has been erected, where each light-keeper has three apartments for the accommodation of his family. Three of the light-keepers are always at the light-house, where they remain six weeks at a time, after which they are a fortnight on shore with their families. Connected with the apartments for their accom- modation, a signal-tower has been erected, about fifty feet in height, to communicate with the keepers at the rock. The total expense of this magnificent and important erection was about L.60,000. Ecclesiastical State. — The parishes of Arbroath and St Vigeans were originally one ; and both names seem to have been applied indiscriminately. The disjunction appears to have taken place 94 FORFARSHIRE. soon after the Reformation. At first the parish was viewed as con- sisting only of the bui^h ; but afterwards, the grounds inclosed within the walls of the abbey garden, with the croft of Barn-green, were also considered as belonging to it The parish church is si- tuated near the centre of that part of the town which is on the east side of the Brothock. There are no means, apparently, of ascer- taining the date of its foundation. In the year 1764, it was con- siderably enlarged by removing the south wall eight feet back, and by adding to the accommodation in the aisle on the north side of the church. In each end, and in the aisle, there is a double tier of galleries. By recent measurement, it has been found to contain 1412 sittings, allowing eighteen inches to each. Some of the seats in the galleries are very inconvenient, being so near to the ceiling that it is difficult for a man of ordinary size to stand in them up- right. There are no free seats for the poor ; the whole being the property either of individuals, or of corporate bodies, who let, ge- nerally to the highest bidder, the sittings not required for their own immediate use. This has often proved a very serious evil, and has been justly complained of. Tlie minister of the parish has neither manse nor glebe. In the year 1701, the arable ground and grass within the abbey gar- den (which had been bestowed on the Bishop of Brechin during the reign of protestant episcopacy, and had reverted to the Crown at the Revolution,) were granted in lease-hold to Mr Fergusson, then minister of Aberbrothock, in aid of his stipend. But after his death, the magistrates petitioned for a lease of the said grounds, which was granted to them in 1737. And again, in 1753, they applied for, and obtained a grant of them in perpetuity for pay- ment of an annual feu-duty of L. 8 Sterling. All that was assigned to the minister in lieu of the abbot's house and garden was the yearly sum of L. 4, 8s. lid. Sterling, in name of house-rent. The first notice of the stipend of the minister of Arbroath, of which we are aware, is that appended to Dr M*Crie's Life of the celebrated Andrew Melville. His brother, James Melville, appears to have been minister of this parish, — probably its first incumbent In the year 1591, Thomas Ramsay, in Kirktown, bound himself " to pay to the richt worchipfull Mr James Melvill, minister of Aberbrothock, 4 bolls bier, wt. ane peck to the boll, and twa bolls aitmaill wt. the cheritie, guid and sufficient stuff" — the mail to be for the sd. Mr James awin acting, all guid and fyne as ony gentill man sail eat in the country adjacent about him ; — or fail- ARBROATH. 95 zeing delivery, to pay for every boll 4 lib.' of money." — (Register of Contracts of the Commissariot of St Andrews.) — " He was alive in March 1596, when he obtained decreet against John Richard- son, for the few farme of the kirk-lands of Aberbrothock, assigned to him by the Lords of Counsel, viz. 2 bolls wheat, 28 bolls bear, and 20 bolls aitmeal." The stipend of Arbroath is stated by Playfair in his Description of Scotland, to have amounted in 1755 to L. 71, 18s. OJd. In the Statistical Account of the parish, writ- ten in 1792, it is said to have consisted of 6 b. of wheat; 22 b., 2 f. 3 p. and 1 lip. of barley ; 23 b. 2 f. and 2 p. of meal ; and L. 54, 8s. lOd., including the rent for the church-yard grass, but not including L. 4, 3s. 4d. for communion elements, and L. 4, 8s. 1 Id. for house-rent It has since been augmented, and now consists of wheat) 6 b. ; meal, 69 b. 1 f. 3 p. and 1 1 lip. ; and barley, 68 b. 2 f. and 2 J lip. ; besides L. 72, 15s.; a teind of fish yielding L. 6 ; and L. 4, 8s. 1 Id. for house-rent* There is also a permanent assistant minister in the parish, who officiates as a colleague, «nd has the charge of one of the two dis« tricts into which the parish is divided. His stipend arises partly from the proceeds of an endowment of L. 790, the commencement of which was a bequest of L. 565 by a Convener Mill in 1776. The scanty income which this could afford was made up by the people, at first to L. 60, and afterwards to L. 60 or L. 70. A large portion of the emoluments of the session clerkship has since been added, and the sum given by the people greatly increased ; so that, during the last year of the incumbency of the writer of this, the proceeds amounted to L. 180. The patronage of the parish belonged formerly to the Earl of Panmure, but was forfeited to the Crown in 1715. The patronage of the office of assistant-minister of the parish is vested in the kirk- session. The population of the parish having greatly increased, a chapel of ease was erected in 1797, in the north-east comer of the abbey grounds, under the name of the Abbey Chapel. It accommodates 1268 persons, allowing eighteen inches to each sitter. As in the parish church, so here also the seats are private property. No parochial district is assigned to the minister, which we regard as a great evil. But he may dispense the ordinance of the Lord's supper, and baptize the children of those parishioners who are * The allowance for communion elements is L. 8, 6s. 8d. ; and the grass of the church-yard yields annually L. 4, lOs. 96 FORFARSHIRE. members of the Established church, provided they are sitters in the chapeL His stipend is L. 102, arising from a rate imposed on the seats or pews, according to their valuation at the time when the chapel was built. The patronage is vested in those of the proprietors of pews who are members of the Established church. But it is not necessary, in order to qualify a proprietor to vote, that he should be a sitter in the chapel. In fact, it cannot be said that the congregation have the choice of their pastor. By the constitution it is provided, that a majority of the committee of management must be members of the kirk-session of the parish. * Arbroath is the seat of a presbytery, consisting of eleven pa- rishes, within the bounds of the synod of Angus and Meams. From the presbytery, two ministers and a ruling elder are sent to the General Assembly of Church of Scotland. As might be expected, there are several dissenting meeting- houses, viz. one Episcopal, containing 381 sittings ; two belong- ing to the United Secession Synod, the first of which has accom- modation for 780, and the latter for 600 sitters ; one Relief, seat^ ed for 400 ; and one Congregational or Independent, with 400 sittings ; besides smaller places of meeting for Glassites, Bereans, and Baptists. The church accommodation for all classes of dis- senters may be stated at 2700 sittings ; while that within the pale of the Established church is 2680 sittings. In the suburbs in the parish of St Vigeans, there is a Wesleyan Methodist meeting- house, which will accommodate 300 ; and one belonging to the Original Secession, which is seated for 300. For the town and suburbs, the total amount of church acconunodation is, in the Establishoient, for 3910 sitters, — and, amongst other denomina- tions, for 3300. By adverting to the state of church accommoda- tion merely, the numerical strength of the dissenters might seem to be considerable. But it must be borne in mind, that most of the dissenting places of worship are miserably ill attended. It is difficult, in some cases, to ascertain exactly the amount of stipend paid to the ministers of those congregations that do not belong to the Established church. That of the Episcopal minister is es- timated, including the Easter offerings, at L. 150. The minister of the first Secession congregation has, we believe, L. 105, be- sides a house and garden/ The second Secession congregation * Another Chapel of Ease was erected in 1829, for the accommodation of that portion of the suburbs of Arbroath which belongs to the parish of St Vigeans. It affords room for 1290 sitters, allowing eighteen inches to each. ARBROATH. 97 profess to allow to their minister the same sum, without a house and garden. However it may be at present, a few years ago the members were unable, or unwilling, to raise that. sum; and the minister, who is since dead, having obtained a grant of any collec- tions which might be made at an evening service, was supported, in a great measure, by the voluntary contributions of members of the Established church, who attended that service and pitied his case. The Relief minister is understood to have L. 60 per an- num allowed to him ; whilst all that can be said of the emoluments of the Congregational or Independent minister is, that they must be miserably poor. Amongst the Glassites, Bereans, and Baptists, the ministerial service is gratuitously performed. From the fore- going statement it will be seen, that none of the livings, whether in or out of the Establishment, are great. And it may be noticed in passing, that, within the period of a very few years, three dis- senting ministers have been literally starved out of the town by their congregations. The following tables will serve to exhibit the classification of the inhabitants of the parish, according to their religious profes- sion, and are the result of actual enumeration. The first table, exhibiting the state of religioas profession in the year 1823, in- cludes not only the parish of Arbroath, but the suburbs also in St Vigeans parish. The other tables, which exhibit the state of religious profession in 1831, refer to the parish of Arbroath only. State of religious profession in 1823. Parish of Suburbs in Total. Arbroath. St Vigeans. Established Church, 5209 2806 8015 Episoopalians, 423 117 540 United Secession, 305 232 537 Original Secession, 24 107 131 MeUiodists, 221 61 282 Glassites, 99 35 134 Congr^^onalists, 57 42 99 Bereans, 17 15 32 Dalites, 5 5 10 Baptists, 1 5 6 Socinians, 2 2 Universalist, 1 1 No denomination. 113 73 186 Total, 6477 3496 9975 Summary, riz. Established Church, 5209 2806 8015 Dissenters, 1155 619 1774 No denomination. 113 73 186 Total, 6477 3498 9975 FORFAR. G 98 FORFARSHIRE. In the above table, those are entered as belonging to the Esta- blished church, who, whilst members of the same, were sitters at the time in other places of worship, in consequence of the want of church accommodation in the Establishment. In the subsequent tables, all are entered according to the church, chapel, or meet- ing-house, in which they professed to attend worship in ordinary. Some, in consequence, are entered as dissenters, who profess to be members of the Establishment. Eftabluhed Church, Arbroath Church, Arbroath Chapel) St Vigeans* Chapel, St Vigeans* Church, Arbirlot Church, No fixed place in the ^ Establishment, D'usenterg. 1st United Secession, 2d United Secession, Original Secession, Episcopalians, ReUef, Wesleyan Methodists, Congregationalists, Glassites, Bereans, Baptists, Papists, No denomination. Summary, viz. Established church. Dissenters, No denomination, S Persons profenitiff toattena wonhip. 2865 1481 690 76* • 8 ,296 250 257 13 4a3 2oa 142 84 69 U 9 13 41 5418 1484 41 r>^^ Persons above I wno are not *^^ Communicants. 1474 693 360 33 6 78 127 HI 7 214 74 48 24 27 8 3 3 2624 646 236 132 51 7 90 106 26 28 1 42 24 25 31 12 1 3 7 24 532 200 24 Families or por* tions of families amongst whom are no Commu* nicants. •-27 32 6 2 41 13 19 4 17 7 12 15 4 1 1 5 21 106 96 21 Number of persons in such families, or portions of families. 63 108 14 2 112 21 34 4 56 16 38 35 21 1 4 6 41 299 236 41 Total, - 6943 3290 756 227 576 It appears by the foregoing table, that, amongst every 1000 persons professing to attend worship, there are, in the Establish- ed church, 484 communicants; and among the dissenters, 435 communicants ; — that, in the EstabUshed church, the proportion of persons above twenty years of age who are not communicants is 98 in 1000 : and, amongst the dissenters, 134 in 1000; — and that in the Established church, .the proportion of the number of persons in families, and portions of families, amongst whom there is not a single communicant, is 55 in 1000 ; whilst, amongst the dissenters, the proportion is 157 in 1000. ARBROATH. 99 The following table exhibits the number of sittings in the Established church occupied as private property, or rented, by persons residing in the parish of Arbroath ; with the number of per- sons for whose accommodation they are thus occupied or rented ; and also the number of persons amongst whom, while professing to attend worship in the Establishment, there is not a single sit- ting occupied as property, or rented. Ftoish diiurch of Arbroath, Arbroath Chi4>el of Ease, St Vigeans Chapel of Ease, Parish church of St Vigeans, Pariah church of Arbiriot, No fixed place in the Esta- 1 blishment, i Total, Sittings occu- pied as proper- ty, or rented. Persons by whom they are thus oc- cupied, or rented. Persons by whom no sittings are ei- ther occupied as property, or rent- ed. 1388 2499 426 729 1297 184 442 650 40 24 56 20 — — 8 — 296 2583 4442 976 Divine service in the Established church is in general well at- tended. There is evening service in the parish church during five months in the year, commencing in the month of April. Such a service, — even if it were continued all the year round, — may be deemed almost necessary, as, in many families, circumstances, often unavoidable, occur, which prevent some of the inmates from getting out to church during the day. Yet it is to be feared that the lau- dable object for which " the exercise^** as it is familiarly termed, was originally established, has come to be abused. Many of those who attend might be better employed in instructing their children at home. Among the dissenters, with whom such services are common, the evening is accounted the grand diet. The best pre- pared discourse is reserved till then, and seats are provided for all who contribute a halfpenny to the collection, and thus assist in keeping up the money concerns of the meeting-house. Amidst the good which might result from evening services in Arbroath, if at- tended only by those for whom they are necessary, this evil has arisen, that they have tended to add to the number of those be- longing to the Established church who rent no sittings, but who might easily, in most cases, pay a moderate seat rent These have got into the way of trusting to free seats at the " evening exercise;" and their families are brought up in habits of carelessness in regard » » • ' * 100 FORFARSHIRE. to that which was deemed essential to the respectability of the men of a former generation. In the Established church the Lord's supper is dispensed twice a year. The average number of conununicants each^time may be stated at about 850 in the parish church, and 680 in the Abbey chapel of ease. Amongst the operative classes, it is very common for the husband to communicate at the one time, and the wife at the other; while, it is to^be feared, not a few, under the pretence of family cares, do not conununicate so often as once in the year. Societies for Religious Purposes. — At the head of these may be placed the Sabbath evening school society, which comprehends within the field of its operations the parishes of Arbroath and St Vigeans. It has been in active operation upwards of twenty years. Dissenters are admitted to teach in its schools, but only on the condition of declaring their adherence to the doctrinal standards of the Established church. A library of 1100 volumes is connected with the institution ; and, besides the ordinary religious books for children and young persons, contains several works of a valuable description. The receipts of the society during the year 1831 amounted to L.dl, Os. S^d. and the expenditure to L.dd, 14s. 4d. The number of male teachers at the same period was 49, and of female teachers 6 ; while the number of male scholars at- tending the schools was 437, and of female scholars 593, in all, 1030. The population of the district, included within the field of the society's operations, is 14,078 ; so that 1 of 13§ of the exist- ing population is receiving Sabbath school instruction. The re- ports of the society do not distinguish the number of scholars resid- ing respectively in the parishes of Arbroath and St Vigeans. But the enumeration of the inhabitants of the parish of Arbroath in 1831, exhibited, in regard to this, the following result: Age. Males. Females. Total. Age. Males. Females. Total. Under 6, - 12 11 23 13-20, - 11 29 40 e-10, - 82 104 186 20-30, - 7 7 10-15, - 84 124 208 Totel, - 189 275 464 A Bible society has existed in the parish since the year 1812. It has been auxiliary to the Edinburgh Bible Society since the British and Foreign Bible Society showed no sign of amendment in the matter of promoting the circulation of the Apocrypha. The average annual income of the institution during the years 1829 and 1830 was L. 38. A society for religious purposes in general, which, a few years ago, was in a flourishing condition, has since in a great ARBROATH. 101 measure fallen away. A home missionary society for the town and suburbs was established in 1830. The expenditure during the year ending March 1832 was L. 43, lOs. Od., leaving a balance against the society of L. 5, 13s. 4d. Deputations from most of the leading religious institutions in the united kingdom visit Arbroath in the course of the season. A few years ago, when it was presumed that a Catholic spirit pervaded the several bodies of Dissenters, the collections, made up chiefly of what was given by members of the Established church, were in general liberal. But they have fallen much off* since the Dissen- ters began to exhibit a spirit of sectarian virulence against the Es- tablishment In the parish church and chapel of ease, collections have been made from time to time in aid of the Scottish Mission- ary^, the Bible and the Gaelic school societies, as well as the Ge- neral Assembly's schools, and the General Assembly's mission to India. No record, apparently, has been kept of these collections, so that the amount cannot be exhibited. On the whole, however, the total amount subscribed and collected annually in the parish for religious purposes may be stated at about L. 130 or L. 140. Education. — Illustrative of the state of education, the following table exhibits the number of persons residing in the parish, who were returned in the census of 1831 as being then at school. Ages. 2- 6, 6-10, 10-15, 15-20, 20-30, Number at School. Males. Females. TotaL 131 107 238 263 236 499 147 135 282 13 23 36 2 3 5 Totol, -556 504 1060 The above includes those attending week-day schools of every description. On the same occasion, a return was made of the num- ber of persons above six years of age who could neither read nor write, of which the following is an abstract : Number who cannot read. Number who cannot write. Ages. Males. , Females. Total. Males. Females. TotaL 6-10, 2 7 9 170 239 409 10-15, - 1 1 29 98 127 1^-30, 3 3 6 17 208 225 30-50, - - 5 5 11 220 231 Above 50, 2 7 23 275 298 Total, . T 21 ^ 250 1040 1290 6-15, - "2 "i 10 199 337 536 Above 15, 5 13 18 51 703 754 102 FORFARSHIRE. In the foregoing table, are included, as unable to read or write, those only, who, by their own confession, or that of their parents or guardians, have never been taught even the first principles of reading or writing. But those are not included, whose inabiUty to read or write has been occasioned by bUndness, insanity, or any other physical defect. It may likewise be stated, that many of those who have left school, and who profess to be able to read or write, can do so very imperfectly. We have not, however, the means of distinguishing such from others who have so profited by their education as to enjoy the advantages arising from it. In the parish there are in all twenty-four schools ; four of which, connected with an establishment which has of late been termed the Arbroath Academy, are under one roof. These four are endowed, — and may be viewed as having come in place of what was originally the parochial school. The other schools in the parish are unendowed. One of them is supported by an associa- tion, termed the Arbroath Female Benevolent Society, for the in- struction, gratuitously, of poor children. The school-house was erected out of funds raised by subscription. An infant school was established in 1831, — and is supported partly by subscription, and partly by means of school fees. Besides these, there are two schools for the instruction of young ladies in the useful and ele- gant branches of female education. And, in addition to these, there are ten schools, intended chiefly for beginners, taught by elderly women in the more humble walks of life. The academy is under the superintendence of a rector, and three masters, to each of whom a separate department is assigned. The salary of the rector is L. 34, and L. 6, lOs. in name of house rent Including the emoluments derived from a mortification by the late town-clerk, Mr Colvill, for the education of five poor children, his income, apart from fees, may be estimated at about L. 50 per annum. The other masters have each a salary of L. 25 per annum. The fol- lowing is a list of the branches taught at the academy, with the fees annexed, as authorized by the magistrates and directors. I. Classical and Mathematical Department. Latin and Greek, with antiquities and ancient geography, per quarter, L. 8 6 French, - - - - - - - -0 10 6 French, with either Latin or Greek, or all three, - - - 13 6 Mathematics, - - - - - - -0 10 6 Navigation, - - - - - - - 10 6 Do. per courte, - - - - - - 1116 Do. with lunar observations, per course, - - - 2 2 ABBROATU. 103 Geography, ttrA eaant otsu. mcwtiw, • - I* 1 1 Dd. with history and eoostniccioQ of maps. 13 Elements of chraoolofy and Britofa hirtory. > 10 6 II. Commercial Dqpartmcnt. Writings plain and ornamental, per quarter, .... 040 Writing, arithmetie with the demonstrations, and geography, so fiv a^ rv>- lates to places upon maps, ..... Book-keeping in aD its forms, ..... III. English Department. English reading and recitation, per quarter, ... Do. dow and English grammar, including compositim) if required. Grammar by itself ...... • IV. General Schools. English, .-....--- English and writing, ...... Engliah, writing, and arithmetic, - ... The above, with English grammar or Latin, ... When the erection of the academy was contemplated, in ld!20, the ma^trates, with a view to obtain the assistance of the public, pro- posed that every person, subscribing L. 10, or upwards, to the in- tended building, should be a director for Ufe, and have a vote in the appointment of the masters, with the exception of the rector, the nomination of whom remains with the magistrates and the pa- rish minister as before. In the unendowed schools in the parish, taught by males, the average fees, per quarter, are, — English 4s.; do. with writing, 5s. ; do. do. with arithmetic, 6s. 6d. The fees at schools taught by elderly women, are, commonly, three half-pence per week. In the first established of the two schools in the parish, for the board and education of young ladies, the following are the terms on which the subjoined branches are taught, per quarter, — 6 6 10 6 5 6 S S 6 4 4 6 Music, three lessons a-weck, Ditto, five lessons a- week, Drawing, ... French, - . . Italian, . . _ Geography and history, Writing and arithmetic, Fancy work, Plain work. Ditto, wjtii Englisli and grammar, L. 1 5 2 1 1 10 1 10 6 10 a 6 10 G 6 10 G Young ladies are taught all the branches for L. 12 per annum. Board, exclusive of education, at this seminary, is L* 25 per annum, and washing L. 4 per annum. Literature. — It cannot, perhaps, be said that there is much tastes 104 FORFARSHIRE. in the town for the higher branches of literature. Few parents think of giving their children a classical education. Of late, how- ever, there is an improvement in this respect. — There is a public library, the property of which is vested in the shareholders. The purchase money is L. 5, besides half a guinea of annual subscrip- tion. The number of volumes in the library is upwards of 4000, of which one-fourth consists of novels and romances, and one- eighth of voyages and travels. It contains the leading monthly and quarterly reviews and magazines. But works of a theological nature have, in a great measure, been excluded. — A small library, consisting of theological and miscellaneous publications, is attach- ed to the Abbey Chapel of Ease, and another of a similar de- scription to the Chapel of Ease in the parish of St Vigeans. — A mechanics' library was instituted in 1824. It contains upwards of 500 volumes, of a theological as well as scientific description. With this it is intended to connect a mechanics' institution or school of arts; and a building for the purpose has just been erected. This comprises also a mechanics' reading-room, which is open every day of the week. Sabbath excepted. There is another public read- ing-room in the town, frequented by most of the merchants and higher class of shopkeepers ; which, we regret to remark, is kept open on the Lord's day. There is no newspaper or other perio- dical work published in the town. The provincial newspaper, which has the greatest circulation in the place, is the Montrose Review. Charitable and other Institutions, — There is neither alms-house, poor-house, hospital, dispensary, nor lunatic-asylum in the town. Still, however, there are several charitable institutions connected with the parish. The most ancient of these is Carmichael's mor- tification for the benefit of seven shipmasters' widows. The be- quest is dated 29th August 1733; and, at present, the net pro- ceeds arising from land-rent, feu-duties, and the interest of L. 600, amount to L. 130. By deed of mortification, 6th July 1811, the late John Colvill, Esq. town-clerk of Arbroath, left property for the following pur- poses connected with the parish, viz. L. 30 per annum to the pa- rochial schoolmaster of Arbroath, for the education of five poor children of that town, he furnishing each of them with pens, ink, paper, and books, to the value of L. 2 ; — ^also L. 10 yearly to the clergyman of the Scotch Episcopal chapel of Arbroath; and L. 10 yearly to the poor of Arbroath, under the direction of the minis- ARBROATH. 105 ter and Kirk-session ; and, in addition to this, a sum annually to twenty poor householders, which at present yields about L. 3, 10s. to each. A Destitute Sick Society was instituted in 1812. Several sums have been bequeathed to it since that period, which will have the effect of rendering it permanent ; but it depends for support chiefly on voluntary contribution. The sums distributed weekly to each patient, vary from one shilling to half-a-crown ; — the average may be stated at eighteen pence. The average annual expenditure is about L.7d. That during the year 1831, was L.75, 15s. There have been several Friendly Societies connected with the parish, some of which have failed in consequence of the inaccuracy of the calculations made at the outset. The Glovers* Friendly Society, which was instituted in 1802, has since been remodelled on approved principles. Another, styled the Arbroath and St Vigeans' Friendly Society, was established in 1830, on principles which bid fair to enable it to succeed. Savings Bank. — This useful institution was established in 1815. The following table exhibits the transactions for each year : From May 1815 to January 1817, L. January 1817 to 1818, 1818 to 1819, 1819 to 1820, 1820 to 1821, 1821 to 1822, 1622 to 1823, 1823 to 1824, 1824 to 1825, 1825 to 1826, 1826 to 1827, 1827 to 1828, 1828 to 1829, 1829 to 1830, 1830 to 1831, 1831 to 1832, 1832 to 1833, Of 648 depositors at last balance, there were 344 adult females, 267 adult males, and 37 children. The first class of depositors consists principally of maid-servants in the town and neighbour- hood, of unmarried women not in service, and of girls at spinning- mills. The second class are principally weavers, and other low- paid tradesmen. And here it may be stated as a fact worthy of notice, that very few of the deposits are by tradesmen who receive what may be termed very high wages. Among this class, likewise, Receipts. Disbursements. 684 6 6 L. 319 13 6 379 16 3 309 9 489 17 3 329 7 5 516 13 3 342 7 11 553 4 454 15 4 876 2 11 518 18 5 1181 2 7 790 15 3 1214 9 3 1104 17 7 1756 4 1294 17 4 2519 13 10 1775 8 1 1543 7 5 2596 7 5 1273 4 4 1127 4 4 1753 17 10 1457 1 10 2437 12 11 1849 13 5 2282 1 3 1999 15 8 2720 8 5 2298 8 4 2937 10 8 2614 6 7 In 1831. InlS32. 45 44 L. 135 10 7 L.128 1 141 137 L. 62 4 6 L. 73 18 106 FORFARSHIRE. there are accounts kept in the name of individuals for behoof of temporary societies, consisting of from 50 to 80 individuals, who pay each sixpence or a shilling weekly, which accumulates till a term, when it is uplifted for the purpose of paying rents, &c Since 1830, two societies have been formed in the village of Auchmithie, in the adjoining parish of St Vigeans, among the fishermen, each consisting of 25 members, who pay sixpence weekly, and deposit the amount in the savings bank. Thus, the ramifications of the institution are much farther spread than the number of depositors would at first sight appear to indicate. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The parish of Arbroath is not sub- jected to the curse of an assessment for the support of the poor. The following is the number of persons, in the years 1830, 1831, and 1832, receiving parochial aid, with the sums allotted for their maintenance. In 1830. Weekly pensioners, ... 48 Sum expended in supporting them, L. 141 16 6 L. 135 10 7 L. 128 1 3 Persons receiving occasional aid, . 147 Sum expended in relieving them, L. 74 14 The allowance to weekly pensioners on the poors' roll varies from 9d. to 4s. per week. The usual allowance may be stated at Is. per week. There is also expended annually by the kirk-session about L. 45 for coals to the poor. The annual cost of lunatics is from L. 30 to L. 40. The amount of funds for the support of the poor, under the management of the session, during the years 1830, 1831, and 1832, is as follows : In 1830. In 1831. In 1832. Aiising from collections at the parish church and chapel of ease, . L. 202 11 94 L. 194 11 3 L. 194 19 10^ Arising from mortifications and other sources, . . . . 162 1 2^ 150 16 1 121 13 94 Total, . . L.364 13 L.345 7 4 .L.316 13 8 • The total expenditure for the poor has been, in 1830, L. 375, 6s. 2d.; in 1831, L. 357, 7s. 2d. ; and, in 1832, L.866, 19s. 5d. It appears, from the above statement, that, during these years, the expenditure has exceeded the income. This has arisen, partly, from " untoward events^* in connection with the chapel of ease, where the collections have fallen off one-half of what they were some time ago. But the cause of this defalcation of revenue, will, it is hoped, be speedily removed, that the evils of a compulsory assessment may be avoided. Prisons. — There is a jail in the burgh of Arbroath. It is well ARBROATH. 107 secured, and every means observed for preserving the health, and promoting the comfort, of the prisoners. The jailor is under the superintendence of one of the bailies of the town by turns. The number of persons confined in the jail, during the year 1831, was 55, of whom 46 were imprisoned for debt, 6 for theft, and 3 for desertion of service. Fairs. — Of these there are two held in the parish. Whatever may have been the business transacted at them formerly, the whole is now confined to the sale chiefly of ready-made shoes, sweet- meats, &C. ; while, in the evening, the public houses are crowded with the idle and intemperate. Inns and Alehouses, — Of these there were, in 1832, within the royalty, 85 ; in the parish, without the royalty, 10 ; total within the parish 95. Thus there is in the parish, on an average, one public house, or place where spirituous liquors are sold, to every 18 fa- milies, or to every 40 individuals, of the population of both sexes, above 20 years. We have already said that a very large portion of the misery which afflicts the labouring classes may be traced to habits of intemperance. And one of the causes of Ihe prevalence of this vice may fairly be ascribed to the number of public houses which are licensed. liieL — The fuel made use of in the parish is coal, imported by^sea from the counties of Durham and Northumberland. Coal is likewise imported from the Firth of Forth, chiefly for the use of large manufacturing establishments, where steam is employed as the moving power. Miscellaneous Observations. Table showing wages, per week, of the following classes of artisan labour : — 1812. 1819. 182G. 1833. Ship-carpenters, L.i 2 L.0 15 LI L.0 14 House-carpenters, 14 15 12 Maacns, 12 8i 9 10 3 10 H Founders, I 1 1 1 1 I 1 Blacksmiths, 16 1 16 15 Tailors, 15 15 15 18 Curriers, 1 12 1 8 1 8 I 8 Tanners, • . 15 14 13 13 MDlwrights, 12 1 17 15 WeaTcrs, 16 12 12 12 6 Flax -dressers. 15 9 10 G 10 G Shoemaker^ lOs. to . 12 12 12 12 108 FORFARSHIRE. Table showing the prices of provisions and other necessaries of life, during the following years, for the working-classes : — 1812. 1819. 1826. ia33. Wheaten bread per quart, loaf, I..0 1 6 L.0 u L.0 10 L.O 8 Oatmeal per peck of 81b. Dutch, 1 4 1 4 1 Potatoes per stone of 161b. Dutch, 1 H *4 4 Barley per lb. avoirdupois. 2i 24 2 Beef do. 8 7 6 5 Mutton do. 8 7 6 54 Cheese do. 4 4 4 Butter do. 104 10 8 Beer per barrel of 18 gallons, 10 10 10 9 Soap per lb. 94 7 64 Candles per lb. e 11 7 6 Brown sugar per lb. 104 84 7 Tea per lb. 7 6 6 5 6 Salt per lb. . 2 Oj^g 4 Coals per imperial barrel. 1 34 1 34 1 2 1 1 Hats each, 7 6 6 6 5 6 Shoes for men per pair. 10 10 10 9 6 Shoes for women per pair, 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 Coarse calico per yard. 1 1 I 7 6 House-rent per year, 3 2 15 2 15 2 15 Since the preceding account was printed, the following state- ment has been obtained of the average gross amount of raw pro- duce yearly raised in the parish : — Grain of aU kinds, whether cultivated for food of man or the domestic ani- mals, .... . . Potatoes, turnips, &c cultivated in the fields for food, Hay, meadow or cultivated, - - . - Land in pasture, - - ' - Gardens and orchards, .... Annual thinning and periodical felling of woods. Fisheries, - . . . . L.14d0 302 10 340 820 850 1200 L.4142 10 December 1833. PARISH OF FARNELL. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. HENRY BREWSTER, MINISTER.* L — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries, Sfc. — The name of this parish was ancient- ly written Femell, afterwards Femwall or Famwall ; but now com- monly FarnelL Femell is said to be of Gaelic origin,— ^/mi signifying a den, and nell a swan ; from which it would appear that the name had been taken from a den near the church, which may once have been the abode of swans. The parish of Kinnaird was disjoined from Famell, and formed into a separate parish, about the year 1633; but was again an- nexed (all except a small part, which fell into the parish of Bre- chin,) in 1787. The parish is about three EngUsh miles long, by two broad, and consequently contains about six square miles. This, however, is exclusive of a large plantation or forest which is attached to it, of 1500 or 1600 acres, in a moor called Mon- teith-mont Muir: and the property in this parish holds, along with others, a right over an extensive undivided common, lying on the south, called Rossie muir. It is bounded on the east by the parish of Marytown ; on the south by Rossie muir ; on the west by the parishes of Kinnell and Brechin ; and on the north by the parish of Brechin and the river South Esk. Topographical Appearance and Soil. — The lands are generally flat, — rising towards the north and along the south side of the parish. Extending into the parishes of Marytown and Craig, there is a ridge of hills, but of no considerable height In these higher grounds, as well as in the western district, which has been more lately brought under culture, the soil is of an inferior quality, con- sisting chiefly of light black earth. The rest of the parish is of * This Account was drawn up by the late incumbenti the Rev. Alexander Doug- las. 110 FORFARSHIRE. a very rich clay and loamy soil, much resembling that in the Carse of Gowrie, between Perth and Dundee ; and is admirably adapted for carrying heavy crops of wheat. Hydrography, — The South Esk is the only river of any con- sequence connected with the parish. It takes its rise among the Grampian mountains, — runs close by the south side of the town of Brechin, and, after meandering beautifully through the strath, discharges itself into the basin formed by the reflux of the sea on the west side of Montrose. The part of it which separates Far- nell from Brechin is particularly beautiful. The banks are taste- fully wooded ; and there is a pleasure drive along them, which opens up at several places into views highly pleasing and pic- turesque. Near the church, also, there is a small rivulet, which, though inconsiderable in its ordinary state, swells in rainy seasons to an amazing height^ overflowing the banks, and laying the ad- joining fields under water. Means, however, have been recently taken for keeping it within its channel, and thus preventing the injury which it was apt to occasion. IL — Civil History. Land-OwMr. — The whole parish is the property of Sir James Carnegie, Baronet, of Southesk. A plan of his estates is in the course of being formed, every farm being surveyed and inserted at the letting of a new lease. That part which lies within this parish is already almost completed. Parochial Registers, — These extend back to the year 1699, are full and distinct, and apparently kept with great regularity. But those of Kinnaird, while it existed as a separate parish, have been altogether lost ; and no trace or history of them can be found. Antiquities, — On the north side of the church, and almost en- circled by the den from which the parish is supposed to take its name, stands an old castle, once the property and residence of the Ogilvies of Airly. It is kept in good repair, and part of it is al- lotted as a free dwelling to some infirm and indigent people. Modem Buildings, — Kinnaird Castle, the mansion of the South- esk family, is an elegant and spacious modern building. It is of a square form, with a square tower at each comer, and has a very imposing and princely appearance. The lofty trees around the extensive lawn in front, the flower garden, and other ornamental appendages, harmonize well with the building itself, and contribute not a little to its elegance and beauty. The whole pLice is on a FARNELL. Ill seale of magnificence hardly exceeded, if equalled, by any in this part of the country. The are two meal and two saw-mills in the parish, but no ma- Du&ctories or other milb. One of these saw-mills is occasionally employed (between twenty and thirty circular saws being fixed upon the same axis, at a Uttle distance from each other,) for cut- tmg into dust the jaw bones of whales to make manure for land, especially for raising turnip crops. III. — Population. In 1800 the population amounted to 57(5 1811 - - - 582 1821 . 8 . 599 1831 - - - 592 The population has of late been rather on the decrease, owing principally to the uniting of farms, by which the number of tenants and labourers and residing families is necessarily diminished. 1. Number of families in the parish, - - . - - - 128 of &milic8 chiefly engaged in agriculture, ... {18 in trade, manufactures, or handicraA, - 17 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, G of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 30 3L The average number of births yearly for the last seven years, . . 20 of deaths, .... - 8 of marriages, . - . . 4 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - > 230 upwards of 70, . ... 35 IV. — Industry. AffricuUure and Rural Economy, — There are about 3325 acres of cultivated land in the parish ; and 562 under wood, besides the forest of 1500 or 1600 acres, already alluded to. There are about 600 acres in undivided common, which fall to be divided among the parishes of Famell, Kinnell, Marytown, and Craig. About 50 of these, in the parish of Farnell, are supposed to be capable of being profitably improved. Waste ground is hardly to be seen in the parish. The wood is planted, and the management as to pruning, &c. is judicious. Scotch and larch firs seem to be the species of trees best adapted for the soil, and of these chiefly the plantations consist; but the different kinds of hard-wood might also be cultivated with success, as appears from some large old trees about the policies of Kinnaird, as well as from the thriving state of such as have boen 112 FORFARSHIRE. more recently planted. The average rent of arable land is about 40s. per acre. Rate of Wages. — The rate of wages for different kinds of farm- labourers and country artisans is, per day, from Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. in winter ; and from Is. 6d. to 2s. in summer. Husbandry. — Husbandry is in a highly advanced state; and much especially has been done in the way of draining. The leases are in all ordinary cases for nineteen years, and are considered favour- able to the tenant The farm-houses and other buildings and en- closures are in general excellent ; and every encouragement seems to be given to the industry and spirit for improvement which exists amongst the farmers. The ordinary kinds of farm stock are rear- ed with great success ; and of the prizes given for such by the For- farshire Agricultural Association, the produce of this parish has for many years carried off a distinguished share. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish may be as follows : Wheat, - 1763 boUa, L . 2557 I 6 Barley, - 2575 - 2877 13 Oats, . 3377 m 3180 2 Pease and beans, -1133 m 901 13 7 Turnips, 201 acres, - 1005 Potatoes, 1 194 acres. m 1195 New grass cut, 1874 acres. • 1125 New grass pasture, 4674 Acres, - I860 Natural pasture, 90, a L. 15 14,716 8 3 Fishery. — There is a salmon fishing in the river South Esk, which at present yields a rental of L. 250 a-year. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town^ Means of Communication. — The parish contains neither town nor village. The nearest post and market-town is Brechin, which is distant between three or four miles from the church. A turnpike road is at present in the course of being made between Montrose and Forfar, two miles of which lie in this parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is very conveniently situate,' not a house in the parish being more than two miles distant, and the greater part not above half that distance. It is a Gothic building of oblong form, with vaulted roof, and has a very tasteful appearance both within and without. It was built in the year 1806, 3 FARNELL. 113 ud is still in good repair. It is capable of accommodating above 330 sitters. The manse was built at different periods ; but all of it since the year 1794. It is in good repair. There are about seven acres of glebe, valued at L. 18 or L. 20 ar-year. The stipend, since 1811, when it was last augmented, has been 134 bolls. If pecks meal; 32 bolls potatoe-oats ; and 97 bolls, 3 firlots, 3| pecks barley ; besides the usual allowance of Lb 8, 6s. 8d. for conmiunion elements. There are twelve grown up persons in this parbh who attend worship at' Dissenting chapels in Brechin ; two families, both nu- merous, comprising about fourteen members in all, commonly re- siding in this parish, attend Episcopalian chapels. The rest of tlie populaticMi belongs to the Established church ; and divine service is in general well attended* The average number of communicants at the Established church for some years past lias been about 275. An annual church collection is made for religious purposes; which, after deducting the average collection for the poor, has hitherto amounted to L. 9 or L. 10 a-year. JEducation. — Besides the parish school, there are two schools taught by females for young children, and for the branches pecu- liar to girls. These are supported by school fees, and the teachers have each a salary and free house allowed by the family of South- esk; there are also two Sabbath schools, both numerously attended. The salary of the parochial teacher is L. 30 ; the amount of school fees received probably from L. 20 to L. 24 a-year. He has the legal accommodations. The school fees per quarter arc 2s. 6d. for reading; and 6d. additional, either for writing or arithmetic; and Is. for both. It is believed that all person'^ in the parisli above six years of age are able to read. Library, — There is a parish Ubrary, consisting of religious books; and a fair proportion of readers resorts to it. /Vwr.— The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is from fifteen to twenty ; and the average allowance to each is from three to six shillings per month ; though in some instances consider- ably more, according to the necessities of the case. Besides those on the regular roll, others get occasional help, and a share of the money which is distributed for purchasing coals. The several sums expended on the poor amount to L. 50 or L. 60 ; of this L. 25 is the interest of legacies * and other lying- • The legacies are as follows : — ^in 1762, one of COO mcrks, by Dean Carnegie, of FORFAR. li 114 FORFARSHIKE. • money, amounting in all to L. 500, for which the heritor gives five per cent ; the rest being made up by church collections and liberal donations received from time to time from the heritor and his lady. Besides those supported by the session-funds, there are several who have free houses, pensions, or other privileges ; so that, upon the whole, the condition of the poor in this parish is rather un- usually comfortable. There are still occasional and very decided manifestations of an unwillingness to receive parochial relief; but that spirit is here, as elsewhere, visibly on the decline. Inns. — In this parish there is neither an inn nor an alehouse, nor is the want of them regretted by any. Fuel. — Coals are the fuel chiefly in use. They are brought from Montrose, or from a harbour on the west side of the basin at Old Montrose, by which two miles of land-carriage are saved. Decayed wood and loppings of trees, which are sold publicly from time to time, and at a moderate rate, are found very serviceable in this respect. the family of Craigo, once minister of this parish; in 1815, one of L. 200 by David LyaU, Esq. of Gallery, intended chiefly to be distributed for purchasing coals ; and in 1830, one of L. 200 by Thomas Webster, Esq. Heathfield, for the general benefit of the poor. January 1833. PARISH OF MARYTOWN. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ANDREW FERGUSSON, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries^ Sfc. — The name of Marjtown was probably giTen to this parish in honour of the Virgin Mary, — a well on the border of the parish still retaining the name of Mary well. The parish is bounded by the river South Esk, and the basin (commonly called the back sands,) of Montrose on the north; by the parish of Craig on the east ; by the sea and the parish of Lunan on the south ; and by the parish of Farnell on the west. Its extent from east to west is about a mile and a-half ; and from north to south three miles. Topographical Appearances. — A small ridge of hills run through it from east to west, dividing it into two estates, — Old Montrose and Dysart. The sea coast, which forms the boundary- of the latter, consists of very high rocks, which afford shelter to a variety of sea fowL Marytovm Law^ which forms a part of that ridge, is a con- siderable eminence founded on a rock 300 or 400 feet above the level of the sea. It is evidently artificial, and probably in old times was either an alarm-post, as it commands a very extensive view, both of sea and land ; or a place where the great family of Mon- trose administered justice to its vassals. The top of it affords one of the most beautiful prospects in Scotland. To the north, close imder the eye, is the rich and fertile strath extending from Brechin to Montrose, marked with the windings of the river South Esk, and with gi number of elegant country seats; there is also a fine view of both these towns, with the basin and harbour of Montrose; and in the back ground are the Grampian mountains, and part of the adjoining county of Kincardine. To the east and south lies the well cultivated parish of Craig, adorned with several gentlemen's seats, and the prospect is terminated by an extensive view of the German Ocean. 116 FORFARSHIRE. Zoology. — In the river South Esk, which forms the northern boundary of the parish, there is abundance of salmon, grilse, sea- trout, &c In the month of May, a great quantity of beautiful clear small trout called smouts make their appearance. It is said that they are the salmon fry spawned the preceding autumn, and are then go- ing down from the river to the sea, where they arrive at maturity. A vast variety of aquatic birds frequent the basin or back sands, es- pecially in the winter season, viz. wild geese, ducks of various kinds, gulls, sea-magpies, curlews, herons, &c. The wild geese arrive in great flocks about the end of October, and generally remain till March. They frequent the fields on the low grounds throughout the day, where they feed upon the wheat stubble in autumn, and the green wheat in winter; and they return to the basin at night. The ducks, on the contrary, remain in the basin through the day; but when the night falls, they go to the land, and feed upon the stubble fields. In severe storms, swans are also to be seen in the basin ; but they do not remain long. There is a great abundance of partridge in the parish, and some quails and pheasants. Botany. — The only rare plant in the parish is the AtrojHi Bella- donna^ or deadly nightshade, which grows in the Den of Bonny- town. Its berries are of a dark-purple colour, and highly injuri- ous when taken internally. Their juice forms a beautiful ink of a bluish colour, which is durable on paper, if used when pressed from the berry ; but, if kept in a phial, it in a few days loses both strength and colour. II. — Civil History. The parish, as already mentioned, consists of two estates. Old Montrose and Dysart, which are separated half a mile from each other by a part of the parish of Craig intervening. Old Mon- trose was the property of the great family of Montrose till the reign of Charles II. when it came into the possession of the Earl of Middleton. Since that time it has passed through many hands, and is now the property of Sir James Carnegie of Southesk, Baronet. From its name, one would suppose that there had been a town here before the present town of Montrose was built ; but of that there is no tradition. Bonnytown, formerly a separate pro- perty, but now a part of the estate of Old Montrose, was once the residence of the family of Wood. The foundation of the castle they inhabited is still to be seen ; and of a moat or broad deep ditch by which it was surrounded and fortified, the vestige still re- MARYTOWN. 117 mains. The other estate, Dysart, belongs to David Camegj-, Esq. of Craigo. Neither of the heritors reside in the parish. Parochial Re^fisters. — The parochial register begins in 1738, and has been regularly kept since that time ; and part of a previ- ous register remains. IH. — Population. By Dr Wcbster^s report in 1755, the population was - 633 By last Statistical Account in 1793, - - 529 By the census in 1801, .... 596 in 1821 451 in 1831, .... 419 A decrease of 177 thus appears to have taken place in the last thirty years. It may be remarked, however, that, when the census was taken last year, there were twenty men employed at an em- bankment of the river South £sk, who will remain in this parish no longer than while employed at that work ; so that the real popu- lation of the parish at present is not more than 400, being a de- crease of 200, or one-third of the whole population, since the be- ginning of the present century. Tlie cause of that decrease is evi- dently the enlargement of the farms, and the consequent removal of the cottagers. Thirty years ago, the number of farmers resid- ing in the parish was fourteen. At present the whole land is occu- pied by seven, of whom only four reside in the parish. 1. The number of families in the parish, ... -92 of families engaged chiefly in agriculture, • . 45 in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 12 2. The number of unmarried men, bachelors and widowers, upwards of 50, - 14 of unmarried women, including widows^ upwards of 45, 19 3. Average number of births yearly for the last seven years, . . of burials, - - ... .J of marriages, - - . . ,S 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age is - . 149 upwards of 70, .... 7 Character and Habits of the People. — The ordinary food of the peasantry is oatmeal and milk. They enjoy in a reasonable de- gree the comforts and advantages of society, and appear to be con- tented with their situation and circumstances. Their general cha- racter may be termed moral and religious. They are regular in their attendance on public worship ; and they show a desire to read religious books given out from the parish library. 118 FORFARSHIRE. IV. — Industry. Agricvlture and Rural Economy. — Almost the whole of the land in the parish is cultivated, and in a high state of improvement. The number of acres in cultivation being ... 2080 In pasture, ...... 32 Under vood, . - - - . - 70 Capable of being cultivated with a profitable application of capital, - In undivided common, .... . The lands of Old Montrose consist either of a strong deep clay, conmionly called in Scotland carse landj admirably adapted for wheat, or of a very fine loam. The lands of Dysart lying higher, are of a lighter quality, but have been much improved of late years, and bear good crops. Husbandry. — The usual mode of cropping the clay land is a rotation of six parts, Ist, fallow, the land well-dunged, and, if ne- cessary, limed ; '2rf, wheat ; Sdy pease or beans ; 4^A, barley sown with grass seeds ; 5^A, grass ; 6^A, oats. There are two modes of cultivating the lighter lands. The first is in four parts, 1^^, turnips or potatoes, the soil well dunged ; 2rf, barley after the tur- nip, or wheat after the potatoes, sown with grass seeds ; Qd, grass ; and 4tth, oats. Another mode is in five parts, viz. fallow or pota- toes ; next wheat or barley, sown with grass seeds ; then two years in grass ; and lastly a crop of oats. The average return per acre is as follows, — ^wheat 10 bolls on clay land, and on the lighter soil, 7 or 8 bolls of 4 bushels; barley, 8 bolls; oats 8 bolls of 6 bushels; beans from 10 to 14 bolls, wheat measure, according to the season ; and pease from 6 to 10. The grain in general is of a fine quality. An acre of turnips, if sold upon the field, is reckoned worth L. 10 ; but if consumed upon the field, is not reckoned worth more than L. 5 or L. 6. The price of potatoes varies according to the season. The average price of an acre may be stated at L. 12 ; but it will often fetch L. 14 or L. 15. The ploughing is all carried on by horses. No oxen are used. A plough drawn by two horses is considered as sufficient for fifty acres. A considerable number of horses are reared upon the farms ; and it is acknowledged that the breed, both of horses and cattle, has of late years been much improved by associations form- ed by the farmers for that purpose in this and the neighbouring counties. A great many cattle are fed in this parish during the winter upon turnip and straw, and sold to the butchers. On one MAUYTOWN. 119 of the farms, eighty are at present feeding, which will weigh from forty to sixty stones each. The farms are usually let on leases of nineteen years. The farm-houses and offices are good and substantial. On some of the farms the fields are inclosed with stone dikes, which are evi- dently the best and most durable fences, but on the lower lands thorn hedges are still in use. Valued rent. Old Montrose, - . L.2d66 13 4 Scotch. Dysart, - - 033 6 8 L. 3000 Scotcli. Real rent. Old Montrose, - - L. 3780 Dysart, - - 1000 L.4780 Salmon fishing South £sk, - - - 100 Rental of the parish, - - L. 4880 RtTit of Land. — The best land let^ from L. 3 to L.3, 10s. per acre; the inferior land at L. 1, 10s. Wages of Labour. A ploughman, from L. 10 to L. 12 a-year ; I Scotch pint of sweet milk, and 1 boll Scotch, or 8 barrels English coals a-year ; with (S\ bolls meal. A maid-aerrant, L. 6, with diet. A day-labourer, Is. 4d. in winter, and Is. 8d. in summer, per day. Wrights, masons, &c. 2s. 6d. and Ss. Quarries. — Several quarries have been opened of late years, but they are all of the coarse stone called trap, or scurdy^ chiefly used for building dikes or making roads. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce raised in the parish may be as follows : Wheat, - 1778 bolls, at L. I 8 6 J being the liars average of last four years, L. 2535 10 0^ Barley, - 2870 do. 12 do. - 3228 15 Oats, - 3346 do. 18 2 do. - 3039 5 8 Pease and beans, 1034 do. 16 11 do. . 874 11 10 Turnip, - 182 acres, valued at L. 7t 10s. per acre, - 1365 Potatoes, - 62 do. 10 do. - - 620 Grass, - 141 acres cut green, and hay 200 to 250 stones per acre, } ^^..,^ - 284 value from 5d. to 8d, per stone, J - 284 acres pastured, value from 30s. to 35s. per acre, 461 10 Fallow - 160 acres. L. 14,508 7 6i It may be added, that thirty acres have of late been regained from the sea green of the basin at Old Montrose, and are embank- ed and now under crop. As much might also be recovered by 120 FOBFABSHIRE. embankment along the side of the basin, within the boundary of this parish. It may also be added, that the yearly value of the garden fruits raised in the parish is about L. 80 ; and of river fishing about L.100. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Toum. — This parish derives much advantage from its vicinity to the town of Montrose, where the farmer has always a ready market for everything he can raise, and where in return he can purchase whatever he needs for his farm or his family. Means of Communication. — Another great benefit is the open navigation from Montrose to Old Montrose, where eoals are im- ported for fuel to this and the adjoining parishes ; and likewise great quantities of lime for manure. Vessels of fifty or sixty tons burden can, at stream tides, land their cargoes at that harbour. Grain and potatoes are also sometimes shipped from the same place. This, and the parishes to the westward, will also derive another great benefit from a turnpike road just now making, and leading from Montrose to Forfar, which will open the communi- cation, and shorten the distance betwixt these towns about four miles. This road, passing the whole way through a very level country, will afibrd to the farmer easy access to the harbour of Montrose for the delivery of his grain, while it will also facilitate the carriage, from quarries situate to the westward, of slates and pavement, for which there is a great demand at that town and harbour. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands on the east comer of the parish ; nevertheless, it is very accessible to all the inhabit- ants, — none of the people being at a greater distance from it than two miles. It was built in 1791, and some years ago underwent a thorough repair ; and is now a very commodious house for public worship. It may accommodate nearly 300 people, or about 100 more than in the present state of the population can be supposed to attend. The number of families attending the Established church is 90. The manse is partly an old, and partly a new, building. The principal part of it was buih in 1789 ; the rest is of a much older date. The offices were all rebuilt five years ago, and, by the kindness of the heritors, on a larger scale than usual ; and they now afford very complete accommodation. The glebe measures MARYTOWN. 121 six acres of good land. The stipend is L. 85, 6s. lid. Sterling, including communion element money ; 1*24 bolls meal and barley, one-half each, and 1 boll 2 firlots oats, being the whole teinds of the parish, amounting at an average to L. 200. The Crown is patron. Education, — At the parochial school, the usual branches of edu- cation, besides Latin, are taught. The schoolmaster's salary is L.dO, and the other emoluments of his office may amount to L. 15. He is provided with a dwelling-house, which was lately re- paired at a considerable expense, and with a garden of nearly the extent required by law. All persons in the parish upwards of 6 years of age can read. Sunday schools were established in this parish many years ago. At present there are two, which are attended by sixty scholars. The best scholars at the week-day-school are always to be found among those who have attended a Sunday school. Libraries. — Parish libraries have become general, and have l>een productive of beneficial effects. There was one established here several years ago, which consists of more than 200 volumes, be- sides nearly 100 pamphlets. There are not a few of the people who shew a laudable desire for these books, and avail themselves of them. Poor. — The number on the poors' roll receiving parochial aid monthly, is 12; and the average sum allowed to each is 3s. 9d. ; but besides the monthly allowance, there are occasional dis- tributions to the most indigent. The poors' funds arise from the interest at five per cent, of a stock of L. 400, lodged with the principal heritor, and the collections at the church, amounting to L. 18 or L. 20 a-year, — together with a small perquisite for the use of the mortcloth. The demand upon the funds is in some re- spects greater than it was some years ago. In consequence of the introduction of machinery to a great extent in manufactories, fe- males in the country can find little or no employment, except when hired to the field for a short time in summer and harvest. Spinning, which formerly afforded them employment throughout the year, now brings no return, and the wheel has therefore been un- willingly laid aside. Nevertheless, the poor are not discontented ; they thankfully receive from the kirk-session the sum allotted to them, and they strictly apply it to their subsistence. There are no beggars belonging to this parish; but the parish is much infest- 122 FORFARSHIRE. ed with beggars and vagrants from other quarters, who consume not a little of what should go to the support of the parochial poor. Alehouses^ Sfc. — There is much reason to complain of the num- ber of houses licensed for selling spirits on the public roads, though there is only one house of that description in this parish : it is on the highway leading from Montrose to Arbroath. Fuel. — The fiiel chiefly used is coals, brought from the harbours of Montrose and Old Montrose, which cost 14d. or 15d. the English barrel, weighing nine stones odds. But coals are now sold at Montrose by the standard barrel of one and a-half hundred weight, which on trial has been found to contain from seven to fourteen pounds, according to the quality of the coal, more than the former heaped measure' of two imperial bushels. Wood arising from the thinning and pruning of the forest-trees in the neighbourhood can also be purchased at a reasonable rate. December 1833. PARISH OF DUN. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JOHN EADIE, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name J Boundaries^ S^c. — The name Dun seems to be taken from that of the proprietor, who was called Dun of that Ilk. It is said that a person named Erskine married the heiress. But at what time that happened, it is difficult to say ; as it is known only by fa- mily tradition. Others derive the name from the Gaelic Dunisj which signifies a hill or rising ground ; and it is, indeed, on a ground pretty much elevated above the river South Esk, or South Water; for Esk is said in Gaehc to signify water. Its greatest extent is about four miles in length, and as much in breadth ; but as it runs out into narrow points to the north-west and south-east, it does not contain more than twelve square miles. There is a small part separated from the rest of the parish by the basin or estuary at Montrose, called the Fort-hill, the land at the end of the bridge, and several houses which belong to Montrose quoad sacra. It is bounded on the west by the parish of Brechin ; on the east by that of Montrose ; on the north by the parishes of Strickathrow and Logic Pert ; and on the south by the parishes of Marytown and Kinnaird, which last is now united to Farnell. Topographical Appearance, — Its figure is very irregular. The low lands by the river side, and towards the basin, where the water is kept off by dikes, are clayey and very productive; along the side of the basin by Broomley, Gilrivie, and Tayocks, the land rises more abruptly, and the soil is light and sandy. Leaving the fields along the river and basin, and going*north, the land rises gradually into rich fields of black earth, on the farm of Balwyllo and Mains of Dun, — the grass parks about Dun and Langley Park, and the farm of Well-hill, having a southern exposure. In the middle are the farms of Balnillo, Leys of Dun Fordis, Tetherewe, Glenskenno, and Higham, which are good land. To the north of these the 124 FORFARSHIRE. land becomes flattened, wet, and miry, and, except the farm of North Mains and several small places, the greater part of it is under wood. On the north of Balnillo Wood is Dun's Dish, a lake covering about forty acres of land, collected from the adjoin- ing fields and springs for the use of mills. II. — Civil History. There is no history of the parish printed or in manuscript; nor are there any historical occurrences worthy of notice. Land-oumers, — The chief land-owners are the most noble Mar- quis of Ailsa ; James Cruickshank, Esq. of Langley Park ; David Camegy, Esq. of Craigo; and Patrick Cruickshank, Esq. of Glens- kenno. Parochial Registers. — The date of the earliest entry on the pa- rochial register of births and baptisms is the 10th July 1642; of marriages, the 14th September 1646. There are three vo- lumes of these registers, but they do not appear to have been very regularly kept, and the first is scarcely legible. There is also a register of burials in the parish, begun in the year 1777, and continued to the year 1793; but from that time it has been very irregularly kept. The records of the kirk-session begin on the 19th July 1702, and consist of four volumes. III. — Population. In 1801, the population amounted to 651 1811, - - 680 1821, - - 605 And in 1831, - - 514 The recent decrease is said to be owing to a number of cottar- houses, and several other houses that had a few acres of land attach- ed to them, having been taken down. There is no town or village in the parish. 1. Number of families in the parish, ^ .... 97 of fiimilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 88 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 9 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 5 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 27 3. The average number of births yearly for the last seven years, - 11 of marriages, ----- 3^ 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - - 169 upwards of 70, - - - 10 There is only one family of independent fortune resident at DUN. 125 present ; but there are in the parish four proprietors of land up- wards of L. 50 in yearly value. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — There are about 2600 stand- ard imperial acres under cultivation in the parish; besides 230 acres around the houses of Dun and Langley Park, whieli have been a number of years in grass, and rent from 30s. to 80s. per acre. There are about 550 acres under wood, and about 100 acres of uncultivated moor. There is also a large track of ground covered by the tides that might be embanked ; but it is doubtful whether it would yield a fair return. Hutbandry, — Several different rotations are practised, accord- ing to the quality of the soil. Upon the wet strong low-lying land, a six-shift rotation, namely, 1«^, fallow ; 2^, wheat ; 3^/, pease or beans; 4^A, barley sown down with grass seeds; 5M, grass generally cut for hay ; 6^, oats. Upon a drier class of strong land, likewise a six-shift, 1^^, potatoes, or drilled pease or beans ; 2 V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated within the Mar- quis of Ailsa's enclosures, is very convenient for the greater part of the population, and about two or three miles from the extremi- ties of the parish. It is said to have been a chapel belonging to the family of Dun, the mansion-house of the family having been built very near to the churchyard. The roof and ceil- ing is so much decayed, that it is proposed at present to have the church renewed.* It affords accommodation to nearly 400 persons. There are no free sittings; but there are several pews, belonging to the session, let yearly for a very small sum. It is not known when the oldest part of the manse was built ; but an addition of two rooms was made to it about fourteen years ago. Some repairs in the manse and offices, and also some addi- tions to the offices, were made in 1828. The extent of the glebe is betwixt five and six acres of very good land, which may be valued at L. 20 a-year. The amount of stipend is L. 150 yearly, including L. 33, 8s. 5d. from Government. There are about 100 families, and 260 persons, attending the Established * A new church has been built since the above was written. DUN. 127 diurch. There are 8 persons attending the nearest chapels of Dissenters and Seceders ; 6 attending the Episcopalian chapel m Montrose. Divine service at the Established church is generally veil attended. The average number of communicants at the Esta- blished church is 225. ____ • Educatioiu — The total number of schools in the parish is three, — one parochial and two unendowed. The salarj- of the parochial schoolmaster is the maximum, and the school-fees amount to about L. 12 yearly. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accom- modation. The general expense of education is ds. per quarter for reading ; 4s. for reading and writing ; and 5s. for reading, wTit- ing, and arithmetic. There are no persons above six years of age who cannot either read or write. The people in general are very much alive to the benefits of education, and arc very anxious to have their children well instructed in all the useful branches. UJbrary. — There is a small parochial library, mostly of religious books, of which the people are verj- fond. Savinffs Bank. — There is a savings bank in the parish, which was instituted on the 8th June 1818. The average amount depo- sited yearly, from 1818 to 1830, is L. 50, 14s. 4|d., and withdrawn, L.d8) Is. 5|d. The investments are generally made by the la- bouring class of people. JPoor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is eleven, and the average sum jillotted to each, yearly, is nearly L. 3. There are also various sums given to persons who are occasionally in difficulty, before they are placed regularly upon the poors' roll. The heritors, according to their valued rent, pay for the keeping of a lunatic, belonging to the parish, in the Montrose asylum, at the rate of L. 12 ; and for another per- son at the rate of L. 10 yearly. The average amount from collec- tions at the church is L. 26 ; interest of money, L. 1 1 ; seat-rents, mortcloth, &c. L. 2. There is little disposition among the poor to refrain from seeking parochial relief, and they do not consider it de- grading. Fairs. — Two fairs used to be held in the parish on Dun's Muir, — the first in May, on the Tuesday before the first Wednesday, old style ; the second in June, third Wednesday. But last season they were removed to a piece of waste ground about a mile to the north, on the side of the Strickathrow road on the estate of Dun, and in the parish of Logic Pert. 128 FORFARSHIRE. Innsj Sfc. — There is on the turnpike road a toll-house and an alehouse, where spirituous liquors are sold ; they are frequented chiefly by the people travelling the turnpike road, but very seldom by the people of this parish. Fuel. — English coal, procured at the shore in Montrose, from Is. to Is. dd. per barrel, is the fuel generally used. January 1833. PARISH OF BRECHIN. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JAMES BURNS, A.M.,! TurvTCTTTPQ* THE REV. GEORGE WHITSON, | MAJ>'AoiiJ.K&. L — Topography and Natural History. Name, Batmdaries^ 4*^.— The name Brechin is derived from a Gaelic term, signifying a brae ; and is descriptive of the sloping bank beside the river South £sk, on which the town is situated. The parish extends in length from east to west about seven English miles, and in breadth from north to south about six. It consists of 24| square miles. It b bounded by the parish of Dun on the east ; by Carriston on the west ; by Strickathrow and M enmuir on the north; and by Famell on the south; while on the south-west it marches with Aberlemno. It is not of a very regular shape^ al- though no part of it extends much above three miles in each di- rection from the burgh. The Grampian mountains are seen at no great distance to the north ; but there is no eminence which can be called a mountain within the parish, excepting Burghill, or Burkle, (as it is usually pronounced,) which lies on the south side of the town. The greater part of the parish is level, or diversi- fied by gently sloping grounds. The climate is justly reckoned temperate and salubrious. From the extensive draining of wet lands of late years, we hear of no complaints of ague, which were common in former times. No pre- valent distemper can be said to exist in the district Meteorology. — On this head the writer presents the following meteorological table, drawn up by Mr George Henderson, from a journal kept about the centre of the parish, 190 feet above the level of the sea, during the years 1830 and 1831. * This account has b«en drawn up by the Ret. James Burns. FORFAR. I FORFARSHIRE. ISA). N.|S.IE| W. ■al 't E i! 1 1| 1 li ^i h j_ ill 1 Jnn. 3,4 11 ■)> 32 7 nch 211, 24 iOlh 28.34 30.4( 1)1 39.50 2 lit 1-VI.. 4 G IS 12 42 i2 12th 37. 35 eth 211.63 3 17 £4 7* 30ih 43 ao 2d 39 25 29-93 JSlh 2B.Bi 24tli M.y, S 6 1! II Id 67 GO 23d 49 40 Blh 29 W 2986 I4ih 29.02 28ih Ju/e, IS 3 IS 67 ;« Oih G9 47 l»(h 2».05 20.8.' inth 29.02 2«th July. 3 G 15 84 28th 50 l2ll. SOJiU 30.12 mb S9.06 Blh flug. IB B m Sfl l>8 3d 53 bO 2&ih 29.53 2908 ISlh 29.10 I2lh Si'jJt. 6 12 19 a? S6 SI Id IOtl> 3S.3fl 29.84 28.80 iOih Ocl. 7 H ao 9 fiS Olh 46 32 18th 29.113 30.S( lOlh 29.11) 2Blh Not. 6 14 .s 1, 14 46t 56 34 40 30 i4th 29.41 30. 1( 28.70 lOth Dec. 13 7 8 3 16 3fl 16 21m 32i 16 ^6th 29.2U 30.05 I5di 2B.7G 22d 7!) fiB 70 14r. IB3 IF IM 44 15 2D.49 30 40 28.72 1831? iHT ■^ "; 14 11 liii 46 3th 33 z M^ iOAC 30.00 6lh 20.00 ~ Feb. 2 lb 1^ 42 W I2tli 3« 2b Gth 2a25 29.87 22d 28,65 7th Mw. 7 2« 10 4J) l>3 2Slh 39 i4 29.32 30.15 SlM 2a42 I2lh Apr. 10 8 fl N JU 7« Ifilh 4.1 a vteh 29.34 30.16 Ut 28.80 8th M«T, * IS eo 74 lltli 43 ifl Gth 29.44 2ft 72 23d 28 90 Itt jJl ft 9 (14 76 I3tb 6S Ml 5(h 29 34 29.63 2a93 llth Tulj. 4 17 11 70 RO 3Ut 69 ^5 I4 28.48 7th Dec. e _[ 32 " 4a 'lU fllh %6 28 lOih 29.0fl 29 941 J8th 2ft3J 7lh 49 75 63 I7« 37 54 ii IT 34 29.:mi 30.11 28.24 Hydrography. — The only streani deserving llie name of a river is the South Esk, which intersects the whole of the parish from west to east, — taking its rise in the Grampians above Cortachie, and falling into the sea at the basin of Montrose. The general breadth is such that it is crossed by bridges of one, two, or three arches. Geology and Mineralogy. — The northern part of the parish is composed of the old red sandstone, the strata of which range from east to west. Its dip rs to the north ; its inclination about thirty-five degrees. It incloses within it two beds of limestone, of various dimensions. The fore bed is from eighteen inches to two feet in thickness. The back bed is composed of loose boulders, mixed with thin layers of argillaceous sandstone, having the same dip as the above. There are no animal or vegetable remains in the beds or the strata. There are found in the limestone veins of calcareous spar, which sometimes inclose crystals of sulphate of barytet. There are three lime- works in operation. The site of the town is partly on clay, and partly on alluvial BRECHIN. 131 sandy reposing on a gray sandstone. In the northern part of the parish there are several quarries in o))eration, wliich exiiibit a fine section of the gray sandstone. This rock is well ad£4)ted for building, being susceptible of a high polish, and bein^r of great du- rability, as the tower and spire attached to the cathedral (which have stood for 800 years without decomposition or decay,) abundantly prove. The position of the sandstone is nearly horizontal. No metals have been discovered in any part of the parish, so far as is known. Botany, — There are no native plants peculiar to this parish. The Linnea borealis^ which is very rare, is found in the woods of Kinnaird, lying partly in this and the neighbouring parish of Far- nelL The insects which are most injurious to fruit trees are the while American bugs imported from the London nurseries about thirty years ago, and now very prevalent in gardens around the town. Thej attack only apples. The various means for destroying them are washing with the refuse of gas-works, with black soap, whale oil, and with scalding-water, especially if potatoes have been boiled with it IL — Civil History. A map of the town and suburbs was published by Mr John Wood a few years ago, which seems sufficiently accurate and de- scriptive. Brechin Castle was, before the invention of artillery, a place of considerable strength, being romantipally situated on the top of a precipice. A ravine of considerable depth separates it on the east and north from the town; while the South Esk, here formed into a fine sheet of water, washes its southern base. Access to the for- tress was attained only through the gate in a wall, which was built to defend it on the western quarter. The brave Sir Tliomas Maule, proprietor of this stronghold, in the time of King Edward III. defied the forces of that prince sent to reduce it. Nor did it fall until a stone thrown by an engine slew the valiant defender, when the castle surrendered at discretion to the terms of the English inva- der. The proprietors of this place of renown, and of the extensive estates connected with it, have since that period boasted of the name of Maule. They were afterwards elevated to the peerage by .the title of Earls of Panmure. They lost this title in conse- quence of the Rebellion in 1715; but his present Majesty was pleased at his coronation to grant the title of Baron of Panmure 132 FORFARSHIRE. to the present proprietor, who had for many years considered it no small honour to be descended from his distinguished progenitor above alluded to. Eminent Persons. — Mr John Willison was settled here as ono of the ministers in times of Episcopacy, although a strict Presby- terian. He was translated to Dundee at the beginning of last century. He is the well-known author of various plain and prac- tical works on theology, particularly of the Afflicted Man's Com- panion, and of two treatises on the Lord's Supper, — not to mention the Mother's Catechism. Dr James Fordyce, the eloquent writer of Sermons to Young Women, of Addresses to Young Men, &c was ordained to the second charge of this parish about the time of the Rebellion in 1745. He continued in it for eight years, when he removed to Alloa, and soon afterwards to London. No less renowned than either of these, but of an earlier date, was Mr William Guthrie, proprietor of Pitforthy, in the neighbour- hood of this town, minister of Fenwick, in Ayrshire, author of a Scriptural and Practical Treatise on the way of obtaining and evidencing an Interest in Christ He died in JBrechin, and his re- mains are interred in the cathedral under the seat belonging to the ground of Pitforthy. He had been deprived of his charge at Fen- wick, to the great grief of his people, because of his resistance to Episcopacy. Of illustrious men still alive, it is sufficient to mention the names of Dr John Gillies, historiographer to his Majesty for Scotland, and of his brother, the Honourable Adam Gillies, one of the Sena- tors of the College of Justice. * Heritors. — The chief heritors or land-owners, are Sir James Carnegie of Southesk, Bart., the Honourable Lord Panmure, the Earl of Fife, Mr Chalmers of Auldbar, Mr Hunter of Esk- mount, Mr Cruikshank of Keithock, and Mr Speid of Ardovie. These three last named have mansion-houses within this parish, — in general very commodious and elegant. Parochial Registers. — The acts or minutes of session commence in the year 1615, and are contmued from thence until 1700, at which period there is a break for two or three years. After this they are continued to May 1724, when another blank occurs, till 1786; * Patrick de -Senebay, George Shorewood) John Sinclair, William Maitland, and Norman Sievrigfat) were also eminent persons connected with this parish. See Sir John Sinclair's Statistical Account. BRECHIN. 133 mfter which they are complete to the present date. In the register <»f baptisms, the earUest entry is in 1612; from which time the re- pster is continued without any interruption to 1725, when it be- comes imperfect, and consists of occasional entries made on de- tached leaves, or folded sheets, till the year 1753; from which time it is continued to the present. The register of marriages, or rather of proclamations, conunences in 1700, and continues for a few yearsj but downwards to 1784 it is very defective. There are some proclamations recorded betwixt 1749 and 1781 ; but for many years prior to 1749 there is no record existing. JbUiquiiiet. — There are in the upper part of th& town ruins of the ancient chapel of Maison Dieu, an alm's-house connected with the cathedral, now covered with a roof, and used for the humble purpose of a stable. The round-tower adjoining the cathedral, complete and well built, probably of Pictish origin, has been often and long admired, while the purposes for which it has been erect- ed have been matter of various conjecture. Two bells, formerly placed within it, have been of late years transferred to the square tower beside it, which contains another large bell and a good clock. The west end of the cathedral, repaired upwards of twenty years ago, and forming a handsome parish church, was originally built by King David L in the eleventh century. It has two rows of pil- lars, with Gothic arches, and a large and elegant window on the west. The eastern part or choir, in which some special rites of the church of Rome were performed, was thrown down at the time of the Reformation. There is a burial place ^t the eastern extremity of the parisli, which receives the name of Magdalene's Chapel, although no traces of a place of worship now remain. Modem Buildings. — Towards the north end of the town, near the old chapel in Maison Dieu Wynd, there is a chapel for the use of the Scottish Episcopalians, built about twenty years ago, and enlarged and beautified last year, particularly on the west end, which is neatly finished iivith two minarets on each side of the cross in the centre. There are four Presbyterian meeting-houses, whicli are plain, commodious edifices ; — one of them was till lately used as an English Episcopal chapel. The town-house, in the middle of the town, near the cross or market-place, was almost wholly rebuilt about thirty years ago, and is now a respectable edifice. It con- tains an excellent guild-hall on the second floor, with two smaller rooms for the meeting of council, and a court-room and prison be- low. The public school-rooms, three in number, built by sub- 134 FORPARSHIR^. scription several years ago, are a great ornament to the west end of the town, being surrounded by a neat belfry and dial-plate. There are threshing and spinning-mills, named East and Meikle Mill, ad- joining the town ; and one at Arrat's Mill, towards the eastern ex- tremity of the parish. III. — Population. At the date of last Statistical Account in 1790-91, the population was - 5000 By the census in 1811, ..... 5559 1821, ..... 5906 1831, ..... 6508 Of which number about 5000 reside in the burgh, and the remainder in the country. 1. Number of fiimilies in the parish, .... 1673 of fiunilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 300 chiefly employed in trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, 1030 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 144 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 469 3. The arerage number of births yearly, for the last 7 years, (conjectural, — as the dissenters do not register the baptisms of their children,) - 150 ofdeaths, ..... 100 of marriages, .... 55 4. The number of houses inhabited, ..... 900 uninhabited, .... 32 5. The number of fatuous persons, ..... 24 blind, ... - - 10 deaf and dumb, - - . . 3 The only nobleman who resides in this parish is Lord Panmure at Brechin Castle. Few of the other chief heritors have residences in the parish. All of them are proprietors of land of L. 50 a-year and upwards, excepting the feuars at Little Brechin, who possess and occupy a few acres each taken from what was lately the com- mon moor. Character and Habits oftlie People. — Not much can be said in favour of the habits of the ordinary class of inhabitants, as to clean- liness in their persons and habitations. There are, however, many honourable exceptions. The usual food of the peasantry is milk and meal, and potatoes. The poorer people in the town use as much of the same articles as they can procure. Now and then a little butcher-meat is added. They enjoy in a reasonable degree the comforts and advantages of society, and seem in general contented with their situation. It is but seldom that insubordination or other effects of discontent ap- pear among them. Some of them are very shrewd and intelligent. Many of them are fond of reading, especially history and practical BllECIIlN. 135 dieology. Their moral and religious character is fully equal to tliat of their neighbours in the adjacent towns and villages ; and though there are instances of intemperance and dishonesty, it will bear a comparison with that of most towns in Scotland. In former times it was remarked, that the Sabbath was better observ- ed here than in some other places of equal or greater extent. But the increase of inhabitants has been attended with no improvement in the manner of keeping that sacred day. Poaching in the river is sometimes practised. Smuggling is almost unheard of since the l^al distilleries were established. IV. — Industry. AgTricuUwre and Rural Economy. Land cultiTatedy or occasionally in tillage, ... f>S0t2 Acres. never cultivated, ..... 2770 capable of being cultivated with a profitublu application of capitiU, in undivided conunon, .... under plantation, ..... 3268 m natural woods, ..... o Total number of imperial acres in the parish, 15840 The kinds of trees generally planted on moors are Scotch firs, with sometimes a mixture of larch and spruce, sometimes larch alone. In belts of planting, and in gentlemen's policies, and where there is depth of soil, there is no more soft wood planted than is necessary for shelter to the hard-wood of different kinds. The soft wood is cut out after a few years. Rent of Land. — The average rent of land may be about L. 1, 7s. per imperial acre. Land in grass is generally let for the season at from 20s. to 35s. per imperial acre. The real rent of the parish is about L. 13,000. Rate of Wages. — Labourers for draining and other farm work, receive about 9s. per week for the year ; women for out-of-door work, 4s. The rate of wages for masons runs from 12s. to 14s. per week, according to the season of the year; that of carpenters is 2s. per day. Breeds of Live Stock. — The breed of sheep is in general the black-faced; but few of this description of animals are kept. The breed of cattle is mostly that of the county of Angus ; but of late years there is a mixture of the short-horned or Tees-water breed, and a few Ayrshire cows. Hnsbandri/. — The management of cattle is well understood and 136 FORFARSHIRE. attended to ; so also is draining of land. No irrigation, and but little embankment, is required. The length of leases is generally nineteen years,— leases of this duration being considered as more favourable than those for a shorter period. The state of farm-build-* ings and enclosures is good, the buildings being usually of stone and lime, and slated. Improvements have been general throughout the parish during the last twenty or thirty years. Defective leases and insufficient accommodation are unknown. From the fifth to the sixth part of the farms is sown with turnips, or planted with pota- toes, unless when they are adapted for wheat, in which case a pro* portion is fallowed. Very few beet or cabbages are cultivated. No meadow hay is raised in the parish. Of flax there are only a few acres for domestic purposes. Land in pasture is let at a certain rate per head of cattle, or by the acre, — from 20s. to 25s. per im- perial acre, and sometimes as high as 45s. and even 60s., according to the soil and situation. Agricultural Society. — The Eastern Forfarshire Farming Asso- ciation was instituted here in 1814, under the patronage of the Honourable William Maule, now Lord Panmure, who is its per- petual president The Association holds two shows annually on the Trinity Muir, in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, the one in spring, the other in autunm, at which premiums are award- ed for cattle of different ages and breeds ; for fat cattle of the best synmietry and weight ; for brood mares and breeding cows ; for stallions and young horses of various ages, and occasionally for im- proved agricultural implements. The average number of members who pay one guinea or upwards yearly to the funds is about 160. The institution has all along continued to prosper under the aus- pices of its munificent patron and president, and has been very be- neficial to the interests of agriculture in the eastern part of For- farshire. Manufactures. — The branches of manufacture are heckling, spinning, weaving, and bleaching. There may be employed in heckling about 30 men and women; in spinning 200; in weaving from 1000 to 1500 ; in bleaching from 40 to 50. The hours of la- bour are twelve each day for those employed in the spinning and bleaching works. The wages paid them may be considered as a pretty fair remuneration. Those employed in the above branches are in general healthy. Some of the young people attending the mill receive week-day and Sabbath evening instruction at school : but education is on the wliole not much attended to; and instances BRECHIN. 137 of immorality now and then occur. Besides the above branches of manufiuturey two distilleries for spirits from malt have been for some time erected in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, and are in full operation. Quarries^ — There are three lime-works at present in full opera- tion, and several freestone quarries of excellent quality. Nuneries. — There are three nurseries in the neighbourhood of the town, consisting of about twenty-five imperial acres, and sup- plying a large district with forest trees of all kinds, as also fruit trees, ornamental shrubs, and bushes, &c All of these are in full employment, and kept in the best order. The principal green crop is turnips, but a considerable extent of land is planted with potatoes for domestic purposes, and feeding cattle ; very few potatoes are raised for exportation. Wheat is generally sown after the potatoe crop. Produce. — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish may be as follows. Ofgrain of aU kinds, &0. .... L. 37,713 Of potatoes, &c ...... 10,500 Of haj, whether meadow or cultivated, ... 3^200 Of crops cultiyated for the arts, as flax, - - almost none. Ofknd in pasture, &c ..... 3^15 Of gardens and orchards, .... 800 Of the annual thinning, &c. of woods, &c - 300 Of fisheries, &c. in South £sk, . - ... 50 . . (stone, 800 ^^^^' {lime, 1,200 Of miscellaneous produce, &c. Nurseries, • - 1,000 L. 59,678 V. — Parochial Economy, Market'Toum. — Brechin is the only market-town in this district, and serves for several miles of the country adjacent The trade here is mostly that of weavers, besides the usual handicrafts. There is no great establishment of police, — there being only three town- officers, and three men for sweeping the streets; besides a body of constables, consisting of the younger part of the inhabitants. Means of Communication, — There is a regular daily post The postman arrives on foot from Montrose about eight in the morn- ing, and departs at half-past three in the afternoon; and there is a ninnpr to Forfar every lawful day. There are about seven miles of turnpike road, — one-half towards Forfar, the other towards Aberdeen. Nearly the half of the turnpike of eight miles to Mon- 12S FORFARSHIRE. tn»e is in this pansh. Two coaches run every lawful day betwixt Edinbofgh and Aberdeen, passing through the town. There is also a noddy to and from Montrose* and a caravan to and from Arbroath on Tuesday, which is market-day. There is an ancient bridge at the fewer part of the town, or tenements, on the old roads to Arbroath and For€ur, necessary for the adjoining country to the south ; — and a new one fauehr erected at Stannachy ford, which is intended to serve for a Une of rood just now b^un, both for Dun« dee and Arbroath. The fences of hedges and stone-dikes are in good condition. They are mudi increased and improved of late vears.. A rait-road to Montrose has often been talked of, but no- thing is yet done. We have heard also of the project of a canal, and of deepening and widenii^ the river South Esk. Ekxk^iasikmJ Siaite. — The ^urch is in the centre of the town and parish* in exceUent repair, but very dedcient in acconunoda- tion &vr the part^xiers. — containing only 1500 sittings. There is iK» place above four nules distant. The pastoral charge is collegiate. The first minister has neither nMiise nor gtebei but possesses a house built from the fonds of the KxclHH|uor up^'iurds of fifty years ago, in place of the bishop's pa- laiHS and some excellent garden ground, of neariy an acre in ex- tent. The sti[Hnut, as lately augmented and modified, consists of 19 cImUlors of gniin, half barley, half oatmeal, including 3 J bolls of whoat, l)osides L. 10 for furnishing communion elements. The MH'ond minister has both manse and glebe. The manse was re- luiilt about thirty years ago. The glebe is six acres of good ground to tlio west of the town, near Brechin Castle; he has 17 chalders of Kriiin, besides L.21 from Bishop's rents, and L. 10. for conunu- nion olements. Each minister dispenses the communion once in llio ytmr, in the months of May and October. The stipend of mvU minister converted to monev varies from L. 230 to L. 300 M-yiMir. Tluire are no less than four Presbyterian meeting-houses in lliM (own ; two of the United Secession Church, one of the Ori- g\ml hwjceders, formerly called Antiburghers, and a Relief, for- merly lui English Episcopal chapel. There is one Scotch Epis- iMtniil chapel, attended by most of the gentlemen's families in the MMi|llil>ourhood ; and by a good many of all ranks in the town. The mlMi>*t^r has a good dwelling-house, given to him individually by W\W ^f his richest hearers. One of the United Secession mini- as part of his living. None of the above clergy- BRECHIN. 139 ■ gBC give above Lb 100 a-year, arising from seat rents and col- lections. Tbejre are 2 or 3 Roman Catholics in this parish, but there is no priest nearer than Dundee, The number of families attending the Established church is about 900 ; of families attending the chapels of Dissenters about 400; of fiEunilies attending the chapel of Episcopalians about 60, Tlie average number of conununicants at the parish church is about 1400 each time the communion is dispensed. Tliere is a Bible and missionary society in the town. The ave- rage amount of their subscriptions and donations is about L. 50 a-year, nearly the half of that sum being contributed by each, be- sides occasional collections. These last vary from L. 10 to L.20 annually. Education. — There are nine schools in the parish, besides three or four for females only. Two of the former in the town, and one of the latter have each a salary. Two in the country are supported partly by the kirk-session ; one of them from a small sum mortified by Mr Johnston, minister here, about sixty years ago. There is one parochial school ; in which the branches of education taught are, reading English, writing, arithmetic, English grammar, geography, Greek, Latin, French, book-keeping, and practical mathematics. The same are taught, more or less, in the other schools. The pa- rochial schoolmaster's salary is L. 34, 4s. 4d. The amount of school fees for some years has been about L. 70. No house or garden is given by the heritors. In lieu of the parochial school acconuno- dation an allowance of L. 10 a-year is granted by the magistrates from the funds of the burgh, agreeably to a stipulation entered in- to betwixt them and the heritors in the year 1808, when a regu- lar parish school was first established. The yearly expense of education, in reading only, is 10s. ; in reading and writing, 16s. ; when arithmetic is added, it is 18s. ; and with Latin, it is L. 1, 4s. A vacancy having lately occurred in one of the public schools, steps are in the course of being taken, before filling up the vacancy, to remodel the system of education that has hitherto prevailed in this place, and to put the schools on a more efficient footing, by adopting the modem plan of dividing the branches among three different teachers, each of them having a salary independently of the others. The people in general set a high value on education. Very few, indeed, can neither read nor write ; and none in the parish are at a very inconvenient distance from one school or another. 140 forfahshire. Seldom does so touch ignorance appear as sometimes did twenty or thirty years ago. Yet morals cannot be said to have improved in proportion to the means of instruction. LMerature. — There is a parish library, consisting of about 600 books of a useful and religious kind : and each of our two booksel- lers has a circulating library. There is usually a public news- room : and a printing press has lately been established. Charitable Institutions. — There is here an institution called the Hospital of Maison Dieu, which gives small weekly allowances to poor residenters, widows, and children of burghers. There is also a public dispensary, established several years ago, chiefly by means of a legacy from the late Mrs Speid of Ardovie, and supported by subscription from some of the heritors and other inhabitants. It is very usefuL The patients average 73 in number for the last eight years. There are several friendly societies, both for males and females in distress ; but most of them are expiring from want of encouragement, or from wrong calculations. They surely tend to create a spirit of independence and of frugality. We have also a society of ladies for relieving aged and indigent women, about 60 in number, who receive one shilling monthly. It was instituted in 1810. Savings BanL — There is a savings bank chiefly employed by servants, who are sober and industrious. The amount invested from September 1832, to September 1833, was L. 595, 9s. lid. : with- drawn in the same time L. 659, 12s. 9d. Poor and Poori Funds. — From 60 to 200 paupers receive aid from the session funds. The former number consists of weekly pen- sioners, at Is.; on an average, widows with children receive from Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. according to their necessities. The funds for their relief arise from the collections at church, and some garden rents belong- ing to the session ; besides 200 sittings in the church, fines and mort- cloths, — the whole amounting to about L. 250. Last year they rose as high as L. 340, 7s. ; but an extraordinary call was then made upon the heritors. There is as yet no assessment, but it is feared, if the poor and abo Dissenters increase in number, that recourse must be had to it. Some are slow in applying for parochial aid, but others are too ready to seek it. An assessment, it is well known, greatly increases this propensity. Prisons. — There are too often some prisoners in our jail, usual- ly for debt, sometimes for bad conduct. During the last year (1831) there were confined for debt, 14j on criminal charges, 20. BRECHIN. 141 Tbe prison is tolerably well secured. An attempt was made about two years ago to escape by the ceiling, but was discovered in time to prerent it. To promote a current of air, an iron door with grating has been lately erected. Two apartments have each a window ; the black hole has a small opening only to let in air, and a feeble light. The superintendence is in the hands of the ma- gistrates* Fairsj Sfc* — There are several fairs or markets in the parish. TIic celebrated Trinity Muir market is held at a mile's distance from the town, four times in the year. The one held in the month of June is by &r the best attended. At the terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas there are very considerable markets held on the streets for the hiring of servants, as well as for the sale of merchants' goods. Maikets for horses and cattle are held for several weeks in winter and spring every Tuesday, which is the weekly market day ; but butcher-meat of the best quality, and especially mutton, can be had at any time in abundance. iimtw— There are by far too many inns and other public houses,— upwards of sixty in the town and tenements, — besides three or four in the country part of the parish. Their effects on morals arc in many cases very bad. Fueh — The chief fuel is coal brought by land-carriage from Montrose. An ordinary cart-load costs 5s. in addition to the price of the coals at the shore. Some wood is got in the neigh- bourhood, on which the poor depend much for fueL It is not al- ways honestly come by. There arc no peats nearer than Amhall in the Meams ; of course they are but little made use of. Miscellaneous Observations. There are striking changes, both in the personal appearance of the people and in places, within the last thirty years. Much bet- ter houses are built, both in the town and country. Far more hedges are planted ; and other kinds of fences are more complete. The alteration in the dress of both sexes is very remarkable. Bonnets and plaids, then common, are now almost exploded. The desire of knowledge is increasing, and a love of reading is pretty ge- neral. On the whole, the people have many advantages of which it is to be hoped not a few of them are sensible. Drawn up January 1833. Revised December 1833. PARISH OF DUNNICHEN. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JAMES HEADRICK, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries. — Some difference of opinion exists con- cerning the origin of the name Dunnichen. Most people derive it from Nechtan, a Pictish chieftain, who is said to have resided in the parish. But although it has been the uniform practice of the Gael to name persons from their place of residence, they never named places from persons. I am, therefore, disposed to think that Dun- nichen is a corruption of Dun-Achan^ the hill or fort of the val- ley. This is exactly descriptive of the hill of Dunnichen, which, on the north, looks down on the lochs of Rescobie and Balgaies ; towards the east, upon the whole valley of the Lunan ; towards the west, upon Forfar and its contiguous loch, and through Strathmore, until the view is bounded by ShehaUien and the Perthshire Gram- pians. From the west of this hill the water flows down through Strathmore, and from the east it flows towards the Lunan and Lunan Bay. From the south side of the hill a low shoulder is projected, on which there once stood a fort built with dry stone, without any cement It is agreed at all hands that the parish de- rived its name from this fort or castle. The foundation of a si- milar fort is still visible on the hill of Dunbarrow, a detached part of this parish. The parish consists of three estates or properties, detached from each other ; and in whole contains 4024 Scotch acres. Topographical Appearances. — There are no elevations in this parish which can claim the name of mountains. The hill of Dunnichen is the most elevated part; its highest pinnacle was ascertained to be 800 feet above the level of the sea. This hill, with a few exceptions, is covered with soil, and is planted or cultivated to its summit The hill of Dunbarrow may be about 700 feet above the sea. Dunnichen House, situated near the DrNMCIIEN. 143 foot of the southern slope of Dunnichen Hill, is the most northern house of the parish, and was ascertained to be 400 feet above the sea, and distant from the sea, at Arbroath, about ten miles. The medium elevation of the whole parish may be about 360 feet above the sc^a leveL The lands of Dunnichen consist of gentle undula- tions or ridges running from west to east, their greatest and most rapid descent being towards Vinney Water on the south. The lands of Tulloes have a very gentle rise from Vinney Water to the summit of the ridge which separates them from Carmyllie on the south ; and this ridge may be about 600 feet above the sea. The lands of Duubarrow rise in all directions towards the hill, their steepest acclivity being towards the north-west ileteoTohgy. — In general, the cHmate is very similar to that which prevails over a great part of the east of Scotland. The trees, where fully exposed, lean somewhat towards the north-east, showing the prevailing winds to be from the south-west. During spring, and sometimes even in summer, chilling blasts from the east and north-east prevail, with their usual injurious effects : and they are often accompanied by hazy mist, here named eastern hoar. Geology and Mineralogy. — Excepting where they have been laid open by quarries, and a few juttings of whinstone rocks, the strata are uniformly covered by a considerable depth of soil. Sandstone, or freestone, constitutes the great body of our solid strata. These are sometimes seen to alternate with beds of indu- rated clay, which consist of thin plates of a whitish gray, reddish, or bluish colour, here known by the name of cam-stone, because they are used for writing on slates, and, when pounded, are used for whitening hearths, stairs, &c. These clay strata are some- times penetrated by the roots of plants, of a blackish colour ; and sometimes impressions of plants, and of their leaves, are seen upon the surfaces of their plates. Numerous fragments of what appears to have been rushes, of a bluish-green colour, appear in some of these indurated clay strata. Some of the freestone beds are subdivisible into plates of various thickness, the surfaces of which exhibit woody fibres, and have a striking resemblance to polished boards of wainscot. Although our sandstone beds be in- tersected by numerous fissures, which subdivide them into masses which more or less affect a parallelepiped form, having two opposite angles acute, and the other two obtuse ; they are nowhere seen to be intersected by veins of trap or whinstone, or of any other 144 FOHFARSHIRE. materiaL I once picked up a few fragments of heavy spar, some of which were tinged with a green colour from copper, on the southern declivity of the highest pinnacle of Dunnichen Hill, which must have come from a vein of that material which is con- cealed by the soil. But the greatest metallic repositories in the world have been discovered by accident, or exposed to view by streams of water. For this purpose, in Cornwall and other places, they conduct streams of water artificially across the decli- vity of the mountains. The sandstone in the castle quarry of Dunnichen dips to the north about five feet in twenty -four, making an angle with the ho- rizon of 12^. This quarry furnishes excellent mill-stones for grinding com. It also furnishes stones of large dunensions, which can be easily dressed and polished immediately after they are raised, but if allowed to remain some time, no tool can penetrate them. In some of its beds there are rounded pebbles of jasper, quartz and agate, mterspersed. The sandstone of Tulloes dips to the south-east four feet eight inches in twenty-four, mak- ing an angle with the horizon of IP. Our sandstone, or free- stone, is generally of a grayish-white colour. Some of it inclines to blue. Where the trap or whinstone rocks jut above the smface, they appear to be a confused mass, without any stratification or regular arrangement of parts. But where they have been dug into, they are found to be as regularly stratified as the sandstone on which they rest, and by which they are covered towards the dip. On the southern face of the hill of Dunnichen, there are a few jutting rocks of trap, some of which is fatiscent, as it decomposes in concentric scales. Other parts have numerous particles of steatites, of a dirty yellowish-white colour, interspersed, and, from the resemblance to that animal, have obtained the name of toad-stone. On the farm of Pinkerton, there is a confused very porous stratum of trap cover- ing a freestone quarry. On the farm of Broadlea, there is another jutting rock of that species of trap which is called greensttme. This rock has of late been much quarried for stones to mend the roads, and is found to be composed of several very regular strata, each of which is made up of blocks of various dimensions, of which some afiect the rude columnar form. These strata dip to the north- east at the rate" of nine feet in twenty-four, and malce an angle with the horizon of 21*^. All the visible rocks of the hill of Dum- 4 DUNNICHEN. Uf) barrow are trap ; and these include all the visible tnip rocks in this parish. A thin silicious incrustation sometimes intersects our trap rocks. In other cases there are hollows lined with a silicious in- crustation, from which beautiful rock crystals project towards the centre of the hollow. On the summit and sides of the hill of Dunnichen there are seve- * ral large loose masses of mica-slate and granite. Large granite stones, which interrupted the plough, were dug up some years ago, on the farm of Broadlea. A large mass of granite was lately blasted to the north of Letham ; and many stones of these kinds occur, or have been discovered, in various parts of the parish, all more or less rounded by attrition. There being no rock of these stones nearer than the Grampians, we are puzzled to account for their getting into their present position. In the beautiful mass of granite that was blasted near Letham, I observed fragments of dark- blue whinstone interspersed in the body of the stone. Tlie quality of our soils may be inferred from that of the rocks which they cover, and from whose decomposition th^ have been formed. A large sheet of good soil slopes from the south side of Dunnichen Hill. In the upper part, this soil is too shallow, and too near the rock. It deepens as it descends, and may be de- scribed as a friable loam, in which sand predominates. It seems to have been made up of particles washed down from the hill above. In the different ridges of the parish, where the soil is .primary, the subsoil is always tenacious, or impervious to mois- ture. Of course it is apt to throw up nishes, Sphagnum palus" trey and other moss-plants. This sort of soil prevails on the summit of those ridges of which the estate of Dunnichen is com- posed. The only exception is that of soils formed from the decom- position of trap-rocks, which are always fertile, provided they be of sufficient depth. On the estate of Tulloes, the lower part is an alluvial haugh soil, and becomes less fertile as you advance to the higher grounds. The same observation applies to the estate of Dumbarrow, which is least fertile at the higher parts, where the soil is primary, but becomes deeper and more fertile as we descend. In a word, the soils of this parish may be ranked under two classes, — ^friable loams, in which sand predominates ; and friable clays, with a retentive subsoil. Most of the stones which were injurious to agriculture have been removed to make drains, mend the roads, FORFAR. K 146 FORFARSHIRE. and for other purposes : some operations of these kinds arc, how- ever, still necessary. Hydrography. — There is a small chalybeate spring on the north side of the drain leading*from the loch of Dimnichen ; from which some people have thought they found relief in stomach complaints. A much more copious spring of the same quality, although not so strongly impregnated, has its fountain head on the north-west cor- ner of Dumbarrow, although it breaks out in the parish of Kirkden. The only loch in the parish is what is commonly called the Mire of Dunnichen. This occupies a space of about fifty acres, and has been partially drained for marl, and converted into pasture land. But, to render the improvement effectual, the drain would require to be made five or six feet deeper, and concealed drains thrown out on each side of it, to take off springs which rise from different parts of its bottom. The only running-water in the parish is the small rivulet of Vinney Water, which rises in the parish of Forfar, from what was the loch of Lower, but is now completely drained, and converted into fertile land. This rivulet, after receiving some smaller streams in its pro- gress, joins Lunan Water near Pitmuies, in the parish of Kirkden. IL — Civil History. Antiquities, — The stones of the fort or castle, before referred to, have been removed to build fences ; and its area has been nearly obliterated by a quarry. On its floor was found a thick bed of wood ashes, mixed with numerous bones, which seem to have be- longed to the animals on which the inhabitants fed. In one place there is said to have been found a number of small golden bullets, which seem to have been the current coin of the times when they were formed. A confused tradition prevails of a great battle having been fought on the East Mains of Dunnichen, between Lothus King of the Picts, or his son Modred, and Arthur King of the Britons, in which that hero of romance was slain. Buchanan, no doubt, places the scene of that battle upon the banks of the Humber, in England. But it is probable that some battle had been fought here ; for, a good many years ago, on the East Mains of Dunnichen, there was turned up with the plough a large flat stone, on which is cut a rude outline of an armed warrior's head and shoulders ; and not many years ago, the plough also uncovered some graves on another part of the same fann. These graves consisted of flat stones on all DUNNICHEN. 147 sides. They were filled with human bones, and urns of red clay, with rude ornaments upon them ; the urns being fdled with whitish- gray ashes. By exposure to the air, the bones and the urns moul- dered into dust In a round gravel knoll near the Den of Letham, a consider- able number of similar graves was found. The graves were situ- ated in a thick bed of fine sand, which intersected the knoll; and were constructed every way similar to the former. They contain- ed human bones, which seem to have been crammed together without much regard to arrangement. The urns with their ashes were every way similar to the former. The neck-bones of some were adorned with strings of beads. These were of a beautiful glossy black colour, neatly perforated longitudinally, and strung together by the fibres of animals. They were of an oval figure; laige and small ones were arranged alternately ; the large ones flat on the two opposite surfaces, the small ones round. They seemed to consist of ebony, or of some fine-grained species of wood, which had been charred, and then finely polished. On keeping them some time, they split into plates, and the woody fibres sepa- rated. The bones also, and the urns, mouldered into dust. In some of these graves rusty daggers were found, which fell in pieces by handling. It appears the bodies had been first burnt, as the ashes contained numerous particles of charcoal of wood. Land-aumers. — The parish, as formerly stated, is divided into three properties, namely, Dunnichen, Tulloes, and Dumbarrow. James Hawkins, Esq. advocate, is heir-apparent to the estate of Dunnichen. He resides at Dininichen House, and is the onlv re- siding heritor. Tulloes belongs to John Oughterlony, Esq. of Guynd. Dumbarrow belongs to Alexander Lyall, Esq. of Gardyne. Eminent Persons. — The only person of eminence we ever heard of connected with the parish, is the late George Dempster, Esq. who was many years member of Parliament for the Forfar, Dundee, &c district of burghs ; but his character and conduct are too well known to require any illustration. III. — Population. The population, as taken by the Government census, was In the year 1801, - - 1049 1811, . - 1233 1821, . . 1433 1831, - . 1513 In the census of 1831, there were foimd in the parish 331 inha- OVi^l'^^ '"''"■ Wveft:/ <^^s"f ^'" 3^» Canutes? ^' ite o^ >":_.„ bands. ^^ ^^^.^ »nd ^^'^_^ ^otn ^«^ jses. o«« ^rlsX^"""' \tvto tY\e \3^ ea^ >to \st Jatvu*^ \893, 16 \6 \4 16 16 ft VI 13 \6 19 32 36 3^ 1830, \83\ 2D 2D 16 IB 13 \^ 2D 23^ 2D1 33 33 4D 40 33 43B \1 .w lt9» iVvati e(¥ nsAs, eats, tVe ^^^^^ ^eo caxtv tou' c\v tbe e%<=«*i:;n tVveT"*' a gres g' eat«^' of to a\e9 «««^^f Ia. Aanng over aiv - . , B«t, «« ^^f, "' oHetoa^"gVn*e¥*^* a ^^"^^ Vat fids *»* indwa'^' «r returned. s ^^^Xo^etA^ .^ ^r^^ WaJa^°:^? „ Vrov\- o\eT setv vievet CV^«^^ «-^«"l'et^ tVve«^- ' v.o«vetv,t\,tbNtVve*«¥«' tobeiVvei:;^:„wV)Ot- tiv\i to V^^ »ViAe tor A^i>^ st^v. i? ri ■nd l\l\9 ^^ iv.- \tv u\\»«<^ IS of Scotch actc» suHWai .ted ot '^^^""rc.^HWsted, ,^,,tedotV- AflXiteA, \3ivc TViat toig^^ be ex T^\e s^f """i;!* *>««' ^"^ aWsV^^^^ IS vfbs^^ '^^ ca 494 494 4\4 A\cA t\^^ ste«t^ DUNMCIIEN. Hf) ternate, which consists of interposing a gri^en crop, or naked fallow, between every two corn crops. At first breaking up from lea, oats •re sown ; then turnips and potatoes drilled ; next barley, witb rye- grass and clover; next pasture, for one or more years. Sometimes, when the land is in very good heart, two or more crops of oats arc taken al first breaking up. Sometimes wheat is sown after pota- toes, and sometimes on clover-lea, with addition of manure: if after potatoes, or naked fallow, the grass seeds are always sown dong with it. But for some years past the seasons have l)een so unfavouralile at the critical time of flowering and fructifying, and the wheat has been so much destroyed by the fly, that the cuhi- vation of this grain has been almost abandoned, and barley substi- tuted in its place. Formerly wheat was always sown after naked fallow ; and a part sometimes after ])otatoes or clover leiu Now, with wheat, the extent of naked fallow is very much reduced, and barley is sown upon the potatoe and tuniip Umd, which receives all the manure. Of late the turnip husbandry has been extended by bone dust, which raises a good crop on light sandy ground, but does not seem to succeed so well on stiff* clays. The store-masters of the Grampians send down their flocks of sheep to feeil on these turnips during winter, and they are confined to three drills at a time by means of flakes. They prefer these wooden flakes to nets, because the sheep being of the horned black-faced breed, their horns might get entangled in the nets, and tear them in pieces. The kinds of turnips cultivated here are the globe, the green and red-tops, or rather a mixture of all. A portion of (he yellow turnip is in every field ; but, unless the seeds themselves were to be raised, they seldom can be got unmixed. Every farmer has also a few drills of curly kail in his turnip field. The grains cultivated are the potatoe -oat, of which they frequently change the seed ; the two-rowed barley ; the white Essex wheat, of which they receive frequent change of seed from London or the Carse of Gowrie; graypeasin some places, — drilled beans having been tried, but not found to succeed. Some farmers also sow portions of vetches, as green fodder for their live stock. Various kinds of potatoes have prevailed here at different times ; but the kinds most in vogue at present are the large globidar red, and the small Ame- rican of a white colour. Shell marl from the Loch of Ilestenneth, which belongs to the estate of Dunnichen, although in the parish of Forfar, has been a powerful instrument of improvement in this quarter. It is com- 150 FORFARSHIRE. inonly applied in compost with earth and dung to turnips or to wheat when sown upon naked fallow, or upon hay-stubble. The ploughmen here are very expert, and some of them have been carried to Ireland, and other distant places. Some of them are mar- ried, and live in cottages annexed to the farm-house. But most of them are unmarried, and live in what are called bothies^ contiguous to the farm-house. Each receives a certain allowance of meal and milk, potatoes and other articles, besides wages, which vary from L. 10 to L. 15 or L. 20, according to circumstances. The reap- ing is mostly performed by threaving, but partly by the scythe. Much of the estate of Dunnichen is but one step removed from the runrig, or rig and rennel system, which still prevails in some parts of the Highlands. However, as leases fall, it is now in the course of being lotting into separate farms, and commodious farm- offices are building. The two-horse plough, of Small's construction, is universally in use. The cattle, and sometimes also the horses, are fed on turnips during winter, along with straw or other fodder. Sometimes, also, they get a feed of yams or other potatoes ; but the surplus of potatoes generally goes to feed pigs. There are two corn-mills upon the estate of Dunnichen, at Craichy and Letham; the latter also fabricates pot-barley. Tliere is also a corn-mill at Dumbarrow. There are four thrashing-ma- chines at Dumbarrow, two of which are moved by water, one by horses, and one by wind. There are two on the estate of Tulloes, one moved by horses, the other by water. On the estate of Dun- nichen there are seven thrashing-machines, one moved by water, the rest by horses, — in ?ill thirteen in the parish. Breeds of Live Stock. — There are no sheep kept in the parish. The kind of cattle which most generally prevails is the Galloway breed, sometimes here called humlies^ because they have no horns. Although this breed has been much cultivated in Gralloway, it does not seem to be peculiar to that district; for I have seen individuals without horns among the middle-horned breeds in various parts of the Highlands and Isles. There are also a very few of the middle- horned breed of Fife extraction, and still fewer of the short-horned or Tees-water breed. The milch cows here, during the best of the season, yield from twelve to fourteen Scotch pints of milk a-day. The milk is generally skimmed, the cream made into butter, and the milk into skimmed-milk cheese. The cattle that are put to pasture in DUNMCHEN. 151 grass^parks are of all descriptions, and .are bought at the neigh- bouring fairs. Produce, — The average gross amount and value of raw produce raised yearly, on an average of the last five years, is as follows : — 1240 acres of com and other grains of all kiiids, valued at an average of L. 7 |>cr Scotch acre, - - - - - L. 8680 465 acres of potatoes, turnips, and other green crop, valued at L. 10 peracre, - ..... 46j0 150 acres of summer fallow, .... 465acre8of hay, valued at L. 6 per acre, ... 2790 792 acres of pasture, valued at L. 2 per acre, - - 1584 968 acres of uncultivated land at 5s. per acre, ... 247 414 acres of wood, thinnings of which valued at, - - 20 Produce of quarries, - - - - - - - 2000 Dairy produce, 399 10 Sales oflive stock annually, ..... 1240 Gross amount of value, L. 19630 10 Manufacture8.^^T!\ie principal, indeed the only staple manufac- ture of the parish, is the weaving of coarse linens, called Osna- burghs. Along with this, some occasional work is done in sheeting and shirting, but chiefly for private use. Many of the families en- gaged in this work have small farms, held either in lease or feu, which they cultivate at their leisure hours. There is a spinning- mill in the Den of Letham, moved by the water of Vinney, for spinning lint and tow into yarn. This mill is furnished with a steam- engine to move the machinery when the water is deficient But I understand they have had no occasion to have recourse to steam these several years past Formerly, spinning was the peculiar province of the women. But since the spinning-mills have become so numerous, they have betaken themselves to weaving, and there are nearly as many women now employed at the loom as men. Al- though some attempts have been made to introduce power-looms, they have not been found to answer for the coarse fabrics of this district All weaving is done by the piece. At present, every person who is willing to work finds employment There is, how- ever, a general complaint of the lowness of wages, although none of the highness of provisions. V. — Parochial Economy. Marhet'Townsj Sfc. — The principal village in the parish is Le- tham, which, with its adjuncts, contains upwards of 900 souls. It was laid out on a very regular plan by the late Mr Dempster, and is yearly increasing. There are two markets here for all kinds of 152 FORFARSHIRE. bestial, hiring of servants, &c There is a linen-hall in this vil- lage, which is now converted into a school-room,* North of Letham there is a long straggling village called Drum- mietermon, chiefly inhabited by small formers, most of whom are weavers. There are also small villages at Bouriefad, at Craichy, Cotton of Lownic, and Kirkton of Dunnichen. To the west of Dunnichen there is another straggling village, called Cotton of Lownie, chiefly inhabited by small farmers, most of whom are also weavers. In the Kirkton of Dunnichen an annual fair is held on the third Wednesday of March, Old Style. This is said to have been a great market in former times, and was held with continuation of days. Now very little business is done there ; and only a few idle people assemble at it for amusement. Means of Communication* — The old roads of this parish are ge- nerally very ill contrived. The principal road upon the estate of Dunnichen is too narrow, and is always miry in wet weather. A new toll road from Dundee to Brechin has long been in contempla- tion, which will pass through Letham. This road has been com- pleted in some places to the northward, and has been already formed in so far as it passes through the estate of Dunnichen. It cannot fail to be of great advantage to this district, by opening an easy communication with the distinguished port of Dundee. There are only four bridges in the parish, each of one arch. Ecclesiastiad State.-^T\\e earliest place of worship in the parish was situated in the shallow lake, or Mire of Dunnichen, on what has some appearance of having been an artificial island, and of which some of the foundations are still visible. A deep ditch had separated it from the solid land ; and the ditch seems to have been crossed by a draw-bridge. This place obtained the name of St Cows- land's Chapel. After William the Lion had granted all the lands an- nexed to Red Castle, and many others, to the monastery of Ar- broath, of which he was the founder, it appears that this fraternity converted Cowsland's Chapel into a parish church, and constitut- ed all their lands in this quarter into a parish annexed to this church. There not being a sufficient quantity of produce to afibrd a stipend to a clergyman, farm-bolls and feu-duties were allotted from the cultivated lands on Lunan Water for his support, f *' At a fiur which was held here on a Saturday in 1832, the Sabbath was largely encroached upon, and on that morning an atrocious murder was committed. ThQ;olBrcn- dcr having pled culpable homicide, was sentenced to one year*s imprisonment. / A circumsianQv may be mentioned that shows the state of agriculture in these DUNMCHEN. 15;) The present diurch is situated on a rising ground at the lower psrt of the kirk-4own of Dunnichen. It is on the outside of the parish, — tliere being only three inhabited houses, (of which the oiansioii-house of Dunnichen is one,) near to it on the north. This dmrch was built from the foundation in 1802, but in a very im- perfect manner. It is in a damp situation, was covered with heavy nnd-stone flags, and the cupples, being of young unseasoned wooil, vere so completely rotten, that in 1817, it became necessary to famish it with a new roof, covered with blue slates. It can ncconi- modate about 500 sitters, and is lotted into three divisions, corre- iponding to the valuation in the county books of the three estates in the parish. Each proprietor subdivides his portion of the church among his tenants. Since the people of Kirkden have ^ot a spa- cious and elegant new church in the neighbourhooil of Lethmn, most of these people have got accommodation there. There are no free sittings in the church; and the number of communicants always somewhat exceeds 500. The old manse was situated immediately under the church-yard, which overtopped its eaves. After a long and expensive litigation before the Court of Session, a new manse and offices were built in a dry and well-aired situation in 1814-15; but, as the cheapest estimate was accepted, and no proper inspector was appointed, every thing was done in the most insufficient manner, and the un- dertakers were discharged before the work was finished. A more effectual repair of the offices was agreed upon last spring ; but it has been delayed from various causes, until they are in danger of falling down. There were two adjudications of a glebe by the presbytery. The first allotted four acres of arable or tilled land, with two acres of meadow pasture, besides the garden and stance of manse and offices, which are half an acre. There were included some patches which never had been tilled, but which have since been trcnclied and times. Forty-eight bolls of oats, iMiyable to the parson of Dunnichen, were after- wards eichanged for 19^ bolls of meal. This shows that black oats were then culti- vated on the best of the monastic lands, as they arc in some parts of the Highlands and Isles to this day, and of which two bolls only yield one boll of nK>al. The meal being more portable, it was reckoned a just equivalent for the oats, after paying the mill dues. Ilaving thus provided what was reckoned a sufficient stipend for the mi- nister of Dunnichen, these monks were allowed to alienate the lands of Dunnichen, ram decimU incluMlt, But if these l>olls sliould be evicted, (and part of them has been evicted to augment the stipend of the minister of the parish,) it may become a ques- tion at law, whether recourse may not be competent upon the tciiids of Dunnichen. 154 FORFARSHIRE. brought into cultivation. The next adjudication was for straiglit- ing marches and inclosing. Former ministers also had a right of pasturing their cattle on the hill of Dunnichen, in name of turf and divot land, which was taken from them without such an equivalent as is granted in other cases in this comitry. The minister has also a right to cast peats in the moss of Dunnichcn. There was formerly a road up to the church, passijig through the glebe, which, during a vacancy, was shut, and along with it a very valuable part of the grass glebe was taken off. The consequence is, that there is no road to the remainder of the grass glebe but through the arable ground, which occasions so much destruction of the crops, that the glebe is of little value. Several years ago the General Assembly granted warrant to prosecute the redress of these griev- ances from the funds of the church ; but the present incumbent has waited, though in vain, expecting to get them amicably settled. The only stipend payable from the parish is from the estate of Dumbarrow, — 6 J b. bear, 24b. 6 p. oatmeal, and 18s. vicarage; and from the estate of Dunnichen L. 2, 16s. 4d. vicarage. All the rest of the stipend is paid by Lord Panmure and other proprietors of land which belonged to the monastery of Arbroath : also by the Earl of Strathmore. By the 50th Geo. III., L. 22, 5s. Id. were added to raise the stipend to L. 150 ; but when the victual fell much lower than was established by that act, in cheap years the stipend hardly exceeded L. 100. To remedy this, by the 5th Geo. IV., L. 15, 17s. 7d. were added, which maljps the whole allowance from Go- vernment amount to L. 38, 2s. 8d. From this it can easily be seen, that, when the fiars' prices exceed the valuation of that act, the stipend proportionally exceeds L. 150 ; but when the fiars are below that valuation, which is the case at present, and likely to continue, the value of the stipend is proportionally below L. 150. In this parish there is a meeting-house belonging to the sect of Congregationalists. The hall of Letham also is used as a place of public worship by a congregation of Seceders. The preacher in the latter is paid partly from collections, partly from their synod fund : the other is also paid partly from collections, and partly from a fund established by the adherents of his sect. Some time ago, Mr James Hawkins, advocate, heir apparent of the estate of Dunnichen, became a convert to the famous Row heresy, which he preached in this parish, in a chapel which he him- self built. The chapel has been for some time vacant : but it is said DUNMCHEN. 155 he is in quest of a person of his own sentiments, to be established in it as a settled ministen In this he has not yet succeeded. Upon the whole, however, the parish church is very well attended. The number of persons frequenting the chapel of the Congrega- tionalists, and who reside in this parish, amounts to 20. Of Se- ceders, there are probably about 60 individuals in the parish. — All the rest of the parishioners adhere to the established church. Education. — The parochial school is situated at Craichy. The onginal object of placing it there was to accommodate the people on the estate of TuUoes. But these people being mostly removed, there are few children within reach of the school. The teacher has enjoyed a complete university education, and is well qualified m classical literature, in arithmetic, algebra, and the higher branches of calculation ; also in mathematics, and their application to prac- tical purposes. He sometimes has a scholar or two in Latin, but seldom has any demand for the higher branches of education. The dwelling-house consists of only two apartments, and the school-room has a cold damp floor, which is very uncomfortable for children in winter. The number of scholars is sometimes about 30, but is often below that number. The salary is the maximum. The fees_ are the lowest allowed in country schools, namely, 2s. 6d. a quarter for beginners; 3s. for those advanced to writing; and 4s. for those learning arithmetic. The amount of school fees actual- ly received is very various, and in a course of years may ave- rage from L. 5 to L. 6 per annum. The teacher is also session- clerk, at a salary of L. 2, 7s. : but he gives L. 2 of that to the precentor, and receives only such perquisites as accrue. He is also collector of the parish road-money, for which his remuneration is very trifling. Since the village of Letham began to advance in population, there has always been a school kept there. There was also a dwelling-house built for him by subscription, which the feuars of Letham took from him without legal authority. Mr Millar, con- nected with the Secession, is their present teacher. The same branches are taught, and the same fees are charged, as in the parish school. The number of scholars varies from 85 to 105. They are not all from this parish, but partly from the neighbouring parishes of Rescobie and Kirkden, which are contiglious to Le- tham. There is another private school at the bridge of Dumbarrow, * taught by a Mr Dickeson, who belongs to our church. Tlie 156 FORFARSHIRE. same branches are taught, and the same fees paid, as in oilier schools. The people there have built a commodious house and school-room for the teacher. I cannot learn whether they afford any salary. The number of scholars varies from 65 to 85. They are not all from the district of Dumbarrow, but a considerable pro- portion of them from the neighbouring parishes of Kirkden and Carmyllie. Library. — We have a library at Letham, containing from 400 to 500 volumes. These treat of religion and morality ; of civil history, especially that of our own country; of agriculture; na- tural history; and various branches of the mechanical sciences. This library was made up, partly by donations of books from va- rious individuals, partly by annual subscriptions of persons in this parish, and in those parts of the neighbouring parishes of Kirkden and Rescobie, which are contiguous to Letham, partly also from collections in the churches of Dunnichen and Kirkden. Poor and Parochial Funds. — It appears from the session books, that there were L. 100 at one time accumulated for the use of the poor. But it also appears, that when times of distress occurred, the heritors would give nothing until this stock was exhausted. For a considerable time, the funds arising from collections, mort- cloth dues, proclamation of banns, and fines, amounted to from L. 45 to L. 48 per annum, by which the session contrived to sup- port the poor, with a little aid, in times of distress, from the late Mr Dempster. At last, on the occasion of its being found neces- sary to send to the lunatic asylum at Dundee a deranged woman whose maintenance and clothing cost about L. 20 per annum, this sum was raised by subscriptions ; which mode of collecting conti- nued several years. It was afterwards found necessary to establish an assessment, since which time the collections havo fallen very much off. The assessment was the more necessary, as we Were obliged to send another person to the Asylum at Dundee. Meanwhile the session, on account of certain calumnies that were raised against them, were induced to resign the active manage- ment of the poor, which is now vested in a committee appoint- ed by the heritors. Some of the poor receive Is. or a peck of meal, a-week ; one receives 2s. and another family 3s. With the exception of a few individuals, they are verj' averse to come upon the poors' funds. The following is an account of the receipts and expenditure of DUNNICHEX, i:>7 poor's money, from Ist Januan* 1802, to 31st December same year: Concctions in the church, .... From BottTd of Health, ..... MortclotlM, ..... ProchRuiUonsofbMiiu, .... To which add, Aausmient ofad April 1832, Do. oTlft October 1892, CoDcctione received bj the managers of the poor. From Mary Loimie*8 roup, ..... L. u 4 I 74 1 8 (> 17 L.15 16 s GO 40 4 7 10 1 8 Sum raiwd, - . . I^ 121 12 » Expenditure of the kirk-WMion from Itt January 18*12, to .*)lst l>c- cember aamc year, - . L. II 13 OJ Expended by committeo of managers, 64 18 3 To collector of aneatment, - 2 To aaylum, Dundee* for two lunatics - - 93 10 I i Sum expended, - . L. 112 2 2^ Balance rcnuiinipg. . - 1^0 il^ Alehouses. — There is a general com])laiiit that the public houses in the parish are too numerous ; but the great scarcity of money seems to prevent them from having any sensible effect upon the morals of the people. FueL — The fuel chiefly used here is EngHsh coals, which the farmers or their servants bring from Arbroath or Dundee. December 1833. PARISH OF KIRRIEMUIR. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. THOMAS EASTON, D. D. MINISTER. L T6P0GRAPHY AND NATURAL HiSTORY. Name^ Boundaries^ Sfc. — Kirriemuir lies at the north side of the extensive and fertile valley of Strathmore, in the county of Angus, and is about eighteen miles from Dundee, twenty from Arbroath, and as many from Montrose. The name is by some supposed to be compounded of two words, Corrie-mdr^ the large hollmo or den ; by others, it is said to be a Celtic word, which means the " large quarter or district,** The position of the town, on the side of a ravine or den, which extends nearly a mile in length, and is upwards of 100 feet in depth, supports the former derivation; while the latter may be supposed to have reference to the great extent of country which the parish embraces. The parish is divided into two considerable districts, which are separated from each other by part of the parish of Kingoldrum : the one, the northern, usually called Glenprosen, is chiefly pastoral, — the other, the southern, is agricultural and manufactur- ing. The southern division is nearly square in its form, being, according to Mr Blackadder, about five miles in each direction ; and contains about 16,000 imperial acres. The northern division is about nine miles in length, and varies, according to the same authority, from two to four miles in breadth. It contains about 18,000 imperial acres. The southern division of the parish is bounded on the west by Airly and Kingoldrum; on the north by Kingoldrum; on the east by Cortachy, Tannadice and Oathlaw ; and on the south by Forfar and Glammis. The northern division is bounded on the west by Lintrathen and Glenisla ; on the south by Kingoldrum ; on the east by Cortachy ; and on the north by Clova. Topographical Appearances. — Nothing can be more dissimilar than the two districts into which the parish has been divided ; KIRRIEMUIR. l.V.) vUe the southenx division is chiefly level, the northcrii divlsioi) is Dorlv all mountainous. In Tie¥riiig the southern division of the parish from the hill of Kirriemuir, from which it is nearly all visible, we find that for about a mile to the north of the parishes of Forfar and Glani- mis it is nearly level ; and that then it rises gently, fonniiig al- most one continued sloping bank, till within a few hundred yards of the town, which stands nearly in the centre, and is separated from this bank by a deep hollow or ^^ den," to which we have already alluded. To the east and west of the town the parish is nearly flat ; to the north it is almost level, till we reach the braes of Inverquharity, the summits of which are covered with thriving plantations, which contribute greatly to their beauty. The northern division of the parish may be described sis consist- ing of a large glen along the Proscn, flanked by lofty mountains wUch rise on either side, but which are intersected by numerous small glens and openings. The most remarkable mountain in the parish is Catlaw, part of which is in the parish of Kirriemuir, and part in the parish of Kingoldrum. This mountain forms the foremost of the Grampian ridge, which extends in an uninterrupted chain from the German Ocean to the Atlantic, and is by some supposed to be the Mons Grampius of Tacitus. It is 2264 feet above the level of the sea. The braes of Inverquharity, and the hill of Kirriemuir, the only eminences of any consequence in the southern division of the pa- rish, are under cultivation up to their summit ; but the mountains of Glenprosen are in general covered with heath, interspersed with patches of grass, produced or cherished by the many rills of water which run down their sides. Meteorology — Climate. — The climate of the parish varies consi- derably, — the lower part being milder and more temperate than the higher, except in the middle of summer, when, owing to the reflexion of the sun's rays from the hills, the latter is perhaps warmer than the former. About the boundaries of the parishes of Forfar and Glam- mis, the air is milder than near the town, and to the northward of it. Upon the whole, the climate of the southern division of the parish may be described (especially since the ground has been so much drained,) as more dry than moist, more clear than foggy, and more salubrious than otherwise; and the sun is often to be seen shining on Kirriemuir while the low parishes in the Strath are enveloped in mist. Many persons of both sexes arrive at the age 160 FORFARSHIRE. of three-score and ten and even fourscore years. In the district of Glenprosen, the population of which amounts to 295, there are ten persons above eighty years of age ; and some time ago I noticed four persons conversing together on the street whose united ages amounted to 338. In 1833 the deaths amounted to 1 in 62 — of which 34 averaged 73, and 13, 80. There is an instance of a married couple who have lived together 64 years. One of their daughters has had twenty children. The heaviest rains come from the east and south-east I be- lieve that as much rain falls in Kirriemuir as in most of the parishes on the west coast of Scotland ; but we have more of it at a time than they have who get more or less of it every day. I understand that the smallest quantity of rain falls in some of the western isles, the inhabitants of which seldom see the sun, from its being enve- loped in a continual fog. The weather with us has been observed for many years to continue steadily of the same kind for certain pe- riods of time. Geology. — The greater part of the southern division of the pa- rish consists partly of the old red sandstone formation, and partly of red schistose sandstone, with occasional rocks of the trap family. At Shielhill a vein of trap cuts the strata in an easterly direction ; and at the bridge of Prosen a bed of conglomerate forms the first line of eminences along the north side of the valley of Strathmore. Under the conglomerate is a stratum of gray roofing-slate, con- taining some vegetable impressions, as in the corresponding beds of the Sidlaw Hills. But the most interesting feature in the geology of the district is a dike of serpentine on the farm of Balloch, de- scribed by Mr Lyell in the third volume of the Edinburgh Journal of Science. The direction of the dike is about east and west ; it is nearly vertical, but with a slight inclination to the north ; and is considered by Mr Lyell as interesting in showing the geological connection between greenstone and serpentine, and the manner in which stratified rocks are affected by their contiguity to dikes of serpentine. In Glenprosen the primitive formation appears to consist of mica-schist, hornblende slate, and gneiss, containing rock-crystal and garnets. Limestone is quarried, and burnt with peat in small rude kilns. Soil — In the southern division of the parish, the soil may in general be classed under two distinct heads, — a margin of sand and gravel, but chiefly of the latter, contiguous to the water on the north, and varying from half a mile to one mile in breadth, — stretching from the Prosen, across the valley of the Carity, KIRRIEMUIR. U)l to some distance on its south side, and contracting into very narrow limits, when it approaches the South Esk, and still con- tinuing along the banks of the latter to the east side of the parish. This species of soil is not confined to the flat haughs on the sides of the waters, which are of no great extent, but stretches orer most of the elevated grounds within the above limits ; and in the lowest portion of the parish, on the south-west, there is an extensive flat tract, about two miles long and one mile broad, of ^ a similar description. The whole of the remainder, forming the centre of this division of the parish, is incumbent on a thick bed of clay, intermixed with stones, provincially termed mortar. Upon many of the heights this deposit is of little depth, but it is rarely altogether awanting, and in few cases does the subjacent rock reach to the soiL This deposit consists of a heterogeneous mixture of clay, sand, and stones of all sizes, from those of many tons weight down to the smallest pebble ; and is in its nature imper- vious to water. The soil on it is therefore more or less damp, unless when possessed of considerable depth, which is frequently the case on the face of sloping grounds, on moderate elevations, or in flats and hollows, where there is an alluvial deposit. In such situations, the richest soil of the parish is found, consisting of black and brown loams of excellent quality, but comparative- ly of little extent In the low gravelly tracts the soil is all dry, but generally thin- ner than the mortar, unless where there happens to be an al- luvial deposit on the flats and hollows, which are in such cases of very rich soil. The tracts on the northern side contain the greatest proportion of good soil, that on the south being chiefly very bare gravel, having a thin black moorish soil on it, equally barren with the coldest and worst soils on the mortar. There is not a pebble to be seen which cannot readily be referred to the parent rock. Within the limits of the mortars there are numerous specks of sandy and gravelly soils, but none of such an extent as to deserve notice in such a general view as this ; and, strictly speaking, there is no strong clay soil, for all the mortar soils arc in general more of a sandy than clayey nature, when compared with clays in other quarters of the county, and those of other districts of Scot- land. In many of the hollows over all this portion of the parish, there are deposits of moss, some of which have been completely, and others partially, drained. In the former case, a considerable FORFAR. L 162 FORFARSHIRE. extent of them has been improved and cultivated, and forms a very productive soil, On the whole, this division of the parish may be stated to be, in respect of soil, fully equal to any of those conti- guous. With respect to the northern division of the parish, the cultivated ground is confined to the bottom of the glen, and in some cases to partial spots, stretching up the sides of the rising grounds. The greatest part of this soil is of a gravelly nature, exactly similar both in kind and in fertility to that which we have already de- scribed on the north side of the lower division. Farther up, on the sides of the mountains, the soil is at first composed of the decayed subjacent roclfl, intermixed with vegetable matter, forming a very good soil ; but in general the ground is both too steep, and of too great elevation, to be cultivated. A very large extent on the sides, the summits, and the hollows of the mountains, is deeply covered with moss. When there is a due mixture of earthy soil, and no excess of surface water, the mountain pasturage is finely intermixed with tender grass and heath, forming valuable sheep-walks ; but, when the soil is damp or mossy, the herbage is of a coarser de- scription. This division of the parish is, in the particulars now referred to, on a par with any of the contiguous mountain dis- tricts, and even superior to some of them. Gravel Pits. — From the description which I have given of the soil of the parish, it may be seen that there are in it many gravel pits, the pebbles imbedded in which partake of the nature of Gram- pian rock, or the subjacent rocks; and the trap does not appear to be a stratified deposit, but a heterogeneous and disordered accumula- tion. It has been remarked, that the particles of the sand at the Loch of Kinnordy and at Roundy Hill, are globular, whereas those of the sand at Auchlishie are angular ; on which account this sand, when mixed with lime, is in high repute as a cement. Peat-Moss, — There are many peat-mosses in the parish. The moss of Kinnordy has been wrought of late in a systematic man- ner. Previous to 1810, the inhabitants of Kirriemuir were al- lowed to dig peats in this moss for themselves; but they con- ducted their operations in a manner so irregular, that the whole surface had become covered with deep pits, and the belief had be- come general, that the moss was exhausted. At this time, at a considerable expense, the person who superintended the work drained the moss according to a plan given by the eminent Mr KIRRIEMUIR. 163 Johnston, — levelling eminences, and filling up excavations ; and, in the course of three years, he found that the whole moss had subsided about three feet, and, in consequence, had become more compact and dry. Having divided the moss into fields, he began at the lower end by trenching the ground ; the peats he laid aside for sale ; but that part of the moss which was of no value he levelled,-— covering the whole with a tramp of clay taken from the bottom, so that the whole of what has been treated in tliis way presents a regular surface. For the last seventeen years, the value of peats sold has amounted annually to a sum from L. 100 to Li 150 Sterling ; and the ground from which the peats are dug, amounting now to twenty or thirty acres, fonnerly of no use, has already produced good crops of grass and corn. Such moss lands should be allowed to lie long in grass ; and, before being broken up, they should be pared and burned, — a small quantity of Ume, if possible, being added. The moss of the Balloch is of considerable extent. It is in some places twenty-two feet in depth. The average depth is sixteen feet The first layer, consisting of unconsolidated moss, is five feet^ There is then an average layer of eleven feet of moss fit for peats ; and at the bottom is a layer of white sandy clay. There is no marl. Beds ofMarL — Shell-marl is well known to be the remains of myriads of small testaceous animals which commonly inhabit pools of water, and which have lived and died in this situation. There are two beds of marl of considerable extent in the parish ; the one the Loch of Kinnordy, the other the meadows of Logie. In the up- per bed of marl there was lately found the skeleton of a stag, Cer- mts elephasj of large dimensions. The horns had nine branches, and weighed when dry nearly eighteen pounds. The skeleton was in a vertical position, the tips of the horns nearly reaching to the surface of the marl, and the feet nearly two yards below. The marl was immediately covered by peat, in which also the skeletons of stags are occasionally discovered. The meadows of Logie were drained under the able direction of Mr Abercrombie. The water which falls into the loch is con- veyed through the contiguous property by an arched under-ground tunnel ; while an embankment around the north side keeps off the land floods, and collects a sufficient quantity of water to serve the purpose of a mill-pond. An immense drain is led from the tunnel 164 FORFARSHIRE. up through the centre of the loch, and exposes the marl to its bot- tom on each side. The whole bed consists, first, of a layer of moss, mixed with alluvial earth ; then a layer of marl ; and at the bottom, a layer of clay. The bed is wrought in a systematic man- ner ; first, the moss is removed, and thrown into a bed prepared for it ; then the marl is taken away ; and then a layer of clay is thrown upon the moss, which is thus converted into land of great fertility. The marl occupies about 100 acres, and varies from four to six feet in depth. From this bed of niarl, horns of deer and of other ani- mals are occasionally dug: In particular, there was dug up one pair of antlers with seven branches, which is preserved in the house of Logic. In the meadows of Logic the shells are abundant. When taken up they are frequently entire ; but, after a short exposure to the atmosphere, they crumble into a fine white powder, which effer- vesces with acids. This is not always, however, the' case ; for I have a quantity of shells which were collected in this locality, and, although they have been for some time in my possession, thiey still retain their form. Prevalent Distempers. — The parish may be said to be in general healthy. Asthmatical complaints, so common in some districts, are scarcely known here; the diseases to which the people are most lia- ble are inflammatory complaints, which, about twenty years ago, were often fatal, but which now, from the improved mode of treat- ment, and the free use of the lancet, in general end favourably. These complaints do not arise, so far as we can discern, froni any local cause. Scrofulous affections were once common, but the symptoms have been mitigated by the improvement which has taken place in the food of the people, their clothes, and their houses. In this last respect there is still abundance of room for improvement, especially in the town. Of the diseases once com- mon in this parish and neighbourhood, which have in a great mea- sure disappeared, by far the most remarkable is what is provincially called the leaping ague. The curious reader will find an interest- ing account of this extraordinary disease in the third volume of the Edinburgh Medical Journal, and in Dr Jamieson's Statistical Account of Tannadice. It may be said to consist in a morbid propensity to running, leaping, or tumbling, which the patient is unable to resist. During the paroxysm he has all the appearance of madness. Cold bathing is said to be the only remedy; but KIRRIEMUIR. 165 when the fit of running or leaping comes on, nothing was found tending to abate the violence of the disease, so much as allowing the patient to exercise himself till nature was exhausted. There is only one person in the parish who is known to me as at present now liable to be afBicted with this singular disease. Hydrography — Rivers. — The only streams in the parish are the South Esk, the Prosen, the Carity, and the Garie. The South EmA takes its rise round the mountains of Clova ; and after receiv- ing many tributary streams in its progress, falls into the sea at Montrose. The Prosen has its source in the north-west extre- mity of the northern division of the parish, and runs through the whole of Glenprosen. It is fed by the rivulets of Lednathy, Glenoig, Glenlogy, and many others, and falls into the South Esk, near Inverquharity. The Carity rises at Bahntore, in the parish of Lintrathen, and is lost in the South Esk, near Inverquha- rity. The Garie has its source in the Loch of Kinnordy, and falls into the Dean a little to the eastward of Glammis Castle. Before the loch was drained the Garie was a considerable stream ; but it is now so small that often in summer it is scarcely suffi- cient to turn a mill. Loch of Kinnordy. — The only lake or loch of considerable ex- tent in the parish is the Loch of Kinnordy. It was drained in 1740 and 1741 by Sir John Ogilvy, for the sake of the marl. It is about a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth, and abounded, as the Rev. George Ogilvy assures us, in pike, perch, and the large silver-coloured eeL This lake being but imperfectly drained at first, Mr Jobson, when proprietor of the lands of Balfour in Kin- goldrum, undertook to drain it completely ; but after he had ex- pended a great deal of money in the attempt, he desisted. In its present state it is both unsightly and unhealthy ; and it certainly should either be drained effectually, or restored to its pristine con- dition, by allowing the water once more to cover it. This last alternative could easily be accomplished ; and it is a matter for consideration whether the value of the water, as a reservoir for the mills on the Garie, might not compensate for the loss of the marl, the demand for which has become of late very limited. Zoology. — From the extent of the parish, and from the great va- riety of soil and climate which it embraces, it possesses perhaps as many varieties in zoology as most others in the kingdom. No per- son is better acquainted with this branch of natural history than John 166 ' FORFARSHIRE. Kiuloch, Esq. of Kilry, who has kindly communicated to me a list of birds and quadrupeds, most of which have been seen by himself. It ought to be mentioned, that a collection of wild animals and birds of the rarer sort was made by the late Mr John Bell, in conjunc- tion with Mr Kinloch, which was-presented to the University of St Andrews. I content myself with mentioning a few of the most re- markable birds. The golden eagle {FaJco Chrysojetos) — builds in Clova, but is often seen in Glenprosen. The hen-harrier or blue hawk (F. cyaneus) ; the female is called ring-tail ( F.pygargus)^ and is often mistaken for a different species. The merlin {F. JSsalon), the least of the genus Falcoj and very rare. The horned or long- eared owl often seen in the forest muir, and at Balnaboth ; the pther species are common. Lanius ezcubitorj the great butcher-bird ; this bird is rare. The raven {Corvus comix) ; the carrion crow (C corone) ; the hooded crow (C. corax) ; and the rook (C.frugilegus) ; . all common : the crows from the rookeries in the neighbour- hood, from Cortachy, from Inverquharity, from Dunnichen, from Glanmiis, and from the Bakie, have been long observed to assemble every day during the month of February within a mile of the town of Kirriemuir. The jackdaw {C. monedula) ; the magpie (C.pica); and the jay (C glandarius) : this last species seen in the forest moor. The starling {Stumtisvitlgaris); this species used formerly to build at Logie, but has not been seen for several years : I caught one on the hill of Kirriemuir. The missel-thrush ( Tur- dus viscivorus) breeds at Logie ; the field-fare ( T. pilaris) ; the redwing ( T. iliojcus) ; both migratory, but visiting us every winter, frequenting those places where wild berries are most abundant. The ring or rock-ouzel, (T. torquatvLs)^ though it breeds among the cairns of the Grampians, is sometimes to be seen in the gar- dens of the low country in autumn. The snow-bunting (Emberiza nivalis) makes its appearance in severe winters, lighting always on the ground, and never on trees. The goldfinch (Fringilla carduelis) breeds in the gardens of Kinnordy and Logie. The mountain-finch (F. montifringilla) ; this beautiful little bird visits Logie in severe winters to feed on beech-mast, its favourite food. The wood-lark (Alauda arborea) very rare. The long-tailed tit- mouse. {Pants caudatits); Mr Kinloch has seen this species at Logie, and in the forest moor, but it is not common. The sedge bird (Motacillaphragmitis) frequenting flags and reeds and sedges, and often heard, but seldom seen. The wood-wren (M. sibilatrix) KIRRIEMUIR. 167 not generally known, and not very common. The golden-crested wren {M* regulus)^ the least of all European birds ; Mr Kinloch says it is tolerably plentiful in the forest moor and Logie, and is generally to be seen on the largest trees. The land-rail or corn- crake (Rallus crex). The water-rail {R, aquaticus) is sometimes to be seen in the marshes on the estates of Kinnordy and Logie. The spotted rail (22. porzana) is very rarely seen. The king-fisher (Alcedo ispida) ; Mr Kinloch has seen several at Logie, generally in winter ; but has never heard of their breeding there. The bit- tern {Ard^a stellaris) ; Mr Kinloch has heard of their frequenting the marshes of Strathmore before they were drained; but they have not been seen for many years. The woodcock (Scolopax rusticola) is conmion. The goodwit {Limosa melanura)^ and the red-shank or pool-snipe ( Totantis cali^ dris), have both been shot at Logie and Kinnordy. The water- faen (JFkUica ckloropua) is to be found in all the marshes and ditches with reeds in them ; Mr Kinlocli has seen the coot (F* atra) in a marsh to the eastward ^f Logie. The wild swan {Anas cygmu fertut) ; the wild goose (A. anserferus) ; and the white fronted goose (A. albifrons), all visit us in the course of their migrations. The teal (A. crecca) and the wild duck {A* hoschas)^ are common in the Loch of Kinnordy. The spotted flycatcher ( Mui^ cipula ffrisola) breeds at Logie, and is not generally known. I need scarcely mention, that the different kinds of swallows, the chimney-swallow, the window-swallow, the sand-martin, and the i»wift, are conmion. The goatsucker {Caprimulffus Europaeus) has been shot at Logie and Kinnordy. The pheasant (Phasianus colehicus) is oc- ca^onally to be seen. Black-cock ( Tetrao tetrix) is conmion in Glenprosen and in the forest moor. The ptarmigan ( T. loffopus) is common in Glenprosen. The red-grouse or muirfowl {T. ScoHcus) is nowhere more abundant than in Glenprosen. The quail {Perdix cotumix) is an occasional visitant to the corn-fields in Strathmore, and was killed at Logie in the winter of 1828. Quadrupeds. — The red deer or stag {Cervits elephas) may be first mentioned. This species, though not so frequently as for- merly, b still occasionally to be seen in Glenprosen. I have often seen the roebuck (C. capreolus) in the forest moor and in the woodis of Lindertis. The wild-cat (Felis catus) is often seen in the woods of Balnaboth. The weazel {Mustela vulgaris) is often met with ; but the stoat or ermine (M, erminea) is not so common. The 168 FORFARSHIRE. stoat becomes white in winter, and is to be distinguished from the weazel by its tail being always black at the end ; it is also larger. The polecat (M. putorius) is common. The martin has been found in the woods of Balnaboth ; the other frequents the banks of the Esk, and of the bum of Ballandarg. The badger is com- mon ; one was killed some years ago in the poultry-house at Logic. There are two varieties of the fox, the large black-legged grey- hound fox, or hill fox, and the cur fox, or low country fox, which is smaller. The hare is common. The white or Alpine hare {Ijepus variablis) is often to be seen in Glenprosen ; it becomes white in winter, except the tips of the ears, which remain black. I have been told by a mole-catcher that he once found a white mole near Newtyle. The large-eared bat (Vespertilio auritus^) and the short-eared bat ( V. murinus), are equally common about old buildings; of the latter sp^'cies I counted thirty-six, which came out one after another from a crevice in the wall of the manse. Mr John Fergusson has sometimes seen the viper or adder (Coluber berusj in the hill of Gleuoig. My late friend, Mr John Bell, brought two nimble lizards (Lacerta agilis) from the moun- tains of Glenprosen, and on placing them on the carpet they show- ed that the name was well applied. Pearls. — Mr George Donn says, that the pearl mussel (Mya margaritifera) is common in the South Esk ; and Dr Jamieson as- sures us, that at one time there was a considerable fishery carried on to procure pearls. He mentions that some of them were so va- luable that L. 4 were given for them in the first market One was got as large as the ball of a pocket pistol. The principal bank where they were found was between the house of Bankhead and the house of Inshewan. About two years ago, a quantity of pearls was sold to a jeweller in this town, found in the South Esk, six miles above Cortachy. Insects, — There are several insects which have lately been ob- served, and which have proved injurious to vegetation and fruit trees. I shall mention a few of them as they occur. Curcidio pinu Though the ravages of this destructive insect have not been so great as in other places, they have been felt here. This little animal, as Mr Headrick observes, cuts holes into the tender vessels of the larch and birch, which allow much of the sap to escape. The extravasated sap dries in the air, forming small KIRRIEMUIR. 1G9 « white flakes of turpentine, resembling hoar frost, on the tender branches. C.pyri. This insect is very common on the fruit trees of the garden walls of Kinnordy, and does great damage. The gardener informs me, that in summer he is obliged to hunt them with candle light, as they do not make their appearance during the day. The caterpillar, — The larvae of various species of butterfly commit great devastation on the leaves of gooseberry bushes, white and red currant bushes, and on cabbages. I have never seen them attack the black currant. The eggs are laid with great regularity on the under part of the leaf ; and I know of no remedy so effec- tual as picking off the leaves as soon as the eggs are observed on them. Mr Donn remarks, that the larvae of Mumft/jfitmeiariui and M.JritBTe sometimes injurious; the one to wheat, ^and the other to barley. What is provincially called the wire-worm is the larva of the Tipida oleracea^ a long-legged large fly, common about meadows, and also sometimes the larvae of the T. crocata. This grub sometimes does much mischief to oats, after grass, par- ticularly old grass. The Limax dgrestis^ or what is commonly cal- led the grub, does much injury in some quarters in eating up the young wheat in spring, and also the oats in the month of May. Vari- ous plans have been tried for their destruction; but none have been effectual. The most common is to roll the ground at night with a heavy roller, which crushes them, and puts a stop to their work of destruction. Papilio napi is often destructive to the braird of turnips, and I am acquainted with no remedy. But no insect has of late years been more destructive to the fruits of the earth than Tipula tritici^ or the wheat-fly, — ^an account of which is to be found in the Transactions of the Linnean Society by the Rev. Mr Kirby, and in the 8th Number of the Quarterly Journal of Agriculture by Mr Archibald Gorrie. This last gentleman es- timates the loss sustained by the farming interest in the carse and braes of Gowrie to exceed L. 90,000 Sterling. Like others of the insect tribe, the wheat-fly in winter is in a state of larva; and about the beginning of June, having assumed the shape of flies, they begin to appear in those fields where wheat has been grow- ing during the preceding year. When the wheat comes into ear, the fliies are led to it ; but if they arrive at a field of wheat before it is in ear, they conceal themselves among the foliage within a foot of the ground, and as soon as any of the ears have appeared with one side out of the sheath, the female flies ascend to the ears. 170 F0RFARSH1H£. and commence laying their eggs. In the years 1827, 182d, and 1829, in shedding aside the wheat at the flowering season, the flies were to be seen in myriads. In stormy and windy weather, they are so slender that they are not able to rise and sit upon the ear to lay their ^gs; but in calm weathor, at this critical season, they accomplish this with ^ase. The efiect is the almost total ruin of the crop ; for, from the moment the eggs are thus laid, vegetation ceases^ the anthers do not expand, and the filaments that support them are glued to the chafil The stigma continues to appear fresh, and the anthers retain their fresh colour till with- in nine days from the eggs being laid; when the caterpillars ap- pear fully formed, and of a white colour, which ultimately turns to a bright sulphur ; they thus devour the embryo grain. The flies do not live more than three days after they have laid their eggs. I know of no effectual remedy to arrest the progress of this destructive insect It is in vaiif to expect that it can be extirpated by ex- posure to frost. Mr Gorrie is of opinion, however, that, having succeeded in burying other caterpillars of large growth, the wheat-fly maggot might be also kept under. This, says he, could be easily performed, if^ in ploughing the wheat stubbles, a scarifier or skinmier were fixed on the beam before the coulter, of such construction as would cut and lay about an inch of the sur- face in the bottom of the furrow. If this were done correctly, and the subsequent ploughing kept so shallow as' not to touch the bu- ried surface, it is not likely that the maggots could seek their way up through the superincumbent soil. It is plain that, in this case, grass seeds are not to be sown with the wheat ; but some other crop must in the meantime be substituted. If this plan do not succeed, farmers for a few years ought to abandon the raising of wheat, and turn their attention to some other crop not liable to be injured. * . Botany — Forests and Plantations. — The forest of Plater or Pla- tane lies in the eastern part of the parish ; and the tradition is, that, from the hill of Kirremuir to the hill of Finhaven, the wood at one time was so thick that the wild cat could leap from one tree to another between the two places. This wood consisted of oak, birch, and other trees, which no doubt had witnessed the rites of the Druids ; * In the original MS. preserved among the Archives of the Church, there is added a list of a small number of new or rare insects, which have been taken at Kinnordy, or in some part of the parish of Kirremuir within the last four years. They have been attentively examined by Mr Curtis, and some of them are described in his Bri- tish Entomology. There is also an elaborate article on the botany of the parish. 3 KIRRIEMUIR. 171 and Mr George Ogilvy remarks, that, in his time, the roots of them were dug up in the moor by people casting peat and turf. This wood belonged of old to the Earls of Crawford, who set a fbrester o?er it. It afterwards belonged to the Earl of Strathmore, one of whose titles was Heritable Forester of the Forest of Plater. It now belongs to Charles Lyell, Esq. of Kinnordy. One of the inia^'i«« of war, which was bequeathed by King Robert Bruce as a legacy to his countrymen, was " Let wood for walls be." There is a tradition, accordingly, (and it is countenanced by Fordoun,) that Sir Andrew Moray, the friend of Wallace, and the Regent of Scotland, on a memorable occasion, having been pressed by the English, had recourse to the forest of Plater, where he concealed himself for the winter, and from which he issued and marched straight to Panmure, when a bloody battle was fought, and when a distinguished victory was obtained, — 4000 men, among whom was Lord Henry Mountfort, having been left dead on the spot. ♦ The natural timber in the parish is now very limited in quantity, being confined chiefly to birch, alder, hazel, black-thorn, and willows, on the sides of the waters at the northern extremity of the parish, and in Glenprosen. On dry ground, though bare, there is no tree that thrives better than the larch ; but for wet land the Scotch fir is to be preferred. The best situations for the growth of most kinds of trees are found by experience to be the steep banks of dens, and the sloping sides of hills. It has been remarked, that oak thrives better than any other kind of hard-wood in inferior soils. In low moors, where the soil is thin, and the subsoil retentive, trees seldom come to any considerable size ; but when the subsoil is porous the case is otherwise. Mr Chalmers, who has had great experience as a fo- rester, having planted nearly 1000 acres on the estate of Kinnordy, is an advocate for thin planting, — a practice which he justifies by many arguments. There are around Inverquharity Castle a few old chestnut trees, not so remarkable for their size as for their age. There are here also many very fine ash-trees, some of which are supposed to contain upwards of 100 cubic feet of wood of the best quality. I measured an ash-tree, which is upwards of 13 feet in circumference, and an elm, which is nearly 12 feet. But the largest trees in the parish arc to be found around the mansion- house of Logie. The periphery of the great ash-tree is nearly * On the question of what has become of the oaks of the forest of Plater, the writer bcgt to refer to Uie Notes to Mr Tyt]er*s History of Scotland, where they will find the subject discussed in a satisfactory manner. 172 FORFARSHIRE. 21 feet There are several others of considerable size. There are also a great many fine beeches, many of which are from 12 to 14 feet in circumference. At Kinnordy there is a considerable variety of all the different ornamental kinds of wood. At Balna- both the plantations are chiefly of Scotch fir, with a few larch ; both are of excellent quality, particularly the former. The late Earl Walter, who planted them, very properly took the precaution of sending to the Mar forests for his plants. 11. — Civil History. Accounts of the Parish, — There is an account of this parish ex- tant in manuscript, drawn up in 1 748 by the late Rev. George Ogilvy. It embraces the history of Christianity, from its first in- troduction into Scotland ; but it has an especial reference to the ec- clesiastical state of Kirriemuir, of which he was long the respect- able minister. This history has been transcribed into the book which is kept for the registration of baptisms, and is of consider- able value. As the validity of any but Episcopal ordination was keenly contested at the time when Mr Ogilvy lived, the principal object which he seems to have had in view was to prove, by a refe- rence to acknowledged facts, that our first Protestant ministers had no other but Presbyterian ordination. In 1825, the present incumbent published " Statements rela- tive to the Pauperism of Kirriemuir." * Historical Events. — Tradition furnishes us with few particulars respecting the early history of Kirriemuir. There can be no doubt that the inhabitants of this and of the neighbouring parishes zeal- ously attached to the Ogilvies, shared in their fortunes, shedding their blood as often as it was required in their service. When Donald, the Lord of the Isles, who ranked himself among the al- lies of England, and made war and peace as an independent prince, advanced in 1411 to prosecute his claims to the earldom of Ross, he was opposed by Lord Ogilvy, the sheriff of Angus, who brought up his own martial clan, some of whom were no doubt inhabitants of Kirriemuir, and at Harlaw, along with the powerful Earl of Mar and others, gained the victory which decided, as Sir Walter Scott observes, the superiority of the more civilized regions of Scotland over those inhabited by the Celtic tribes. In the famous battle between the Ogilvys and Lindsays, which * For an account of the many interesting localities of the parish, see the original MS. KIRRIEMUIR. 173 • was fought in 1447, no fewer than 500 Ogilvys fell, which must haye been a severe stroke to Kirriemuir. The Catherines. — At no very remote period it was not accounted dishonourable for polite clans to commit depredations on each other. It was usual for the Highlanders beyond the Grampians to put themselves under the command of some warlike chieftain, to form themselves into bands of Catherines, as they were called, and to levy from all the farmers in their neighbourhood a contribution, under the name of black-mail, to secure their forbearance or pro- tection. The fine country of Strathmore could not escape their depredations, and many a tale is told of their incursions. We are informed, that, even so early as 1392, three chiefs of the name of Donnechy, instigated or commanded by Duncan Stewart, a natural son of the turbulent Earl of Buchan, came down to ravage this district ; and that a bloody battle took place in the Stormonth, in which Sir John Ogilvy, of this parish, was slain, with many of his followers. Feud between Forfar and Kirriemuir. — At one time feuds were not uncommon between rival towns, as well as between rival fami- lies. The feud between Perth and Dundee is alluded to by Dr Small in his Statistical Account of the latter of these towns. There was one equally bitter, though not equally important, be- tween the royal burgh of Forfar and the baronial burgh of Kirrie- muir. The origin of this feud was trifling, — a dispute respecting a piece of ground, called the Muir Moss, which was claimed by both parishes, but which was of little value to either. The con- test was exceedingly violent. There is a humorous story connect- ed with, this feud, which is found recorded in the brief biographi- cal notice of Drummond the poet, the friend of Johnson and Shakspeare, prefixed to the folio edition of his works. * * In the year 1645, when the plague was raging in Scotland, this eminent person came accidentally'to Forfar, but was not allowed to enter any house, or to get lodg- ing in the town ; which forced him, though it was very late, to direct his course to Kirriemuir, where he was well received and kindly entertained. Being informed of the feud which subsisted between the two towns respecting the Muir moss, he wrote a letter to the Provost of For&r, to be communicated to the town-council in haste. It was imagined that this letter came from the Estates, then sitting at St Andrews. The common council was summoned with all expedition, and the minister was sent for to assist them with his advice, and the letter was opened in a solemn manner. It con- tained the following lines : The Kirriemorians and Forfarians met at Muir moss. The Kirriemorians beat the Forfarians back to the Cross ; Sutors ye are, and sutors ye'll be, Fye upon Forfar, Kirriemuir bears the gree. Some anecdotes connected with the llebellion of 1715 and 1745, also with the 174 FORFARSHIRE. Eminent Persons — FamilyofOgilvy of Airly. — The noble family of Airly is descended from Gilbert, a near relation of Gilchrist, Earl of Angus, a gentleman of high distinction in the reign of William the Lion, who succeeded to the crown of Scotland in 1165. He ob- tained from that prince a charter to the lands of Powrie, Ogilvy, and Lintrathen ; and he took the name, Ogilvy, from his barony, as was customary in these days. Sir James Ogilvy was so highly es- teemed by King James IV. and his court, that he was created a peer by the title of Lord Ogilvy of Airly, and sat in his Parlia- ment in 1491. The eighth Lord Ogilvy, from his great merit and eminent services done to King Charles L, and for the great loyalty and fideUty of his ancestors, was farther dignified with the title of Earl of Airly in 1639. David, the then Earl of Airly, had two sons, James and John ; of whom James, the eldest son, Lord Ogilvy, having engaged in the rebellion of 1715, was attainted of high trea- son ; but his estate was saved by being in his father's person, who was then alive. He was afterwards pardoned ; but died without issue. He was succeeded by his brother John, the fourth Earl of Airly. His son. Lord Ogilvy, having engaged in the rebellion of 1745, was attainted of high treason, and escaped into France, where he had the command of a Scotch regiment called Ogilvy 's Regiment. The title was for some time in abeyance ; but was re- stored in 1826 to David, the present Earl, to the satisfaction of the whole county, and the enthusiastic joy of Kirriemuir and its neighbourhood. • This family has produced many individuals, no less eminent for their patriotism than for their loyalty to their sovereigns ; of these none were so distinguished as the first Earl and his two gallant sons. It was against this noble family that the Marquis of Ar- gyle had orders to proceed ; and 5000 men were levied for that purpose. Airly, in possession of Lord Ogilvy, and-Forthar, their two principal seats, were destroyed, and the tenantry ingloriously plundered of their com and cattle. Though the Marquis was ap- parently only the instrument, he was the secret mover of this se- vere measure, — a feud between the family of Campbell and Ogilvy having subsisted for several centuries. It was in commemoration of this event that the popular song of the " Bonny House of Air- lie" is said to have been written ; Argyle himself, according to the comic event, called the ** Battle of Cloisterbank,** in 1782y will be found iu the ori- ginal MS. KllUUEMUlR. 175 traditioiiy having taken a hammer, and assisted in the demolition of the doorways and hewing of the stone-work till he was overcome with fatigue. - The Earl of Airly, now referred to, was eminent as a soldier, and distinguished himself in Montrose's campaigns, in particular at the battle of Kilsyth. Ninuno, in his History of Stirlingshire, informs us, that a body of 1000 Highlanders in Montrose's army, without orders, marched up the hill to attack the enemy. That consummate general sent a strong detachment, under the command of the Earl of Airly, to their assistance, whose arrival not only preserved this resolute corps from being overpowered by a superior force, with which they were going to engage, but turned the balance against their anta- gonists, who were obliged to retreat. This was the most complete victory which Montrose ever gained. The loss on his side was small,— only seven or eight persons having been slain, three of whom were named Ogilvy, being relations of the noble family of Airly. Family of Ogilvy of Inverquharity. — This family, according to Douglas, traces its origin to the third son of the deceased Walter Ogilvy of Auchterhouse, by name Sir John, who received from his brother the lands and barony of Inverquharity in 1420. This fa- mily was ever held in the highest estimation,— its members hold- ing the highest civil and military appointments. It is not always easy, however, to distinguish their exploits from those of the house of Airly, to which they were allied. Alexander, second son of Sir John, was a youth of extraordinary parts, according to Guthrie in his Memoirs of Montrose, — valiant above his age, and of a fervent and daring spirit. He joined that distinguished war- rior ; was taken prisoner in the battle of Philiphaugh ; and, for his firm adherence to the Royal cause, was executed at Glasgow in the flower of his age, in 1646. The song, " It was a' for our rightful King," is said to have been the production of Captain Ogilvy, son of Sir David Ogilvy of Inverquharity. He was along with King James at the battle of the Boyne, and afterwards fell in an engagement on the Rhine. It is said that he was one of the hundred gentlemen who volunteered to attend their royal master in his exile. The present representative of this ancient family is Sir John Ogilvy, an ofiScer in the Guards. Family ofKinloch. — This family is very ancient, and may be traced to the twelfth, if not the ninth century. There is a charter without date to Sir John de Kinloch, which was confirmed by King 176 FORFARSHIRE. William. This family also has produced many individuals emi- nent for their literature, their patriotism, and their loyalty ; in par- ticular David, bom in 1560, and educated a physician, who travel- led much in foreign parts, and became eminent in his profession. He was some time confined in the Inquisition in Spain ; but from this he was at last liberated, on performing an extraordinary cure upon the Inquisitor General, when given over by his physicians. He after- wards returned to this country, and having acquired considerable wealth by the most honourable means, he purchased lands, which were confirmed to him by a charter from James VI. in 1616. He was a gentlemaix of great genius and learning, and wrote several works on physic. Dr Small, in his Statistical Account of Dundee, men- tions him as physician to James VI., and as author of some poems in the Latin language of great eloquence and beauty, and which are to be found in the collection of the Poetae Scotigeni. There is a portrait of this eminent person in the house of Logic, the re- sidence of the family. The baronetcy of the family was forfeited in 1746. John Kinloch, Esq. of Kilry, an officer in the Guards, is the legal heir to this honour, as being the lineal descendant and representative of James Kinloch, progenitor of the Kinlochs of Kilry, who was second son of James Kinloch of Aberbrothy, and father of Sir David Kinloch, created a baronet by King James VII., but whose family in that line has become extinct Land-oioners. — The chief of these, with their valued rents, as recorded in the valuation roll published by the Michaelmas Court of the county, 1822, are the following. Charles Lyelly Esq. of Kinnordy, John Kinloch, Esq. and feuars, G. L. Meason, Esq.- of Lindertis, The Hon. Colonel OgUvy of Clova, and feuars, Francis Graham, Esq. of Morphie, Miss II. Brown of Glasswell, John Adamson, Esq. of Hillhcad, and feuars, Parochial Registers^ — The parochial registers are of a late date. It appears that they were taken possession of in 1713, by the Rev. James Rait, and were never afterwards recovered. The registers of marriages, births, and deaths, which have been kept since 1713, are as correct as most others, but far from being in a satisfactory state. Antiquities — Rocking-stones. — Dr Smith, in his History of the Druids, says, that the Highlanders called the rocking-stones " Clacha Breath^'' that is, the stones of judgment ; but Mr Hud- L.d568 13 6 1150 1027 533 6 8 426 13 4 390 380 KIRRIEMUIR. 177 dleBtODey in his learned notes to his edition of Toland, objects to UuB appellation, in as much as no two rocking-stones are to be found together. It is singular, however, that there are two a little to the north-west of the hill of Kirriemuir, within a few yards of each other. The one of them is a block of whinstone, nearly oval, and is three feet three inches in height, nine feet in length, and four leet ten inches in breadth. The other, of Lintrathen porphyry, is two feet in height, eight feet in length, and five feet in breadth. The purpose for which these stones were erected is involved in mystery. Siandinff'Sianes. — Of these, the most early of all monuments, there are several in Kirriemuir, none of which have inscriptions of any kind* The most remarkable in this parish is the ^^ Standing-stone" in the hill of Kirriemuir, which has been evidently at some period split into two ; one part of it is still standing, the other is lying. The standing part is nine feet in height above the surface of the ground. At the base it is six feet and six inches in breadth, and at the top it is four feet and six inches ; it cannot be less than three or four feet in the ground ; and in the memory of man it tapered towards the top, but the projecting part has been knocked off. The lying part of the stone is twelve feet and nine inches in length. Tra- dition is silent as to the purpose for which it was erected.* Caves. — Tacitus observes, in his account of the manners of the Grermans, that it was their custom to dig caves in the earth, where they laid up their grain and lived in winter ; and that in these caves they would find shelter from their enemies. Of such caves several have been discovered in Kirriemuir. The most remarkable is the ** Weems Hole," on the top of the hill of the Meams, — ^built, as the Rev. George Ogilvy describes, with stone, and covered above with large unpolished stones about six feet wide. The entry lies towards the south ; and its course may be traced the length of sixty or seventy yards. The stones now covering the cave are over- grown with earth, and the total length of it is not perceptible. I have conversed with a person who was present at the opening of this cave, and who informs me, that a great many human bones, with some querns and other curiosities, were found in it The cave at Auchlishie, the " Weems Park," is another of these subterranean re- cesses; it was opened by the late Mr Wilkie of Auchlishie, when a currach and some querns were discovered. * Three other Rtanding-stoncs, and a variety of tumuli in tlic paritih, arc described in the original MS. FORFAR. M >. fc 178 FORFARSHIRE. Currachs. — I have just mentioned that a currach, or boat, was found in the cave of Auchlishie ; but as the proprietor, who would have preserved it, did not reside on his estate at the time, it was cut up for firewood by his farm-servants. In the summer of 1820, a canoe was found jn the peat of the loch of Kinnordy, — one extre- mity being scarcely below the surface.* This relict is not without its value to the geologist, as well as to the antiquarian, since it shows that some part even of the peat, which overlies all the marl, is of a date anterior to the historical records of the country.f It is the general opinion, that Christianity was early introduced into this parish ; but no tradition respecting the precise time lias come down to us. The parish abounds with the ruins of religious ho uses. Modem Buildings. — In 1815, the Trades-hall was built, the pro- perty of the different friendly societies of the town ; the lower part is let for shops, and the upper, a hall of considerable size, is re- served for the meetings of the societies and for other purposes. % Kinnordy is the residence of Charles Lyell, Esq. The garden is enriched by many rare plants ; and there is a museum, consisting of minerals, bones of animals, and antiquities ; there is also a col- lection of insects. Balnaboth, in the upper part of the parish, is the residence of the Honourable Colonel Ogilvy of Clova, the brother of the Earl of Airly. Logic is the residence of John Kinloch, Esq. of Kilry. The mansion-house of Balinshoe, the residence of the late Mr Fletcher, now in a ruinous state, appears to have been originally built without reference to any settled plan. Ballandarg is the seat of Francis Graham, Esq. of MoqAie, a member of the ancient family of Graham ; which, as Sir Walter Scott says, can boast of as great historical renown as any in Scot- land. To this family belonged Sir John the Graham, the friend of Wallace, who fell in the field of Falkirk ; the Marquis of Mon- • For an accurate description and figure of the canoe, the reader is referred to Mr LyelVs paper on a recent formation of fresh water limestone. f The original MS. contains an account of some querns, celts, or battle-axes, and arrow-heads found in the parish : also of the remains of the religious houses of Kil- hill, Chapelton, &c. There is also in the original MS. under this head, a notice of some remains of a Roman road, with an interesting discussion on the question, whether the great battle betwixt Agricola and the aboriginal inhabitants was fought in this parish. In the original MS. will be found also a lengthened description of the castle of In- Terquharity, with an elegant drawing. I It has lately been converted inlo a chapel for the Relief congregation. KIRRIEMUIR. 179 trose, in whom De Retz saw realized the abstract idea of the heroes of antiquity ; and Viscount Dundee, who fell in the arms of Tictory, although the severity of his temper, and the rigour with which he executed the oppressive mandates of the princes whom he served, can never be justified or palliated. Shielhill, on the banks of the South Esk, the property of Charles Lyell, Esq. of Kinnordy, enjoys perhaps the finest situa- tion inthe parish. * III. — Population. In 1801, the population, by the census, amounted to - 4421 1811, - - - - - 4791 1821, . - . - . 5036 1881, ----- 6425 The increase of population is supposed to be owing to the policy which has of late prevailed, of converting small farms into large ones. The surplus population of country parishes being obliged in consequence to congregate in towns, Kirriemuir has receiv- ed its full share of this emigration, from the increased facility for building, occasioned by the division of a commonty long in dispute, and the prospect of employment which the thriving state of the linen manufacture held out. The number of the population re- siding in the town, including the suburbs, is 4014 ; residing in the villages of Marytown and Ellenertown, 236 ; and residing in the country^ 2125. 1. Number of families hi the parish, .... 1526 of fimiilics chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 182 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, and handicraft, 894 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 53 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, • 68 3. The average number of births yearly for the last 7 years, - . 160 of deaths, - - - . . 86 of marriages, - • - - 50 4. Tlic number of persons at present under 15 years of age is - . 2382 upwards of 70, - - -. 185 Resident Heritors. — The family of the Honourable Colonel Ogilvy of 'Clova, that of Charles Lyell, Esq. of Kinnordy, and that of Mrs Kinloch, relict of Colonel Thomas Kinloch of Kilry, reside in the parish. Language^ Character^ Sfc. of the People. — It has been remarked, * See original MS. for a detail of the various superstitions still prevailing in this, as in other parishes of Scotland, — in particular those of borrowing days, halloween, new moon, fairies^ &c. 180 FORFARSHIRE. that the people of Angus, as well as that of Aberdeen and the Mearns, are in many respects different from the rest of the Scottish nation. These counties having been the chief part of the Pictish kingdom, it is probable that they retain the greatest share of the characteristics of that peculiar people ; — ^having been less subject to the invasion of the English, but more frequently intruded upon by the adventurers of the north of Europe than the population of the southern lowlands. The language of the people, accordingly, is in many respects different from that which is current in the more southern districts of Scotland. Dr Jamieson, who lived long in this neighbourhood, remarks, in his introduction to his Scottish Dictionary, that the language of his country is spoken here in greater purity and more copiously than in any part of Scotland with which he was acquainted. His words are, " Having resided for many years in the county of Angus, where the old Scottish is spoken with as great purity as any where in Great Britain, I col- lected a vast number of words unknown in the southern and west- em dialects of Scotland. Many of these I found the classical terms in the language of Iceland, Sweden, and Denmark." It was here, accordingly, that he formed the resolution of writing a dic- tionary of the Scottish language. I have much pleasure in inserting the character of the parishion- ers, as given by the Rev. George Ogilvy in 1784: " They are not at all defective in Christian knowledge ; they can almost all of them read and write; among the tradesmen and trading-men there are not a few abundantly knowing. They attend ordinances on the Lord's day exceeding well ; live generally in good neighbourhood with one another, and carry kindly and respectfully enough to their minister. They were never fond of the English service-book and ceremonies ; but much better pleased with the worship of the Es- tablished Church." * Mr Alexander Peat, assistant to the Rev. Thomas Ogilvy, adds, " This account will in a great measure apply to the present state of the parish (1801). The people are not behind their neighbours in knowledge ; in their attendance on public ordinances they are in general very regular ; the higher ranks are regular in their at- tendance on worship in the places of meeting of their own persua- sion." It is believed that when Mr Ogilvy wrote, there was no " There are many traditions that seem to indicate a great rdughness of manners in the inhabitants of this and the adjoining parishes. See original MS. 3 KIRRIEMUIR. 18 L dissenting meeting in the town, except a Scots Episcopalian one ; since then the people have had their share of those jarrings and unchristian resentments which always accompany the introduction of new opinions. The Dissenters, who have been some time esta- blished here, live on a friendly footing with their neighbours ; and the members of the Established Church, the Episcopalians, and Seoeders, do not look upon one another as of different species, be- cause they happen to differ in opinion. I may add, that while ignorance and vice still abound, my parishioners are in general remarkably well-informed; and many of them are distinguished for the benevolence of their dispositions, their piety towards God, and the strictest integrity, sobriety, and temperance. For many years there has scarcely been a prosecution for poaching in game, or in the salmon fishing in the Esk. Smuggling has entirely dis- appeared. IV. — Industry. , Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of acres stand- ard imperial measure in the lower division of the parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, according to Mr Blackadder, is 11,000; and in the higher division there are of arable intersected with meadow and fine pasture, 2000 acres. The number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which re- main constantly waste, or in pasture, in the lower part of the pa- rish, is 2500, and in the higher part of the parish 15,500. The number of acres that might with a profitable application of capital be added to the cultivated land of the parish is extremely small. There is no part of the parish in a state of undivided common. In the lower division of the parish there are 2000 imperial acres in plantations, and in the higher there are 500. The waste sur- face of roads, houses, water, 8cc. may be estimated at 500 imperial acres. Rent of Land. — Mr Blackadder is of opinion that the average rent of arable land in the parish cannot be stated at less than L. 1 Sterhng the imperial acre. The average rent of grazing an ox three years old on fine pasture is L. 3; a milch cow, L. 3, 15s. ; and a ewe and Iamb, 12s. 6d. Hudnmdry. — It may be remarked, that there is in general a spi- rit of improvement apparent through the whole parish, and that the land is drained and cultivated according to the most approved me- thods. 182 FORFARSHIRE. Irrigation is practised in several parts of the parish, but espe- cially at Logie, the residence of John Kinloch, Esq. of Kilry. The enclosures are flooded by the Garie in November, and are continued so till the beginning of April. These enclo- sures have been in grass since 1770; and in consequence of the above practice, says the Rev. Thomas Ogilvy in 1792, " they are now the earliest and best grass fields in the country, and there is not perhaps any in Scotland superior to them. Before the above period," continues he, " they let at from 10s. to 12s. the Scotch acre, but last season from 60s. to 90s. per acre." Mr Peat adds, that in 1801 the rent had increased to L.5 Sterling per acre. The first six or seven years of watering promised no great advan- tage, but perseverance has increased their value ten times, and that, too, at a trifling expense. In 1830, these fields, after being fifty years in grass, were let for a course of cropping, some of them as high as L. 9, 5s. per Scotch acre. Last season was wet, but some of the fields produced 14 bolls of 6 bushels per acre. The advantage of irrigation is thus demonstrated not only in improving the grass, but also in ameliorating the soil. I only add, farther, that grass fostered by irrigation is found to be better adapted for cattle than for sheep. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. The state of farm-houses is in general good. A considerable part of the parish is enclosed ; partly with hedges, but chiefly with stone walls. The greater part of the parish is in the hands of industrious tenants, who follow the most approved methods of husbandry. Produce, — The average gross amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish may be as follows : 1518 acres of turnips at L.6 per acre, - - L. 9108 539 acres of potatoes at L. 8 per acre> - - - 4112 250 acres of clean fallow, .... 2907 acres of new grass at L. 3, 10s. per acre, 2914 acres of two and three year old grass at L. 1, 10s. per acre, 31 14 acres of oats at five bolls per acre, ... 1864 acres of barley at five bolls per acre, 150 acres of wheat at seven bolls of four busheb per acre, 345 acres of Scotch bear at five bolls per acre, Produce of gardens and orchards, after deducting seed and labour. Produce of sale of wood after serving the state. Produce of moss, marl, and quarries, ... L. 56,615 10 Manufactures. — The only manufacture in the parish is that of 8074 10 - 4371 15.570 11,650 1575 1725 100 330 KIRRIEMUIR. 183 brown linen, introduced into the country after the Rebellion in 1745. It is supposed that not fewer than 3000 individuals are engaged in it, and that the number of webs woven may be 52,000 per an- num, containing 6,760,000 yards. This trade has increased three- fold since the beginning of the centurj. From November 1798 to November 1799, there were stamped 1,814,874 yards, and from Noyember 1799 to November 1800, 1,846,516 yards. There is no peculiarity in the mode of conducting this manufacture ; the manufacturers being all practical tradesmen, are well qualified to judge of the work when executed ; and the fabrics being few in number, the work is both well and expeditiously done. This ma- nufacture, when flourishing, has certainly afforded a fair remune- ration and support to those engaged in it, but for several years past it has not done so to those who have pursued it on a small scale. V. — Parochial Economy. Market- Town. — The only market-town is Kirriemuir; from which the parish takes its name. It is a burgh of royalty of great anti- quity, whose baron, the Lord Douglas, the representative of a fa- mily long the most powerful in Scotland, enjoys a fixed jurisdic- tion, both civil and criminal, which he may exercise by himself or his deputy. Before the abolition of hereditary jurisdiction in Scotland, his powers were exceedingly extensive, in virtue of which, " per fossam et furcam," that is, drowning in a ditch or pool, or by suspending on a gallows, he could punish all per- sons guilty of certain crimes, from the Law of Dundee to the Grampian mountains. If he imposed fines on criminals, he was allowed to appropriate them to himself. Mr Wood is said to have been the last deputy who exercised the power of life and death. For some goods stolen, he condemned and executed two individuals. Walker and Rob by name, and seized on their pro- perty ; and it is generally said, that avarice influenced him as much as a sense of justice. The functionaries who succeeded Mr Wood seem to have conducted themselves with propriety, — the most of them keeping " brewseats ;" and, as there is " more law in good ale than in any in Westminster-hall," the lieges were accustomed, under their auspices, to make up their disputes under a quaich of their favourite beverage. Since 1748, the bailie can judge in no civil actions where the debt or damage exceeds forty shillings Ster- ling; and in cases of assault, battery, and minor offences, he can impose a fine not exceeding twenty shillings Sterling, or set the de- 184 FORFARSHIRE. linquent in the stocks in the day time, for not more than three hours. The fine is to be levied by poinding the delinquent's goods, and in default of these, by imprisonment for a period not exceeding one month. The restrictions lying upon the baron are now so heavy, that Mr Erskine says, they amount nearly to a prohibition of the criminal part of his jurisdiction. The town of Kirriemuir stands in a healthy and pleasant situa- tion, partly on a flat, and partly on an inclined plane, about 400 feet above the level of the sea. The form of the town may be fanci- ed to resemble an anchor. The view from the lower part of it is bounded by the southern brow of the Den ; from the higher part is seen nearly the whole extent of the magnificent valley of Strath- more. But the most extensive view in the parish is from the hill of Kirriemuir,— the summit of which is a place of considerable ex- tent, terminated by a bold and precipitous front on the south, but descending in every other direction with a gentle inclination. Here the spectator has only to turn his eyes towards the east where the hills of the Mearns present themselves washed by the German ocean ; from the top of which hills blazed of old " the baleful fire," warning the inhabitants of the district of the approach of danger. In this direction, too, are seen the picturesque heights of Fin- haven, which resemble vast undulations. When satisfied with this part of the prospect, the spectator may turn his eyes to the north, where a wilder scenery presents itself, — a sea of hills, around whose sununits ^^ the stormy mist gathers," reach- ing the confines of dark Lochnagar " with its steep frowning glories." From these hills the Prosen and the Esk, and other mountain-streams, come down with " thundering din." Towards the west, are the lofty mountains of Perthshire with " Birnam wood," and ^^ high Dunsinnan hill," rich with classical associations, and hal- lowed by the footsteps of the bard of Avon. Towards the south, on either hand, as far as the eye can reach, the glorious valley of Strathmore presents itself, with its hundred towns, its churches, castles, villas, plantations, lakes, and streams, bounded by the Sidlaws, whose sides are either clothed with woods, or enriched with luxuriant crops of corn ; in shorty there is nothing wanting to render the scenery unrivalled, but a huge arm of the sea or a mighty river, rolUng its current along the strath. The population of Kirriemuir, including the suburbs, amounts to 4014; and no town in the county has a better weekly market. It is the seat of a Justice of Peace Court for the district, includ- KIRRIEMUIR. 185 ing the parishes of Glenisla, Lintrathen, Airly, Kingoldrum, Cor- tachy, Tannadice, and Oathlaw : and the peace of the town is kept by a nomerous constabulary. Several years ago, G. L. Meason, Esq. of Lindertis feued two parts of his property, which have now swelled into villages, — Ihe one, Marytown, containing 136 inhabitants ; and the other, Elli- norton, the inhabitants of which amount to 108. Means of Communication. — The north mail arrives at Kirrie- muir every morning. About fifty years ago, the revenue from the post-office amounted in one year, after paying the necessary ex- pense, to no more than 8d. ; it now amounts to L. 360 per an- num. lliere is only one turnpike-road at present in the parish, and it does not extend to more than three miles. The most import- ant bridge is at Shielhill, over the Esk. The bridge over the Pro- sen was widened lately at the sole expense of the Earl of Airly. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is conveniently situated for the lower part of the parish ; and no part of the population of this district is distant above three or four miles from it. The pa- rish church was built in 1787, and is in an excellent state of re- pair. It is seated for 1260. There are no free sittings. The manse was built in 1774, but so insufficiently, that it was repaired in 1787. It was again repaired in 1802. This year it will undergo a thorough repair. The glebe consists of four acres and one rood. The minister is allowed L. 20 Scots, in lieu of a grass glebe. The teinds of the parish were valued in 1634. The stipend, as modified in 1812 by the court of teinds, amounts to 191 bolls of grain, — two-thirds meal and one-third barley, — and L. 72 Sterling, inculding L.8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. There are no chapels of ease attached to the Established Church ; but there is a missionary minister on the Royal Bounty, who officiates alternately in Clova, one of the united parishes of Clova and Cor- tachy, and in GlenprosJBn, connected with Kirriemuir. There is one meeting-house in connection with the Original Constitutional Synod; another in connection with the United Secession Church; and a third in connection with the Relief. There is also a small congregation of Independents, who meet in the afternoon of the Lord's day for worship and mutual edification. The ministers are respectably supported by the contributions of their hearers. The 186 FORFARSHIRE. • Rev. Mr Aitken, and his colleague, the Rev. Mr Anderson, have each L. 60 per annum. There is also an Episcopalian chapel. The great body of the people, however, is attached to the Esta- bUshed Church, and the number of Dissenters and Episcopalians caonot be estimated at more than one-seventh part of the population. About 300 (1831) attend the meeting in connection with the Ori- ginal Constitutional Synod, 200 of whom are conununicants; fully more attend the meeting in connection with the United Secession church ; 220 are communicants, 13 of whom come from adjoining parishes. The congregation in connection with the Relief is only forming, and the communicants (1831) are not above 40. There are now upwards of 200 communicants. The Independents consist only of a few families. The Episcopalians are not numerous. Divine service at the Established Church, and, I understand, also at the several chapels, is generally well attended. The com- municants in connection with the Established Church are not fewer than 2500. In 1830, the number of actual communicants was 2021, and in the chapel at Glenprosen, 189; in all, 2210. Societies for Religious Purposes. — There are several societies for religious purposes established in the parish. 1. Bible Society, auxi- liary to the Bible Society of Edinburgh ; 2. Missionary Society, auxiliary to the Missionary Society of Edinburgh ; 3. Ladies' So- ciety for promoting the Education of Females in India ; 4. Sabbath School Society. Probable average amount of the yearly contribu- tions to the societies: — The Bible society was instituted in 1821, since which, L. 122, 8s. Id. have been collected ; or on an ave- rage, L. 12, 4s. 9Jd. per annum; the Missionary society was insti- tuted in 1821, since which, L. 368, 2s. 7d. have been collected ; or on an average, L. 36, 16s. 3d. per annum ; the Ladies' society was instituted in 1823, since which, L. 45 have been collected ; on an average L. 5, 12s. 6d. per annum ; Sabbath School society was instituted in 1817, since which, L. 18 per annum have been col- lected. The probable annual amount of church collections for religious purposes, exclusive of what is collected for the poor, is about L. 14. Education, — The total number of schools in the parish (1831) is 16, — 1 parochial school, 2 endowed schools, 12 unendowed schools, and one supported by subscription of individuals. The Greek, Latin, and French languages, with practical mathematics and geo- graphy, are taught in the parochial school, where the average num- 4 KIRRIEMUIR. 187 ber of scholars is 200. One teacher has the charge of the clas- sical department, another of the commercial, and a third of the English. Heimf$ Mortification. — Mr Henry of Kensington, a native of Kirriemuir, bequeathed in trust the sum of L. 1400 to the mini- ster and elders ; the interest of L. 1200 to be laid out in educat- ing and furnishing with school-books, pens, ink, and paper, twelve boys, or as many more as the money would educate ; and the inte- rest of the remaining L. 200 to be paid to the parochial school- master for keeping the accounts. In consequence of some diffi- culties which had arisen respecting some part of Mr Henry*s pro- perty, the whole matter came before the Lord Chancellor, who settled it in the following manner : The capital having been placed in the funds at an advantageous time, his Lordship found to be L.2192, 3s. 6d. 3 per cent with L.394, 12s. SterUng of accu- mulated interest: he determined L. 50 Sterling of this interest to purchase ground for building a school-house, and L. 100 Sterling to be expended on the building ; the interest of L. 200 Sterling was allotted to the schoolmaster, and the interest of the remaining sum was to be applied to the education of as many boys at the pa- rochial school as could be admitted on it, at the rate paid for the education of other boys. The boys are entitled to remain at school four years, and on completing that period, they are entitled to re- ceive a Bible. They are treated in all respects as other scholars, and in case of a competition for admission, a preference is given to boys of the name of Henry. They are taught the common branches of education. On this fund, there are educated about 50 boys. The Webster Bequest. — John Webster, Esq. writer, and agent for a branch of the British Linen Company, in 1829, left by his will the whole of his property, amounting to upwards of L. 8000, to Charles Lyell, Esq. of Kinnordy, to the minister and elders of the parish, and the officiating baron-bailie of Kirriemuir, for insti- tuting, erecting, perpetually endowing, and for regulating a school in the town of Kirriemuir, at which the youth of the town and pa- rish might be instructed in the arts and sciences, or in such branches of education as his trustees might think most suitable. The trus- tees are at present engaged in collecting the money, which they are securing in the funds ; and, as soon as the amount is ascertain- ed, they will erect suitable buildings, and endow schools, in terms of the will. As they are anxious that the poor should receive in 188 FOBFARSHIRE. the meantime benefit from the bequest, they have agreed to pay the parish schoohnaster for the education of twenty boys at the same rate as for the boys who are educated on Henry's mortifica- tion. They have also erected a female school for educating fifty poor girls in such branches of education as are suitable to their years and sex. Both of these plans are temporary, and may at any time be altered or superseded. The parochial teacher's salary is L. 36, 7s. 2d. including L. 2, 2s. 9 Jd. in Ueu of garden-ground ; and the amount of school fees received may be L. 100. The salary of the schoolmistress on the Webster bequest is L. 40 per annum, including L. 5 for rent of school-room and for coals. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodations. The number of the young betwixt six and fifteen years of age who are not receiving instruction in reading and writing is small. The number of persons upwards of fifteen years of age who cannot read or write is not one to a thousand. The people through the whole parish are alive to the benefits of education ; and there can be no doubt that a visible change may be observed in the conduct and morals of the people since the facilities of education have been in- creased. Libraries. — A subscription hbrary was instituted in 1830. There is also a library attached to the Sabbath schools, contain- ing 800 volumes and tracts ; and a circulating library. There is a public reading-room, which is furnished with two London daily papers, two Edinburgh papers, published twice a-week, and two provincial papers. The people, in general, are attached to this species of reading. About fifty years ago there was but one news- paper, which served the whole parish. Now about 200 copies of various newspapers come weekly through the post-office. Friendly Societies. — There are 11 or 12 friendly societies in the parish, some of which are upwards of thirty years' standing. I regret to say, that, as in other places, they have been constructed on false calculations ; and the time will come when they must either die a natural death, or be dissolved. This has been the fate of some of them already ; and unless their articles be revised, as those of the Gardeners' Society have lately been, that of others will soon be the same. Savings Bank. — For three years the minister, in conjunction with James Forrest, Esq. agent for the British Linen Company's branch, superintended a saving bank ; but, owing to the small rate 1823, L. 180 6 4 1824, 212 18 m 1825, 250 4 6;( 1826, 227 14 2 1827, 804 5 4i 1828, 264 17 2i 1829, 291 4 9) 1830, 290 6 I0| KIRRIEMUIR. 189 of interest on the sums deposited, few availed themselves of the priyOegew Poor and Parochial Funds, * 1814» - - L. 215 7 11 1815, - - 200 12 3 1816, - - 208 2 Hi 1817, - - 544 17 di 1818, - - 219 13 Oi 18ia - - 271 17 6i 1820, - - 199 15 7i 1821, - - 184 1 10 1822; - - 174 12 In 1830, the collections for the poor were as follows : Church collection, L. 141, 5s. lid.; mortcloth, L.22, 6s.; penalties, L. 18^ 12s. 6d. ; donations, L. 15, 5s. 3d. ; legacies, L. 13; retum- ed, 1m 6, 10s.; proceeds of effects of paupers, L.5, 7s. 8Jd.; in- terest on stock, L. 2 ; in all, L. 224, 7s. 3d. There is no other regular mode of procuring funds for the poor besides that of church collections. There has hitherto been a strong disposition among the poor in general to refrain from seeking parochial relief, but I regret to observe it is fast declining. Prison. — There is a lock-up place of considerable strength, chiefly employed for confining vagrants till they are brought to justice. Fairs. — There are two great annual fairs held on the hill of Kirriemuir, the one in July, and the other in October, for sheep, cattle, and horses; there are two smaller ones held at the same place, the one in June, and the other in December, for the same purpose. Innsj Sfc. — There are in the -parish 6 brewers, 1 maltman, 1 chandler, 1 tobacco-manufacturer, 52 dealers in tea, 48 in to- bacco, 4 in vinegar, 31 in beer, 31 in spirits, and 7 in wine. The effects of the number of spirit-sellers on the morals of the people are obvious. Fuel. — The fuel commonly used is coals from Dundee, peats from the mosses in the neighbourhood, and wood from Glammis, Lindertis, and Kinnordy. Miscellaneous Observations. This parish has so few advantages of situation, that all the luxu- * For an account of the annual amount of contributions for the relief of the poor, from 1814 to 1824 inclusive, see statement relative to the pauperism of Kirriemuir, drawn up by the minister for the information of the heritors, and published in 1825. 190 FORFARSHIRE. ries, and many of the necessaries of life, are brought from the coast, a distance of twenty miles ; and the nearest road is across a range of hills, in many places steep, and difficult of access. The want of water is at all times justly complained of, and in years of drought much inconvenience is experienced ; but it is with no small degree of satisfaction that I have to remark, that all these disad- vantages have been in great measure surmounted by my parish- ioners. By the skilful hand of culture, our " muirs" have become garden^, and the wilderness hterally blossoms as the rose. The landholders have laid out their estates in fanns of a convenient size, and thriving woods and plantations wave in all directions. Our morasses have been drained ; and corn crops, of the most extraor- dinary luxuriance, now grow on lands which had lately been the habitation of the lapwing and other water-fowls. The water of the Garie is also carefully collected by us into dams ; and it is wonder- ful how many com and plash mills, on the most improved con- struction, are set in motion by it. Although the yarns must be carried from the shores in carts and along roads constructed on the common principles, * and although the cloth, when manufac- tured, must be carried back by the same rude conveyance, such is the ingenuity of our weavers, and such their industry, that we are not only able to compete with our rivals in the more favoured towns on the coast, but even to bear away from them the palm of victory. In proof of this, I have only to mention, that upwards of 50,000 pieces of linen, of various fabrics and qualities, are annual- ly manufactured among us ; and that several mill-spinners in Mon- trose and Dundee, — towns possessing many natural advantages to which we can lay no claim, — have been accustomed, for some time past, to send their yams to be woven in this distant quarter, — a measure which they never would have had recourse to, did they not find it their interest to do so. Our streets are regularly cleaned and lighted, as in larger towns ; and the landholders in the neigh- bourhood have only to countenance our undertakings, and the ob- structions complained of by them and by us will be removed. It may be remarked, in concluding, that there is an immense tract of country, with a numerous population, on the northern side of the Grampians, to which Kirriemuir is by many miles the nearest market ; but the inhabitants have been hitherto prevented from ^ It gives me the greatest pleasure to say, that, since the above was written, there is now Uic greatest probability that the Newtilc rail-road will ere long be extended to Kirriemuir, which cannot fail to be of the greatest advantage to the parish. LOCHLEE. 191 sTaiUng themselves of it from the want of a road over the Capul Mount. I am happy that this want has seriously attracted the notice of the landholders on either side of the Grampians, — that the country has been surveyed, — and that a line of road has been chalked out by Mr Blackadder for the sanction of Parliament I have no doubt that in time it will be carried into effect ; and that, while it will be of incalculable advantages to the parishes of the north, it cannot fail of being of the greatest use to the trade of Kirriemuir. by die Writer December 183a PARISH OF LOCHLEE. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. DAVID INGLIS, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries^ Sfc. — The parish of Lochlee derives its name from a lake in the west end of the parish. Its extent from east to west is about 15 miles, and its mean breadth 7 miles; — but the inhabited part does not extend above 8 miles in length, and 3^ miles in breadth. Its superficial extent is upwards of 100 square miles. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Birse, Aboyne, and Glenmuick, in Aberdeenshire ; on the west by Cortachie and Clova ; on the south by the united parishes of Lethnot and Navar; and on the east by Edzell. Its form is a parallelogram. It is situate among the Grampian mountains, the highest range of which separates it from Aberdeenshire. The elevation of Mount Keen, (the summit of which forms the division between the two coun- ties,) on the north-west, is about 4000 feet; and Mount Bat- toch, on the north-east, is 3465 feet. The various mountains on the north-west and south are from 2000 to 3000 feet above the level of the sea. Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere for eight months is cold and sharp : for the other four months, it is mild. In July and August the weather is sometimes very hot ; but throughout the year the climate may be considered as •generally healthy. In the months of August, October, and November, the greatest quan« FORFAR. N 192 FORFARSHIRE. tity of rain falls ; and, owing to the elevation of the parish above the level of the sea, there are frequently heavy falls of snow during winter. The rainbow, halo, and particulariy the polar lights, sometimes make a brilliant appearance. During spring, the wind blows generally from the east; and during winter, from the north. Hydrography. — In this parish there is a vast number of fine springs, whose waters, for their medicinal virtues, are not excelled by any in Britain, and have been found extremely beneficial in cases of strangury and gravel. The loch or lake before referred to is formed by the cavity of high rocky mountains, which encompass it on all sides except the east ; and is supplied with water by rivers, springs, and streams. Its length is a mile and a quarter; and its mean breadth half a-mile : the depth towards the middle, twenty fathoms. The principal rivers are the Lee, and the Unick, which joins the Lee a mile above the west end of the loch. The water which issues from the loch at the east end retains the name of Lee. The Lee, the Mark, and Brany, — all three unite opposite the new church, and form the North Esk. This river in its course through the parishes receives the Effock, Tarf, Keeny, and Turret, with many tributary streams : it runs very rapidly until it emerges from the Grampian mountains at the Gannachy Bridge, and falls into the German Ocean three miles north-east of Montrose. From the sources of the Mark and Lee, including its windings, it runs about fifty miles. Geology. — The strata generally dip in an easterly direction, fol- lowing the course of the North Esk. The mountains and hills are composed of primitive rocks, of mica-slate, trap, limestone: and granite forms the summits of the highest mountains. A vein of lead-ore runs through the parish in a direction nearly east and west. In the year 1728, a company of miners were em- ployed in making trial of it, but the quantity was so small, that it would not defray the expense of working. Since that time no other trial has been made. The mountains and great part of the valleys are covered with heath, strong benty grass, and peat-moss. The soil through the whole parish rests on a tilly gravelly bot- tom ; is thin, but when lime is applied, becomes tolerably produc- tive, provided the crop be not blasted with early frosts, which often happens. In that case, it is of little or no use, except for the straw. This has taken place four times within the last twenty-five years. LOCHLEE. 193 * Zoology. — The foxes in the parish have been very destructive to lambs; but by hunting, and other means used for their de- stnictioD, their number has of late been greatly diminished. Many badgers and wild cats are found among the rocks and cairns ; but they seldom do hurt to the sheep. Foxes and wild cats destroy a great number of grouse, which in a favourable season are plenti- ful on the moors. The Alpine hare abounds on the hilb ; and deer and roebucks traverse the glens. The high inaccessible rocks are frequented by largo eagles and hawks. There are a few com- mon bares and partridges on the low grounds. Vipers or adders, some of very large size, are numerous in the parish ; and lizards abound in all the moors. Wild geese and swans visit the loch sometimes in winter. The breed of cattle, sheep, and horses is the same as in the low country ; but the cattle never attain to the same weight. A small flying insect during the evenings of August and September is very troublesome to the people from its bite ; but the least breath of wind makes it disappear. Botany. — An immense quantity of bog-myrtle abounds in the marshy ground ; and foxglove and other plants of various kinds are found on the hills and in the valleys. There are several acres of natural birch wood of the very best kind growing on the sides of the hills ; there are also a few ash- trees, mountain-ash, alders, or Scotch mahogany. Several of the hills are well adapted for Scotch fir ; and larches in particular, though at present there are no plantations of these in the parish, would thrive remarkably well, if the sheep were kept from hurting theoL II. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — It may be worth while to record, that Alexan- der Ross, A.M. parochial schoolmaster, and author of the For^ tunate Shepherdess, a pastoral poem of considerable merit, was interred in this parish. He died forty-eight years ago, at the ad- vanced age of eighty-four. Land-^xcner. — The Right Honourable Lord Panmure is sole proprietor of the parish. Parochial Register. — The parish register of births extends as far back as the year 1730. This parish was disjoined from Lethnot, and erected into a separate charge in 1723. Parochial registers of marriages, baptisms, and burials are now regularly 194 FORFARSHIRE. kept. The age and diseases (if known) of all persons dying are carefully recorded. Antiquities. — Several tumuli occur upon the low barren ground of the parish. One of these was opened some time ago by a black- smith, who found in it the head of a battle-axe, which he did not scruple to make into hob-nails. The only building of antiquity is the old castle of Invermark, situate opposite to the manse. It was built in 1526. It was long the residence of the Lindsays, the proprietors of the parish. The rdof was taken off forty years ago : but the walls, which are up- wards of three feet thick, and remarkably strong, may stand for other three centuries. III. — Population. The population has varied little for the last hundred years. At present it is rather less than at the census of 1821, in consequence of the stop that has been put to smuggling within the last four years. In 1821, the population was 572; in 1831, it was 553. There are no villages in the parish. 1. Number of families in the parish, - - 120 of families chiefly employed in agriculture, - 60 chiefly employed in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 8 2. Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 1 3 of unmarried women, including widows, upwards of 45, - 13 S. Tlie average number of births yearly for the last seven years, . 15 of deaths, - .9 of marriages, - - 5 4. The number of persons at present under 15 years of age, - 150 upwards of 70, - 25 Character and Habits of the People, — In general, the people a«*c i*emarkably cleanly in their houses and persons ; as also in their food, which is plain and substantial. They enjoy all the neces- saries, and many of the comforts, of life. Kindness to strangers .is one of their distinguishing characteristics ; and, being content- ed with the lot which Providence has assigned them, they can feel for the distresses of others ; their hospitable doors are ever open, and the beggar is not sent empty-handed away. They are pos- sessed of much natural shrewdness, which many of them have im- proved by extensive reading ; and they attend punctually to the ordinances of religion. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The arable land is so much scattered throughout the parish, that the number of imperial acres cannot be very accurately ascertained, except by actual measure- ment. Probably 1400 acres may be very near the gross amount; LOCIILEE. 195 while there are upwards of 60,000 acres that have never been under tillage, 200 of which might be reclaimed at an expense of from L. 12 to L. 16 per acre. There are about 100 acres of natural wood, consisting almost entirely of birch, with a few ash, alder, and rowan-tree or mountain-ash. Sent ofLcmd* — When the arable land bears so small a propor- tion to the waste, it is impossible to say what the average rent of the former is ; but it is generally considered not worth more than 15s. per acre, the hill pasture in many small farms being given along with it Bate of Wages. — Labourers, besides victuals, get from lOd. to Is. per day during winter, and from Is. to Is. dd. per day during sunmier;— carpenters, masons, &c generally receiving about twice as much. Farm-servants and shepherds get from L. 5 to L. 7 during the half year; and female servants, during the same period, from L. 2 to L. 3, 10s., exclusive of victu&ls. Breeds of Live^Stock. — ^Much attention has of late been paid to the breeding of cattle, horses, and sheep. The two former are of the Angus breed, but the cattle are small ; the latter, principally black-faced, are bought in the south country when lambs, at from L. 5 to L. 7 and L. 8 the clad score. About 3000 lambs are reared from ewes within the parish. To encourage the rearing of sheep within the parish, or the importation from the south country. Lord Panmure has, with his usual liberality, established an annual show at Millden, where he gives prizes to those of his tenants who bring forward the best samples of sheep. Husbandry. — Most of the farmers observe a rotation of six years in cropping, viz. a white, a green, two white, and two grass crops. All the new leases are for nineteen years ; but there are still a few liferenters in the parish. There are a very few enclosures; and, in general, the farm-houses and steadings are in good repair, and are upheld by the tenants. Great improvements have of late years been made by many individuals in trenching baulks, '&c. and in making close fields. Prorfifce.— The average annual value of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows :— ^ Oats and big about - - - L. 2000 Potatoes and turnips, - - 800 Haj, principally cultivated) - - 200 Land for pasture, viz. for 340 full-grown cows and osen, at 15s. per head, 180 Land for 16000 sheep, at Is. per head, - - 800 Wool from the same, about - 600 Total raw produce, - L. 4580 196 FORFARSHIRE. V.*— Parochial Economy. Market'Tawn and Means of Communication. — The nearest mar- ket-town is Brechin, 22 miles from the manse, and 15 from the lowest end of the parish; and there are two weekly carriers to Brechin, who also bring up letters and newspapers. A new line of road, 7 J miles in length, has been formed since 1829 from the east end of the parish to the manse ; which road is now in good repair, the greatest acclivity being about one foot in twenty- four. There are three stone bridges in the parish, — one over the Tarf, built in 1830, of superior workmanship; and two others in tolerably good repair. Besides these, there are many wooden bridges, two of which are over the North Esk, and others are for the private accommodation of the farmers in their neighbourhood. Ecclesiastical State — The church is situate near the west end of the inhabited part of the parish, and the greater part of the po- pulation resides to the westward of it. It was built in 1803, re- paired and enlarged in 1824, and is seated for 270 persons. The seats are divided among the tenants, and are all rent free. The manse was built in 1803, repaired and enlarged in 1828. The glebe is of very large extent, but contains only twenty-four acres arable, and is worth about L. 24 per annum. The stipend is made up by Government from L. 89, Is. to L. 150. There is an Episcopalian chapel in the parish attended by 25 families, or about 1 13 individuals, exclusive of those who come from the neighbouring parishes. The EstabUshed Church is attended by 96 families, consisting of 440 individuals of all ages. The ave- rage number of communicants is 250 ; and the average amount of church collections is L. 22 yearly. Education. — There are two schools in the parish, one parochial, and the other endowed. Latin, Greek, and geography are some- times taught at the parish school. The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, L. 34, 4s. 4d. besides what was mortified to a catechist, both offices being conjoined about 100 years ago. The emoluments of the latter office are from 100 merks, 6 bolls of meal, and 10 imperial acres of land, of which 8 are arable. The nominal fees are, for reading, 2s. ; for reading and writing, 2s. 6d. ; for arithmetic and Latin, 5s. per quarter ; but no fees have been exacted for a considerable time past. The schoolmaster of the endowed school has a salary of L. 10 from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge in Scot- land ; a house, garden, and six acres of land from Lord Panmure ; LOCHLEE. 197 part of the land is not arable, but can easily be made so. He also recenres from L. 10 to L. 12 yearly in fees. There are no persons in the parish above six years of age who cannot read, and very few who cannot write. Ubrwry. — There is a parochial library containing upwards of 130 volumes, principally of a religious nature. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is from 8 to 10; and they receive from Is. to Is. 6d. per week. The total amount yearly distributed among the poor may be about L. 24 ; of which L. 2 is the interest of mortified money, and the remainder from church collections. luM^ 8^c. — There is one licensed alehouse in the parish, which is too much frequented, especially during winter. FueL — Peat and turf is the fuel on which the inhabitants prin- cipally depend. Miscellaneous Observations. The yearly rent of the whole parish in 1714, amounted to L.284, 4s. 6§d. Sterling: in 1792 it was L.385, 12s.: in 1832 it was L. 984 Sterling. A number of the farms which have been lately let have been raised to 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 times the former rent. Some of them let within these twelve years are from 10 to 25 per cent, above the real value, considering that the price of cattle, wool, and sheep, has fallen more than one-half since that time. December 183a PARISH OF TANNADICE. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. J. BUIST, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name and Boundaries. — The name of this parish was formerly spelt Tannadyse ; but in more modem times it is spelt Tannadice. Both are obviously resolvable into Taynatas^ a Gaelic word, which signifies " a low warm green plat upon the water." A better de- scription could not be given in any number of words, of the low shel- tered bottom, situated on the South Esk, on which the church, manse, and kirk-town or village stand. But although peculiarly ap- plicable to these, it is not so to much of the rest of the parish, which is in the form of an obtuse-angled triangle; the side sub- tending the obtuse angle, which is from 11 to 12 miles lor^, separating on the E. and N. E. the parish of Tannadice from those of Careston, Fern, and Navar; and the sides which contain the obtuse angle, separating Tannadice on the S. E., S. W. and N. W. from the parishes of Aberlemno, Oathlaw, Kirriemuir, and Cor- tachy. The boundary lines contain not less than 60 square miles of surface, or 38,400 imperial acres. The longitude of the parish is about two degrees east, and its latitude forty degrees north. Topographical Appearances, — From the S. E. point of the triangle, the surface of the parish gradually rises in undulating ridges to the foot of the Grampians. Of these, the most eleva- ted is called St Arnold's seat, which is nearly 500 feet higher than the parish church, and not less than 800 above the level of the sea. Nothing of the history of this saint is known, nor is any rea- son assigned for his resting on this lofty eminence, surmounted by a large cairn. The view from this height extends to the Scottish capital, — having the Pentland and Lammermuir hills in the back ground, with much varied and interesting scenery intervening. Hydrography. — There are two beautiful streams in the parish, the one called the South Esk, the other, the Noran, on whose banks a showy house and court of offices were lately erected, and TANNADICE. 199 from their situation called Noranside. The former of these arises from Loch Esk, in the parish of Clova, about twenty miles above the kirk of Tannadice ; within which parish the latter also arises ; and both unite at the south-east angle of the parishr The course and quantity of water of the former arc treble that of the latter. Both afford' excellent amusement to anglers ; but it is only in the Esk that salmon is found, and that in quantities so inconsiderable that no one has appropriated them. Mussels may be found in the Esk ; but neither so numerous nor valuable as they are reported to have formerly been, when many of them were annually collect- ed for sake of the pearls of uncommon size which they contained. Geology. — A dike of whinstone rock runs from east to west the whole breadth of the parish. No other stone appears on the south of this dike ; but close to it, and on the north, there lies a reddish coarse sandstone, which is quarried at various places, and fit for different purposes, particularly for building dikes. This stone gra- dually grows darker in the colour, till it reaches nearly the summit of the lower Grampian ridge, where blue slates are found ; but these are small, and considerably warped, — circumstances which, together with the ease and abundance with which gray slates can be got, prevent the blue from being much quarried. This vein appears to be a continuation of that which originates at Johnshaven, in the Mearns, and terminates at Easdale, in Argjleshire, and is advantageously quarried in the neighbourhood of Dunkeld, New- tyle, and other places. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — Three conical tumuli called Laws have in this pa- rish been levelled, and the ground on which they stood cultivated within these few years. In these tumuli, coarse earthen pots or urns were found, protected and surrounded by six flat square stones, and containing a quantity of black ashes, probably the re- mains of the illustrious dead ; while the remains of the less eminent seem to have been deposited in, and covered by the same number of stones, called coffins, but without any urns or ashes, or accumula- tions of earth. Perhaps the bodies of the former were burned, while those of the latter were not so honoured. Modern Buildings. — Downiepark is a splendid mansion, and ele- gantly furnished. It was erected by the late Lieutenant- Colonel Rattray of the Bengal artillery, and is occasionally inhabited by his widow, the liferentrix of this and his other property. This house has, on the north, a near view of the towering summits of the 200 FORFARSHIRE. lower Grampain range, covered with native heath, or clothed with thriving larch, lately planted by the Earl of Airlie ; and nearer still, the castles of Cortachy and Innerquharity, with their policies of aged wood, the South £sk winding amongst them its dark, troubled, and noisy way to the ocean. — About two miles farther down the stream, stands the house of Inshewan, very lately built by its present worthy occupant, John Ogilvy, Esq. who constantly resides there with his family. On the north of this house is a moor lately planted, which promises soon to become a great orna- ment, and to afford much shelter. — About four miles still farther down, stands the house of Tannadice, built about thirty years ago by Charles Ogilvy, Esq. who acted about twenty years as a sur- geon in the East India Company's Service. It has in front, the Esk, with a bridge over it of three arches, and the castle and hill of Finhaven, and is surrounded by young planting of the proprietor's own raising. — Nearly opposite, and on the other side of the water, is the house of Whitewell, the property of Gemmel, Esq. which he inherits from a paternal grandfather. There are also the houses of Easter Ogle and Wester Ogle, and Glenquiech ; and on Wester Markhouse, Major Swinbum has just built a hand- some dwelling in the style of the English cottage. Land-Owners. — There are, in all, twelve proprietors in the pa- rish, — none of whom draw a rent of less than L. 300 Sterling. Their valued rents are as follows : — Peter Wedderburn Ogilvy, Esq. of Ruthven, - - L. 1218 6 8 George Lyon, Esq. of Glen Ogle, W. S. Edinburgh, - 800 John Ogilvy, Esq. of Inshewan, ... 533 6 8 The Right Honourable David Earl of Airlie, - - - 449 3 10 Charles OgUvy, Esq. of Tannadice, - - - - 386 10 Donald Sinclair M^Lagan, Esq. of Glenquiech, ... 266 13 4 Mrs Rattray, relict of Lieutenant- Colonel Rattray, Esq. of Downicpark, 220 16 8 John Kinloch, Esq. of Kilrie Logic's Cairn, - - - 216 13 4 Alexander Simpson, Esq. of Easter Ogle, .... 200 Migor Swinbum of Markhouse, - - - - 180310 The Honourable Lord Fife, - - - - 180 Gemmel, Esq. of Whitewells, - - 145 Scots, L. 4796 14 4 Parochial Registers. — In these no funerals and but few mar- riages are recorded; and the register of baptisms, which com- mences in the year 1693, has not always been very regularly kept. III. — Population. On a map, engraven about fifty years ago from a survey of the county made by Mr Ainslie, the population of this parish is stat- ed to be 2000. By the census of 1801, the population is nearly TANNADICE, 201 ISOO. At the former of these periods, there were many small holdings in Glenquiech, and more particularly in Glen Ogle, the dwellings on which have been demolished, their patches of plough- ed land and gardens converted into pasture, and the whole let as sheep-forms. From these circumstances the decrease of popula- tion may be easily and satisfactorily accounted for. By the cen- sus of 1831, the population was 1560. This increase may be ac- counted for from several feus having been granted, and good houses erected on them, and from a number of new houses having been built by one proprietor, in the village. The spinning and plash- mills have also tended to increase the population. The number of fiunilics in the parish is - - • 294 of fiunilies chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 120 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 72 Nine licensed ale and whisky-houses, spinning and plash-mills, bothies, and a heckling-house, contribute nothing to improve the morals of the population. Nevertheless, the people are generally moral in their conduct, and regular in attending public worship. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — There are 106 holdings of land in the parish di- rect from the proprietors; but of these more than a half are under forty acres ; some of them not exceeding four or five. The re- mainder are divided into farms, extending from 100 to 400 acres of arable land, the greater part of which are enclosed with dikes of reddish sandstone. The soil is so various that the produce may be calculated at from three to four times as many bolls per Scot- tish acre. Rent of Land. — The maximum of rent is about L. 3, 10s. per Scottish acre. Husbandry, — Alternate husbandry is universal. The rotation varies from four to seven years; and small slight two-horse ploughs, some of them of iron, and more of thems)f wood, are exclusively used. On almost every farm, and indeed on several pendicles, the grain is separated from the straw by mills driven by water or horse. The offices and farm-houses are constructed of stone and lime, and covered with slate, and all of them are comfortable and commo- dious. The hills or lower part of the Grampians, comprehending up- wards of two-thirds of the surface of the parish, are pastured by about 2400 sheep, which, when lambs, were brought from Lin- ton at nearly double the price which they would have cost four years ago. During the two or three years they are kept, they yield 202 FORFARSHIRE. from two to three pounds per fleece of very indifferent wool yearly. The carcases, when fattened on the hill, as they sometimes are, weigh from eight to ten pounds per quarter of well-flavoured mut- ton. But the far greater part, when rising three or four years old, are sold in October, to be fed off with turnips, — when they in- crease generally to about fifteen per cent, both in weight and value. Cattle and Horses. — Many black-cattle are raised, and when ris- ing three years old are stall-fed to the weight of from thirty to sixty stones of excellent beef, much of which is sent to Glasgow or London. The breed of horses is good, and few are used of an inferior description. Spinning Mills, Sfc. — There are two spinning, and twice as many plash-mills, — the former of which may each throw off from 1300 or 1400 spindles weekly. No flax produced in this parish is spun at the mills, which are suppHed from Dundee and Montrose. Much yarn is brought from the same places to be cleaned, where w^ter and water-power are abundant ; and opportunities are not wanting in Forfar and Kirriemuir of converting the yarn into cloth, in which form it is returned to the ports already mentioned. V. — Parochial Economy. . Means of Communication. — Of the great thoroughfare by Dun- dee to the north, there are about three miles in this parish, viz. from the bridge over the Esk at Finhaven, to that over the No- ran at Nether Careston. This piece of turnpike, on which there is a toll-bar, is both nearly straight and level, and is easily kept in excellent order. There are two principal lines in the parish that lead to this turnpike ; these, from the great number of very heavy loaded carriages daily, almost hourly, traversing them with coals, grain, flax, yarn, &c. are expensively kept up, and are now in indifferent repair. The other lines of road are numerous and long, and are barely passable in winter. There are four stone bridges over the Esk, — one of them with an arch of 105 feet span, being wholly, and the other three partially, in this parish. Ecclesiastical Stale. — The Archbishop of St Andrews had been in use to let the teinds ; and the tacksmen levied the ipsa corpora. St Mary's College having become titulars, continued the former practice of uplifting the teind till the year 1718, when the whole annual value of the parish was, upon oath, ascertained to be 15,000 merks Scots, of which a fifth, or 3000 merks, became teind ; of this, the College allowed a third to the officiating resi- dent clergyman: of the remaining two-thirds, they were finally TANNADICE. 203 relieved, by a decreet of augmentation obtained thirty years ago. StUl the living is very inadequate to the charge. The glebe, ex- clusive of garden, &c consists of eight Scotch acres, and if valued at the same rate as a few additional acres which the incumbent rents, would be worth L. 28 Sterling. The church has had a choir and an oriel window, — indications of a Roman Catholic origin. It is in a tolerable state of repair, but otherwise verj' inconvenient and uncomfortable. The manse was built in 1797, and has since received an addition, and, as a whole, is substantial, comfortable, and most delightfully situated. The other accommodations are of later erection than the manse, and are spacious and substantial. The parish church, which is but indifferently seated, may contain 650 persons. The communicants are about 570, besides about 100 who annually communicate at Cortachy ; in all, nearly 700. Three of the heritors are of the Episcopalian persuasion, and two are Presbyterians. There are three women and one man who attend the Secession. An Episcopalian minister officiated in the parish church till the year 1716; but, being favourable to the rebellion, he was dismissed, and his son was hanged. The people then elected and got a Presbyterian minister ordained and admit- ted ; but in the course of six years he became so unpopular, and was so grossly slandered, as to be deposed ; but upon a review of the sentence, it was found so iniquitous that it was cancelled in a few years ; yet the poor man had neither opportunity nor encou- ragement to exercise his restored privileges, as another had in the meantime been installed in his place. Nor did the latter long en- joy his situation. On his death, St Mary's College wished to fill up the vacancy, but the person they recommended being rejected, another was popularly elected. At next vacancy the patrons exer- cised their right, and after going more than once the round of all the church courts, made it good. If the three former incumben- cies were stormy, this was a hurricane, terminated only by death, the settler of all controversies, and leaving a large debt for law expenses. Education. — The parochial schoolmaster has an excellent dwell- ing-house, and teaching-room apart, — both beautifully situated. His accommodations are good, and his salary the maximum. There are other three male teachers in the parish, — one of whom depends nearly altogether upon school-fees ; but besides fees, the otlier two have teaching-rooms, dwelling-houses, and gardens, free, and not less than L. 10 annually, by subscription or otherwise. There are about as many female as male teachers in the parish ; 204 FORFARSHIRE. of these, one has a beautiful cottage, and well kept garden, some bolls of meal yearly, and a supply of milk daily, all from the gene- rosity of Lady Airly. The reading of English, the various uses of the needle, French, and music, are taught in this female seminary, where boarders are kept The two nrst branches only are taught in the other schools, and the mistresses have no sources of support except the fees* About 200 children receive instruction in the elementary and higher branches of education. There are also two Sabbath schools, one of them taught gratuitously by some mem- bers of the minister's family, and other well-disposed individuals. All persons in the parish above seven years of age can read, and there are but very few who have not made some additional lite- rary attainments. Libraries. — We have two parochial libraries, viz. oto in the vil- lage, kept by the parochial schoolmaster; the other in Glen Ogle, kept by the schoolmaster in that district. The latter consists prin- cipally of moral and religious books and tracts, with a few historical works ; the former consists of all these, with not a few fictitious compositions. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Nearly a century ago, there ap- pears to have been, during several years, a parochial assessment for the support of the poor, which was found to be not only trouble- some and expensive, but also demoralizing. There being a small sum, or parochial fund, belonging to the poor, it was raised by donations and collections, until in the year 1796 it amounted to L. 210 Sterling. This stock, though reduced by the four very se- vere seasons of 1799, 1800, 1816, and 1822, amounts at present to L. 318 Sterling, bearing four per cent, interest on good security. The interest, with the weekly collections made in the church, mort- clotK money, and occasional donations, amounts in all, according to the annual balance-sheets of the three last years, to from L. 75 to L. 78 annually. This sum is distributed amongst four families and eight individuals, whose allowances range from 2s. 6d. to 10s. monthly ; besides house rent, fuel, shoes, &c. But there are many who receive privately donations in money, meal, flannel, &c. — they eking out, by their own industry or the aid of others, what farther is necessary for their support. In this way, they are either not known, or not considered, as paupers. Savings Bank. — A savings bank, on a sure foundation, has existed twenty years in the parish, in which there are deposited upwards of L. 300, greatly to the benefit of both male and female shareholders. 4 TANNADICE. 205 The latter always draw out on the certain prospect of marriage; and the former, when any situation of independence casts up. The in- terest is a comfortable addition to the incomes of many. FueL — Eyerything capable of ignition is used as fuel, viz. whins, broom, brushwood, turf, peats, and coals; the last can be pur- chased at Montrose for Is. Id., or a little more per barrel, of 10 stones English weight, or 160 pounds. The upper part of the parish, to which coals were almost inaccessible, can now be as easily supplied from the depot at Newtyle by the rail-road, as the lower from Montrose. There are thirteen taxable carriages at pre- sent running in the parish, some of them with four, and others with two wheels. Forty years ago there was not one of either descrip- tion. Few c{f the roads, indeed, were suitable for such vehicles. Miscellaneous Observations. The principal improvements within the last forty years have been already mentioned. It may be added, that, if we may judge by the longevity of many, the parish is very healthy. A few years ago seven men and a maiden lady died in one year, all upwards of eighty years of age : and last winter, a man, who had been at the battle of CuUoden, died at the age of 104, and another only twelve years younger. Tliere are at present upwards of ten persons alive about eighty years of age; and three nearly ninety. January 1835. PARISH OF KINNETTLES. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ROBERT LUNAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish appears to have derived its name from the GaeHc word Kinnettles^ signifying " the head of the bog." The following circumstances probably gave rise to. it. The bottom of the extensive vale of Strathmore, which comprehends the northern part of the parish, appears, from several internal and external evi- dences, to have formed, at a remote period, the bed of a large river or lake, which, finding a pretty level passage into a small valley among the Siedlaw hills, formed a kind of bay or bason, — which, when the water was diverted into another channel, formed a bog or marsh : at the head of that bog, a church was built, probably in the twelfth century, — which gave the name of Kinnettles to the pa- rish. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish is about 2 imperial miles in length, 2 in breadth, and, comprehending 3078 imperial acres, contains about 4J imperial square miles. It is bounded on the west by the parish of Glammis ; on the north by the parishes of Glammis and Forfar ; on the east by the parishes of Forfar and Inverarity ; and on the south by the parish of Inverarity. Its fi- gure is nearly a square. Tojwgraphical Appearances. — Being pretty equally divided from east to west by an oblong hill, the parish is situated partly in the vale of Strathmore, and partly in the valley formed among the Siedlaw hills. In consequence of this oblong hill rising nearly in the centre of the parish, the surface of the ground is generally far from being flat. The west, north, and east sides of the hill have a gentle declivity to the extremities of these sides ; and the south side de- clines more rapidly towards the rivulet, where the ground begins to rise with a gentle acclivity towards the southern extremity. Hence the parish has four different aspects, of which the one to the north is the largest. Now, the hill which produces all these varieties of aspect is one of the detached Siedlaw hills, called sometimes the KINXETTLES. 207 hill of Brigton, and sometimes the hill of Kinnettles, because it is divided betwixt the proprietors of those two estates. This hill, whose form approaches to that of an ellipsis, whose flattish top rises about 356 feet above the level of the sea, and whose attractive appearance strikes the eye of every beholder, especially when viewed from the south, instead of disfiguring, adds considerable beauty to the parish. Its beauty arises chiefly from its gentle acclivity, from its great fertility, and from its being all arable and under various agricultural crops, except a very few acres on its brow, which, being very steep, somewhat rocky, and not easily approach- ed by the plough, are closely covered with various kinds of thriv- ing wood. Tlie view on all sides is grand and extensive. Meteorology^ Sfc. — This parish, owing to its vicinity to the German Ocean, and the situation, at least of nearly the one-half of it, among the Siedlaw hills, has an atmosphere of considerable humidity. Among the prognostics of weather, it may be noticed that a small acquaintance with physiological botany, finds in the economy of some plants several satisfactory indications of the state of the weather. Thus, the Convolvulus arvensis^ Anagallis arveitsis^ Ca- lendula pluvialisy shut up their flowers against the approach of rain; whence the anagallis has been called the poor man's weather- glass. There is, in the parish, a species of soft gray sandstone, which, when built in the wall of a dwelling-house, and not coated on the inside with lime or clay, indicates rain, by becoming gloomy and moist before rain. This parish enjoys a variety of climate, corresponding to the variety of its elevations and exposures. Those parts of it which are little elevated above the valleys, have a mild and genial cUmate ; whereas those that are more elevated on the north, east, and west sides of the hill of Kinnettles, and on the north side of the hill of Kincaldrum, whose summit, and part of whose base, are situated in the parish of Inverarity, enjoy a purer and colder climate. But, as the highest grounds in the parish have only a moderate elevation above the level of the sea, the climate is, on the whole, justly entitled to the character of good and salubrious. It was not so, however, forty years ago, because a considerable portion of tfie parish was then in a state of marsh and meadow, saturated with stag- nant water. But in consequence of a general drainage throughout the parish in the course of the last twenty years, there is little or no stagnant water to be found. Of course the air, although occa- sionally moistened with eastern haars or fogs, which come from the FOIIFAR. o 208 FORFARSHIRE. German Ocean, and with the hoar-frosts to which the lower parts of the parish are more exposed than the higher, is remarkably pure and healthful. In proof of this, we have no diseases that can be said to be local. Agues, which were prevalent before drainage commenced, are now unknown ; fevers of every kind occasionally make their appearance, yet they are not epidemical. Consump- tion, scrofula, hooping-cough, croup, measles, inflammation, and typhus fever, may be said to be our most prevalent diseases. Hydrography. — This parish is generally well supplied with water by means of the numerous springs in which it abounds. These springs are partly perennial, and partly periodical. The perennial springs appear all to flow from sandstone rocks, and probably from the rocks composing the basis of the southern range of the Sicdhiw hills. Their water is pure and soft. Their temperature generally corresponds to that of the atmosphere; and they have no peculia- rities worthy of remark. There is one perennial spring, however, at the Kirktown, that justly deserves observation, not so much on account of the quality of its water, which is excellent, as on account of the quantity which it discharges. To convey some idea of its uncommon strength, it was found, on pretty accurate measurement, to discharge no less a quantity than 25 imperial gal- lons per minute, 1500 per hour, and 36,000 per day. In some parts of the parish, particularly the more elevated, there are a few periodical springs, which flow during winter and spring, and then cease to flow till the return of winter. Their water is, compara- tively, much inferior in quality to that of the perennial springs. Being chiefly the offspring of surface-water imbibed by the earth, it is impure, hard, and strongly impregnated with the properties of the media through which it is conveyed. Besides the two kinds of springs already mentioned, there are several mineral springs, generally distinguished by the name of chalybeate, because they contain a portion of iron in solution. Their waters are exc'^ced- ingly hard, unpleasant, and ill adapted for washing and bleaching clothes, and for culinary purposes. There are also two beautiful mineral springs from copper ore, the waters of which, though ex- hibiting a glistening surface, are extremely impure, of an offensive smell, and a disagreeable taste. Although this parish can boast of no river, yet it is beautifully diversified by a large rivulet, called Kerbit, which, taking its rise in Dilty-Moss, in the parish of Carmylie, seven miles distant east- ward, follows a north-west direction, till it forms a junction with the KINNETTLES. 209 Dean, then with the Isla, and finally with the Tay ; and after fol- lowing tf most circuitous and somewhat ellipticjil course of seventy- two miles, it falls into the German Ocean, about ten miles to the southward of its source. It is a gentle flowing stream, about 20 feet in breadth, 2 feet in depth, and flows with a velocity of one mile per sixty-six minutes. It drives a multitude of mills, abounds in large and excellent trout, and afibrds much sport to anglers, with whom its winding banks are sometimes thickly planted, during the spring and summer months. It is naturally pacific : but after a great fall of rain, or an efiectual thaw of a winter storm, when the melted snow and ice run down in torrents from the hills, it swells to an almost incredible extent, and lays hundreds of acres of arable and meadow ground under water. Geohgy and Mineralogy, — The rocks, which enter into the com- position of the hill and of the inclined planes of the parish, are whinstone, sandstone, and slate. The whinstone rock makes its appearance under the varieties of pure whinstone, trap, and basalt, in three distinct parts of the parish. But although it thus appears in a detached state, it is in all probability related to the Siedlaw range, where a zone of whinstone strata seems to be formed, run- ning, with occasional interruptions, from S. W. to N. E. Its ex- tent is considerable, particularly in the hill of Kinnettles, where it shows itself almost uninterruptedly from the one end of the hill to the other, whose length is not less than three-fourths of a mile. Although its depth is very considerable, varying from 40 to 100 feet, yet the thickness of its strata is not great. In consequence of its numerous intersections, the blocks of which it is composed are generally small, and very irregular. The three varieties of this rock are worked in the parish. Two of these, situated in the north- em district, furnish stones of a dark blue colour; and the third, situated in the southern district, furnishes stones of a paler colour on the fracture, and externally muddy, resembling the colour of a toad. In all the three the rock is very difiicult to work, and the stones which they furnish, being extremely hard in their texture, of small size, and irregular in their shape, are useful only as road- metal, and for filling drains. The sandstone or freestone rock, whose colour is partly gray and partly tinged with red, is very con- siderable in its extent. It not only forms the base of the hill which rises in the centre of the parish, but traces, at a certain depth, its unbroken connection with the extensive range of freestone which per- vades the whole chain of the Siedlaw hills. This rock is stratified to 210 FORFARSHIRE. the very surface, has four strata of puddingstone regularly intersper- sed among the strata, and detached yolks imbedded in the pure strata. It furnishes stones of very large dimensions. Its strata towards the surface are thin, but, thickening downwards, they be- come so massy that they cannot be raised without the assistance of gunpowder. The slate-rock, which is a species of fine gray sand- stone, and the only rock of the kind yet discovered and opened in the parish, does not appear to be very extensive. It is situated on the north bank of the rivulet, and appears to form part of that slaty range which extends, with several interruptions, from the commencement to the termination of the Siedlaw hills. It fur- nishes slates, but particularly flags, of good quality, of considerable size, and of a dark gray colour. From a minute examination of the component parts of our globe, geologists and mineralogists have been led to conclude, that its structure has been formed by the junction of various formations. In support of this conclusion, all the rocks in this parish discover evident marks of stratification and seams of distinct concretions. The strata and beds of the whihstone rocks have a direction from E. to W., an inclination of 7** 12' to the W., and a dip of 9° 45' to the N. The strata and beds of the sandstone rock have a di- rection from E. to W. nearly, an inclination of 11° 45' to the S. W., and a dip of 15^ 30' to the N. W. The strata and beds of the slate-rock have a direction from E. to W., an inclination of 15° 28' to the W., and a dip of 18° 10' to the N. W. In the three spe- cies of rock which have just been described, numerous veins are quite discernible. They frequently cut across the strata, and occasion- ally derange their structure. But while the veins, which cut the whinstone strata in all directions, are generally filled with a ferru- ginous cement, those which ramify in the freestone and slate strata are generally filled with clay, and sometimes with camstone, — which appHes more particularly to the veins of the slaty strata. In the different species of rock already mentioned, various ores are to be found. The sandstone contains copper imbedded, and lead disseminated in veins ; but the quantity is so small, that it would not pay the expense of extraction. The whinstone, parti- cularly that species of it called basalt, abounds in manganese, dis- seminated in veins, but is not worth working. The freestone rocks contain various minerals, — such as garnet, mica, calc-spar,' quartz, lime-spar. The solid rocks of whinstone, sandstone, and slate, which com- KINNETTLES. 211 pose the interior parts of the area of the parish, are covered, al- most universally, with a coating of various materials, which con- ceals them, with a very few exceptions of basalt, from our view. That coatmg, whether thick or thin, as it varies from one foot to six feet, is composed of alluvial deposits, generally imposed in layers. The lowermost layer generally consists of reddish sand or gravel ; and the uppermost is composed sometimes of sandy loam, and sometimes of loam mixed with clay. Soil. — To the agriculturist, variety of soil, corresponding to the variety of crop which he grows, must be extremely useful. Accord- ingly, this parish fortunately enjoys the various soils which are suited to the purposes not only of the agriculturist, but also of the horticulturist, the botanist, the florist, and the nurseryman. Tliese soils are the clayey, loamy, sandy, gravelly, and mossy. However diversified may be the strata of the subsoil, they all, with the ex- ception of the mossy, appear to rest, at various depths, on sand- stone or freestone. Their adjuncts and concomitants may be stated as follows : — o M Extent in Varying depth ,«^_^ , t, j . Soils. . • • u Wetness or dryness. Productiveness* imp. acres. in inches. ' * *w«uvn»ci««:w». Clayey, 434 From 12 to 36 Dampish. Most productive. Loamy, 1881 10 to 18 Moderately dry. Nearly as productive. Saudy, 252 8 to 15 Dry. Less productive. Gravelly, 839 6 to 13 Generally dry^ Still less productive. Mossy, 172 14 to 48 Wcttish. Least productive. From the stratifications discernible in all these soils, it appears highly probable that they have been transported. That this has been the case with regard to the sandy, gravelly, and mossy soils in particular, must be obvious to every intelligent geologist In former times, when the superficial area of the parish presented one continuous field, without dike or ditch, and when it was par- tially cultivated by a great number of small tenants, who tilled their parcels in alternate ridges, depositing all the stones which they collected on the cultivated ridge, on the intermediate uncul- tivated one, boulders prevailed to a great extent in the several soils ; but, as soon as the spirit of cultivation began to operate with new energy, and on a more extended and efficient plan, many of the most manageable of these boulders were either blasted with gunpowder and carted away, or trailed off the ground by means of a strong sledge, drawn by oxen and horses. And, now that agriculture has reached a degree of perfection unknown to our forefathers, few, comparatively, of these stones are to be seen on the surface of the 212 FORFARSHIRE. ground. A few of them, indeed, are still to be met with in the ground ; but when they are found, they are either blasted, or sunk into the earth beyond the reach of the plough. Being frequently of great magnitude, some of them of two or three tons weight, the removing of them was often a task of Herculean labour. As some of them are granites, some mica-schiSts, some porphyries^ and some globular masses of quartz or silicious spar, they appear to demon- strate that they are not natives of the place, — and that, by means of attrition, they have been rounded and diminished in size, in pro- portion to the distance they have travelled. The following is a view of the plants and animals most fre- quently and peculiarly attached to the soils, and to the banks of the Kerbit : Soil. Plants. Animals. Clayey, - Spcar-thistle, xnilk-tbistle, dock, smear- Plover, wild-goose, dock, rcsthanrow, redshank, mush- grub, slug, worm, room, daffodil, wild-hyacinth. Loamy, - Ragwort, crowfoot, dandelion, wild vio- Hare, partridge, corn- let, mountain, daisy, sorrel, spearmint. craik, hedgehog. Sandy and gravelly. Knot-grass, couch-grass, whin, broom, Lark, mole, centi- wild raspberrj'. pcde, beetle, toad, ant, lizard. Mossy, - Rush, flag, horsetail, colts-foot, cotton- Lapwing, snipe, wild> grass, marsh-marigold. duck, frog. Banks of Kerbit, Willow, elder, queen of the mead, water- Water-rat, otter, ho - cress, fungi. ron, kingsfisher. Although several springs in the parish strongly indicate the presence of iron and copper ores, there is not a mine of any de- scription worked. In an inclined plane, on the north-west base of the hill of Kinnettles, coal was, long ago, supposed to exist. About seventy years ago, the supposition became generally so strong, that the proprietor of Brigton employed some practical miners to make a search. This they did by boring to a considerable depth ; and tradition says, that, in conducting the search, a stratum of coal was actually found, but that the miners were bribed. There is still an idea that coal might be extracted from the place referred to. Zoology. — The only species of animals among our native qua- drupeds, which are seldom to be found in some neighbouring pa- rishes, are, the fox, badger, polecat, squirrel, weasel, hedgehog, and otter. Tlie migratory birds are, the lapwing, plover, swallow, cuckoo, landrail, kingsfisher, woodcock, wild-goose, and heron. With the exception of the woodcock and wild-goose, which generally appear in the beginning of winter, these birds make their appear- ance about the beginning of May, for the purpose of breeding, and KINNETTLES. 213 take their departure about the end of September. The heron, however, is frequently to be seen in winter on the banks of the Kerbit. In regard to their live-stock in general, the farmers in this pa- risli, though generally more disposed to graze and feed than to breed and rear, are equalled by few, and surpassed by none in the county. Whether they breed and rear, which they do to a con- siderable extent, or whether they purchase to supply the deficiency, which they often do, but always with the greatest care, they gene- rally make a point of keeping a live-stock of superior quality, large size, and great value; and thus, since the introduction of en- closures, turnips, potatoes, and sown grasses, there has been a re- markable improvement of every species of live-stock. The cattle, formerly of small, are now of large size; and when well fed on turnips, potatoes, or grass, — a practice extensively followed in the parish, — they are much esteemed in the Edinburgh and Glasgow markets, where they bring high prices. Nor are the farmers less conspicuous for the superior stock of horses which they keep. Wliether they breed and rear their own horses, which they gene- rally do in a great measure, or whether they make purchases from the south and west country dealers to make up the deficiency of rearing, which they occasionally do, but with the utmost caution and nicest selection, they never fail to keep up a choice stock. Tlie case was different in former times. When roads were bad, and when most carriages were performed on horseback, and when the plough and wain were drawn chiefly by oxen, the breed of horses was comparatively small. But the native breed has been improved, both in size and shape, in proportion as they have been regularly worked, well fed, and amply provided with winter pro- vender. To such perfection have they been brought, that a pair are now sufficient for the cart or plough ; and, in drawing these implements, they perform more work, and to better purpose, in a given time, than six oxen, preceded by two horses, did in the days of our fathers ; and in such estimation are the horses that have been reared in the parish held, that a pair, when sold, often bring from L. 60 to L. 80. The number of swine reared and fed in the parish has been greatly on the increase for several years past. Two breeds of swine, with various mixtures and crosses of these, are to be found in the parish. The first kind has large slouched oars, long bristles on the dorsal ridge, long shaggy hair, and a long 214 FORFARSHIRE. tapering snout Tliey feed to eighteen or twenty stones, imperial weight, and, when well fed, make excellent pork ; but the small Chinese breed abounds most, and feeds from eight to ten stones, imperial weight Those who keep a stock of hogs generally keep them in good condition, and feed them highly. Every species of corn grown in the parish is less or more ex- posed to the depredations of insects. Wheat suffers from slugs ; but the greatest eneniy that has yet assailed it, is a fly that was introduced in 1826, and that made its appearance in 1827. This insect inserts into the ear its ova, which, soon becoming small worms, injure it very much. In consequence of the rapid and ex- tensive depredations of this insect, wheat has been almost banished from the parish for the last six years. Fortunately, however, the last crop has suffered but little from its ravages, and hopes are en- tertained that it will soon disappear from this quarter. II. — Civil History. The ancient history of this parish appears to be involved in great obscurity. Although the old church and tower, which stood in the present churchyard, and which were taken down in 1812, exhi- bited strong presumptive evidence of their having been erected in the twelfth century, yet no authentic account of the parish can be traced beyond the era of the Reformation. At that period, and for about 200 years after, its extent was much less than it is at present; then, the Bishop of Dunkeld was proprietor of about 200 Scotch acres of land, which, though locally situated in the parish of Caputh, lay conterminous with the southern extremity of the parish, and were held on lease by a tenant called Alexander Pyott. From his principles and practices, Pyott appears to have been a discerning, selfish, staunch, papist Alanned at the pro- gress of the Reformation, he repaired to Dunkeld, in order to hold an interview with his bishop concerning the state of public affairs. The bishop received him most cordially : and on Pyott's assuring him that he would strain every nerve to resist the progress of tlie Reformation, he immediately wrote out a disposition of the said lands in Pyott's favour. On receiving this document, Pyott, exult- ing at the success of his visit, returned home with his new acquisi- tion ; and, without loss of time, he repaired to his hoHness at Rome, and got the deed of conveyance confirmed by a Popish bull, — in virtue of which it is held at the present day. The last Popish pro- prietor of the lands in question, sinking into poverty, sold them in KINNETTLES. 215 1758 to the Earl of Strathmore; and in 1773 the General As- sembly of the Church of Scotland annexed them, quoad sacra^ to the parish of Kinnettles. Eminent Men. — Only two eminent men seem to have been con- nected with this parish for the last 100 years. The first is Colonel William Patterson, son of a gardener to Mr Douglas of Brig- ton, about the middle of the last century. Honoured with the patronage of Lady Mary Lyon of Glammis, he rose to the dignified station which he filled during the greatest part of his remarkably diversified life. He was connected with the parish by birth, as well as by residence in his early years. * The other eminent character alluded to is John Inglis Harvey, Esq. of Kinnettles. He was born and resided in this parish till he attained the age of sixteen years. After receiving a classical education in his father's house, he was sent to one of the English universities, where he was instructed in general literature and science, but in the law department in particular, and where he car- ried several prizes. Having thus qualified himself for some con« spicuous station, he, about twelve years ago, obtained an appoint- ment to a very honourable and distinguished ofiice in the East In- dies ; and afterwards ascended the bench as a civil judge in that country. Land-Burners. — The land-owners in the parish are, the Earl of Strathmore ; Robert Douglas, Esq. of Brigton ; John Inglis Har- vey, Esq. of Kinnettles ; Captain John Laurenson of Invereighty ; and Mr John Wighton of Muiryknows. Parochial Registers. — The kirk-session is in possession of six • The cenotaph in the church-yard of his native parish bears the following inscrip- tion : Sacred to the memory of Colonel William Patterson, Fellow of the Uoyal So- ciety, Member of the Asiatic and Linnean Societies, Lieutenant-Colonelof the 102d Kegiment, and for many years Lieutenant-Governor of New South Wales. He served thirty years in the army, — twenty-five of which were passed in the East Indies^ and in New South W^ales ; and, in fulfilling his duty to his country, he twice circum- navigated the Globe. His taste for Natural History induced him in the earlier part of his life, to travel from the Cape of Good Hope into the interior of Africa, into which country he penetrated farther than any European had ever done before him. His unwearied assiduity in the pursuit of science, supported in an unusual di^ee by talent and zeal, enabled him to collect, and bring to England, specimens of plants and other curiosities till then unknown. He discharged with honour and fidelity the trust reposed in him as an ofiicer ; and his services were particularly valuable in New South Wales, as I^ieutenant- Governor of that settlement. Nor did he there neglect his favourite pursuit, but continued to enrich both public and pri\'ate museums, by employing his leisure hours in useful researches. His life was not less amiable than useful ; and his happy dis(>osition endeared him to his dependents, to society, and to his friends. After a long period of ill health, he attempted to return to lus native country, but it pleased God to take him during his voyage. He was born in this parish on the 10th of August 1755, and died on the 21st of June I8I0. 216 FORFARSHIRE. volumes of old parochial registers, comprising entries of the pro- clamation of the banns of marriage, baptisms, deaths, discipline, collections, and disbursements. These entries, however, are ex- ceedingly irregular, intermixed, and imperfect; and marriages, births, and burials, are entirely omitted; but in 1806 the mode of entry was altered, and a new arrangement adopted. A new set of registers, six in number, neatly bound and titled, were introduced in 1820. Vol. 1. contains an entry of the proclamation of the banns of marriage, and of the marriage itself; vol. 2. births and baptisms; vol. 3. deaths and burials; vol. 4. income; vol. 5. expenditure; vol. 6. discipline. All the volumes, twelve in number, including old and new, are carefully and regularly kept. Antiquities^ 8fc. — In the churchyard are to be found some tomb- stones of considerable antiquity. One is distinctly dated 1626, another 1630. A few, from the quality of the stone, the form of the letters, and the strange figures engraven on them, ap- pear to be somewhat older ; but the inscriptions which they bear are nearly effaced. There are also a few stones exhibiting un- known characters, apparently very old : and there are two other mo- numents, somewhat of a colossal kind, designed with much taste, and executed in a masterly style. But of all the sepulchral mo- numents, those erected in 1814, by and for the families of Brig- ton, Kinnettles, and Invereighty, are by far the largest, and the most substantial. — Not many yards distant from the south bank of the rivulet, stands a rising ground, somewhat conically shaped, which, from its having been, time immemorial, called Kirkhill, is generally supposed to have been at some remote period the site of a religious house. — After the parish church was filled with Protestants, the proprietor of Foffarty, aided by the Papists in the neighbourhood, set about building a popish chapel on his property, and appointed a priest to conduct the Romish service, to whom he gave a manse, offices, garden, glebe, and salary. That chapel was erected on the margin of a den at the foot of Kincaldrum hill. It was burnt by a par- ty of royal dragoons in 1745, and remained roofless and ruinous for many years. The area of the building, and a considerable por- tion of the walls, were distinctly visible so late as 1816. Then the ruins were dug up from the very foundation, and carried away to fill up drains. Mr Bower of Kincaldrum, a Roman Catholic, to- gether with the male part of his family, removed the stone which held the holy water, as a precious relict, to his own premises, where 4 KINNETTLES. 217 it is still to be seen. The glebe, which belonged to the priest, and which consisted of four Scotch acres, lay at no great distance from the chapel. It remained for many years unclaimed by any person, after the chapel had been burnt and deserted. Even after the Earl of Strathmore had purchased the lands of Foffarty, ho did not venture, for a considerable time, to break ground upon it, although it lay a kind of waste in the midst of his cultivated fields. At last, however, he did take possession of it, and bring it into cul- tivation. But as it was locally situated, with the other lands of Foffarty, in the parish of Caputh, the present minister of that pa- rish advanced his claim to it, once and again, between twenty and thirty years ago ; but lost it in the Court from the want of a charter, and from the want of occupancy. The whole lands of Foffarty being church lands, pay no minister's stipend, but hold cum deci^ mis inclusis. But although the chapel above described had been long burnt and deserted, the late Mr Bower of Kincaldrum did not renounce, but stedfastly adhered to, the Roman Catholic reli- gion: and he converted one of the rooms in the old mansion- house of Kinnettles (of which he was then proprietor) into a cha- pel, — erecting an altar in it, arid employing the Catholic priest of Dundee to officiate at stated times, when he himself, his family, and a few scattered Papists in the neighbourhood, attended wor- ship, and celebrated mass.* — In 1833, one of the ploughs in a grass- field, dug up in a pretty entire state of preservation, what an anti- quarian would be disposed to consider a great curiosity in this part of the kingdom, an " upper millstone of a hand-mill." It is 25^ inches in diameter, IJ inch thick, nearly quite circular, neatly hewn with the chisel, and displays the nicest workmanship around the small circular opening in the centre. The stone of which it is composed is mica-schist, has a leaden colour, contains a mixture of silicious spar, and is thickly studded with small garnets. It is probably of great antiquity. The mortar appears to have been the earliest instrument that was used in combination with the pes- tle, for grinding corn. But as this proces was very laborious, at- tended with little execution, and productive of the coarsest manu- facture, it was probably soon superseded by the invention of the mola manuaria^ or hand-mill, which was for ages worked by bond- men and bondwomen. As this mill was more effective, and fur- nished mecii of better quality than that produced by the mortar * The MS. contains a description of several coins of Jaines I.» George I., &c. found in the parish. 218 FORFARSHIRE. and the pestle, it was probably invented in the earliest ages. But, being originally imperfect and susceptible of improvement, it was gradually improved as the sphere of mechanical knowledge was enlarged. With a view to abridge manual labour, it came in pro- cess of time to be so constructed as to be worked by oxen and horses. This improved forjn of it appears to have existed at an early period ; for we find that moles jumentarice were employed from the very origin of the Roman republic. And as Strabo, Vitruvius, and Palladius inform us, that water-mills were introduced in the reign of Julius Caesar, hand-mills were probably laid aside about the beginning of the Christian era ; and, of course, the millstone above described, may be 1600 or 2000 years old. Modem buildinffs, — Most of the buildings in the parish are of modern erection. The church was built in 1812, of stone and lime, and roofed with blue slate. With the exception of the old man- sion-house of Kinnettles, a part of the large mansion-house of Brig- ton, the mansion-house of one of the farmers of Ingliston, the man- sion-house and mill of Invereighty, and the mill of Kinnettles, which was greatly enlarged and repaired in 1830, — all the man- sion-houses in the parish have been built within these fifty years. While those mansion-houses which were built upwards of fifty years ago are generally built of stone and clay, and covered partly with gray slates and partly with thatch ; those that have been built since are generally of stone and lime, and covered partly with gray slates, and partly with blue. But the mansion-houses of all the proprietors and of some of the farmers are covered with blue slates. The large and spacious spinning-mill at Douglastown four stories high, and of proportionate length and breadth, was built of stone and lime towards the end of the last century, and covered with blue slate. IIL — Population. In 1775, the population amounted, according to a pretty accurate statement, to GIG And in 1790 to . - - - 621 In 18G0, 260 males, 307 females. - - 567 1811, 242 280 - - 522 1821, 273 293 ... 566 1831, 246 301 - - 547 The causes of the decrease of population are, non-residence to a limited extent, emigration, enlarging of farms, and razing cottar- towns or hamlets, of which three, called the Frouchment, Cotton of Invereighty, and Cotton of Ingliston, were razed towards the end of the last century, while their inhabitants, amounting to upwards KINNETTLES. 219 of dOOy were driven from their habitations ; also the resorting of the poor and of operatives to towns, where they more readily find a residence, and where they meet with more employment and on easier terms than in the country. Number of the population residing in two villages, . . 214 in the country, . - 33:) The yearly average of marriages for the last 7 years, ^ . . 0^ of births, - - . . 16 of deaths, .... 9 The average number of persons under I d years of age, - . 197 betwixt 1.J and JJO, • . 143 l)etwixt &0 and 50, - - 134 betwixt 50 and 70, - - 56 upwards of 70, - - 17 The number of proprietors of land of the yearly value of Ij. 50 and upwards, 5 of families in the parish is - . . 106 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 35 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 51 Number of bachelors upwards of 50 years of age,* 6 ; of widow- ers, 4 ; of widows, 10 ; of unmarried women upwards of 45 years of age, 9 ; number of families, 106 ; average number of children in each family, 3^ g ; number of inhabited houses, 96 ; number of houses uninhabited, ; number of insane persons not natives, in the parish, 2 ; of fatuous 1 ; of blind, 2. Customs J Character of the People. — The dress of the people, if not the same as that of the English, must be allowed to be a very close imitation of it; and no class is so poor as not to have an abun- dance of plain, wholesome food. The people generally live in commodious houses, follow agreeable occupations, enjoy a compe- tency of the means of subsistence, live on friendly terms, and main- tain a reciprocal exchange of good offices. They bear generally a fair moral character ; nor are they inattentive to the duties of religion. The best proofs which they can give of the esti- mation in which they hold the Bible, and the character which it is calculated to form, are, their acquaintance with the Holy Scriptures, their observance of the Sabbath, their celebration of the sealing ordinances of the Gospel, and their earnest endeavour to conform their temper and conduct to- the example of Christ Poaching in game, and purchasing contraband spirits from the Grampian smugglers, long prevailed to a considerable extent in the parish ; but, through the vigilance and severity of the excise, they * A few years ago died a native of this parish named Boath, at the age of OS. Though not of great stature, he possessed extraordinary strength, and swiftness in running. He was at the same time of eccentric character. Instances of longevity are frequent in the parish. One man is going 93 years of age ; a husband and wire 87 each ; two gentlemen 80 each. 220 FORFARSHIRE. have several years ago been completely suppressed, and are now unknown. IV, — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of acres, standard imperial meaiure, in the parish, which are regularly cultivated, --..-. 2848 Number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly waste, -----__ 106 The number of acres that might, with a profitable application of capital, be added to the cultivated land of the parish, - - - - 106 The number of acres under planted wood in the parish, - - - 124 The kinds of trees generally planted are, Scots fir, silver fir, spruce, larch, oak, ash, elm, plane, beech, lime, birch, gean, hornbeam, poplar, chestnut, aspen, laburnum, hazel, willow. Their ma- nagement in general cannot be said to be the best, their thinning and pruning being but occasionally, partially, and imperfectly performed. Rental. — The valued rent of the parish in Scotch money is L. 1865, 3s. 4d. The gross rent of the parish, arising from arable land, L. 4162, 19s. Sterling; from village-houses and gardens, L. 138, 15s.; from cottar-houses and gardens, L. 51, 10s.; total, L. 4353, 4s. Rent ofLafuL — The average rent of arable land per acre in the parish, L. 1, 9s. 2f d. ; the average rent of grazing per acre, at the rate of 40s. per ox or cow grazed for the season, L. 2 ; at the rate of 10s. per ewe or full-grown sheep pastured for the year, L. 2. Husbandry. — The following may be considered as the rotations generally adopted throughout the parish. First rotation. 1. oals after grass; 2. green crop, with manure ; 3. barley, with grass-seeds ; 4. grass cut or pastured; 5. grass pastured. Second rotation. 1. oats after grass ; 2. oats a second time ; 3. green-crop, with ma- nure ; 4. barley ; 5. naked fallow : 6. wheat, with manure and gnass-seeds ; 7. grass, cut for hay ; 8. grass pastured. Third ro- tation. 1. barley after grass ; 2. turnips (with bone-dust) the one- Jialf being drawn, and the other half consumed with sheep ; 3. bar- ley, with grass-seeds ; 4. grtiss, cut or pastured ; 5. grass pastured. The following is a tabular view of the average extent annually sown, and of the average produce annually reaped, in the parish : Number of Average produce Aggregate produce Si>ccies of grain sowed. acres under in stand, imp. in standard impe- crop. measure per acre. rial quarters. 448 Quarters 1648 4 2552 2ft 24 47(X) Wheat, Barley, Oats, Rye, Pease, 112 412 638 7 6 1175 acres KINNETTLES. 221 Acres under turiiii)s, 280 ; under potatoes, 101 ; under sown- grass, 1178; under meadow-grass, 106; under fallow, 108. Implements of Husbandry^ §'c. — In the parish there are, gene- rally, carts, 35; ploughs, 35; harrows, 105; drill-harrows, 18; turnip-machines, 15; rollers, 18; fanners, 19; thrashing-mills, 8; meal-mills, 2 ; barley-mills, 1 ; spinning-mills, 1 ; yarn-mills, 2 ; chaises, 2; gigs, 3; cars, 1. Permanent Live-Stock, — Work-horses, 70 ; riding-horses, 16 ; fillies, 11; asses, 2; milch-cows, 104; cattle, 422; calves, 86; sheep, 320; swine, 64. Prices. — The average seUing prices of the different kinds of grain grown in the parish are as follows : wheat, 54s. ; barley, 27s. ; oats, 22s.; rye, 21s.; pease, 21s. per imperial quarter. The average price of different articles of parochial produce and manufacture required for the different purposes of niral and do- mestic economy : Oat-meal, per imperial stone. Is. 7d. ; bafley-meal, per ditto. Is. 4d. ; barley-flour, per ditto, Is. 7d. ; pot-barley, per ditto, 3s. 4d. ; cheese, per ditto, 6s. 6d. ; potatoes, per ditto, 3d. ; milk, per imperial quart, 2d.; butter, per imperial lb., 7d. ; honey, ditto, Is. ; eggs, per dozen, 6d. ; hens, per each. Is. 2d. ; chickens, ditto, 4d. This parish affords but little scope for the husbandry of sheep. About 320, however, are generally kept throughout the year by gentlemen and farmers, who keep them partly for do- mestic purposes, but chiefly for enriching their fields. The kinds kept are various. The proprietors of the parish usually keep in their lawns a small mixed flock of the Linton, South Down, and Merino breeds, which in summer are subsisted on grass, and in winter, partly on grass, and partly on turnips, hay, and straw ; and, from the excellent shelter afforded them, they thrive uncommonly well, and are generally very productive. Some« of the farmers keeping sheep, particularly in winter, more for the market than for family use, generally keep the Linton, Che- viot^ and Leicester breeds. In summer, such as keep them, graze them in their enclosures ; and in winter, when the great- est stock is kept, after drawing the one-half of their turnips in alternate drills, or in alternate doublets, they employ their sheep in consuming the other half, which they usually do, enclosed in nets or hurdles, provincially called flakes, constructed for the pur- pose, and which easily shift from one place to another. Along ■«« 222 FORFARSHIRE. with the turnips, they receive daily a quantity of hay or straw, which they eat from covered hecks. And if the winter prove dry and favourable, they are generally fed off, and found in excellent condition for the butcher by the month of April, when they bring from L. 1 to L. 1, 8s. per head. The complement being thus re- duced by the sale of the fat sheep, is made up partly by the re- maining ewes and lambs, and partly by purchases at the sheep- markets. The rearing, grazing, and feeding of cattle are favourite objects with our farmers, because they are profitable in regard to manure, as well as to money. But not rearing a number sufficient for consuming their grass and turnips, they supply the deficiency by purchases made at the several fairs, from the famed cattle-rear- ing counties of Mearns, Aberdeen, and Moray. If not sold at the end of the grazing season, they are fed off on turnips and straw during winter, and bring very high prices in the Edinburgh or Glasgow markets. As great attention is thus paid to rearing, graz- ing, and feeding, the parish contains a large and valuable stock of cattle. Besides a permanent and flying stock of cattle, the far- mers generally keep a considerable stock of cows, partly of the Angus, and partly of the Ayrshire breeds, for yielding milk for rearing calves, and for dairy purposes : And it is reckoned a very good cow that yields four or five imperial gallons of milk per day during the best of the season. DraminffjSfc. — About thirty years ago, there was a considerable extent of waste land in the parish ; but, by means of draining within these twenty-five years, it has been, with the exception of about 106 imperial acres of flat marshy ground along the northern extremity of the parish, subjected to the plough, and converted into corn land. And now that the trustees of the late Earl of Strathmore have wid- ened and deepened the great drain which extends from the loch of Forfar to the back of the Castle of Glammis, the whole waste land alluded to will be easily drained and reclaimed, and twenty acres of it will be under corn crop this season. In the course of two years, the whole superficial area of the parish, the rocky brow of the hill of Kinnettles only excepted, will be in an arable state. Seve- ral years ago, paring and burning were the two great expedients employed here in reclaiming waste land ; but, having been found, on experience, to reduce and deteriorate the most productive part of the soil, these have been laid aside for ten years in the improvement of waste land. The plan now generally adopted in reclaiming land of this description is, to plough it very deep, «3 KINNETTLES. 223 to let it lie in the ploughed state till the swardy furrows have rot- ted, next to cross plough it, and then to finish the process by break- ing and pulverizing it by the action of the harrow. — Irrigation, which in many cases meliorates the soil, is not attempted in the parish, because there is not a sufficiency of water convenient for the purpose, and because, though there were a sufficiency, the wa- t^r, owing to the intersected state of the fields by covered drains, would not extend, as was found by experiment in 1826, but sink down into the first intersection. — The only specimens of embank- ing in the parish are those raised on the banks of the Kerbit, to protect the adjacent flat fields from the violence of its destructive inundations ; and they have the desired effect In former times, when the land in the parish was far behind in cultivation, and when it required a considerable outlay on the part of the occupant to bring it into a proper productive state, the pro- prietors were accustomed to grant long leases, generally thirty-nine years, with the lifetime of the occupant after the years specified in his lease had expired. But as soon as the cultivation of their pro- perties had attained to a considerable degree of perfection, they, from a desire of regulating the progressive rise of rent by the progres- sive improvement of the times, abandoned this system of leases, first, by lopping off* the lifetime period after the stipulated number of years, and then by abridging the length of the lease to twenty-one years. , At the last general letting in the parish, the period was re- duced to nineteen years, which is now the duration of almost every lease in the parish, there being no liferenter in it since 1831. The complaint brought by many farmers in other districts of the county, against the backwardness of their landlords in affording them the necessary accommodations in respect of dwelling-houses and steadings, cannot with propriety be brought against the pro* prietors of this parish. On all their farms, exceeding ten imperial acres, commodious and substantial dwelling-houses and steadings have been erected. But although all the farm-steadings may be thus reported to be in a good state of repair, the same favourable report cannot be made of the farm-enclosures. The great bulk of the parish, indeed, is well enclosed with substantial stone-dikes ; but there are about 400 imperial acres on which there is hardly the shadow of an enclosure. Quarries. — The various kinds of quarries discovered and opened in the parish are of whinstone, sandstone, and greywacke flag, and slate. The whinstone, which appears under three varieties, is work- FORFAR. p L.6296 4 2036 242 10 i 2228 12 60 14 140 10 66 6 3 8 224 FORFARSHIRE. ed by the road trustees, for the purpose of furnishing metal for the turnpike and parish roads. The sandstone quarries are occasion- ally worked by the gentlemen to whom they belong, not for public sale, but for their own private architectural uses. And the grey- wacke flag and slate quarry is worked only by its proprietor for his own accommodation. Produce, — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is exhibited under the following heads : Produce of grain of all kinds, whether cultivated for food of man, or the domestic animals, - - - <• - Of potatoes and turnips, cultivated in the fields for food, Of hay, both cultivated and meadow, - - - Of land in pasture, rating it at L. 2 per cow, or full-grown ox, grazed for the season, or rating it at lOs. per ewe, or full-grown sheep, pas- tured for the year, .... Of gardens, - - - - Of the annual thinning and periodical felling of plantations. Of wool, - - - . - Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L. 1 1,070 11 o Manufactures. — The great manufactorj' in the parish is the spinning-mill of Douglastown, erected in 1792, and consisting of twelve horse-power, driven partly by water, and partly by steam, — the steam-engine being seven horse-power. It gives steady employment to 10 flax-dressers, 12 preparers, 16 spinners, 7 reelers, 2 turners, 1 steam-engineman, and 1 clerk, who superintends the whole establishment ; and, consisting of 14 frames, of t30 spindles each, it throws off" 234 spindles per day, and 1404 per week. The yarn is all manufactured into cloth, and exported by the tenant to fo- reign markets. The other branches of manufacture in the parish, with the number of hands employed in each, are as follows: — The number of hands employed in weaving osnaburgs, 5 males and 18 females ; hessians, 2 males and 1 female ; bleached sheet- ings, 5 males ; brown sheetings, 2 males ; in mill-spinning of yarn, 26 males and 23 females ; in washing yarn at 2 yarn-mills, 5 males and 2 females. In weaving these fabrics, men and women usually work five days per week, and fifteen hours per day. In conducting the spinning of yarn at the spinning-mill of Douglastown, the men, wom^n, and children, by whom that branch of manufacture is conducted, usual- ly work six days per week, and, now that the Factory Bill is in operation, twelve hours per day, except Saturday, when they cease working at three o'clock in the afternoon. Whether these manufactures afford a fair remuneration and KINNETTLES. 225 support to those engaged in them, may be ascertained from the following statement : — The average rate of weaving a web of osna- burgs, 150 yards long, 8s.; of hessians, 124 yards long, 8s.; of bleached sheetings, 110 yards long, 14s.; of brown sheetings, 104 yards long^ 1 Is, Thus it appears, that, when provisions are mode- rate in price, the manufacturer, by receiving 2s. 9^d. per day for his highest manufacture, (which he weaves in five days,) and Is. 7d. for the lowest, is comparatively pretty well remunerated for his labour ; and, since the males employed in the said spinning-mill receive each on an average 2s. 3d. per day, and the females 4s. 6d. per week, they are enabled to live in a tolerably comfortable state. Mill-spinning and weaving, from the long daily confinement at- tending them, the imperfect ventilation of manufacturing houses, and noxious flaxen dust inhaled into the lungs in respiration, — seldom fail to produce bad effects on the constitution ; disposing those that are exposed to them to assume prematurely the pale emaciated countenance, and to contract asthmatical and dropsical diseases, which not unfrequently adhere to them through life. Spinning-mills and manufacturing shops, in which many young of both sexes are frequently blended together, have, at the same time, not always the best effect on the morals of youth. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Town. — The nearest market-town is Glammis, where three cattle and sheep-markets are periodically held in the course of the year. At Forfar, the county-town, distant about three miles, seven or eight markets are periodicaHy held during the year, for cattle, horses, and sheep. Besides, a cattle-market, commonly called the crafts^ is held on every Wednesday from Martinmas to the mid- dle of April ; and a weekly market every Saturday for butter, cheese, eggs, and poultry. Villages. — There are two villages in the parish. Douglastown, so called from the late Mr Douglas of Brigton, was erected by that gentleman and his partners, at a great expense, in 1792, chiefly for the accommodation of the hands employed at the spinning-mill. It, however, contains a vintner, a blacksmith, a shoemaker, two tailors, a cloth and grocery merchant, various mechanics, and a population of 162 persons. — The other village is the Kirktown, a small but handsome village, built in 1813, and containing, in a population of 52 persons, the parish schoolmaster, a female teacher of sewing and fancy-work, a carpenter, a grocery merchant, and various mechanics. 226 FORFARSHIRE. Means of Communicatioru — The means of communication en- joyed by the parish are various. 1. Although it has no post-office, yet letters, newspapers, and parcels are regularly brought to and car- ried from the inn at Douglastown by the post, which runs daily be- twixt Forfar and Glanmiis* 2. The Strathmore turnpike-road passes, upwards of two miles, nearly through the centre of the parish ; and the turnpike-road betwixt Dundee and Forfar passes, nearly a mile, through the eastern parts of the parish. 3. The Defiance coach, which runs between Edinburgh and Aberdeen, travels every lawful day on the Strathmore turnpike-road, and also the Glasgow carrier once a-week ; and on the turnpike-road betwixt Dundee and Forfar, travel, every lawful day, the Union and Sir Henry Parnell coaches, betwixt Edinburgh and Aberdeen, via Fife ; be- sides other public carriages betwixt Dundee and Forfar on stated days of the week. 4. There are, in different parts of the parish, five arched and parapeted bridges, built with stone and lime, and one chain-bridge across the Kerbit at the Kirktown. The hand- some stone bridge across the Kerbit at Douglastown, and consist- ing of three arches, was erected in 1770: two of one arch each, and two consisting of two arches each, across the Spittle-bum, were built neatly and substantially towards the end of the last century. These bridges are in good condition. — The fences, partly thorn- hedges, but chiefly dry-stone dikes, are generally in good con- dition. Ecclesiastical State. — Owing to the hill of Brigton and Kinnettles rising nearly in the centre of the parish, it was judged by our fore- fathers to be inexpedient to build the parish church in a centrical place; but, although it stands at the south-west side of the hill, and consequently near to the western extremity of the parish, it is not inconvenient for any part of the population, being nearly centrical between the northern and southern extremities of the parish, and not exceeding two miles from the remotest comer, while that dis- tance is considerably diminished by means of a kirk-road along the top of the hill. The church was built in 1812, solely at the expense of the heri- tors, the parishioners contributing not so much as a single carriage towards its erection. From its having been so recently built, and that, too, in a neat, commodious, and substantial style, it is at pre- sent in a state of tolerably good repair. The church, galleried upon the principles of modern architec- ture, affords accommodation for 420 sitters. The free sittings are, KINNETTLES. 227 the front seat of all the galleries, accommodating thirty-six sitters, and reserved by the heritors for themselves and their families ; one seat, on the ground floor, for the minister's family, accommodating six sitters ; and one seat, also on the ground floor, for the elders, accommodating six sitters. All the other seats are let annually at 2s. per sitter. The communion-table, which is neat and commo- dious, extends, with the exception of the east and west passages, the whole length of the church, and accommodates fifty communi- cants at each service. The manse was built in 1801 ; repaired in 1807 and 1811 ; and, owing to its small size and superficial workmanship, cannot be said to be in a good state of repair at present But, from the disposi- tion of the heritors to grant comfortable accommodation, hopes are entertained of its being enlarged and repaired in the course of the season. The glebe contains 8^ imperial acres, and is now all arable. Its annual value is not easily ascertained. Consisting of various kinds of soil, and containing two acres of poor gravel, it cannot be esti- mated at more th:in L. 12, 15s. per annum, which is at the rate of L. 1, 10s. per acre. Hence the glebe, though an accommoda- tion, is by no means a profit to the incumbent As the teinds of the parish were at different periods all valued in money at a very low rate, they fell short of the minimum stipend by L. 30, Is. yearly ; but the deficiency is made up by the Govern- ment bounty. The number of families attending the Established church is 102; the number of persons of all ages attending the Established church, 530 ; the number attending the chapels of Dissenters and Sece- ders, 2; of Episcopalians, 16. Divine service at the Established church is generally well attended. The average number of com- municants at the Established church, 240. The average amount of church collections yearly, for religious and charitable objects, L. 22, 7s. 3d. Education, — There are two schools in the parish, the parochial and a sewing school. The branches of instruction taught in the parochial school are, English reading, writing, arithmetic, book- keeping, the elements of algebra and mathematics, English grammar, geography, Latin, and French. The branches taught in the female school are, English readings and several varieties of needle and fancy work. The salary of the schoolmaster is 228 FORFARSHIRE. L. 34, 4s. 4|d. As the school is always well attended, the school- fees amount, on an average, to L. 50 a-year, which, with the salary and perquisites, realize an income of about L. 84, 4s. 4^d. per an- num, and, of course, aflFord a pretty fair remuneration for the ar- duous labour of teaching a parochial school. The income of the schoolmistress, however, is disproportionate. She has, indeed, a free house and garden, but no salary. With the exception of her house and garden, which she holds by grant from the benevolent family of Kinnettles, she is left entirely to depend on her preca- rious school-fees. But, by her attention and accomplishments, she has hitherto been enabled to earn a tolerably comfortable live- lihood. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodations. He has a well-finished two-story dwelling-house, an excellent school-room, and two bolls of oatmeal in lieu of a garden. The four rates of school-fees, fixed about thirty years ago by the competent judges, are, per quarter, 2s. 6d. for beginners ; 3s. for reading and writing ; 4s. for arithmetic ; and 5s. for the learned languages ; but, as teachers in general have the practice of mul- tiplying books in the hands of their scholars, the quarter fees sel- dom amount to much more than one-half of the total expense of education per quarter. All young persons in the parish betwixt six and fifteen years of age can read, and nearly all write also ; and the number of per- sons in the parish, upwards of fifteen years of age, who can neither read nor write, is only 1. The people, in general, are alive to the benefits of education ; and parents, in particular, make great ex- ertions to have their children well educated. The total number of scholars at school in the parish is 1 12. Poor and Parochial Funds, — Public begging is unknown in the parish. Its paupers are all supported by the parish funds; and the average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 6. The average sum allotted to the first is 3s. per month ; to the second, 3s. 6d. ; to the third, 4s.; to the fourth, 5s.; to the fifth, 10s. ; to the sixth, L. 1, Is. 8fl. The whole monthly expenditure, L. 2, 7s. 2d. ; yearly, L. 28j 6s. The contributions to the parochial funds arise from various sources ; as follows: The annual average amount of church collections, L. 22, 7s. 3d.; mortcloth dues, L. 1, 7s. lO^d. ; civil penalties, L. 1, 5s. S^d. ; marriage proclamations, 6s. 2d. ; — amount of annual income, L. 25, 6s. 1 1 Jd. But, as the expenditure KINNETTLES. 229 exceeds the income, the deficiency is made up, sometimes by draw- ing on a small fund created in better times, and sometimes by oc- casional extraordinary collections at the church. Besides, the late Mr James Maxwell, mill-wright, who was bom, and lived in the parish till within a few years of his death, bequeathed, in a most charitable and exemplary manner, about four years ago, L. 50, subject to the legacy-duty, to be distributed, within a specific pe- riod, in coals, among the poor of the parish ; and from this bequest, the poor have derived, and will continue for several years to de- rive, much comfort and relief during the inclemency of winter. By a judicious application of these resources, the managers of the poor have as yet been enabled to go on without allowing any parochial begging, and without calling in the aid of an assessment. In former times, the Scottish spirit, generally, could not brook the idea of seeking parochial relief; but this spirit of independ- ence has now been greatly and generally abated. Inns and Alehouses, — Prior to Martinmas 1833, there was one inn and one alehouse in the parish, both situated on the Strathmore turnpike-road ; but the alehouse has since been abolished. Fuel, — For ages, peat and wood, whin and broom, constituted the fuel of the parish ; but now, that the neighbouring peat-mosses are nearly exhausted, and whins and broom nearly exterminated, the ordinary fuel is wood and coal in summer, and coal, with a small proportion of wood, in winter. Both English and Scotch coals are used; but the English chiefly. These coals are pro- cured at Dundee, twelve miles distant; the English at from 4s. to 6s. per 6 cwt or 1 boll of 42 imperial stones ; and the Scotch at from 4s. 8d. to 6s. 8d. per 6 cwt or 1 boll of 42 imperial stones. The ordinary price of driving 6 cwt. or 1 boll of coals from Dundee to the parish is 3s. Hence the necessity of a ca- nal, or efficient railway, from some of the sea-port towns into the interior of the country. Miscellaneous Observations. In 1792, the best arable land in the parish was rented at L. 1, 5s. per Scottish acre; but now it is rented at L. 2, 1 Is. 5d. — a fact which shows that the value of land is still more than double of what it was at the publication of the last Statistical Account. In 1792, a male-servant's yearly wages, including L. 8 in money, and L. 6, lis. 5d. the estimated value of maintenance was L. 14, 1 Is. 5d.; but now, including L. 10, 15s. in money, and L. 9, 15s. lOd., the esti- 230 FORFARSHIRE. mated value of maintenance, it is L.20, 10s. lOd. In 1792, a fe- male-servant's yearly wage, including L. 3 in money, and L. 4, 6s« 8d. the estimated value of maintenance, was L. 7, -Gs. 8d. ; now it is, including L. 5, 15s. in money, and L.6, 8s. 2^d. the estimat- ed value of maintenance, L. 12, Ss. 2^d. In 1792, the wages of a day-labourer per day, without victuals, were Is. Id. ; of a car- penter. Is. 4d. and of a mason. Is. 6d. ; now the wages of a day- labourer, without victuals, are Is. lOd. ; of a carpenter, 2s. ; and of- a mason 2s. 6d. Comparing the fiars prices of grain, as struck at Forfar for crop 1833, with the prices of grain in 1792, it is found that wheat, barley, and oats, are a^ low-priced at present as they were forty years ago. The general aspect of the parish, as well artificial as natural, has unquestionably been much improved within the last forty years. Many parts of it which were then wet have been drained ; many wastes reclaimed, and at least 300 acres brought from a state of nature into a state of cultivation, while about 20 acres have been added to the plantations. Farming, in all its branches, is conducted upon the most approved principles, by a body of men who are gene- rally enlightened practical farmers. Formerly, the rotations of cropping prescribed to the tenants were often found to be disad- vantageous ; but now the farmers enjoy a more liberal system of cropping, and are tied down by no rotations that are hurtful either to themselves or their farms. Formerly, flax, pease, and beans, were cultivated to great extent, but the first being found to be a scourging crop, and the two last to encourage foulness, have been almost completely laid aside. By adopting the system of alternate husbandry in corn crop, green crop, and grass, and by applying lime and marl, with a proportionate quantity of dung, the farmers have generally put the arable land in excellent con- dition. Hence there is not only a greater extent put under corn crop, green crop, and artificial grasses, but the same extent yields a produce very much superior, both in quantity and quality, to the produce of former times. Indeed, it may with safety be said that the produce of grain and green-crop is about double of what it was in 1792. Since that period, the progress of agriculture has been rapid. This rapidity has in no small degree been promoted by the introduction of some valuable machines, and by the adop- tion of new modes of growing and consuming turnips. Besides, the arrangement of the former enclosures has been greatly alter- KINNETTLES. 231 ed ; many new fences have been erected, and the whole system of enclosing, so far as it goes, has been very much improved. Within these twenty years, the cottages and village-houses, many of which have a but and a ben^ have in general been made comfortable to their inhabitants, and let at rents ranging from L. I, 5s. to L.2, IDs. per house and garden. Within the same period the farm-houses, with the offices thiereto attached, have been generally put in excellent order, and are found to afford ample and commodious accommodation. Forty years ago, personal services were exacted and performed in the parish. Occupiers of a house and garden, or of a house and^ garden with one or two acres of land, performed some days work occasionally, as the proprietor might happen to require them in the course of the year. Such tenants as possessed ground sufficient to enable them to keep a horse, besides the above services, were bound to perform two horseback carriages in the course of the year, as far as Dundee, which is distant about twelve miles, or to a similar distance. Greater tenants were bound to convey a certain number of bolls of coals from Dundee to the proprietors' houses, which re- quired two or three days' work of their men, horses, and carts. They were likewise bound to give a day's work of all their reapers, commonly called a bonage^ for cutting down the proprietor's corns. Besides, they were bound to give annually so many spindles of yam, so many poultry, called kain^ and were restricted to particular meal- mills, where they were obliged to pay heavy multures, and to per- form mill services. From these rigorous remains of feudal slavery, the inhabitants of the parish are now happily set at liberty. — About twenty years ago, females were chiefly employed in working the spinning-wheel: but this useful and congenial employment has now been completely stopped. On the introduction, however, of the spinning-mill, which banished from the parish at least 250 spinning-wheels, females betook themselves, some to the easier parts of agriculture, some to the yarn-mill, some to the spinning- mill, some to sewing and knitting, and some, especially the aged, to the filling of pirns, and not a few to the loom : and now they are better fed and better clothed than they were in the days of the spinning-wheel. Improvements recommended. — It would certainly be a great im- provement to plough every field, as it comes periodically into a state of fallow or green crop, with a trench-plough, which, by pe- netrating the subsoil, would bring up a fresh mould that would 232 FORFARSHIRE. strengthen the soil, and render it more absorbent of rain, and more impervious to drought Since the large drain between the Castle of Glammis and the Loch of Forfar, which was opened about sixty years ago, and which extends about 2 miles in length, has been re- cently deepened and widened, about 106 acres of meadow and mossy land, running parallel with the northern boundary of the parish, will be easily brought into a state of tillage, — 20 acres of which have been drained and put under corn-crop this season. This will make a valuable acquisition to the arable land. Much still remains to be done also in the way of enclosing, and in thinning and prun- ing of plantations. — Although turnips and potatoes, of excellent quality, and in great abundance, are grown in the parish, yet there seems to be here, as well as in the county at large, a great deside- ratum in the mode of preserving them in good condition. On an ave- rage, one-tenth of the turnips may be said to be annually destroy- ed by frost ; and potatoes, which, as an article of food, are so use- ful to the inhabitants of the island, become unpleasant and rather unwholesome food by the middle of the month of April. * Obstacles to Improvement, — One of the great obstacles to the im- provement of the husbandry and manufactures of the parish is its distance from a sea-port, Dundee being 12 miles distant This distance, over a succession of hills and dales, occasions long and expensive carriages, accompanied with a great deal of tear and * To thesti two great evils the following simple remedies might be a})p1ie(i with success. Those turnip fields which are designed for consumption by sheep should be consumed before the severity of winter sets in ; and a great proportion of those that are designed to stand over the winter, for the benefit of young stock, milch-cows, and the feeding-byre, should be pulled in the beginning of winter, carted home, di- vested of their stems, piled up in a heap, and carefully thatched and roped. By tliese means they would be secured from the effects of frost, and preserved in good con- dition till the commencement of grazing — With a view to prolong the season of potatoes, the following scheme is humbly proposed. Every potatoc-grower should select a dry rising ground, in which he should dig a pit 6 or 8 feet deep, 6 feet wide, and proportioned m length to the qiuintity to be stored ; should face up the sides and ends with stone from top to bottom : should deposit the potatoes in it, cover it over with thin stone flags, and then lay over it a quantity of earth to the depth of four feet, for the purpose of excluding all air and rain from themj and, of course, for preventing their vegetation. In order that the owner of the depository niny have a fresh supply of potatoes weekly, or at pleasure, a small stone-built and eartiicn- covered passage should be constructed at one of the ends of the depository, (the lower end being preferable,) and closely built up with turf at the outer end, for the purpose of excluding air from the depository. If a dry bank cannot 1>e found for the construc- tion of such a depository, an artificial mound of earth should be raised, and a depo- sitory constructed in it as above described. In whichsoever of these ways the depo- sitory may be constructed, it behoves to be made perfectly dry by means of an under drain. Such a depository may be somewhat expensive in the construction ; but, when once constructed, it would serve the purpose in all time coming. By means of this simple scheme, potatoes might be preserved from sprouting, and the season of their freshness prolonged till they ushered in the new potatoes. KINNETTLES. 233 wear. With the exception of some parcels of oats sold to the home millers, the whole disposable grain of the parish is driven, partly to Arbroath, but chiefly to Dundee, whence all the coal, lime, foreign wood, salt, iron, flax, seeds, and groceries, which the parish requires, are transported with carts. These grievances would have been completely redressed, had the canal between Ar- broath and Forfar, projected, surveyed, and estimated by the town- councils of these boroughs in 1817, been carried into execution. But this practicable and useful scheme of inland navigation was completely overruled, at a county-meeting, by a number of gen- tlemen who, with a view to promote the trade of Dundee, proposed the plan of the railway between Dundee and Newtyle, which is now open and in full operation. But, in consequence of its being opened towards the western extremity of the county, it is of no benefit what- ever to this parish. Of this defect the trustees on that road are aware ; and, with a view to supply it, are proposing to extend the railway through Strathmore to Glammis. But although this proposal were executed, the railway would still be of little benefit to the parish, because its circuitousness would render the road very long, and, consequently, would increase the rate of carriage so much, that there would be little difference between driving to and from Dundee with carts and the railway waggons. If, on the contrary, the canal above-mentioned, or a railway between Arbroath and Forfar, had been executed, they would, on account of their easy extension to Cupar- Angus, have afforded increased facilities of tra- velling, and have brought many commercial advantages to all the neighbouring districts. January 1835. PARISH OF INVERARTTY.i PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. GEORGE LOUDON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — Under this name are comprehended the contiguous and united parishes of Inverarity and Meathie. Like most pa- rishes in Scotland, where the Celtic language formerly prevailed, it seems to owe its name to its particular locality. The situa- tion of the church generally suggested its own appellation, and that of the whole parish to which it belonged : and it appears to have done so in the present case. For till 1754, when it was built on its pre- sent site, the church of Inverarity had, for a considerable period at least, been situated near the present house of Fothringham; at a small distance from which, the river Arity, running from east to west, is joined almost at right angles by the Corbie Burn. The name of this parish, therefore, refers to that spot where the Arity and Corbie Burn form one river. ExteiU and Boundaries. — The parish is about 3 miles square. It is bounded on the north by the parish of Forfar ; on the south by the parishes of Monikie and Murroes ; on the east by those of Guthrie and Dunnichen ; and on the west by Kinneftles, Tealing, and Glammis. Its figure approaches that of a circle, the circum- ference of which forms, in general, an elevated boundary, from which the radii descending, may be conceived to meet at the centre, occupied by the church. Topographical Appearances. — Although consisting principally of a valley or little strath, yet none of its crowning eminences can claim the name of mountains. But, " si parva componere mjignis liceat," from whatever point the traveller approaches this valley, he may be conceived to experience, in some degree, sensations re- sembling his who, having crossed the rugged Alps, finds himself at length descending to the tranquil plains of Italy, watered by the Po, and sheltered by the Apennines ; for, on almost every side are INVERARITY. 235 wooded hills, such as Fothringham, Kincaldrum, Lawrence, and Carrot, — ascending gently from the valley, and terminating the landscape as it receded to the horizon. From its natural position, this parish contains no small portion of low flat land, admitting of the best divisions for agricultural convenience and ornamental land- scape. Climate, §*c. — The atmosphere, from the neighbourhood of the parish to the coast, and its comparatively low situation, is in spring and autumn often foggy ; but during the other seasons is mild and dry. The east wind, blowing almost directly from the sea, pre- vails in the early part of the year, and, towards evening, fre- quently during summer. Freestone and gray-slate quarries abound here, and are con- verted to the most useful purposes. The soil is various, — prin- cipally clay, — in many parts alluvial, and rests upon beds of freestone or slate ; and in the more elevated districts, a dark loam, on sand- coloured freestone. Roe-deer abound in the parish, and find a ready shelter in the numerous young plantations. The birds mentioned in the former Account, such as dotterel, rails, wood and black-cock, still visit, and abound in, the parish. The small squirrel, not noticed in the former Account, is found on Fothringham hill. Botany, — There are many plants here, though not of a kind peculiar to the place. On Fothringham hill, Trienialis Europcea, Oxalis acetoseHaj Vaccinium Vitis Idea* In other parts of the parish. Erica tetralix, Veronica beccabunga. Ranunculus, Meny^ anthes trifoliata, Pamassia palustris, &c There has been a very great increase of plantations since the last account of the parish was written^ The property of Fothringham is ornamented with extensive and varied plantations, consisting of oak, beech, plane, spruce, ash, larch, and Scots fir. Near the house of Fothring- ham are several beech trees of very large size; and the approach to it from the south, through a winding den, presents clumps of spruce trees of distinguished beauty. On the other properties, the greatest attention has been paid to the improvement of waste land, and to the ornamenting of enclosures and fields, by plantations, and with handsome trees. In this respect, Colonel Lawrenson, of Inverighty, has earned a just claim to distinction in this district for his judicious and successful disposal of such trees, of consider- able size, as are both suited to the soil, and an ornament to the neighbourhood. The soil, indeed, seems well fitted for trees in 236 FORFARSHIRE. general ; and the thriving plantations, which, at the publication of the former Account, had not commenced their growth, prove that every encouragement is held out to continued perseverance in such improvements. II. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Among those who have reflected honour on this, the place of their birth, we may mention James Webster, Esq. Student of the Inner Temple, fifth son of the Rev. John Webster, minister of this parish. After discovering great acute- ness and ardour, and securing the highest opinion of his instructors, in the prosecution of his academical studies in Scotland, this yoiing gentleman, with a view to practise at the English Bar, be- took himself to his studies at the Inner Temple. The pious im- pressions of his earliest life afterwards prompted him to pay a visit to the countries of the east. With this object he travelled to the continent ; visited Egypt, and parts of Turkey ; and, with increasing ardour, at last, set off for Mount Sinai, and ascended its memorable heights. The effect of this fatiguing expedition, however, on his return to Cairo, was a fever, which, in a few days, cut him off. * Land-owners. — The chief land-owners are. Colonel Fothring- ham, Robert S. Graham, Esq., and Captain Lawrenson. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers, consisting of four volumes, regularly kept, commence in the year 1710. Antiquities. — As mentioned in the former Account, there is a Roman camp, called " Haer Faads," in one extremity of the pa- rish, or rather partly in the parish of Guthrie, on the property of Carbuddo. The outer ditch and rampart can still be traced, though the ground is now planted and covered with wood. It possesses the rectangular parallelogram of the Roman camps. Several tu- muli are met with on the ridges of the hills, containing, when ex- amined, stone coffins and charred bones, as in other parts of Scot- land. III. — Population. The ancient population was greater than the present ; being, about 100 years ago, 996. At that period, many cottars were at- tached to farms that do not now require them. The improved state of agriculture, and the enlargement of farms, have rendered fewer * A Memoir of his life has been prefixed to an account of his Travels : and re- mains, as a faint delineation to his parent and friends, of the many valuable qualities, which his character and talents already possessed. 3 INVEUARITY. 237 hands necessary for the labours of the field, and led many families to betake themselves to towns. The whole population resides in the country. Under 15 years of age, the number of persons may be - - 560 Between 1*5 and 30, the number may be - - - 140 aO and 50, - - • - - 120 50 and 70, - - - - - 46 Upwards of 70, ... - - 20 The average annual births for the last 7 years may be stated at - - 20 deaths, - - - - - 10 marriages, . - - . 9 Thenumberof families in the parish is -" - 176 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 81 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 52 The only families of independent fortune residing in the parish are those of Fothringham and Kincaldrum. The number of pro- prietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 is 5. The number of bachelors and widowers upwards of fifty years of age is 1 1 ; and of unmarried women upwards of forty-five, 10. The average num- ber of children in each family may be stated at 3. The peo- ple are of an ordinary size, — few of them tall. There is one deaf and dumb boy, and one deaf and dumb girl. The boy has been well educated at the institution in Edinburgh ; the girl is a mere child. The inhabitants are a contented people ; disposed to re- vere the institutions of religion, and distinguished for their morals and good conduct. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — The number of cultivated acres in the parish is about 4000. The number of acres of waste or uncultivated ground, consisting of plantations, moor, &c. may be stated at 2000. The number of acres under wood may be about 1000. The trees generally planted are, larch, spruce, plane, beech, Scots fir, and oak. There is much more attention paid to thinning, periodical felling, and judicious pruning, than formerly, there being sales of wood about twice a-year. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land is L. 1. The average grazing for an ox or cow is L. 2. Husbandry. — The common breed of cattle is what is denomi- nated the Angus, or black-cattle of the county, which, from the Associations for the improvement of stock in this country, is rapidly improving. The husbandry is that pursued in the most agricul- tural parts of the country. As the parish has been almost com- pletely drained, and the farms almost all subdivided, and enclosed by stone dikes or hedges, little is left for original improvement of waste ground. Nineteen years form the duration of leases. \ ..13500 1136 1505 1100 100 238 FORFARSHIRE. Produce. — The yearly raw produce of the parish may be esti^ mated as follows : Oats, barley, and wheat, 12,290 bolls. Potatoes, turnips, ... Hay, cultivated, - - - Pasture grassy ... Annual sales of wood, L. 17341 V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeUTown. — The nearest market-town is Forfar, four miles distant. A turnpike-road from Forfar to Dundee passes through the parish, for four miles. Two public coaches travel on the road daily, one from Aberdeen to Edinburgh, the other from Brechin to Dundee. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is conveniently situated for the parishioners, being three miles from the extreme points of the parish. It was built in 1754, is in a good state of repair, and can accommodate 600 persons. The manse was built long ago, but has been enlarged and repaired at different periods. The last alterations and additions were made in 1831, soon after the admis- sion of the present incumbent. The glebe is upwards of twelve acres in extent, equal in quality to the average land of the parish. In 1813, the Court give a stipend of 14 chalders, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. All the families in the parish attend tlie Established church except six ; consisting of four Independents, five Seceders, and three Episcopa- lians. The Established church is well attended, and the people are much attached to our national establishment. The communicants amount to about 400. The amount of church collections for cha- ritable and religious purposes annually is about L. 6. Education, — There are two schools in the parish, the parochial and a private one, taught by a female. In both, English and writ- ing are taught ; in the parish school, Latin and the ordinary branches of education. Tlie salary of the parochial teacher is the maximum ; and the yearly amount of his school fees is about L. 27. The school fees vary from 2s. to lOs, 6d. per quarter. There are no persons, from six to fifteen years of age, who cannot read. The parents, in general, have a becoming sense of the value of education. Some parts of the parish are pretty far from the parish school, but there is a subscription school in the neighbourhood. The total number of scholars at schools in the parish is 80 ; but there are also about 30 attending schools on the borders of the parish. INVERKEILOR. 239 Poor and Parochial Fufids. — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid is 15, at the rate of L. 3 a-year each. The amount of collections for their relief, being those in church only, is, on an average, L. 50. But the proprietors on whose ground they reside furnish many comforts to the poor, which lessen their claims on the poors fund of the parish. They do not generally apply to the fund of the parish till necessity compels them ; and, even then, they attach a degree of degradation to their allowance. Ahhotises — There are four alehouses in the parish, at present, which have no good effect on the morals of the people. January 1835. PARISH OF INVERKEILOR. PRESBYTERY OF ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ALEXANDER CARNEGIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — It appears from a charter describing the lands of Boy- sack, that the ancient name of this parish was Conghoillis. The name Inverkeilor describes the situation of the parish at the mouth of the Keilor^ — a rivulet which empties itself into the sea about a mile south from the village, at the southern termination of the bay of Lunan. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is of an oblong form, ex- tending from the sea westward about 7 miles. Its greatest breadth is from Gighty burn, its north boundary, to the bold rocky shore that bounds the land on the south, about 4^ miles. It gra- dually becomes narrower as it extends westward, and its medium bceadth may be about 2^ miles. Topograpkieal Appearances. — It is in general pretty level, ex- cept on the north side of the river Lunan, from which the ground rises, foranng a gently sloping bank of good arable land; and from the south side of the Keilor the ascent is gradual till it ter- minates in the high rocky coast, where there is a remarkable pro- montory, the Redhead, 45 fathoms in height. It is seen at a great distance from sea, and abounds with a variety of sea-fowls. The extent of coast in this parish, from the mouth of the Lunan round FORFAR. Q 240 FORFARSHIRE. to near the fishing village of Airthmithie, is from 5 to 6 miles. That part of it along the bay of Lunan (which affords a safe an- chorage for ships, except when the wind blows from any point of the east,) is fiat firm sand, over which the tide flows till it reaches a sandy bank overgrown with bent Frqm this point there is a beau- tiful extent of table land westward betwixt the Lunan and the Keilor, where the soil is of a free fertile quality; but on the other side of both the Lunan and the Keilor it is of a deep rich loam. The climate is good, and the soil, being of a fertile quality, has encour- aged the landlords and tenants to drain the land completely, so that the air is pure and salubrious ; and we have no very prevalent distemper. Hydrography. — The river Lunan has its source from a well near Forfar, called Lunan Well; it passes through a chain of lochs, viz. Restenet, Rescobie, and Balgaves, and is in its course fed by several burns. It then runs eastward through this parish with a clear current, and, after a variety of beautiful windings, falls into the sea at Redcastle in Lunan bay. On the north side of the Lunan there is no quarry of freestone ; only a hard bluish whinstone, very useful for road-making : but between the Lunan and Keilor, quar- ries of fine freestone fit for hewn work abound. Geology, — The prevailing rock in the parish is red sandstone, intermingled with trap and porphyry rocks. Of these there is a fine display at the Red Head. Agates are found in the trap rocks ; and the rocks of this district are used in building, and for road- making. Dr Fleming and Professor Jameson have described the geology of the Red Head. n. — Civil History. Land-^tcners. — The land-owners are the Earl of Northesk, Lord Panmure, Messrs F. L. Carnegie, Rait, Johnstone, and Skair. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers of this parish com- mence in the year 1739; since which period they have been regular- ly kept Antiquities. — At the mouth of the Lunan, upon an eminence that rises almost perpendicular on the side of the sea, and is steep all round, stands an old venerable ruin, named Redcastle, which tradition represents to have been a royal hunting seat ; and the names of some adjacent farms are supposed to give it coun- tenance. But if ever this was the case, it must have been at some very early period ; for Chalmers in his Caledonia, quotes a chartulary of Abroath, which ascribes the building of Redcastle INVEKKEILOR. 241 to Walter de Berkley, in the reign of William the Lion, who was therefore called the Lord of Redcastle. About a mile north-east from Ethie House, the seat of the Earl of Northesk and near the sea, stand the remains of a church with an enclosed burying-ground around it. It is called St Mur- doch's chapel. A considerable part of the walls is still standing. It is said to have been a parish church. Ethie House was built 'by Cardinal Beaton, and was his residence. At a place called Chapelton, nearly three miles west from the church, there are the remains of a chapelry of Quytefield, now the burying-ground of the family of Boysack. Modem Buildings. — There are five spinning mills in the parish driven by water, and partly by steam. They manufacture flax brought from the Baltic at a cheaper rate than it can be grown in this country. Their hours of working are regulated by the late act of Parliament III. — Population. In Dr Webster's report, the amount of the population is 1286 : but it has since increased, as agricultural improvements advanced ; for at the period of the former Statistical Account, the number was 1747, and in the year 1821 it was 1785. But the amount by the census of 1831 is only 1655, showing a decrease of 130. The accidental absence of a few families may account for the diminu- tion in part, but the principal cause appears to be the tendency in all agricultural populations to fall off*, in consequence of agricul- tural improvements. Besides, the old lint-mills on the Lunan, which formerly gave employment to numbers, are now very little employed. Nor does spinning with the hand or weaving af- ford sufficient encouragement to the many who are thrown upon that resource, to continue in the country, at a distance from the advantages they have in a town. Of late, too, it has become cus- tomary, as a precaution against pauperism, to take down every house not necessary for carrying on the operations of the farm. The village of Inverkeilor contains 30 families in separate houses. As far as can be judged from the register, the yearly average for the three preceding years is of births, 45, — of mortcloths, 34^ but there may be ten or twelve of these used at funerals from other parishes, — and of proclamations for marriage, 20; but when the parties belong to different parishes, proclamation is made in both. 242 FORFARSHIRE. The average number of persons under 15 years of age, - - 605 betwixt 15 and aO ... 442 80 and 50 - . 362 50 and 70 - - . 193 upwards of 70 - - - 53 The number of fomilies in the parish, - ... 375 chiefly employed in agriculture, - 130 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 114 IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — There are about 6000 Scotcli acres in cultivation, and about 100 acres in waste and pasture, very little fit for cultivation, but not unsuitable for planting. About 1 12 Scotch acres are under wood, of which about 12 are in hard-wood, such as plane, beech, oak, elm, and birch; and the remaining 100 acres are planted with Scotch fir and larch, to which the soil s^ems most congenial. Rent of Land. — The average rent of the arable land is rather above L. 1, 15s. per Scotch acre; but in some very old leases it is much lower. The average rent of grazing for the grass season is generally at the rate of L: 1, 10s. per ox or cow grazed, and at the rate of 5s. per ewe or full-grown sheep. Husbandry. — The cattle reared are the Angus breed, generally black, and without horns. Most of them are bought up for the English markets when three or four years old, where they are much approved of; others are fed either for home use, or to be driven to the Glasgow market. This being a fertile corn part of the country, a considerable number of the cattle are bought at markets from inland situations, instead of being reared in the parish. Some few enterprising individuals have of late introduced the Teeswater or short-horned breed of cattle, which come sooner to a much greater weight. The sheep are in general the black-faced breed from the Highlands, and the ewes are crossed with a Leicestershire tup, to make the lambs heavier. Black-faced wethers and some of the Che- viot kind are fed by being flaked in turnips through the winter. Husbandry is carried on in this parish in the most approved style. The mode of cropping in general is, that no two grain crops shall succeed each other, without a clean fallow or a drilled green crop intervening, with one, and in many cases of late with two, years grass, — before being taken up. The grain is in general among the best in the county, and brings the highest price in the market. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. The farm- steadings are generally very good, and many of the farms are en- closed with stone fences. Fishivy. — There is a small fishing village called Ethie-haven INVERKEILOR. 243 situated a little from the south end of Lunan bay, among the rocks. But it is now seldom that a boat can go out to fish, as the old men are afraid to venture, and the young men seek employment where there is greater encouragement. There is a salmon-fishing in the sands of Lunan bay by a stake-net ; and one has been lately com- menced in the sea belonging to the estate of Ethie by a suspension net, as the rocky shore will not admit of stakes. The rents of these are about L. 140. Produce. — Tlie yearly amount of wheat, barley, and oats, is about 18,000 bolls. The produce of potatoes, turnips, and all greeo crops cultivated for food is about L. 5,400 ; of hay and sown grass, (no meadow hay,) about L. 3,600 ; of land in pasture there may be about 2500 acres. The annual thinning of woods may bring about L. 100. Quarry. — There is at Leysmill, in this parish, a quarry for pavement, where it is dressed by machinery driven by a steam- engine. This work gives employment to about fifty men. It be- longs to Mr Carnegie of Boysack. V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeUTown. — The nearest market-town is Arbroath. A post- office is situated near the church at Chance inn. Means of Communication, — The length of turnpike road in the parish is, of the road betwixt Arbroath and Montrose, by Chance inn, nearly two miles ; and of the road betwixt Arbroath and For- far, through the west end of the parish, two miles.. Besides the mail-coach, there are other two coaches passing and repassing every day by Chance inn; and carriers' carts every day. There ai*e five bridges in the parish over the Lunan in good condition. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is situated near the east end of the parish, and is not convenient for the western part of it. It was built 100 years ago, is in decent repair, and was lately enlarged by an aisle. It affords accommodation to about 700 ; but the people at the west end, being at a great distance, generally at- tend divine service at Kinnell, which lies nearer them. There are no free sittings. The manse was built in 1795, and received an addition a few years ago. The glebe is five acres in extent. The stipend 16 chalders, Linlithgow measure, of victual, payable at the Bars prices. No chapels of ease ; and no Seceding chapels : and there are but one family of Dissenters in the parish, and two of Episcopalians. Divine service at the Established church is well attended, and the 244 FORFARSHIRE. communicants are 670, besides about 45 who are admitted at Kin- nell. The average yearly amount of the collections at church for the poor for the last seven years is L. 50, 4s. 9d. Education, — There is one parochial school, the teacher of which has the maximum salary, and about L. 23 a-year of fees ; and an- other school, towards the west end of the parish, with a salary of from L. 5 to L. 7 from a deed of mortification, the teacher having a free school, and dwelling-house and garden. All the usual branches of instruction are taught at both. The people are so alive to the benefits of education, that hardly a child is to be met with that has not been at school. The total number of scholars at school in the parish is 142. Library. — There is a library, chiefly of a religious description, formed by voluntary subscriptions. Savings i?awA.—!- There is a Savings bank, which was instituted in 1820, for this parish and Lunan. On the Slst May last, to which day the annual accounts were brought up and settled, the managers found the sum deposited to be upwards of L. 500, but particular circumstances have occasioned a greater amount than usual to be withdrawn since. The investments have hitherto in general exceeded the sums withdrawn. The deposits are made by cottagers and tradesmen. Poor's Funds. — The average number of regular poor receiving parochial aid is 28; and the average sum to eacli per month is 5s. besides some coals in winter, — and several of them have their house rents paid. The occasional poor receive about L. 17 in the year. The chief source of relief arises from the collections at church, also from seat rents in the aisle, lately built, amounting yearly to L. 23; from legacies there are about L. 10 yearly; and from the mortcloths and proclamations about L. 7, 14s. But, in addition to these, it is sometimes necessary to recruit the fund by a voluntary subscription from the heritors and tenants. There are no assessments as yet. Some of the poor retain the old reluctance to receive parochial charity; but of late it is too frequently claim- ed as a right. January 1835. PARISH OF CRAIG. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARN8. THE REV. JAMES BREWSTER, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name, Sfc. — The parish of Craig comprehends twojdistinct ti- tularides, viz. Inchbrayock or Craig, and St Skeoch or Dunni- nald ; which were united in the year 1618, and appear from that period to have received the common name of Craig. Inchbrayock^ or Inchbroyock, a word of Gaelic origin, is supposed to signify " the island of trouts ;" and the greater part of the fishing ground on this island is still called ^^ the trout-shot ;" or, according to another etymology, " Inis^Breic, the church or chapel island," as the church. formerly stood on this island, and the spot is still occupied as the parish burial-place. St Skeoch^ or St Skay, as it is usually pronounced, appears to have received its name from some of the northern saints. * A very picturesque spot on the coast is usually called the Chapel of St Skay ; but no ruins remain to mark the existence of any former edifice. A small burying-place is preserved around the spot, which is occasionally used for inter- ments ; and the site of the manse is still pointed out in an adjoin- ing field. An annual payment of L. 40 Scots also is still paid as rent of the glebe to the Earl of Strathmore, as superior of Res- tennet Craig was formerly the name of one of the principal properties in the parish, " the barony of Craig ;" and may have originated in the circumstance of a succession of rocky strata extending along the whole of the sea coast, and occurring also throughout the in- terior, very near the surface of the ground. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish extends about 6 miles in length, and nearly 2^ at its greatest breadth ; comprising a sur- • Several years ago, some of our fishermen found a boat at sea with the name, " St Skieou, Wolgast,** painted on the stern, which I personally examined and noted at the time. If pronounced SkieoflT, according to the analogy of the northern language, it would approach very near to the appellation Skeoch. 246 FORFARSHIRE. face of 6 J square miles. Its figure bears some resemblance to that of a battledore ; the broader part of which forms a sort of promontory between the river Southesk on the north, and the bay of Lunan on the south ; while the other extremity, resembling the handle, runs straight towards the west, and intersects the adjoin- ing parish of Marytown in its course. The river Southesk, which flows through a basin about 9 miles in circumference, filled by the tide at high water, separates the parish from the town and harbour of Montrose on the north ; while the whole of the eastern, and part of the southern, boundary is washed by the German Ocean. " Topographical Appearances, — The greater part of the parish towards the east forms a sort of table-land, gradually rising from the north and east towards the south-west, till it reaches an eleva- tion of 400 feet above the level of the sea. Dunninald is the highest ground on the south coast ; Govan hill, in the middle ; Pitarris hill and Mountboy towards the west. The extent of coast washed by the sea is not less than five miles. The shore is very rocky ; and towards the south is quite precipi- tous. The bays and headlands are, Montrose bay and Montrose ness on the north, and Lunan bay and Boddin point on the south. Climate, Diseases, Sfc. — The climate is more than usually healthy, compared with the adjoining districts. The most common dis- eases are rheumatism, fevers, consumption, dysenteries. " A sin- gular distemper, called the louping ague, has sometimes made its appearance in this parish. The patients, when seized, have all the appearance of madness, and their bodies are variously dis- torted. They run, when they find opportunity, with amazing swiftness, and over dangerous passes ; and, when confined to the house, they jump and chmb in an astonishing manner, till their strength be exhausted. Cold bathing is found to be a nxost effec- tual remedy." (Former Account)- One case of more recent date was remarkably checked and cured by terror. A singular instance of somnolency, or stupor, occurred at Dunninald in the year 1815, — an account of which, drawn up at the time by the writer of this article, is recorded in the Transactions of the Edinburgh Philoso- phical Society, and entitled " Remarkable Case of Margaret Lyell." Springs.* — Many perennial springs of excellent water are found in the parish, but only one little burn towards the west, which • The description of llic river Southesk and Its circular basin, which hound llic parish on the north, is considered as belonging to the account of Montrose. CRAIG. 247 forms a part of the boundary with the parishes of Mary town and Lunan, in that direction. Soil and Rocks. — Towards the eastern extremity of the parish the soil is of a sandy description ; towards the west, rather moorish ; and in the middle, which is by far the largest portion, it is a strong rich loam. The whole rests upon a mountain-mass of amygda- loidal trap rock, in which is imbedded a great variety of beautiful agates or pebbles. In many parts of the precipitous rocks along the southern boundary, little streams of water issue out and trickle down the face of the rocks, and which are found to be strongly im- pregnated with the carbonate of hme. The rocks in this parish arc old red sandstone and limestone, intermingled with various trap rocks, as amygdaloid, greenstone, &c Zoology. — Besides the ordinary wild animals of the country, such as the fox, weazel, hedgehog, &c. there are occasionally found in the parish the roebuck, the polecat, and the ermine. Seals are frequently seen among the rocks on the eastern coast ; and the otter regularly breeds in a cave at St Skay rock. Many birds of prey are natives and visitors of the parish. The osprey or sea-eagle, common buzzard-hawk, moor buzzard-hawk, goshawk, sparrowhawk, merlin, or kestril; which last builds in the tower of the parish church. The long-eared, short-eared, and tawny owls build in Mountboy wood, and the white owl at the rock of St Skay. The great ash-coloured butcher-bird is found at Mountboy wood ; the raven and jackdaw at St Skay ; the car- rion-crow, hooded-crow, and rook at Rossie. The magpie, jay, starling, blackbird, fieldfare, redwing, throstle thrush, and cuckoo. The great-spotted woodpecker, and the creeper; the greenfinch, bulfinch, bunting, yellow bunting, black-headed bunting, and snow-bunting. The house-sparrow, chaffinch, mountain-finch, goldfinch, siskin, canary-finch, gray linnet, red linnet ; the sky- lark, pippit-lark, woodlark, titlark ; the pied wagtail, yellow and gray wagtail ; the pied fly-catcher ; the redbreast, blackcap, white- throat, yellow wren, willow wren, least willow wren, gold-crested wren, common kitty-wren, white-rump, whin-chat, and stone-chat; the greater, blue, cole and long-tailed titmouse, all in Mountboy wood; the chimney-swallow, window-swallow, sand martin, swift or black-martin, nightjar or goatsucker, in Mountboy wood ; the wood-pigeon, and turtle-dove ; the pheasant, black grouse, par- tridge, quail, and land-rail ; the pee-wit, and golden plover, which 248 FORFARSHIRE. last builds in Rossie moor, and the ring-dotterel on Usan beach. The woodcock also is found in Mountboy wood. A vast variety of aquatic birds frequent the basin in the South- esk, which forms the boundary of the parish on the north-west ; namely, the oyster-catcher, and sea-pyot ; water-rail, water-ouzel ; a stork was lately seen in the basin, and afterwards shot at Ethie House ; the common heron and bittern, the curlew and whimbrel ; the common snipe and jack-snipe; the common godwit, Cambridge greenshank, and redshank ; the shore sandpiper, common sand- piper, brown sandpiper, black sandpiper, spotted sandpiper, dun- lin, purre, little stint, and turn-stone ; the common gallinule ; the commot coot ; the tippit, dusky, little, and black-chin grebes ; the razor-bill, penguin, puffin, and little auk ; the common, black, and spotted guillemot ; the great northern diver, imber, lesser, first- speckled, second-speckled, red-throat, and black-throat clivers; the common, lesser, Sandwich, and brown terns, or sea swallows ; the black-backed, herring, wagel, common, winter, black-headed, kittiwake, and Arctic gulls ; the stormy petrel ; the goosander, dun-diver, red-breasted merganser, and smew merganser ; the wild swan (seen in flocks in^ the basin in 1822) ; the gray lag-goose, white-fronted, bean, bernacle, brent, eider-duck, velvet, scoter, mallard, hook-bill, scaup, gadwale, wigeon, aiTd shieldrake, pochard, pintail, long-tailed, golden-eye, and tufted ducks ; the teal-duck also has been found on its eggs in Mountboy wood ; the cormorant, crested, shag or skart, crested-shag, gannet or solan goose. * Botany. — Though the parish of Craig does not include any mountainous district within its boundaries, still the plants which it produces are numerous, and in many cases rare. They are as- sociated, in general, with the secondai^ strata, and chiefly with the old red sandstone formation. The greenstone porphyry and other trap-rocks, which occur occasionally among the strata, exhibit their usual luxuriant vegetation, — a luxuriance arising probably from the alkali contained in the felspar, which enters into their composi- tion. The situations in which the vegetable productions occur ^re considerably varied. Besides the plants commonly found in fields and by road-sides, we meet with those which are peculiar to * I have given the above list of birds entire, as it was drawn up by Mr lliomas Molison of Montrose, whose practical acquaintance with the ornithology of this dis- trict may be compared to that of the celebrated Don, in botany ; iind wliose unas> suming merits as a collector and preserver of specimens are too little known and ap- preciated. His researches, however, in his favourite pursuit, are sadly cramped by the restrictions of the game laws. 3 CRAIG. 249 the sea-shore and to maritime cliffs, as well as those found on the banks of rivers, and in hilly, woody, and marshy places. The principal habitats of the rare plants are the steep banks close to th6 sea at Dunninald and Usan, the woods of Dunninald, Rossie, Mountboy, FuUarton, * and the loch at HolemilL On the sea shore, atid in the marshy places near it, besides various species of Atriplex, Arenaria^ Salicorniaj Glauxy Erodiunij Cakile^ and Aster, we have in abundance the Scirpus maritimua, Triglochin maritimum, Saffina maritimay Liffusticum Scoticum^ Lithospermum maritimum, and the Elynrna arenarius ; which last) along with the Triticum junceum, Ammophila arundinacea, Carex vidpina and arenariay is useful in binding together the loose sand along the coast. On the sloping rocky banks and the red sandstone cliffs at Dunninald and Usan, we meet with many rare plants. Among these may be enumerated the Astragalus glyq/phyllus, Carlina vul- garis. Campanula glomerata, and Artemisia maritima, which are all very abundant. In the same situation are found the fragrant Origanum or marjoram, and the aromatic Clinopodium, the Solidago virgaurea, the Oxytropis uralensis, the Gentiana campestrisy the beautiful blue Geranium pratense, the fine blood-red Geranium sanguineumy and, not far from the Dunninald cliffs, the elegant Campanula rapuncidoides. In the woods, fields, and by the road-sides generally, in addi- tion to the usual- plants, we find the Clielidonium mojusy Pyrethrum Partlieniumy Radiola miUegranay Pyrola mediay Solanum dul- camaray Verbascum Thapsusy Anchusa sempervirensy Cynoglossum officinaUy Echium vulgarey Dipsacus sylvestrisy Doronicum Parda^ lianches ; various species of mallow, especially the Malva moschata ; several Gnaphalia^ and the Dianthus deltoidesy which is met with in great abundance on the porphyry rocks. In a glen -[• bordering on the parish, there is a profusion of the Atropa belladonnoy the dark-purple shining berries of which, from their attractive ap- pearance, have so often proved fatal to children. In the lakes and marshes, the chief plants deserving notice are, the beautiful white water-lily, or Nymphcea alba; the yellow spe- cies, or the Nuphar lutea ; the Menyantlies trifoliatay or elegant buck-bean ; the Potamogeton pusillusy gramineusy and pectinatus ; * FuUarton is wiUiin the parish of Marytown, but touches the north-west boundary of Craig. •f* The glen of Bonny ton, in the parish of Mary town. 250 FORFARSHIRE. the Scutellaria galericulata ; the Sxibularia aquatica; the Cicuta virosoy or deadly water-hemlock ; the Sium hitifolium^ Ranunculus lingua^ Typha latifblia^ Hydrocotyle vulgaris^ Pamassia palustris^ Comarum palustre, Hippuris vulgaris^ Utricularia vulgaris^ and various species of Orchis.^* * The principal woods in the parish are, Govan hill, extending to about forty imperial acres; Mountboy wood, covering about 154 acres ; and Dunninald dean about six acres. The two former arc situated inland towards the western extremity of the parish^ and consist chiefly of the Scotch and larch firs ; the latter is close to the sea-shore oi> the south side of the parish, and consists rather of what are called the hard-woods, ash, beech, elm, and plane-tree. The silver fir is also found to thrive better on the coast than the Scotch fir. II. — Civil History. Correct plans of the different properties in the parish have been drawn very recently by surveyors ; and a map of the whole parish was prepared for the former Statistical Account by Colonel Colqu- houn, nephew of the late Mr Ross of Rossie, and at that time a young officer in the army. This map appears to have been co- pied in a map lately published of the basin of the Tay ; and ex- cept that a new manse has been built in the vicinity of the church, and the villa of Inchbrayock on the site of the old manse, besides a few changes made on the lines of road, it still presents a very correct view of the localities. Eminent men, — Among the eminent characters connected with the parish, may be mentioned the truly eminent and excellent Archbishop Leighton, who was descended from a family of consi- derable celebrity in former times, proprietors of the lands of Usan, but whose immediate relationship cannot now be traced with any degree of certainty ; Andrew Melville, who was born at Baldovie, in the north corner of the parish, and whose life by Dr M'Crie, has rendered his name and character familiar to the readers of Scottish history ; David Scott, Esq. of Dunninald, who, for a long period, acted a distinguished part in the direction of the East In- dia Company's affairs, was born and brought up in the parish ; and his nephew, David Scott, Esq. not less distinguished by his * The above notices respecting the botany of the parish of Craig have been kindly supplied by a highly promising and much esteemed young friend, Dr John Hutton Balfour of Edinburgh, who has been distinguished from his earliest years by what may justly be denominated a Linniean spirit of enterprise and research in this inte- resting department of natural science. CRAIG. 251 services in tlie Indian Empire, and to whose memory a monument has been erected by the Supreme Government in India, was the second son of Archibald Scott, Esq. of Usan. A brief memoir of his life has been published at Calcutta, by Msgor White, author of " Considerations on the state of British India*" Land-^wtiers. — The present land-owners are, Horatio Ross, Esq. M. P., proprietor of Rossie, 2471 imperial acres; Patrick Arkley, Esq. a minor, proprietor of Dunninald, 721 ; George Keith, Esq. proprietor of Usan, 862 ; Sir James Carnegie, Bart, proprietor of Baldovie, 98; and also of Pittarris, 60; undivided common, about 757. Parochial Registers, — The kirk-session records commence in the year 1653; and, though not voluminous, are regularly kept from that period, with the exception of a blank between 1694 and 1714.* Antiquities. — The ancient kings of Scotland possessed a right to a cadger road, from the shore of Usan to the cross of Forfar, the breadth of which was to be the length of a mill wand; and about seventy years ago the proprietor of Usan claimed a part of Monrithmont moor, equivalent to the extent of the said cadger road through that moor. A stripe of land, of about 30 acres along the shore of Usan, is said by tradition to have been the residence of the king's cadger. Craig, or Rossie, appears to have been an ancient feudal barony, as a field behind the house is still called Lawfield ; and as an adjoining farm-steading is still called Balgove, that is, the withie, or prison-house ; and a rising ground on the pro- perty, Govanhill, the withie-hill^ or place of execution. The castle of Craig, on the northern^ side of the parish, fre- quently mentioned in the chronicles of Scotland, appears to have been a place of considerable strength. A part of the building, still occupied as a dwelling-house, bears the date of 1634; but a square tower and gateway, still standing in a very compact condi- tion, bear the aspect of great antiquity. In the immediate vicini* ty of Boddin, on the south coast, may be seen the remains, or ra- ther the site of an old castle, which still retains the name of Black Jack, supposed to have been so named in comparison with Red- castle on the opposite side of the bay. — " At the extremity of the parish, to the east, where the Southesk falls into the sea, there * The register of baptisms commences in 1657» and that of marriages in 1661 ; but in the former there is a blank from 1700 to 1714; in the latter from 1662 to 1714; in both from 1717 to 1723. 252 FORFARSHIRE. were to be seen, about twenty years ago, the remains of an earthen fort, in the form of a square, each side of which was about 50 feet ; the walls 16 feet thick, and formerly as high or higher than a man's head. Within it there was a house for the purpose of af- fording shelter to the men, and holding stores and ammunition. Without the square, and facing the mouth of the river, there was a breast-work of earth, where cannon had been planted to defend the entrance of the river. Tradition reports that it had been made use of in Oliver Cromwell's time ; but whether erected by him, or in more ancient times, cannot now be ascertained. At this fort some cannon were placed so late as the year 1745." * Modem Buildings. — The modern buildings are, the parish church, built in the year 1799 ; the house of Rossie in 1800 ; the house of Dunninald in 1825; the house of Usan in 1820; the villa of Inchbrayock in 1813. These are aU constructed, as to the mass of the walls, of a stone found in the parish, called scurdy-stone ; but the fronts and more ornamental parts are built with freestone from quarries in the vi- cinity of Brechin, or in the county of Fife. III. — Population. The population in 1801, amounted to 1328 1811, - HGo 18-21, - - 1545 1831, - - 1552 There has been rather a diminution of the population in the more landward parts of the parish, in consequence of the demoli- tion of many cottages and hamlets ; and it is principally in the fishing villages that the increase has taken place. Several of those families, also, who were removed from their cottages, instead of leaving the parish, found a residence on Rossie island, adjoining to the town of Montrose, and which portion of the parish, as now included within the burgh of Montrose by the boundary bill, will, in a few years, become a sort of suburban appendage to that town. The number of the population residing in villages is as follows. 1. In F^jrryden, ----- 679 In Usan, - - - - - - 142 On Hossie island, - - - - - 119 In the country portion, - - . - - 690 2. The yearly average for the last 7 years of births, is - - - 51 deaths, - . - 26 marriages, - - - 15 3. The average number of persons under 15 years of age, is - - 663 betwixt 15 and 30, - - - 372 30 and 50, - - - 323 50 and 70, - - - 211 upwards of 70, - - - 61 • Former Statistical Account. CRAIG. 253 ^ The nuflibcrof indmdiMti or finmilifai of independent fortune reaidingiB the parish, is - - .5 proprietors of land, of the yearly value of L. 50 upwards, is 4 unmarried men, bachelors and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, is - - - 31 unmarried women upwards of 45, is - - 121 in which number is included widows, - . 41 5. Number of families, - - - - 371 Average number of children in each family, t. e. the average produce of each family, . - - . - 5 6. Number of inhabited houses, ... . 252 uninhabited or now building, . - 29 There is nothing remarkable in the personal qualities of the people. The number of insane is 2 ; fatuous, 3 ; blind, 2 ; deaf and dumb none. In their general character the people are intelligent and moral, and attentive to the public ordinances of religion. About thirty years ago, and even to a later period, the smuggling of gin and brandy from Holland prevailed to a great extent ; and great quan- tities of Highland whisky were brought into the parish by illicit traders. But the establishment of the coast guard has completely prevented the former practice ; and, since the smaller stills have improved the quality of their spirits, the latter has been almost en- tirely abolished. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — Imperial acres. There are in cultivation, - - - . 3509 2 37 waste or pasture, • - - 331 capable of tilkge, .... 250 undivided common,* most ofwhich are capable of tillage, 757 under wood, .... 291 The trees commonly planted are,* ash, elm, beech, birch, oak, plane, .willow, larch-fir, silver-fir, and Scotch -fir; and of late a greater degree of attention is paid to the management of planta- tions and woods. « Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per acre is L.3, 10s. The average rent of grazing for the year per ox or cow, is from L. 3 to L. 3, 10s. ; per ewe or full-grown sheep, from 12s. to 15s. Rate of Wages. — The rate of labour for farm-work per day is, for female labourers, 8d. ; for male labourers. Is. 6d. ; for masons, 2s. 6d. ; for carpenters, 2s. ; for mill-wrights, 3s. or 3s. 6d. ; for women servants in the family, but bound to labour at farm-work when required, from L. 5 to L. 6 per annum ; for ploughmen un- * This common belongs to four adjoining parishes, vii. Craig, Marytown, Famell and Kinnell. 254 FORFARSHIRE. married, and lodged in an out-house, called a bothie^ from L. 10 to L, 12, with an allowance of two pecks of oat-meal per week, and one Scotch pint of new milk per day ; for married ploughmen from L. 1 1 to L. 13, with the same allowance of milk and meal, a house, and commonly a small piece of garden ground, a cart-load of coals, and two bolls of potatoes. Husbandry. — The common breed of sheep in the parish is the Highland or black-faced; and of cattle, the Angus-shire black, with- out horns. The land, in general, may be said to be in a high state of cultivation, and managed according to the most approved system of husbandry. The duration of leases is almost universally for the period of nineteen years ; and their terms, in most cases, are sufficiently favourable to the occupiers. The farm-buildings are commodious in general ; and, in many instances, are of a very supe- rior description. A considerable portion of the land is also well inclosed. The principal improvements have been made in the draining of the lands, the application of manures, and the rotation of the crops. Quarries and Mines. — In various parts of the parish, there are quarries of the amygdaloidal trap-rock, mentioned under the head of rocks, called by the country people scurdy-stone, and com- monly employed in building, but not suitable for facing the doors and windows of dwelling-houses. There was a considerable body of limestone, forming a promontory or headland, at the southern extremity of the parish, about 12 or 13 acres in superficial extent, resting upon a soft sandstone ; both of which have been of subse- quent formation to the amygdaloidal trap-rock in the vicinity. This limestone is said to have been wrought so early as the year 1696 ; and is supposed to have been the first lime burnt in Angus-shire: 40,000 bolls of it have been made and sold in one year. But, after yielding a considerable revenue to the different proprietors of Dun- ninald, it is now nearly exhausted. The remaining portion, ex- cept at very low water, is almost constantly covered by the sea ; and the increased expense of working it, occasioned its being aban- doned in the year 1831. Fisheries. — There are very extensive fisheries in the parish, both of salmon and of white fish. " The salmon fisheries on the Southesk, belonging to the proprietors of Rossie and Usan, were formerly very productive. Those of Rossie, some seasons, yield- ed 10,000 salmon and grisles, but since the year 1781, they have fallen off greatly. The barrel of salmon sold twenty years ago for CRAIG. 255 about L. 3, ds. ^ and the fresh salmon for 2s. per Dutch stone : but of late the prices have increased to near double." * These fisheries became still more valuable during the period that stake- nets were employed in the river ; and at times the Rossie fishings have been let at L. 800. More recently these have only brought an annual rent of L. 650 ; and the fishing nearer the river mouth belonging to the estate of Usan, only about L. 50. In the year 182^9 a salmon fishery was established on the sea-coast close to the Boddin point, by the proprietor of Dunninald, which has proved remtrkably successful, and has brought a rent of nearly L. 400 per annum. The greater part of the salmon taken in this parish is packed in ice, and shipped for the London and Edinburgh mar- kets, and it is not easy to ascertain here the prices procured through- out the season. Those which are sold in this neighbourhood cost in the earlier part of the season, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per lb. ; and at other times from 8d. to lOd. The white or sea-fishing is carried on by the inhabitants of two villages, Ferryden and Usan,f, to a very great extent. The for- mer contains a population of 679, and the latter of 142, the greater part of whom are employed in the fishing, — in the one, 85 families^ or 590 souls ; in the other, 16 families, or 85 souls. In Ferryden 25 boats are regularly employed ; 18 of these, of a larger size, car- rying 6 men each ; 2 of a medium size, carrying 5 ; 5 of a smal- ler size, carrying 5 or 4. In Usan 6 boats, at an average, are em- ployed throughout the year, carrying 6 men each. In the winter season, during calm frosty weather, these boats go from eight to ten miles from land) nearly due east from the Bell- rock ; but in stormy weather, they rarely venture more than three or four miles from land. In summer, they go to a much greater distance^ and fish upon two banks called the north and south shold ; the first about eighteen, and the second twenty miles from Idnd. Four of the larger boats in Ferryden, and the same number in Usan, use in summer what are called the great lines, and some- times go thirty miles to sea. The boats with the great lines take principally, halibut, skate, cod and ling ; the other boats, cod and haddocks. The halibut is in best season from April to July, and the skate during the same period. The ling is best during the summer months, and the cod during winter, or from November to * Former Statistical Account. i- In the older records and graTe-stones, this village is denominated Ulysses-haven, probably from some Danish chief of that name. FORFAR. R 25G FORFARSHIRE. July. The haddock is good all the year, except the months of March and ApriL During the summer season, there may be frequently seen at Fer- ryd6n fifteen or sixteen boats, after an absence of twelye or four- teen hours, coming ashore in one day, with 1000 haddocks in each, which are currently sold in the Montrose market, or to retailers through the country, at little more than a farthing per lb. Fish- cadgere from the adjoining parishes, and from the towns of Forfar, Cupar- Angus, Perth, and Dundee, come at all times of the year to Ferryden for fresh fish ; and in the summer season, more^han a dozen of these carts, loaded chiefly with haddocks, may be seen tearing the village in one day. The greater proportion of the cod and ling are sold to fish-cu-* rers in Montrose ; and not less than 46,000 have been supplied in one year from the two fishing villages. Several boats also go to the herring-fishing at Fraserburgh, Peterhead, &c. ; and, at an average, they bring in 2000 crans or barrels in a season. The following list of fish has been given by one of our most in- telligent fishermen, as seen by himself on this coast in the course of his labours : The black whale, white whale, bafiert whale, bottle-nose, and porpoise ; the shark, seal, and dog-fish ; the blind-eye, so called from a membrane passing over its eyes when caught ; cod, ling, haddock, halibut, turbot; common skate, snack-skate, whap-skate, thomback-skate, and King James' s-skate; the white-flounder, sole- flounder, spotted-flounder, dab-flounder, Craig-flounder, and maid- en flounder ; the wolf, hog, cat, hawk, cole, and lied-fish ; herring, mackerel, pilchard, whiting; miller-thumb, golden-fish, banstickle, pirling; conger-eel, ramper-eel, fresh-water-eel, sand-eel; horse- mogral, camper-fish, gray-fish, stone-fish, and maiden-fish; sun- fish, goupney-fish, sea-mouse, sea-louse ; toad-fish, corie-fish, and star-fish; goose-tongue, anchor-fish, scaup, and clip-fish, which stick to rocky bottoms. The shell-fish are, lobsters, partens, crabs, fling-crab, hedge-hog, clampit, oyster, cockle, sea-buckie, river- buckie, black and white-wilks, rock and maiden-limpets, common mussel, horse-mussel, and spout-fish among the sand." The Ao- linia, sea anemone or sea marigold, is found in great abundance adhering to the rocks at St Skay, and is generally of a dark blood- red colour. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish : CRAIG. Produce of grain of all kinds,* ^ L. 12,482 Of potatoes, cabbage, turnips, &c. 5040 Of hay, including cut grass,f 2256 Of land in pasture, quite coarse, 35 Of gardens and orchards, • 400 Of thinning and ielling of wood. •i 25 Of fisheries, salmon, L. 2*220 sea-fishing, 4S18 herring, - 850 7888 257 L. 27,626 Manufactures. — In the manufacturing line, there is nothing car- ried on here to any great extent The reason may be, that the great object of pursuit in this district is agriculture ; and that the situation of the parish, much elevated and remote from rivers, does not furnish the water that would be requisite for extensive bleach- fields, and for the operation of mills." There are, however, thirty- six males employed in manufacture in the parish. Several years ago, small quantities of kelp were manufactured on the coast, but the process has for some time past been entirely dis- continued. Navigation. — Several inhabitants of the parish are joint proprie- tors of ships sailing from the port of Montrose, but there are no vessels which can be said to belong to the place. Many of the re- sidents in Ferryden and its vicinity are employed as seamen in na- vigating the Montrose shipping, and especially in the vessels en- gaged in the north-sea whale-fishing. Recently, however, the greater proportion of the crews of the whalers are taken on board from Shetland, where the hands required are easily procured at lower wages ; but our fishermen are ready to ascribe to this plan the di- minished success of the whale ships from this quarter, in conse- quence of the inferiority, as they allege, of the Shetlanders to our fishers, as vigorous and adventurous boatmen. The only navigable river is the South Esk, which separates thei parish from the town and harbour of Montrose. V. — Parochial Economy. The nearest market-town is Montrose, which is separated from the northern boundary of the parish only by the river South Esk, and to which there is access by a magnificent suspension bridge. Means of Communication. — The means of communication are, * I1ic value of the grain is estimated at the avcrnge prices for the years 1830, 1831, 1832. f About fifteen years ago considerable quantities of flax were raised on almost every fiirm in the parish ; but for several years past none has been sown. 1l^ FORFARSHIRE. K The pty^v-m the eastern, and four from the western, extremity of the parish ; but the great proportion of the inhabitants reside within a circle of a mile and a-half from the church. It was built in tbe year 1799, at the expense of the late Mrs Ross of Rossie, and present- ed by her to the parish. It is a very handsome structure} with a ^uare tower SO feet in height, and for a long period after its erection, it was the only country* church in the district possessed of any architectural beauty. It is preserved in a complete state of repair. The church is seated for 800 hearers. AH the sittings are free, that is, no rent is drawn from them by the heritors or kirk-session ; but there are occasional instances of entrants into the parish, such fts the men of the coast-guard, paying a trifling sum to any of the farmers who have more seats than their servants and cottars require. The present manse was built in 1805, and is in good repair. The glebe is six Scotch acres in extent, and would let at L. 20 or h, 24 per annum, besides an acre of ground around the manse. The stipend, which was previously small in proportion to the extent and wealth of the parish, received a considerable augmen- tation in the year 1830 ; and its average amount for the last three years is h, 268, 7s. lid. exclusive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The whole population of the parish attend the Established 3 CRAIG, 259 Churchy with the exception of one old woman, who is an Episco- palian, another, who is an Independent, and one family of Se- ceders. It may also happen occasionally that some of the crew of the coast guard are Episcopalians, — but even in that case they usually attend the parish church. A fe^ families have returned from the Secession to the Established Church within the last twenty years. Divine service is generally well attended, both at the parish church and at the Sabbath evening lectures in the fish- ixig villages. The average number of communicants is nearly 500. An Association for religious purposes has existed for many year$ in the parish, chiefly under the direction of the ladies residing within its bounds; but it is at present in contemplation to connect this association more immediately with the missions and other re- ligious institutions under the direction of the Established Church. The average amount of the yearly contributions of said Associa- tion may be estimated at L. 10. The amount of church collec- tions for similar purposes, at the same sum. Education^ — The number of schools in the parish at present is 4. Of parochial schools, 1 ; of unendowed schools, 2 ; supported by individuals, 1. * In the parish school are taught, English, writing, arithmetic, geography, navigation, mathematics, Latin, and Greek. In one of th9 other schools, English, writing, and arithmetic ; and in the remaining two, which are taught by females, the only branch of education is English reading, with sewing and knitting. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 34 ; the amount of fees actually drawn, L. 17; The amount of session fees, &c. L. 13. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodations ; and the dwelling-house is of a superior description to those usually pro- vided in the country. I am not aware of there being any individual in the parish who is altogether unable to read ; but many of the females, especially in the fishing villages, are unable to write. The people are very much alive to the benefits of education, and make great exertions to procure it for their children. No additional schools are required, except a female teacher for very young children at Usan. The greatest number of scholars at all the week-day schools during the year 1834 was 183. * This school is situated within the boundary line of the parish of Marytown, but is supported by Mrs Arkley of Dunninald, and attended principally by children from this parish. An in£int school was instituted in 1834 at Ferryden,( — at which 84 scholars under six years of age are taught. 260 FOBFABSHIUE. Literature. — A parochial library * was instituted in this parish in the year 1809, — the first in this district of these valuable institu- tions, and it now contains 590 volumes. More recently, a smaller collection of about 190 volumes l)as been provided for the village of Ferryden, and another of 96 volumes for the village of Usan. The books in all these libraries are principally of a moral and re- ligious description ; but they contain also several miscellaneous works of history and biography ; and in each library there is a set of the Kildare Street publications. The inhabitants of the parish have the use of these libraries gratis, which have been formed and upheld by donations of books, and oocasional collections in the pa- rish church. Charitable and other Institutions. — A considerable number of the inhabitants of the parish are members of friendly societies in the town of Montrose; but in the year 1819, a friendly society was instituted for the benefit of the fishermen of the parish, in- cluding also those who reside on the Montrose bank of the river, most of whom have originally belonged to the parish of Craig. This society has been attended with many good effects, and is in a very flourishing state. It consists of 160 members, and has a fund of about L. 500. A saving-bank was established in the parish in the year 1815, but, from various causes, has not received so much support as might have been expected. The investments have been principally made by unmarried domestic servants, fishermen, and coast-guard men, The sum invested yearly has been about L. 65, ds. 6d., and the amount drawn about L. 49, 16s. lOd. ; but a branch of the bank has been opened recently at the fishing village of Ferryden, which promises to prove very successful, — the sum of L. 43 having been invested, chiefly by young men, in the course of a few months. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving regular parochial aid is 26, and the average sum allotted to each is Is. Id. per week. There are occasional donations, how- ever, made to persons in temporary distress, who are not upon the weekly pension-list ; and two general distributions annually, from L. 8 to L. 10 each, are made among all the poor, — from 65 to 70 in number, chiefly widows and aged persons. " It may here * This originated in a donation of books from Andrew Balfuur, Esq. Edinburgh. A small library in Ferryden also took its rise from a similar donation by James Dou- glas, Esq. of Cavers, who, in the year 1827, expended L. 100 in donations of books to parish libraries and reading societies in Forihrshire. These donations not only laid the foundation of many parish libraries in this quarter, but became the means of inducing the ministers and inhabitants of other parishes to form similar institutions themselves. CRAIG. 261 be remarked, that, besides the private benefactions of residing heritors to the poor, they derive much benefit from the circum- stance of such families being of our own communion, and attend- ing the Established church, which has generally been the case for a century past During forty years and upwards, no poor have had occasion to beg, — the parish being both able and willing to maintain its own poor. Many, however, are apt to give liberally to strolling vagrants or sturdy beggars, who infest this district and the neighbourhood, — an evil severely felt, and which stands much in need of an effectual remedy." This description is still strictly applicable to the state of the poor in this parish. The average annual amount of contributions for their relief is about L. 136 ; arising from church collections, L. 70, Ids. ; from donations, L. 22 ; from interest of poor's funds, L. 43, 7s. * lliese funds are ordinarily sufficient for the stated supply of the poor in the parish ; and when any peculiar case of distress occurs, or any general pressure upon the more necessitous arises, which the kirk-session are unable to relieve, an extraordinary collection in the church, a subscription through the parish, or application to the heritors, never fails to procure the required supply. There is gradually less appearance of unwillingness among the poor to seek parochial relief, but in general they do not apply with- out necessity ; and several instances do still occasionally occur of great reluctance to accept of it, even when offered. One remark- able instance recently occurred, of a person living by his labour wishing to make some repayment of what his mother and sister had received from the poor-funds. Alehouses. — There is an undue proportion of alehouses in the parish, there being not less than thirteen already licensed, and two additional in preparation, which allows one alehouse to every twenty-four families in the parish. Their influence is most perni- cious in every respect ; and it is truly lamentable to perceive the in- sensibility so generally manifested by the more influential classes to the rapidly increasing evils among the lower orders of the commu- nity, which so obviously proceed from this fertile source of corrup- tion. Fuel, — The fuel generally used is coal, brought by sea from the English coast and the Firth of Forth, — the former at the rate of Is. 2d. per barrel, or about 12s. for a one-horse cart load, — and * Of the poor*8 fonds at interest, amounting in all to L. 850» the sum of L. 100 was presented in 1800 by the present Sir David Scott, Bart. Brighton ; L. 500 was left in 1806 by Robert Williamson, Esq. London, a native of the parish ; and L. dO was left in 1828 by Mrs Scott of Uson, long a resident in the parish. 262 FORFARSHIRE. the latter at 9s. 6d. per boll, which is nearly also the load of a single horse cart Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account, the real rental of the parish has been more than doubled, having increased from L. 4000 to L. 9500. The population has received an addition of more than 300 souls. The poor's fund, or principal at interest, has been increased by donations and bequests from L. 200 to L. 850 : the number of weekly pensioners has, at the same time, become more than double. The number of Dissenters from the Established church has decreased from 20 to 5. The church, manse, and school, all the mansions of the proprietors, and all the farm-houses except two, have been rebuilt The population in the villages has become greater in proportion to that in the country part of the pa- rish, in consequence of many cottages having been thrown down, and several pendicles of land added to the larger farms. There is, especially, a greater increase of the fishing population, who form, indeed, a most valuable class of the community, both pro- curing their own bread, and providing an abundant supply of whole- some food for others, at the daily peril of their lives, without trou- bling the public about rise of wages, or demands for employment. They are well treated in this parish by their immediate landlords ; but they still labour under some old feudal burdens, and are not so generally appreciated and encouraged as they deserve. There is a greater shifting of the agricultural population at the usual terms, especially among the unmarried servants, and a con- sequent deterioration of their morals, as they rarely remain long enough in the same parish to be properly brought under pastoral inspection and instruction, and seem to become less anxious to main- tain a good character in places where they are comparatively strangers, and from which they are likely so soon to remove. This evil appears to be owing, in no small degree, to the system of keep- ing the unmarried men-servants apart from the master's family, lodged in out-houses called bothies^ making their own food, and liv- ing, during their unemployed hours, much at their own discretion. There is a greater want of employment for the more aged females, who are not able to work, or to find work, in the fields ; and who cannot subsist upon the produce of their casual and poorly paid in- door occupations. Though there can be no question that large farms tend both to improve and uphold the agriculture of the country ; yet a few pen- dicles of land, from five to twenty acres in each parish, in the pro-> LOGIE PERT. 263 portion, perhaps, of one to every ten families of the agricultural labourers, would present a powerful stimulus to these labourers to save a little fund for the purpose of renting such a possession ; and though only one out of ten could thus succeed in his aim, yet, as all would be encouraged to cherish such a hope, all might feel an inducement to sobriety and mdustry, which, in present circum- stances, is greatly wanted. Another great benefit to country parishes, subsidiary, if not pre- paratory, to the last mentioned, would be the adoption of some systematic measures for diminishing the number of alehouses, and discouraging the use of ardent spirits, — an object which, on every consideration, moral and political, loudly demands the constant and united endeavours of the members of government, the gen- tlemen of the country, and the ministers of religion. Revised January 1835. PARISH OF LOGIE PERT. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARN8. THE REV. THOMAS HILL, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries^ Sfc. — The parish of Logie, or Logie- Mon- trose, as it was formerly called, was annexed to the parish of Pert about the year 1610 or 1615. The word Logie (which is very common throughout Scotland) is said to be of Gaelic origin, and to signify " a flat or low situation," which certainly corresponds to that of the old church of Logie, the remains of which are still romantically situated in a hollow or low ground close by the North Esk river. Pert is of uncertain origin. The old church of Pert is no less beautifully situated on the banks of the North Esk, near to the old North-water bridge, and three miles up the river from Logie. The united parish extends from east to west nearly 5 English miles, and from north to south 3 miles. Its boundaries are, on the north, the river North Esk ; on the south, the parish of Dun; on the east, the parish of Montrose; and on the west, the parish of Strickathrow. Topographical Appearances^ Sfc, — The figure of the parish is somewhat of an oblong or rather elliptical form, though by no 264 FORFARSHIRE. means regular. The lower part lies along the banks of the North Esk, which, by a beautiful curve, divides it, towards the north and east, from the adjoining parishes of Marykirk and St Cyrus. The upper part is pretty high, — ^generally, however, bending with a gentle declivity to the river, and commanding a noble and exten- sive view of the Grampians and Meams. In the lower part, the soil is a fine deep loam, while in the upper it is generally a black soil on a clay bottom. The temperature is in general keen, and apparently not unfavourable to longevity, although at times, par- ticularly in 1787-8, there have prevailed fevers highly infectious and epidemical. The other distempers most common amongst us are, the gravel, rheumatism, and consumptions. It is said that the plague raged here in 1648. Hydrography^ ^c. — There are several springs in the parish, but none of them of great celebrity. There was one in the old church- yard of Logic, formerly much resorted to for medicinal purposes, which is now completely dry. Another is situated near the spot where the old manse of Pert stood, and still yields a quantity of excellent water. The only river is the North Esk, already-men- tioned, more commonly called the North-water, which divides the two counties of Angus and Mearns. It takes its rise from the mountain torrents, and, after issuing from a small lake in the parish of Locblee, falls into the sea about three miles north of Montrose, by the South Esk, which also rises among the Grampians, and falls into an inland bay called the Basin of Montrose. The North -water produces in abundance excellent trout and sal- mon, — the fishing of which yields a considerable revenue to the different proprietors. The parish abounds with the usual sorts of game ; and, of late years, the pheasant, formerly a rare bird, has become very common. II. — Civil History. There are no historical events worthy of notice. Land'oumers. — The chief land- owners are the following, in the order of their valued rents: David Carnegy, Esq. of Craigo ; James Lyall, Esq. of Gallary; the Earl of Kintore; Lieutenant- Gene* ral Sir John Hope, K. C. B. ; the Most Noble the Marquis of Ailsa; and Alexander Cruickshank, Esq, of Strickathrow, — only the two first of whom reside in the parish. Parochial Registers, — There are no parochial registers in ex- istence of a date previous to the year 1716, — those prior to that date having probably perished amid the disturbances of 1715, — since which time they have been regularly kept, and arc now in good order. LOGIE PERT. 265 Antiquities. — -The only antiquities in the parish are the three tumuli, on three laws of Craigo, mentioned in the former Statisti- cal Account, and situated nearly a mile west of the house of Craigo. Two of these tumuli have been opened, and in one of them was found a stone coffin, containing a human skeleton almost entire, — the bones of an extraordinary size, of a deep-yellow colour, and vdry brittle. In the other tumulus opened, there were found, about a foot from the surface, four human skeletons of gigantic propor- tions, and near to these, a beautiful black ring like ebony, of a (ine polish, and in perfect preservation. The ring was 12 inches in circumference, and 4 in diameter, flat in the inside, rounded with- out, and capable of fitting a large wrist In the same tumulus was found an urn full of ashes. From the discovery of these skeletons of extraordinar}' size, both here and in other parts of Scotland, some confirmation would seem to be given to the ancient tradition, that at one time there was a race of giants in this country. III. — Population. There is no written record from which the state of the popula- tion can be exactly ascertained previous to 1791, when the amount was 999. In 1801 it had decreased about 100, in consequence of the junction of farms, and the demolition of cottar houses ; but since then it has gradually increased, and in 1831 it was 1360, — an increase, doubtless, owing principally to the flourishing state of the two manufacturing Establishments in the parish, which of late years have been greatly enlarged, and in the immediate vicinity of which, consequently, a great part, we may say about one-half, of the whole population is congregated. 1. The number of families in the parish is, ... 200 cliiefly employed in agriculture, - - 109 trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 134 2. unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers, above 50, - 9 unmarried women, including widows, above 45, - 50 3. Average number of births yearly for last 7 years, - - - 31 t deaths, ..... ]0 marriages, . ^ . . . 8 4. persons under 1 5 years of age, - - 50O upwards of 70, - - - ^ 30 The average number of children in each family is 5. There are 2 fatuous persons and 1 blind boy in the parish. Character and Habits of the People. — Their habits are generally cleanly and orderly. The ordinary food of the peasantry is oat- meal, milk, and potatoes. The people at large certainly seem to enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and advantages of so- ciety, and appear, moreover, to be contented with their situation and circumstances. Their character in general may be described as shrewd, industrious, moral, and religious. 266 FORFARSHIRE. IV. — Industry. jfyricuUure and Rural Economy. — There are few acres of waste land io this parish which could at present be profitably cultivated, and there are none of undivided common. The number of acres under cultivation is . d795 lying waste, about . 800 underwood, <- - 1100 The kinds of trees generally planted are, larches, spruce, and Scotch fir. , Husbandry. — The most usual mode of cropping in this parish is the four-shift, — that is, Ist, fallow ; 2dj a com crop sown down with grass seeds ; Sd, grass ; 4/A, oats. The grain raised is ge- nerally of excellent quality, and may be said to average as follows : wheat from 8 (o 10 bolls, barley 7 bolls, and oats 8 bolls per acre ; potatoes vary from 25 to 45 bolls, and bay from 150 to 200 stones per acre. There is little or no meadow-hay in the parish. Flax is not now raised, except for private use. Rent ofLsand. — The average rent of land in the parish is about L. 1, 10s. per acre; the valued rent is L. 3716, Ifte. 4d. Scotch; and the real rent may be stated at L. 5000 Sterling. Wages of Labour. — Women generally get from 8d. to lOd. per day, and men Is. 4d. in winter, and Is. 6d. or Is. 8d. in summer. Master wrights from 2s. 6d. to ds., and their apprentices Is. 6d. per day, without victuals. Unmarried ploughmen may be had at from L. 10 to L. 12 yearly, with 6^ bolls of meal, and a Scotch pint of sweet milk per day. The married men receive a little more money, with the addition of some coals and potatoes. The price of good carts is now from L. 12 to L. 14, and of ploughs from L. 3 to L. 4. There are generally a few sheep kept during the winter to consume the bone-dust turnip; and the kind of cattle in common use is the Angus-shire. The usual duration of leases is nineteen years. The state of the farm houses and offices is in general ex- cellent One steading was recently built at a cost of not less than L. 2000. There are almost no stone enclosures in the parish, and only a few thorn hedges, — the prevailing fence being composed of strong and moveable paling. With regard to improvements it may be added, that draining has been successfully carried to a great extent in this parish. Irrigation, however, is little practised ; and, except on the banks of the North Esk, embanking is not re- quired. Quarries. — There are some lime quarries in the west end of the parish, which were several years ago wrought to a considerable ex- tent, but are now completely given up. On the estate of Craigo, L.1100 672 4482 4d05 877 laeo 1425 250 50 LOGIE PERT* 267 also, there is a freestone quarry of excellent quality, but attended with such expense, that few stones now leave the estate. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish annually, as nearly as can be ascertained, may be stated as follows : 440 quarters wheat, at L. 2, lOs, 448 do. peas and beans, at L.ly lOs, 4075 do. oats, at L. 1 , 2s, 2870 do. barley, at L. 1, lOs, 234 acres hay, including what is cut green, 150 stones per acre, at 6d. per stone, ..... 196 acres potatoes, at L. 10 per acre, ... 285 do. turnips, at L. 5, Annual thinnings of wood, .... Salmon fishing, ..... L. 14,521 It may here be added, that a very productive source of income to many families is the dairy produce which is consumed in the pa- rish, and weekly, or oftener, sent to Montrose, amounting, it is be- lieved, to not less than several hundred pounds annually. Manufactures. — There are, as already mentioned, two great ma- nufacturing establishments in the parish, namely, those at Logie and Craigo. They are both situated on the banks of the North Esk, about half a mile distant from each other. The Logie works, which comprise a bleachfield and flax spinning-mill, belong to a company in Montrose. The bleachfield has been in existence nearly seventy years. At present, it is employed solely in bleach- ing linen yams, which are afterwards manufactured into various kinds of cloth for the home and foreign markets. The number of hands employed varies from 40 to 50, consisting of men, women, and boys, the boys earning from 4s. to 6s., the women from ds. to 6s., and the men from lOs. to 12s. weekly. The average work- ing time is eleven hours per day. The flax spinning-mill was erected upwards of thirty years ago, and has been lately much enlarged. It employs about 130 hands, consisting of men, women, and children. None are employed under ten, and but few un- der twelve years of age ; the wages vary from 3s. to 20s. and up- wards weekly, and the average working time, according to the late act, is sixty-nine hours weekly, or twelve hours per day, for five days of the week, and nine hours for the remaining working day. The Craigo works are still more extensive, comprising a flax spin- ning-mill of 31 frames, a bleachfield, cloth finishing machinery, and an alkali manufacture, giving constant employment to about 150 people, male and female, and paying about L. 100 weekly in wages. These latter works, which attained to their present extent 268 FORFARSHIRE. and importance in the hands of John Maberly, Esq. late Member for Abingdon, are now the property of Messrs Richards and Com- pany, London. Both works, the writer feels pleasure in adding, are under excellent management, and great attention is paid to the health, morals, and education of those employed at them. V. — Parochial Economy. There are no villages in the parish. The nearest market-town is Montrose, which is distant about four miles from the east end of the parish, and where the traffic during the week is very consi- derable. Means of Communication. — A daily post runs through the pa- rish from Montrose to Laurencekirk, and the Union and Defiance coaches from Edinburgh to Aberdeen daily pass in a different di- rection. The length of the turnpike roads is only about 3 miles, namely, 1 mile to the west, from the North-water bridge toll on the Brechin road, and 2 miles on the Marykirk road to Mon- trose ; the line of which last is now undergoing a considerable al- teration, with the view of avoiding the long ascent at the back of Rosemount. There are two great bridges connected with the pa- rish, — the old North-water bridge, which was built above 300 years ago, and. consists of three arches, and the Marykirk bridge, a handsome bridge of four arches, which was built in 1814, at a cost of L. 7000, by means of shares of L. 25 each, and under the sanction of an act of Parliament. This last erection was a great and decided improvement, and has very much facilitated the in- tercourse of the two counties. Ecclesioiiical State, — The situation of the parish church is ex- actly centrical, being about three miles distant from the two extre- mities. It was built in 1775, and has undergone sundry repairs. But it is neither a commodious nor a comfortable place of wor- ship, and, what is worse, it has of late become insufficient for the acc^immodation of the increasing population of the parish : the consideration of which circumstances will, it is hoped, soon lead to the erection of a new building, at once more comfortable and more adequate to the existing wants of the people. The number for which it at present affords suitable accommodation is 500, and there are free sittings for about 20 of these. The manse was built in 1776, and has at different times got repairs and additions, although still its accommodation is limited and confined. The glebe is about 9 acres in extent, and may be valued at L. 2 per atere. At the last augmentation in 1822, the stipend was fixed at 15 chalders, half barley and half meal, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for com- LOGIE PEllT. 269 munion elements. All the families in the parish belong to the Establishment, except 15, of whom 5 are Episcopalians, and the rest attend neighbouring Dissenting meeting-houses. When the weather permits, attendance on Divine service is' generally very regular and good. For the last five years, the average number of conmiunicants has been 500. There are no societies for reli- gious purposes in the parish. But the people, when appealed to publicly, as they frequently are, in behalf of such purposes as the * Assembly's Highland Schools and Indian Mission, seldom fail to respond in a very liberal manner, and for the last three years the average amount of church collections yearly, for special religious and charitable purposes, has exceeded L. 10. Education. — Besides the parochial, there are two unendowed schools, recently built, one at each of the mills, and also three smal- ler ones, taught by females, in different parts of the parish. The usual elementary branches are taught in them all. The parochial teacher's salary is the maximum, and his school fees amount to about L. 10. He is provided with all the legal accommodations* With the exception of the blind boy, and the two fatuous persons formerly mentioned, it is believed there are none in the parish above six years of age who cannot read or write. .The people in general are much alive to the benefits of education, and exert themselves to procure for their children the best teaching in their power. The total number of scholars attending all the schools in the parish is about 200. Literature. — There is a small parochial library, and also one at Logie Mill, the volumes of which, consisting of religious and in- structive books, are eagerly sought after by the young, and many of the older people. Savings Banks. — At each of the mills there is a bank kept ex* pressly for^he accommodation of the work people. Besides which, there has been a savings bank established in the parish, since 1815. For the last eight years, the deposits have averaged L.29, and the sums withdrawn L. 24 per annum. It is chiefly the la- bouring class by whom the investments are made, and there can be no doubt of the advant^e which they derive from so doing. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons on the poor's roll is 15, and the average sum allowed to each is Is. weekly, besides one or two extraordinary allowances during the year, and assistance in times of sickness. There are about 15 more who receive occasionally. In addition to which, exclusive of other less onerous demands, there are at present two imbecile ob- 270 FORFARSHIRE. jects who cost the session annually L. 15, 12s. The average an- nual amount of- the poor funds is L. 90, composed as follows : church collections, L. 40 ; donations, L. 20 ; interest of money lent, L. 15; and about L. 15 from seat rents, mortcloth, &c As yet, happily, assessment, either compulsory or voluntary, is ♦un- known amongst us ; and it is gratifying to remark, that there still exists among the people generally a feeling of independence which shrinks from asking parochial relief as long as possible, and which, at the same time, induces them to contribute to their poorer bre- thren so long as they have the means of doing so. Fairs. — There are two fairs now held in this parish, which for- merly used to be in the parish of Dun. They are still held on a part of the moor of Dun, on the second Tuesday of May and the third Thursday of June, and are for the sale principally of cattle and horses. Alehousesj Sfc. — There is a public house at one of the mills, be- sides those at the two toll-houses at the North-water and Mary* kirk bridges, which last are chiefly frequented by travellers, and are in general well kept. Fuel — The fuel commonly used is English coal, procured at the shore of Montrose at from Is. to Is. 3d. per barrel, and frequent- ly also hag or brushwood, which is to be had in great abundance in the parish, and at a very reasonable rate, varying from Is. to ds. per cart load. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the time of the last Statistical Account, (1791,) the two most stiking variations in the state of the parish appear to be the now highly improved system of husbandry, which is nowhere bet- ter understood, — And the great increase, as already mentioned, which has taken place in the manufacturing establishments. With regard to the improvements of which the parish is still susceptible, it may just be noticed, in conclusion, that the great desi- deratum, undoubtedly, is the improvement or amendment of the parish roads, nearly all of which are in a wretched state ; the money hitherto expended upon them being utterly inadequate to keep them in decent repair. But it is hoped and believed that soon more attention will be paid to them, and that the mode of keeping them up will be put on a better footing than at present, — one of them tending to increase the facility of internal communi- cation, and also greatly to enhance the value of property in the parish. January 1835. PARISH OF MONTROSE. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ROBERT SMITH, 1 MINISTERS THE REV. JOSEPH PATERSON, D. D. I I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — In a charter of Renovation and Confirmation, 23d David 11. dated Scone, 6th of March, and in another, 14th Ro- bert IL, dated Mouros, 2d February, — a charter believed to be by David I. to the burgesses of Montrose is engrossed, and al- though, from the tenor of that charter, it appears that Montrose viras a burgh even before, it is the earliest now known to exist, in which it is acknowledged as such. As that charter is rather a curi- osity in itself, and as it is not published in the public records of Scotland, it is given below.* In conformity with that charter, the ancient name of the town is said to have been Celurca or Salorky. The derivation of its present name from Mons Rosarum is evidently fanciful. It re- quires some stretch of imagination, to regard its site as a mountain; neither, from its soil and climate, can it be supposed to have at any time been distinguished for its roses. To this derivation, however, * David Rex Scocie, Episcopis, Abbatibus, Comitibus, Justiciariis, Baronibus, Vice* comitibusy Ministrisque, omnibus ct probis hominibus tocius regni sui, Francis, Scocis, Anglicis, et alils alienigenis tam pra>scntibus quam futuris, salutem. Sciant omnes me dedissie, ooncessisse, et hac prcsentc carta mea confirmassc, dilectis burgendbus meis, to- tam terram meam de Salorkiu, jacentem et situatam juxta portum de Stronnay ver- sus Aquilonem, sicut Raudus de Grantoun, Camerarius mcus, Thor. Vice Comes, et Ricardus Clericus, ca vice prompserunt, quando earn metiti sunt, pro quatuor ca- rucatis terre cum dimidia : Habcndam et tenendam dictam peciam terre, dictis Bur- genaibus meis, in libero burgo, cum omnibus rectitudinibus et liberatibus ad liberum burgum pertinentibus, adeo libere sicut bona villa mea de Perth de me tenetur ; et cum omnibus rectitudinibus empcionis ct vcndicionis legitime pertinentibus ad opus et ofitcium burgensium et mcrcatorum, de aqua de Tbawhoke usque Findonne, ct de Findonne per partes borealcs usque ad aquam de Carudy, et sic desceudendo per par- tes Australes usque ad aquam de Deychty, sicut currit in Drumlay : Volo itaque et concedo ut prcdicti burgenses ct heredes sui prcdictam peciam terre habeant de me, et heredibus meis in perpctuum, bene et in pace, in libero burgo, et quod tam ipsi, he- redes sui, quam omnes homines sui, et res eorundem, sint ad mcam pacem tirmam et protectionem, et heredum meorum in perpetuum, a calumpnia omnium hominum : Testibus, Duncano Comite, Herberto Marescallo, Uicardo Cancellario, Raudo Ca- merario, Alexandro de Straton, Raudo Sowlys, Thor. Vice Comite, Willielmo By- don. — Datum apud Foriare. FORFAR. S 272 FORFARSHIRE. the motto on the town's seal refers, mare ditatj ram decarat. The name in ancient charters, and which is still in common speech ap- plied to it, is Monross, — Ross signifying a promontorj, and Mon or Moinh the back : these two names are certainly descriptive of its situation at the back or more distant part of the promontory. Boundaries^ Extent — It is bounded on the east by the Ger- man Ocean ; on the north and south by the North and South Esk, — the latter separating it from the parish of Craig, and the former from the parish of St Cyrus. The North Esk is also the boundary of the counties of Forfar and Kincardine. On the west this parish is bounded by those of Dun and Logie Pert. Its length between the two rivers is about 3 miles ; its extreme breadth, about the same. Topographical Appearances. — Towards the south, the parish narrows to a peninsula of about a mile in width, formed between the. sea and the basin. On the west side of that peninsula the town is built. Above the bridge, which is nearly a mile from the sea, the river expands into what is called the Basin of Montrose, which at high water presents the appearance of a lake of about nine miles in circumference, — ^a circumstance which not only adds greatly to the beauty of the scenery, but is highly valuable in a commercial point of view, as the quantity of water carried to and from the sea every tide prevents the formation of a bar at the mouth of the river, thus rendering the harbour accessible, at all times of tide, to all except the largest class of vessels. The lower part of the pa- rish is level ; towards the north-west there is a gradual ascent nearly to its junction with the parishes of Dun and Logie. And although the greatest height is inconsiderable, yet, from that part of the pa- rish the view is rich and varied. Diseases. — There are no diseases that can be considered ende- mic in the parish, though it certainly has its due share of catarrhs, rheumatisms, sore throats, and all the common epidemics. In the summer of 1833 we had a very gentle visitation of malignant cholera. Sporadic cases of typhous fever are of frequent occurrence both in the town and neighbourhood ; but this disease has not prevailed to any extent, nor assumed a malignant type since 1819, when the mortality attending it was very great It has been remarked, that genuine Phthisis pulmonalis is less frequent here than in various other parts of the country, though the other forms of scrofula are by no means uncommon. Calculous disorders seem also to be com- paratively rare. Upon the whole, the parish must be considered MONTROSE. 273 healthy, — an inestimable advantage, for which it is probably in a great measure indebted to the dryness of its soil. Geology. — The lower part of the parish b sand to a great depth, and as that sand is mixed with sea shells, it is highly probable that the basin has at one time been a bay. The lower part is separated from the upper for the space of upwards of a mile, by a low mound running nearly parallel with the sea, formed of round water-worn stones or bowls ; whether this mound has been left in its present state by the retiring of the sea, or whether it is not in a great de- gree artificial, affords room for doubt. . The north road is carried along it, and a considerable portion of it has been removed for metal to the roads. Although it is only a few yards in breadth, the soil on the west side of it is of a totally different nature from that on the east, part of it being black loam with a clay bottom, part of it lighter with a gravel bottom. On the estate of Hedderwick there is a limestone quarry, and a great part of the higher grounds in the parish probably rests upon lime. The want of stone in the neighbourhood is, in an economical point of view, a great disadvan- tage to the town. The stones used in building have to be brought from Brechin, a distance of eight miles, or from other quarries about the same distance. Lately a considerable quantity of stone has been brought from the south coast of Fife by sea, and the dif- ference in price between these and what is brought by land is not material. There is a mineral well in the parish still resorted to by people in its immediate neighbourhood : but its reputation does not stand high. Zoology — Under this head, there is little deserving particular notice. The principal varieties of birds that frequent the basin are enumerated in the account of the parish of Craig, and it is unnecessary to repeat them here. The salmon-fishings in the ri- vers which bound the parish, and in stake-nets along the coast, are valuable. The market is abundantly supplied with white fish, chiefly cod and haddocks, also ling, whitings, halibut, turbot, flounders, &c. The families employed in the fishing reside chiefly in Ferryden and Usan, villages in the parish of Craig. From the same quarter, a great many fish are carted for the supply of the in- land parts of the country. Botany. — In this department, the parish does not produce much that is particularly deserving of attention, although it certainly possesses a considerable variety of indigenous plants. The sea 274 FORFARSHIRE. shore, which forms its eastern boundary, being a low sandy beach, aflbrds no support to the AlffCB^ except among the shingles toward the moutlis of tlie North and South Esk, where some of the Con- ftrtxBi Fuciy and iMininaricB occur. The other marine plants in this direction are chiefly the Sahdla Kaliy CakiU maritimoj Eryngium maritimum^ Arenaria jfeploides, Statice Armeria, The extensive range of sand hills skirting the beach is bound down and secured, as in other places, chiefly by the Arundo arenaria, Eltpnus arena-' riuSf and Triticum junceunu Here, also, and along the links, we find the Tragopoyon pratensis, Salix repens, Thalictruni minus^ Astragahis hypoglottis, Gentiana campestris. Ononis arvensis^ in great profusion : Trifoliuni arvense, Medicago lupulina, Convobm" Ills arvensisy &c. The Silene conica, a plant not hitherto recog^ nized as indigenous in Scotland, grows plentifully in the North Links, though it has probably been introduced along with tfie rye- seed, a considerable quantity of which is raised there, as agreeing best with the light sandy soil. Along the margin of the basin, westward of the town, we find the Arenaria marina, Glaux mari- timoy Chvnopodium niaritimum. Aster Tripolium, Triglochin mart" titnum, Cochlcaria officinalis^ Salicomia herbacea with one or two varieties, Scirpus maritimus, &c. Abundance of the curious Zt)stera marina is left by the tide; and, though it does not ap- pear to be actually produced within the boundary of the parish, it is mot with a little higher up the basin, growing in the sea water pools along with the still more curious liuppia maritima. In pastures and by road sides, grows the comparatively rare Ci- chorinm Intyhus ; also Echium vulgare, Papaver Argemone, Centau- rea scahiosa, Marru/rium vulgarc. Nasturtium terrestre, Tanacetum vnlgare, Venmica scutclluta, Lithospemnum aiTCJisc^ Conium macula'^ turn. In marshes and ditches occur the Menyanthes trijhliata, Iris Pseud^Acorus, Sparganium ramosum, Scirpus lacustris, Alisnia PlantayOy lianunculus aquatilis, hederaceus, and sceleratus ; several species of Potamoyeton, Myriophyllum spicatum. Orchis lifolia, Mario, &c. In the more elevated grounds we meet ^iith the Irientalis Europcea, Pyrola minor and secunda, Genista Anglica, Gymnadenia conopsia. In the Cryptoganiic Flora there seems to be nothing very remarkable, though a good many species of Fungi, some of them rare, grow on the links and sand-hills. Within these few years, a considerable quantity of forest trees of various kinds has been planted on the estate of Charlton. There is also some extent of fir on the north-west boundary of the pa- MONTROSE. 275 rish. These, together with the trees about the houses of the prin- cipal proprietors and some of the farm-steadings, constitute almost the whole of the wood in the parish, — so that, upon the whole, it is but scantily supplied with this important article in rural scenery. II. — Civil History. Land'Otoners. — A considerable portion of the land in the im- mediate neighbourhood of the town is in small properties or feus, extending from two to six or eight acres. The principal proprie- tors in the parish, with their valued rents, are George Fullerton Camegy of Charlton and Kinaber, L. 489, I6s. 4d. ; Alexander Renny Tailyour of Borrowfield and Newmanswalls, L.733, 6s. 8d.; John Duncan of Rosemount, L. 406, 4s. ; James Cruickshank of Newbigging, L. 169, lis. 8d. ; George Robertson Scott of Hed- derwick, L. 501, Is. 4d. ; total valued rent, L.2d00. The real rent of the whole parish, as ascertained by a valuation made about four years ago, is, of the burgh, L. 18,700; of the landward part, L. 6656 ; total, L. 25,326. Parochial Registers. — The proceedings of the kirk-session are recorded in seven volumes: 1*^, From 1633 to 1651; 2rf, from 1686 to 1691 ; 3c/, from 1696 to 1724; 4M, from 1724 to 1734; bth, from 1734 to 1787; 6^A, from 1787 to 1815; 7th, from 1815, &c. Historical Notices. — There are no printed histories of Montrose, except such as are to be found in Encyclopaedias, Gazetteers, &c. " 1296. This year, John Comyn, Lord of Strathbolgie, basely and traitorously, contrary to his faith, delivered King John (Bahol) to Edward King of England, at the Castle of Montrois in Angus, in the fourth year of John's reign, and there he surrendered his crown." The crown was snatched from his head, — the ermine torn from his mantle, — the sceptre wrested from his hand, — and every thing taken from him, belonging to the state and dignity of a king. Dressed only in his shirt and drawers, and holding a white rod in his hand after the fashion of penitents, he confessed that, by evil and false counsel, and through his own simplicity, he had grievously offended his liege-lord, recapitulated all the late trans- actions, and acknowledged himself to be deservedly deprived of his kingdom. ♦ * Historians, it is well known, are not agreed in regard to the place where Baliol resigned his crown ; and although the locality of that transaction is hardly a point so much worth contending for as the birth-place of Homer, yet, as among other places it has been assigned to Montrose, and as the opinion that it actually did take place 'there seems to accord with the account we have received of Edward's journey t it 276 FORFARSHIRE. It was from tbe port of Montrose that Lord James Douglas, at- tended with a numerous retinue of knights and esquires, set sail in the spring of 1330, in execution of the last charge committed to bis care by bis deceased master, King Robert Bruce, to carry his heart to Jerusalem to be deposited in the Holy Sepulchre. John Erskine, Laird of Dun, and grandfather to the associate of John Knox in promoting the Reformation in Scotland, treated the inhabitants of Montrose in the most tyrannical and arbitrary manner. The oppressions of him and of his family at length be- came 80 insupportable, that the town applied to the king for re- dress, and in the subjoined Royal warrant, issued in consequence of that application, we have a striking and interesting illustration of the state of the country in feudal times. * Thu John the Balliol dyspoyled he Of all bis robys of ryaltic. The pdure thai tuk off )iis tabart, Tume tabart he was callyt aftyrwart." WyNTON, Vol. ii. p. 68. been thought proper to mention it. The former part of the statement in the text is ex- tracted from Sir James Bal4»ur*s Annals, and a similar account is given by Wynton. This John the Balliol, on purpos, He tuk and browcht hym til Munros, And in the castell of that town, That then was famous in renown, * '* Summons of Spulzie, Burgh of Montrose v. Erskine of Dun, 4th October 1499. — James, be the grace of God, King of Scottis, till our Scheref of Forfare ande his deputis, & to our louittis, Alexander Bannerman, Js. Ramsav & John of Strauch- auchlin, St Andro Gardiner, oure Schereflis in that part, conjunctlies and severallie speciallic constitut, greeting, — Forsamekle as it is humily menit Sc complenlt to us, by our louittes, the bailzeis, burgcssis, & communitc uf our burgh of M ontross, that now of laite John of Erskin, lounger of Dun, Maister Robt Krskin, Walter Erskin, & Thomas Erskin, with their complicis, household folkis, & servitoris to John Erskin, elder of Dun, & of bis causing, has maisterfully eitc & distroit all yair cornis yat grew yis zere upone ye comraone landis of our said burgh : & incontinent thereafter, ye saidis pcrsonis, with yair complicis bodin in fere of, were with spcris and bowis come to our said burgh under silence of nycht for ye destruction 8c sluuchtere of oure ]eige% inhabitants yairo^ & bostit ye alderman of ye samyn, he being in his bed, saying yai suld pul down his houss above his bede : And alss, quhar ye fycharis of our said burgh, Jrair wyffis 8t servandis, were now of laite gederandc bait to yair lynis, in our watter, ikeas vaihafiTusit & done but impediment, sene yc first foundacion of our said burgh, ye said John Erskin, elder, send his servitoris & folkis & spoilzeit yaim of yair clathis, & as zit witbholdis ye samyn, & rydis bodln in fere of were, nychtly and dailie waltis ve nychtburis of our saide burgh for yair uttir distruction & slauchtcr ; and -haldis his folkis onbushit in his Innis, within our said burgh, to invaid ye nychtburis yairof in yat wise, yat for dreid of yair lyflis yai dare not pass utouth ye sain3ni to merkates, nor nain by-placis, bot are opprcssit and haldcn ondcr subjection by ye saidis personis & yair complices, by ye committing of yir injuiris, & mony uyeris oppressionis upon yaim, bath of aid Sc new, as diveriss billis & complaintis present to us, onder the se- crete sele of our said burgh yereupon proportis, to the grit lychtlying and dcrogacionc of our autorite riall in yat pairt, yat is oblist to defend al our legis fra oppressione both to burgh Sc land within our realme, & in evil example to uyeris to committ sic- lykc offenses, geff we suffer yir unpunist, — Our will is herefore, & we charge zou straitly, & commandis, yat ze peremptorilie summonde, warn, & charge yc siiidis Johne of Erskin, elder, John of Erskin, zounger, Maister Robert Erskin, Walter Erskin, & Thomas Erskin, to compere before us, & our counsale at Edinburgh, or quhare it MONTROSE. 277 In the year 1648, the town was visited by the plague, as appears from the following entry in the session record. ^^ Because of ane fearfull prevailing pestilence entered into the city, enlarging and spreading itself, dailie destroying and cutting down many, which occasioned ane scattering and outgoing of all the members of ses- sion to landward, for their refuge and saiftie, therefore there was no session nor collection in this our church of Montrose betwixt the last of May 1648, and the 1st of Februarii 1649." In February 1716, James, the first pretender, sailed from Mon- trose, a vessel having been prepared to carry him off, and the prin- cipal part of his chieftains. At eight o'clock at night, having ordered his horse to the door of the house where he lodged, with all his guards mounted in the usual manner, he went from his lodg- ings by a back door to those of the Earl of Mar, and thence, in company with the Earl and one domestic, by a private footpath, to the water side, where a boat was in waiting, which carried them aboard the Maria Teresa of St Maloes. Montrose was the only town in Scotland, so late as the com- mencement of the eighteenth century, where a person could be sail happen us to be fur ye time, ye secund day of November nixt to cum, gif it be lauehful, and faikeing yairof, ye nixt laucliful yairafter following, in the houre of cause, with continuacione of dais, to answere to us upon the committing of saidis spulzie> oppressionis, 8c injuris contenit in yc saidis billis, upon our leiges inhabitant of our said burgh, balth of old and new, and upon ye contcmpcione done to our au« torite riall yerthrow : And in it yat we sail mak be said to yem yairfore in our name at yair coming ; and to answere at ye instance of the alderman, bailzcis, burgesses, & communite of our said burgh, for the wranguiss dcstruccione of yair saidis cornis, ex- tending to XVI bollis of aitis, with yc fodcr, price viii merkis ; ande spoilzeing and withhalding of ye saidis claitlils fra ye saidis fycharis, yair wyffis, and servandis, ex- tending to ye avale of v libri, and ane m&st of a schip, with the tow & takle of yc sa- myn, spoilzeit fra yaim out of ye havin of ye saide burgh by ye saidis Johne & Johne ; price XX merkis ; and for ye costis, dampnage, & scaitht sustenit by yaim throw ye saidis oppressionis & injuris : and forycr, to answere to us and to yc party, in sa far as law will, making intimation to ye saidis personis, yat, quheyer yai compere or uocht ye saidis day & place with continuacciune of dais, we will proceed and minister justice in the saide mater, in sa far as we may of law ; and attour yat ve summonde Thomas Scote, John Scote, Nycole Malcolme, Thomas Wowar, & Alexander Lid- dale, to compere before us and our counsale ye saidis day 8c place, with continuacione of dais, to bear lele and suythfast witnessing, in sa far as yai know or sal be sperit at yaim in ye said mater, under al pane and charge yat cfter may follow : and attour yat ye pass & tak sikkcn sourte and lawborrows of ye saidis personis & yair complicis yat sail be given to you in bill, yat ye saidis alderman, bailzies, burgessoss, or comu- nite, will mak faitht before you yat thai dreid bodily harm of, yat is to sal, of ye saide John Erskin, elder, under ye pain of five hundredth pundis, & of ilk ane of his saidis •onis, jc. libri ; and ye remnant ilk gentilman landit, jc libri ; ilk gentilman unlandit, jc merkis ; & ilk zeman, xl. libri, yat ye saidis alderman, baUzeis, burgesses 8c com- munite of our said burgh, sal be harmless & scaitlilcss of yaim, and all yat yc ma lett but fraude, orgil, uyerwais yan ye common course of law will, and yis ye do as yc will answere to us hereupon. Tlie quhilke to do wc committ to zou, conjunctlie 8t severallie, oure full power by yir letteris, delivering yaim be you duely execute & en- dondte agan ye oyth berar. *' Given under our Segnete at Stiruoling, yc ferde day of October, & of oure regnc ye sext zere. " Per S. D. N. Rcgem in persona propria cum avisamcnto concillii, (Signed) ** J. Chkpmake." 27*^ FORFARSHIRE. found who understood the management of pumps in coal-works : this was John Young, a citizen of Montrose, who had been sent over to Holland by the magistrates, for the purpose of learning the most improved modes of constnicting and using windmills. Eminent Men. — James Graham, Marquis of Montrose, who makes so distinguished a figure in the civil wars of the seventeenth century, first as the champion of the covenant, and afterwards in the service of the king, was born at Montrose in 1612. In 1534, John Erskine of Dun, afterwards superintendant of Angus, brought from the continent a Frenchman of the name of Marsilliers, capable of teaching the Greek language, and establish- ed him in Montrose, which is believed to have been the first place in Scotland where this noble tongue, previously almost unknown in the country, and an acquaintance with which was deemed to imply a tendency to heresy, was taught. Andrew Melville, who has been styled the Father of Presbytery in Scotland, born in the neighbouring parish of Craig, was educat- ed in Montrose ; and when, in his fourteenth year he was removed to the University of St Andrew's, he surprised his teachers by his knowledge of Greek, with which they were wholly unacquainted. Here also James Melville, the nephew of Andrew, attended school, and gives, in his Diary, a very interesting account of the manner in which his education was conducted, and also of the kindness he ex- perienced from the then minister of Montrose. III. — Population. In 1755, the population of this parish was . 4150 1790, about the date of last Report, it was . G194 1801, by census, - - - 7974 1811, - - - 8955 1821. . - - 10338 1831, - - - ^ - 12055 In the last census sailors were not included. Tlieir number may be from 700 to 800. Since 1831 the population has still conti- nued to increase. In 1833 the proclamations were 89; baptisms registered, 140; burials, 293. The proclamations and burials are correct, but the baptisms are not nearly one-half of the actual number baptised, — a circumstance which shows clearly the neces- sity of a legislative enactment rendering it imperative upon parents to attend to this important matter. Besides the families employed in trade, manufactures, &c. there are considerable numbers who, from various causes, have chosen Montrose as their residence; and hence there is in it a class of society superior to what is to be found in many countrj' towns of like size. MONTROSE, 279 Language^ Customs^ S^c. — One great peculiarity which strikes a stranger from the south, in the language of the common people in this county, and in the neighbouring counties on the north, is the use of y for whj ^sfan^far^ &c. for when^ where, &c. Except by the better classes, the lowland Scotch is universally spoken with a strong provincial accent Amusements, — Golf playing, a pleasant and healthy exercise, for which the links afford one of the best grounds in Scotland, is much practised by all ranks and all ages. Cricket has also of late years been introduced. The theatre and horse-racing may be numbered among the things that were in Montrose, — the building for the former having been converted into dwelling-houses, and the race- course not having for a number of years been applied to its original purpose. Players, however, still occasionally visit the town, and per- form in places of temporary accommodation, — little, it is believed, either for their own profit, or the improvement of their audience. Habits and Character of the People. — When, a few years ago, cholera threatened the town, great exertions were made to promote among the lower ranks attention to cleanliness, the want of which was then ascertained to exist to an extent of which previously many had no idea ; and, although some may have been thus brought to see and to feel its advantages, yet there is still considerable room for improvement in this respect The general abundance and consequent cheapness of fish, while it is an advantage to all the inhabitants, is peculiarly > so to the poorer classes, as compared with those who live in more inland districts. There are very few grown up persons who cannot read ; and although here, as elsewhere, different opinions are entertained in regard to civil and ecclesiastical matters, these have not occa- sioned such asperities, nor so marred the pleasures of social inter- course, as in some other places; nor, upon occasions which bring the people together, and upon which their conflicting opinions are most likely to influence the conduct, has any of that tendency to rioting, of which we hear elsewhere, been manifested by them. The easy access to libraries, and the extent to which the inhabit- ants avail themselves of the privilege, have tended greatly to dif- use intelligence and general information among all ranks. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The whole number of acres in the parish is about 3080 Scotch measure, of which, with the exception of the beach along the sea shore, and some steep banks on tl\,e North Esk, the J 280 FORFARSHIRE. whole may be said to be arable. The character of the soil in the lower part of the parish has already been referred to. A consider rable portion of the estate of Borrowfield is moss, now completely improved, and in a state of high cultivation; the higher grounds to the north-west are thin and moorish. Rent of Land. — The average rent of land throughout the whole parish may be stated at about L. 3. Some of the acres in the im- mediate neighbourhood of the town let at from L. 6 to L. B. HuAandry, — The chief difference between the mode of forming in this and in the neighbouring parishes is perhaps the greater proportion of green crop which is raised, — grass and turnips always finding a ready market, and generally bringing a high price. Tlie exact amount of agricultural produce raised in the parish, it has been found impossible to ascertain. Manufactures. — The principal manufacture in Montrose is flax- spinning and weaving. There are five flax spinning -mills in the parish, — four of which are moved by steam power; the other, which is on the North Esk, is driven by water. On the same river there are, in the neighbouring parish of Logic, other two mills connected with those in Montrose. The steam power by which the four mills in the town are driven is equal to 129 horse power. The four mills in the tf>wn ^ produce annually 854,869 spindles ; the two in Logic |mriHh, «)02,224 ditto. Of the yarn spun part is manufactured by ihi! fnill Hpinners, and part of it sold to other manufacturers. The following \n as mxurate a statement as could be obtained of the iirnriMfit of cloth made hero, or at agencies in the neighbourhood. fyaf/rM,~''T\u} following are the present wages of manufacturing InlioiinrfN : muiwrn fnun Hh. to I4h. u-week, few so high as the lat- ter rate; children at the niillH from 2s to 3s. 6d. ; and women's wug years ago, when, having been rofidemned im diin^erous it was taken down. A new steeple is just roiiipleted from ii tle*«ign by Mr (lillespie Graham, architect It roiinintn nf an elegant imtl massy (lothic tower, upwards of 100 feet \\\\i\\% Hunnounted by a spire nearly of the same height. In iM'Jtl, It rliitp(«l of ease (now St John's Church) was open- eil for pnblir worrtliip. It is seated for about 1500, and is neatly lilted up ill the iiinitle. Ht Peter'n Mpim'opal chapel in the links was founded in 1722, mill ih a neat anti conimtMlious place of worship. The town-house, wliii'li htaiiilH ill the High Strt»et, and disfigures the street by en- eroai'liing ton far npeii it, contains the council-room, guild-hall, eoiirt room, eotUH»-rouring MX or seven months of the year, the Aberdeen steam-boats take in and land goods and passengers. There are three toll-roads in the parish ; — the Aberdeen road, one to Mar^kirk bridge, and the Brechin road; of each of the two former, about three miles are in the parish, and nearly a mile of the later. Ecclesiastical State. — The church of Montrose is collegiate; each minister has a district both of the town and country part of the pa- rish. These districts do not seem to have been assigned by any authority, but rather to have been adopted as matter of private ar- rangement, as they have occasionally been altered to meet the changes in the population. In terms of the act of last General Assembly, a district in the town, with a population of about 3000, has been assigned to the chapel of ease. The sacrament is dis- pensed twice a-year in the church and chapel. The number of communicants in the former varies from 1700 to 2200; the average may be about 2000; in the latter, 400. But, as a considerable proportion of those in regular communion with the church commu- nicate only once a-year, the above numbers are greatly below the actual number of communicants in the parish. There was neither manse nor glebe in the parish previous to the decision of the House of Lords in the case of Ayr in 1827. In consequence of that decision, the presbytery of Brechin, upon a pe- tition from the minister in the first charge, designed a glebe of the legal extent) viz. four acres, together with half an acre for the site of manse, garden, &c The glebe might rent for about L. 20. The manse was built in 1830. The stipend of the first charge, paid MONTROSE. 285 from the teinds, is 19 chalders, half meal and half barley, the va- lue of which, according to the fiars prices of the county, upon an average of the last seven years, is L. 295, 5s. lOd., with L. 10 for communion elements. The stipend in the second charge is paid from an annuity raised in terms of an act of the Scottish Parlia- ment, 1690. The act authorizes five per cent upon the rents of all houses in the burgh ; but, from the increase of the town, it has not for some time past been necessary to levy to that amount. A few years ago, the incumbent, and the magistrates who levy the as- sessment, not being able to agree as to the amount of stipend, an action was raised before the Court of Session, who fixed it at L. 840 ; and the assessment required to realize that sum, including the expenses of collection, is 2^ per cent. The minister in the second charge has neither manse nor glebe. The stipend of the minister in the chapel of ease is L. 150, with L. 12, at each of the sacraments, for communion elements. The only funds are the seat rents, and twelve collections allowed to be made yearly. There are two Episcopalian chapels in the town, one not in con- nection with the Episcopal church in Scotland, the other under the Bishop. There are two congregations in connection with the United Associate Synod, one of Methodists, one of Baptists, one x)f Glassites, and one of Independents. The greater part of these congregations are small, and a proportion of their members come from the neighbouring parishes. Although there are many who pay little or no attention to religious ordinances, yet in general the stated congregations are regular in their attendance upon their respective places of worship. Number of families attending Established church, 2072 ; fami- lies attending chapels of Dissenters and Seceders, 441 ; families attending Episcopalian chapels, ^93. Eight or 10 iamilies f)ro- fess to be Roman Catholics : and about 99 families are of no re- ligious persuasion. Societies for Religious purposes — There is in the town a So- ciety auxiliary to the Edinburgh Bible Society; an association in aid of the General Assembly's Highland Schools, and the Mission in India,' has lately been formed in this parish. There is a Penny a-week society, the funds of which are annually divided among se- veral school and missionary societies. There is also a Methodist missionary society. Education. — There are in the academy a rector, who teaches mathematics, geography, and French, two English teachers, two for writing and arithmetic, and two for Latin. The salary of the 286 FORFARSHIRE. rector is L. 50, thai of the first Latin teacher L. 40; with all the fees. The second has L. 50, paid from a mortification; one of the English teachers has L. 40, and the other, together with the teach- in^ of writing and arithmetic, L. 25 each. The number at pre- sent attending the academy is about 347. The fees in the rec- tor^s classes are 10s. 6d. a quarter, for each of the branches taught by him ; for Latin, 7s. 6d.; when Greek is taught along with Latin, it is 5s. additional; writing 6s. and with arithmetic 7s.; English, 5s. In the country part of the parish, there is a school under the ma- nagement of the kirk-session, the teacher of which has a school- rrxim, a dwelling-house and garden, with L. 2 of salary. The numlier attending it is about 80. There is a free school from a mortification by Miss Stratton, in which 42 boys and 35 girls are taught. The salary of the male and female teachers is the inte- rcut of L. 900. There is another free school founded by Mr David White, late merchant in Montrose, in which 100 scholars are taught The teacher's salary is L. 36, with dwelling-house and gar- den. In these two schools, the pupils pay no fees Two years ago, the trades erected a school of two departments, one for English, the other for writing and arithmetic. The teachers in these schools have no salaries. At last examination the number attending the Eng- lish school was 160, and those at the school for writing and arithme- tic, 80. In last autumn, an infant school was opened, and is attended by about 130. In addition to these, there are upwards of twenty pri- vate schools, male and female, attended by about 700 children. Although it cannot be said but that the means of instruction are within the reach of all, and although there are some who can neither read nor write, in consequence of the carelessness of pa- rents in neglecting to avail themselves of these means, yet there is still a want of public schools for a class who do not altogether stand in need of gratis teaching, but who cannot afford to pay the fees charged at any of the public schools. A private teacher is often constrained to teach in a small inconvenient room, unfavour- able to both the health and the progress of the children, and when he obtains a better situation his scholars are dispersed and forced to seek instruction elsewhere. Besides, in a moral and religious point of view, it is of great consequence that the teachers of so large a proportion of our youth should be so appointed and superintended, as to be ever kept in mind of the responsibility of their situation. Many of the teachers have evening schools for the benefit of such as have to work during the day ; and in this respect, the late Act of Parliament, shortening the time at the spinning mills, has beeii MONTROSE. 287 found to be very beneficial, — many of the young people who work at the mills attending these schools after working hours. The teachers of the free schools are bound to teach on Sabbath evening, and, besides these, there is a number of other Sabbath schools. The total number of children attending school is 1634 — after deducting 40 who attend both teachers of the Trades' School. Libraries. — A public Library was established in 1785, and con- 4;ains, along with many ephemeral publications, a fair collection of standard works in divinity, histor}', and literature. The subscrip- tion is a guinea a year; the number of subscribers is upwards of 100 ; and the number of volumes about 7000. There is a library belong- ing to the Montrose Reading Society, the subscription to which is 4s. 4d. annually, and which contains a pretty extensive collection of books. The session has a parish Library, consisting chiefly of re- ligious books ; and there is one of the same kind connected with the chapel. Lunatic Asylum^ Infirmary^ and Dispensary. — In 1779, the at- tention of the magistrates and of the influential persons of the town and neighbourhood was directed towards the importance of having a proper place for the confinement of lunatics, and for the reception of sick and diseased persons, in indigent circumstances. Contribu- tions were raised, and a building erected for the accomplishment of these purposes. The building having been repeatedly enlarged since then, is now extensive and commodious, and stands in a healthy and well-aired situation. In 181 1 a Royal charter was obtained for the institution. Its affairs are conducted by 50 managers. The provost and first bailie, and the two parish ministers, are ex officio managers. Of the others, thirty are required to be inhabitants of the burgh, eleven landed proprietors, and five clergymen of parishes in the neighbourhood. Besides a keeper and matron, there is in the house a resident medical superintendent In connection with the Infirmary and Dispensary, the town is divided into six districts, the poor in which are visited by six of the medical practitioners. From the report laid before the last annual meeting, it appears that there were then in the house 65 lunatics, and that in the course of the preceding year 1 1 had been discharged cured ; that in the infirmary, there were then 12 patients ; that during the year, 58 had been discharged cured, and 15 relieved ; and that 489 out-door patients had received advice and medicines. The institution hav- ing been originally erected as a charitable institution, by means of subscriptions, several lunatic patients from the parish of Montrose FORFAR. T 288 FORFARSHIRE. are admitted gratis, and some from the neighbouring pariaiicg at the reduced rate of L*. 12 a-year. There is a Society io the town for the relief of the destitute sick, supported by subscriptions and donations; the expenditure of which, in 1834, was L. 123, 14s. There is also a Society for the re- lief of indigent females. Friendly Societies. — Previous to the act passed a few years ago re- lative to Friendly Societies, there was a considerable number of these institutions in this place. The greater part of them, alarmed by the difficulties they apprehended in conforming to the enactments of that statute, have since been dissolved. Material injury has thus been done to many who trusted that in their dechning years they, with the aid to which they were entitled from that source, would have been enabled to avert the necessity of applying for parochial relief. The small dividends received by the members will soon be exhausted, and there is reason to fear an increase of pauperism even more rapid than hitherto. Saving Banks. — A Savings Bank was established here in April 1815, and has been continued ever since; and although it has been very useful to many, yet it has not proved sufficiently beneficial to that class it was intended to serve, nor do they seem to appreciate it The depositors are chiefly female servants, and industrious trades- men who are possessed of small sums under L. 10 ; the deposits, when they exceed that sum, being transferred to the other banks. There are few who make weekly or monthly payments agreeably to the intention of such institutions. There are at present 318 de- positors, and the amount belonging to them is L. 1307, which is lodged with the Montrose branch of the National Bank of Scot- land. There is also a Sarings bank connected with one of the spinning mills, for the accommodation of the labourers employed in it. Poor Funds. — The ordinary income and expenditure of the session for 1834 is as follows : — Expenditure* Monthly pensioners, 263, L. 273 d Occasional supply at ses- sion meetings, 229, - 25 16 1 Weekly pensions, 141, - 625 3 6 Pensioners residing in other parishes, - - 72 14 Lunatics, - - 40 16 10 Poors' coffins, - - 11 16 Salaries, minister's stipend, &c 40 16 8 Sundries, - - 47 13 7 L. C40 4 34 L. 1137 19 8 Income, Collections in the church and chapel, - L. 291 5 114 Mortcloth and burials, - 42 10 74 Rents of land and church scats, 273 4 54 Grave-stones, 2 8 7 Donations, 15 2 1 Pensioners* effects. 4 1 1 Penalties, 1 Sundries, 10 11 6 MONTROSE. 289 From the above statement, it will be seen that the ordinary ex- penditure of the session greatly exceeds its income. The de- mands upon the funds have of late been rapidly increasing. In order to meet them, and, if possible, to avoid the necessity of hav- ing recourse to a compulsory assessment, — an evil to be deprecated in any case, and which may eventually be rendered altogether un- necessary, when the prospects there are of considerable additions to the funds for the support of the poor in this place shall be rea- lized — the inhabitants have with great propriety agreed to a vo» luntary assessment, for the present year, of sevenpence a-pound upon the house rents. By the sum which this, if levied, will amount to, the session will be enabled to meet the demands upon it without increasing its debt One great cause of the increase of pauperism in towns is the shortness of the time requisite for acquiring a legal settlement Many men, with their families, after they are unable for the heavy work in the country, come to the town, and contrive, as day-labourers, to support themselves for a few years, when they find it necessary to apply for parochial aid. The dissolution of the Friendly Societies already referred to, and the unnecessary in- crease of public-houses, have also tended to increase the demands upon the session funds. Besides the funds under the management of the session, there is the Hospital Fund, consisting of certain lands and teinds granted to the town of Montrose by King James VL, 1587, out of church lands annexed to the Crown. From that fund, which is under the management of the town-council, monthly pensions are paid to a number of poor people. The sum divided last year was L. 160. From the guildry funds small collections are made to decayed bur- gesses, and to the widows of such. Martificaiions. — The family of Hedderwick mortified a small sum to the poor at large, both in the town and country parish, and another to purchase for the poor in the country parish Bibles and New Testaments. There are several sums of mortified money, the interest of which is annually divided by the trustees, who' are generally some of the magistrates and the ministers : — Miss Stratton's fund, the interest of L. 900 to 10 poor gentlewomen ; Mrs Innes' do. the interest of L. 1000 to 10 poor widows; Mr White's do. the inte- rest of L. 800 to 20 householders ; Bailie Auchterlony's do. the interest of L. 560 to the poor in general ; Miss Mill's do. the in- terest of L. 467; Miss Graham's do. the interest of h. 100; Mr 290 FORFARSHIRE. Frazer's do. the interest of L. 500 ; Mr Mill's do. the interest of L. 1000; Provost Christie's do. the interest of L*. 100; Mr Cooper's do. the interest of L«.50. John Erskine, Esq. of the parish of St James, in the county of Cornwall, Jamaica, left by his will, dated October 1786, the sum of L. 2000, the annualrent of which was to be applied, by trustees named by him, for the be- nefit of ten poor families, with three children each ; and also the sum of h, 3000, the annualrent of which, after paying L. 50 to an additional teacher in the grammar-school of Montrose, was to be divided among eight poor boys, who had lost one or both their parents, to attend said school. In 1801, the trustees laid out the above sum in the purchase of land, — a transaction which has proved highly advantageous to the charity. Last year, after paying the L. 50 to the teacher, each of the eight boys upon the charity re- ceived L. 17, 4s., and each of the ten families L. 12, 12s. The male heirs of the testator are patrons. Inns. — There" is one good Inn in the town. The number of persons licensed to sell spirits is about 130 ; and here as elsewhere we have often cause to complain of the demoralizing effects which the facility of procuring ardent spirits has upon the people; much of the poverty and wretchedness which exist, and a great propor- tion of the CfOscs requiring parochial relief, may be traced to that source. Fml. — The fuel used is coal. In the dwelling-houses, almost universally English coal, in the public works a great deal of Scotch coal in coriHumed. General Observations. Sinci; last Te\wri of the parish, the population has been doubled ; while the church accommodation, even then too scanty, has been increuMMl only about one-half; the tonnage of the shipping has \HSim more than trebled ; the exports and imports have increased in a Htill greater ratio; the manufactures have been almost entirely creatmmunion cups was also presented to the parish, and bears this inscription, — ^^ Ex dono Eliz. Smith, in usum parochias de Oathlaw, 17B9/' Kducatian. — Hie parish school is the only one in the parish. The branches commonly taught are, reading, writing, arithmetic, I^tin, and ge^igraphy. The salary is the maximum, L. 34, 4s;. 6d. and theamount of school fees may at present be about L. 1& llie Utwtthar has rather more than the legal accommodation. The general exi)ense of education per year may be about 15s. There are dmparatively few between 6 and 15 years of age unable to read or write, and fewer still above that age. There is no part of the |Mirif»h so distant as to prevent attendance, and no additional schools are re<|uired. The people are in general very much alive to the be- nefits of elatid*s History of the Druids. FORFAR. Y 328 FORFARSHIRE. profit, 100 ; undivided common, 90 ; and about 15 acres of Scotch fir. JRent of handy ^c. — The average rent of an imperial acre of cul- tivated land is about L. 2 SterUng. The price of grazing an ox or cow L. 2, and if kept through the winter on turnips and straw, L. 2 more. Sheep may be pastured for the year at L. 7 per score. The cattle are the pure Angus breed, and the black-polled. On > one farm, the Angus is crossed with the Teeswater breed, which makes them much stronger, more valuable, and fit for the butcher one year sooner. The state of husbandry is not inferior to that of any in the country. Two successive grain crops are never taken with- out a fallow or green crop intervening. The duration of leases is nine- teen years. The farm-steadings are in general very indifferent. Some of them, however, are undergoing repairs. Except on the farm of Arbikie, there are few fields in the parish that are inclosed ; the land being better adapted for grain than pasture. Inclosures would, no doubt, be highly beneficial, and if the farmer had less discourag- ingTprospects than he has, owing to the depressed state of the grain markets, these and other improvements would be made, which would mutually benefit the landlord and tenant. At the influx of the Lunan into the sea, and along the sea coast, salmon-fishing, by means of stake-nets, is carried on very success- fully. Produce. — The total value of the annual produce of grain raised in the pariah may be estimated at . L 4160 Potatoes and turnips. Hay and pasture, .... Flax, Gardens, .... Fisheries, ' .... L. 6,394 V. — Parochial Economy. Market-^oums. — The market-towns are Montrose and Arbroath, the former at a distance of four, and the latter of eight miles from the greater part of the parish. Means of Communication^ ^c. — The nearest post-oflice is that of Chance Inn, in the neighbouring parish of Inverkeilor. There are six publilj coaches that pass through the parish, each lawful day, — three to the south, and an equal number to the north. The coast road to Edinburgh, on which these coaches pass, intersects the parish. The other roads are maintained by the statute labour, and are, in general, well adapted to the wants of the population. 824 910 a 40 40 420 LUNAX. 329 There is no public-house in the parish, — a circumstance upon which we have good grounds to congratulate ourselves, if we consi- der the demoralizing effects which low ale-houses uniformly produce in other quarters. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated at the south-eastern g atr e mity of the parish, and would be very inconvenient for the great majority of the population, if the parish were not a small one. None of the parishioners, however, are more than two miles from the church. This fabric is very ancient There is no authentic account of its date. The manse was built in 1 783^ and repaired and enlarged in 1827. It stands on an elevated situation, about a mile to the north- east of the church. The extent of the glebe is 8.25 imperial acres. Its value may be estimated at L. 15 per annum. The stipend is 90.25 bolls of grain, L.d5, 7s. lid. in money, and (this being one of the small livings) L. 44, 10s. dd. from Government. There is only one Dissenter in the parish. The number of heads of families attending the parish church is 43^ and the average number of communicants is 158 ; but nearly 30 of these are from the neighbouring parishes. The amount of collections yearly, on an average of the last se- ven years, is L. 18, 4s. lid.; and for religious and charitable objects about L. 3, — a sum by no means small, considering the number and the nature of the population, which is entirely agricultural. Education. — The parish school has been found quite sufficient for the education of the parish, and is, at present, filled by a very efficient teacher. It is attended by about 60 scholars. The branches of education are those usually taught in parish schools ; and the fees for reading are 10s. ; reading and writing, 125.; and when arithmetic is combined, 16s.: the languages or mathematics L. 1 per annum. The salary of the schoolmaster is L. 31, including an allowance for a garden, and the school fees may amount to about L. 25 an- nually. It is believed that there are none in the parish above nine years of age, who cannot read and write with more or less accuracy. David Jamieson, a farmer in the parish, bequeathed, many years ago, 2000 merks Scots, one-half of the interest of which to go to the poor's funds, and the other half to the schoolmaster, for the education of six poor children. The kirk> session have lately appropriated the annuity of 6s. 8d. left by Mr Peddie's widow, for the purpose of forming a parish li- brary. 330 FORFARSHIRE. Savings Bank. — There is also a savings bank oonneoied with that of Inverkeilor. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The numb^ of iDdii^uals aHpran sent on the poor's roll is 10, and the average sum^ alloltod |q ea 46. lid. Ml«CBLLANBOU6 OBSSRVATfO^S. The rapid improvements, in. agricultiire that have- taJieii pbioe^ within the last forty years, bav/e considerably changed) the aspeel of the country. The Long serpentine, high ccowned ridges, so. uninemal undti the ancient mod& of husbandry^ have entirely, given place. to* tba straight, level, and well-formed ridge of modem agriculture. The old system of knoll and natural pasture, so hostile to tbe graas crop, and ruinous to the land, is nowhere to be met. with,, bub in the shape of noxious, weeds torn up with the harrow, and: laid out to rot for the purpose of manure. In the day« of our. fathen«^nfOv^ grass and clover were almost unknown ; and even when, they came to be used, it was some time before the old prejudice in favour of the natural grass would allow the farmer to make trial of them.. It is only within the last forty or fifty years, that the change hasbeiBn completely and happily effected. The farmers are now. every where alive to the modern syfiteoLof agriculture, so that it may be said with truth, the present is the age ^' where two blades of grass have been made to grow, where only one grew before." And it surely affords.no small proof of the rapid improvement in this branch of human industry to know, that, while the value of agricultural produce is, at present, much the same as it was forty years, ago, the fanners live in & style of comfort unknown to their forefathers, and that the finest fields, in the parish have^ within that period, increased their rental from ids. to Lb 3 per acre. Qot while such has been the universal improvement in agricuL ture, and, we may add, of society in general, it is a subject of deep regret, that comparatively little attention has. been paid to the bumble abodes of the poor, and the often comfortless habitations of the cottagers. Scotland, in this respect, is very far inferior to England. It is in vain that we look for the neatly white-washed LUNAX. 331 cottages, with roses and evergreens encircling their doors and win- dows, with the small but tasteful cottage garden in front, which is often to be met with, and so universally admired in England. And why should this be the case ? It is generally, though very errone- ously, ascribed*to the halnts and tastes of the Scottish peasantry. Itjs urged, that,*^although they had cottages not inferior to those in England, they have neither the taste nor the inclination to keep them in pro|)er order. From experience we cati contradict the truth of this statement, and we think it hard to cast a stigma up- on a whole nation, and ungenerous to pass this sweeping condem- nation, without giving them a fair trial. It were surely but justice to give them cottages neat and tottifortable^ and then to wait for the itsi]io» llie oottagts, at present, are, in general, incapable of being rendered either comfortable for the cottager, or a pleasing spectacle to the beholder ; nor can We hope for any great improve- ment, till the proprietors of land begin to take some interest in the matter. Of late years, our farm-houses have been very much improved, and farm steadings have been rendered commodious and iKeful) and in many instances, have been finished with much ele- gance and taste. But, amid improvements so general and useful, the cottage of the poor man has hitherto, with few exceptions^ te^ muned in its pristine state of wretchedness and want of coknfbrt. Would it not be for the mutual benefit of the proprietor and far- mer, aa it would mightily add to the comfort and happiness of the cottager, were the proprietor to build two or three neat, commo- dious cottages upon every large farm, with a small portion of gar- deb ground attached to each ? — the farmer to hold them in pos- i^esdion, and to keep them in repair during the currency of his lease, Md pay the proprietor a small per centage for the outlay of capi- tal, which Would amount to vei*y little. Three good subtantial cot- tages (the farmer to drive the carriages) might b& built for some- what less than L» lOO. This sum laid out on each exti^nsive farm, and g^aduaHy till the whole were completed^ would be no great slicrifioe to the landlord, while it would give a degree of comfoft to out 5ottage peasantry, wjiich it seldom falls to their lot to eit- perience* The cottages in Scotland have ever been proverbial for want of neatness and comfort. It is hoped that this stigma will not much longer i^est upoh our country. September 1886. PARISH OF ARBIRLOT. PRESBYTERY OF ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. THOMAS GUTHRIE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Namcy Extent^ ^c. — Arbirlot seems to be a contraction of Aberelliot, the ancient name of this parish, which refers to the circumstance, that the river Elliot here enters the sea. The pa- rish is about 4 miles long and 3 broad, and is bounded on the south by the sea ; on the east by the parish of Arbroath ; on the west by the parish of Panbride ; and on the north by the parish- es of 8t Vigeans and Carmyllie. Topographical Appearances. — A considerable portion of the pa- rish consists of what may be called flat land, and the rest has a gradual elevation, not attaining such an altitude as to deserre being called hilly. The extent of sea coast is betweoQ two and three miles; and along its whole length, the shore is flat and sandy, affording excellent bathing ground to considerable numbers, who come here during the bathing season. Hydrography. — There is a chalybeate spring in the parish, of some little celebrity, though it is not now so much frequented as formerly. The Elliot is a stream which rises in Dilty Moss in the parish of Carmyllie ; from thence it pursues a south-easterly course, and after being joined by two or three smaller streams, it falls into the sea in the east part of the parish. Mineralogy^ Sfc. — The strata dip to the south ; the rocks are red sandstone and trap, containing considerable quantities of rock- crystal. The soil, though on some farms clayey, generally con- sists of a light rich loam lying on gravel; this applies to the lower parts of the parish. In the higher and northern parts again, the soil is wet and moorish ; and on the borders of Carmyllie, which bounds the parish on the north, there is a considerable extent of land still in a state of muir. Since the erection of some dam dikes, ahnost no salmon have been found in the Elliot. The only tish now caught in that stream ' A ARBIRLOT. 333 are common river trouts, and, though these are not numerous, they are large. Plantations. — There is very little wood in the parish. The grounds of Kelly, which were at one time so highly ornamented with beautiful trees, are now almost bare. There is one splendid tree still remaining beside the old castle ; it is a plain-leafed holly of great size, and believed to be of great age. II. — Civil History. lAind'-awner. — Lord Panmure is sole proprietor of the parish. Parochial Registers, — The oldest parochial register begins about the year 1640. • Antiquities. — The castle of Kelly, which stands upon a high rock that rises from the bed of the Elliot, had been at one-time a place of considerable strength, and is a very ancient building. It is now un- inhabited, though it cannot be said to be in a state of ruin. Before it came into the possession of the Panmure family,nt belonged to tbe Inrines of Drum. These Irvincs succeeded a family of the name of Ochterlony, and, according to tradition, it was by one of the Ochterlonies, a proprietor of Kelly, that the ancient abbey of Ar- broath was burned at some period prior to the Reformation. / Arrow heads made of flint, — or elf-arrows, as they are called, have been found, in considerable numbers, in the parish. Modtm Buildings. — The only mansion-house in the parish is the modern house of Kelly, which stands near to the old castle. On the Elliot, there are three meal mills, and one on a stream which is the boundary between Arbirlot and Panbride. ITiere is also a flax mill upon the Elliot, and close by the mouth of this stream, at a place called Wormy-hills, there is a work for bleach- ing yams. III. — Population. In the year 1755, the population was 865 1790, . . . 1055 1821, . . . 1062 1831, . 1026 Of these 1 026, there were 62 males engaged in weaving, and perhaps as many females. There is one blind person in the parish. Character of the People. — On this head, it is enough to observe, that there are few country parishes where the Sabbath is so well, and none, to the writer's knowledge, where it is better, observed. Poaching does not prevail. Many years ago, smuggling of foreign goods was carried on to a considerable extent, but now there is 334 FORFARSHIRE. no such thing. It is said thajtihe foreui^ n(ierch^t8 did npt receke ▼ery regular remittances, and that this, with the low price of whisky, and establishment of tjbe coast guard» stopped the trade of smug- gling on the east coast of Scotland. During the last three years there were r day-labourers, men, )s. 6d., and women, 8d.; for wrtiT sans per day, 23. The general duration of leases is nineteen years. About pne-r third of the leases are still for life, as they sji w^^e at one tim0» These liferents account for thp low average rent pf la^d in tbia parish. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised io the parish is Abou( 2000 boUs of wheat, L.dOOO 2658 bariey, . 3189 6769 oat9, .6144 920 peas and beans, 240 2) rye, . . 16 ^20Q potatoes 1224 925 acres turnips, • 1200 ^ hay, . . 1089 L. 15,102 V. — Parochial Economy. Market-town^ Means of Communication^ 8^c. — Arbroath, the suburbs of which reach almost to the east end of the parish, is the market-town. There are two small villages in the parish, one of them at the church, the other called Bonnyton, about two miles west of it In this parish there are four or five miles of turnpike road between Arbroath and Dundee, on which three or four eqaches run daily. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the parish church, which is a very handsome building, is convenient for the greater part of the parishioners. The church was rebuilt about three years ago, when nearly 200 additional sittings were provided. It affords ac- commodation for 639 people, but contains no free sittings. The ABBIRLOT. 335 old cWch wsi$ ^lEted »t tixe enpeose ot the £ftnnens^ and its seate beiog used for the new ooe, the fanners oonsider themseh^es pro- prietors of the seats, and entitled to charge rent for the same ; and rents somie of them do charge. The aisle, which contains most of ihe additioaal sijtlings inentioned above, was buiU «t the expense Ung, Auchterhouse, and Newtyle ; oti the west, by Nevay and Es** sie ; on the north, by Airlie and Kirriemuir ; and on the east^ by Forfar and Kinnettles. The climate is now dry and early, over all the lowef portioDs of the parish, — the extensive drainage of the swamps and mosses which has taken place, of late years, having had a great effect ia its im*- provement. Agues, which formerly prevailed, and other complaints attendant upon a damp moist atmosphere, have now disappeared ; and the harvest is within a few days of being as early as along the coast side. Hydrography. — The Loch of Forfar is within the parish, and once extended to nearly 200 imperial acres, but was reduced, sixty years ago, by drainage, to about one-half the extent It is supplied chiefly by powerful springs, contiguous, and partly within itself and forms the head of the water of Dean, which flows westerly, draining Strathmore into the river Isla, and thence into the Tay ; it is the principal water in this quarter of the district, and is joined by three tributaries within the parish, 6rst by Ballandarg burn, from Kirriemuir on the north ; second, by the Kerbet water, from Kin* nettles on the south-east ; and third, by the Olammiss bum, from Seidlaw on the south, which flows down its centre. But the De- noon bum, also within the parish for some distance, leaves it be- fore its junction on the west. The united waters form a deep slug- gish stream, from twenty to thirty feet in width, and from one to six in depth, — much of it being nearly stagnant. The mineral wells are merely some weak chalybeates, and none of any celebrity. The soil along the flat division of the parish, on the north side of the water of Dean, consists chiefly of light gra- GLAMMISS. 339 velly and sandy loams, with a few portions of clay and a consider- able quantityof moss^^in the hollows surrounding the sandy and gra- icelly swells^, — the greater part of this division being of indifferent quality, notwithstanding its fine locality in the centre of the strath.. Along tli« side of the Kerbet water, and after its junction with the Deani, westerly along the south side of the latter,, there is some breadlli of fiat and deep alluvial brown loam of fine quality ; and> within the middle division, forming the rising grounds southerly, Ihere is a considerable extent of good soil along its centre^i — being black and brown loams incumbent on an absorbent bottom, and part-' bjr of very, fine quality,, but also intermixed, both above and below tbb central stsipe^ with damp inferior sanda,. and a mixture of day,. pm>?incially called mortar. Along the bottoms of the glens of Ogilvie and Denoon, there is also a fair proportion of sharp gravelly loams of good quality,* but defective in climate ; the hillsure mostly all of a moorish cast, and covered: with heath, unless some grassy swamps. The best soils contiguous to the village rent, in parks, at the rate ofl L. 3 per imperial acre, and downvmrds to L. 1. The average rent of. (arms nms from L. 1 to L. 1^ 10s. for the arable land ; but the rent of many o£them varies according, to the fiars prices of grain*. The size of farms ranges between 50 and 600 acres of arable land, with numerous possessions, chiefly from six to ten, held by manu&cturers and labourers. The woodlands, which are extensive, have been all planted ;. Bone are natural ;. the greater proportion are of larch, ^ruce, and Scotch fir, of seventy years and under. The park timber around* the castle is a century older, and is chiefly ash and elm, with some^ oak, birch, and other varieties. Some of the ash trees measures li5 feet in girth, and contain 200 cubic feet of timber; Much of the largest of the larch and spruce have been of late cut. away, for the behoof of the hard- wood. Some of them measured) 60 and 70 cubic feet of timber,, and a fewof that size still remain. The chief natural production of the lower portion of the parish^. where the soil is inferior, and not under cultivation, is broom with) heath ; and in the mosses there is heath with a mixture of ooarse. aquatic grasses ; the wood found in them is birch, al- der, and hazel, with some oak, but no fir, or very little Along; the faogber grounds at the foot of the glens, there is at places a o^Bsidtfrable mixture of whins amongst the broom, which stretch upon the flanks of the Seidlaw, the higher summits of which are 340 FORFARSHIRE. covered with heath, and very Httle mixture of grass, unless in swamps and sides of bums. The wild raspberry is common, but the bramble is very rare, although common in some other quar- ters of Strathmore. Botany. — Although there is no particularly rare plant lunring its locality in the parish, yet the dens and raiiDes afford a very rich and varied display of flowers during the season, in particular of the avens, geranium, anemonies, &c &c ; and the mftrshes along the Dean, of the yellow water-lily and others. Among the more rare plants, may be noticed the Orobus sylvaticus. Mineralogy. — The minerals consist chiefly of different beds of the oldest sandstone formation which flanks the Grampians, — the lowest of which are of a gray colour, and underlie all the southern side of the parish, from a line crossing it a short distance north- wards of the village, and form the Seidlaw range. Their direction is from the north-east to the south-west, and they dip very uniformly to the north-west, usually at an angle be- tween ten and twenty degrees. Along the northern side, in the centre of the strath, they are over- laid with beds of a dark brownish- red colour, having a conform- able direction and dip ; they are the newest beds in Strathmore, but yet much older than the coal, and hence there is none of that use- ful mineral in the district ; neither is there any limestone, beyond occasional nodules, within the sandstone and veins of calcareous spar. The grey beds of sandstone are occasionally overlaid with trap or whinstone, forming the summits of the rising grounds, and at others much disrupted with dikes and veins of it, having great va- riety in their mineral character, but not productive of agates ; and such as are to be found are very coarse. There are, however, occa- sionally beautiful quartz crystals in these rocks, in the Seidlaw district. The mineral character of the sandstone beds varies from coarse conglomerate or puddingstone, through the intermediate stages down to calmstone, which consists of impalpable powder, and when exposed to the weather, decompose into clay. The pebbles and grains are not crystallized, but are water-worn and conglutinated together by a paste of calcareo-ferruginated mat- ter, and are of great variety, the most abundant being brownish-red quartz, and a species of hornstone. Porphyry, jasper, Lydianstone, GLAMMISS. 341 are also to be found, and occasionally serpentine ; but granite and other compound rocks of the immediate Grampians are very rare. The conglomerate beds, as also those of calm, are turned to no practical use; and when they occur in the quarries, are thrown aside as rubbish. The intermediate beds afford valuable building mate- rials of all descriptions, as well as pavement and slates, and are ex- tensively wrought for these purposes. There is one quarry close upon the village, long known for the excellent millstones it pro- duces, some of which are exported : the stone having also the quality of withstanding the effects of fire, is in much request in Dundee and elsewhere, for oven soles. The beds of slate, which are thin grey flags, are in the Seidlaw district, and have at some very remote period been very extensive- ly wrought, both in this and the adjoining parishes, much beyond what the wants of the immediate country, inclusive of Dundee, could have required ; it has therefore been suggested, that the old town of Edinburgh and others in the Lothians might have had^ at that period, a supply from this quarter. These beds, by being now wrought deeper, produce the pavement so well known by the name of Dundee or Arbroath pavement. The whinstone affords excellent materials for roads, and is ex- tensively wrought for that purpose. Some veins of lead ore were wrought about sixty years back, but were abandoned as not being worth the expense. The mines are close upon the east end of the village, where the remains of them are still to [be seen ; the veins cross the burn, and traverse the grey sand- stone, andare accompanied with sulphate of barytes. Traces of car- bonate of copper are also occasionally to be met with in the trap rockfl of Seidlaw, but to no great extent. Shell marl is found along the northern side of the parish, with- in some of the mosses, and particularly in great abundance in the loch of Forfar, which was partially drained for the purpose sixty years ago. The drained portions having been very much exhausted, it has for many years been dredged up from below the water, by an apparatus attached to a boat, and many thousands of pounds of this useful manure have been obtained out of this loch. Of late years, however, it has been much less in request, partly owing to the greater part of the lands having been repeatedly marled, and partly from the depressed state of agriculture. Among the grey sandstone beds, impressions of plants and scales 342 FORPAltdHIRE. of fishes have been long observed ; and* of late yeans^ two entm specimens of a non-descript fish, besides various imperfect portions^ have been obtained ; one out of the millstone quarry, and another out of the quarry a short distance to tAie eastwwnd of it^ at Thom^ ton. They have always been enveloped in the solid portion of the rock, and not in the fissures. Similar fishes have been found in other quarries in the district^ but are very rare, and nt>ne of them so per- fect specimens as the two found here. The first one was got at* Thornton upon the splitting up a block into two rybats in- ISBl,- when a section of a fish was exposed in each of them^ from the nose* to the tail, along the centre of the back bone, as if it had been cut up purposely by a lapidary's wheeL The block was taken out of the bottom of the quarry, thirty feet down in solid rock. The second was found, two years afterwards, in the millstone- quarry, and was entire, the stony envelope having been removed ofi* its back in the breaking of a block. They were each about six inches in length, having a very large' head in the shape of a shield, with the eyes close together near the' centre, on the crown of it. Specimens of this curious fossil fish, which proves to be a spe- cies of a new genus, named by Agassis, fVom the peculiar sliape of its head, CephalaspiSy were, we are informed, many years ago» sent to Professor Jameson, and by him shown to the Wemerian Society of Edinburgh, Mr Lyell, Junior, of Kinordy, has also in- terested himself very much in bringing together specimens of the CephalaspiSy and M. Agassiz, we understand, intends figuring the Forfarshire animal flrom drawings of Professor Jameson's specimens, under the name Cephalaspis Lyelli^ in compliment to Mr Lyell, for'- the eminent services he has rendered to geological science. The im- pressions of plants are most numerous in the pavement beds, hav- ing the appearance of reeds and a clustered fruit, the points being star-shaped, something similar to that of the equisetacea when pressed flat Similar impressions, we understand, are not unfre- quently met with in the same formation in other parts of Scotland, and will be figured in Brongniart's great work on Fossil Plants, at present in the course of publication. There is also an impression frequently to be met with on the pavement, very like to that of an unshod colt's foot, and is proba- bly the impression of something organic Naturalists, however, GLAMMISS. 343 have been unable to come to any conclusion about it, although it is- also common in some parts of England. The whole of. these oi^nic remains are confined to the oldest or the grey beds of sandstone. No traces as yet have been found in the red beds, which are newer. Neither is there any in the clays or gravels which immediately overly the rocks, and underly the marl and moss ; but in both the latter, very large antlers of the red- deer are sometimes found, also tusks of the wild boar, and very large skulls and horn flints of the ox, and numerous shells of the fresh water testacea, — among which is ^e pearl mussel, also common in the Dean Water. All the sandstones and pebbles of the days and gravels are referable to the rocks of the district, or to the contiguous range of the Grampians. None have been transported furtfalBr, since the deposition of the conglomerate beds. But va- rious of the pebbles of the conglomerate beds, or rocks, are not to be found in any other locality, and do not belong either to the district or to the Grampian range. Zoology. — The wild animals found in the parish are the roe-deer, hares, and rabbits. The latter, at one period, were plentiful, and, after having been extirpated out of the district for many years, are now beginning again to appear. Foxes are also numerous. The badger occurs occasionally ; and otters are common at the Dean Water. Some pine-martins have also been killed, but they are rare ; polecats and weasels are common ; squirrels also are plentiful, though rare ten years ago. Among the feathered tribe, the cross-bill may be noticed as hav- ing appeared here since the introduction of the larch woods, upon the seeds of which they live. Black-cock are also becoming com- mon in Seidlaw, of late years. Grouse are not common ; partridge occurs in abundance, and pheasants occasionally. Jays are still very numerous ; and the drainage of swamps has in a great degree banished the wild goose, which seventy years ago was very com- mon along the Dean in winter. Pike of very large size and pendi are found in the loch of Forfar, and in the Dean ; and the trout of the Dean have been long famed for their fine quality; but it is remarkable that salmon do not enter it, although they cross the mouth of it, in passing up the Isla river. It may here be mentioned, however, that, fifty or sixty years ago, a solitary salmon was killed in the Dean. II. — Civil History. AntiqinHe8.^-'l!\ie Castle of Glammiss, a venerable, and majes- VORFAR . z 342 ^^4 .^ . "''** «»««■ '" ^^^ ^^ '^* angles, for a spiral staircase from ^jjitio^ ^ g„d of numerous small turrets on its top, with coni- f^tr<"^ ^ The wings were added, at the same time, by Patrick ^1 i^'^cj^thmore, who repaired and modernized the structure, ^ %0 direction of Inigo Jones. One of the wings has been * ted within the last forty years, and other additions made, **" J in harmony with Earl Patrick's repairs. * fhore is also a secret room in it, only known to two or at most three individuals, at the same time, who are bound not to reveal it, unless to their successors in the secret. It has been frequently the object of search with the inquisitive, but the search has been in vain. There are no records of the castle prior to the tenth cen- tury, when it is first noticed in connection with the death of Mal- colm II. in 1034. Tradition sourers, exceeding the number of those who come into it annually from other parishes. CABMLYIE. 361 good morals or to virtuous independence of spirit Christmas and New- Year's days, old style, are still kept as holidays by the gene- rality of the people, and convivial meetings are then held among friends and neighbours. The young men sometimes amuse them - selves with a wad or prize-shooting, on one or other of these days. Sometimes raffles take place of small ailicles. A few fires are still lighted on the Hallawe^en by the young people ; and some of the ancient spells are still practised at that time, not from any belief in their potency, but merely for the sake of amusement. The farm festival of harvest-home, or maiden play, as it is called, is still ob- served by some of the farmers at the close of their hai*vest labours. While the people of the more fertile and wealthy districts in the neighbourhood, were advancing in the career of improvement every way, the inhabitants of Curmylie, in their habits and dresses, re- mained, it should seem, like their soil, very much in the primitive state, and were, in consequence, superciliously denominated by their more polished neighbours, ^^ the bodies of Carmylie." Now, how- ever, all such peculiarities have disappeared, and all have partaken of the general improvement of the country. 1 he hodden dresses of home manu&cture are now exchanged for English cloths and cot- ton manufactures. A few blue bonnets of goodly extent among the old men, and a few tartan and scarlet plaids among the old women, are the only relics now to be seen of the holiday dresses of the last generation. A considerable change has taken place in the ordinary food, as well as in the clothing of all classes of the community. The use of tea and of wheaten bread is now common. About sixty years ago, there were, it is said, only two tea-kettles in the parish : now there is not, perhaps, a single house in it without one. Within the memory of some of the present generation, swine were kept only at mills, and an antipathy to swine's flesh was common : now there is scarcely a family without their pigs and bacon. Potatoes were then but little cultivated, now they form a considerable part of the maintenance of the labouring classes. Their usual food for break- fast is oatmeal porridge and milk ; sometimes tea, with oat-cakes and butter. Dinner frequently consists of pork and potatoes, sometimes fish, or preparations of milk ; and among the poorer clas- ses, sometimes potatoes chiefly. Tea in the afternoon is common, and potatoes for supper; but little small beer is used — the common beverage is water. The practice of tea drinking may refresh the wearied labourer at the close of the day ; but setting aside the ex- 3OT FORFARSHIRE. pense, it certainly does not tend to strengthen liini for his labours, like the home-brewed beer, formerly in use. The farm-servants who receive an allowance of meal and milk, and who are lodged in apartments separate from the fenn-house, called bothies^ cook their own victuals, which usually consist of milk-brose for breakfast, dinner, and supper. This bothie system^ so common at one time in the lowlands of this county, is but lit- tle prevalent in this parish ; and happily for the morals and man- ners of a numerous and important class of the conununity, seems rather getting into disuse. The social and substantial dish, and especial favourite of our forefathers ^^ the kail-brose of auld Scotland" is now in a' great measure unknown among the younger generation^ and very proba- bly the brose-bicker disappeared with the gudeman from the tabl^ head, when, in the progress of refinement, he ceased to preside at the family board, around which the whole household used to as- semble at meals, and where his presence and conversation produ- ced the most beneficial effects on the manners and morals of the domestics. The greater number of the agricultural population, being under an indulgent and liberal landlord, and various of them occupying under old leases, they enjoy in consequence a reasonable share of the comforts and advantages of society, and generally speaking, are con- tented with their situation and circumstances ; and if there be any of the parishioners less so, they are to be found chiefly amongst the ma- nufacturing classes, who are exposed to the fluctuations peculiar to their line of employment ; and yet these are far less felt in this quarter than in many other places, for several of the weavers rent small possessions of land ; others, when times are unfavourable to them, engage in farm labours ; and from there being always a con- siderable demand for labour at the quarries, those who are able and willing to work, seldom want employment Though the division of labour commonly observed among the agricultural part of the population, the unvarying task of the wea- vers, and the hard labour of the quarriers, be but little fiivourable to the acquisition of knowledge^ and though our distance from the colleges, and our vicinity to manufacturing towns, give but little taste for classical learning, yet the parishioners have all received an education suitable to their condition in life, and are on the whole as intelligent as their neighbours, and as can be reasonably ex- pected in their circumstances ; and considering their exemplary at^ CARMYLIE. 363 tendance on the public ordinances of religion, and their peaceable, industrious, and orderly conduct in private life, they may be justly characterized in general, as a moral and religious people ; and al- though it may not be affirmed that they are more so than their forefathers, yet there can be no doubt that they are less supersti- tious. Little credence is now given to stories of fisdries, ghosts, witches, and water-kelpies. Such legends have almost entirely dis- appeared.* IV. — Industry. Agriadiure, — According to the statement of the occupiers of the lands, there are in the parish, either cultivated or occasionally in tillage, 4159 acres Scots, exclusive of gardens. There are 734 acres Scots which remain constantly waste or in pasture, exclusive of a moss supposed to contain 200 acres, and of the ground occu- jMed by farm-steadings. About 200 acres might be added to the cultivated land of the parish, though not much more than the half of that number could be improved to any considerable advantage. Besides the moss alluded to, there are belonging to the principal heritor tracks of moor not annexed to any farm : their extent may be stated at not less than 100 acres ; and being connected with ex- tensive moors in neighbouring parishes, they are sometimes used for wintering sheep from the Grampians. Tliere are 335 acres of planted wood, consisting chiefly of larch, Scots, and spruce firs, with a proportion of the common kinds of hard-wood. Bent of Land. — The average rent of arable land in the parish is about 15s. l^d. per acre.-f- Nearly 1700 arable acres are occupied * In 1743, a reputed wizard was consulted by people in this parish as to the reco- very of stolen goods ; and so prevalent were such applications at that time in this 'neighbourhood, that the clergy thought it necessary to draw out an address on the subiect, which was i^pointed to be read in all the churches of the bounds. — Session ana Presbytery records. ^ In a copy of the chart ulary of (he abbey of Aberbrothock, which is in the li- tyrary at Panmure, it is stated, that, in 1485, a lease of the teinds of lands of the ba- rony of Carmylie, was granted to Robert Strachan and Janet his spouse, for the yearly payment of twenty merks Scots ; and that in 1 499, the lease was renewed to David Strachan for twenty-three merks Scots. Besides the money rent, some ser- vices were required from the tenant, as appears from the following extract from his lease : ** Volumus autem quod dictiis Robertus ubique locorum infra regnum Sco- ti« in nostra curia et in curiis successorum nostrorum equitet honeste ut decet in tempore quando ad hoc premonitus fuerit per nos aut successores nostros omnibus fraude et dolo et delatione post positis." ** Assedatio Gorbarum Decimalium Do- minii de Carmylie.** From the copy of the abbey rental formerly mentioned, it appears that, in the six- teenth century, the annual rent of the several lands now constituting the parish, amounted to 00 boUs of bear or barley, 160^ bolls of oatmeal, 80 bolls of horse com, and the teinds oAhe lands of Carmylie, amounting to L. 26, Ids. 4d. ; Guynd pro fir- mis, L. 4, 6s. 8J. ; pro rynmart, 6s. ; total, 31, ds. 8d. besides some poultry andcar- 'riages. 364 FORFARSHIRE. under long leases, let upwards of fifty years aga* A fulUgrown ox or cow may be grazed for the summer at L. 1, lOe., and may bt kept for the winter at L. 2, 10& or at L* 4 for the year. Wages. — The wages of farm-servants are from Lb 10 to L. 15 a-year ; of best servants from L. 14 to li. 10 a year, exclusive (if they lodge in bothies) of 6^ bolls of oat-meal, a Scots pint of un- skimmed milk, (sometimes a pint and a-half per day from the couh mencement of the seed-time till the end of harvest) 3 bolls of po- tatoed, (16 stones Dutch per boll,) and a certain allowance of fbeL But unmarried farm-servants frequently, and female servants copi- monly, are boarded and lodged in their master's house, and receive only money wages. Married men are generally preferred, who oo- cupy, at a certain rent, a house and kail-yard, and sometimes a few acres of land, the tillage of which is undertaken by their masters^ the house rent and expense of labour being reckoned as part of their wages. Female servants receive from L. 5 to L. 6 a year — a few L. 7, who are bound to assist at the lighter kinds of fiurm- work, such as turnips-hoeing, hay-making, &c» *(- There is a rent-roll at Panmure of the ** Lairdship of Canuylie,** and of other lands constituting neaily two-thirds of the paiish, for the year 1675 ;— a curious do- eumcnt, as shewing the varietT of articles then exacted in name of rent* as well as their prices at the time. Besides L. 2(i98, lOs. 8d. including teind and vicaragSi there were paid 2 bolls bear, stated as sold for L. 7 Scots per boll ; 134 ^^ of mMl at L. 4. 3s. 4d. per boll ; 3 bolls malt at L. 6 per boll ; 4 dosen capous at li. 4, lUs. per dozen ; 4 dozen hens at L. i), 10s. per dozen ; 28 dozen poultry at L. 2, lOs. per dozen; 7^ dozen ells of linen at L. 4 per dosen; U meat sheep at Li. 2, 13s. 4d. each ; 2 stones butter at L. ds. Cs. 8d. per stone ; 1 sow L.4; grease at JL.4per stone ; 17 gcrse at L. 8 per dozen ; 1 dozen chickens at L. 1, 4s. per dozen ; 14 spindles yarn at 16s. per spindle ; and 24 turses of straw. The price of wheat is thoo stated at L. 7 per boll. A cottage aad kail-yard were then rented at 1 dozen chick- ens a year, and some cottiiees puid only \i chickens a yeur. A small farm, which was let a lew years ago at L. 2(3 a year, was then rented at a sum now cqud to L. 4» *J%. 54(1* Sterling yearly. Valued rent of the whole parish, as per origind rent roll of 1683, L. 2281, Ids. 4d. Scots. In 1715, when the first augmentation of stipend was granted to the minister of Carmylie, the proven rental of all the lands of the pari&h, is stated in the account given into the Court at L. 'J62(), 19s. 4d. Scota. In 1757, rental of about threc-fuurlhs of the parish, (including L. 200 Scots as yearly rent of the Mains of Carmylie quarries) and value of kain fowls, amounted for that year to L. 3347, Os. 4d. Scots, the yearly reutal of which is at present not under L. IGOO Sterling, exclusive of quarries. In the last Statistical Account of the parish, the yeaily rental of it is stated at L. 1000 Sterling, and that it had risen one-third during the twenty years preceding. In l])Od, when the present 8ti])end was fixed by the Court, the annual rental of the parish is stated at L» 2074 Sterling. It is now upwoids of L. SOOO more than four- teen times its amount in 1715, * Since 1 }131 , the Icises of upwards of 500 of these acres have expired, and therent obtained under the new leases adds about Is, 6d, ])er acre to the average rent of ara- ble land in the parish. •f About eighty years ago, it was cu<«tomary for female- servants here, to receive, as part of their wages, a certain quantity of coarse grey woollen cloth, called Hodden, for CARMYLIE. 366 The usual hire of a plough of two horses and ploughman is Is. per hour employed, or 5s. per yoking of five hours. The mode of reaping * now commonly adopted in the parish is called ihreav^ ing. The farmer's cottars are bound to labour on these occasions : other hands are obtained in the parish, and sometimes from a dis- tance. . They receive dd. per threave of 24 sheaves, of a certain girth, for oats and barley, and djd. per threave for wheat of 28 sheaves, and sometimes an allowance in addition of milk and po* tatoes. An additional halfpenny per threave is allowed for bind- ing and stooking; but these operations are commonly performed by separate labourers, at 2s. per day with victuals, or 2s. 6d. without victuals. As thrashing-mills are not numerous in the pcuish, a good deal of our grain is thrashed by labourers, called &am-me;i, engaged for the season, who receive the twenty-fifth boll or part of whatever kind of grain is threshed, and two meals a day, when employed; or the twenty-first boll or part without victuals. We have only two corn-mills in the parish ; the seventeenth peck is paid for drying, grinding, and sifting. Common labourers and quarriers receive from Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. per day in summer, and from Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. per day in winter, without victuals. Labourers engaged for the year on days wages, receive about 9s. per week, without victuals ; — female labourers at tumip-hoeing, &c. receive 9d. per day without victuals. A wright receives 2s. a day besides victuals, f A mason from 2s. 4d. to 28. 6d. without victuals; a tailor Is. 2d. a day besides victuals; a wea- ver makes at present about Is. 6d. a day ; a journeyman smith's wages are 14s. a week without victuals, or from L#. 12 to L. 14 a year, besides victuals. Ditches and drains are generally done at a certain rate per rood of thirty-six running ells, according to their dimensions. Stone- dikers receive from lOs. to 1 Is. per rood of thirty-siK square ells* Wood And vrigbt work of a cart for 2 horses, L. 7« 7s. Do. including iron- work, - - 14 Wood and wright work of a common plough, L.l| Is. Do^ including iron- work, - - - 3 Wood and wright work of a pair of common harrows 15s. Do including iron- work, - - . 1 10 clothing, and of a coarse linen called Ham, for shifbi, — and from a document of that date, which I have lately seen, it appears that a ploughman's wages in this quar« ter were then L. 30 Scots a year; a carter's, L. 34 ; and a servant-maid's, L. 16, ex- clusive of board and lodging. * Sioec IQ3I, the oommon sesrthe has heen used in some instances fot tbiipiur- se. f A Wright's wages fifty years ago Were 8d. per day, besides victuals. 366 FORFARSHIRE. Wood and wright work of common roller, L. 3, Do, ineluding iron- work, L 7 Drill barrow for sowing turnips . 4 15 Barn fanners, - - 4 10 Thrashing mill of 6 horse power, - 150 Cart harness, bridles IDs. 6d. ; collar L. 1, 5s. ; saddle and breechin, L. 2 ; in all from L. 3 to L 5, Best harness for a pair of horses, - 10 4 shoes for a horse, iron- work and shoeing, - 3 Shoeing 1 horse for a year, iron and work, 10 A pair of stout shoes for a ploughman, - 110 A pair of lacing shoes for a do, - 15 PHces of wood.—- Yellow American Pine per cubical foot, 12 0. Norway pine per do, - •024 Hard-wood per do, from 2i. 6d. to - 3 Price of Slates per 1200, . 4 10 Price of pavement per superficial foot, from Id. to 3 Pl-ice of thick pavement rock suitable for steps, columns, &c per do from 6d.to - - - 2 Price of lime shells per boll of two imperial barrels, . Oj 2 6 Prices of iron.— Of British iron, per imperial stone Is. 2d. ; of best do per do •> - - 14 Of foreign iron per do. • 2 8 Price of butter per imperial lb. from 8d. to . 10 cheese per stone, from 7s* to - 8 of beef per imperial lb. from 6d. to - 6 or 6s. 6d. per imperial stone, of mutton per do do, - 6 of pork per Dutch stone, from 5s. to - 6 of veal per imperial lb., from 4d. to - 5 of hens from Is. 6d. to Is. 8d. a piece, - 18 of chickens, from 6d. to Od. each • 9 of eggs per dozen from 6d. to - - ^ 9 Live-Stock, — Before the green crop system of husbandry was in- troduced here, almost every farmer had a flock of sheep; but this prac- tice has been discontinued for many years, and though the attention of the farmer is now much directed to the raising of crops, it is nearly as much so to the rearing and grazing of cattle — as, in ordinary years, he depends for his profits as much upon the latter as upon the former. Every farmer rears a certain number annually, to keep up his permanent stock, and buys in whatever flying stock he may require to consume his pasture and turnips. Grass feeding of cattle is but little practised : numbers are sold off annually to be fed on richer pastures. The native breed of the county, so well known throughout the country, is most common. Considerable atten- tion has been paid, of late years, to improving the breed of the live- stock of the district, by the Eastern Forfeirshire Agricultural As- sociation. Husbandry. — Improvements in agriculture did not commence here so early as in the adjoining districts ; but since the beginning of the present century, these have made rapid progress, and the mode of agriculture now generally followed in the parish is not in- CARMYLIE. 367 ferior to tbat of the most improved districts, in consequence of which, and of the introduction of the earlier kinds of grain, our harvest is considered as, in orduiary years, about eight or ten days earlier than formerly. In the earlier stages of improvement, the application of marl was much practised ; but lime is now generally applied, which is procured from the Frith of Forth, and partly from Sunderland. Bone dust has been lately introduced in small quantities, for raising turnips, and with good effect. Owing to the nature of the sub- soil, the throwing down of the old ridges has not, in all cases, been an improvement More draining is required, and much of the old soil is buried out of reach of the plough, and some fields, in con- sequence, have scarcely recovered their former fertility. Great at- tention is paid, to lay the ridges so as not to retain the surface water, and to cut furrows in the hollows to carry it off. A regu- lar rotation of cropping is observed, so far as soil and season will permit. The usual rotation is as follows : 1. oats from ley ; 2. turnips and potatoes, and sometimes part fallow, with lime or dung or compost applied ; 3. barley or oats, with grass seeds, and wheat on the fallow where the soil answers, with grass seeds harrowed or rolled in in the spring ; 4. grass, part made into hay, and part in pas- ture ; 5. pasture. Oats form the most prevailing crop in the pa- rish. Formerly a species called shiocksj or black-oats, was much sown, and more lately what is called common oats; but now the po« tato oat has supplanted every kind. About 1^ boll is sown into the acre, and, in ordinary years, the boll yields about 17 pecks of meal. Considerable quantities of bear, here called Chester^ and of the coarser kinds of barley called branded and white barley, were for- merly sown ; and from their ripening earlier, and thriving on the poorer soils, they seem better suited to the parish than the English barley, now generally sown, which never attains the weight of the barley raised in the more fertile districts, seldom exceeding 52 lb. imperial per bushel. About a boll is sown into the acre. Though the soil in several quarters appears to be well adapted for the culture of wheat, yet there is not much sown in the parish, as it seldom comes to great perfection. The average annual produce of the grain sown in the parish, is about 5\ bolls per acre ; but the average quality is so inferior, that, in ordinary years, the price obtained for a boll of Carmylie wheat falls under the fiar price, about ds. ; for a boll of barley about 368 FORFARSHIRE. 2s. 6d. ; for a boll of oats Is. 6d. ; — a reduction which the new and certainly equitable plan lately introduced into our corn market, of buying by weight instead of measure, must tend still further to in- crease. A considerable extent of potatoes is planted, as they form a large proportion of the food of the labouring classes : pota- toes are also given to cows and horses, and a part is consumed by the pigs and the poultry. The culture of potatoes is well understood, and great pains are taken in pulverizing the clods, and in loosen- ing the soil around the plants when springing, with a three prongs ed instrument, called a clatt. The kinds commonly planted are the white and red kidney, a large round red kind, and the small American for the table. The quality is generally excellent Turnips are raised in considerable quantity. The white top, the red -top, and the globe, are the most common kinds. The Aberdeenshire yellow is also in general use, and is nmch esteemed. As the second crop of clover is now rarely so good as it was after the first application of lime, or marl, a proportion of tares or vetches is sown to supply its place, in the autumn. The fanners usually supply themselves with rye-grass seeds* From 1 to 2 bushels of it, with from 4 to 6 pounds red, and from 2 to 4 pounds white clover, are sown into the acre. Flax was formerly raised here in great quantities, as the soil in many places is thought to be well adapted to it ; but as this article can be procured by im- portation, at a cheaper rate, the sowing of it is now quite given up. The rents of the farms occupied under the old leases are paid partly in grain, and partly in money ; but the usual duration of the leases now granted is nineteen years, for a money rent only. And the rents under the modern leases are very moderate, and favour- able to improvement; yet they who occupy under the old leases, have in general carried their improvements farther than they either would or could have done, had they been less favourably situated. Farm Buildings^ — From the abundance of stones and slates in the parish, the farm buildings are, in most instances, substantially built and covered with slates; and not less than 1400 acres are inclosed and subdivided with stone fences, besides various other inclosures with whin hedge and ditch. Previous to 1770, various farms in the parish were, from the nature of the soil, " thought to be better adapted for pasture than for grain, and were occupied by farmers in the neighbourmg par rishes, as grazing farms (called out-rooms) for their cattle in the summer ; but ever since that time, the proprietors have obliged the cahmylie. 369 tsnuits to rettde in them." An unproved system of husbandry seems to have conunenced about that time, so that the ^* grain produced was increased fourfold in the course of twenty-six years thereafter." During the last thirty yeai-s, great additions have been made to the cultivated land of the parish, by cultivating wastes, drain- ing mosses, marshes, &c. ; the enclosures mentioned have been made, and almost all the wood has been planted. From the plan alluded to, of Lord Panmure's part of the pa- rish, it appears that, from 800 to 900 acres have been added since 1770 to thie cultivated land, upon that part ; and there is every reason to believe that, on the other parts of the parish, the acces- fion has been proportionably great. And while the parish in ge- neral, from the nature of its subsoil, requires much draining, it for- tunately abounds in the most suitable materials for this purpose ; an advantage which the tenantry have not failed to improve ; by which means, not only is its produce considerably increased, but its climate also is materially improved. The productiveness of its soil might indeed be still further increased, were it in the vicinity of a town where a supply of street manure could be procured ; but the price of that article in Arbroath (the nearest town) is so high, and the distance so considerable, that though this plan has been attempted, it is not likely to be followed out to any extent, or that it would be attended with any advantage sufficiently remunerat- ing- But improved as the parish is, and might still further be, in its soil, climate and productiveness, it must still continue, as is the case at present, inferior in these respects to most of the adjacent districts, owing to certain obstacles arising, not from any want of encouragement on the part of the landlord, nor of capital or skill on the part of the tenant, but from its high and exposed situation, and from its cold and retentive subsoil. Hence our spring opera- tions are retarded — the young grass is apt to be thrown out — vege- tation is late in commencing, never making much progress till to- wards the end of June : our harvest in general is about a fortnight later and therefore more precarious, and the quality of our grain, particularly of our wheat and barley, thereby considerably dete- riorated. Quarries, — Various quarries of excellent materials for common purposes, are worked in the parish ; but, so far as has yet been dis-* covered, the strata affording pavement and slates do not extend 370 FORFARSHIRE. beyond the range already mentioned, with the exception of some towards the north-western extremity of the parish. Though these have been quarried, for slates, for many years, yet it is only with- in the last thirty years that they have been worked for pavement to any extent * About sixty labourers are employed in them for the season. They are worked in the common way : as the seams which lay nearest the sur&ce consisted chiefly of slates, they have been mostly worked out The best pavement and slate strata can be split into plates of from 1 inch to 14 inches in thickness, for pave- ment, and of any portable dimensions, and of 1 inch to 1;^ inch in thickness for slates. The pavement is squared in the quarry. The slates are used in the neighbouring country. Upwards of thirty carts are employed in carrying the pavement to Arbroath, (at the rate of from 4s. to 6s. per 100 superficial feet,) where it is ship* ped for Leith, London, Glasgow, Aberdeen, and various other places ; that which is so well known by the name oi Arbroath pave^ ment being chiefly from this parish. The sales have increased considerably since the coast duty was taken oSl Pavement rock of a fine grain and of a bluish-colour, with a shade inclining to green, is found of sufficient thickness for stair steps of any size. It is also suitable for columns, balusters, and other archi- tectural ornaments. A stratum of light-coloured pavement is oc- casionally found, which is finely variegated with dark cloudy spots and veins, which, when polished and varnished, has a beautiful appearance, resembling dark-coloured marble, and answers well for chimney jambs, lobby tables, &c. The pumps required for drawing off the water from the quarries, are driven by windmills^ with moveable wooden frames."f- Produce, — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as stated by the occupiers of the several farms, exclu- * In the rental alluded to of I67^f no mention is made of the quarries. In 1739 Mr Garden of Troup, who then held the lands of the barony of Car- mylie in lease from the York Building Company, granted a sublease of the slate quar- ries on that barony (excepting those on the mains of Carmylie,) for 300 merks yearly. ^-Old Documents, At an after period, the tenants in their vicinity were allowed to quarry as they pleased, on their respective farms, upon their paying to the landlord a certain pro- portion of the value of the slates and pavement quarried. -f* Great difficulty has been experienced, for some time past, in getting rid of the water, which has increased in the principal quarry beyond the power of the common pump, owing to the increasing depth of the quarries from the dip of the strata. To remeidy this, a drain was commenced some years ago, at the distance of half a mile from that quarry, and has been pushed on at a great depth to within 400 yards of it, and a tunnel now in progress, 3^ feet in height, by about 3 feet in width, has been blasted for 180 yards of that disUnce, through a hard sandstone. It is a moat labori- ous and expensive operation, but will, when completed, effectually drain the quarries. CARMYLIE. 371 sive of produce of gardens and kail-yards, which cannot well be ascertained, the produce of the farms at present under grass being estimated as if they were under a regular rotation of cropping : Whest 782 boUs (county measure) at the average of the county fiars for the laat 10 years, and with the deduction per boll already mentioned, and stated in round numbers, . L. 997 Barley 1020 boUs at do. da do. 1788 Oata, 6348 bolls at do. do. do. 5683 Pease, 100 bolls at do. . . 186 Tiimips, 299 acres at various rates, per acre, as stated by the tenants, areraging from L. 4 to L. 5, • 1374 Potatoes, 126 acres at do. do. averaging from L. 7 to I^. 8, . 985 Pasture sown, 1532 acres at do. do. ; pasture natural and muir 1 19 acres at do. do. , 1941 Hay, 17370 stones at 8d. per stone, . . 579 L. 13483 Amount of sales from the quarries. Annual average amount of sales from the quarries belonging to Lord Pteimure for the years 1827-26-29, according to the statement of the derk, vis. Of pavements, . . . L. 2679 Ofslates, .... 172 Anmial average amount of sales from the quarries belonging to Alexander Smart, Esq. of Conansythe, for the last 8 years, according to the statement of the proprietor, . 400 3151 L. 16,634 There is another slate and pavement quarry upon the property of John Ouchterlony, Esq. of Guynd, which has not b«en worked for many years. Manufactures. — There are no spinning-mills in the parish. A considerable number of the population are employed in the weav- ing of coarse linens^ on account of merchants and mill-spinners in Arbroath and Dundee, from whom the yarns are obtained by car- riers weekly. Many families are supported, chiefly by this branch of manufacture. As the pavement quarries are not worked in win- ter, a few slates only being there raised when the weather permits, several of the quarriers having been bred to the loom, resume that employment, during that season. Since the year 1820 the spinning of flax by machinery has ra- pidly increased, in the neighbouring towns, and many of the young women have, in consequence, betaken themselves to weaving. This new employment for young women cannot be so conducive to health, as the ordinary labours of female servants ; and, in the event of their becoming wives, forms no good training for their management of household affairs. From^the increased number of hands employed in weaving, one very beneficial effect results, in the employment thus afforded to various old women in filling pirns, — the only work now left for them, since the improvements in machi* nery have rendered the gains at hard spinning, so very trifling. 372 FORFARSHIRE. V. — Parochial Ecohoiit. Means of Communication. — The nearest markelrtown is Ar- broath, which is about seven miles distant from the centre of the parish. The nearest post^ffice is at Muirdrum, a small village in the parish of Panbride, about four miles distant ; but our conunu- nication is chiefly with Arbroath. There is no tiim|ikg raai ni the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, though not in the cen- tre of the parish, is yet sufliciently convenient for the greater part of the population.* It is about 3} miles distant from the north- east extremity of the parish, and about 3 miles from the south-west extremity ; about 3^ miles from the western, and from the south- eastern extremities about 1^ mile; but the greater number of the population are only from 1 to 2 miles distant from the churdu It was built, probably soon after the erection of the parish ; but no date is to be seen. It is a substantial building of ashler work,^ is in good repair and decently fitted up. It aflbrds accoinmodaticHi for 500 sitters, but requires to be enlarged, as, from the increased po- pulation, there has been a considerable deficiency of church-room for some time past. The manse was built in 1820, and is substan- tial and commodious. The glebe, including the garden and site of manse and offices, and a mortification of about 7 acres, contains about 15 acres Scots.^ It is difficult to state the value of it very correctly, but I should think it not less than L. 30 annually. The stipend is one of the lowest class, and receives an addition of L. 31, 9s. 9d. Sterling, from the Exchequer, to make it up to L. 150 per annum, exclusive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements.} * Tlie amount of ihe population in these })arts of the parish, which are more than two mileH diitUint from the parish church, is under 240. •f According to tradition, its erection is connected with an event of rare occurrence in modern tinien : the principal heiitor at that time became bankrupt, it is said, in coiisequenci' of his great exertions to have his parish church built in a superior man- ner. , X Previous to 1716, there wos no legal glebe at Carmvlie; but Uie |Mece of ground alluded to, which hwl been mortified, at an early period, by one of thie lairds of Car- mylie, for the encouragement of the mini&ter, was ])osse«ised by the iucumbeuts from time to time; but ui)on application to the presbytery by the incumbent in 1716» • glel)e and grass glebe were designed to the minister in the usual manner* from the adjoining lands, which have been possessed by his successors in office to the present time. $ About two- thirds of the stipend consist of money payments, viz. from Carmylie I^. 76, la. t2d. ; from lands in )>arish of Monikie, L. 2, 10s. ; from Exchequer L. 211 9s. tkl. Total, L 109, Os. lid. The other tliird consists of grain payments, payable at the fiar prices of the county, TIC. B. p* p. ' L. From Carmylie, bear, . 7 10^ Bear fVom various lands in the parish of Invsrkeiior 10 1 i. r. p. l. 17 2 Of CARMYLIE. 373 All the families of the parish, with the exception of two, attend the Established Church ; and nearly all, the parish church. There are 5 members of the United Associate Synod ; 3 independents ; 1 Baptist, and 1 Episcopalian. Divine service is well attended, and tiie regularity of the parishioners in this vefspect is very ex- emplary. The annual average number of comnranicants is 500, in- cluding about 35 from neighbouring parishes, who are remote firom their parish churches. Owing to the depressed state of the poor's funds for many years, and the consequent difficulty ofmeeting the demands for parochial relief) without having recourse to compulsory assessments, there have been but few collections in the church for extra-parochial purposes, either veiigious or charitable ; and the annual average of which for thm ten years preceding 1831, may be stated at L. 2.* EdycaAm. — Besides the parochial school, there is a private schody built by subscription, situated in the south-west part of the parish. *f- The branches of education generally taught in the pa- rish school are, English, reading, and grammar, writing, arithme- tic, and Latin ; and in the private school, reading, writing, and arithmetic The yearly salary of the parochial teacher is the maxi- mum, L. 34,4s., and the annual average amount of school fees, (in- cluding payment for some articles of stationery) is from L. 18to L. J 9. The teacher of the private school has his school-room rent free, but has no salary. The number of scholars, and consequently the amount of fees, vary with the teacher for the time. The present teacher states the annual average of his school fees for the lat^t two years, at about L. 20. The parochial teacher has the legal accom- modations. I am not aware of any young persons between six and fifteen years of age, who have not received or are not now receiving instruc- tions in reading; — nor of any persons in the parish upwards of fifteen years of age who cannot read. There may be many of the latter Meal from Cormylie, Do. firom InTerkeUor, Wheat from f rrrerkeilor. Annual average value of teind of Brjanton, Inverkeilor, payable to the minister of Cannylie, after the parish minister receives his proportion, L. 1, Ids. * In 1834, L. 14 were cither collected in the church or contributed in the parish, towards the erection of a Chapel of Ease in a neighbouriiig parish. *t* Since 1C31, another private school, in a populous part of the parish, which had been built by subscription some years ago, and latterly discontinued, has been re- opened. The branches taught, and the school fees, are the same as in the other pri- vate school. 23 1 t>i 2 2 2 3^ B. F. P. L. 25 3 3 1^ • 8 2 374 FORFARSHIRE. class who cannot write ; but there is reason to believe that nearly all the young people who have attended school of late years have received instructions in writing. The number of scholars present at the annual examination of the parish school for the three years preceding IQSly averaged 61 ; the number on the roll, 64. The greatest number attending school in 1831 amounted to 124, of whom 60 attended the parish school ; 40 the private school ; and the remainder, a private school adjoin- ing a remote part of the parish. The distance of that part, con- taining a population of about 100, is such as to prevent the at- tendance of the children at the parish school, more especially as the young are now sent to school at an earlier age than was usual in former days. There was a private school in that quarter, which has been discontinued of late, and no additional school seems to be required for their accommodation, as a parish school, and the private school alluded to, are in their neighbourhood. Though the number now attending school * be not so great as could be wished, it is yet greater in proportion to the population than the number stated as attending in my predecessor's time, when the population was 700, — a fact which seems to imply an increase of intelligence on the part of the parents, in appreciating more highly the benefits of education ; and, so far as I have had an opportunity of judging, I am inclined to think, that an increase of intelligence has become visible, particularly amongst the young, within the last twelve or fifteen years. Literature. — A parochial library was instituted here in 1828, and is under the management of the kirk-session. The readers pay Is. per annum, for the purpose of keeping the books in repair, and of purchasing a few additional volumes. It is hoped that this in- stitution, while it tends to increase the intelligence, will also tend to promote the religious and moral improvement of the people. There is another library in the parish, which was instituted se- veral years ago, by an ingenious young man, who taught at that time a private school in that quarter. It is managed and supported by the people in that part of the parish, and, so far as I can learn, is in a prosperous state, and likely to prove conducive to their im- provement Charitable and other Institutions. — A Friendly Society was in- * This number, I am glad to find, is increasing, for the number of scholars in Pebruary 1835, attending the parish school, and the private schools mentioned since last census, amounts to 1 47, — while the population since last census has increased about 12. CARMYLIE. 375 stitttled here in 1816, and consisted of about 200 members, be- longing to this and to some of the neighbouring parishes. It appear- ed to be in a very prosperous state ; but declining to adopt the re* guktioDs contained in a late Act of Parliamient, regarding such societies, it was, in 1830, dissolved by mutual consent, and the funds er cow or full grown ox, grazed, or that may be grazed; for tbe senson, - - • - 2202 ^^robaUe value of the annual thinning, and periodical felling of plantations, 200 WoduM of quarries, ... ... 300 I^ 17,5(ii> There are employed in the parish, in carrying on agricultural operations, about 140 work-horses. And there are maintained • about 280 milk cows, whose produce is very advantageously dis- posed of to the large and rapidly increasing population of Dun- dee. But the annual value thereof is of course intended to be in- cluded in the value which has been assigned to the produce on wliich the cows subsist. V. — Parochial Economy. The nearest market-town is Dundee, and the distance to it, as has been incidentally stated, is five or six miles. Mecais of Communication, — The turnpike road from Dundee to Aberdeen by Forfar intersects the eastern extremity of the parish, and the rail-road from Dundee to Newtyle passes through a por- tion of the parish near its south-west boundary. The parish roads have been of late much improved, but they are still very suscep- tible of improvement. Eeclegiastical State. — The parish church and the manse are nearly in the centre of the parish, and whether distance or popu- lation be considered, a more eligible situation for them could not have been chosen. The church was built about the year 1806 — is in excellent condition, and contains sittings for 700 individuals* The manse was built about the year 1803, and has undergone such alterations, and received such repairs, as make it very comfort- able. The extent of the glebe is 5 acres, and its annual value may be estimated at L. 14« As to the stipend, it is 10 chalders^ and L. 30. There is not any place for public worship in the pa- rish except the Established Church, and all the inhabitants of the 36S FORFARSHIRE. parish) with the exception of four or five individuals^ adhere to the establishment. Divine service at the Established Church is well attended* The average number of communicants is about 450. The average amount of church collections yearly for religious and charitable objects, is about L. 50. Edncatioru — There are 5 schools in the parish^ namely, 1 pa^ rochial school, and 4 schools in detached situations, for compara- tively young children. The parochial schoohABtster has the maiu^ mum salary, and his house and the schoolroom are in good con-^ dition. The general expense of education per month or year is so rea- sonable as to place it within the reach of almost alL The very few children whose parents cannot afibrd to pay for their educa- tion, have their school fees paid from those funds which are un- der the control of the session. All the inhabitcmts above six or eight years of age can read, and a great majority of them are qualifi- ed to write. The people in general are adequately alive to the benefits of education. There is one parochial library, which is re- garded by the inhabitants with a lively interest, and is flourishing accordingly. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 10, and the average sum allotted to each per month is 5s. or 6s. ; but, besides those persons who receive statedly parochial aid, there are some to whom money, according to their circumstances, is oc- casionally given ; and a considerable sum is annually expended on fuel and clothing. The ordinary collections made in the church for the support of the poor, amount to about L. 30 per annum. Tne other sources of revenue are the interest of money, mortcloth dues, &c. , There has not been remarked any tendency in individuals to throw them- selves unwarrantably on the parochial funds, nor has there on the other hand been observed any particular delicacy in accepting aid from these fimds, when it has been actually needed. There are in the parish one inn and two ale-houses, but they do not a{^)ear to have produced to any considerable extent, a deteriorating efiect on the morals of the people. FueU — Coals (chiefly English) brought from Dundee, are in common use ; but in certain districts of the parish, the quantities of broom and fiirze, which may be easily procured, tend to lessen considerably the annual expenditure of the people for fuel September, 18364 PARISH OF KIRKDEN.* ■ PRESBYTERY OP ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. DAVID CARRUTHERS, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name,-- This parish, which is landward, was anciently called Idvie, owing to the glebe being situated in the barony o( Id vies, — with the etymology of which vocable we are not acquainted. Its modern name, however, is Kirkden — evidently derived from the fact of the church being placed in a sort of dell or valley, which depressions are termed dens in this quarter. Extent and Boundaries, — In length from east to west, it mea- sures nearly 7 miles ; its greatest breadth is not more than 2 ; at one part, within a mile east of the church, it does not exceed a stone-cast in width ; and its whole superficies is nearly 7 square miles. It is bounded on the north, by Rescobie and Guthrie ; on the south, by Carmylie; by Kinnell and Ihverkeillor, on the east; and by Dunnicben, on the west Topographical Appearances. — The parish is of an irregular fi- gure, but its surface, though gently undulated, is comparatively level, with the exception of a considerable ascent towards the south, formed by the termination of the Sidlaw Hills. From this elefation, the eye ranges over a rich and extensive panorama. Im- mediately around, are the mansions, woods, and lawns of many of the country gentlemen ; to the west, is the fertile and picturesque valley of Strathmore, on the back ground of which are the aspir- ing summits and grand rugged passes of the Grampian mountains; and to the east, are the towns, and bays, and headlands, along the coast. Meteorologyj Sfc, — The prevailing wind is from the east, which, during the months of spring, carries dense aqueous vapours, here termed eastern haarsj exhaled from the German Ocean. No par- ticular disease can be said to prevail. * Drawn up by a nephew of the present incumbent. 70RFAR. C C 384 FOUFARSHIRK. Hydrography. — At the junction of the parishes of Kirkden and Dunnichen, is a perennial well of a chalybeate nature, to which there seems to have been assigned extraordinary virtues in the curing of swellings and ulcers, even "after the applications of se- veral physicians had proved ineffectual." The small river Vinny, rising in the marsh or mire of Lower, in the parish and neighbour- hood of Forfar, washes the northern boundary of this parish for more than four miles ; it then enters the parish, and is shortly af- terwards joined by the Lunan, when they form together a consider- able stream called Lunan Water, which falls into the bay of that name near Redhead. From the marshy nature of the Vinny's origin and course, an immense body of water is accumulated in rainy weather, and poured down like a mountain torrent, inundat- ing the lower lands through which it flows. Both the Vinny and Lunan are excellent trbuting streams, and the latter contains pike, owing to the circumstance of its rising out of the loch of Resten- net, and communicating with the lakes of Kescobie and Balgavies, which abound with that species of fish ; a few salmon ascend it in the spawning season, which commences in the middle of Septem- ber, and ends about a month thereafter. Geology and Mineralogy.''^ — The greater part of this parish rests upon a hard grey sandstone formation, similar to that which stretches through the valley of Strathmore. It seldom, however, presents itself in this neighbourhood, unless where artificial excavations or ravines, formed by the action of water, have laid it open. Hard masses of indurated clay are found to alternate ; but I am not aware that any remains of the animal or vegetable kingdoms have been discovered in these strata, although several indistinct impres- sions of the latter kind are occasionally manifested. Trap rocks exist in the southern extremity of the parish, which are evidently a continuation of the Sidlaw Hills ; and, as the plains of the ad- jacent sandstone strata possess a coinciding direction, so it seems highly probable that both received their present dip and position from the same internal convulsion. These strata vary in their dip from 10° to 20% inclining to the east and south-east. Boulders. — Irregular masses of primitive rocks of large dimen- sions are frequently met with in the recently cultivated portions of the parish. These chiefly consist of mica-slate, greenstone, gra- * For a complete account on this head, see the rc})ort of the neighbouring parish •f Duunicbcu, drawn up hy the Kev. Jaints Headrick, whose acijuaintance with this hranch ot science is universaUy known. KIRKDEV. 385 nite, and gneiss. They are all considerably attriturated, and whe- ther their transportation to their present locality is to be attributed to the Noachian deluge, or to whatever cause, the agency must have been tremendous. They are fully twenty miles distant from the Grrampians, where they abound in situ^ and in the interval there are very bold acclivities, which could not fail to impede their transference thither. There are very distinct traces of gla- cier action throughout the valleys of the Vinny and the Lunan. The morainen are exceedingly well marked. Soily ^c. — The soil being the debris resulting from the disinte- gration of our rocks, is chiefly a friable clay, sometimes mixed with graVel and arenaceous deposits. It is naturally cold and shallow, but owing to judicious tillage, and the importation of mar), which is abundant in the neighbouring lakes, it has of late been gready improved, and is now capable of bearing every sort of crop. Quarries. — There are two excellent freestone quarries wrought, as occasion requires, — which afford employment to a considerable * number of men. Botany. — There is abundance of plantation in many parts of this parish, but little or no natural wood. The soil, when left uncultivated, seems disposed to produce whins, broom, fern, and heather. That extensive natural forests, at one time, however, waved over this county, is abundantly vouched for by tradition. Among the plants seemingly indigenous, or now spontaneously produced by the soil, we find, besides the more ordinary kinds, the Orchtis sylvaticus^ Solanum Dulcamara^ Radiola millegrana^ Chelidonium majusy Dipsacus sylvestrisy Veronica Beccahunga^ CisiuM helianthemumy Trifolium ornithopodioidesy T. striatum^ T. campestrey the latter often mistaken for T. pratense. Among the habitats of marshy districts and woods, are found — Menyanthes tri^ fbliatay Nupkar luteuy and occasionally NympluBu alboy Cicuta tnrosOf Subularia aquaticoy Typha latifoliay &c besides three spe- cies of Orchis, viz. viridisy albiday and conopsea. The poisonous Atrnpa Belladonna and Digitalis purpurea are abundant; and Flora at the proper season unfolds on the banks of rivulets and ravines, a rich display of varied garniture of the classes geraniumy avensy anemoniesy &c Wild mustard, Sinapis arvensisy is plentiful on the cultivated lands, and proves highly pernicious to the crops. Zoology. — The breed of cattle reared here is superior, namely, the Galloway or polled kind ; although many people, not know- ing whence the aborigines were imported, ignorantly denominate them the Angus breed. 386 FORFARSHIRE. It cannot be said that we have any variety of birds or quadru* peds peculiar to this district. II. — Civil History. Land'owners. — The only heritors of the parish are, Henry Bax- ter, Esq. of Idvies ; ♦ Thomas Gardyne, Esq." of Middleton ;t Alexaoder Lyell, Esq. of Gardyne ; James Mudie, Esq. of Pit* muies; and John Watt, Esq. of Kinneries. The second and third mentioned gentlemen are natives of the parish, and dwell here ; the fourth also resides in it ; and the first did so occasion- ally, at a handsome cottage erected on his estate. Parochial Registers, — A register of parochial matters, from the year 1650 to 1690, after having been lost for a long while, was accidentally discovered by the predecessor of the present incum- bent ; one of the leaves having been casually sent from a shop in the neighbourhood. From the latter date to 1735, no records are known to exist ; but they have since been regularly preserved to the present time. Antiqvities, — Opposite the mansion-house of Pitmuies, close by the turnpike road, there is an obelisk which has obviously been shortened by violence, or the abrasive influence of time, but is yet five feet high, with some mutilated hieroglyphics on it. It Is nich- ed into a large stone, and is supposed to have been erected in the year 1010, by Malcolm II. upon the defeat of the Danes. About fifty years ago, a tumulus was opened in the immediate vicinity of the stone in question, and several urns containing ashes of the dead were discovered ; and in the plain adjoining, nearly a score of stone coffins, placed laterally, were dug up, each containing an entire human skeleton. Stone coffins were recently discovered in the farm of BractuUo, containing human bones, with strings of beads apparently made of charred wood. There are, in the parish, two artificial mounds of a conical fi- gure, termed laws^ from the circumstance of criminals having been executed there during the feudal times. Both are at present beautifully ornamented with trees. One of them named BractuUo (Bractie law) is on the estate of Idvies; the other, called the Gal- lows-hill, is on the lands of Gardyne. Ancient Buildings. — The Castle of Gardyne is a very fine spe- cimen of an old baronial residence, resembling in its style of ar- • Mr Baxter having lately died, his affairs are conducted by his trustees, in be- hoof of his two daughters. t Mr Gardyne died January 1841, leaving his nephew, M^jor William Bruce, who has assumed the surname of Gardyne, heir to his landed property. KIRKDEN. 38 IV chitecture the famous Castle of Glammis. It is luxuriantly em- bosomed io trees, on the precipitous bank of a beautiful ravine, ivhich is enlivened by a murmuring stream of water. Modern Buildings. — The mansion-houses of Pitmuies and Mid- dletoD are comparatively modern structures. They are situated on a plain near the banks of the Vinny, and the surrounding woods and lawns are as tastefully disposed as the equality of the ground will admit oC 1 1 1. — Population. In 1755^ ih« number of population was 563 1790, . . 627 1801, . ... 674 1811, ... 738 I82I, .... 813 1631, . . 1039 1836, .... 1137' 1841, 1437 Causes of increase. — The chief c^use of augmentation is evi- dently the increasing speculation in mai^u fact u res, which has re- cently induced operatives to feu houses, at a cheap rate, on the estate of Middleton. The village, called Friockheim, has, in con- sequence, a population of 803. Exclusive of hamlets, or cottons (cot-towns), according to the orthography of the district, this is the only village in the parish ; hence, when its complement of inhabitants is deducted from the total population, the remaining 537 may be said to reside in the rural parts. The births for the last twelve' years averaged 32 annually. There is no register of deaths kept ; but the marriages during that time have been at the rate of 11 yearly. Under 15 years of age, 421 pcnionf. Betwixt 15 and 30, . 327 30 and 50, . 21 1 50 and 70, . 143 Upwards of 70, . 35 Toul. 1137 lliere are no individuals or families in this parish who can pro- perly be said to be of independent fortune, except the heritors for- merly mentioned, all of whom are proprietors of land to the year- ly value of L.'*200 and upwards. The number of bachelors and of widowers above fifty years of age, is about 16; and of unmarried women upwards of 45, 2i. There are ^QQ families in the parish, and the average number * The census of 1836 was tm the house of Northesk ; and from them it passed by purchase, about 1740, to the late Ear) of Panmure, who entailed it along with his other estates, and transmitted it to his grandnephew, the present proprietor. In 1659, the lands of Muirmills, along with the keepership of Monthrewmont Moor, belonged to Archibald Wood of Hilton, and soon afterwards merged in the estate of Bolshan. In the castle of West Braky there exists a memorial of the Fra- sers, — a coat-ofarms with the date 1581. The blazon of the arms is azure, three cinquefoils argent, — the cognizance of Fraser. Impaled with quarterly, first and fourth, gules three crescents of the second, — the arms of Pierrepont ; second and third, three mul- lets of the second, — the arras of Murray. There is no crest. Above the shield are the letters t. f. ; and over the letters is the motto, " Soli Deo confido." The foundation of the castle of Whitchills, which stood on the south side of the Lunan, and considerably higher up than the farm-steading of KinnelPs Mill, was dug up by the tenant, whose lease, after an occupancy of forty-three years, terminated in 1811. But it was a ruin in the seventeenth century, and furnished the materials for building what was called the Stone house, in the Kirktown of Kinnell, where a chamberlain or baronial officer re- 3 KINNELL. 397 sided) with the name of^provost, in old time ; and latterlvy the tenant of the Kirktown, with the same appellation. The castle of Bolshan, which, as Monipenny's Scottish Chro- nicles tell us in 1612, was Lord Ogilvy's special residence, has passed away with the other monuments of feudal grandeur. The cemetery and site of the chapel were subjected to the plough be- fore 1767. The last remains of the castle were removed soon after. And now, for a long while, there has been no other remem- brancer of the ancient glory of the place, than the peculiar appear- ance of the soil, a little to the westward of the present farm-house. The OgiWies, as proprietors, perhaps, of Bolshan, seem to have had a sort of heritable claim to the bailiary of the abbey of Ar- broath.* In the minority of Sir John Ogiivy, the Master of Crawfurd, availing himself of the distractions which prevailed over all Scotland, in consequence of the similar minority of King James II., obtained possession of the office. But his insolence ttid oppression soon disgusted the monks ; and the Ogilvies, un- der the conduct of Sir. Alexander Ogiivy of Inverwharity, tutor of the claimant, took up arms to assert their right. The Earl of Crawford, who had hasted from Dundee to attempt a reconcilia- tion between the contending parties, was recklessly slain as he went forward to hold a conference with Sir Alexander. His death was the signal for a general engagement, and victory de- clared on the side of his son. About 500 of the Ogilvies were slain, and among them Sir John Oliphant of Aberdaigay, and five lesser barons. Sir Alexander Ogiivy was taken, and carried to the castle of his rival at Finhaven, where, in a few days, he died of grief and wounds ; and the Earl of Huntly, who, having been accidentally Sir Alexander's guest, chose to partake of his quarrel as well as his hospitality, escaped only by the swiftness of his horse. About 100 fell on the side of the victors. The battle was fought on the 24th January 1445-6, in the neighbourhood of Arbroath; and men did not fail to remark the speedy punishment.which over- took the leaders of the two clans, and which they were unwittingly constrained to execute upon one another. For acting in concert with the Earl of Douglas, who had greatly increased the distrac- tions of the times, they bad been jointly engaged in plundering the vassals of the Bishop of St Andrews, and, indeed, were but recently returned from Fife with their spoils. In memory of the battle, a spur and boot, which had belonged to one of the slain • nocthii Hist. Lib. 18, ful. .%,5. Par. 1574. 398 FORFARSHIRE. chieftains, were hung up in the south aisle of Kinnell Church. After the aisle was unroofed, and excluded from the church in ] 766, the boot speedily fell to decay ; but the spur still exists, measuring 8 inches in length, and 4^ in breadth, and haviDg a rowel as large as a crown piece. And the verses. In which the feats of the connbatants were sung, have not yet altogether passed away from the remembrance of the people. In 1790 and 1805, there was found between Hatton and Hatton- mill, in the face of the bank above the Lunan, a considerable number of silver pennies and halfpennies, which the owners had probably concealed in troublous times, and afterwards, through death or other accident, found no opportunity of bringing forth again for the purposes of life. In both cases, the earthen pots which contained them were but slightly sunk into the gravelly bank ; and, what is remarkable, they were in both cases discover- ed by boys going to school, and those boys were brothers. It is said that there was no specimen of any rare coin among them ; and accordingly, instead of passing into the cabinets of the curious, .they were almost all of them melted down ; and a portion of the latter 6nding still exists not far from the spot where they were found, in an article of convivial utility, a ladle for a punch bowl. A halfpenny, however, still remains of John Baliol, having on one side a head crowned in proGle and looking to the right, and a sceptre surmounted with a lily before it, with the legend, ** Jo^ hannes Dei Gra ;" and on the other side, a cross, with a spur revel in two of the quarters, with the legend " Rex Scotorum" The others were of Baliol's cotemporary, Edward King of England, with the full face and legend of' Edw. R. Ang. Dns. Hyb^** on one side, and on the other side, the cross, pellets, and place of coin- age, " Civitas London. Cantor. Dublinie, Bristolief" &c Three years ago, in time of harvest, a similar coin, from the mint of York, fEboraciJy was found in a field not far from the castle of West Braky. But a piece far more valuable, both for rarity and intrinsic worth, was found, in 1829, on the farm of Mainsbank, by the side of a ditch, out of which it had probably been cast. It was an aureus, a gold coin of the Roman Emperor Antoninus Pius, bearing on one side the Emperor's head, with the inscription '^ Antoninus Aug. Pius P. P. Imp. II. ;" and on the other a victory, with the inscription « Tr. Pot. XIX. cos. IIW that is, " Antoninus Au- gustus Pius, father of his country ; twice saluted with the title of 4 KINNELL. 399 Emperor (Imperator) by the army and senate; nineteen times invested with the tribunitian power ; and four times with the con- sulship." And consequently it refers to the year 156 of the Christian era. This 'emperor 6xed the northern boundary of the Roman empire to the Forth and Clyde ; and though it does not appear that any province was erected permanently farther north, yet the transactions of commerce and war were sufficient to con- Yey the Roman coin beyond the frontiers ; and we know, that, in the beginning of the following century, the Emperor Severus lost many thousands in pursuit of the natives along the whole line of the eastern coast of Scotland. On the top of the Wuddy-law, the highest point in the parish, there was a large tumulus or barrow, the diameter of which was about 45 yards, and the height 4. It was composed of alternate layers of stones and earth ; and while the stones were removed during a course of several years for the filling of drains, earthen ▼easels containing a black fattish mould were occasionally disco- vered. And not far off, are the Gallow-law and Pit, where, if we may believe tradition, capital punishments were inflicted in an- cieot times. Above fifty years ago, a tenant cut across the top of this law, in the hope of falling in with hiddeu treasure, but he found nothing save some urns and half- burnt bones. In 1835, on Westfield of Hattonmill, at the removal of a cairn about 15 yards in diameter, a grave was discovered, built of rude stones, and about five feet in length, lying north and south, and sunk two or three feet below the surface of the hillock on which the cairn stood. The bones which the grave contained, seemed large, and the skull had best resisted the work of decay. But the whole of them speedily crumbled down. Between the cairu and the original surface of the hillock, there was a flooring or coating of three or four inches of clay. The grave was not in the middle of the cairn*-— At the Glesterlaw and other places, also, urns and bones have been discovered. In the Battle Drum Wood, on the north* west of the parish, there are many cairns or circular heaps of moor stones. They lie chiefly in two lines, which arc parallel to the Drum or ridge of the hill on the north, and to the Battle Burn on the south ; and they might be inclosed within two acres of ground. A little far-* ther east, but not in this parish, there are also the Battle Cairn, and the Battle Well, additional memorials of an event which has now no other record than those names and appearances. Tradi* FORFAR. P d 400 FORFARSHIRE. tion calls it a battle between the Picts and tbe Romans, — perhaps because tbe common name of the moor is Manromanf although most probably that name is a corruption of Manihrewnioni^ and consequently of much later date than the cairns. The Battle Burn issaid to have flowed with blood as far as Fithy; and the herdsmen when they drank out of the well, used to throw into it a bit of their bread, lest the water should turn to blood,"-a rem- nant, perhaps, of a very ancient superstition, which, peopling every department of nature with divinities, sought by means of preaents to conciliate their favour, or avert their malignity. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers commence about 1657. But there are several chasms ; and indeed the records fre- quently contain nothing but the collections and disbursements for the poor. The average collection for one Sunday in the summer season, was, in 1657, lOd. Sterling; in 1701, 2s. 4^d.; in 1710, Is. 4d. ; in 1750, Is. lid. The collection on the communion Sunday, in 1657, was 14s. S^d.; in 1701, L.d, 7s. 2^d.; in 1710, L.2, Os. 3d.; in 1750, L.2, 5s. lid. And in these two last sums are included the collections on the other three sacramental days. Down to 1701, there was no other week-day service connected with the communion than the preparation service on Saturday at two o'clock. The last Episcopal incumbent died in the following year; and under the present ecclesiastical establishment, no com- munion was administered till 1710, when the fast-day and thanks- giving day also make their appearance. Previously to 1702, there were on the communion Sabbath three several services, those of the morning, forenoon, and afternoon. The minister generally had two assistants. One of them preached the sermon in the morning, and the other the " thanksgiving^* sermon in the after- noon. The first of these services began very early, probably not later than seven or eight o'clock. In 1660, the people were ap» pointed to keep the communion, one-half at six o'clock in the morning, and the other half at eleven o'clock, and all to be pre« sent at the " Doctrine of Thanksgiving^* at four o'clock in the af- ternoon. Of the collections on the communion Sunday, by fiir the greater part, probably more than two-thirds, were collected, not at the doors, but at the tables; and it was not till after 1729 that the practice of collecting at the tables was discontinued. Of all the original parochial churches within the Presbytery of Arbroath, two only, those on Kinnell and Kirkden, continued to be rectories or parsonages at the time of the Reformation. Rirry KINNELL. 401 had been gifted to the Abbey of Balmerino ; Guthry was itself become a kind of conventual establishment; and the other churches were in the hands of the Abbey of Arbroath. The lands of the parish, at one time at least, seem to have been partly within the regality of Arbroath and partly within the barony of KinnelU And both under the Papal and under the Episcopal polity, Kin- nell, as well as all the parishes of the Presbytery, save Guthry, Panbride, and a part of Carmylie, was in the diocese of St An- drews. The following list of the ministers of Kinnell ascends almost to the time of the Reformation : Arthur Fethy was presented to Kinnell by James VI. in 1587, and translated to Inverkeilor in 1598. John Guthrie, reader in Arbroath, was presented to Kinnell in' 1599, translated to Arbirlot in 1603, to Perth in 1610, to Edin- burgh in 1620; consecrated Bishop of Murray in 1623; depriv- ed, along with the other Scottish Bishops, in 1638; and expelled from the Episcopal castle of Spynie in 1640. According to Keith, he was a venerable, worthy, and hospitable prelate ; and having encountered the storm, from which such of the bishops, as did not submit to Presbytery, fled for refuge into England, he re- tired to his own house of Guthrie in Forfarshire, and died, says MiddletoQ, exercising his charity amongst the poor in the time of the civil wars. His brother and his son John were ministers of Arbroath and DufTus. William Kinnear, reader in Arbroath, was presented to Kinnell in 1603, and died in 1612. Henry Futhie was admitted by the Archbishop of St Andrews with assistants in J 612, and translated to Fowlis and Lundie. James Guthrie was translated to Arbirlot in 1625. David Kinnear died in 1638. James Thomson, Senior, died after May 1681. James Thomson, Junior, having received ordination from the Archbishop, and institution from the Archdeacon, (Dean), was admitted by the Presbytery to be conjunct minister with his father in 1675, and died in his father's lifetime in 1681. David Thomson was admitted conjunct minister with his father ii lW— l> i»i l l«*« Ml M , jj .-.Ihlolfa » » ■ * ■" ■ . I t i 1 ii n n t nlMM*« .&rfl>.p-i*.fa?»«<»tictl l i j iii»i*.,»n» , ,.;dinlh««t f lii rt .ii M( n i t I ^ h»». Ita* ■ cue w:'^e av^v ■ *^ ■ • — r » — : f9>4 taUb 416 FORPAUSHIRE. years ago. Ruthven House is pleasantly situated near where the castle stood, and is the usual residence of the family, — a family equally distinguished for their kindness to the poor, and their at- tachment to their tenantry. Parochial Registers. — The session records have been very ill kept, and go no farther back than the year 1744 Those which remain, give very full details of some parochial transactions. Ca.ses of scandal especially are given with uncalled-for minuteness, and this is, perhaps, the reason why in this and many other parishes the session records have gone amissing. No one chooses to have the iniquities of his fathers handed down from generation to gene- ration, nor is it for the ediBcation of their posterity that they should be so circumstantially recorded. Much more interesting are any notices throwing light on the history of the times, as for example the following intimation : ** Ruthven, 1745, August 20, this day, the minister intimated from the pulpit, that, by reason of the pre- sent public troubles and confusions, and the distractions and divi- sions among people, he was obliged to defer the celebration of the sacrament of the Supper for this year." We find also, that, on the 20th of July 174G, « Thomas Crichton, at the Mill of Ruth- yen, was rebuked before the congregation for his great sin and scandal, as having been engaged in the late wicked and unnatural rebellion." III. — Population. In consequence of the introduction of manufactures, the popu- lation of this parish is increasing. In 1755, according to Dr Webster's report, the population was 280. In 1792, owing to the enlargement of the farms, it had decreased to 220. In the pre- sent year, it is 425. The following table shows the state of the population and the various denominations to which they belong: Total population, . 425 Koman Catholics, • 24 Males, . . 179 Giassites, . • 19 Females, . 246 Seceders, . . . 8 Children under 12 years of age, _ll 7 Episcopalians, . .7 Children under 7 years of age, 68 Average number of communi- Belonging to the Established cants, about 20 of whom are Church, . . 367 from the parish of Alyth, . 185 According to the Government census for 1841, the population of this parish is 471, but this included about 40 individuals who were employed in cutting an oak coppice, and did not belong to the parish. The proportion of females being so great is owing to the mills in the parish, where females are more employed than males. The RUTHVEN. 417 Roman Catholics are chiefly Irish, and are solely employed at the mills. Some of them attend the Established Church ; and they are always happy to see the clergyman of the parish in their houses, whether he is led there in the time of family distress, or in the course of his parochial visitations. There are two brothers deaf and dumb. The oldest person in the parish was born in the year 1746. IV. — Industry. JffrieuUure. — The number of imperial acres arable is, 1336 pasture, 170 wood, . 452 water, roads, &c. 70 Total number of imperial acres, 2034 The soil being in general a light loam, on a gravelly bottom, 11 well adapted for sheep and turnip husbandry, and its value hii been much increased of late years by the introduction of bone inaoure. Much of this manure is now used, and is found to suc- ceed admirably well. Excellent crops of turnip are thus raised, BM>re or less of which, in proportion to the weight of the crop, are cvried to the farm-yard, the remainder are eaten off the ground vith sheep. About 20 bushels of bone-dust are allowed for an >cre; and no small advantage resulting from the introduction of this manure is its superseding to a great extent the use of marl ; — R7 the too frequent and injudicious application of which, much of the ground in this neighbourhood has been materially injured. After the turnip crop, barley is generally sown, for which grain ^ soil is well adapted. There is very little wheat sown in the P^visb. The usual rotation of crops is, two years grass, oats, green ^^ including potatoes and turnips ; barley, sown out with grass. The general duration of leases is for nineteen years. The ^'iQ-steadings are mostly new, and in good condition. Great en- ^^^^migement to enclosing and draining has been afforded by the Mlord. Prom an old document, it appears that the rental of the parish ^ 1742 was L.2d0. When the last Statistical report was publish- ^itwasL.6dO. It is now about L. 1500. This is exclusive of wood, uie annual value of which, taking an average of the last thirty J^rs, is about L.200. The last four cuttings of the oak copse l^ught the following prices respectively, L.300, L.600, L.1270, •»»dL840. ^tanufaciures. — In the former Statistical Account, this pariah 418 FORFARSHIRE. is descril)ed Jis an advantageous situation for machinery: ^^ Tts centrical situation to the manufacturing villages of Cupar Angus, Alyth, and Kirriemuir; its moderate distance from the flourish- ing town of Dundee, — an excellent freestone quarry, — the plea- santness and fertility of the country, and the reasonable price of provisions, added to the waterfalls on the Isla, seem to concur in pointing out this little parish as a desirable spot for machinery and manufactures. Something of the kind is much wanted to quicken the industry of the tenants, and give a ready market to many articles of farm produce at present of little value. It is to be hoped that these natural advantages will not always be overlooked, and that an observing and industrious age will at length avail itself of circumstances so strikingly favourable.'' These judicious predictions have been in some measure fulfil- led. A manufacturing age soon began to appreciate such falls of water as those on the Isla, the value of which is now greatly enhanced by the completion of the Dundee and Newtyle Railway, which in a manner diminishes by two-thirds their distance from Dundee, the principal seat of the linen manufactures. Although the falls of the Isla have not been turned to so good account as those on the Ericht at Blairgowrie, seven miles west of this, yet they have not been altogether overlooked. Upon the space of a quarter of a mile of the Isla, we have two mills for thrashing com, a meal-mill, a flour-mill, a saw-mill, and also two mills for spinning flax. One of these spinning-mills was erected about twenty-six, the other eight years ago. Tbe number of work people, young and old, introduced into the parish by these spinning-mills is about 180, who, upon a fair computation, earn as wages L.200 per month, (not including managers' salaries,) the greater part of which is spent in the parish, in the purchase of beef, meal, milk, butter, and potatoes, thus afibrding ** a ready market for these ar- ticles of farm produce, and quickening the industry of the tenants.'* Much has been said and written of late about the demoralizing effects of factories, and it has been too much the fashion to de« scribe the mill-spinnijig population as the victims of oppression^ of disease, and of vice. Such may be the case at large works in large towns ; but in a retired country parish like this, it must be owing to neglect on the part of the proprietors and overseers of the mills, and not necessarily to the nature of the employment, that their work people are not as exemplary in their conduct as the other inhabitants of the parish. The welfare of those em- a RUTHVEN. 419 ployed at the mills here, I deem it but fair to state, is well consi- dered by their employers. All worthless characters, as sood as discoTered, are turned off, while the steady and well-behaved meet with every encouragement to continue. After the best op- portunities of becoming acquainted with them, afforded by paro- chial visitations and the like, I am not prepared generally to ad- mit that they are inferior to the average of those in the same grade of society in the parish, whether viewed in reference to health, morals, or religion. V. — Parochial Economy. Eedesiattical State. — Of the ancient ecclesiastical history of this small parish, nothing certain is known. It would seem to have been originally an offset from the large parish of Alyth. Tradi- tion says, that the church was first erected by the Earl of Craw- ford, proprietor of the barony of Inverquiech, in the parish of Alyth, as a chapel for the accommodation of his tenants, some of ivfaom had been killed in a quarrel with the RoUos of Balloch, in going to their parish church. Afterwards, the proprietor of Ruthven had influence enough to get his property erected into a separate pa- rish, of which the chapel of the Earl of Crawford became the parish church, and 22 acres of land adjoining were set apart as a glebe. Several circumstances combine to render this account not impro- bable. Indeed, this is the only reason we can see for the anomalous position of the church and manse, these being situated near Inver- quiech, and, according to some accounts, not in the parish of Ruth- ven and county of Forfar, but in the parish of Alyth and county of Perth. Nor in any other'way, can we account for a right claim- ed by the ministers of Ruthven to dig turf and to pasture their cattle on the barony of Inverquiech, in the parish of Alyth. If the parish of Ruthven is small, the stipend, till augmented by Government, was also small, — being only 26 bolls of barley and 26 bolls of meal. About L.114 is now paid by the Exchequer. Before this augmentation from Government, the glebe of 22 acres must have been an important item in the minister's income ; and it vras a wise motto, which an ingenious predecessor adopted, and vrhich is still preserved on a pane of glass in the parlour win- dow of the manse, *^ Aut cole, aut parce, aut abi." The re- verend gentleman tried all of these, — he farmed well, lived fru- gally, but nevertheless took his departure, and died minister of Guthrie. A schoolmaster from Ruthven seems to have followed ' him to Guthrie, for, in the churchyard here, a stone, erected to 420 FOBFAUSHIKE. the memory of some of his family, after a somewhat brief epitaph, concludes by informing the reader, that ** the other half of thi^ stone stands in the churchyard of Guthrie.^ Education. — The salary of the parochial teacher is L.dO ; his school fees amount to about L.15 per annum. He is also session- clerk and precentor, for which he receives a salary of L.4. There is occasionally a private school, in the summer evenings, for the bene&t of the young people at the mills ; and, during eight months of the year, a Sabbath school is held in the church, under the superintendence of the minister. At present, there are about 50 young people attending this school, including the children of pa- rents of every denomination. In connection with the Sunday school, there is a collection of small religious publications, which are kept in constant circulation, and are eagerly read by the young people in the parish. Poor. — There are few regular paupers, but a good many who receive occasional supply. There is a sum of L.80 in the heritor's hands, for which he pays the highest interest The average amount of collections for the last twelve years for behoof of the poor is L.28 per annum. This flourishing state of the poor^s funds is chiefly to be attributed to the circumstance of there being only one heritor, and that heritor residing almost constantly in the parish. Ale-house. — The only ale-house in the parish was put down by the heritors some years ago ; and it is probably as much owing to this circumstance, as to the institution of a Total Abstinence Socie- ty, that cases of drunkenness seldom occur in the parish. Fuel. — A good deal of wood is used in the parish ; but coals, brought from the railway depot at Newtyle, five miles distant, are the common fuel. Miscellaneous Observations. The labouring classes may be said to be in a prosperous state, and enjoy comforts unknown to their fathers. But if they are better fed, better clothed, and have more comfortable houses than their fathers had, they are unfortunately less provident. Following the fashion of the present time, they are too apt to live up to their incomes. They are, however, very charitable, and, when cases of poverty and distress occur, are always ready to give accord- ing to their ability. In general, they are intelligent and indus- trious, exemplary in their moral conduct, and regular in their at- tendance on the ordinances of religion, Auffust 1842. PARISH OF GLENISLA. PRISBYTSRY OF MEIGLB, SYNOD OF ANGPS AND MEARN8. THE REV. JAMES WATT, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish occupies the vale or glen through which flows the river Isia, until it leaves its native mountains, — a cir« cumstaoce from which it has obviously taken its name. Extent and Boundaries, — The parish is of an irregular form, of which the extreme length, in a straight line, is 18 miles, and the extreme breadth 6, and contains about 62.15 square miles, or S9,776 square acres. It is bounded on the north, by the parishes of Cratbie, and Clova (united to Cortachy) ; on the east, by Kir- riemuir, Lintrathen, and Airlie ; on the south, by Alyth ; and on the west, by Alyth and Kirkmichael. Topographical Appearances, — Glenisla is terminated on the north by that part of the mountain-barrier which separates Aber- deenshire from Forfarshire, at the extreme north-west corner of the latter county. From thence proceed southwards two lofly ranges, which form for a short way, with intervening mountains, the small pastoral vales of Glenbrichty, Caanlochan, and Dalchal- lie. These mountain ranges afterwards proceed in a nearly southern direction, and bound the parish on the east and west, until within a very short distance of its southern extremity. The hill of Kilry divides it into two districts of nearly equal size. It stretches across it from its western boundary in an eastern di- rection, leaving only a narrow de6le, by which the Isla debouches OD the east. From the north side of this hill, the mountain-chain, already mentioned ns determining the eastern boundary, is be- held resolving itself for a few miles into three massy ranges, parallel to each other, and forming the two narrow pastoral districts drained by the burns of Pitlochrie and Glenmarkie. From the opposite side of the Kilry Hill is seen a chain of hills stretching westwards, bounding the vale of Kilry on the south, and forming the southern extremity of the parish. A narrow 422 FOUFAUSHIRE. Stripe of the parish extends from the eastern termination of this chain of hills down to Airlie Castle. This stripe of land is bounded on the north by the Isla, and on the south by a small rivulet which separates the shires of Forfar and Perth. The lowest of the mountain-ranges of Glenisla is about 1400 feet above sea-level. From the foot to the centre of the parish, they are bleak and un« interesting in their character. Northward from thence, they gra- dually assume the attributes of real alpine scenery, and terminate in the Glassmile,^ — a mountain which is upwards of 3000 feet above the level of the sea. Mount Blair, from its isolated position, is the most conspicuous hill in the parish. It belongs to the western bounding range, which is indented on the north and south sides of this mountain by narrow passes leading into Glenshee and the district of Black- water. Mount Blair is of large circumference, and elevated above the level of the sea about 2260 feet. On the east and west it is of moderate acclivity, and is often ascended by strangers for its com- manding view. On the other sides it is steep and broken. It has two summits ; — the lower one 6at and of a longitudinal form ; the other one precipitous, and crowning its southern verge. On gaining the top of this precipitous summit, the toils of his ascent are, in clear and serene weather, immediately forgotten by the tourist, from the extensive and varied views which present them- selves. His eye ranges with delight over the rich and beautiful districts intervening between him and the German Ocean, the Lammermoor, Pentland, and Ochil Hills, which bound the pros- pect on the east and south, — while he beholds, in the opposite di- rections, Shichallion, Ben-Mac-Dui, Ben-A'an, and Lochnagar, raising their mighty forms amidst an ocean of mountains. Hydrography. — There are several perennial springs in the pa- rish of great magnitude and purity. Of these the Lady Well, close by the manse, and the Well of Coryvannoch, near the base of Mount Blair, are the most noted. The temperature of the former is 48^ that of the latter 46°. The Coryvannoch Well, although not a chalybeate, was, in former times, much resorted to by the people of the district on the first Sabbath morning of May. It was then considered to be particularly efficacious to sickly children, more especially about day-break. The parents of such failed not, in * There is a prop of stones o\\ the western verge of the Glassmile, which is dc- servinj; of notice by reason of its locality* — resting, as it may be said to do, upon three parishes, — Glenisla, Kirkmichael, and Crathic ; and also upon three counties, .->Forfar, Perth, and Aberdeen. GLENISLA. 423 coDseqaeDCOs to have them conveyed thither at a very early hour. Trinkets of various sorts were thrown into the well by those who had Bsed its waters, either as thank-offerings or with the view of preserving its sanatory virtues. These qualities, however, it seems to be regarded as having now«a-days lost, as it is seldom drunk of bot by the passing shepherd, or those whom curiosity, arising from its former reputation, induces to pay it a visit. Some of the springs are a slight chalybeate ; but in general they are without any traces of mineral impregnation. The Isia is the principal river in the parish. It takes its rise in the wilds of Caanlochan, and runs, in general, in a south-east- erly direction, until it join the Melgura at the bottom of the pa- riih» and immediately behind Airlie Castle. The average breadth, depth, velocity, and body of water of the Isla, in so far as it is connected with the parish, are as follows : breadth in feet, 47 ; ^th in feet, 1.2; velocity in feet per minute, 116.28; flow in Gobic feet per minute, 8248.^; flow in gallons per minute, 5141.22. ^o the admirers of wild and romantic scenery the Isla, as it ap- Pi^aches the lower extremity of the parish, has many objects of P^uliar attraction. From the Bridge of Miina- Craig downwards, ^oe bed and banks of the river assume an entirely new character, Md every spot is interesting, either from the beauty of its foliage, ®^ the hugeness of its crags, or the fearful struggling of its wa< ^^ The cataract of the Reekie-Linn, a short way below the ^''^dge just mentioned, is undoubtedly one of the most splendid "*^ remarkable features of our Scottish rivers. Here the Isla, "^^ing an average flow of about 11,000 cubic feet, is suddenly ^PtH)sed by projecting barriers of rock, unless at a narrow gorge, *'^^nce it dashes from a height of 60, and almost immediately af- ^^ irom another height of 20 feet. In both cases, it throws the *^^e weight of its waters upon serrated masses of rock in the gulf . lc)w, thus creating reverberation that seems to shake the solid bar- '^^^^s, 120 feet in height, which surround it, and sending up a spray ^^t shrouds them in perpetual mist, and rises to the height of *^^ beautiful sylvan scenery which crowns their summits. The rocks, the falls, and ** the deep placid pool below" are *^^ii to great advantage from a rustic bower, erected by John Hill, ^^^. the proprietor, on the south bank of the river. Nearly two miles further down the Isla are the Slugs of Auch- ^tinie. The upper one is the most deserving of notice. Here ^^^ river is suddenly contracted by stupendous clifis into a space 424 FORFARSHIRE. scarcely exceeding three yards in breadth. Through this frightful * chasm the deep boiling flood forces itself with tremendous power, and, in curling wreaths of foam, thunders down a steep broken channel, of considerable length, into a gloomy but spacious ravine, walled by rocks quite perpendicular and of great altitude. These are surmounted by a profusion of trees, exceedingly rich and va- ried in their foliage, which the hand of man never planted, and many of which he will never dare to approach. Altogether, the scenery of this remarkable spot, whether viewed from the head of the Slug, or the summits of the lofty banks of the river, is extremely gmnd and imposing. Geology. — The parish extends over a surface which takes iu a part of the primitive, the whole of the transition rocks, and a por- tion of the secondary or old red sandstone series. From its ex- treme northern boundary south to below Mount Blair, the rocks are gneiss and mica-slate, the latter being the most prevalent. The strata dip very rapidly, chiefly towards the north-west These rocks are accompanied by large masses of quartz, and are thickly studded with crystals of the common garnet, of considerable beau- ty, but of no economic value. At the base of Mount Blair and in its neighbourhood, some beds of limestone also prevail, but in ra- ther inconsiderable masses. It is of a bluish-gray colour, and is wrought for burning. The kilns used for that purpose are gene- rally small, ill-constructed, and inefficient. The lime is broken in small pieces like road-metal, and burned with peats. This pro- cess of calcination, although feeble and expensive, is now generally adopted by the farmers of the district, and the manure thereby obtained produces very powerful effects. The limestone itself contains a considerable proportion of siliceous matter, with, how- ever, very few other impurities. South of Mount Blair, the grey- wacke series begins. Nearly opposite the manse, it first makes its appearance in masses near the river. It is here a conglome- rate, having a dirty ochrey hue, unless where frost-broken. De- scending the glen, about half-way to Lintrathen, the character of this rock becomes totally changed. It here assumes the aspect of fine-grained sandstone, and furnishes very perfect examples of grey wacke slate. Fine crystals of brown spar are found imbedded in the rock. At Kilry is found a thin bed of transition clay-slate. It is the same which cuts across Scotland from sea to sea, and fur- nishes the slates of the Stormont, Newtyle, &c. The whole mass of strata is here about 40 feet thick, and dips to the north-west at 4 GLENISLA. 425 ■ an angle of about 70^. The plates, however, could not be obtain- ed in great breadth, nor cut up so thin as to make them be much iought after for the purpose of roofing. A short way down from this is the burn of Kilry, where porphyry appears, and where jas- per is found of such excellent qualities as to be much prized by the lapidary. Pursuing the line of the Isla, we find the stratifica- tion very complicated and irregular. Near the bridge of Milna- Craig, conglomerate of the old red sandstone appears. At the bridge itself, it dips at an angle of about T north. At the fall, 200 yards below the bridge, the dip suddenly changes from this to one . of about 73° south. This sudden change in the stratification seems tD have occasioned the splendid cataract of the Reekie Linn al- ready noticed. Half a mile lower down, an enormous mass of fel- ipar porphyry makes its appearance. The scenery here, in a pic- turesque point of view, is very magnificent. A massy vein of black ksalt crosses the river still lower down ; and at the Slug of Auch- nnnie, conglomerate prevails. Soon after this, old red sandstone uvisible, dipping at first towards the north at an angle of 70% but mddeuly changing as it approaches the lino of the Barry-hill of Alfth, at the extreme south-east corner of the parish, it dips south ^ao angle of 60^. The sandstone makes an excellent building >U)Qe. The alluvial matter in the parish consists chiefly of ir- fepilar deposits of till and of water-worn gravel.* The latter, ftloDg with moss, enters largely into the composition of the soils IQ the upper district. These are in consequence generally loose and friable, but when well wrought and manured, yield, pretty abundantly, most of the different species of cultivated plants. In the lower district, the rocks are covered by a thick deposit of clayey till. The soil is hence tenacious and unfertile until well-drained, when it produces, especially when manured with lime, heavy crops of grass and all kinds of grain. Zoology. — Of the rarer species of animals we have the following: Lepiu variabilis^ alpine or white hare, on the higher mountains ; Certms Elaphvs^ the stag, and C. Capreolus, the roebuck, in the Earl of Airlie's forest, Caanlochan. Falco Chrysaetos^ the golden eagle ; F. ater^ black eagle ; F. Alhicilla^ the erne ; and P. Milvus, the kite or gled. These occupy the steepest clifls of Caanlochan. Corvus coraXf the raven ; C, coroney the carrion crow ; and C. cor'» * Fur the above information on the Geology of the parish, I am much indebted to Mr G. Buist, author of the Highland Society's Frire Esaay on the Geology oC Pcrthibire. 426 FORFAUSHIUE. mx, the hooded crow, chiefly on the higher mountains. Scolopax arquatOi curlew, and Ckaradrius plucialis^ golden plover, breed on the hills. Tetrao tettix^ the blackcock. Birds of this species had become pretty numerous until the winter of last year, when many of them were destroyed by the severity of the storm. Tetrao LagopuSf the ptarmigan, in the highest mountains of the parish ; T. attagen or Scoticus, red grouse or moorfowl. This species is found in all seasons of the year as far south as the hill of Kilry, although in largest numbers towards the head of the parish. Falcoperegrimi$f peregrine falcon. Birds of this species frequent the rocks of Auch- rannie, also the cliffs at the entrance of Caanlochan. Laceria agiliSf the nimble lizard ; L. vulgaris, common lizard. The salmon is not found in the Isia above the slug of Auch- rannie. Common trouts are abundant in all the streams of the parish, but are rather inconsiderable in size. Botany. — The Glenisla district abounds in alpine plants, more particularly Caanlochan, the small valley already mentioned as si- tuated at the head of the parish, and where the mountains attain an elevation of upwards of 3000 feet. To this part of the glen the attention of botanists has been more especially directed, and here it is that they have met with the rarest species in Britain, and even with plants which are peculiar to this station alone. The vegetation on all the elevated hills of the glen is similar to that of other mountainous districts in Scotland. The following list, with which I have been kindly favoured by Professor Balfour of Glas- gow, will prove interesting to the botanist It enumerates plants which are of rare occurrence on our Scottish Alps, but which grow in considerable abundance in Caanlochan, viz. Thalictrum alpi' num ; Thlaspi alpestre, a plant found nowhere in Scotland except in Caanlochan. Lychnis alpinay a species for which the only British station is on little Gilrannoch, near the head of Glenisla, Potenlilla alpestris^ Dryas octopetalay Cherleria sedoides^ Cerastium alpinuniy Saxifraga nivalis^ Erigeron alpinus^ Sanssurea alpina ; Sonchus alpinusy one of the rarest British plants found in three or four stations in Caanlochan. Azalea procumbenSf Pyrola rotundi" folia, Gentiana nivalis, a plant, the only British stations for which are Caanlochan and Ben Lawers. Veronica alpina and saxatilis, Salix reticulata, lanata, arhutifolia, Juncus trifidus and castaneus, Carex atrata, pfuBOstachya, rarifiora and aquatilis, Alopecurus aU pinus, Phleum alpinum, and Aira alpina. GI.KNISLA. 427 Od the lower grounds in the parish there are no plants pecu* liarly worthy of notice, except Rumex aquaticuSf which occurs in some places pretty abundantly. II. — Civil History. Lnd'^nonert. — The chief land-owners are, taking them in order, aeeording to the value of their lands, the Earl of Airlie ; James Battray, Esq. of Kirkhillocks ; John Sm} th, Esq. of Balharry ; ind Sir James Ramsay, Bart, of BamfT. Parochial BegiUers. — The oldest volume of the parish registers commences in the beginning of the year 1704, and ends in 1723. Tke next volume commences 1741, and ends 1806. The last oommences in November 1806, and contains the records from that period until the present year. These registers are pretty veil kept, but none of them appear to be complete. AndquitieM. — The Castle of Fortar, as an object of antiquity, sod as identified in history with the ** troubles of Scotland,'" is de- serving of notice. It is situated at the head of the principal part of the glen, which it has evidently been constructed with the view of commanding, along with the adjoining passes leading to Glen- sbee and Braemar. A part of the walls is yet almost entire, from which, with others in a ruinous condition, it appears to have been a place of considerable size and strength. This castle was a mountain-keep of the Ogilvies of Airlie, and was frequently oc- cupied by them until the year 1640, when it was plundered and destroyed by the Earl, afterwards Marquis of Argyle. In the in- dictment of the Marquis in 1661, special allusion is made to that event.* And the following quaint narrative of it is given by Spald- ing in his " History of the Troubles, &c. of Scotland."f " Now the Committee of Estates finding no contentment in this expedition," — an expedition directed by the Earls of Montrose and Kinghorn against the house of Airlie, — ^^and hearing how their friends of the name of Forbes and others in the country were daily injured and opprest by Highland lymmars broken out of Lochaber, clan Gregor out of Brae of Atholl, Brae of Mar, and divers other places, therefore they give order to the Earl of Argyle to raise men out of his own country, and first to go to Airly and Furtour, two of the Earl of Airly's principal houses, and to take in and de- stroy the same, and next to go upon the lymmars and punish them. Likeas conform to his order, he raises an army of about 5000 men, * Wodrow's Hist. Book 1st, cap. ii. f Vol. i. anno 1640. 428 FORFARSHIRE. and inarches towards Airly ; but the Lord Ogilvie, hearing of his coining with such irresistible force, resolves to flee and leave the house manless : and so for their safety they wisely fled ; but Ar- gyle roost cruelly and inhumanly enters the house of Airly, and beats the same to the ground, and right sua he does to Furtour ; syne spoiled all within both houses, and such as could not be car- ried they masterfully brake down and destroyed. Thereafter they fell to his ground, plundered, robbed, and took away from him- self his men, tenants, and servants, their haill goods and gear, corns, and cattle whatsomever that they could get, and left nothing but bare bounds of sic as they could carry away with them, and what could not be destroyed they despiteful ly burnt up by fire.** In the course of last year a silver coin or medal, of Anselm Ca- simir. Elector Archbishop of Mentz, was turned up by the plough in one of the fields of Bellaty, in this parish. It is of the size and nearly the weight of a crown piece, and is in an excellent state of preservation. On the one side is a half-length figure of a venerable-looking old man, with the inscription anselmvs : ca- siMiRvs : D : G : archiepi 4-. On the reverse is an (esc u tc h eon, complete in all its details, and surmounted by a mitre and cross, with the legend : s : rom : imp : per : ger : arch : ca : p : e : MOG. The date of this curious relic may be pretty accurately con- jectured, when it is stated that Anselm Casimir was Arch-Chan- oellor of the German empire, and Archbishop of Mentz, (Mogun- tium), in the year 163 J, when that city was surrendered to Gus- tavus Adolphus, (Schiller's Thirty Years' War, Moires Trans. Vol. ii. pp. 32-36.) A silver coin, apparently of the reign of James I. of Scotland, and one of Queen Elizabeth, bearing the date of 1594, have also been found on the same farm. It may be remarked, as tending in some measure to account for these disco- veries, that Bellaty is in the immediate neighbourhood of the re- mains of Newton Castle. Tbat castle is said to have belonged to the family of Airlie ; but the vestiges of it are now so slight, that they can hardly be traced. III. — Population. The population of the parish has decreased very considerably since the return to Dr Webster in 1755, which was 1852. This decrease may, in a great measure, be attributed to tbe converting of several contiguous pendicles of land into one possession, a prac- tice which has been occasionally adopted since the middle of last century ; and more especially to the abolition of townships, by the OLENISLA. 429 aasigiiatioii af Ike allotments of each to one or two separate te- nants. The oainlMn at each census are as follows : — Amoont of pofralmiioD in I7U« • lOlB ]8il, . 1209 1821 • 1144 1891*, .' 1 i2D, vis. 566 malet, and 563 femalet. 1841, IIM Tbe yearly mTcnge of births is • 27 marriagei, • • 8l^ deaths* • • 14 Tbo number of penona at present under 15 ymn of u« is 377 betwizt 15 and 80^ 284 30 and 50, 258 50 and 70, 19» upwards of 70, 36 l^rom this last statement it appears, that, since 1831, there has been a decrease of population of 35, — a circumstance owing chieflj to the removal of several families to the neighbouring parish of Aljth. There are twenty-one proprietors of land of the yearly value of L50 and upwards ; twelve of these reside in the parish, and nioe are non-resident. Of oomarried men, bachelors, and widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, the Buaberis ...... 29 TbesDiDber of unmarried women upwards of 45, is . * 34 There is one fatuous person, a male ; and four deaf and dumb, ooe male and three females. A few of the families, originally from Kirkmichael parish, usu- ally converse together in the Gaelic tongue ; but the language gODerally spoken is the dialect peculiar to Angus-shire, with a slight approach, in the upper district, to the Gaelic accent. Character of the People. — In their general character, the poople are sober, obliging, and industrious ; much attached to their native glen, and to one another ; attentive and hospitable to strangers, and charitable to the wandering poor. They >VB regular in observing the public ordinances of religion, and the attendance of late, both at the week and Sabbath day- tehools, evinces that they are manifesting an increasing anxiety 'or the moral and religious improvement of the young. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of cultivated imperial acres in the parish is about 3960, and of uncultivated upwards of 30,000. Of ^ose a portion, equal to one-seventh of the present arable acres, ^*ght be profitably added to the cultivated land. The number of ^res in a state of undivided common is about 4500, and the num- ^r under wood, natural and planted, may be 500. The planta- 430 FORFARSHIRE. lions are, for the most part, young, and consist chiefly of larch and Scotch Gr, to which sorts of timber the soil appears most congenial. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land per imperial acre may be estimated at L.L To the arable, however, is com- monly annexed a portion of hill ground, or the privilege of mountain pasture. The charge for grazing is, in the lower district, at the rate of L.2 per ox or cow, and in the upper district, on hill and bog pasture, from 12& to I4s. ; for a full-grown sheep, Is. 6d. Live-Stock. — The numbers of cattle, sheep, and horses are nearly as follows, viz. 231 horses, 1785 cattle, and 9680 sheep. The cattle are of the Angus and Highland breeds. The sheep are of the black- faced breed, and are brought, for the most part when young, from the Linton and Lanark markets. Husbandry, — The rotation of cropping generally observed throughout the parish is that of six years, viz. L fallow ; 2. corn sown out with grass seeds ; 3. and 4. grass ; 5. and 6. corn. This mode of cropping is, however, in many instances, about to give way to a rotation of seven years. The land will thus remain three years in grass, — a period of rest which seems necessary in order to keep it in a favourable state of production. The general duration of leases is fourteen years, — a term which is obviously less favourable than one ^of nineteen to an active and industrious tenant. Twenty-two of the proprietors farm their own lauds. The farms vary in size from 8 to 200 acres and upwards, exclusive of untilled ground. Great attention is now paid to their drainage and cul- ture. In the southern district especially, they are well laid out. Much has yet to be done in the way of fencing, although, in re- gard to a few of the larger farms, the fields are well enclosed. The farm-buildings are in general suitable to the possessions, and in tolerable repair. Several of them are of recent erection, and are at once substantial and commodious. Provisions and Wages. — The price of provisions and rate of wages in 1791 and 1888 may be stated as under. In 1791. In 1838. Provisions. Beef and mutton per lb.* xienSf • . • • • Chickens, .... Pigs, ..... Now butter per lb. ... Eggs per dozen, . • . • • The pound, when not specified in this toble, is, for 1791, the Dutch, and for 1888, the imperial pound. L.O 3 L.O 6 8 1 3 3 6 2 G 10 6 ^k ... 6 GLENISLA. 431 CheewpcritoiMof2ios. per lb. L.0 5 L.O G 6 OttmMl per boll, . 15 18 A Bailey mee] per boll, 10 6 14 Wagee. PlougfaTnen per year, with maintenance, 7 10 13 Maidaerraota per year, with maintenance, 3 (i ii 7 Labo u rera per d^, average for the whole year, 10 10 Famalci Do. Do. . 3 7 Maioni,fte. Do. Do. ,011023 Amount of raw Produce, — This, as nearly as can be ascertainedy is as follows : — 1650 arable Soote acres in eom, value of corn and straw at L.6 ^ acrc,L.9900 550 aorea green crop at L.6, lOs. per acre, . d<>75 550 aorea m hay at L.5 per acre, 2750 550aerea in pasture at L.1, 6a. per acre, 715 90000 imperial acres in unimproved pasture at Is. per acre, 1500 L. 18,440 The valued rent of the parish is L.3440. The real rent may be about L.4d00. V. — Parochial Economy. MeanM of Communication. — The nearest post-office is at Mei- gle. There is, however, a sub-office at Alyth, which is the near- est market-town, and about eight miles from the church of Glenisla. Two lines of road are kept in repair by the Statute Labour Assessment, — the one leading to Alyth, the other communicating with Kirriemuir and Castletown of Braemar by the Spittal of Glenshee. The former of these is about eight and a half miles in length, the latter six. The other roads are, for the most part, imperfectly formed, and prove very inditferent means of communication. The bridges are four in number, of which two are of stone, one of iron, and one of wood. The two latter are intended chiefly for foot-passengers. Ecelenastical State, — The church is centrically situated for the population ; but, from the great length of the parish, and its moun- tainous nature, scarcely more than one-half of the inhabitants are within four miles of it. It was built in 1821, is in a good state of repair, and affords accommodation for 700 persons. The seats are allotted to the people according to the valued rent of the pro- perties on which they reside. The manse was built in 1813, and is still in good condition. The glebe consists of about eight acres. Fifteen acres of moor land were lately added to it, by the division ofa neighbouring common, three acres and three-quarters of which have since been improved. The whole would let for L.16. The amount of stipend is L.1 50, with L.8^ 6s. 8d. for communion ele- ments. The number of families attending the Established Church, in« VORFAB. Ff 492 F0KFAR8HIRB. eluding, in this number, single and unmarried persons having houses of their own, is 208, and the average number of communi- cants is 630. The number of Dissenters is 6, of which 3 are male heads of families. There are no Episcopalians, but occa- sionally 2 or 3 Catholics, servants, in the parish. Divine service is generally well attended, allowance being made for distance from the church, the bad state of the roads, and the mountainous cha- racter of the district. Education. — There are 3 schools in the parish. Of these, one is parochial, one supported by the Society for Propagating Christ- ian Knowledge, and the other is unendowed. The parochial teacher has the legal accommodation and the medium salary. His salary, with school-fees, is about L.40 per annum. The in- come of the Society school teacher is L.20 ; and that of the un- endowed teacher about L.18. The average rate of school-fees is 2s. 6d. per quarter. The branches commonly taught are reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar, and geography. There are none of the young betwixt six and fifteen years of age who cannot read. Of persons upwards of fifteen, there are 3 who can neither read nor write. The schools are conveniently situated for the bulk of the population. The young, who reap not the full benefit of them, reside near the extremities of the parish, or in detached districts. These parts are so thinly inhabited, that the erection of schools in them is hardly to be expected. During the winter season the schools are well attended. In summer the attendance is compa- ratively small, a great proportion of the young being employed in herding cattle, &c. The Society school has proved a great bles- sing to the people in the upper district, where, by means of it, all the poorer children are taught gratis. An endowment for the school in the Burn of Kilry district is much wanted. Nearly two- fifths of the young are within a reasonable distance of it ; and a moderate endowment, while it would reduce the price of education to the poor, would also secure permanently the services of an effi- cient teacher for that populous part of the parish. Library, — A library in connection with the Sabbath schools has. recently been established. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving regular aid from the parish is 8^ ; and the average sum allotted to each per month, exclusive of house-rent, is 6s. The church collections for their relief amount to L.26 per annum. The interest of money lodged in the bank and other funds destin- ed for the purpose, average nearly L.12 more, making the annual OLENI8LA. 433 income of the poor about L.38. The average number of persons receiving occasional aid from the funds is 4. The annual sum distributed amongst them is from L.d to L.4. Generally speak- ing, the poor consider public aid as degrading, and are reluctant to apply for parochial relief. Fain. — There are two annual fairs. One of these, at which a few horses are offered for sale, is held on the 1st Wednesday of March, O. S. The other is held on the 1st Wednesday of Au- gust, O. S^ for the sale of sheep and cattle. iuum — There are 4 small inns in the parish. jFbe/.— The fiiel consists chiefly of peats, procured at various mosses, at the expense of making and carriage. MrSCBLLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. Since the date of the last Statistical Account, smuggling has been entirely suppressed ; the statute labour has been converted into money, a change of system the good effects of which are every year becoming more apparent by the improved state of the roads ; a ftone and au iron suspension bridge have been thrown across the bla ; occupancy by runrig has, with a single exception, been abandoned; and one-third at least has been added to the culti- vated land of the parish. The reduction of the duty on ardent spirits, whatever bad con- sequences may have resulted from it elsewhere, has been produc- tive of the best effects here, both in respect of the morals and in- dustry of the population. By putting an end to illicit distillation, it has been the means of directing the efforts of the people towards extensive agricultural improvements. And the consequences are, that while formerly, to use the words of the last Statistical Ac- count, ^* the grain produced in this district was not sufficient for the consumption of the inhabitants," several thousand bolls of it are now, unless in very unfavourable seasons, annually sentto the market. While formerly most of the families laboured in a vocation at once dishonourable, debasing, and yielding them at best a preca- rious means of subsistence, they are now actively engaged in pur- suits which tend to enhance their own comfort in every point of view, and to beneflt the public. These happy results are already 80 apparent, that the suppression of smuggling, which was at first generally bewailed as a great parish calamity, is now unanimously acknowledged to have proved a positive parish blessing. It should also be mentioned, that upwards of 10,000 acres of hill ground have, in course of the last twelve years, been divided among those proprietors by whom they were formerly held in com- 434 FORFAllSHIRE. mon. Several of these allotments in the lower district are already covered with thriving plantations. This is one of the good ef- fects of the division of commons, which, it is to be hoped, will in a few years be more generally observed in the parish : while the im- provement of live-stock, and an additional quantity of land under tillage, are other results from the same cause, which may pretty confidently be anticipated. It is matter of regret that neither the advantages of their in- dustry, nor the benefits of public worship, have, hitherto, been suf- ficiently enjoyed by the people here, from the want of a proper line of road to connect the upper and the lower districts with each other. The present line, which crosses the hill of Kilry, is, from its steepness, always inconvenient, and in winter storms, from its great elevation, frequently impassable. It was lately proposed to abandon this road for one that should communicate with Strath- more by the eastern base of Kilry, and be connected by a bridge, near the church, with the road from Kirriemuir to Braemar, al- ready noticed in this report. With respect to the economy and industry of the parish, this would be an improvement of the great- est consequence, while, by rendering Glenisla an easy channel of communication between Newtyle and the north of Scotland, it would, in a public point of view, be of no small importance. August 1842. PARISH OF CORTACHY AND CLOVA. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARN8. THE REV. WILLIAM OGILVY, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Namet ^c, — Cortachy or Quartachie, as mentioned in the for- mer Statistical Account of the parish, may be derived from the Gaelic word ^* qhuartaich/' which signifies enclosed or surrounded. The name is descriptive of the situation of the parish in reference to the church and castle, as they are situated in a small valley sur- rounded by rising grounds. The origin of the name Clova, an- ciently written Clovay, is unknown. Cortachy and Clova, at one time separate parishes, were united in 1608. Extent and Boundaries. — Cortachy, from its boundary on the CORTACHY AND CLOVA. 435 south to its northern extremity, is about 10 miles in length ; to- wards the south, where it is bounded by the junction of the South Esk and Prosen rivers, it is narrow, and in the form of an acute angle. Its mean breadth is about 4 miles ; its superBcial area is upwards of 37 square miles, or 23,680 English acres. It is bound- ed OD the south and south-west, by the parishes of Kirriemuir and Kingoidrum ; on the east, by Tannadice ; on the north-east, by a range of the Grampian mountains, which separates it from the pa- rish of Lochlee ; and on the north-west, by Clova. Clova is about 10 miles in length and 4 in breadth ; the inhabited or arable part of it is about 4 miles in length, and half a mile in breadth. It is bounded on the south-west, by Glenprosen, a district of the pa- rish of Kirriemuir ; on the west, by Glenisla ; and on the north- east, by the parishes of Glenmuick and Lochlee. Topographical Appearances. — The general appearance of the parish is mountainous. On the south-east part of Cortachy, the surfiice is greatly and beautifully diversiBed. Of late years the grounds have been highly improved, and are either under various agricultural crops or adorned with young and thriving plantations. This portion of the parish is composed partly of level, but for the greater part of rising grounds, — the latter, forming the commence- ment of one of the ranges of the Grampian mountains, decline on the south and south-west to the river Prosen, and on the east and north-east to the Southesk river. The above mountain-range ex- tends in an irregular form nearly the whole length of the parish, forming its boundary on the south-west. Opposite to this is a simi- lar range of mountains, but in general of greater elevation ; extend- ing the whole length of the united parish, and forming its boundary on the north-east. The elevation of these mountains above the level of the sea varies from 1500 to upwards of 3000 feet. Their height is gradually increased, as they extend towards the north- west. Between these two mountain ranges are situated the valleys of Wateresk and Clova, through which the waters of the Esk slowly descend in their beautifully winding course. The appear- ance of the valley of Clova is very striking and beautiful. The mountains by which it is surrounded are steep and majestic. They are partly of a conical shape. In some places, they exhibit bold and dangerous rocky precipices ; but in general, they are covered in summer, even to their summits, with various kinds of grass, which afford excellent pasture both for sheep and cattle. The valley of Clova is divided on the north by a high mountain into two detiles or glens, — the one extending in a south-west, the other in a north- 436 FORFARSHIRE. west direction ; from these defiles, the appearance of the sur- rounding mountains, for height and grandeur, can scarcely be sur- passed by any mountain scenery in the Highlands of Scotland. The temperature of the atmosphere, owing to the surrounding high mountains, is frequently of considerable humidity, especially in the northern district of the parish. Hydrography. — The united parish is most abundantly supplied with springs. Of these, some are intermittent, but the greater number are perennial. Some of their waters are strongly chaly- beate, the rest are pure and of excellent quality. There are three lakes or lochs in the united parish, namely, Wharral, Brany, and Esk. Loch Wharral is situated in the bosom of the mountain range, which forms the north-east boundary of the parish, about seven miles to the north of the church of Cortachy, and upwards of 1000 feet above the level of the valley of the Esk. It is fiilly a mile in circumference. In several parts, its depth is very consi- derable. It is surrounded by mountainous summits, except on the south side, where its superabundant waters descend into the river Esk. Loch Brany in Clova is situated about two miles to the north-west of Loch Wharral, on the side of the same mountain range, and about the same elevation. It is about a mile and a- half in circumference, and of great depth in several places. The lofty summits of the surrounding mountains, with their rocky and dangerous precipices, give to the whole landscape a wild and ter- rific appearance. Loch Esk is situated amongst the mountains, about six miles to the north-west of the valley of Clova. It is about half a mile in circumference. It is in no part of great depth. The surrounding mountain-scenery, although very exten- sive, has little in it very striking or grand. The only river in the united parish is the South Esk. Although Loch Esk is generally understood to be its source, and affords it a constant supply of water, there are several mountain streams from a still higher ele- vation, and considerably larger than that from the loch, particu- larly the stream of Falfearnie, which may be properly regarded as the source of this river. The waters of the Esk have a rapid descent from the mountains over a rocky channel, until they reach the valley of Clova, where they are joined by the White Water, a very considerable stream, formed amongst the mountains sur- rounding the defile to the south-west of the valley. The South- esk river, in its course through Clova and Cortachy, receives many tributary mountain streams. In general it runs very slowly, in a very winding channel, and in a south-east direction. Its course CORTACHT AND CLOVA. 437 through tbe parish is upwards of twenty miles id length, and it falls into the Grerman Ocean at Montrose. CoMeade* — The only waterfall on the Southesk river deserving of notice may be seen about a mile to tbe southward of Locheski near to the shooting-lodge of Bachnagairn. The fall is upwards of 60 feet. The narrow channel of the river beside it, formed by high perpendicular rocks, and the surrounding grounds covered with trees, partly indigenous and partly planted, give to the place t truly picturesque appearance. Geology. — The rocks consist of red sandstone and pudding- itooe, serpentine, whinstone, mica-schist, gneiss, clay-slate, quartz, ind granite. Serpentine is well seen at the bridge of Cortachy, where it crosses the Esk, and cuts through a portion of the old red sandstone formations, in the same manner as the many trap dikes of this county. Its course is north-east and south-west It is seen again in a ravine on the cavity, near the farm of the Bal- kch, where its relation to the red sandstone, and a pudding-stone eontaining quartz pebbles, are still more clearly exhibited. The serpentine is sometimes of an olive-green, sometimes of a dark- green or blue colour, and traversed by innumerable veins of asbes- tos. The surface has generally a glazed appearance. In some places much greenish bronze-coloured diallage is intermixed. The whole mass of serpentine is not stratified, but is schistose on the great scale, dividing with some degree of regularity into slabs or flattish masses, which are parallel to the sides of the dike. These slabs have wedge-shaped terminations.* The dip of the red and gray sandstone is generally to the south. A remarkable exception occurs, however, at a short distance above the bridge of Cortachy, where tlie beds dip to the north ; but in this case they form part of a mass of which the stratification in general is vertical. Lime- stone has also been found in various places, parlicularly in Clova, on the side of the mountain towards the south-east part of the valley. This limestone is subordinate to the mica-schistic forma- tion, and is similarly stratified. Some of the limestone has been quarried, burnt with peat, and used as manure. Although part of it when burnt was found to contain a considerable quantity of sand, yet other portions of it, taken from a greater depth in the rock, when burnt, proved to be of good quality. The burning of limestone here has hitherto been very partially attempted, the dif- ficulty of access to the quarry, and the labour and expense attend- * See a paper by Charles Lyell, Jun. Esq. of Kinordy. — Brewster's Edinburgh Journal of Science, Vol. iii. * >? rOKrAR>H]RE. V • « • ■ • % T;wf-- •••■ .'.X . • -.c ::c :\\\>ssxT\ qiianiities of peat or coal, seem to ' .- ' ,,*-..\v> :/ :::i Iv.r^ iD.-^re generally prepared, ■^ :* ibe >ou:h part of Cor- r-rre i* a large vein of •..;.-.:. * v-.x;^:- : :.;: -io slates are so ^iiSrte:: \Ali\e to de- '• *;:..:Kc \ ::,k\ iT^aterexer- .V » * rrocurcffood :»:»»L' » *fc "^^^ t . •!•?* .tjL ;■*, .. ::it iiii :ed pari*b. A 5 sharp gravel, 'aZ^ and in other 1: :be^outhern :t r-wLTr/.v of clav •..:!>;..- On the " m .- 1 •»** •• — • •.♦ • &• > • •« ax .— . ^- «. • *• » t » • % \J. CORTACHY AND CLOVA. 439 Adders and lizards are frequently seen on the mountains, and KHoe of them of large size. Fishes. — The three lochs in the parish contain trout. Trout ire numerous in that portion of the river Esk which passes through Clo?tand Cortachy ; many of them are large in size, and of good quality. The largest get the name of loch trout, known from their eoloor and shape to have come from Loch Esk. Sea trout are I often caught in the river here during summer. Very few salmon tre seen before the middle of September, when the fisheries in the lower parts of the river close ; towards the end of September, and in October, several of them come up for spawning on the banks of gmvel along the channel of the river, and return to the sea in No* Member and December. The pearl muscle is to be found in various places along the diannel of the river, but it is seldom sought after, the pearl it ^otains being small in size, and of little value. Botany, — The mountains of the united parish, especially those of Clova, are highly celebrated for the great number and variety of plants which they produce. On them, almost all those plants which are common to such districts are not only found, but also many of the rarer species, and several which have not been disco- vered (as far as is known) in any other district of Scotland. There are few places to which the botanist can repair in summer with more hope and delight, in pursuit of his favourite science, than to the glen of the Doll, on the south-west of the valley of Clova. There, on every side, he readily meets with some rare and blooming treasure. The late Mr George Don of Forfar seems to have been one of the first eminent botanists who took a particular interest in finding out the botanical treasures of Clova. For this purpose he spent not only a few days, but some weeks for several successive summers, amid the flowers and the solitude of the glens. Since Mr Don's death, the mountains of Clova have been visited by many of the most distinguished botanists of Britain. They were frequently visited by the late Mr Drummond of Forfar, who discovered some new plants there. They have been frequently visited by Dr Graham, Professor of Botany in the University of Edinburgh, and by many young gentlemen, botanical students, who accompanied him. They have been visited by Sir W. J. Hooker, Professor of Botany in the University of Glasgow ; by Dr R. K. Greville, Edinburgh, and by Mr Macnab of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh, &c. 440 FORFARSHIRE. The following are some of the rarer plants which are to be found on the mountains of Clova : Avenm alpinm Uieracium amplezicaule Junciu tenuis Phleum Micbelii PoteoUlla trideatata Ranunculus alpestris Salix angustifidia ~— glauca Savifraga pedatifida Lychnis aipina Sonchus alpinus Arbutus alpinus — ^ UTa-ursi Aspidium loncbitis Asalia procumbens Carez aquatilis — ^ variflora — i— pauciflora . capillaris — atrata — — « pallescens Carez puUcaris — VablU Cerastium alpinum Nivale latifolium Draba incana Rpilobium alsinifolium Equisetuna Drummondi Gnaphaliuro supinuna — aflvaticum Hieraciucn alpinuin — divaricatum Juncus gracilis — tri6dus supinus Lanaiuro maculatum Lycopodium annotinum ■ alpinum Malax is paludosa Phleum alpinum Poa aipina Polygonum Tiviparum Potentilla alpestris — opaca Pyrola media I secunda ■ rotundifolia Herbacea glauca I Taccinifulia — ^— nivalis atelfams Silene acaulis Thalictrum alpinum Vaccinium uligioosom Veronica aipina Cornus suecica Kubus chamsBmoras Sibbaldia procumbens Myosotis repens £riophorum gracile Salix rupestris Tussilago aipina Cochlearia aipina, &c. - Grasses on the pasture grounds : Where the land is good and dry, the prevailing grasses are, Anthoxardhum odoratum, different species of the Poay Festuca, Aira^ and AgrostU. Where the land is wet, the prevailing grasses are, Nardus strictOy different species of JuncuM and Carex, On the moss]f grounds, there is a considerable quan- tity of Scirpus ccBspitosuSf EriopJwrum vaginatumy and anguUifo^ Hum. Hypnum^ Lychnis, and Carex are common on the tops of the mountains.* Plantations, — There are several plantations in the united pa- rish, which have been for the most part formed in the course of the last twenty-seven years. Some of these plantations are in mountainous districts. One of the largest thus situated contains about 500 acres, and another about 150 acres. The other planta- tions are generally situated in the lower grounds, particularly along the banks of the South Esk and Prosen rivers. These planta- tions are all thriving very well. They are already useful in many respects, and give a new and highly improved appearance to the rural scenery. The trees which have been planted in the moun- tainous districts are larch, spruce, and Scotch fir. The lower grounds are planted with oak and various other kinds of hard-wood, together with a mixture of larch and other firs. In the grounds around the Castle of Cortachy, there are a great many fine tall trees, upwards of one hundred years old, consisting of various kinds, * See Don*s account of the native plants in the alpine district of Angus-shire, in the appendix to Headrick*s View of the Agriculture of the County of Forfar. CORTACHY AND CLOVA. 441 n ashy elm, plane, larch, beech, spruce, limes, Scotch fir, and chestouts. The following is the measurement of a few of the trees : — 1. An aih tr««^ • 87 te«t in heigbt, and 9 feet in circumference. 2. Alar«b, 79 7 & AtUTer6r, 78 74 4. AbMcfa, 75 9 5l a lime, . 62 7 e. A common fir, . 47 7. A cheMnuta .45 8 In the neighbourhood of the castle, there is a very fine old hol« Ijr hedge, nearly 400 yards in length, and from 12 to 20 feet in height. There is also a great variety of evergreens and shrubs, most of which have been planted in the course of the last twenty years. They are thriving remarkably well, and give a fine ap- pearance to the pleasure grounds; which have of late years been greatly enlarged, and highly improved. In the mountainous dis« trict near to Lochesk, in Clova, several acres of land were plant- ed, about fourteen years ago, with larch, spruce, and Scotch firs. Although the situation is high, exposed, and cold, yet the greater proportion of the larch and spruce trees have already attained a considerable height, and answer the purpose for which they were intended, as shelter for deer, — the above plantation forming part of an extensive forest for deer, in the upper districts of Clova and Glenisla, belonging to the Earl of Airlie, and Colonel the Ho- nourable Donald Ogilvy of Clova. Many lat^e old trees, chiefly ash and plane, are to be seen here and there throughout the united parish ; also natural birch, alder, mountain-ash, and hazel. The quantities of old wood found in the mossy and marshy grounds tend to show, that, in former times, trees had not only been common, but many of them of large size throughout the pa- rish. For many years, it has been known that a large oak was imbedded in a marsh near the side of the river Esk, about one mile north from Cortachv Castle. The marsh havincf been recently drained, has permitted the tree to be dug out Mr Blackadder, land-surveyor, Glammis, having been requested to examine it, reports that it is not entire, the root end of the trunk, apparently to the extent of one-third of its length, hav- ing been destroyed by fire, which had also penetrated up through its heart to the forks, where the principal limbs branch of; two of which were found lying in the position as they had fallen, and were broken over at that point. Some portions which had been most deeply submerged are in a fresh state, particularly the greater 443 FORFARSHIRE* part of tbe largest limb, wfaich may be cut up into planks. The trunk is the most decayed part, it having been a very long period since it was partially uncovered by the digging away of the peats, during which it has been exposed to the alternate action of the air and moisture. The portion of the trunk yet remaining is 13 feet in length, and girths 25 feet at its top end, and 1 8 at the other, which, from the direction of the fibres, appears to have been the smallest part of the bole. The two limbs are each 20 feet in length, — the one girths 6, and the other 9 feet; exhibit- ing in whole the skeleton of nearly 600 cubic feet of timber. But from the rotten state of the trunk, it is obvious that it is now much reduced in its girths ; and, as is the case with such trees, the butt- end, which is burned off, girths always considerably more than any other part of them. Therefore, taking that portion of the bole still remaining as not containing more than two-thirds of its original quantity of timber, and making an allowance for the smaller limbs proportioned to the average of such trees, which, although not now to be seen, have evidently existed to some extent, and may have been wasted away, or perhaps destroyed by the fire, or car- ried off at its original discovery, it is not improbable that it may have contained at one period fully 1000 cubic feet of timber. Such a tree, like some of the kind still existing in a growing state in England, may have been 1000 years old before it was burned down, and may have been long previously rotten and hollow in the heart near the ground, and have occasionally afforded shelter to the hunter or wanderer, and at last been destroyed by their fires kindled within it, as indicated by the charred portions being up through its heart, and none on its exterior. But whether this, and the other inferences as to its original size, be just or not, the visible remains excite much interest; for although there have been and still are various oaks much larger in England, yet the remains of this show it to have been the largest oak tree hitherto general- ly known to have grown in Scotland, and afford an additional proof to a few others, of the gigantic size which the native oaks had formerly attained amongst the Grampian glens, — in some of the more eastern of which, as actually obtains in this particular glen, not a shrub of them is now to be found in a growing state, the whole of the existing species having been planted.* * Mr Blackaddert and Charles Ljell, Junior, Esq. of Kinordy, in order to as- evrtain the number of years which this gigantic tree had been growing, proceeded OB the prioeiples reeomnnended by DecandoUe; when Mr Blackadder stated, that this was the largest oalL tree known to have grown in Scotland. lie had previoubly eoosuli^ Loudon*8 recent publication of tbe Arboretum Britannicum. CORTACHY AND CLOVA. 448 Id the mossy ground on the farm of Rottal, about five miles to tbe north of the castle of Cortachv, the trunk of an oak tree was dugout in Idddi It measured 43 feet in length, and 3 feet in duuneter. It was considerably decayed about the middle. The two ends were sound, and each measured about \b feet in length. The wood was thoroughly dried, and portions of it were made into beautiful pieces of furniture. II. — Civil Historv. Eminent Characters. — Family ofAirlie. — Many persons belong- ing to the Noble family of Airlie, who took an active part in the poblic transactions of the times in which they lived, as legislators ind warriors, were connected with Cortachy by birth, residence, or burial. An account of the genealogj' of this Noble family, and of nch persons belonging to it as held a prominent position in public aSaira, is considered particularly deserving of notice in a Statistical Account of this parish. The following short account has been famished to the writer by a gentleman who was possessed of the best means now attainable for acquiring correct information in re- brence to the genealogy and history of this Noble family, and whose attention has been particularly directed to these matters : Pew names claimincf a Gaelic oriirin can be so distinctiv traced to a remote period as the Noble name of Ogiivy, now represented by David, Earl of Airlie, the twenty-first in direct descent from Gilbert, (third son to Gillebrede, Maormar of Angus,) who assum- ed tbe surname of Ogiivy on obtaining, from King William the Lion, the lands so designated soon after 1 165, and who witnessed the donation of the church of Monyfode to the Abbey of Aber- brothwick, by his brother, (Gille Chriosda, the servant of Christ,) Gilchrist Maormar, or Earl of Angus, in or before 1207. Chalmers, in Caledonia, traces the progenitors of Gillebrede as Maormars of Angus prior to 939. Gillebrede was a hostage for the release of William the Lion, so called from substituting the Lion for the dragon as the national arms, in 1174, and died in 1180, leaving issue by a daughter of Cospatricus Comes, ancestor of the noble house of Dunbar and March, inter aliosy three sons, ^ Gilchrist, Earl of Angus, whose male heirs failed in 1225; % Magnus, Earl of Caithness, whose male heirs failed in 1330 ; ^ Gilbert de Ogiivy, in whose direct heir, now Earl of Airlie, is vested the male representation of these two ancient titles. Gil- bert's descendant in the fourth generation. Sir Patrick de Ogilvie, in ld09, adhered steadily to King Robert I. The lands and ba- ^y of Cortachy were acquired in 1369-70. Sixth generation, 444 FORFARSHIRE. Sir Walter Ogilvy, gheriff of Angus, fell at Graskclune in 1^4^ Seventfa generation, Sir Walter was High Treasurer of Scotland in 1425, and Treasurer of James I/s household in 1431. Eighth generation, Sir John obtained from the Crown, the lands, barony, and castle of Eroly, now Airlie, in 1458-9. Ninth generation, from Sir James, ambassador to Denmark, created Lord Ogilyy of Airlie in 1491, descended James, sixth Lord, a faithful servant to Queen Mary, and ambassador from King James V I. to Christiern IV. of Denmark, in 1596. His grandson James, Lord Ogilty of Airlie, of whom a portrait is extant in plate armour, was created in 1639, Earl of Airlie^ Baron Ogilvie of Alyth and Lintrathen, by King Charles I. in reward for his loyalty. In 1640, his cas- tles of Airlie and Porter in Glenisla were pillaged and burnt by Argyle and 5000 of his followers. In 1644, the Earl and his three sons, one of whom fell at Inverlochy, joined his cousin* german Montrose, aided materially in gaining the battle of Kil- syth, and remained true to the King and his lieutenant to the last His son, James, second Earl, after the Restoration, was a Privy- councillor, and commanded a body of cavalry ; in 1688^ joined the Viscount of Dundee, in an offer to King James, to oppose the ad- vance of the Prince of Orange, and died at an advanced age soon after 1693, when Earl David, his son, succeeded. His eldest son, James, Lord Ogilvie, being attainted for joining the Chevalier de St George in 1715, the peerage was dormant from Earl David's death in 1717, till Lord Ogilvy's demise in 1731, when it devolv- ed to his only brother, John, Earl of Airlie. His eldest son, Da- vid, Lord Ogilvy, in the generous enthusiasm of youth, joined the Chevalier at Edinburgh, in October 1745, with a regiment of 600 men, and continued true and loyal to his cause. He afterwards entered the French service, in which he obtained the rank of a lieutenant-general, was colonel of a regiment, and a knight of St Louis in 1778. His Majesty George III. was pleased to restore him to his country and estates. He was a man of great integrity ; he died at Cortachy Castle, dd March 1803, aged 7a David Lord Ogilvy being attainted for joining Prince Charles in 1745, the peerage was again dormant from the demise of his father. Earl John, in 1761, till the death of the Master of Airlie, Lord Ogil- yy's only son, in 1812. The Honourable Walter Ogilvy of Clova, then of Airlie, assumed the peerage, and after a long life of acti- vity and usefulness, died at Cortachy Castle, the 16th of April 1819, aged 86, as full of honour as of years, being succeeded by bis son the present Earl. The two lapses in the succession to the CORTACHY AND 8LOVA* 445 peerage, having placed Earl Walter^s family, as to their rank, in an undefined position, King George IV., in 1826, graciously amended it, by causing Parliament, as an act of justice, to reverse the attainders of James and David, Lords Ogiivy ; but the act to relieve all the family of Earl Waher ^^ from certain civil disabili- ties^ did not profess to be an act of restoration, the peerage never having been forfeited by Act of Parliament. Land'Ovmers. — The Right Honourable the Earl of Airlie, Liord Lieutenant of the county of Forfar, and one of the representative peers of Scotland, is sole proprietor of Cortachy, and patron uf the churches of the united parish. His Lordship's brother. Colonel the Honourable Donald Ogiivy, is sole proprietor of Clova. Parochial Registers. — There are four volumes of old parochial records. The date of their earliest entry is November 1659, and they are brought down to 1732, with the exception of the years from 1687 to 1697. They appear to have been regularly kept. They contain registers of contract of marriages, of births and bap- tisms, and give a particular account of the proceedings of the kirk^session. From these records it appears, that, at the periods when they were written, the lands of the united parish were divid- ed amongst several proprietors. There are another four volumes of parochial registers, beginning in 1747, and continued down to the present time, in reference to sessional proceedings and con- tracts of marriage. They appear to have been pretty regularly kept. The only irregularity seems to have arisen from the negli- gence of parents, in registering the births and baptisms of their children. This is a duty, to the performance of which, many pa- rents are still inattentive. Antiquities* — In the church -yard of Cortachy there are some tombstones of considerable antiquity. Two of these were placed inside the former church, and though their position was unavoida- bly altered when the church was rebuilt, they have been properly cared for : one of them, having inscribed on it various figures and letters, bears date 1616; the other, of fine stone, and the work OD it better executed, appears to be of older date. It has several figures finely engraven on it, but the inscription has become il- legible. The ruins of a religious house, called the chapel of Lethnot, are itill to be seen, about four miles to the north of the church of Cor- tachy. About half a mile to the west of the church of Clova, 446 FeUFARSHIRE. part of an old building, called the castle of Cloya, still remains. Inside the wall which is standing, there are some steps of a stair. The wall is upwards of 25 feet in height, and more than 4 feet thick, and the cement of lime with which it has been built is as hard as the stones which it keeps together. No proper account of its history is known. The traditionary report is, that it was de- stroyed in the time of Oliver Cromwell. From the site of the ruins there is an extensive view of the valley, and of the sides of the surrounding mountains. About 200 yards to the north of the church of Clova there was a mansion-house, where the proprietor of Clova occasionally resided. It has been completely removed. The boundary of the garden, which was connected with it, is mark- ed out by a row of fine old trees by which the ground is surround- ed. Mansiau'fiouse, — The only mansion-house in the united parish is the Castle of Cortachy, which has been long a favourite place of residence for the Noble family of Airlie. It is placed in a low and beautiful situation on the south side of the river Esk, and to- wards the southern extremity of Cortachy. It is not ascertained when, by whom, or for what purpose the castle was originally built. A portion of it bears the marks of great antiquity. Additions have been made to it at different times ; the latest, and one of the largest of these, was made in 1820-21, which has tended greatly to its convenience and ornament. It is a magnificent building, and af- fords ample accommodation for a large establishment The pub- lic rooms of the castle contain many excellent paintings; also many fine portraits. Among these, several portraits of former and pre- sent members of the noble family. Modem Buildings. — These are the church of Cortachy, some farm-houses, some farm-steadings, two corn-mills, and several very neat cottages. The houses are built of stone and lime, and co- vered with blue slates. In addition to the above buildings, there is a finely-built ceme- tery, belonging to the Noble family of Airlie, adjoining the church of Cortachy, which was erected at the same time that the present church was built, the family burying-ground being inside the for- mer church. In this cemetery, the bodies of several of the departed members of the family have been interred. Amongst others. Da- vid, fifth Earl of Airlie ; Walter, sixth Earl of Airlie ; also Jane, his countess, who died on the 11th of June 1818, aged 56; and also Clementina, late Countess of Airlie, whose memory will be CORTACHY ANDcCLOVA. 447 long held in grateful remembrance, who died at London, 1st Sep- tember 1835, in the 41st year of her age. Handsome monumental tablets of marble, with appropriate in- icriptionsy haTO been placed on the walls around their graves. III. — Population. In 1775^ the populntion amounted to 1233 1790, - - 1030 1800, - - 006 1811 - - 0^30 1831.' males, 419 ; females, 493 ; 912 1841, - - 867 Hie decrease in the population since the time of the former Statistical -Account, appears to have been chiefly owing to the re- moval of scjyeral families to the nearest manufacturing towns. There is no village in the united parish. llie yearly aTerage of births for the lost seven years, - 19 deaths, - - - 18 marriages, . . 7 The artnge number of persons under 15 years of age, 291 between 15 and .^K), - - 242 . 30 and 50, - 217 ^^ 50 and 70, . - 120 above 70, - - 42 Baebelors and widowers upwards of 50, 28 Unmarried women and widows upwards of 45, 35 Number of families, .178 employed in agriculture* . 124 trade, fee. . . 35 Average number of children in each family, 4 Inhabit^ houses, . « 178 Persons blind, ... 2 deaf and dumb, .1 Without arms or legs, one young woman. Habiis and Character of the People, — The people are cleanly in their habits ; their dress is becoming and comfortable ; they 6DJoy the necessaries and many of the comforts of life. As to their general character, they arc intelligent, peaceable, industrious, hospitable, satisfied with their situation and circumstances, and attentive to the outward ordinances of religion. There has been 00 smuggling for several years past ; and poaching in game is very little practised by any of the inhabitants. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy, — As there has been no actual measurement of the lands of Clova, only the probable number of acres can be stated. l4Uids cultivated or occasionally in tillage, as nearly as can be ascertained. In Cortachy, . 2540 Imp. acres. Clova, . 1000 Number of acres which have never been cultivated, and which re- main constantly in pasture, in Cortachy, . 20220 Clova, . 18000 rORFAR. G g 448 FOKFARSHIRE. Number of acres under wood, planted, in Cortachy, . 880 Imp. acres. Clova, 40 indigenous, in Cortachy, . 40 Clova, . dO in the united parish, . 990 The kinds of trees generally planted are, larch, Scots 6r, spruce, white and black American, silver 6r, Weymouth pine, pinasters, oak, elm, ash, mountain-ash, plane, beech, chestnuts, birch, alder, and shrubs. The yearly thinning and pruning of the woods are particularly attended to, and under excellent management. A report on the planting of lands on the Airlie estates, to the extent of 3000 acres, in Forfarshire and Perthshire, under the management of Mr Wil- liam Anderson, was submitted to the Highland Society of Scot- land in 1330 ; and the Society's gold medal was adjudged to the Earl of Airlie.* In no other parish has there yet been such an extent of land planted as in the parish of Cortachy, on the estates of Airlie. Renty 8fc. — The average rent of arable land in the united parish may be from 15s. to L.l. The average rent of grazing, per ox or cow, is Lfl, 10s. The average rent of pasture, for ewe or full- grown sheep for the year, is 2s. Price of Maw Produce. — The average price of barley per im- perial quarter for the last seven years, has been L.1, 7s. ; oats, per imperial quarter, L.l, 2s.; potatoes,. per boll of 32 stones, 9s.; hay, per stone, from 7d. to 8d. Live-Stock. — The cattle reared in the united parish are chiefly of the Angus breed. They are of middling size, thrive very well, and are disposed of, when two or three years old. Some of the farmers, besides the cattle which they rear, are in the habit of purchasing an additional stock in the spring markets, which they feed during summer, and dispose of in September and October, when the pastures begin to give way. The horses which are used have, for the greater part, been reared in the parish. They are of the ordinary size, well-shaped, and durable* Owing to the great extent of mountainous pasture, the farmers attend particu- larly to the rearing of sheep. There are two kinds of sheep rear- ed, the black-faced and the Cheviot breeds. Some hundreds of the former are annually bred here, but the greater number of both kinds are brought, when lambs, from Linton, Lockerby, and other markets in the south. Although sometimes kept on, until they are • Quarterly Journal of Agriculture, No. xii. February 1831. COUTACHY AN© CLOVA. 449 four, yet they are generally disposed of when three years old ; and many of them fail not to bring the highest prices in the markets. The farmers prefer the black-faced sheep for rearing. They stand the storms of winter better, and are not so expensive to keep as the Cheviots. HuAandry. — The rotation of cropping generally adopted ex- tends to five or seven years, and is as follows : — For five years, oats after grass, green crop, barley or oats with grass-seeds, grass cut, grass pastured. For seven years; two crops of corn after grass, green crop, barley or oats, with grass-seeds, and three years in grass, cut the first year, and pastured the two following years. The state of husbandry hare occurrence. For generations past, most of the farms have been transmitted from father to son ; and in every instance where the father has been removed by death, the greatest indulgence has been shown to his widow and her fatherless children. The state of farn)- buildings has of late years been much improved. Many of the farmers have good dwelling-houses and convenient steadings. On the south portion of the parish, great attention has been paid to enclosures. 450 F0RVAR8HIRE. These consist generally of stone-dikes, or of hedges composed of beech and thorn. Several substantial stone-dikes have recently been erected throughout the parish, for enclosing fields, and se- parating the arable from the pasture grounds. Many such fen- ces are still required. The great distance from markets, and from lime or marl, are the chief obstacles to agricultural improvement vrhich the farmers in the upper districts of the parish have to contend with ; besides, the crops of corn, before they are sufReiently ripened, are apt to be occasionally injured by the autumnal evening frosts which are so common in upland districts. Whilst the farmers are, in general, particularly attentive to the proper management of their sheep and cattle, as a body they are no less attentive to the proper management of the lands, which they have under a regular rotation of cropping, by draining, by enclosing, by an application of lime or marl, and an observance of that mode of farming which is considered most suitable to the dis- trict. They receive the greatest encouragement for the improve- ment of their farms, and of their live-stock, from the Noble and honourable proprietors of the parish. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the united parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : — In CJortachy. Oats, 20S6 quarters, at L.l , 2s. per quarter, . L.2299 12 Barley, 354 quarters, at L.l, 7s. per quarter, ' 477 18 Turnips and potatoes, 198 acres, at L.5 per acre, . d90 Hay, cultivated, 19,550 stones, at 7d. per stone, . 570 4 2 Hay, meadow, 5720 stones, at 4d. per stone, . 95 6 8 Pasture for 758 cows or oxen, at L.l, 10s. per head, . 1137 Pasture for 57)0 ewes or full-grown sheep, at 28. each, . 571 Wool, 605 stones (28 pound each), at 14s. per stone, . 393 Average produce of sale of wood, . 158 In Clova. Oats, 618 quarters, at L.1, 2s. per quarter. Barley, 109 quarters, at L.1, 7s. per quarter. Turnips and potatoes, 40 acres, at L.5 per acre, Hay, cultivated, 7050 stones, at 7d. per stone. Hay, meadow, 6400 stones, at 4d. per stone. Pasture for 396 cows or oxen, at L.1, 10s. each. Pasture for 7040 ewes or full-grown sheep, at 2s. each. Wool, 752 stones (28 pound each), at 14s. per stone, L.66d2 10 L.679 16 147 3 200 205 12 6 106 13 4 597 . 704 526 8 L.dl66 12 10 Total value of raw produce in the united parish, L.9798 13 8 V, — Parochial Economy. The nearest market-town is Kirriemuir, which is distant from COBTACHY AND CLOY A. 451 the people in the southern part of the parish about four miles, and from those in the northern part of it about eighteen miles. The means of communication are, the post-office at Kirriemuir, and the roads (none of which are turnpike) leading in different direc- tions to and from the parish. The alteration of the direction of some of the lines of road is a great improvement, which has been effected in the course of the last twenty years. The roads b general are of a proper breadth. They have t)een well form- ed, and are kept in a proper state of repair. The line of road leading to Strathmore extends the whole length of the inhabited portion of the united parish. Several miles of this road are now in excellent order, and the improvements which have recently been made on it will doubtless, from the good effects resulting from them, afford encouragement to all parties concerned to use their eodeaTours to render this road good, even to its northern bound- ary. There is no carriage road from Clova across the mountains to Deeside. A survey was made some years ago of a line of road to extend over the Cappel Mount. This line, (to carry which into effect, has been considered, by an experienced surveyor, quite practicable,) would afford the means of easy communication be- tween the people in this county and those in the upper districts of Aberdeenshire. Bridges. — The two principal bridges connected with the parish are those across the Southesk and Prosen rivers, — the former, near to the church of Cortachy, has only one arch. It is narrow, like most old bridges, of excellent workmanship, and romantically situ- , ated. The latter crosses the Prosen, on the line of road leading to Strathmore. It was widened some years ago, and has been substantially built. There are several smaller bridges on different lines of road throughout the parish, which are in good repair. There is also a neat suspension bridge across the Southesk river, opposite to the church of Clova, for foot-passengers, and also for horses when the ford below becomes impassable. Ecclesiastical State. — The church of Cortachy is placed nearly at the southern extremity of the parish, and consequently is not conveniently situated for the greater part of the population. It was built in 182B-29, on the site of the former church. It is an elegant building. The internal work has been very tastefully exe- cuted. It is sufficiently large, affording accommodation for 550 persons, and it is delightfully situated. It was built at the expense of the Earl of Airlie, and cost considerably upwards of L.2000. 452 FORFARSHIRE. The sittings in the church are all free, that is, the heritors receive no money for them ; they are divided amongst the farmers and the other householders in the parish. The manse was built in 1796; it was partially repaired a few years ago. It is sufficiently large and comfortable. The extent of the glebe is about ten acres, and its annual value about L.15. The amount of the stipend is 15 chalders, the one-half oatmeal, the other barley, and L.8^ 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The church of Clova is about ten miles distant from the church of Cortachy. It is not known when it was built There was a gallery erected in the west end of it in 1731 ; but, from the ap- pearance of the building, and from statements contained in the pa- rochial registers, it is probable that the church had been long built before the gallery was erected. The seats in the church of Clova were lately renewed, and the church is in good repair. It is con- veniently situated for the population of Clova, and of the northern district of Cortachy. It affords accommodation for about 250 persons. The sittings are all free, with the exception of those in the gallery, which are let for the benefit of the poor. There was a suitable and comfortable house erected in Clova about twenty-four years ago by the Noble family of Airlie, for the accommodation of a missionary minister on the Royal Bounty. That house is still kept in good repair by the present honourable proprietor of Clova. In addition to the mission house, the minis- ter receives as much arable land, free of rent, as enables him to keep a cow and pony, summer and winter. The farmers within the bounds of the mission plough his land and drive his fuel. The minister officiates alternately in the church of Clova, and in the chapel of Glenprosen, connected with the parish of Kirriemuir, besides performing among the people within the bounds of the mission all the other duties connected with the office of the holy ministry. He receives annually L. 30 from the Committee on the Royal Bounty, L.30 from the people connected with the mission, and 20 guineas from the Earl of Airlie. All the families in the united parish belong to the Established Church, with the exception of the Noble family of Airlie, the members of which are Episcopalians. There are three individuals belonging to other families who are also Episcopalians. Divine service at the churches of Cortachy and Clova is generally very well attended. The ave- rage number of communicants is about 530 ; of these about 180 communicate at Clova, and 350 at Cortachy. The average amount CORTACHY AND CLOVA. 453 of church collections annually for religious and charitable purposes maybe L.I2. £c2iioa/i(m.— There are four schools in the parish at the present time; the parochial^ and three unendowed schools. The num- ber of scholars attending them is 130. There are, besides, about 20 girls, who attend a female school, which, although not in the parish, is in its immediate neighbourhood. The unendowed schools are kept only during the winter season ; one of them is placed beside the mission house in Clova, and is taught by a young man, who is engaged and directed in his mode of teaching by the mi- nister. The number of scholars is 48^ and the branches taught are, reading, writing, and arithmetic ; the other two' unendowed schools in Cortachy are supported by the parents, or other rela- tires of the young persons who attend them. The teachers re- ceive a certain allowance in money for the time they are engaged, besides board and lodging. The number of scholars at these schools is 46 ; they are taught the ordinary branches of instruc- tiou. The parochial school, which is situated near to the south- ern extremity of the parish, is attended by 38 scholars. The branches generally taught are, reading, writing, arithmetic, Eng- lish grammar, book-keeping, geography, and Latin. The salary is the maximum, — L.34, 4s. 4d. The annual amount of school fees is about L.10. Ubrary. — There is one parochial library, which contains up- wards of 200 volumes. With the exception of some volumes of history, geography, and travels, the books consist chiefly of reli- gious publications. The library has been in a great measure sup- ported by donations of books, and of money with which to pur- chase books, from the Noble family of Airlie. Several of the books were selected and given by the late Countess of Airlie, who took a great interest in promoting the temporal and spiritual good of the young and rising generation in this parish and neighbour- hood. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving regular parochial aid is, 1 1 in Cortachy and 2 in Clova ; the sum allotted to each varies from 3s. to 12s. per month. The collections made at the church of Clova are sufficient for the re- lief of the poor in that portion of the united parish. The annual expenditure for the poor in Cortachy is about L.42. The an- nual amount of the poor's funds, on an average of the last five years, is L.dO, 16s., arising as follows : from church collections 454 FOEFARSUIRE. and mortcloth dues, L.42, 16s. ; iDterest of money in the bank^ L.4, 10s. ; interest of mortified money, L.4k The amount of mortified money is L.100, which waa left by the late Mr Alex- ander Robie at Inveriskandy, who was a native of, and a farmer in, this parish ; the interest of this sum, according to directions left by the donor, is annually distributed amongst the poor be- longing to a certain district of the parish ; the minister and dders of the parish, and the heads of &milies in the specified district are appoipted trustees. The wants and comfort of the poor are particularly attended to by the Noble family of Airlie. The. dis- position among the poor in general to refrain from seeking paro- chial relief is very powerful. Fairs. — There are two sheep-markets held annually at Cor- tachy, commonly called the Collow markets, as they are held in the immediate neighbourhood of a farm of that name. The first established of these markets is held on the fourth Monday of Oc- tober, and has become one of the best sheep markets in the north of Scotland, both for the number and quality of the sheep which are there exposed ; the number being on an average from 8000 to 12,000. The sheep brought to this market are generally three or four years old, and are purchased by proprietors or farmers in this and the adjoining counties, who feed them ofi* during the winter with turnips and hay or straw. The latest established of these markets is held on the last Friday of April. The stock exhibited consists chiefly of hogs, or one year old sheep, and as it is much approved of by the store-farmers in this district, it has been, and will, doobtless, continue to be, well supported. The grounds where the above markets are held, are not only most conveniently situated for the flocks as they descend from the mountains, but ample space is afforded for their convenience, and for preventing them, when properly attended to, from mixing together. Inns, Alehouses, — There is a convenient and well kept inn at Clova, which was erected only a few years ago, and which is much frequented by travellers in summer. There are five ale-houses in Cortachy ; to reduce their number might be injurious to the support of those who keep them ; but it could not fail to be be- neficial to the morals of some of the people. Fuel. — Peat and turf are commonly used as fuel by the families in the northern districts of the parish. Peat is obtained from the mossy grounds in the hollows, either on the sides, or towards the summits of the mountains. In these hollows, the moss is almost LUNDIE AND FOWLIS. 455 iMihauslible, and of superior quality. Much time and labour are employed by the people in summer, in cutting, drying, and eoDfejing the peat to their several dwelling-places, which are ge* aemlly from two to six miles distant from the mosses. Peat and turf are partially used by most of the families in the southern part «f the parish ; they also use quantities of brushwood, which are obtained by purchase, from the woods in the parish and neigh- bourhood. Some of the families, in this part of the parish, make oie of coals chiefly for fuel. The coals are brought either from Dundee, or from the depot connected with the railway at Newtyle. Several of the iarmers have been in the practice, for some years pst, of bringing home a certain quantity of coals during summer, to be used as fuel in winter. This is a wise provision, although, ia ordinary dry seasons, peat may be safely got home, and makes very good fuel; yet, when the. summers are unusually rainy, it is. not suflSriently dried to be fit for burning, which is the cause of no ordinary suffering to those families which depend entirely on peat for fuel during the winter. It is highly probable, that coals vill soon be more generally used for fuel than they have hitherto been in the parish. September 1842. PARISH OF LUNDIE AND FOWLIS. PR£6BTTBRr OF DUNDEE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARN9. THE REV. THOMAS IRVINE, MINISTER. LuMDiE and Fowlis have long been united into one parish. In the former Statistical report, the union is said to have been effect- ed by decree of the High Commission in 1618. But as they are situated in different counties, as each maintains its church, its own school, and its own poor, and as they are in the hands of dif- ferent proprietors, and differ much in their situation and aspect, it may be advisable, to a certain extent, to describe them sepa- rately. LuNDiE — County of Forfar. I.— Topography and Natural History. Boundaries. — Lundie lies at the head of the valley of the Dighty^ 4S6 rOZFAXSHIMC 9Di n bMBkded oa tbe m^arm bw ute ^adiaw kflh, vluck dmde it fnxD KHfif asd Xrvnie : am i\tt cao, br Aiicfatcfln«» ; wad OD the sKidi and wax, b; Fovm. Ii » abost 3 mOes in lei^gtli, aad 2 is brcadili. Ob tW west, noniiy and eatty it is enoomps*- fed by liilb^ and tW boandary line rans aloog tbe ridge, except the (arm of LedcrieC the imy c iti of Lord D. G. HaJlTburton, vhich lies to the oorth, and rums do«« to the waller of Strath- nore. The oeotfe of the parish, Lovever, is not hSl j, though it swelk oot into beautiful imdulatinas ; and it is difer^fied by se- Teral lakesu There is stiD a want of wood, and veie this sup- plied, the natural features of the district, vhidi are excellent, would appear to mocfa more advantage. The cultivated part of the parish averatges 550 feet above the sea, fircNn which it is distant sixteeo miles, and from the Frith of Taj seven miles. The Sid- law hills rise about 300 feet higher, and at their base is a chain of four lakes s^ ^ considerable extent, though much lessened by draining, from which the Dighty vrater takes its rise in two streams, which unite in the parish of Auchterfaouse, three miles below. The whole of the parish is arable, except the sides of the Sidlaw hills, which are healthy pasture. The climate is still moist, though very much improved of late by draining. The quantity of rain is rather above the average from the proximity of the hills which at- tract the clouds, from the large valley that lies beyond. The heat is comparatively great in summer in reference to the elevation, in consequence of reflection from the higher ground, which also serves to defend the valley from the currents of air. The winter i» necessarily cold, but the air is pure, and generally free from hoar frost, and the inhabitants are healthy, and several instances occur of their attaining great age. Tbe four lochs above-mentioned abound in perch, pike, and eels. Lundie loch formerly covered at least 100 acres, but it was to a great extent drained about thirty years ago, by a tun- nel of 417 yards in length, and it now covers only eight acres. A considerable quantity of marl was found, and tbe land reclaim- ed is valuable. Tbe Long Locb is about half-a-mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad. Pitlyal Loch and the Loch of Balshan- die are of much smaller extent. The Balshandie and Lundie lochs give rise to the western, and tbe Long and Pitlyal lochs to the eastern branch of the Dighty water, already mentioned, which, of course, is here but a small streamlet. The soil, from the variety of surface in the parish, is necessarily LUNDIE AND FOWLIS. 457 Various. For the most part, however, it is .a deep, free, black soil, capable of raising all kinds of crop, though, from the elevation, wheat 18 sown but sparingly. On the higher grounds, it is thin ^apd sharp, and in the low grounds large tracts of marshy land, formerly a nuisance, and now of great value, have lately been re- elaimed by draining. This has had the double effect of adding con- liderably to the extent of cultivation, and of improving the surround- ing district by its favourable influence on the climate, which is thus rendered earlier, and lessjiable to mildew. Few parishes have made more rapid progress than this during the last twenty years, and, in point of draining, enclosing, and farm-steadings, — these great essentials in agriculture, — it will compare advantageously with dis- tricts more favoured bv nature. At least 100 acres more will ere long be put with profit under the plough. Mineralogy. — The district affords nothing particularly attrac- tive to the mineralogist. In the lower part, the common gray freestone prevails, and the surrounding hills arc mostly trap, resting on freestone, confirming the idea generally adopted, thai they have been thrown up from beneath by the action of fire. — The zoologist will find all the animals common to such a district, with one addition somewhat rare, namely, a beauti- ful and powerful game hawk that frequents the Crag of Lundic, and breeds there. This splendid bird, however, is not likely to be long a denizen, as he is sadly out of favour with the game- keepers. II. — Civil History. Land-owners. — The whole parish belongs to the ancient family of Duncan of Lundie, now the noble family of Camperdown, ex- cept one small farm — LedcriefF, lying to the north of the Sidlaw hills, which belongs to Lord Douglas Gordon Hallyburton, M. P. for the county, and brother of the present Marquis of Iluntly.* Eminent Men. — Admiral Lord Viscount Duncan. — The name of this eminent individual is familiar to evcrv reader of British History, and his connexion with the parish of Lundic is, that his parents generally resided at Lundie Castle, in the parish ; that during his life he was almost sole proprietor, and that he is buri- ed in the family burying place in this church-yard. He was born in Dundee on the 14th July 1731. His father was Alexander Duncan, Esq. of Lundie. His mother was the heiress of Glen- * 1842. Now succeeded by his ncplicw, Lord John Frederick Gordoiii third son uf the Marijuis of lluntly. 458 FORFARSHIRE. eagles, lo Perthshire, lineally descended from Duncan Earl of Lennox, and in consequence of this connection, the valuable estates of the Gleneagles family now belong to the Earl of Cam* perdown. Admiral Duncan entered the naval service under Cap- tain Robert Haldane, his relative, but was soon removed to the ship of Captain, afterwards Lord Keppel, under whom be rose from midshipman to post-captain, to which rank he was promoted in 1763. After signalizing himself under Keppel, at the Havan- nah, where he was wounded, under Rodney at Cape St Vincent, and under Lord Howe in 1782, where in the Blenheim of ninety guns he led the larboard divisions of the fleet against the combin- ed fleets of France and Spain, he was promoted to the rank of Rear- Admiral of the Blue in 1787 ; and on the breaking out of the Revolutionary war in 1 794, he was appointed by Earl Spencer to the command of the North Sea fleet. At this period, a large Dutch fleet was collected in the Texel, for the purpose of co-operating with General Hoche, who was waiting the first opportunity of invading Ireland with 40,000 men. During the arduous and anxious service of watching the motions of this formidable armament, the mutiny of the Nore occurred, and gave rise to ^hat will long be remembered as the most criti- cal period of British naval history. Though surrounded with a general spirit of determined insubordination, which first commen- ced in the channel fleet at Spithead, Admiral Duncan, by his per- sonal intrepidity, combined with the influence of his character among all classes, succeeded in quelling the mutiny in the Vene- rable, which bore his flag ; and, deserted though he was by every ship in the fleet except the Adamant, adopted the daring but suc- cessful expedient of blockading the passage from the Texel with the two ships, practising, from time to time, the ruse of making sig- nals, as if his fleet had been in sight, instead of lying ingloriously inactive in the power of mutineers. This stratagem could not have lasted long, but it served his purpose till some of his misguid- ed fleet joined him ; and it was his determined and declared reso- lution never to quit his post, nor permit the Dutch fleet to pass the narrow channel which he occupied, without the most determined resistance. On one occasion, information was brought to the Ad- miral by one of his ofiicers, that the whole of the enemy's fleet was in motion to force the passage, thus intimating, no doubt, that his only safety was in flight. Instead of answering, he ordered the lead to be hove, and, on hearing the depth of water, calmly re- LUNDIB AND FOWL1S. 459 plied, '* Then when they have sunk us, my flag will still fly/' It would be difficult to estimate sufficiently the efiect of such steady and intrepid conduct on the part of the admiral of the fleet, or of the dignified composure with which he bore a misfortune snch as had never befollen a British Admiral in the sight of an enemy. At length the deluded men returned to their duty, and not long after, an opportunity was afibrded them of wiping off the memory of their defection, in the triumphant battle of Cam- perdown. The Admiral's ship had been eighteen weeks at sea, and ■ereral others had suffered much from recent gales, and were also in need of provisions and repairs. Thus circumstanced, the Admiral put into Yarmouth roads on the 3d October 1797, tore- 6t and revictual, leaving a squadron of observation on the Dutch coast. On the 9th, information reached him that the enemy's fleet, was at sea. On the 1 1th, at noon, he brought them to close action, off Camperdown, as they were seeking to regain the port, and of the sixteen sail of the lino with which the Dutch Admiral began the fight, nine, including the Admiral and Vice- Admiral's ships, and two frigates, became the reward of a very gallant and bard-fought action on a lee shore and an enemy's coast, and with a fleet, every ship of which, except two, had lately been in open mutiny. This important and seasonable victory was duly appreciated by the Sovereign and the nation. A patent of Baron of the United Kingdom had already been made out, though not signed, for his intrepid conduct, and eminent services during the mutiny at the Nore ; but his title was now changed to that of Viscount, and he received the thanks of both Houses of Parliament, and presents and addresses from many places, amongst others the freedom of the city of London, and a sword of two hundred guineas value, and, with expressed reference to this victory, his son was raised to the rank of Earl, under the title of Camperdown, at the corona- tion of •William IV., who was an intimate acquaintance and great admirer of Admiral Lord Duncan. After the victory he survived nearly seven years, and died sud- denly on the 4th August 1804, at Cornhill, on his way to Scot- land. His remains are interred in this churchyard, in the family hurying-place, and the spot is, at his own request, marked by a plain marble slab, bearing this inscription, written by himself, '* Adam, first Viscount Duncan, Admiral of the White Squadron 460 FORFARSHIRE, of his Majesty King George the Third's fleet, born 14th July 1731, and died 4th August 1804." His Lordship married Hen- rietta, daughter of the Lord President Dundas, by whom he had a large family, and his estates and honours are inherited by his son, Robert, the present Earl of Camperdown, who, as already men- tioned, is almost sole proprietor of the parish, under whose judi- cious management it is rapidly increasing in value and beauty. In a handsome mausoleum adjoining the church are also inter- red Sir William Duncan, Bart., M. D., a cadet of the Lundie fa- mily, and Lady Mary Tufton, daughter of. Sackville, Earl of Thanet, his wife. Sir William was bred a physician, and prac- tised for some time in London, where he captivated the affections of the lady who afterwards became bis wife. Soon after their marriage, they went to the East Indies, wherd Sir William realiz- ed a large fortune, with which he returned to London and lived in great splendour, and enjoyed the honorary distinction of Physician to the King. On his death, which occurred in 1789, Lady Mary caused the mausoleum to be built for him here, and left orders for her own remains being laid beside her husband, she survived him several years, but they left no family. FowLis — County of Perth. I. — Topography and Natural History. The parish of Fowl is, sometimes called Fowlis Easter, to distin- guish it from Fowlis Wester, in the neighbourhood of Crieff and in thesame county, lies south from Lundie, commencing at the summit of the Braes of the Carse of Gowrie, and sloping gently downwards till it terminates at Benvie, in the level of the Carse. It is bounded on the norti), by Lundie; on the east, by Liff; on the south, by Ben- vie united to Liff; and on the west, by Benvie and Longforgan. Its length may average 3 miles, and its breadth 1^ mile. The land is generally of the best quality; the exposure, as men- tioned, to the south, and the slope gentle. It commands i^beauti- ful view of the Carse of Gowrie, near the eastern extremity of which it lies, — of the Frith of Tay, and of the opposite shores of Fife, and thus, in point of situation, of soil, of natural beauty, and of command of rich and varied scenery in every direction, few places can excel it. It was long the family residence of the noble family of Gray, afterwards of the Murrays of Fowlis, now of Ochtertyre. But it has been forsaken for the latter place, I.UNDIE AND FOWLIS. 461 and what remains of the Castle of Fowlis, their former residence, is now in a ruinous state, and inhabited by a few families of the poorest description. The parish contains 234S acres, of which 1493 are arable, 160 wood, 260 good pasture, 264 moorland, the rest gardens, roads, &C. It is better supplied with hedge-row trees than Lundic, there is still a want of wood, though the land is admirably adapted for the growth of it, in proof of which it may be mentioned, that, a few years ago, four ash trees that stood near the old castle, sold by public sale for more than L.80. There is only one hill in the parish, the Blacklaw, and that scarcely worth mentioning for its elevation, though it commands a beautiful and very extensive prospect. Formerly, there was a lake in the upper part of the parish, of coDsiderable extent, called the Piper dam, from a traditionary story that a piper was drowned in it. But it was drained for the sake of marl more than sixty years ago, and nearly all that remains of it b now a reedy marsh, famous for the quantity of wild water fowl that frequent it at all seasons of the year, more especially in the winter. It still, however, serves as a reservoir for regulating the supply of water for a meal-mill, a wool-mill, and several thrashing* mills on the small stream that issues from it, and falls into the Frith of Tay at Invergowric. Since the prices of grain have so much declined, a considerable quantity of land formerly under the plough has been thrown into grass, and, under present circumstances, there is little prospect of its being taken up, as it affords profitable pasturage, being well watered and enclosed. The climate of Fowlis is excellent. The quantity of rain is ra- ther below the average, owing to the showers from the west being attracted from it by the Sidlaw hills on the north, and the Frith of Tay on the south. The district is very healthy, and presents many instances of persons attaining a great age. The whole pa- rish abounds with gray freestone of the very best quality for every purpose, but affords few other mineralogical specimens. The den of Fowlis, a beautiful and romantic wooded ravine stretching southwards, a mile from the church, is a favourite resort of bo- tanists, not that it is known to afford any specimens nowhere else to be found, but because it presents many that arc rather rare, in great perfection ; and affords a greater variety than is usually found in so limited a spot. 462 FORFARSHIRE. 11. — Civil History. Previous to 1877 Fowlis was in possession of the Mortimer ik- mily. At that time this baroDy passed into the family of Grray, in consequence (as appears from a charter of this date) of the marriage of Sir Andrew Gray of Broxmouth with Janet, daughter of Sir Roger Mortimer. From the Grays it came by sale into the possession of the Murrays of Ochtertyre, where it remains, and the present Sir William Keith Murray is sole proprietor. The burial- place of the Noble family of Gray, however, is still in the east end of the church, and the part that is appropriated to this pur* pose has lately been fitted up in ttie most gorgeous style of Gro- thic architecture. The writer of this notice has no means of as- certaining the exact time of this being first used as the burial-place of the Grays, nor the individual members of this £Bunily that lie there. Parochial Registers. — Respecting the parochial registers of Lundie and Fowlis, it may suffice to state, that they began at a very early period, 1667, and are kept together till 1701 ; but dur* ing this period many blanks occur, and for some of them apologies are inserted at the time. Since 1701, each district of the parish has had its own register, and they are pretty correct About eight years ago a register of deaths was added to those preriously in use ; but a perfectly accurate set of registers will never be had till there be a compulsory enactment, as there are still many pa- rents who are backward in intimating the births of the children. We shall now notice the two districts of the parish jointly. TIL — Population. The population of the united parish, though wholly agricultu- ral, has fluctuated considerably, both in its amount, and in the re- lative proportions of the districts. In 1755, the united parish contained . . 566 inhabitants. 1790, Lundie, 334 . Fowlis, 314 = 648 1821, . 401 . 408 =» 809 1831, 456 322 = 778 1837, . 450 . 271 = 721* 1841, 448 286 = 734 No. offiunilies, 86 . 54 =» 140 Births from 1830 to 1835, inclusive, 78 57 b 135 Deaths same period, 28 . 21 =s 49 It thus appears, that, during the last flfty years, Lundie has gained considerably in numbers, and that Fowlis, after gaining for * This oensus was taken in the very middle of winter, when the population it ht- low the average of the vear. At that season many tradesmen and labourers retire to towns for better employment LUNDIB AND FOWLIS. A'\il a while, has fallen off. But both the one and the other can be satisfactorily accounted for. Both districts of the parish are wholly agriculturali and the fluctuation in the popuhition depends ^D the greater or smaller number employed on the cultivation of the soiL Now Fowlis was one of those places where agricultural improvements took place at an early period, and it wiis long what is termed a grain district, requiring, of course, at all seasions of the year, many labourers. Of late the fall in the price of grain, and the comparative increase in the price of cattle, have caused a change in the mode of management, and a much greater propor- tion of grass, and thus considerably fewer hands work the farms, and the labourers, no longer employed, have removed elsewhere, and hence the decrease. In Lundie, again, from the extensive existence of liferent leases, and other causes at an earlier period, improvement was late in commencing. Recently, it has gone on with much spirit ; — a great demand has existed for manual labour, and hence the population has increased. Like most districts of Scotland, where the population is wholly agricultural, the people are quiet, orderly, and religious, generally contented with their situation and circumstances, which are steadi- ly improving, and happily free to a great extent from tiic spirit of discontent, and the habits of low debauchery which threaten to uproot society in most of our large towns and manufacturing viU lages. In many instances the inhabitants show a strong attach- ment to the place ; and some families, both of farmers and cot- tars, can trace an unbroken connection with Lundie for more than two hundred years. There are no resident proprietors, nor any prospect of their be- coming such. Nor are we aware of any great change in the con- dition of the parish likely soon to arise, unless advantage shall be taken of some waterfalls in both districts to introduce m^ufac- tures. But to this all concerned seem at present to have a well- founded aversion. IV. — Industry. Rent — The valued rent of Lundie is L.1540, and of Fowlis, L.1640; total, L.3180. The real rent of the former, about Li2400, and of the latter, L.dlOO;* total L.5500. This is about the present average; but the exact sum fluctuates, owing to the rent being in part or wholly regulated by the price of grain. * A few years ago the rpntal of Fowlis was I. .4 500. Tlie decrease arises from i;rain rents. FORFAR. II h 464 FORFABSHIRE. Tbe average rent of arable land io Lundie is from L.I to h. If 14s., aod in Fowlis from L. 1 to L.d. Lundie is divided into eighteen farms, from L.40 to L.dOO of yearly rent ; Fowlis into nine, besides several pendicles, varying from L.100 to L.800. Live-stock. — In this quarter the attention of the fiirmer is about equally divided between breeding and feeding black cattle, with a few sheep where they have hill pasture, and of late to a small extent on the low grounds. The breed is generallythe native Angus, which is hardy, and feeds well. For some years back, a disposition has been shown to cross with the Teeswater or Ayrshire, and, to a smaller extent, to cultivate these breeds pure. Tbe former gives a larger bone, and earlier maturity ; the latter is meant to increase the quantity of milk. The number of cows in Lundie is about 120 ; in Fowlis, 93; and about 130 calves are reared every year in the former district of the parish, very few at present in the latter. About 113 work-horses in Lundie, and 56 in Fowlis, are employ* ed daily ; and saddle and young horses may amount to 20 more in each district. The number of sheep varies exceedingly, as seve- ral of the hills, (if such they are to be called,) are kept entirely for winter pasture, and let to the farmers among the Grampians, who remove their stock down during the winter storms. The others cultivate the black-faced generally. Of late the Cheviot is gain- ing ground ; and on the arable land the Leicester breed is pre- ferred. Swine are not kept to the extent they deserve, — scarcely in sufficient quantities for home consumption. One farmer in Lundie, and another in Fowlis, cultivate the dairy husbandry in preference to breeding and feeding, and carry their milk and but- ter to the Dundee market. At present it pays well ; and the one keeps about 20 and the other about 40 milch cows. Husbandry. — It is not necessary to enter into a minute detail of the state of husbandry, or the amount of annual produce, for so small a district, the more especially as it differs little in these re- spects from the neighbouring parishes. It may suffice to state, in general terms, that the most approved modes of husbandry are in general use ; that both districts of the parish are, for the most part, thoroughly drained, generally enclosed with excellent stone walls, and well accommodated with farm-steadings ; and that one far- mer* has introduced the subsoil plough invented by Mr Smith of Deanston, an example which others will no doubt soon follow. In Fowlis all kinds of grain are grown in great perfection, and in the usual proportions. In Lundie wheat is sparingly sown, on account • Mr Alexander Smith, Westiir Kciili. LUNDIE AND KOWLIS. 4fi5 of the elevation. Oats and barley thrive well ; and both districts jieM the most abundant green crops, which are largely cultivated, to the entire exclusion of summer fallow, which is now scarcely seen* There is, however, on account of the elevation of Luiidic, a difference of about six days in the time of commencing harvest. Formerly it was much more; but drainage, improved general farm- ing, and better seed have done much to lessen it. The usual rotation of cropping is what is called fives, that is, oats, green crop, wheat, barley, or oats, according to circumstan* ees, and two years grass, the first year partly cut for hay. It has been already stated, that the parish is wholly agricultu- ral, and of course it includes only the tradesmen necessary for the service of the inhabitants. Of these it has a fair supply. Nor is it necessary to make an exception of the very few who act as la- bourers during the summer, and employ the winter in weaving for the Dundee manufacturers ; or of the females, who have a loom in their cottage, to which they betake themselves when out-door labour is scarce. This is on so limited a scale, that it is not worthy of farther notice. V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market-town, and not even a village in the parish. The nearest is Cupar- Angus, distant six miles. But Dundee, though distant from Lundie nine miles, and from Fowlis six miles, is the market-town, both for buying and selling ; and for cither purpose it is one of the best in the kingdom. The Dundee and Cupar- Angus turnpike intersects the parish, and affords an excel- lent communiciition with both towns ; and Fowlis is approached on the south by the Qirse of Gowrie turnpike, from which it is a little more than a mile distant. The parish roads are deserving of no commendation. They are by far too numerous, especially in Lundie, and the lines not well chosen ; but Lord Camperdown and his tenants have for some vcars subscribed liberallv for their improvement, and they will soon be in a better condition. No- thing, however, has yet been done to supply the want of a post- oflSce. Dundee is the post-town, and a distance of nine miles is a great inconvenience. Ecclesiastical State, — Contrary to the custom in lowland, and, more es|>ecially, in small parishes, there are two churches in this, each very conveniently situated for the district of the parish where it stands, and from which it takes its name, but neither of them convenient for serving the whole parish. They are distant from one another four miles, and in them the incumbent preaches on 466 FORFARSHIRE. alternate Sabbaths, and the parishioners of Liundie generally go to Fowlis ; but, having the church of Liff within the fourth part of the distance, few of the inhabitants of Fowlis frequent the church of Lundie. Lundie church is plain but comfortable, of considerable antiquity, but well repaired about forty years ago, and capable of containing about 330 sitters. The church of Fowlis, however, is a structure of extraordinary antiquity. The tradition of the neighbourhood is, that it was built, under a vow, by a lady of the Mortimer family, during the crusades in 1142, **in case her husband should return in safety from the holy wars ;" and this date is stated in the former Statis- tical Report to be there legible on a beam that had apparently supported the organ gallery. In that work, however, the erection is ascribed to the Grays, though the estate, as already noticed, did not come into the power of that family for more than 200 years after. The church is of the purest Saxon-Gothic architecture, 88 feet 6 inches in length, and 28 feet in breadth, built of polished ashler, and so excellent in the quality of the material, that on al- most every stone you can plainly see the private marks of the hewer. In the east, is a beautiful oriel window ; and in the west, a large pointed Gothic one. The doors have the round arch without any ornament, except the west door, which has carving over it, and is highly ornamented. Within the doors are the fonts for holy water, quite entire ; but a large baptismal font, of beautiful workmanship, with many emblematical figures, is sadly dilapidated. The whole of the upper part of the screen, that se- parates the church from Lord Gray's burial-place, is covered with paintings on oak, evidently of great antiquity, though of no great merit as works of art. They represent the crucifixion, the flight into Egypt, the Apostles^ and the Holy Family in various circum- stances. It is extremely to be regretted that so little is known of a building that has stood so long, and that is still as entire as ever; at least I have not found anything satisfactory stated respecting it in any book to which I have had access. This very imperfect notice of it, however, may direct towards it the attention of some antiquary capable of rescuing it from unme- rited obscurity. It is regarded by professional men as a gem in architecture ; and its history as a religious fabric may also be well worthy of attention, if the means existed for clearing it up. At present it is internally in a sadly ruinous condition ; but were it new- seated, and the pulpit placed in the west end, it would be a LUNDIR AND FOWLIS. 467 very comfortable church, capable of being made to accommodate between 300 and 400.* The maDse* which is at Lundie, was built in 1797, and is small and incoDTenient. An excellent set ofoffices was built in 1830. The glebe contains six acres of good land. The teinds are valued and exhausted ; and the stipend, L.200, is all paid in money. The Earl of Camperdown is sole patron. There are very few Dissenters in the parish, — ^not more than 30 when the census was taken last winter ; and the attendance at church is very good, especially when the distance to be travelled once a fortnight by a considerable propor- tion is taken into account The average number of communicants, 280 ; and in all extraordinary collections, whether for the Dundee Infinnary or for the schemes of Christian philanthropy now con- ducted by the General Assembly, the parish is noted for its libe- rality. These annual collections seldom fall under L.9, and often exceed it. Edueation.'^There are two public schools in the parish, one at Lundie and another at Fowlis, at which all the ordinary branches of education are taught, each having a good dwelling-house and school-house, and a rood of land, with L. 30 of salary, and the school-fees may average L.25 a-year more. The schools aro duly prized and well attended ; and, except one adult, who cannot read, and will not learn, it is not known that any are uneducated ; nor are there any so situated that they cannot profit by the means of education. There are also two Sabbath-schools in the parish, which are very well attended, not only by mere children, but by young persons, even years after they have become communicants. The means of education are at present as complete as there is reason to expect in a parish of this description, and the heritors show every disposition to encourage it. Prizes are given at both schools at the annual examination ; and in addition to the usual ones, a splendid quarto Bible is given to the best male and the best female scholar at the school of Lundie. Library. — There is a subscription library in Fowlis, of which the schoolmaster has the charge, containing 600 volumes, tolerably well chosen. The subscribers are not restricted to the parish. Perhaps nearly the half of them belong to the neighbouring pa- rishes. It is making considerable progress, though the subscrip- * 1B42. Since the above was written, this churcli has been beautifully fitted up with- in, and is now a very commodious and handsome place of worship. Excellent accom- niodations have also been erected for the minister when officiating there. 46Q FORFARSHIRE. tion is so low as 2s. a-year. The present number of subscribers is 50. Poor. — There is no assessment for the poor, the collections in the church and mortcloth dues, with a voluntary contribution from the heritors, sufficing. The church collections average about Lfo 86, pretty equally divided between the two districts of the parish ; and the number of poor receiving constant aliment fluc- tuates between three and four in each. Besides these, how- ever, several receive occasional relief. The pittance that is given is thankfully received ; and, happily, the good old Scottish feeling of independence still lingers here, as in most agricultural districts at a distance from towns or manufacturing villages. Fairs. — There are two fairs in Lundie for the sale of stock, one in June, the other in August They are not numerously attend- ed, and do not seem to be on the increase. There is one ale- house in the parish at Lundie ; and the toll-keeper at Lundie toll generally has a license. The toll-house is sometimes a nuisance. Fortunately, the other is not much frequented. Fuel. — Coal is the sole fuel, generally brought from Dundee. About a fourth part of the quantity consumed is Scotch coal, im- ported from the south coast of Fife, the rest from Newcastle or Sunderland. The expense is of course considerable. The far- mers drive their own and their cottars, and thus to the poor the expense of carriage is saved. Miscellaneous Observations. It is stated in the former statistical notice, as well as in the present, that Fowlis was one of the earliest places to adopt agri- cultural improvements, and therefore the change is not so great there as in Lundie, where they were late in being introduced. The produce of the latter, however, has at least been tripled with- in the last forty years. The tenantry are active, intelligent, industrious, and thriving; sober, church-going, and warmly at- tached to the National Church. The comforts enjoyed by the lower classes are steadily increasing; and of the parish generally, it may be said that it is in a highly prosperous condition. Written in 1838, Revised September 1842. PARlsft OF GUTHRIE. * PSESBYTERY OF ARBROATH, SYNOD OF ANGIS AND MEARNS. THE REV. GEORGE AUKLAY, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. NamCf Boundaries^ Sfc. — No satisfactory account can be given of the name Guthrie, It is the nanne of the family in which is vested the patronage of the parish, and which has been a name of distinction in Scotland as far back as the records of the country extend. The parish consists of two portions, the one of which (Kirkbuddo) is separated from the other where the parish church is situated by an interval of not less than seven miles. It appears from the records of the Abbey of Arbroath, that the kirk of Guthrie had been a chapel belonging to the abbey. It was purchased from the abbey by Sir David Guthrie, the an- cestor of the present patron of the parish, who founded and en-- dowed a collegiate church at Guthrie, for a provost and three prebends. This deed of foundation was confirmed by a bull from Pope Sextus IV. of date 14th June 1479. To this foundation at Guthrie, Kirbuddo or Carhuddo was attached as a rectory, 'i he rectory has been incorporated with Guthrie as an integral part of the same parish, since the Reformation. The northern portion of the parish, in which the church stiinds, is bounded on the south by the parishes of Kirkden and Resco- bie ; on the west, by the parishes of Rescobie and Aberlcmno ; on the north, by the parish of Aberlemno ; and on the east, by the parish of Kinnell. The southern, or Carbuddo portion, is bound- ed, on the north, by the parish of Dunnichen; on the west, by that of Inverarity; on the south, by the parishes of Inverarity and Monikie ; and on the east, by the parish of Carmylie. Topographical Appearance and Soil, — The appearance of the northern portion of the parish somewhat resembles the ridge on which the old town of Edinburgh stands, with the castle rock at the western extremity. Guthrie Hill, a round-backed mass of * Drawn up by the late Rev. James Whilsoiiy Minister of Guthrie. 470 FORFARSHIRE. trap, stands at the western boundary, and the ground declines from this in a ridge to the eastward, which slopes down to the north and south into irregularly defined valleys. A small stream called the Lunan, flows through the valley on the south, and forms the boundary line of the parish in that direction. The land to the south of the ridge above referred to is generally of good quality, being chiefly a black loam, underneath which is a thick stratum of clay, which is strongly retentive of water. The soil, it is believed, might be rendered much more productive- by draining, which is greatly needed ; and also the subsoil -plough, invented by Mr Smith of Deanston, by means of which, in this neighbourhood, very beneficial results have been produced. The remainder of the land, in this northern division, is of inferior qua- lity ; almost all of it is much in need of draining ; and, in regard to a considerable portion, perhaps a fourth part of it, such is the inherent poverty of the soil, that a great outlay of capital and la- bour must take place before it could be rendered moderately pro- ductive; and even then, the returns would be no adequate reward for the pains bestowed^ The southern, or Carbuddo portion of the parish is generally level, with the exception of the locality on which the mansion-house of Carbuddo is placed, which is slightly elevated above the surrounding land. The remarks made as to the qualities of the soil, in the northern division of the pa- rish, are generally applicable to this, the southern portion of it ; with this modification, that the quantity of good land is consider- ably less than in the Guthrie portion of the parish ; and the need for draining, and agricultural improvements, generally, is much greater. Around Guthrie Castle, particularly, and also at Kirk- buddo House, there is much wood ; a considerable portion of which is old and full-grown. In both divisions of the parish, also, there are plantations and stripes of thriving timber, which tend to beautify and enliven the face of the country. II. — Civil History. Land-oumers, — The whole parish, which consists of about six square miles, whereof nearly four belong to the Guthrie or north- ern portion, is divided among three proprietors, viz. John Guthrie, Esq. of that Ilk ; P. W. Carnegy, Esq. of Lower and Turin ; and George Ogilvy, Esq. of Carbuddo. The Guthrie division is shared between the two first mentioned persons, in the proportion of about three to one ; Mr Guthrie having the larger share. The whole of the Carbuddo portion is owned by G. Ogilvy, Esq. GUTHRIE. 471 Paroddal BeguUn, — These extend back to the beginning of the seventeenth century ; but there are many gaps in the records, and nothing like a continued narrative of parochial matters from the above date to the present. The portions that do exist, espe- cially those towards the beginning, are very explicit and full, and, in many cases, very quaint and interesting. Antiquities. — Guthrie Castle, one of the residences of the cliief of the family of that name, stands within a quarter of a mile of the parish church, and is of considerable antiquity. Sir David Guthrie, already mentioned, obtained warrant under the Great Seal to build this castle in 1468. It is still in great preservation, and must formerly, when surrounded by water, have been a place of considerable strength. Its bold massive tower, surmounted by cas- tellated ornaments, shooting up into the sky from amid the umbra- geous woods, conveys a strong impression of beauty and grandeur. It is worthy of remark, that, in 1299, when Sir William Wallace had resigned the guardianship of Scotland, and retired to France, the northern lairds of Scotland sent Squire Guthrie to request his return, in order to assist in opposing the English ; and that, from Aat remote period down to the present time, the domain of Guthrie has been transmitted in the same name, unfettered by any deed of entail. It is believed that the family of Guthrie of Guthrie is the most ancient of the county of Angus. It is matter of un« doubted fact, that they were men of rank and property long before the time of James II. of Scotland, and that many of the house were distinguished by their enterprise and valour. Sir Alexander Guthrie, with one of his sons and three brotliers-in-law, fell at Flodden Field. There is, in the southern division of the parish, a Roman camp. Thisjcamp is about five miles south-cast from Forfar. It is one of the most entire of any of the Roman temporary camps that have been discovered. It is more narrow and rather lonirer than the small camps usually are, being about 2*280 feet by 1080. Close to the south-east angle is an enclosure, situated on the highest ground, whence all the rest of the camp is seen. This might perhaps serve as a prfeioriutn. Its gate is covered with a straight traverse, like that of the camp. Upon the west entrench- ment, which is one of the two longest sides of the camp, there is a small pond, between the south-west corner and the Quintane gate. This camp, on the Polybian system, would hold, it is sup- posed, 10,000 men. 472 FORFARSHIRE. About three years ago, there were found, at the south-east corner of the northern division of the parish, on the banks of the Lunan, two utensils of earthenware ; one shaped somewhat in the form of a kettle ; the other, a rude resemblance of a Roman am- phora^ Both, unfortunatety, were broken in being dug up froa» a gravel pit, where they were deposited about three or four feet below the surface. They bore no marks or inscription by which their age could be traced. It seems sufficiently probable that they had been left in the course of the movements, either of the Roman or of the Danish armies ; the course of both of which lay in this direction. But it would be useless to prosecute conjecture farther, in the absence of all light and evidence whereby to guide it. There is one meal-mill in the parish, but no mills of any other description, nor manufactories of any kind. The largest cluster of houses in the parish is the Kirktown, containing in all nine fa- milies. Among these there are, a baker, a brewer, a blacksmith, a shoemaker, and a merchant, by which designation is meant one who unites in his own person the character of grocer, clothier, hatter, haberdasher, toyman, ironmonger, druggist, &c. The Kirktown of Guthrie thus supplies all the necessaries, and not a few of the luxuries of life, to the neighbourhood for several miles around. III. — Population. In 1801, the population amounted to 556 1831, . . 528 1841, . . 530 The population of late has been rather on the decrease, owing chiefly to the uniting of farms, and also in part to the removal of some families to manufacturing districts in quest of employment. Number of fumilies in the parish, . .97 chiefly engaged in agriculture, . 73 engaged in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 20 A rerage number of births for the last six years, . 14 deaths, . .7 marriages, . . 3 IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — There are about 3200 acres of cultivated land in the parish ; about two-fifths of this being in the northern or Guthrie division, and about 660 under wood and unreclaimed moor; somewhere about two-thirds of these 660 acres being in this latter state. The wood is planted, and is ge- nerally thriving. A great portion of the moorland is susceptible of improvement, and portions of it are from year to year being re- claimed. As already noticed, the great desideratum io the pa- GUTHRIE. 473 tisli generally is draining : attention has been roused to the im- portance of this ; and efforts are used to introduce it in good earnest The value of the subsoil plough, also, it is hoped, will be generally appreciated, and its use become common. It seems to be the opinion of those most competent to judge of this matter, that its adoption would loosen the retentive subsoil which so ge- nerally prevails throughout the whole parish, and permit the water to escape downwards. With the modification now explained, husbandry is conducted skilfully and industriously ; and though a niggardly and ungrateful soil, and, to some extent, an ungenial climate, in many cases but ill requite the labours of the husband- man ; yet continued industry and perseverance are, in many in- stances, well rewarded. The leases are generally of fourteen or nineteen years' duration. The farm-houses and offices are gene- rally convenient. There is great want, however, of good fences. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Town^ — Means of Communication, — As already stated, the parish contains neither town nor village. The nearest post- town is Forfar, distant seven miles from the church ; but the town with which the chief communication takes place, is Arbroath, which is distant eight miles. The Arbroath and Forfar turnpike road, and the railway between these two towns, both pass along within a quarter of a mile from the parish church. Ecclesiastical State.'^The church is situated within about 100 yards of the centre of the southern boundary of the northern di- vision of the parish. Its situation is convenient enough for this section of the parish, though sadly otherwise for the other division. The church and manse are very pleasantly situated, being on the verge of a declivity, sloping down into the valley through which the small stream, the Lunan, already mentioned, prettily winds its course. The locality, indeed, where the church and manse stand, is the most eligible for natural beauty and prospect/of any between Forfar and Arbroath. The church is a plain building, but very substantial and comfortable. It was erected in 1826 : It is capable of accommodating 306, at the legal allowance of eighteen inches to each sitter. The manse received a large addition about fourteen years ago, and is in good repair. There are about five acres of glebe, besides three acres of moorland, in name of grass-glebe. The stipend is one of the " small livings," receiving an augmentation from Government. 474 FOFFARSHIRK. The southern or Carbuddo division of the parish labours under great disadvantages in respect of church accommodation, — tbe average distances of that part of the parish being eight miles from the parish church. There is no place of worship in that locality, nor has there been for very many years. It is hoped that this evil may soon be so far remedied, by the erection of a school of such a form as to be easily convertible into a preaching station. In the meantime, with the view of doing something for the supply of Di- vine ordinances to this section of the parish, it is the practice, ex- cept during the winter months, to preach there in a small school- house, at an interval of two or three weeks, besides the usual mi- nisterial visitations among the different families. It may be stated, that, though the families in this section of the parish be far from their parish church, they are not farther, in any case, than three miles from some of the contiguous parish churches. With the exception of twelve persons, the whole population of the parish belongs to the Established Church ; and Divine service is generally well attended. The average number of communicants for some years past has been about 235. * Education, — Besides the parish school, there is a school at Car- buddo, which is supported by subscription. The teacher's de- pendence is almost wholly on the school fees. For the last four years the average attendance at both these schools has been about 87 ; showing that very nearly a sixth of the whole population are at school. The s^ilary of the parochial teacher is the minimum. The amount of school fees is probably from L.16 to L.20 a year. The master has the legal accommodations. The school fees per quarter are, for reading, 2s. ; for reading and writing, 2s. 6d. ; for reading, writing, and arithmetic, 3s. ; for practical mathematics, 4s. It is believed that all persons in the parish above six years of age are able to read. Library. — There is a parish library consisting of religious books, and the parishioners generally avail themselves of the privilege of it. Poor, — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid for some time back has not been great. The allowance varies from Ss. to 15s. per month, in some cases more, according as tbe need may be. Besides those who get regular supply, others get occasional help. On the occasion of dispensing the Lord's Sup- per, a portion of the collections made is applied for the relief of • This includes strangers from the neighbouring parishes of Kirkdcn and Rcscobie. EASSiE AND NKVAV. 4T5 qiedal cases that are not included in the regular roll ; and, in winier, coals are distributed, according to the exigencies of the season and other circumstances. There is no assessment for the maintenance of the poor. /nfu.— There is an alehouse in the Kirktown, and another on the eastern boundary of the parish. fbel. — Coals are the fuel chiefly in use. They are brought from Arbroath, distant about eight and a half miles from the cen- tre of the north division of the parish. Bemsed September 1842. PARISH OF EASSIE AND NEVAY. TRESBYTERY OF MBIGLK, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JAMES FLOWERDEW, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries^ Sfc. — These united parishes are bounded on the east and south, by Glammis ; on the south-west, by Newtylc ; and, on the west and north, by Meigle and Airly. They are about 4 miles long and 3 broad, and contain an area of 8 square miles. The Deane forms the northern boundary of Eassie. This stream, as its name is said to import, is of considerable depth, and has a scarcely perceptible current. On the south side, it is strongly embanked ; but, owing to the sudden and frequent bends in its course, it often, in winter, breaks through the embankment and inundates the neighbouring fields. Mineralogy and Botany. — The mineralogy and botany of these parishes are so similar to those of the adjoining parish of Glam- mis, that any description of them would only be a repetition of the observations of the scientific gentleman who furnished the mi- neralogical and botanical portion of the account of that parish. No specimens, however, of the fossil and organic remains, that have been found in it at various times, have ever been discovered in this parish. The rocks are of the same old sandstone forma- tion ; the colours being gray and brownish-red. The dip of the beds is to the north-west ; and the character of the rocks varies from conglomerate, through the usual gradations, down to calmstone. 4#S roEFAKSHrmE. IL — Cmi. HisTOET. jlmiifmiia^ — Aboot a Biiie firooi the old church of Easne, there is a large drcolar awgnd, oa which the Eum-house of Castle Xaime k built. The groand, to a coosidet^ble extent aroandy is quite flat. Si- milar remains of antiquity are foimd in larioos parts, not only o. Scotland, hot England and Ireland, and hare had new light thrown opoo them by a recent and Tery cnrioos book, entitled ** the Doc- trine of the Deluge," by the Rer. Vernon Harcourt, son of the Archbishop of York. He connects them with that great £aict of Scripture history, and calls them ^ Memorials of Arktte Worship." He obserres, ^ These Arkite memorials abound along the Grampians, fiw the Arkite worship clung most te- naciously to islands and mountains." To this origin he traces, and upon this principle he explaios, other antiquities of the country. Those curious cells under ground, of which there are specimens in the parish of Tealing and elsewhere, and which are generally supposed to be Pictish, he pronounces to be ** Ar- kite cells for penance and puridcation." They were so small that the devotee could hardly stretch himself on the floor. With regard to the ancient mound in this parish, whatever might have been its original purpose, it has evidently been at some pe- riod a military station. The deep and broad moat that surrounded it still remains. Traces of a draw-bridge were at one time visible. Some years ago, several coins of Edward I. were found on it, and still more recently, a spear-head, evidently of great antiquity. In ' the immediate neighbourhood is the farm of Ingliston, on a part of which, at one time, could be distinctly traced the outlines of an encampment It is highly probable, under these circumstances, that the Eng- glish army under Edward had occupied this position. The works of former ages often came in the course of time and change of circumstances to serve purposes different from the orio^inal one. That which was intended for worship has been converted to war ; and thus the mound in question, with equal truth, may be viewed in the light of a military station, and a ^' diluvian" mount. Another curious remain of antiquity is a large sculptured stone that stands near to the old church at Eassie. It is less known than those at Meigic and Abcrlemno, owing to its having lain for many years neglected in the stream. But it belongs to the same class, and possesses the same characteristics as those more celebrated EASSIB AND NEVAY. 4*7 pillars. Of all the antiquities of a neighbourhood monumental obelisks are perhaps the most interesting. They are histories in stone of the age in which they were erected. They tell little, in- deed, and that little obscurely, of the usages, the events, and the men of those distant times. But they tell us nearly all we yet know, or perhaps ever shall. Rising as ninny of them did long antecedent to the dawn of authentic history, they were almost an- tiquities to the earliest annalists, who, if theynotice them at all, speak of them as relics of a far older time than their own. Many of them have already disappeared. ^^ Mors etiam saxis nomini- busque venit." Those that still stand are often the only surviving records of ages and generations long since passed away. They were designed by each successive age that left them behind it to transmit its memory and usages to posterity. The old name of a monumental pillar perhaps indicates its use. It was " Amad," sig- nifying in Hebrew the lips or words of the people ; the people of former generations thus speaking to those who arc to come after tbem. To this origin may be traced many of the popular tradi- tions connected with those remarkable stones, termed ^^ speaking- stones.*' In Pembrokeshire there is one called Lich Lavar {lapis lo* quax^) the tradition being that it called out when a dead body was placed upon it. In the history of Waterford there is the account of another, so called from having contradicted a person who swore wisely by it, — the Irish name signifying a speaking-stone. Com- mon tradition regards many of them as once animated beings. Thus Stonehenge is called the Dance of the Giants; and Staunton Drew, in Somersetshire, the " Weddings." These are the fancies of popular superstition. But there is perhaps a soberer and truer interpretation of those sculptured records. They furnish us with notices of antiquity that arc not to be found in the written annals of our country. The beautiful execution of the devices and characters engraven on them attest the skill to which the people had already attained in the difficult art of sculpturing stone ; and the characters still stand out as bold and clear as when they first came from the hands of the sculptor. I'he obelisks south of the Frith of Forth are not indeed of this description ; but every where to the north of it the obelisks are covered with emblematical devices ; and those of the northern counties especially are remarkable for their ela- borate and exquisite workmanship. Now our oldest annals tell us only of turbulent times and barbarous tribes. 77t€'y could neither 478 FORFARSHIRE. have executed nor even understood the beautiful sculpture on those pillars. The age, whatever it was, that produced them, must have been one of comparative civilization and peace. They are the works of men and times of which there is no other existing record; and thus a strong light is thrown upon remote antiquity by these carved obelisks ; and from them alone we gather this im« portant fact in the history of our race, that, at remoter periods than the historian has been able to reach, civilized communities already existed. It has been supposed that there is some unaccountable aflBnity between the sculpture of these monuments and Egyptian symbols. In many of them the selpent is a very conspicuous figure; and of every superstition in every age of the world, serpent worship ap- pears to have formed a part. In the magic of Chaldea, in the philosophy of Eg}'pt, in the Brahmanism of Hindostan, and in the Druidism of Britain, it is distinctly to be traced. This universa- lity of serpent worship can be explained only by supposing it to have one common origin everywhere, and that it is to be found in the Scripture history of the fall of man. It is one of those frag- ments of early revelation that have been broken off from the sys- tem of which they form a part, and carried down the stream of time after their object and purpose had been forgotten. The serpent in Paradise is the origin of serpent-worship everywhere ; and thus an idolatrous symbol on an ancient obelisk becomes an argument at once for the antiquity and truth of the Old Testa- ment Scriptures. It is gratifying to find thus enlisted in the cause of Christianity the memorials of those very superstitions which were at one time the greatest barriers to its progress, and the most formidable rivals to its claim upon the aflection and veneration of former agos. Another striking feature in the sculpture of these stones is the frtH|Uont representation of hunting scenes. The chase was the national amusement of Scotland from a very remote period ; and in such estimation was it held by the nobility and gentry, that, in the eleventh century, by the forest laws of Canute the Great, no porMin under the rank of a gentleman was allowed to keep a grey- hound. It is in commemoration of this favourite pastime that the li^urojiof diH^r-hounds and wolf-dogs are so prominently represent- ed on these old obelisks. But the most remarkable figure on these Moulpturtul stones is that of the cross. It was perhaps intended to eouuuemomte the introiluction of Christianity into Caledonia, and EASSIE AND NEVAV. 479 iras probably borrowed from the missals of those missionaries from Rome who first brought the religion of the cross to its benighted inhabitants. But the sculpture of the stone in this parish is re- markable for the union of Pagan and Christian symbols. An or- namental cross is blended with the symbols and ceremonies of an- cient superstition. In looking back to the dawn of religion in a country, it is difficult to mark with precision the line where the darkness of mythology ends and the light of revelation begins. But the union of idolatrous and evangelical symbols would indi- catOy that Scotland was at the time passing from superstition to Christianity. In that state of transition, the people had partially abjured the one and partially embraced the other; and they have recorded their lingering attachment to the superstition of their fa- tbersi by blending on these monuments its still sacred symbols with those of the new faith ; and thus we have an interesting re- cord of the expiring struggle between the superstition of the na- tive and the religion of the missionary. At what time, and by what people, were these monuments erected ? With regard to the 6rst of these questions, it would be mere conjecture to fix the date precisely to a century, as it must ever be with all those ^< undated relics whose birth tradition notes not.'' But they bear internal evidence of very high antiquity. Allusion has already been made to the elaborate sculpture with which they are ornamented, carrying us back to times of which there is no other existing and authentic record. The union also of Pagan and Christian symbols furnishes a clue to guide us to the period of their erection. The Romans abandoned Britain early in tho fifth century. The inhabitants of the south of Scotland were converted to Christianity about this period, but the northern pro- vinces had not embraced it till near the close of the sixth. It must therefore have been at some period subsequent to this that the pillars with crosses and other Christian symbols engraven on them, were erected. The Pictish period of Scottish history is from 414 to 843; and although Pinkcrton is disposed to assign the period from 843 to 1056 for engraven obelisks, still there is strong probability that they wore executed some time between the seventh aud the ninth century, and before the close of the Pictish period. With regard to the second question, by " what people they were erected?" — it is supposed by some that they are Danish. There are, how ever, very strong objections to this view. In tho- FORFAR. 1 i 480 FORFARSHIRE. first place» it is stated by Chalmers id his Caledonia, that the only true Runic remain in North Britain seems to be the DaaMi monument in the churchyard at Ruthwell in rtnmfrien sfciio^ which is curious from having been ordered by the Ocaetri Aa- sembly, in 1644| to be thrown down, as an object of idolatry to the vulgar. In the second place, they want the Bonic characters that distinguish Danish obelisks, and wbieb are to some extent supposed to be represented on those in the vicinity of Aberdeen, Dundee, and Perth. And, in the third place, how, on this theory, are we to account for the Cbrisliaii symbols sculptured on them? The Danes had not embraced Christianity till just before they left Scotland in 1014, and during that short period the Scots never allowed these invaders to obtain so permanent and undis- turbed a footing in this part of the country as to leave them at leisure for the execution of elaborately sculptured monuments. If these objections be well founded, then these monuments must be of Pictish origin, as the only other people by whom they could have been erected. The period during which they have been supposed to have been erected, namely, the Pictish period in Scot- tish history, warrants us in ascribing them to that people. An- other argument may be drawn from the emblematical devices and characters engraven on the stones. The figure of the cross is profusely covered with a variety of circles and other mathe- matical figures. < In these may be traced rude representations of the planetary system ; and we know that the worship and theology of the Druids have much reference to the revolutions and aspects of the heavenly bodies. Now Druidism was the religion of the Picts, and that people, in their half-state of conversion to Christianity, represented on their obelisks, as already stated, the united symbols of their old and their new religion. But farther, the Druidical temples were circular. The cross on the stone at Eassie is covered with circles, and these may have been intended to represent the temples in which their fathers and probably themselves had worshipped. Once more, animal sacrifice was a part of Druidical worship ; and on one side of this stone there is represented a procession of figures in the robes of priests, with animals wreathed and consecrated, as if for some expiatory of- fering. Nothing is known with certainty of the particular event or indi- vidual to whose memory this stone at Eassie was erected. There is a tradition that connects it with the death of one of the Royal EASSIE AND NKVAY. 48l Ikmily in Scotland. On the death of Macbeath, in 1056, Lulach, the great-grandson of Kenneth I V.^ ascended the throne of Scot- land, and fell in battle at Eassie, in 1057, defending his claim against Malcolm, Duncan's eldest son. But this Eassie is in Strathbogie, and the similarity of the name accounts for the tra* dition referred to. Whether this pillar tells a national or domes- tie tale, — whether it marks a grave or commemorates a battle, — whether it represents a usage of the country, or a rite in religion, are points on which different opinions will still continue to be formed. Lamd' Owm e rin They are, the Right Honourable Lord Wharn- cliffe; David Nairne, Esq. of Drumkilbo; the Trustees of the late Lord Strathmore; James L'Amy, Esq. of Dunkenny ; and Colin Symers, Esq. of Eassie. The two largest proprietors are Lord Whamcliffe and Mr Nairne. His Lordship possesses the whole parish of Nevay. The extent of cultivated land in it is upwards of 1400 imperial acres; of uncultivated, including 33 acres of woods, there are about 540 acres. The arable land on the es- tate of Mr Nairne in this parish extends to between 700 or 800 acres. The whole pasture land docs not exceed 35 acres ; the plantations on both estates may measure about 235 acres, princi- pally of larch and Scotch fir, of no great age, and as yet of little value. There is no resident heritor. HI. — Population. The extent of the population has varied little for a century past. It was, in 1721, 657; in 1821, 664; and, according to the last census, it was 732. The increase in 1841 is rather apparent than real, for the difference was owing to the strangers that happened to be at work at the time the census was taken. The plan adopt- ed of including in the population list of a parish all who slept in the parish on the night preceding the day on which the names were taken up, while it may give accurately the whole population of the country, gives in some instances more, and in others less, than the number of inhabitants exclusively belonging to the particular parish. Families employed in agriculture, 54 in trades, manufactures, &o. 92 All other fkmiliesi . . . 50 In alU 136 IV. — Industry. Almost the whole land of the united parishes is in a high state 482 FORFARSHIRE. of cultivation. By the skill and capital of the tenantry, all the waste land has been reclaimed. The crops of barley and oats are not inferior in point of produce or quality to any grown in the county — and from the great attention bestowed by the farmers in picking and cleansing their seed corn, considerable quantities both of barley and potato oats are annually sent from the united pa- rishes to other parts of Scotland for seed. In general the farm- buildings are of the first rate description, most of them having been erected by the proprietors on the most approved and extended plans. The average extent of the farms is 200 acres, and the average rent about L. 1, lOs. per imperial acre. Live-Stock, — Ten years ago, the only breed of cattle reared was that indigenous to the country, — the Angus breed, and great and increasing care has been successfully bestowed in bringing them to perfection. There is also the short-horned breed, and a cross between them and the Angus. It has been found that the first cross between tlie Angus and the short-horned bull produces a very superior animal, increasing the natural disposition of the Angus breed to grow and fatten, and still possessing sufficient har- dihood of constitution to acquire great weight and maturity at two years old under the common treatment. In the last Statistical Account it is said ^' sheep are entirely banished.'' In this respect, there is now a great change. Many flocks of Highland ewes are kept to improve the pasture in summer, — the lambs being a cross between them and the Leicester tup. In autumn, many hundreds of Highland wedders are fed on turnips for the double purpose of manuring the land and reaping a profit The leases are for nineteen years, and the rents are regulated by the fiars prices, subject to a maximum of L.d, 15s. It is now, however, understood, that, as the leases fall, the proprietors are to discontinue the present practice of letting the farms by the fiars. One farm on Lord Wharncliffe's property was last year let at a fixed money rent. Wages. — Ploughnaen have from L.9 to L.14 a year, with six and a half bolls of meal, and two quarts of new milk per day. Married men have a house, for which there is a deduction of li. 1, 10s. to L.2 from wages, and, if they keep a cow, they pay from L.4 to L.6 for the keep. The average rate of labourer's wages varies from Is. 4d. to 2s. per day, and during winter from Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. The ploughmen live in bothy, — a system of which Cobbett EASSIE AND NEVAV. 483 sa)'s, ** that it is a disgrace to a civilized country, and, from the total want of comfort and cleanliness, is ruinous to the domestic habits of the labourer.'' In this matter, there is a striking contrast be- tween Scotland and Norway. The bothy system prevails there as well as here, but on how different a footing will appear from the following extract from Mr Laing's recent work on Norway : ^ There is a bothy here, as in Scotland, called a ' Bortstue,' — a se- parate house detached from the main one, and better than the dwelling-houses of many respectable farmers in Aberdeenshire and Mearns paying considerable rents. It consists of one large well- lighted room, with four windows, a good stove or fire-place, a wooden floor, with benches, chairs, and a table. At the end is a kitchen, in which their victuals are cooked by a servant, whose business it is to attend to the bortstue and cook for the people. ^ The space above is divided into bed- rooms, each with a win- dow, and the doors lead into a covered gallery, open at the side, such as we still see in some of the old inns in London, and in this gallery the bed-clothes are hung out daily, whatever be the wea« ther." V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication, — The great northern road from Edin- burgh to Aberdeen passes through the parish, and is kept in ex- cellent repair in this neighbourhood. A very important improve- ment in the means of communication has taken place within a few years. A railroad now passes through the whole length of the parish, joining the Dundee and Cupar- Angus line about a mile to the north of Newtyle, and terminating at present at the market- moor of Glamniis, with the prospect, at some future period, of being extended to Forfar and 'Kirriemuir. This greatly facili- tates the communication with Dundee, — the market-town to which all the agricultural produce of this part of the country is sent, and from which coal, lime, and manure are brought. Ecclesiastical State. — There were formerly two places of wor- ship in the united parishes. They were situated at the eastern and western extremities, and are now in ruins. A commodious and elegant new church was built a few years ago, on a site that is cen- trical for both parishes. An excellent new manse was also built last year, close to the new church. The old manse is situated near to the old church at Eassie, and is distant about two miles from the present one. There is no other place of worship, and no family of Dissenters in the parish. There are two glebes^ — ^84 FORFARSHiaE. Eassie glebe, 7 acres, 789 poles, moor portion of do. 1 acre, 2 62 poles ; Nevay glebe, 2 acres, 229 poles ; in all, 1 1 acres, 1 rood, 12 square yards. When the manse was removed, it was at the same time resolved by the heritors that there should be an excambion of the old glebes for a new one adjoining the new manse. The persons appointed by the Presbytery and heritors to inspect and value the ground round the new manse, reported, *^ that 15 imperial acres would be equal in value, quantity and quality considered, to the aforesaid glebe of Eassie, moor portion of the same, and glebe of Nevay.** The stipend at present is 174 bolls, half meal, and half barley, with L. 2, 5s. 6d. of vicarage. At the last process for an aug- mentation, the Court gave 15 chalders, but this was understood to be beyond the amount of free teind in the parish. An inves- tigation into the state of the teinds was instituted by the late in- cumbent, but was abandoned in consequence of his receiving from Lord Wharncliffe, about whose teinds chiefly there was any doubt, a number of acres of land rent free, as an equivalent. The matter has not yet been brought to a conclusion. Education. — There is no other school in the parbli except the parochial school. The schoolmaster has the maximum salary. On account of bad health he retired last year, on the full salary, leaving the house, garden, and school fees to the assistant teacher, who now discharges all the duties of that office. The parents, in general, are anxious to give education to their children. The number present at last examination was nearly 100,— a large at- tendance considering the size of the parish. A Sabbath school is also taught by the minister and assistant teacher. Poor. — The poor usually on the roll seldom exceed six. The average allowance to each is 6s. a month, with coals and house rent; although 8s. and 10s. a month have been given. The ave- rage yearly collections for the last seven years has been upwards of L. 30. There is a fund of L.226 in the Dundee Bank. Some years ago, a handsome bequest of L. 100 was made to the kirk- session by the late Miss Ogilvie of West Hall, a daughter of a former minister of the parish, for occasional assistance to the in- dustrious poor not on the roll of paupers. There is also a parish library. The oldest parish register that has been preserved, is dated 1717. September 1842. PARISH OF MONIKIE. PRESBYTERY OF DUNDEE, SYNOD OF ANGl'R AND MEARNS. THE REV. JAMES MILLER, MINISTER. I, — Topography and Natural History. Name. — It is supposed that the name Monikie is Gaelic, and composed of Monahj signifying an upland moss or moor, and Ceo^ mist or fog, and so descriptive of the higher district of the parish, where the church and mlinse are situated. Extent, Sfc. — The greatest extent of the parish from north-west to south-east is about 7 miles, and its breadth something more than 5. It is bounded on the south by the parishes of Barry and Mo- nifieth ; on the west, by Murroes and Inverarity ; on the north, by Guthrie and Carmylie ; and on the east by Panbride. Two ranges of hills, crossing the parish from east to west, divide it into three districts, very different as to soil and climate. The first district, which lies to the south of the Downie hills, and slopes towards the estuary of the river Tay, is composed of a rich and productive soil lying upon gravel, or scurdy rock ; and yields early crops of all kinds, and especially of wheat and barley. The middle district, forming a valley between the two ranges of hills, is composed chiefly of thin black loam, on a bed of cold, wet till, very difficult to cultivate in season, and producing inferior crops of everything except oats. Being elevated about 300 feet above the level of the sea, the climate of this district is cold and damp during a great part of the year. The third district, at an elevation of about 400 feet, forms a swampy and moorish tract, extending along the northern boundary of the parish, thinly inhabited, and cultivated only in a very few places, and to very little advantage. Geology, — ^The greater part of the Downie hills is composed of a beautiful trap or whinstone, admirably adapted for building or making roads. The range terminates on the west, in a quarry of ex- cellent sandstone or freestone, which supplies an extensive district to the south. The northern part of the parish contains a very valuable 486 FORFARSHIRE. bed of slate or pavement, which, from Ley's mill quarry on the estate of Kinblethmont, extends in a southerly direction, by Car- mylie, Smithfield, Wellbank, and Duntrune. Beautiful speci- mens of agate, jasper, and spar, the produce of the trap, are found on the Do wnie hills, the tops of which are also ornamented with a great variety of plants. II. — Civil History. Heritors of the Parish. — These are, Lord Panmure, Lord Doug- las, Mr Fyffe of Smithfield, Mr Graham of Affleck, Mr Kerr of Newbigging ; none of whom are resident except Mr Kerr, though all of them are very attentive to the best interests of the parish. Antiquities, — In the list of antiquities may be reckoned, a beau- tiful specimen of the old feudal castles, at Affleck, which, though ong uninhabited, yet seems to be as entire as it has ever been. It is said to serve as a mark to sailors on the neighbouring coast The foundation of another square tower or keep, of less dimen- sions, at Hyndcastle, on the northern boundary of the parish, si- tuated on an artificial mound, which at one time must have been surrounded by water and a morass. A tumulus, at the western extremity of the parish, called the Hair Cairn, similar to others which are supposed to have been raised to commemorate some hostile encounter in former times. An ornamented stone pillar, in the shape of a cross, on the hill of Camustane, erected, it is said, to mark the spot where Camus, the Danish general, was slain, after his army had been defeated by Malcolm II., about the year 1020, and which seems to have put an end to the Danish invasion of the kingdom. III. — Population. According to Dr Webster's tables, tbe population was 1 345 1772, . 1033 1794, . 1278 1811, 1293 1821, . 1325 1831, . 1322 r841, 1317 Of whom 632 were males, and 685 females. The yearly average of births for tbe last seven years was . 90 deaths, . . , 2(^ marriages, as nearly as can be calculated, ' 10 The nmnber of families or inhabited houses, . . 300 Average number of children in each family, . » - 3^ The number of families chiefly employed in agriculture, . .165 manufactures, and chiefly weavers, 135 IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — The number of acres under regular cultivaliou MONIKIE. 487 il&ay be stated at 4448. But what may be the annual produce, or falue of the produce, either en an average, or in any given year, it would be very difficult to determine with any degree of accu- racy. About 500 acres are under wood, chiefly fir, but not thriviug; and probably more than 1000 acres are in a state fit for being planted with advantage, but ought not to be attempted to be cultivated, especially in the present times. The best land in this parish is held by industrious and opulent tenants, on life- rent leases, and at very low rents, and the very liberal proprietor. Lord FiADmure, generally relets these farms, as they fall to the re- spectable sons of the former tenants, on very moderate terms. The inferior land of the parish is generally let on twenty-one year leases, at a rent of from 5s. to L. 1 per acre. The tenantry, in general, are industrious and enterprising ; and of late years have considerably improved both their farms and their fortunes, by fol- lowing extensively the dairy system, and selling the milk and but- ter in the Dundee market. The great demand for potatoes from the same quarter has encouraged the farmers in this district to cultivate this crop more extensively than usual. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State, — The church is inconveniently situated within half a mile of the eastern boundary of the parish ; built in 1812, and seated to hold about 900 persons. It is in good re- pair, and comfortable, and generally well filled in ordinary wea- ther. The average number of communicants may be taken at 600. The manse was built in 1794, and repaired and enlarged in 1827. It is a good house. The glebe consists of 6 acres of excellent land; and the stipend of 16 chalders of victual, (half meal and half barley,) and payable at the highest fiar's prices of the county. There has been in the south-west corner of this parish for many jears a Dissenting chapel, belonging to the United Associate Sy- nod of Seceders, and supported by a congregation collected chiefly from the outskirts of this, and of the neighbouring parishes. The minister's nominal salary is about L.80, paid partly by the seat rents, and partly by the contributions of the members of the con- gregation. The members of the Established Church and the Dissenters have cordially united for several years in supporting a Bible and Missionary Society, which distributes annually about L20 for the propagation of the Gospel at home and abroad. Education* — There are three schools in the parish, in which 488 FORFARSHIRE. the ordinary branches of education are well taught ; and attended, respectively, by an average of 60, 50, and 40 scholars during the winter. The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, and the usual legsJ accommodations. The school-fees and other eaio* luments may amount to about L.80, making his income nearly 1^65 a year, on an average. One of the other teachers has a small endowment. The people are not only alive to the beneBts of education for their children, but have established three public libraries in the parish for their own improvement Their general character may be described as sober, industrious, intelligent, and regular in at- tending the ordinances of religion. A lawsuit among them is a thing scarcely ever heard of. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid may be reckoned at between 12 and 15, according to the state of trade and employment. They are supported at a yearly expense of somewhat more than L.80, arising from the ordinary sources of collections, seat-rents, &c. There are besides, at present, two lunatic paupers in the Dundee Asylum, who are maintained by the heritors assessing themselves for that purpose. The poor, in ge- neral, are well attended to, and no begging is allowed in the parish. It is of a piece with Lord Panmure's ordinary generous attention to the interests of his tenantry, that no person holding land of him is allowed to become a burden on the poor's funds. His Lord- ship's tenants have testified their grateful approbation of his kind- ness and generosity as a landlord, by erecting the '* live and let live" testimonial on the hill of Cambustane, ornamenting the dis- trict, and publishing to at least six counties, their own comfort as associated with their master's honour. Alehouses, — Three small public-houses are kept open for the accommodation of travellers passing through the parish ; but few of the parishioners are found to frequent them. Miscellaneous Observations. There is reason to believe that in the last mentioned and in other respects considerable improvements have taken place since the writ- ing of the last Statistical Account of this parish. Tlie land is cer- tainly in a higher state of cultivation : new and improved modes of husbandry have been introduced ; farm-houses and steadings are larger and more commodious ; and the value of farm stocking has considerably increased, particularly by greater attention to the breed of horses and cattle, since the establishment of agricultural ST VIGEANS. 480 societies. The Tarmers are wisely giving up the pernicious and demoralizing system of bothies, and returning to the old and bet- ter practice of employing respectable and industrious cottars, who take a greater interest in promoting their master's bene6t, and so securing tbeir own comfort. The general improvement in the arts is very sensibly observed in this district. Articles of manufacture are better constructed, and the workman is better remunerated for his skill and labour. In short, the general state of society seems to be growing better. The people, we hope, arc advancing in intelligence, industrious habits, and moral discipline. And it is not unreasonable to ex- pect, that, by the blessing of God on the present improved means of education, especially as respects religion, the young will be trained up to greater respectability and usefulness, and to higher Christian attainments ; and that the general population will gradu- ally become more distinguished for ** whatsoever things are pure, and praiseworthy, and lovely, and of good report." 1842. PARISH OF ST VIGEANS. PRESBYTERY OF AnBUOATH, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEAKNS. THE REV. JOHN MUIR, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. The parish of St Vigeans is here considered as comprehend- ing the ecclesiastical districts of St Vigeans proper ; 2. Inver- brothock ; 3. a third part of Ladyloan. Anciently this parish extended over the whole barony of Aber« brothock.* It is in the l)ite spheres with a black centre, as if the spawn of gigantic Batrachia had been scattered throughout its substance, and afterwards petri- fied. This sandstone in its lower strata becomes compact and durable, and is quarried at Drumyellow and Brax, in this parish, and at Kelly den in Arbirlot. There are found in Drumyel- low quarry, appearances of branches of large monocotyledunous plants, and in the upper strata frequent cavities. The subsoil of this parish is of three distinct kinds. The high- er grounds to the east of the Brothock have but a thin subsoil, formed of the debris of the sandstone rock on which it lies. And the western part has mostly a subsoil of great depth of till or di- luvial marl, with boulders dispersed of all sizes, from that of a pea to those of six or eight tons weight, evidently all derived from northern rocks. But there is in the middle plain towards the mouth of the FORFAR. K kl 49G FORFARSHIRE. Brothock valley, on each side of the stream, a series of remark- ably formed gravel ridges, several of them a mile in length, running from north to south, with a slight curve to the east in their southern terminations. SpringGeld House is situated on the conspicuous end of one of them on the east bank, and Kepty hill is the most prominent termination of another on the west bank of the stream. This latter is about 40 feet high. These ridges consist of boulders, gravel, sand, and clay strata. What might have been the original agent in their formation, can- not be inferred with certainty ; but they all exhibit such an ap- pearance, as if a great debacle from the north sea, in rushing past the high land to the northward, had, in turning up the valley of the Brothock, deposited in the eddies of its more shallow parts, its burden of stones and gravel swept from other surfaces; and there are three appearances which greatly countenance such a sup- position ; for, Isty the strata or layers of which they consist, dip in a direction contrary to the descent of the present stream ; and, 2^/y, at the extreme northern talus of each ridge, a large mass of small sand is found deposited. Bridgeton is situated on one of the points of these tali. North Tarry on another, and the Wardmill hill forms a third ; and on the western side of the stream, the manse stands on one, and the farm of Cairney furnishes three or four more in- stances of these similar formed tali. The rock of the church- yard seemed to have furnished an obstacle, behind which was de- posited in the former lake, a similar ridge, though of lower eleva- tion. About two miles farther up the valley, a similar series of ridges on both sides the stream are apparent, though not so ele- vated, yet their forms and substances are the same, abutting on eminences of land to the south, and declining into sandy points at their northern termination. The mansion of Letham Grange is situated on one of these ; in digging the foundation for which pure gravel like that on the sea shore was cast up. In is remarkable that the alluvial or more rccejit diluvial strata at the mouths of the three streams, the Southesk, the Lunan, and the Brothock, are all similar in their formation. On the surface, first, a stratum of gravel, then a thick one of small sand, under which lies a stratum of brick-clay, then several feet of sand, and beneath all a thick stratum of brick-clay. This is finely exhibited 'M Wardmill Hill, and at Red Castle on the Lunan. The valley also of the Brothock and the plain of Inverkeilor are nearly on the same level, about ninety feet above high water. Hitherto no or ST VIGEANS. 497 ganie fossils have been found in these alluvial strata, excepting petrified reeds. In the quarries from which the pavement is taken, which is a lower branch of the red sandstone, berry like marks, fossilized joints of reeds, and leaves of rushes or grass are occa- sionally found deeply situated in the rock. Between the soil and the subsoil, on a great part of the western triangle of the parish, there is often a cake of a substance like bog- iron ore, called pan^ evidently formed not from the iron in the decay of the vegetation, but from the carbonaceous matter of the roots through successive ages, combining with the oxide of iron by which the red diluvial clay below is impregnated and coloured. This cake is very pernicious to the fertility of the soil, retaining the moisture in winter, and subjecting it to parching drought in summer. II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — The oldest register in this parish com- mences with the settlement of Mr Patrick Strachan in 1665, and was kept by him for thirty years, recording collections and church discipline, and texts of his sermons promiscuously. The baptisms and marriages were recorded at the end of the volume in the same manner. This volume is succeeded by an interval of thirty years without any record.* Subsequent to 1727, a record was re- gularly kept of all parochial matters, excepting funerals. For a few years after 1727, the sacrament of the Lord's Supper was not dispensed, under a superstitious notion, from the circum- stance of the minister committing suicide, that the church Wcis destined to be engulphed in the surrounding hollow, if that ordi- nance should be administered. Land'Owners, — In the end of the fifteenth century, this whole parish, with the exception of Inverpeffer, belonged to the abbey. The valued rent of the parish is L.8307, 7s. 5d. Scots money ; and the chief proprietors are, John Hay, Esq. of Lethamgrange, L.1085 Scots; Lord Panmure, non-resident, L.1200, 5s. 6d. ; Mrs Renny Strachan of Seaton, L. 95*3, 8s. Id.; James Mu- die, Esq. of Pitmuies, non-resident, L. 864. There are, be- sides these, the following proprietors, with less extent of valued rent, resident in their mansion-houses in the parish : Captain Ro- bert Scott, Abbethune ; David Scott, Esq. of Newton ; John Duncan, Esq. of Parkhill ; David Louson, Esq. of Springfield ; * Two volumes were said to have been burnt by the wife of a scBRion-clerk for al- ^ed ill treatment to her hui»band. 49lB FORFARSHIRE. John Lindsay, Esq. ot Almeriecloss; George Canning, Esq. of Millbank ; George Chaplin, Eac|. of CoUiston ; Patrick Rickard, Esq. of Woodlands; Thomas Scott, Esq. of Beechwood; Mrs Baker of Hospitalfield. The mansions of all these are modem, except Colliston, said to hare been built by Cardinal Beaton for his son-in-law. The Earl of Northesk and Sir John Ogihie, Bart of InTerquharity, the Town- Council of Arbroath, and Dr OgiWie of Parkconan hare also estates in this parish ; but they are not resident proprietors. IIL — Population. The population of this parisb has been, for the last 100 years, continually on the increase. According to Dr Webster's report, the population was then 1592. Since 1780, the increase has been rapid in the neighbourhood and suburbs of Arbroath. In 1754, there were but 12 families on the lands contiguous to the royalty, ^s. containing then, in all likelihood, 60 individuals. In 1799^ only \j]^ 1369 persons of all ages, 669 males and 700 females, were there. V. There are now in the same limits, within the Parliamentary boun- «\ dary, 1004 families, consisting of 6037 indiriduals. By the C^ census of 1841, there were found in the parish, comprehending the three ecclesiastical districts, 8780 individuals, of which 2743 resided in the country, including the country villages of Auchmi- thic, Mary well, and Gowansbank. Auchmithie contained about 280; the village of Mary well, 170; and Gowansbank, 120. In the town of Arbroath there resided, as above, 6037 individuals belononncr to the Inverbrothock and Ladvloan districts. The number of illegitimate births during the last three years within the three ecclesiastical districts has been in all 42, or one annually for every 670 of the population. The inhabitants of this parish are kind towards one another, and particularly interested in each others health and welfare. Though the operatives are not highly educated, they are intelli^ gent and sober. It is, however, to be lamented, that many of the farm-servants, having been bred from their boyish days in bothies, are but coarse and clownish in their manners. The com- petition for farms, and the consequent high rents, compel many of the masters to exact from their servants severe and rough toil in all kinds of weather ; and it must be evident, that such exer- tions are scarcely consistent with much refinement of manners or much intellectual cultivation. Besides, the universal habit in farm- servants of frequently changing their abode, is not favourable to iheir religious improvement and demeanour. I I 8T VIGEAN6. 499 Within these few years, an occupation hiva been taken up in Ar- broath which is threatening to change the habits of part of the popaktioD ; it is that of brokers who afford ready accommodation to the ineoDsiderate to part with their necessaries, and thus in- crease their misery. Forty years ago, few females were employed at the loom ; now, on the h'ghter fabrics, they are employed in mimberB} as stated particularly in the account in this paper of ** Mannfactures*' by Mr Canning. IV. — Industry. The extent of land in this parish is 13,400 acres, consisting of, Arable in present cultivation, 1 1 ,440 Not cultivated, but capoblu of being so, 450 Not suited for cuitivation, 280 Land under plantations of woodt 840 Suburbs of Arbroath in houses und gardens, 1H) Roads, quarries, streams, .3(H) i'olal, 1;),41U There are eleven miles of turnpike roads, five of railroads, and thirty miles of roads repaired by the commutation or parish road money. All these are tavourably situated for the accommodation of the parish and public. Bent of Land^ Sfc. — The reutal of land in this parish is exceed- ingly various, — pendicles near Arbroath paying about L.6 per im- perial acre, and an extensive farm paying only at the rate of «')s., — the latter on an old lease. There are now only three extensive farms OD old leases, all the rest of the parish being fully if not over- rent- ed. There is now no undivided common. The woods in the pa- rish consist mostly of larch, with a mixture of Scotch fir, beech, and elm. Like most of the soil of the east coast, the soil is not particularly favourable for the growth of wood. The total landed rental of the parish is L. 15,500 ; the police ren- tal within the suburbs of Arbroath for houses and gardens, L.6905 ; total, L.22,405. And, deducting L.500 for woods and waste ground, the average rental of arable land per acre is L.1, 5s. 6d. The recent agricultural improvement is furrow-draining, chiefly by flat stones coupled in setting, and covered by small stones. Some estates have been ameliorated by trench-ploughing. Bone- manure for the turnip, one-half fed oS by sheep, is also not un- common. The subjoined account may be considered as giving the rent, cropping, and produce of what may be reckoned one of the supe- rior or model farms of the parish, with every advantage for ma- nure, green crop, town neighbourhood, and management. 50 acres. Producef 74 quarters per acre. 50 do. 6 quarters do. 34 Jo. 5 quarters do. 50 do. 86 do. 50 do. 25 do. 500 FORFARSHIRE. Extent, 300 imperial acres; rent, L.67% or L.2, 158. per acre. Qnantitj of land in oats, in barley f . iQ wheat, in turnip, . in potatoes, in bay, in pasture, , Live-Stock. — Cows, queys, oro&en, 48; sheep, 240;* swine, 12. Number of horses of all kinds, 10. The greater part of the parish at a distance from the town is on the five shift rotation, pasture, oats, green crop (chiefly tur- nip,) barley, and cut grass. In the western part of the parish there are a great number of small pendicles on inferior land, of which this is the rotation, — the produce of oats and barley be- ing there scarcely two quarters per acre. The quantity of naked fallow in the parish is small ; almost all the land fitted for wheat is prepared for crop by potatoes. The quantity of beans and pease is very small, being entirely confined to two farms on the large scale. Wages. — Married farm-servants are preferred on almost all the farms, and their wages and emoluments are as follows : Wages annually, L.10, with house and yard; oatmeal, 8 cwt. 1 stone; 1 quart 1 pint new milk daily; potatoes, 100 stones; coals, lis. Foremen or principal men obtain two or three pounds more of wages; and instead of milk they have the produce of a cow. Young unmarried men have L.12, with equal milk aud meal as above, but without potatoes. Labourer's wages, Is. 8d. per day in summer, and Is. Sd. in winter. Maid-servants have fironi L.2, 5s. to L.d, ds. in the half year. The whole farm produce is disposed of by sample and weight in Arbroath. Great profit used to be derived by farmers in the neighbourhood, from green crop and from grass, for cutting ; but this way of disposing of their produce has been much departed from, on account of the difficulty of obtaining payments. Many fields, however, are still let for potatoes, in small lots, at the rate of L.8, 5s. the acre ; the farmer furnishing all the horse*work, aud the individual planters furnishing the seed and manual labour. Many families, of the manufacturing classes, secure their winter ))otatoes in this manner, which now constitute two meals of the * This number of sheep is not usual ; only one other farmer in the parish has a biiniiar stock. ST vrnKANs, 501 Four daily refreshments. The use of pork, viith the potato diet, has been introduced since the Statistical Account in 1793. Then, there were only thirty swine in the parish ; now, there are ten times as many reared for home consumption, and exportation to London. Of quarries in the parish, there are only three now wrought; one for freestone, and two others for ])avement. The rental of tlie three, about L.150. Manufactures.^ — In no part of the county of Forfar, Dundee alone excepted, has the rapid increase in manufactures been more strikingly exemplified, than in that portion of St Vigeans which constitutes the suburbs of Arbroath. In the year 1808, there was only one spinning-mill in the parish^f ncimely, Inchmill, driven by a steam-engine of sixteen horse power, of which only a very small portion was then employed in the spinning of yarns, the remainder having been used as a flour-mill. About seven years after this, tlie whole was converted into a ilax and tow-mill. It is now an extensive work, employed in driving flax and tow machinery, a chemical bleaching work, and plash and beating-mills. Arbroath and its vicinity had long been famous for the manu- facture of several descriptions of coarse linens and canvas ; but it was not till machinery had superseded the spinning-wheel, that the portion of the town lying in the parish of St Vigeans became the busy haunt of manufacturing industry. Intersected by the river Brotbock, it was soon found to offer all the advantages requisite for an extensive system of factory spinning. A large piece of land, consisting of about thirty-five imperial acres, called Almerieclose, lying in the very suburbs of Arbroath, and on both sides of the river, was at once given off* by its proprietor in feus ; and, in an incredibly short space of time, immense factories, with their towering stalks, and whole streets of dwelling-houses were seen to rear their hccids, where, only a short time before, the waving corn and the smiling orchard at- tracted the eye. The period embraced between the years 1820 and 18*26, may be considered as the halcyon era of the linen manufactures in this * Communicated by George Canni?ig, Esq. t With the exception of a small mill at Lethnm, erected iu 1793, being the first or becond attempt in Scotland, we believe, to spin flax by machinery. It was driven by water, and being entirely experimental, it underwent constant alterations. A ftmall steam-engine was ultimately got to increase the power ; but the work has been abandoned for many years, and the buildings arc now in ruins. 602 FORFARSHIRE. • quarter. It was during this comparatively brief space that by far the largest proportion of the buildings referred to was con- structed ; and although occasional seasons of prosperity have since occurred, to give a further impetus to this, the staple trade of the district, the five years referred to may, with safety, be mentioned as the period during which it was prosecuted with more uninter- rupted success than has ever since been the case. But this very prosperity, in the end, proved the fruitful source of wide-spread calamity. To meet the increasing trade of the town and suburbs, a native bank was established in Arbroath, con- temporaneous with which, an agency, from an Edinburgh bank, was opened, which, added to the two previously existing, presented the formidable number of four banks to a population, including the environs, of about 10,000 souls. Naturally anxious to do bu- siness, and to participate in the profits of such apparently unex- ampled prosperity, as that which everywhere met the eye, the utmost facility and accommodation were afforded by the banks to almost every class of customers, — an unhappy feature, during prosperous times, of the banking system of the country in general, and which has not unfrequently led to the most disastrous results. The consequences were, in this place as elsewhere, that a number of individuals, destitute of capital, embarked in trade to an un- warrantable extent; and towards the close of 1825 and beginning of 1826, when the memorable panic in London convulsed the whole commercial community, its effects were experienced here with overwhelming severity, engulphing in one common ruin, not merely the speculator and adventurer, but many who for years had deservedly borne a character of unquestioned respectability, — a melancholy illustration of the instability of a commercial life, and a dear-bought warning to one and all, to avoid the fatal effects of over-trading. Nor has the warning been unavailing. The recollection of that disastrous period has never ceased to retain and to exhibit its sa- lutary effects, as well in the administration of the banking business of the district* as on the whole body of merchants and manufac- turers ; and hence it is that, during the last four or five years, while the neighbouring town of Dundee has been a prey to the baneful effects of a system similar to that which, in 1826, pro- * It is here deserving of remark tliat, while in 1825-26 there were four banks to a popula^on of about 10,000, there are at present, and have been since the last-tnen* tioned year, only three banks to a population now increased to 15,000. ST VIGEANS. 503 strated Arbroath, the latter has been distinguished by a modera- tioD which has enabled its merchants and manufacturers to bear up against a series of bad trade, unparalleled in point of duration since the application of steam to manufactures. At the present time (January 1842), there are in that*portion of Arbroath comprehended within the parish of St Vigeans, fifteen mills or factories for spinning flax and tow into various^sizes of yams, from l^lb, per spindle upwards. These are'driven^by 20 steam-engines of 250 horse-power, and give employment direct to 1240 persons. Of these, 275 males are employed in the hackling or dressing of the raw material, about four-fifths of whom are adults, the remainder being apprentices of from fourteen to eigh- teen years of age. The persons who constitute the remaining number of workers are employed exclusively within the factories, properly so called, in the proportion of 250 males to 715 females. Of these about 110 arc men employed as millwrights, foremen, overseers, &c. ; about 250 are women twenty-one years of age and upwards, and the remainder young persons of both sexes from thirteen to twenty-one. The quantity of flax consumed in these mills may be estimated at 5500 tons per annum, of the average aggregate value of about L.200,000. The value of the yarns spun therefrom, and from the tow which is thrown oB'in the process of hackling, may be cxilculated at about L.264,000. The largest proportion of the flax thus con- sumed is imported direct from Russia, the port of Riga furnishing the greatest quantity and the kind held in the highest estimation, both on account of its quality and colour. From St Petersburg there are also considerable supplies occasionally derived, but the quality of late years has been falling ofl*, and the article is consequently in less repute. Some of the Prussian ports, chiefly Memel and Pillau, furnish a certain portion. A small quantity is also import* ed from Ireland, but the flax of that country is in general too high- priced for this market. With regard to the morals of the persons employed in these works, we have no hesitation in pronouncing it as our decided conviction, that they are not only not more lax than any other numerous body placed in similar circumstances of unavoidable juxtaposition, but we have reason to believe that they are, upon the whole, more circumspect in their general walk and conversa- tion than those in any other place of equal extent within ihe ma- nufacturing districts. The health of the people thus employed is 504 F0UFAR6U1BE. also unquestionably above the average of those devoted to similar pursuits elsewhere. Dr Arrott, a highly respectable medical prac- titioner of forty years' standing, whose residence is contiguous to one of the principal factories, and who has had ample opportuni- ties of ascertaining the fact, assures us, that the health of the mill people here is,'on the whole, good ; that, notwithstanding the re- duced wages of late years, and consequent lack of nourishing food, cases of typhus have been comparatively few, and that epidemics are not more prevalent or more fiital amongst them than any other individuals confined to in-door occupations. This gratifying state of things we attribute to the operation of several causes. And first we may notice the favourable position of the town, and the description of houses appropriated to the re- sidence of the working classes. Lying partly along the shore of the German Ocean, and extending thence up the valley of the Brothock, from which the streets rise and recede on both sides, there is, as it were, a natural capability for cleanliness ; and assist^ ed as this is by an active police, ever busy in the work of improve- ment, Arbroath, including much of the suburbs, may be safely pronounced as decidedly the cleanest manufacturing town in Scot- land. But besides this, it is happily recommended by an entire absence of those huge buildings, Scotice lands^ in which, in some of the larger towns, the humbler classes are congregated together in dense masses, producing a physical as well as moral miasma at once pestilential and fatal. Here whole streets are composed of small tenements of one storey, where the weaver, hackler, or other artisan, enjoys his self-contained house, with his little piece of garden-ground behind. The advantages of such a system of do- miciliation are observable in habits of cleanliness and self-respect rarely to be met with in those abodes of wretchedness to which we have alluded. The health is obviously far less liable to be impaired, and a higher standard of morality amongst the inmates may, as a necessary corollary, be inferred. To the dry and salu- brious situation of the town and suburbs then, and to the favour- able construction of the dwellings occupied by the working-classes, in conjunction with the active exertions of the Sabbath-school teachers, and other means of religious and moral instruction else- where referred to, do we ascribe the comparative good health and decency of conduct which, in the midst of much privation, charac- terize, generally speaking, the factory workers in this quarter. Nor, in referring to this subject, should the laudable efforts of ST VIGEANS. 505 the friends of temperance be passed over without special notice and commendation. In some of the mills there are many good and pious men active in the cause of promoting sobriety amongst their fellow-workmen ; and the writer of this hsis great pleasure in bearing his grateful testimony to the growing improvement visible in the habits of the men in his own employment, traceable entirely to the power and influence of the Total Abstinence Society, whose principles are progressing gradually, and which are destined ere long, we flrmly believe, to work a moral reformation in the man- ners and habits of the industrial classes, which cannot fail to be productive of the most beneficial results. To the improvements consequent on the introduction of the Factory Act, some good is also to be attributed, and in nothing more than the necessity which it imposes on all mill- owners to observe the same stated hours for working. In this respect, and the restraint caused bv the medical certificates, and the visits of the inspectors, against the employment, whether from the cupidity of parents or the avariciousness of masters, of children of a tender age more than a given number of hours daily, the act is doubtless beneficial. The hours of labour which it prescribes are twelve for each of the first five days of the week, and nine on Saturday, three- quarters of an hour being allowed for breakfast, and a simi- lar time for dinner. Six holidays are allowed in the course of the year. Children between the age of nine and thirteen are not per- mitted to work above eight hours per day, but of these none are employed in the factories here. Ample time is thus allowed for education before entering the mills; and from the excellent semi- nary recently opened in connection with the church of Inverbro- thock, and other means of instruction, we would fondly hope, though in the present state of trade it is almost too much to ex- pect, that the day is not far distant when no young person will be found within the factories of this place, who has not received the elements at least of a plain education. Low as the fees are, how- ever, of the schools, it is not to be questioned that many well-in- tentioned parents are totally unable to contribute for any length of time even the small sum requisite for the education of their children. We refer more particularly to the children of \ieavers; a class respecting whose condition we shall have occasion in the sequel to advert. With all the advantjiges, therefore, enjoyed bv this locality, as compared with many of the seats of m<^umfac- tures, we doubt of anything short of a national system of educa- 506 FORFARSHIRE. tioD being suflScient to check the crying eril of the children of the poor being cast on the world without religious or even se- cular instruction. In the larger towns there is^ there cannot be any other means of grappling with the demon of ignorance ; and while the Legislature, by wholesome laws, is bound, as far as prac- ticable, to alleviate the physical sufferings of the people, it is not less called upon to attend to their moral and religious training. The GoTemment or Parliament which neglects both incurs a fearful responsibility. With respect to the wages of those employed in the factories herts though considerably lower than they have been, we should say^ thai, looking to age and the preponderance of females, they arc perhaps the best paid class employed in the linen trade, with tho exc^ioQ of hacklers. Spinners, who are all girls of fifteen to about iw^nty-fire years of age, earn from 5s. 4d. to 6s. 6d. per week ; nvlers fn>m 5$. to 6& ; and those in the preparing departments, frvHH ;i^ to 6$^ according to the nature of the work assigned to cAch* The department requiring early and indispensable previous tniinin^ is the spinning. It consists in expertness and facility in uniting brv«ken threads, and which can only be efficiently acquired by the young. In the present improved state of machinery, the lalHMir is bv no means irksome ; and hence it is that it is no un- common thing, in passing through the spinning-flat of a well-con- ducted mill, to find many of the girls employed in reading. Sproaders* feeders, and reelers have a more laborious work to perform ; but the persons employed in these capacities are, for the nuvit pjirt, full-grown women ; and, generally speaking, they are allowoil a longer time for meals and relaxation than the rest of the hands. The whole of the workers men, women, and children, ar\> at lilH>rty to leave their employment on giving four weeks' notiiH\ — in some cases even one week being held sufficient. Hack- lors are jv^id at the rate of •^s. for everj hundred weight of rough tlax which they drt^ss : and it is no unusual thing for a steady hand% with the assistance of an apprentice, whom he allows 3s. 6d. to 5s. 6<1.% to earn L.K 4s. jx^r week. The average wages, how- ever, of this class, including those who have no apprentices, does not perhapa exceed from 10s. to 12s. per week.* In st^xsons of onlinary manufacturing prosperity, and when pro- * lu tho intt'rviU beii the writiog of thU «rtick\ in Januvr 1S42, «nd the Oiuivctii^ of the (>rcv4r<^«rl in iXnoKcr R>lli^in;. « fiuibcr reduction in vages has ST VIGEAN8. 507 TisioDS are cbeap, contingencies which rarely fail to coexist, the wages of persons employed in these factories, with the exception of Uie boys and young girls in the preparing departments, may be coDsidereid as suflScient to maintain them, house- rents being hero comparatively moderate, and fish abundant and cheap; but in periods of bad trade, such as has been experienced during the last four or five years, when wages are low, and bread high, the remu- neration is often inadequate to supply more than the necessaries of life ; and the parents of many of the children being in such times either entirely idle, or only partially employed, it is obvious that DO small amount of destitution knd suffering must unavoid- ably ensue. Such, indeed, is unhappily the case, to some extent, at the present moment; and this brings us to speak of the hand* loom weavers, (and here there are none other,) than whom we know of no class whose labour, even when full employment can be got, is so scantily remunerated. In explanation of this, it seems necessary to take a brief review of the causes which have led to a state of things so deeply to be deplored, and, in a social as well as political point of view, so pregnant with matter for serious consideration. In the earlier stage of the application of steam to manufactures, and even up to a period, as regards the linen trade, comparatively recent, the whole of the yarns spun in the factories were manufactured into cloth at home. 'Jliis in prosperous times required a great num- ber of hands, and, from the facility with which the weaving of or- dinary fabrics can be acquired, the demand was soon supplied, more especicilly in winter, when masons and other out-door han- dicrafts, unable to pursue their usual callings, betake themselves to the loom. An immense number of weavers being thus thrown on the market, it was not difficult to perceive, that any derange- ment of the ordinary course of business, independent altogether of mere temporary stagnations, would seriously affect this numerous body. Such a derangement has at length occurred, in the shape of an extensive and daily-increasing exportation of yarns. It is calculated that already about one-third of the yarns spun in the factories here is exported to France ;* and when it is taken into account, that, since the opening of this new market, no additional mills have been erected to supply the deficiency thus occasioned * A serious check has been given to thit trade by the ordinance of the king of the French, of 27th June, imposing a heavy additional duty on British linens and yarns imported into France. It is impossible as yet to calculate the cooscquenccs of this pernicious measure— October 1842. 503 FORFARSHIRE. in the home raanufactory, it is self-evident that the quantity of cloth produced must have suflfered a corresponding diminution. Here, then, is at once a solution of the partial or non-employment of hand-loom weavers, and, when employed, their low scale of remuneration. At 6rst sight, it is apt to occur to those unconversaut with the matter, that, from the facts just mentioned, the value of the linens manufactured at home would be materially enhanced by reason of the diminished supply. This is not the case. It is well known that some fabrics, at one time the staple of the place, are no longer sought for ; the demand for others is gradually declining. It would appear, indeed, that the demand for manufactured goods is falling oflf in a ratio corresponding to the amount of yarns exported. The situation of the manufacturer is thus daily becoming more preca- rious. It is undeniable, in short, that a change, slow, and it may be to some imperceptible, but not less sure and irresistible, is gra- dually shutting out the manufacturer from markets at one time exclusively his own ; the consequences of which (except to the wealthy capitalist, who is better prepared a little longer to resist the storm,) cannot be other than a few short years of struggling and privation, ending in bankruptcy and ruin. But the mill-owner, it may be said, must at all events be profiting by this additional market for his yarns. The deterioration in value of this species of property of late years unhappily disproves the inference. The principal advantage, in the meantime, arising out of the foreign demand seems to consist in the ability which it gives to the mill- owner of keeping his factory going, which he would otherwise have been totally unable to do, except at an enormous sacrifice. Low prices can alone enable him to command the custom of the fo- reigner, who has heavy charges to pay before the article reaches its destination. To save these, he will doubtless ere long have fac- tories of his own ; and the time is probably not far distant when the spinning trade will fly our shores as the weaving already in a great measure has done. The cure for these alarming evils it would be alien to our purpose to propound; but this much we cannot avoid saying, that any attempt to administer palliatives to alleviate the condition of the present chief and most numerous victims of the revolution to which our staple manufactures are now being sub- jected, will, however philanthropic the intention, assuredly end in failure and disappointment. The axe must be laid to the root of ihe tree, or the poor weaver may hope in vain for any permanent relief from his miseries. ST VIGEANS. 509 Here» at elsewhere, the privations of this class arc sufficiently distressing, and would l>e much worse, were it not for the employ- ment given to their children in the factories. By this means, and owing to the local advantages already referred to, they contrive to subsist ; but when disease and old age supervene, cases of suffer- ing, in its most aggravated form, must and do occasionally occur. Tlie wages paid for the weaving of a piece of linen, which, in 1825, were 17s. 6d., are now 9s. 6d. The fall in the price of canvas-weaving since 1836 has been 20 per cent. At present, a first-class weaver, working fourteen hours daily, cannot earn more than 8s. lid., and a second-class 7s. Id. per week. At the present time, the number of duck-houses, or shops for the weaving of canvas, is twenty, containing 242 looms, with the usual proportion of starching births. These shops arc, generally speaking, low, damp, and ill-aired, which, combined with the long hours the inmates are obliged to work, in order to earn even mo- derate wages, can scarcely fail, with inadequate nourishment, to be prejudicial to health, and hence the squalid appearance of many of the weavers of sailcloth. The linen weavers are differently si- tuated, — these, for the most part, having each his loom in his own house, or in a small shop adjoining, where the air is less impure, and altogether a greater degree of comfort is found ; but they la- bour under the disadvantage of having to provide and uphold their own looms, or to pay rent if belonging to others, which is not the case with the duck-house weavers. There arc two items of ex- pense, however, common to both, namely, for winding and light, and when these are deducted from their scanty and hard-won wages, the pittance that remains is poor indeed. Of canvas- weavers the number at present is about 450, of whom 40 or there- about are women ; linen-weavers, 732, of whom nearly one-third are females. These are exclusive of starchers, warpers, and fore- men, besides a considerable number of aged women employed in winding the yarns. The linen manufacture being the staple one of this district, all or most of the other trades carried on therein are subservient to and more or less connected therewith. There are two works for bleachin g yarns (a few years ago there were four) ; the oxymu- riatic acid or chlorine employed as the chemical detergent being manufactured at the respective works. In one of them the resi- duum, — black oxide of manganese, and sulphate of soda, — remaining in tl:e retort after the gas has been worked off, is 510 FOUFARSHIRE. subjected to the action of fire in a series of shallow pans, by which means it is calcined and converted into an alkali of no great strength, but which serves as an economical substitute for potash. The of- . fensive vapours arising from this process are rendered innocuous by means of a chimney 150 feet high, which scatters to the winds what would otherwise prove an intolerable nuisance. In these works the number of persons at present employed is very inconsiderable. The average number is about 15 men and 25 women, — the wages of the former being from 10s. to 14s. per week, and of the latter from 5s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. Besides these there is another bleaching work in the parish, of which it may be proper to take notice here. It is named Waukmills, and is situated on the Brothock, three miles from the harbour of Arbroath. Being intersected by the railway to Forfar it enjoys all the advantages of a cheap and ex- peditious means of communication with the town. It gives em- ployment to about five men and ten women. Here also is a mill for grinding bones, &c. for manure. Next to the bleaching works may be mentioned the plash-mills for milling brown yarns, and beating-mills for beating or softening the yarns used for weft. There are altogether three sets of plash and beating mills, — one of them driven by water power, consist- ing of a slight fall in the mill-lead, which, descending from nearly opposite the manse to the dam of Ward mill, belonging to the community of Arbroath, and thence to the southern extremity of Inchmill property, there returns its waters to the BrothocL This mill-race, running through the premises of the bleachers and yam millers, affords an excellent supply of water for washing the yams and other operations. When canvas or linens are about^to be shipped either for the home market or exportation, they are generally callendered, that is, passed between and around the cylinders of a powerful engine of cast metal, called a callender, which smooths and gives a gloss to the cloth, similar to the household mangle, but of course much more ponderous and effective. By the lever-power attached to this machine, the cloth passing through it can be stretched in a greater or less degree as required. In connection with these public cal- lenders, there is invariably found the hydraulic press, which is em- ployed to compress into compact bales of different sizes and shapes the cloth and yarns intended for shipment, — the saving in freight from being thus tightly pressed being considerable, especially when the goods are destined for far distant countries. These callenders ST VIGBANS. 511 tnd presses are all worked by stecim, giving employment to about 15 men. Id a place thus abouoding with factories and other works, it may be infiBrred, that the services of mill-wrights and machine-makers must be constantly in requisition. The number of these, however, •part from the mills, is not considerable. In each factory there ii a shop containing all the implements requisite for repairing the Tarious machinery, and a set of mechanics, regularly bred as mill- wrights and machinists, forms a part of every establishment. Be- tides these, there are two works appropriated exclusively to the making and repairing of driving geer and mill machinery of every description, with the exception of steam-en^nes. The average number of men employed therein is about 25, whose wages run from 18s. to 17b. per week, with seven apprentices from 4s. to 78. 6d. There is only one foundry in the district. It is on a large scale, giying employment to 32 men and boys. The castings consist chiefly of stoves and other articles for the use of the settlers in Ganada^ to which country an extensive supply is annually export- ed. Attached to this work is a set of furnaces for making coke for the locomotive engines on the Dundee and Forfar Railways. In a previous paragraph, the Wardmill was incidentally referred to. It consists of a building of some extent, with the requisite appendages for grinding wheat and oats. It is driven by a water- wheel, the water being supplied from the dam formerly mentioned assisted in seasons of drought by a steam-engine of six-horse power. This property) though, like the rest of the parish, situ- ated without the royalty, belongs to the town (corporation) of Ar- broath. The present rental is L.231 per annum. On the east side of the dam was, and still in part is, a hill consisting of sand and clay, the foimcr of which is being constantly taken away for ship's ballast and other purposes. A brick- work has been formed of the latter. In the course of a few years, the entire hill will be demolished, when a ]ilain of considerable extent will be formed, and thus will be converted into a valuable piece of ground, what was not long since an unseemly mound surmounted with a few stunted trees. Having thus noticed the principal manufactures in the suburbs of Arbroath, it only remains tu state, that, in addition to those mentioned, there li is the sea fishing, carried on by the villagers of Auchmithie. Salmon-fishing has been tried on the shore by stake and bag nets, but never so successfully as to clear the expenses. In the white fishery, there are twelve boats employed, containing five men each. It would be difficult to ascertain the weight of fish taken by each. The cod are taken by contractors, at prices from 5d. to 7jd. for each of full length, that is, seventeen inches from the breast fin to the root of the tail. Under that size they are only half price. The higher price is the winter one, and the lower the summer. The former are salted and barreled ; the latter are chieflv salted and dried.* The number of cod fish caught, from October to the end of February 1840, 1841, was 10,268; and the number from the be- ginning of March to the end of June, 8702. 'inhere were for- * PriTBie families obtain from the contractor, cod, per favour, at Is. or Is. 6d. ao- eording to the season. 514 FOUFARSHIRE. merly, as stated in last Statistical Account, great numbers of lob- sters taken and shipped to London (I69OOO in a season); but the breed has been much exhausted, as now, not 1000 are got during a-year. Haddocks are taken in great plenty, and are either smoked and taken to the Dundee market, or sold fresh in Ar- broath and through the country. Their price, for full size, varies from lOd. to Is. 6d. per dozen. Skate and halibut are also taken ; the latter are sold by weight, at Id. per pound. Almost the whole boats annually depart to the north, on the second week of July, to the herring-fishing, where they remain for about six weeks ; and each boat contracts for 200 crans, at prices varying between 9s. and 13s. per cran, with two bottles of spirits to each man weekly ; and most of the boats, for a number of years, have made up their number of crans. Their bait for white-fishing is dragged for in the mouth of the Tay, or purchased from the lessees in the mouth of the Eden, and deposited among the rocks near their own village, till required. The fishers are a stout, healthy, and generally sober people. The pilotage of the entrance to the Tay, however, threatens to introduce the employment of their money with less^economy and sobriety than formerly. V. — Parochial EcoNOMy. Ecclesiastical Slate. — The parish church is of the old Anglo- Saxon order of architecture, with nave, and arches, and side aisles. Besides being dedicated to St Vigeans, St Sebastian also had a chapel in it, which was supported by a small mortified sum. It is built beside the Brothock, on a rock of the soft variegated sand- stone formerly described, which evidently had been left when a more powerful stream than the present flowed through the valley. There are similar rocky knolls in the same glen, and at the mouth of the Lunanand Elliot. In the churchyard, there formerly stood a large cross over the grave of some person of eminence, richly carved in hieroglyphical figures of the kind found on sepulchral stones in some other places of Scotland. The cross has been long ago demolished, but the stalk remains, with characters at the base, hitherto undecyphered. There is a square tower by way of spire at the end of the church, once, no doubt, a sanctuary for of- fenders. It had three stories, and is said to have accommodated the oflSciating monk during his turn of service in the church.* * The teinJs of this parish were granted by William I., with consent of Hugh, Bishop of St Andrews, to the Abbey of Arbroath, being the first grant of teinds m> BT VIUEANS. * 515 The church of Inverbrothock was built in 1828, and opened in October 1829. It cost about L.2000, and is seated for 1280 sit- ters. The principal heritors and the town council of Arbroath were the principal subscribers to it. The stipend secured to its niinitfter is L.150, with L.20 for communion elements. The mi- nister of this church and his session have the superintendence of the poor within their district. The proprietor of each pew has a vote in the election of a minister, but the leet proposed to them is selected by the five managers. The church of Ladyloan is in Arbroath parish, but there are 842 persons of the district allocated to that church within the pa- rish of St Vigeans. Within the parish there are only two Dissenting meeting- houses; one belonging to the Original Constitutional Seceders, and another to the Methodists. The village of Auchmithie and neighbourhood employ a preacher of the Established Church in a small chapel there. The late Countess of Northesk being de- sirous of more effectual means of spiritual improvement, and of the accommodation of the villagers, built this chapel in 1S29. On account, however, of some hesitation of connecting it wholly with the Established Church, it^ was not opened till 1834. At that time, worship continued in it regularly on the Lord's day for nine months, when it was again shut, and only opened for the pa- rish minister at such times as he could oflTiciate. This continued till December 1840, when the villagers obUiined a preacher to of- ficiate in their schoolroom, who, after some time, was admitted to the chapel, with the understanding thiit the privilege should only be from week to week during the pleasure of the proprietor. Persons of Establishtsd Church, St Vigciim, , 2;J97 Inveibrothock, 3498 Ladyloan. 612 TvUU. 6507 Communicants of do. 1124 1357 290 2771 EpiscofMlianS) United Associate, 20 60 153 424 7 69 180 553 Constitutional Soccdcrs, 47 92 5 144 Congregationalists, Relief, Methodists, ... 8 10 6 61 a)8 103 3 18 10 72 386 119 Baptists, Glassites, ... 5 31 16 8 36 27 Roman Catholics, 3 62 2 67 Of no denomination, 40 103 143 conferred ; and St Vigeans being the parish in which the Abbey was built. The church of St Vigeans would appear from its style to have been built long before. The gift of the teinds, however, displeased the bishop's successor Roger, and a settlement was made by arbitration with the abbot, when the tcinds were confirmed to the ab- bey in the year of the birth of Alexander, William's son. In the fifteenth century, the whole lands uf the parish belonged to the ul)l>ey, excepting InverpcflTer. 516 ' FOHFARSHIRE. The average numbers who communicate at any one time in Che parish church and in Inverbrothock are about 800 in each ; but in St Vigeans district, there are, besides, about 245 communicauts, who communicate in seven neighbouring parishes. The stipend of the parish minister was augmented and modiGed in 1819, and is 17 chalders, old measure; or 5 quarters, 5 bushels, 3 pecks, 1 gallon wheat; 12 quarters, 1 peck, 1 gallon bear; 84 quarters, 5 bushels, and 1 gallon barley ; and IdO bolls, 1 fir- lot, 2 pecks oatmeal, with L. 10 for communion elements ; amounting on an average of late years, by the fiars prices of the county, to about L. 260. The manse, offices, and garden wall were built in 1817, at an expense of L.700, and are every way suitable for the accommoda- tion of a minister. The glebe, which was described by a prede- cessor as one of the worst of the county, contains about seven and a- half acres imperial, and, in general, is not unproductive* Education. — There are seven schools in the parish, five being within the St Vigeans district, two in Inverbrothock, and one in Ladyloan. One of these, though in St Vigeans, was built for Inverbrothock by subscription, and by aid from Government, during last season, and is large and handsome. The parish schoolmaster's salary is the maximum. He enjoys, besides, a mor- tification of L. 20 annually, for teaching five poor scholars, ac- cording to a bequest from Mr Colville, late town-clerk of Arbroath. The fees may amount to L.40, and his emoluments as session- clerk to as much. He has, besides, a commodious house and gar- den, the former of which was built about twenty years ago. The number of scholars generally attending the seven schools is about 790. The number of those who cannot read at all, above twelve years of age, may be reckoned about 80 ; but of the laborious classes of society, the number who can only read so as to understand but very imperfectly what ihey do read, is much greater than is sup- posed. I should think, from what I have experienced in commu- nicants before their first admission to the Lord's supper, that one- seventh of the peasantry is not too high an estimate of the pro- portion in this class. Savings Bank. — There is no saving bank for St Vigeans, dis- tinct from that of Arbroath, and the accounts of the two parishes are so intermingled that the exact amount of deposits from each cannot be ascertained. But assuming that one-third of the depo- ST VIGEANS. ^1-7 sitors is from St Vigeans, the deposits would stand as follows, which cannot be far from the truth. * Depositcil. Withdrawn. Total in Bank. Depositors. 18S8, L.1660 L. 1448 L.2487 299 1889, 1928 1755 2660 :\[\0 1840, 1790 1727 2710 308 1841, • • 2732 318 Poor and Parochial Funds, — For some years at the end of the last, and at the beginning of the present century, an assessment for the maintenance of the poor became necessary, by the exhaus- tion of the usual charities. It was, however, only about 1812 that assessments became constant. The annual expenditure on the poor on an average of three years, was then L.258, 12s. of which 8um» L.9d, Ss. was raised by assessment. From that time to the present, the amount of assessments has gradually increased, and the average of the last three years is as follows : Raised by assess- ment, L.508^ 14s. 5d. ; church collections, L.13*), IBs.; mortifi- ed sums or legacies, L.18, IBs. 5d. ; seat rents, proclamations, mortcloths, L.30, lis. 7Jd. ; paupers' effcctSj L.6, lls.5d. ; total expenditure on the poor, L.69B, 13s. lOd. The assessment has hitherto been raised on the landed proper- ty alone, according to the old valued rent. The number of pen- sions paid to the regular poor and to the occasional is as follows : To the regular poor on the roll, 163; occasionally receiving pa- rochial aid, 30. The sum expended on the former amounts to L.647, 16s. 6d. ; so that each pension on an average is L.3, 19s» 7d.; the sum expended on the latter was, L.50, 17s. 4d. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account was written, the population has nearly doubled, the landed rental tripled, the staple manufac- ture of the suburbs of Arbroath, — the spinning of flax yarn by ma- chinery — has been created, the thrashincr-mills are tenfold in num- ber and power, the turnip and potato husbandry immeasurably extended, the fishing boats of Auchmithie doubled. No proprie- tor then kept a four-wheeled carriage ; now seven do so. The dress, food, and accommodation of all classes are much superior ; what were foreign luxuries then, have now become necessaries. The funds for the support of the poor were then L.70, now they are L.700 ; the former sum was then accepted with humble thanks, the latter sum is craved with murmuring. Loyalty, according to the writer of that day, was fresh and vigorous, now the suspi- cion of all power lies deep and rankling. Parents then supported 518 ' FORFARSHIRE. their children, now multitudes of children prove the support of their father's family. To be without the profession ofreligrion was then a contemptible singularity, now it is very common, and little marked. Drawn up January 1842. Revised October 1842. PARISH OF CARESTON. PRESBYTERY OF BUECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. DAVID LYELL, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Sfc. — Many centuries before the erection of this parish, the lands of which it consists are said to have taken their name from Caraldy a Danish leader, who, in his flight from the battle . uf Aberlemno, was slain, not far from the present farm-house of Nether-Careston ; and, in order to perpetuate the memory of this achievement, his victors raised over his place of sepulture a bar- row, and on it erected an obelisk, named from him Carald-stane, or Carald's-stone, contracted afterwards into the more modem term Careston. The obelisk has long since been removed, but the barrow yet remains.* Others derive the name of this parish from the ancient but now disused Celtic word caraldy which at one time denoted the quality red^ as being the colour of the rock which forms the middle portion of the subsoil of this parish. But if so, why should the compound word Carald-stone be formed from both the Gaelic and Saxon languages instead of that of the fornier alone, and then it would thus have been expressed Feam-caraldy rock-red ?f It may still be added, that at one time this parish * See the Topography of the River Tay, by Mr James Knox, p. 1 15. f Fearn in old Gaelic signifies rock. See the Quarterly Review for NoTember 1831, and January 1832, p. 349. In the Gaelic tongue, the adnoun is always placed uQer the noun to which it refers. That fcarn signitied rock in former times appears to be farther borne out from thifl term being applied to the Fearn Isles, or rocks on the coast of Northumberland, on one of which (Longstone) the worthy family of Darlings reside; North Faro or Ferro, beyond Shetland ; and Ferro, one of the Ca- naries. Our neighbouring parish seems, too, to have had its name of Fearn, from its subsoil of rock, which crops out from the ground in the vicinity of its church. There is also a parish in the north named Fearn or rock. CARESTON. 5l!) bore the name of Fuirdstone, or Fordstone, from the number of good fords iu the Esk, that exist yet in this district.* Boundaries^ Figure^ and Extent. — This parish is bounded by those of Menmore, on the north ; Brechin, on the east ; Aber- lemno, on the south ; and Tannadice, together with Fcarn, on the west. Id figure, it forms an irregular oblong, stretching out in length to about 3 miles from north to south, by 1 in breadth from east to west. On two sides, the boundaries are pretty regular and straight, but on the two ends of the oblong, the limits are more irregular, more especially to the south, where, in two dilFerent places, they pass beyond the river Southcsk. The parish con- tains a surface of nearly 3 square miles. Agreeably to^a mea- surement made, about eight years ago, by Mr William Corsar, land-surveyor, this parish contains upwards of 2056 acres sta- tute measure. Formerly, it contained perhaps about 100 impe- rial acres more, now belonging to the farms of Balnabriech and Craigend, which farms, though they both belong to the estate of Careston, are yet situated in the parish of Brechin ; conse- quently, whatever ground was lost to Careston parish by the straightening of the marches of these farms, was so much added to that of Brechin, where this latter parish unites with Careston. From the Southesk river, which, for a small way, forms the southern limits of this parish, it rises with a gentle undulating swell to near its northern termination, and then begins to decline as it stretches farther north to its termination with the lands of Balhall, in Menmore parish. Here, the boundary is by no means distinct, which it might easily have been made by following the course of the small rivulet of Wiras westward as far as the parish extends in that quarter; as this same streamlet, where it leaves the parish on the east, forms the parochial boundary on the north-east The climate is on the whole good, the air being, for the most part, pure and salubrious. • ITic present iiicuml)ent Ikis in bis ))ossession a decreet uf valuation o\' ilie teinds, of dutc 1768, wherein the lands of Carebton arc designed hy the name uf Tuirdstune, ill the fullowing manner: " All and whole, these jiarts of the lands and l>arony of Careston, uVutt Balnanioon, ))articularly after specified, viz. the lauds and barony of Caraldstonc, formerly called Fiiirdstone, with the tower, fortalicc, manor-place," &c. The tower of I'liirdstone referred to was situated on the farm of Wester Balna- briech,and its remains were removed by the late tenant in the course of his improve- ment of the above f.irm. It is not unlikely that the fore-mentioned tower and other Imiidings therewith connected constituted the first man&ion-houKc on the crtate of (.'areston. 520 FORFARSHIRE. Hydrography. — There are several small brooks in this parish^ all of which take their rise in it from copious fountains of excel- lent water. Some of our springs are chalybeate ; and two large ones, in the northern part of the parish, in a slight degree partake of carburetted hydrogen gas, which is indicated by large and nume- rous air-bubbles rushing up in the fountain along with the water, Erery where wo have plenty of good spring water for domestic use. The pure streams of the Noran and the South Esk flow through and unite together in this parish.* The water of the former is so {peculiarly lim|>id, that there is yet a tradition that one of our queens in olden time, washed her curtch or cap in its stream, near Uu> place where the farm-house of Nether Careston is now situ- ateil, and pronounced the Noran to be the clearest stream in Scot- land. The South Esk, too, is a clear water, sparkling with a luiUl ot^rtiloan tint« yet it cannot vie with the stream of the singu- Urlv |H'»Uucid Noran. Both, for a great way of their course, flow \^xv^ ^ bi^ of either rock or gravel, and hence the purity of their ^'\%M\^l ^\\\\ A prt^ttY considonible lake in the upper part of the parish, Nsliioh mi|*ht nearly bo ci>nverted into arable ground ; at least, about iorty aviV8 unght Ih' thus reclaimed. Indeed, it appears highly pixklmblo, from the general show of the ground itself, that a large ps^rtion of the haugh land on the side of the Esk had, at one time» oon>tituttHl a lake of considerable magnitude. ( ii^^Av/v und MiHtrtiloQy. — Almost the only rock here is the old >;uuistono« of a pretty dark-reil colour, and tolerably hard and holid in its toxiuri\ A riK^ of frequent occurrence is by some oonxulorod to Ik^ lias. \\ forms a cvnisiderable part of the sub- noil of the middle |K>rtiv>n of the parish; that to the north of W hoin^ till or diluvium : whoro:v5 in the more southerly district, the nulwod i>i ^Miorally gravel mixed with sand. In the till the gravel \> oonunouly nnxod with co;irse clay or mortar, and is very reten- tive of moisturi'; but the case is quite different in this respect in the stout h end of the i>arish. There, in the haugh land, the sub- * \\\ \\w SuiImuvU AvWHutt «>f TaiuvidiciN (wi^ 199» it is suted that both the ii)««»\«' Mi^Niuia umt« in th«t |Mti^h« whrfiMs tbev fbrui th<.ir junctioo about a mile I'm UnM r§ Scgctum Tadorna ■ — ■ Doschas Strepcra ferhia —..^ Quurqucdula Crecca - Penelope Lnius caiuis — ridibundus - muriiius - tridactylus Sterna birundu Sterna niinuta Colymbus glacialisQ stellatus Uria troile . grylle Podiceps minor - cornutus IV.— Gkai.l/e vel Rali .k. Ardea mnjor — — stellar is Tiinga cinerea Totnnus bypoleuecs - — r — glottis - ocbropus Vanellus cristatus Numenius arquata * One mole was got. here last spring, pure white as the new-fallen snow. •f One of the long-eared kind was blown down, along with the church belfry, in the great storm, 11th October 1838, and held fust by one of the large stones. Tbv incumbent freed it| when it flew back to the church : being caught by its tail, it was uninjured. X Tbcviood-chat, Lanius CoHurio^ has been repeatedly seen here by the incumbent. § It may here be mentioned, that a pair of wild geese formed an association with a flock of tame geese belonging to Mr Skene, who caused great care to be taken of them, insomuch, that they were regularly fed and housed, along with their domes- tic associates ; with these they wintered for several years, and as regularly departed during the breeding season, and again returned to their former companions by the end of autumn, but unaccompanied with their young. On the other hand, some tame ducks belonging to the farm of Nether Careston, on being repeatedly seared from the i?oultry house by dogs, first grew timid, and at Ust became quite wild, and flew away altogether. Afterwards, they were repeatedly observed flying about in the air like ordinary wild ducks ; and at no great distance, some ducks quite light-coloured, like tame ones, have been sprung from marshy ground in the midst of a covuy of wild ones. H A specimen of the Colymbun glaclatlsy or emher^goose of Bewick, was shot here on the 21 St October 1839, by the gamekeeper of Colonel Swinburn of Marcus, in this vicinity. 524 FORFARSHIUE. Numeuius Phcopus Scolopax Rusticola " • Gallinago Gallinula — — calidrit Charadrius marinellus ■ hiaticula Hsroatopus ostralegua Fulica vel Gallioula chlo- Emberiza nivalia ropus __ Miliaria Fulica atra, Tel gallinula —i.—^— Citrinella Rallus crex ~* Schoeniculus — > aquatictis Crex Porzana Bombycilla garmla Saxioola QSnanthe nibetra rubioola Loxia curvirostra Enucleator '- pyrrbula — chloris Motncilla siWia bortensia Parus m^jor ■ ■ ■ caeruleua — — ater ■ eaudatus Hinindo urbiea npariA apus nycticbilidon Eu- V.— -GALUNiB. Perdix Coturnix Tetrao tetrix Pbasianus Col FriDgtlla domesticus Coccotbraustes — >— Cbloris Coelebs f ropaeut Amfhibia. Rana temporaria — - esculenta ^— - bufo Carduelia Spinus Tulgaris aqiiatlca Tel Triton TT.— Passerks. Columba ^nas — palumbus Alauda arvensis — ^— pratensis arborea Anthus trivialit Sturnus vulgaris Cinclus aquaticus Turdus viscivorus — — — - musicus >— — — > iliac us ■ pilaris — ^— ^ torquatus — Merula palustris Sylvia pbenicuperus Piscsa. cannabina, vel Anguilla communte Linaria vel Lioota Petromyzon marinus Motacillaaccentomodularis — » fluviatilis salicaria Boarula ^ flava alba • atricapilla • rubecula ' curruca • troglodytes • trochillus curruca salicaria sibbilatrix braucbialis Cottus Gobio Perca fluviatilis Gasterosteus aculeatus Cobitis barbatula Sal mo Salar — albus TrulU — Fario ~->— Tbymallus Cyprinus Pboxinus Insects^ Worms^ Testacea, — Of this numerous, diversified, and destructive race, we have many kinds, which it is quite unnecessary to specify. It may, however, be observed that of betles, we possess a great variety ; — from the Scarabeus melolonthay the cockchafTer, down to the CurcuUo granarius^ or weevil, so destructive in grana- ries. Among these, it may, however, be noticed concerning the Coc- cinellcBy or lady-bird kind, that the juice of these insects, when crushed and applied to a carious tooth, is said to give relief, if not to cure the toothach. It also may be stated, that the Cimex America^ nusy or the American bug, has lately come, or rather been brought, in some occult way, to the gardens at the house of Careston, and there proved most injurious to the fruit trees. Both in gardens, and even in our fields, we are at times annoyed not a little by different kinds of slugs, LimaceSi more especially by the Limax agrestis^ the small gray one, and by the IJmaxJlavus^ the amber- coloured slug. Among the Vermes or worms, we have that rather uncommon one, the * This last Motacillce or cbats are here termed Colchrates. t Fringilla Coelebs species (vulgo, cbafl!nch or shilfaw), are here very numerous, Fringilla sylvia pbenicuperus species, (vulgo, the redstart or rose-linnet), are not near so numerous as the chaffinch. CARESTON 525 Gordius aquaiicuMf or hair-eel, found in fountains and ditches. Some time ago, we had the Hirudo sanguisuga^ medicinal leech, in two of our small lakes or rather pools, but the creature has since disappeared. Of the Bivalve shells, we have yet the Mya MaryarUiferOf or fresh-water mussel, in which pearls of some size are occasionally found ; and in some of our pools and stream- lets, there is to be met with the Turbo funtinalis^ or fresh-water wilk, whose shells form a great portion of shell marl. The sub- stance of the Julus terrestris, or millipede, of which we have great plenty, is considered to be of service, when taken inwardly, as a re- medy for jaundice. Botany, — In a pool at Bracklawburn, and near the late farm- house, there is found that very rare plant, Stratiotes aloidesy or the fresh water soldier, discovered by the Rev. Mr Haldin of King« oldrum. We have, likewise, in a similar situation : — Trifolium palufttre vvl Me- Agrostis stolonifcra nyanthes trifoliata Sparganum ramosum £riophorum polystachion IrU Pseudaconis Rumex aquaticiis Arundn pbragmitcs Parnassia palustris Ilytlrocutylc vulgaris Veronica nnagallis scutellata Galium palustre* album boreal c Ranunculus nquaticus bulbosuR Calthn palujitris Pcdicularis palustris Rumex paludosus Drosera rotundifolia Geuin rivale Pcdicularis pratensis Ilottoiiia palustris In meadows and moors, we meet with. Ordiis Morio puq)urca, Inula pulicaria Luteola reseda Veronica serpyllifolia Linum catbarticum Lychnis Flos cuculi Oeum urbaneuin Trollius Curopeus Hyacinthus non-scriptus There grow on the path sides : — Euphrasia officinalis Marrubiuin vulgarc Agrimonia Eupatoria Viola inodora Dianthus deltoides Fragaria sterilis Diantbus arenarius Empetrum nigrum Primula vulgaris, /i vcris In our fields, there often are to be found : — Agrostemma Gtthago Centaurea Cyan us LitlKM)>ermum arvense Papaver somniferum Lolium peienne Arctium Lappa Ranunculus hederaceus Rumex acetosa _— _ _ Lingua Acetosella, vel Ace* auricomus tose lanceolata Antbemis nobilis Brassica Napus etcampcstris Thymus Serpyllum Sinapis nigra et arvcnsis Mentha Pulegium Chrysanthemum segetum Nepeta cataria I^>ucanthe- Veronica Beccabunga mum Valeriana locusta Tussilago Farfara Lcontodon taraxacum There are found in our woods : — Bunium Bulbocaslanum Geranium sylvaticum Anemone nemorosa Glecboma bederacea Symphytum officinale. Lysiinachia ncmorum Epilobiura angustifolium Vinca minor major Vaccinium Myrtillus Viola odorata tricolor Poterium Sanguisorba Silene inflata Cbeuo^K>dium Bonus Hen- ricus Veronica Chama^rys Fragaria vesca Rubus fruticosus idseus Juniperus communis Ligustnim vulgare 826 ■ About hedges : — Ulmm cBRipettrii ... Lathjrui ijWitieui GBianiuni robrtcisnum Od the banks of tho Noran and our brooks, we havc: — =-1 ' Niroiasui rscudo-Narcistut Spinea Ulmaiij CampanuU glun And on their higher banks, we have HoM EgUnterim Anihonnthuni odoratum Ligusticum acolienin cinina VeroDica officinilis Lysimschia vulgarts arveniis montana Inula Halmium On the banks of the Esk, besides some of those already men- tioued as belonging to the Noran, we find the Tusiilago petaaitis Ligunicum vet Athamanta Valeriana officiiialii* Scilla Tcrna Meum Sambucua £buli».t Lychnii dioica Not a few plants that properly belong to the upper coun- try or Highlands are to be met with on tlie banks, or rather low sides of Esk, being brought there in times of great floods, when the river overflows its ordinary channel. Before con- cluding the article of Botany, it may be stated that the Ge- ranium pt/renaicum is said to be a sovereign remedy for the disorder St Anthony's Are, it being used both outwardly and in- wardly ; and thai Senecio vulgarU, mixed with Anthemit arvensis, and boiled either in milk or in water, is then to be used as a lotion for removing a dead lump : Also that an equal mix- ture of Digitalia purpurea and Conium maculatum, boiled to the consistency of a liniment, to which a pro[)er quantity of hog's-lard is to be added, is said to prove a good remedy fur a cut, nr even an ulcer : Also, that a mixture of Chelidonium majus, with a very little Hyoscyamui niger, and the root of the Polygonum avicu- lare, boiled in a quart of water, along with the whiles of a few eggs, and a very little white vitriol, and then strained, may, after being cooled, be beneficially applied to sore or weak eyes. The Highlanders are said to use tlie Orobui tuberosus, under the notion of averting the pain of hunger ; also the root of the Inula Helenium is said to be good for cows after calvitig. Forest trees, &c. growing here : — Quercue Itobur Sorbus ducuparia Pojiului tremula Ulmun campnCris Ueluls alba Carpinui Uetului Tilia Europsn alnus Ilex Ai]uiruliuni Fagui s, the above ground had been uncultirnted time out of mind, so that the seed of these plants must have rouiaini.-d a very long period dormant in llio earth. II. — Civil Historv. This parish formerly %onjtitulcd a part of that of Brechin ; but, on the abolition of Episcopat-y in IBSfi, when the Episcopal tcinds fell into the power of the Crown, King Charle.s I. executed a grant of such teinds as arose from the lands of whal was then to be t Tb» ii in FORFAR. 628 FOBFAnStHni formed into a aevi |)arisli, thereafter named C Alexander Cumeggy, the proprietor of the aliove lands at that ti Some years ihercafter, when iIiIij same baronet had made i purchase of the farms of Craigend and Batnabreicli, both in t parish of Brechin, aad immediately enstviard uf tlint of Care^ton, the same King e.^eculed an additional grant of the teinda of these last farms in f.ivour of Sir Alexander likewise ;* but, although this new grant was corroborated by the sanction of the ScoU tish Parliament, it seems never to have been put in fbrce,^ probably in consequence of ihe troubles of the latter part of the King's reign, or, if these farms were then for a short season tiniled to the parish of Careston, of which there is now no proof, yet they soon were again reunited to that of Brechin, on the restoration of Episcopacy; and thus Careston, after this re vo- hition in ecclesiastical polity, continued as a. parish, agreeable to the slate of its original formation. Changes of Pmprielors toko held Careston Estate. — Some cen- turies ago, this estate formed a small part of the very extensive domain of the Earl of Crawford, who, for a time, was one of the most potent amongst the Scottish nobility; as, besides many different properties in the south of Scotland, now belonging to the Duke of Buccleucb, and others, and the large districts of Loch- aber and Badenoch, lately forming a part of the Dukedom of Gordon in the north, the Earl held not a few valuable estates both in Angus and Eiffshires. In the former of these he had the three not far distant residences of Edzel, Careston, and Finhnven ; and, when in the south, he occupied Lindsay's Tower or Castle Crawford, in the large barony of that same name in Lanarkshire, from whence he had his title from King Robert IIL in 1397, the same year in which he o?erthrew Lord Wel- ler ou London Bridge, in a tournament on St George's Day, in presence of King Richard II., whereon that prince created him Knight of the Garter. His own sovereign made him Earl of Crawford ; and, in the infeftment of that earidom, he is designed fratri iiosiro ; he being married to King Robert's sis- ter, and daughter to King Robert II. ;| and, in consequence * The present incumbent, »ilh the full concurrence of his heritor, Mr Skene, bad k long proceas with the heritors of Brecliin parish, for tbe purpose of rendering tfas abona aecond grant of King Cbailea valid ; had he succeeded ia this, his nipeud, then but smnll, amounting only to L.70 per annum, irould have had an inercue of about L30. Ultimately the Court of Session decided egsinal hi* claim. CAREBTON. 529 iHieDce to tbe blood-royal, be was permitted to as- PcutDe the mynl arffls of Scotland, as yet appears by their em- T bossment abovo ihu mantel-piece of the chief room in the Castle of Ciireston. Tliinga continued much in the same condition for two generation!!, till David, who was siirnamed the Tiger Eiri, or Earl Beardie, having dared to unite in a rebellious league with the Earls of Douglas and Koss against the interest of King James II.; bis estate was forfeited. Still be ventured his fortuDe in battle with his sovereign's lieutenant, Earl Huntly, at Huntlawbill, in the neighbourhood of the town of Brechin. Here he was overcome, and was so far bumbled as to be con- strained to sue to his conqueror to intercede with the King to reverse bis forfeiture, and repone liini in his estates. This Hunlly undertook, and successfully accomjiltshed, on the hard Conditions of bis granting to Hunlly precedence in dignity, the sheriffship of Inverness county, and the lands of Lochabcr and Badenoch therein situated.* Very long afterwards, during the reign of King James VI., another Earl of Crawford felt into a situation similar to that of bis predecessor. Earl Beardie ; to extri- cate himself out of which, he had to yield a similar sacriKce to Mongo CarneggV] Esq. the father of tbe before-mentioned Sir Alexander Carneggy, and a most eminent lawyer of his day ; by the happy exercise of whose legal acumen Earl Crawford escaped his impending danger; but at the great expense of parting with the lands of Carcston, which thus passed into tbe family of the Carae^gys of Balnamoon. About the commencement of last century, Carneggy of Bal- namoon and Careston sold this latter estate to Sir John Stewart, Bart of GrandtuUy, who, after having been some years in toroudy murdcicd John l.jull, LortI Cbinmis and Slratlimurc, at Ihu inoss uf Bal- ball, ifler which wicked diiKl he durst ncTLT ajipcar ■[ Cuurt during ill Hoberl !!.'■ lifetime. • Earl rrawrord-s 1u»s uf the battle at Drechin is commoiil; ucribed Co ihe dGteo- tion orCollaci?, Iiird of llalnamoon, who, uIoiir with hit rjllowere, gare thuirsidto £u] Huntly'i men in ihu abore contest, — Collacc being prototed with CtawforJ for •oiiiB time before, refusing to confi-r on him tlie Innda of Deuihar, tlien in Crawfurd'* power to bestow. Thi« deKrtioii of Collace, no doubt, had lome effct:! in causing lbs ■bore diamler lo Crawford ; and was acpordiugly punished hy Crawford't afiMward* burning alt the housvs on the csttiie of Bjlnamoon. But a fjr moie fatal JefectioD. at the lame time, luuk place by tlic cleseiiion :^^re-=s>:c. ■ £rini-£ «Uc& he i •je •»;» K inaiBKrHa ie iii«t |lirji'>, wtmU thii eilate unto Oi ae OBWz cf ^^ St^t. lis es4te kxE paned into tbov poBKsn.'s :f :ae Ljeri «r ii;^e ;< ran Ei. and the twdfth oTV IK choc^uu c^ i3tf iicne iimAt, ■hii_ ftva father to sod, bore l£« yeq»7iT» o^ Gkcj^. Mr Sfcrae aeqwed An lalmUe pn^ pern a :bc fauv,^ svur aa^xr : Mqor Skene had two ^b::£^c«». lie cush- f^ v^:^ w HaniBd to ihe ahore lain] of Sk.;oe^ 1^ Ser iconKcr fsicr w ^ Joho Forties of Foveran. Bmc. ^^djK we-? cjffriec at t^ s^ae Wmt, when their father de- tr.uviL is.il ht «>:>J^ ^KtM»:b aif esttu lo eithv of his daiigfa- Wfs ^hi $b:i^-i zrn lAie i «?a. In due time, Mn Skene bore tw lifir ^- ^> rc-cect^T v'bca be this inbefited in r^ht of his KKE^tfr. ki. b ibiz -:;' a^ fcber. W eojijved, from a long patenal £4nKi< lff.v. — 1^ :cT«e ba M«s»s Geotge Skenes vere all eolaec: U: ihkr ii.il iz =~jsai^ Titey «ere aba men of great (sec^oj eQifovtsecu : ia eccsM{necce of vbicb, and the high >:a;u$ ahk'h i^ct ie^r^ed\ fvccpi^d in tfce counties of Aber- «i«n *r;j Fornr. -.h^j tA-k a ^iniisg fan in all tbe public cod- cfr-s ft' :"..e^<» iiin?*. Th* ic-a of ibat Mr Skene «bo was Eisnied :i< M^)or Siec^'t diu^iiier «a$ a great imp rarer if hi? e«aie. In Lis ::3H-. a b^:£r roooe of agricullure came iii:..' w?, su;a ^ :h< clekcirj of -he £;ni>uod before cropping, sj wel! as ;t* ^rr"::-.:i''c if vm?'. h '.itae ; a new aud belter ro- uuji^n of «:.•['<, ir-I -.lie raUirj; if o^-tiient plantjs were all begun i.> l-e ai'.tndtii ;o i> j»?; r-, quisi:e branohe? of hmbandr}-. His o'ljesi i-TP. ihe :>.*t G«Tse Skeco, Esq. was not only ernioe::: for his nr.LiTii'.ii ; .ier.is, L'j: »as aI?o an able liu- 1:1.;?:, bcin; iirs..;.: i;; iho ar.i-ii'::! and Siveml of the modern l.a^ti-iges. He :oi-re*t";:t-.: t'..:> I.i-je and important county r-f Abenieea i:: tJirt^ tiiffert-ut Psr".i.iir.enis. Long afiewardf, he ::^i in ilie Hluso of I'ommor.^ as Men:ber for the Elgin • Ii rcaj be tr;ri:.;.J htr«. il jt, i,.-t ej:V in lie imtcir^ of ilw Mi £aj of Ap:il l&tS. Itwfiii^'ji Mir^:i»>>i yi:.r.iiif^.i:i,:ew.:ii hit irn t. icilcd fbratbiul time on tbe liwa lI L'^rv*:.';:. Jui:rf ibcirhul; CtO^: Aooi Dnci!e> bcfinc (he L'o- i.ToDieri, and on Ib.jr va>t^ (be Ilighl^ij^ AfniJ thjt tber iboulj te o*crul>en tv tki niperiar r.un tvn. itw >tan)iiii> fajll t-T the dmtnt lime uciil be liicutd {.'Bs the riTirr E(t. »iiiiii thiw du-^ ■ bUi-calle (rtiection fiom ibc i.unuing rKcTT.y. Tbe ruvali:! iiniv. afici a f1 ..-It i>»|>iie. resumed their maieh cotlbwardi. srd. in passing BjIc3!rjM>a. bnaLliM.J '.bcio viih Ut bountiful landloid ; Tut *hiib hi'^iuUty, lh»( good man was fined bj ili.s.- ihi-D in power. CABESTON. 531 Id {wlitics he whs a Whig of ilie old Ml, littoral in hii views nnd conduct, and most steady 8 party. He v-ia Indeed a generous and humane man, and t much pleasure in doing good to his fellow-creatures, by pa- tronizing the dee -j man Castra stativa .^sicai or a camp on the Esk, and dittiint from that on the Tay thirteen Roman miles, equal to twenty- one English, was situated in this parish, near the inSuz of the Noran into the Esk, so as to command a ford over this latter stream ; and perhaps the farm of Gateside took its name from the Roman station .^ica, as forming a gate or port to and from the river ; and there is yet in the vicinity, a house named Ward-end, which might possibly refer to some lesser fort connected with the former one. As already stated, there is, on the field adjoining the farm- house nf Nether- Careston, a barrow, which is believed to have been thrown up to perpetuate the slaughter and burial of the Danish chief Carald, from whom this estate and the parish long afterwards took its name. Under this head, may be mentioned the Castle of Carerton, the main part of which building was erected, about 440 years ago, by the Earl of Crawford.* The same nobleman, according to tradition, was also the builder of Finhaven, his chief residence, when in this part of the country. The west wing, which is evi- dently the oldest, is said to have been built by one of the Cameg- gy family, and most likely when they came into the posses- sion of the property of Careston. The east wing is thought to have been built by Major Skene, soon after he acquired the estate. Both wings project to a good distance from the main body of the house, but arc connected together by a long lobby in front. Above the mantel-piece of what is now termed the old drawing- room the royal arms of Scollandf are depicted. And below (he royal arms is the following curious ancient inscription, in old Roman letters ; ■ If the hittorUn Buchnnan could here be relied on, be who built Camton Cutla muat have l>een Ihe fiml Earl of CruHfonl, ns he static, thai this dignity wai con- ferred on the faiiiilr of Lindsuf in 1396 ; and he who obtained it. Sir Ddvid Liiidsay of Glenesk. vaa Lillud at Verneil in Fran-e, and buried in Dundee in 1425. Bat in a manusetipl (written by Sir George M'Keniie, Lord Ad morale to Charles II.,) mciilion ii made of a Donilnua Lindiay de Crawfurd in 1367, and of a David l.ind- tay Doininus de Crawford, miles, who is witness to a charter granted by William Enrl of Koss to Hugh Ross his brother. t The royal arma seem lo have been graoted only to the first £arl oT Crawford, or Sir DaTid Lind»y of Gleoesk, as the Crawford fnmily now ba*e other amu. Fwrtli &. In Ilir, Scorne. " ve. In Faklie. Fait. God. Hn. Anign'd. On Mcb side of tlie arms and the above inscription, are two naked men, nearly ftill size, each riding on a lamia, and each hold- ing a double military trophy, supported on a lance, with a flag at top, and on either flag are the letters S, p, f\, n. And above the heads of these riding figures, are those of a naked man and woman, holding in the right hand of the one, and the left of the other, two corDucopis, festooned, and united in the middle by a Fan's head. In the present dining-room, above the mantel-piece, are the £arl of Airly's arms, with the motto, A Faine. On each side of the arms, are two antiquated urns on pedestals, each supported by a naked man, holding the urn in his arms. On the top of each urn, are two entire twined serpents, resting on their tails. Below the pedestals, at some distance, and quite detached, are two very full human faces. Much lower down, on each flank of the pro- jecting fire-place, are two satyrs, a male on the right side, and a female on the left, each in a state of complete nudity. Above what was at one time the grand entrance to the castle, on the north side of the adjoining low buildings, are the arms of Carneggy of Balnamoon. On the front of the castle, and the middle of the main building, are the Gairntully arms. The date above these arms is 1714. Inside the west wing, on the second story, and facing that which appears, at the time when the wing was built, to have been the principal stair, is a group of arms in oval shields, nine in num- ber, and all arranged in the like oval form. In the centre are the Carneggy arms, as already described. On the dexter side, \st. The arms of Hallyburton of Pitcur. 2er talutc ncre. Thete are two thrMhing-macliines in the parish ; one of these, I tlia fHrm of Nelber Careston, was erected forty years ago, and ' IB driTcn by w«t«r ; the otiier, on the farm of Hillhead, is quite D8W, and is moved by horses. Extent of the parish in imperial acres : — Arable Uod, 1422 scrca. PMturcdo. . . aiiQ Wood do. . . 080 W«Mr, 30 State ofCropt, — The cultivation of wheat is now greatly lessen- ed. Wheat, now about 70 quarter. B-rfey. WO pecks of boar or big, or equal to C 1 bolls and 3 lippies of grain. Money stipend from the Careslnn estate, L.24, Us. 3d.; from the Exchequer, L.S2, IDs. 2d,; total of money stipend, L.I07, 13s. 5d. Besides the above stipend, there arc also paid to the inciimbent 4 bushels and 2 pecks of barley from the lands of Balhall, an es- tate in the adjoining parish of Mcnniore, as an equivalent for a servitude over a piece of moor ground. This, like the victual ap- pend, being coAverted at the Gar prices of the county, varies con- siderably. Our parishioners are all members of the Established Church, ft38 P6BFABSHIHE. with the exception of two or tliree Diuenters and_^one Roniaii Catholic. There is, in general, a good attendance on Divine si vice. The average number of communicants fnWs little short of 100. Education. — The school is welt taught The teacher has the legal accommodations, and the maximum salary, yiz. L.34<, 4s. 4d. per annum; school fees, L.18 annually on an average ; emo- lument of the session clerkship on an average, L.2 ; total, Ii.54, 49. 4d. There is also a private school taught by a female, in which instruction is afforded in reading English, needle-work, and knitting. Poor and Parochial Fundi. — ^The whole annual amount of con- tributions for the relief of the poor, is about L. 21 ; of which, about L. 6, lOs. is collected in the church ; the remainder con- sists of the savings of former times, together with the interest of a sum of money bequeathed to the session, as before-mentioned, by the late David Skene, Esq. In all, the sessioual fund amounts to L. 330 Sterling. The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is from six to seven ; and the Bums allotted vary from L. 3, Ss. to L, 4« lOs. ; besides which, small sums are frequently given, when requi> site. Independent of the above assistance afforded to ordinary pa- rochial paupers, and of L. 3 annually to a blind man who has a legal claim on this parbb, of late the session has to pay L. 6 an- nually as board for a foundling. There is also commonly raised yearly, in the way of extraordinary contribution, from L.3 to L.4 in aid of some charitable or religious iostilution. Drawn up Noitember 1839. Rtvised October 1842. PARISH OF MONIFIETH. PRXSBITBRT OF DUNDEE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MK.ABNS. THE REV. SAMUEL MILLER, MINISTER. I. — TOPOGUAPHY AND NaTUBAL HiS Namtt Boundariei, ^c — Monifictli, anciently written Monie- Jkith, Mtttufuit, and Monefut, is a word of Celtic origin, signify- ing " the moss of the sttig." This name must have been ilescrip- ti?e in former times ; for though there is now no " moss," the sandy hnks along the frith cover a deep stratum of il, in which deer's horns have been dug up in considerable numbers: and here, according to trndilion, David I. hiid a favourite hunting-seat. The parish is of an irregular oblong shape, stretching from south to north — the length being about 5 miles, and the breadth varying from 1| to 3^ ; and containing about 9 square miles. It is bounded on the south by ihc Frith of Tay ; on the east, by the parishes of Barry and Monikic ; on the noriii, by Monikie ; and on the west, by Murroes and Dundee. The parish slopes gradu- ally up from the Tay to its northern extremity, being interseclud in the middle by a range of inconsiderable eminences, partly cul- tivated and partly planlcd. The highest eminence is at the northern extremity, 500 feet above ihe level of ihe sea. The extent of coast is about 3^ miles ; it is low and sandy, and the sea is, year by year, making inroads upon it, owing to the double ef- fect of the winds blowing away the sand and raising iho tide. Climate, S^c. — The climate towards the south is so mild and uniform as to be considered one of the most agreeable in Forfar- shire ; and the earhness of ihe crops is always coiispicuous. This district is also peculiarly healthful. Epidemic diseases seldom rage in it, and many of the inhabitants attain to very advanced age. The climate of the northern district is much colder, owing to its greater elevation and itie nature of (he soil. The stream of the Dighty, after intersecting the parish towards the west, disembogues into the Tay, Although of no great size, it is valuable on account 540 PORPARSBIRE. of the mills and works on it. the bleaching ley has effectually scared them away, as well i greatly thinned the numbers and deteriorated the qujlily of the excellent trout in which it previously abounded. Soil. — Rising somewhat abruptly from the. links qd the south, and extending to the eminences in the middle of the parish, lies a tract of land of the richest description, and highly cultivated, pro- ducing heavy crops of every kind, and drawing rents equally heavy. The northern district labours under the disadvantage of a cold and tilly subsoil ; but extensive draining is ameliorating both soil and climate, so that the crops produced yield a fair average return to the cultivator. Mineralogy. — Towards the south, 3 whinstone rock prevails j but along the northern boundary, runs an excellent seam of pave- ment, obviously the same as that which appears at Auchlerhousei Carmyliie, Turin, Kinblethmont, &c. One (]uarry of it is wrought in this parish, with much advantage, on the estate of WelUbank, and two others might probably be opened, — one on the estate of Omachie, the other on (he estate of Kingennie. I'he Well-bank or Legsland quarry must have been in operation for nearly 300 years, as appears from the following entry in the sessional record : " 3d June 1574, Donald Robartsone in Laigislande fand ye Lard of Umoquhy cation, yt, gif ye witnesses convicks hym, he sail pay ane thousande sklaitlis." Zuoliigy. — During particular seasons swans, eider-ducks, great northern divers, and other rare aquatic bird^ visit our coast. Se- veral pairs of ihat beautiful bird, the stock-gannct, yearly build on the links. Quail also used formerly to be plentiful there, but have now totally disappeared. The starling in the south, and the goat-sucker in the woods towards the north, are not uncommon. It is worthy of remark, that, about ten years before the publica- tion of the former Statistical Account, haddocks began to leave this coast, till at last they totally deserted it; but now all kinds of while fish are caught in abundance. Herrings used to be plentiful in the frith ; but, for a series of years, they also have deserted it. Tliey, however, seem to be returniug, as great num- bers have been caught upon the coast this season. During neap- tides, at the proper season, a small but excellent crab is gathered among some shelving rocks in the river, opposite ihc village of Monilieth ; and, on u bank at the mouth of Ihe estuary, called " Drumley sands," a coarse shell-tiKh, named " Drumley buckies," MONIFTETil. ^ria atMindunt. It is eaten by some, but chiefly used by fishermen H M btiil. Porpoises and seals nre common. ■ 1].— Civji. HjaxoEv. Heritort. — The heritors of the parish are twelve in Dumber, of whom the chief are Lord Paomure, Mr Erskine of Linlathen, Sir Jamei Kamsay, &c. MoDiBeth was originally a seat of the Ciildces ; and, when the old church was pulled down in 1812, and the foundations of the present house excavated, some remains of the Culdee edifice were discovered. Towards the end of the twelfth century, Gilbert, third Earl of Angus, gifted the cburch of Monilieth with those of Murroes, Kirrymuir, and Strathdichty, to ibe Abbey of Arbroath. The Culdees of Monilictli seem to have resisted tliis annesallon for a time ; for in the year \'22b, wc find Malcolm fifth Earl of Angus and bis daughter Matilda repeating the grant. The Coun- tess Matilda also added, ajiparcnlly as an alins-gift of her own, the whole land on the sonth side of the cburcb, which, during the lifetime of lier father, was held by the Culdees. Thereafter Moni- 6eth continued to be n dependent church of the abbey till the Re- formation. Indeed, a large yearly revenue was drawn from it ; for the rent-roll of the abbey'ii book of assumptions states the valua- tion of the church to have been in the year 1531 as follows: Money, 20 lib. 13s. 4d. ; wheat, .5 chalders ; bear, 11 chaldcrs, II bolls; meal, 15 chaldcrs, 11 bolls; salmon, 14 barrels. At the visitation of the monasteries, however, in I/iOI-S, by the com- missioners of Privy- Council, the revenues from Monifielh are stated thus : wheat, 4 chalders, 12 bolls ; bear, 1 2 chalders, 9 bolls ; meal, 15 chalders, 10 bulls. In the flourishing days of the Papacy, the parish consisled of four distinct chapelrics; 1. Monitieth, where the present church is situated. 2. Broughty, where the remains of the chapel are still visible on the boundary between this parish and that of Dun- dec. Within tbc memory of man, a considerable part of the fa- bric remained ; but the stones having been found useful for build- ing gradually disappeared, so tliat little mure is now left besides the foundation. The circumjacent cemetery, however, is still in use. 3- Eglismonichty (of which the etymology seems to be ec- chna moHtis Diclity), situated on a crag above the river Dichty, nearly opposite the Mill of Balmossie. This chapel, long previ- ously ruinous, was razed about eighty years ago — the mill just no- ticed built out of the materials, the cemetery ploughed up, the b^nea buried, and a circle of trees eradicated, with the escefitioD ^-12 POKFARSHtnB. . of one venerable plane, which still marks the s bable that this was the church of Strathdicht; gninl nifietb to Arbroath by Gilbert, E^rl of Angus, as aboTe-mon- tioned ; and if so, it is doubtless the same as appears on the Ab- bey's roll of dependent churches under the deajgnation of the pa- rish of SlrathechttR. — i. Kingetinie, in the nortbero district of the present parish, is also mentioned in the same roll as one of the thirty- four churches belonging to the Abbey. The ruinous remains of it were removed about twelve years ago, during repurs made on the farm steading and stackyard now occupying its site. To these four might be added a &fth, once situated in a field at Etbie- beaton, known by the name of " Chapel Dockie." Perhaps, how- ever, this may have been only a private place of worship attached to the castle which anciently stood here, and which tradition con- nects with the name of Cardinal Beaton. When these four re- ligious houses were united into one parish, bas not been ascer- tained, further than that it must have been before (he Reformation in 1560. Parochial Begistern. — The parochial registers have, with some exceptions, I>eea regularly kept for a period of 282 years ; — in short, they commence at the date of the Reformation. They con- sist uf twelve Urge volumes,— one cont-iining the sessional records of about Iwenly years near the beginning of last century, having been lost, though referred to in another volume as extant in 1769. It is to be regretted that the oldest volume is considerably da- maged in some places, :md several leaves are wanting. The ear- liest separate register of births and marriages begins in Jidy IG49. Before this period, baptisms and marriages are regularly engrossed in the weekly record of sessional proceedings. This curious archive commences with a title which is much tat- tered ; but the first entry is partly legible, as follows : " In Apryll ye vi day, 1560, The qlk day, it is appyntit yt our assemblie of ye kyrk of Monefut Sondayat twaefternun at yekyrk, wt prayer unto God for his assistans to do qt may be fordrans to his gloir, and subpressing of Satan and " It will be observed, that the lenor of this entry is similar to that of the bond executed at Perth Id the previous year by the reform- ing congregations of Perth, Fife, Angus, and Mearns, — among which, it will be remembered, that the congregations in and about Dundee are specialty mentioned by historians. It would appear also, that the zeal of the people had been directed against theedi- MONIFIETH. 543 I fioB of llie Pojiish church here, and that it liad under^ne n dis- pifmitliiig similiir to that which overthrew more slately fabrics ; for " the second entry is to this cITect : " Ye quhyik day it is thoicht neceaser be us yat he hous of prayer be mcndit in haist, yat God may bo f^lorafeit yair, — ye expensis to be tayii uqiiolie of ye assem- blie." Two circumstatices seem to account for the people of this parish embracing the Reformation so heartily and so early; \st. The proximity of MoniHeth to Dundee, in and around which George Wishart preaclicd much and successfully ; 2d, Durham of Grange, the most influential individual in the district, and living OD the spot, was a zealous Protcslant, and a near relation of the celebrated superintendent of Angus, — John Erskine of Dun. Erskine, indeed, lived frequently at Grange; and, according to tradition, had, at one time, a narrow escape there from Govern- ment emissaries sent to capture him. We may infer, therefore, that, during these visits, this zealous reformer organized the con- gregation of Monilieth, and that Durham was his hearty assistant in the work. And we know farther, that John Knox lived much with Erskine at this period, visiting and confirming with him those who were favourably inclined to Protestantism ; so that it is not unreasonable to suppose, that Papacy was overthrown in Moni- fieih by the mfister hjind of the Keformer himself. Though some leaves arc wanting near the beginning of the re- cord, we find that a Protestant minister officiated statedly here be- fore the end of the year 1562 ; nor was the parish vacant for any length of lime (as many others were) from that date to this. The present incumbent is the fifteenth in regular succession from tho Reformation. It is recorded, that, on the l<1th of November 1715, " Mr Jo. Ballantyne, minr. here, was violently thrust from his charge by the persecution of the rebels." An Episcopalian was intruded : but Mr B.illanlyne was restored in February of the following year. In 1701, also, the presbytery and synod suspend- ed Mr John Dempster for nonconformity; but, in 1702, lie was reponed by the commission of the General Assembly. Many curious extracts might be made from the old record. The following are esteemed important, as showing the ancient dis- cipline of the church : February 1563, a culprit convicted of « yo presumfulabusand vycofdrukinness," was sentenced by the session to be " brankif, slockil, dukit, and banisit yo heile paris." — " 15th Octr. 156+, Andro Fjndlay and Elspit Hardye ratefeit ye cotract of mariag, and ye sayd Audro proisit to haif ye beleive befor ye 6i4 FOnPARSHIHE. solenizatid of his mariiig, under ye pane of v mark, and ye coandc- ineiits before ye minystmtJo of ye Lord's Supper, under ye pane of utlier V mark." A similar qualification was always required of sponsors before baptism ; and the Lord's prayer was sometimes added to the task I " 6 Apryll 1593, the qlk day, it was statit and ordynit and also derectit before ye sessione, yat all disobedy- ents yat obeyis not the fryst warning suld be put in ye stypyll, and thair remaine the space ane day at the decryt of ye assemblie." From 1570, down through at least a century, such entries as the following are rather common : " Robt Leis compeiril and wes ac- cusit for not communicAling — wes ordeanit to mak his repentans, and pay fourtie sh. of penaltie." The minute of 22d January 1615 ordains the elders and deacons " day about, twa ofyem to- geddcr," to visit the alehouses in time of public worship, and to report those who sold liquor. This custom was observed for more than a century ; many of the old entries beginning " elders fand noD drinking in change- ho uses ;" while sometimes the following is recorded : " ye haill browsters quha sellit aill are siimmonit to compeir, &c." About 1630, several women were excommunicated and banished the parish for " charniyng and witchcrafie." The soldiers of the Covenant seem to have been compelled to their duty by the judicatories of the church, e. g. " 2d June I68if, Alexander Davidsoue being come home fro ye border fro ye -Scotiis armie, under ye regiment of Sir Wm. Blair of Balgilln, hes promissit to relume him&elF thair again, under ye pane of banishment of himself and his wyf out of ye paroi^i, and- to tyne his aiker land yt is sawen, becaus he purchasit not Balgillo his testimonial! to our sessione to teslifye yat he is contented of his reluming to him again." The next is ralher myste- rious:—" 17ih Septr. 1643, Robt. Scott, ye beddell, ressavit V sh. to buy ane pynl of tarr, to put upon the weomen that holds the playds nliouC thair head in the church." * But the next is plain enough, whatever may have been the propriety of a weekly calling of the parochial muster roll, viz. " 28th Septr. Iti45, IJficr sermone, ye uiinr. maid intimatione to ye congrega- For, soon as out (ht^ teic I read, I draw m^ roquclay Tound my hit And, fast asleep. I soon fn' ower j ^H^ltiair nan ^^r ever was at MONIFIETd. 5^5 rreassoiie ye people k«ipt not the kirk on llie Lt>nl's d^iy, r names suld be read out everie SabboCh ddy, tliat mIiosoid- ' ever was absent qn they war callit upon, suld pay twa slilJlings." In 1666^ tbe session exercised a civil power, by taking a precognition on a case of child murder, and prosecuted tlie woman " befor the bailsie of Kerrimure, the pariocb of Monifuith being wtin tbiit regalitie, and did put a guard upou her till she was tilte to be transported there." In 1705, a similar authority was exercised; but, in this latter case, tbe culprit was sent to Edinburgh. Such entries as the ensuing are very common : " )2ib July 1640, He- len Scott ordeanil and actit for her olTence of selander, to kcip ye preiching dayly ; to sitt dayly in ano visible- pairt, qr yc miiir may sie her j and if sho ubeyis not ye samyn under ye pane tlist sbo sail Gland in ye jowgs, and yrefter to be banissit out of ye paroche, if ever she beis fund to sclaundcr any of her nigbbours heirefter, or to flytt with thame." The following appears nmre salutary than practicable: '" 5th Apryll 1646, It is actit, that wbosoevir beirefter sail be fund to drink in ailUbouscs, bying or selling, to remaine longer nor a pynt .till or chapin aill tbe hand* sail pay twa dolors." In 1649, we find I'honias Crawford, quar- ter-master to the General's Lifc-Gnurd, afler much contumacy, obliged to undergo a severe discipline, for cliallengiug the Laird of Omachie to single combat. In December 1649, an individual was subjected to double discipline, for coming " lo ye place of re- pentance wt his sword aboul, and pntiing on liis bonnett." Perhaps the most iiiteresting entry of all (unfortunately much torn) is a long account of tbe "subscryving" of the Solemn League and Covemmt in 1648. Indeed, the whole record, and tbe oldest volume in especial, is full of amusing and curious information, bo- sides throwing much valuable light on the history of tbe district, the manners of tbe people, the state of wealth, the value of la- bour, &c. &o. Antiqaitiex. — Upon the hill of Laws, near the middle of ibe parish, are the remains of an ancient vitrilied fort. A low wallf seems to have encircled tbe whole top of the bill, which is Hal, 1.^0 yards in length, by 66 in breath. Tbe bill itself is a green cone, terminating a long ridge. At the bottom of this cone, spear-beads of iron, with bones of men and horses, have lately • i. t. Pur man. ■f- Fcuplv litill olivv teiiivmbcr uf old rcsictciilcic lelling Ilium, tliol tliey Imcn' it 546 FOUFAR8HIBE. ^7:%£ been dug up. About fifty years ago, two workmen came tfpoil the foundation of a building, at the bottom of the cone, and found a considerable treasure of gold coin. They concealed their prize, went to London, and sold it as bullion. The circumstance after- wards came to light by the jealousy of one of the finders, who ac- cused his comrade of cheating him, as he had received only L.50 as his share of the booty, whereas he had, on inquiry, discovered that the moiety was far more valuable. Of course it is not known that any of the coins were preserved. A mile to the west of Laws is the Gallowhill of Ethiebeaton, where it is said that feudal jus- tice was executed in former times. Tumuli, rude stone-coffins, and human bones, have been found around it. A little north from Linlathcn is a large heap of stones called " Cairn Greg." A bcal chieftain, famous in ancient Scottish story, is said tojhave fallen in battle here. His name was Greg or Gregory ; and the place of his residence, near Colliston, in the parish of St Vi- geans, is still known by the name of " Castle Gory." Numerous other cairns within the circuit of a mile around the principal one, mark the burial-place of the other slain. On the top of a small knoll near Kingennie, is an interesting relic of antiquity called " St Bride's ring." It consists of a circle of stones (large blocks forming the outer rim, and smaller boulders the inner), about 60 feet in diameter. On the eastern side is an entrance several feet in width, having somewhat the appearance of regular masonry ; but the blocks are wholly uncbiselled. It seems to have been a place of worship ; but who St Bride was is not known ; only it is thought that the neighbouring parish of Panbride received its name from the same saint. A few yards north of the glebe, lies a huge block of stone, (supposed four tons weight), having a square excavation in the middle, in which formerly stood a kind of obelisk. This shaft was broken at a remote period. Af- terwards, it was brought down to the church, to replace the lintel of the " queer" door, and, by this means, was mutilated still more to bring it into shape. It is now built into the front wall of the new church. No trace of its origin or object can be discovered. The side now exposed to view is covered with human figures, rudely carved in low relief, of which the most entire is David playing on the harp. Attached to the old " queer" above* mentioned, was an elegant mausoleum of Durham of Pitkerro, *' argentarius" to James VI. All the stones of it, on which there was any inscription, are built into the present church. Besides W^ the old MOMFIKTH. 547 great port of the present cliurcb h built of the matcriiiU uf abbey of Balmerino. That ediKcc mus disiii.intled, and the atones shipped down the Tay, by the seconil Lord Ilalmerino, fiir the purpose of repairing the old church of MoniKcth ; his ob- ject being to save exjieiise, as lie was the chief heritor in the pa- rish. Droughty Castle, situated on a point of rock projecting into the Tay, near the western boundary of the jmrisli,* is an ancient place of strength, well adapted for coinmandiiig the river, which is here only a mile broad, but stretches out to a much greater width both above and below it. The ruins spread over a consi- derable extent; but the only part of the building now rcmainino: is a large square keep, at present used as a signal tower by the coast-guard. Uoece mentions the exUtencc of this stronghold in 1493 ; but the d.ite of its erection is not known. After the victory at Musselburgh, lOth September 1647, the Eng!i>h gar- risoned this castle, as the key of the Tay. In a short time, llie Regent Arraii besieged it; but, after nnich loss, during three months' inefiectual eilort, abandoned the attempt, Ic.iving James Haliburton, the youthful and brave provost of Dundee, to "keep watch, and prevent provisions being carried to the garrison. Next vear the Earl of Argyle made a desperate but fruitless assault on the place. Thereafter, Monsieur D'Essy, who commanded the Scottish army, made a third attempt at its reduction, with similar ill success; and it was not (ill the beginning of Io50, that it was stormed and carried by De Theniies, commander of the allied army of Scotch, French, and Germans. The fortification was immediately dismantled ; but we find that, towards the end of the * A TuIgBr prcjudk-L- slill prtvailt, thai tliis culk' iit ill the pRrisli of Ca|m:li, iicar Dunkcld. The scuiotul rccurd tliows this to t>o wiiliDUt ruunttiition. 'I'hii tata nmd) thui :— A mail, in 16Ta who liad been fisliiug fur lalmcin at the catlle on ■ 8un^. reriLied lu luhmit tu pnriichijl iliwiiiliiiu, on thv |iI«h that tliu oHuiicv vui tominit(Mlmtlio"pariachur Kchbot." Thu profiriiilur n>u«p|ilicd to. wliunatud that hehadKime idea ol'ii^ butoiiijinj; «> Kirriemuir, bul ilial wiiii Capuili it hml nolbing to da Tlieicujioii tliv iiiiitlar wJs rvlerivd to ihu pnibrturj, vlio luil vvidciu'c upon it. After mui-'h paiieiit in r| ui ry. nu ground could Ik iliieuvercd fur aujipotiiix tlu eoatle tu bvlungto an; other luriih : but eiery grou lid fut iti bvlnnifin;; tu Muiiilk'lb vas produced. Thcw arc nienliuncil at largu. 'Che H«ion:il lecUTil oTlSili l>e- ccmber 1G56, inureover, bran witnen. that the eaillu |i3i'l it) igiiiiu li> I he rojiaratiuii of the church. Tliu pnnbytcry found accordingly, itnd the lyiiud cunfirmcd tlis finding in Murch 1681. after the tnaltcr had been Iwfun! the courts n>r nearly three years. Alt purtii'i wcru sulitEiMl ; and iliercaftvr tliu pruprieCur ii iiiuiilionwf ai ap- pearing for ]iis iiiletest nt Bincclinsof heritors in 17"l. 'Hie jiujiulni error B.'euii to have arisen from the cirrumttance of Caputh not being an ori|{inal parish, and. when erected iniu one, receiving ulipcnd from a intiltlluJe of pnriihes around ; iiiid Brougbty may haie been Bsi«s in 1841 . d4()l The rapid increase during late years is doubtless owing to the recent springing into existence of the village of Broughty Ferry, and to the extension into the country of the trade of Dundee; and from both causes it may be inferred, that the increase will still proceed in a large ratio. For, in addition to the public works which have of late been set in operation, others have been con- templated should trade revive; while the railroad from Dundee to Arbroath, which passes through the whole [)readth of the pa- rish, promises to increase the traffic of the di.^trict, and the num- l)er of houses along the line. Indeed, Lord Panmure has begun to grant ninety-nine years building leases on the links of Barn- hill, which begin already to increase the population. And, should commerce improve, doubtless many of the citizens of Dundee will be glad to exchange the smoke and bustle of the town for the fres^hness and retirement of a country villa, from which the rail- road will transport them, at almost every hour, to their business and counting-rooms in tifteen minutes. The situation, the cli- mate, the abundance of excellent springs, the comparative cheap- ness of the soil, and the many facilities of the locality, conspire to render almost certain the anticipation, that a large and respec- table population will soon be set down on what is at present only a sheep-walk and a rabbit-warren. The population is at present thus divided; in Broughty Ferry, 1980; in Monifieth, *250; in Drumsturdy, 190; and in the coun- try, 1041. ml ' Average births per annum, 75; average marriages per do. 27. On the whole, the inhabitants mmon-haul or cobble-nets only can now be legally used. About thirty bands are employed ; and, though the season opens in the beginning of February, little is done till the beginning of April. About twenty years ago, the rent of the fishings was L.1500, when 729 fish have been known to be got during a tide at one station. The rent at last letting was L.d25, and the above number of fish will hardly be got at one station during the whole season. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce annually raised in the parish is as follows : — Wheat, 280 acres at L. 10 ]H;r acre, OatSt 1040 do. at L.7 per acre. Barley, 640 do. at L.8 per acre. New grass, 700 do. at L.5 per acre. Old grass, 700 do. at L 2, lUs. per acre, Turnips, 560 do. at L.6 per acre, Potatoes, 454 do. at L.IO per acre, Fallow, 200 do Links pasture, 926 do. Wood sold annually, at an average, • Salmon fishings,* Produce of gardens, ahout Produce of white fishing (lowest calculation,) Pavement from quarries, &c. ToUl, Manufactures, — Weaving is carried on to a considerable extent in the parish, it being a kind of trade with some to bring the yarn from Dundee, apportion it to the weavers around, receive back the webs, and carrv them to Dundee. There is a large spinning-mill at the mouth of the Dighty, dri- ven partly by water and partly by steam. When in full operation it employs 130 hands. Half a mile farther up the river is an ex« tensive bleaching work, giving employment at present to 90 work people ; but, when enlarged according to the present intention of the proprietors, it will employ double that number. A smaller bleaching work on the river stands idle and unfinished ; and besides these, other works are talked of, which, if trade prosper, will as- suredly go on. In the village of Monifieth a foundry and machine-work are in * In this calculation we have given only the rent, the eipensc of nets, &c. and the wages, since, taking the average of the last five years, the fishings have little more than cleared themselves. L.2800 7280 5120 3500 1750 3360 4540 40 . 150 740 160 5000 unknown L.34,440 552 FORFARSHIRE. active operation. About 100 hands are employed. The busines* carried on is chiefly the making of machinery for spinning-mills. The village has also a cart and plough manufactory, of long es- tablished repute. In Broughty Ferry an establishment for curing cod prepares 400 fish per week for exportation, when the season is favourable. Here also are two roperies, and a foundry, besides breweries, bake* houses, &c« and the several manufactories common in a large village. Several tanneries, a fulling-mill, a lintseed-oil-mill, a bleacb- field on the old system, and a thread-mill, which were in opera- tion during last century, have been discontinued for upwards of forty years. Navigation, — We have no regular harbour in this parish ; but coal and lime ve.<^sels of small tonnage deliver their cargoes all along the coast, — the receding tide leaving them dry on the slop- ing sandy beach. Small vessels are occasionally built at Broughty Ferry, where the nature of the shore permits them to be launched ^i once into deep water. Indeed, on account of the depth of wa- ter, and the natural shelter which would be afibrded for shipping, the construction of a harbour there, for the larger vessels engag- ed in the Dundee trade, has often been spoken of as easy, desir- able, and likely to be gone into at no distant period. And as the railway passes along the very brink of the river, perhaps this may be a cause of the speedy eflfectuation of the project. V. — Parochial Economy. The market-town is Dundee, from which the remotest part of the parish is not distant more than seven miles. A half-yearly market for cattle, horses, &c. used to be held at Monifietb, and the semblance of it is still kept up. Within these thirty years it was of considerable importance ; but of late it has dwindled into nothing. Broughty-Ferry is a large village, containing in all nearly 2200 inhabitants, situated chiefly in this parish, though a small part be- longs to the parish of Dundee. Fifty years ago it consisted of about half-a dozen fishermen's huts; but the proprietor having begun to feu about the year 1790, it started at once into a consi- derable town, and is still rapidly increasing. It presents a clean and neat appearance ; and from the river, the view of the village in front, with the villas of the more wealthy on the sloping back- ground, is very picturesque. The streets, most unaccountably. 1*^ MONIFIETH, 553 are neither payed nor Nfacadamized, so that the blowing of the fine sand on which the village is built, is very disagreeable in dry weather. This place is much resorted to in the summer months as bathing-quarters ; indeed, the population, during three months in the year, is greatly increased from this cause ; and many of the inhabitants, who have rooms or flats to let, mainly depend on this for their support Dundee is chiefly supplied with white fish from Broughty Ferry. Thirteen boats, having each at an average six men for a crew, are statedly employed in this branch of industry ; but during summer, the number of boats employed is considerably greater. Upwards of fifty families depend for support on the white- fishing. Haddock, cod, ling, flounders, soles, whiting, plaice, skate, and turbot, are the fish commonly or occasionally caught; but for two months in summer, most of the fishermen, in larger boats for the purpose, arc engaged in the herring fishery on the northern coasts of Scotland. In the Dundee Police Act, there is a provision for a police to Broughty Ferry ; but as yet it has never be en acted on, though there is good reason for some establishment of the kind. For instance, steam-boats, during the summer months, bring down an inundation of the worst population of Dundee on the Sabbath day. Hence drunkenness and riot, in spite of all moral exertions to put a stop to the evil, are too common on a day set apart for holy rest ; and that, too, in a locality where the inhabitants, in general, respect and prize Divine ordinances. There is a penny-post from Dundee to Broughty Ferry. It is carried by a foot-runner, who goes twice a-day, the distance being four miles. The turnpike road from Dundee to Arbroath transects the pa- rish towards its southern extremity. On this road one mail passes south and another north every day. Three other coaches used to run on this road, but the opening of the railway some years since has put a stop to them nil. The public road from Dundee to Brechin skirts the north-western boundary of the parish ; and about twenty miles of parish roads (some of which are very indiflerently kept) facilitate communication throughout the district. As already alluded to, the railway from Dundee to Arbroath passes through this parish coastwise for nearly three miles. On account of the level nature of the line, the facilities granted by the extensive proprietor, through whose estate it chiefly passes, and for other reasons unnecessary to be detailed, it is supposed this is the cheapest railway in Britain, as assuredly it is of the utmost 554 FORFARSHIBE. advaofage to the interests of the country. By it an additional mail is carried south and north daily. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church stands on the brink of the Tay, at the southern extremity of the parish, and is conse- quently rather inconveniently situated for a considerable propor- tion of the population ; but it is well set down for the contemplated increase along the line of the railway. It was built in 1813, is in good repair, is seated for 1100 hearers, but will contain 1200 with ease. Now that 2000 of the population have been taken away by the Broughty Ferry chapel, it is much too large for the parish ; and yet it is believed that, in a few years, it will be found small enough ; for, exclusive of the Ferry district, the population of the original parish has increased upwards of 400 since that chapel was erected fifteen years ago. In the old church, what was called ^< the common loft" belonged to the session, in lieu of which several pews have been given to the session in the new church. All the rest are the property of the heritors, and given by them to their tenants. The manse is a commodious house, and was built in 1629. The glebe consists of four and a- half acres of excellent land. The stipend amounts to 17 chalders of victual (half meal, half barley), with LflO for communion elements. The only benefaction now extant is a mortification of L.100 Scots yearly, payable from Grange, partly as a bursary for poor scholars, and partly for the behoof of the poor's funds. As hinted above, the village of Broughty Ferry, with a small landward territory around it, was, in 1834, erected into a parish ecclesiastical, having been previously the district attached to the chapel of ease there. This chapel was built in 1826, and a mi- nister was ordained to the charge in 1827. The election of the minister is vested in " the male sitters, being communicants." A bond, given to the Presbytery, secures L. 120 of annual sti- pend to the minister. But when the debt is liquidated this will be increased. The sources whence the stipend is derived are, the seat-rents, and six annual collections made at the church door in behalf of the funds of the institution. The chapel is seated for 720 ; but 300 more seats would be required to meet the wants of the population. For several months in summer, especially when the village is filled with sea-bathers, the want of church accommo- dation is very painfully felt. No manse, glebe, or endowment of any kind is attached to this church. The Rev. David Davidson is the present incumbent. • MONIFIETH. 555 There is a Dissenting chapel in Broughty Ferry. It was built by Mr Haldane, but is now the property of Mr Erskine of Lin- lathen, and given by him to be used as a place of worship in con- nection with the United Associate Synod of the Secession Church. There is, however, no fixed pastor at present ; nor has there been for some time. The distribution of the population among the various Christian denominations is as follows : Church of Scotland in Monificth, 1278. Brougbty Ferry, 1650. Dissenters, . . 152 - • 165 £piscopalians, - - 11 - - 112 Cmtholics, . - 9 - • 13 Unknown, • » 25 - . 86 and the number of communicants in connection with the Establish- ment is about 1300. A parochial Bible and Missionary Society, established many years ago, has some years since been cut down into two, — one in Monifieth, and one in Broughty Ferry, — by which the schemes in which the Church of Scotland has embarked are specially supported. Education, — The total number of schools in the parish worth mentioning, (Sabbath schools not included), is eight; viz. one parochial ; three supported wholly by Mr Erskine of Linlathen (two female schools in the parish of Monifieth, the other, an infant school in Broughty Ferry) ; two partially endowed, the others on the teachers* own adventure. There is besides an excellent school in connection with the church of Broughty Ferry ; but it is situated just beyond the boundary of the civil parish of Monifieth. The ave- rage number of scholars yearly is 490 ; and it may be said ge- nerally, that most of the children who ought to be at school are sent to it, and that the benefits of education are known and appre- ciated. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodations on a very comfortable scale. His salary is L.25, Ids. 4d. per an- num,* and his school-fees average about L.35 more. It is important to notice the exertions made by the Church of Scotland in behalf of education during all her history, but especi- ally before schools were endowed by the authority of Government in every parish. The sessional record gives some interesting in- formation on this head, regarding what was done in Monifieth. * To explain why, in such a parish as Monifieth, the maximum salary has not os yet been given to the sclioolmastcr, it may he proper to mention, tliat tlie heritors pay L.45 yearly in pensioning off the old schoolmaster, who, from age, had become unfitted for his laborious duties. When this burden ends, doubtless the maximum salary will be given. 556 FORFARSHIRE. • The parish appears to have had a "reidar" from the period of the Reformation ; and though it Is not expressly said, some eatries would lead us to infer that he acted in the capacity of schoolmas- ter also. At any rate, on the 18th November 1599, ** Mr Tho- mas Zoung was electit schoolmaister w^ cosent of ye haill assem- blie;" and, on the 16th March 1600, the following provision was made for his maintenance : — ^* Item^ becaus ye guid restan of ye kirk and commonweill dois not litell depend fra ye deligeni up- bringing of the zouth in lerning and vertew. Therefor, for the establishing of ane schoolmaister, ordaynis everie pleuch occupyd be the ownar to paye zeirlie fourtie sh., and be the fermouair 20 sh. ; and everie twa marks restrinit to ane pleuch ; and sic as has no labouring to paye for everie bairnie x. sh." This was, however, either an inadequate aliment, or it was ill paid ; for, as a result of the act of Privy-Council in 1616 (which, unfortunately, was never properly implement^ed), ordaining every parish to maintain a school- master, we find the following: — " 14 Dec. 1617. The sessione considering the insufficiencie of ane provisione to the schoolemais- ter, hes thocht expedient, that of everie baptism he have twa shil- lings, and of everie marriage fourtie d." And again : — " 17 Oct. 1619. As concerning the establishing off the schoolemaister, thocht meitt and aggreitt upon that, for his intertinement, the Laird off Grange sould find him ane quarter of ane zeir, and the minister ane uther quarter, and the rest of ye paroche quha hes baimes sould provyd for him the uther halff zeir." There are other entries of a similar import. A regular schoolroom, however, was not erected till 1656, the Presbytery of Dundee having previously perambulated the parish, and fixed upon a central site for it. When the school was remov- ed to the most uncentral locality of the village of Monifieth, where it now is, — is not known. A dwelling-house for the schoolmaster was not built till 1691. Indeed, until 1696, when parochial schools were finally established by the Legislature, those who held the office of teacher in the parish appear to have been very inade- quately remunerated. One person resigned on the ground that he could not live by the profession. The celebrated scholar, David Doig, LL. D. (rector of the grammar school of Stirling, and an able writer in the Encyclopae- dia Britannica,) was a native of this parish, and was admitted schoolmaster in 1749 ; — and, for several years towards the close of last century, Mr W. Craighead, the author of a treatise on arith- metic formerly much in use, held the same situation. MOMFIETH. 557 Literature. — Two parochial libraries are in operation. That ID Broughty Ferry was instituted in 182!^ and contains upwards of 500 volumes ; that in MoniHcth was instituted in 1886, and contains upwards of 600 volumes. The readers in each are not so numerous as they ought to be and once were. There is no friendly society in the parish. One was attempted among the fishermen of Broughty Ferry ; but after a short and sickly existence, it has been broken up. Two savings banks (one in Monifieth and the other in Broughty Ferry) on the National Security system are succeeding more prosperously. In the Broughty Ferry branch there are L. 600; in Monifieth, L. 200. Poor. — The average number of |)ersons regularly receiving pa- rochial aid is 40, besides occasional paupers; and the average amount of supply to each is 6s. per month. The collections available for the poor, made at the doors of the two churches, average L. 80 per annum. A trifle more is realized from hearse and mortcloth dues ; but hitherto this income has been found in- adequate to meet the expenditure, so that the heritors have volun- tarily assessed themselves in order to defray it. It is to be lament- ed, that the independent spirit which formerly instigated many of the industrious poor to disdain parochial relief is fast wear- ing out. Inns, — In the Monifieth district of the parish there are five li- censed ale-houses; but in the Broughty Ferry district, there are one hotel and twentv alehouses. Fuel. — The fuel used is sea-borne coal and brushwood ; for which last " birns," or the scorched stems of burnt furze, is a com- mon substitute among the poorer classes. Peats of an excellent quality used to be dug out of the links by " tirring*' the sand to the depth of from four to eight feet. This was less laborious than might be imagined, as the stratum of moss when arrived at is often ** twelve peats deep." This mode of obtaining fuel, however, was some time ago put a stop to by the proprietor, on account of the blowing of the loosened sand, and consequent destruction of the pas- ture which it occasioned. On a late occasion, in cutting a deep drain through the links, a canoe was discovered deeply imbedded in this stratum of moss, at least a mile from the shore; giving proof that the whole of the links from Monifieth to West-haven, (forming an isosceles triangle, of which the base is five miles, and the perpendicular from the vertex to the base three miles,) were at one time under water, and constituted part of the estuary of the 558 FORFARSHIRE. Tay. The etymology of the names of the places, situated on the steep brink rising above the links, unequivocally corroborates the same supposition. September 1842. PARISH OF NEWTYLE. PRESBYTERY OF MEIGLE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MBARNS. THE REV. JOHN MOON, MINISTER. L— Topography and Natural History. Name^ Boundaries, Sfc. — The name of the parish in old re- cords is Newtyld. Conjecture only is offered, that it may have originated from the gray slates, tyle, or tyld, as they may have been called, found in hills in the parish ; a conjecture strength- ened by the fact of a place near Dunkeld, where slate-quarries are, having also the name of Newtyle. The parish is bounded on the south, by Lundie ; on the south-east and east, by Auch- terhouse and Nevay, of the united parishes of Eassie and Nevay ; on the north and west, by Meigle and Kettins parishes* Topographical Appearance, — The parish is a convenient one in its local arrangement, being rather more than two miles in direct line from south to north, and nearly the same extent from east to west On the south, it is hilly. The hills are named Kil- purnie, Hatton, Newtyle, Keillor, &c , and range chiefly from east to west. They are not of great altitude, but verdant to their tops, producing good pasture, and forming valuable sheep-walks. The entrance to and outlet from Strathmore (the great strath or valley), in this direction, lies between the hills of Hatton and New- tyle, commonly called the Glack of Newtyle, There is nothing in the pass itself particularly calculated to arrest the attention ; but in coming northwards, the lover of landscape will be de- lighted with the view, suddenly bursting open before him, of the great and beautiful valley stretching far and wide below. From the northern base of the hilly part of the parish on the south, to its boundaries on the north, the general aspect is of flat surface, gradually declining towards the level of the strath. NEWTYLE. 559 There is a peat-moss in the south of the parish, which formerly lay in a swampy state, but is now in process of drainage. 11. — Civil History. AntiquiHes. — Local names, such as Chesterpark, probably from easiroj seem to designate posts or stations of Roman troops, during their invasion of the country. There is a 6eld so called on the high groundj near the village of Hill of Keillor. Tradition points out, in the north-west of the parish, Grahame's Knowe, and King's Well, marking, it is said, the route of the usurper Mac- beth from his fortress on Dunsinane Hill northwards, before the Thane of Fife, and countenancing the legend respecting the W- Dumental remains within the policies of Belmont Castle, in the parish of Meigle. Near Auchtertyre, a small village in the parish, there is a well^ commonly called the Crew Well, and adjoining it, there are the evident remains of a camp, of square form, and of no great dimensions. In the Old Statistical Account, this en- campment is said to have been one of Montrose's army, during the civil wars. In a recent History of the Highlands and High- land Clans, notice is taken of the Earl of Crawford and his fol- lowers from Fife, having been in arms in the parish, which makes it questionable whether the entrenchment may not have been one of that body of troops. To the south of Auchtertyre, there was dis- covered, within the last forty years, one of those artificial subter- ranean caverns, supposed of Pictish construction. The Castle of Hatton, (Halltoun), now in ruins, was built by Lawrence Lord Oliphant, 1575. It is finely situated on the north- west base of the Hill of Hatton, in the opening of the Glackj which it commands, and affords a very extensive view of the strath. It appears to have been a fortified residence of very sub- stantial workmanship. A short distance onwards, to the south, there is said to have been a castle, (Baleraig), scarcely any traces of which now remain. About its site, some urns in a broken state were turned up by the plough, not many years ago. At a short distanc-e to the west of the village of Hill of Keillor, there is a tumulus with a large standing-stone in it, evidently of great antiquity, but concerning which tradition is silent. The stone has rude hieroglyphics on it. In a field below the Kirkton, there are two mounds of artificial structure, used probably as archery butts, — monuments of olden times. One of these has of late been considerably impaired. FORFAR. GO 560 FORFARSHIRE. The Chapel of Keillor on the west, and Templeton on the east, are small villages in the parish, — the names seemingly im- plying that, in former times, places of worship had been there. The Hill of Kilpurnie is of considerable altitude, and the highest in the parish. It is the most northerly of the Sidlaw (or South law) Hills ranging from the south,— -is detached from the southern range, which are of bleak and sterile aspect, whereas it is green, and grass-bearing to its summit, belonging evidently to the class of Sidlaws ranging east and west, as the southern boundary of Strathmore. This hill commands from its top a most extensive and delightful prospect in every direction far as eye can reach ; — to the north, east, and west, the long, wide, and beautfful valley, with its back-ground of the Grampian mountains towering in lofty grandeur one above another ; — to the south, east, and west, — the Tay in its course, — the rich vale of the Carse, — the estuary of tlie Tay, — the Bell-rock Lighthouse in the German Ocean, — St Andrews with its venerable towers, &c. Kilpurnie or Kilpurney appears to have been anciently a sta- tion for signal (ires, and well adapted in every respect for such purpose. An observatory was built and Btted up on the top of the hill, in the course of last century, by the then proprietor, the Lord Privy- Seal of the day, and a keeper's residence built near to it. The dwelling-house has long ago disappeared, and the walls only of the observatory now remain. The hill and turret form, it is said, a useful land- mark for vessels at sea. . Parochial Records^ Sfc. — The oldest record is of date 27lh March 1648, closing in 1711; next volume commences 28th April 1717, and ends 29th October 1721. These records have not been preserved as they should have been. The oldest vo- lume is in a very mutilated state. The registers of marriages, births, and deaths, seem to have been irregularly kept ; the other records appear to have been made out in a regular and orderly manner. In the oldest volume there is a nota^ Sth May 1698^ stating, " which day, Sth of May instant, the prisbitry violently entered the church by breaking up the doors thereof; so that from the Sth day of May foresaid, the pariochoners did conveen to the Haltoun, where they are to have sermon maintained by the Bishop Aberdeen, and others in his name during his abode in the pa- rioch." The Bishop, then residing in Hatton Castle, continued to do duty in the parish, as the record shows, woto, 20th June 1708, stating, " Since Master James Laing, his entry as precentor in NEWTYLE. 561 the Haltouo to the Bishop Aberdeen, William Chrystie, boxmaster, has no more to count for of collections at Haltoun, save seven pounds, three shillings, and ten pennies," Scots money. The last mention made of the Bishop is of date 28th May 1710, stating his having preached the action sermon of that day on Ro- mans viii. 9. and the collection made to be L. 1 1, 10s. Scots monev. It is not, however, till I2th September 17)9, that, after judicial procedure, we 6nd the Presbyterian minister of the parish, as the record shows, granting receipt for the records, registers, church utensils, &c, as being then given up to him and the kirk-session. In the beginning of the volume commencing 1717, there is a(i account given of occurrences during the blank period in the re- cords, from which it appears that, in the Rebellion of 1715, the minister of the parish was prevented by armed interference from preaching in the church, his house outrageously entered by sol- diers, himself threatened, and forced to '^ abscond" for a time. Ltond'Otcners. — The Right Honourable Lord WharnclifFe is the principal heritor, and proprietor of nearly the whole of the parish. His residence, when in the country, is Belmont Castle, in the pa- rish of Meigle. Andrew Whitton, Esq. of Couston, and Patrick Miller, Esq. of Davidston, are the only other heritors. There is no resident heritor in the parish. Ballantyne or Bannatyne House, near the Kirkton, seems to have been, at no very remote period, occupied as a mansion-house. The plan on which this building was erected, appears not to have been completed. Valued Rent.— Property of Lord Wharncliffe, L.2476, 13s. 4d. ; Andrew Whitton of Couston, L. 133, 6s. 8d. ; Patrick Mil- ler of Davidston, L.120. III. — Population. By the censiu of 181 1» males, 476, females, 433, s= 909 1821, 373, 423, = 796 1831, 467, 437, = 904 1841, 612, 651, = 1263 The increase of population has arisen from the erection of a new village in the parish. lu 1832, a field of arable ground of about 15 imperial acres, the property of the Right Honourable Lord Wharncliffe, was laid out on a regular plan, to be let in lots for building, on leases for ninety-nine years. The railway from Dundee terminated, at the time, in this field. The site for the new village appeared an eligible one ; a number of building stances were disposed of in lots, consisting of from about 19 to 27 poles. 562 FORFAaSHIRF. at rates varying from about Is. 8d. to 2s. per pole, and a neat vil- lage of considerable size soon arose, which now contains a popula- tion of 505 souls.* Of the above population, 123 are householders, of these 79 are married persons, 6 widowers, and 16 widows. Eighteen resi* dent leaseholders, included in the above number, now live in the village. Of the said householders, 96 belong to the Established Church, about 10 to the United Secession, 3 are Episcopalian, 2 Baptists, 1 Glassite, 1 Christian Union Church, 1 Roman Catholic; the remainder, consisting of adults and heads of families, are not at pre- sent in communion with any church. There are 166 communi- cants of the Established Church in the village. The inhabitants of the village are chiefly agricultural labourers, many of whom also work as weavers when circumstances require. A chapel of the United Secession connexion was built and opened in the village in 1835, the minister of which is resident. A surgeon also resides in the village. The village of Newbiggingf , now rather old-looking, is next in size to the new village, and consists of sixty dwelling-houses, containing a population of 1 15 males, and 114 females, in all, 229 souls. In this village, 32 heads of families now possess pendicles of from 3 to about 15 acres. In the hill of Keillor, Kirkton, Denend, Burnside, and the Pitnapies, villages in the parish, pen- dicles are also similarly held by heads of families. The careful cultivation of these pendicles affords employment to the villagers, and rewards their industry by yielding them milk, meal, potatoes, and other necessaries for the bringing up of their families. The ages of the population of the parish, exclusive of the 'new village, may be stated as under : — Ages, 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 Males, 2 7 22 36 41 44 23 88 101 Males, 864 P ,.« Females, 2 8 28 39 89 62 36 65 109 Females, 888 ? '^ Of this number, 178 are householders, and of these, 99 are married persons, 29 widows, and 12 widowers. A few dwelling- houses throughout the parish are at present unoccupied. Of said householders, 166 belong to the Established Church, about 4 to • The streets in tliis village have been formed on the principle recommended by Che late Sir H. Parnell, by putting the lower stratum of metal on end, breaking the tops to a uniform height, and overlaying with broken metal in the ordinary manner. I Three ministers and one probationer of the church, now alive, are natives of this village. NEWTYLK. 563 the United Secession, 1 to the Relief Secession, 2 Roman Catholics, the remainder are not at present in communion with any. church, but chiefly profess to be of the Establishment. In the above number, there are upwards of 300 communicants of the Established Church. The Dumber of marriages in the pari»h during the last three years, 24 births of malei, . 81 females, .43 deaths of males, 21 females, . . 28 young persons, . . 1 1 The number of illegitimate births has been greater during the last three years than previously, averaging about four per annum. Pregnancy among females in the working-classes occasionally pre- cedes marriage. IV. — Industry. Agriculture^ Sfc. — From a measurement of the property of the principal heritor, supposed correct, and said to be of the year 1815, and from information given as to the other properties in the parish, the land of the parish seems to be laid out as follows : Arable. Pasture. Wood. Uoads. Acres. Principal heritor, 2249.346 1859.820 148.582 84.207 about 8842 Couston, . 258. — 21. — 279 Imp. Davidston, .123.850 II. 20. — 154-350 do. Since 1815 much has been done in draining and bringing under the plough all improvable land on the estate of the principal heri- tor, so that at this date a very considerable extent of what was then pasture is now arable ground. But little now remains uncultivated which is capable of being profitably brought under cultivation. The Hill of Hatton is ploughed almost to its summit ; on the north of the parish, where standing water, marsh, and morass were, corn fields now are ; and on the south, the hand of industry has been equally at work, especially on the estate of Couston, farmed by its proprietor, whose improvements are of a very marked character. Woods. — The parish, upon the whole, has but a small extent of ground under plantation, which consists chiefly of larch and Scotch firs, intermixed in some places with different kinds of hard-wood trees. These plantations appear to thrive well. Towards the north of the parish, along the roads and in hedge-rows forming divisions of fields, trees have been planted, which are now of considerable age, and agreeably diversify the aspect of the country. There is a small copse of natural birch wood on the 564 FORFARSHIRE. north declivity of the hill of Newtyle, which has a very pleasing appearance. Soil. — The soil on the hilly part of the parish is generally of a light sharp productive quality, consisting of black earth or clay, with mixture of sand and gravel on rock, mortar, or clay. On the north, the soil is of a similar, but, in some places, richer quality, with subsoil of sand, gravel, clay, and marl. Husbandry, — The usual term of a lease is for nineteen years. Farming is conducted on the most approved systems. The ave- rage produce of grain may be between five and six quarters per acre. Oats and barley are the chief grain crops grown in the pa- rish. Much attention is paid to the rearing and feeding of cattle by the farmers, several of whom also buy in sheep-stock for eat- ing off winter turnip, and dispose of the sheep, when fatted, in the ensuing spring. A permanent stock of Southdown sheep is kept up by the tenant * of the farm of Auchtertyre. The farm-houses and steadings are generally commodious and suitable. At Auch- tertyre and Couston, farm -offices have lately been built of the most substantial kind. There are 13 thrashing- mills in the parish ; 7 of these are wrought by horses, 6 by water, and 1 at Auchter- tyre by steam-engine power. There are five farms above L.200 and under L.700 each of rent; eleven above L.50 and under L.200; and forty- nine small farms and pendicles varying in rent from L.3 up towards L.50 a-year. There are two bothies in the parish. Bent of Land. — The average rent of arable land, in as far as can be ascertained, may be stated to be between L.), 10s. and L.I, 15s. per acre. Some of the land is rented at L.3 per acre. We have no data to determine as to the rent of land in pasture. It mav be understood, however, as included in the above averasfe of rent per acre. Farmers above a L.50 rent, on the estate of the principal heritor, under current leases, pay a grain rent accord- ing to the fiars prices. The rental, of course, of the great bulk of the parish varies according to the fiars prices. Quarries. — There are several quarries in the parish, containing vast abundance of excellent freestone, well adapted for building. The heavy gray slate found in the hills is now but little used as • Hugh Watson, Esq. Keillor, well-known ns an agriculturist, who first intro- duced the use of bone-manure into this district of country, and is distinguished fur hi% skill and success in sheep and cattle-stock improvements. NEWTVLE. 665 slating for houses. Whinstone is also found in abundance, and used for road metal. Rental — The gross rental of the parish may be between L.4000 and L.5000 ; but, as already stated, a great proportion of the rent of the parish is fluctuating in amount Manufactures. — The staple manufacture of the parish at pre- sent is Sacking and Hessian sheetings. Coarse linens called Os- naburghs are also wrought, and occasionally sheeting and shirtings for private use. Since the spinning-wheel gave place to the spin- ning-mill, females have betaken themselves to weaving, and there are now nearly as many women employed at the loom as men* Weaving is done and paid by the piece. Complaints are gene- ral as to the lowness of wages ; but employment continues to be afforded to those willing to work. There are two meaUmills and two saw-mills driven by water. V. — Parochial Economy. Market- Toidtu — There is no fair or public market held in the parish. Butcher-meat is brought into the new village twice a- week from the neighbourhood. Means of Communication. — A turnpike road from Dundee passes northward between the Kirkton and new village, eleven miles dis- tant from Dundee, — which is kept in excellent repair. Several other county or statute- labour roads cross and intersect the pa- rish. The railroad from Dundee enters the parish on the souih, close upon the turnpike road, and passes at a short distance along- side of it, onwards to the northern extremity of the parish, where, branching off east and west to Glammis and Cupar Angus, the turnpike is crossed over by the branch leading to Cupar Angus on the west. The Dundee and Newtyle, the Newtyle and Cupar Angus, the Newtyle and Glammis, are separate railway concerns. The Dundee and Newtyle Railway was begun at both ends of the line in 1826, and opened in 1832. The length of the line between Newtyle and Dundee is 10^ miles, and has cost, it is said, about L. 1 00,000. The Hatton inclined plane in this pa- rish is three-quarters of a mile long, has an ascent of one in twelve, and is wrought by a fixed engine.* After the opening of the Dundee and Newtyle Railway, the line was extended, as before stated, with a gentle declivity sufficient to carry on carriages to a distance of from one and a half to two miles, towards the Cupar * There are two other fixed and five locomotive engines employed on the railway between Newtyle and Dundee. 566 FORFARSHIRE. Angus and Glammis stations. These lines are otherwise wrought by horse power. The line of railway from Dundee to Newtyle was amongst the earliest undertakings of the kind in the country. Its summit level is said to be upwards of 420 feet high. The undertaking was at least a bold one. Ecdesiaitical State. — The church was built in 1767, and is in good condition. It holds about 500 sitters, is conveniently si- tuated. A few sittings are reserved free for the poor. Thereare about 100 seats for letting, disposed of at a small annual payment, ap- propriated in behoof of the poor's fund. The manse was built in 1771. It does not appear to have been originally a well built and finished house, and is not in good condition. Commodious and well-built office-houses were erected in 1838. The statutory ex- tent of the glebe is six Scotch acres. It is of light soil ; in rent value not exceeding L.], 10s. per acre. The stipend consists of 77 bolls, 1 peck, | lippie of barley ; 75 bolls, 1 firlot, 1 peck, f lip- pie of meal, 1 peck j lippie oats; and L.32, lis. 5^d. Sterling of money. Education. — A new parochial school was lately built, of hand- some structure, and sufficient accommodation for 150 scholars. The salary of the schoolmaster is the maximum, with a free house and garden. The fees vary from 2s. to 7s. per quarter, — the latter charge including education in all the higher branches taught in the school. The amount of fees actually paid in the year may be about L.50 ; and from session-clerk dues and other sources, from L.5 to L.10 may be realized. There is a school on private adventure taught in the parish ; also two or three taught by fe- males. Sunday schools have, for a long time past, been in the parish. There are at present two in connexion with the Establishment, having an average attendance of upwards of 100 scholars; and one in connexion with the United Secession. Libraries. — Al)out twenty years ago, a library, consisting chiefly of religious books, was established in the parish. A marked inte- rest in it was evinced by the people, till the books, about 130 vo- lumes, had been very generally read by them. Eighty-four vo- lumes, selected from the London Sunday School Union's excellent collection, have been lately procured, and added to the library*. Savings Banks. — A branch savings bank of the Dundee Na- tional Security Savings Bank, was opened in the parish in 1839. NEWTYLE. 567 The deposits in August 1841 amounted to L. 145, 19s. 3d.; in May 1842 toX.139, 128. Id. Poor. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is about 15. Of this number some have families. There is sel- dom less given to any pauper than Is., and seldom more to any than 2s. 6d. per week, unless in the case of widows with young families, or of orphan children. Donations are occasionally given in a private manner to meritorious persons known to be in distres- sed circumstances, and who may have a reluctance openly to ap- ply for relief. Such persons seldom fail to evince gratitude for the respect shown to their wants. A pauper has been for about twenty years past in the Dundee Lunatic Asylum. The annual average of collections, contributions, &c. on behoof of the poor for the three years preceding 1st July 1841 was L.72, 14s. 7d. ; dis- tributed, L.64, 8s. Id. ; to which is to be added expenditure for salaries of kirk-officer, session-clerk, and precentor, &c. L.8, 15s. 9d. Sterling. Annual amount of church collections* for the poor, about L.25, lOs. ; mortcloth dues, L.2, 16s.; seat rents, L.5, 2s. 2d.; penal- ties, L.2, 9s. dd. ; interest of money, L.6, 17s. lOd. ; voluntary contribution by the principal heritor, L.dO; total, L.7d, 10s. dd. There is still a laudable disinclination among the people to come upon the poor's fund. Pvblic Houses. — There are at present 5 in the parish. Fuel. — Coal is generally used as fuel. * Church collections are occasionally made for charitable and benevolent purposes not immediately connected with a provision for the poor of the parish; and in einer« gencics of distrcM, in the case of individuals or of families in the parish, it i.s hut due to state, that the parishioners have ever evinced a readiucss to subscribe their private contributions of aid in relief. October 1842. PARISH OF LTFF AND BENVIK. PRESBYTERY OF DUNDEE, SYNOD OF ANGCS AND MEARNS. THE REV. GEORGE ADDISON, D. D., MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — LifT, according to the author of Caledonia, is derived from the ^orth British or Pictish woref, hiS, a Jlood or inundation.* On what account, this name should have been applied to a tract of country, having in it nothing that deserves the name of a river; and consisting chiefly of sloping-elevated ground, as secure as pos- sible from all risk of inundation, it is not easy to conjecture. Benvie, some suppose to be of Celtic derivation — from ** Beinn Buidhe" — signifying '' the Yellow Hill or Movnt'^ The original parish of LifT comprehended the space on which the greater part of the village of Lochee now stands. That vil- lage, along with a part of the old parish of Logie, was erected into a quoad sacra parish about ten years ago, called the parish of Lochee. The parish of Logie, including, together with the lands so cal- led, those of Balgay and Blackness, was annexed to LifT, quoad temporalia^ before the middle of the seventeenth century. A con- siderable portion of the suburbs of Dundee to the west and north is built on these lands ; and the inhabitants of the parish of Logie having, from time immemorial, been connected with Dundee, quoad spiritualia, it will not be necessary to take any further no- tice of this part of the united parish.f The parish of Invergowrie had been joined to Liflf as early as the above-mentioned period. In November 1 758, the union of the parishes of Liflf and Benvie took place, and these three, united quoad omnia^ constitute what • " The Liffkr and Liver, as well as the Liffy, which bisects Dublin, derive their names from the British l^if or Lliv — signifying a flood or inundation. The ri- vers named Ylif, which are now Ila and lieu in Britain, have their names from the same source. — Chalmer's Caledonia, page 25. f While the teinds of Logie have been held to belong to the parish of Liff for nearly two centuries, an annual payment of twelve bolls of barley has been made, from a very remote period, to the minister of Dundee, expressly for ** the administration of the sacraments and marriage to the heritors and inhabitants of the lands of Balgay and Logie, and of the lands of Blackness.** LIFF AND EENVIE. 5C9 IS properly termed the parish of Liff and Benvie, to which, with that part of the quoad sacra parish of Lochee, which formerly be- longed to LifT, the following observations have reference.* Extent and Boundaries, — This parish is situated at the south- west corner of the county of Forfar, being bounded on the west, by the parishes of Fowlis Easter and Longforgan (both in Perth- shire) ; on the south, by the river Tay ; on the east, by Dundee and the united parish of Mains and Strathmartine ; and on the north, by the Dighty, a small river which divides it from the pa- rishes of Auchterhouse and Lundie. The extent is about 6 miles from east to west, and 4 miles from north to south. The land rises with a gentle slope from the Tay for nearly three miles, till it reaches an elevation of about 400 feet. The remaining part has a northern aspect. The turnpike road from Perth to Dundee passes near the south boundary for the space of one mile, and the road from Dundee to Meigle and Cupar- Angus traverses the pa- rish for three miles, near its eastern limit. Ht/droffraphy. — There is no river in the parish. Several small streams flowing from the west, and joined, within less than a mile of the Tay, by the rivulet running through Lochee from the east, are then called the Burn of Invergowrie, which, after passing Bul- lion bleachfield, and a little further down furnishing a sufficient water-power for the flour-mills of Invergowrie, falls into the bay of that name.f Near the village of Benvie* is a spring strongly impregnated with iron. It was formerly in great repute as a tonic, and was ap- plied externally in cutaneous disorders, but is now entirely ne- glected. Geology, — The geology of this parish has of late attracted con- siderable attention, in consequence of a variety of fossil organic remains very recently discovered in the den of Balruddery, by Mr Webster, the proprietor; having, with one exception, been declared by Professor Agassiz to belong to entirely new species ; and also, in consequence of very considerable diflerence of opinion hav- * The reasons or motives which led to the separation of the parish of Logie from Dundee, with which it was at one time connected, it is impossible now to ascertain ; hut, in regard to Invergowrie and Benvie, two things are undoubted, \»tt that both these parishes were very limited in extent and population ; Bnd,2dlf/t that the tcinds, in both cases, were inadequate to the suitable maintenance of a clergyman. t It is very currently but erroneously assumed, that the Bum of Invergowrie is the boundary l>etwcen the counties of Perth and Forfar. The farm of Bullion and lands of Dargo lie on the west of said bum, and are confessedly in the county of Forfar and parish of IJff. The marches between the counties and parishes are, at this particu- lar point, irregular and ill defined. 570 FORFARSHIUE. ing arisen, amongst geologists, as to the precise formation to which the strata they occur in are to be held as belong- ing. It may, therefore, be desirable to state the conclusions to which a careful examination of this very interesting locality and the district around would seem to give rise. But, as in examining a particular locality, it is necessary, in order to form any conclusion as to its geological character, not only carefully to examine that locality, but also as much of the district around as shall be necessary to determine its relative position, with regard to the strata connected with it; — so, therefore, it will here be ne- cessary, in order to point out the particular character of the strata in this parish, to make some remarks on the nature of the strata of the district around, and to state the conclusions drawn from a careful examination of them. The stratified rocks of this parish are of two kinds, — red sand- stone and gray sandstone. There are but few localities at which their precise point of contact can be traced with much distinct- ness, and there has, therefore, been some doubt as to which of them is superimposed on the other. Dr Fleming states, that the gray sandstones overlie the red, (Cheek's Edin. Journal, Feb. 1831), whilst Mr Lyell (in his Elements of Geology), states, that the red sandstones overlie the gray. But these localities, combined with an attentive observation of the general position of the strata, afford conclusive grounds on which to determine this fact, from which it distinctly appears that the red sandstone over- lies the gray. The general line of direction, or crop of the strata, where they appear to be free from the immediate influence of trap rocks, is from south-east to north-west, the dip, therefore, being towards the south-west. The strata along the high ground, which forms the northern boundary of the Carse of Gowrie, is almost entirely occupied by gray sandstone, whilst the red sand- stone is generally found occupying the low ground, and apparently contained within the limits of the gray sandstone, where the strata, from a change of dip, assume a somewhat basined form, which oc- curs at different places in the neighbourhood, and also, in some degree, in the Carse of Gowrie. These sandstones vary consi- derably in character and internal structure at different points. The general character of the gray sandstone is, — finely grained, compact, of a dullish-gray colour, var^fing in character from friable schist, to compact sandstone in deep beds, well suited for building. It is| in some instances, highly micaceous, at other times, ap- MFF AND BENVIE. 571 proaching io character to a conglomerate. Towards the upper part of the series^ it chiefly assumes a schistose character, some- times of coqsiderable tenuity, and, at other times, forming excel- lent pavement, precisely similar in character and appearance to the well known Arbroath pavement of Carmylie Quarry, and ge- nerally intermingled with beds of slate clay, locally termed calm. This schistus deposit is of considerable depth. Its position and character are well seen in the den of Balruddery, in the den of Fowlis, and near Liff. The gray sandstone, forming the lower part of the series, is evidently of enormous depth, and is quarried to a great extent at Milliield, on the banks of the Tay, and at Lochee, at which places blocks of immense size can be cut. The red sandstone varies from a brownish-red-coloured stone, some- what similar in texture to the gray sandstone, to that of a deep brick- red-coloured stone of softer texture, having, in many in- stances, yellow spots or nuclei interspersed through it, similar to those which occur in the red sandstone of Clashbinnie Quarry, near the west or upper end of the Carse. One of the most fa- vourable localities for observing the point of contact, and, there- fore, order of superposition of the sandstones, is in the den of Balruddery, where the red sandstone is found superimposed on the gray sandstone schists, and contains yellow spots precisely si- milar to those of Clashbinnie. The transition from gray to red is more or less gradual in different localities. This transition may be distinctly traced near Liff Church. The organic remains of the red sandstone have been found in the deep brick-red coloured sandstone of Clashbinnie, whilst those of the gray sandstone de- posit have been found in the slate-clay of the den of Balruddery. In examining these strata, it is necessary to attend to the effect produced on them by the trap rocks, which, in some instances, alter both their position and appearance very considerably. These trap rocks consist chiefly of greenstone, as at Castle Huntly, in the Carse of Gowrie, and in the Sidlaw range of hills, but, in many instances, also of porphyritic rocks of reddish colour, and also of porphyritic greenstone. Thus, in the den of Balruddery, which is a very important point for observation, considerable diffi- culty occurs in tracing the continuous character and position of the gray sandstone schists, in consequence of the occurrence of igneous rocks, of a porphyritic nature, in several places in the form of dikes, which break through the strata, and give them a red colour and altered appearance when near the point of contact 572 I^ORPARSHIRE. ' In order to observe the precise character and position of these strata, it is necessary, as they dip towards the south, to trace their connection with rocks of un older date, to the northward. The Carse of Gowrie is bounded on the north by the Sidlaw range of hills, chiefly composed of trap rocks, which separates it from Strathmore. On crossing these hills, the gray sandstone is again found reclining on the north side of them, dipping to the north. And in traversing Strathmore, we find the central part of It is chiefly occupied by red sandstone as at Cupar Angus, these sandstones being in every way precisely similar to those of the Carse of Gowrie. But on approaching the northern side of Strath- more, towards Kair-Gowrie, the red sandstone begins to assume the character of a conglomerate, which, on tracing it along the beds of the streams which intersect the high ground to the north of Strathmore, becomes a coarse red conglomerate, having all the characteristics of the old red sandstone conglomerate. On tra- cing it still farther north, as in the bed of the Ericht to the north of Craighall House, it passes into a coarse gray conglomerate, mized at some points with finer grained portions in a sooaewhat stratified position, which is at once recognized as belonging to tbe greywacke series. The colour of this conglomerate is remarka- bly similar to that of the gray sandstones of Strathmore and the Carse of Gowrie, and the finer portions of it are remarkably simi- lar to many of the gray sandstone strata. Thus, then, we find these sandstone strata occupying the valleys of Strathmore and the Carse of Gowrie, and that as we approach the borders of the Grampian range, they assume the character of con- glomerates. There seems no reason for considering these conglo- merates as belonging to another deposit, but simply as an instance of a well known fact in geology, that newer stratified rocks on ap- proaching primary rocks very frequently assume a difierent cha- racter, being usually much less highly comminuted in their consti- tuent parts. From this it would undoubtenly seem, that these red and gray conglomerates are the equivalents of the red and gray sandstones, which merely assume a finer texture, when found in a more distinctly stratified form, occupying the low country, and at a greater distance from the older rocks. It might seem out of place to enter here into a detailed argu- mentative statement regarding the various views adopted by geo- logists, as to the precise character of the strata in this district, and therefore in some degree of the various theories of the red sand- LIFP AND BENVIK. 573 stone generally. But as the recent discovery of fossil organic re« mains of a new species in them has created considerable interest, it may perhaps be desirable to state shortly the results of a parti- cular examination of them. The opinion expressed by Dr Thom- son in his Chemistry and Mineralogy, and by Mr Witham in his paper on the Red Sandstone of Berwickshire, published in the Transactions of the Natural History Society of Newcastle, Vol. i. p. 173, as to the existence of a new red sandstone in Forfarshire, now distinctly appears to be altogether erroneous ; the localities to which Mr Witham refers are not pointed out with such distinctness as to enable the observer to examine into the fact ; but undoubted* ly more recent examinations of this county clearly tend to prove that new red sandstone does not occur in any part of it. And, on the other hand, it has since been clearly shown that the sandstones alluded to by Dr Thomson underlie the coal formation of Fife, thus entirely excluding the supposition that they can belong to the new red sandstone series. It mav therefore be held, that the red sandstones of this district belong to the old red sandstone forma- tion, and the point now to be observed is their precise position with regard to the strata of the surrounding district. The gray sandstone has been stated by Dr Fleming (as was previously men- tioned) to overlie the red, whilst Mr Lyell states that they occur in the reverse order, and the result of an examination of them, as will have been observed, coincides with the latter view. In a re- cent treatise on the old red sandstone, Mr Millar makes a verv insfenious subdivision of the old red sandstone of the north of Scot- land, based on views drawn from a consideration of the fossil or- ganic remains which occur in the various strata, and by compari- son of them with the better known old red sandstones of England, and undoubtedly fossil organic remains of a somewhat similar cha- racter, have been found to be common to each of them ; but there scarcely seems sufficient information as yet to have been obtained regarding the old red sandstones of Scotland, to lead to any con- clusive arrangement of them, based on an examination of their fos- sil organic remains alone. It is indeed but very recently that they were known to contain the organic remains of any animals what- ever, and but a very indistinct conclusion, indeed, can be drawn from the fact of particular species having been found to occur in certain strata, while they have not been found to do so in othprs which may be more or less similar to them in mineral character or appearance, for indeed very much depends on the nature of the 574 FORFARSHIRE. Strata in which they occur. Thus the organic remains of Balrud-^ dery are found in the slate clay of the gray sandstone^ whilst those of the red sandstone of Clash binnie quarry are imbedded in sili- ceous matter. Mr Miller subdivides the old red sandstone de- posits into three distinct classes, and apparently from the circum- stance of the red and gray sandstones of this district having an or- ganism of one particular species, viz. the Cephelaspis common to both, he classes them as belonging to the second or intermediate division ; but it is scarcely enough to say, that because particular fossil organic remains have not been found to occur throughout the various beds of a great deposit, such as the old red sandstone series, therefore they do not belong simply to one general deposit, or that a special and invariable subdivision may be inferred from it, or that any distinct ground of comparison of them will thereby arise with similar deposits of a different locality or country. This is a well known circumstance with regard to other deposits, though perhaps on a smaller scale, as in the mountain limestone, or in the coal formation generally, where particular fossils are found to oc- cur in some deposits, whilst they are totally awanting, or of partial occurrence merely in others, and reappear again without any as- signable order whatever, so that whilst sufficient grounds may be afforded for the comparison of the formation or deposit generally, with those of a similar character which occur at different and dis- tant localities, still they can by no means be held sufficient for as- signing any rule or order of occurrence. The mineral character and contents of the deposit also give rise to very considerable and important effects, as from the effect pointed out by J^yell, by the presence of oxide of iron in greater or less quantity, which must in many instances account for the absence of organic remains, which might otherwise have occurred in them. The beautiful state of preservation in which the organic remains of Balruddery, although mostly of a very delicate texture, occur, in consequence of the total absence, or nearly so, of iron in the slate clay in which they are found, is a remarkable instance. And it is an undoubt- ed fact that there is a great irregularity in the character and oc- currence of the old red sandstones of Scotland and elsewhere. There appear, indeed, to be many satisfactory grounds for forming a conclusion regarding the strata of this district, both from their relative position and internal structure, although, of course, care must always be taken not to place too much reliance on this latter ground, which is too often the cause of error in the geological ob- LIFF AND BENVIE. 575 server. Although the examination of this district be attended with considerable difficulty, still it afTords a rather favourable op- portunity of ascertaining the geological character of the strata which occur in it. These, as has been mentioned, are limited to the red and gray sandstones, and, therefore, some of the strata al- luded to by Mr Miller must of course be awanting ; still the parti- cular position affords a great advantage in investigating their na- ture, and their particular character and position appears to be this, — that the gray and red conglomerates which occur on the high ground to the north of Strathmore are the equivalents of the gray and red sandstones of Strathmore and theH])arse of Gowrie, and that, therefore, the former belongs to the graywacke, and the latter to the old red sandstone series, which is simply an instance of by no means unusual occurrence, of the old red sandstone pas- sing into the graywacke beneath, as in Pembrokeshire and else- where. The position of the strata of this district coincides almost precisely with the section given by Mr Lyell, in his Elements of Geology, page 99, with the exception of the gray sandstone there laid down as occurring below the red, being merely looked upon as belonging to the graywacke series. The position of these strata in the ascending order is therefore this, \st, the graywacke, 2(f, the old red sandstone, Scf, the yellow sandstone of Fifeshire, 4th, the coal formation of Fifeshire. As was previously mentioned, the fossil organic remains disco- vered by Mr Webster in the den of Balruddery have been exa- mined by Professor Agassiz, and it is therefore hoped that correct drawings and descriptions of them will be published by that emi- nent naturalist. A few of the principal specimens may here be mentioned, as consisting of various specimens of the Cephelaspis, portions of a crustaceous animal in a beautiful state of preserva- tion, stated by Professor Agassiz to have belonged to a gigantic lobster ; a variety of ichthyodorulites, fins, and spines, and various beautifully marked delicate portions of crustaceous animals; but of these fossils, enough is not yet known to give any correct de- tailed description of them.* Boulders. — On the road to Liff, about a mile from the Tay, stands a very large boulder of gneiss, perfectly isolated, vulgarly termed the " Paddock Stane ;*' and two more of the same sort • The aboTe interesting account of the fiwsii remains lately discovered in the deu of Balruddery, was obligingly furnished by Charles Forsyth, Esq. Advocate. 70RFAB. ^ P 57^ FORFARSHIRE. are to be seen at the extremity of Invergowrie Bay, within a short distance of the land. Botany, — 1-he romantic dells and glens which abound in this neighbourhood are, in the season, richly clothed with the most beautiful plants and flowers, yet there is nothing very peculiar or rare in the botany of this parish. It may be mentioned, that in the Den of Balruddery, referred •to above, the Viola hirta and the Astragalus glycyphyllus are to be found, both stated by Hooker to be "rare in Scotland," although a more extensive observation has proved that they scarcely merit ihis honour. A more curious and a much rarer plant is also to be found in this locality, viz. the Tragopogon. This plant is inte- resting from its extrenrje sensibility to the " skiey influences." If the weather is fair, its flowers open at early dawn, and shut again •about ten o'clock in the morning ; so that, if the observer wishes to see its large yellow corolla expanded, he must bestir himself, and watch his opportunity. Its rot^ts seem at one time to have been used as an esculent. Old Gerarde describes them as in " delicate taste farre surpassing either parsenep or carrot." The Sambucus ebulus grows in the old burying-ground at Invergowrie. From the fact of its being found occasionally in such situations, it 'is probable that the ecclesiastics in other days grew it for its me- dicinal properties. The Veronica anagallis^ which is far from com- mon in this part of the country, will be found in the burn of Benvie. Plantations. — This parish and the surrounding district are well- wooded. On the lands of Camperdown are very extensive plan- tations, all of which, with the exception of young larch trees, are very thriving, and contribute greatly to the beauty of the land- scape, as well as the improvement of the climate and temperature. The estate of Gray abounds with fine timber of various kinds, and of considerable age, — elm, plane, ash, beech, oak, and fir trees of all sorts, &c. The subjoined table of measurements, very accurately made, mav interest a certain class of readers : Cedar near Gray House, at I foot from the ground, 22d September 1834, the above tree was measured, and found to con- tain 310 sblid feet. It is 59 feet in heij^ht. Ash in the orchard of Benvie, at I foot from the ground. Do. do. at 2 feet from the ground. Do. do. at 4 do. . . Larch in den opposite the church of Lift, 100 feet in height, and perfect- ly straight, 3 feet from the ground, . . . . 8 8 Girth. ^eet. In. 18 1 20 5 17 10 14 3 LIPF AND BENVIE. 577 Girth. Feet. In. 9 9 18 10 10 8 11 7 8 3 5 d 8 7 8 9 8 S 11 2 11 -Larch in West Den of Gray, at 3 feet from the ground, Oak near Gray House, at 3 do. . Measured 15th June 1833, and found to contain 428 feet 1 inch solid. It covers 650 square yards of ground. Horse-chestnut, 3 feet from the ground, Silver fir, 3 do. . Scarlet oak, 3 do. . Tulip tree, 3 do. Yew, 3 do. Walnut, 3 do. Scotch fir, 3 do. Pinaster, 3 do. £lm, .... Beech, II. — Civil History, Land-owners. — Following the order of the valuation roll, the first IS — The Right Honourable Lord Gray, patron of the church, L. 1593 14 11 Scots. The Rifrht Honourable the Earl of Camperdown, . 1 150 Alexander Clayhills, Esq. of Invergowrie, • 950 Robert Webster, Esq. of Balruddery, . . 426 5 1 Frederick Lewis Scrimgcour Wedderburn, Esq. of Wedderburn and Birkhill, . • . 383 6 8 William Henderson, Esq. of MylneBeld, . . 50 Mr Thomas Watson, Lifi; . . 40 6 Mr James Waddel, . . . 15 Total, L.4608 7 8 Mansion Houses, — The House of Gray is an iofiposing and ve- nerable structure. It is of the nianor style of architecture, with turrets; was built in 1716; is quite entire, and in good repair. It stands in a fine park of 200 acres, interspersed with old trees. Caniperdown House is an elegant modern building, of the Grecian style. The entrance on the east is adorned with a hand- some portico, supported by eight massive columns of the Ionic order. It is built of white Killala sandstone. The interior ar- rangements correspond with the external appearance, combining in a high degree elegance with comfort. The saloon is very mag- nificent, lighted by a cupola. But the most appropriate and interesting embellishment of this noble mansion is a splended painting, by Sir John Copley, of the scene on board the Venerable, immediately after the battle of Camperdown. De Winter is in the act of delivering up his sword to the British Admiral. The air of dejection which marks his handsome countenance tells how deeply he felt his unfortunate position ; while the athletic form, and noble attitude and bearing of Admiral Duncan exhibit the very personification of a British hero. The other figures which comprise the group, it is said, are 578 FORFAIlSniWE. real likenesses of the gallant men who bore a conspicuous part in the achievement of that ever memorable day.* A large addition has lately been made to the mansion-house of Invergowrie, the seat of Alexander Clayhills, Esq. The plan was furnished by Mr Burn, architect, and reflects great credit on his taste. The house is delightfully situated on a sloping bank adjoining the Tay, and commands a beautiful view of the bay of Invergowrie, of the course of the river for several miles, and of the rich and fertile district of the Carse of Gowrie, lying imme- diately to the westward. Balruddery House (Robert Webster, Esq.) is a handsome mo* dern building. It stands on an eminence sufficiently elevated to afford a rich, extensive, and varied prospect. The finely wooded dells by which it is surrounded are well known for their beautiful and romantic scenery. Mills. — Within the last sixteen or seventeen years, three spin- ning-mills have been erected in the village of Lochee, and one at Denmiln, in this parish. Whatever advantages may accrue from these establishments, they have a very unfortunate effect on the morals and pauperism of the community. At Bullion, near In- vergowrie, an extensive work for bleaching and dyeing yarn and cloth has been lately established. The necessary erections have been made with great care, and at very considerable expense. There is on the premises a water-wheel of 14 horses' power, and a steam-engine of 6. A gasometer has been fitted up solely for the use of the work. Parochial Registers. — 1. A register of births, commencing 1683, very much obliterated. 2. Register of baptisms, 1658, tolerably legible. 3. Register of births, 1696, much faded. 4. Register of marriages, 1660, almost illegible. 5. Record of kirk -session, 1704, not entire. 6. Register of baptisms and marriages, 1774, not entire. 7. Register of discipline, 1726, and book of collec- tions and disbursements, 1746, not entire. 8. Register of births, 1774, and also collections and disbursements, quite distinct 9. Register of discipline, 1786, well kept. 10. Register of births, • Adjoining the House of Camperdown there is a memorial of the battle possess- ing some interest, viz. the bulkhead of Dc Winter's ship, «* Vryhcid/' It is a large mass of wood representing a lion. The monarch of the beasts had been rather roughly handled in effigy— half his fece is shot away, and from the many hard hits he had received, it is easy to imagine how thoroughly the ship must have been «* riddled,* when *« the masts having fallen oyer the side, she dropped out of iho line, an un*'o- ▼•rnable hulk, and struck her colours." — James's Naval Uittory, ** LIFF AND BENVIE. 579 at present going on, beginning 1834. 11. Register of marriages, at present being filled up, 1834. Eminent Characters, — In the number of distinguished charac- ters connected with the parish, by residence, though not by birth, may be mentioned the late Admiral Viscount Duncan. During the intervals of professional service, he resided at the family seat in this parish ; and in the intercourse of private life, the benevolence of his disposition and urbanity of his manners conciliated the re- spect and affection of all classes. He was a staunch friend of the Established Church, and occasionally officiated as an elder. The late Professor John Playfair of Edinburgh was born at Benvie on the iOth of March 1748. He succeeded his father as minister of the united parish in August 1773; but the bent of his mind being decidedly towards scientific pursuits, he resigned the pastoral office in 1782, and became tutor to Mr Fergusson of Raith and his brother Sir Ronald Fergusson. He taught for se- veral years the mathematical class in the University of Edinburgh, and was afterwards appointed Professor of Natural Philosophy, both which situations he filled with distinguished honour and ability. The works he has left behind him establish his claim to the cha- racter of an eminent scholar and elegant writer. This parish was also the birth-place of his brother, William, author of many excel- lent works on history and antiquities. Antiquities. — Druidical Temple,-^ The Druidical temple men- tioned in the former account of the parish, consisting of nine large rude stones, is still to be seen. The enclosed space is circular, about ten feet in diameter. Roman Camp. — Of the Roman camp, described by Maitland in his History of Scotland, and called <* Catter Milly," or quatuor milliaj (alluding, it is supposed, to the number of troops assembled in the fortress, or the distance of the encampment from some other station), no trace remains. Pitalpie. — Pitalpie, or Pit of Alpin, lies on the confines of the parish to the east. A few cottages on the farm of Dryburgh bore the name of Pitalpie. They are now removed, and the space whereon they stood is within the plantations of the Earl of Cam- perdown. The name is considered as referring to " the scene of an engagement, in the ninth century, between the Picts and Scots, in which the latter were routed, and' Alpin, their king, with many nobles, was slain. The king's head, after the battle, being fast- ened to a pole, was carried by the victors to Abernethy, at that 680 rORFARSHIRG. time the most considerable Pictish town, to be exposed there to public view; but his body, according to tradition, was buried at Pitalpie." The large stone called the King's Cross still remains to the east of Pitalpie. It has a hole in the middle about a foot deep, in which, it is supposed, the royal standard was planted dur- ing the battle.* Hurly Hawhin. — The site of a castle, said to have been built by Alexander I., King of Scotland, and known by the name of Hurly Hawkin, may be easily traced in an enclosure opposite to the churchyard of Liff, to the west. It is a projecting point or tongue of land. The apex or point and two of the sides are sur- rounded by a deep ravine. There is no access but from the north, on which side there might have been a ditch or fosse, though all traces of it, and even of any building on the spot, are almost obliterated."|- * HollinsheJ relates, that Alpin was made prisoner, and ** having his hands bouiid behind him, was led to the next town, (Dundee), and there beheaded. Hb bead was set upon a pole and borne to Camelon, and there set up upon one of the highest turrets of the wall,**— from w hence, according to the same author, certain Scots, succeeded by stratagem in removing it, and escaped with the same to their own country —that ^^ the head of Alpin thus recovered was closed in a leaden coffin, and Kenneth him- self, (son and successor of Alpin,) having in his company a great number of his no- bles, went with it over into Colmkill, where he buried it in the Abttey, amongst the sepultures of his elders, together with the residue of the body, in very solemn wise, &s appertained.** Attention has been awakened, in this quarter, to the fate of King Alpin, from the following circumstance : A few weeks ago, as some labourers were employed in dig- ging near the site of the stone, called the King*B Cross, mentioned above, they disco- vered the skeleton of a human body, within six or eight yards from the cross. The few fragments of bones that remained were much decayed ; and not more than eighteen inches beneath the surface of the ground. There were no traces of a coffin ofany kind ; and the skull was attiched, or quite contiguous, to the other remains. It is quite out of the question to suppose that these could be the remains of Alpin, even admitting, what is not improbable, that afler his decapitation and the head car- rjod awny, as n trophy by the Picts, the trunk might have been interred near the A|>ot where the battle took place, and where the stone cross was erected, in memory of the engagement. It is noticed in the former Statistical Account, that " not very remote from the mound or hillock, on which the King's Cross stands, there is another little hill in which were discovered eight or ten graves, having the bottom, sides, and tup of flag* stones. The head of each grave was due west. The bones mouldered away on be* fng touched.*' Mr Chalmers, in his Caledonia, controverts the whole of the account given of Ring Alpin by Buchanan, Ilullinshed, Roece, and others, and insists that these au* tliors have confounded Pictish Elpin, who fell in 730, with the Scoto-Irish Alpinj who fell a century after, at Laich Alpin, in Ayrshire. This statement rests princi- pally on the authority of** the Register of St Andrews," and " the foundation char- ter of the town of Ayr, by William, in 1197, which, when dcsciibingthc limits of its ix.lusivc trade, calls for Lacht Alpin, the stone or grave of Alpin, as one of its dis- tui;;uisliinj; boundaries.*' — See Chalmers's Caledonia, page 303. f 'i'he following particulars are stated in the former account, as connected with the above mentioned fact : ** Alexander, according to the custom of those days, having a donation made him, at his baptism, by the JEarl of Gowrie, his god-fathcn 9f thi2 lands of Lifl'and Invergowrie, no sooner succeeded to the throne than he be- Ifan to ^rect this palace, as Fordoun calls it. He was not, however, long permitted LIPF AND BEN VIE. 581 Subterraneous Caves and Buildings. — In the former Account of this parish, a full and interesting description is given of a subter- raneous building, discovered, it is said, a few years before, near Luudie House (now Camperdown.) The following is the account given of it, somewhat abridged : ** The discovery was made in consequence of th^ frequent in-* terruptions experienced in ploughing the field. Upon a search being made, flat stones were found of a surprising breadth, which were employed to cover certain artificial recesses which then ap- peared. One was larger than the rest, being 6 feet in breadth, 1*2 in length, and 5 in height. The walls and floor were of stone. This communicated with other smaller apartn>ents by a passage about 2 or 2) feet wide. The building stood on the shelving side of a rock. On the compartments being first opened, all of them were filled with a rich black mould, on removing which, the re- ixiains of some burnt matter were found, and fragments of bones, but so small, as rendered it impossible to ascertain whether they belonged to the human body or not. There were likewise found some querns or hand-mills, about 14 inches diameter, much worn, supposed to have been used in grinding corn. In the centre of some of these querns, a small bit of iron was fastened, showing the handle to have been of that metal." Before this building was closed, we are told, it was minutely inspected by the late Sir Da- vid Dalrymple, Lord Hailes. On the farm of Balgartno, near the Tay, the plough is still frequently interrupted by stone coffins, as they are termed, of very rude construction. They abound parti- cularly in the vicinity of the large boulder above noticed. Church of Invergowrie. — Under this head must be noticed thd remains of the church of Invergowrie, believed to be the most an- cient place of Christian worship to the north of the Tay. The walls, however, which are standing, and are very entire, are of the plainest masonry, and bear no marks of antiquity. They cannot to remain in it, without being uisturbed. Some of his followers or attendants from Mearns and Morayshire, having joined in a conspiracy to seize oil bis person, the plot was discovered in the moment when they were endeavouring to force the doors of the palace, in the night ; and the King, assisted by his chamberlain, Alexander Carron, the son of that Carron whom Malcolm 111. had difttinguished by the sur- name of Scrimgeour, and preferred to the office of carrying the royal standard, hap- pily effected his escape. Embarking then at Inveigowrie, he directed his course to the southern parts of the Icingdoni, where he raised a great force in order to repel and punish this insurrection. But, before proceeding in his expedition, he founded, ae a tribute of gratitude to God, for the late deliverance and protection he had experien* ced, tie church of the Monastery of Scoon, and made over to that church, in do/cm et gleham^ the lands of Liff and Invergowrie^ formerly assigned to him, as a prescut^ hy the Earl of Gowrie.'* — Vide Fordoun's Scot. Chron., also Bucbanan. 582 FOUFAUSHIRE. possibly have belonged to the first edifice, erected by Boniface, a legate or missionary, who landed at that place from Rome, during the seventh century. On this point reference is made in the for- mer account to Ek)cth. Hist., Archbishop Spottiswood, and For- bes on Tithes. The space enclosed within the walls of the church has, for generations, been appropriated as the burying- place of the families of Invergowrie and Mylnefield. The church- yard is often washed by the Tay. III. — Population. From the former Statistical Account, it appears that, by Dr Webster's report, the number of inhabitants at that time was 181 1. The village of Kirktown of Liff is said to have contained in 1650 one-third at least of the whole inhabitants; the number of the whole, according to a report made by the minister about that time to the Presbytery of Dundee, amounting to 400 and upwards.* Several of the feus hiiving been, about the beginning of the last century, purchased b> Lord (iray, and taken into his pleasure- t> rounds, as was also the glebe of Liif, the village was restricted to its present limits. It contains at present '26 families. By dci!reet of annexation for LiflT and Benvie, dated August 1753, the examinable persons, or those above ten years of age, were reported to be 650; the examinable persons in Benvie, 150; Dtal, 800. By a survey of the inhabitants in January 1792, the number of examinable persons amounted to 1451. By the census of 1831, the whole population is stated to be 4217; the increase chiefly in the village of Locliee. That village being now politically con- nected with Dundee, or within the Parliamentary boundary, the population at last census (June 1841) was taken in connection with Dundee, and not with this parish. On that account, the precise amount of the inhabitants of Lochee is not known to me ; but it cannot be under 3000 souls. In the parish of LilF and Dcnvic, exclusive of Lochee, the nuinl)cr of souls by l«»t census is . . . . 15Qg Number of families, .... 304 employee! in agriculture, . . JoO nianufarturcs, including female weavers, 145 mechanics, • • . . 40 labourers, .... B7 masons, . , . .30 " '* The lands of 1-in'were part of an endowment to ihc monusti^ry of Scoon, and appear to have iK'en feued out by the commendator of that monastery into eight parts about the time of the Iteformatiiui. This lai long to the kirk-session ; and one of the galleries, with the consent of the heritors, is let for the benefit of the poor; and the proprie- tor of Powrie allows the rent of some unappropriated pews in the aisle, which is his exclusive property, to be applied to the same be- nevolent purpose. The average number of communicants is 280, and divine service is generally well attended. There are' few sec-s taries in the parish. The manse, which was built in 1811, and repaired in 1832, is now sufficiently comfortable and commodious. The glebe rather exceeds five acres of good land, which may be estimated at L.15 a year. There is an allowance of L.1, Ids. 4d. in lieu of pasture, which the present incumbent has not hither- to claimed. The stipend is, of money, L.106, 14s. 8d. ; of wheat, 3 bolls 1 firlot ; of barley, 28 bolls firlots ; of meal, 45 bolls 3 pecks. The average amount of stipend for the last seven years, converted to money, is L.180 a year. The Crown is patron. Education. — The parochial school is generally well attended. All the ordinary branches of education, also the Greek and Latin languages, are taught very successfully. The salary of the school- master is L.34, 4s. 4^d. ; the fees and his emoluments as session- clerk may probably amount to L.26 annually. He is provided with more than the legal accommodations. There are no persons in the parish above six years of age unable to read. The people, ge- nerally speaking, are alive to the benefits of education, and show a laudable anxiety to have their children instructed in every es- sential branch. Poor. — The number of persons at present receiving parochial aid is 6. The average allowance to each is 4s. monthly ; besides, 4 596 FOUFARSHIRE. tbey receive occasional supplies in cases of emergency, and al- ways an annual sum for coals* It may be added, that the kirk- session is extremely willing to lend a helping hand to deserving individuals or families involved in temporary difficulties. The poor certainly discover much less disinclination to seek for paro- chial relief than in former times. Still the spirit of independence is not wholly extinct. There are no assessments for the ordinary poor. The heritors defray the expense of supporting an insane man who lives with a private family. They also contribute L. 10 Sterling yearly towards the payment of the board of a pauper lu- natic in the asylum at Dundee. The deficiency is supplied from the ordinary funds. Annual amount of collections for the benefit of the poor, L.27 ; dues of morcloth, L.d, 10s. ; seat rents, L.7, lis.; interest of a capital of L.100, L.4; total L.42, Is. Alehouse. — The parishioners, generally speaking, show no dis- position to encourage the multiplication of public houses. There are only two in the parish, which are frequented chiefly by wayfar- ing people. Fuel. — The fuel principally in use is English coals, imported at Dundee or Broughty Ferry. 1842. PARISH OF RESCOBIE. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. * L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name of the parish is of uncertain origin. It is sometimes spelled Roscobie. In former days, it seems to have been called Rescolpyne, t)r Rescolbyne,t and Roscolpin. % Extent. — The parish lies from east and by south, to west and by north. It is about 9 miles long, and from 1^ to 2^ broad. It contains perhaps about 17 square miles. Boundaries. — It has the parish of Forfar on the west ; Kirrie- * Drawn up by the late incumbent, the Rev. William Rogers. f Vide Forduni Scotichronicon« Lib. v. cap. 29. ^ See No. v. of the Appendix to Innes's Critical Essay, p. 803. RESCOBIE. 597 muir on the north-west corner ; Oathlaw or Finhaven and Aber- lemno on the north; Aberlemno, and Guthrie, and Kirkden on the east ; and Kirkden, and Dunnichen and Forfar on the south. The 6gure of the parish is very irregular. There are four hills connected with, though not wholly situated in the parish, — the hill of Dunnichen or Burnside, the top of which forms a part of its southern boundary ; the Green hill of Burnside, to the north of the mansion-house ; the hill of Carse, in the north-west quarter of the parish ; and the Double hill, whose base is about half a mile to the north of the lake, called, on the east part, the hill of Turin, and on the west, the hill of Pitscandly. From the top of this hill, especially the east top, where it is called the hill of Turin, there is one of the 6nest and most extensive views, both of sea and land, any where to be had. The hills of Dunnichen and of Turin are said to rise about 600 feet above the lakes ; and the lakes are said to be 186 feet 9 inches above high water at Arbroath. Hydrography, — The lake or loch of Rescobie, which intersects that part of the parish which lies between Dunnichen and Turin hills, is more than a mile long, and more than the third of a mile in breadth, where widest. ^The depth is very variable, being from 2 to 20 feet. It is of ordinary temperature. The Lunan water, which has its source in the north-west part of Restenet Moss, runs through the lake of Rescobie from west to east, then through the lake of Balgavies, and, after a course of about ten miles farther, falls into the sea at Lunan Bay ; and there is a streamlet or burn, called the Lemna, that takes its rise in the neighbouring parish of Aberlemno, giving, probably, that parish a part of its name, and running west through the lands of Carse, fi)rms for some space the boundary betwixt this parish and Forfar on the south ; skirts the west side of this parish, forming there also the boundary between the parishes of Forfar and Res- cobie ; turns to the east, at the north-west boundary of the parish, where it bounds this parish from Kirriemuir ; and running for four or five miles in an easterly direction, through the southern part of the parish of Oathlaw or Finhaven, discharges itself near Finhaven Castle, into the Esk, nearly opposite to, or almost directly north of, its own source in Aberlemno. Geology and Mineralogy. — Charles Lyell, Esq., Junior, of Kin- nordy, has, in his Elements of Geology, given a section of twenty miles of Forfarshire, from north-west to south-east, from the foot ii 598 FORFARSHIRE. of the Grampians to the sea at Arbroath, in which he describes Turin Hill ; and this distinguished geologist has most obligingly honoured the writer of this with a communication concerning the strata and rocks of Turin and Pitscandly Hills, wherein he says, *^ Rescobie forms one of a great line of lakes and marshes, which extends through Strathmore to the loch of Forfar, and from thence to Lunan Bay. Like most of these lochs, it is surrounded by hil- locks, and ridges of sand and gravel, containing boulders of many Grampian rocks mixed with fragments of paving-stone and other formations, such as occur in the immediate neighbourhood. " The hills of Pitscandly and Turin, the highest point of which is 627 feet above the loch of Rescobie, and 814 above the sea, consist of the gray paving-stone interstratified with conglomerate or pudding-stone ; the whole forming one of the oldest members of the old red sandstone formation. " The dip of the beds in the Wemyss quarry, in the hill of Pits- candly, is rather to the westward of north, and at an angle of about 16" ; it is more than forty feet thick, and is covered by a mass of puddingstone about thirty feet in thickness. In the hill of Turin there are two cliffs, one above the other, facing to the south, in both of which freestone and conglomerate appear. " On the farm of Baldardie, the pebbles in the conglomerate con- sist not only of white quartz, chlorite slate, trap, and other crys- talline and igneous rocks, but also of well-rounded masses of a red sandstone with quartz pebbles. This fact deserves notice, as showing, that in this region, a more ancient red stone had been formed, consolidated, broken up, and rounded by water before one of the oldest portions of the old red of Forfarshire originated. - " The upper precipice of conglomerate, in the hill of Turin, is about thirty feet perpendicular, and is overhanging at the summit. " In the great paving quarries of Turin Hill, remarkable exam- ples occur of wedge-shaped beds of conglomerate and paving-stone. Thus one bed of conglomerate attains a thickness of twenty feet at one place, and grows gradually thinner as we proceed westward, until it thins out and gives place to pavcrnent-stone ; the 6ne grain of which is strongly contrasted with the coarseness of the consolidated gravel with which it has been associated. *' The Quarry Park pits, on the estate of Turin, supply an abund- ance of fine pavement ; and they exhibit a remarkable fault, run- ning nearly in the line of the strike of the beds, or north-east and &outh-west, and shifting the beds about six feet perpendicular. RESCX)BIE. 599 This fault, which is about a foot wide at the surface, widens as it descends to nine feet, below which it has not been worked. The materials with which the rent ha's been filled are composed of the ruins of the pavement beds. " Boulders and Erratics. — Over the surface of the hills of Pits- candly and Turin, especially on the northern slope, at consider- able heights, are scattered many blocks, both rounded and angu<* lar, of rocks which must have been transported from great dis-* tances. They are mingled confusedly with fragments which have been derived from the contiguous hills. Some of the erratics are of hornblende-slate ; others of mica-slate. One of these last, measuring three feet in its longest diameter, occurs within fifty feet of the sumniit of Turin Hill ; but the example most worthy of notice is to be seen about fifty feet below the top of the hill of Pitscandly, about 500 yards north-west of the farm of Baldar* die. The block consists of mica-slate, of a hard and durable kind, in which the quartz predominates, and in which the laminae are much bent and zig-zaged. This kind of rock is seen in situ on the northern extremity of the Creigh Hill, north of the lake of Lintrathen ; and this is one of the nearest points in the Gram- pians, from which the block in question could have been trans- ported. The fragment is angular, and measures 13 feet in length by 7 in breadth, and stands 7 feet high above ground : close to it, are four other angular pieces of the same kind of rock, from three to six feet in diameter. Few geologists, of the present day, will be disposed to deny, that this huge fr;]gment must have been carried into its present position by the agency of ice; although a great difference of opinion may exist, respecting the manner in which it and its companions were conveyed from the Grampians, across the intervening hollow of Strathmore, and lodged in what may be considered as the flanks of the Sidlaw hills. " Organic Remains, — The only ones hitherto met with, occur in the pavement of Quarry Park, and appear to be vegetable impres- sions. The same have been met with in Fife, and have been QdiW^Afucoidal, One of them consists of an assemblage of small hexagonal plates, first noticed by the Rev. Dr Fleming, in a si- milar stone, and of the same age, near Flisk, in Fife.** Thus far the learned professor. The writer hereof may only add, that in the upper Wemyss quarry, or quarry north of Wemyss farm-house, a fossil tree is stated to have been found imbedded in a stratum of calmstone ; and that the trunk, the branches, and 4 600 P0BFAR8HIRK. even the leaves were distinctly visible. James Powrie, Esq. of Reswallie) has in his possession a portion of it that had been ap- parently near the root There are five quarries on the south side of Pitscandly and Turin hills : one of them not wrought at present In the four that are wrought, the point and amount of dip of the strata were taken by the minister and schoolmaster of the parish, and are as follow : — In the Quarry Park, the point of dip is from 30'' to 40^ east of the magnetic north, that is, from more than half a point to rather more than a point to the east of true north, and the amount of dip is from 6 to 6| inches on a yard ; that is, forming an angle of about 10^. In the Turin Hill quarry, the dip points exactly to the magnetic north ; and the amount of dip is nine inches on a yard ; that is, the angle of dip is 14°. In Wemyss upper quarry, the point of dip is also the magnetic north, and the amount of dip is 8^ inches on a yard ; thus forming an angle of dip of nearly 13** ; and in Wemyss lower quarry, the point of dip is also to the magnetic north ; and the amount of dip or inclina- tion is 9J inches on a yard ; or at an angle of rather more than 15^ It is evident from the preceding statements that the point of dip of the Quarry Park alone is a little to the east of true north. In the other three quarries, it is to the west of the true north, just as f^ir as the declination or variation of the compass, that is, about two points west of true north. It is to be observed also, that the amount of dip is different in all the quarries. In the Park Quarry, it was a little different in different places. And between the upper and lower Wemyss quarries, there is the difference of an inch and a half upon a yard, although the two quarries do not seem (o be much above a hundred yards distant from one another. The way in which llie conglomerate repeatedly alternates in some of these quarries with the paving-stone is truly astonishing. It may be stated also, that all the workmen that have been at the different quarries in the county, attest that, north of Viney water, the dip of the strata is to the north, and that to the south of that water it is to the south. The same also plainly appears from Pro- fessor Lyell's section of Forfarshire in his Elements of Geology. In the loch of Rescobie, there is still a considerable quantity of marl. There are in many places two beds or deposits,— the up- per bed consists of fine shell marl, though at times intermixed RESCOBIE, 601 with clay, sand, moss, and other extraneous substances; the lower bed is of inferior quality, of a sandy colour, and has but few shells. The marl in the loch was dragged till of late years, and used as a manure, especially in compost. And the farmersof Drimmie and Turin, that are liferenters, have still a right by their leases to drag marl yearly for their respective farms; and they bad for many years a boat for the purpose. This privilege, however, for some time past, has not been exercised. The soils in the parish are very various. Some 6elds are of a thin moorish soil. Some are gravelly sharp land, and bear a heavy boll. Some are clayey, and some loamy. There is not unfrequently a considerable variety of soil, not only on the same farm, but in the same field. On a good part of the estate of Carse, and also of the estate of Pitscandly, the soil is, for this part of the country, particularly fertile. Zoology. — The writer knows of no very rare species of animals in the parish. The roebuck, Cervus capreoluSf is now and then seen in the woods of Burnside. Falco (Bruginosus^ moor-buzzard, was seen by Mr Don on the hills of Turin and Pitscandly. The wild swan. Anas cygnus^ has occasionally visited our lake, but very seldom. Anas Strepera^ the gadwall or grey duck, and A. penelope^ or wigeon, are visitors of it. Ardea stellarisy the bittern, a rare bird, is sometimes to be seen in the lake of Rescobie. Telraote" trixj the blackcock, (two of which Mr Don of Forfar mentions were shot at Turin hill in the winter of 1794,) is now not uncom- mon. It is seen occasionally in the eastern quarter of the parish. Emberiza Schoeniclus, reed- bun tin or, is common near the lake. Mo^ tacilla salicariay reed-sparrow, is seen among the reeds by the side of the lake, but it is not very common. The loch of Rescobie would abound, were it not for the nume- rous fishers from Forfar, in pike, and perch, and eel ; but there is no trout. Pike has occasionally been taken out of the lake, of a large size. The largest that the writer has himself seen, was about 17 or 18 pound weight, and about 3 feet long; but considerably larger are said to have been caught. Of worms, of the order In- tcstina^ the following, Planaria fusca and lacieay are found in the lake of Rescobie. Botany, — Mr Don, in his " Account of the native plants in the county of Forfar," says, Helvella spathulata^ and Clavaria mili^ tarisy are to be found in General Hunter's woods at Burnside, be- sides a great many others. I may also add the Boletui perennisy i 602 FOUFAUSniRE. vtrsicolor^ ahietinus^ suberosusy and igniaritis : the latter is called touch-wood, being used for tinder. Also the Riccia Jructiculosa^ with Jungermannia scalaris^ albicans^ ovata^ trichomanisj and ex* cisa. When the botanist traverses the marshes, and examines the lakes, he will find his trouble amply repaid. In the lakes of For- far, Rescobie, and Balgavies, he will meet with the Typha latifo- lia ; this is also in a rivulet not far from Pitmuies, by the side of the turnpike road that leads from Forfar to Arbroath. In the lakes of Rescobie and Balgavies, are likewise to be found NymphcBa lu^ tea and alba^ and Ceratophyllum demersum ; and on their margins, Lysimachia thyrsijlora : the latter plant, though rare in other parts of Britain, is not uncommon in Angus-shire. Potamogeton perfoliatum^ lucens^ crispum^ pectinatum^ compressunty gramineum^ pusillumy likewise occur in these lakes. Cicuta virosa^ which is one of the most virulent of all [the vegetable poisons, grows on their margins. Cattle, when allowed to browse by the sides of the lakes in the winter months, are sometimes deceived, by its smell being very weak at that season ; and when once they have eaten it, it generally proves fatal in two or three hours. When the summer is a little advanced, the odour of the plant warns the cattle, and then they carefully avoid it. The Scirpus lacustris, the well known rush so much used for making rush-bottomed chairs, is common. The more remarkable plants in the parish are the following : Dianthus y^rTwenV,- discovered on fields near the scat of Charles Gray, Esq. of Carse, the only place where Mr Don had seen it in Scotland, Crepis pulchra, among the debris of the rocks of the hills of Turin and Pitscandly, but very rare, — and one of the Zoophytay the connecting link between the vegetable and animal kingdom, called the Spongia lacusiris^ observed by Mr Don in the lake of Rescobie. ' Plantations. — There are several thriving plantations in the pa- rish, though of no great extent. They consist chiefly of common larch, and spruce fir, though frequently intermixed with ash, and oak, and birch, and elm. There are soils congenial to every sort of timber. II.— Civil History. Rescobie seems, in times long since gone by, to have been a place of considerable consequence. It once had its castle like other places of importance ; but not a vestige of it now remains. The place where it stood cannot with certainty be pointed out^ or HESCOBIE. 693 accurately ascertained. Tradition bears that the name of the castle was Bairnsdale, or Barnsdale, perhaps a corruption of Banes* dale, and that the foundations of the castle are still to be seen in the loch in a clear day. It is evident from the kirk-session re- cords, that Rescobie once had its kirk-town ; but this town also has disappeared. Rescobie is said to have been a considerable burgh of barony. It seems to have formed a part of the archdeaconry of St Andrews, and it gave name to a barony within the regality of St Andrews. In 1557, the Archdeacon of St Andrews, with the permission of the Archbishop and chapter, granted to Richard Shoreswood a charter of the lands of Wilkieston (in Fife), and of the brewlands and alehouse of Rescobie. In 1561, at the general assumption of the rents of ecclesiastical benefices, the spirituality of the kirk of Rescobie is stated as a part of the benefice of the archdeacon. And in the Archbishop's tax roll of 1630, Pitscandly, Carsebank, Carse, Balmadies, and mill of Rescobie, appear among the lands which held of the archiepis- copal see.* Eminent Characters. — King Dofnald, or Donald the seventh, called by some Donald ^ane, the brother of Malcolm Canmore,f is said to have died in confinement at Rescobie, anno 1097. After being defeated and taken prisoner, his eyes were put out by the or- ders of his nephew, King Edgar, according to the cruel policy of a barbarous age. The *' Chronicon Elegiacum," a monkish poem, alluding to these things, says, ** Rursus Dofhaldus, Duncano rege perempto, Ternis rex annis regia sceptra tenet. Captus ab Edgaro vita privatus. At ille Rcscolpyne obiit : ossaque lona tenet '*$ For Rescolpyne there is given as a various reading in the mar- gin, Rescolbyne. It has been doubted whether the expression in the third line, " vita privatus," means that King Donald was re- duced to, and lived in a private condition, or that he was put to death by Edgar. But the words that follow seem plainly to re- strict the expression to the first of these interpretations. Of this illustrious but unfortunate personage, it is said again, " Donald Mac-Donachat regnavit iii. annis. Hie captus est ab Edgar Mac- * From Martini Reliquiae Divi Andrea;. t Knox's Topography of the Basin of tlie Tay. ± Forduiii Scotichronicon, Lib. v chap. 29. 604 FORFARSHIRE. Malcolm, coecutus est etmortuus in Roscolpin, sepuUus in Duo- keldon : Hinc translata ossa in lonam.* Valued 7?f7i^.«— The valued rent of the parish is now thought to be L.2586 Scots. In the tables attached to Mr Headrick's sur- vey of the county, the valued rent is said to be L/iGld, 16s. 8d* Scots. When Mr Headrick's tables were drawn up, the real rent of the parish is stated to have been L.1800 Sterling. It would ^ now be, if all the liferent leases were expired, considerably upwardi of L.5000. Land-owners. — The land-owners of the parish are, Charles Gray, Esq. of Carse, who has of valued rent in this parish L.580, lds.4d. Scots; John Farquhar, Esq. of Pitscandly, L. 566, 18s. 4d. ; General Hunter of Burnside, L.516, 13s. 4d«; Sir Charles Ochterlony of Ochterlony or Balmadies, L.489, 14s. 2d.; Mrs Car- negy of Lower and Turin, for Drinimie and the Moss of Rescobie, L.188, Ids. 4d., and no valued rent at all, so far as can be seen, for the lands of Turin, lying in this parish ; James Anderson, Esq. of Clocksbriggs, for Rescobie, L.100; William Powrie, Esq. of Reswallie, L.100; and James Mudie, Esq. of Pitmuies, L.4d) 12s. 6d. ; the Earl of Strathmore, according to the county cess-roll, L.29, 16s. 8d. There are two other proprietors, the proprietor of Dunnichen, and the proprietor of Guthrie, who have some acres of land, and each of them a house in the parish, but who are liable to no pub- lic burdens whatever. Parochial Registers. — The date of the earliest entry in the pa- rochial register is 23d December 1677. The register of dicipline, and of receipt and expenditure of poor's funds, previous to the or- dination of the present incumbent, consists of three volumes. There are several chasms or blanks between the dates in some parts. The third volume is not filled up beyond December 1785. Since the admission of the present minister, two new volumes have been commenced and continued, — one for minutes of discipline, and another for receipt and expenditure of the poor's funds. There are, besides, a register of baptisms or births, and another for proclamation of bans. From the session records it is evident, that for some time sub- sequent to 1677, the Presbytery to which the parish of Rescobie belonged, was the united Presbytery of Dundee and Forfar. It appears also from these records, that since 23d December 1677, • From No v. of the Appendix to Innes's Critical Essay. KESCOBIE. 605 to this date, November 1840, there have been seven ministers of Rescobie, namely, Mr Patrick Lyon, who succeeded Mr David Lindsay, and was ordained 23d December 1677, and died in Au- gust 1703. Mr John Dougall, who was admitted 22d March 1704, and died 1st December 1723. Mr John Dougali, said to be son of the preceding, who was admitted 15th September 1725, and deposed about May 1748. Mr Robert Trail, who was ad- mitted on the 21st July 1749, and translated to Panbride, Octo- ber 1763. Mr William Key, who was admitted April 26th 1764, and died September 1776. Mr Thomas Wright, who was admit- ted on 3d April 1777, and died on 9th April 1808; and Mr William Rogers, who was admitted on the 10th May 1809. From the session records it appears also, that there was a Mr William Arthur presented to the parish, but not ordained. On 3d July 1748, an intimation is given of a meeting of Presby- tery *^ to be held at Rescobie the 1 4th instant, and then to offer Mr William Arthur, the patron's presentee, to the parish." On the 14th, the Presbytery met according to appointment, but it is not said what was done. The presentee, however, seems never to have . been accepted of, or admitted; for on the 8th January 1749, an- other meeting of Presbytery is intimated to be held on the 19th, to make an offer of Mr Trail to the parish to be their minister. During the period already mentioned, namely, from 1687 to 1840, it appears that there were 27 schoolmasters in this parish. For a considerable time, they are spoken of as admitted to the of- 6ce of reader and schoolmaster. And it appears that the Pres- bytery were then accustomed sometimes to delegate their power of deposition of schoolmasters to kirk-sessions ; for, in a minute of session, dated 2d February 1735, a Mr Walker is, according to an act passed by the Presbytery to that effect, deposed by the minister and session in the Presbytery's name. Antiquities. — There are two stones at Blackgate of Pitscandly, concerning which there have been various conjectures. Some have imagined them to be rude monuments of distinguished chiefs that fell there in battle. Now Buchanan informs us that there was a very bloody battle fought at Restenet betwixt the Picts and the Scots, when Feredeth, King of the Picts, was slain. This battle took place about the year 831, when Alpin was King of the Scots. Buchanan says,* " cruentissima pugna usque ad noctem incerta victoria conflixerunt.*" Restenet is near to Pitscandly, which is * Rerum Scoticarum Historia, Lib. y. cap. 57. * 606 FORFARSHIRE* siiid to mean the grave of the multitude. Indeed, in early davs, the mansion-house of Pitscandly was on the northern border of the lake of Restenet, where it is not improbable the battle, mentioned by Buchanan, took place. The learned and Rot. Mr Headrick of Dunnichen, however, seems .to think these stones the remains of a Druidical circle,* and states that it is the only one he has seen in the couiUy of Angus* He speaks of some of the stones having been '* demolished, so that the circle is not now complete." This may be the true state of the case. It is not impossible that the large stone, which is more than ten feet high and more than six feet broad, marks the place where Feredeth, King of the Picts, fell, or was buried ; and that the other stone is in memory of some other inferior but also distinguished chief* Many of high rank fell at the same time with the King. Buchanan says, *' cum flore nobilitatis una interiit." There is also a ruin on the top of Turin Hill. It is thus de* scribed by Mr Wright in his Statistical Account : " It has evi- dently been anciently a stronghold, or place of defence, consisting of various extensive contiguous buildings, with a circular citadel of about forty yards in diameter. The situation has been well cho- sen, being secured by an impregnable rock in front, much like the face of Salisbury Crags, and of difficult access all around. It is now called Kemp or Camp Castle." The Rev. Mr Headrick takes no notice of this ruin ; but it is evident from what he savs with regard to others, that he would class it among the hill-forts that were very skilfully built of rude stones without any cement. And he thinks that their original object was to protect particular tribes against the violence of their neighbours, with whom they ex- ercised deadly feuds. This is not an improbable account of the matter. There is scarcely a vestige now of the '* extensive conti- guous buildings ;" but there are still some remains of the " circu- lar citadel." It was measured by Mr Arthur and the writer; and the thickness of the walls was, in one place, [•) feet, and in other, at the south-east corner, 14. The diameter within walls was 83 feet 4 inches from west to east, and 92 feet from north to south. The area of the circle within wall is 685 square yards. Many of the stones of the foundation are more than 3 feet long, from 2 to 3 feet broad, and about 1 foot thick. There is a circular place on the Hill of Pitscandly called Roh's Rede, which was probably also a place of defence. The form • .\i»ncullural Uepoit o\' KuiAirshire, p. 177. RESCOBIE. 607 is still visible ; but the fort is entirely demolished, only one or two of the foundation stones remaining, and these almost wholly cover* ed over with grass. The Castle of Rescobie has been already mentioned. There were, till lately, the ruins of another place called Weems or Wemyss Castle, — a little to the north-east of the farm of West- mains of Turin. It is said to have been possessed by one Lind- say, who was a relative of another of the same name at Balgavies in the parish of Aberlemno, and where the ruins of a castle are still distinctly visible. These two Lindsays, it is said, united their forces, and beat off Kemp, the possessor of the stronghold on the top of the Hill of Turin, and compelled him to retire to another castle that he had at Dunnottar. The ruins of this castle or fort were, a few years ago, completely removed. There is a place on the farm of Rescobie, belonging to Mr Anderson of Clacksbriggs, which was formerly called the Bloody Butts. Perhaps this is a corruption of Blood«witts, which was a fine paid to the superior in cases of manslaughter, on account of the proprietor losing so much of his property or live-stock, — for so the common people were once accounted, being viewed as adscript i glebw. This portion of land, then, may have once been paid as a compensation for blood that had been shed. When the railroad was forming, the workmen came upon one of those subterraneous buildings called weems, probably from the Gaelic wumby a cave. It was on the farm of Wemyss of Pits- candly, in the third field from the farm-house, and near to where the bridge is, that crosses the railroad. There was an ancient hand-mill, called a quern, found in it, and a good deal of ashes towards the inner end. Some think that these subterraneous build- ings were hiding-holes, formed by the ancient inhabitants, for the purpose of concealing both their persons and property, during sea- sons of danger. Others, again, have supposed that they were winter habitations of the rude natives. There is on the estate of Balmadies, or Ochterlony, and farm of Chapelton, a cemetery, called the chapel-yard. In that bury- ing-ground, there are 18 stones, 15 of which are in a row, belong- ing to the Pearsons of Balmadies. The oldest date which can be discovered on the stones is 9th June 1625, and the latest 10th November 177 J. It is probable that this had been a Roman Catholic erection. Modem fiti{Mtn^<.-r-The mansion-houses in the parish are thosQ FORFAR. RT 608 FORFARSHIRE. of Burnsidei built by the present proprietor's father ; Balmadies, now Ochterlony, built in 1821 by Mr Stephens, the late proprie- tor ; Pitscandly, an old but good housOi pleasantly situated on the west side of the Hill of Pitscandly ; Carse, belonging to Charles Gray, Esq. ; Drimmie, belonging to Mrs Camegy of Lower and Turin, the sole trustee for her son, who is a minor ; Reswallie, a neat house on the south-west side of the lake of Rescobie. There is a new flour and meal-mill at Milldens, which was erect- ed by Mr Stephens when proprietor of Balmadies. III. — Population, Amount of population by return to Dr Webster in 1755, 796 last Statistical Account, . . 9S4 census 1801, . . 870 1811, ... 920 1821, ... 874 1831, . 806 1041, Too The cause of the decrease of population seems to be the in- crease, in three or four instances, of the size of farms, — two, and in one instance three, being thrown into one ; and a considerable portion of the property of the principal proprietor being at present, and having been for some years» laid out in grass. The number of proprietors having land of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards is 8, — two of them^reside in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres, standard imperial measure, in the parish, cultivated or occasionally so, is about 4735 ; and the number of acres of permanent pasture, about 617. There is no undivided common in the parish. The number of acres un- der wood is about 536, The Scotch fir is indigenous in the neighbourhood. The kind of trees generally planted is, the Scotch fir, the larch, oak, ash, birch, elm, frequently intermixed. Rent o/*/#a7i£2.— The average rent of arable land per imperial acre in the parish is about L.l, 4s. There is a great variety in the value of arable laud in this parish, as it varies from 1 6s. to L.2, lOs. per imperial acre. It is not usual in this quarter to let pasture land at the rate of so much per ox or cow grazed. Grass parks are let at so much per acre, or per park, as can be agreed on. The average value of permanent pasture in the hands of the far- mers, per imperial acre, is about 8s. The value of the permanent pasture runs from 5s. to L.l, 10s. per imperial acre. There are very few sheep kept permanently in the parish, till they 3 RESCOBIE. 609 are fed off. The common breed of the cattle is the Angus^shirO} with a mixture here and there of the Durham. Manufuctures.'^The only manufacture in the parish is that of coarse white linen. The number employed in weaving it, is 99 males and 26 females. V. — Parochial Economy. ^ Market^Toum. — The nearest market- town is Forfar, distant rather more than three miles from the parish church. There is no village in the parish, and only four or five hamlets. Means of Cammvnieation. — There is no post*office. There are two turnpike roads that extend through the parish from west to east, one from Forfar, running on the south side of the loch to Arbroath, and another from Forfar, on the north side of the loch, to Montrose. And there is the turnpike road from Forfar to Brechin, that extends through the west and north-west end of the parish. There is also the Auldbar turnpike from Brechin, which skirts a small part of the east side of the parish. The length of all these in the parish cannot be less than nine or ten miles. The state of the bridges and fences in the parish is good. The railroad betwixt Forfar and Arbroath was opened in De- cember 1838, constructed for conveying passengers and goods. It has hitherto succeeded beyond expectation, especially in the number of passengers conveyed since it was opened. Ecclesioitical State, — The parish church is centrically placed. It was built in 1820, is in good repair, and abundantly large for the population. It affords accommodation for 560 persons with ease. The manse was built in the summer of 1837, is a substantial house, and has a neat appearance in front. The church and manse are beautifully situated on the north side of the lake. The extent of the glebe is betwixt eight and nine Scotch acres, or about eleven acres imperial. Some part of the glebe is well worth L.2 an acre, and some of it scarcely wortl^ L.1. The amount of the stipend is 1^1 30, 12s. 3j^d. Sterling, and 68 bolls, 1 firlot, 3^ lippies of meal, and 28 bolls, 3 firlots, and 3| lippies of barley. The number of families attending the Established Church is 132 ; the number of communicants 350. The number of families of Dissenters, is, one family of Inde- pendents, three of Episcopalians, seven of the United Associate Synod, and one family of no religious profession. The number of communicants, belonging to these DissenterS| 610 FORFARSHIRE. is, of Independents, 3 ; of Episcopalians, 1 1 ; of the United As- sociate Synod, 16. There is, besides, one servant woman, an Anabaptist, and another a Roman Catholic, in the parish. In one or two cases, the heads of families are Dissenters, and the families themselves belong to the Established Church. In some other (jases, there is a servant a Dissenter, whilst the heads and all the rest of the family belong to the Established Church. Education. — There is no school at present in the parish, except the parochial ; and in it the ordinary branches of education are taught. The fees are very moderate. The salary of the school* master is L.dl. The average amount of school fees per annum is L.10, or L.11. The schoolmaster has the legal accommoda- tions. Library, — There is a parochial library in the parish, conducted by a committee of managers. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor at present on the roll or receiving parochial aid, is 12. The number varies from 8 to 12 or 13. Besides the regular monthly allowance, there are sums paid for house-rents, coals, clothes, funeral expenses, &c. amounting to about L.12 a year for the last seven years. The average yearly amount of church collections for the last seven years is L.26, 8s. 3^d. The yearly average amount of other funds for the same period is L.9, 1 Is. 8|d. As we have, for a number of years, been expending more than we have been receiving, the heritors have kindly and wisely come forward, and contribute a sum every half-year in order to prevent the funds we have from being wholly swept away. The disposition among the poor to refrain, from seeking parochial relief is still exhibited in some few instances ; but it is fast disappearing. Fairs, — There are no fairs held now in the parish. In former days, but very long ago, there was one held near the manse. Tra- dition calls it St Triduane's, commonly pronounced St Trod- lin*s. It is now held at Forfar; but there is a stone still standing near the kirk-stile, where, it is said, the superior of the fair, Lord Strathmore, or his deputy, held, on fair days, his court. Alehouses, — There are three alehouses in the parish. Fuel, — The principal fuel used in the parish is coal, procured usually from Arbroath. ■ft PARISH OF KINGOLDRUM. PRESBYTERY OF MEIGLE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MBARNS. THE REV. JAMES OGILVY HALDANE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Namej §fc. — The parish is said to have derived its name from three Gaelic words, signifying the head or junction of the bum of the Drums, Extenty Sfc* — The figure of the parish being very irregular, only an approximation to its extent can be given. It may be said to contain about 20 imperial square miles. It is bounded by the pa- rishes of Kirriemuir and Cortachy on the north and east ; by Airlie, on the south ; and by Lintrathen, on the west. The sur- face of the ground everywhere presents an undulating appearance. Considerable tracts of level land intervene between ridges of low hills, which are themselves frequently indented. The banks of Baldovie, Balfour, and Meikle Kenny present a very agreeable appearance ; while those adjoining to Pearsie, though less extent sive, are not inferior in beauty. The parish is situated in the braes of Angus. Catlaw, the highest hill, rises to the height of 2264 feet above the level of the sea, from which may be had one of the most extensive prospects in Scotland. The German Ocean, from Montrose round to the Frith of Forth, great part of the coast of Fife, the Bell-rock Lighthouse, Berwick Law, Arthur Seat, together with some of the highest mountains in the Western Highlands, are discernible. To the north may be observed some of the loftiest mountains of the Grampian range. Meteorology* — The lower division of the parish is elevated about 600 feet above the level of the sea, from which it is about twenty- four miles distant. The atmosphere is exceedingly dry and pure, except in the neighbourhood of morasses, of which there are still a few. Hydrography, — The parish is everywhere abundantly supplied with water. The principal streams are the Prosen, Melgum op 612 FORFARSHIRE. Melgund, and Carrity. They all afford excellent fishing for small trouU Salmon seldom frequent them, except at the spawning season. The Burn of Crombie may also be mentioned. It passes the village of Kingoldrum, and, after forming a sort of semicircle^ falls into the Melgum. There are several springs in different parts of the parish, the waters of which are chalybeate. There is a cascade, or rather a series of waterfalls, called the Loups of Kenny. The river Melgum suddenly enters a narrow, deep, and tortuous channel, in passing through which it is precipitated at short intervals from a very considerable height. The scenery here is much admired. Geology* — The parish is characterized by several parallel ridges, which run from east to south-west. The lowest of these, namely, the Kaimes of Airlie, is composed of the great conglomerate. On the top of the ridge the imbedded pebbles are very numerous; but where the ridge falls to the north and south, the sandstone greatly predominates, and is here used for building. The dip is various. The next ridge is that of the Kirktonhill, Schurrocbi &c It is trap, or rather conglomerate composed of various trap rocks. To the north of this ridge, in the valley which intervenes betwixt it and the next, occurs a dike of serpentine, the features of which are very interesting, and which are very fully described by Mr Lyell, in Vol. iii. of the Edinburgh Journal of Science. As it occurs at the West Balloch, in the parish of Kirrie- muir, this dike is very remarkable, and well worthy of minute inspec- tion. " After leaving the West Balloch," says Mr Lyell, " it first appears, at the distance of about four miles, on the farm of Burn- side, in the parish of Kingoldrum. The small burn in whose channel it is here obscurely exposed, falls afterwards into the Back- burn. The rocks, which are there clearly seen associated toge- ther, are greenstone, with serpentine, containing much dolomite^ and a red indurated rock abounding in brown spar. A little higher up, as on the Carrity, the claystone porphyry appears, which must not be considered as having any connection with the serpentine. If we continue our line to the south-westward for about two miles, we arrive at the ravine through which the Melgum flows, when the serpentine is not recognizable, unless it be considered as re- presented by the great dike of greenstone which crosses the river immediately below the mill of Shannaly.'* To the north of this dike of serpentine lies another range of hills, composed of trap conglomerate, clay porphyry, and grcywacke. The hills of Crau- KINQOLDRUM. 613 yard and Catlaw, immediately north of the last-mentioned strata, are composed of greywacke, clay-slate, and mica slate. A bed of blue slate is found to run through these hills; but it is not sup- posed that it would be profitable to open it up. Boulders of the primitive rocks, bearing the action of water, or some hard sub- stance, are to be found in all parts of the parish. The distribu- tion of the ground, especially on the property of Pearsie, is highly favourable to the glacier theory. The numerous mounds of gra- vel, &c. of every variety of position, size and form, are evidently the detritus of the neighbouring hills. These have been quoted by Mr Lyell in confirmation of his late opinions in reference to such deposits. Part of the Loch of Kinnordy is in the parish, and the marl procured from it has been much used by the farmer for the improvement of grass lands. Peat mosses are very com- men. Oak trees have been found in them of much greater size than any that grow at the present day. On the top of Catlaw is a moss of considerable extent On the north shoulder of the wester Schurroch, and betwixt that and the river Melgum, occurs a bed of a variety of porcelain clay. The soil resting on the great conglomerate is partly of a sandy nature, partly moorish, and partly of a mortary till. That on the trap formation is a rich loam : this forms the best land in the parish. To the north of the church there are about fifty acres of clay soil, lying on a bed of moss, which has been formed by water. The land in the north- ern part of the parish is composed partly of black earth, intermix- ed with a sandy soil, and some parts are very moorish. Botony.— The plants distributed over the parish are such as are generally found in upland and subalpine situations. The fol- lowing, being of local or less frequent occurrence, may be men- tioned :— - Hippuru8 vulgaris PUntago maritima Alcfaemilla alpina Bymphytum officinale Menyanthes trifbliata Lysimachia ncmorum Viola lutea Gcntiana campestris Meum athamanticum Daucus carota Linum catharticum Trien talis europsa Epilobium angustifolium -»— i^i^-— > alpinum Polygonum Hydropiper Adoia moschateUina Pyrola media ■ minor Chrysosplenium alterni' folium Sazifraga stellaris — ««^— aizoides i— — > gpwiulata ~— favpnoides Stellaria faolostea Arenaria rubra Sedum Telephium Ozalis acetosella Anemone nemorosa Trollius europceut Cardamine amara Geranium lucidum Genista Anglica Hypericumhumifusum ■ pulcfanim Gnaphalium dioicum ■ syWaticum -^— »— -— supinum ■ I minimum Gymnadenia oonopsea Habenaria viridls ■ albida ■ bifolia Juniperus communis. Rubus frutioosus I ■ saxatilis —«— Chamsmorus i 6]4 ' FORFARSHIHE. The following species are occasionally to* be met with in the neighbourhood of houses : Anchtisa sempervirens, Verbascum thap- 8USj Agrimohia eupatoria^ Chelidonium majus. Viola palustris id found on Catlaw, at about 1500 feet above the level of the sea. Echium vidgare sometimes appears in cultivated fields. Lydk* nis viscaria grows in great abundance on rocks on the banks of the Melgum. Cerastium arvense is pretty common on gravelly soil. Adnos vulgaris is very abundant on light ground having a south- ern exposure. Listera cordata is not unusal in woods. Lemna trisulca may be more particularly noticed. This singular plant is found along the course of a spring that rises in the swampy ground below the hill of Landhead, and is associated with Fera^ nica scutellata and Myosotis palustris. We are not aware that this plant has been found in a more northern habitat. The plantations are principally composed of larch and Scotch fir. Some old Scotch fir at Balnathrash, on the estate of Pearsie, is very superior. Though it has a cold northern exposure, the trees have attained a great size, and are considered nearly equal in quality to those which grow in the forests of Braemar. The larch planted within the last thirty years is not in a thriving con- dition. The trees become infected with canker, and gradually decay. There is a good deal of natural wood around and near the house of Pearsie, composed of birch, oak, and alder copse. II. — Civil History. The chartulary of Aberbrothock, which is preserved in the Li- brary of the Faculty of Advocates, contains the only authentic re- cords which throw any light upon the early history of the parish. These records are, so far as they are connected with the parish, particular in their details, and embrace the period betwixt 1253 and 1500. They are presented to us in a form somewhat repul* sive, but convey much information, particularly interesting to the antiquarian. By a foundation charter of William the Lion, the whole lands are made over to the abbey of Aberbrothock. This grant is confirmed by Alexander III., and afterwards by Robert Bruce. The words of the charter are, " Kyncoldrum cum sua tota skyra," &c. and again '^ totam terram suam et nemora mea de Kyngoldrum schyr in forestam.'* From this, Tytler in his History of Scotland remarks, that the term shire was anciently given to districts of much smaller extent than the sherifiships of the present day. There is a proclamation of Alexander II L pro- hibiting any one from cutting wood or hunting in the forest of , KINGOLDRUM. 615 Kiugoldrum, without the consent of the abbots ^^' Quare prohibeo tirmiter nequis in eis/' &c. Three perambulations made at dif- ferent periods by the abbots and monks distinctly mark out the boundaries of the parish. It is not a little remarkable, that the names then given to the several farms and hamlets 600 years ago are the same as at the present time. What portion of the parish was covered by the royal forest it would now be difficult to say, as no traces of it can be discovered. Flint arrow-heads have been picked up in the fields to the eastward of the church. Perhaps these may have been used in the pursuit of the chase. Eminent Characters.-r-Scoitj an eminent judge in Toronto in Upper Canada, was the son of a minister of that name in this parish. Land-owners. — The landed proprietors in order of their valued rent are : Thomas Farquharson, Esq. of Baldovie ; David Wed* derburn, Esq. of Pearsie ; The Right Honourable The Earl of Airlie ; the Heirs of the late Alexander Stormont^ Esq. of Kin-* clune; The Honourable Colonel Ogilvy of Clova; Mrs Colonel Young of Ascreavie. Peter Wedderburn Ogilvy, Esq. of Ruthven, possesses a small part called the Mill and Mill lands of Auld Allan ; but for some reason unknown, he has never been reckoned as an heritor. Parochial Registers. — There are six volumes belonging to the kirk-session. They have been accurately kept, save during the incumbency of one clerk of session. Parents are very negligent in registering the births of their children. Antiquities. — The Castle of Balfour, built by Cardinal Beaton, is the only building of antiquity. It has long been dismantled, and a ruin^ but must originally have been a place of consi- derable strength. The structure is in the Gothic style* The family of Balfour has long ago sunk into that of Fotheringham of Powrie. Mr Farquharson of Baldovie, the present proprietor, lately caused two wings of the castle to be taken down, to afford materials for the erection of a farm-house. The beauty of the old ruin has been, in consequence, in a great measure destroyed^ There were on the hill called Schurroch, at three different places equally distant from each other, several large stones, erect* ed in a circular form called Druidical temples. One of these has been removed. Upon the top of the hill, Catlaw, there is a large cairn of stones ; but whether these stones be the^ruin of some rude building, or a place of observation from whence sigi- 616 FOEFARSHIRE. nals might be given on the approach of an enemy, is uncertain^ Stone coffins have occasionally been found in the fields. On tak* ing down the old church, various stones, on which singular devices had been cut, were discovered imbedded in the building. Two stones on which crosses are finely carved, with accompanying hieroglyphics, may be particularly mentioned. These stones it is probable had their origin about the time of the introduction of Christianity into our country, and would seem to be a connecting link betwiit Pagan mythology and Christian worship. Several rude relics which may have been esteemed precious in the time of Romish supremacy were likewise found. Mansion^Houses. — The mansion-house of Baldovie occupies a highly agreeable and well sheltered situation. It is ornamented by wood, and a great part of the land in its neighbourhood is of the richest description. The house of Pearsie is still more plea- santly situated and ornamented. The farm-houses that have been erected within the last twenty years have been greatly improved in appearance and accommodation. IIL — Population. The population of the parish has very much decreased in amount. Several small villages have entirely disappeared, and the sites of cottages to about the number of fifty, once the residence of a hardy, industrious, and attached peasantry, can now with dif- ficulty be traced. According to Dr Webster the population was . 780 About the year 1796, . . . 600 1811, . . 587 1821, males, 256, females, 261, total, 517 1831, do. 237, do. 207, . do. 444 1841, do. 232, do. 208, . do. 440 The yearly average of births for the last 7 years may be from 16 to 20 The average of burials for the last 20 years is, per annum, 6^ marriages, . 3| The number of families, . 89 inhabited houses^ . . 74 The decrease of population has been principally owing to the union of farms, and to the removal of the smaller tenants to the neighbouring towns, who have gone there in search of employ- ment ; but who, in many cases, have eventually returned to in- crease the pauperism of our districL The evils of this system of depopulation are now beginning to be severely felt by the farmer, who, in the season of harvest, has to depend for assistance on the uncertain supply of the neighbouring towns. Mr Wedderbum of Pearsie has lately built several neat cottages, which are not RINGOLDRUM. 617 more convenient to the neighbourhood, than ornamental to his property. Habiti ofOu People^ <$*e.--^The people, generally spetkii^, are obliging, hospitable, and affable. They are peaceable and inoffen- ai?e in their dealings, generally moral m their behaviour, attentive to the ordmances of rel^on, regular in their attendance in the pa- rish church, and in the obaervaBoe of the Christian Sabbath. Poachmg in the salmon fisheries formerly prevailed ; but this has been completely ehecked. IV. — Industry. The parish may be said to be completely agricultural. There are scarcely any families who are not in some measure connected with the operations of husbandry. The number of imperial acres, cultivated or occasionanj in dllage, may be ttatea at, . . , S500 Number of acres which never have been cultivated, . 7000 which might be improved so as to undergo a regU4 lar rotation of eroppingy • 800 under wood, natural or planteci^ 1500 12800 Rent of Land. — The average rental of land may be stated at about L.1, ds. per acre. Rental — The real rental of the parish is about L.4123. Live-stock. — The number of sheep kept is from 1200 to 1500. They are principally of the black-faced breed, but crosses have been lately introduced. The Angus-shire black cattle are the most common. In gene- ral, the stock purchased for grazing and feeding cannot be sur- passed in any other district of the country. They are generally sold to dealers for the London, Edinburgh, and Glasgow markets. The general rotation of cropping is what is termed the sixth, that is, three years in grass, two grain crops, and one green crop, or clean fallow. A very considerable improvement has taken place of late years in respect to husbandry. Much waste land has been reclaimed, and furrow*draining has been very successfully intro- duced. The general duration of leases is nineteen years* v.— Parochial Economy. Market-Townj ^c— Kirriemuir, distant four miles, is the near- est market-town, at which, at convenient seasons, markets for sheep, horses, and cattle are held. The only village, properly so called, is in the neighbourhood of the church. The parish is conveniently intersected by roads, but they are kept in a bad state 1618 ^ FORFARSHIRE. of repair. This arises partly from the insufficiency of the road* money, though principally from a most imperfect mode of manage- ment It is to be hoped that measures will soon be adopted to remedy an evil universally complained of. The bridges are not so numerous as they require to be, and several are Tory insecure. The fences are partly of thorn, and partly of dry stone* They are imperfectly kept, and deficient in number. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is centrically situated, and as convenient as could be for the greater part of the popula* tion. Its distance from the farthest extremity of the parish is five miles. The date of its erection is 1840. It is built alnaost on the same site as the former church was, which must have been erected previous to the era of the Reformation, and which had be« come ruinous and unsafe. It is a plain building, but neat and comfortable. The church-yard walls have been rebuilt, and the whole ground suitably laid out The church affords accommoda- tion for 240. There are no free sittings, the whole area being di- vided among the heritors and their tenants. The manse was built in 1792. An addition was lately made to it, and it under- went a very thorough repair. It is now in every respect commo- dious and comfortable. The glebe is about 4 acres. From the excellency of the soil, it is of considerable value. A grass glebe of 12^ imperial acres was lately designed to the minister, from church lands in the neighbourhood of the manse. The decreet of the Presbytery, however, has been opposed by the heritors, and the matter is at present in dependence before the Court of Session. The amount of the stipend is L.157 of money, and 6 bolls, 8 pecks. Of lippy of bear. L.1, 8s. Id. was formerly paid in name of grass money. The church was originally a parsonage be- longing to the abbey of Arbroath. After the erection of the ab- bey into a temporal lordship, the burden of the stipend devolved upon the titular of the tithes, — the consequence of which was that, by the decreet of provisions dated in the year 1635, a considera- ble part of the stipend was allocated upon abbey lands, in the neighbourhood of Arbroath, from which it continues to be payable* All the inhabitants, with the exception of the families of the two resident heritors, who are Episcopalians, belong to the Establish- ed church. The average number of communicants is about 200. Education, — There is no other save the parochial school in the parish. The branches of education are those which are usually taught. The salary of the schoolmaster is L.23 in money and KINOOLDBUM. 619 6^ bolls of oats, payable in kind, the collection of which is felt to. be a grievance by the teacher. This method of payment being, in the opinion of eminent counsel, contrary to the statute, ought to be abolished, and the value, as ascertained by the Exchequer, added to the money salary. The schoolmaster has lately be^n provided with a comfortable house. He is not in possession of the legal quantity of garden-ground. Generally the people are alive to the benefits of education ; though the real end and de- sign thereof is often defeated by mistaken views of the method of its attainment. The district of Pearsie, where at present the greatest number of children are, is too distant from the parish school. It is desirable that a teacher were permanently settled there. Xftirary.— There is a circulating library in the parish com- posed of religious books. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of paupers receiving parochial aid may be stated at from 3 to 4. In times of distress, a few are temporarily relieved ; by which means they are prevented from falling as a regular and permanent burden on the parish funds. From Is. to 6s. is given weekly to those re- ceiving aid as regular pensioners. The average of the last seven years' collections made in the church for behoof of the poor is L.12, 13s.; interest arising from capital annually, L.10; mort- cloth dues, 15s. 8^d. ; total, L.23, 8s. Bj^d. Although the pa- rish has never enjoyed any other method of obtaining funds for support of the poor, save by collections in the church ; yet it has been enabled to provide for their wants by this method alone. Besides accomplishing that object, a small capital has been accu- mulated. The disposition of independence, so long and so warmly cherished by the Scottish peasantry, is on the decline. The parish being divided into large farms, the practice of keeping bothies is almost universal. This may be advantageous to the farmer, but is certainly most adverse to the morals of the labouring population. Puel — Peat and wood constitute the principal fuel. Scotch and English coals are, however, becoming every year more com- mon. The latter are obtained from the Newtyle, Glammis, and Forfar railway depots. Miscellaneous Obsebvations. In the last Statistical Account, the number of arable acres is stated to have been between 3000 and 4000. The number of acres 620 ^ FORFARSHIRE. in that state at present we have stated at 3500. As a great quantity of landy however, has been improved and brought into a state of cul- tivation within the last forty years, much of the inferior land, for- merly arable, is at present allowed to lie^ as permaoent pasture. Owing to the high prices realized from cattle, this is not thought disadvantageous to the fiurmer; but undoubtedly a very great deal of land in all parts of the parish could profitably be culti- vated, provided the necessary expenses of improvement were in part defrayed by the proprietor. The real rental, at the date of the last Account, is stated to be L.1600; the present rental is about L.4123. Thus, while the number of arable acres has ostensibly remained nearly the same, the rent of land has increased nearly 300 per cent Though this is partly owing to the profits of the grazier, it is chiefly to be accounted for by the introduction of a superior mode of husbandry, and by increased industry and enterprise on the part of the te- nantry. For the last six years, owing to the unSeivourable nature of the seasons, the farmer has sustained a very considerable loss by his grain crops. The high price of cattle has alone enabled him to retain his independence and hold his lease. Should thia source of profit fall much in value, proprietors will certainly not realize their present rents. The climate of the parish might be much improved, and the value of many fields greatly increased by the shelter afforded by planting. The conveyance of farm produce might be greatly facilitated, and an advantage might be got of fa- vourable markets by a better mode of managing the roads, which, in winter especially, are almost impassable. The number of cottages should be much increased, and a few acres of inferior land annexed to them. Examples might be pro- duced to show that, by an outlay of about L.30 ou the building of the necessary houses, a rent of about L.6 might be obtained from six acres of land, the value of which at present is very small. December 1842. PARISH OF EDZELL. PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANOUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ROBERT IN6LIS, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Namc-'^THZ name is written Edzell or Edzel, and in the old records, often Edziel. It is pronounced Aigle or Eagle. It is supposed to be a Gaelic word signifying the clefts or dividing of the waters. The main body of the parish is a peninsula, betwixt the two branches of the North Esk, here named the North and West Waters, which unite at the bottom of the parish. Edzell forms the north-east point of Forfarshire, the lower part bounded by Fettercairn and Strackathrow ; the middle by Lethnot on the west ; and the part in Kincardineshire bounded by Fettercairn on the east ; the upper or water side by Lochlee, on the west ; and the north, by Stracban and Birse in Kincar- dineshire. The peninsula is about three miles long, by two wide. Above that, the parish swells into about four miles in width. Beyond, the parish stretches up the north water, on both sides, six or seven miles. The form is very irregular. 11. — Civil History. Lindsay or Lindesay of Edzell was proprietor of six-sevenths of the parish. The family were powerful, and appear to have acted under their kinsmen, the Earls of Crawfurd. To Lindsay be- longed Edzell, Lethnot, and Lochlee, with domains towards Fin- haven, upon the one hand, and Brechin upon the other ; which seem to have been parted with, before the Gnal breaking up of the family. As a proof of pristine superiority, the lands of Edzell are at this day exempted from paying custom at the great Trinity June fair of Brechin. * Drawn up by the late incumbent, the Rey. Andrew Hutton. 622 FORFARSHIRE. Lyndesay of Glenesk (Lyndesius de Glenesk) was companion to Lord Douglas, King Robert Bruce's right-hand man, and he accompanied The Douglas towards Jerusalem, with King Robert's heart. This family, Lyndsay, now of Edzell, seems to have used their power over their vassals, as other great chieftains, with sufficient kindliness, unless when their vassals were needed as instruments for vindicating their own greatness, or that«of their friends or party. The Gallows^hill remains to this day. There is a small lake which was employed when drowning was the order of the day. A snug little lairdship was held by the Duries of Duryhill, as he- ritable deropsters to the Lairds of Edzell. In 1643, the Laird, his Lady^ the Wishart^ his brother, factor, and other friends, the minister and session-clerk, subscribed the Solemn League and Covenant, with names appended of about 170 male parishioners. A change of views seems, however, to have soon taken place. Whether it was the same laird or another, or why or wherefore, it is vain to inquire; but, in 1661, I find rejoicings for Charles II.'s accession ; for King James's victory over Mon- mouth and Argyle; for the birth of King James IL's son, and every disrespect to King William's fasts and thanksgivings ; and hostility to the re-establishment of Presbytery, in so much, that, in 1714, there was a very serious riot and deforcement, to the bodily hurt and danger of Mr Robert Gray, Presbyterian mini- ster of Edzell, which affair the laird was glad to settle by the ad- vice of the Lords of Justiciary. In the latter end of 1714, or beginning of 1715, the estates of Edzell were brought to sale in Edinburgh for behoof of creditors, and were purchased by the Earl of Panmure, who fought and was wounded at Sheriffmuir ; and these newly acquired lands, with the Earl's paternal estates, became escheat to the Crown. They lat- terly fell into the hands of lessees under the York Building Com«> pany, who endeavoured to make the most of them by short tacks of three or four years. William (Irish) Earl of Panmure, then in His Majesty's ser- vice, a near branch of the family, bought back all the estates, both original and acquired. Antiquities. — " The castle of Edzell is a very extensive ruin, and consists of two towers connected together by what had once been a range of magnificent apartments. The square tower on the south, call- ed Stirling's Tower, is evidently of much older date than the rest of EDZBLL. 623 the building. Tradition reports, that this tower was built and in- habited by a family of the name of Stirling, from whom it descend- ed by marriage to the Lindsays of Glenesk. The round tower on the north, and the other parts of the castle, appear to have been built at different periods after it came into the Lindsay family.'' Edzell was one of the mansions or castles which Oliver Crom- well, in 1651, occupied with a garrison. It ceased to be a resi-* dence in 1714 or 1715, when its owner left it. It was partially occupied in March or April 1746, by Colonel John Campbell, then a very young man (afterwards the late venerable John Duke of Argyle), whose duty it was to skirt along the braes with the Argyle Highlanders, while Duke William marched north through the heart of the country. At Colmellie, on the base of Mount Battock, are two so-called Druidical circles, one with a portico or entrance, enclosing an area of 45 feet by 36, the other less. At Dalbog there was another circle, of which only one stone is now standing. III. — Population, The population in 1791 was 963 1801, . 1012 1811, 1057 1821, 1043 1831, 974 1841, . 1076 Towards the end of the seventeenth century, the population would seem to have been much as now. In 1684, and several years after, the baptisms appear to be regularly inserted, and the number was much as it is now, — 24 per annum. Proprietors. — There are two proprietors, neither of them resi- dent: Lord Panmure, who has six-sevenths, and John Gladstone, Esq. of Fasque, who has one-seventh, being that part of the pa- rish in Kincardineshire, formerly a parish by itself, called New Desk, and to which a burying-ground is still -attached. IV. — Industry. Planting, — Under wood there are about 200 acres (imperial.) About 90 acres, chiefly larch, was planted about forty-two years ago, and is now yielding profit. About 1060 imperial acres are waste, yielding little pasture. Perhaps one-third is improveable. There are about forty-six square miles of hill, all within this parish, chiefly brown heath, with occasional more kindly patches from water springs, or allu« vial soil. FORFAR. S S ^^' f,»''-"' jer»to size. Indeed, in r»'^ ta tfflMigement from moor, •' fif^ ^ ;„ f^J^'J>"""^ » °^ **® imperial acres, one '''%,^'''^,i^'- ^fO '^^ '•'"' ^"^"^ *®® *° ^' *®" ih^"''^ **p'^'/^A ^'''laod, *««Mes about 55 acres held by -?^tl--^;i/'7^^ar£d«ell. filiin ^^ '*^ptfi a^ ^^ I gubsist since 1768, of which it is obvious ftecl^ ^^^ le»^ ^^^ must now be a trifle. The remaining ^"l^ i»^'' * ..I'table leases of nineteen years, at from 16s. the '*" V oa «fl"' IV '"* Iperia/ acre. pfO^f^' ^^^ttvA under oats and barley, at 30 bushels per acre, at \^ 'ftiper bushel, being average of nine years fiars of oats and barley, f^ aoDUOi* L. 4, 9s. (seed deducted), L.6741 'JJJpef and turnips, at L.6 per acre, 5040 S^Mod pasture, at L.3, 5b, per acrc» . 5460 L. 17241 V. — Parochial Economy. The village of Edzell, formerly called Slateford, has undergone very great improvement within the last three years. In 1 839. Lord panmure granted building leases of ninety-nine years duration ; and, in consequence, a great many substantial and comfortable bouses have been erected, which are set down according to a re- g4)lar plan, and must all be built of stone and lime, covered with slate, and have small flower-plots in front, enclosed by low parapet walls. The annual rent of these leases is at the rate of L.8 per Scotch acre, and the value of the house erected must not be less than L. 40. The village contains about 300 inhabitants, and has a sub-post-oflic)B established in April last with a daily runner from Brechin. In the centre of the village, a very handsome building has been lately erected by Lord Panmure, which is to be occupied as a post-oflice and reading-room. There is also an excellent and commodious inn in the village, and at the Cannachy Bridge, a mile further north, there is also a very good inn. The scenery on the river North Esk, in the immediate vicinity, is very picturesque and attractive to strangers. The locality of the village is healthy, and much resorted to for summer lodgings. Ecclesiastical State — The church, built eighteen years ago, in 1818, is a roomy, well finished building, and as commodiously si- tuated as can be for a parish of such a form. There are 650 sittings : 10 sittings are set apart for the poor. 4 EDZELL. 625 Communicants for several years, 490 ; in 1842, 590. There are nine or ten families Scots Episcopalians, with about 28 or 30 individuals. There is one Roman Catholic family. The manse was built forty years ago, and the oflSces thirty years ago, and both are in good repair. The stipend is L.129, 6s. 9d. paid by heritors, and the teinds being exhausted, L.17, Os. 6d. by Act of Parliament ; also 8 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 lippies of meal, and 5 bolls, 2 firlots, 1 peck, 3 lippies bear, which added together (exclusive of L. 8, 6s. 8d. for com- munion elements) amounts to L.150. Glebe about ten anda-half imperial acres of indifferent land. There is also a piece of moor given about fifty "two years ago to the minister in property, in exchange for a servitude for turf, of which the present incumbent has reclaimed about seven acres, by ploughing, draining, and inclosing. Education. — The parish school at the village of Edzell is well attended, and the intellectual system has been pursued in it for the last ten years. The schoolmaster has the maximum salary, L.34, 4s, 4^d. and a very commodious school and schoolmaster^s house were erected in 1841. Tlie fees are moderate, and may amount to L.24 : the session clerkship yields him L.4. There has also been built in the part of the parish in Kincardineshire, a new school and school-house by John Gladstone, Esq. of Fasque, to which is attached a small endowment of L. 10, which, together with the school-fees, may make an income to the teacher of about L.24 per annum. There is also another school at Killock, six miles from the parish school, taught upon the teacher's own ad« venture, and pretty well attended, especially' during winter. Religious instruction is well attended to in all the schools, and the parish teacher has taught a Sabbath evening school for the last two years, which is often thronged, and in which the present minister gives his assistance. Markets, — There are three in the year : one In August, long established, now on the wane ; two established some years since by Lord Panmure, for sheep and cattle, the one on first Monday of May, the other in October. Both these are growing in accep<>^ tance with the public, the times being favourable, and the site convenient. Salmon-JUhing, — There is one, the highest on the North E^k, rent formerly about L.50 or L.60, when both cruivesand nets were employed. It is now unlets but much resorted to by rod*fisher8»- G2() FOKFARSHIRE. Manufactures. — One branch of nnanufacture is a wool-mill, of several years standing, for carding and spinning wool, and making blankets, which may employ about 34 hands, men and women. The other is a branch of the coarse linen trade from Montrose, the head a great London House, having here about twenty-seven looms. In 1842, the looms have increased to 50. Drawn up December 1S34. Revised by the present Incumbent^ November 1842. PARISH OF ABERLEMNO. PRESBYTERY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JOHN CROMBIE, D.D., MINISTER. 1. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries^ Sfc. — Aberlemno is bounded on the north by the parishes of Tannadice and Caraldstone, from which it is separated by the river Esk ; on the north-east and east, by Brechin ; on the south-east, by Guthrie ; and on the south and west^ by Rescobie. . The small river Lemno, from which the parish derives its name, has its origin in a spring near the house of Carsegownie, (a farm towards the western extremity of the parish,) and which, after flow- ing a few miles in a south-westerly direction, and winding towards the north, around the western extremity of the hill of Oathlaw, takes then an easterly course, and falls into the Esk, near the ruins of the ancient castle of Finbaven, and little more than a mile from its source. As Aberlemno signifies at the mouth of the Lemno, the name is somewhat inapplicable, inasmuch as the nearest boundary of the parish is almost half a mile distant from the estuary of the Lemno. It appears, however, that a portion of the estate of Pinha- ven, adjacent to the south bank of the Lemno, and now annexed to the parish of Oathlaw, was once a part of this parish. The outline of an ancient church, close to the mouth of the Lemno, is still visible, which was probably the original church of Aberlemno, although tradition expresses a doubt whether it may not have been a chapel attached to the neighbouring c^istle of Finhavcn, once a strong- hold of the Lindesays. ABEllLEMNO. 627 Extent — This parisii occupies a large portion ; not less, per- haps, than eighteen square miles of a hilly district lying towards the south of Strathmore. Some of the higher portions being ra- ther bleak, are covered with broom and heath ; but the lower parts are generally fertile. One of these, extending several miles along the south bank of the Esk, is subject to occasional inundations from the overflowing of the river. The hills are not of great height. Turin hill, the highest of them, is 800 feet above the le- vel of the sea, and 600 above the adjacent lakes, so that the ele- vation of the lower parts of the parish is not more than 200 feet above the level of the sea. The temperature is consequently mo- derate, and the climate healthy. There are no diseases peculiar to the district. Hydrography, — The only lake in the parish is that of Balgavies, close to the Auldbar-road station of the Arbroath and Forfar RaiU way, which is situated on the southern border of the parish. The lake furnishes to the angler a tolerable supply of pike and perch* Marl was at one time dredged from the bottom, and used for ma-^ nure ; but this is now discontinued. Rocks. — The south-west part of^the parish abounds with excellent freestone, of a greyish colour. Several quarries are at present in operation, yielding not only stones fitted for the ordinary pur- poses of building, but paving stones also, of superior size and qua- lity, and a durable though somewhat heavy gray slate for roofing. floods. — In the middle and on the north side of the parish, there is a great deficiency of wood. In the south-east, however, on the estate of Auldbar, and in the west, on the slope of Turin hill, there are considerable plantations of fir; but the most thriving wood, apparently, is the hard-wood of various kinds planted around and near to the houses of Auldbar, Turin, and Balgavies. II. — Civil History. Land-owners. — The landed proprietors of this parish and their estates are, the Right Honourable Earl Minto, Melgund ; Pa- trick Chalmers, Esq., Auldbar and Pitkennedy ; Lieutenant- Co- lonel Dalgairns, Balgavies ; Patrick Rickard, Esq., Balglassie ; Charles Gray, Esq., (of Carse), Carsegownie ; Rev. Dr Buisi, Tillywhandland and Kirkton ; R. A. Watson Camegy, Turin ; James Webster, Esq., Flemmington ; William Morgan, Esq., Balbinnie ; William Smith, Esq., M. D., Damside. Rent. — The valued rent is L. 4233, 6s. 8d. Scots. Mr Chalmers and Mr Morgan are, at present, the only resident he- 628 rORFABSHIRE. ritors. Nearly one-half of the parish belongs to the Earl Minto, in consequence of his Lordship^s grandfather, Sir Gilbert Elliot, having married Agnes Murray Kynynmound, heiress of Melgund, whose son, the father of the present Earl, after having filled the high offices, first of Viceroy of Corsica, and next of Governor- General of Ben- gal, was, in 1813, created Viscount Melgund and Earl of Minto. The oldest son of Lord Minto is accordingly designated by cour- tesy the Viscount Melgund. There is a local tradition, that the Castle of Melgund was built by the celebrated Cardinal Beaton, and that it was a favourite country residence of that ambitious prelate, to which he frequently resorted for other purposes, says the same unwritten chronicle, less creditable to the cardinal's character, and less consistent with his vow of celibacy, than a mere love of retirement or of relaxation from the fatigues of public business. The remains of this castle are still extensive, and indicate no inconsiderable degree of strength and of magnificence. The banqueting-hall has been a spacious apartment, and, in its dimensions, exceedingly well-proportioned. The present noble proprietor, with a taste well befitting his name and rank, has alike forbidden the dilapidation of the castle, and the cutting down of the fine old trees with which it is surrounded. The Castle of Auldbar, the residence of Patrick Chalmers, Esq., lately, and until his health obliged him to resign. Member of Parliament for the Forfarshire burghs, is another of those ancient strongholds, which, in feudal times, were so frequent, and unhappily so necessary in these parts. The Castle of Auldbar is not only habitable, but is also inhabited by its respected owner, is in part modernized, and thus exhibits, at one view, the remark- able contrast of ancient strength and stateliness with modern taste, refinement, and comfort. This parish has evidently possessed, in former times, its full complement of these border fortresses, for such they may be called, as standing in the gap between the Braemen and the Lowlanders. The now antiquated but hospi- table mansion-house of Balgavies is only the comparatively modern representative of its ancient castle, of which a solitary arch re- mains to indicate the spot where once its embattled turrets frowned defiance on the approaching raiders. The house of Carsegownie is evidently another specimen of the same kind of defensive dwelling-place, though on a smaller scale than those already mentioned ; and now in a great measure divested of its strong- hold appearance, by the recent enlargement of its once loop-hole- ABERLEMNO. 629 looking windows. But a more perfect specimen is the Castle of Flemmington, about a furlong to the east of the church, being strong, stately, and dungeon-like. It is not many years since it was occupied by the proprietor, and is still inhabited by the £unn- servants. From the ancient character of the names of most places in the parish, it is evident that there have been few changes in the boundaries of estates ; few breakings up of the larger, or combi- nations of the smaller farms, for many ages past. There are few mere conventional names of places ; but most of them have allu- «on to some historical fact, or are descriptive of the locality, pr commemorative of the persons to whom they originally belonged. Such is the farm of Wander's Hill, properly the Wanderer's Knoll ; such is the hamlet of the Crosston, being near to a monumental stone, ornamented with the figure of a cross ; and such is a con- siderable number of dwelling-houses and farms, the names of vifhich begin with Bal^ signifying ^' a town or dwelling-place ge- nerally," as Balgavies, Balbinnie, Balglassie, Balnocake, and Bal- garrock. While some of these names tell us that they were the abodes, in days long gone by, of persons who, like some spoken of in the Scriptures, called their houses by their names, that they might perpetuate their memorial in the earth ; others of them, as Balgarrock, which is said to signify the house on the moss, describe the nature of their locality ; and all of them tell us that their designations were not of yesterday. Parochial Registers. — The earliest of the existing parochial re- gisters bears the date of 1706, and extends to 1716. There is then a break in the register, which may have been occasioned by the fact, that the Rev. John Ochterlonny (proprietor of the neigh-^ bouring estate of Flemmington), was the last Episcopal minis- ter of this parish, and so managed as to keep possession of the cure long after the date of his formal ejection. About the time when the foresaid record closes, Mr Thomas Mitchell was or- dained to the work of the ministry in this parish by the presbytery of Dundee ; but the register does not appear to have been re- sumed until the year 1722, when one of the first entries is a re*' solution of the session to demand from Mr Ochterlonny the poor's box and the mortcloths, with a list of the persons for whose inter-' ment they had been used during the eight previous years. The communion plate became a future subject of demand by the ses-' sion, Mr Ochterlonny having retained it also, by what he probably 630 F0RFAR8H1UE. considered his right to do so, having himself presented it, as ap- pears from the following inscription on the only cup which was recovered, and which is still in use : — " This cup is gifted by Mr John Ochterlonny, minister of Aberlemno, for the celebration of the Lord's Supper in the said church, 1683/' From the above, it is evident that the Presbyterian ministry was not fully resumed in this parish until the year 1722 ; and even then, and for some time thereafter, a considerable number of the parishioners attended Mr Ochterlonny's ministry in his own house, the Castle of Flem- mington. From about the year 1715, the oflBce of the ministry in this parish has been held by the above-named Thomas Mitchell and his descendants, by father, son, and grandson, the last of whom died in May 1841. From 1722 to the present time, there is continuous record of the transactions of the session, also of births and marriages, with an imperfect one of deaths. Antiquities, — Places of sepulture have been found in several parts of the parish. (!)airns of stones, and rude stone coffins, evidently put together in haste, mark in various places the ancient battle- field. It is evident that the neighbourhood of the church has either been the scene of a succession of sanguinary conflicts, or else some great and protracted struggle has rolled, hither and thilher, its tide of death, over the adjoining fields. In removing the stones from a tumulus some years ago, on the farm of Carse- gownie, a stone coffin was found in the centre with an urn ; also, all around the circumference of the cairn, there was a continua- tion of similar coffins, but of ruder construction, pointing out, in all probability, the spot where a chief had fallen, and where his followers, in defending him, had fallen with him: where, having met with a common death, they found also a common grave, yet marked with a difference similar to that which had distinguished them in life. A few hundred yards to the north of the church, there is a monumental stone, about 8 feet in height, ornamented on one side with a crosjr, richly carved, and with two female figures in the garb and attitude of mourning. The other side is sculp- tured iji relitvoj with men, some on horseback, and others on foot, intermingled with dogs. Near to this one are two smaller stones, which also have been ornamented ; but the hand of time has greatly defaced them. One of the most per/ect of these battle-field memorials is iu the church-yard. On ono side of this stone there is a curious ABERLEMNO. 631 cross in bold relievo, and entirely covered with flowered orna- ments. On the reverse, towards the upper part of the stone, is another ornament, having no obvious meaning, but apparently in- tended for ornament only. Beneath it, there are some figures of men on horseback, armed cap^a-pee^ with helmets. Two of these seem to be flying, but a third appears as if he were stopt in his flight by three men on foot, the first of which bears in his hand a weapon of a round form, the second has the same sort of weapon in his left hand, and in his right a spear which he is pointing at the man on horseback. The third figure is nearly obliterated. Below these, there are two other equestrian figures, one of which holds a baton in his right hand, while the other appears to be in the attitude of encountering him. It seems not improbable that these '^ cross stones of Aberlem- no" commemorate the defeat of one section of a powerful army, which Sueno, a Danish prince, sent into Scotland about the be- ginning of the eleventh century, to revenge the destruction of a previous army, and the death of his two generals, Eneck and Olave. Having landed at the Red-head, and being, near Panbride, de- feated by the Scottish army under Malcolm IL, part of the fugi- tives were overtaken, and with Camus« the leader of the expe- dition, destroyed near the village of Carnoustie, where Camiston cross still bears the name, and commemorates the defeat of the unfortunate chief. Another division betook themselves to their ships, and escaped ; but a third division, in endeavouring to reach the mountains, with the design of passing into Moray, made good their retreat for a while, but were at length overtaken and cut ofl^ says Buchanan, near the town of Brechin. From this town the cross stones of Aberlemno are distant only six miles; and they most probably indicate the scene of the event referred to by the historian. A stone of a somewhat similar appearance to those already de- scribed, and from the stjle of its sculpture, evidently belonging to the same rude era of Scottish art, is at present in the vestibule of the House of Auldbar, having been brought thither from the ruins of a contiguous ancient chapel. It belongs, however, to an entirely diflerent class of subjects, and is thus described by Pinker- ton : '^ It is well known that there exist in various parts of Scot- land, but chiefly on the east side, from the river Tay, singular erect stones, generally with crosses on one side, and upon the other sculptures, not ill executed for a barbarous age. Three are 632 FORFARSHIRE. found at Aberlemno. That at the chapel of Auldbar is singular^ as, instead of horsemen and spears, there are two persons sitting, probably religious, and beneath them, a man seemingly tearing out a lion's tongue — perhaps Samson, and opposite to him a curious figure of an antique harp, and under these a man on horseback, a lamb, and other animals." It is most probable that this was either an altar piece, or that it was intended in some way to ornament the sacred edifice whence it was taken. The subject is evident- ly a scriptural one, although, from the introduction of the harp, it is most probable that it was David and not Samson, whom the sculptor designed to represent as achievii^ a victory over some beast of prey. In the south-west of the parish, and on the very summit of Tu- rin hill, are the remains of an ancient fort, called at the present day Camp Castle. The space occupied by it is considerable, and has been fortified with a double rampart. The interior enclosure is circular, through the very centre of which there passes a mo- dern dike, dividing the camp into equal portions, between the pa- rishes of Aberlemno and Rescobie. The view from this fort is very extensive, and must have been admirably fitted for a watch- tower, overlooking the valley of the Lunan water on the one hand, and the pass from Forfar to Brechin on the other. It has been constructed with dry stones, and bears the character, seemingly of a castra (Estiva (summer camp,) of the Romans; while another fortification, two miles farther north, just beyond the confines of this parish, and overlooking the valley of the Esk, has more of the character of a castra stativa (or permanent camp), the stones hav- ing been fused and cemented by the action of fire. III. — Population. In 1755 the population was 943 1790 it had increased to 1033 1801, it was again reduced to 945 viz. males, 471, females, 474 1831, 1079 1842, 1023 The chief, and almost the only cause of this fluctuation, is the increase or diminution in demand for workmen in the slate and p avenient quarries. The yearly average of births for the last seven years is . 30 marriages, . ' . 12 burials, . . 25 The gross amount of interments during this period, 173 Of which, there were of children under 10 years of age, 84 The number of dwelling-houses in the parish, is about . 206 ABERLCMNO. 633 The number of uniohabited bouses, • •12 houses occupi^ by fiiinilies, . 193 houses occupied by solitary indinduals, 13 Of which last, there are widows, . 7 unmarried women, . 4 widower, . . I unmarried man, . . 1 Of the remaining 180 inhabited houses, there are occupied by married householders, . • 145 bachelors having households, . . 13 widows having families, • • 9 single women having charge of households, • 4 widowers having families, . •. 7 unmarried women having ikmilies, . 2 Tso The constant shifting of farm-servants is a great bar in the way of external innprovement, with one class of cottages : and even in another class more permanently occupied, the indifferent state of many of the houses, both internally and externally, affords but little encouragement to the cottager to adorn his dwelling. On some of the estates, however, the cottages begin to be better con- structed, and might be beautified at small cost and pains, by the planting of a few shrubs and flowers, by laying a little pavement near the door, and by removing the dung heap a little farther from it. In their manners, the people are peaceable, obliging, and con- tented. IV. — Industry. The inhabitants of the parish are, for the most part, en- gaged in farming occupations. Besides the few who are em- ployed in weaving and quarrying, there are just so many car- penters, masons, smiths, tailors, and shoemakers as are necessary to supply the local demand. There are four meal and barley- mills within the bounds of the parish, driven by water. All the large farms have thrashing-mills, so that there is very little work done with the flail. The farmers, who are, as a body, a most re- spectable and intelligent class of men, rear considerable stocks of cattle ; and some of them export largely to the London market both of cattle and potatoes. Bondage, or the obligation to assist in the field-work of the farmer on whose land the cottager has his dwelling, still exists here to a certain extent. Rental of Auldbar in 1763.— Bear— -73 bolls, 3 firlots. Meal — 159 bolls. Money, L.1914, lis. lOd. Scots. 12 capons, 344 hens. Yarn — 85 hasps, 3 hanks. 1 swine. In addition to the payments here stated, many services were performed by the tenants, for instance ; casting, drying, driving, 634 FOUFAUSHIRE. and stacking peats; ploughingt harrowing, &c.; cutting and lead- ing the laird's corn and hay ; giving so many days' work when re- quired, and various others. A letter of the time (1753) states that the renfs had not been raised for forty years past, and that they might be doubled without distressing the tenants. Rental of Auldbar in 1 766.— Bear— 57 bolls, 3 firlots. Meal — 127 bolls. Money, L.2666, 5a. 2d. Scots. 12 capons, 290 hens. Yarn — 60^ hasps. 1 swine, 1 wether. The multures of two mills are not included in either rental, and their value is unknown. The laird upheld nearly all the machi- nery of the mills. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Towns. — The nearest market-towns are Forfar and Brechin, from each of which the manse is distant six miles. These are also the nearest post-towns ; and the want of one near- er, or of a more regular transmission of letters than exists, is felt to be a great inconvenience. Means of Communication. — A good turnpike-road passes through the parish, called the Auldbar road, joining the railway station of that name with Brechin, and which was designed and carried through, at a very considerable expense, by Patrick Chalmers, Esq. of Auldbar. About two miles of the turnpike-road from Forfar to Montrose pass through the south side of the parish. A road, maintained at the parochial expense, from Forfar to Bre- chin, passes through the extreme length of the parish, in a north- easterly direction. Ecclesiastical State. — The situation of the church is not cen- tral, but could not be improved, without opening up new and ex- tensive lines of road, and planting it in a bleak and barren moor. The nave of the church stands on the original, and, no doubt, Roman Catholic, foundation ; but the walls, from about three feet above the ground, and an aisle, in the north centre, were built in 1722. It is capable of containing about 450 sitters; and is di- vided among the heritors for the use of their tenants. It is incon- veniently low in the roof, and very uncomfortably seated. The manse was built in 1782, and has this year, 1842, received consi- derable additions, with partial repairs. The glebe has been valued at L.15, and the stipend is rather more, in all, than 15 chalders, and is paid in equal parts of oat- meal and barley, with a small proportion thereof in money. ^rh^n^ is no Dissenting meeting-house in the parish. Two fa- ABERLEiMNO. 6ii5 milies and two individuals are Episcopalian. Three families are Seceders, and as many attend the Relief. The average number • of communicants in the Established Church is about 330. Education. — There is only one school in the parish, the paro- chial. Another is much needed in the district of Balgavies, and means are being used to obtain it The schoolmaster has the maximum salary. Library. — There is a parish library, consisting chiefly of histo- rical, biographical, and religious works. Poor. — The average number of impotent persons receiving pa- rochial relief is about 18. They receive, except in a few instances where more is given. Is. per week. Orphans, and other deserted or neglected children, add greatly to the burdens of the parish ; for the discharge of which the session receives the average Sunday collection of 10s., the collections of two annual communions, and a voluntary assessment from the heritors of L.84. With those who have been brought up in the parish, or resided in it any considerable length of time, there is in general a praiseworthy reluctance to receive parochial charity ; but with some who are in the actual re- ceipt of it, and especially with those who have been but a short time in the parish, and with all those who care little for religious ordinances, and seldom appear in the house of God, there is a growing importunity, and a total want of that Christianized feel- ing of independence which once constituted the true nobility of the Scottish nation. December 1842. PARISH OF LINTRATHEN. 1»RESBTTBKY OF MEIGLE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARN8. THE REV, FRANCIS CANNAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History, Name. — The word Lintratben is evidently of Gaelic origin* It signifies rapid lywuy — a term which is meant to apply to the waterfall near tlve church* Extent — Tjiis parish is ten miles in length : its greatest breadth five. In shape it resembles a triangle. It adjoins Airlie, on the south ; Glenisla, on the west ; Kirriemuir, on the north ; and Kingoldrum, on the east. Topographical Appearances. — The lower division of the parish consists of gentle slopes, the middle of valleys, separated by infe- rior ranges of hills, and the upper portion is composed of masses of mountains, that form part of the inferior range of the Gram- pians. The district in which this parish is situated, is generally termed the Braes of Angus, and may be described as that part of the county of Angus which lies between the Grampian range, and the valley of Strathmore. The climate, upon the whole, may be said to be favourable to health. Hydrography. — The Loch of Lintrathen, which lies within a quarter of a mile of the church, is the only loch in this parish. In shape it is nearly circular. Its circumference measures two miles and a half. The water is remarkably pure. Some years ago, a plan was proposed for carrying it in pipes to Dundee, for domestic purposes. Owing to the expense of the undertaking, and the present depressed state of trade, it is not probable that the matter will proceed farther. The appearance of the loch is highly picturesque. The Knock of Formal, which rises at the west end to the height of 1500 feet, is covered with wood to the top. The ground on north and south sides is elevated several hundred feet above the surface of the water, and is also planted. In a calm LINTRATHEN. 637 summer day, the. view of this lake, sleeping in the bosom of its wooded banks, is productive of very agreeable amotions. The beauty of the scene is much increased, when there is a play of light and shade on its waters. The Isla divides the parish on the west side from Glen- isla. For two miles, it is hemmed in by rocky banks, rising precipitously^ to the height of more than 100 feet. The beauty of this part of the river is increased by two waterfalls. The first is the Reeky Lynn. There the water tumbles over a pre- cipice of considerable height, and falls with such force upon the projecting rocks at the bottom, that the spray is often driven up in clouds many feet above the level of the waters. Hence the name. Below the fall, the channel of the river is broken by rocks jutting out from the bottom that threaten to arrest the progress of the waters. A large perpendicular mass of bare rock on the north side meets the eye, and contrasts strangely with the woods that clothe the opposite bank. The banks preserve the same varied character for several hundred yards. The numerous walks that are cut out furnish many excellent points of view. The Slug of Achrannie is the name of the other fall There the water is not thrown from such a height, but it is compressed within narrower bounds at the point of its descent. The most singular feature, however, in this scene is the appear- ance of the river after its fall. The place where it is received, is a cavity walled round with rock, and altogether disproportionate to such a body of water. Here the torrent, from the force with which it is thrown down, as well as from the difficulty it finds of getting out, writhes and rages as if in a heated cauldron. The dark shadows of the surrounding rocks, and the depth of the pool impart a black hue to the waters, wliich tends to increase the gloomy nature of the scene. The rocks on both sides of the river for half-a-mile are thrown into the most picturesque varieties of shape and form. The Melgam is the only other stream in the parish. It rises amongst the mountains, and flows through the middle of the pa- rish. Until it reaches the village, its course is smooth. Its bed then becomes rocky, and, although from that point to its junc- tion with the Isla, the distance is not more than three miles, yet there are six cascades in its course, several of which are well en- titled to a place in the album of every admirer of the picturesque «cenery of Scotland. 633 FORFARSHIRE. Wood. — Except on the banks of the rivers, there is no natural wood. Within the last thirty years^ plantations have been laid out to the extent of 1200 acres. These consist principally of larch and Scots fir ; oak, ash, beech, and plane trees have also been planted in considerable nunnbers. There has hitherto been little ornannental planting, and, except on two farms, there are do trees along the sides of the fields. II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — The session records commence in 1664. They do not appear at all times to have been kept with much accuracv. Land-owners. — The land-owners are, the Earl of Airlie ; Mr Lyell of Kinnordy ; Mr Smyth of Balhary ; and Mr Ogilvy of Ruthven. The valued rent, L. 1628, Ids. 4d.. The real rent is between L.' 3000 and L. 4000, and has hitherto been well paid. Eminent Men. — The only individual of any note that ever was connected with the parish was Sir Allan Durward, who made a conspicuous figure in the reign of Alexander III. The greater part of the parish appears to have belonged to him. His castle is now entirely demolished, but the moat that surrounded it is partly visible. Vestiges of the wall which once lined his deer-park may also be noticed. III. — Population. Amount of population in 1821, 941 1831, . 998 1841, . 981 The decrease in the population since 1831 is, in a great mea- sure, to be ascribed to the discontinuance of improvements in atrri- culture, and to the ruinous condition of the houses of the pea- santry. Emigration has not prevailed to any extent. Number of persons in the village, . . .32 in other parts of the parish, . . 949 The average of births for the last seven years, 29 deaths, . . . • . 15» marriages, . . . . 6« The number of persons under 15 years, . . ' between 15 and 30, 50 and 70, upwards of 70, Unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers upwards of 50 years, women upwards of 45, No. of ftimilies in the parish, . . . 2IC chiefly employed in agriculture, 296 in trade, handicraft, or manufactures, 1(5 LINTRATUEN. 639 There is only one person deaf and dumb in this parish. No cases of insanity have occurred for a considerable time. In the course of the last seven years, the number of illegitimate births in the parish was 7. IV. — Industry. Agriculture^ — The soil in this parish is generally of a deep black loam, and is under an excellent system of culture. The imple^ ments of husbandry and the work-horses are in general as good as those that are met with in any part of the county. Owing to the severity of the winter, wheat is raised in small quantities,* but oats and barley are produced on every farm. Although the average produce of an acre of these kinds of grain may not be more than h\x bolls, yet the quantity of straw is very large in proportion* This circumstance is of very great advantage to the farmer, for it enables him to turn his turnips to good account in the fattening of cattle. Turnips are sown to a considerable extent on every farm. They thrive uncommonly well. From twenty to thirty cattle are fed by many farmers in the winter season, and in springs when brought to market, they yield, on an average, L.14 each. The cattle that are generally selected for stall feeding are of the black Angus polled breed, and, in most cases, they are reared on the farm where they are fed. A few beasts of the Teeswater breed have been tried ; but it is not likely that they will come into general use. There are about 8000 acres of land under cultivation. Produce. — The following table exhibits the value of the annual produce of the parish. Oats, ODD acres at L.6 per acre, Barley, 100 acres at L.6, lOs. Turnips, 340 acres at L.5, Potatoes, 160 acres at L.7 per acre. Hay, 500 acres at L.4 per acre. Pasture, 1000 acres at L.l, 5s. per acre, Sheep'Walks, 8000 acres at 9d. per acre, Thinnings of plantations, Total yearly value of raw produce, L. 12480 Q Husbandry, — The land is generally worked in six divisions : First year, cutting grass, — two following years, pasture, — fourth year, oats, — fifth year, turnips or potatoes, — sixth year, oats or barley. Draining has been carried on to a cx)nsiderable extent. The system that is generally adopted is wedge-draining. Most of the land is enclosed chiefly with stone fences. Two farms have hedges. yOllFAR. T t L.5400 650 1700 1120 2000 1250 aoo 60 640 FORFARSHIRE. There are 130 work horses, and 50 young horses. Bent of Land, — Grazing an ox, L.8^ lOs. ; a cow, L.d; a borset L.d, lOs. Since 1800, the progress of agriculture has been so great, that there is at least a third more cultivated land than there was then. Draining, the application of lime and bone-dust, hare also increased the capabilities of the land that was previously til- led. The produce of the parish may be said to be triple of what it was at the commencement of the century. The rents of many of the farms have also increased in the same degree. The Earl of Airlie and the other heritors have given every encourage- ment to their tenants to prosecute agricultural improvements. The fttrm-steadings throughout the parish, in general, are infe- rior to none in the county. The dwelling-houses of the farmers are plain, but substantial. V. — Pahochial Economy. Village. — The village is situated near the church. There are no public buildings in it. The houses are very ruinous ; but it is likely they will soon be rebuilt. Market'Town. — Kirriemuir is the market-town for part of the produce. Forfar and Dundee are, however, frequently resorted to. These places are respectively seven, twelve, and twenty-one miles distant; but the journey to Dundee is facilitated by the Newtyle Railway. Means of Communication. — There are no turnpike roads in the parish. The roads are maintained by Statute Labour, and are every year receiving a decided improvement. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is not conveniently si- tuated. It is eight miles and a*half from the northern extremity of the parish, and only one and-a-lialf from the southern boundary. It was built in 1602, and may accommodate 450 people. The manse was erected much about the same time. It has since received a large addition. In architectural beauty, it is strikingly deficient. There is only one Dissenter in the parish. The attendance at church is very good. The number of communicants is 433. The stipend consists of L.121, 12s. 6d., and 44 bolls of grain. Education. — There are three schools in the parish ; one paro- chial and two private. The teacher has a salary of L. 29, 18s. 9f d. ; the legal accommodations and his school fees may amount to nearly ii.30 per annum. The average number of scholars under his charge may be 80. The other teachers have no other source of income than the fees of the scholars. KETTINS. 641 Poor and Parochial Funds. — L. 330 from collections at church, dues on mortcloths, &c. L.85» 15s. lO^d. from heritors, constitute the amount of money distributed amongst the poor during the last ten years. The number of regular paupers is 14. Inm — There are three public-ho.uses in the parish ; and very few instances of disorderly conduct have occurred in any of them. Fud. — Peats are the common fuel, but in the course of a few years most of the mosses will be exhausted. December 1842. PARISH OF KETTINS.* PRESBYTERY OF MEIGLE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JOHN ROSS MACDUFF, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent and Situation. — Part of the parish is situated in Perth- shire, but the greater part in the western district of Forfarshire, on the south side of the valley of Strathmore, and on the northern declivity of the Sidlaw hills. The length from east to west is 4 miles » the breadth from south to north is 3, exclusive of Bandir- ran, which is detached. There are six small villages in the parish, of which Kettins is the largest It is delightfully situated on a little stream, which, after passing through Cupar- Angus, falls into the Isla. It is ge- nerally admired by strangers as a picture of rural simplicity and beauty. The neatly kept cottages and gardens — the village green, situated in the centre, watered by the rivulet, and the mag- nificent wood in which the whole is embosomed, give it much the appearance of the beautiful ^amlets in the southern counties of England. The mansion-houses of Newhall, Beech wood, and Hallyburton are in the immediate vicinity. SoU. — The soil is various. Part of the low parish, and the greater part of the higher grounds have rather a light thin soil, and the hills are partly covered with heathy pasture. But nearly * Prom notes famished by Mr James Gibb, Parochial Schoolmaster of Kettins. 043 FORFARSHIRE. all the hills, together with the least productive portion of the low grounds, are planted with wood of various kinds, chiefly larch and pine. The late Lord D. G. Hallyburton, by planting and other improvennents, very much enhanced the value of his estate, and beautified not the parish only, but the scenery of the surrounding district. In many places, a strong red clay or mortar prevails, and in some it is wet and spongy. The greater part of the parish, however, is tolerably fertile, the soil consisting of a friable black mould or silicious loam, generally resting on a subsoil of loose red- dish till or earthy gravel. When this till is close and retentive, the land is wet. The underlying rocks are the old red or grey sandstone, (as is generally the case in Strathmore,) except on the southern part of the parish, towards the ridge of the Sidlaw hills, where the trap rocks shoot up and intermix with the sandstone. There are quarries of this sandstone in several places in the pa- rish. The stone is very durable, and makes excellent building- stone, but in some of the Pitcur quarries it is hard and difficult to cut. No fossils of fishes or other organic remains have been observed in any of these quarries, such as have been found at Clashbinnie and Den of Balruddrie, on the south of the Sidlaws. The coarse conglomerate or base of the red sandstone-formation in Strathmore lies along the southern base of the Grampians, and generally reclines on greywacke, or on the schists and gneiss of these primary mountains, composing some of the smaller hills next the strath. Where this conglomerate is cut by rivers, it generally forms grand and picturesque scenery, from the perpendicularity of its cliffs and chasms, as at Craighall, Airlie Castle, Cortachy, Gannochy Bridge, Fordun, and other places. The finer rock of the formation extends southwards, and is covered by the coal-fields of Fife, with their accompanying yellow and white calciferous sand- stone, shale, &c. : — the trap-rock of the Sidlaw and Ochil hills, and others of less eminence interrupting the strata in various places, and giving them different dips.* Botany. — Besides the more common plants, many of the more rare and less common are to be found in the parish and neighbour- hood. The following may be stated : * Sec Hugh Miller's excellent book on the Old Red Sandstone, and Geology of Fife and the Lothians by Charles Maclaren, Esq., F. R. S. £. KETTINS. 643 TroUius £urop»U8 Trientalis Europoa Gymnadenia conopwa Lintera cordata Hippuris vulgaris Vinca minor Rotrychium lunaria Potainogeton fucens Anemone nemorosa Drosera rotandifolia i gramineus Saxifraga granulaU Pilularia globulifera ■ heteropbyllus Geranium pratense Lobelia Durtmanna Utricularia vulgaris Teucrium Chamsdrys Jsoetes lacustris Parnossia palustris Hypericum bumifusum. Geranium sanguineum II. — Civil Historv. The family of Haliburton were very active in bringing abou^ the Reformation of the Church of Scotland, and had an extensive property in this county. The castle of Pitcur, a mile south of the church, and now in ruins, gave title to the ancient and ho- nourable family of Haliburton, the chief of, that name* The church of Kettins prior to the Reformation belonged to the ministry of the Red Friars at Peebles ; and it appears, from a charter dated 24th May 1585, confirming one dated 15th No* vember 1558, granted at Holyrood the eighteenth year of the reign of James VI., that the kirk lands of Kettins, now called Newhall, were disponed by Friar Gilbert Brown, minister of the church of the Holy Cross of Peebles, to James Small of Kettins and Elizabeth Bair, his wife. The church of Kettins anciently had six chapels dependent on it, viz. one at a village called Peatie, another at South Corston, a third at Pitcur, a fourth at Muiry- faulds, a fifth at Denhead, and a sixth on the south side of the village of Kettins. Most of these were within small enclosures used as burying places. None of them now remain. Antiquities. — Some tumuli were found in this parish about fifty years ago. One at Pitcur contained at least 1000 loads of stonesw In the centre of this cairn, a few flat unwrought stones, and with- out date or characters, contained some human bones. A cairn of a very small size was found a mile farther south. In the centre, an urn was found full of bones. At Camp-muir, there are still visible the outlines of a camp, supposed to be Roman. At BaU dowrie there is an erect Danish monument, six feet high. It contains some figures, but they are almost entirely defaced. — The Castle of Dores stood on the summit of the hill, south from Pit^ cur. Tradition reports it to have been for some time the resi- dence of Macbeth. A cave or weem, about 50 feet in length, was discovered about three years ago on the highest part of a field east of Lintrose* The breadth at the inner end was about seven or eight feet, and the height five feet : it gradually narrowed to three feet at the en* trance, which winded half round. The floor was paved, and the 644 FORFARSHIRE. walls built with large rude stones, the upper courses projeeting inwards. These caves were used by the ancient inhabitants of the country, either as hiding-boles, as Chalmers thinks, or, as others suppose, as winter quarters. Parochial Registers. — There are registers of baptisms from 1650; of marriages, from 1685, wanting from 1726 to 1772; of deaths, from 1685, wanting from 1716 to 1750. Kirk-session re- cords commence in 1618. Land'Owners : — Lord John Frederick Gordon Hallyburton, M. P., Pitcur, L.2489 8 10 Valued rent. Lord Wharncliffe, Airdler and Keillor, 1205 16 8 Mungo Mur^y. E«,. Li„U<«e, { {^ ^or^^hire. 4g ^7 10 J. M. D. Naime, Esq. of Dutisinnane, Bandirran, . 296 10 Alexander Geekie, Esq. Easter Baldowrie, . 183 6 8 Miss Elizabeth Geekie, Wester Baldovrie, 133 6 8 William Shaw, Esq. Newfaall, . . 128 10 L.51S0 Mansion-houses. — These are, Hallyburton House, Lintrose, Bandirran, Newhall, and Baldowrie. The lawns around are well laid out, and finely wooded, particularly at Etallyburton, Lintrose, and Bandirran. IIL — POPVLATION. Amount of population in 1 755, . 1475 1801, 1811, 1821, 1831, 1841, There have been four illegitimate b three years. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Arable land in the parish, gardens included, 6182 Imp. acres; Pasture, chiefly hilly, . . 180 Roads, ditches, borders, &c. . . 297 477 Plantations, . . . 1579 1207 1241 1215 1193 1168— males, 555; lem.6ia rths in the course of the last Total in the parish, 8238 Some of the low lands that are under wood might be cultivated with a proper application of capital ; but these are not of great extent. Rent. — The average rent of land in the parish is about L.1, 5s. per imperial acre, or L.l, 1 Is. 6d. per Scots acre. The real rental of the parish is about L.7800 — lands in the occupancy of the pro- prietors being taken into account. In 1825, the late Lord D. G. Hallyburton valued the lands, and let them to the tenants at a rent ascertained according to Dr Coventry's principle, which seems KETTINS. 645 very equitable. After ascertaining how many bolls a Scots acre will produce, the proportion to be paid as rent is found by divid- ing the produce of an acre by 20. Thus four boll land will pay .2 =z two-tenths, or .2 = one-6fth of the produce, five boll land, .25, or one-quarter of the produce for rent. A table may be thus formed for the rents of lands : Produce Prop, of pro- Prod, x prop. Rent per ac. Money rent at per acre. duce for rent for rent. in bolls oats. ISs. per boll. 4 bolls. ^^ .2 4 X .2 » 0.8 @ 15s. « L.O 12 5 do. ^'W = .25 5 X .25 = 1.25 @ do. » 18 9 6 do. ^= -3 6 X .3 » 1.8 @do. = 17 7 do. ^"=.35 7 X .35 » 2.45@do. » 1 16 9 8 do. ^ == •'^ 8 X .4 s a2 @ do* s 2 8 9 do. ^ = .45 9 X .45 = 4.05 @ do. « 9 9 10 da i% = .5 10 X .5 B 5* @ do. = 3 15 It is thus seen that the rent increases as the square of the pro- duce ; so that land that produces twice the number of bolls per acre that another does, is worth four timesthe rent: and if eight boll land be worth L.2, 8s. per acre, six boll land is worth L.1, 7s., be- ing as 8' : 6'^, or as 64 : 66 : : 48s. : 27s. There is as much required for seed and labour of bad land as of good, although there is less loss from the failure of a crop ; therefore the tenant requires a greater proportion of the produce of bad than of good land, to repay him for seed and labour, and consequently leaves a less proportion for rent ; and when land produces only what will pay for seed and labour, it is worth nothing as cultivated land, and must be either pastured or planted, or allowed to lie waste. Agricultural Improvements* — Upwards of 50 acres of good land have been trenched, and brought under cultivation on the hills of Baldowrie by the proprietor. The wet lands on the different estates have been drained. The different kinds of live-stock have lately been much improv- ed. The kind of cattle consists mostly of the Angus or polled breed, Teeswater or short-horned, with a few of the Ayrshire breed and crosses. The sheep grazed on the cultivated lands are mostly the Leicesters, or the South Downs, with crosses ; but the black-faced Highland breed are brought in to assist in eating off the turnips in winter. Hugh Watson, Esq. an extensive farmer in this district, has been long famed as a breeder, particularly of the Angus breed. There are local Associations in the district for encouraging these improvements, by giving premiums for the best stock. An Association was formed for improving agriculture, so far back as 1757, consisting of most of the landed proprietors in the district, and some at a distance. G46 F0KFAR8HIRK. V. — Parochial Economv. Ecclesiastical State. — Number of families in the parish belonging to the Establisbed Churchy 214 ; number of DisseD ting or Seced- ing families 40 ; number of Episcopalian families^ 3. Amount of stipend, 16 chatder^, half meal and half barley. Glebe, 4 Scots acres in extent ; value, about L« 12. The manse was biiilt in 1792, and the church in 176a Ministers o/Kettins, — James Auchinleik, ordained in 1618 ; Da- vid Paton, ordained in 1650; James Paton, his sod, A. S.in I680L He continued an Episcopalian till 1716, when the following entrj occurs in the kirk-session records : ^^ March 1 1, No sermon, the minister being taken a prisoner, by order of George Duncan, bis cousin, one of the lieutenants of the shire, and advised by him not to preach." James Gray, ordained 1718 j John Kerr, 1744. translated to Forfar 1745; Robert Trail, 1746, translated to Banff, 1753; John Hallybnrton, 1754; David Symers, 1801 f John Ross Macduff, 1842. Eupban Paton, daughter of Rev. Da- vid Paton, was married 1691 to John Hallyburton of Fodder- ance, whose grand-daughter, Magdalene, was married to George Campbell, D. D., minister of Cupar in Fife, and mother of Lord Campbell, her Majesty's late Attorney- General; and their grand- son. Rev. John Hallyburton, was grandfather to Rev. David Sy- mers, who succeeded him as minister of Keltins. Education. — Besides the parish school, there is one occasionally at Ford. No additional school needed. A few families at a dis- tance from the parish school go to those in the neighbouring pa- rishes. Yearly amount of parochial schoolmaster*s salary, L. 30, and L.2, 2s. 9^d. for a garden, no garden being given by the he- ritors. Probable yearly amount of fees actually paid to parochial schoolmaster, from L. 20 to L.25, including about L. 10 paid from bursaries. Probable amount of the other emoluments of parochial schoolmaster, as session-clerk and kirk-treasurer, about \j. 10. Poor, — Average number of persons receiving parochial aid, 26 sane paupers, and 3 lunatics. Average sum allotted to each sane pauper per week about Is. 6d., and 5s. for each lunatic. Average annual amount of contributions for relief of the poor, about L.155, whereof from church collections, L.35. A deficiency of funds in the last four years has been made up by a voluntary con- tribution of the heritors at different times, of about L. 25 per an- num. Rent from lands, L.91, exclusive of burdens; mortcloth and penalties, about L.3. About twenty*eight acres of land at Coupar- Angus belong to RETTINS. 647 I I the poor of the parish of Kettins, — Causeyend purchased in 1730, and Butressbank in 1788, by the minister and kirk-session, as trustees for the poor. About three-quarters of an acre at Kettins were disponed by the Honourable James Hallyburton of Pitcur, to the schoolmaster and heritors, in lieu of 500 merks, given by George Hallyburton of Banchory, a branch of the Pitcur family, for which a feu of 4s. 8d. is paid, and four scholars educated. Alexander Geekie, a surgeon in London, instituted a bursary in 1713, of L.5 per annum, for educating boys at the school of Kettins; and by his latter will, dated 17th May 1724, and proved at London Idth July 1727, he bequeathed to his brother, William, at Easter Keillor, L.100, the interest of which was to be paid for this end, or to any other charitable use which he shall judge most proper. James Taylor bequeathed to the parish of Kettins, by his will, dated 16th August 1783, and provedat London 28th No- vember, same year, L.100 bank of England stock, for the educa- tion of poor children in the parish of Kettins, under the care and charge of George Dempster, Esq. M. P. for Dundee, &c., which Mr Dempster vested in trust of himself, and the proprie* tor of Dunnichen, minister of Kettins, and proprietor of Newhall for the time being. John Geekie, farmer at Nether Ballunie, by a trust disposition, dated 1814, and registered in the sheriff-court books of Perth, 9lh May 1814, granted L. 100, to be laid out on heritable secu- rity, in favour of the minister and elders of the parish of Ket- tins for the time being, the interest to be applied yearly for educating poor children within the parish of Kettins. The Rev. James Paton, in name of his daughter, Ann Paton, mortified L.1000 Scots, in trust to the laird of Pitcur, and minister of Kettins for the time being, the interest to be applied for edu- cating girls, or young women at the schools of Dundee. The amount is now L.400 Sterling. January 1843. PARISH OF AUCHTERHOUSE. PRE8BTTBRY OF DUNDEE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MBARN8. THE REV. GEORGE WINEHOUSE, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The oame of this parish is supposed to be deriYed either from the Gaelic word Achter^ ^^ the high ground on which the church, the House of God, stands," or from Achadii Torr^ pronounced Ach-tor, ^^ the house with the tower in the Beld," which is descriptive of a ruin near the manor-house of Auchter* house. Boundaries. — The parish is bounded on the east by that of Tealing; on the south-east, by Mains and Strathmartine ; on the south, by Liff ; on the west and south-west, by Lundie and Foulis ; on the north-west, by Newtyle ; and on the north and north-east, by Glammis. Figure and Elevation, — The figure of the parish is that of a triangle, the base of which forms its south boundary, and rests on the narrow valley through which Dighty water runs; and the two sides, indented in several places, rise to a bend in a hill-stream, on the north side of the south ridge of the Hill of Sidia, by which it is separated from Strathmore. Its exposure is to the south, and its surface is varied by undulating acclivities, which point east and west, and increase in elevation and steepness from south to north. The acclivities to the south of the church, and that on which the church stands, are accessible, and under cultivation ; but that lo the north of the church, which forms the Hill of Sidla, is precipitous, and available only for pasturage and forest planting. The elevation of the summit of the south acclivity is 500 feet ; that on which the church stands is 800 feet ; and that of the White Sheets of Sidla, which is the highest ground in the parish, is 1400 feet above the level of high water mark at Dundee. Extent and Geology. — The superficial extent of this parish is about 8^ square miles, or 5448 imperial acres. Of that extent. AUCHTERHOUSE. 649 8567 acres are under cultivatioD, 1406 under wood, and 475 are hill pasture. The cultivated land is in general a black mouldy mixed in some places with sand, over a stratum of till or clay, or a bed of mar1| and incumbent on rock. Under judicious management, it pro- duces good crops of turnips and potatoes, and oats and barley ; but wheat has been found, for several years, not to afford an ade- quate remuneration, and has, on that account, not been exten- sively sown^ The uncultivated ground is, with the exception of a few small patches, a thin surface of moorland over a bed of retentive till, resting on rock ; but, to the elevation of about 900 feet, some kinds of forest trees grow on it very freely, and to a considerable size. Scotch fir and spruce thrive well on this soil ; but larch, from some cause not yet well ascertained, has, for several years, been found subject to disease and decay, within a few years after being planted on it. ^ Sandstone rock lies at or near the surface of almost the whole extent of this parish, and is raised and prepared for several useful purposes at a moderate expense. The Hill of Sidla is a mass of the oldest series of sandstone, intersected in some places with trap dikes, and in others overlaid with trap. In some places, the sand«> stone is in thick beds, and of gross texture, with a dip to the west of about one foot in six, and affords durable materials for building ; in other places, it is in thin beds, and of fine texture, and is formed into pavement and coarse slates. In these thin beds are found wedges of calm, and impressions of organic remains of the vegetable kingdom. Rivulets. — The rivulets in this parish have their sources in the lochs of Lundie, on the west, and in the springs near the base of Sidla, on the north. One of these rivulets runs five miles from west to east, along the whole line of the south border of the pa- rish, and is called, for part of its course, the Burn of Dronly ; but, at the village of Dronly, where it receives the Bum of Auch- terhouse from the north-west, it assumes the name of Dighty Water for the rest of its course eastward through the parishes of Mains and Strath roartine, and Monifieth, till it (alls into the Tay, near the influx of that river into the German Ocean. The Bum of Dronly, before its junction with that of Auchterhouse, is the moving power of one yarn washing-mill ; and the Burn of Aucb~ terhouse, before its junction with that of Dronly, is the moving 650 FORFARSHIRE. power of two corn-mills and one yarn washing*mill. The ouine* rous springs, which rise in all parts of the parish, afford, in ordi- nary seasons, an adequate provision of excellent water' for all do- mestic and agricultural pnrposes. Climate. — The climate of this parish is particularly healthyr On the low grounds, it has of late years been greatly improved, by extensive and judicious draining, whieb has puriGed the air of miasma and milldews ; and, on the high grounds, though sharp, it is generally dry and cool, and bracing. The temperature i^ moderate and equable, the thermometer in the house seldom rising in sumn^r above 80% or falling in winter below 45^ The baro- meter, at an elevation of 800 feet, generally ranges from 28^ to 30*. II. — CrviL History. Parochial Reffisiers, — The parish registers are, 1*^ a very old one, recording texts and acts of church discipUne, commencing with May 1645, and closing with May 1692, much mutilated, and almost illegible ; 2dy a cash-book, in good preservation, ex- tending from December 1722 to December 1740; Sc/, a cash- book and records from December 1740 to August 1804; 4/A, baptismal registers from 1707 to the present time; 5M, a cash- book, with some minutes of session from 1604 to the present time ; 6ihj a sessional record from 1818 to the present time. Manor-Houses and Antiquities, — The House of Auchterhouse is the only manor-house in this parish. It is an old building, the property of the Earl of Airlie, and inhabited by Lady Helen Wedderburn and family ; and, with its orchards almost close to it, is the best specimen now in this part of the country, of an old ba- ronial residence. Near it is a ruin, from which, it is the opinion of some people, that the parish takes its name. It is a square tower, of great thickness of wall, part of a strong building, whicli, when entire, had occupied a much larger space than the present bouse. It is called Wallace Tower, and that name had perhaps been given it, on purpose to perpetuate the remembrance of a visit paid by the great Scottish patriot to his contemporary and particular friend, Sir John Ramsay, the proprietor at that time of the barony of Auchterhouse. That Sir William Wallace did visit Sir John Ramsay at Auchterhouse, there can be no doubt ; for it is parti- cularly recorded, that, on landing at Montrose with his French auxiliaries, for the recovery of his native country from the English, ATJCHTERHOUSE. 651 tjood Sir John Ramsay, and the Ruthven trua, Barclay and Bisset, with men not a few, Do Wallace meet, — all canty, keen, and erouse. And with three hundred march to Ochterhouse. At no great distance from the House of Auchterbouse, and in other parts of the parish, some of those subterraneous abodes, called weemSf have been found, one of which contained the stones of a hand-mill and some bones, and a brass ring, and another the •bones of some animal, and a parcel of the ashes of burned wood ; and near the bottom of the south declivity of the Hill of Sidla, stands a Druidical altar in a very entire state. On a farm in the south-east district of the parish, several traces of a battle have been recently discovered. In one place, the spade and mattock were opposed by a strong plate of vitrified stones. The stoaes were of the same kind with those on the surface of the contiguous corn-field. The plate was of a circular figure, of four yards dia- meter, and on it lay a bed two inches thick, of nearly decomposed tiuman bones, covered by a surface of the ashes of burned wood; and, in other places, stone- coffins, containing human bones, have been disinterred in the prosecution of agricultural improvements. May we suppose that these human bones and ashes of human bones are part of the sad remains of the last sanguinary struggle betwixt the Scottish and Pictish nations for the ascendency in Scotland, which commenced at Restenet, and closed at Pitalpie ? Proprietors and Rent — No landed proprietor resides in this pa- rish. The proprietors are, the Earl of Airlie ; the Earl of Cam- perdown ; the heirs of the late Mrs Knight ; Mr Patrick Millar ; and Mr George Millar. And their valued rents are. The Earl of Airlie's, . . L. 1168 6 8 The Earl of Cainperdown'8, 491 1«3 4 The heirs of the late Mrs Knight, . 166 13 4 Mr Patrick Millar, . . 200 Mr George Millar, . 10 Their real rents are, The Earl of Airlie's, The Earl of Caniperdown*8, The heirs of the late Mrs Knight, Mr Patrick Millar's, Mr George Millar's, L.20d6 id 4 L.d000 1455 15 365 360 10 a L.5190 15 3 The Earl of Airlie is proprietor of the barony of Auchter- house ; The Earl of Camperdown, of Easter and Wester Adam- stown, and Dronly, and Templeton ; the heirs of the late Mrs 653 VO&FARSHIRE. Knight of ScotstowD ; Mr Patrick Millar of Balbeuchly ; and Mr George Millar of Templelands. The extent of the hims va- ries from about 500 to 100 acres ; and the rent from L. 1, lia. to L.2 per acre for cultivated land ; and all the tenantry are reputed to bejn easy circumstances, and some of them to be wealthy. III. — Population. The population of this parish was, in 1881, 715, and io ISil* 769, showing an increase of 54 in ten years. Of that population, 200 live in three hamlets, 100 in the Kirktown,60 in Dronly, and 40 in Bonitown ; and in the parish there are 2 corn-millers, 3 yanii* millers, 2 shoemakers, 1 tailor, 2 blacksmiths, 2 carpenters and cart and plough-wrights, 6 quarriers, 30 male and female weavers, 8 i^eepers of public-houses, one of whom is a toll-keeper ; the reft of the population belong to the agricultural class, or are dikers, or ditchers, or day-labourers. IV. — Industry. Value of Produce. — The extent of the cultivated land in this pariah has already been stated to be 3567 imperial acres. The follow* ing is given as an approximation to the value of its produce, when the land is cropped, as it now generally is, according to a rotation of 6ve years : Oats, 1108 acres, at L.5 per acre. . Barley, 290 acres, at L.5, 10 per acre, Wheat, 28 acres, at L.8, 10s., per acre, Turnips, 460 acres, at L.5 per acre, Potatoe&, 255 acres, at L.7, lOs. per acre. Grass, 713 acres, cut or pastured, for Ist year, L.S, Grass, 713 acres, pastured for 2d year, at L.l, Produce of dairy, L. 15,434 10 Improvements. — All the farms are inclosed and subdivided by stone fences ; and the farmers' houses and farm steadings, with very few exceptions, are nearly new, and substantial, and commo- dious. And, in proof of the liberality of the landlords, and of the in- dustry and enterprise of the tenantry, it may be stated, that of the extent of land at present under cultivation, nearly 500 acres have been reclaimed, within these forty years, from moor, and moss, and bog, and rendered sound productive soil. And these improve- ments have been accomplished, either by the landlords themselves, or by the tenants, encouraged by aid given them, directly or indi- rectly, by the landlords, though opposed by deeds of entail in fa- vour of heirs-male, restricting the leases on the Earl of Airlie's estate to fourteen, and on the Earl of Camperdown's to nineteen L-5540 1595 235 2300 1912 10 1, 2139 713 1000 AUCHTERHOUSE. 653 years duration. And in prosecuting these improvements on damp thin soils, incumbent on a tilly bottom, the till-plough is now used, and Smith of Deanston's system of furrow-draining is prao- tised, with the best effect The sickle and scythe are generally employed for cutting down the grain crops, but on one hrm, Bell's reaping-machine has been used for several years. When propel- led by two horses, it cuts and lays in lines neatly and regularly at the rate of an acre per hour, — but it is not adapted to uneven surfaces, nor to crops much laid down. Planting. — The Earl of Airlie and the Earl of Camperdown have planted on their estates in this parish to a great extent* The Earl of Airlie has planted on Sidla hill, nearly 800 acres ; and the Earl of Camperdown, on the moors of Dronly and Adamstown, nearly 800 ; the plants were of larch, spruce, Scotch fir, rowan, elm, ash, plane, beech, on the hills and moors ; but of these only the spruce and Scotch fir promise to do well ; in hedge-rows and for ornamental plantations, plane, ash, elm, beech, chestnut, and lime have been planted and are growing rapidly. Mining. — For several years previous to 1839, and after the railway to Dundee was opened, mining in three different places on the barony of Auchterhouse was actively prosecuted, and yield- ed above L.100 of rent annually to the proprietor, and gave con- stant employment to fifty masons and labourers. But for the last three years, all operations in these three quarries have been suspend- ed, in consequence of the demand for building materials being nearly extinguished by the pressure of the times. At present only one quarry, on the estate of Scotstown, gives a little employment to five or six men, at a rent of from L.dO to L.d5. But the ex- pense of working can hardly be provided for by the value of its pro- duce. Under circumstances, however, that might give encourage- ment to building, the prosecution of mining, with the facilities for conveyance to Dundee, which the railway affords, would prove a source of considerable revenue to the proprietors, and give em- ployment to many industrious labourers. V. — Parochial Economy. Market-Towny Sfc. — Dundee is the nearest market-town to this parish. Easy access is obtained to it, either by the Dundee and Newtyle turnpike road, or by the Dundee and Newtyle Railway, The turnpike road takes a direction for about four miles from the south to the north extremities of the parish ; it crosses two streams by good bridges, and is always kept in the be^t state of repair. 654 FOUFAUSHIRB, The railway, after crossing Dighty Water on the south-east, pur- sues its course for four miles to the north-west extremity of the parish. It has a depot) for the accommodation of the neighbour- hood, established near the Milltown of Auchterhouse, and aflTords conveyance for 2500 tons of goods and 3000 passengers annually to and from Dundee. Ecclesiastical State, — The church of this parish was erected in 1775; the architecture is partly new and partly old. On the west end of it, is a bell-house in the form of a steeple, and on the east end is a cemetery of very old but very entire workmanship, in the vault of which lie the remains of some members of the family of Buchan, of the family of Strathmore, and of the family of Airlie, the proprietors in succession of the barony of Auchterhouse. If repaired, and more regularly seated, and better lighted, the church would be a very comfortable place of worship, adequate to the ac- commodation of the parish. The number of communicants varies from 370 to 400> and there are no seats let by the landed proprie* tors, and only a few by the kirk-session for very small sums in aid of the poor's fund. The stipend of this parish, which was augmented in 1831, is 111 bolls, 3 tirlots, 1 lippie of meal; 104 bolls, 3 Briots, 1 peck, 2 lippies barley, 3 bolls wheat ; and L.45, Os. 4d. of money. The manse, which was repaired in 1827 and 1828, is a commodious and comfortable house ; and the glebe, which, besides a small garden and the stance of houses, is about seven acres in extent, has been valued at L.15. The Earl of Airlie is patron of the church, and titular of the teinds of the parish. There is one Roman Catholic family, and one Roman Ca- tholic individual, one Episcopalian family, and two individuals of the Independent Congregational persuasion in the parish ; but all the rest of the people belong to the Established Church, and are in general attentive to religious observances, and devout in their deportment in the house of prayer. They fear God and honour their sovereign, and meddle not with those that are given to change. The estate of Balbeuchly is held by the proprietor cum decimis znclusisatrunconunquamseparatisyMidhaisno righttochurch accom- modation in this parish. It is said to have been part of the church lands belonging to the Bishop of Dunkeld, and to have been alien- ated from him and attached about the middle of the eleventh cen- tury by a Pope's bull to the parish of Caputh, at ten or twelve miles distance. Pastoral services, however, have been, and are per- AUCHTERHOUSE, 655 formed for the people resident on it by the ministers of Auchter- house. Education. — The parochial school-house was erected in 1769, and has been frequently repaired since that time, and is a well- lighted and well-furnished teaching-room. The schoolmaster's sa- lary is L.d4, 4s. 4^d. subject during the present teacher's time to a deduction for payment of a precentor ; his dwelling-house is com- modious, and his garden not less than the legal extent His fees amount to about L.20 per annum. The schoolmaster is session- clerk, and receives L.2 of salary and L.2, 6s. dd. of perquisites for the duties of that office. Besides the parochial school, there is another in the parish. The school-house of this school is paid for by subscription, and the schoolmaster receives the school-fees, amounting to L.20, in remuneration of his services. Poor. — The capital of the poor's fund amounts to L.440, and is formed entirely of savings of collections, and of interest of capi- tal, and of small sums obtained for the use of the mortcloth, and by the letting of a few seats in the aisle of the church. Bank in- terest is obtained for L.dOO, and 4 per cent, for L.140. The ave- rage of weekly collections is 4s. 6d. The highest sum given to a pauper is 16s., the lowest 5s. per month ; and there are, at pre- sent, eight paupers on the roll, besides a lunatic patient for \vhom 6d. per day is paid. For a provision for these, small as that pro- vision is, large draughts, in addition to the weekly collections and contingencies, must be frequently made on the capital of the fund, by which, in the course of a few years, it must be exhausted, and then there will be no alternative for the support of the poor but the imposition of an assessment, which never fails of extinguishing be- nevolence on the part of the giver, and gratitude on the part of the receiver. April 164a FORFAR. U U PARISH OF MENMUIR.* . PRESBYTERY OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OP ANGUS AND MBARM& THE REV. WILLIAM CRON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name is said to be a compouDd of two Gaelic words signifying the ffreat moss* Extent^ 4*0* — The parish is about 5 English miles in length, and averages about 2 in breadth. It is bounded on the north, by Strick- athrowand Lethnot; on the south, by Brechin, and CarraldstoDei on (he west, by Fearn ; and on the east, by Brechin and Stricka* throw, II. — Civil History. Parochial Registers. — The oldest parochial register of Men- muir commences on the 15th September 1622. The weekly transactions of the kirk-session are regularly detailed in it. From this register it appears that, for some years before and afbr its commencement, much disorder and poverty prevailed in the parish ; but Presbyterian principles began to gain the as* cendency, a salutary discipline was introduced, and Christian phi-> lanthropy kept pace with reformation in morals. On the 6th May 163d| the following fact is recorded : ^^ This day the Confessioune of Faith and covenant with our God openlie read, subscryvet, and sworne vnto, be the haill congregatioune of this paroche of Men- muir." Shortly previous to this date, the weekly collection for the poor rose rapidly from dd. to 3s. and upwards. But the civil wars which ensued, blasted the growing prosperity, increased the number of indigent, and dried up their sources of relief. In the register there are frequent allusions to incidents connected with these wars and with the disturbed state of the church. It appears also, that, during a part of the time of these troubles, the plague raged so alarmingly in this neighbourhood, that there was no as* * From NoUs furnished by Mr David Laing, parochial schoolmaster of Menrouir. MENMUIB. 657 setnbling forpublic worship in the parish church, from the begin- ning of April to the end of September 1647. These calamities, and the troubled state of the country after^ wards, account for the fact that, at the Restoration, the collec- tions for the poor averaged only Is. a week ; at the Revolution they had risen to about 2s ; but by the time of the Union, they had fallen to lOd. a week. Then came the rebellions of 1715 and 1745, followed by their disastrous effects, so that it was not till after the accession of George III. that the collections averaged more than Is. Sd. per week. At the close of the American war, the average was ds. 2d., and they continued gradually to improve until 1812, when they reached about lis. per week. Many instances occur of baptisms being recorded in the old re- gbter of the transactions of the kirk-session ; but it was not until 171 1, that baptisms were regularly recorded. Part of the baptis- mal register (from 1733 to 1758) is wanting: it may have either been lost or destroyed. With this exception, the record is com- plete, and the baptisms seem to have been duly registered until about 1827. Since that time, the number of baptisms registered has continued to decrease, so that now it is rarely that either the birth or baptism of a child is recorded. Land'owners. — These, with their valuations, are as follows : Jamet Carnegy Arbuthnott, Esq. of Balnamoon, L.1625 2 I Lieutenant-General the Honourable Sir Alexander Duff, 830 Alexander Erskine, Esq. of Balhall, . . 600 Right Honourable the Earl of Kintore, . . 100 Peter Bell, Esq. of Balconnel, . . . 66 IS 4 Representatives of the late Mr Guthrie of Burnside, . 50 Total of old valuation Scots money, L.9280 15 5 Mansion- House. — The only one in the parish is Balnampon House, built by the present proprietor. Antiquities. — On the top of a hill called Caterthun^ there are the remains of a remarkable fortress, particularly noticed in the old Account. It is supposed to have belonged to the Danes or Picts. There is also a cluster of burrows about a mile to the north of tl^e church, believed, by the common people, to be the graves of Danes or Picts killed in battle. Lately, when the old dike of the church-yard was pulled down, there were found in it two sculptured stones of rude workmanship ; —on the one are carved two equestrian Bgures armed with spears and round shields ; behind, is the 6gure of a man on foot, holding 658 FOUFARSHIRB. what resembles a pole with a circle or cincture on the top of it. There are two figures on another part of this stone ; the one seems that of a quadruped, and the other the 6gure of a fowl. The other stone contains one equestrian figure. IIL — Population. Amount of population in 1801, 949 1811, 915 1821, 889 I8dl, 871 1841, 731 Number of Ulegitimate births during last three years, 6. IV. — Industry. Rent — The average rent of land in the parish may be stated at L.1, 5s« per acre. Valued rent, L.2dd, Ss. lid. Sterling. Real rent about L.5500. The more recent improvements in the agriculture of the parish have been reaping with the scythe and furrow-draining. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — There are 108 male heads of families io communion with the church. There are six Dissenting families, and one Episcopalian. Amount of stipend, about L.1 56. Glebe, about six acres in extent. Value, L.9. The manse consists of two large houses joined; one built in 1798, the other in 1826. A large excellent parish church was built last summer. Edtication, — Besides the parish school, there is a side school close to it. Parochial schoolmaster's salary, L.d4, 4sr; fees, Li.16. There is about one-tenth of the population (73*2) always un- der instruction. Poor, — The number of enrolled poor during the reign of Charles II. averaged sixteen, besides eight or ten different families of chil« dren. Number of poor at present, 21. Average yearly amount for their relief, L.d6; whereof from church collections, L.25, March 1843. PARISH OF BARRIE. PREJSBTTBRY OF ARBROATU, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MBARNS. THE REV. JAMES LUMSDEN, MINISTER. I, — Topography and Natural History. Extent and Bovndaries, — This parish is computed to extend about 3 miles from east to west, and 4 from north to south. It is bounded on the north, by Monikie ; on the south, by Monikie and Monifieth ; on the west, by Panbride ; on the east, by the German Occean and the Frith of Tay, " A high verdant bank, which seems once to have formed a steep shore of the ocean, runs through the whole, from east to west, giving to the northern division the appearance of a great regular terrac^, elevated about fifty feet above the southern part. The soil is various. The lower division is composed of a thirsty down, which barely suffices for the grazing of a few flocks of sheep and of young cattle, interspersed with some acres of arable land, which, in showery seasons, yield a moderate crop of grain. The upper division is partly light loam, partly generous gravel, and a few fields approach to a deep black soil. The mould, though in no respect rich, favoured by enclosure in many parts, and aided in general by an enlightened husbandry, produces crops of wheat, barley, oats, peas, turnip, flax, clover, potatoes, little inferior in quantity and quality to the growth of the same extent of land in di&> tricts distinguished by a valuable soil." — (Old Statistical Account.) II. — Civil Historv. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers consist of the min.utes of the kirk-session, and the regi^er of births and mar- riages. The kirk-session record commences at 22d February 1704 ; but, from 1779 to 1824, no minutes appear to have been kept. Since 1824, they have been regularly and accurately kept. The register of births and marriages commences in 1704, and, with the exception of nine years, viz. from 1807 to 1816, it has been regularly kept. Land'Otcners, — The principal land»-owners, with their respective 660 FORFARSHIRE. valuations, are as follows: — I^rd Panmure, L. IS^, 5s. Sd. ; D. Hunter, Esq. of Blackness, L.515, 2s. 2d.; James Miln, Esq. of Woodhill, L.369, 16s. 7d. ; Major W. B. Gardyne of Middleton, L.41d, 1 4s. 4d. ; William Henderson, Esq. of Grange, L.360; Misses Kinloch and Guthrie of Carnoustie, L. 170; D. Petrie, Esq. of Greenlawhill, L.186, 13s. 4d. ; Mrs Moram of Gedball, L. 43, 6s. 8d. ; Miss Johnstone of Watery Butts, L. 12, 10s. Antiquities. — There is no mansion-house in the parish of any im- portance. The parish is destitute also of antiquities. It seems, how- ever, to have been the scene of a Danish battle. The following state- ment in the old Statistical Account describes appearances now do longer existing. ** On the eastern boundary of the parish many tumuli appear. The traces of a camp in their immediate neighbourhood, Carnoustie, t. e, *• The Cairn of Heroes,' the name of an adjoin- ing estate, the vicinity of a brook, which is said to have run three days with blood, proclaim these tumuli the graves of those north- ern marauders who fell in the desperate engagement which, ac- cording to Buchanan (B. vi. Chap. 1.,) took place near Pbnbride, between the Danish troops commanded by Camus, and the Scotch army under Malcolm II." III. — Population. There are no towns in the parish. In the village of Carnoustie there are about 1200 inhabitants; and in the village of Barrier about 150. The entire population, according to last census, is 2124. IV. — Industry. It is impossible to state precisely the number of acres that are cultivated or occasionally in tillage. They amount probably to 2250. There are nearly as many which have never been culti- vated, on account of the light and sandy nature of the soil. Of these, however, there is a considerable proportion thai is useful for pasture. It is difficult to say whether there is any portion of this land that could profitably be taken into cultivation. There is no part of the parish in a state of undivided common. A very small proportion — between 30 and 40 acres — is under wood. In the links, which occupy one half of the parish, extending over its whole breadth, about 250 acres are cultivated, at an average rent of probably 15s. per acre. The better land, most of which is considerably elevated above the links, may average L. 2 per acre. The real rental of the parish it is impossible to approximate, many of the estates being in the natural possession of the proprietors. The manufacture of brown and white linen is carried on to a BARUIR. 661 great extent. The great bulk of the populationi male and female, are more or less engaged in it, being employed chiedy by the ma- nufacturers of Dundee and Arbroath. The only fishing carried on is that of salmon. There are five stations belonging to three di£ferent proprietors. V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — In the Barrie district of the parish, there are 172 families belonging to the Established Church, and 23 be- longing to Dissenting or Seceding communions. In the quoad sacra parish of Carnoustie, there are 236 families belonging tothe Established Church ; 83 to Dissenting and Seceding communions ; three to the Episcopal Church ; and one to the Papists. The stipend is estimated at L. 143, 12s. 4d. There are L. 4, 3s. 8d. of unexhausted teinds ; the glebe contains about five acres worth about L. 1 per acre. No one can tell when the manse was built. It was repaired after a litigation with the heritors in 1828. In its present condition, it is damp, open, and uncomfortable. Education. — Besides the parish school of Barrie, there is a sessional school recently erected in Carnoustie, to which the Privy- Council Committee on Education granted L. 100. It is at present vested in the hands of the kirk- session ; but it is expressly provided, that, in the event of the apprehended disruption of the present Established Church, the school shall belong to the non« intrusion party. Besides this school there is another in Carnoustie, of long standing, constituted so that any individual, without respect to character, residence, or sex, who pays 4s., has a right to vote in all matters connected with its management. The working of such a constitution naturally led to results out of which sprung the above- mentioned school, expressly designed for the education of the young on Scriptural principles. There are at present two additional ad« venture schools in Carnoustie, one of them be'mg for girls. The yearly amount of the parochial schoolmaster's salary is L. 32. The number of scholars varies at different seasons of the year. During winter it often amounts to 100. Savings Bank. — There is a Savings Bank in Carnoustie, in- tended for this parish and the parish of Panbride. The following abstract shows its present state : The amount of deposits at pre- sent is L.1286, 2s. 5d. which belongs to 74 males,' 7a females, and 6 societies. Poor and Parochial Funds. — For six years preceding the pre- sent, the average number of persons receiving parochial aid has been 25. The average sum allotted to each of these persons ^er 662 FORPARSHIUE. month is 5s. The church collections have been gradually dimi- nishing for many years- The refusal of the heritors to enlai^e the church some seven or eight years ago, induced many of the people to withhold their weekly contributions, and eventually led in 1837-8 to ' the erection of the qvoad sacra church of Carnoustie by voluntary subscription. The opening of this church, situated as it is in the most populous part of the parish, necessarily caused a still farther diminution, so that, in 1839, the^ whole amount of church«door collections was only L.28, lis. d^d. ; in 1840, L.28, 78. 10^; and in 1841, L.26, ds. 9^d. From circumstances unnecessary to be here noticed, the amount of the church-door collections now rarely reaches the sum of 3b. There has been hitherto no legal assessment The heritors vo- luntarily contributed in 1839, L.75, 6s.; in 1840, L.47, 8s. t and in 1841, L. 39, 14s. Oftener than once, a contribution has been received from the congregation of the quoad sacra church of Carnoustie, and in addition to what they have contributed to the poor's fund, they have occasionally made special collections, and distributed them amongst the poor in their district March 1843. PARISH OF STRICKATHROW. PRESBYTERY OF BKECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. WILLIAM GERARD, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish originally consisted of two distinct parishes, Strickathrow and Dunlappie, which were united in 1612. Ac* cording to a recent writer,* Strickathrow or Stracathro, (^Strath" cath-ra^) signifies either " the Battle in the Strath," or " the Valley of the Forts ;" and is supposed to have been so called from a battle which was fought in its neighbourhood, not far from the celebrated hills Cater-thun, in 1130, between King David and Angus Earl of Moray, grandson of Lulach, the son of Gruochy grand-daughter of Kenneth IV. The name, which is evidently a Celtic compound, signifies, according to others, the ^* strath or valley where the King fought." • Knoi's Topography of the Basin of the Tay, p. 95. STRICKATHIIOW. 663 Dunlappie (from Dun^ a hill ; aiid Lappie, water,) is very ap- propriately named, — the upper part of the district being occupied by the Hill of Lundie and the Dye, or West water, flowing along its base on two sides and part of a third ; while the lower grounds are intersected by numerous streamlets. Extent and Boundaries. — The extreme length of the united pa* rish from south-east to north-west, is about 6| miles ; the breadth is very unequal, but averages about 1^ mile ; presenting a super- ficies of 5440 imperial acres, or 8^ square miles. It is bounded by the parishes of Dun, Brechin, Menmuir, Lethnot, Edzell, Fet- tercairn, Marykirk, and Liogie-Pert A small portion of the parish and county, (comprising 36 acres of arable land, and 36 acres of beach and gravel,) is severed from the rest, apparently from a change in the channel of the river North Esk, the old bed of which is still distinctly visible. This part of the parish is deserv- ing of notice, as it is supposed to be the site of the Roman station ef Tina ;* but the supposition has not been confirmed by the dis- covery of any vestiges of a camp or other antiquities* There are^ indeed, about a mile to the north-west, the remains of an extent sive encampment, but evidently not of Roman construction. It is of an oblong form. The ramparts are composed of large stones piled upon one another ; and at the end, bordering on the bank of the Esk, are the foundations of what appears to have been a round tower. It would seem that the Dye or West-water, has for a long time past been gradually encroaching upon this parish and enlarging that of Edzel. Within the memory of man, the en- croachment has been above 70 feet, involving the destruction of a village called Portsoy ; and that, at one time, it had joined the Esk about a mile above its present embouchure, is evident, both from the appearance of the ground, and from ^he name of the farm-house, near which the original channel is still very observa^ ble ; ^^ Inverieskandy," t. e. the junction of the Esk and Dye« Topographical Appearances. — The parish is naturally divided into three parts. The south-east is occupied by the hill of Stra- cathrow, a table-land, elevated about 400 feet above the level of Strathmore, and stretching into the neighbouring parishes of Lo* gie, Dun, and Brechin. A great part of it is under wood, which, though indifferently managed, has attained a considerable size ; but the arable land is mostly poor, and lies on a cold clay subsoiU From the brow of the hill, the view is very fine, embracing the * Knox's Topography of the Basin of the Tay, p. 95. 664 FORFARSHIRE. Strath through thirty miles in length, and from four to ten in breadth ; the back ground being formed by the Cater-thons and other ranges of the Grampians ; whilst directly in front of the spectator, is the entrance to Glenesk, shut in by Mount Battock, which rises upwards of 2000 feet above the loTel of the sea* This division is for the most part in a high state of cultivation ; and is finely diversified with wood and water. A nearer inspection, how* ever, produces rather a feeling of disappointment; for though a considerable portion of the soil is good, it is interspersed with much thin poor land ; and the woods, which, at a distance, add so modi to the beauty of the landscape, are found to consist, for the most part, of diminutive stunted trees, completely overgrown with lichen^ and consequently in a very unthriving condition. The third di- vision, comprehending Lundie Hill and its environs, is almost in a state of nature, and has very much of a wild Highland aspect. It is almost destitute of wood ; although tradition says, it formerly supplied oak rafters for the old cathedral of Brechin ; and there are 800 acres on the hill well adapted for planting. The bed of the Cruik is the most depressed part of the parish. From thence the ground has a gradual ascent, with few undulations, until it blends with Stracathro hill on the south-east, and Lundie hill on the north-west. Along the banks of the North- Esk and Cruik the natural scenery is very fine ; and in some places, where the effect is heightened by judicious planting, it may be pronounced quite romantic The climate is, on the whole, salubrious. Hydrography. — The parish is abundantly supplied with water ^ from springs, rivulets, and rivers. The North Esk is the princi* pal stream ; it traverses the parish for somewhat more than a mile. The salmon-fishing upon it used to let for L. 25 a-year ; but since the introduction of stake*nets, the expense of the fishery far ex- ceeds the profit. The next river of importance is the West* water, { which separates Strickathrow from Lethnot and Edzell. A third \ stream is the Cruik, an inconsiderable rill in summer, but, owing to the great declivity of its channel, a formidable torrent in rainy weather. Mineralogy and Geology. — The hill of Stracathro seems to be composed principally of limestone, underlying a stratum of very bard pudding-stone. The lime quarries at one time yielded a profit of L.500 a-ycar. 6TRICKATHROW. 665 and might still be wrought to advantage^ were proper means used for draining off the water. The kind of stone which prevails through the rest of the parish is a red sandstone, which stands the action of the weather very ill, unless taken from a considerable depth below the bed of the rivers. The angle of inclination of the strata is very irregular. In general it dips towards the north ; the declivity varying from 1 foot in 6 to 1 foot in 9. Botany^ ^c, — This parish affords small scope for the pur- suits of the botanist, zoologist, and mineralogist Among the trees that thrive best the principal is the beech,— which is also much used for ornamental fences. In soaie places the ash, American spruce, and lime have attained a noble size. The Cruik abounds in trout, — one species of which appears to be pe- culiar to it. In size and appearance they very much resemble the fry of the salmon ; but in flavour they are far superior. II. — Civil Historv. This parish seems to have given birth to no character of distin- guished genius or eminence, except the late celebrated Sir George Rose, whose father, an Episcopal clergyman, long resided at Woodside of Dunlappie. Antiquities. — On the farm of Ballownie,, about ilOO yards west from the church, were lately discovered in a mound, which named the Lousy-hillock^ some relics of antiquity, which seem- ed to indicate that it had been used as a place of sacrifice by the Druids. The mound is about 40 yards in diameter, and rises about 9 feet above the level of the adjacent field. Some years ago, on removing the turf, it was found to be fenced with a dike or rampart of loose stones, which, no doubt, had been con- tinued around the whole circle; but on the south and east sideg these have entirely disappeared ; having, in all probability, been taken away for useful purposes. On removing the rampart, the in- terior of the mound was found to consist of good black mould, in- terspersed with masses of a very dark unctuous*Iooking substance. On penetrating a few yards farther, the workmen encountered a large block of whinstone, 4 feet long, 2| feet broad, and 18 inches thick. Underneath this was a flat slab, and below it, a grave or box, 24 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 18 inches NOMy. Villages* — There is do place in the parish that deserves the name of a village, except Inchbare, which consists of about a dozen of scattered bouses ; and where there are a smith, carpenter, a tailor, two shoemakers, a grocer's shop, and two public- houses, which are happily little frequented except by passing travellers. Means ofCommunicatiotu^^Boih the old and new turnpike roads between Aberdeen and Perth traverse the parish fpr about two« miles. Along the latter, the Defiance coach passes and repasses every lawful day. There is also a carrier to Brechin twice, and to Montrose once a-week. The commutation roads are amply suf* ficieat for the accommodation of the population, intersecting the parish in all directions. . Some years ago, they were in a most mi- serable state. Latterly, they have been brought into excellent order, having been placed under the management of five of the principal rate-payers. Ecclesiastical State, — There are two glebes attached to the liv- ing ; that of Dunlappie, which contains nearly three acres ; and of Stracathro, about seven and a half arable acres ; and two occu- pied by houses, shrubs, and plantations. The amount of stipend averages about L.] 70 ; the annual value of the glebes, L.12. The whole population, with the exception of sixteen persons, are mem« hers of the Established Church. Divine service is generally well attended. The church was erected in 1799, and lately underwent a thorouglb repair. It is in consequence extremely comfortable, and is, in cold weather, heated by a stove in the adjoining vestry. It is conveniently situated, and afibrds ample accommodation ; the number of sittings being 360. The manse was built in 1831, is a very commodious mansion, finely situated upon a sloping bank at a short distance from the Cruik, and surrounded, and well shel- tered by thriving plantations and shrubbery. Education* — At present, there are in the parish one parochial school ; two under the direction of the Session, supported by sub- scription ; one seminary for young ladies. The average attend- ance is about 110 ; the total attendance throughout the year, 135 ; but a number of the pupils belong to the adjoining parishes of Bre- chin, Logie-Pert, and Menmuir. There are also two Sabbath evening schools, and two for farm-servants, each open, on every alternate evening, from the term of Martinmas to the 1st of March. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is the medium. The 3 STRICKATHROW. 669 emoluments of the two sessional teachers are entirely derived from private contributions and school-fees. To each of them are allot- ted a rent-free house, school-room, and garden, but their means of subsistence are miserably inadequate, so that it is very di£Bcult to procure or to retain good teachers. Library. — There is a parish library, consisting of upwards of 300 volumesof religious works and tracts, and miscellaneous literature. * Poor and Parochial Fundi* — The number of names upon the poor^s roll is, at present, 20 : but, including children and relations entirely dependent upon paupers, they amount to 33, being about one-seventeenth of the entire population. The allowance gene- rally given varies from 5s. to 15s. per quarter. There is also a regular distribution of coals and meal to the most necessitous of the population, whether upon the poor's roll or not, twice during winter. It is, for the most part, with great reluctance that paro- chial aid is applied for. The sources from which the funds are derived are as follows : Collections at church, fines esacted from delinquents, and mortcloth dues, about L.24 per annum ; dona- tions from the heritors, about L.58 ; interest on stock of L.270, and on bank account-current, L.ll. To this has to be added the interest of a legacy of L.dO from the late George Cooper, mer- chant in Slateford. The interest of this sum, aided by contribu- tions from the resident heritors, and other benevolent individuals, is appropriated for the purchase of winter-coals and meal, shoes, an^ any other little articles of clothing that may be required. Upon the whole, the poor are well provided for, and, in general, very contented. April 1843. PARISH OF AIRLIE. t*RE8BYT£RY OF MEIGLE, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. DAVID WHITE, MINISTER.* L — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The name of this parish occurs in ancient documents in the various forms of ErroUy, Eroly, Iroly, Airlie, the last of which has been revived by the present Earl, in preference to the modern spelling, Airly. The etymology is uncertain. It has been suggested that the name may have been originally Airdly, from the Gaelic Aird, which is used to denote the extremity of a ridgei particularly where it terminates abruptly, and which is exactly de- scriptive of the locality of Airlie Castle. The ancient milntown of the barony is called Dillavaird or Dalnavaird, which is inter* preted, '* a flat piece of ground by the side of a river, at or near Iho Aird." Boundaries and Extent. — The parish of Airlie is situated in the western part of the county, and borders upon Perthshire. It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Lintrathen and Kinggld- rum ; on the east, by Kirriemuir and Glammiss ; on the south, by Essie and Meigle ; and on the west, by Alyth and Ruthv^n. Part of the line of boundary is formed by the river Isla, and its tributa- ries, the Melgum and Dean. The extreme length of the parish from east to west is six miles, and its breadth varies from half a mile to four miles, making a surface of 8600 acres, or between thirteen and fourteen square miles. General Description, — The southern part of the parish lies in the bottom or " howe" of Strath more, from which it gradually rises in a series of undulating parallel ridges, forming a portion of the braes of Angus. These ridges, descending from higher shoulders on the east, sink towards the west into comparatively low grounds ; with the exception of the principal one, which stretches along the * Drawn up at the request of a gentleman to whom the conductor applied, by Mr V'Uliam Ramsay, Student of Divinity, Alyth, with the valuable assistance of Mr Blackadder, Civil-engineer, Glammiss, by whom the substance of great part of tb« Account has been contributed. AIRLIE. 671 north side of the parish, and terminates in a deep rocky gorge, through which the Isla pours its waters from the high into the low country. At Airlie Castle, this ravine separates into two, which respectively form the channels of the Isla and the Melgum. The Den of Airlie, which extends for above a mile below the junction of these streams, is justly celebrated for its romantic beauty. The clear stream of the Isla, hurrying far below over its rocky chan- nel, and the lofty and precipitous braes, clothed with every variety of natural brushwood, compose one of the Bnest pieces of river sce- nery to be found in this part of the country. The Kirktown is pleasantly situated about a mile and a hsdf south-east from the castle, and rather less than a mile to the east of the river. The elevation of this parish ranges from below 150 to upwards of 500 feet above the level of the sea. Geology. — With the exception of a trap-dike, which crosses the channel of the Isla towards the foot of the gorge at Airlie Castle, and appears again about half a mile to the north-east on the farm of Brae of Airlie, the mineral strata in this parish belong entirely to the old red sandstone formation. The strike or run of the basset edges of the different beds is from north-east to south-west. The synclinal line of Strathmore crosses the parish from its north-east point to Dillavaird on the Isla. On the south of the line the strata dip gently to the south-west, but on the north of it their inclina- tion is towards the south-east On this side, they curve more ra- pidly upwards, and attain within a short distance of the synclinal line very high elevations, so as to become nearly vertical along the summit of the Airlie ridge. The sandstone is here of the brownish-red colour, and, in the upper beds, is frequently found intermixed with small portionsof a whitish colour, called calmstonej and sometimes interstratified with beds of that species. Many of these upper beds are un6t for any useful purpose, being apt to crumble by the action of the atmosphere. The lower beds, how- ever, are of a more durable texture, and, where they admit of being quarried, those of finer grain are applicable to all the different pur- poses of architecture, while those of coarser grain are extensively used for drjstone dikes and ordinary rubble building?. In several^ there is a mixture of conglomerate ; and some of the lowest beds, as in the gorge at Airlie Castle, become an entire mass of conglo- merated pebbles, none of them exceeding a few inches in diame- ter, and consisting chiefly of rounded portions of quartz, with a mixture of other minerals. The cementing substance of these peb- FORFAR. X X 672 FORFARSHIRE* bles, which also forms the cement of the grains or particles of the finer sandstones, is of a ferro-calcareous nature, and occurs in some of the beds of the latter in a pure calcareous state, in the form of nodules varying from one to four inches in diameter, and occasiook ally larger. Thus whole portions of the rock become nearly cal- careous, good examples of which are exhibited in the section of the Melgum. The largest mass of this nature, however, occurred on the opposite side of the line, on the farm of Reedie. It was for« merly wrought for lime, but all the portions available for this pur- pose are understood to be now exhausted. Traces of fossil fishes^ similar to those found in the red sandstone of the Carse of Grow- rie, at Clashbennie, have been observed at the Grange of Airlie, in a quarry of the mottled sandstone ; and it is probable that, by more careful investigation, more perfect specimens may be dis* covered, both there, and in other quarries of the same description. Throughout great part of this parish, the rocks are under cover of debris, of various depth and composition. Where the cover is thin, it consists almost entirely of abraded portions of the subja- cent rock. In the flat grounds and hollows, where it is deeper, it is composed partly of the same materials, and partly of debris from the higher grounds, consisting of a mixture of sand, gravel, and Grampian boulders of various sizes, mingled without regular layers, and impermeable to water. This impervious debris, or till, is in this part of the country provincially termed mortar^ from one kind of it having been formerly much used as a cement in building. The rock and till, throughout two- thirds of the parish, are over- spread by sands and gravels. These commence at the mouth of the gorge below Airlie Castle, and spread out in great breadth to the east along the hollow towards the Kirktown, and to the south across the western face of the Lindertis ridge, covering almost the whole of the flat bottom on the south. At the place where these gravels leave the course of the Isia, that river takes a sudden bend to the west, and is margined by a similar band of gravels, but not nearly to the same breadth as those which diverge from the course of the river, and keep right forward over the high grounds in front. Covers of this nature have recently excited great interest. They are held by some geologists to have originated from the action of glaciers ; and, by whatever cause they may have been produced, it must evidently have been one much more powerful than any at pre- sent in operation. The gravelly cover is generally acervated into low rounded hil- 3 AIRLIE^ 673 locks, of (liflTerent shapes, presenting a very irregular undulating surface of swells and hollows. Many of the latter are landlocked^ and are usi]lally filled up to some extent with peat-moss or earthy marsh. Several contain depositions of shell-marl, under a surface of peat. These deposits were at one time numerous, but several of the smaller are now exhausted, having been dug out for manure. The largest deposits in this parish were in the mosses of Cook- stone and Baikie, particularly in the latter, which is one of the most extensive in Strathmore, and the most interesting in a geolo- gical point of view. A very luminous and complete account of it has been drawn up by C. Lyel^, Esq. and published in the Tran- sactions of the Geological Society, to which the scientific reader is referred. One of the most remarkable features in this deposit is the occurrence of portions of it, sometimes a foot in thickness, in the form of solid compact limestone, the shells contained in them remaining^ unaltered. The same peculiarity is observed at Cookstone, but not so perfectly. The deposit of marl at Baikie extended at one time to forty acres, with a depth varying from one to six or seven yards. Antlers of deer, sometimes of a very large size, and horns of oxen, have been frequently found in the moss, and, a few years ago, a human skeleton was discovered in it. 5ot7.-*-The soil varies in quality according to the nature of the subsoil on which it rests. Where it lies immediately upon the rock, it consists in general of fine brownish-red and black loams, particularly suitable for the growth of turnips, grass, and barley. On the till bottoms where some permeable earthy matter is inter- posed between the till and the surface soil, as at Brydieston and Cardean, there is a considerable extent of loams of fine quality, and of a darker colour ; but where this is absent, which is gene- rally the case on the till bottoms in the northern part of the parish, the soil is thin and barren, though susceptible of great improve- ment by furrow-draining and subsoil ploughing. Part of the Strathmore clays at the foot of the parish are also so impermeable as to require furrow-draining, but where elevated on the swells they are of a more mellow character, with a fine fertile soil. On the gravels, particularly where they are intermixed with sharp sand, there are also tracts of good black loam, but in many places, especially where the bottom is of a soft dead nature, the soil is bare and indifferent ; and although the poorest land in the parish is that which lies on the impervious till on the north-east, there is also a considerable tract of inferior soil on the sands and gravels 674 FORFARSHIRE. along the southern side. The whole of this, however, from the advantages of situation which it enjoys, is now kept regularly un- der tillage. When allowed to remain in grass above a few years, it becomes completely overspread with broom, which prevails here to a great extent, and speedily makes its appearance on neglected grounds. A margin of deep alluvial loam, extending in some places to upwards of 300 yards in breadth, stretches, with few interruptions, along the whole course of the Dean. It is very productive ; but the western parts of it, with the rising ground immediately conti- guous, are extremely subject to mildew. The greater part of the mosses and marshy grounds have now been brought under cultiva- tion, and bear good crops, particularly where shell marl is found. Botany. — The vegetation of the parish is geologically associated with the old red sandstone formation, which, as has been already mentioned, assumes a conglomerate character in (he Den of Air- lie, a locality rich in interest, not only to the botanist, but to the admirer of romantic scenery, and the lover of old Scottish story. To the botanical student it is classic ground, as a favourite resort of the elder Don, and the scene of some of his earliest discoveries. There are few places where so great a variety of rare or inte* resting plants are to be found within a space so limited in extent, and so easy of inspection. The Ribes petrteum or rock-currant, a rare plant, originally discovered by G. Don, is to be found a lit-* tie below the Low Garden. The Orobus niger^ originally dis- covered by Drummond, grows immediately behind the castle. This, too, is a rare plant, though it is a mistake to suppose it peculiar to Forfarshire, as stated in Watson's Geographical Distribution of British Plants, p. 89. We know certainly that it is to be found in Perthshire, and we believe likewise in Inverness-shire. The curious Paris quadrifolia^ rare in Strathmore, may be gathered on a projecting ridge of rock by the side of the Isia, a short dis- tance below the Low Garden ; and, in the same vicinity, the LU^' tera ovata^ and the still more interesting Nidus-avis, The Con- vallaria majalis (the lilly of the valley,) we hope " truly indige- nous," occurs on the side of the upper walk. The Vicia sylvatica^ with its trailing festoons of lovely flowers ; the Lonicera Periclyme* ntinj, the Lysimachia nemorum^ Hyacinthus nonscriptus, Saxifraga hypnoides and granulata^ Ranunculus auricomusy Imcrium search' doniay Lychnis viscuriOi Geranium lucidum^ Trollius EuropauSf Arenaria trinervis^ Allium ursinum^ &c., are likewise to be found ; AIRLIE. 675 and associated with tliese along the margin of the river, the Alche^- milla alpifuZf and Gallium boreakj foreigners to the soil, and plainly migrants from a fcnore elevated region, transported by the torrents of winter. The showy Epilobium ai%gustifolium grows at the con- fluence of the Melgum and Isla. The gray walls of Airlie Castle are adorned by the Cheiranthus Cheiri (wallflower,) which finds a secure abode in their crevices, and, in recompense for the shelter which they afford it, sheds around them its beauty and its perfume. In other parts of the parish there are plants worthy of notice* The Rumex aquaticus^ supposed till lately to be rare, may be ga* thered in abundance near the manse. The beautiful OrobussyU vatieus grows sparingly on the side of the road leading along the Kaims of Airlie ; and the Astragalus glycyphyllns may be disco- vered on the banks of the Melgum. The Trientalis EuroptBa, Cerastium arvense (abundant in Strathmore, though apparently having a very local distribution ;) Viola paiustris and Cardamine amara are likewise to be found in the parish ; and the Plantago maritima (van jS.) afar from the sea, or any elevated ridge of mountains, in which situation it seems to have been supposed that it exclusively rejoices. The above catalogue must not be regarded as complete. One or two plants are mentioned by Don as grow- ing near Airlie Castle (see his list of Forfarshire plants in Head- rick's Agricultural Report of the County,) which we have not been able to detect, and which, while undiscovered, ought to sti- mulate the researches of the botanical student.* It is to be hoped, however, that, in pursuing his researches on the banks of the Isla, he will not imitate the example of some who have preceded him, in uprooting the plants, or, at least, that he will spare the rarer species, several of which, from this improper practice, are in dan- ger of disappearing altogether. The natural brushwood in the Den of Airlie consists chiefly of oak, with an intermixture of other trees, and is remarkable as con- taining, with a similar stool at Ruthven, a few miles down the river, the most easterly remains of natural oak wood on the southern face of the Grampians. Zoology. — The Isla, Melgum, and Dean, are all good sporting streams. Besides being well supplied with trout, the two former are also frequented by salmon, which are prevented from ascend- ing much beyond the limits of this parish by rapids and waterfalls. From some natural cause, salmon do not usually enter the Dean; * These remarks on the botiiny of the parbh have been commanLated by the Hev. J. S. Barty of Beadocby. 676 FORFARSHIRC. but, besides the ordiDary white trout, it has a Yariety of a red co- lour, similar to that of Lochleven, from which the breed is said to have been introduced. The freshwater muscle {Mytiluscjfffniu$) is common in the Dean, and is sometimes also to be met with in Baikie moss. It is frequently mistaken for the pearl oyster {Mya margaritiferaj) which is common in the South Esk« The wild goose has forsaken its usual winter haunts along the bottom of the parish since the draining of the marshes. The Isla and Dean are occa- sionally visited by various rare migratory birds, of which may be noticed the golden-eye (^Anas clanguloj) the morillon (the young of the golden- eye,) the tufted duck (Anas fuliytdo^) the Dun-di« ver, supposed to be the female or young of the goosander (Mergus merganser.) The kingfisher (Alcedo ispida) has now become nore rare than formerly. The wild swan {Anas cggnusj) has also been occasionally seen in severe winters, and a flock of cranes (Ardea grus) visited us a few years ago. There is a falcon's nest on a high crag on the western side of the river, a little above the boundary of this parish, but belonging by ancient right to the Earl of Airlie. It has been frequented from time immemorial. The young are still sometinaes taken out and trained for hawking. Pheasants have been introduced into the parish, and the ordinary kinds of game are plentiful. Roe deer are found in the woodlands. Rabbits, after a long disappear- ance, have of late years become a nuisance, owing to the small beasts of prey being kept down for the sake of the game. Besides the weasel, polecat, &c. the Mustcla martes or wood martin, a very rare animal in Britain, has been sometimes found. A very fine one was shot by the Earl of Airlie in 1814 in the woods adjoining the castle. Squirrels have also made their appearance from the west within the last twenty years, and are now very common. II. — Civil Historv. The only historical event of any general interest connected with this parish is the destruction of Airlie Castle, celebrated in the fine old ballad of the " Bonnie House of Airlie." The bal- lad, however, is not to be relied on as containing a strictly faithful narrative of the occurrence. The following particulars are chiefly taken from Spalding's ^' History of the Troubles in England and Scotland*'' The Earl of Airlie at that period was peculiarly ob- noxious to the ruling party, as one of the most distinguished and inflexible champions of the royal cause. In 1639, the middle parts of Scotland were put under his command by King Charles L In the year 1640, in the absence of the Earl, who had fled AIRLIE. 677 into England to avqjd the necessity of subscribing the Co?enant, the Earl of Argyle, a hereditary enemy of the Ogilvies, obtained authority from the Committee of Estates to take and destroy the Castle of Airlie, and that of Porter in Glenisla, which was also one of the seats of the Airlie family. He accordingly raised a body of 5000 men of his own clan, and proceeded, in the month of July, to execute his commission. Lord Ogilvy, who had been left in charge of the castle, perceiving resistance to be hopeless, abandoned it to the assailants, who plundered it of everything that could be carried away, and burned it to the ground. Argyle is said to have shown himself so extremely earnest in the work of demolition, that, according to James Gordon, parson of Ro* thiemay (Hist, of Scot. Affairs), " He was seen taking a hammer in his hand and knocking down the hewed work of the doors and windows till he did sweat for heat at his work." There is a tradition among the people of Rattray, that the men who burned Airlie Castle halted for the night on the haughs at that village ; which agrees with the statement in the ballad, that •* they came down by the back of Dunkeld.'^ The Castle of Forter was demolished in the same manner, ex- cept that, if local tradition may be credited, the Campbells kept possession of it for several months before they destroyed and aban- doned it. The Lady Ogilvy, who was then residing at Forter, is said to have been treated with the greatest cruelty by Argyle, who not only would not allow her, although far advanced in preg- nancy, to repnain at Forter till she was brought to bed, but even refused to grant permission to her grandmother and his own kins- woman, the Lady Drimmie, to'^receive her into her house of Kelly. (Gordon, Vol. iii. p. 166). The House of Craig, in Glenisla, although not included in Argyle's commission, was destroyed at the same time. This part of the transaction is thus related by Gordon : *< At such time as Argyle was making havoc of Airlie's lands, he was not forgetful to remember old quarrels to Sir John Ogilvy of Craig, cousin to Airlie ; therefore he directs one Ser- geant Campbell to Sir John Ogilvy's house, and gives him war- rant to sleight it. The sergeant coming thither, found a sick gentlewoman there and some servants, and looking upon the house with a full survey, returned without doing anything, telling Ar- gyle what he had seen, and that Sir John Ogilvy's house was no strength at all, and therefore he conceived that it fell not within his orders to cast it down* Argyle fell in some chafe with the 678 FORFARSHIRE. sergeaDt, telling him that it was his part to have obeyed his or* ders, and instantly commanded him back again, and caused him deface and spoil the house." It is remarkable that, a very short time before the destructioa of Airlie Castle, an unsuccessful attempt had been made upon it by the Earl of Montrose, then a champion of the Covenant, of whom, in the latter part of his career, the Earl of Airlie was the most devoted adherent The feud between the families of Argyle and Airlie had been of long standing. In Pitcairn's Trials, we find James Lord Ogilvy complaining, on the 2l8t October 1591^ that a body of Argyle's men had attacked him when residing peaceably in Glenisla, killed several of his people, ravaged the country, and compelled himself and his lady to flee for their lives. The burning of the Bonnie House of Airlie was, in 1646, re* venged by the destruction of the Castle of Gloom, near Dollar, one of the residences of the Earl of Argyle, which still remains in ruins. The noble family of Ogilvy became connected with this parish in the year 1458, when Sir John Ogilvy of Lintrathen received a grant of the castle and barony from James II. The chivalrous loyalty by which the Airlie family has always been distinguished, and the prominent and gallant part taken by its successive repre- sentatives in the commotions of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, are familiar to every reader of Scottish history. A full account of the genealogy of the family, with notices of its most eminent members, has already been given in the account of the parish of Cortachy, which renders it unnecessary to enter into the subject here. One important particular, however^ has been omit- ted ; the marriage of Gilchrist, Maormar of Angus, with the Princeps Matilda, sister of William the Lion. This illustrious alliance is very obviously designated in the armorial bearings as* signed to his descendants. The arms of the neighbouring family of Strath more are also commemorative of a similar matrimonial connection ; their founder, two centuries later, having married a sister of Robert II. In both these cases, the object is to exhibit an analogy to, and a diflerence from, the royal insignia. This is attained, in the former, by representing the lion in a different at* titude from that in which he appears in the national arms, being, in heraldic phrase, ** passant, gardant," instead of '' rampant ;*' while the allusion intended is sufficiently intimated by the addition of the royal crown placed upon his bead. In the latter, the de- AlULIE. 679 sign of the royal arms is exactly copied, while the colours are dif- ferent ; ** argent" and ** azure" being substituted for <* or*' and " gules." AnHquitiei. — Near Cardean, there are the remains of i^loman camp, which, though partially obliterated by agricultural opera- tions, can still be distinctly traced. The natural position is very strong. It is protected on the north by the Isla, which comes nearly close to it, and on the south by the Dean, which there flows through a deep gorge ; and the flat grounds contiguous to both seem to have been swamps. Some remains of the great Roman road, which ran east from this encampment along the hollow of Strathmore, are also still visible. There are about 500 yards of it, in good preservation, in the eastern part of this parish, commencing in a plantation on the farm of Reidie, and stretching along some moor ground on the lands of Auchindory. About a mile to the westward, in the old 6r-wood of Landerick, on the Giammiss property, there is a small earthen tumulus, surrounded by a circular fosse. It appears to have been used as a station of observation, as tumuli of the same kind are to be met' with in other parts of the county, near the remains of Roman military works. Two caverns, formed within dry knolls, which probably served as retreats to the ancient inhabitants in time of danger, have been discovered in this parish ; one about half-way between the castle and the Kirktown, and the other about a mile to the south. They are separated by a deep hollow, but are within view of each other. They seem to have been from four to six feet in width, from twenty to thirty in length, and about six feet in height, and were constructed with dry stone walls on the sides, and roofed over with very large long stones, with a covering of earth. The entrances had been concealed by thickets of broom. The stone covers, which are of red sandstone, have been obtained near the spot, but evidently quarried with considerable care and labour. In several places, on the dry knolls, stone coffins have been found, some of them con* taining urns of coarse earthenware. In different parts of the pa« rish there are remains of Druidical circles, some of which are to* lerably perfect. The old Castle of Airlie occupied a commanding position on the rocky promontory, formed by the confluence of the Melgum with the Isla. From the natural advantages of the situation, and the massive strength of the building, it must have been almost, 680 FORFARSHIBE. if not entirely, hnprogaable before the introductioD of arttllerj. In its original state, it exhibited the ibrm of an oblong quadrangle^ occupying the whole summit of the promontory, with the excep- tion o^a small space at the extremity, whidi is traditionally said to have been used for exercising the horses. Some remains of the northern part of the castle have been incorporated mUk tlw present modem building. The high and massive exterior wall which protected the castle on the eastern and most accessible side, with the portcullis entry, still remains nearly in its original state. The wall has been sufficiently repaired to remedy and prevent the injuries of time, but without impairing its antique character. The fosse, also, is still distinct, but has been partially filled up, to render the place accessible to carriages. These scanty remains are all that is now left to attest the original strength of the castle, and carry the imagination back to the days of feud and foray, when Airlie Castle reared its head proudly amidst the noblest baronial fortresses of the land. The ruins of Baikie Castle, situated on a rounded knoll vrhich juts, out into the moss, were still visible at the date of the last Statistical Account ; but every vestige of them is now gone. In the west gable of the parish church, there is a 6gure, which is obviously intended as a representation in basso relievo of St John the Baptist, to whom the church was originally dedicated. This saint seems to have been an object of special veneration to the family of Strathmore, in whom the patronage of this parish is vested. A figure of similar design, but of smaller size, was fished up off Inchkeith, formerly the property of that family, and is now deposited in the Edinburgh College Museum. A statue, very rudely sculptured, and a good deal defaced by exposure to the weather, formerly stood in the avenue at Airlie Castle, and is now placed in one of the apertures of the old wall. In its present state, it is difficult to determine whether it was designed as a re- presentation of St John, or of one of the savages common as sup* porters in Scottish heraldry, as the hirsute appearance which it presents is equally consistent with either supposition ; but as one of the arms appears to be supporting something before the breast, which may have been a cross, we are perhaps warranted in con- sidering it as a rude image of the Baptist. Besides the figure of St John, another curious relic of the old church has been with good taste preserved in the modern building. It is a small stone almeryj or locker, on which are represented the five wounds of AIRLIB. 681 the Passion, and which probably served in Roman Catholic times as a repository for some of the baptismal apparatus. Modern Seats, — The modern house at Airlie Castle, which was originally intended merely as an occasional summer resort, has been subsequently so much improved, as to render it a commo- dious residence. It is now occupied by the Honourable Captain W. Ogiivy, who retired here at the termination of the war, and has contributed much to the improvement of the district, both by what he has himself done, and by the influence of his example* Lindertis House was almost entirely rebuilt, in 1813, by the late proprietor, Mr Laing Meason, from a design by Elliot of Edin- burgh, in the castellated style. It is well wooded, and flnely si- tuated, commanding an extensive view of the richest part of Strath- more. Baikie House is a small plain building, in a low hollow situation, and was also erected by the late proprietor. It is now the property of Mr Murray of Simprim. Proprietors, — The parish is now divided among six proprietors ; the Earls of Airlie and Strathmore ; Sir Thomas Monro, Bart of Lindertis (the son of the late distinguished Major- Greneral Sir Thomas Monro) ; Patrick Murray, Esq. of Simprim ; P. Wed- derburn Ogiivy, Esq. of Ruthven ; Fothringham, Esq. ; and G. B. C. Henderson, Esq. The Strathmore fjEunily formerly possessed a much greater extent of land in the parish. The lands of Auchindory, belonging to the Earl of Airlie, were originally held in feu from the Abbey of Cupar- Angus, to which the Ogiivy family appear to have been benefactors to a considerable extent, and of which they held the office of heritable baillie down to the year 1748. Parochial Registers. — The parochial records consist of registers of births and marriages, minutes of session, and accounts of the poor's funds. They have been in general regularly kept. The earliest entry in the session books is dated May 28, 1682. III. — Population. The population of this parish has been nearly stationary since the date of the former Statistical Account It amounted at that period to 865 ; in 1831, to 860 ; and, in 1841, to 868, of whom 430 were males, and 438 females. The number under twelve years of age was 227. There are 179 houses, including 19 bo- thies. Of this population, 520 are supported by agriculture, 103 by manufactures, and 245 by other occupaiions. The number of 682 FORFARSHIRE. men engaged as farm-servants is 85; as shepherds^ 6; and in feeding cattle, See. 12. There are 75 looms in tbe pAiisb^ and the same number of weavers, of whom 21 are at present out of employment The number of marriages during the last twelve months is stated at 7 ; of deaths, 6 ; and of births, 20. E^ght illegitimate children have been bom within the last three years. There are 54 cottar families, with houses and yards only; 16 persons who occupy two or three acres of ground, enabling them to keep a cow ; and 1 9 who keep single cows without land. Only one of the heritors is occasionally resident. All their rentals exceed L.50 a-year. The people are in general moral, industrious, and intelligent ; and, with the exception of those employed in weaving, who, from the lowness of their wages and the scarcity of work, are often re* duced to great distress, they are, for the most part, in circum« stances of comfort, and contented. IV. — Industry. Affriculture.— -The parish contains 6848 imperial acres under cultivation, 1365 in wood, and 387 in pasture, waste, roads, &c. The valued rent amounts to L.3310. The present real rent, a great part of which depends upon the 6ars' prices of grain, ave- rages above L.7000, including the value of the grounds around the seats of tbe proprietors. The farms range in size from 600 acres of arable land to pendicles of two or three acres, rented by wea- vers and tradesmen. The rents vary from 10s. to L.1, 10s. per acre, the average being reduced by the great quantity of inferior land recently brought under tillage. The state of agriculture in this parish has been materially im- proved since the commencement of the century. At that period, some of the Airlie tenants were among the first in Strathmore to set the example of an improved mode of husbandry ; — and their suc- cessors still maintain a high place among the agriculturists of the district. The whole is now kept under good management, accord- ing to the system of tillage which is found to be most suitable to the nature of the soil. A six years rotation is generally followed. The land is kept three years in grass, when it is broken up for oats; then turnips, followed by barley; after which, it is sown down again to grass. When potatoes are taken for the green crop, wheat is sown instead of barley. Other rotations are occasionally adopted, all, however, embracing two or more years in grass. The AIRLIE. 683 plaiD or naked fallow, once so general, is now seldom to be seen, except for some very particular reason ; and the old practice of taking two white crops in succession after old grass is almost en- tirely disused. Most of the deep and expensive drains and levels were made prior to 1620, when the damp and marshy grounds were 6rat brought under cultivation. Furrow draining, both by tiles and stones, has since been introduced to complete the process of improvement. The arid soils are generally kept in heart by means of turnips raised with bone-dust, and eatem off by sheep. It may be mentioned, as an instance of the progress of rural improve- ment, that the young stock of sheep from the Grampians, which were formerly brought down to be wintered in this parish on the natural grass and broom, are now sent to the higher pastures nearer the coast, and, on their return in spring, are frequently put, in order to improve their condition, upon turnips grown on the very same grounds from which they formerly cropped a scanty herbage. Shell*-n\arl is still in use as a manure, but not to the same ex« tent as formerly. From twenty^five to thirty bolls is a common dressing to an imperial acre. It is much used for making com- posts with moss and dung, and is considered as very good for grass, but not equal to lime in producing grain, although it yields a great quantity of straw. During the war, it usually sold at one shilling per boll of eight cubic feet, the expense of taking it out being from twopence to threepence. The price is at present nine« pence. It is now usually sold to go farther up the country. Bone- dust, rape-cake, and the whole host of modern manures, are more or less in use. The first, especially, has been extensively employ- ed for more than twenty years. An occasional supply of town- manure is obtained from Dundee, to which a decided preference is given by the tenantry above every other description of manure. The best mode of applying it is found to be by mixing it with the dung of the farm-yard. The practice of paying the reaper by the threave, instead of by days' wages, now generally adopted in this and the adjoining coun- ties, originated about forty years ago in this parish, on the farm of Linross, then occupied by Mr George Kirkcaldy. While, by this mode, the corn is more carefully and economically cut down, it is at the same time fairer to the labourer, whose gains are proper • tioned to his exertions ; and it is peculiarly advantageous to those who are necessarily engaged at home during part of the day. The usual rate of payment has long been threepence per threave for 684 FORFARSHIRE. oats and barley, and fourpence for wheat, the-wheat^threave con* taining four sheayes naore* About twenty-eight threaves per im- perial acre is a common quantity. Ten threave per day, and some* times more, nay be cut, bound, and set up by a good reaper. The farm-bouses and offices are, in general, substantial and commodious, and usually cost, ezclusiye of carriages, from two to three years rent Almost all the fields are inclosed, either with hedges, or with dry-stone dikes. The former, with the interspersed woodlands, give to a great part of the parish a warm, clothed q>» pearance. Lif>e'StodL-^lt is not above twenty or thirty years since almost the only sheep to be seen in the low country pastures during the summer months were a few on the lawns round the houses of the proprietors, and these were exclusively of the black-faced breed. Regular stocks of the Leicester breed are now kept, and through- out the district, the thinner soils are usually depastured with sheep. At the same period, all the cattle were of the native Angus breed, partly horned, but generally polled or ** dodded ;" a very fine de- scription of stock, but less profitable on good soils than the Tees- water, which is now taking their place on the larger farms. A cross between the two is becoming very common in the southern part of this parish, where very superior stock of both descriptions is rear- ed, capable of competing with any similar stock in the country. Formerly, all the fat sheep and cattle, beyond what was required for home consumption, or for the supply of the neighbouring towns, were sent partly to Edinburgh, but chiefly to Glasgow. Since the introduction of steam-navigation, a considerable proportion of both, and particularly of the best cattle of the native breed, is sent to London, where they bring the highest pricest Plantations. — The plantations on the Lindertis and Glammiss estates were commenced between 1770 and 1780, and consist of larch, spruce, and Scotch fir, with an intermixture of hard-wood in some places. Many of the larch and spruce trees grew to a large size, but most of the fine timber has been cut down for the benefit of the hard wood. Considerable additions have been made within the last thirty years to the Lindertis plantations, and also to those on the lands of Airlie and Cardean. It is to be regretted that the larch cannot now be depended upon as formerly, from its liability to various destructive diseases. In the woods of Lindertis, it was observed at a very early period to be subject, when planted on dry gravelly soils, to a rot in the AIRLIE. 685 lieart, proceeding from the root upwards ; but this affection was merely local. Those plantations, however, which have been made within the last forty years, have become more and more liable to an external canker or blister, in many cases to such a degree as entirely to destroy the trees, and sometimes to occasion serious loss to the proprietor. The larch appears to have been always subject to this disease, but not, till lately, to an alarming extent. But the woodlands have been visited within the last few years by a much more serious and wide-spread calamity: a great proportion of the younger, and some of the very oldest trees, having been destroyed by blight. The decay commences in the top-shoot, and thence extends downwards, sometimes killing the tree within a single year, and seldom permitting it to survive the third. The disease has become so general, that the planting of larch, unless as a mixture, is in the meantime suspended; a consequence deeply to be lamented, as no other tree is so well adapted for high eleva* lions; and such must now remain in their present nakedness till a remedy or a substitute is discovered. As the Scotch fir has partially suffered in the same manner in some localities, hopes are entertained that the affection may have arisen from some atmo- spheric circumstances of unfrequent occurrence ; but this, of course, remains to be decided by future experience. The silver fir has also been affected ; but the spruce, during the prevalence of the disease among its kindred species, has been fully as vigorous as usual. The blight appears to have come from the east, having attacked the woodlands in the counties of Aberdeen, Kincardine, and Forfar, much about the same time. It has subsequently spread over Fife and Perthshire, to their western extremities, and has been recently observed in the south-western counties, vrhere, however, •it is as yet very partial. Mills, — There are two flour-mills in the parish ; one at Ciook- stone on the Dean, and the other at Cardean, by the side of the Isla, but deriving its power from the Baikie drain ; at both of which a considerable business is carried on ; and two meal-mills, one on the Dean, at Brydeston, and the other on the Isla at Dal- Javaird. There are no manufacturing establishments, but a considerable number of the inhabitants are engaged in- weaving coarse linens for the Dundee trade. Waff 68, — The wages of farm-servants at present may be stated at from L. 10 to L.18, according to capability; those of foremen 686 FORFARSHIRE. at from I^ 14 to L.16, besides meal and milk. Ordinary labour*' ers, last summer, received from Is, 4d. to Is. (kl.; and, during the winter, from Is. 2d. to Is. 4d. ; better labourers, as dikera and ditchers, obtaining 2d. more. Weavers, in the present depressed state of trade, do not make on the average above 7d. per day. The expense of keeping a cow, without land, is stated at L.d to L.4 in summer, and L.2, 10s. to L.8 in winter. The food in winter is straw and turnips. Those who have no land in general buy corn and fodder, and get the farmers to grow turnips for them, providing the manure. V, — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — Several of the leading thoroughfares of the district run through this parish from east to west, and also from the south to the high country, but none of them are turnpike. There are in all 16 miles of principal lines, besides 12 miles of less resort ; all supported by the statute labour funds. Some of the roads were frequently in a very bad state, but they are now much improved. The funds amount to L.82, 1 Is. annually. The railway from Newtyle to Glammiss, which is a continuation of the Dundee and Newtyle line, runs along the confines of the parish on the south. Kirriemuir is the post-town. Ecclesiastical State. — The stipend is 74f bolls barley, 149^ bolls meal, and[L. 33, 3s. b^^A. money. The glebe consists of 9 im- perial acres, 8 of which are arable. The church was rebuilt in 1763 and the manse in 1792. Both are still sufficiently commo-^ dious, and in good repair ; and the situation, although not exactly in the centre of the parish, is perhaps, in other respects, the most eligible that could have been chosen. There is no other place of worship. There are only three families of Dissenters, all the rest of the population being professedly connected with the Esta* blished Church. Education. — The parish school is attended by about 80 in sum- mer, and 36 in winter. The fees are, for reading, 2s. 6d. per quarter ; do. and writing, 3s. ; do. and arithmetic, 3s. 6d. ; Latin, 3s, 6d. ; mathematics and book-keeping, 4s. The schoolmaster has the maxi- mum salary of L. 34, 4s. 4^d., with the statutory accommodations. There is also a private school at Blackhill, where the same fees are charged, and with about the same number of pupils. There is one Sabbath school taught by the minister, which is at present attended by about 70 children and young persons. The people are in general tolerably attentive to the education of their children* LETHNOT AND NAVAR. 687 All are taught reading and writing, but some (from the short time they remain at school) imperfectly. Poor^i Funds, — The average number of paupers for the last three years has been 17 ; in 1842 it amounted to 21. They are all permanent. The ordinary weekly allowance is Is. 6d. ; high* esti 5s. ; but so much as 7s. has been given when an attendant had to be provided. The collections at the church door were, in 1840, L.24, 10s. 7d. ; in 1841, L.22, 17s. 4d. ; in 1842, L.31, Is. 7fd. ; the excess of the sum collected in the last, above those of the two former years, being attributed to there having been an additional sacrament that year, and to part of the Lindertis family residing in summer. The other sums appropriated to the support of the poor during the current year are, contributions by the heritors in proportion to their valued rent to the amount of L.60, and L.2, 5$. of hearse and mortcloth money. The expenses of management are about L.6 per annum. Although it has been found necessary to introduce a system of voluntary assessment, pauperism does not seem to have made so rapid progress in this as in many other pa* rishes. At the date of the old Statistical Account, there had bee^ so many as nine regular paupers on the roll at one time, besides a considerable number receiving occasional supply. Fuel, — An extensive peat-moss on the north-east march of the parish still supplies the neighbourhood with fuel. Elsewhere, the peat and broom, which were the only kinds of fuel used by the poorer classes in this district down to a comparatively recent pe- riod, have been replaced by seaborne coal^ and the refuse of the woodlands. AprU 184a PARISH OF LETHNOT AND NAVAR. PRESBTTERT OF BRECHIN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ALEXANDER GARDNER, A. M. MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Lethnot and Navar, formerly separate parishes, were united in 1723. Extent^ §-c — The extent of the parish in length, from north-west to south*east, is about 15 miles; in average breadth about 5 miles* FORFAR. Y >| 688 FORF'ARSHIRE. It contains 75 square miles. It is bounded on the north, by Loch'- lee ; on tlie east, by Edzell; on the south-east, by Stracathro ; oo the south, by Menmuir; and on the west by Menmuir, Fearn, Tan- nadice, and Clova. Topographical Appearances, — The cultivated and inhabited part of the parish lies along the Westwater and its tributary streams, extending about 9 miles in length, and averaging nearly one mile in breadth. The rest consists of hills and moorland, used as sbeep- walks. The hills in this parish form part of the Grampian range. The liighest IS Wirren, or the hill of springs. There are several others of considerable elevation. Except in the southern part of the parish, where there is some level ground or haughs, the cultivated land lies on acclivities, ris- ing gradually from the Westwater and other streams to the foot of the hills. Hydrography. — There are a few mineral springs in the parish, but of no great importance or magnitude. The principal stream is the Westwater, a branch of the North Esk. Its source is in the upper part of the parish, direction south-east; its whole length about twenty miles. It joins the North Esk about five miles south* east from the parish at Inveriskandy, ?. e. Inveresk and Dye. Geology and Mineralogy. — The rocks composing the hills are all of the primary formation, and, of course, contains no fossil or- gnnic remains. The prevailing kinds of rock are clay-slate and mica- schist, understood to overly a bed of gneiss, but their extent, thickness, &c. are unknown. A vein of blue slate traverses the parish from east to west, and is understood to extend to a great distance in both directions — indeed, from the German Ocean to the Western Isles. The slate is of the same kind as that found at Dunkeld and Easdale, and is thought to be a continuation of the same vein which is wrought at these places. The vein was opened here a few years ago, and wrought for a short time ; but, from want of capital or some other cause, this work was discon- tinued. Some limestone is found in the parish, but of no practical utility. Red sandstone appears immediately on the south side of the Westwater, where it divides this parish from Menmuir; but uone in the parish. Although the mineral springs indicate the presence of iron in some of the rocks, no ores of that or any other metal have been found in the parish. None of the simple minerals found. Various al« LETHNOT AND NAVAR. 689 Ittvial deposits are found in the lower parts of the valley, consist- ing of gravel, sand, clay, marl, and peat, in some of which vege- table remains have been discovered. As in similar localities the soil in the lower parts of the valley is composed of the debris of the neighbouring hills brought down by streams, rains, and the action of the atmosphere. It is pretty deep in some places, and is partly of a clayey and partly of a sandy nature, but the clay seems to prevail. The soil on the higher grounds is much thinner, and of a gravelly nature. II. — Civil History. Land-oumert, — Lord Panmure and General DuQ*, brother of the Earl of Fife. Parochial Registers. — Date of dkrliest entry 1728i Antiquities. — There are the remains of two or three small Druidi- cal temples — one at Newbigging, near the remains of an ancient oastle or tower called Dennyfern, one at Blairno, and one said to have been at Craigendowie, but now demolished. Several small tumuli of stones or cairns, said by tradition to cover those who fell in skirmishes that took place between part of Sir Robert Bruce's army and the English, when in this part of the country* III. — Population. Amount in 1831, . 404 1841, 400 None of the population reside in towns or villages. Yearly average of births fur the last seven years, . 5 nearly, of deaths, ... 6 of marriages, . . 2 IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of acres standard imperial measure in the parish, which are either cultivated or occasionally in til- lage, as nearly as can be ascertained, is 2324. The rest of the parish, as formerly mentioned, consists of hills and moorland in a state of undivided common, and used as sheep walks. There are only about 20 acres of wood in detached plots, chief* ly Scotch fir and larch, and some natural birch. The average rent of arable land per acre in the parish about 12s. The average rent of grazing per ox or cow, L.2, 10s. ; per ewe, or sheep, 8s. The modern system of husbandry is generally pursued. The rotation of cropping is three years of grass, and four of oats, bar- ley, and green crop. No wheat is sown* 690 FORFARSHIUE. Within the last twenty-five years great improyeaaents have taken place with respect to reclaiming waste land, draining, linaiDg, &c. In some cases the extent of arable land has been nearly doubted. Origiqally the leases were all liferents ; a few of these still re* main* The rest are for nineteen years, and are considered most favourable to the occupier. The farm-buildings are in a very in- different state, but the enclosures are good, and mostly of stone. The principal disadvantages of the place arise from the rugged and uneven nature of the roads, and its distance from OEiarket- towns, the nearest, Brechin, being eight miles distant, and the road lying over a steep hill. For the encouragement of his tenants in this and the two neigh- bouring parishes of Edzell and Lochlee, Lord Panmure, the prin- cipal proprietor, with his usual regard to their interest^ several years ago, instituted an annual exhibition of sheep and cattle^ wheo premiums are given by his Lordship for the best specimens of each kind. V. — Parochial Economy. EccUiiastical State. — The church was rebuilt in 1827 ; it is in good repair; affords accommodation for about 250; all sittings free. The manse was built about thirty years ago. The stipend amounts to L. 158, 6s. 1 Id. The annual value of the glebe is about L. 20. Education. — There are two schools in the parish, the parochial school, and another about five miles distant, supported partly by a small mortification, and partly by individual subscription, and taught only during the winter season. The salary of parochial schoolmaster is the maximum. School fees average about L. 7 per annum : he has the legal accommodations. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Average number of persons receif- ing parochial aid, 7. Average sum allotted to each per week, Is. 6d. Besides a few others who receive occasional aid, varying according to their circumstances. The annual amount of contri* butions for their relief, arising from church collections, about L.14; from other funds, L.20. There is a general disposition among the poor to refirain from seekmg parochial aid, so long as they are at all able to procure the means of subsistence, either by their own industry or by the help of their friends. /iieL— The fuel used is chiefly peat and turf procured from the neighbouring hills, and coals from Montrose. May 1843. PARISH OF FORFAR. FRB8BYTBRY OF FORFAR, SYNOD OF ANOUS AND MBARN8. THE REV. W. CLUGSTON, A. M., MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History, Name — The name of this parish in the deeds relative to the patronage, is Forfar Restennet In the ^^ Estate and order of the Presbyteries" in May 1586, as recorded in the Booke of the Uni- versal Kirk, Forfar and Restennet are inserted as separate pa^ rishes, and it seems, therefore, to have been intended to constitute them two distinct parishes, — an intention which was not followed out ; or Forfar Restennet may be a united parish, though do evi- dence as to the period and circumstances of the annexation has been discovered* No satisfactory account can be given of the ety- mology of the name Forfar ; but a conjecture to be afterwards mentioned has been hazarded relative to the name Restennet. Extent^ Boundaries. — The extent of the parish is about 6 miles from north to south, and about 5 from east to west. The parishes by which that of Forfar is bounded are, Rescobie on the east and north ; Dunnichen and Inverarity on the south ; Kinnet- tles on the south and west ; Glammiss on the west ; and Kirriemuir on the west and north. The parish is situated on the south side of the valley of Strath- more. A chain of lochs at one period extended through the val- ley, and three of them were within the bounds of this parish, viz. Forfar, Restennet, and Fithie. One of these lochs, viz. Restennet, has been drained. By cutting a drain to the west, and conduct- ing it to the river Dean, which falls into the river Isla, the loch of Forfar has been greatly reduced in its limits. This loch, though it is contiguous to the town of Forfar, and at one period bounded it on the west and north, is generally understood to be in the parish of Glammiss. The loch, with the land acquired by draining, and which has been brought under cultivation, is part of the estate of the Earls of Strathmore. The parish includes the royal burgh of Forfar, and embraces a considerable landward district The form o{ lYie ^vcV^ vcv^ xXs^ 692 FORFARSHIRE. surface are extremely irregular. The ground on which the town stands and that in its immediate vicinity, is very uiieveB*, coosist- ing of hillocks or mounds of various sizes, and by their undulating form and position, and the nature of the sand and gravel of which they are composed, exhibit proofs of some great and violent con- vulsion in which water had been a principal agent, or that the whole had at one time been under water. To the south of the town the land rises. The hill of Balmashanar, near the town, and that of Lower, at the southern boundary of the parish, are the on- ly eminences that may properly be designated hillg. On Balma- shanar, Craignathro, the town's property on the east of the Dun- dee turnpike road, and Berrymuirhead, also the property of the burgh, and situated at the south-west extremity of the parish, se- veral quarries have been opened, and continue to be wrought. These quarries are similar in their formation and qualities to those which are found in such numbers on the eastern division of the range of the Sidlaw hills in this county. From these quarries^ the stones of which the houses in Forfar are built, and the slatess or rather sandstone flags with which they are covered, and the pavement for the foot-paths in the town, are obtained. The slightly reddish-coloured stone furnished by the Berrymuirhead quarry, is particularly durable. From it were taken the stones for the steeple of the parish church. Immense quantities of pave- ment are du(r from the quarries to the Fouth of Forfar, and are conveyed to Dundee and Arbroath, and thence to« different quar- ters of the kingdom. No other minerals are wrought within the parish. The soil, with the exception of a portion of the southern divi- sion of the parish, which is clayey and wet, is light and dry, and produces excellent oats, barley, and green crop. The state of husbandry throughout the district and neighbourhood is highly creditable to the enterprize and skill of the farmers. The ave- rage rent in the neighbourhood of the burgh is L.2, lOs. per acre. Botany. — The following particulars regarding the botany of the parish are derived from Mr George Don's Account of the Native Plants in the County of Forfar. *' In the fir-woods near Forfar grow the Hieracium paniculatum^ var. maculatum not yet (1813) found in any other part of Britain, together with the beautiful Trollius EuropcBtiSy Pyrola minor^ and rotundifolia^ and also Jun- cus Forsteri^Melica uniflora^ Carex pallescenSf C remota^ Csyhatica^ CIcBvigata^ and Cpenduhy Triticum caninum, and Festuca gigcaUea* There are farther the Dicranum undulatum ^t^^ xJaa Htj^ium eris' FORFAR. 693 ta-castrensis not found any where else in Britain. In the lake of Forfar are found the Typha latifolioy Stratiotes aloides^ Lemna trisulca. In loch Fithie is to be found the hoetes lacustris, gene- rally supposed to he found only in alpine lakes. At the east end of the lake of Forfar, in small pools, is to be found Utricularia vulgaris and minor^ both beautiful plants and of rare occurrence. The Chara hispida grows in pools in the moss of Restennet. The beautiful plant Dianthus deltaides grows on the north bank of the loch of Forfar, as also on dry ground near the west corner of the lake." In Loch Fithie, no marl has been found. The Loch of Res- tennet was drained at considerable expense, principally for the purpose of obtaining the marl which it furnished. The Loch of Forfar was for a long time dragged for the same purpose ; and, from these sources, the proprietors derived a large annual revenue. But the use of marl, as a manure, is very much discontinued, lime being substituted. The marl found in these lochs is what is denominated shell marl, and is formed from the exuviae of several kinds of shell-fish, with which these lakes abound. The marl has been dug to the depth of fifty feet. The Loch of Forfar is fed by powerful springs emptying from its bottom and from its eastern ex- tremity; that of Restennet, by powerful springs at its western extre- mity. Formerly, the Loch of Restennet was, and now the springs conducted by the drain through the moss constitute the head source of Lunan Water, which discharges itself into the sea at Lunan Bay. II. — Civil History. The town of Forfar has been from time immemorial the head burgh of the county, and it was also the sole seat of the sherifiT- court until within the last few years, when a sheriff-substitute was appointed for Dundee and its immediate neighbourhood. In the earliest notices that exist relative to Forfar, its castle is described as a royal residence ; and in the accounts of the Cham- berlain of the Royal Household in the reign of Alexander IIL and of some preceding monarchs, a charge is entered for the King's gardeners at Forfar. It is probable that the castle, the occasional residence of the monarch, and the residence of the sheriff of the county, gave rise to the fame of Forfar, and undoubtedly these circumstances secured to it its privileges as a royal burgh. No- thing is known of the date of its original charter. Antiquities^ — In the vicinity of Forfar, there are remains of two G9I FOBFAUSHIRE. Roman camps, the one at Black Dykes^ or Battle DykeSy in the parish of Oathlaw, the other at Haerfauldsy in the Moor of Lower, in the parish of Inverarity. Between these two camps, there was a causeway, the greatest part of which ran through the parish of Forfar ; and some indications of this road may yet be traced where the land has not been cultivated. Nearly at an equal distance between these two camps, the remains of another camp are dis- tinctly visible. This camp is about a mile and a-half east from Forfar, and is of very considerable extent By some it is alleged that this is the remains not of a Roman but of a Pictish camp. A fosse evidently extended from the Loch of Forfar to that of Restennet, and it is stated (in a paper published by the late Dr Jamieson, author of the Scot. Diet., and who at one time was a Seceder minister in Forfar,) in reference to this camp, ^ that the ditch and the rampart had been cast by the Picts under Feredith, for guarding their camp against the attack from the Scots under A! pin, before the battle of Restennet.^ Occasionally coins, urns, and pieces of armour have been found in the ruins where the camp just mentioned is situated ; but none of them has ever come und^ the notice of the writer of this article. At Restennet there are the ruins of a prrory. It stood on the west end of the lake. It must apparently have been originally wholly surrounded by water, and must have been approached by a bridge. It was connected with the Abbey of Jedburgh ; and as the charters, &c« of that abbey were deposited for safety at Restennet, the conjecture has been hazarded that the phrase res tenet is the origin of the name. It is stated by Spottiswoode, that there came to Scotland, about 697, one Boniface, an Italian, who preached the Gospel, and erected several churches in the kingdom, one near the mouth of the Tay, a second at Tealing, and a third at Restenneth. Boece says that although Fergus appointed lona to be a repository for the public records, yet Alexander I., on account of the great difficulty of the access to lona, had caused our annals to be transported to the Priory of Restennet in Angus. At the death of Alexander III., the monks of Restennet enjoyed the tenth of the hay made in the meadows of the forest of Platen* To the Letter of the Community of Scotland, directed to Edward L from Brigham, are subjoined, among the names of the bishops, earls, abbots, priors, and barons, entries under the head priors *^de Res- tinoth;" — and, in 1296, Robert, Prior of Restennet, swore fealty to Edward Langshanks. From a procuratory of resignation and renua-- FORFAR. 695 ciation by the Prior of Restennet, Maister George Fletcher, Advocat to the King, 29th April 1 624, it appears that the Chapel of Dunr nynald and the Kirk of Aberlemno, with their fruits, profits, and emoluments, were dependencies on Restennet. From the Prior of Restennet, the magistrates and town^council of Forfar pur- chased the right of patronage to Forfar Restennet in 1652, for the sum of 2250 marks Scotts.* On the north side of the Loch of Forfar, there is a peninsula called the Inch. It has obviously been artificially formed, and some of the oak piles on which it rests are to be seen* It is said that Margaret, Queen of Malcolm Canmore, had a residence upon it. The ruins of walls of considerable thickness were recently to be traced upon it. In a south-west direction from the Inch, there runs in the loch a paved road or causeway, which extends for some length, and may be seen from the margin when the water is low* The Castle of Forfar stood on a round hill to the north of the town, and must have been surrounded with water. The castle was destroyed in 1307. In that year King Robert Bruce pro- ceeded from Aberdeen to Angus, and here new success awaited him in the capture of the Castle of Forfar, at this time strongly garrisoned by the English. It was taken by escalade during the night by a soldier named Philip the Forester of Platen, who put all the English to the sword, and the King, according to his usual policy, instantly commanded the fortifications to be destroyed. Many of those unhappy individuals who were charged with witch- craft were brought to trial in Forfar, by a special commission ap- pointed by the Crown in 1661. The record of these trials was preserved, and contained many curious statements; but it has re- cently been amissing. The following fact is duly entered in the council minutes : that John Ford, a witch- pricker, was sent for ta prick witches at Forfar, and was admitted as a burgess on the same day with Lord Kinghorn. The bridle which was placed in the mouths of the witches condemned to be burned, and with which they were fastened to the stake, is preserved in the burgh. It has already been stated, that the date of the original charter of the burgh is unknown, but it was a burgh before the reign of Robert Bruce, as the authorities of Forfar gave evidence during his reign that Dundee was a royal burgh, and had right of guildry and trade. The original charter of the burgh was lost in 1657.^ * The spire of the priory, and part of the walla of the priory and ol the chapel are »tiU standing. 696 FORFARSHIRE. In that year Dundee was taken by the EngKsh, and a detachmeDi was sent to Forfar, who broke open the prison, pillaged the town, and burned all its charters and records. lo 1665, a charter of navodamus was granted by Charles IL And honourable mentioD is made, in enumerating the privileges conferred on the bui^, of theconduct of Provost Strang in protesting in Parliament, in 1647, against the delivery of the King's person to the English. The records of the town-council, which are preserved, begin with the year 1660. Mansion Houses. — The only mansion-house in the parish is Lower. It was built by one of the Earls of Northesk ; and tlie present family of Carnegie of Lower and Turin are descendants from him. Land'Owners. — These, with their respective valuations, are as follows : The Proprietor of Lower, . • Hawkins of Restennet, Charles Gray, Esq. ofCarse, General Hunter of Burnsid«» Trustees of A. Greenhill, Esq. of Craignathroi Do. Mrs Knigbt of Halkerton, J. Arnot, Esq. of Pitreuchie, J. Anderson, Esq. of Clockbriggs, J. Watt, Esq. of Meat hie, , B. Graham, £«q. of Littlemill, . Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers consist, l^f, of the register of baptisms. It begins in 1659, and continues till 1715. 2dj Minutes of session, beginning 1691, and continuing to 1715. In 1717, registers of both descriptions just noticed are begun, and continued to the present time. Public Buildings, — There is a town and county-hall situated in the centre of the town, and in the same building, for the present, is the jail for both civil and criminal prisoners, which has been declared wholly inadequate and unsuitable for carrying into opera- tion the new system of prison discipline. Not many years ago, the proprietors in the county applied for and obtained an act of Parliament for erecting a sheriff-court-house, sheriff clerk's of- fices, record and jury-rooms, &c. which were erected at an expense of nearly L.5000. They are commodious and handsome. They are situated in the centre of the town. Ground has been purchased for the erection of a new prison, a little to the north of the town, on the property belonging to the burgh, and the work is com- menced. L.786 . 444 2 10 d27 9 6 . 233 6 8 233 6 8 . 233 6 8 100 . 100 66 13 4 . 66 13 4 L.2590 19 "o rOHKAR. 697 III. — Population. The population of the parish of Forfar was, in 1 785, ... 2450 1790, - - - 4755 1800, . • . 5165 1811, ... 5562 1831, . . . 7549 1841, ParIiameotat7 burgh, 7960 1 ^eaT Parish, exclusive of 1618$''^' Of this number, 7363 reside in the old parish, and 2224 in the quoad sacra parish of St James. In the old parish, the number of families is 1044; in St James's parish, 272. IV. — Industry. The great proportion of the population of Forfar is employed in the linen manufacture trade. The fabrics generally made in Forfar are, slieetings, Osnaburghs, and dowlas.' About 3000 in- dividuals are employed in weaving. The number of webs wrought in the week is about 2000. The present depressed wages are, for sheetings, 8s. per web ; Osnaburghs, 7s. ; dowlas, 88. Out of this sum the weaver has to pay about Is. 6d. for winding. V. — Parochial Economy. Town, — The town of Forfar consists of two principal streets, the one proceeding from east to west, and the other from the cross to the north. The great road from Perth to Aberdeen passes through the town, entering at the west and passing out by the north. There are several smaller streets, and the town was ra- pidly increasing in population ' and extent until the depression in the staple trade of the district, which has continued for some years, has checked the progress of building. Within the last forty years the aspect of the town has much improved. Before that time the general appearance of the buildings was mean, many of them being covered with thatch, and outside stairs and other projections upon the streets were numerous. But now, the houses are substantially built, and there are many of a superior description ; and the streets are open, and all projections into them removed. Railway. — The greatest recent improvement connected with Forfar and its neighbourhood has been the construction of the railway between Forfar and Arbroath. The terminus at Forfar is at the north of the town, about five minutes' walk from the cross. It proceeds through the parishes of Forfar, Rescobie, Guthrie, and St Vigeans, to Arbroath. The whole length of the line is 15 miles, 2 furlongs, and 38 yards.* The work was completed and opened for the conveyance of goods and passengers on the 3d of January 1 839. * The inclination on the line is 196 feet, the terminus at Forfiir being ihut much above the terminus at Atbroath, 698 FORFARSHIRE.' GENERAL ACCOUNT or the RECEIPTS akd DISBURSEMENTS or L.2,159 19 15,938 1 50,475 8 22,608 9 8,046 526 15 626 5 Dr, ExrsNoiTUKB. To Formation of Road, &&, viz. :— Expense of obtaining bill, in- cluding engineering up to dng of Act, Properties purchased, Earth and ttone-worky Rails account. Stone blocks. Damage to tenants, . Fencing and draining. Engineering since passing of Act, 2,81 7 1 1 Depots and stations, . 7,498 9 Locomotive engines, waggons, and coaches, Miscellaneous expens^ includ- ingintereston borrowed money & feu-duties, up to opening of line, business accounts, kct OflBce- furniture, Machinery of work-shops, in- cluding steam-engine, &c. Utensils, Expense of obtaining new Act, STOCK ACCOUNT. 1840. 1841. S 5 74 1 7 8 5 10 L.22S 7 749 18 121 195 130 1,142 17 11 3 5 4 84 4 2 11 3,776 9 104 Total. L.2,150 19 S 16,161 8 9 51,225 I 6 22,730 7 I 9^1 II 5 656 18 9 1,768 11 7 2,317 II 5 11,274 19 84 11,005 4 14 2347 12 94 13,852 16 II 4,807 40 7 84 8 42 10 6 290 2 87 5 420 67 11 500 10 II 5,097 10 74 11 127 6 7 L.121,092 4 1 L.10,552 12 44 64 ^ 5 L. 131,644 16 6 420 44 67 11 64 543 1 To Sundries for stock on hand, &c. viz. .— Road to harbour, part of which has to be paid by the Dundee and Arbroath Railway Company, . . . . 189 19 1 Horses, . . . . 55 6 Road metal, . 26 19 114 Kirriemuir road, ..... 220 2 74 Rents outstanding, . • . 32 14 8 Oil account for oil on hand, . . . . 121 15 O4 Wood do. wood do. . . 200 6 94 Iron do. iron do. 757 7 II4 Goods do. railway dues outstanding, . . . 174 3 5 Parcels account outstanding, . . 4 5 2 Sundries do. do. .... 132 2 2 TRAFFIC ACCOUNT. Dr. EXPENDITITRE. To Coke and coals, 15th Ap. 1840 to 15th Ap. 1841, L.1,152 538 196 196 385 224 107 6 L. 138,559 13 I04 1 04 Railway maintenance, . . . 538 9 54 Oil & grease for carriages, waggons, & engines, 196 10 I4 Incidental charges, receipt stamps, &c. . 196 6 6 Locomotive- Engine Repairs, . . 385 15 9 Waggon repairs, . . . 224 4 04 Coach do., . . . 107 9 94 Utensils do., . . .651 Salaries to manager, treasurer, elks, station keepers, 735 13 8 Keep of horses, and wages to men working them, 129 8 8 Porterage and labourage, . . 208 15 6 Printing, advertising, and stationery, . 138 7 94 Police and watching, . 53 5 3 Passenger duty, 200 Feu-duty, Interest on borrowed money, L.206 2,199 4 7 7 9 Surplus revenue undivided since opening of Uc\e,a« abo^« «t&ud, 1^4,272 12 8 2,405 12 4 L.6,678 5 3.848 7 84 FORFAU. 699 ARBROATH and FORFAR RAILWAY COMPANY cr xo 15ru ApftiLl841. STOCK ACCOUNT. RccEirrs. Contra. Bj subscribed capital, 2,800 shares, «tL.25eadh, . L.70,000 Shares forfeited and unpaid, 5,913 10 L.64,086 10 New stock paid up, . • . 21,165 O Cf. Cash borrowed on cash accounts, bonds, bills, and due on open accounts, Surplus revenue undiYided, vis :— Previous to 15th April 1840, From 15th April 1840 io 15th April 1841, L.85,251 10 44,459 16 2 L.129,711 "6 2 1J44 18 5( 2,703 9 3 L.d,848 7 84 L. 133,559 13 10^ TRAFFIC ACCOUNT. By surplus revenue undivided last year. Revenue account, from 15th April 1840 to 15th April 1841 :— Goods, tons 68,052, . . L.5,226 8 6 Passengers, No. 106,574, . . 3,687 18 1 Parcels, . . . 229 10 8 Post-Office, . . 46 11 9 Contra. Cr, L.1,144 18 &\ Rents, Road-tickets, L.176 16 11 14 9 9,190 9 191 5 11 L.9,381 14 11 ArhroaithMth April \H^\. L. 10,526 13 44 Wm. JoHifS90ir,7faat»fvr. John Macdovald^ C(cTk« 700 FORFARSHIRE. The foregoing extract is from the last annual statement issued by the company. This abstract comprehends the stock account down to the date of the balance, and the traflSc account for the year, from the 15th of April 1840 to the 15th of April 1841. The outlay of every description on the railway and works, and machi* nery, amounts to L. 131,644, 16s. 6d. The revenue^ from the traffic, for the past year, amounts to L.9,190, 9s. exclusi?e of L.191, 5s. lid. received for rents, &c The gross expenditure} connected with the traffic and management, is Li.4,272, 12s. 8d., and the feu-duties and interest on debts amount to L.2,405, 12^. 4d., leaving a net surplus revenue or profit of L.2,708^ 9s, Sd. The whole expenses incurred in repairs of engines, waggons, and machinery, having been charged amongst the current expenditure, the reserved fund at last balance, which was L. 1,144, 18s. 5d., is carried to surplus revenue, and the surplus revenue, now undivided, is, therefore, L.3,848, 7s. 8d. The guaranteed dividend of 5 per cent, on the new stock paid up, must first be provided for. It amounts to L.628, 6s. 7d. ; and, this sum being deducted, there will remain L.d,2*20, Is. Id. to be divided among the holders of the original stock, — equal to a dividend of fully 5 per cent The directors mean to propose, that a dividend shall be declared at the rate of 3^ per cent., and that the balance be carried to reve- nue account, as a reserved fund. Whatever may be the result of this undertaking in a pecuniary point of view to the shareholders, it is a work which has been al* \ i ready beneficial to the community of Forfar, especially in the ar- ticle of fuel. It has opened a means of conveying the pavement from the quarries in Forfar and along the line of the railway, of wood - from the surrounding country, and of bringing from the coast coals and lime. The advantages to the public generally cannot as yet well be estimated, but they do owe a debt of gratitude to the share- holders and to the enlightened, active, and zealous gentlemen who have superintended and conducted the affairs of the Company, among whom W. F. Lindsay Carnegie, Esq. of Spynie and Boy- sack, deserves to be particularly noticed. Connected with this great improvement has been one of less magnitude, yet not altogether unimportant, viz. the formation of a turnpike road from Forfar to Kirriemuir. The state of this road was long a subject of complaint, but this ground of complaint has been removed. A good turnpike road has at length been formed ; and the communication between FORFAIU 701 Forfar and Kirriemuir has been rendered comfortable, and a wide Highland district thereby opened up. Ecclesiastical State. — The church of the old parish is situated in the town of Forfar, and is rather more than four miles from the roost distant houses in the parish. It was built in 1791 to accom- modate 2000 sitters. It was altered in the interior in 1836. By this alteration, the number of sittings was reduced to about 1800, but a great improvement was effected as to the facility of hearing. The church is a substantial building, though plain. In the interior it is commodious and elegant It has a steeple, which was erected in 1814. The steeple is a well-proportioned and handsome struc- ture, and forms one of the principal ornaments of the town. It -iias three bells, all of them the gift of a Mr Strang, merchant in Stockholm, (about the year 1650,) a native of For£ir. The church of St James was erected in 1836, at an expense of about L. 1200. It is seated for 1100 hearers. It is a neat and comfortable church. A district as a quoad sacra parish was allo- •cated to it by the Presbytery of Forfar. The present Episcopal chapel was erected in 1824. It is un- der the superintendence of the Bishop of Dunkeld. It accommo* dates 380 sitters. The United Secession meeting-house was erected about the year 1780. It accommodates 400. There is an Independent chapel in the town, which accooftmo- dates 400. It was erected in 1836. The old Mason Hall was recently purchased by some parties (not resident in Forfar) of the Roman Catholic communion, and there is occasional worship in it. The stipend of Forfar is 21 chalders of victual, half meal and lialf barley. The glebe was valued by the Ecclesiastical Commis- sioners at L.20. The present manse is a modern building. It is a large and commodious house. Education. — There are 14 schools in the parish; being 1 parochial school, 3 burgh schools, and 10 private schools. There is a deficiency in the means of education for the children of the labouring-classes. Their earnings are fiuch as to prevent them, in many cases, from paying for the education of their chil- dren, even low as the fees are. The magistrates and town-council have had this important subject under their consideration, and have purchased a site for the erection of a school in the west end of 702 FORFARSHIRE. the town, a locality where it will prove highly conveDient and be« neficial. The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary, with L.8 in lieu of a dwelling-house. One of the bui^h teachers has a sa- lary of L.40. The other two have school-rooms free of rent, but have no salary. Poor. — Up to the year 1840, the poor's funds of the burgh and those of the landward parish were under separate manage* ment ; but in that year an assessment having become indispen- sable for the relief of the poor of the parish, the distinction for- merly recognized and acted on was discontinued on the opinioii of eminent counsel, who were consulted on the point. Previous to that year, the poor bad been supported by the collections at the- church doors, rent of land raortiGed for the behoof of the poor, and voluntary subscriptions from the landward heritors for the poor of the landward part of the parish. The assessment for the first year was L.350. Last year it was L.700, and there is reason to believe it will go on increasing, in consequence of the depressed condition of trade. The assessment would have been imposed in this parish before the period referred to, had not the revenue from the land purchased by money mortified about 1650, by Mr Strang, merchant, Stockholm, afforded a considerable income for the relief of the burgh poor. There are 146 individuals or families on the monthly roll, who receive on an average 4s. per month. There are 19 on the weekly roll, receiving on an average 2s. per week. There are 14 inmates in the poor'^s house. The burgh is governed by a provost and two bailies. The town«council consists of 19 members. Forfar is united with Ar- broath, Bervie, Brechin, and Montrose in sending a representative to Parliament May 184a COUNTY OF FORFAR. This County is bounded by those of Aberdeen and Kincardine on the north ; the German Ocean on the east ; the county of Perth on the west ; and the Frith of Tay on the south. It is si- tuate between 56"^ 27 and 57^ north latitude, and between 2^ 28 and 3^ 22' west longitude. It is computed to contain 840 square miles, or 537,600 English acres, of which about 200,000 may be under cultivation. A great part of the surface of this county is occupied by that portion of the Grampians called the Benchennin Hills. South of these, and running parallel to them, is the inferior ridge of the Sidlaw Hills. The valley of Strathmore intervenes, extending 33 miles in lennrth, and from 6 to 8 in breadth. The valued rent of the county is L. 17 1,239, 16s. 8d. The annual value of real property, as assessed in 1815, was L.36 1,241 Scots. The real rent of lands in 181 1, was L.260,1 96, 15s. The county sends one member to Parliament. The constituency in 1841 amounted to 2162. Table showing the number of persons committed for trial, or bailed in the County of Forfar, for the year 1841 : — OfTences agaiiint the person, . . . 76 property, comunittcd with violeiicet • 29 without violuncc, 197 Malicious offences against property, . . .1 Forgery, and oflenccs against the currency, . 5 Other offences not included in the atx)vc, . . 26 a.33 rOKFAR. * * 704 FORFAR6HJEE. o a o O CO •c o oo cooo oo o o o o OOO •ii p^ oo ooco «o oo o o o»o ^^ 1 ^ = g = 23 '• 'i « c §2i^ '3S 'gS § 9 • A 1*^ O • • J O O w o o ^oo o i ^ : : : : : :^ a • 6 »'* • • • oi S *o©ioJ oS o • ■ • or^o • -sss • • • o £ 2j *s1 *s J 1-4 i >i J c &« C -J B s B c o k-4 ^H 2 1 o : ;S V u 'H i jj o / V J • ^ ■k ^55 jjJJZii-::if CO (R w u «; f> -a t9 • • • «^ Q -« 12 • CO — OD — "^S?— -_^ •OQ 'OQ 8|BnpiAipur gwOD ^ Q CO — C5 »0 JO 'P'lddS 00 it • 3 • • • ^^ 00^50 CI : ci 0(1 OQ s'lcnpiAipiij n)3uT9uo|3q S»T|IlU1I^»f § i : : '. ^ >-^ * :i> : : 00 8 II uoiinpdoj oo CI »^ 00 ^ OI «o> '■'0 Q "M — < C >> l> ff» »e5 X 3 ?| CO -^ »0 •?5 « o o "* r X 5l tiO 5" ^ t>» r» CO »o CI r 1^ -^ o O 'j3 ^ gpCl'-'OOOCiQ'^tQ C5 ciri^-^oo'jSQ fS I o c s o O FOHFAKSHIRE. T^ 1 ja 'IS CO PU o 3 3 bo c 'S 15 Q> J3 ■: S •s o B O •a 3 c O -a 3 c oo ■ '83 oco o ooo ooo o o sss 00 ^SS '3 '3 *S ' "SS if s ^s o 4 '♦Jo • ^ * 4 o o • fl • • • • • •• .••••••• , (7] ••••■ •• .••••••■ 00 ^ oo ><»o «8 oooo o o (OO oco o o oooo oooo oooooooo J o ooo t^O o oeoo^o oi g3SS!ooS a|S.-s.§ o oo •| ^ ^8 eoo o -fiOO o 3 c « S 3 O 8 e 1 ooooooo ooo^ooo ^^0*^^00 o oo :"*"*0'^'*oo :o :2® J _^ I OOOOOOO OOOOO CO ooooooo :00ooooo o oo e ;oo :o £2$2aa2 S2SS582 S 88 J . aej ui 8[ooqos oooooooo'^'*'*oooT^o ooooooooooo ooo'^ooO'*'*^'^0'*'^'*o^'«"*'aoo'*'^oO'^^^ e;§8S88a55S^55aSS3S5S3SS83!a88S5SS .^^ ;>-.«^^&|g? '^aj^V •OQ 'OQ BfgnpiAipni JO 'paoas si«npiAipu| 00 •8 • • • • •q J qBlsa o) 9ui^uo|3q ;% m iioiiBindoj r^3«o o5 Tt< — QD t* 5^i^- caiot*t^"^oooi^t^i^rr k u\o V" .11 »% \ INDEX. Abbey chapel of Arbroath, the, 95 Aberbrothock, see Arbroath Aberlemno, parish of, 626 Academy, the Arbroath, 102— the Dun- dee, 44— the Montrose, 285 Achranuic, the slug of, a cascade, 423, 637 Affleck, ruins of the castle of, 486 Agricultural association, the Easter For- farshire, 136, 41 1 — iroplements, prices of, 22, 60, 221, 365 Agriculture and rural economy, statistics of, 21,59, 70,87, 111,118, 125,135, 148, 181, 194, 201, 220, 237, 242, 253, 266, 279, 304, 317, 327, 347, 363, 380, 388, 404, 417, 429, 447, 463, 472, 481, 486, 499, 534, 550, 563, 583, 594, 608, 617, 623, 633, 639, 644. 652, 658, 660, 667, 682, 689, 697 Aikenhauld church, ruins of, 291, 302 Airlie, parish of, 670— castle, descrip- tion of, 670, 671, 679— its history, 676 — ^its destruction by Argyle, 677 — the modem house of, 681 — den of, 671— history of the family of, 174, 443 — Earl of, plantations by, 653 Aifthmithie, village of, 240 Alpine, King, defeat and death of, 16, 579 Anderson, Mr, bequest by, 50 — Rev. Mr, of Oathlaw, 802 Antiquities, 15,57, 77, 110, 133, 146, 176, 194, 199, 216, 236, 240, 251, 265, 313, 333, 343, 357, 386, 427, 445, 471, 476, 486, 532, 545, 559, 579, 593, 605, 615, 622, 630, 643, 651, 657, 660, 665, 679, 689, 693 Arbikie, tumulus of, 326 Arbirlot, parish of, 332 Arbroath, parish of, 74 — Abbey, history and description of, 77 — its revenues, 79 — town of, its public buildings, 80 — population and its character, 82, 84 — manufactures and shipping, 87 — it«» history, 88— civic constitution, 89 — harbour, roads, &c., 91 — railways from, to Dundee, 561— to Forfar, 697 — its expense, revenue, &c., 698 — pavement, the, 370 Argyle, the Eari of, destruction of Air- lie and Forter castles by, 677 Arity water, the, 234 Arkley, Mrs, of Dunninald, school en- dowed by, 259 rORFAK. Arthur, King, supposed acene of his death, 146 Auchenreoch house, 666 Auchlishie, cave at, 17? Auchmithie, iisheries of, 513 — village of, 498 Auchnacree bouse, 313 Auchranie, slugs of, a caacade, 423, 637 Auchterhouse, parish of, 648 — bum, 649 — mansion-house and its history, 650 — village of, 652 Auchterlony, Baillie, bequest b]^280— see also Ochtcrlony Auchtertyre, village of, 559 Auldbar cai>tle, 627, 628 Back-boath, ruins of church at, 357 Bachnagairn, waterfall of, 437 Baikie castle, ruins of, 680L~house, 681 — moss, 673 Baldowric, Danish monument at, 643-* house, 644 Baldovie house, 616 Balecraig castle, ruins of, 559 Balfour castle, ruins of, 615 Balgaies loch, 142 Balgavies castle, ruins of, 607 — house, 628— loch, 240, 627 Balgay, hill of, 5 — Pictish remains at, 17 Ballinshoe house, ruins of, 178 Boliol, surrender of, to Edward I. at Montrose, 275 Ballandarg burn, 338 — house, 178 Bulluntyne, Rev. John, 543 — house, 561 Balloch moss, 163 Ballownie. Druidical remains at, GG5 Ballumbic castle, ruins of, 593— liou^e, Balmadies, ancient burial-place at, G07 — house, 608 Balmashanar, hill of, 692 Bal merino abbey, remains of, 547 Baliiaboth house, 178 Balnamoon house, 657 — the laird of, treachery, of at the battle of Brechin, 529 Balnello wood, 124 Balruddcry, fossil remains found in the Den of, 569, 575— house, 578 Balshandie, loch, 456 Bandirran house, 644 Banks, various, in Dundee, 38 Bannatyne house, 561 Barnhill, village of, 549 Barnsdale castle, site of, 602 3 A 708 FORFARSHIRE. Barrie, parish of, 659— relics of the bat- tle of, 357— vUlage of, 660 Barryhill, fort on, 297 Bas-Alpine, death of King Alpine at, 16 Battle Drum wood, cairns and well at, 399 Battle Dykes, Roman camp of, 297, 694 Battock, mount, 191, 664 Beaton, Cardinal, 79, 628— martyrdom of Walter Mill by, 324 Beech, remarkable, at Main*s castle, 59 Beechwood house, 641 Bellaty, ancient coins found at, 428 Bell rock lighthouse, the, 92 Benchennin hills, 703 Benvie bum, 576 — annexed parish of, 568— pear, 584 Berkley, Walter de, 241 Berryittiirhead, quarries of, 692 Bequests, various, to Dundee, 50 Birkhill, village of, 586 Bishop's loch, drainage of the, 75 Black Dykes, Roman camp at, 694 Blackgate of Pitscandly, monumental stones at, 605 Black Jack, ruins of castle of, 251 Blacklaw hill, 461 Blair, Dr, 14— mount, 422 Blaimo, Druidical circle at, 689 Blight, ravages of, in Airlie, 685 Bloody butts, the, G07 Boat, ancient, found in Kinnordy, 178 Boath, hill of, 354 — Druidical remains on, 357 Boddin point, 246 Boece, Hector, birth-place of, 14 — con- nection of, with Panbride, 68 Bolshan castle, site of, 397— hill of, 303 — history of the property of, 395 — improvements on it, 405 Bonitown, village of, 652 Bonnjtown castle, ruins of, 116 Botany, 6, 68, 116, 132, 170, 193, 235, 248, 273, 294, 313, 340, 355, 385, 413, 426, 439, 525, 576, 601, 613, 642, 665, 674, 692 Bothie System, disadvantages of the, 58, 2G2, 888. 619— as in Norway con- trasted with the Scotch, 483 Boulders, remarkable, in Liif, 575 Boiu'iefad, village of, 152 Bower, Mr, of Kincaldrum, 217 BractuUo, stone-coffins found at, 386 Braky castle, 396 Brany loch, 436— water, 192 Breadalbane, Marquis of, 323 Brechin, parish of, 129— battle of, 529 — castle, 134 — siege of it by Edward HI., 131-:-cathedral, 133— town of, 137 — its public buildings, 133 — ma- nufactures in, 136 Bridges, see Rottds Bridgcton house, 496 Brigton, burial- plaiw of the fiunily of, 216— hill, 206— bouse, 218 Broom, introduction of the, into Feam, 319 Brothodc water, 74, 75, 493 Broughty, ruins of chapel at» 541— castle, ruins and history att 547 — Ferry, village of, 40, 549, 552— ^vootf sacra parish of, 554 Brown, George, bequest by, 50— Dr John, bequest by, ib. Bruce, Robert, capture of Forfiff castle by, 695— Rev. Robert, 924 Buckie, den of, 321 Burg, hill of, 129 Bumside, hill of, 597— house, 608 Caanlochin, valley of, 421 Cadgerton, old village of, 549 Cairns in Aberlemno, 630 — in Barrie, 660 — in Careston, 532 — in Cannylie, 357— in Forfar, 694— in Kettins, 643 — in Kingoldrum, 615 — in Kinnell, 399— in Lethnot, 689— in Stricka- throw, 666 Cairn Conan, hill of, 491 Cairn Greg, tradition regarding, 546 Camp castle, remains of. 606, 632 Camps, ancient, in Carmylie, 358— on the Law of Dundee, 16-— in Newtyle, 559— in Strickathrow, 663 — Ronuui, in Airlie, 679— in Careston, 532 — in Finhaven, 297 — in Forfar, 694— in Glammiss, 346— in Guthrie, 471 — in Invcrurity, 236— in Kettins, 643— in Liff, 579— in Mains, 57 Camperdown, Admiral Viscount, birth- place of, 14, 457, 459, 579— Eari of, plantations formed by, 653 — mansion- house of, 577 — plantations round it, 576 — paintings in, 577 — gardens, 584 Campmuir, Roman camp at, 643 Camus* stane, and its origin, 357, 486 Canoe, ancient, found at Kinnordy, 178 Carald, a Danish general, death of, 518 — his supposed burial-place, 532 Carbuddo, district of, 469, 470 -chouse, 470— Roman camp at, 236 Cardean, Roman camp at, 679 Careston, parish of, 518 — castle, 529, 532 — antiquities in it, 533 Carmichacl, Mr, mortification by, 104 Carmylie, parish of, 351 — quarry, 353 -well, 352 Carneggy of Balnamoon, family of, 529 — Sir Alexander, 528 Carnegie, Dean, bequest by, 1 13 — James of Finhavni, trial of, for the murder of the p:ari of Strathniore, 301— Sir INDEX. 709 James, of Southesk, ] 10 — school en- dowed by, 410 Carnoustie, quoad sacra parish of, 661, 662— village of, and ancient camp at it, 660 Carrity water, 165, 612 Carrot hill, 235 Carse house, 608 Carsegowrie house, 626, 628 — stone- coffins found at, 680 Castle Naime, artificial mound at, 476 Caterthun, Danish forts on the, 297, 657 Cathie loch, 326 Catlawhill, 159,611 Cattle, see Live- Stock Caves, artificia], in Airlie, 679 — in Auchterhouse, 651 — in Kettins, 643 in Liff, 581 — Natural, in Kirriemuir, 177—in St Vigeans, 491 Chance Inn, 243 Chapel of Keillor, village of, 560 Chapel Dockie, ruins of, 542 Chapels in Cortachy, ruins of various, 445 — at Backboath, 357 — Dissenting, see Dissenters Chapelries and chapels, various, in Ket- tins, 643 Chapelton of Inverkeillor, ruins of old church at, 241 — of Rescobie, ancient burial-place at, 607 Charleston, village of, 347 Charlton, plantations at, 274 Charters, ancient, relating to Montrose, 271 Chcsterpark, site of Roman camp at, 559 Chestnut tree, remarkable, at Finhaven castle, 294 Christie, Mr, bequest by, 290 Churches, see Ecclesiastical statistics Civic constitution of Dundee, the, 1 Civil history, see History Claverhouse, site of the mansion-house of, 56 Climate, see Meteorology Clova, ruins of the castle of, 446— church of, 462 — valley of, 435 Coal, attempt to procure, in Finhaven, 294 Coins, ancient, found in Glenisla, 428 —in Kinnell, 398— in Monifieth, 546 Collace of Balnamoon, treachery of, at the battle of Brechin, 529 Collessie, John, of Balnamoon, 314 Collieston, flax-mill of, 51 1 Colmellie, Druidical circle at, 623 Colvill, Mr, bequests by. 102, 104, 616 Commerce of Dundee, the, 33 ■Conansythe house, 358 Conghoillis, see Inverkeillor Constable, Mr, bequest by, 50 Convent, Franciscan, at Dundee, site of, 12 Cookstone, moss of, 673 Cooper, Mr, bequest by, 290 — George, bequest by, 669 Corbie*s knowe, the, 325 Cortachy and Clova, united parishes of, 434 — castle, 200, 446— plantations at, 440 — ancient tombstones near, 445 Coryvannoch well, 422 Cossins, castle of, 345 Cotton of Lownie, village of, 152 Coventry, Dr, his principle of rent, 644 Cowgate port of Dundee, the, 17 Craichy, village of, 152 Craig, parish of, 244 — castle, ruins of, 251 — house, destruction of^ by the Eari of Argyle, 677 Craigendowie, Druidical circle at, 689 Craighead, William, 556 Craignatbro, quarries of, 692 Craigo, tumuli on the I^ws of, 265 — spinning mills, &c. of, 267 Craig Owl hill, 378 Cranyard hiU, 612 Crawford, the Earl of, feud betweprr, and the Ogilvies, 299, 397— the first Earl of, 528 Crew well, the, 559 Crichton of Ruthven, family of, 415 Crimie, statistics of, in Forfarshire, 703 Crombie, burn of, 612 Crosston, village of, 629 Cruickshanks, William, the originator of Temperance Societies, 47 Cruik water, the, 31 1, 664 Culdees, establishment of the, in Moni- fieth, 541 Currachs founded in Kirriemuir, 178 Dalbog, Druidical circle at, 623 Dalchallie, valley of, 421 Dallas, Rev. Alexander, 401 Danes, defeat of the, at Aberlemno, 63} Danish fort on Caterthun, 297, 657 — monument at Baldowrie, 643 Dean water, the, 837, 338, 475, 691 Dempster, George, Esq., of Dunnichen, 14, 147 Den of Airlie, the, 671 — of Lethanr, ancient graves at, 147 Denhead, village of, 586 Den mil n, village of, 586' Dennyfem castle, ruins of, 689 Denoon castle, ruins of, 297 — remains of ancient fort at, 345 — bum of, 388 Deuchar of Deuchar, family of, 315 — house, 313 Dcvorgilla, foundation of a convent in Dundee by, 12 Dichmountlaw, hill of^ 491 7»a FORFARSHIRE^ Digbty water, 54, 55, 456, 539, 648, 64ft Diseases, prevalent, in Arbroath, 83— in Craig, 246 — in Dundee, 2 — ^in Kin- nettles, 208 — in Kirriemuir, 164 — in Montrose, 272 Dispensary, the Brechin, 140 — the Mon- trose, 287 Dissenters and dissenting chapels, 43, 63, 72. 96, 113, 127, 138, 154, 185, 196, 203, 227, 238, 243, 259, 269, 285, 307, 329, 335, 373, 391, 409, 432, 467, 474, 487, 515, 538, 555, 562, 587, 588, 595, 609, 625, 634, 640, 654, 658, 661, 668, 686, 701 Doig, Dr, birth-place of, 556 Doll, glen of the, 439 Don, the botanist, 531, 674 Donald VII., death of, 673 Dores, castle of, its site, 643 Double hill, the, 597 Douglas, Catherine, heroism of, 593 — Gawin, bishop of Dunkeld, 79 — Lord James, sailing of, from Montrose, 276 —James, of Cavers, donations by, for libraries, 260, 392 Douglastoun, village of, 225— spinning mills of, 224 Downie hills, the, 485 Downie park house, 199 Draining, 61, 112, 222, 449, 499, 594, 639, 667, 683 Drummie house, 608 Dronly, burn of, 649 — viUage of, i6. 652 Druidical circles in Auchterhouse, 651 —in Carmylie, 357— Edzcll, 623— Feam, 313, 314— Kingoldrum, 615— Lethnot, 689— Liff, 579— Stricka- tbrow, 665 Drumcoth law, 314 Dnimmietermon, viUage of, 152 Urummond of Hnwthomden, anecdote of, 173 Dnimsturdy, village of, 549 Dudhopc, Viscount, 13 Dun, parish of, 123 — house, 125 Dun*8 dish, loch of, 124 Dunbarrow hill,^ and ruins of fort on it, 142 Duncan, Admiral, 579— birth-place of, 14^onnection of, with Lundie, 457 — bis conduct at CampcrdoMTi, 459 — Sir WiUiam, M. D., 460 Dundee, town of, 1— its situation, ib — climate, &c., 2— its history, 6 — origin of its manufactures, 7— its police cs- ttiblishment, 8 — gas company, 9 — its boundaries and civic constitution, 10 ^ancient documents relating to, 12 — eminent men connected with, 13 — nn- *J%uitics 15— public buildings of, 17 — population, 18— tlieir character, 20 -^manufactures of, 24 — shippiDg be- longing to, 30 — improvement of its harbour, a6.— 4ts exports, and imports, 33 — ^fishing and shipping compasies connected with, ■ 94 — miscellaiieoiii manufactures, 38 — banks and bran* ches, t6. —amount of taxes paid bj, ib. — markets, 39 — means of commmii* carion, 40— chorches, 41— religious and charitable societies, 43 schoob in, 44 — literary and sdentific^institutioBs, 46 — newspapers published in, 48— in- firmary and lunatic asylum, s6.— cfaa. ritable bequests and institutions, 50— jail, 51— general observations on, 53 —comparison of its present, with its condition in 1791, 53— railways from, to Arbroath, 553— and Newtyle, 40, 63, 561, 565, 653 Dunhead in Carmylie, the, 358 DAnlappie, annexed parish of, 662 Dunninaldhill, 246 — house, 252— wood, 250 Dunnichen, parish of, 142 — ^hill, 597 remains of old fort on it,.* 142^ — quar- ries on it, 144 — bouse, 142 — loch,146 Duntaw, hill of, 1 Durham, Mr, of Grange, 543 Durward, Sir Alhm, 638 Dye water, the, 663, 664, 688— en- croachments of» 663 Dysurt, history of the property of, 117 East Forfarshire Agricultural Associa- tion« the, 136, 411 East haven, village of, 70, 71 East mains of Dunnichen, battle at the, 146 Easter Ogle house, 200 Ecclesiastical history, see History^sta- tistics, 41, 63, 72, 93, 112, 120, 126, 138, 152, 185, 196, 202, 226, 238, 243, 258, 268, 284, 306, 319, 329, 334, 348, 372, 381, 390, 408, 419^ 431, 451, 465, 473, 483, 487, 514, 537, 554, 566, 586, 595, 609, 613^ 624, 634, 640, 646, 654, 658, 661, 668, 686, 690, 701— general, for the county, 704 Education, statistics of, 44, 63, 72, 100, 101, 113, 121, 127, 139, 155, J86, 196, 203, 227, 238, 244, 259, 269, 285, 808, 319, 329, 335, 349, 373, 382, 391, 410, 420, 432, 453, 467> 474, 484. 487, 516, 538, 566, 588, 595, 610, 618, 625, 635, 640, 646, 655, 658, 661, 668, 686. 690, 701 Edward, Rev. Robert, 592 — account of Dundee by, 6 — and of Panbride, 68 Edzell, parish of, 621 —castle, ruins of, 622— its history, 623— village of, 624 INDEX. 711 Effock water, 19*2 Eglismonichty, site of chapel of, 541 Ellenertowii, village of, 179, 185 Elliot or Eliot water, 322, 852 Erskine of Dun, family of, 123— -oppres- sive government of Montrose by, 276 — the Reformer, 543 — his birth-place, 278— bequest by, 290 Eassie and Nevay, united parishes of, 475 Esk loch, 436— North, river, 192, 264 South, river, 1 10, 1 15, 165, 198, 246, 257, 292, 436, 519, 520-.waterfa]l on, 437 Estates of Scotland, meeting of the, at Arbroath, in 1320, 75 Ethie house, 241 Echiebeaton, ruins of church of, 542 Ethiehaven, village of, 242 Exports of Arbroath, 88— of Dundee, 24,.33— of Montrose, 281 Factories of St Vigeans, statistics of the, 501 — morals, health, &c. of the work- ers, 503 Fairs and markets, 39, 62, 64, 107, 120, 127, 137, 141, 151, 189,225, 270, 281, 306, 336, 876, 411, 438, 454, 468, 490, 610, 625 Fairy hillock, 358 Falfeamie, burn of, 436 Fall, Captain, attack on Arbroath by, 76 Farm buildings, state of, 23, 61, 112, 136, 182, 223, 242, 254, 266, 318, 328, 368, 381, 389, 430, 449, 478. 482, 536, 584, 594, 616, 640, 684, 690 Famell, parish of, 109 Feam, parish of, 311 Feredeth, King, supposed burial-place of, 605 Ferguson, Mr, bequest by, 50 Fern, see Fearn Ferryden, fishing village of, 255 Finhaven, parish of, 291— hill of, 298— vitrified fort on, 295— ruins and his- tory of the castle of, 298— history of the property of, 301— improvements on it, 305— remarkable chestnut in, 294 Fin try, old village of, 549 Fisheries, herring, 514— salmon, 36, 75, 112, 116, 1*20, 126, 243, 254, 264, 536, 551, 625, 661, 664 — sea, 70, 126,242,255,513,553 Fithie, loch of, 691,^93— water, 378 Flax, importation of, into Dundee, 25, 27— miUs, in Arbirlot, 383— in Glam- roiss, 848 — in Montrose, 280 — in Pan- bride, 71 — in St Vigeans, 501 Flemmington castle, 629 FofTarty, ruins of Roman Catholic cha- pel at, 216 Ford, John, a witch pricker, 695 Ford, Mr, of Finhaven, improvements by, 292— shaft sunk for coal by, 29a 294 Fordyce, Dr James, 182 Forfar, parish of, 691— castle of, and its history, 693— loch of, a*}8. 691— town of, 667— its situation, 692— his- tory, 693, 695— buildings, 696— popu- lation,^97 — railii'ay from, to Arbroath, ib — its expense, revenue, &c. 698 Forfarshire, general renoarks on, 708 its ecclesiastical statistics, 704— «gri. cultural association, 136, 411 Formal, bill of, 686 Fort, vitrified, on Finhaven hill, 295 Fortar castle, ruins and history of, 427 — its destruction by the Earl of Ar- gyle, 677 Forthill, remains of fort on, 548— of Dun, the, 123 Fossil remains found in Airlie, 672 in Glammiss, 342— in Liff, 569, 575—. in Rescobie, 599 Fotheringham, family of, 593— hill, 285 — house, ib, Fowlis, parish of, 460 — ruins of the cas- tle of, 461 — antiquity of the church of, 466 Franciscan convent of Dundee, «te of, 12 Fraser of Kinkell, family of, d95 Frazer, Mr, bequest bpr, 290 Friockheim, village of, 887, 890^^oa^ sacra parish of, 890 Frouchmcnt, village of, 218 Fuel, 52, 64, 107, 114, 122, 128, 141, 157, 189, 197, 205, 229, 261, 270, 290, 809, 376, 382, 892, 411, 420, 483, 454, 468, 475, 557, 567, 596, 610, 619, 641, 687, 690 Fuirdstone tower, remains of, 519 Gagie house, 593 Gallowhill of Ethiebeaton, 546— of Kin- nell, 399— of Lunan, 325— of Ruth* ven, 413 Gai'dens at Camperdown, the, 584 Gardyne, artificial mound at, 886 — ^ruins of castle of, ib, — Misses, bequests by, 392 Garie water, the, 165 Gas works of Dundee, 8 Gateside, supposed Roman camp at, 582 Geary pot, thi*, 492 Geckie, Alexander and John, bequests by, 647 Geology and mineralogy, 8, 56, 68, 75, 180, 148, 160, 192, 199, 209, 240, 247, 273, 293, 812, 882, 889, 840, 352, 878, 884, 418, 415, 424, 487, 457, 475, 485, 495, 520, 540, 569, 591, 597, 612, 627, 6«2, «4ft, «^ 671,688,692 7 12 FOUFARSHIRF. Gibson, Mrs, douution by, to Dundee, 51 Gigbty water, 394 Gilcbrist, family of, 593, 678 Gillebrede, ancestor of the Ogilvies, 443 Gillies, family of, 315 — Collin, Esq. 531— Dr John, the historian, 132, 53! — Lord, ib. Glack of Newtyle, the, 558 Glammiss, parish of, 337 — burn, 338 — castle, history and ruins of, 343 — plantations on the estate of, 684 — Fillage of, 348 — railway from, to New- tyle, 686 Glass, Mr, founder of the Glassites, 379 Glassmile mountain, 422 Glegg, James, 14 Glen of Ogilvie, property of, 346 Glenbrichty, valley of, 421 Glenisla, parish of, 421 Glenlogy water, 165 Glenmarkie bum, 421 Glenoig water, 165 Glenprosen, hills of, 159 Glenquiech house, 200 Glesterlaw, urns, &c. found at, 399 — fair held at, 411 Goldman, Mr, birth-place of, 14 Gorrie^ Mr, on the destruction of the wheat fly, 170 Gory castle, 490 Govan hiU« 246 — plantations on, 250 Gowansbank, village of, 498 Grahame of Fintry, family of, 56 — Mr, improvements by, 60 — of Morphie, family of, 178 — James, Marquis of Montrose, 278 — Sir John, the friend of Wallace, 178 — Miss, bequest by, 289 Grahame*s Knowe, tradition regarding, 559 Grampian mountains, the, 191,311,312, 337, 383, 435, 688 Grange house, 548 — of Airlie, fossil re- mains found at, 672 — of Conan, ruins of chapel at, 490 Gravel pits in Kirriemuir, 162 Gray of Fowlis,. family of, 462 — Rev. Robert, 622 — mansion-house of, 577 — remarkable trees at it, 576 Greenhill of Burnstde, the, 597 Greg, a Scottish chief, burial-place of, 546 Gregory castle, 490 Guthrie, parish of, 469 — hill, ib, — cas- tle of, 470, 471 Guthrie of Guthrie, family of, 470 — bishop, 401 — Mr, bequest by, 50 — Rev. WUliam, 132 Guynd, mineral spring of, 352 — ancient camp at, 358 — house, ib. Haer Faads, Roman camp of, 236, 694 Hair cairn, the, 486 Hallyburton, family of, 643 — Lord Dou- glas Gordon, improvements by, 642 —James, 13 — bequests by him, 50, 647 — mansion-house of, 641, 644 Hanton, Mr, bequest by, 307 Harbour of Arbroath, 513 — of Dundee, improvements on, 30 Harvey, John Inglis, of Kinnettles, 215 Hatton, ancient coins found at, 398 — castle, history and ruins of, 559-— hill, 558 Hawkins, James, Esq., 154 Hayston hill, Roman camp at, 346 Hemp, quantity of, manufactured in Dundee, 25, 27 Henry, David, birth-place of, 581 — Mr, bequest by, 187 Herring fisheries, see Fisheries HiU of KeiUor, viUage of, 559 Hillocks, Mr, improvements by, 292 HUton Uw, 314 « History, CivU, 6, 56, 68, 75, 110, 116, 124, 131, 146, 193, 199, 214, 236, 240, 250, 264, 295, 313, 322, 333, 343, 355, 379, 386, 394, 415, 427, 443, 457, 462, 470, 476, 486, 497, 527, 541, 559, 577, 592, 602, 614, 621, 627, 638, 643, 650, 656, 659, 665, 676, 689, 693— Ecclesiasticsl, 41, 57, 94, 152, 202, 355, 400, 419, 497, 541, 588, 629, 643, 656 Holly hedge at Cortachy castle, 441 Horticultural society of Dundee, the, 36, 37 Hospital of Dundee, the, 50— of Maison Dieu, 133, 140 Hurly Hawkin castle, site of, 580 Husbandry, systems of, 23, 24, 60, 70, 87, 112, 118, 125, 135, 149, 181, 195, 201, 220, 237, 242, 254, 266, 280, 304, 317, 318, 328, 366, 380, 888, 406, 430, 449, 464, 500, 564, 583, 594, 617, 639, 667, 682, 689 Hydrography, 2, 55, 68, 74, 1 10, 130, 146, 192. 198, 208, 240, 246, 264, 292, 310, 332, 338, 352, 378, 384, 394, 413, 422, 436, 456, 520, 569, 591, 597, 611, 627, 636, 649, 663, 664, 688 Hynd castle, ruins of, 486 Idvies, law at, 386 Imports into Arbroath, 88— Dundee, 24, 27, 33— Montrose, 281 Improvements in Airlie, 682 — in Auch- terhouse, 652 — suggested, in Kinnet- tles, 231 — obstacles to, 232 Inch of Forfar, ruins on the, 695 Inchbare, village of, 668 Inchbrayock, ancient titularity of, 245— house, 250, 252 INDEX. 713 Infirmary, the Dundee, 48— the Mon- trose, 287 Ingliston house, 218 Innes, Mrs, bequest by, 289 Inns and alehouses and their effects, 52, 64, 73, 107, 114, 128, 141, 157, 189, 197, 229, 239, 261, 270, 290, 309, 336, 376, 382, 392, 411, 420, 433, 454, 468, 475, 557, 567, 590, 596, 610, 641 Inshewan house, 200 Inverarity, parish of, 234 Inverbrothock, district of, 490 Invereighty, burial-place of the family of, 216— house, 218 Invergowrie, suppressed parish of, 568 •—bum of, 569 — church, history, and ruins of, 581 — house, 578 Inverkelllor, parish of, 239 — village of, 241 Invermark, ruins of the castle of, 194 Inverquharity, braes of, 159 — castle, 200 — history of the family of, 200 Ironshill of Lunan, the, 325 Irrigation in Kirriemuir, 182 Irvine of Drum, 333 Isla water, the, 413, 421, 423,637, 671, 691— waterfalls on, 423, 637 Ivory, Sir James, birth-place of, 15 Jail of Arbroath, 106— of Brechin, 140 — of Dundee, 51 — of Kirriemuir, 189 James the Pretender, departure of, from Montrose, 277 Jamieson, David, bequest by, 329 Jeffrey, Grizzel, execution of, for witch- craft, 13 Johnstone, Rev. Mr, bequest by, 139 Kaimes of Airlie, hills of the, 612 Keen, mount, 191 Keeny water, 192 Keillor, hill of, 558— village of, 559— water, 239 Kelly, ruins of the castle of, 333 — house, ib, Kemp castle, ruins of, 606, 632 Kepty hill, 496 Kerbet water, 208, 338 Kettins, parish of, 641 — village of, i6. Kilpurnic hill, 558, 560 Kilry, burn of, 425— hill of, 421 Kilsyth, services of the Ogilvies at the battle of, 175 Kincaldrum, hill of, 207, 235— ruins of old church at, 216 King's cross near Dundee, the, 16 — at Liff, 580— well in Newtyle, 559 Kingennie, ruins of church of, 542 Kingoldrum, parish of, 611 Kinloch, history of the family of, 175— Dr, 14 Kinnaird, annexed parish of, 109 — cas- tle, 1 10 Kinnell, parish of, 393 Kinnettles, parish of, 206— hill of, 207 — burial-place of the family of, 216 — house, 218 Kinnordy house, 178 — plantations at, 171— loch and moss of, 16^ 163, 165, 613 Kirkbuddo, district of, 469, 470 — house, 470 Kirkdcn, parish of, 383 KirkhiU of Kinnettles, the, 216 Kirktoun of Airlie, village of, 671 — of Auchterhouse, 652 — of Dunnichen, . 152— of Guthrie, 472— of Kingol- drum hill, 612— of Kinnettles, 225— remarkable spring at it, 208 — of Liff, 582,586 — of Newtyle,artificial mounds at, 559 Kirriemuir, parish of, 158 — liill, 159 — rocking and standing stones on it, 177 —town of, 179, 183, 184 Knap-o*ca8tle, ruins of, 325 Knock of Formal, hill of, 636 Lady well of Glenisla, the 422 Ladyloan, district of, 490 Laird, Admiral, improvements by, 60 Landerick, tumuli at, 679 Langley park house, 125 Language, see Population, character of Larch, injury sustained by the, from bUght, 686 Law of Dundee, the, 15 — remains of fort on, 16 Lawrence hill, 235 Laurenson, Colonel, plantations by, 235 Laws in Eassie, 476 — Feam, 314 — Kirkden,386— Tannadice, 199— man- sion-house of, 548 — vitrified fort on the hiU of, 545 Lead ore, veins of, in Glammiss, 341-^ in Lochlee, 192 Leaping ague, the, 164, 246 Leases, 23, 60, 112, 119, 136, 182, 195, 223, 237, 242, 254, 266, 304, 328, 334, 381, 389, 405, 430, 449, 473, 482, 487, 536, 564, 584, 617, 652, 690 Lednathie water, 165 Lee loch, 192 — water, ib, Legsland, pavement quarry of, 243 Leighton, Archbishop, 250 Lemno water, 293, 597, 626 Letham, ancient graves at, 1 47 — village of, 151 Letham grange, mansion house of, 496 Lethnot, ruins of chapel of, 445 Lethnot and Navar, united parishes of, 687 Libraries and literature, 46, 73, 104, 1 13 714 FOIIFARSHIRE. 121> 127, 156, 188, 197, 204, 244, 260, 269, 287, 808, 335, 348, 349, 374, 392, 410, 432, 453, 467, 474, 484, 488, 557, 566, 610, 619, 635, 669 Liff and Benvie, united parishes of, 568 Light-bouse, the Bell rock, 92 Linavey, spring of, 55 Lindertis house, 681 — plantations on the estate of, 684 Lindesay of Glenesk, family of, 622 Lindsay of Edzeil, family of, 621 Lindsays, feud of, with the Ogilnes, 76, 299, 397 Linen, manufactures in Dundee and ex- ports from it, 24, 25, 28 — ^in Kirrie- muir, 182 — ^in St Vigeans, 501 Linlathen, cairn at, 546— house, 548 Lintrathen, parish of, 637— loch, ib. — village, 640 Lintrose, artificial cave at, 643— house, 644 Live-stock, breeds and treatment of, 28, 70, 125,135, 150, 195,201,213,221, 237, 242, 254, 266, 304, 817, 328, 334, 347, 366, 380, 885, 430, 448, 464, 482, 500, 536, 550, 564, 584, 608, 617, 639, 645, 667, 684 Lobster fishing in Panbride, 71 Lochec, village of, 40, 586— sandstone quarries at, 585 — quod sacra parish of, 568— church, 587— schools, 588 Lochlec, parish of, 191 — loch, 192 Logic, suppressed parish of, 568— bleach- field, &c., 267 — iirigatcd meadows, 182— house, 178 — loch, drainage of, 163 Logie Pert, parish of, 263 Long loch in Lundie, the, 456 Longevity, instance of, in Kinncttle8,'219 — Kirriemuir, 160 — Tannadice, 205 Louping ague, the, 164, 246 Loups of Kenny, the, a cascade, 612 Lovcl, family of, 593 Lower, hill of, 692— house, 696— loch of, its site, 146 Lownie, village of, 1 92 Lud castle, rock called, 491 Luluch, King, death of, 481 Lumsdcn, governor of Dundee, 17 Lunan, parish of, 320 — bay, 240, 246, 321— water, 239, 240, 384, 394, 470, 597— well, 240 Lunatic asylum, Dundee, 48— -Montrose, 287 Lundie, hill of, 663, 664— loch, 456, 649 Lundie and Fowlis, united parishes of, 459 Lyall, Charles, Esq., geology of Rescobie by, 597— David, Esq., bequest by, 1 14 Lyell, Margaret, case of, 246 Lyon, Thomas, of Au€hindray, dOl — Mr, of Brigton, i6. Macbeth, tradition regardingy 559 Magdalene's chapel, burul-grooiid at, 133 Mains, castle of, 59 — and Strathmaitine, united parishes of, 54— of Dunnidien, battle at, 146 Maison Dieu, ruins of the chnrdi o( at Brechin, 133— hospital of, i6. 140 Maitland, William, 132 Malcolm II, murder and grave-stone of, 344 Manufactures, 24, 61, 71, 87» 196, 151, 182, 202, 224, 257, 267, 280, 305, 333, 348, 371, 403, 407, 417, 501, 551, 565, 585, 606, 626, 660, 665^ 697 Mark water, 192 Markets, see Fairs Marl, beds of, in Airlie, 673— in Porfiff, 693— in Kirriemuir, 163 Marr, Rev. James, 592 — John, 14 Martin's stone, tradition regarding, 54 Marykirk, bridge of, 268 MaiTtoun, parish of, 115— law, t&.-^vil- lage of, 179, 185 Marywell, Ullage of, 498 Muule, Galfred de, ancestor of the Pui- mures, 69 — Sir Thomas, defence of Brechin castle by, 131 Maxwell, James, bequest by, 229 Meanis, hill of the, artificial cave at, 177 xMeuthie, suppressed parish of, 234 Melgum water, 611, 687, 671— falls on the, 612 Melgund castle, history and ruins of, 628 Melville, Andrew, birth-place of, 250— educated at Montrose, 278— -James, 94, 278 Menmuir, parish of, 656 Meteorological tables, Brechin, 130 Meteorology and climate, 2, 55, 129, 143, 159, 191, 207 235, 246, 292, 810, 821, 888, 851, 388, 413, 461, 492,519,538,611,650 Middleton house, 887 Mill, Convener, bequest by, 95— Miss and Mr, bequests by, 289, 290 — Wal- ter, martyrdom of, 822 Mills, \'arious, in Liif, 578 Mineralogy', see Geology Mint of Dundee, discovery of the, 1 7 Mitchell, Rev. Thomas, 629 Molison, Thomas, of Montrose, 248 Monck, General, storming of Dundee by, 7 Monifieth, parish of, 589 — village of, 549 Monikie, parish of, 485 Monk Mudies* well, 862 Montcith-mont muir, 109 INDEX. 715 Month re wraont, plantations at, 394 — muir and forest of, 404 — improve- ment of it, 405 Montrose, the Marquis of, birth-place of, 278 Montrose, basin of, 272 — ^bay of, 246 — ness, tfr.— parish of, 271 — town of, 282— its situation, 272— history, 275 —manufactures, 280 — trade and ship- ping, 281 — public buildings, 282-— banks and post-office, 284— religious and charitable institutions in, 285 — — infirmary, &e. 287 Moray, Sir Andrew, victory of, at Plater, 171 Mortimer of Fowlis, family of, 462 Moston, pavement quarry of, 353 Mound, artificial, at Eassie, 476 Mountboy hill, 246— wood, 250 Muirside of KinkcU, village of, 403 Murray of Ochtertyre, family of, 460, 462 Murroes, parish of, 591 Navigation, statistics of, in Dundee, 29 Nether Careston, tun)ulus at, 532 Newbams, history of the property of, 301— improvement of it, 305 Newbigging, village of, 563«*Druidical remains at, 689 New Dosk, ancient parish of, 623 Ncwhall house, 641, 644 Newspapers published in Dundee, 48 Newton castle, ruins of, 428 Newtonmill house, 666 Newtyle, parish of, 558— railway from, to Dundee, 40, 63, 561, 565, 653, — and to Glammiss, 686 Noran water, the, 198, 311, 520 Noranside house, 199, 313 North water, the, 264 North Tarry house, 496 North Esk river, the, 192, 264 Northesk, Lady, chapel built by, 515 Oak, remarkable, in Cortachy, 441 Oathlaw, parish of, 291 Obelisks, ancient, in Mains, 57 Ochterlony, ancient burial-place at, 607 —house, 608— family of, 333— of Kelly, destruction of Arbroath Abbey by, 76— Rev. John, 629 Ogilvy of Airlie, history of the family of, 174, 448, 678— residence of, in Pamell, 110— of Bolshan, 397— of Inverquharity, history of the family of, 1 75 — feud between the clan of, and the Lindesays, 76, 299, 397— Rev. George, account of Kirriemuir by, 172 — Sir John, death of, at Stor- month, 178— Lady, school endowed by, 64 — Miss, of Westhall, bequest by, 485— Peter Wedderbuni of Ruth- ven, 415 Ogle, Easter and Wester, mansion- houses of, 200 Old Montrose, history of the property of, 116 Organic remains found in Rescobie, 599 Owners, &c 15, 58, 77, 110, 116, 124, 132, 147, 176, 193. 200, 215, 286, 240, 251, 264, 301, 313, 324, 333, 356, 379, 386, 394, 415, 427, 445, 457, 462, 470, 481, 486, 497, 531, 541, 561, 577, 592, 604, 615, 623, 627, 638, 644, 651, 657, 659, 666, 681, 689, 696 Paddock stane, the, 575 Panbride, parish of, 67 Panmure, family of, 69, 131 — Lord, 193 — house, 69 — castle, ruins of, i6. Parochial registers of Menmuir, extracts from, 656 — Monifieth, 542 — Newtyle, 560— Rescobie, 604 — Ruthven, 416 Paton, Rev. James, 646 — bequest by, 647 Patrick, Earl of Strathmore, 344, 345 Patterson, Colonel William, 215 Patullo, Robert, 13 Pauperism, see Poor Pavement Quarries, see Quarries Pearls found in the South Esk, 168, 19^ Pearsie house, 616 Peat moss, management of, in Kirrie- muir, 162 Peddie, Rev. Alexander, 323 Peat, old church of, 263 Phillip the forester, capture of Forfar castle by, 695 Pictish remains at Balgay, 17 — in Glam- miss, 346 — Newtyle, 559 — Tower, in Brechin, 133 Picts, victory of the, at Pitalpy, 16 Piper Dam, loch of, 461 Pitalpy, battle of, 16, 579 Pitarris hill, 246 Pitcur castle, riuns of, 643 — calm at, ib^ Htilloch, RoberT, 13 Pitlochrie bum, "421 PiUyal loch, 456 Pitmuies house, 387 — sculptured stone at, 386 Pitscandly hill, 597— fort on, 606— house, 608 Plague, ravages of the, in Dundee, 1 7 — in Logic Pert, 264---in Menmuir, 656 — in Montrose, 277 Plantations, 22, 59, 109, 111, 125, 135> 170, 181, 193, 195, 235, 242, 25a, 253, 266, 274, 294, 305, 333, 339, 355, 388, 394, 413, 417, 430, 440, 448, 470, 472, 487, 499, 535, 563, 576, 602, 614, 623, 627, 638, 653, 663, 684, 689 Platane or Plater, forest of, 170, 294— battle of, 171 716 FORFARSHIRE. Playfair, Professor, birth-place of, 579 —and of William, ib. Poaching, former prevalence of, in Kin- nettles, 219— and in Kirkden, 388 Police establishment of Dundee, the, 8 Poor, management of the, 49, 64, 73, 106, 113, 121, 127, 140. 156, 189, 197, 204, 228, 239, 244, 260, 269, 289, 308, 930, 336, 349, 375, 382, 392, 410, 420, 432, 453, 468, 474, 484, 488. 517, 538, 557, 567, 589, 595, 610, 619, 635, 641, 646, 655, 658, 661, 669, 687, 690, 702 Population, returns of the, 18, 57, 69, 81, 111, 117, 124, 134, 147, 179, 194, 200, 218, 236, 241, 252, 265, 278, 302, 315, 327, 333, 347, 358, 379, 387, 402, 416, 428, 447, 462, 472, 481, 486, 498, 534, 548, 561, 582, 593, 608, 616, 623, 632, 638, 644, 652, 658, 660, 667, 681, 689, 697 —character* habits, and language of the, 20, 58, 69, 84, 117, 134, 179, 194, 219, 237, 253, 265, 279, 303, 315, 327, 333, 347, 360, 388, 429, 447, 463, 498, 549, 583, 617, 633 Powrie castle, ruins of, 593 Priory of Rcstennet, ruins of, 694 Produce, average annual, 23, 61, 70, 108, 112, 119, 126, 137, 151, 182, 195, 220, 224, 238, 243, 256, 267, 306, 318, 328, 334, 370, 881, 389, 407, 431, 450, 535, 551, 585, 594, 624, 639, 652, 667 Prosen water, the, 159, 165, 611 Pullar, James, bequest by, 50 Pyott, Alexander, 214 Quarries, limestone, 130, 137, 160, 254, 266, 273, 424, 437, 464— pavement, 243, 341, 353, 370, 881, 501, 540, 598, 600, 692— sandstone, 68, 131, 137, 144, 209, 223, 240, 266, 305, 385, 501, 564, 585, 653— slate, 370, 688— whinstone, 223 Quytefield, remains of old church at, 241 Railway, the Dundee and Arbroath, 513 — the Dundee and Newtyle, 40, 63, 561, 565, 653— the Forfar and Ar- broath, 697— expense, revenue, &c. of it, 698— the Newtyle and Olam- miss, 686 Ramsay, Captain, bequest by, 50 Rattray, Lieutenant- Colonel, 199 Reading rooms in Dundee, 47 RedcasUe, ruins of, 240 — its history, 325 Redhead, headland of, 289, 491 Reeky linn, the, 423, 637 Reformation, early progress of the, in Moniiieth, 542 Reidie, remains of Roman road at, 679 Rent, rates of, 22, 59, 87, 1 12, 1 19, 125, 135, 181, 195, 201, 220, 237, 24^, 253, 266, 280, 304, 317, 328, 334, 339, 363, 380, 388, 405^ 406, 417, 430, 448, 463, 464, 485, 494, 608, 617, 624, 633, 640, 644, 652, 658, 660, 682, 689, 692— comparison of, at various periods, 364, 406 Rescobie, parish of, 596— loch, 142, 240, 597 Restenet, battle of, and memorials of it, 605— loch, 240, 691, 693— priory, ruins of, 694 Reswallie house, 608 Roads and means of communication, 40^ 62, 71, 91, 112, 120, 137, 152, 185, 196, 202, 226, 238, 243, 257, 268, 284, 306, 319, 328, 334, 348, 372, 381, 389, 407, 431, 451, 465, 473, 483, 536, 553, 565, 609, 617, 634, 640, 653, 668, 686, 690 Rob's Rede, fort of, 606 Rocking stones 'in Kirriemuir, 176 Rogers, William, bequest by, 50 Roman camps in Airlie, 679 — Careston, 532— Finhaven, 297— Forfar, 694— Glammiss, 346— Guthrie, 471 — In- verarity, 236— Kettins, 643— Liff, 579 — Mains, 57— Road, remains of, 679, 694 Roscobie, see Rescobie Rose, Sir George, 665 Ross, Alexander burial-place of, 193 Rossie, ancient barony of 251 — house, 252— muir, 109, 393,404 Ruthven, parish of, 413 — ruins of the castle of, 415 — house, 416 Sail-cloth, manufactory of in Dundee» 38 St Arnold's seat, 198 Si Bride's ring, a Druidical circle, 546 St Cowsland's chapel, ruins of, 152 St Francis' well, 13 St John, various sculptures representing, in Airiie, 680 St Murdoch's chapel, remains of, 241 St Orland's stone, 845 St Skay, site of the cha])el of, 244 St Skcoch, ancient titularity of, 245 St Vigeans, parish of, 489 Salmon fisheries, see Fisheries Sandbank, shifting, off Dundee, 3 Sandstone, peculiar, found in Kinncttles, 207 Savings banks, 49, 105, 127, 140, 188. 204, 244, 260, 269. 288, 330, 330, 516,557,661 Schools, see Education Schurroch hill, 612 — Druidical circle on, 615 Scotstown, quarry of, 653 Scott, David, Esq. of Dunninald, 25(^ INDEX. 717 — andof Usan, t6. — Sir David, bequest by, 261— Judge, birth-place of, 615— Mrs, of Usan, bequest by, 261 Scrymseor, Alexander, ancestor of the family, 13 Sculptured stones, various, 386, 476, 546, 559, 657— their origin, &c. 477 Sea, recession of the, at Monifieth, 557 Senebay, Patrick de, 132 Sheep, see Live- Stock Shielhill house, 179— bridge of, 185 Shipping belonging to Arbroath, 87 — to Dundee, 30, 34— to Montrose, 281— to Ptenbride, 71 Shorewood, George, 132 Sidkw or Siedlaw hills, the, 206, 337, 338, 351, 378, 383, 456, 560, 641, 648, 703— fort on, 297— white sheets of, 648 Sievright, Norman, 132 Sinclair, John, 132 Skeletons, remarkable, found in Logic Pert, 265 Skene of Skene, family of, 530 — George, Esq. 527, 530 Skichen, cairn at, 357 Slade, pavement quarry of, 354 Slateford, village of, 624 Slugs of Auchranie, the, 423, 637 Small, Rev. Dr, 15— birth-place of, 356 Smuggling, former prevalence of, in Kinnettles, 219 Societies, friendly, 49, 105, 188, 260, 288, 349, 374 — religious and chari- table, 40, 100, 104, 139, 186, 285, 555 South Esk river, 110, 115, 131, 165, 198, 246, 257, 292, 436, 519, 520— waterfall on, 437 Speid, Mrs, of Ardovie, bequest by, 140 Spinning-mills in Arbirlot, 333— in Dun- dee, 26— Finhaven, 305— in Glam- miss, 348 — in Inverkeillor, 241 — in Kinnell, 407— in Kinnettles, 224 —in LifF, 578— in Logic Pert, 267— in Monifieth, 551 — in Montrose, 280 — in Ruthvcn, 418— in St Vigeans, 501 —in Tannadice, 202 Springfield house, 496 Springs, mineral, 68, 74, 192, 208,264, 332, 338, 352, 384, 413, 436, 520, 569, 612, 688 Stanachy bridge, 138 Steven, Mr, bequest by, 50 Stone-coffins, various, found, 146, 14,7, 236, 357, 399, 616, 630, 651, 666, 679 Stones, monumental, sculptured, &c. 176, 386. 476, 477, 546, 559, 605, 630, 6J7 Siormonth. battle of, 173 Stracathrow, see Strickathrow Strathdichty, church of, 542 Strathmore, the Earl of, his murder, 301 —district of, 337, 383, 670, 703— property of, 346 Stratton, Miss, bequest by, 286, 289 Strickathrow, parish of, 662— hill, 663 —house, 666 Sueno, a Danish king, defeat of, 631 Suspension bridge of Montrose, the, 283 Tammy*s hole, tradition regarding, 314 Tannadice. parish of, 198 — house, 200 Tanning, &ctories for, in Dundee, 38 Tarf water, the, 192 Tay, frith of, 1— tides in the, 2 Taylor, James, bequest by, 647 Tealing, parish of, 378 Temperance societies, first formation of, 47 Templeton, village of, 560 Thomson, Rev. James, 401 Threave, mode of reaping by the, 683 Tides, rise of the, at Dundee, 2 Tiger Eari of Crawford, the, 299 Tina, supposed Roman station of, 663 Tom-au-moid, ruins of the, 325 Tombstones, old, in Cortachy, 445 — in Kinnettles, 216 Trees, remarkable, in Careston, 527 — in Cortachy, 441 — at Inverquharity Castle, 171— in Liff, 576— at Mains castle, 59— in Oathlaw, 294 Tulloeshill, 143 Tumuli, various, 194, 199, 236,265^326, 358, 386, 399, 486, 532, 546, 559, 630, 643, 657, 660, 679, 689 Turin hill, 597, 627— fort on, 606— quarries of, 598, 600 Turret water, 192 Tytler, family of, 315 Unick water, 192 Union, effect of the, on Dundee, 7 Urns, funeral, found, 147, 199, 265, 31 4, 357, 386, 399, 559, 630 Usan house, 252 — village, 255 Vane, ruins of castle of, 314 Vinney water, 143, 146, 384 Vitrified forts on Finhaven hill, 295 — on Lawshill, 545 Wages, rates of, 22, 60, 70, 87, 107, 112, 119, 125, 135, 150, 195, 225, 253, 266, 280, 304, 334, 364, 365, 380, 431, 482, 499, 500, 585, 594 685 Wallace, Sir William, 13— tower, ruins of, 650 Wardmill, hill of, 496 Wuteresk, valley of, 435 Watt institution of Dundee, the, 46 Weavers, causes of the depressed state of, 507 Webster, Mr, bequest by, 44, 50— James, 718 FORFARSHIRE. })irth -place of, 296— John, bequest by, 187 — Thomas, bequest by, 114 Wedderbum castle, ruins of, 593 Weems or artificial eaves, in Auchter- house, 651— Airlie,679— Kettins, 643 Well-bank, quarry at, 540 Wemyss castle, ruins of, 607— quarries of, 598 West water, the, 663, 664, 688 West Braky castle, 396 Wester Ogle house, 200 Wester Markhouse, 200 Westfield, cairn and remains at, 399 Westhaven, village of, 70, 71 Whale fishing company ojf Dundee, the, 34 Wharral loch, 436 Wheat fly, injury done by the, 169 Whin, introduction of the, into Angus, 319 White, David, school endowed by, 286, 289 White water, the, 436 White sheete of Sidlaw, the, 648 Whitefaills castle, ruins of, 396 Whitewell house* 200 Whiting Ness, 491 Whyte, Mr, bequest by, 50 Wllkie, Major, in>provemeiit8 by, 301, 305 William the Lion, residence of, in Lu- nan, 325— tomb of, 77 Williamson, Robert, bequest by, 261 Willison, Rev. John, 14, 132 Windsard law, 314 Wirren hill, 688 Wishart, George, tradition regarding, 17 Witchcraft, trials for, in Forfar, 695 Wormyhills, bleachfield of, 333 Wuddy law, tumuli on, 399 Yeaman, George,, of Murie, 14 Young, John, 278 Zoology, 5, 75, 116, 165, 193, 212, 235, 247, 273, 313, 343, 354, 385, 413. 425, 438, 457, 522, 540, 601, 675 ERRATA. Page 51, line loathe sum of L.4000, stated as the assessment for the support of the poor of Dundee for the year ending February 1834, ought to be L.3000; the former sum being inclusive of L.IOOO for feu- duties, which were sold to pay a debt that had been accumulating for several years. — 400, 2d line from bottom, /or on read of. — 403, last line,/ar Pitmuir mill tolls read Pitmuir mill toll. — 406, line 14, for 922 read 92 J. — — note, 4th line from bottom, /or West Braky read Hatton mill. — 407, line 16, for Hatton Den read Hatton mill. — 408, — 1,/or KinnelPs mills read Kinnell's mill. EDivnrnGH : IMIINTED BY STARK & OMPANV, OLD ASSEMBLE CLOSE. KINCARDINE. CONTENTS. ARBUTHNOTT, PAGE 163 BANCHORY-DBVENICK, 178 BANCHORY-TERNAN, 323 BBN HOLME, 51 BBRVIE, I DUNNOTTAR, 212 DURRIS, 170 FETTERCAIRN, 111 FETTERESSO, 244 FORDOUN, 66 GARVOCK, 22 GLENBERVIE, 165 KINNEFF, 209 LAURENCEKIRK, 128 MARYCULTER, 189 MARYKIRK, 297 NIGG, 195 ST CYRUS, 269 STRACHAN, 231 L 7^»a' l.iMh.fcirmtM» Br t PARISH OF BERVIE. PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JOHN GLEGG, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish takes its name from the small river that runs along its north-east boundary ; and, according to Chalmers, in bis Caledonia, the water of Bervie derives its name from the British Beru to flow, Berw^ Berwy^ a boiling or ebullition. This ■etymology corresponds exactly with the character of the stream. A distinction between the name of the parish and the burgh may be marked by the Gaelic word Inver^ which indicates the situa- tion of the town by its signification, and ought to be applied to the burgh only. Extenty Sfc, — The extent of the parish in length is about 2 miles, and in breadth about 1^. Its figure is quadrilateral. It is bound- ed towards the south and south-^west, by the parish of Benholme ; the north-west, by the parish of Garvock ; the north and north- east, by the parish of Arbuthnott ; the east, by the parish of Kin- neff ; and its boundary on the south-east is the German Ocean. Topographical Appearances. — The parish has a gradual ascent from east to west, with two ranges of hill running nearly parallel. There is a considerable extent of flat land towards the south and east boundaries of this parish. There is a small fertile valley along the eastern boundary, through which the water of Bervie runs to the sea. The ground on either side is high, and presents a variety of surface. The extent of the coast is about a mile and ar.half, being the breadth of the parish ; and it appears rocky, ex- cepting that part of it immediately opposite the town. The rocks are not hi^h, being nearly all covered at high water. It would seem that the sea had receded considerably from the high land towards the south-east boundary of the parish, as there are several projecting rocky eminences of considerable height, which evident- ly appear to have at one time been washed by the ocean. There KINCARDINE. A 2 KINCARDINESHIRE, is a conspicuous land-mark, called Bervie Brow, which is seen by mariners at a great distance. Although it is in the parish of Kin- neff, it may be noticed here ; and it is also called the rock of Craig David, by the circumstance of that monarch's landing near the spot The hill called Gourdon Hill, in the parish of Bervie, is also seen by mariners at a great distance. Meteorology, — The winds that generally prevail are the north and north-east winds in winter ; the south and south-east in the spring ; the south, south-west, and north-west generally in summer and autumn. The climate is good ; and, as a proof of its salubrious nature, it may be mentioned, that there are few prevailing distem- pers in the district. Influenza, however, has been very severe in this parish during the winter. Twenty persons belonging to the place died of it in the course of a fortnight, and nearly the half of the population were more or less affected, and confined to bed, by the malady. But, as it has been general in town and country through- out Scotland, the prevalence of the disease here cannot be r^ard- ed as any proof of the climate's being unfavourable to health in general. Hydrography, — There are many excellent perennial springs in the parish. The water for the supply of the town, after ruoning so far in a covered drain, is conveyed by leaden pipes to a cis- tern, and thence to small wells of cast metal in the burgh, which afford the inhabitants a regular supply of the very best water. The only river near the parish is the Water of Ber- vie, which has its source among the Grampians, in the upper district of the parish of Glenbervie. It has a course of nearly twelve miles, and winds-in beautiful curves as it runs on. Its banks, as it passes through the parish of Arbuthnott, are here and there diversified with fine thriving plantations, and enclosed fertile fields and pastures, belonging to the Viscount of Arbuthnott; and it runs into the sea at the eastern extremity of the parish of Bervie. There is also a small burn, the Burn of Peattie, whose water collects about the north-west boundary of the parish, and runs in a short course from west to east into the Water of Bervie. This little stream is found of great service to the tenants who have their farms near it, as it affords a constant supply of water to their cattle. Geology and Mineralogy. — The soil of the low lands of the parish is deservedly reckoned the most fertile in the coubty. It is a fine loam of considerable depth, resting on a bed of gravel, easily BERVIE. 3 pervious by water. The gravel is superincumbent on a coarse sandstone conglomerate, and, with the exception of a few patches of trap, provincially called scurdy, this sandstone prevails through- out the whole parish. Where seen exposed, as within flood-mark of the sea, and in one or two sections inland, where it has been quarried for building, it presents alternate layers of rounded blocks of various sizes. In some layers the sandstone produces durable materials for building ; and it may be obtained at little expense, and separated into blocks of good size. Within flood-mark one or two veins of trap, of a ferruginous colour, have been observed ; but it is not very apparent that these produce much disruption o| the beds, or much alteration of the inclination of the strata, which may be stated as generally to north-west, with a dip of 15° or 25®, and having, with slight variation, a direction from south-west to north-east The veins alluded to are of a porphyritic structure, and not more, at most, than two feet in thickness. Boulders of various sizes, from a foot in diameter to seven feet, are seen within flood-mark ; the largest of these is a block of quartz rock. The others are of granite, gneiss, mica slate, &c. These boulders, however, are not numerous, excepting near the village of Gour- don. The beach consists of a considerable mass of small pebbles of jasper, porphyry, slate, agate, &c Beautiful agates are occa- sionally found in the loose soil on the higher grounds, as well as on the .beach ; and in the Den of Peattie, through which the little stream above alluded to, runs to the water, a large crystal of topaz was found. It is to be observed, that on the highest part of the parish adjoining to Benholme, which forms a hill of perhaps 400 feet and upwards in height, and which rises from the margin of the sea, little soil is to be found, and the puddingstone appears at the summit. The haugh lands adjoining the sea, which had at one time been overflowed by it, are composed entirely of a mass of small pebbles, mixed with black earth : the pebbles form the greatest portion of the mass. These lands are very fertile ; rent at about L. 5 per acre ; and it is said, that if these pebbles were removed, the land would be rendered unproductive. It may be here observed, that part of the upper fields in the parish is composed of a strong soil upon a clay bottom. Zoology.— This parish abounds with hares. The birds within it are neither numerous in species, nor rare ; a few may be set down as inhabitants or occasional visitors. Horn-owl, screech-owl, common owl, common crow, hooded-crow, rook, jackdaw, magpie 4 • KINCARDINESHIRE. song-tlirush, blackbird, water-ouzel, stonechat, redbreast, white wagtail, field-lark, several species of titmouse, yellow-hammer, corn-bunting, green-finch, house sparrow, chaffinch, common lin- net, window-swallow, black martin, ring-dove (or cushat,) par- tridge, common heron, corncrake, common snipe, wild duck, cuckoo. The birds which may be reckoned visitors are sea-fowl in im- mense numbers, such as gulls, terns, and wild geese, wild swans^ (two beautiful white swans were shot a few years ago at the mouth of the river), the starling, curlew, rock-pigeon, woodcock, pheasant, kite or glead, blue hawk, raven, fieldfare, snow-bunting, bullfinch, goldfinch. The water of Bervie is full of fine trout ; and salmoD frequent it. Crabs and lobsters abound among the rocks near the bay, and shrimps are likewise got among the sands. In 1826 the beautiful king'sfisher, Alcedo ispida, (the famed halcyon of antiquity), was frequently seen sporting among the rocks at the mouth of the river, its plumage glittering in the sunbeams. The horses in this parish are of good size, and hardy, and ex- cellent for draught. The cows are excellent milkers ; their calves grow large, and readily meet a good market The fat cattle, which the farmers feed with turnips, bring always good prices. Very few sheep are reared in the parish. Botany — Among the rare plants in this parish, may be noted the following : Dianthiis deltoides^ Hordeum murinum and Pul' monaria maritima. All the common seeds of plants and herbs for culinary purposes, — such as cabbages, carrots, brocoli, cauliflower, sallad, lettuce, cress, parsley, spinage, mustard,- peas, beans, leeks, onions, raddish ; and also some -of the sweet and physical herb seeds, such as marjoram, marigold, rosemary, thyme, &c. do well in the gardens. Seeds for agricultural purposes, such as clover, rye-grass, rib-grass, tares, turnip, carrot, &c thrive well in the fields. And the perennial herbaceous plants, such as primrose, polyan- thus, pinks, rocket, rhubarb, sweet William, violet, wallflower, tulip?, &c. are seen in the gardens in all their variety of colours. And fruit trees, such as the Keswick codling, Ribston pippin, the moorfowl egg, and Jargonelle pear, the May Duke and blackheart cherry bear well in the little gardens, as well as the rasp and gooseberry bushes, the currants and strawberries. The more remarkable native plants in the vale of Bervie are BERVIE. 5 enumerated in the Account of the adjoining parish of Arbuthnott, to which the reader is referred. The greatest elevation, Bervie Hill, is about 400 feet; but the parish embraces part of the sea coast, and enjoys a temperature superior to that of the inland districts on the same parallel of latitude. In a very warm hollow near Gourdon is found Hordeum murinum. It was seen there in 1824 by Mr Murray, and it is the first lo- cality north of the Forth. The beautiful Pulmonaria maritima abounds on the low stony beach. Various species of Carex, and occasionally several plants from the upland districts, Vicia sylva^ ticoj &c are brought down by the river floods ; Conium maculattim (spotted hemlock) used in medicine, abounds in the rich rank soil of waste corners and lanes of the burgh, although rare in inland country parishes ; Carduus tenui/lorus occurs on road sides. The warm arable lands contain the pretty scarlet pimpernel ; and Scandix pecten^ Saxifraga granulata^ Dianihus deltoides^ Allium vineakf Eupatorium Cannabinum^ Ligusticum Scoticum^ Silene mart' tima^ and Bromus pinnatus^ are found in the recesses of the rocks on the north bank of the river in Kinneff. Chara vulgaris occurs in some pools ; and in the muddy shores of the neighbouring parish of Benholme, Aster Tripolium. There are some thrivingplantations, which consist of ash, elm, beech, birch, firs, (Scotch, silver, spruce, and pine), hazel, oak, larch, &c. The trees are not yet of large size, as it is not many years since they were planted. The ash, oak, and other trees in the dens are doing well. Those that are planted in more exposed situations, and where there is less soil, appear not so vigorous. II. — Civil History. The events worthy of notice connected with this parish are few. The landing of David II. in 1342, — the passing of the Duke of Cumberland in 1745 on his way to the north, — and the gallantry of a small body of volunteers belonging to Bervie, during the French war, may not be uninteresting to readers. King David Bruce, by the violence of a storm, was forced to land at the mouth of the water of Bervie. He met with very kind treatment from the in- habitants, which so gratified and pleased him, that he granted a charter to Bervie, conferring many privileges on its inhabitants. This charter was renewed by James VI. in 1595. At the time of the Rebellion in 1745, an occurrence took place, which greatly alarmed the inhabitants of this parish, and led the minister, Mr Dow, to use his influence for the protection of their 6 KINCARDINESHIRE. persons and property. Mr Dow, upon learning that the troops un- der the command of His Royal Highness the Duke of Cumber- land could not be restrained from burning the boats of the 6sher- men, plundering and destroying the neighouring village of Johns- haven, in the parish of Benholme, on account of some of the in- habitants being suspected of sending out provisions in boats to some of the Pretender's troops that were passing by sea, set out on foot to meet His Royal Highness, for the purpose of mediating in behalf of his parishioners. It is said that he met the anny, headed by the Royal equipage at the Bridge of Benholme, about three miles from Bervie ; that he was taken into the Duke's coach, conveyed to his own door, and honoured with His Royal High- ness, as his guest for the night. This interview afforded the mi- nister an opportunity of assuring his distinguished guest, that the inhabitants of Bervie were well affected to His Majesty's govern- ment, and it was the means of saving them from the rough treat- ment of the soldiers, who, otherwise, might have treated them as they did their neighbours in Johnshavcn, upon groundless suspi- cions of disaffection in these disturbed times. In the year 1800, a French sloop of war appeared one day on the coast of Bervie, and pursued several merchant vessels that were within her reach, till they took shelter in the mouth of the water, and in the port at Gourdon. This privateer would, unquestion- ably, have made them her prizes ; the crew might have landed, destroyed and plundered the town, and carried off a great deal of property ; had it not been that the presence and gallantry of a small body of volunteers, belonging to the parish, quite intimidat- ed them. The volunteers were immediately called to arms by the provost of the burgh, Mr Hudson, and marched in two divisions to the beach, to face the enemy. The one party took the one side of the water, and the other went in the direction of the^ old Castle of Hallgreen. The guns of the privateer were pointed in the direction of those who had gone to the beach, and taken up their position among the rocks, and soon began to discharge their balls in all directions among them, but happily without doing any mis- chief. Several rounds of musketry were tired by the volunteers, till the crew of the privateer began to suspect, that a heavy fire was about to be opened upon them by the party who had gone in the direction of the Castle of Hallgreen, whom they believed to be a body of artillerymen belonghig to that castle, which commands the bay, and has much the appearance of a fort. But, be this as BERVIE. 7 It may, it is related by those who were among the volunteers on that occasion, that no sooner were they seen marching to the heights near the castle, than the ship-of-war put up all sail, and hastened out of sight. Plans and surveys of this parish are in the possession of the proprietors, or their factors and surveyors. Land-ifumers. — The chief land-owners are, the Viscount of Ar- buthnott, and James Farquhar, Esq. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers, which are in a state of good preservation, have no earlier entries than in 1742 in the Book of Discipline, and 1766 in the Cash-book. There were lately found among some old papers, session records with entries in 1657, but they are so mutilated as scarcely to be legible. The books which contain the present records of the session are two volumes, — the one with the cash entries and distributions for be- hoof of the poor, and the other containing the minutes connected with the usual business of the session, and the registers of mar- riages and baptisms. Those books are very accurately kept by Mr Paterson, the schoolmaster of the parish, who is session -clerk. Antiquities. — There is a market- cross in the burgh near the town-house. It consists of a column of stone about 14 feet high, with a ball on the top of it, and it is surrounded at the base by a flight of steps. It is apparently of considerable antiquity. There had formerly been a religious house here, belonging to a body of friars, as there are in the possession of the feuars, charters, with such words as Friars Dubbs, &c. The discovery of graves by the workmen employed, when the turnpike road was in making, is a further evidence of the existence of such an establishment, for it was near the place still known by the name of Friars Dubbs; and it is conjectured that these graves mark the spot where the friars had their burying-ground. There are on the top of a hill, in this parish, three circles of earth and stone near one another, which are evidently of antiquity. It would be vain to speculate about the purpose for which they may have been originally formed. It may have been for religious ceremonies, or, what is more likely, these circles may be the ves- tiges of a Roman camp. The old Castle of Hallgreen is situated at the southmost point of the Parliamentary boundary of the burgh, on an eminence near the sea, and is a large building. A date appears on the west front of it, considerably eflfaced, but supposed to be 1376. Its walls are 8 KINCARDINESHIRE. Tery thick, and full of arrow-holes, and the stones in many parts appear much worn by the lapse of ages. There is every appear- ance of its having been surrounded by a moatj over which there had been a drawbridge with a portcullis near the outer gate of the court Several additions appear to have been made to this castle at different periods. Above a door in the court, there is the date 1687, with the initials of a proprietor, Mr Raitt, who then occupied this mansion, and had made a considerable addition to it ; and there is in one of the principal rooms, on the stucco^-ceil- ing, a coat-of-arms, with the words yoero melioray and the date 1683. There are also some paintings on the old wainscots which lines the walls, which look like Dutch paintings, viz. two landscapes and a flower-piece. The modern part of this building is habitable, and is presently occupied by a family. It may not be improper to notice here some other evidences of the antiquity and consequence of the burgh of Inverbervie, such as the existence of a spacious mansion, surrounded by a high wall, having an arched gateway, in front, of fine workmanship. This edifice, it is said, originally belonged to the M arischal family, and latterly became the property and was the town residence of the noble family of Arbuthnott No part of the building now remains. It was taken down, and the foundation cleared out, about twenty years ago, to make way for feuing and other improvements. There are several other old buildings pointed out as the town residences of the neighbouring lairds. All these circumstances shew that this place had attracted early notice, and had been a favourite place of resort for the gentry. The town-house is a building of two storeys. There are two dates above the door, the one is 1569, and the other 1720, with the word below it rebuilt It consists of a hall and small council- room in the upper floor, and the lower contains the flesh and meal-market, to which there is attached a small arched vault, vul- garly called the Black Hole. This place is quite unfit for the re- gular confinement of prisoners, but is found sometimes very con- venient when vagrants become troublesome, and give annoyance to the inhabitants, for they are shut up in it for a few hours by order of the magistrates. There is a handsome belfry on the town- house, containing a bell, which is rung four times a-day for the benefit of the public, viz. at six and nine o'clock in the morning, at two in the afternoon, and at nine at night. Modern Buildings, — The new parish church, which was opened BERVIK. 9 for public worship on the 1st of January 1837, is particularly de- serving of notice. It is an elegant edifice, built in the Gothic style, with a square tower rising to the height of upwards of 100 feet, and ornamented with carved minarets. The main entrance to the church is by a splendid vestibule in the tower. It is enclosed on the west, north, and east, by substantial walls, built of stone and lime, with a coping of hewn work, and towanls the south-east by an elegant metal railing, in which there is a fine gate, with beau- tiful pillars of hewn work. The small elevation of the building, at a little distance from the street, gives it a fine effect The tower is seen to great advantage in all directions, and gives an air of or- nament and grandeur to the burgh which it had not before. The entire building does great credit to the architect, to the undertaker, and the workmen, and is much admired. It will stand as a monu- ment to perpetuate to future generations the remembrance of the piety and zeal of the heritors of this parish, for the glory of God and the spiritual welfare and comfort of the people. The manse, which immediately adjoins the church, is a house of two storeys fronting the street, and is sufficiently comfortable and commodious. The school-house, which is situated at the east comer of the town, is a small building of two storeys, com- manding a fine view of the sea, but much exposed. The head inn stands at the north-east entrance to the burgh, and commands a fine view of the scenerv above the bridge, where the old castle of AUardice, in the parish of Arbuthnott, appears in the distance on an elevation, surrounded with trees and shrubbery. The bridge thrown across the water at the approach to the town on the north-east is a fine structure, consisting of one beau- tiful arch of a large span. The height of the bridge from the bed of the river cannot be less than 80 feet. The place fixed on for building it was found to be well adapted for the undertaking, as the banks on either side are high, and composed of rock. Experience has proved the substantial nature of the foundation. The bridge has never been injured by the greatest floods which have happen- ed, while the houses on the haughs have been often damaged, and sometimes in danger of being swept away by the swelling of the water, and the force of the current If easy access could be got to the doors of the large apartments at the end of this bridge, they might be converted to some useful purpose. They have occasionally been used as coal -sheds, but they are at present quite empty. There is a meal and barley mill on the haugli below the bridge, 10 KINCARDINESHIRE. and beside it a small spinning-mill. There is, on the upper side of the bridge, a spinning-mill of three stories, which was the first that was established in Scotland for the spinning of yam and thread. This mill is at present undergoing a thorough repair, and considerable additions are making to it, and, when completed, it will employ a good many more additional hands. All the machinery at these mills is moved by water. IIL — Population. This parish was originally a part of that of Kinneff. It was se- parated from it about the time of the Reformation, when the Lords of the Congregation were deeply interesting themselves in the plantation of kirks, and in securing the Protestant worship through- out Scotland, after Presbyterian church government had been es- tablished by an act of Legislature. The early state of the popu- lation cannot be distinctly traced. By the Government census taken at different times, it would appear that there has been for some time past a gradual increase. This may be accounted for in a great measure by the introduction of spinning-mills, and the encouragement given to weavers in the establishment of different manufactures, employing a good many hands at the loom for va- rious fabrics, such as linen, canvass, weaving, &c. Number of persons in the burgh, (by census 1831,) . 757 Tillage of Gourdon, by do. . 238 country, by do. . . 140 It is understood that the population of the parish is at present on the increase. The average number of births yearly for the last seven years, . 25 No register of deaths is kept in the parish. The yearly average of marriages has been . . . 10 The number of unmarried men, bachelors, upwards of 50 years of age, 5 widowers, do. do. . 15 unmarried women upwards of 45, . 20 inhabited house . . .212 Illegitimate births in the course of the last three years, 7. Character of the People. — The inhabitants of this parish are of cleanly habits in general, and always study to appear in good clothes. They seem to be comfortable and contented, with very few exceptions. The station in which they are placed under Pro- vidence does not admit of their devoting much time to the im- provement of intellect, or advances in science, but they are, ge- nerally speaking, a moral and religious people, who pay a becom- ing regard to the sanctity of the Sabbath, and to gospel ordi- nances ; and but very few among them have ever been found guilty of grossly transgressing the laws of the land, established for the 3 BEKVIE. 11 good order of society. Poaching in game, and in salmon, and smuggling prevailed, it is said, to a considerable extent amongst the people of this parish in former years. But there is now no such thing heard of as smuggling, and the cases of poaching are very rare. The iniquitous practice is sufficiently infamous, of itself, to stamp the mark of shame on every poacher, and no one who has a regard for his character will ever engage in it. It may be mentioned here, as one distinguishing trait in the character of the inhabitants of Bervie, that they are always alive to the calls of humanity, and ready to give aid, according to their circumstances, to alleviate the sufferings of their fellow-creatures. And this is, surely, one grand effect which the gospel has produced, as it is the benign spirit of Christianity which can awaken and keep alive in our hearts a fellow-feeling for the distresses and wants of others. IV. — Industry. There are about 50 persons, including farmers and their male servants, employed in agriculture in this parish. When the spinning-mill, which is at present under repair, is set a-going, there may be about 14 males, including masters and boys, engaged at both mills. The number of workmen employed at the dowlas linen weaving, including agents, may be about 1 12. There are 8 shopkeepers, 7 shoemakers, 3 tailors, 5 house- carpenters, 5 blacksmiths, 1 cart and plough- w right, 3 masons, 1 watch and clock-maker, 1 cooi^er, 2 slaters, 1 plasterer, 1 flax- dresser, 1 saddle and harness-maker, 1 boat-builder, being in all 40 masters, who employ occasionally several hands, according to their extent of business. There are also 3 carriers, and several carters, 5 meal sellers, and 2 fleshers. The number of males employed in the fisheries, as nearly as can be ascertained, is 70. Agriculture, — The number of standard imperial acres cultivated in the parish is about 1222 acres uncultivated, includin^i^ roads, is fully . 500 acres which might be profitably added to the cultivated land is about . . '^ acres under planted wood is about . • 70 Rent of Land,— The average rent of arable land in the parish is about L. 2, 10s. per acre. The rent varies from L. 6 to L. 1. The rent of grazing, as charged by the burgh, per cow is L. 1 ; and the rent per ewe, as charged by the farmer for hill pasture, is about 6d. each. 12 KINCAUDINESHIRE. Wages. — The general rate of a ploughman's wages (exclusive of two pecks of meal per week, and a pint of milk daily,) is per year about L. 12 ; females, L. 4, L. 5, and L. 6. The wages of out- door females per day, 7d. The rate of an artisan's labour per day is in summer 2s., and in winter Is. 6d. The rate for mason- work may vary, per week, from 12s. to 20s. The rate of car- penter work is also various ; in general it is about 2s. per day. Prices of Provisions. — The price of butter per imperial pound varies from 5d. to lOd. ; theprice of eggs per dozen, from4d.to7d.; the price of meal per stone. Is. 6d. to 2s. 2d ; the price of milk per Scotch pint, 2d. to 3d. ; cheese per stone, 6s. to 8s. ; butcher- meat 4d. to 5^d. per pound. Live-stock. — The cattle in the parish are generally of the An- gus breed. Those that are reared in it are very fine beasts, but they are but few in number, as the farms are principally grain farms, and are not generally employed in pasturage. HtLshandry, — The husbandry is excellent, and the fields, which are tastefully laid off from one another, produce the most abun- dant crops of all kinds of grain, such as wheat, beans and peas, oats, barley, potatoes, turnips, &c. and no better mode of farm- ing than that which is presently followed could be devised. Waste land to a considerable extent has been reclaimed, during the last twelve years, by draining, &c. Leases. — The duration of leases in the parish is nineteen years, with the exception of the burgh lands, which have been for some time past let at no longer a lease than that of ten years. A lease for nineteen years is considered sufficiently favourable, when a farm is entirely improved ; but a longer lease would be considered more advantageous to the tenant where much land has to be reclaimed. In this parish, the farmers seem to be well satisfied with the com- mon nineteen years lease. The farm-buildings are in a state of good order, and are cover- ed for the most part with slates or tiles. The proprietors give every encouragement to their tenants, and have never been known to refuse a reasonable request The tenants are most respectable and industrious. They have great advantages which those in in- land parishes cannot possibly enjoy ; such as the genial nature of the climate, the superior quality of the soil, the large supply of sea weed for manure, the grain market established in the burgh, and the shipping port of Gourdon in the parish, where they get BEKVIE. 13 lime and coals at little expense, and where they deliver their grain, &c. Quarries. — There are at present several open quarries of sand- stone in the parish, which afford large blocks of excellent materials. They might be turned to good account, if building were to go on extensively in the neighbourhood. The most of the new build- ings in this and the neighbouring parishes have been supplied with stones from these quarries. The greater part of the stones for the new parish church was got from them. Fisheries. — Of these there are several kinds ; the salmon, cod and ling, and haddock fisheries. The salmon-fishing is carried on in the bay. The salmon is taken by stake-nets placed in the rocks near the mouth of the water, and by floating nets in the bay ; and is acknowledged to be of a superior quality. It is high priced at the commencement of the fishing, and is sent principally to the London market. The fishing begins on the 2d of February, and ends on the 14th of September. It rents yearly at L. 130. Tlie price of the salmon when purchased at the fishing station varies from 2s. 6d. to 2s., Is. 6d., Is., lOd., 8d., and 6d., per pound, according to the season, the grilse and trout being proportionally cheaper. The cod and ling fishery is kept up by a fish-curer, who engages a good many of the fishermen in the parish, during the season, and employs an experienced person to dress and salt the cod and ling for the London market. The number prepared for exporta- tion yearly may be about 97 barrels, containing each 3 cwt. ; and they are sent to Montrose to be there shipped for London. This fishery commences on the 1st October, and closes on the 15th July. A trade in summer is carried on by the same person in the drying of cod, for home consumption. The haddock-fishing is also carried on to a considerable extent, and, till lately, the consumption was chiefly home consumption. In the course of last year, a few individuals formed themselves into a company for haddock curing, and made an engagement with the fishermen to supply them daily. They have hitherto been carry- ing on a very successful trade in dressing, smoking, and barrelling the haddocks for distant markets, such as those of London and Glasgow, where they have found a great demand and ready sale for them ; and they are likely to have, at the proper season, suffi- cient encouragement to enable them to keep up this establish- ment This undertaking affords many advantages to the fisher- 14 KINCARDINESHIRE. men ; — they are saved the trouble of sending the bulk of their fish inland, — they are encouraged to industry by the nature of their engagement with the curers, and by punctual payments on the spot ; and besides, there are a good many hands employed at this work, in cleaning, smoking the fish, &c who get their weekly wages regularly paid. All persons seem to be much interested in the success of this fishery. A turbot and skate fishery is also actively carried on from Ist May to 15th July, all for home consumption. There are six boats generally engaged. There was formerly a herring fishery in this parish, which was carried on successfully for several years. The herrings having gone ofi* this coast, the fish-curers were reluctantly obliged to abandon the station. Some of them, however, are again to try it this year ; and* for that purpose several boats have been engaged for the ensuing season. Success in this fishery would be of vast importance to the place, and a rich source of emolument to all en- gaged in it. Produce. — The amount of raw produce, as nearly as can be as- certained, may be as follows : Potatoes, 50 acres, L. 500 Turnips, 110 acres, 700 Hay, 40 acres. 200 Grazing, (cattle and sheep,) 65 Fisheries, 2500 Grain, 3710 Quarries, 30 Miscellaneous produce, 700 L. 8405 Manufactures, — The duck and dowlas linen weaving is carried on to a considerable extent in the town. It is kept up by mer- chants in Aberdeen, Dundee, and Arbroath, who employ a good many weavers under the direction of agents. The men, women, boys, and girls who are employed at the spinning-mills, work twelve hours five days in the week, and on Saturday only nine hours. The mill-master, who now rents both the mills for flax-spinning, had some time ago such a demand for yarn, as to be induced to carry on his work during the whole night as well as the day ; and for that purpose, he engaged spinners for the night work. But while this was found for a time advantageous to the manufacturer in point of profit, it proved peculiarly unfa- vourable to the health and morals of those employed at the mill, and it was ultimately given up ; and no man, who really wishes the BERVIE. 15 spiritual welfare and temporal comfort of his fellow-creatures, can ever desire to see the mills in operation during the hours design- ed by a gracious Providence for repose and rest A sail-cloth manufacture once existed in this parish, and was carried on for a good many years ; and a branch of kelp manu- facture was also conducted on the beach, near the rocks, success- fully, for a considerable time. It was given up a few years ago, when the duty on the barilla was repealed. There was also a bleachfield on the haughs above the bridge, where bleaching formed part of the trade carried on in the parish. This has also been abandoned. Navigation. — There are but few vessels belonging to the port of Gourdon in this parish. They are not chartered here, but have to clear out at the custom-house in Montrose. There are two shipping companies connected with the place, who generally em- ploy two schooners and three or four sloops in the lime and coal trade. A good many ships come from other ports, bringing coals, lime, pavement, tiles, slates, wood, and occasionally cattle and ponies from Orkney and Shetland ; and they leave the port either in ballast or with grain, which at present is the only export trade of the parish of Bervie. The harbour dues are exceedingly mo- derate. V. — Parochial Economy. Burgh of Inverbervie. — There is no other town in the parish but the burgh, of which the principal trade is the manufacture of linen, commonly called duck and dowlas. The retail trade carried on by merchants for the supply of the inhabitants consists of gro- cery goods, clothiery, hardware, earthen-ware, &c. A grain mar- ket was established here a few years ago, and it has been ever since carried on with the greatest success. It is frequented by ^orn-mer- chants from Montrose, Brechin, and Stonehaven ; and by farmers and millers from all the neighbouring parishes. It commences about the close of harvest, and holds every Wednesday thereafter for six months. A great deal of business is transacted. As far as can be ascertained, about 40,000 quarters of grain are purchased yearly, and the greater part of it delivered and shipped at Gourdon. This place has hitherto been well governed by a provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, nine councillors, a treasurer, and clerk. In testimony of which, it may be stated, that the magistrates of this burgh received the unanimous approbation of His Majesty's Commissioners, appointed to examine into the state of the diffe- 16 KINCAttDlNESHIRE. rent burghs in Scotland, and were applauded by them for their ju- dicious management of the funds, and the correct state of public accounts. Inverbervie now joins with Montrose, Brechin, Ar- broath, and Forfar, in returning a Member to Parliament. By the enactments in the new Municipal Bill, this, as well as other burghs, will experience a great change ; and time will only shew its work- ing, either for good or evil. If the successors of the present ma- gistrates, (who will, no doubt, come into oflSce in the course of another year,) strive to imitate their predecessors in that unanimity, fidelity, and zeal for the public good, which have distinguished all their proceedings under the old Burgh Bill, there may be yet hope for the public weal under the new regulations. The present re- venue of the burgh is about L. 120. The Fishing Village of Gourdon. — This is the only village in the parish, and it contained, when the census was taken in 1831, a po- pulation of 238 souls. It is situated at the southmost point of the parish, and is rather more than a mile distant from the burgh. It is a place rising daily into importance, by the success of the fish- eries and the increase of the grain trade. Several large and ex- cellent granaries have been erected in it, during the last eight or ten years, containing extensive sheds on the ground floors for lime, coals, &c. The granaries are capable of holding 4570 quarters grain, the lime sheds, 3200 bolls, and the coal sheds, 1 2,700 bar- rels. During the course of the last three or four years, the grain shipped at the port of Gourdon may be computed at nearly 30,000 quarters yearly, two-thirds being barley and bear, and one-third beans, pease, and oats. There are seven small boats belonging to the village, which are generally employed in the haddock and cod fishery, and manned commonly by six or seven men. There are ten larger boats, which the fishermen employ during the season for herring fishing, and manned, each, by five able bodied men, who go to the herring sta- tions about the middle of July yearly, and continue at the fishing for six weeks or two months. The yearly income of every indus- trious fisherman in Gourdon may be betwixt L. 40 and L. 50. The water, at high-tide, rises 17 feet in the harbour of Gour- don at the point of the quay; and ships, drawing 12 feet water, can enter at low tide, and lie at anchor until it make. It is in contemplation to improve this harbour, which is capable of great improvements. In its present state, eight or nine small vessels can be moored in it; and if the proposed improvements go on, they c BEllVIE. 17 will be followed by great advantages to the shipping interest, to the inhabitants of the place, and surrounding country. The quarrying of stones, which for some time past has been car- ried on a little way to the eastward of the pier, is considered by sea-faring people (if it be continued) as likely to interfere with the protection of the shipping, as the rocks, at the place, are the na- tural barriers which check the waves from the east, and ought not, on any account, to be removed. Other means of communication are, the post-office in the burgh, the turnpike road passing direct across the parish, and two daily coaches, viz. the Royal Mail from Aberdeen to Edinburgh, and the Times, from Aberdeen to Perth, which change horses at the head inn near the post-office. These are conveniences which the in- habitants of inland parishes cannot possibly possess to such an ex- tent Ecclenastical State. — The parish church, which has been al- ready noticed in a preceding part of this report, is situated on the north side of the burgh, and is very convenient for the greater part of the people. It is a new building, which was completed in 1836, and seated for 900 persons. There are upwards of fifty free sittings set apart for the poor, besides a seat for baptisms, and pews for the minister, the elders, the schoolmaster, and a choir. The agricultural tenants, by the nature of their leases, have seats free of rent. The feuars and others pay a very low rate for seats, varying from 2s. to Is. only. The manse underwent a thorough repair about forty years ago, and a small addition was made to it last year. The extent of the glebe is under five acres (Scotch measure.) It contains very productive land, and if its value were to be calcu- lated by the average rent which small fields bring in the neigh- bourhood of the town, it may be rated at per acre nearly L. 4. The stipend is paid in money and grain by the heritors, out of the parish teinds. The money stipend, including communion elements, is L. 41, 5s. ll^d. The grain stipend in bear and meal is 114 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks. There is a dissenting chapel in the burgh of the Independent persuasion. Its members belonging to this parish do not exceed five. This meeting has been in existence for about thirty years. The members, by collections and seat-rents, make up a sum of about L, 25 to the minister, ^ho has from some other sources a smaH remuneration for his trouble in itinerating and preaching in various KINCARDINE. B 18- KINCAUDINESHIRE. parishes during a few weeks in summer. Tlie whole amount of yearly income may be between L. 45 and L. 50. He is a very qu and inoifensive man, and has an earnest desire to do good. W( all ministers of his persuasion of equally peaceful habits, the would be much less discord in many parishes between churcbm and dissenter, than what generally prevails. His chapel is gen rally well 611ed on Sunday evenings by the members of the Est Wished Church. Divine service at the parish church is generally well attende There are a good many persons residing in Gourdon, and in tl burgh, who had no accommodation in the old church, and had i desire to dissent By the habit of non-attendance, they lost, in great measure, a due sense of the sacred duty of joining in publ worship ; but they are now happily coming up to the new churcl where there is excellent accommodation for all in the parish, wl sincerely wish to obey the divine command, and to profit by tl public ordinances of the gospel. The number of communican is about 470, being the average of several years. The average yearly amount of the collections made in the ol church for the poor was L. 30. An yearly collection, varying froi L. 4 to L. 5, is made for the Aberdeen Infirmary, and occasions collections are made for religious purposes, such as the Genen Assembly's schemes, &c. Education, — There are, at present, six schools in the parish, vi; one parochial school, and five private schools unendowed. Th branches of education taught at the parish school are, Englis reading, writing, arithmetic, English grammar, mathematics, Lati and Greek, &c. The teacher is a licentiate of the Church < Scotland. The first private school is also taught by a license preacher of the gospel, who has an establishment for boarder and teaches the same branches of education as those taught at th parochial school. The other private schools are all conducte by females, and they are entirely for beginners learning to rea< The salary of the parochial teacher is L. 29, 18s. 9d. He has i lieu of garden, L. 2, 2s. 9d. The amount of his school fees varic from L. 15 to L. 20. The rate of fees at the parochial school is a under : English reading, 3s. per quarter ; writing, 2s. ; Englis grammar, 5s. ; arithmetic, 4s. 6d. ; mathematics, 5s. ; Latin, 5s. Greek, 5s. The terms of board and education at the private se rainary are, for young gentlemen under ten years of age, L, 16 t^ L. 21 ; under fourteen, L. 22 to L. 25. BKRVIE. . 19 As far as is known, all boys and girls betwixt six and fifteen years of age, and all persons upwards of fifteen, are learning to read or can read, and a great proportion of them can write. The people in this parish would, no doubt, be more alive to the benefits of education afforded at the parish school, were an endow- ment to be procured for an assistant, so as to divide the labours between two teachers, the one to take charge of the elementary, and the other the more advanced classes. In such a place as the parish of Bervie, the extension of the school in this way wouTd, unquestionably, be followed by most beneficial results ; parents' prejudices would be removed ; the teachers, by a full attendance of scholars, would be more encouraged to prosecute their arduous labours, and the interests of education, in every department of use- ful and religious knowledge, would prosper. Charitable Institutions. — A Friendly Society was instituted here in 1799, for the benefit of widows and sick members. It has been productive of much good to the parish, by promoting industry, by supplying the wants of its members under sickness and old age, and by affording a small yearly aliment to widows. The number of persons belonging to this society is at present 110. The funds are under the management of a committee of members who meet quarterly. There is an annual meeting of the whole members. The rate of entry-money varies according to age, from 5s., 7s. 6d. 10s., 15s. to 17s. 6d. The yearly rate is 4s. Jd. The pre- sent yearly allowance to widows is L. 1, 4s. ; to superannuated members, L. 1, 7s. ; sick members receive weekly, 2s. 6d. The funds of this institution have been most judiciously managed; and, although now considerably diminished by the increase of widows, &C. still amount to L. 461, 14s. Id. In consequence of the unfortunate loss of a boat's crew belong- ing to Gourdon in January 1815, five widows and thirteen childr^ were left in the most destitute state. A sum of L. 240 was raised by subscription in different parishes for their relief. It was placed under the management of persons belonging to Bervie principally, who became responsible to the public for its proper appropriation. A committee was formed, and the money placed in a fund, to be managed to the greatest advantage ; and, by a well-regulated dis- tribution, the widows on this fund were kept comfortable till their families grew up. Those of them who survive are at present in independence, and there is a balance in the hands of the treasurer of L. 50, to be applied in the time of need. 20 KINCARDINESHIRE. A Society, called the Benevolent Society of Odd Fellows, was instituted a few years ago, having the same laudable object in view as the Friendly Society. As it is but in infancy, its full benefits cannot yet be known. There is no savings bank in this parish. The nearest is that of the parish of KinneiT, about two miles and a-half distant from In- verbervie. It is understood to be prospering, and small sums are sent to it from this place. Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons on the poor's roll is 15; and each receives, monthly, an allowance, varying, ac- cording to circumstances, from 8s. to ds. and 2s. 6d. There are a good many dependent families and individuals who do not wish to be put on the roll. They accordingly receive from the parochial funds occasional supplies in the time of their need. The proportion of the fund which arises from church collections is annually about L. 30; the interest of legacies is about L. 30; and there are occasional donations given by the heritors of the pa- rish and others for immediate distribution, varying from L. 50 to L. 5. There is not at present a single pauper in the parish that is subjected to the demoralizing practice of begging from door to door. The poor, therefore, belonging to this place, have great reason to be grateful to God for such an ample provision to their temporal •wants, and to rest satisfied and contented in their humble sphere under His kind providence. The princely benefaction of L. 500, by the will of the late James Farquhar, Esq. of Inverbervie, to the kirk- session for behoof of the poqr of the parish ; and the gift of L. 50 from the late Mrs Croll, to be added to the fund, place the poor (under all ordinary circumstances) beyond the reach of want. Fairs. — Two fairs are held annually on a common belonging to the town. They were established many years ago. The one always holds in May, on the Thursday before the 19th of that month, and the other on the Thursday before the 19th of Sep- tember. The first is well attended, and considered an excellent cattle market The other, in September, is not so favourable for business, as it generally interferes with the harvest In 1834, the magistrates of Bervie, with the sanction of the heritors of the pa- rish and the neighbourhood, established three additional markets in the burgh, for the feeing of servants, and for the sale of fat and other cattle. They fixed on the Wednesday before the 22d of No- vember as a market for the feeing of servants and the sale of cattle ; the Wednesday before Christmas, old style, and the Wednesday BERVIE. 21 before the 13th February, in each year, for the sale of fat and other cattle. To encourage their success, the magistrates agreed to dispense with custom for the first three years. If these markets succeed, they will be of great advantage to many persons, both in town and country. Inns. — There are two inns in the burgh where good entertain- ments are furnished on the shortest notice. At the King*8 Arms, which is the head inn, a posUchaise and gig are kept for hiring. There are other smaller inns and ale-houses licensed for retailing spirits, ales, &c. both in the town and the village of Gourdon ; and, however respectable the keepers of them may be, it is allowed by all who see the evils of intemperance, that there are too many in this parish, and that the licensing of more than what are necessary, is prejudicial in general to human character in every place. Fuel. — The fuel used by the inhabitants is English coals brought from Sunderland, and Scotch coals from ports on the Forth to the harbour of Gourdon, and sold at Is. per barrel when taken from the ship ; a little more is demanded, when taken from the sheds. The expense of carriage to the inhabitants charged by the carters isl^d per barrel. Miscellaneous Observations. The present state of this parish, as compared with that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Account, exhibits a va- riety of improvements, such as the building of the bridge which was then only contemplated, excellent roads, reclaimed land by draining, neat and comfortable new ^^houses, a weekly grain mar- ket, and an abundant supply of excellent water, in the town as well as in the village of Gourdon. The system of husbandry is now of the most improved kind. The farmers are all experienced agriculturists ; and in a very ftw years all the improvable land in the parish will be under cropping. There are three extensive farms in the parish of Bervie, Silly- flatt, Hallgreen, and Peattie,oneach of which there are four ploughs. There are four (Threewells, Hill-head, Muslepool, and the Inn- farm,) on which there is one each. There are two (Newbigging and Dendoldrum) on which there are two. The small farms and crofts are laboured by hiring. There are thrashing-mills 'driven by water on the largest farms ; and the grain on the lesser ones is thrashed h"^ flails. Rent. — The rent of land varies from L. 6 to L. 1 per acre. The boundary line between the burgh and the county, fixed by 22 KINCARDINESHIRE. his Majesty's Commissioners after the passing of the Reform W\f in 1832, is as follows : — " From the point on the east of the town at which the Benrie Water joins the sea, up the Bervie Water to the point at which the same is met by the boundary of the parish of Arbuthnott, to the point near Dendoldrum, at which the same meets the boundary, which separates the town lands from the property of Mr Farquhar, thence in a straight line to the point at which the several bounda* ries of the glebe land, the land of the town's muir, and the pro- perty of Mr Farquhar meet ; thence in a straight line through the south-western corner of the old Castle of Hallgreen to the sea- shore ; thence along the sea-shore to the point first described." May 1837. PARISH OF GARVOCK. PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JOHN CHARLES, MINISTER. • I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — In the former Statistical Account of thisparish, the name Garvock is said to be " originally Gaelic, and to signify the rugged hill" — consequently derived from the two Gaelic words Gairabh and cnoc. But, as the hill of Garvock is by no means particular- ly rugged, it is much more probable that Garvock is derived from the two Gaelic words Gairabh and/^otic, signifying the rough Marsh or Meadow ; a name which is still very descriptive of the uncul- tivated part of the parish : and must have been originally highly applicable to the whole. Extent and Boundaries, — The extreme length of the parish, from N. E. to S. W. is fully seven miles ; and its extreme breadth from N. W, to S. E. is about four miles. Its boundary line is very irregular, so that its contents do not much exceed 13 square miles. It is bounded on the N. E. by the parish of Arbuthnott ; on the S. E. by the parishes of Benholme and St Cyrus ; on the S. W. by the parish of Marykirk ; and on N. W. by the parish of Laurencekirk. Topographical Appearances, — A considerable portion of this pa- rish consists of a large hollow plain, containing about 3500 impe- rial acres. This hollow plain or basin, — situated nearly in the OARVOCK. 23 centre of the parish, is surrounded by rising grounds, on all sides, except a narrow opening towards S. E., where the romantic ravine of Den Fennel takes its rise, and by which the Howe of Garvock sends its superfluous waters to the German Ocean, through the parish of St Cyrus.* The rest of the parish, immediately surround- ing this basin, is considerably but gently undulated. A very little beyond this basin, the ground declines gently toward N. E. ; and on this side of the parish, there are two dens or ravines, through which two small streams run into the water of Bervie ; but these streams are nearly dry for some time in summer. One of these ravines, called Den of Davo, or Woodburn Den, is of considerable depth and romantic appearance in some places, and part of it has been, in good taste, planted by Alexander Wood, Esq. on whose property it lies. There is one continued range of hill, partially covered with heath, which runs along the N. W. side of the whole parish, rising gently at the east end of the parish, and ending abruptly at the west end — called the Hill of Garvock, the altitude of which is up- wards of 750 feet ; and the lowest part of the parish is about 250 feet above the level of the sea. This hill rises gently from the basin already mentioned ; but descends rather rapidly on the op- posite side, forming about a mile of pretty steep ascent from ttie Howe of the Mearns. It is the highest point of land on the east coast of Scotland, within three miles of the sea. About three- fourths of the parish lie on the S. E. side ; and one-fourth on the N. W. side of this hill. From the top of the hill of Garvock, the spectator has spread out before him, it is believed, a more extensive, delightful, and splen- did view, than is to be seen anywhere else in Scotland. From this he sees at once a considerable portion of the great valley of Strathmore, which runs nearly the whple breadth of Scotland, par- ticularly the eastern part of it, always distinguished by the name of the Howe of the Mearns, The whole charming and beautiful- ly cultivated vale of the Howe of the Mearns — about 16 miles long^^ by nearly 6 where broadest — extending through the parishes of Glenbervie, part of Arbuthnott, the whole of Fordoun, Laurence- kirk, Marykirk, and Fettercairn, studded with mansion-honses, vil- lages, fruitful fields, and thriving plantations, lies like an illumi- nated map at the feet of the spectator. What adds to the rich and • This Den takes its name from having been the retreat of Fcnella, after the mur- der of Kenneth III. 24 KINCARDINESHIRE. picturesque appearance of a part of this vale is, that about forty years ago, James Macdonald, Esq. then factor for the property of the Earl of Kintore, which is pretty extensive in this quarter, at the renewal of every lease, set apart a quarter or half ao acre close by the farm-stead, which he planted with hard-wood, larch, or spruce, most of which succeeded, and are now grown up. From this station, it is pleasant to see the extensive inroads which cultivation has made, on the steep and barren territories of the little prince of Garvock on the one side, and on those of the Grampian sovereigns on the other. Besides the extent, beauty, and variety of the landscape presented to the view of the spectator, many places famous in the history of our land, or rendered remark- able from their having been the residence of celebrated indivi- duals, may be seen from a single station on this hill. The follow- ing are a few of the more noted and prominent : From north-east to south-west, the visible horizon is bounded by the dark and heath- covered Grampians, towering over one another like rival sovereigns of the wilderness. Along this line, beginning from north, the most conspicuous points and their elevations, are Caimmaneam, 1020 feet; Kerloak, 1890 feet; Cloachnabein, 2370 feet; on the very top of this last, stands a huge rock, between 80 and 100 feet high, appearing at ten or twelve miles' distance like a ruined fortress ; Mount Battock, 3465 feet ; on the top of this, the three counties of Aberdeen, Kincardine, and Forfar, meet; Mount Keen, 3010 feet; Lochnagair, 3800 feet, sixty miles distant in Aberdeen- shire, whose elevated locks are more or less trimmed with snow, even in thesummer months. From Lochnagair, the German Ocean, from the Frith of Forth to the Murray Frith, may be seen. In the fore- ground of these, you see Strath Fennella Hill ; Cairn o' Mount and Caterthun in Angus-shire. This last is crowned with a vast circle of stones, inclosing nearly two acres, the ruins of a fortress or camp, the work of the days of other years, and which serves as a kind of weather-glass to the people in the Howe of the Mearns, from the colour it assumes from the reflecting clouds. Farther on, you observe the dark-blue mountains of Angus and Perth grouped together like the swelling waves of the ocean, till, with the lofty top of Benlomond, you lose them in the far-distant sky. Turning your eye again towards the north, and lowering it to the vale, you see more cheerful objects. The first 1 shall men- tion is Falside, the mansion-house of a small property belonging to General Forbes, about four miles from Stonehaven. Straight 3 GAUVOCK. 25 from this, through the middle of the vale, westward, you see just the tops of the trees at the village of Drumlithie, belonging to^ Gordon Esq. of Avochie ; Monboddo, the seat of Captain Burnet. Here was born his grandfather, the celebrated Lord Mon- boddo. Red hall, the seat of Carnegie of Pitarrow, where stood the mansion-house, in which the amiable, learned, and pious George Wishart was born ; who, for his pious exertions in pro- moting the Reformation, was treacherously seized, and dragged to the stake, at St Andrews, by the cruel and licentious Cardinal Beaton in 1546. The old wood of Halkerton, where long stood the mansion-house of the Barons Falconer, the ancestors of the present Earl of Kintore. They took the sirname of Falconer, from their ancestors having had the charge of the hawks and falcons of King William the Lion, about 1'200; hence, too, the name Hawkerstown, contracted now into Halkerton. Thornton Castle, the seat of the Rev. Dr Crombie. Upwards of a century ago, this belonged to the Strachans, and from it Admiral Sir R. Strachan took his title. Raising now your eye towards the east end of Strath Fennella Hill, you have a partial view of the village of Auchinblae, belong- ing to the Earl of Kintore ; and of Fordoun, the Presbytery seat, with its handsome and cathedral-looking church. This is the birth-place of John of Fordoun, the father of Scottish history, and author of the Scotichronicon. It was also the residence of St Pal- ladius, the opponent of the Pelagian heresy, and his chapel, which still stands in the churchyard, was, in the days of Popery, the resort of numerous pilgrims. In a western direction, along the foot of the Grampians, you see Phesdo, a handsome seat of Dr Crom- bie — the site of the castle and capital of Kincardineshire, where not only the Sheriff-court was held, till removed to Stonehaven by James VI., but the royal court was sometimes held, about 600 years ago. It wa§ here where Baliol surrendered to Edward I. in 1296; and the farm on which this now "deserted village" lies, is called Castletown of Kincardine. The princely mansion of Fasque, long the seat of the Baronets of Balmain, now the seat of Gladstone, Esq. A little below this you see the woods which conceal Fettercairn House, the seat of Sir J. Forbes. And hard by stand the village and church of Fettercairn. Somewhere here, it was, according to Buchanan, that Fenella, daughter of the Thane of Angus, had her delightfully situated castle, in which she mur- dered Keneth III. as he was passing on a pilgrimage to the shrine 2^) KINCARDINESHIRE. of Palladius at Fordoun in 994. Near this village you see the small property of Balnakettle, belonging to Lord Arbuthnott, where on a certain field much native iron has been found, of which not only coarse articles, but also knives and razors have been ma- nufactured* It still, however, remains an unsolved problem, how the iron came there. The apparently neat and ancient mansion of Balbegno, the property of the Honourable D. Ogilvie of Clova. Beyond this you see the thriving woods surrounding the splendid mansion of the fiurn, built by Lord Adam Gordon, who in 1780 purchased the property, consisting of 300 acres, for L. 300, the whole rental of which was then only L. 5, lis. 1/^d. and high enough, being one continued barren surface of rock, gravel, and heath, without the vestige of a tree or shrub within its boundaries. But with such skill, rapidity, and success, did his Lordship culti« vate and improve, that one of the rooms in the house of the Euro, was, in 1804, floored with larch which he had planted, on this bar- ren spot, 1782. And now the whole has become an Arcadian grove. From this, descending along the bank of the North Esk, the boundary between Angus and Meams, you see the woods of Arnhall, the property of Shand, Esq. who is like- wise proprietor of the Burn : the extensive woods of Inglianal- die, where stands an ancient mansion, a seat of the Elarl of Kin tore, long inhabited by his ancestor, Baron Falconer of Halkerton. Here you see the North Esk in his silvery stream beautifully meandering towards the German Ocean. Moving your eye now towards your own station, you see just below you the neat village and burgh of barony, Laurencekirk, which was begun by Lord Gardenston in 1765, and has now a population of 1391. It is beautifully surrounded by plantations and numerous hedge-rows. From it, about half-way up to your station, stands the handsome mansion of Johnston Lodge, the seat of A Gibbon, Esq., to whom the village and surrounding lands belong. Now reversing your position, and directing your eye towanls the north-east, you see beyond this parish, the gently undulating hills of the parish of Arbuthnott The first mansion there which catches your eye is Kair, the seat of Kinloch, Esq. From it, straight towards the sea, you have a partial view of Arbuthnott House, the seat of the Right Honourable Viscount Arbuthnott, the very patriotic Lord Lieutenant and chief Sheriff' of Kincar- dineshire. Immediately below this, you see the high point of GAllVOCK. 27 land called Bervie Brow or Craig David, commonly pronounced Craig-evie, said to derive its name from its being the place where David II. with his Queen landed from France to reclaim the Scottish crown in 1341. Its elevation is 421 feet, and is a land- mark from sea in this quarter. From this, directing your eye along the coast toward the south, you have a partial view of Benholme House, the seat of the late R. Scott, Esq. x\ little below this is very conspicuous the farm- steading of Knox, the property of Fitzmorice, Esq. ; the neat church of Benholme ; the neat farm-steading of Stone of Benholme, (the property of J. Scott, Esq. of Brotherton.) Then the rising ground between Garvock and Benholme covers the coast side till you come to the village and neat-spired church of St Cyrus. The first object in Angus-shire is the town and royal burgh of Montrose, with its spacious bay at the mouth of the South Esk. On the other side of this river, you see the church of Craig, surrounded by a finely cultivated country, beautified with plantations and numerous hedge-rows, for several miles up the right bank towards Brechin. Next, along the coast, you see Lu- nan-Bay, the Red-Head, Bell-Rock tower. Isle of May, the Bass in the mouth of the Frith of Forth, North Berwick-Law in East Lothian, Lammermuir- Hills, St Abb's Head in Berwickshire, and the Cheviot- Hills in Northumberland. All these, with a very few exceptions, may be seen from one ' station, — the Tower of Johnston. Along the top of the hill of Garvock, where it is of some breadth, there are several alternate ridges and valleys, the paral- lelism of which, from one end of the hill to the other, perhaps marks the diluvial current. The direction of these, likewise, ex- actly corresponds with that indicated in other parts of Scotland, be- ing from north-east to south-west. Climate. — Garvock had long the misfortune to be reckoned the native land of fogs, and mists, and rains, and, consequently, the most inhospitable spot of the whole surrounding district Its un- cultivated surface being spongy, had a strong tendency to retain the water which fell upon it ; and its impervious subsoil prevented the water from sinking ; so that having no open ditches nor water- courses, a constant evaporation was going on, and consequently there was a constant state of cold and humid atmosphere, with fre- quent rains, which never failed to bring with them their conco- mitant diseases, particularly ague, from which very few had the 28 KINCARDINESHIRE. good fortune to escape. To these were frequently added the chil- ling haars from the German Ocean. The appearance, which these aqueous meteors put od, i« sometimes pleasing and even sublime. Grand majestic banks of fog, particularly in harvest, a little before sunrise, appear moving slowly along the Hill of Garvock, or passing it from the east, are seen stretching in a vast and beautiful level plain, from Garvock all the way to the Grampians, completely concealing from the view the whole Howe of the Mearns, while the tops of the moun* tains alone are visible, and appear like numerous islands scattered over a smooth and silvery sea« But the first rays of , the sun have scarcely touched this delusive ocean, when, as if charmed by the magician's wand, the whole scene suddenly disappears, and a new and no less splendid vision occupies its place, — the rich and luxu- riant valley of the Mearns ! But the dark, cold, wet, and dreary days, which were formerly almost the constant portion of Garvock, have now itt a good mea- sure passed away. Its climate, indeed, is still often cold and moist, but within the last forty, nay, within the last twenty, years, it has been wonderfully meliorated, by draining and the reclaiming of waste land. Hydrography. — There are many perennial springs in this parish of excellent, cool, and transparent water, generally springing from sandstone rocks. Several of these spring not from the bottom, but drip from the face of the rock, particularly an excellent one close by the manse, called St James' well, which supplies the family with plenty of pure and excellent water, both summer and winter. There is a spring near the bottom of the hill of Garvock, on the north- west side, possessed of mineral qualities, and which has of late years been taken notice of by several persons in the neighbourhood, as beneficial to those affected with scorbutic and gravel complaints* It has never yet been chemically examined ; but, as it seems to be pretty strongly impregnated with some mineral substance, it may eventually turn out to be valuable. The only river connected with this parish is Bervie Water, which forms part of the north-east boundary. It rises in the pa^ rish of Glenbervie ; and after a winding course of about sixteen miles, passing the mansions of Glenbervie, Whiteriggs, Arbuth- nott, and Allardice, it falls into the sea at Bervie. It is an excel- lent trouting stream, and has a small salmon-fishing at its mouth. Geology. — Rocks of regularly stratified red and gray coloured GARVOCK. ?9 sandstone seem to run the whole length of the parish ; — the di- rection south-west and dip north-west at various angles from near- ly a horizontal position to 20^. The strata are of various thick- ness to upwards of twenty feet ; and alternate, when seen near the surface, with puddingstone or conglomerate. This sandstone, where most uniform in structure, often contains small rounded blocks of foreign rocks, as granite, jasper, &c In some places, the strata near the surface are soft, and when exposed to the air soon moulder into sand ; but where in contact with conglomerate, they are very hard. Over the surface of these rocks, where they present an upright face, is seen a covering of scurdy or unstratified trap, which, by long exposure to the air, has a friable appearance. The highest points in the parish are generally covered with this. In the valleys, strata of hard gravel are found of great thickness. Over almost the whole parish, are found water-worn or rolled blocks of granite, quartz, jasper, &c in such abundance, as that when a few inches of the surface are removed for the first time, the ground seems actually paved with them, fioulder stones of granite or gneiss, &c. occur in several places, but none above three feet in dia- meter. Masses of mica slate, containing garnets, are met with, but rarely. There is a considerable bed of limestone in the south- west corner of the parish, in the steep face of the Hill of Gar- vock, which seems to run into the parish of Marykirk, where it again appears at a short distance, and just opposite. The part in this parish was wrought some years ago ; but, on account of the steep and difficult access, and the stone being found to contain a considerable quantity of sand, it has been discontinued. A quarry of excellent building red sandstone has been occasionally wrought in the north-east end of the parish, in the Den of Davo ; and a stratum equally good, if not superior, was discovered about four years ago near the top and centre of the Hill of Garvock, but being found only about five feet in thickness, and dipping imme- diately under the hill, it has for some time been discontinued, on account of the expense in tirring. Peat'Moss.-r-ln this parish, there had formerly been several Dfiosses, from which peats and sods had been cut; and several tenants from neighbouring parishes had a right, from their pro- prietor being an heritor of Garvock, of coming for peats and sods. These are now almost all entirely exhausted except one, and even on it, the plough has made, and is still making, great encroach- ments. Some of the others are already converted into corn-land, 3D KINCARDINESHIRE. and one tenant occasionally opens a pit in his corn land to cut out peats from some small part of a remaining bank. SotV.— The lower grounds frequently appear to be composed of alluvial deposits, where several thin strata of sand and gravel, often considerably mixed with loamy clay, are found over a siraUun of moss; in which last there are commonly abundant remains of wood, which is likewise sometimes found imbedded in the higher grounds. The soils are generally, on the higher grounds, light and gravelly, or sandy ; on the lower, loamy ; but all originally very moist, abounding in rushes and sprots, till drains are open- ed ; for the filling of which, there is everywhere plenty of excel- lent material, — ^water-worn stones, of which every reclaimed field annually yields a plentiful crop for many years, — which, although sometimes a little troublesome, is indeed one of the advantages of Garvock, for without the aid of these stones, its naturally wet and cold surface would remain a waste and barren spot, whereas, by the judicious use of these, it can be rendered a kindly and very productive soil ; so that before it be fully drained, the shrewd saying of an old tenant here will probably be found quite correct, " there is not a useless bowl in Garvock." Zoology. — Under this branch, there is nothing very particular to remark. It may suffice, therefore, to mention a few of our rarer species of quadrupeds and birds. Tradition says that this pa- rish formerly abounded in deer. But after it was stripped of its natural wood, with which it then was covered, deer have been ba- nished for many generations. Of late, however, since our planta- tions began to raise their heads and afford some cover, Cervus ca- preoliiSy the roe, has visited his former place of abode, and made his appearance again in Garvock. Canis vulpes^ the fox, and j8fw«- tela ptitoriusy the polecat or fumart, have nearly disappeared. Mrcstela vulgaris^ the weasel, is often seen, and ErinaceusEuroptBus^ the hedgehog, is sometimes to be met with. Lepus timidusj the hare, by our absurd game laws, has become very destructive to our young wheat and turnip fields. Lepus cuniculiis^ the rabbit, a still more destructive nuisance to our corn fields, where it commits ter- rible havoc, is fast multiplying on the borders of the parish. During the severe winter of 1823, several specimens of Tetrao lagopus or ptarmigan, were seen here. This bird is rare even in the alpine regions of Braemar. Tetrao tetrixy the black grous, is to be met with in the woods of Johnston. Tetrao Scoticusy or moor- fowl, was, till lately, to be seen here. Three or four coveys or fa- GARVOCK. 31 milies of these used to be hatched annually on the eastern part of the Hill of Garvock. But about two years ago, some blood-thiFsty sportsmen persecuted them, with such persevering cruelty, that they ceased not till the last individual was brought down. VaneUus cristatusy the lapwing or twet, and VaneUus griseus^ the grey plover, are still numerous, but much reduced in number, particularly the lapwing, by our increase of cultivation. Scohpax Gallinoffo, the common snipe, of two varieties, is more numerous here than in any surrounding parishes. Emberiza nivalis^ the snow-bunting or snow- flake, and Sturnus vulgaris^ the starling, are occasional visitors. Whea Garvock was a forestj as tradition relates, no doubt her woods abounded with singing birds ; but when denuded of her na- tural wood, during her bare and barren and uncultivated state, all the feathered songsters, except the linnet and the lark, were long banished from her soil. But now, since a few plantations have be- gun to afford shelter and cover, many of the songsters of the grove have returned ; such as Turdus musicus^ the thrush ; Turdus me- ruloy the blackbird; Motacilla rubecvla^ the redbreast. And the little wood, which a former and the present incumbent have plant- ed about the manse, has procured for its inhabitants, the pleasure of hearing the song of the mavis and the blackbird in their season, and the more slender, but sweet and melodious pipe of little robin, in the fall of the year ; so that they can now join with Milton and say with delight, " Sweet is the breath of morn, her rising sweet. With charm of earliest birds." Fringilla coelebsy the chaffinch, is numerous ; Motacilla troglodytes^ the wren, is frequently to be met with. Columba palumbus^ the rii^-dove or wood-pigeon, is frequently heard cooing close by the manse. One solitary pair of Corvuspica^ the magpie, have resided close by the manse for the last twelve years, during all which time the only overt acts of felony proved against them are, that during their nursing season, when the hen-house door was left open, they sometimes stept in and helped themselves to an egg. And once they killed a little chicken, of that species which go almost quite naked for several weeks, looking very like raw flesh, and very tempting to a carnivorous propensity. One year, when some rude boys had repeatedly annoyed them in the wood, they came and built in a thorn tree, the remains of an old hedge, little more than twenty yards from the manse door ; and brought up their family as usual. Every year about the beginning of winter, they send off 32 KINCARDINESHIRE, • their young family to colonize some other quarter, and remain th(»mselves a solitary i>air as before. Botany. — Under this head, only a few of our rarer plants shall be mentioned. Pamassia palmtris^ grass of Parnassus ; TroUiui EuropcBusy lucken gowan ; Asphodelusj king's spear. These three adorn the sloping sides of the Hill of Grarvock, here and there, in beautiful patches. The first by its neat, large, and delightful, white and striated cup ; the second, by its beautiful large and yel- low nodding globe ; and the third, by its handsome spike of golden- coloured flowers. The following likewise are found in a few places : Drosera rotundifolia, sun-dew ; Digitalis purpurea, foxylo?e ; Atiemone nemorosa^ wood anemone ; Geranium sanguineum, bloody crane's bill ; Genista anglica^ carlin's spurs ; Hypericum pulchmnij St John's wort ; Antirrhinum repensy creeping toad-flax ; Iris pseu^ dacorusy yellow flag ; Geum rivale^ herb Bennet ; Trifolium pra^ tense and repens^ red and white trefoil. This is supposed to im- part that peculiar richness of flavour, for which Garvock butter is noted, although Garvock cheese has no favourable character.* All that remains of its natural wood, now to be found growing in the pa- rish, consists in a few stunted hazels, sloes, and willows in two or three places. The small extent of wood hitherto planted in the pa-* rish, consists principally of larch, spruce, and Scots firs, although the few trees of hard-wood, as ash, beech, and plane, which have been occasionally planted in the lower grounds, seem to thrive pret- ty well. Of the firs, the spruce seems to thrive best ; indeed, the Sc^ts fir, and particularly the larch, very often fail here, owing, perhaps, to one or more of three causes,-^ want of shelter, too much moisture, or, in shallow ground, the roots being cankered by salt of iron. Slight draining may cure the second, and trenching or mak- ing pretty large pits, and exposing the soil for six or twelve months before planting, may cure the last. 11. — Civil History. Uniform tradition says, that this parish was a forest or hunting- park, and part of the wide extended property of Earl Marischal, of whom it is said, that he could travel from Berwick to John- o'Groat's, breakfast and dine every day, and sup and sleep every • Hence came the following anecdote : — About fifty years ago, the thrifty good- wife of a small tenant in this parish, whose house happened to be built on the very boundary line between this paiish and that of Laurencekirk, used to carry her but- ter and cheese to market, but soKl the former for Garvock butter, and the latter for Laurencekirk cheese ; and when challenged for want of veracity, declared &he did so with a safe conscience, for her butter was always made in the Garvock end, but the cheese always in the Laurencekirk end of the house. OAUVOCK. 33 flight, on his own property ; and that about the place where the church now stands, he had a small house for his accommodation, when hunting. That the Keitji family had been some way con- nected with this parish, appears probable from this, that at the east end of the old church, within, was erected a funeral monu- ment, at the bottom of which are the initials and date R. 1666. K. ; above this, is a shield or coat-of-arms, surmounted by a crest, being a hand holding a burning torch, over which is a motto usta^ but the second word is defaced. Over this, is the date 1679, sur- mounted by a cherub. The stones composing this monufnent have been built into the east gable wall of the new church, but so absurdly as to be above the ceiling. It is highly probable that this pointed out the burying-ground of some branch of the Keith or Marischal family, whose honours and lands were forfeited in 1715 only. Whether all the land of Garvock ever belonged to the fa- mily of Arbuthnott, the writer is not certain ; but it is certain from Crawford's Peerage, that Hugh Arbuthenoth, Le Blond, Laird of Arbuthnott, in 1282, bestowed the patronage of Garvock on the Abbey of Arbroath, " for the safety of his soul," which patronage, with many others, in consequence of the Reformation, fell into the hands of the King. The particulars of the gift are these : — ** To the Abbot and Convent of Aberbrothock, in pure and perpe- tual alms of one oxengate of land, lying adjacent to the church of Garvock, with the right of patronage of the said church, and pas- turage for 100 sheep, 4 horses, 10 oxen, s^nd 20 cows — Aberbro- thock, 4to nonas Aug. 1282." Liand'Owners. — The whole property of the parish is divided among eight heritors, which are, according to their valued rents. The Earl of Kintore ; R. Taylor, Esq. of Kirktonhill ; J. Scott, Esq. of Brotherton ; Dr Badenach, Esq. of Arthurhouse ; Alex- ander Wood, Esq. of Davo or Woodburnden ; Alexander Forrest, Esq. of TuUochs ; Viscount Arbuthnott ; and Alexander Gibbon, Esq. of Johnston. Parochial Registers. — It appears from a minute of'session, July 22, 1743, that when the Rev. Mr Muirson resigned his charge to his assistant and successor, Mr Smith, he gave up a register of the time of his predecessor, Mr Milne, declaring that he never saw any register of the time of Mr Auchterlaunie ; that he likewise gave up three volumes of register of his own time. But, owing to the carelessness of succeeding clerks, or their bad accommodation, the greater part of these are now lost, and the oldest fragments which remain are dated 1 7 17. At that time, they seem to Kaveb^^w KINCAllDINE, C 34 KINCARDINESHIRE^ written in a neat old hand, accurately kept, and strict discipline observed. No separate cash-book was used till February 1702; but collections and disbursements «were entered in words at length on the same page with minutes, and accounts kept in Scottish mo- ney till January 5, 1772. ♦ - Antiquities. — That Garvock had, at a former period, been a forest or hunting-park well stocked with deer, as tradition has con- stantly handed down, appears highly probable ; for the remains of a substantial fence along the north-west side of the parish, called the Deer^dykcj are well remembered by old people ; although thej have now nearly all disappeared under the plough. In a hollow on the east side of the parish, is said to be the place where the sheriff was boiled. The tradition is this, and affords a sad specimen of the barbarity of the times of James L, about 1420. Melville, the laird of Glenbervie, and sheriff of the Meams, had, by a strict exercise of his authority, rendered himself obnoxious to the surrounding barons, who having teased the King by repeated complaints against him, — at last, in a fit of impatience, the King said to Barclay, laird of Mathers, who had come with another com- plaint, " Sorrow gin that sheriff were sodden and supped in brie.** — ^' As your Majesty pleases," said Barclay, and immediately with- drew — went and assembled his neighbours, the lairds of Lauriston, Arbuthnott, Pitarrow, and Halkerton — appointed a great hunting match in the forest of Garvock, to which they kindly invited the devoted Melville. An4 having privately got ready a large kettle of boiling water in a retired place, they decoyed unsuspect- * The following are fpccimens :— Ganrock Kirk, Dec. 24, 1721 — « (Short abstract of 2 minutes.) Mary Douglas, at Hill of Johnston, delat'd, suranion*d, and appeared before the session for aooUinf and cursing her neighbour-wife on Sabluith morning — confessed scolding and calling names, and ' in her passion did imprecate on herself/ but denied cursing her neigh- bour.— Two witness examined on outh, confirmed her confession.— Condemned to stand before the congregation next Lord's day.** Ganrock Kirk, July 20, 1725.—" Geo. Charles in Sooty wells, delated, summoned, and appeared before the session, and for being drunk in the parish of St Cyrus,— signed an obligation to pay L. 4 Scots, * lotieM qtwties,' into the poor's box, if he should be drunk again.** Garvock Kirk, June 30, 1728.—" The poor*s box was inspected, and found to con- tain * twentie four pounds Scots in doyts.' *• Garvock Kirk, April 8, 1744 — " The minister lectured and preacht. Day being stormy the people did not frequently convene. Collected five shillings.*' <' Disbursed to James Craik, in a strait, one pound two shillings.** Garvock Kirk, Nov. 8, 1745 — •' The minister lectured and preacht. The troubles of the countrie by the increasing Rebellion, having from many places brought up strangers, the collection was three pounds, three shillings Scots.*' Garvock Kirk« Jan. 26, 1746 — ** The minister being carried off prisoner be the Jacobite partie in arms, there was no sermons here." Garvock Kirk, Feb. 23, 1746.—" The minister being attending His Royal High- ness William Duke of Cumberland, there was no sermons here.*' GARVOCK. 35 ing Melyille to the fatal spot, knocked him down, stripped him, and threw him into the boiling kettle. And after he was boiled or sodden for some time, they took each a spoonful of the soup. To screen himself from royal justice, Barclay built that fortress in the parish of St Cyrus, called the Kaim of Mathers, on a perpendi- cular and peninsular rock, sixty feet above the sea, where, in those days, he lived quite secure. The laird of Arbuthnott claimed and obtained the benefit of the law of clan Macduff, which, in case of homicide, allowed a pardon to any one within the ninth degree of kindred to Macduff, Thane of Fife, who should flee to his cross, which then stood near Lindores, on the march between Fife and Strathem, and pay a fine. The pardon is still extant in Arbuth- nott House. On the fate of the other conspirators, the voice of tradition has died away. The field, where this horrid deed hap- pened, still retains the name of firownie's Leys ; because from the murderous deed then perpetrated, it was long supposed to be haunted by the sprites called Brownies. On the summit of the Hill of Garvock, there are two large cairns, the relics of Druidism, about a mile asunder. The larger is fifty yards in diameter, and must have been a magnificent struc- ture in its day. It had been carefully surrounded by a ring of large blocks of freestone, which are now covered by the stones of the cairn falling down and over them. On these, the Druids or heathen priests lighted great fires at certain seasons, in honour of their god Beil, the sun, the same as the Scripture Baal ; and whom they worshipped likewise, in groves, as well as on these high places, just as did the idolatrous Moabites, Philistines, Canaan- ites, and Chaldeansj and into this sin the children of Israel often fell, Judges c. ii. v. 11 and 13, and c iii. v. 7, and c. x. v. 6. These fires were lighted and assemblies held at the cairns, both for reli- gious and judicial purposes; for the Druids (Caesar, 1. 6. c xiii.) were the supreme judges in all matters, civil as well as religious, allowing supremacy to the king or chief only in trifles and outward show, as permitting him to have seven colours in his mantle, while they used only six, but allowed only four to the nobility. These fires were lighted particularly on their two great festivals. The first was La Beiltin^ the day of Beil's fire, t. e. the 1st of May, the beginning of their year, when great rejoicings were held for the return of the new year, and to implore a blessing on the pro- duce of the year. Among other ceremonies, putting part of a mix- ture of meal, milk, and eggs, &c. on a piece of bread, they threw it over the left shoulder, saying each time, " This is to 'joxx^ O m\s\s 36 KINCARDINESHIRE. and storms, spare our pastures and our com ; this is to thee, eagle, spare our lambs and our kids ; this is to you, O fox and fal- con, spare our poultry," &c. The second was LaSamVinj the day of the fire of peace, i. e, the 1st of November. This was the most solemn of all their festivals, when the Druids (Caesar, 1. 6. c xiii.) met at the most centrical cairn to hold rejoicing for finishing the harvest, and to maintain the peace by adjusting every dispute and deciding every controversy. Then, too, all were obliged to ex- tinguish their fires on the preceding evening, and come for a sup- ply of the consecrated fire on the cairn. But of this, no person who had failed in duty, could obtain any share, till he had made every reparation required by the Druids. If he was refractory, the sen- tence of excommunication was pronounced against him, which was worse than death. None durst afibrd him shelter, or fire, or food, or any office of humanity, under pain of the same sentence being passed upon themselves. Here the Druids showed their wisdom or cunning, in fixingtheirassizes to thisseason, when every man'sown feelings prompted him to submission; and this secured their power and the public peace, better than all our modem courts of justice. On these two occasions, the Druids ofiered bloody sacrifices, and that their victims consisted not only of beasts but of men, is clear from Caesar, 1. 6, c xvi., Tacitus, Annal. 1. 14, c. v., and Pliny, Nat. Hist. 1. 30, c i. Two fires being kindled from one another, says Toland, the men and beasts to be sacrificed were made to pass between these fires, by way of consecration. Hence the Gae- lic proverb, — the jeopardy of Beil, or between Beil's two fires, ue. the most dreadful danger, from which escape would be miraculous. Hence our bonfires, &c. at May- day and Hailoweven. Hence, too, our rejoicing at harvest home, as in many places of Scotland called the kirn, a corruption of cairn. Sometimes it is called Clayock, a corruption of Cailoch, the Gaelic of carlin or old toife. Bloody sacrifices had their origin from Divine appointment, im- mediately after the fall, as a memorial of sin, and a type of that all- sufficient sacrifice of the Cross, which was to do it away. And the covering which God gave to our first parents, taken from their vie- tims slain in sacrifice, was a striking emblem of that righteousness to be wrought out by Christ, which would cover the moral naked- ness of every true penitent. But although the fear of punishment from a sense of sin remained, yet fallen and depraved nature soon corrupted this solemn and expressive rite by the most shocking crimes. Indeed, history proves that almost every nation under Heaven, in their uncivilized state, at one time offered human sacri- GAUVOCK. 37 fices. So common was the practice among the surrounding na- tions, that God's chosen people, although warned and strictly pro- . hibited, Deut. c. xviii. v. 9, 10, yet were ensnared and often join- ed in this shocking crime, Psal. cvL v. 37, 38. The only names for Whitsunday and Hallo woven in Gaelic, are La Beiltin and La Samh'in ; nay the writer of this has repeat- edly heard old people, even in the Mearns, use the name Beiltin for Whitsunday, quite ignorant of its meaning or origin. On the larger of the two cairns mentioned above, the late J. Far- quhar, Esq. of Johnston, on whose property itlies, erected a neat hol- low tower of substantial mason- work, about thirty feet high, with a winding stair inside to the top, from which there is a most exten* sive and charming view. About seven years ago, there was a cairn on a knap or knoll in the lower part of the parish, on the farm of Upper Tulloch, from time immemorial called the Priest's Cairn. In the progress of Gar- vock improvements, this cairn was converted into road metal, and a distinct Druidical circle, consisting of twelve large stones, was found under it, and within the circle a stone coffin, composed of slabs of freestone, not deposited in a pit or grave, but simply^set upon the surface of the ground and covered by the cairn. In the coffin, nothing was found but unctuous black earth, and four little white substances exactly resembling human teeth, but so soft as to write on a slate like pencil. It is not easy now to conjecture why the circle contained a coffin and was covered by a cairn, for a circle of upright stones, consisting of seven, twelve, or nineteen, referring to the days of the week, the months in the year, or the cycle of the moon, with all which the Druids were acquainted, (Caesar, 1. 6. c. 14,) was the ordinary place of Druidical worship, as the cairn was on more solemn occasions. The circle or common Druidical temple was erected in a grove, commonly of oaks. The calm was erected on high places. Indeed, it is clear from Scripture, the best of all evidences, that these or something like these were the plain and simple places of worship in the earliest ages. In Gen. xxviii. 18, you find Jacob set up a pillar as a place of wor- ship at Bethel. In Exod. xxiv. 4, you find Moses, before he had received any command concerning the tabernacle, which was af- terwards the place of worship, built an altar and surrounded it with twelve .stone pillars ; and during the separation of the ark and tabernacle in the days of Samuel, Saul, and David, worship of the true God in high places was permitted, 2 Chron. i. 3. 1 Sam. ix. 19. But when these places had beeu de^Q:\:^\»4L\iJ^ 38 KINCARDINESHIRE. the worship of Baal and other idols, and the shocking crime of human sacritices by the Canaanites, the children of Israel were commanded to destroy them ; Numb. xxxiiL 52. Deut. xiL 2, 3; to break down their altars and pillars in high places, and to bum their groves with fire. On the north end of the hill of Garvock, there is another Drui- dical cairn on the farm of Sootywells, about the half of which was removed some years ago ; but nothing remarkable found. About half a mile farther on, there is another of the same kind on the farm of Arthurhouse, but much larger, and which in its day had been equal in magnificence to the cairn of Johnston. Some years ago, about three-fourths of it was removed, and converted into metal for the roads. It was then found that, similar to the cairn of Johnston, it was surrounded by a ring of large stones set close together on edge, from two to three feet high ; but which were quite covered by the stones of the cairn falling down and over them, so thaf the cairn eiLtended about four feet beyond the rioj^ which was composed chiefly of blocks of granite. On one side^ there was found a stone coffin composed of freestone slabs within the ring, but quite close to it on the surface, containing nothing but a kind of fine impalpable earth. At one place, on the outside of the ring, were found among the stones upwards of twenty cobs» seemingly silver, but many of them so worn or corroded, that the workmen broke several of them between their fingers. There was one pretty well preserved of Alexander L, dated 1107, and an- other of Robert (Bruce) I. about 1320. They were all given to Dr Badenach, the proprietor, who handsomely rewarded the work- men. There was likewise found a silver broach of ancient work- manship in the cairn. The part of the cairn which Dr Badenach caused to be reserved is about 20 feet diameter ; and his tenant, Mr Milne, voluntarily gave upwards of half an acre round it, which being enclosed and planted adds much to the beauty of the place, and will preserve this relic of Druidism untouched to future ge- nerations. On the east side of the parish, on the farm of Nether Tul- loch, the present tenant, having observed near the bottom of a sloping field, which had been long in cultivation before his time, three hillocks, forming a triangle whose sides were about 40, 60, and 60 yards, more gravelly and always yielding a more slender crop than the rest, was induced a few years ago to ex- amine the cause, and had not gone above two feet deep till he came to a stone coffin in each of the hillocks. Each coffin, which GARVOCK. 39 was about four feet long, two broad and two deep, contained an urn of baked red clay standing at the bead or west end, containing only a little black earth. Two of the coffins contained nothing else ; but the third, besides the urn, contained a complete human skeleton, with the leg, thigh, and arm-bones, all parallel to the spine, the knees having been folded up to the breast on account of the shortness of the coffin. Now, as we know that all the heathen nations of Europe, the Greeks, Romans, and Celts, burned their dead, reserving their ashes in an urn placed in the sepulchre, but when converted to Christianity, they abhorred the practice and interred the body entire, — is it not probable, that this had been the skeleton of a Christian, deposited in the grave and coffin of an heathen ancestor ? On the neiLt farm, Forth, about a quarter of a mile distant, there was, till a few years ago, a cairn about 12 yards diameter, surrounded by a fosse or ditch even then about four feet deep, giving it somewhat the appearance of a little fort; and hence, probably, the name of the farm. Forth, a little corrupted. When this cairn was removed by the present tenant, a stone coffin was found in it composed of slabs of freestone set upon the surface of the ground and covered only by the cairn. It contained nothing but an urn similar to those found on the neighbouring farm, and containing only a little black earth. The site of this cairn, as well as that on Upper TuUoch, is now converted into com land. It is worthy of remark, that all the coffins found here, both under ground and under cairns, were placed directly east and west, as our graves are at the present day. 8ince this parish, in the time of Druidism, had its high places so well furnished with sacred cairns, the more solemn places of worship, it cannot be doubted, but that it had been equally well provided with its circular temples for ordinary worship in sacred groves. But they, being quite ready and convenient for building stones, have all long since been removed, as the cairns too in pro- cess of time may be. A steep bank or brae on the face of the hill of Garvock, about half a mile from the church, from time im- memorial, has been called the Gallowbanky probably from being the spot where the gallows stood in feudal times, when every baron had the power of pot and gallows in his own lands. That the Celts or Gael inhabited this part of Scotland is evi- dent from the names of many farms in this parish, clearly Gaelic : e. ff. Davo (Tighe-bho) the cattle-house; TuUoch (Tuilich) the hillock; Balhagarty ( BaUna-tagart ) tlie (jrieat's Vwiw 40 KINCARDINESHIRE. Culairdo (Cvl-ard^dhu) the back of the black height ; Shells, (Shealing^) a temporary house still common in some parts of the Highlands, erected for the dairymaid and herds, when the cows were sent to pasture at a distance from the farm-stead for some months in summer. Hence the expressive Scottish name for a house not very wind nor water tight, a cauld sheiL Indeed, the Gaelic language, though long since banished to the Highland glens and mountains of the west of Scotland, was the court lan- guage in the reign of Malcolm HI. who died 1093, and spokeD in a parliament held at Ardchattan in the reign of Robert (Bruce) L, who died 1329. On the hill of Garvock, close by the stance of the annual fair, there is an oblong cairn, neatly surrounded by an edging of turf, which, tradition says, marks the graves of two merchants who quar- relled, fought and killed one another, and were buried in the spot where they fell upwards of a century ago. There are likewise, on the very top of this hill,* in one or two places, now quite covered with heath, small fields which had been under the cultivation of the plough, and that for a considerable length of time, the ridges being raised high by the old plan of constant gathering. This may, however, have been when the lower grounds were covered with wood and marshes. There is no manufactory in the parish, and only one meal mill, which is situated on the water of Bervie, at the Jf. E. point of the parish. « HI. — Population. When this parish was a forest or hunting-park, its population, if any, must have been small. The earliest census on record is that ascertained by Dr Webster, when preparing his calculations for the Widows' Scheme of the Church of Scotland in 1755. From that time, the population has stood as follows. In the year 1705, the population was 755 ITUI, 460 1801, 4G8 1811, 485 1821, 450 18.')!, 473 The great decrease of 282 seems to be chiefly owing to two causes : Firsts the throwing of two or more small farms into one. Secondly^ the great farmers banishing their cottars, by taking from them their little croft and cow. But the want of these cottars is now often felt in the time of turnip-hoeing, and in hay and grain harvest, there being no town nor village in this parish ; and several farmers again creeling coU^v^^s (or their married sen^ants, (iAllVOCK. 41 seems to be one cause of the increasing population for the last for- ty years. The following is a tabular view of proclamations for seven years, shewing the number, when both male and female were in this parish, and the number when either male or female was in another parish. No. of Froclamatiotts. M. and F. both M. or F, in Total No of Year. in thit pariah, another pariah. proclamatiofu, M. fT 1629, .3 -211-5 IBdO, .3 -10 1-4 1831, - 3 -10 1-4 1832, - 4 -202-6 1833, .1 - 2 2 - 3 1834, .2 -211-4 1835, - 4 - 2 2 - 6 Average, - 4j^. A tabular view of baptisms for seven years from the writer's private register. Year, MaUt. Females. Total Year. Males. Females. Total. 1829, 3 10 13 1833, 5 6 11 1830, 5 7 12 1834, 11 2 13 1831, 4 13 17 1835, 2 5 7 1832, 4 6 10 Average, - lllf. From the above, it appears that the female births very conside- rably exceed those of the males. This seems contradictory of the generally acknowledged fact, that, as men are engaged in more hazardous employments than women. Providence balances this by the more numero,us births of the former. But this may in some measure be accounted for, by the almost constant shifting of mar- ried farm-servants. The average number of deaths in this parish, for the last seven years, is about 3. It is rather a curious fact, that, for the first eighteen months after the writer was settled, there was no grave opened in the church-yard of Garvock. The following is a tabular view of the population by the census taken in 1831, from 1 to above 70 years of age and upwards. Between Above 1 and 15. 15 and 30. 30 and 50. 50 and 70. 70. Total. Males, 109 59 48 21 3 240 Females, 91 60 55 25 2 233 Population, 200 119 103 46 5 473 At the time of the last census the number of families were 93 Average number of children in each, - - 3 bachelors above 50, - - 2 widowers above 50, - - 2 inhabited houses, - - 90 uninhabited, - - - 5 unmarried women above 45, - 5 Illegitimate births during the last three years, - - 2 42 KINCARDINESHIRE. This parish can boast of no family of noble blood within its boundaries, not even of a residing heritor ; nor is there any dwel- ling commonly called a mansion-house in it. The whole eight proprietors are each possessed of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards. Character of the People,- — In their general character, the people are quiet, industrious, and regular in attendance on divine ordinan- « ces ; and they pay much more attention to cleanliness and neat- ness in their persons and dwellings, than formerly. Although there be nothing foolishly showy, yet the outward appearance of the congregation, on a Sabbath, forms a striking, pleasing^ and re- spectable contrast to what it was forty years ago. Now the la- bouring classes, both males and females, appear in church as neat- ly and respectably dressed, as the laird's or minister's £Eunily did then. Indeed this is often carried too far. Comparatively few young men or women of the labouring classes, while they remain unmarried, ever think of saving any part of their wages ; and, therefore, enter on house-keeping without any previous provision for the probable expenses of their humble establishment. Hence that poverty but too generally prevails, which might, in a good measure, be prevented, by prudently laying up, in the Savings Bank, a small moiety at every term. Neither poaching nor smuggling is known among the parish- ioners ; but the Hill of Garvock is often infested with poachers from other quarters. That vile and demoralizing system of banishing male servants from the Aa' hoard to bothies^ or apartments where they must eat as well as sleep by themselves, has unfortunately found its way in- to this sequestered parish. It may be advantageous in a pre$ent or economical point of view ; but is most disadvantageous for mo- ral, intellectual, and religious improvement. In fact, many of them are really hot-beds of irreligion, immorality, and vice ; and, consequently, of mischief and ruin not only to the rising genera- tion, but to society in general. IV. — Industry. Males employed in agriculture, - - 240 reuil trade and handicraft, 12 Professional and educated men, . . 3 Male servants above 20 years old, • - 112 under 20 years old, - - 17 Female servants, .... 40 Agriculture. — The whole contents of this parish amount to 8466 imperial acres, which may be classed as follows : — GARVOCK. 43 ContenU of the parish. . - 8466 Cultivated, - - 2900 Improvable, - 2540 Unimprovable, - . 2926 Under wood, planted, • 100 8466 The little wood which is in the parish, as has been already no- ticed, is all planted, and great part of it being yet young, yields but little annual income. Rent of Land. — The average rent of cultivated land through the parish is about L. 1 per imperial acre. No cattle or shee|) grazed in this parish by the season ; all pasture grass being con sumed by the cattle reared and fed by the occupiers of land, ex- cept those who have some extent of hill •pasture, which is com- monly let for three or four months from Martinmas to April, for sheep from the Grampians, not by the acre, but by the piece, as parties can agree, according to the extent and quality of the pas- ture. Mate of Wages, — The average rate of wages for unmarried ser- vants employed in agriculture, by the half-year, is, for a man L4 5, 10s., for a boy, L. 1, 15s., both summer and winter; for a woman L. 3 in summer, and L. 2 in winter, with victuals, or 2 pecks of meal a week for a man, and 1^ peck for a boy, with one pint of sweet milk daily. Married men get L. 6 in money, 6^ bolls meal, one pint of sweet milk daily, a house and kail-yard for a year. In harvest, a man gets L. 2, 10s., a woman L. 2, with bed and board ; reapers dd. or d^d. a threave. But it has become quite common now to cut down the crop with the scythe at 10s. per acre. A labourer gets Is. 8d. in summer, and Is. 3d. in winter ; a woman gets 8d. in summer, and 6d. in winter, without victuals ; masons 2s. in summer, and Is. lOd. in winter; carpenters much the same, both without victuals. Such has been the average of wages for some time past, but now that manufactures and railroads have started so briskly, wages are fast advancing. A plough costs L. 3 ; a cart L. 15 ; a pair of harrows L. 2 ; a gang of horse-shoes 3s. Live-Stock, — Farm or work-horses are generally bought in the west country, but of late years a great part have been reared at home. The long-horned cattle, so common formerly, are now completely banished, and few are to be seen but the black dodded Angus, with a mixture of Aberdeenshire breed. If calves begin to show horns, they are cut when about six weeks old, which prevents all after-growth. Black, or brown, or branded, are the most esteem- ed colours. Indeed, cattle is the staple commodity here, and is 44 KINCARDINESHIRE. equal, perhaps, to fully one-third of all the other produce of the farm. Within the last thirty years, much attention has been paid to improve the breed, both of horses and cattle ; and towards this, agricultural associations have aided much. The convenience of sending marketable live-stock to London by steam-vessels is look- ed forward to with much pleasure. No sheep are reared in this parish. Husbandry. — The convertible system of husbandry is universal- ly followed. The four, five, six, and seven shifts are tried, but the five and six are the most common, t. e. two years grass, one year oats, one year turnips, one year barley with grass seeds ; or two years grass, two years oats, one year turnips, one year barley with grass seeds. Oats, Chester, and barley, or bear, are the grains com- monly raised, and a change of seed every fourth year is found very beneficial. Wheat and pease do not generally succeed. Beans are beginning to be tried, and seem to do pretty well. A considerable breadth of potatoes is now always planted. The purple and the speckled, or large American as it is called, are found generally the best and most profitable crop. A few partial failures of the pota- toe crop have happened within these two years, but not from seed raised in the parish. A few tares are commonly sown for green fodder for horses and cows, towards the end of the year. The agricultural part of operations is, in general, conducted with much skill and neatness. Lime, until peace prices with war rents took place, was plentifully applied, which in most cases answered well, particularly with newly reclaimed land and sown grass, but is now much more sparingly used. Bone-dust is becoming gene- rally used in part for turnips, which seems to answer pretty well with them, but a half dunging is found necessary for the next crop with grass seeds. The usual duration of leases is nineteen years. The tenant is bound to the rules of good husbandry, but is gene- rally allowed to consult his own advantage, unless where some very unfair dealing appears. Farm-buildings, with a few exceptions, are but very indifferent ; and there are hardly any inclosures in the parish, except temporary ones of paling, which have now become common, and are found to be more advantageous in every respect, than to have the corn eaten, and the cattle constantly driven about by a careless and merciless boy. An active spirit of improvement has prevailed here particularly for the last twenty years, and much waste ground has been reclaimed and brought into full cropping during that time. To some ferms, from GARVOCK. 45 twenty to thirty acres have been added, within the last fifteen years, by tenants. Two or three farms, being retained for sometime in the proprietor's own hand, have been considerably improved ; but tenants have done, and are still doing, much. There is ample scope for improvetnent here ; and the want of capital, and of en- couragement by proprietors in aiding to drain and lime, are the reasons why so much ground, quite capable of profitable improve- ment, still lies waste. Viscount Arbuthnott, to whom a small cor- ner of this parish belongs, has given good encouragement to his tenant ; and it appears not only in the improved face of the farm, but in the increased quantity and qualky of its produce. Produce, — In stating the amount of the raw produce, exactness and accuracy can hardly be attained. The utmost to be expected is only an approximation. A general view of it may be stated as$ follows, taking the sixth shift as an average : CulUTated^ 2900 Imperial acres. } 1450 grain crop, at L. 0, \ 483^ green crop, at L. 3, \ 48d|- hay crop, at L. 4, ^ 483^ pasture, at L. 1, Wood, . 100 at 5s. ... Total value of raw produce, Valued rent, Scott, . . * . . Real rent in 1822, Sterling, upwards of V. — Parochial Economy. MarkeUTown, — No town nor village in the parish. The near- est principal market-town is Montrose, distant from the centre of the parish about eleven miles, to which most of the grain and dairy produce of this parish is carried for sale. But of late, a regular grain market has been established at the royal burgh of Bervie, distant only about five miles, where a good deal of grain from this parish is sold, and frequently shipped at Gourdon, a small fishing village near Bervie. Means of Communication, — The post-office nearest to this pa- rish is Laurencekirk, where a foot-post arrives every morning from Montrose, and departs for the same every afternoon. It is distant about two and a-half miles from the centre of this parish. The access to and through this parish was long difficult, both on ac- count of the steepness of its surface and the wetness of its soil, and therefore long retarded all improvement. The only roads through the parish, about fifty years ago, were literally cart-roads; the only operation of forming they had ever undergone, having been that of L.8700 1450 . 1933 483 6 6 8 8 . 273 6 25 L. 12864 2842 3000 19 11 "4 46 KINCARDINESHIRE. the horses' feet and the cart wheels. But some years ago, two commutation roads have been made to intersect the parish breadth- ways ; the one coming from the turnpike in the Tillage of Laurence- kirk, and the other coming from the same turnpike about four miles further east, and both leading down to the coast-side turnpike, which has opened up a direct and comparatively easy communica- tion between the Howe of the Mearns and the coast side through this parish. Besides these, several other cross roads have been made through the parish, so that our principal bar to improvement has, in a good measure, been removed ; and, to the credit of the tenants in Garvock, the sivface clearly proves that they have not neglected the opportunity afforded them. Ecclesiastical State. — Concerning the early history of the chuFch of Garvock, tradition is silent. In the churchyard, which contains about three-fourths of an acre, the ground in Garvock, when it was set apart, not being so valuable as it is now, the oldest grave- stone is dated 1643, '^ In memory of William Greig*" (a smith,) *^ ane famous honest man." The church is nearly centrical. The present house was built in 1778, neatly seated, with two galleries, and ceiled, and can accommodate about 300 sitters. No seats let, the whole having been divided among the heritors according to their valued rents, and by them divided among their tenants. The roof has undergone various reparations, and is at present in a pretty good state. A stone in the wall, taken from her predecessor, bearing the date of 1678, shows that she had stood just one hundred years. The manse, although no date on it, is fixed by a traditionary story to have been built about 1745. A tenant of the name of Strachan in the parish, an Episcopalian, or non-jurant, as they were then called, and whose son was bred an Episcopal clergyman, is said to have frequently called on the masons then building the manse, and interested himself much in the arrangement of the workmanship, as thinking himself quite sure, that should the Pre- tender, then in the field, prove victorious, this manse would become the habitation of his own son. But the battle of Culloden de- termined matters otherwise. The manse and ofiices have under- gone frequent repairs ; the last was in 1822, and they are at present in a tolerable good state. The glebe contains nearly 6 acres arable, which most conve- niently surround the church, manse, and ofiices on three sides, and about 2 acres pasture, which shut up the fourth or north-east side. Most of the arable part consists of a good deep black loamy GARVOCK. 47 schL The pasture lies in a den close by, and watered by a small stream. A very few ash and plane trees, planted by a former in- cmnbenf about eighty years ago, having been cut down in 1804, there was not a tree to he seen within miles of the manse, till the next incumbent planted a narrow belt, principally of larch, along the north-east side of the pasture, which added much to the shelter and beauty of the place. And the present incumbent has freely added his mite towards the improvement of the glebe and em- bellishment of the place, by planting larch, spruce, and hard-wood in the den about the manse and church-yard, which is rendering the place a paradise compared to what it was thirty years ago. The glebe may be valued at L. 10 yearly. Besides the glebe, there is a triangular piece of ground, of about two acres in extent, a few hundred yards firom the glebe, and sur- rounded by land belonging to others, which has been in the pos- session of the minister time out of mind, called the Minister's Moss. As a moss it was long since exhausted, and laid bare to the very bones, and for many years has been of hardly any value even as pasture ; but the present incumbent, after putting about 160 roods of drains into it, has turned It into arable land, and has at present an excellent crop of wheat upon it for his first crop. The stipend, by last augmentation in 1820, amounts to L. 159, t2s. 4Jd. in money; 19 bolls, 2 firlots, 3 pecks, d| lippies, meal; 3 bolls, 3 firlots, 1 peck, I lippyy bear. Average amount for the last seven years about L. 178. The teinds are exhausted. There is only one place of worship in the parish. The number of fami- lies belonging to the Establishment is 92. One family, consist- ing of an old man and his daughter, attend the Berean meeting in Laurencekirk. There is one Episcopalian, a female, whose husband attends the parish church ; and one man with his wife at- tend the Seceding meeting in Johnshaven, but his children were sent as young communicants last year to join the Established Church, — so that, in the soil of Garvock, dissenterism does not thrive. The parish church is generally well attended, considering the distance of the extremities of the parish ; and the average num- ber of communicants is 200. Some years ago, there was a small Penny-a-week Association in this parish for missions, schools, and tracts, the annual income of which never exceeded L. 2, 10s., which was paid to the So- ciety for the same purpose in Montrose ; but, unfortunately, both have dwindled awav. 46 RINCAUDINESIIIRE. Education, — There are two schools in the parish, one parochial and the other on chance. In the parochial school, are taught, English reading, writing, arithmetic, English grammar, Latin, and mensuration. In the other, are taught, English reading, writing, and arithmetic. The parochial schoolmaster's salary is L. 31, with allowance for garden, L. 2, 2s. His fees are, for reading, 2s. 6d. ; writing, 3s. 6d. ; arithmetic, 4s. ; English grammar, 5s. ; Latin, 5s. ; and may amount annually to L. 20. He is also session-clerk at a salary of L. 2 ; and his perquisites for proclamations, &c. may be about L. 3. Hje has just the legal accommodation of two apart- ments, and a separate school^room ; has hitherto been a popular teacher, and musters between 50 and 60 at his public examina- tions by the presbytery, several of whom are from neighbouring parishes. The parochial school is pretty* centrical, — about half a mile north from the church, and, from its elevated situation, serves for a sea-mark. The other school is at the most dis- tant point of the parish, so that neither interferes with the other. The people in general are quite alive to the benefits of education, and send their children to school at an early age. It is believed that there is not one in the parish above six years of age who can- not read. Savings Bank. — A bank for savings, for the benefit of servants, labourers, and mechanics, was opened by the minister January 28th 1831, who remits the deposits to the Dundee Union Bank branch Montrose, and draws when required, at his own risk. Any sum from Is. to L. 10 is taken in, and interest paid yearly at March 31 sL But the deposits have not yet reached far above L. 100. This is owing to two causes. Firsts the low rate of in- terest, only 3 per cent. Secondly^ the improvident habits of young unmarried persons, who seldom think of saving a penny of their wages. The consequence is, that they begin their house-keeping and a life of poverty at the same time ; whereas, were they careful to lay up in the savings bank, a small sum at every term, they would then, with the blessing of Providence on their future indus- try, be prepared to begin their house-keeping in full prospect of comparative comfort and happiness. However, several females have done well. A little girl who began, four years ago, with 5s. has now L. 5; a second has L. 17 ; and a third has L. 35. The different balances have been as follows : — Year. BaL Year. Bal. Year, Bat. 1831, - L.58 1833, - L. 90 1835, - L. 106 1832, - 76 1834, - 127 1836, - 112,6s. Library. — A parish library was instituted in June 1835, which GARVOCK. 49 consists already of 330 volumes, all purchased, except a few do- nations, with the proceeds of a single sermon, which the minis- ter jjtiblished by subscription for that purpose. They consist chiefly of religious, but include several good moral and historical books. And it is hbped aud earnestly wished, that it may prove a grpat and lasting benefit to the parish. Poor and Parochial Funds. — About fifteen years ago, the num- ber of persons receiving regular aid from the poor's funds was not above 2. But the number soon rapidly increased ; so that, four years ago, there were no less than 14 on the roll getting regular or occasional supply. This arose from two causes. Firsts old age, sickness, widow- hood, and orphanism. Secondly^ the rapid disappearance of that honest pride and spirit of independence which used to make our people struggle hard and long with poverty, before they would ap- ply to the kirk-session. The number on the roll is now consider- ably reduced by deaths and growing up of orphans. Regular pau- pers get from 2s. 6d. to 6s. a month. The whole fiind arises from three sources. Firsts church collections, amounting to about L. 12, 10s. annually; secondly^ occasional donations from some of the heritors ; and thirdly^ from interest of former savings, which two last fluctuate, — in all about L. 27 only ; and consequently, as the heritors would not all join to keep up our funds, by the pressure of late years they have been reduced nearly L. 50. There has been as yet no assessment here, and long may it be so ; for although the poor must and ought to be supported, yet legal assessments are always attended with pernicious and demoralizing efiects. They have a strong tendency to diminish the industrious habits of the lower classes, and to banish from their minds all proper feelings of independence, gratitude, and contentment. Fairs. — There is only one fair in this parish, held annually in July, on the summit of the Hill of Garvock, about half a mile from the church, called St James' fair. It was formerly one of the most frequented in the county, being a general feeing market ; but since markets for the sole purpose of feeing were instituted, just at the terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas, St James' fair is much reduced. It b.gins on third Tuesday O. S. July, for sheep; on Wednesday for home made linen, which, being now superseded by the manufactory, that day is vacant; on Thursday for cattle and engaging harvest shearers ; on Friday for horses ; but little busi- ness is now done on that day. The ground on which it stands be- KINCARDINE. D ■*m » 50 KINCARDINESHIUE. longs to the Earl of Kintore ; but the custom or duty belongs to another. Inns and Alehouses. — In this parish, there is not one inn, ale- house, or tippling-house of any description ; and long may these poisonous pests of society be kept at a distance from Ganrock ! Upwards of forty years ago, an attempt was made to introduce this nuisance among the quiet and well disposed people of this parish ; but such were their temperate habits and good sense, that, after foolishly persevering to pay his licence for a few years, the man was obliged to give it up, without making his plack a babee^ as he candidly acknowledged. Fuel. — For fuel, the people here depend principally on coals, which they procure at the ports of Gourdon, Johnshaven, or Mon- trose, at from Is. to Is. 2d. per barrel of 9 stones, small coal; and at lOs. per boll of 72 stones, great coal; to which the expense of carriage is to be added. Turf cut on the hill, peats and sods cut in what moss yet remains, form a considerable part still of the la- bourer's fuel. The tenants on Lord Kintore's property have a right to cut peats and turfs on a certain part of the Grampians, but the distance is almost equal to a prohibition. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the time of the former Statistical Account, few parishes have made such marked progress in improvement. Indeed, the face of the parish, since that time, has been quite changed, by the great extent of waste ground which has been reclaimed, and by the good roads which have been made, intersecting the parish in different directions. Much certainly has been done in both these respects, within the last forty years ; but much still remains to be done. In many parts of the parish, a want of roads is still much felt, and much more waste ground may yet be profitably reclaimed. In fact, little waste ground is to be met with any where else, where the plough can draw such a deep and strong furrow, and where such plenty of excellent material for draining is to be found. The in- dustrious tenants in Garvock want only proper encouragement and moderate aid from their proprietors; and what they have already done is a pledge that their activity, exertion, and enterprize would soon repay the assistance afforded them. The chief obstacles to improvement still remaining are, want of enclosures, with open drains, plantations for shelter as well as or- nament, and sufficient and substantial farm-buildings. If the pro- prietors would lend their helping hand to remove these obstacles. BENHOLME. 51 the Howe of Garvock, this originally rough meadow^ would soon outriyal the Howe of the Mearns, and repay with interest any pru« dent outlay* Xo ^dd to the lease of nineteen from three to se- ven years, according to the extent of waste ground to be reclaim* ed on a farm, would encourage improvement, and would eventual- ly be profitable to all parties. As, in this thinly peopled parish, a scarcity of hands is always felt in time of turnip-hoeing, hay and grain harvest, to feu out a limited number of cottages, in a convenient spot near the centre of the parish, with a strict prohibition of all tippling-houses, might be very advantageous. The inhabitants of these cottages would find plenty of employment ; and the farmers would enjoy much convenience from having labourers so near. And if all this were done, the proprietors themselves would find much pleasure in see- ing the improved state of their lands, and reap much real profit in their increased rentals ; and all, from the highest to the lowest, would be much benefited from breathing the wholesome and invi- gorating air of an improved and meliorated climate. September 1836. PARISH OF BENHOLME. PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEAKNS. THE REV. JAMES GLEN, A. M. MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The etymology of the name is sufficiently obvious, — Ben a hill, and holme a piece of low-lying level ground. This de- rivation suggests the idea of a diversi6ed surface of hill and dale; and this is not undescriptive of the general aspect of the parish. Extent^ Sfc, — The length and breadth of the parish are nearly equal, as it extends about 3 miles from north to south, and the same distance from east to west : consequently it may contain about 9 square miles. It is bounded on the south-west, by the pa- rish of St Cyrus ; on the north-west, by that of Garvock ; on the north-east, by that of Bervie ; and on the south-east, by the Ger- man Ocean. The parish forms nearly a square, and is thus re- markably compact. 52 KINCARDINESHIRE. Topographical Appearances, — There is nothing in the parish that deserves the name either of mountain or hill, with the excep- tion of Gourdon Hill, which rises to the height oC about 400 feet, at the boundary between this parish and that of Bervie. The whole parish, when viewed from the German Ocean, seems to as- cend gradually from the sea shore till it join the high-lying lands of Garvock. Along the shore, is a plain that extends the whole length of the parish. This plain varies much in breadth. In some places, it is not much more than a hundred yards broad ; in others, its extent is much greater, and at one point it reaches inland fully a quarter of a mile. This low-lying plain is bounded by an accli- vity of equal length with itself, at some places abrupt and steeps at others rising with a more gradual slope. The surface of this acclivity is frequently furrowed with high ridges across the slope, and there cannot be a doubt that it formed the ancient boundary of the German Ocean. From the top of this bank, whose height may vary from 70 to 100 feet, the ground, with considerable va- riety of surface, gradually rises in elevation, till it reach, as above stated, the lands of Garvock. There is one cave in the parish, in the face of the acclivity just referred to. It is of no great size or extent, not being above 8 feet in height at the entrance, and as many feet broad, and does not reach inland above 40 feet, becoming narrower and lower to- wards its extremity. Whether it is artificial or was hollowed out by the force of the waves when it was within the range of their ope- ration, does not seem to be ascertained. The mouth of the cave may be from fifty to sixty feet above the level of the sea. The sea coast of the parish may be about three miles in length. It possesses little interest, being overlooked by no cliffs or head- lands. It is in general rough and rocky, without much sand, ex- cept at two places ; and there, to a very limited extent. It is there- fore unfavourable for bathing. The rocks, which generally form the shore, are little elevated above the level of the sea, whilst be- tween them and the cultivated ground, is at most places a barren tract of large boulders, forming, perhaps, the most remarkable fea- ture of the whole coast. These boulders are of many different rocks ; but quartz seems to predominate. Granite is not unfi^- quent. The coast is indented by two small bays, that of Johnshaven, and that of the Haughs of Nether Benholme. Meteorology. — The west or south-west may be called the pre- CENHOLME. 53 vailing wind during the year. The writer has often been struck with a circumstance, which appeared to him peculiar to the winds in this district. The morning is frequently calm and serene. As the fofenoon advances, the sky is overcast ; and before eleven, a strong breeze springs up from the west or south-west, and blows without intermission till sunset, when it generally subsides, occa- sionally in the course of a feao secondsy at other times more gra- dually. Climate. — The climate, is upon the whole, harsh and ungenial, particularly during the prevalence of east winds in spring. While these prevail in the beginning of summer, we have frequent dense fogs from the ocean, especially towards the end of May, and dur- ing the whole month of June. These fogs are reckoned very un- wholesome both to animal and vegetable life. Sometimes they are accompanied with a sharp sea breeze, and the effects of the pestiferous gale are soon visible. Flowers and fruit-blossoms are shrivelled and destroyed, and the foliage of trees in exposed situ- ations scorched and withered as if blighted by lightning. At no season of summer is there that genial warmth, those balmy and re- freshing breezes that prevail in the inland parts of Scotland, or on the western coast, with the exception of a few days at most, or more frequently only of a few hours, of particular days ; — a damp, chilly air coming on almost universally in the evening. I do not remember any exception to this observation during my residence on this coast, but in the summer of 1826. In that extraordinary season alone, have I remarked the warm dry air to continue dur- ing the evening, for a succession of days. Hydrography. — There are three small streams in the parish. One of these rises in the higher grounds towards the north-west side of the parish, and runs in an easterly direction. Another rises in the north-east side of the parish, and runs towards the south- west These two meet a few hundred yards below the church, at the corner of the manse garden^ and the united stream, after a course of little more than a quarter of a mile, falls into the Ger- man Ocean. The third stream is to the south of these; it flows eastward close by the House of Brotherton. During heavy rains, these rivulets swell to impetuous torrents, and on some occasions with amazing rapidity, which the drainage of the lands has of late years greatly increased. They then overflow their banks to the injury of the adjoining flelds, and to the danger of some families, whose dwellings are within the range of the water in high floods. 54 KINCARDINESHIRE. All of these streams are remarkable for the deep and narrow hol- lows, provincially denSf in which they flow. The sides of the hol- lows are sometimes formed of rock and sometimes of diluvium. The diluvium, often very deep, is acted upon with great ease by the current; and in floods, incredible quantities of boulders are hurried along, immense beds of which are deposited in level places on the banks of the stream. Geology and Mineralogy. — The prevailing rocks are old red sandstone, and old red sandstone conglomerate. The dip is a little to the west of south, and scarcely varies throughout the parish, being preserved with scarcely any disturbance even in the immediate vicinity of trap rocks. These occur to a consider- able extent, chiefly in the higher parts of the parish. Dikes of trap rock also cut the sandstone strata in directions somewhat va- rious, but chiefly east and west These dikes, probably from the greater hardness and durability of their materials, sometimes stand out a little above the surface of the sandstone. Some such may be seen in the neighbourhood of the harbour at Johnshaven. The breadth of these dikes is very various ; some are so small as to be mere veins, whilst one or two are many yards in breadth. The same dike does not always preserve the same breadth, throughout its whole course. The nature of the rocks composing them is also various; some are porphyritic; others, of small size, are very hard, compact, and homogeneous, with an appearance resembling that of matter suddenly cooled from a state of fusion. The prevailing trap rock seems to be a kind of porphyry, whose basis is wacke ; but greenstone also occurs, and at some places an amygdaloid, whose cavities are chiefly filled with green esffth. The sandstone and conglomerate strata are of almost all possible varieties, in respect of compactness and coarseness. Sometimes the conglomerates are almost entirely formed of rolled pieces or boulders of large size, very loosely united by an arenaceous ce- ment. Sometimes the cement is exceedingly firm, and the boul- ders are with difficulty detached, — other strata are of sandstone, so fine, that the particles can scarcely be detected by the eye ; but through almost all the sandstone strata, small pebbles of jasper are scattered. The jasper thus occurring is sometimes fine, and susceptible of a good polish. The strata are of very various thick- ness ; but, in general, they seem to extend a considerable way with- out changing their character, and seldom run into one another. At one place, the conglomerate may be seen in juxta-position HENHOLME. 55 with the trap, — the trap seeming to have overflowed and rested upon the uneven surface of the conglomerate. The contents of the conglomerate in some places are chiefly siliciouSy quartz, jasper, &c. usually coarse : in other places, varie- ties of trap rock prevail. Boulders of granite, grey wacke, and of many other rocks may also be observed. The trap rock is not known to contain any minerals worthy of notice except agates, which have been found in different parts of the parish. But, except along the shore, which is wholly composed of sand- stone and conglomerate strata, intersected by dikes, comparative- ly little rock can be seen. This renders the determination of the relative extent of different kinds of rock exceedingly difficult, — impossible, if minute accuracy were required. The streams which intersect the parish expose, in their course, the different kinds of rock ; but elsewhere, rock is rarely visible. A deep diluvial de- posit covers almost the whole parish. Sometimes this deposit is many yards in depth. It is filled with innumerable boulders of various sizes, which may be seen where it is cut by streams, and which strew, in vast quantities, the surfaces of fields. These boul- ders are of very various kinds, some of quartz, some of granite, some of greywacke, and some of trap rocks. The soil, throughout the parish, is of almost every variety. Per- haps the prevailing kind of soil is a heavy clay. Other parts are composed of fine loam. Others are light and sandy ; but, fortu- nately, little of the soil in the parish seems to have been formed from the disintegration of old red sandstone, which in other dis- tricts is so barren and unproductive. In the higher districts, a cold wet clay prevails, with a slight intermixture of peat-moss in some parts. There are some fields along the shore that present a very bar- ren aspect, when newly sown out in spring. Nothing then appears but a plain, densely studded with boulders, which completely con- ceal the substratum of soil. In ordinary seasons, however, or ra- ther when there are copious showers at convenient intervals, these fields produce excellent crops. The proprietor has lately reclaim- ed and improved a considerable tract of the above description, by transporting soil from the adjoining fields. Botmnj.— Lying along an eastern shore, this parish is unfa- vourable to the growth of plantations. Trees within the influence of the sea breeze have a stunted and unhealthy appe^ance. Near 56 KINCARDINESHIRE. the mansion-house of Benholme, however, which is in a sheltered situation, and more than a mile from the sea-coast, the woods are more vigorous and thriving. There is a tradition, that the upper part of the parish was once a forest of oak, — and large trunks of that wood are occasionally dug Up in the mossy parts of the soil. There is also a tradition, that the roof of the old parish church, which was entirely of oak, was the product of this forest. It may be mentioned as a curious fact, that the garden of Bro- therton, which is within a very few hundred yards of the sea, is remarkable for its productiveness, and for the fine quality and fla- vour both of the large and small fruits. This must be accounted for, in a great measure, from the height of the garden walls, which protect the various productions from the direct influence of the sea breeze. The Aspidium aadeatum may be mentioned as a fern, plentiful in moist dem^ — and the Saxifraga granxdatOy as one of the most abundant plants in the parish. Geranium sanguineum, Vieia syU vaticoj and Lithospermum maritimumj are also plentiful. II. — Civil History. Lajid'Oumers. — The sole land-owners ^re, James Scott, Esq. of Brotherton ; Mrs R. Scott of Benholme ; and James Pitzmaurice Scott, Esq. of Knox. Parochial Registers. — The date of the earliest entry in the parish cash-book is 30th April 1684; and from that time the parochial registers have been regularly kept. Antiquities. — The only ancient building now remaining in the parish is the Tower of Benholme. This, at one time, had been a place of considerable strength. The date of its foundation is un- known. It is a high and massive square building of sandstone, still in a state of complete preservation. It seems at one time to have stood on a peninsula, formed by one of the streams above-mention- ed on the east and south sides, and by a deep trench or moat on the west . A passage was formed over this moat by the late pro- prietor, G. R. Scott, Esq., in opening a new approach to the man- sion-house. The church, which was taken down in 1832, was of conside- rable antiquity. There is no record, nor even tradition, as to the time when it was founded. It had obviously been, at one period, used as a place of worship by the Papists, as it was furnish- ed with a font for holy water, with an incense altar, and with a niche or small press in the wall, which is conjectured to have been the receptacle of sacred relics. This conjecture is the more pro- BENHOLME. 57 bable, as the niche had obviously been carefully enclosed by a door, and had the resemblance of human bones carved on the inside. The workmen employed in taking down the old church discovered two human skeletons, in a state of tolerable preservation, among the ruins of a part of the north wall which had been overturned by gunpowder. The precise position in which they had reclined could not be ascertained, but they seemed to have been laid side by side, with the heads towards the east. It appeared that they had rest- ed on a flat stone, built into the wall, six or seven feet above the ground. The under side of this stone was quite rough, while the upper side had been hewn; and near the one extremity, had been cut a circle of a foot diameter, enclosing three or four shapeless gravings near the circumference. From the circle proceeded two parallel lines, about three inches apart, extending to the other extremity, where was a circle similar to the former, but adorned with some additional gravings. There was no trace of any inscription or date. Of course, the period when the stone, with its sepulchral accom- paniments, was introduced into the wall, must remain a secret. A portion of the stone had been broken off, a number of years ago, when the church received some repairs, and was found built into the belfry. If any bones were then discovered, the circumstance probably excited little attention, and is now quite forgotten. In the burying aisle of the old church, were two monuments, now built into the wall of the present church.* * On one of these, the following verses are inscribed : " Vix lustrum \ixiu mirabere plurima vixit Longaeva ilia mihi. qus bene vixit. erit Foelix vita, obitus foelicior. ultima vox baec Cum Cbristo ut vivam. nunc mihi dulce mori Vera igitur Maria es. Marthae mundana relinquis Cum Maria semper vive. fruare Deo." And on a stone, formerly belonging to the same monument, is an inscription which points out the individual to whom it refers : ** Hie . jacet . Domina . Maria . Keyth . charissima . filia . nohilissimi . commi- tis . illustrissimique . Domini . Georgii . comitis . Marescalli . Domini . Keyth . et . Altrie . &c . ct . nobilissimis . clarissimieque . Domins . Dnic . Margar . Ogilvy . Marescalli . comitissa; . qua; . foelix . in . Domino . obiit . 14 . Octob . Anno . Do- mini . 1620 . iEtatis . suae . 5°." A curious circumstance connected with this parish is recorded by Chamt)ers in his Biographical Dictionary. The party principally concerned was Margaret Ogilvy, widow of the celebrated founder of Marischal College, Aberdeen,— the fifth Earl Ma- rischal. She, with her then husband, " Sir Alexander 3trauchane of Thornetoun, Knight," and *' Robert Strauchan, Doctor in Physic," were accused (3d March 1624) of plundering the place of Beuholm, belonging to the Earl Marischal, a short time before his decease. At the same time, James Keith of Bcnholme, probably the EarPs steward, was accused of the same crime. The inventory of articles stolen proves the Earl's great wealth. " Of Portugal ducats, and other species of foreign gold, to the avail of 26,000 pounds or thereby ; 36 dozen gold buttons ; a rich jewel set with dia- monds, which the deceased Earl received as a gift when he was ambassador in Den- mark, worth 6000 mcrks ; the Queen of Denmark's picture in gold, set about with 58 KINCARDINESHIRE. On the farm of Boghead, a quantity of human bones have been dug up, the coffins containing which were formed of unhewn stones. It is remarkable that these remains should have been found, not only in one spot, but scattered over a space of nearly a mile in length. A number of flint arrow-heads were found in the same vicinity ; and tradition speaks vaguely of a battle fought here. III. — Population. I do not find any authentic statement of the population of this parish, prior to the year 1753. It then amounted to 1351. It seems, with some fluctuations, gradually to have increased till the year 1773, when it amounted to 1715. From that time it seems to have slowly declined; and in 1793, it was reduced to 1557. The amount of the population in 1831 was 1484. The de- crease of the population may be ascribed in a great measure to the union of small farms into larger ones in the country part of the pa- rish, and to the influence of press-gangs during the late wars in the village of Johnshaven. The press-gangs not only carried off many of the most able men, but rendered the village an unpleasant resi- dence for others, who, therefore, sought every opportunity of leav- ing it Population in 1831 residing in the village of Johnshaven, was - 1027 country, ... 457 The yearly average of births for the last seven years has been • • 34 of marriages, - - . • . ]3 of deaths fully ..... *^ But in the first four months of this year [1837] no fewer than 43 have died, chiefly of influenza. rich diamonds, estimated at 5000 merks; a jasper atone for stemming of biood, esti- mated at 500 French crowns ; a chain of * equall pcrle,* wherein were 400 pearls, great and small ; two chains of gold, worth 3000 merks ; a great pair of bracelets, all set with diamonds, price thereof 500 crowns ; the other pair of gold bracelets at 600 pounds the pair ; a turquois ring worth 10 French crowns; a diamond set in a ring, worth 28 French crowns, with a number of other small rings set with diamonds and other rich stones in gold, worth 300 French crowns; also 16,000 merks of silver and gold, ready coined, which was within a green coffer ; together with the whole Upcs- try, silver-work, bedding, goods, gear, and plenishing, within the said place.'* Whe- ther any further steps were taken in this matter does not appear. It rather seems that it was compromised, and that the prosecution was allowed to drop. Another monument bears the following : " Piae memoriae justisque mcritis patris et mariti optimi, Robert! Scott a Benholm, qui mortalitatis cccno relicto. in immortalitatis scdem sublatus est, ctatis su« anno LXIV. Salutis vero humans MDCXC. X. kal. Feb. mausoleum hoc quale quale sacrum voluit superstes sua soboles et vidua Dna Catharlna Ellis. Tumulus sen defunctus. Ne gemitu somnum, ne turbes gaudia luctu Ne laurum lachrymis pollue, quisquis ades. Certavi banc vit« pugnam ; victoria parta est • £t membris fessis obtigit alma quies Explevi numerum vitas ; terraquc relicta Carpo coelestis gaudia Jerusalem." 3 k BENHOLME. 59 The number of persons in 1831 under 15 years of age was 496 betwixt 15 and 30, - ... 816 30 and 50, - - - 338 50 and 70, - - - 256 upwards of 70, - - - 78 unmarried men above 50 years of age, - - - 44 women above 45, - - - 117 There are 6 persons insane and fatuous ; none blind, nor deaf and dumb. Illegitimate births in the course of the last three years, 9. Only one individual of independent fortune resides in the parish. The property of each of the land-owners affords a rent far above the sum of L. 50. The great body of the people may be described as moral in their habits. Although there is a general and, I trust, a growing respect for religion on the part of many, yet I cannot say from per- sonal observation that there are many people of eminent piety. Experimental religion, I fear, is but little known in this part of the country. But by means of evangelical preaching, of parish libra- ries, and of Sabbath schools, it is hoped, that, by the blessing of God, the religious character of the people will Speedily im- prove. It is to their credit that poaching is but little practised, and smuggling altogether unknown. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — There are in this parish about 4000 acres of cul- tivated land, and about 1064 acres of land uncultivated, of which about 160 might be profitably improved and brought into cultiva- tion. There is no undivided common in the parish. There are about 325 acres under wood. With the exception of some about Benholme and Broth- erton, the wood is mostly young. The trees planted are chief- ly fir, ash, beech, and oak. Of all kinds, larch seems to thrive best, but is said not to thrive for more than about forty years, when its top begins to wither and die, probably from the roots meeting with something unfavourable in the soil. Many of the trees are covered with lichens, chiefly of the genera Rama- lina and Usnea, to an extent which seems prejudicial to vegetation, and indicates perhaps an unsuitable climate. The trees in the plan- tations are in general thinned annually. Rent. — The average rent of arable land may be from L. 1, 12s. to L. 1, 13s. per imperial acre. Leases. — The general duration of leases is for nineteen years. 60 KINCARDINKSHIRE. The farm-buildings are generally in a good state, and sufficient for the respective &rms. Husbandry is in a state of high improve- ment, the land carefully drained, and more or less of the waste land is reclaimed every year. Many of the farmers deserve much credit for their enterprising spirit in cultivating waste lands. Many places which were a perfect wilderness twelve years ago, are now drained, and producing excellent crops. Mr Scott of Brotherton retains several farms in his own hands, and has brought them into a state of high cultivation. The greater part of the land is unenclosed with permanent fences, except on the coast, where some hundreds of acres are in- closed with substantial stone dikes, about four or four and a-half feet high ; but the farmers frequently enclose portions of the lands with wooden railings for one or two years, and the proprietors are ac- customed to let grass fields to a considerable extent for summer pasture, which bring good rents, varying from L. 1, 10s. to L. 4 per acre, according to the quality of the land. There are in the parish eleven farms provided with thrashing- machines, more than half of which are driven by water. Quarries, — There is only one quarry of any importance in the parish, which is at Benholme. The rock is a sandstone, not very fine grained. Fishings. — The sea-fishing at Johnshaven was formerly much more extensive than at present. Its decline is, in great part, at- tributed to the system of impressment pursued during the war. The fish caught are chiefly cod, haddocks, and turbot, with some species of inferior importance. At the distance of several miles from the shore, large fish, both cod and ling, are plentiful. The fish caught are partly sold in the parish, chiefly to fish-curers, partly carried inland to Laurencekirk, Fordoun, &c. Some are also carried to Montrose. An attempt has been made for two years to establish a salmon-fishery in this parish, but with little suc- cess. The coast being rocky is not favourable for stake-nets. Manufactures. — The only branch of manufacture in the parish is linen manufacture, in which about 230 hands are employed. The weavers usually work about sixteen hours a day. Navigation. — Three sloops belong to Johnshaven, chiefly em- ployed in the coal trade, and sometimes in exporting grain. The tonnage altogether amounts to 150 tons. V. — Parochial Economy. Markci'Town. — There is no market-town in the parish, and 4 BENHOLME. 61 the inhabitants resort to Montrose, distant about ten miles from the centre of the parish, and to Bervie, distant about three miles. Till within these seven years, Montrose was the nearest market- town. Within that time, a p;rain market has been established in Bervie, and is now much frequented. The grain is shipped at Gourdon, a small sea port in the parish of Bervie. Means of Communication, — The only village in the parish is Johnshaven. The turnpike road from Aberdeen to Dundee runs through the parish ; and the roads to inland parts of the county are improving gradually. The length of turnpike road within the parish, is about three miles. There is no post-office in the' parish, the post-town being Bervie. The Royal Mail between Edinburgh and Aberdeen passes through the parish, and^the New Times stage-coach between Dundee and Aberdeen. These run all the year, and occasionally there is a light coach between Mon- trose and Aberdeen. There are two beautiful bridges of consi- derable span and height on the present turnpike road, and two on the old post* road, which are still in pretty good repair. Harbour. — The harbour of Johnshaven, the only one in the parish, is very small. Were this enlarged and improved, it is sup- posed that the trade of Johnshaven might be greatly increased. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is not far from the centre of the parish, but, being a mile and a half from Johnshaven, it can- not be said to be very well situated for the bulk of the popula- tion. A person may walk from the church to the most distant house in the parish, in little more than half an hour. The parish is therefore of a very convenient size. The present church was built in 1832 ; it is a plain but neat structure, and in excellent or- der. It is seated for 768 persons, sixteen inches having been al- lowed for a sitting ; but this allowance has been found too small, so that pews let for six or eight will not hold so many grown-up people. There are no free sittings. The manse was built in 1826. The glebe consists of six acres, and lets for L. 12, 10s. The stipend amounts to 16 chalders. There is no chapel of ease, missionary, nor catechist in the parish. The only place of worship besides the parish church belongs to the United Associate Synod. The minister, I believe, is paid chiefly by seat rents, and by the offering at the church door. His stipend altogether must be under L. 100. The number of families attending the parish church is 314; of individuals, 1280. This, according to the common calculation, 62 KINCARDINESHIRE. should give an average attendance of 640, and in sammer the average is above this. The number of families belonging to the United Associate Synod is 45 ; of individuals, 163. Fifteen fa- milies are not attached to any body of Christians.* The number of individuals attached to no body is 32. There are 2 Bereans, 4 Old Independents, 2 individuals belonging to the Associate Synod of Original Seceders, and 1 Episcopalian. There is no Papist in the parish. In good weather, divine service is well attended in the parish church ; but the church, being situated at the distance of fully a mile and a-half from the great body of the population, the con- gregation is sometimes small in very stormy weather. I have heard that the dissenting chapel is never full, except at the evening ser- mon, once a fortnight, when many connected with the Established Church attend. The average number of communicants at the Established Church, is about 570. The only religious society connected with the Establishment is an association for furthering the four great schemes of the General Assembly, — the Highland Schools, the East India Mission, the Colonial Churches of North America, and Church Extension. The subscription amounts to a very limited sum. The average amount of church collections yearly for religious objects is about L. 15. Education. — There are altogether seven schools in the parish, — one parochial, six unendowed. None of them are supported by societies, nor by individual subscription. Five of them are taught by females. In two of the schools, English reading, writing, arithme- tic, book- keeping, and navigation are taught. In the parish school, besides the above branches of education, English grammar is taught, and Latin. In the schools taught by females, English reading is prin- cipally taught ; some of the schoolmistresses also teach knitting and sewing. The parish schoolmaster's salary is the maximum. He has the legal accommodation. The school fees vary. In the parish school and in one other, they graduate from 2s. to 4s. a quarter. In the female schools, they seldom exceed 2s. 6d. Some poor people pay weekly l^d. or 2d. according to circumstances. I should think there cannot be above ten or twelve persons be- • Some of these are people belonging to the coast-guard service, and nominally belong to the Church of England, but generally attend the parish church or dissent- ing meethig-house. BENHOLME. 63 tween six and fifteen years of age, who cannot read or write. Of persons above fifteen, there are not more than three or four who cannot read. The people, in general, are fully alive to the be- nefits of education. There are a few families so distant from any school that children cannot be sent to school except in summer, and even then they cannot attend till they be seven or eight years of age. The parish is, however, fully supplied with schools ; and last year, in spring, a seventh part of the population was attending school. Libraries. — There is a parish library, consisting of upwards of 500 volumes of religious books ; and a juvenile library, consisting of nearly 400 small volumes. The parish library is highly valued by the people ; and at present upwards of 300 individuals read from it. The books thus find their way to more than 200 families. Friendly Societies. — There are two friendly societies amongst the people of Johnshaven, one of which has a stock of L. 600, and gives out L. 60 a year. The other is upon a more limited scale. Poor and Parochial Funds, — About 40 individuals receive pa- rochial aid. The rates are from Is. 6d. to 8s. a-month. The average rate may be 4s. 6d. or 5s, a-month. The annual amount of contributions for the relief of the poor is about L. 108, arising from the following sources : — Collections in the church, L. 60, 10s. ; seat- rents, L. 20, 10s. ; interest of money, L. 22, 10s. ; pro- clamation of banns, L. 1, 10s. ; mortcloths, L. 3. Whatever is given away above this is supplied by voluntary donations. There is certainly a strong disposition among many of the poor to refrain from asking parochial relief. Many instances of this kind have come to the writer's knowledge, and he does all in his power to encourage this spirit of independence. Alehouses. — There are ten alehouses or spirit-shops. I have no hesitation in saying, that their effect upon the morals of the people is most pernicious. Fuel. — 'J'here is no fuel obtained in the parish except a little firewnod ; and the inhabitants are supplied with coals chiefly from England. One sloop, laden with Scotch coal, arrives at Johnshaven annually. Miscellaneous Observations. There must have been great improvements in farming, in the course of the last forty years. Much waste land has been reclaim- ed during that time, and the quantity of grain produced must be 64 ' KINCARDINESHIRE. much greater than at the above period. It does not appear that any improvement has taken place in the circumstances of the people in Johnshaven. On the contrary, it is the testimony of old residen- ters, that poverty is gradually gaining ground. It is reported that forty or fifty years ago, there were many in that village in easy cir- cumstances ; now, the greater, (mrt of the families are nearly on a level ; and comparatively few are able to assist their neighbours to any extent, in times of affliction and bereavement. This may be ac- counted for in various ways. Trade was, for many years, in a very depressed state, — the weavers got into difficulties, — nothing more could be earned than was sufficient to provide a scanty subsistence for themselves and families, — respectable furniture and comfort- able clothing could not be procured, and in many instances debt was contracted. And when employment became more plentiful with a better remuneration, it was a long time before those who were sunk in the lowest state of poverty could rise above their dif- ficulties; and lately, when some of the more industrious were be- ginning to surmount the harassments of poverty and destitution, trade again became depressed, and the labouring classes must re- new their struggles with hard toil and inadequate remuneration* The seafaring people in the meantime had not been in more fa- vourable circumstances than their neighbours. For several years, the fishing on the coast has been more precarious than usual, and the herring-fishing often a complete failure. In these circum- stances, not only were time and labour consumed to no purpose, but debt was incurred in providing nets and sea stores. Many families of the seafaring people have therefore been reduced to nearly the lowest state of poverty. And, in truth, I know not any village of like size, where there are so many poor people as in Johnshaven. It does not appear to me that this parish is susceptible of much improvement in the system of husbandry, as the farmers seem to keep pace with the improvements of the age. It is my decided opinion, however, that an improvement in the system of education would be of essential benefit both in a temporal and spiritual point of view. Did all the young people receive a thoroughly scriptural education, and were they kept at school so long as to enable them not only to read the Scriptures with facility, but so as to enable them to read and understand any ordinary English author, then the parish library and the preaching of the gospel would be tenfold more beneficial than at present. It is no slander upon my people to assert, that many of them have been so imperfectly educated as BENHOLME. 65 not to be able to read intelligently books either of history or of practical divinity ; atfd consequently they cannot be expected to follow and appreciate a connected discourse from the pulpit. The defective state of education is deeply to be deplored. And I see not how it can be remedied till parents are more faithful, and pains- taking in the discharge of the vows which they take upon them- selves at the baptism of their children. The teachers of youth may labour as they please, but if there is no training at home, their la- bours will be comparatively fruitless. Were parents to be regular and persevering in giving instructions to their children, on the sdier- noon and evening of the Lord's day, it is incalculable not only what progress would be made in scholarship, but, by the blessing of God, what moral improvement would take place. The want of piety and practical godliness lies at the root of all the evils that abound amongst us. Could people be made pious, then, as a mat- ter of course, they would become frugal and industrious, and, as a general rule, they would improve in worldly comforts, in proportion to the growth of grace in the soul. Were the money that is spent in the alehouse devoted to its proper objects, the comfort of many families would be greatly increased, and the children who are at present neglected might receive a suitable education. 1837. KINCARDINE. PARISH OF FORDOUN.* PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MBARNS. THE REV. JAMES LESLIE, D. D. MINISTER. Lf — Topography and Natural History. Name. — " Fordoun (or Fordun, as it was anciently written,) b said to be a Gaelic word, signifying ' the anterior or prominent hill/ and is very descriptive of the situation of the village and church of Fordoun, which are placed on the brow or declivity of Finella Hill, the most prominent hill in that quarter. This hill is completely separated from the Grampians, which lie behind it, • by a strath, to which the name of Strath Finella properly belongs, although the term has of late years been applied to the hill itself. Finella is the hill which rises from Strath Finella. This parish was known by the name of Fordoun as fur back as can be traced ; but it, or at least a district of it near to the church, was at one time called also Palladius or Paldy Parish, in consequence of a chapel which still stands in the church-yard, and was dedicated to St Palladius. Several of the parishes in this neighbourhood had two names, the one more general, and which applied to the whole pa- rish, the other taken from some Romish saint to whom a chapel had been erected, and under whose patronage the Catholic Church was anxious to have it believed that the parish was placed, — thus Conveth alias Laurencekirk, Aberluthnott alias St Mary's or Marykirk. There is no certainty as to the period when St Pal- ladius' Chapel was first erected. Although the tradition is, that Palladius lived and died at Fordoun, it is more probable, that amidst that inundation of monks which came early from Italy into Scotland, some of them, attracted by the beauty of the place, fixed their residence at Fordoun, and built there a chapel to their favourite saint, pretending, no doubt, that they had brought some • Drawn up by George Robertson, Esq. Balnianno. f Notice by Dr Leslie. FORDOUN. Vi7 of his bones and other relics along with them. These were pro- bably placed in a humble chest at first, but, as the fame of the saint increased, and, consequently, also the pilgrimages to his chapel, it was thought necessary to remove them from their first humble resting-place to a silver shrine^ a present from the Arch- bishop of St Andrews. " Fordoun was a vicarage belonging to the Archbishop of St Andrews, and was called a Mensal Churchy the teinds of the parish being allotted for the support of the archbishop's table. Forbes or Tytler says, it was called * TTie Mother Church of the Mearfu.* Although the period when St Palladius' Chapel was built cannot now be ascertained, yet we are certain the chapel is of great an- tiquity.* This is not only evident from the appearance of the foundations, but also from the universal declaration of the early Scotch historians, that Kenneth the Third, who was killed by Fi- nella near Kincardine Castle or Palace in this parish, had come to Kincardine, in order to make a pilgrimage to St Palladius' ChapeL Kenneth ascended the throne in 970, and was murder- ed in 994 ; and from the circumstance of his making a pilgrimage to the chapel at Fordoun, it must have been a place of noted sanctity before that period. There is a well in the minister's ground, called St Palladius' Well, from whence the monks who had charge of the shrine and the pilgrims were probably furnished with water. An old house which stood at the entry into the church-yard, and was pulled down within these few years, in order to enlarge the burying-ground, went formerly by the name of the Bfanse, and perhaps was the habitation of the monks. A market, one of the largest in the MeamSf which at one time stood at no great distance from the chapel, but which was afterwards removed some miles in consequence of an exchange or sale of land, went by the name of Palladius or Paldy-Fair, a name which it still re* taint».*' Extent. — The mean length of the parish, extending from south- west to north-east, or from Nether Craigniston to Mondynes, may be about 8 miles ; and its mean breadth, from south-east to north- west, that is, from Pittarrow to the summit of the Grampians above * The Tery old church of Fordoun, which had stood two hundred or three hun- dred years, and was 100 feet long over walls, and 24 feet in breadth at the widest, and 16 at the narrowest, gave way in 1787, and was replaced by a new one in 1788. In 1827, the roof of that new church also gave way, and was replaced in 1830 by a large and most elegant ttructure, the admiration of all who visit it. «- Note by Dr 68 KINCARDINESHIRE. Drumtochty, aboutSJ miles, — thus making its superficial contents about 44 square miles. Boundaries. — The parish of Fordoun is of a quadrangular form, and is bounded on the south-west, by Fettercairn ; on the south and south-east, by the parishes of Marykirk, Laurencekirk, and Arbuthnott ; on the north-east, by Glenbervie ; and on the norih-west, by Strachan, which it joins on the summit of the Grampians. The parish extends along the south side of the Grampians, and on the north side of the valley of Strathmore, or rather of that division of it familiarly known by the name of the " How 0* the Meamsj* which comprehends the parishes of Fet- tercairn, Marykirk; Laurencekirk, and Fordoun. The mean length of the " How o' the Mearns," from the North Esk at Dalladies to the Bervie at Mondynes, may be near- ly 12 miles ; the breadth, from the top of the Hill of Garvock to the summit of the Grampians, 7^ miles, — the extent of the " How^' being thus about 90 square miles. The distance from the centre of the parish, or rather from the church of Fordoun, to Stone- haven, the county town, is about eleven miles ; to Bervie, ten ; and to Montrose, fifteen. The disposable produce is carried to one or other of these places, to all of which there is easy access by excellent roads. Topographical Appearances. — The general slope of the parish is towards the south-east, and the aspect is agreeably diversified by a succession of hill and dale. It is divided into two districts, viz. the How district^ comprehending the level part lying in the bottom of the valley of Strathmore, and the Brae district^ lyj"g on the south side of the Grampians. This last district is subdivided by the streams which take their rise in the Grampians, and by the small glens or valleys formed by these streams, into three or four smaller districts, such as the Brae of Glenfarquhar^ Kinkell^ and Mon- dynes^ the Brae of Craignisfon^ and the well-known Brae of For- doun. Several of these glens or valleys, having their sides more or less covered by plantations, give a rich and pleasing appearance to the parish. On the sides of the hills, cultivation has been car- ried to a considerable elevation, sometimes farther than is profit- able either to landlord or tenant. From Laurencekirk or the Hill of Garvock, on the south of the valley, the parish of Fordoun, on the opposite side, presents a rich and highly cultivated appearance, rendered more pleasing by the colour of the soil, which is either a brown gravelly loam, or red 4 KORDOIN. f>9 ferruginous clay ; and, from the waste or uncultivated part of the parish being mostly confined to the summits of the mountains, the appearance of the How, as well as the sloping grounds along the sides of the hills, is one unbroken extent of rich cultivation. This is still farther improved by the neat appearance of the farm-stead- ings, which are, for the most part, substantially built of stone and lime, slated, and white-washed. The plantations on Hunter's Hill, Strathfinella, and the enclosures of Kincardine, Phesdo, and Mon- boddo, enrich and shelter the lower part of the parish. In a beau- tiful glen, on the east end of Strathfinella, and on the top of a pre- cipitous bank overhanging the Luther, stand the church, manse, and village inn of Fordoun ; and on the other side of the valley, gently sloping to the south, the village of Auchinblae.* Few si- tuations are more happily chosen than that of the church and manse of Fordoun. Embosomed among fine old trees, with Strathfinella ' hill on the right, and the Grampians in the distance, and overlook- ing the Luther meandering down the narrow but beautiful valley, the sides of which are richly covered with wood, it forms a scene of picturesque beauty, which all must admire. This valley is said to have formed the scene so feelingly described in Dr Beattie's poem. Retirement Mountains. — The principal mountainsare the range of Grampians, which form the north boundary of the parish. These mountains are tame in the outline, and do not here attain the elevation they do to- wards the west coast of Scotland, — the average height of the ridge not exceeding 1400 or 1500 feet. There are two subordinate ridges or spurs, which project out from the main ridge nearly at right angles, viz. the Knock Hill behind Kinkell and Mondynes, and the Hill of Ambarrow, and its more southerly termination of Hunter's Hill. The hill of Strathfinella is, however, by far the most prominent feature in the parish. It is one entire mass of sandstone, and is per- fectly isolated, being separated from the Grampians by the narrow valley of Strathfinella, in some places scarcely 100 yards wide ; its extreme length or base is about four miles, its breadth about a mile and a quarter. The outline is tame and unbroken, and its elevation above the sea does not exceed 1000 or 1200 feet, the height above the How being perhaps 700 or 800, while the How or bottom of the valley of Strathmore is here, upon an average, not more than 260 above high water mark. Meteorology.— T\\e temperature of Fordoun is perhaps higher than that of any parish in the county, with the exception of Mary- * A Gaelic name, signifying the field of flowers or of blossoms.— Note by Dr Leslie 70 KINCAUDINESHIRE. kirk aud Fettercairn, and certainly of Upper Banchory ; but, as no correct register has been kept of the range of either the baro- meter or thermometer, it is impossible to institute a comparison between the temperature of the parish and that of any other in the county or in Scotland.* It is the general belief, that the winters are more mild, in this part of Scotland at least, than formerly. Since the severe winter of 1822-23, and pretty heavy falls of snow, which kept the ground for a few weeks in 1827, and 1829-30, snow has scarcely, at any one time, fallen to the depth of two inches ; and for several winters, scarcely so much has fallen as to whiten the ground. On the other hand, the spring months are colder than tradition reports them to have formerly been. The autumn months, in this part of the island, are invariably fine ; and perhaps no months in the year yield so much enjoyment out of doors as September and October. I'he temperature is now more equable, during the whole season, than formerly, the winter less severe and protracted, the summer less sultry, and the spring more tardy and gradual in its approach. This may partly be accounted for by the general drainage which has taken place over the whole island, and by the judicious disposition of the plantations, which, instead of forming, as on the continent, immense forests, here only serve the purposes of ornament and shelter, without preventing the free circulation of air, or the gradual evaporation which takes place in an open and dry country. The climate may be described as dry ; and, towards the upper part of the parish, it is no doubt cold, particularly in the spring months, but it is highly favourable to health and longevity. About fifty years ago, before the marshy grounds were drained, the lower part of the parish was subject to hoar frosts and mildews, which, occurring during the month of August, when the corn was in a milky state, often blighted the most promising crops, and blasted the hopes and prospects of the farmer. At this period, the dry gravelly soils, lying at a considerable elevation above the How, • The lowest point at which the present incumbent ever saw Fahrenheit*s ther- mometer, which is placed on the outside of a window, shaded completely from the sun, and exposed to the north, was on January 22d 18*20, when it fell to 7^, or 25^ below the freezing point, about 8 a. m. that morning, and continued so for nearly two hours. The air out of doors was calm, but excessively keen and piercing. There was a white frost on the ground in the morning, and the barometer stood at 29^. December t]6, 1830. The thermometer stood at 12° at 9 a. m. About noon it rose to 18° ; and before 10 p. m. it was 30°. The thaw that night was most rapid. The highest point that the thermometer was observed to reach at the Manse of For- doun, was one very hot day in July, betwixt 1807 and 1810, the year cannot now be exactly recollected. The thermometer in the shade was 84° about 2 r. m. ; in the open air it rose to afx)vc 90°.— Notes by Dr Leslie. 3 were the object of the &riner*s ambition, being safe from the fogs and boar-frost which infested the lower grounds; and the hnrvests being general); early and always safe, the grain from the Brae of Fordoun was in constant demand for seed-corn, and generally fetched a high price; thus, what produced bankruptcy and ruin to the How farmer, at that period, brought wealth and independence to him of the Braet. Times are altered. Draining is now under- stood, and has been so successfully practised, that not a bog, loch, or swamp, remains in the parish. Deep strong clays are in de- mand ; their value is understood ; and, by the judicious application of lime and other manures, their powers of production are com-, pletely developed. At the period alluded to, agues were common, but such a disease is now scarcely known. There cannot be said to be any prevailing distempers. Table, showing the number of deaths in the parish of Fordoun for tbe last seven years : ¥n t% |1 ii i! ^ Pi ii 'A A 1 *■? *IS "g ■^s 's *s 1828, , fl 1 2 ^^ 4 fi .1 4 4 II 4 non^ 4S i : 1 t> « 1 ■a 7 I83«: . a none 6 1 4 4 4 9 -1 •i a 1 (1 i> 3 none 4 :i 4 A IH3H. . G nono •/ ■1 11 7 t :hi l«H, . 1 1 ' ■> 4 ' •' G lo 3 A 33 ai ,i ■30 •ii IS It .» 27 1 SB M5 1 fl .■2S3 1 Of the 258 persons who have died in the parish during the last seven years, 1 07 were of the age of 70 or above it, and more than half of the whole number was fiO or above that age. One woman, who died in 1634, was married Rfty-hve years. Her husband and all iier family, four in number, are still alive. One of the persons who died in 1834 was 98, another 93, and the third 92 years of age. Rivers. — Two or three small streams take their rise in the Grampian district The most westerly of these is the burn of Craigniston, which forms, for some distance, the west boundary of the parish, and divides it from Fett«rcairn. It is a mere rivulet, and can be stept across at any point before it leaves the parish. The next stream to the eastward is the Ferdun. This stream or rivulet rises in the Grampians, and is formed by two small burns that unite at Clattering Briggs. After running along the west side of Stratbfinella hill, it continues in a southerly direction, until it falls into the Luther below Thornton. Luther Water takes its rise 72 KINCARDINESHIRE. on the hills behind Drumtochty. It runs through the bold and romantic grounds on the west and south of Drumtochty Castle, and at Auchinblae receives a small stream from the hills of Glen- &rquhar. From this it takes a south-easterly direction, passing along the base of the beautifully wooded banks at the manse of For- doun. At Fordoun House it turns in a south-westerly direction, and ultimately enters the parish of Laurencekirk below Pittarrow. The Bervie water also rises in the hills of Glenfarquhar, in this parish. For a considerable distance, it runs in a south-easterly di- rection, until it passes Glenbervie House, winding round the Knock hill ; it afterwards takes a south-west course to Leithfield ; from thence it runs in a south-east direction through the grounds and plantations of Arbuthnott House, and falls into the sea at Bervie. None of these streams are of great size ; they are consequently of little value as fishing streams. The Luther is thought to afford good sport for the angler, but the trouts are small, seldom exceed- ing six or eight inches in length. Salmon are occasionally got in the Bervie, but it can only be considered as a trouting stream. Both these streams, with the tributary burns, afford, however, ex- cellent spawning-ground for the salmon, which are often found as far up as the very base of the Grampians. Geology and Mineralogy. * — The geology of this parish may illustrate that of many similarly situated along the southern decli- vity of the Grampian range. It embraces two parts, a mountain- ous and a level portion ; the former extends to the summit of the chain, which it skirts for a considerable distance ; the latter forms a share of what is called the * How' or valley * of the Mearns,' a remarkably level tract, extending for many miles in a direction pretty nearly north-east and south-west. This how or valley is to be considered rather as formed by contiguous parallel ranges of hills (the Grampians and the low range of Garvock ex- tended into Forfarshire, and forming the valley of Strathmore by their continuation in the Sidlaw range,) than as an im- mediate effect, either of elevating or excavating agency. Ac- cordingly, we find the strata nearly horizontal, and, where expos- ed, but little disturbed. These strata are of new red sandstone, and remarkably follow the southern base of the Grampian chain throughout a great part of its length, conducing to the formation of some highly picturesque scenery. The upper strata are thin, soft, and much variegated by white spots ; the lower ones, which * Geological Notice by Professor Forbes of Edinliurgh. FORDOUN. 73 rise towards the Grampians, assume the conglomerate character, and contain pebbles from the older rocks of great variety of size. This conglomerate, the trap dikes which occur in it, and the man- ner in which it reposes on the transition series, have been minute- ly described by Colonel Imrie in the section of Glenesk, a few miles west of the parish of Fordoun, and which is published in the Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh.* A general simila- rity of character is observable at different points of the chain, but the section in Fordoun parish is less detailed, whilst at the same time it offers some peculiarities. The most ample view is obtained in the course of the Ferdun Burn, which passes the House of Phesdo. We are first struck by the rapid rise of the sandstone strata, for which, however, we soon find an adequate cause in the appearance of a very remarkable trap dike, which has obviously had a most mate- rial share ill this effect, and which leaves us in some doubt as to how far the elevation of the great range was concerned in it. It is a remarkable fact, that in the section here described, the sand- stone strata are actually thrown backy or dip to the north, in con- sequence of this intrusive rock. Nor does the cause seem merely local. There is perhaps not much doubt that this is the same mass which appears in Colonel Imrie's section through the grounds of the Bum. The mineralogical character is similar ; and we have succeeded in tracing the particular dike in question, for a very con- siderable distance on each side of the Ferdun Burn, just above the an- cient British fortress called the Green Castle^ where it was first noticed. To the westward, it may be recognized in the bed of the Craigniston bum, a little above the farm of Bogindollo ; — to the eastward, it is exposed in a ravine in the side of the hill of Strathfinella, where it plunges under an immense bed of gravel. By a careful search we have, however, detected it, not far from the church of Fordoun (several miles to the eastward), close to the road leading to the mansion of Drumtochty. One circumstance which, renders it more easily discoverable is a remarkable one. The sandstone in its vi- cinity is so much hardened as to improve it greatly as a building- stone, consequently it is quarried at several points along the line of trap. Indeed, we find the sandstone modified within a few feet from a loose bed (not deserving the name of rock) to a quartzy consistence. The trap is a well-characterized greenstone, con- taining amethyst ; and its manner of insinuation between the sand- stone strata, sometimes giving the appearance of interstratifica-- • Vol. vi. p. 3. 74 KINCAUDINESHIKE. tion, is exceedingly curious, but could not be explained withput figures. The sandstone below the trap (or nearer the axis of the chain) soon disappears, and we find another remarkable trap for- mation, probably connected with the transition rocks which imme* diately succeed it, and which perhaps finds its counterpart in the claystone porphyry of Colonel Imrie. It is a dark purple felspar- rock, and has the remarkable appearance of a conglomerate, with- out being so, properly speaking ; for we find invariably, that the apparent pebbles are composed of the same material with the basis or ground in which they are contained. Immediately suc- ceeding this rock, we find transition clay-slate of various shades, firom purple to green, and containing a bed of limestone, which, from the rarity of that mineral in this county, has been worked under great disadvantages on the Fettercairn property at Clatter- ing Briggs. Of this bed we also find the counterpart in Colonel Imrie's section, a little above the jasper rocks, which latter are, however, almost, if not entirely, awanting in this more eastern part of the chain. It is, in all probability, the same limestone bed which occurs behind the Mains of Drumtochty. At Clattering- Briggs the ravine divides into two, and to get a complete view we should examine both. We first find the clay-slate, which contains the limestone, intersected by several dikes of highly crystalline red felspar. The slate afterwards passes into something like chlorite- slate, or what Colonel Imrie has called, * primitive aggregate rock,' and finally into mica-slate. One of the felspar beds in this part of the section is interesting, as containing red jasper in dots, which may possibly have somewhat of a common origin with that so beautifully exposed in Glenesk. The left hand ravine carries us towards the Cairn-o'- Mount;* and in its course, these beds are well exposed ; but to perceive the structure of the higher part of the chain, we should follow the right hand rivulet, which descends from the summit of the ridge (mica-slate) by a ravine of consi- derable depth, though little conspicuous at a distance, called the Slack of Birnie, This gives us a full view of extensive formations of red felspar connected with the slate, and an explanation of the origin of the vast quantities of this rock distributed in boulders over the low country. In the eastern part of the parish, the slope of the range is less considerable, and the sandstone is more extended. Hence there FORDOLN. 75 are fewer sections, nor, so far as we know, do they present much of novelty. In this portion of the range, the geographical direc- tion of the hills does exactly correspond with its mineral character, the strata having a more northerly direction than the line of ele- TatioQ. The thickness of the strata is (as has already been hinted at) considerably variable. At the Church and Braes of Fordoun, the height of the sandstone is greater, though the strata remain nearly horizontal. Alluvial Deposits. — The alluvial deposits are not extensive, neither do they materially affect the original nature of the soil ; these deposits are chiefly on Mains of Fordoun and Pittarrow, and on the low grounds below Kincardine, which may rather be distinguished as clay loams than alluvial or haugh-land. A con* siderable extent of pure gravel, occasionally interspersed with patches of clay loam, occurs on the farm of Castleton of Kincar- dine, where it would appear the Ferdun, a rapid mountain stream, has not only carried off the clay, depositing it lower down in the Ifotr, but brought down and lodged vast quantities of stones and pure gravel, of which this part of Castleton is composed, in place of the original soil, carried to a lower level. Many deposits of gravel have been formed by the different mountain torrents, which serve the purposes of building, and for repairing the public roads ; a very fine bank of gravel lies to the south of the manse, on the side of the public road, on the east end of Strathfinella hill. Many others of a similar description might, if necessary, be pointed out. The whole summit of the Grampian ridge is covered with peat moss of different depths, but almost invariably adapted for fuel. There are now no mosses in the lower part of the parish, these, (which were never of great extent) as well as the bogs and swamps, having been converted into arable land. Soils. — The soil is highly favourable for agricultural purposes; in the lower or Hoto district, it is composed of a ferruginous clay, of moderate fertility, but seldom so tenacious as to render it unfit for the cultivation of turnip and other green crops. A deep rich loam runs along the base of the hills, from one extremity of the parish to the other, and the rising grounds are uniformly a brown gravelly loam, well adapted for the grass and turnip husbandry, which is invariably followed. Some detached portions on the borders of the larger farms, consist of a black moorish soil, on a cold clay subsoil, and towards the hills of Glenfarquhar the land is either 76 KINCAUDINESHIRE, of a pale yellowish colour, or black moorish soil, often on a re-r tentive bottom. Zoology. — The different varieties of birds are not so numerous as in the south of Scotland ; but Fordoun certainly is frequented by as many as any other parish in the county. In the hills are grouse, and occasionally, but seldom, black game ; lower down, the woodcock is often to be met with. The snipe, plover, teal, and wild duck are common ; but, from the want of lakes and marshes, these are not so plentiful as formerly. Hawks and kites are abundant, as also the raven, and carrion or hooded crow ; the common rook in myriads. Nqmbers of wood pigeons infest the district, and in winter do much injury to the turnip crops. The common owl and bat are frequently seen in the evenings. The magpie is common ; the jack-daw and jay less so. The thrush, blackbird, chaffinch, lark, linnet, bunting lark, with the robin and wren, form the principal birds of song ; the goldfinch and bull- finch being by no means plentiful. The stone and whin-chat are also to be found in the parish. The missel-thrush, fieldfare, snow-flake, and snow-bunting appear in winter ; the swift, swallow, martin, lapwing, land-rail, and cuckoo, are the summer birds of passage ; the heron frequents the burns, and numbers of gulls may be seen at all times, particularly during the seed time. Phea- sants were introduced some years ago. They are not plentiful, but are still visible at Drumtochty, and occasionally in other parts of the parish. Partridges are abundant everywhere. Sometimes in summer, a stray roebuck may be observed on its passage from the sea to the highlands. The alpine or white hare is occasionally to be met with on the Grampians ; the common hare is abundant, and rabbits far too much so. Rabbits were in- troduced into the county about twenty years ago, and now cause more destruction to the crops than all other descriptions of game in the county. To extinguish them seems hopeless, and the calls for compensation by the tenantry for the injury caused by them are neither infrequent nor unjust. The fox still subsists by ra- pine, but his prey is rather rabbits than poultry, — the hen roosts being now far too well secured to be entered by stealth as for- merly. The otter is seen, though but rarely, stealing along the banks of a stagnant pool ; and the polecat is known rather from his depredations than by ocular demonstration. The hedgehog and weasel are occasionally met with, but the badger is supposed FORDOUN. 77 extinct Moles are kept under by one or two active and well- employed mole-catchers. Owing to the smallness of the rivers, they are only frequented by the trout usually found in similar streams. As mentioned before, the trouts are of no great size, never exceeding a few inches in length, and seldom a pound in weight A stray salmon or sea- trout is occasionally got in the Bervie ; but trout is the general pursuit of the angler. Botany.^ — "Among the native vegetable productions, nothing has been met with having great claim to notice, except LinruBa bo~ realis, which was found in 1834 in this parish.^ This plant, in- deed, was first discovered to be a native of Britain at Inglismaldie, in a neighbouring parish, and though the progress of observation has proved it to be more common, particularly in the northern counties, than was at one time supposed, botanists continue to attach no slight interest to the two-flowered Linnsea. Most of the other species are of the most ordinary description, so that none of them deserve to be ranked among plants which are in any degree rare or curious, except perhaps the few that follow : Cardamine impa^ tienSi narrow-leaved cardamine ; Circcea alpina^ mountain enchant- er's nightshade ; Rubus ckanuBmorus^ cloud-berry ; Trientalis Europcea^ European chick-weed winter-green ; Pyrola rotundi^ folia^ round-leaved winter-green ; Pyrola minor^ lesser winter- green ; Arbutus uva-^ursiy bear- berry ; Vaccinium vitis^Idcea, cran- berry ; Hypericum pulchrum^ small St John's wort ; and Pamassia palustrisy grass of Parnassus. It ought, however, to be added, that it is probable Fordoun possesses botanical treasures of greater value, as tjie native plants of the parish have never, as far as is known, been examined with adequate attention." Plantations. — There are no forests or indeed plantations ex- ceeding the age of seventy years. The oldest plantations are per- haps the wood of Drumsleed, and the remains of the Garret or Garrold wood, on the north flank of Strathfinella hill, opposite Drumtochty Castle. These consist chiefly of Scotch fir and larch, with a few deciduous trees where the soil is favourable. There is some natural birch and oak coppice-wood behind Drumtochty Castle, and in the ravines west of it ; but, with these exceptions, the whole plantations in the parish have been planted within the last sixty years. A few old trees still exist in the old village or rather coun- * Notice on Botany by Dr Murray of Aberdeen. f By Mr David Johnston, Student of Medicine. 78 KINCARDINESHIRE. ty town of Kincardine. Several respectable trees also ornament the old houses of Monboddo and Castleton, and in the plantations of Drumtochty, trees, venerable for their age and size, tower far above the saplings around them. There are likewise a few fine beeches at Phesdo ; and a considerable quantity of full-grown ash, birch, elni, &c. shelter and adorn the church, parsonage, and vil- lage inn at Fordoun. During the last fifty years, a considerable part of the Kincardine estate, belonging to Sir John Stuart Forbes, Bart, has been enclosed, and many belts and plantations formed for ornament and shelter. At Phesdo, much was done by the late lamented and spirited proprietor, in planting and adorning his pro- perty. Many plantations of larch and Scotch fir were formed by the Carnegies, late proprietors of Pittarrow, which shelter and relieve the tameness of the surface in that part of the parish. Belts of larch and Scotch fir, with deciduous trees intermixed, were also planted by the late Mrs Burnett of Monboddo, and there are likewise some plantations, although of no great extent, around the house of Castleton. Mr Drummond, while proprietor of Drumtochty, planted extensively both with resinous and deci- duous plants, and the whole are in the most thriving state imagin- able. Lord Arbuthnott has lately planted about 200 acres of the front of Strathfinella hill, and proposes extending his operations so as to cover the whole front of the hill. There is thus a con- siderable extent of woodland in the parish ; still, from its being dis- posed in masses, and from the want of hedges, and particularly of hedge-rows, the landscape has not that rich and wooded appear- ance, which a more judicious disposition of the plantations would have produced. It may, under this head, be remarked, that both soil and climate are favourable to all kinds of forest trees. Oak, which formerly was rather a reluctant grower, now takes freely, and all other kinds of deciduous trees, when judiciously planted, make a fair progress. Scots firs thrive well, but larches, although rapid growers, are observed to be short-lived, and to decay soon. It is, likewise, observed that forest trees of all descriptions thrive better with a north or north-west aspect, than with a south expo- sure. This is very perceptible in the glen behind Strathfinella hill, and in other situations, and is perhaps owing to the soil on the north side of the hills being generally deeper, and the plants being protected from the sharp sea-breezes that come from the south-east quarters. FOKDOUN. 79 II. — Civil History, Some notices regarding the history and antiquities of Fordoun may be found in the Transactions of the Society of Scottish Anti- quaries, in Lord Hailes' Annals of Scotland, in the Beauties of Scot- land, in Chalmers's Caledonia, in Robertson's agricultural survey of the county of Kincardine, and in Chalmers' Gazetteer of Scot- land ; but the most detailed account of the parish is the former Sta« tistical Report, drawn up by the late Rev. Alexander Leslie, fa- ther of the present incumbent. Traditions,* — " The most remarkable are those connected with the residence of King Kenneth III. at Kincardine Castle, in this parish ; his murder, and the death of Finella. It is agreed upon by almost all the Scotch historians, that Kenneth was murdered by Finella, at or near to Kincardine Castle. The most probable ac- count is, that the King having put to death Finella's son, who had been engaged in an insurrection against him, his mother, Finella, who was of the royal family, and who is still spoken of in the Mearns as a Queen, vowed vengeance against Kenneth. Her castle f or residence, the site of which is still pointed out, lay near to the royal palace of Kincardine, and on the south end of the hill which is still known by her name. Near to the palace, and consequently near to her residence, was a large park or forest, the enclosures of which can still be traced in many places, and which even now, at this distance of time, goes by the name of the King's Deer or Hunting-Park. During the residence of Kenneth at Kincardine, who had come there on his pilgrimage to the chapel of St Palladius, he is said to have gone one day to hunt in this park or forest, and that Finella, having got the opportunity she so much wished for, caused two assassins to way-lay and murder him. She knew that suspicion would fall upon her, and attempted there- upon to make her escape through a forest which lay betwixt her house and the sea, to some place of safety on the coast ; but she was overtaken near to the coast, in a place called ever since Den- finella, where she was put to death. In corroboration of the above account of the murder of Kenneth, it may be mentioned that there was discovered under the pulpit of the old church of Fordoun, a large piece of freestone, 5 feet 1 inch in length, by 2 feet 11 inches in width. On this stone are represented three figures on horseback, placed in a line, one behind the other, and each arm- • Notice by Dr Ixjslic. t Green Castle, or Finella's Castle. 80 KINCARDINESHIRE. ed with a spear. The dress and the horses of the first and third mark them to be of inferior rank. The one in the middle is placed in a separate square, his horse is covered with a cloth, and his dress far superior to that of the others. At his feet, lies what may be con- sidei^d as a sceptre, or at any rate an ornamented spear. To- wards one side of the stone is the figure of a hound, and at the other that of a boar, an animal said to have abounded at that time in the Scotch forests. Now, connecting this stone and the figures with the traditions respecting the murder of Kenneth, it is surely not improbable that it was intended to commemorate that event It was natural to place such a commemorative stone in St Palladius' Chapel, the place to which Kenneth had either lately made, or was about to make a pilgrimage, when he was assassinat- ed ; and when the chapel was about to be stript of its furniture at the time of the Reformation, it was not improbable that it was then pushed under the pulpit of the church for preservation. In the chapel there still remains a hollow stone in the wall, which proba- bly held the holy- water; the niche within which the statue of St Palladius was placed, and before which incense was burned, and a square place in the wall near to it, which probably enclosed the silver shrine with the supposed relicsof the saint. In Vol. ii.. Part 2, of the Transactions of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, there is a particular account of the stone above alluded to, drawn up by the late Professor Stuart of Marischal College, Aberdeen, who was well acquainted with the antiquities of the north of Scotland ; and a most accurate drawing of the stone taken by the Rev. Mr Spen- cer, schoolmaster, Fordoun. The monks, who had the charge of the chapel, had probably been buried in it, as lately, when open- ing up a part of the floor, it was found to be filled with bones placed under regular arches. There is, besides, a vault at some depth under ground." Maps. — A most accurate delineation of this parish is contained in a map of the county, made from actual survey, by the late Mr Gar- den, in 1774, on which are exhibited not only the natural features of the county, the position and direction of roads, rivers, and the boundaries of parishes, but with the most minute detail, the out- line of the different estates and commons, and likewise the extent of the arable, pasture, and wood land. It is by far the most ac- curate and best executed county map yet published. Most, if not all the estates have been more recently surveyed and mapped, to which reference has been made in drawing up this Report. FORDOUN. 81 * " When the old knansion-house of Pittarrow was pulled down in 1802, there were discovered on the plaster of the great hall, to which access was had by a flight of steps, some paintings in a state of high preservation, the walls having been wainscotted, at what period is not known. The air and dust hav- ing thus been excluded, the colours in the paintings were as vivid as if they had been done only a year before. The only one of the paintings that may be noticed here, was that which represented the city of Rome, and a grand procession going to St Peter's. The Pope, adorned with the tiara, in his full robes of state, and mount- ed on a horse or mule, led by some person of distinction, was at- tended by a large company of cardinals, all richly dressed, and all uncovered. At a little distance, near to where the procession was to pass, and nearly in front of it, stood a white palfrey, fine- ly caparisoned, held by some person, also dressed and uncovered. Beyond this was the magnificent Cathedral of St Peter, the doors of which seemed to be open to receive the procession. Be- low the picture was written the following lines : — "In Papam LauB tua, non tua fraus : virtus non gloria rerum, Scandere te fecil hoc deous eximium ; Pauperibus sua dat gratis, nee munera curat Curia Papalis, quod more percipimus. H«ec carmina potius legenda oancros iipitando." The then proprietor of Pittarrow was totally ignorant of these paintings, when he gave orders to pull down the house." " Eminent Characters, — John of Fordoun, the historian, was either a native of the parish, or resided in it when he wrote his his- tory of Scotland. He is called by Bede * venerabilis vir Domi- nus Joannes Fordun, Presbyter.' Although the biographical dic- tionaries give very little information about him, yet it is generally believed that he was a priest in the church of Fordoun in 1377, because he dedicated his history to Cardinal Wardlaw, who at that time was Archbishop of Glasgow. The time of his death is un- known. There are MS. Latin copies of his history in the Bodleian Library, in the British Museum, and in the Advocates' Library, Edinburgh. It is said that all the convents in Scotland, and some in England, had transcribed copies of it, in such high estimation was it held. " That eminent martyr, George Wishart, one of the early re- formers in Scotland, and who was barbarously burned at the stake, * Notices by Dr tiesUe. KINCARDINE. F 82 KINCAHDIME8HIRE. by Cardinal Beaton, on the Ist of March 1646, was a younger sod •of Wishart of Pittarrow. The Wisharts were an ancient and re- spectable family in the parish of Fordoun in 1399 ; how much earlier is not known, and they possessed that property till after the commencement of the last century. It is unnecessary to give any detail of George Wishart's life, opinions, steady and exemplary £ELith, and heroic Christian patience under the cruel sufferings and barbarous death so shamefully inflicted on him, as all these are fully detailed in the histories of that period ; but it may be obsenr* ed, that his example was not lost on his own family, for they ap- pear to have, soon after, thrown off the yoke of the Church of Rome, and embraced the doctrines of the glorious Reformation. ^^ The Honourable James Burnett, Lord Monboddo, one of the Judges in the Court of Session, was a native of and a proprietor in the parish of Fordoun, and one of the first who turned his atten- tion to the modern improvements in agriculture. He went hand in hand with Mr Barclay of Ury in this important work, and by his example, his perseverance, his unwearied exhortations and ad- vices to the farmers around him, and the attention he paid them, he soon made a great change on his own farm and estate, and on the farms and estates around him. As an affectionate husband and father, as a liberal and encouraging landlord, as a warm and steady friend to the British Constitution, as an able and faithful judge, and a man of science, as an excellent classical scholar, as a grammarian, and intimately acquainted with the literature and philosophy of Greece and Rome, he was not excelled by any in the last age. His work on the Origin and Progress of Language, (the first volume of which was published in 1771, the second in I773» and the third in 1776,) has placed him high in the rank of the emi- nent literati of the last century. He was born in 1714, married in 1760, was deprived of his lady by death in 1766, was raised to the Bench in 1767, and died in 1799. His beautiful and accomplish^^ ed daughter, Miss Eliza Burnett, the constant nurse and compa- nion of her parent, whose sweetness of manners, benevolence of heart, excellent principles, and religious feelings, justly gained her universal admiration, died of a consumption at the age of twenty- five. Her affectionate parent, whose life was bound up in her's, rapidly declined after her death ; and he often declared that nothing but those glorious hopes of immortal life through Christ, which the Gospel sets before us, could have supported him under the heavy stroke/* FORDOUN. 83 " Dr Beattie was for several yearsschoolmasterat Fordoun, before he removed to Aberdeen. At Fordoun, many of his smaller poems ' were composed. See an excellent life of Dr Beattie, drawn up by the late highly distinguished and most benevolent Sir William Forbes, Bart, of Pitsligo." Professor Beattie, born at Fordoun 16th April 1767, son of David Beattie, elder brother of Dr James Beattie, author of the Minstrel, — was educated at the school of Laurencekirk, a^4 entered Marischal College, Aberdeen, November 1780, and be* came A. M. in April 1784. He studied theology till 1787-8, when he taught the classical department of the second class in Marischal College, as assistant to Dr George Skene ; and was appointed Pro- fessor of Civil and Natural History in that College, and inducted 22d October 1788. Professor Beattie taught twenty-one sessions with great applause, and was a most effective and enthusiastic teacher, to whom good pupils were greatly attached. He died on Thursday 4th October 1810. A monument was erected to his memory, in 181% by a subscription among his pupils. Alexander Crombie, Esq. of Phesdo, one of the eminent cha- racters of whom this parish can boast, is mentioned particularly afterwards. Land-oumers, — The land-owners or proprietors in this parish are. The Earl of Kintore; Viscount Arbuthnott; Sir John Stuart Forbes of Pitsligo and Fettercairn, Baronet; •Dr' Crombie of Phesdo ; Mr Burnett of Monboddo ; Mr Mitchell Nicolson of Glenbervie : Mr Gammel of Drumtochty ; Mr Forbes of Castle- ton ; Mr Carnegie of Redhall ; Mr Arnott of Leithfield ; and Mr Kinloch of Kair. The feuars of Auchinblae hold of Lord Kintore and Mr Burnett of Monboddo. Parochial Registers — The earliest entry in the baptism regis- ter is dated June 4, 1693; in the session-register, September 9, 1747. The parish registers have been regularly kept since then. Antiquities, f — " On the farm of Castleton of Kincardine, be- longing to Sir John Stuart Forbes of Pitsligo and Fettercairn, Bart., stand the ruins of the Castle or Royal Palace of Kincar* dine. This castle either gave its name to the county, or took its name from the county in which it is placed. There are no re- cords stating the period when this castle was built, or when it was last occupied. It was a royal palace previous to the death of ■ Author of Gymnasium, Natural Theology, &c. f Notice by Dr Leslie. 84 KINCARDINESHIRE. Kenneth III. in 994, for it was occcupied by that monarch at the time of his murder by Finella. This palace or castle seems to have been a place of considerable strength. A morass surround- ed it, a great part of which has been drained within the last thirty years. It stands on the termination of a small ridge, at an eleva- tion of about sixty or eighty feet above the adjoining meadows, and has a very commanding view of the most beautiful part of the How o' the Mearns. It appiears to have been of a quadrangular shape, of which little now remains except the foundations of some walls, built with all the solidity common in former ages. It was in Kincardine Palace, as Lord Hailes says, (Note, Vol. i. of his Annals, page 293, Sd edition,) that John fialiol resigned his crown to Edward I. of England, July 2, 1296 ; and he quotes the record of this in Rhymer's Foedera, Tom. ii. page 718. As this is the last event of importance on record connected with the his- tory of this palace, it is not improbable that it was destroyed in the wars betwixt the Scotch and English which followed that event The village of Kincardine, now diminished to a few houses, once extended from the ground at the foot of the castle to near Fetter- cairn House. It was the county town, and the residence of the sheriff, who held his court there until the reign of James V|., when it was removed to Stonehaven. The village had its chapel, and its burying-ground near the chapel, its west-port, and its east- port, and its cross, the site of which is still marked near to where the chapel stood. The cross was removed to the market-place of Fettercairn about a century ago. The names of the fields con- tiguous to the castle or palace still retain an allusion to a royal re- sidence. One park is called *' The King's Park," in which, some- time ago, a falcon's head was found. Another, as tradition says, was called " The Chancellor's Park ;" and a large tract of ground, extending from near the castle to the Grampians, and part of the enclosures of which is still visible from the road which leads to the top of the Cairn o' Mount, is known by the name of * The Royal,' or « King's Deer,' or * Hunting-Park,' and probably was the park in which Kenneth was assassinated. Opposite to the Castle of Kincardine, and at the distance of a few hundred yards only from it, is the farm of ' Gallowhill,' commonly called ' Gallowhill Stone,' from a large stone which is said to mark the place where criminals were executed. A road lay from the castle across the morass to this place ; and in enlarging the roads through that farm, several stone chests have been found, of coarse 4 FORDOUN. . 85 workmanship, but containing the skeletons of bodies laid out at full length, and the bones untouched/' On the opposite side of the valley, on the west flank of Strath- finella Hill, near the Mill of Kincardine, and overlooking the Ferdun, stands (as tradition reports) Finella Castle or Green Castle, which gave name to the hill, on the slope of which it is situated. It is placed on the top of the east bank of the Ferdun. Above the average height of this brae or bank, and on a distinct platform of mould earth, a circular basin is raised to the height of 30 or 40 feet, being in all 80 or 100 feet above the river. The interior of the castle forms an enclosure of perhaps nearly one- fourth of an acre in extent ; and is surrounded by a green mound, of from 20 to 25 feet in height : the opening is towards the north- east* "f* ^' Near Fordoun House is part of a camp or Roman station ; it is about 90 yards long by 50 wide. Of this camp nothing now remains except the praetorium ; but in the younger days of the present clergyman, he found old people who could trace to him a considerable part of the outlines of the camp, which were most extensive, and had been defended by triangular forts, at the diffe- rent corners, by outposts, and by a deep morass at the lower ex- tremity. It was capable of containing a large army. These out- works have now been levelled, and the morass has been turned into a dry and very productive field. In trenching that morass, the heads of several Roman spears were found, one of which is now in the possession of John Carnegie, Esq. Redhall. A gold ring, similar to what we are told the Roman knights wore, was also found ; and a number of bones have been dug up in various places near and at a greater distance from the camp. Part of these were enclosed in rough unhewn stone chests, and fell to dust when they were exposed to the air, — part of them buried under cairns, and severals were laid in the open fields, and were acci- dentally turned up by the plough. In those urns which were found entire, there were generally a considerable quantity of calcined or half-burnt bones. The urns themselves were of clay, of very rough * From the circular shape of this artificial mound and its material, it hat been doubted whether it ever was a residence, as here stated, but rather one of those Pict- ish or British forts, commonly called rings, and found in similar situations in other parts of Scotland. To accommodate this theoiy to our historical accounts, a pro- bable site may be found for Finella's Castle in the remains of a vitrified structure near Balbegno, in tlie adjoining parish. f Notice by Dr Leslie. 86 . KINCARDINESHIRE. manufacture, but retaining^ the marks of the strings with which they had been bound round, probably when forming. * ^' In a retired glen, called Friars Glen, above Dnimtochty, and closs to Finella hill, there are the foundations of a small firiarj. The lands were granted by charter to the Carmelites by James Fraser of Friendraught, 1st May 1402, and this charter was con- firmed by King Robert, 12th October 1403. A more secluded and retired situation for a friary could not have been chosen. A small green hill was on one side, and a similar one on the other ; the Grampians to the north and Finella hill to the south. A beauti- ful, clear stream of water ran past the friary, and there was room in the glen for a garden, and pasture on the hills for a few sheep. The feu-duty of this glen was made over by Earl Marischal to the Marischal College of Aberdeen, and sold within the last thirty years to the proprietor of Drumtoc)ity. ^' On the hill above Newlands, there are the remains of what is commonly called a Druidical Temple, and a similar one in a dump of trees near Castleton, on the estate of William Forbes, Esq. ^^ On the farm of Mondynes, in the east end of this parish, or Monethynes, as that farm was originally called, there is a large stone erected in a conspicuous part of a field, evidently intended to commemorate some remarkable event This stone, in the younger days of the tenant of West Mondynes, was called the ' King's stone,' and a field, near the farm-house, is still known by the name of * Duncan's shade' or * field.' Professor Stuart, already alluded to, has, in the above-mentioned volume of Transactions, shewn, by a number of circumstances therein stated, that that stone, in all probability, commemorates the death of King Duncan IL who is said to have been murdered by the Earl or Thane of the Mearns. " A few old coins of our James's, both copper and silver, have been dug up in different places of the parish, but none of them of any value." Modern Buildings, — There is no mansion-house on the estate of Kincardine, the proprietor. Sir John Stuart Forbes, Bart residing at Fettercairn House, in the adjoining parish ; but much was done for the improvement of the estate by the late Sir John Stuart, Baronet, and after him by the late Sir William Forbes of * Means have now been adopted by the noble proprietor to presenre this Roman camp from being farther encroached upon by the plough, not the least penevering of innovators. 3 POUDOUN. 87 « Pitsligo, Bart, who erected a splendid mansioti tn the old English style, on that part of the estate situate in Fettercaihi pafisli, id the Statistical Account of which parish it naturally falls to be noticed. Phesdo. — This estate, with that of Pitnamoon, in this parish, and Thornton, in the parish of Marykirk, was purchased, about thirty years ago, by the late public spirited proprietor, Alexander Crombie, Esq. Advocate in Aberdeen, who employed his occasion- al intervals of relaxation from the pursuit of a lucrative and labo- rious profession, in improving and embellishing it in eVery way that wealth, guided by taste, could direct Possessed of a sound judg- ment, a retentive memory, invariable sweetness of temper, and un- wearied application to business, few have led a more useful and honourable life, or died more respected and lamented than Mr Crombie. The friend of the rich and powerful, who confided in his judgment and integrity, and were directed by his counsel, he was no less the friend of the poor and afflicted. To him thd humble always had access, were invariably received with kindness, obtained assistance, advice and protection. None ever were known in anger to leave him, and few but retired happier than when they entered his presence. Hours were daily employed by him in set- tling differences, adjusting disputes, and in transacting gratuitously the business of those, who could not pay a fee to others for doing it Upon completing his purchase, Mr Crombie found the only shelter to his old and ruinous mansion was a few old firs, and about a dozen of beech trees, at a considerable distance from the house. Marshes covered with rushes, and an undivided common approach- ed within a few yards of his door. To drain, to plant, and build was his delight for the last thirty years of his life, and under his hand, not only the mansion-house and grounds around it, but the whole estate assumed a different aspect, and Phesdo is now not only one of the most elegant houses, but the grounds are among the most ornamented and best sheltered in the county. The house erects ed by Mr Crombie, at great expense, is a most substantial fabric It is built of granite, brought from Aberdeen, (a distance of thirty miles,) and is a plain Grecian building, with a fluted Doric portico. It stands on a small knoll, at the base of Strathfinella Hill, sur- rounded by plantations, tastefully disposed, commanding a fine pros- pect of the Grampians on the right, and a rich and extensive view of Strathmore in front The approach^ garden, and offices are judiciously laid out, and complete in every respect In addition to this, the whole of the waste land on the estate has been reclaim- 88 KINCARDINESHIRE. ed or planted. Many plantations and roads have been formed or improved, the burns and water-courses straighted, and the farm- houses, cottages, and steadings rebuilt or repaired, so as to be su- perior to most in the county. On Pittarrow there is now no mansion-house. A fine old tower, which formed a prominent object in the *^ How," was pulled down a few years ago. Fordoun House, (Viscount Arbuthnott's,) is a better sort of farm- house ; it is in tolerable repair, and, with a moderate outlay, might be made a pleasant residence, as the situation is most eligible. The house with the farm is let to a tenant. Monboddo is an old house, but in tolerable repair. The situa- tion is good, and the plantations judiciously laid out, and in a thriving state. This place derives importance, from having beep the birth place and patrimonial estate of the late Lord Monbodda His daughter, the late proprietrix, Mrs Burnett, did much in im- proving the estate, which now belongs to her son, who resides at Monboddo. Castleton, William Forbes, Esq. although a mere farm-house, yet from the disposition of the garden, and a few remaining plan- tations, this place still retains something of the appearance of a > mansion. It is occupied, along with the farm, by a tenant. The only remaining mansion to be noticed is Drumtochty Castle, which, although the last described, is certainly the first in importance. The small property of Drumtochty formerly belong- ed to Mrs Mackenzie, who inhabited a snug and unpretending cottage, on the site of which the present mansion stands. Situated on a steep bank, on the north side of a narrow valley, enveloped by plantations of considerable extent, in which the graceful birch predominates, and surrounded by lofty mountains, it may be questioned if the view of the present lordly mansion ever gave half the pleasure to one possessor of sound judgment and taste, which the former humble cottage afforded. The cottage seemed just adapted for the size of the glen, and the place it occupied, and was then well known to all as the abode of worth and un- pretending hospitality. The estate was purchased about thirty years ago by George Harley Drummond, Esq. of the well known banking-house in Charing Cross, who laid out vast sums on build- ing, in planting, and enclosing the estate. Under his direction, a house was erected in the style of castellated Gothic, from designs FORDOUN. 89 by Mr Gillespie Graham, architect, at an expense, it is said, of L. 30,000. Plantations were formed with much taste, skirting the glens, and covering the sides of the mountains, bogs drained, ap- proaches made, and porter-lodges erected ; walks, many miles in extent, were carried through the plantations, and the greater part of the estate substantially enclosed with stone fences and hedges. A residence was thus formed of a peculiar character. The house stands a few feet above the Luther, here a brawling stream, on a small platform, scooped out of a steep, indeed nearly a perpendi- cular hill, covered with wood. Below is a meadow extending along and filling the whole bottom of the glen for a couple of miles. In front, is Strath Finella Hill, (the base of which is clothed with thriving plantations,) rising to the height of 700 or 800 feet above the narrow valley. Behind the castle is a bank, which rises almost perpendicularly, and is covered with copse and full-grown trees, and beyond this, at a very little distance, are the Grampians, the sides of which, as well as the diflFerent ravines, formed by the mountain streams, are finely fringed with natural birch. The house and grounds are much visited by strangers, being, strictly speak- ing, the only show place in the parish, and, excepting the " Bum^^ in the county. The estate now belongs to Mr Gammell, who is seldom resident Spinninff'MilL — There is only one spinning-mill in the parish, viz. for flax, at Auchinblae. This mill was erected about forty years ago, by a much respected and public-spirited individual, the late Mr Kinnear. The materials used for building are freestone, generally of a reddish colour, with which the parish is plentifully supplied from quarries in different parts of it The freestone obtained is only adapted for ruble work, — most of the stones for rybats, lintels, &c. being brought from Woodston or Laurieston, on the coast^side. Drumtochty Castle is veneered or faced up, on the outside, with a beautiful blue schist, found on Dallavaird, in Glenbervie parish ; but there can be little doubt but the same vein runs along the base of the Grampians through this parish. III. — Population. A return of the population appears to have been made by Dr Webster in 1755, another by Mr Garden, when constructing his valuable map of the county in 1774, and another by the Rev, Alexander Leslie, the former incumbent, in 1791. 90 KINCARDINESHIRE. Table of the population from 1755 to 1881. Yeart. Males. Femaks, ToiaL 1755^ 1800 1774. 2400 1791, MoB 1100 2256 ]80I, 1050 1173 2228 1811, 1197 1338 2535 1821, 1113 1202 2875 1831, 1070 1166 £238 No great increase or decrease has taken place in the population of this parish. Being, until lately, purely agricultural, any varia- tion that occurred must have been occasioned by the enlarged size of the farms, and the decrease of the cot-towns, more particularly of Kincardine. The reduction thus caused in the agricultural po- pulation has been more than compensated by the extension or ra- ther creation of the village of Atichinblae, the only village in the parish. But although the greater part of the inhabitants of this village are employed in trade or manufactures, still many of them occupy crofts or village acres^ and may be considered as belong- ing to the agricultural population, which, it would thus appear, has not materially been diminished by converting the small &rms into larger ones. The only village in the parish, viz. Auchinblae, contained in Males. Females. TotaL 1791, . 100 1821, . 404 1831, . 224 263 487 In March 1^34, . 271 279 550 Auchinblae in 1831 contained, . . 487 Country parish in do. . . . 1751 Males, Females. Total, The average yearly number of births for the last 7 years, 30 32 62 of deaths, 16 21 33 of marriaj^es, 19 According to the census of 1821, the average number of persons under 1 5 years of age was . 828 betwixt 15 and 30, . . 608 30 and 50, . 505 50 and 70, . . 358 upwards of 70, . . . V 6 Two noblemen, viz. the Earl of Kintore and Viscount Arbuth- nott, have estates in the parish, besides nine commoners, — thus making the proprietors of land amount to 1 1. The rental of each greatly exceeds L. 50 yearly. The only heritors or individuals of fortune resident are, Dr Crombie of Phesdo; Mr Burnett of Mon- boddo ; Mr Carnegie of Redhall ; and occasionally Captain Gam- mell of Drumtochty. Two mansions, viz. Fordoun House and Whiteriggs, are let to farmers. FORDOUN. No. of Inhabited Uninhabited families. bouses. bouses. 1801, 490 465 41 1811, 543 513 18 1821, 554 493 13 1631, 522 463 21 1834, 545 484 91 The number of insane people in or belonging to the parish are 2j fatuous 6, blind 2, deaf 1. The above person isjotally deaf, but can read and speak a little. Character of the People. — The people are in general regular in their religious duties, and orderly in their conduct They are cleanly in their persons, and dress well, — indeed, it is a common observation, made by strangers, that nowhere is a more respectable, better-looking or better dressed congregation to be seen in a country church, than in that of Fordoun. Considerable amend- ment has taken place in the cleanliness and economy of both farm- houses and cottages, but as to ornament there is still much room for 'improvement. The tenantry are a highly respectable class, and their manner of living is similar to that of the better sort of farmers in other parts of Scotland.* Amongst the agricultural labourers, marriages are not contract* ed at a very early period. There is a general desire to save some- thing to procure *' providing" for the bride, and to enable the bridegroom to furnish his cottage in a tolerably comfortable man^? ner. In endeavouring to do this, and to postpone their union un- til prudence should sanction it, passion sometimes gets the better of principle, and the consequences are obvious. The average number of illegitimate children, bom yearly in the parish, is 4, exclusive of those who are rendered legitimate by the subsequent union of their parents. The people are regular and decorous in their religious duties, and generally moral in their conduct ; and although that keenness for disputation on religious subjects, so common in the west and south of Scotland, does not prevail here, still their sense of reli- gion, and its influence in promoting our happiness here, and its necessity to our salvation hereafter, is not less sensibly felt or de- * It is customary in this parish, and indeed in the district, to designate fanners not by their Christian names, but by the names of the farms they occupy, or contrac- tions of them. Thus the tenant of Pitnamoon is familiarly known by the name of FitnanMwn or Pitmen of Westrooston by that of Wysie ; Odmiston, Cambegg, Drnmtochty, Drumsleed, &c. respectively by OddiCt Carme^ DrutM and DrummU, The practice of designating proprietors by the names of their estates is likewise com- mon in the northern counties of Scotland. 92 KINCARDINESHIRE. voutly acknowledged. Their respect and regard for their pastor is unbounded.* During the long period that the former clergy- man, and, since his death, the present incumbent have been minis- ters of Fordoun, they have reason to be proud of the support re- ceived from all classes in the discharge of their duties, and, as a proof of their success, it may here be stated, that in 1801, there were 257 Dissenters in the parish, — at present the whole Dis- senters of every description are reduced to 89, of whom only 8 are Seceders. A marked alteration has taken place in the reading habits of the people. For the histories of Wallace and Bruce, of Robin Hood and Little John, George Buchanan, Jack the Giant-killer, Leper the Tailor, and many other worthies that formerly amused the inmates of the smithy, the cottage and farm-kitchen, books of history, travels, voyages, biography, agriculture, and, above all, books on religious subjects, are now substituted. The parish li- brary furnishes an ample store of these, and the number of readers who apply for books, especially in the winter season, is very great Smuggling is now happily unknown, nor, as in some other dis- tricts, has poaching been substituted for it. IV. — Industry. In order to exhibit the industry of the parish of Fordoun, the following classification of the population may be adopted : — Male*, Femalci. TotaL Population of the parish of Fordoun, . 1118 1220 2d88 Inhabited houses, ..... 484 FamUies, ..... 645 employed in agriculture, . ' . 292 in trade and manufactures, , 135 all other fiimilies, . . 118 545 Males upwards of 20 years, .... 606 Agriculture. Occupiers who constantly employ and pay one or more labourers or farm-servants in husbandry, . . 57 Occupiers of land who employ no labourers other than of their own family, .• . . , 71 Labourers in husbandry, and farm-servants employed by occupiers of the first class, .... 229 Manufacturers, or employed in manufacture, . 55 * Their regard for their former pastor, and for his son, their present pastor, has been uniform and steady. It was deeply felt by their former pastor, and is no less gratefully and sensibly felt by the present incumbent, who has laboured among them with great comfort for^many years, and who delights in his old age, to recoUect and recount all their kindness and attention to him and his father.*- Note by Dr LesJie. FORDouN. y:i Employecl in retail trade and handicraft, . . 117 Wholesale traders and capitalists, clergy, professional and other educated men, . . . 10 Labourers not agricultural, • . . 24 All other males of twenty years, viz. superannuated, diseased, &c 43 606 All female servants, . 152 Affriciilture. — Table showing the extent and disposition of lands in the parish. UncuHivatad Arable. Wood. ground. Total. Imperial acre% . . 11,330 2159 14,240 27,735 The undivided common land may amount to about 200 acres ; of the waste land, capital could not be profitably employed, in bringing much into cultivation, — probably not more than 300 or 400 acres in the parish would pay the expense of improve- ment In forming plantations, larch, Scots fir, and spruce are gene- rally planted, either for nurses, or for a crop ; when planted as nurses, the plantation is generally filled up with oak, ash, elm, beech, birch, sycamore, &c. ; little regard being paid how far the soil may be adapted to their growth. As the deciduous trees grow up, the resinous trees are thinned out to make room for them, but invariably too little attention is paid to pruning the trees intended to form the crop. The value of thinnings, and of wood cut down and sold in the parish, does not exceed L. 180 yearly. Rent^ Sfc. — The valued rent of Fordoun is L. 7129, 5s. 4d. Scots. The real rent, taking into account the rise that will be obtained, in two or three years, upon the expiry of some leases of fifty-seven years' duration, will not be less than L.1 ],420 Sterling; but upon this rental no great increase can be anticipated for many years. A moderate deduction being made from the gross rental for the sheep pasture in the Grampians, the rent per imperial acre of the arable land will be about 19s. 6d. Few or no cattle or sheep are taken in for grazing by the head, grass fields being usually taken for that purpose ; but the main- tenance of a cow is estimated to be worth L. 6, 10s. yearly, of which L.3, 10s. may be the proportion for the summer six months. The summer grazing of an ox or bullock may be L. 2, 5s. ; and for the whole year, L. 4. A full-grown sheep may be grazed for the whole year for 2s. 6d. in the Grampians ; but in enclosed lands, the maintenance for the year will vary from 6s. to 10s. ; but if fed 94 KINCARDINESHIRE. off on turnips, a greater remuneration will be expected. It is, bow- ever, difficult to state with precision the expense of grazing or main- tenance of any kind of bestial, as farmers are in the practice either of rearing or purchasing the stock for their farms ; and much must depend upon the way in which bestial are boiight or reared, and the state of the markets when they are sold. Wages. — The rate of labour may be as under : half-yearly ser- vants: unmarried ploughmen from L.6 to L. 8, 10s., with two pecks of oatmeal weekly, and an allowance of milk and potatoes, with lodging and fuel, generally in a bothie. Unmarried half-year labourers are from L. 5 to L. 6 ; boys from L. 1, 10s. to L. 3, with the usual allowance of meal and milk in the bothie. Married dleo- servants are engaged by the year. They generally get a house and garden, maintenance for a cow, and L. 8 to L. 10 of wages, with six and a-half bolls of oatmeal ; they also get an allowance of po- tatoes or ground for raising them, with a few barrels of coals and brushwood for fuel. Women servants for farm-work, if engaged for six months, get in summer from L. 8 to L. 4, 10s., and in win- ter about L. 2, with victuals in the kitchen ; and if engaged by the day for farm- work, 8d. in winter, and lOd. in summer, but without victuals or lodging. Harvest work is very often let by the acre, at from 7& to lOs, for cutting, binding, and stooking when cut by the hand ; and from 5s. to 7s. when cut by the scythe ; and when cut by the threave, about dd. In none of these cases do the labourers get victuals. When shearers are engaged for the harvest, the wages for men is about L. % 5s. ; and for women, L. I, 15s., with victuals and beer. In addition to cutting the grain crop, they are usually bound to assist In taking up the potatoe crop. Farm-labourers per day, in winter. Is. 2d. ; in summer. Is. 8d. ; and dykers, ditchers, hedgers, quarriers, &c. from Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. according to the season of the year and the activity of the labourer. There are few or no home manufacturers in this parish. Little linen is made, and that not for the market; neither are any coarse woollen cloths manufactured. Strong cotton cloth or Irish linen is used for shirts by the ploughman, and his jacket and trowsers consist of velvet or west of England cloth, his great-coat only be- ing of Scotch manufacture. The prices of raw produce may be as under : flax, of which little is raised for sale, costs per stone of 14lb. 7s. ; wool, from 7s. to FOBPOUN. 95 Os. per stone. Wheat, per quarter, L. 2, 12s. ; pease and beans, L. 1, 6s.; barley, L. 1, lOs. ; oats, L. 1, 2s. ; potatoes, per boll, 7s. to 9s., or L. 8 per acre ; turnips, L. 2, 10s. to L. 4 per acre; hay, 4d. per imperial stone. Hens, Is. to Is. 3d.; ducks. Is. to Is. dd. ; chickens and ducklings, lOd. to Is. per pair; turkies and geese, 2s. 6d.eacfa ; eggs, per dozen, 6d.; butter, per Ib.7d.; cheese, per lb. dd. to 6d. ; beef and mutton, 5d. ; pork, 4d. ; veal, 6d. Lime, per boll, 2s. lOd. ; gray slates, per 100, 10s.; blue slates, Dunkeld, L.2, 5s. per 1000; Eisdale, L. 2, 12s.; tiles, L.4; stones for building, 6d. per single load; double load, 9d. lOd. Mate of Labour and Mechanical Work. — Masons per day in sum- mer, i2s. 6d. to ds.; in winter, Is. lOd. ; carpenters, in summer, 2s. dd. in winter Is. 8d., all without victuals. Plasterers and slaters generally work by the piece. Ruble mason-work, when carriages and price of materials are included, generally costs per rood of 36 ells, from L. 6, 10s. to L. 7, 10s. When materials and carriages are afforded, the price of labour per rood is from L. 1, 10s. to L. 1, 16s., with an additional charge for hewn work, levelling the walls, &c A double korse cart costs from L. 10, 10s. to L. 12; a plough, L. 3 to L. 3, 10s. ; and a pair of harrows, L. 1, 2s. Live-Stock, — The horses employed in husbandry approach nearly to the Clydesdale breed, and much pains have lately been taken to im- prove them, both in strength and symmetry, by the introduction of prize stallions from the west of Scotland. The prevailing colour is black, but many pairs of bay horses may be seen in the parish, and occasionally a chestnut or strong grey of the old German extrac- tion. Ploughs are invariably drawn by two horses, and double horse carts still are used, although carts drawn by one horse are more frequent than formerly. The breed of cattle is the pure Angus or Aberdeen polled breed, — the principal points of both being nearly the same. Great care has of l&te been taken to improve this breed ; and nowhere in Scotland are 6ner cattle to be seen than here, — all crosses or mixture with the Galloway, the short- horned, or any other breed, being carefully avoided, and, with the exception of the stock be- longing to one individual, there are no cross-bred cattle in the pa-» rish. In regard to the exception alluded to, the cross is between a short-horned bull and the Aberdeen or Angus cows, — they are reared under favourable circumstances, and the produce is entirely fed and sold by the breeder, so that there is little danger of the 96 KINCARDINESHIRE. cross being extended to a remote degree. Many objections are urged against the general introduction, into the north of Scotland, of the Durham or short-horned breed of cattle'. They no doubt, upon ^^ good heepj* rise to a greater weight, and feed at an earlier age ; but they do require this, and they cannot travel any distance to market, either in a lean or &t condition. In the London mar- ket they sell at least Id. per lb. below the Aberdeen or Angus ox, and in a dull market, they remain in the hands of the salesman at least until his Angus^^ are disposed of. Care must also be taken to preserve the purity of the breed, as the produce of a cross is ge- nerally the most coarse and unshapely animal possible. On the other hand, the Aberdeen and Angus cattle possess almost every good property. Their temper is nearly equal to that of the Durham ox ; if well kept from their infancy, they rise to a great size, and will fatten when risings only three years old, although, it must be ad- mitted, not with the same facility as the pure short-homed breed or first cross from it. When fat, they will travel a great distance to market, to Edinburgh and Glasgow, at least 100 miles, and when sold for the road, their first halt is usually in Leicestershire. The practice, now become common, of sending fat cattle to London by steam vessels, has already materially influenced the cattle trade in this district. Instead of the greater part of the growth of the pa- rish being bought up by dealers in the spring or mid-summer mar- kets, and carried up to England to be grazed and fed off, many of the farmers now feed all the cattle they rear. The best of them are carried to London by sea, where they fetch a high price, the re- mainder being bought up for the Glasgow and Edinburgh markets, where they also find a ready sale. In Glasgow, particularly, the Angus cattle form the prime fat in the market. The sheep are entirely confined to the Grampian range ; they are generally of the black-faced or mountain breed, and the usual care is taken to improve the stock by purchasing lambs or year- lings at the Linton and Lanark fairs. About 600 black-faced wedders are bought in by the farmers, and fed off on turnips, and this practice is yearly extending ; they are, as in other districts, fed on turnip, to which bone manure has been applied. About 690 of different descriptions are bought in and grazed, partly in the glens and partly in enclosed land, during summer, and these are sold either as fat to the butcher, or to farmers to be fed in winter. Of late, some of the Cheviot breed have been introduced, the value of the wool being now an object to the breeder. FORDOUN. 97 Pigs form a very considerable article of produce, and the breed is excellent Fat pigs are sold to the pork-curers in Montrose and Stonehaven. By them the pork is pickled, and generally sent to the London market Husbandry. — The rotation usually followed is thefive-shift course, viz. 1. turnip and potatoes, &c ; 2. barley ; 3. grass ; 4. grass ; and 5. oats. Where the strength of the land warrants, the four-shift course is adopted, and on some farms the seven-shift course is pre- ferred, viz. turnip, barley, pasture three years, and followed by two successive white crops ; but these rotations are only exceptions, the five-shift course being that generally followed. A small pro- portion of the breaks intended for fallow and green crop, is allot- ted for potatoes, the remainder being generally turnips. When the quantity of dung on the farm is insufficient to manure the break, the deficiency is supplied by the application of bone manure, almost the greatest modern discovery in agriculture. The turnips raised by bone manure are fed off by sheep. Barley, it will be seen, is thus extensively grown, wheat and beans not entering into the rotation ; and flax can scarcely be said to be cultivated. All the lighter operations of farm work, such as hoeing, raking, reap- ing, spreading dung, assisting in the barn, are performed by fe- males, whose ruddy appearance indicates the healthy nature of their employment. The crop is partly cut down by the sickle and partly by the scythe, the last method of cutting, in consequence of the difficulty of procuring reapers, becoming yearly more prevalent Although the appearance of the crop, both in stook and stack, is rather rough and slovenly, still those who have made trial of both me- thods affirm that both grain and straw are taken up as well, in every respect, by mowing as by the sickle, and owing to its being less compressed in the sheaf, is ready for the stack in much less time than grain cut by the hand. Ten people accustomed to the work will cut down, take up and stook, on an average, five impe- rial acres daily. Improvements. — Although no improvements, on a great scale, have been executed in this parish lately, still, for the last thirty years, the progress of draining the wet land, and reclaiming the waste ground, has been pursued with much ardour, and in this laudable under- taking, both landlord and tenant have been unremitting in their exertions. Lime was formerly more liberally applied than at pre- sent ; perhaps the difficulties with which the agricultural interest KINCARDINE. G 98 KINCARDINESHIRE. has had to contend for some years past, may have prevented the application of so expensive a stimulant, and probably it oiay, in some measure, be superseded by the application of bone manure. Both are most favourable to the production of grass, but the bone manure at the same time secures a crop of turnip, which lime does not. Leases. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years, and, to the credit of both landlord and tenant, they are generally re- newed between the parties. Farm-Buildinffs. — The farm-buildings may be considered as substantial, and nearly sufficient for the accommodation of the farms. The farm-houses are generally two stories high, with a kitchen attached ; others are in the cottage style, and only one storey : they are almost invariably well finished and slated^ and furnished in a style conducive to comfort. The steadings are also slated, or partly so ; and perhaps in no parish of the same ex- tent, has the comfort and convenience of the tenants been more attended to. Obstacles to Improvement. — The greatest obstacles to impravement are the want of enclosures, and the want of shelter ; and although around the proprietors' residences, there is a considerable extent of planting and of enclosed ground, still the parish may be considered as deficient in this respect. Thorn hedges have not succeeded well ; perhaps the soil is not sufficiently strong to rear them, so as to form complete fences, but it is to be apprehended that the mode of treat- ment has been far from judicious. As a substitute for thorns, whin hedges have been partially introduced. Several enclosuies have been formed by stone dikes ; but these are very limited, as there is a deficiency of field stones for erecting fences, and even for the necessary purposes of drainage ; and most of the freestone quarries are on the sides of the different ridges that project out from the Grampian range, and at a considerable distance from many parts of the parish. Both stone dikes and thorn hedges form very expensive fences, altogether beyond a tenant's means, and often that of the landlord. Thorns require to be constantly cleaned and pruned, and to be protected for a period of years by paling. Whins form a cheap and a pretty efiectual fence ; but objections are made to them, particularly on account of the ten- dency they have to spread and overrun the grass-fields. Strong belts and hedge-rows for the purpose of shelter are much wanted. FORDOUN. 99 for protecting the fields from the gales that blow from the Orun- pians, and from the sharp easterly sea-breezes. As the whole of Fordoun parish is tolerably well watered, — the soil well adapted for grazing, there cannot be a doubt that its productive qualities would be greatly increased by enclosing'][and planting in a judicious manner. To do this, however, on a great scale, the combined efforts of landlords and tenants are requisite, and the stone-dike, the thorn, and whin hedge should be resorted to as circumstances required. On a lease of nineteen years, the enclosing and planting ought to be done at the landlords' expense, the tenant paying a certain rate of interest If the lease is ex« tended to twenty-seven or thirty years, the tenant might contribute his share of the expense. If the fence is of stone, the tenant might perform the carriage, — if of thorns with ditch and dike, he ought, at least, to clean, prune, and partly to protect, and if an earthen dike, with whins on the summit, the tenant undoubtedly should take charge of the fence after the landlord has completed it. There being a scarcity of stones for draining, tiles might be advantageously used. The proprietor should pay the prime cost of the tiles, the tenant paying the interest^ besides cutting the drain, carrying and laying the tiles, and covering in the sur&ce. In general, farm-buildings are erected at the landlord's expense^ the tenant contributing as his share only the carriage of materials, or the expense thereof; but on one or two estates, a good deal more than this is left to be done by the tenant, a practice which cannot be too much reprobated, as withdrawing a part of the te- nant's capital from its more legitimate purpose, — the improve- ment of his land. There are several quarries of freestone in the parish, which are fully adequate to supply materials for its architectural purposes, particularly for ruble work. It is difficult to say what the yearly produce of these quarries may amount to, as they are in the hands of the proprietors, who only dispose of the surplus produce after supplying the necessary demands of their estates ; perhs^s the whole amount obtained for stones actually sold does not exceed L. 120 or L. 140 yearly. There are no fisheries in the parish, the rivers being only of value in so far as they serve for spawning-ground for the salmon. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce may be as under : 100 KINCARDINESHIRE. Table I. Gross Produce. — Pease and beans, 360 quarters at L. 1, 68. . . L. 468 Wheat, . 120 do. at L. 2, 12s. . 312 Barley, 6,160 do. at L. i, IDs. 9,240 Oats, . 12,294 do. at L. I, 2b. 13,523 8 L. 23,543 8 Pease, wheat, barley, and oat-straw, 18,934 quarters at 5s. . 4,733 10 Potatoes, 5660 bolls at 7s. L. 1981 Turnips,* 14,100 tons at 7s. 4935 Hay, 103,000 stones at 4d. 1700 Pasture, 3932 acres at L. 1, 2s. . 4325 4 6,916 6,025 4 Wood sold yearly, 1 80 Quarries, , 120 Produce of orchards, mosses, &c. not worth mentioning, Total, L. 41,518 2 Table II. Perhaps the following table may exhibit a more accu- rate state of the capital and produce of the parish, its disposition, and how much is available for the general use of the community : Live Stock, — 1. Horaes, 306 used in agriculture, "} 48 carriage, poet, gig, and saddle horses, f .^ t o* t a o«u A O 9 carriers' horses, f « 1.. Z4, l..V,j|M u w 28 foals reared annually, J 2. Caftie. 24 bulls at L. 10« L. 240 679 cows, of which 50 are kept in Auchinblae, at L. 8, . 5,432 1863 young cattle, of one, two, and three years old, at L. 6, . . 11,178 767 calves reared, at L. 2, 1,534 20 do. fed, at L. 2, . . 40 742 cattle, bought in for grazing and feeding, at L. 7, . 5,194 23,618 3. Sheep, 2l00sheep, at 14s. . . L. 1,470 745 lambs produced, at 9s. 335 5 70 ewes bought, at 10s. . . 35 900 wedders bought and grazed, or fed off on turnip, at 18s. . . 810 2,650 5 4. Pigt, 778 pigs reared arfd fed, at L. 1, 4s. 933 12 5. Pottltry. 3386 poultry kept, including turkies, geese, ducks, and hens, at Is. 3d. . L. 211 12 6 6694 poultry reared, at 6d. . 167 7 13,148 dozen eggs produced, at 6d. . 3^8 14 6. Dairy Produce* 32,592 lbs. butter made at 7d. . L. 950 12 16,296 lbs. cheese made, at 3d. . 203 14 707 13 6 1,154 6 • Value, L. 38,447 16 6 * III statements of this nature, perfect accuracy is unattainable; but in the present FOKDOUN. 101 Table III. Grots Produce. — No- »«■ Produce acres un- I . Fallow and green crop, der crop. ^ Pease and beans, Potatoes, Turnip, Fallow, 2. Grain crop. Wheat, Barley, Oats, a Grast, Hay, Pasture, 120 283 1410 453 40 1760 2732 600 3932 3 quarters. 20bolU 10 tons 3 quarters. 3ido. 44 do. Quantity produced. 360 at 26s. 5660 7s. 14,100 78. 120 52s. 6160 dOs. 12,294 22s. nOstoo. 102,000 4d. Valua. L.468 1961 4935 312 9240 13,523 8 1700 22b. per acre. 4325 4 11,330 Straw of pease, wheat, harley and oats, 18,934 quarters, at 58. Wood sold yearly, .... Quarries, ..... Produce of orchards, mosses, &c not worth mentioning, Disposable Produce. 1. Cattle. Fat cattle sold, 384. at L. 13 average. Lean do. 1127, at L. 8, Calres, fat, 20, at L. 2, Pigs* 743, 80 lb. each, at 3^d or average value, 24s. each, From which deduct price of 742 cattle bought in, at L. 7 per head, Upwards of 100 head of cattle, and 80 calves may be slaughtered and consumed in the parish yearly, their value may amount to L.1070. 2. Sheep. Lambs sold, 270, at 9s. . . L. 121 10 Ewes, 400, at 12s. . . 240 Wedders, 990, at L. 1,4s. . . 1188 36,484 12 4,733 10 180 120 L. 41,518 2 L.4992 9016 40 866 16 8 14,914 16 5194 8 L.9720 16 8 Value of wood sold, Deduct hogs bought in, 200, at 10s. wcddcrs, 900, at 1 8s. ewes, 70, at 10s. 1549 10 150 L. 1699 10 L. 100 810 35 945 About 200 ewes and wedders, and 100 lambs may be slaughtered in the parish annually, the value of which may be about L. 270, l)csides the weekly supply of butcher meat brought fVom Montrose, Stonehaven, &c. 754 10 Carried forward, L. 10,475 ^6 8 case, no pains have been spared to approximate to the truth as nearly as the nature of the inquiry would admit of. Intelligent individuals in every district of the parish have been applied to for information, which has been most readily and carefully afforded ; and the writer firmly believes, that the amount of produce ot bestial, &c. stated un- der the branch of ** Industry," represents an average of yeara more truly than the amount taken from the most perfect information in any one year covld possibly do. 102 KINCARDINESHIRE* & Poultry. Turkies, geese, hens, chlckeiiSy ducks and duck lings, 2641, at 9d. Eggs> ^44 dozen, at 6d. 4. Dairy-produce, Cheese, 7100 lb. at Sd. Butter, 20,000 lb. at 7d. 6. Grain, Wheat, 90 quarters, at L. 2, 128. Pease and beans, 270 quarters, at L. 1 , Os. Barley, 4840 quarters, at L. 1, lOs. t)ats, 4918, da at L. 1, 2s. Biought fimrard, L. 10,475 6 8 L.99 9 148 12 847 12 9 L.88 15 563 6 8 672 1 e L. 11,395 1 1 L.234 861 7260 5409 16 Potatoes, 1600 bolls, at 7s. Hay, 12,000 stones, at 4d. 13,254 16 L.560 200 760 14,014 16 Value of produce disposed of by the growers, L. 25,409 17 1 This may appear a small sum applicable for rent, expense of production and interest on capital, but it is to be kept in mind that the tenant's family, servants, horses, &c. are maintained, and seed-corn, &c taken from the undisposed produce. Manufactures. — The manufactures are conBned to spinning of flax into yarn, and its manufacture into brown linen. The only spinning mill is that at Auchinblae, originally erected by Mr Kin- near, and now belonging to Farquharson and Company, where about 60 people are employed, who work about eleven hours and a half daily. The hands employed are 16 men, from 8s. to L. 1 per week ; 6 boys from 2s. to 7s. per week ; 38 women and girls from 2s. to 5s. 6d. per week. The yarns manufactured by them are, 45,000 spindles flax yarn per annum, value 25,000 do. ton yam per annum, value L.6200 3800 70,000 spindles yarn spun, . Value L. 10,000 In addition to this, a number of hands are employed as weavers in Auchinblae, of whom some are natives of the parish, but many come from other parts of the country, and do not generally re- main long in one place. By these, about 29,700 spindles are made jnto 117,680 yards of linen, the value of the yarn being about L. 3712, and of the linen L. 4640. The price paid for weaving averages Id. to l|d. per yard. Com^Mills. — There are five corn-mills, situated in different parts of the parish, with drying kilns attached. At none of these FORDOUN. 103 is wheat made into flour. Almost every farm, of the extent of 100 acres and upwards, is accommodated with a thrashing-mill. They are driven either by water or horses, according to circumstances. FeUercaimClub. — The Fettercairn Club, for the improvement of the breed of live stock, includes amongst its members a great propor- tion of the proprietors of the county, and most respectable tenantry of the district The club is open to members from any part of the country, but stock can only be exhibited which has been bred by agri- culturists in the parishes of Fettercairn, Fordoun, Laurencekirk, and Marykirk, members of the club. This club has been in existence for several years, and is conducted with the greatest spirit and una- nimity. Since its formation, a most marked improvement is per- ceptible in the quality of stocky particularly of the native breed of cattle ; and at the annual show, which takes place in August, the stock exhibited attracts the admiration of every amateur present. In corroboration of what is stated, it may be mentioned, that at the Highland Society's general show, which took place at Aberdeen in October 1834, which was open to all Scotland, but more par- ticularly to the counties of Forfar, Aberdeen, Banff, Moray, and Kincardine, one- sixth of the whole prizes were carried off by mem- bers of this club ; and, what is more remarkable, these premiums amounted to nearly one-third of the value of the whole premiums given by the Society. It may also be remarked, that of about fif- ty-four premiums given for stock at the general show alluded to, twenty were gained by competitors from Kincardineshire, a suffi- cient proof of the great attention paid to this branch of rural eco- nomy in the county. V. — Parochial EcoNOMy. Villages. — The Kirkton of Fordoun can scarcely be called a vil- lage, for, beside the manse and school-house, it can boast of only the neat and rural '* Fordoun Inn^^ and two or three additional cottages. Auchinblae, the only village in the parish, stands on the opposite side of the valley, on a gently rising ground. It contains many substantial houses, and is altogether a clean and thriving place. The government- is vested in a bailie, appointed by the Earl of Kintore, who is the superior, and the population amounts to 550 persons, partly employed in manufacturing linen and linen yarn, m the retail trade, and as artisans and occupiers of the croft land ad- joining the village. Its distance from Stonehaven is 11 miles; from the port of Gourdon, 8; and from Montrose, 16j to which places the communication is easy, either by turnpike or good com- 104 KINCARDINESUIllK. mutation roads. Auchinblae enjoys the advantage of a daily post, with runners both to Stonehaven and Montrose. Commutation* roads are carried in all directions through the parish ; and the ex- tent of roads of this description cannot be less than forty miles. Much attention is bestowed by the trustees in keeping them in re- pair, each being desirous of obtaining as large a share of highway and bridge money as possible for his own district, and no less de- sirous of expending it in the most judicious and economical man^ ner. Bridges are thrown across the different streams where neces- sary, and are always kept in good repair. The turnpike road from Aberdeen to Edinburgh through Strathmore runs through the lower part of the parish for about three miles, along which two coaches, " the Defiance'* and " Uniony* convey the natives daily, either to Edinburgh or Aberdeen, with the greatest ease, safety, and dispatch. Ecclesiastical State. — The church stands in the most beautiful spot in the parish ; and, although in as centrical a situation as could have been selected, still several of the parishioners have from four to six miles to travel in order to attend divine worship at their own parish church. The church is a handsome edifice, erected in 1828-29, at an expense of not less than L. 3000. It is in the Gothic style, from designs by Mr Smith, architect, Aberdeen, and consists of a nave (but without side aisles,) with a Gothic tower on the west end, rising to the height of ninety-three feet, forming a striking object from all quarters. The church is finished in a neat and even elegant manner, superior to most parochial churches in Scotland. It is seated for 1230, and is fully equal to the accom- modation of the parish. The church (with the burying-ground) is surrounded by a wall of substantial masonry, and is approached by an elegant gateway. The manse was repaired in 1809. It affords considerable ac- commodation, though not in the modern style. THe situation of both church and manse have been already described. The glebe contains about the statutory number of arable acres, viz. four Scots, or five imperial acres. The soil is excellent, but there is no grass glebe attached to it. Its yearly value may be about L. 10 or L. 12. The whole teinds of the parish are bishops* teinds, and former- ly belonged to the Archbishop of St Andrews. They are now the property of the Crown, of whom they are held by the different pro- prietors of the land, either on lease, or by tacit relocation. The FORDOUN. 105 present stipend, by decree of moditication dated 4th December 1833, amounts to 130 bolls, 9 stones, lOlbs. meal; 95 quarters, 2 bolls, 3 pecks, 2 gallons, barley, imperial weight and measure, and L. 10 for communion elements; or 136 bolls meal, and 136 bolls barley, Linlithgow weight and measure, and L. 10 for com- munion elements. There is still a considerable amount of unex- hausted teind in the parish, the teinds of only one estate having been surrendered. The whole of the parish is supposed to come under the denomination of church lands. The number of Dissenters in Fordoun is very limited. They con- sist chiefly of a few families attached to the doctrines of the Epis- copal Church. There are neither chapels of ease, dissenting cha- pels, nor government churches in the parish, the great body of the people being members of the Established Church. State of Religion. EstablUhed Ej, There were in the pa- Church. ri8hinl79l. . 2001 1801, 2101 1811, 2414 1821, . 2276 1831, . 2159 1834, 2279 The number of communicants belonging to the Established Church in 1834 was 1234. There are no societies for religious purposes established, the annual examinations and periodical visitations of the clergyman being deemed, and justly deemed, sufficient for the purposes of re- ligious instruction. These examinations are numerously and punc- tually attended, and the visitations are looked forward to as the means of cementing and promoting that intercourse and good feel- ing which ought always to subsist between a clergyman and his pa- rishioners. Education. — There are six schools in the parish, viz. the paro- chial school, and five others taught by individuals, who have only to trust to the fees they receive as a remuneration for their trouble, there being no endowment, or even annual subscriptions made for that purpose. Besides these, there are two schools taught by fe- males, where girls are instructed in reading, writing, and needle- work. The branches of instruction taught at the parish school are, reading, writing and arithmetic, mathematics and Latin, and if required, Greek ; the branches taught at the other schools are reading, writing, and arithmetic The school salary at Fordoun is L. 35, I2s. 1 Id., and the amount of fees is annually about L. 15* jpaKana, Secedeti and Roman Independentt. Catholics, 106 151 None 89 33 None 85 32 4 74 23 2 61 18 None 81 8 1 106 KINCARDINESHIRE. The schoolmaster is besides session-clerk, the emoluments of which office amount to about L. 8 yearly. The number of scholars educated at the different schools amounted, in March 1884, to 312, of whom 184 were boys^ and 128 girls. The schools are best attended from November to May. During summer the attendance is not numerous. The parish schoolmaster has also a Sunday evening school for six months in the year ; it is attended by about 70 scholars. The parish school-house, as well as the schoolmaster's house, are large and com* modious, and considerably exceed what is considered as the legal accommodation. There are few, if any natives of the parish, and residing in it, who have reached the age of fifteen, who cannot read. The greater part who have reached that age have been taught to write. Literature. — A parish library was instituted in 1827. It now consists of about 610 volumes, chiefly religious, but including also books on history, biography, voyages, travels, &c The number of readers is considerable, and yearly increasing. They amount in the winter season to about 200, who read gratis. The school- master acts as librarian. Besides the parish library, there is also a small Sunday school library. Although Fordoun cannot boast of any public reading-room, or news-room, yet newspapers (often of doubtful principles) are easily obtained and eagerly read ; there is consequently no lack of politicians sufficiently liberal in their principles, and irregular in their practice. Charitable Lisiitutions. — There are none ; but there are two Friendly Societies, viz. The Ploughman Society, consisting of about 200 members, and the Weavers' .Society of 70. The mem- bers of both societies contribute Is. per quarter. They give allow- ance to sick, and to aged and decayed members. Fordoun parish bank, instituted in May 1815, is limited to male and female servants, crofters, labourers, tradesmen, including weav- ersand mill-spinners. It is lAanaged by twelve directors, a treasurer, and a clerk. The minister acts as treasurer, and the schoolmas- ter as clerk. Depositors are obliged to withdraw their money, and place it in the British Linen Co. when the sum reaches L. 20. Formerly it was limited to L. 10. The books and vouchers are examined annually, and attested by an auditor chosen by the di- rectors. FORDOUN ■ Sums depotiied jfearly Swm wUh iMUrtti tpith mierett. rep aid yearly. Half-year of 1615, L.d96 ^ L.31 Withm the year 1816, 802 . 96 1817, 260 m 122 1818, 889 • . 184 1819, 880 » , 252 182U, 441 • « 265 1821, - . 424 m m 296 1822, 421 „ m 800 1828, 898 • . 805 1824, 874 . . 294 ]»25, 570 * • &34 1826, 897 « • 422 1827, 538 m * 600 1828, 818 • . 592 1829, 780 _ • 614 1830, 577 m . 740 1881, 580 . • 415 1832, 671 _ . 717 1838, 598 • . 610 1834, 659 • - 608 107 ToUl received, L. 10,858 ToUl paid, L. 7708 « January *1, 1835. — The balance in the Bank amounted to about L. 2650 : the number of depositors at present is 280. A considerable part of the sums repaid were transferred to the public bank, — and the vouchers for L. 1000 of these sums were left till January 1835, in the hands of the treasurer of the parish bank, who gave his receipt for them, and drew the interest on the 1st January every year, and paid it to the depositors, along with the interest on deposits in the parish bank, — but the treasurer finding he had now fully enough to do with the parish bank matters, the greater part of these vouchers were delivered up, January 1835, to their owners, it being understood that the Treasurer of the parish bank would assist them in drawing the interest on the sums de- posited in the public bank, when it became due. Poor and Parochial funds. — These consist of a fixed invest- ment in feu-duties, bearing five and a half per cent, interest of about L. 600, and of L. 400 lodged in the bank, or laid out at interest. The late Alexander Crombie, Esq. of Phesdo, was most anxious about the support and comfort of the poor. Observing the increase of the poor, and the diminution in the means of their support, from the fall of the interest of the capital in the hands of the kirk-session, he, at the loss of L. 150, part- ed with the above-mentioned feu-duties, in order to form a per- manent and steady fund for the support of the poor, and also be- 108 KINCARDINESHIRE. queathed L. 100 at his death, to be added to said fund. Collec- tions for the poor in 1834, L. 90, 9s. S^d. — Donations received during the last ten years from heritors and others, of from L» 1 to L. 12, L. 185 ; legacies to the session within same period, L. 190 : in whole, L. 375, or L. 37, 10s. yearly. These include Mr Crombie's legacy of L. 100, and L. 50 from the late Mrs Valentine Bogendollo, who was born, and resided during the greater part of her lifetime, in the parish of Fordoun, and L. 50 of legacy from the late Mrs Burnett of Monboddo, received in April 1835. The whole sum at the disposal of the kirk-session, arising from donations, legacies, collections at church- doors, feu-duties and interest of money, thus amounts to about L. 170 yearly. The ordinary number of poor on the monthly roll is 48: these receive an allowance from 2s. to 5s. according to their necessities. The extraordinary poor amount to 40. These get occasional relief as circumstances warrant. The annual distribution to the poor amounts to about L. 160. The session have had to pay, for the last three years, above L. ^5 annually for the support of lunatics. Collection in 1834 for the general Assembly's Mission to India L. 6, 7s. Collection in 1833 for the General Assembly's Schools in the Highlands, L. 7, 7s. 6d. There is a public collection once a year for religious purposes, and an annual collection for the Aberdeen Infirmary. The amount of this last averages L. 10 yearly, which secures to patients from this parish admission on favourable terms. It is a matter of daily observation and regret, that the repug- nance felt by the poor of Scotland, to receive charity in any shape, is by no means so strong as formerly. It is still considered as degrading to a certain extent, in this parish, and few, it may be said none, ever apply for aid, who are not fit objects of charity. Prisons, — There are no prisons or lock-up houses in the parish ; all prisoners, when apprehended by the constable, being either carried to the nearest Justice of Peace, or before the Procurator- fiscal in Stonehaven. To its credit, there have only, during the last seven years, been apprehended in the parish, 2 ; committed for trial, 2 ; convicted, 2 ; both were for assaults. Neither of the culprits were natives of the parish. Fairs J Sfc, — Paldy fair is the most considerable market ; it is held on a moor, about two miles north from Auchinblae, at the foot of the Grampians, in the month of July, for the sale of cattle, shee]), and horses. Of late, this market has been on the decline. Ano- FORDOUN. 109 ther market, also for the sale of horses and cattle, has been lately established, or rather revived, in the west end of the parish, viz. Lammas-muir. This is likewise held in July, and the day appears judiciously chosen, as being one of a series of fairs, held on suc- cessive days, commencing in Aberdeenshire, and terminating at Kinross. Two fairs are held in Auchinblae, viz. Pasch market in April, and May-day on 22d May, and term markets for en* gaging servants on 26th May and 22d November. These are nu- merously attended. Weekly markets or crofts^ as they are called, for the sale of cattle and grain, also in Auchinblae, are held every Friday during winter. They begin in November, and end in April. There are two small fairs or cattle-markets about the middle of June and July on Camack muir, on the lower part of the parish ; — they are but indifferently attended. Inns or Alehouses. — There is one inn at the Kirkton of Fordoun ; and five in the village of Auchinblae. This number is certainly too great. Auchinblae also boasts of one spirit -dealer. In the country parish, there are three public-houses. Fuel. — Coals, mostly from Newcastle, constitute the principal part of the fuel in the lower part of the parish, in addition to which, a small supply of peat from the Grampians is obtained. Brushwood, but in no great quantities, is also occasionally to be procured. In the upper part of the parish, the fuel is chiefly peat and turf from the summit of the Grampians, where the peat-mosses are extensive, and of very considerable depth. Coals cost Is. 2d. a barrel of about 1^ cwt It is diflScult to say what the cost of peat and turf may be, perhaps about 4s. per load. Miscellaneous Observations. The most striking alterations betwixt the present state of the parish, and that which existed at the time the last Statistical Ac- count was made up, are : the erection of several splendid man- sions, and of a parish church ; the extension and improvement of Auchinblae ; the extension and general improvement of public roads ; the very marked alteration in the houses and steadings of the tenants and crofters, and the general improved condition of the dwellings of all classes. The planting and improvement of waste land is not the least alteration that has taken place, neither is the improved state of husbandry undeserving of notice, as the following tables of ground under cultivation, and number of live stock, extracted from the Agricultural Survey of the county, a work 1 10 KINCARDINESHIRE. » tlrawD up in 1807, considerably posterior to tlie former Statistical Account of the parish, will shew. Table shewing the extent of arable land, and how cultivated in 1807. Pease^ • - - 250 Potatoes, - - - 94 l\irnip, ... 760 FlM, . . - 88 Fallow, . . .175 Wbert, - .80 Barley, - - -1309 Oats, - - . 2608 Oraps, - - - 4020 III Gardens, - - - 84 Arable land in 1807, - 9308 2d3 815 13 48 16 28 048 679 80 1575 2605 580 787 2500 3615 SO 778 Do. in 1835, 11,330 Table shewing live-stock in 1807, and in 1835. 1807. 1835. 1 Hoitet, Used in husbandry. Riding horses, &o. Foals reared annually, 2. Cattle, Cows, - . - Draught oxen, Young cattle, one, two, and three years old, CaWes reared, - - - 3. Sheep, - - - - 4. Pign and Swine. - - - Farms are of all sizes, from the crofi of two acres to the farm of 600, the general extent of farms being about 200 acres. Per- haps no greater improvement could be effected, or greater boon conferred by landlords upon the agricultural population, than a more judicious disposition of the size of farms. These ought to be of all sizes, and adapted as well for the capital of the great agricul- turist, as for the savings of the thrifty ploughman, or industrious labourer. By attending to this, scope would be given to the exer- tions of the humblest individual. The ploughman would strive to become an overseer, the overseer a crofter or small farmer, and bringing his experience and sagacity into operation, in time a large farmer. The improvements of which this parish is susceptible have been already adverted to, viz. inclosing, planting, and drain- ing. Perhaps a conversion, upon equitable principles, of money into grain rents, wotdd also he an improvement Some satisfactory instances of this have already taken place, and it is hoped, this mode of adjustment may become general. During the last year in which the property tax was levied, (1815,) the value of heritable property in the parish assessed, amount- FETTEUCAIRN. 1 1 1 ed to L. 8873, 9s. 9d. ; and the amount of property tax paid was L. 1151, 12$. 4d. Amount of assessed taxes for 1815, was L. 614, 8s. lOfd. Number of persons assessed about 85. The above were war taxes. The amount of assessed taxes payable for 1834 was only L. 225, 5s. 3d. Persons assessed, 60. The land tax of the parish is L. 66, 9s. Id. ; of which redeemed, L.46, Os. 2d. leaving payable annually, L. 21, 8s. lid. ; highway and bridge money being an assessment payable only by proprietors, at the rate of L. 1 per L. 100 Scots, valued rent, L. 71, 58. 10^. Conversion money in lieu of statute labour, payable by tenants and occupiers of property at L. 1 per L. 100 Scots ; but of this only one-half is collected in money, say L. 35, 12s. lid.; and for the other half statute labour is still exacted. Rogue money, on an average of se- ven years, amounts to 4s. 6d. per L. 100 Scots valued rent, say L. 16, Os. 3d. Drawn up 1835, IlevUed 1837. PARISH OF FETTERCAIRN. PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ALEXANDER WHYTE, A. M. MINISTER. I — Topography and Natural History. Name. — This parish is supposed, by some, to have derived its name from its vicinity to the Caim^-o- Mounts a part of the Gram- pian mountains, over which the pubHc road to Aberdeenshire passes, and to which it begins to ascend, at a small distance, to the north of the village. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish of Fettercaim forms the ex- treme western division of Kincardineshire, on the south side of the Grampians. Its length, from south to north, is 8 miles, and itsgreatest breadth, from east to west, 4^. It contains about 13,192 imperial acres, or about :20 square miles of surface. It is bounded on the north and north-east, by the parish of Fordoun ; on the east and south- east, by the parish of Marykirk ; on the south and south-west, by part of the parish of Marykirk, and the river North Esk ; and on the west and north-west, by part of the parish of Edzell and the Grampian mountains, which separate it from the parish of Stra- chan, iu that direction. 1 12 KINCARDINESHIRE. The highest part of the Grampians, here, does not ascend nnore than 1600 feet above the level of the sea. Their angles of ascent range probably from SO'' to 40°. Their lower undulations, as they slope down to the plain country, give a diversi6ed and pleas- ing, but not a hilly appearance, to the landscape. Meteorology. — A register of the weather, kept from 1816 te 1886, by an intelligent observer in the parish, (from which the years ending 1st September 1817, 1821, 1826, and 1831, are se- lected as likely to give a fair average of that period,) — leads us to conclude that there were dry days in each year, 222 ; wet days or days in which rain, hail, sleet, or snow fell, in some quantity or other, 143; majority dry, 79. No. in oich season thus, No. of dry days in each year, wet days do. Miyority dry do. Days on which the south wind blew, west do. north do. east do. Calm or yariab1e» From this statement, it may be inferred that, on the whole, the climate is good. Accordingly, invalids,, who require change of air, often derive much beneBt from it during the summer season. Still, at other times, the sudden changes of temperature, and the fre- quent prevalence of cold fogs and hoar frosts, are very apt to pro- duce all the varieties of inflammatory affections, which are the most common diseases. Hydrography, — In the hill above Fasque, there is a spring of a distinctly chalybeate character. There is another, about one- fourth of a mile below the village, on the Fettercairn estate. In many other places in the parish, the water seems impregnated with iron, from the quantities of oxide of iron which appear in the bottoms of drains, and other situations, where it converts the stag- nant water into a coagulated state. No iron rock has been dis- covered near these places. No rivers take their rise in or run through this parish. But the North Esk, aflter it issues from the mountains, forms the boundary between it and Edzell, for the space of nearly four miles. This river then runs almost due east, for about nine miles, and enters the German Ocean, a few miles north of Montrose. In the neighbourhood of The Burn, its banks -$» ts • ^ . ^^ ^§ ^^ ^1 1^ ?^^ 5S^ 1* g »? 4^ Q ^ 61 52 50 59 222 Si 87 42 33 148 79 a2 19 17 23 91 25 23 24 18 90 14 15 16 22 67 8 9 18 10 45 16 22 19 15 72 FETTERCAIRN. 113 are very precipitous. In some places, it has there worn a bed to itself, through the rocks, to the depth of from 20 to 30 feet be- low the level of the conterminous grounds. Geology and Mineralogy. — A particular account of the geological peculiarities observable in thechannel of the North Esk has been pub- lished in the sixth volume of the Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. That account was carefully drawn up by the late Colonel Imrie, who lived several years in this parish, and paid great attention to matters of this kind. He has observed in that article, that '^ the various strata, standing in a position vertical or nearly so, and the river cutting across these strata at right angles, the succession is uncommonly well exhibited, and a fair display of the structure of the country, and of the materials composing it, to a great depth, is open to the attentive observer." The limits of this paper do not admit of a particular description of the Colo- nel's discoveries. It may be remarked, however, that he found, either in a detached or stratified form, or in a state of combina- tion, distinct specimens of silicious grit, or red freestone, quurtz, felspar, granite, mica, porphyry, whinstoue, argillite, or thinly slaty rock, jasper, limestone. These different kinds of rock are in every sort of position, and often mixed together in irregular masses. From the granite to the plum-puddingstone, almost all the intermediate varieties may be seen in some form or other. Specimens of many of these kinds are also observable in the beds of the burns or rivulets, which run past Balnakettle, Dallalie, and Bogendollo. Porcelain clay of fine quality is found in the banks of the first of these streams. Mr Robertson, in his Survey of Kincardineshire, has mentioned a substance which has been occasionally found on the farm of Bal- nakettle, and which he has assumed to be native iron, and has tra- ced its origin, apparently, on the theory of La Place, Dr Hutton^ and others, to some convulsion in the moon. The analysis, how- ever, which he has given of its component parts differs very widely from that which Mr Howard gave, of the specimens of the Afri- can and Peruvian native iron which he analyzed. Some have thought that it is nothing more than part of the sweepings of a smithy, formerly in that neighbourhood ; while others have believ- ed that it might have been a kind of coarse iron imperfectly fused and brought hither from Dalbog, a few miles distant, where an iron mine seems to have been wrought little more than a hundred years ago. A description of Great Britain, printed in London in KINCARDINE. H 114 KINCARDINESHIKK. 1708, mentions this place in these words : " They find plenty of iron ore near the wood of Dalbog." Bog iron ore, of the latest formation, has been found in the neigh- bourhood of the village. Large fir and oak trees, in a good state of preservation, have been found at great depths from the surface of the ground in different places in the parish. In some places, the soil is alluvial ; in others, it is a stiff clay of a brownish colour. Deep moss prevails in some low situations ; and gravel, with a thin sprinkling of moss or vegetable mould, is often observable on the higher grounds and moorish lands. Zoology » — On the hills, the red grouse abound. The alpine or white hare is occasionally seen. In the woods, all the usual kinds of birds are to be met with. Black game has become ra- ther numerous of late. The woodcock is an annual visitor and residenter from October to March. Pheasants have been intro- duced, but have not multiplied to theextent desired. In the North Esk are all the varieties, except pike, of fresh water fish ; but salmon have rarely ascended above a water -fall near The Burn- house, till of late, when the fall has been lowered to let them up the river. Perch and other kinds of fish abound in the lakes at Fasque and The Burn. Hares and partridges are numerous in the fields. All the other kinds of animals common to the country, whether wild or domesticated, are to be seen. II. — Civil History. Land-otoners. — The land-owners of the parish, in the order of their valued rents, are. Captain M'Inroy of The Burn and Arnhall ; John Gladstone, Esq. of Fasque ; Sir John Stuart Forbes of Pit- sligo and Fettercairn, Bart ; Sir Alexander Ramsay of Balmain, Bart, late M. P. for Kincardineshire; The Hon. Donald Ogilvy of Clova and Balbegno, Colonel of the Forfarshire and Kincar- dineshire Militia; The Right Hon. the Earl of Kintore; Miss Robertson of Dalladies ; The Right Hon. the Viscount Arbuth- nott, one of the sixteen representative Peers of Scotland, and Lord l^ieutenant of the county. Maps^ Sfc. — There is no map of the parish, except what is con- tained in the maps of the county by Garden and others, or in the plans of the different estates belonging to the foregoing proprie- tors. By these plans, it appears that it contains less surface, by at least 1000 imperial acres, than the quantity stated by Garden, and by the writer of the last Statistical Account, on his authoritv. Till that Account appeared, there was no history of the parish. 4 FETTERCAIRN. 115 Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers extend backwards to 1669, with partial interruptions, which were occasioned, in part, by the burning of certain portions of them, in consequence of the adherents' of the Stuarts having set fire to the school-house, where they were deposited, in 1745, the inhabitants being attach- ed to the interests of the Hanoverian family. Antiquities, — The death of Kenneth IIL, King of Scotland, in 994, is believed by some to have taken place in this parish. His- torians difier as to the circumstances. John of Fordoun and his followers tell us that he was shot by an arrow, from a curious piece of mechanism, in consequence of a plan which a lady, of the name of Finella, had devised, to be revenged for her son, Crathilinthus, whom he put to death for certain heinous crimes which he had committed. Winton, Buchanan, M'Pherson, and others, make him fall by the hands of a body of conspirators, who suddenly rose upon him in Fettercairn, as he was directing his course to the shrine of St Palladius, with a view there to unburden his mind of sins which troubled it much. The late Professor Stuart of Ma- rischal College, Aberdeen, published a paper in Vol. ii. Part ii. of the Transactions of the Antiquarian Society of Scotland,' in which he laid it down as a probable conjecture, that the King was assassinated in a hunting-match in the neighbourhood. This the- ory he founded on certain figures^ representing a hunting-scene, cut on a grave-stone, which was discovered in the churchyard of Fordoun some years ago, and supposed to commemorate this event. All seem to admit, however, that Finella had a hand in the tra- gedy. Buchanan terms Finella's place of residence " the Castle of Fettercairn," which seems to be unfavourable to the belief, enter- tained by some^ that it was situated in the parish of Fordoun ; though the names of certain places in that parish give an air of probability to that belief. Others think that it must have been about a mile and a-half south-west from the village of Fettercairn, where the remains of a large fortified place, called Greencairn, are still visible. This is a mass of ruins on the top of a round emi- nence of about forty or fifty feet above the level of the adjoining grounds. What its origin was, or when it ceased to be inhabited, is unknown. But that it must have been a place of great strength, and must have been many ages uninhabitable, is evident, from the portions of vitrified materials, of which it was composed, still re- maining, and from the entire state of desolation to which it is now 1 16 KINCARDINESHIRE. reduced, notwithstanding the durable nature of that mode of building. The next most ancient place is Balbegno Castle, on the same estate, and still habitable. The date of 1509 is visible on the pa- rapet wall. The expense of building it is said to have been so great, that the pro|)rietor, whose liame was Wood, was obliged to sell the lands of Balnakettle and Littlestrath, then belonging to him, to enable him to complete it. Various pieces of sculpture are exhibited in the higher parts of the wall. Within, there is a lofly hall, the roof of which is composed of freestone, arched and groined, and divided into sixteen triangular spaces. In these are [tainted the names and coats of arms of sixteen Scotch peers. The lands of Balbegno were given by William the Lion, who died in 1214, to one " Ranulphus 61ius Walteri de Lenorp." The deed of gift included " Lachra," that is, Luthur or Halkerton, with ^* Balbegno in vie. de Kinkardin ;" and Ranulphus is designated in it, " Falconario nostro." This was the origin of the name and estates of (he family of Halkerton in this county, now represented by the Earl of Kintore. By what means Balbegno was separated froYn the rest of the Halkerton property is unknown. In 1680, it was possessed by Andrew Wood. His son, also named Andrew, sold it in 1687 to Andrew Middleton of Pitgarvie. In 1722, we find it in possession of John Ogilvy, son of George Ogilvy of Lu* nan, an advocate in Edinburgh. A sister of his had married and survived Robert Middleton, the former proprietor; and by this connection it may have come into his hands. He left four daugh^ ters, the oldest of whom married and survived a Dr Brisbane, and possessed the estate till 1778, when it was sold to the father of the present proprietor, for a sum not equal to a fifth part of its present value. Another ancient building is Fettercairn House, a few hundred yards north by east of the village. A tasteful addition to it was built a few years ago by the present proprietor. The original part bears the date of 1666, and the initials of the name of John Earl of Middleton. His initials, coronet, and coat-of-arms, also, appear on the capital of an octagonal pillar in the village. This pillar, which is understood to have been the cross of the old town of Kincardine, the rem.iins of which are still traced on the Fet- tercairn estate, bears^the date of 1670, and rises about seven feet above a mass of building, composed of six concentric circles, .or circular steps. An iron rivet is still seen on one side, to which FETTERCAIRN. 117 the jugs^ the old instrument of punishment in Scotland, appear, from the marks on the stone, to have been suspended. The Fettercairn estates, which also seem to have formerly borne the name of Middleton, were possessed by one called Middleton, in the twenty-fourth year of the reign of Alexander III. In 1539, John Middleton sold the lands of Middleton to David Falconer of Halkerton ; after which he and his successors went by the desig- nation of Middletons of Pitgarvie and Cadham. From these de- scended the distinguished Earl John above-mentioned, who reco- vered the Middleton property ; but whether by purchase or other- wise, does not appear. Ear! of Middieton.'-^This nobleman was the son of John Mid- dleton of Cadham, and his wife, Helen Strachan, one of the Thorn- ton family. He devoted himself to literary pursuits till the civil wars broke out, when he took up arms on the side of the English Parliament In 1644, Sir William Waller, by virtue of powers from the Earl of Essex, gave him the command of a troop of Harque- busiers, and afterwards raised him to the rank of a lieutenant-ge- neral, in which capacity he acted till the Parliament cashiered Es- sex, when he resigned his command, and entered into the service of the Estates of Scotland* In 1647, he was made Lieu tenant- General of the Horse, in the army raised to liberate Charles I., then a prisoner in the Isle of Wight In the battle of Pres- ton he was taken prisoner, and afterwards conBned in Newcastle, till his roval master was beheaded. He then found means to escape and reached Scotland at the time when Charles IL arriv- ed in that kingdom. He again obtained the command of the Horse, in the army which Charles led, in person, into England, and fought bravely in the battle of Worcester, in 1651, where he was wounded, and again made prisoner. He was sent, by Crom- well's orders, to the Tower of London, there to be executed ; but again he escaped, and joined his sovereign in Paris. In 165-3, he arrived in Scotland with a royal commission, and superseded the Earl of Glencairn as Commander-in-Chief of the Forces. Being unable to receive foreign supplies, he struggled with difficulties for about a year, when he was defeated by General Monk, and obliged to seek his safety in concealment. In 1655, he escaped to the Continent, and again joined his master et Cologne, with whom he continued during the remainder of his exile. After the Restoration, Charles raised him to the peerage, by the titles of Earl of Middleton and Viscount Fettercairn, in Scotland, and Lord Clermont, in England. He was also made Commander-in- 1 18 KINCARDINESHIRE. Chief of the Forces in Scotland, Grovernor of Edinburgh Castle, and one of the Lords of the Privy- Council. In 1661. he was appointed Lord High Commissioner to the Scotch Parliament ; but, having abused his power, and rendered some powerful noble- men his enemies, he lost the royal favour, and was deprived of the various places of trust and honour which he held. On the suggestion, it is believed, of the Earl of Lauderdale, who feared lest the King's affections might return to him, and who, therefore, wished him removed to a distance, he was afterwards appointed governor of the new English Fort of Tangier, on the coast of Africa, where he remained till the time of his death, which was occasioned by a fall from a stair in 1673. Earl John Middleton was succeeded in his estates and titles by his son Charles, who acted as one of the principal secretaries of State for England, from 1684 to 1688, when he followed the for- tunes of his exiled master, and remained in France till hejivas at- tainted, by act of Parliament, in 1695. He and his two sons having embarked in the expedition fitted out in France, in 1708, for the restoration of the Stuarts, were taken prisoners at sea by Admiral Bing, but soon afiterwards were liberated by the Queen's orders, and no more appeared in public life. The lands continued in the possession of the Middletons till 1777, when they were purchased from the heirs of Lady Diana Middleton, by Sir John Stuart, Bart., the maternal grandfather of the present proprietor, and, at the time of his death, one of the Barons of Exchequer of Scotland. Like the lands of Balbegno, they are now worth more than five times the original sum that was paid for them. The only other antiquity, to be noticed, is the Gannachy Bridge. It is built across the North Esk, on two steep rocks, ajid forms the communication between Fettercairn and Edzell. The arch is about 30 feet high, and 52 wide ; and yet the quan- tity of water in the river, in August 1829, almost completely filled it The original bridge was built by James Black, tenant in Wood, parish of Edzell, in 1732, at an expense of 300 merks Scotch. Being too narrow from parapet to parapet, it was widened by adding another arch to the side of it, so as to make it about 20 feet wide. This was done in 1796 by Lord Adam Gor- don, and the Honourable William Maule, now Lord Panmure, at their own expense, said to have amounted to L. 300. Mansion^Houses, — About three-quarters of a mile north by west from the Gannachy Bridge, on a rising ground, a few hundred yards FhTTERCAIRN. 119 from the river, stands The Burn House, a neat commodious man* sion, built by Lord Adam Gordon in 1791, and much improved by alterations and additions, effected by Messrs Brodie and Shand, its successive proprietors. The scenery is here very much admired, particularly along the banks of the river. The walks cut through the rocks, and the woods planted by his Lordship's directions, have converted the native ruggedness of these banks into scenes of sublimity and beauty. Fasque, the only other mansion-house in the parish, is situated about a mile and a quarter north by west of the village. It was built by the late Sir Alexander Ramsay of Balmain, Bart, in 1809. It is a large house of a castellated form, and contains every accommodation for a numerous family. Having been built on elevated ground, it commands an extensive, diversified, and pleasing view of the surrounding country. A lake of about twenty acres of extent, and a fine approach to the house, completed a few years ago by the present proprietor, give additional efiect to the scenery of this place. III. — Population. By returns given to Dr Webster in 1755, the population of this parish seems to have been 1950. Mr Garden, in 1774, when he published his map of the county, made it 1500. Mr Foote, in the Statistical Account drawn up by him in 1791, stated it at about 2000. In 1801, by the first Government census under Mr Ab- bot's bill, it was 1794, — in 1811, by the second census, 1562, — in 1821, 1573i— in 1831, 1637; at present, it is thought to be considerably more. By the last census, the males were 775, and the females 862. There were in the village 234 inhabitants, and in the rest of the parish 1403, of whom were under fifteen years of age, 573; between fifteen and thirty, 405 ; between thirty and fifty, 383 ; between fifty and seventy, 203; upwards of seventy, 73: in all, consti- tuting 388 families, and living in 367 houses, being an average of 4^ persons to each family. There are 2 persons totally blind, 2 partially blind, and one fatuous. The average per annum of births for the last nine or ten years has been about 43; deaths, 18; marriages, 16. The incomes of the different proprietors, arising from the property they hold in the parish, vary from L. 200 to upwards of L. 2000 per annum. Only two reside occasionally in the parish. The people may, on the whole, be said to be a sober, industriouS| intelligent, and religious people. 120 RlNCARDINESHinE. IV. — Industry. Number of imperial acres in the parish, which are either eultirated OT occusioiially in tillage, . ^ . 7490 Number of acres which might with some degree of adrantage be cul- tivated, whether they were afterwards allowed to run waste or not, 172 Number of acres of moss, which might be added to the last descriptioo of ground, - - * - 177 Number of acres which have been planted with wood, - 1780 Number of acres which remain constantly waste or in pasture, - 8573 Bent. — Some of the arable land is let as low per annum as 10s. per acre, and some as high as L. 4, 10s. Scotch measure ; but the average may be about L. 1, Is. In several instances, part of the rent is paid by the fiars prices of the county. The whole gross rental of the parish, including about L. S(:5, arising from hill pas* ture, and sales of wood, amounts to about L. 8230. A consider- able extent of enclosed grounds or grass parks, is annually let by public sale, for the summer half year, the rate of which is from under L. 1, to nearly L. 4, per acre. It is estimated that a sheep might be kept for ds., and an ox of ordinary size for from L. 2, to L. 2, 10s. for the summer half year, and about the same sum for the rest of the year, on turnips and straw. Wages, — The price of labour seems to be as follows : farm-ser- vants hired for the half-year get, with food from their employers, as follows, viz. men, from L. 6 to L. 8, 3s. ; women, from L. 3, 10s. to L. 4, 10s. in summer, and from L. 2 to L. 3, in winter ; day labourers without food furnished them, as follows, viz. men. Is. 6d., to 2s. in summer, and Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. in winter; wo- men, 9d. in summer, and 7d. in winter; masons, ds.; wrights, 2s. 6d. ; and slaters, 3s. for ten hours work, without food from their employers; tailors. Is. 3d. with food; shoemakers per week, 9s. to 12s. without food; blacksmiths with food, L. 9 to L. 11 per half- year. Prices. — The prices of raw materials stand nearly thus : hides, 4s. per stone Dutch; wool of black-faced sheep, Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per lb. of 24 ounces, Cheviot Is 6d. to 2s. ; flax 12s. to I4s. per stone of 24 lbs.; wood per solid foot, birch Is., Scotch fir Is. to Is. 8d., elm 3s., oak 3s., ash 2.s. to 2s. 6d., plane Is., beech 2s.; lime per boll 2s. lid. to 3s. 2d.; single-horse cart-load of stones at the quarry, for ordinary purposes 6d., for finer work Is., and carriage per mile 7d. The prices of grain and provisions are these : wheat, L. 2, 16s. to L. 2, 18s.; barely, L. 1, 4s. to L. 1, 10s. ; oats, L. 1, 2s. to L. 1, 7s. per imperial quarter ; oatmeal about L. 1 per boll of 140 lbs.; quartern loaf 8d. ; potatoes "12s. to 16s. per boll of 32 stones FETTERCAlUN. 121 Dutch ; beef d^d. to 6d. per imperial lb. ; mutton do. ; veal do. ; butter 9d. ; pork 5s. 9d. per imperial stone ; cheese 7s, to ds. per do; milk l^d. per chopin; eggs 5d. per dozen; fowls Is. 2d., to Is. 4d. each; chickens Is. to Is. dd. per pair; turkey 4s. to 6s. Live-Stock. — The common breed of sheep is the black-faced kind, with a few Cheviots. The black cattle are chiefly of the Angus-shire breed, but there are also a few of the Aberdeenshire and Ayrshire kinds. The species of pig most in use is the Chi- nese. Bees are cultivated, but not to much extent or advantage. Hmbandry. — The mode of husbandry is generally that of five years rotation, being successively oats, green crop, barley or oats again, hay, and pasture the last year. Wheat is not much cultivat- ed. In the green crop stage of the rotation, mangel wurzel, or beet-root, has been tried and has grown well, and been considered a very valuable kind of food for milch cows ; but the cultivation of it has been discontinued on account of the trouble and expense attending it In the scarcity of manure which sometimes occurs, bone dust is used as a substitute. It produces good crops of tur- nips ; but sheep are generally laid on the field to eat them off*, for the sake of the following crops. The Georgian, Hopetoun, Kildrunimie, Early Angus, and po- tato oats, have all been tried ; but the potato and early Angus varieties are those at present in use. Barley is most frequently sown in the lower, and bear in the higher, parts of the parish ; and the returns vary from 4 to 8 qrs. per acr6. Frequent changes of seed are used to prevent deterioration, which would otherwise take place. Tares are sown, as a substitute for clover-grass, to be used in the end of the season. Flax has been esteemed a se. vere crop for the land, and has been less cultivated for several years back than when it was encouraged by the Government bounty. Leases^ 8fc, — The common period of leases is nineteen years. The farm buildings and enclosures are, in general, commodious and iq good repair. In most cases, the tenants bear a part of the ex- pense of them. The disposition of the present proprietors is al- lowed to be liberal towards all that sit under them. Improvements. — At an early period in the agricultural history of this county^ we find the Rainsays of Balmain mentioned as very ac- tive and extensive improvers of land. By the zealous and judicious exertions of the successive members of that family who came into the possession of the property, it was brought to such a state of im- provement, that comparatively little remained to be done after the 1 22 KINCARDINESHIRE. end of last century. On the estate of Fettercaim much, too, was done by Sir John Stuart, by draining, planting, and other improve- ments. But the most extensive improvements in the parish, since the former Statistical Account was published, have been effected on the estates of The Burn, Wood ton, and Amhall. The follow- ing very hurried and superficial sketch of them is all that our li- mits will admit of. In 1774, Lord Adam Gordon purchased Woodton, a part of the estate of Balfour, from Captain Forbes ; and in 1780, the lands, properly called The Bum, lying between it and the river, from Sir David Carnegie. For these two proper- ties he paid L. 5250 ; and the annual rent which they then yield- ed was only L. 113, lis. l^d. Sterling. They were both in the wildest state of barrenness. In 1782, his Lordship began to im- prove them ; and for twenty years he went steadily on with his ope- rations, till he had planted 526 acres of ground, converted much moor into arable land, and so completely changed the appearance and increased the value of them, that it was a subject of wonder how so much could have been effected in so short a time. On his Lordship's death, they were purchased for L. 20,000 Sterling, including L. 1 000 in name of household furniture, by the late Mr Brodie of Arnhall, father of the present Duchess of Gordon. Mr Brodie had bought the estate of Arnhall, in 1796, from Sir David Carnegie, for L. 22,500 Sterling. He completed such of his Lordship's plans as had been left unfinished, and extended and carried on his improvements over all the estates till he had reclaim- ed, from moss and moor ground, upwards of 400 acres of surface, at an expense, on most of it, of L. 12, 10s. per acre, built 500 roods of stone dikes ; made five miles of«roads ; and planted 220 acres of waste ground. The extent of his improvements, and the im- portance of them, may be inferred from the fact that, when offer- ed for sale, the three estates were purchased in 1814 for K 70,000 Sterling, by the late Mr John Shand. On this gentleman the mantle of his predecessors seemed to have fallen. They had done much, and yet much remained to be done. In 1818, therefore, he began his operations on an extensive district of deep moss, on the Arnhall estate. He cut a large drain 2i miles long, 9 feet deep, 18 feet wide at top, and 4i at bottom, and a multitude of smaller ones running into it at right angles. When the moss was thus brought to a state of dryness fit for work- ing, upwards of 600 cart load^ of gravel per acre, were mixed up with it, in some places to consolidate it, and make a proper soil for FETTERCAIRN. 123 bearing crops. By these, and other operations, more than 200 acres of waste ground were converted into productive land, and let to industrious tenants at a moderate rent. Belts of wood were also planted, and miles of excellent roads were made. Many improvements, on a smaller scale, have also been effect- ed by intelligent and industrious tenants, on the farms occupied by them on the different estates throughout the parish, which want of space makes it here impossible to detail. Most of them have erected thrashing-^mills at their own expense. The number of thrashing-mills in the parish is 27. Produce. — The gross amount of the value of raw produce raised annually in the parish may be estimated at from L. 15,000 to L. 16,000, though it is impossible to ascertain it exactly. About two-fifths of this sum may arise from grain and flax, and the re- maining three-fifths from cattle and other kinds of live-stock, and the produce of the dairy. Manufactures.-^There is a small establishment at Arnhall, for carding and manufacturing wool into coarse cloth, in which a few women, but no children, are employed. Their hours are moderate. There is another establishment at Nethermill, near the village, for distilling whisky from malt alone, in which men only are employed. The nature of their operations necessarily renders their hours irre- gular. No decidedly bad effects seem to be produced by either of these establishments on the health or morals of those immediately engaged in them. Both yield, apparently, a fair remuneration to the persons who have capital embarked in them. Fettercaim Club. — The only association in the parish, for the en- couragement of any branch of industry, is the Fettercairn Club. It was established in 1826, principally by the influence of Captain Ramsay, one of the Balmain family, then residing at Balbegno Castle. Its primary object was the improvement of the district of country around Fettercairn, in whatever related to the interests of agriculture. At present it is composed of about 86 members, from among the proprietors and principal tenants in the neighbourhood, and gentlemen at a greater distance, who feel interested in its suc- cess. Each member contributes annually L. 1 to the funds of the institution, by means of which a library is kept up for the use of the club, prizes are provided for certain purposes specified in the regulations, and the expenses connected with its management de- frayed. The Highland or Agricultural Society of Scotland has patronized it, for some years back, by submitting part of their funds to its disposal every alternate year. 1 24 KINCARDINESHIUE. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication^ Sfc. — There is no weekly market- town iu the parish. The nearest place of that description, with which a regular intercourse is kept up, is Montrose, twelve miles distant. The only village is Fettercairn, which is a burgh of ba- rony on the estate of Fettercairn. There are two fairs held in it annually, the one at Whitsunday and the other at Martinmas. It has a post-oiSce, at which a foot-post daily arrives with mails from Montrose, about half-past eight o'clock a. m., and from which he departs at two o'clock p. m. A carrier travels to Montrose every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and to Aberdeen every second Tuesday. A stage-coach runs between Aberdeen and Dundee through the parish each day except Sunday, starting from Dundee at seven, and from Aberdeen at half-past ten o'clock every morn- ing, and passing through Forfar, Brechin, Slateford, Fettercairn, Auchinblae, Drumlithie, and Stonehaven. There is no turnpike- road in the parish ; but commutation roads traverse it in various directions, which, together with bridges and fences, are well at- tended to, and generally kept in good condition. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church is not conveniently si- tuated for many of the parishioners, being placed near the north- east extremity of the parish, and five miles distant from some of the inhabitants towards the south-west. It was built in 1804 to contain 800 sitters, but it can accommodate considerably more, and is in good repair. The sittings are all attached to the land except those provided for the minister and elders, and are therefore free only to the tenant. The following benefactions were left, at different times, to the poor, by benevolent persons in their latter wills, viz. L. 500, by Dr Ramsay of Barbadoes ; L. 50, by Provost Christie of* Montrose ; 200 merks Scotch, by James Black, the builder of the original Gannachy Bridge, formerly mentioned; L. 20, by George Cooper, late merchant in Slateford ; L. 50, by R. Valentine, late tenant in Bogindollo; and L. 19, 19s. lid., by Anthony Glen, late mauu- facturer in Luthermuir ; several hundred pounds, in houses and other property, were left by James Smith, late manufacturer in Fettercairn, to be under the management of certain trustees, for behoof of indigent persons not upon the regular poofs roll. The manse was built in 1774, and repaired and enlarged in 1822. The glebe is about six Scotch acres of extent, is good al- luvial soil, and worth about L. 3 per acre per annum. The sti- FETTERCAIRN. 125 pend is 16 chalders, half barley, half meal, with L. 8^ 6s. 8il. for communion elements. There is no chapel of ease nor any dis- senting place of public worship in the parish. But there are 52 individuals who are not of the communion of the Established Church, viz. Independents, 14; Episcopalians, 13; Bereans, 14; of the United Associate Synod, 6 ; Anabaptists, 2 ; of the Relief Synod, 2 ; and 1 Roman Catholic This list does not include the members of the two proprietors' families formerly mentioned as re- siding in the parish only occasionally, they being at present non-re- sident therein. The number of families which attend the Establish- ed Church cannot be exactly known, as some families are divided between it and the above denominations of worshippers ; but it may be stated at about •'^77, and the individuals of all ages who generally attend public worship, may be about 1300, making thus an allowance of about 330 for children, infirm, and aged persons, and those now mentioned as not in communion with it. Di- vine service is well attended by all ranks. The average number of communicants is about 850, including those who attend from the adjoining parishes of Fordoun and Marykirk, for the sake of convenience. The average amount of collections annually in the church, for religious and charitable purposes, may be about L. 85, including collections for infirmaries and th6 parish library. The collections which were formerly made in behalf of the Bible So- ciety, the Highland Schools, and the India Mission, are not includ- ed in this sum. For promoting the interests of these institutions, a parochial association, on Dr DufTs plan, was last year formed, and raised L. 16, to be divided between them and the Church Ex- tension scheme. Its operations are not this year yet completed, but are expected to be as successful as last year's were. Education,^ — There are five schools in the parish, which supply daily instruction toabout 1 90 children, viz. the parochial school, w hich is supported by the maximum legal salary, a mortification in land yielding L. 2, 15s. per annum, and the school fees of about 68 scho- lars, which may amount to L. 30 per annum. His other emolu- ments, including session-clerk's fees, amount to about L. 15 per annum. The languages and all other branches of parochial edu- cation are taught in the parish school. — A private school at Dal- ladies, supported by the school fees of about 36 scholars, paying from 3s. 6d, to 6s. per quarter, school-room and schoolmaster's house rent free. All branches taught in the parochial school are taught in it. A private school at Inch of Arnhall, supported by the fees of about 30 scholars, paying from Ss. to 4s. per quarter, school- 126 KINCARDINESHIRE. room rent free, — reading, writiug, arithmetic, and English gram- mar taught. — A private school at Oldmains of Fasque, supported by the fees of about 80 scholars, paying from 2s. 6d. to 4s. per quarter, school-room rent free, — the same branches as in~ the last taught — A female school in the village, in which reading and needle-work are taught, supported by a small salary paid by two of the heritors, viz. Sir John Stuart Forbes, Bart and Mr Glad- stone during their pleasure, and by the fees of about 26 scholars, paying from ds. to 5s. per quarter. Besides these, about 40 chil- dren are instructed daily in smaller places of elementary tuition throughout the parish. A Sunday school is taught in the church throughout the year, and is attended by upwards of 80 children, who have received prizes from one of the heritors,* for several years, for proficiency, regular attendance, and good conduct Another Sun- day's school is taught on the Arnhall estate, at which from 20 to 30 scholars attend. By one or other of these means, instruction is pro- vided for all the rising generation, within a convenient distance from their respective places of abode. There are few, if any, between six and fifteen years of age who cannot either read or write ; and there are, it is thought, as few above that age who cannot do both. The people, in general, seem alive to the benefits of education, and make great efforts to keep their children as long as possible at school. There can be no doubt that, to some extent or other, their morals and conduct have improved with the increased facili- ties afforded them for education. Libraries. — There are two libraries in the village. One of them belongs to the Fettercairn Club*; and the circulation of its books is confined to the members of the Club and their families. It contains above 500 volumes on miscellaneous subjects. The other is a parisli library, under the management of the minister and elders. It is supported by donations of books and cash, and by occasional collections in the church. It contains nearly 400 volumes on various subjects, but chiefly on religion. The books are given out gratis for perusal ; and there generally are from 80 to 120 readers. Savings' Bank. — A savings' bank was established in 1831. It has succeeded well. Amount yearly invested, L. 126 ; with- drawn, L. 79. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of regular paupers is about 40 ; their average rate per month, 4s. ; occa- sional paupers about 15 ; their average rate per annum, about L. 1. * Sir John Stuart Forbes, Bart. FETTERCAIRN. 127 The average annual collections for their support amouril to about L. 70. From mortcloth dues, occasional donations, interest of so much of the above enumerated benefactions as still remain available, and other incidental means, arise about L. 50 more — making, in all, for behoof of the poor, (with clerks* and officers* fees, and casual expenses), L. 120 per annum. Many are very reluctant, and others very anxious, to be put upon the poor's roll. The majority, however, struggle long with poverty, before they can bring themselves to submit to accept of public charity. Inns. — There are 3 inns in the parish, 2 of which are in the village. Fuel. — In the higher situations, the fuel is principally peat and turf, the expense and trouble of procuring which are considerable. In the lower situations, it is partly peat, and partly wood, but chiefly English coals, brought from Montrose. These, at the ship, cost from Is. Id. to Is. dd. per barrel of 11 stones 9 pounds imperial ; and the expense of carriage to the village, when charged, is from 6d. to 7d. more. Miscellaneous Observations. From the foregoing statement, it must be evident that the im- provements in this parish, either begun or completed, since the last Statistical Account was published, have been of great extent. Much waste ground has been reclaimed, and converted into pro- ductive arable land. Extensive plantations of wood have been formed, which are now, generally, in a thriving state, and adding to the shelter of the fields, the beauty of the landscape, the re- sources of the proprietors, and the benefit of the neighbourhood. Better accommodations in the dwelling houses, farm-steadings, and enclosures, have been provided. By means of extensive and judicious draining, the salubrity of the atmosphere has been im- proved, the state of disease has been altered, and the health of the people promoted. By the introduction of thrashing-mills, and other useful inventions, agricultural labour has been greatly di- minished. By the formation of so many commutation roads, in- ternal communication and access to markets have been very much facilitated. Enlarged means of intellectual, moral, and re- ligious improvement have been called into operation ; and, it is to be hoped, the habits, manners, and enjoyments of the people have, in some measure, kept pace with the increase of these ad- vantages. 128 KINCARDINESHIRE. It has been suggested that these advantages might yet farther be increased by some amelioration of the cottage system. As the Highland or Agricultural Society of Scotland have taken up the consideration of this subject, it may be expected that the result of their patriotic measures will be, an addition to the comfort of a most useful and deserving class of the community. It has also been suggested, with a view to identify and promote more eflectually the interests and sympathies of landlord and te- nant, that, in the letting of land, it might be an improvement, to make the amount of rent depend on the fiars prices of the county, either in whole or in part. This would certainly be as equitable a plan as the fluctuations in the value of farm produce could ad* mit of, with this condition, that it might be expedient, in dear years, to have a maximum, to protect the tenant, and in cheap years, a minimum, to give a corresponding protection to the land-* lord. April 1837. PARISH OF LAURENCEKIRK. PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEAIINS. THE REV. JOHN COOK, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of this parish was Conveth; but in the course of the last century, it came to be known only by the name of Laurencekirk, originally applicable only to the Kirk-town,* and derived from the dedication of the church to St Laurence. When the old church, built in 1626, was taken down in 1804, there wer^ found in different parts of the wall, stones apparently of even an older date than the building, on which the figure of a man lying on a gridiron was carved, representing, it was supposed, the martyrdom of St Laurence. Some of the stones were inserted in the walls of the new church.f • The Kirk-town, which stands on the estate of Haulkerton, is thus described in the old Haulkerton title-deeds : ** llie lands called Diracrofl, alias Belaker, with houses, biggings, yards, tofts, crofb, and whole pertinents thereof called the. Kirk- town of Conveth, alias St Laurence, lying within the regality of St Andrews, lord- ship of Rescobie, and sheriffdom of Kincardine.** fit has been supposed that the site of the proper church or chapel of Conveth was at one time in a different part of the parish, nearly two miles farther east. Not many LAURENCEKIRK. 129 Extent and Boundaries, — The parish extends in length from west by south to east by north about 4 miles, varying in breadth from about 3 miles at the western extremity, to less than a mile at the other, and contains about 8^ square miles. It is situated in the How of the Mearns, the eastern part of the great valley of Strathmore, and b bounded on the south-west by Marykirk ; on the south-east by Garvoek ; and on the north-east and north-west by Fordoun. The boundary with Garvoek is somewhat indbtinct, fol- lowing the line of an old earthen fence, known by the name of the Rae or Deer Dike, of which many traces are still visible, and which probably enclosed the forest of Garvoek. Topoffraphical Appearances^ 8fc. — The figure of the parish is ir- regular, somewhat resembling, however, that of a triangle. The greater portion lies on the lower part of the north side of the hill of Garvoek, sloping down to the Luther, and rising again with a very gradual declivity, on the other side of that stream. In the north-east corner of the parish, the ground again declines slightly towards the east, so that the water of what was for- merly a large morass is divided, and flows, partly westward to the Luther, and partly eastward to Bervie Water. The Luther thus divides the parish into two sections, of which the one on the southern side is intersected longitudinally by the great north road from Edinburgh to Aberdeen, on each side of which thoroughfare, in the south-west part of this section, stands the village of Lau- rencekirk. The whole parish is rather flat. The Luther is about 180 feet above the level of the sea ; the highest ground in the northern section about 220; and in the southern, adjoining Garvoek, about 450. The temperature of the district on the whole is mild. From ob- servations, more or less regular, made during a number of years, the average height of the mercury in a thermometer in the shade throughout the year, appears to be about 46^ at 8 a. m., and about 45^ at 10 p. m. The easterly haars seldom come across the hill of Garvoek ; and the cold air of the Grampians is con- siderably mitigated by the distance of several miles. The pre- vailing winds are south and south-east. In spring, these winds are often accompanied by long tracts of dry weather. In summer, there are frequent south-west winds, which are rather rainy. In years ago, there were dug out in a field there what seemed to be the foundation walls of such a building. A circular tumulus of rock immediately acljoining is to this day called the " Chapel Knap ;" and the ** Mill of Conveth," the only place which re* tains the ancient name of Conyeth, is scarcely half a mile distant. KINCARDINE. I 130 KINCARDINESHIRE. harvest, westerly winds prevail ; but in the month of August, this district is occasionally visited by severe northerly storms, which break down and injure the crop. * The climate is faYourable to health. There are no prevalent distempers in the district. Hydrography. — There is a mineral spring at Johnston, the waters of which are chalybeate and of considerable strength. The small stream of Luther, which runs through the parish in a direction from north-east to south-west, takes its rise in the lower ridge of the Grampian hills in the parish of Fordoun ; and about three miles below the mill of Blackiemuir, which is in the north-west corner of this parish, it falls into the North Esk* In its course, the Luther has formed several considerable fields of alluvial de- posit, of which great part were brought into cultivation a good many years ago, and have been found extremely productive. About eighty or ninety acres remain uncultivated, in consequence of circumstances afterwards referred to. Soil. — *' The whole of the district to the south of the Luther may be described as a deep clay loam, incumbent on clay and freestone, generally rich and productive. That part below the village of Laurencekirk, is rather a cold clay on a retentive sub- soil. The haugh ground on each side of the Luther consists of alluvial deposits of clay and sand, which being incorporated with • In regard to this peculiarity, I have been favoured with some observations, which I shall here transcribe, from George Robertson, Esq. Haugh-head, a gentleman to whom I have been greatly indebted in making inquiries with a view to this reportt and whose acquaintance with all subjects connected especially with agricultural mat- ters, renders his information highly valuable. " These northerly storms,'* Mr Ro- bertson says, " do not extend more than fifteen or twenty miles to the southward into Forfarshire, at least they are not felt with the same degree of severity. The inten- sity of these gales may perhaps l>e accounted for by the situation and lye of the Gram- pians, and more particularly by tliat of the Moray Frith, and the mountains and head- lands along its shores. Tlie storms which blow from the north and west, descend with great force from the mountains and glens of Hcss-shire, sweep along the Moray Frith, to which they are confined by the high land on the' south, until they reach Trouphead ; after which, finding no obstacle, they take a more southerly directioB over that comparatively level country east of Trouphead, Bennachie, and the htU of Fare. Their velocity and strength are rather increased by the interruption ofiered by the low and narrow ridge of Grampians lying between the Dee and the How of the Mearns. Farther to the south and west, the Grampians increase both in width and elevation, there being in fact a screen of three ridges, which completely protects the western part of Forfarshire, viz. the southerly range between the How of Anffus or Strathmore and the Dee, — the elevated ridge between Dee and Don,..^and the ttiU wider range of hills between Don and the lower districts of BanfT and Morayshire: These successive ranges of hills, being not less than forty miles in breadth, prove a great protection to the country lying immediately south of them, and naturally turn the wind in a south-easterly direction, until it reaches the level districts of Aberdeen- shire, over which it sweeps, increasing in velocity as it approaches Kincardineshire. Whether the cause here assigned for the violence of the northerly gales in this parti- cular district be correct or not, their effects are severely felt, and much complained of, by the tenantry.*' I may here mention, that, in preparing this Account, I hare also received obliging information from John Peter> Esq. Factor for the £arl of K'mXore, LAURENCEKIRK. 131 the original soil, clay, is well adapted for agricultural purposes. The section of the parish north of the Luther is inferior, in every respect, to that already described ; the soil is generally cold and moorish, and is incumbent on a retentive bottom, or on clay mixed with coarse gravel, strongly impregnated with iron. The land has been partially drained ; but much still remains to be done in this respect. From the retentive nature of the subsoil, the operation is rendered expensive, and the success is by no means certain." ^ Plantations* — The plantations iu the parish consist chiefly of larch, spruce, and Scots firs, generally on inferior moorish ground. The soil appears rather favourable to the growth of hard wood. On the grounds where the old mansion-house of Haulkerton was si- tuated, there is a good deal of old wood of various kinds, and there are several oak trees at Johnston ; hedge-rows of ash, elm, and beech appear to do well, where attention is paid to pruning and protection. IL — Civil History. There are no ancient records connected with the parish, or an- tique relics belonging to it. A good many years ago, there was found in a field, near Johnston Lodge, a small Roman coin, with a different head and inscription on either side, but the only words legible are Aurelius on the one side, and Antoninus on the other. It is in the possession of Mrs Farquhar. About twenty years ago, a considerable number, nearly forty, of large silver coins were found on the farm of Northhill, about the foundation of the old dwelling- house. They were mostly, if not all, Spanish, and in excellent condition. A good many of them are still preserved in the neigh- bourhood, and have dates 1616, 1622, 1623. The only plans of the parish are those of the different estates belonging to the several proprietors, besides that included in Mr Garden's general map of the county. The first remarkable fact in the history of the parish may be considered to be the erection of the Burgh of Barony in 1 779. Eminent Men. — Among the eminent characters with which the parish may claim connection, may be mentioned Thomas Ruddi- man, the grammarian, who was settled parochial schoolmaster in 1695, at the age of twenty, and continued in that office till 1700, when he was taken to Edinburgh by the well-known Dr Pitcaim. The name of Francis Garden, commonly called Lord Garden- stone, as one of the Lords of Session, is intimately associated with the history of this parish. He was the second son of Garden of Troup, and was bom June 24th 1721. In 1765, he began to * Mr Robertson'^ Notes. 132 KINCARDINESHIHE. build a new village on the estate of Johnston, which he had re- cently purchased, and, in 1779, he got the village erected, by royal charter, into a burgh of barony, and, on occasion of present- ing the charter, he addressed " a Letter to the people of Laurence- kirk," afterwards published, in which he gave them salutary ad- monitions as to their conduct, strongly exhorting them to culti- vate habits of industry, frugality, and sobriety. It was chiefly at his expense, that, during his lifetime, an Episcopal chapel was built, for the minister of which he provided an endowment Other two public buildings were erected, of which the one is now used partly as a mason lodge, and partly as a town-hall, and the other formed a neat library adjacent to a very commodious inn. In va- rious other ways, he took an active interest in promoting the pros- perity of the burgh, the inhabitants of which reached the number of 500 before his death in 1793. The most eminent individual connected with the parish by birth, is Dr James Beattie, Professor of Moral Philosophy in Marischal College, Aberdeen, and author of " The Minstrel," and of ** the Essay on Truth." He was born in 1735, on the farm of Borrow- muirhills, which is closely adjoining to the village of Laurence- kirk, and of which his father was at that time tenant, and the descendants of a sister of Beattie are still in possession. His ne- phew, James Beattie, Professor of Natural History in Marischal College, was likewise a native of this parish. It is also worthy of note, as connected with the history of this parish, that, for the third part of a century, it was under the pastoral care of Dr George Cook, the eminent historian of the Church of Scotland, who was ordained minister of Laurencekirk in 1795, and remained till 1828, when he became Professor of Moral Philosophy in the University of St Andrews. Land'Ovmers. — The land-owners among whom the property of the parish is divided, are four. The Earl of Kintore, to whom, as Lord Falconer of Haulkerton,* extensive estates belong in this • Chalmers in his Caledonia, Vol. i. p. 541, says, " The Falconers of Haulkerton derive their origin from Walter, who obtained from David I. the lands of Lonkyir, ( Lumgair, parish of Dunottar,) in the Meams. His son, Ranulph, was appointed Falconer by William the Lion, who gave him Luthra, Balbegno, (parish of Fetter- cairn,) and other lands,** near the Castle of Kincardine, (parish of Fordoun,) where King William often resided. From this office he assumed the name of Falconer* Among the lands thus acquired by the family, those of Haulkerton (as the name it- self may seem to indicate) appear to have been part. By intermarriages and other- wise, the lands belonging to the family, were, in succeeding times, extended in this neighbourhood. It was in 1540 that they obtained the barony of Middlcton in this parish, of which they are also still in possession. In 1647» the representative of the fa- mily was created I>ord Haulkerton, and in 1 778, by female descent, Anthony Adrian, the eighth Lord Falconer, became fifth Eurl of Kinitore.— See Douglas's Peerage. LAIJRKNCEKIRK. 133 part of the country, has upwards of 4000 acres in this parish; Alexander Gibbon, Esq. of Johnston, has under 700 acres ; Red- myre, extending' to about 2f30 acres, belongs to Mr Allardyce in Aberdeen ; and the small property of Mill of C!onveth, consisting of about 25 acres, belongs to Dr Alexander Crombie, chief pro- prietor in the adjoining parish of Fordoun, the distinguished au- thor of the " Gymnasium," and of other well-known works, on " Philosophical Necessity," " Natural Theology," &c. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers have been, on the whole, regularly kept, and contain tolerably minute records of the proceedings of the kirk-session, of the management of the poor funds, and of baptisms and marriages. The earliest entry is April 3, 1702. Modern Buildings. — There are no remarkable edifices in the parish. The church — to which the Episcopalian Chapel on a smaller scale is not dissimilar — has too much the character of most Scotch churches, more remarkable for plainness than for elegance or ornament. Johnston Lodge, the seat of the pro- prietor of Johnston, is a neat modern structure, and stands on a site commanding an extensive and happily chosen view of the Valley of Strathmore, and the Grampian Hills. \i was built partly of stones quarried on the estate ;* but the materiab usually employed in the parish are driven from Lauriston quarry, in the parish of St Cyrus, distant about six miles, — of which the stone is of a brownish colour, and sufficiently durable. III. — Population. According to Dr Webster's calculation, — the earliest on record, — the population of the parish amounted, in 1755, to 757 souls. If the accuracy of the registers ofbirths and marriages could be depend- ed on, an estimate might be formed of the population in earlier times. The registers are very imperfect from 1707 to 1716, partly in con- sequence of a vacancy in the ministry of the parish for three years previous to 1711, from the parties concerned repeatedly disagree- ing as to the person who should receive a ca//, and partly in con- sequence of the seizure of documents from the schoolmaster, dur- ing the Rebellion in 171 5.f The following is an abstract of the entries from 1716 to 1732, * Quarries were at one time opened on two difierent parts of the estate, but they have been found of little value, and have been discontinued. t The following entries relative to the Rebellion are somewhat curious : ^^ The register of Baptisms and marriages since my entric to this place was taken away, and torn by the Highlanders in time of the Utc UebcUion, which was in th^ No. o/births. in theparish^ 1716, 10 1 1717. 18 1718, 7 2 1719, 8 2 1720, 9 2 1721, 31 5 1722, 23 4 1728, 27 e? 1724, 26 4 1725, 19 1 1726, 24 4 1727, 25 4 1728, 26 1 1729, 16 4 1730, 22 3 1731, 22 6 1732, 22 1 134 KINCARDINESHIRE. No. o/MarriaffM, Both parties Only one parity in the parish, 5 4 2 3 8 5 7 4 9 8 9 12 10 10 5 4 6 From the state of the country after the Rebellion, the fi rst se- ven of these years may be omitted. Number of illegitimate births in the course of the last three years, 14 or 15. During the last ten of these years, the average number of mar- riages, in which both parties were in the parish, is about S^j and of the others about 7i, of which the half, or 3|, being added to 3^, gives 7^, the number of marriages corresponding to the population of the parish. If we take 1 to 110, as the propor- tion of marriages to the population at that period, and multi- ply 7^ by 110, we have 795 as the population of the parish. It is not unlikely, and there is appearance on the register which renders it probable, that the births were not registered so re- gularly as the marriages : — we may safely, however, take 25 as not less than the average number of actual births between 1723 and 1732; and if we suppose 1 to 30 to have been the proportion of births to the population, and multiply 25 by 30, we have 750 as the population of the parish. These calculations, though founded on somewhat uncertain data, seem sufficiently to nioneth of September jai vij and fiflecn years. This is attested at Conveth Kirk, Febr. Ist 1716» by (Signed) ** R. Mortimer, Sess. Clk.'* Again in the minutes of session, ^* Sept. 25 (1715 ) — No sermon here this day, in regaird of the confusion and disturbances in the couiitrie." There appears to have been no sermon till February 1 9th 1716. The session had in the meantime taken ** care of the session box, with the money and papers therein, and laid it up in a se- cure place," (minute of October 10 ;) and of date February 1st, there is the follow, ing entrie : <' The elders, finding that the box and cuppes are under the ground, did think fitt to look them, to see if they were spoil'd : which they did accordingly, and delivered the two cuppes to Alexander Cowie,'* (one of their number,) " to keep. As for the box, they delay the ordering of it till Sabbath next,— but there being a confusion in the countrie before Sabbath, the elders mctt, and putt up the box in a p/ivatc place.*' *^ March IHh, It was thought fitt to lift the box and the cuppes, be- ing beneath the ground, which was done accoidiugly." LAURENCEKIRK. 135 indicate, that the population towards the beginning of last century was not under — probably above — what Dr Webster made it in 1755, 757 souls. Population in 1801, - 1215 1811, > 1309 1821, . 1515 1831, - 1886 According to a census taken by the minister in the beginning of 1835, the population amounted to 1938, of whom 1391 were within the limits of the burgh. The following numbers, according to that census, will show the description of persons of whom the po- pulation of the parish chiefly consists. Of hand-loom weavers there are 68 ; day-labourers, 46 ; married farm-servants, 39 ; shoemakers or cobblers, 16 ; wrights or carpenters, 8 ; masons, 8; tailors, 7 ; all of whom are heads of families. Of weavers there are also 44 unmar- ried men and boys ; 35 unmarried females, including widows, be- sides a few married women. Along with these may be mentioned 7 men and 25 women employed at the spinning-mill of Blackie- muir. It will be observed that there has been a continued diminution in the number of inhabitants in the rural portion of the parish. There can be no hesitation in ascribing this diminution, in great part, to the altered mode of letting farms, by which several are united under one tenant. The tenants, partly from this cause, and partly from others, now employ unmarried servants more fre- quently than those that are married, — a system which contributes to send into the villages a large proportion of the married agricul- tural labourers, — a valuable part of our population, but not likely to be improved in such a situation. This system tends further to destroy, in a great degree, the connection between master and ser- vants, — the unmarried class being more changeable, and more in- dependent of their masters. The character of this connection is greatly injured, also, by the universal practice of engaging the un- married servants only at the term-day market, when previous good conduct will be of less avail to the servant for procuring another engagement, than a plausible exterior. The increase in the village population, arising in part from the circumstances just adverted to, is mainly owing, in this parish, to the establish- ment of the agencies of several weaving companies. The general effect of such establishments has been, to draw to the towns and villages. all who are engaged in manufacturing employment. At a former period, not yet beyond the recollection of persons alive, there was carried on, in this quarter, an extensive domestic manu- 136 KINCARDINESHIRE. facture of linen, which was commonly known in the markets by the name of ^^ Mearns linen/' and the spinning of the yarn, and manu- iacturing of the cloth, afforded employment to many hands in the families both of tenants and of crofters. This system is now en- tirely done away : at the old markets which used to be held seve- ral days in succession, the day formerly appropriated for the sale of linen is a blank ; all those employed in weaving have, with scarcely an exception, gone to the villages, and there, at least in Laurencekirk, by far the greater part work, not at home, but in public weaving«shops. The population of the village in- creased very rapidly from the earlier part of this century, till about seven years ago, but since that time it has been making less rapid progress, in consequence of the state of trade, and of the wages which hand-loom weavers now earn being exceedingly low, — fre- quently 8s. a-week, by working fifteen or sixteen hours a-day. The yearly average of births may be stated as about 60, and that of deaths about 38 ; that of marriages in which both parties belong to the parish, 9 ; and 8 where either party is of a different parish. The average number of persons of the following ages may be stated as under. Under 15, 780 16, and under 80, 460 30, 50, 428 50, 70, 206 70 and upwards, 112 1938 There are only 21 males of fifty years of age or upwards, who are unmarried, all of them being widowers except 5. There are about 112 females above forty-five who are unmarried. According to the census in 1835, there were 467 families (in- cluding in that number single individuals living alone,) 366 in the burgh, and 101 in the country. In the character of children in these families, t. e. of unmarried persons, of any age, living in the houses of their parents, there were 625 and 192 respectively, in burgh and in country, in all, 817. According to this calculation, the proportion of children to a family, in the burgh is 1.7 to 1, in the country 1.9 to 1, and over the parish, 1.75 to 1. If we deduct from the number of families the number of single unmarried persons, widowed or not living alone, there remain in burgh 272, and in country 83 families, among whom the same number of children has to be divided, making the proportion 2.3 to 1 in the burgh, and 2.31 to 1 in thf country : and if we deduct farther LAURENCEKIRK. 137 the married persons, who either have had no children, or with whom none of their children are now residing, there remain 217 and 67 families, to whom the 817 children actually belong, making the proportion 2.88 to 1 in the burgh and 2.87 to 1 in the country. There are 315 houses within the burgh, and 100 in the country, of which all, with the exception of five of the former, are more or less occupied. Each of the four proprietors draws more than L. 50 of rent from land in this parish. None of them reside in it ; but Mr Gibbon of Johnston resides in the neighbourhood, and Johnston Lodge is occupied by Mrs Farquhar, the relict of James Farquhar, Esq. of Johnston. There has of late been scarcely any building in the parish, ex- cept where new houses have been erected in place of such as were decayed : indeed, so small appears to be the demand for addi- tional dwelling-houses, that several portions of ground which were feued some years ago still remain without any building up- on them. The situation of the village affords no peculiar advan- tages for increase. It is about six miles from any quarry of suita- ble building stones ; there is little or no command of any other fuel than coal, which is all sea-borne to Johnshaven or Mon- trose, and from the latter there is a land carriage of ten miles and from the former upwards of seven. Notwithstanding these circum- stances, and the rapid and superabundant increase of population, the inhabitants may be said to enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and advantages of society ; — and, notwithstanding the difficulties with which many of them have to contend, they appear in general to be contented. The diet of the labouring classes consists, usually, of meal, milk, and potatoes. Fish is had in consi- derable abundance ; and the use of wheaten bread and of butcher meat is by no means uncommon, as is vouched by the fact, that there are in the village three bakers, and as many butchers, though all of them may not be fully employed in their profes- sion. There are two surgeons resident in the village. The habits of the people are cleanly : their houses, for the most part, are kept in good order, undergoing generally more or less of a weekly purification : and it both improves the appearance of the place, and promotes the health of the inhabitants, and their taste for order, that there is attached to almost every dwelling-house a small piece of garden ground, in keeping which neatly, neigh- bours have a spirit of becoming emulation. The people are at- 1 38 KINCARDINESHIRE. tentive to religious services, although the want of church accom- modation is unfortunately producing a visible change on the indi- vidual attendance on divine worship* On the whole, if the trade of hand-loom weaving were a little better, the church somewhat larger, and the public-houses two thirds less in number, aod less frequented, Laurencekirk might present a favourable speci- men of a thriving Scottish village. The general healthiness of the situation has already been noticed. It may be added, that while there are three or four individuals, who can scarcely be said to possess soundness of mind, there is only one insane person connected with the parish ; but three others reside, as boarders in a family who have long had the care of persons in this unfortunate condition. There are two aged women quite blind, and two young boys affected with nearly total loss of sight There is no deaf and dumb person in the parish. IV. — Industry. In regard to the particulars connected with agriculture, the following valuable information was supplied by Mr Robertson in 1832. ^^ The contents of the parish amount to 5381 imperial acres, classed as under. " 1. Arable, . 5000 2. Waste, or in pasture, . 120 (of which 90 are improvable. ) 3. Roads, . . . 41 4. Plantations, . 220 5381 " The whole of the woods in the parish have been planted. The plantations consist chiefly of larch, spruce, and Scotch firs, with a few deciduous trees intermixed. The hedge-rows and de- tached trees are chiefly ash, elms and beech, with a few oaks, birch and sycamore. None of the fir plantations are supposed to exceed sixty years of age, the greater part not much more than thirty. Some of the old trees about Johnston Lodge, and the site of the mansion-house of Haulkerton, those near the manse, and a few in the hedge-rows and gardens of the different farms, may perhaps be from eighty to a hundred years old. The fir plantations are carefully pruned and thinned, and the hedge-rows and hardwood trees have, for some years past, been pruned and attended to. Rent — " The average rent of the arable land is about L. 1, Ss, per imperial, or L. 1, 8s. fid. per Scots acre. In the vicinity of the LAURENCEKIRK. 139 village, the land, though poor, is let at the rate of from L. 2 to L. 2, 16s. per imperial acre. " There are no cattle or sheep grazed in the parish by the season, all the pasture being consumed by the cattle reared or fed by the occupiers of land. Rate of Labour. — " The foUowingare the usual ratesof the wages of agricultural labourers : — Married men-servants are engaged by the year, and generally get a house and garden, a cow kept, and six and a-half bolls of meal, and some potatoes, besides several barrels of coals, some brush -wood for fuel, and from L. 6 to L. 8 yearly of money wages. Unmarried ploughmen are engaged half-yearly, and their wages vary from L. 5 to L. 6, 10s. (for the six months,) with two pecks of oatmeal weekly, an allowance of milk, and a quantity of potatoes, with lodging and fuel. Boys are from L. 1, 10s. to L. 3, 10s. half-yearly, with the usual allowance for keep. Men in harvest get about L. 2, 10s. with victuals and beer. Labourers by the day receive in summer Is. 8d. to 2s., in winter about Is. dd. to Is. 6d., and in harvest, besides victuals, 2s. 6d. to ds* Women-servants* wages are about L. 2 for winter half-year, and from L. 3 to L. 4 for summer half-year. When engaged by the day for working in the fields, they get 7d. in winter, and 8d. or 9d. in summer. When engaged for harvest they get from L. 1, Ids. to L. 2 with victuals. Reapers get for cutting per threave, 3d. or 3^d. without victuals." (For eight or^nine years past, however, almost all the farmers have cut down their crops with the scythe.) ^' In regard to the prices of different articles of produce, or mate- rials employed in agriculture, and the wagesof country tradesmen, the following particulars may be stated : — Flax per stone of 14 lb. 7s.; wool from 7s. to 9s. per imperial stone; yarn, hand-spun, none made ; yarn mill-spun, see Manufactures ; linen cloth, home made, none made for sale; lime per boll, 2s. lid.; dung per double horse load from Laurencekirk, 6s. ; slates, Dunkeld, L. 2, 5s. per 1000; slates, Easdale, L. 3, 3s. per 1000 ; slates, Turin, 10s. per 100; tiles, L. 4 per 1000 ; masons per day, with- out victuals, in summer, 2s., in winter. Is. 8d. ; carpenters, without victuals, in summer, 2s. 3d., in winter Is. 8d. ; ruble mason work, per rood of 36 ells, including carriage and price of materials, from L.6, 10s. to L. 7, 10s. Live Stock, — " The horses used for agricultural purposes are ge- nerally bought in the west country markets, particularly in those of Stirling, Lanark, and Ayrshires ; but, of late years, the greater part 140 KINCARDINESHIRE. have been reared in the parish, to which branch of* rural economy much attention is now paid. Colts reared in the parish resemble the Lanark or Clydesdale breed, but have less bone. The colours preferred are black or dark bay. " The cattle are generally a mixture of the Angus and Aber- deen breeds, but nearer the Aberdeenshire ; the colour black and polled ; they have the deep and broad chest of the Aberdeen ox, and are not so long in the spine as the Angus breed. Great at- tention is paid to the rearing of black-cattle ; and great care taken in selecting the animals to breed from. Part are generally sold in the autumn, when rising three years old, for the road, t. e. for. the English market, and part fed in winter and sold for the Glasgow market, where they fetch the highest prices." (Some of the best animals have lately been sent, by the Aberdeen and Dundee steam vessels, and more lately by the Montrose steamer, to London, where they find a ready sale, and generally bring a remunerating price.) " No sheep are reared in the parish, and very few are grazed or fed. Husbandry. — " The convertible system of husbandry is universally followed ; and as the soil is best adapted for the grass and turnip hus- bandry, what is called the shift course is generally adopted. The four-shift course is followed where the soil is a deep loam, and even in inferior soils near Laurencekirk, where there is a command of manure. Where manure is at a distance, a seven-shift course has been tried by some farmers, two successive white crops being taken after the land has been in grass for three years ; but this course is by no means common. The drill husbandry, as applicable to the cultivation of green crops, is universally followed ; but after some slight trials, this mode of sowing white crops has been aban- doned. Lime has until lately been applied to fallow land ; but as the prices obtained for produce are now ' peace' prices, while the rents paid are still ' war' rents, the quantity of lime applied is di- minishing yearly, and, it is to be feared, that a diminution of the produce must be the consequence. " The usual duration of leases is nineteen years, and the con- ditions of lease are those now generally introduced over Scotland. Although the tenant is bound to a certain rotation of cropping, yet this is seldom strictly attended to, and he is generally left free to exercise his own judgment, and to follow what course may seem to himself most advantageous. " Of the farm-houses many are of two stories and slated, but thcv LAURENCEKIRK. ^ 141 are of iDferior size and accommodation ; the offices are slated, at least partially. At entry the buildings are made over at a valua- tion, and a small sum is given out of the first rents for making ad- ditions and repairs ; sometimes wood is also given upon inventory. At expiry of leases, the houses must be left of the same value, and of the additional value of the money and wood allowed by the pro- prietor at entry. Sometimes the tenant is allowed to meliorate to a certain extent over and above this, for which he is paid at his removal. ^Jo allowance is made to the tenant for carriages. This mode of keeping up, and of making additions to the farm-build* ings, by throwing the principal part of the burden on the tenant, is objectionable in many respects, and particularly as compelling him to apply capital for the purpose of building and repairing houses that ought to be used for the improvement of his farm, and in making a profitable return. " The parish is only very partially enclosed. About fifty or sixty years ago, after Lord Gardenstone purchased the lands of John- ston and Blackiemuir, the village was laid out on a regular plan, the whole estate was divided into regular fields, enclosed with hedges and hedge-rows, and plantations were also made with much taste on different parts of the estate. Except for the purpose of shelter and forming marches, between the different allotments of land, these hedges are now of little value ; but still with the hedge- rows, they giv^ the village and adjacent ground a rich and wood- ed appearance. Part of the adjoining lands appear to have been enclosed with thorn-hedges about the time when Johnston had been enclosed ; but to the hedges little attention has been paid, and few, if any, additional enclosures have since been formed. In this respect much remains to be done." " Few or no improvements have lately been made ; what has been done is chiefly in opening new roads through the parish, which is well supplied with what are called parish roads. The communication with the coast has been greatly improved by the opening of two leading lines of road, which pass at the eastern and western extremitiesof this parish, of which the one was made only recently, and the other about thirty years ago. Within the last twenty-five years about 80 acres of marshy grounds have been well drained ; but there is still a piece of land of nearly the same extent, standing greatly in need of the same improvement. This, however, cannot be effected without the removal of a dam-dike, of which the privilege belongs to the mill 142 KINCARDINESHIRE. of Blackiemuir, and the formation of a new channel for the Lu- ther, by the overflowing and stagnation of whose waters the marsh is occasioned. It is understood that arrangements have been in contemplation, with a view to this improvement ; and were it ac* complished, the whole district would be benefited, the hoar-frosts would be in a great measure prevented, which so frequently rise on these marshes, and to a considerable distance injure the sur- rounding crops, and much land, which at present is subject to be flooded, and thus unfit for tillage, would be rendered of consider- able value. The remainder of the waste ground in the parish does not exceed 30 or 40 acres. '^ The great obstacles to improvement are felt chiefly in the want of enclosures, of planting for the purpose of shelter, and of ! sufficient and substantial accommodation in the farm-buildings. There is no supply of proper building stone for dikes, and the \ only substitute is hedges, yet, although the soil is well adapted for • the growth of thorn and beech, the farms are generally open and unenclosed, and the whole district, though naturally fertile, pre- sents rather a bleak appearance. << Although there are serious and well grounded objections to throwing land into too great farms, yet there is a class of farms that are neither great nor small, varying from 100 to I. SO acres, commonly called four horse farms, which are objectionable in many respects. Of this description a considerable part of the farms in this parish consist. It would be perhaps better, that after the croft of four acres, and the small farm of 40 or 50, there should be no intermediate class, until the extent amounts to nearly 300 acres ; of this class there are only three or four in the parish. Gross Produce. — " In order to ascertain the gross produce, it is necessary to show how the 5000 arable acres which the parish contains are cultivated. 1. Fallow and Green Crop. Pease and beans, 80 acres, yielding 3 quarters per acre. Pototoes, ] 60 V'^ *!°"» **^ ^^t impel ( rial stones per do. Turnips, 640 12 tons do. do. Fallow, 120 1000 2. Grain Crop, Wheat, 80 yielding 3 quarters per acre. Barley, 760 d( do. do. do. OaU, 1160 4* do. do. do. 2000 3. Gra4», Hay, 500 yielding 170 imperial stones per aor« Pasture, 1600 24s. do. Ho/ "aooo LAURENCEKIRK. 143 Prodiu:e,'-^ Pease and beans, 240 quarters at 288.* - L. 896 Wheat, . 240 . 52b. . 624 Barley, - 2660 - SOs. . - 3990 Oats, - 5220 - 22k. 5742 L. 10,692 Straw, - 8360 . 58. - 2090 Potatoes, - 3200 bolls, at Ss. . L. 1280 Turnips, 7G80 tons, at 7s. - 2688 3968; e Hay, 85000 imperial stones of 14 lb. at 4d. L. 1416 13 4 Pa8ture,l500 acres at 24s. 1800 ■ 3216 15 4 Wood sold yearly, . - 80 L. 20,046 18^ To which should be added the produce of gardens not ascertained. Bestial. — /lorte«,«- Used in agriculture, - - V40 Carriage, post, gig and saddle horses, 40 Carriers' horses, . 9 Foals reared annually, 16 Toul, 205 Ca«fe.— Cows, - - 287 Young cattle of 1, 2, and 8, years old, 756 Calves reared, - - 280 Do. fed,, - 25at408. L.50 Cattle bought in for grazing and feeding, 136 1484 Other animaU^Vi^ reared and fed, 250, 100 lb. each at 4d. 416 13 4 Poultry kept — Hens, 687, Chickens reared, 1374, at 5d. 28 12 6 Ducks, 150, Ducklings, 300, at6d. 7 10 Eggs produced, 3600 dozen at 6d. 90 Butter made, 1 1200 lb. at 7d. 326 13 4 Cheese do. 84001b. at 3d. 105 Yearly produce of dairy, poultry, and pigs, L. 1024 9 2 Disposable produce. Pease and beans, 180 quarters at 2R8. L. 252 Wheat, 180 . 52s. 468 Barley, 2090 - dOs. 3136 Oats, 2088 - 22s. 2296 16 Potatoes, lOOOboUsat 88. 400 Hay, 20000 imperial stones at 4d. 883 6 8 6885 2 8 CaUle #oM.— Fat cattle, 151 at L. 10, 10s. Lean do. 264 at L, 7, 10s. Calves, &t, 25 at L. 2. From which deduct 1 36 cattle bought in at L. 5, lOs. 2792 10 P>^«.— 220 sold, 100 lb. each, at 4d. 366 13 4 Dairy produce.— Cheese 4000 lb. at 8d. Butter, 7500 lb. at 7d. 268 16 Poultry sold.^Hens ^^ tit Is. 17 3 Chickens 344 at 5d. 7 8 4 L. 1585 10 1905 50 8540 10 748 t 50 218 15 * The prices of grain have been reduced from those oC ii\« oi\f^iMi\ «»^c^]^a^L\Qtl vcw 1882, to suit in some degree the fall of prices since tYval \Vn\e. 144 KINCARDINESHIRE. Ducks 50, at Is. I..2 10 O Ducldiogs, 100, at6d. 2 10 O Eggs, 2400 dosen, at 6d. 60 O O 89 6 4 Total disposable produce, L. 10,402 7 4 Rental — The yearly rental of the parish is about L. 5775 Ster- ling, and the valued rent is L. 4294, 19s. 8d. Scots. Manufactures. — " The principal manufacture in the parish b that of yam from flax, and the weaving of linen. The only spin- ning-mill in operation is that of Blackiemuir, which employs about 7 men and 25 women, who work generally fourteen hours a day, including an hour and a half for meals. The yam manufactured at Blackiemuir is nearly as under : 24000 spindles, 3 lb. at 2s. Id. - L. 2500 O 13500 do tow yarn, 6 lb. at 2s. 3d. 1518 15 O L.4018 15 ^^ The other branch of the linen trade consists in hand-loom vireav- ing, the yarn for which is supplied chiefly by the great manufactur- ing houses in Aberdeen. The number of pieces and yards made an- nually mayon anaverage be as under : Pieces 5812; yards 416,440, value, L. 13,106. The average sum obtained for weaving, being at the rate of 1^. per yard, is L. 2168, 19s. 2d. The weavers in general work about fifteen hours a day, and the most able and industrious seldom earn more than 7s. or 8s. a week. Snuff-Box Manufacture, — " The only other branch of trade re- quiring to be noticed is that of the well-known Laurencekirk snufi-boxes. These were all originally made by Mr Stiven, the inventor, and the business is still carried on by his son ; but there are other tradesmen in the village also employed in the manufac- ture." V. — Parochial Economy. Markets, Sfc. — There are no market-towns in the parish, and there is no village except Laurencekirk. In terms of the charter procured by Lord Gardenstone, the village was ** erected into a free and independent burgh of barony," the limits of which were de- clared to be 838 yards on each side of the King's highway, as far as it passed through his Lordship's lands, that is, for about three- quarters of a mile. A bailie and four councillors are triennially elected on the first Wednesday of June, all resident feuars of legal age having the privilege of burgesses, and right to vote at elections : and the charter farther authorizes the holding of a weekly market, and of a free annual fair for three days succes- sively^, beginning the first Wednesday of November. This fair LAURENCEKIRK. 145 is now held only on the Thursday. A weekly market was at- tempted some years ago^|and has again been proposed, and there seems reason to think that it should succeed, if all parties con- cerned cordially joined in the attempt, as there is no market-town nearer than Montrose, which is upwards of nine miles from the nearest part of the parish, and thirteen from the most remote. Fairs. — There are seven annual fairs in the parish; five of these are held within the burgh, — one in January, for engaginir. married farm- servants, — one at each of the terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas, for hiring unmarried servants, — and two cattle trysts, in April and November ; the other two fairs are on Lau- rence muir, (about a mile and a half from Laurencekirk), viz. the old established market of Laurence Fair, for the sale of cattle, horses, and sheep in August, and a cattle tryst in September. Means of Communication. — The parish enjoys abundant means of communication. There is a daily post; and two different stage- coaches, the one by Dundee, and the other by Perth, pass every lawful day between Edint)urgh and Aberdeen, from which latter place Laurencekirk is distant twenty-nine miles. There are like- wise several carriers passing weekly to Aberdeen, Perth, and Dundee, besides others to neighbouring towns and villages. There are four carriers to Montrose, each of whom goes two or three times a week. The length of the turnpike-road in the pa- rish is four miles. The situation of tne parish church is, on the whole, very conve- nient, closely adjoining the village, and also the turnpike road. Three-fourths of the inhabitants are within a mile of the church, and there are only three families who have to travel so far as three miles to it. It was built in 1804 ; and was enlarged in 1819, at the joint expense of the poor funds, and Mr Farquhar, the rents of the seats in the additional part being drawn by these parties. It is in tolerable repair, but is much too small for the congregation, — a misfortune under which it seems the lot of this parish to labour. In 1792, Mr Forbes, the writer of the former Statistical Ac- count, says, ^^ The church is by much too small for the congrega- tion ;" yet no addition was made to it, till it was rebuilt in 1804; and fifteen years afterwards an enlargement became necessary. The present church is calculated to hold about 760 ; but on this calculation less than eighteen inches are allowed for each sitting, of which the inconvenience is pecuUarly felt, when the sitters are chiefly grown persons, as must be the case when a church KINCARDINE. K 1 16 KINCARDINESHIRE. is tx)o small. The number of those actually communicating at the dispensation of the Lord's supper generally exceeds even the number of these calculated sittings by 120. All the sittings are either in the hands of heritors and their tenants, or let and occu- pied. The manse now consists of what were two successive additions, the one built in 1796, and the other in 1805, when the old manse was taken down, and the addition of 1796 left standing. Since 1805, no farther changes have been made, except what were ne- cessary to keep the building in ordinary repair. The glebe con- sists of nearly 9 acres of arable land, which may be valued at about L. 20 per annum. The minister has also possessed, froni time immemorial, a piece of ground of about 9 acres, at present let for L. 1, ds. per acre, a mile distant from the manse, and surround- ed by Lord Kintore's lands. This possession, it is understood, was bestowed on the incumbent of the parish in times of Popery, and escaped only by its insignificance, from the hands which seiz- ed so large a portion of the Church property, at the period of the Reformation. The stipend consists of 16 chalders of grain, half barley and half meal, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements ; and on the average of the last six years amounted to about L. 236. For crop 1826, the stipend considerably exceeded the teind. The minister has the right of digging peats on a piece of ground called the Mi- nister's Moss, on the top of the Cairn of Moi!mt, one of the Gram- pian Hills, — on which hill also the farmers on Lord Kintore's estate were in use to avail themselves of the privilege of digging peats; but for some years the practice has been much discontinued. The patronage of the church belongs to St Mary's College, St Andrews, to whom Archbishop John Hamilton, the last Roman Catholic Primate, gave the teinds of the parish, for the endow- ment of the recently erected college..* • The following extracts from the deed may not be uninteresting. The title is, " Donatio Ecclesiae Parochialis de Conveth per Joannem Archiepiscopum St Andree in favorem Magistrorum, Kegentiuin, Capellanorum, Bursariorum, et Studciitium Novi Collegil." •* Junii 26. 1550." The rectory was vacant at the time of the do- nation, as appears from the following clause : ** Cum itaque parochialis ecclesla rec- toria nuncupata de Convetli nostrac Sti Andreas diocesis quam nupcr bona; memoris Magister Willielmus Lamb dum vivcret obtinebat per obiium tyusdem Willielmi ex- tra Romanam curiam et in partibus defuncti vacaverit et vacet ad presens,'' &c. Another extract shews the provision made for the performance of the pastoral duties in Conveth, and also affords some illustration of the general views at that time ex- pressed by the Romish Hierarchy as to pastoral superintendence, " Voluuius autem quod propter perpetuam unionem, annexationem, et incorporationem prepfatas paro- chialis ecclesia dc Conveth unita hujusmodi debitis propterea non fraudetur obsequiis LAURENCEKIRK. 147 Lord Gardenstone having obtained funds, to which he himself largely contributed, for building an Episcopalian chapel in the village of Laurencekirk, he attached to the lands of Johnston the burden of upholding the building, — of paying to the minister of the chapel (who is presented by the proprietor of Johnston) L. 40 and 40 bolls of meal annually, — and of maintaining a house for him. He likewise assigned a garden and three acres of ground to the minister, who draws nothing from the congregation, which is by no means numerous. There had formerly been an Episcopa- lian chapel near the village or Kirktown, on the south-east side of it, of which the remains are remembered by persons yet alive ; but it is not known when it was discontinued. There were also two small chapels about three or four miles distant from the vil- lage to the east and west, of which one was within this parish. These were used for some time after the Laurencekirk chapel was opened, but it is now many years since they were taken down. There are 159 persons in this parish connected with the chapel, (according to the census of 1835,) viz. 85 adults and 74 children. There is also a Berean meeting-house in the village, in which divine service is performed by a person, who follows a mechanical profession, who resides in the parish of Fettercairn, and officiates also there. It is attended by very few persons, the individuals of the Berean connection in this district being but scattered remains and descendants of the followers of Barclay, by whom the sect was founded in 1773. In this parish there are only 17 Bereans, all persons of advanced years, except 7, who compose one family. There is no other dissenting place of worship. The only other Dissenters are 13 Independents, (two families and two single indi- viduals,) who attend at Sauchieburn, in the parish of Mary kirk ; 9 Associate Synod Seceders, (7 adults and 2 children,) who ge- nerally attend at Luthermuir, in the same parish ; and 1 Glassite. The average number of persons communicating at the dispen- sation of the Lord's supper, in the Established Church, is about 880 : the actual number of communicants in the parish (accord- Gt anixnarum cura in eadcin et illi imminens nullatenus negligatiir sed per vicarium pensionarium jam forsan institutum et in futunim per nos et sucoessores nostros Sti Andreae Archiepiscopos pro tempore iustitucDdum que de fructibus dictas paro- chialis ecclcHiee units sufficientem portionem pro sua annua sustentatione una cum mansione et horto habeat percipiat et possidcat juxta formam et tcnorem statutorum et decretorum tarn provincialis quam synodalis conciliorum per nos novissime cele- bratorum editor um et promulgatorum in diviiiis debite de&eiviatur et ^usdem con- grue supportetur onera consueta," &c. 148 KINCARDINESHIRE. ing to the census of 1835) is 915; there being, after deduction of 159 Episcopalians, 17 Bereans, 13 Independents, 9 SecederSyOnd 1 Glassite, 1739 persons in connection with the Established Church. Education, — Besides the parochial school, there are three other schools conducted by male teachers, and four schools conducted by females; but of the seven private schools none are endowed, or supported in any way, but by the school fees, excepting, per- haps, in the case of the male teachers, occasional assistance towards defraying the school-room rent. At the parish school, the master, who is a licentiate of the church, is qualified to teach all the branches usual at the better parochial schools of the country. The branches which he has actually taught are, English read- ing and grammar, writing, arithmetic, mathematics, mensuration, navigation, geography, and Latin. The school is attended by about 70. The salary of the schoolmaster is only L.20 in money,aDd 10 bolls, 1 firlot, and 3 pecks of meal in kind, which is considerably less than the maximum salary. The school fees received by him in the year amount to about L. 30. He has neither house nor gar- den, but receives L. 8 instead of the former, and L. 2, 2s. in place of the other. He receives also annually L. 3, 6s. 8d. from the Glenfarquhar mortification, and the interest of L. 50 from the Charles donation ; and for these he teaches seven children gratis. The other three male teachers instruct their pupils (in all about 100) in English reading, and grammar, writing, and arithmetic, and occasionally in one or two other branches. The females are employed chiefly in teaching younger children to read, and in giving instructions in various kinds of female handiwork. There may be nearly 70 in all at their four schools. All the private teachers except one are of the Established Church, and in all the schools suitable attention is paid to the religious instruction of the pupils. The fee for English reading at the parochial school is 2s. 6d. per quarter, and for the other branches in propor- tion. At one or two of the private schools, the fees are somewhat higher, and at others lower. Children usually go to school when five years old, so that it can hardly be said that there are any between six and fifteen years of age who cannot either read or write, and there are scarcely any, not more perhaps than three or four, above that age who cannot read. There is no family distant more than about two miles from a school, either in this or in some adjoining parish, and few more than a mile. The inhabitants LAURENCEKIRK. 149 in general shew a desire to avail themselves of this advantage. The proportion, however, of children attending schools tp the whole population is not above one to seven and a half or eight It is the practice in not a few cases that children of a numerous family get a quarter or two at school in rotation, — sometimes even that two of them go alternately each day or meeting, — an imperfect system, to which it may be said, that poverty consents rather than their will. Frequently the children are sent to herding or to service in the sum* mer half-year, the winter months being reserved for farther educa- tion, if thought necessary, or found convenient. When they are sent to the loom, as is the case with a very large proportion of the children of the village, they are generally taken from school about the age of eleven or twelve, and seldom return to it at all ; and they too often enter on a life of busy care, with nearly as imperfect furniture in their minds, as their early marriages too frequently allow them to gather for their dwellings, before they are involv- ed in the expenses of a house and family. The chief advantage of education is derived from the encouragement of right principles, and the infusion of religious knowledge, and not from the mere acquisition of the faculty of reading, which may readily be turn- ed to an improper and unpro6table use. But it is to be feared, that young persons are often supposed to have received sufficient educa- tion, before they have reached an age when those impressions can be rightly made, which alone will preserve them against the influ- ence of the varied temptations among which they are to be speedily thrown. There are two foundations connected with the parochial school on which children receive education gratis. By a deed executed in 1716, Sir Alexander Falconer of Glenfarquhar (whose repre- sentative is now the Earl of Kintore) mortified the sum of L, 140 Scots annually, of which L. 40 should be paid to the schoolmaster for teaching poor children, and the remaining L. 100 (or 24 bolls of meal, in the option of his representative,) should be divided among four boys of the name of Falconer, or born in the parish, who were also to be taught yra^w. The same benevolent individual mortified (by deeds of date 1712 and 1717) L. 500 Scots annual- ly, for the education of seven bursars, at the King's College of Aberdeen, of the names of Falconer, or Ramsay, or born in the parishes of Conveth or Fordoun, of whom three should receive L. 60 each, and the others L. 80 each ; the presentation now be- longing to his heir (Lord Kintore,) and Sir Alexander Ramsay, 150 KINCARDINESHIRE. Bart, of Balmain. It is only the later of these deeds that is act- ed on, according to which there are four bursars. The Rev. John Charles, minister of Garvock, from a benevolent regard to the pa- rochial school at which he received the rudiments of education, presented to the kirk-session in 1825, the sum of L. 50, of which the interest should, in all time coming, be paid to the parish school- master, as the fees for his teaching two or more poor children to be named by the kirk-session. Libraries. — There are three libraries in the parish, more or less of a public kind. One belongs to the Episcopal clergy of the diocese of Brechin, and is deposited in the Episcopal chapel. It is indebted for its origin, and for most of its contents, to the late Bishop Abernethy Drummond, and now consists of upwards of 1000 volumes, of which the greater number are theological, and some are of considerable value. Persons of literary education or pursuits in the neighbourhood have always experienced much li- berality in obtaining access to the library. Lord Grardenstone founded what he calls, " The Public Library of Laurencekirk," and from various quarters he obtained donations of books for it. In the small but neat building, which was erected to contain the li- brary, a few rare shells, minerals, and stuffed birds were deposited, as the commencement of a sort of museum. His designs, however, were not prosecuted after his death, and the books and other con- tents have in various ways been greatly diminished. There has also been for several years a parochial library, consisting of about 306 volumes chiefly for the use of the young, many of whom make fre- quent application for them. Friendly Societies. — There are four Friendly Societies in the parish, which survived the unfortunate and ill-founded panic, pro- duced by the late act of Parliament, for the regulation of these valuable institutions. Since 1830 a species of Eriendly Society has existed here, which is dissolved and renewed at the term of Whit- sunday yearly, each member depositing weekly a fixed sum, and also a small sum additional, to form a benefit fund for allowances, in case of sickness or death of members. At the annual dissolution, each member receives back the whole amount, with interest, of his fixed weekly deposits, and also his share of the remainder of the benefit fund, after payment of allowances and necessary expenses. The plan of the society is well fitted for those who receive their earnings from time to time, by enabling them to meet large term* LAURENCKKIRK. 151 ly or other stated payments, or to gather such a sum as may be after- wards deposited in an institution of a more permanent kind. As connected with this parish, there may also be mentioned the Mearns- shire Farmer Society, which holds its meetings at Laurencekirk. It was instituted in 1 792, for making provision for the widows and children of deceased members, each widow receiving L. 10 an- nually. It has now a capital stock of upwards of L. 7000, and in- cludes among its members, in number about 120, persons of va- rious professions in the surrounding country. The present preses is the Viscount of Arbuthnott, who, with his well known public spirit, has taken a very active interest in the welfare of the society.* Poor and Parochial Funds, — There are, at present, 38 persons receiving a stated allowance out of the poor funds, — at an average of about L. 2, lOs. a year each, — and at least as many others re- ceiving occasional supply in sums of various amount, up to L. 1 an- nually. About one- fourth of the regular paupers are males, the others being chiefly aged women. The class of destitute women is rapidly increasing from the discontinuance of employments, by which females advancing in life were wont to eani some livelihood ; yet such is the inevitable result of the extensive use of machinery. There is a pauper lunatic maintained in the Montrose asylum, the expense of whose board is paid by the heri- tors. The ordinary collections in church throughout the year amount to rather more than L. 60 ; from the letting of seats be- longing to the poor funds, (see p. 145,) there is drawn annually about L. 10 ; the dues for mortcloths, and other small sources yield from L. 7 to L. 10 ; the two principal heritors usually send donations, of which the average annual amount has for some years been about L. 25 ; and, after payment of all expenses falling on the funds, there is fully requisite, in order to keep both sides of the accounts duly balanced, a sum of about L. 30, being the in- terest arising from several legacies and other sums belonging to the funds. Of these legacies one was bequeathed in 1646, by William Lawson in Powburn, who mortified " 300 merks to the kirk of Convay," the principal to remain in the hands of the kirk- session of Montrose. In 1825, Mrs Shank, relict of the Rev. Alexander Shank, minister of St Cyrus, left L. 100 to the kirk- session in aid of the poor ; in 1832, Alexander Crombie, Esq. of Phesdo, left L. 19, 19s., for the same purpose ; and in 1833, • This was written in J 836. The present present Preses Is the Master of Ar- buthnott. 152 KINCARDINESHIRE. James Farquhar, Esq, of Johnston, many years M. P. for the Aberdeen district of burghs, left to the kirk-session, in aid of the poor funds, the handsome sum of L. 500, Agreeably to the knowD views of the generous donors, the managers of the funds consider that it is only the interest arising from these sums that they are warranted to apply annually in aid of the poor. Miscellaneous Obseryations. Since the former Statistical Account was written, the popula- tion of this parish has increased very considerably, having been at that time about 1200, and being now nearly 2000. The whole of this increase, and more, has been in the village, — the rural po- pulation having diminished about 100. It is from this accession of inhabitants that the parish now takes its character. Its inte- rests are more closely connected with trade and manufactures, than with agriculture; but such improvements as would increase the comforts of the tenantry and of their servants, would benefit the villagers, by producing a greater circulation of money in the neigh- bourhood, and enabling them in turn to pay a better price for their food. It is, however, to be feared, that the employment of ma- chinery necessary, in the artificial state of this country, to pre- serve its commercial prosperity, must prevent any rise in the wages of hand-loom weaving, on which so large a part of the population of this parish are dependent Formerly, little weaving viras done except by the order of private customers ; now there is little done in this way. Almost the whole work is sent by the companies in Aberdeen, and any depression in the trade is first and most sensibly felt in a place such as this, at a distance from the seat of employ- ment, and possessing no natural advantages for its prosecution. In these circumstances, it would be beneficial if any means could be devised for checking the number of young people that annually flock to this profession, which, in a great degree, unfits them for any other in future life, and which, while they are encroaching on the profits of others, affords but a scanty pittance for themselves. And it is desirable, that no inducement should be afforded to per- sons to come from other quarters for employment here, by which work is taken from those who are already settled in the place, and have some claim upon it, and an encouragement is given to persons who are careless about their character and conduct, and unsettled in their habits, and who, leaving undischarged many of the oblim. tions of social life, migrate, as they list, from place to place. Revised April 1838. PARISH OF ARBUTHNOTT. PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JAMES MYLNE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Authentic documents in the possession of the Vis- count Arbuthnott afford the most distinct evidence that, previous to the twelfth century, the name of that family and of the^district was Aberbothenothe : that, about 1335, it had become Aberbuthnot ; and about 1443, Arbuthnott. Aher denotes the influx of a river into the sea, or of a smaller stream into a larger ; Both^ Bothena^ a dwelling, a baronial residence, Scotice " The House ;" Nethy or Neoth-ea (Jamieson's Scott Diet. Diss. p. 18,) the stream that descends or is lower than something else in the neighbourhood : whence the name Aberbothenothe may be understood to mean, " The confluence of the water below the Baron's house." This derivation is perfectly applicable to the site of the ancient castle, and the present nouse, the residence of the Arbuthnott family, who have been from time immemorial proprietors of the great- er part of this parish. The house stands on the narrow point of a projecting eminence, overlooking the water of Bervie, as it flows through a beautiful valley on the south : close beneath it on the east, a rapid rivulet, formerly of considerable size, runs through a deep hollow, and joins the Bervie a few hundred yards below. Extent and Boundaries. — This parishfcontains from 14 to 15 square miles of surface. Its greatest extent from east to west is about 5 miles, and from north to south about 4^. It is bounded on the west, by the water of Bervie, which separates it from the parishes of Laurencekirk and Fordoun ; on the north, by the Forthy, which separates it from Glenbervie ; on the north-east, by Dun- nottar; on the east, by Kinneff; on the south, by the parish of Bervie, from which it is separated by the water of Bervie for two miles and a half; after which it turns to the south-west, on which side it is bounded by the parish of Garvock. 154 KINCARDINBSUIRB. The highest land in Arbuthnott is Bruxiehill, which has an elevation of about 650 feet above the level of the sea. The sur- face of the parish is, however, very irregular, and much varied by hill and dale. It rises on all sides from the valley of the Bervie, which, in its winding course, extensive haughs, and steep wooded banks, presents, at many points of view, scenes of great beauty. Meteorology. — The mean of a series of observations made from time to time, for upwards of a year, on the temperature of four springs, which vary little in the quantity of water which they dis- charge, is 46° Fahr., which may be considered a very close ap- proximation to the mean annual temperature of the atmosphere. These springs, which are situated in the lowest part of the parish, near the bank of the Bervie, differ extremely little from one an- other in temperature. On September 21, 1836, their tempera- ture was 50° Fahr. and March 15, 1837, 42° Fahr. These were the highest and lowest temperatures observed. During the months of April, May, and June 1834, the average height of the baro- meter was as follows : 10 ▲. M. 6 p. M. April, - 30 29.88 May, . 30.46 80.07 June, - 29.94 29.84 The prevailing winds are the N. E. and S. E. but the severest is the S. W. Hydrography, — The average temperature of springs, as already mentioned, is 46° Fahr. They generally arise from gravel banks. A few chalybeate springs occur. The principal stream is the water of Bervie. In summer, when it is very small, its velocity is only about a mile ; but, in time of flood, it increases to four miles an hour. From the extent to which draining has been carried, it rises and falls very rapidly after rain, and embankments have in conse* quence become necessary for a great part of its course. Geology and Mineralogy, — The rocks are chiefly coarse sand- stone, trap, and what is here called scurdy,* Detached masses of gneiss and granite are occasionally met with. At a point on the north bank of the Bervie, a little below Arbuthnott House, beau- tifully variegated pebbles have been found imbedded in trap. The Viscountess Arbuthnott has a very fine collection of these, which have been cut and formed into a necklace. Calcareous spar is not uncommon, and heavy spar is found. On the south side • There is one small quarry of porpliyrv. 3 ARBUTHNOTT. 155 of the Bervie, and nearly opposite the church of Arbuthnott, small veins of manganese occur in a deep ravine called " The Hares* Den." Remains of Animals. — In the deepest part of a small peat- bog called the Hogs' Hole, lying between the estate of Kair and the farm of Old- cake, the skeletons of two red deer were found a few years ago, in cutting a deep ditch through it The horns are of extra- ordinary size, and are now in the vestibule of Arbuthnott House* The extreme breadth between the horns of the one is 4 feet ; the length of horn 3 feet 1 1 inches. The left horn has 8 antlers, the longest of which measures 18 inches ; and the right 7 antlers, the longest of which measures 16 inches. The extreme breadth be- tween the horns of the other is 3 feet 11 in. ; the length of horn 3 feet 6 inches. There are 7 antlers on each horn, the longest of which measures 15 inches. Botany. — Keeping in view that the parish contains no elevation much above 600 feet, and does not reach the sea, great variety in the botanical features of the parish cannot be expected. Epi" lobium angustifolium^ Agrimonia eupatoria^ the tiny meadow pink (Dianthtis deltoides)^ Saxifraga granulata^ Geranium luddum^ sylvaticum^ pratense^ and pyrenaicum (the last introduced from Salisbury crags), ornament the bank of our little river. A few plants of the elegant Vicia sylvatica^ and melancholy thistle de- scend from the more upland districts. The hand of agriculture has almost extirpated the plants of the marshes, Trollius Europceus (lucken gowan,) bur-marygold, and Anagallis tenella. In the warmest exposures the beautiful scarlet pimpernel (Anagallis ar^ vensisy) and Valeriana locusta^ are not uncommon. In the moist, deep, cool shades of our wooded dells are found the musky Adoxa moschatellina^ Festuca gigantea^ and Paris quadrifolia^ a singular plant, remarkable as the only representative on the old continent of an American genus (Trillium) of considerable beauty. Juncus glaucusj supposed by Dr Hooker to be confined to the west of Scotland, abounds in several of the vales, with a few plants of common adder's tongue (Ophioglossum vulgatiim.) Even Hor- deum murinumj supposed never to venture across the Forth, is found on the coast side, only two miles from the parish of Arbuth- nott. When Arbutus uva^ursi is added as a native of the drier moors, the more striking features of our little Flora will be com- pleted. A grass, however, here called sleepies (Bromus secalinusjj requires to be particularly noticed ; as it is one of the very few of 1 56 KINCARDINESHIRE. that tribe, possessing a deleterious property. When eaten, it ha; been found to act as an emetic and cathartic, to a dangerous degree. It is very common here among the winter wheats, and can scarce- ly be separated from the grain, as the seeds of it are large and heavy. In this district, a bitter infusion of the stalks of the barber- ry is used with success in jaundice. Beech, ash, elm, and plane, attain a large size. In front of Arbuthnott House, there is a fiae avenue of beeches, supposed to be upwards of two hundred years old. At the bottom of the garden, on the east side, on a space of scarcely 1000 square feet, beeches of the following size are at pre- sent growing, and in full vigour. Girth of Trunk No of Trees. one foot above ground. 1 feet above srouncL 2 3 4 6 6 7 - - 8 9 10 11 12 l.") 14 15 16 The height of these trees is about 70 feet. Two fine old yews, a male and a female, are in the manse garden. Their girth, talen one foot above the ground, is, of the one 7 feet 1 inch, and of the other 8 feet. They are from 35 to 40 feet high. II. — Civil History. Eminent Men. — Alexander Arbuthnott, the first Protestant Principal of King's College and University, Aberdeen, was a na- tive of this parish, and for some time its clergyman. He was the second son of Andrew Arbuthnott of Pitcarles, and Elizabeth Strathauchin, daughter of James Strathauchin, or Strachan of Monboddo, and sister of Alexander Strathauchin of Thornton. Andrew Arbuthnott was fourth son of Sir Robert Arbuthnott of Arbuthnott ; so that the Principal was a grandson, not a brother of the Baron of Arbuthnott, as Sir George Mackenzie and Spots- wood afiirm. After he had completed the regular course of studv at the University of St Andrews, he was sent to France in his twenty-third year, where he applied to the study of civil law for five years under the famous Cujacius, at the University of Bourges. 10 feet 3 inches. 9 feet inches. 6 . 5 4 6 2 . 6 5 8 6 6 7 3 . 6 6 6 5 H 7' 6 . 5 10 8 6 G 7 - 5 3 5 4 7 3 . 6 9 5 10 4 10 7 1 tm 5 9 4 9 4 6 3 m 4 5 10 4 9 ARBUTHNOTT. 157 Having taken the degree of licentiate, he returned to Scotland in 1566, with the intention of following his profession in his native country ; but, finding the principles of the Reformation prevalent, he became a zealous supporter of them ; and having given up the study of law for that of theology, he was appointed minister of Arbuthnott in 1567 * His abilities soon brought him into notice ; and iq 1568, being a member of the General Assembly, he was appointed by his brethren to examine a work, entitled, " The Fall of the Roman Church," which had been objected to, because in it the King was styled " The Head of the Church." The result of his examination was, an order to Bassandyne, the printer, to call in all the copies that had been issued, and to sell no more until he had not only expunged the objectionable passage from that work, but also removed a profane song which he had printed at the end of an edition of the book of Psalms ; and that for the future he should not print any book whatever without the license of the su- preme magistrate, nor any book connected with religion^ until it had been revised by the Assembly's commission. In 1569 he was ap- pointed Principal of the University of Aberdeen, in place of Mr Alexander Anderson, who, with the sub-principal and three regents, had been ejected by John Erskine (of Dun) superintendent of Angus (and Mearns) for their adherence to Popery, and refusal to subscribe the Confession of Faith. In 1572 he was a member of the General Assembly held at St Andrews, in which the scheme of the Regent Morton and his party to restore the old titles of the church, and retain the temporalities among themselves by means of titular incumbents, was strenuously opposed. In the Assem- blies held at Edinburgh in 1573, 1577, 1578, Principal Arbuth- nott was moderator ; and he appears to have been constantly em- ployed on the part of the church, in the commission for conferring with the regency respecting the form of church government to be adopted in Scotland. The leading part which he took in this matter gave umbrage to James VI., and the offence was increas- ed in 1582 by his superintending the publication of Buchanan's History of Scotland. In the course of that same year. Principal Arbuthnott was ordered, by an act of Assembly, to be removed from Aberdeen to St .Andrews ; but the King, suspecting the ob- * It is not known in what year be was appointed minister of Logie-Bucban. But he certainly held the livings of Arbuthnott and Logic- Buchan at the same time. Hence it would appear that even in these times, which are often referred to ai the pure and palmy days of the church, pluralities were not unknown. 158 KINCARDINESHIRE. ject of this removal to be, that the Assembly might more easDy enjoy the benefit of his advice, and with that view might transfer their sittings to St Andrews, a royal mandate was issued, forbid- ding him to absent himself from his college at Aberdeen. Tbe General Assembly, which met in 1583, remonstrated against this oppressive act of arbitrary power ; but the King remained inflexible. Principal Arbuthnott died soon after, 16th October, in the forty- fifth year of his age: *^ omnibus desideratus, nemini invisus/' says a manuscript account of him in the library at Arbuthnott House. He was buried in the chapel of King^s College, on the 20th Oc- tober 1 583. His character is given in highly favourable terms by Archbishop Spotswood in his History of Scotland ; and elegant epigrams in honour of him by Andrew Melvin and Thomas Mait- land, are to be found in the Deliciae Poetarum Scotorum. Id 1572 he published at Edinburgh, in 4to, an elegant and learned work, intituled, " Orationes de Origine et Dignitate Juris ;*' and he left in manuscript an account of the Arbuthnott family, inti- tuled, '' Origin is et incrementi Arbuthnoticae familiae descriptio historica," which is still preserved. It was afterwards translated by George Morrison, minister of Benholme, and continued by Alexander Arbuthnott, minister of Arbuthnott, to the period of the Restoration. John Arbuthnott, M. D. one of the wits of the reign of Queen Anne, and the most learned of the whole, was born in this parish April 1667 : He was the oldest son of the last mentioned Alexan- der Arbuthnott, (who was nearly related to the noble family of that name,) and Margaret Lamy, from the parish of Mary ton. In 1690, his father, being obliged to resign his charge in conse- quence of his refusal to comply with the Presbyterian system, which was restored at the Revolution in 1688, retired to the Castle of « Hallgreen, near Bervie, in the neighbourhood of which he posses- sed by inheritance the small estate of Kinghornie. His sons de- termining to seek their fortune abroad, John went to London, where he employed himself for some time as a teacher of mathe- matics. His subsequent career will be found in Kippis's Biog. Brit, and the common biographies of learned men. Sihhalds of Kair, — In the latter part of. the fifteenth century, James Sybbalde, chaplain of the Church of St Ternan of Arbuth- nott, was eminent as a calligraphist. Some splendid specimens of his art still remain. In the Statistical Account of 1796 it is mentioned that Dr ARBUTHNOTT. 159 David Sibbald, having been preceptor to the Duke of Gloucester, son of Charles 1., was imprisoned in London for his attachment to the royal cause, and had his estate forfeited. He lived, how- ever, to see the restoration, and died in his own house of Kair in 1661. James Sibbald, D. D. Minister of Aberdeen, appears to have been the son of this Dr David Sibbald, and the only daughter of John Arbuthnott of Mondynes. On the death of Charles L he laid down his charge, and fled to Dublin, where, being elected pas- tor of a congregation, he ended his days in the office of the minis- try. His brother, John Sibbald, minister of Arbuthnott, (and pre- decessor of Alexander Arbuthnott,) was noted " for his pious and religious life, his great painfulness in his calling, his learning and charitable work ; for he was instrumental, and contributed liberal- ly for building an edifice for training of youth, and mortified con^ siderable sums of money for maintenance of a schoolmaster and the poor of the parish ; and also bequeathed his books to the Aisle of Arbuthnott, worth more than a thousand merks, for the use of his successors, incumbents in that place." Of these books not a fragment now remains. They appear to have been all carried off upwards of fifty years ago. Land'Oivners. — The land-owners are. Viscount Arbuthnott; Vis- countess Keith ; Robert Barclay AUardyce, Esq. of Ury and Al- lardyce ; John Gordon, Esq. W. S. Edinburgh ; and George Far- quhar Kinloch, Esq. of Kair. Parochial Registers, — The oldest date of these is 1630 ; from ^ which period they are complete. Antiquities — The most ancient buildings in the parish are, the House of AUardyce, which was for a long period the residence of the ancient family of AUardyce, now represented by Robert Barclay AUardyce, Esq. of Ury, but it is now a ruin : the parish church ; and an aisle attached to it on the south-east, in which is the burying-ground of the Arbuthnott family. This aisle was rebuilt by Sir Robert Arbuthnott of that Ilk, in 1505, of finely hewn ashlar. The entrance is on the west side by an arched door. On the south side are four buttresses of carved stone work ; but the ravages of the weather have greatly injured the beauty of the workmanship, particularly on the south- west part of the building. The lower part, which is arched, was originally dedicated as a chapel to the Virgin Mary : and the up- per, which is accessible by a narrow winding stair in a round tower 160 KINCAEDINBSHIRE. on the north-west corner, was intended to be a sleeping chamber for the priest who officiated at her altar. Sir Robert also assigned for his use, a house, garden, and croft of land, near the church of 5t Ternan of Arbuthnott, along with an annual stipend of 14^ merk In the lower part of the aisle, in the burying- ground, there is an ancient full-length stone statue of Hugh de Arbuthnott (wbo is distinguished in the old charters, from two predecessors of die t same name, by the surname of Blundus, or Le Blond,) in aredin- ing posture, with the face looking upwards, and the feet resting o& the 6gure of a dog. His own and his lady's arms, which are the same with those of the once powerful family of the Morevilles, Con- stables of Scotland, are cut on the stone on which the statue Iie& Hugh Le Blond died before the end of the twelfth century. Ancient Manuscripts. — The psalter and oflSce used in the chapel of the Virgin Mary, and the missal used in the Church of St Ternan, are in the library of Arbuthnott House, in excelleDt preservation. The penmanship in all of them is remarkably beau- tiful and regular; and, in the Virgin's Service- Book, and the Missal, the margins and the initial letters are in many places splendidly illuminated. The psalter, written by James Sybbalde, chaplain of St Ter- nan, at the desire of Sir Robert Arbuthnott, was finished 4th March 1482, and presented in 1506 to the chapel of the Vii^in by the same Sir Robert, its founder. The office of the Virgin, which, like the psalter, is a 4to, and by the same pen, contains the following illuminated drawings. 1. St Ternan in his robes. 2. The salutation by the Angel. 3. The Virgin and her child. 4. The rich man and Lazarus in Hades. 5. The Crucifixion. 6. The Sacrament of the Supper. At the end there is an obituary of the Arbuthnotts from 1314 to 1507 ; followed by a notice of the death of James Sybbalde, " vicarius de Arbuthnott, scriba publicus correctissimus, testanti- bus missalibus hujus ecclesia; sancti Terrenani, multisque aliis voluminibus per eum scriptis." He died 11th September 1507. The Missal, which was also written by him, is a folio of the largest size, and likewise contains a drawing of St Ternan. It is in its original oaken boards^ covered with leather, and fastened with a brass clasp. On the farm of Laes, earthen vases, of coarse materials, and rude workmanship, have been dug up occasionally from some gravel hillocks ; and a few years ago, when a small cairn was removed 4 ARBUTHNOTT. 161 from the farm of Craighill, a similar one was found, containing ashes ; but it was broken accidentally by the blow of a pick-axe. Near the Hogs-hole, from which the large deer horns, already noticed, were dug up, a stone hatchet, and the metal head of a battle-axe, were found. The head of a smaller battle-axe was thrown up about two years ago, in digging a drain on the farm of Town head. It appears to be composed of a mixture of copper and tin, and weighs 8^ oz Avoirdupois. Proprietors^ Residences. — Arbuthnott House. The lawn and the approach have been greatly improved and beautified by the pre- sent Viscount. The new approach is connected with the mansion by a stone bridge of- the finest architecture, thrown across the deep hollow on the east side of the house in 1821. The house of Kair is quite a modern mansion, of considerable beauty. UL — Population. This parish has always been wholly agricultural, and the popu- lation does not appear to have been at any time very difierent in point of number from what it is at present. Mak$. Female*, Total, PopulaUonin 1811, . 453 . 515 . 968 1821, . 452 . 476 . 928 laOI, . 452 . 492 . 944 For twenty years previous to 1831, the male population was constant, though the female varied considerably. Average for seven years of the number of persons under 15, . 384 between 15 and 30, 243 30 and 50, 205 50 and 70, 116 above 70, 87 Illegitimate birtbs in the course of the last three years, . . 9 Number of families in the parish, ..... 191 chiefly employed in agriculture, . • .120 in trade, manufiictures, or handicraft, . 33 The Viscount Arbuthnott is the only resident proprietor. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Land in tillage, . . . 6200 imperial acres, uncultivated, . * 2223 which might be cultivated with profit, 750 undivided common, . . under wood, planted . . 250 94^ The kinds of wood planted are, the Scotch fir, larch, spnice, silver fir, oak, ash, elm, plane, beech, chestnut, limej birch, wil- low, poplar, hazel, and holly. Above twenty different species of oaks, chiefly American, have been introduced into the nursery by KINCARDNE. L riKim rent t'ri-i niar lauplit.- ■ by tlic fi'ns wl tHiJirter, sell' last taiiglit-- of the licriti . itoiie diiriiif: dren arc in-' tliroiiglioiii tlirouglioiii have rcceiv proficien(\ daj'sscli' scWliirs Ji irideil for rtieir re?! and fiftv. arc, it i- pcojile, I iTiaWo {ii- Bcliool. tlioir 111' tics all' JAhr tliuin I book> It Ci>' titlior I and CI by oi vohti! ARBUTHNOTT. 163 I: Rental. — The real rental of the parish is about L.6200 a- '" Plantations. — Most of the plantations in the parish belong to " Viscount Arbuthnott ; but as they have been formed chiefly by the ^^ present proprietor, they are immature. The finest old wood is '-' that around the House of Arbuthnott ; and it is seldom profaned * by the axe. There is some fine old wood at Allardyce, though .' of small extent ; and some thriving plantations around Kair. ' V. — Parochial Economy. I Market' Totim, Post^Office^ Sfc, — The nearest post-office is in the burgh of Bervie^ which is the nearest market-town ; and is about V 2^ miles distant from the church of Arbuthnott. The great road I leading through Stonehaven and Laurencekirk passes through I the northern part of the parish for two miles and a half. An excellent road has been lately made through the lower part of the parish, extending from the bridge of Bervie, which forms its eastern extremity, to the bridge of Whiteriggs, which is the western ; a distance of five miles. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated a little way from the north bank of the Bervie. It is about three miles distant from the farthest extremity of the parish. The date of its erection is not known. In 1505 Sir Robert Arbuthnott repaired and im- proved the west gable, erecting on it a round tower, to which he presented two bells. The joining of the earlier and later work- manship is still apparent in the building : so that the church is not less than 333 years old, and is probably upwards of 400. It is at present in a pretty good state of repair, and affords accom- modation for 440 persons, allowing 16 inches for each sitting, exclusive of seats for the kirk-session. The seats are all free. The manse was built at different periods, and is now greatly in need of repair. The glebe is small, and of little value. The stipend consists of the following items : 12 bolls of wheat ; 108 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks, 2^ lippies of meal : 48 bolls, 3 firlots of bear ; and L. 8.5, 12s. lOd. of money. The teinds are exhausted. There is no chapel of ease. Government church, missionary, dis- senting chapel, or meeting-house in the parish. The average number of communicants at the Established Church is 450. Divine service is well and decently attended. The schoolmaster cate- chises the young in his school twice a*week : and the minister attends to the religious instruction of the older members of his congregation.* There are four families of Episcopalians, and four 164 KINCAUDINESHIRK. of Dissenters in the parish : but of these some members attend the parish church, and others the chapel, or the meeting-house. Education. — There is one parochial school, the master of which has the maximum salary, the legal accommodation, and the school fees, which may amount to L. 8 per annum.* There are also four unendowed schools. A few persons in the parish cannot write : but all can read more or less perfectly. No additional schools are required. Savings Bank. — A savings bank was established in June 182:2, in which the deposits have been gradually increasing. The an- nual deposits amount to about L. 50 ; and the suais annually with- drawn to about L. 20. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The number of persons receiving regular parochial aid is Id, and the average sum allotted to each is L. 2, lis. 6d per annum. The present expenditure is much greater than usual, as the poor's fund has three fatuous persons to support, at an expense of L. 20, 16s. 8d. per annum. The yearly amount of collections for the poor is L.28; the annual in- terest of mortifications, L. 4, 12s. ; interest of money, L. 3, 7s. 6d. ; which, with occasional donations from heritors and other private Individuals, may amount to L. 39, 4s. 6d. per annum. Kinloch^s Fund. — In 1812, the sum of L. 2700 was bequeath- ed by William Kinloch, Esq. of Calcutta, to be lodged in the funds, and the annual interest to be divided quarterly among the native poor of the parish of Arbuthnott, at the discretion of the kirk-session, who are empowered, by the deed of bequest, to receive the claims of the several applicants, and aid them as they shall see cause. The number of claimants at present on the roll is 77, of whom 25 are parochial, but do not receive aid from the proper parish fund for the maintenance of the poor ; and 52 are ex-pa- rochial. As the annual interest of the money in the funds is L. 120, the average amount of aid to every applicant is L. 1, 1 1$. 2d. per annum. Inns. — There are 5 inns or alehouses ; and that number might be reduced with benefit to the morals of the people. Fuel. — The fuel used is chiefly coal, which is commonly sold at Is. Id., or Is. 2d. per barrel at Gourdon, in the parish of Bervie, which is the nearest sea-port. Turf is used in part by the lower classes. April 1838. * To a poor labourer with a numerous family the fees are reduce cl» by charffiDff him for one scholar less than the number sent to school. PARISH OF GLENBERVIE. PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. JAMES DRUMiMOND, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Boundaries^ 8fc. — The parish of Glenbeme, anciently Over- bervie, is situated nearly in the centre of the Mearns, — bounded on the west, by the water of Bervie and Fordoun ; on the east, by Dunnottar and Fetteresso ; on the south and south-east, by Ar- buthnott ; and on the north, by the hills of Strachan and Durris* It reaches 6^ miles from north to south, and 5 from east to^ west Topographical Appearances. — It may be divided into three dis- tricts. That which lies along the water of Bervie is separated from the middle district by a sort of ravine, and consists of kindly productive early soil, is diversified by sloping banks and swelling grounds, and though but ill clothed with wood, and almost desti- tute of hedge or hedge-row, shelter or screen, is not unpleasing to the view. That part of this district which joins Arbuthnott on the south- east is bounded by a sand-bank, provincially called the Kamesj rising abruptly from the level on both sides, as if it had been cast up by human art, — though from the regular strata it contains, it has obviously been the efiFect of some water-course ; yet the similar acclivity of each side might incline one to suppose that some con- vulsion had aided in throwing up the girdling mound. Soil. — The middle district contains two very different qualities of soil. Its western division is considerably elevated, bleak in ap- pearance, little cultivated, almost neglected. Its eastern division, though also high and exposed, is fertile, fast improving, and a great part under good husbandry. The northern district, which lies along a low ridge of the Gram- pians, is generally under the plough. The soil is colder and more tenacious than that of the south, while its lateness and want of en- closures give it an unfavourable appearance. lliere is still a small district included in the parish, which lies farther north, on the water of Cowie. It is separated from the rcL ^xaer. 3 ae ir" ,3C:i3i» uvs -izzna;. n 1m **'. ABBUTHKOn. Pavid Sibbatd, having been precq«rk#* son of diaries L, was impiwoedBl^* to the ro^al cause, and had hii cMc H^ ever, to see the restoratioD, ini Wi**^ James Sibbald, D. Q II been the son of this Dr Utiii SWi^ John Arbuthnotl of MbiidjML ftV* laid down his cba^ ud ltd mBA^ tor of a congregatioD.bseHMk'P''' try. His brother, Jobs SMimm^ decessor of Alexuider ilililbaC*^ religious life, his gml fHAtei"* . charitable work ; fur it wiiM^* *^^ \y for building mdifa fcwir'j'* ^^ siderable nims of BtwrifM^* *^^ the poor of the prnt; wUti^'^^Z of ArbuthooU, mA wmttt*^^ his ■uceeMD, aaikmkitp'^^^ fiBgnwDt now rndk fc^*^^^ UpWMds of % JMI^ , & countess Keilli ; fiici^^^V^ lardyce; Job ft* i^^^"*^^ quhar KiulM:Ii,£^«'j( , *biob pwiu) tj^ g^ HmiM oUfUi I*- *"• ^~ cf ibo aiHSaffc-/^'^^* ^^^ fi»rtl4j .IJiir. - ** * -"• chtird) : Ml • ' ' '•^••■(k il thft bi^^ 111*..- Uil I ibund, containing low of a pick~axe. eer boms, already ne metal bead of a ^^p Jler battle-axe was ^^( irain on the farm of '^jf listure of copper and ^ Be. The lawn and the ^ beautified by the pre- ^ jected with the mansion g ture, thrown across the ^ ie in 1821. The house onsiderabte beauty. lOH. agricultural, and the popu- t sny time very different in 1, the male population wa-s Dfliderably. ibaturei, or handicrnft, , esident proprietor. deolfih fir, larch, spruce, /'^ilfCDXA^ lime, birch, wil- ly different species of into the nursery by 160 KINCARDINESHIRE. on the north-west corner, was intended to be a sleeping* chamber for the priest who officiated at her altar. Sir Robert also assigned for his use, a house, garden, and croft of land, near the church of St Ternan of Arbuthnott, along with an annual stipend of 14^ merks. In the lower part of the aisle, in the burying ground, there is an ancient full-length stone statue of Hugh de Arbuthnott (who is distinguished in the old charters, from two predecessors of the same name, by the surname of Blundus, or Le Blond,) in a reclin- ing posture, with the face looking upwards, and the feet resting on the 6gure of a dog. His own and his lady's arms, which are the same with those of the once powerful family of the Morevilles, Con- stables of Scotland, are cut on the stone on which the statue lies. Hugh Le Blond died before the end of the twelfth century* Ancient Manuscripts. — The psalter and office used in the chapel of the Virgin Mary, and the missal used in the Church of St Ternan, are in the library of Arbuthnott House, in excellent preservation. The penmanship in all of them is remarkably beau- tiful and regular; and, in the Virgin's Service- Book, and the Missal, the margins and the initial letters are in many places splendidly illuminated. The psalter, written by James Sybbalde, chaplain of St Ter- nan, at the desire of Sir Robert Arbuthnott, was finished 4th March 1482, and presented in 1506 to the chapel of the Virgin by the same Sir Robert, its founder. The office of the Virgin, which, like the psalter, is a 4to, and by the same pen, contains the following illuminated drawings. 1. St Ternan in his robes. 2. The salutation by the Angel. 3. The Virgin and her child. 4. The rich man and Lazarus in Hades. 5. The Crucifixion. 6. The Sacrament of the Supper. At the end there is an obituary of the Arbuthnotts from 1314 to 1507 ; followed by a notice of the death of James Sybbalde, ** vicarius de Arbuthnott, scriba publicus correctissimus, testanti- bus mi^salibus hujus ecclesia; sancti Terrenani, multisque aliis voluminibus per eum scriptis.'* He died 11th September 1507. The Missal, which was also written by him, is a folio of the largest size, and likewise contains a drawing of St Ternan. It is in its original oaken boards^ covered with leather, and fastened witli a brass clasp. On the farm of Laes, earthen vases, of coarse materials, and rude workmanship, have been dug up occasionally from some gravel hillocks ; and a few years ago, when a small cairn was removed 4 ARBUTHNOTT. 161 from the farm of Craighill, a similar one was found, containing ashes ; but it was broken accidentally by the blow of a pick-axe. Near the Hogs-hole, from which the large deer horns, already noticed, were dug up, a stone hatchet, and the metal head of a battle-axe, were found. The head of a smaller battle-axe was thrown up about two years ago, in digging a drain on the farm of Townhead. It appears to be composed of a mixture of copper and tin, and weighs 8^ oz Avoirdupois. Proprietors^ Residences, — Arbuthnott House. The lawn and the approach have been greatly improved and beautified by the pre- sent Viscount. The new approach is connected with the mansion by a stone bridge of the finest architecture, thrown across the deep hollow on the east side of the house in 1821. The house of Kair is quite a modern mansion, of considerable beauty. IIL — Population. This parish has always been wholly agricultural, and the popu- lation does not appear to have been at any time very different in point of number from what it is at present. MaUi. Females, Total. Population in 1811, . 453 . 515 . 968 1821, . 452 . 476 . 928 1831, . 452 . 492 . 944 For twenty years previous to 1831, the male population was constant, though the female varied considerably. Average for seven years of the number of persons under 15, 334 between 15 and 30, 243 30 and 50, 205 50 and 70, 116 above 70, . . 87 Illegitimate births in the course of the last three years, . . 9 Number of families in the parish, ..... 191 chiefly employed in agriculture, . • .120 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, . 33 The Viscount Arbuthnott is the only resident proprietor. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Land in tillage, . . . 6200 imperial acres, uncultivated, . * 2223 which might be cultivated with profit, 750 undivided common, . under wood, planted . . 250 9423 The kinds of wood planted are, the Scotch fir, larch, spnice, silver fir, oak, ash, elm, plane, beech, chestnut, limei birch, wil- low, poplar, hazel, and holly. Above twenty different species of oaks, chiefly American, have been introduced into the nursery by KINCARDNE. L 168 KINCARDINESHIRE. glebe, including garden and pasture, is nearly six acres Scots. The stipend, with communion allowance, is L. 170, and 76 bolls 3 fir- lots meal and bear. There is an Episcopalian chapel in the village of Drumlithie. The number of adherents of all ages belonging to this parish is 70. With the exception of two Seceders, the rest are of the Es- tablished Church. The number of communicants averages 680. The amount of collections throughout the year for the support of the poor is L. 42. There is a collection once a year in aid of the Infirmary of Aberdeen, which usually amounts to L. 7. Except- ing this, there is seldom a collection made but for the poor of the parish. Education, — Besides the parochial school there are three private schools. The branches taught are, English, Latin, writing, arith- metic, elements of mathematics, &c. Two of the private teachers, in addition to their fees, have a salary each of L. 5 allowed by the respective heritors, on whose lands the schools are built. The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of L. 30, and L. 2, 2s. in lieu of garden ground. His accommodation is now ample. The school- fees vary from 2s. to 5s. quarterly, according to the branches re- quired^ and may amount to L. 15 per annum. There is perhaps not an individual in the parish above the age of ten who cannot read ; and the rising generation are in the course of being taught to write. Friendly Societies. — There are two Friendly Societies in the pa- rish, but their advantages are not much to be reckoned. They are about to be dissolved. Savings Bank. — There is a Savings bank ; but since the rate of interest was reduced, it has made little progress. It is, how- ever, an obvious benefit to servants, who are principally the depo- sitors. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor receiving pa- rochial aid is 40. The funds for their relief are derived from the stated Sunday collections, from the interest of L. 200, from casual donations, from mortcloth-dues, &c Of the poor some receive but a few shillings yearly, and others from L. I to L. 2, lOs. ; some, a moiety in aid of their house rent; and all, a pittance in name of coal money, the proceeds of an extra collection in the beginning of the year. Fairs. — There is one annual fair held in October for the sale of cattle. GLENBERVIE. 169 Alehouses, — There are five public-houses and one spirit-shop in the parish, all on a very small scale. Fuel. — The fuel of the lower district consists chiefly of English coals imported to Stonehaven. Those in the upper district use peats got from the hills in their vicinity. The expense of a barrel of coals at the sea-port is Is. dd., nine of which make a cart load. The carriage of the load is from 3s. to 3s. 6d., according to dis- tance. ThQ expense of a cart-load of peats, casting and drying, is Is. 3d. Miscellaneous Observations. The condition of the inhabitants does not differ in general from that of those in the neighbouring parishes. The farmer, though far from opulent, enjoys a moderate share of the comforts of life, and the servant has a fair allowance for the wages of his toil. Both these classes have progressed much within the last forty years. Not so, however, the manufacturing population. These have not risen in the scale within the same period. They are dependent, almost to helplessness, on the great manufacturers. In other days,' the wea- ver was the owner of the web he wove ; and it was his custom to carry it to market, whence he brought back its value, to purchase more materials for farther operations, gratified with the reflection, that he had something at stake in the interests of the community, and that his condition was far above that of the mere hireling. In other respects, since the period of the last Statistical Account, the circumstances of the parish have improved astonishingly. The rental has increased more than fourfold, not from the comparative- ly higher prices of the productions, but from the greater produc- tiveness of the soil. The cultivation of the soil is better under- stood, the rotation of cropping more judiciously followed, and the business of the farm more actively pursued. At that time, there was not one thrashing-machine in the parish ; there are now six- teen. There were then about fifty awkward ploughs; there are now above seventy scientifically constructed, and of the most effec- tive description ; and every other implement of husbandry evinces a knowledge far advanced in the arts of life. Much, however, yet remains to be done in the improvement of waste lands ; and it is to be hoped, that, in this respect, something will be done ere long. 1838. PARISH OF DURRIS. PHBSBYTERY OF ABERDEEN, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. ROBERT COPLAND, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The ancient name of the parish, according to the ge- nerally received accounts, was Dtiires ; it is now written Durris, and sometimes pronounced Dores. The ancient name signifies, in Graelic, a mouth or entrance, probably from the parish being a principal entrance into the Highlands. Extenty Sfc. — The parish extends from east to west about 5^ miles along the south bank of the river Dee, which is its northern boundary. On the south, it is bounded by the Grampian moun* tains. Topographical AppearancesySf'c. — Its figure resembles an oblong ; but the length on the south side is at least seven miles ; the mean breadth about three and three-fourth miles. The appearance of the surface is very irregular. On the river side, there are conside- rable fields of haugh land, quite level ; some of it being very produc- tive, and some light and sandy. Several acclivities or small hilb then intervene and intercept the prospect, so that the half of the parish is not visible from any one point in it. The highest hill in the parish is Cairnmonearn, one of the Grampians, elevated about 1200 feet above the level of the sea ; but several others, as Min- dernal, Mountgower, and Craigbeg, are nearly of the same height. The temperature of the atmosphere is exceedingly various ; the cold, in some seasons, being much more intense than in others ; and the heat in summer, especially on the river side, very great, arising in some degree from the gravelly nature of the soil. Hydrography. — There are several small rivulets in the parish, but none deserving notice except the Shiach Burn, which often sends down a great body of water from the Grampians, and after a course of the greatest rapidity for about twelve miles, falls into the Dee at the church of Durris. A number of chalybeate springs are found in different parts of the parish, of various degrees of DtJimis; -' 171 strength ; and near the top of one of the hills, there is a medici* nal spring called Red- Beard's Well, from an old tradition, that a certain freebooter called Red-Beard, lived in a cave near this well, in the times of black mail. This water has never been analysed ; but it is said to contain neutral salts, and in many of its proper^ ties to resemble the Harrowgate water. It is difficult to obtain the water in a pure state, the spring being surrounded with reeds and decayed vegetable matter, and rills of water often falling in- to it Mineralogy. — Throughout the whole extent of the parish, there are immense masses of stone (gneiss;) but Caimmonearn and some of the other hills afford the finest granite and whinstone- The quantity of both appears to be inexhaustible. From the sides of these hills the naked rocks often show themselves; but they are generally covered with two or three feet of moss and heath ; and in the hollows at the foot of the hills, the depth of moss is very considerable, affording peats and fuel of the best descrip- tion. The soil in the lower ground is, in general, a loam, very fertile with good management ; but clay and gravelly soils are like- wise found. In most of the varieties of soil under cultivation, the enormous masses of stone (gneiss) would attract the notice of a stranger ; and would deter an agriculturist from settling here, who had been accustomed to the smooth fields of the southern counties. But custom has brought both men and horses to plough round these rocks, with -the greatest ease; and it is generally observed, that the soil is superior where these rocks abound most There are here several large plantations of Scotch fir and larch in a thriving state, where the subsoil is not retentive of water ; and hard-wood, such as beech, ash, and elm, grow well where the soil is congenial. II. — Civil History. The estate of Durris comprehends this whole parish, and a con^^^ siderable part of the adjoining parish of Banchory Teman. This large property has passed from several owners, in the course of a few years. It formerly belonged to Lord Peterborough ; afterwards the whole estate was held in lease from him, by the late John Innes^ Esq. of Leuchars, near Elgin. On the reduction of this lease b^ ibe^ Supreme Court, the estate came into'possession of the late Duke of Gordon in 1824, as next heir of entail ; and under authority of an act of Parliament, transferring the entail to other lands, the estate was purchased from the Duke of Gordon last year, by An- 1 72 KINCARDINESHIRE. thony Mactier, Esq., late of Calcutta. The proprietor is patron of the parish church. Parochial Registers. — The parochial register of baptisms be- gins at the year 1717, as does also the register of discipline : and for upwards of forty years, the registers of baptisms, marriages, and deaths appear to have been accurately kept.* There is also a separate register kept for the annual distribution of a mortification to certain poor and to other purposes, left by a native of this pa- rish of the name of Hog, in the year 1787, under the management of the kirk-session, which will be noticed more particularly under another head. Antiquities. — The parish cannot boast of many antiquities of great interest There are, however, several tumuli or cairos of stones, now partly overgrown with heath and whins. About six years ago, a farmer, in trenching out the foundations of some old houses and dikes on his farm, found a number of small copper and silver coins, but none of them in a state of good preservation. From their appearance they were supposed to be Danish. It may here be mentioned, that after the great flood in 1829, the writer of this account, in taking away a large round cairn of stones for the purpose of preventing the encroachments of the River Dee, found, when the stones were removed, that they had merely covered a hillock of earth of exactly the same shape, and evidently artificial. His curiosity was excited to know the con- tents of this hillock ; and on breaking it up, some bones, partly burnt, were found, and a number of sharp flint stones of different sizes. The hillock has very lately been more particularly examin- ed ; and at the depth of three feet under the surface of the ad- joining field, a large trench or grave, upwards of seven feet long, built with stones on the sides, and covered above with three very large stones, was discovered. It contained human bones mixed with charcoal ; and it was observed, that part of a skull, contrary to the usual mode of interment, was placed at the east end of the grave. Immediately overhanging a pretty steep bank of the River Dee, and about a quarter of a mile below the church, is a small hill, called the Castle Hill. It has a ditch at the bottom, and is com- monly supposed to have been a place of strength, or military posi- tion. A small rill of water runs close past its base, which could easily have been made to fill the ditch. And on the top, which is quite level, several small hollows or cuts are yet to be seen, which 3 DUKRIS. 173 tradition reports were the places from which the artillery was fired* Perhaps the hill may have been converted into this purpose, from being originally a dun or lawy that is, a place for administering justice in ancient times ; many others of a similar description being found in different parts of the country. Several Druidical temples are also to be met with in the parish, but none in a perfect state. Modem Buildings. — The only modern building deserving of notice, is the mansion-house of Durris, built by John Innes, Esq. lessee of the whole estate. This building is connected with the ancient mansion-house by an extensive colonnade ; and both have now undergone extensive repairs and additions by the present pro- prietor. There is no place of worship in the parish except the parish church, built in 1822. The parish formerly was a chapelry belonging to the Knights Templars, or some other very ancient Popish order. The date on a part of the old church still remain- . ing, is 1537. III. — Population. Amount of population in 1 HO I, • 605 1811, . 724 1821, . 945 1831, . 1035 Number of &milics in the parish, ..... 213 chiefly employed in agriculture, - • • 140 trade, manufactures or handicraft, 55 Illegitimate births in the course of the last three years, - - 8 From the benevolence and liberality of the late Duke of Gor- don, under whose leases the whole parish is at present occupied, the people are able to enjoy, in a moderate degree, the comforts and advantages of society ; and are, in general, contented with their situation. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The number of imperial acres under tillage is nearly 4000 ; 1000 and upwards are in plantations, and perhaps 10,000 in pasture, mosses, moors, and hills; but of this, more than 1000 acres are fit to be improved and could be brought under cultivation, at a moderate expense ; and a great deal of it would be as productive as some now under the plough. Rent. — The average rent of arable land per acre is somewhat under L. ]. The average rent of grazing an ox or cow is about L. 1 for the summer or grass season, and about L. 1, 10s. for the winter ; the k^ep of a sheep, about 2s. 6d. a-year. Live Stock. — The common breed of sheep is the black-feced ; and of cattle, the hummel or dodded. The colour preferred is black, dun, or branded. Some, however, have lately introduced the Ayr- 174 KINCARDINESHIRE. .sbiie breed ; but whether that will be more advantageous than ^ the other kinds, is not yet ascertained. Husbandry. — The farms are partly under a fifth, and partly under a seventh shift rotation. In case of the former, two-fifths of the arable land are under grain crop ; one-fifth under green crop, viz. turnips and potatoes ; one-fifth in hay, and one fifth in pasture grass. In case of the latter, three-sevenths are. in grain crop ; one5 210 '^ KINCAUUINESHIRE. V. — Parochial Economy. Marhet^Town^ 8fc. — The nearest market-town is Aberdeen. There are two bridges over the river Dee, in this parish, viz. th* old Bridge of Dee, of seven arches, built by Bishop Duobar, three hundred years ago, and a suspension- bridge about a mile below, nearer Aberdeen, called Wellington Bridge, erected in 1829 at the sole expense of the heritors. _ Ecclesiastical State . — The old church (which was situated in the north-east extremity of the parish) having fallen into decay, a new one was erected by the heritors in a centrical situation, in the year 1829, the distance of which from aiiy part of the parish is not more than two miles and a half. It is a handsome church, with a square tower for a bell and clock, built on an eminence, and seen at a great distance. It cost L. 1800. The Crown is patron. It affords accommodation for 900 sitters, — a larger number than usually resorts to it. It was built with a view to the increased po- pulation of the parish, which it was supposed would take place in consequence of the suspQj^sion-bndge across the Dee ; but that in- crease of population has not yet been so great as was expected. The manse was built in 1759. It has frequently been repair- ed and enlarged. It is two miles from the new church. The extent of the present glebe is about ten acres of ground, as good as any in the parish, and of the value of L. 5 per acre. Some acres of the glebe being marshy, and often covered with water, were drained and very much improved, at considerable expense, by my predecessor, Dr Cruden, who lived for forty years after, \o enjoy the profit of his improvements, and left the glebe in a high state of cultivation to his successor. The stipend being one of the small livings of the church, is made up to L. 150 by the aug- mentation of L. 67, 16s. 6d. yearly from the Exchequer. There are no chapels of ease, nor any Dissenting meeting-houses in this parish, and very few Dissenters of any kind. Divine ser- vice at the Established Church is generally well attended. The average number of communicants is 60;J. There are not more than two or three Dissenting families in the parish. Education. — There are four schools in the parish. — 1. Paro- chial school. The schoolmaster has the medium salary, a pretty good house, and small garden. Amount of school fees about L.20 ; emolument from session clerk's fees and perquisites, L. 6. — 2. School at Cove. The schoolmaster has a small house and gar- MGO. 211 den, with a small salary arising from the interest of money be- * queathed by Dr Cruden and others, amounting to about L. 6 per annum, besides school-fees, amounting to about L. 15 per annum. — 3. School at Charlestown. The schoolmaster has a small house and garden, with school-fees amounting to about L. 12. For two years past, he has received each year L. 5, a donation from the Trustees of the late Mr Donaldson ; but it is uncertain whether or not this will be continued. — 4. There is another sehool in Ter- ry. The schoolmaster has no free school-house, and no salary. He depends for his Uving upon the small school-fees. A few scholars are taught to read, by women, without any sa- lary ; one in Torry, and another in Cove. There are very few persons betwixt six and fifteen years of age, or above it, that cannot read or write. The people in general are alive to the benefits of education ; but among the white-fishermen and others, there are some so poor as to be unable, however wil- ling, to give their children the necessary education. The session pay for some poor scholars, from the ^interest of small sums be- queathed for that purpose, and recommend others to be taught gratis^ which is readily done by all the teachers. There is no part of the parish so distant from school as to pre- vent attendance of the children. Those in the Bridge of Dee and Legart district have to go more than two miles to any school in the parish, and a school there would be of very great service. Friendly Societies, — The Friendly Societies in Torry and the Cove, began in the year 1772, it was found necessary, some years ago, with the consent of all parties concerned, to dissolve. There are still two deposit Societies at the Cove. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is 57 : the average allowance per annum a little more than L.l, 10s. Average amount of collections at the church for the poor, L.5d, 19s. ; donations, penalties, mort- cloths, &c. L.d3, Os. 5d. ; interest qi money left, L.29, 13s. 5d. The average expenses are L. 11, 12.s. viz., for the session-clerk's fee, the precentor's and officer's salary, &c. Mr James Calder, la^e merchant in Aberdeen, gave L.500 to the poor of the parish. Some of the heritors give an annual do- nation for the same purpose; and several sums have been be- queathed by others. Inns find Public* Houses. — There are about ten or twelve pu6- lic-houses in the parish, one-half of which would be sufficient. 2i2 KINCARDINESHIRE* Fuel. — Peats and turf are used a good deal in country houses, and by the white-fishermen in Cove and Burnbanks for smoking and curing Finnan haddocks ; the turf being procured from the mosses belonging to Mr Menzies and others, in the upper part of the parish, and in Nether Banchory. But many use coals, par- ticularly in Torry and neighbourhood. Bevised 1838. PARISH OF DUNNOTTAR.* PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MBARNS. THE REV. ALEXANDER IRVINE, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History Name. — Dunnoitar, •nciently spelt Dunotyr^ is said to be .t compound Gaelic word signifying a place of strength on a penin- sular promontory. Such was the Castle of Dunnottar, within the walls of which formerly stood the parish church. Extent^ (Jc — Tlie^irea of the parish is an irregular three-sided figure. The eastern side runs from Stonehaven, southward alom^ the coast, to and inclusive of the fishing village of Crawton, a dis- tance of about five miles. From Crawton, the boundary runs about five miles north-westward, in a zigzagline, abutting first on the parish of Kinneff, and then on the parish of Glenbervie, pas- sing with tlie latter over Carmount moor, to the summit of Car- mount hill, and thence descending into Carron Water, at the base of that hill, where Dunnottar and Glenbervie are met bv the parish of Fetteresso. On the northern side, the Carron, wind- ing a course of about five miles, from where it leaves the territoiy of Glenbervie, till it enters the sea at Stonehaven, forms, with some small exceptions, the boundary with Fetteresso. Accordino- to a map of Kincardineshire, by Mr Francis Garden, in 1744, the parish contains 8156 " English acres," or nearly 13 square miles. Topographical Appearances. — The seaward boundary of this parish is a continuous chain of rocks, consisting partly of detached masses and bluff headlands, but chiefly of a range of cliffs rising' • Drawn up by Peter Christian, Esq. Writer, Stonehaven. DUNNOTTAR. 213 perpend icularly, from 150 to between 200 and 300 feet out of the deep water washing their base. The height of the cliffs, the fantastic forms of the huge insulated masses, and the great disruption appearing throughout, have rendered the Dunnot- tar shore one of the most romantic on the east coast, as it is to the land-locked mariner, in easterly storms, one of the most hope- less. Its inhospitable aspect is here and there softened by reced- ing coves or little bays, accessible from the land by grassy slopes, but fenced by sunken rocks against approach from the sea. In several places, large caverns are hollowed in the cliffs, most of them terminating under ground, but some passing from side to side of projecting rocks. Of these, a remarkable one, named the Long Gallery^ runs under a high promontory, from one bay to another, a distance of more than 150 yards. This singular ca- vern, or marine arcade, formed in the solid rock, admits the pas- sage of an ordinary sized boat, and the navigation of it is seldom omitted by boatmen conducting parties of pleasure. South of this, about a mile of uninterrupted cliff, the very highest of all the range, has the name of Fowhheughi well known as the hatching place of myriads of sea-fowl of various descriptions,|whose nests oc- cupy and whiten the whole face of that extensive portion of the rock. The privilege of taking eggs and birds from this place is let to a tenant, who, for the purpose of collecting them, suffers himself to be lowered by a rope from ** the dreadful summit of the cliff, That beetles o'er his base into the sea.'* From this dangerous employment no accident is known to have ever happened, although a few years ago, the malicious act of cutting the rope nearly through, was perpetrated over night, but discover- ed in the morning just in time to save the climber from destruc- tion. From the height of the coast, and the ascent of the land towards the interior, the area of the parish is, generally speaking, of considerable altitude. Of the cultivated land the more elevat* ed part is towards the south and west. In that quarter, the ascent is gradual from the sea cliff to the moor of Carmount, a level heath of between 400 and 500 acres. At the further extremity of that waste, Carmount hill rises probably 800 feet above the level of the sea. Again, from the sea-coast, a short way north of Crawton village, the land, in its ascent, assumes the shape of suc- cessive ridges or knolls, which, sweeping north-westward for aboi.t three miles, fall in with the low hills of Glaslaw and Touchs ; and 214 KINCARDINESHIRE. these contiDuing the sweep to the bank of the Carron, are follow- ed 00 the other side of that stream by corresponding eminences in the parish of Fetteresso, which again sweep round to the Gamm, the north headland of Stonehaven bay. In this manner, are em- bosomed, in the two parishes, eight or nine square miles of highly cultivated land, sloping towards the centre, and embellished with plantations, gentlemen's seats, and cheerful villas. On a plane nearly on a level with the sea, and intersected by the Carron and the Ck)wie, stands the town of old and new Stonehaven, where these streams unite and fall into the ocean. The scene thus im- perfectly described comprehends the venerable ruins of Dunnot- tar Castle, the two parish churches with their manses, and other picturesque objects, and forms with the wide and deeply indented bay of Stonehaven, its bold headlands of Doumie and GarrotL, and its margin of pebbly beach, along which the town ranges, an attractive and generally admired landscape. On the further side of the hill of Toucks, lies the district of Auquhiriej sloping to- wards the Carron, and forming with the Brae of Fetteresso^ an- other valley well cultivated and diversi6ed with neat farms and ex- tensive plantations. The only other topographical appearance proper to be noticed, is a deep ravine cutting the high bank of the Carron, close by Stonehaven. This is the outlet of a hollow which divides the parish from south to north, corresponding with and forming the northern extremity of the valley of Strath more. Climate. — From proximity to the coast, Dunnottar, in common with similar localities, is exempt from very rigorous winters, but is subject iu spring to fogs and gales from the sea, which frequently prove hurtful to vegetation. The following table, constructed from a register kept at Stonehaven, exhibits, for the last three years, the number of days in each month on which the wind blew from different quarters ; the highest and lowest monthly tempera- ture, indicated by a thermometer exposed to the north, and the greatest monthly height and depression of the barometer, at about 25 feet above the level of the sea. DUNNOTTAH. i 1 ^»a^«l-I siSi^li^^is^^ ■«»48!H 1 ■jM*on 2?i3asgS5»«aa ■mqa.H 9*«S3SRSS!8»3 J ■i|.«»AV e^ n -^IJawa IS -i]ji>qinos ss^ssSsEsssa 1 i 1 ■wwun ■W»H*H '>«'«*1 £°'saiisss«sis* ■wqasH SSSXSSgKSiSSSS i -5- «-/|jaqiJON ^ -AlJSlssa ^ ./[«.pnos|aS«-22Sa24ii£fi [g| • ^»a«o^ -wqSiH 1 -^^»«o^ sssss^qisssaa -W18-H sssaasssasjs 1 ■Xl43)S3^ |. ■i,«»«3 "■il^cnnos sa«22a2=2Ssa * 1 llliiMllJ if- lit 11:= ll§ . lij ml Ilililll !|lfl1Ji lllll^ll iSs^l .Is liil|sii i'Ssil:.!! ||S|II5I a g-a'S-l of? 216 KINCARDINESHIRE. Hydrography.-^^^o spring sensibly impregnated with any mi- neral has been discovered in Dunnottar. Several little bums have their sources in the parish, and most of them are tributary to the Carron. The chief of these is the Bum ofGlaslaw, issuing from the den or ravine already noticed as the termination of Strathmore. Its junction with the larger stream gives the name of Invercamm to a part of the territory of Stonehaven. The Carron, from its rise in the parish of Glenbervie, runs a course of only eight or nine miles. In times of protracted drought, its whole stream, uu* collected, would hardly suffico to turn a corn mill, but in floods it assumes the appearance of a large and rapid river, destructively overflowing its banks, and occasionally inundating the streets of Stonehaven. Running water has not yet, in this parish, been ap- plied as the moving power of machinery of any importance, but there are situations in which it is considered it might be used with advantacre for manufactories. o Geology and Mineralogy, — The sea-coast, all the way from Stonehaven to near Crawton, is formed of the rock termed plum- pudding, having a strong compacting cement. In exposed sur- faces, the cement has yielded to atmospheric action, and exterior boulders being displaced, leave cavities which, in precipices, the sea- fowl appropriate for their nests. On the surface of a ledge of rock at Crawton, a small portion of columnar basalt appears, and throughout the parish, large boulders of granite and of gneiss are not uncommon. In a moor above Fowlsheugh, stones have occa- sionally been quarried from what is said to be one of the trap for- mations, and in the moor of Carmount, a stratum of what is un- derstood to be porphyritic granite affords useful stones for rubble building. But, apart from the coast, the prevailing strata of rock are of coarse brown sandstone. Indeed, at the harbour of Stone- haven, the cliff changes to a stratum of that formation, which, un- der a deep covering of red. clay, appears to run in a southerly di- rection, and probably all along bounds the plumpudding rock at no great distance from the sea. In the bottom of that harbour, there is a stratum of pipe-clay, but neither limestone nor marl has been discovered in this parish. SoiL — Dunnottar possesses the usual diversity of clayey, loamy, gravelly or sandy, and moorland soils. They are not distinguish- ed by any peculiar local arrangement, the varieties occurring in all parts of the parish, often, indeed, on one farm and in one field; for although clayey soils, more or less friable, and black or hazelly DUNNOTTAR. 217 loam, more or less deep and cohesive, prevail near the coast, yet * even there a thin covering of moorland soil, or the lightest sandy soils, may be seen under tillage, vihile in the more inland parts, where generally the soil is light, clay and loam, comparatively fer- tile, are not unusual. No calcareous earth, unless what is adven- titious, forms a component in any of the soils, the sand and gravel which they contain being what is commonly understood as siliceous. In many instances, the subsoil is the indurated combination of clay and gravel known by the name of tili^ and this more commonly where the supersoil is scanty, or a recent conversion of moorland earth. Some of the clayey soils, from long melioration, are of considerable fertility, but instances of clay soils incumbent on sand or open gravel, are very rare ; and consequently lately cultivated clays are for the most part of difficult and precarious management. Zoology. — In the recollection of persons not yet very old, seals were numerous on the coast of Dunnottar. They were then to be seen in herds, basking on the rocks or sporting in the bays, and the hunting of them in the caves was practised both for amuse- ment and pro6t. Now, they have nearly abandoned the caves to which they resorted as their breeding- places, and only a solitary one is to be seen occasionally, skulking for prey at the foot of the rock. The fox and the foumarte have both become rare in this parish, and the peaceable brock and harmless urchin are seldom met with. The otter's cry is hardly ever heard, affording as it was wont a foreboding to the superstitious. The whitteret or weasel still frisks about the stack-yard, and the Norway rat overruns the land, having, however, nearly exterminated the race of his black brother. What are said to be wild-cats are occasionally found in solitary places, but there is reason to doubt whether they are not merely such as have escaped from a state of domestication. Herds of roe-deer are to be seen in the woods, or, in the pinch of winter, visiting the turnip fields, and even the stack yards. Hares are nu- merous, and the whole country is grievously infested with rabbits, from a colony planted in this parish five and twenty years ago, be- fore which period that animal in a wild state was unknown in this quarter. In the feathered race, the numbers and variety of birds inhabit- ing or frequenting the rocks and caverns of the sea coast, form the chief object of attention. The common gull has appropriated to himself a district of the cliff where he nestles to the exclusion of all others. The kittiwake or tarrock is migratory, arriving in 213 KINCARDINESHIRE. spring, and taking its departure early in autumn. Its nests occu- py nearly a mile of clifT, but are intermixed with the nests of se- veral varieties of the genus Colymbus, as the marrot or foolish guillemot, the norie or puffin, and three or four others. Besides the myriads of sea-fowl in these rocks and caverns, several land- birds breed there, as the stock-dove, raven, jackdaw, sparrowhawk, and gentil falcon or gamehawk. Of the latter, it is said more than one pair is never observed in one season. The parish abounds in partridges ; and wild-duck, teal, and snipes, are by no means rare. There are a few pheasants, and in their seasons, landrails and wood- cocks. Occasionally, a covey or two of red grouse are produced in Carmount Hill, and blackcock has been seen in the woods, but not probably bred there. Cushats or ring *doves are very numerous, although not so much so as before the late severe winters. Be- sides the howlet and barn-owl, a beautiful, and, it is believed, rare variety of this genus, is found amond the rocks of the sea coast* Its solemn broad face has a short and erect covering resembling hair, encompassed by white silky down disposed in the form of- a narrow ring. The belly is of pure white, and the back a cinna- mon colour, mottled with bright spots and with longitudinal stripes of a darker tinge. It is believed neither the carrion nor the hooded- crow breeds in Dunnottar ; nor has the rook ever yet built in it, but a large rookery at Fetteresso Castle, on the border of this pa- rish, sends forth visitors in sufficient numbers to all the neighbour- hood. Magpies do not abound here of late, having, as well as other birds of prey, suffered under the proscription of game pre - servers. Since the formation of plantations, there has been a great increase in the number and variety of singing-birds, and between the extremes from the thrush to the wren, more than a dozen of different species are to he found, all common to this part of the country, and therefore not necessary to be particularized. Botany,* — In the inland part of the parish, the botany affords nothing worthy of remark ; but the sea-coast, abounding in shel- tered coves of rich soil, presents a varied and luxuriant vegetation. Perhaps in no district is there a greater number of species in so small a space, though no one is known as peculiar to this locality, or even very rare. Among the most remarkable, may be noticed narrow-leaved blysmus, Scottish lovage, sea- lungwort, cowslip, bittersweet, scarlet pimpernel, perwinkle, white saxifrage, agri- • From information supplied I))' the Rev. Robert Sim, schoolmaster of Dunnottar. 4 DUNNOTTAR. 219 mony, marjoram, sea-rocket, wood-vetch, commoD carline, sea feverfew. Several species of rather rare carices are also to be met with as, Carex distans^ C incurvai C intermedia^ C. vulpina, and others. Wallflower grows abundantly on the ruins of Dun- nottar Castle, and in the neighbouring rocks, undoubtedly wild. Henbane, a plant very rare in the north, if it be indeed indigenous, is stated in the Northern Flora to be " plentiful near the Whigs' vault," in the castle, but, from its being confined to a spot o( pecu- liar soiU it may be doubted whether it is to be considered a native. Oxlip primrose {Primula elatior) occurs sparingly* A variety has been found, having the corolla red with a yellow eye, very similar to some varieties of the garden polyanthus. Plantations. — In Dunnottar, extensive plantations, chiefly on the estate of General Forbes, comprehend all the common varieties of hard-wooded trees, and trees of the pine and fir tribe. The greater part is of sixty, and very little under thirty, years growth. In general, these plantations have succeeded well, the exception applying principally to Scotch firs in situations where there is a de- ficiency of soil and an excess of moisture. In more favourable situations, good timber is produced, and this more particularly around Dunnottar House, where, notwithstanding its adjacency to the sea, ash, elm, beech, oak, and other hard-wooded trees, spruce, larch, and Scotch fir, are healthy and thriving. On the land of Auquhirie, in the western district, the soil seems peculiarly favour- able to the growth of oak, ash, and beech. Some old trees of the latter sort at the house of Auquhirie have attained a great size ; and several of them yet in exuberant foliage, which were uptom by the hurricane in October 1838, showed marks of the growth of more than 100 years. It is to be regretted, that the tearing of oak had not met with more attention, as much of the ground oc- cupied by firs has proved more adapted to the growth of that va- luable timber. II. — Civil History. Land-owners, — These, taking them in order according to the extent of their properties, are Lieutenant- General Nathaniel Forbes, Lady Keith-Murray, the Trustees of Donaldson's Hospital, Robert Duff, Esq., and the Trustees of the late Lord Viscount Keith, as superiors of the burgh of Stonehaven. Parochial Registers. — The records of the kirk-session com- mence in 1693 ; but they contain no remarkable entries. Antiquities. — Among the mouldering relics of ancient Scottish 220 KINCARDINESHIRE. edifices, the ruins of Dunnottar Castle hold a prominent place. They occupy an area of between four and Sve acres on the top of a precipitous rock, separated by a deep chasm from the main- land, and almost surrounded by the sea. The great tower, still nearly entire, and the ranges of buildings adapted to the Tari- ous purposes of a garrisoned place, present, in their majestic posi- tion and bold and varied sutline, an object at once grand and pic- turesque. Nor is less interest derived from an examination of the interior, where, shut in by a portcuUised gateway, and secur- ed at every assailable point by walls «andVamparts^ are to be seen, suffering less from time than from the hand of the spoiler, the halls and chambers, now roofless aiid deserted, which once were animated by the pomp and circumstance of war, and all the splendour of baronial greatness. It is stated in the last Statis- tical Account, that there were in the custody of the late Mr Keith of Ravelston, and doubtless there now are in the possession of his grandniece, Lady Keith- Murray, to whom the ruins belong, some old papers establishing that, during the contest between the parties of Bruce and Baliol, a fortress was built on this rock by an an- cestor of the family of Marischal, who acquired the right, on the condition of his erecting, in a more convenient situation, a parish church in lieu of that which formerly stood there. Another ac- count is, that a Sir William Keith suffered excommunication for having built the castle on consecrated ground, and that, by a bull from Rome in 1394, his excommunication was removed, on con- dition of his building a new church, and making recompense to the clergy. It is certain, however, that Dunnottar Castle was in existence long before 1394; and that it had existed even before the contest between Bruce and Baliol, is to be inferred from the fact mentioned by Buchanan, that when at the commencement of that contest, Wallace had assumed the Regency, Dunnottar, " suf- ficiently manned and fortified," was one of the fortresses then held by the English, which were reduced by him. '* By an unexpect- ed assault (says the historian) he carried Dunnottar castle, which he garrisoned." This, it is believed, is the earliest historical notice of the castle ; and while it seems to establish that it was then not a recent erection, it leaves the origin of it in obscurity, from which, probably, it will never be extricated. There is indeed a tradition that the great tower, in appearance the oldest of all the buildings, was the work of the Picts. In this, there is at least no improbability, for although dismantled, and left to all the influ- DUNNOTTAR. 221 dice of the elements, for now more than 100 years, it has yet suf- fered wonderfully little dilapidation, and its strength and durabi- lity having been such that it has so well withstood decay since the days of Wallace, it may well enough be conceived that it had ex- isted for ages before his time. This castle was one of the more considerable of the fortresses of Scotland, and is, supposed to have been, before the use of artillery, altogether impregnable. So late as 1651, it held out, with but ** a scanty garrison,^ for the period of six months, against a body of Cromwell's troops, and it was only after the siege had been turned into a blockade, and when pressed by famine and mutiny, that Ogilvy, the governor, was in- duced to capitulate. In former times, it had frequently changed hands, by what means does not particularly appear, unless that, when it was carried by Wallace, it is said to have been by surprise. To this day, the name of Wallace is attached to an aperture near the great tower, through which he himself is said to have gained the interior, and by that means opened the gate to his followers. The family of Marischal is understood to have taken its rise from a well known incident — the slaying of the Danish General Comus, by a young nobleman of the name of Keith, whom the second King Malcolm rewarded for his valour, by bestowing upon him certain lands in Lothian, with the title of Great Marischal of Scot- land. The date of that event is the year 1010 ; and subsequently, but at what particular period does not appear, the castle with the whole parish of Dunnottar came into possession of the Marischal family. By the accession of George, the last Earl Marischal, to the rebellion of 1715, the title and extensive estates of the family were forfeited, and the castle, which, about thirty years before had been purchased by government, was completely dismantled. The placing of the Regalia of Scotland in Dunnottar castle during the Commonwealth, and their having, before the castle was surrendered to Cromwell's General, been conveyed away and secreted under the intrepid and ingenious management of Mrs Ogilvy, the governor's lady, and Mrs Granger, the wife of the parson of Kinneff, are facts too generally known to require particular mention. Neither, as it is matter detailed in history, isjt necessary to do more than allude to the imprisonment here, in 1 685, of the Covenanters, who, to the num- ber of 167 men, women, and children, were confined in one dun- geon, still known by the name of the Whigs' vault, where they suf- fered the greatest tortures under Keith of Whiterigs, at that time governor of the castle. In the church-yard of the parish, a plain 222 KINCARDINESHIRE* Stone records the names of nine of these persons, '' wko («s the epitaph runs) ^^ all died prisoners in Dunnottar Castle^ anmo 166S| for their adherence to the word of God and ScoilafuTs caoe$Hmt- edwork of Reformation^*^ It was while employed in his babitaal task of clearinf( the simple but expressive inscription of this mo- nument, that '^ Old Mortality" was Brst seen by Sir Walter Scott, then on a visit to the late Mr Walker, minister of the parish. On that occasion, a circumstance occurred which has some resem« blance to an incident in *^ the Antiquary." Sir Walter had pro- posed and superintended an exploration of the large but dilapidat- ed well in Dunnottar Castle, in the bottom of which, accord- ing to tradition, was buried the family plate of the Earl MarischaL On the second day of a laborious search, an ancient vessel was found among the stones and rubbish, which, it was not doubted, was a part of the hidden treasure ; but, after an anxious examina- tion of it, much amusement was occasioned by one of the party* confessing that it was an old brass tea kettle which he had found means to have thrown into the well the previous night. A roof- less building in the church-yard, having the name of the MarU^ chal AisUi had at one time been the family sepulchre. In an underground vault, are fragments of leaden coffins, and small boxes of the same material, containing no doubt the relics of some of the once noblest of the land, but, sic transit gloria mundiy neither in- scription nor tradition now tells their history, or even their names. The only other noticeable matters of antiquity in the parish are two tombstones, which lay on what was formerly a piece of waste ground close by the town of Stonehaven, and were lately taken up and erected near the spot. They covered the graves of persons who, it is understood, died of the plague. One of them, on which the word " Pest" is still legible, bears to have been in memory of ^' Magnus Tailliour,'* who died in 1608, and the other is dedicat* ed to the memory of two children, *' an honest man^s bairns," of the name of Brockie, who died in 1648. It would appear from these monuments, as well as from the tradition connected with them, that the plague had visited this parish at these two pe- riods. Modern Buildings. — The only gentleman's seat in the parisli, is Dunnottar House, now the property of General Forbes. Its erec- tion was begun forty years ago by Alexander Allardyce, Esq. who, * The late Francii Logie, Esq. DUNNOTTAH. 223 having realized a large fortune in Jamaica, had purchased of the creditors of the York Buildings Cooopan^, the greater part of the Marischal estate in this parish. It is a plain, but extensive and comnQodious building, embosonied in plantations formed by Mr Al- lardyce. In forming the gardens attached to it, upwards of L. 10,000 are said to have been expended. The unpretending mansion of the Ogilvies of Barras, whose ancestor, for his gallant defence of Dunnottar Castle, and the preservation of the regalia, had the unsubstantial reward of a baronetcy, was once to have been numbered among the buildings of note in this parish, but it has long ceased to be the residence of that family, and is now used as an ordinary farm-house. — In the town of Stonehaven are the county buildings, containing a spacious hall, appropriately fitted up as a court room, with committee rooms, and offices for the sheriff-clerk, and on the basement are cells for prisoners, with a gaoler's house. Some late additions have greatly improved the appearance of these buildings; but the huge precipitous roof of the main building is a deformity which still remains to be remedied. About fifty years ago, the magistrates of Stonehaven, with the sav- ings of their '^ common good," erected a square tower with a spire ; but it is to be regretted that this expenditure was made to effect iiothinor more than accommodation for the town clock. The other public buildings in the town are an Episcopal chapel, in the form of a cross, built, it is believed, early in the eighteenth century, and a Methqdist chapel, erected a few years ago, in the humble style of such buildings. As a quubi public building, the '^ Mill Inn*' deserves notice. It has lately been altered and improved so as now to add greatly to the appearance of the place, and to the ac- commodation of travellers. 1 1 1. — Population. Although in the course of the last sixty- eight years, the popu- lation of the parish underwent some fluctuations, it is nearly the same now as it was at the commencement of that period. Thus, in 177*2, the number of inhabitants was 1862, and by the census in 1831, the number was 1852. The division into town and rural population at each of these dates was as follows : In 1772, town, 923, rural, 939 total. 1862 1831, do. 941, do. 9il, do. 1852 The number of males in 1831 was less than the number of fe- males in both localities. Thus there were at that time 22i KINCARDINESHIRE. Males in Stonehaven, • 426 Females in do. • 516 941 Males in the country, • 442 Females in do. • 469 911 1M2 In the period since 1772, the greatest amount of population oc- curred in 1792, when it reached to 196^, of which, 1072 belonged to the town. In the country, the numbers have not at any time greatly varied, and it might seem singular, that in the seaport of Stonehaven, the population since 1792 has apparently decreased. But this admits of explanation. The ground within the bounds of the burgh, which is the Dunnottar part of the town, having been nearly all occupied, building between fifty and sixty years ago began to extend to the north side of the Carron, in the ad- joining parish of Fetteresso, where a new town was planned, and feu-rights granted, by Mr Barclay of Ury, on his lands of Ardu* thie. In this way, Stonehaven had increased so as to contain in both parishes, according to the census of 1831, a population of up- wards of 8000, being more than triple the town population of 1772. It is supposed a farther increase has taken place since the date of thatcensus.* The average annual number of marriages in Dunnot- tar is 14, and of births 34. There are five insane persons main- tained at the expense of the parish, and there is one deaf and dumb person, a young man, educated at the asylum in Aberdeen, who is industrious and intelligent, and affords a gratifying exam- ple of the important benefits flowing from such institutions. Each of the land-owners of the parish possesses property greatly exceed- ing in revenue the sum of L.50. Not one of them is resident. No feuar in the Dunnottar quarter of Stonehaven has a rental of that amount. The people in general are attentive to their religious and moral duties. Indulgence in the use of intoxicating liquors is fast disappearing. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — The cultivated land in Dimnottar amounts to about 4860 imperial acres. About 690 acres are in wood ; and * By the census of 1841) the population of Dunnottar parish is, Males in Stonehaven, - 425 Females in do. • -513 988 Males in the country, - 476 Females in do. - 446 922 1860 DUNNOTTAR. 225 of the remaining portion of the area of the parish, about 1740 acres consist of tracks of moorland, or patches of natural pasture, in- terspersed among farms. Of these 1740 acres, about one-half may be considered capable of being cultivated. Bent. — The average rent of arable land is about L. 1, 7s. the imperial acre, the range being from Ids. to L.3, ds., with the ex- ception of some land near Stonehaven, which, enhanced by its lo- cality^ rents as high as from L. 10 to L.16 per acre. In a few in- stances, rent is made dependent on the fiars prices of grain, fluctu- ating annually as these prices rise or fall, a mode of adjustment which may inconveniently affect the tenant, as it may happen, from deficiency of crops in bad seasons, that his rent is in an inverse ra- tio to the amount of his receipts at market. Leases. — The usual term of leases is nineteen years. In some instances, a shorter term is conditioned, but in no case is a lease for a longer period now granted. Formerly, when, instead of the present great demand and competition for farms, it was diflScult to find tenants, leases on lives, or for two or three times nineteen years were very common. Of such leases only one now remains in this parish, which was granted in 1784, upon a life still surviving.* Live-stock. — Sheep farming is not practised in Dunnottar. Of late, some attention has been paid to the breed of farm-horses and cattle. The former are of middling size, active and hardy. They have been improved by crosses from stallions of the Suffolk, Clydes- dale, and other approved breeds, but the original defects in the blood of the mares have not yet been eradicated. The cattle are chiefly of the black polled breed. The average weight of oxen reared and fed in the parish may be about fifty stones imperial, but feeding is not practised here very extensively, most of the tenants selling their stock when two years old, off the grass, or from the straw- yard. Pigs, not long ago to be found only at corn-mills, are now reared and fed in considerable numbers by the farmers and cotta- gers. They are in general of the improved short nosed-breed, and the pork is cured chiefly for the London market. Husbandry. — A complete reformation of the practice of agri- culture in this parish followed the great improvements introduced and accomplished on his estate by the late Mr Barclay of Ury.f * It may be noticed as a curious fact, tbat> in this case, the tenant, when the lease was granted, had a family of eight healthy children, and that the only survivor now was the fourth child, on whose life the lease was taken. t An interesting account of Mr Barclay's improvements is to be found in Robert- son*8 Agricultural Report of Kinc»rdin shire. KINCARDINE. P 1 226 KINCARDINESHIRE. Under the salutary, and in this quarter all-perrading influence of bis example, the alternate *^ butt and baulk," and the serpentine ridge disappeared ; land was cleaned, drained, and limed ; regu- lar fields were formed : artificial grasses and turnips were wtro- duced, and the system of convertible husbandry finally banished the antiquated and rude management by ^' outfield and infield." After this, the rotation for some time observed was one of six years, including two years of grass and two grain crops in succession ; but this having in most cases been found deteriorating to the soil, the management was gradually changed to a rotation of five years, admit- ting but one grain crop, after two years of grass ; or to a rotation of seven years, under which two successive grain crops are permitted, but the severity of them modified by a previous rest of three years in grass. These are the rotations now in general use, unless where a rotation of four years has been introduced, as supposed better suited to some peculiar soils. In this way, within the last sixty years, the greater part of the land in Dunnottar has, from the worst mode of management, and comparative sterility, been advanced to a pitch of improvement, not inferior to that of any district in this part of the country. Hardly any farm in the parish is now without ft thrashing-mill, moved either by water or animal power, and one spirited tenant in it has lately attached a steam-engine to his thrashing-machine. Quarries. — In this parish, the only quarry of noticeable extent is in the sandstone cliff above the harbour of Stonehaven, which has been wrought for a great many years, and has furnished stones for the greater number of the houses in that town. It has the name of the Redcraig^ and from a part of it called Sciatecawes, a lump- ish sort of flag was formerly taken, and used for the purpose of slate. With these some of the primitive houses in the town are still covered. Fishings, — There is no salmon -fishing in Dunnottar, although it is thought some of its headlands admit of the lately introduced mode of fishing with bag-nets. White fishing in the sea is the sole occupation of the villagers of Crawton, and it is carried on by the crews of five or six boats at Stonehaven. The parish is thus well and cheaply supplied with various kinds of fish, as haddock, whit- ing, cod, ling, skate, halibut, flounders, and occasionally turbot. Lobsters and crabs are caught in abundance, and of excellent qua- lity. Herring-fishing is now prosecuted with enterprise at Stone- haven, where curing establishments have been formed ; and the DUNNOTTAR. 227 position on the coast which the harbour occupies is so favourable^ the access to it is so easy, and its internal accommodation so con- venient for the purpose, that it is likely to become prominent as a station in the herring-fishery. Manufactures. — Cotton and linen weaving is carried on pretty extensively at Stonehaven, under the agents of several houses at Aberdeen. A good many females find employment in this way, and of the men so employed in the winter time, some become fishermen in summer, particularly during the herring season. The manufacture of coal g^s was lately commenced at Stonehaven by a joint-stock Company, with a capital of L. 2500. The works, though on a limited scale, are very complete ; and the gas produ- ced is of the best quality, and is now used in lighting almost every shop and dwelling-house in both old and new town. Some ma- nufactures are carried on in the Fetteresso quarter of Stonehaven, but these fall more properly to be noticed in the account of that parish. Trade and Shipping. — The imports at Stonehaven consist chiefly of lime and coals. Of the former, the average annual im- port during the last fourteen years is 18,000 bolls, and of the lat- ter 13,000 bolls, — the range of quantities over that period being from 11,000 to 26,000 bolls a-year of the one, and from 10,000 to 19,000 bolls a-year of the other. The other imports include bone-dust, salt, slates and tiles, paving-stones, groceries, and other shop goods. Of the articles exported, the principal is grain, the quantity of which shipped annually during the period mentioned has varied from 4800 to 14,000 quarters. Among the other ex- ports are potatoes, whisky, cured- fish, and occasionally timber and live-stock. In the trade of the port, ten or eleven vessels, owned by individuals in the town and neighbourhood, are usu- ally employed ; but vessels belonging to other places are engag- ed in it. The average revenue of the harbour during the last fourteen years was L.512. In 1826, it was L.604. In 1835, it fell to L.412, since which it has been again increasing; and in 1839, it amounted to L.482. Formerly this harbour, though one of the most easy approach in easterly gales, was interiorly so ill defended from the sea, as to be shunned by vessels during the winter months. In 1825, it was placed, by Act of Parliament, under the management of a Board of Commissioners, who, raising money on the security of the harbour dues, laid out L.8000 in its im- provement. The improvement consisted of the removal of a mass of 1 228 KINCARDINBgHIRE. high rock at the entrance, and the erection of an extensire pier on the south side, brought out in a direction towards the old pier on the north side, and leaving between their extremities an opening towards the sea for the admission of vessels. A large space of barboar room, with commodious wharfs, was thus enclosed ; but the state of the funds had not admitted of completing the plan, by the erection of a break-water, designed to proceed from the north side, so as to cover and protect the entrance ; and the conseqneDce was, that the harbour was far from being yet safe in great easterly storms. This defect has, however, been completely obviated by the recent erec- tion of interior piers, or it may be said of one line of pier, running from the point of, and at right angles with, the great new pier, to the shore, and having an opening just sufficient to admit a resseL In this way, an inner harbour has been formed, so well protected that vessels with but slight mooring ropes now lie still and safe in any weather. Under the authority of the Commissioners of Northern Lights, guiding lights have of late been erected, corresponding with the line of the fair way ; and, upon the whole, Stonehaven harbour, to the advantage it has always possessed of being acces* sible in easterly gales, when few, if any, of the other harbours on the east coast could be approached, now adds the advantage of ample interior accommodation and security ; and, accordingly, the masters of coasting- vessels, who formerly preferred the risk, often very great, of keeping the sea, or running for one of the friths, to any shelter which it afforded, now willingly and gladly avail themselves of it when overtaken by adverse weather. The steam-ships plying be- tween Leith and Aberdeen call in the bay on their passage to and fro, and the landing and embarking of passengers and goods by these vessels, add something to the business and revenue of the harbour. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — No parish is better accommodated with roads than Dunnottar. Along the sea-coast it has the road by which the Edinburgh mails pass. It is kept in excellent con- dition under the management of turnpike trustees. The great Strathmore road, also turnpike, and in equally good condition, runs through the interior of the parish. These roads meet at Stonehaven, giving it the advantage of a thoroughfare. Besides these great lines, cross roads scarcely inferior to them pass over the parish in all requisite directions. These are maintained by 4 DUNNOTTAR. 229 trustees under an act for the conversion of Statute-labour, and have greatly promoted the agricultural improvement of the parish. Eccle siastic al State* — The former parish church was taken down and the present one built on the same site in 1782. The manse was built in 1786. I Both are tolerably substantial and commo- dious, although neither contains the accommodation which is ne* cessary, and which a very little additional expense would have afforded. The stipend, excluding small fractions, is 127'^ bolls of meal and 92| quarters of barley, with L.10 of money* The teinds are exhausted* The glebe contains four acres arable, and a por« ^0 tion of grass land in an adjoining den* There are several fine old Y ashes in the churchyard, and a good many thriving trees on the ji { glebe* The situation of the church and manse, surrounded with ^**S! plantations and grassy dells, is highly agreeable. The distance "S) from Stonehaven is about one mile. j|H Y Education. — The parish school is at Stonehaven. The school- ^j master's salary is L.34, 4s. 4id., with a dwelling-house and the ^^^ statutory extent of garden* The number of scholars varies from 20 to 30* There are several private schools in the parish, and C^ the minister is, ex officio, one of the trustees of a free-school, lately ^^ endowed in the new town, under the will of Mr William Donald- ^^ son, at which this parish has the privilege of placing 20 scholars ^s^ from six to twelve years of age* Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers receiving permanent relief is about 50, and there are five pauper lunatics in asylums or boarded' at the expense of the parish. The annual ex- ^penditure in this way, for some time past, has not been under L.260, while the income has been as under; weekly collections, L.66, 6s.; seat rents, L. 11, 12s.; interest of stock, L.20; pe- nalties, &c. L.2, 15s. ; total, L. 100, Ids. ^^ The excess of expenditure over income has hitherto been ^^v made up by the heritors by a voluntary assessment, and thus not only has a sum of L. 400 of stock been kept entire, but the neces- sity of resorting to a legal assessment has been avoided. Burgh of Stonehaven — At what time Stonehaven was erected into a burgh of barony is not known* Very probably the erec-^ tion was contained in a Crown charter in favour of one of the Earls of Marischal, which is not now to be found. Its existence as a hurgh was at an early period recognized by the Legislature, and an Act of Parliament in 1607, c 10, ordains <^ the said Burgh of Stonehaven to be in all time coming the bead Burgh of the She- 230 KINCABDINESHIUE. riifdom of Kincardine." In 1624, William Earl Marischal, ik , superior, entered into a contract with the feuars of the town, bj which it was agreed that two resident buryegMes qf the buryk, yearly presented by the inhabitants and chosen by the Earl, should be bailies, and should have power *^ to choose their own membeo, and to hold courts, and to decern anent their own ciril and oob- mon affairs." The late Viscount Keith purchased the superioritj of the town in 1797, and after his death, the old constitution, which, since the Rebellion in 1715, had been in a great measure in abeyance, was restored by his trustees, in whom the superioritf is vested. Since 1823, when that restoration took place, the feu- ars have annually presented a leet of four resident feuars, out of which the trustees choose two to be bailies, and these two choose a council consisting of three councillors, a dean of guild, and a trea* surer, and appoint a town-clerk, a procurator-fiscal, and two town- officers. The superior of the town, the magistrates, and three feuars chosen annually, are, with the Member of Parliament, the sheriff, and the convener of the county, commissioners under the Harbour Act of 1825. Previously, the harbour revenue formed part of the ** common-good." The present amount of it has been already stated. The revenue, separate from the harbour dues, is about L.dO. The town is charged by the Convention of Royal Burghs with the sum of L. 4, 10s. 4d. annually, for the privilege of trade, and this is assessed among the traders. Miscellaneous Observations. At the date of the former Statistical Account in I79d, the quantity of land under the plough was about 3600 Scotch, or 4539 imperial acres. Of that quantity about 60 acres have since been planted ; not less than 40 acres have been occupied by roads ; and as there are about 4860 acres now under the plough, it appears that about 421 acres have been brought into cultivation since 1793. At that period it is stated, ^^ The most general crops of grain were dear and oats, with very little barley^ and no wheat ;" and turnips, it was said, " are commonly sown broadcast with most advantage." At the present time, barley is raised more com- monly than bear ; wheat and also beans are cultivated on several farms, and a single field of broadcast turnips is never to be seen in the parish. In the former Account, the whole rent of the parish is said to STRACHAN. 231 have been about L.2100. At present, the rental amounts to about L. 66*00, being more than a threefold increase since 1793. A remarkable effect of the introduction of machinery in manu- factories appears on reference to the former Account* At its date, ** there were wages given to spinners in this neighbourhood, by persons in Stonehaven, who gave out flax for manufacturers here and in other places, to the annual amount of L.2652, 9s. 6d/' This sum was earned by females employed at the spinning wheel. That employment has long been almost entirely superseded by spinning mills, and the sign board formerly so common, bearing the intimation, ** Flax to be spun, given out here," is now nowhere to be met with* January 1842* PARISH OF STRACHAN. PRESBYTERY OF KINCARDINE o'nEIL, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. DAVID SCOTT FERGUSSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Nam€y Boundaries^ Sfc. — The parish derives its name from the river Aan or Aen, which takes its rise on the north side of mount Battack, flows down the strath or valley in a north-eastward direc- tion, and falls into the Feugh. In the old kirk-session records the name is written Strachaan or aen. Its modern orthography is Strachan, and it is commonly pronounced Straan. The parish ex- tends north and south, from the river Dee to the Cairn o' Mount, a distance of about 12 miles, and east and west, from its junction with Fordoun parish to the top of Mount Battack, a distance of fully 20 miles* It includes about 75 square miles. It is bounded on the north, by the river Dee; on the east, by the parishes of Ban- chory, Durris, and Fordoun ; on the south, by Fordoun, Glenber- vie, and Fettercairn ; and on the west, by Edzel, Lochlee, and Birse. It is situated twenty-one miles south-west of Aberdeen, and fifteen north-west of Stonehaven, the county town. By far the greater extent is irregular and mountainous. The only low and 232 KINC\flDINESIIIUE. flat lands are the cultivated parts, namely, Glen Dye and the vaU ley of Strachan. Mowdains. — The highest mountains are. Mount Battack, 3465 feet above the level of the sea ; Clochnabane, 2370 ; and Ker- lock, 1890. From the top of each of these a very extensive prospect pre> sents itself to the eye, embracing a great extent qt the eastern coast, from Aberdeen to Peterhead on the one hand, and to Mon- trose and the coasts of Fife and Haddington on the other, and stretching towards the south as far as Edinbuigh and the Pentland Hills. But the traveller is often disappointed. Though the daf may be 6ne and promising when he begins the ascent, ere he reack the summit, one of the fogs so common in very elevated districts may have enveloped the mountain, and shrouded from his view the sur- rounding scenery. On the top of Clochnabane, which signifies ^^ the stone on the hill," is a large granite rock, called the Stone of Clochnabane. Its height is about 100 feet perpendicular. It is accessible only on the west side. In ascending the mountain from the east side, it presents a very grand and imposing appear- ance, somewhat resembling the remains of an ancient castle or fort It is seen at a great distance, particularly from the east and north, and forms a land-mark to seamen when entering the port of Aberdeen. From the summit of Scoltie, one of the smaller hills in the pa- rb:h, about 800 feet in height, a beautiful and extensive view is obtained of the course of the river Dee. The majestic Lochna- gar is seen in the distance. Further down appear the Craggs of Ballater, the castle and village of Aboyne, and the village of Ban- chory, and numerous surrounding gentlemen^s seats lie at its base. To the north-east is the loch of Skene. The view tovrards the east terminates in the bay and part of the city of Aberdeen ; and the Grampian mountains bound the prospect on the south. Hydrography. — There are three rivers in the parish. Dye, Aen, and Feugh. The two former are tributaries to the latter. Dye takes its rise on the south side of Mount Battack, and, after flow- ing a distance of about fifteen miles, falls into the Feugh a quar- ter of a mile above the manse. Aen rises on the north side of the same mountain, and, after a course of from eight to ten miles, joins the Feugh half a mile above Whitestone. Feugh rises in the fo- rest of Birse, and its course to where it mingles with the Dee op- posite the mansion of Banchory Lodge, is probably from twelve to STRACUAN. 233 fifteen miles. The bed of these rivers is rocky and irregular. They rise rapidly to a great height after heavy falls of rain. On such occasions the Feugh will rise in a few hours from 8 to 12 feet Its height at bridge of Feugh, about 200 yards from its mouth, in the great flood of 1829, was upwards of 20 feet above its ordinary level. These rivers abound with good trout Grilse and sea-trout are found in the Feugh during the months of July, August, and September ; also in the Dye at this season. The form of the valley of Strachan would indicate that it had at one time been a loch of water, which bad its egress on the east side by two channels, namely, on the north-east, by the present channel of the Feugh, and on the south-east, by the farms of Knock and Garrol. This supposition accounts for the lands in the higher districts being of greater depth and fertility than they are near the bottom of the valley, which is particularly the case with the higher lands on the north side. On that side an accumula- tion of vegetable matter would naturally take place at the edge of the lake, by its being sheltered from the tempestuous influence of the north and west winds, which chiefly agitate our Scottish lakes. Mineralogy, — The rocks of which the hills are composed are all granitic. There is no limestone quarry in the parish, although limestone is common in the adjoining parishes of Birse and Ban- chory. Valuable specimens of cairngorum have been found in the channel of the mountain streams. Zoology* — Few alpine districts are better supplied with game than the Grampian range of Glen Dye, belonging to Sir James Carnegie, Bart Besides the common species, namely, the red grouse (Tetrao Seotictu)^ the partridge {T. perdix)^ and black grouse (T. tetrix)^ the white grouse or ptarmigan (7*. lagopus)^ and the dotterel (CAaracfrtti5martAe//t<«), regularly frequent Mount Bat- tack, and occasionally wander to other summits on that tract of the Grampians. We have been told by a shepherd of the district, that it is only of late years that the dotterel first made its appear- ance on these hills ; but whether his information be correct or not, we cannot positively afiirm. Of the other kinds of game the gol- den plover (C phivialis) is very abundant on all the hills and moors in this parish; and the gray plover {TVinga squatarola) is occasionally met with on the higher ranges. We notice the wood- cock only to remark, that it breeds in the woods of Blackball. * For the articles, Zoology and BoUny, the writer is indebted to Dr Adams of Banchory. 234 KINCABD1NESH1RE. From every inquiry we have made, we are inclined to believe that it is only within the last twenty years that woodcocks ceased to emigrate from Dee-side in spring, as they do in almost every other district of Scotland. The preservation of game being an object of considerable inte- rest to proprietors in this quarter, it may be worth while to give a complete list of their natural enemies. We can speak positive- ly to the following species of the falcon tribe having been shot in the district : Falco AlbicilU Faloo Milvut Faloo Nisus — — Buteo - palumbarius ^-— gentilis ' sruginosus A specimen of the peregrine falcon, which some naturalists identify with the gentil falcon, was sent to us from Glendye in 1835. Faloo cyaneus Falco Subbuteo ■ ^ Tinnunculus iEsalon To this list of rapacious birds we may add the raven {Corvus conur), the carrion crow (C corone)^ the hooded-crow (C comix) the magpie (C.picd)^ and the jackdaw (C. monedula). In this part of the country, the hooded-crows do not emigrate, and seem to identify themselves with the common crow and the jackdaw. Sometimes, though rarely, the starling (Stumus vulgaris) is found in company with them. The following are the only quadrupeds of the destructive kind which are now found in the district : Canis vulpes Mustela nivalis Mustela Martes MustolH Putorius ..^..^ Erminea .—....i.. meies The wild cat (Felis cattun) is rare, if not now extinct. Among the rarer species of birds which have occasionally beea seen in the parish, we may mention the kingfisher (Alcedo ispi^ da)^ and the hoopoe {Upupa epops) have been seen passing to other places of resort. The ring-dotterel {Charadrius hiaticula) makes its nest every season within the water-mark at the conflu- ence of the Feugh and Dye. Botany. — Scarcely any plants which can properly be called rare are found in the parish. The following, however, are not very common, and may therefore be deserving of notice. The Schcenus albusy found by a botanist in the parish some years ago, most pro- bably in one of the mountain glens ; the Driza media grows oc- casionally by the side of the river; Festuca gigarUea^ which is rare ; STRACOAN. 235 the Lotium temuUfUwUf of which a specimcD was found, in 1835, growing among barley on the farm of Heughhead ; the Symphy^ turn hAerosuniy found in the woods of Blackhall; the Viburnum opuluSf and the Rubus saxatilisj and Melampyrum tylvaticum^ all found on the banks of the river Dee. The Rubus chammmorusj or cloudberry, (which is commonly called the everon), grows on the summits of the Grampians. II. — Civil History. From Spalding^s History, it appears that the parish was laid under heavy contributions for the support of both the Royalist and Covenanting army in the reign of Charles I. ^^ Eight^hundred Highlandmen of Argyllshire,'' he says, ^' had an allowance ilk day, to be taken off the country, 24 bolls meal, 120 wedders, and — marts, with 60 dollars of money ; which they levied off Cromar Braes, Aboyn, Strachan, and the countries about.'' It would ap- pear from the same authority, that the lands of Strachan, at this period, acknowledged the feudal supremacy of the Earls Marischal of Dunnottar. Spalding records the following curious incident, which shows the superstitious belief of the period in omens of fu- ture good or evil : ^' A little before this time (1644), there was seen in the town of Gellen, pertaining to the Earl Marischal^ within the parish of Strachan, a fearful unnatural fire, whilk kin- dled of itself, and burnt the bigging of the town only. When the people saw this fire they ran to quench and stamp it out, but when it was quenched in one part it broke out in another part. It burnt up a byre with nolt and oxen, none knowing from whence it came. It seemed to be a prognostic of a far greater fire raised on this Earl's lands, as ye shall hear hereafter ;" namely, as our author afterwards shows, of the burning of the town of Stonehaven and adjoining country by the army of Montrose. Eminerit Persons. — Andrew Cant, the eminent Presbyterian minister, was descended of a family of that name, who were pro- prietors of Glen of Dye in this parish. " Sir Thomas Burnett, the first baronet of Leys, had a daughter married to Andrew Cant of Glendye, and of this family was Mr Cant, the Covenant- ing clergyman of Aberdeen," (Pinkerton's History of British Families.) Mr Cant was minister of Pitsligo, from whence he was translated to Newbottle, and afterwards, by appointment of the General Assembly, to Aberdeen in 1650. He was the friend and coadjutor of Dixon and Henderson, and rendered eminent service by his faithful and fearless preaching and inde&tigable la- 236 KINCARDINESHIRE. bour to the coveDanted cause in the north. Spalding designates him *^ a great Covenanter, and a mortal enemy of the bishops." Dr Thomas Reid, author of the **' Inquiry into the Humu Mind," and Professor of Moral Philosophy in the Uniyersity of Glasgow, was born in the manse of Strachan in April 1710. His father, Mr Lewis Reid, was the first Presbyterian minister of the parish after the Revolution settlement Mr Reid was ordained in March 1704, and died in November 1762, having been incumbent for the long period of fifty-eight years. The predecessor of Mr Reid was a Mr John Strachan, an Episcopalian, who, having be- come incapable, from bodily infirmity, of performing the duties of the parish, the Presbytery met at Strachan with the view of ob- taining the appointment of an assistant and successor. This Mr Strachan resisted, and appealed to the feords of Her Majesty's Privy-Council. After speaking, in term^of indignation, of the measure adopted by Mr Strachan, Mr Howe, minister of Birse, moved the Presbytery to proceed in the face of it, and secure a provision for the spiritual wants of the parish, to which the Pres- bytery unanimously agreed. Parochial Registers, — These have been regularly kept since the date of Mr Reid's settlement in 1704. Landed Proprietors. — The proprietors of the parish are. Sir James Carnegie, Bart, of Southesk, proprietor of the estate of Strachan. (Sir James has a neat and commodious shooting-lodge at Glen Dye, which is occupied by himself and party during the shooting season) : Colonel Campbell, proprietor of HIackhall, whose mansion-house is beautifully situated on the southern bank of the river Dee, about two miles from Banchory, and three from the church of Strachan by the nearest road : Burnett Ramsay, Esq. whose mansion-house, Banchory Lodge, is situated in the adjoining parish of Banchory ; and Henry Lumsden, Esq. of Til- whilley, proprietor of Invery, which house is situated at the north- eastern extremity of the parish on the banks of the Feugh, and is a handsome building. Antiquities — There are three circular and evidently artificial mounds, two of them covered with wood of from forty to fifty years growth, which may have been used as fences for bowmen when practising arrow-shooting. A farm-house, in the neighbourhood of these, is called Bowbutts. The third is named Castle Hill ; but no remains of a castle or fort are to be seen, nor is there auv tradition of its existence. STRACHAN. 237 There are two stone cairns, about a mile apart, on the iarms of Letterbeg and Ardlair. Their form is circular, about 300 feet in circumference, and 30 in height. The stones of which they are composed are nearly round, and all about the size which a strong man could carry. Similar to these, and seen from them, are cairns on Crossdardar to the west, in parish of Birse, and Cairnmount- eam to the east, in parish of Durris, and the line may have been intended, in ancient times, for beacon fires to intimate to the in- habitants an enemy's approach, and summon them to defence or retreat. III. — Population. The population, when last Statistical Account was written in 1792, amounted to 700. It had increased to 1039 in 1831. Since, it has decreased, and, according to a careful census made in 1838) it amounted tp 942. The census of 1841 gives 944. The recent decrease is accounted for by the emigration of families, — the decay of old houses which have not been rebuilt, — and prin- cipally by the union of several small farms into one, which system is now generally practised as the leases expire. The whole popula- tion is agricultural and pastoral. There is no village in the parish. Yearly average of births for the last five years, 90 marriages for do. 5 deaths for do. 12 illegitimate births for do. 2 According to census 1898» number of persons under 12 years of age, - 322 betwixt 12 and SO, - 288 dO and 50, - 186 50 and 80, - 141 above 80, - . 5 Total, - 942 Included in the above. Unmarried men, bachelors, and widowers upwards of fifty years of age, - 8 women upwards of forty-five years of ag6, • - 32 Fatuous, 1 ; lunatic, 3. Number of families, .... 129 houses inhabited by single men or women, - 29 Total number of inhabited houses, - - - 196 empty houses, ... 8 Average number of children under twelve years of age in each fiimily, - 2^ Proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards, - - 4 IV. — Industry. The whole population is agricultural and pastoral, with the ex- ception of the few who are employed in trades dependent upon agriculture. Blacksmiths, 3 ; wrights, 7 ; shops in which groce-^ ries and other goods are sold, 5. A number of females are em- ployed in knitting stockings. Good hands make from 7d. to 8d. per week, ordinary hands from 6d. to 6d. There is one woollen mill in the parish. 238 KINCARDINESHIBE. Agriculture. — Imperial acres under cultivation, uncultivated, waste, and in pasture, 4&561 susceptible of cultivation, • 865 in a state of undivided common, about 6000 under wood, Urcb, and Sootcb^fir, . 2200 Total, 56362 Average rent of land per imperial acre, somewhat above L.1. Rate of Labour. — Labourers and artisans without victuals, io summer, 2s., in winter, Is. 6d. per day. The common breed of sheep is the black-faced, and of cattle principally the small Aberdeenshire breed. The system of cropping is generally on the seventh rotatioD. The better land is well cultivated, is of a deep black soil, early and productive ; but the inferior land is still in a rude state of cultivation. The late General Burnett of Banchory, a public-spirited gentle- man and kind landlord, whose memory will be long and grateful- ly cherished in this parish and neighbourhood, reclaimed a con- siderable number of acres on his estate, now the property of Bur- nett Ramsay, Esq. He paid the expense of trenching, draining, and building stone feuces. The farmer cleared the ground and paid 4 per cent, for the money expended, during the remainder or the lease. The rivers Feugh and Dye, principally the former, have been embanked at considerable expense, for several miles of their course, and a few acres thereby reclaimed, while the whole valley is thus preserved from inundation, (to which it is especially liable in August and September months,) except when rain falls to a great extent, when the embankments do not form a sufficient- ly high and strong defence against the torrent, and much damage is done. In autumns 1838 and 1839, the embankments were overflowed, and in several places burst open, and the crop covered with mud and gravel, in some instances to the depth of from two to three feet, and otherwise greatly injured. Eight or ten acres are at present being reclaimed, which were in this way sanded over. The general period of leases is nineteen years. There are se- veral old and valuable liferents in the parish. Farm-buildings are, in general, in commodious proportion to the extent of the farms, and the system of agriculture keeps pace with the improvements of the surrounding district. STRACHAN. 239 There is an agricultural association in the adjoining parish of Banchory, with which the farmers in this parish are coooected. Pro dee. — Annual produce of grain of all kinds, 4I0I quarters, reckoned at an average of L.l per quarter, . L.4I01 Annual value of potatoes and turnips, &c. 1466 Do. bay, . 057 Do. pasture grass, . . 696 Do, sheep pasture, . . 280 Do. gardens, . 60 Miscellaneous, . . . 200 Total yearly value of raw produce raised, . L.7S24 V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Toums. — The market-towns to which the parishioners resort for sale of their farm produce are Aberdeen, Stonehaven, and Montrose. To the latter town there is a weekly carrier from the parish, and two weekly pass through it from the adjoining parish of Birse ; also a weekly carrier passes through the parish to Aberdeen. Distance to Aberdeen, twenty-one ; Montrose, twenty-six ; Stone- haven, fifteen miles. There is a post-office at Banchory, three and a-half miles dis- tant from the manse. Roads. — The more public roads, though not turnpike, are in excellent order, but narrow and seldom defended on the precipi- tous side. The private roads to the farm-houses are, in several in- stances, in a miserable state, from which great inconvenience must be experienced.* * In a remote and rude age, the Cairn o* Mount road, the great line of communi- Ccition across the Grampians, was haunted by a lawless banditti, and the traveller, when possessed of money or articles of value, always carried with him a defensive weapon. A ravine about 500 yards from the top of the cairn hill on the north side, close by the road, and well adapted fur concenlment, still retains the name of the *' thiePs buss." About a century and a-half ago, (as it is related,) a Highlander pas- sing to the south, was obliged to stop at a smithes shop at Ford o( Dye, near where the present bridge stands, to have a shoe replaced on liis horse ere he took the hill. He found a man of rather suspicious appearance sitting in the shop, who proved to be the chief of the gang, though unknown to the Gael. While the smith was at work, the Highlander took a pistol out of his pocket and commenced cleaning it. The son of Vulcan enquired regarding his intentions with the weapon, remarking that it was old and useless. The Highlander replied that the night was dark and the road dangerous — that he had a trifle of money which he would not like to part with, and should he be attacked, if his pistol ^' widna fell it might maby fleg.*' His friend the smith in vain sought for an opportunity of warning him of the character of the stran- ger, who was sitting by. The nag being shod, the mountaineer proceeded on his journey, but had not advanced far when he heard the noise of a horse behind him at full speed. On turning round, he recognized the man whom he had left in the smithy, who sternly demanded his money, backing the demand with a cudgel raised in a threatening attitude over the head of the honest Celt, and which he no doubt thought an over.match for the old rusty pistol. But the cunning Highlander had a better weapon, and drawing out another pistol from under his plaid shot the robber dead, and proceeded in safety across the cairn. 240 KINCARDINESHIBE. Bridges. — The bridges are in good repair, bat considerable iDconvenience is felt from' the loss of one by the great flood of 1829, on the line of road across the cairn. A temporary wooden bridge supplies its place at Whitestone, about a mile above the spot where it stood. Ecdesiastieal State. — The parish church was built about forty years ago. In 1337, it was comfortably repaired and an additional gallery erected. It accommodates with ease 488 persons, and all the sittings are free. It is situated near the centre of that part of the val- ley which is included in the parish, on the north bank of the river Feugh, and the site is the most suitable which could have been chosen for the general convenience of the parishioners. Except- ing Glen Dye, where there is a population of 150, distant from four to six miles, all the rest of the parishioners are within a con- venient distance from the church, the extremes being not more than three miles distant The manse was built in 1777, and repaired and enlarged in 1828. It is ample and comfortable. The whole extent of grounds (4^ attached to the manse is about five and a half acres, of which nearly four acres are arable, and the remainder in garden, green, roads, and stance of houses. \0 The glebe land is worth L.2 per acre. Stipend payable from the lands of Blackball, by Colonel Campbell, L. 20, 10s. Ox%d. ; A meal, 1 boll, 2 firlots. If peck; by Burnett Ramsay, Esq, L.19, TO 6s. 5d. ; from the lands of Strachan, L.51, 18s.; from the Ex- V^ chequer, L, 64, 10s. 8d. ; and from the lands of Auldbar, in parish of Brechin, L . 3, 16s. ^ Total, L. 160, Is. Ijod., (includ- ing L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements), and 1 boll, 2 firlots, ly pecks of meal. The whole of the population belong to the Established Church, with the exception of one family of Roman Catholics, four in number; one of Independents, three in number; and the families of the proprietors of Blackball and Invery, who are Episcopalians. There is divine service in the church, twice on the Sabbath, during five months in summer, at eleven o'clock forenoon, and half-past four in the afternoon, and in the forenoon only during the remaining months of the year. In the forenoon, the church is generally full, and from 150 to 200 attend in the afternoon. Sir James Carnegie erected, about three years since, at an ex- pense of from L.150 to L.200, a handsome school-room and school-house, in Glendye, about four miles from the manse. The STRACHAN. 241 minister preaches in the former to the inhabitants of the district . once a-month. From 50 to 70 ordinarily attend. The average number of communicants is 520, nearly 100 of whom are from the adjoining parishes. Average annual collec- tions at church door, L.27. There is a weekly meeting, on Wed- nesday evening, for religious instruction and prayer, conducted by the minister ; also a parochial religious association, in aid of the General Assembly's schemes, which contributes from L.6 to L.7 annually to these, and occasionally other religious objects. Educatioru — The parochial school is very eflSciently taught, by Mr M^Connachie, on the intellectual system. The course of in- struction comprehends the ordinary branches of a good education, viz. Latin, Greek, geography, grammar, mathematics, book-keep- ing, and a little of natural history and botany, with reading, writ- ing, and arithmetic. The salary is the maximum. The school- house is a neat and comfortable building, considerably larger than the legal size; and the school-room was amply enlarged in autumn 1841, at an expense of L. 80, and is most commodiously fitted up for the business of education. There is also a weekly school at Glendye, in winter, partially endowed, and frequently one in an- other district of the parish, on the teacher's own adventure. In these, 6nly reading, spelling, and writing, with a little of arith- metic, are taught. The attendance at these and the parochial school, winter 1839-40, numbered 195. There are in summer two, and in winter four Sabbath schools, in convenient localities, conducted by seven teachers, and super- intended by the minister ; also a class for the religious instruction of young persons above fifteen years of age, on the Sabbath morn* ings, during winter, taught by the minister. Amount of attendance on these, winter 1839-40, was 220. The parishioners highly appreciate the advantages of the week- day and Sabbath schools, the best proof of which is found in the number of children attending them, in proportion to the number of the population, being about one in five; This proportion, however, applies only to the six months in winter. Parents 'and others have remarked, that these schools have had a decidedly beneficial influence on the morals of the children. Swearing, quarrelling, falsehood, and Sabbath profanation are, it is hoped, on the decrease among the young. The children love the school, and are often reluctant to remain at home when ill health or in- clement weather renders it necessary. KINCARDINE. Q 242 KINCARDINESHIUE. Literature.^^Theve is a good parochial library, consisting of re- ligious books, and works on general knowledge, historical and scientific, numbering upwards of 400 volumes.* Charitable and other Institutions. — A society was formed in 1 8d7, for the purpose of supplying meal at a cheap rate to the poor and labouring class. To this society, Sir James Carnegie, BarL and the late General Burnett lent L.25 each, free of interest, and Mr Lams- den L.5, and about L.40 was raised in the parish by subscriptions and donations. The fund is laid out in the purchase of meal, or com to be converted into meal when the price is low, which stock is sold out at prime cost, (including the trifling expense of manage- ment) when the price rises. The regular poor, and those of the labouring-class who subscribe a small sum, are allowed to be pur- chasers. The quantity sold to the latter is regulated by the amount of their subscriptions. Any subscriber may withdraw when he pleases, on giving three months' notice. A committee is annually appointed first week of December, at a public meeting of the subscribers and donators, consisting of three of the labour- ing-class subscribers, and three of the farmers who have given do- nations ; which committee is empowered to lay out the funds to the best advantage, and manage the affairs of the association for the ensuing year. As soon as the price of meal rises, the stock is opened, and sales are made weekly or fortnightly, for ready money only. The advantage derived from this association, (besides hav- ing always at hand a -stock of good meal), principally consists in the price at which the managers of the fund are enabled to sell it, being generally very considerably under that of the market The first year of its institution (1837), the stock was sold at 15s. per boll, when meal could not be had in the market under L.l, 2s. At present, (August 1840), the price is I8s. per boll, while that of the market is so high as L.1, 5s. to L.l, 6s. There is thus a saving frequently of from 7s. to 8s. per boll, which, to the labour- ing man with a large family, is considerable, and the subscribers have long since saved the amount of their original subscriptions, which still remain to be called for at pleasure. It will be perceived, from the nature of this institution, that much depends on its judicious management. Hitherto the asso- ciation has been very fortunate in the purchase and preservation of their stock. * A Juvenile Librarj^ of 100 volumes was obtained in 1841 for the use of the week- day and Sabbath schools. 4 STRACHAN. 243 A parochial society was lately formed for the suppression of in- temperancci on the total abstinence principle. It numbers up- wards of ninety members, and promises to do much good. Measures are in progress for the institution of a sayings bank in the parish. Poor and Parochial Funds. — Average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid, 46 ; average quarterly distribution, L. 25 ; average sum allotted to eacli pauper annually, L.2, 8s. 8^d. This is exclusive of the maintenance of three lunatics in Montrose asy- lum, at the rate of L.22 per annum. The poor are sup- ported from the church door collections; the interest of L. 177 of a fund ; Lady Eraser's legacy of L.2 annually ; a few trifling per- quisites, and the donations of heritors. Generally, they are re- luctant in applying for parochial aid, and moderate in their re- quests. Fairs. — There is an old annual fair at Cuttieshillock, which, in consequence of the number of markets in the neighbourhood, is thinly attended. Inns. — There are at present four in the parish, one at Scolies- cross, about a mile north of bridge of Dye. The proprietor, on renewing the lease of the farm, has very judiciously put down the public-house, which will accordingly be shut at Martinmas first About two miles farther on the Cairn road is Cuttieshillock, one of the oldest inns in the north. The house was lately repaired and much improved. About a mile farther on is an inn at White- stone, a large building. The fourth is at church of Strachan, on the road to Banchory. Fuel — The fiiel of the inhabitants is almost entirely peat and wood, the former procured from the mosses of excellent quality, which abound in the parish, to which all the parishioners have a right, but which are situated at distances of from two to five miles from at least two-thirds of the population. A cart load of peats costs from ds. to 4s., and of wood from Is. to 28. February 1842. PARISH OF FETTERESSO. PRESBYTERY OF FOROOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND M EARNS. THE REV. GEORGE THOMSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — In ancient records, the name is variously written Foder- esach, Fethiresach, Fetheressow, &c. An eminent Celtic scholar states, that Fiailiairj (Fiatha and ar) signifies lay land, or wild and uncultivated land ; Feathar (Fea and ar)^ hoggy l{fnd. JEs* sachj a waterfall, cataract, cascade : — so that Feather-esso seems to signify the uncultivated, or marshy, or boggy land, in the vicinity of the waterfall. There is a beautiful waterfall on a small scale, near the burying-ground ; but none of any considerable extent in the parish. Situation, Extent, and Boundaries. — The parish is about 10 miles in length, between 5 and 6 in breadth, and comprehends 24,914 acres. It is bounded on the south by the parish of Dun- nottar ; on the west, by Glenbervie, Durris, and Maryculter ; on the north, by Maryculter, and Banchory Devenick ; and on the east, by the German Ocean. Its southern extremity is 1 1 5 miles north of Edinburgh, and 15 south of Aberdeen. Topographical Appearance. — Its surface is irregular, but not mountainous, — presenting a landscape, varying from the most pleasing to the most bleak. The new town of Stonehaven, the banks of the Carron and Cowie through the wholeof their course, the grounds adjoining Fetteresso Castle, Ury, Rickarton, and Netherley, may be considered as belonging to the former. Nor is there wanting at Elsick, Muchalls, and Cowie, and in the bold rocky coast, much that is also pleasing to the eye. Most of the other districts, particularly the great common of Cowie, in the centre of the parish, are bleak, even where cultivation is carried on upon a regular and approved system. But there is, in some districts, great want of wood and enclosures, and, of course, of shelter • and much mossy, wet, and bleak land. 3 FETTERESSO. 445 The climate must have been improved by the draiDing of land, which has been carried to a great extent. It cannot be called either decidedly dry or wet. Nor is it unhealthy. Even in the most wet and mossy districts, many reach extreme old age. In no quarter are there wanting persons of above eighty years, and there are several cases of individuals above ninety. Hydrography. — Over the parish generally, there are abundant springs. From Ury to the east, some are strongly chalybeate. Many years ago, a well of this quality on the lands of Arduthie, no vestige of which now remains, was much frequented, the water having been considered a valuable tonic. • There was a kind of lake, called Loch Dews, or the Lily Loch, near this well. It is understood to have been, in ancient times, of considerable extent But now very little vestige of it remains. The principal streams are the Carron and Cowie. The for- , mer divides the parish from Dunnottar for about five miles, en- tering the sea at Stonehaven. The latter has a similar course and termination. The burn of Muchalls arises at the western boundary, and that of Elsick within it, both flowing direct to the sea. The first two, though not large, are not inconsiderable streams ; and occasionally become much flooded, particularly the Cowie, which, having its sources in the Grampians, and being join- ed by many rivulets, has often occasioned damage to the property on its banks. The Carron, too, in 1829 and 1836, inundated part of the town of Stonehaven, to the depth of several feet. The course of all these is from west to east, and nearly parallel to each other. Geology and Mineralogy. — The prevailing rock on the coast is gneiss. On the Cammachmore estate, there is a rock of porphyry, consisting of fragments of white foliated — imbedded in red compact felspar. A dike of this mineral traverses the sandstone, on the north side of the bay of Stonehaven. There are quarries of it in the parishes of Dunnottar and Arbuthnott At a short distance south of the harbour of Stranathro, there are two gneiss rocks, through which the waves, by which they are washed at high tides, have ex« cavated two magnificent arches, of about 80 feet high by fifty wide. Near this spot there is a mass of sandstone. Its contact with the gneiss is not visible, but the neighbouring gneiss is intersected by small veins of sandstone. This is the most northerly locality of sandstone in the county of Kincardine. On the farm of Mill of Muchalls, a dike of red compact felspar traverses the gneiss. Its direction is east and west; its thickness some hundred yards; and ."■I ■ '1 I ',!• ^1 246 KINCARDINESHIRE. its length about a quarter of a mile. At both extremities of t dike, its junction with the gneiss is laid bare. At the west exti mity^ the gneiss, as it approaches the dike, passes into mica slat whereas, at the east extremity, the gueiss, in immediate conli with the dike, undergoes no change whateyer. On the cos contiguous to the farm of Blackhills, the gneiss abruptly rises fn an angle of 45 degrees, to a position perfectly yertical. It is bigl charged with oxide of iron, and very much waved. After continui from this point, for some miles up the bed of the water of Cow the gneiss passes into mica slate. The Grarron Point is a rock of ii{ i intermediate character, between serpentine and trap; and ol light green colour. It passes into chlorite slate. A variety veins of that species of iron ore called haematites, intersect t Jj ] rock. It is of a black colour and very rich. The veins vary fn four to eighteen inches in thickness. Some of the lai^er ve send out ramifications into the contiguous rock, part of them shi ed (in the language of geologists), that is, broken, or forced < of their original direction. ^ The rock, at its junctions with t veins, undergoes no change, either in colour or hardness, branched dike of compact felspar intersects this rock. In the t^ adjoining bays, there are extensive nests of pipe-clay in the gnei rock, immediately under the sand. On the south side of the ha hour of Cowie, within high water-mark, there is in the sandstoi a bed of clay slate, ten feet thick. On this coast, are found bea tiful pebbles of red jasper, and hornstone porphyry, which take high polish. They have been transported by the waves from tl conglomerate rocks, south of the bay of Stonehaven. In the di trict of the parish called the Brae of Fetteresso, there are rod of puddingstone, and of sandstone ; and on the lands of Ricka ton and Muchalls, though the prevailing stone is gneiss, grani of excellent quality is found in many places. Zoology. — All the varieties of land and sea birds enumerated the reports of the adjoining parishes are to be found here, j Fetteresso Castle, there is a rookery, perhaps the most extensive the county. The hill district is well furnished with grous Black game of late years have much increased, while snipe, plovc wild duck, teal, and woodcock, on account of the extended drai age of marshy ground, have decreased in number. Partridgi , fere every where found, and pheasants at Fetteresso and Ur There are roe-deer in the woods, and hares in every quarter. II. — Civil Hstory. i The first distinct records of this parish are connected with th< E' I FETTBRESSO. 247 introduction into it of the families of Fraser and Keith. It would appear that, for a long time, these families possessed the whole pro- perty of the parish. Family of Fraser. — The first person of any note of the name of Fraser, mentioned in Scottish annals, is Simon Fraser, who married the eldest daughter of Walter, the first great steward of Scotland, grandson of Banquo, Thane of Lochaber, and the paternal ancestor of the royal family of Stuart. In the reign of David I., a Simon Fraser, who seems to have been a person of much consequence, left a grand-daughter, and heir, who was married to '^ Herveus, filius Philippi Mariscalli," father of Sir John de Keith, and the ances- tor of the Earls Marischal. For many years, the family held high offices in church and state. In the reign of Alexander III., we find a Fraser " Viscomes de Traquair." The first of the race connected with this parish, of whom notice is taken in the history of the country, is Sir Alexander Fraser, who was nearly related to King Robert Bruce, (Archdeacon Bar- ber says, the King and Sir Alexander were cousins in a near de- gfee), and was married to his sister the Lady Mary. He was one of the principal instruments of settling the Bruce on the throne. He opposed with great success the powerful Cummines, reduced the north to obedience, and was signalized by his bravery at the battle of Bannockburn. In reward for his services, he obtained from that great Prince many gifts of lands in different counties, particularly in the shires of Aberdeen and Kincardine, some of them no doubt upon his own resignation, since it would appear that long before this period he had great influence in those dis- tricts of the country. Among these gifts, were the lands and fo- rest of Craigie, in the thanedom of Cowie, and afterwards, it would appear, the whole thanedom, with many other lands. Sir .Alexander held the office of Lord Chamberlain from 1325 to 1329. He was slain in the battle of Duplin, on the 12th August 1332 ; act^ was succeeded by his eldest son John, who, it is said, left no issue but one daughter, who was wedded to Sir William de Keith the marischal. Robert, the son of William de Keith, and Margaret Fraser, obtained from King Robert II. on 27th Decem- ber 1376, a charter of the forest of Colly (Cowie), and the forest called the Forest del Month, with the lands of Ferachy, Glasto- lach, Cragy, and Clochensheill, which, of old, was part of the thanedom of Colly, and was resigned into the King's hands by William de Keith. (Reg. Mag. Sigilli, p. iii.) Another portion of the thanedom was inherited, it is said, by Sir William Fraser, 248 KINCARDINESHIRE. the second son of the Lord Chamberlain, and ancestor of the house of Philorth, now worthily represented by the Lard Sahon. On the 20th October 1413, William Fraser, Ix>rd of Philorth, sold to William de Hay, Lord of Enrol, and Constable of Scot- land, all the " landis of the barony is of Cowy and Ehirryss, wid tenand and tenandyris, and service of the tenand."* This con- veyance was confirmed by the Regent, Robert, Duke of Albany, on May 14^ 1415. (Robertson's Ind. p. 160. Wood's Douglas's Peerage, Vol. i. p. 547). The Crown seems to have retained right to part of the thanedom; for on the Idth April 1363, Da- vid II. granted to Margaret de Saint Clair, Countess of Angus, an annuity of L.20 " ex thanagio de Colly." That part of the property thus conveyed to the family of Errol was called the Barony of Urie, and continued many years in the name of Hay. On failure of male issue, however, it returned again to the family, from which it came, about the year 1640, with the exception of those parts which were formerly disposed of by the Hays, to Bannerman of Waterton, ancestor of the present Sir Alexander Bannerman of Elsick, and to Burnett of Leys, an- cestor to the present Sir Thomas Burnett of Leys, viz. the lands of Elsick and Muchalls. All the rest of the property was pur- chased by William, Earl Marischal, and by him, about 1647, sold to Colonel David Barclay, son to David Barclay of Mathers, and representative of that family.-f* Parochial Registers, — The oldest record of the kirk-session is a register of baptisms and proclamations of banns of marriage, be- ginning 2d January 1 620, and continuing, with occasional blanks, to 5th February 1643. The following table, although it may show the number of baptisms recorded, cannot be taken as giving an accurate account of the births in the parish. 1620, - 6 '3 baptisms. - 26 marriages. J625, - 23 - 23 1629, - 86 - 16 1635, - 31 .16 1641, - 73 - 26 The oldest register of discipline, &c. begins 15th November • Crawfurd, in the Appendix to the Lives of Officers of State (No. 29), publishes the disposition, as one of the first deeds of this description in (he Scottish language. t It would appear that the sale was not completed in 1651, when the £arl Ma« rischal, being taken prisoner by the English, under Monk, and his estate forfeited, they seized it, together with the lands of Ury, which Colonel D. Barclay had pur- chased from him, on the pretext that the rights of the latter were not fully completed. Upon this, by the advice of the Earl and his other friends, he became elected Mem- ber of Parliament, as the only method left to get possession of his own estate of Ury, as well as to do service to his country and friends. He was so successful, that 1^ got access to his own lands, and obtained large concessions in favour of the £ari Marischal's family (Diary of Alexander Jaffray, p. 26a Lond. 1833). FETTERESSO. 249 1640, and goes on, with many interruptions, till May 1672. It contains the proceedings of the session, and an account of the col- lections and distributions of money for the poor. Among the pro- ceedings of the session, there is recorded a solitary case of witch- craft, April 1659; the result of which, through the mutilation of the register, does not appear. The poor of the parish were divid- ed into three classes, viz. beddels^ those who were conBned by infirmity ; gangreh^ who, although receiving parish aid, were al- lowed to beg from door to door ; and considered persons^ who received aid from the kirk-session, although not placed upon the regular poor's roll like the previous two classes. The number of the parish poor wa^ in the following years, 1656, • 8 beddela. - ]5 gangrels. - 8 considered penoiis. 1661, - 9 .20 -16 1667, - 5 - 18 - 9 In the first of these years, the sum for their support amounted to L.130, 17s. 4d. Scots. There are no registers from 167*2 to 1716. During the trou- bles in 1715, Mr Peter Rose intruded himself into the parish, dur- ing the incumbency of Mr Burn, and, when he departed from it, carried, it is said, the session books along with him, yea, also, the poor's box and its contents. Antiquities. — At no remote period, there were many Druidical remains in the parish, and some still exist. The vestiges of an old camp, (by some supposed to be Roman,) on a rising ground, called Re-dykes (Re-king), have attracted much notice. It is still almost entire, and occupies a space of 71 acres. It was fortified with a wall and ditch. At the distance of about three miles, and close to Stonehaven, there were to be seen, some years ago, remains of a camp, more distinctly Roman. The Romans, in their incursions to the north, seem to have proceeded from the Tay along the great valley of Strathmore, which runs parallel to the Grampian mountains, from Perth to Stonehaven. In this direction, at about twelve miles distance from each other, the stations they occupied appear to have been Strageth, Grassy walls, Meigle, Battledykes, Keithock, Fordoun, Stonehaven, Norman dykes, in the parish of Peterculter, a sta- tion also somewhere near to the burgh of Inverury, and Glen- mailen (called also Re-dykes,) in the vicinity of the source of the Ythan. By this course, it is supposed that Agricola, hav- ing subdued the most southern parts of Scotland, led an army of 26,000 men, during the seventh campaign, through the coun- try of the Horesti (Angus,) towards the north, and fought the 250 KINCARDINE8HIRB. great battle, ^* ad Montem Grampium" against the who mustered SO^OOO, and were led bj their chief Galgacui. Various opinions have been entertained respecting the phee where this great battle was fought. The late Professor Stuart i Marischal College, Aberdeen, (Transactions of the Society oflh Antiquarians of Scotland, Vol. ii. Part 2, p. 289,) after adda- cing many circumstances in support of his opinion that the sc^ieof it was here, observes, ^^ Here (camp near Stonehaven) the RomaB fleet was seen riding at anchor in the bay of Stonehaven, withii less than a league of their camp, where no enemy could intemipt their mutual intercourse. Here Galgacus would see the fleet equal- ly well from the hills above« and might justly be made to exclaim * imminente nobis classe Romana ;' and from this place Tacitus might properly say, upon Agricola's retreat southward, after the battle, " exercitum in fines Horestorum deducit.' " On this matter it is only remarked, that the entrenchment at Re-dykes is strongest towards the sea, with several outworks oo that side, an evidence that the enemy was expected from that quarter ; that along an adjoining hollow, towards the north-east, called Monbois, (Celtic, the moor of death), and on a lower hill, called Kempstone hill, (Kemp, a fight,) many stones were scat- tered, and some of them large single ones on end ; that on Cantlav hills, there is a large cairn which never was examined ; that va- rious pieces of armour, chariot wheels, &c. have been found in the vicinity, some of which are now in the Advocates* Library, Edin- burgh, Marischal College, Aberdeen, and Fetteresso Castle ; and that, in the neighbourhood of the camp at Stonehaven, many sepul- chraUurns were, not long ago, discovered, and near the cairn, in which they had been deposited, a stone pavement, on which, from the remains of ashes, it would appear that bodies had been burnt. In the second volume of the Transactions of the Societv of Antiquaries, p. 462, Professor Stuart communicates the result of an examination of a tumulus opened near the seat of R. W. DuflF, Esq. in this parish. The Professor conjectures that this may have been the place where Malcolm I. of Scotland was interred. In November 1837, there were discovered, about an hundred yards to the southward of the tomb last mentioned another ancient burial-place, measuring 3 feet in length, 2 in breadth, and 20 inches in depth. It contained the remains of a human body, which had been laid on its right side, with the face towards the south. The limbs had been bent upwards, and it FETTERESSO. 251 appeared that one of the leg bones had been broken near the mid- dle. An nm about six inches in depth, and 28 in circumference, was found lying in the tomb, as if it had been folded in the arms of the corpse. Upwards of a hundred jet beads were discovered over the breast of the corpse, perhaps having formed ornanients on the edge of the urn. It may be only farther noticed here, that, on the top of a rock adjoining the ^ea at Cowie, there remain vestiges of a building, generally called the castle of Cowie. It must have been but of very limited dimensions, not Btted for the residence of the Thanes.* Most likely, it served only as a place of refuge in danger. There are similar remains along the coast southward. Distinguished Families. — Many ofthe noble families* of Scotland are descended from the Erasers, of whom notice has been taken. The estate of Durris, the last property belonging to them in this coun- try, after being, for aconsiderable period, in the possession of the Mor- daunts. Earls of Peterborough, came into the Gordon family, and was excambed for lands in the upper district of Banffshire, which are now the property of the Duchess Dowager of Richmond, as heiress of entail to her brother, George, last Duke of Gordon. Family of MariscliaL-^The family of Marischal, the history of which is well known, had their principal abode, for many genera* tions, at Fetteresso. To this place James II. repaired, imme* diately after landing at Peterhead, in the year 1715. From that period may be dated the total downfal of a race, which had been conspicuous in the annals of the country, from the time of Malcolm II., who began his reign in 1104. About the year 1540, the family of Marischal was possessed of the greatest landed estate in Scotland, the rental of it amounting to 270,000 merks, or L. 14,208, 6s. 8d. Sterling, and it was so situated, that, in travelling from the north point of Caithness to the borders of England, the Earl of Marischal could sleep (it has been said) every night on his own property. In latter times, it became much em- barrassed ; wadsetting, on every hand, almost close to the places of residence, having prevailed. Many were in existence even down to the time of sale by the York* Buildings Company in 1782. Family of Barclay of Ury. — Although the property of Ury did not come into possession of the family of Barclay until J 647, that family is of very long standing in the county of Kincardine. In the foundation charter of the Abbey of * Wigton, Twecddale, Hamilton, Gordoiii sad others. 252 KINCARDINESHIRE. Arbroath, from William the Lion, I178»*— in coD?eyiiig to that institution the lands of Mondynes, in the parish of For- doun, it is said, ^^ Dedi etiam eis unam carucatam terre in Mooe- thyne, super aquam de Bervyne, quam Willus de Munfort et Ua^fidus de Berkeley^ et Walterus Bcotus et Alanus, filius Synnh iriljpillj^llli probi homines, mei per preceptum meum eis mensura- verbnt.** This is, perhaps, the earliest notice of the name, whid was changed to Barclay in the fifteenth century. In 1351, tbe family became possessed of the estate of Mathers, in the southen district of the county, and retained it for nearly 300 years. No individual of this race has been so conspicuous as the au- thor of the Apology for the Quakers. He cannot be claimed as a native of this parish, having been born in Morayshire, at the resi- dence of his grandfather. Sir Robert Gordon of Gordonston, the historian of the house of Sutherland. He resided, however, at Ury, for the greater part of his life, and died there on the 3d of August 1690, not having completed the forty-second year of his age. His body lies in the family burial ground, the most elevat* ed spot on the property, in a small building, commonly called the Houff; in which are also interred the remains of his son, grand- son, and great grandson, !all bearing the same name. With regard to his religious system, there must be difference of opinion ; but, there has been only one opinion, with respect to the extent of his erudition, the amiableness of his temper, and the continual bene- ficent tenor of his life. Mansion- Houses. — On the north bank of the Carron, the late Mr Duff partly rebuilt, and greatly extended the ancient abode of the family of Marischal, and Fetteresso Castle is now one of the most extensive and commodious places of residence in the north of Scotland. Adjoining it is a large park, in which are many trees of great size, and much thriving young'wood, all en- closed, and kept in the best order. Ury, the seat of R. Barclay Allardice, Esq. is a mansion of moderate size. It was built by the family of Hay of Errol, and must have been originally intended for a place of defence. The walls are very thick, and every floor is arched with stone. It is situated on a steep bank of the Cowie. This house is the most striking object that meets the eye of a traveller from the south, as he approaches towards Stonehaven. The park is very exten« sive, and the adjoining fields are in the highest state of cultivation* There are some venerable trees, much hard-wood, planted by FETTEUESSO. 253 former proprietors, which will soon be of great value, and much, planted by the present Mr Barclay, in a thriving state. Around a great part of the domain, a high wall of stone and lime has been built. This is, perhaps, one of the finest seats in any part of the country. ._ About a mile west of Ury, and also on the north bfldMlHiiB Cowie, is Rickarton, where is an excellent modern house, beau- tifully situated, but not having the advantage of a surrounding park. At Netherley, the property of George Silver, Esq. there is a large commodious house, and much has been done, under unfa- vourable circumstances, to improve and ornament the neighbour- hood of it. At Muchalls, too, the property of the same gentleman, there is a venerable old house, already noticed as long the residence of the family of Burnett, Bart, of Leys. It is situated on a rising ground, near the sea, about four miles north of Stonehaven, and around it is a large tract of valuable land, generally kept in grass. Elsick, now belonging to the Rev. Dr Morison, for a long time the property and place of residence of the family of Bannerman, Bart, has a mansion-house of no great extent, surrounded with trees. There is a small house on the estate of Cowie, the property of William Innes, Esq. with a neat paddock and garden embowered in wood, close by the sea, immediately north of Stonehaven. At Newhall and Berry hill, there are good dwelling-houses. III. — Population. Amount of population in 1 755, return to Dr Webster, - 9082 1764« by an exact survey, - 3500 1790, . do. . 3370 lH01,bv census, - . 3687 1811, 'do. - . 4252 1821, do. . - 4486 1831, do. . - 5109 1841, do. - . 5155 IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Until after the year 1760, there was, in this dis- trict, little change in the system of agriculture from that which' had been practised for many generations. In fact, no regular system was pursued, and the produce of the land must have been very little, in comparison to that which has since taken place, and which is to be principally attributed to the late Mr Barclay of Ury. By his sound judgment, undaunted resolution, and unfailing steadiness, a complete revolution in agriculture was effected, not only on his own estate in this parish, but through all the adjoining 254 KINCARDINBSHIRE. couDtry. His system waS| at the very first, singularly complete; for Dot many great real improvements have since been made upon it The soil varies in the different districts. There is, indeed, every variety known in the country. The most productive is foiU94 ^ ^^^ eastern part of the lands of Fetteresso and Ury, the southevn part of Cowie, and eastern of Muchalls. There is some good soil, too, on the Rickarton prof>erty, and around the home of Elsick. In other parts of the parish, it declines frpm moderate to the very worst. Even in the least naturally ^od, great indus- try is exercised, and improvement effected. To this, the exten- sive mosses in the western district contribute. Many settlers in their neighbourhood occupy themselves in preparing* peats for sak in Stonehaven ; and in carrying on this branch of industry, sus- tenance, often too poor indeed, must be provided for the horses employed. Year after year, moorland, to a limited extent, is re- claimed in the northern properties. Even when profit from fuel is not the object, waste land is coming gradually into cultivation, particularly on the estate of Rickarton, which, of late years, has, through judicious management, risen more in rental than perhaps, in proportion to former value, any property in the country. Ex- cept on it, and part of the great common of Cowie, there is not now much uncultivated ground, the improvement of which is likelv to be remunerating. Much has been done, and very much is still needed, in draining the land. Great attention is paid to the selection of grain for seed, and in procuring manure from Stonehaven, and even from Aberdeen. Important aid in this respect arises from bone-dust, the use of which is, year after year, more extended. In many cases farm manure is not so well managed as it ought to be; and the opportunity, which might be extensively embraced of construct^ ing dunghills on the excellent Meadowbank system, is neglected, or so conducted as to be ineffectual. Without the renooval ot the antiseptic principle by fermentation, moss remains, though mixed with animal manure, in its original state. Possessions vary greatly in extent. The highest rent paid by an individual tenant does not exceed L. 450, and there are not many rents exceeding L. 200. A great part of the tenants have but one plough each. For some time past, but little wheat has been sown. This year (1841) the extent was about forty acres. In the neighbourhood of Stonehaven, a good deal of land of a clayey description is occu- FETTERESSO. 255 pied in raising beans. The principal grain crops are oats and bar- ley. Of the former every species known in the country is sown, and change of seed frequently procured from other districts. The prices of grain being now principally regulated by weight ; in seve-^ ral districts, where the soil is of an inferior quality, the cuItivatioQ of barley and Chester bear is discontinued, and oats, as more re* munerating, substituted in their room. Many courses of rotation of cropping are in use. Among them, Istf turnips, barley, grass, oats; 2 tain. At the Martinmas Stonehaven market, the prices were, oats, 8s. to 9s, per boll; meal, 10s. 6d. , barley, lOs. to 12s. Barley, for which at tho time he was of- fered lis., a tenant on the estate of Ury, (who, no doubt, often, greatly to his loss, was accustomed long to retain his grain when prices were unsati.sfactory), afterwards sold at L. 1, 10s. to L.2, and the remainder, in autumn 1817, biinging him nearl? L.500 at L.3, 3s. per boll. FETTERESSO. 257 Altempts to obtain a correct statement of the produce of industry in so extensive a parish have failed. The average of barley crops in the better districts may be estimated at 5 quarters per acre ; of oats, 5^ : in the inferior, barley, or Chester bear, 3^ ; oats, 4. Very great crops have been raised, 18 bolls of wheat per acre, 12 to 14 bolls of oats, &c. ; but averages are often overrated, as the experience of many a tenant has unfortunately proved. A considerable part of the best land is laid down in permanent pasture, particularly on the estates of Fetteresso, Ury, and Mu- challs. It is let annually on the first and- last of these, at rents of from L.2 to L. 4 per acre, to butchers, cattle-dealers, and fre- quently to farmers, who sell their hay crop, most injudiciously, and pay for pasture for their young stock. A very large sum is drawn for dairy produce. From the north- ern district, the Aberdeen market is weekly attended, for the sale of butter, cheese, poultry, eggs, &c. and from the southern, that of Stonehaven. There are dealers in these articles in several places, besides, within the parish. Almost every tenant now keeps pigs. Even in Stonehaven there are many. They are purchased by pork-merchants, when they reach from five to seven stones weight, are slightly salted, and sent for immediate use to London in casks, each contaming a hundred-weight. About 600 were, in 1841, thus disposed of, average weight six stones, and price 5s., amount L.900. Mr Barclay of Ury has, from time to time, taken under his own management farms on his property, (originally improved in part by his father), and renewed that productiveness which tenants had allowed to fall off, by fresh application of lime, manuring, drain- ing, and in several instances, spade trenching, at a great expense. Some of these farms he has re-let, at advanced and remunerating rents. He has now, under his immediate charge, above. 600 acres, surrounding his mansion-house, and forming one of the most beau- tiful farms to be seen in any part of the country. Every variety of soil is found in it, and all is kept in the very highest order. A considerable part consists of old pasture, in forming compost for the top-dressing of which, 12,000 loads of moss have been used, with much beneficial effect* The whole of the farm is enclosed, fully wa- tered, and sheltered by stone walls, hedges, and plantations. When a field, which has been for a long course of years in grass, is broken up for culture, the course pursued is, Ut year, oats; 2e/, barley ; 8(/, turnips, consumed on the ground by sheep ; 4//<, barley ; 5M, grass, KINCARDINE. R 258 EINCARDINEBHIRK. made into hay ; Gth, pasture. Excqit in the case of land vl has, for many years, been under pasturage, two graio crops in i cession are not taken; and the Gre course shift is geDeralljr »A ed. When raising vheat, the rotation is, of course, differenL laying down land for permanent pasture, Mr Bsrciay adds to i ver and rye-grass many additional seeds, according to the nal of the soil. The first expense is considerable ; but a close sm is formed, even in the second year, and on ground of but ia ferent quality ; and the grasses coming forward at successive i SODS, &om early spring to late autumn, there is a continued sup The greater part of the turnip crop is consumed on thegrounc sheep, or these, he has generally a flock of upwards of 10 They are of the Leicester breed, procured originally from E land. The mutton of this species is not extensively used in country. Ii finds market principally at London, to which sheep are sent by steam- vessels from Aberdeen. The wool is i to Leeds manufacturers. The sheep, at two years, often re in weight to 25 lbs. per quarter, and the fleeces to 8 lbs.* Perhaps the most important matter in farming proceedings, which be is engaged, is the rearing of Teeswaler, or sbort-hi cattle. He introduced this breed in the year 1824, hanog: lected bulls and heifers from the most celebrated stocks in I counties of York and Durham. He has, ever since, continued uni mittingly to attend to it, and is considered to have at present one ihe finest and thoroughly pure stocks in Britain ; the number bei seldom under thirty or forty cows and heifers, besides other classi The introduction of this breed forms an important era in catti rearing in the north of Scotland, over most districts of which pi duce from Ury is now to be found. Indeed, many animals ha been sent from it into England, Ireland, and several places on 1: continent. Notwithstanding' the annual sales have gone on 1 many years, and the breed is now so widely spread, the pric continue very high. At the sale of last autumn, the bull calv of from four to nine months old averaged L.40 a head. These c cumstances jirove Ihe estimation in which the breed is held. If be the case, as is asserted, that the beef of the best Scotch catt fetches only about 5 per cent, above that of the Teeswater ; tb the Scotch cattle cannot be properly fed for the butcher, unl three and a half years old, while the short horns can be made f. at two and a half, or less ; that native bullocks weigh, at two an FETTERE880. 259 a halfy SO stones Dutch, while even a cross with the Teeswater of the same age weighs from 50 to 60, — the cross having much of the gentle tempers and quickly feeding qualities of the pure short- horn :-— if these be facts, they must go far to settle the point, both as to the pure breed and the cross, in regard to their introduction on forms, where adequate provender and shelter for summer and winter can be supplied. The crossing system has been advantageously pursued by Mr Barclay, he having had, for several years, about forty cows of the West Highland breed, (preferred, not only on account of their form properties, but also their hardy nature), rearing calves to Teeswater bulls. At the last sale, those from twelve to eighteen months old averaged L.12 ahead. Plantations. — These occupy about 2000 acres. On some of the higher grounds On the Fetteresso and Ury properties, owing to the nature of the subsoil, the trees long ago planted did not succeed. In more favourable situations, the success has been great ; and much valuable wood of every kind usually produced in the coun- try is every year disposed of. Larches have unfortunately, in se- veral localities, been lately in i\n unthriving state. Mr Robertson, in his Agricultural Report of the county of Kin^ cardine (1808), states that of the 24,914 acres to which this pa- rish extends, above a third was then in cultivation ; that about a tenth more was susceptible of cultivation ; and about a twelfth part was under plantation. It is supposed, that there are now 10,000 acres under tillage, and 2000 in plantations. The rent at that period amounted to L.7427; in 1794, L.4200. Its state in 1840 was as follows : Ury, L. 4000 a year; Fetteresso, L.3328; Ne- therley, Monquiech, and Muchalls, L.3d97 ; Rickarton, L.1604; Cowie, L.138d; Rothnick, L.300; part of the Dunnottar estate, L.6; and the common of Cowie, L.20.* The property of £lsick was feued in ten lots, about the year 1760, by the magistrates of * This tract of uncultivated ground extends to 2774 Scotch acres. Of this, 5J2 acres consist of peat moss, the rest of heath interspersed with coarse grass. Length • ened judicial proceedings took place about the right to this common, which issued in a decree, confirmed, on appeal, by the House of Lords, in April 1824, finding, that " the whole forest, muir, and commonty of Cowie belongs to Sir Alexander Keith of Dunnottar, subject to the rights of servitude, which the other heritors may be able to instruct over the same.*' Of this common, 828 acres are claimed as property by some of the neighbouring heritors. A considerable part might be rendered arable at no very great expense ; but no attempt at cultivation can be made until a division be effected, and to this there are serious obstacles, arising from the great number of persons who claim rights of servitude. In the meantime, the different conterminous heritors or their tenants pasture cattle and sheep on the common. Great quantities of peats are taken from the mosses, and of sods from the surface of the grouno^-^thereby, year after year, destroying the means of (5 * ?• ^ •.. .. m. stated arises from the privilege of shooting. year after year, destroying the means of ibnning a soil for cultivation. The rent ■ivil( 260 KINCARDINESHIRE. Aberdeen, as managers of Guild Brethren's Hospital there,— tbe feu-duty amounting to 188 bolls of oatmeal annually. It is not, after many changes, in the hands of eleven individuals. The ren- tals are, Jellybrands, Chapelton, and Newtonhill, L.8I4; Ekick and Cairnhill, L..526; Newhall, L.359; Cammackmore, L264; Monduff, L.185; Quoschies, L.l:24; Cairngressie, L.I22; Ber- ry hill, L.98; Wedderhill, L.78; Beltcraigs, L.67. The exiil- ing rental of land in the parish may be considered as amouDdng ' to Ia 16,800; and that of property in the New town of Stoiw- faaven, as assessed under the act for making provision for the pooT) including Bridge-end of Arduthie, a separate property, but all built upon, to L.dl91. Valued rent, L.65d4, 4s. 2d. Scotch. Fisheries. — There are three fishing-stations, one at Cowie, where there are 8 boats ; one at Shanathro, 4 ; and one at Sket- raw, 7 ; each having a crew consisting of five men. Fishing of cod and ling is now not so much pursued as formerly. Haddocks are the principal object. After supplying the neighbourhood with what is required in a fresh state, part during the summer season is dried on the beach, and called speldings. A part is smoked with peat, in the manner well known by the name of Pindon. A much greater part, for some past years, has been smoked in houses pre- pared for the purpose, by wood. A very large quantitv of these, from all the stations, is carried by cadgers to Forfar and Perth- shires, and by coaches and sea-carriage to Edinburgh and Glas- gow; a great deal also by steam-vessels from Aberdeen to Lon- don. Cod and ling are dried on the beach as well as haddocks, and a considerable quantity salted and forwarded in casks to diffe- rent markets. All kinds of fish commonly found on this coast form part of the produce of the fishery with those enumerated. The drying, smoking, and pickling processes are now generallv in the hands of contractors, who receive the fish, at stipulated prices, from the fishermen immediately after their arrival from sea. Almost all the persons employed in fishing are, during the her- ring season, occupied in that department. Those in this parish have been accustomed to fish at Peterhead and Fraserbur^rh • of late years, however, several of them at Stonehaven, where they have been very successful; and most likely few or none will, in fu- ture seasons, proceed to distant places. The number of boats thus employed, for some time past, has amounted to 15, each hav- ing five men. Their tonnage is from 20 to 80 tons. PBTTEUESSO. 261 There are several salmon-fisheries in this parish let to tenants. The principal is in the bay of Stonehaveni where the process is conducted by cobles, and stake and bag-nets; at Muchalls and other placeSy almost entirely by the last of these modes. There are no river fishings. Only a small part of the salmon is consum- ed in the neighbourhood, the greater part being sent to the Lon- don market. Even in favourable seasons, the quantity procured is not great, as may be supposed from the rents not exceeding L.100 a year. . Brewery. — A brewery, long established in Stonehaven, supplies the town, and a wide circuit of the adjoining country with beer, &c. Distillery. — A distillery was commenced on the Cowie, close by Stonehaven, in 1824, known as the Glenury Royal Distillery. From time to time, it was extended until capable of manufacturing upwards of 6000 quarters of barley annually. The buildings are ex- tensive and substantial,, and the utensils of the best description. The proprietors having offered the work for sale, distillation has lately been carried on but to a limited extent. Manufactures, — There are two mills on the Carron, at Stone- haven. One, not now occupied, has been used for spinning both flax and wool. The other continues to be employed in wool-spinning, principally for persons in the country districts. It is on a limited scale. Only a small quantity of cloth is manufactured by individuals for family use. Still some is made, chiefly of home-grown wool, and there are weavers for such work in several parts of the pa- rish. In Stonehaven and neighbourhood, many, several years ago, were occupied in weaving dowlas, duck, and sacking, for ma- nufacturers in Aberdeen and Montrose. The number does not exceed now 85, including females and boys, and they are far from being constantly employed. Even when they are employed, after working from very early in the morning to very late at night, a man, in the full vigour of life, often cannot earn above 10s. a- week. Woollen yarn is still given out monthly for knitting into stock- ings, by an Aberdeen company, but the payment allowed is wretchedly low. V. — Parochial Economy. MeoJis of Communication.— The first and greatest work in im- provement in the roads in this parish, was the executing the turn- pike road from the south to Aberdeen, about the year 1797, 262 KINCARDINBSHIBE. Afterwards, 1800, principally through the great exertions of Mr Innes, then tacksman of the whole estate of Durris, a turnpike road was made from Stonehaven to Banchory Teman ; and late- ly, that from Stonehaven to the Dee, by Netherley, has been pot on the same footing. The first two of these have been laid out in the most judicious manner, are kept in the best order, and hate been attended by the most beneficial effects. There are about twenty miles of these roads in the parish. On those under the com- mutation Act of Parliament, great improvements, year after year, have taken place in every district, and farther progress is in view. Town, 8fc. — About the year 1759, the late Mr Barclay of Ury purchased the property of Arduthie.* Soon after, he planned a new town (often still called the Links of Arduthie) along the sea- shore, forming a continuation of Stonehaven, in the parish of Dun- nottar, in which the Sheriff and other courts of Kincardineshire are held. It is built on a regular plan. The feus, each one-eighth of an acre, are given off in perpetuity. At first, the duty was low, but afterwards was raised to L.2 per annum. It made, for a con- siderable period, rapid progress, the population having been io 1801, 770; in 1821, 1635; in 1831, 2064; in 1841, 2061. ' There are in New Stonehaven many excellent houses, to which walled gardens are attached ; others, of an inferior description, suited to various classes in society ; and shops, where goods of every description are always to be obtained. There are, also, tradesmenf of almost every kind. The dwel- ling-houses and shops are lighted by gas ; and the supply of water is abundant There are, of course, villages at the fishing stations. That at Cowie contains 174 inhabitants; at Stranathro, (including the coast-guard establishment in it) 126; at Sketraw, 18.'3. There are 45 persons in the Kirktown. Post-Office^ <§-c. — Two mails from the south, and two from the north, are received at Stonehaven every day. A stage-coach, to and from Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen, passes also everv • The purchase-money was L. 1300. For a long time past, the rental has amount- ed to L. 1000 per annum; — one-half from feu-duties, the other from the landward part ; — a case scarcely paralleled, except in the neighbourhood of large and nume- rously peopled towns. f Stonehaven, though the head town of Kincardineshire, would appear to hare had no public baker in 1604. It is stated in the session records, that, on the sacraiuen. tal occasion in that year ** there was given Jean Dickie 8s. for goeing to Montrose for the bread.** FETTERES80. 263 day ; and a coach to and from Aberdeen and Stonehaven, four times a-week. The Aberdeen and Edinburgh steamers call on their way ; and there are carriers in constant employment in every direction. Dispensary. — The poor receive medical advice, are visited in their houses, and supplied with medicines. The establishment is supported by contributions from the inhabitants. The services of the physician are gratuitously afforded. Bank, — A branch of the Aberdeen Town and County Bank is established in the town. Savings Bank. — Soon after the introduction of these institu- tions, one was established for this, and the neighbouring parish of Dunnottar. Its funds have always been increasing, and now the deposits amount to upwards of L. 14,000. Harbour, — The parish is principally supplied with coals, lime, &C. from the harbour of Stonehaven, close to its southern boun- dary ; and from it, grain and other produce are exported. Coals and lime, to a limited extent, are imported, during the summer season, at a creek at Elsick, formerly mentioned. Markets. — There is a weekly market at Stonehaven, on Thurs- day, when butler, cheese, poultry, eggs, &c are exposed for sale. On that day there is a market for grain, during its season, attended by the farmers of the adjoining district ; and in winter and spring, for cattle. Immediately previous to Candlemas, Whitsunday, Mar- tinmas, and Christmas, the market is for cattle, feeing of servants, &C. Fairs, formerly at Megray, about two miles north, for cattle and horses, in June and September, are now held in Stonehaven. Butcher-meat is to be there procured every day. At Muchalls, there are cattle fairs, at several seasons of the year, generally well attended. Innsy fSfC, — There are 40 houses licensed for the sale of spirits, &C. — in Stonehaven, 25 (five of which have wine licenses) ; in the villages of Cowie, Stranathro, and Sketraw, 7 ; and along the roads, in different districts, S. The number in Stonehaven, in 1 838, was [32. It is hoped that the cause of abstinence from in- toxicating liquors, at present favourably advancing, will continue to make progress, and public-houses, year after year, become less common. Horticulture. — There are good gardens at the seats of several of the proprietors, a particularly fine old terraced one at Ury, and a conservatory and hot-house at Fetteresso Castle. Much 2(i4 KINCAUDINESHIRC. attention has, of late years, in this respect, been paid by persons in Stonehaven. The quantity of fruit there produced is great, and, in many cases, of high quality. Ecclesiastical State. — The picturesque remains of the church of Cowie,* strike the eye of every traveller on the road leading to and from Stonehaven ; the effect, no doubt, injured by its having had placed close to it a dead-house, lately erected. It was dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary. Its length is 67 feet, and width 18^; and it is surrounded by a burial-ground, in which many bodies con- tinue to be interred. Cowie does not appear to have ever formed a separate parish from Fetteresso. The church seems to have been a private chapel for the accommodation of the proprietors and their feudal retainers. The chapelry was conveyed to Mari- schal College Aberdeen, by the original charter of George, Earl Marischal, in 1593, but reserved by the charter of ratification of William, Earl Marischal, son of the former, in 1623. At the Re- formation, the value of the benefice was estimated at 24 bolls of bear. In 1601, Mr Andrew Milne, minister of the parish, received a' grant of the third of it»+ * Cowie seems to have been, in ancient timesi a place of greater importance than ks present appearance would give ground fur supposing. There is a charter in Maru- chal College Aberdeen, dated i^Kh October 1367, >* By Alicia, relict of the deceased John son of . . . of Cowy, to her well-beloved cousin, Allan of Gilnafoyet, of four acres belonging to her, with the buildings of the same, lying in the north part of the village of Cowy." Keyth says — ** At the mouth of Cowy water, is a free burgh called Cowie vettuia magii qtam opuletifa, by reason of the want of a shore or seaport for shipa. There is to be seen beneath the town, the ruines of a castle, built, as is suppo&edt by Mal- colm Can more ; the town of Cowie made a free burgh by the said king. Besides these ruins, there is an old chappel, called the Kirk of Cowie, and a chaplaincy be- longing thereto, given out by the king of old ; and the parson of Fettercss bath a portion of the said chaplaincy given to him by the king's donation to this day. *< 'llierc be many crofls of land yet, beside this ruinous castle and the town of Cowie that have their several denominations from the several office-men of the said palace, as Cooks-croft, Portcr-cVoft, Stable-croft, Stewart croft, and have their several char- ters to this effect** No authority is known in support of these statements by Mr Keith. It appears, however, from the baptism register, that the Earls of Marischal, and other persons of high respectability, were on habits of social intercourse, at a much later period, with persons there residing. f The grant was as follows: — " Cure Soueranc Lord remembering the gude, trew, and thankfuU seruices done to his heines at all occasions be his louit Maister Andro Mylne. Minister of Fetteresso, especiallie in the common affaires of the kirk, considering also the lang, crnest, and profit^iblc travcllis tane and sustenit be him in his ordiner functioun of the ministcrie without any sufficient stipend, or worthy re- compence maid to him thairfbir, the personage of Fetteresso, quhairunto he is pro- yydit, being set of auid be his prcdccc*-sors for ane small silver dewtie, quhilk is not able to sustane him c%invcnientlie as becometh, and his heines being of good inten- tion to incurage the said Mr Andro to continew in the honest discharge of the said functioun) thairfoir ordains ane letter, &c. givand, grantand, and disponand to the said Maister Andro, during all the days of his lyftyme, all and haill the thrid &f the chaplainrie of Cowie, extending yearly to aucht bollis heir, &c." The church to have been demoUslied at the time of the Reformation. FETTER ESSO. 26 > The former parish church was situated close on the southern boundary, rather more than a mile from Stonehaven. It must have been very ancient, but without any claim to architectural importance. Its walls still remain, having been purchased by Mr Duff of Fetteresso, and it is not likely that they will be de- molished but by the hand of time. Although its length was cur« tailed in 1720, when a small aisle was built opposite the pulpit, it still was in length 94 feet, while its width was only 19. In 1813, an excellent new church, fitted to accommodate 1400 sit- ters, was erected, near Stonehaven, and, at the same time, a cor- responding manse. There is attached to the former church an extensive buriaU ground, in which, on an average of seventeen past years, seventy- six corpses have been annually laid. For a considerable period, commencing about the year 1760, there was a small place of worship at Newhall, in the northern district of the parish. It was known by the name of the Sod Kirk^ having, at first, most likely, either been built of, or covered with turf. Latterly, it was tile-roofed. It had always been a wretched place, and at last became altogether ruinous. In 1816, great exertions were made for procuring a better and larger build- ing ; and a house, accommodating 400 sitters, was erected at Cookney, on the property of Muchalls. It having become insuf- ficient for its object, fresh exertions were made, which resulted in a church, in which 700 are properly accommodated. In promot- ing this important object, the late Mr Silver of Netherley was in every way powerfully efficient. In this district, far distant from the parish church, there are 1400 members of the Establishment, exclusive of nearly 300 who are connected with an Episcopal chapel, also on the estate of Mu- challs. At Cookney, worship is regularly conducted on Sabbath by a preacher, who is also second parochial schoolmaster ; and, by permission of the presbytery of Fordoun, the sacrament of the supper is annually administered by the minister of the parish. At the celebration of it, in May last, 510 communicants joined in the sacred ordinance. *'^ It is to be remarked that, after the Reformation of religion in this kingdom in Queen M arie*s time, this chapel being demolished by reason of superstitious resort- ing thereto, a certain man called William liuit of iledclock brought away some of the roof of this chapel and built a house therewith ; and a little thereafter the whole house rained drops of blood. There be some living yet that can testify this.*' ** Keyth's remarkable things, &c/*— See Description of the Coast between Aberdeen and Leith, by Mr Duncan, p. 10. Aberdeen, 1837. 266 KINCARDINESHIRE. Of the Episcopal persuasion, to which, with few exceptions, the Bshermen at the three stations belong, besides those in the north* ern, there are about 250 in the southern district Of the United Secession Church, there are 120 members in full communioD, who, with their families, worship in a commodious building at Stonehaven. There are also a few families of the Methodist con- nection, and one of the Roman Catholic. The following is a list of the ministers of Fetteresso from the Reformation to the present time : — Mr John ChristesouD, minis- ter of Fetteresso, Dunnottar, and Glenbenrie, 1567. Archibald Rait, reader at Fetteresso, 1567-1576. Mr Patrick Browo, died 1 579. Mr Andrew Milne,* translated from Dunnottar , November 1579 ; died 1605. Mr Andrew Milne, Junior, admitted 1605 ; died October 12, 1640. Mr Patrick Leslie, translated from Skene, 1640. Mr John Milne,t 1676; died January 1708, Mr John Webster, admitted March Idth 1705 ; translated to New Deer, April 1707. Mr David Burn, admitted November 2d, 1709 ; died May 1749. Mr Alexander Forbes, admitted Fe- bruary 1750; died January 1759. Mr John Ballantyne, admitted June 1760; died October 1762. Mr William Shank, admitted February 1763 ; died in August following. Mr John Hutcbeon, admitted 1764; died February 27, 1800. Mr George Thom- son, (the present incumbent), admitted September 18tfa 1800.^ The present incumbent, on entering on his office, was told by several persons, that he was the sixth minister of the parish whom they had seen. Considering the period during which his imme- diate predecessor filled the charge, the circumstance appeared very remarkable ; but the above statement will show its consisten- cy with truth. The stipend consists of 17 chalders, half barley, half oatmeal, paid in money, according to the county fiars prices, the average of which, for the last seven years, has been for barley, L. 1, 6s. 9id. • Mr Andrew Milne, Senior, was schoolmaster of Montrose, and the preceptor of Mr James Melville, who. in his Diary, speaks of him as a ** lerned, honest, kynd man, veric skilfull and dih'gent." He was appointed minister at Dunlappy in 1571, whence he was translated to Dunnottar in 1.578. He appears to have been much em- ployed in the ecclesiastical affairs of the period. f- On the death of Mr Milne in 1703, Mr Gideon Guthrie, an Episcopal preacher intruded himself into the church and manse, with the connivance of Earl Marischal* the patron, and retained possession till May 1709, when he was ejected by a sentence of the Court of Justiciary. X For the information contained in the above list, and kind aid in this report, graUful acknowledgmenU are offered to Mr G. R. Kinloch of Edinburgh, and also to Mr Duncan of Aberdeen, — both eminent for their attainments in every branch of antiquarian knowledge. PETTERBSSO. 207 per quarter, and for meal, 17s. 7^d. per boll. The glebe is rather more than eight acres in extent. Education, — There are two parochial schools, one situated in the south, the other in the northern district ; the first having at- tached to it the maximum, the second, the minimum salary. There are, besides, in Stonehaven, and in several places in thecoun. try part of the parish, — some schools more especially for females, which are all unendowed, with the exception of two. That at Cairn- hill was established by the Rev. Dr Morison, (minister of Ban- chory Devenick), proprietor of the estate of Elsick, who has pro- vided a school-room, lodging, and a garden, for the teacher, and also, as annual salary, the interest of L.100. The other was found- ed by the late Mr William Donaldson of Quoschies, who, by his latter will, conveyed to trustees the lands of Beltcraigs, and a te- nement in Stonehaven, for the purpose of educating fifty or more poor children, two-thirds of the number from the parish of Fetter- esso, and one-third from the parish of Dunnottar. The school was opened in June 1838, and 60 young persons have since that time attended it, vacancies having, twice a year, been filled up. In order to bring the property into a state efficient for its object, a considerable expenditure was necessary* At a period not very distant, the revenue will be improved ; and the benefits of the in- stitution, already happily experienced, will, according to the wishes of the benevolent founder of it, be more and more extended. At the parochial and several of the other schools, the means of a liberal education are afibrded. Comparatively few, however, now apply themselves to the learned languages. It may be stated, that there are generally in the parish at least twelve teachers em- ployed ; and that the number of persons attending them amounts on an average, to 600, and 400 at Sabbath schools. Poor. — When ability for regular labour, either from loss of health, or advanced age, is gone, and through improvidence or otherwise nothing of any importance has been laid up, the resource ^ is an apartment in a town, and very commonly speedy destitution follows. Not many years ago, there were in Stonehaven nine Friendly Societies, the number of the members of which (a great part residenters in this parish) amounted to nearly 1700. None of them now exist. These institutions were founded on unsound principles, ihe contributions for their support bearing no proper proportion to the allowances proposed to be granted. Their dis- ^ 268 KINCARDINESHIRE. continuaDce has thrown on the poor's funds many sick widows, and orphans. But the principal cause of increased pauperism may be considered to have been the great change that has taken place in regard to manufactures. Formerly the females of every family were occupied in spinning and knitting ; the daughters of respec- table farmers plied their wheels industriously ; and even the old and infirm, in many cases, by knitting stockings, earned a conside- rable portion of their own maintenance. But all this is now near- ly over. <0 ^ At the end of the last century, it appears . that the number of wi^ poor receiving supply was about 40, and that the provision for them amounted annually to about L.40. The provision afterwards be- came much greater, but the number of the poor increased, from causes already stated, and particularly from strangers coming into Stonehaven with limited property, on the exhaustion of which, after three years' residence, (too short a period), a claim for aid was established. For a considerable period, the weekly church collections averaged L.100 a-year. This sum, however, with the other means, did not keep pace with the prevailing wants. At last, it was resolved that there should be a statutory as- sessment. This measure has been in existence for two years; and has produced the annual amount of L.400, at the rate of 3d. per L, 1 on the real rental of proprietors, and 2d. on the ^1 means and substance of the other inhabitants. The weekly , collections, as might be expected, have greatly fallen off. The V? number of poor on the roll, including lunatics, the support of whom in asylums has often borne very hard on the funds, is now ^ about 110, who are supplied quarterly, monthly, weekly, or oc- vA casionally, according to their respective circumstances* They ^>^ have the interest of L.50, a legacy from the late Sir Thomas ^ Bannerman, and share with the parish of Dunnottar in the inte- ^%s rest of L.200, the gift to the poor of Stonehaven, and immediate neighbourhood, of the late Mr Stevens of Broadland. There is also, under the charge of the minister and elders, property be- queathed by two sisters of the name of Duns. Until a house, forming part of that bequest, be disposed of, the amount of this benefaction cannot be ascertained ; but, it is hoped, that it will extend to L.500. Family Names. — Some of the names frequently occurring in the more ancient registers, do not now exist in the parish. Of ST CYRUS. 269 646 male heads of families, 21 are of the sirname of Milne, 18 of RobertsoD, and 15 of Thomson. These may be considered the names now most prevalent. March 1842. PARISH OF ST CYRUS OR ECCLESGREIG.* PRESBYTBRY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. ALEXANDER KEITH, D. D., MINISTER. THE REY. ALEXANDER KEITH, A.M. Assist, and Successor, I. — Topography and Natural History. Names. — In the former Statistical Account of this parish, it was stated, for no better reason, so far as is now known, than that Ec- clesgreigis nearly idem sonans with " Ecclesia Gregoriiy^ — that the ancient name is evidently of Latin origin, and probably derived from the dedication of the church to St Gregory the Great, or to some other Romish bishop or missionary of that name. Perhaps it may be more probably referred to the Gaelic, in which language, the words, EaglaUcreag^ or gen. Eaglais-craige^ signify " the church of the rock," and well describe the singularly picturesque situa- tion of the ancient church of the parish, — " the rock^** forming the most prominent object in the picture, being a lofty sea-cliflT, of nearly two miles in extent, under the shelter and close to the base of which, the " church" stood. No remains of the church now exist, but its site is marked by a church-yard, still used as the principal burying-ground in the parish. Towards the close of the last century, the parish came to be generally known by the name of St Cyrus, the original designation, as it ap- pears, of that district of the parish in which the modern church is * Drawn up by Mr James Murray, parochial schoolmaster of St Cyrus. I This clergyman, whose name was David Campbell, appears, according to Wod- row*s *' roll of ministers who were banished, turned out of their parishes, or con- fined in 1663,- to have been the only clergyman in the " Presbytery of the Mearns,*' who did not conform to Prelacy at that period. The name Ecclesgreig, it may be mentioned, was at one time applied exclusively to that section of the parish, called, in an old charter of the lands of Kirkiidtf, " the ecclesiastical lands of Eoclesgreig, aliai Kirksyde.'* ^70 KINCARDINESHIRE* situated, and conjectured to have been derived from the residenee of a Romish ecclesiastic of that name on the adjacent lands of Criggie, or Mount Cyrus, where a field and a spriog of water still retain the name of the saint Situation^ $*c. — The parish lies «at the extreme southern angle of the Mearns, and is ' separated on the south-west side from tbe parishes of Montrose and Logiepert by the river North Esk, which here also marks the confines of the counties of Angus and Mearns. On the north-west, north, stftd north-east,' it is bounded by the parishes of Mary kirk, Garvock, and Benholme, and on the south-east^ by the German Ocean. Its length, in a direction pa- rallel to the general line of the sea-coast, from the North-water bridge to the hill of Bridgeton, is about 5 miles ; its breadth at the former place, about 3^ ; at the latter, about 2^ ; and its area, about 14 square miles. Its figure is nearly that of a parallelo- gram. Surface^ ^c. — Part of the chain of low hills lying between the great valley of the Mearns and the sea, passes through the pa- rish. From the summit of Garvock to the sea-coast, the breadth of the chain is about four miles, and the descent from the former point, which is said to be from 800 to 1000 feet above the sea- level, is by an irregular succession of elongated little hills, which run nearly parallel to the axis of the range, that is, from north- east to south-west. At the western extremity of the parish, the continuity of the range is interrupted by the defile through which the North £sk flows, and again, near the eastern extremity, bv another defile intersecting that portion of it lying within this pa- rish, between the hollow of Garvock and the sea. The hills of Bridgeton and Jackston,in the east, and of Morphy and Pitbeadlav in the west, may be stated at about 500 feet high ; of Snadon, at 450 ; and Brand's hill and Woodston hill, at 630 feet above the sea; the last being the most prominent object in the parish, and situated near its centre. From the circumstance of most of these elevations being insulated from each other by deep valleys and ra- vines, the surface presents many rapid inequalities, and much pleasing diversity of outline. The coast, from the mouth of the North Esk to within half a mile of the fishing village of Johnshaven, is five miles in extent, and juts out into three low rocky promontories, the most southerly forming, with Montrose-Ness, the two headlands, between which ST CYRUS. 271 lies the fine crescent-like bay of Montrose. Behind diese pronion- tones, and removed in some parts, more or less, from the present limit of the highest tides, is a steep and almost continuous escarp- ment, varying from 50 to nearly 300 feet in height, the barrier, according to geologists, of the ancient ocean. This escarpment, is in several places a perpendicular cliff, and is prolonged with somewhat less elevation along the right bank of the North Esk, from its mouth to the junction of this parish with that of Mary* kirk. The only inlet for vessels on the coast is at Sea-greens, where a small harbour has been formed for the admission of the smallest class of coal-ships ; but it is too much exposed to the effects of easterly gales to be secure, and can only be approached In smooth water. In northerly gales, when, from the configuration of the coast, it is found impossible for vessels to proceed in their course northward, the bay of Rockhall affords a convenient an- chorage ; and there, it is no unusual sight to observe from twenty to thirty vessels moored under the shelter of the cliff. About a mile of the coast from the mouth of the river is lined with a flat beach of fine sand, held together by the usual sea- grasses ; the remaining part of it, by belts of shingle, or fragments and exposed strata of low rocks, covered at low water with sea- weed, which has for many years been allowed to vegetate, undis- turbed by the kelp-maker. Temperature^ S^c. — Observations of the thermometer indicate a mean annual temp^rature of from 45^ to 46° Fahrenheit. The mean level of the parish is about 300 feet above the sea, and its temperature must be considerably lower than that of the adjoining parish of Montrose. The springs in the parish give a range of 47^® in September, and 48'* in March. With regard to the ge- neral aspect of the seasons on this part of the coast, it may be ob- served, that, on the cessation of the easterly winds, which are con- tinued in some seasons from the beginning of March to the mid- dle of June, and which, whether dry or moist, always occasion a keener sensation of cold than might be expected from the indica- tions of the thermometer, the first summer rains are usually the result of electrical changes ; that a much less depth of rain falls on this part of the coast, than in the immediate vicinity of the Grampians, during the summer months ; and that, while the spring and winter are distinguished by gloomy and often dismal weather, 272 KINCARDINESHIRE. the autumn is for the most part the most delightful season of the vear. Hydrograpiiy. — The alluvial soil is of great depth over a large proportion of , the surface, and springs are in consequence not fre- quent ; and not a little inconvenience and expense are occasioDed from this cause, both as regards the supply of water for domestic purposes, and for inclosures. Wells not entirely perforating the clay give neither a large nor constant supply, nor of good quality. Trap rocks usually afford abundance of water, but always contain- ing a large quantity of lime ; and the whole of the springs from sandstone and clayey gravel are more or less impregnated with iron. One in particular, near the village of Milton, is saturated with iron, and had the reputation some years ago of working cures, or of alleviating the symptoms of various complaints. Each den (of which there are six in the parish) has its bum, pouring its inconstant stream into the North Esk, or into the ocean. The largest of these is that which rises on the heights of Garvock, and, collecting the waters from about eight square miles, issues through the romantic Den Fenella to the sea, near the east end of the parish, and is chiefly noticeable on account of the beauty of the scenery in the neighbourhood of a waterfall which occurs near its termination. The course of the burn in its upper part is through a wide ravine, with not a bush or tree to vary the uniformity of its uninteresting slopes ; below, it enters into a broad band of trap rock, through which it has channelled a deep and winding passage, and towards the termination of its acceleratincr progress to the sea, is precipitated in a cascade (taking the adjuncts of trees and rocks into the account) of no little interest and beautv. The Fall of Den Fenella is, in the Mearns, next in celebrity to the admired scenery of " the Burn," and has given occasion, as may be supposed, to many attempts at poetical as well as pictorial description, — banks and trees, chasms and crags, dark foliage and festoons of flowering plants, the furious gush of the waters, &c. forming the chief ingredients in the description, and the principal grouping in the picture. There are two handsome bridges across the den, one of which is directly over the fall, and about 120 feet above the pool into which the waters are poured, while the fall it- self is accomplished in a single perpendicular leap of 65 feet. The river North Esk, it has been already stated, flows aloncr the western boundary of the parish, and marks the limits of the counties of Angus and Mearns. The course of the river, from its ST CYRUS. 273 source in the moimtairflTof Angus to the sea, is about forty miles Of the Mearns, it drains a surface equal in area to about ninety miles, and receives the waters of about 140 miles ofthe county of Angus. Its basin may thus be estimated at 280 square miles. Tak- ing the mean depth of rain over the district which the basin com- prehends at 28 inches, and its area as just noted, the volume of rain falling on it would be nearly 15,000 millions of cubic feet annually* In a mean state of the river (in 1837), its breadth at the conflu- ence was 141 feet, mean depth 1-^ foot, and velocity per minute^ 110 feet The annual discharge was therefore 12^228 millions cubic feet, leaving a difference of about 2733 millions cubic feet, as the value of the evaporation and absorption. In 1826 the whole water of the river was carried away from many parts of its channel into the mill courses on its margin. In July 1835, and in April 1839, the discharge was reduced to about one*sixth or one-eighth of ita average amount. From the nature of the materials composing the channel at and near the mouth of the river, its direction is subject to considerable changes. By one of these, two farms are at present disjoined from the parishes, of which they had ori- ginally formed, and still, quoad civilia^ form a part ; and in the me- mory of not very old persons, the river poured its waters into the sea, at a point about two miles eastward of its present mouth* Embankments are in one or two places necessary to preserve the contiguous lowlands from heavy floods, which come down with greater suddenness and impetuosity, since the universal drainage of the cultivated land ; and a small portion of the haugh land next to the mouth of the river is guarded in like manner from the access of the higher spring tides, which are felt nearly two miles up the stream. Rocks. — These are old red sandstone and trap. Of the former, the upper division consists of beds of spotted silicious and cal- careous sandstones, beds of red clay, with and without nodules of concretionary limestone, called by the lime-workers the seed-bed; layers of a calcareous conglomerate or gritstone ; and two layers of compact veined limestoue, of from 8 to 14 feet thick. These have generally a slight dip eastward. The second division con- sists of a reddish micaceous sandstone, composed of grains of quartz and felspar, and a large portion of the matter of trap, to- gether with a conglomerate of rolled boulders of granite, jasper» &c. The third division comprehends a series of fine-grained roi- KINCARDINE. S 274 KINCARDINESHIRE. caceous gray fiagstones. All these rocks are well exposed in deef sections, and are observed to be directed id conrormity with the axis of the range in which they are situated, and have, with the exception above noted, a considerable dip to the north-vest.* t2(//y, Trap. The whole elevations in the parish are probabK owing to the presence of this rock. It is found universally at the summit of every hill, and mound and ridge, presenting a more or less abrupt step near the top, on the south-east side, and rouod- ing off the hill in a convex sweep towards the north-west. It does not appear to have disturbed the lie of the sedimentary strata, with which it occurs interst rati Bed occasionally, but for the most part conceals these rocks, by having been poured out over them from a number of separate vents throughout the parish. It coo- tains often large fragmentary masses of the blue and green shales from below, which are scarcely distinguishable from the older clay-slates.-f- The varieties of trap observed in the parish are, amygdaloid, greenstone, claystone, and a trap conglomerate,- com- posed wholly of the matter of ancient trap rocks, in rounded no- dules of different porphyries. The imbedded minerals are, agates, agate-jasper, quartz (white and brown, and occasionally in the form of a rough amethyst), zeolites, calcareous spar, (rhomboidal, dog's tooth and satin), heavy-spar, green earth, and steatite. Outlying boulders are seen along the sea shore, and on the summits of the hills. They are principally granites, quartz, gneiss, and mica slates with garnets, none of these rocks being found in situ nearer than twenty miles. Some of the boulders are of enormous size. The action of the sea on the coast of this parish is noticed bv Mr Lyell, (Geol. Vol. i. p. 399), and particular reference is made to the destruction of the village of Milton of Mathers, by an in- * No organic remains were observed in any of these rocks prior to this year, ( 1841 ), when in the gray sandstones of Canterland den, which correspoiid in g«oWi> cal character to the paving stones of Turin, immense quantities of vegetable reniains were discovered to exist, by Mr James Peter of Canterland. These consist of briMui tapering leaves, fragments of the stems, branches, and leaves of fuci, called yucoida, and rounded masses of oval or circular dots, resembling the compressed seeds of the strawberry, and supposed by Mr Millar to be the r^ of an extinct species of ^gantic lobster. t So similar are these hardened shales to their ancient types, that the author of the account of the parish of Tannadice has been led from observing some of them in this neighbourhood, into the error of supposing a seam of the ancient day.slate forma- tion to run from Juhnshaven to Easdale. ST CYRUS. 275 road of the sea, towards the close of the last century, The facts ascertained from persons still living, and who were inhabitants of the village at the period referred to, are these : The village stood on a low beach, a little to the east of the headland of RockhalK It was protected, on the other side, by a ledge of limestone rock, running across the bay in front of it, and acting as a break-water against the incursions of high tides, to which it was much expos- ed. This rock was quarried for lime, and as its removal proceed- ed, the sea was allowed to expend its fury on the beach. By thift action, continued through several years, a large part of the vil- .lage was carried away, and in order to check its further inroads, a stone rampart was erected, which is still kept up for the protection of that portion of the village which remains. The new vil-> lage (Tangleha,) is built on the old line of the coast, a little to the south of Milton. Mr Lyell's narrative is given below.* An illustration of the agency of running water is also derived, by Mr Lyell, from this parish. " In the bay of Montrose," he says, *'we find the North Esk and the South Esk, rivers pouring an- nually into the sea large quantities of sand and pebbles, yet they have formed no deltas ; for the tides scour out the channels, and the current setting across their mouths, sweeps away all the ma- terials. Considerable beds of shingle, brought down by the North Esk, are seen along the beach.'* Eastward of the mouth of the river, there was, about sixty years ago, a broad range of bents^ up- wards of a mile in extent. In subsequent years, this range was entirely carried away by the sea, and it is again gradually, but very perceptibly forming, by the addition of a fresh ridge of sand and sea-grasses, in the course of every five or six- years. Soil, — The soil is very various ; but its general character is that of being rich and productive in a very high degree. Theie is a deep deposite of clay mingled with numerous small boulders and angular fragments of diflferent rocks over a wide range of the pa- rish ; and, where this deposite exists, it would seem that the ferti- * '< On the coMt of Kincardineshire, an illustratioa was afforded at ihe close o£ the last century, of the effect of promontories in protecting a line of low shore. ^ Th(& villsgeof Mathers, two miles south of Johnshaven, was built on an ancient shingle beach, protected by a projecting ledge of limestone rock. This was quarried foe lime to such an extent, that the sea broke through, and, in 1795, carried away tbQ whole vilUge in one night, and penetrated 150 yards inland, where it has maintain, ed its ground ever since, the new vilUge having been built fiirther inland, on tbf new shore.** 276 KINCAUDINESIIIRE. lity of the soil had little or no relation to the rocks lying below. In some parts, the trap is close to the surface, aDd, in this case, the soil appears to derive its productive qualities, in a greit measure, from the decomposition of that rock. This descripdoo of land is found chiefly in the southern division of the parish; io the other sections of it, the clayey soil, for the most part, pre- vails. Zoology. — The list of mammiferous animals, exclusive of the common domesrticated animals of the country, does not contain more than 20 of the 52 species indigenous to Great Britain. The most remarkable of these are, the stoat or ennipe, found in Can*. terlaud den, and the badger, said to be extinct in the vicinity of the Grampians. The hedgehog, formerly not observed io thb district, is now common ; the polecat and otter are much less frequent. The fox and roe-deer are found, at present, in consider- able numbers. Seals and porpoises frequent the rocks and river- mouth, and individuals of the whale tribe are occasionally stranded on our shores. The species of native birds do not, so far as is at present ascer- tained, exceed 58, and nearly as many have been enumerated as occasional visitants. Of the former class may be noted, Falco peregrinus^ Numenius arquata^ Tetany s calidrii^ Larus ridibunduSj Sterna kirundof and Anas Crecca. The latter class are chieflv aquatic birds, which frequent the bay and mouth of the river in immense numbers. Specimens have lately been shot in the parish of Ardea cinerea (an accidental and rare variety distinguished bv its white plumage), Stumus roseusy and Coracias garrvla. The following is a list of such fishes as are more or less fre- quently found in the river and adjoining sea : Murena anguilU Blenniuii Tivipanis Spams Raii " conger Cottus catapliractus Labrus tinea Anarrhicbas lupus scorpius Gasterosteus (3 apecies) Ammodytes tobianus Pleuronectes bippoglossus Trigia gurnardua*^ CallioDymus lyra .^-.i— ^» pUtessa IcYiaf Gadus ^glefinus — flesus Scomber scomber Morrhua . limanda - trachurua roerlangus ___ microcepbalus Salmo salar carbonarius .li—i^— _ solea , trutta Molva ..-^.-_ mazimus . i fiirio tricirratus ' limaodus eperlanus Blennius Gunellus «..-..»_ rhombus Esoz Beloiie * In Tery great numbers in the suke and bag-nets, t This l«autiful species is not unfrequently caught in the 8Uke*nets. 3 ST CYUUS. 277 Mugil cephaluR Cydoptenis lumpus Rtia Bmw Clupea barengus Lophius pisoatorius Ozyrhiiichus • pilcbardiu Acipcnser Sturio* ^-— claTata — — - sprattus Sqiialus Canloula Petromyson marinus Syognathus acus catulua — .^...^ fluTiatilb Opbidion — .. acantbias Along the sea^shore are found various species of Loligo^ Acti* nioy Asteriat^ Medusa^ Echinus^ Cancer^ with the foUowini; Tes- tacea : Cbiton marginatut Pliolas crispata Serpula apirorbis Cardium aculeatum Veoua Islandica Solan eodb Dentalium eDtalii Patella lacustria -^— vagina Donax trunoulus — ^^ unganca Strombus pea-pelaoani Mactra lolida Mya trunoata Murez clatbratua lutraria ^— arenaria Tellina radiata Nerita glaucina — margaritifara Turbo cimez. Heliz aspera Botany. — Some notices of the botany of this parish, contributed, among others, by the Rev. Mr Chrystall of Arbuthnott, are to be found in Dr Murray's Northern Flora. In general, the native vegetation of St Cyrus more resembles that of the parishes of Montrose and Craig, situated directly to the south of it, than that of the district of the Mearns, with which it is immediately connect- ed, the soil and rocks having a nearer afiSnity to those of the for- mer than of the latter ; and, accordingly, not a few plants common to this with the southern parishes, either entirely disappear, or their distribution is much less extensive, on advancing a little northward beyond the limits of this parish. In the upland parts, adjoining to Garvock, few or no plants are observed which seem worthy of notice, except, perhaps, Menyantheg trifoliatai Pamassia palustiisy Trollius Europcpusy and Anagallis tenellaj which are, by no means, uncommon in the neighbourhood; but, in the more shady dens, on the banks of the north Esk, and particularly along the base and in the recesses of the cliflfs of St Cyrus, where there is a genial exposure to the south, the vegetation of native plants is luxuriant and beautiful. Among these, may be enumerated the following, which are found associated with the gray sandstone, but chiefly with the trap formation : On moist or marshy ground, — Valeriana officinalis^ Alisma Plantagoj several species of Epilobiumy Aira aquaiica, Aquilegia vulgaris^ with numerous Caricesy among which may be specifled C dioica^ C. distans^ C. irUermediOf C. riparian and C. pendula, the last very sparingly in Den Fenella ; and Lemna trisulca^ of which no specimen appears to have been met with in the north of Scotland * Several specimens of which have been caught lately. 278 KINCABDINE8BIRE. prior to 18379 when it was discovered by Mr Alexander CroaIl«! Montrose, in the dam of Stone of Morpby. On banks, fields, and by way-sides, — Primula verity with \i< hybrid relative P. elatior^ Anaffollis arvensis^ GmvalvfilHS airatpj. Gentiana campestris^ Saxifraga granulata^ Pimjnnella saiifrtjt, Agrimonia Eupatoria^ Antirrhinum linaria^ Cardamine aman^ Sisymbrium Sophia ^ Carduus acanthoides, and Avena alpineu In salt marshes, — Scirpus mariHmvs^ Poiamogtton pusiBu, ani Aster tripolium ; and on dry, sandy, or gravelly banks in the neigH- bonrhood of the sea, Phleum arenarium and nodosum^ Poa mm- tima^ Elymus arenarius^ very abundantly alongr the outer range of the bents from the mouth of the north Esk eastward, with Annd^ arenaria^ Tritiatm junceum^ and Carex arerutria ; Hyoscgamvs ni- gej', Viola Jl'ivicornis^ Salsola Kalij several species of Aremrv^^ Origanum vulgare^ Cakile maritima^ Eryngium maritimum^ and Lithospermum woriV/mMm, of which two last plants, though said to have been met with, some years ago, not a single specimen can no« be found in the parish. In the shady dens of Fenella and Morphy, — Poa nemoralif, Festuca syhatica^ F, elatiory Bromus giganteiiSy /?. asjier^ IL steri- //.?, Asperula odorata^ Galium boreaie^ Allium vineale^ A. ursinum, A. nleraceum^ Paris qnadrifolia^ and Adoxa Moschotelliua. In the recesses and on the sloping sides of the cliffs of St Cv- rus, — CampnmUa ghmerata^ Diantlius deltuides, Silene nutans^ hi- thyrus syhestris^ Vicia lutea^ V, sylvatica^ V^ lathyroidesy V. angui- tifolia^ Solidago Virgaurea^ Pyrethrum maritimnm^ Enpatorium cannabinum^ Carlina vulgaris, Kchium vulgare. Geranium pratensf, G, sanguineum, Tragopogon pratensis, and Trijblium scabruw. This last was observed by Mr James Cruickshank of Dumfries, in 1838, on the peninsula of the Kaim of Mathers, and also on a spot about half a mile westward, and, though common in Eno-land, is only known to exist in other two stations in Scotland, tlie nearest of which is on the coast of Haddington, Plantations, — The whole of the woods in the parish have been planted, and cover a surface of somewhat more than 000 acre^. They consist of the usual sorts of evergreen trees, mingled with the hard- woods, ash, elm, beech, and a few oaks. The soil is not unfavourable to the growth of any of the sorts of trees em- ployed in the formation of plantations ; but, being exposed to the influences of the sea breeze, their growth is necessarily slow, though, on this very account, they are said to produce timber of 8T CYRUS. 279 superior durability. The mansion-houses in the parish are gene* rally surrounded by clumps of hard-wood trees of considerable age and size ; and, in one instance, on an elevated spot, close by the sea shore, there is a goodly collection of ash and other deciduous trees, which appear to have withstood for centuries the fury of the eastern gales. The hill of Woodston was planted about eighty years ago, and yields excellent timber, though of small size. At a later period, the plantations of Mount Cyrus were laid out, and have been considerably extended by the present proprietor. The plantations of Lauriston are just about to be further enlarged, by the addition of a pretty large extent on the north side of the es- tate. II. — Civil History. Land'owners, — The land-owners in this parish are, Mr Lyall of Lauriston ; Mr Dingwall Fordyce of Brucklay, proprietor of Woodston ; Mr Grant of Mount Cyrus ; Mr Fitzmaurice Scott of Comeston ; Mr J, R. Scott of Stone of Morphy, a minor ; Mr Graham of Morphy ; the Earl of Kintore ; Captain Orr of Bridgeton ; Mr Grahame Straton of Kirkside ; Mr T. Newman Farquhar of Jackston ; and Sir Alexander Ramsay of Balmain, Bart., proprietor of Muirhead. Parochial Registers. — The oldest minute book of the kirk-ses- sion commences with the date May 24, 1696, and the register of baptisms and marriages with that of April of the same year. Both have been continued with some irregularity to the present time. There are blanks in the minutes from 1732 to 1744, from 1791 to 1797, and from 1810 to 1816; and the volume containing the register of marriages, from 1776 to 1834, appears to have been lost. Antiquities. — The Castle of Lauriston, which was situated to- wards the east end of the parish, and about a mile from the sea shore, appears to have been a place of some note in ancient times. It was called by Lord Hailes the *' Fortress of Lauri.^ton." It was built in the tenth century, and sustained repeated sieges by the troops of Edward III. In 1.336, it was captured and garrisoned by that monarch, and, towards the termination of that year, was recaptured and demolished by the Guardian Murray, along with " the fortresses of Kineff and Dunoter" (Hailes's Annals, p. 191, and Guthrie's History). The castle and lands of Lauriston con- tinued in the possession of the Straton family for a period of 400 years prior to 1695, when the estate was sold to *^ Sir John Falconer 280 KINCAUDINKSHIRE. and Elizabeth fi^n^ l^is wife/' from whose representativet it wn purchased, about fifty years ago, by its late proprietor, Mr Bruii At that time, the only parts of the building remaining were^ tpMt- lion of a very strong circular wall, which had formed the weiten enclosure of the castle, a tower of a square form at one eztreaiitj of this wall and built on a projecting ledge of the precipice^ alosg the edge of which the wall was carried, and a portion of the ao- cient chapel. These remains of the fortress are preserved, bv having been incorporated, some years after the purchase of tk lands by Mr Brand, into a spacious and elegant modem mansioD.* The Kaim of Mathersy or camp of Mathers, so called from its situation on the lands of Mathers, is a ruin on a rocky and almost inaccessible peninsula, overlooking the sea, about a mile and a- half southward of the house of Lauriston. The isthmus, connect- ing the rock with the mainland, was guarded by two rows of bat- tlements, one of which still remains in a state of considerable pre- servation. There are traces of building around the greater part of the rock ; and, on its sea-ward extremity, there are the remains of a square tower, which can only be approached by a leap over a chasm of about 60 feet in depth. This place is supposed to have been the residence of certain of the aneestors of Mr Barclav of Ury, and to have been used as a place of retreat, by one of that family, in the time of James I. The tradition respecting it is connected with the story of the death of Melville, Sheriff of the Mearns, and appears, according to Sir Walter Scott, to have had some foundation in fact ; while, according to the author of the Agricultural Survey of the Mearns, " the origin of the Kaim of Mathers is generally cited in testimony of the truth of the extra- ordinary manner of Melville's death, just in the same way as Queen Fenella's journey from Fettercairn to Den Fenella, on the tops of the trees, is alleged, as proof positive, that the country was then thickly covered with wood."f The lands of Laqriston and Easter Mathers were purchased this year by Mr Lyall, f om Miss Watson, to whom they bad fallen, as heir-at-law, on the death of Mr Brand in 1839. f In a note on the story of Lord Soulis, in the Minstrelsy of the Border, Sir Walter says, : — »* The tradition regarding the death of Lord Soulis, however singular, it not without a parallel in the real history of Scotland. The aatne excraorc^itary mode of cookery was actually practised fhorresco re/trensj^ upon the body of a She- riff of the Mearns. This person, whose name was Melville of Glenbervic, bore bis faculties so harshly, that he became detested by the barons of the county. Reite- rated complaints of his conduct having been made to James L, (or, as others say to the Duke of Albany), the monarch answered, in a moment of unguarded impatiericc, " Sorrow gin the Sheriff were sodden and supped in broo !" The compUiner^ re-* tired perfectly satisfied. Shortly after, the lairds of Arbuthnott, Mathers, Lauriston ST CYllUS. 281 ADotber fortress in the parish was the Castle of Morphy, on the property of Francis Graham, Esq. and said to have been a resi* dence belonging to the Noble family of that name. It is believed to have been a place of some strength, was defended by a wall, ditch, and drawbridge, and occupied a commanding position on the brink of a romantic ravine uniting with the valley of the North Esk. Its site is now a ploughed 6eld.* The Stone of Morpky.-^Thia is an obelisk situated on the lands of the same name, in the western division of the parish. With reference to it, the writer of the former Account says, that it is difficult to determine whether it had been erected to preserve the memory of some gallant warrior of the name of Graham, to which Noble family the lands of Morphy originally belonged, or whether it may be a remnant of a Druidical temple ; while, at the same time, he appears not to have been aware of the existence of atra* dition, which says, that it was erected in memory of a son of Ca- mus, or some other important personage in his army, who was kill- ed here in an engagement with the Scots, after the defeat and death of the Danish leader at Panbride. The Danes, on that event, immediately retreated northward, and, according to the tra- snd Pittarrow, decoyed Melrille to the top of the hill of Garvock, under pretence of a grand hunting party. Upon this place, itill called the SheriiTs Pot, the barons had prepared a fire and a boiling cauldron, into which they plunged the unlucky Sheriff*. After he was ' sodden,* as the King termed it, for a sufficient time, the savages, that they might literally observe the Koyal mandate, concluded the scene of abomination, by actually paruking of the hcU-broth. The three lairds were out- lawed for the offence, and Barclay, one of their number, to screen himself from jus- tiee, erected the Kaim (i. e. the fortress) of Mathers. The Laird of Arbuthnott is said to have eluded the Royal vengeance, by claiming the benefit of the law of the clan Macduff*. A pardon, or perhaps a deed of replegiation, founded on that law, is said to be still extant among the records of the Viscount of Arbuthnott.** * An illustration of the popular supi*rstitions of Angus-shire is derived from the building of this castle, in a poem by Dr Jamieson in the Minstrelsy of tlie Border, in which the exploits of the water-kelpy are recorded. From time immemorial to that of *' John o* Arnha*,*' the water-kelpy has, according to popular belief, been an in- habitant of the North Esk, and the Castle of Morphy, being in the vicinity of that part of the river where he was thought to be most frequently seen, it is said that he afforded most material service in its erection. A stanza of the poem referred to is as follows : ~~ When Morphy*s laird bis biggin rear*d, I carryit aw the stanes. And mony a chiel has heard me squeal For sair birs*d back and banes, &c. In a note by the writer, it is said, ** The water- kelpy celebrated the evetit of car- rying stones for the building of the castle in rhyme; and that for a long time after he was often heard to cry with a doleful voice, Sair back and sair banes. Carrying the Ltdrd o* Morphy*s stanes. To which a later edition of the history has added, 'Vhe Laird o* Morphy will never thrive, So long as Kelpy is alive. 282 KINCARDINESHIRE. dition, encountered the Scots near the Stone of Morphy ; aodtlui a battle had there taken place, is probable, from the immeDse num- ber of stone-coflBnSy containing human bones, which have ben found, particularly in and near a field called ^* the sick man's shade,'' close by the stone. The farm adjoiningr that on wbidi the pillar stands, bears the name of Comeston, or, as it is writtei in old records, Camuston. The names of Wardroperton and Scotstown, two farms bordering on the latter, seem to indicate the position of the Scottish army ; and a den quite close to the pillar is called Dannie's den, which seems easily convertible into Da- nish den. The form of the stone, which is a plain unsculptured obelisk of 13 feet in height above the ground, and taperincr from 4 feet in breadth at the base, to 2 at the top, seems also to corre- spond with the description of other Danish monuments in diSereot parts of Scotland. The Camp of Pitbeadlay. — On the most prominent part of the hill of Pitbeadlay (i. e. the grave of the house on the hill), there b a small circular camp, which, within a few years, was in a state of tolerable preservation. It is nearly forty yards in diameter, and had a ditch, and a wall of turf and stones, and a central buildiiit^ constructed of stone. Some remains of human bones were latelv exhumed within its inclosure. There is, however, no tradition connected with it. Den Fenella. — This place takes its name from Fenella dau«^h- ter of the Earl of Angus, who, on attempting to escape from her castle of Kincardine, in the parish of Fordoun, after the murder of Kenneth III., was overtaken here by her pursuers, and put to death. This is the traditionary account given by John Major, in his Antiquities of the Mearns. Some notices from the session records, regarding* the state of the parish in the years 1715 and 1716, are transcribed below.* • " October 9, 1715. Tliis day Mr John Lamy, ftometime prelaticaU incunil)ent here, did violently intrud liimRcIf upon this church and parish, being assistcni bv nne armed band of ruffians brought from other parishes, especially from FcrnaU and'jKin- naird, who did violently deforce our minister when he was coming to perform di>ine worship, ns he had done twenty years before; but such was the fury of the m«>b. that they would not sufler him to come near the churchyard, Mr Lamy in the meantime l>eing possest in the pulpit, so that he was forced to retire to his own house, where he prenche a good family in the Mearns, but they are now decayed, though ( some Straitens, particularly Straiten of Kirkside, and some of *: Laurieston, are standing." (Nisbet's Heraldry). A branch of the r: Lauriston family obtained a charter of the ecclesiastical lands of t " Ecclesgreig, alias Kirksyde," in 158*2. " Alexander de Stmi* r ton de Lauranston," fell with several of his sons at the battle of Harlaw, in 1411.* ** George Stratoun of Lauranston" was one of the 6rst persons of rank and respectability who embraced the reformed doctrines, anno 1540. He sat in Parliament for the shire of Kincardine in 1567. His son, " Sir Alexander Stratoun, Knight," also sat in Parliament in 1597; and, in 1605, held the situation of Lord High Commissioner to the General Assembly, which met in Aberdeen in that year. The conduct of " Lauries- ton" on that and subsequent occasions is adverted to by the diffe- rent historians of the church. (See Calderwood's History, M*Crie's Life of Andrew Melville, and Cook's History of the Church of Scotland). Mansion- Houses. — There are mansion-houses on the estates of Bridgeton, Lauriston, Mount Cyrus, and Kirkside, all of late erec- tion. None of them, however, are at present occupied by their proprietors, with the exception of that of Mount Cyrus. The the parish being full of Swee^ and Dutch souldii^n, the people could not leave their houses, so that there was this day in the church some Swees officers, and some heads of families. The minister lectured from Exodus xiv. 13 and 14, v.*^ (for the Egyp- tians whom ye have seen to day, ye shall see no more for ever). " The Brigadier had sent word to the minister that he could not stay above three-quarters of ane hour.** " February 19, 1716. The parish also this day being thronged with Swees and Dutch souldiers, only some few heads of families were in the church. They could not stay from their houses for fear they should be spoiled and plundered, as many were that day.'* • ** And then the worthy Laird Saltoun, The stout undaunted Laird of Drum, The stalwart Laird of Laurieston, With ilk their horses all, &c. • « • « • And then the Knicbt of f^aurieston Was slain in his armour schene,** &c. Laing^g Metrical Ballads, *^ The Straitons were a race of m^n remarkable for size and strength. Their at- tachment to Laurieston in St Cyrus was so great, that they changed the name of every other place where any of them settled into Laurieston** ( Former Account). The brother of Geor^^e Stratoun of Lauranston, David Stratoun, had a dispute with Patrick Hepburn, Bishop of Moray, and Prior of St Andrews, regarding the tithes of his fishings, and gave directions to his domestics to throw every tenth salmon into the river, sayin-;, ** Let the Bishop seek the tithes where my servants get the stock.** The remirkable ciMiversion of this person is noticed by ooteinporary historians. He was a disciple of Erskine of Dun, and being cited for heresy, and having refused to retract, he was led to the stake, and suffered with great constancy and resolution, 27th August 1534, at Greenside, near Edinburgh, with Norman Gourlay, a priest. 284 KINCARDINESHIRE. mansion-houses on the other estates are in the occupancy of ih respective tenants of the lands. The house of Bridgetoo b plei^ santly situated on a rising ground near the eastern extremitj •( the parish. There is an excellent garden attached to it ; tnd, from the re|[ular disposition of the grounds, and some belts of wood lately planted, the place has altogether an appeanioce of much neatness. The mansion-house of Lauriston, a little to the west of Bridgeton, occupies the site of the ancient fortress of Lau- riston. " It is a spacious, elegant building, erected some yean after the purchase of the lands, by their late proprietor, Mr BnuM), and united, as before-mentioned, to a portion of the old castle, which was then standing. The situation, on the brink of a per- pendicular precipice, overhanging a deep wooded ravine, is exceed- ingly romantic, and the walks, approaches, bridgresy and planta- tions by which the grounds are adorned, render this place one of the most delightful residences in the county. The mansion-bouse of Mount Cyrus, the property of Mr Grant, stands on a rising ground to the north-west of the church and village of St Cyrus. It is a substantial and graceful building, with a neat approach and ex- tensive lawn in front, and, with its young and thrivinjjr plantationsi by which it is on all sides surrounded, imparts an agreeable aspect to this part of the parish. The house of Kirkside, which, with the estate, lately came into the possession of Mr Graham Stra- ton, on the death of his relative. Lieutenant- General Sir Joseph Stratoii, is a substantial modern building, situated near the southern extremity of the parish, and commanding a pros|)ect of the bay, town, and basin of Montrose, with the rich and diversified scenerv around. The materials employed for building, and of which the parish affords an abundant supply, are, for the most part, the red sand- stones of Lauriston and Woodston. Some of the older buildings are constructed of the sandstones of the Whitecraig, others of the trap rocks of the cliff of Kirkside, and a few houses on the we^tt side of the parish, are built chiefly of the flagstones and shales of the den of Canterland. III. — Population. Since the date of Dr Webster's enumeration, there have been ten returns of the population. The returns from the years 1781 to 1792 inclusive, are copied from the former Statistical Account. They appear to have been made by the incumbents of ST CYHUS. 285 ir the parish, and in the last of these years, the name of every indi- A Tidual, with his place of residence, occupation, and age, is entered If in the minute-book of the kirk-session. ^ The following table shows the state of the population from the , time of Dr Webster's account to 1841. I; I r Yews. Population. Yews. Population. 1755, 1271 180U 1622 1781, 1687 1811, 1664 1785, 1704 1821, 1641 1788, 1750 1831, 1598 J792. 1763 1841, 1600 1798, 1638 The population appears to have remained nearly stationary since the year 1798. The larger returns from 1781 to that year are accounted for, by the circumstance of the lime-quarries of Milton and Mathers, being then in full operation, and the diminu- tion in 1798, by the removal from the parish of a number of fa- milies dependent on the prosecution of these works, which, about that period, were partially, and not \otig after, entirely abandoned. Population of villages. Kirktown of St Cyrus, . 179 Roadside, ^including Burnside), 105 Lochside, (including Wbitehill), 112 Milton and Tangleha*, 50 Statement of births, deaths, and marriii female servants, . . . I'ia No. of persons residing in the families of some of the above classes, not being children, .... • . 7j There are in the parish, 6 grocers, 1 cooper, 5 house and can- wrights, 7 blacksmiths, 1 turner, 4 corn or flour millers, 9 shoe- makers, 5 gardeners, 30 persons occasionally employed as hand- loom weavers, 4 tailors, 1 slater, 1 saddler, 3 whitefishers, 51 salmon-tishers, 1 farrier, 9 masons, 1 1 carters, and 1 1 stone-ma- sons. A surgeon resides in the Kirktown of St Cyrus. The introduction of spirits by the Highland traders, so prevaleut some years ago, has been entirely suppressed ; and poaching for game has become much less common of late years, from the ac- tive measures employed by a game-association, instituted amono- the principal landed gentlemen of the county, for the punibhment of this species of delinquency. The practice of poaching- for sal- mon still prevails, as, notwithstanding the care with wliidi the river is guarded, fresh salmon may, it is said, be privately obtained at all times during the close season, from parties in the town and neighbourhood of Montrose, by whom this illicit trade is car- ried on. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — View of distribution of lands according to returns taken from Mr Robertson's survey in 1807, and returns obtained from the different landed proprietors in 1837 : — ST CYRUS. 287 1807. 1837. Under tillage, . 5430 imp. acres. 0234 imp. acres. Plantations, . 255 . 310 Improveable, . 1108 . 780 Waste, &c. 1084 844 Toul, 8477 8174 Not accounted for« . . 303 The extent of undivided common is stated at about 200 acres. It is, at present, together with the greater proportion of the waste lands, almost entirely valueless. Much, however, might be done in the way of planting and cultivation, there being but very few acres in the parish which are not fitted for these purposes. The usual sorts of trees planted are ash, beech, plane, elm, birch, larch, Scotch and silver iir. A great variety of other trees have i been introduced into the policies of Lauriston, and have been found to succeed well. From the preceding statement of the number of acres under cultivation in 1807 and 1837, it will be observed, that about 800 acres of land have been brought into tillage, during the thirty years intervening between these dates, the rate of improve- ment being about one quarter of an acre per cent, annually. Rental. — Comparative view of rental in the years 1791, 1807, and 1837: 1791. 1807. 1837. Land rent. L.2928 L.C757 L9631 Salmon fishings, 850 2000 2991 lliinnings of wood, say - - 70 Sandstone quarries, • • • 103 Lime quarries, m Total rental. B L. 12,795 Valued rent. * L.6277 2 4 Average rent per imperial acre, aliout - I 10 6 Wagesy Rates of LMbour^ Prices^ Breeds of Live- Stock. — It is unnecessary to enter into any detail regarding these, as the infor- mation already published in accounts of contiguous parishes is a|> plicable in every particular to these matters, in regard to this pa- rish. It may just be added, with reference to the price of grain, that, though the sale is eflfected nominally by measure, the farmer is in fact paid according to the weight of the article, a standard weight being assumed for the bushel, and the price ascending or de- scending with every pound weight above or below the fixed point. Since the introduction of this mode of computation, a considera- ble deterioration has taken place in the value of inferior land. It is not customary in this parish to graze cattle or sheep by the head. There are scarcely any sheep kept permanently in the 288 KINCARDTNE.SIIIRE. coast district of the Mearns. During winter, flocks from tk mountains are pastured on the lowlands, at a fixed rent for (k season ; and grass enclosures are rented by the acre for somoxr grazing of cattle. Husbandry. — The alternations of cropping usually adopted ut the fourth and fifth-shifts according to the character of the soil, and the command of manure. The proportion of land emplof- ed, about thirty years ago, in the cultivation of wheat, was leij nearly one*tenth part of the whole, arable surface^ and this pro- portion amounted to about two-fiflhs of the entire surface mvq with wheat within the county. At present, about one sixtieth part of the arable land in the parish is laid out in the production of this kind of grain. Beans, pease, and barley also, enter leas exteo- sively into the system of cropping than formerly, while the breadth sown with potatoes is relatively greater than that in any parish in the county. Flax is not now cultivated. Barley and oats are sown in the proportion of about one acre of the former to three of the latter. On some of the upland farms, no barley is sown at ail. Leases are, for the most part, held at a fixed rent in money, and for a period of nineteen years. The farm-dwellings are sub- stantial and comfortable, and the farm -offices usually slated, and fitted up in a very superior manner. The lands have been, in most instances, subdivided with regu- larity ; but there are few enclosures, hedge-rows, or belts of wood, excepting in the immediate vicinity of the principal mansion- houses, and the richest tracts of land in the parish are destitute of shelter and permanent fence of any description. In these respects, and in the want of more capacious and comfortable cottage:* Tor the farm-labourer, the chief obstacles to improvement appear to be experienced.* * Among the names mentioned in connexion with the earlier agricultural im- proremenu of the county are those of William Graham, Esq. of Morpby, in this pa- rish ; Sir Alexander Ramsay of Balmain, whose improvements were more or less ex- tended over all the lands of which he was proprietor, including thoae of Soadon in this parish, and Robert Scott, Esq. of Dunninald, whose improTementa on the Cirm of Milton, also in this parish, form, with a single exception, the earliest instance on record of the Introduction oi the modern sjrstem of huslMkndry into the county. Mr Scott became, in 1750« tenant of that farm, and of the lime- works on it, and from that period carried on his improvements with so much vigour and success, that his plana came to be generally adopted throughout the parish, and in the short space of twenty years, the rent of land rose from 10s. and 15s. to L.1, lOs., and io some in* stances to L.2 an acre. More recently, the state of the parish, as to agricultural im- proremenc, if described as having been such, that **■ though there are two or three pe- 1ft ST CYRUS. 289 m Quarries. — Trap or scurdy rock is obtained at the expense of »lii quarrying and carriage, in various parts of the parish^ and there i|it are several quarries of sandstone, which yield an abundant supply of good building materials. The stone of the Whitecraig on the ^Jg lands of Kirkside, is a white sandstone, well fitted on account of ^ its beauty and durability for ornamental architecture, but too ex- ^ pensive, from its hardness, for general use in building. The quar- ^1 ries of Woodston and Lauriston afford the principal supply of ^ sandstone to the district within a circuit of ten miles. The stone ^ is a reddish soft sandstone, easily wrought, and very durable. Both quarries, which are within a few yards of each other, though on different properties, are at present in the hands of one tenant, who holds a kind of monopoly of the trade. The value of stones ex- ported from these quarries, is estimated at from L.800 to L.1000 a year. Prices at the quarries as under : 6d. and 8d. per load of rubble ; 4d. and upwards, according to size, per foot, for blocks ; ridge-stones, 6d. per running foot \ pavement, dd. per square foot, dressed ; carriage to Montrose, six miles and a half, ds. per ton of 12 cubic feet The tile-stones of Morphy were at one time used for roofing, but after a trial, were discontinued, having been found to yield so rapidly to the influences of the atmosphere. The most extensive lime*works in the county were at East Ma- thers, in this parish. They are said to have been wrought for a very long period, and to have produced, during a space of eighty years, an average of 20,000 bolls annually. The limestone lay, in detached masses, along a portion of the sea shore, and was for a time quarried at a trifling expense, but the rock passing inland under a deep bank, the labour of mining became at last so expen*^ stve, as to cause an entire suppression of the works about the year 1836, for several vears before which time not more than 1000 bolls having been burnt annually. Fisheries^ — There are several very valuable salmon fisheries connected with the properties of Stone of Morphy, Comeston (and Kinnaber), Kirkside, Woodston, and West Mathers. The fishing belonging to the last mentioned estate was alienated from it some years since, and now belongs to Mr Grant of Mount Cy- rus. The proprietor of Lauriston also derives a small revenue from a fishing lately established on the coast adjacent to his lands. rislies in the county that have a greater proportion of arable land, there are none in which the powers of cultivation are more vigorously exerted, or in which (he lands io general yield a greater return, or are let at a higher rent.** KINCARDINE. T 290 KINCARDINESHIRE. The whole of these fishings, which comprehend the entire exteotof the sea-'coast, and of the North Esk ri^er, from its mouth to the boundary of the lands of Morphy, brought, in 1837, a rmitalof L.d59K The fishing of Comeston and Kinnaber includes part of the river and sea coast, and the latter property being in tbepi- rish of Montrose, a moiety of the value of this fishing, whidi b the joint property of the respective proprietors, falls to be deduct- ed from the above rental, and the remainder, or L. 2991, was tlie revenue in the year referred to, from the fishings connected with this parish. Reports of the number of fish caught at some of the stations are given in the minutes of evidence before a committee of the House of Commons in 1825. So many as dOOO fish, inclod- ing salmon, grilses, and trouts, are said to have been caught in one day in July 1835. The number of men employed is about sixtj; wages, from 8s. to 15s. a week, with fish-money, or an additional allowance according to the number caught Prices of salmon van from 8d. to 2s. 6d. per lb. ; and the greater part of the fish b transported in ice to the Edinburgh and I^ndon markets. There has been, for many years, a small white-fishery carried on by the inhabitants of the village of Milton. In 1781, the vil- lage contained 46 families, comprising 170 individuals, and had three boats, with six men to each, engaged in the white>fishing. But in 1792, the village was, as before mentioned, partially de- stroyed, and the fishermen were, at the same time, deprived of their harbour. Since that time, not more than one or two small boats have been employed, and the population of Milton, with that of Tanglehi, is now reduced to fifty souls. One boat is still engaged in the white-fishing, and affords support to two or three families. Produce. — For the purpose of arriving at an approximate value of the raw produce, it has been attempted to ascertain, with as much precision as possible, the number of acres under each kind of crop, and the average produce of each acre. The following results have been obtained : Grain crop. — Wheat, 103 imperial acres, 4 quarters per acre, 412 qrs. Barley, 750 do. 44 do. do. 3375 qrs. Oats, 1952 do. 5 do. do. 9760 qrs. Green crop.-^ Turnips, 835 imperial acres, 10 tons per acre, 8350 tons. Potatoes, 263 do. 25 boUs do. 6575 bolls. Beans ft pease, 135 do. 4 qrs. dob 540 qrs. Fallow, 170 ST CTRU8. 291 Hay and pastwre.'r^ Hay, 400 imperial acres, 170 ftooes per acre, 68000 stooct. Pasture, 1626. The value may be estimated as under : — Grain. — Wheat, 412 quarters, at L.2, 12b. per quarter, L* 1071 Barky, 3375 do. at L. 1,10s. do. 5062 Oats, 9760 do. at L. 1,2s. do. 10,736 Green crop.-^ Turnips, 8350 tons, at 7s. per ton, • L.2922 Potatoes, 6575 bolls, at 7s. per boll, . 2301 Beans. &o. 540 qrs. at L.1, 6s. per qr. - 702 Fallow. Hay and pasture*"^ Hay, 68,000 stones, at 4d. per stone, - 1.. 11 33 Pasture, 1626 acres, at L.1, l2s. per acre, • 2601 Straw, 14,067 quarters, at 5s. per quarter, 3521 Total value of grain, green crop, bay, ftc* L.30,049 Value of wood sold yearly • • 70 Quarries, say • - 1000 White fisheries, . • 100 Salmon fisheries, - • 6000 Total value of raw produce, L.37,219 In this account is not included the value of hill and sheep pas- Cure, and of gardens, which has not been ascertained. 'The value of disposable produce, including grain of all sorts, potatoes, hay, cattle, pigs, poultry, and dairy produce, has been estimated at from L. 17,000 to L.1 8,000. With regard to dairy produce, it may be mentioned, that, on a small farm in the parish, there has been a manufacture of sweet-milk cheeses, to a consi- derable extent, for a good many years, which originated under the patronage of James Andrew Sandilands, Esq. of Aberdeen, and the demand for them, under the name of Canterland cheese, from various quarters in England and Scotland, is much beyond what can be supplied. Manufactures. — About thirty hand-looms are employed in the manufacture of coarse linen during winter. In summer the num- ber is less, several hands being then more profitably engaged in salmon-fishing. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Toum. — The nearest market-town is Montrose, distant three miles from the south-western boundary of the parish, and five and a-half miles from the village of St Cyrus. 292 KINCARDINESHIRB. Villages. — The village or kirktown of St Cyrus consists of about forty houses, for the most part straw- thatched cottages, disposed without much regard to neatness or regularity around the parid church. The situation is exceedingly damp and exposed, and ap- pears to possess no other advantage than that of showing off the church, which has rather a respectable appearance, v^hen seen fron a distance. Burnside and Roadside form a line of cottages along the north side of the public road, at a short distance from tk Kirktown ; and, a little to the west of these, there is another ham- let, inhabited, as the others generally are, by feuars and crofien. The united population of these villages, which are incUided within a circle of one mile from the parish church, amounts to about one- fourth of the whole population of the parish. Means ofCommunication.'^^The parishioners have now the be- nefit of a branch post-office at Bush of Woodston, before the esta- blishment of which there was often an irregular and expendfe conveyance of letters from Montrose, and there is a delivery of letters throughout the parish daily. Two mail-coaches pass daily to and from Edinburgh and Aberdeen. Steam-boats touch four times a week on their passage to and from Inverness, Aberdeen, I^ith, &c. at the village of Johnshaven, which is half a mile distant from the eastern extremity of the parish ; and there is a commu- nication between Montrose and Newhaven twice a week by steam, during the summer, and by sailing vessels during winter. The public roads and bridges are generally in good condition. The bridge across the north Esk, on the line of the great north road which passes through the parish, a distance of five miles, was built in 1775, at a cost of L.6500 ; and a small but handsome bridge, on the same line, was erected in 1817, at an expense of Li.600. The small harbour of Sea-greens, in tjie vicinity of the lime-works, is capable of admitting vessels of 50 or 60 tons burden. Ecclesias tical State, — T he church, which was built in 1785 to contain 870 feet of sitting room, or one foot of space for every two persons then in the parish, was enlarged in 1830, and now can ac- commodate about 50 per cent, of the population, at the rale of 15 inches to each person. The situation is more accessible bv the major part of the parishioners than that of the ancient parish church, being about three-quarters of a mile to the north of it, and at a short distance from the turnpike road. It is, however, at an inconvenient distance from many families both in the eastern and western districts of the parish^ some of whom have to travel to it I ST CYRUS. 293 f,i three and four miles by indirect roads. The sittings in the older y. part of the church are set apart to the heritors and their tenants, J and such seats as the latter may not require, are let to feuars and • other inhabitants, in some instances at a nominal rent, and in others at Is. 6d. or more for a sitting. The newer part of the church has not yet been divided. There are two services during six months, from April to September, which are usually well at- tended. The average number of male heads of femilies is 225, and the whole number of communicants 700. The manse was built in 1797. It has since undergone some slight alterations, and is now in good repair. The glebe is four Scotch acres in extent, including the sites of the manse, offices, and garden, and may be valued at L.10 per annum. The stipend is 17 chalders, half meal and half barley, and with L.10 for com- munion elements, amounted, by the fiars prices of 1837, to 1^.241. ^ In the year 1798, according to a census of the population re- corded in the session minutes, there were, in the parish, 15 fami- lies of Seceders, 2 families of Bereans, and 8 families of Episco- palians, comprising in all 1 12 individuals. Since then, the num- ber of Dissenters from the Establishment has been very much diminished. In 1837, there were only 27 individuals in the parish who were not in communion with the Established Church. Twenty- three of these were persons belonging to a congregation in the neigh- bouring village of Johnshaven, in connection with the United Asso- ciate Synod ; 3 were Bereans ; and 1 Episcopalian. There are, besides, one or two individuals who do not profess to be in com- munion with any body of Christians. Since ] 837, one family of Seceders, consisting of 1 1 individuals, has come to reside in the parish. A parochial association for religious purposes, under the direc- tion of the minister and elders, was instituted in 1836. The con- tributions in that and the following year, for the Assembly's' India Mission, and Highland Schools, amounted together to L.50. In 183d, the sum collected for the same objects was L.30. Contri- butions of nearly equal amount have since been made for the other schemes of the Assembly ; and the collections at the church doors, for charitable purposes, average about L.15 a-year. Education, — There are at present six schools in the parish, be- sides the parochial school. Five of these are conducted by fe- males, who teach reading, sewing, and knitting, and, in one case, writing; and one is conducted by a male teacher, who is qualified 294 KINCARD1NB8HIRB. to instruct in readings writing, and arithmetic There are ossaBy classes in the parochial school, for geography, Latio, and Fmdi, besides the branches ordinarily taught in country schools, lis master of the parochial school has a salaiy of Lr.d3^ school fce^ amounting to L.30 a-year; a commodious house, much laigerthn what is considered the legal provision ; a garden, and septnle school-room. The private schools are all unendowed, and appor to be kept up without any subscription by the parents of chiidra attending them, or by others, beyond what is paid to the teachen in the shape of school fees. The attendance at the parish school b from 60 to 90, occasionally upwards of 100, for whose proper accommodation the room is much too small. The average noBh her of children in constant attendance at all the schools is 200, which is exactly one-eighth part of the whole population of tbe parish. There are Sabbath schools at five different stations in the pa- rish, under the conduct of the assistant minister, and other indi- viduals, who take an interest in the religious instruction of the young. There are also classes kept by the assistant minister, od the afternoon and evening of Sabbath, for the instruction of male and female servants, each of which is attended by from 30 to 40 persons. All the young persons in the parish above seven years of age, are in the course of being instructed in reading and writ- ing. The people, in general, shew much anxiety to have their children educated, and use every means to keep them at school OS long as' possible. The deed of settlement of the late Sir Joseph Straton of Kiilt- side contained a bequest of the sum of L.500 to the heritors and kirk'session of this parish, << for the purpose of promoting educa- tion within the parish." The parties in whom the management of this fund is vested have the power of applying it in ** such manner as may appear to them best calculated to promote" the intended object, and they have resolved, in the meantime, to lay out the interest arising from it, in the education, at the various schools in the parish, of such children as may be selected by the kirk-session from among the poorer classes of the people. Library^ — The parish library, which has existed for a number of years, under the management of the minister and kirk-session, contains about 750 volumes, chiefly of a religious kind. It was formed by a collection at the church doors, and by a subscription among the parishioners, and has had very little pecuniary support i 8T CYRUS. 895 * since its institution. The use of the books b free to all the in- *• habitants of the parish, and the librarian has given his gratuitous ■ senrices for an hour every Sabbath morning since the library was r* established. Smaller libraries, containing sets of the Religious ^ Tract Society's Sabbath School Libraries, are deposited at the I different. Sabbath school stations. Savingtf Bank^^^A branch of the Montrose National Security Savings' Bank was instituted in May 1841, and the deposits, up to the date of this report, amounted to L. 180. Friendly Society^ — A society, under the name of the St Cyrus Friendly Society, existed from 1796 to 1834, when it was dissolved* Pocr and Parochial Funds* — In the following table, shewing the state of the poor and parochial funds, at intervals, from 1781 to 18d5, are represented, (1.) the number of poor receiving stated monthly allowances ; (2.) the number of poor receiving half-yearly allowances ; (3.) the amount of collections at church doors ; (4). the amount of interest from stock-funds ; (5.) the dues from fu- nerals, marriages, &c. ; (6.) the annual expenditure; (7.) the ave- rage monthly allowance to each pauper; (8.) the average half- yearly allowance to each pauper in the years (9.) specified* 1. 2. & 4. 5. a. 7. a 9. L. 8. d. L. 8. d. Is, s. d. L. 8. d. L. 8 d. L. 8. d. 12 25 10 10 9 16 13 2 4 29 7 9 I 9 ••• • •• ... ,1781 18 25 25 U I 16 13 2 13 11 44 18 1 9 ••• • •• ... 1791 19 14 29 16 5 7 10 5 18 40 11 9 2 3 6 1806 22 S3 45 13 1 8 11 8 6 8 99 12 1 2 5 4 8 1815 25 17 70 6 4 7 13 2 12 11 97 15 3 5 7 9 1825 86 24 72 17 1 7 3 18 6 125 3 10 7 1835 The funds at the disposal of the kirk-session have been insuffi- cient, for a number of years, for the support of the poor. During the twenty years preceding 1836, contributions to the average amount of L.14 a year were received from the heritors of the pa^ rish : and in the same period, donations and legacies from per- sons not so directly connected with the parish were received to the amount of L.294. In the year just mentioned, the volun- tary contribution from the heritors was L. 30, and it has since been augmented to L.62, 10s. a year. The number of poor per- sons on the monthly list is at present 36. Three of these are males above the age of sixty years, three are females under sixty, and the remainder, thirty, are females above the age of sixty years. There are, besides, fourteen persons who have half-yearly allowances varying from 6s. to 12s.» and four who receive quarter- ly allowances of 5s. each. The stated monthly payments range 296 KINCARDINESHIRE. from 9s. to 1*4$. The stock-funds in the bands of the kirk-seswi are, Ist^ The residue of old session funds, amouming to Lhl50; 2dj L.100, a donation from William Dorward, Esq. of Montrose^ subject to a payment of L.3 per annum as interest during Mr Dor* ward's life ; Sd, L.20, a legacy received from the representatives of the late Mr Brand of Lauriston, as executor of Mr Duncan of — — ; 4fA, L.50, a legacy from Miss Sbank of JLaurencekirk, daughter of the late Rev. Alexander Sbank, minister of this pa- rish ; and 5th j L.500, a legacy from Sir Joseph Straton of Kirkr side. The last-mentioned bequest, which was received in 1840, and is managed as a separate fund from the ordinary funds of the kirk-session, is to be applied, according to the express will and in- tention of the donor, '^ strictly for the relief of poor persons with- in the parish, and in such a way as may be best calculated to en- courage provident habits on the part of such poor." The collec- tions at the church-doors have varied since 1887, from L. 70 to L.80 a year. The expenditure has been raised to above L.140 a year. This has been occasioned partly by the admission os the poor^s list of two or three families who have required, for some years past, allowances varying from L. 9 to L. 13 a year, and partly by a payment of about L. 8 a year to poor persons tra* veiling through the parish to their homes, or from town to town in search of employment. Each traveller is allowed dd. or more; and the whole number relieved in a year cannot be under 500. Ale-houses. — There is one ale-house near the Kirktown, another towards the east end of the parish, and a third at the North-wa« ter-bridge toll. The consumption of spirits at all these places is said to be enormous. FueL — English coals are the chief article of fuel. They are obtained at Montrose and Johnshaven at a cost of Is. Id. to Is. dd. per barrel ; carriage, five miles, 2d. to Sd. per barrel. General Observations. In the foregoing report the more important differences have been mentioned between the existing and former state of the pa- rish, as described in the account of 1791. It will have been ob- served, that a large extent of waste ground has been brought into cultivation. At the same time much arable land has been effi. ciently drained; many large farm-houses, and steadings suited to the extended size of farms, have been erected ; one large and se« veral smaller bridges have been built. Others have been height t. MARYKIRK. 297 if tened, and their approaches improved ; and thewhole of the pub- ■ lie roads have been reconstructed. ,i The number of poor and their stated allowances have been in- ■f creased two-fold. There has been for many years little or no in- k; door employment for aged females, a much earlier application for {\ parochial aid is therefore generally made by this class of persons £ than would have been needful under other circumstances. At f the period of the former account it was estimated <^ that 500 i spindles of coarse yarn, for the manufacture of saiUcloth, were I spun by the two-handed females of the parish, from which about p L.310 a year were brought into the parish. There were besides j the proceeds from the manufacture of finer sorts of yam for linen , and drapery for family use." There is no work of this kind now to . be obtained, and the want of it has been much felt by many whose • age and growing infirmities render them unfit for more severe em- ployment A very obvious alteration has taken place in the habits and style of living of the principal farmers. TTiey have certainly ad- vanced at a railroad pace in the march of, at least, physical im- provement On the other hand, the condition of the farm-labour- er has remained nearly stationary, though he enjoys more enlarg- ed means of education and intellectual improvement December 1841. PARISH OF MARYKIRK. PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS. THE REV. A. C. LOW, MINISTER. 1. — Topography and Natural Historv. Name. — The ancient name of this parish was Aberluthnott, or, as it is more commonly expressed in ancient writings, Aberluth- net This name seems to have been in use in the beginning of last century, from the fact of a pair of silver communion cups hav- ing been presented in the year 1715 for the use of the parish, bearing the following inscription : " This cup was given to the kirk of Aberluthnott by David Melvill and Jean Rait of Pitgarvie, 298 KINCARDINESHIRE. 1715." The ancient name is now in disuse^ having entirely gra place to the modern one of Marykirk. Extent, — Mary kirk parish is situated at the southern extreoit; of the extensive plain known by the name of Che ^' How of tk Mearns." Its extreme breadth from east to west is about 7 ndes; from north to south about 6 ; and its superficial contents aie la square miles. Boundariis. — This parish is of very irregular form. It is bounded on the south by the river North Esk, which is here tk boundary between the shires of Forfar and Kincardine, and oonb- nues to be so till it falls into the sea, about five miles below the most southerly point of this parish ; on the north and north-west, it is bounded by the parishes of Fordoun and Fettercaim ; on the east and north-east, by the parishes of St Cyrus, Garvock, sad Laurencekirk. Topographical Appearancet.'-^'The parish, in its aspect, is level, sloping gently from the east, north-east, and north towards the North Esk. The only rising grounds which deserve the name of hills are those of Kirkton-hill and Balmaleedie. They run nearly parallel, in a north-easterly direction, for about two miles, from a little above the village of Marykirk to the Wide-open, a large gap or cut in the ridge. By it they are separated from the hill of Gar- vock, of which, with this interruption, they may be said to be a continuation. They terminate, in their southern extremities, to- wards the village, in declivities sloping towards the North Esk. The climate is fully equal, and probably superior, to that of some of the surrounding parishes. Springs. — The parish is, in all parts, well supplied with water, and we are not aware of any inconvenience having been felt from the scarcity of this necessary of life, except in the summer of 1826, when the extraordinary drought of the sea- son dried up some of the brooks, obliging the farmers, in one or two districts, to drive their cattle to water to some distance from the farms. In the village of Marykirk, there are three springs, which supply the inhabitants with water, besides a small brook that flows through it, called, in ancient writings, ** The burn of Aber- luthnot." Of the three springs, the one known by the name of << the Lady Banks Well" is the best. By the side of the brook, a little above the village, there is a chalybeate spring, which wsis enclosed and covered over some years ago by the proprietor ; but the work has since been allowed to become ruinous. The spring El MARYKIRK. 299 m is neither c(^ious nor very strongly impregnated with iron. Close to the mansion-house of Balmanno is a very fine spring, known II formerly, it would seem, by the name of << St John's Well/* the r) water of which, in a more superstitious age, was held to be of pe- t culiar potency in curing diseases. On the farm of Muirtown, till ,-, very lately, there were two springs within ten yards of each other, very remarkable for their difference of temperature. The water of one is slightly impregnated with sulphur, but has not been ana- lyzed. They are both now dried by the tenant Rivers. — There are several small streams in this parish, such as the Black bum, the Dowry burn, the bums of Balmakelly and Balmaleedie, which, though highly useful to the inhabitants, can scarcely be deemed worthy of notice. The North Esk, and the small river of the Luther, are the only two streams at all worthy of the name of rivers connected with the parish. The North Esk has its rise in the neighbouring county of Forfar, and, flowing in an easterly direction, reaches the shire of Kincardine, after which, flowing in a south-easterly course, it divides the counties, and falls into the sea about four miles from Montrose. The Luther, rising in the Grampian hills, above the village of Fordoun, flows at first in an easterly direction, till it reaches the parish of Laurencekirk, through part of which it flows in a south-westerly course, and, being joined by several insignificant brooks, enters the parish of Marykirk, about a mile below the village of Laurencekirk. It still continues its westerly course, until within a mile of its junction with the North Esk, when it suddenly turns to the south, emptying itself into that river a little below the North-water-bridge, on the great north road from Edinburgh to Aberdeen. This small river, the Luther, may flow within the parish a distance of five miles, and from its source to its mouth may be about thirteen miles in length. Its temperature would seem to be higher than that of the larger stream of the North Esk. The North Esk and Luther both abound in excellent trout. Geology. — Little of a satisfactory nature can be stated regard* ing the geological structure of Marykirk. The whole parish ap- pears to rest on red sandstone, overlaid to a considerable depth by the original soil. The sandstone is, however, exhibited in the chan- nel of the North Esk, at Inglismaldie and other places, and is or has been worked at Balmakewan and Hatton, but to no great ex- tent, the expense of tirring the rock, and of clearing the quarry of . water, being such as to render the operations unprofitable. A I I ■ 300 KINCARDINB8HIBE. I ■i II- bed of coarse limestone traverses the parish from easttoiKit,x was formerly quarried at Balmakewan, and on the hxm of Bn on the estate of Kirktonbill ; but the inferior quality of the nd. j, and the expense of quarrying and bumingr, niade Uie woiki mc { be abandoned. This bed seems a continuation of the woe ni [i which traverses the high ground in the parishes of Lqgie Fbi k Stracathro', and Brechin, where it still contioues to be qouiid l| to some extent. \\ Trap and likewise conglomerate appear in the high groi]iidl» ' f' hind Kirktonhill and Balmaleedie* No ores, so far as knon. If have been found. The species of bastard whin or amygdaloidi cos- monly called the Scotch pebble rock, is sometimes found ; and nd crystal frequently. r SoiL — The soil of the parish is various^ but the greater part ol if it is weiradapted for the crops usually cultivated. In some places it is light, and sandy or gravelly ; in many places it contains boul- ders; but in the low-lying hohn^ along the banks of the Luther ■jl and North Esk, the soil consists of haugh or alluvial land; in other Si parts i^ is a wet and rather poor clay. In the north and north- 2 east parts of the parish, the soil, which was formerly moorish, has ':. by cultivation been greatly improved. Zoology* — The principal fishes are salmon, grilse, sea-trout, com- mon trout, and eels. The quantity of the two former in the Nortli £sk, where they are chiefly to be found, has decreased very mudi from what it was a few years ago. This is certainly owing to th< introduction of new modes of fishing, particularly along the sea coast, by stake and bag-nets, which eflectually prevent the fish from enter ing the river in any quantity, unless when, by the violence of wind and flood, the nets have been carried away from the niouth of the river. Botany, — The plants in this parish are of the most commor description. The Linnea borealis was first discovered to be a na< tive of Britain at Inglismaldie, in this parish, where it is found ii |- great abundance. About Inglismaldie, also, may be found seve y i ral varieties of the fern ; but the botanical treasures of the parisi I have never as yet been examined with attention. The plantations are extensive. The soil is adapted to th< growth of all the ordinary kinds of timber. Few of the trees hav ^ as yet attained great size, not being, in general, above sixty year of age. Inglismaldie has long been famed for its plantations € fir timber, some of which are upwards of one hundred years old and for size and quality are inferior to none in the count v. ■ -I I- '■■ MARYKIRK. 301 II. — Civil Histort. Eminent Men. — The Strachans of Thornton were men of con- siderable distinction in the service of their country. The late Dr Crombie, who was also proprietor of Thornton, and patron of the parish, was a man of eminence, and of great repute as an author. His works on Natural Theology, and particularly his Gymnasium, are deservedly held in high estimation. Land-'Oumer*. — The landed proprietors are, the Earl of Kin- tore ; Sir Alexander Ramsay, Bart. ; Robert Taylor, Esq. ; Alex- ander Crombie, Esq.; the Honourable General Hugh Arbuth- nott, M. P.; Lieutenant- Colonel Eraser; and Sir John .Stuart Forbes, Bart. Parochial Registers. — The registers of baptisms and marriages have been correctly kept since 1699. The records previous to that date appear to have been lost, from the following minute: — ^' The register of the baptisms within the parish of Aberluthnot since the dlst of August, being the admission day of John Thom- son, minister, the former books not being found. 1699.'* The books connected with the parish are not voluminous. Antiquities. — As is remarked in the former Statistical Account, <^ the antiquities of this parish are few in number and of no great importance/' To the little there said, little can be added ; in- deed the traditions there set forth are now scarcely known to any of the people. Since the date of the former account* several stone coffins have been discovered on the farm of Cobbleheugh, in which were found the remains of skeletons of a very large size. The Thornton Aisle, which bears the date of 1615, is still standing. The inscription on the beautiful monument which it contained, as well as the monument itself, are now nearly defaced. The whole interior of the aisle has suffered much from the depredations of the youngsters in the village, and the roof, which seems at one time to have been finely painted, has been destroyed almost en- tirely by the same mischievous hands. Part of the old cross of the village is still standing. Modem Buildings. — Of the modern buildings in the parish, the bridge over the North Esk, a little below the village of Mary- kirk, may be first noticed. It was begun in 1811, and finished in 1813. It is a neat substantial building, consisting of four circu- lar arches of equal size, and has proved of the greatest utility to the whole district of the county. The bridge over the North Esk, on the road leading from Aberdeen to Edinburgh, is of great an- 302 KINCARDINESHIRE. tiqutty, — it is this summer undergoing extensive repairs, by wVid it will be much beautified and improved. The mansion-house of Kirktonhill has beeo rebuilt since tk date of the last report It is a handsome building, and, frrnn its commanding situation, forms a prominent object in the district The mansion-house of Balmakewan has also been rebuilt siott the date of the former report. It stands on a rising ground oesr the North Esk, and is a neat and commodious structure surround- ed and sheltered by thriving and highly ornamental plantations. Inglismaldie, one of the seats of the Earl of Kintore, is ao dd faouse,iin a castellated form. It has not been occupied for wsm time, but is in tolerable repair. Thornton Castle, the property of Alexander Crombie, Esq. of Phesdo, is an ancient building, in the style of the Scotch castellat- ed mansion house ; part of it bears date 1531. It had been allov- ed to get into a ruinous state, but was repaired by the late Mr Crombie of Phesdo, about twenty years ago, with much taste and at considerable expense. In making these repairs the style and character of the old castle was strictly attended to — it is now a comfortable residence, and is occupied by a tenant. The House of Hatton, the property of the Honourable Ge- neral Hugh Arbuthnott, is neither large nor commodious. It is, however, in tolerable repair, and occupied by the tenant of the farm. The parish church, built in 1806, may also be noticed. It u a neat, though plain, building, and is capable of containing about 700 sitters. It occupies a site near the centre of the village, dif- ferent from that of the old one, which stood in the middle of the church-yard. Spinnniff-MilL — There is only one spinning-mill in the parish, at Caldhame. Flax is there manufactured ; the mill is driven by the Luther. All the buildings are of freestone, obtained generally from the quarries of Hatton, Balmakewan, Balmanno, in this parish, and also from Brechin and Laurieston ; chiefly from the last. III. — Population. According to Dr Webster's list of inhabitants, the population of this parish amounted in 1755 to 1280. According to Mr Garden's account, it amounted in 1774 to 1080. In 1793^ the population seems to have been 1481. Since that date the population has in- creased rapidly. By the census of 1821, it amounted to 1839; of 1831, to 2032. By a census taken in 1836, to 2200, and by MABYKIRK. 3j03 the census of 1841, it amounted to 2389. The increase of inha- bitants is to be attributed to the progress of manufactures, it be* ing principally observable in the Tillage of Luthermuir, where many weaving shops have been established. The parish contains two villages, Marykirk, in which the church stands, and Luthermuir, nearly four miles distant from it The former contains nearly 300 inhabitants, the latter about 1090, con- sequently about 1000 reside in the country part of the parish. The average number of births may be about 50, and of marriages 22, for the last seven years. The number of deaths cannot be given, there having been no record kept of such. Of nobility, there are none residing in the parish. Two fami- lies of independent fortune, Robert Taylor, Esq. of Kirktonhill, and Lieutenant- Colonel Frasef of Balmakewan, reside constantly in the parish. Each proprietor derives an income from land above L.50. The number of inhabited houses in the parish is 554 ; of un- inhabited houses, 20. There is only one insane person belonging to the parish ; fatu« ous, 8 : blind, 3 ; deaf and dumb, 2. The general character of the people is moral and religious ; they are decidedly intelligent. Poaching for game and also for salmon in the North Esk, has prevailed to a considerable extent in this parish hitherto, but it is hoped that the Kincardineshire Society for the Protection of Game will speedily put a stop to this demoralising practice. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — ** Marykirk is essentially an agricultural parish— the manufactures carried on being limited to a flax spinning-mill at Caldham, and the hand-loom weaving of linen in Luthermuir. To which may be added three or four saw-mills, chiefly employed in cutting up home-grown fir timber, for agricultural purposes. The parish contains 9320 imperial acres which may be thus classified : Arable, 6955 Pasture, - - - 573 Wood, chiefly Scots fir, 1592 Roads, rivers, &c. 260 Totol, . 0320* * In 1S07, the arable and pasture land was as under : arable, 4557 ; wood, 1800 ; pasture, 2963 ; total, 9320. 304 KrNCABDINBSHIBE. The arable land may be further stibdiTidcd into haugh on land, lying along the north bank of the North Esk, and tli' gin of the Luther water, the bum of Baimakellyj tbe Blad Doury burn, and the Forder bum, amouDtiD^ altogether t 350 acres ; light gravelly land on aD open bottom, 600 acres strong loam and old in6eld land, partly on a porous sub>soil acres ; inferior clay land and black moorish soil, on a wet a tentivc subsoil, 4405 acres ; total, 6955 acres. Tlie waste land and ground under planting is invariably clay, or moorish soil, of very inferior quality. The &n generally laid out in regular fields, by earthen dikes or fi thorn hedges and stone dikes being restricted to the home of Inglismaldie, Balmakewan, KirtonhitI, and BalmanDO. Till- rental of Marjrkirkmnuunu 10, uf land rent, - L.72Q5 KishinRs la llic Nortli Elk, - ~ - 40 AiiiiubI alee of wood, - - - 420 Toul, . 1.7685 Being at the rate of L. 1, Os. Qd. per imperial acre for the i land, and 2s. per acre for pasture and wood land. The valued rent of the parish is L.6066.' Gross Produce. — 1720, oali, 4i quarurs por acre, 7740 quari BOO. barlev, 3^ iguarlcn per acre. 2lW0 quarters, at L.l, lOs., S60, haj, 170 ilann per acre, 97,200, at 4i]. '. P" S L.I p 200, pouioes, 20 liulli prr acre, 4000 acres at 79. . MOU 1000, lutiiips, at 7<. per acre. . . 3500 4ja. ingraMpatlu,at I. I, lOi., . . . 682 a(iO. in fallow. Oat and liarlcf fodder, lO.&MI quarters, at 5a. . S63S 6a55acrc>. fL 23J)I| lAve-Stvck. — Horses used in husbandry, 210; carriage, die, and carriers' horses, 40 ; foals reared annually, *20 ; i 270 horses. Bulls, say, about 8 ; cows, 360 ; calves reared nually, 420; cattle of one and two years old, 760; total, ] cattie.J Of the above about 140 cattle may be fattened for the butc the remainder of the year's growth (about 240,) being sold t< grazier or dealer, when rising two or three years old. * In 1705, the renul was L.3300. In 1807, L.4099, 7a. 4d. t In 1807, the ground undvt crop and tlic produce »»■ as follow* : irlirn ■cmi bear, 500) oats, 1375; pc^iiv, 7,>i turnip, 250; potatoes, 62 ; flui, 15 low, 7.'^; (Cardcnt, 30i sawn grass, 2125 ; total, 4557 acre^ t In 1807, the live stock amounted to, lionei. HO; ridiuft horse, 15; foals total, IR5. Cowi, 2m; oien, 12; ealvcs, 240; other cattle, 708; loul, Slieep,200; >wi»e, 20. MARYKIRK. 305 From three to four hundred pigs may be reared and fattened every year, in the parish. Husbandry. — The alternate husbandry is in full operation ; the rotation followed being generally the five shift course. The crops cultivated are, barley, oats, turnips, potatoes, and grass ; little or no wheat is grown, and pulse crops scarcely enter into the rotation. Much attention is paid to the rearing of black*cattle, and to these the farmer looks for a great part of his rent The Angus or polled breed is in great estimation. The farms are generally small, there being only eight farms of 200 acres and upwards, with twelve of 100 and not amounting to 200 acres each, the re- mainder of the parish being divided into farms under 100 acres, and crofts of from two to twenty acres. The larger £airms are ac* commodated with suitable steadings, substantially built of stone and lime, and slated. A thrashing-mill is attached to every stead- ing where the extent of land amounts to 100 acres. Although much has been done in improving the land, still much remains to be ac- complished. The land, from being on a retentive subsoil, is ge- nerally wet, draining is therefore the first and most essential im- provement. This may be followed by planting for shelter, and by a more judicious and general mode of enclosing. Besides the flax spinning-mill at Caldham, there are in the pa- rish, six corn-mills, one flax-mill, and five saw-mills. Drying kilns are attached to the corn-mills. Salmori'JUhing. — Salmon-fishing is carried on, but not to a great extent, in this parish. There are, in the beginning of the season, generally five or six men employed at the rate of lOs. to 12s. 6d. a week, and towards the close only two or three at the same rate. The rents of the fishings amount to L.40. Manufactures. — As already mentioned, flax is manufactured at Caldham mill. About thirty hands are employed. They work about thirteen hours a-dav, and receive 4s. 6d. to ds. 6d. a-week. The foremen receive from 15s. to 21s. weekly. The other branch of trade is hand-loom weaving. This trade is carried on chiefly in Luthermuir, where nearly 200 persons are engaged in it. The yarn is supplied by Richards and Co. in Mon- trose, and by two companies from Brechin. The weavers work ge- nerally fourteen or fifteen hours a-day, and when the material was good, used to make from 1 Is. to 14s. a-week. . The wages have gradually fallen to 7s. or 8s. weekly. The trade has been so bad KINCARDINE. U 306 EINCABDINBSHIRE. for the last six months that several of the best hands ea have scarcely earned 3s. 6d. a-week. V, — Parocbial Ec»>NOMr. Markrt-Toiott. — There is no market-town io this pariib. K^ nearest is Montrose, distant about six miles from the vl ^ Marykirk, where every necessary of life can be procured al sonable rate. ^^^ . Meant ofCommunicatitm. — The means of cornmunicati joyed by the parish are, on the nhole, good. There i& a i V^ fice in the village of Marykirk, where letters are posted fi ^ i^'^ received through Montrose every day. The turnpike rot Aberdeen to Perth passes through the paiish, and the D coach goes and returns from Edinburgh every lawful day. commutation roads in the parish lead through it in various tions, and are generally good and well kept. The bridges the roads are in good repair. At Mill of Bams, a bridge ii wanted over the Luther. Eccletiattical State. — The parish church is very intxiovei situated. Its distance from the south boundary of the pi I Wonly about 300 yards^ and from the opposite extremitj fra iV to six miles. It was built in 1600, and is at present io go I pair. The number of sittings is 636) all unlet, and all all* to the heritors. The manse was repaired in 1838, at considerable expe the heritors, and is now comfortable and commodious. The glebe is four acres in extent, good land, and may be . L.10 yearly. There is no grass glebe, nor any remuneratii The stipend amounts to 150 bolls of meal and 126 tx bear, which, on an average, amount to L.300. The allo^ ,^ ^^ for communion elements is h.6, 6s. 8d. The surplus teioc J long to King's College, Aberdeen. There is no chapel ol ^1^ ^Y attached to the Established Church, nor any Govemment cl > ^y or missionary in the parish. There are two Dissenting chs ' one belongs to the Congregational Union, the other to the L Associate Synod. ^ The communicants belonging to the Established CI amount to 957. The communicants belonging to other sects reside in the parish, are, to the Congregational Union, 30 ; 1 ed Associate Synod, 63; Bereans, 9; Episcopalians, 12. Divine service at the Established .Church, and at the othei chapels, is generally well attended, The only collection for II MARYKIRK. 307 fi ntable purposes, made in the parish church, is for the Montrose Infirmary. It is made annually, and amounts, on an average, to ^ Education. — Besides the parish school, there are five pri- , vate schools, which, with the exception of one, which is endowed, p are on the teachers' own adventure. The parish school is at present vacant ; but the usual branches of English reading, writ- ing, arithmetic, mensuration, geography, and Latin have been taught. The average number of scholars for the last few years has been 50, and the average amount of fees L.20 yearly. The salary is L.dO, with a house, garden, and about four acres of ground. In 1 840, a handsome school and school-house was erects ed in Luthermuir by the liberality of Sir John Stuart Forbes, Bart, and by subscriptions from the heritors and others, which is endowed by the Society for the Propagation of Christian Know- ledge, with a salary of L.15 per annum ; besides which the teacher has about three acres of land rent free from Sir J. S. Forbes. It is attended by 60 scholars, and the average amount of fees may be L.22 yearly. In the private schools, English reading, writing, and arithmetic are generally taught. They are attended by about 160 scholars. The number of children attending school in the parish amounts to about 270. All the teachers, except one, are members of the Established Church, and, in all the schools, great attention is paid to the religious instruction of the pupils. There cannot be said to be any children in this parish between the ages of six and fifteen years who can neither read nor write, and, with the exception of a few old people, there are few above that age who cannot do sa In the parish generally, parents seem very anxious that their children shall enjoy the benefits of education ; but in Luthermuir, where children of tender years are of some use to their parents in their ordinary employments, their education has been much neglected ; and this is very visible in their conduct in after years. From the number of schools, there is every oppor- tunity for the instruction of the children, within a reasonable dis- tance of the abodes of the parents. Z ferent from that of the old one, which stood in the middle of the church-yard. Spinnnig-MilL — There is only one spinning-mill in the parish, at Caldhame. Flax is there manufactured ; the mill is driven by the Luther. All the buildings are of freestone, obtained generally from the quarries of Hatton, Balmakewan, Balmanno, in this parish, and also from Brechin and Laurieston ; chiefly from the last. III. — Population. According to Dr Webster's list of inhabitants, the population of this parish amounted in 1755 to 1280. According to Mr Garden's account, it amounted in 1774 to 1080. In 1793^ the population seems to have been 1481. Since that date the population has in- creased rapidly. By the census of 1821, it amounted to 1839; of 1831, to 2032. By a census taken in 1836, to 2200, and by MABTKIRK. 3j03 the census of 1841, it amounted to 2389. The increase of inha- bitants is to be attributed to the prog^ss of manufactures, it be* ing principally observable in the village of Luthermuir, where many weaving shops have been established. The parish contains two villages, Marykirk, in which the church stands, and Luthermuir, nearly four miles distant from it. The former contains nearly 300 inhabitants, the latter about 1090, con- sequently about 1000 reside in the country part of the parish. The average number of births may be about 50, and of marriages 22, for the last seven years. The number of deaths cannot be given, there having been no record kept of such. Of nobility, there are none residing in the parish. Two fami- lies of independent fortune, Robert Taylor, Esq. of Kirktonhill, and Lieutenants Colonel Fraset of Balmakewan, reside constantly in the parish. Each proprietor derives an income from land above L.50. The number of inhabited houses in the parish is 554 ; of un- inhabited houses, 20. There is only one insane person belonging to the parish ; fatu- ous, 8 : blind, 3 ; deaf and dumb, 2. The general character of the people is moral and religious ; they are decidedly intelligent. Poaching for game and also for salmon in the North Esk, has prevailed to a considerable extent in this parish hitherto, but it is hoped that the Kincardineshire Society for the Protection of Game will speedily put a stop to this demoralising practice. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — " Marykirk is essentially an agricultural parish— the manufactures carried on being limited to a flax spinning-mill at Caldham, and the hand-loom weaving of linen in Luthermuir. To which may be added three or four saw-mills, chiefly employed in cutting up home-grown fir timber, for agricultural purposes. The parish contains 9320 imperial acres which may be thus classified : Arable, 6955 Pasture, - - - 573 Wood, chiefly Scots flr, 1592 Roads, rivers, &c. 260 Total, - 9320* * In 1907, the arable and pasture land was as under : arable, 4557 ; wood, 1800 ; pasture, 2963 ; total, 9320. 304 KINCARDINESHIRE. The arable land may be further subdivided into baugb or alloTBl land, lying along the north bank of the North Esk, and the lDa^ gin of the Luther water, the burn of Balmakelly, the Black bm, Doury burn, and the Forder bum, amouDting* altogether to^ sn 350 acres ; light gravelly land on an open bottom, 600 acres; good strong loam and old infield land, partly on a porous sub^soil, 1600 acres ; inferior clay land and black moorish soil, on a wet and r- tentive subsoil, 4405 acres ; total, 6955 acres. The waste land and ground under planting is invariably a poor clay, or moorish soil, of very inferior quality. Tlie hma are generally laid out in regular fields, by earthen dikes or fencei; thorn hedges and stone dikes being restricted to the home fanns of Inglismaldie, Balmakewan, Kirtonhill, and Balmanno. The rental of Marykirk nmounts to, of land rent, - Lm7205 Fishings in the North Esk, - - - 40 O Annual sales of wood, ... 420 O Total, . 1^7665 Being at the rate of L. 1, Os. 2d. per imperial acre for the arable land, and 2s. per acre for pasture and wood land. The valued rent of the parish is L.6065,* Gross Produce. — A eras. J 720, oats, 44 quarters per acre, 7740 quarters, at L. 1, 28., 800, barley, 34 quarters per acre, 2800 quarters, at L.l, lOs., 260, hay. 170 stones per acre, 37,200, at 4d. 2260, pasture, L.l per acre, . . • 200, potatoes, 20 bolls per acre, 4000 acres at 7s. 1000, turnips, at 7s. per acre, 4J5, ingrnss parks, at I«. 1, lOs., . • . 260, in fallow. Oat and barley fodder, 10,540 quarters, at 5s. .8514 4200 C20 2260 14O0 awo 682 10 2635 6955 acres. fL 23,811 10 Tsive'Stoch — Horses used in husbandry, 210; carriage, sad* die, and carriers' horses, 40 ; foals reared annually, 20 ; total, 270 horses. Bulls, say, about 8; cows, 380; calves reared an- nually, 420; cattle of one and two years old, 760; total, 1568 cattle.J Of the above about 140 cattle may be fattened for the butcher ; the remainder of the year's growth (about 240,) being sold to the grazier or dealer, when rising two or three years old. • In 1795, the rental was L.3300. In 1807, L.4099, 7s. 4d. t Jn 1807, the ground under crop and the produce was as follows : wlicnt« 50 acres; bear, 500; oats. 1375 ; pease, 75 ; turnip, 250; potatoes, 62 ; flux, 15* faU low, 75 ; gardens, 90; sown grass, 2125; total, 4557 acres. X I" 1807, the live-stock amounted to, horses, 146; riding horse, 15; Ibals, 24* total, 185. Cows, 280; oxen, 12; calves, 240; other cattle, 70S; total, 1240.' Sheep, 200 ; swine, 20. MARYKIRK. 305 From three to four hundred pigs may be reared and fattened every year, in the parish. Husbandry. — The alternate husbandry is in full operation ; the rotation followed being generally the five shift course. The crops cultivated are, barley, oats, turnips, potatoes, and grass ; little or no wheat is grown, and pulse crops scarcely enter into the rotation* Much attention is paid to the rearing of black-cattle, and to these the farmer looks for a great part of his rent The Angus or polled breed is in great estimation. The farms are generally small, there being only eight farms of 200 acres and upwards, with twelve of 100 and not amounting to 200 acres each, the re- mainder of the parish being divided into farms under 100 acres, and crofts of from two to twenty acres. The larger farms are ac- commodated with suitable steadings, substantially built of stone and lime, and slated. A thrashing-mill is attached to every stead- ing where the extent of land amounts to 100 acres. Although much has been done in improving the land, still much remains to be ac- complished. The land, from being on a retentive subsoil, is ge- nerally wet, draining is therefore the first and most essential im- provement. This may be followed by planting for shelter, and by a more judicious and general mode of enclosing. Besides the flax spinning-mill at Caldham, there are in the pa- rish, six corn-mills, one flax-mill, and five saw-mills. Drying kilns are attached to the corn-mills. Salmon-fishing. — Salmon-fishing is carried on, but not to a great extent, in this parish. There are, in the beginning of the season, generally five or six men employed at the rate of 10s. to 12s. 6d. a week, and towards the close only two or three at the same rate. The rents of the fishings amount to L.40. Manufactures. — As already mentioned, flax is manufactured at Caldham mill. About thirty hands are employed. They work about thirteen hours a-day, and receive 4s. 6d. to 5s. 6d. a-week. The foremen receive from 15s. to 21s. weekly. The other branch of trade is hand-loom weaving. This trade is carried on chiefly in Luthermuir, where nearly 200 persons are engaged in it. The yarn is supplied by Richards and Co. in Mon- trose, and by two companies from Brechin. The weavers work ge- nerally fourteen or fifteen hours a-day, and when the material was good, used to make from I Is. to 14s. a-week. . The wages have gradually fallen to 7s. or Ss. weekly. The trade has been so bad KINCARDINE. U 306 KINCARDINESHIRE. for the last six months that several of the best bands emplofed have scarcely earned 3s. 6d. a-week. V. — Parochial Economit. Market 'Town. — There is no inarkei«town lo this parislu Tlie N^ nearest is Montrose, distant about six miles from the village of ^ Marykirky where every necessary of life can be pitxMired at a Ki- sonable rate. ^^^ • Means of Communication, — The means of communicatiOD es- joyed by the parish are, on the whole, good* There is a post-of- fice in the village of Marykirk, where letters are posted for, sad received through Montrose every day. Tbe turnpike road froa Aberdeen to Perth passes through the parish, and the Defiance coach goes and returns from Edinburgh every lawful day. The commutation roads in the parish lead through it in various dire^ tionsy and are generally good and well kept. The bridges od til the roads are in good repair. At Mill of Bams, a bridge is much wanted over the Luther. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church is very inconveoienllv situated. Its distance from the south boundary of the parish is Wonly about 300 yards, and from the opposite extremity from fire N to six miles. It was built in 1806, and is at present io good re- ij pair. The number of sittings is 638^ all unlet, and all allocated to the heritors. The manse was repaired in 1838, at considerable expense to the heritors, and is now comfortable and commodious. The glebe is four acres in extent, good land, and may be worth L.10 yearly. There is no grass glebe, nor any remuneration for The stipend amounts to 150 bolls of meal and 126 bolls of bear, which, on an average, amount to L.200. The allowance .^ ^^ for communion elements is L.8^ 6s. 8d. The surplus teinds be- J^ ^^ long to King's College, Aberdeen. There is no chapel of ease ^^ ^y attached to the Established Church, nor any Government church ^V or missionary in the parish. There are two Dissenting chapels ; one belongs to the Congregational Union, the other to the United Associate Synod. The communicants belonging to the Established Church amount to 957. The communicants belonging to other sects, who reside in the parish, are, to the Congregational Union, 30 ; Unit- ed Associate Synod, 63 ; Bereans, 9 ; Episcopalians, 1 2. Divine service at the Established .Church, and at the other two chapels, is generally well attended. The only collection for cha MARYKIRK. 307 ntable purposes, made io the parish church, is for the Montrose Infirmary. It is made annually, and amounts, on an average, to L.6. Education. — Besides the parish school, there are five pri- vate schools, which, with the exception of one, which is endowed, are on the teachers' own adventure. The parish school is at present vacant ; but the usual branches of English reading, writ- ing, arithmetic, mensuration, geography, and Latin have been taught. The average number of scholars for the last few years has been 50, and the average amount of fees L.20 yearly. The salary is L.dO, with a house, garden, and about four acres of ground. In 1 840, a handsome school and schooUhouse was erects ed in Luthermuir by the liberality of Sir John Stuart Forbes, Bart, and by subscriptions from the heritors and others, which is endowed by the Society for the Propagation of Christian Know- ledge, with a salary of L. 15 per annum ; besides which the teacher has about three acres of land rent free from Sir J. S. Forbes. It is attended by 60 scholars, and the average amount of fees may be L.22 yearly. In the private schools, English reading, writing, and arithmetic are generally taught. They are attended by about 160 scholars. The number of children attending school in the parish amounts to about 270. All the teachers, except one, are members of the Established Church, and, in all the schools, great attention is paid to the religious instruction of the pupils. There cannot be said to be any children in this parish between the ages of six and fifteen years who can neither read nor write, and, with the exception of a few old people, there are few above that age who cannot do so. In the parish generally, parents seem very anxious that their children shall enjoy the benefits of education ; but in Luthermuir, where children of tender years are of some use to their parents in their ordinary employments, their education has been much neglected ; and this is very visible in their conduct in after years. From the number of schools, there is every oppor- tunity for the instruction of the children, within a reasonable dis- tance of the abodes of the parents. Library, — There is a library consisting of about 200 volumes, chiefly religious, which was presented to the parish by Patrick Taylor, Esq., son of the late John Taylor, Esq. of Kirktonhill, before he left the parish for Australia. It is highly valued by the people, and, in the winter season, much read. Friendly Societies. — There is a sort of Friendly Society or rather 308 KINCARDINESHIRE. Savings bank, which has been in operation in Luthermuir for about twelve years. The nature of it is this : The members contribute 6d., ]s.y or 2s. 6(L weekly as they can; this sum^ as it accuma- lates, is lent out at interest anaong the members^ in sums not ex- ceeding L.5, for which the member borrowing g^iTes, as seeuritj, two other members of the society^ who may not require the use of such a sum. A great part of the funds are lent out in this way, and the money not so lent is laid out to the best advantage^ and the whole sum, principal and interest, is divided at the year's end among the members in proportion to their weekly contributioo. This society has been very useful in the parish. There being no proper Savings bank, the people generally avail themselves of those established in the neighbouring parishes of Logie-Pert and Fettercairn. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor on the roll is 50, and the average allowance 4s* a month to each. Besides these there are about 20 others who receive occasional re- lief. The ordinary church collections, including collections at the communion, amount to L.50 ; the interest of stock funds* L.20^ 17s. 6d.; the dues of mortcloths, L.4, 2s. 8d. ; voluntary contri- butions from the heritors, in proportion to their valued rents, amount to from L.100 to L.150. There is a growing disposition, on the part of the poor, to seek parochial relief, and they seem to have no idea of any thing degrading in it. Fairs, — There is now an annual fair in the parish, held on Bal- makelly moor, on the last Friday of July, for the sale of cattle, horses, sheep, wool, and for the engagement of harvest shearers. It is called St James's fair. It was formerly held on the Hill of Garvock, but was removed to Balmakelly moor about two years ago, for the better accommodation of dealers. Inns and Alehouses. — There are six inns or alehouses in the pa- rish, certainly far too many ; but they seem to be less frequented now than they were a few years ago. There cannot be a doubt that they have a bad effect on the morals of the people. Fuel. — Coals are chiefly used. They are obtained in Montrose at a cost of Is. 2d. per barrel, and the cartage to Marykirk may be about 4d. a barrel more. Brushwood is also to be had in con- siderable quantities, at the price of Is. 6d. per load. The farmers may obtain turf and peat from the moss of Arnhall, in the parish of JPettcrcairn, on account of their farms ; but they do not avail themselves of their right to a great extents KINNEFF. 309 Miscellaneous Observations. The agricultural improvements of the parish, since the date of the last Report, have been very great The land is now mostly improved, and in a high state of cultivation. That incapable of improvement has been planted with wood, which seems to be ge- nerally thriving. Luthermuir, which, at the time of the last Report, seems to have been deemed unworthy of notice, being at that time only a barren moor, is now mostly cultivated, and contains a population, as already stated, of above 1000. On account, however, of the decline of manu&ctures, especially the weaving trade, it is begin- ning to decrease in point of population, but to advance in several other respects. A few years ago, this place seems to have been the resort of the destitute and abandoned from almost every parish in the country. It is pleasing to remark, that it is improving very fast in point of morality and religion, — persons of a loose charac- ter having been obliged to leave it from want of work, and the re- maining inhabitants becoming more alive to their duties both to God and man. May 1842. PARISH OF KINNEFF. PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARN8. THE REV. THOMAS BROWN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name* — This parish seems to have derived its name from the Castle of Kinneff, the remains of which may still be seen in the neighbourhood of the church. According to a local tradition, Kenneth, one of the Kings of Scotland, was its founder, and it was afterwards retained as a royal residence. Boundaries, — The parish is nearly triangular in figure, having for its boundaries, on the south, Bervie ; on the east, the German Ocean ; on the north, Dunnottar ; and on the west, Arbuthnott It extends 5 miles along the sea coast, its breadth at the northern extremity being about 4, and at the southern less than half a mile. According to a survey made by Mr Garden in 1774, it contains 6408 English acres. 310 KINCARDINESHIRE. The sea-coast, along its whole extent, is rocky, presenting a range of cliffs about 180 feet in height, and generally with bo beach intervening to separate them from the deep water. Oe» sionally, they fall back into little bays, where a narrow stripe o( coarse gravel is heaped up by the waves, but sand is almost as- known. Though bare of wood, the soil is fertile, ofken eovend with rich verdure to the edge of the sea, and the rugged aspect of the rocks, their deep caves, and precipitous cliffs offer much tint is bold and picturesque to the lovers of natural scenery. The high grounds which traverse the parish have marked out several well-defined districts into which it may be divided. Alocg the sea coast stretches a low-lying tract of deep loamy soil, varjiog from a quarter to about three-quarters of a mile in breadth, which has long been celebrated for its abundant crops of grain. Passing inland over the hill of Slains, a district of inferior value presents itself, bounded on the north by a range of elevated ground, which rises at one point into the hill of St John. Beyond, lies the ** Und of Barras/' — a district where the effects of recent agricultural im- provement are very marked. Close to the furthest boundary on the north-west is the hill of Bruxie, 650 feet in height, and the most elevated point in the parish. The Todheadand Craig David or Bervie Brow are well-known land- marks on the coast, rising bold and steep over the German Ocean. Geology. — The rocks consist, for the most part, of old red sand- stone conglomerate. They are well exposed along the coast, dip- ping from east to west generally at an angle of less than 25°. The strata are of considerable thickness, and present every variety in their composition, — the smaller grained sandstones being some- times suddenly overlaid by deep confused masses of gravel and boulders compactly bound together by hard cement. The bould- ers and pebbles of the conglomerate are chiefly masses of granite, gneiss, quartz, and porphyry. Near Wbistleberr)*, a thin irregu- lar layer of impure limestone occurs. Traces of igneous action also are not unfrequent. A claystone porphyry, with imbedded crys- tals of felspar, sometimes overflows the conglomerate, and, at other points, inserts itself among the strata. It is known by the provin- cial name of scurdy^ and, in various places through the parish, hcis been quarried for fences, and sometimes even houses. Calcareous spar traverses the conglomerate in long veins. Clay- stone, hornblende, crystallized quartz, heavy-spar, asbestos, and zeolite have been observed. Agates also occur, but not frequentlv. KINNEFF. 311 Botany. — The surface of the parish, varying from the rocky sea- coast, to the upland marsh and heathy moor, presents a consider- able field for native plants. Among the more remarkable is the Siiefie mttanSf not hitherto observed so far north, which blossoms in great profusion among the rocks. Primula verts and P. elatior, contrary to tho statement of Hooker, are found growing abundant- ly with P. vulgaris^ in circumstances which cast doubt on their claims to the rank of species. Close to the sea the Geranium tanguineum hangs forth its showy flowers ; while the scarcely less beautiful Gentiana campestrisj and Astragalus hgpeglottisy with the more common Silene maritima and Dianthus deltaideSf also adorn the banks. The native JPktci of the rocks do not present much that is re- markable or rare. Dulse {Rhodomenia palmata) grows large on the conglomerate where exposed to the tide ; Iridcpa edulis and Catenella opuniia occur more sparingly ; and in sheltered spots no- thing can exceed the beauty of Delesseria sanguinea and Odantha^ lia dentata^ with their elegant deep-red fronds floating beneath the wave. In some instances, the native plants are turued to economical purposes. Broom is employed for thatch, many poorer houses in the parish being covered with it. The younger shoots are chiefly used, and are bound down to the roof with ropes of straw, or, when greater durability is desired, of heather. The latter are twisted with the hand by shepherds in the neighbourhood. The whin is sometimes employed for feeding cattle. On several small farms there is an apparatus in use» driven by a horse, for bruising the branches of the plant, and preparing them for food. Dulse is much eaten, being gathered to a considerable extent during the summer months, and carried inland in carts for sale. The young shoots of the tangle (Laminaria digitata) are also similarly used. II. — Civil History. When King David Bruce returned from France in 1341, he was pursued by the English fleet, and driven so far from his di- rect course, that the first point of his kingdom which he touched was the shore of Kinnefil In gratitude for bis escape, he after- wards caused a chapel to be erected on the spot, and mass per- formed. The ruins of this building, which were standing at the date of the last Statistical Account, have since disappeared ; but the bold rock under which he landed, still bears the name of Craig 312 KINCARDINESHIRE. David ; and there is a spring faoiiliarly known as the *^ Qufel Well." During the civil war, when Scotland was invaded by the E^ lish forces under Cromwell, a circumstance occurred of much in- terest in the history of the parish. After the battle of Dunbtr,tt rapidly was the country overrun by the enemy, that the r^piii (by order of Parliament, 6th June 1651,) were coofejed far greater security to Dunnottar Castle, then a fortress of gm strength, defended by Lieutenant-Governor Greorge Ogihieyrf Barras, with a garison of about 100 men. Close siege was laid to it during the years 1651 and 1652, and the English commanden' in all their movements displayed the utmost anxiety to gain pos- session of the ensigns of Royalty. This desire was baflSed by Christian Fletcher, wife of James Granger, minister of KioneiL According to local tradition, Mrs Granger was returning one day from Stonehaven, when she requested of the Enfj^lish forces per- mission to visit the castle. This request must have seemed the more reasonable, from the circumstance, that the commander of the place, Ogilvie of Barras, and his lady, who shared with him the hardships of the siege, were parishioners of Kinneff. Without hesitation, therefore, she was permitted to enter, and the garrisoa being nearly reduced to the necessity of surrendering, the regalia were entrusted to her care. The sceptre and sword of state were concealed in a bag or fish'creel, among hards of lint, and carried by a female attendant. The crown Mrs Granger herself took in charge, covering it in her apron, and in this guise passed without obstruction the English forces — their general himself, it is said, with the utmost politeness, assisting the lady to her horse. After be- ing thus rescued, the regalia were kept, ^^ sometimes in the church of Kinneff, concealed under the pulpit, and at other times in a double- bottomed bed in the manse, till the Restoration, in 1660, when they were delivered to Mr George Ogilvie, who re- stored them." The parties engaged in these transactions were • The names of tlie«c cominanders are variously given. Sir W. Scott, without quoting authority, says that the castle was summoned to surrender, on November 8, by Lieutenant- General Overtoun ; and again, on December 22, by Lieutenant- Co- lonel Dutton. In Jamieson's edition of Slezcr*s Thcatrum Scotiae it is said to ba\c been besieged by Lambert, one of the Parliamentary Commissioiiers in Scotland at the time. Ogilvie is said to have surrendered to Major- General Deane, on 4th June 1652 (Whitelocke, Mem. quoted by Scott); but in the account of the Regalia by JBannatyne Club, Colonel Thomas Morgan is represented as commanding the Eng- lish. Deane was Commander-in-Chief in Scotland at the time, and afterwards <^rant- ed Ogilvie a protection, on condition of bin not going farther than throe miles from his house at Harms. KINNEFF. 313 afterwards rewarded by the Goveroment of Charles, but not cer- tainly in the direct ratio of their services. Mrs Granger, to whose presence of mind the merit was chiefly due, had 2000 merks voted her by Parliament (January 11, 1661). Mr Ogilvie was made a Baronet, but received no compensation for the fines and seques- tratiouB to which his estate had been subjected. Sir John Keith, the nominal governoj of the castle, was created Earl of Kintore, partly in compliment to his mother, Margaret Erskine, Countess Marischal, under whose authority Idrs Granger acted, and partly on account of the imj^risonment he suffered from taking on him« self the fictitious responsibility of having carried abroad the rega* lia, and delivered them to Charles II. A tombstone, erected in the church of Kinneff to the memory of Mr Granger, bears the fol- lowing inscription : — Scotia Grangeri cui ioricnia regia debet Servata, hie cineres reliquiaeque jacent ; Abaculit obsetto poene haeo captiva Ounotro, Condidit et sacra qua tumulator* humo. Praeioia dant Superi, Patrii senrator honoris Sceptra rotat superos inter atbleta chores. Eminent Men. — " The famous Dr John Arbuthnott, intimate friend of Pope and Swift, and physician to Queen Anne, lived for some time in this parish. His father, the minister of Arbuthnott, was, at the Revolution, turned out of his living, by his chief and patron. Lord Arbuthnott, who was then a very keen partizan ; upon which he retired to his own property of Kingorny, where he lived for some time, having his son, the Doctor, a young man, along with him." Land- owners. — There are nine proprietors in the parish. The lands of Kinneff, including nearly one-half of the valued rental, are held by the Trustees of the late Lord Keith ; the estate of Barras, by the Trustees for Donaldson^s Hospital in Edinburgh ; and the lands of Catterline, with Chapel of Barras, by Lord Ar- buthnott. The remaining heritors are, the Heirs of the late C. Abercrombie of Bellfield ; T. G. Straiten of Castle of Fiddes ; * Tumulatur ? The poetical version of these lines here subjoined is by the Rer. J. M. Mitchell, now of Bombay. Reader, here Granger^s sacred ashes lie, Who, patriotic, every danger braved, To whom for th* emblems of her royalty Scotland indebted stands ; for these he saved, And from Dunnottar*s leagured towers conveyed, And in this sacred pile in secret laid. Who but the Power Supreme could e*er bestow Reward suflBcient for desert like this? He who his country*8 honour saved below, Now wields a sceptre iti the realms of bliss. 314 KINCARDINESHIRE. Dr William Young of Fawsyde; the Town of Montrose^ as Trus- tees for Erskine's Fund ; the Heirs of the late Rev. P. Stewart of Coltbank of Hilton ; and the Heirs of the late John Low of Mains of Hilton* Parochial Registers. — The session records are complete from the settlement of Mr Honey man, in 166d» though the first volume is much injured, and in many places illegible.- AnHquMes* — Of the Castle of Kinneff nothing now remains but a small part of the foundations. It is mentioned by Buchanan in his History as having been garrisoned by the English, when they overran the country during the minority of David Bruce. At what period it was permitted to fall to ruin does not appear ; but early in last century ^* one high wall of the said castle" is describ- ed as standing *' so strongly cemented, that stones may be easier won out of a quarry" than from it.* A religious house, called St Arnty*s Kill, (St Arnold's Cell, Macf. MSS.) is mentioned in the former Statistical Account as standing ** at the north corner of the farm garden, in a straight line between the church and the castle." It has since wholly dis- appeared. ** Near the Castle of Kinneff, and beyond a small headland about one hundred paces north-east, there are to be seen the remains of an old work upon the top of a peninsular rock, call- ed the Castle of Cadden. It seems to have had a ditch and drawbridge to protect it from an attack by land, where there re- main some vestiges of masonry. The rest seems to have been an earthen mound thrown up about the top of the rock. About two hundred paces further north-east is another peninsular rock, having the remains of a drawbridge to the land side. Updn the top of this rock are still extant the remains of a small house and other buildings said to have been inhabited by a private gentle- man about one hundred and fifty years ago, and is named the Castle of Whistleberry. And about two hundred paces north- east from this last mentioned castle are the remains of a third stronghold, very much like the first in every respect, but much larger. It is called Adam's Castle. With respect to the Castle of Cadden, and Adam's Castle, there are no traditionary accounts.^'f * Macfar. MSS. p. 323. t The remains of tiiese strongholds are now less distinct, and the older description therefore, i« here retained. The coast must have presented a striking appeardmce' with iu fortified castles thus crowning the bolder headlands, and standing id ao dose* 4 KINNEFF. 315 ** Four or five years ago, in digging a grave for Lady Ogilvie of Barras, in the church of Kinneff, there was found buried in an earthen pot about a pound and a half of old silver coins. They were almost all of one size, about the breadth of a sixpence; a few about half that size ; and all bore either the impression of Edward of England, or of Alexander of Scotland. The impression and legend on the Scotch coins are much better executed than on the English. It is likely this treasure might have been laid where it was found about the year 1336, when the English garrison occu- pied the Castle of Kinneff.'' ^* There was a tumulus or cairn upon St John's hill opened about twenty years ago, in the bottom of which, a little under the sur- face of the ground, were found three long flat stones, one of them covering the other two, and having a shorter one at each end. In this was contained nearly a cart-load of rich black earth, having a mixture of half-burnt bones and bits of oak charcoal, without any kind of urn. There are other tumuli in the parish."* The late Rev. A. Stewart, minister of this parish, presented, in 1834, to the Society of Antiquaries, a vase, with a number of bronze rings of various sizes, two of them entire, the rest in frag- ments, with a spear«head of bronze. The following interesting description by Mr Stewart is preserved in the Society's minutes :f ^* These relics of antiquity were found on the 15th December 1831, by my workmen, while trenching a field on the top of a cliff overhanging the German Ocean, and near the site of the old Castle of Kinneff. The piece of metal resembling the point of a spear, or part of a sword, was discovered about twelve inches be- low the surface of the ground, lying across the mouth of the urn, but separated from it by a layer of earth about two inches thick. Round the mouth of the urn there was an outer edge or rim about two inches in depth, and of the same material as the urn itself; but it crumbled into dust on being handled. The urn was quite full of earth compactly pressed together. And on the surface of this earth, were found the inner rings set upon their sides, and which were broke into their present state by the workmen at* tempting to pull them out of the earth. At the bottom of the proximitj. Among the lands in which Sir Robert Arbuthnott is served heir to his father in 1633, I find the Castle of Whistleberrj described as a *' manor-place**-^ ^ cum maneriei loco vocato Qwhissilberie.'* Inquisitiones 8|>eciale8 Kincardbe, 62. * Former SutisUcal Account. t For this extract I am indebted to Joseph Robertson, Esq. Secretary to the So- ciety. 316 KINCARDINESHIRE. urn, were found the larger rings entire, and also two buttoo-dBji- ed ornaments, the one made of a substance resembling boDe,iiit other of a substance like coaL The latter was quite entire vba discovered, but has since fallen to pieces." IIL — POPUI«ATION. There has been comparatively little fluctuation in the nomlNf of inhabitants, which, so far as they can be traced at different pe- riods, have been as follows : In the year 1755, Uie number of inhabitanU vas 856 1782, about 1000 1811, 952 1821, . 1096 1881, 1006 1841, . . 1029 The number of deaths for 1841 was 24, but the average msj be somewhat less. Births average 30, and oaarriages about 9. The number of persons of different ages may be stated to be- Under 15 yean of age, • 389 15 and under SO, 277 90 50, J91 50 70, las Above 70, . . 94 The families are 205 in number ; inhabited houses, 204 ; and uninhabited, 14 There is one individual blind, two fatuous or lunatic, and two are deaf and dumb. The only resident proprietor is Dr William Young of Fawsvde. All the heritors draw upwards of L.50 of rental. IV. — Industry. According to the survey of Mr Garden, the number of impe- rial acres in the parish is 6408. Of these^ 4798 are in tillage, and about 250 of the remainder might, with a profitable outlay of capital, be brought into cultivation. Only 53 acres are under wood. Ilenty Sfc. — The average rent of arable land per imperial acre is about L.1, 3s. 6d. T^eases are granted generally for nineteen years, a period considered favourable both to landlord and tenant. Wages. — The wages of married farm-servants average about L.12, 12s. per annum, 6^ bolls of oatmeal, with land for potatoes, a house and garden, and a daily allowance ol \\ Scotch pint of milk in summer, and 1 pint in winter. Unmarried servants en- gage for six months, and the Average wages may be L.7, lOs., with the same allowance of milk and meal as the married servants. Able day-labourers are paid Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per day in summer, and Is. in winter, with victuals. Reaping is performed for 3s., and B KINNEFF. 317 ill green-crop hoeing for 4s. per imperial acre. Country artisans ri do their work by the piece or contract. K Live-Stock. — The breed of cattle kept is the polled Angus, and on several farms great attention has been paid to their im- provement. No sheep are bred in the parish. The black-eattle [ are sold either at two years old for grazing, or at three years old I when fit for the butcher. No very extensive improvement of waste land has recently i taken place in the parish. It is found in some instances where ' heathy moor has been reclaimed, that it will not ultimately be of advantage for landlord or tenant. The state of farm-buildings is generally good, and agriculture is carried on with great spirit. The principal obstacle to improve- ment is the want of encouragement by proprietors to draining and properly enclosing the land. A few farms are partly enclosed with stone-dikes, erected at the expense of the proprietor, — the tenant paying interest on the money expended ; but generally two- fifths of the arable land, being kept in grass, is inclosed with wooden railing, which occasions considerable expense to the farmer, and not only forms a very imperfect fence, but affords no shelter, which is much wanted in this ex[Josed climate. Qtiarries, — Several freestone quarries aiford sufficient material for the buildings within the parish, but are of no further advan- tage to the proprietors. The rocks along the coast furnish ex- cellent mill-stones, which have long been in high repute, and are sent to a considerable distance. They cost from L.5 to L.10. Fisheries. — A salmon-fishing is rented at L.15. At the fishing village of Catterline there are two boats' crews, and at Shieldhill there is only one boat weekly manned. Produce. — As nearly as can be ascertained, the following may be the value of the gross produce raised in the parish : Grain of all kindA, Turnips and potatoes, StraW) • xxaj) • • • . Pa5ture, Fisheries, L. 15,910 V. — Parochial Economy. ■ MarheUTowns. — The market- towns chiefly resorted to by the parishioners are Stonehaven and Bervie, the former lying about four and a-half miles to the north, and the latter close to the L.8450 2900 2010 600 2000 550 318 RINCAUDINBSHIR£. boundary on the south. The fishings station of Catterline eoi- taining, inclusive of the coast-guard, upwards of twenty families^ is the nearest approach to a village. Mean» of Communication. — In few parishes have the roads bes better constructed or more carefully maiotaioed. Besides ik great coast road from Edinburgh to Aberdeen, and the Stntk- more road, which forms the boundary to the north-west, there » about eighteen miles of parish roads, and the manner in wiiid they are kept in repair is such as to reflect great credit oo tk trustees. It is perhaps deserving of notice, that Mr Stevenson, Cifil Eo- gineer, so far back as 1820, surveyed a line of railway extendiK from the port of Aberdeen, through the valley of Strathmore tc the town of Crieff, on one uninterrupted level of 104 miles; ao^ cumslance of which there is perhaps no other instance in tbe united kingdom.* Should this magnificent design be carried into execution, the railway will pass through the parish of Kinnei, and may give much commercial importance to the district At Catterline, a pier has been lately constructed, by the Vis- count Arbuthnott, which will be of great service to small coastiog vessels unlading lime and coals. It is understood the situalioo presents many natural advantages for more extended and safe harbour accommodation. Ecclesiastical State. — Previous to the Reformation, the parish of Kinneff included also Bervie and Catterline. £ven so late as 1608, *^ By a decree of the Lords Commissioners of Teinds, tbe parish of Bervie is decerned to remain a part of the parish of Kinneff, and because there was no bridge on the river of Bervie, the minister of Kinneff agreed to keep a suffragan at Bervie.** (Former Statistical Account). But while the boundaries of the parish were thus more extensive, the places of worship were also more numerous than now. In addition to Kinneff, Bervie, and Catterline, there seems to have been religious service in Barras, at the chapel of St John. At what time this chapel fell into dis- use does not appear, but the right of presenting to it is several times mentioned in the seventeenth century, f That it may have * See Memorial relative to opening tbe great valleys of Strathmore and Scratheam, by Robert Stevenson, Civil Engineer. Edinburgh, 1821. t In 1631, Alexander Stratoun, of that Ilk, was served heir to his father in the lands of Herbourscbeillu, Glassland, &c. '* cum advocatione (patronage, advowson) eapellariae de St John in Kinneff vocatae Barras.** (Inquia. Spec. Kincard. Ko. 56). Ten years later, it is found in the hands of another family, for, in 1641, Par- liament passed a ratiScation in favour of William Gray, and of his son, the Master of ^ KINNEFF. 319 ■ had some connection with the Knights- Templars has been inferred, ■ partly from its name, (the chapel of St John), and partly from other circumstances. In 1632, among the lands in which Sir II Robert Arbuthnott was served heir to his father, we find ** Terris I templariis de Kinneflf infra parochiam de Kinneflf." These ** ter- II rae templariae'*' would seem to have belonged at some period to I the Knights of the Temple. There is still a house in the parish I well known by the name of the Temple, and there is the hill of St John, at the foot of which lies a farm called the Chapel of Barras. The first minister of Kinneff after the Reformation was Mr Alexander Keith. From the ^* Register of Ministers and their Stipendis sen the year 1567," printed for the Maitland Club, he appears to have held the parishes of Katerling, Barvie, Arbuth- nott, and Garvott, in addition to Kinneff, and to have enjoyed in all an income of L.26. He was succeeded by Mr James Raitt, who died in 1620. Mr James Strachan, the next incumbent, was deposed at the period of the second Reformation in 1639.* To him succeeded Mr James Granger, who died in 1663. At that period, Episcopacy having been established, James Honeyman, brother to the Bishop of Orkney, was appointed to Kinneff, which he held till his death in 1693. He was succeeded by his son Andrew, who, in the call inserted in the session records, under date March 19, 1693, is described as a preacher of the Gospel, and who appears to have continued without ordination till 1702. On his death in 1733, he was succeeded by his son James, who, again, in 1780, was followed by a son of the same name, the latter surviving only for a single year. For four generations, during 118 years, the parish had thus been held by the members of a single family. Mr Patrick Stewart was settled in May 1782, and his son, Mr Allan Stewart, as assistant and successor in Septem- ber 181a Graj, of all the lands in whieh they were infeft, among others, the lands of KinnefT, with the tower thereof, and the patronage of the chaplainry of the chapel of Barras. — Acts of Parliament of Scotland, Vol. ? . p. 025. * He must have been a very lealoos partisan, (br, when Episcopacy was again in the ascendant, we find Parliament (Sd Mar 1661), granting him the sum of L.100 Sterling, in consideration that he ** has been put to great sufferings these many yeares bygone, and alwayes given constant testimony of his loyaltie and a£Feotion to the King's Majestie, and injustly deposed from his service at the kirk of Kinneff for the same.** Wodrow says that Archbishop Gladstanes, in his youth, was minister of « the church of Saint Kenneth, in the shire of the Meams.** (Bi<»grap. Collect. I. p. 284). Kinneff u probably meant, but 1 have been unable to find any confirmation of the statement. 320 KINCARD1N£SUIR£. Oq It was in 1709 that the parish of Catterline was united to that ^ of Kinneflf, an addition of ^0 merks beings made to the Ufiog. The present parish church was built in 1738^* repaired in 17M, ^^ and again in 1831. It is situated close to the sea, aod eztreoielT inconvenient for a great part of the parishioDers. The attiop . •> furnished are 424, a number insuflScient for tbe parish, and tb VjTN evil 18 rendered the greater, from the circumstance that they ve -^ divided according to the valued rent, in consequence of whkii ir- rangement many of the proprietors do not possess nearly the lepl accommodation required by the tenants and their servants. The manse was built also in 1738^ and has been twice enlaipd and repaired. The stipend consists of 16 chalders, one-half beine barley aod the other oatmeal. The value is fixed according to the fiars prices and paid in money. The two glebes of Kinneff and Catterline are worth about L.28. The usual allowance of L.8, 6s. 6d. is made for communion elements. The communicants on the roll of the Established Church ave- rage about 480. The only Dissenters in the parish are eighteen families of Scottish Episcopalians, two Seceders, three Independ- ents, and one Berean. During the past year there was collected in the church for re- ligious objects, L.10, 15s. 4d. There is an annual collection for the Aberdeen Infirmary, amounting to from L.7. to L.8. Education. — The history of the parish school of Kinneff forms an instructive example of the difficulties which the Church of Scotland has sometimes met in promoting the interests of educa- tion. Notwithstanding tbe repeated acts of the Legislature, en- joining the heritors of every parish to " provide a commodious house for a schoole, and modifie a stipend to the schoolmaster,'* we find the kirk-session of Kinneff at a comparatively late period complaining, that ^' all endeavours to induce the heritors to call one to be schoolmaster had been fruitless." Mr Honcyman, there- fore, and his elders, considering '^ the necessity of having a weel qualified schoolmaster for teaching the youth within the parish," resolved of themselves to procure one. On Sabbath, April 8th 1705, the minister intimated from the pulpit, that, *^ conform to ane act and appointment of the session, he had used his endea- * The former church, in which the Kcgalia lay concealed, is thus de9cnb<^d as it stood in the days of the Rev. Andrew Honeyman : It is ^^ a very old fabric, the walls thereof being supported with eight strong butrishcs, and the roof by piUars of wood, so that probably it is the oldest country church presently possessed and in use of any in ScoUand." Macf. MSS. I. p. d2d, Adv. Lib. Jac. v. 4, 21. KINNEPF. 321 •vours for procuring a schoolmaster, and that he had desyred one Mr Robert Gray to come this length, who, being cloathed with sufficient testimonials from the masters of the Marischal College of Aberdeen, offers to officiate as schoolmaster in this parish. The minister also desyred that the heads of families might stay a little and signifie their inclinations with respect to their having this young man settled as schoolmaster, and if they would contri- bute for his encouragement and maintinence ; to which the plura* litie replyed they were satisfied, and should contribute." The teacher haying been thus appointed seems to have laboured for four years without any regular school-house, which it was still left to the session to provide. Accordingly, in May 1709, " the ses- sion, considering the great loss this parish is at for want of a school within their bounds, think fit to advance money out of the box (poor's funds) for building a school near the church, and recom- mended to the several parishioners to contribute for making up the box again ; and this day the minister gave three pounds Scots for that end." The measures thus taken appear to have been suc- cessful ; but Mr Honeyman was still resolved to have the school put on a more permanent and satisfactory footing. In 17 18, a de- creet^ was obtained from the Court of Session, assigning to the schoolmaster the annual salary of 200 merks ; and, in 1720, an allowance of L.1)0 Scots was made by the heritors for the school and schoolmaster's dwelling. Much difficulty seems to have been felt in obtaining payment of these sums, and it was only after long delay that every obstacle was removed.* * One of the heritors deserves to be mentioned, as nianifesting an enlightened re- Srd for the interests of education. Robert Young of Stanlc having on his deathbed It verbally the sum of 100 merks Soots, to be disposed of within the parish for such purpose as his son John Young of Hilton might think fit, ^* it was pactioned and agreed unto by the said John Young that the said ane hundred merks be employed by the minister und elders for supporting a sufficient schoolmaster within the bounds of the said parish of Kinueff.*' This was four months before the first steps were taken by the session. Theeipense of erecting the school-house falling in the first instance on the session funds, various details are given in the record, and some of these may not be devoid of interest Thus we find them paying, in Scots money, For ^^ winning stones to build the school, . L.d To masons, . .20 For timber for the school and schoolmaster's chamber, 17 For broom (thatch), . . I To divottcrs, . . .4 These sums, with the other outlay, seem to have been covered by the allowance of L.90 Scots ( L,7, 10s. Sterling), subsequently made by tlie heritors. With the salary there was great difficulty. The kirk* session complain of an attempt on. the part of several heritors to prevail on the schoolmaster to accept of *^ one hundred merkf of sallary instead of the two due in law (by decreet of the Court of Session) to the schoolmaster of Kinneff.** They crave, therefore! the advice and assistance oT KINCARDINE. X 9 6 18 0" 322 KINCARDINE8HIR0. In the parochial school at presMrt^ along with the moit eon* men branches of education^ Lttin, geography, and occasiooalb Greek are taught The teacher enjoys the maaiiDain nhr;. There are three uneadowed school?, and during the winter seisQi there are upwards of 120 children receiving instructioo in the |»- rish. The amount of school-fees is low, the usual charges being from 28. to 6s. a quarter. Library. — A parochial library was established in 1888; and consists chiefly of religious books. There are at present 138 readers. A juvenile library in connection with the Sabbath school has 60 readers. Savinffs Bank. — For many years, a Savings bank existed in tke parish, and was of great benefit In 1840 a branch of the Stone- haven National Security Savings Bank was established in Berne, intended among others for the parishioners of Kinneff. The fiiods of the latter institution are rapidly increasing. Poor and Parochial Funds. — There are 30 peroaanent paupers on the roll, receiving at an average L.2, 2s. 2d. a-year, and 3 oc- casional paupers receiving about L.1, Is. Its funds in 1840 were, church collections, L.45, 8s. 9fd.; interest of legacies, Lb6, 9s. 6d. ; mortcloth dues and voluntary contributions, L-IO, 5s. Id 1841, two bequests were received by the session, of L.1 00 eacb^ from the late Sir Joseph Straiton,— one for promoting education, and another for encouraging industrious habits among the poor. Inns, — 'J'here are three inns or alehouses, and one holding a license to sell beer. Though more numerous than is necessary, no very perceptible evil effect has been produced by them on the population, who are in general sober. Fuel — Broom, peats, and whins are, to a limited extent, used as fuel, but sea-borne coal from Northumberland is by far more generally employed by all classes. From 4s. to 4s. 6d. per boll is the usual price. Miscellaneous Observations. Since the last Statistical Account was written, agriculture has advanced generally in the parish, and especially on the property of Barras. A very beneficial change also has been effected by the suppression of smuggling. The nature of the coast, veith its bavs and headlands, and its distance from any custom-house, rendered the Ruperior church judicatorres, ** as being a case of great importance, both to us» and many other parishes in the northern bounds, where schools may be kept Tacant on purpose that heritors may not be obliged to pay the salary.** March 15, 171d. BANCHORY-TRRNAN. 323 I it, in former times, only too well known for this illicit traffic; and 1 Mr Stewart had reason to complain of the *^ drunkenness, theft, I and perjury" thus occasioned among his parishioners* /Through the vigilance of the Coast- Guard station, establish^ at Catter- line, smuggling has now been long unknown. Bothies have been introduced on most of the larger farms, — young unmarried ser* vants living together, and often left without efficient moral control. The demoralizing influence of such a system on the agricultural population is becoming painfully apparent, and deserves the seri* ous attention of all who would promote their temporal or religious wel&re. Jvffuet 1842. PARISH OF BANCHORY-TERNAN. PRESBTTBRY OF KIUCARDINE o'NEIL, SYNOD OF ABERDEBbT. THE REV. WILLIAM ANDERSON, A. M. MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Banchory is supposed by some to signify a fair hollow or valley ; but a different meaning is assigned by others. It is probably of the same origin as Bangor (Banchor) in Wales and in Ireland ; and refers to some religious institution early esta- blished in the place. Ternan, or Tarnan, by which this parish is distinguished from one near it of the same name, is derived from St Terne or Ternanus, who, according to Fordun, the Breviary of Aberdeen, and other authorities, flourished about A. D. 440 ; and was regarded, after Ninian, as the apostle and archbishop of the southern Picts. Usher, however, places his era subsequent to a. d. 684, and supposes him to have been among the last of their native prelates. He is said to have been ^ native of the Mearns, and of noble parentage ; to have been brought up among the Culdee fathers, and, having accom- panied Palladius in his mission to the Irish Scots, to have been afterwards ordained and sent by him to extirpate the Pelagian he* rosy, and to establish the Catholic faith among his countrymen in Pictland. In this office he was so eminent for his exertions (somq 324 * kincardinbsuire:. say also for his writings), and so successful in Uegetting a regd for religion, that his name and remains were long after bdds great veneration by the people. Many churches were dedicated to him throughout the country ; and, among others^ the origiu place of worship here. An annual fair and a fountain io this pi- rish still retain his name. In some charters and other writings immediatelv subsequent u the Reformation, the parish is denominated Banchory- Tmiff: but this distinctive is not now in use. It is familiarly knowi \(t the name of Upper Banchory. Boundaries and Extent, — It is bounded on the north by the [A* rishes of Echt and Midmar ; on the east, by Drumoak and Ik- ris ; on the south, by Durris and Strachao ; and on the west, b; Strachan and Kincardine o'Neil. Its figure is irregular; theei- treme breadth, east to west, 9 miles, and the extreme length, ooith to south, about the same. Its area contains 21307 imperial acres; only 5090 of which are on the south side of the Dee, the rest lie on the north, and, with a small portion of Drumoak, fom the only part of the county of Kincardine which passes that river. Topographical Appearances. — The surface, as seen in a general view from any of the neighbouring heights, appears a portion d the valley of the Dee, lying between the long insulated Hill o( Fare on the north (1793 feet), and Kerloack on the south (1890 feet), one of the Grampian range, which stretches from the west to the sea at Aberdeen. Between this latter hill and the river (which is here about 165 feet above the sea-level), a lower rid^e intervenes, whose greatest height may be about 1000 feet. It has a steep northern aspect of a crescent form, and is parted in the mid- dle so as to allow free communication with the nearly parallel ^'al- Icy of Strachan, and to permit its waters collected in the Feuoh to discharge themselves over a rocky ledge into the Dee. Bein^ planted with larch and pine, it presents the appearance of a semi- circular woody screen, through an opening in which the ridge of Kerloack and the singular summit of Cloch-na-ben are seen with considerable effect ; while the river winding along the curvature of its base gives animation to a prospect beautiful and picturesque. That part of the parish which lies on the south of the Dee is divided by the Feugh. The upper and smaller division consists of the sloping flank of Scolty, the western half of the woody cres- cent ridge already mentioned, and embraces a small part of the estate of Blackball, with the properties of Auchattie and Inverv 3 BANCHORY-TERNAN. 325 It is wooded and cultivated in nearly equal proportions. The lower or eastern division contains the estate of Tilwhilly, with part of the lands of Durris. The former is situated on the other half of the fore*mentioned ridge, with its appendages and cultivated slopes. It is bold, rocky, extensively wooded, and abounds in fine views of the neighbourhood. The latter comprehends the remaining low ground between Tilwhilly and Durris on the east, and Kerloack on the south. It consists of several farms among moorlands at the base of this latter hill, together with a marshy and mossy tract recently improved, and a cultivated portion of the sloping upper bank, and of the flat border of the Dee. A small rivu-^ let flows into that river on the east of the Durris property, and another into the Feugh, on the west side of Tilwhilly, both of which con* vey the waters, and form the boundaries of this part of the parish. The large tract on the north side, between the Dee and the hill of Fare, is comparatively low ground, nowhere rising above 500 feet. Its chief features are several ridges or heights, suc- ceeding one another along the course of the river, and forming in some places a high upper bank, gently sloping, or agreeably broken and diversified, while the space between these and the hill, though interrupted in some parts by diverging or parallel ridges, may be described on the whole as a lengthened hollow, extending through the breadth of the parish, from the loch of Drum in Drumoak on the east, to the Bog-loch in Kincardine on the west, having the loch of Leys nearly in the middle, and afibrding beds for several per- manent streamlets, which eflect an imperfect drainage of the dis- trict : the Canny, rising at the west end of the hill of Fare, and flowing south-east into the Dee, with a winding course, in some parts the boundary of the parish : the burns of Cluny and Cor* richie, from the southern face of the same hill, about a mile apart, uniting under the name of the Blackburn, and passing eastward through a flat called the Mirebird into the loch of Drum, from which the burn of Coie proceeds in a contrary direction into the Dee; while, from the loch of Leys, the burn ofBennie falls by a short and nearly direct course into the same river. On the heights and levels which skirt the Dee on this north side, lies first at the western extremity, the property of Trustach, including Woodend, Cairnton, and Invercanny, belonging to the estate of Leys, but detached a short distance from the rest. It is a pine-wooded tract, having two villas in secluded spots on the river, and several farms near the mouth of the Canny, at its lower end. Next along the Dee is the estate of Inchmarlo, a 326 KINCARDINESHIRE. pleasant slope, having a finely situated and neat mansioD-iioiise in the middle, thickly sprinkled with small farms, and embnd by extensive woodlands. A little beyood, succeed the oei Tillage of Banchory, the properties of Arbeadie and Baochon Lodge, and the manse, church, and g^lebe lands ; while still br* ther east, are the ridges of Crathes, Dowalty, and Coie, whiefc, with most of the hollow already described as lying beyond tbesv fore-mentioned heights, and all towards the north-east, to the top of the hill of Fare, constitute the estate of L^ys within the pa- rish ; a surface of great variety, and of very considerable capabi- lity ; one-third of which is cultivated, and one-fourth under wood. The estate of Raemoir occupies about three miles of the side o( the hill of Fare, and a strip of the low land immediately uoder. It presents high upland pastures, with woods clothing the slopeof the hill beneath them, and surrounding the mansion-house, while the remainder consists of well-cultivated and moderately &3d farms, remarkable for their neatness and thriving' condition. 'At the western end of Raemoir, towards the south, lies Glassel, a small but interesting property, containing, besides a dwelling-hoose and garden grounds, several small farms, encircled by woods which cover two-thirds of the whole. A surface possessed of such a variety of outline, and such an extent of wood and water, abounds, as might be expected, in pic- turesque beauty. Upwards of twelve mansion-houses and villas, and a neatly built and prettily situated village, together with nu- merous farm cottages, tend greatly to embellish its scenery, while a large proportion of its trees being evergreen, enables it to retain much of iis interest even at the dullest season of the year. The waters of the Feugh and Dee, with their bridges and back-grounds, as seen especially from Banchory Lodge, opposite to the point of their junction ; the banks of the Dee and the distant Grampians from Hillhead of Tilwhilly ; and Crathes Castle, Blackball, and Inchmarlo from the high road, particularly attract the notice of strangers; but the lover of scenery will here find much besides to gratify him, both in single detached views, and in more com- bined extensive prospects. Some of them will interest him bv their strikingly picturesque features, several by their soft and fault- less loveliness, and a few by a rich, harmonious, and elevated beau- ty, approaching the sublime. But such scenery is confined chiefly to a mile or two on each side the river. Beyond this, many bare and uncultivated spots, and a broad margin of moorlands, contrast BANCUoRY-TERNAN. 327 Strongly, especially id summer, with the green and shady banks, along which the Dee, bright as silver, is seen to glide. Meteorolofftf.^-'The greater part of this parish having a south- ern aspect, and being well protected on the north by the Hill of Fare, and in other directions by lesser ridges, as well as generally sheltered with abundance of wood, possesses a mild, and, on the whole, salubrious climate. The mean height of the barometer for 1832 was 29.521 inches, and the mean temperature by the ther* mometer M.IT. The hottest day was the 30th of June, 79% wind so uth. The coldest the 28th of December, 20^, wind north- west. The temperature of springs and deep wells in the district « Hydrography. — In a few situations, springs are not abundant, and many fail during summer, but in general they are both nume- rous and suflSciently permanent. Good water may almost always be found on digging to the rock. Two or three springs are slight- ly* chalybeate, but their temperature does not appear to differ from the rest, nor is there any thing remarkable in their composi- tion so far as known. Lakes, — The only loch in the parish is that already mentioned, the loch of Leys. In a charter granted 1324, it is denominated the loch of Banchory, and is described as having a ferry, an island, and fishings ; but at present the public road from the church to Raemoir passes through the middle of the hollow in which it lies, and probably in the direction of the ancient ferry. On descend- ing to its basin, the greater extent of its former banks becomes ap- parent. It must evidently have once formed a prominent, — and while the ancient forest surrounded it, an interesting — feature in the landscape. In winter and wet seasons, the water sometimes fills partially the whole bottom on both sides of the road ; but in summer, a small spot at the eastern extremity, scarcely 400 yards square, and surrounded by a broad margin of tall aquatic plants — {Phragmites communis^ Scirpiis lacustrisj Equisetum limosumy &c) — is all that is visible. Its banks are low, and mostly barren. The soil occasionally covered by it is mossy, presenting tufts of bog- myrtle and stunted willows. There still exists a small island near its southern shore, which is said to be *^ artificial, founded on oak piles," with the ruins of " ancient buildings and an oven" upon it, and to have " no traditions or notices which throw light on its history." The artificial nature of this island seems questionable, but the foundations, and even the plan of the buildings may be 328 KINCARDINESHIRE. traced without much diflBcuUy. They occupy nearly the iMs surface, and appear to have been a fortified dwelling of no gies solidity, probably the resort or the residence of the family of Lra^ before their fortalice was built at Cratfaes. It is sometimes eilU the Gow or *< Goo"-house, perhaps from the number of gulls wluek built their nests on the island. The water of the loch is of adail colour. It contains pike, and is frequented occasionally by grai numbers of sea-fowl, (some of which^still breeil there,) by sewn! varieties of wild duck, snipe, &c, and in some winters by the viU swan. It is not fed by any constant stream, and appears to demt its origin solely from the moisture which percolates the soil on the neighbouring heights, and which, finding- here its lowest level, col- lects and makes its appearance. Its decrease is partly owing tu the clearing and cultivation of some of the surrounding land, and partly to an attempt made, about ninety years ago, to drain it by deepening its communication with the Dee. Rivers, — The only streams requiring more particular notice are the Dee and the Feugh. The former enters the parish at Wood- end, from west-north-west, and, after making a rather short but angular detour along the projecting hill of Trustach on its left bank, it takes a larger but similar reach, conformable in the ge- neral direction to the semicircular ridge already mentioned on its right, and extending to nearly the eastern boundary of the parish. About the middle of this course it is joined by the Feugh firom the south-west, and receives, as formerly noticed, several rivulets on its northern and southern sides. Its channel is very generally overspread with large pebbles and stones ; and in some places, the water flows on a rough bed of naked rock, and forms considerable rapids. A little way below the entrance of the Feugh two small islands divide its stream. The larger is a low flat, sometimes nearly covered by high floods, and about eight or nine acres in extent, two- thirds of which are covered with furze and coarse grass, and the rest is a beach of pebbles, of which, together with sand, nearly the whole is composed. The other islet immediatelv succeeds, and is not above one-eighth of the size of the former. It is rather more elevated above the stream, consists chiefly of sand, is covered with trees, apparently the product of casual seeds and has an agreeable appearance. Both these islands seem to owe their origin chiefly to the substances brought down in the rapid and frequently swollen and powerful stream of the Feugh. They are in fact in a great measure its delta, which the superior force BANCHORY-TERNAN. 329 of the Dee removes a little way beyond its mouth, and has accu* mulated according to the gravity of the materials in the place where the islands now appear. The larger has increased within the memory of several persons alive, and the consequence former- ly was, that the stream, being thrown with greater force against the northern bank, so corroded it year after year as to destroy the site of several houses, and to approach the wall of the churchyard; But this work of destruction was delayed in 1811, by the forma* tion of a stone embankment, which wards off the force of the stream. Above the junction of the Feugh, where the Dee is crossed by a bridge, its medium breadth, depth, and velocity with- in the parish may be considered as nearly represented. They are found in an average state of the flood to be nearly as follows : — Breadth, 175 feet; depth in the middle of the stream, 6 feet 9 inches; velocity, 1.8 foot per second. The average depth in win* ter above that in summer is 8 inches. During the latter season the volume of water not unfrequently decreases more than one- half. Strong winds from the south and west, by raising waves on the surface of several lakes from which the river is fed in the up- per parts of its course, are found to affect the level of its waters here, often to the extent of one or two feet. During the great flood of August 1829, it rose 20 feet 7 inches above its ordinary height. The Feugh flows for about a mile within the parish, and at first presents nothing remarkable in its appearance, besides the pools and shallows, with the wide margin of sand and gravel, which characterize most mountain streams ; but when it enters the open* ing in the secondary ridge of hills that skirts the south side of the Dee, it runs between bold precipitous wooded banks, and dashes from pool to pool over naked opposing rocks, until within a few hundred yards of the river it falls in a divided stream down a ledge from fifteen to twenty feet high, and then reuniting in a deep basin below, finds its way to the Dee amidst similar rocks, and an accumulation of sand. The great height at which its sources lie in the neighbouring Grampians, and the comparative shortness of its course, subject its volume to so sudden and fre- quent changes, that an average estimate of its waters is not easily ascertained. Above the fall it is seventy feet broad, and one of the pools is about twenty-four feet deep ; but two feet may be re- garded as its general depth. Its velocity is conjectured to be more than double that of the Dee. A bridge of two principal 330 KINCABDIN£SH1BE. arches is thrown over its stream, just below the fall ; and few spots in the parish exhibit a more striking view than the alpine scenery of this place, ^especially when the Feugh, swollen by rain, Gils the whole channel, and with a thundering noise, and foaming waters, sweeps through the arches into the whirlpool below. Geology^ 4*c. — The hills of Fare and Kerloack consist of nearly the same variety of red compact granite. Sulphate of barytes occurs in a vein traversing the granite, not far from Corrichie. In approaching towards the Dee, on each side, the granite agmin makes its appearance on the intermediate heights ; but it is of a lighter colour, and contains a bed or vein of limestone, which is seea first on the north side of the river at Glassel ; and, after forming the heights of Inchmarlo and Arbeadie, may be traced south-eastward for several miles. It seems to run in a direction parallel to the vein of red porphyry at the bridge of Potarch. It is seen cros- sing the Dee in several places, and where it passes the Feugb, it appears to be about 500 yards broad. At its junction with the granite in this latter place, the appearance of both rocks is consi- derably changed. They become strati6ed, and put on a structure like gneiss or mica-slate, which rocks are not themselves distinctly observed in the district, though numerous fragments of them abound on all parts of the surface. The limestone, though in some parts coarse and impure, is generally compact, and highly crystallized. It contains tremolite, and is evidently primitive. At the quarries of Tilwhilly, it is manufactured for the purposes of agriculture. A ton of the stone yields six bolls of lime, which, owing chiefly to the great expense of fuel, costs 2s. dd. per boll ; while English shells, considered by the farmer of nearly double efficiency, can be had for 2s. 6d. ; they, therefore, are generally preferred. There exists, also, on Tilwhilly, a limestone gravel, which is merely the decomposed surface, or withered portions of the above rock. It was formerly used in its native state as a top-dressing, but is now little heard of. The alluvium is, for the most part, a light-coloured scanty clav, mixed, especially towards the river, with a large proportion of sand and gravel, and containing rolled pebbles and large boulders. In the neighbourhood of the Dee, but far above its present level, and in some parts of the hollow along the base of the hill of Fare, it has accumulated to a considerable depth; but the average thickness of the soil does not exceed sixteen inches. The peb- bles, in various parts, are as smooth as those of the sea beach, BANCHORY-TERNAN. 33 1 and, together with the sand, are sometimes, though rarely, depo- sited in layers. Upon the surface, generally a Tast number of stones and boulders occur in all positions, and are especially re- markable on breaking up and trenching new soil. They then often appear covering the ground, as closely as if artificially packed upon it, and are of all sizes, from a few pounds to several tons. A lai^e proportion of them, when examined, are found to consist of fragments of sienite, porphyry, and gneiss, which are here otherwise unknown ; and of varieties of granite very different from the subjacent rocks. They have their angles generally worn, as if by attrition. It seems difficult to account for these and some other alluvial appearances of the district, as well as for the names given to some of the high grounds, (/ncA-marlo, and BrathtW^, or Brathens), without supposing that water had for a time filled the greater part of the valley, and afterwards retired into the bed of the present river. The soil having been formed chiefly by the decomposition of granite rocks, and no loamy deposits having been made by the streams of the district, is almost everywhere light, and not natu- rally fertile. In most places it is not sufficiently retentive of mois- ture ; but in some a ferruginous indurated subsoil prevents both the deflux of water, and the roots of plants and trees from findinn- sufficient nourishniient and depth. In some of the low grounds a spongy moss, mixed with gravel, and bearing a coarse grass, pre- sents a surface of little value, and difficult to improve, while an inadequate drainage renders others swampy for a great part of the year, or subjects them to frequent injuries from floods. No plants, however, decidedly indicative of a very poor or very inferior soil are observed to prevail. The whin and broom grow freely and in nearly equal proportions on the uncultivated tracts ; and the fern, the wild-rose, the holly, and the birch are among the most promi- nent indigenous productions. The remains of oak, pine, and ha- zel, which are dug up in great abundance in most of the hollows, attest, along with traditional history, that the surface was formerly covered very extensively with natural wood ; and the facility with which these and other trees grow, together with the thriving con- dition of the present extensive plantations, show that the soil is remarkably adapted for rearing various kinds of valuable timber. Even for purposes strictly agricultural its capabilities are conside- rable, and hold out the prospect, that, when its resources shall be 332 KINCARDINESHIRE. more completely developed, the surface will not be more pleasant to the eye than profitable to the farmer. Botoity.— This parish contains several of the rarer British plants, and many which, either from their local distribution or other circumstances, are deserving of notice. The banks of the river are especially rich in vegetable productions, — the number of which is increased by the stream bringing down alpine plants and seeds from their natural situation, and establishing them upon its sides. The Belds, woods, moors, and hills abound in such plants as generally characterize similar localities. The loch of Leys also contains several species of considerable interest. There cannot be a doubt that farther research would add several new species to the Flora of the parish, although it has been repeatedly subjected to botanical investigation. The first of the following lists contains those plants which are rare or very local in Britain ; the second those which are otherwise interesting : — Calamintba Acinos Melampyrum sylvaticum Orchis Mono Galium erectum Nuphar pumila Equisetum Mackaii. Linnapa borealis The last named plant was first found in the parish in 1841, and has not, it is believed, been discovered in any other part of Scotland. Alchemilla alpina Fumaria capreolata Silene maritiraa Bidens cernua Lepidiura Smitbii Solanum Dulcamara Brachypodiura sylvaticum Listera cordata Spergula subulata Calamintba Clinopodium Lobelia Dortmanna Teesdalia nudicaulis Carduus heterophyllus Lycopus Europsus Trientalis Europcea Carex Isevigata Meum athamanticum Trullius Europsus ^— pauciflora Oxyria renifurmis Viburnum Opulus —— — > stricta Parnassia palustris Botrychium Lunaria Cetitaurca Scabiosa Pbragmites communis Equisetum hyeroa]e Cichorium Intybus Potamogeton beteropbyllus — ^ variegatum Corydalis claviculata Primula veris Lycopodium alpinuxn Ecbium vulgare Pyrola media «_— _- Selago Eleocbaris multicaulis minor selaginoides Erysimum Alliaria secunda Polypodium Dryopteris Festuca elatior Saxifraga aizoides — Pbegopteris. _ gigantea Scirpus lacustris — vivipara -_^_ sylvaticus The existing plantations are very extensive, being equal to more than five-sixths of the arable, and to more than one-fourth of the whole surface They consist chiefly of pine and larch, with patches of birch, and belts of oak, beech, ash, and some ornamental trees. The greater part was planted during the last seventy years, and only about one third of the whole is nearly ready for the market. The soil, especially on the heights near the river, is generally well adapted for oak and other hard woods. Larch is found, however, to give way after twenty or thirty years on certain dry and thin soils, and to bet come diseased in the heart. Pines grow most profitably in the hoi- fiANCHORY-TERNAN. 833 lows and towards the base of the hills, while, at some intermediate places, birch is found readily to thrive. More attention is now given than formerly to adapt the trees to the locality in which they are planted, and, owing to the decreasing value of fir timber, and the quantity in this district about to be brought into the mar- ket at once, the proportion of hard-wood is greatly on the increase. More than 290,000 larches and 66,000 oaks have been planted on the estate of Leys alone, within the last three years. Among the most remarkable trees are numerous yews, all of natural growth, springing from the top of the rocks at Crathes. Some of them are 5^ feet girth at the base. Among several gi- gantic specimens of the common holly, one occurs on the side of the public road leading to Aberdeen, about a mile from the church, which springs from the sides and crevices of a rock, and has upwards of twenty stems proceeding apparently from the same root. It is 20 feet high, and shades an area of more than 36 feet square. It is supposed to be at least 200 years old. In the grounds of Crathes castle, there is also a magnificent beech, which was planted in 1706, and is 25 feet in girth, about 60 feet high, and contains 320 cubic feet of timber* Zoology. — Twenty-four species of quadrupeds, and 111 of birds, are found either permanently or occasionally in this district. The following lists, it is believed, are nearly complete. Mammalia. Martet foina Mus messorius? Plecotus auritus Lutra vulgaris Anrioola atnphibius Vespertilio murinus Vulpes vulgaris — ^ — agrestis Sorez araneus Felis catus Lepus timidus Talpa Europsea Mus rattus _ variabilis Meles taxus decumanus _ cuniculus Mustella putorius .— musculus Cervus elaphus erminea — sylvaticus — ■ capreolus vulgaris The roe is more common here than in most other districts of the country, but the red-deer is only occasionally seen in the woods. The Cervus damoj or fallow-deer, is now found wild in the neigh- bourhood of Blackball ; but it is understood to have been intro- duced by a late proprietor. Rabbits are said to have been almost unknown till a few from a distance were placed on the islands of the Dee, about thirty years ago. They passed over the ice in winter, and have now become everywhere so numerous as to render their destruction necessary. Avzs. Falco Haliseetus Falco ajrugiuosus Falco albicilla — ~ Buteo mitrus 334 KINCABDINB8HIRB. Frtngflla montane Tctnoltth «— peregnniu — — ^aneus 'Hnnuncului — -~ sub-buteo — — ^Mlon Stris otus flammeui stridula Corvus Coraz ■ Corone ■ frugilegus »— Monedula Pica Stumiis vulgaris Turdus torquatiu — ^ Mcrula Alauda C«rdueln Spinua pTBtmaaim MoUusilla alba Boanila — Bmwm, SyWia Rubeeula atrioapilla - R^gulus — TVoglodytes dnerea Trochilus — — ^— viacivonis »— - pilaris ■■ xnusicus ■ iliacus Cuculus canorus Picus viridis — - migor Sitta Europaea Upupa cpops Certhia familiaris Loxia curvirostra — i— cbloris pyrrhula Rmberisa Milaria Citrinella — ^ Schoeniculus nivalis Fringilla domcstica Rutacilla phflenicurua Accentor naodularis Sazicola (Enanthe -^ Rubetra — — — ^— Rubioola Parus major - ctfruleus ater caudulua palustris Hirundo rustica Cinchai Aleedoii Ardia naajot ^— -ttdhm Ibis fiJdiicDBi Seolopax arqnis Rnaic^ GalliB^ Galliuli ■ — caUida Tringa faypoleuca Fuliea chlOTopa atra Podicepa auritai Larus canus ridibnndoi npana • urbica apus Anas cygDQsfeni Caprimulgus Europcus Coiumba livia ■ palumbas Boacbas — — Tadoma - peodope — — Clangula Eagles visit Kerloack only in early spring, when the lambs be- gin to appear. They are occasionally taken by the ^mekeepen in traps, and when their legs are bound, they make no resistance with their beak, but are carried like a turkey under the arm. The ptarmigan was formerly seen on the hill of Fare, but has long since disappeared. The oyster* qatcher breeds in the islands of the Dee, where it arrives with the greatest regriilarity about the first week of March, and leaves about the end of June. In very drv seasons, they may be observed returning to their nests with dew- worms at midnight, and their cry is heard often at all hours. A beautiful specimen of the glossy ibis, or Brazilian curlew was shot at the loch of Leys, September 1842, The fishes of the Dee and its tributary streams present in this district no remarkable variety. They are the Gasterosteus pungU tivs, the Anguilla vulgaris^ the Platfssa Jlesus^ the £sox iucius. the Salmo trutta^ and the S.fario, About twenty years ago, the salmon was so common that a ^ood angler could generally catch six to ten a day, but the utmost and BANCHORT-TERNAN. 335 rare limit of bis success is now two, or at most three. The salmon fry generally go down the river to the sea in April or May, and are supposed to return grilse in June. Muscles (Mytilus cygneus?) are found in the Canny, which was formerly celebrated for its pearls. Of reptiles, besides the common toad, and the common and edi- ble frog, there are the Triton aquaticusy and the T. palustris, — the water and the warty eft, the Lacerta agilis — the nimble lizard, the Anguis fragilis or blind-worm, and the Vipera communis^ or common adder. The bite of this species has here been found poisonous. The leg of a woman, bitten lately by it, became great- ly swollen on the third day up to the top of the thigh, with a con« siderable discoloration (ecchymosis) in the ham. Specimens of a serpent upwards of four feet long have several times been found ; but whether it be the adder at an advanced stage of its growth, or whether it be a distinct species, is unknown. Nothing in the entomology of the parish, as hitherto observed, seems to require particular notice. Insects are numerous, and in considerable variety, especially moths. II. — Civil History. At Cairnton, on the east end of the hill and ancient wood of Trustach, near a steep bank of the Dee, there is a slightly hollow place, overgrown with birch, about 150 yards square, which, on its north and only open side, has two ramparts of earth, each 300 yards long, from 10 to 15 yards high, and 16 broad. They converge from the bank on each side, and complete two sides of a square, the rest of which is formed by the nature of the ground. They do not, however, meet, but leave an entrance at the angle about 20 yards wide. A large body of men might lie within them without being easily observed. The position is moderately elevated, and commands a pass between the heights of Inchmarlo and the Dee, through which the present road lies. It overlooks almost every approach, and has the river immediately behind, and the Canny at a little distance in the haugh below. No traditions respecting it exist, and, as the spot is rather sequestered, it is very little known. But it has evidently been a strong and well-selected en- campment Its massive structure and general appearance, com- pared with their undoubted remains in other parts of the country, incline some to think that it owes its origin to the Romans. The name of the place would indicate, perhaps, the site of a battle, but there are no cairns or tumuli at present to be seen. On the 886 KINCARDINE8H1BE. moorlands, at the bottom and sides of the hills, north and south, are many stone cairns, and others of a similar kind are said to htfe formerly existed in various central parts of the parish. One of these, lately opened, contained a small coflBn about a yard long, formed of rude stones, with a little dust within. Another had various booes of a human skeleton without any coffin. In the neighbourhood of those near Kerloack, on the farms of Eslie and Garrol, are three stone circles, the largest about 25 yards diameter, and the others about 15. In each, the remains of an inner circle are visible, withio which is a small cairn, and in all, the outer circles are tolerablv complete, containing what is called the altar stone, placed due south, and of nearly the same dimensions in each, 8 feet long, and 4 high. The whole are composed of micaceous schist, with some limestone and granite, the common stones of the place. In the moors around, besides many small cairns, and some traces of for- mer cultivation, there is a place called Knocking or Rockiog- stone ; and a small peat bog, in which, twenty years ago, a circu- lar copper vessel, apparently very ancient, and of very rude work* manship, was found. ^* It had a rim at the mouth, which was turned outward, and perforated with three holes. It had also the appearance of having had a handle attached to it." Though few places can be more bare and sterile than this situation is at pre- sent, all the hollows contain, imbedded in peat moss overlvinreterne, 12 Junii 1491. In pns of ane Rycht no- KINCARDINE. Y 308 KINCARDINESHIRE. bille and my^^ lorde, Willtn. Erell Marcheil and Lorde Ketbt, and ane Ry^ honorabil man, Alexander Irwyn of y« Drum, it w appointit and accordit betuix Schir Alex''. Symson^ vicare of Ban- quhoriteme^ and Johne Stalkar, man and senrand to y^ said Lord, Erie Marschele, and Alex^ Irwyn. That no^vy^ standing y said Jhone Stalkari's clame of intress and possession in and to y^ bell of Sanct ternen, callit y* , be the reson of heritage, per- tening, and • » to him be his vife, the said John has Defer- y^less, for him and his vifie, be consent of her, renuncit and freW gewyn over all ry* and clame of entress yat he or his vifTe haid, has, or may hawe in tyme cuming, to y^ said Schir Alex', and bis successouris, vicaris of Banqoriterne. And eftyr y^ deliverans and rasat of y* said bell, the said Schir Alex'., considering y« expen- sis and laboris sustenit be y^ said Jhone, and y« povertie of hym," grants him the said bell, with the ^' profiteis and pertinentis of ye samyn, for y* soume of foiirty schillingis Scottis monie," and makes the croft^ " callit y® deray croft," (supposed to be a part of the present glebe,) " fre to be till hyme for all y*' dais of his lyff." To this agreement " Alex'. Burnett of y« I^ys, and Alex'. Frysser of y^ Durris," are witnesses. — (Regist. Capell. eccl. Ca- thed. Aberdon. f. 103.) hi 15'28, the present Caslle of Crathes was built by a son of the above Alexander Burnett; and, in 1376, the castle of Til- whilly, by John Douglas, great-grandson of David, the first lain). The old manse, it is believed, was erected about the same, or «i somewhat earlier period, for the use of the *' vicaris of Banqu- horiterne." It still shows traces of the insecurity of the times, and of the comparative splendour which the church then main- tained. In 1562, was fought a battle between Queen Mary's forces, under the Earl of Moray, and the Earl of Huntly, in the ** Howe of Corrichie," a glen in the hill of Fare. The place, at first view, seems but a small opening, giving vent to a torrent on the southern side of the hill ; but turning rather abruptly to the left, it presents a spacious hollow about two miles in length, stretching into the very centre of the hill, with steep sides and a marshy bottom. *' Vpoun the xxviij of October," says the " Diurnal of Occur- rents," (p. 73. Ed. 1833), '* my lord of Huntlie was lyand with ane army of his folkis at Lochskene, to the nomber of viijc men, to have cumin aganies my lord of Murray and vtheris quha was with the Queni's grace," (on her return from Inverness), "and coun- BANCHORY-TERNAN. 333 salit hir hienes to put the said earle to the home. The gentilmen of the cuntrey past the samyn day furth of Abirdene in thair best array : and efter thaj haid chaisit the erle Huntlie and his cum- pany sex myles fra Lochskene, to ane place callit Correchie^ knd skarmischand with him," (the fire of the arquebusses drove him to the low marshy level of the ^ Howe/ and nearly the half of his followers left him in the night previous to the battle. Most of the country people, however, favoured him ; and many in the ranks of his enemies had been corrupted by his means) : *' thaj send word to my lord of Murray to come with the Louthiane men quha wer thair at that tyme ; quha come, and at their cuming, the wangaird maid thame the battell ; bot incontinent thairefter, thai fled (back) vpoun the gentilmen of Louthiane, and, as sum sayis, purposing to have causit thame to flie and to be ourrun, to the effect the erle of Huntlie mycht have obtinit the victorie ; bot the said gentilmen of Louthiane stuid fermlie still, and the said erllis cumpany, cumand vpoun the said gentilmene, was put vpon thair bakkis with speiris, and thairefter fled, quhair followit greit slauchter." On Huntly's side, 120 were slain, and nearly as many taken prisoners. Among the latter was the Earl, *^ who being aged and corpulent, and by reason of the throng which pressed him, expired in the hands of his takers." ^^ He was tane by Andro Reidpath, one of our soverane ladie's gaird.'* The Queen herself is reported to have been present, and to have beheld the battle from a rocky seat overlooking the whole field, still called Queen Mary's Chair. In the bottom of the glen, there are several heaps, which seem to mark an encampment, and various cairns, which are easily distinguished from others beside them of a more ancient date. But on the north side of the estate of Glassel, where it is said the chief carnage took place, are several larger tumuli,- which are supposed to be the graves of the Gordons over- taken in their flight. An old ballad, sometimes heard among the peasantry of the district, mentions, among others present on the Queen's side, the Burnetts of Leys, the Irvines of Drum, and the Frasers of Durris. It is certain that John Douglas of Til- whilly obtained a pardon, under the Great Seal, for himself and his followers, for assisting Huntly in the battle. He was much befriended by Morton while Regent, who, on one occasion, is said to have lived incognito at bis house of Tilwhilly, and passed under the name of " James the Grieve." In 1 557, John, Commendator of Arbroath, and the whole con- 340 KINCARDINESHIRE. vent, signed a charter of resignation of the lands of Pittenkerrie, Brathens, Invery, and the kirk lands of Banchory, in farour of Alexander Burnett and his heirs-male, &c. ; which lands were incorporated into the barony of Leys, by a charter of James VL 1595, containing a navodamus of the whole. In this conditioD, that estate, with the exception of the parts known under the names of Raemoir, Glassd, and Invery, remains with the descendants of its original proprietors. All the other properties in the parish have changed hands. The fourth son of the said Alexander Bur- nett was Gilbert, educated at the University of Aberdeen, and af- terwards a Professor of Philosophy, first at Basle, and then at Montauban. He was held in such esteem, that a national synod of the Protestants in France appointed his philosophical writings to be published at the expense of their clergy ; but, he dying be- fore his manuscripts were arranged, his book of Ethics only was printed. In 1638, Sir Thomas Burnett of I^ys, who had been created a Baronet by Charles I., and who was the eldest brother of James Burnett of Craigmyle, from whom the Burnetts of Monboddo are descended, and of Lord Crimond, the £tther of Bishop Burnett of Salisbury, became one of the most conspicuous in the north against the measures of the Court ; and, with the lairds of Dun, Morphey, and Carnegie, proceeded through various districts as commissioner, and accompanied the Marquis of Montrose to Aber- deen, where they subscribed the Covenant with certain limitations, of which Dr William Guild, minister there, and Mr Robert Reid, minister of this parish, were the ostensible authors. He lived, however, on friendly terms with the heads of the opposite party, and finding, at length, that both sides were unreasonably deter- mined on extremities, he retired from public life, and remained unmolested by either. He was a patron of learning, and mortified to the College of Old Aberdeen, " four crofts for three bursars of philosophy," the annual revenue of which has increased to L.318, 6s. 7d. He, besides, erected and endowed, conjunctly with Dr Alexander Reid, two schools in the village of Banchory, " a gram- mar-school for boys, and a sewing-school for girls." He also erected and endowed, with 6300 merks, an hospital or alms-house for six poor men or women, commuted afterwards into an annual allowance in money to the poor on the barony of Leys. Some of his manuscript papers and letters indicate a cultivated intellect, and a generous sympathy with the religion, liberty, and learning^ BANCHORY-TERNAN. 341 of his country. His grandson, Thomas, the third Baronet, sat for Kincardineshire in the Scottish Parliament of 1703^ About 1647, Robert Douglas, brother of Sir Archibald Dou- glas, and son-in-law to Lord Audley, succeeded to the family es- tate of Tilwhilly, and, having accepted the honour of knighthood and a high command from the Royalists, had his house here garri- soned by the Covenanters, and was himself obliged ultimately te retire to the continent with the ruin of all his property. His only daughter was married in 1665 to George Crichton of -Cluny, who erected, in J 666, Cluny Castle, now a small picturesque ruin on the estate of Raemoir, and whose name soon afier ceases to be known in the parish. His grandson Gilbert, a companion of the Duke of Wharton's, left no issue, and the family estate passed to his brother, James Douglas of Inchmarlo, who, in 1650, had ac- quired that property from the Douglases of Glenbervie, into whose hands it had fallen after the Reformation. The youngest sou of this James Douglas was Archibald, a clergyman, who succeeded Bishop Burnet in the living of Saltoun, and who was the grand- father of Bishop Douglas of Salisbury. On the Uth of September 1644, Montrose having crossed the Dee by the ford at Mills of Drum, and, having summoned the laird of Leys to surrender his house, which he immediately did, '^ supped with him the same night, together with his guard." Next day he marched down to Aberdeen, and defeated the Covenan- ters. Part of his soldiers' entrenchment is still visible in the cas- tle grounds. The remains of his encampment on a subsequent occasion, probably when he ravaged the Barony of Echt in pas- sing this way to Strathbogie, are to be seen not far from the entrance of the Howe of Corrichie, and are known by the name of ^^ Montrose's dike." His reply to a poor widow, who, after his defeat in 1645, when he again visited the neighbourhood, re- proached him with his former cruelty, is still repeated as a sort of proverbial saying by some old people here. The register of the Barony Court of Leys between 1621 and 1709 is in existence, and contains much curious information of lo- cal interest. The majority of the suits refer to pecuniary trans- actions, but many are petty offences, and some publip and private arrangements, such as, 1. ^^ deforcing officiaris ;" ^^ stricking and dinging;" ^^ hurting, wounding, and bluid-shedding ;^' ^^ comitting ane ryatt ;" " making ane strugle f " flytting and bakbyting ;" ^^ being ane unlawfu' and infamous man ;" ^' appealing from the 942 KINCARDINESHIRE. laird's court ;" " pick-locking aoe house ;** ** steiling of fruit -p *^ braking doun dykis of parkis and woodis ;" *^ cutiog grass io plantations and green wood," &c. 2. *< Absence from the wapin- schaw ;" ^^ discerning the haill tennentis in the barrony to be at the place appointit for haddin out the hielandmeD :**' '* obligiog the haill tennentis to go to the service of the camp for the defens of the country." (1640). 3. ^* Ordaining teoneotis to wark ihaff irne wark with James Smith, and to pay him tbair smyddy bow zeirly." <^ Discerning brewsteris to furnisch the laird's Stewart with barm for makkin and bakin sufficient bread," &c* The punishments are, — ^^ the price of ane quart of ale ; 20sIl; 40 pundis Scotis ; loss of moweables ; escheiting of hail guidis to the laird ; sitting 24 howris in the stokkis ; banischment from the laird's landis, and pulling down the hous of the offender/' &c. The court sat about four times a year, and the average number of cases was 27. Eminent Men. — The first minister of this parish after the Re- formation was Mr James Reid (cir. 1 580), a younger son of Mr Reid of Pitfoddels, a gentleman of very ancient family in the county of Aberdeen. He was succeeded by his son Robert ( L620) ; subse- quently by Alexander Cant, a relation of the celebrated Andrew ; and afterwards by his great-grandson Mr Robert Reid (1662). " James Reid," says Gordon of Rothiemay, " was a man of a nota- ble head- piece for witte, and the most part of his children were men of extraordinar qualifications.''' His son, Thomas, studied under Lipsius, and, after travelling over Europe, he became Greek and Latin secretary to James I., and lived in habits of intimacy with some of the most distinguished characters of that period. He col- lected in a volume and published the theses which he had defend- ed at foreign universities, (De objecto Metaphysicse, London, 1616), and some of his Latin poems were inserted in the UeiicicB Poet, Scot. Barclay gives his paraphrase of the 104th Psalm a high place among the efforts which were made by the eminent scholars of the time to clothe that beautiful hymn in a Latin dress; •* et propter elegantiam carminis, et propter expressionem prophe- tae mentis prse caeteris, et propter antiquitatis et doctrinae non ob- scura argumenta." Dempster also praises him as " a man of great eminence." He bequeathed to the Marischal College of Aber- deen a collection of books and MSS., with a fund for establishing a salary to a librarian. His brother, Dr Alexander Reid, was BANCHORY-TLRNAN. 3^^ Physician to Charles I., and published several works on anatomy and surgery, (1634-16^9.) << Inter medicos Londinenses," says Professor Smith, ^^ sui temporis primus habitus splendide vixit, immensas congessit opes, et stupenda reliquit pietatis suae monu- mental' Besides other valuable donations during his lifetime, he bequeathed to the College of Old Aberdeen *^ L.200 Sterling, the yearly profit of L. 100 to come to the help of the gramarier's stipend, and the other for the help of the regents'. He left also his whole medicine books for the College library," (Alb. CoUeg. Abdn.) He mortified for the use of a grammar school in Ban- chory 4000 merks, and 1800 for the maintenance of a woman's school. He also left the annual rent of L.lOO to the poor, and of the same sum to the minister of the parish. A third son, John, translated into English Buchanan's History of Scotland. It was never published, but exists in manuscript in the University of Glasgow. In a preface to the first volume of a manuscript Calder- wood, this John is said to have been ^^ servitur and writer to Mas- ter Greorge Buchanan." Besides other eminent individuals de- scended from this family, was the distinguished Dr Thomas Reid, Professor of Moral Philosophy in Glasgow. His father, minister of Strachan, was a son of the above Mr Robert Reid, minister of this parish in 1662. The burial-place of the family is in this churchyard, where several of them lie interred ; and a monument erected over them is kept in repair by the kirk-session, in terms of the bequest of one of them to the poor. The session registers begin the lOth of May 1670, those pre- vious to that date having been destroyed, ^^ first, in the burning of the schoole, 1664, and lately by the burning of the schoolmaster's chamber." There is a blank between October 1677 and No- vember 1682. A separate register for baptisms and marriages commences 1682. Nothing in these records requires particular notice. There appears to have been, since the Reformation to 1830, eight incumbents in the parish, giving an average for each incumbency of 31.25 years. It is a curious circumstance, that two ancient families, whose residences are in view of each other on opposite sides of the Dee, (Crathes Castle and Tilwhilly,) should each have given a prelate (Bishop Burnett and Bishop Douglas) to the same see (Salisbury) in the English church ; both men eminent in their way as divines and as authors. It is also singular, that two of the ablest defen- ces of Christianity against the scepticism of Hume should have 344 KINCARDINESHIRE. " emanated from individuals connected with this parish (Dr Camp- bell's Essay on Miracles, and Bishop Douglas's Criterion.) Dr Gilbert Burnett, Bishop of Salisbury, was the eldest sod of Robert Burnett of Crimond, appointed one of the Lords of Ses- sion at the Restoration. He was born at Eklinburgh, 18th Sep- tember 1643, but was educated in the country under his (ather, until his tenth year, when he entered the college at Aberdeeo. After the usual courses he took his degree, before he was fourteeo years of age, along with James Gregory, the celebrated in?eDtor of the reflecting telescope, (1657.) He then commenced the study of civil and feudal law ; but, relinquishing it after a yeaf) devoted himself wholly to divinity, with such diligence and suc- cess, that, before he was eighteen, he was licensed as a probationer or preacher of the Gospel, and was offered by bis cousin-german, Sir Alexander Burnett, the living of this parish. He refused, however, to accept it on account of his youth, and, wisely bent on improving himself, spent several years in the study of the best authors on divinity, in intercourse with some of the greatest and most learned men of the age, and in foreign travel, before he at length accepted from Sir Robert Fletcher, his father's friend, the living of Saltoun, in the county of Haddington. There he conti- nued for five years, and discharged the functions of a parochial minister in an exemplary manner. An account of his subsequent eventful and important career, both in this country, and in Eng- land, must be sought in the several biographies written of him. The ** History of his own Time," published after his death, 1724, has an account of his life by his youngest son, who was one of the Judges of the Court of Common Pleas. He published in his life- time 68 single sermons, 13 treatises or tracts in divinity, 17 on the Papist controversy, 26 political and miscellaneous, and 24 historical and biographical. He kept up occasional intercourse with his relations in this place till his death ; but only one or two unimportant letters of his have been preserved. He sent his por- trait, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller, to be kept in Crathes Castle, where it still remains; and he appointed the Baronets of Leys patrons of the bursaries which he left to the Marischal Col- lege of Aberdeen. The original sum was 1000 merks; but, in 1835, the stock amounted to L.13895 1 2s. 8d., nearly the whole interest of which is paid to four bursars in arts, and two in divinity. John Douglas, D. D., also Bishop of Salisbury, was born at Pittenweem, Fifeshire, 1721. His father, a respectable merchant. BANCUORT-TERNAN. 34^ was, as formerly iDtimated, the son of the youngest brother of John Douglas, Esq. of Tilwhilly. He commenced his education at Dunbar, but was soon removed to Oxford, where he was first entered as a commoner, and afterwards elected an exhibitioner on Bishop Werner's foundation in Baliol College. Becoming a curate in 1747, he was recommended by a friend to the Earl of Bath as a travelling tutor to his son ; and the history of his sub^ sequent life is little else than a chronicle of the honours and pre^ ferments which were heaped upon him, chiefly through the pa- tronage of that family. He received several livings in the churchy and became, succesfively. Canon of Windsor and of St Paul's^ President of Zion College, a Trustee of the British Museum, Bishop of Carlisle, and was ultimately removed to the See of Sa- lisbury. He was a favourite in the Royal Palace, and an esteemed member of Dr Johnson's Club. Nothing is perhaps more re- markable in his long career, than his uniform good fortune. He died. May 1807, in the eighty-sixth year of his age. Before his preferment in England, he kept up intercourse with his relations at Tilwhilly, and visited them occasionally. His first literary work was the Vindication of Milton from the Charges of Lauder, 1750. The Criterion of Miracles was published four years afterwards. Besides these, he wrote two controversial treatises in theology, four in history, eight political pamphlets, five pre- faces, or introductions with notes, &c. to books, two sermons, and one volume of travels, left in manuscript. His select works, con- sisting chiefly of the " Vindication," " Criterion," and an Account of his Continental Tour, were printed in 1 volume, 4to, with a life by his son. Dr George Campbell, born 25th December 1719, was the son of the Rev. Colin Campbell, one of the ministers of Aberdeen* His father was a descendant of Campbell of Moy, who was a cadet of the family of Argyll ; but of this parent he was deprived at nine years of age, and had the energy of his character early stimu- lated by difficulties into exertion and self-reliance. He studied at Marischal College, under the celebrated Blackwell ; and hav- ing originally intended to follow the profession of the law, he sub- sequently became an apprentice to a Writer to the Signet in Edinburgh. Before, however, the term of his apprenticeship ex-* pired, he renounced that intention, and devoted himself to divinity* He began his theological studies in Edinburgh, and finished them in Aberdeen^ where he was licensed as a preacher, 11th June 846 KINCARDINESHIRE. 1746. After being two years a probationer, the reputation of his learning and ability attracted the notice of Sir Thomas Burnett of Leys, who, though personally unacquainted with him, and un- solicited by any of Mr Campbell's friends, generously presented him with the living of Banchory. The date of his settlement is 25th November 1747. ^* It was while he held this charge," says his friend and biographer, Dr Keith, ** that the powers of his mind began more fully to unfold themselves, and his character to rise in the opinion of men of learning. In a short itme he was con- sidered the best lecturer, or expounder of Holy Scripture in this part of the country. It was while explaining the New Testament to his parishioners, that he first formed a plan of translatincr the four Gospels, which he afterwards published ; and it was in this country parish, long before any attention was paid in the north of Scotland to the niceties of grammar, that he composed a part of his Philosophy of Rhetoric." It appears that his celebrated Dissertation on Miracles, first drawn up in the form of a ser- mon preached before the synod, October 1 769, was begun also in this place, and that the scenery and circumstances tiien exist- ing around him afforded several of its illustrations. Only a few memorials of his incumbency exist, and but a few faint recol- lections of him remain among some of the oldest parishioners. An apartment, with a turreted window, in the old manse, is shown to strangers as his study ; and the old oak pulpit, in which he preached, is still preserved. The session records show that, under his ministry, the former severity of kirk censures was somewhat relaxed; and a few trivial incidents mentioned, indi- cate, as might be expected, a firm and judicious management. The weak state of his health seems to have required his occa- sional absence, and, along with his studious habits, prevented those laborious exertions among his parishioners which distino-uished some of his predecessors. It is still reported, and of this there are some traces in the register, that certain parties in the parish endeavoured to render his situation unpleasant, and that this, with his literary and philosphical tastes, made him desirous of a remov- al to town. After he had been here nine years, he became one of the ministers of Aberdeen, 23d June 1757. Subsequently he was made Principal, and afterwards Professor of Divinity in Ma- rischal College. On the Sunday previous to his settlement in Aberdeen, he preached a farewell discourse to his congregation, from 2d Corinthians xiii. 11, which seems to have produced a 4 banchory-tehnan. 347 deep impression. An old man who died lately, used to refer to it as his earliest remembrance, and called it ** the great greeting in the Kirk o' Banchorj.** The subsequent events of Dr C.'s life, and an account of his various writings, will be found detailed in the account of him prefixed to his ^* Lectures on Ecclesiastical His- tory." The incidents we have noticed, minute and trivial as they may be, are yet, perhaps, not entirely without interest in* consi- dering the character of a man [whom Scotland justly boasts as one of her greatest philosophers, and the church regards as one of her ablest champions and brightest ornaments. *^ Reid," said Robert Hall of I Leicester, " had a more vigorous and original mind than Stewart, but Campbell, I suspect, was superior to both. He could have done all that Reid or Stewart has accomplished, and neither of them could have written his * Preliminary Dissertations* to his work on the Gospels." A sagacious acuteness was a pro- minent feature in his intellect. It is exhibited remarkably in some published specimens of his correspondence with Dean Tuck- er. A love of truth and fairness was a strong characteristic of his moral nature. " Purity, seriousness, and candour," said he, " are the only sure guides to the temple of religious truth.'** He had a high, but not a proud sense of the dignity belonging to personal worth, and there are evidences, not generally recognized, that at least at the close of his life, his inward practical sense of religion was deep and sincere. He died 6th April 1796, in the 77th year of his age. Land-owners. — The principal land-owners are. Sir Thomas Burnett of Leys, Bart. ; William Innes, Esq. of Raemoir ; Henry Lumsden, Esq. of Tilwhilly ; Lieutenant W. B. Ramsay of Ban- chory Lodge ; Anthony Mactier, Esq. of Durris ; Duncan David- son, Esq. of Inchmarlo ; John Mitchell, Esq. of Forcett Hall and Glassel; and Colonel John Campbell of Blackball. All these, except Mr Lumsden, Mr Mactier, and Colonel Campbell, have mansion-houses within the parish. Modern Buildings. — Crathes Castle, the seat of the family of Leys, situated on a green bank, at the end of a ridge of wooded rocks, and embosomed among fine trees, is an imposing baronial structure, consisting of a tall square tower having ornamented tur- rets, in the Scotch castellated style, and of some modern additions. The walls are massive, and it was formerly considered capable of defence. The ancient hall or dining-room is in good preserva- tion, and contains some family portraits painted by Jamieson. 348 K1NCARD1NE8HIRC. The castle of Tilwhilly, built on the slope of a hill on theoth^r side of the Dee, commands an extensive prospect towards Aber- deen. It is formed of several plain massive buildings, commuDi- eating with each other, and apparently erected at different periods without much plan. It ceased to be the residence of that branch of the Douglas family upwards of 100 years ago, and is now oc- cupied by the tenant of the surrounding farm. It contains nume- rous apartments, and has a dark vault, formerly used, it is said, as a prison. The entrance of the whole is still furnished with the ancient grille and bar. The other mansions are elegant and commodious modern build* ings, remarkable chiefly for their interesting situations, and the beauty of theirgrounds. The villas, which are all situated along the Dee, display very considerable taste. The church, which existed at the Reformation, was placed in the burying-ground, near the brink of the river. The only remains of this ancient building are a frag- ment of the font, bearing the arms of the Abbey of Arbroath, and one or two other unimportant relics. It was rebuilt in 1775, and being found too small and inconvenient in 1824, it was removed a few hundred yards to a higher situation, on the opposite side of the public road. It is a plain substantial building, in the Gothic style, sufficiently neat and commodious within, but defective in hav- ing the tower in front too low, and in having neither a vestry nor porches behind. The Bridge of Dee was first erected by public subscription in 1798. It consisted of a central wooden arch, 175 feet wide, hav- ing a smaller stone arch of half that width on each side, and a small supplemental one of 19 feet on the south bank. After the flood of 1829, it had fallen into such disrepair, that an iron truss arch was substituted for the wooden, at the expense of the trustees of the Stonehaven road. It is a singular but not a very commo- dious structure, and harmonizes but indifierently with its fine situa- tion. The bridge of Feugh is a strong plain erection, agreeing tolerably well with its position. The material employed in these and other buildings within the parish is chiefly granite. 1 1 1. — Population. The average number of annual births from 1700 to 1712 was 53, and of marriages, 14; while the average of births from 1830 to 1840 was 50, and of marriages, 16. The populatiou must therefore have been, in 1700, about 2077. BANCHORY-TKRNAN. 340 In 1755, (according to Dr Webster,) it was 1786 In 1766, (Garden*s Map,) . 1980 In 1791, (Old Statistical,) 1340 In 1801, 1^22 In 1811, . .. 1559 In 1821, . . 1729 In 1831, . . . 1972 In 1841, . 2240 Making due allowance for some inaccuracy in the first three of these statements, the popfilation would still appear to have been remarkably great here at the beginning of the last century, espe- cially when it is considered that not more than one-third of the present arable land was then in cultivation, and its productive powers perhaps scarcely one-half. Almost all the grain raised was consumed at home. Even in 1 758 there were but two carts in the whole parish. From 1650 to 1709, meal cost L.4 to L.10 Scot3 per boll; an ox, 12 merks; a sheep, 5 merks. Retainers, sub- tenants, and the occupiers of small patches of land are known to have been very numerous. The salmon of the Dee was plentiful, and constituted a considerable part of the sustenance of the la* bouring classes, who were, however, in some instances, in a wretchedly poor condition as respects the comforts and conveni- ences of life. The decrease between 1766 and 1791 is said to ''* have been owing to the emigration of the work people to the manufactories at Aberdeen ; to some of the heritors taking large farms under their own management ; to some of the farmers not choosing to have subtenants; and to a very uncommon mortality which prevailed in the winter of 1789." (Old Stat.) During this period a whole hamlet disappeared, in the northern part of the parish alone. The number of oxen employed in tillage fell to one-half; and the greatest part of about 150 acres, still bearing the marks of former cultivation, then became waste. The sub- sequent increase since 1801 beyond the common rate of aug- mentation, arises chiefly from the greater number of labourers drawn together by the spirited and constant improvements of the landlords ; from the greater extent of surface breught into culti- vation, aSbrding many possessions entirely new ; from the greater number of farm-servants thereby rendered necessary ; from an in- crease of resident capitalists ; and from the formation of a flourish- ing village. The average number of births, for the last ten years, ns already stated, was .50 ; of these, 5 were illegitimate. I'he average num- ber of marriages, from 1831 to 1836, was 16, and of funerals, 43 nearly. In 1838, there were 5 still-born. In 1841, 3H0 poruouu 350 KINCARDINESHIRE. under sixteen, were attending school, and 62 persons in the parish were above 70 years of age. The whole population consisted of 1073 males, and 1167 females, inhabiting 501 bouses, and oonati- tuting 535 families. Of these families, 26 are those of proprietor!, capitalists, and professional men. About 125 are employed in Uade 'and handicraft; 246 belong to occupiers of land, 12 of whom pa? L.100 and upwards of rent; 46 pay L.50 and above; 17 betveen L.50 and L.20; 171 below L.20; nearly one-half of the wbok of these occupiers of land are also labourers, and earn wages through a part of the year ; 49 families are those of paupers, and the rest labourers and servants. The population, though mixed, is Celtic in its general character, spirit, and appearance; but there is no historical or traditional account of the Gaelic lan- guage having been spoken in the parish. No particular names seem at any time to have prevailed among the inhabitants ; nor, with some exceptions, do the descendants of the same families appear to have remained within the parish since 1688. Illicit distillation formerly prevailed to a great extent, and pro- duced its baneful effects on the morals of the people ; but it has been suppressed for many years. The floating of wood is an oc- cupation which seems to have an unfavourable effect on the cha- racter and habits of those who engage in it ; but, happily, very few here undertake this employment. Poaching is not remarkably common. There has been one criminal case from this place be- fore the High Court of Justiciary, and fourteen before the She- riff's Court during the last ten years. Nine of these were thefts committed by strangers in the parish ; five were cases of assault by inhabitants. IV. — Industry. The number of imperial acres cultivated is 6069. About 665, now lying waste, might be brought into cultivation, and 9339 do not seem susceptible of improvement ; 5234 are under wood, about 1000 acres of which might be profitably cultivated. The average rent of arable land is L.1, Os. 6d. per acre. The valued rent of the whole is L.3664 Scots, and the actual rent, L.6273 Sterling. Grass for an ox or cow, during the season, on infield pasture, is L.2 ; for a sheep, 5s. ; on outfield pasture, 1 7s. and 2s. respectively. Labour. — The average wages of full-grown male farm-servants, hired by the year, are L.12, and of full-grown female, L.5, 10s., be- sides their maintenance, which, for the former, is valued at L.S, 10s., and for the latter, at L.6, 10s. The hire of boys and girls in agricultural families is L.6 and L.3, and their board is reckoned BANCHORY-TERN AN. 35 1 at L.6. Of all these kinds of agricultural labourers and assistants, there are at present 156 men, 1 15 wonfien, 100 boys, and 66 girls ; the hire and maintenance of whom, together with those of 240 oc- cupiers of the soil (about one-half of whom are permanently, and the other occasionally, employed in tilling their own ground,) will represent the annual average value of labour employed in agricul- tural production; when there are added to this L.402 for addi- tional work in harvest, and also the expense of the keep and la- bour of 252 agricultural horses. Day labourers have in summer, men. Is. 8d., and in winter, Is. 4d. ; women, 8d. to lOd. Of these, 82 men, at a yearly ave- rage, are permanently employed by the land-holders alone, and the amount of wages paid them is about L.19 1 S. Artisans receive 2s. 6d. per day in summer, and 2s. 2d. in winter. More than 125 persons are employed in trade and handicraft. Cattle. — The number of oxen, or dry cattle kept at present in the parish, is 793; of cows, 735; and of calves or yearlings, 714. The oxen and cows are generally of the Aberdeenshire breed ; some of the Teeswater, lately introduced, are not found to answer so well. The number of farm-horses is 252, and of others, 23. There are 2108 sheep, mostly of the Highland black*faced breed, and 266 pigs. Much has been done for the improvement of cattle in this dis- trict by the Dee-side Agricultural Association, — a society composed of the proprietors and tenantry of this and eight surrounding pa* rishes, to the number of eighty individuals, who hold cattle shows at least once a-year in this place, and distribute prizes to the amount of L.70 annually. The disease called red- water or moor- ill, proves here very injurious to the farmer's stock in some seasons, and apparently in some localities more than in others. It occurs most frequently in the winter months, but is not unknown in sum- mer. It attacks various kinds of cattle ; but cows, towards the end of pregnancy, or after calving, are more liable to it than others. Cattle from the Highland districts are seldom seized with it, pro- bably from their hardy nature, and are therefore said to be darn bred. The discoloration of the urine and extreme constipation are its most prominent symptoms. Various causes are assigned for its occurrence. Some old people believe in the existence of a mysterious plant, called the dam^ which gives rise to it, but which few of them yet profess to have seen. Most, however, agree in thinking that acrid, or otherwise unwholesome food, is the prin- 352 KINCARDINESHIRE. cipsil cause. An intelligent veterinary surg^eon of the place cribes it chiefly to too close confinement of the cattle in wioi to the use of frosty water, and to some irre^larities and misr nagement in the supply of food. The treatment chiefly race mended is purgation. The production and management of dairy produce is becomi a matter of some attention and importance ; but the inferior qi lity of the cows, the poorness of many of the pastures, and I want of a ready market, tend greatly to keep down its quaot and value. Bees do not thrive in the neighbourhood of the rir but in other parts they are successfully kept in considerable nui bers. Farm-houses and ofiices are here generally commodious a substantial, and daily becoming more so. They have 43 thras ing-machines belonging to them. There are 4 grain-mills in t parish, 4 saw-mills, 1 for turning the bobbins used in cotton m nufactories, and 1 for carding wool and for the manufacture of few coarse stufis. Mode of Agriculture^ §*c. — The seven years* shift was son years ago, the rotation of cropping generally in use. Now, hoi ever, a great proportion of the farmers ' practise the five veai shift, and some are introducing the sixth. The scythe is a most universally used in reaping, and 4| returns for seed ma be regarded as the general average. This average is great< than it was twenty years ago, before the adoption of recent in provements, but it is still kept low by the yearly increasing cult vation of new soils. The return varies from three to twelve fol throughout the parish. Towards the banks of the river, wher gravel forms a large proportion of the soil, crops, though earlj are generally light, and sufler greatly from drought But toward the hills, where there is a stronger loam, they are often good, am sometimes tolerably heavy. Hay is frequently a deficient crop but turnips and potatoes thrive well. When rain does not fal plentifully in June and July, the pastures present a miserable ap pearance, and generally the crop fails. A moist summer is, hen especially, the farmers* delight. The proverbial saying on thi: part of Dee-side is, that " the land requires a shower every day and two on Sunday." The expense of trenching and clearing ac acre of new land averages L.17, 10s. Some proprietors under- take the whole of such improvements for their tenants, charging them with a rent of about L.1 per Scotch acre. Others trench BANCHOBY-TERNAN. 363 the ground, 6)1 the drains, and put up the fences, without any addi- tional charge of rent, and leave the tenant to do the rest. The leases are for nineteen years, and buildings and fences are now erected mostly at the landlord's expense, and upheld by the te- nant. The practice of subletting, once prevalent, is almost un- known. Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish, according to the mean of two separate sets of returns, is Grain and fodder. L.11,186 Green crops, 5,730 Hay, 4,107 Pasture land, outfield and infield, 1687 Gardens, 252 Woods, 935 Fishings, 65 Wool, 132 Dairy produce. 3122 Total, L.27,216 To this ought still to be added the produce of the cattle, or the value, at birth, of calves, lambs, and pigs, &c. Remarks. — Since 1793^ the date of the former Satis tical Ac- count, the agricultural improvements in this parish have been very rapid and considerable. Its rental has increased threefold, and the extent of its cultivated surface has been more than doubled, (even in 1806 it was but 2378 Scotch acres,) and the mode of conducting farming operations, which was then generally of the most slovenly and antiquated description, has come to embrace almost all the modern improvements. During the last twenty years especially, the landlords have expended a large capital in effecting important ameliorations, and done much, by their example and encouragement, to diffuse a spirit of improve* ment among their tenantry. But not a little still remains to be done. Besides the arable land which might yet be redeemed, from at least 1665 acres of waste pasture and wood of little value, and besides the planting of some parts of 9339 acres unfit for cul- tivation, a system of proper drainage is in many places greatly re- quired. It is believed that, were the large low marshy tract ex- tending through the north of the parish, bordering on the loch of Drum, and comprehending the loch of Leys, the course of the Canny and some other rivulets, thoroughly and properly drained by the co-operation of the proprietors interested, it would not only redeem a number of acres capable of profitable cultivation, but greatly benefit much of the neighbouring soil already cultivated, and KINCARDINE. Z 354 KINCARDINESHIRE. improve generally the climate. Out of 246 occupiers of land, 171 who pay only L.20 and under of reut, and more than 100 of vhoo look to other means besides the cultivation of their possessions fo their support, seem a large proportion of that class of tenants vb* have neither capital nor labour to bestow on the soil^ and who can not be expected to develope or augment its productive powen Besides other evils, it subjects the landlord to a heavy expense fo unnecessary buildings, and proves in a great many instances a pre fitless and detrimental concern to the tenants theoiselves. Th machinery of agricultural production might in several cases her do more work, and do it better at less cost ; but a change in th size and number of farms, and consequently in the class of occu piers, obviously involves many considerable difficulties, and muc time. It is admitted on all hands, that a rotation of croppio which breaks up the land frequently, is unsuitable to the soil hen of itself too friable and easily exhausted. It is thought, therefon that the general adoption of the six year shift would be a desin ble improvement ; that by this system greater returns might I expected with less labour and expense, and that the soil would t kept '^ in better heart." As the rearing of cattle must always for a prominent feature in the agriculture of the district, it seems ali desirable that their breeding and management, tojo^ether with systematic care of dairy produce, should receive still farther a tention and improvement, of which, it is believed, they are great susceptible. The annual average value of a cow's produce her exclusive of the calf, is scarcely L.4, while in some other distric it is L.8 or LlO, and in the neighbourhood of Aberdeen, JL.13. The economy and neatness of cottages are beginning to attrai attention. It is the opinion of some practical gardeners, that orcharc would form a proBtable addition to them on this part of Dee-sid< Several situations in the parish are admirably adapted for villas, an will, no doubt, be thus occupied in the course of a few years. Th increasing accommodation required for strangers who come from distance to lodge a few weeks in summer, and the diniinisbiui number of cottars in the surrounding parts of the country, wil probably very soon increase greatly the size of the village ; but i is questionable whether this will prove a permanent benefit. A great improvement, which would tend to stimulate most others would be a cheap and speedy mode of conveyance to anc i from Aberdeen. At present, the carriage of coals or lime costs from 2s. to 3s. per boll, and the greater part of two days are con- sumed in going and returning this distance of eighteen miles. A BANCHORY-TERNAN. 355 railroad has lately been talked of; but it is evident that, if ever executed, it must be only as a part of a more distant and proBtable transit. V. — Parochial Economy. Villaffes.'^ln the immediate vicinity of the churchyard and the manse a few houses, generally styled " Townhead," show the re- mains of the old village of Banchory, formerly, it is believed, of much greater extent. It is mentioned as existing in 1324, and it probably originated in the habitations required by the vicar or his curate and other assistants, who served the chapel of St Ternan in early Catholic times. It was the Kirktown. A broken stone cross, or small pillar, is seen in an area near the middle of it, and it appears from the register already mentioned, that the Barony Court of Leys was most frequently held in the place. The only road from Aberdeen on the north side of the Dee, forty years ago, passed through it, and it had then a flourishing inn. It now con* tains but the old manse, the two endowed schools, a farm-house and offices, and seven or eight labourers' cottages. The new or Arbeadie village was begun by three individuals in 1805, 1807, and 1809, who took in feu successively from one of the proprietors in all about twenty Scotch acres, which cost them 2s. 6d., ds., and L« 1 per acre, and for which they continue to pay in whole L.1 1, 4s. 6d. The ground is now sub-feued at the rate of L.12 to L.1 20 per acre. It has at present 50 houses, inhabit-^ ed by 72 families, and contains a Dissenting chapel, a post-officCf a prison, two schools, three inns, and in the immediate vicinity, a branch of the Bank of Scotland. It is the residence of a Dissent- ing clergyman, of a surgeon, of a feu-proprietor, of a constable, of a watchmaker, of a dancing master, of a coachman, of a carrier, of a letter-carrier, of a road-contractor, of a baker, of 2 plasterers, 2 gardeners, 2 schoolmistresses, 3 innkeepers, 3 shopkeepers, 3 floaters, 3 weavers, 4 shoemakers, 4 tailors, 4 carpenters, 4 saw- yers, 13 labourers, and 20 servants. Societies. — There are six associations for various purposes in the parish, — the " Dee-side Agricultural Association," already men- tioned, with 80 members;. the " Banchory Horticultural Society," with 51; a lodge of « Odd Fellows," with 30; a "Rechabite Tent," with 25; an «' Abstinence Society," with 200; a " Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge," with about the same number ; an ^^ Association for the Distribution of Religious Tracts," with seven distributors. 356 KINCARDINESHIRE. Fairs. — Six annual fairs are held here, one in each of the fol- lowing months, — February, March, June, July, August, Decem- ber. That in June, St Ternan's, the most ancient, is attended by about 500 to 600 venders, who pay custom ; the one in March, by 300 to 400 ; the rest by only 100 to 200. The numbers fre- quenting them are falling off, from other (airs having been esta- blished in all parts of the neighbourhood. Roads. — The village is distant from Aberdeen exactly eighteen miles, with which it communicates by a direct central road passing through it, and extending to Braemar. Parallel to this, and com- municating with it near the church by a cross road from Raemoir, is a turnpike running along the base of the Hill of Fare for Ore miles, and connecting the northern parts of this and the neigh- bouring parish of Kincardine with Aberdeen through Skene, &c Another turnpike leaves the village on the south, and passing the Dee immediately below, and shortly afterwards the Feugh, by the bridges already noticed, it occupies the south bank of the river for about a mile, and then diverges across the Grampians to the county town, Stonehaven, sixteen miles distant, while from the point of divergence a new turnpike continues along the Dee to Aberdeen. From the Bridge of Feugh a county road passes up the side of that stream for two miles, and, crossing the Grampians at the pass of Cairn o' Month, reaches Fettercairn, seventeen miles distant. A considerable transit takes place on this route during summer, in driving cattle from the fairs in Garioch and Buchan to the southern markets. A mail-coach passes through the village daily ; and a stage-coach during one-half of the year leaves it for Aberdeen every morning, and returns at night. There are also eight carriers who leave the parish weekly for that place, most of whom generally take with them a load of timber, and bring back coal, lime, and other goods in return. Wood, both in rafts and in single pieces, arc transmitted hence by the Dee in every fa- vourable state of the flood ; and large quantities are seen passino^ this from the upper districts. The Church is conveniently situated for the majority of the pa- rishioners. A few families, however, at the extreme limits, are nearly five miles distant from it. It affords accommodation for about 1300 persons. It has no free unappropriated sittings. Se- veral of the heritors have more of the area allotted to them than is required for their own tenantry; but it is fully occupied by the ^ BANCHORY-TERNAN^ 35T m ^ surplus tenantry of others, and by the inhabitants of the village, ^ for whose accommodation it has hitherto been let The present * manse was built in 1798. It received a small addition about 1803, "^and twelve "years ago still farther additions and repairs. The glebe wants more than a fourth of an acre of its legal size, and is ^ ^ of the ordinary value of the fields in its neighbourhood, — L.2 per J^ f^^ acre. In 1835, the CoXirt of Teinds modified the stipend at 13($ ; bolls of meal, and the same number of barley; buLthe teinds of t^e parish were found to be exhauste d by 12 6 btfllsof each. "^Chere is here a chapel of Independents, or Congregational ^ Dissenters, attended by about nine families within, and five with- out the parish, and having in all fifteen to twenty communicants, wnK^n ordinary occasions constitute nearly the whole congrega- >^on. Five families belong to the Episcopalian, one to the Ro- ^ ni^ Catholic^ and one to the United Secession Church. Divine B service in the parish church is remarkably well attended in the '^forenoon. The number of communicants averages 1000. The |K annual amount of collections for missionary and educational pur- V poses is about L.I2, and nearly as much is collected for the Aber- ^ deen Infirmary and other charities. A strong movement took place in this parish about three years ago in favour of temperance, which led to the formation of two associations, the Total Absti- nence Society, and the Rechabite Tent There can be little doubt that these societies have, on the whole, exerted here a be- neficial effect on formerly existing opinions and practices respecting the use of liquors, and have spread their salutary influence into some of the surrounding districts. The association for the dis- tribution of religious tracts circulates 400 monthly. Education. — The total number of permanent schools is 10. Of these 3 are parochial, 2 are endowed, 1 supported partly by sub- scriptions, and the others depend entirely on their teachers' own exertions. The three parochial schoolmasters, besides their fees, have the maximum salary of L.5], 6s. 6|d. divided among them, with houses, and gardens, &c. rent-free. One of them, who is also teacher of the boys' school endowed by Sir Thomas Burnett and Dr Reid, receives thereby in addition L.16. The fund mor- tified by the same individuals for the maintenance of a girls' school yields the schoolmistress about L.4, 10s. a- year. Another girls' school, lately established in the new village, has hitherto been supported by subscriptions to the extent of L.18 a-year ; but it is understood that, after two years, all support additional to the 358 KINCARDINESHIRE. school-fees is to cease. The whole amount of fees paid wHI the parish is about L.175; and the total expense of educati L.dlO. In all these schools, instructions are given in readii writing,- arithmetic, geography, and history. In one of the gii schools, French and music; and in the three parochial,. I^l geometry, and land*surveying, are also occasionally taught careful and regular system of teaching is practised in nearly of them ; and the method of mutual instruction, by question i answer among the pupils themselves, has been very extensiv and very successfully applied to almost every subject of their e cation. The number of schools ten years ago was four, sni scholars attending them about 150. At the presbyterial ex2i nations on let March 1842, 895, or. more than one-sixth the population, were present in all the day*scbooIs, while i wards of 400 children were, at the same period, attending Sunday schools, constantly taught in the parish throughout year. These numbers, however, decrease during summer nearly one-half. Parents here are very generally alive to the nefits of education for their children, and a decided change the better has taken place, especially among the young, since facilities of education were increased, and its quality improi In truth, a very considerable desire for general information ex even among adults, to satisfy which an association was formed i years ago for the dissemination of useful knowledge, and lectu on scientiBc subjects were delivered here and in other pla( which met with great success, and were listened to with deep terest. An attempt has also been lately made to cultivate a m general taste for music by the formation of an instrumental ba This promises to be useful, both in raising the pleasures of soi and in rendering others capable of still higher pursuits. A pa cbial library has existed for many years, and consists of upwa of 400 volumes, chiefly on religious and historical subjects. The Poor's Funds consist, l^^, of the collections made in I parish church (the average annual amount of which, exclusive those allotted for other purposes, has been for the last three yej L.lOO;) 2rf, of the Leys mortification, yielding annually L.1 15s.; 3rf, of the interest of L.lOO mortified by Dr Alexand Reid, physician to Charles I.; of L. 100 by Mr Alexander Shan of Castlerigg, a son of one of the ministers ; of L.60 by Dr Greor^ Reid of London ; and of L.50 by Mrs Aberdeen of Glassel ; an Ath^ of occasional donations, mortcloth dues, and some accumi \ A\ BANCHORY-TBRNAN.* 33^ lated savings. The wliole pri^uces an annual ^average revenue, _ •r L.201, 18s. \ ,. ^ ^ * "Th^ average numbed of pool^frotn 1700 to 1709 inclusive was 68. The average sum given to each yearly was L.2, 10s. Scots, or 4vtkt. Sterling. The population, as alr^dy noticed, was theti^ about 2077. In 1793, the poor were 8l) in number, while the * whol^ population was but 1340, and the whole annual amount of collections L.19, 10s., and the interest of mortifications L.3'2, 10s., affording an average allowance to each pauper of 13s. . The num- ber of poor now on the roll has averaged, sin'fce 1838, 65, and the total number relieved annually has been 85. The allowance to each in 1840, exclusive of lunatics, was L.1, I3s. < Tln^ disposition to refrain from seeking parochial reliei in re- duced circumstances among persons here, who have belonged to ^. the class of day-labourers or s%)all farmers^ i^ by no means great, aflhoygh occasional instabces or it do o^cur. The tendency among ^ those just able to support themselves, to leave their poor relations to the assistance of the parish, is rather, oji the increase. But much charity is given in private, not oflly by the rich, but by^tlH middle and even the poorer classes themselves. Were it other- wise^paupers could not subsist on the pittance which they now receive from the parochial funds. Their d%t generally cinskts of oatmeal and a little tea and sugar, which costs them nearly Is. 8d. per week, to which they have to add Id. for soap. In or- der to'^raise this sum of 3d. per day, (emale paupers, iiidyliQ^ry healtt), besides their allowance^df N. ffom the kirk funds, have recourse to knitting, which is distributed to them monthly by an agent of one of the woollen manufacturers iff^^erdeen. But' the ' utmost that they can make at such work is onTy aiMher Id. per ay. Private charity, therefore, must either make up to them the value of the remainder, or they must renounce their tea and sugar, and live chiefly on oatmeal, which many of them actually do. They are, besides, entirely indebted, in a great many in* stances, to private benevolence, for clothing, winter fuel, and Ifcbs^rent, and for attendance and medicine when sick. Mgny praiseworthy acts of disinterested kindness are performed for them on s^ch ^casions,. by their almost equally poor neighbours, and that oftenVt the sacrifice of not a little personal comfort and ease. Mfeile paupers, unable for field labour, have here no resources in in-door work ; but they form only one-fifth of the whole number, and are all members of families who contribute to their support. October 1842. ■ * \" s / ^^^i.^uyyy^ ^ «^ « 1^- A / ;^^*VsC 22 2t £ir^ y64 2 :l^^i^^^^ -9^^ COUNTY OF KINCARDINE. This County is situate betwixt 56^43^ and 57^5' north lati- tude ; and betwixt P.47' and 2^30' west longitude. It is bounded on the north, by Aberdeenshire; on the south and west, by Forfarshire ; and on the east, by the German Ocean. It is 32 miles in length from north to south, and 24 in breadth. It contains about 360 square miles. The surface of the County, to the extent of about two -thirds, or about 100,000 acres, is level and cultivated. The other third is a very elevated and sterile region, consisting of the eastern range of tlie Grampians. ^Qiis County sends one Member to Parliament. The constitu- ency in 1841 amounted to 897, — the population being 33,052. Tiie annual value of real property, as assessed in 1815, was L. 94,861. Table I. — Showing the number of persons c^i[^ni%d for trial or bailed in the County, for different offences, in the year 1841 : Offences against the person, . 6 property, with violence, ' • ^ % without violeribe^ ^ •l^ 21 im^A^^NE. A a 362 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COUNTY. 1 2 so C .2 3 '5 c o Cm O a s S OS 1 e e < • y 3 «« ^» c X k a; 1 1 i • e3 OOOO o :oooo :^ : : • • ■ • :cio90 : : ;. • ^^ ^^ • ■ • "^ 1 • • la • a '5 — S • o ©Jo ^«o«^ ,5 o .22® ^2§ - • ». ■ ^^ • r* • • • • • °©« •? ■ ■ the County of Kinear US ^^ U ooo ooo o ooo ^ ooo .© J s 000 00 e 1 • E 2 1 c 2 « n O 4J > 5 . . .® . . . ^* • • » ■ • • • • • • S5 000 ••••is- • • • • • ^^ • • • • • • _^ I : § S^^ 00 - 00 • • • B a 38 SS 6 B ■ •• s * ^v 1 oo oo ooo «o .^J*^ .'^OO J e 3 1 5 h JB • • as oo oo OOO oo oooco • 8 00 "■■ 00 00 : : : : : 1 t cal State, • "a CO OwOOO OwO • ODO'^Tl'^iJ-tOO • ooc^;^ 00 ;±)" ■ oo-^-^^ooo • ea 00 w 00 OT c5 ©1 54 TO « J 5 e o s . lit J III SJCKHPS |«^C-«*-T^'-^^^ "* ■ 5l ! "5-5 ig Ecclesia 6 mt *»» Ml s *^ 1 o 3 Sk ^ C o £ 1^ § ^5 »ai es O CO cs »0 Q — >o JC -O J= X »o l^ 'O • %A% 1 ! = •« :# jj2Jj a 2:22 ? 1 2 3 • • h 1^ o n : : : S; ? • 1 S 9 IS CO • -SJOpOOOg JO SJ3)U0S6ICI JO so|iiiuB>y •op 'OQ spnpuip.ii • • • • • • • 1" ;^ ti ijJS 2 ■» o ci ^ o ^n: o Q : 35 i:* "? GO : 51 35 fa : 2 2* r^ 1^ • f?i • 1 • • 1 H : 1 :J : : —J »4 < 0) Suiijao[ -aqsoi]iiuii,| •(?i^ *t* * • • • • Jm! • i^ • • • • • 05'^ 'r* • • . . CO CO •••• • •.! ill in [ uon«[n(Ioj iilllilll »» t e* 3 i i i i •s 'S «r 3 ♦* ci » CQ &N b N^ < Q : a: INDEX. Aan water, the, 231, 232 Abbot's Well, remains of the, 201 Abercrombie, C, of Bellfield, did Aberdeen, Mrs, bequest by, 358 Aberluthnott, ancient parish of, 2^7 — burn, 298 Adam's castle» ruins of, 314 Aen water, 231, 232 Agricola, remains of, 249 Agricultural association, the Banchory, 239— the Deeside, 351, 355-.the Fet. tercairn, 103, 123 Agriculture and rural economy, statistics of, 11, 42, 59, 92, 120, 138, 161, 167, 173, 191, 204, 224, 237, 253, 286, 303, 316, 350 Agriculture, improved state of, in Ber- vie, 21 — in Banchory- Teman, 353 Allardyce, Alexander, 222 Allardyce, Captain Barclay, 159, 252 — improvements introduced by, 257 Allardyce of Redmire, 132 Allardyce castle, 9 — house, remains of, 159 Altens, harbour and village of, 196 Anderson, Mr, of Deebank, 181 Animal remains found in Arbuthnott, 155 Antiquities, 7, 34, 56, 80, 83, 115, 131, 159, 172, 190, 201, 219, 236, 249, 279,301,314,335 Arbeadie, \'illBge of, 355 Arbuthnott, family of, 32 Arbuthnott, Lord Viscount, 83, 1 14, 159, 339 — plantations formed by, in For- doun, 78 — burial aisle of, 159 Arbuthnott, the Hon. General, 301 Arbuthnott, the laird of, murder of Mel- ville of Glenbervie by, 34 Arbuthnott, Dr John, 313 Arbuthnott, Dr, 158 Arbuthnott, Principal, 158 Arbuthnott, parish of, 153 — origin of the name, &c. ib. — its civil history, 156 — land-owners in, 159 — population of, 161 Arbuthnott house, 26, 161 — remarkable trees at, 156 Arches, natural, at Stranathro, 245 Ardlair, cairn at, 237 KINCARDINE. I Ardo, stone coffin found at, 183 Arduthie, town of, 262 — mineral springs at, 245 Armour, ancient, found in the Hog's Hole, 161 Arnbarrow, hill of, 69 Amhali, improvements on the property of, 122 — manufactures at, 123 Arnott of Leithfield, 83 Arthur house, cairn at, 38 Associations, agricultural, 239, 351, 355, 103, 123~charitable,in Strachan,242 Auchinblae, village of, 25, 69, 90, 103 — flax.mill at, 89 Auchlee, Druidical remains at, 182 Auchlunics house, 191 Auqubirie, district of, 214 — remarkable trees at, 219 Balbcgno castle, ruins of, 1 1 6 — house, 26 Balmakelly burn, 299 Balmakewan house, 302 Balmaleedie hill, 298— burn, 299 Balnakettle, native iron found at, 113 Banchory Horticultural Society, the, 355 Banchory, loch of, 327— lodge, 286 Banchory- Devenick, parish of, 178 — origin of the name, ib. — its history and owners, 181 — excerpts from the pa- rish registers of, ib. Banchory. Teman, parish of, 323 — origin of the name, ib. — extent, boundaries, &c, 324 — its history, 335 — ministers of, from 1580, 342— land-owners in, 347 — its population, 348 — parochial economy of, 355 Bank, branch of, at Stonehaven, 263 Banncrman, Sir Thomas, bequest by, 268 Barclay, Robert, author of the Apology for the Quakers, 252 Barf;lay of Mathers, murder of the she- riff of the Mearns by, 34 Barclay of Ury, family of, 251 Barclay, Colonel David, of Ury, 248 Barclay Allardyce, Captain, 159, 252 — improvements introduced by, 225, 253, 257 Barras house, 228 Battack, mount, 24, 231, 232 Battle of the Grampians, supposed site of the, 250 Bb 364 KINCARDINESHIRE. Beattie, Dr, birth-place of, 132 — ^his re- | sideiice in Fordoun, 83— scene of his " Retirement," 69 Beattie, Professor, birth-place of, 83, 1 32 Benholme, parish of, 51 — origin of the name, &c., ib its history, 56 — gene- ral observations on, 63 — tower, 56 Bennie burn, 325 Bequests, various, to Feltercaim, 124 Berryhill house, 253 Bervie, parish of, 1 — origin of the name, &C., ib its history, 5 — land-owners in, 7 — population of, 10 — ^its ecclesi- astical state, 1 7 — general observations on, 21 Bervie Brow, 2, 310— hill, 5— water, 1, 2,28,71, 153, 154, 166 Birds, sea,4n Dunnottar, 217 Black, James, bequest by, 124 Black burn, the, 299 Blackball house, 236 Blackiemuir, spinning-mill at, 144 Blairs, Roman Catholic chapel at, 194 BoggendoUo, Mrs, bequest by, 108 Boghead, stone coffins found at, 58 Bos well of Kingcausie, 182 — of Balmu- to, 191 Botany, 4, 82, 55, 177. 155, 180, 190, 199, 218, 234, 277, 300, 310, 332 Bothie system, effects of the, 42 Bowbutts, ancient mounds at, 236 Brand, Mr, bequest by, 296 Brand's hill, 270 Brewery in Stonehaven, 261 Bridges, various, in Marykirk, 301 — in Nigg, 210— in Strachtm, 240 Bridgeton hill, 270— house, 283, 284 Brodie of Arnhall, improvements by, 122 Brucie hill, 154. 310 Burial aisle of the Arbuthnotts, monu- ments in the, 159 Burn, mansion-house of, 26, 119 Bunibank, harbour and village of, 190 203, 208 Burnett of Leys, origin of the family of, 337 Burnett, Bishop, 343, 344 Burnett, Captain, 25 Burnett, General, improvements by, 238 Burnett, Lord Monboddo, 82 Burnett, Mrs, of Monboddo, 78 Burnett, Sir Thomas, of Leys, 253, 340 Burnside, village of, 285, 292 Cadden castle, ruins of, 314 Cairns, Druidical, &c., on Garvock, 35 —at Tulloch, 37— at Sootywells, 38 — Ht Arthur house, ib. — at Forth, 39 —in Durris, 172— in Strachan, 236 — on Cantlay hill, 250 — on St John's . hill, 315— in Banchory-Ternan, 336— memorial on Garvock, 40 Cairarooneam bill, 24, 170 Cairnmountearn, cairn on, 237 Caim-oVmount. hiU of, 24. Ill, '231 Cairnton, remains of ancient camp at, 335 Calder, James, bequest by, 211 Caldham, spinning.miU at, 305 Camps, ancient, remains of, at Re-djle?, 249— at Pitbeadlay, 282— at Cairnun, 335 — Roman, at Fordoun boose, 85 Campbell, Colonel, of Blackhall, 236 CaropbeU, Principal, 344, 345 Cannpvater, 325 Cant, Rev. Anthony, 235 Cantlay hill, cairn on, 250 Cammount, bill and moor of, 212, 21S Carnegie, of Pitarrow, 25 — planttttoiis formed by, 78 Carnegie, Mr, of Redball, 83 Carnegie, Sir James, Bart, of Soutbesk 236 Carron water, the, 166, 212, 216,244, Castlehill, mound at, 236 of Durrix the, 172 Castleton house, 73, 88 — Druidical re- mains at, 86 Caterthun hill, 24 Catterline, village of, 318 Cattle, see Live- Stock Caves, remarkable, in Benholme, 52- in Dunnottar, 213 Chalybeate springs in Fetteresso, 245 —in Marykirk, 298 — at Milton, 274 —in Nigg, 198 Character of population. See Popnlatiufi Charitable institutions and as$ociatioi.€ on, 201 Gladstanes, Archbishop, 819 Gladstone, John, Esq. of Fasque, 25, 114 Glash farquhar, remains found at 18^ Glaslaw bum, 216— hill, 213 ' Glen, Anthony, bequest by, 124 Glenbowie, parish of, 165 — landowners in, 166— general observations on, 169 Glen Dye, 232 Glenfarquhar, Brae of, 68 Glenmailen, Roman camp at, 249 Glenury, distiller}' at, 261 Gordon of Avochie, 25 Gordon, Lord Adam, 122 — improve- ments by, at Bum, 26 Gourdon, John, Esq. of Drumlitbie 159 166 Gordon, Mr, of Murtle, bequest by, 187 Gordon of Fivie and Maryculter, 191 Gordon of Heathcote, bequest by, 195 Gourdon, port of, 15 — village of 16 bill, 2, 52 Grahame of Morphy, 279 Grain, exportation of, fiom Stonbaven 227 INDEX. 367 Grampians, tbe, 112 Granger, Mrs, 221 — rescue of the Scot- tish Regalia by, 312 Granger, Rev. James, 319 Grant of Mount Cyrus, 279 Graves, ancient, at Friar's Dubbs, 7 Gray, Robert, first schoolmaster of Kin- neff, 321 Greencairn, 115 Greencastle, ruins of, 85 Grey Hope, bay of, 198 Habits of the people. See Population Halkerton, family of, 116 Halkerton wood, 25 HaUgreen castle, remains of, 7 Harboura, Johnshaven, 6 1 — Stonehaven, 263 — improvement of it, 227 — Sea. greens, 271 Hatton house, 302 Haugh of Benholme, bay at, 52 Heathcote house, 191 Herring fishery, see Fishery History, civil, 5, 32, 79, 114, 131, 156, 171, 181, 200, 219, 235, 246, 279, 301, 310, 335 Hog, Mr, school founded by, 176 — be> quest by, 177 Hog's hole, animal remains found in the, 1 50 — and stone armour, 16 1 Honeyman, Rev. James, 319 Howe of Corrichie, battle at, 338 Howe of Garvock, the, 23 Howe of the Meams, the, 68 Hunter's hill, the, 69 Huntly, the Earl of, his defeat and death at Corrichie, 339 Husbandry, systems of, 12, 44, 97, 121, 140, 162, 167, 174, 225, 254, 255, 288, 305, 317, Hydrography, 2, 28, '58, 71, 112, 130, 154, 166. 170, 178, 190, 245, 272, 298, 327 Imrie, Colonel, geology of Fettercaim by, 113 Inglismaldie house and woods, 26, 302 Innes, William, Esq. of Cowie, 253 Inns and alehouses, and their effects, 21, 50, 63, 109,127, 164, 169, 177, 188, 195, 211, 243, 263, 296, 308, 322 Inverbervie, burgh of, 8, 15 Iiivercarron, district of, 216 In very house, 236 Iron, native, found on Fettercarin, 11.3 Jackston hill, 270 John of Fordoun, birth-place of, 25, 81 Johnshaven, bay of, 52 — village of, 58, 61 Johnstone lodge, 133 — chalybeate spring at, 130— Roman coins found at, 131 Kaim of Mathers, the, 35^ 280 Kair house, 26, 161 Kames, sandbank of, 165 Keith, family of, and its origin, 32, 247 Keith, Lord Viscount, 219, 313 Keith, the Vicountess, 159 Keith, James, of Benholme, trial of, 57 Keith of Whiterigs, cruel treatment of the Covenantera by, 221 Keith, Rev. Alexander, 319 Keith Murray, Lady, 219 Kelp, manufactory of, in Nigg, 209 Kempstone hill, remains at, 280 Kenneth III. murder of by Fenella, 25— residence and death of, in Kincardine castle, 79 — scene of his murder, 115 Kerloack hill, 24, 232, 324 Kincardine, general observations on, 361 — criminal statistics of, ib. — ecclesi- astical state of, 362 — castle, ruins of, 83 — its history, 84— village of, ib. Kingeausie house, 191 King's stone, in Mondynes, the, 86 Kinloch, George Farquhar, of Kair, 83 Kinloch, William, of Calcutta, bequest by, 164 Kinnaber, salmon fishery of, 289 Kinneff, parish of, 309 — origin of its name, boundaries, &c. ib. — its civil history, 311 — land-ownera in, 313 — population of, 316— -ministers of, from the Reformation, 319 — castle, ruins of, 314 Kintorc, the Earl of, 25, 83, 114, 139, 279, 301 Kirkell, brae of, 68 Kirkside house, 283, 284 Kirkton hUl, 298— house, 302 Kirk town of Fetteresso, the, 262 Kirktown of Fordoun, the, 103 Kirktown of Lawrencekirk, the, 128 Kirktown of St Cyrus, the, 285 Knock hill, 69 Lady Banks' well, 298 Laes, ancient urns found at, 160 Lammas-muir, fair of, 109 Lamy, Rev. John, 282 Landownere, 7, 33, 56, 83, 114, 132^ 159, 181, 191, 200, 219, 236, 279, 301, 313, 334 Land, rent of, see Rent Lawrencekirk, parish of, 128 — history of, 131 — landowners in, 132 — general observations on, 152 — village of, 129 —its civic constitution, &c. 1 44 Lauriston castle, history and ruins of,, 279— house, 280, 283, 284— sand- stone quarries at, 89, 289 Lawson, William, bequest by, 151 Leases, conditions and duration of, 12^ 59, 98, 121, 140, 162, 174, 225, 23& 256 ■ I, 204— loch Liiieii, manubctorf of, in B<^nholme, 60 Live-stock, breeds of, 12, 43, 95, 121, I3<), 162, 173, 193, 225, 2%, 255, 287,804,317,351 Loch Dews, 346 Locbnagar, 24 Lochside, village of, 265 Logie, Francis, Esq. Loitsloii, improvemt of, 198 Long forties, fishing bank of the, 197 Long guUery, a cave, 210 Lumsden, Harry, Esq. of Tilwhil]r,S36 Lutber water, 71, 129, 130, 299 Lulbericuir, rills^ of, 303— mauufiic- turcB in, 305 L;all of Lnuriston, 270 Macdonald, James, Esq. improvements by, 24 Maehiner)', effect of the introduction of, 231 M'lnroy, Captain, of Arnhall, 1 14 Mucticr, Anthony, Esq. of Du iris, 171 Malrolm L supposed burial placeof, 250 Manufactuies, various, in Benholme, 60 _in Bervie, 14— Dunnottar, 227— Fetlercaim, 123— Fetteresso, 261— Fordoun, B9— Laurencekirk, 144— Marykirk, 302, 3"5— Nigg, 209— St Cyrus, 291 Matiuscclpu, ancient, in Aibutbnott house, 160 Maps, ancient, of Fordoun, 80 Murischal, origin and history of Che fa- mily of, 32, 221, 247, 251— theii bu- rial'ptace, 222 Markets, Stonehaven, 263. See also Mills, spinning, in Ma Milton, ti of, 2 spnni Milton of Mathers, d village of, 275 Mindernal hill, 170 Mineral springs in Ft Maiykirk, 298 — at Mineralogy, see Geolo Missils, ancient, in / 160 Monastery, remaina of Monboddo, Lord, 8a Mouboddo house, 25, Moiibois, remains four Mondynes, brae of, 68 at, 86 Montrose, Che Marquis Morice, David, plajita 197— John of Tullo Morphy, castle of, 2 quarries at, 289 Morison, Dr, school en Mounds, arli&ciul, at S Mount CyruB, plantai mansion- house of, 2l Mount Glowar hill, 17 Mount Keen hill, 24 Muchalls, bum of, 245^ of, 253 Muir, Alexander, of Lt Muirton, remarkable Sf Murray, l^y Keitb, 2 Navigation, see Shippii Nether Benholme, bay Netberley house, 'iA3 Nethermill, distillery at INDEX. 869 Ogilvy, the Hon. Donald, of Clova, *26, 114 Ogilvy of Barras, 223 Ogilvy, George, defence of Dunnottar by, against Cromwell, 221, 312 Ogilvy, Mre, rescue of the Regalia by, 221 Ogilvy, Mrs, remarkable trial of, 57 Old Mortality, notice of, 222 Organic remains found at the Hog*s hole, 155 Ornithology of Dunnottar, 217 OiT, Captain, of Bridgeton, 279 Oscar Greenlandman, loss of the, 198 Paintings, ancient, remarkable discovery of, at Pittarrow, 81 Paldy, ancient parish of, 66 — fair, 67 Parochial schools, see Education Pauperism, see Poor Pcattie, bum of, 2 Phesdo house, 25, 87 — remarkable trees at, 78— -improvement of the estate of, 87 Pitbeadlay hill, 270 — ancient camp at, 282 Pittarrow house, remarkable discovery of old paintings at, 81 Plague, appearance of the, in Dunnot* tar, 222 Plantations, 5, 59, 77, 93, 131, 156, 161, 163, 171, 181, 197, 205, 219, 252, 259, 278, SaQ Ploughman's Society of Fordoun, the, 106 Poaching, former prevalence of, in Bervie, 11 Poor, management of the, 20, 49, 63, 107, 126, 151, 164, 168, 176, 188, 195, 211, 229, 243, 267, 295,308, 322, 358 Population returns, 10, 40, 58, 89, 119, 133, 161, 166, 173, 183, 191, 202, 223, 237, 253, 284, 302, 316, 348 Population, character and habits of the, 10, 42, 59, 91, 119. 137, 173, 183, 204, 224, 286, 303, 349 Portlethen, village and harbour of, 178, 184 Priest's cairn, the, 37 Produce, average annual, 14, 45, 99, 123, 142, 162, 167, 174, 209, 239. 290, 304, 317, 353 Quarries, granite, 193, 202, 206— lime- stone, 29, 289, 330— sandstone, 13, 29, 60, 89, 99, 226, 284, 289, 299, 319 Ramsay, Sir Alexander, of Balmain, 114, 279, 301 — improvements by, 121 Ramsay, Burnett, Esq. of Banchory, 238 Ramsay, Dr, of Barbadoes, bequest by, 124 Red Beard's well, 171 Redcraig, quarry of, 226 Rpdhall House, 25 Re-dykes, Roman camp at, 249 Regalia, rescue of the, from Cromwell, 221, 312 Reid, Dr Alexander, bequest by, 343 Reid, Dr George, bequest by, 358 Reid, Rev. James, 342 Reid. Rev. Lewis, 236 Reid, Rev. Robert, 342 Reid, Dr Thomas, the metaphysician, birth.place of. 236, 343 Remains, organic, found in Arbuthnott, 155 Rent, rates of, 11, 21, 43,*59,'92, 120, 1.38, 162, 173, 192, 205, 225, 238, 256, 287, 304, 316, 350 Riccarton house, 253 Roads and bridges, &c. 17, 45, 61, 104, 124. 145, 163, 175, 184, 193, 210, 228, 239, 261, 292, 306, 318, 356 Roadside, village of. 285, 292 Robertson, Miss, of Dalladies, 114 Rockhall, bayof, 271 Rocks, remarkable, at Stranatfaro, 245 Roman camp at Fordoun, 85 — at Re- dykes, 249 Roman Catholic seminary at Blair, 194 Rookery at Fetteresso Castle, 246 Rose, Rev. Peter, 249 Ruddiman, Thomas, the grammarian, 131 Rural economy, see Agriculture St Arnty's Kill, 314 St Cyrus, parish of, 269 — origin of its name, ib — its extent, &c. 270 — his- tory and land- owners of, 279 — its po- pulation, 284 — improvements in, since 1791, 296— -village of, 291,292 St Fettick's, ancient church of, 200 St James' well, 28 St John's hill, tumulus on, 315 well, 299 St Palladius, residence of, 25— ancient parish of, 66— chapel of, ib. 80 St Temanus, history of, 323 Salmon, see Fisheries Salt, manufactory of, in Nigg, 209 Savings' banks, 48, 106, 126, 164, 168, 188. 194, 243. 263, 295, 308 Schools, see Education Scoltie hill, 232 Scott, J. Fitzmaurice, 56, 279 Scott, James, of Brotherton, 56 Scott, J. R., of Stone of Morphy, 279 Scott, Sir Walter, 202 Scott, Mrs, of Benholme, 56 Scottish Regalia, secredng of the, in I Dunnottar, 221 370 KINCARDINESHIRE. Sea-greens, village aiid harbour of, 271 Sea-^^'ure, use of, as manure in Nigg,206 Seal, destruction of salmon by the, 207 —former abundance of the, in Dun* nottor,217 Shand of Amhall, improvements b7,122 Shanks, Alexander, bequest by, 358 Shanks, Miss, bequest by, 296 Shanks, Mrs, bequest by, 151 Sheep, see Live- Stock Shiach bum, the, 170 Shipping belonging to Bcrvie, 15 — to Johnshaven, 60 — to Stonehaven, 227 Sibbald, Dr David, 15S— Rev. Dr, 159 — Rev. John, ib. Silver, George, Esq., of Netherley, 253 Sketraw, fishing village of, 260, 262 Smith, James, bequest by, 124 Smuggling, former prevalence of, in Ber- vie, 11 Snndon hill, 270 Snuff-boxes, manufactory of, in Law- rencekirk, 144 Societies, friendly, 19,63, 106, 150, 168, 188,211,267,295,307 Sod kirk, the, at Newhall, 265 Sootywells, cairn at, 38 Spinning mills in Fetteresso, 26 Stevens, Mr, of Broadlands, bequest by, 268 Stewart, Rev. Patrick, 319 Stone memorial, at Mondynes, 86 Stone weapons foundin Arbuthnott, 161 Stone of Clochnabane, the, 232 Stone of Morphy, the, 281 — salmon fish- ery 6f, 224, 229 Stonehaven, bay of, 214 — town of, ib — new town of, 244, 262 — buildings of, 223— trade, shipping, &c., 227 — its harbour, ib. 228— its history, 229 Strachuii, parish of, 231 — origin of its name, &c. 231 — its history, 235 — land-ownei-s in, 236 — its ]>opulation« 237— valley of, 232, 233 Strachan of Thornton, family of, 301 Strachan, Rev. James, 319 Strachan, Rev. John, 2;)6 Straituu of Lauriston, family of, 283 Straiton, T. G., of Fiddes, 313 Stranathro, fishing village of, 260, 262 — arched rocks at, 245 Strath Fenella, 66— hill of, 24 Straton, Mr Grahame, of Kirkside, 279 Straton, Sir Joseph, bequest by, 294, 296 Strauchane, Sir A., remarkable trial of,57 Stuart, Sir John, 118 — improvements by. 122 Swellhead, improvements on, 192 Syblwddc of Kair, family of, 158 Symmers, Mr, of Cults, 181 'Diflliour, Magnus, tombstone to, 222r Tangleha*, village of, 275 Taylor, Robert, Esq. 301 Teeswater cow, introduction of tb, b Barclay of Ury, 258 Teman, origin of the name of, .32:} Thomson of Banchory.plantations bv,l>l Thornton castle, 25, 302 Tilwhilly, castle of, 338, 348— limestocf quarries at, 330 Todhead, the, 310 TollohiU, the, 178 Tombstones, ancient, in Dunnottar, 2£ Torry hill, 196— pier, 199— village o:. 203,208 Toucks hill, 213 Townhead, village of, 355— stone Ibt. tie axe found at, 161 Traditions in Fordoun, 79 TuUoch, Druidical remains at, 37 — stone -coffins found at, 38 Tullos, plantations on the bill of, 107 Tumuli in Banchory Devenick, 182— iii Fetteresso, 250 Upper TuUocb, stone -coffin found at.«^7 Urns, ancient, found at Arbuthnott, IbO — ^in Fetteresso, 251 — in Fordoun.SJ. — in Garvock, 99 — in KinnefiT, 315 Ury House, 252 Valentine, Mr, bequest by, 124 Volunteers, gallantry of the, in Ber\ie. i» Wages, rates of, 12, 43, 94 .95, 120,1 i'J. 162, 167, 183, 192,238, 287, 3l(i, 8:i) Wallace,capturcof Dunnottiir b v,22U.2J I Watson, Mr, of Ardo, 181 Weapons, stone, found in the Hog'> boli-, 161 Weavers' society of Fordoun, iho. liKJ Wellington bridge, 210 West Mathers, salmon fishery of, 2Si) Whig's vault at Dunnottar, the, 221 Whisky, exportation of, from Sionth.i- ven, 227 Whistleberry castle, ruins oT, 314 Whitecraig, sandstone quarries at, 2S4, 289 Whitehill, village of 285 Whiterigs house, 90 Winds, peculiarities of, in Benbolmc, .V2 Wishart, George, birth-place of. 2.>, 81 Wood of Balbegno, family of, 1 16 Woodburn den, 23 Woods, see Plantations Woodston, plantations on, 270 — salmon fisheries of, 289 — hill, 270— sami- stone quarnes at, 89, 289 Woodton, improvements on the e^tate of, 122 Yews, remarkable, at Crathes castle, 3iW Young, Dr William, of Faw>ido, 314 Zoology, 3, 30, 76, 114. 180, 190, 199, 217, 233, 246, 276, 300, 333 PRINTED BY JOHN' STARK, OLD ASSEMBLY CLOSE, EDINBURGH. iimiiii— ..— ■■"^■565- 357 • S4 HS ■ v.ll Tb.e .new...e.ta.Uciti.cAl account of SootlK OZ3078 a