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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I ■ * N THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. VOL. XIIL THE NEW STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND. BY THE MINISTERS OF THE RESPECTIVE PARISHES, UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF A COMMITTEE OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE SONS AND DAUGHTERS OF THE CLERGY. VOL. XIII. BANPT-EL6IK-NAIBN. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. MDCCCXLV. GO BANFF. CONTENTS ABBRLOUR, ALVA, BANFF, BOH ARM, BOINDIB, BOTRIPHNIE, CABRACH, CULLEN, DESKFORD, FORDYCB, FORGLBN, OAMRIE, 6ARTLT, GRANGE, GLASS, . INVERAVEN, INVBRKEITHNEV, KEITH, KIRKMICHAEL, MARNOCH, MORTLArn, ORDIQUHILL, . RATHYBN, ROTHIBMAY. PAGE 110 144 1 355 220 209 196 313 63 178 83 271 95 213 203 123 211 388 296 382 103 79 245 199 ^7 T* /-^ - r^ O.J. jliy^ PARISH OF BANFF. PRESBYTERY OF FORDYCE, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. FRANCIS WILLIAM GRANT, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name.'-flv some ancient writings, the name of the town is given in each of the following ways, — Bainiffe, Boineffe, BainfFe, Banife, thus, most probably, drawing its origin from the word Boyn, the name of a district in which Banff is situated. Boi/n (found in older writings under all the different orthographies of Boynd, Boyne, Boynde, Boin, Bouyn, Buyne, Buyn, Boyen,) is apparently the Gaelic word Buinne, a stream ; and the district appears to have received its name from a stream passing through it, now called Burn of Boyne. On the bank of this stream, near its entrance in-* to the sea, is the ancient castle of Boyne ; and the neighbouring parish of Boyndie was formerly called Inverboynde or Inverboin- dy, t. e. mouth of Boyn. Boyndie m pronounced Beendie or Bee^ nt>,— -resembling, in this respect, the Gaelic word, more than its present orthography would seem to indicate. The sound of y oc- curring in the word Banff^ has probably originated from nothing more than a peculiarity of pronunciation, — as Murray is found to have been, at some former periods, spelled Murreff; Strathisla^ Strathileff; Bailiary, Bailiareff. Extent, Botmdaries. — The greatest length of the parish is about 6^ miles, its greateat breadth, which is nearly in the middle, about 2 miles. Its superficial extent is probably below 9 square miles. As indicated by the measures now given, it is in shape long and narrow, but with a bend, the inner side of which is towards the east : the inland extremity tapering to a point exactly like a leaf. It lies longitudinally from N. E. to S. W. The parish is bounded on the north by the sea of the Moray Frith. The river Doveran, for a distance of about a mile and a half from its entrance into the sea, forms the eastern boundary. On the opposite side of the river, up to a rivulet fidling into it about * Drawn up, in the indispocition of the Minister, by Alexander Smith, M. A., au- thor of the « Philosophy of Morals.*" BANFF. A 2 BANFFSHIRE. half a mile from the sea, is the parish of Gamrie ; above the rivu- let is the parish of King Edward. From the point where it ceases to join the river, the parish of Banff is bounded, to its most souther- ly extension, by the parish of Alva; then, for a very small distance, by Marnoch ; — and, from that to the sea, by the parish of Boyn- die, from which it is, in part at least, divided by the bum of that name. Topographical Appearances, — In the lower end of the parish, the ground rises in the centre to an elevation of from 200 to 300 feet above the level of the sea, forming an eminence called the Gal- lowhill,* a prolongation of which stretches southerly, (but gradual- ly descending, with a sweep,) concave towards the east In the up- per part of the parish, there are one or two eminences exceeding the Grallowhill in height, but, being less raised above the surface of the adjoining lower grounds, (there considerably higher than the le- vel of the coast,) they present merely the appearance of slight swel- lings, and the surface there is altogether of the most uninteresting character. On the east side, the Gallowhill slopes down into a fine plain or meadow, of about a mile and a-half long, enclosed within a circular bend of the river. On the north side, the slope being more gradual, necessarily makes a more abrupt termination as it approaches the sea, and the shore consists, in the parts more adja- cent to. the river mouth, of precipitous rocky banks overhanging the beach ; more towards the west, there is left between the abrupt descent and the sea, a fine plain or links. On its western side, again, the Gallowhill declines gradually, but with occasional knolls and undulations, towards the burn of Boyndie. Near the town and harbour, low rocks stretch out into the sea from the beach; more to the west, and adjoining the mouth of the burn of Boyndie, is a sandy bay called Boyndie Bay.. About mid- way between the extremes of the coast boundary, a rocky promon- tory is cleft in the middle into a sort of recess, (called the Elf Kirk,) about six or seven yards deep, and two yards broad, having perpendicular sides of rock to a considerable height. The recess has, however, rather the appearance of being scooped out by the action of the sea, than formed by the tearing asunder of its sides. ^ti?^ and Scenery. — The river Doveran takes its rise in the pa- rish of Cabrach, just on the confines between the counties of Aber- deen and Banff. Its source is 27 milesf due south of the mouth * Anciently the place of execution. f These distances (all rcciconed by the straight line) are taken, somewhat loosely, from the scale on Irvine Ross's map. BANFF. 3 of the Spey, which is 22 miles west of Banflf — thus making the ge- neral course of the Doveran to be nearly north-east, and the dis- tance from its source to its mouth 35 miles. But its course is far from a straight one. Thus, from Rothiemay to where it approaches Turriff, a distance of eleven miles, its course is, though with many meanderings, from west to east From that point to Banff (9 miles) its course is from south to north. Nearly a mile above the point where, passing from between the parishes of Alva and King Edward, the Doveran first touches the parish of Banff, it enters, with a sud- den turn, into a rocky gorge, whose precipitous sides crowned with wood are here joined by a semicircular stone arch. From this, the view stretches, above, into the open country, boimded by the hill of Alva ; below, it is closed by a succession of naked rocks and steep wooded banks, among which the stream is seen to lose itself. The grounds on the margin of the river continue abrupt and pre- cipitous, for nearly a mile farther down, when they gradually re- cede, opening out into a fine valley, round the eastern side of which the river takes a wide sweep, enclosing the plain on which Duff House is situated. Opposite to this plain, on the eastern side of the river, the ground is cut by the rivulet already mentioned, issu- ing frx)m a woody ravine. Above, is a fine declivity, crowned on the top, and fringed along the water's edge, with wood ; its sur&ce diver- sified with breaks and swellings, and adorned with patches and rows of trees. Below, rises a green hill, presenting to the river and sea shore, a face of considerable height and steepness. The road from Edin- burgh and Aberdeen winds roimd the verge of its southern inclina- tion ; and brings the traveller arriving in that direction, upon a pros- pect of rather uncommon attraction. On the extremity of the seaward slope of the hill, where it stretches out into a point skirting the bay, stands the town of Macduff. Just where the bend of the river com« mences, rises, on the western side, a high abrupt bank ; on the sum- mit of which, emerging from the gloom of a thicket, is a Gothic mausoleum, (the burying place of the Fife fiimily) — near to which, on the verge of the bank, stands a funereal urn, containing bones dug up on the spot, of old the cemetery of a Carmelite monaste- ry. A little above, on the same side, is a remarkable round hill, which tradition represents as being artificial and the work of pe- nance, and which, now, crowned with a small summer-house or tem- ple, forms a striking accessory to the beauty of the scene. In one or two places, small islands, covered with wood, separate the stream of the river into branches ; and its whole course between the two 4 BANFFSHIRE. bridges of Banff and Alva, (a distance of two miles — ^all compre^ bended in Lord Fife's park,) * affords a succession of beautiful or romantic scenes ; though even, perhaps, as it is, the ^^ capabilities'' of the ground have not received full justice : the walks not being always led with sufficient skill to catch the finest points of view, nor the necessary openings for the same purpose left in the wood. The breadth of the river where it washes this parish does not, perhaps, in any place, exceed 130 yards. Its depth is very un- equal, and liable to great fluctuations from shifting masses of sand anjl gravel. In some places, it runs in shallow streams ; in others there are pools of 10 or 12 feet, or even of greater depth. Under the arch of the bridge of Alva, where the stream is forcibly confin- ed, it is said to be of 15 fathoms depth. On some late occasions, the river, especially when aided by high tides and northerly winds, has overflowed the low part of the town, and occasioned much mischief and inconvenience. In 1799, in 1829, and in 1835, such inundations occurred, with a less considerable one between the two latter periods. On these occa- sions, there have been five or six feet of water in some of the streets, the inhabitants being rescued from their houses by boats. In 1829, three horses of the mail-coach were drowned, in attempting to pass through the Market-square. Sprinffs. — The parish is well supplied with springs, and water may be found in most places by digging. In general, the water is slightly impregnated with carbonate of iron. There is a spring perceptibly chalybeate to the taste, about half a mile west of the town; and a very strong chalybeate (of great use as a tonic) about a mile farther west, in the parish of Boyndie. Geology and Mineralogy, \ — The general direction of the strata within this parish is about from north-east to south-west ; and the parish being narrow, and running in a direction parallel to that of the strata, and including only within its range a limited number of beds of rock, affords but few remarkable geological features. The prevailing rocks are clay-slate and graywacke, although an intermixture of various other seams of rock is frequently met with. From the river mouth for about half a-mile, as far westward as * A high degree of liberality is shown by die Noble proprietor In the freedom granted to the public, of walking in his grounds. •f- For the section on Geology and other valuable assistance, the compiler has to ac* knowledge his obligations to James Christie, Esq. solicitor. BANFF. 5 Boyndie bay, a ted of clay*slate is found reposing on graywacke ; the latter, at different points, protruding through the clay*slate, and rising, adjacent to the harbour, to the height of about forty feet. The clay-slate is found resting on the graywacke in a conform- able position, and following its windings in thin strata as far as they can be seen, till dipping or covered again by the soil or other beds of sand and shingle resting upon them. The elevation of the strata is different at different points. Where it is in conjunction with the graywacke, it may be at an elevation of from 60"" to 80^, and gradually declining to a less angle of elevation as it recedes from the graywacke and approaches the surface of the bed of clay- slate. The clay-slate and graywacke at their junction alternate with each other in thin veins for a small space, and are intersper- sed occasionally with thin veins of graywacke slate. A little to the westward of the rock called the Elf Kirk, at low water-mark, a small portion of the old red sandstone formation makes its appearance, and seems, to the eastward, to be in conjunction with the graywacke. Above the old, rests a thin stratum of the new red sandstone ; but neither appear again at any other point within the parish. Adja* cent to the harbour, thin veins of quartz, in a variety of ramifica- tions, run through the graywacke. Around these veins the gray- wacke is changed to a brown, as if the heat of the quartz, poured in a liquid state into the crack, had changed its colour. The thickness of these quartz veins, in some places, may be about a foot, decreasing in size, in the different ramifications, till they totally disappear. In general, the colour of the graywacke is chang- ed, in a greater or less degree, at all points where the veins of quartz are found. Towards the western side of the parish, there is a bed of mica- slate of a fine grain, resting on secondary gneiss, which is in con- junction, near Whitehills (in the parish of Boyndie) with the gray- wacke, on which it appears to be reposing. This bed affords many specimens of what is termed undulated mica-slate, and is travers- ed, farther to the westward, by thin veins of lime, which, below the flood-maric of the sea, is perforated with different kinds of pho- las, which pierce the vein till obstructed by a vein of graywacke slate, or some other of the siliceous rocks. This bed soon enters the pa- rish of Boyndie, passing to the south-westward near Blair-shin- noch. The only point where granite appears, is at a place called Cairn of Ord, the most south-westerly part of the parish. There, on a 6 BANFFSHIRE. piece of rising ground, the granite comes to the surface. In one part of the bed, the granite is excellent ; but in other parts, at the same point, it passes into secondary granite, or syenite, in which the quartz is either entirely wanting, or only found in very small quantities. The felspar is white and small-grained, and appears quite free from iron or any other colouring matter. Hence it re- tains its beautiful white colour, without being changed by the ac- tion of the atmosphere ; and, on that account, has been much esteemed for building. This rock passes into gneiss and coarse mica-slate, which ap- pears at different points a little to the eastward, but which has never been employed for any useful purpose. Various beds of sand, shingle, and clay, of different depths at different points, cover these strata; but none of them appear worthy of any remark, unless in so far as regards a bed of lias clay, which is found in patches at different points within the parish. This bed is of very considerable extent, stretching over a surface of more than twenty square miles. Belemnites and ammonites are found in it at all places where it has been wrought. It has long been wrought at Blackpots, a little to the westward of the boundary of this parish, for bricks and tiles, and also within the parish adjacent to the town, for the same purposes ; and the be- leranite and ammonite have been found there in great abund- ance, as well as various other shells peculiar to that formation. There are no hornblende rocks in sihi within the parish, but there is abundance of rolled blocks of that mineral scattered over the surface, as well as of hypersthene and augite. Rolled blocks of granite, having the felspar red, are also found. Porphyritic horn- stone in water-worn nodules is also found on the moors and along the sea-beach. Alluvial deposits are very scanty, being mostly confined to a few patches along the line of the Doveran. The soils are extremely varied, partaking in some measure of the nature of the rocks on which they severally repose ; being, on the slate rock, of a clayey and soft nature, and very fertile. Meteorology, — The climate is singularly changeable and capri- cious. At no time can a continuance of any particular sort of weather be in the least depended on. Winter is often compara- tively warm, and summer cold. In 1831, the difference between the temperature on the 24th June at half-past eight at night, and the 11th December at the same hour, was only 5^ In BANFF. ] 832,* in like manner, the thermometer stood so low as 50 on the 6th July ; so high as 49^ on the 2dd January,— -on both occa- sions at half-past eight in the evening. May and June are general- ly characterized by severe droughts, and piercing northerly and easterly winds. The trees are scarcely in full leaf at midsummer; about which time, very often storms arise that blacken and wither their foliage. The steadiest and most pleasant weather is gene- rally in August and September. The following meteorological tables for the year 1832, are the result of observations taken under the direction of the Banff Sci- entific Institution. Ba&omktbr. THEEMOBfXna. £ngh€sU LowcBt. Mean nighett. Ixmeat, Mean i t 1 " ' ^ ofthe ( ^ t t A , qfthe Morn, Even. Morn, Even, Month, Mom, Even, Mom, Even, Month, Jan. 30.4 30.2 29.1 29.2 39.7 50. 49.5 30. 27.3 39.6 Feb. 80.5 ao.4 3a8 3a8 39.9 62. 60. 34.4 33.8 39.7 Mar. ^.3 30.3 33.8 3a8 39.6 49. 4a3 36. 33.6 4Ud Apr. 30.6 30.6 39.8 39.3 30. 66.9 64. 41. 40. 47.2 May, 30.A 30.5 39.3 39.3 39. 68. 69. 43. 41. 49.4 June, 3a3 30.3 39. 39.3 39.8 66. 66. 49. 49. 66.8 July, 30.4 8a4 39.6 39.6 30. 68. 66. 52. 60. 67.7 Aug. 30.8 30.3 39.4 39.3 39.8 67.6 66. 61. 48. 69.6 Sept. 30.4 30.6 39.6 39.6 39.9 63. 68. 49. 48. 64.4 Oct. 30.5 30.4 39.0 39.1 i9.8 69. 67. 40. 43. 60.6 Nov. 30.4 30.4 38.7 38.9 29.6 4a 47. 31. 36. 41.3 Dec. 30.3 30.3 29.1 3a7 39.6 44. 43. 33. 33. 38. (The observations were taken at half-past nine a. m., and half- past eight p. M.) Winds akd Raik. IntAea qf N. N.E. E, S,E. S, S, W, W. N, W. Rain. January, 6 \ 10 21 IR 3 3 0.78 February, 1 2 35 16 3 1 0.2 March, - 3 5 16 33 11 6 1.04 April, 7 5 3 11 17 5 6 6 3. May, - 19 10 1 6 6 1 15 5 1.26 June, 6 4 6 14 8 2 10 11 3.67 July, - 18 3 1 6 3 14 11 12 1.25 August, 13 4 3 6 13 7 10 7 3.60 September, 3 4 16 4 36 7 2.10 October, - 18 38 14 3 2.44 November, 2 1 26 2L 1 9 1.8 December, I 1 9 39 11 11 2.33 32.36 It is somewhat rema[rkable, that, notwithstanding the cold nortfiem exposure of Banff, and the general variableness of the cli- * These years have not been selected for this singularity, which is probably not peculiar to them, but as being the only years of which a register of the weather is to be had. 8 BANFFSHIRE. mate,— cold and hot, dry and damp, succeeding each other ith the greatest rapidity and irregularity, — the town is not only subject to no peculiar complaints, nor to a peculiar severity of. any com- plaints, but is in every respect, and in a high degree, healthy. What one would least expect in such a climate, pulmonary com- plaints are both rare, and of a gentle type when they do occur. Consumption is far from frequent Hooping-cough is only found in a mild form. Patients in the latter complaint are often brought to this neighbourhood from some distance ; and9 in the opinion of some, the locality is favourable to their recovery, in a degree be- yond what the mere change of air (known to be always beneficial in this disorder) can sufficiently account for. Zoology.* — !• Mammalia. — This section of natural history does not seem to require any particular notice ; the animals compre- hended under it, in this parish, being such only as are common throughout the counties of Aberdeen, Banff, and Moray. It may, however, be remarked, that of late years several instances have oc- curred of the hedgehog (Erijiaceus Europmin dam in this parish. White eye, or castoneous duck (Nyroca kitcopthalmot,J a very rare visitant. 12 BANFFSHIRE. lemot, {Cephas ffrylky here called the testie,) may often be seen in the bay. The arctic skua ( Cataractesparasiticus, ) Black-back- ed gull (Lotus marinus.) Herring gull (Lams ofyentatusy here called the pewel, from its cry.) Common gull {Lams canus.) Kit- tiwake (Larus rissoy provincially kittyy) one of the sea fowl found in greatest abundance on the Gamrie rocks. Common tern or sea swallow, (Sterna hirundoy provincially /nA/arroc^,) not resident in this parish, but may occasionally be seen on its way to flat and sandy coasts, its usual places of abode. III. Fishes. — The sea lamprey (Petromyzon. marinusj has been occasionally caught. It is termed the lamper eel. Common dog-fish (Spinax acanthiosyj caught in immense quantities dur- ing the herring season, and sold by the cart-load for manure to the ground. The thornback skate (Rata clavata.J The common skate (Raia batis,) Sturgeon (Acipenser sturio.) A sturgeon, about 5 feet in length, was caught in the bay in the summer of 1833. Salmon (Salmo salar,) Bull-trout (Salmo eriax and 5a/- mo hucho.) The bull-trout occurs occasionally in the Doveran. Sea-trout {Sahno tmtta) found in great numbers. Finncick (SaU mo albtis^) also found in great numbers, and by the most expe- rienced judges regarded as a species perfectly distinct from any other of the genus Salmo. Common burn-trout (Salmo farioJ) Herring (Clupea harenffus;) taken in great quantities from about the middle of July to the middle of September. Gar fish, sea- needle or sea-pike, (Behne vulgaris.) Minnow (Leuciscus phoxi" ntis.) hump~­ cock-pBdley (Ci/doptems lumpus.) Commenced (Morhtia vulgaris.) Haddock (Morhua aglefinus,) Whitehills, a fishing village in the vicinity, is famous for its smoked or yellow haddocks. These by many are reckoned equal, if not superior, to the celebrated Finnon haddocks. Ling (Molva vulgaris^) not so frequent as the cod and haddock. Whiting (Merlangus vulgaris.) Coal fish (Merlangus carbonarius.) The young in their least state are called gerrachsy afterwards /M> Land-oumersi'^The principal landholders at present are, the Earl of Fife, Earl of Sei^eld, and Sir Robert Abercromby of Birk* enbog, grandson, by the mother's side, of the last Lord Banff. To a comparatiyely late period, the town seems to have been a very insignificant place, little more than a fishing village, an ap- pendage to the monastery and castle. The streets were not paved before 1551 ; and, at the beginning of the succeeding century, few houses besides Lord Airlie's, Lord Banff's, and the Laird of Auch- medden's houses, were slated. The harbour was formerly within the river.* Historical Events. — The town has never been connected with any historical event of importance, but some visitations to which it was subjectedin the troublous times of old, have no doubt been reckoned of sufficient importance by the inhabitants. Spalding relates that, in March or April 1644, " There went down to Banff the lairds of Gight, Newtown, and Ardlogie, with a party of forty horse and mus- keteers, brave gentlemen. They took in the town, without contradic- tion, meddled with the keys of the tolbooth, took free quarters, and plundered all the arms they could get, buff-coats, pikes, swords, carabines, pistols, yea, and money also. They took frae Alexan- * The followiog effort of ** the Tision and the ftcultr divine,** is the production of no leas famous a person than Dr Arthur Johnstoun, being one of his ** Epigrams upon MCveraU of the Royall burghs in ihit kingdom ; as may hejbund in hia poems printed at Middle- Burgh, 1642. Trantlaied into English by I. B/* (elsewhere more fully designed, '* Mr John Barclay, person <^ Cruden.**) Bahff near the Ocean dotb thy self confess 1 n Bidk then Trica, or Hypctpe less : Yet art ackn(^ledg*d by the n^^ftotfriii^ lands To be their Ref^ni and the Boyue commands : Nor comet nor pastures tranting are to thee. Nor stately ships which do lanch forth to sea, lliou art adorned by a temple^great. And by the Muses and AstretCs Seat, A place is near which was t^Jkld untill Our ancestors did raise it to an hiU, Hither the sea flows up to Diveron'ajlood, A stately castle also on it stood, A warlickfirt, its rubbish yet appears, The rest's consura*d by time, which all things wears. The buildings which joyn to the mercat-placct The Parian pillars which uphold them grace : Strong for d^ence and specious to the sights In them doth dwell a noble anciefit knight : A vertuotts people doth inhabite tftee. And this, O Hamff ! thy greatest praise must b.'« BANFF. B 18 BANFFSHIRE. der Winchester, one of the baillies, 700 merks, whilk he had as one of the collectors of the taxations and loan-silver of Banff ; and siklike took frae him 400 merks of his own gear ; and frae Shand in Down, they plundered some monies. They caused their baillies (for Dr Douglas, their provost, had fled,) and townsmen, subscribe and swear the band, denying the last covenant, and ob- liging them to follow the king and his deputies, in his service, as ye have before. They took also frae George Geddes, another of the said four collectors, 500 merks of taxation and loan -silver ; and Gight keeped all the monies." The upshot of this transaction, so far as ^^ Gight" was concern- ed, is told in the following words : from which we gather that the good laird's purposes had been sorely misinterpreted by a censo- rious world. It is to be feared that even Baillie Winchester him- self may have been vexed with some ungenerous suspicions. " Now the parliament goes on against Sir George Gordon of Gight, and John Gordon, his brother^ who was also had over with him to Edinburgh. He is accused upon divers matters, but de- nies all ; he is accused upon the plundering of Banff, whilk he de- nied, except some monies he received in borrowing upon promise of restitution. It is referred to his oath ; he depones conform, and subscribes his deposition ; they craftily summoned over witnesses out of Banff, to prove him perjured, and thereby guilty of death ; at last his process is continued to the 8th of January 1645, that the parliament should sit down, through whilk delay he escaped prison." In 1645 the Marquis of Montrose seems to have bethought himself of negotiating a loan among the capitalists of Banff — doubtless on the same sort of terms, as^o interest and security, as erewhile in use with that eminent financier the laird of Gight. ** Thereafter he marches to Banff, plunders the same pitifully, no merchant's goods nor gear left ; they saw no man on the street but was stripped naked to the skin. Some two or three worthless houses were burnt, but no blood shed, and so they left Banff."* The visitation of the laird of Gight and the other " brave gen- tlemen" seems to have been mere child's play to this. There is yet extant a ^^ humble supplication of the distresst burgh of Banff," made ^' Unto the Honourable and High Court of Parlia- ment," in 1647, and which " Humbly sheweth — That for our zea- lous affection, adherence, and concurrence to the covenant, and * Spalding. BANFF. 19 extending our utmost powers for prosecuting the ends of that same, we have not only spent ane great part of our means in keep- ing of the dyets that were ever in the north, as we were desyrit be those who were authorized to require us yearly, but likewise at last our haill means, both horses, nolt, deaths, corn, and merchant guids with our buiths, none whereof having been gotten removit, were all spolizit and away taken be James Graham, and his most cruel, unnatural, and merciless associates, in the month of March 1645 — our plenishing of timber all burnt, with some of the houses in our toun, so that nothing was left unto us except the bare walls of the houses ; and thereafter, when we were in small and mean con- dition, we were striving to live thereafter be the assistance of our well affected friends and countrymen, there did still fall upon us, ever as they had occasion to be in the country, and never was we free either of Ihem, in special the name of Gordon Harthill, Lod- wiek Lindsay, or Captain Mortimer, or otherways we were not free of our awn forces, the one coming in upon us, as the others were removit, even untill this day, as is notourly known, &c." " So that now our condition is so miserable that we have nothing where- by either to labour our land, or use our trade, and dare not any of us frequent or haunt any burgess by reason of our debts restand be us for the guids that were taken from us, for fear of the ward« ing of our persons." — '' And now our kirk, tolbuith, scholl, ferry- boat, and all being demolisht and broken doun, we have no kind of subsistence neither for ourselis to live, neither to repair these common works." The supplication, after stating that the burgh had debts of nearly 9000 merks, adds — " All the haill foresaid sums having been spent upon commissers to the General Assemblies and Parliaments for outering of our proportion of our levies to England, and for the expenses of mayn guards and Watches when General- Major Middle ton. Lieutenant- Colonel Hew Montgomery, Lieutenant- Colonel John Home, Colonel Robert Montgomerv, and Lockhart, and the foot regiments belonging to the Earl of Lowthean, and Lairds of Lawers and Buchanan, were at seve- ral occasions quartered in our town, and sundry sums of money taken from us be several officers, to hold us free of quartering of horses when our corns were growing on the ground, being even threatned whether they had orders or not, with plundering of our houses, and destroying of our comes." In the concluding peti- tion for relief, a shrewd hint is given how to lay the saddle on the right horse, thus: ** And that your Honours will give us warrant 20 BANFFSHIRE. from this Parliament to be reparit thereof out of the first end of any sums shall be exactit, either be fineing or borrowing, from any of these within our awn schyre, or about our awn toun, who have been actually airt and part, or personally assistant to the away taking of our said means, or any part thereof, in this bygan tyme, and quha one or all of them are partly lying in our toun in a worse disposition nor ever they were of before." The copy is indorsed " Supplicatione, Toun of Banff Bodies 1647."" The petitioners obtained a grant of their own excise as a means of relief. The Duke of Cumberland's troops passed through Banff on the 10th November 1746, on their way to Culloden. The only ex- ploits by which they signalized their visit were, the destruction of the Episcopal chapel, and the execution, or rather murder, of a poor man named Alexander Kinnaird, (from Culvie, in the parish of Marnoch.) Being found with a stick notched, or seen notch- ing it, in a way supposed to take account of the boats passing the river with troops, he was taken for a spy, and immediately hanged on a tree, near the site of the present chief hotel.* The last warlike visitation that befel the town was in the year 1759, when Thurot, a French commodore, appeared off the coast, with intentions which were at once conjectured to bode no aug- mentation of the coitimon good. The Provost, wisely considering this an emergency in which the united wisdom of the community should be called to exercise itself in the most solemn mode known or in use, forthwith convened a head court of the burgh. Here, however, dumb consternation was found to prevail— every one look* ing unutterable things on his neighbour. Luckily, in this prostra- tion of the faculties of the " whole heritors, feuars, burgesses, and other inhabitants liable to stent and taxation," who composed the court, there was one person capable of forming a determination, and this, as became his high dignity, was the Provost. His opi- nion being anxiously called for, was given with instant promptitude* in favour of — running away ! — A somewhat less decisive course, however, found favour in the eyes of one of the bailies, namely, that an endeavour should be made to compound with the foe for a certain sum ; but to this the Provost objected, that, as such a sum • A friend of the compiler's, who had lately occasion to inspect the town's records, has remarked it as a curious circumstance, that there is not a syllable to be found in them which could indicate that the country was not, at that period, in a state of the most profound calm ; and shrewdly conjectures, that the magistrates had, with the characteristic caution of the nation, purposely avoided committing themselves by any written expression of opinion, which might stand in the way of their joining the party that should eventually prevail. BANFF. 21 as would be accepted could not be immediately raised, hostages would inevitably be required — and who was to be thought worthy of this distinction ? This difficulty appeared to the court a mere bagatelle. " The Provost" — was at once shouted from all quarters ; to the chief-magistrate, as of right, the honour in question was tendered by acclamation ; but, by that dignitary, most resolutely declined, and cordially offered to the bailie, out of whose proposal the occasion for conferring it had originated. Luckily in the course of the deliberations, or at least before the enemy had op- portunity to secure any contributions, a means of deliverance more efiectual than any which burghal wisdom had succeeded in devis« ing, arose in the shape of a severe storm, which compelled the marauder to take his departure, leaving his anchors behind him for a memorandum, — some of which, it is said, were lately found. Subsequently to this, the idea seems to have occurred, that a few eighteen and twenty-four pound guns, planted on the heights above the harbour, might facilitate any negociations, for which occasion might chance to arise, with visitors of this description ; and accord- ingly the town expended the sum of L. 400 (for the interest of which, by the way, we are assessed to this day,) in constructing a battery, guns being furnished by government, and certain of the citizens trained to work them. The battery was dismounted of its guns at the peace ; and we have perhaps reason to reckon our- selves as safe without an enemy as with our guns. Petsons ofnote. — Only two persons of any note have been con- nected with this parish ; and their respective histories present some curious points of contrast and resemblance. James Sharp, the famous Archbishop of St Andrews, was born in Banff Castle in May 1613. His father (son of David Sharp, a merchant in Aberdeen,) was Sheriff-clerk of Banff- shire ; his mother a daughter of the laird of Kininvie. He studied at Aberdeen, and gave early proofs of superior talents. He afterwards visited the English universities, where he formed an acquaintance with several eminent divines. After his education was completed, he was, by the interest of the Earl of Rothes, to whom he was related, elected a Professor of Philosophy in St An- drews. He was, at a subsequent period, appointed Professor of Divinity in the same University ; and was also, at one time, mini- ster of Craill, in Fifeshire, an office which he is said to have dis- charged with diligence, fidelity, and kindness. In the course of 22 BANFFSHTRE. the religious and political disputes of his times, he was sent on a mission to Oliver Cromwell, which he executed with such appa- rent skill as to draw from the shrewd Protector the remark, that *' this gentleman might well, according to a Scottish phrase, be de- nominated Sliarp of that Hk,** The succeeding events and tragi- cal termination of his life are matter of general history. A letter from his son Sir William Sharp of Stonyhill, to Sir James Baird at Banff, describing the circumstances of the archbishop's murder, will be found in the former Statistical Account, Volume xx, p. 373. James Macpherson was an illegitimate branch of the family of Invereshie in Inverness-shire. His mother was a gipsy. He was reared at his father's house until the death of the latter, when he was taken under his mother's charge, and acquired the habits and pursuits of the race to which she belonged. He was remarkable not only for strength and beauty of person, but for the degree of talent which he displayed for certain mental accomplishments, for the cultivation of which his mode of life might seem to have af- forded little opportunity. I am not aware that any of his poetical productions are known to exist except his Lament ; but he seems to have been celebrated, during his lifetime, for his skill on the violin. It is said, too, that his conduct often afforded evidence of his being imbued with those feelings of generosity and pity which the fine arts are supposed to generate ; and it does not appear that any cruel or atrocious act was ever laid to his charge. After se- veral escapes from justice, to which he had made himself obnoxious by his lawless habits, he was eventually apprehended by the Laird of Braco and some of his followers at a Keith market : Braco him- self being the first to seize upon him. So desperate, however, is said to have been his resistance, aided by one Peter Roy, that it WPS only by blankets being thrown over his head from the windows above, that his numerous assailants could obtain any advantage over him. . He was thus compelled to fly ; and seeking to reach the gable of the church, parrying the attack of his enemies by the way, he fell over a grave-stone, when he was secured, and lodged in the jail of Banff. His sword is yet in the possession of Lord Fife (Braco's descendant,) at Duff House, and is a weapon of such weight as only a most powerful man could wield. M^Pherson was brought to trial along with James Gordon and Peter and Donald Brown, before the Sheriff of Banff, on the 7th November BANFF. 23 1700. A claim was put in on behalf of the Laird of Grant for re- pledging the two Browns, as being his vassals, and subject to his jurisdiction ; and on this claim, and on some preliminary objec- tions urged by the prisoners' counsel, an argument ensued of con- siderable length, and apparently by no means wanting in legal knowledge or acuteness. In an interlocutor, the Sheriff ^^ sustains himself judge, notwithstanding the offer to repledge, in respect to the answer thereto, as being knoune habit and repute wagabonds, soroners, and Egiptians; and repellsall the rest of the defences and replyes, in respect of the answer, (except that of robberie, which he does not sustain himself judge in ;) and finds the libel relevant as to the rest of the articles, of being knoune habit and repute to be Egiptians and wagabonds, and keeping ye mercats in yr ordinarie manner of thieving and purse^cutting, or guiltie of the rest of the crimes of theft, and masterfull bangstree and oppres- sion, to infer the punishment lybelled, and admitts the same to the knowledge of ane assyze." After the jury were impannelled "the Sheriff" (so it is in the record) " ordains the pannels for the sa- tisfaction of the assizers to rehearse the Lord's prayer,'' &c — but it is not stated how far the prisoners either did or could afford this "satisfaction." Twenty-one witnesses were then examined, four- teen of whom were able to sign their depositions. Most of them depone, that the pannels were habit and repute Egyptians, and that these Egyptians went about armed in bands ; some adding, that they spoke a language which the deponents did not understand, and " which was not Irish." But otherwise few well-defined or very serious charges appear in evidence against the accused indi- vidually.* The evidence being heard, the jury, of which James * As presenting a curious picture of the manners of the time and district, I have thought it worth while to transcribe all the material parts of the evidence. ^* The assisers craving Mr John Scot; minister at Diple, to be examined upon what wes con- tained in the libell, and that yr were payt offered him for what skaith he sustained in manner libelled, deponed, that at St Rufius fair wes a year yr wes 40 libs stohie firom him, and he going in pursuit of the taker yrof at Couper ]Milne*s tent, he wes interrupted by Peter Brown, who took him by the breastt while the woman who tooke the money threw herself on her face on the floor, and (as he heard) delivered to the woman yt keeped the tent ane black purse such as his wes, and which may be yet proven. But immediately yrafter Peter Broune, knowing the money wes convoyed of, came civilie and craved pardon, and offered the woman should be dackered, and made a sham kind of dackering after the money wes gone, and yt this day James Grant of Elcheis offered repayt of the 40 libs if he should not appear agt Peter Broune at this tyme; and this is truth as he shall ansr. to God. (Signed) John Scott. ^* Compeared John Shand in Maislie, aged 40 or yrby, married, purged ut sujrrat and interrogat, deponed, that at St Kuffus fair wes nync years, yr came three women and took possne of his kill, and he being at work he sent word to his wife to put ym 24 BANFFSHIRE. Gordon of Ardmellie was chancellor, gave in a verdict finding the pannels to be ^^ fyUed, culpable, and convick" of the crimes lybel- ot^t but they would not, and told that Peter Broune wes coming to take up quarters with them, and that he came and stayed yr with bis company for a month, and took nothing but peats from him, and yt yr wes sixteen of them in number, and that Peter Broune went sometymes to Ekhies and played on the viol ; and deponed that they coft milk and cheese with yr oune money, and no more but ane 1^ of mutttm^ which his wife saw them buy, and knowes not yt M^Pherson wes yr, but yt he wes ane night in his house at yt tyme, and drank with the rest and danced all night, and de- pones, that the door wes made open, but knowes not what way, and depones that they were sometimes in Jocksleyes, in kills, but knowes not how many of them were yr, nor how long they stayed. (Signed) John Shand.** Lachlan M^Phenon, in Delmanny, depones — ** That he was pnt when the chest was sealled, but the seals wes not rufled, but he heard that they had taken out the back of the chest, and put it in again.** — ^^heard Isobel Gall (one of the gipsies) would have been sent oJBTand come weel loadene with money." (This deposition, and some parts of the others, cannot be fully understood for want of the indictment, which is lost.) Patrick Reid, tacksman of the excise, " On the 7th of Septer 1698, he happened to be at Keith, and saw about the number of twenty-seavene men in armes, with a piper, and, as he heard* Peter Broune was on the head of them, and M'Pheraon on the rier, it being on the Saturday after St Ruflfus fair, and now depones he knew Peter Broune wes on yr head, and that James Robertson told him that they were these called the Egiptians.** John Eraser in Cuperhill— *< One day they (the Egyptians) being in Keith, and as they went home to Hillockhead, yr came a boy to him, and told him that his cott was broken, so he went up to see, and fimd it was so, and after telling of his sheep he missed one, so the next morning a woman neer by told him that the Egiptians had taken his sheep, and he went and dackered yr house, and could not find it, but saw some holes yrin that did not look weel, and after direct inquirie he went to the corn- yard, and yr found some of the Egiptians with bkxKlie pocks, his spainiall dog being with him, found the intrails of the wedder near to that place, in ane muir ; at last Alexr. Phyn of Achanasie, under whom they resided at yt time, came to the said John Eraser, and comuned with him anent payt. of his wedder, and did accord inglie pay him for the same, or at least promised, and further told him that he bad granted the favour of yt house to Patrick Broune, and declaired unless he were payed they sbouki not reside any longer in yt place, but declares that he did not see any of the pannals yr ; and that is truth, &c." Archbald Grant in Maynes of Achluncart,^*' Some Brounes and oyrs came and took possne of some pairt of Auchluncart, and that he dispossessed them, and that he heard a rumor of Patrick Broune*s having Orton*s cloak, and that yr wes a man in Achluncart that had a bile, whom M *Pherson took in hand to cure, and took away two nuiirs from the man, and pretended yr was a paction betwixt the man and him, and keeped one of the mairs, and the deponent took the oyr from him.** George Ogilvie in KeHh,— " hes seen boyes in mercatr yt were called yr ser- vants." William Robertson — " sead about twelive men with a pjrper, come into Keith at St Ruffus fair wes two year, whereof the pannals were a pairt,** — ** and that M'Pherson came to his house and spilt his ale, and stobbed the bed seeking the deponent, and that be wes forced to flie to Kinminintie*s, who is one of the assysers, who knowes the truth, for refuge, for whom Kinminintie purchased a protectione firom my Lord Seafield, and a warrand to apprehend M*Pherson.'* Patrick Grant in Suter Croh — ** hes seen ordinarily 5 or 6 men together in armes, whereof Peter Broune and M'Pherson were a pairt**—" hes seen little boys with them, yt were thought to be yr purse-cutters*' — " and that the pannalls are said to be- of mahfifna, and that he heard that Edintore gott his money again, and that con- trair to his desire James M'Pherson took possne of his chamber, and was forced to put oyrs out of yr room for them.** Peter Duncan in Pitlurg— " that he bought a white plaid and payed yrfor, and 4 BANFF. 25 led — whereupon the Sheriff pronounced the following sentence: ^^Forsaemeikleasyou, James M^Phersonand James Gordon^pan- nals, are found guilty, by ane verdict of ane assyse, to be knoune, holden and repute, to be Egiptians and vagabonds, and oppressors of his matie's free lieges, in ane bangstrie manner, and going up and doune the country armed, and keeping the mercats in ane hostile manner ; and that you are thieves, and receptors of thieves, and that you are ol pessima fama : Therefore, the Shireff-depute of Banff, and I, in his name, adjudges and decernes you, the sds James M^Pherson and James Gordon to be taken to the cross of Banff, from the tolbooth yrof, where you now lye, and yr upon ane gibbet to be erected, to be hanged by the neck to the death, by the hand of the comone executioner, upon Friday nixt, being the 16 Never instant, being a publick weeklie mercat* day, betwixt the houres of two and three in the afternoon, and, in the meantyme, de- clairs their haill movele goods and gear to be escheat and inbrought to the fiscal!, for his matie's interest ; and recomends this sentence to be seen put in executioune by the magistrats of Banff. (Signed) Nicolas Dunbar. ^^ And farther, the Sheriff-depute ordains ye three young rogues, now in prison, that this day yr ears be crept, publiclie scourged throw the toune of Banff, and burnt upon the cheek by the executioner, and banished this shyre for ever, under paine of death. (Signed) " Nicolas Dunbab." two of James M*Pherson*8 men came to bis house and brolci? up his pantry door and took out the plaide,and James M*Phersoncame yrafter, and said that his house was broken, and alledged the deponent had his goods, and threatened to carry him to the toune of £lgin, and to put him in the pitt yr, and a while yrafter he came and took the deponent and carried him a good piece from his house, and then let him goe. '* Alexander Young in Whiteley— " that he was informed that James M*Pherson and Jonathan Grant stole his oxen with some oyrs, which he sould prove if he were putt to it, and that James Robertson in the Maynes of AUanbuy did search after the. oxen, and that James M*Pherson threatened them for alledging that he wes one of the steallers, and came to his house with Peter Broune and sevrall oyrs of yr number, till they forced James Robertson to give them ten dollars, which the deponent de- clairs James Robertson wes craiving from him as being injured upon bis account, and that Peter Broune and James M*Pherson offered to — (word unknown,) the oxen for two score of dollars.'* Thomas i n Jocksleys— " that the Egyptians took possessne of yr kill in Jocksleys, they being whiles of men and women about 24 in number, and that Peter Broune and James M*Pherson came sometimes yr, and also Donald Broune." Thomas Milne in Jocksleys—** that the Egyptians, among whom were the pan- nals, took possne of his house, and stole his peats and kaill, and that sometymes they i^cre twentie in number, and stayed 3 or 4 days yr at one tyme, and forced his neigh- bors to give them some fire weshells.** John Sellar in Jocksley»— >** that the pannals took ane kill at yr oune hand, and that they feared yr women, and that they were armed, and that they took yr kaill, and missed sheep after tlicy were gone," &c. 2t) BANFFSUIRK. The most extraordinary part of the transaction is, that the guilt or innocence of the *^ three young rogues'' seems to have been thought a matter not worth inquiring about. There is no appear- ance whatever of their having been named in the indictment, or produced in court, or of any endeavour to identify them or charge them with a crime. The mere fact of their being in prison, the good Sheriff seems to have thought '^ relevant to infer the pains of law." Very possibly, however, the " young rogues" may have got substantial, though not formal, justice. The two Browns were sentenced, on the 21st February follow- ing, to be hanged on the 2d April. It appears, however, that Mcpherson alone of the four was executed. Probably Gordon was pardoned. The Browns are thought to have escaped. M^Pher- son performed at the foot of the gallows, the ** Rant" and Pibroch of his own composition, and then made offer of his violin to any one who would receive it as a remembrance of him. The gift being declined, he broke the violin, and threw the fragments into the grave prepared for his body. The story of M^Pherson's being executed before the time spe- cified in the sentence, in order to prevent his being benefited by an expected reprieve, is discredited.* Antiquities. — The parish is almost wholly destitute of any re- mains of antiquity. Two cells of the Carmelite monastery (men- tioned as existing at the time of the last Statistical Account) have for several years been removed, and given place to modern houses. Not far from the site of these, a small vaulted chamber, supposed to have been a sleeping cell, now affords accommodation to the boiler of a steam-engine employed at the foundery. Some arches, apparently parts of similar cells, yet exist behind the inn called the Royal Oak ; and persons alive till a late period remembered of there having been a continuous line of such cells between the two points now indicated. This range of cells seems to have terminat- ed the buildings of the monastery to the east, unless that an hos- pital, of which there is a tradition as existing about the site of the * Very little tradition of M*Pberson remains in this the scene of his death. Se- veral of the above particulars I owe to a notice in the New Monthly Magazine, Vol. i., and a note to ^* M'Pherson's lament" in the Kttrick Shepherd's edition of Bums. One very old man informs me of being told by his grandfather, who was one of the guards at M*Pher8on*s execution, that the verses commonly circulated as spoken by M'Fherson on that occasion were really those uttered by him. A few of them that were repeated by my informant, corresponded most (if I rightly recollect) with the first set given by the Ettrick Shepherd.— The execution took place on the GaUowhill. BANFF. 27 present bede-house, may have formed one of its appurtenances. The yards or garden grounds of the monastery, with its chapels and other dependencies, are supposed to have extended beyond the present southern limits of the town, and as far as the small rem- nants of the " Lodging" of the Earl of Airly in Duff House kit- chen garden. The precise time when this religious house was first established here is uncertain. It is supposed, on what authority I know not, to have been as early as the time of Malcolm the Maiden, or even of Malcolm Canmore. The charter granted by Robert Bruce evidently implies that it had existed before, probably long before, the date of that instrument, since it goes merely to confirm ^^ Deo, beatse Marise virgini, et religiosis viris Fratribus de Monte Car- mele, capellam beatse Marise juxta villam de Banff, una cum solo ad eandem capellam pertinente, ad aedificandum ibidem Ecclesiam et aliis domes sui ordinis, et ad inhabitandum dom. locum cum fra- tribus ejusdem ordinis, prout a summa pontifice eiisdem fratribus specialiter est concessum ; prseterea damus et concedimus hac pre- senti carta nostra confirmationis, fratribus ibidem deo servienti- bus, et servituris, illam davatam terrse cum pertinentiis quae ad dictam capellam ante presentem coUationem nostram pertinere so- lebat, ad inveniendum panem vinum et ceram ad cultum domini ibidem devotius exercendum." It is not perfectly clear whether the chapel of the blessed Mary here mentioned was one on the present site of Lord Fife's mau- soleum, or the old church (formerly called St Mary's) on the bury- ing ground of the town, but more probably the latter. At the time of the Reformation, it is well known that many of the religious houses, foreseeing the difficulty of preserving their possessions, adopted the plan of feuing them out at a low considera- tion to powerful laymen ; and a ready chapman of this description seems to have presented himself to the Carmelite t>rethren in the person of Sir Walter Ogilvie of Dunlugas, — an individual who ap- pears to have been gifted with a rare turn for the acquisition of property.* In a charter dated 1544, the friars make over to Sir Walter the Dawhaugh and its pertinents, but reserve a certain space of ground (adjoining the site of Lord Fife's mausoleum,) * His tombstone, built into the old church wall, is one ofthe oldest monuments in the shurchyard. The wonder is, that he did not contrive to get all the churchyard to himself. 28 BANFFSUIRB. and the grant inak^s no mention of, and cannot be supposed to comprehend, the houses and gardens of the monastery in the town. Sir Walter, however, appears to have subsequently become pos- sessed of the whole, at least there is evidence of his descendants being soon after in possession ; ^nd these continued to hold the yards till a late period, parts of which, indeed, are still held by them, either in possession or as superiors.* Through these yards was formed, about the year 1770, the street called Bridge Street, now one of the principal thoroughfares of the town. The rest of the Carmelite lands, extending southward from the town, were suc- cessively conveyed (in 1630) to* Lord Airly, and (in 1690) to Lord Fife. The superiority and feu-duties, which, in the year 1617, had been gifted by James VI, to King's College, Aberdeen, were also bought up, in 1752, by Lord Fife. A few very old persons can yet remember some large massy ruins, standing on the space now occupied by the plainstones, cal- led the Towers. These have probably been originally a part of the. monastery, but are known to have been latterly a residence of the Lords Banff. In some old rights this building is styled a pa-- lace — a distinction it is supposed to have acquired in consequence of having been the temporary abode of certain of the Scottish kings, who, as appears from the date of some old charters, had visited the town. This building was demolished by General Monro, in August 1640, as is thus related in the History of the Gordons, (Vol. ii. p. 339,) " Monro having marched to Bamff, (as said is,) encamp- ed in Sir George Ogilvy, (afterward created by the King, Lord Bamff,) his garden, inclosed with excellent stone- walls, and plant- ed with the best fruit-trees then could be had. All of which they immediately hewed down, not leaving one fruit- tree, or barren, young or old, standing; and they dug up all the hedges by the root. They entirely demolished his house there, one of the state- liest and finest in the north, and carried away all the timber and iron work in it, leaving nothing standing but the ruinous walls. When this barbarous act was told the King ('tis reported) he said, as for the house, it mattered not much, money could build it up again in a short time ; but it was a cruel thing to destroy the gar- den, which many years could not repair." Spalding also speaks * The Magistrntcs of Banff pay a feu- duty for the site of the town -house to this day. BANFF. 29 of the destruction of ^^ the pleasant planting and fruitful young trees bravely growing within the laird of Banfifs orchard and gar- dens," and of his " stately house of Banff," as " pitiful to see !" The gardens were the yards of the monastery, already mentioned. The lands on which the sea-town now stands belonged to the chapel of the Holy Rood. This chapel is supposed to have stood on the Rose Crag (towards the present northern extremity of the castle-grounds ;) another supposition is, that it was on the site of the old churth.* The lands of this chaplainry were, in the year 1552, feued in perpetuity, by certain bailies and burgesses acting, as commissioners of the town, with the consent of Mr James Cur- rer or Currier, chaplain of the Holy Rood, to Sir Walter Ogilvy, then provost, for payment of forty shillings yearly to the chaplain. The moving causes for this conveyance are stated to be *^ ob aug- mentationem rentalis dictae capellanise Sancti Crucis de Banff pro perpetua sustentatione capellani ejusdem omni tempore affuturo fien. ob divini cultus venerationem et exhibitionem et ad extir- pandam heresim tamdiu eminentem ut omnis prorsum earum am- biguitas et recidat quod fieri nen poterit nisi interve- niente et propitio magno dei numine et cum proximorum procerum ac primatum orthodoxam fidem tenen. et servan. ac pre- cipue auxilio et defensioue nobilis viri Walteri Ogilvie de Dunlu- gas, militis et propositi nostri burgi de Banff, de nobis semper bene meriti, hinc igitur dedisse," &c. Two of the commissioners could not sign their names to the deed. From Sir Walter Ogilvie the lands were conveyed, along with the Carmelite lands, to the Laird of Braco; and, by him, in exchange for some lands near Duff House, to the town of Banff, to which they now afford a feu-duty. Another chapel (dedicated to St Thomas the Apostle) is sup- posed to have stood somewhere between the sites of the present parish church and St Andrew^s Chapel. Names still existing, St Ni- nian's, St Catherine's, &c. evince the once consecrated character of various localities in the town. It is known that the Knights- Templars anciently held property in the burgh, and a house is still remembered (standing in the wa- ter-path, at the south corner of the lane passing between it and the Castle Street,) which bore the iron cross, the usual token by * All existing notices regarding the chaplainry of the Holy Rood, and that on the site of the old church (whether the same, or diiferent, or how endowed) are confused and obscure. 30 BANFFSHIRE. which the fraternity marked their possessions. A short distance from the town is a place called Spittal mire^ supposed a corruption of Ao«- pitalmire^ perhaps from a house of that description belonging to the templars. It appears that when, on the abolition of the order of Knights St John, who succeeded the templars, their possessions were erected into a lordship in favour of Sir James Sandilands in 1563, many parts of these possessions were found to be so much scatter- ed, and let for such insignificant rents or feu-duties, as not to be worth the attention of the new proprietors ; and, in this way, pro- bably, the possessions of the templars in this town have passed at length into common burgage tenures. All that now remains of the ancient castle is a part of the outer wall and of the ditch. The house where Archbishop Sharp was born was pulled down about twenty years ago. One or two pieces of lettered freestone taken from it have been built into the church- yard wall, at the burial-ground of the Sharp family. The castle was a constabulary or lodging for the King when visiting this part of his dominions, and where he, or, in his ab- sence, the thane, or constable, or sheriff administered justice. These officers being named by the King, and moveable at pleasure, the castle seems always to have been public or royal property, until the Earl of Buchan, (who married, as formerly mentioned, Margaret Ogil vie of Auchterhouse,) was appointed hereditary thane or constable. From the Buchan family, the castle was conveyed to Robert Sharp, sheriff-clerk of Banff, elder brother of the famous archbishop, (the father, William Sharp, having had it before in feu.) The archbishop was murdered in 1679, and after Robert's death the castle descended to his brother's son, Sir William Sharp of Stony hill, who resigned it to Leslie of Kininvie, from whom it passed to the Earl of Findlater * — whose heir. Lord Seafield, still holds it Lord Seafield, it may be noted, was descended from the family of Auchterhouse, who formerly held the Castle. The old Castle of Inchdrewer, supposed to have been built about the time of James IV. or V., is still so entire as to be ha- bitable by the family of a tenant of Sir Robert Abercromby's. Its appearance possesses no peculiar feature of interest, and the only incident connected with it is the death of a Lord Banff who was burned in the year 1713, under some circumstances not very well explained. It is said that, having embraced the Roman Catholic * The office of Sheriff was resigned by the Earl of Buchan to Bairdof Auchmed- den, and by him to Ix>rd Findlater, who held it till the abolition of heritable juris- dictions. 3 BANFF. 81 religion, he had gone for some time to Ireland, engaged proba- bly in some of the intrigues then carrying on in behalf of the Pre- tender ; and it was suspected that the persons in whose charge he had left the Castle, having pillaged some of his valuable property, murdered him immediately after his return, and set his apartment on fire, for the sake of concealment. By some, it seems, the event was viewed as a judgment on his apostacy, and particularly with regard to some threats used by him, of burning the Protestants. This event might well have entitle4 the old castle to be haunted ; but I have never heard that it enjoys that reputation. A vaulted aisle of the old church still remains in the church- yard, and is a burying-place of the family of Lord Banff. Adjoining Lord Fife's mausoleum is a very curious ancient monu- ment, on which is represented the figure of an armed warrior recum- bent, vrith the inscription, ^< Hie jacet Johanes Duf, de Maldavat et Baldavi, obiit 2 Julii 1404," &c. This monument, with the ashes of the deceased (an ancestor of Lord Fife,) was brought from CuUen. Some years ago, in levelling a small hillock on Provost Cam'e- ron's farm of Poddocklaw, a stone coffin or case was found, inclos- ing a vase of baked earth, in which were some ashes and fragments of bones. In a tumulus dug into on a neighbouring farm, several of such vases were found, placed on a sort of stone bench, sup- ported on blocks. On this bench some of the vases were invert- ed, others had a flat stone on the top, the whole being covered over with earth. Within a few years also, in the course of digging the foundation of a new house 'on the high shore, at the foot of the Castlehill, a vessel was found containing a quantity of silver coins. They are about the size of sixpence, but very thin and greatly defaced, and covered with a green rust. Six of these coins (which the writer has seen) are in the possession of J. A. Cameron, Esq. Solicitor, — other six are in the museum of the Banff Institution. Of these coins one only presents a crowned head in profile, and the name Alexander is traceable round the edge. The obverse is quartered, in each quartering a star, and, around. Rex Scotorum is pretty vi- sible. The other eleven are ascertained to be of the coinage of Edward 11. of England. In a small plantation of Lord Fife's on the Gallow-hill is a tu- mulus, having some appearance of being an ancient sepulchre; but it has never been opened. Modem Buildings. — In the list of modern buildings, the first. 32 BANFFSHIRE. or rather the only one, as a piece of architecture, deserving men- tion, is Duff House, the splendid mansion of the Earl of Fife, — splendid as it is, still more so if the design were completed. It was built eighty or ninety years ago by William Lord Braco, after a design by Adams, the first of the celebrated architects of that name, at an expense of about L. 70,000. The style is purely Ro- man. The body of the house (for the wings have never yet been added) is of an oblong shape, and consists of four lofty stories. The first is a rustic basement, over which rise two stories adorn- ed with fluted pilasters, and an entablature of the style of the temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome. Over this entablature, which goes round the whole structure, there is an attic story, surmount- ed by a balustrade. The four comers of the building have pro- jections resembling towers, which break and vary the outline, and also rise to a greater height than the other parts of the attic story. These towers are adorned at the angles by an upper range of pi- lasters, with an entablature of the composite order, and are crown ed at top by domical roofs, on which octagonal pedestal chimneys are placed. Both the entrance and back &9ades have also central projections surmounted by pediments, on which the family arms are cut in bas-relief, which, with the appended achievements, fill the entire spaces of the face of the pediments. The entablature and capitals of the pilasters, as well as the smaller ornaments, are ex* quisitely carved, though some of these last, for what reason I know not, have been left unfinished. The back and front of the build- ing are precisely alike, except that the basement part of the pro- jection in front is occupied by an outer stair, of two circular as- cents, with carved stone balustrades. The principal entrance is thus on the second story. From an arcade below the landing- place of the outer stair there is an entrance to the servants' hall. Duff House, to be seen to advantage, requires to be beheld pretty near. There is too little variety of outline, and the colour of the material (freestone) is too dingy to strike at a distance. It is besides desirable that the eye should be diverted from the con- fused assemblage of chimneys and slated pavilions by which it is surmounted, which seem to create an incongruous mixture of the castellated and the classic styles. Seen so near as to discern the ela- borate ornaments, the appearance of Duff House is in the highest degree rich, graceful, and majestic. Duff House contains a large collection of paintings, many of which are interesting and valuable, either as specimens of art, or BANFF. 33 as portraits of celebrated characters, and examples of the costume of various ages and countries. Among the more excellent of the former dass may be enumerated a portrait, in perfect presenra* tion, of the Constable de Bourbon, by Titian. This has been al« lowed by the best judges, both in this country and on the conti- nent, to be one of the very finest specimens of the great Venetian colourist. A head of Charles I. by Vandyke, esteemed a most characteristic specimen of that master ; a portrait, three-quarters length, of Lord Strafford, and a fuU-length of Lady Herbert, both by Vandyke, and regarded as very fine ; a full length portrait of the 'present Earl of Fife by Raeburn; an original portrait of Mo- liere ; various portraits, chiefly of females, by Sir Peter Lely ; por- trait of Sir Godfrey Kneller by himself; portrait of Henderson, the Scottish preacher, by Jameson ; portrait of Mrs Abingdon by Sir Joshua Reynolds, esteemed a beautiful specimen of that roaster ; landscape by Ruysdael ; a flower-piece, beautifully co- loured, and esteemed a first rate specimen of art ; a candle-light scene, by Schalcken ; cattle-piece, by Cuyp ; dog and monkey, with still life, by Snyders ; a large landscape by Wynants ; a land- scape by Wouvermans ; an infant Christ by Murillo ; Virgin and child by Corregio ; philosopher and skull by Quintin Matsys, the blacksmith of Antwerp ; i^ea-piece by Backhuysen ; shepherd with his flock by Rosa da Tivoli ; landscape by Domenichino ; head of Charles L by Velasquez ; two specimens of the rare Spanish painter Cano ; a painting by Luca Giordani ; Ostade's mother by himself, and several other excellent specimens of the Flemish and Dutch school, &C. Among those of the second class may be no- ticed, portraits of most of the English kings, from Henry V. to George H., including a full-length of Henry VHL by Hol- bein, formerly in the possession of Sir Joshua Reynolds; portraits of Cromwell, Marlborough, Marshal Villars, Prince Eugene, Charles XIL, Peter the Great, John Duke of Argyle, small head of Ludovico Caracci,&c. Respectable strangers are readily admit- ted, at all times, to view this collection. Two years ago, a very handsome though small chapel was erect- ed for the Episcopal congregation. It is in the Gothic style. The west front, of dressed freestone, is flanked by two carved minarets, and otherwise chastely but tastefully ornamented. The inside is finished in an appropriate manner, and has a very pleas- ing effect. The chapel possesses a good organ. The parish church stands at the south side of the town, on a BANFF. C 34 BANFFSHIRE. highly advantageous site, being on a sort of platform projecting forward from the declivity on which the town is situated. In its outside appearance the church is perfectly plain. ^^ The spire'' (says the worthy writer of the old Statistical Account) ** still re- mains in an unfinished state, which gives the whole building a heavy and awkward appearance. It is intended, however, to re- sume the work next season." I regret to say that the same words are still descriptive of the position of affairs in this par- ticular, if, merely for ^* intended," we read ^^ no^ intended." An at- tempt was lately made to raise funds by subscription for erecting a spire, according to a very handsome design, furnished by Mr Robertson, architect, of Elgin, but this purpose has not as yet succeeded. The inside of the church is sparingly but very taste- fully decorated. The pulpit and galleries are of uncommon height ; and the whole character of the interior is in a high degree light, airy, and spacious. A few years ago the church was very handsomely fitted up (by subscription) for burning gas lights. In the interior of the church (though the parish burying-ground is not adjoining — the old church-yard* being still used for that pur- pose,) are four handsome monuments of marble, built into the walls. One of these is a very fine piece of sculpture by Bacon. It was erected, in addition to another in the cathedral church at Calcutta, by Sir David Octherlony and the army under his command, to the memory of Lieutenant Peter Liawtie (a native of Banff.) It re- presents a soldier leaning over a funeral vase in an attitude of 4eep grief. The figure and draperies are exquisitely carved. Of the other monuments, one is erected to the memory of the Rite Mr John Cruickshank, Rector of Banff Academy, by his former pupils ; another to the memory of the late Mr A. Gassy (elsewhere mentioned as a benefactor of the town) erected by sub- scription. The remaining monument is a private one. The town-house, built about forty years ago, is a very large, but entirely plain building, forming two sides of a square, with a spire rising from the external angle. The spire, which is much older than the house, is a sort of fluted cone, of very graceful proportions, rising from a square tower. The whole height of the spire is 100 feet The tower, spire, and front of the house are built of dressed sandstone. The house is of three very lofty * It may deserve mention Uiat the burying-ground afTords a fiivourable specimen, on a small scale, of what may be called church-yard gardening, being tastefully laid put, 9nd adorned nrith flowers and shrubs. BANFF. 35 stories* It contains a hall, two large drawing-rooms, Town-coun- cil Chamber, Sheriff-court Room, Town Chamberlain's and Sheriff Clerk's offices, and prisons. The staircase and landing-places are spacious. There is a Trades' Hall, mason lodges. Sec but neither these nor any of the other buildings in the parish are, as buildings, deserv- ing of any notice. It may be mentioned, however, that a few of the more considerable private houses lately built in the town have been designed with some degree of regard to architectural sym- metry and decoration, and present rather handsome fronts. Al- most every kind of building material is easily procured. Plain walls are generally built of a sort of soft blue slate. Window ri- bats, or whole fronts, are of dressed granite or sandstone. Bricks are also employed for slighter or more temporary purposes. III. — Population. The population of the parish, at different periods, has been as follows : In 1801 the population was d571 1811, 3603 1821, 3855 I8M, 87U Males in the town in 1881, - liS9 Females, 1706 Total in the town, S935 Males in the country, 360 Females, 416 776 Total, - 371 1 The decrease between 1821 and 1831 is ascribed, in the Go- vernment return, to absence of public works and emigration. The average of registered births for the last seven years is 62 ; of marriages, 25. There is no official register of deaths ; but, from a private list kept by the grave-digger, the average number of bu- rials, annually, in the church-yard of Banff, appears to be 55. Lord Fife is the only heritor that has a residence in the parish. Hb Lordship has been living constantly at Duff House for more than two years past. Perhaps it would be difficult to name more than one or two other persons of independent fortune in the parish. There are only three proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 or upwards. The writer can learn of only 1 insane person in the* parish, and 4 fatuous ; of none blind (from natural causes ;) nor of any deaf or dumb. Language. — Among the higher and better educated classes, the English language may be heard spoken in tolerable purity, both 36 BANFFSHIRE. as to idiom and pronunciation : there are few who cannot express diemseWes in English, still fewer who do not familiarly understand it when distinctly spoken. Unmixed Scotch is never to be heard* The most common dialect is a mixture of Scotch and English, the Scotch used being of the somewhat vicious kind, known, I believe, by the name of the Aberdeenshire. The Scotch, however, isgra^ . dually wearing out Every person remembers the frequent use, in former years, of terms and phrases that are now seldom to be heard but among the older and more secluded. Even, however, in what is called, by courtesy, speaking English, or using English words, there is often a sore lack of the genuine English pronun- ciation. The defect b not so much in the accentuation, as in the vowel and diphthongal sounds* Thus the three different sounds of the letter a mfar^fat^faultj are all given alike, as in^r. The sound of t, as in Aim, is made the same as e in A^r, — unless when some, flying from this Scylla of orthoepy, fall into the Charybdis of pronouncing it as if spelled heem. No difference is made be- tween the two sounds of o in pop and pope^ and the oa in broad, Rodj rode^ broad^ are all made to rhyme together. The long a (as in made) is pronounced like the English short e : fed B.nAfade are pronounced just alike. Unaccented vowels are generally lost, or sounded like the French e in k. Regular is pronounced reghr or regeler ; prelate, prelet ; absolute^ abseleU Even in the matter of pronunciation, however, there is a great and progressive im- provement. Character and Circumstances. — Generally speakii^, the intel- lectual, moral, and religious character of the people deserves to be favourably mentioned ; though, undoubtedly, anoong particular sections of the population, profligacy and vice is to be (bund pre- vailing in no inconsiderable degree. Perhaps vices of sensuality are more to be noted than those of injustice or inhumanity. Of poaching or smuggling there are scarcely any instances in the pa- rish. The people are also, in general, very cleanly in their habits. The poorer classes in the country subsist mostly on meal, milk, and vegetables, particularly potatoes, and kail, or colewort. Near- er the coast, fish may be easily had. Both in town, among the trading and labouring classes, and in the landward part of the parish, among the crofters and small farmers, there are a considerable number of persons, who, if not in absolutely destitute, are in very straitened circumstances ; and who, neither in regard to freedom from worldly anxiety, nor suf- BANFF. 37 fioiency of even the necessaries of existence, can properly be said to enjoy a reasonable portion of the comforts of life* Even among these, however, discontent with their lot is not a remarkable fea- ture — though (and particulariy in the town) the want of the whole- some excitement which a prosperous course of industry creates, is often sought to be supplied by that which is to be derived from the use of spirituous liquors. Nor is it probably too favourable a judgment to pass on human conduct, to say, that habits of in* ebriety are, at least, as often the effect as the cause — they are un- doubtedly both — of depressed worldly circumstances* It is supposed that firom 40 to 45 cases of illegitimate birth have occurred within the last three years. Amusements. — It can scarcely be said that the people of the middle or lower classes now devote any but a mere insignificant part of their time to what could properly be called amusement It would almost seem as if men had now outgrown the relish for amusement, or &id amusement in what was once the business of life. Even children seem indifferent to the sports and pursuits with which the children of former days appeared to be absorbed* There is now a harder competition for the means of livelihood — anxieties inconsistent with the pursuit of amusement have taken hold of men's minds* An improved state of the practical arts make» every pro- fession more difficult of acquisition, furnishes new occupation for ingenuity, new aims for mental activity, new subjects of emulation, — the diffusion of knowledge has created new desires, new ideas, new sources of excitement* From the increased diffusion of newspapers and cheap popular prints, a taste for reading has sprung up to a considerable extent Such works as Chambers's Journal are fre- quently bought by farm-servants and artisans* Newspapers are circulated as long as the texture of the paper holds together, or its colour can be distinguished from that of the printer's ink. The recent political excitements, indeed, whatever may be their good or evil tendencies otherwise, have doubtless tended to increase or create an appetite for knowledge : there being few political ques- tions that do not, at least indirectly, excite a curiosity, and lead to inquiries, touching a variety of extrinsic subjects in history, geo- graphy, statistics, arts, commerce, &c. A man who sets up for a politician finds occasion to learn a great many things besides politics. IV.— rlNDDSTRY* Agriculture, — The extent of cultivated land in the parish is 3778 imperial acres; of uncultivated and pasture lands, 1161 38 BANFFSHIRE. acres. Of the last mentioned, there are 215 acres (on the estate of Sir Robert Abercromby,) the improvement of which has been conditioned for. Some maintain that there is yet a quantity of waste land in the parish that might be profitably improved, others that cultivation is already over extended. There is no undivided common. The number of acres under wood is 223. * In the grounds of Duff House, which comprise most of the plant- ing in the parish, are to be found ash, elm, beech, plane, birch, lime, maple, oak, horse-chestnut, mountain-ash, and various species of firs. Here there seems to have been rather too little done as r^ards the affairs of thinning and pruning, &c. — (principally, it is alleged, fix>m an indisposition to diminish the shelter for the game,) and much of the wood is of very slender growth. What other planting is in the parish belongs to Lord Seafield, and consists mostly of firs ; but, from age and thinning together, may be described as rather verging to decay. Sir Robert Aber- cromby is at present in the intention of planting some belts and clumps on his property in the upper part of the parish, and about fifty imperial acres have been laid off for that purpose. About a mile from the town, is a very considerable nursery for plants of all kinds, suitable to the climate. Rent of Land. — The average rent of arable land in the parish may be stated at about 16s. per acre. It varies from 5s. to L. 2. * This statement is made up from the best existing data, namely, from accounts procured of the lands belonging to each proprietor in the paruh : but, as there have been, as regards the greater part, no late survey, its exact correctness cannot be war- ranted. The total amount which it furnishes is 5162 imperial acres ; and after making allowance for the space occupied by the town of Banff, roads, &c. the whole extent of the parish would fiill short of that stated in Robertson's map, viz. 63 12 acres. The map, however, includes in the parish of Banff a tract of perhaps 100 acres* on the river side, (from about the cruive dike to the bridge of Alva,) considered by the agent of LfOrd Fife, the proprietor, to be in the parish of Alva, and not included in the present computation — also a space, which may be guessed at 500 acres on this side of the bum of Boyndie, similarly stated, by the agents of Lord Seafield, the pro- prietor, to be in the parish of Boyndie. The boundaries of the two parishes are thus fixed in the decreet of disjunction 1635 : " Ye said parochine of Banff to have includit yairintill ye toune of Banff, with ye pendicles of ye samyn as it had of before, and to have adjoyned yairto out of ye said parochine of Inverboyndy ye landis of Ord, Inchdrower. with ye pendicles yrof ; the lands of Blairahinnoch, Kilbeuchlie, Paddocklaw, and Cullinorttis, ye whilk haill landis and parochine lyes on the eist side of the bume of Inverboyndy ; and the said parochine of Inverboindy to have includit yairin as the particular boundisofye parochine of the samyn, the haill lands lyand betwixt the bume of Boyne at the west, the burne of Inverboyndy at the east, the sea on the north, and the landis of park of Comcairn at the south pairtis." It seems the general understanding at present that, at least, the lands of Easter Baldavie and Raggal, with the plantations of Baldavic (all on this side of the burn of Boyndie,) belong to the parish of Boyndie-*and these lands are not Mpecifted, (un- less under the name of <* pendicles**) in the enumeration of those which compose the parish of Banff. 4 BANFF. 39 The average rent of grazing is at the rate of about L. 1, 15s. per ox or cow grazed, or 7b. per ewe or sheep. Wages. — The ordinary wages of farm-servants is from L. 4, 10s. to L. 6 half yearly. Farm-labourers, according to the length of the day and other circumstances, receive from 9d. to Is. 6d. per day; country wrights. Is. 4d. ; masons, 2s. 6d. : — all these rates with victuals. Prices. — Wool is sold at Is. 6d. to 2s. per pound of 22 oz. Other species of raw produce for home use are rarely bought or sold, being generally grown by each consumer for his own particular use. Rid- dles cost from 2s. 6d. to 4s., sieves ds. 6d., but these are now sel- dom used, most of the mills being furnished with sifters ; corn bas- kets (called blind sieves) Is. 6d. ; coarse wicker baskets for carry- ing weeds, peats, potatoes, &c Is. ; a sort of bass made of heather is sold for 2s. 6d. Mason work varies from L. 1, 5s. to L. 2 per rood. Carpenter's work for the various descriptions, as follows : Flooring and joisting from 3s. 6d. to 5s. 6d. per yard ; slate roofing, including rafters, from 5s. 9d. to 8s. 6d. per yard ; tile roofing, including rafters, from ds. 9d. to 4s. 9d. per yard; windows, from 2s. Sd. to 2s. 9d. per foot ; double lath partitions (with plaster) 2s. 6d. ; doors from I Os. to 18s: stairs 4s. 6d. to 10s. 6d. per yard. Live iS^ocA.— The parish is not a sheep district ; the small num- ber kept in it are mostly of the Cheviot breed. The breed of cattle is the result of various crosses, which do not appear to have tended much to its improvement; and they have occasioned the loss of a very good breed, formerly known by the name of the old Banffshire breed. Altogether, the parish is not conspicuous f6rits improve- ments in this department Perhaps, however, the now extensive use of bone manure, by which an increased quantity of winter keep is produced, may be the means of improving the breeds of cattle. At one period cattle was rather the staple produce of the district: lat- terly, it has become more a grain country. The plan of husban- dry in universal use is the rotation of crops for five, six, or seven years, the latter period being most common. Husbandry. — In the course of the last forty years, perhaps one- fifth of the present arable land in the parish has been brought into cultivation. Draining has also been effected to a very large extent. On one farm alone ( Blairshinnoch, in the occupation of Mr A. Milne,) 16,000 ells have been formed in the course of the last six years. 40 BANFFSHIRE. Still there is great room for improvement in this way — perhaps more in this than in any other way that could be mentioned. Some years ago a considerable improvement was effected by the straighting of the bum of Boyndie. The ordinary duration of lease is nineteen years. This, if not generally complained of, is by some considered to be of too short duration, in respect that, as farms may be generally supposed to be left, by outgoing tenants, in a somewhat impoverished condi- tion, the new entrants can scarcely have time, in a period of nine- teen years, to bring them properly into condition, so as to reap the benefit of their outlay before the termination of the lease. The greater part of the lands in the parish are enclosed and subdivided with substantial stone dikes ; and the farm-houses and offices good and sufficient — some of them superior to the genera- lity of farm accommodation, even in an improved district such as this parish. Any deficiency that exists in this respect may per- haps be owing to its being the more general practice in the dis- trict, that the tenants erect the farm accommodations, receiving an allowance at the end of their lease ; and the consequent induce- ment they have to lock up, in this way, as little of their capital as possible. Quarries. — ^The granite at Cairns of Ord (mentioned in the Geological section) is of excellent quality for building, and has been wrought for that purpose ; but, owing to its distance from the sea, not to such an extent as it would otherwise have been. The different species of rocks already described as existing in the pa- rish are also in some places quarried for building materials ; but (unless at the time when the new pier was constructing) there have never been any considerable operations in this way ; partly because the peculiar sort of stones afforded are not much prized for building, and partly because there is no great quantity of build- ing going on to require stones of any sort Fisheries. — All the different kinds of white fish used for food that are to be found in the sea adjoining the parish are fished for, and brought to market, but only by individual fishermen on their own account, and therefore not on any great scale. It is the opinion of some, however, that if the cod, ling, and turbot fishery were prosecuted in this parish on a scale of sufficient extent, it might soon become of importance. These fish are said to be very plentiful about twenty-five or thirty miles off the coast. Lobsters and crabs are sold in the local markets, and peri- BANFF. 41 winkles^ besides, have of late been sent to the London market to good account. There is also abundance of shrimps to be found, but they have never been fished for to any extent. The rent of the saknon-fishing in the river (Lord Fife, proprie- tor,) is L. 1600 a year. There are also bag-net fishings in the sea on each side of the river's mouth. That on the east side is Lord Fife's, and included in one tack with the river fishing. That on the west side is let by the town of Banff for L. 191 yearly ; but their right is called in question by Lord Fife, and at present the subject of litigation. The salmon are. sent by steam, either pickled or packed in ice, principally to the London market. The herring fishery on the east coast of Scotland was for many years almost exclusively confined to the coast of Caithness and Sutherland ; but about the year 1815, owing to the encouragement given by Government in the shape of bounties, together with the assistance of well qualified persons to superintend the cure and brand the herring barrels, the fishing of herrings was commenced on the coasts of Aberdeenshire, Banffshire, Morayshire, and Ross- shire. It was soon discovered that the herrings were of as good quality on the south side of the Murray Frith as on the north, and equally abundant ; and this trade, from a very small beginning^ has grown to be flourishing and extensive; and, though the boun- ties have been withdrawn, the herring fishery is still carried on with great spirit. The quantity cured in the district of the Banff Fishery Officer, which extends from Gardenstown to Portsoy, in favourable seasons, is about 30,000 barrels. Of this quantity, nearly one-half is ex- ported to Germany ; a considerable part is sent to London for the supply of the West India islands, and the remainder goes general- ly to Ireland. The following table exhibits the state of the herring fishery, as regards the port of ^on^ alone, for the last five years. 1831. 1833. 1838. 1834 1835. No. ofbaireLicured, - 1759 boats employed, - 14 ■ fishermen, - 56 —— women in curing and pAcklng, 41 coopers, - - 6 i»*-— eurers, - 5 About the year 1819, the number of Ijerring boats from the port of Banff was perhaps not short of 70. The decrease lat- terly I have never heard accounted for in any way that does not mainly resolve into mere matter of chance, or otherwise, by refe- rence to some of those unaccountable prejudices and superstitions 1959 1265 938 631 1& 18 22 8 64 72 88 32 46 48 60 21 6 6 8 4 5 5 6 4 42 BANFFSHIRE. which people connected with sea-faring employments are so apt to take up. Tlie two years preceding the last were indeed eminent- ly unsuccessful ; but any discouragement thence arising does not seem to have affected the district generally, as it has done this par- ticular port There is no doubt a want of space near the harbour for the erection of suitable premises ; but even the space that ex- ists is not now employed. The existence of a higher rate of shore dues at Banff than at some neighbouring ports is also stated to have a discouraging effect ; but still this cause does not operate in a higher degree now than formerly. Shipping. — The number of vessels now registered at Banff Cus- tom-house is as follows : No. of Ves»eU. Denomination, Tonnage, 1 Brig. 155 18 Schooners, 1567 48 Sloops, 2579 Total, 67 . 4S101 Of these 10 schooners (878 tons,) and 11 sloops (657 tons,) be- long to the port of Banff; the remainder belong to the creeks of Fraserburgh, Gardenstown, Macduff, Portsoy, Port-Gordon, and Garmouth, in the district of the port. The vessels of this and the neighbouring ports are generally employed in carrying grain, herrings, salmon, live cattle, and cured pork to London, and some other places in the south, and return with coals, groceries, &c &c. Some of them take occasional voyages to Sweden for iron and deals ; to Russia for hemp ; and Holland, for flax. They also in autumn go frequently to Ham- burgh with herrings, from whence they get cargoes of grain, wool, bark, hides, &c. to London, Hull, and the Frith of Forth. A great proportion of the herrings which are sent to the Prussian ports in the Baltic is shipped by Prussian vessels, because these vessels, having to return home at any rate, take them for a some- what lower freight, and the Prussian merchants who purchase the herrings frequently order them to be shipped by their own vessels. But British vessels are also employed in carrying herrings to the Baltic ; and, upon the whole, this part of the trade is pretty fairly divided between the ships of Britain and Prussia. There are four vessels (a schooner and three smacks) regularly engaged in the London trade, two in the Leith, and two princi- pally in the Aberdeen trade. The exporting of live-cattle to London was first tried, as a spe- culation, in 1826, and since that time has formed a regular branch BANFF. 43 of trade. During the year 1834, 440 head of live-cattle were sent to London by sea, besides 911 pigs, and 156 sheep and lambs. The exportation of grain from this port has increased in a very great degree during the last twenty years. In the course of the year 1834^ 29,790 quarters of oats were shipped at Banff, all, with a trifling exception, for London;* 1174 quarters of wheat, and 976 quarters of barley and bear, mostly for Leith and London } also a small quantity of oatmeal, pease, and potatoes. 194 bags of potato flour were shipped for Leith. Very few foreign vessels land at Banff harbour, though many come into neighbouring ports within the range of the custom-house of Banff. These are principally from Norway, with birch timber for herring barrels. In the year 1813 a Greenland whale fishing company was form- ed, and two vessels fitted out In the course of a year or two, how- ever, one of the vessels was wrecked in a storm soon after going out of the harbour ; the insurance was only recovered after a liti- gation ; and as, besides this discouragement, the vessels had been unlucky in their fisHings, and the price of oil was &lling, the con- cern was abandoned at a very serious loss to the partners. Banff is the principal station of a party of the coast guard. The commander's district extends from Speymouth to Rattrayhead. Their watch-house is at the battery. Manufactures. — There are premises on the high ground above the harbour, fitted, both by extent and supply of water, for carry- ing on the brewing trade on a large scale. Of late, however, the business has been little farther extended than to supply home con- sumption. It is stated that the demand for malt liquor is immense- ly reduced by the increased distillation of spirits. The brewery employs 9 or 10 persons. The foundery was established about nine years ago by Messrs Eraser. They execute every species of cast metal work, machi- nery, grates, ploughshares, &c &c. and to a very considerable ex- tent A blast fanners attached to the furnace is driven, and me- chanical power supplied for all departments of the work, by a steam engine of six horse power, constructed on the high pressure * In the list of places in the whole kingdom supplying the London market with grain, Banff ranks among the highest as regards amount ; but this is taking in the importations from all the ports from Fraserburgh to Garmouth, inclusive, vessels from which clear out at the custom-house of Banff. The totol quantity of grain ex- ported from Banff (including these other ports) in 1834, was 192,377 quarters of grain, and 660 tons of meal ; in 1835, 94,067 quarters of grain, and 962 tons of meaL 44 BANFFSHIRE. principle. This engine was wholly made by the Messrs Fraser, the proprietors^ There are about 10 persons employed at this establishment The distillery is at Mill of Banff^ about a mile from the town on the Huntly road. From 11,000 to 12,000 gallons of spirits at proof are produced here yearly. There are 6 or 8 persons em- ployed — ^generally about fifteen hours a day. There is a small manufactory of ropes and sails for home use. Ship-building is only carried on occasionally. A somewhat considerable thread and stocking manufactory, which was carried on here at the time of the last Statistical Account, was discontinued about twenty years aga The proprietors enjoy- ed a patent for a species of stocking-frame, but farther improye- ments in machinery enabled the English manufacturers to under- sell them. The thread manufactory was kept up for a consider- ably longer period ; but the increasing use of cotton instead ol thread was gradually lessening the demand for it. 'V.-— Parochial Economt. Toum. — The town of Banff consists of two parts, completely se- parated, of which the first (which may be called the body of the town)- lies partly on the lower extremity of the plain on the river side, already described, partly on the declirity ; the other part (cal- led the sea-town) on an elevated level, which generally terminates abruptly within a small distance of the sea, by which it is bound- ed. Seen from the low ground beyond the river, the sea-town ap- pears to stand on a long ridge, having the battery at its northern extremity. On a piece of table-land projecting midway from be- tween the town and seartown, stands the castle, nearly opposite the river mouth, and commanding an extensive and varied prospect, the sea, the town, and hill of Macduff, the sweep of the river and beautiful opposite slope, surmounted by the wood of Mountcoffer. The castle is a plain modern building with wings* The streets, though composed of houses of unequal size, are ge- nerally straight, and not deficient in width. The High Street, Castle Road, and a street in the sea-town terminating in the battery, form a continuous line from south to north, of above half a-mile in length. Within the last few years, many of the older houses have been pulled down and replaced by others ; and there is scarcely a building now remaining which would indicate the antiquity of the town. Some years ago it was proposed to form a new street to the south- 3 BANFF* 45 west of the town, entering from the Huntly road, and passing through to St Catherine Street ; but the scheme was abandoned from want of the concurrence of some of the proprietors in the proposed line* A gas-work was established by a joint-stock company in 1831. The quantity of gas consumed in the year ending May 15, 1854^ was 456,213 cubical feet ; in 1835, 463,547 cubical feet. In 1830, a new and very commodious market-place was laid out in a centrical part of the town, with complete accommodations of sheds, stalls, &c A few years ago, public baths were erected by a joint-stock com- pany. They are fitted up in a very convenient manner for hot^ cold, and shower baths. They are open every day in summer, and once or oftener a^week during the remainder of the year. Notwithstanding that about L. 1100 was laid out in the year 1810 for the coit^veyance of water into the town by pipes, the sup- ply in the summer season, in the public cisterns, is often extreme- ly deficient. On many premises, however, there are pump-wells. Means of Cammvmcation, — ^The post-office in the town of Banff is the only one in the parish ; but this office has three sub'^offices attached to it, at Aberchirder on the road to Huntly, and New Pitsligo and Brucklaw on the road to Peterhead ; also a penny post- office at Macduff. There are daily mails to and from Aberdeen and the south, to and from Inverness and the north, and to and from Peterhead ; also a direct mail three times a*week to and from Fra- serburgh, and the same to and from Huntly. The revenue of the post-office of Banff, stated at the period of the last Statistical Ac- count to be but L. 800, was, in 1829, (after deduction of dead and re-sent letters) L. 1284 ; since that year the revenue has been re- gularly decreasing, being for the present year (1835) ending 5th December, only L. 1131. A very considerable portion of the re- venue is derived from the correspondence with the northern parts of the continent, on account of the herring fishery. The length of the turnpike road passing through the parish in the line from Aberdeeen to Inverness, and extending from the west end of the bridge of Banff to a bridge across the bum of Boyndie, is (exclusive of a part which forms the High Street of the town) about two miles and a-half, perhaps a little more. The turnpike road from the harbour of Banff to a point on the south-eastern boundary of the parish (at the road leading to the farm of Wardend) when it enters into the parish of Alva, is also two miles and a-half. 46 BANFFSHIRE. There is a daily stage-coach to and from Aberdeen, and to and from Elgin ; and a daily mail-coach to and from Peterhead ; an open car also runs daily between Htmtly and Banff; a coach twice a-week between Keith and Banff; occasionally there have been others. AH the mails (except to Peterhead) are conveyed by gigs or foot-posts. The Doveran is passed, near the town, by a handsome and sub- stantial stone bridge of seven semicircular arches, having a free water-way of 142 yards length. The parapets and abutments are of freestone. The bridge was built at the expense of Government in 1779. The burn of Boyndie, on the west of the parish, is pas- sed by a stone bridge of two arches. Both these bridges are in complete repair. Lower down on the burn of Boyndie, and where it is crossed by the old road^ is another bridge of two arches. Along the whole line of the turnpike roads in the parish are sobslantial stone fences or hedges. Harbour. — The harbour of Banff is situated at the western ex- tremity of a circular bay, at the opposite extremity of which is the town and harbour of Macduff. The two extremities of the bay are rocky. The middle of it is a beach of sand and shingle cast up by the meeting of the river Doveran with the sea. The mouth of the river is sometimes at one, sometimes at another, part^of this beach, but is most commonly near the land, and along the roadway lead- ing from the town of Banff to the harbour. The old or inner harbour (completed in the year 1775) is a tri- angular space enclosed within two piers and the land, the entrance being at the exterior angle facing the N. N. E. In 1816, how- ever, a new pier and break-water covering the old entrance was con- structed to the north of the old harbour, and a basin formed in the intervening space» according to a plan furnished by the late Mr Tel- ford. The expense of these improvements amounted to about L. 18,000, one-half of which was furnished by Government out of the proceeds of the forfeited estates. Unfortunately the new basin was found not to be a safe haven, as was sufficiently proved by the circumstance of vessels being wrecked when faxrXy moored within it. It has since, too, been almost filled up with sand, an increase of which it has also been the means of creating in the old harbour. Still the new pier has been of considerable use in several respects. It prevents all swell and agitation in the old harbour, which is now perhaps the safest artificial haven in the Moray Frith. It also af- fords some additional facilities for bringing vessels in or out It is BANFF. 47 supposed by some that, by means of flood-gates, the new basin miglit yet be rendered a safe place for shipping. The present depth of water at the extremity of the new pier is, at low- water of spring tides, 4 feet 7 inches ; of neap-tides, 6 feet 1 1 inches. A vessel drawing 12 feet water can enter the new basin at high water of ordinary neap-tides ; one drawing 15 feet at spring- tides. This depth, however, is only towards the outer part of the basin, owing to the accumulation of sand farther in. A vessel can enter the old harbour at high water of ordinary neap-tides, if draw- ing 8 feet, spring-tides 10^ feet. A Morton's patent slip apparatus is now in the course of being laid dowQ at the harbour. Municipal State. — The circumstance, that William the Lion gave a toft and garden in the burgh of Banfi* to his chaplain Dou- glas, Bishop of Moray, in 1165, (similar gifts being made in Inver- ness, Nairn and CuUen, all royal burghs at this period,) makes it probable that Banff possessed the privileges of royalty before that time. Tradition makes these privileges to have been conferred by Malcolm Canmore. They were confirmed by Robert Bruce. Robert IL, in 1372, again confirmed them, together with such pri- vileges and liberties as were enjoyed by the town of Aberdeen. Farther confirmations were given by James VI. and Charles II. In the mimicipal government of the burgh, there has all along been this peculiarity, that the burgh taxes and assessments are im- posed, not by the magistrates and council, as is the usual practice in other burghs, but by the inhabitants assembled in head court. There is no regular police or night watch in the town. Two town Serjeants perform all the duties of police officers. Oflences against the peace are taken cognizance of by either the Sheriff, the Justices, or the magistrates, in their respective courts, to each of which is attached a separate procurator-fiscal of its own, whose duty it is to prosecute offenders. When the property of the town (in lands, fishings, &c.) is ba- lanced against its debts, the residue would appear to be rather in- considerable. The sum of L. 482, 9s. 1 Id. is raised annually, by assessment on the inhabitants, for the defraying of current expen- ses, as streets, water, lamps, &c. Banff, on the whole, can scarcely be pronounced a thriving place. It is not increasing either in size or population ; and probably few if any of the inhabitants are accumulating capital. Families seem to be dying away or becoming dispersed faster than new ones come 48 BANFFSHIRE. in their places. Yet few towns of its size present more attractions than Banff. It possesses both coast and inland scenery of a su- perior description; is particularly healthy; has excellent schools, variety of places of worship, abundant markets, regular and fre- quent posts, baths, literary institutions, society equal to what is ge- nerally to be found in a remote country town. No very good reason can be assigned for its want of prosperity, unless, perhaps, the de- ficiency of space about the town for manufacturing or commercial purposes, or for the erection of suburban villas. The town is hem- med in on two sides by great proprietors. On the one hand. Lord Fife is pushing us into the sea, on the other. Lord Seafield jams us close to the river; yet, to say the truth, there seems, little use Dfiade of even what space exists. A linen manufactory was lately projected, but failed. Indeed, most enterprizes of any extent that have ever been attempted in the town have turned out unfortunate. Ecclesiastical State. — The church was built in 1790, and isca- pable of containing 1500 persons. It is substantial and in com- plete repair. The average number of communicants is 700. The age of the manse is not very well known ; indeed it has been built at different times. Soon after the settlement of the present in- cumbent, in 1821, it was in contemplation to erect a new manse ; but the incumbent agreed to accept, instead, an annual allowance with the old manse. The glebe contains 7 acres or more, and at one time rented so much as L. 45, but now falls very consider- ably short of that value.* The stipend, about four years ago, was augmented to 18 chalders, half meal, half barley. A chapel in connexion with the Established Church has just been completed at the upper end of the parish, about half a mile from its extremity. The expense of its erection and that of a manse (together about L. 400) has been raised by church collec- tions and subscriptions of heritors and others. It accommodates, without galleries, 300 persons. All the sittings have been rented, and demands made for many more. The minister's living is de- rived from the seat rents, L.20 being added from the Royal Bounty. The number f of families composing the Roman Catholic con- * An arrangement has just been made, under which an act of Parliament is about to be applied for, to authorise the feuing of the glebe ; and the lower part of it is al- ready fixed upon as the site of the educational inftitutioD about to be erected by Mr Wilson's trustees. t The numerical statements regarding the diflferent congregations are only to be considered as furnishing a general idea, the accounts being, in some cases, mostly matter of gue. 50 BANFFSHIRE. there are monthly or weekly meetings held, and contributions made for religious purposes. The whole amount thus collected will probably not exceed L. 25 per annum/ The average amount of extraordinary collections in the parish church for the last five years, (after deduction, in each case, of a sum equal to an ordinary collection,) has been L. 25. About three-fifths of the amdlint has been devoted to charitable, the re- mainder to religious purposes. Education. — An academy was formed in 1786,* under the di- rections of Dr Chapman, formerly rector of the grammar school at Dumfries, and author of a work on Education of some character at that period. The classes are taught by a rector and two masters : Latin, Greek, and French by the rector ; writing and mathema- tics, together with book-keeping, geography, and navigation, by one of the masters ; English reading, elocution, and grammar, by the other. Drawing is also taught by a separate master. The expense^of education varies, of course, according to the number and description of branches in which each pupil takes lessons ; but the highest expense for a (principally) classical education, does not ordinarily exceed 12s. 6d. per quarter; for a trading education, 9s. 6d. ; an elementary, 6s. Course of book-keeping, L. 1, Is. ; na- vigation, 10s. 6d.; French, 10s. 6d. The number of boys attending the academy has, of late years, been about 150; of girls at separate hours, about 20. Each of the masters, besides the fees of his class, receives a certain fixed sum from the town. The rector also has the salary of parish schoolmaster. The academy has 16 bursaries, one of which (in the disposal of the Presbytery of Fordyce) is of the annual value of the interest of L. 600. The value of the other 15 is from L.2 to L.3,4s.t * There is evidence of there having been a grammar school at Banff, as far back as 1544. The charter (formerly mentioned) granted by the Carmelite brethren, to Sir Walter Ogilvie of Dunlugas, bears to be witnessed, among others, ^* Guliiermo Clerk, preceptore schols grammatices de Banff." In the year 15S5. Bishop Cunningham of Aberdeen granted a chdrter, confirmed by James VI. in 1592, assigning the tenths of the King^s rents of certain lands in the county, for the maintenance of grammar schools in Banff; the teacher to be appoint- ed by the Provost, Bailies, and Town Council of Banff, but the trial of his fitness to be with the Bishops of Aberdeen, or, failing them, the principal of King's Collrge* Aberdeen. These tenths amounted to L. 44, IDs. 6d. per annum ; but it does not appear that they have, up to a late period, or even ever been drawn. The charter, (but recently discovered,) has been printed, with some additional notices regarding the ancient state of the school. t Three of these were endowed by Bailie Winchester,— of whom, as formerly men- tioned, the Laird of Gigfat borrowed a trifle in 1644. BANFF. 51 There is a private uoendowed school in the town/ called the Commercial School, at which the number of boys attending as re- gular day- scholars, varies from 40 to 60 ; of other boys, at sepa- rate hours, from 1*5 to 20 ; of girls, at separate hours, about 30. Here the fee for reading and writing together is 4s. 6d. per quar- ter; for English reading and grammar, writing and arithmetic, to- gether, 6s. 6d. per quarter ; geography and higher mathema- tics, 7s. 6d. ; navigation, 10s. 6d. ; book-keeping, single, 7s. 6d., double, 15s. In 1804, Mr Alexander Pirie, merchant in Banff, left the sum of L. 1100 in trust to the town -council and kirk-session, for the maintenance (from the yearly interest) of a free school, — a feu in the sea*town, and an additional sum of L. 100, being at the same time assigned by him for the erection of a school and schoolmas- ter's house. The school is open to all poor children (able to read the catechism) whom the trustees may admit ; and instruction is given in reading, writing, arithmetic, and church music The usual number of scholars of late has been from 70 to 80. There are several unendowed boarding and day-schools for young ladies under the direction of highly accomplished teachers; the branches taught, and terms^ being such as are usual in other similar establishments. There is a female charity school, under the management of the parish minister and a committee of ladies. The salary of the teacher is made up from subscriptions, and a small annual payment from a charitable bequest. The number of girls generally attend- ing is from 50 to 60. They receive instruction in reading, writ- ing, sewing, and knitting. One penny a-week is paid by each scholar to assist in procuring school-books and stationery. The right of admitting scholars is vested in the subscribers. The exact number of persons in the parish who cannot read or write is not ascertained ; but after inquiries made among a great variety of persons, I feel warranted in saying, that, if there are any cases of this description, the number is altogether insignificant. This is sufficient evidence of the value attached to education by the people of the parish ; but matters having been always pretty much the same in this respect, there are no data, in the particular case, for calculating the effect produced on moral habits by in- creased facilities of instruction. Similar circumstances to those that created occasion for an addi* tional church in the upper part of the parish, make an additional 52 BANFFSHIRE. school in the same place to be also wanted. The want would be greater, but that there is, at present, a private school in the upper part of the parish of Boyndie, so near the boundary of this parish as to accommodate a part of the population of its middle and up* per districts. Literary Irutituiians. — A Literary Society was instituted in 1810, by five boys (the most advanced of whom had only obtained the standing of three sessions at College.) The institution originally embraced two objects, — the formation of a library, and meetings for delivery of essays and discussion of literary subjects. But the latter object was, after a time, necessarily abandoned, from the paucity of persons having resources for contributing to it. The library now contains above 2000 volumes. Connected with the Literary Society by a sort of federal union, is the reading-room, where have been usually taken in five or six of the principal quarterly and monthly periodicals, two daily Lon- don, and some Edinburgh and provincial newspapers. Some dif- ficulty, however, has been found of late in supporting the expense of this establishment, and its continuance seems somewhat doubtful* In 1828 was founded an institution for the cultivation of science^ and the discovery and encouragement of native talent. The in- stitution has occasionally held meetings for scientific discussions; but similar difficulties, as in the case of the Literary Society, have been felt in carrying this part of its plan into complete effect* Its conductors, however, have succeeded in collecting a museum of natural history, antiquities, and curiosities, which would do no discredit to ampler time and means, than have actually been en- joyed by them, and which, it is believed, few, if any, collections north of Edinburgh can equal. In particular, the collection of shells, consisting of many thousand specimens of the rarest and most beautiful kinds to be met with in Java, and throughout the eastern Archipelago, are well deserving of notice. There is a considerable variety of dresses, weapons, manufactures, and uten«* sils of the natives of India and Australia ; many mineral and zoo* logical specimens, coins, idols, &c. The institution also possesses some valuable books; among others, the printed Public Records of Great Britain, presented by Government; and, for scientific pur- poses, they are furnished with a transit and clock, a six feet reflecting telescope, together with an assortment of meteorological instruments from the best London makers. By the kindness of the magistrates, the t^'o large drawing-rooms BANFF. 53 in tbe town*hou9e have been allowed for the accommodation of the Literary Society and Scientific Institution. The Established Church, Episcopal, Secession, and Independ*- ent chapels, have each a small library belonging to it There is also a trades' library, open to master, journeymen, and apprentice, tradesmen. All these libraries are maintained by voluntary dona-* tions, or subscriptions almost nominal The collection belonging to the Independent chapel was begun in 1814, and contains 320 volumes. Here also there is a juvenile library of 364 volumes. The other collections are smaller. The advantages to be derived from these libraries, though not neglected, do not appear to be so eagerly sought after as might be wished. Probably the means at the disposal of the conductors will not always afford the selections best adapted for the readers. * Benevolent Institutions, — About the year 1755, or soon after, Dr Alexander Strachan, physician in Banff, built a small house in the low part of the town, and lef^ it, under the management of the ma- gistrates and kirk-session, as a residence to four poor persons, be- stowing, at the same time, a small sum of money and additional space of ground, now jointly yielding (after payment of certain feu- duties) an annual sum of Lb 1, Ss. 6d. applicable to the upholding and repairs of the house. By a will, dated at Bombay, 7th November 1769, Mr George Smith, a native of the parish of Fordyce, in the county of Banff, vested in the magistrates of Banff the management of such residue of his estate as might arise out of cei;tain legacies bequeathed by him to relatives of whose existence at the time he was uncertain ; and which, after the lapse of five years, might remain unclaimed by them : appointing the sum of L. 1000 to be applied to the en- dowing of an infirmary in Banff or Fordyce ; L. 25 yearly to be paid to the minister of Fordyce ; and L. 40 yearly to a school- master, to educate, at Fordyce, ..as many boys (of the name of Smith) as could be maintained, at the rate of L. 25 each, out of the interest of the final residue of the estate. As the handiest way of managing the affair of the itifirmary or hospital^ (for which L. 1000 was held to be a rather slender provision,) the magistrates formed the design of laying out a part of the town-house for a broth or soup-kitchen to the poor, in consideration of which they resolv- ed on applying the sum in question to the general expense of that * There is a collection of books in the academy, but mostly so antiquated or in- complete as to be of little use. 54 BANFFSHIRE. structure ; — and this under the idea, it may be supposed, that thej thereby, in effect, established an hospital for the admission and re- lief of persons labouring under the disease of an empty belly. Pa- tients of this class were accordingly, for a time, admitted, and dis- missed relieved. These, however, were soon succeeded by others of a different class, whose malady consisted in an inability to pay the penalties in/Hcted by excise courts ; and, at present, the only patient in the hospital is the Sheriff-clerk, whose complaint was want of room in the apartments otherwise allotted to him. To speak more plainly, the broth-kitchen became a prison, the prison a writing-chamber or record office ; but the departure, in this in- stance, from the testator's intentions, was more of chance or neces- sity than of design ; and, as there is now an ample provision for an infirmary otherwise, it needs not be regretted.* Besides the be- quest for the hospital, however, the magistrates realized the sum of L. 10,297, 16s. 6d. three per cent consols; and the yearly di- vidends (L. 308, 18s. -8d.) thence arising, are duly expended ac- cording to the directions of the will : nine boys, chosen by the ma- gistrates, receiving maintenance and education for five years each, in the manner specified. On the 2d July 1799, Mr James Wilson of the island of Gre- nada, directed, by will, ^^ the whole stock" (of his property, after the death of certain liferenters nominated,) ^^ to be drawn from the funds, and remitted to the magistrates of the bui^h of Banff, North Britain, to be by them laid out as a charitable fund, in the best manner possible, and to remain under the directions of the acting magistrates from year to year," and without any more spe- cific instructions whatever. The last of the liferenters died only last year, and the magis- trates have realized L.d561, 16s. Id. 3 per cents., and L. 2647 of cash, — which, however, is less than half the actual sum left ; the remaining, and greater part, being lost by the failure of the house in London to whom it was remitted. Every species of po- verty and distress in the parish being already as well provided for, otherwise, as can be beneficially done, it has been resolved to ap- ply Mr Wilson's bequest, jointly with some funds from other sources, to the purposes of education ; f and with this view, the * In regard to this matter, the Commissioners on Municipal Corporations obseryct that, " while the proceeding is not an example to be followed, it can hardly be oen. sured." f In the ease of Cassy's fund, afterwards mentioned, counsel were of opinion that education fell cbarly within the oljjects of the bequest. BANFF. 55 magistrates propose to erect a building * sufficient to embrace at once accommodation for an infant school, for a free school on the Madras system, and for class-rooms for the academy teachers, (besides a library and museum ;) it being intended to admit the more promising boys from the free schools to the benefit of a more complete education in the classes of the academy. By a will dated 8th February 1819, Mr Alexander Cassy, a native of Banff, and then residing at Pentonville, near London, left the residue of his estate, (after payment of certain legacies,) in trust to the magistrates and town-council of Banff, — appointing ^^ the interest accruing therefrom to be expended half-yearly, and every half-year, towards the support of poor, aged^ and infirm per- sons, of both sexes, incapable of maintaining themselves by labour, born within the precincts of the said burgh, and helpless orphans, and other deserted children of both sexes, born as before, until they attain the age when they may be deemed capable of provid- ing for themselves. And I hereby declare it to be my desire, that those who become objects of this charity, shall be selected at the discretion of the majority of the aforesaid town-council, always giving the preference to the most necessitous." These are the whole directions contained in the will as to the mode of bestowing the charity ; but the magistrates, previously to entering on the administration of the funds, procured, for their more specific direc- tion, an opinion of counsel, by which they have since been guid- ed in the selection of cases for relief. Under the provisions of this will, the annual sum of L. 300, be- ing the dividends upon L. 10,000, 3 per cent, consols, fell, in the year 1824, to the disposal of the magistrates. A farther sum of Lw 7000, 3 per cents., together with the value of a house at Pen- tonville, will fall in on the demise of certain liferenters named in the will. The average number of aged and infirm persons receiving re«* lief from this fund since July 1824, is 59 ; smallest number at one time, 55 ; greatest, 66. The average number of families of children (of one to six in each family,) 28 ; smallest number, 24 ; * A diaste and classic design, (furnished by Mr W. Robertson of Elgin, archi- tect*) has already been adopted by the trustees. The eastern fii^ade is designed to be 154 feet lon^, and to consist of a portico in the centre, in the Grecian Ionic style, with side buildings and two protruding wings at the extremes, adorned with pilasters and entablatures in the same taste. The situation of the building on the ascent on the south-west of the town will be such as to give it every advantage, particularly when seen, from the road that approaches from the south, across the river, anderer the trees environing Duff* House park. 56 ' BANFFSHIRE. greatest, 35. Average of both classes, 87-; smallest, 82 ; greatest 96. The average payment at last distribution (to each old per- son or young family,) was at the rate of L. 2, 15s. per annum ; the highest being L.4, 10s.; lowest, L. 1. L. 10 per annum is paid to the teacher of Pirie's school for instructing boys, and L. 6 to the teacher of the female charity school for instructing girls on the bounty. By a will dated 7th May 1825, Miss Elizabeth Wilson, an un- married female residing in Banff, pursuing an intention that had been mutually formed between her and her deceased brother, Mr John Wilson, baker there, bequeathed, to certain official and pri- vate trustees, the whole heritable and moveable property of which she should die possessed, with directions to apply the yearly produce of the same, (with immaterial deductions,) in equal annuities, to six tradesmen and six maiden women of the age of fifty years or upwards, and who have resided in Banff twenty years. The will also directs that L. 2 yearly should be laid out in the purchase of books (selected by the minister) for the use of the annuitants ; each of whom is far- ther to receive, on appointment, a Bible and book of devotion. Annuitants are named by a majority of the trustees. The ave- rage amount paid to each hitherto has been L. 9 or L. 10 per an- num. Alexander Chalmers, Esq. of Cluny, who died last year, lefl a settlement, jointly executed by himself and spouse, by which he appointed the whole of his heritable and moveable property (sub- ject to certain legacies and annuities, and to Mrs Chalmers's life- rent,) to be vested in trustees, for the ** founding, erection, and endowment of an hospital and free dispensary of medicines," to be called ^* Chalmers's Hospital," — '< for the support, mainte- nance, cure, and relief of destitute sick paupers, lunatics, and other diseased and poor infirm persons of both sexes, born, domi- ciliated, and resident in any town or parish of the said county of Banff, the inhabitants whereof shall make collections (for the in- stitution) at their respective parish churches," &c« — the site of Mr Chalmers's residence in the sea-town of Banff being at the same time assigned as that of the hospital to be erected. The trustees named for the management of this bequest are the Lord Lieutenant of the County ; Member for the County ; Sheriffs- depute and substitute ; Provost ; Ministers of Banff, Gamrie, and Marnoch ; President of Society of Solicitors, and Peter and John A. Cameron, Esqs. — three a quorum. BANFF. 57 The whole value of heritable and moveable property which will eventually be available for this charity is supposed not to fall short of L. 40,000. A Female Clothing Society has been for some years establish- ed, which expends about L. 13 annually, (raised by subscription among members and others,) in providing clothes and fuel to poor persons. There are besides one or two annual distributions of coals in the winter season, from bequests made by benevolent in- dividuals. Provident Jnstitutiatis. — The friendly societies which have had. their regulations sanctioned under the new act, are, Solomon's Lodge of Gardeners, instituted in April 1778; Adam's Lodge of Gardeners, and the Mason's Operative Lodge. These, with St Andrew's Mason Lodge, are all the friendly societies (unless the trades' incorporations, whose objects are similar, may be reckoned such,*) existing in the parish. The Graystone Friendly Society (established in 1792;) the Ploughman's (1801;) the Sailors' (1813;) and some more of later birth, have been dissolved within the last few years. Few of the members of them were inclined to take the trouble of conforming to the new act, — as few (it is suspected) averse to a present division of their funds. All these institutions, however, have gradually been suffering decay. In this, as in most other things, there is a fashion ; and here the fashion has declined. Indeed, such societies, are seldom entered so much with prudential objects in view, as for purposes of amuse- ment and good fellowship. It is remarked, too, that these associa- tions were never conducted upon sound principles, — the allowances being graduated, not according to a scientific calculation of the average proportion between contributions and claims, but in the ratio of the absolute number of contributors. The allowances granted at present by any of these societies are inconsiderable. To the principle of friendly societies the objection has been made, that they bear, in some respects, too near an alliance to a game of chances ; and that each person, trusting too much to the benefit he himself may enjoy at the expense of others, is thereby led to neglect sounder precautions against future necessity. From this objection, it is added, savings banks are free : here each man gets just his own savings, and hence, as alleged, the superiority of the savings banks over friendly societies. But though some, on * At Uie present moment (June 1836,) the trades* incorporations are in the course of being broken up, and the funds dlTided. 58 BANFFSHIRE. these grounds, prefer the principle of savings banks, still friendly societies seem generally to be reckoned highly beneficial in their nature, — supposing their management such as to let their operation have fair play. The Banff Savings Bank was established in 1815. For the last six years, the number of contributors, with the amount de- posited by them, has been as follows, viz. Tears, No. of Contributort. Amount depotUed, 1880. 295 L.2477 12 4 1831, 288 2424 8 4 1832, 285 . 2347 9 1 1833, 274 2393 U 10 I&34, 297 2629 15 3 1835, 304 2776 15 8 The amount of funds from this bank in the hands of the Com- mercial Bank of Scotland is about L. 2900. The investments are generally made by men and women servants from Banff and neigh- bouring parishes. Pauperism, — The poor of the parish are provided for, partly from the funds of the kirk-session, partly by an annual subscription among the inhabitants. Besides the ordinary church collections, the kirk-session draws annually in rents and interest the sum of L. 2d, 9s. 4d. A certain number of poor persons in the parish receive, direct- ly from the kirk-session, a regular weekly or quarterly allowance, at the rate of from 5s. to L. 2, 12s. a-year each. The kirk-session has a farther expenditure for extraordinary aids, and for allowances to persons residing out of the parish, but who have acquired a claim to relief by former residence. The affairs of the remaining poor of the parish are managed by a committee chosen annually by the subscribers to the fund, and which is divided into sub-committees for the several districts. Along with the amount of the subscriptions, and occasional windfalls, the committee have L. 100 annually placed at their dis- posal by the kirk-session. Cases for relief are selected, and the rates to each individual fixed, by the committee, which meets twice a-year. The allow- ances are, for the most part, paid weekly, and range from 6d. to Is. 6d. to each person, — a few quarterly from 2s. 6d. to 10s. The following table presents a view of all the particulars now mentioned for the last five years : BANFF. 59 tJVb. ofp€r»ona receiving ordinarjf aUowancet, •« 4 I *• Frowi ArtrAr union, g ,^ g ^ ^ ajk 5.8" MJ 'a ^§ a II II I ^^ h I 11 II ^ O g CQ-i S || ^1. ^ -^1 ^li 1831, L.112 L.101 )2 4 96 Tli lOdT" lTq 1692, 111 148 11 4 04 109 9icL 6 183% 111 103 11 4 91 106 9^d. 10 1&S4,* 160 113 12 5 95 112 9^d. 10 1835^ 170 116 18 5 98 121 9d. 20 Average of 6 years, L.1S3 L.116 13 4 95 112 9(d. L.11 The system now described was first adopted in 1817, chiefly with a view to the suppression of common street begging, an end which it has effectually enough answered, — though by no means so as to supersede the necessity for private almsgiving, and occasional col- lections for special cases of distress; and, taken generally, as a plan of pauper management, its operation appears to have been, on the whole, satisfactory. It is, however, a circumstance well worth remark, that an addi- tional annual expenditure since the year 18*24 of nearly L. 300 (from Cassie's bounty, as already described,) has had so far from a proportional effect in lessening the amount required to be raised otherwise.f Few or none, indeed, of the persons on the general poor's fund are those who are receiving, at the same time, an al- lowance from Cassie's bequest But the latter class of persons, being only the next above the former, and that from which the ranks of the regular poor may be supposed to be filled, — the two funds may, in estimating the effect of an increased provision for the poor, be set down as one. It would, of course, be an error to say that Cassie's bounty has not been productive of benefit : it must, to its extent, have saved distress or privation that would have been other- wise felt : but an additional proof has been afforded by it, in the present instance — if, indeed, experience were needed to prove what may be pronounced before hand — that an increase of funds for the maintenance of the poor will not lessen the nxanber of the poor. * For the last two years tLerehave generally been three services in the church each )Bunday> and a resident heritor's contribution to the collections. t The average sum expended by the Poors* Committee for eight years, 1817-24, was L.327; number of poor, 156; average sum for five years, 1831-35, L. 216 ; num- ber, 95 ; making only a reduction of L. 11 1 on the sum, 61 on the number. It is be* lieved, too, that it is not so much a lessening of the demand as of the supply that oc- casions even this differed'ee— several families who were liberal contributors having died away or removed. 60 BANPFSHrRE. Applications for assistance from charitable funds are stated to be increasing in frequency in the parish ; and it seems to be the opi- nion of all who have the means of observing, that feelings of dis- inclination to resort to such assistance are fast wearing off. There is good reason for suspecting, besides, that the existence of so many charitable institutions in the parish has been the means of attracting poor persons to come from & distance to settle in it. Prison. — The number of prisoners confined in J^anff jail for three years has been as follows : 1832. I8;)d. 1884. Debtors, 22 17 9 Criminals, 15 1« 45 Revenue offenders, 5 4 2 Total each year, 42 37 56 Looking to the strength of the walls of the prison, the solidity of Its window gratings, and the ponderous iron door which shuts in its main passage, one would scarcely suppose a prisoner could have much chance of escape; yet, in some instances, escapes have been made from it, and in others, attempts to escape have only been discovered when almost on the point of success. — Some years ago, a few Crown debtors were confined for enormous penalties, incurred for contravention of the excise laws ; and on this occasion, so little dependence were the inhabitants disposed to place in the power of walls or bolts to retain the captives, that, having the fear of the Exchequer before their eyes (it being understood that the town would be liable for payment of the penalties if the prisoners escaped,) they turned out, every night, in companies of four or six by rotation, to guard the doors and windows of the prison. Still the prison may be said to be well secured. It is also entirely fire- proof. But it is decidedly deficient in accommodation. There are only two apartments for the reception of civil prisoners, each 19 feet square ; and it is understood that a burgess of the town, if confined in one of these, has the power to exclude from it all others who may not possess that happy distinction. Unfortunate* ly, he cannot exclude them from the prison altogether. Instances have occurred in which ten or twelve persons have been huddled together, day and night, in one of these apartments, or with only the additioncd accommodation of the narrow passage into which the apartments open. There are frequently six or eight* persons in one of them. The situation of the prison is airy enough, BANFF. 61 but there is no court-yard to which the prisoners have access. There are» besides the civil prisons, two cells for criminals. In these there are no fire-places ; and, even in the depth of winter, the wretched inmate has nothing furnished him but a bed-stead. Light and air are admitted through a narrow slit in the wall, which, till lately, was unglazed. So unfit, however, have these dungeons been conceived to be, for the reception of any human being, that criminals have, in fact, necessarily been allowed to encroach on the accommodation of the debtors. These prisons are on the second story. On the ground floor is a pretty large vault, with windows opening into a narrow court, in which female prisoners are gene- rally lodged together, without respect to the cause of their deten- tion. There is also, on the ground floor, a dungeon, (lately con- structed) which, assuming that the ofiice of a dungeon is to make human existence wretched, seems to want nothing that can con- tribute to such a purpose, except the being fairly under ground. It is entirely in the interior of the building, and cut off from all direct communication with external light or air, — the small grat- ing in the door opening only into a half-dark passage. This is said to be intended only for the temporary reception of persons disturbing the public peace by brutal drunkenness or other outra- geous behaviour. It does not appear, that until within these few months, any regular means were employed for preserving cleanli- ness, either as regards the apartments and furniture, or the per- sons and dress of the prisoners, (except that water was carried in- to them by the jailors.) The jail is entirely under the government or superintendence of the magistrates. Criminals are allowed 8d. a-day, paid by the county, before conviction ; by the burgh, after it. Debtors without other means of subsistence receive an aliment from the imprison- ing creditor, the amount of which is fixed by the magistrates. It varies generally from 8d. to 2s. 6d. per day. Fairs* — The town is allowed by charters to hold seven or eight fairs or markets yearly, but only four are held ; and of these but one (Brandon fair, at Whitsunday,) is of any magnitude. This, as well as the Martinmas and Lammas, are feeing markets. There are no cattle-markets. Inns and Alehouses. — There are 88 inns or shops licensed for the sale of ale and spirits,— all within the liberties of the buigfa. The general opinion seems to be, that the number of such houses adds to the prevalence of tippling, and undoubtedly thb vice prc« 62 BANFFSHIRE. vails in the town to a considerable extent. But while some sup~ pose that habits of drinking have their origin in causes which would work alike, independently of the greater or smaller number of li- censed houses, others, admitting the evil of licensing a house, but from necessity, in a district where there is yet no other, maintain that a small number of taverns or alehouses in a neighbourhood where there must be some^ has a direct tendency to increase dis- sipation, from the greater number of visitors who must necessarily resort to one place, and the consequent more frequent and easy for- mation of drinking parties. A strong belief seems to be generally entertained of the perni- cious effects of spirit-shops, as distinct from inns or taverns, in so much as the former (more especially when furnishing, as some of them do, a private room for tippling,) afford opportunities and temp- tations to many persons who would be averse to be seen frequent- ing the tavern. Fuel — Coals; but as" there is a peat-moss at the inland extre- mity of the parish, peats are, especially in its vicinity, more or less used. The average price of coals (mostly from Sunderland) is about Is. O^d. per barrel of 2^ imperial bushels. Carriage in the town about Id. per barrel more. Peats, in the town, cost from 28« to ds. per load, according to the size of the cart. Comparative State, The chief differences that have occurred in regard to the state and circumstances of the parish since the last Statistical Ac* count was drawn up, have been sufficiently indicated under the different heads comprehended in the present report The ex- tension of cultivation, and the use of an improved mode of hus- bandry, — the establishment of the herring fishery, — the increase of the corn exports, and introduction of the system of exporting live cattle, — the formation of turnpike roads, and multiplication and improvement of the means of communication, — the discontinuance of smuggling, — the expensive, though not quite efficient, additions to the harbour, — the establishment of new congregations and places of worship, — the institution of libraries, — the valuable bequests and endowments made to the town, — the increased conveniences from gas lights, baths, and the like — may just be referred to as among the most striking alterations. In regard to moral and social changes, there is not much to remark. Like all other places in the king- dom, the town partook of the fictitious and temporary prosperity arising from the anticipations of the national revenue made during DESKFORD. 63 the war ; and^ like all other places, when the product of these an- ticipations was once expended, and the permanent burden they en- tailed began to be felt, it suffered from the transition. In the first period, there was a general start upwards of every rank in society, each occupying the place of the one next above it. The revulsion was necessarily in proportion. Numerous failures among the mer- chants and tradesmen took place after the peace ; and no little difficulty was sustained by others, whose circumstances were not so necessarily made apparent. Perhaps the increased facilities of bank accommodation which began to be afforded about that time, augmented the evil. But the worst is now past ; matters have re- turned to their natural level ; and nothing seems wanting, but the continuance of foreign and domestic tranquillity, to enable the com- munity to realize as much prosperity as, under national and local circumstances hardly admitting of alteration, the human condition is usually known to allow. Jtdy 1836. PARISH OF DESKFORD. PAESBYTERY OF FORDYCE, AND SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. GEORGE INNES, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The present name of this parish, there is reason to be* lieve, is the only name which it has borne since its erection ; and is supposed to have reference to its situation and climate with re- gard to CuUen, with which it has, of all places, the most intercourse. Deskford lies to the south of Cullen, and being farther from the coast, the climate is naturally colder than that of Cullen ; hence, the name Deskford has been derived from Chess fare^ which sig- ni6es ^^ a cold place to the southward."* Extent and Boundaries. — The length of this parish is rather more than 5 miles, and its breadth somewhat above 3. It is bound- ed, on the south, by Grange ; on the west, by Rathven ; on the * Fordyce, from which Deskford was probably disjoioedi is said to have the same etymology- The climate of the greater part of both is similar, and the name, (invert* ing the syllables ) is also similar. 64 BANFFSHIRE« north, by CuUen, or that part of Rathven annexed quoad sacra to Cullen; and on the east, by Fordyce. Topographical Appearances, — The form of the parish is nearly that of a parallelogram. It is intersected by a small stream called the burn of Deskford, which rises in the adjoining parish of Grange, and is increased in its course through Deskford by many stream- lets from the rising grounds on each side of it, running down small glens or ravines, beautifully fringed with natural wood on each side of them, as is the bum or main stream into which they run. So that Deskford forms one of the most beautiful little straths in the whole country. The impetuosity of the little streams in thaws or floods, rolling and bounding down their steep and rocky channels, and of the burn, which is then swelled into a large size, sweeping majestical- ly along, is grand and striking. There is, as may be supposed, a variety of small waterfalls ; and there is one called the Linn, which is singularly beautiful. The water is hemmed within a very nar- row channel, in the deep cleft of a great rock, the entrance of which it has beautifully scooped and polished; and it throws itself at several successive bounds to a depth of nearly thirty feet. The scenery around is exceedingly romantic and beautiful. The high ground on the east side of the strath, at its south or upper end, is partly planted with larch and common fir. It is cal- led the Green-hill. That on the west or opposite side is of a mossy nature, and is generally covered with heath, except small patches here and there, which have been cultivated, the number and ex- tent of which are gradually increasing.* At the north or lower end of the strath, the ground is cultivated on the east side to the very top of the hill ; and on the west or opposite side it is covered with fir and other thriving wood. The low ground, throughout the whole length of the strath, is almost wholly cultivated, except where the precipitous banks of the burns or ravines prevent it But these being covered with natural wood, add much to the variety and beauty of the scenery. Climate. — The climate is rather cold and wet. But, if we may judge from the general health and longevity of the inhabitants, it cannot be considered as peculiarly unwholesome. And even its * These patches are cultivated by smaU tenants, to whom the proprietor lets the ground in lots of from eight to twelve or twenty acres, for seven years, rent free ; and after that, for Is. or Is. 4d. per acre for a period of nineteen years, — after whioh the land is. let for sueh moderate tent as it is judged worth. 3 DESKFORD. 65 humidity must be undergoing a favourable change, from the drain* ing and cultivation which are carried on. Geology and Mineralogy. — The general soil of the parish, in the lower parts of it, is black loam upon a hard clay bottom. In the higher grounds, the soil is mossy, upon a hard impervious bot- tom of clay and gravel mixed. This renders draining, in almost all parts of the parish, of the greatest necessity and importance, and it has of late been much resorted to, and with much advan- tage. There is in the parish an excellent quariy of primitive limestone, The lime is of very superior fineness and strength. Large quanti- ties of it are prepared by the tenantry, partly for sale, and partly for their own use in agriculture and in building. There is, likewise, an extensive moss in the parish, from which the inhabitants are supplied with peat and turf, and from which they supply Cullen and some of the adjoining villages upon the coast The parish, in so far as can be ascertained from the channels and banks of the burns and ravines, and other openings which have made, seems to rest chiefly upon strata of mica-slate, nearly verti- cal. Fragments of quartz are frequently found imbedded in the slate, but never to any considerable size. There is much reason to think that all this part of the country has, at some remote pe- riod, been under water, as almost all the higher grounds, upon par- ing off a surface coat of vegetable mould, which is of no great depth, except where the moss has much accumulated, are found to consist of gravel, or clay and gravel mixed. Botany, — There is not, as far as the writer knows, any rare spe- cies of plants found in the parish. The natural wood, which grows along the sides of the burn and smaller streams, is chiefly alder, hazel, gean, and birch. The planted wood is common fir, a small proportion of larch, and a still smaller of ash, beech, and oak, the whole of which thrive sufficiently well in most of the places where they have been tried. There are, in an orchard adjoining to the church, some very fine large ashes measuring from eight to twelve feet'^in circumference. One of them is of the latter dimensions, in girth, at the height of ten feet from the ground. But of the two trees called St John's, and young St John's, commemorated in the former Statistical Account, the grandeur is now entirely gone. The lat- ter was, by an act of presumption and bad taste, and without autho- rity from the Noble proprietor or his factor, cut down upwards of twenty years ago ; and of the former, nothing now remains but a BANFF. E 66 BANFFSHIRE. very small part of the trunk, hollowed, scathed and withered, send- ing forth only one small solitary green, branch, produced apparently since the former wide-spreading boughs gave way, and likely soon also to wither and disappear as they have done. The very fine holly, also commemorated in that Account, which consisted of a trunk about eight feet in circumference, separating into two beau- tiful straight stems at about eight feet from the ground, has now only one of these stems standing ; and that stem is also in a very fragile state, from pervading and consuming rot, which first disparted the stems to the very ground, then rendered one of them incapable of standing, and will soon do the same to the other. Thus the principal ornaments of this delightful spot, once so abundant in excellent fruit as well as in stately trees, are now either entirely gone, or are fast hastening to decay. There are, however, besides the ashes already mentioned, in a growing state, which may in time perhaps be not inferior to their sires, — a holly bush, one of the stems of which is 5^ feet in circumference ; and a hawthorn tree, 4^ feet in circumfe- rence. There is likewise, in another part of the parish somewhat lower down, also by the burn side, a hawthorn tree of much larger dimensions. It is 8^ feet round at the height of 6^ feet from the ground, and its wide-spreading umbrageous top, when richly co- vered with flourish or with berries, is singularly striking and beau- tiful. II. — Civil History. This parish has long been the property of the Earls of Findla- ter and Seafield. The date of its erection into a parish, the writer has no means of ascertaining. Parochial Registers. — There are parochial registers as far back as 1669 : and the register of births and marriages is continuous from that time to the present. There is no record of the pro- ceedings of the kirk-session earlier than 1684. The record con- tinues to 1687. There is then a blank till 1694, from which time the record seems to have been kept with tolerable accuracy till 1731, when there is another blank till 1734. This is attributed to the carelessness of the then session-clerk, who had left only *^ a few confused scraps, which nobody could connect" Antiquities. — There was found, about twenty years ago, on the confines of a farm called Liechestown, the resemblance of a swine's head in brass, of the ordinary size, with a wooden tongue moveable by springs. It had also eyes, and the resemblance in every respect was wonderfully exact. It was found at a depth of about six feet, in a DESKFORD« 67 mossy and knolly piece of ground upon a bed of clay. The ground abounded with hazel-nuts, which looked entire, but, upon being open- ed, were found empty. This antique curiosity is now in possession of the Banff Institution, to which it was presented by the Honour- able Colonel Grant, to whom it was given by the tenant who found it on his farm. The place where it was found is close by the confines of another farm, called Inalterie, which is supposed to mean the place of the altar, and where there are the remains of a very old strong massive building, the nature of which cannot now be ascertained, and respecting which there is no tradition. In one part of this building, there is a deep circular hole, about the diameter of an ordinary draw-well, inclosed by a wall of masonry, rising to a consi- derable height in the building. This hole is now filled up with rubbish to a level with the surface of the ground. What had been the original purpose of it cannot now be ascertained. Perhaps it had been intended as a ^' dry pit" for the solitary confinement of offending individuals. Close to it, there is a vault, on the top of which the tenant has now his kail-yard. Some years ago, an at- tempt was made to explore this vault, A stair was found leading down to it. A heavy rain, however, coming on at the time, and filling the place ynth water, the work was interrupted, and has never been resumed. Whether this ruin be that of a baronial or ecclesiastical edifice, it is not perhaps now possible to determine ; though the name Inalterie, and the artificial head already men- tioned, which was probably contrived for some purpose of impos- ture, or '^ lying wonder,'' would rather incline us to suppose it to be the ruin of some ecclesiastical building, erected in those remote ages, when ignorance, superstition, imposture, and tyranny were so prevalent In the immediate vicinity of this ruin, there was, till lately, a conical artificial eminence, called the Law Hillock, and supposed to have been at one time the seat from which justice was dis- tributed. It is now demolished, the tenant having found the stones, of which it chiefly consisted, very convenient for the building of his offices ; a purpose to which the stones of the adjoining ruin re- fused to be subservient, obstinately resisting every effort made to separate them. There is also on the other side of the burn of Deskford, within view of the former, and about half a mile from it, another hillock, rising to the height of 20 feet, with regularly sloping sides, and flat upon the top, — which is of an elliptical shape, about 30 feet by 68 BANFFSHIRE. 18 feet It is surrounded at the base by a ditch, one part of which forms the bed of a small stream which runs past it, and is called the Ha' burn, as the hillock is called the Ha' hillock, and is said also to have been a hall of law or justice. In a fine day, it would still be a most convenient and delightful place for such a purpose — incom* parably preferable to a close and crowded court-house. There is a gateway over the ditch, by which suitors could approach. There is sufficient room in the area on the top, for the court, and a mo- derate share of witnesses on both sides, while the assembled multi-* tudes below would be completely under the eye of the authorities above. There is likewise close to the church, the ruin of an old tower or castle, called the Tower of Deskford, which had been the fa- mily residence of the chief proprietor in the^parish. The south wall of this old building and the north wall of the church are in immediate contact, and there is reason to think, that there had been a door of communication between the two, and that the church had been the family chapel, at the same time that it aflforded ac-> commodation for the people of the surrounding district, when as- sembled together for religious worship. This tower was, till lately, a very prominent and interesting feature in the scenery ; but, owing to the masonry having got into so loose and incohesive a state, as to occasion danger of its being blown down, and overwhelming the church, which it greatly overtopped, it was some years ago pulled down. * — Of the Castle of Skeith, mentioned in the former Sta- tistical Account as a striking ruin, there is now no vestige. — The church is a very ancient building, and was evidently erected before the Reformation. It contains accommodations not now necessary in parochial churches — as recesses in the walls behind the doors for the vessels with holv water. It is said to have been dedicated to St John. Beside it, is St John's well, the spring or stream supply- ing which issues almost as it were from beneath the church. Close to St John's well is the once stately tree, dedicated to the same saint, which has been already mentioned, and of which so small a iragment is all that now remains. Modern BuiJdingi. — There is no modern or other building of any note in the parish. There are two meal mills, one of them * The apprehension of this injury to the church was excited by two immense mas- ses of the same building in another part having iUlen down, one iSbov^ the other. Had these two masses fallen together in one continuous sweep, they would have ine- vitably crushed a small house quite near with its poor inhabitants. This hint was not to be negleoted, and) upon examination of the part acQoining to the church, it was found little more secure. DESKFORD. 69 with a kiln and barley mill attached to it, and there are eight thrashing-mills, all driven by water. There was, till lately, the machinery of a bleachfield worked also by the same power. III. — Population. The ancient state of the population previous to the return made to Dr Webster, when its amount was 940, there are no means of as- certaining. Between the date of that return and of the former Statist tical Account, a period of about forty years, there appears to have been a decrease of 188, and between that and the census of 1811 there appears to have been a further decrease of 118, owing, in both cases, «most probably, to the diminution of the number of crofters and subtendnts. Since the census of 1811, there has been a gradual increase, occasioned, no doubt, in some degree, by the encouragement given to settlers in the uncultivated parts of the parish, near the moss. In IBM the population was 634 1821, . . 693 1831, . . 828 The yearly average of marriages for the last seven years is 4|, and of births 23. There is no register of burials kept. The average number of persons undm* 15 years of age is 330 betwixt 15 and 30 . 143 so and 50 .187 50 and 70 . 117 upwards of 70 51 The number of families in the parish, . . . 194 chiefly employed in agriculture, . 1 72 in trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, 17 There is no family of rank or of independent fortune, and there is no landed proprietor, residing in the parish. The number of unmarried men, bachelors and widowers upwards of 50 years of age, is 8 ; and of unmarried women upwards of 45, 26. The ave- rage number of children in each family is 4^. There are 2 persons in the parish occasionally insane ; 3 rather in a fatuous state, and till within these few months there was one very aged female blind, who died in the ninety-first year of her age. Character^ Sfc, of the People. — The people are in general healthy. There are many instances of longevity.* Their habits are sober and industrious, with few exceptions. They live very plainly, and, * There are various aged females on the verge of ninety,— and one ninety-six, who woe till within these two years in the habit of attending church, though she had moie than a mile of very rough ground (not road,) to walk to it, with ditches in her way, and the bum to cross either on stepping-stones or on a plank. A man died last winter ' aged ninety-seven. The elder, commemorated in the former Statistical Account as the f and wbicb at differeiit points descends ak>ng the declivity of tbd mountaiDy eoaneding itself with the mosses surrounding its base. II.— Civil History* There is a ebarter granted by Alexander 11. in 1242, describ- ing tbe boandaries of the estate of Park, in the possession of Lieu- tenant-Colonel Gordon^ who is sole proprietor of the parish. A plan of tbe whole parish was made in 1782 for the use of the pro- prietor. Parochial Registers* — Tbe parochial registers commence in 1704; and have been kept regularly from that date. Endtieni Mm.'-^The on)y person of eminence as a literary cha- ficter which this parish bas produced, is Mr Walter Goodall, au- thor of a Defence of Queen Mary. Buildinffi*-^^A neat commodious cfaorch was built in 1805, ca- pable of holding between 400 and 500 persons ; the manse in 1796; and considerable additions were made in 1839 to the man- sion-house of Park, which is a large handsome-looking building. III. — Population. The population in 1805 was 510 1811 521 1821 506 1831 651 The cause of the increase has been the improvement of waste knds. There is but one yillage, — where there is a population at present of 60 ; and in the country part there is a population of 599« The average number of births for the last seven years is 15 ; of marriages, 6. The number of persons under fifteen is 279 : be- twixt fifteen and thirty, 131 ; betwixt thirty and fifty, 148; betwixt fifty and seventy, 77 ; upwards of seventy, 22. The family of the proprietor resides in the parish. Tbe unmarried women upwards of fifty are 3; and there are 1 widower and 4 unmarried women upwards of forty-five. The nnmber of fttmiliei in tbe perisb, . • . _ 140 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 86 in trade, manafkctures, and handicraft, 28 IV. — iNrntTSTRY. -^ M »»i#» 9^^0i0rim0m00'm^mm MMtfWMMWfWM^ Elaphus? (red-Kieer) Furo ▼ulgaria. Stnx flammea Turdufl musicus viadvoms Merula Birds. ^tmm^mm^m Cortus frugi]«gui MotaciUa uba . boarula m0mm0i^0mmmtm Sylvia Locustella »w>«».»— melaxiocephala Saxicola (Enantbe Emberiaa citrinella Anthas Richardi Panismijor •«*«•••>•« «atar #1MVW«r<«A«V«W«W miliaria Scolopaz rusdcola Hannatopiu ottralegus Vanelliis cristatiu Dytiflcua semistriatus Carabus granulatus Pjrrbula vulgaris FriDgilla Cbloris caonabina Coelebs mif00itmm00tg^mmm0 ' WWM«MWIMMW«*W GalUnula ehloropiis. Insects. m^i^mmmm^m^^m auratus ,»«.»...»»«.., spmibarbis Elater eupreus Flapilio brassica ,^,^^^» urticsi Notoxus mollis Coccinella oblongo-guttata ■ » ■- » ■■.. septem-punctate Tipula oleracea Cassida viridis Attelabus fonnicarius Hrdrophilus caraboides . Libellula forcipata Scaraboeus fimetarius Forficula auricularia Formica nifa Yespa crabro ifo^ony.— -The most common Bellis perennis Lotus comiculatus Cerastium Tiscosum Poljgala vulgaris Veronica chamaedrys officinalis beccabunga Plantago laneeolata Ranunculus arvensis Vespa vulgaris Staphylinus politus »«www(i>*»»ii»<»>.>^..^..^^..- glaucus .,„-,. ^....^ minus Spargula arvensja Po» Scabiosa succisa ScirpS Geranium molle Alopecuri Senecio vulgaris Anthoxanthum odoratum Orobus tuberosus Erica vulgaris Mentha arvensis ^>.,.., tetralix Sinapis arvensis Chrysanthemum leucanthemum VioUtrieokMr Ulex EuropsBus Spartium scoparium Prunella vulgaris Airs Hyperica 86 BANFFSHIRE. Tlilaspi borsa-pastoris Stellaria graminea Sonchus arvcnsis <^>>^.»^» «u ligino8a Thymus gerpylluin Anemone nemorosa Tormentilla erecta Primula veris Stellaria media Oxalis acetosella - ■■ -J ,jjrr,^^^*^^<*» Junci. The forests and plantations are chiefly composed of the Scotch fir and larch, which seem to be most suitable to the soil and cli- mate ; but oak, beech, plane, elm, Spanish chestnut, horse chest- nut, and ash, are here and there interspersed. IL — Civil History. Land-^owners. — There are only three heritors in the parish : Lady Abercromby, who possesses the patronage of the church ; Alexander Grant, Esq. of Carnousie; and Alexander Morrison, Esq. of Mountblairy. Ancient Charters. — There are several very ancient charters in the hands of the Forglen family, connected with the transference of property to and from the family of the Ogylvies of Banff, of which the present Lady Abercromby is a descendant From these, it appears that the lands of Forglen at one time belonged to the abbey of Aberbrothick, as well as the patronage of the church. The writer of this article has inspected a deed conveying the lands of Forglen, and power of presenting to the living, from Irvine of Drum to the Abbey, and another re-conveying them to the family of Irvine. These deeds are dated as far back as the beginning of the fif- teenth century. Parish Records. — The records of church discipline begin in 1659, and have been regularly kept till the present time, with the exception of five years after 1754. The register of baptisms and marriages is very imperfect. In these registers we find some notices which are worth recording, as exhibiting some interesting differences between the former and present age. It was usual at one time, before the celebration of the Lord's supper, for the mi- nister to inquire of his session if there was any variance existing in the parish, and if there was, they took steps to have it suppres- sed. On one occasion it is stated, ^^ that there was variance be- twixt neighbours" in a certain district of the parish, whereupon the minister promised to travel that week among them and see what could be done. It was enacted by the Assembly 1641, that every presbytery consisting of twelve members should maintain a bursar of Divinity, and where the number was fewer than twelve it was to be joined FORGLEN. 87 with another presbytery which could count more members than the above-mentioned number. This injunction was complied with in this parish till 1801, when the practice ceased. The sum contri- buted was 5s. yearly. Public iippearances before the congregation in cases of disci- pline seem to have been given up about the year 1775. The fol- lowing persons are known to have been ministers here : 1. Alex- ander Scroggie, 1642;* 2. Robert Brown, 1659; 3. William Blair, 1667; 4. John Dunbar, 1676; 5. James Bannerman, 1717, translated from Inve raven; 6. David Bannerman, 1741, translated to St Martins; 7. James Milne, 1759, translated to Ellon ; 8. Pu)- bert BaUingal, 1775; 9. Laurence Moyes, 1796; 10. Present incumbent, 1831, translated from Aberdeen. Antiquities.^— There are the remains of a religious house where the rivulet falls into the Deveron ; but nothing more is known con- cerning it than what has been already mentioned, — that tradition assigns it to St Eunon. — There are two barrows unopened, about 600 yards from the church. — In making a road in 1627, an urn was dug up containing a quantity of ashes. Another urn with similar contents was found in the hill of greywacke before men- tioned, about twenty years ago. — A silver coin of the size of a crown piece, of the date of 1670, was lately found in the wall of an old house. It seems from the inscription to have been current in the Electorate and Archiepiscopate of Cologn. — Over the entry to the house of Forglen are placed the arms of Scotland. Below these, are the arms of the owner of the house at the time that part of it was erected, — which, we learn from one of the stones, was the year 1577. Above the royal arms, we find written, hoip of re- VAiaD CAVSES GviD SERVICE; and under the arms of the family is the following inscription : DO VEIL AND DOVPT NOCHT ALTHOCH THOV BE SPYIT ; HE IS LYTIL GVID VORTH THAT IS NOCHT ENVYIT ; * He seems to have been the first incumbent in the newly erected parish, and was at one time Regent in King's College, Aberdeen, from which office he had been depos- ed on account of his opposition to the covenant. His father at the same time waa deposed from his charge as minister of Old Machar. The circumstance of the eject- ed regent finding refuge in Forglen is easily accounted for. The proprietor of the estate and patron of the parish was at the time George Ogilvie, a staunch adherent of Charles I., who, on account of his loyalty, was created first a baronet, and after- wards a peer with the title of Lord Banff. He, along with Aboyne, commanded the King's forces at the bridge of Dee in 1639. His title, before this, was Sir George Pgilvie of Dunlugas. He became proprietor of Forglen, by marrying the daughter of Irvine of Drum. 88 BANFFSHIRE. TAK THOV NO TENT QVHT EYERIE MAN TELS ; GYVE THOV VALD LEIVE ONDEMIT GANG QVHAIR NA MAN DVELS. and below this GOD^ GYVE8 AND HAS NOCHT YE LEB. . Buildings. — The houses of Foiglen and Carnousie are ancient ; the oldest part of the former beiog built about 1440, as appears from the arms and cypher on an old stone. The church, the pa- rochial and female school-bouses are modem buildings. There are two mills in the parish, originally erected for the accommoda- tion of the tenants of Forglen and Carnousie. The materials em<-> ployed for building are the stones already mentioned as commoD» Sometimes, however, granite and red sandstone are used, which are brought from the neighbouring parishes : III.-— Population. In 1 755, %h% popuUtion waa, according to Dr Webster's tablef, 607 17ft2, • 577 1768, ....... 613 1794, GOO 1811, .... • .828 1821, 750 loot, •....«, odO Number of fiunilies, .... 166 engaged in agriculture, . 77 in trade, . 18 of independence, 2 ofmales, ..... 378 of females, .... 442 During the last three years, there were 12 illegitmate births in the parish, — ^3 of which were followed by the nmrriage of the parents. IV. — Industry. AffricuUure and Sural Economy^^^There are in the parish. In a state of cultivation, . 8617 acres. Waste or pasture land, . 1055 Reclaimable with profit, 1129 Plantotions, . 1483 Total, 7234 Most of the Scotch firs, which form a considerable proportion of those plantations, have been planted. Besides these, we have the spruce fir, the larch, the ash, and the oak, all of which thrive well, and some in a superior degree. The elm, the plane, the beech, the horse^hestnut, and the lime, are found in the policies of Forglen House. Rent of hand. — The average rent of land per acre is 16s. A year's grazing for a cow or ox costs L. 5, for a sheep, L. 1. FORGLEN. 89 Bate of JVaffes^^^Wrlght^ receiTe about lis. and masons 1^ per week ; tailors 2s. per day. A ploughman's wages for a year are L, 11; a woman's wages L.5. In 1795, according to the former Statistical Account, the fee of a &rm<*servant was from L. 7 to L. 8 ; women received about L. % 10s. Wooden ploughs cost L. S, and iron ploughs I^d, 10s.; carts, L. 10; harrows, 8s. Live^stodu — The Aberdeenshire and Bucfaan are the common kinds of cattle reared in the parish, and great attention has been paid to the improyement of the stock, by the introduction of the Teeswater, the Dunrobin, and the Galloway breeds. The common breed of sheep is the Highland, which has been improved by the introduction of the Merino, the Cheviot, and the Leicester. A valuable sort is obtained by a cross of the Leicester and the Che* viot Husbandry. — The land generally passes through seven a years' rotation, in the following order : 1. turnips ; 2. oats or barley, with grass sown; 9. grass cut for hay; 4. grass; 5. grass ; 6. oats ; 7. oats. Very little wheat is raised in the parish. This grain has been culti- vated for so short a time, that a statement cannot be warranted as to whether it will be a profitable crop. The latest improvements in agriculture have been introduced. About one^third of the arable land has been reclaimed from waste within the last fifty years^ and one^fourth of what is improved is drained. leases are usual- ly granted for nineteen years. The farm-buildings are inferior to those in the south of Scotland. The work of inclosing is making great progress. Hedges as inclosures are almost unknown. The dry stone dike is chiefly used for that purpose. The chief obsta- cle to improvement is want of capital. There are several quarries of clay-slate in the parish. Fishery, — At one time, the salmon-fishing in the Deveron was of considerable value ; but now, owing, as it is supposed, to obstruc- tions in the mouth of the river, it is much fallen off, so that the rent for three miles is only L. 5 per annum. The whole extent of the river in the parish is generally let to two individuals. V. — Parochial Economy. Banff, at the distance of seven miles from the northern extremity of the parish, is the nearest market-town. The post-town is Tur- riff, about a mile distant from the south-eastern boundary. There is no village in the parish. The extent of turnpike road may be about seven miles. Three carriers pass through, weekly, to Aber- deen. The bridges over the rivulet are in good order. That over 90 BANFFSHIRE. the DeveroD, connecting this parish with Turriflf, built in 1826 of red sandstone, is of great utility, and cost L. 2503. Ecclesiastical State. — The church, which was built in 1806, and is in excellent order, is situated on the south-eastern boundary of the parish, — s, very inconvenient position for the people, some of whom are between four and five miles from it There is a morti- fication in favour of the minister, of 200 merks, which lies in his hand free of interest, and is transferred, to his successor. This was left by the tutor of Cromarty, in testimony, it is said, of the minister's hospitality, which he had on a particular occasion enjoy- ed. The church accommodates between 400 and 500 persons. There are no free sittings. The manse had a very considerable addition made to it in 1828. The glebe, the yearly value of which may be stated at L. 14, consists of about 4^ acres arable land, and between 4 and 5 acres of den fit for pasture. The teinds of the parish are exhausted. The stipend is paid partly in money and partly in meal. The money stipend is L. 134, 6s. 2d ; the meal stipend 58 bolls, 3 firlots, 2 lippies, which is paid according to the fiars price, by an arrangement between the minister and heritors. The whole stipend for the year 1835 was L. 172, 15s. 6d. In favour- able weather, the church does no more than accommodate the re- gular hearers. There are 4 Episcopalians who worship at Turriff, where there is a minister of that persuasion ; and 2 Roman Catho- lics. All the rest of the inhabitants attend the parish church. The number of communicants is about 350. There are two extra- ordinary collections in the parish yearly, — one for the Aberdeen Infirmary, the other for the Assembly's India Mission and the Schools in the Highlands and Islands. On each occasion, the contribution averages somewhat above L. 5. The average amount of collections for the poor is L. 56, a considerable part of which is supplied by the family of Forglen, who are resident. Neither of the other heritors is resident. The session is composed of five members. Education. — There are two schools in the parish, — the parochial, and the female school for sewing, which is unendowed, except that the school-house was erected by the subscriptions of the heritors and pa- rishioners. Besides these, there are one or two schools taught by fe- males, where the instruction is of a very elementary kind. At the parish school the branches are, English reading, geography, mathe- matics, Latin, writing, book-keeping, and occasionally Greek and FOUGLEN. 91 French. The salary of the schoolmaster is L. 34, 4s. 4^d. His fees average L. 30 yearly. Mortified money in favour of the schoolmaster. — Mr George Bruce, minister of Dunbar, left, in 1793, L. 100 Sterling, the inte- rest of which goes to the schoolmaster, — of whom it is required, as a condition of receiving this money, that he shall read a portion ^ Scripture every Sabbath, between the second and third bells. A copy of the deed of mortification is inserted in the records of the presbytery of TurrifiF. The interest of L. 20 has been left for edu- cating poor children, by Mr George Gerrard. The schoolmaster has also the benefit of the Dick bequest, which may probably yield L. 30 per annum. Most of the inhabitants of the parish can write as well as read, and, as far as is known, there are only three persons (belonging to the same family) who cannot read. The people seem to set a high value on education. The school-house is centrical, in excellent order, having been recently erected ; and no part of the parish is so distant as to prevent the attendance even of young children. When the school is fullest, the numbers are somewhat above 100. The average may be stated between 80 and 90. Some attend from other parishes. There are between 30 and 40 attending the other schools. In the return made to Government in 1834, it is stated that the greatest number which attended the parish school from Ladyday to Michaelmas 1833 was 108; the other schools 40; total 148. Perhaps 8 of these may be from the neighbouring parishes. Suppose then 140 at school, as the population amounts to 820, there is thus about one-sixth receiving instruction. It is only jus- tice to state, that the parish school is most efiectively taught, and that the most recent improvements in education have been introdu- ced with great success by the present schoolmaster, Mr Webster. Sabbath Schools. — On the morning of the Sabbath, before public worship, there is a Bible class for young persons of both sexes, above the age of fourteen, who have attended with much regularity for the last four years, which is the length of time it has existed. Between 30 and 40 take advantage of this means of instruction. The suc- cess which has attended this class has been very considerable. After the dismissal of the congregation, the children meet in the Sabbath school. The greatest number which has attended this school is 78, of whom girls form the larger proportion. It is taught by well instruct- ed persons belonging to the parish, superintended by the minister. This school is one of the most important instruments of usefulness 02 BANFFSHIRE. ID the parish, and without any drawback, so far as has yet been ex- perienced. It has studded the church with young faces, which, be- fore it was erected, were very rare. It has rendered many of the children familiar with the Scriptures, and, it is hoped, will ultimate- ly, in a similar manner, affect the whole youthful population. It has brought the minister acquainted with the names, £aices, and dispo- sitions of this important portion of his parishioners, and affords him every Sabbath an opportunity of conyersing with them in a familiar way, of taking advantage of every local dispensation and occurrence, and speaking home to their consciences, while it also does good to parents, partly by the good feeling which it excites in them towards the instructor of their children, and reflexly, by stirring them up to the study of the Scriptures, and to a more tender walk and con- versation on account of the improved knowledge and growing ac- quaintance with Christian character on the part of the children* The Sabbath school is at present taught in the church ; but as this has been found inconvenient, the parishioners are now engaged in erecting a building near the church for Sabbath instruction. Poor* — The following statement b to be found in the session- book about the middle of the last century : Income — The session had at interest L. 786, Ids. 4d. Scots, (about L. 65 Sterling); the in- come from collections, &c. L. 50 Scots, about L.4 Sterling; income from interest on capital, L.d9, 6s. 8d. Scots; collections, &c L. 50 ; total L. 89, 6s. 8d., about L. 7 Sterling. — Expenditure: — 4 paupers that can do nothing, L. 104 Scots; 9 paupers that can do a little, L. 140, 8s.; total L. 244, 8s., about L. 20 Sterling. To meet this they had one-half of collections and interest of capital, L. 3, 10s. Sterling; from the heritors, L. 16, 10s.; total L.20. The other half of collections was used for occasional and accidental cases of charity. By some notices in the parish records, it appears that it was not unusual in early times to give the Sabbath collections to travelling mendicants. In 1723, the poor funds were distributed twice in the year, and at that time the number of poor receiving regular assist- ance was 7. In 1755, the number of the poor had increased to 1 1. At both of these periods, the population seems to have been about 600. The daily collection averaged between 15s. and 168. Scots money, and the annual allowance to each pauper was from L. 17 to L. 18 Scots. As the subject of pauperism is intimately connected with morals, and every fact which tends to illustrate the system pursued in Scot- land is of value, the following tables are subjoined : FORGLEN. 93 List of particulars regarding the poor in the parish of Forglen for thirty years previous to 1884. 1. No. ofre- 2. No, of 3* No,qf re- 4. No, of 6. Yearly aVffw- rears. gularpoor. occasional gular do» who occaHonal do. once for do. in poor. died each year. do. meal and money. 1805, 19 1 L. 20 10 9 1806, 18 1 1 21 19 9 1807, 18 21 4 3 1808» 18 2 1 89 2 6 1809. 19 2 34 8 6 .1810, 21 6 2 35 16 H 1811, 21 6 41 4 10 1812, 23 3 62 7 9| 181 d, 25 5 2 41 2 7f 1814, 25 6 2 60 2 10 1815, 25 5 53 17 6 )ai6. 24 10 eo 18 10 1817, 29 12 2 74 14 8 1818, 27 3 1 47 13 11 1819, ao 11 2 61 16 d| 1820, 28 14 2 2 59 6 If 1821, 27 7 1 5 4P 11 9 1822, 26 18 1 50 1 2 1823, 27 16 1 59 14 4 1824, 24 10 52 12 10^ 1825, 27 7 2 65 17 7i 1826, 27 9 1 53 11 9 1827, 24 6 2 58 14 3^ 1828, 23 3 2 1 55 17 6 1829, 20 2 I 53 2 11 i8ao. 20 10 9 68 3 1 1831, 19 7 1 1 68 15 IH 1832, 20 10 1 87 9 10 1883, 2» 11 2 2 64 8 9 In this table it will be observed^ that, while the number of poor remains nearly the same, the allowance Yaries>— -a circumstance which is to be accounted for, by the difference in the price of pro- visions, the severity of the season, and the occasional opening up of unexpected resources. The large sum spent in 1832 was ow* ing to the prevalence of cholera in the country, when, to prevent the parish being visited by it, so &r as human means could effect this^ the session made large distributions of clothing. There was not a case of that vinilent disease in the parish. The table which follows exhibits the time when the paupers now receiving assistance were taken upon the roll : A 1803 H 1819 O 1831 B 1814 I 1820 P 1831 C 1815 J 1820 Q 1831 D 1817 K 1822 R 1833 £ 1817 L 1822 S 1833 F 1817 M 1822 G 1818 N 1830 In this list, all except one are females. The exception is a young man unable to gain a livelihood by a disease which seems incurable. So little is now given for the work of aged females. 94 BANFFSHIRE. that when they have become incapable of hard labour, they are altogether thrown upon the kindness of friends and the funds of the parish. From various circumstances, there is no one who is able and willing to work, who does not find employment. The average sum received by each pauper, yearly, is L. 2, 18s. The amount of contributions for the relief of the poor in 1831 was, from collections at the church, Lw 64, 6s. 8d. ; from legacies, L. 12, 7s. lOd. ; from^ interest of L. 75 mortified money. Lb 3, 15s» ; .totals L. 80, 9s. 6d; Library, — There is a parish library, well selected, oompoeed of works on religious and general subjects ; and it is gratifying to be able to state, that, of late, increased anxiety has been shewn to take advantage of it Savings Bank. — A savings bank was established in 1816. Tak- ing a year at random, there was deposited the sum of L. 195, 19s. 4d. ; there was withdrawn, the same year, the sum of L. 158, 8s. 6d. Investments were for the most part made by servants. Transactions were, for several years, suspended on account of the failure of the chief depository. This was the case when the wri- ter of this account entered on the charge of the parish in the year 1831. Although desirous of commencing a new bank, he found the confidence in these institutions so shaken by what had befallen the former, that he saw it was in vain to attempt it, at least for some time. However, having taken frequent opportunities of ex- plaining their importance, and shown that the late mishap was al- together apart from the principles of the bank, and entirely acci- dental, he ventured to offer to receive deposits in the summer of 1 834 ; and with such success was the proposal attended, that in the course of four months there was deposited above L. 100. The sum in the savings bank at present (1836) is within a few pounds of L. 300. There is this difierence between the present and for- mer savings bank, that no contributions are now received beyond L. 40, nor from any persons not resident in the parish, — neither of which restrictions existed under the former regulations. Inns. — There is no inn or alehouse in the parish ; for resisting the introduction of which, the district is much indebted to the late Sir George Abercromby, and his son, the present Sir Robert. Fuel. — Peat and wood are the chief materials used for fuel. The peat is obtained from the Carnousie property ; the wood from Car- nousie and Forglen. Coals are brought from Banff at the rate of about lOd. the cwt. exclusive of carriage. July 1336. PARISH OF GARTLY. PRESBYTERY OF STRATHBOGIE, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. JOHN ROBERTSON, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Extent^ Botcndariesj Sfc. — The parish of Gartly, though locally in Aberdeenshire, is nevertheless, legally, partly in that county and partly in the county of Banff. It is divided^ nearly in the centre, by the water of Bogie, into what is called the Barony and the Braes. The Barony is in the county of Banff, and pays the land tax in that county, — the Braes are in the county of Aberdeen. This ano- maly is said to have arisen from the circumstance, that the pro- prietor of the Barony, Baron Biarclay, one of the feudal barons of the ancient Earls of Huntly, being Sheriff of the county of Banff, used means to get his domains within his own jurisdiction. The parish is of an irregular oblong form, about 12 miles in length from east to west, and 4^ miles in breadth in the middle, and may com- prise about 33 square miles. It is bounded on the east by the pa- rishes of Insch and Kinnethmont ; on the west by Cabrach and Huntly; on the south by Rhynie; and on the north by Huntly and Drumblade. Topographical Appearances. — The boundaries on the east and west sides are hilly and chiefly covered with heath, the moors on both sides are extensive, and abound with grouse, &c and have for some years past been let to gentlemen from the other side of the Tweed, as shooting-grounds. From the mosses on these hills, not only the inhabitants of the parish, but also of the town of Huntly, are in a great measure supplied with fueL The mosses on the east side of the parish are now almost exhausted ; but on the west side they are so deep and extensive as to be almost inexhaustible. From these hills, many small brooks fall into the Bogie. The valleys supplied by these brooks are very fertile, as well as the lands on both sides of the Bogie. The surface is, in many places, beautifully diversified with hill and dale. Some of the glens are exceedingly beautiful and picturesque. The glen of Tillyminnet, in particular, which 96 BANFFSHIRE. appears among the surrounding hills like an oasis in the desert, has been frequently visited and admired by persons of taste from various parts of the kingdom. Near the manse, there is a very curious little hill called ^^ the Riggin/' from its resemblance to the ridge of a house. It is about 500 yards in length, and about 40 feet in height It has evidently been formed by the action of wa- ter, as it contains large masses of water sand, and an immense quantity of smooth and rounded stones. It is not unlikely that, in the course of ages, this singularly curious formation may have been raised by irruptions of the Bogie, in conjunction with torrents from the hills produced by sudden thaws after great falls of snow or long continued falls of rain. The climate of the parish is rather cold, whidi may be accounted for partly from its high latitude, and partly from its particular situation among the hills, which are quite destitute of wood; indeed, there is scarcely any wood in the parish except on the banks of the Bogie, which are covered with alder — a beautiful birch wood at the glen of Tilly minuet and three or four sooall young platttatioas. The numerous instances of longevity in the parish, however, afford ample evidence thai the climate, though cold, is heakhy. Springs^ S;c^ — The parish abounds with perennial springs of excel- lent soft water, and also with numerous very fine chalybeate springs. The Bogie takes its rise in Auchindoir, and after winding its course of about 14 miles, through the parishes of Rhynie and Oartly, unites with the Deveron a little below Huntly, and finds its way into the sea at Banff. Geology and Mineralogy, — In regard to minerals, this parish has little to boast, with the exception of slate. Granite, a little lime- stone and schistus, or clayslate, are here and there met with, suf- ficient for the purposes of building houses and stone fences; but the limestone is so small in quantity, and so deeply seated, that no quar- ries have been opened, as the farmers can obtain lime from the quar- ries of Ardonald in the neighbouring parish of Caimie, at a cheap- er rate. Several of the bills, however, abound with excellent slate, and many quarries have been opened, which not only yield con- siderable rent to the proprietor, but afford employment to a num- ber of industrious labourers, who frequently obtain good wages from the tacksmen. The soils are various. In the Braes, and on the haughs along the Bogie, the soil is, in general, a sharp loam with a considerable portion of sand, and the subsoil either sand or clay. In 3 GARTLY. 97 the Barony, it is light and sandy, and commonly rests upon a gravel- ly bottom or kind of hard till, which is very difficult to pierce. 11. — Civil History. Many of the natives of this parish have risen to respectable rank in the military and medical departments, and many of them have done honour to the church established in our land. The late Dr Moodie of Edinburgh was born at Kirkstyle, during the time that a manse was building for his worthy father, then parish minister, whose memory is still held in veneration by some of the aged in- habitants — who speak of him as an able and faithful minister of the New Testament. Parochial Registers. — Parochial registers of births and mar- riages have been preserved from about the commencement of the last century, and kept with tolerable regularity up to the present time. Antiquities. — The principal antiquity in the parish is an old ruin called Castle of Gartly. In Chalmerses Life of Mary Queen of Scots, it is stated, that this beautiful but unfortunate princess, on her re- turn from an excursion to Inverness and Ross-shire, ^^ repassed through the country of the Gordons, which had once been held out as so frightful. She remained a night at Gartly, where there is still a ruined castle, and the parish whereof belongs even now to the Duke of Gordon." — The sites of four. Roman Catholic cha- pels are still pointed out in the Braes, namely, at Heathery hillock, Brawlinknows, Tilly throwie, and Kirkney ; and the vestiges of some of them and of the burial-grounds thereto attached are still visible. There were, of late years, a number of tumuli on a piece of ground called '^ the buried men's legs" on the farm of Mill-hill, near the church, where a skirmish was fought after the battle of Harlaw, in the flight of a party of Highlanders in 1411. Several of the cairns were cleared away, about thirty-five years ago ; and in one of them were found the remains of two dirks, the handles of which were pretty entire, but the blades much decayed. In another, were found two large brass buckles about four inches broad, probably used in buckling their claymores. There was also lately found, in a cairn on the farm of Faich-hill, an urn containing bones ; and a large one pret- ty entire on the farm of Riskhouse. The present farmer of Cock- ston, within these last few years, found on his &rm an earthen pot containing round pieces of stamped leather, which was supposed to have been used in ancient times as coin, — ^but in such a state of decay, that they mouldered away at the touch. A stone coffin was lately found by Captain Gordon of the Royal Artillery on his farm BANFF. G 98 BANFFSHIRE. of Goldran. There is an eminence on a hill between Corncattarach and Malsach hill, called Yaiken or Oaken Bank^ said to have been covered in ancient times with oak wood, and from which it is re- ported that the cupples of the old church were taken. — The re- mains of some oak trees are still to be seen in one of the mosses, and also of fir-trees of considerable size. — The ashes of the Vis- count of Aboyne and several of his followers, and of John Gor- don, laird of Rothiemay^ who were burned in the old tower of the House of Frendraught, in the parish of Forgue, in 1630, (as related by Spalding,) were buried in a vault in the church of Gartly, which is still to be seen. There is a tradition, which appears to be well- founded, that that merry monarch, James I. of Scotland, who was in the habit of visiting different parts of the kingdom in disguise, in one of his rambles, spent a night at a place called ^^ Muirellis." The gudeman was so well pleased with the humour and jokes of the royal incog, that he ordered the gvdewife to kill '* the hen nearest the cock" for a repast to his pleasant companion. The King, on the other hand, was so much pleased with the kindness and hos- pitality of his entertainer, that he obtained a grant from the Earl of Huntly, that he and his descendants should occupy the pos- session rent free, which it is said they did, for many generations. There is also a tradition that an infant son of the Baron of Gart- ly was drowned, on returning from being baptized at the chapel of Brawlinknows, when the water of Bogie was flooded after a great fall of rain ; and the place where it was said the infant was drown- ed, is still called « Lord John's Pot" III. — Population. The number of inhabitants in this parish, about fifty or sixty years ago, was much greater than it is at present. It was in 1755, . 1S28 1783, - 2000 1703» - . 1800 At the census before last, it fell to 979. This decrease can only be imputed to the principal tenants extending their farms and re- moving their cottagers. It has, however, since that time increas- ed considerably, and is now 1 136. This increase has chiefly arisen from the additional number of labourers lately employed at the slate quarries, many of whom are married and have families. The annual average of births for the last seven years is, - - ^ ofmarriageSf ... ... 10 Number of persons under 1 5 years of age,* .... 4^ between 15 and 30, - - - - 291 90 and 50, - - - - 181 60 and 70, 150 above 70, . - • - 28 GARTLY. 99 The aTerage number of children iu each family is nearly 3 ; the number of blind in the parish, 2; of deaf and dumb, 1. Number of fiimilies in the parish, - . . . ^15 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - - 143 in trade, manufactures, or handicraft, 50 During the last three years there have been 12 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The parish contains about 1 4,627 Scotch acres, of which 4325 are under cultivation, and 10,t302 in pasture, wood, moor, and moss. Many of the moors are well calculated for grow- ing wood, and, were they planted, would tend not only to beautify the country, but also to afford shelter and improve the climate. The only undivided common in the parish is the Malshach hill and its adjoining moors, which are common to all the tenants in the barony ; but few of them avail themselves of this privilege, as the pasture is rather poor. A considerable part of the moor, howover, might be cultivated with advantage. The average rent of acr^le land is about L. 1 Sterling per Scotch acre. Wages, — Men-servants receive from L. 5, 5s. to L. 6, 6s« in the half-year; women for summer, from L. 2 to L.d, and in winter from L. 1, 5s. to L. 1, Ids. ; herds from L. 1 to L. 2, all with victu- als. Country wrights, who go from house to house, receive from Is. dd. to Is. 6d. a-day ; masons are generally employed by the rood, and their charge is from L. 1 to Ii. 1, I4s. per rood for plain ruble work : slaters charge from 12s. to Ids. per rood; blacksmiths, when they afford material, charge from 4d. to 8d. per lb. for made work, and Is. a-day with victuals. Husbandry. — Since the introduction of turnip husbandry, cattle have been much improved, and more attention than formerly is now paid to the best breeds. The old Aberdeenshire breed cros- sed by the Argyleshire is undoubtedly best suited for the district. There are only a few farmers about the hill-sides who keep sheep; and it is not believed that there are above 1600 or 1800 sheep in the parish, which are generally of the black-faced kind. The common duration of leases is nineteen years, which is consi- dered as sufficiently favourable to the occupier. Much improvement has been recently made upon many of the farm-steadings, and a considerable part of the waste land has been drained and improved. In the year 1828, George Gordon, Esq. in Bucharn, obtained the Highland Society's honorary gold medal, for 160 acres of land im- proved on that farm, during the seven preceding years. This gen- L.7600 2692 865 1518 15 i:fl8 100 BANFFSHIRE. tleman and a few others have also subdivided and enclosed their fields with very substantial stone dikes ; but in general very little has been done in the way of enclosing, though this is one of the greatest improvements for the country. Produce, — The average produce of ffrain of all kinds may be reckoned about 10,000 bolls,— value, .... 432 acres of turnip, ...... 108 do. of potatoes, .... 60760 stones of hay, - - ... Value of pasture, .... L. 13,793 15 V. — Parochial Economy. There are neither villages nor market-towns in the parish. The nearest market-town is Huntly, which is about four miles from the parish church, but only about one mile from that part of the pafisji which is bounded by Huntly. The means of communica- tiftji enjoyed by the parish are tolerably good. Some of the by- hoalds, as it may be supposed, are very indifferent in winter or after much rain ; but as there are about four miles of turnpike on the line of road from Huntly to Rhynie and Kinnethmont, on which two public coaches travel daily, and about one mile and a-half through the Foudland hills, which on the one side joins the turnpike road from Huntly to Aberdeen, and on the other leads to the vil- lage of Insch in the Garioch,— the parish, upon the whole, enjoys considerable facilities in the way of communication with the prin- cipal market-towns to which the farmers have occasion to resort Ecclesiastical State. — -The kirk was built in the year 1621, but it has at different periods undergone so many repairs and changes that, with the exception of the steeple, there is perhaps very little of the old building now remaining. It was new seated, and otherwise substantially repaired, about twelve years ago. It is nearly centrical to the greater part of the population, though the extreme distance of a small part of it, on one side, is near- ly seven miles, and on the other about four. It affords accommoda- tion for about 550 persons, and the sittings are all free. A very sub- stantial and commodious new manse was built in the year 1821. The glebe, including the garden and sites of the manse and offi- ces, is about eleven Scotch acres, and may be estimated at about L. 16 a year. The stipend is fourteen chalders of victual, one-half in barley, and the other in meal, with L. 8, 6s. 8d. for affording communion elements. Number of families attending the Establish- ed Church about 160; persons of all ages, 500; number of Dissent- GARTLY. 101 mg families, 10; of persons, 34 ; Episcopalian, 1; Roman Catho- lic, 1 ; of families, in which persons attending the Established Church and dissenters are nearly equal, 9; average number of com- municants in the Established Church, 400. With the exception of prayer meetings, of which there are five or six in the parish, there are no societies for religious purposes established in the pa- rish, as it is near Huntly, where there are flourishing Bible and missionary societies, of which a considerable number of the people vof this parish are members, and to which they contribute pretty liberally. The average amount of church collections for religious and charitable purposes, exclusive of the weekly Sabbath collec- tions for the poor, may be about L. 10 Sterling a year.* Education. — There is only one regular permanent school in the parish, namely, the parochial; but there are generally one or two schools taught by females for the benefit of young children, and the instruction of girls in sewing; and duHng the winter, one or two teachers are frequently engaged for instructing the children of such families as are at a distance frpm the parish school, in reading, writing, and arithmetic. These branches, together with Latin and ^he elements of mathematics, are taught at the parish school. The general annual expense of education is, for reading, 10s. ; reading and writing, 12s. ; arithmetic, 16s. ; Latin, L. 1 ; mathematics, &c. .L. 1, 10s. The children between six and fifteen years of age are in general taught to read, and the greater part of them also to write. Children above ten years of age could generally attend school, with the exception of three families, whose distance from it is about seven miles ; but an additional school for these families and others who are more than four miles from school, would be of great conse- quence. The salary of the schoolmaster, including the statutory allowance for a garden, is about L. 32, 10s. and the amount of school fees, L. 1 5. Literature, — There is a parochial library in the parish, consist- ing of upwards of 200 volumes on divinity, history, biography, voy- ages, travels, and on other subjects connected with agriculture, — which has, it is hoped, been instrumental in increasing the intelli- gence and promoting the moral improvement of the people. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of persons re- ceiving parochial aid is 20, and the average sum allotted to each an- nually, nearly L. 2 Sterling. The annual amount of funds for their * Since thin Account was given in, a society for religious purposes has been esta- blished in the parish, which is likely to prosper. 102 BANFFSHIRE. relief is, from church collections, L.25; interest of funds, L. 12; pe- nalties from delinquents, L. 3; total L. 40. Necessity alone compels the poor in general to apply for parochial relief, as i^uch application is almost universally considered to be of a humiliating and degrading nature. Inns. — There is only one inn in the parish, in a situation which renders it necessary for the accommodation of travellers ; and being kept by a person of very decent and respectable character, it is be- lieved that it has produced no bad effects on the morals of the people. MiSCBLLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. Since the last Statistical Account was drawn up, there has been a considerable improvement both in respect of the general intelligence and morality of the people, and the comforts of domestic life. While the price of labour and land rent is nearly double, the price of grain is nearly the same. The value of cattle is indeed greater, but does not afford a'sufficient remuneration to the farmer. The system of husbandry (the seven-shift course) is perhaps, upon the whole, best adapted to the soil, climate, and local circumstances of the parish ; but if agriculture continues in its present depressed state, a reduc- tion of rent would appear to be absolutely necessary to stimulate and reward the industry, and promote the comfort and happiness of the tenantry ; and, as they hold their possessions from a family who have been long distinguished for a regard to their prosperity, there can be little doubt that, if a favourable change does not soon take place in the value of agricultural produce, this boon will not long be withheld, July 1836, PARISH OF MORTLACH. PRESBYTERY OF STRATHBOGIE, AND SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. MORRIS FORSYTH, MINISTER. I. — Topography AND Natural History. Name. — The name is very ancient In the charter given by Malcolm II. about 850 years ago, to the first bishop of this early see, it was called Morthelac or Morthlac. From the situation of the church, which is in a deep and hollow valley, some naturally enough think it is a corruption of the Gaelic word Morlay, great hollow^ — ^while others derive it from Mortislacus, the lake of death, alluding to a battle which was fought here, and which will be no- ticed in its proper place. Various other fanciful etymologies have been given. Extent f Boundaries. — Surrpunded by Glass on the east, Cabrach and Inveraven, including Glenlivat, on the south, Aberlour on the west, — with Boharm and Botriphnie towards the north, ^ it lies 51 miles north-west from Aberdeen, and 30 south from Banff. Its form is irregular ; the greatest length from the head of Glenrinnes to the point where it borders the Spey on the north, is fully 1 1 miles ; and the greatest breadth, from the banks of the Doveran to the foot of Benrinnes may be as much. It is encompassed with hills, the principal of which are Corhabbie and Benrinnes. The latter towers conspicuous above all the others, being distinctly visible from the sea, from which it forms a good land-mark. Its height above the level of the sea is estimated at 2561 feet ; from its base, 1680. Climate^ Springs. — The air is pure and wholesome^ though ra- ther moist than dry. We have several chalybeate springs similar to those of Peterhead. There is one of a petrifying nature be- tween Morthven and Boharm. Besides the Doveran, which merely skirts the parish towards the south, the only two rivulets in the pa- rish, are the Fiddich and DuUen. The former has its source in Glen- fiddich, towards Strathdon, the latter in Glenrinnes, on the bounda- ries of Glenlivat ; they unite about a mile below the church, and^ 104 BANFFSHIRE. after a course of about 5 miles farther northward, run into the Spey. Their whole course may be about 12 or 14 miles. Geology and Mineralogy. — Limestone of good quality is found in the whole district On some of the hills, particularly on the Conval, there is great abundance of granite well suited for build- ing ; and on others, abundance of coarse gray slate. On the burn of the TuUich on the Kininvie property, there is some appearance of alum and lead ; and in one or two other places, there is a lami- nated rock, somewhat of the nature of asbestus. Antimony, in small quantities, is found imbedded in the lime rocks, while their fissures abound in calcspar. Small garnets, too, are sometimes found imbedded in the gray slate near the farm of Parkbeg, on the east side of the Fiddich. The soil is generally loamy, pretty deep, and fertile. Zoology, — Here are plenty of foxes, weasles, hares, badgers and otters. In the Duke of Gordon's forests of Glenfiddich, the red- deer are very numerous ; and at the head of it, there are convenient shooting quarters. Among birds, we have none more uncommon than the blackbird, thrush, goldfinch, bullfinch, linnet, and robin. We have also the migratory cuckoo, lapwing, and swallow ; and in the heath, there are grouse in abundance, and a few ptarmigan and black-cock. II. — Civil History. Shaw's History of the province of Moray contains, if not the most ancient, the best account of the civil history of this parish. Of historical events worthy of observation, the most memorable is that called the battle of Mortlach, in which Malcolm II. ob- tained a complete victory over the Danes, in the year 1010. Mal- colm had suffered a signal defeat from the Danes the preceding year, and was compelled to leave them masters of the lands of Moray. Anxious, however, to expel these daring intruders, he returned, the year following, from the south with a powerful force, and the Danes having intelligence of his motions, came forward to give him battle. The armies having approached each other, in the neighbourhood of the church of Mortlach, engaged a very little to the northward of it In the beginning of the attack, while push- ing on with too ardent an impetuosity, Kenneth, Thane of the Isles, Dunbar, Thane of Laudian, and Graeme, Thane of Strath- earn, were unfortunately slain. Panic-struck by the loss of three of their generals, the Scotch got into confusion. Everything was now in a most doubtful state. The King, who had the character MORTLACH* 105 of a brave, sensible, and pious man, was reluctantly borne along by the retreating crowd, till he was opposite the church of Mortlach, then a chapel dedicated to St Molach. The narrowness of the pass here abated a little the career of the pursuing Danes ; and the fly- ing army having a short space to breathe, were, from the very nature of the ground, again almost necessarily collected. The appearance of the consecrated walls inspired the monarch, in that age of su* perstition, with a devotional impulse. He prayed, paid homage to the Virgin Mary and the tutelary saint, according to the manners of the times, and addressed himself in an animating speech to his countrymen and fellow-soldiers. At this critical moment, he put himself at the head of his forces, again pressed on the foe, threw Euetus, one of the Danish generals, from his horse, and killed him with his own hand. The charge was vigorously renewed ; and, un- der the mingled influence of patriotism and religion, the Scotch, carrying all before them, achieved the victory. Soon after this de- feat, the Danes left the kingdom. There are some appearances indicating that the final engagement, after rallying, happened a few hundred yards to the south-west of the Castle of Balvery ; and it seems mdre than probable, that the more ancient part of that build- ing was then in existence, for a fort is mentioned as near the field of battle. * Antiquities. — The two old Castles of Auchindown and Balvery de- serve to be mentioned. They are, at present, in a ruinous state, but were, about two hundred years ago, both inhabited. When they were first built, and by whom, is not known. The former stands in a bold and commanding situation, on the banks of the Fiddich, and has, since the year 1535, been in possession of the Gordon family. The latter stands on a beautiful eminence, a little below the confluence of the Fiddich and Dullen, and is now the proper* ty of the Earl of Fife. On its front and over its high and massy gate still remaining, is a motto of the Stewarts, Earls of Athol, descriptive of the savage valour and unhappy circumstances of the times : " Furth Fortuine and Fill thi Fettris." Among some rubbish dug up about fifteen years ago, in the ruins of the Castle of Auchindown, a massive gold ring of three links was found, with a motto inscribed upon it, which, as it could only be read when the rings were in a certain position, seems to have been intended as a puzzle. It is supposed to be in the possession * Vide Fordun, Boetius, &c. 106 BANFFSHIRE. of the Gordon family. Besides these, there are various traditional and sure memorials of the famous battle of Mortlach, which our present limits will only allow us briefly to mention. 1. The vestiges of an intrenchment on the Conval hill, called the Danish Camp. 2. A huge and irregularly rounded stone, now part of the fence about a corn field, said to have been placed over the grave of £u« etus. 3. Near the same place, is a small square piece of ground al- most covered with whins, into which multitudes of the dead were thrown. 4. Three lengths of Malcolm's spear added to the length of the church, in fulfilment of his vow. 5. Three of the Danes' skulls built into the north wall of the church, the moulds of which are to this day quite distinct 6. A large upright stone about seven feet high, on the one side of which are rudely carved the cross and two figures of animals, and on the other side a snake. Modem Buildings. — A small neat Roman Catholic chapel, built a few years ago, and a jail now in progress on the squaite in the village, are the only modern buildings worthy of notice. III. — Population. It would appear, that, about fifty years previous to the date of the former Account, the parish had been considerably more popu- lous than it then was. Since the census of 1821, it has increased, — which has been chiefly owing to the giving of land for feus, on part of Lord Fife's property. The village of Dufilown, which was begun in ldl7, contains 756 souls, and the country partjof the parish 1877 — making a total of 2633. The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 64 ; of deaths, 34 ; and of marriages, 10. An allowance may be made for two or three births omitted to be re- gistered every year. Population under 15 years of age, from Id to 30, 30 to 50, 60 to 70, upwards of 70, 971 574 661 849 78 Total, 2633 Number of bachelors above 50, . unmarried women, above the age of 45, 28 81 Land-oumers. — The proprietors of land of the yearly rent of L. 50 and upwards are 5, viz. The Heir of the late Duke of Gor-* MORTLAGH. 107 don ; Lord Fife ; Mr Leslie of Kininvie ; Mr Gregory of Buch- romb ; and Mr Duff of Drummuir. The only resident heritor is Mr Gregory, Buchromb. Upon the whole, the inhabitants are a sedate and religious people, and in comfortable circumstances. We hear occasionally of poachers in our hills ; but, fortunately, illegal distillation, which at one time was carried on to a great extent in this parish, has of late, from the high fines imposed by the excise on those detected in it, become, it is believed, extinct. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — The gross rental of the parish is^ as nearly as can be ascertained, about L. 4500. Of 35,000, the supposed number of acres in the parish, 5000 may be under cultivation, 80,000 waste or in pasture, of which from 400 to 500 may be capable of im- provement, and 600 under wood, consisting principally of ash, elm, plane, birch, oak, Scotch fir, larch, &c. Rent of Land. — The land is generally rented at about L. 1 per acre, while the expense of grazing is at the rate of L. 2, 2s. per ox, and 2s. 6d. per ewe or full-grown sheep. Bate of Wages. — Day-labourers at farm or other work receive from Is. 6d. to Is. lOd. per day without victuals, in winter from Is. to Is. 4d. ; Wrights per day of ten hours, Is. 8d. to 2s. ; ma- sons, do. Is. lOd. to 2s.; farm-servants by the half year, maintain- ed in the family, men from L. 3 to Ij. 6 ; women from L. 1, lOs. to L. 2, 10s. ; mason-work per rood for workmanship, L. 1 to L. 1, 5s. ; slate do. 12s. to 16s. Live-stock J 8fc. — The sheep are of the black-faced breed, and the cattle a cross between the Highland and Aberdeenshire breed. The state of husbandry is in general good, and of late much spi- rit in improving waste land, draining, &c has been displayed. Quarries. — There are several limestone and slate quarries within the parish, and though there is plenty of granite also, no quarry of this description has been wrought. Produce. — According to a calculation made by an individual of much experience, the annual produce is as follows : Grain raised in the parish, . . . L. 8995 Potatoes, turnips, &c. - - - - 3216 Hay, including grass pasture, - * - - 8000 Gardens and orchards, - - - - 80 The annual thinning of wood, - - - 120 Two Ume works, • , - - - 2000 L. 17,800 108 BANFFSHIRE. V. — Parochial Economy. VUlagej S^c. — In Dufftown, the only village in the parish, there is no regular weekly market ; but grain is brought there for the con- venience of dealers, who from time to time resort to the village. There are five cattle markets annually, which are well frequented. The nearest market-town, properly so called, is Keith, distant ele- ven miles. At Dufftown, there is a daily post which branches off from Craigellachie. The turnpike roads from Mortlach to Elgin, Keith and Fochabers extend six miles through the parish ; but, since the great flood of 1829, both the roads and the bridges over the DuUen and Fiddich have been entirely neglected. Ecclesiastical State. — The minister's stipend is 15 chalders, one- half barley and the other half meal, converted into money at the fiars prices of the county, and L. 8, 6s. 8d. for communion elements. The glebe, worn away at different periods by the inroads of the Dul- len, is, at the present period, about 5 acres in extent An addi- tion was made to the very old manse in 1807. The church, which is indeed venerable, may accommodate 1500 sitters. It was a little modernized by an addition made to it seven years ago. Its walls are most probably as old as the beginning of the eleventh century, and so strong, that they may stand for many years to come. Its situation is convenient for the most populous dis- trict of the parish. At the head of the parish, in Glenrinnes, there is a missionary chapel. The present incumbent, the Rev. Alex- ander Falconer, is paid L. 60 out of the Royal bounty. He has, besides, a free house and garden, with three acres of land. He preaches regularly, and catechises. Near the church, as before- mentioned, stands a handsome Catholic chapel. Of late years, in consequence of several families of that persuasion having taken feus and settled in the village, their numbers have increased, and amount at present to 170. From 40 to 50 of these are from neighbouring parishes. Divine service is regularly attended at the parish church, and the number of communicants never less than 700. There are no dissenting meeting-houses, nor any society for religious purposes, in the parish. Education. — Besides the parochial school, the average number of scholars at which is about 90, there is a school in Glenrinnes, supported by the Committee of the General Assembly, the num- ber of scholars attending which is about 80 in winter, and 30 in sum- mer ; also one in the village, supported solely by school fees, and two in Auchindown, the teachers of which receive annually L. 4 from MORTLACH. 109 the Duchess of Gordon. The parochial schoolmaster has the maxi- mum salary and the legal accommodations. All persons in the pa- rish, of proper age, can read, and almost all write a little. Libraries. — There is a small circulating library in the parish, and also a small library for the use of the children who attend the Sabbath school. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of paupers at present on the roll may be about 60, and these are wholly supported by collections made in the church, which may average from lis. to 12s. weekly, and the interest of 1500 merks bequeathed by Wil- liam Duff, and L. 100 by Mr Alexander Forbes, a native of this parish. The interest of this last sum can only, in terms of Mr Forbes's will, be given to four families annually. Besides the above 1500 merks bequeathed by Mr Duff for behoof of the poor, he also bequeathed 500 merks for behoof of the schoolmaster. Dr John Lorimer, formerly of this parish, left L. 200 for the mainte- nance of a bursar at the school of Mortlach, and L. 200 more to enable him, if so inclined, to prosecute his studies at Marischal College, Aberdeen. It may be proper to observe, that the state- ment given in the former Statistical Account of this parish, of a sum of money having been bequeathed by a gentleman of the name of Moir, for the maintenance of a bursar from this parish, was in- correct. July 1836. PARISH OF ABERLOUR, PRESBYTERY OF ABERLOUR, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. ALEXANDER WILSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. ^ame.— -The name of this parish was originally Skirkdustan^ from the word Shir, meaning, in the original Gaelic, to cut or di- vide, and Du»tan, the name ofits tutelary saint; the whole signify- ing Dustan's division or parish. It takes its modern name of Aber<- lour from its situation, the word literally signifying the locality near the influx of a noisy burr* ; which burn, discharges itself into the Spey, about the middle of the northern boundary of the parish. Boundaries, Extent, Sfc — Aberlour is situated in the western part of the county of Banff; about 34 miles from the county town ; 14 miles from Keith ; 14 from Elgin ; and 5 from Dufftown. The form of the parish nearly resembles a wedge. It extends 9 miles along the southern bank of the Spey, from the hill of Car* ron on the west, to the influx of the Fiddich on the east, forming its northern boundary. Its eastern boundary, which represents the point of the wedge, extends backwards from the junction of the Fid- dich with the Spey, for about a mile of arable ground in a south- east direction ; the line of boundary then rises, in a south-west di- rection, along the summit of the Conval hills, and gradually diverg- es from the Spey, until, reaching the western boundary at the south- western extremity, it makes the greatest breadth of the parish nearly equal to its length. On the north, it is separated from the parishes of Knockando and Rothes by the river Spey ; on the east, from Boharm, by the small river Fiddich ; on the south-east, from Mortlach by the Con- val hills, and the brook DuUan in the vale of Glenrinnes ; and on the west, from Inveraven, by a line that passes from the rivulet Ter- vey over the western shoulder of Benrinnes and the hill of Carron to the river Spey. Topographical Appearances. — There is an almost complete moun- tain chain towards the southern part of the parish, consisting of the ABERLOUR* 111 Blue-hill, east and west Conval hUls, the mountain of Benrinnes, and the broad hill of Cairnakay. This chain extends in an eastern and western direction. The three first mentioned hills belong part- ly to this parish, and partly to Mortlach ; the mountain of Benrin- nes is almost wholly embraced by Aberlour ; and the last mention- ed hill, Cairnakay, which completes the chain, belongs entirely to the parish of Inveraven. Besides these, Aberlour contains part of the hill of Carron, which is situated on the borders of Inveraven, close to the banks of the river Spey, and separated from Benrin- nes by a narrow valley. Benrinnes is a steep and sharp-pointed mountain, as its name from the original Gaelic implies, 2747 feet above the level of the sea, and 1876 feet from its own base. Its south and east sides or acclivities, particularly the south, are very steep, thereby verifying the observation of Bergman, who, in his physical geogra- phy, maintains, that *^ in chains ranging from east to west, the southern acclivity is the steepest." This is the highest hill in the country, for many miles round. From the top may be seen, in a clear day, the Grampian hills to the south, the romantic valley and hills of Glenaven to the west, and to the north, as far as the moun- tains of Ross, Sutherland, and Caithness. It commands a prospect of the sea for many miles along the coasts of Moray and Banff- shires, and forms a useful land-mark on that part of the ocean. A deep and narrow gorge or pass to the east separates this moun- tain from the Convals. This pass, called Glack-harnis, deserves particular notice, on account of its great length, its uniform breadth at the bottom, and the immense height and regularity of the slope on both its sides. The Convals are obtuse and dome-shaped hills, of twin appear- ance, considerably lower than Benrinnes, and entirely covered with heath. Running as an elbow from the western part of the Blue-hill, and to the north of the Convals, lies an elevated patch of land of a hilly description, called Allachie ; but the whole of this is either planted or under cultivation. The main valley is embraced by this elevated land, the Convals and Benrinnes. The southern part of this valley, which partly consists of sloping land at the foot of the Convals, is called the Daugh or district of Edinvillie, and is separated by a brook to the north-east from the land of Allachie ; and by the burn of Aberlour to the north, from the daugh of Ruthrie ; which last, situated in 112 B\NFFSHIRE. the mouth of the valley, and becoming a little elevated to form its northern acclivity, continues at nearly the same level, till within a few hundred yards of the Spey. To the north-west of the daugh of Ruthrie, and at nearly the same level, lies the Daugh of Kinnermony, a small part of which consists of haugh or holm land on the banks of the Spey, commu- nicating with the more elevated parts, by a gentle slope. The Daugh of Carron lies to the west of that of Kinnermony, from which it is separated by a mountain rivulet, which runs in a very deep ravine. A considerable part of this division lies lower than the former, descending gradually from the borders of Inver- aven on the west, and forming a continuation of the valley between Benrinnes and the hill of Carron, already mentioned. Here, to- wards the Spey, there is a considerable extent of fine holm land. To the east of the Daugh of Ruthrie, and separated from it by the bum of Aberlour, lies the elevated land formerly mentioned, called the Daugh of Allachie, and to the east of this last, that of Aberlour, — both descending, by an almost uniform slope of an ele- vation of nine or ten degrees, till within a short distance of the Spey. Close upon the Spey, Allachie contains a little holm land ; and still farther back from the river, a terrace about ten feet above the fprmer, presents a considerable surface of level land extending to the foot of the acclivity. The Daugh of Aberlour also contains a little holm land, and is watered by two rivulets which descend from the Blue-hill, and uniting form the burn called AUachoy ; which burn divides Aber- lour, on the east, from the daugh of Drumfurrich. This last Daugh embraces all the eastern part of the parish si- tuated between the burn of Allachoy and the river Fiddich, and is mostly of a level description, with the exception of a little slop- ing land at the foot of the Blue-hill, and the rising ground of Ta- manurie, near the river, which descends gradually to the south- east, and is entirely cultivated on that side, but falls precipitately to the north-west, where its rocky foot is washed by the Spey. This Daugh also contains two beautiful fields of holm land. The remaining part of the cultivated land belonging to the pa- rish lies in the narrow vale of Glenrinnes ; between which and the main body of the parish, the pass called Glack-harnis, formerly mentioned as separating Benrinnes from the western Conval, opens an almost level communication. The district to the north of the brook Dulnan, which winds in the A6ERLOUR. 113 bottom of the vale, appertains to Aberlour, and contains several good fields, partly level and partly sloping from the foot of the hills. Climate. — The climate of the parish is, on the whole, tem- perate ; along the river, it is warm, — so much so, that there is fre- quently little appearance of snow here, when the surrounding country is covered with it. Those parts in the neighbourhood of Benrinnes and the Ck>nvals, and especially the district of Glenrin- nes, suffer more from Alpine inclemency, than any other parts of the parish. In the commencement of winter, Benrinnes is usually covered with snow, or, as the country people say, *^ has on its night-cap,'' long before any part of the surrounding country. The harvests in the neighbourhood of this and the adjoining hills, and in the district of Glenrinnes, are a few weeks later than in the vicinity of the Spey, partly owing to the traces of winter con- tinuing longer, and partly to the great quantity of rain, which, from the proximity of the hills, &lls there during summer. Although a few weeks of severe drought during summer have been supposed at the time to be injurious to the crops, yet for se* veral years prior to 1835, and, indeed, in general, there has not been much occasion to complain of want of rain in any part of the parish. Hydrography. — Owing to the rapidity of the current^ the Spey IB little broader here than in Badenoch, fifty miles nearer its source, where the water flows more slowly. The fields in the immediate vicinity frequently suffer a little from overflowings of the river; and August 1829 witnessed the greatest and most destructive flood within the memory of any living inhabitant In 1768, the water is recorded to have risen eighteen feet perpendicu^ lar above its ordinary level, but this was exceeded in ] 829 by about eighteen inches. All the holm land belonging to the parish wa9 more or less injured, along with the crops that it bore at the time, — the soil of some fields being carried off to the extent of many acres bare to the channel, and others covered with sand and rough gra- vel to the depth of several feet. The dry stone arches which formed the eastern approach to the metal bridge of Craig Ellachie (to be noticed hereafter,) were entirely swept away, leaving only a few yards of mason work to be a precarious support to that end of the arch. A cottage, garden, and offices near the foot of the bridge were entirely carried off; and much damage was done to furniturQ BANFF. H 114 BANFFSHIRE. and property in other parts of the parish by the water, which stood to the height of four or five feet in some dwelling-houses. There is a beautiful cascade called the Lynn of Ruthrie, on the Burn of Aberlour, about a mile above where it runs into the Spey. The stream, after occupying several yards of a smooth channel worn out by the water in the solid rock, is precipitated from a height of thirty feety and, being broken in its fall about the middle of this heiglu^ by a projecting platform of the same rock, falls into a cir- cular pool or basin below, formerly of immense depth, but now greatly filled up by the boulders and debris brought from the hills in the flood of 1829. The rock, which is of red granite, rises to a great height above the fall ; and with its sylvan cover of birch and other shrubs presents, along with the fall, a very romantic and beautiful appearance. Soil, 8fc. — The few fields of holm land, formed by the river, con- sist of a rich deep loam mixed with sand. A little farther from the river, a like mould occurs on a bed of rough gravel. To- wards the foot of the hills, in the east and middle parts of the pa- rish, the soil becomes a deep clay on a bed of gravel, covered with a thin alluvial soil ; and towards the foot of Benrinnes, there oc- curs a good deal of moss on patches lately improved from heathy surfaces. About the centre of the parish, there is a good deal of rich alluvial soil on granite rock, and there is still more soil, of the same productive nature, on alternate beds of clay and gravel, to- wards the eastern and western extremities of the parish, at the same distance from the river. The soil of that part of Glenrin- nes which belongs to Aberlour consists partly of loam and partly of clay, upon a pretty uniform rock of limestone, and averages from one to three feet in depth. No lime-rock is found in this parish or Inveraven, north of the mountain chain ; but south of the chain, the parishes of Mortlach, Aberlour in Glenrinnes, and Glenlivat in Inveraven, are pervaded by that useful rock, which runs in a continued vein through the whole of these districts. Mortlach supplies great part of Aberlour with lime at 2s. per boll, which answers the purposes of the farmer better here than in limestone districts, by rendering the soil very productive. The farmers in the upper part of the parish, from their near locality to Glenrinnes, prefer driving limestones from a quarry there, which they burn for themselves on their own farms. The difference of soil in the Glenrinnes district, from that near the ^^^ A.BERLOUR. 115 Spey, has likewise, as well as tlie difference of climate, formerly men- tioDed, a marked effect on the period and continuance of vegetation. in the latter situation, where the soil is comparatively light and sandy , vegetation is early, but the growth of grass, &c. generally begins to fail by midsummer ; whereas in the more retentive soil of Glen- rinnes, vegetation is but partial until the day is longest ; but here the grazing continues good in autumn, when the fields on Spey side are comparatively bare. Zoology. — The migratory birds, the cuckoo, lapwing, and swal- low, make their appearance here at stated seasons during spring and summer, and disappear towards autumn, sometimes a little earlier or later, according to the comparative mildness of the season. The woodcock, too, generally appears in autumn, and disappears again about the end of April. Roe*deer may be found on the hill of Carron, and black-cock may be generally found there, although not very numerous. Partridges, plover, grouse, and hares abound on the hills of the parish, particularly Benrinnes, which is under- stood to be the nursery of game, to the moors of the surrounding country, to a great distance. There are also snipes and wild ducks to be found in the vale of Glenrinnes. White hares, ptarmigans, and eagles are sometimes seen on the top of Benrinnes. Foxes and wild cats still exist in the parish, but are becoming more rare. There is good salmon and trout fishing in the Spey and Fid- dich. Several pools in the former opposite to this parish are sup- posed to equal any other, for rod-fishing, in the whole course of that river. The fishing commences on the 1st of February, and closes on the 14th September; and a little after the latter period, the fish come up for spawning, and, sometime before the former, they re- turn again to the sea. During the time of spawning, a small bird called the water-cock abounds in the Spey and its tributaries, which is considered very destructive in diving and picking up the spawn. Formerly any person^ who succeeded in killing one of these birds, was allowed, as a reward, the privilege of fishing in the close sea* son ; but, for a long time back, this has been lost sight of. Plantations, — There are several thriving plantations of firs on the hilly parts of the districts of Aberlour, AUachie, and Carron, with some elm and ash trees nearer the river, the banks of which are, in many parts, covered with birch of a remarkable size. 116 BANFFSHIRE. II. — Civil History. This parish ean boast of no remarkable antiquities. Land'-oumers. — It belongs to four proprietors, Lord Fife; James William Grant, Esq. of Wester Elchies ; Alexander Grant, Esq. of Aberlour ; and the Earl of Seafield. Lord Fife is the greatest land-owner, and the Earl of Seafield the least, the latter posses^ sing only the small property of Mudhouse. Aberlour is the only family seat in the parish. Parochial Registers. — A parochial register has been regularly kept since the year 1707, down to the present time, with the ex- ception of some trifling blanks during the troublesome period of 1745. A registration of marriages, births, and deaths was uni*- formly made at the commencement of this period; but that of deaths has been discontinued for the last seventy-six years. Modem Buildings. — Near the influx of the burn of Aberlour, on the daugh of AUachie, stand the roofless walls of the old church; and about 300 yards farther to the east, on the same plain, is si- tuated the new church, a handsome and commodious building, erected in 1812. About the same period, Charles Grant, Esq. of Wester Elchies, commenced the building of a village on this plain, embracing all the holm land of the district to the extent of half a mile in length, and erected it into a borough of barony, under the name of Charlestown of Aberlour. This village now contains 250 inhabi* tants, and has four markets in the course of the year, held respec- tively on the first Thursday of April, Thursday before the 2l8tQf May, second Thursday of July, and second Thursday of Novem- ber. IIL — Population. The population of this parish in 1792, was I8U1, IBll, 1821, 1831, Yearly average of marriages for the last se^en yearsi births, . - _ Average number of persons under 90 years of age. Several individuals are in the enjoyment of good health at the age of 80 and 85, and two or three have attained the advanced age of 90. Character and Habits of the People.-^^The English language is universally spoken in the parish, and a very few families and ser- vants, originally from Highland districts, are capable of using the Gaelic language. The people are decidedly sober, and in- 920 815 923 1063 1276 . 8 •• 30 « 614 ABBRLOUR. 117 duitriotts ib thmr habits^ neat aod cleanly in their persons, and temperate in their diet, which, although animal food is occa« sionally used in the poorest families, principally consists, among the labouring classes, of milk and vegetable fare of their own pro- duce« They are in general contented and comfortable in their circumstances. Nor are they behind their neighbours, in point of shrewdness and intelligence. They are, in general, very well in- formed according to their station in life, and the tone of their minds may certainly be considered as moral and religious* A consider- able change for the better in these respects is understood to have taken place since the suppression of smuggling,-^a case of which is now scarcely ever heard of within the l^ounds of the parish. IV. — Industry. The cultivated parts of the parish, which may be about one^half of its whole extent, and a great proportion of which has been im- proved within the last twelve years, are divided into farms, of from L. 10 to L. 100 of yearly rent, generally under leases of nineteen years' duration. Some of the farms are inclosed by good stone fences, and the farm-buildings are in general substantial and com«« tidodious. Bent ofLand.^^The average rent per acre may be reckoned at L. 1, 68., inclusive of permanent pasture susceptible of cultivation, the extent of which may be again estimated at about one-twen- tieth part of what is under the plough. Some moors, too, in the centre of the parish may be under cultivation in the course of years. The soil, with due culture, is in general capable of raising all sorts of grain, barley, oats, wheat, pease, &c. ; and it is remarked, that the average weight of barley here is from a pound and a-half to two pounds more per bushel than in the heavier soils of the neighbouring parishes Mortlach and Glass. All the farmers raise black-cattle of the Morayshire breed, and those near the hills keep a flock of sheep of the hardy black-faced kind; but, on the whole, grain is the staple commodity the farmer has to depend on. Prices, — Within the last two years, the price of oats has varied from 168. to L. 1, 2s. per quarter ; barley from L. 1, Is. to L. 1, 4s. Rate of fVaffee.-^The rate of wages to farm-servants may be stated as follows: for a first or principal man, L. 6 per half year; a ploughman, L. 4, 10s. ; and maid-servants from L. 1, 10s. toL. 2, all inclusive of lodging and maintenance. Tradesmen's wages are moderate, mason and carpenters' work being furnished by es- 118 BANFFSHIRE. timate, — which system is understood to have lowered the expense to less than one-half, within the last twelve years. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — The parish has enjoyed the ad- vantage of a sub-post-ofBce to Morilach, ever since the year 1803 ; and in addition to this, a first-office was established, some years ago, at Craig Ellachie, which now conmiunicates daily with a principal office at Ballindalloch through Aberlour, and also with the two sub- offices of Dufftown and Rothes. The means of communication have been greatly improved by a toll-road, which was made in 1817, and runs through the whole extent of the parish, from the bridge of Fiddich to the hill of Carron on the borders of Inveraven. An- other very useful road was made last season, in the south, or Glen- rinnes part of the parish, running through that vale from Duff- town in Mortlach to Glenlivat and Tomintoul. Ecclesiastical State. — It has been formerly stated, that a new parish church was erected in the year 1812. This contains 700 sittings, all free. It is, at present, in good repair, apd is con- veniently situate for the attendance of the greater part of the parish, — being, with the exception of Glenrinnes, not more than three miles and a-half distant from its farthest extremity in an east and south direction, and little more than four from the far* thest habitation on the west, or Inveraven side. The whole population belong to the Established Church, with the exception of a few Seceders and Independents, who likewise at- tend divine service occasionally in the church. The manse is a very old building. It was, many years ago, pro- nounced, by decreet of presbytery, to be insufficient ; and having sustained considerable damage by the flood in 1829, which re- duced it to an entirely ruinous condition, the incumbent was al- lowed, in lieu of a new manse, an annuity for seven years from that date. A great part of the glebe land was carried off bare to the chan- nel, and in order to protect the remaining part, and preserve its former boundaries, two bulwarks were erected by the heritors at a great expense in 1830 ; one on the Spey, about 500 yards above the glebe land, and the other on the burn of Aberlour, where it forms the boundary of the glebe, and near its junction with the Spey. Although that part of the field that was injured is entirely use- less in the meantime, yet, it is hoped that the stagnant water re- ceived periodically in*the excavated parts behind the bulwarks, 4 ABBRLOUB. 119 from the repeated risings of the Spey, will, by leaving successive layers of alluvial deposit, produce a tolerable soil in the course of time. The stipend is 14^ chalders of grain, one-half barley, and one- half oatmeal, with L. 8> 6s. 8d. for communion elements. There is a missionary establishment in the valley of Glenrinnes, for the accommodation ofthat remote part which belongs to Aber- lour, as well as the remainder of the vale appertaining to Mort- lach. There is a neat and commodious chapel at this station, and the minister, who is an ordained clergyman of the Church of Scot- land, receives L. 60 per annum from the Royal Bounty, and is pro- vided by the heritors with a manse, glebe, and some other little accommodations. He performs every parochial duty in his dis- trict, with the exception of administering the sacrament. There are about 460 communicants yearly at the church, inclusive of this district Divine service is usually very well attended, both at the church and the missionary station of Glenrinnes. Education. — There is one parochial school and a female school in Charlestown for the accommodation of the main part of the parish, — the district of Glenrinnes being supplied by an Assem- bly school in that place. The branches of education taught in the parish school are, Latin, geography, arithmetic and elementary mathematics, writing, English grammar, and English reading, with the principles of Christian knowledge. At the female school, sewing, knitting, and English reading are taught; and English reading, arithmetic and writing, being the branches most required in the country, are taught in the Assem- bly's school of Glenrinnes. The salary of the parish schoolmaster is the maximum, L. 34, 4s. 4^d. and the school fees average from L. 10 to L. 15 per annum. The schoolmistress has a free house, a garden, and a small croft of land, from the proprietor, Mr Grant of Elchies, which, along with the school fees and the proceeds of her own industry in dress-making, form her only dependence. The parochial schoolmaster has the legal accommodations, but, in common with most of his brethren, finding these insufficient, he has lately built a small addition to his dwelling-house at his own expense, in the hopes, that, when fiirther accommodation shall have been granted to the schoolmasters in general, he may be re- imbursed for his outlay. The school fees are very moderate, and 120 BANFFSHIRE. the people in general appear sensible of the benefits of education, the poorest of the parish contriving to keep their children some time, more or less, at school, — in which and similar cases, education is given gratis. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of the poor upon the roll may be stated at 30, who receive pecuniary assist- ance now and then, according to their respective necessities, and as far as the funds will admit The weekly collections at the church here average about 7s*, and at the chapel of Glenrinnes about 2s., one-third of which last falls to Aberlour, and, in conse- quence, the poor of Glenrinnes have an equal claim with the rest of the parish upon the session funds. Besides the weekly collec- tions, the poor derive assistance from a mortification of S^ bolls of meal, payable yearly, off a small farm belonging to the Earl of Fife. The sums thus realized from time to time, along with the interest on two bequeathments of 100 merkseach, as also that arising from small sums occasionally put to interest in times of plenty, and penalties for immoralities, form a supply scarcely adequate to meet the wants of the poor, even without taking into account the burden of two pauper lunatics, who, though mainly supported by the heritors, have, for many years, been receiving aid from the funds. Application is seldom made for relief, without ne- cessity on the part of the applicant ; but, on the other hand, it fre- quently happens that unobtrusive individuals of delicate feelings are disposed to suffer considerable destitution, before making their case known ; but the members of session endeavour, as far as in their power, to find out such cases, and give assistance in a manner the least offensive. Distillery. — In concluding this account of parochial economy, it may be stated, that there is one whisky distillery, on a large scale, in the parish, situated at Aberlour, which is considered an accom- modation to the surrounding farmers, in affording a ready and conve- nient market for their barley. There are two or three houses of entertainment in the parish, for which spirit licenses are annually granted, besides two principal imis^ namely, the New Inn, situated in Charlestown, and the Cottage Inn, only separated from the vil« lage by the burn of Aberlour. i^^/,— In the southern and western parts of the parish, there is a good and convenient supply of peat for fuel, but the village ^nd parts to tfie eastward are farther removed from the moss. In ABERLOUR. 121 the village, a load of peats costs from Is. 6d. to 2s. dd. according to the quality. Miscellaneous Observavions. On comparing the present state of the parish with that exhibited at the termination of the last century, it appears, that a great addition has been made to its cultivated parts, as well as a great improve* ment in the method of culture adopted. These, in addition to the erection of the village of Charlestown, and the increased facility of communication by means of the toll-road formerly mentioned, form the most striking variations between the state of the parish at that time and its present state. The bridge of Craig Ellachie over the Spey, near the eastern extremity of the parish, likewise adds most materially to the ao commodation of the whole country south of that river, by opening up a communication to the Elgin markets, and to Garmouth, the chief grain market for this quarter ; from which last place too, this part of the country ii most conveniently supplied with coals. This bridge was erected in the year 1815, at an expense of L. 8000, raised partly by subscription, and partly by voluntary assessment, along with L.4000 from Government; and in consequence there never was any pontage exacted. It consists of a single metal arch upwards of 160 feet in span, resting, on the north or Knockando side, on a solid rock, which gives name to the bridge, and on a strong pillar of mason work built on piles, on the east or Aberlour side. In the Knockando approach, the road was cut in the solid rock to the height of 70 feet in the immediate vicinity of the bridge, and upwards of 100 yards in length. Besides its advantage to the country, which is universally acknowledged to be very great, the appearance of the bridge, along with the majestic perpendicular rock frowning over its western approach, is very grand and impos- ing — adding greatly to the effect of the surrounding beautiful and picturesque scenery. — It is frequently visited by strangers as an object of curiosity. With respect to the improvements, of which the parish may be still considered susceptible, the chief regards the communication between its main body and the district of Glenrinnes. A road on this line would be highly beneficial to every part of the parish, by increasing the &cility of driving limestone from Glenrinnes, and peat fuel from the foot of Benrinnes, to the district of Edinvillie, and those parts in the vicinity of the Spey, and also by affording 122 BANFFSHIRE. ihe tumers of Glenrinnes a more direat communicatioii to a mar- ket for their grain. The present substitute for a road is a rough cart track, running through the district of Edinvillie and Glack- hamis, almost impassable, especially after the severe winter floods ; but such is the necessity of having a road on this line, that much expense has been already laid out upon it, by temporary repairs yearly, partly by allocation of small sums from the road funds, and partly by private subscription. It is in contemplation, however, to make a road near the pre« sent track, to communicate with the Aberlour toll-road, a little to the west of the manse at one of its extremities, and to join, at its other extremity, the road that has lately been made in Glenrin- nes ; as also another branch to run from Edinvillie towards the Carron district, with the view of accommodating the western parts of the parish. This road is anticipated with pleasure as a very great improvement The farmers of this parish are spirited according to their means, and some have employed a large capital to good account The system of husbandry adopted is much the same as that pursued in other agricultural districts. Some years ago, the High- land Society gave premiums for the curing of butter, to a district embracing this and five other neighbouring parishes, and the first and second of four prizes were adjudged to Aberlour. The patriotic and praiseworthy exertions of this national society, in the distri- bution of prizes for improvements in husbandry, certainly appear to be attended with those beneficial effects at which they aim : and it is to be hoped, that another competition, lately announced for this quarter, will be met by the good people with that emulation which the society has already^ in a great measure, inspired. July 1836. PARISH OF INVERAVEN. PRESBYTERY OF ABERLOUR, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. WILLIAM ASHER, MINISTER- I. — Topography and Natural History, Namfj Extent^ and Boundaries. — This parish takes its name from the situation of its church, which stands on the south bank of the Spey, about a mile below the junction of the Aven with that river. Stretching back into the Grampians towards the sources of the Don for about 20 miles, with a breadth varying from 3^ to 8 or 9, and lying partly in the county of Moray, but chiefly in the county of Banff, — it is bounded on the north by the parish of Knockando ; on the west by Cromdale and Kirkmichael ; on the south by Strathdon, and that part of Tarland which is at« tached thereto quoad sacra ; and on the east by Glenbucket, Ca- brach, Mortlach, and Aberlour, — with masses of lofty mountains intervening betwixt it and all these parishes except Knockando, in the direction of which the Spey forms the boundary. Topographical Appearances, — Consisting, in by much the larger proportion, of moorland and mountain, this extensive parish has upon the whole a bleak and barren appearance, particularly when entering the lower end of the parish (by the toll-road) from the east ; but along the rivers, near the banks of which both the arable land and natural wood chiefly lie, the prospect is in general pleas- ing, and occasionally highly picturesque and attractive. About three miles back from, and nearly parallel to, the Spey, Caimocay, a lofty range of mountains extending from Benrinnes to the Aven, divides the lower part, or what may be termed Inveraven proper> from Glenlivet, a country well known to most Scotchmen by name, — while some six or eight miles further on, Glenlivet is itself di- vided into nearly equal parts by the Bochle, a high hill rising up in the centre of the valley, flanked on either hand by projecting masses of the neighbouring mountains. These three districts, thus divided by natural boundaries, are pretty equal in point of extent, and have an average population of about 900. The one 124 BANFFSHIRE. above the Bochle, though the flattest part of the parish, is called the Braes of Glenlivet ; below it, the river, or water of Livet, as it is generally termed, runs through the centre of the valley, and then, though comprehending a more level district, called Morange, diverging from the east bank of the river, the country has much more of the characteristics of the true highland glen. In the lower or parish church district, the Aven, which enters the pa- rish from the south-west, and skirts Glenlivet for about a couple of miles, flows on through a narrow strath or glen to the Spey, from which the ascent is not so rapid, there being to the north of Cairnocay a considerable breadth of country sloping gradually to the mountain as well as to the river. Benrinnes, which, though much lower than some others, is al- ways classed among the highest mountains of Scotland, is situated on the eastern or Aberlour boundary, towering to the height of 2763.5 feet (according to the late Government survey) above low mater-mark* This mountain, when seen from Inveraven proper, has rather a tame and heavy appearance, but its aspect from Glenlivet is both imposing and majestic, — while from the top, (where there is a small bason in the rock usually filled with water, and a cave supposed to have been the hiding-place of James Grant of Carron, better known by the name of James au Tuim, or James of the hill,) the prospect is very extensive, stretching, it is said, from Caithness to the county of Dumbarton. The other moun- tains, both within and bounding the parish, are all of considerable altitude, but they present little either in conformation or appear- ance particularly deserving of notice. They consist chiefly of flat unbroken ranges running in a southern and western direction. Climate^ Diseases^ Sfc. — The climate is decidedly different in each of the three districts into which nature has divided the pa- rish, — the coldest, which is that of the Braes of Glenlivet, being perhaps as much inferior to the climate on the river sides, in the parish church district, as the latter is inferior to the climate of the sea coast. Snow, the first indications of which usually manifest themselves on the top of Benrinnes, not unfrequently lies in In- veraven proper, as well as in the upper districts to a great depth, interrupting field operations, and sometimes shutting up the communication, when, at the distance of ten or fifteen miles, not a vestige of hoary winter is to be seen ; still the climate is abun- dantly healthy, and such as to serve in ordinary seasons for bring- ing to maturity the fruits commonly produced in the gardens on 3 INVERAVEN. 125 the coast Vegetation, though commenciDg late, adrances rapidly when stimulated by suranner heat, heightened by the reflection from the mountains, and in &vourable years, of which for the last thirteen there has been little or no interruption, the grain crops produced even in the Braes of Glenlivet might not unfrequently compete, both in respect of quantity and quality, with the produce of the low districts of Banff and Moray. In the summer months, water spouts sometimes fall, and thunder storms are very common. No disease seems to be peculiar to the parish. Frequent cases of cancer have occurred of late, and consumption is very common ; but the people are in general both healthy and hardy. Hydrography. — It is not a little singular that, in so wide and mountainous a parish, there is no lake, with the exception of a very small one near the Kirkmichael boundary, and within a short dis- tance of the Aven, supposed to have been formed by that river when running on a higher elevation than at present, which people in tho neighbourhood describe as bottomless, and as containing ^^ a ploughman, his plough, and a yoke of oxen." The linn of Livet^ which was the only waterfall in the parish, was destroyed some years ago, with the view of affording free course to the few salmon that enter that stream. Springs are numerous ; some of them very copious, and almost all affording water of excellent quality, though none are said to be medicinal. The most remarkable is one at Chapelton of Kilmaichlie, in the immediate neighbourhood of the outlines of the old chapel, mentioned in the former report, which is cased with stones, indicating that though now visited only as an object of curiosity, it was possibly in repute in times of old, for common or medicinal purposes. Another spring, close by, is also cased at the mouth, though only recently, and in imitation of the former. — Of rivers in the parish, the most important is the Speyt which sweeps the parish on the north-west for about seven miles, and is said to discharge as much water as any river in Scot* land, though, from the rapidity with which it flows, smaller in appear- ance than ^ome others. The Aven, the largest of the Spey's tri- butaries, though, except in floods, which usually commence twelve or more hours earlier, producing but little perceptible increase of it^ welters, — takes its rise from a loch of the same name lying at the foot of the mountains of Benmacdui, Benna-maur, and Cairngo- rum, and after flowing through the parish of Kirkmichael, for thir- ty or thirty- five miles, ente^this parish, about seven miles from its mouth. At Drumiuj, it receives the Livet, swollen into a considerable 126 BANFFSHIRE. river by the tributary streams of Crombie and Tervie, the fomMTt which is the drain of the lowest side of the country, called the Braes of Glenlivet, falling into it at Tombia, and the latter that of Morange and the country bordering on Glenrinnes, at Tom- breakachie. Of the smaller slreams, the. most considerable are Kymah, Aldregnie, Altachoylachan, and Tommore. The first, Ky« mah, takes its rise in the mountains bounding the parish to the south-east, and is larger at the junction than the Livet, which has also its source in these mountains. Aldregnie falls into the Livet at the east side of the Bochle. Altachoylachan is tributary to the Tervie and Tommore, the chief outlet of the waters north of Cairno- cay. The Spey is celebrated for the value of its salmon fisheries and the quality of the fish, and also for the quantity of fir timber annually floated on it from the forests of Abernethy and Bo- thiemurchus ; and the Avon for its uncommon transparency, which makes it dangerous for strangers to attempt fording, being often many feet deep where it scarcely appears to be two, and hence the doggerel lines. ** The water of Aven so fair aod clear. Would deceive a man of 100 year.** Some twenty or thirty years ago, salmon were veiy abun« dant, both in the Aven and the Spey ; and in the latter, fish were frequently caught in the parish upwards of thirty pounds weight ; but now, owing to the close fishing at and towards the mouth of the river, by means of nets and cruives, few escape, and those reaching this are seldom to be met with above twenty pounds weight Grilse, salmon or white trout, finnock, trout, par, stickleback, pike, flounders, eels, and large fresh water muscles, in which pearls of some value are sometimes to be found, are all numerous in the Spey, and, with the exception of pike and mus- cles, are also to be found in the Aven, which, with its tributaries, is much superior to the Spey for trout, and, accordingly, except for grilse and salmon, held in higher repute by the angler. The salmon fishings on the Spey for some miles from its mouth, of which, since the death of the late much lamented Duke of Gordon, his Grace the Duke of Richmond is proprietor, yield a rent of from L. 8000 to L. 10,000 a-year. In the intermediate parishes, the pro- prietors either let them for trifling rents, or protect and retain them for their own use ; but in this parish and farther up, they are con- sidered of little or of no value. Geology and Mineraloffy — The rocks throughout this parish are supposed to be wholly of primitive formation, the most prevalent INVEEATKf. 127 being gneiss. A veio of fed granite running towards the Spey, and very suitable for building purposes, appears on the north side of Benrinnes. Small portions of asbestos have also been found on that mountain, and rock crystals occasionally in the boulder ilones of the Aven. But the most interesting feature in the geo- logy of this parish is the limestone of Glenlivet, which is consider- ed by geologists as imbedded in the gneiss, and not as constitut- ing or representing a separate formation, such as mountain lime- stone or the like. It is of much superior quality to the secon- dary rock, which is quarried as limestone and used for agricultural purposes in the neighbourhood of Elgin and Forres, being of the same description as that of Mortlach and Duthil. None has been discovered in the parish north of Caimocay, but throughout Glen- 4ivet it may be found almost in every burn, and under every field. No regular manufacture of lime, however, as at the great works of Ardonald in Cairnie, and at Dufilown in the neighbour- ing parish of Mortlach, has yet been commenced in that quar- ter. Some of the tenants dig for themselves, but the principal quarries are given in charge to persons who pay no rent, but who are taken bound to sell the stones at prices proportioned to the depth of ttr, or superincumbent soil, ranging from ^d. to l^d. the ten stone weight, which is computed to yield one full of the old corn firlot, or thirty-two pints of lime shells. Though there is a trifling demand from the low end of Cromdale and the upper end of Knockando, as well as from Inveraven proper, the chief market for the quarried rock is found at home. Hence, lime kilns are to be seen on almost every farm in Glenlivet, for which and for family purposes, no small portion of time is taken up in providing peat fuel. Lime is got in this way at less nominal expense, biit both manual and animal labour on the farms is in consequence much increased, and the attention of the farmer too much divested from the cultivation of his farm and the care of his stock, to the production of a stimu- lant, which it would be much to his advantage to procure in a ma- nufactured state. Some years ago, a kiln was put in operation on the Ballindalloch estate, in the immediate neighbourhood of an inexhaustible supply of peat near the top of Cairnocay, to which the limestone was driven up the hill from Morange in Glenlivet, but it was soon given up, — it having been found that peat fuel is un- adapted for the manufacture of lime on a large scale^ and that a supply could more conveniently be procured from the works at Duff- town in Mortlach, where it is always to be had for about nine months of the year. 128 BANFFSHIRE. Soil. — The soil of the parish, though occasionally thin and moory, may, on the whole, be said to be good. At Tomalinan, not far from the marl pit mentioned in the former report, is a bank of land where the loam is upwards of three feet deep, said not to be inferior to any land in Banffshire ; while on mains of Morange, and some of the neighbouring farms, it is a strong rich clay, extreme* ly productive in favourable seasons. In Inveraven proper, the loam is more gravelly than in Glenlivet ; but still, as well as the haugh land along the sides of the rivers, of a kindly nature, and in general yielding good crops ; but a little to the east of the Aven, imme- diately south of the toll-road, the sub*8oil is so retentive, that all the efforts of the late and present proprietor, which have not been few, have hitherto been unable to render productive such parts of the district as have been brought into cultivation. The new sys- tem of lineal drains at short distances, as yet scarcely known in this quarter, has lately been tried on one of the fields, which, it is hoped, will be attended with better success, and so give encourage^ ment to the cultivation and farther improvement of a district no less offensive to the eye of the traveller than it is unproductive in itself, and unprofitable both to the proprietor and other occupants. Zoology, — This parish abounds in game. Partridges, moorfowl, and common hares are very numerous, and white hares by no means uncommon. Ptarmigan are to be met with on the moun-* tains and in Inveraven proper, where there is also black game. An attempt has been made, but not as yet apparently with much suc- cess, to introduce pheasants. Roe are numerous about Ballindalloch and in the lower part of the parish, while to the upper districts, red deer occasionally stray from the forest of Glenfiddich, which, how- ever, soon find their way back, or pay the forfeit of their temerity with their lives. Foxes, weasels, and polecats are common. The first are of a large size, and very destructive, as well as dogs, to the lambs on the hills. Formerly, the eagle seems to have bred near the top of Benrinnes, where the remains of a nest are still to be seen ; but this prince of the feathered tribe has long since deserted the lower district, and is only to be seen ia the upper districts of the parish when occasionally extending his flight beyond his favourite domains, of which the lofty Ben- macdui and far-famed Cairngorum are the almost impr^nable ci- tadels. Rooks with pure white wings have been observed, and in the near neighbourhood (but upon the opposite side of the Spey, in that part of the Ballindalloch estate which lies in the parish of Knockando,) a covey of red grouse were seen, some years ago. INVERAVEN. 129 three of them with white wings, of which a male and female were shot, that presented a very singular appearance. Previous to the great flood of 1829, which proved so destructive there and through- out this parish, chaffinches and house-sparrows were very numerous about Ballindalloch ; but of the former, though almost as numerous as ever, few were to be seen for a year after, and not a single in^ dividual of the latter has yet made its appearance. Wood and Plantations^ — Inveraven proper is studded in almost all directions with plantations, which, with the natural wood, con- sisting chiefly of birch, oak, and mountain-ash, lining the banks of the Spey and the Avon, afford shelter, and are very ornamental ; but with the exception of some stunted birches and alders, chiefly in the valley of the Livet, and some fruit, forest, and ornamental trees in the gardens and around the residences of some of the prin- cipal inhabitants, Glenlivet, including Morange and the Braes, is utterly destitute of wood. A clump of venerable firs, one of them measuring eleven feet in circumference at eleven feet from the ground, and supposed to contain 212 cubic feet of timber, height- ens the natural beauty of the ancient place of Kilmaichlie, which, with the old widow lady who inhabited it, and some of her domes- tics, is so interestingly described in the 87th No. of the Lounger by the graphic pen of the Man of Feeling. At Ballindalloch, and almost so near as to cast their shadows on the house, stand two splendid specimens of spruce fir, one measuring in circumference fifteen feet at the base, and nine feet nine inches at six feet from the ground, and the other, eleven and a-half feet at the base, and nine feet at six feet from the ground, both apparently healthy, and perfectly free from the aphis, to which other three of similar di** mensions, which stood close by, fell martyrs some years ago. On the lawn, there are also to be seen a number of very fine old hard wood trees, among which is an ash with thirty-five feet of clear stem, measuring in circumference fourteen feet at the base, and nine feet at sixteen feet from the ground ; and to the west of the house, within a few yards of the Aven, a magnificent Scotch fir, measuring ten feet in circumference at twelve feet from the ground. A considerable quantity of Scotch fir is nearly full grown on both sides of the Aven, which afford roofing, deals, planks, &c. for coun- try purposes, — while the younger plantations, both of hard wood and larch, and Scotch fir, are of great promise, and such as to give every encouragement to their further extension. Some of the foreign species of pine, such as Pinus cymbray Pinus maritimay BANFF. I 130 BANFFSHIRE. &C. raised from seed procured from abroad, have been introduced into the moor plantations on the Ballindalloch estate, which are also doing well The whole wood on that property within the pa- rish may be estimated at from 1100 to 1200 acres, of which 800 are planted, and from 300 to 400 natural. The only other plan- tation in the parish is a thriving one, also of Scotch fir and larch, on the small estate of Colquoich. 11. — Civil History. Historical Events. — The battle of Altachoylachan or Glenlivet, the most important historical event connected with this parish, has already been so frequently described in other publications, as to re- quire but a very cursory notice in this place.* This battle, in which the Earl of Huntly defeated the Marquis of Argyle, was fought on the 4th of October 1594, upon an inclined plain near the Glen- rinnes border of the parish, terminating in a flat ridge, which de- scends rapidly to the burn of Altachoylachan, and flanked on the south by a somewhat precipitous shoulder of the contiguous moun- tain. Here, on ground equally adapted for withstanding his op- ponent, and for affording a safe retreat in the event of defeat, Ar- gyle, who, it is allowed on all hands, had numbers on his side, wait- ed the attack. His right, commanded by Sir John McLean, oc- cupied the shoulder of the mountain, above alluded to, and fought manfully — but treachery in the centre and left powerfully aided his opponent, who had also the advantage of some pieces of artil- lery. Besides M'Neil of Barra, Campbell of Lochnell, Argyle's nearest heir, and his brother, to whom some also add Sir John McLean, about 500 were slain on the side of Argyle. On Hunt- ly's, Sir Patrick Gordon of Auchindown, Gordon of Gight, and twelve others were killed, and a much greater number wounded, among whom was the Earl of Errol. About three-quarters of a mile from the scene of action, a small knoll on the east bank of the stream Coulalt, commonly called Lord Auchindown*s cairn, two-thirds of it swept away by the flood of 1829, marks the place where Sir P. Gordon of Auchmdown is supposed to have died. Somewhat more than a century subsequent to this battle, this and the adjoining parishes found a troublesome neighbour in James Grant, commonly called James an Tuim, as may be seen by reference to the History of the Troubles and Memorable Trans- actions in Scotland in the Reign of Charles I., published by John * See Sir R. Gordon *s History of the Gordons^ also Shaw*s History of Moray, and Brown*s History of Highlands. INVERAVEN* 131 Spalding, coiniiussary clerk of Aberdeen, who, among other parti- culars, gives an account of the treacherous abduction by this bar- barian, of the young laird of Ballindalloch, during what he expect- ed to be a friendly meeting, — whom he confined at Bauds, in the parish of Speymouth, exposed to the greatest hardships, for the space of twenty-one days; whence he at length escaped, in theab^ sence of James an Tuim, by having gained over Leonard Leslie, one of his guards, with whom he conversed in Latin. * ^ Eminent Men.-— Several of the lairds of Ballindalloch, in suc- cession, followed the military profession, and almost all of them rose to the rank of field officers. Colonel William Qrant of Bal- lindalloch raised one of the five companies that constituted the Black Watch,'afterwards embodied into the 42d Regiment But the most eminent was General James Grant of Ballindalloch, who succeeded to the estate on the death of his nephew, Major Wil- liam Grant, in ]770. General Grant passed the greater part of his life in active service. He defeated Count EKEstaing, with an inferior force, conquered St Lucia in 1779, and was for many years Gbvernor of Florida. At the time of his death, which happened at Ballindalloch in 1806, he was Colonel of the 1 1th Foot, and Go-« vemor of Stirling Castle. In terms of instructions left by himself, his remains were interred in the corner of a field on the Mains farm, (a finvourite spot with him in his lifetime, which commands a view of the valley of the Spey, and of the barony of Ballindalloch,) where a mausoleum has been erected by his successor, terminating in a handsome pillar, in which is inserted a marble slab, bearing a La- tin inscription descriptive of his rank and appointments, as well as of the time of his birth and death. The sloping ground to the north and west of this field is now covered with a thriving planta- tion, which adds not a little to its natural beauty. * The effects of James* treachery aod cruoltyy it would appear, were not confined to the lower district of the parish and its inhabitants. Tradition relates, that while in eoofinement in Edinburgh Castle, observing Grant of ToqvuiTcmWn pass one day, he called out, what news from Speyside? None very particular, rejoined his acquaint- ance, the best is, that the countnr is rid of you. Perhaps we shall meet again, repli- ed James. Tomnavoulen pasted on, and James was left for the time to his medita- tions in jail, but m the end made his word good. Having escaped by means of ropes, conveyed to him by his wife, in a cask supposed to contain butter, he called on his re- turn to Speyside, at tlie house of Tonmayoulen in an evening, where he was invited to pass the night. The invitation being declined, Tomnavoulen and his son were asked in return to accompany him a little on his way. All three set out in company, apparently on the most friendlv terms ; but they had not gone far, when the barbarian drew his sword, slew both the rather and son, and having cut off their heads, wrapped them in a comer of his plaid, returned to Tomnavoulen, threw them reeking with blood into the lap of Mrs Grant, and then bade her good night. 132 BANFFSHIRE. The father of Sir James McGregor, Bart who has so long and so ably presided over the medical department of the British Army, held the farm of Lynebeg in Glenlivet, and it is said that Sir James himself was bom there. Lcmd'-Qumers. — Within the last two centuries, the greater part if not the whole property of this parish seems to have gone into new hands. About 200 years ago, the Grants were proprietors of Blairfindy ; the Stewarts, of Drumin and Kilmaichlie ; and a family of the name of Nairn, of Moranges, — ^while a different branch of the Grants, commonly called the Craig* Achrochcan Grants, held Bal- lindalloch. Now the whole parish belongs to two large and one small heritor. All the Gordon estate in this parish, which comprehends the whole country of Glenlivet, with the exception of that part called Morange, having with Glenfiddich, &c. in Mortlach and Kinrara in Badenoch, been excambed for the estate of Durris in Kincardineshire, the Duchess- Dowager of Richmond, on the^death of her brother, George last Duke of Gordon succeeded to these estates, as heiress of entail to the Earl of Peterborough, and so became principal heritor of this parish. George M^Pherson Grant, Esq. who sat in Parliament for the county of Sutherland, for about seventeen years previous to 1826, is proprietor of Ballindalloch, Kilmaichlie, and Morange ; and James William Grant, of Wester Elchies, Esq. who holds a high appointment in the East Indies, is proprietor of Colquoich, a single farm in the lower extremity of the parish. The real and valued rents of these heritors stand thus : Redf. Valued. Duchess of Richmond, - . - L. 2815 L. 2190 Scotch. Mr M'Pherson Grant, ezclusWe of what he occupies himself, .... 2170 1675 Mr Grant of Elchies, about ^ ^ - 10 100 Total, L. 5055 Ster. L. 3965 Scotch; Parochial 2?^««^crs.— There are three volumes of parish regis- ters, the oldest commencing 1630 ; but all have been imperfecta ]y kept Few of the Roman Catholics seem to have inserted their children's births at any time ; and now, scarcely any ; and until of late the Protestants were too negligent in recording theirs. Since 1640, no notice appears to be taken of burials. Antiquities, — Rude stone coffins have occasionally been disco- vered in the parish, under cairns removed to make way for the plough ; and in trenching a wood on the farm of Kilmaichlie, the labourers found some old arms and coins, the former so corroded INVERAVEN. 133 as to be unworthy of preservation, the latter said to have been of the size of half-crowns, but which, having been privately sold to a silversmith, who has left the country, cannot now be particularly described. Numerous traces of Druidical temples are to be found, succeeded by almost an equal number of chapels and Christian places of worship, of which there were one at Phona, at Nevie, Deskie, and Chapelton of Kilmaichlie ; but no traces now remain of any of them except the latter, the outlines of which are still visible, with some appearances of graves close by. The burial ground of Downan is still used, and occasionally also that of Buit- terlach; in the near neighbourhood of which, there is a very large cairn, supposed to be raised over the grave of a person of note. A small spot, in a field on the farm of Haughs of Kilmaichlie, appears clearly to have been also a place of sepulture. In order to protect it from the sacrilegious invasion of the plough, the pre- sent occupant of the farm has, with proper taste and feeling, caus- ed it to be planted. At Blairfindy, are to be seen the ruins of a hunting seat of the Earls of Huntly ; and at Drumin, on a high promontory near the confluence of the Livet with the Aven, stands part of the old castle of Drumin, now affording shelter only to jackdaws and pigeons. The wall, which is of great height and thickness, is pretty entire on the east and north, and half of the west side ; but the other half of the west and the whole south wall are gone, and the stability of a considerable part of what remains of the structure seems to rest on a single stone of a few inches in diameter, placed in a curious position on its edge, and not on what builders call the bed. The house of Ballindalloch, the residence of the proprietor, and, it is said, one of the most perfect specimens extant of the old Scottish castle, may also be classed among the antiquities of the parish. This large structure consists of a square build- ing flanked by three circular towers, — the centre one, which is the lai^est, containing the ancient door and turnpike stair, sur- mounted by a square watch-tower termed the ^^ Cape House," with a window to each of the four sides, and an aperture in the wall immediately above the entrance, so as to admit of boiling lead or other missiles being thrown down, in the event of the enemy making good his approach. Over the chimney, in one of the rooms, is carved 1546. The Cape House seems to have been added by Pa- trick Grant in 1602, and about the beginning of last century a fur- ther addition was made of two large and commodious wings. This mas* 134 BANFFSHIRE. sy and irregular-looking structure is situated ^ little to the east of the A?en, and about half-a-mile from its confluence with the Spey, upon a low flat haugh of a triangular shape richly wooded, having Qiirnocay in the distance on the south, the Ayen, clear as crystal^ and lined with wood, on the west, the Spey henomoied in by moon** tains on the north, and on the east a magnificent bank (embracing Craig- Achrochcan) covered with wood of many varieties, producing altogether a scene not often to be surpassed even in the Highlands. A little farther up the river, upon the edge of the high ground, and near a small stream called the Castle stripe, are to be seen the traces of a large building said to have been the old castle or man*- sion-house of Ballindalloch, where tradition says it would have still stood, had not the rebuilding been prevented by unseen agencyy — the part built in the day-time having been always thrown down through the night : at length a voice was heard saying, ^' build in the •Cow Hai^h, and you shall meet with no interruption." The re* commendation was followed, and the house of Ballindalloch conse- quently raised in its present situation, where it has long stood un- assailed by the invisible adversary of its predecessor, but exposed by times to a real and little less formidable one, the Aven. The most recent as well as the most destructive visit it received firom this neighbour, happened at the great flood of 1829.* III. — Population. In 1755 d>« peculation amounted to 2464 1766, . . . . 220O 1779 ... 2244 180j', males 101$, ftmalea 1242, together, 2260 * To remedy the desolation occasioned at Ballbdalloch by thu floods the aspect of which was truly appalling, appeared almost a hopeless task; nevertheless the attempt was made without delay, and with entire success, the place having some years ago as- sumed its wpntcd attractive appearance, and even become, in the opinion of many, prettier than before. Some old trees are indeed awanting, and a field or two may be deteriorated or circumscribed ; still other trees have been planted, pits have been filled up, roots and stumps of trees and gravel cleared, the garden, which till then was dote to the house, moved to a suitable distance, the lawn levelled, trenched, and laid out anew ; and in addition to all this, and at an expense little less than that of all the other operations together, an embankment has been raised along the Aven, from its junction with the Spey to the rocks at the upper end of the lawn, a distance of about 1 500 yards, fhced with stones keyed, that is, neatly set in after the end or edge to the level of the field, and then raised three or four feet with earth, partly turfed, and partly made green by grass grown from the seed. Great attention is bestowed, after floods, in examining this beautiful and substantial embankment, and in repairing breaches, which seldom, if ever, occur except by the fidGng of the river to a lower level. For this purpose, baskets made of rough planks^ or split trees nailed together in the shape of a paraUek^ram, and filled with hu*ge stones, have been of great use. A line of these baskets or creels f as they are called, has been found more efiectual in opposing the river than any other obstacle hitherto employed ; and by their aid, the embankment has, without the smallest apparent diminution of its strength or ceatnesR, been under- founded for a long way, pairt of it to the dqjth of nearly six feet, so as to suit the bed •f the river, which is deepened here and there by almost every flood. INTERAVBN. 135 1821, males 1 ISO; females 1360, together, 2492 1831, males 1283, females 1365, together, 2648 1B36, .... 2707 From the above table it will be seen that the population, which seems to have fallen off for ten years subsequent to Dr Webster's report, has since been gradually increasing, — the most marked increase being within the last few years ; in the course of which, the habits of ihe people have undergone a great change to the better* Pre- vious to the passing of the Act of Parliament, in 1823, for the en- couragement of legal distillation in the Highlands of Scotland, the inhabitants of Glenlivet almost without an exception, and many also in the parish church district, were more or less engaged in. manufacturing and carrying to market smuggled whisky ; but the energetic measures taken by Government for the suppression of smuggling have proved eminently successful here ; the male po- pulation, instead of prowling over the country in search of a mar- ket for their whisky, and being constantly on the watch to elude the eye of officers of excise, are now happily and successfully em- ployed in the cultivation of farms, or in prosecuting hwodicrafts ; — ^while the females, who were in the habit of spending no small portion of their time, by night as well as by day, in the bathie^ — a prey to the licentious and immoral, — are now more safely and suitably employed in domestic occupations, or in performing such portions of field labour as fall to the lot of their sex, in the best cultivated and most civilized districts of the country. There is only one family of independent fortune which lives in the parish, and that only for half the year. Some have large hold- ings, and most are in easy circumstances for their station in life. Oottars, that is, subtenants who hold houses and kail-yards from the principal tenant,' are sometimes thickly set down; but there is no village within the parish. The great bulk of the population are engaged in agricultural pursuits, though there is a due propor- tion of tradesmen to supply the wants of a rural district Towards the borders of Kirkmichael and Cromdale, Graelic is spoken by a few ; but it is fast dying out, and the number who either speak or understand it, is becoming smaller every year. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Of late, the agriculture of this parish has made rapid progress. Some time ago, black oats, a species of grain now scarcely to be seen, were very common. Then, the aid of lime was rarely sought, and, except at Ballindalloch and a few other places, two-horse ploughs and improved implements of husbandry 136 BANFFSHIRE. were not used ; but now, these and the best system of fanning have found their way to all quarters. Not only is the old arable land, in consequence, in general well farmed, but a great extent of waste land has been brought into cultivation. On the Ballindalloch es- tate, the proprietor is usually at the expense of main drains when required, or allows for land improved L. 5 per acre to the tenant, (who is thus enabled to purchase lime,) on his agreeing to pay inte- rest at 5 per cent, during the lease; and it is an injudicious im- provement which does not in this way turn out advantageous both to landlord and tenant. But, notwithstanding such encouragement, the progress of improvement is much retarded in the parish church district, by the quantities of stones, either partly above or imme- diately under thie surface, which create an expense in the removal, in general much greater than that of trenching. But in Glenli- vet, where there are comparatively few stones, the reclaiming of waste land is going on at a rapid rate, being on an average, on the Gordon estate alone, at the rate of 100 acres annually, or about 2000, in the course of the nineteen years' lease. Few of the farmers keep more than two or three horses in the low end of the parish ; but in Glenlivet there are some very extensive farms ; — ^and on them, the system of cropping and manuring the fields, and the general mode of management, can scarcely be surpassed. The example of these more skilful and opulent tenants being readily imi- tated in the neighbourhood, the advantage of liming and proper ro- tation is now universally felt; and consequently, good farming may be seen throughout the parish, with very few exceptions, not only on every farm but on every croft Bent of Land. — The number of acres arable on the Gordon es- tate, and their average rent, cannot at present be stated. Ballin- dalloch estate, 2200 acres, average rent about L. 1 per acre. Cul- quoich do., about 70 acres, average rent about L. 1 per acre. Oats constitute the staple grain of the country, — the most com- mon being of the early Angus, and sundry varieties. Barley or Scots bear is usually sown after green crop. Very little wheat is raised ; but, even in the low end of Glenlivet, it grows of excellent quality in favourable seasons, and has been known to weigh 55 lb. per bushel. Stock, — Though none of the Clydesdale breed have found their way to the parish, many of the horses are strong and ac- tive, and in general better adapted than those of a larger size, to the nature of the country, the state of the roads, the quality of INVERAVEN. 13T their food^ and the quantity of work for which they are intend- ed* The black-cattle of the more wealthy have a considerable dash of West Highland blood, and are in general handsome and well kept At Ballindalloch, those bred are a cross betwixt Buchan cows and a Highland bull, which produces large fine animals; the three year old stots, when in good driving condition, having of late sold, in the month of July, for three years running, at L. 13 each. But the black-cattle in general throughout the parish, bred with- out much attention to the selection either of bulls or cows, and kept in numbers quite disproportioned to the food, which is often un- palatable as well as scanty, are equally destitute of symmetry, of size, and of flesh. With the view of improving this species of stock in this and some neighbouring parishes, the Highland and Agri- cultural Society now offers premiums ; but until the number of cattle is better proportioned to the quantity of the food, and the smaller farmers begin in consequence to feel an improvement in their growth and prices, neither premiums nor any thing else will be found to remedy the evil. This parish, notwithstanding the range of mountain and ex* tent of waste ground, is not much adapted for sheep-farming. With the exception of a few of English extraction, kept on infield, the sheep are mostly of the black-faced breed, and in general stunted in their growth. Deriving their food chiefly from the hills which are attached to the farms, in general in undivided common, they soon deteriorate, when imported from other quarters ; and hence the more judicious and wealthy farmers have, almost without excep- tion, given over keeping this description of stock. Farm Buildings. — Though there is abundance of room for im- provement, both in respect to arrangement and construction in the farm-steadings, yet this parish does not seem to be, in this respect, behind any in the neighbourhood. Many excellent slated dwel- ling-houses two stories high, are to be seen in Glenlivet with good out-houses. Those at Wester Deskie, which are very extensive, are the admiration of strangers, who in general go to the district, expecting to see little else than bothiesj — and would attract atten- tion in any part of the country. Manufactures. — Instead of the smuggling houses, formerly to be found on almost every streamlet, besides one in progress of erection, there are two legal distilleries in Glenlivet, where whisky is produced of the very best quality, and always commanding a 138 BANFFSHIRE. great demand and high price : — one at Auchttrachan, about the centre of the glen, as lately enlarged, gives employment to fourmen, consumes wedily about 160 bushels of malt made (rom bear, which yields dOO gallons of spirits, and about L. 45 of duties* The other is at upper Drumio, nearer the Avon. The proprietor of the former has also a distillery in Buchan; but he finds, after the most careful and repeated trials, that, with the same hands and materials, he can- not produce a spirit equal to what he obtains in Glenlivet For the latter, of which he never knows what it is to have a stock, there is a demand to all quarters of the world — its fame as well as quality being equal to that of any smuggled whisky. The chief market, however, is among private families, though even spirit-dealers rea- dily allow 6d* per gallon more than for the whisky distilled in Buchan. There are in the parish, 5 meal, 2 barley, 1 lint, I saw, and 2 carding or wool mills, — but no public kiln, the grain being usually dried on the owner's or a neighbour's kiln. The other manufac- tures of the parish scarcely deserve notice, being chiefly confined to woollen cloths and plaidings made by the small farmers who keep sheep. V. — Parochial Economy. M€iT}iet-toumi. — Tomantoul and Charleston of Aberlour, both market villages, lie at the distance of about three miles, the former from the upper, and the latter from the lower end of the parish. Grantown and Dufftown are also within reach of many of the inha- bitants ; but the nearest market-towns of any note are Elgin, to which there are two carriers who go weekly, and Keith. The dis- tance to each of these places from the church is about twenty miles ; but a considerable proportion of the supplies of the lower district and of almost the whole of Glenlivet comes from Aberdeen, with which there is constant intercourse, by means of carriers resi- dent in Keith and in the parish, who bring out groceries, cloths, hardwares, &c. &c partly for private families, and partly to be sold by the merchants of the parish, who are to be found in all quar- ters, and who take back, in return, cheese, butter, eggs, &c Roads. — The parish is crossed, in the lower end, by four miles of toll-road, which is too steep at both extremities, continued from the bridge of Aven by about two miles of Parliamentary road, which is steep also, but always kept in excellent repair. And in Glenliv^,itis crossed by a tolerable county road leading from Dufftown to Tamin- toul. The two principal heritors joined, some years ago, in making INVERAVEN. 139 a good road, each carrying it on, upon his own property,— -lead- ing by the east side of Aven to Glenlivet and Kirkmichael, which has proved of the utmost advantage in opening up the communica- tion with these places. There are also a pretty good road, some miles up the Aven on the west side, and a couple of similar branch ones from the toll-road towards the Spey ; but, with the exception of the approaches to Ballindalloch and the church, there is scarce- ly another mile of good or even passable road in the parish. Bridges, S^c — The number of bridges in the parish is but small, compared to its extent and its wants. The old one over the Livet at upper Downan, mentioned in the former report, having been al- most destroyed by the flood of 1829, a fine new arch was built, last year, on a more eligible site some hundred yards farther down the stream ; and the one at Tomnavoulen, about three miles higher up, which was also so much destroyed by the flood of 1829 as to be of no use except for foot-passengers, has recently undergone repair. On the Ballindalloch portion of the new Avenside road, there is a very handsome arch over the rapid bum of Tommore. The only other bridge of any consequence, is that at Craig- Achrochcan over the Aven, mentioned in the former report. Neither of the two latter received any injury from the great floods of 1829. On the Spey, there is no bridge on either hand, nearer than those at Grantown and Craigellachie, which are about twenty-four miles asunder ; nor is there any good ford either in this or the neighbouring parish of Knockando, the best being that at Balnellan, which is very deep. Besides several private, there are two public boats, — one at Blacks- boat, and the other at Balnellan, immediately above the mouth of the Aven. No public coaches pass through, or are in any way connected with the parish. One was tried some years ago, from Keith to Gran- town, but it did not succeed. The mails are carried daily from Keith and Craigellachie to Bridge of Aven, where there is a re^ gular post-office, called Ballindalloch, with a subsidiary one at Drumin ; from whence, there is a runner three times a wedc to To~ mintoul. Letters to Grantown are sent by Keith, where they lie from ten to twelve hours, and are carried upwards of seventy miles, to save the paltry expense of a direct post for fourteen miles. Ecclesiastical State. — Previous to the Reformation, Inveraven was a parsonage dedicated to St Peter, and the seat of the Chancellor of the diocese, having the vicarages of Knockando and Urquhart 140 BANFFSHIRE. in Inverness-shire dependent on it The church, which was built in 1806, is in good repair, but very inconveniently situated on the Spey boundaries of the parish. Intended for the accommodation of the Protestants in Glenlivet, as well as the ordinary congrega^ tion at the communion, it is seated for 550, and may contain about 600, being only about 150 less than the whole population of the parish church district A good many seats being in consequence empty, on ordinary occasions, strangers may be led to supjpose that the people frequent other places of worship ; but this is by no means the case, there being scarcely ten in the lower district who are not in the habit of attending the parish church. There is no chapel of ease in the parish, but a mission on the Royal boun- ty has been in operation in Glenlivet for upwards of 100 years. At Achbreck, a distance of about nine miles, there is a substantial but rather confined chapel, rebuilt in 1825, at the joint expense of the heritors and the people, where the missionary usually preaches ; but once in six weeks, he goes to Achnara, in the Braes, to officiate on Sundays. In the parish church, the seats which are undivided, are all free. In the chapel at Achbreck, a very few seats are let, by such as have more room than their &milies require ; but the great proportion there are free also. In accordance with the practice in the presbytery, the people in the church district and the Protestants in Glenlivet, are cathechised twice a year — once in summer, preparatory to the communion, and again in autumn or spring. At the parish church, there are 237 communicants, at Achbreck also 237. Since the grant was obtained, for dispensing the sacrament of the Lord's supper at Achbreck, the Protestants in Glenlivet have given up attending that ordinance in the parish church. In Glenlivet, where about three-fifths of the people are of the Roman Catholic persuasion, there are two Roman Catholic cha- pels, — the one at Tombia, pretty fer up the glen, — ^the other at Chapelton, in the Braes of Glenlivet The former is a large building capable of containing from 800 to 1000 persons, — but on- ly partly finished : the latter contains about 300. The manse, which was built in 1775, received a handsome and commodious addition in 1834, and is now one of the best in the country. It is situated within a few yards of the church. The glebe consists of only about 4 acres of arable land, and pasture grass scarcely sufficient for the summer keep of one cow. The sti- INVEEAVEN. 141 pend was modified in 1821 at 15 chalders ; and there are still about L. 100 Sterling of free teind. The itinerant preacher in Glenlivet has L. 60 a-year, and L. 5 for furnishing communion elements; and, besides an allowance for peats, he has a> small farm on the Gordon estate, rent free, in lieu of a crofi, with the privilege of a range of hill pasture for sheep. TheRoman Catholic priests are chiefly supported by their hear- ers ; both possess farms at moderate rents, and the one officiating at Chapelton has h, 20 a-year, from funds provided by the Abb^ Mcpherson. Bishop Kyle, who resides at Pressholm, in the parish of Rathven, is the Roman Catholic bishop of the district Schools. — The only school in the church district, is the parish school, where the average attendance of scholars is, in summer, 44,. and in winter, 53. In Glenlivet, there are 4 Protestant schools ; 3 of them male and one female ; and 3 Roman Catholic schools, 1 male and 2 female. The Roman Catholic seminary or college there, men- tioned in the former report, was moved in 1799 to Achertes, near Aberdeen. Of the male Protestant teachers,'one has asalary from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, another from the Ge-» neral Assembly's Committee for Highland Schools, and the third a small one of L. 5 from the Gordon estate, — and from the same quar- ter the Protestant female teacher has L. 5 a*year, in addition to a similar sum allowed by the Society for Propagating Christian Know- ledge. The Roman Catholic male, and one of the female teachers have each L. 10 a-year from funds provided by the Abbe M*Pherson ; the other has also a small salary. The General Assembly's and So- ciety's teachers have houses and gardens ; and, with the exception of the female one, are also provided with peats, by the inhabitants of the district in which they labour, or are allowed an equivalent. The paro- chial schoolmaster has a good house and garden, and besides his fees, which may average about L. 1 1 a year, and the emoluments of the session clerkship, he has a salary of L. 28, 17s. 5d., and a share of the Dick bequest. Some few parishioners may still be found who are unable to read and write, but their number is gradually decreasing. The schools are well attended, and the people are fiiUy alive to the be- nefits of education, and ready to avail themselves of the means of it, which are now fortunately within their reach : only a female school is much wanted in the parish church district. At the Pro- testant schools in Glenlivet, a number of Roman children are in at- tendance who read the Bible, and are engaged promiscuously with 142 BANFFSHIRE. the Protestant children in all the other exercises of the school, with the exception of committing to memory the Assembly's Shorter Catechism and the Protestant version of the Pisalois. Poor.— The Protestant poor manifest no undue desire to become a burden on the funds ; nor do they consider it a degradation to receive aid from them, when standing in need of it The number on the roll is 40, and each, on the average for the year, receives in quarterly instalments about 17s. The fund for their relief (which received an accession some years ago by a bequest of L. 50, made by Sir William Grant of Bildornie, who for many years held the high appointment of Master of the Rolls,) arises chiefly from col- lections at the church and Protestant chapel, and the interest of a small sum laid out at interest The Roman Catholic poor, who only receive a share of any extraordinary gift to the funds of the parish, may be said to be supported by those of their own persuasion, who make collections for them at their chapels. Fairs. — There are four feirs held within the parish, a Uttle to the east of the church, in the course of the year, for the sale of cattle, horses, grain, &c. and where engagements are entered into betwixt the frirmers and their servants, for the harvest and half year. Inns, Spe. — In the parish church district, there are only two public- houses, — one of them an excellent inn. In Glenlivet, there are no fewer than nine public-houses, — a number quite disproportioned to the district, for which four or five would be quite sufficient FueL — Moss, as may naturally be supposed, is to be met with, in all parts of the parish. Towards the mountains, it is in gene- ral black, and of excellent quality for fuel ; but in the lower and river side parts of the country, it is much exhausted, or of such bad quality, that some of the more opulent give a preference, except for the kitchen, to EngUsh coals driven from Garmouth, a distance to some of more than thirty miles. General Observations. The parish, within the last forty years, has undergone a very great change, in respect to the improving and planting of waste ground, and the state of roads, bridges, agriculture and buildings; but, by far the most important change is that which has taken place in the habits of the people, since the suppression of smugglmg. The improvements which seem, at present, to be most wanted, are bet- ter marches, and greater encouragement for formers to enclose by means of dikes and ditches, as well as for crofters to settle on the mooors, in order to check the tide of emigration ; bridges over INVERAVEN. 14^ the Tervay, Crombie, and smaller streams ; cross roads in all di* rectioDs, and a main one from Tomnavoulen to Achnara, round the country called Braes of Olenlivet, (which is utterly destitute of roads, ) with a branch from Tomalinan to Tarointoul, and another, MpractU cable^ to Glenbucket or Strathdon, — ^the present thoroughfare to the latter being only a pass so steep as to have obtained the very ap- propriate name of the Ladder. The much-talked-of line of road (which is nearly complete in this parish) from Perth to Elgin and Forres, with a bridge over the Spey at Tomdow, would also be highly beneficial to the parish. But the improvement which, above all others, is most to be desired, is the erection of a parish in the country of Glenlivet, which would be felt as a mighty boon by the Protestants, and which could not fail to be of great benefit to all the people. The conflicting nature of religious profession there is an evil whose consequences are deeply felt ; and dram-drink- ing and illegitimate births, though both considerably on the decrease, are still too frequent. Yet, with the machinery of a parish under the guidance of a faithful and judicious clergyman, in the full en- joyment of the status and emoluments of a parish minister, — it might be hoped that, under the Divine blessing, the whole inhabi- tants of Glenlivet, disposed as they are, readily to avail themselves of the means of religious and moral instruction, which they enjoy, would gradually be improved ; and that this beautiful and sequester- ed country would ere long become, what nature seems to have in- tended it to be, the enviable abode of religion, of happiness, and of virtue. August 1836. BANFV* PARISH OF ALVAH. PRESBYTERY OP TURRIFF, SYNOD OF ABERDEEK, THE REV. ANDREW TODD, MINISTER. I, — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Extent^ Boundaries. — Alyau and the adjoining parish of Forglen were originally united ; but before the middle of the seventeenth century, they were erected into separate parishes. In the most ancient manuscripts and printed records connected with the parish, the name, Alvah, is found to occur with the varied or- thographies, Mvetkj Alvethe^ Alvechty AlvechUy Alvachy AUwach Alwach and Avauch ; but, after the most diligent inquiry, the writer has been unable to form any probable conjecture in regard to its etymological meaning. The parish extends in length about 6 English miles ; and at its greatest breadth, to nearly the same dis- tance ; but in some places, to little more than two. In Robertson's map of the counties of Aberdeen, Ban£f, and Kincardine, published in 1822, the superficial extent of the parish is estimated at ll,2d2 imperial acres, or 17 § square miles; but, according to the most accurate information which the writer could obtain, the superficial extent is only 1 1,133 imperial acres, being 149 acres under the ex« tent given in the map. On the north and north-west, Alvah is bounded by the parish of Banfi*; on the south-west, by Marnoch ; on the south, by Forglen ; on the south-east, by Turriff; and on the east and north-east by King-Edward and Gamrie. Topographical Appearances. — The highest elevations in the pa- rish are the hill of Alvah and the hill of Maunderlea. The for- mer, according to Robertson's map, rises, near the northern extre- mity, to the height of 578 feet above the level of the sea, while the latter, situated on the confines of the parish, nearly four miles south-west of the former, has on the same authority, 1 55 feet of superior elevation. Both hills are rather steep towards the north, but of more easy ascent on the sides more distant from the sea. ALVAH. 145 The hill of Alvah stands apart from any other considerable or immediate elevation ; but the hill of Maunderlea, proceeding in a northerly direction from the parish of Marnoch, is connected with a series of minor elevations, which are scattered over the western and south-western division of the parish, and which give to this dis- trict a bleak and hilly appearance, strikingly contrasted with the woodland scenery which adorns the sloping sides of the hill of Al- vah, and the rich and fertile lands which encircle its base. From the summit of this latter hill, the view is extensive, varied, and pic- turesque, and on an unclouded evening of summer, cannot be con- templated but with the most pleasing emotions. Towards the east,, as far as the eye can reach, appears a large portion of the level, naked, and, comparatively speaking, uninteresting district of Buchan, having its otherwise monotonous aspect relieved, how* ever by the bold and projecting headlands of Gamrie and Troup, which rise in frowning majesty along its shore ; on the south is be- held the Doveran flowing along between banks of the most fertile description, and here and there adorned with gentlemen^s seats embowered amid thriving plantations,-— the well known mountains of Bennochie, the Buck of the Cabrach, and further to the south- west, Belrinnes, appearing with imposing dignity along the line of the distant horizon. Looking in the direction of the north, the spec- tator beholds spread out, as it were, on a map below him, the pic- turesque and highly embellished scenery, amid which stands con- spicuous. Duff House, the classical and magnificent mansion of the Earl of Fife, — the Doveran winding amid the surrounding woods in many a tortuous maze, as if loth to quit so fair a scene, and at length flowing into the ocean at Banff, which, together with the adjoining bay, is from this eminence distinctly visible ; while, far in the west and north-west, are seen relieved against the evening sky, the fantastic forms of the Caithness hills, behind which the sun is setting, and is throwing a parting gleam of molten gold across the broad bosom of the Moray Frith, the whole of which is stretch- ed out before the spectator in mellow and unbroken repose, save where here and there is espied the white sail of some distant vessel. The river Doveran may be considered as the natural boundary of Alvah on the east, although the estates of Inverichny and Dun- lugas are situated on its eastern bank. This river, while within the parish of Alvah, flows nearly from south to north, and, includ- ing its numerous and beautiful vnndings, has a course of more than six miles in length. Where it enters the parish, it flows between 146 BANFFSHIRE. the estates of Dunlugas and Montblairy, the proprietors of both of which have elegant mansions on its banks, surrounded with ex- tensive and thriving plantations. Below the estate of Dunlugas, on the eastern bank of the river, a part of the parish of King- Ed- ward intervenes, and at the distance of a mile and a half farther down, lies the estates of Inverichny on the same side. On the opposite side, below Montblairy, are situated, in succession, the lands of Auchenbadie, Sandlaw, and a small part of the barony of Alvah. Before the Doveran leaves the parish, the scenery on either side becomes strikingly bold and picturesque. The ground rises to the north, presenting a rocky barrier, as if to intercept the progress of the stream. In this barrier, afler diverting it from its northerly direction for more than a mile, a narrow chasm, as if by some great convulsion of nature, has been opened through the rocks for the reception of the water. Here the rocky and preci- pitous sides of the chasm are joined by a majestic arch, ♦ which has more the appearance of a Roman structure than of a work of modern times. The chasm immediately under the bridge is only 27 feet wide, while the depth of the water is 56 feet, and from the top of the parapet to the surface of the water, the height is 55^ feet The scenery at the bridge of Alvahf is much and justly ad- mired ; but it is not easy by words to give any precise and accu- rate idea of its beauties. Immediately to the north of the bridge, the rocks start back, as it were, into a sort of amphitheatre, rising, m some places, almost a hundred feet above the water, and clothed, fringe.d, and festooned with the most beautiful and diversified tints, arising from the luxuriant intermixture of trees, shrubs, lichens, and mosses. The water below is collected into an extensive, deep, and dark-looking basin, exhibiting, on ordinary occasions, no ap- pearance of life or of motion, save when momentarily agitated by the splash of the leaping salmon. Farther north, and yet higher up, arises the hill of Montcolfer, stretching away to a great dis- tance, clothed to its top with firs, and forming the back-ground of the picture. The whole scene is of a solemn and secluded na- ture, and the sounds which most frequently break in on its gloomy stillness, are the scream of the heron, and the hoarse note of the raven. Farther down, the stream is again contracted by a suc- cession of shaggy rocks and steep wooded banks, between which it * This bridge was erected in 1772 by the late Earl James Fife, t An engraving of the bridge of Alvah may be seen in the Annual entitled Friendahip'k Offering, for 1832. ALVAH. 147 urges its winding way for nearly a mile, when it becomes the east- ern boundary * of the parish of Banff, at the distance of about two miles from the sea. From the bridge of Al\rah, downwards, art has everywhere been successfully exerted to add beauty to the gran- deur of nature. The summits of the rocks and steep banks of the river are clothed with a striking variety of forest trees, either tastefully disposed for effect, or studiously adapted to their conge- nial soils, while, from the rocky crevices below, springs a rich pro- fusion of wild flowers and shrubs, that dip their pensile branches in the stream. But this scene, at all times beautiful and romantic, assumes only its character of homble grandeur when the river is swollen in a flood. On such an occasion, the narrow chasm at the bridge of Alvah, being insufficient to admit the augmented stream, the waters are repelled by the opposing crags, and flow backwards for nearly two miles along the stream, and, in many places, ex- tend for more than a quarter of a mile over the adjacent fields. When this mighty lake and the roused-up river, pour their waters over the opposing rocks at the entrance of the gorge above the bridge, and when the tortured stream is thence thrown down with resistless force into the narrow gap beneath the arch, where ^^ it boils, and wheels, and foams, and thunders through,'' a scene is presented of such mingled beauty and horror, that, to convey an adequate conception of it, might require the combined powers of a Claude and a Salvator. Hydrography. — This parish abounds with perennial springs of the purest soft water, and contains also several excellent chalybeates. The most remarkable fountain of the first class is called Comes^well . — a name which occurs in a charter dated more than 500 years ago. This fountain rises on the farm of Tipperty, at the northern base of the hill of Alvah, and is as remarkable for its magnitude as for the excellence of its water. It throws out twenty-seven im- perial gallons in a minute, and when tried by the hydrometer ap- pears only a shade heavier than water distilled. It has long been envied by the people of Banff, but has never yet been conducted thither, although such a scheme has been frequently contemplated. Many other fountains, of similar quality, spring from the base of the same hill, but none of them rise far up its sides. The tem- perature of the numerous springs within the parish ranges from * By aomei tlie parish is said to extend downwards, along the course of the river, until within a very short distance of the cruive dyke ; others are of opinion that ita northern boundaiy is only a few hundred yards below the bridge. 148 BANFFSHIRE. 45° to 46^ of Fahrenheit, with the exception of the well at Kern- plemire, of which the temperature is as high as 50^. The forma- tion of calcareous concretions has been ascribed to drinking from this last-mentioned fountain ; but from a recent chemical analysis, the water does not appear to be distinguished by any quality pro- ductive of such a disorder. — None of the chalybeates are worthy of particular notice, with the exception of the Red Gill well on the hill of Brownside, and a spring rising on the Hill-head of Mont- blairy. Each of these has been found to hold a greater quantity of iron in solution, than either the Red-well in Boyndie, or the well of Tarlair in Gamrie. From a qualitative analysis recently ob- tained, it appears that the Red Gill well contains a large quantity of the protoxide of iron held in solution by excess of carbonic acid, with an average quantity of chloride of sodium, carbonate and sulphate of lime. The Hill-head spring contains fully as large a quantity of iron as the former, held in solution as a protoxide by excess of carbonic acid, with rather less carbonate and sulphate of lime, but with fully as much salt. The writer has obtained ansT- lyses of several of the other springs, but the results are marked by no peculiarity worthy of insertion. The whole of the springs ap- pear to arise, in general, between the clay-slate and greywacke, which constitute the prevailing rocks within the parish. The only river is the Doveran, which has only three tributaries of any consequence within the parish. Two of these flow from west to east, and join the river at Auchenbadie and Mill of Mont- blairy, the other flows from east to west, and joins the river at Boat of Ashoagle. The breadth of the Doveran varies from 90 to 320 feet Geology and Mineralogy.''^ — This parish presents but few fea- tures interesting in a geological point of view. The surface, al- though varied and irregular, and raised up into small hills and rising grounds, and intersected by hollows and chasms, yet affords but an occasional view of the solid strata. In the higher grounds, and in those places where the soil has been opened up, and quar- ried for building, the solid strata are occasionally discovered, but in other places they are covered up by deep diluvial beds, the thickness of which it would be difficult to determine. The hol- lows, ingeneral, are not traversed by any stream of magnitude sufficient to disclose the nature of the adjacent rocks : hence our * For this section, and for inlbrmation on other points connnected with Uiis re- port, the writer has to acknowledge his obligations to James Christie, Esq. Banff. ALVAH. 149 report upon this head has been attended with more difficulty than was at first anticipated. Enough, however, has been seen to af- ford sufficient evidence of the structure and superposition of the solid strata. The direction of the strata is from north-east to south-west, or perhaps, where. the strata have been more than usually deranged, varying a point or two nearer the south on the one hand, and the north on the other; and the dip is to the north-west and south- east at right angles to the direction. The eastern side of the pa- rish is watered by the river Doveran, the banks of which, and the lower grounds, are a deep alluvial loam, resting on a bed of blue clay, intermixed with clay-slate, in broken fragments and in a state of dissolution. Indeed, it appears to me, that the bed of blue clay on which the alluvial and vegetable soils rest, is almost whoU ly a formation arising from the disintegration and dissolution of the clay-slate on which they are reposing. The vegetable soil on the lower grounds of the other parts of the parish is also reposing on a bed of diluvial coarse clay, and occasionally intermiied with thin veins or beds of ferruginous sand, shingle, and water^worn boulders ; and on the higher grounds, around the hills of Tipper- ty, Alvah, &c. the soil reposes on beds of sand and shingle, inter- mixed with fragments of greywact^e slate, &c. These are resting, throughout the whole parish, on a bed of clay-slate, which again is resting on a bed of greywacke, and on which the clay-slate lies in a conformable position, and in its lower strata following the windings of that mineral, with which, at their junction, the grey- wacke passes into greywacke slate, and for some distance alter- nates with the clay-slate. The greywacke is intersected with thin veins of quartz, the greatest thickness of which may be about four or five inches. These veins ramify through the mass, dimi* nisbing in size till they totally disappear. The angle of elevation of the clay-slate is different at different places. Towards the top of the hill of Alvah, the clay-slate is standing almost vertical; but on descending the hill the angle diminishes, and in the lower grounds, where the strata are less deranged, it is found almost ho- rizontaU I cannot, with certainty, determine the existence of any fault or dike by which the strata are deranged. The upper bed of the hill of Tipperty, toward the base, is clay-slate, but towards the top of the hill, coarse mica-slate passing into secondary gneiss crops out ; but we are unable to determine the strata on which these last repose. 150 BANFFSIHRE. Rolled blocks were formerly common throughout the parish ; but on the surface of the cultivated ground most of them have yielded to an improved husbandry long ago. A few blocks of greywacke, similar to the rocks in sitUj are still to be seen on the waste and rising grounds, between the farms of Clayfolds and Sandlaw ; and on the hill of Maunderlea, on the south-western boundary of the parish, a number of rolled blocks of granite, coarse mica-slate, gneiss, quartz, and trap, are still to be seen on the surface, and many similar are found deeply imbedded in the soil. Various blocks of sandstone are also intermixed, of a coarse and hard texture, altogether different from any sandstone rock within the county ; but most of those of a larger size have beei^ fashioned into rabbets and lintels, or otherwise employed as mate- rials for building. The existence of flints in Scotland is a recent discovery, the ehalk formation in which they form a constituent part of the up- per beds, being there unknown. Notwithstanding, flints have now been found both in this and the neighbouring parishes, which ge- ologists have considered to be the true chalk flints. They are common on the sea shore, intermixed with the shingle along the beach adjacent to Banff, and have also been traced to Gamrie, and to the eastward as far as Peterhead. A large deposit of flints was 6rst discovered in the hill of Delgaty, imbedded in a sort of unctuous clay, intermixed with nodules of quartz and shingle. They have also been discovered by Colonel Gordon of Park, lit the parish of Ordiquhill, and they have been met with in the hill of Alvah, and in different other places within the parish. As there are no chalk- beds in this country, it appears evident that the flints and other debris, dissimilar to the rocks in situ, must have been brought there by some mighty inundation from a great distance, sweeping off the superior strata from extensive tracts which they once covered, and spreading and throwing them toge- ther in indiscriminate masses at great distances from the range, with which they have every appearance of having been once con- nected. To this great cause we cannot help assigning the great mass of the upper beds of coarse clay, intermixed with every va- riety of the debris of rock, neither to be found here tit situ^ nor at any known distance from the spot. To this general covering of water-worn debris then, torn from all the strata, the name of dilu- vium has been given by geologists, from that great and universal catastrophe to which it appears most properly assignable. Within ALVAH. 151 this parish there are qo data from which we might form even a probable conjecture, in regard to the direction of this mighty cur- rent. Were we, however, permitted to travel beyond our bounds, we might remark, in passing, that, in the neighbouring parish of Boyndie, a narrow line of water-worn boulders of hornblend and hypersthene, many of them weighing more than thirty tons, runs from a north-easterly to a south-westerly dFrection, and which are traced more than thirty miles in that line through part of the pa- rishes of Boyndie, Ordiquhill, Grange, Keith, Cairney, &c. while no rock on that line, of the same kind, is found in situ. No organic remains are known to have been found within the parish, neither of plants nor animals, neither the ores of any of the metals, with the exception of iron, which, in combination with the mineral, gives it its colouring matter. Zoology.* — The mammalia, and indeed most of the other ani- mals, are, with perhaps a few exceptions, precisely the same in number and character in this parish as they are in most of the parishes immediately adjoining. Pearls are occasionally found in the Doveran. They are, how- ever, of very small size, and of no great brilliancy. Entomology. — On this head it may be mentioned that a few years ago, a large and beautiful specimen was found at Montblairy, in this parish, of the death's-head hawk-moth (Sphinx atropos). This insect is said to advance with the cultivation of the potato. Mr Duncan, in his History of British Moths (Naturalists' Library, Vol. xiv.) does not take notice of any example of it having been hitherto met with so far north. The specimen now mentioned is in the possession of a gentleman in Banff. Botany. — This parish possesses a highly interesting Flora ; but, from a list of about 460 species transmitted by the writer, we have only room for the insertion of the following planUB rariores : Adoxamoscbatellina Bidena cernua Epilobium angustifolium Ag^monia Eupatoria Botrychium Lunaria Prag^ria veaca Aira cristata Brarhypodium sylvaticum Galeopsis versicolor Akbemilla alpina Brisa media Galium boreale Alisma Plantago Bromtis asper Mollugo Anagallis arvenala >>>,,>,>*.,, giganteiM Geranium pratense .,^.„.„,^,>.. tenella Campanula latifolia sylvaticum Arenaria trinervis ' Cbrysosplenium alternifo- Goodyera repens Asperula odorau Hum "^ Habenaria viridis Asplenium Adiantum-ni- Circaea alpina Heliantbemum Tulgare grum Droeera rotundifolia Hippuris vulgaris * A detailed account of tbe zoology of the parish, for which the writer was indebt- ed to the Rev. James Smith, Banflf, a gentleman highly distinguished both in moral and natural science, is preserved along with tbe MS. 152 BANPPSUIRB. Hyocinthus nOD-acriptuB Parnasua palustris Sciipui syWaticus Hypericum hirsutum Peplis Portula Sedum yilloeum ,... ^^.*^ perforatum Polypodium Dryopteris Silene inflate .,, ^...m» >.>.. quadrangulum Potamogeton lucens Sisymbrium thalianum Lamium album Pyrola media Solidago yirgaurea Lepidium Smithii -^ .^ minor Spergula nodoaa Linnea borealu Radiola millegrana Stellaria nemorum Listera oordata Rubua corylifolius Veronica scutellate Litbospermum aryeose aaxatilis Viburnum Opulua Lotus major Sanicula Europaoa Utriculata vulgaris Melampyrum pratense Sazifraga aizoides ■■ minor Omithopus perpusillus Scandiz Pecten Plantations. — There are about 750 imperial acres under wood, nearly 300 of which have been planted within the last forty years. The trees most generally planted are the Scotch Gr and larch, intermixed occasionally with a considerable proportion of beech, ash, oak, elm, plane, birch, alder, horse-chesnut, Spanish chesnut, lime, poplar, silver-fir, spruce-fir, service-tree, mountain»ash, la- burnum, holly, &c. &c. Judging by the comparative growth, the particular species of trees do not, in every instance, especially in the earliest plantations, appear to have been placed in the soil most congenial to their growth. The experience of the past, however, will, it is probable, prevent in future the occurrence of such mistakes as may have been committed in this respect. As yet, it seems doubtful whether the soil generally is more conge- nial to the Scotch fir or to the larch. It is plain, however, that there are many stations more favourable to the one than to the other, and not a few unfavourable to both, where, notwithstanding, spruce and silver fir, as also beech and oak, are of vigorous growth. In regard to Scotch firs,* the result of many experiments seems to have rendered it certain, that plants raised from seed collected from the natural forest, grow more vigorously, and produce timber of better quality than the common plants of the nursery. The fine thriving firs immediately behind the house of Dunlugas were raised from plants of the former description, and by the accus- tomed eye might be distinguished as such, from the peculiar tinge of their foliage. Upon the whole, with a few exceptions in the more elevated localities exposed to the blast of the north, the soil of the parish is well adapted to the* growth of timber of various kinds ; and if any opinion may be formed from the success of for- mer plantations, the soil, if judiciously selected, is congenial to a * The Scotch fir of this part of the country is, properly speaking, the Canadian fir. The true Scotch fir is more red in the colour, its bark has a cleaner and shining appearance, its boughs are more gnarled, its timber is reckoned of superior quality, and altogether its appearance is more majestic and picturesque. It may be seen in perfection at Marr Lodge. 4 ALVAH. 153 much greater proportion of ash, oak, beech, etm, Spruce, add sil- ver fir, thaD has yet been introduced.* 11. — Civil History. Documents f Transactions^ ^c. — In the. Advocates' Library at Edinburgh, is preserved a very ancient parcbment,f containing^the particulars of a transaction connected with this parish, at a dis- tance of more than 500 years. This document is a charter of do-, nation made by Marjory^ relict of the deceased John Earl of AthoU, Lord Strathalveth, with consent of her son David, her law- ful heir. The tenor of the donation is, that for the salvation of her own soul, as well as that of her deceased husband, John, Ekirl of Atholl, Lord Strathalveth, and of her father Donald,§ Earl of Mar, she gives to the blessed Virgin Mary, to God, and to the Abbot of Cupar, the right of patronage of the kirk of Alveth, with the whole lands of Kirktown of Alveth next the kirk. The charter, after the usual preamble, details very minutely the * We have every reason to believe, that, if the following species were introduced here, th^ would thrive better and prove more useful than any of the pines and firs now culuvated in this quarter : Pinua undnata^ P, re^inowa^ P. Pyreitaica, P. pinea, P. Laricio, P, mitU^ P. Gerardina, P, Strobus, P, exceUa^ Able* pinea^ A. Webbiana, A. Douglastii^ &c« t This parchmenl was formerly one of the manuscripts of the late William Rose, Esq. of Montcoffer, to whose son, Patrick Rose, Esq. Banff, the writer is indebted for the copy now, for the first time, published. The writer has also to acknowledge his obligations to the same gentleman for affording him the use of the materials, out of which the report on this head has chiefly been drawn. X This countess was the daughter of Donaldi aiias Bayne, Earl of Mar, and wife of John, tenth Earl of Atholl and Strathbogie. This Earl of Atholl was a great pa- triot, and joined Robert Bruce at the battle of Methven ; but, being afterwards du- covered, was conducted to London, where, notwithstanding his alliance by blood, to the English monarch, he was condemned and executed A.D. 1306. In consequence of bis royal descent, be was hanged on a scaffold thirty foet higher than ordinary. Before life was extinct, he was taken down, when his head was cut off, and fixed on London Bridge, and his body burnt to ashes. As a ransom for his soul, his widow gave the lands of Alvah, ut supra. David, eleventh Earl of Atholl, was son and heir of the above-mentioned countess, and of John Earl of Atholl and Strathbogie, and gave his consent to the above-men- tioned donation. He was a fiivoarite of King Robert Bruce, and was made High Constable of Scotland in 1311. Having afterwards withdrawn his allegiance, and revolted to the English nronarch, the office of High Constable was given to Sir Gil- bert Hay, and Atholl's estates were forfeited. He was married to Joan Cumyn, eld- est daughter and coheiress of John Lord Badenoch, and by her had a son, David de Strathbogie, the twelfth Earl of AthoU. It is said be had other sons, from whom the M'Intoshes, DufllV, &o. are believed to be descended. § Thu Donald, Earl of Mar, father of the Countess of Atholl, Strathbogie, and Strathalvah, was taken prisoner at the battle of Methven, confined eight years in Lon- don, exchanged for an English nobleman taken at Bannockburn, and conducted to Scotland in 1314. About this time he appears to have died, for the charter of confir- mation accompanying the charter of donation, is granted by bis son and successor, Thomas Earl of Mar, on the 19th March in the same year. From an old and scarce work entitled ^^ Ind^ to Charters by Ring David II,** it appears that thb Thomas, Earl of Mar, granted a charter of the lands of Sandhaugh, (now called Sandlaw,) and of the half of Auchenbadie to Thomas Hill, a person of whose history nothing is now known. 154 BANFFSHIRE. boundaries of the donation, in the following words — ^' usq. ad me- ta versus villa de Banff que dicitur lie Stanemannishead juxta commune de Banff antedict. ex boreali, descendendo in aqua de Dowern cum dicta aqua et piscatione ejusd. ascendendo ad lie meir- burn ex oriental! usq. ad lie blackbank et fowlfurd et inde exten- dendo ad knockne ex australi, ascendendo rivulem statent de lie Claretwell usq ad via ascendendo slakmethy et inde descendendo per via usq. ad slacklethy descendendo ad fontem et rivulem ejusd. usq ad redbank et illius ascendendo torrent fluent in aqua de Do- wern usq. at Ranate hillok et inde ad lie Crukithillok et ad lie Scurryfurd ascendendo ad magnam fovea vulgariter lie Greit slack et Rishypannisy descendendo ad lie Comeswell et inde ad fontem Sancti Joannis et bludypotts ad burgusaet stains inter communam de Banff et terra ecclesiastica de Alveth antedict ex occidentali partibus cum aliis omnibus terris avisamentis simulet et libertati- bus." This charter is dated at Aberbrothwick, ** a. d. 131 4, die XX. proximo post Sancti Pauli Apli," and is signed by many witnesses, among whom are the Bishops of Dunkeld and Brechin, the Abbots of Dumfermling and Aberbrothwick, with several knights and persons of distinction. The above-mentioned donation is accompanied by a charter of confirmation, granted by Thomas Earl of Mar, Lord Strathalveth, signed and sealed, '' apud Moravien. sedem an. dni 1314, et 19 marcij,'' in presence of many witnesses of distinction. To this charter of confirmation there is a docquet subjoined in the holograph of Thomas Deir, designed ^' clericus St Andrese dioc ac sacra aplica aucto : No- tarius," by which Henry, Bishop of Aberdeen, confirms the said donations, 1375. The charters of donation and confirmation, of which we have here given the substance, are very interesting as documents of great antiquity, and if rightly interpreted may yet become important in other respects. The northern boundary of the parish of Alvah can- not, at present, be precisely determined by the oldest inhabitant, nor, in so far as the writer has been able to discover, are there any existing documents, excepting the charter before us, which seem at all calculated to throw any light on the subject If the localities here mentioned could be exactly determined, the question would doubtless be set at rest ; but the face of the country has undergone so many important changes from the progress of improvement, that it is now impossible to identify the present names of places, with names which have, probably, long since been changed and forgotten. 3 ALVAH. 155 Several of the places mentioned in the charter, however, are known by the same names at the present day, — a circumstance which en- ables us to form a more probable conjecture with regard to the lo- calities of the rest; and accordingly with this assistance and that of the native octogenarians and others, we have given in a note* * To determine the precise locality of the Stanemannishead is the first and greatest diflSouIty which presents itself in tracing the bounds of this ancient donation. From the woriis of the charter, the Stanemannishead must have extended on the north to the town lands of BanfF, and these lands are known from tradition and other evidence, to have stretched into the interior of the country as far as Cairnelpie, situated on the Dorth-eastern angle of the farm of Wardend, and are supposed to have been bounded by a line, nearly straight, passing from thence to the river Doveran, in the direction of the row of old thorn trees which crosses the upper end of the deer-park. That part of the parish which lies adjacent to this line is now called Craig-head,— a name which bears some distant resemblance to the Stanemannishead, and in terms of the charter lies due north of the church of Alvah. Supposing this line, then, to mark tlie boun- dary on the north, we are now directed, in tracing the eastern limit, to ascend the river Doveran as far as the Meirbum, This name, although now almost forgotten, is still remembered by a few as the name formerly given to tlie small burn which flows be- tween the farms of Mill of Alvah and Clay folds. On ascending this streamlet, in terms of the charter, we arrive at Blackbank and Fowlfurd, places which, although now unknown by these names, must have stood on the same burn a little below the present manse. A little farther up lies Knokkne, a place which still retains its an- cient name. From this we are directed to ascend the stream which flows from Cla- ret-well, until we come to the road ascending to Slakmethy. The Claret-well is still known by the same name, and the stream which flows from it is only the upper end of the'Meirburn — circumstances which confirm the opinion given in regard to the previously mentioned localities. The road ascending southward to Slackmethy, (al- though this name it now forgotten), can be no other than the road ascending to the place DOW called Berryhillocks, and the descent from thence to Slacklethy must be the conti* nuation of the same slack to the place now called Kemplemire. From the well at Slack- 1ethy( Kemplemire,) the charter directs us to follow the stream to its junction, at Red- bank, with the torrent which flows into Doveran. Redbank must be identified with Path-head, and the torrent passing this and flowing into Doveran is the burn of Stony- lea. Ascending this burn, as directed, we arrive at Ranate hillock, a place which probably corresponds with what is now called Ranald's hillock, situated on the same burn a little below Bythestown. Farther up we come to the Crukit-hillock, a name which, although now lost, is quite descriptive of the Broomhillock below Firfolds. Still farther up is Scurryfurd, which is probably the place where an old road now crosses the marshy hollow north-west of Bythestown, near the Slacks. We are neit directed to ascend to the Greit Slack and Rishypannis. The Greit Slack is, no doubt, the Slacks of Tipperty, which commence immediately above the supposed locality of Scurryfurd. Rishypannis or Rishypans is a name not uncommon in this part of the country, and probably the Rishypannis of the charter may have been somewhere about the lower and once marshy extremity of the Slacks of Tipperty. From these Slacks a hollow on the farm of Tipperty leads di reedy *to the next sUtion,. viz. Comes well — a well which still retains its ancient name. In completing the circuit, we are now directed to proceed from Comeswell to St John's well, and Bludypott*s ad Burgusst stains inter communam de Banff et terra ecclesiastic! de Alveth- llie site of St John*s Wi>Il is now unknown, and that of Bludypott*s can only be conjectured. In regard to the Burgusst stains we have more certainty. One of these was dug up more than twenty years ago, near the wood of Bauchlaw, on the north-east angle of the form of Wardend. The letter B was rudely carved on it, and tradition had pre- viously marked the spot where it was found, as the point to which the Banff lands at one period extended. With true antiquarian taste and feeling, this stone was broken down and employed as material for building. Near the place where it was discovered, once stood a cairn known by the name of Cairnelpie, in removing which, the fragments of a human skeleton were found. According to taadition, these were the remains of a person murdered here in former times, and as the cairn once stood on the margin of 156 BANFFSHIRE. below what we conceive to have formed the probable boundaries of this ancient donation; which, if our conjecture be right, will point out the northern boundary of the parish. We need only farther remark at present, that the boundary of the donation which we have attempted to trace, comprehends almost the whole of the lands possessed by the present Earl of Fife, within this parish, west of the river Doveran ; and if, (as the best accredited genealo- gies affirm,) his Lordship be descended from the Atholl family, it is a very curious fact, that he should be in possession, at the pre- sent day, of the lands which were given away by his ancestor at the distance of 524 years. It was the writer's intention to have, traced the succession of landed property in the parish from the date of the above-mention- ed charter down to the present time : but materials accumulated to an extent so incompatible with a work of this description, that he has found it necessary to present only a few detached fragments of the more interesting and less generally known portions of this part of our history. In the *^ Registrum Magni Sigilli Regum Scotorum in Archi- vis publicis asservatum," is found (at page 250,) the confirmation of a grant, of date 1410, by Alexander Stewart, Earl of Marr and Garviach, (Garioch,) and Dominus de Dufle in Brabant, to bis brother Andrew Stewart, of the lands of Sandhalch, (Sandlaw,) in the barony of Montblairy. This Earl of Marr and his brother Andrew, were two of the five natural sons of Alexander Stewart, Earl of Marr, better known by the appropriate name of the Wolf of Badenoch. In 1426, Douglas, Lord Balveny had a grant of Strathalvah confirmed by King James I. After the forfeiture of Douglas, the Lordship of Balveny. reverting to the crown, was in a deep and extensive pood, the place at an earl j period may probably have obtained the name of Bludypotts.- Thus have we arrived at the place from which we set out, namely, the Stanemannishead — a place already identified with what is now called Craighead. This Craighead, as already mentioned, stretches in a line from the Bur- gusset stains at Bludypotts or Cairnelpie to the river Doveran, and this line across the upper end of the deer-park is now pretty generally considered the northern boundary of the parish of Alvah, although there are some who positively maintain that the pa- rish extends a considerable distance farther to the north. If a few more of the Bur- gusaet stains vrere discovered between Cairnelpie and Doveran, the boundary, perhaps, might be determined with greater ceruinty. In regard to the boundary which we have now traced, it need .only be farther remarked, that the ascents and descents, the heights and hollows, the points of the compass, and the course ot the streams, all cor- respond with the terms of the charter,— circumstances, which, taken in connection with the names still extant, render it highly probable that the above outline is pretty accurately delineated. The northern boundary of the Stanemannishead is the only point about which any doubt can be entertained. Mr Cowie has the principal merit of tracing the boundaries of this ancient donation. ALVAH. 157 1460 disponed to Sir John Stewart, afterwards created Earl of Atholl ; but with this lordship he does not seem to have received any of the lands of Alvah, for we find that his younger brother. Sir James Stewart, received a charter of Strathalvah from King James II. in 1466, and of the lands of Sandlach (Sandlaw,) in 1492. These two Stewarts were sons of Sir James Stewart, com- monly called the Black Knight of Lorn, and of Joanna, dowager of King James L, and were, tM>nsequently, uterine brothers of King James II., for which they seem to have been distinguished by many marks of royal favour. The former (Sir John Stewart,) was created Earl of Atholl, and the latter, (Sir James Stewart, known also by the name of Hearty James,) received Strathalvah and Sand- law, as already stated, and was created Earl of Buchan in 1469, and appointed great Chamberlain of Scotland in 1471. From seve- ral existing charters, it appears that the Stewarts, and afterwards the Douglases, Earls of Buchan, retained property in the parish of Alva upwards of 1 50 years after the last mentioned date. From the worked printed by command of King George III. in 181 1, and entitled, ^' Inquisitionum ad Capellam Domini Regis Retornatum, quae in publicis archivis Scotiae adbuc servantur abbreviatis,"* it ap- * From this work the fbllowlng excerpts may be quoted as poesessing great local iDterect at the present time : Feb. 19. 1593. — Joannes Johnston, hcrcs Georgii Johnston, de eodem, jyo^Hx^ — in annuo reditu L. 40 de Tillis et terris de Sandlaw in paroehia de Strathavauch. December 17, 1624.— Alexander Fraser de Philorth, hseres masculus domini A1- exandri Fraser de Fraserburgh militts, patrU^^-in terris de Tibbertie* (Tipperty) ; villa et terris de Outlaw (ItUw); terris de Forefauldis (Firfold) ; rilla et terris de Bremlaw (Greenlaw) ; villa et terris de Feltiehead, (Fattyhead,) cum Newtown de Outlaw. October 7, 1625. Waltenis Ogilvie de Banff, lueres domini Georgii OgiWie de Dunluggas, militis, patrit, — in terris de Outlaw et Upperties comprehendentibus terras dominicales vulgo Maynes de Tipperty, Broekiestowo* Kiltrie-knock, Briggis billockt Barbit hill, Rosybum cum molendino. January 11, 1628. — Dom. Geo. Ogilrie de Camousies, miles, baronetus, hseres Georgii Ogilvie de Carnousie, jM^rlf,— 'in terris de Nether Dachries (Deuchries) in- fra baroniam de Strathalvach— terris de Craighead de Alva, et terris vocatis Keaw in paroehia de Alva. June 15, 1648.— Patricius Comes de Kinghorne, Dominus Lyon et Glames, hseres masculus Joannis Comitis de Kinghorne, domini Lyon et Glames, patrit, — in dimi- dietate terrarum et Baronia de Montblairy et salmonum piscarise in dicta aqua de Doveme ; dimidietate terrarum de Rylands, dimidietate BUcktown, Hairwood-hill, ( Herod-hill) Over Deuchries, dimidietate Auchinbadie cum pLscatione, dimidietate Stanieley, Batgray et Knockin. August 5, 1669 Christina, Isobella, et Elizabetha Hackats, haeredes portionarias Walteri Hackat de Meyec, patritf-^ d aratris terrarum baronias de Outlaw, via. 8bovatis terr9 de Outlaw, et 4 bovatis terre, ville, et terrarum de Brockiestown, 8 bovatis terrae villse et terrarum de Outlaw, et 4 bovatis terrK de Outlaw, apud molen- dinum de Rosseburrie, extendentibus, in toto, ad 3 aratra terrarum infra parochiam de Alwacb. October 29, 1695 ^Johannes Commas de Strathmore et Kinghorne, &c. hseres Patrioii Comitis de Strathmore et Kinghorne, vicecomitis Lyon, dom. Glamis— - in reliquo eomitatus et pnedii de Buchan, oomprehendentc (inter aliat V— terras de Mont- blairy, Rylands, Deuehris, BUcktown, Hairwood Hill, Newton de Montbairy. ]53 BANFFSHIRE. pears that Maria Douglas, Countess of Buchan, had in 1 6 1 5, charters of the following lands, in the barony of Montblairy, viz. Waistryne, Newtown, Todlaw, Quhitfield, Smedy town, and Haltown of Mont- blairy, the dominical lands of Auchenbadie with the mill, the lands of Staneley, the other lands of Auchenbadie, and lands of Ryland with the mill. Soon after this, a great part of these lands seems to have passed into other hands ; for from the work just referred to, we find James Earl of Moray in possession of the barony of Montblairy and Ryland in 1619. About seventy or eighty years previously to this date, the other lands of the parish seem to have been possessed chiefly by Sir Walter Ogilvie of Dunlugas, whose rare turn for the acquisition of property is noticed in the present Statistical Account of the parish of Banff. Among the valuable manuscripts which belonged to the late William Rose, Esq. Mont- coffer, was a charter to Sir Walter Ogilvie of Dunlugas, granted 2d February 1593, by the Cistertians of Cupar, of the lands of Al- vah and Inverichny. The lands of Alvah, here mentioned, were, no doubt, the donation of the Countess of Atholl, already particu- larly noticed ; but how the Cistertians became possessed of In- verichny is not very clear. From Nisbet's Append. 171, Inver- ichny would seem to have been mortified to Strathbogie, and pro- bably may have been presented by him to the Abbot of Cupar soon after the donation made by the Countess of Atholl. The charter conveying the above-mentioned lands to Sir Walter Ogilvie is now deposited in the Advocates' Library at Edinburgh, and as it seems to have been quite unknown to all the collectors of antiqui- ties of this kind, it may here be intelligibly presented in the fol- lowing abridged form : " Omnibus, &c. Donaldus, &c Abbas monasterii de Cupro, &c dedisse, &c. Waltero Ogilvy de Dunlu- gas militi et Alisonae Home ejus conjugi et eorum alteri diutius viventi in conjuncta Infeodatione et heredibus suis subscriptis pro nonnullis magnis pecuniarij summis per ipsos nobis in nra magna urgente et cognita necessitate, &c. Totas et integras terras nrs de Alveth et Innerrithny cum piscariis earund. supra aqua de duvern et suis pertinen. infra vicicomita de Banff extenden annu- atim nro in rentali in omnibus proficuis ad summa duodece libra monetae Scotice — Tenendas et Habendas, (viz. said lands, &c. by the said Walter and Alison, and longest liver of them)— et heredi- bus inter ipsos legitime procreatis seu procreandis ; Quibus defi- cien Georgio Ogilvy filio naturali predict Walteri et heredibus suis de corpore suo legitime procreandis ; Quibus Oibus, quod ab- ALVAH. 159 sit, deficientibus legitimis et propinquioribus beredibus dicti Wal- ter! quibuscunq. de nobis et successoribus nrs in feoda firxna em- phiteos et hereditate per omnes rectas metas, &c. &c*— warranted and dated at the Monastery, 2d February 1359 — testtbus Johan- ne Campbell de Calder, milite, Archibaldo Campbell, ejus filio, et berede apparente, et magistro Andrea Barclay," &c. &c. This Sir Walter Ogilvie was the ancestor of Lord Banff, and as his lineal descendant is still the most considerable heritor in the parish, he may, perhaps, with propriety, be more particularly no- ticed. He was grandson of Sir Walter Ogilvie of Auchleven, an- cestor of the first Earl of Findlater, and great grandson of Sir Walter Ogilvie of Lintrathen, High Treasurer of Scotland in 1425, and ancestor of the family of Airly. Besides the proper- ty granted to him, in the parish, by the charter just mentioned, he acquired from Urquhart of Cromarty, in 1 530, the half of Dun- lugas,* Sandlaw, and the haugh of Newton. The other lands of Alvah, excepting Montblairy and Auchinbadie, he obtained from the Erasers of Philorth. He bad also charters of Scatterly and Castletown in the parish of King- Edward, of Blackhill in Moray- shire, the lands of Petty, Braithliern, Strathe, and the^ Castle of Howhill in Inverness-shire, Carnousie, in Banffshire, and Mony- cabok in the county of Aberdeen. From the Barclays of Mont- coffer he acquired the Mains of Montcoffer and Gaveny. By his wife, Alisone Hume, daughter and co-heiress of Sir Patrick Hume of Pastcastle, he had a considerable estate. He had also exten- sive property in the county of Berwick, besides smaller estates in other parts of the country. From Leonard, Commendator of Cu- par, he obtained the teinds of the parish of Alvah, and from the Abbacy of Arbroath the teinds of Banff and Gamrie. His successor, for some time, appears to have rapidly increased the family property, and his great grandson. Sir George Ogilvie, for his eminent loyalty and faithful services, particularly in the action against Montrose and the Covenanters, at the bridge of Dee in 1639, was raised to the Peerage, by the title of First Lord Banff, by King Charles L in 1642. His lineal descendant, the Honourable Lady Aber- cromby of Forglen,*f- daughter of the seventh Lord Banff, still re- * Tbe other half of Dunlugas belonged to John Lord Drumroondi 1490 ; and by gift, 1511, mortified in favour of the King's College, Aberdeen, for the support of a Professor of Theology, and feued to Sir W. Ogilvie by the College for L. 19, Is. Scotch — MS. History of the town of Banff, by W. Rose, Esq. Montcoffer. f The Honourable hady Abercromby died in 1838, and has been succeeded by her, son Sir Robert Abercromby of Birkenbog and Forglen, Bart. BANFF. h I<)0 BAJ^FFSHIRE. tains an ext^sive portion of the lands of her ancestors, and is, at present, the most considerable proprietor in the parish. Eminent Characters. — This parish has produced but few indivi- duals en)inently distinguished* Dr George Chapman may, perhaps, with some hesitation, be mentioned as one. By a reference to the re- gister of baptisms, it appears that he was born at Little Blacktown, and baptised August 18, 1723. A minute in the session records also intimates, that, while a student in philosophy, he taught the school of his native parish. He afterwards acquired distinguished reputation as a teacher and a scholar, at Dalkeith, Dumfries, Inch* drewer, and Banff. He finally removed to Edinburgh, where for some years he carried on business as a printer, and at the same time, received boarders, the instruction of whom formed his favou- rite recreation almost to the close of a life which extended to the fige of eighty-three years. His " Treatise on Education,"" and his other smaller publications on the same subject, were, at the time of tlieir appearance, justly esteemed for their practical utility. The name of another individual, to whose memory a monumeni has been erected at the public expense, may also be allowed a place in the statistics of the parish in which he resided, and ia which, his memory is.still cherished with respect. The late Ma- jor General Andrew Hay, who sold the estate of Montblairy to the uncle of the present proprietor, was distinguished in the parish by his generous and public spirit, no less than by bis valour in the field. To perpetuate his military fame, an elegant monument has been erected in St Paul's Cathedral, London, bearing the follow- ing inscription : '^ Erected at the public expense to the memory of Major General Andrew Hay. He was born in the county of Banff in Scotland, and fell on the 14th of April 1814, before the Fortress of Bayonne, in France, in the fifty-second year of his age and the thirty-fourth of his services, closing a military life, marked by zeal, prompt decision, and signal intrepidity." Land-Qicners. — The only heritors in the parish are, Lady Abercromby, who possesses the patronage of the church; the Earl of Fife; the Trustees of the late Earl James Fife ; Alexander Mo- rjson, Esq. of Montblairy ; Hans George Leslie, Esq. of Dunlu- gas; and Harry I^ith Lumsden, Esq. of Rosyburn. It is but justice to say that they are all liberal and encouraging to indus- trious tenants. The only resident proprietors are Mr Morison and Mr Leslie. Parochial Beffisters.^^These consist of one quarto and six folio ALVAH. 161 volumes, and appear to have been regularly kept, in so far, per- haps, as the keepers were concerned. But, from the numerous applications for extracts of births and marriages, which are not to be found in the registers, it is evident, that, until within a recent period, both births and marriages have been very irregularly entered. Each successive keeper of these registers appears also to have made his entries after a form of his own, and in some cases, Ihese entries are very defective in point of information. For instance the date of baptism is often recorded without the date of birth, and without mentioning the place of residence. The father's name is also often recorded without that of the mother ; and the residence or designation of witnesses, until of late years, appears never to have been noticed. These and other irregularities, it is believed, prevail to a great extent in our parochial registers, and should any change take place in the mode of keeping them, this is a point to which the devisers of a better scheme, ought to be particularly directed. It might tend, perhaps, to secure uniformity and regularity, if the pages of our registers were uniformly printed, and draughted in the form of schedules, with spaces left to be filled up with dates, names, places of residence^ and other essential de- tails. Each page should also be subscribed by the name of the keeper of the register, and every exertion made to enforce regis- tration. Our earliest recorded baptism is dated May 17, 1718, and the earliest minute of session. May 13, 1718. The earlier records are said to have been destroyed by accidental fire : — Others main- tain that they were carried off by Mr George Campbell, minis- ter of the parish, who, in 1718, was ejected from his charge on account of his adherence to Episcopacy. AiUiquities. — Scarcely any remains of antiquity are now to be found in the parish. Some years ago, a tumulus was opened on the farm of Sandlaw, containing several rudely sculptured vases of baked earth. In a tumulus, on the farm of Boghead, were found several vases of a similar kind, containing ashes. G>ntiguous to this tumulus is a large stone called carlin kistj supposed to be part of a *' cromlech,*' or kist-vaen. In digging into a smallgra* vel hillock, near Montblairy, a rude stone case or coffin, about four feet square, was discovered, and, on removing the stone which formed the lid, were found some ashes and a few fragments of cal« cined bones. In digging graves in the churchyard, several vases containing ashes have been found, but differing from others dist 162 BANPFSHIUG. covered in the parish^ in having handles attached) and in being glazed over with a substance resembling the exterior coating of the coarse earthen-ware of the present day; On the eastern brow of the hill of Alvah^ is a large tumulus or cairn, consisting chiefly of small stones and earth. It is of an elliptical formy covering an area of about 20 falls, and in the centre rising to the height of 7 or 8 feet, but has never been sufficiently opened to disclose any re- mains of antiquity. Two smaller unopened cairns are also to be seen on the hill of Tipperty, and on the farm of Itlaw. There is also on the farm of Auchenbadie an apparently artificial mound of earth, nearly fifty feet high. It is known by the name of Ha^iiU; but there is no tradition respecting it, nor have any remains of antiquity been found in it. On the farm of Burreldales, there remain four large stones of a Druidical circle, and on the farm of Newtown of Montblairy, one large stone marks the site where, a few years ago, stood another circle of much larger dimensions. Some time ago, a Druidical circle was found under ground, in dig- ging deep into an old garden on the farm of Wardend. The ruins of the ancient castle which once stood near Montblairy are levelled with the ground, and the swamp on which it stood has now be- come a fruitful field. According to tradition, the castle in ques- tion was built by one of the Stewarts, Eark of Buchan ; but by which of them, or for what purpose, the writer has been unable to discover. In regard to the ancient chapel, (now also entirely de- molished), which stood in its vicinity, tradition is entirely silent. As already stated, Alexander Stewart, Earl of Mar, had the ba- rony of Montblairy, about the year 1400, and, as it is certain that he founded a chaplainry in the Garioch, the chapel in question may, probably, have been something in connection with that foun- dation. Whilst noting antiquities, it may also be mentioned that about 1000 acres of the poorest soil in the parish bear marks of cultivation at a period very remote ; and that in the haughs of Sandlaw, and in the moss to the north of Maunderlea, and else- where, trees of considerable size have been frequently found deeply imbedded in the soil. In the haughs of Sandlaw, they have been discovered lying at the depth of 8 or 10 feet from the surface; and in the moss, many of the trees, consisting chiefly of fir, oak, and alder, bear the marks of fire distinctly visible, while others are found with the roots uppermost, near the surface, and with their trunks deeply sunk* In some cases, the root of one tree has been found right above the stump of another. ALVAH. 163 Modem Buildings. — Under this head, the parish presents little worthy of particular notice. The house of Montblairy, the pro- perty of Alexander Morison, Esq. was built in 1791 by the late Major-General Andrew Hay, whose name has been already men- tioned. It is a substantial and commodious ediBce of three storeys. A considerable addition was made to it in 1 825. Within the last two years, it has received a thorough repair, and its outward ap- pearance is now ?ery handsome and tasteful. Its situation amid thriving plantations on a fine sloping bank, on the west side of the Doveran, is particularly delightful, and the large and beautiful quadrangle of offices erected on the wooded rising-ground behind the house, adds not a little to the beauty of the scene, when viewed from the opposite side of the river. The southern fa9ade of this quadrangle is adorned in the centre with an elegant portico, sup- ported by four massy columns of the Ionic order, and surmounted by a corresponding entablature and pediment. An attic storey ex* tends from one end of the building to the other, and the whole is constructed of beautifully dressed granite. It may be noticed, while on this subject, that in the house of Montblairy, are to be found a few paintings which deserve the at- tention of the lover, whether of the arts or of history. Of these may be mentioned as the most valuable, either as works of art or as representations of remarkable individuals, — an original portrait of the Admirable Crichton,* transmitted, according to tradition, by Crichton himself from Mantua to the Laird of Frendraught, to whom he was related ; — six portraits^ by Jameson, including the great Montrose, and the infamous Lady Frendraught, whose cruelty in setting fire to the house of Frendraught is commemorated in a well known popular ballad ; — portraits of Peter the Great, and Prince Menzikoff, presented by the Czar himself to Gordon of Auchentoul, who was a General in the Russian service, and wrote * Mr Tytler mentions, in his life of Crichton, that there are thiee origioal per* traits in this country of that famed individual ; one in the possession of Colonel Crich- ton, Edinburgh ; and another belonging to Mr Stirling of Airthf both of which he has seen, and from the former of which his engraving was taken. The third is the one in question, which Mr Tytler never saw. Judging from the engraving in his book, the present portrait would appear to be much superior to the one made use of by Mr Tytler. It is indeed regarded by judges as a painting of great merit, and is also in an excellent state of preservation, l^e painter, in so far as we are aware, is unknown. f These portraits are but in an indifferent state of preservation. The truth is, that, owing to the extremely thin covering which Jameson used, or else to accidental circumstanw'ei, the portraits of our Soottisli Vandyke (as he has not uiyustly been termed) are, in so far as we have had opportunities of seeing them, rapidly hasten* ing to decay. 164 BANFFSHIRE. A life of the above-mentioned illustrious monarch ; — a portrait of Bonaparte, when first consul, by Le Fevre ; — a singular portrait* 300 years old, of Barbara, Countess of Flanders, painted on a green ground, and supposed from this and other circumstances to be from the pencil of Holbein ; — portraits of the Prince of Orange and of the Duke of Alva, &c. About half a mile below Montblairy, on the opposite side of the river, stands the house of Dunlugas, the property of Hans Greorge Leslie, Esq. This house, built of granite, in 1793, consists of three stories, and is substantial, commodious, and elegant. With the exception of Duff House, perhaps no residence in the county of Banff is more delightfully situated. A beautiful and extensive lawn, partially adorned with lofty trees, which are tastefully dispos- ed for effect, stretches in front to the margin of the river, and the ground, rising somewhat abruptly behind, is covered chiefly with thriving firs, whose dark foliage is finely contrasted with the light and more varied tints spread over the scene below. Milb. — Within the last thirty, years, 31 thrashing-mills have been erected in the parish, seven of which are driven by horses, and 24 by water. There are also six meal-mills, one malt«mill, and one lint-mill ; but none of these last have been recentlv erected. The whole of the mills now mentioned are built of clay-slate, the pre- vailing rock within the parish. There is still one remnant of thir- lage in the parish. ni. — Population. According to Dr Webster the population in 1755 was 1)61 Sir John Sinclair, 1782, 1070 Under direction of Parliament, . 1811, 991 Do, Do. 1 82 1 , males 521 , females 558, total 1 079 Do. Do. 1831, 631, 645; 1278 1841, . . 1407 In order to answer the additional inquiries on this head, the following results have been obtained from an exact survey made in December 1887 : Persons under 15 years of age, . 479 betwixt 15 and 30, . 362 30 and 50, . . 261 50 and 70, . . 150 upwards of 70, . 56 Total population in 1837, . 1308 Bachelors and widowers above 50, * 24 Unmarried women above 45, S5 Number of families, . . 252 Average number of children in each family, . 2 Houses inhabited, . . 246 not inhabited, or now building, « 8 ALVAH. 165 « From the above tables it appears, that, during the fifty-six years which elapsed between 1755 and 1811, there was a remarkable decrease of 170 in the population of the parish, and that during the twenty years which elapsed between 1811 and 1831, there has been an increase of 287. Some years after 1755, the parish be- gan to assume a new aspect, by the introduction of the improyed system of husbandry, in the prosecution of which most of the formers removed their subtenants, and began to farm on a more oKtensive scale, and to this cause alone is to be ascribed the par- tial depopulation which took place during the period in question. Since 181 1, the nuoober of subtenants removed has been very in- considerable, and much more than compensated by the introduc- tion of a number of crofters, who are now thickly and extensively scattered over the drearier districts of the parish, and are rapidly bringing into cultivation large tracts of waste land, which, at one time, were scarcely thought susceptible of improvement. Thus both the decrease between 1755 and 1811, and the increase be- tween 1811 and 1831 are easily accounted for. The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 32®, of which one-thirteenth are illegitimate. Tiie yearly average of mar- riages for the last seven years is 4i. No register of deaths is kept The number of persons of independent fortune is 2, viz. the two resident heritors. There are no proprietors of land but the six heritors formerly mentioned. The number of persons insane is 1 ; fatuous, 1 ; and blind, 2. The language generally spoken is a coarse mixture of Scotch and English, with an accent broad and drawling ; but within the last forty years, considerable improvement in this respect is certainly perceptible. There are no customs, games, or amusements peculiar to this part of the country. As a general fact, indeed, it may be observed, that all ranks and ages seem to have lost much of the relish for what formerly constituted the chief amusements of their forefathers. The habits of the peo-: pie are in general cleanly, although among the poorer classes, ne* gligence in this respect, particularly in the matter of dress and bed-clothes, is but too frequently met with, and is, no doubt, oc casionally the foundation of disease. The ordinary food of (he peasantry consists of milk, meal, kail, or colewort, turnips, and potatoes, variously prepared. Among the aged poor, particularly females, tea is used to a great, perhaps to an injurious extent Beef, mutton, bacon, or fish, seldom forms any part of the labour- er's dinner; but it is to be hoped that one or other of these may IfiG BANFFSHIRE. yet be more frequently afforded than present circumstances per- mit. The effects of hard labour, and under^feeding, become very perceptible on the approach of age. In so far as moral delinquency can be traced from our earliest records, commencing in 1718, it appears that, more than a hundred years ago, when the population of the parish was much less than it is at present, crime of every description was more generally preva- lent. Notwithstanding the severe discipline which the church then rigorously enforced, the number of illegitimate births was as great as at the present day, and hot unfrequently attended with circum- stances of a revolting and aggravated description, which are now unheard of in the parish. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Extent of different kinds of land. * Number of acres ofcultiyated land} standard imperisl measure, 6955 wa&te or pasture land, . . 3428 under wood, . . 750 Total extent of the parish, . U 133 Number of acres improveable waste land, . J 597 waste land, chiefly fitted for planting, . 1831 improved within the last forty years, 2305 There are no undivided commons in the parish, but on the moss of Banff, extending to about 180 acres, about one-half of which is in Alvah, the Earl of Seafield and the Earl of Fife (for a few farms on his estates) have a servitude of firing ; but the ^* bottom'' or under strata belongs in property to the Forglen estates, and be- ing on the sandy clay, of a good quality, the ground is brought into cultivation as the moss is exhausted. The valued rent of the parish is L. 3304, 13s. 4d. Scotch, and the real rental about L. 4065 Sterling. The average rent of arable land is 13s. per imperial acre, or 16s. 5d« per Scotch acre, but, taking into account surplus rents paid by subtenants, the ave- rage rent paid for land is 14s« dd. per imperial acre, or 18s. per Scotch acre. Until about the year 1754, when the late Earl of Findlater in- troduced the improved system of husbandry, the agriculture of this * Tlie extent of laud improved within forty years, the extent in different kinds of crop, the quantity of grain produced, and the amount of livestock, have been ob. talned from returns made by all the farmers in the parish, who both kindly iiirnisb- ed the information in question, and studied to render it as accurate as possible. One of the estates has been recently surveyed ; but of other four the surveys are of older date, and the survey of the remaining one has not yet been completed { so that in our statements of the total extent of the parish, the extent of waste land, &c. ex- treme accuracy cannot be warranted, although we have reason to think that our statements are pretty nearly correct. a ALVAH. 167 t part of the country was of the most wretched description, and in this parish no improvement of any consequence seems to have taken place until about twenty years after ;* but since that time, im-^ provement has been rapid and steadily progressive, and the agri« culture of the parish may now be said to be conducted on the most approved principles. Rotation^ 8f€. — A regular rotation of cropping, suited to the na- ture of the soil, has long been universally adopted. The most common rotations are what are called the five, six, and seven shift courses — the last-mentioned being that which is, at present, most generally followed. Great and increasing attention is also paid to the preparation of the soil by superior ploughing and cleaning, and judicious application of manure. Lime has long been extensively employed, and, excepting a few cases in which it has been injudi- ciously applied, it has always been attended with the best effects. Several years ago, no fewer than eighty barrels or forty bolls per Scotch acre were laid on the haughs of Sandlaw, at an expense of L. 10 per acre, exclusive of carriage. In consequence of this, the produce was doubled — the fields yielding upwards of seven quar- ters of wheat, followed next season by 300 stones of hay per Scotch acre. This, however, is an extreme case, arising from the depth and nature of the soil. The greater part of the inferior land of the parish can scarcely receive twenty-five barrels per Scotch acre, without sustaining an injury which the farmers as yet know not how to repair. Within the last four or five years, bone-dust has been introduced as a manure, and with a degree of success which has not yet been satisfactorily explained. We cannot as yet say with certainty which of the ingredients of this manure consti* tntes the food of plants ; for although bones boiled and crushed have been found to afford as good a manure as those in a raw state, and although this circumstance would seem to strengthen the opinion, that it is not the oily matter in the bones that consti- tutes the manure, yet the fact, that bones so boiled and crushed render the soil apparently as rich with oil as bones in a raw states forbids us from asserting positively that the phosphate of lime alone constitutes the food of plants in the manure in question. * The state of agriculture in this parish at the period in question, is incidentally noUeed in Souter*8 ^* General View of the Agriculture of the County of Banff, drawn up ID 1812, for the consideration of the Board of Agriculture/' In the same work may also be found descriptions and engravings of a turnip-sowing machine and horse- hoe, the ingenious inventions of the late Mr John Cowie, farmer at Sandlaw, and the first implemenU of the kind introduced into this part of the country. 168 BANFFSHIRE. But, whatever may be the chemical action of bone-dust, it has here been experimentally and satisfactorily proved that this manure can impart no richness to any kind of soil, unless naturally dry or tho- roughly drained* To the soil of this parish, generally, it is well adapted, and has accordingly been almost universally used, al- though its application has hitherto been exclusively con6ned to the turnip crops. The quantity here employed varies from twenty- five to thirty bushels per Scotch acre, at a price which has varied from 2s. 4d to Ss. 8d. per bushel ; but even a much smaller quan« tity has sometimes been applied with surprising effect. The best practical farmers are of opinion that thirty bushels of bone-dust, in good fresh land, not exhausted by over^cropping, will produce as good turnips, and stand out the rotation as well as if twenty-five cubic yards and upwards of farm-yard dung had been applied. Crops raised^'^Some years ago, wheat was raised in considera- ble quantities, but, since the fall in price, this crop has been al- most entirely discontinued. Bear and barley are also at present raised to a very limited extent Bear seems the more suitable of the two to our soil and climate, ripening earlier, and affording a better quality of grain. Chevalier-barley has been tried, but is fast wearing out of repute. Except in very favourable seasons, it is found too late for our climate. Various kinds of oats are sown, according to the nature of the different soils, such as potato, Hopeton, birly, sandy oats, &c. The potato oats are mostly confined to the deep loams. The Hopeton are getting thicker in the husks upon being re-sown. The birly and sandy oats are excellent kinds, and well adapted to our soil and climate, and, as they are little known in the southern counties, their quality may be stated in comparison with the old common oats. They are from eight to ten days earlier, produce more straw, and yield four per cent, of more meal. Their average weight in 1836 was 42 lbs. per bushel. Good sandy oats bring the same price as potato oats. They are also as early, and have a great advantage over them, in producing a much greater quantity of straw, in being less liable to shake, and not apt to give way at the roots. Pease and beans, though once common, are now scarcely sown in the parish. The average number of imperial acres in yearly grain crop is 2846, and the average produce is 9792 imperial quarters, — being an average produce, per imperial acre, of nearly 3 quarters 4 bushels, or per Scotch acre, of nearly 4 quarters 3 bushels. Ten of the best farms on and near the banks of the Doveran produce, on an ave- ALVAH. 169 rage, 5 quarters 6 bushels per Scotch acre, while some of the best fields, in the same district, have been known to yield occa- sionally 12 quarters per Scotch acre. Planting. — The extent planted is 750 acres. In regard to management, although our system appears generally proper, yet, if more attention were paid to pruning and thinning, especially at an early age, it is believed that the trees would be more healthy, and of much larger growth. Several young and thriv- ing plantations of larch might be pointed out, in which it is necessary to cut down at least one-fourth of the trees immediate- ly, in order to preserve them in a healthy state. Young trees are also too frequently suffered to be overpowered by the growth of whins ; and in some stations of considerable extent, where the whins have been eradicated, with a view to remedy the evil, the the second plantation of trees has been completely destroyed by the rabbits, with which our woods are infested.* Waste Ijond Improved. — 2278 imperial acres have been im« proved within the last forty years. By far the greater part of this extent has been reclaimed from thin land previously overgrown with fiirze and heath. This sort of improvement on large farms would seem, in some cases, to have been over-extended, as a con- siderable part has either again been allowed to run into its natu- ral state, or has now been planted. The most valuable impr6ve- ments, however, have been effected by means of draining and ditch- ing marshy ground, and so far have these been ciirried, that com- paratively little now remains to be done in this way. The usual mode of reclaiming waste land of a certain description, is to trench, or trench plough the ground in autumn, allow it to lie in that state during winter, and generally all the following year, and in the second spring to crop it with oats (in which case, turnips fol- low the next year) or prepare it for green crop. The mossy lands (once of very considerable extent) are improved by drying and burning. The water is drawn off by open ditches and drains. The upper part of the moss, when dry, is burnt, and spread for ma- nure, and lime is applied for raising artificial grass. When the season is dry and early, this mode of culture produces Qne crops of oats. Waste Lands still unimproved. — In the parish, there are 3428 imperial acres still unimproved. Planting is, no doubt, the only * The Earl of Fife has of late years planted thorn hedges, to the extent of nearly eight miles within the parish. 170 BANFFSHIRE. kind of improvement of which the greater part of the waste land is susceptible ; and, accordingly, we are enabled to state, that, on the western district, the property of Lady Abercromby, 306 im- perial acres are to be enclosed and planted immediately, with mix- ed wood, but chiefly with larch, for which both the soil and climate appear most favourable. It is believed that plantations of consi- derable extent are also contetnplaled by some of the other pro- prietors.* After all, however, a great extent will still remain to be improved. In the district mentioned above,. 664 imperial acres have been conditioned to be improved, in leases of nineteen years, lately granted. When all the improvements, both those in pro- gress, as well as those contemplated by the proprietor, (viz. straightening the marches, dividing the land into farms of conve- nient size, improving and planting the wastes, and draining and enclosing the cultivated land), have been completed, this once (and still comparatively) dreary district will assume a highly improved appearance. Similar improvements on the other estates will no doubt follow in course, at least in so far as they are practicable and necessary. Whilst speaking of waste lands, it occurs to the wri- ter, that this species of property might be very advantageously im- proved by letting, at least a considerable part of it, in small tene- ments or crofts. Besides the necessity which exists for supplying our surplus population with places of abode and the means of sup- port, there are many parts of the parish of Alvah of a soil so poor and unequal, that no other method seems so well calculated to improve it. Large farms on such a soil are entirely out of the question. Indeed, it is doubtful, if improving a great extent of waste land on one farm, under any circumstances, be a safe specu- lation to the improver, or of practical utility in any respect. That it has fallen far short, often, of all reasonable expectation, there can be no doubt. But the improvement of waste lands by small tenements is of a more permanent and useful nature ; and, though at first it may not be done to any great degree of perfection, its progress is gradual and sure. A crofter once set down on the poorest land, or land altogether waste, seldom or never fails to make an independent livelihood, and to bring up his family, and give them such an education as fits them for becoming useful mem- bers of society. Mechanics that are wanted for the district, such as tailors, shoemakers, masons, wrights, blacksmiths, &c. are all * Since this report wm transmitl<;d, Mr Morison has planted nearly 400 acres on his estate of Montblairy. ALVAH. 171 sure to thrive on such possessions. Hand-loom weavers from ma* nufacturin^ towns might also be tried, and if they succeeded, il would be a valuable experiment. The expense of carriage is the only obstacle, but with our present facilities of conveyance^ that expense could not be great. In letting waste land, in the man* ner suggested, the appearance of the country would be greatly im<« proved, and the comfort of the crofters, at the same time, in-* creased, if they were bound to build their houses after some uni- form and regular plan, to thatch and harl them when necessaryi and to attend to such other cheap and tasteful improvements as their landlords might suggest. Breeds of Cuttle, — The breed of cattle in the parish seems to be the same with, or at least very little different from, the Aber- deenshire breed. The only remarkable alteration that has taken place, for some years back, is the great increase of hummel cattle compared with the number of horned. By the graziers and best judges, this alteration is considered an improvement About twenty years ago, a different opinion prevailed, and a good show of horns was a point much valued. As to systematic breeding in the way practised in the south, very little has been done in the parish, except that, in choosing bulls and cows, the best and hand- somest in the stock are generally selected and reared* The good or bad qualities of the former, however, are not always so much attended to as they ought. If the animal is once reared, he id seldom rejected, however indifferent his qualities may be. Most of the farmers consider systematic breeding as a scheme of too distant and uncertain remuneration, and, leaving this part of their economy to persons of larger means, they are content to avail themselves of the advantages resulting from the experience of others. But although the farmers here are not much given to expensive experiments, yet so greatly do they proKt by the expe« rience of others, that they cannot be said to be behind their neigh<« hours in skill and judgment in the management of their stock* The practice generally followed on farms of a moderate size is this: the stock consists of four sets, viz. cows, one year olds^ two year olds, and three year olds, of each nearly an equal num«« b^r. The three year olds are sold off in the spring, or before Whitsunday (generally fat), by which time the calves are ready to take their place, so that about the same number is always kept up. Some sell off their three year olds before winter, and substi- tute four year olds in their room. Others speculate a little on 172 BANFFSUIllE. grazing. The fat cattle (three year old) on the best farms^ will weigh on an average 35 stones Dutch, but over the parish little more than 30 stones ; four year olds will weigh from 45 to 50 stones ; while a few older cattle are sold annually, weighing 70 stones and upwards. If there be any thing reprehensible in our practice, it is that of overstocking and paying too little attention to the nourishment of calves, and the qualities of bulls. The propriety of introducing what is called the short-homed, or Teeswater breed, is at present a much agitated question. The experiment has been made, with peculiar propriety, by some of the heritors in this and the neighbouring parishes, but few, if any, of the farmers here have yet followed the example, and probably will not do so, until they are satisfied as to the favourable nature of the result, and can make the experiment at less expense. The prevailing opinion is, that, in crossing the short-horned with the native breed, the race will degenerate, and at last leave in the country a race retaining all the bad qualities of both, with few of the good, and thus destroying the purity of both. In Aberdeen- shire, where the experiment has been longer tried, it has been found that upon good and sheltered land, especially if enclosed, one cross betwixt the Teeswater bull and the Aberdeenshire cow answers extremely well, coming to a greater weight and earlier maturity than the native breed ; but upon inferior land and open field, it is generally thought they never can supplant the native race. Their flesh cannot at all compete with prime Scotch in the London market, and the Aberdeen butchers consider them, even when crosses, as very inferior, and in fact would never wish to see them on their stalls.*^ Horses, — For twenty years back, a considerable number of our best horses have been brought from the south ; but this practice is now generally abandoned, and in some cases the trade has been reversed — a circumstance affording pretty strong proof of the im- provement of the breed. The original breed of horses in the pa- rish was peculiarly hardy and durable, but not equal to the pre- sent in point of bone and symmetry. The agricultural societies in the neighbourhood have, for a good many years, been giving premiums annually for the best horses, which have generally been gained by horses from the south ; and, as our horses are usually descended from these itinerant prize-winners, the old breed of the * Since this report was drawn up, the short-horned breed has been introduced to a considerable extent on several of the best farms in the parish. ALYAH* 173 parish is in a great measure extinct. This change is by some con- sidered to have been carried too far, as having a tendency to pro- duce a race of horses of a size disproportioned to the work. The price of a good horse at present will vary according to his quality from L.15 to L.d5. Sheep* — Owing to the extensive improvement of waste and pas- ture land, comparatively few sheep are now reared in the parish. At present no attention seems to be paid to the breed, one flock fre- quently consisting of half a dozen diflerent kinds. The flock at Sandlaw of the pure Leicester breed, famed for their size and the fineness of their wool, is perhaps the only exception. Besides the small number (679) at present reared in the parish, it may be not- ed that, for the last five or six years, large flocks from the High- lands come here for winter pasture, on the approach of snow on their native hills. The number thus pasturing at present is 3700 of the Highland, Strathdown, and Lanark breeds. The total amount received for the winter's pasture does not exceed L.dO. Live-stock. — From an accurate survey made in December last, we are enabled to state the average number of the different kinds of live-stock as follows: 241 work horses; 101 other horses of every age and description ; 22 work-oxen ; 558 cows ; — 541 one year olds; — 401 two year olds; — ^271 three year olds; — 76 four year olds; 679 sheep; 191 swine; and 1 goat.* The following table exhibits nearly the annual amount received from sales of live-stock now generally shipped at Banff for the London market : 271 three year olds, average weight 90 stone Dutch, at 68. 76 four year olds, do. 40 do. at 7s. 8 older cattle, do. 60 do. at 78. ISO two year olds, valued at L.4 a head, 226 sheep, valued at L. 1 a head, 191 swine, valued at L.1 a head, A few sales of other cattle and horses, about L.4906 It ought perhaps to be noted, that, within the last forty years, great improvement has taken place in all kinds of handicraft, our masons, wrights, smiths, shoemakers, &c being generally very su- perior workmen. Leases^ ($-c — These extend here to nineteen years. Although farm-buildings are more substantial and comfortable than they were forty years ago, there is still ample room for improvement. * Mr Morrison of Montblairy has of late years introduced a very large flock of sheep of the most approved English breeds. L.24a9 1064 168 520 226 101 soo L. 10207 1400 968 3707 935 2500 80 40 174 BANFFSHIRE. Inchsures. — Although something in this way is done annually, yet this species of improvement may yet be said to be in its in* fancy. Produce, — Average gross amount of raw produce. * 8812 quarters oaU, at L.1, 3s. 2d. 980 do. bear, at L.1, 8s. 7d. 121 Scotch acres, potatoes, at L.8, • - 674 do. turnips, at L.5, 10s. 374 imperial acres hay, 100 stone per acre, at 6d. 2500 do. pasture, at L.1, Winter pasture for 3700 sheep, Fishings on the Doveran, about Total gross amount of rav produce, - L.1 9837 Distillery, — About twelve years ago, a distillery was erected on the estate of Montblairy, which is still in full and active operation. The extensive premises connected with this work are most com* plete and convenient, and being situated on an airy and romantic ridge of rock, and abundantly supplied with the purest water, the whisky produced is of Grst rate excellence, and greatly celebrated for its genuine flavour. This distillery was erected at an expense of L.4000, is capable of distilling 40,000 gallons annually, and in size ranks among the largest north of the Tay. Mr Alexander Scott is proprietor of the works. V. — PAROCHlikL £cONOMY. Means of Communication^ Sfc. — There are no villages or mar- kets within the parish. Banff, at the distance of two miles from the northern extremity, is the nearest market-town. The post- offices at Banff, Abercherder, and Turriff, lie at nearly equal dis- tances from the extreme points of the pari.sh. The turnpike road leading from Banff to Huntly extends within the parish to the dis- tance of four miles and a half, and the turnpike branching off from this at the Slacks of Tipperty, enters the parish of Forglen on the moors above Montblairy, at the distance of four miles. To these may be added one mile of new turnpike leading from Bur- reldales, in the direction of Forglen House, making in all an ex- tent of nine miles and a half of turnpike roads within the parish. * The rates at which the grain is calculated in this table, is the average of Banff- shire fiar prices, for common oats with fodder, and for best bear 182 BANFFSlllUE. the wilds of the Grampiau hills. From the appearance of this limestone, there is some reason to believe, that were it quarried to sufficient depth, it might be of value, and used as a marble. The most interesting rock, however, on this side, is a beautiful dis^^ play of graphic granite, so called from its exhibiting when polish- ed, characters in n>any respects resembling those of the Hebrew alphabet. It lies half way between Portsoy and the mouth of the Boyne ; and, next to the serpentine, has made this place so well known to the geologist. No one having the opportunity should neglect to visit this rare and interesting rock. Imbedded in it are found in some places large crystals of schorl, and also mica in firm radiating masses. Throughout the interior of the parish, there is but little oppor* tunity for minute geology ; there being an almost universal and thick covering of alluvium to obscure the subjacent rocks. Care- ful examination, however, shows that the most of the interior is composed of those variations of trap, which are comprehended un- der the names of common greenstone, syenitic greenstone, hyper- sthenic greenstone, and augitic greenstone. Quartz rock forms the round-backed eminence of the Durn hill. It is distinctly stra- tified, and is inclined at a high angle. Boulders of syenite, of con- siderable size, are to be found aroun^ the foot of the Durn and Knock hills, and in some other parts of the parish. The soil is parily a strong clay, partly a clay loam, and partly a light loam ; and generally highly productive along the sea-coast, but cold and wet towards the south. Zoology, — This parish is not distinguished, at present, by any of the rarer species of animals. Its general breed of cattle is a cross between the old Banffshire and the Buchan humble breed. The pure Banffshire is now seldom to be seen.* The sheep are of the Cheviot breeds with a few of the small black-ifaced. * In 1770 a remarkable murrain broke out amongst black-cattle in this parish, to which it may not be uninteresting here to refer. It is still remembered by some of the oldest inba'uitants, and is s^Miken of as ** the Plague." It is said to have been im- ported into Portsoy, by means of some tainted hay brought over in a vessel from Holland, (vhere it was raging at the time,) and given as food to the cattle here. It produced great excitement in the place, and soon attracted the attention of the go- Teroment, who, to prevent the contagion from spreading, sent down orders to have all the black-cattle, within a oeitain distance, immediately slaughtered on their show- ing any symptoms of the disease. The owners, however, were indemnified by the- government, according to the value set upon their cattle by judges appointed for that Surpose. The place of slaughter is still pointed out ; and for a season, a party of soU iers was stationed at Portsoy to enforce a kind of quarantine in regard to all the cat- tle connected with it. The first appearance of the disease was heaviness, wateting of the eyes, and heat in the horiu» This was succeeded ty flui, vjucb soon termU nated in deaths FORDYCE. 183 There is not only an .abundant supply of all the common kinds of sea fish, but salmon is to be had regularly in its season ; there being a bag-net station for this fishing near the mouth of the burn of Boyne. At a former period, lobster- fishing was carried on to a considerable extent, by the fishermen here, as well as along the whole of this side of the Frith to Inverness ; and small vessels visited the different stations on the coast, received the fish that were caught, and then proceeded with them to the London mar- ket. But nothing has now, for many years, been done in this re- spect, beyond a few being caught by aged fishermen, who dispose of them in the place. Crabs are found in considerable numbers ; and it may be stated that, during the winter of 1838, when provi. sions were so high, the children of several of the poorer families derived an important part of their aliment from the common peri- winkle, which is to be found so plenteously on our shores. Botany. — One of the features of the parish most likely to strike the eye of a traveller is the want of wood. This defect, however, is in the way of being remedied. In the east part, the Earl of Seafield has a young thriving plantation o( considerable extent ; while a large space of waste land, contiguous to it, and lying be- tween the burn of Boyne and the Huntty turnpike, has been en- closed and planted during the past year. The other proprietors have been adding to the ornament of the parish, and the improve- ment of their own properties in like manner. II. — Civil History. There are no written records of the early history of this parish. It would seem, at least, to have been sufficiently large, compre- hending originally Ordiquhill, Deskford, and CuUen. When the disjunction of these took place cannot be positively ascertained. From a decreet of stipend for Fordyce in 1618, it appears to have been subsequent to that period. Land'Owner^ — There are three landed proprietors, the Earl of Seafield ; Sir Robert Abercromby of Birkenbog ; and Arthur Duff Abercromby, Esq. of Giassaugh, — the last of whom only is resident in the parish. There are plans of the different estates in the hands of their respective proprietors. Those of the Earl of Seafield are of the oldest date, some of them not having been re- newed since 1771. The last plan of the Giassaugh estate was made out in 1821 ; while a new survey of Birkenbog was complet- ed only two or three years ago. Eminent Men. — Walter Ogilvieof Redhyth and Mr George Smithy 186 BANFFSHIRE. to whom the cause of education here has been so much indebted, were both natives of this parish. The former, in 1678^ be- queathed the lands of Redhyth and Meikle and Little Bogton, all within the parish, to establish bursaries at the parochial school, and at King's College, Aberdeen. They are called, from their founder, *^ the Ogilvie or Redhyth Bursaries." The number of bursara at the school is now, from 12 originally, raised to 17; the annual value of each bursary being 8^ bolls of meal, L.1, 16s. 8d. in money, and L.1 for school-fees to the teacher. The term of the bursarv is five years. The number at King^s College, from 8 originally, is now also 17; and the annual value of each bursary is L. 17 Ster- ling. * Mr George Smith, who was born in the village of For- dyce, having realized a considerable fortune abroad, bequeathed the greater part of it for the purposes of education in his native parish. He died on his way home from the East Indies in the end of last century. The establishment on his foundation com- menced in 1801. There are at present nine bursars, each of them receiving L.25 a year for board, clothing, and education. They are all boarded with the teacher, who receives from the same fund L. 40 of annual salary, besides having had provided for him an ex- cellent house and garden. The parochial Schoolmaster has hi- therto held the situation of teacher to ** Smith's Bursars ;" but the magistrates of Banff, who are the patrons and trustees of the establishment, have it in their power to appoint one distinct from this. The term of these bursaries is likewise five years. In ad- dition to the above bequest, Mr Smith left L. 25 a year to the pa- rish minister, for taking a superintendence of the youth placed upon the endowment ; and also L. 1000 to aid in erecting an infirmary or hospital, either in Banff or Fordvce. The Rev. James Stuart, late rector of George town and All-Saints, South Carolina, left, besides other legacies for the advancement of education, L. 1200, to endow one bursary at the'scl^^ol of Fordyce, and another at that of Banff, to be enjoyed by boys of the name of Stuart. These bursaries commenced in 1810, and the pres- bytery of Fordyce presents to them. There are also other two small bursaries, amounting together to about L. 9, founded by the late James Murray in Butterytack, and to which the kirk-session of Fordyce presents. In consequence of the distinguished advantages thus posses- sed in regard to education, many who received the elements of * The Earl of Seafield is patron of them all. FORDYCE. 185 their instruction in this parish, have afterwards acquitted them* selves in a most creditable manner in the world, or are, at this moment, honourably filling stations of an important kind. Sir James Clark, presently Physician to Her Majesty, and Dr John Forbes, chief editor of the British and Foreign Medical Review, &c«, and now Physician Extraordinary to his Royal Highness Prince Albert, were both educated at the parochial school. Parochial Registers. — The registers of discipline have been re* gularly kept since 1658, and of baptisms since 1665. The mar- riage register does not commence till 1723, since which time it appears to have been regular. The following notice of the ministers of Fordyce, since the Reformation, is taken from one of these registers : — Mr Gilbert Gairdn, it is said, *^ seldom went to the pulpit without his sword, for fear of the Papists." Mr Patrick Darg was minister for sixty-three years. David Abercromby, de- posed for drinking. William Blair, admitted in 1675, and trans- ported to Aberdeen in 1680. James Stuart came from Invera^ ven in May 1681, and died in three years. Alexander Gallie came from Deskford in 1684, and died in 1715. Alexander Ir- vine came from Cullen in 1716, and died in 1746. James Law^^ tie, ordained August 1747, and died August 24th 1791. Alex-* ander Humphrey, ordained March 8th 1792, and died February 13th 1832. John Innes, present incumbent, admitted from Or- diquhill September 6, 1832. The following is a list of the Presbyterian ministers in Portsoy from its first erection into a preaching station in 1741 : — viz. Mr John Yule, Mr James Ogilvie, Mr Thomas Mitchel, Mr Robert Ogilvie, Mr Burnet, Mr Thomas Steel, Mr Walter Chalmers, Mr Abercromby Gordon, Mr James Kelly, Mr William Grants Mr Daniel Cruickshank, and Mr Alexander Reid, the present in- cumbent, who was admitted June 18, 1829. Antiquities.— The remains of the encampment on the hill of Durn are still visible ; it would appear to have been originally of considerable extent ; and is most probably to be referred to the time of the Danish invasions. There are other relics which seem plainly to show that this parish had been the scene of repeated hostile feuds ; some of them perhaps arising from the incursion of foreign enemies, and others from the not more welcome visits of Highland freebooters, descending on the richer plains. In addi- tion to what is stated in proof of this in the former Statistical 186 BANFFSHIUE. Account) it may be mentioned that a tumulus was opened at Auchmore in 1828, in which was found an earthen urn, contain- ing ashes. The urn was placed in a kind of rude coffin, formed of stones laid together for that purpose. This and the large mound raised over it would seem to indicate, that it had been a person of distinction whose ashes had been deposited here. And there is reason to believe that they may have been those of some warlike cliief, who had fallen in an engagement, of which there is a tradition that it took place near to the spot. The above urn is now preserved in the museum at Banff. Within a mile of the same place, on the brae of Roseacre, in the immediate vicinity of Portsoy, no fewer than five urns have been found, containing ashes and bones. Two of them were dug up about the beginning of this century, and the other three only a few years ago, when that part of the field was being trenched over to improve its productiveness. They were all, however, broken by the workmen ; but the frag- ments, which are still preserved, show that they would have been about twelve inches in diameter, and of a proportional depth. And in September of last year, there was turned up by the plough, on the farm of Ley, another urn, containing some remains of a si- milar kind. It was found placed upon a stone with a cover on the top, but was also broken. It is now likewise in the Banff museum. The old Castle of Findlater is deserving of notice amongst the antiquities of this parish. It is the most interesting ruin within it. It stands on a peninsulated rock on the sea shore, and still evi- dences, that, in its day, it had been a place of considerable im- portance. Leslie, Bishop of Ross, describes it (although, from the tactics of modern warfare, we suspect that the description would not now hold true) as ^* castrum, loci natura ita muni- tum, ut inexpugnabile videatur." Its outer, or north wall, is so built as to correspond with the face of the rock ; and its windows, which appear to have been chiefly on that side, would thus look into the sea. The lower apartments, some of which are partly excavated out of the stolid rock, are strongly vaulted with stone arches ; and the south side of the building, which was the only- one exposed to danger, appears to have consisted of a large mass of dead wall, protected by a fosse and drawbridge. Beyond this, and at about the distance of 100 yards, there had been ano- ther fosse and rampart, as an outwork to defend the castle ; leav- ing an intermediate space large enough to exercise a considerable number of men. The stones of the buildings, which were in the FORDYCE. 187 south-west corner of this area, and were probably used as stables and storehouses, have now been almost entirely removed for agri- cultural purposes, on the adjoining farm. The dovecot, however, on the top of the hill, still stands in a tolerable state of preserva- tion, and continues to he used for its original purpose. Sir Walter Ogilvie got leave, in the i8th of James II., or a. d. 1455, to fortify his Castle of Findlater with a tower and fortalice, and all other necessaries for a place of strength. It would appear to have been regularly occupied till towards the end of the reign of James VL, when it became less necessary for our nobles to seek their safety wilhin the walls of their castles. Findlater, at that time in the possession of John Gordon, son of the Earl of Huntly, was one of the places which refused to receive Queen Mary on her royal visit to the north ; and a party of six score of soldiers, sent out by the Queen to force a surrender, were one night, while lying at Cullen, surprised by him, and all of them either disarmed or slain. It soon, however, returned into^the hands of its origi- nal possessors. There is an intefesting tradition prevalent in the district, connected with its ceasing to be a family residence. While the lady of the castle, it is said, was one day standing at an open window holding an infant son in her arms, the child sud- denly leapt from her hold, and, falling amidst the foamingwaves and rocks beneath, immediately perished. The associations connect- ed with this melancholy event were such as to make the place to be immediately after deserted. The district of Findlater, from which the castle takes its name, furnished the title of Earl of Findlater to a succession of noble proprietors. The title was first conferred on James, second Lord Ogilvie of Deskford in 1683, and continued to be enjoyed by the male heirs of his body till it became extinct in James seventh Earl, who died on the continent in 1811. The estates, together with the Seafield titles, then came into the pos- session of the present family through the line of a collateral female branch ; Lady Margaret, eldest daughter of James fifth Earl of Findlater, having married Sir Ludovic Grant of Grant,* grand- father of the present Earl. * May not the name Findlater be traced to a French derivation ? Fin-la-terre, '* the land's end,'* is an appellation that is at least descriptiye of its locality, bound* ed as it is by the sea, and projecting farthest into it on this part of the coast. This derivation is, moreover, borne out by the circumstance of Findlater, according to the earliest accounts that we have of it, having been first in the possession of a fami- ly of the name of Sinclair. Now Sinclair is none other than the French name St Clair (de sancto Claro) ; and Douglas in his Peerage tells us that a famUy of this name came over with ^'iUiam the Conqueror from Normandy into Britain, and that two" branches of that family settled in Scotland in the twelfth century. 188 BANFFSHIRE. Modem Buildings. — The present parish church of Fordyce was built in 1804, and of Portsoy in 1815. A new Roman Catholic Chapel was erected in 1829, and an Episcopalian one in the course of last year ; both within the town of Portsoy. The mansion- house of Glassaugh has also been lately much enlarged and im- proved, and now forms one of the neatest and most commodious residences in this part of the country. III. — Population. The population of this parish, as given by the census taken in 1755, was 3212; in 1782, it had risen to 3425; in 1801, it amounted only (if the census has been given correctly) to 2747 ; in 1821, it had again reached to 3245 ; and in 1831, it was 3364, of whom 1578 were males, and 1786 females. The population in the towns and villages in 1831 was 2023, and in the country district, 1341. The yearly average of births for the last seven years is 70 ; of marriages, 20. No register of deaths has hitherto been kept. The STerage number of peraoos under 15 jeani of age^ . 1231 between 15 and 70, . 1948 above 70, . 185 Population in 184), . 1722 There are only two families of independent fortune at present resident in the parish. All the proprietors have a rental far above the yearly value of L. 50. The number of fomilies in the parish, . . ; 701 Average number of children in each, . • . . 4^ Number of unmarried men, bachelors or widowers, upwards of 50 years of age, 77 women, including widows, upwards of 45 years of age, 191 There are 3 persons insane ; 2 occasionally so ; 3 fatuous and dumb ; 1 dumb ; and 1 deaf. With regard to the last mentioned person, it is worthy of notice, that though his hearing, which he had in his youth, is now quite gone, he can still hold a degree of converse with others, by marking the movements of their lips, and will understand most persons to a certain extent, provided they speak with deliberation, and allow him to look them in the face. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. The number of imperial acres in the parish, which are either cultivated or oc- casionally in tillage, ..... 9306 The number which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly waste or in pasture, . . • . . 5960 The number of the latter that might be profitably cultivated, 670 in a state of undivided common, .... 1500 under wood, . . ... )2d4 Total number of imperial acres, 18670 FORDYCE. • 189 Wood. — The general kinds of trees are, Scotch 6ry larch, and ash. With the exception, indeed, of a small thriving plantation of the last, in the vicinity of the old Castle of the Boyne, the Scotch fir and larch are by far the most predominant description. The plantations are duly cared for, and the young woods regular* ly thinned from time to time, as they require. These thinnings, however, do not realize much to the proprietor. Bent, Woffesy Sfc. — The average rent of arable land in the parish, per imperial acre, is 16s. dd. Grazing an ox or cow for the summer may cost from L. 2, 10s. to L. 3 ; and the keep for the winter, a like sum. Grazing a full-grown sheep for a year, 7s. 6d. The ordinary rate of a labourer's wages per day in summer, without victuals, is from Is. 6d. to Is. lOd., and in winter, from Is. to Is. 4d. ; a mason's from 2s. 6d. to Ss. ; a Wright's from 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; a slater's from 2s. to 2s. 6d., with a proportional rate for the winter. When victuals are afforded, sixpence is the usual deduction made from these rates. Male farm-servants (1st class) receive, exclusive of board, from L.6 to L. 7 in the half year ; 2d class, from L. 4 to L. 5 ; and female servants from L. 2 to L. 2, 5s. Flax raised in the parish for do* mestic use may be estimated at 5s. 3d. per stone imperial, and Cheviot wool at L, 1, Is. per do. Husbandry.'-^lLhe common breed of cattle has already been mentioned. Not a little has been done of late for its improvement by the premiums given for superior stock, both by the Banffshire Farmer Club, and the Highland Society. Since 1829 the short- horned or Teeswater bull has been introduced ; and the result has been a decided advantage, both as regards size and facility of fat- tening. With the view also of improving the breed of horses^ an enterprising farmer lately brought down several fine Clydesdale mares, both in symmetry and strength very superior to the ordi- nary class of the district. Nor are the improvements confined to this department of husbandry. Draining is carried on to a large extent, and with great activity. On one farm, which may be given as a specimen, there have been completed, since 1837, not less than 10,175 yards of open ditches, and 17,998 of drains, on the plan recommended by Mr Smith of Deanston, besides 1600 of march ditches, cut by the heritor. On some of the other farms the draining has been nearly to the same extent. The introduc- tion of bone manure has been productive of great benefit ; and it is now extensively used. Several new thrashing-mills have been 190 BANFFSHIRE. recently erected. The farm enclosures are but few ; nor can it be said that there is not much room for improvement in regard to the farm-buildings. All the later erections, however, have been much superior to those which preceded them. The general duration of leases is nineteen years ; and it is believed, that few tenants are more indulgently treated than those on the estates in this parish. Quarries. — There are three lime quarries ; one at the mouth of the burn of Boyne ; another on the Glassaugh estate, near to Sand« end ; and a third close by that village. The last has not been much wrought for some time. There are annually produced at the first about 13,000 barrels of lime, and at the second, about 7000. There is also a quarry of beautiful quartz on the north side of the hill of Durn, from which exports are made for the use of the potteries in England. It is considered to be peculiarly suit- able for this purpose, and to be much superior to the English quartz. Fisheries. — There are ten fishing-boats in Portsoy, and seven in Sandend, with four men to each boat When the fishermen go to a distance to the cod fishing or herring fishing, they use a lar- ger boat, with from five to seven men. Each crew of four men pays an annual rent to the proprietor of L. 4, 3s. 4d. ; for which he supplies them, if required, with a new boat every seventh year. They will realize on an average to every man, from L. 27 to L.30 annually ; but the amount will be more than this, if the herring- fishing has been very successful. Salmon-fishing by the bag-net, is also carried on at a station near to the mouth of the burn of Boyne. The rent to the proprietor for the part of the coast in this parish, is L. 12, 10s. The average number of salmon caught for last two years was 147, and of grilses, 410. Amount of Produce. — The average gross amount of raw pro- duce raised in the parish, as nearly as that can be ascertained, is as follows : — Produce of grain of all kinds, . . . L. 24955 of potatoes, turnips, &c. . . . 786*2 of hay and pasture grass, .... 5347 offisberjes, sea and salmon, . 2220* of quarries, ... . . . 1220 of flax and other miscellaneous produce, . 146 Total annual Talue of rav produce, 41,250 ilfaim/actones.— There is a small rope manufactory in Portsoy, * The calculation here made is for the number of boats only belonging to the parish, and does not include any extra boats during the herring fishing. PonoYCE. 191 adjoining to the premises which were formerly occupied in con- nection with a thread manufactory and bleachfield. There is al- so a small distillery ; and a bone, thrashing, and saw mill, driven by the same water wheel, has lately been erected in the centre of the town. The importing of flax for spinning, which used to be to a large extent, has now entirely ceased ; and a most important means of support to humble and industrious females has thus been withdrawn. Namgation. — There are eight yessels belonging to the port of Portsoy, the whole registered tonnage of which is 556 of new mea- sure. Scotch and English coals are the chief imports. The amount of the former for the year, from May 6, 1839, to May 6, 1840, was 3250 tons, including 200 discharged at Redhyth ; and of the latter, 3500 tons. From eight to ten foreign vessels, chiefly from different parts of the Baltic, annually visit this port, bringing with them bones, and taking cargoes of herrings in return. Besides the export of herrings, grain is also frequently shipped to a large amount. V. — Parochial Economy^ Marhet-Toumiy <$-c. — Portsoy is the chief market-town, at which a weekly market is held on Saturday, for the sale of the various articles of country produce. It was erected into a burgh of baro- ny by a charter granted by Queen Mary in 1550. Its population at present is much the same as in 1831, viz. 1525. The popula- tion of the village of Fordyce, which was also made a burgh of barony in 1499, and had its charter renewed in 1592 to Menzies of Dum, is 212; of the fishing village of Sandend,.203; and of New Mills, in the interior of the parish, 30. Besides the accom- modation of a regular post-ofiice in Portsoy, and of a daily coach running between Aberdeen and Elgin, the parish is now supplied with excellent roads, being intersected by these in every quarter. There are fourteen miles of regular turnpike leading to Banfi*, Cul- len, Keith, and Huntly. The bridges on the roads are substantial but the fences are but few. The pier around the new harbour of Portsoy, which was built by the proprietor, the Earl of Sea- field, at a large expense, in the years 1825-28^ and which form- ed one of the safest and most commodious on the coast, was first severely shaken on the north side, by the tremendous sea storm of 7th January 1889 ; and by another, on the 30th of the same month, was totally demolished. Not having been yet rebuilt, the BANFF. K 192 BANFFSHIRB. old harbour is the only one at present used for shipping ; though small it is very safe and convenient. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church of Fordyce is centrally situated as respects the whole quoad eivilia parish, and also its own ecclesiastical onei now only connected with it. The distance from it to tlie boundaries, varies from one and a*half to five miles. It was built in 1804, and is at present in a complete state.of repair. It will accommodate about 1100 sitters. The sittings, divided amongst the several heritors, are all free. It is not known when the manse was built, but it underwent a thorough repair in 1832. The glebe is only two acres and a half, and its value about L. 5. But there is a crofl of five acres called the vicar's croft, and which was mortified in 1595 for the use of the minister of Fordyce, which is still enjoyed by him. The stipend is sixteen chalders, exclusive of the bequest by Mr Smith already-mentioned. The former chapel of ease at Portsoy was erected in 1836 into a regular quoad sacra parish church. The new parish, compre- hending the town and a district of from one to two miles in cir- cuit, lies wholly within the old parish. The church accommo- dates nearly 700 sitters* The minister's stipend is paid from seat- rents, and an annual allowance of L. 40 by the Earl of Seafield. It is guaranteed to the amount of 100 guineas ; and has hitherto, to the present incumbent, been made somewhat more. The pay- ment of seat-rents, however, even though they be comparatively low, is felt to bear heavily on the labouring classes. All that an ordinary day-labourer can earn, (hardly averaging L. 18 annually,) is quite inadequate to enable him to pay for church accommodation, and the necessary education of his children, in addition to what is in- dispensably requisite to their comfortable maintenance. There is an Episcopalian Chapel, and also a Roman Catholic one in Portsoy. The Roman Catholic Bishop resides at Prcs- home, in the quoad sacra parish of Enzie. The number of Epis* copalians in the whole parish is 95; of Roman Catholics, 112; of Dissenters, 23^ leaving 3134 in connection with the Establish- ed Church, of whom 1450 are in the ecclesiastical parish of For- dyce, and 1684 in that of Portsoy. Divine service is well attend- ed at the two Established churches, unless in very unfavourable weather ; and this is also stated to be the case at the two chapels. The number of communicants in Fordyce and Portsoy, for the last few years, has va,ried from 480 to 500 to each. There is a parochi- al association for religious purposes in both parishes, the object of FORDYCE* 193 t which is to support the schemes of the General Assembly, and to provide, at the same time, for local wants, such as Sabbath school libraries, cheap Bibles, circulation of tracts, and the like. The average amount of annual contributions for these objects may be stated as being, for Fordyce, L.16, lOs., and for Portsoy, L.14, 10s. Education. — There are eleven schools in the whole quoad civi* lia parish, of which one is parochial ; one is supported by the So- ciety for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; five others have more or less aid given to them from vokintary liberality, and the rest are entirely dependent on the exertions of their teachers. Greek, Latin, English grammar, arithmetic, mathematics, and all the com- mon branches of education, are taught both at Fordyce and Port<- soy. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is L. 34, 4s. 4^d. and the annual amount of his school-fees, about L. 30. He has no dwelling-house from the heritors, nor any allowance in lieu of it, but he has a glebe of ten acres of land, mortified by Thomas . Menzies of Durn. The salary of the society's teacher in Portsoy is L. 15, with L. 5 additional from the Earl of Seafield, and the usual accommodation of a house and cow's grass* His schootfees average about L* 20. The same nobleman gives liberally to the support of an infant-school teacher, and female teacher, in Portsoy, and to three other teachers in different parts of the country dis- trict. The annual expense ofeducation at the parochial school varies from 10s. to L. 1, according to the branches required ; at the Society's school from 6s. to 14s. ; and at the grammar school of Portsoy, whioh is unendowed, from 12s. to L. 1, 10s. The children at the infant school j^ay each one penny per week. The fees for the common branches of female education are much the same as those paid at the other schools ; but a considerably higher charge is made for music, French, drawing, and the like. There are very few between the ages of six and fifteen, who can- not either read, or are not learning to read ; and few also who are not, at the same time, taught to write. Any persons above that age who are unable to read, and of whom likewise the number is very small, consists almost entirely of those who have come from the Highlands, and settled in the parish, after they had reached the years of maturity. The people in general are fully alive to the benefits of education ; and the means of attaining these are now amply provided, there being no part of the parish that is not within a comparatively short distance of a school. No additiona 194 BANFFSHIRE. school is needed ; but it were most desirable that the grammar- school in Portsoy were raised to the full status of a parochial one* By the extension of week-day schools, in conjunction with the Sab- bath schools, the latter of which are under the immediate charge of the ministers of the Established Church, and are regularly at- tended by upwards of 400 children, a marked and gratifying im- provement has been wrought, more especially upon the rising ge- neration. Literature^^^There are two subscription libraries in Portsoy, besides a Sabbath school one there, and another at Fordyce, the books of which are given gratuitously to the children. There is also a small select library, consisting chiefly of religious works, be- longing to the Episcopalian congregation. These have done much good, by diffusing a taste for reading among the parishioners. Savings Bank. — A receiving branch of the Banff Central Sa- vings Bank was established at Portsoy in 1837. Though it has not yet prospered to the extent that could be wished, it may be stated as a proof of its making progress, that within the last twelve months L. 145 have been deposited, while not more than L. 20 have been drawn. The depositors are chiefly of the work- ing classes ; and the whole amount of the deposits is now above L.dOO. Poor and Parochial /tmdt.— -There are two distinct manage- ments of the poor's funds,— one by the session of Fordyce, and the other by that of Portsoy ; each session maintaining the poor con- nected with its own district of the parish. ATeraga number of persons receiving parochial aid in Fordyce, 50 Portsoy, 70 Average allowance to each annually in Fordyce - L. J 1 Portsoy, • 10 Average amount of church collections in Fordyce, 34 Interest of money "and bequests, • - - 19 Averageamount of church collections in Portsoy, 59 Interest of money and bequests, - . . 14 Besides the above means of support to the poor, there are about 40 bolls of meal annually distributed amongst the more indigent ; and there^is a female benevolent society in Portsoy, which some- times expends in coal, clothing, &c. to the amount of L. 90. In both congregations, an extraordinary collection is made every year for the Aberdeen Infirmary, and for a pauper lunatic fund, esta- blished for the benefit of the different parishes in the presbytery, and under its immediate management. We regret to say, that, in- Head of their being, as formerly, a reluctance on the part of the FOnDYCE. 195 poor to seek parochial relief, the reverse is now too frequently the case. Fairs. — There is a fair (All- Hallow Fair) held anuually at Fordyce on the last Wednesday of October (old style) ; and an- other at the same place on the fourth Thursday of November (old style.) Both are for the sale of cattle and sheep ; and the first has also been long one of the chief feeing markets of the dis« trict. Inn$, — The number of alehouses and shops where ardent spirits are sold in Fordyce and Portsoy together, is no less than 24, The effect of licensing so many of these has been most injurious to the morals of the community ; and the facility with which such licenses have been hitherto obtained cannot be too deeply lamented. A Society on the principle of total abstinence, has been lately es- tablished in Portsoy, and its influence in lessening the prevalence of intemperance has already been very gratifying. Though as yet of little more than three months standing, it has reduced the consumption of ardent spirits to nearly one^third less than it had been in the former quarter. Such an influence needs only to be sufficiently extended, and made permanent, to drive intemperance speedily from the face of our land. FueL — The chief fuel is English coals ; but in the country dis- trict, a considerable quantity of peat is used, procured from the ▼icinity of the Knock Hill, and other adjacent places. The ex* pense of the latter, per load, may be estimated at t2s. while the or- dinary price of coals per barrel is Is. 3d. In the summer season the barrel may often be purchased at Is. Id. or Is. 2d. Miscellaneous Observations. The valuation of this parish in the year 1690, after deducting the public burdens, was L. 8274 Scots, or L. 689, 10s. of Sterling money. In last Statistical account, the land rent is stated to be nearly L. 4000. It is now about double of this sum, thus afford- ing the best of all proofs of the success with which agricultural im- provements have been carried on during the last forty or fifty years. It is also within the same period, that the excellent turnpikes and the other best roads have been made. An extension, howeyer, of the present system of draining, the raising of more fences, the in- troduction of a superior style in farm-buildings, and the planting of some of the waste parts, would still farther add to the present improved aspect of the parish ; and while the active spirit that is now showing itself gives promise of such meliorations in the 196 BANFFSHIRE* rural economy being rapidly extended, it is hoped that the con- tinued appliance of the means of intellectual and Christian instruc- tion will, under the Divine blessing, have a corresponding success^ and be instrumental in making the moral improvement of the pa- rishioners to keep pace with the advancements that are made in other respects. From the latter source only can flow the true and permanent happiness of individuals and communities ; and states- men would do well to keep in view, that all national prosperity will just be healthy and secure, in proportion as it is based on the cha- racter of a moral and religious people. February 1842. PARISH OF CABRACH. * PRESBYTERY OF ALFORD, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JAMES GORDON, MINISTER, I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The name is derived from words in the Gaelic lan- guage signifying the Timber Moss^ the parish being covered with moss and fir. Boundaries^ Extent^ Sf^e. — The medium length of the parish from south to north is 5 miles ; the breadth from east to west, 3 miles. It is bounded on the north, by the parish of Glass ; on the south, by Glenbucket ; on the east, by Kildrummy ; and on the west, by Mortlach and Inveraven. IL — Civil History Antiquities.-^There is a tradition that one of the Kings of Scot- land, Malcolm Canmore, had a residence in the parish, at a place called the ^< King's haugh," on the farm of Spenwell, and it is said there are still ruins of a castle to be seen there. I went in con- sequence to examine the spot, where I found ruins indeed, but such as had evidently been the abodes of later and humbler occupants, though the nature and quantity of materials might countenance the idea that they had been taken from the remains of some for- * From Notes furnished b^ the Rev. William Ronald, parochial schoolmaster of Cabrach. CABRACH. 197 mer buikling. The place is a small haugh, about three acres ia extent, bounded on the north by a steep and rocky bank, upwards of 100 feet in perpendicular height. At the upper part, the Blackwater enters by a narrow passage through a rock, and runs through a deep and rapid channel, having on the south a pre- cipitous bank of more than thirty feet, rising into a high and steep hill at the lower end. Altogether, if inaccessibility and conceal- ment had been the objects of choice, a securer den could scarce- ly have been selected. There is on the west side of the eminence into which the north bank rises, a deep excavation into the rock of from twenty to thirty paces in length. There are, also, some re- mains of a chapel and burial-ground on the north bank of the Do-» veran, near Lesmurdie. Parochial Registers, — The oldest register extant begins in 1711, and contains registrations of baptisms and marriages, accounts of collections for the poor, and distributions, intermixed with the mi- nutes of the kirk-session at intervals, till 1747; from which time, separate registers of baptisms, marriages, and matters relating to the poor's fiinds have been kept. The first is rather defective, owing to the negligence of parents ; the other two are full and com-* plete* Zra7i£f- 4000 Number of acres which never have been culiifated, and which remain constant- ]y waste or in pasture^ • - 800 Nearly the whole of the waste land might be cultivated, but capital would not be profitably applied to such a purpose. Number of acres in a state of undivided common, nearly - 10 Number of acres under wood, whether natural or planted, - 800 Average rent of land per acre, 15s. ; real rental of the parish, L.3000. The agriculture of the parish is in general conducted on the most approved principles, skilfully applied. V.^-Parochial Economt. Ecclesiastical State. — Number of families in the parish belong- ing to the Established Church, 90; number of Dissenting or Seced- ing families in the parish, 1 ; number of Episcopalian families in the parish, 8; number of Roman Catholic families in the pa- rish, 1 . Amount of stipend, L.220. Glebe, nearly six acres in ex- tent, and worth about L.10 per annum. The manse was built in 1787, and is now in good condition. Educatian. — Number of schools in the parish exclusive of Sab- bath schools, 1. Yearly amount of parochial schoolmaster's sa- lary, L.d4, 4s. 4id. Probable yearly amount of fees actually paid to parochial schoolmaster, L. 30. Probable amount of the other emoluments of parochial schoolmaster, L.5 nearly. Poor. — Average number of persons receiving parochial aid, 16. Average sum allotted to each, L.2, 10s. per annum. Average annual amount of contributions for relief of the poor, L.d5 ; from church collections, L.30 ; from alms or legacies, &c L.5. But there is also a periodical legacy of L. 20 from Burnet of Dens' mortification for the poor in the synod of Aberdeen. March 1842. PARISH OF GRANGE. PRESBYTERY OF STRATUBOGIE, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. WILLIAM DUFF, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — In the old Statistical Account of this parish, it is said that Grange takes its name from Grangiaj a middle-age term for a farm, or country residence. It is certain that this parish was the Grange or farm of the Abbots of Kinloss, to whom the greater part of it, if not all, was given by William, King of Scots, as may be learned by a charter of Strathisla to Kinloss, published in Shaw's History of Moray, without date, but with the names of wit- nesses attached. It is likely that this charter was granted by the King about the end of the twelfth century, or beginning of the thirteenth. The jolly monks had here a residence, built on the site where the church now stands, attracted, it is said, by the beauty of the situation. If it was beautiful in these days, it is much more beau- tiful now, having been, a few years ago, surrounded by trees and shrubs. The mount upon which their dwelling stood is situated upon the slope of a brae, which, in appearance, is mostly artificial. It overlooks the extensive haugha or holms on the rivulet Isla, beautified principally by the cultivation of its banks, — for the trees are yet few and far between, the few venerable ashes, elois, and planes that surrounded the farm-steadings, having been rooted out and sold. On the south of the Isla, there is a wide and long brush of larch and Scotch firs, now shooting up, and changing the scene a little, from the dull uniformity of unadorned hill and valley. Boundaries^ 4-c. — The parish is six miles long by five broad. It is bounded on the east, by the Knock, a hill, about 1600 feet above th^ level of the sea. This hill is cultivated a good way up, on all sides. The greater part of its surface is deep peat, and heather. ^On the top the moss is from eight to ten feet deep. In the dry year 1826, the surface was burnt round and round, hav- 214 BANFFSHIRE. ing caught fire, either by accident or design, nobody knows which* There is a very extensive view from it both of sea and land- Grange is bounded on the east, west, and south, by the parishes of Marnock, Rothiemay, Cairney, and Keith ; on the north, by that of Deskford and part of Fordyce. On the northern part there are two hills, the Lurghill and the hill of Altmore, now call- ed Aulmore, which signi&es the great burn. In the centre there is the Sillyearn, on which there is an extensive plantation, young and thriving. In the southern part there are the Mickle and little Balloch, the lower parts of which are now covered with wood. Towards the top there could be no hope of a tree, as it is dry, rough, and rocky. On the Mickle Balloch, there are several graves of some unhappy suicides, marked by a cairn, not sacred to their memory, but to tell of their unchristian burial and untimely end. Here is the Gallow-hill, too, of which tradition speaks with fear and trembling. On this memorable mount the criminals of the district met their ignominious fate. The abbots, as well as the feudal barons of those days, had the power to condemn with- out appeal, and, it is likely, to execute without justice. The Isla is a 6ne trouting stream. It takes its rise in Loch- park, on the estate of Admiral Duff, in the parish of Botriphnie, runs through Keith and Grange, and empties itself into the Do^ veron, in the parish of Rothiemay. There are few remarkable springs, unless two or three, that, even in the driest season, are ever flowing, and full. The best known is the Lady well, consecrated by some temperate abbot who indulged in the soft purity of the fountain. There is also the Croik, or the well of the cross, cold and pure, on the opposite side of the Isla; and a few others of less note. Botany, — The following may be considered as a pretty accurate list of the more common plants of the parish : Achillaea millefolium Alopecurus pratensis Bellis pereDois ptarroica geniculatus Blecbaum boreale JEgopodium podagraria Anemone nemorosa Brisa media Agrostemma Githago Anthoxanthum odoratum Bunium flexuomim Agrostis fttolonifera Apargia autumnalis Calluna Bulgaria vulgaris Arctium lappa Caltba palustris Airajcaspitosa Arenaria rubra Campanula rotundifolia flexuosa Artemiua vulgaris Capsella bursa pastoris caryopbyllea Arrbenatberura avenaceum Cardamlne pratensis praecox Aspidium F'ilix mas birsuta Ajuga reptans spinulosum Carices Aicbemilla vulgaris Atriplex patula Centaurea nigra arvensis A vena tatua cyan us Alnus glutinota Bartisa odontitis Cerastium visoosum OBANGE. 215 Juncus squarrosus Juniperus communis Lamium purpureum iacisum amplexicaule Lapsaoa communis Lathyrus pratensis Lemna minor Leootodon taraxacum Linum catharticum Lolium perenne Lotus corniculatus Luzula campestris sylvatica Lychnis Flos cuculi Lycopodium clavatum alpinum selago Lyoopsis arvensis Lysimachia nemorum Medicago lupulina Mentha arvensis hirsuta Menyanthes trifoliata Mercurialis perennis Jdontia fontana Myosotis palustris coispitosa arvensis versicolor Myrica gale Narthecium ossifragum Nasturtium officinale Orchis latifoiia maculata Orobus tuberosus Ozalis acetosella Papsver dubiura Pedicularis palustris Phalaris arundinacea Pinguicula vulgaris Pinus sylvestris (extinct) Plantago lanceolata major maritima Poa fiuitans trivialis pratensis annua Polygala vulgarii Polygonum aviculare Convolvulus amphibium Persicaria Potamogeton natans PotentiUa anserina Primula vulgaris Prunella vulgaris Pteris aquilina Pyrethrum inodorum Ranunculus aquaticus hederaoeus Cerastium semidecandrum vulgatum Qirysanthemum segetum Chrysosplenium oppositi* folium Cnicus lanceolatus palustris arvensis Conurum palustre Conium maculatum Corylus avellana Cynosurus cristatus Cytisus scoparius Dactylus glomerata Digitalis purpurea Draba verna Eleocbaris palustris Erapetrum nigrum Epilobium montanum palustre Equisetum arvense sylvaticum palustre Erica cinerea Tetralix Eriophorum angustifolium Ervum birsutum Euphorbia helioscopia Euphrasia officinalis Festuca ovina Fragaria vesca Fumaria capreoleta officinalis Galeopsis Tetrahit Galium verum sazatile Galium uliginosum palustre aparine Genista anglica Geranium Robertianum molle di§um Geum urban um Glechoroa hederacea Gnaphalium sylvaticum uliginosum dioicum Heracleum sphondylium Hieracium pilosella sylvaticum Hippuris vulgaris Holcua mollis lanatus Hypericum pulchrum perforatum Hypochsris radicata Iris pseudacorus Juncus efiusus conglomeratus acutiflorus uijginosus * The above list was drawn up on 2d October 1838, and, in consequence of the lateness of the season, it is probable that several of the rarer genera and species have been overlooked. Ranunculus Flammula acris repens Rephanus Raphaoistrum Rliinanthus Crista gall! Roe spinosissima tomentosa Rubus Idieus fruticosus Rumex crisp us acetosa acetosella Sagina procumbens Salix repens aurita Scabiosa succisa Scirpus palustris Scleranthus annuus Senecio vulgaris sylvaticus Jacobaea aquaticus Sherardia arvensis Sinapis arvensis Sisymbrium officinale Sonchus arvensis oleraceus Spergula arvensis Spirssa ulmaria Stachys sylvatica palustris Stellaria media graminea uliginosa Tanacetum vulgare Thymus serpyllum Tormentilla officinalis Trientalis Europiea Triiblium repens procumbens pratense fiUforme Triglochin palustre Tussilago fitrfara Ulex Europseus Urtica urens dioica Vaccinium myrtillus Valeriana officinalis Veronica serpylUfolia Beccabunga officinalis chamadrys hederifolia agrestis arvensis Vioia cracca angustifolia sepium Viola caniua tricolor. • 216 BANFFSHlllE. There is no doubt that Grange was anciently covered with wood. In the extensive peat mosses, are found imbedded roots and trunks of fir and oak, chiefly of fir, vast quantities of which are cast out in the preparation of fuel. There are now large tracts of young wood on Lord Fife's estates ; and perhaps from Gfty to sixty acres on the estate of Sir James Innes, Bart, of Edingight. This parish is now generally under cultivation— even the mossy and heathy hjll of Aulmore is rapidly creeping under the plough. This hill is studded far and wide with the cottages of the poor ; but much of the lower lands has been cultivated with industry and skill. There is a great extent of excellent soil in the parish ; much, however, which no tillage will ever make good. The clayey and hard till subsoils prevail much, and are much complained of. The climate, in general, and particularly on the Davoch of Grange, is healthy and bracing. 11. — Civil History. Grange was feued out into small lairdships, upon the appear- ance of the Reformation, by the then abbot of Kiuloss, and was thus put into the hands of a great number of small proprietors. In the course of years, the number diminished, as the wealth of some, and the wants of others, increased. It is said of Alexander DufT of Braco, Lord Fife's ancestor, one of the more cautious and eco- nomical of the feuars, that, as he was standing on the hillside at his residence of Braco, and seeing many of the laird's chimneys smoking around him, he remarked to a bystander, that he would make the smoke of these houses all go through one vent by and bye; and he nearly accomplished his purpose, as four fifths of the whole are now in the hands of his descendants. Edingight, how- ever, still remains in the hands of the family of the original feuar, and the remainder is in the possession of the Earl of Sea field. It is recorded that there were some battles fought in the parish between the Scots and the Danes, when the Danes landed at Cul- len, in the reign of Donald III. IIL — Population. I Amountof population in 1811, 1510 1821, 1482 18S], 1492 1841, . 1661 There is one resident family in the parish, that of Sir James Innes, Bart of Balveny and Edingight. The people are, in ge- neral, moral and exemplary, and attentive to their religious duties. GUANGE. 217 IV. — Industry. There is an extensive manufactory of lime in the parish, lime- stone being inexhaustible. A great proportion of the small farms have their-lime kilns, and in this way the lands have been most- ly limed. Bone-manure is now much used, and wo have conse- quently less fallow and more turnip. Bones seem to answer well with the soil ; they produce very fine turnip, and not worse grass* On the more extensive farms there are thrashing-mills, a great convenience to the farmer. They might still be more general, as they could be wrought in the localities, where there is no water, by the young oxen, without much deterioration. There is a bed of plumbago or black-lead at a place called Seg- giecrookj a rare mineral in the north. Harvest- labour has undergone a great change, shearing having now been nearly abolished, and the scythe generally used. Oats is the more general produce ; and the most prevalent kind at present is what is called sandy-oats. Early Angus and Kil- drummy are a good deal used. There are yearly a few fields of barley, and some patches of bear or bigg. There is no meadow hay ; it all consists of rye-grass, and white and red clover. The six-shift in cultivation is generally followed, that is, two years in grass, two in oats, one in green crop, and one in oats or barley, laid down with grass for hay. Farming is as well understood here, and the farms are in as high a state of cultivation as any in Mid- Lothian. • On the large farms of Braco, Floors, Berryleys, Muiryfold, Myrieton, Cantly, and others, there are as fine horses and cattle as in any part of the county. The farming utensils are of the best make and mould. The iron plough is used, and of the best principle. The smith and wright work are unrivalled. Our grain, and cattle, and pork, meet a ready market in London. Many fine cattle are here fed and shipped from the port at Banff for London yearly. This is an improvement which was not dreamed of, when the last Statistical Account was written. There is no village in the parish, but there is a clachan, called Nether-mills. There is a sub-post*ofBce, and only one public* house in the parish. There is a bridge over the Isla, which was *^ built by Alexan- der Christie J tenant in CarUly^for the glory ofGod^ and the good of the people of Grange^** as the inscription, which was graven upon a stone in the bridge, bore. The stone is now supposed to be 218 BANPFSHlttB in the bottom of the rivulet. It was erected by Mr Christie to render the church accessible to the people of Cantly. One hun- dred merks were lodged in the hands of the laird of Edingight, to be laid out in repairing the bridge. This sum, no doubt, has been long ago exhausted. The bridge was originally very narrow, hav- ing been only intended for people on foot To make it passable by carts, another of the same siz^ was added to it, in the year 1789, the patron allowing the vacant stipend of that year to go to that use* The two bridges, many years ago, threatened to separate ; but, on the appearance of a breach between them, they were im< mediately bound together by bolts of iron. V. — Parochial Economy. Grange was separated from Keith in 1618» of which it once formed a part. Both of these parishes are church lands. The pre- sent church was built in 1795, and contains 616 sittings, allowing eighteen inches for each sitter. It is not well situated for the bulk of the population, being within amile of one end of the parish. There is a Secession meeting at the other end, the oldest, it is said, in the north. There are, on an average, in the parish church, about 490 communicants, of which 155 are male heads of families ; in the Secession meeting, perhaps 90, made up of hearers from this and the surrounding parishes. Secession minister's sti))end is L. 70 yearly. The parochial manse and offices were built in 1814; the offices are small, but the manse is large and good ; the glebe is five acres of good land ; the stipend 14 J chalders^ Banffshire measure, half barley, half meal, with L. 8^ 6s. 8d. of communion elements. Lord Fife is patron. Educatiofu — The school and school-house are limited in extent. The salary is the maximum, viz. L.34, 4s. 4d. with a mortifica- tion of L. 1, 2s. yearly, and the interest of L. 100, bequeathed by the late Mr Bruce, minister of Dunbar. The master has the benefit of the Dick Bequest. There is a school on the General Assembly's- scheme, with a salary of L. 25 yearly, and a cow's keep gratis, for the benefit of which the people pay a rent, subscribed by the tenants in small sums, to Sir James Innes, the proprietor, who refuses to sup- ply the croft gratis. The school and school-house were built by subscription in the year 1827, by the exertions of the present minister. This seminary is of infinite importance in this part of Grange, which would be otherwise entirely desti- tute of the means of education. There are also two other schools « GRANGE. 219 on masters' own adventure, so that now every opportunity of education is offered to all parts of the parish. The people esti- mate, according to its true value, the instruction of their families. Poor. — The poor, supplied from the funds, receive quarterly each about 5s. or 4s. 6d. This is a very inadequate supply ; but they receive much both in food and kindness from their more for-- tunate neighbours. The farmers are very charitable. Miscellaneous OBSEnvATioNS. This parish is much changed since the last Statistical Account was written, having now very good roads and bridges, all kept in thorough repair. There are several very large farms, beautifully and substantially enclosed with limestone dikes, and well-kept hedge- rows* The trees and plantations are now numerous and varied, and there are many richly cultivated fields, and even farms that were at that time heather and morass. On the farms of Haughs and Mains of Grange, there is a most substantial embankment, a mile long, on the Isla, erected at the expense of the heritor. On the farms of Cantly, Clerkseat, Little Clerkseat, and Auchinhove, the farmers have erected smaller embankments, at their own ex- pense, by which much fine land has been protected from the ca- lamities of flood and storm. In the year 1629, the flood on the Isla was terrific, and the calamity memorable. This parish has long been infested by cairds, tinkers, and stur- dy-beggars ; but it may be hoped that the evil will soon be remov- ed by the county police. An extensive embankment is about to be raised on the farm of Braco. March 1849. PARISH OF BOINDIE. PRESBTTBRir OF FORDYCB, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN, THE REV. A. ANDERSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — The ancient name of the parish was Inverboindie» /. e, the mouth of the Boindie : the old church, now in ruins, being si- tuated near the point at which the small stream of that name falls into the sea. Boindie seems to be merely a diminutive from Boyn^ the name of a larger stream forming the western boundary of the parish. The word Boyn, besides, anciently gave name to two feu- dal territories, one named the thanedom^ the other they^re^^ of Boyn. The thanedom included the chief part of this parish with certain parts of Fordyce and Banff. The forest of Boyn lay both to the east and west of the Forester's seat at Tarbriech, on the shank of the Binnhill near Cullen, comprehending a large district on the south and east of the parish of Fordyce, marching with the thanedom, besides Blairmand in this parish. The bum of Boyn thus appears to have traversed the centre of the district compre- hended in the two holdings of the thanedom and the forest of the BoyTU The word Bouin in Gaelic is understood to signify a stream, and thus with aa^ a ford^ gives name to the parish of Boyne^ at which there is a stream and a ford. Probably our name Boyn^ which, in the reign of Robert Bruce, was spelt Bouyn^ has the same origiu. Extent and Boundaries, — The figure of the parish is triangu- lar. On the south-east it extends about 5^ miles, and is bound- ed by the parishes of Marnoch, Banff, and the sea ; on the north, from 2 to 3 miles, and is bounded by the sea ; on the west, from 4 to 5 miles, and is bounded by the civil parish of Fordyce and by Ordiquhill. The burn of Boindie forms the march towards the south and east, except in reference to the lands of Baldavie, which cross the said water, southward ;* the burn of Boyn, towards For- * The hills of Boindie are here supposed to be in Banff, which is doubtful. BOINDIE. 221 dyce ; atkd a streamlet falling into the latter, towards Ordiquhill. By survey, the parish contains about 5000 acres, Scots measure. Topographical Appearances, — The surface of the parish is pure- ly of a lowland character, rather elevated, however, above the sea-level, except the fine agricultural valley through which the Boindie flows, which lies chiefly within the parish. The north- ern coast, bounded by the Moray Frith, is chiefly rocky, with a portion of sandy beach . At its eastern extremity, there is a point of land called the Knockhead, extending into a reef of rocks, vi- sible at half-tide, called the Salt Stones.* Here the coast turns towards the south and forms one side of a bay. The shore be- tween this point and the confluence of the Boindie with the sea^ extends less than a mile, and forms chiefly a beach of sand and gravel. Climate. — The climate in the lower part of the parish is dry and salubrious ; that of the upper district, although removed only a few miles, is, on the other hand, wet and cold.f We find the virulent influence of the easterly wind on the human frame less complained of here than in the country at the opening of the frith, and although more steady frost occurs than on the immediate coast of the Ger- man ocean, yet we experience sufiiciently the influence of the sea air to enjoy the most sensible superiority, in this respect, over the in- land districts to the south. The most prevalent winds are from north-west and south-east ; violent gales are generally from the for- mer point. From other causes than their greater violenceif, it is by north-west storms almost exclusively that great damage is done to the grain crops on the coast ; while their influence is attested by the * It is understood that the grey rat was first imported into this part of the coun- try from a ▼e^sel wrecked on this reef. Three or four of these ferocious creatures were found m the act of killing the sixth of a litter of young pigs ; the former five having been killed and devoured. 'Iliey are manifestly dangerous to young children, f The cattle in'this last district are very liable to the disease known here by the name of crcckles — in England called chine- fellon, which also occurs at one or two points in the lower part of the parish where the soil and climate are similar. Its more immediate cause seems to be the poverty of the pasture. This is inferred from the fact, that it has been wholly banished from a small farm in the lower district, where it used great- ly to prevail, since the tenant began regularly to fertilize his fields by an abundant supply offish manure. It is a remarkable, as it appears to be a well ascertained fact, that those farms on which it prevails in the upper part of this parish, and in the ad- joining district of Fordyce parish, have been peculiarly liable to this disease, only since the introduction of the sown grasses. Cattle affected with the disease are said to be cured by being made to pasture either in a marshy uncultivated situation, or in a fertile field. Thus the origin and the cure of the disease appear to illustrate the bad cflTects of the practice, perhaps imavoidable under an alternate system of husbandry, of cultivating the same grasses in aU varieties of soils and climates. t Probably the cause of this fact is to be found in the usual dryness of north-west storms, and their coming oflT the sea charged with salt spray unmixed with atmo- spheric moisture, which seldom happens in the case of north-east storms. It has been discovered that the blighted grain, if even partially filled, is quite available for seed. 222 BANFFSHIRE. unifomi bend of trees in exposed situations. The parish appears to be favoured in respect of the health and longevity of its inha- bitants.* There have died since 1832, one person above 100, and four or five above 90. There is now living a woman in her 100th year. A more decisive test is to be found in the proportion of persons above 70 years of age. The average over Scotland shews about one in 86 who have passed this age. Here the proportion is about one in 19.f Hydrography. — There are no remarkable springs in the parish except common chalybeate, to which description belongs a well at the eastern boundary, much frequented in summer by persons from the inland districts, with all ranks of whom it is very custom- ary to spend one or two weeks annually at the sea side. Soily jfc. — A portion of the soil, chiefly on the lands of Boindie and Dallachy, on the eastern part of the parish, is a black sandy mould, of a considerable depth, with an open subsoil, fertile and early. The soil of Reattie, Baldavie, and Raggal, in the middle of the parish, is chiefly clay and clay loam, part of it highly productive. But the larger part of the parish, including a pro- portion of the lands specified, is a rather light soil, incumbent on a close subsoil, and is of inferior productiveness. The direction of the strata is north by east. They have been subjected to disturbance of so violent and irregular a nature, that it is impossible to assign any particular direction to the dip. The prevailing rock in the eastern district is believed to be greywacke, which alternates frequently with a micaceous clay slate. Among these there occur frequent veins of quartz, the upheaving of which may be supposed to have acted as a disturbing force to the strata. To the west of the greywacke, hornblende rock, much of it assum- ing a slaty character, occupies the sea coast for upwards of a mile, and appears in various places upwards of a mile inland to the south. Numerous and large boulders of the same rock are found scatter- ed along the coast, and prevailing in a south and south-west direc« * It is worthy of being recorded that this parish, in oommon with a large part of the north-east coast of Smtland, was exempted from the scourge of cholera. During the first fortnight of the year 1837, however, we were subjected to an epidemic, which, if the number afftwted by it be taken into account, was only less serious than the Aaia- tic scourge. This was the influensa, which scarcely a single (kmily, and lew indivi* duals here escaped. It was attended by fever, pain in the bones, often violent aflTec- tion of the h««d, severe cough, and stifling, and great prostration of strength. Withia the short period^ mentioned above, eleven persons, most of them old or infirm, were cut off out of this limited population, and the constitutions of many received a shock by which their lives will have been shortened. f The proportion in the sea-lkring population is 1 in 19.5 ; in the agricultural do., 1 in 19.8; a striking proof of the operation of a law. BOINDIB. 223 tion inland for several miles. * To the west of the hornblende, limestone, apparently of primitive formation, prevails to the west- em boundary. Several veins of it occur in the greywacke, and were at one time extensively wrought for burning. Immediately beyond the western boundary, on the opposite side of the burn, it is still largely and successfully wrought for the same purpose. A imall granite vein, the only instance of this rock known in the parish, appears in the limestone, on both sides of the bum, at this point The limestone here is remarkable for the excessive con- tortions which its structure presents. A laige mass of diluvial clay forms the upper part of the Knock- bead to the east of Whitehills, and has long been wrought for the manufacture of bricks and tiles. Numerous small boulders are found in it containing petrifactions. Among these are Belemnites, Cornu ammonis, &c also occasional impressions of vegetables.! Fishm — The various kinds of fish common on the east coast, in- cluding the herring and salmon, frequent the Moray Frith opposite to this parish. The herring has visited our coast in rather decreased numbers for several years. Haddocks are generally found most abundant after a continuance of easterly winds. During several past seasons, they have appeared in unprecedented "numbers. There are found on the shores of this parish numerous stones bored and honeycombed in a singular manner4 In the holefi are found generally small shell fish, called pholas. These are under- stood to be furnished with an acid, by means of which they exca* vate for themselves in the rock the curious habitation which it has been intended that they should occupy. PlarUationg. — The plantations consist of Scots fir, wiih some mixture of larch, beech, and other trees fitted to the poorer soils ; but, the subsoil being very generally close and retentive, they can- not be said to be remarkably thriving. Where this unfavourable influence is absent, the kinds specified appear to answer very well, * Tlieee are Tulgarly known by the name of *^ Becnie blues" or ** Blue heathens.** Many of tbem have been retnoTed in the progress of agriculture. The method of breaking them is by kindling a fire on the upper surface of the stone, and then sud* denly changing its temperature by an affusion of cold water. In this way Hannibal cicavated a path through the Alps ; and it it said to be generally employed in Africa at the pre^nt day. t The geology and botany of this district have been scientifically investigated by John Shier, Esq. Lecturer on Natural Hi^ory in Marischal College, Aberdeen. X These, placed under a bed, are believed by some to be a protection against night. mare ! Superstitions, some of them too ridiculous to be mentioned, still linger among the more ignorant. It is a humiliating fact, that two women here, a mother and daughter in succestioo, the latter of whom died lately, obtained their livelihood chiefly by pretending to practise the blaek art. Their practice lay not « in their own country*** BANFF, "224 BANFFSHIHfe. Hard-wood trees are vigorous and healthy in the vicinity of the Castle of Boyn, where, though so much under the influence of the sea air, they prove the perfect congeniality of our climate to the more valuable kinds of native wood, when enjoying the com* bined advantages of shelter and fertile soil. The orchard of the castle yields abundant crops of the black and red wild cherry. II. — Civil History. History, — There is a manuscript history of the town and parish of Banff in the *hands of Patrick Rose, Esq. Sheriff-clerk, drawn up by his late father, which contains some notices of the ancient land-owners of this district. The same gentleman possesses the decreet of disjunction of Banif from this parish, of which it for- merly was a parts dated 1 7th June 1635. Plans of nearly the whole lands of the parish are in the hands of the noble proprietor. By tradition this parish is held to have been the scene of an en- gagement with the Danes, at a point near the old church. Ac- cordingly, a trench, 611ed with bones of a large size, is known to exist on the north side of the road, about thirty yards from the churchyard. The field to the north of the road is at the present day known by the name of the '* Arrdanes," and another on the ris^ ing ground to the east is called the ^* Swurd danes ;" names believ* ed to carry in them the remembrance of the position of two several divisions of the invading Northmen, armed with arrows and with swords. Was this the battle in which Indulf, the Scottish King, was slain, a. d. 968? It took place " in littore Boince** Yet it may be fairly doubted whether Cullen, also within the district of Boyne, has not a preferable claim to the honour of having been the locality of that battle. More probably this was one of the engagements under Malcolm II. contemporaneous with tho«e at Gamrie and Cruden. The connexion of the patron saint of the parish with that king, and the known taste of the latter for build- ing churches, in acknowledgement of his victories, and restoring those wasted in his wars, favours the supposition, that the church of this parish, dedicated to St Brandon,* had owed its existence or restoration to his liberality in connexion with such an event as is supposed in its neighbourhood.f * Brandon was a naonk of the order of St Benedict, who died about a, d. 1000- His festival was held on 16th May. Brandon feir, now held in Banif, formerly, it is understood, in " Brannan Hmo^ near the old church, takes place on 26th May, N. S. He had been held in great estimation and personal friendship by Malcolm II. pre* viously to Malcolm*s victorious career against the Danes as King of Scotland, which dignity he only obtained iu 1003, after the date of Brandon's death. t The events referred to in the teyt seem to warrant us in assertipg, what is not generally known, that Scotland, at least, has been saved from slavery, not once>only, j^y a " battle of the Boyne." BOINDIE. 225 Antiquities, — Various military antiquities, discovered here, a^e worthy of notice ; some of them, perhaps, connected with the Da- nish engagement referred to. To the west of the locality, described in connection with it, on the rocky eminences on the north side of the road, two circular encampments may still be traced. Immedi« ately below the upper one of these, on the southern declivity, stands a large perpendicular stone, surrounded by a causeway. A little beyond this, on the opposite side of the road, not far from the site of the old mansion-house of Buchragie, may be traced the huge remains of what may possibly have been a Roman camp. On a field lying to the north-east of the manse, and on the south side of the Banff and Portsoy road, there may be traced a large circular excavation, supposed to mark the site of an ancient en- campment. In this neighbourhood, and over the district, nume- rous flint arrow-heads have been turned up by the plough ; many of them of a yellow kind of flint, not found in boulders in this part of the country. A short Roman* sword was found in the bogs of Reattie, and lodged in the armoury at DuS* House. Iti the immediate neighbourhood of the manse offices, on the west side, a stone coffin with its contents was found a number of years ago, and deposited again in its place. A huge red s(one is said to have stood about this spot before the erection of the offices. Three Druidical circles are known to the writer in the parish ; one near the parish church, another within a mile to the north- east, and a third on the farm of Bankhead. At some distance to the south of the last, on the same rising ground, known by the name of the Lodgehills, are to be seen a number of large stones, not, however, circularly disposed, commonly called the Bfannan Stanes. Under one of these, an urn, containing coins, said to have been much defaced, was found a number of years ago. On the field to the north-east of the manse, already described, and on the line of an old road, was found-f* a few years ago, a seal, composed of fine clay slate, at first supposed to bear the arms of Archbishop Sharp, who was a native of Banff. These have been since proved to be the armorial bearings of Bishop James Kennedy, also of St Andrews, who founded the University of St Andrews, iu * The great Roman road to Burghead is believed to have crossed by the hill of Barry, near the Knoc'khill. A hypothesis is hazarded by some, and maintained oo plausible grounds, that the Knock hill is the Mons Grampius of Tacitus. f By Mr Alexander Gumming, in Graigherbs, who himself takes considerable interest in matters of antiquity ; and although a man of limited education, ba» no mean powers as a writer of verses. 226 BANFFSHIUE. the fifteenth century. Around the fannily arms, and the cro9«r of St Andrew, surmounted by the mitre, appears the legend ** Jacobus Episcopns Sancti Andre/' Near the north-east corner of the wood of Whyntie,* is an artificial mound, known by the name of the Gallows cairn, on which tradition of course testifies that many suffered by the righteous or capricious decree of their feudal lord. Unplanted avenues have been left, from this point towards the mansions of Boyn, Inchdrewer, &c., report says, as a memorial of the right enjoyed by the surrounding barons in common, of award- ing to their vassals, at pleasure, the crowning and peculiar privi* lege of the place. Another gallows cairn exists in the parish, on the summit of the Lodgehills, deriving its name from having been the place of execution of a man and woman, who conspired in putting to death the husband of the latter, farmer in Midtown of Badenspink, in Fordyce parish, about the beginning of last ceo* tury. About thirty yards to the east of the steading, on the farm of Dallachy, below the old road, five or six urns, containing the remains of bones, were found a few years aga They were of rude construction, except one, which is said to have been well shaped, ornamented with diagonal lines crossing each other, and surmounted by a lid and handle. The adjoining houses were built on a reputed Elf hillock. Another similar urn was found a few years ago at the base of a small circular mound, at the lower extremity of the plantation extending from Craig-herbs to the turnpike road. Many such barrows have been opened in this part of the country. There is much reason to doubt whether they were Roman. Eminent Persons.'-^The parish had the honour of giving birth to Thomas Ruddiman, the eminent Latin grammarian, and libra- rian to the Faculty of Advocates, whose father, James Ruddiman, was farmer at Raggal. His name does not appear in the paro- chial register, which only commences at a distance of above twenty years after the time of his birth, said to have been in the year 1674. Here also was born a personage whose fame is of a different character, Mrs Buchan, the founder of a religious sect * The late Mr James Morrison, tenant of Wbjntie obtained unexpected publicity fw bis name, as being tbe subject of a famous letter by the Lord Advocate to the SherifT-suhstitute of the county in December 1803, which, having found its way to Mr Whitbread, furnished him with an occasion of effectively vindicating the prin- ciples of British liberty. Persons from England visited Whyntie, expecting to see a representative of the Hambdens of other days. Mr Morrison declined. a pro- posal by bis fellow parisbionert, to institute an action at law in this case, to be car* rjed on at their own expense. BOINDIE. 227 in the west of Scotland. An account of her history may be found in Chambers' Scottish Biographical Dictionary. She is said to have made several proselytes in her native parish. Parochial Registers. — The parochial register of baptisms ap* pears to have been kept with considerable regularity from ITOO, the date of the first entry, till about 1770.* From this period till 1827, greater or less irregularity and incompleteness are observ- able. Till 1827, the marriage register consists of only a few frag- ments, having reference to the beginning of last century. There is no proper register of burials. Some interesting minutes of ses- sion are pre^served for the period intervening between 1698 and 1706.t Proprietors* — The Elarl of Seafield, who succeeded the late Earl of Findlater and SeaGeld, is sole proprietor. The chief part of the land formerly belonged to the family of Ogilvie of Boyn, Baronets. This family, in common with the families of Findlater and of Banff, (the latter of which is represented by Abercromby of Birkenbog, Bart.) was a branch of the house of Airlie. Sir Walter Ogilvie of Boyn, great-grandson of Sir Walter Ogilvie of Auchterhouse, * The witnesses, whether two or more, appear to have been uniformly of the same Christian name with the child baptized, if a male, for instance, under date April 10, I7d8, ** George Allan, in Upper Blairmade, had a lawful! son baptised, called Alexander,—- Alexander Irvine, minister of Fordyce ; Alexander Law, younger, Alex* ander Peterkine in Newmill, and Alexander Ogilvie in Culfin, witnesses.*' In the event of the name being an uncommon one, a difficulty would occur in finding the qualified witnesses. In one instance, at the baptism of a '^ Theodore," the parties of this name introduced are designed *^ godfathers." f Besides an annual payment by the session of L.4 Scots <* as their proportion of the Presbytery burse of Fordyce" for the support of a student of divinity, 1 find col- lections, from time to time, for such objects ms the following ; — ^* The rebuilding of Kinghorn harbour,**—** the redemption of Christians taken by the barbiirians,'*— • ** for the inhabitants of Leith,** — ** Auchmedden*s hnrlxiur at Pennan," — *^ building an bridge over Dee, at Pittarch." The discipline then in use was rigid, not only in the methods of correction which it employed, but also in the inflexible determination with which it was extended over the whole population. Probably the ministry thus acquired too much of a magisterial character, and its influence in training up *' a wiU ling people" was impaired. But the fault was that of the age, and we would do well, avoiding the extreme opposite error of our own times, to unite with the use of more winning methods than theirs, some degree of the vigour with which they prosecuted their warfare against sin, and by means of which they were the honoured instrumenta of elevating their country to a moral rank unequalled in the history of the world. Take an instance in an act of the Synod of Aberdeen, intimated January 1705 ; ** As to the restraining the horrid sin of drunkenness, appoint ministers and eldeis to deal privately within their bounds with any they know to be inclined to this vice. And if they alratain not, that then in the general they intimate from pulpit, without men- tioning any person's name, that there are some persons in the congregation known to the minister and session to be given to the sin of drunkenness, who have rot obeyed private admonition, and therefore they are again warned to reform, — ■otherwise if they persist, they are to be then brought before the congregation, and there rebuked. And if, after all. they continue in this horrid sin, or prove contumacious, that then their names be intimate from pulpit as grossly scandalous persons and that this act be duly execute by all sessions without respect of persons." 228 BAIVFFSHIRE. and son of Sir Walter Ogilvie of Auchleven, (who acquired, by his marriage, the baronies of Deskford and Findlater,) was com* mon ancestor of the families of Ogilvie of Boyn, of Dunltigas or of Banff, and of Stratherne. He got the thanedom of Boyn by marriage, in 1485, with Margaret, daughter of Sir James Edmon- stone of that Ilk. Boyn continued in the family from father to son, till the beginning of last century, when Sir Patrick Ogilvie of Boyn, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, having got into great debt, by that means broke up the estate, and it passed to the ancestor of its present owner, the Earl of Seafield. The family, in males, is now said to be extinct. A superiority on the estate is still held by a collateral female branch, in virtue of which the husband of the party, Admiral Maitland, stands enrolled on the list of freeholders entitled to vote for a member for the county of Banff. The House or Castle of Boyn, the family mansion on the Boyn water, near its junction with the sea, is still standing, and, as a ruin, is tolerably entire. * This mansion exhibits the remains of considerable beauty and magnificence. In front may be traced a double row of gardens and terraces, with flights of stairs. The highly picturesque scenery by which it is surrounded, such as it is remarked that limestone districts are generally distinguished by, is one of the chief objects of interest in this part of the country. The ruins of a more ancient residence and place of strengthf are still to be observed, remarkably It was dilapidated about or soon after the middle of last century, when the roof was removed, and the hewn stones used for buildings in the parish. i* When ** the gallant Montrose" was carrying devastation airongthe Covenanters of the north, we read that '' from Findlater, he marches to the Boyne, plunders the country, and burns the bigging pitifully, and spuilsied the minister's goods, gear, and l)ooks. The laird himself keeps the.craig of Boyne, wherein he was safe; but bis haill lands, for the most part, were thus burnt up and destroyed." The minister thus treated was Mr William Chalmer, who was succeeded by Mr Patrick Chalmer. he probably by Mr Peter Darling, who died in 1730. 'Ihe succes- sion from that date is as follows ; Mr Alexander Philp, translated from Dcskfordi died 1738; Mr James Anderson, translated to Cullen 1752; Mr James Dunbar, died 17.^ ; Mr Alexander Milne, died February 1830. having been ordained in No. vemhcr 1785, Mr Philp was the first in the Presbytery apparently settled under a presentation. When laid on the Presbytery Uble by Lord Findlater*s secretary, the obnoxious document seems to have considerably perplexed them. ^* After rea- soning/' however, they simply appointed a meeting at Boyndie *< for sounding the inclinations of the people/' and ** moderating in a call/* Against this course, the patron's agent protested. ^* The wadsetters, elders, and beads of families*' were found unanimously fop Mr Fhilp, and, ** accordingly, a call was subscribed with great peace and harmony." Mr Philp was asked his mind " anent call and presentation." He declared his opinion that *^a spiritual and ecclesiastical relation betwixt pastor and peo- ple could only be fixed by ecclesiastical persona, and founded on spiritual considera- tions ; yet haying such a clear and legal document of the inclinations of the people of 3oyndie, and understanding the mind of his brethren, he hopes it will give no of. BOINDIE. 229 situated on the west side of the burn, on a precipitous rock by the brink of the sea, below the mansion, to which, under the inBuence of advancing civilization and re6nement» it hud given place. Ogilvies also possessed, probably as wadsets^ the smaller estates of Baldavie, Culfin, and Buchragie. The foundation of the man- sion-house of the last family, with the garden adjoining, may be traced on the rocky eminence to the west of the old church. The estate of Reattie belonged to a family of the name of Dunn. This was one of the first parishes in the north of Scotland in which the alternate husbandry was practised. It was introduced here about 1754, upon the farm of Craigherbs, by the father of the last Earl of Findlater, at that time himself Lord Deskford, and heir-apparent to the estates.* It is stated in the old Sta- tistical Account, however, that, even at the date of its pub- lication, at the distance of about fifty years, it had not come into general practice. The same Nobleman laid out the older plantations in the parish. Those in the eastern part of the parish and along the coast side road, (partly now removed), with the nu- merous clumps adorning the hills of Boindie to the south-east, were designed to bound the grounds of a mansion projected by Lord Deskford about the present site of the manse. An excam- bion had been nearly efiected with Lord Banff, in order to acquire the hills to the south-west, with the view of completing an amphi- theatre of ornamental plantations from three to four miles in dia- meter, the whole extent of which would have been in view from the commanding situation of the house. Circumstances, however, led to the abandonment of this grand project. It is understood that the common furze or whins with which the parish is now over- run, was unknown here until sown by this Earl of Findlater, for the use of the fishermen in curing their fish.'f' fenc«, if he be removed.from Deskford couform to the rules of this Church, he do not decliDe sny civil right oonsisteot with the principles of the Church of Scotland, and so does accept of said presentation, as giving him a legal right and title to the stipend of that paroch.*' Tliis is a remarkable record, on the one hand, of the views enter- tained by a patron at that period of the effect of his right in extinguishing the influ- ence of the congregation, and, on the other hand, of the view under which our fore- fathers were able to reconcile the acceptance of a presentation to their principles. * An anecdote is often related as illustrative of the liberal views of this distinguish, ed improTer. The overseer of the above &rm complained that his labours and anxie- ties for the success of the turnip field were frustrated by the thefts of the neighbour- hood. ** That precisely answers my purpose,** was the answer, ** having learned their value in this way, they will not fail to spw a few for themselves.** It is appre- bended that his Lord8hip*s enlightened views had not extended to the necessary con- neotion between the ** right moral and the right economic condition of society.** My .the way, this Nobleman did not maintaia his character for liberality in all things, having acted on the principle of tolerating no Roman Catholic tenants. t The green shoots, when bruised, are occasionally used as a w inter food for horses. 230 BANFP8HIRE. IIL — Population. Dr Webster is said to huve stated the population io 1765 at 994 souls. The baptism register shows an aTerage of about 85 births annually during the 6rst twenty years of last century, while before and after the said date of 1755, the average appears redu- ced to 29. According to the present proportion between the po- pulation and the number of births, this would indicate the popula- tion to have been nearly at the former period what it was found to be at last census, and greater at the latter period than Dr Web- ster's report makes it appear. But the proportion of births to the population must have been greater then than now, in consequence of the new agricultural economy employing chiefly unmarried ser- vants. This reconciles the state of the fact, as recorded by Dr Webster, with the large number of births appearing at the same period in the register, and forbids us to estimate the population at the more remote period at above 1 100 or 1200. It thus appears, however, that a decrease had taken place during the former half of last century. Accordingly, there appears to have been anciently a number of hamlets in the lower part of the parish, in places which are now wholly depopulated. 1 he introduction of large farms, joined to the exclusion of the families of servants and labourers, has operated in reducing the population in the same district to the pre- sent day, although more than a compensating increase till recently was taking place in the villages and in the moorland district in the south end of the parish. Amount of the population in 1681,* • IdOl A large proportion of the youths are now engaging in trades to the neighbouring towns. Number of population in the village in 1831, (about one- half seafaring), 023 countryt • 878 The yearly average of births for the last seven years, 38 deaths, about 25 marriages. 6 The number of persona under 15 years of age in 1631, 473 between 15 and SO 465 aO and 50, 327 50 and 70, 159 above 70, 77 1501 Unmarried men, Ac above 50, 15 women above 45, 33 Average number of children in each family, U * By the census of 1841 the population is the same aa in 1881, io a unit ; but there is in reality a small decrease, about 15 tinkers happening to beenoaroped iathe parish •n the day of the enumeration. 4 BOINDIK* 231 No resident proprietor. Our population comprehends three insane, six fatuous, besides several persons of marked weakness of intellect ; none deaf and dumb. The condition and habits of the fishing population of Whitehills are deserving of particular notice. They form a society quite dis« tinct from the agricultural labourers residing in the same YiHage^ intermarrying almost exclusively among themselvesi* or occasion- ally with neighbouring sea&ring communities. Hence they may be generally distinguished from the agricultural inhabitants by their personal appearance, their complexion being clear, and their females possessing superior comeliness. The herring* fishery has afforded them opportunities of improving their circumstances, of which a certain number of them have availed themselves, thus attaining a degree of comfort in their dress and in the style of their houses and furniture, quite superior to what their forefathers enjoyed. Evil, however, has resulted from the herring-fishery in the case of those of less frugal habits, who, by the prospect of large returns, have been permitted to incur debts to an amount which keeps them permanently embarrassed, while it exercises a pernicious influence on their character and energies. As amongst others of the same class, the wife occupies a far more important position in the family than in other situations of life. While, in addition to ft the ordinary domestic duties, she is subjected to the daily labour of baiting the lines and preparing the fish for sale, to her belongs the formidable task of carrying the fish to market, often a dis- tance of many miles. But the prosperity of the family depending upon the success with which the last duty is discharged, she adopts a tone, and is allowed an influence which in another condition of life would appear little consistent either with feminine propriety or domestic order. The introduction of the herring-fishery indeed has in some degree lessened her pretensions, rendering the family great- ly, dependent upon a source of emolument in which her exertions are little available; but she still usually claims the di^sal of the entire proceeds of the white fishery^ prosecuted throughout ten months of the year, as her exclusive prerogative. The seafaring inhabitants of Whitehills are not without some of the faults with which the class are generally chargeable ; these * The relative numberi of the few prevailing names are as follows : 117 Watsons, 47 Lovies, 25 Adamsons, 25 FindUys, 21 Bitohies. 232 BANFFSHIRE. chiefly arising from a natural saoguiDeness of temper, and the in- fluence, perhaps, of the necessary ayocations of the females upon themselves and their children, who suffer from the want of con- stant maternal superintendence. But no impartial observer will deny to them the credit of being, on the whole, superior to most other Ashing comniunities on this coast Many of them are in- telligent, and strictly exemplary in their moral conduct, and re* gular in their observance of the ordinances of religion, which has hitherto, in the case of a growing number, been, it is believed, better than the form of Godliness. They show no disposition to cast themselves, or their aged parents and relatives, upon public charity ; but, regarding it as a degradation, submit (o privations in order to avoid it. They are cleanly in their habits ; and fish cured by them consequently bears a superior reputation. Most of them having their stated customers, it is not uncommon for them to deal with these by means of an open account, enjoying the confix dence of their employers, and supplying their commodity without the formality of a noisy contest about the price. An advance in civilization has here had its usual influence in postponing the period of marriage, which, in fishing communities, usually occurs at a very early stage of life. The males continue to form a part of their father's family, until they have acquired the me^ns first of paying a fourth share of a herring-boat and nets, and then, from the proceeds of this, of building and furnishing u house ; and, among the more respectable, the building, indepen- dent of the furniture, has generally amounted to L.100. They have not continued fully to maintain the high reputation for purity established for them by the fact, that, till within (he last twelve years, there had scarcely been an illegitimate birth in the commu- nity in the memory of man. The farm-servants are the class of the population, morally and economically, in the least satisfactory state. They are hired half- yearly, in the public market, on a purely commercial principle ; and many of them seldom re-engage to their former masters. A small number of them appear regularly in their places in the house of Grod, or form any proper connection with ecclesiastical society. Being mere sojourners in a parish, and unknown to minister or people, they are not missed ; and, were it otherwise, feel them- selves independent of public opinion. The presbytery of Fordyce, some time ago, and the synod of BoiNDier. ^33 Aberdeen, and yarious other synods more recently, have taken up the subject, especially recommending that diets of catechizing should be held* after each half yearly term, for enabling the mi« nister to form an acquaintance with persons having come into the parish, and to recommend to them such means of improvement as the parochial institutions may present. This, or some similar ar* rangement, is demanded by the circumstances of the class under review. The labouring classes suffer generally from their want of opportunity for retirement ; but many of the farm-servants are, besides, subjected to the powerful demoralizing influence of young persons being congregated in a bothy, or out*kitchen, without either the humanizing ties, or the wholesome restraints, of the do- mestic institution. Again, in many cases, their early education has been extremely defective ; so that although they can in some sense read, they want the inducements to the pursuit of knowledge possessed by those to whom the art is a ready channel of knowledge^ in the use of which no sensible effort is required. With wages va* rying from L.5 to L.7 in the half-year, they not unfrequently enter into the married state ; their wives and families being left at a distance without active employment, and without the benefit of paternal authority and care. Not having the means even of sup« plying their offspring with adequate food and clothing, they cannot suitably educate them. At the earliest possible age, their children are sent to earn their subsistence, when, removed from all parental oversight, and often neglected by their employers, they perhaps lose any good they have learned, and they grow up to furnish new instances of the evils of which we complain. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — Land cultivated, about 9600 acres Scots. Uncultivated, waste, or in pasture, about 6d0 * Might profitably be cultivated, perhaps 100 Plantations, about 600 The wood is regularly cared for, and thinned on approved prin- ciples. The average rent of arable land is about L. 1 per Scots acre ; some of the best farms, however, being still held under old leases at a low rent. * That is by einployitig hired labourers. Land not capable of being profiubly reclaimed in this way may contribute eminently to the prosperity and comfort of persons improving it by their own industrv, and ultimately not less to the rental of proprietors. Allotments of this kind, on judicious principles, are, in every view, a gcat public benefit. 234 BANFFSHIRE. The common breeda of cattle io the parish are the polled Bucb- aa kind, or a Banfthife breed with boros. A Teeswater bull was introduced by John Wilson, Esq. Brangan, in 1829^; and there are now four or five bulb of this kind in the parish) and consequently a considerable stock of the cross-breed is now reared, which are fed off when rising three or four year old for the London market. A large flock of sheep is kept on the farm of Mill of Boindie ; but this stock b not kept on any of the other farms, there being no range of suitable pasture for the purpose. It would contribute to the im- provement of the light dry soil in the low part of the parish to con- sume turnips on the ground with sheep, as it would tend to obviate the badeffectsof frequentcultivationonsoilof thischaracter. Wheat husbandry has been practised to a considerable extent within the last ten years in the low part of the parish, but it is again very much abandoned. Independently of the soil being generally a sand, the climate on an average of years is incapable of maturing other than an inferior sample of this grain ; and the coarseness of the straw is a serious objection in a cattle-feeding district. The Chevalier barley is also generally abandoned, being found, although a fine sample, to be too late, and to yield a deficient return in quantity. Leases now granted are for nineteen years. The houses of the fiirmers are generally very superior. The offices have undergone a great improvement of late years. For houses the landlord ge- nerally allows one or two years rent in whole at the expiry of the lease. The more recent erections have far exceeded this allow- ance. For the improvement of waste land L.5 per acre is allow- ed, for which 7^ per cent, per annum is charged from the tenant. Several of the farms on the coast are enclosed with dry stone dikes. One of the principal improvements executed in this parish of late years, has been the reclaiming of the marshes lying along the course of the burn of Boindie, chiefly on the farm of John Milne, Esq. at Mill of Boindie. Frequent draining, chiefly with stones from the sea-beach, about the size of road metalling, is now going forward on the farms of Alexander Rainy, Esq. factor for the Earl of Seafield. Alexander Murray, Esq. at Whitehills, intends to put the same plan in practice on his fields at Lochside, which, when thoroughly drained, will confirm the reputation of his farm as the most highly improved in this district.* * Thin farm, Kitktown of Boindie, affords an instructive example of the cflect of BOINDIB. 335 The most spirited improvements have gone forward on the farms of Reattie and Little Reattie, extending to about 400 acres Scots, during the occupancy of the present ^tenant, An- drew Longmore, Esq, Within the last nineteen years, besides building houses to the amount of L.2000, he has executed the following improvements : 50 acres of waste land reclaimed, at an expense, he estimates, of L.12 up to L. 24 per Scots acre; 30,000 ells of stone draining, for 10,000 of which the stones were quarried; 8000 ells of tile-draining; 8000 ells of thorn hedges planted last season ; 6000 additional to be planted next season, plants furnished by the proprietor; a formidable improve- ment in blasting and removing above 3000 tons of hornblende blocks sunk in the soil, the removal of some single stones costing above L» 5 ; an expensive but productive improvement on the haugh land, in connexion with the cutting of a new course for the bum. The climate upon Little Reattie is sensibly improved, and the harvest considerably earlier, since the draining was executed. Turf drains have been employed on this farm and elsewhere, but have been found very t^piporary in their operation, being destroyed es- pecially by moles. The system of frequent draining now com* roenced, if carried forward, promises to effect a great transforma- tion on the agricultural character of this parish, a large part of which is rendered infertile by wetness. A vast quantity of fish re- fuse, bone-dust, and sea-weed is annually added to the self-pro- duced manure of the farms. The burning of kelp was prohibited by Lord Deskford, with a view to the agricultural improYement of the parish. Irrigation is practised on the meadows at the mouth of the burn of Boindie ; and as that stream has considerable flats along its course, and its waters are of a fertilizing nature, perhaps the practice might be advantageously extended. Not a little slo- venliness is still displayed in the management of farmyard dung. The liberal encouragement afforded by the celebrated improver, Lord Findlater, (Lord Deskford), has doubtless had an important gooci larming. It extends to nett 60 acres Scots, with 20 acres of pasture, chieflj links. Tbe soil is chiefly very light, though dry and kindly. For several years ufter 1830, when it fell into the hands of the present tenant* he sunk more than tbe rent annually. It now yields, on an average, not less than 200 quarters oats and barley, the former weighing, per boll, 42 to 44 pounds, the latter 54 to 56. 9000 Mones of hay, partly consumed on the farm ; above 50 bolls of potatoes. The stock of cattle graied and kept on turnips and straw is, 1 Teeswater bull, 8 Buchan cows, and 30 risinj^ stock, 10 of which are fed off annually for the Loodon market, weighing fttm 45 to 60 Dutch stone; 12 sheep, 2 pigs, 4 work-borsea, 1 riding do. The course of cropping is a five shift, with two grasses. There is careful drying, early labouring, and abundant manuring. - 236 BANFFSHIRE. iu&tt«oce to the present day in the improvement of the parish, through the instrumentality of the wealth which it enabled the fa* milies who have been long in possession to acquire. The Noble family who now inherit the estates also pursue an encouraging and judicious system of letting, exacting a suitable rent, but never ejecting an^industrious tenant who makes a fair offer, or agrees to pay the rent fixed by a competent valuator. Fisheries. — The herring- fishing is prosecuted at Whitehills from the beginning or middle of July to the beginning or middle of Sep- tember. From nineteen to twenty-seven boats, each containing four men, have fished here since 1830. They have caught, on an average, during these years, only ninety-six cranes per boat, and have been paid on an average, lis. per crane. A boat equipped for sea costs L. 66 ; and a fleet of nets, L. 75. The former will run twelve years ; the latter only six. Salt is brought chiefly from Liverpool ; barrel-wood from Norway. The herrings when cured are exported to Germany and Ireland. The West India market is now lost, but as a compensation the prohibitory duty in Russia has lately been reduced to a moderate amount* One cooper and three women wait on shore for each herring-boat Coopers' wages are 12s. per week; in the fishing season, 14s. and Ids. Women receive for gutting and packing a full barrel, 7s. At this rate, with a sufiicient supply of work, they might earn 5s. by a day's work. The expense of curing a barrel of herrings is about 8s. besides the price of the fish. The abolition of the bounty is supposed to have had no bad effect,— the trade being still under the regulation of Government inspectors, who withhold their mark from an inferior article. Sixteen boats, each carrying four men, during the remainder of the season, fish for haddocks, &c. They go to sea at least 120 days in the year, and average not less than twelve dozen haddocks per boat each day, which will amount to about 23,000 dozen had- docks per annum, besides about 10,000 cod, ling, and skate. Had* docks will bring lOd. per dozen, and the other fish from 4d. to 5d. each. The above is a moderate calculation. The fishermen re- ceive about two bolls meal annually for their refuse, and about an equal value for black oil manufactured by themselves. The fish are usually sold within the district, but, in consequence of the great abundance caught last season, most of the boats carried a cargo to the south, as it was customary to do annually before the introduc-^ tion of the herring-fishing. BOINDIE. 23r About L. 60 yearly rent, on an average, is drawn by the pro-> prietor firom the fishing-boats. The proprietor furnishes each crew with one boll meal and 100 merks Scots, to aid in buying a new boat once in seven years, if required. For about an acre and a quarter of potato land, and the use of the boat, a crew pay L. 5 yearly rent. A good boat for the haddock-fishing costs L. 17, and will run eleven or twelve years. Instead of receiving the above allowance, and giving up the boat to the proprietor at the end of seven years, the fishermen are now agreeing to pay L« 4 per an- num each crew for right of fishing, including potato land, with freedom to possess boats of their own. Men above sixty years of age are allowed to fish free of rent* Muscle bait is brought an- nually from Sutherlandshire. Price of a boat's cargo, L. 3, be- sides the labour of gathering* The lobster-fishery is prosecuted by five or six boat crews by means of basket-nets, and the produce sent to London periodical- ly in the well smacks. 1 100 lobsters were caught last season, price 4d. each. The large number which die greatly increase the price to the purchasers. The salmon-fishery has been carried on of late years by bag- nets at Blackpots, near Whitehills, with progressively increasing success. The average produce from 1834 to 1837 amounted to about L.225 yearly. The salmon are either iced, or boiled and pickled with vinegar, and forwarded to the London market. I'he rent, understood to be paid by a subtenant for the fishery carried on here and at Findochty, may be estimated for the Boindie sta- tion, at L. 50, one-half of the whole, besides twenty per cent, on the fish caught above a certain amount. The average gross amount of raw produce may be estimated as follows : — 1600 actes gruin, 5 qrs. per acre, at L. I, 78. 6d. including fodder, L. 1 1,000 500 acres turnips, at L. 6 per acre, - L. 3000 150 acres potatoes, at L.10 per acre, - - 1500 Green crop in whole, -i.......^ 4,500 200 acres hay, at 160 stones per acre, at 6d. per stone, - 1,600 1000 oxen grazed, young and old, at L.2, lOs. - . 2,500 I^oduce of gardens, ^- - - • - «• 4000 Thinnings of wood, *- - - - » 160 00 Fisheries, ...... dOOO 250 horses grazed, young and old, at L.3, ... 750 Other miscellaneous produce, - • > - - 250 L.2d,800 Manufactures, — A manufacture of bricks, tiles, &c is carried on at Blackpots, near Whitehills. Eleven hands are employed in 338 BANFFSHIRE. the manufacture in the summer season. In winter, four or five are employed in preparing the clay. In consequence of this last operation being insufiBciently performed, the work had fallen into disrepute, and therefore probably has not been a remunerating con- cern for a considerable time, but, under careful management, it has again begun to command a large trade. The introduction of tile-draining may be expected still greatly to increase it Price of rooBng tiles per hundred, 7s. 6d. ; draining do. without bottoms, Ss. per hundred ; bricks, 3s. 6d. per hundred. The bleaching and preparation of threads and stockings for the market was formerly prosecuted extensively at old bridge of Boin- die, in connection with Messrs Robinson's manufactory in Banff. Both the manufactory and bleachfield, with other similar works in this part of Scotland, have been long ago abandoned. At the above point there is now a saw-mill in full employment,* — work executed at Is. dd. per 100 feet of wood. Several miles up the stream, on the Boindie side, there are two meal-mills. On the bum of Boyn, there is a wool carding mill, largely employed, chief- ly for country work, where the weaving and dyeing of cloth is also carried on. On this stream, there were formerly two lint-mills ; one is abandoned, and the other little employed. Proceeding down- wards from these, there is a flour and barley mill, and a meal mill. The astriction of lands to particular mills is now in the course of being abolished ; and the multures have been commuted into a money payment with the rent. The multures, including service on some lands previously to this change, amounted to one*eleventh of the wh«>le grain milled. The charge for milling oats is from 6d. to 8d. per boll. V. — Parochial Economt. Market-Toum^ Sfc — The nearest market-town on the east side of the parish is Banff, at the distance of a mile and a half from the boundary. Portsoy stands at a like distance on the west. In each of these, there is a post-office and a ready market for grain, and in the former, for the produce of the dairy. The only village in the parish is Whitehills, already described. . The turnpike road from Banff to Portsoy extends above three miles within this pa- rish from east to west ; and the branch which diverges from it to Keith and Huntlyonthe left, extends a distance of about two miles to the point at which it joins Ordiquhill. These, and the several county roads pass the streams by which the parish is bounded by * In oonncetion with it, there is now a pit for kyanizing wood, &c. DOINDIE. 239 bridges mostly sufficient, at ten separate points. There is a small harbour at Whitehills^ having ten to eleven feet depth of water at spring-tides, serving for the landing of herrings in the fishing sea« son, and admitting two or three vessels for the exportation of her- rings, and the importation of salt, coals, &c. There is another small harbour a little to the east, near to the brick-work at Black- pots, intended for the exportation of tiles, and like the former, af- fording accommodation for the prosecution of the herring- fishery. At this point, too, the salmon-fishery is carried on. Ecclesiastical State — The church is situated at the distance of five miles from the south-west extremity, and nearly two miles from the north-east extremity of the parish. Since the erection of the new church at Ord, with which 250 of the population, in the remote district, have naturally connected themselves, the situation of the church is sufficiently central and convenient It was built in 1773, when the old church, the ruins of which still exist in the burying-ground, near the sea, was abandoned. It is comfortably fitted up, and in good repair. There was left, in the year 1809, by the Rev. James Stewart, a native of the parish, and a clei^yman of the Church of England, in the late American colonies, in trust to the kirk -session and the presbytery, a sum now amounting to L.391, intended to yield L.1, iOs. of an annual gratuity to each of six poor persons of the parish, and the same allowance, as a bursary, for defraying the education expenses of six poor boys of the parishioners. The church afibrds accommodation for 600 persons. The poor are freely accommodated in the seats attached to the land, and in a gallery held in trust by the kirk-session* The manse was built, for the first time, in its present situation, a year or two after the removal of the church. The old manse is still habitable, not less so than its successor, which is in an insufficient state.* The glebe extends to about seven Scots acres, and may be worth L.7 per annum. The stipend is 15 chalders ; equal parts of meal and barley. It has ranged, since the commencement of the writer's incumbency in 1880, from L.172 to L.284. L.8, 6s. 8d. is al- lowed for communion elements. There is no chapel of ease, or other additional place of reli- gious worship, within the boundaries of the parish ;t but there was * A very commodious new manse is now nearly finished near the present site. March 1842. t The Methodists have lately erected a small chapel in Whitehills, the use of which is liberally allowed to the writer and his people on Ssblrath evenings. BANFF. Q 240 BANFFSHIRE. m erected, in 1834, at Ord, in the extreme west end of Banff parish, a chapel, intended, partly, for the accommodation of the remote parishioners of Boindie, in which a minister has been ordained, enjoying an allowance of L.20 per annum from th^ Royal Bounty. The whole adult population, with more or less regularity, at- tend the Established Church, except, attending the chapels of Dissenters of different denominations, 35 ; Methodists, 20 ; Epis- copalians, 12 ; Roman Catholics, 2 ; comprehending in all, 69 individuals, and about 20 families. Divine service is generally well attended, except by the farm- servants, and a certain number of families of the lower classes, chiefly in the village, sunk in poverty and its attendant evils. We certainly are strangers to the nearly uniform decency with which some parochial communities are blessed, whilst, at the same time, we are not without some development of spiritual good. Two facts may be stated, well fitted to illustrate the state of society thus described. During the writer's incumbency, there have been resident in the parish eight women, all except one having fami* lies, deserted by their husbands. On the other hand, there are, in the village of Whitehills, from twenty to thirty men, who can conceive and utter an extempore prayer with no less fluency, and with little less propriety, than most educated ministers, and of whom it may be testified, without claiming for them graces in pro- portion to their gifts, that, on the whole, their conduct is not in- consistent with their profession. There are several meetings for prayer and mutual instruction, of which the writer can speak, among the members of the Established Church ; and he believes they have been the means o{ advancing true religion in some de- gree in the parish. The average number of communicants is about 400, besides a proportionate number in the population attached to the Ord Chapel. There is a parochial association for religious purposes, partly subordinate to a presbyterial association extending over the district. The funds are collected quarterly. A moiety of them, not ex- ceeding one-half, are applicable to religious objects within the pa- rish, as providing books for the Sabbath schools, educating poor children, providing Bibles for the poor. The remainder is des- tined to be applied for the support of the Bible Society, and such of the General Assembly's schemes for propagating the Gospel at home and abroad, as the contributors may select. There has been collected, during the three years of its existence, on an ave- BOINDIE. 241 rnge, about the sum of L.ld^annually^ of which above two*thirds have been applied to religious objects not in the parish. There are, besides, two collections yearly, for a Presbyterial Pauper Lunatic Fund, and for the Aberdeen Infirmary ; the two together amounting on an average to L.7 Sterling, The whole sum collected in church for charitable objects, is about L.45 per annum. Subscriptions are occasionally entered into, to procure a supply of fuel and clothing for the poor, which have amounted usually to L. 12 or L.15. Besides, there have in recent years been large contributions for church extension, new schools, apd for the starving Irish and Highlanders. There are three schools in the parish taught by masters, an in- fant school, several dame schools, and numerously attended Sab- bath schools. The parochial schoolmaster has the minimum sa- lary, with the legal accommodations ; but enjoys an interest in the admirably administered bequest of the late Mr Dick. In addition to the common branches, he teaches Latin, Greek, geography, and the higher branches of mathematics. The two additional schools, one of which is at a distance of nearly three miles towards the upper extremity of the parish, and the other is at Whitehills, within a mile and a half, receive, from the liberality of the pro- prietor, L.8, 9s. 6^d. divided between them, and also three bolls of meal each. Each possesses an excellent school and schooU house built by subscription. There is no need of an additional school, except it be for females. Those already in existence might be more conveniently situated. Indeed, since the erection of a new parochial school in the adjoining district of BaniF parish, two only, judiciously placed, might be made to serve the wants of the whole community. The union of the two small salaries attached to the additional schools might, in this case, warrant the reduction of the fees, which, althougti varying only from 2s. 6d. to 38. 6d. per quarter, are obviously too high for the means of a poor la- bourer having to support a family out of an income of from L.10 to L.15 per annum. The infant school has recently been insti- tuted in Whitehills, to be supported by voluntary subscriptions from the Honourable Mrs Grant-f and others. If well conducted, * Compare tbu with L.^0 given for whisky by the fifib-eurer» to the peraoos en- gaged in the herring-fishery ; and this is the merest fraction of what is q>ent in the same way throughout the year. t We have since had to hunent the removal of this Christian and benevolent lady, by death. 242 BANFFSHIRE/ it must exercise an important influence in obviating the unfavour* able circumstances, already adverted to, to which the children of a fishing population are peculiarly subjected. The number at- tending school, including infant and dame schools, and an evening school, about]^22G ; Sabbath schools, Ord district excluded, about 170; Bible class, ditto, about 8(X The writer does not know any of the community between six and fifteen who cannot read or write. There are a few individuals above fifteen, who, to all useful purposes, labour under this inabi- lity. This applies to the resident population. .Persons are fre- quently met with among the migratory class of farm-senrants whose education has been totally neglected. . Library^ — A parochial library, consisting of an excellent collec- tion of works in religion and general knowledge, has been in exist- ence a good many years. It contains 164 volumes. The sub- scription is now only 6d. half-yearly. Friendly Society. — A Friendly Society was in existence in Whitehills ; but it was broken up and the funds divided on the passing of the act for new modelling this class of institutions. Savings Bank. — The parish schoolmaster acts gratuitously both as parochial librarian and as receiver of deposits for the Banff Central Savings Bank, on the national security system. The fish- ermen usually deposit their savings in considerable sums, after the herring-fishery, in the common banks, and the other great labour- ing class, who might have something to lay by, are generally strangers in the parish, and therefore not likely to make deposits in it, even were they inclined to save, — hence the privileges of this institution have not been extensively embraced. PooT^^ /"ttjkff.— About 40 persons have been accustomed to re- ceive stated parochial relief. At present, the number on the roll is 35. About five persons generally are in the receipt of a weekly allowance at the rate of Is. each. A quarterly distribution takes place, at which sums of 4s. and 5s. are allotted to the whole poor on the roll. The funds arise from, church collections annually, Xi.36, 10s.; interest of money, L.32, 13s. 4d. This does not in- clude Mr Stuart's bequest, recorded above.* It is a peculiarity in our parochial economy, that the poor funds of the fishing and the general population have always been kept distinct from each other. The seafaring community occupy a gallery by themselves, which admits of the separation of their contributions. Part of the * Tiiere is also an annual distribution of nine bolls of nneal given by the proprietor. boindie:. 243 bunii from which the interest above stated arises, is leni out in their name.* Fairs. — A fair for the sale of cattle, &c has been lately insti- tuted at Ordens, in the western part of this parish, appointed to be held eight times in the year, and promises to be a great accom- modation for the disposal of fed stock in the winter season. Publie*Home$. — We have five public-houses or spirit-shops in Whitehills, and three in the landward districLf Three, instead of eight, would be a liberal supply for the real wants of the public. However decent the character of their occupiers, the remaining 'five, in a public view, are to be simply regarded as so many li- censed traps, spread over the parish for the demoralization of the unwary traveller or neighbour. Fuel. — Peat fuel, from the mosses lying to the southward, is still chiefly used for the ugper district, and, to a considerable extent, even on the coast A mixture of peat and wood is generally used for smoke-drying haddocks. Miscellaneous Observations. The agricultural state of the parish has changed very remarkably Bince the date of the last Statistical Account. The small posses- sions, with their thatched cottages, which were then numerous, have now chiefly disappeared, and spacious fields surrounding insulated, and in some instances elegant buildings have taken their place. The alternate system of husbandry has become firmly rooted. In- stead of 60 acres of turnips, we have now 500. Thrashing-mills, not one of which had then been introduced, are now descending even to the class of crofters. Th^ farmers have grown in wealth and luxury, and, in a corresponding degree, in a spirit of honour-* able enterprise and activity. The fishing population have also been greatly advanced in their outward condition. It is to be lamented that no similar improvement has taken place in the condition of a large part of the labouring classes, if we except the increased cheapness of clothing having greatly advanced the comfort of many of them under this head. Elderly single wo- men, for instance, are probably in a worse situation than at the date * Were the tendency not continually checked, the pauperiam of the parish would be greatly increased. There are a number of persons removed a single grade in their circumstances above those on the roll who would at once become a burden on the pub- lic funds. When widows are left with families, a public subscription is generally raised, by which, well husbanded, most of them are carried through their difficulties. t One respectable person, the principal spirit vender in the village, has since abandoned the trade. 244 DANFFSUIBE. of last Account, When able for occasional field labour, earning by this 8d. a day without food, in the summer season they have chiefly to depend for winter sustenance on what they can save from this pit* tance, a week's industrious application to the spinning wheel yielding them only about sixpence. The male agricultural labourer when married enjoys a bare supply of the necessaries of life, and| when overtaken with premature old age, has too often to struggle with this, aggravated by the ills of poverty, or to receive a stinted al- lowance, or to occupy an unwelcome place in the family of a child. The rate of remuneration for the several branches of labour is probably beyond all direct human control. Yet much might ba done by proprietors, masters, and philanthropists generally, to ameliorate the condition of this class, by taking every means to break up their migratory habits, by subjecting them to the influ- ence of domestic instruction and restraints, by the introduction of the hind or cottar system* on large farms, instead of the demoralis- ing influence of the bothy, by encouraging saving habits and the use of savings' banks, by destroying or better regulating the sys- tem of hiring in markets, and by using every effort to remove those licensed temptations to drunkenness and improvidence in markets and otherwise, to which reference has been made. On the whole, it is to be hoped that the morality of the com- munity has advanced since the end of last century. Many things then openly practised are now esteemed more or less disreputable, as, for instance, among many, the drunkenness then esteemed so large an ingredient in good fellowship, profanity, smuggling, &c. It is to be lamented that licentiousness, lying, and reckless habits of backbiting, have hitherto given little evidence of being on the decline. By the blessing of God's Spirit, on the grand and ap- pointed instrument of human regeneration, we trust that another similar period may see these and all kindred obstacles to man's well-being effectually overcome. * The present and the former Statistical Account contain testimonies to the happy working of this system in districts where it has long prevailed. See Aooountf of Lang- ton, Hutton, Berwickshire ; Linton, Roxburghshire ; also Sir John Sinclair*s Ana- lysis of Old Account, p. 261. Drawn up December 1 839. Revised March 1 642. PARISH OF RATHVEN. PRESBYTERY 0¥ FORDYCE, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. JAMES GARDINER, MINISTER. L — Topography and Natural History. Namtf ^c. — ** Rathven," according to the writer of the last Statistical report of this parish, *^ is said, by those conversant in the Gaelic language, to be derived from two original words, the one signifying ^ brake' or ^ fern,' and the other ^ rock, eminence, or hillock.'" In support of this derivation he adds, *^ that there is a spot in the neighbourhood of the church called Brakenhaugh, and a farm named Rannachie, t. e, the Brakenfield." This, how- ever, is quite an erroneous derivation of the name. The spelling of the term in Gaelic is " iia/A-JAeawn," or " A^anTS,"— -the for- mer meaning a *^ circle of stones," and the latter '* a hill" or ^' mountain." That this, therefore, is the true etymology of the name, we have only, in order to satisfy ourselves, to look to the Benhill, which overhangs that part of the parish situated towards the south, and examine the numerous cairns found in various parts of it, especially on the Bauds, which shall be duly noticed under the head Antiquities. Extent and Boundaries. — This parish is situated in the district of the county named Enzie. It extends along the coast, from east to west, 10 miles, and nearly 5 in breadth ; and is bounded on the north, by the Moray Frith; on the east and south-east, by the parishes of CuUen and Deskford ; on the south, by Deskford and Keith ; and on the west, by Bellie. It contains 27,000 Scotch acres, or d-%750 imperial, and 42} square miles. Annual value of the real property in the parish, as assessed in 1815, L.73d6. Topographical Appearances, — Its figure is rather irregular, but approaches nearer to the form of a parallelogram than any other, though the square diminishes considerably towards the east* There is an extensive range of hills stretching from the Benhill on the 246 BANFFSHIRE. south-east, which bounds the southern part of the parish westward. The Benhiil, the highest, is 945 feet above the level of the sea, and serves as a land-roark to the fishermen, being seen by them, according to their calculation, at fully fifteen leagues distance. The other two hills, Maud and Adie, are of less elevation, and co- vered with heath to their summits. They extend, in a westerly direction, to the boundaries of the parish. The Benhill has been much improved of late by the Earl of Seafield causing a carriage- road to be made, which, by a circuitous course, leads to its top, the view from which, in all directions, is most extensive and com- manding. Previous to 1 744, this hill was covered with heath, but it was then richly planted to the very summit. Climate and SoiL — The greatest part of the parish has a north- west exposure, and suffers severely from the storms which blow from that quarter. The most prevalent complatnts are rheuma- tism and catarrhs, brought on by the alternations of heat and cold, particularly among the fishermen, who are exposed to all vicissi- tudes of weather. It may be remarked, that, in the year 1794, notwithstanding the large population of this parish, no medical man thought it worth his while to settle within its boundaries. At present, there are two surgeons and one apothecary in the village of Buckie* Surfaeey ^c, — The surfiice may be described as rather moun- tainous, with some low-lying ground of good quality and conside- rable breadth from the sea- shore to the base of the hiUs on the south. The hills, as already mentioned, are covered with heath or moss, and afford very little pasture, the soil being either hard gravel, or of a mossy character resting upon a bottom of clay very retentive of moisture. On the low grounds, part of the soil is a light loam, rich, with a clay bottom ; in another part, it is ra- ther thin, and rests on a red kind of clay formed from the debris of the old red sandstone, but at the same time is very productive. Along the sea*shore it is sandy, and covered with an immense quantity of small stones, evidently rounded by the action of the sea, which, during ages long gone past, must have flowed over this part of the country. Hydrography. — The Moray Frith bounds this parish from east to west, towards the north, for ten miles. There is nothing re- markable with regard to the nature of the water, as to colour, temperature, luminousness, saltness, or the flowing of the tides. The shore abounds with Medusae, or sea-jellies. The depth of RATHVEN. 247 water at the village of Findochtie, the property of Earl Seafield^ is 24 feet, and the breadth of the entrance into the bason, which is well protected, 270 ; thus affording sufficient water and safe an- chorage, if converted into a harbour, for ships of very considerable tonnage. This parish is intersected by several rapid running bums or streamlets, all of which have their source in the high grounds within itp bounds, and empty themselves into the sea at Portgordon, Buckie, and Gollachie. There are several medici* nal springs. One of these is situated at Burn of Oxhill, and id much resorted to by people from the inland parts of the country with their children, while labouring under hooping-cough ; but the benefit resulting from it is believed to be more imaginary than real, as change of air is always known to be of great advantage in this complaint There are also two chalybeate springs, one at Gollachie, and the other in the immediate neighbourhood of New Buckie, much frequented, particularly the latter, by people who come thither for sea* bathing, and drinking the water of this well. At Findochtie, a spring of a purgative nature, issuing from a rock considerably within flood-mark, is occasionally drunk by the inha- bitants, and those who reside in the neighbourhood. There is an abundant supply of perennial spring water, free both from the car- bonates of lime and iron. Mineralogy. — The prevailing strata along the coast bordering this parish, are rocks of the primitive Neptunian series, viz. gneiss, mica-slate, clay-slate, and schist ; and the direction of the strata is from north-east to south-west ; and the dip of the rocks !» north- west and south-east. The angle of elevation varies at different places. Adjacent to Buckie, where the rocks have been laid bare by the action of the sea, some are perceptible at an angle of about 25^, others at 90^ At the north-east part of the parish, near the burn of Cullen, the old red sandstone commences, which is in con- junction with greywacke to the eastward; and the thickness of that bed extending to the westward is very ^reat, particularly where the new red sandstone is found overlying the old red sand- stone formation. The new red sandstone appears at that point in nearly horizontal strata, and dips to the south and south-east The greywacke here, and along the coast, alternates with clay and mica-slate, which reposes on the greywacke. The bed appears to be of considerable thickness. Its direction is from north-east to south-west ; and it is the prevailing rock within the parish. But the greywacke is protruded through the clay and mica-slate 248 BANFFSHIRE. at different points along the coast, and in the interior as far to the westward as Buckie. There the clay and roica-slate alternate with thin veins of coarse limestone, till a short way to the west- ward of the town, where the greywacke and grey wacke-slate alter- nate with seams of mica-slate, and veins of limestone of a reddish colour, arising from the oxide of iron. Within the village of Buckie, there is a part of the old red sandstone formation seen re- posing on clay-slate and mica-slate, which is again reposing on greywacke. This micaceous clay-slate is of a greyish colour, and covers a great part of the interior of the parish. Towards the south, it crops out at different points, and is quarried for roofing slates by the Duke of Richmond at Tarriemount and Upper Al- dyleth, and by Sir James Gordon, Bart, on his estate of Letter- fourie. Limestone is found and wrought at Nether Buckie. At Tarwathie the red sandstone already mentioned is quarried, and used in building. Indeed this is the only quarry of the kind found in the whole county. A very pure quartzy rock is found in the Benhill, the same as at the hill of Durn, near Portsoy. None, however, of the beautifully variegated serpentine, alternating with beds of marble, talcaceous schist, and hornblende rock, as found at Portsoy, occurs here. Boulders or detached masses of granite and gneiss, intermixed with mica, having their surfaces and sharp edges smoothed down and rounded, evidently by the long-conti« nued friction of water, or action of the air, are of frequent occur- rence along the sea-shore, and the Bauds moor. These boulders are sometimes found at the distance of many hundred miles from the recks from which they have been originally detached, as is the case here, no granite appearing within the parish. These trans- portations point out the agency of currents and immense irrup- tions, of the ocean passing over the land iu particular directions, and with such impetus as to carry along these large and ponde- rous bodies. From the position of these masses, the direction of such currents can often be ascertained with great certainty. An- other most remarkable feature of this part of the country is, that the upper or vegetable soil is so densely mixed with water-worn stones, that, in many places, under a rotation of excellent crop* ping, these stones appear to form nearly a third part of the sur- face. They are chiefly of quartz, although intermixed with no- dules of lime, felspar, and mica. The feli^par, as being in com- bination with potass, is easily affected by the action of the atmo- sphere, and a considerable portion of it annually dissolved, which RATHVEN. 249 forms a very productiTe soil. The nodules or lime produce the same effect. Zoology. — The ordinary indigenous wild animals found in this parish are, the fox, the polecat, the weasel, the ermine or stoat, the black-rat, now nearly extirpated in many parts of Scotland by the brown or Norway rat, common ; the water-rat, the short-tailed iield-mouse, the common shrew, and the mole. The roe-deer is found wild in Lord SeaBeld's woods, near the manse; and the fallow- deer, the hare, the rabbit. The hedgehog, though rare in this county, was found last summer both on the farm of Rannes and in the woods at Letterfourie. The otter breeds every season among the rocks at Findochtie, and in the bogs of Rannes. Along the shore, the porpoise, the grampus, the spermaceti whale, and the seal, are frequently seen. The latter is very destructive to the stake-nets during the salmon-fishing season. Birds. — The osprey, or sea-eagle, is occasionally seen. The kite, commonly called the glead, is known to build on the lofty trees at Rannes and Cullen House. The kestrel, the goshawk, the merlin, and the sparrow-hawk, with the hen-harrier, not com- mon. The long-eared owl, the barn-owl, and the screech-owl are common. The great ash-coloured butcher-bird, though rare, has been seen in the woods of Letterfourie. The raven, the hooded- crow is very abundant, and destructive to the eggs of the partridge and pheasant ; common crow, jack-daw, and carrion-crow. The starling, the thrush or mavis, the blackbird, the missel- thrush, and the fieldfare, with its companion, the red-wing, OC"- cur here in large flocks on the approach of winter. Among the strong-billed smaller birds, we have the yellow bunting, the snow- bunting, the common bunting, and the black- headed bunting. The bullfinch, greenfinch, chaffinch, goldfinch, brown-linnet, mountain- linnet or twite, and house-sparrow are common. Among the soft, or subulated billed birds, we may enumerate the red -breast, red-start, sedge-sparrow, white-throat, pied- wag- tail, yellow-wagtail, seen on the banks of small burns ; whin-chat, stone-chat, and sky-lark, the common wren, golden crested-wren, willow-wren, common creeper, and the hedge-sparrow. The great titmouse, blue titmouse, cole-titmouse, and long-tailed tit- mouse, though rare, have been seen in the manse garden. The summer birds of passage are, the house swallow, martin, swift, generally visible from the 1st to the 12th of May; stone- curlew, landrail, cuckoo, and goat-sucker or night-jar, occasionally 250 BANFFSHIRE. seen at nightfall, flying with great rapidity round the manse and garden. Birds of Game* — The common grouse, partridge, pheasant, much on the increase, as also the wood-pigeon. The rock-pigeon is found in considerable numbers among the high rocks between the villages of Findochtie and Portnockie. GrallcB. — The heron, water-hen, woodcock, common snipe» jack-snipe, lapwing, golden-plover, ringed-plover, grey plover, sanderling^ and the oyster catcher. Aquatic Birds* — Cormorant, scart or shag, kittywake, common gull, black-backed gull, and the herring-gull. The eider-duck, velvet-duck, teal-duck, common wild-duck, and coot; The red- breasted-merganser, razor-billed-auk, puffin, little grebe, and northern diver, in severe winters. Fishes. — In the burns of Tynet, GoUaehie, and Buckie, salmon is sometimes taken, but only when there is a high flood. A con- siderable number, however, is taken in the stake-nets at Porteasy and Portgordon, on their passage to the mouth of the Spey. The common trout and the eel are the only other species found in these burns. Along the coast, the following are taken ; *viz. gowdie, haddock, cod, whiting, coal-fish, (the fry called podleys, colmeys, and sethes,) ling, tusk, halibut, erroneously called turbot; plaice, flounder, sole, sea-perch, and mackerel. The herring, most abundant in this parish some years ago ; pilchard, and sprat or garvie ; stur- geon, taken lately in a stake-net at Portgordon ; skate or flaire ; thornback, distinguished by a row of strong spines running along the back ; sea-dog, accompanying the shoals of herrings, and used as manure ; wolf-fish, sword-fish, and lump-fish, or lump-sucker, with the John Doree, taken occasionally. The lobster, and crab or parten, are abundant; and, about forty-six years ago^ the fishers on the coast entered into a contract for five years, with a London company, to fish for lobsters. The Company furnished the skiff's and tackling, and were reimbursed by instalments. They took all their lobsters at 2^. a-piece, pro* vided they measured six inches from the point of the nose to the end of the boss ; and, when under that size, two were esteemed equivalent to one. The success of the white and herring-fisheries, and the amazing quantities of lobsters caught on the coast of Caith- ness, which the company purchased at a considerably lower price, put an end to this branch of industry. RATHVEN. 251 • The oyster and mussel are not found on this coast. The lat- ter, however, is brought from the Friths of Cromarty and Dor- nock, lodged among the rocks here, and used as required for bait by the Bshermen. Botany. — In this parish, no particularly rare plants have been found. The peach-leaved bell*flower, and giant bell-flower, are seen in great beauty in the woods around CuUen House. The hemlock, foxglove, agrimony, brooklime, spotted dead nettle, sea tree-mallow, common mallow, hoary plantain, and lesser spear- wort, Dccur in the parish. Along the shore there are, sea-spurry, sandwort, common sea milk-wort, scurvy-grass, and squill. In the pleasure-grounds of CuUen House, which mostly lie in this parish, there is a great deal of very valuable wood, consisting of oak, ash, elm, beech, larch, and Scotch fir. Some of the beeches, in point of height and dimensions, may vie with the finest in Scotland. The grounds are extensive, and possess much na- tural beauty, and are intersected with many lovely walks, and kept in the highest order. The utmost attention has been paid by Sir James Gordon, and Mr Gordon of Cairnfield, in pruning and thinning their plantations ; and they have now the pleasing satis- faction of seeing their respective properties highly ornamented and improved, by a great variety of thriving forest tr^es. The grounds around their mansions are laid out with great taste, and neatly kept. IL — Civil History. Eminent Men. — The only man of learning and genius, as far as can be discovered, a native of this parish, was the celebrat- ed Dr Alexander Geddes. He was born at Pathheads, in the year 1737, and was descended from parents who had no claims or pretensions to worldly opulence or honours. His fa- ther, named also Alexander, the second of four brothers, was a small crofter on the Arradoul estate. The maiden name of his mother was Janet Mitchell ; she was a native of Nether Dalachy, in the parish of Bellie. In their religious tenets, both were Roman Catholics ; consequently, young Geddes was of the same persuasion. He was taught to read in the humble mansion of a schoolmistress, whose name was Sellar, and whose goodness of heart he was occasionally accustomed to make mention of to the latest period of his existence. Having exhausted all the 252 BANKFSHIBE. store of knowledge which Mrs Sellar could impart, Geddes was next placed under the care of a student from Aberdeen, whose name was Shearer, and whom the Laird of Arradoul had engaged to educate his two sons. In the family of this gentleman, his in- structions were gratuitous. How long he remained at Arradoul is uncertain ; but, upon leaving the laird's hospitable mausion, he was, at the iige of fourteen, removed to Scalan, a free Roman Ca- tholic seminary in the Highlands, limited to boys destined for that church, whose studies are to be completed in some foreign university. The vale in which this seminary was situated was po deeply excavated and overhung by surrounding hills, as almost to require the perpetual use of the lamp.* Having attained the age of twenty-one, he was removed from Scalan, in October 1758, to the Scotch College at Paris, where ' he remained six years ; and, although pressed to take a share in the public labours of the college, he returned, however, to Scot- land in 1764. Immediatel) after his arrival, he entered into holy orders, and was appointed to officiate at Dundee. Here he was scarcelv settled, when he received an offer to reside with the Earl of Traquair. This offer he readily accepted, and became an in- mate of his Lordship's family in May 1765. At this time he had reached his twenty-eighth year, and had resided in his Lord- ship's for more than a year, when a female relation of the Earl openly professed for him an affection which he could not return, having taken the vow of perpetual celibacy. In a sketch of this kind, it is not expected that we should trace the learned Doctor through the whole course of his eventful life. With regard to the merits of his various literary productions, we think it unneces- sary to give an opinion, farther than to state that they exhibit great proofs of talent, perseverance, and profound research ; and that there are few, if any, who will not allow that he Was an ac- complished scholar. He died at London, rather suddenly, aftier suffering excruciating torture from the nature of his disease, on the 26th February 1802, in the sixty fifth year of his age; and, at hia* own particular desire, his remains were interred in Paddington * The reader may form some idea of its dark and melancholy aspect« from the fol- lowing reply Geddes made to one of his fellow.students, who had obtained leave to ▼iiiit his friends, and who asked him if fae bad acy commands be could execute* ** Pray, be so kind,'* reph'ed Geddes, ** as to make particular inquiries after the health of the sun, and tell him 1 still hope I shall one day be able to renew the ho- nour of a personal acquaintance with him.** 4 UATHVBN. 253 Church- Yard. The late Catholic Bishop PatersoD of Edinburgh was also a native of this parish, and the son of poor, but industri- ous and honest parents. Land'owners. — The chief land-owners are, the Earl of SeaBeld, to whom belongs Rannes and Findochtie ; His* Grace the Duke of Richmond, proprietor of Couffurrach, Leitchieston, and. Burnside ; Sir James Gordon, Bart of Letterfourie and Nether Buckie ; John Gordon, Esq. of Cluny, owner of the lands of Freuchnie, part of Buckie, and Gollachie ; Adam Gordon, Esq. of Cairnfield ; and the Misses Stuart of Tannachy. Sir James Gordon, Bart, Adam Gordon of Cairnfield, and the Misses Stuart are resident John Gordon, Esq. of Cluny, resides occasionally, during the season, at Buckie Lodge ; and Dr Kyle, Catholic Bishop of Germanicia, at Presholm. Parochial Registers. — The earliest records of discipline com- mence on the 25th December 1698, and have been very regularly kept till 1736. During that period, however, they really contain nothing, in any degree, particularly interesting, except the snm- moniug delinquents before the session, who, upon cQufessing their guilt, and after severe penance in sackcloth, and many sharp re- bukes before the congregation, were restored again to communion with the church. From 1787 till the present time, these reconls have been regularly kept. Registration of marriages began at Whitsunday 1716, and that of baptisms in the same year. Great regularity has been observed in both from the above date till 1746 ; but, from this time till 1791, and even down to the present day, many Episcopalians and Roman Catholics do not register their children. No registration of deaths has ever beeu kept in the parish. Antiquities. — There are many remains of antiquity in this pa- rish, particularly of Druidical temples or cairns. The most re- markable and striking of these is one on the heights of Corriedown, called the Cove Stanes, A considerable portion of the stones of ^this cairn was employed in building the present mansion-house of Letterfourie. Mr Gordon, the father of the present proprietor, examined three of them to the foundation, and found only char- coal, and a whitish substance resembling the ashes of wood or bones. He supposed that the low grounds, in the vicinity of his bouse, had abounded in wood, as large pieces of oak and fir were dug out of the hollows now under cultivation. There is a large collection of stones on an eminence in one of Earl Seafield's en- 254 BANFFSHIRE. closures, near the farm of Woodside, south of the public road, commonly called the *< Kingfs Cairn/' Tradition has handed down that it is the grave of Indulph or Indulphus, the 77th King of Scotland, who, after obtaining a complete victory over the Danes, was unfortunately killed near this spot It is a well-known historical fact, that Indulph us's reign was much disturbed by de- scents of the Danes. There is, however, some dispute regarding the precise period when this event took place. Abercrombie says that it was in 961 ; Buchanan in 967. We agree with Aber- crombie, as Indulphus reigned from 952 to 961, and was succeed- ed by Duff, who fell by a conspiracy of his subjects in 965. The above event was distinguished by the name of the Battle of the Bauds, at that time an extensive moor, now the property of Lord Seafield. A great many small cairns are still visible on this moor, between the village of Findochtie and that part of the Bauds now planted, supposed to be the burial places of the Danes who fell in the bat^ tie with Indulphus. About seventy-five years ago, a countryman found, on the^lands of Rannes, in a tumulus or cairn which he was removing, a stone-coffin, containing human bones of a large size. *' Having obtained permission," says the late Rev. Mr Donaldson, *< to ransack this grave, I found it covered with a large stone, 4 feet long, 8 broad, and about 14 inches in depth. On removing this, we found four other stones set on their edges, which served as a coffin to part of a skull and jaw-bone, with several teeth, and some fragments of a thigh-bone. The dimensions of this coffin were 8 feet 1 inch in length, 2 feet wide, and 1 foot 10 inches deep.. There was no stone in the bottom. The bones were re- moved into a similar chest a few feet northward of this one, in the same tumulus. This last one was discovered, four or five years ago, by a man in the neighbourhood, who was removing a few more of the stones for building a house. It is of smaller dimensions than the other, and was originally covered with two stones, one of which was off. No bones were found in it There are many other cairns near this one, but none of them has been searched. They are at no great distance from the House of Rannes, on a farm lately im- proved out of moor, called Westerside. The ruins of the House of Findochtie, of an old chapel, near the farm-house of Farskane, and of some buildings on the tops of two hills, on the east and west side of the harbour of Portnockie, the former called the Green Castle, and the latter the Tronach Castle, are still to be seen ;" but by 3 RATHVEN. 255 whom they were bailt is unknown. On the moor of Rannachy, to the right, at the distance of 100 paces from the high road, is an eminence efidently artificial, called Tarrieclerack, supposed to be a burial-place* Caves. — The most remarkable of those along the coast, which are found on the property of Lord Seafield, are, l«f, Farskane's, 80 called from the proprietor having, in 1715, retired into it, along with two other gentlemen, to avoid trouble during the Earl of Marr's rebellion. In it they lived comfortably for five or six weeks, and returned to their own houses, when all apprehension of danger was past. 2dj Janet Corstair's cave, so named from a mad woman who took up her residence in it ; and, 3^, The Cross cave, so denominated from its taking a direction to the east and west, at some distance from its entrance. The extent of none of these is known. There is a well of fresh water on the north side of a green hill, surTounded by the tide, called Priest's Craig-well, betwixt Findochtie and Portnockie. Coins. — In 1805, a small square box was turned up by the plough, on the moor of Arradoul, the property of Mr Gordon of Cairnfield, containing some coins of Queen Mary, James VI., and Charles I. Several of them are in the possession of Mr Gordon and Sir James Gordon, Bart They were in a very good state of preservation. A silver handle of a sword also was found by Sir James Gordon's father, on the grounds of Letterfourie ; but the blade was completely destroyed by rust, so that no idea could be formed of its antiquity. Modem Buildings, — The chief of these are, Letterfourie, Cairn- field, Tannachy, Burnside, Buckie Lodge, the Roman Catholic chapel, and the Bishop's dwelling-house at Presholm. There are four corn-mills, besides one for grinding flour and making pot-bar« ley, and another for carding wool. There is a distillery at Gol- lachie, but it has not been in operation for a considerable time past. III. — Population. The number of souls in this parish, as returned to Dr Web- ster in 1755, was 2898. By a minute of visitation in the presby- tery records, dated at the kirk of Rathven, 29th August 1720, the population is stated at 1700 catechisable persons, and 600 Papists, by a moderate computation of those above ten years of age, by Mr Robert Gordon, the minister, in presence of the heritors. BANFF. ' R 256 BANFFSHIRE. In ]793» exclusive of that part of the east end of the parish an* iiexed to Cullen quoad sacra, the date of which annexation cannot be found out, the population was 30 19, of whom 1408 were malcdy 1411 females ; 1 766 Presbyterians, dOS Episcopalians, 950 Ro* man Catholics ; and 720 families. At the same date, the annex- ed part contained 505 persons, of whom 271 were males, 234 females ; 498 Presbyterians^ 2 Episcopalians, and 5 Roman Ca« thoUcs. Population in 1801 • > aooi 1811, . 4874 1821, . 5S64 1831, m 6484 1841, - 6826 The jetrly average of birthf for the last aeven yean^ - 126 marriages, - - - 46 deaths, as nesrlj as can be calculated, - 92 The increase of population since. 1821, riz. 1126, is altogether to be attributed to the encouragement given by Lord Seafield for the improvement of waste lands, and the flourishing state of the various fisheries, particularly of the herring-fishery ; which, how- ever, has been for several years past on the decline, within the bounds of this parish. There are two insane persons in the parish, and four fotuous. There are two blind, and two deaf or dumb. Two only of the six are supported by the session, one at Li6, 12s. and the other at L.2, 12s. per annum. Character of the People. — The fanners, whether Presbyterians, Episcopalians, or Roman Catholics, are men of plain and unaf- fected manners ; open and sincere in their intercourse with others ; friendly and obliging among themselves ; charitable to the poor in proportion to their means, and not inhospitable to strangers. Many of them are intelligent men, and by no means deficient in intellectual, moral, and religious attainments. The fishermen, as individuals, are nearly placed upon a footing of equality. Their pursuits are similar ; hence their language and dealings are almost the same. It is said, *^ that the voice of one puts all in action, and that the example of one is frequently fol- lowed by all ; and yet, what is singular, no one seems to possess a character decisive enough to take the lead, or to rise to superio- rity by the strength of genius, or the arts of address." There cannot be the slightest doubt of the truth of this statement; as I have often marked, on hearing them talking of the success of one fisherman over another, that they never would attribute this 5U0-> IIATIIVEN. 257 eess either to the siiperbrity of their neighbours' skill in fishing, or of his nets, lines or hooks, but, like all in similar circumstances who are of a superstitious turn of mind, and believe in fate, to what they called **good chance/' The boys go to sea as soon as they can be of any service to their fathers; on that account their education is much neglected, or, at least, much interrupted, so that little progress is made. At eighteen years of age they become men, and, whenever they ac- quire the share of a boat, they marry, as it is a maxim with them *^ that no man can be a fisher, and want a wife.'' They marry, therefore, at an early age, and the object of their choice is always a fisherman's daughter, who is generally from eighteen to twenty- two years of age* These women lead a most laborious life, and frequently go from ten to twenty^Gve miles into the country, with a heavy load of fish* They seldom receive money for this fish, but take ia exchange meal, barley, butter, and cheese. They assist in all the labour connected with the boats on shore, and show great dexterity in baiting the hooks and arranging the lines. When stormy weather prevents the boats from fishing, the men are employed in mending their lines and nets, or in making new ones. They are stout, well-formed, of good stature, capable of undergoing great fatigue, and are the most expert and intrepid seamen in her Majesty's dominions. The women are, in many instances, handsome, good looking, and the very picture of health. Many of the fishermen are sober, industrious, and well-behaved men, and have laid up considerable savings. Others are thought- less, and too frequently spend foolishly what they have earned with so much danger and hardship. Every thing in their power has been done by the session to pro- mote temperance at marriages, baptisms, and funerals. Previous to a marriage taking place, the session exacts a pledge of half a guinea from the parties that there will be no rioting or fighting. If there is» the pledge is forfeited to the poor ; if it turns out otherwise, it is returned on the following Sabbath, provided the elder of the district certify the same. The fishermen generally are a sober, hard-working race of men, and those who act with common pru« dence enjoy all the comforts of life in a reasonable degree. la proof of this, the industrious and saving have good houses^ mostly s}ated» and well furnished, consistmg of two or three apartments. The women, some years ago, went to church bare-headed, but now they put on white muslin caps, or straw bonnets, with red cloaks or 258 BANFFSHIRE. tartan scarfs. Both men and women dress well on holidays, and, with very few exceptions, are seldom absent from public worship. IV. — Industry. Agricultwral and Rural Economy, — This parish, as already stat* ed, contains 27,000 Scotch acres, or 38,750 imperial. Number cultivated or occasionally in tillage, 8,4^ meadow and pasture, • 497 capable of improvement, • , 560 incapable o\ improvement, . 12.748 Under wooI1 beir of Rathven,— iig ohal* ders, iz bollis of roeiU for Ettilstoun. Providing always he intist diligentlie in the ministrie, and als cause his kirk quhar he mnkis not eontinuall residence to be luffi- ciently serrit, and that be charge the kirk with na farther stipend." RATHVEN« 265 ID the Tillage of Easter Buckie. It was built in the year 1835, chiefly by subscription, and cost the sum of L.800. It is free of debt* The clergyman ivas ordained to this chargn in the month of July 1837, and has a bond for L.80 per annum as stipend. This chapel contains 800 hearers. There are no free sittings, provided they possibly can be let. The highest charge is 3s. 6d. and the lo\ivest Is. No part of the weekly collections has hitherto gone to the support of the |>oor. The heritors and kirk-session are now, however, entitled to the half of these col- lections, according to the decision given by the Coart of Ses- sion in the cau^ of the heritors against the managers of the Cha- pel of Ease in Brechin. The population assigned is upwards of 2000, which comprehends the whole of the village of Buckie, and a small portion of the landward part lying towards the south. Number of communicants, 400 ; unlet seats, 300. The third chapel in connection with the Established Church is situated at the village of Portnockie. It was finished and opened for public worship some time ago. It contains 450 sitters. The whole seats are already let, and the members of Presbytery have agreed to preach in rotation weekly till such time as a clergyman be ordained. It is .called Seafield Church, and, when formed into a parish, will comprehend the part of this parish attached quoad sacra to Cullen, and a few families residing in the immediate neigh- bourhood of Portnockie. It was built by subscription, and cost L.400, of which the Honourable Colonel Grant, now sixth Earl of Seafield, contributed L.100. * There are two Episcopal chapels,— one at Arradoul, and an- other in Buckie. The one at Arradoul was built about fifty-four years ago, and contains 211 sittings, of which 139 are let at 3s. 6d« each. The other, in Buckie, was purchased about a year ago from the Methodists, and contains 200 sittings. There are two Roman Catholic chapels in this parish, one of which is situated at Presholm, and the other at Buckie. The one at Presholm was built in 1788, and contains 800 sitters ; the other, which was lately fitted up, holds 400. The attendance at each chapel averages 400. The amount of Catholic population is 1500. The bishop resides at Presholm, and has three priests who ofiiciate and live with him there, whose incomes depend solely upon what the bishop may give them. The collections at both chapels are given to the poor of their own persuasion. 266 BANPFSHIRS. Diyine senrice at the Established Church is well attended. The number of all ages belonging to the parish church is 1820. Ave- rage number of communicants, 700. The amount of extraordinary collections, during the last five years, for charitable purposes, was L.20, 10s. lO^d. One of these collections is annually made in behalf of the Aberdeen Infirmary. Education. — The number of schools in the parish is fourteen. Six of these are endowed, and the other eight are supported by fees. The master of the parochial school has a salary of L.d2, Is. 6d., with the legal accommodation, and an annual sum from the Dick Bequest of L.2d. The branches of instruction are, reading, writ- ing, arithmetic, English grammar, geography, Latin, and the ele- ments of Greek when required. The fees charged for reading English are 2s. per quarter; for arithmetic and writing, 2s. 6d.; English grammar and geography, 3s. 6d. ; for Greek or Latin, 5s. Average number of scholars during the year, 80. He is not ses- sion-clerk, consequently he has no emoluments from that office- Amount of school fees, L. 23^ making in whole about Lb 80 an- nually. The school is ably taught. The Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge has en- dowed two schools in this parish, one at Buckie, a most im- portant station, and the other at the village of Couffuracb, in the immediate neighbourhood of the Enzie chapel. * The number of scholars, according to the last report^ was 46. At Coufiurach, the master has a free dwelling-house and school- room from His Grace the Duke of Richmond, and L. 1 5 of sa- lary from the society above-mentioned. He teaches only the common branches of education. Number of scholars, 31. An efficient and active teacher is much wanted at this station. There is another school at Port- Gordon in this district. The Duke of Richmond pays the teacher a salary of L.15, and allows him a free house and school-room. This is also an important station, and the school is most successfully conducted. The number attend- ing is 90. * The sohool in Buckie has been withdrawn 'by the Society, on the ground, that the school- house has been allowed to fiill into decay. This is deeply to be regretted, because Buckie, from its great population, is one of the most important stations in the north of Scotland. It is therefore to be hoped, that a commodious house will be speedily provided by the proprietor, and that a zealous and efficient teacher wiU be forthwith appointed. RATH YEN. 26 T Besides the school endowed by this Society, there is another in Buckie, kept by a woman, who teaches reading, along with sewing and knitting, to little girls. She receives a salary of L.4 ; num- ber of scholars, 80. There is another school, for the same pur- pose, taught by a female at Findochtie. She receives L.1, Is* annually from Earl Seafield, and has a free house. Their charges are a mere trifle per month. In the populous village of Portnoc- kie, the Noble proprietor, the Earl of Seafield, has built an ex* cellent school-house, and gives L.10 annually to the teacher, who is allowed to charge the same fees as at the parish school. It is numerously attended, and well taught by the present master. There are also five Sabbath schools in the parish, attended by. about 300 scholars. In an extensive parish of this kind, it cannot be very easily as- certained what number of the young, betwixt six and fifteen years of age, cannot read or write. There are few, if any, who are not able to read ; but a considerable number cannot write. The people, in general, are alive to the benefits of education ; but many of the poorer classes, particularly the more indigent of the fishermen, are compelled to take their children from school as soon as they are able to do any thing for their own support. There are no parts of the parish so distant from some one of the schools, as to prevent attendance. There can scarcely be a doubt, that, in general, a visible change in the conduct and morals of the people has taken place, since the facilities of education were increased, though there is still great room for farther improvement. Library, — A public library was instituted some years ago in the village, or kirk-town of Rathven. It contains a considerable number of valuable works, and is supported by a quarterly con* tribution. Char itaiU Institutions, — Bede-House. — The origin of this. in- stitution is mentioned by Spottiswood in his Account of Religious Houses in Scotland, and is as follows : ^^ Rothsan, John Bisset gives to God, and the Church of St Peter's of Rothsan, for sus- taining seven leprous persons, the patronage of the Kirk of Kyl- talargy, to pray for the souls of William and Alexander, Kings of Scotland, and souls of his ancestors and successors, about 1226/'* * <* Donatio Johaonis Byaeth cle jure patronatus ecclesie de Kyltargy. <* Omnibus has literai Tisuria yel audituris Johannes Byseth, eternam in Domino 26S BANPF8HIRE. The Rede House is still standing in the village of RatbTen, and was Tery lately repaired ; and two of the six Bede men, who are still maintained on the establishment, at present live in this house* When a vacancy occurs, the kirk-session merely recomooend, aa the appointment is invested in the Earl of SeafieM, who is pro* prietor of the lands of Rannes, and their yearly income is as fol- lows: From the lands of Rannes, each bedeman has half an acre ef good croft land during his life, and one boll of oatmeal annually; from the lands of Fiudochtie, 88. 1^.; and, from John Gordon, Esq. of Cluny, as proprietor of the lands of Freuchnie, which formerly formed part of the estate of Rannes, Is. 4|d. making in whole, 9s. 6d. The half acre, when let, which they are allowed to do, brings L.I, Is. per annum. Poor and Parochial /^undlf.'— The number at present on the poor's roll is 69, besides many others who occasionally receive re- lief. There are also two fatuous persons supported from the session funds, one at 9s. 6d. per week, and the other at 1^ Hi- therto no assessment has been made; but in a very short time, it must become unavoidable. The present funds for the support of the poor are the ordinary weekly collections at the church doors, which, for the last eight , years, have averaged L.44, 4s. ll|d. ; irom interest of money vested with the Honourable Colonel Grant, L*t2, 10s. ; from fines last year, now not exacted, Li22, 1 Is.; from mortcloth, h,% 6s.; ■a1utem« univerriute vestre dgnifico me caritatU intuitu et pro anima Domini, Wil- \t\mi Regis Scotiep et pro salute Domini mel Alexandri nobilis regis, nee non et pro salute animarum antecessorum et sucoessonun roeorum dedlMe, conoettisae ei bac presenti carta mea confirroasse Deo et ecclesie Sancti Petri de Rothfiin ad sua- tentationem leprosonim ibidem Deo serrientium jus patronatus et quiequid habui in donatlone ecclesie de Kyltalargy quantum ad meam pertinet donationem, babeQ« dam et possidendam sibi, et successoribus suis de me et heredibui meis adeo libere quiete plenarie et bonorifice in liberam puram et perpetuam eleemosinam ; sicut ali- qua ecclesia ab aliquo milite Tel barone in regno Scotie liberius, quietius, pleoiua, et bonorificentlus tenetur ct poasidetur. Preterea dedi domui tantum de rebus meis cC averiis unde placati sunt et iidcliter, mihi et heredibua meis promiserunt et per pupplicum et solempne instrumentum se crf^ligaverunt, quod unum oapellanum ibi- dem Deo sacra ministmntem et septem leprosos et unum famulum illis senrientem pro redemptiooe peccatonim suorum in perpetuum suatenebant, ao illia singulis in neoessariis competenter ministrabunt. Cum autem aliquem illorum infermiorum meri contigcrit, vel de domo predicta recesserit ; donee predictus numenis complea- tur per roe vd beredes meos alius prescrutabitur et inatitnetur. Qjuod* ut ratum at firmum in perpetuum babeatur presens scriptunik cum sigillo meo dignum duzi ro- borandum. His tcatibus, domino Andrea episcopo, P. decano, H. archodiacano MorsTiensi, H. decano Rossensi vicario MoraTienso, lliomA bostiano [Ticario] d* Inuernjs, W. Prath [vicario] de Inuemarrin, R. [vicario] de Forays, Vf. fratre meo, U. Corbeth, Sjmone vicario de Dulbathlacb, H. cappellano meo, qui bane cartam scripsit Wadeno seutifero meo et multis aliis, Tabula, p. vii. fol. 5&, Cbar- tukrj of Moray. Actum anno gratia, o^cc'xxvi* mense Junie, die mensis ijus- dem dectmo nono apud Inuernys." 4 RATHVEN. 269 fFom dues of proclamation, L.2» 12s. 6d. Total, L.74y 4s. 5|d. Last year« howerer, the sum of L.96, 14s. 5d. was disbursed, which iocluded expenses of erery kind; but, in order to makeup this amount, the session were under the necessity of taking up the remainder of the money lodged with Earl SeaBeld.* The poor, according to their necessities, receive from 5s. to 7s. per quarter. In addition to this. Lord Sea6eld gives annually a certain quanti* ty of meal to those on the poor's roll who reside upon the lands of Findochtie and Porteasy. This part of the country was wont to be greatly infested with vagrants; but the establishment of the rural police in this and the neighbouring counties has completely suppressed promiscuous begging, and conferred a great boon on the district In a poor stnd populous parish such as this, we have much plea- sure in stating, that the poor, in most cases,, manifest no particu- lar disposition to seek parochial relief, unless forced by necessity alone, or unexpected bereavement ; manv melancholy and heart- rending cases of which too frequently occur among the fishermen* Inns or Jlehouses.'-^ln the village of Buckie there are ten li- censed houses for retailing ardent spirits; in Porteasy, two; in Findochtie, four; in Portnockie, four; in Portgordon, six; two by the turnpike road ; two in the village of Rathven ; making in whole 30, — a number by for too great, and which must tend, and that in no ordinary degree, both to impoverish and demoralize the people, particularly the fishermen. Fuel. — The principal fuel used is peat, or dried turf. It is procured at a great distance from the different villages, conse- quently it is very expensive. A small cart-load costs from Is. to Is. 6d. According to the last report of this parish, it is stated, ** that, when the load is sold at Is., the consumer pays at the rate of a halfpenny for four peats and one turf." Coals are sold at Buckie, and Portgordon, about Is. 6d. per imperial barrel, ten of which make a good cart-load, weighing nearly 18 cwt. Miscellaneous Observations. The valued rental of this parish in 1792, was from L.4000 to L. 5000 Sterling ; in 1S13, it was assessed at L.7dd6. Since the * Since the above was written the whole funds have been ezhaustedr so that the kirk-session found themselves under the necessity of calling a meeting of heritors, to take immediate steps to provide for the wanu of the poor. They met accordingly, and assessed themselves for the ensuing year to the amount of L.95 Sterling. 270 BANFFSHIRE. last Statistical report was published, immense impro?ements have taken place. Many hundred acres of moor-ground have been reclaimed. The Earl of Seafield gives a bounty of L.5 for each acre thus improved. On the extensive moor grounds lying on the north and south sides of the turnpike road lead- ing from Cullen to a little westward of Rannacbie, from the encouragement thus given, the appearance of the face of the land has been most completely changed : and, in addition to this, many comfortable and commodious houses have been built, which, with their neat enclosures, add very much to the beauty of the sur- rounding country. By the premium thus offered, many industri- ous and enterprising poor people obtain a decent and respectable subsistence. The improvers, besides receiving the L.6 for each acre reclaimed, possess it rent free for five years ; aft^r that period they pay a rent according to the quality of the ground improved. Prejudices in favour of old practices are speedily dying away ; and every intelligent and cautious man is anxiously looking around him to discover what is most conducive to his own interest. Great im- provements^ have been made in agriculture, particularly in drain- ing and turnip-husbandry. Thrashing-mills have been erected wherever the farms are of any considerable extent, several of which are driven by water. Much corn is still thrashed with flails* The people are, in every respect, improved, both as to intelligence, food, clothing, and lodging. The roads and bridges are kept in good order, affording an easy aud ready access to markets, and every part of the surrounding country. March 1842. PARISH OF GAMRIE.* PUES]B(YT£RT OF TURRIFF^ SYNOD OF ABBRDEEK. THE REV. THOMAS WILSON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The parish of Gamrie, or, as it has been uamed at different times, Gamery^ Ghaemrtey or Gemrie, according to ge- nerally received tradition, derives it^ name from a Gaelic wordy Kemriej — signifying a rurMtng leap or running Jight^ — on account of a bloody engagement with the Danes on the spot where the old church now stands. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is about 10 miles long from east to west, and from 3 to 4 broad. It is bounded on the north by the Moray Frith ; on the east, by the brook or burn of Nethermill, which separates it from Aberdour ; on the south, by Kiug*^ dward ; and on the west, by King- Edward, Alvah, and the river Doveran, which separates it from Banff. Topographical Appearances, — The surface of the parish is ex- ceedingly diversified by hills, glens, and precipices. This appears to be occasioned by the singular nature of the sea-coast, which is skirted by a narrow ledge of stupendous rocks, running the whole length of the parish, and of the eastern adjoining one of Aberdour, in some places perpendicular towards the sea to the height of 600 feet, and in all precipitous. ^ The bay of Gamrie is formed by the jutting out into the sea of two headlands, Gamrie-head and Troup- head, leaving between them a large open bay, with fine anchorage ground for vessels of any size. The view of the coast from sea, outside the bay, is much admired. At the bottom of the bay, the rocks, which are steep and rugged on either side, retire a little, leaving room for the village of Gardenstown, and no more ; and then they rise with just as much bend from the perpendicular as allows mould to lie upon them, which is closely covered with green grass, except here and there a winding footpath like a staircase, on * Drawn up by Mr Alexander Whyte, Parochial Schoolmaster of Gamrie. BANFF. S 272 RANFFSHIKE. which few can venture without fear and trembling, except the ua* tives. From the tops of these braes, as they are called, one could ahnost fancy he might peep down the chimneys of (he houses ; and so abrupt is the rising of the ground in some places, that one house of three stories has them all ground floors, one entrance being at the front, another at the back, and the third at an end. On the east side of the bay, the little fishing village of Crovie lies about a mile from Gardenstown, with the one gable-end of the houses to the sea, and the other to the land, and this last is bored, as it were, into the bank, like a brood of young sea-fowl, nestling with their heads under the dams ; and nearly at the same dis~ tance on the west side, stands the old church and church-yard, on a ledge of the hill's brow ; which one would think in equal danger of being smothered by the hill hanging over it, and of being under«- mined by the sea below. From the bay of Gamrie alone of all the coast, except at the western extremity, before the high rocks commence, the land rises gradually, that is, from the top of the braes, with more or less ac- clivity, for upwards of a mile into the interior. The most singu- lar appearance of all the other coast is, that it is not the termina<- tion of higher lands from the interior, but that it slopes down from the sea towards the south, sometimes immediately, but generally afjter a few furlongs of plain on the top, and forms glens parallel with the shore, which are scarcely less admired than the shore it- self, for their rich verdure and picturesque scenery. The rocks themselves, or narrow hills between these glens and the sea, are generally covered at their tops with heath ; and to a person stand- ing on their highest eminences, and surveying the wide extending plains, woods, and mountain-tops southward and westward, and the threatening ocean north, the reflection can hardly fail of of- fering itself, that these strong barriers of the mighty deep have been placed before its proud waves by the hand of Omnipotence, as a memento of bis resistless fiat, '^ Hitherto shalt thou comey and no further.^' Another circumstance that diversifies much the appearance of the parish is, that the rocks on the coast are not carried wholly in a continuous chain from end to end, but are broken in upon with chasms or cross dens to their very bottoms, appearing as if the rocks had been rent asunder by some great convulsion. In tlie zigzag projections of the opposite sides of these cross dens, each protuberance of the one corresponds with a like opening of the GAM RIB. 273 Other* From this last appearance some think that these gulleys have been formed gradually during the lapse of ages, by the action of water washing away the soft earth, and leaving the hard rock standing, first abrupt, and afterwards sloped by the mouldering away of the sharp edges ; but the general belief is, that the glens were formed at once by the flood, when the windows of heaven were opened, and the fountains of the great deep were broken up. There are four of these dens, or great openings in the rocks, which serve as outlets for the water of the interior, and which, branching off, or widening as they retire from the sea, become straths or val- leys. The first to the westward is called Oldhaven, between the lands of CuUen and Melrose ; the second, and principal one, east of the old church, called the Den of Afforsk ; the third, at the fishing village of Crovie ; and the fourth at Cullycan, near Trouphouse. Nothing can be more lovely and romantic than the scenery of these passes or ravines, in their approach to the sea. A short description of the one below the old church may be inte- resting, as it is the deepest of the whole, and the richest in natu- ral scenery. The best view of the den is from a ledge or table of rock about half way down the point of the Rin of Afforsk, a steep acclivity in the form of a wedge which separates the ravine into two, and where the two bums meet at the bottom. There is thence a view of the higher part above the church, covered with heath, furze, and occasional bushes of rasp and whortleberries (blaeberries) in the more sheltered spots; and below, of the beau- tiful deep-winding valley or ravine, with the clear brook at the bottom, gurgling through its numerous sinuosities, overhung some- times with the naked rock standing in single gray buttresses, like fragments of an old castle, — and then sparkling up to the steep banks which rise high on either side, exhibiting all the shades of green according to their position, with here and there a brake of thorns, well-peopled with thrushes, blackbirds, linnets, and other songsters, which enliven the solitude with their music. The point of the Rin below, and all the western valley above it, as well as that on the east side, is loaded with a profusion of herbage, and affords the best tield for botany in the parish. Even one who is no bo- tanist cannot help admiring the richness and variety of herbage and gaudy wild flowers in this locality. The rocky places are throughout ornamented at the bottom with wild geraniums, cranes* bills, foxglove, primroses, hawthorn, wild-roses of different colours, and other indigenous flowers of the season ; while the modest wild 274 BANFFSHIRE. Strawberry may be seen blushing in the crevices, and the green ivy insinuating itself into every chink, and clinnbing up the shelv* iiig sides. Caves. — As naight be supposed, amongst such gigantic maases of rock ', there are several caves along this coast ; and among others of inferior note, two in the neighbourhood of Troup deserve par* ticular notice. The first is about 50 fathoms deep, 60 long, and 40 broad, from which there is a subterraneous passage to the sea, about 80 yards long, through which the waves are driven with great violence in a northern storm, and occasion a smoke to ascend from the den. Hence it has got the name of Hell's lum. The other is a subterranean passage through a penin-* sula of about 150 yards long from sea to sea, through which a man can with difficulty creep. At the north end of this narrow passage, is a cave about 20 feet high, 30 broad, and 150 long, containing not less than 90,000 cubic feet. The whole is sup- ported by immense columns of rocks, exceedingly grand, and has a wonderfully fine effect,' after a person has crept through the nar- row passage. This place is called the Needle's Eye. Meteorology. — The climate may be considered comparatively dry and healthy. The temperature varies greatly in different parts of the parish, the high lands being cold and the valleys warm. It in general may be considered colder than the interior, owing part- ly to the elevation of the land, and partly to the prevalence of north winds and storms from the German Ocean. Less snow lies, however, than in the interior, owing to the exposure to sea breezes. The warmest and earliest part of the parish is the eastern or Troup district, which has the double advantage of a south exposure, and of shelter from the north blast by the high rocks of Troup head. Hydrography. — On the sea coast in the neighbourhood of Mac* duff, is a pretty good mineral spring, called the Well of Tarlain, which has been resorted to for many years by invalids, both for the benefit of the waters and for sea-bathing; and the Earl of Fife, whose philanthropy and attention to the comforts of all with- in his reach, are proverbial, has been at considerable expense in making roads to it, and keeping the place neat and commodious for visitors. There are minerals also of the same kind at Melrose, near the shore of Old Haven. * In the hill of Troup, on nearly the highest ground in the pa- rish, there is a very small lake called the Standard loch, formed G AMR IF. 27') t>y hillocks surrounding a hollow, in which there seems to be a spring, as the loch never dries. It is the nightly resort of wild- geese, early in the spring, which, however, leave it before the hatching season. There are several brooks or burns in the parish, and in general it is well supplied with water. The burn of the Tore, or Nether mill, (the name of the place at its entrance into the sea,) running northward, at the bottom of a deep wooded glen, separates the pa- rish from that of Aberdour, about three or four miles, and is also the boundary between the counties of Banff and Aberdeen. The same boundary is then continued by the burn of Logie, which has its source near the former, and runs in a contrary direction, se- parating Gamrie from the parish of King Edward for several miles, till it is joined by the burn of Minnonie on Pitgair. There is something worth observing in the natural history of this last burn. The deep ravine, already described, below the old church, rises with a steep acclivity of ground for nearly a mile, preserving about the same width and depth, to the highest ground on the farm of Afforsk. The den then continues a dead level for perhaps one hundred yards or more, in a peat bog at the bottom, while the sides are covered with furze, heath, and grass. The water there sepa- rates, going the one part north, to the sea at Gamrie bay, and the other commencing a circuitous journey southward. After receiv- ing contributions from a number of cross rills for about two miles, till it becomes strong enough to turn a mill at Minnonie, it soon after joins the burn of Logie, and, going southward and then west- ward, past the church of King Edward, it joins the Doveran, runs in it northward, through the parishes of King Edward, Alvah, and Banff, till it meets again its old mother Gamrie, who, politely ten- dering her left arm, conducts it to the sea. The whole revoUu tion from the den of Afforsk cannot be less than sixteen or eighteen miles, while its twin brother has a short merry race among stones, rocks, shrubs, and flowers, of less than one mile. There is a similar division of the water of Troup in the east, which, rising on the farm of Northfield, runs parallel with the coast, the one part eastward into the harbour of Cullycan, and the other westward into the shore of Crovie. A like division also takes place westward of the old church, when one part runs east, into the den of Afforsk, and the other west, parallel with the rocks to the bay of Old Haven. Near its termination, viz. at the mill of Melrose, there is a steep and beautiful waterfall, that turns two 276 BANFFSHIRE. water-wheeis, the one above the other, on the different floors of the same bouse. The one for a nieal*mill, and also a saw mill, and the other for a flour or barley-mill. Another burn comes into the sea at Old Haven, with a northerly course. It rises about the Longman hill, and in its difierent branches, with the help of dams, is compelled to thrash the corn of several farmers, in its short course of some two miles. A singular proof of the he^ht of land in Gamrie is, that not a drop of water comes into it from any other parish ; the whole rises in itself. Geology and Mi'neralogy, — For interesting details respecting the geology of the parish, we refer to the following : Professor Sedg- wick and Mr Murchison's papers, Qeolog. Soc Trans. 1827-8. Mr Prestwick's papei^ on part of the Banffshire coast, including Gamrie, ib. : Poissons Fossils from M. Agassiz. : Prize Essay by Mr Cunninghame, Highland Soc. Trans. 1840. An excellent section of the pmrish is presented along the shore of the Moray Frith from the mouth of the Doveran eastward to the mouth of the bum of Tore, of Troup, a distance of ten miles. * * * The section is particularly instructive, as it displays all the rocks known to occur in the parish, and as nearly as possible in the pro- portions occupied by them in the horizontal section of the plane. I'he principal rock in the parish has been generally believed to belong to the grey wacke group, at least iProfessor Jameson so con- siders it. Sedgwick and Murchsion give no opinion, while Mr Prestwick seems rather inclined to refer it to the primary slates. The rock consists of alternate layers of grey wacke, grey wacke slate, clay-slate very much broken up and contorted, lying generally at high angles, often vertical, and frequently traversed by quartz veins of inconsiderable thickness. The general direction or stroke of the beds is north by east, the dip is sometimes eastward and sometimes westward ; various artificial lines present themselves* The clayslate of one locality, Melrose, was formerly wrought as a coarse roofing-slate and slabstone. These, however, are now superseded by the Foudland and Easdale primary slate. The greywacke is employed as a building stone ; its basis is generally highly stiicious, and the enclosed fragments are quartz and fels- spar, with occasional pieces of clay -slate. Scarcely any other im- bedded minerals occur. No subordinate calcareous layers occur .within the range. In a single locality, the Longmanhill, one and a-half miles south-west of the coast, there appears an upshot of granite, agreeing perfectly in Hthological characters with that of GAMRIE. 277 Aberdeen. This granite is occasionally worked, but not hitherto to any great depth ; neither have the workings afforded any in- formation respecting the changes produced by it upon the strati- fied rocks through which it breaks. In the eastern paK of the lo- cal section are found sandstone, conglomerate, and shales of the old red sandstone. These rest unconformably on the upturned edges of the slates, but faults and dislocations are so numerous as render it almost impossible to determine the exact order of succes- sion of the sandstone and conglomerates. On the farm of Findon, the Gamrie fish-bed crops out in two ravines. Prestwick's description of the locality is in the main cor«- rect. The chief organic remains are contained in calcareous no- dules. They are principally of fish, belonging to Agassiz's divi- sion, Ganoids ; and many of the species are described and figured in his Poissons Fossils, while several species subsequently dis- covered remain undescribed. Vegetable remains, also undescrib- ed, have been found, both in the nodules and imbedding. The Gamrie fossils are, for the most part, identical with those occurring in the Caithness and Pomona schists, and in the nodules and limestone found at Cromarty and various parts of Morayshire. In the upper alluvial layers shells occur, but, so far as has yet been ascertaiued, similar to those existing on the coast at present. The soil of that part of the parish which rests on the sandstone and conglomerate is more fertile than that which rests on the slates, and the springs indicate a greater amount of calcareous matter. Zooloffy. ^-There was lately a goodly show of pheasants in the Troup plantations ; but they have been greatly thinned of late years by vermin in the unprotected state of the woods. Active means are now employed against their enemies, and it is likely these elegant inhabitants of the woods will soon multiply again. But what distinguishes the ornithology of this parish from every other in the county is the annual migration of sea-fowl to it, for the purpose of hatching and rearing their young. The following account of these birds, taken from the Magazine of Natural His- tory, is by a gentleman who carefully visits them, for the purpose of ascertaining their habits, generally once a year. " The rocks of Gamrie are annually resorted to by immense numbers of those birds which are properly denominated sea-fowl, and it is remarkable that the various tribes of which the general body is composed, are most punctual with regard to the particular 2t8 BANFFSHIRE. period at which they res|)ectively and yearly return from the cold regions of the north, for the important and pleasing purposes of incubation, *^ The varieties which appear in greatest numbers are the kit- tiwake (provincially kittie), the razor-bill auk (provincially couK ter), the guillemot (provincially queet), and, lastly, the puffin (provincially Tammy Norrie). To a stranger who visits, for the first time, the scene of their vernal abode, the spectacle presented is striking and interesting in no ordinary degree. On various por* tions of the immense rocks, which rise in sublime magnificence before him, sit thousands and tens of thousands of the birds to which we are now directing attention. And it is curious to ob- serve the regularity with which the different species attach them- selves to the places most suited to their various wants and capa* cities. The kittiwakes and guillemots inhabit the firmest and most precipitous of the rocks, on the ledges of which they form their nests. These ledges, when viewed from below, appear to the spec- tator as scarcely presenting an inch breadth of surface, and yet the birds contrive to form their nests, which, in the case of the kitti- wake, is done with grass, and to hatch their young in this seem* ingly impracticable situation ; although it sometimes, indeed, hap« pens, that, on being suddenly startled, their eggs tumble into the sea. Although associated together, however, no actual intermix- ture takes place between the two species, for they have each their own particular ledges on which they sit, drawn up like regiments of soldiers in the most imperturbable manner; and, if startled by more than ordinary alarm from their nests, they nevertheless return af- ter a single evolution in the air, to the important duties from vfhicki they had been with difiicuity aroused. The two species are easily distinguishable. The kittiwake is at once conspicuous by its snow-white head and breast, its yellowish bill, and its pearly blue mantle ; while the guillemot is recognized by its upright figure, the legs being placed veVy far back, as is the case with most sea- fowl, and by the great portion of brownish sleek black with which its plumage is diversified. * * On a promontory immediately adjoining, and composed of softer materials, are assembled the puffins, or, in the language of this part of the country, the Tammy Norries, which, laying their eggs in holes burrowed inthe earth, cannot, of course, take up their abode on the hard ledges occupied by the birds whose position we have already described. In the same manner, the razor-bills, although associated with the guille** GAMRIK. S79 ihots, occupy in general a separate and somewhat soft and perfo- rated part of these enormous precipices, which, in the busy season of spring, teem with life in all directions. These birds (the razor- bills) very much resemble the guillemots in appearance, especially when seen at a distance on wing. They may, however, on a nearer approach, be distinguished from the latter by the broad form of their bills, and by the superior length of their wings, which are, moreover, marked by a conspicuous streak of white along their outward extremity. Some of this enormous body of sea-fowl (pro- bably males) are constantly in motion, either gracefully and lightly swimming about in detached groups on the sea, or, by their circu- lar evolutions in the air, indicating to the yet distant visitor the particular rock where he may hope to encounter them in congre- gated thousands. And, on a fine day, and under the mild influ- ence of a vernal and unclouded sun, the scene is particularly beautiful. The ocean lies tranquil, and stretched out before the spectator like an immense sheet of glass, smiling in its soft and azure beauty, while over its surface the kittiwake, the guillemot, the razor-bill, and the puffin, conspicuous by the brilliant orange and scarlet of its bill and legs, are beheld wheeling with rapid wing in endless and varying directions. On firing a gun, the effect is even startling. The air is immediately darkened with multitudes which are aroused by the report ; the ear is stunned by the varied and discordant sounds which arise. The piercing (wailing) note of the kittiwake, from which its name is derived, the shrill cry of the Tammy Norrie, and the hoarse burst of the guillemot, resem- bling, as it were, the laugh of some demon, in mockery of the in- trusion of man amid these majestic scenes of nature. All these combined, and mingled occasionally with the harsh scream of the cormorant, are heard above the roar of the ocean, which breaks at the foot of these tremendous and gigantic precipices." Ichthyology. — The river Doveran, which discharges itself into the sea between this parish and that of Banff, contains salmon, trout, and the other common varieties of river fishes. The salmon caught in the river and adjoining bay, and which are cured at Macduff, and prepared for the London market, are let in lease by the proprietor, the Earl of Fife, for a rent of about L.2000 per annum. The river and its tributary streams yield also excellent ^port to the angler, and are much resorted to in that way. But the sea is the great source of revenue to this parish, in the way of fishing, regarding both the amount of value derived from 290 BANTFSHrUE. it, and the number of hands employekl and maintained at the work. A Tariety of kinds of fish are caught on this coast, such as ling, cod, haddocks, whiting, turbot, skate, &c., yielding a supply to the interior, for a considerable number of miles, of wholesome and comparatively cheap food ; leaving also a large surplus to be either pickled or dried, and carried to the friths of Forth, Clyde, and Tay for sale. Shell-Fish. — The rocky coast about Gamrie abounds in shell- fish. Those used as an article of food are crabs (provincially partons) and lobsters. The former are plentifully used in the neighbourhood, particularly the claws. Tha lobster, however, is the favourite shell-fish, and besides those used in the neighbour- ing district, towns, and villages, they have been taken to the Lon- don market of late years, by smacks, which come round for them periodically. They are sold at home at 6d. 8d. or Is. each, and very large ones at Is. 6d. Botany. — The great variety of soil and situation occurring in the parish ; the precipitous cliffs on the coast ; and, above all, the deep ravines cut in the sandstone and conglomerate, and the kindly soil afforded by the decomposition of the slate, clays, and conglomerates, — indicate an extensive and peculiar flora ; and, had the parish possessed a careful resident observer, there cannot be a doubt that his results would do more than verify these anticipa- tions. We have received the following account from a gentleman (John Sheir, Esq. Professor of Agriculture, Marischal College, Aberdeen), well acquainted with the botany of the north of Scot- land, and who has paid frequent visits to this locality during the last fifteen years : " No satisfactory account of the botany of a parish can be given, except by a resident observer. I have care- fully examined the notes I took, and the specimens preserved du- ring my frequent excursions to your very interesting locality ; and though the following may not afford you all the information you require, I trust the principal points have not been overlooked. 1«^, Plants usually found inland, and at a considerable elevation in mountainous districts, but occurring in Gramrie, on the coast, and but a few yards above the sea level. § Saxifraga oppositijblia^ \Saxifraga hypnoideSj *Rhodiola rosea. 2d^ Hitherto held peculiar to the west coast, found abundantly in Orkney and Caithness, and very rarely in four localities in the east coast, but occurring abundantly in this parish, along the tops of the cliffs, §Scilla vsrua. GAMRIE. 281 d II cated men, . ) Retailers, handicraftsmen, as mas- 7 191 ters and workmen, y Labourers not agricultural, 134 AH other males, as pensioners, re- ) at- tired tradesmen, disabled, Sic. ) The number of illegitimate births in the parish, 12 annually, at an average. There are in the parish 2 insane persons, 4 fatuous, 4 blind. IV. — Industry. Agriculture and Rural Economy. — Waste land has been im. proved of late years to a very considerable extent, and its improve* inent, in most cases, has yielded ample remuneration for expense and labour. These improvements, together with the superior mode of cultivating land now in use, have altogether more than doubled the produce of the soil in this parish since 1790. There GAxMRIB. 287 remains yet a large proportion of waste ground that might be brought under cultivation with advantage. The extent of the Troup estate, according to a late survey, when Induced from Scots to imperial acres, is as follows : — Imp. acres arable Do. pasture Do. wood or Roads, stanotM or cultivated. or waste. planting. of houses, &c. Troup estate, . 4665 4655 . 721 184 ^hitehill and Greenskalns, 860 . 502 . . 9 Whole, 5025 5157 "t^T "i93 Altogether Troup, Whitehill, and Greenskains, are generally considered as amounting to half the parish, both as to extent and value of land ; and the following may be taken as a fair average calculation of the whole in imperial acres : — Acres cultivated, . . 10.000 Acres pasture or waste land, . 10,000 Acres in wood, . . 750 Acres in roads, houses, &c. 900 Of the 10,000 acres waste land, about 3000 or 4000 may be capable of tillage, and would yield a fair remuneration for capital laid out on it. The remainder, from the mountainous nature of the ground, want of water on the heights, and other causes, may be considered irreclaimable. Rent of Land, — Valued rent. Troup, L.2436 Whitehill, 85 2 2 Greenskains, 48 4 6 Earl of Fife, . 1540 Earl of Fife's Trustees, 1380 L.5489 6 8ScoU. The real rental of Troup is upwards of L. 3000, and the whole rental of the parish is between L. 6000 and L.7000. The rent per acre varies according to the locality, and the qua- lity of the soil. Good land in the neighbourhood of Macduff rents from L.d to L.1 ; the best farm land in the country part, from L. 2, 10s., and descends, according to the quality, to about 15s. The average rent of a farm may be from L.2 to L.1, 15s. accord- ing to the quality. Recent Agricultural Improvements. — Ploughing and farm- work are, in general, carried to a high degree of improvement in this parish and neighbourhood. The agricultural improvements which have tended much of late years to increase the value of the produce of the soil have been effected by these means : 1. English lime applied to the land as a BANFF. T 288 BANFFSHIRE. manure ; 2» bone manure ; 3. draining ; 4* tbe ready conveyance of grain and cattle to the London market by sea ; and 5. the su- perior mode of culture, and increased attention to the selection of grains suited to the soil, and to the breeding and rearing of cattle. I have been favoured with the following account from Mr Gar- diner of Greenskains, of the improvements on his farm, which are a good specimen of the improvements in the parish generally. ^^ The first of the more recent agricultural improvements I would take notice of, is bone noanure, which was used by me first in the year 1829, and I have continued to use it in large quanti- ties, every successive year, since that time ; raising fine crops of turnips, and the other crops in the rotation equally good ; the grass after the bone manure is particularly rich, and I have often observ-^ ed that the cattle eat it in preference to grass, after any other ma- nure. The advantages to be derived from this manure in this part of the country are incalculable. ^* The additional turnips raised by it keep a greater number of cattle during the winter, and they of course increase the quantity, and improve the quality of the farm-yard's dung, which being laid upon the farm the following year with a little more bone dusl, must go on increasing the fertility of the farm to a very conside- rable extent; and the facility we have here of shipping the cattle to London, and other great markets generally, causes a good de- mand for the extra number of cattle kept. " The next improvement I would take notice of is the wedge- draining, or, as it is termed, the frequent draining system of Mr Smith of Deanston. I commenced this operation in 1834, and, since that time, I have put in about 10,000 ells of these drains^ and have found the advantage of them very great, both from the increased quantity of corn raised, and also the superior quality of the grass. This, if properly followed out according to Mr Smith's plan, I consider the greatest of our modern improvements ; but the expense is so great, that few tenants on a nineteen yearns lease would be justified in going on with it to any great extent, without the proprietor bearing part of the expense. But I am perfectly satisfied, that there is a very great deal of the arable land in this parish that could be more than doubled in value by this improve- ment. " I would next notice the introduction of the short-homed breed of cattle. I have had that breed on. my farm since 1835, and find 3 GAMRIE. ?89 them thrive uncommonly well, both the pure breed and the 6rst cross from the Aberdeenshire. I can bring them, and have done so, to a greater weight at three years' old, than I used to have the native breed at four year's old ; their quality for feeding is decid- edly superior ; but I do not consider they would be a proper stock for the parish, but on the best farms. I have no hesitation in say- ing, that for the same quantity of good keep, this will return more money than any other cattle that can be put upon it. But they will never do to be sent to pasture on a heather hill. ^ I have kept a flock of about 200 Cheviot sheep for twelve years, bred from the best stocks in Ross-shire and Sutherland. They were at firstprincipally kept on natural grass pasture on the sea braes and boroude, and thrive remarkably welL Within the last few years, I have crossed them with pure Leicester tups, which has increased their size, their propensity to fatten, and also the quantity of their wooL Since using the Leicester tups, I have, in addition to their former natural pasture, been in the habit of depasturing most of my thin arable land by them, which I consider a great advantage on the poor land, first, because a sheep will fatten where an ox would starve, and second, the manner their dung is scattered over the land must add more to its fertility, than if the grass were eaten by cattle. I also allow them in spring a proportion of the turnips on the worst land, to be consumed on the ground. For the reasons I have stated above, it is my humble opinion that the poorest of the arable land in this parish would be more profitable, if stocked with sheep, than with cattle.'' Duration of Leases^ Crops, <$*c. — The general length of farm leases in this parish is for the period of nineteen years. A few old liferent leases still remain on the estate of Troup ; but none are given in that way now. The feus in Macduff and Garden- ston are perpetual. The chief crops raised in the parish are oats. Barley is raised to a considerable extent, and Scotch bear on some of the farms ; wheat, pease and beans, but rarely. Hay, potatoes, and turnips, are raised in regular rotation with oats. Large quantities of grain are shipped annually for the London and other markets, while barley and bear are generally sold to the home brewers and dis- tillers. There are two rotations of cropping throughout the parish, ac* cording as the nature of the different farms is found suitable, — the seven years and the five years. The former consists of two crops 290 BANFPSHfRE* of oats, one of turnip or potatoes, one of barley or oats, and three of ^rass. The five years' rotation has one crop of oats, one of turnips or potatoes, one of barley or oats, and two of grass. Land is scarcely ever fallowed here, except before a crop of wheat Manufactures. — There are five meaUmills in the parish, three saw-mills, one for grinding bones for manure, and another build- ing. At Mr Carny's manufactory of rope and sails at Macduff, 50 tons hemp for sails, value L. 1500; nets, L. 900 ; total, L.2400. Capital of the Gas Light Company, L. 1800, pays 5 per cent. Capital of the bone and saw-mill company, L. 10,000. Of the three fishing stations in the parish, the following account is taken in answer to minute inquiries at the principal curers. The cod, ling, and small fish are principally sold in the towns on the south and W3st friths, the herrings at Stettinj Hamburgh, Russia, Ireland, the West Indies, &c. Average number of haddocks, whitings, and other small fish taken in a year : No. of Boau. ^H-^^ J^^^u ^alue per boat. WMe value. Macduff, SA 4 2400 L. 120 L. 4*200 Gardenstown, 15 4 2400 120 1800 CroTie, 9 4 2700 135 1215 59 L. 7215 Cod and Ling Fishing. — Tons in the year. Value per ton« Whole value. Macduff, - 15 - L. 20 - L. fJOO Gardenstown, 24 - 14 - &% Crovie, . 28 - 14 - 392 L. 1028 Iiobstert at Gardenstown, 200 at 8d. each, - - 6? Herrings. — B--- ^. Cure". J^^, Vlue. Macduff, .50 4 8 100 L. 2100* Gardenstown, 34 4 3 150 2290* 4390 Red herrings cured at Macduff, ... 600 L. 18,900 Average value of 6sh per annum, L. 13,300. Navigation, — There is a very commodious harbour at MaodufiT, built chiefly at the expense of the Earl of Fife, the proprietor. An outer harbour was attempted to be built about twenty years ago, at the expense of the same munificent nobleman ; but it was almost wholly destroyed by successive storms. The remaining part of it has been secured, and is of considerable use as a break* • The price of uncured fish paid to the fishermen. DAMRIfik 291 Water. There is also a commodious little harbour at Gardens- town, built many years «go by the proprietor of Troup. The shipping at the two ports is as follows : — No. of ships. Tons burthen registered. Macduff, 15 1036 GardenstnwD, 3 130 Whole, 18 116G The exports from both ports generally are, live-cattle for the London market from MncduflT, grain, fish; and the imports, lime, coals, salt, wood, and market-goods of all kinds. Imports and Exports of Macduff for the year from Whitsunday IttSG to do. 1837, which may be considered an average of general years : — Exports. Imports; 1,690 boxes salmon. 37,535 barrels lime. 1,89 kitts do. 54,ld4 barrels coals 8,178 barrels herrings. 1,594 quarters bone manure. 17,301 quarters oats. 1,110 tons bones. 19,904 bolls noeal. Wood, value L. 1350. Ships entering and leaving the Ports, 206 ; tonnage of do. 10,745. Kent of shore-dues varies from L.23(^ to L.290. V. — Parochial Economy. Market^ Tmons. — There is a weekly provision market at Mac- iluff on Tuesday, and at Banff, in the immediate neigh bourhood^ on Friday. Macduff was constituted a royal burgh by charter by George III. in 1783, through the influence of James Earl of Fife, who patronized and greatly iiifiproved it. In the early part of the last century, it was only a small fishing village, containing only a few houses, and was called Down ; while the land was let in farms. Earl James changed it to Macduff-, after his own family name, which is Duff. It is included by the Reform Act within the boundaries of the burgh of Banff, but retains its separate magis- trates, namely, a provost, two bailies, and four councillors, elected by the feuars. ViUages.^^The village of Gardenstown appears from a record in the baptismal register to have been built in the year 1720, and has remained nearly stationary, as to size and population, ever since. The fishing village of Crovie is above a mile eastward of Gar- denstown« The date of its commencement is unknown, but sup- posed to be about the same as that of Gardenstown, and Down or Macduff. A small village called the Longman was commenced on the top of a hill of the same name, about twenty years ago, by the Earl of Fife, on the Banff and Peterhead turnpike ; and as the 292 BANFFSHIRE. surrounding waste land was let out in small portions to the feuars, the whole in that neighbourhood has been reclaimed, and is now ill a state of cultivation. The locality has, therefore, more the cha- racter and appearance of a colony of small crofters regularly set down, than of a village. Means of CommunicatUnL^^k stage*coach, which used to carry the mail, passes from Banff to Peterhead daily, through the south district of the parish, for upwards of seven miles. A foot post goes on alternate days on the old coast road, the whole length of the parish from Banff to Fraserburgh, through Aberdour and Pit- sligo, going one day and returning the other. A carrier also goes regularly twice a week from Gardenstown to Banff, and another carrier goes weekly between Aberdeen and Gardenstown. The Fraserburgh postman has no house for the delivery of his letters in the parish, except at Macduff. An application is about to be made for a post-office at Dubford, which the postman passes, and where cross roads branch off in all directions ; and as there is a considerable amount of correspondence connected with the trade, fishing, and shipping in Gardenstown, as well as from the interior, it is hoped the application will be successful, as the want of a post-office is the greatest privation in the way of communica- tion that the parish has to endure. Ecclesiastical State.^^lt would be impossible for one church to accommodate the whole of this parish, on account of its length and population. To remedy this, a very neat and commodious church was built at Macduff, by the late James Earl of Fife, and allow- ed a small salary for the minister. It has been used as a Chapet of Ease for many years, with the half of the parish attached to it, as to population, and about one-third in regard to extent. The parish church now stands about the centre of the eastern or Gamrie district, and is as convenient for the parishioners as the very uneven nature of the land and roads admits of. It was built in the year 1830, is a very neat and comfortable place of worship, and abundantly commodious for the congregation, being seated for 1000 sitters, and capable of holding considerably more. An excellent manse was built in the vicinity of the church for the minister, with a suitable steading of offices. The extent of the glebe is about 13 acres, of which about 10 or 11 -are arable. The value is about L. 13. The aoftount of stipend is 16^ chalders of victual, Linlithgow measure, half barley and half oatmeal» calcu- QAM R IIS. 293 lated annually at the fiar prices for the county. There is also L«8» 6s. 8d. allowed for communion elements. The great bulk of the population in this parish are members of the Established Church ; and their attendance both at the parish church and at the chapel of Macduff is in general regular and punctual, when the weather and roads permit. The following is the account taken by the two ministers for a census in 1837: Maeduff Gamrie Total of district. district. familii Episcopalian families, 18 4 22 Independent do. 13 5 18 United Seoesnon da 22 2 24 Baptists, 2 1 8 Roman Catholic do. 2 2 Methodist do. 2 2 4 59 14 73 Established Church do. including both districts, 876. Three or four families, in the south-west of the parishi attend the church of King- Edward, which is much nearer them ; and a few on the borders of King- Edward parish, farther east, attend the church of Gamrie for the same reason. The sacrament of the Lord's Supper is dispensed once a-year at both churches, with generally upwards of 700 communicants each. The young are admitted to communion for the first time, after careful instruc- tions and examinations by the ministers for months previous, and strict inquiry into their moral and religious character. The Crown is the sole patron of the parish, and the Earl of Fife's Trustees appoint the minister of Macduff, and pay him a salary of L.80, which they have raised to L.100 for some years past; but, as they will give no bond for his stipend, he has not been admitted to the rank of a quoad sacra minister, although ordained to the pastoral office. The Rev. Thomas Wilson is the third of his fa* mily, in a direct line, who has held the office of parish minister of Gamrie. His grandfather was ordained to that charge in 1732. Education. — There are two parochial schools in the parish; one at Gamrie, and the other at Macduff; each has the salary settled by law in such cases, of L.25, ISs. 3^ with a share of the Dick Bequest The amount of fees average at Macduff about I>.50, and at Gamrie, L.25. The schoolmaster of Gamrie's other emoluments, as session«clerk, amount to L.12, making his living altogether about L.90, with a house and small garden, the rent of which is paid gratuitously by Mr Garden of Troup, as 294 BANPF^ttlKtl. that of the schoolmaster of Macduff is by the Earl of Fife's Trus« tees, One'private school is now taught at Troup ; another at Gardens- town. A handsome new school is erecting at the Longman village by the Earl of Fife* and subscribers in the neigfhbourhond. There are three private or subscription male schools in the parish, besides several other chance schools, both male and female, in Macduff. The number of children at the parochial school of Macduff, at one time, may average about 110; those at Gamrie about 50. The whole children at school jn Macduff, 800 ; in the other parts of the parish, above 200. There is a female school in Mac- duff, with a house and moderate endowment, for the useful and common branches of female education, such as reading, sewing, knitting, &c. ; and one at Gardenstown, not endowed. It would be a great benefit to this part of the country, if the parochial sys- tem were extended, and made to embrace female as well as male education. Sabbath-school teaching has been in full operation in this pa- rish for some considerable time past. There are about 200 at- tending the Sabbath school of Macduff, under the superintendence of the minister and schoolmaster, with six or eight subordinate teachers, male and female ; and nearly an equal number attend the different Sabbath- schools in the Gamrie district, under the superintendance of the parish minister ; but these are in general more thinly attended in summer than in winter. lAhraries, — There is a good circulating library in Macduff, es- tablished and supported chiefly by subscription, and the aid of libe- ral donations from the Earl of Fife. There is no public library in the Gamrie district, although attempts have been made to have one established. The parochial schoolmaster procured the Kil- dare Street Library for the use of his scholars, which he finds a great benefit in giving them a taste for useful reading. The mi- nister has also procured one of the Tract Society's Libraries for the Sabbath scholars, which is also very well employed and useful. Savings Bank, — A parish savings bank, on the national system, was established at Gamrie in 1836, is succeeding remarkably well» and gives promise of becoming of vast benefit to the labouring community. The amount of deposits in August 1840 was above L.1300. Poof and Parochial Funds. — The poor's funds of this parish are nearly exhausted. L.200 was left by the minister's uncle, Hugh OAMRie. 295 Wilson^ Esq. of Jamaica ; and L. 20 by a Mr West, for annuities to be paid to certain poor individuals specified ; but the sum is not available for the general poor. The average number of paupers on the roll is 100, besides about twenty families that receive occa- sional aid. The distributions for the relief of single families are^ largest, L.7, 16s. ; smallest, ^s. ; average, L. 2, 3s. 6d. Average amount of contributions for the poor, from church collections, L.I 00 ; from voluntary assessment of the heritors, L. 100 ; from alms, legacies, &c., L.50. The heritors assessed themselves last year to the amount of L.100 to supply present wants; but it is to be feared a public assessment cannot long be avoided. Inns. — Low public-houses have been a great nuisance in this parish and neighbourhood, for a considerable number of years. ^ There are far too many of them yet in the town of Macduff and the villages. Fuel — There was peat fuel in the parish, but it is all exhausted. There is, however, an inexhaustible stock of peat moss, in the hills of Kinbean and Overbrae, in the parishes of Aberdour and King- Edward, and from this the farmers drive a considerable portion of their fuel during summer, at a time when there is little else to do for their servants and horses. Were it not for this, peats would be much more expensive fuel in this parish than coals, which are imported in sufficient abundance during summer to Macduff, Gardenstown, and occasionally to CuUycan, generally from the Newcastle and Sunderland mines. Miscellaneous Observations. A remarkably good feeling has existed, time out of mind, in this parish, between landlord and tenant. The Earls of Fife and the Gardens of Troup have been proverbial for ages as good land- lords. One consequence of this is, that the land is not rack-rent- ed, and the cultivators of the soil are in general what is called well to live ; while the landlord, on the other hand, has seldom to complain of ill paid rents. It is a rule with both landlords ne- ver to move a well doing tenant. And many is the instance in which the farmer can say or sing, *' The ftrm I now hold on your bonour*R estate Is the same which my grandfaUier tiUed,** &c. Another peculiarity among the tenantry, which proceeds, no doubt, from the same cause, is an endless chain of connec- tion, running through them by kindred and intermarriages. With few exceptions, the families of the whole farms on the 29G BANFFSHIRE. estate of Troup are all related in some way to each other. This syelem of clanship is carried still fitrther amoog the fishings population in the villages; the most of whom in Crovie and Gardenstown are of the name of Watt or Wiseman, so that they are obliged to have recourse to nicknames for the sake of distinc* tion. It is a rare thing for them to marry but among themselves, as the manners and habits, as well as the work of the rural popu- lation, are quite diflPerent from theirs. The influx of strangers, however, at the time of the herring-fishing leads both sexes to form connection with strangers, which will likely in time give more va- rietv of names. March 1842. PARISH OF KIRKMICHAEL .• PRESBYTERY OF ABERNETHY, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. ALEXANDER TULLOCH, MINISTER. I.«— TOPOORAPHY AND NATURAL HlSTORY. Name. — The parish takes its name from the church, which was dedicated, previous to the Reformation, to St Michael, and called after his name, St Michael's Kirk, or Kirkmichael. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is upwards of SO miles in length from north to south along the banks of the Avon, a tribu* tary branch of the Spey ; and its average breadth is from 3 to 4 miles. Only about eighteen miles of its length is inhabited. The other twelve or fifteen miles stretch into the Grampian hills, and are uninhabited. Of this territorial extent, about nine miles of the inha- bited part, and all the uninhabited portion, lie in the quoad sacra pa- rish of Tomintoul. The main range of the Grampian mountains on the south, and branches of that range running from south to north on the east and west form its boundaries, and encifcle it, ex- cept on the north, where it joins the parish of Inveravon in a nar- row neck at the outlet of the Avon. Mountains. — The whole mountainous range of Glenavon, in- cluding the north side of Benmacdui and the east side of Cairn- * Drawn «p by the Kev. Charles Macpherson, Minister of TomintouL KIRKMICHAKL. 297 ^rum, the highest mountaiD in the Grampian chain, lies in the southern extremity of the parish. The forest of Glenavon contains from 60>000 to 70,000 imperial acres, and has been lately set off by the Duke of Richmond, the proprietor, as a deer-forest. Cairngorum and Benmacdui rise respectively to the heights of 4060 and 4362 feet above the level of the sea, and retain the unmelted snow in the ravines on their am- ple sides generally all the year round. The general appearance of the parish is mountainous. Its inhabited parts consist of the narrow valley of the Avon, and the tributary glens of the Conglass and Kebat on the east, and the Lochy on the west Meteorology. — The temperature of the atmosphere, as ascer- tained at Tomintoul by daily observation at 9 a. m., for the year 1839, wa^as follows : The observations were made on Fahrenheifs thermometer in the shade. Average monthly temperature, Janu- ary, 25®; February, 27f° ; March, 29§ ; April, 36^*^; May, 42 ; June, 56^®; July, 66^^°; August, 62g®; September, 491**; Octo- ber, 41 1®; November, 34 J®; December, 29 J®. Average daily tem- perature for the year, 434* The coldest day was the 26th Novem- ber, 8^, and the warmest the 17th June, 79^ An extraordinary snow storm occurred on the Idth May, and continued to the 16th. The snow drifted to the depth of many feet. On the 14th, the ther- mometer stood on an average of the whole day, 6° under the freezing point. The pressure of the atmosphere was as follows : Average monthly pressure, January, 28.99 inches ; February, 28.92 in. ; March, 29. 13 in.; April, 29.6 in.; May, 29.57 in.; June, 29.46 in. ; July, 29.29 in. ; August, 29.44 in. ; September, 28.88 in. ; Octo- er, 29.66 in. ; November, 29.2 in. ; December, 29. 13 in. Average pressure for the year was 29.37 inches. The pressure was least on the 7th January at 9 a. m., 26.3 inches, and greatest on the 29th October at 9 a. m., 30.7 inches. Hydrography. — The only river worthy of the name in the parish is the Avon, or rather this water is a deep rapid stream, clear as crystal, which, after running a course of about forty miles, and be» ing increased by many tributary streams, falls into the Spey at Ballindalloch, in the parish of Inveravon. Salmon is found in the Avon from the month of June till towards the latter end of the year. Lakes. — Lochavon lies in the southern extremity of the parish, in the bosom of the Grampian mountains. It is estimated at three miles long and a mile broad. The scenery around it is particu* 298 BANFFSHIRE. larly wild and magnificent The towering sides of Bein-bord, Betn*> macdui, Cairngorum, and Bein-bainac, rise all around it, and their nigged bases skirt its edges, except at the narrow outlet of the Avon^ at its eastern extremity. Its water is quite luminous, and of great depth, especially along its northern side^ It abounds in trout of a black colour and slender shape, differing much in appearance from the trout found in the limpid stream of the Avon, which is* sues from it. At the west end of the lake is the famous Clach- dhian or shelter stone. This stone is an immense block of gra- nite, which seems to have fallen from a projecting rock above it, ris- ing to the height of several hundred feet, and forming the broad shoulder of Benmacdui. The stone rests on two other blocks imbedded in a mass of rubbish, and thus forms a cave sufficient to contain twelve or fifteen men. Here the visitor to tj{e scenery of Lochavon takes up his abode for the night, and makes himself as comfortable as he can, where *^ the Queen of the storm sits," and at a distiince of fifteen or twenty miles from all human abode. There are various other small lakes called na-du^lochan or the black lochies^ a little to the south-east of Lochavon, towards the forest of Braemar. These also abound in trout, and afford good sport to the angler. Lochbuilg lies between Inchrory and the Garron on the Beallach-dearg road. It is upwards of a mile long and about half that breadth, and abounds also in trout. Geology. '-^The whole range of the Grampian Hills is compos- ed of granite rock. There is a bed of sandstone of rather soft and friable quality, running across the whole breadth of the parish at Tomintoul ; and farther down, there is a bed of slate-stone, also running across the parish near the parish church. There is a slate quarry wrought in this bed close by the banks of the Avon. It produces excellent gray slates and pavement slabs, not inferior perhaps to any in Scotland. Limestone abounds in almost every part of the parish. Ironstone is found in the south-eastern extre« mity of the parish, in the Hill of the Leacht. About a century ago, the iron ore from this place was transported sixteen miles across the country on horseback, and manufactured with charcoal from the woods of Abernethy by an Iron Company established there. The ore is considered rich, and is to be found in great abundance.* Fluor spar is found in the Braes of Avon, and there * Specimens of it have been analyzed and found to contain 85 per cent, of iron. It i« also interspersed with rich veins of manganese, of which a considerable quantity has been dug out, in the course of last summer, by workmen employed by the Duk« of Richmond. It is proposed to carry on the mining of this valuable mineral, which 4 f KIBRMICHAEL. 299 is an extensive marl^bank close by the Avon, a little below Inch* rory, in the southern extremity of the inhabited part of the parish, but it is not available for agricultural purposes, from the want of a road to it. If there were any access to this marl-bank, it would be of great value in the parish. There is a considerable portion of the arable soil alluvial, t. e. on the^haughs of the Avon, and its tributary streams ; and the greatest part of the remainder rests on lime-rock, and consists of a rich Joam. The soil, on the whole, is productive, and wor- thy of a better^climate. Zoology. — The eagle is still found in the forest of Glenavon. It builds its eyrie in some inaccessible rock, and continues from year to year to hatch its young in the same spot. One of these noble birds was killed some years ago, which measured upwards of six feet from tip to tip of the wings. The following incident, illus- trative of the habits of birds and beasts of prey, may not be un^ worthy of notice. One of the keepers of the forest being one day reclining on the side of a hill, observed an eagle hovering about for its prey, .and 'darting suddenly down, it caught hold of a polecat, with which it rose up and flew away in the direc- tion of an immense cliff on the opposite hill. It had not pro- ceeded far, when he observed it abating its course, and descending in a spiral direction, until it reached the ground. He was led from curiosity to proceed towards the spot, which was about a mile dis- tant from him, and there he found the eagle quite dead, with its talons transfixed in the cat. The cat was also dead, with its teeth fixed in the eagle's gullet. Foxes were, some years ago, nu- merous in the mountain ranges of the parish, and were very de- structive to the flocks, but it is believed that they are now nearly extirpated. Otters, weasels, polecats, and rabbits, are found in the parish. All sorts of game, such as grouse, hares, snipe, and partridges, abound over the whole parish. Ptarmigan, also, are numerous on the Grampian hills. Exclusive of the immense forest of Glenavon, (now being stocked with deer,) the shooting on the Duke of Richmond's portion of the hills alone lets at about L.300 a-year. The domestic animals are all of the ordinary kind, but conside- it is expected will pay well and give employment to a number of work people. Plum- bago is also found m cousidereble quantity and of good quality in the immediate neighbourhood. 300 BANFFSHIRE. rable improvement is now taking place in the breed of cattle, horses, and sheep. 11. — Civil History. Emitient Men, — Of military officers connected with the parish, may be mentioned Major-General William Alexander Gordon, C. B. of In verlochy, (of the ancient and respectable Gordons of Crough- ly,) an officer of undaunted courage and intrepidity, who, at the memorable battle of the Nieve, at the head of the light infantry of General Hill's division, led the van in crossing the river, dislodged the enemy on the opposite bank, and turned the fortune of the day infavourof the British arms. The General still lives to enjoy his well earned honours and the respect of his countrymen. He had three brothers officers in the army, one of whom, James Gordon, Esq. of Revack, in Strathspey, retired from the paymastership of the 92d Highlanders at the close of the Peninsular war, and now lives be- loved and respected by his family, and a numerous circle of friends and acquaintances. — Another family, that of the kte Mr Samuel Middletonof Inveroury, has been equally eminent in the military de« partment. One of his sons, Lieutenant- Colonel William Middle- ton, an accomplished gentleman and officer, has lately retired from the command of the 42d Highlanders, after an active service of more than thirty years, principally abroad. Another of them, Lieutenant-Colonel Charles Middletou,. retired from the command of a cavaby regiment some years ago, and two more of his sons, John and Alexander, the one a captain, and the other a quarter- master, lost their lives in the service of their country. The pro- motion of this fiimily rested solely on their own individual me- rit and bravery. — Another family, that of the late Captain Robert Macgregor of Delavorar, also furnished four meritorious officers for the King's service. The last of them. Captain Charles Mac- gregor, a worthy gentleman and magistrate, died at Delavorar some years ago. Land^oumers. — The sole land-owners are the Duke of Rich- mond and the Earl of Seafield. The former owns about nine- tenths, and the latter about one -tenth of the parish. Parochial Registers. — The parochial registers have been very imperfectly kept. There are no original records previous ^o the beginning of the present century. At that period, there were some fragments of registers of births and marriages extending as far back as the year 1725. These were collected and transcribed about the year 1800, but there are considerable blanks in the manuscript. KIRKMICHAEL. 301 The earliest entry in the register of births is in the year 1725, and of marriages, in 1726. There are no records of minotes of disci- pline previous to the year 1810, and even since that period, these records have not been regularly kept. III. — Population. The population, taken at different times during the last eighty-' four years, is as under :•— ^ In 1755, according to Dr Webster^s report, . 1288 1792, according to the last Statistical Account, . 1276 181 1 , aa taken under the direction of Pariiament, 1886 1821, Do. Do. . . 1570 1831, Do. Do. . 1741 1889, aa awertained by correct enumeration, 1722 Of the population of 1831, there were 836 males, and 905 fe- males. During upwards of Bfty years previous to the commence- ment of the present century, the population appears to have re- mained nearly stationary. But, during the first thirty years of this century, it increased between 400 and 500. This increase has been owing to the introduction of an improved system of husbandry during that period, and the great kindness of Dukes Alexander and Geoi^e Gordon to their tenantry, and their desire to continue them and their families on the estate, and promote their wel- fare. It may also be mentioned, as conducing to this increase of the population, that Alexander Duke Gordon gave great encout ragement to the village of Tomintoul ; in consequence of which the village increased firom 37 to 143 families duringthe same period. Since the year 1831, there has been a decrease of 19 on the population. This decrease is accounted for by the great failure of the crops during the last four years, and by the village of To- mintoul having been enlarged beyond the maximum of its resources for supporting its inhabitants, many of whom are now obliged to leave it ; and also by a desire, manifested on the part of the pro* prietors, to enlarge the farms in the parish, with the view of in- creasing the comfort of those who occupy the soil ; and it is more than probable, that, from the operation of the two last mentioned causes, the population will continue to decrease, at least for some time. Tbe populatkm in the viUaffe of Tomintoul is • 580 landward part of tbe parish of Tomintoul, . 456 Kirkmiehael, . 734 1192 Total, 1722 The births in the parish for the last seven years are as under : 302 2 BANFFSHlitE. ProtctUDt birthi ProtesUnt Roman • Yev. .In quoad sacra pa- births in Catholic Tou rish of Tomintoul. Kirkmichael. births. 1838; 18 . U . 20 52 1834, 20 4 10 34 1836. 29 8 25 62 1836, 19 8 16 43 1837. 23 5 19 47 ias8, 16 3 18 37 1839, 18 3 15 36 143 . 45 . 123 311 From this table, which has been constructed from the registers, it appears that the average Protestant births in the quoad gacra parish of Tomintoul, among a population of 623^ has been, for each of the last seven years, 20^ ; and in Kirkmichael, among a po- pulation of 614, 6^ ; and among a Roman Catholic population of 485, 17$. Average annual births in the whole parish, 44^. From a comparison of the Protestant population allocated to the parish church, with the number of births, it is evident that not a third of them is registered. The number of Protestant marriages for the last seven years in the quoad sacra parish of Tomintoul' is 14, average yearly 2; at Kirkmichael, 32, average yearly, 4$ ; Roman Catholics, ]6, ave- rage yearly, 2f •* Average yearly in the parish, df • There is no register of deaths kept The number of persons under 15 years of age, is 664 betwixt 15 and SO, . 375 30 and 50, . 371 50 and 70, 219 upwards of 70, . 93 Total, 1722 There are 20 individuals above eighty years of age, 3 are above ninety, and there is a married couple, each of whom is above eighty^seven years, and who have lived happily together in the bands of wedlock upwards of sixty years. There are two proprietors of land of the yearly value of L.50 and upwards. In the quoad sacra parish of Tomintoul, in a population of 988^ there are 10 widowers and 41 widows. There are 13 bachelors and 4 widowers above fifty years of age, and 50 unmarried women and 37 widows above forty-five years of age. There are 225 fa- milies; of these, 123 have married couples at their head. The other 123 are superintended by widowers, widows, bachelors, and * It appears thai this number of marriages registered at Kirkmichael includes ae- veral of the marriagCB registered at Tomintoul, both Protestant and Uomau Catholic. KIRKMICHAKL. 303 spinsters. There areSlS under twelve years of age, and 187 un- der seven years. There are 167 who usually employ themselves as servants, — being 120 more than the number of individuals in that capacity which the parish requires. The number of illegitimate births for the last twelve years is somewhat under an average of 3 each year. There are 362 families in the parish. The average number of individuals in each family is 5| in the landward part of the parish, and 8f in the village. There are two fatuous persons, and two dumb. The language generally spoken is the Gaelic, but it has de- creased very considerably within the last forty years. There is not an individual between twelve and forty years of age who can- not speak English. They all read English, and there are many of the rising generation who cannot speak Gaelic. The people have improved much of late years in the habits of in- dustry and cleanliness. Amidst many difficulties and privations, they enjoy, in a reasonable degree, the comforts and necessaries of life, and are a contented and happy people, enthusiastically at- tached to their kindred and country, of unshaken loyalty, and firmly adhering to the civil and religious institutions of the land* Upon the whole, the inhabitants of this parish may be said to be an intellectual, moral, and religious people. Poaching in game and salmon, though much on the decrease, is not wholly exterminated. Private distillation, and smuggling in ardent spirits, which not many years ago prevailed universally, and which tended much to the demoralization of the people, are now wholly unknown. IV. — Industry. The number of acres, standard imperial measure, which is culti- vated within the parish, is about 2400. The number of acres which never have been cultivated, and which remain constantly waste or in pasture, is uncertain, but of great extent ; it b esti- mated in the last Statistical Account at 80,000, exclusive of the forest of Glenavon, which is not less than 60,000, say 140,000 in whole. There is not an acre of planted wood in the parish i but the greater part of the valley of the Avon is interspersed with natural growing birch and alder, which adds much to the beauty of the scenery ; but the wood is of little value, as no care is bestowed upon the management of it. The average rent of arable land per im- BANVr. u .104 BANFFSHIHt:, perial acre, is about L. 1, 3$. ; but some extent of pasture land i^ allotted to each farm rent free, and several districts in the parish have a privilege of pasturing sheep and ciittle in common over the hills and moors. Wages. — The rate of wages for farm'servants in the year is from L.9 to L.12 for ploughmen, and from L.3 to L.4, 10s. for vi^omen- servants, with victuals. . Live-stoek. — The black- faced sheep are the common breed in the parish, and of cattle the west Highland is preferred. That at^* tention to their improvement which would be desirable, has been for a long time neglected, but of late years, from the encourage- ment given by the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland, by the distribution of their premiums, more attention is now given to the improvement of the breeds. Some tenants of capital and enterprise have brought into the parish animals of a superior kind, and it is to be expected that the improvement in this important branch of agriculture will still advance. The total number of cattle in the parish of Tomintoul is 801 ; of sheep, 6536 ; of goats, 410 ; and of horses, 1 88. The general mode of husbandry pursued is the six shift rota- tion, viz. green crop, barley or bear sown with grass, two grass crops, and two corn crops. This system was introduced about thirty years ago, and has tended much to increase the quantity of grain raised, and the number of cattle reared. The Duke of Rich- mond now restricts his principal tenants ta a five shift rotation of cropping. Leases^ 8fc. — The general duration of leases is nineteen years» These, with few exceptions, expire in 1842. Considerable im- provement has been made within the last twenty years, in the building of dwelling-houses and farm-steadings. The buildings on the farms of Inverlochy, Croughly, Ruthven, and Delavorar, are very substantial and commodious. The tenants on these farms, and generally in the parish, have of late years improved and enlarged their farms by draining, enclosing, and cultivating waste ground; and by the encouragement now offered by the- Duke of Richmond, the proprietor of the principal part of the pa* rish, there is no doubt but with the commencement of new leases this improvement will proceed still more rapidly. Raw Produce.-^ The average product of grain of all kinds, whether cultivate for the food of man or the domestic animals, may be estimated at L.9500 or potatoes and turnips cultivated in the fields, at 1200 01 hoy, . . 306 KIRKMICHARL. ,305 V. — Parochial EcoNOMir. Village. — Tomintoul is the only village in the parish. It is situated about five miles south of the parish church. It was com- menced in the year 1750, and now contains a population of 580. It has five markets held annually in it. There is no system of po- lice established. The villagers subsist chiefly on the produce of their tenements and the small lots of land which they rent from the heritor* The average quantity of land attached to each tene- ment is about two acres. There are 120 tenements, and 143 fa- milies, 56 of the families occupy all the land* The tenure is a 114 years' lease of the tenement, consisting of 36 falls. The lease commenced in 1825. There is no branch of trade or ma- nufacture established in the village, and the lots of land are too .small for the comfortable maintenance of those who occupy them. There are 87 families depending on handicraft, trade, or on their industry as common labourers, or on charity for their maintenauce. The site of the village was a bleak and barren moor previous to its erection in 1750, and still from its exposed situation, and hav- ing no wood near it, it presents a bleak and barren aspect. It is the highest in elevation above the sea, and probably the farthest distant from the sea of any village in Scotland of the same extent and population.* Means of Communication — The parish presents the greatest fa- cilities and inducements for being made one of th» most public thoroughfares of any Highland parish in Scotland, yet it is curi- ous, if not extraordinary, fact, that it is shut out from all commu- nication with the surrounding countries, and remains at this mo- ment nearly as unapproachable as it was a hundred years ago. Whilst the improvements of late years have brought turnpike roads * Tomintoul, or torn'On-Vtabhailt signifies the barn hilloek. There was a small •farm near where the site of the village now is, having the barn on a gentle eminence, at a little distance from the dwelling-house. Thb eminence or hillock took its name from the circumstance of having the bam placed on it, and hence the name of the village. Previous to the erection of the village, and many years thereafter, this lit- tle farm and all the ground now occupied by the village and attached to it, did not produce L.3n of yearly rent to the proprietor. It now produces nearly 1^.300. Mora than three-fourths of the land has been improved by the villagers within the last forty years, from barren moor and bog, with a wet, gravelly, impervious subsoil. The rent now charged for this ground is about L. 1 per acre, which seenris altogether out of proportion to its quality and produce, from minute calculation of the pro- duce of the crop of 1838, in the whole village, it was ascertained that the land rent for every boll of meal produced was L.4, 1& 2d., and taking the three crops and rents of 1836, 1837, and 1838 logther, the land rent paid per boll of produce, was L.2, 5s. 2d. ; but these years, together with 1839 and 1840, formetl a series of unpie- cedentedly bad years^-the crop of each of them in succcsssion being nearly all dcstro;yT ed by frost in the month of August. 06 BANFFSHIRE. within some miles of it on the north and east, none of them hare yet reached its boundaries, and on the south and west there is not a turnpike within thirty miles of it. There is a daily post to To- mintoul, and several small carriers go weekly, or as occasion re^ quires, to Elgin and Forres. The supply of merchant goods is brought chiefly from Aberdeen. The long-projected south and north line of road from the shores of the Moray Frith to Perth, lies through the parish. This line of road, if opened, would create a transit of all marketable commodities, both to the north and south, and bring £lgin and Perth about 6fty miles nearer each other. An east and west line from Aberdeen to Inverness also lies through the parish. This line if opened, would cross the for- mer in the village of Tomintoul, and be fully as short as the pre- sent line by Keith and Huntly. There are only twenty-one miles of it to open from Grantown to Strathdou, through this parish. The opening of these two great lines of road would promote the means of communication in every direction, and conduce greatly to the improvement and prosperity of the parish. The present mail route between Tomintoul and Perth (by Dundee and Aber- deen), is 167 miles, whereas by the proposed line by Braemar it is only 67. This line was surveyed in the year 1810 by direction of the Commissioners for making Highland roads and bridges. It was again surveyed in the year 1832, bj direction of the Lord Lieutenant of Morayshire, and other noblemen and gentlemen in-> terested«; and again in 1839 by direction of tlie trustees of the Blairgowrieand bridge of Cally turnpike road. The total estimated expense of completing the whole line from Elgin to Perth is vari* ously stated in these surveys at about L. 18^000 to L. 23,100. It is calcutated that the free revenue to be derived from' tolls would yield 5 per cent interest for upwards of L. 13,000 of this sum, and that about L. 10,000 will have to be subscribed by the heritors and others more immediately benefited by the undertaking. It is much to be regretted that after so many repeated attempts, during up- wards of thirty years, this comparatively small sum could not be raised for the accomplishment of such a great national improvement The only portion of the line at present impassable by wheeled carriages lies between Tomintoul and Castletown of Braemar, a dis- tance of twenty-one miles, and the highest estimate for opening this portion, including the expense of a bridge over the Dee, is only L. 8200. It is, however, still to be hoped thai the public KIRKMICHABL. 307 Spirit of the heritors on this principal portion of the line^ aided bj Government and all others concenied, will surmount every obsta* cle, and speedily .open up this great and important line of com- munication between the north and the south of Scotland. Ecclesiastical State, — The church was built in the year 1807. It contains sufficient room for 350 persons. It is situated about four mites from the northern extremity of the parish, and fourteen from the southern. Since the erection of Tomintoul into a pa« rish quoad sacra, its situation, (as regards the congregation now attending it,) is the most convenient that could be chosen. It is a plain building, in tolerable repair. It has no gallery, but is of sufficient size for the congregation allocated to it. The sittings are all free. The glebe is about nine acres. The stipend is 15 chalders, at the Bars prices of the county of Banff, one-half in oatmeal, and the other half in barley, with L.8, 6s. 8d. for com- munion elements. The manse and offices were rebuilt on a new site on the glebe in 1825, and are in good repair. The manse is an elegant and commodious dwelling, situated on the top of a romantic knoll, 200 or 300 feet above the level of the Avon, and commanding an extensive view of the picturesque valley of the Avon to the south, with the summits of the Grampian Hills in the distance. The good taste and liberality of the Rev. Mr Tulloch, the present incumbent, have done much in adding to the elegance of the manse, by his improvements in planting and inclosing around it, and in opening up approaches to it. There is a Government church and manse in the village of Tomintoul. It was built by Government in 182G, at an expense of L.750 for the church, and L.73d for the manse. It is situated five miles from the parish church. The district allocated to it was erected into a parish quoad sacm by the General Assembly of 1833. The stipend is L.120, including communion elements, and is paid by Government There is a glebe of half an acre, with another half acre and two roods for a garden and site of the church, manse, and the church-yard. The church affords accom- modation for 336 sitters, and is built to admit of a gallery to con- tain about 200 more. Two-thirds of the area are let at from 6d. to 9d. each sitting, annually ; the proceeds to be applied in keep- ing the church and manse in repair ; but the collection of the seat rents has been discontinued for some years. The other third 308 BANFf^iiHlRE:« part is allotted as free sittings. The manse is a neat cottage of one storey, consisting of seven apartments. There is a Roman Catholic chapel also in the village. It is 8 very substantial and capacious building, and includes the priest's dwelling-house, which consists of eleven apartments. It was built in 1838, and is sufficient to accommodate 464 persons on the ground area, besides space for galleries to accommodate 300 more. The sittings at present 6tted np are for 368 individuals^ The expenses of the building were defrayed by private subscrip- tions over the three kingdoms. These are stated as exceeding L.1200 ; but the exact amount, or how much has been expended on the building, is not known. The bishop resides at Presshome, in the Enzie, near Fochabers. The priest is paid by the seat- rents of the chapel, which are let at from 2s. to 4s. each sitting. He has also the interest of L.400, bequeathed by a native of this parish to the priest at Tomintoul, besides the annual allowance of about L.9 from the fund for the maintenance of the Roman Catholic clergy. The number of families attending the parish church is 115, and the individuals, 614. The number attending the church at Tomintoul is 148 families, and 623 individuals. Total attending both the Established churches, 263 families, and 1237 individuals. The number attending the Roman Catholic chapel is 99 families, and 485 individuals ; and as the chapel is sufficient to accommodate 764 persons, it appears that the muni* ficenceof the supporters of Popery has, as in this instance, furnished accommodation for 279 individuals more than the whole congre- gation, young and old, attending it consists of. Divine service at the Established Church is generally well attended. A great im- provement has taken place in this respect of late years, although there are a few nominal adherents of the Church of Scotland, who still retain the pernicimis habit of going to church only oc- casionally, or not at all. The average number of communicants in the church at To- mintoul is 150, and in the parish church, 143; total, 293^ There are occasional collections and subscriptions raised for the General Assembly's schemes for religious purposes, for the Bible Society, and for the infirmary at Aberdeen. These collections and subscriptions amount annually to about L. 10. Education. — There are three permanent schools in the parish, 1. the parish school, near the parish church. It is attended by KIRKMICHA^L. B09 ftboiit 20 scholars annually. The teacher has the maximum ^ala^- ry of L.34, 4s. 4id., besides being eligible for a share of Mr Dick's bequest of from L.20 to L.30 a year. The school-fees average about L.8 a year. By the liberality of the heritors, the teacher has a dwelling-house of six apartments, and a commodi- ous school-room sufficient to contain about 100 scholars. The school- room was built in 1836, and both school -room and dwel- ling-house are in good repair. The teacher has a garden and croft of land sufficient to keep a cow. He has L. 1 a year of fee as session-clerk, besides the usual perquisites of office, which do not amount to more than L.2. 2. There is a school in the vil- lage of TomintouK The school is at present on no established footing. The teacher receives L.17, 3s. 3d. a year as a gratuity from His Grace the Duke of Richmond. The parochial school was situated in Tomintoul until the year 1835, and the teacher still enjoys the accommodations. The school is attended by upwards of 100 scholars annually. The school-fees average about L. 14 a year. There are measures now in progress for erecting this school into a parochial school, under the Act I. Victoria, c 87. The heri- tors have liberally undertaken to enlarge the accommodations, so as to entitle the teacher to the maximum salary ; and it is expect- ed that he will be also eligible for a share of Mr Dick's bequest. An active and efficient teacher will thus be suitably encouraged. Be- sides the ordinary branches of English reading, writing, arithme- tic, and English grammar, such scholars as may require it are taught Latin, mathematics, and geography at both these schools. The school-fees charged from those who can pay, are 2s. a quar- ter for reading, with 6d. additional for writing, and Is. additional for arithmetic and English grammar. Five shillings a quarter are charged for the higher branches; but a considerable proportion of the scholars are unable to pay any fees. The greater number of them attend only about a quarter in the year — many of them for a shorter period. 3. There is another school in the village, en- dowed by the Trustees of the late Mr Donaldson of Aberdeenshire. The salary is L.26. The school is attended by upwards of 100 scholars annually. No fees are charged ; and only the elementary branches of education are taught. Besides these, there are commonly two or three schools on the teachers' own adventure in remote corners of the parish. These are taught only during the winter season. One of these schools, 310 BAMPP8HIRB. in the Braes of Avon, is usually attended by from 40 to 50 child* reo. This portion of the parish is from seven to thirteen miles distant from the parish school and from two to eight miles from the schools of Tomintoul. The population of the Braes of Atod is 280 souls. Of these 70 are under twelve years of age. An ad- ditional school is much required in this station.* Library, — There is a small circulating library belonging to the quoad sacra parish of Tomintoul. It consists at present of 160 volumes, chiefly religious and historical. Friendly 5oci>^t>5.— -Various attempts were made some years ago to establish friendly societies in the parish and neighbourhood* but, being based on erroneous principles and under improper ma- nagement, none of them succeeded. There is no Savings bank in the parish, nor within twenty miles of it ; and it is not known that any of the population invest any of their earnings in any of these institutions at a distance. It is be- lieved that a Savings bank instituted in the parish, would be pro- ductive of great advantage, by inducing the labouring population to save their earnings, and make some provision for sickness and old age. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of persons receiving parochial aid is about 80. They receive from 5s. to L. 2 each annually. These allowances are very inadequate to the main- tenance of the poor, and much mora depends on the private bene- volence of the community than on the poor's funds for maintaining them. Such of them as are able, assist in supporting themselves by any industry of which ihey are capable. Others obtain supply by going from house to house, whilst those who are disabledby sickness or old age from doing any thing, are supported by the alms-givings of the neighbours sent into their houses. The following natives of the parish may be here mentioned : Miss Isabella Macpherson of Tomachlaggan, who, by her talents and industry, acquired a respectable rank and fortune in Edinburgh, and after making provision for all her relations, bequeathed L.350 to the poor of the parish, which laid the foundation of the hand- some permanent funds now belonging to the poor. Mr Eneas Ca- * These facts refer to the state of the Brses of Avon previous to the yeur 1839. Since then, more than half the population has been removed by the new system of enlarging the farmsi and many more will soon be removed from the same cause. This removal of the population removes also the necessity of any additional school in this district of the parish. KIRRMICHAEL. 811 iheroD of Balliolish, a partner of the North- West Company in Ame« rica, left considerable property to his relations, and destined L» 100 to the support of the poor. Messrs James and Gabriel Stewart of Cults amassed a handsome fortune by their business in Lon* don, and the former bequeathed L.1000 to the poor; and Mr George Gordon of Fodderletter, of whom honourable mention is made in the last Statistical Report, as a chemist and botanist, left L. 50 to the poor, which, under the provisions of his deed of settlement, has now accumulated to L. 155. Mr McDonald of Grantown also bequeathed L. 45 to the poor. The annual amount of contributions for the poor is about L.95. Of this sum there is about L.17 collected in the parish churches. Charitable donations make about L. 13 a year more. Of this sum, the Duke of Richmond has given L. 10 for the last few years. There is a fund of L.760, bequeathed by various benevolent indi- viduals belonging to the parish, which yields about L. 30 of year- ly interest ; and there is a sum of L.1000 in the hands of Wil- liam Forbes^ Stewart, Esq. of London, for which he pays about L.85 yearly interest. Two*thirds of the interest of this last sum is destined to the support of the Roman Catholic poor in the pa- rish, under the management of the Roman Catholic Priest, the other third is under the management of the kirk-session, for be- hoof of the Protestant poor. The spirit of independence and a desire to refrain from seeking parochial relief prevails to a considerable extent among the poor, but, it is believed, that, in proportion as the means of extending parochial aid to them are increased, this spirit of independence decreases. Owing to severe harvest frosts, the crops of 1836, 1837, and 1838, were almost complete failures, especially the crop of the year 1838; and it was found necessary, towards the beginning of 1839, to raise extraordinary supplies for the maintenance of the poor. On application to the committees in London and Glasgow for the management of a fund raised for the relief of the destitute in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, a grant of L.150 was obtained. This sum, aided by other sources, afforded the means of distributing 167^ bolls of meal in the parish, which relieved the necessities of 198 families. Prisons. — Any criminal offenders in this part of the country, of whom the number is happily very small, are sent to the county-jail 312 BANFFSHIRE. at Banff, a distance of about fifty miles. There is a lock-up«house in the village of Tomintoul, under the charge of a district consta- ble. But this place of safe keeping is comparatively useless, from the want of any resident magistrate, or efficient means of securing those disturbers of the public peace, who not unfrequently infest the village, and annoy the peaceful and well-inclined portion of the community. There are five markets held annually in Tomintoul, viz. on the last Friday of May, new style; on the last Friday of July, old style ; on the third Wednesday of August, old style ; on Friday after the second Tuesday of September, old style ; and on the second Friday of November, old style. These markets are principally for the sale of cattle and sheep, and engaging servanli^. Inn$, — There are four inns or public-houses in Tomintoul, and two in the country part of the parish. It is much to the credit of Mr Skinner, the Duke of Richmond's factor for this parish, that he strenuously opposes the indiscriminate licensing of dram-houses. FueL — The only description of fuel used in the parish is moss- peat. Miscellaneous Observations. The more striking variations betwixt the present state of the parish and that which existed at the time of the last Statistical Ac- count, exhibit considerable improvement in the state of society. The means of religious instruction and attendance on these means are greatly increased, as appears from the Sabbath collections made for the poor. These have increased about eightfold, or from L.2, 2s. 6^d. to about L.17. The total annual funds for the maintenance of the poor have increased fortyfold, or from Li.2, 2s* 6^d. to L.95. The population has increased more than one-third, and the attendance of children at school is fourfold, or from about 80 to 320. The minister's stipend is increased about four- fold, or from L.68, 6s. 8d. to an average of more than L.240, whilst he has less than half the charge. . The arable acres are increased from 1 550 to 2400, and the rent from about L. 1100 to L.2760. The permanent poor's funds have increased from L.5 to about L.1800. The parish is susceptible of considerable improvement, by means of planting the hills and moors, improving waste ground, enclosing the fields, and road-making. In this last particular, some- thing has been done within the last ten or twelve years, by open- ing up a line of internal communication along the banks of the CULLEN« 313 Avon, and another to the east by Glenlivat. Arrangements are also made by the Duke of Richmond for subdividing and en? closing the farms ; and as His Grace evinces a disposition to pro- mote the interests of his tenantry, and improve his extensive do- mains, it is expected that he will give orders to plant a considera? ble portion of the waste ground in the parish. j4pril 1842. PARISH OF CULLEN.* PRESBYTBRr OF FORDYCE, SYNOD OF ABERDEEN. THE REV. GEORGE HENDERSON, A.M., MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — The etymology of the name of this parish, as well as the historical origin of the royal burgh of Cullen, appear to be lost in the mist of antiquity. The legendary accounts prevalent in the parish, and even to be met with in the writings of some of the minor historians, are unworthy of notice. It was originally called Inveratlany being bounded on the north and west by the water of Cullen, which falls into the sea at the western extremity of the parish ; but it has long borne the name of CulaUj Culane^ or Cullen only. Extent and Boundaries, — The ecclesiastical parish consists of two parts, viz. Cullen proper, or Cullen quoad civilia^ and a por- tion of the neighbouring parish of Rathven, annexed to it qurad sacra. The former, which bears the form of a wedge, extends from north to south, in length about 1^ miles, and from east to west, in average breadth, nearly 1 mile, containing 684 imperial acres. The annexation from Rathven is about 3 miles in length, from east to west, and nearly 2 miles in breadth, from north to south. Cullen Proper is bounded on the north, by the Moray Frith ; on the south, by Rathven and Deskford ; on the east, by Fordyce ; and on the west, by Rathven. Topographical Appearances, — ^The topographical appearance of this parish presents the richest and most varied landscape of hill * The following sUtutics apply only to the parish of Cullen ])roper, unless where special refcrcuce is made to the annexation. 814 BANFFSHIRE. and dale, wood, water, and' highly cultivated 6elds, which is to be seen in the district. Along its shores, the rocks rise in precipitous grandeur, or are thrown up in rugged deforinity, to a very consi- derable height above the level of the sea. In some places, they are perpendicular, or nearly so ; in others, they are disrupted, and jut out into the water in fragments. Thence, the land rises by a gentle acclivity, on which the ancient barony of Ogilvie is situated, and which the Noble proprietors have been pleased to distinguish, by assuming its more modern name of Seafield, as their most ho- noured title. Advancing to the south, the land rises more abruptly, then gradually descends to the extreme boundary of Cullen pro- per. Here and there, in a gentle undulating manner, it forms it- self on the top into knolls or risings. From an elevated spot on Sea6eld farm, the view is most extensive and delightful. To the north-west, are seen the most prominent buildings of the new town of Cullen, pleasantly situated on the western acclivity of the hill adjacent to the sea, the sandy bay of Cullen, and the bold and precipitous headland of Scarnose, forming the western extre- mity of the bay, and the most northern point of land on this side the Moray Frith. In the back ground, the distant shores and dark blue mountains of Sutherland and Caithness, on the oppo- site side of the frith, are distinctly seen ; while the wide interven- ing expanse of sea, bespangled with trading vessels and 6shing- boats, adds greatly to the landscape. To the southward, are seen the richly cultivated fields of Cullen proper, and part of the arable lands of the annexation, also in the highest state of luxuriance ; the latter bounded by a dense and extensive forest, which imparts to the scene an aspect of the most picturesque beauty. The view in another direction is not less interesting. To the west and south-west, stands the Bin Hill, which is partly within the quoad sacra district of the parish, and forms the most conspicuous object in the district. It has two tops, the one considerably higher than the other, and presents to the eye of the spectator looking from the north, very much of the form of the lion couchant Its ele- vation above the sea is 1076 feet, and it serves as an excellent land-mark to navigators. About seventy years ago, it was planted with trees, which have thriven well, excepting towards the sum- mit, where the severity of the exposure bids defiance to vegetation of any kind, save heath. In the same direction, is seen the stately mansion of Cullen House, with its superb pleasure grounds. In CULLEN. 315 the back ground, the woods and plantations of the ancient barony of Rannes, in the parish of Rathven, meet the eye ; and in the distance, the bleak mountains of Inverness-shire shut up the view. Meteorology, — From its proximity to the sea, and the quality of its soil, the climate of this parish is cool and bracing. In win- ter, when the inland districts are covered with frosts and snow, it stands comparatively free from either, particularly the latter. This is to be attributed to the strong influence of the sea breezes, and the thorough draining which a great portion of the land has recently undergone. The season of spring is proverbially early, especially in the grounds around Cullen House, where the culti- vation is so high, and the shelter afforded by wood so complete, that the growth of trees and plants may almost be said to be un- interrupted during the whole year. In this parish, no disease is endemick ; its inhabitants are, on the whole, more healthy than those in the inland districts ; and it is frequently resorted to by in- valids, on account of the salubrity of its climate. There are pro- bably few places in Scotland more conducive to health and lon- gevity. The people are not liable to any prevailing distemper* £pidemicks are of very rare occurrence ; and when they do visit the district, are generally of a mild character. Many of the in- habitants live to the age of eighty-five and ninety ; and lately, two persons, natives of the parish, died, each at the patriarchal age of one hundred years and upwards. The Bin Hill, in the im- mediate vicinity, and the most prominent object in the district, acts as a never-erring barometer, its summit being invariably co- vered with mist, previous to rain or moist weather. The prevail- ing winds are, the north, north-east, and north-west. These are cold, but comparatively harmless to vegetation, except that from the north-west blowing violently, in the end of July and beginning of August, before the white crops have attained maturity ; its blighting effects sometimes occasioning considerable loss to the farmer. There is no thermometrical or barometrical table kept in the parish. The average annual fall of rain is 22^ inches. Hydrography. — The parish is bounded on the west and south by the water of Cullen, which rises in the heights of Deskford, and, proceeding in a northerly direction for a distance of about six miles, enters Cullen parish at its south-eastern boundary. By draining in its course the hollows of Deskford, it receives a considerable accession to its strength, and by the time it has 316 HANFPSniRF. reached Tocbieneal farm, has become a stream of considerable magnitude. Thence taking a north-westerly direction, it supplies the machinery of several works with water-power, and receives some additions in its progress, until it enters the policies of Cul- len House, of which it forms a highly ornamental feature. Sweep- ing the base of the perpendicular rock on which the mansion stands, it flows directly north for nearly a mile, and then enters the bay of Cullen. In the whole of its course, it has a very con- siderable velocity, and, by the time it has reached Cullen House^ has acquired a breadth, within its banks, of twenty feet. The water is clear and pure, and has long been used for the purposes of bleaching, &c. There are no remarkable springs in the pa- rish, with the exception of one at the farm of Tochieneal, which is strongly impregnated with sulphurated hydrogen. Its tempera* ture, February 22, 1842, was 40^ The other fountains, rising within the parish, are all used for culinary and domestic pur- poses. Geology and Mineralogy. — This parish exhibits no remarkable geological features. In length and breadth, it reposes on a single bed of stratified quartz, standing at an angle of from 50^ to 80% and which, again, reposes on a thick bed of compact graywacke, in a conformable position. The direction of the strata is from north-east to south-west, the dip being north-west and south-east. Adjacent to the harbour, the greywacke has assumed the slaty structure, and alternates with the quartz. In the flat sandy bay of Cullen, (situated in the quoad sacra district of the parish), there are three remarkable masses of insulated rock, called the '^ Three Kings."* The first, or most easterly, is formed of quartz, in small angular fragments, which, in some places, are loose, and in others appear cemented together by a ferruginous paste. The other two are composed of pudding-stone, or old red sandstone^ which appears to have been protruded through the surrounding strata. These masses of rock are of considerable height, and of different shapes, and being, moreover, formed of different mate* rials, have a very striking appearance on the flat surface of the plain on which they stand. The old red sandstone appears no* * The reason asatigned for the above name, is the legendary tale, that a Danish, ^ Scotch, and Norwegian King, met at this spot^ in order to settle their feuds by peraonal combat. Two were to fight, and the third was to be arbiter of the contest. It is said that the Danish King felli and that the Scotch King came oflT victorious. History, howerer, is siJent on the subject. CULLKN. 31T H'bere else within the parish. About half a mile to the westward, two patches of the new red or stratified sandstone, appear reposing, in a horizontal position, on the disrupted edges of the greywacke* The upper or diluvial beds are shingle, clay, &C Near Tochie- neal Cottage, at the southern boundary of the parish, there is an extensive bed of fine lias clay, containing ammonites, belemnites, and other petrifactions common to the lias formation, and which can be traced over a considerable portion of the southern part of the parish. This clay having been by the plough mixed with the vegetable mould, has rendered the soil uncommonly productive. No erratic or rolled blocks have been seen, either in the interior of the parish, or along its shores, different from the rocks in situ ; Dor, with the above-mentioned exception, have any petrifactions or veins of metal been ever found. Botany, — The parish of Cullen, throughout its ecclesiastical extent, possesses a highly interesting and most extensive Flora. With variety of soil and exposure, it comprehends hill and dale, wood, water, and sea coast. It is matter of regret, however, that this interesting field for botanical research has never, to the know- ledge of the writer, been examined with that industry and atten- tion which it so well deserves, and seldom indeed at all, save by the passing- stranger. Yet, notwithstanding this desideratum, the writer is enabled to notice several plants comparatively rare in the district. Subjoined also are the names of some of the more common, which are particularly remarkable for luxuriance of growth, and beauty of flower. Along the sloping sides of the Bin hill, many alpine plants are to be found, among which may be noticed : Anemone apennina Vaccinium Tttis^idaea Rubus chamsmorus. Hyacinthiu non-soriptus royrtillus Vaccinium oxycocoos Oxalis acetosella Towards the base of the Bin hill, and in the lower grounds, are found : Adoza moacbatellina Circaa alpina Juniperus communis Ainufl glutinosa Digitalis purpurea Lamium album Borago officinalis Geranium pratense Trientalis Europsa. Campanula latifolia Iris pseudacorus Along the coast and sea shore are found : Carez arenaria Laminaria digitata Porpbyra ladniala Paeus esculentus Lanrentia pinnati6da Rhodomenia palmata- Heltanthemum vulgare Plantago coronopus Sakola kali. | 318 BANFFSHIRi:. The holly (Ikx aquifolium) is remarkably abundant in the pa- rish, and apparently indigenous.* II. — Civil History. Historical Events. — It is well known, that the piratical Danes, who long had the mastery of the seas, continued for se?eral cen- turies to desolate the coasts of Scotland, and to prove a per* petual scourge to the country. Although their incursions and depredations are involved in much obscurity, yet the scattered notices and traditionary accounts handed down to the present time, leave no doubt of their predatory inroads along the shores of the Moray Frith. In Buchanan's History of Scotland it is recorded, that the Danes, after having made an unsuccessful at- tempt to land on the coast of Buchan, proceeded farther west* ward, and put ashore at the mouth of the burn or water of CuUen* Thither Indulfus, who then held the sceptre of Scotland, march- ed at the head of his army to oppose their progress, and a bloody battle ensued between the Scotch and their Danish invaders. The scene of the conflict is denominated by the above historian <* a woody valley ;" and many tumuli have been dug up throughout this locality, where now are situated the splendid mansion of the Noble family of Seafield, and the beautiful grounds surrounding it* The most deadly arena of the conflict, however, appears to have been a spot a little farther west^ on the moor of Ranna^ chie, or Baads of CuUen ; and the action which took place here, is known and currently spoken of as ** the Battle of the Baad&" The place is thickly studded with tumuli in every direc- tion, and these on being opened are always found to contain de- cayed bones, fragments of arms, &c Upon this occasion, the Danes were routed, and put to flight ; but the brave monarch In- dulfus was killed by an arrow, while at the head of his troops pursuing the enemy, anno 960. One division of the Danes, it is said, fled to Mortlach, where there was an encampment of their countrymen; another took the road to Forfar, where they were again defeated ; and a few of their scattered number endeavoured to regain their ships. This was a decisive victory gained by the Scotch, and is supposed to be among the last battles fought with * An acoomplish^ aad ingenious friend has suggested thepossibilitjr of the nania of the parish haviog been derived from this rery circumstance, the name of the holly in the Gaelic language being CuUeoim, or, as pronounced by the common people ia districts where Gaelic is spoken, CouRon—Cullen? 4 CULt^EN, 319 the Danes, previous to their total expulsion from the kingdom, about the year 1014. There is a very distinct tradition in the parish, the truth of which there seems no cause to dispute, but, on the contrary, strong reason to credit, that Queen Elizabeth, consort of Robert L, died at an occasional residence near to where CuUen House now stands, and that ^^ her bowels are erded, i. e. buried, in our Lady Kirk of CuUen." The circumstance of King Robert having endowed a chaplain to pray for the soul of his consort, Queen Elizabeth, in the church of Cullen, affords strong presumptive evidence in favour of the truth of the tradition. The question naturally suggests itself, What could have brought Queen Elizabeth to Cullen ? To this the most probable answer is, that, as she had a daughter married to the tlien Earl of Sutherland, she had come on a visit to her daughter ; and as the family of Sutherland had at that period considerable pro- perty in the }k>yn and Enzie, that the Queen, at the time of her death, might have been the guest of some of their friends or rela- tives in that quarter. The town of Cullen had its share of the troubles to whi'Gf^ ^ Scotland was subjected in the days of the Covenanters, having- been repeatedly plundered by the Marquis of Montrose, and after- wards burnt On the 4th March 1645, Montrose, with the body of his army, had stationed himself at the Bog of Gight, ^^ and sent beforehand over Spey the Farquharsons of Brae of Mar, to plunder the town of Cullen, pertaining to the Earl of Findlater, which they did pitifully." A short time thereafter, ** Montrose marches frae the Bog to the plac% of Cullep of Boyn, the Earl of Findlater having fled south himself before to Edinburgh, leaving in thir dangerous days (pitiful to behold) his lady behind him. This stately house, well decored with stately insight and plenishing, and furnished with silver plate and all other necessaries, was pitifully plundered, and nothing tursable left ; and then was beginning to raise fire, but the lady pitifully besought Montrose (now in her hus- band's absence) to forbear firing of her ground, but for the space of fifteen days, within the whilk time, if her husband came not to give satisfaction, that then his Lordship should do as pleased him best ; and for this peace of fifteen days time, she promised twenty thousand merks, whereof she paid in hand five thousand merks. Montrose granted her desire upon the conditions foresaid, and raised no fire on the Earl of Findlater's grounds (albeit a great Covenanter) at this BANFF. X 320 BANFFSHIRE. time."* From what has been stated^ it might be supposed, that our good town of Cullen would have been spared from farther violence. Such, however, was not the case ; for, about the middle of May in the same year, Montrose sent a party of his troops to Cullen, and burnt the whole town to the ground, first plundering and carrying off every thing valuable, then consuming the remainder in one common blaze; and, doubtless, many of the aged, infirm, and helpless, fell victims to the devouring element. Family ofFindlater and Seqfield. — This noble and ancient &• mily is descended from Gilchrist, a man of high rank, and a fa- vourite of King Malcolm Canmore, whom that monarch created Earl of Angus. He lived after the year 1120, and was among the first in Scotland upon whom the title of Earl was conferred. His son, Gilibrede, the second Earl of Angus, was a great war-* rior, and lived in the reigns of David L, Malcolm IV., and Wil- liam the Lion. He had six sons, of whom Gilbert, the third, was ancestor of the present family of Seafield. He was a man of great abilities ; and, agreeably to the custom of these early times^ .assumed his name from his lands of Ogilvie, viz. Gilbert de Ogilvie. f Sir Walter Ogilvie of Auchleven, the eighth in direct lineal de- scent from the aforesaid Gilbert de Ogilvie, and second son of Sir Walter Ogilvie of Lin trethan, Lord High Treasurer of Scotland in 1425, married, in 1437, Margaret, daughter and heiress of Sir John Sinclair of Deskford and Find later, who was killed at the battle of Harlaw, in 1411. The baronies thus acquired by Sir Walter Ogilvie of Auchleven became the chief titles of his family ; and, in accordance with ancient usage in such cases, he quartered the arms of Sinclair of Deskford with his paternal coat of Ogilvie. In 1440, he obtained two charters, under the Great Seal, of the lands and baronies of Deskford, Findlater, &c. Sir Walter Ogilvie of Deskford and Findlater, the sixth in direct lineal descent froni * Spalding's History. \ The following is the reason, assigned by some historians, for Gilbert changing his name to that of Ogilvie: — The Gilchrists having unfortunately incurred the re- sentment of their sovereign, were, in oonsequenee, long subjected to the losa of the royal favour. The king one day, in Uiking the diversion of hunting, imprudent- ly separated himself from his retinue, and was attacked by a band of robbers. At that critical moment the Gilchruts made their appearance, and, having dispersed the robbers, had the good fortune to rescue the king; upon which, the differences formerly existing between them weie immediately made up ; the king intimating tn them, thnt he would grant them, without reserve, whatever favour they chose to ask ; but adding, at the 8a:ne time, a condition, that, for the future, they should hold and bear the name of Ogilvie; a.s tl)c monarch in his wrath had previously sworn, that no man, within his kingdpm, should l>e suffered to live, and bear the name 9f pilchriM. CULLEN. 321 the aforesaid Sir Walter Ogilvie of Auchleven, was a nmn of great abilities, and a favourite of James VL, by whom he was raised to the dignity of the Peerage, and created Lord Ogilvie of Desk- ford, October 4, 1616. His son and heir, James, second Lord Ogilvie, was created Earl of Findlater by Charles L, 20tb Febru- ary 1638, by patent to the heirs-male of his body; but, having no male issue, he obtained a new patent, Idth October 1641, in fa- vour of Sir Patrick Ogilvie of Inchmartin, who had married bis eldest daughter, Elizabeth. This St Patrick became second Earl of Findlater, and died 1658^ leaving an only son, James, third Earl, who died 171 1, and was succeeded by his son James, fourth Earl, K. T., the celebrated lawyer and statesman, who, during his father's lifetime, was created, 28th June 1698, Viscount SeaGeld, and, 24th June 1701, Earl of Seafield, Viscount of Reidhaven, with remainder, on failure of male issue of his body, to his other lieirs of entail. He died 1730, and was succeeded by his son and heir, James, fifth Earl of Findlater, and second Earl of Seafield, who died 1764, leaving the following issue, viz, a son, James, by whom he was succeeded, and two daughters, Margaret and Ann, the former married to Sir Ludovick Grant of Grant, Bart^ the latter to John second Earl of Hopetoun. James the sixth Earl of Find- later, and third Earl of Seafield, died 1770, and was succeeded by bis son and heir, James, seventh Earl of Findlater, and fourth Earl of Seafield; on whose death, without issue, 1811, the EarU dom of Findlater, which was limited to the heirs«male of the body of the first Earl, became extinct ; but the Earldom of Seafield, and the other titles created by the patent of 1701, together with the whole of the family estates, devolved on his cousin. Sir Lewis Alexander Grant of Grant, Bart., son of Sir James Grant of Grant, Bart, and grandson of Sir Ludovick Grant of Grant, Bart, and his wife, Margaret, elder daugltter of James, fifth Earl of Findlater, and second Earl of Seafield. Sir Lewis Alexander Grant, fifth Earl of Seafield, assumed the name of Ogilvie, and died 1840, without issue. He was succeeded by his brother, the Honourable Francis William Grant, the sixth and present Earl of Seafield, who has male issue. The house of Seafield is lineally connected with the following noble families : Aberdeen, Airly, Athol, Banff, Buchan, Caith^ ness, Egliuton, Elphinstone, Fife, Glencairn, Gray, Hamilton, Hopetoun, Huntly, Kinnoul, Lauderdale, Lovat, Morton, Oli- phant, Rothes, Saltoun. Chief seaU ; CuUen House, Banffshire ; 322 BANFFSHIRE* Castle Grant and Balimacaan, Inverness-shire ; Grant Lodge, Morayshire. Eminent Characters. — Under this head, the name of James fourth Earl of Findlater and first Earl of Seafield, claims a special notice. This distinguished statesman and eminent lawyer was born in 1664. In 1689, he was chosen member of the Conven- tion of Estates for the burgh of Cullen, in which capacity he ob- tained much celebrity, by a remarkable speech in favour of King James VII., and by being one of the five members who dissented from the act for forfeiting that monarch. Contrary to what might have been expected, his firmness and fidelity to his former sove- reign had not the effect of injuring him in the eyes of James's suc- cessor ; for, after the government was settled in favour of William, he became a special favourite of his Majesty. In 1693, being an eminent lawyer, he was appointed Solicitor for the Crown, She- riff of Banff, and, at the same time, received the honour of kniglit- hood. In 1695, he was appointed Secretary of State. In 1698 he was appointed President of the Parliament, and was, at the same time, created Viscount Seafield. In 1700, he held the erf"- fice of his Majesty^s Commissioner to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, and was thrice afterwards preferred to the same dignity, viz. in 1708^ 1724, and 1727. In 1701, he was created Earl of Seafield. He continued Secretary of State dur- ing all King William's reign ; and, upon the accession of Queen Anne, he filled the same department, until November 1702, wheo he was appointed Chancellor. In 1703, he was created a Knight of the Thistle. In 1704, he was again appointed Secretary of State, and likewise presided in Parliament. In the same year, he was appointed Chancellor for the second time, in which office bo continued until the Union was completed, having been first Com- missioner for Scotland at the treaty of Union, and presided in the Scottish Parliament which ratified it* After the Union, he was * It is a somewlmt remarkable circumstance, that, although his Lordahip was majli^ ly instrumental in promoting the Union, it was, nevertheless, in imminent danger of being dissolved, several years aiter the act was passed, through the instrumentality of the same individual. When the Malt- Tax was extended to Scotland, his Lordship was so irritated at the measure, considering it an infringement of the articles of Union, that, in the House of Lords, Ist June 1713, be laid open the grievances of the Scottish nation, which he reduced to four heads, viz. 1. The being deprived of a Privy- Council ; 2. The extension of the treason laws of England to Scotland ; 8. The Peers of Scotland being incapacitated from being created Peers of Great Bri- uin ; and, 4. The Scots being subjected to the Malt Tax, which would be tfae'mori» insupportable to them now, in that they never bore it during the war, and had reason to expect the benefits of a peace,— concluding, that, since the Union had not been productive of those good effects which were expected^ he moved, that leave be given CULLEN. 323 appointed Chief Baron of tbe Court of Exchequer in Scotland, and a member of the Privy* Council. He was chosen one of the sixteen Peers in the first British Parliament, and was repeatedly re*elected to the same honour. In 1713, he was again appointed Chancellor, and Keeper of tbe Great Seal in Scotland ; and dur* ing all the periods in which he held the office of Chancellor, he presided in the Court of Session. As a Senator of the College of Justice, he is recorded to have displayed consummate eloquence, great legal abilities, and a peculiar talent of dispatch in business. His Lordship died in 1730, in the sixty-sixth year of his age. There have been few men, to whom his country has been so deeply indebted, considered in the character of a peaceful patriot, as to James sixth Earl of Findlater and third Earl of Seafield, born 1714. To that distinguished individual, appertained the ex- clusive merit, of introducing into the north of Scotland, those im- provements in agriculture,* manufactures, and all kinds of useful to bring in a bill for dissolving it, and securing the Protestant succession in the House of Hanover, presenring tbe Queeti*s prerogative in both kingdooMy and an entire amity and good correspondence betwixt England and Scotland. His Lord- 8hip*s motion was put to tlie vote : 108 Peers were in tbe House, who were equally divided, viz. 54 for the motion, and 54 against it ; 13 proxies voted for and 17 against the motion, leaving a majority of only 4 out of 138,-— so narrowly did the Union escape a iatal blow from the hands of the individual who had been so instrumental in promoting it. * The following may serve as a specimen of the important services, rendered by his Lordship, to the cause of agriculture in Banffshire. *^ The agriculture of this •county stood in the most forlora state, till about tlie year 1754, when the late Earl of Findlater, then Lord DcsLford, to whose unremitting exertions are to be asciibed the introduction of improvements in agriculture, as well as manufactures, in this country, came to reside in the neighbourhood of Banff; and, having taken one of his farms into his own possession, set about cultivating it in the most approved manner then known in England ; and for that purpose engaged, one after another,^ tliree of the most experienced overseers irom that kingdom, and, in a few years, improved the farms of Craigherbs, in the parish of Boyndie, and CoUeenard, in the parish of Banff, as well as the fields about bis princely seat of CuUen House, in a style and manner then unknown in this part of the country. But his Lordship was sensible, that, however succemful he might be in the cultivation of (arms in his own possession, it was not probable, that this success would operate so powerfully on the minds of his tenants, as to induce them, without some substantial reasons, to venture on untried experiments, or to leave the beaten paths in which they and their fathers had trod fur ages. He therefore formed and executed a plan, which did great credit to his judg- ment, and which has had the good effect of awakening that spirit of improvement which has now become general over the district, at least among the proprietors and more respectable farmers. His Lordsliip selected some of tlie most intelligent, active, and substantial tenants in the country, to whom he granted leases on reasonable term% for two nineteen years and a lifetime, of farms fonncrly occupied by three or four te« nants. By these leases, the tenant became bound under a penalty, which was insert- ed in the lease, to enclose and subdivide a certain portio.i of the farm with stone fences, or ditch and hedge, during the first nineteen years of the leose, and in tbe course of the second nineteen years, to enclose the remainder. They were also bound to summer fallow, and sow grass seeds on a certain number of acres, within the first five years of the lease. His Lordship had also Uie merit of being the first to intro- duce the turnip- husbandry, and, by his example, as well as precept, during his fre- quent excursions among his tenants, was the means of bringing the cultivation of that 324 BANFFSHIRE. industry, which, in the space of a few years, raised his country from a state of semi-barbarism to a degree of civilization, equal to that of the most improved districts of the south. His Lordship completed an excellent education by foreign travel, which emi- nently quali6ed him for the distinguished part he was destined to act in the field of philanthropy. In 1754, he was appointed one of the Commissioners of Customs in Scotland ; and in 1765, was constituted one of the Lords of Police. He was one of the trus- tees for the improvement of fisheries and manufactures, and for the management of the forfeited estates in Scotland ; and attended to the business of these boards with the most exemplary zeal and assiduity. Enthusiastic in his desire to benefit his native land, the prime object of his ambition, he conversed much with and greatly honoured men of letters and persons of ingenuity in every profession, always endeavouring to convert whatever knowledge he by such means acquired, to the improvement of his country. In these truly patriotic pursuits, he succeeded to an extent altogether unparalleled in the annals of industrial improvements ; and his name is still a household word over the north of Scotland, being regarded as that of a man who, in his day and generation, proved crop, as vreW as other green crops, by degrees, into general practice. Although his Lordship well knew the baneful effects of exacting services from his tenants, he had them bound, in proportion to the sise of their respective farms, to send their sons or servants, a certain number of days, to assist in the hand-hoeing of his own turnips, for the express purpose of teaching them to do this work, in a proper manner, on the other (arms of his estate. So averse were the men, at that time, to this kind of work, that they expected to get free from it, by giving the overseer cause to complain, that they were doing it in a slovenly manner. His Lordship, however, was not to be de- ceived or disappointed in his favourite scheme, and immediately directed, that, until they could do a sufficient day's work in a proper manner, they must make it up, by serving more days than was stipulated for. By this means, it will easily be imagined, his Lordship gained his much- wished for object, and the business of turnip-hoeing was, in a few years, very well performed all over his estate. « It is not to be expected» that any general improvement in the modes of agriculture can be introduced all at once, or that the inhabitants of a country will, on a sudden, give up their old habits and ways of thinking. They must be induced to do so, either from the advantage which they«are satisBed they will derive, in consequence of mak- ing new arrangements with the proprietors, or from a conviction in their own minds, that the experiments of their more adventurous neighbours have proved successful and advantageous ; and, therefore, in this new state of things, it was no wonder, not- withstanding Lord Findlater's unwearied exertions, that many years elapsed, before fallow, sowing grass and turnip, and other green crops, came into general practice, even in that quarter of his estate, which may be said to have had the advantage of his personal superintendence. But the tenants being at last satisfied, that the improve- ments introduced by his Lordsliip were such as, if adopted by them, would promote their interest, they set about making experiments, which having, in every instance} \exceeded expectation, the spirit of improvement began to gain ground, and, as a na^ tural consequence, his Lordship*s example was followed by the uther proprietors, and by many of the more intelligent farmers in other parts of the country. In a short pe- riod, the system of agriculture, the circumstances of the tenants, and the general ap- pearance of the country, became greatly changed."— Original Report of the Agri« culture ol Banflsliire, with M>me alterations. CULLEN. 325 himself one of the most substantial benefactors of his species. His Lordship died at CuUen House, dd November 1770, in the fifty-* sixth year of his age. Sir James Clark, Bart., First Physician to Her Majesty, is a native of this parish ; and, at the parochial school of the neigh- bouring pari2^h of Fordyce, received the elements of that educa- tion, which, by successful cultivation, has deservedly raised him to the highest professional eminence. Although he has been long absent from the place of his nativity, he has uniformly evinced a lively interest in its welfare, by frequent and substantial acts of be* neticence ; and to his friendship, not a few of his countrymen have been mainly indebted, for their prosperity in life. Land^awner, — The Earl of Seafield is proprietor of the whole parish, with the exception of nine and a half Scotch acres, mortified for charitable and educational purposes. There are few parishes in Scotland so fortunate in their proprietary as CuUen. His Liord- ship, who resides chiefly at CuUen House, deservedly sustains the character of a patriot and philanthropist, in the true and proper meaning of the terms ; evincing the most lively interest in the im< provements not only of the lands in his own natural possession, but in every part of his princely estates, and stimulating the exertions of his tenantry, by the most liberal yet judicious encouragement. Parochial Registers. — These have been well preserved, and are in good order. With the exception of a hiatus of eight years, viz. from 1762 to 1770, the records of the kirk-session contain an un- interrupted history of its proceedings, from 1640 down to the pre- sent time. The register of baptisms and marriages commences in 1682, and is quite complete from that date. Antiquities, — On the eastern bank of the water of Cullen, and overhanging the Sea-town, an eminence, called the Castle hill, rises in a conical form, to the height of upwards of 200 feet above the level of the sea« In remote ages, it appears to have been crowned with a vitrified castle or fort, which had been guarded by a triple wall and ditch. These have long since been demolished, but traces of them are yet distinctly visible. This castle, like many others along the coast, has been the subject of much specu- lation among antiquaries and historians. They appear to have been, in general, situated upon promontories, mountains, and other lofty eminences. Their massive walls were cemented with vitrid matter, (instead of lime), which is alleged to have been produced by a powerful heat and flux, (perhaps kelp), and which, falling 826 BANFFSHIRE. into the crevices of the building, so effectually united the whole, that the remains of the cement, which are occasionally to be found, appear to be almost as strong as the solid rock. These for- tresses appear to have been occupied by the chiefs and proprie* tors of the adjacent soil, as places of safety, in those barba^ rous and unsettled times, which rendered such erections neces- sary. It is traditionally reported, that this castle was original ly the residence of the proprietors of Cullen and the adjacent grounds ; and if such were the case, it is not improbable that the Queen of Robert de Bruce may have died in it. A far- ther tradition respecting it (there being no record whatever) is, that it was a military fortress, occupied by the Scottish forces about the time of the invasion of the Danes, and when an enemy appeared, the inhabitants of Cullen carried their roost valuable ar- ticles into the castle for safety. Before the use of cannon, the Castle-hill was extremely well situated for warlike operations, being inaccessible from the north by an almost perpendicular rock of 1 70 feet in height. Ecclesiastical History and ArUiquiHes. — The present parish church was originally dedicated to St Mary, and is of considera- ble antiquity. The following is ah excerpt from an unpublished manuscript, entitled, " A view of the Diocese of Aberdeen i^ " Church of Saint Mary of Cullen. This church was founded by Robert I.i and it is said that the bowels of his Queen Elizabeth are buried here. This church had a provost., six prebends, and two singing boys, founded by Alexander Ogilvie of that Ilk, pre- decessor of the Earl of Findlater, Mr Alexander Dick, Archbishop of Glasgow, John Duff of Muldavit, ancestor of Lord Fife, with all the magistrates of Cullen, an. 1.543. This foundation was con- firmed by William Bishop of Aberdeen, the same year^ and by John Archbishop of St Andrews, legat a latere^ 1552. Each of the clergy was to have twenty merks yearly in lands and money, toge- ther with an apartment and garden. For this end, they had se- veral crofts allotted to them^in the town, together with the vicarage of Rathven, with all the privileges belonging to the burghers of Cullen." Agreeably to the above statement regarding the foun- dation of the church of Cullen, it appears from the charter of the burgh, that ^^ Robert of Bruce, King of the Scotch, granted and gave in gift for ever, L. 5 of the money of the kingdom, (/. e, 8s. 4d. Sterling,) for the support of a chaplain in the parish church of ffie blessed Mary, of our burgh of Ctillen, always to pray for CULLEN. 327 the soul of the most serene Princess Queen Elizabeth, consort of the same King Robert/' Mfmuments. — The church of Cullen, having been, for many ages, the burying- place of the Findlater and Seafield family, con- tains several ancient monuments of a very elegant description. The chief of these is a monument (1554) to the memory of Alex- ander Ogilvie, Baron of Findlater, and his wife, Elizabeth Gordon, which, in point of Gothic excellence and grandeur of design, is perhaps inferior to none in Europe of a corresponding age.* A superb monument to the memory of John Duff of Muldavat, re* presenting the 6gure of an armed warrior recumbent, was remov* ed in 1790, along with the supposed ashes of the deceased, from the family burying -place in the church of Cullen, and deposited in the mausoleum in Duff House Park. The aforesaid John Duff, who had his residence near to where the present mansion of Cul- len House stands, on the opposite side of the water of Cullen, was a reputed ancestor of the Fife family, and died in 1404. In the southern aisle of the church, are some curious foundation inscrip* tions, well worthy the attention of the antiquary. Cullen House. — Culien House, the principal residence of the Earl of Seafield, is situated in the parish of Cullen proper, at the distance of six furlongs from the town. It is an ancient and state- ly structure, consisting of several irregular masses of unadorned building, erected at different periods, the oldest of which is, in all probability, coeval with the erection of the present parish church, (in the fourteenth century,) to which it appears to have been ori- ginally attached as a monastic edifice. It contains many magnifi- * This monument is thus described in Cordiner's Antiquities of North Britain :— . ** The splendid enrichments that crown the pyramidal columns, have a very elegant and beautiful effect llie bas reliefe are well raised, and minutely finislied. 1'he figures of the entombed, in devotional attitudes, are well rounded and correctly drawn. Tiie sculptures of the central and interior part, according to the ideas oi early ages, have most learned and sublime allusion. Two angels guarding an altar- piece, on which the virtues of the deceased are Inscribed, suem to call the dead, re- presented by a skeleton laid ander the altar, to appear before the tribunal of the Most High, expressed by a hieroglyphic above. * The Ancient of Days sat on the clouds of Heaven, and they came near before him to judgment,' was the bold imagery by which the prophet Daniel pointed out the things that must be hereafter. The well-known symbol here on the tomb of this omb, upholding the globe in his arm, implies the Intellectual Power and Wisdom which is the origin and support of Creation. The attitude of Benediction and the Triple Crown, though seemingly uf more modern allusion, yet, in the Egyptian wisdom, refer lo the Three Great At- tributes of Deity, and the Supreme pronouncing a bles&ing on his works. The pil- lars of Heaven, expressed by columns supporting an arch, rest on the cloud, and a circumambient vine. From thai arch, diverging rays are spread, in which a Dove is descending, and they beam on the Cross that rises over the Globe, tlie most anci^it and venerable symbols of the Universal Benignity of the Uncreated Light of the World, manifesting the Divine Favour to Man." 328 BANFFSHIRE. cent apartments, furnished in the first style of elegance. It i^ picturesquely elefatedon a perpendicular rock, along the southern t>ase of which, the water of Cullen, which aniuiates the beautiful landscape, passes here within a hollow rocky channel, sixty-four feet deep beneath the mansion walls. Over this current, a hand* some single-arched stone bridge, of eighty-four feet span, connects the woods, parks, gardens, and pleasure-grounds with the man- sion. The plantations, within the umbrageous recesses of which the mansion is embowered, consist of a great variety of valuable wood, beneath the shady foliage of which, an excellent carriage* road, besides many delightful serpentine footpaths, winds by easy acclivities to the summit of the Bin hill, whence there is an ex- tensive view of the surrounding country and opposite coast. The pleasure-grounds are upwards of ten square miles in extent, and present to the eye a range of scenery, which, for richness, variety, and picturesque beauty, is not surpassed by any policy in Scot- land. Here nature has done much, and the embellishments of art, have been liberally bestowed from time to time, by the No- ble proprietors, especially by the present Earl, whose accurate and refined taste has been most successfully exercised, in adding to the attractions of this magnificent residence. In Cullen House, there is an elegant and extensive library, consisting of many thousand volumes in the several departments of literature and science ; and the walls of the principal apartments are adorned with a great va* riety of valuable paintings, many of them by the first masters. The gardens, vineries, &c. are upon a scale of grandeur, corre- sponding to the dignity and opulence of the Noble proprietor, and for beauty of arrangement and luxuriance in the growth of rare and costly plants and fruits, are unrivalled in the north of Scotland. Modem Buildings. — The only modern building deserving of no- tice is the Cullen Hotel, attached to which, and under the same roof, but with a separate entrance, are three public rooms, viz. an elegant ball-room, 43^ feet in length, and 23 in breadth ; a com- modious court-room, in which are held the sheriff and justice of peace courts ; and the council-room of the burgh, a handsome apart- ment of a circular form, 23^ feet in diameter and 16 feet in height. The entire building was erected in 1822, at the expense of the Right Honourable the Earl of Seafield, and cost L. 3000. It is situated at the public square, and adds much to the appear- ance of the town. €ULLRN. 329 III. — Population. In 1791, the population was 1214 1801, . . 1076 181 1» . . J070 1821, . 1452 1831, . . 1593 184U 1564 The following is an abstract Parliamentary census of ihc eccle- viasticiil parish taken in 1841 : — Houses un- inhabit. Houses inhabit. No. rf fiimilies. No. of males. No. of Pemales. Parish of CuUen proper, vii. ^^ Town of Cullen, 8 169 186 332 380 712 Seatowo of Ditto; . 3 167 176 313 397 710 Rural district, . •«• 29 29 66 76 142 1 iT 365 391 711 853 1364 Part of the parish of Rathven annexed quoad tacra to CuU lec, viz. Village of Portknockie, . 6 162 166 837 3P8 7l>5 Rural district, 1 65 65 170 163 3:i3 9 227 231 507 551 1058 Total amount of the population of the ecclesiastical parish, . 26'22 The following statistics apply to the ecclesiastical parish, con- sisting of Cullen proper, and the annexation from Rathven quoad sacra : Yearly average of legitimate births for the last seven years, 82 illegitimate, .... 3 Yearly average of marriai^es for the last seven years, - 20 Average number of children by each marriage, a fraction less than - 34 persons in each family, . . 4^ Number of insane, - - • - 2 fatuous, - - - 5 blind, .... 2 deaf and dumb, - - - 1 The following is an accurate classiBcation of the population of Cullen proper, with respect to professional employment, &c. Jkpotheciiry, . 1 Crofters, . 40 Bachelors above 50 years of age, 1 1 Dressmakers and seamstresses, 28 Banker, 1 Farmers of upwards of L.50 yearly Bakers, . . 6 rent, 4 Blacksmiths, 12 Feuars, . 56 Boat-builders, . 22 Fishermen, 60 Brewers, . . 4 Flesher, 1 Carters, . 10 Gamekeepers, . 2 Clergyman, 1 Gardeners, • 12 Clerks, . 3 Innkeepers, . 2 Commander, R. N. . 1 .Justices of peace, • .7 CoopcDt, ... «!) Female day-labourers, » 34 BANFFSHIRE. 07 Male domestic servants. 16 17 Female farm senrants, 5 2 Male Ann servants. 34 2 Ship-owners. 3 9 Shoemakers, 27 19 Slaters, 3 2 Kolicitor-at-law, I 1 Tailors, 17 3 Female teachers, 6 1 Male do. 2 3 Tinsmiths, • 4 1 Toll>keeper, 1 10 Watsh- makers. 2 2 Weavers, 5 1 Widowers, 27 3 Widows, 84 1 Women unmarried above 45*years 4 ofage. 87 3 Cart-wrights, 10 1 Square-wrightS| . 25 32 Wheel.wright, 1 70 3*^0 Male day-labourers, IVIasons, . Medical practitioners, Coal- merchants, Meal-merchants, Merchants or shopkeepers, Millers, • Nailer, Officers of excise, Officer of fishery. Sheriff-officers, Peer, Pensioners, Plasterers, Postmaster, • Publicans, Resident landed proprietor. Rope-makers, Saddlers, . • Sail-maker, Sawyers, Female domestic servants, Character and Condition of die People, — The parishioners may be characterized as in general, intelligent, moral, peaceable, and industrious; possessing much natural affection, warm-hearted, and benevolent towards their poorer brethren, plain and unaffect* cd in their manners, frank and sincere in their intercourse with others, obliging and neighbourly among themselves. They are possessed of a due share of the proverbial shrewdness of the north. Divine ordinances are greatly respected ; the Sab- bath is devoutly observed ; and there are few parishes in which the people are so unanimous in their attachment to the national church. There being, at all times, abundance of employment in the various departments of industry and good wages, the labouring classes enjoy a competent share of the comforts of life, and, from the ample provision made for the wants of the poor, abject pover- ty may be said to be a stranger to the parish. Like Scotchmen in general, the parishioners are strongly attached to the place of their nativity. Not a few of the present generation, who, in their youth, friendless and penniless, left the parish to push their way in the world, have realized handsome fortunes. In consequence of the fluctuations to which his calling is liable, it is impossible to calculate precisely a flsherman's annual gains ; but judging from personal observation, and the best information, the writer has no hesitation in stating it as his decided conviction, that there are comparatively few of the working classes in Scot- land, whose labours are so amply remunerated, as those of the fishermen on this coast ; and that with ordinary economy, every CULLEN. x331 family among them may enjoy in abundance the comforts of life. The almost invariable.] habit which prevails, of intermarrying with those of their own craft, and the no less general practice which obtains, of every fisherman's son following his father's oc« cupation, prove very serious drawbacks to the progress of this or- der of the community in the march of improvement ; having the effect of rendering them a distinct class of society, with senti- ments, sympathies, and habits peculiar to themselves. Until some amalgamation shall take place between them and their brethren of terra Jtrma^ their advancement in the improvements of civilized life must necessarily be slow and partial. Habits and Amu8ement8.^'^\ieTe is no marked peculiarity in the habits of the people, as regards language, dress, or mode of living. The names more peculiar to the parish, and of old- est standing are, Anderson, Coul, Davidson, Finluy, Forsyth, Gardiner, Hay, Ogilvie, Runcie, Simpson, Strahan, and Wright. In consequence of the frequent identity of Christian and surnames among the fishing population, caused by intermarriages, certain extra names are used to distinguish individuals. Thus, there are several heads of families of the respective names of Alexander Ad- dison, James Addison, and William Addbon, who are thus dis- tinguished, viz. Alexander Addison, Saunders ; Alexander Addi- son, Kitit^s Saunie ; Alexander Addison, Drodlie ; James Addi- son, Kittys Jamesy ; James Addison, Tatiejiddler ; James Addi- son, Bubhlie ; William Addison, Sheepie ; William Addison, Boatie* row ; William Addison, Calkinapin ; William Addison, May's fVUsie. Snuffing and smoking are almost universal among the la- bouring classes. Smuggling, which at one time[^prevailed so exten- sively in the district, owing to the facilities which its proximity to the sea afforded for the traffic in foreign contraband goods, is now altogether unknown ; and from the vigilance exercised for the preservation of game, poaching may be considered asjn a great measure impracticable. In former times, at Halloween, Christmas, and 'other holidays, when our manufactories were in their most flourishing state, the younger part of the community resorted to the sands and links of the bay of CuUen, for the purpose of playing foot-ball, running foot races, throwing the hammer, playing bowls, &c. They left the town in procession, pieceded by a piper and other music, and were attended by numbers from the adjacent districts. The games 332 BANPPSHIRK. were keeuly coiitested, and the victor was crowned by a bonnet adorned with feathers and ribbons, previously pre|)ared by the ladies. When the games were over, the whole parties had a dance on the green, with that meriment and glee, to which the etiquette and formation of the ball-room at the present day are to- tal strangers. Thereafter, the procession was again formed, and returned to the town, the victor preceded by the music, leading the way. A ball took place in the evening, at which he presided, and, moreover, had the privilege of wearing his bonnet and feathers. The bowls were played by rolling or throwing a cannon ball, and lie who could with fewest strokes put it beyond a mark at the far- ther end of the liuks, was declared the victor. But a man having on one occasion been accidentally killed by the ball, this athletic game was forbidden by the magistrates, and has never since been revived. Now-a-days, the parishioners are in the occasional ha- bit of amusing themselves with the games of golf, shinty, foot-ball, and target-shooting, for which the links of Cullen afford excel- lent play-ground. Christmas and New-year's day, O. S., are uni- versally observed by the labouring classes ; on which occasions, there is an entire cessation from business, all appearing in holiday dress, and every muckle pat containing something extra. The ancient festivities of harvest-home, halloween, and brose-day are still kept up in the parish. The people of Cullen have bng been noted for their musical talents, and continue to sustain their character in this respect The average weekly delivery of newspa- pers, from the post-office, to the inhabitants of Cullen proper, is 120 ; besides which, a variety of magazines and periodicals are regularly received* IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The whole extent of the parish, (exclusive of the ground occupied by the sites of the New town and Sea town, amounting in all to 34 acres), is about 650 imperial acres, of which 1 15 are waste pasturage and moor. Of the remaining 535 acres, 110 form part of the extensive park of Cullen House, 200 arable are let to the inhabitants of Cullen, and 225, also arable, are rented by the occupiers of the farms of Seafield, Tochieneal, and Shirrals, which extend into the adjoining parishes of Fordyce and Rathven. The waste ground and pasturage consist partly of steep rocky pasture, along tlie sea-shore, not susceptible of culti- vation, and forming part of a sheep range, (held by the tenant of Seafield), which is connected with similar pasture in the parish of CULLRN. 333 Fordyce. The moorish waste ground, also on the farm of Seafield, is thin and rocky, standing high and exposed to the cold north winds. Little or none of it could be converted into arable land, unless at an expense which would render the undertaking unpro* fi table. Of the ground included in the Cullen House Park, about 30 acres are under wood, the greater part of which was planted with- in the last thirty years by the present Earl of Seafield. These plantations consist chiefly of oak, ash, beech, elm, plane, maple, birch, lime, horse-chestnut, sweet chestnut, mountain-ash, and larch ; and, with the exception of a small part exposed to the northern blasts, are all thriving with a luxuriance, which is not ex- ceeded by any plantations in the north of Scotland, or perhaps in the island. Many of the elms planted about 100 years ago have attained the height of 97 feet, and measure from 10 to 12 feet in circumference, at 10 feet from the ground. Among the forest trees are interpersed a great variety of ornamental shrubs, which appear in great beauty. Many of the trees of older date are of large size, and contrast finely with those recently planted. An siged elm, overhanging a rocky bank of the water of Cullen above Cullen House, measures 16 feet in circumference, at 12 feet from the ground, and standing alone with wide spreading boughs, forms a beautiful feature in the landscape. Several ash trees in the park measure from 8 to 12 feet in circumference, at 12 feet from the ground, and have attained a height of 100 feet. Some of the old larch and lime trees are also of great size and beauty ; and there is a cedar which has attained a growth, believed to be uncommon in the north of Scotland, measuring 6 feet in circumference, at 16 feet from the ground. As the plantations about Cullen House have been laid out chiefly for ornament and shelter, they are per-r haps not so much thinned and pruned as might be proper, were the increase of the value of the timber the sole object in view« That part of the Cullen House Park not under wood, is, for the .most part, kept in pasture, and produces grass of the richest quali- .ty ; the soil being uncommonly fine, and having all been in cul- tivation from time immemorial, before being added to the park. The arable lands let to the inhabitants of Cullen are laid ofi' in small lots. Few persons are in possession of more than what is requisite for the keep of a cow. The rents of these lots vary from L.1, ds. 9d. to L.3, 1 Is. 4d. per imperial acre. Of the whole arable land let in the parish, the average rent is L. I, 16s. per im- 334 BANFFSHIRE. perial acre. The rents of the small lots', occupied by the town's people, are higher than could be obtained for land in a different locality, and let in farms ; but land such as that in this parish would be valuable in any situation, being for the most part a rich deep loam of fine quality, a description which, with slight exceptions, is applicable to the other arable lands of the parish. In the more elevated parts, the soil is incumbent on gravel. Here it is comparatively thin, but sharp and productive. The greater part, however, has a subsoil of clay, which, in some places, renders the land wet, where the evil has not been remedied by drainage* A small portion of the arable land towards the south end of the parish, occupied by the town's people, is a poor stiff clay soil ; and part of the farm of Seafield, on the high grounds adjoining the moor, chiefly ground which has been reclaimed from waste, is ex- tremely light and thin. But, witu ibese exceptions, the arable land of the parish is of very superior'^quality, and the climate be* ing good, it produces abundant crops of wheat, barley, oats, pota- toes, and turnips ; and it is particularly noted for yielding fine grass. The large quantity of fish offals, procured as manure from the fishing village of Cullen, and the other fishing stations in the neighbourhood, tends much to the fertility of this and ^veral ad- joining parishes. The inhabitants of Cullen generally follow a short rotation of crops, with a view to having a considerable por- tion of their lands in green crops, for the keep of their cows. On the farms five and six shifl; courses are the rotations adopted. The only cattle kept by the town's people are cows. These are, for the most part, of the common breed of Banffshire, and are selected chiefly with a view to their qualities as milchers. The breed of cattle on the farms is a cross between the Banffshire and Teeswater breeds. This cross was introduced into the pa- rish about thirteen years ago, and has been attended with advan- tage to the farmers, more particularly of late years, since the ship- ping of ciittle from the neighbouring port of Banff, for London and other places in the south, has given encouragement for high feeding ; these crosses being found to take on fat more quickly, and to arrive earlier at maturity than the old breed of the county, al- though not so well fitted for the former state of the markets, when the cattle were sold to drovers, and had to perform a long over- land journey to the southern fairs. The sheep kept on the pasture of Seafield farm are of the Cheviot breed, but the range for them is considered too small, to admit of their being turned to great ad- CULLEN. 335 vantage. They are, however, the only description of stock suit- able for the ground, its steepness rendering it in many places un- safe for cattle. The practice of feeding oflf sheep on turnips, has not yet been introduced into the parish. No leases are given on the lands occupied by the town's people. The farms are let for a period of nineteen years, being the ordi- nary duration of leases on the Seafield estate. The only farm- buildings situated within the parish are those at Seafield. They are of a commodious and substantial description, and comprehend a thrashing-mill of iive-horse power, wrought by steam, — the only thrashing-machine of the kind in the county. There are few per- manent enclosures in. the parish ; but a considerable proportion of the grass lands on the farms is generally enclosed with wooden palings, which are obtained at a moderate cost, from the Earl of Seafield's extensive plantations in the immediate neighbourhood. The ordinary ploughs used in the parish are iron ones, of a good construction, made by the tradesmen of Cullen. Larger ploughs, with teams of four horses, are generally used by the farmers, for giving a deep furrow to land intended for green crop and fallow ; and Mr Smith's (of Deanston) subsoil plough has been used on all the farms. Upon the whole, this parish may be said to be in an advanced state, as regards agricultural management. Much has been done to the drainage of the wet lands, in the old mode of draining ; and of late years, the Deanston system of thorough draining has been actively commenced. Stones are used where accessible ; and in the southern part of the parish, where they cannot be procured, but at a great expense, tiles have been lately introduced. A tile- work for the manufacture of drain tiles was erected last year, on the border of the parish, by the tenant of Tochieneal farm, John Wilson, Esq. This gentleman has also brought from Stirling- shire, one of Mr M^Ewan's lately invented drain-ploughs, an im- plement which, with a team of sixteen oxen, has performed the operation of casting drains for tiles in a very satisfactory manner, doing great oredit to the ingenious inventor. BanffMre Farmer Club. — The influence of associations, for the promotion of the tiiiB and sciences, must be regarded as among the most efficient means of improvement. It is impossible to con- template the transactions of the Highland and Agricultural So- ciety of Scotland, since its formation, and the gigantic strides .which have been made in the march of rural economy during the BANFF. Y * 336 BANFFSHIRE. same period, without awarding to that noble institution, the merit of those mighty improvements, which have raised our native Scot- land to so distinguished a rank among the agricultural nations of the world, notwithstanding the comparatively unpropitious nature of its climate and soil One, and perhaps the most important, of the benefits, resulting from the exertions of the above society, has been, the formation of local Associations throughout the country, by which means, every improvement in husbandry may be said to be brought to the door of the humblest individual. So far back as 1730, an Agricultural Association was formed in Banffshire, under the designation of "a Small Society of Farmers in Buchan,'' in which district, those parts of Banffshire, which are upon the south side of the river Deveron, have been generally in- cluded. Notwithstanding the modesty of its title, it was composed wholly of landed proprietors, several of whom belonged to the southern counties of Scotland. Although it is now scarce possible to ascertain the beneficial influence of this Society, upon the ge- neral state of the agriculture of the county, yet we may fairly pre- sume, that it bad the effect of directing the attention of the noble- men and gentlemen of the district, to the concerns of husbandry, which had hitherto been accounted beneath the notice of people of fashion. In 1785, the proprietors and farmers of the county formed an Association, under the title of ^^ the Banffshire Farming Society." Excellent rules were framed and printed, for conducting the busi- ness, and prosecuting the objects of the institution ; but they seem to have rested in good intention only. Politics usurped the place of the plough, and the meetings of the society became thinly at- tended. Those who continued their attendance, deemed it unfair^ that they should bear both the expense and trouble of the busi- ness ; and, by a natural course of events, the funds were debited with the tavern bills. The consequence was, that the meetings of the Society dwindled into a kind of lounge for a few of the members, whose situation allowed them, without inconvenience, to attend. In this state of matters, a meeting was at' last formed, for the purpose of investing the whole of the funds, which then amounted to a considerable sum, for carrying on a section of the turnpike county road ; which proposition was adopted, but not without a keen opposition. In 1821, an Agricultural Association was formed, under the name of '^ the BanSishire Farmer Club." This institution has hre^ CULLEN, 337. very differently from its predecessor, having, under judicious ma- nagement, been productive of the most beneficial results, in awak- ening a laudable spirit of enterprize and emulation among the agriculturists of the lower district of the county, who may bear a comparison with any of their brethren in Scotland, for skill and success in the several departments of husbandry. There are two ordinary meetings of the club in the course of the year, which are held at CuUen, on the first Tuesdays of March and November. On these occasions, the members dine together in an elegant hall, provided for them by the liberality of the Right Honourable the Earl of Seafield, and, on the removal of the cloth, proceed to the discussion of some subject connected with agriculture, of which previous notice has been given, each member being expected to aSbrd to those present, the benefit of his practical knowledge, as it may ha|^pen to bear upon the question for the day. An ex- traordinary meeting of*the club is held annually at Cornhill, on the first Tuesday of August, for a competition show of horses and cattle, on which occasion, the sum of from L.25 to L.dO of the funds of the association, is expended in premiums to the successful competitors. The interest excited by the important object of this meeting, has the effect of securing a numerous attendance of local proprietors and tenants, and of agriculturists from the adja- cent districts. The quality of the stock exhibited is invariably such as to do the greatest credit to the exhibitors, and to main- tain the high character which the county has so long held, for the successful prosecution of this important branch of husbandry. Ploughing matches and seed shows are occasionally held, under the patronage of the club ; and it deserves to be mentioned, that, to this association, the lower district of the county has been mainly indebted for the services of a veterinary surgeon, — a liberal salary having been for many years paid, from the funds, for the encou- ragement of a resident practitioner of this important department of the healing art. The club is composed almost exclusively of landed proprietors, and practical farmers, and consists at present of eighty-three members, of whom twenty are honorary. Each ^ member contributes one guinea annually to the funds. Attached to the club, is a library for the use of the members, containing 100 volumes, on subjects more immediately connected with agri- culture. Fisheries.— AM the different kinds of white and shell fish, com- mon to Scotland, are to be found in abundance on the coast, and 338 BANFFSHIRE. fishing, OQ an extensive scale, has long been prosecuted by the inhabitants. About one-third of the whole population are directly dependent upon the produce of the sea, for their subsistence. There are seven first class boats employed in the deep sea fishery* each having an equipment of from eight to nine able-bodied men. The following is the routine of the Cullen fisherman's employ- ment throughout the year. The deep sea white-fishery, which is chiefly for cod, skate, and ling, commences in February, and con- tinues to the end of May. In the prosecution of this department of their calling, the fishermen usually resort to the distance of from twenty to sixty miles from land, and remain at sea for days and nights together, in the event of the weather proving favour- able. On the return of the boats to shore, the operation of cur- ing the fish immediately commences ; the process of drying them, occupying a period of three or four weeks. The month of June is chiefly employed in fishing for haddocks, which are cured into speldings. From the end of June, the fishermen are exclusively occupied in preparing for the herring-fishery, which commences about the 10th July, and continues for seven weeks, ending about the beginning of September. At the conclusion of the herring- fishery, the fishermen repair to the south for the disposal of their stock of dried fish, and in general find a ready market. From their return about the end of September, to the commencement of the deep sea fishery in Februaiy, they betake themselves to the haddock-fishery, which is generally prosecuted in ski£& or yawls, with four men to each, at the distance of from one to six miles from shore. With the exception of the small quantity that is sold fresh, chiefly to the inhabitants of the parish, the fish caught at this season are cured into yellow haddocks, by the pro- cess of smoking. The bait commonly used in the prosecution of the white-fishery is mussel, which is imported by the fishermen in their large boats, from the shores of Inverness, Cromarty, Ross, and Sutherland. The crews provide themselves annually with two or three cargoes each, at a cost of L.'2, 10s. per boat load of nine tons. Herring-Fishery. — From the introduction of the herring* fishery into the Moray Frith in 1816, to 1837, the business was vigo- rously and successfully prosecuted at Cullen, by the native fisher- men. The seasons of 1834 and 1836 having proved unfavour- able, the fishermen became discouraged, and perceiving that their b|;ethren, at the other stations on the coast, were reaping abun- CULLEN. 339 dant harvests^ while they were toiling from year to year, without adequate remuneration, they almost all to a man engaged them« selves to the curers at Wick, Macduff, Fraserburgh, and Peter- head^ to which places they continue to resort annqally. The average number of boats belonging to Cullen is thirty, each hav- ing a crew of four men, of whom, in general, two are the owners, the others being hired for the season. The ordinary terms on which the curers engage the boats, are lis. per cran of herrings, to. the amount of 200 crans, besides certain allowances in name of bounty, drink money, &c, which may amount to L.20 per boat. The following is an abstract of the quantity of white-her- rings, cod, and ling, cured at Cullen, from 1827 to 1841, inclusive. No. of barrels of No. of cwts. of cod Tear. he 1827, 1828, 1829, isao, 1831, 1882, ias8, 1834, 1835, 1836, 1837, 1838, 1839, 1840. 1841, Total, 33,272 3,725 Salmon^ Fishery. — For several years past, a salmon-fishery has been prosecuted in the bay of Cullen, with very considerable suc- cess. The parishioners are supplied, on moderate terms, with this delicious article of food ; but the bulk of the fish taken is sent to the London market. The bag-net is that e?(clusively used. The Messrs Hogarth of Aberdeen are the tacksmen of the fishery. Haw Produce. — The average gross amount of raw produce of the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : — Agrietdturah — rroduce of grain of all kinds, . , L.I 330 potatoes and turnips, 440 ba^ and land in pasture, including pasture in tbe park of Cullen House, 900 gardens, .... 850 mgs cured. and ling cured 5,369 124 2,468 104 1,254 548 5,093J 324 5.5831 1 ■ • •••• 4.428 324 2,527 455 945 443 2,491 188 1,608 260 302 189 78 149 547 290 502 159 76 168 Fisheries. — Cod, ling, skate, fee. 6 l>oats, at L.80 each, Haddocks, 9 do. 100 Herrings, 30 do. 1 30 crans each , = crans, at lis., . L.3020 L.480 900 >3900 2145 L.ar2.5 L.3020 d40 BANFFSHIRE. Brought over, L.d525 L.d020 Oil, . . . . 118 OfiaU, . 10 Dunghills, , 120 SAlmon-fishery, . . 750 • 4528 Total amount of value of raw produce, . L.754d Manufactures, — Atoneperiod, manufactures were carried on in this parish, to a considerable extent. The patriotic Earl of Find- later and Seafieldi (see Eminent CharactersJ^ to whom Banffshire has been so largely indebted for his beneficent exertions in the cause of improvements, introduced this branch of industry in 1748. His Lordship then presided at the Board of Trustees for Manu- factures at Edinburgh — an office which afforded him peculiar fa- cilities for the establishment of manufactures at Cullen ; and, ac- cordingly, under his fostering care, the measure was attended with entire success. The writer of the last Statistical Account of the parish states, " There are in this small place, 65 looms constant- ly employed in weaving linen, some few of them in weaving da- mask. The manufacturers also give out a great number of webs, to be woven by country weavers in their own shops. There are also seven stocking-looms constantly employed." Of Cullen, as re- gards manufactures, it may now be truly said, ^' non sum qualis eram ;" the business as a staple article of trade having altogether vanished. Harbour and Navigatioiu — In 1817, a small but substantial harbour was erected by the Earl of Seafield ; and, in 1834, it was greatly enlarged and improved, by the erection of an additional quay, which has rendered it one of the best harbours in the Mo- ray Frith. From first to last, the work has cost his Lordship up* wards of L. 10,000. There is a depth of 8^ feet water at the pier's head at neap tides, and of 12 feet at spring tides. There are 4 vessels belonging to the port, of from 40 to 100 tons burthen each — amounting in all to 270 tons. The harbour-dues are 2d. per ton, and yield an annual revenue of L.70. The principal im- ports are, coals, salt, staves, and barley (for distillation). The chief exports are, herrings, dried fish, timber, oats, and potatoes. Boat' Building f Sfc, — Boat-building is carried on to a conside- rable extent in the parish, the abundance of timber grown in the immediate vicinity, affording ample facilities for the prosecution of this branch of industry. The average number of boats built in the course of the year, may be computed at 44, viz. boats of the first cliiss, intended for the deep sea and herring-fishery, 36; 6 CULLEN. ^ 341 skiffs or yawls, 8. There are three master builders, and the bu- siness affords employment to 22 individuals. Ship-building, to a small extentf is occasionally carried on. In the course of the last three years, five vessels, of from 40 to 110 tons each, and of su- perior construction, have been built and equipped at the harbour of Cullen. Distillery. — In 1824, a distillery was erected at Tochieneal, and received a very considerable enlargement in 1828w Average annual quantity of spirits distilled from malt for the last five years, 25,292 gallons at proof: annual average duty paid for spirits and malt for the same period, L.5188, Ids. 3d. The work gives em- ployment to 12 persons, including two officers of excise. Mills. — There are three mills on the water of Cullen, viz. a lint- mill, a circular saw-mill, and a meal-mill ; at the last of which, about 2500 bolls of grain (oats and barley) are annually ground. On the Seafield estate, the ancie.nt law of astriction is abolished, the tenants being at liberty to have their grain milled where they- please. Wages and Prices. — A male farm-servant usually receives from L.5 to L.7, 10s. half yearly, exclusive of lodging and maintenance. The wages of female domestics for the same period are from L.2 to Lb2, 15s. Herd-boys are hired at the rate of from L.1, 5s. to Li2 for the season of six months, with maintenance. Day4abour- ers earn Is. lOd. per day in summer, and Is. 5d* in winter, with* out victuals. Harvest fees are, for a man, L.2, 5s. ; and for a female reaper, L.1, 10s., with maintenance. The following are the ordinary weekly wages of journeymen tradesmen : Black- smiths, 10s. 6d;; masons, 15s.; shoemakers, 9s.; tailors, 10s.; square-wrights, lis.; cart-wrights, lis.; boat-builders, 12s.; sawyers, 15s.; saddlers, 12s.; bakers, 10s.; slaters, lOs. ; garde- ners, 9s.; coopers, 12s.; plasterers, 153.6d. Carters charge 6d. per hour for the use of a one-horse cart. The following are the current prices of the under-mentione articles: An iron plough, fully mounted, L.d» 10s. to L.3, 15s.; a wooden plough, do., L.3 to L.3, 5s. ; a cart, with wheels, L.6, 12s«; a pair of harrows, with tines, L.2; fanners, L.3, 10s.; tur- nip-sower, L.1, 15s. to L.2; drill-plough, L.2, 5s. to L.2, 10s.; scuffle-harrow, L.1, 16s. ; a saddle, L.4 to L.5 ; a first class fish- ing boat of eleven tons burthen, L32, and when fully equipped for the deep sea fishery, L.75 ; a boat fully equipped for the her • ring-fishery, L.r20; a skiff or yawl, L.10, 5s. 6d. ; a pair of men's 342 BANFFSHIRE. fthoesy 10s. 6d. ; tailor's charge for making a coat, 7s.y a vest, 2s. 6il., trowsers, 2s. 6cl. ; butter, from 8d. to 9d. per pound ; eggs, 5d. per dozen ; sweet milk, dd. per Scotch pint, or |d. per Eng- lish pint; haddocks. Is. per dozen; lobsters, 6d. each; a good sized cod, 6d. ; ditto turbot. Is. 6d. ; beef, 6d. per pound ; mut<* ton, 6d. per do.; a good hen. Is. ; a turkey, 8s.; English coals, Is. 2d. per imperial barrel ; peats^ 2s. per cart-load ; firewood, Is. 6d. per do. V. — Parochial Economy. Town and Village. — The town of Cullen consists of two parts, which are completely separated, viz. the New Town, and the Sea Town or Fish Town ; the latter being situated on the shore, and in- habited chiefly by fishermen. The predecessor of the former, which was called the Old Town, was meanly built, and, about twenty years ago, was utterly demolished, in order to make way for the improvements of Cullen House. The New Town, by which it was replaced, stands nearer to the sea than the old one did, be- ing close to the eastern extremity of the Sea Town, above which it is considerably elevated. It is a very neat little town. The houses are good, and the streets are laid out on a tasteful and regular plan, according to which but a tnoiety is as yet erected. The Boundary Commissioners observe, however, that, '* being favour- ably situated for fishing, and in a well cultivated district, it may be expected to increase." Its symmetrical form presents a curious contrast to the contiguous awkward squad of fishermen's houses constituting the Sea Town, and which display a total independence of any thing like partial subordination to the ** rank and file" of streets^— their relative positions very much resembling those of hail-stones as they fall on the ground. As an agreeable and desirable residence, the town of GuUeii possesses many advantages. It lies on the post-road, and in a highly salubrious district. It is beautifully situated on the mar- gin of the romantic bay of Cullen, and in the immediate vicinity of the picturesque grounds of Cullen House. The society is most respectable ; and all sorts of commodities are to be had at a mo- derate cost. It has the benefit of a post-ofiice, a regular butcher- market, a brewery, a convenient harbour, good schools, skilful tradesmen, excellent shops, gas-light, a copious supply of good water, plenty of all the necessaries of life supplied from a rich country, on the one hand, and an ample supply of all kinds of CULLEN. 343 fish from the sea, on the other, with the command of abundance of the various sorts of fuel. Means of Commimicaftoiated Secretary of State. 1678. George Leslie. 1703. Patrick Ogilvie. Members of the British and Imperial Parliaments, — At the union with England, 13th June 1707, the burghs of Elgin, Banff, Cullen, Inverury, and Kintore, sent one member to the British Parliament: and since 2d February 1801, (the union with Ire- land), till dd December 1832, when the Parliament was dissolved after the passing of the Reform Bill, one member to the Imperial Parliament. By the Reform Act of 1832, the town of Peterhead was associated with this district of bui^hs in sending one niember to the Imperial Parliament. The following is a list of the Mem- bers of the British and Imperial Parliaments for the above burghs : 1. The Honourable Patrick Ogilvie of Loanmay, 26th May 1708, 2. Alexander Reid.Esq., 27th October 1710. - 3. The Hon. James Murray, 17th September 1713. i. The Hon. James Murray, 5th April 17 Mr. 5. The Hon. James Murray, 19th February 1715. 6. The Hon. M. £. William Fraser, elected 3d April 1722, unseated by the House of Commons, 23d January 1724, and John Campbell, Esq. declared duly elected. 7. William Stuart, Esq., 9th September 1727. 8. Patrick Campbell, Esq., 16th March 1728. CULLEN. 343 9. The Hon. WiUiam Stuart» 18th May 1734. 10. Sir James Grant of Grants Bart., 28th May 1741. 1 1. The Right Hon. William Grant of Preston Gran^, Esq., 18th Febru- ary 1746. 12. The same, 22d July. 1747. 13. William Grant of Preston Grange, Esq., 9th May 1754. 14. Andrew Mitchell, Esq. of Thamstown, let January 1755. 15. The Hon. Andrew Mitchell of do., 20th April 1761. 16. The Hon. Sir Andrew Mitchell, Kuight or the Bath, 11th April |768. 17. Thomas Lockhart, Esq. Counsellor at Law, Lincoln's Inn, London, 20th March 1771. 18. Staats Long Morris, Esq. a Colonel of His Majesty's Forces, 31 fit Octo- ber 1774. 19. MiMor-General Staats Long Morris, 2d October 1780. 20. William Adam, Esq. of Woodstone, 26th April 1784. 21. Alexander Brodie, Esq. of Madras, 12th July 1790. 22. Alexander Brodie, Esq., 20th June 1796. 23> Lieutenant-Colonel Francis William Grant, 2d July 1802. 24. George Skene, Esq. of Skene, 27th November 1806. 25. Archibald Colquhoun, Esq. EUs Majesty's Advocate for Scotland, 30th May 1807. 26. The Right Hon. William Dundas, 13th July 1810. 27. Archib^d Campbell of Blythswood, Esq., 13th April 1812. 28. Patrick Milne, Esq. of Cromonmogate, 30th October 1812. 29. Robert Grant, Esq- Barrister at Law of Lincoln's Inn, London, llth July 1818. 30. Archibald Farquharson, Esq. of Fenzean, 3l8t March 1820. 31. Lieutenant-General the Hon. Alexander Duff, Colonel 92d Foot, Sd July 1826. 32. The same, 23d August 1830. 33. Sir William Gordon Gordon Cumming of Altyre and Gordonstone, Bart. 23d May 1831. 34 Lieutenant-Colonel Andrew Leith Hay, younger of Rannes, 29th De- cember 1832. 35. The same, 30th June 1834. 36. The suae, 19th January 1835. 87. The same, 2d May 1835. 38. Sir Andrew Leith Hay, younger of Rannes, Knight, 25th July 1837. 39. Fox Maule, Esq. commonly «adled the Hon. Fox Maule, 13th February 1838. 40. Sir Andrew Leith Hay of Rannes, Knight, Tlh July 1841. The entire constituency of the six burghs is 838, tiz. Eigin^ 219; Banff, 218; CuUen, 38; Inverury, 102; Kin tore, 35; Peterhead, 226. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish of Cullen originally formed part of the parish of Fordyce, from which it was disjoined at a very remote period. The parish church is a fabric of great antiqui- ty, {Ecclesiastical History and Antiquities)^ and, like many of the religious edifices of the olden time, bears the form of a cross. Not- withstanding its extreme age, the walls are still in a sound state, and seem destined to endure for centuries* The site is highly ro* mantic, being in the centre of the ancient burying-ground, which is almost completely environed by the picturesque pleasure- 346 BANFFSHIRE. grounds of Cullen Hoiisey from which the church is only forfy yards distant. The interior presents a most venerable appearance* — its dingy light, antique fittings, and the ancient monuments which grace its walls, combining to impart to it a very imposing aspect, and well calculated to aid devotional feeling. The pecu- liarity of its construction, and the circumstance of never having been ceiled, render public speaking in it somewhat difficult, and a very considerable strength of voice is requisite, to enable the preacher to be generally heard. It was enlarged about forty-four years ago, by the erection of an additional aisle, which, from the circumstance of the minister being invisible to the great body of the hearers, who occupied that portion of the church, by reason of the awkward situation of the pulpit, was commonly denominated ** the believers' loft," — a title which is no longer applicable, the evil having been remedied by changing the situation of the pul- pit. The church is situated close to the western boundary of Cul- len proper. It is somewhat about a mile equidistant from the northern, eastern, and southern extremities of the parish, and three miles from the most remote boundary of the annexation. Since the removal of the old town of Cullen, in the centre of which it stood, its situation has become not a little inconvenient for the parishioners, being nearly a mile distant from the New town and Sea town, where nine-tenths of the population are loca- ted. It is seated for 800, allowing eighteen inches to each per- son. The sittings are all free and undivided, — the parishioners being at liberty more gregis to accommodate themselves wherever they please. In summer, the whole of the sittings are fully occu- pied, and in winter, the attendance is one-third less. The ave- rage number of communicants is 640, and of male heads of fami- lies in full communion with the church, 220. There is no regular Dissenting place of worship, either in Cullen proper, or in the an- nexation. In the former, the entire number of Dissenters may be computed at 26 souls, viz. Episcopalians, 5 ; Wesleyan Metho- dists, 7; Independents, 2; Roman Catholics, 12. With the above exceptions, the whole of the parishioners of Cullen proper professedly belong to the Established Church. The greater part of the Dissenters give occasional attendance at the parish church, and the members of the Methodist communion are in the habit of receiving sealing ordinances, at the hands of the parish minis- ter. There are, usually, four extraordinary church collections du- CULLBN. d47 ring the year, for religious and charitable purposes, of which the average amount is L. 20. A handsome manse and suitable set of offices were erected in 1830. The glebe measures about five Scotch acres, and is of ex- cellent arable land, of the annual value of L. 4, 10s. per acre. The stipend consists of the following items: L. 109, 12s. 5d. ; barley, 3 quarters, 5 bushels, 2 pecks, 1 ^ % lippies ; meal, 7 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 pecks, ] lippie ; L.3» 6s. 8d. paid from the funds of the burgh : L. 36, 8s. 4d. added by the Exchequer.^ In addition to the above, the minister receives L.8, 6s. 8d for supplying com- munion elements, L. 5 in lieu of a grass glebe, and L.8, 6s. 8d. as remuneration for right to peat-moss surrendered. The Right Honourable the Earl of Seafield is patron and sole heritor. Ministers of Culleru — The following is a list of the ministers of the parish of CuUen from 1640 to the present time. 1. Aleiander Seaton wai miaister in • 1640 2. William Burnett, . admitted 6th December 1608 a. Robert Farqubar, do. 15th January 1682 4. John Gumming, kite Dean of Moray, do. 24th May I68S 5. James Chalmers, do. 8th May 16R9 r Robert Teat, . . do. 1697 6. < The charge was vacant for five years, via. from 1700 i to 1705. m I Alevander Irvine, do. 7th August 1705 I Translated to Fordyoe, October 1716. 8. James Lawtie, . . . do. 19th March 1717 Q C James Anderson, translated from Boindie, do. 12th December 1751 * { Translated from Cullen to KeiUi, 1762. 10. Robert Grant, translated from Rothes, do. 24th September 1762 II i George Innes, do. 1st December 1808 I Translated to Deskford, 6th August 1829, 12. George Henderson, do. 25th September 1829 Seafield Church, — An additional Church, bearing the above title, (in compliment to the noble family of Seafield, to whose munifi- cence the erection was mainly owing,) was erected in 1838-39, in the quoad sacra district of the parish, under the impulse of the General Assembly's Church Extension movement. The entire cost of the erection has been L.668; and it is satisfactory to state that it is altogether free of debt. The population of the district for whose accommodation the church is specially designed is upwards of 900; number of sittings, 450 ; annual seat rent, from Is. to 3s. 6d., the average being 2s. ; annual amount of seat rents, about L#.40; * My predecessor informs mc, that, during'^the earlier part of his incumbency, old people used to tell bim of bis predecessor, Mr Robert Grant, drawing the small tithes on the other side of the water of Cullen, as Brunton and the annexed parts.— G. H. 348 BANFFSHIRE. of ordinary church collections, L. 29. The collections, by consent of Lord SeaGeld, go to the benefit of the chapel funds, until the debt is liquidated, subject to a deduction of an annual payment to the parochial funds for behoof of the poor, to make up the deficiency in the latter caused by the new erection. Since the church was opened, 16th October 1839, divine service has been performed in it every Lord's day by the minister of Cullen, aided occasionally by the members of presbytery, and the resident probationers ; and there is a iair prospect of soon procuring the services of a stated pastor for the charge. Edtication. — The parish is abundantly supplied with the means of education, there being ahogether in Cullen proper, sewn 8chools» of which four are endowed. The salary of the parochial teacher, which is the medium, aided by an old bequest, is L.36 ; the aver- age yearly amount of school fees is L. 40 ; and, as the school en- joys the benefit of the Dick bequest, his official emoluments may be estimated at upwards of L. 100 per annum. The parochial school-house is suitable and commodious; and the teacher is pro- vided with an excellent dwelling-house and garden. The average daily attendance of scholars throughout the year, is 78. A boarding and day school, for the instruction of young ladies in the plain and ornamental branches of education, is under the direction of an accomplished teacher ; the branches taught and terms charged, being the same with those in similar provincial esta- blishments. The teacher is accommodated with an excellent dwel- ling-house and small garden, rent free, provided by the Earl of Seafield ; and in addition to the fees, she receives a salary of fifteen guineas, of which his Lordship contributes ten, and the town-coun- cil five. An infant school, patronised and endowed by the noble family of Seafield, was instituted in 1839. It is efficiently taught by a female, and is usually attended by from 70 to 80 scholars, from the age of two and a-half to that of seven years. The school fee is one penny per week, in addition to which, the teacher receives a salary of fourteen guineas, and is, moreover, provided with a free school-room and dwelling-house. An unendowed school, for the ordinary branches of education, has, for many years, been successfully taught by the individu- al who holds the office of session-clerk, at which the average daily attendance is in summer 60, and in winter 120 — the latter includ- CULLEN. 349 ingan evening class, for the instruction of farm-servants and young tradesmen. In addition to the above, there are three schools, (one of which has an endowment of a salary of L.5, the joint gift of the Earl of Seafield and the town-council of Cullen,) taught by dames, and attended by children from three to ten years of age, who are in- structed in reading, knitting, and sewing. These humble semi- naries are of much consequence to the labouring classes, and are highly deserving of encouragement, were it for nothing more, than their utility in relieving mothers of much trouble during the day, and keeping their children out of harm's way. The people in general are fully alive to the advantages of edu- cation, as is apparent from the feet, that the average daily attend- ance of scholars throughout the year is 330, or upwards of one- fifth of the whole population. There is no portion of the parish so distant from school as to prevent regular attendance, and the circumstances of the parishioners at large are such as enable them, without difficulty, to pay the school fees. Formerly, education was much neglected by the fishing population, but a marked change for the better has happily taken place, and is on the increase. On the whole, it may be said of this parish, that the interests of edu«- cation are in fully as prosperous a state, as in any of the provincial parishes of Scotland. Sabbath Schools. — Of these there is one in Cullen proper, and another in the annei;ation, which are under the immediate super- intendence of the minister, and usually attended by from 200 to 300 scholars. During the greater part of the year, the minister teaches two Bible classes weekly, which are well attended. They are designed for the benefit of adults of both sexes, whether single or married, of young persons who have left the juvenile Sabbath schools, and of all who propose to offer themselves for admission to the ordinance of the Lord's Supper. Bursaries. — In 1675, Mr John Lorimer, town -clerk of Cullen, bequeathed a croft of land, containing about one and a- half Scotch acres, with the buildings upon it, for the education of a boy at the school of Cullen, of his own name, or related to him, and appointed the town-council and kirk-session of Cullen, joint patrons of the bursary. In consequence of the removal of the old town of Cul- len, the bursary land is now within the precincts of the Cullen House policy, and is held in tack by the Earl of Seafield, who pays an annual rent of 5 qrs. 3 bushels, 3 pecks, 1} lippies, bear. 3^0 BANFFSHIRK. coDvertible into nioDey at the cotety fiars price. Oo a recent ap- plication by the Noble Earl to the patrons, the latter agreed to an excambion of the bursary land, which is now in course of being made. In 1764, Mr William Lorimer of St James's Parish, Lon- don, grandnephew of the aforesaid Mr' John Lorimer, out of gra- titude for the benefit of his own education, upon his granduncle's foundation, bequeathed a sum of money suflScient to yield L.1 yearly, to provide books for his granduncle's bursar, and also 10s. yearly, to the schoolmaster of Cullen, for his attention to said bursar. The benefit of this bursary continues for the space of five years. The aforesaid Mr William Lorimer was also the founder of a separate bursary, having, in 1764, bequeathed the sum of L.200 for the education of his granduncle's bursar, if found qualified, and the relations of his mother, alternatelvy at the High School of Aberdeen, for one year, and, thereafter, at Marischal College, for four years. The foundation is under the management of the Magistrates and Town-Council of Aberdeen, the Principal and Professors of Marischal College, and the Magistrates and Minister of Cullen. In consequence of the lack of candidates for this bur« sary since its foundation, the funds have accumulated to such an amount, as to admit of the simultaneous education of two bursars, and yielding the annual sum of L.12 to each. In 1721, Mr John Watson, Merchant in Edinburgh, a native of the parish of Cullen, bequeathed 2000 merks Scotch, for assisting in the education of a boy at the school of Cullen, related to him by father or mother,-— the nearest of kin to be preferred. The patronage of the bursary is vested in the kirk-session of Cullen. The sum originally mortified ^fields L.2, 2s. per annum to the bursar, who enjoys the benefit for the period of four years. The same benevolent individual founded similar bursaries at the schools of Banff* and Fordyce. The above bequests, under judicious management, have proved most beneficial to the founders' relations, and have been the means of raising many a destitute youth to opulence and respectability. Parochial Library. — In 1830, a parochial library was established. It consists of a well-selected assortment of works, in the several departments of literature and science. Friendly iSocte^'e^.-— Formerly, the following friendly Societies existed in the parish, viz. Innocent's Lodge of Free Masons, in- stituted 1808; Linen Society, instituted 1792; Wrights' Society, CULLRN. 351 transferred from Banff) 1806. The above Societies were instituted for the purpose of relieving sick and indigent brethren, their wi- dows and children. They were all dissolved in 1832, in conse* quence of an Act of Parliament passed, or about to be passed, at that time, respecting the funds of Friendly Societies. The Mason Lodge was remodelled in 1835. It consists at present of from 60 to 70 members, and has a disposable fund of about L.100. This Society, previous to its dissolution in 1832, numbered 270 members. Pocfr and Poof'i Funds. — The average number of persons re- gularly receiving parochial aid is 87, viz. 71 in CuUen proper, and 16 in the annexation. The distributions are made quarterly ; intermediate aid being advanced occasionally, in case of urgent necessity. The average sum allotted to each person per annum is, in CuUen proper, 15s. 4^d., and in the annexation, 14s. 3d. The average annual amount of monies, for the last seven years, available for behoof of the poor, and under the management of the kirk-session, is L.76, 14s. lO^d., arising from the following sources, viz. church collections, L.59, 4s. 6d. ; interest of funds, L.6, 9s. 4d. ; dues on proclamations of banns, 1^1, 18s. lid.; hire of mortcloth, L.l, 6s. 9^d. ; mortification, L.2, 2s. ; penalties, L.5, ISs. 4^d. The average annual expenditure, for the same period, is L.78, 18s. 8d., viz. quarterly distributions, L.66, 6s. 2^d. ; occasional aid, L.4, 15s. ; officers' fees, and other expenses, L.7, 12s. 5id. There never has been an assessment for the sup- port of the poor ; the voluntary contributions of the community, together with the items above stated, having hitherto proved suf- ficient for affording the usual rate of aliment. Bede-Hause. — There formerly existed in the parish a bede- house, or hospital, for the maintenance of a limited number of decayed persons, the origin of which cannot now be precisely de- termined. It appears to have been founded by the Find later fa- mily, and its name* marks it as an institution of Popish times. * Bede, in Saxon, prayer ; bede men^ who joined in (he celebration of masses for the dead. The writer has gleaned the following traditionary notices regarding the Bede House of CuUen, which may be relied on as subeuntially correct. The lands of Upper Pattenbringan and Brunton were morti6ed, for the support of eight de- cayed farmers, and eight farmers* widows. A house of two storeys was built for them in CuUen ; eaeh flat divided into eight sleeping apartmenu and a kitchen. The men occupied the lower, and the women the upper flat. The men had two pecks of oatmeal, and the women one and a-half ditto each per week. Prom Pattenbring^n and *Bninton, w^k al)out, they were supplied with milk in summer, and beer In' BANFF, Z 852 BANFFSHIRE. About sixty years ago, the hospital system was abolished, and the funds, which are under the patronage and management of the Earl of Seafield, are expended in stated and occasional allowances of meal, to poor families belonging to the parishes of Cullen, Rath- yen, Deskford, and Fordyce, residenters on the Sea6eld estate; by which means the charity is rendered more extensively useful. From the above source, the parish of Cullen derives about 85 bolls annually ; of which, 70 bolls are shared by 40 persons, in weekly pecks and half pecks ; ten and a-quarter bolls are placed at the disposal of the kirk-session ; and five bolls are distributed by the local factor. * winter. The allowance of milk was the produce of one oow» and undiiaimed ; the allowance of beer was the produce of two pecks of malt. At Christmas, yearly, they were furnished from the aforesaid farms, alternately, with a good fat horned mairt, and salt to salt it. The horns supplied them with spoons, and the hide with brogues. From Pattenbringan and Brunton, week about, a female seryant was sent to make the men's beds and clean out their apartments. From the same fanna, they got what was called leet peals fur fuel, in equal proportions, which were not only brought to their door, but built up for them ; and if their fuel fell short, Cullen House was bound to make up the de6ciency. They were annually suppliiHl with blue top coats, and the old ones were made into vests and breeches. When they wanted bed-clcthefl, they carried the old to Cullen House, and received new. They were all obliged, if in health, to attend church every Sabbath, and they sat on fbrma, in front of the recumbent stone figure within the elegant sarcophagus, in the eastern aisle of the church. The eight figures, in niches, along the foot of the tomb, are supposed to represent the bede men. It is said, that, at one period, part of their duty was to sit at the church doors, with pike staves in their bands, in order to pre- yent the ingress of dogs. A herald, from Edinburgh, visited the Bcde House half yearly, when every liede man and bede woman was interrogated separately, if they had any complaint to make in regard to their domestic comfort, and if so, Cullen House was immediately applied to for redress. * The following bequests have been made by persons, natives of, or connected with, the parish of Cullen. In 1650, John Lawtie, burgess of Cullen, bequeathed his whole property, consisting of a house, a garden, and a croft of land, lor behoof of the poor of Cullen, which pays, of yearly renti to the kirk session, L.2, 2s. Id 1657, William Lawtie, of Myre House, bequeathed a croft of land, with some bouses, and a sum of money, with which were purchased some additional acres of land, within the parish, for behoof of poor persons related to him, or bearing his name. The aforesaid bequests are under the patronage and management of the heirs and representatives of the founders. William Leslie, of Birdsbank, an heritor in the parish, bequeathed the sum of 1000 merks Scotch, and appointed the interest to be applied as an encouragement to a schoolmaster in Cullen, under the direction of the magistrates. This money, by a negotiation of that body, was settled in the hands of the Earl of Findlater, upon his agreeing to make some addition to it, and he thereby became patron of the school. A Mr Smith bequeathed a house, a garden, and a croft of land, and appointed the rents of them an an additional encouragement \o the schoolmaster of Cullen. Collector John Ogilvie, of the Customs at Inverness and his ton. Bailie William Ogilvie, Merchant in Banff, bequeathed the sum of L.44, 9s., the interest to be applied, by the kirk-session of Cullen, for behoof of the found- ers* poor relations, and the poor of the parish, in equal parts. The following be. quests were made to the kirk-session of Cullen, for behoof of the poor, vis. Mr James Ogilvie, formerly wadsetter of Logic, Ti.16, Ids. 4d. ; in 1805, Dr Brands, Jamaica, L.20; in 1824, Miss Janet Grant, daughter of the Rev. Robert Grant, formerly minister of Cullen, L.20. 6 CULLBN. 353 The Noble family of Seafield distribute annually, in voluntary charity, forty*one bolls of meal, among twenty indigent and aged females, residenters in the parish of CuUen ; and, in other respects, attend to the wants of the poor, with a beneficence and liberality worthy of their honoured name. There is an annual subscription among the inhabitants, for the support of a coal fund, from which the poor are liberally supplied, during the winter months, with that important article of the necessaries of life. It thus appears, that the wants of the poor of this parish are most amply provided for ; in proof of which, it deserves to be mentioned, that there is scarcely ever such a thing as regular beg- ging on the part of the inhabitants. The people evince much of the ancient spirit of independence, in their laudable efforts to maintain themselves by the labour of honest industry, so long as the power of doing so remains, and show muck reluctance in ap- plying for parochial relief. jBanA^.—* A branch of the Aberdeen Bank was established in the burgh in 1837. It has experienced very considerable success, and has proved an important boon to the community of Cullen and the surrounding districts. A savings^ bank was established in 1816, and has been productive of the most beneficial effects. The institution is open to the inhabitants of the adjacent parishes. The following is a statement of its affairs, 1st April 1842 : num- ber of depositors, 480 ; amount of principal sums due, L.7069, 15s. 7id.: amount of interest due, L.260, 13s. 4$d.; total amount due to depositors, L.7330, 9s. ; average sum of each deposit, L.15, 5s. 5id. Giiir£9.— The following courts are statedly held in Cullen, viz. Sheriff Small-debt Court, for sums not exceeding L.8| (fs. Sd., on the second Thursday of February, June, and October ; Justice of Peace Court, on the first Tuesday of every month, for sums not exceeding L.5 ; Registration Court, for the enrolment of Parlia- mentary electors under the Reform Apt, in August annually. The ordinary meetings of the Reverend the Presbytery of Fordyce are held at Cullen. Priiovu — The only place of confinement in the bui^h is a lock-, up-house, for the purpose of punishing petty delinquents by a short imprisonment, and to be used, in case of need, for the safe cus- tody of prisoners on their way to the county jail* It consists of three apartments or cells of moderate dimensions, vaulted, paved, lighted, and ventilated. 354 BANFFSHIRR. Insurance Companies, — There are three branches of Insurance Companies in the parish, viz. the Scottish Union, the^Aberdeen Fire and Life, and the North of Scotland. Fairs and Markets. — Of these, there are three held annually, viz. Whitsunday .market, on the third Friday of May; Martinmas market, on the second Friday of November ; St John's fair, on the 7ih January. They are chiefly for the feeing of servants, and are well attended. There is a weekly market for the sale of grain during the spring months, at which business, to a considerable amount, is occasionally transacted ; and dealers frequenting it are accommodated with the use of excellent grain lofb, which are let on moderate terms. Inns and Alehouses. — There are two inns in the burgh. The principal inn is a handsome and commodious building, and inferior to none on the route from Aberdeen to Inverness. The internal accommodation is such as deservedly to attract the admiration of strangers, and the posting department is very complete. In the Seatown, there are three public-houses. There are thus altoge- ther five public-houses, including the two inns. This number does not appear to be unreasonably great ; and the magistrates of Cul- len deserve well of the community, for the laudable exercise of their discretion, in the granting of licenses to so very moderate an extent. GaS'Liffht — A Gas-light Company was formed in 1841, with a capital of L.1000, in as many shares; and, in November last, the inhabitants obtained the benefit of this light in great purity and brilliancy. The gas has already been introduced into eighty houses, with the prospect of the number being speedily doubled. The consumpt of gas for six months, from 5th November 1841^ has been 80,000 cubic feet. The charge is I6s. per 1000 cubic feet. jPt immense deposit of red clay and gravel, which forms the whole extensive table-land lying above Fochabers. ^On the south edge, along the chasm of the Orchil, this deposit is skirted by beds of pure white sand, in layers, in some places horizontal, in others inclined, and again in other places curiously contorted, over which beds the red gravel looks as if it had been poured, fol- lowing all their contortions and sinuosities. The sand is discover- ed by the action of the bum or other causes removing the over- lapping deposit. Proceeding northward and eastward, the depth of this red stuff becomes exceedingly great. The Spey has cut in upon the west side of it, opposite to Orton House, and formed cliffs of great height, the change of whose colour, from bright red to dark crimson, is a sure prognostic of rain. The brooks which drain off the moisture from the table*land have formed many ra- vines almost perpendicular in the sides, and in many instances from 50 to 100 feet deep. Nay, it is not uncommon, where a ditch has been cut, or the surface otherwise removed, to find a new ravine formed of great depth in the course of one day by the first heavy rains. Towards the bottom of these ravines, the side&» noHAUM. 361 before long exposure to the air, are hard and compact, having much the appearance of breccia traversed by horizontal layers of soft sandstone. After some exposure, they become soft. The breccia*like substance is reduced to clay and gravel, and thousand- stone to sand, ready to be swept away by the next rain. The bright crimson colour of the torrents poured through these ravines into the Spey has often attracted observation. They are absolutely like torrents of blood. On this table-land no springs rise, except at its edges, to which of course cultivation is confined ; while the rest of it, except where, planted, for which it is all admirably adapt* ed, remains a barren waste.* Further to the east, and forming the north-eastern side of the lateral valley, are the round hills of Muldeary, the western slope of which is in this parish composed of the same red clay and gra- vel ; abounding here, however, both superficially and in the sub- soil, with large boulders of granite and hornblende. These, in some places, are so numerous as to cover the surface, and totally prevent cultivation. They afford building stone of the best quali- ty, and are extensively used in this way. Zoology. — Red-deer frequently visit the parish, chiefly in their passage from the forests of the interior to the coast, or as ma- rauders from the park of Gordon Castle. Roe-deer are pretty numerous. Hares are most abundant everywhere, and rabbits on the river side. Foxes, polecats, weasels, notwithstanding the ex- ertions of the game-keepers for their destruction, are also nume- rous. Badgers are not rare. Otters» once very numerous, still frequent the rocks of the Orchil, and the margin of the river. A hedgehog, the only one ever seen here, was lately found on the river bank. Rats are a perfect nuisance, and, of late, the large grey rat has found its way from the coast. Water-rats, with round heads and short tails, are numerous, burrowing in embank- ments and the sides of mill ponds. Hawks of various kinds are very plentiful, and a few ravens may be seen, which have their domicile in the rocks of Benagen. Rock pigeons are numerous in the glen of the Orchil, and wood pigeons in all the plantations. Rooks visit the parish in large flocks, chiefly from the woods of Gordon Castle and Balveny. The common crow makes also a frequent appearance. Owls, both common and horned, are nu- merous, and there are the usual abundance and variety of smaller birds. Grouse are plentiful on Benagen and the bounding hlls. 362 UANFFSUIRE. Partridges are abundant. Black-game is to be found, and wood« cocks are numerous in the early. part of winter, or end of autumn. At Arndilly, these have occasionally remained throughout the year, nestling and bringing out their young. A few plovers, snipes, and curlews frequent a large moss in the lower end of the parish, and the few remaining swamps, where also the bittern has been heard and seen. 'J'here is nothing peculiar in the breeds of the domestic cattle. The black-cattle are chiefly Highland or Aberdeenshire. The few sheep are Leicesters, on the arable grounds, and Lintons on the skirts of the hills. There are no goats. The brooks have all a good store of common trout. The river here abounds with salmon in close time, and would naturally abound with them throughout the year, as it did of old ; but, during the fishing sea- son, the labours of the fishermen, in the lower part of its course, are now so indefatigable, and the operation of the cruive dike, si- tuated just at the lower extremity of the parish, is now so perfect as a barrier, that comparatively very few fish get up even so far as the fishing grounds here ; and the fishery rent of the parish, and of Rothes, has, instead of rising in proportion to the greatly increased value of the commodity, dwindled to a mere trifle. When the water is low, even the Sunday's slap is said to be of little use for the run of the fish, owing to the construction of the dike, and there is a tolerable supply here only when a flood has overtopped the dike, or caused a breach in it, and has in some degree interrupted the fishing below. There is generally, how- ever, a suflScient number of fish to afibrd excellent sport to the angler. White or sea-trout, and finnocks, are at certain seasons very abundant. Woods. — A noble forest, chiefly planted by operations of various dates, extends on the estate of Arndilly, to a length of from seven to eight miles, along the banks of the Fiddich and Spey, and stretches far back from these streams up on the slopes, and into the recesses of Benagen. The plantations here consist of Scotch fir, larch, spruce, and various hard-woods. There is a consider- able intermixture of natural hard^wood, birch, geen, alder, ash, mountain-ash, and oak, in the lower parts, near the Spey, and a considerable breadth of natural Scotch fir, spreading from the plantations towards the top of the hill. Everywhere, in the valley of the Spey, and at Arndilly as much as anywhere, the Scotch BOHARM. SGl] fir seems to rejoice in the soil and climate, and soon becomes very valuable, and the spread of it here seems likely, at no distant date, if the* ground be properly protected from sheep and cattle, to cover the whole western face of Benagen, even to the summit, and make it, indeed, a fine object in the scenery of the country. The larch, here, too, thrives admirably, as indeed does every spe- cies of wood usually grown in Scotland. There are three beech trees in the garden of great size. One of them presents a noble pillar in its stem, 17 feet high from the ground, clear of branches, and of a uniform circumference of 1 1 feet 8 inches, for the whole of this height. A sweet chestnut, also in the garden, has a stem of 13 feet long, and 1*2 feet round. A birch, near the house, has a circumference of 7 feet, at six feet from the ground. Further down the river, on the estate of Cairnty, in the angle between the Orchil and the Spey, natural oak and birch cover a considerable extent, and the glen of the Orchil, and the lateral ravines, are thickets of birch. Were this glen inclosed, and planted with oak, &c, it would, at very little loss to the tenants of the pasture, soon become of immense value to the proprietor. Here, too, some plantations of Scotch fir and larch were made about thirty years ago, along the river, which have of late been largely augmented, all in the most thriving state. In the valley of Boharm, there is, in the upper end, a consider- able quantity of natural birch, alder, mountain-ash, and geen, among which, the late proprietor intermixed a large quantity of ash and elm, which have thriven excellently ; and lower down, Mr Steuart of Auchlunkart has around his mansion-house a most ornamental plantation, of upwards of eighty Scotch acres of hard wood, with a proportion of larches and spruces, which are gradually thinned out. Ash, oak, elm, beech, &c. &c. thrive here remarkably well, and have already got up to be trees of con- siderable size, where, only thirty-five years ago, there was little besides rows of ash and plane-tree round the old garden. Mr Steu-» art has, however, taken great pains with this plantation, great part of the ground having been trenched for it, limed, and sown out with natural grasses. Mr Steuart has also planted, on his hills and moors, in this parish, to the extent of 300 Scotch acres and upwards, Scotch fir, and larches, greatly to the ornament of the country. The Scotch fir here does not thrive so well as on Spey-side, and it is gradually thinned out lo give room for the larches, which get on admirably. 364 BANFFSHIRE. Opposite to Auchlunkart, od the Seafield estate^ a large planta- tion has recently been made out, on the lower end of the Benagen range, which already shews well. The summits of the Muldeary hills were planted many years ago with Scotch 6r. They look well at a distance, but the wood has come to little size, and re- quires to be filled up with hard-wood and larch. IL-— Civil History. The earliest account that the reporter is acquainted with, both of the parish of Boharm and the suppressed parish of Dundurcos, is in Shaw's History of the Province of Moray. There are no spe- cial plans or surveys of the parish. It is possessed by four pro- prietors, by whose families their respective estates have been held for several generations. William Grant M^Dowal, Esq. has the up- per part, consisting of Arndilly, Easter and Wester Gauldwell, Newton, and Auchmadies, together with the peninsula of Aikenway, in Rothes, already mentioned, all lying contiguous in a rich, com- pact, and beautiful estate. Next, downwards, John Duff, Esq. of Drummuir^ has the farm of Knockan, which unites with his ex- tensive possessions in Botriphney. Patrick Stewart, Esq., has the barony of Auchlunkart, in the middle of the parish, and the Earl of Seafield has the lower end of it, comprising the lands of Balnabriech, Mulben, Muldeary, Cairnty, and Forgie. Parochial ReffisterM.^-^The parochial registers commence in 1636, and, except in the times of Charles II. and his successor, and another break, from 1784 to 1800, the session record is very full and complete. The registers of baptisms and marriages, however, are defective before 1800, and there is no register of deaths. Antiquities, — A stone, which was in the wall of the old church at Arndilly, is now built into the wall of one of the wings of the mansion-house. It has rude figures carved on it As the re- porter has seen another stone, and has heard of a third, having very nearly the same figures upon them, the former having been taken out of the foundation of the old church of Inveravon, and the latter being built into the wall of the abbey of Deer, he haa sometimes thought that they may be Druidical memorials, and in- dicate that our forefathers fixed their first Christian temples on the sites of Druidical worship. The Castle of Bucharin, now Galval, is an interesting remain, situated on a fine eminence between the brook Aldernie and the Fiddich, having the vale of Balveny stretching out in front ; the BOHARM. d()5 vale of Boharm to the east ; the lower part of the valley of the Fiddich to the west; and a great extent of well cultivated fields and beautiful woodlands all around. Little of the building is now standing. The former Account states, that, by some excavation among the ruins, some silver spoons (apostle spoons) were found, with round hollow handles, and the mouth or shell completely cir- cular. What became of these relics, the present reporter could never ascertain. Under a stone in the floor of the oratory of the castle, a silver ring was lately found, having a small shield fixed upon it, which exhibited two martial figures. This is now at Arndilly. Both record and tradition inform us, that, in very early times, there was a bridge over the Spey, near the influx of the Orchil. It appears to have been chiefly of wood, and calculated only for the passage of pedestrians and horses. Where tradition says it crossed the river, the water is very deep close to the ro^k on the east side, which served for one of the abutments ; but this great depth extends but a little way out from the rock, and then the 3tream shallows to the western bank. Hence one long stretch, not beyond the powers of the largest tioober of the country would sufiice for getting over the deeper water, and then the progress westward would be comparatively easy by means of supports from the bottom ; and such, according to tradition, was the nature of the structure. If liable to injury by a flood, or to decay by tirne^ it could be easily repaired or replaced by the funds allocated for the purpose. This bridge was, for many ages, the only passage of the kind across this large, rapid, and dangerous river, and must have been of great consequence to the whole of the north. Its first erection has been ascribed to the Romans in their progress under Severus, and it is known to have been in existence after the Reformation. It is conjectured that the Reformation having ter- minated the religious establishment connected with it (to be after- wards mentioned), the bridge thus deprived of means for repair or restoration yielded to decay soon thereafter, or was finally swept away by a flood. Not a vestige of its ruins has been visible for many years. A ferry-boat was substituted for it, and the passage of the river, still very important, came to be called by the anoma- lous name of *^ the boat of bridge," while the farms in the neigh- bourhood still retained their former appellations of Bridgetown of Spey and Upper Briglands. After a lapse of about 250 years^ the boat has, in its turn, given place to another bridge, which was 36G BANFFSHIRE. erected a few years ago at the same spot, at the expense of the Honourable Colonel Grant for the Earl of Seafieid, Richard Wharton Duff, Esq. of Orton, and Patrick Steuart, Esq. of Auchlunkart, and chiefly in consequence of the exertions of this latter gentleman. It is on the suspension principle, on a plan by Captain Brown, and cost about L.3500. Its span is 235 feet. The towers are lofty structures, of ashlar granite. The toll-house, of polished freestone, is remarkably handsome. Un* der the authority of the Banffshire Turnpike Act, a very moderate pontage is exacted, little more than sufficient to keep the bridge in repair ; but the gentlemen who have so liberally stepped for* ward with the funds for it will eventually be well repaid, by the increased value of the land on both sides of the river. Since the erection of the bridge of Fochabers, six miles below, and Craigel- lachie, six miles above, the passage of the river here is not of s^cfa general importance as it once was ; but the accommodation af- forded by this bridge to the public is still very great, and to the districts in the neighbourhood it is invaluable. Connected with the ancient structure, and on the Boharm side of the river, there was a religious establishment called ** the Hos- pital of St Nicholas at the Bridge of Spey.*' This seems to have derived its origin from a gift of *^ Muriel de Pollock, heiress of Rothes, in the beginning of the thirteenth century, of her estate of Inverorkil," (where the bridge was built), ** to God, the Vir- gin, and St Nicholas, in pure alms, for the support of a house there for the reception of poor passengers." (See Shaw tit loco, and Appendix, No. 2.) Shaw gives also, from the Chartulary of Moray, the deeds by which Andrew Bishop of Moray, about the same time, granted to this hospital the church of Rothes with its pertinents, and by which Alexander II., a. d. 1232, granted a pro- vision for a chaplain here. Shaw also mentions a grant to the hospital of the lands of Aikenway by Walterus de Moravia. The ruins of the buildings of this establishment remained in considerable extent, till cleared away for the approach to the pre- sent bridge, when many human bones were disinterred ; but no other article of curiosity. It is presumed, that, at the Reforma- tion, the lands were resumed by the heirs of the original donors, or taken possession of by the neighbouring proprietors. Modem Buildings. — Of modern buildings there is nothing worth notice but the bridge just mentioned, and the mansion-houses of Arndilly and Auchlunkart. The former is chiefly remarkable for BOHARM. 367 its noble situation on the bank of the Spey, in a recess of Benagen, which rises steep on three sides crowned with wood, having the river in front spreading out into a broad pool, with the fine plains and ris« ing woodlands of Rothes on the opposite bank, and the lofty Bel- innes closing the prospect at five or six miles distance. Auch- lunkart House is a most commodious mansion, on the plea- sant bank of a brook, in the middle of the plantations already mentioned. A Grecian colonnade ornaments the fronts and adds to ornament the important utility of a covered portico. A conser- vatory in the same style gives its very tasteful decoration to the south front, and communicates with the drawing-room. There are three meal-mills, each with a drying-kiln ; three saw- mills, two of them fitted up with circular saws ; ten threshing-mills, half of which are driven by water, and the rest by horses. III. — Population. The population in 1801 was 1 161 1811, 1190 1821, 1206 1831, 1385 Yearly average of births for last seren years, • . 40 marriagest . • .7 Number of fiunilies, . . . 296 of inhabited houses, . 2S^ of houses uninhabited or now building, • 4 Persons insane, none; fatuous, 4; blind, 2; deaf and dumb, none. The whole population is rural. So far as can be ascertained there has been little change upon its numbers, for many years past. Towards the end of last century, it was somewhat diminished by the enlargement of farms, but this has been since more than com- pensated by the increase of cottages along the new lines of road, and by the settlement of crofters in the wastes. During the pre- sent century, the population has been steadily though slowly on the rise.* Two of the four proprietors are resident ; and one gentleman * In the population table prefixed to seventeenth volume of the former Statistical Report, there is a great mistake, the occurrence of which affords a strong proof of the necessity for great accuracy and attention in statistical inquiries. The population of Boharm is there given as amounting, in 1755, by Dr Webster's inquiries, to 835, and in 1794, by the roinister*s report, to 1294, and the difference is stated as abso- lute increase, the fact not being adverted to, that in the interval the annexation from Dundurcos had taken place, bringing with it upwards of 500 additional population. Tliere was in truth a decrease in the Boharm amount of Dr Webster*s return, in- stead of an increase. The same mistake appears in the generally correct and valu- able Agricultural Survey of Banffshire, where this annexed Elginshire population figures as swelling an increase in Banffshire. BANFF. A a 308 BANFFSHIUE. of landed property in another parish has his residence here. There are no other inhabitants of independent fortune. The people are very intelligent, thrifty, and good bargain mak- ers« Considering the distance of many from church, they attend public worship with commendable regularity, l^he lower orders have certainly much improved in morality since the suppression of smuggling — a tempting employment — for which the parish had great facilities. IV. — Industry. Affriculturc^^ln consequence of the want of any thing like a complete plan of the extensive estate of Arndilly, it has been found impossible to give the full table of extents required under this head. From such plans as there are of detached portions of that estate, and from the information furnished by the proprietor and tenants, the extent of the arable ground upon it, deducting the portion in the parish of Rothes, the rate of rent per arable acre, and the extent of improveable ground have been ascertained in a tolerably close approximation to the truth, and are so added in ^ the table below to these particulars, as exhibited on the plans of the other properties in the parish. But of the large number of acres under wood, in green pasture, and in heath upon Arndilly, the information obtained is quite insufficient for an accurate state ; and hence the parochial extents of these cannot be given. Imperial acres cultivated on Arndilly estate, . . 15)2 Aucblunkart do. • • 1401 Knockan do. . . . 126 Earl of Seafield*8 do. . . 1700 Total, 4739 Imperial acres that might be profitably taken from tho waste into cultivation, 600 in undivided common, . . . None Rent of Land. — Average rent per imperial acre, including rights of pasturage more or less extensive belonging to each farm, 1 8s. 7d. WageSi S^c. — Good ploughmen per half year, in summer, L.6, 10s., in winter, L.6 ; second do. do., in summer, L. 4, 10s., in win- ter, L.8, 15s.; cattle boys, in summer, L.1, 10s., in winter, L.1, 10s.; women for farm work, in summer, L.2, 10s., in winter, L.1, 10s.; labourers per day, in summer, Is. 8d., in winter. Is. 4d. ; Wrights do., in summer, 2s., in winter. Is. 6d.; masons, do., in summer, 2s. 6d«, in winter. Is. 6d. The above wages for the half year are given along with board and lodging, those by the day ai^ given as full payment. Men engaged by the day for moss work, hay cutting, or bar- BOHARM. 3()9 vest, with yictualsy Is. 6d. ; women. Is. Men engaged for the harvest season, whether short or protracted, with victuals, L.2, 5& ; women, L.1, 10s« Women, per day, planting or hoeing potatoes, hoeing turnips, &c. &c, without victuals, 8d« ; hay cutting, per imperial acre. Is. 9d ; corn cutting, scything, gathering, binding, and stooking, per acre^, 4s. 6d. ; corn cutting by the hook, per threave, of two stooks each, twelve sheaves oats, 2^d« ; barley and wheat, 3d. Trenching moor ground, of average difficulty, twelve inches deep, per Scotch fall, 6d. ; drain casting, three feet deep, one foot wide at bottom, per Scotch ell, 1 ^d. : turf diking, with ditch for enclosing planting, per Scotch ell, 2^. ; stone diking, materials laid down by employer, double dike, four feet high, with rough coping, per ell, 6d. ; single dike, or faced against earth bank, per ell, 5d. Paling, three-barred, sufficient for cattle fences on grass fields, per piece or flake, three yards long, wood and workmanship included, 6d. Masou work, materials laid down by employer, per rood of six yards square, L.1, 10s. ; do. mason affording materials, L.4, 5s. Smith work, exclusive of iron, per lb. for fine work, 4^d. ; do. plain work, l^d. ; rimming a pair of wheels, 5s.; set of horse shoes, including iron, work, and nails, ds» — Utensils : box cart, ordinary si^e, complete, L.7 ; wooden plough, full ironed, L.d, 10s. ; pair of harrows, full-mounted, but without tines, 18s. ; yoke and swingle trees, full mounted, 7s. 6d. ; wheel*barrow, with iron wheel, L.!, 2s. 6d. ; pair of cart wheels, ironed, L.d, 10s. ; full set of harness for one-horse- cart and plough, L.4 ; iron plough, complete, L.3, 10s. — Produce : quar- ter of oats, without fodder, L.1 ; quarter of barley, do. L.1, 5s. ; fodder of each quarter of oats, 6s. 6d. ; do. of barley* 5s. ; hay, per stone of twenty-two lbs., 7d. ; oatmeal, per boll of ten stones imperial, 10s.; potatoes, per boll of eight old corn firlots, sup- posed about five and a-half ewts. imperial, 8s. ; turnips, when sold per Scotch acre, L.5 ; butter, per lb. imperial, 6d. ; cheese, per imperial stone, fourteen lbs., 3s. 6d. ; eggs per dozen, 5d. ; sweet milk per Scotch pint, 2d. ; skimmed milk per do. Id.; ordinary three year old stot, well wintered and fit for grass, 1^6 ; ordinary three year old quey, do. L.4, 10s. ; good cow, four years old, L.6, 10s.; ewe and lambs of English breed, L.1, lOs. ; hill ewe and lamb, 12s.; hill wether, four years old, 12s.; weaned pig, six weeks old, 5s. ; porkers about eight months old, not exceeding six stones imperial, per imperial stone, 4s. ; hens, each lOd. ; chickens, each 4d. ; ducks, each lOd. 370 BANFFSHIRE. Servants. — Servants are engaged universally for the half year, from 26th May to 22d November, and from 22d November to 26th May, except what additional troops are required in harvest, who are engaged for whatever time the harvest may last The men servants, whether married or single, as well as the women servants, always live in the families of their employers, those that are married renting houses either in the neighbourhood, or in the nearest village for their wives and families. It would perhaps be a considerable improvement, if there were more married men ser- vants, and these placed in cottages upon the farms. One great evil of the present system is the constant recurrence of trouble and expense to the masters, and the danger of dissipation to the servants, in making new engagements at the feeing markets at the end of every half year. Labourers. — Much farm-work, cutting and filling drains, clear- ing ditches, turning dung, &c. is done by contract with labourers. Sometimes hay is cut by contract per acre, and more rarely grain. The labourers have generally abundance of employment. Harvesting. — Comparatively little of the cutting in harvest is now done by the sickle, the use of which has been for the most part superseded by the scythe. Each mode has its advantages. The shearing is the neatest work, and more conservative of the grain, but the scything is cheaper as to work, speedier as to time, and more bountiful of fodder. It also admits of earlier stacking, a point of great consequence in such a climate, and if the people are tolerably expert in the use of the instrument, and in the ope- ration of gathering the sheaf after it, it makes much neater work than any one would imagine who has not seen it in employqient. The difference of expense per Scotch acre, between cutting by the sickle and by the scythe, may be reckoned as between 10s. and 5s« 6d. An evil consequence of the general employment of the scythe is, that it has interfered most materially with the har- vest gains of the aged and infirm, who are now almost wholly ba- nished from the fields. It may be here mentioned, that Mr Stewart of Auchlunkart having lately introduced the short^handled scythe for cutting the grass in his plantations, the servants and labourers all around have already universally adopted it, and a long-handled scythe is now nowhere to be seen in this quarter. The workmen say, that, with the short-handled instrument, they ' can cut about one-sixth more per day, and this with less fatigue to themselves. BOHAIIM. 371 Horses. — Horses of suitable size and strength are kept in the proportion of a pair for every thirty-&ve Scotch acres, and the parish rears nearly as many as suffice for its supply. Cattk and Sheep. — The black-cattle are rather of a snaall size, which there have been few attempts to raise, as it is found very suitable to the climate and pasture. The stots and spare queys are generally sold off, when about three years old, in the summer markets of the neighbourhood, and, at that age, the stots are in great request for winterers in the feeding districts. The soil, for the most part, not being pro- ductive of heavy crops of turnips, and the markets for fat cattle being rather distant, what turnips are raised are chiefly given to the milk cows and rising stock, and are seldom applied to fattening for the butcher, except on some of the larger farms. Sheep, as before stated, are few in number, not above 400 in all ; about the half of these are Lintons, kept on the skirts of the hills ; another hundred are also Lintons, kept on old grass by the iwo resident heritors for the supply of their own tables ; and the remainder are of the large English breed, kept on the farms chiefly for the Bake of their wool. Swine. — Swine are kept in considerable numbers. The breeding stocks are maintained at the corn-mills, and at a few of the larger farms. Two feeding pigs, at least, are kept at every farm-steading, and one or two at each of the cottages. These are fed for six or eight months, till they attain about the weight of six stones each, when they are sold to the curers in the neighbouring town of Keith for exportation to London. Even at the present low prices, a large sum of money is thus brought into the parish. Poultry, — Common barn-door fowls and ducks are numerous at every dwelling, but there are few turkeys or geese, except at the barn-yards of the mansion-houses. The eggs of the common fowls are bought up by the country merchants, and exported to the London market, along with the spare butter from the dairies. Eggs alone bring in a sum of about L.500. System of Husbandry . — The prevailing system of husbandry is a six- course shift. The grass ground is broken up for oats ; a se- cond crop is taken, which is called the awald (or one-fold) crop ; then the field is fallowed, — a naked fallow, dunged in spring, where the land is wet, — turnips and potatoes, with occasionally some tares, where it is tolerably dry. Barley or oats are sown the fourth year with grass seeds. From half the extent so sown 372 BANFFSHIRE. out, bay is made the fifth year, and the otBer half is either cut green for house-feeding,, or depastured by the horses and cows. The sixth year is always pasture. Taking all circumstances of soil, situation, climate, and extra pasture into account, this is per- haps as good a rotation as could be adopted ; though another year in pasture, particularly on the lighter soils, or rather a proportion of these devoted to permanent pasture, might seem an improve- ment. In some few instances, the five-course shift has been in- troduced, taking only one crop of oats at the commencement, but this rotation is not a favourite, and, indeed, the soil being gene- rally a stifi^ moist clay, the second crop of oats is always the more productive. Of late, wheat has been attempted on part of the best ground, in consequence of the very low price of oats, being substituted for the oats after ley, which is top-dressed for it, or for the barley after potatoes or bare fallow ; but though it has hitherto paid well, it is, unquestionably, an unsuitable and preca- rious crop for such a climate. The soil is well adapted for lint, but it is not considered a remunerating crop ; a small patch, how- ever, is almost always sown on each farm for domestic purposes. Tares were, a few years ago, introduced for part of the fallow or green crop, to be cut green for the horses, and a small portion of them for this purpose is now sown on the greater number of the farms. The production of turnips is greatly oo the increase, in consequence of the use of bone-manure, introduced since 1829, but very sparingly used till 1833, when the palpable success of the few original experimenters led to its more general application. It bids fe^ir in a few years, if the supply can be continued at its present cost, of about 2s. 9d. per bushel, to become the universal manure for turnips, and to banish bare fallow altogether, except in very wet fields. At first, the bones were applied in large quan- tities, to serve instead of the farm dung for the rotation, and this is still the case in some instances, about thirty bushels being thus given to the Scots acre, strewed in the bottom of the turnip drills ; but what is now the more common practice, is to dibble in the bones upon the top of the drills, in holes about eight inches asunder, giving only from eight to ten bushels per acre, which is found quite sufficient to raise the turnip crop, and then, in the following spring, the farm manure saved from the turnips is given to the barley and grass seeds, much to the improvement of the barley and hay crops, and at a very trifling increase of expense. In either way, the stock of manure is greatly enlarged, and the 6 liOHARM. 373 advantage is very considerable. Within these few years, a farmer from Aberdeenshire has introduced the practice now followed by some others, of growing turnip seeds on a large scale ; the turnips are transplanted into the field for green crop; this practice is troublesome and expensive, but is said to pay well. Oats are un- questionably the staple grain. They are raised of excellent qua- lity, while the barley and the small produce of wheat are generally inferior. The value of the oat-straw, too, for fodder, where so much depends upon cattle, is so much more, as to be held to compensate even for the present inferiority of the price of the grain. They are driven in large quantities to the various bar* hours on the coast, about ten or twelve miles distant from the centre of the parish, for exportation to London and Leith, and a considerable quantity is sent to the Elgin district for meal. The little quantity of wheat is sold at Elgin, and barley finds a ready market at the various distilleries, of which there are four in tlie neighbourhood of Craigellachie, and two at Keith. Lime brought from the large calcining establishments in the parishes of Keith and Mortlach, or calcined from the lime rock within the parish, is abundantly applied as manure, and is consi- dered essential to successful husbandry. On the old arable ground, known to have been limed before, a fresh dose, of about thirty provincial bolls of shells, equal to ninety-six bushels imperial, and producing, of powdered lime, 240 bushels, is given to each* acre once in every currency of a lease of nineteen years, and as near as possible to the commencement of the lease. On ground newly taken in from the waste, as much as 400 bushels imperial of pow- dered lime is given, and on old arable, not limed before, the first application is about 320 bushels imperial. On the arable fields, it is commonly applied during the process of fallowing, or along with the grass seeds. On newly improved lands, it is given before they are put under their first crop. The price per provincial boll of shells is about Is. 6d« The farm-buildings have of late been much improved both in appearance and accommodation, particularly on the property of Auchlunkart ; but, in too many instances, they are still mean and inconvenient There are few permanent enclosures either by stone-dikes or hedges, except in the neighbourhood of the man- sion houses, and more would be very desirable, as leading to longer continuance of the dry fields in pasture ; but the want is less felt, that wood is so abundant and cheap for paling, the use of which for temporary enclosures, is very common. 374 BANFFSHIRE. lu this parish, the spirit of improvement awakened, about forty years ago, by David M^Dowal Grant, Esq., husband of the late proprietrix of Arndilly, and much encouraged by him during the continuance of his connection with the property, has since accom- plished much, particularly since 1808, when the country was open- ed by turnpike roads. Patrick Steuart, Esq. of Auchlunkart commenced a very spirited course as an improver soon after his succession to the estate in 1800, and has since persevered with most praiseworthy energy and most profitable success. A consi- derable deal has also been done on the Seafield property, and much is in immediate contemplation. Throughout the parish, the old arable fields have been much dried by ditches and drains, and, having been freed of unsightly baulks and bogs, have been properly laid together, limed, and brought under a regular rota- tion. The swampy bottoms of the valleys have been drained, and are now almost entirely converted into productive lands, and many acres of moor ground have been reclaimed, partly by the plough, and partly by trenching, which is considered the preferable mode, and is found, on the whole, not more expensive* In such a report as this, the fact surely deserves a place, that Mr Steuart, succeeding to an arable extent in this parish of 812 Scotch acres, has, besides all his plantations already noticed, ad- ded to that extent, either by his own direct operations or by his tenantry, the extent of 800 Scotch acres, and has 120 more, at this present time, in course of improvement ; so that, in the course of two or three years hence, the total number of arable Scotch acres on the estate of Auchlunkart in this parish will be advanced from 812 to 1232. Mr Steuart has been equally energetic and successful in the other parishes into which his property extends. liable of Produce, — Grain, viz. oats with fodder, 5025 at L.1, Gs. 6d. . L.6658 2 6 barley do. 10214 at L.l, lOs. . . 1518 15 Turnips and potatoes, Hay and cut grass, Pasture arable lands, not arable, . Gardens and orchards, Annual thinnings of woods, Fbheries, . Game, ♦ Total produce, . L.14,256 10 * The data en which the above tvblc has been uiadc up, in so far us it relates to the Total grain, JL8176 17 6 a • 1600 . • • 2187 10 L.I877 470 2 6 1847 2 80 6 • • 300 . • \5 • • 100 BOUARM. 375 V. — Parochial Economy. There is no market-town or village. Keith, at the distance of six miles east from the centre of the parish, is the nearest market- town, and the village of Rothes is about the same distance in the opposite direction. Fochabers, close to the lower extremity, is about seven miles from the church, and Dufftown of Mortlach, and Charlestown of Aberlour, near the upper extremity, are each about eight miles from the centre. Elgin is thirteen miles distant. A daily post passes through the parish on the route from Keith to Craigellachie, and there is a sub-office near the centre. One line of turnpike road, admirably formed and kept, passes from Keith to the suspension bridge, opening communication thence to Elgin, Rothes, Garmach, &c. The length of this road within the parish is four and a half miles. Another line of turnpike, called the Boharm road, branches off from the Great North Road half- way between Keith and Fochabers, and passes up the valley till near the upper end, where it divides into two branches, one lead- ing to Mortlach, and the other to Aberlour, Grantown, &c with an offset to the bridge of Craigellachie. The length of this road, including the branch to Mortlach, is, within this parish, about twelve miles. This road is in a state of great disrepair, and one of the bridges, destroyed by the flood of 1829, has not been replaced, so that for two or three years no tolls have been exigible on the line. This is understood to be owing to some dispute among the trustees about a debt contracted for the original for- mation of the road. It is much to be wished that this matter were agricultural produce ot the parish, are the results of much and very careful inquiry and observation, and are as follows, viz. that of the 3761 Scotch arable acres con- tained in the parish, nearly one-sixth, or about 611 acres, may be held as unsuitable for the rotation to which the rest are subjected, as before detailed, being thin poor fields, hill sides, moss-edges, and the like, generally kept in poor pasture, and only occasionally broken up for very poor crops. This portion is taken as pasture at 15s. per Scotch acre. The remaining 3150, estimated as under the six-course rotation, give twO'Sixths of their number for oats, out of ley and awald crop ; taken at three and a half quarters of produce per acre at L. 1 , 6s. 6d. per quarter ; also for oats, about one-half of another one-sixth, the shift after fallow, say 300 acres at four and a half quarters at same price. The other part of the shift after fallow is in barley, say 225 acres at four and a half quarters at L.1, 10s. per quarter. The sixth for fiillow and green crop, 525 acres, gives 400 acres for turnips and potatoes at L.4, — the rest bare fallow. The sixth in new grass gives 300 acres in hay at L.5, 58. per acre, and 225 acres cut green or depastured at L. 2, lOs. each, and the after crop is reck- oned at 10s per acre. The last sixth, in second year's grass, is given as pasture at L.l, 5s. per acre. The unarable pasture, burn sides, hills, glens, &c. is stated at the average rate of 2s. 6d. for each acre of the arable land to which it is annexed. The lesser articles of produce, wheat, flax, tares, 6ce. have been considered as only displacing the staple articles of equal value. The produce stated is the average of ordinary years : but seasons occasionally occur, as in 1816 and 1817, when the grain is r.carly a total failure. 376 UANFFSIIIRE. speedily settled, that the road might be again put in proper con- dition, for not only is the disrepair inconvenient already, especially in winter, but it is always increasing, and must soon terminate in the complete ruin of the present roadway on one of the most im- portant lines in the county. Ecclesiastical State. — The church is situated as nearly as possi - ble in the centre of the parish. It stands on the boundary line between the old parish and the annexation from Dundurcos, — the decreet of suppression and annexation having provided for a new church and manse in this situation. It was built in 1793, and is in good repair. It affords accommodation for about 700. There are, strictly speaking, no free sittings, the whole sittings being divided among the farms, and annexed to them ; but there are no seat- rents, and all are well accommodated, in consequence of all hold- ing some land, a farm, ^ croft, or a kail-yard. Though the church is situated jis conveniently for the general body of the people as perhaps it could be, yet, in a parish of such length, and where the population is so scatte/ed, one church cannot be convenient for all, while the numbers of those most inconvenienced are so few in their respective localities as to prevent all idea of remedying the evil by additional churches within the parish. One or two of these remote districts might be accommodated by churches or preach- ing-stations erected in similar detached corners of the adjoining parishes, by combining them with which suitable congregations might be formed. The manse was built in 1811. It is large, but very far from commodious. Though built in a very damp situation, which must soon impair it, it is still in pretty good condition, having received some trifling repairs in 1818. The glebe is about 28 Scotch acres in extent, of which 18 were arable at the time of the designation, poor thin land ; and the rest have been improved at an enormous expense by the late and pre- sent incumbents. It was given at the time when the church was removed, in excambion for the old glebe of eleven acres, which now rents at L.14. The present glebe would perhaps let for L.25 or L.dO ; but this increase of glebe value is but a poor compensa- tion for the outlay which has produced it. The stipend is, by surrender of teinds in 1817, L.168^ — 55 b, 1 p. 2l. oatmeal, and 28^ bolls barley payable in kind, and 11^ bolls victual, 2. e, half meal half barley, payable by the county Gars, without any separate allowance for communion elements. BOHAllM. 377" There is no chapel of ease, Government church, or Dissenting meeting-bouse of any description. All the parishioners, except about 2O9 belong to the Established Church, and the Episcopa- lian part of the exception, amounting to one-half of it, attend wor- ship generally in the parish church. The other half of the excep- tion consists of one family of Roman Catholics, 5 in number, and 5 Seceders, who worship at Fochabers or Keith. Divine service in the church is generally well attended, always so when the state of the weather and roads allows the more distant parishioners to walk so far. The average number of communi- cants is 510. The annual average amount for the past five years of the whole collections in church is L.d5, of which one collection, averaging L.2, is given to some of the Assembly's four Schemes, and one, amounting to L.5, is appropriated to a fund for procuring medical attendance to the poor at home, or conveying them to that most useful charity, Gray's Hospital at Elgin. About L.5, 10s. is re- quired to pay the salaries of session-clerk, precentor, and kirk* officer, and incidental expenses, and the whole of the rest is paid over to the poor's box. JSc/uca^ton.—* There are three schools, besides two sewing schools for girls, and two or three dame schools for infants. The parish school is situated close to the church in the centre of the parish, and one of the other two in each extremity. One of the sewing schools is in the upper division, the other in the lower. The parish schoolmaster has the maximum salary, the le- legal accommodations, and a share of the Dick Bequest His average amount of fees paid is L.17 per annum. The teacher of the school in the lower end has a salary of L.5 from the Earl of Seafield. The teacher in the upper end has, from Arndilly, the accommodation of a comfortable house and a good garden, but has no salary. The sewing school in the lower end is altogether on the teacher's own account The one in the upper end is support- ed by a salary of L.5 from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, and by an endowment of five bolls of oatmeal, with a free house and garden from the family of Arndilly. The fees in these subsidiary schools are so much more paid in other articles of value than in money, that it is impossible to state their amount. The people in general are fully alive to the advantages of educa- tion. There are only a few, chiefly aged, persons that cannot write, and the instances are rare, indeed, of inability to read. The sub- 378 BANFFSHIRE. sidiary schools remedy, in some degree, in their respective dis- tricts, the evil of remoteness from the parish school ; but they stand greatly in need of better endowments, while there is one district, containing seventeen families, so situated as to have no benefit at least for its younger children from any of the schools, and it is unable to maintain a school within its own bounds. Literature. — There is one parochial library, managed by a com* mittee of subscribers, containing a tolerable collection of useful and interesting books, and likely to prosper. Itistitufions. — There is a parish saving bank, which was insti- tuted in the year 1821, under the management of the minister as cashier, the schoolmaster as accountant, and two or three respect- able parishioners as trustees or directors. At first the deposits, considering the small population and general poverty of the dis- trict, were large, till they amounted at length to the sum of L. 1*200. The diminution of the rate of interest some years ago considerably checked the spirit of depositing, and still operates against accumulation; but the capital still amounts to L.1000, having, for the last three or four years, been neither increased nor diminished, the amount of deposits and accumulating interests on the one hand just balancing drafts and uppayments on the other, each being about L.200 per annum. When an account rises to L.25 it is paid up ; and there are instances of the same individual having been twice paid up in this way. The depositors are chiefly farm servants, unmarried aged females, and parents for small pro- visions to their children. The institution has been and still is most beneficial both to the temporal interests and the moral wel- fare of the people. The proprietors could not lay out money to better account, for their own eventual benefit, as well as for the good of their tenantry, than by giving a little to foster savings banks in connection with their estates, by enabling their managers to pay a more tempting rate of interest than can be done without such aid. Poor. — The average number of poor on the regular roll is 21, of whom an average of two being bedrid or infirm, receive the value of a peck of mea1,]and Is. Sd., in all about 2s. 6d. per week, and the remaining nineteen receive about ds. each, at each of four distribu- tions in the year, besides occasional supplies when necessary. Be- sides this, there is what is called the occasional roll, containing on an average the names of ]2 poor people, who receive, as the money may be spared among them, about lOs. each yearly. Fune- BOHARM. 379 ral expenses for those on the regular roll are allowed at the rate of L.1 each. Females of the poorer class advanced in years, or other- wise disabled from earning their subsistence, form now unquestion- ably the most destitute portion of the rural population, as the rate of pay for spinning flax by the hand-wheel, on which such persons used formerly to depend, has been reduced by the competition] of machinery so low, that its remuneration for the most sedulous in- dustry is insufficient for the barest subsistence, and thus there is little temptation for engaging in the work. For the benefit of such females, the reporter some years ago suggested, and still car- ries on, a plan which may be here detailed, because not only has it been found most beneficial for its object, but its simplicity of operation is such that no dread of trouble attending it need pre- vent its adoption in other quarters. At the commencement of each winter, a small charitable work fund is formed, chiefly by the libe- ral donations of Mrs Sleuart, Auchlunkart, and a list of some fifteen or twenty of the class in question, the most deserving ob- jects of a little kindly assistance, is made out. It is intimated to these, that if they procure flax for themselves, which they always do from some of the country merchants, or in the neighbouring towns, and gain the manufacturer's wages for spinning it, they will for so many months of the winter be paid an additional sum of 4d. for each 8d. so gained, on their application to some one of two or three agents of the charity appointed throughout the parish, to whom they just produce a certificate from the merchant who has received the spun lint back from them, of the amount he has paid them in the preceding week or month. This additional payment or premium brings up the pay for a week's work to a week's sub- sistence, and so supplies the necessary stimulus, so that with very little trouble to any body a charity of L.6 is made to enlarge itself to L.1 8, and to carry the happiness and blessings of industry along with it. Poor^s Funds. — The annual average aipount of collections paid over to the poor's box, is L.22, 10s. ; interest of L.200 lent by the kirk treasurer on heritable security, L. 8; one-half rent of Bede rigs of Dundurcos, 10s. ; average amount of income from other sources, penalties, donations, &c L.12; total, L.4d. Besides oc- casional donations, the heritors, whenever there is an extraordi- nary demand, are never backward to supply contributions in propor- tion to their respective valued rents, to prevent encroachment on the stock of the kirk-session. There is a general reluctance still 380 BANFFSHIRE. to apply for parochial aid, but from various causes it is gradually wearing out. Innsj Sfc. — There are 4 licensed victualling houses or inns. Perhaps this number is required on such a length of road, but then the whole four are spirit-shops also, and by far the greater part of the business is the sale of spirits drunk on the premises. Hence each of them is unquestionably a nuisance in its neighbourhood, the habitual resort of the profligate, and the seducing tempter of the unwary. The best that can be said of them, if they are all necessary, is that they are necessary evils. Were the regulations of law enforced as to hours, &c. the evils might be somewhat abat- ed ; but this cannot be expected in a district so remote from police. Fuel. — The general fuel is turf and peat, procured easily in the lower part of the parish from an extensive moss, but with great difficulty in the middle and upper parts, from mosses on the hills almost exhausted. Where, however, turf is scarce, wood is abun* dant and cheap. Coals are used by the resident proprietors, and partially by the more substantial tenants. They are brought from Port-Gordon, on the Banffshire coast, at a medium distance of twelve miles, or from Garmach, at the mouth of the Spey, at a medium distance of fourteen miles. The price of the imperial barrel at the shore is about Is. 4d. and the cartage of a barrel 6d. but a large proportion is brought up by the returning carts, which have carried down grain for exportation. Where easiest procuredf the cart load of peats of the size generally taken on the farmer's carts, is about Is., exclusive of carriage. In use, this is equal to a barrel of coals, but the carriage is more expensive when there is oiherwise full employment for the horses. Where turf is more dif- ficult to be procured, and of worse quality, the inhabitants would in fact pay much less for coals and wood, and be more comfort- able with these, but the turf ashes are prized for manure, and the expense, which consists in labour alone, is not sufficiently esti- mated. Drawn vp in 1834. Addenda. Thb following addenda bring the foregoing report up to the present date. 1. By the census of 1841, the population of the parish was found to have considerably diminished since 1831, being now only 1261, or 124 less. The causes of this are, an enlargement of farms on the Seafield property, the pressure of a series of late BOH ARM. 3^1 years and bad crops, and an increased disposition for emigration to the colonies. 2. Notwithstanding the unfavourable character of the seasons of late, the progress of agricultural improvement has been steadily going on. Furrow or frequent draining has been introduced, in a few instances, with most beneficial eflfects. Bone manure, not- withstanding its greatly increased price, is in almost universal use for turnips, greatly enlarging the production of this useful article. It is now very often applied along with a small quantity of dung. On the Seafield estate, many of the improvements in contempla- tion at the date of the report have been executed, and more are in progress. The farms have been properly arranged and subdi- vided, and some of them substantially enclosed. Several useful roads have been made. Drainage has been carried on on a very extensive plan, and with most beneficial effects ; and many plan- tations have been made, which will soon afford both shelter and ornament to the district. 3. The reporter's plan for supplying the wants of aged females, by the medium of their own industry, has lately failed ; not from any want of funds, but from the impossibility of procuring the materials of industry, there being no such thing now as flax given out for hand-spinning in this part of tlie country. This class of our poor population are perhaps the most destitute of all, now that the domestic manufactures, which used to sustain them, are so much superseded ; and their case, for some suitable provision, is strongly recommended to the consideration of the charitable. 4. The incoromodiousness of the manse has been wholly reme- died by a considerable addition, and a small change of internal arrangements, most handsomely granted last year by the heritors as a personal favour to the present incumbent, for which he is happy to have this public opportunity of recording bis thanks. 5. The deficient bridge, on the Boharm road, has been replaced by the Earl of Seafield, and, instead of a temporary wooden bridge over the Fiddich, a very handsome structure of stone has been erected at an expense of L.450, supplied by the liberality of the gentlemen in the neighbourhood. It was opened in the end of last year. The road has also received some slight repairs, and is kept passable by the several gentlemen through whose properties it extends, but it is still in a very bad state, demanding a thorough repair, so as to permit tolls again to be raised for its support. June 16, 1842. PARISH OF MARNOCH.* PRBSBYTERY OF STRATHBOOIE, SYNOD OF MORAY. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, — ABERCHiRDERy the original name of this parish, was, no doubt, taken from Sir David Aberkerder, Thane of Aberker- der, who lived about the year 1400, and possessed a great part of it. He is mentioned as paying revenue to the Bishopric of Mo- ray ; his daughter was married to Sir Robert Innes, brother to John Innes, for seven years Bishop of Moray previous to 1414. The present name is derived from St Marnoch. A well near the manse is called the Saint's Well, and another, at no great distance, the Lady's Well. There is a village in the parish, contain- ing 800 inhabitants, still called Aberchirder. Some say this word signifies the mouth or opening of the moss, and that this place was so called from its being near the edge of a large moss. The Earl of Fife is patron. The right of patronage connected with the property of Kinardy was purchased by the late Earl James. Extent and Boundaries. — The parish is of very irregular shape. It lies along the north bank of the river Doveron for about 6 miles, and extends backwards from the river to the distance of 5 or 6 miles. Some of the extreme points are 8 miles apart. It is bounded on the south by the Doveron, on the opposite side of which lie the parish of Inverkeithny and part of Rothiemay ; .on the west, by Rothiemay ; on the north, by Ordiquhtll, Boyndie, Banff, and Alvah ; and on the east, by Forglen. The superficial extent is about 34 square miles. Topographical Appearances^ S^c. — The southern parts of the pa- rish are beautifully situated, have a fine exposure, and consist of ear- ly fertile soil. Some of the haugh ground is superior. There are several most delightful spots along the river-side. The Inch line on the property of Edward Ellice, Esq. of Ardmellie, is remark- * Communicated by the Rev. D. Henry. MAUNOCH. 383 able for a variety of very lai^e and beautiful trees. Some larches in particular have here attained their largest dimensions. They must have been planted about eighty years ago» soon after the larch was first introduced into Scotland. The mansion-house on this property, occupied by William Stronach, Esq. commands an extensive view of the valley of the Doveron. The grounds are regularly laid out, and are in the highest state of cultivation. The steep-wooded hill of Ardmellie is the highest ground in the pa- rish. The manse stands at the foot of it on the bank of the river, at the junction of the Burn of Crombie. The church is on a rising ground at a little distance, in the middle of a Druidical circle, two large stones of which now only remain. The church- yard lies at the river-^dge, — a site of peculiar interest and beauty. It contains several monuments of some architectural elegance. The most remarkable is that of " Reverendus et Pius Geo. Mel- drum de Crombie, et quondam de Glass, Prseco.'^ He was Epis- copal minister or bishop of Glass, and laird of Crombie in this pa- rish ; died 1692, aged seventy-six. The ornaments on the tomb are very rich and well carved. There is a vault attached to it ; and, in a recess in the centre of the elevated part of the monu- ment, there is a half-length figure of the bishop, with cap on, and full sacerdotal robes, the hands holding a book, and altogether an cmcommonly rich and highly-finished piece of architecture, in freestone from Elgin. A portion of the old church still remains in the grave-yard. It had been used% a Roman Catholic, Epis- copal, and Presbyterian parish church in succession. There is a very neat vault, erected by public subscription in 1831, in which the bodies of the dead are laid for two months previous to being interred. This plan originated in consequence of a grave having been robbed of its dead, which occasioned a great sensation in the parish. The river, a little below this, at the farm of Euchrie, takes several most remarkable turns. — The bridge, built in 1806, is the next object of interest. It consists of two arches, one of which is of a very wide span, and stands high on two opposite rocks. A little below, stands the old tower-looking mansion of Kinardy, on a promontory at the junction of the burn of the same name with the Doveron. Its situation is peculiarly picturesque and commanding. This house is very ancient, — has been built at various periods, — and was, together with much of the property of the parish, held by the Chrichtons of Frendraught, whose chief resi- dence of Frendraught was in the neighbouring parish of Forgue. The river then winds its way towards the church, manse, and BANFF. B b 3S4 BANFFSHIRE. village of Inverkeithny, on the opposite bank, about two miles diis^ tant. Here on the Marnoch side is a place called Chapelton, where, no doubt, there had once stood a place of worship. A little lower down are the grounds and mansion-house of Ne- therdale, — the property of Mrs Rose Innes, second heritor of the parish. The house is modern and handsome. The garden and grounds are beautifully laid out and well wooded. There are beech hedges here, remarkably large and fine specimens. The property, chiefly consisting of several lai^ farms, is very well cultivated. The middle portion of the parish from west to east is considera* bly diversified with rising grounds, the summits of most of them being covered with young thriving plantations, which afford shelter and very much improve the appearance of the country. The hollows or straths between are well cultivated, and watered with small bums or rivulets. The soil in some places is dry, but commonly humid and mossy. On the west side stands the old castle of Crombie, now the property of the Earl of Seafield. It has the appearance of having been a place of some strength. It now consists of three stories, but, like the similar castle of Kinardy, was at one time much higher. It is supposed to be of very ancient date. In the northern parts of the parish, consisting of the small ]pro* perties of Barrie, Culvie, Thorax, and the larger one of Auchio* derran, the soil, in geneill, though pretty fertile, is of a mossy nature, the exposure rather unfavourable, there being no wood« Much has been done of late years to improve these properties. In this part of the parish, the only resident proprietor is Robert Ogilvie, Esq. of Culvie. Hydrography, — There are numerous small rivulets tributary to the Doveron ; and springs of different qualities abound in the pa^ rish. Most of the springs are strongly impregnated with iron. Se« veral in the lands of Crombie and Auchintoul have been of late dis- covered, containing sulphur, &c. There are very extensive mosses in the parish, especially on the hill of Crombie, and on the lands of Auchintoul and Auchinderran; these are much resorted to for peats. Mineralogy. — The rock in the parish is principally granite, of which there are several quarries wrought to a considerable extent. One of these, on the lands of Cluny, of a gray colour, yields the largest and finest post for all sizes of cut granite, equal to any in Scotland. A limestone is also found in Ardmellie, A kiln had been formerly in operation here. The range of granite rock seems 6 MARNOCH. 385 ■to terminate, and that of a blue limestone seems to commence, about the burn of Kinardy^ Land'-owierii — The land-owners in the parish are, William Aitken, Esq. of Auchintoul ; Mrs Rose Innes of Netherdale ; Earl of SeaBeld, Crombie, and Crana ; Earl of Fife's Trustees} Kinard; ; Mrs Chalmers of Cluny ; The Right Honourable Ed. Ellice of Ardmellie; Arthur Abercrombie, Esq. of Auchinderran ; William Duff, Esq. of Tillydown ; Robert OgiWie, Esq. of Culvie ; Wiffiam Grant, Esq. of Barry ; and John Benton, Esq. of Thorax^ Mansion-housesy Sfc. — Near the centre of the parish stands the mausioD-house of Auchintoul, now the property of William Ait- ken, Esq., the largest proprietor in the parish. This was once the residence and property of General Alexander Gordon, who entered the service of Russia as a cadet, under Peter the Great, and rose to high favour and command in his army. After he re- tired to his native country, he took a prominent part in the rebel- lion of 1715, commanded the Highland clans at Sheriffmuir, and conducted their retreat with great skilL He was after this attaint- ed for treason, bat escaped by a misnomer, and thus saved his life and property, but was obliged to remain concealed for several years in France, whence he returned in 1724* He wrote in two volumes the history of his ** Great'* master and fnend, was much respected, and died aged eighty«two years : he was buried in the church-yard here, but no memorial marks the spot His second wife was a daughter of Sir T. Moncrieff of Moncrieff. The house on this pro- perty is a lai^ plain building, forming three sides of a square, — one side was built by General Gordon. It has been much im- proved by the present pn^rietor ; the situation is commanding. The gardens are beautifully walled with dressed granite, and well kept The hot bouses and. conservatory are extensive, and there is a very handsome square of most commodious offices. The woods and belts are of considerable extent, and thriving on this property ; and within half a mile of the house stands the village of Aberchirder, consisting of three streets, regularly laid out, running parallel to each other, having a large square in the middle, and many excellent substantial houses recently built On the east, stands the mansion-house of Cluny, the property of Mrs Chalmers. It is a modem structure, beautifully built of dressed granite in the cottage style. The house was built, and the whole place laid out by the late Mr Chalmers, with great judgment and taste. The whole is in a most complete state. ZS6 BANFFSHIRE. RDd the young plantations are very ornamental* This property, along with another in an adjoining parish, was destined by the late Mr Chalmers to the establishment of an hospital in Banff. .. Parochial Registers, — The parochial registers are, Ij^, book of discipline, commencing in the year 1666, kept regularly, con- taining also the money transactions of the kirk-session, with regard to the poor; Qd, register of baptisms, commencing in the year 1676, and kept regularly ; 8€f, register of marriages, continued from 1672 to 1680. There is then a complete blank till 1773, but from that period the registration is regular. III. — Population. The population of the parish in 1841 was 2876. The number of families 623, all belonging to the Established Church, with the exception of about 40. Of these, about twelve belong to the Se- cessioiv Church, about ten to the Roman Catholic, and six to the Episcopal church, and about eight to the Baptist communion, all of whom have places of worship in the village. IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — The real rental of the parish is about L.7000. The highest rent of land per acre is L.3, the ordinary rent is from 18s. to L.1, 2s. A considerable portion does not exceed from 12s. to 15s. per acre. It is believed that agriculture has, within the last twenty-five years, by the improvement of waste land, added about one-third to the rental of the parish. Improved breeds of cat- tle have been introduced in several of the farms, and crossed with the native breeds, with apparent advantage. The new system of drainage has also commenced here. The lands of Crombie have been much improved of late years by the two enterprising tenants.. One of them, Mr Smith, gained a medal from the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland in 1836, for the improvement of waste and other land. V. — Parochial Economy. Markets, Sfc. — In the village, there are regular markets for feeing servants at the terms of Whitsunday and Martinmas. During the winter, there is a weekly grain market on Monday, as also an an- nual market on the second Tuesday of March, for horses and cat- tle, called Marnoch fair. There are six public houses in the pa- rish, one in the country, and five in the village, — three too many. There are a branch of the North of Scotland Bank, and a stamp- office in the village, as also a post*office, and regular runners every lawful day to Banff and Huntly. The turnpike between these places runs through the village, and also the road between Tur* 3 MARNOCH. 887 I riff and Portsoy, the village being almost in the centre between these places, and from eight to ten miles distant from each. The parishioners of Marnoch are an industrious, quiet, well-behaved people, and possessing a high degree of intelligence. Library. — There is an extensive parochial library, as well as a- juvenile library. Many of the parishioners are much given to reading. It may be mentioned, that, in the course of two weeks, 60 copies of Dr Dewar's ** Body of Divinity*' were sold in the parish. Ecclesiastical State. — The stipend, as last augmented, is 128 bolls of meal, the same number of barley, and L.10 for commu- nion elements. The glebe contains about five-and-a-quarter acres arable, worth L. 3, Ss. per acre, and three and a-quarter acres of grass, worth' L.1, 10s. per acre. The manse was built in 1805, a plain, comfortable building, in good repair, and beautifully si- tuated. The church, built some years prior to this time, and, from insuESciency, rebuilt within a few years after, is still little fitted for comfort It is one of those old-fashioned barn-looking houses, which are now very properly disappearing, to make way for more improved places of worship. The Protestant ministers of the parish were, — Hugo Chalmers, Episcopal minister of Marnoch, who died in 1707. His son, Alex- ander Chalmers, succeeded him as Presbyterian minister, for which office he had been educated by bis father. — Mr James Innes, who died in the year 1803; and Mr William Stronach, who died in 1837. Mr John Edwards was presented by the patron in 1837 ; another presentation was issued by the patron in 1838 in favour of Mr D. Henry. The proceedings that led to this second presentation, or that ensued, need not be recited here. We may merely mention, that they led to the erection of a very handsome new church and inanse near the village. The church contains about 1000 hearers, and the whole cost more than L.2000. Education. — There are generally three or four schools in the parish, viz.* the parochial school, taught by the Rev. J. Largue, in the most efficient manner, and according to the most approved modern system, and two or three unendowed. There is not so .much need of an increase of the number, as of assistance to some of those already in operation, or perhaps of a second parochial school in the village, or a more centrical position for the present one. BANFF. * 388 BANFFSUIUE. The amount of the schoolmaster's salary is L.34, 4s. 4id. ; the probable amount of fees, about L.d3 ; and of other emoluments, vi^. from Dick's Bequest, Brace's Legacy, sessioi^-clerkship, about L.5a Poor. — The average number of persons regularly on'the poor's roll is about 50, receiving from 5s« to 9s. per quarter; besides these, a good many poor persons receive occasional aid* The col- lections at churdi were wont to amount to about L.70, and the heritors generally gave about L.40 per annum. Now, however, a new arrangement is about being made. Besides the above, the population at large are most liberal in alms-giving, relieving very many cases of poverty by local subsQi^tions. Jvoit 1842. ^ , PARISH OF KEITH.* PRESBYTERY OF STRATHBOGJE, SYNOD OF MOEAV. I. — Topography and Natural History. Extenif4fc. — Tue parish is about 6 miles long and as many broad. It lies in that fertile track of country called Strathisla, through which runs the water of Isla. It is bounded on the north, by the parishes of Rathven and Deskford ; on the south, by those of Glass and Botriphnie ; on the west, by Grange. The prevailing soil is loam and clay : the climate moist and cold. The general appearance of the parish is not very inviting. Yet, along the banks of the Islay, there are beautiful and rich corn- fields in the highest state of cultivation. The course of the Islay through the parish may be said to be from south to north. II.-^CiviL History. Manstofi'Sfotues^'^A modern and respectable mansion-house has been recently erected at Edintore, the seat of the only heritor resident in the parish. * The proceedings consequent on the presentation to the parish of Marnoch in 1637 led to the deposition, by the General Assembly in 1841, of the Rev. J. Thom- son, Minister of this parish : in which Mr Thomson and a minority of the General Assembly do not acquiesce. They have obtained a suspension and interdict from the Court of Session. KBITH* 389 . Superstitions. — The parish records bear, since tlie establish- ment of Presbyterianism, that the session took up a case of witch- craft against a woman, upon an accusation, that, as often as she passed the door of the Earl's mill, the mill-clap stopped. There was, in the north part of the parish, a rig of uncultivated land, called the Gun Rig, set aside to propitiate the evil spirits; and tradition says, that, when the farmer, about fifity years ago, was about to improve it, one of his cattle fell down dead. A stone* coffin containing some ashes was found in a heap of stones, which the present tenant removed, he having succeeded in improving the land, without injury to man or beast. Eminent Men, — This parish had the honour of giving birth to Mr James Ferguson, the celebrated writer on astronomy and na^ tural philosophy. III. — Population. Id 1801, the population wna 3284 1811, 3352 1821, 3926 18B1, . 4464 1841, . 4458 The villages of New Keith and Old Keith contain 1805 inha- bitants ; Fife Keith, 579 ; Newmill, 44a The Banffshire part of the parish contains 1349, and the Morayshire, 276. IV. — Industry. The people are generally employed in agriculture, and the va- rious trades which the cultivation of the land requires. On the hill of Oldmore, there is a population to the amount of 300. The produce of the land is not sufficient for more than three months maintenance of the people in the year, even when the crop is good ; and as it often fails from frost and other causes, they have to depend entirely on the sale of peats, which they pre- pare during summer, and drive to Keith all the year round, with small carts and ponies — frequently a female being the driver. The same, though on a somewhat less scale, may be said of Bogbain and the hill of Achanacy. The farms in the other parts of the parish vary in size, from crofts of 5 or 6 acres, to farms of 150 to 200 acres. Agricultural Improvements. — Subsoil ploughing is carried on with doubtful success; bone manure answers well; and ^furrow-, draining is practised both with small stones and tiles. Crosses of the native breed of cattle of the country with Teeswater and short- horned bulls have answered well. Rent. — Real rent of the parish, L.6500 ; highest rent per acre L.3, Ss. 390 BANFFSHIRE. The produce of the parish for export consists of cattle, corn, barley and bear, pork, eggs,, butter, and cheese, of which a great quantity is sent to the London market The land is culti- vated generaUy on the six-shift rotation of cropping, two years grass, two corn, one potatoes or turnips, and one corn or barley. There is no wheat cultivated in the parish ; yet, there being two flour-mills, its manufacture is carried on to some extent. In New and Old Keith, there are 838 feus, to each of which are annexed from two to six acres of land, so that every feuar, whatever his trade or occupation, produces his own milk, butter, and cheese, and, in many cases, a sufficiency of meal for the use of his family. In Fife Keith, there are 120 feus, and to each feu are annexed from 4 to 6 acres of land. In Newmill, there are 100 feus, with five acres of land to each feu ; and here, the people are more devoted to agriculture than in the other two villages, there being in pro- portion fewer tradesmen. Manufactures. — There is a tannery, which employs two tanners and one currier ; a distillery, which produces about 20,000 gallons of whisky annually ; a tobacco manufactory,, which requires from 40 to 50 cwt annually. There are two mills for carding and spinning of wool, and a bleachfield for country use ; a mill for home-grown flax ; six corn-mills, and two flour^mills, which carry on a great trade, supplying the country for upwards of twenty miles round. A vein of limestone runs through the parish, from north- east to south-west, which is manufactured with advantage at Black* hillock, Douglas Brae, and Maisley, producing annually from 80,000 to 40,000 bolls of lime, which finds a ready market, be- sides supplying the surrounding districts both in Aberdeenshire and Morayshire, and giving employment to many carters and small crofters, both in driving the coals from Port- Gordon to the quar- ries, and driving the lime. V. — Parochial Economy. Villages, — Old Keith is a very ancient place, and, at no very distant period, was celebrated for an annual market held in Sep- tember, to which merchants from Glasgow and the other manu- facturing towns in the south repaired in great numbers, where they met those from the north, as far as Orkney, and exchanged their various commodities. So great was the concourse of people there, that the historian of Moray says, '^ There was not accommoda- tion for them, and they occupied the barns and out-houses in the country for many miles round." New Keith is a clean thriving-like village, on a rising ground sloping towards the east, with three KEITH. 391 parallel streets running due south and nortb, intersected by a nar- row lane between each alternate feu. The feus are fifteen^yards front by sixty yards back, and pay from lOs. to L.1, 5s. feu-duty. There is a town*house and lock-up-house, and a large square or market-place, where there is a weekly market on Friday for the sale of all sorts of produce. There are six annual markets for the sale of cattle, horses, and sheep. At those of June and September a great deal of wool is still disposed of. New Keith may still be considered the market-town of the district It was begun to be built about the year 1750. There are branches of three banks, — the Aberdeen Bank, the Town and County Bank, and the North of Scotland Bank. In it are all the principal merchants' shops, the residences of all the solicitors and doctors, while the inn, which is a commodious building, is the resort of all the commercial travel- lers, and the Mail and Defiance coaches stop at it daily. Gas- light has been lately introduced. There is likewise a Savings Bank in New Keith, which was instituted in 1827 by the parish minis- ter. It is conducted by a secretary and thirty directors. There is a subscription library containing upwards of 600 volumes of standard works, and several other libraries connected with seve* ral of the congregations of the place. Fife Keith is a clean healthy village, and was begun to be built in 1817 by Lord Fife, on the north side of the Islay. It has a fine building adapted for an inn. The whole village, in a commercial view, has been a com- plete failure ; for, except a few merchants* shops, and some three or four tradesmen, the population may be said to depend on their crofts of land. It has four markets for the sale of cattle annually. Newmill was begun as early as New Keith ; but, being at a dis- tance from public roads, it did not thrive, — the people depend- ing entirely on their land. It has one annual well frequented mar- ket for the sale of cattle, horses, and sheep, in the month of October. Ecclesiaitical State. — The parish church is a substantial erection, built in the year 1616. It is 100 feet long, and 60 wide, and is seated to contain 1800. It has a square tower 1^0 feet high, in which are placed the clock and bell. The Roman Catholic cha- pel is a neat building, with a highly ornamented gable fronting the market place of New Keith. It was erected in 1828» and is ca- pable of containing 340. The General Assembly's church con-' tains sittings for 700. The Independent chapel has seats for 240. The Secession church has seats for 450. The Episcopalian cha- pel is seated to contain 150, and has a fine organ. There are about 60 communicants connected with the Seces- 392 BANFFSHlftE. sion ; about 400 belong to the Roman Catholic profession ; Epis- copalrSDS and Independents not above 30 each. Education. — The parish school is a large and commodious house, built for two teachers, and capable of accommodating 260 scholars. It was erected at the expense of the heritors in 1838^ There is a school-house in Newmill capable of holding 100. There are likewise three other school-houses in the parish, erect* ed within these few years by public collections and donations from private individuals and the heritors, obtained by the exertions of the minister. One of these schools is at Achanacy, another at Tarrycroys, and another at Oldmore* The parish schoolmaster, besides the usual salary from the he- ritors, enjoys the Dick Bequest; and btfaro the Schoolmaster^s Act passed, there were mortifiadi for the benefit of a schoolmaster in New Keith the lands and estate of Edendrach, the minister and kirk-session of tke parish being appointed trustees ; but, about a century ago, a progenitor of the Duff family, alleging that the land had fallen to him from the non-payment of the teinds, which he at that time rented from Forbes of Craigievar, got pos* session of the land for the yearly payment of 300 merks Sects to the schoolmaster — one of the elders at the time protesting against the transaetioa. About fifteen years ago, an attempt was made to reclaim the lands to their original purpose ; but the title was found to have prescribed. The late Dr Simpson of Wor- cester, in the year 1840, left L.500, 3 per cent consols, the inte- rest of which was to increase the income of the schoolmaster. Yet, notwithstanding all these advantages, the scUool-fees are higher than in any of the surrounding parishes. The schoolmaster of Newmill receives, conjointly from the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, the Earl of Fife, and the interest of L.100 mortified by the late Mr Chalmers, Newmill, an endowment of about L.25 annually, besides the school-feesw iPoor.-^There are about 130 on the poor roll, who are under the guardianship of the kirk-session, and receive annually L.250 Sterling, derived from charitable collections, the use of the mort* cloth, the sale of burial ground, and the interest of some donations, —the heritoi^ making up the deficiency. It is given in sums, va- rying according to the condition of the claimants, from 3s. a week to 4s. a quarter. July 1842. COUNTY OP BANFF. This county is bounded on the north, by the Moray Frith ; on the south and south-east, by Aberdeenshire ; on the west, by Morayshire. It is situated in the 58th degree of north latitude, and between 2^ 18' and 3^. 40' west longitude. It contains about 647 square miles. It iff supposed to contain about 120,000 acres under cultivation. The valued rent is L.79,200 Scots, and the annual value of land, as assessed in 1815, amounted to L.79,396, ds. 4d., and of houses, L.5514, 28. Population in 1841, 50,076. Inhabited houses, 11,228. Parliamentary constituency in 1841, 760. Table I. Showing the number of persons committed for trial or bailed in the county, for different offences, in the year 1840: Offbnces against the pereon, • 13 property, with violence* • 6 without violence, 9 Malioioua offences against property^ * 8 Forgery, and offences against the currency, 1 Other ofllencesj . . . .5 87 39^ BANFFSHIRE. a Cm O a -3 .5 o c5 <^ •« o CO 1 CO bfl c 'S o CO n Eh mm S c o •a •c c o e § a m -a 9 C B < E E 8 E 1 JS <8 « o ooo o o ooo o c» p^ .ot^o : :^ o o^o :o s S) sss SS3 S IF OCOO . . , ^4 *• «« *x M M M S M .* . O O fa 3 g OOOQDO OOOQOO 2 o c ooooo OOO oooo o^ o oooo o o 8 2 o 9 I oooo ooooooooo oooo ^r^o^oDOt^o*^ oooo o O 00 00 ^ o -* '^l' i oooo ooooooooo oooo 0000000000 • ■ • * ooooo o ooooo .o J J! QQ i s m -"■^s oooo ooooooooo ooooooooo-^ M O O "^ O -I"* t^ O -^ OD O -^ O "^ "^ O O 00 00 •* O "* -* •S « ^ « — — : my of, 138 — general observations on, 142 Inverkeithny, parish of, 21 1 Iron foundry in Banff, 48 Ironstone found 'in Kirkmichael, 296 Isla water, 209, 214, 388 Itlaw, cairn at, 162 Jail, the Bajiff, 60— the Tomintoul, 812 James I. adventure of, in Gartly, 96 James au Tuim, cave of, 124— atrocities of, ISO James, Earl of Findlater, career of, 922 John Legg*s well, 179 Kebat water, 297 Keith, parifth of, 888 — its extent, boun- daries, &C., 388— civil history, 888-^ population, 389 — parochial economy of, 390— Old and New villages of, 889, 390 Kemplemore, well at, 148 Kilmaichlie, spring at, 125 — remains found at, 132— Druidical temple at, 133 Kinardy house, 383 King's cairn in Rathven, the, 5254 King's haugh, the, 196 Kinnnird, Alexander, murder of, by tbe Royalists in 1746, 21 Kinnermony, daugh of, 112 Kirkmichael, parish of, 296 — origin of its luime, extent, &c., 296— its history and owners, 300 — population, 801 — parochial economy, 805 — observations on, 312 Kirkney, ruins of old chapel at, 97 Kirktown of Boindie, improvements on, 234 Knock, headland of the, 221— hill, 79, 80, 179, 213 Kymah water, 126 Labour, pi ices of, see Wages Lady well in Grange, the, 214 Land, rent of, see Rent — ownen of, 1 7, 66, 81, 86, 106, 116, 132, 183, 197, 201. 205, 210, 211, 227, 253, 284, 300, 325, 364, 385 Language, peculiarities of, in Banff, 85 — see also Population, character of Law courts, Cullen, 353 Law hillock, the, 67 Lawtie, Lieutenant, monument to, 34 Leacht, ironstone at, 298 Leases, periods of, 40, 71, 89, 173, 284, 289, 304, 334 Leslie, Hans Geoige, Esq., of Dunlugas, 160— William, bequest by, 352 Lesroudie, ruins of chapel at, 197— dis- tillery, 198 Letterfourie house, 255 Ley, urn found at, 186 Libraries in Banff, 53— Boindie, 242— Boharm, 878— Cullen, 851 — Desk- ford, 76— Fordyce, 194— Foiig^en, 94 Gamrie, 294— Gartly, 101^— Mar- 400 BANFFSHIRE. nocb, d87--Moitlach, 109 — Ordiqu* hiU, 83— Portsoy, 194— Rathven, 267 — Tomintoulp 310 Liechestoun, reioains found at, 66 Linen nianufactorj in Cullen, 340 — ^in Rathven, 259 Linn of Deakford, the, 64 Literary Society of Banff, the, 52 Live-cattle, exportation of, from Banff, 42 Live-stock, 39, 71, 82, 89, 99, 107, 1 17, 136, 171, 189, 217, 234, 258, 288, 304, 362, 371 Li vet, water of, 124, 125 Lochavon, 297 Lochbuilg, 298 Lochy water, 297 Lodgehills, coins, &c. found at, 225 Logic bum, 275— bead, 179 Longevity, instances of, in Boindie, 222 —in Cullen, 315— in Deakford, 69 Longman, village of, 291 Longmore, Andrew, improvements by, 235 Lorimer, John, bequests by, 109, 349 — William, bequest by, 350 Lumsden, Harry Leitb, Esq., 160 Lurghill, the, 214 Lynn of Ruthrie, the, 114 M' Donald, Mr, of Grantown, bequest by, 311 M*Dowall, William Grant, Esq. of Am- dilly. 364 Macduff, village and harbour of, 290, 291 — ^ita exports, &c. 291 — rope- work at, 290 — chapel and quoad sacra paiish of, 292, 296,— hill of, 44 M^Grigor, Sir James, birth place of, 132 — Captain, of Delavoras, 300 Macpherson, James, birth-place and ca- reer of, 22 — his trial and execution, ~ 23— Miss, bequest by, 310 Maisley, limestone quarries at, 390 Malcolm 11. defeat of the Danes by, 104 — Canmore, residence of, in Cabrach, 196 Malshach hill and moor, 99 Manufactures in Banff, 43 — Deskford, 71— Inveraven, 137— Portsoy, 190 — Cabrach, 198— Boindie, 237— Rath- ven, 258— Gamrie, 290— Cullen, 340 —Keith, 390 Mar, Earl of, 153 Marble of Portsoy, the, 180 Marjory, Countess of Athol, 153 Marnocb, parish of, 382 — its extent, &c. 382 — history and owners of, 385 — its population and parochial eco- nomy, 386 — ^ministers of, from 1 707, 387 Mary, Queen, visit of, to Gartly ca-itle, 97 Maud hiU, 246 Maunderleo, bill of, 144 Mayen house, 201 Meldnim, Rev. George, 388 Melrose house, 284 Meteorolof^ and climate, 6, 64^ 64, 96» 103, 113. 124, 179, 221, 246, 274, 297.315.357 Middleton of Inveniry, family of, 300 — Lieutenant- Colonel William, 300 MiU hill, tumuli at, 97 Mill of Banff, distillery of, 44 Milne, Mr, Agricultural improvements by, 39, 234 Mineralogy, see Geology Monastery, Carmelite, remaina of, in Banff, 26— its history, 27— site of, at Grange, 213 Monro, General, destruction of Banff house by, 28 Montrose, the Marquis of, capture of Banff by. 18— -ravages of, in Boindie, 228— capture of Cullen by, 319 Monuments, remarkable, in Cullen, 927 Moodie, Dr, birth-place of, 97 Morange, district of, 124 Moray frith, the, 246 Morrison, Alexander, Esq. of Mount- bleary, 86, 160— James, of Wfayntie, 226 Mortlach, parish of, 103— its extent, boundaries, &c. 103— history, 104 — population, 106 — and parochial eco- nomy, 108 — ^battle of, 104^remains attesting it, 106 Moss in Deskford, 65 Mountbleary bouse, 163— paintings in, 163— 'Stone coffin found at, 161 — cas- tle, site and history of, 162-->distiUery, 164 Mountcoffer wood, 44 — hill, 146 Mowbray, thanedom of, 15 Mulben bum, 359 Muldeary, hills of, 361 Municipal constitution of Banff, peculi- arities of, 47 Murray, James, bequest by, 185 Museum, the Banff, 52 Na-du-locban, lochs of the, 298 Names, peculiar, in Cullen, 331 Navigation, statistics of, in Banff, 42 Nethermill, burn of, 275 Netbermills, village of, 217 New Keith, village of, 389, 391 New mill in Keith, village of, 389, 391 New mills, village of, 191 Newton, Druidical remains at, 162 Ogilvie of Banff, family of, 86 — of Boyn, family of, 227^Sir Walter of Auch. leven, 159, 320— Sir George, 159— &>ir Walter, of Dunlugas,27, 29, 159, 187— Walter, of Redhyth, 133— John, INDEX. 401 bequest by, 352 — James, bequest by, 352— Robert, of Culvie, 384 Oldbaven, ravine of, 273 Old Keitb, village of, 389, 390 Orcbill boin, 359 Ord, cairn of, 5 Ordiqubill, parisb of, 79 — origin of its name, extent, &c. 79 — its history and owners, 81 — parochial economy of, 82 Ornithology of Banff, the, 8 Orton house, 360 Paintings in Duff house, the, 32 Parish schools, see Education Park bouse. 81 Pateison, Bishop, birth-place of, 253 Pauperism, see Poor Petrifying spring in Mortlach, 103 Pier of Portsoy, destruction of the, in 1839, 191 Pirie, Alexander, bequest by, 51 Plantations and planting, 14, 38, 65, 81, 86, 96, 115, 129, 152, 169, 189, 202, 216. 223, 251, 281, 303, 314, 362 Poddocklaw, stone coffin found at, 31 Poor, management of the, 58, 76, 83, 92, ]0J, 108. 120, 142, 176, 194,199,203, 208,210.212,219,242,268,294,310, 351, 378, 388, 392 Population returns, 35, 69, 81, 88, 98, 106, 116, 134. 164, 188, 197, 201, 206, 210, 212, 216, 230, 255, 286, 301, 329, 367, 386. 389 Porteasy, village of, 260, 261 Port Goidon, village of, 261 — its im- ports and expoits,260 — its harbour,262 Portnockie, village of, 260, 261 Portsoy, burgh of, 191 — quoad sacra pa- rish of, 178 — bay, 179 — ministers of, from 1741, 185— shipping of, 191— chapel. 192 Post-office, Banff, revenue of^ 45 Presholme house, 255 Prisons, Banff, 60— CuUen, 353 Produce, average annual, 71, 100, 107, 174, 190, 207, 237, 258, 304. 339, 374 Quarries, granite, 40, 384 — limestone, t 65 71. 107, 127, 190, 217, 248, 384, 390— sandstone. 248— slate, 248 Rainy, Alexander, improvements by, 234 Rannachie, battle of, 318 Rannes, stone>coffin found at, 254 Rat, the grey, introduction of, into Boindie, 221 Ratbveo, parish of, 245 — origin of its name, extent, &c. 245 — its civil his- toiy, 251 — population, 255 — parochial economy, 260 — general observations on, 269 Ravines, remarkable, in Gamrie, 272 Reading-room, the Banff, 52 Reattie, improvements at, 235-r-Roman sword found at, 225 Red Gill, chalybeate at, 148 Redhyth bursaries, tbe, 184 — point, 179 Reid, William, history of Banff by, 15 Rent, rates of, 33, 70, 88, 99, 107, 117, 136. 166, 189, 210, 212, 233, 258, 288. 304, 334, 368, 389 Richmond, Duke of, 197, 253, .300-* Duchess of, 132 Riggin, remarkable hill of, 96 Rivers, see Hydrography Roads and means of communication, 45, 73. 89. 100. 108.118, 138, 174, 191, 238, 262, 292, 305. 343. 375, 386 Roman camp at Buchragie, 225 — road, remains of, in Boindie, 225 Roman Catholic chapels, ruins of, in Glass, 208 Rope- work at Banff. 44 — in Gamrie, 290 —in Portsoy, 130 Rose Crag, 29 Rose, William, history of Banff by, 15 Roseacre, urns found at, 186 Rothiemay. parish of, 199 — its civil his- tory. 200 — population, 201 — and pa- rochial economy, 202— mansion-house of, 201 Ruddiman, Thomas, the grammarian, birth-place of, 226 Ruthrie, daugh of, 112 — Lynnjof, 114 Sail-work at Banff, 44 St Eunon, parish of, see Forglen St Eunon's chapel, ruins of, 87 St John's well and tree, 65, 68 St Nicholas, hospital of, 366 St Thomas* chapel at Banff, site of, 29 Salmon, see Fisheries Salt stones, reef of the, 221 Sandend bay, 179 — village of, 191 Sandlaw, tumulus at, 161 Sandstone boulder, remarkable, in Or- diquhill, 80 Savings banks, 58, 94, 176, 194, 242, 294, 353, 378, 391 Saw mills in Boindie, 238 — in Gamrie, 290 Scarnose, headland of, 314 School, the commercial, of Banff, 51 Schools, parochial, &c. see Education Scientific institution, the Banff, 52 Scroggie, Rev Alexander, 87 Seaiield, the family of, 320— the first Eari of, 322— the Eari of, 17, 66, 116, 216.227, 253,300, 325, 352, 385— agricultural improvements intro- duced by, 323 — plantations formed by. 38 Seaiield church, 347 Seal, antique, found in Boindie, 225 Seatown of CuUen, the, 342 Sharpe, James, Arcbbishop of St An- drews, birth-place and career of, 21-« Robert, bequest by, 74 402 BANFF8H1RE. Sheep, see Li?e-8tock Shipping belonging to Banff, 42 — to Macduff, 291r-to Portsoy, 191 Sim, Key. Walter, 205 Simpson, Dr, bequest bj* 992 Skeith castle, ruins of, 68 Smith, George, bequests by, 53, 183, 184— Dr, of Whitehill, 284-~Mr, be- quest by, 852 Smuggling, fonner prevalence of, in Deskford, 70 Societies, fnendly, 57, 242, 350— religi- ous and charitable, 74 Solomon's lodge of Gardeners^ the, 57 Soy, loch of, 180 Spey river, the, 113, 125. 356, 358— salmon fisheries on the, 126 — rise of, during the floods of 1829, 113, 359 Spittal mire, the, 30 Springs, mineral, in Alvah, 148 — in Banff, 4— Cullen, 316— Fordyce, 179— Forglen, 184 — Gamrie, 274— Mamoch, 384— Mortlach, 103— Rath- ven,247 Standard loch, the, 274 Stewart, Captain, of Liesmudie, 197 Stewart, Patrick, of Auchluukart, 210 plantations formed by, 363, 364 — ^im- provements effected by, 374 Stewart, Rev. James, bequest by, 239 Stewart, James, of Cults, bequest by, 311 Stone coffins found at Auchmore, 186 — in Boindie, 225— at Coldran, 97— in Inveraven, 132— in Keith, 389— at Mountbleary, 161— at Poddocklaw,31 —at Rannes, 254 Strachan, Dr, Alexander, bequest by, 53 Strathisla, vale of, 388 Stronach, William, Esq., 383 Stuart, Rev. James, bequest by, 184 Stuart, Misses, of Tannachy, 253 Sulphureous spring at Tochieneal, 316 Superstitions, peculiar, in Keith, 389 Sword, Roman, found at Reattie, 225 Tannachy house, 255 Tannery in Keith, 390 Tarlain, mineral spring of, 274 Tarriemount, slate quarries at, 248 Tarwathie, sandstone quarry at, 248 Teenames in Cullen, 331 Tervie water, 126 Teunon, parish of, see Forglen Three kings, stones of the, and traditioa regarding them, 316 Thurot, Commodore, attack thraatened on Banff by, 20 Tile-work at Blackpots, 6, 237 Tillyminnet, scenery of the Glen of, 95 Tillythrowie, ruins of old church at, 97 Tipperty, hill of, 149— cairn at, 162 Tobacco manufactory in Keith, 390 Tochieneal, district of,341 — sulphureous spring at, 316 Tombia, Roman Catholic chapel at, 140 Tomintoul, quoad »acra parish of, 296, 307 — ^its population, 302 — village of, 301, 305 Tommore water, 126 Tomnavin distillery, 198 Tore burn, the, 275 Tore of Troup, the, 281 Tower of Deskford, ruins of the, 68 Towers in Banff, remains of, 28 Town-house of Banff, the, 34 Trees, remarkable, at Anidilly, 363 — in Cullen park, 333— in Deskford, 65 —at the Inch, 383 Tronach castle, ruins of, 254 Troup, headland of, 271 — mansion house and woods of, 281, 285— remarkable caves at, 274^water, 275 Tullich bum, 104 Tumuli, remains of, in Alvah, 161 — near Ban^ 31 — in Forglen, 87 — in Gartly, 97 Tutor of Cromarty, bequest by the, 90 Urns, ancient, found in Alvah, 161 — in Dallachy, 226— in Fordyce, 186-~in Forglen, 87— in Gartly, 97 Wages, rates of, 39, 82, 89, 99, 107, 1 1 7, 189, 304, 311, 368 Wallace castle, ruins of, 84 Wardend, Druidical remains at, 162 Watson, John, bequest by, 351 West, Mr, bequest by, 295 Westerside, cairns at, 254 ^'est head of Portsoy, the, 179 Whale fishing company at Banff, the, 43 Whitehills, village of, 231, 238— peculi- ar manners of its inhabitants, 231 Whyntie, tumulus at, 226 Wilson, Elizabeth, bequest by, 56 Wilson, Hugh Esq., bequest by, 294 Wilson, James, of Granada, bequest by, 54 Wolf of Badenoch, the, 156 Woods, see Plantations Yaiken bank, 98 Zoology, &c., 8, 84, ]04» 115» 128^ 151, 182, 223, 249, 277, 299, 361 PBIKTXD BY JOHK STAmX, OLD ASSEM B1.T CL08X, XDIXBUXOH. ELGIN. CONTENTS. ABERNETHY, . ALVES, BBLLIB, BIRNTE, . DALLAS, DRAINIE, DUFFUS, DUTHIL, DYKE AND MOY, EDENKILLIE, ELGIN, FORRES, KINLOSS, ICNOCKANDO, NEW SPYNIE, RAFFORD, ROTHES, ROTHIEMURCHUS, ST ANDREWS LHANBRYD, SPEYMOUTH, URQUHART, PAGE 9? 101 115 82 178 145 33 l5?3 202 159 I 145 195 60 95 238 228 136 29 51 44 r PARISH OF ELGIN. PRESBYTERY OF ELGIN, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. WILLIAM GORDON, ^ MINISTERS THE REV. ALEXANDER WALKER, ( L — Topography and Natural History. Name. — It appears from the chartulary of Moray that the name of this town and parish prior to the year 1226 was Elgyn or Hel- gyn; and an old iron seal in the town's repositories, has this inscrip- tion, engraven in Saxon characters, in a style supposed to be earlier . than that of the middle of the 16th century, — " S. commune civi- TATis de Helgyn." A Variety of etymologies have been given of the name, but the most probable derives it from Helgy, General of the army of Sigurd, the Norwegian Earl of Orkney, who conquer- ed Caithness, Sutherland, Ross, and Moray» about the beginning of the tenth century.* This general, it is said, built a town in the southern part of Moray, which most probably was Elgin, as it is situated about eight miles south east of Burghead, where the Norwegians had a small fort and harbour for their shipping.f Extent^ Sfc. — The parish of Elgin is inland, and extremely irre- gular in its figure. With the exception of that part of the parish lying westward of the Lossie, and containing the vales of Pluscar- den and Mosstowie, which are separated by a steep hilly ridge, it has a gentle acclivity from the town, en the northern extremity, to the base of the Blackhills, the summit of which is its southern boundary. We are not perhaps far from the truth in estimating the superficial extent at 18 square miles. The town stands on the south bank of the Lossie, on ground sloping a little to the north, and its length is greatly disproportionate to its breadth, the high street being nearly three quarters of a mile long. The bulk of the population have their dwellings in closes or alleys, opening at aright angle to the principal street. In olden times, the river ran by the gardens which generally terminated these alleys to the north ; but a field of fifty or sixty acres of haugh land, partly in the parish of * Vide former Statistical Account, f Rerum Oread. HLs^ a Thorm. Torfeo. ELGIN. A 2 ELGINSHIRE. ■ New Spynie, now intervenes betwixt the river and its former chan- nel. A highly cultivated and well-wooded secondary slope, rising in the form of a crescent from the north bank, greatly beautifies, and at the same time shelters, the town from the North-west, North and North-east, winds. The south side of the town is preferred for building, and many handsome houses and cottages, have been recently erected ; but the effect of the whole is marred by a total want of plan; the Proprietor having left each Feuar at liberty to set down his house according to his own taste or caprice. Meteorology. — No regular register of the barometer and ther- mometer has been hitherto kept in the parish ; but it may be stated generally, that both of these range higher than in any of the northern counties of Scotland.* The prevailing winds are west and south- west, and the climate of the town and district is particularly mild and salubrious. In the year 1830, 93 deaths were recorded, of which one-third were above sixty years of age, viz. 8 from sixty to se- venty; 16 from seventy to eighty; 7 from eighty to ninety; and 2 from ninety to one hundred. There are comparatively few winters when snow lies more than two or three weeks after the commencement of the year, and for some winters past it was scarcely seen for as many days, in succession. The summers are dry and warm. When the clouds, loaded with the vapour of the Atlantic, reach the head of the Moray Frith, they are attrac- ted on the north by the Ross and Sutherland hills, and on the south by the lofty mountain range where the Nairn, the Findhorn, and the Lossie have their sources; and the farmer, in what is called the How of Moray, sees many a cloud pouring its waters to the north and south which would be most grateful and refreshing to his parch- ed fields. The drought of July is most injurious to the spring crops. None of the prevalent diseases can be ascribed to any peculi- arity in the climate. No case of Indian cholera has occurred in the parish. Hydrography. — The landward part of the parish is generally well supplied with springs of excellent water ; but the town is de- pendent on pump-wells, the water of which is more or less impreg- nated with the strata through which it rises, — or on river water, brought in casks drawn by horses or carried by servants, at a great expense of time and labour. * A barometer, thermometer, and rain-gage have been provided at the Elgin In. Rtitution, and placed under the charge of Mr Allan, the accurate and intelligent house- governor, and the observations on each will be given to the public in a tabular form. ELGIN. 8 The Lossie is the only stream of any magnitude in the parish. It either skirts or winds through it, rather a sluggish course of about eight miles, part of which it forms the northern boundary, and falls into the Moray Frith at the shipping port of Lossiemouth, five miles north-east of Elgin. Running through a flat country, it requires to be confined to its channel by artificial banks, which it frequently overflows, damaging the crops on the adjoining fields, and occasioning considerable expense to the proprietors, in repairs. This was particularly the case in the disastrous floods of August 1829, so accurately and graphically described in Sir Thomas D. Lauder's book o/i the subject. Geology and Mineralogy, — On either of these branches of sci- ence there is very little to interest the naturalist. The hilly ridge which separates Pluscarden from Mosstowie is of hard sandstone, not liable to be decomposed by the action of air and water ; and, where the strata are visible, they appear to be nearly parallel to the horizon. About a mile south of Elgin, there is a bed of secondary limestone, lying in the direction of east to west, and which may be traced eastward through the parishes of St Andrews and Ur- quhart to a rock visible at low water in the Moray Frith. This bed is adulterated with sand, clay, and oxide of iron. These impuri- ties give the lime a dark colour, but it is found to answer very well for agricultural purposes, and for mortar to buildings of an infe- rior description. There is a great variety of soil in the parish. Much of the arable land is light and sandy, part is inclined to clay, and part is a rich loam, particularly on the banks of the Lossie. Woods. — About seventy years ago, the lowland district of Mo- ray was one of the barest in Scotland. Scarce a tree was to be seen, except a few ashes in the avenue leading to the mansion of some old family. James the Second Earl of Fife was the first ex* tensive planter, and his example was soon followed by the neigh- bouring land-owners, so that there is now hardly an uncultivated knoll or ridge to be seen which is not covered with wood. The oldest plantation in this parish is at Main, the property of the Earl of Seafield, and it barely reaches to half a century. Many hun- dreds of acres on the estates of the Earl of Fife and George DufT, Esq. of Milton DuflF, which, less than twenty years ago, were naked moor, are now clothed with almost every variety of forest trees. These, and the plantations at Westerton, the property of Colonel Alexander Hay, greatly improve the scenery of Pluscarden, and render the interesting ruins of the priory much more beautiful and 4 ELGINSHIRE. picturesque. On the south side of the parish, Blackhills, the pro- perty of Lachlan Cuming, Esq. is also well wooded. All these plantations are very thriving, and consist of larch and Scotch firs interspersed with oak, beech, ash, &c. where the soil gives any promise of sufficient depth and richness for the nourishment of hard timber. The larch here, as in most other parts of the coun- try, is much infested with the insect peculiar to it; and, at one pe- riod, the planters were much alarmed at the ravages of the Chermes pint, as it has been called, but their fears are subsiding, as experi- ence has shown that it rarely kills, though it no doubt retards the growth of the tree. Bemarkable Beech* — There is a very beautiful and perfectly healthy beech tree in the college garden, the property of George Duff, Esq. of Milton. The stem rises almost perpendicular to the height of 16 feet, and then bursts out into a forest of limbs in every direction, and with every possible variety of curve and angle, form- ing an object truly picturesque. The girth of the bole near the ground is 13 feet, and at 8 feet high it is 12 feet. As nearly as can be ascertained, the fine head rises to 70 feet, and the boughs extend over a circle of 80 feet in diameter. Eight of such trees would cover an imperial acre. II. — Civil History. The Rev. Dr Liachlan Shaw, one of the ministers of Elgin, pub- lished a history of the province of Moray fn the year 1775, and the writer of this has abridged from it much of what is stated re- lative to the antiquities of the town and parish. The book hav- ing become scarce, was reprinted with notes at the Courier print- ing-office Elgin, in 1827, and is now in general circulation. Historical Notices. — Elgin is the county town, — the seat of the presbytery,-— of the law and county courts. About the beginning of the eleventh century it appears to have been a considerable town, with a royal fort. The earliest charter of guildry was granted by Alexander II. in 1234. This charter was subsequently confirm- ed; and various local taxes remitted at different dates by the Earls of Moray, to whom the town was subject as Constables of the King's fort. Grants of land and other concessions by Alexander, Robert, James I. II. and VI. were ratified by Charles I. in a char- ter dated the 8th of October 1633. The gross revenue of the burgh at present is about L. 600 per annum. The town's arms represent St Giles in a pastoral habit, holding a book in the right hand and a pastoral staff in the left, with this motto, " sic itur ad astra." ELGIN. 5 Since the passing of the Reform Bill the limits of the royalty have been greatly extended, and include the populous village of Bishop Mill, in the parish of New Spynie. The number of the enrolled constituency is 277, but at least twenty more have a right to the elective franchise, who have not qualified. Along with CuUen, Banff, Peterhead, Kintore, and Inverury, it sends a Member to Parliament, and is the returning burgh. Within the last fifteen years, two printing-presses have been established in the town, and the proprietors of each attempted a periodical, the one a literary magazine, and the other an agricultural journal, but without sue*' cess. The Elgin Courier, a weekly journal, was first published in 1827, and at one time had a circulation, it is said, of 300, which, had it continued, would have remunerated the enterprising pro- prietor. From untoward circumstances, the journal has recently passed into other hands ; and if the Elgin Courant is conducted with the prudence and ability which the few numbers published indicate, there is no doubt it will succeed. Eminent Men. — Alexander Grey, Esq. surgeon, and Lieutenant- General Anderson, both of the E. I. C. Service, the former a na- tive of Elgin, and the latter a proprietor and occasional residenter, deserve to be mentioned. Dr Grey, by economical habits, amassed a very considerable fortune in the East, the greater part of which he bequeathed for charitable purposes, particularly for building and endowing an hospital for the sick poor of the town and county of Elgin, of which the objects for whom it was intended have been reaping the benefit for more than fifteen years. General Anderson was born of very humble parents in the neigh- bouring parish of Lhanbryd, and entered the Honourable Com- pany's service as a private. By his good conduct and soldierly qualities he attained rank and wealth, and the large fortune which he had honourably acquired he devoted at his death to the educa- tion of the young, and the support of the aged poor of his native county. The Elgin Institution at the east, and Grey's Hospital at the west end of the town are splendid memorials of these phi- lanthropists. Land-aicners. — The principal proprietors in the parish are, the Earls of Fife, Seafield, and Moray, George Duff of Milton Duff, Colonel Alexander Hay of Westerton, Alexander Brander of Springfield, James Stephen, M. D. of the Shanchry, James Stewart King of the Greyfriars, Lachlan Cuming of Blackhills, and Major Taylor of Bilbohall. 6 ELGINSHIRE. Parochial Registers. — The register of baptisms and marriages, extending to seven volumes, commences in the year 1705, and though a few years are viranting, it may be reckoned on the whole as complete a record as is to be found in most parishes. The re- gister of burials begins in 1770, and is confined to those interred in the cathedral burying-ground. This inaccuracy, however, is more apparent than real, as the number of strangers interred in the cathedral ground are probably very nearly the same as the number of persons who die in the parish, and are buried in the neighbour- ing church-yards. These registers are most accurately kept. Antiquities. — There are various remains of religious houses in the parish, the most interesting and magnificent of which are those of the cathedral. This noble edifice was founded by Bishop An- drew Murray in the year 1224, on the site of the church of the Holy Trinity at the north-east extremity of the town, and, as he lived eighteen years, it is probable that if he did not finish, he greatly advanced the building. " The Wolf of Badenoch," having seized upon, and kept violent possession of some of the Bishop of Moray's lands, was excommunicated for this outrage, and in resentment burnt the town, the parish church of St Giles, the MaisonDieu, the cathedral, and the greater part of the college in the year 1390. The cathedral was rebuilt with as little delay as possible, in the form of a Passion or Jerusalem cross, having five towers, two at each end, and one in the centre. In the interior it had what is called the nave for the numerous and splendid processions of Christ- ian worship under papal guidance, — aisles for the reception of the multitude to witness these processions, — and a choir for the actual performance of the sacred rites. On the north side was the chap- ter-house, communicating with the choir by a vaulted vestr}*. These essential appendages of Romish worship necessarily occupied a space of great magnitude, as the following measurement, which is nearly accurate, will shew : Length of cathedral over walls, 264 feet; breadth, 35; traverse, 114; height of centre tower, 198; east- ern turrets, 60 ; western towers without the spires, 84; side wall, 36. The whole was of Gothic architecture, in the style called " decor- ated English;" and although the grotesque is the prevailing cha- racter of the sculpture, many small ornaments, designed with taste, and executed with the utmost delicacy, are yet to be seen. This costly and imposing edifice stood entire in all its grandeur, until the government of the Regent Morton was driven to the miserable shift of passing an act of council on the 14ih February 1568 for ELGIN. 7 Stripping the lead from the cathedral churches of Aberdeen and Elgin, and selling it to pay the troops. This order was too faithful- ly executed, and the cathedral of Moray, thus uncovered, was suffered to decay as a piece of Romish vanity, too expensive to be kept in repair. The wooden work of the great tower gradually de- cayed, and, the foundation giving way, it fell in the year 1711. The remains of this venerable pile are well worth the examination of the traveller. The chapter-house, an exact octagon, 37 feet in diagonal breadth, with a vaulted roof 34 feet high, and supported in the centre by a column 24 feet high, and 9 feet in circumference, on which rest arched pillars from each angle of the sides, is in good preservation. The turrets and walls of the choir on the east end, and the towers on the west, between which was the grand entrance with its deep recess and bivalved door richly ornamented, are still standing at the dimensions already specified; but of the walls of the nave and traverse only a fe^Ffragments remain. A commend- able attention has been paid for some years past by the Barons of Exchequer in Scotland, and the Commissioners of Woods and Forests in England, to the preservation of these interesting relics, and grants of money have been judiciously expended in clearing away the great mass of rubbish in the choir and nave, by which the steps to the altar and the bases of the pillars that supported the arches of the aisles have been uncovered, so that a tolerably accu- rate idea may now be formed of the extent of the several parts of the building. Much praise is due to the present keeper * for the zeal and diligence with which he has laboured in bringing to light adjuncts of the fabric, particularly the steps leading to the grand entrance, and a porch to the southmost aisle, of which there was no record. The College was an appendage of the Cathedral, and contained not only the church and grave yard, but also the bishop's house, and the manses and gardens of the twenty-two canons« It was inclosed with a strong stone wall 4 yards high and 900 yards in circuit, and had four gates. The Pans Port or eastern gateway , with part of the inclosing wall, is still standing, and appears to have had a portcullis, iron gate, and porter's lodge. A Convent of Grey Friars was settled in Elgin by Alexander II. and the ruins of their church are to be seen on the south side of the town. mh^ site o{ i\\G preceptory o{ Maison Dieu may be traced in the * John Shanks. 8 ELGINSHIRE. middle of an arable field at the east end of the town, but no part of the buildings remain. The ruins of the Abbey of Pluscarden are situated in a vale of the same name, at the foot of a steep bridge fronting the south, aboiit six miles westward of Elgin* A lofty stone wall, of which a considerable part is standing, inclosed several acres of ground. The church, in the form of a cross, stood almost in the centre, with the prior's house and the cells of the monks adjoining. The Dormitory, which has recently been roofed in, and. the walls and windows repaired in (he same style as the original build- ing, was on the second floor, at the south east end of the church, and under it was an arched Kitchen, The latter has been fit- ted up as a place of public worship for the inhabitants of the vale, and a clergyman on the Royal Bounty resides near, and regularly officiates. The inclosure also contained the gardens, the burial- ground, and the mill for grinding^he monks' grain. Every atten- tion is paid by the Earl of Fife, the proprietor, to preserve these relics from farther decay, and the shrubberies and walks near the abbey, and the plantations adjacent, add greatly to their beauty and interest ForL — Tliere are some remains of a fort on a small green hill, now called the Lady-hill, at the west end of the town, but they are not sufficient to show the form or extent of the buildings. The walls were built of stone and run lime, and, as the length of the plain area on the top of the hill is nearly twice the breadth, the fort was probably an oblong quadrangle. It no doubt had its towers, draw-well, guarded entrance, and fosse, as traces of some of these . are still to be seen. The Earls of Moray acted as constables, and had jurisdiction within certain bounds till the middle of the fifteenth century ; they had for salary the customs of the town, the assize of ale, and some lands. The property of the hill descended to their successors, and belongs to the present Earl. This little hill com- mands a most extensive and delightful view of the frith and the surrounding country for many miles. New Buildings. — The Elgin Institution,* for the support of old age and the education of youth, stands on the south side of the en- trance to the town from the east, and is a quadrangular building of two stories, surmounted with a circular tower and dome. The principal front and entrance is to the north, having the two sides of the quadrangle projecting, and, in the centre a portico of two beautiful Ionic columns with entablature rising to the height of ELGIN. 9 the building, on which is placed a group of three figures in sculp- ture, emblematic of the founder and the objects of the charity. The west side has also its portico of six plain Doric columns and entablature rising to the base of the windows of the second story. The interior contains most convenient and comfortable accommo- dation for sixty children, ten aged and indigent persons, and for the necessary establishment of house-governor, matron, teachers, and servants. The grand entrance leads through a narrow corridor di- rectly into the chapel, having an arched roof full 30 feet high, and communicating by arched passages with both sides of the building. The school rooms, the eating halls, and dormitories of the children occupy the whole eastern side ; the apartments of the aged are on the ground floor of the western side, and over these the sick- rooms for the children, and the parlours and bed-rooms of the house-governor and matron. The kitchen, wash-house, laundry, &c. are to the south ; and connected with these, but having a separate entry, are the free school, of sufficient extent for 230 scholars, and the apartments for a male and female teacher. The porter's lodge, in the form of an octagon with a pyramidal roof, is on the west side. The garden, play-grounds, shrubbery, and stance of the buildings, measure about 3 Scotch acres, and are enclosed with a stone wall and iron railing. The building is reckoned very chaste, and highly creditable to the talents of Archibald Simpson, Esq. architect, Aberdeen, who designed it. It is constructed of beau- tiful freestone, from the hill of Quarrywood, and, with the furnish- ings, cost nearly L. 12,000. It was opened on the 5th June 1833. Church. — The new church, on the site of the old church of St Giles, is in the High Street, nearly in the centre of the town, and is built of the same materials as the Institution, and after a plan by the same artist. This is a very elegant structure, not surpassed by any in the north of Scotland. The length over walls is 96 feet, and breadth 60^, side walls 36, and height of ceiling 31. On the east end there is a projecting square tower with clock and bells, surmounted by what is commonly called a lantern, consist- ing of one massive column in the centre, and a circular colonnade^ supporting a tholus or cupola richly ornamented, the whole rising to the height of 112 feet. The access for the congregation is by three doors on the west end, under a spacious portico of six Gre- cian Doric columns, projecting 7 feet 4 inches from the building and extending 53^ feet in breadth. The entablature rises to a sufficient height to admit of the portico being roofed uniformly 10 ELGINSHIRE. with the church. An unseemly court-house and jail, a few yards to the westward of the church, prevent this fine portico from be- ing seen to advantage, but an act was passed last Session of Par- liament for their removal, so that this deformity to the church and to the street will soon be corrected. The vestry on the ground story of the tower communicates directly with the pulpit, which is placed about ten feet from the wall, by a small stair, and there is a stove for heating the church. The interior arrangements of gal- leries and pews are most convenient, and a beautiful simplicity, well suited to the forms of Presbyterian worship, characterises the whole. It was opened for public worship in October 1828 ; and, includ- ing communion plate and a fund of L. 300 for repairs, cost the pro- prietors L. 8300. Gretas Hospital, — This also is a building of two stories, in the Grecian style of architecture, having on the front, which is to the east, a fine projecting portico of four Roman Doric columns, and entablature, rising to the same height as the walls of the building, and the centre crowned with a dome, which has been found fault with as too heavy. It stands on a rising ground at the west end of the town, and coming into view almost immediately after passing the church, it forms a very striking and beautiful termination to the High Street. A small lunatic asylum for paupers, containing ten cells and the necessary accommodation for keepers and servants, was built, 1834, by a voluntary assessment on the land-owners, amounting to L. 850. It is situated on the grounds of the hospi- tal to the westward. Some delay in opening it has been occasion- ed by the want of funds to provide furniture, and to erect appen- dages to the building absolutely necessary, though not included in the original plan and estimate. The Trinity Lodge Assembly Booms, spacious and elegantly furnished ; Sir Archibald Dunbar's town house ; the Episcopal Chapel ; the House of Westerton, are all of recent erection, but the limits of this report do not admit of their being fully described. III. — Population. If the returns of the population of the town and parish prior to the Government census be correct, it has fluctuated very consider- ably. In 1750, according to Dr Webster, the amount was - • 6306 1793 - Rev. John Grant - - 4534 1801 Government census 4345 1811 Do. 4602 1821 Do. 5308 1831 Do. males 2824, females 3306, 6130 ELGIN. 11 The increase since 1801 has been mostly in the town popula- tion, and probably may be thus accounted for. The work people, employed in a manufactory of woollen cloth, established since that time in the immediate vicinity of Elgin, though not in the parish, have their residence in the town* The extensive public and pri- vate buildings carried on, quarrying, road-making, and other job work, have induced many labourers to settle from different parts of the country, and not a few respectable families have been attracted by the acknowledged mildness of the climate and the excellence of the seminaries for male and female education. The increase on the landward population since 1793 has only been 23. Number of population residing in town, - - 4498 in the country, • - 1637 The yearly average of births for last seven years,* • - - 113 of deaths, - - - 75 of marriages, - .- 45 Proprietors of land of the yearly value of L. 50 and upwards, - 22 Number of families in the parish, - - 1418 chiefly employed in agriculture, - - 265 * in trade, manufacture, or handicraft^ 735 Number of inhabited houses, - - - 1116 uninhabited houses, - - - 32 Language, — The dialect of the lowlands of Moray has no dis- tinguishing peculiarity, except an occasional substitution of w for V, as weal Tor veal, wery for very. A more extended education and better qualified instructors have of late generally improved the language of the operative classes. Habits and Character. — In the cottages of the small farmer and labourer, and in the apartments of the journeyman artisan, there is a marked improvement in cleanliness and comfort, and the same is observable in their dress and mode of living. It may be truly said that the people enjoy in a reasonable degree the comforts and advantages of society. In so numerous a population there is no doubt considerable diversity of character, but it may be stated ge- nerally that they are intelligent and industrious, decent in deport- ment, and attentive to their social and religious duties. Offences against the excise laws are become extremely rare ; but convictions for poaching are by no means uncommon. During the last three years, there have been 21 illegitimate births in the parish. IV. — Industry. The trade carried on in Elgin is mostly confined to retail. The shopkeepers and artisans supjply the inhabitants of the town and * With all the care taken to make the record accurate, it is probable that there were a few more births than those registered ; and it has been already stated that the burials recorded are those only that take place in the cathedral burying-ground. 12 ELGINSHIRE. the agricultural population of the surrounding district, with the necessaries, and such of the luxuries of life as their respective cir- cumstances enable them to reach. The following statement exhibits the branches of industry in which the male population of the parish above twenty years of age are em- ployed. 1. Farmers, cottars, and servants employed in agriculture, 365; 2, Master manufacturers, 6; 3. Masters and workmen in retail trade and handicraft, 703; 4. Capitalists, bankers, professional, and educated men, 113 ; 5. Labourers, employed by the classes, Nos. 2, Sf and 4, 151 ; 6. Retired tradesmen, superannuated labourers, and males diseased in body or mind, not included above, 77 ; Taxed male household servants under twenty years of age, 12 ; above twenty years of age, 8 ; female servants, 480. Agriculture. — The plans and measurements of the large estates in the parish are generally of an old date, and do not give an ac- curate account of their contents of waste and arable land ; and it is equally difficult to get any correct knowledge of the extent of the small properties around the town. In stating the number of the imperial acres in the parish cultivated or occasionally in til- lage, and also what is uncultivated and under wood, it must be un- derstood that only an approximation to the truth is given, from the best information that could be obtained. Imperial acres cultivated or occasionally in tillage, 7000 remaining waste ot in pasture* - 3000 under wood* .... loQO There is a very considerable extent of waste land, particularly on the south side of the parish, which might be profitably cultivat- ed, if sufficient encouragement were given by the land-owners, as lime works most beneficially on the new soil, and raises heavy crops of grain and grass. A common between the estates of the Earl of Fife and Mr Cuming of Blackhills has been recently divided, and though the westmost and most extensive part of it is almost inaccessible to wheel carriages, and no allowance given for build- ing, or for the land improved, beyond a lease of scarcely the ordi- nary endurance at a trifle of rent per acre, yet it is astonishing to see with what spirit the industrious settlers are bringing large tracts into culture. It is the general opinion that a sum of money laid out in making roads, in a very moderate allowance per acre for im- provements, and in planting, would be amply repaid to the proprie- tor, and make almost the whole of this waste a cultivated and or* namental field. There is no natural wood in the parish, and it has been already mentioned, that larch and Scotch firs preponderate ELGIN. 13 in the plantations, but not to the exclusion of hard timber. All the plantations are pruned and thinned with great care and regu- larity, and the thinnings sold for paling, roofing, and other pur- poses of husbandry. Sent of Land. — In 1828, the rental of land in the parish was L. 8520, and if the foregoing estimate of what is arable be correct, it will make the average annual rent L. 1, 4s. per imperial acre, or about L. 1, 10s. per Scotch acre. The best haugh land is let from L. 1, 12s. to L.2, and the light lands in the vicinity of the town, from L. 2, 8s. to L. 2, 16s. per imperial acre. JSafe of Wages. — Farm-servants generally live in the farmers' houses, and the males receive annually from L. 9 to L. 10, and the females from L. 4 to L. 5, of wages besides food. Male la- bourers engaged by the day get from 9s. to 9s. 6d. per week, and women for field labour from 3s. to 4s. per week. Male labourers prefer piece-work when practicable, and if they earn more in this way it is by longer and harder toil. A carpenter's wages per day are from 2s. to 2s. 4d. and a mason's from 2s. to 2s. 6d. ; with theut- most diligence weavers can hardly reach 9s. per week. Husbandry. — Thirty-five years ago the breeds of horses and cat- tle in the parish and district was of a very inferior description, but since that time much attention has been paid to their improvement. The best breeds of horses from the southern counties have been introduced ; and it may now be asserted that more compact, active, strong, horses are seldom to be met with than those in the posses- sion of the Morayshire farmer. The most prevalent breed of cat- tle is a black-coloured horned breed, resembling the Aberdeen- shire, though not so large, and, with much care and expense by the breeder, it has attained great symmetry and beauty as well as size. Some enterprising farmers have begim to cross this breed with the short-homed ; but the experiment has not been made for a length of time sufiicient to determine whether the plan ought to be generally pursued. The few sheep fed with the farmer's cattle do not require to be noticed, but pigs of every variety of breed are very abundant in every farm-yard, and there are few of the poorest cottagers without one. On most of the farms in the parish the ro- tation of crops consists of a five-shift course, in which white and green crops, including two years' grass, alternately succeed each other; and the agricultural implements are of the most approved construction. In the cultivation of green crops, there has been a wonderful alteration within a few years, from the application of 14 ELGINSHIRE. bone manure. It is now used to a certain extent by almost every farmer ; and Mr Lawson of Old Mills has erected, near Elgin, a mill for its manufacture. From fifteen to twenty bushels per im- perial acre, without mixture, will produce a heavy crop of turnips; but, for a year or two past, a more economical mode of applying^ bones for raising this valuable esculent has been adopted, namely, by dibbling, and in this way half the quantity, or even less, will raise a very fair crop. In order to render the saving plan bene- ficial to the soil, the whole crop thus raised ought to be consumed on the ground by sheep, — a practice to which, one great ob- stacle at present is the want of a market for the fatted stock, — an obstacle which steam conveyance, it is hoped, will soon re- move. Wheat, oats, and barley, are cultivated in considerable va- riety in the parish. About four years ago the Hopetoun oai was first tried by that intelligent and zealous agriculturist, Mr Isaac Forsyth of Haughland. This variety does not suit light land, but it is now much used on rich soils, and the produce in straw and corn exceeds considerably that of any other oat formerly cultivat- ed. The Chevalier barley has been recently introduced, and from its superior quality is likely to be extensively raised. The use of lime has been general for twelve years. On light land it is applied at the rate of 120 to 140 bushels, and on strong land at the rate of 200 bushels, or even more per imperial acre. On very light sandy soil, though the effects are visible in the green crops and grass, it is doubtful whether it will pay, but along the margin of the Blackhills and in Pluscarden it operates so advantageously that one crop or two will repay the expense. The farm-buildings gene- rally belong to the tenant The house of the small farmer con- sists of one story, and is thatched with straw, — that of the more extensive farmer has two stories, is built of sandstone, and slated. The farm of Main, and two or three small Properties in the vici- nity of the town, are enclosed and subdivided with thorn hedges, but this species offence is too slow of growth, and too liable to acci* dent, and requires too much care and attention to be adopted by the farmer without encouragement from the heritor, which has not hitherto been given. The fields around the Abbey of Pluscarden have been enclosed and subdivided by the proprietor with stone dikes ; and similar enclosures, made at the expense of the tenant, are partially to be met with on that side of the parish ; but Mr Lawson's farm of Old Mills, near the town, is the only one com- pletely enclosed with this substantial and durable fence. Con- d ELGIN. 15 venient and profitable as such enclosures are to the farmer, they are too expensive to become general, unless the land-owners were to defray the cost of building, exacting a moderate per centage from the tenantry. Extensive improvements have recently been made by draining in the vales of Pluscarden and Mosstowie, mostly at the expense of the proprietors. Much waste land in the parish has been reclaimed by frequent ploughing, harrowing, and liming, — at the tenant's expense generally, though in a few instances an allow- ance of L. 5 per Scotch acre has been given by the proprietor when the land is brought into proper tillage and limed, and for which the tenant pays five per cent during the remaining years of his lease. The proprietor of Westerton trenched and limed a large moor some years ago at an expense of L. 12 per Scotch arce, which is now paying well. A small sum of money laid out in making roads, and an allowance of L. 5 per acre for tillage and liming, would soon bring some hundreds of acres of waste land under crop, which, even in these times of agricultural distress, would pay both landlord and tenant Leases in general are of nineteen years endurance. On some of the large properties the farms are valued by an experien- ced person before being let ; on others they are let to the highest bidder. Manufactures. — There are eight grain mills in the parish, — a carding-mill for wool, and a saw-mill for timber. Thrashing-mills driven by horses or by water are in general use. A tannery and brewery in the town, and two* distilleries in the landward part of the parish, are in active operation. The hands employed in any of these works are not numerous, and no injurious effects on the health or morals of the persons engaged in them have been obser- ved. Morayshire Farmers' Club. — This club was instituted in 1799, and is now the oldest local agricultural Association in Scotland. The original members were most happy in their selection of Mr Isaac Forsyth as secretary, who engaged in the cause with all his heart, and, for more than a quarter of a century, devoted the ener- gies of an active and intelligent mind to the attainment of the im- portant and patriotic objects for which the Society was established. The attention and funds of the club were first applied to the in- troduction of new implements of husbandry — to the excitement of emulation among ploughmen, by awarding premiums after public competition to the most skilful, and to the improvement of the breed of horses by the purchase of one of high character and pedi- 16 ELGINSHIRE. gree. The advantages of the Association became every year more and more apparent, and it soon enrolled as members, not only the whole body of respectable farmers in the district, but also all the noblemen and gentlemen connected with the county. Annual cattle shows were then established, — premiums of large amount were given for horses from the southern districts, to serve for the season in the county, — for the different kinds of stock brought into competition, — ^for various branches of tillage and crops, — for seed grain, grasses, &c These premiums are. not confined to the mem- bers of the club, but, with a liberality which has characterized all their proceedings, are open to every class of farmers in the county ; and certainly it is not one of the least gratifying effects of the so- ciety's exertions, that a considerable proportion of prizes for the best stock is annually carried off by the small farmers who are not members. The club has not been inattentive to another very im- portant object, namely, to the supply of the means of information to the members on those subjects with which it nearly concerns them to be acquainted. At an early period of the association, a sum of money was annually set apart from the funds, for the esta- blishment of' an agricultural library, which now contains a valuable collection of the best books on every branch of rural economy, and is yearly increased by every useful publication on agriculture, as soon as it comes from the press. Since its commencement, the individual members of the club have contributed L. 2250 to its funds; and if the implements in use, the state of tillage, and the breed of stock to be seen even on small farms, be compared with what they were thirty years ago, the mighty alteration must be as- cribed, in no small degree, to the judicious expenditure of this large sum, and to the beneficial influence exerted by the society^ in promoting the agricultural improvements of the district. The club still exists in undiminished vigour and usefulness. Society for promoting Industry among the most necessitous Poor. — The object of this Society is sufficiently indicated by its name. There is in the town a number of indigent but industrious females, whom the introduction of steam manufacture has deprived of the means by which they formerly earned a subsistence. A small fund is provided by subscriptions and donations among the members and friends of the society, to purchase the materials of spinning, knitting, and sewing, which are given out to these females to be wrought up according to instructions, and for which they receive the ordinary rate of wages. The manufactured articles are then ELGIN. 17 sold, and the money drawn applied to the purchase of more raw material. There are upwards of seventy aged and infirm females on the books of the society, who are either occasionally or con- stantly employed. They express their gratitude for the aid which keeps them from the degradation of begging, and seem very sen- sible how much the relief which their own industry thus procures for them, is superior in relish and respectability to the ordinary gratuity. A committee of ladies attend at the sale-room on a stat- ed day every week, to give out and take in work, and it is chiefly owing to their benevolent and active services, that the society is flourishing in the sixth year of its existence. Beyond the inciden- tal expenses, the annual loss upon the manufactured articles is a mere trifle. Produce, — The average amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Grain, - - L. 14485 Potatoes and turnips, - 3603 Hay, - - 292 Pasture, - - 2920 L. 21,300 The thinnings of plantations may probably amount to L. 100 per annum. V. — Parochial Economy. Tovm. — There are no villages in the parish, and Elgin is the only town. It has been already stated that it is not a manufactur- ing place, and that the population are capitalists, professional men, retailers, artisans, and labourers. It has ten fairs annually for the sale of cattle, horses, &c. and a weekly market on Friday for grain, poultry, butter, and other articles of farm and garden produce. The small farmer generally sells his grain to the corn-factor, and the large farmer disposes of his barley to the brewer or distiller, or sends it with his wheat and oats to the Leith, London, and Liver- pool markets. Some years ago a considerable traffick in wheaten flower was carried on with Aberdeen and some of the provincial towns of that and the neighbouring county of Banff, but of late this trade has rather declined. There is also a class in the town called meal-mongers, who purchase small quantities of oats, which they manufacture, and retail to the trades-people and labourers* Police. — The magistrates have the superintendence of the police. They appoint a fiscal for the burgh, and occasionally hold courts for determining trifling debts and disputes concerning burgage pro- perty, and for the trial of petty offences committed within the ELGIN. B 18 ELGINSHIRE. royalty. Excise and small debt courts are held by the Justices of the Peace, but since the Sheriff small-debt court came into ope- ration, there is little business before the latter. About five years ago, the chief magistrate, Mr Lawson Junior, and some other pub- lic-spirited individuals, laid before the citizens a proposal for lights ing the streets with gas, providing they would voluntarily' assess themselves for a certain number of years, to defray the expense over L. 30, granted annually for this purpose by the magistrates, out of the common good. The proposal was almost unanimously acceded to, — a gas company was formed, — a gas manufactory built, and the subsequent winter the streets and shops, and many private houses, were lighted with gas. The matter continued on this footing till the passing of the new Scotch Burgh Police Bill, when the inhabitants adopted the lighting clause, and assessed themselves in the necessary sum, but by a majority negatived the other clauses. The principal streets had been previously causewayed, and had paved foot- paths, and the town-council being chosen commissioners of po- lice, were appointed to enforce the provisions of the statute against the proprietors as to lighting, and the repairs of the pavements. No funds for watching and cleaning being placed at the disposal of the commissioners, they are not perhaps to be blamed that there is no nightly patrol for the protection of property, and that the streets are cleared of filth in a very imperfect and slovenly manner. Means of Communication, — The inland means of communication in the town and parish are very ample. There is a post-office in the town and turnpike roads diverging in every direction. The great north road passes through the town, — another turnpike road strikes directly south, and leads to Rothes and the banks of the Spey, and another north to the sea-port of Lossiemouth. The commutation roads to Pluscarden, Mosstowie, and Blackhills, are in good repair. The Lossie is crossed by one iron and three stone arches, the most distant not more than a mile from the town. The mail-coach passes and repasses every day, and a letter despatched from London through the post^ffice reaches Elgin about three o'clock p. M. of the third day. There are daily mail-gigs to Los- siemouth and Burghead. A stage-coach starts for Inverness every lawful day at seven o'clock a. m. and returns at nine o'clock p. m. Another for Banff at half-past five o'clock a. m. where it commu- nicates with a coach from Aberdeen, and returns at eight o'clock p. m. The Defiance coach from Edinburgh to Inverness passes and re- passes through the town in the middle of every lawful day. There ELGIN. 19 are regular carriers to Aberdeen, Banff, and Inverness, and to all the adjacent villages. On the other hand sea-Ccorriage is both te- dious and expensive. The retailers in Elgin generally supply themselves with goods from the London market, which are carried in the smacks trading to Inverness, and landed at Burghead, if the weather permit. This subjects the dealer to an expense of nine miles o{ land carriage in addition to the freight, besides much delay occasioned by the trade only affording employment for a few such vessels. In consequence, light 'goods are frequently ordered to be sent by the steam-vessels to Aberdeen and forwarded by the carriers. The supply of coals for the town and neighbourhood is imported at Lossiemouth, and a good deal of grain is exported, but there is so little water in the harbour, that loaded vessels of small tonnage can only come in or go out at stream tides. The incon- venience and loss to the community arising from the want of a good and central harbour, have led to the formation of a Joint Stock company for erecting one at Stotfield point, a few hundred yards to the northward of the harbour of Lossiemouth. This spot hav- ing been surveyed and approved of by an eminent engineer, and a plan given, shares to a large amount were speedily disposed of; an application was made to Parliament and a bill passed last session, vesting the company with the requisite powers of management, levy- ing shore dues, &c. and every thing is ready for proceeding with the work as soon as the season admits. If this undertaking is suc- cessful, of which there is the most sanguine hope, it will be of im- mense advantage to the trading and agricultural interests of the town and district. A direct communication with London and other markets for farm-stock and grain by steam would be imme- diately opened, and merchant goods and coals imported at much less expense of carriage, and with great regularity and expedition. The writer has been led to notice this projected improvement, though in another parish, not only on account of its importance to Elgin, but because the present harbour and village are the pro- perty of the town, and because the magistrates are shareholders in the new harbour to the extent of one-fourth of the sum estimated as sufficient to complete it. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church, in the centre of the town, is about eight miles distant from the westmost point of the parish, and nearly five from the south-east extremity. As three- fourths of the population reside in the town it could not be more conveniently situated. A missionary on the Royal Bounty being 20 ELGINSHIRE. placed in Pluscarden, very few of the country people have to travel more than three or four miles at most to churchy and even some of these are still nearer to the neighbouring parish churches. The church was built in I8289 and can conveniently contain 1800 per- sons. Thirty-six free sittings are set apart for the poor. Four silver communion cups, the gifts of pious ihdividuals, are the only bene- factions on record. There is no manse, but in lieu of it, the heri- tors paying stipend agreed some years ago to pay the senior mi- nister L. 50 per annum during his incumbency, or until they should build a manse. Each clergyman has a glebe of about four acres, which is presently rented at L. 18. The stipend, as modified in 1808, is a fraction under fifteen chalders of barley to each minister, and L. 5 for communion elements. As the sacrament of the Lord's Supper is dispensed twice a-year, it would require nearly double the allowance to defray the expense. It has been already observed, that there is a missionary in Pluscarden, supported by the Royal Bounty, by the interest of some legacies, and by -the heritors and people, conformable to the regulations of the commission for ma- naging his Majesty's gift This mission has been established up- wards of a century, and supplies the ordinances of the gospel and spiritual instruction to a population of about 600 souls, in the most remote district of the parish. The sectarian places of public worship in the town are nume- rous, and are frequented by persons from every parish in the pres- bytery of »El^n. There are two chapels connected with the United Associate Synod of the Secession church ; one with the Associate Synod of Original Seceders, an Independent chapel in connection with the Congregational Union of Scotland, an Episcopal, and a Catholic chapel, — the Catholic bishop residing in Enzie, Banff- shire. The ministers of these chapels are paid by their congrega- tions in seat rents and collections ; and as a large proportion of the people attending the chapels of the Secession church are of the poorer classes, their stipends must be very small. Dissent does not appear to be on the increase, and divine service at the Establish- ed church is generally well attended by at least three-fourths of the respectable families of the town and parish. The number of com- municants is about 800. Religious Societies, — Bible and missionary societies have been established in the parish for many years ; and the following is a pro- bable average of their annual contributions ; British and Foreign Bible Society, L. 20 ; Edinburgh Bible Society, L. 30 ; Mission- ELGIN. 21 ary Society, L. 24. Collections are also made periodically in the Established Church in aid of the General Assembly's Schools, the Indian Mission, and the funds of the Hibernian schools. The ave- rage amount of such collections yearly may be about L. 20. Education. — There are thirteen schools in the parish, of which ten are in the town. The Elgin Academy is partly endowed, and . partly supported from the town's funds, and the three schools of which it consists, though not perhaps technically, are in fact paro- chial schools, and most efficiently answer the same purpose. The trustees of the Dick bequest to the parochial schoolmasters of the counties of Moray, Banff, and Aberdeen, have not as yet admitted the teachers of the academy to any share of the fund under their management, but it is hoped, they will give the benefit of any am- biguity in the wording of the benevolent donor's settlements, to a seminary where education is conducted after the "jmost approved method, with exemplary zeal and distinguished success. The school of industry and the free school of the Elgin institution are both endowed; four others in the town, two of which are for the edu- cation of young ladies, are unendowed ; and one, an infant school, recently established, is supported by individual subscriptions and fees ; — the other three in the landward part of the parish, are also, unendowed. The branches taught in the academy, are English reading and writing, English grammar and composition, arithmetic, geography, practical mathematics, French, Latin, and Greek. A course of lectures on natural philosophy is occasionally delivered, and illustrated by a neat experimental apparatus, partly public, and partly the property of the mathematical teacher. In the ladies' schools are taught, English reading and grammar, and composition, writing, arithmetic, sewing, geography, drawing, music, French and Italian. The youths attending the other schools are instructed in the ordinary branches of education. The Bible is read, and the Shorter Catechism committed to memory in all the schools. The salaries of the English and mathematical teachers of the academy are L. 45 each ; that of the classical teacher is L. 50. They have no house or allowance for one, and the English and classical teachers are obliged by agreement with the magistrates to keep and pay assistants. The fees are, for English reading per quarter, 2s. ; reading and writing, 3s. ; English grammar, 2s. 6d. ; Latin, 7s. 6d. ; elocution, mathematics, French, and Greek, 10s. 6d. ; arithmetic, 4s, ; a course of geography, L. 1, Is., and three sets of book-keeping L. 1,1s. The interest of L. 200 was bequeath- 22 ELGINSHIRE. ed by the late James M^ Andrew Esq. of Elgin, to be given an* naally in prizes to the three boys in the Latin school who have made the greatest progress in the preceding year. The male and female teachers of the free school of the Elgin institution have a joint salary of L. 75. No fees are exacted, and orphans and the children of poor widows receive books. The house-governor and teacher of the school of industry has L. 55 per annum, and his maintenance and lodging in the institution. The teacher of the infant school has L. 25, the fees, and a house. The trades' school has a salary attached of L. 5 from the town^s funds. The ladies' schools and one chance school depend wholly on fees. The school- masters in the landward part of the parish have each a small sa- lary and a house from the heritor on whose property the school is situated, and some advantages from the tenantry of the district, and, including fees, their emolument may fluctuate from L. 25 to L.dO per annum each. There are probably none of the young betwixt six and fifteen years of age of sound mind who cannot read or write ; and the writer has not met with or heard of any person above the age of fifteen who cannot read^ though there are no doubt a good many aged persons, particularly females, who cannot write. There are few parishes in Scotland better supplied with the means of edu- cation, and there does not appear to be any backwardness on the part of parents to give the advantages of it to their families. It is producing in a greater or less degree its usual beneficial effects on the moral habits and general welfare of the people. Literature. — A circulating library has been long established in the town, and contains an extensive and valuable collection of his- tory, travels, poetry, &c. carefully selected by the proprietor, and to which he is adding the best works for general readers as they are published. A small collection of books, selected by the teach- ers, has been provided for the use of the students attending the aca- demy. A literary association, consisting of twenty members, was institu- ted in 1818 in the town. The object of this association was to procure at a moderate expense four or five of the best periodicals, ancl such books as the members generally could not readily find access to. The periodicals and books are circulated according to rule among the members, and are afterwards bound and placed in a library. The institution has most satisfactorily answered its purpose, and is going on prosperously. A small annual subscrip- tion has already supplied a library of nearly 700 volumes. The ELGIN. 23 members of the association about two years ago, connected with it a reading-room, supplied with a sufficient number of daily London and provincial newspapers, to which many of the most respectable gentlemen of the town have become subscribers ; but the reading- room is conducted without any interference with the funds or pro- perty of the original establishment. The Elgin Courant, a weekly newspaper, is published in the town on Friday morning. Ahns-Hauses. — James VL by royal charter, dated the last day of February 1620, granted to the provost, bailies, councillors, and community of the burgh of Elgin and their successors, the hospice or preceptory of Maison Dieu, founded for the aliment and support of certain poor and needy persons, with the right of patron- age of the same, together with all the revenue belonging to the said hospice, for the support of certain poor and needy persons, accord- ing to the original establishment thereof, to maintain and support a teacher of music and other liberal arts, and to answer and promote the affairsof the burgh, because the common revenue was barely suffi- cient. There are lands also of considerable extent conveyed by the grant for the same purposes ; but there is no evidence that they ever were in the possession of the magistrates, and probably the charter gave right only to the casualties of these lands, payable at the time to the hospital of Maison Dieu, the dominium utile being in the hands of lay impropriators. By virtue of this charter a Beid- house has been erected within the burgh, to contain four Beidmen having garden ground attached, and as far back as can be ascertain- ed these four paupers have each received annually four bolls of bar- ley, or about three imperial quarters, out of the rents of the pre- ceptory lands. Hoipitah^ Dispensaries^ and Lunatic Asylums. — Grey's Hospi- tal for the sick poor of the town and county of Elgin, was opened for the reception of patients in 1819. It was founded by Dr Alex- ander Grey of Calcutta, and the funds which he destined to its ^support are adequate to the expenditure. The average number of sick admitted to the hospital during a year is about 250, and the average number in it at one time is 26. Dr Dougal, a medical practitioner in Elgin, willed L. 15 per annum for the purchase of medicines, to be dispensed to the poor. This sum was hand- ed over to the Trustees of Grey's Hospital by those to whom it had been left in trust, and medicines and advice are now given at the hospital to more than 300 out-patients annually. A pau- per lunatic asylum, near the hospital, is just completed, and 24 ELGINSHIRE. will be supported from the interest of money subscribed, and a small board from the parishes who send the lunatics. It contains ten cells, and the benefit of it is confined to the insane poor with- in the county. Elgin Institution far the support of old age and the Education of Youth. — This charity was founded and endowed by General An* derson, and consists of three branches. 1^, An hospital for the support and maintenance of indigent men and women, not under fifty-five years of age, of decent, godly, and respectable character ; persons answering this description from the burgh of Elgin to be preferred, and failing applications from those in the town, then from those in the parish, and failing both, thenhova any other part of the county. Five males and five females from the town are at present enjoying as inmates the comforts of the charity. 2dy A school of industry for the support, maintenance, clothing, and edu- cation of male and female children of the labouring class of socie- ty whose parents are unable to maintain and educate them, and for placing and putting out the said children, when fit to be so, as ap- prentices to some trade or occupation, or employing them in such a manner as may enable them to earn a livelihood by their lawful industry, and make them useful members of society. Twenty-two boys and eighteen girls' from every parish of the county, in'propor- tion to the population, are reaping the benefits of the institution. On the death of two annuitants this branch will probably include twenty additional children. Sc?, An establishment of a master and mistress, properly qualified to conduct a free school for the educa- tion only of such male and female children whose parents may be in narrow circumstances, but still able to maintain and clothe their children. Of this class 230 children are receiving in the free school a gratis education suited to their station. Friendly Societies. — The six incorporated trades are in one re- spect of the nature of friendly societies. From yearly assessments on the brethren of their respective crafts, they have a fund under the management of each corporation, which they distribute, in whole or in part, among their poor and decayed members and widows. Guildry Charitable Fund. — This fund was established in 1714, and the members are all merchant guild-brethren. It arises from quarter pennies and admission fees of entrants. By good manage- ment and judicious investments in lands, of a part of their income always reserved, it has rapidly increased, and they now divide L. 250 annually among the widows, children, and decayed members, still ELGIN. 25 retaining every year a considerable sum, which is added to their sink- ing-fund. Cumming^s Beidmen. — William Gumming of Auchray, by deed of mortification, 12th October 1693, conveyed money and lands for the support of four poor, old, decayed or broken merchants, being residenters within the town of Elgin, to the magistrates, and gave to them and his heir the right of presenting alternately. The inte- rest of the money and the rent of lands amount to L. 71, 18s. 9d* which is equally divided among the four persons admitted to the charity. Braco^s Mortification 1729, of some lands to the town for the support of a decayed burgess, produces about L. 23. The Earl of Fife names to the charity. Petrie^s Mortification^ of lands for defraying the education of six poor orphans or children within the parish of Elgin, is dated 1777, and is under the management of the kirk-session. Each of the children receive L. 4 annually, and have the benefit of the bur- sary for three years. Grey* 8 (the founder of the hospital) Charity for reputed old maids of the town of Elgin. This fund amounts to L. 2000, and will receive an addition of L. 1000 more on the death of Mrs Grey, the donor's widow, the annual interest of which is divided among the daughters of respectable but decayed families. The two clergymen and physicians of Elgin are the patrons. Laing^s Mortification^ of a park of land, to be applied towards maintaining a decayed merchant, burgess, and guild brother, pro- duces a rent of L. 5, 10s. per annum. The nearest relative of the donor living in the county is patron. Elgin Savings Bank. — This bank commenced in 1815, and for the first year and a-half the amount of deposits was only L. 212, lis. lOd. On the 30th May 1818, it was L. 478, 12s. 2d. After this it grew speedily into favour, for in 1820 the number of contri- butors was 222, and the amount deposited L. 2087, 5s. 9^d. In 1824, the contributors increased to 492, and the deposits to L.4851, 12s. ll^d. From that year until 1832, there was a gradual de- crease of deposits, averaging annually about L. 150, which was pro- bably owing in part to the rate of interest having been reduced. Since 1832 the investments have exceeded the sums annually with- drawn by L. 320 on an average. At Whitsunday last the number of depositors was 556, and the amount of deposits about equal to what it was in 1824, and during the currency of the past half year 26 ELGINSHIRE. they have risen about L. 200. The monthly transactions may average from L. 130 to L. 150 of receipts and payments. The investments are made generally, it may almost be said exclusively, by the labouring class. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The average number of poor on the roll of the kirk-session receiving regular parochial aid is 160. — Of these about 30 receive a weekly allowance from 6d. to 3s. or on an average L. 3, 5s. per annum. About L. 60 are distributed half yearly among the remaining 130 poor, averaging 9s. annually to each. Besides this sum, they receive each coals to the value of 2s. 2d. and the interest of money and lands under the management of the magistrates for behoof of the poor, amounting to L.2d, 7s. 6d. The amount of church collections 1834, L. 150 ; donations from one heritor, L. 5 ; other persons, L. 42 ; interest at four per cent for legacies and other funds destined for the relief of the poor under the management of the kirk-session, L. 1365, is L. 54, 15s. The casual supplies to the sick poor on the roll, and small salaries to the kirk-officer and beadle, consume the balance of contributions above what has been stated as regularly distributed. No regular mode of procuring funds for the poor, besides that of church collections, has been adopted. The kirk-session, aware that an assessment on the heritors would increase at least twofold the applications for relief, have hitherto successfully laboured to avoid it, by a careful inquiry into the circumstances of the applicant, and a timely, though small, supply. It is believed, that, generally speaking, the poor are averse to seek relief until driven to it by necessity, and that they consider it a degradation to be put upon the poors roll. Prisons. — The number of prisoners conBned in the Elgin jail in 1834 was one for murder, one for concealment of pregnancy, and three for assault. The jail is an old building, and the prisoners cannot be said to be well secured or well accommodated. The ma- gistrates have the government and superintendence of it, and, in as far as they can, are attentive to the health, diet, and lodging of the persons confined. A new jail, in accordance with the improvements of the age in such buildings, will be very soon erected at the ex- pense of the proprietors in the town and county. Fairs. — Besides the ten annual fairs held near the town for the sale of horses, cattle, &c there are two others in the town on the Fridays immediately preceding the terms of Martinmas and Whit- sunday, for hiring farm-servants. ELGIN. 27 InnSf Alehouses^ $*c. — There are in the town and suburbs 33 licen- sed innkeepers, 21 spirit-merchants, and 10 tippling-shops, and in the country part of the parish one inn or public-house. This extraordinary number might be reduced at least one-half without any inconvenience to the public, and with much advantage to the morals of the inhabitants. Too little attention is paid to the cha* racter of some who receive licenses, and there is great reason to suspect that those who recommend them are influenced by other mo- tives than the good of their fellow citizens. Many of the innkeep- ers are persons of good character, and to these the granting of li- censes ought to be confined, but there are others of an opposite de- scription, and whose houses are too often the haunts of folly and vice. The evils of the present system of indiscriminate licensing are too apparent to be denied, and an effort ought to be made by those who have the power to apply a remedy. FueL-^Ve^X or turf is used for lighting fires, but coal is almost the universal fuel of the town. The prime cost and freight of a keil of coals from Sunderland to Lossiemouth may be about L. 15, and the carriage to Elgin, five miles, about L. 4, 10s. The far- mers on the outskirts of the parish partly burn peat or turf; but the cost of casting, drying, and driving is so great, that the use of coal is every year becoming more general among them. Miscellaneous Observations. The improvements in the agricultural implements, in the system of farming, and in the breed of stock, — in the education, dress, houses, and other comforts of the peasantry, are very striking and extensive since the last Statistical Report. The drainage, — the straightening and laying out of the arable fields, — the farm-stead- ings, and the plantations, give to the general aspect of the parish a look of cultivation, and management, and prosperity, which, at the former period, it did not possess. The means of communica- tion are also most decidedly superior. It must be acknowledged, however, as has been already hinted, that there is still ample scope for improvement A more general and adequate allowance from the land-owner for waste land brought under proper culture by the tenant, and for enclosing and building, should be granted; addi- tional roads and planting are wanted, especially on the south side of the parish. The progress of improvement in the town is also very observable: Forty years ago there were no turnpike roads leading to or from it, no stage-coaches, no gas-work, no lightings or side pavement to the streets, no hospital for the sick, no insti- 28 ELGINSHIRE. tution for the support of old-age, and the education of youth, no academy, no printing-press, or newspaper published in the town. A large proportion of the houses have been built within the above period, and their external appearance and interior arrangements are vastly superior. The houses then occupied by the most re- spectable families of the place are now the dwellings of ordinary tradesmen. The improvements still wanting in the town are, a more efficient police, water brought into the streets and houses by pipes, and the removal of that greatest of nuisances, the shambles. Lfossie water filtered could be brought into the town, at an expense which the inhabitants would not grudge, if they once had experi- ence of the convenience and comfort of having an abundant supply at their doors and in their houses. Some attempts have been made to remove the slaughter-house and meat-market, but hitherto without success. An intelligent and pubUc-spirited citizen has favoured the writer with the follow- ing observations on this subject : ^^ On the advantage, and indeed, the necessity, of removing from a crowded neighbourhood and the centre of the town, that sink of impurity and danger, the present slaughter-house, there cannot be two opinions. The removal of the present meat-market to a drier and more airy situation is in- dispensably necessary to the comfort and welfare of the community. It is too confined, and so filthy, that the mistresses of famiUes are unable to attend it, and have therefore mostly abandoned the im- portant duty of personally laying out the money of their families to the best advantage." This duty is generally devolved on ser- vants, from the cause mentioned. The shambles are the property of the' town, and the magistrates must take the lead in any plan for their removal. Surely a central situation for a provision mar- ket, and a suitable one for a slaughter-house, could easily be found ; and if the town's funds cannot afibrd the outlay for erecting the necessary buildings, there is no doubt that, if a well-digested plan were laid before the public, the capital necessary would very soon be subscribed by a joint stock company. There is hardly any other undertaking in which the magistrates could engage, which would tend so much to promote the comfort and economy of the community, and to induce respectable families to fix their residence in a town so desirable on account of its schools, its society, and its climate. April 1835. PARISH OF ST ANDREWS LHANBRYD. PRESBYTERY OF ELGIN, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. W. LESLIE, MINISTER.* I. — Topography and Natural History. Name. — Lhanbryd signifies in Gaelic the Church of St Brid- get. It was united to that of St Andrews in 1782. Climate* — This district is subject, in the spring season, to'a suc- cession of storms called, in the common language of the country, the borrowing days, the Toochefs storm^ the Gouk's storm^ (the equinoxial,) and the ffab of May. The most unpleasant weather comes on about the last of these, a withering gale blowing cold from the thawing snow on the mountains of Norway and Denmark, and continuing steadily from the east, till near the summer sol- stice, equally injurious to vegetation and to animal life. The far- mer suffers every summer by drought ; it being computed that Moray and Nairn have forty dry days in the year more than any other county in the kingdom. It has by the rain-gage been ascer- tained that the quantity falling in the year is from 25 to 30 inches. Hydrography and Geology, — The drainage of the Loch of Spy- nie, at the cost of nearly L. 10,000, is still imperfect; the outfall, at first on a level with the ebb in the port of Lossiemouth, was of late injudiciously made farther up the river, and without the least advantage, nearly a foot above that of the first level. Upon its southern banks, the boundary of the parish for a mile, the late greatly esteemed John Brander, on the hypothesis that the coal of Brora, at the distance of 100 miles directly opposite on the other side of the frith, might be found about the same I depth on his estate here, bored 97 feet through a bed of sandstone uniformly continuous, with the exception of a very thin layer of limestone at two or three different depths. This perforation is kept open and clearly indicated by a weighty stone put over it The Lossie, having now by courtesy the title of river, though but a brook in its ordinary state, being in this parish the drain of about I • Drawn up from notes ftirnished by Mr Leslie. 30 ELGINSHIRE. 600 square miles, is nevertheless too inconsiderable to have been heard of in Egypt by Ptolemy, in the beginning of the second cen- tury, any more than its two conjoining brooks, the Lochty and the Lenoch, winding through their own dun hills. It is certain, that the Lossiein bygone ages occupied at different times different channels in its progress to the sea. Embankments of earth to prevent the over- flow of a spet were formed partially along the lower grounds adja- cent to the river several years ago; and since the deeply disastrous flood in 1829 they have been improved into a style of magnificence and security on both sides of the river through the whole extent of the plain,-— reared on a base of 20 feet broad, to the height of 8 or 10 feet, where the ground is low, slanting upwards to a trim walk along the top, of 3 or 4 feet in breadth. In one very ob- structive bend of the river, a straight course of half a mile was then also opened, to the depth of more than 5 feet, in wideness more than 40 feet. After the first Well, which cleared out the new chan- nel, its bottom was found a bed of clay, in which ridges formed by the plough in the direction of the shadow at one o'clock, ac- curately parallel and equal in breadth, were to admiration present- ed, which being now scarcely four feet above the level of the frith during the flood, suggests several interesting geological consider- ations, relating both to the surface of this part of the globe, and the scientific state of agriculture, before that deeply interesting al- teration, which superinduced upon this corn field of clay, a bed of fertile sandy loam,vover an extent of nearly 1000 acres to the thick- ness of nearly 6 feet ; when it was thus cultivated, the frith could not have been so far within the land, and even the German Ocean must have been then at a lower level than it is now. Secure, how- ever, as these costly embankments may be deemed at present, yet, if given up with presumptuous security to the burrowing of the aquatic rat and of rabbits, they will soon be found insufficient. In the excavation of the canal for the drain of the Loch of Spynie, there were six varieties of shells dug up, of which oysters and cock- les bore the larger proportion, with some specimens of a petrifac- tion called Belemnite, of which there is as little known of as the Carnu ammonis. In the beach which shut in the eastern end of the lake from the sea, such large accumulations of oyster shells have been found as to have been carted off for manure. In a new course lately formed for the brook which works the mill of Lhan- bryd, at the distance of seven miles southward from the shore, and more than two northward from the hill in which its component streamlets are united, there was turned out a boulder of more than y ST ANDREWS LHANBRYD. 31 a ton weight of blue argillaceous limestone, having its mass confus- edly mingled with a variety of petrified shells, in which the Comu ammonis was conspicuous, and muscle shells bore the largest pro- portion. If this boulder had ever been detached from the rock of the same material at Brora, its transportation to its long undis- turbed bed here, not three feet under the surface of the globe, is much more difficult to be accounted for, than that of the celebrated dwel- ling transported entire from the eastern shore of the Mediterra- nean Sea, to the western coast of the Adriatic II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — This parish had the credit of having preserved two Druidical monuments through all the mutations of nearly 3000 years, until lately when, for the sorry purpose of forming material for a road, and uniting a little spot of pasturage to a com field, one of these objects was annihilated. The other, at the distance scarcely of a mile, is nearly entire. III. — Population. Amount of population in 1801, • - 799 1811, - .869 1821, . . 934 1831, - - 1087 Number of families in the parish, - - 215 chiefly employed in agriculture, 165 in trade, manu&ctures, or handicraft, 26 IV. — Industry. -/fyricMZft£re.— This parish is now, with little exception, occupi- ed in farms of from 100 to about 400 or 500 acres, and by gentle- men of skill with adequate capital. The number of acres in cultivation is probably about 4000 never cultivated, (cannot be stated.) under wood, - - 650 The rental of the parish is betwixt L. 3000 and L. 4000. Manufactures. — In this parish there is one public manufacture of malt. Mr Brown carries on the business of a distiller at Link- wood, having invested a large capital in the requisite buildings and utensils, all in the most commodious arrangement, and of the most substantial construction, in the malting, grinding, brewing, distilling, and in the store. The stills are respectively of the con- tents of 400 and of 170 gallons, manufacturing yearly 1200 quar- ters of barley, and producing from 16,000 to 20,000 gallons of fine spirit, consumed mainly between the rivers Spey and Ness ; a small proportion only being disposed of in London, and in some of the larger cities of this kingdom ; the rivalry in brandy, rum, and gin, being inconsiderable. But a formidable competition is maintained by the great distilleries in the south of Scotland, which 32 ELGINSHIRE. import a coarser and a cheaper spirit than, in the circumstances of the distillers here, can be produced. Where this parish presses so closely on the city of Elgin as to have the gentle Lossie only intervening, there are two other manu- factories, — the very respectable manufactory of wool, begun by Alexander Johnston, Esq. which employs about 50 people in com- pleting cloth from 4s. to Is. the yard, with blankets, flannel of dif- ferent degrees of fineness, fancy articles, chiefly of wool, which are all disposed of mostly in the country. At Newmill there is also established a cast iron foundery, which, though upon a small scale, is of great convenience in the country, and receives increasing encouragement V. — Parochial Economy. Ecclesiastical State. — The kirk is as commodious for the people as in landward parishes kirks generally are. About 400 persons form the ordinary amount of the congregation. The stipend is 128 cwt. 90 lb. and 9 oz. of oat-meal, — of bear, 81 qrs. 1 bushel, 1 peck, and 14 pints, — and in cash, burdened with the cost of the communion, L. 6, lis. l^^^d. All the families in the parish, ex- cept three or four Dissenting or Seceding, attend the Established Church. Education. — The endowment of the parish school, including the yearly interest of L. 27, 15s. 6d., bequeathed by a distinguished an- cestor of the family of Fife, may be estimated almost at the high- est allowed by the 43 Geo. IIL cap. 54; and the accommodation is better than that act has provided. His fees may amount to L. 10 per annum. The people are all quite sensible of the ad- vantages of education. With scarcely any exception they can all read, and with few exceptions, they can write; although there, are many who do not write often, and a great many also who add nothing to their stock of knowledge by their reading. There is no occasion for any other besides the parish school. Although not permanently endowed, it would be improper to omit the men- tion of Mr Barclay's private academy at Calcots. That gentleman teaches every thing requisite for our national universities, and for the business of life. The number of his pupils at present (the sons of respectable families in other parishes) is 27, in addition to his own sons. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The funds for the poor, after de- ducting expenses, amount to about L. 36 yearly. The number of poor at present is 42. April 1835. PARISH OF DUFFUS. PRESBYTERY OF ELGIN, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. ALEXANDER BRANDER, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name^ Extent^ <^e. — This parish, the name of which is supposed to be derived from the Gaelic word ^^Dubuisf* signifying " black lake," and having reference to the lake of Spynie now drained, or to some other lake of which no vestiges remain, extends along the south side of the Moray Frith for nearly 6 miles, and having an ave- rage breadth of about 3 miles. Its figure is that of an irregular parallelogram, bounded to the north by the sea, and on the other points by the adjoining parishes of Drainie, New Spynie, and Alves. Topographical Appearances^ — Along the coast, and for half a mile inland, the surface is for the most part a meager green " henty^* pasture. All this ground had formerly, it is believed, been a rich cultivated soil, but was overblown with sand from the western beach, at the same time probably that the large estate of Culbin in Nairn* shire was entirely destroyed by a similar calamity. The sand has long ceased to blow ; and a great portion of this space, as well as of land more partially covered, has been brought into culture by the joint efforts of enterprise and industry. All the rest of this parish is arable, and in a state of complete cultivation. It presents in its general aspect an entire and unbroken level, with the exception of an eminence called the hill of Roseisle, and an artificial mound, upon which stand the ruins of the castle of Duffus, — ^which two accli- vities serve, in a considerable degree, to diminish the tameness of a landscape, which, though at certain seasons rich and even beauti- ful, offers little of the grand or picturesque to gratify the eye of taste. It exhibits, however, what is perhaps better and more pleas- ing to the eye of benevolence, fertile, rich, and well -tilled fields, occupying the industry, and supplying the wants of many peaceful and happy families. In the western district of the parish the soil is a black earth, in some places a good deal mixed with sand, but in gene- ELGIN. c 34 ELGINSHIRE. ral of excellent quality and great productiveness. The eastward dis- trict is a deep rich clay, resembling that of the Carse of Gowrie, to which noble tract of country the plain of Duffus bears also externally a degree of similarity, wanting, however, its princely river and wide spreading groves, — grievous wants to be sure, yet not altogether ir- remediable, since the latter defect has been so far amended by one of the smaller proprietors on his ground, and promises to be still farther rectified by judicious improvements now in progress upon the estate of the principal heritor. The ground is in fact gene- rally too valuable to be devoted to extensive plantations; but the plan of hedging and hedge-growing, which imparts such rich- ness to many districts of England equally flat with this, would, it is thought, afford much protection to the cattle and the crops, as well as greatly embellish the district. This seems, indeed, the only improvement which it requires, and as peculiarly suited to it, it is to be hoped, that the system so tastefully and efficiently begun will be gradually and successfully extended. The sea coast at the east end of this parish is rocky, and very bold, (although a mile or two west, it subsides into a level sandy beach,) and contains some large and remarkable caverns, accessible on foot at low water, and which, it is probable, formed in earlier times a secure and favourite resort of those engaged in contraband traffick. Towards the west extremity of the parish, a small rock or promontory of land runs boldly into the sea, forming a conspi- cuous object in the navigation of the frith. It was formerly the site of a Roman fortification, and is now that of a populous and thriving village. Climate, — The temperature of this parish, in common with that of the county, is remarkably mild for its latitude. The superior earliness and warmth of the plains of Morayshire are such, that harvest often commences here simultaneously with that in the Lo- thians, and many parts'of England. The climate of this district, compared with that of the neighbouring counties, and of Britain generally, is so genial, that physicians of eminence acquainted with it have declared that they would prefer it to Devonshire for the winter. In the season 1829-30, the winter was greatly milder here than at London or Paris, or even (during its brief rigor) at Rome. More is suffered from cold in spring, particularly during the first ten days of May, than during the depth of what are cal- led the winter months* Comparatively little rain falls in this quar- ter, though, from the nature of the soil, it occasionally lies long. d DUFPUS. 35 The wind blows almost three-fourths of the year from the west or south-west ; the east wind, however, is very keen and severe at the spring season alluded to, and occasional storms come from the north and north-west, but they are rare and of short continuance. It is difficult to say whether the existing state of the weather greatly affects the health of the inhabitants, though necessarily from their pursuits much exposed to the " skyey influences." Fever is the ma- lady which seems most prevalent amongst them ; pulmonary com- plaints are not uncommon among the agricultural part of the com- munity, but of rare occurrence among the seafaring portion of it. '* It is' a truth," says the former Statistical Account of Duffus, ^* which no mere Englishman will readily believe, that in this com- paratively rude part of Britain, the itch is less frequent in propor- tion to its population than in the British capital." It is a still more gratifying fact, that this loathsome disorder is now all but extinct. The Moray Frith bounds this parish on the north, and is about thirty miles in breadth betwixt it and the opposite coast of Suther- land. Its usual colour is a rather deep blue, varied by green where the bottom is rocky ; it often exhibits a luminous phosphorescent appearance at the approach of storms; but its tides do not rise high, fortunately, else the plains of Duffus, Drainie, Leuchars, and Innes, which lie but a few feet above its ordinary level, would be subject to frequent and disastrous inundations. Hydrography* — There are few springs throughout this parish, and none of what are called ^^ mineral waters," though the water is in several places impregnated with iron. One sainted spring situ- ated near the shore, and welling deliciously out of the pure sand, deserves mention, as a former resort of pilgrims, and still an ob- ject of superstitious curiosity to the peasantry of the county. No river, indeed scarcely a rivulet, takes its course through the parish, owing to the flatness of the country; this is both very inconvenient, and extremely disadvantageous to the people. There is now no lake properly speaking in this parish, though the loch of Spynie when full' used to extend into it for a mile or two. Indeed, it formerly lay within so short a distance of the castle of Duffus, that its moat was thence supplied; but in its present re- duced dimensions from draining, it is entirely without the bounds of the parish of Duffus. II. — Civil History. Antiquities, — Several interesting monuments of former times remain. Upon a gentle eminence, or rather mound, which bears 36 ELGINSHIRE. many marks of artificial construction, stand the ruins of the castle of DufTus, the ancient seat of the Lords of that name, — a branch of the noble house of Sutherland, which still bears the title (re- cently restored from attainder) though it now possesses no pro- perty in the district. It was a square tower about 20 feet high, and 5 feet thick, with a parapet, ditch, drawbridge, and other ap- pendages of a fortified baronial residence, and its date of erection is fixed in the reign of David I. who (it is said, but on no good au- thority,) gave a grant of the ground to a family of the name of Cheyne, which built the castle in this defensive form, (because they had been guilty of some crime in France,) which exposed them to persecution. The walls of the castle are still pretty entire on the west side, having been built with run lime ; and it appears to have been a place of considerable strength as well as importance, hav- ing been partly surrounded by the lake of Spynie, and no place within several miles having sufficient elevation to command it, — the surrounding country besides having been then marshy and diffi- cult of access. Its orchard and garden are f|ill in preservation ; but the castle itself has long ceased to be occupied. An old woman was lately alive, whose mother recollected to have seen the cele- brated Claverhouse ( Viscount Dundee) on a visit to the Lord Duf- fus of that day. Very indistinct remains of what is supposed to have been a Ro- man camp occur on a spot near the west end of the parish, w^ith a paved road leading to it; but its outline and parts are so much ob- literated as to elude description, and no tradition exists to aid in- quiry on the subject Several tumuli or " cairns" are to be seen on the heights along the shore, marking, it may be presumed, the graves of distinguish- ed warriors, but none have been lately opened. In trenching land on the estate of Inverugie, stone coffins have been occasionally dis- covered, containing, however, nothing remarkable. Some years ago there stood about the centre of this parish an obelisk, which was conjectured to have been erected by Malcolm 11. i n commemoration of a victory over the Danes under Camus, and near this monument there was a village called Kaim, which was supposed to be the village mentioned by Buchanan as retaining the memorable name of Camus. This village is now removed ; but. the place retains the name of Kaim. But the most interesting relict of antiquity is the remains of for- tifications at Burghead, by some maintained to be Roman, and by DUFFUS. 37 others accounted Danish, but very probably occupied by both na- tions. General Roy, in his learned and elaborate work upon the Roman Antiquities of Britain, makes Burghead the most northerly regular station of that illustrious people, the " Ptoroton^* of Richard of Cirencester, and the " Alata Castra^* of Ptolemy of Alexandria; and supports his statements by correct references to its distance re- spectively {rom Jussis { Spey river, ) and Barris ( Forres ;) and by seve- ral plausible arguments, he places Ptoroton at the end of the ninth, and commencement of the tenth iter of Richard; and mentions it as the chief town of the Vacomagi, and enjoying the privileges and immunities of Roman citizenship. A deep well, built with a regu- larity and elegance seemingly beyond the attainment of a rude people like the Danes, has been recently discovered, and adds an- other argument to these in favour of General Roy's position, which one is ready enough to admit, upon even slenderer grounds ; because one would wish to believe that the spot he daily treads had been familiar to the footsteps of that imperial race, and would gladly confer upon a place presenting few natural attractions the charm of a reflected classical fame. It seems probable that the Danes who invaded Scotland about 1008, seized this promontory and oc- cupied it as a stronghold until they were driven from the country ; bestowing on it the name of Burgus, which it still retains, but slight- ly changed, being at present called " the brough" by the com- mon people. These old works were divided into two parts, a higher and a lower; and presented no less than four strong ramparts (built with oaken logs) towards the small isthmus upon which the village of Burghead now stands ; in the gradual extension of which these interesting remains have been much defaced. The trench which insulated the promontory has in the course of time been filled up, and the rectangular platform at its summit lowered and partially covered with buildings Land-owners. — The principal land-owners in the parish are, Sir Archibald Dunbar of Northfield, Baronet, and his eldest son Archibald Dunbar, Esq. — to which family half the parish belongs ; Sir William Gordon Gumming of Altyre and Gordonstoun, Bart. ; Charles L. Gumming Bruce, Esq. of Roseisle and Kinnaird ; William Stuart, Esq. of Inverugie ; Thomas Brander, Esq. of Roseislehaugh ; and William Young Esq. of Burghead. III.-5- Population. The whole resident population of the parish of DuflFus in the year 1662, inferred from the avecage number of baptisms in that 38 BLGINSHIRE. and the two succeeding years, as compared with those of ISdl, was 1482 souls ; and they appear to have resided chiefly in the four vil- lages of Burghead, Roseisle, Kaim, and Kirktown, and in the ham- lets of College, Buthill, Starwood, Inskiel, and Unthank* PopuUtion in 1801, . - 1339 1811, . - 1623 1821, . 1950 According to the census of 1831, which was taken here with the greatest exactness, the population of this parish was distribut- ed as follows : in the village of Burghead, - 749 of Port Cumming, - 197 of Hopeman, - 445 of New Duffus, - 19B In country and landward district^ - 755 2344 The chief apparent causes of the increasing population are im- provements in agriculture, extension of the fisheries, and more ge- neral division of labour. The yearly average of recorded births (and care is taken to have all regularly registered) for the last seven years, is 67 ; that of the deaths may be estimated at 14, though in this particular the registration is not so correct ; and that of the marriages at 15. In 1821, a year for which there exist the best possible data, the actual number of persons of various ages were respectively as ud-^ der, Under fifteen years, - males 406 - Ibmales 3B2 fifteen to thirty, - 232 - 238 thirty to fifty, • 186 - 239 fifty to seventy. - 94 - 120 Above seventy years, - 25 - 28 943 1007 943 Total of all ages, 1950 Number of fiunilics in the parish, . - - - • 533 chiefly employed in agriculture^ - - lOO in trade, manufiicturcs, or handicraft, 88 And by the same return the average number of children in each family under ten years of age was found to be 1;^ nearly. The only families of independent fortune resident in the parish are those of three of the heritors, Mr Dunbar of Northfield ; Mr Stuart, and Mr Brander. The six proprietors already named are all (and they alone are) possessed of ]and of the yearly value of Li 50 and upwards. The people on the whole enjoy in a considerable degree the DUFFUS. 39 comforts and advantages of society. Their general character is in- telligent and industrious, as well as moral and religious. No poaching, smuggling, or any species of unlawful tra£Sc prevails amongst them, IV. — Industry. Agriculture, — Extent of arable English Acres in the parish of Dufius, 5,381 In pasture, - - - - 2,962 Under wood, - - - 310 8,653 No part of this parish remains in a state of undivided common. Little of the land which does lie waste would repay the expense of cultivation. Scotch firs in too large a proportion with all the kinds of hard wood, occur in the plantations which are (with one exception) well managed, as regards thinning, periodical felling, pruning, &c. Rent ofLan(L — Some of the land is rented at L. 2, 10s. to L.3 per acre, but the average rent of arable land, including pasture, let in potatoes with the arable ground, may be stated at L. 1, 6s. 6d. per English acre. Rate of fVaffes. — Labourers at farm and other work earn in the long day Is. 8d. and in the short Is. 4d ; tradesmen gain 2s. 6d. in summer, and 2s« in winter; ploughmen are boarded in families, and their wages are from L. 9 to L. 12 a-year. Husbandry. — Considerable attention has of late been paid to improving the breed of cattle, aided much by premiums offered by the Morayshire Farmers Club, — the breed being locally known as Morayshire, and somewhat resembling the Highland breed, but of more weight. The general rotation of cropping is the six-shift with two years grass ; but some of the strong clay land is wrought in a four-shift series with one year grass. Most farms are tolera- bly well drained and in a good state of tillage, and generally held on leases of nineteen years' duration, affording reasonable allowance and opportunity for improvement. The farm-buildings are mostly straw thatched, but substantial and of suitable extent for the size of the farms, and in general in good order. On several farms, the property of Sir W. Gordon Cumming, the tenants are reclaiming waste land by deep trenching at an expense of about L. 10 per Scotch acre. Lime has within these few years been extensively used as a manure by the more opulent farmers, and with decided success. Produce. — The gross amount of raw produce raised in the pa- rish is supposed to be as follows : 40 ELGINSHIRE. Grain - • - L. 17,613 Hay, pasture grass, turn ipS| and potatoes, - 4,193 L. 21,806 Quarries. — The quarries which occur here are of sandstone and limestone. The former are let for L. 60 of annual rent, while the latter average L. 27, 10s. and yield about 3500 bolls of lime sold at 3s. 6d. per boll (Moray barley measure.) Fishings. — There are three kinds of fishing carried on in this parish, viz, the salmon, the herring, and the white fisheries. The first of these is acquired by stake-nets erected at the village of Burghead, to the proprietor of which it yields L* 100 per annum. The herring fishery was for many years extremely fortunate and profitable on this coast, but has for the last few seasons been very unsuccessful. Shell-fish are not abundant, but the supply of all the ordinary varieties of white fish is plentiful and excellent About eighty boats are generally congregated in autumn for the herring fish- ery ; and ten boats are employed during the year at the white fish- ing, the value of which may be from L. 200 to L. 300 per annum. Navigation. — Burghead is the only port (since the decay of Hopeman harbour) frequented by vessels, and it is visited by per- haps 400 in the course of a year. The number of ships belong- ing to it is twelve, measuring 738 tons register, and amongst these are regular traders to London, Leith, Liverpool, Aberdeen, &c. V. — Parochial Economy. Means of Communication. — This parish is distant about three miles (at its south border) from Elgin, the market, post, and coun- ty town, with which it enjoys easy communication by means of a turnpike road at its west, and a good commutation road at \is east end. A light curricle conveys the mails to the villages of Duffus, Hopeman, and Burghead, at each of which there are branch post-offices. Villages^ — These just named, with anothercalled Port-Cumming, are the principal villages in the parish of Duffus. New Duffus, on the estate of Sir A. Dunbar, Bart, is a remarkably neat, regular^ and cleanly village, the prettiest, probably, in the county, except the beautiful and picturesque little town of Rothes. Hopeman, on the coast, though regularly built, ,is extremely dirty, and its harbour has been of late allowed to go almost completely to wreck. Port- Cumming is also a straggling and dirty village. Burghead is large5 populous, and for the most part well kept; it possesses a good harbour, erected about twenty-four years ago, by subscription, to which Go- DUFFUS. 41 verament contributed L. 2000. Several large and commodious houses (including an excellent inn) have been built of late years; and the enterprising proprietor has constructed baths for the accommodation of summer visitors, who frequent the place in considerable nutn- bers. Regular communication with London, Leith, &c. by traders and steam ships, a daily post and carriers to and from Elgin, com- fortable lodging houses, and pleasant sea walks, add to its advan- tages as a watering-place. Ecclesiastical State, — The parish church, (of which Sir A. Dun- bar of Northfield is patron,) is very inconveniently situated at the east- ern extremity of the parish ; which evil, however, is less felt, since the erection of a chapel of ease at Burghead. It was thoroughly repaired in 1782, and is still substantial, but, like most of the old churches in Scotland, constructed without the least regard to ap- pearance, comfort, or commodious arrangement. The reverse is the case with regard to the manse, which was built in 1830, and is a very handsome and comfortable house, with a most compact and con- venient square of offices at a proper distance. The glebe contains nine acres of good ground, two of which are occupied with garden, orchard, &c. and the stipend is 120 bolls of barley, with the same quantity of meal, and allowance for communion expenses. There is a chapel of ease to the Established church situated at Burghead, the clergyman of which is paid partly by the seat rents, and part^ ly by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge and the Committee for managing the Royal Bounty. His stipend is about L. 70 per annum, and a house has lately been built for him by vo- luntary subscription. There is a Secession meeting-house in the village of Burghead, but not always open, from the scantiness and poverty of the congregation. An Episcopalian chapel, near Kaim, is attended by a very limited but respectable congregation. Divine service is well attended at church, and also at the several chapels, but it were difficult, if not impracticable, to ascertain the number of families which resort to each. Fully three-fourths of the popula- tion, however, attend the Established Church ; and twelve families are Episcopalians. The number of communicants at the parish church is about 400. Education, — There are in whole eight schools within this parish, four of which are taught by male teachers, and four by females. Of these the most important are the parochial school and that of the General Assembly at Burghead, both well conducted and at- tended, and affi)rding instruction in the usual branches of education, 4 42 ELGINSHIRE. Latin and Greek, mathematics, geography, grammar, writing, and reading. The number of pupils attending the different schools within the parish amounts at present to nearly 300, of whom the two seminaries specially mentioned engross one-half. The parish school salary is the maximum allowed by law, and the school fees, bating those of paupers and bad debts, may amount annually to L. 12, or upwards, and the teacher possesses the limit- ed statutory accommodations, — with the prospect of sharing in '^ the Dick bequest" It is believed there are no young persons (of competent age) within the parish who cannot read and write, (though many adults, especially among the seafaring part of the community, are destitute of these advantages,) which shows that pa- rents and the people in general are alive to the benefits of educa- tion, and anxious to secure them for their families. Libraries. — The only public libraries in this parish are on the itinerating plan ; one being already in circulation, and another ex- pected to be procured in a short time. There is a public read- ing room in the village of Burghead. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor receiving parochial aid is at present 81, and the amount of contributions for their relief (almost entirely from church collections,) is from L. 50 to L. 56 a-year, to which the non-resident heritors have of late added liberal donations. The total sum, however, when di- vided, furnishes but a miserable pittance, the average being 12s. a-year to each pauper ; and holds out little temptation to the poor to solicit parish relief, which, with a commendable spirit of inde- pendence, they are still slow and reluctant to claim. InnSi Sfc. — The number of small inns and alehouses (often very carelessly licensed,) is very great, and their effects on the morals and circumstances of the people are most pernicious and deplor- able, though not more so here than elsewhere. Fuel. — Coals are the fuel chiefly used, with the addition of wood and peat, but the last is comparatively unfrequent Miscellaneous Observations. The most striking differences betwixt the present state of the parish, and that exhibited in the last Statistical Account, are brief- ly these : A decided and palpable improvement has taken place in agriculture ; — the farms being now held on regular leases, well- drained and cultivated ; — the ordinary as well as the gentlemen far- mers being comfortable in their circumstances and dwellings, and able, consequently, to avail themselves of new improvements in farm DUFFUS. 43 implements, to procure good horses and cattle, and to maintain them in good order, though at present the. low price of agricultural produce prevents their realizing all the amendments in husbandry of which the exceedingly rich soil of this parish is susceptible* The roads have undergone wonderful improvements, having been almost impassable in vrinter twenty-five years ago ; but much still remains to be done in this respect, the facilities of internal com- munication being limited by the inadequacy of the commutation funds for making and repairing roads. Many waste places have been planted, and wood otherwise disposed for profit alike and or- nament. The draining of the lake of Spynie, from which so much was expected by the projectors, has ameliorated some portions of land in this parish ; but elsewhere has totally failed to fulfil the golden hopes cherished regarding it. The building of Burghead harbour has greatly enlarged that village, and increased the trade and opulence of the parish and county, — the herring and salmon fishery, and the extension of steam-navigation, adding also to this increase. A very great change has taken place in the circumstan- ces and manners of the people. They are now better fed and better lodged^ less superstitious in their ideas, and more refined in their habits. Their houses and persons are more cleanly, and their dress more expensive and tasteful. It may be doubtful, how- ever, whether they are more temperate or upright. The very amount of the poors' funds proves the increase of wealth, exhibiting an advance from L. 15 to L. 56 per annum, and shews inter alia^ that this northern parish has not lagged far behind the rest of Scot- land in her rapid march of improvement during last half century* Apnl 1836, PARISH OF URQUHART. PRESBYTERY OF ELGIN, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. JAMES MACLEAN, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. . Name, — The name [/rywAar/ appears to be compounded of three Gaelic words, viz, oire, a coast, an edge, a brink,— ^/Jm^ long, — and amhan^ a river or water; and would seem to have been imposed to denote the great length of sea coast by which the parish is bound- ed on one of its sides. That ihis etymology is the true one, " ap- pears highly probable from two circumstances ; of which one is, that the' name Urquhart is pronounced by Highlanders, when speaking Gaelic, Urachadan^ which differs very little in sound from the three Gaelic words above-mentioned, when joined in one, and pronounced by a Highlander : the other, that the two Highland parishes of the same name are similarly bounded on one side ; Ur- quhart in Ross-shire by the Frith of Dingwall, and Urquhart in Inverness-shire by Liochness, — the line of coast in each being of very considerable length.*' Boundaries^ §'c.— The parish of Urquhart is bounded on the north by a line of sea coast 5 miles in length, extending from the mouth of the river Lossie on the west, to that of the river Spey on the east ; and an equilateral triangle erected on this line as a base, gives a pretty correct idea of its shape or figure. It excludes from the sea the two contiguous parishes, St Andrews Lhanbryd on the west, and Speymouth on the east, which two parishes meet where the parish of Urquhart terminates on the south. The barony of Garmouth, situated in the angle formed by the river Spey and the sea coast, was annexed, quoad sacra, to the parish of Speymouth ; but the teinds of that bapony still form a part of the fund from which the incumbent of Urquhart derives his income. Topographical Appearances, — The sea coast, through its whole extent, is a sandy beach, with the exception of a small rock called " The Beards Head^^ not visible at high water. The shore has no creek or landing-place capable of receiving or accommodating so much URQUHART. 45 as a fishing boat. The small lake, called the Loch of Cotts, hav- ing been drained about thirty-three years ago, there is now no lake in the parish ; neither are there hills in it deserving the name, yet the names of places would indicate that it abounded in both. It must appear somewhat strange that the elevation of places called Longhill, Broomhill, Lochhill, Gladhill, and Hills, should not ex- ceed twenty-five feet above the level of the sea; and that the in- habitants of Easter Lochs, and Wester Lochs should be but in- differently supplied with water even for domestic purposes. There is no river in the parish ; the only streams which run through it are three small brooks or rivulets, on one of which there are two mills, one for grinding corn, and the other for sawing timber ; on another of them a corn mill has been lately erected by a tenant in the neighbourhood, as a spTeculation, and is sufficiently employed. Thirlage being abolished, the tenants are at liberty to grind their corns at any mill they please. With the exception of a plain of about 2^ square miles on the north-west, elevated .not more than ten feet above the level of the sea, the surface of this parish is unequal and waving, but no where so steep as to render more than two horses necessary for drawing the plough. The general appearance of this parish is beautiful, the moors having been long since planted, and every barren hillock in the arable part of it covered with a clump of fir trees. Finfan Well. — Near the line which divides Urquhart from Spey- mouth, at a place called Finfan, there is a well which is resorted to in the summer season by a few invalids, (not more perhaps than five or six) for the recovery of their health. It does not ap- pear that the water of it has been analyzed, but its taste and smell resemble those of the Strathpeffer spa, and its effects are said to be the same ; and it might have attained to equal celebrity had it had the good fortune to be recommended with the eloquence and zeal by which the late Dr Morrison brought the Strathpeffer spa into such high repute. General Sir James Duff, who till lately was in the habit of spending a part of the summer at Innes House, built a neat cottage at Finfan, and placed a person in it to keep the well ^nd furnish water to occasional visitors. Sir James, while at Innes House, visited this well almost every day ; owing to which circumstance, and the trouble and expense he put himself to re- specting it, it is now usually called Sir Jaitaes's well. II. — Civil History. Antiquities. — About half a mile from the church, and near to 46 ELGINSHIRE. Innes House, the remains of a Druidical temple are still to be seen, consisting of nine tall stones fixed in the earth, and placed in a circle, the entrance to which, fronting the east, has a stone on each side taller than the rest. In a hillock, called the cross-hillock of Kempston, there was lately found a human skeleton in a reclining posture, with its head to the north-east It crumbled quickly to dust when exposed to the air. A hillock, or barrow, on the farm of Meft, on being opened, was found to contain two very rude urns full of ashes and burnt bones. In the moor (now covered with wood) about a mile and a half east from the church, there is a rising ground almost entirely sur- rounded by a trench, and which, if tradition may be credited, was a Danish camp. Near it there is a hollow called the ^^ Innocents Howe," where, it is said, that the women and children of the natives had taken shelter, and that the Danes, having discovered their re- treat, put them all to death. No vestige of the richly endowed priory of Urquhart now re- mains ; its site only is indicated by the name Abbey toett^ still given to the fountain which supplied the monks with water. Its ample possessions shared the fate of the property of the church through- out the kingdom in the reign of James VI. The lordship of Urquhart, the lands of Fochabers, and some other lands in this country, together with a part of the salmon fishing of the Spey, which all belonged to this priory, were seized by the crown, and granted partly to court favourites, and partly as rewards to cham- pions of the Reformation. Modem Buildings. — Innes House and the grounds around it are particularly attractive of notice. The house, a large, tall, irregular building, was for a long period the residence of the lairds of Innes, and is now that of James Duff, Esq. by whom it has been render- ed one of the most elegant and commodious mansions in this coun- ty, and by whom also the grounds around it have been laid out in excellent taste. The only other mansion-house in the parish is that of Leuchars, a more modern structure, and much smaller than Innes House, but in thorough repair, and a most comfortable residence for the gentleman who now occupies it as a tenant. Exclusive of the barony of Garmouth, which, as has been stated, is not in this parish quoad sacra, and with the exception of two or three very small farms on the eastern side which belong to the Duke of Gordon, the whole landed property of it was acquired. URQUHART. 47 partly by purchase, and partly by excambion, by the late James Earl of Fife ; and, under a trust-deed executed by that Earl, has, since his death, been managed by trustees. III. — Population. For nearly a century previous to 1755, the annual average of baptisms recorded in the session register was double what it has been in the last seven years, and hence the parish must have been then considerably more populous than it is at present ; but proba* bly not so much more so, as the greater number of births would indicate, a greater number of children having died then, than die now, owing to the small-pox and other diseases not being now pre- valent, or having ceased to be fatal, except in a few instances. Population in 1801, - 1023 1811, - 936 1821, - 1003 1831, - 1019 The number residing in Urquhart, the only village of the parish ia 160 of families in the parish is, - 220 In this village there are about twelve tradesmen, consisting of shopkeepers, masons, wrights, blacksmiths, shoemakers, and tail- ors, but these with only four exceptions, occupy crofts of land, so that the whole parish may be said to be agricultural. The annual average of baptisms in the last seven years is 18f , of marriages 5^. There is no register of deaths. Character of the People, — The people are shrewd, intelligent, industrious and well-behaved. They have all of them been taught to read and write; and though they cannot talk fluently on religi- ous subjects, they seem sensible of their obligations to live in the fear of God and in the practice of Christian duties. Their attend- ance on the public ordinances of religion is upon the whole regular. IV. — Industry. Agriculture^ Sfc, — The number of Scotch arable acres in this parish may be stated at 3100, and the average rent per acre at L. 1, 5s. The valued rent is K 5567, 15s. 6d. Scots. There are six farms of more than 100 acres eachr With the exception of about 120 acres possessed by the villagers of Urquhart, in lots of from two and a-half to seven acres each, the rest of the parish is divided into farms, varying in size from 20 to 100 acres. The number of tenants qualified to vote at the election of a Member of Parliament for the county is 21. The extent of waste land may be stated at about 200 acres, and of woods, all planted by the late James Earl of Fife, at 2478, consisting chiefly of Scotch firs. They are thinned annually by 48 ELGINSHIRE. sales, partly of decayed trees for fuel, but chiefly of young trees for hurdles, and full grown ones for rafters and deals. Of late years, there have been planted annually in the parish from 20 to 30,000 hardwood trees, but very few Scotch firs. The woods ap- pear to be all in a thriving state. Husbandry. — The soil is light and sandy, generally of a kindly na- ture, and well adapted for producing turnips, potatoes, barley, grass, and oats, to which crops the cultivator till within these few years chiefly confined himself; but his great object now is to raise as much wheat as possible ; and, accordingly, an eighth, and in some instances, a fifth part of the farm is sown with wheat; whether to the advantage of the farmer upon the whole may admit of a doubt; his inducement to adopt this management appears to be, that wheat is the grain most easily and readily converted into money to meet the rent and expenses. The rotation of cropping most common in this parish is, Xst, turnips and potatoes ; 2c^, wheat and oats ; 3^, grass, (of which but a small proportion is made into hay) ; 4^A, grass (pastured) ; 5M, wheat and oats; 6^A, oats. When barley is wanted, it is sown in a part of the fifth or sixth lots, in place of oats; seldom in the second. The average quantity of grain obtained from an acre is probably not equal to what it is in some other parts of Moray- shire ; but the quality of it will bear a comparison with that of any grain in the kingdom. The average produce of a Scotch acre may be estimated at from three to four quarters. The improvement of wastp lands in this part of the country would be attended with no advantage to the farmer. Most of these lands are overrun with furze and broom, which it would cost a very considerable expense to root out, and carry ofi^; and the soil when turned up by the plough, would produce nothing if not richly dunged, which, obviously it could not be, without oblig- ing the farmer to his great loss, to stint his fields already in culti- vation of their usual allowance of manure. The improvement most likely to be profitable, it is apprehended would be, to lay plenty of lime on the land already under the plough, and to use bones as a manure for raising turnips. These substances have been tried in this quarter, and have answered remarkably well ; but the cost (from 3s. 6d. to 4s. for a boll (128 Scotch pints) of unslaked lime, and 3s. per bushel of ground bones,) rather exceeds the ability of the smaller farmers to procure them in any consider- able quantity. URQUHART. 49 Rabbits, owing to the prodigious increase of their number with- in the last three or four years, have become destructive in no in- considerable degree to the wheat and rye brairds, and turnips. The measures taken for abating this nuisance by the gentlemen who manage this property as trustees, have not yet had all the efifect that could be wished : and perhaps it might be well that the farmer himself were permitted to use such means as he might find necessary for protecting his crops from this sort of depreda- tion. Produce, — The average amount and value of raw produce yearly raised in the parish, as nearly as can be ascertained, is as follows : Grain of all kinds, . L. 7456 Potatoes, turnips, - - 1854 Hay, - . - 150 Pasture, ... 1500 L. 10,960 V. — Parochial Economy. Mai'ket'Toum* — The nearest market town is Elgin, which is five miles distant from the church of Urquhart. Means of Communication* — The length of turnpike road pas- sing through the parish is 2| miles. County roads have been made where they are wanted, and are kept in tolerably good re- pair. There is no Justice of Peace resident in the parish, not even a Constable. To give a small matter to vagrants is found to be attended with less trouble and expense than to deal with them as they must often be dealt with in towns. Ecclesiastical State, — The only place of worship in the parish is the parish church, of which the situation is sufficiently convenient, its distance from the farthest extremity of the parish being scarce- ly three miles. The church is an old house, but in good repair, and affords sufficient accommodation for the population. The sit- tings may be said to be free, excepting those in a small gallery, for which the kirk-session draw about L. 4 of rent annually for behoof of the poor. A certain space has been allotted by the pro- prietors of the parish to each farm according to the size, for which the tenant at his entry pays at the rate of 9s. for a pew, which, how- ever, is repaid to him at his removal ; so that for six sittings, the number of sittings in a pew, the rent paid yearly is no more than the interest of 9s. The manse, an excellent house, was built in the year 1822. The extent of the glebe is five acres, the value about L. 1, 5s. per ELGIN. D 50 ELGINSHIRE. acre; the amount of stipend, as modified in 1829, is fifteen chal- ders, the one-half meal and the other half barley, and Li 10 of money. The only Dissenters in the parish are three families of Antiburgher Seceders, and three of Episcopalians, consisting of about 25 individuals. The sacrament of the Lord's Supper is dispensed once a-year ; and the average number of communicants is 200. Education. — The parochial school is the only one in the parish at present. The branches taught in i( are, English, English gram- mar, Latin, Greek, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, the elements of algebra, and practical geometry. The schoolmaster's salary is the maximum. He has a comfortable dwelling-house, and is paid the statutory allowance for a garden. The Earl of Dunfermline's mor- tification to the school of Urquhart of twelve bolls meal annually (eight and a«half stone Dutch weight to the boll,) is now paid to the schoolmaster according to the fiar price of the county. The amount of school fees does not exceed L. 6 a-year. Last year there was another school in the parish, but the mas- ter left it for a better situation. Another teacher is wanted, and in all probability will soon be found, to supply his place. The emoluments of the last teacher consisted of school fees, and an al- lowance of three guineas annually by the trustees of the late James Earl of Fife. Poor and Parochial Funds, — The average number of -persons receiving parochial aid is thirty, and the average sum allotted to each annually is L. 1. In the course of a year, casual relief is af- forded to persons not on the roll, to the amount of from L. 2 to L. 3. The annual amount of contributions and other funds for relief of the poor is as follows : Average of weekly ooUections in the church, - L. 24 Mortincation payable by the town-council of Elgin from land called the Shooting acrefl, - - - 2 13 6 Rent of gallery in the church, - - 4 L. 64 in bank, reierved to meet a time of unusual distress, at 2 per cent. 15 7 'Donations, average cannot be calculated, but say, ■> 2 L.d3 19 1 Applications for parochial relief are not frequent, and the circum - stances of those who do apply for it are so well known to the mem- bers of the kirk-session, that there is little danger of its being given to such as do not really stand in need of it Miscellaneous Observations. The improvements in husbandry, which, at the time of the last SPEYMOUTH. 51 Statistical Account, were in their infancy, and hesitatingly attempt- ed by some of the more wealthy tenants, are now generally adoptr ed. Turnips and sown grass, which were then far from common, may now be seen on every, even the smallest farm ; and with re- gard to the dress and diet of the people, a considerable change to the better has evidently taken place in both. Apra 1835. PARISH OF SPEYMOUTH. PRESBYTERY OF ELGIN, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. JOHN GORDON, MINISTER, I. — Topography, &c. Extent and Boundaries, — The extent of the parish from north to south is about 7 miles ; and from east to west about 2 miles, on an average. It is bounded on the north by the Moray Frith ; on the east by the Spey. The parish is formed of the two old pa- rishes of Essil and Dipple, which were united in 1731. Topographical Appearances. — At the distance of about half a mile from the sea,, the ground rises suddenly to a small hill. Be- yond this there is almost one continued plain, of 3^ miles in length, and about I^ in breadth, bounded on the side towards the river by a steep bank, from forty to fifty feet in height The soil is for the most part light* The climate is mild and temperate, and the situation healthy. About the year 1800, the extensive moor adjoining Garmouth, called the Common, was divided among the feuars, the Duke of Gordon retaining a portion. Nearly the whole was planted with Scotch firs, which are thriving well, and have much improved the appearance of the country. 11. — Civil History. . Antiquities* — The only relic of the past in this parish worth pre- serving, was part of the house in which Charles II. is said to have signed the Solemn League and Covenant; but this was razed to the foundation last year. In digging in several parts of the beach at * Vide Old Statistical Account. 52 ELGINSHIRE. Kingston, many human skeletons were found, confirming the state- ments of our provincial historians, that several skirmishes had been fought at different times in that quarter. Historical Notices. — The village of Kingston has, with the ex- ception of three or four houses, been built within the last twenty- five years. The first dwellings erected there wer« mere temporary wooden sheds, built by Dodsworth and Osbourne, for the ac- commodation of their workmen, and by them named Kingston Port, after Kingston-upon-Hull; and not, as Sir Thomas Dick Lauder states in his excellent history of the Morayshire Floods, in honour of Charles IL who landed here on his return from Holland. These gentlemen purchased the forest of Glenmore from the Duke of Gordon in 1784; and for many years carried on a most exten- sive trade here in timber and ship-building. I am informed that, subsequent to 1793, they built twenty-four vessels, two of which were upwards of 750 tons register burthen; two of nearly 600 tons ; the rest from 50 to 500 tons. Several other shipbuilders have during that time built 126 vessels, measuring from 29 to 200 tons ; of these Mr W. Geddie built 43, and he still carries on the busi- ness successfully. All these vessels were built of Highland natural grown fir timber, and have been found to last as long as many ves- sels built of oak ; and are insured at Lloyds and by the other Sea Insurance Companies on equal terms with vessels built of oak. The four large vessels above-mentioned were long employed by Government in the transport service ; and two of them were after- wards engaged by the East India Company in the India and China trade. Since the flood in 1829, the harbour of Garmouth has been far from good, nor can it be improved until the action of the sea shall force in, and raise the gravel bank on the east side of the river, so as to form a barrier against and yield a shelter from the sea dur- ing stormy weather. To attempt the erection of a pier is out of the question, as the channel shifts almost every speat^ and the nature of the ground precludes the possibility of obtaining a secure founda- tion. A large quantity of gravel is brought down the river dur- ing every flood, and forms into ridges at the water mouth, often rendering access into the harbour impracticable except for vessels of small burthen. At present the ordinary depth of water on the bar at the lowest neap tides is only 6 feet, and at the highest stream tides 12 feet. Since 1815, the depth of water in the bay, SPEYMOTTTH. 53 for about two miles out, has diminished one fathom. This will give an idea of the quantity of gravel carried down by the stream. From beyond the bridge of Spey, the gravel over which the river flows is continually in motion, and rapidly descending to the ocean ; in proof of which I may mention, that several large stones, which formed part of the bridge of Spey, were cast ashore at the water mouth, four days after the bridge fell on the 4th August 1829; and the mooring anchor, weighing at least a ton, and securely fas- tened, as was supposed, in the channel of the river, a quarter of a mile from its mouth, was during the great flood carried out to sea, and never recovered. III. — Population. By the last census the population amounted to 1475, of which number 675 are inhabitants of Qarmouth, 200 of Kingston, and the remainder in the landward part of the parish. Average number of births registered for the last three years, (though not Dissenters, many refuse to register,) - . . ]9 Average of marriages during the same period, - - 13 Number of males, ---... 595 females, - - - - - 78O Number of families in the parish, .... 347 chiefly employed in agriculture, . - 94 in trade, manufiu;tures, and handicraft, 127 Character and Habits of the People. — The people of this parish are in general honest, peaceable, and industrious, very charitable to the poor, and in cases of distress disposed to acts of humanity. They are active and hardy. The greatest part apply themselves to husbandry, to the salmon-fishing, or to a seafaring life. They seem to enjoy the comforts of society in the same degree as those of their station throughout the kingdom in general. Scarcely any change has taken place among the small farmers, farm-servants, day-labourers, &c. since 1792, as to their mode of living, — with the exception of a greater consumption of tea, which probably arises from their being deprived of home brewed beer, a beverage of which they are very fond, and the want of which is the cause of much vexation, particularly during harvest and when milk is scarce. The latter is often the case, as cows are kept chiefly for breeding. In dress there has been a great change. Scarcely any of the men use cloth made at home, except when engaged in their daily la<« hours. On Sundays and other particular occasions, they appear in dresses of cloth from England or the south of Scotland. Amongst the men hats and watches are universal ; not a solitary bonnet re* 54 ELGINSHIBE. mains, but when at the plough or in the barn, a Kilmarnock coul may sometimes be seen. The working classes have been for some years subjected to severe trials from the want of employment, but they bore them patiently, and maintained their honesty and inte- grity. IV. — Industry. Affriculture, — Extent ofFarmsj Rent ofLand^ Ifc— The farms in this parish are of vevy different extent, 1 exceeding 200 acres, employing four ploughs; 4 from 100 to 150, employing three ploughs each ; 7 from 60 to 100, employing two ploughs each ; about 16 from 12 to 30 acres, with one plough each; be- sides, there are a few cottagers occupying from 1 to 4 acres, some keeping one horse and a cow, some a cow only. There are about 60 acres occupied by the feuars of Fochabers, in the parish of Bellie, who have free access, across the Spey by the bridge at Fochabers, to their acres, which they hold from year to year. The rents over the parish vary from 20s. to 40s. ; the average may be about 286. per acre. There are a considerable number of small heritors or feuars in Garmouth, who have feus of different extent on the lands of Garmouth, all holding of the Duke of Gordon as superior. The rents here cannot be so well ascertained, as the great- er part of the lands are occupied by the feuars themselves. Husbandry. — The five- shift rotation is in a few cases carried on, but the general course is the six-shift, viz. one-*sixth in green crop, turnips and potatoes, all in drills, generally about three*fourths of the former, well dunged with farm-yard dung, sometimes bone ma- nure, which is found to answer turnips very well, but it is not yet fully ascertained if this kind of manure will be sufficient for the succeeding crops of the shift. However, it is by far too expensive, considering the low rate of agricultural produce at present, — the quantity found to operate effectually being from 25 to 30 bushels per Scotch acre, at 2s. 9d. per bushel. This shift is next year laid down with wheat or barley, and grass seeds, eight lb. red clover, one or two white, one or two rib-grass, and one and a half bushels perennial rye-grass per acre. It then remains two years in grass, partly cut for hay, partly pastured the first year, pastured the second; it is then in most instances dunged for wheat, and sown in the month of October or November. When fhe whole cannot be dunged, the remainder is sown with oats in spring. The sixth and last crop of the course is spring corn ; the field ribbed in autumn to rot the stubble, then SPEYMOUTH. 55 ploughed in spring, and sown with oats or barley, as the farmer thinks the soil adapted. By this method the farm will be divided thus : one- sixth in green crop ; one-third in grass; one-half in com. Lime has been in use here for thirty years, and b still now and then repeated when the land is in process of cleaning with green crop. Stock, — There are about 120 or 130 work horses. They are not heavy, but generally active. Two make an excellent plough. Breed- ing them to any extent for sale is not practised, as the lands are generally open fields ; but most farmers endeavour to rear as many as supply themselves. There are about 650 black-cattle. The breed is a cross be- tween the Highland and Aberdeenshire. They are very handsome stock when in good condition. A very small proportion of what is for yearly sale is fed o£f for the butcher. These when three or four years old weigh from twenty-eight to thirty-six stone. The greater part is sold when two or three years old to the graziers in Aberdeenshire, and other counties to the south. The dairy is not much practis- ed. Thelargestfarmskeepfromeightt6 twelve cows. They bring up their calves, and serve the family. The farmer is more careful to have neat figures for breeding than to have them good for milk- ing. There are few sheep. Three or four flocks of about one hundred each are kept. Most of the farmers close upon the Spey keep from four to eight pasturing among their cattle. The breed is a cross between the Cheviot and the small brown-faced Moray- shire. Navigation, — Notwithstanding the disadvantages connected with the harbour of Garmouth, it is gratifying to know that, compared with what it was in 1792, the trade and shipping of the port has greatly increased. 1 have no means of ascertaining the number of vessels which entered here during any year from 1792 till 1816. From 1st January 1816 till 31st December 1825, a period of ten years, 1863 vessels besides boats sailed, three-fourths of which at least were loaded with timber and grain. This gives an average of 186 yearly. The following is the number of vessels which arrived and sailed for the seven years from the 5th January 1826 to 5th January 1833» as per Custom-house books. 1826. 1827. 1828. 1829. 1880. 1831. 1832^ 191 155 123 Ill 98 130 138 201 164 127 113 96 125 140 General arrivali* General sailings, The arrivals and sailings of vessels with cargoes, from 5th Ja- nuary 1826 to 5th January 1833, were 56 ELOINSHIKB. 1826. 1827. 1838. 1829. 1890. 1831. 1832-3 Inwards— imports, coals, - - 64 61 67 46 43 41 57 Outwards — exports, timber and grain, 97 82 76 85 61 56 86 During the ten years from 1st January 1816 to dlst December 1825, the greatest number of vessels entering the harbour was 257 in 1818, and the least 154 in 1822. From the pilotage book kept here, the number of vessels which sail- ed during 1 834 appears to have been 204, fifty of which were loaded with grain, chiefly oats and wheat, and carried at least 18,000 quar- ters to various English ports, and chief towns in the south of Scot- land. A large proportion of the remainder were loaded with timber* The rest sailed in ballast. During last year, forty cargoes of Scotch coals, equal to 3000 tons, were delivered here for various lime-bur- ners and distillers. Twenty cargoes of English coals were imported from Sunderland during the same period, containing 18^000 imperial barrels, and sold at from Is. 9d. to 2s. per barrel. Since the division of the moor of Garmouth nearly forty years ago, till then com- mon to all the feuars, and supplying many of the inhabitants with turf for fuel, coals and wood are universally used for fire. Indeed, in many houses a peat or turf fire was never seen. There are twelve vessels belonging to the port, of from 29 to 84 tons regis- tered burthen, whose total tonnage is 685 tons ; and they are man- ned by 55 seamen. All the masters, with two exceptions, and nearly all the men, are natives of Garmouth and Kingston ; and besides these, several masters, seamen and ship-carpenters, originally be- longing to this place, go to sea from other ports. With two excep- tions, all the masters of the above twelve vessels are part or sole owners of the vessels they command. Although they never enter the harbour, the Spey Fishing Com- pany's salmon smacks should be included in the Garmouth ship- ping. From 8 to 12 of these are annually employed in conveying salmon to the London market From the best information I can obtain, 73 cargoes of salmon were last year shipped in whole or in part in the bay ; 52 of these were sent direct to London, the rest were sent to Aberdeen, and there re-shipped for London. Each cargo contains on an average 280 boxes, containing I cwt. of fish each, and may be estimated as worth h. 5 each box, taking the average prices of the whole season. Salmon Fishinff. — The Salmon Fishing Company employ twelve crews of seven men each, and seven curers in the fishing department. Last year the fishers were engaged at L. 9 certain, and were to get SPEYMOUTH. 57 more) provided the fishing turned out well. .They got L.ld, ds. each. Their wages this year are to depend on the quantity of fish caught. Two kit boats are employed to carry out the fish to the smacks in the bay, and bring in the empty boxes, 8cc. These boats have a crew of seven men each, whose wages are not less than L. 8, for the period from 1st February to the end of October; but if the fishing is good, they have the option of being paid 2^d. for each full box of fish shipped from the tug-net, or shifted or exchanged from one smack to another in the bay, and l|d. for each empty box taken from the smack to the quarters. Salmon sells here from 1st Fe- bruary, when the fishing commences, to dlst May, at Is. 6d. per pound, and grilses at Is. ; and from 1st June to 14th September, when the fishing ends, salmon sells at Is., grilses above 5 lb. at 9d., and 6d. for those below that weight. These prices are charged here even when salmon is selling in the London market under 6d. per pound. The rent of this fishing is L. 8200. Timber Trade, — The timber trade of Garmouth is now far from being what it once was. The forest of Glenmore was exhausted upwards of twenty years ago, and all the natural timber brought here since was from the forest of Abernethy, belonging to the Earl of Seafield, the forest of Rothiemurchus, belonging to Sir John Peter Grant of Rothiemurchus, and Glenfishie forest, belonging to Mackintosh of Mackintosh. There are three agents for the sale of this timber, and three individuals who deal in planted fir timber — an article of comparatively recent introduction into the market in this place. During part of the late war, when foreign timber was ex- cluded from the British market, the quantity of natural fir timber sold here exceeded L. 40,000 Sterling yearly ; and even so recently as 1818 it amounted to about L. 30,000. Since that period foreign timber has been more generally used for extensive jobs, particularly in England and the south of Scotland ; and planted timber, though far inferior in durability and quality to the natural grown fir, is often preferred for inferior purposes, because of the difference in the price. At one period the price of the best fir timber was as high as 3s. 6d. per cubic foot ; the same quality is now sold here at Is. 3d. and Is. 4d. ; logs and spars from 8 to 40 feet long, and from 7 to 18 inches diameter, are sold from Is. to Is. 4d. per solid foot, and small logs and spars from 9d. to Is. per cubic foot. Sawn timber, viz. scantling plank and deals vary from Is. 6d. to 2s. per cubic foot ; the two last are generally sold by the 100 feet, superficial mea- 58 ELGINSHIRE. sure. The sales for several years past range from L. 8000 to L. 10,000, to which may be added from L. 800 to L. 1000 worth of planted timber. The average number of floats received for the last few years does not exceed 300 of Highland timber; the aver^ age value of each float is about L. 30, and the average floating money about L. 2, Ids. The floats received by the agent for Rothiemurchus' trustees are generally smaller than those received by the agents for the Earl of Seafield and the Glenfishie Wood Company, and consequently do not exceed L.2, 10s. for floating money; but the above average of the whole is very near the mark. Connected with the wood trade, from 60 to 80 persons are employed during the greater part of the year as labourers and sawyers. Wa- ges of labourers Is. 6d. per day, when loading vessels 2s. per day; sawing is paid by the 100 feet from Is. 9d. to 2s. 6d. according to the size of the timber sawn. No allowance of spirits is given, ex- cept on extraordinary occasions. Last year about 120 floats of planted timber were received here, average value L. 7'; average float- ing money L. 1, 10s. V. — Parochial Economy. The great post road enters this parish at the bridge of Spey, and passes through the middle of it to Elgin. The bridge was finished in autumn 1804, and fell in part during the flood of August 1829. A handsome and substantial wooden arch was thrown over the fal- len part, and the bridge re-opened on the 5th December 1832. The mail passes daily, and there is a daily runner to Garmouth. Eccksiiistical State, — The church is inconveniently situated for the bulk of the population, standing about the middle of the parish, and consequently fully three miles distant from either extremity. The villages of Garmouth and Kingston, containing a lai^e pro- portion of the population, are at the one extremity, and some small farms, together with many cottages, at the other. Few parishion- ers are within a mile of the church ; but notwithstanding there are few country parishes in Scotland where the inhabitants are more disposed to attend church, or more attached to our national Establishment. There are not more than seven Dissenters. The church was built in 1732, enlarged and repaired in 1799, and is now in good condition. The stipend, by decreet of annexation 1731, is 77 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks bear; 32 bolls, 1^ peck oat- meal, at 8^ stones the boll ; and L. 340 Scotch. The glebe is twenty-five acres in extent ; but the soil is not good, and the crops on it, as well as on the neighbouring fields, are fearfully destroyed SPEYMOUTH. 59 by rabbits. The yearly value of the glebe per acre may be L. 1, Education. — Besides the parochial school, which is situated in Garmouth, there is a school in the higher part of the parish, the master of which receives a salary from the Society for Propagat- ing Christain Knowledge, as also an allowance from the Duke of Gordon, who is sole heritor. The salary of the parochial school- master is L.29, 18s. 9d., and his school fees may amount to L. 19 per annum. There are also three private schools, and, so far as I know, all the youths are more or less instructed. The Grarmouth Sabbath school was opened in 1822, and in De- cember 1831 another was opened in Kingston. By the quarterly^re- tums rendered in February last, the former contained 108 and the latter 50 scholars. A Sabbath school library wa$ established in 1827, from which the scholars receive books once a fortnight as a reward for good conduct and merit as scholars. The Garmouth sub- scription library was instituted in 1823^ and contains nearly 200 vo- lumes, chiefly approved standard works. The mechanics' library was established in 1825, and contains also about 200 volumes. These three institutions have been the means of supplying much useful and entertaining information, and have certainly created as well as sup- plied the taste for reading, which of late years has characterized many of the community. It is hoped they will continue to do much good. Poor and Parochial Funds. — The number of poor at present re- ceiving parochial aid is 43. The means of aiding them arise from the collections on Sunday, which for the last two years amount- ed to L. 33 per annum ; seat rents in the church L. 3, 12s. ; half of the interest of L. 140 mortified money, (the other half being as- signed to a teacher in the higher part of the parish,) and the in- terest of L. 45 lately bequeathed. Mitts. — There are three corn-mills, to any one of which the tenants may carry their corns. The multure paid is for service only ; and for the miller about one-o^ixtieth part, but the general practice is to pay the miller for drying and grinding. Is. for nine stone of meal. The feuars of Grarmouth are astricted to the mill of Gar- mouth, belonging to the Duke of Gordon, paying one-thirteenth for multure to the proprietor, and some small proportion to the miller for work* They are likewise bound to assist in keeping the mill lead in repair. June 1835. PARISH OF KNOCKANDO. PRESBYTERY OF ABERLOUR, SYNOD OF MORAY. THE REV. GEORGE GORDON, MINISTER. I. — Topography and Natural History. Name, Boundaries^ Sfc, — The parish of Knockando, or as it for- merly was spelled, Knockandow, derives its name from two Gaelic words, which denote Black Hill, or Hill with the Black Head. The parish of Ma Calen, or Macallan, is now annexed to Knockando, but no distinct record of union is preserved. According to Shaw, Knockando was a vicarage depending on the parson of Inveravon, and Ma Calen or Elchies, a vicarage depending on the parson of Botarie. Extent, Boundaries. — Knockando is of' a long irregular figure, stretching along the banks of the river Spey, and extending about 15 or 16 miles in length, whilst varying from 2 to 6 in breadth. It is bounded on the west by the parishes of Cromdale and Edin- killie ; on the north by Dallas and Birnie ; on the east by Rothes ; and on the south by the river Spey, which separates Knockando from Inveravon and Aberlour, in the shire of Banff. Topographical Appearances, — The external appearance of Knockando parish is considerably diversified by rising grounds and intervening glens, with occasional level haughs stretching along the river side. On the northern boundary the ground is hilly, form- ing part of a tract known by the names of the Hunt Hill and the Mannoch Hill. In the western direction of the parish is an emi- nence called James Ro/s Cairn, which is generally supposed to be the highest ground in Morayshire. In fine weather there is a very extensive prospect from its summit. Along the banks of the Spey the scenery is in general picturesque, especially at the man- sion house of Knockando, and the bridge of Craig Elachie. The hills are covered with various kinds of heather, and the banks of the river are in many places skirted with wood. Caves, — There are two caves in the parish, — the cave of James An Tuini, t. e. James of the Hill, at Dellagyle. This James An KNOCKANDO. 61 Tuim is supposed to be James Grant, nephew of Carron, frequent- ly mentioned in a well known publication entitled ^^ The History of the Troubles and Memorable Transactions in Scotland, by John Spalding, Commissary- Clerk of Aberdeen." The other cave is called Bane's Hole, and takes its title from Donald Bane, (White Donald,) a robber of that name, who is supposed to have been shot and buried in the immediate neighbourhood. Meteorology. — The climate may in general be characterized as dry and healthy. The temperature is considerably colder than in the lower and more fertile districts of Moray, resembling rather the climate of Aberdeen and Banff shires. The west and south- west winds are the most powerful and prevalent, frequently con- tinuing for days and nights in succession, especially during the winter and spring months of \he year. The snow generally re- mains longer than in the low country, and this may be easily ac- counted for from the hilly nature of the parish. The warmest part of the parish is the district between the Spey and the House of Knockando. At Mill-haugh of Ballintomb and Dalmounach Cottage, there is frequently calm and warm weather, when at half a mile's distance the storm is ragiog. The following observations were taken at the House of Wester Elchies. 1894, Therm. Barom. 1835, : Therm* Barom. Dec. 20, 40 29 7-l0th8 Jan. 17, 35 28 5-10tb8 21, 40 do. 18, 35 do. 22, 36 do. 19, 27 28 4-10tb8 23, 39 do. 20, 22 29 1-lOtb 24, 48 29 5-lOths 21, 33 29 8-lOths 25, 48 do. 22, 48 29 do. 26, 38 29 9-10th8 23, 43 29 27, 30 29 7-lOth» 24, 50 29 a-lOths 28, 30 28 5-lOths 25, 50 do. 29, 29 do. 26, 42 do. 30, 29 do. 27, 42 do. 31, 29 do. 28, 43 do. 1885, 29, 40 29 UlOth Jan. 1, 35 do. 30, 45 29 2-lOtb8 % 35 &o. 31, 44 29 1-lOth 3, 43 30 Feb. 1, 55 28 5-lOtba 4, 30 29 8-lOths 2, 45 29 1-lOth 5, 42 29 9L.10tbs 3, 45 do. 6, 37 29 8-l0tfa8 4, 45 do. 7, 37 29 7-]0tb8 5, 42 28 5-I0th8 8, 40 29 8-lOths 6, 35 29 3-10th8 9, 40 do. 7, 35 da 10, 37 28 5-10th8 8, 45 28 5-lOth8 H, 30 28 9t-10th8 9, 30 do. )2. 21 28 1-lOth 10, 38 29 6-10tb8 13. 35 28 a-10th8 11. 38 do. 14, 41 do. 12, 38 do. 15, 41 28 2-10th8 13, 40 29 5-lOths 16, 87 28 5-lOths 14, 42 29 t)2 ELGINSHIRE. idd5» Therm, Barom. 18:i5, Therm. Barom, Feb. 15, 42 29 March 18, 47 29 5-l0th8 16, 41 28 9-lOths 19, 49 29 2-IOths 17, 41 28 UlOth 20, 45 29 4.lOths 18. 38 28 4-l0th3 21, 46 29 5-l0th8 19, 42 28 3-^lOths 22, 46 do. 20, 32 28 2^ 46 30 21, 35 28 3-lOthii 24, 50 29 9-lOths 22, 41 28 6-lOths 25, 47 do. 23, 31 28 26, 52 29 7-lOths 24, 31 28 27. 48 do. 25, 41 28 1-lOth 28, 40 29 5-lOths 26, 45 do. 29, 39 29 4-lOths 27, 42 28 3-lOthfl 30, 44 29 28, 39 29 5-lOths 81, 30 do. March 1, 29 29 1-lOth April 1, 40 do. 2, 29 28 5-I0th8 2, 40 29 UlOth 8, 32 do. 8, 32 29 6-lOths 4, 36 29 4, 32 do. 5, 36 29 5^10tb8 6, 45 29d-10th8 6, 35 28 8-lOtha 6, 53 do. 7, 33 29 7, 50 29 4>10tbs 8> 30 29 8, 40 29 9, 40 28 8-IOths 9. 50 28 9-lOths 10, 40 28 5-lOths 10, 42 29 &>10ths 11, 43 28 4-lOths 11, 50 29 7.10tbs 12, 43 29 5-lOths 12, 50 da 18, 40 29 4^10th« 1?, 50 29 8-lOthB 14, 40 28 O^lOths 14, 40 29 2-l0th8 15, 45 29 ^lOtbs 15, 33 29 3-lOths 16, 45 do. 16, 36 29 6-10tb8 17, 41 29 l.lOth Hydrography. — There are a great many mineral springs in this parish, which might with very little trouble be converted into excellent wells. On the farm of Bogroy, there is a chaly- beate spring, which contains a small quantity of carbonic acid, and a great quantity of iron. Another mineral well on the farm of Felochans, near the village of Archiestown, partakes much of the same ingredients. In the wood of Wester Elchies is the well of Topran, or the Sabbath Well, which contains a trace of sul- phuric acid united with soda, a small quantity of carbonic acid gas and salt, according to an analysis made by Mr Shier, lecturer on chemistry, and late assistant to Dr David Boswell Reid of Edin- burgh. The Topran Well affords a general specimen of the common drinking water of the parish. There are two small lochs in the moorlands, viz. Benshalgs, and Loch Coulalt, or the loch of the small burn. The latter is about a mile in circumference, the former not so much. A number of burns water the parish, the principal of which are the burn of AldyOulie or Ault Gheallaidh, (this name in Gaelic signifies Burn of the Covenant, and it is generally believed that a paction between two contending clans had been entered into upon KNOCKANDO. 63 its banks,) the burn of Aldarder, the burn of Knockando, and the bum of Ballintomb. Trouts are found in these streams. All these rivulets rise amongst the hills, and descend during rain with surprising velocity, overflowing their banks, and doing consi- derable mischief. During the great Moray floods of August 1829, all these mountain streams rushed down with tremendous force from their native hills, swollen to the size of rivers, carrying bridges, mills, trees. See. before them to the Spey. * There are several pretty little waterfalls over some of the burns, especially those of Knockando, Aldyoulie, Aldarder, and Ballin* tomb. One romantic fall is caused by the junction of two bums beside the glebe, the view of which, as seen from the mstic bridge of Poolflasgan in the immediate vicinity, is very picturesque. The Spey is the only river in the parish, and is the most rapid as well as one of the largest in Scotland. It flows through the whole length of the parish, from the Cromdale boundary on the west, to the Rothes boundary on the east, a little beneath Craig Elachie Bridge. The velocity of the Spey may be stated at four to four and a-half miles per hour. A number of rafts of timber pass down the river during the floating season, from the forests of Rothiemurchus and Abemethy. In this parish is the rock of Tom- dow, the most dangerous place for floats in the course of the riven During the flood of 1829, this rapid and powerful river occasion- ed great damage in this as well as in many other parishes along its banks. On the lands of Kirdals, belonging to Mr Grant of Bal- * The following interesting description of the Knockando Burn is given by Sir Thomas Dick Lauder of Fountainball and Relugas, Bart., in his " Account of the Great Floods of August 1829, in the Province of Moray and adjoining Districts." *' The Knockando Bum, entering from the left, is extremely small, but it was swollen by the flood to a size equal to that of the Spey in its ordinary state. The high pro- montory, on the neck of which the manse of Knockando stands, shoots forwards to- wards the steep opposite banks of the bum, interrupting the continuity of its haugfas by a narrow pass, leaving room Only at the base of the precipice for two cottages, a small garden, and a road. Where the glen opens, a little way abore, there stood a carding-mill, a meal-mill, and the houses of their occupants. Of the two cottages at the bottom of the promontory, one was inhabited by the old bellman, his wife, and daughter, and a blind beggar woman, who had that night sought quarters with them; the other was tenanted by a poor lame woman, who kept a school for girls and young children. After the flood the prospect here was melancholy ; the burn that formerly wound through the beautiftil haugh above the promontory, had cut a channel as broad as that of the Spey, from one end of it to the other. The whole wood was gone, the carding mill had disappeared, the miller's house was in ruins, and the banks below were strewed with pales, gates, bridges, rafls, engines, wool, yam, and half- woven webs, all utterly destroyed. ' A new road was recently made in this parish, •nd all the burns were substantially bridged, but, with the exception of one arch, all yielded to the pressure of the flood. Mr Grant of Wester Elchies damage is esti- mated at L. 820. The parish of Knockando returned twelve cases of families ren«> dered destitute by this calamity. ** 64 ELGINSHIRE. lindalloch, the house and offices of one subtenant were complete- ly swept away, and the ground covered with sand to a considerable depth. The following will suffice for specimens of damage on the estate of Mr Grant of Wester Elchies : — On the Broom Isle, 3 acres covered with sand to the depth of 2 feet; 7 acres, do. 1^ feet ; 6 acres, do. 1 foot ; 1 acre, do. 3 feet ; 4 acres, do. 15 inches. — On the Haugh of Wester Elchies, 6 acres, 2 of which average 4 feet of sand, and 3 do. 1 foot ; 3^ acres, do. 3^ feet of sand and gravel; 5 acres, do. 1^ feet; 1 acre, do. 2 J. — On the Haughsof Dellagyle and Dellowlie, 4 acres, averaging 2 feet. On the Boat- man's Haugh, 1 acre, averaging 3 feet. The appearance of the country on this memorable occasion was awfully grand, and will long be remembered in ICnockando. Geology and Mineralogy. — The rocks are all primitive, and consist of granite, felspar, mica, sandstone, slate, gravel, and rock crystal. There is a considerable variety of soil. Near the river it is sandy ; higher up, black gravelly mould ; still higher up, a heavy clay soil, and near the hills, mossy. In some places the substra- tum is clay, in others graveL The alluvial deposits consist of clay, bog iron ore, peat, fuller's earth, and marl. The mosses are of considerable extent ; the chief are, Milton, Monahoudie, and Man- noch. Oak and fir roots, and sometimes whole trees, have been found imbedded in the mosses, and in all probability have lain there concealed for ages. Hazel-nuts have also been found at the depth of twelve feet From which circumstances, there is consider- able reason for supposing that the country had at one period been covered with wood. Neither coal nor lime have been found in the parish. There is a small vein of slate, from which stones have oc- casionally been taken, and which is capable of being wrought Zoology. — The only rare animals are a few Thibet sheep at Wester Elchies, sent home from India by Mr Grant They do not appear to thrive well in this part of the country, owing, as is thought, to the damp of the climate. The cross breed, however, have succeeded well, and afford excellent mutton, and lamb of the most delicate quality. The wool has degenerated ; but is still of a very soft texture, and superior to the common. Amongst the animals commonly found in the parish may be mentioned the roe-deer, which frequents the woods of Wester El- chies during winter; the fox, polecat {Mustela putorius^) weasel (M. vulgaris^) rabbit (Lqms cunictdus^) blue, white, and brown KNOCKANDO. 65 hares, badger {Urstis meks,) wild cat, ermine, {MtLstela erminea,) black rat {Mus rattusj) mole (Ta^ Ewropecu) Reptiles. — Adder {Vipera camnmnis^) toad {Btifi) vulfforis,) frog {Rami temporaria^) eft {Triton aquatiemJ) Omitholoffy. — A great variety of warblers are found in the pa

... 1432 * Guide to the Highlands and Islands of Scotland by the Messrs Anderson of In- Tcrness. 72 ELGINSHIRE. Bj ClOTeminent Cennu in 1811, the population amottnted to 1992 182U . - - 1414 1881, - - - 1497, of which nam- ber 699 were malea^ and 796 females. AYerage number of births for last aeren years is 99 of marriages for do. 1 1 of deaths during 1884> - 21 There are 3 insane persons, 2 or 3 fatuous, and 3 blind* There are 3 landed proprietors, and 1 6 tenants paying L. 50 and upwards yearly for their farms ; 6 merchants who have shops for the sale of cloths, groceries, &a Most of the inhabitants are employed in agriculture as farmers^ crofters, labourers, or farm-servants. There are also 13 masons, 1 heatherer, 4 gardeners, 13 wea- vers, 7 tailors, 11 shoemakers, 8 blacksmiths, 10 wrights, 3 car- penters, 6 sawyers, 1 dyer, 2 carding-millers, 4 grain-millersy 1 forester, 1 carrier, 1 butcher, 1 groom, 1 fish cadger. Ijmguage. — Not very long ago, the Gaelic tongue was spoken in this parish. There are now, however, not above a dozen indi- viduals who understand it, and not the half of these natives. Knoc- kando is reckoned a Highland parish, but the preaching of Gaelic has been discontinued for nearly ninety years. Prorincial Scotch, mixed with English, is now the common dialect of the country. In the neighbouring parish of Cromdale, Gaelic is still spoken and preached. Cu9tom$^ 4rc* — Amongst the customs, it may be remarked, that married women generally retain their maiden names in preference to assuming those of their husbands. Many of the people appear to have formerly had two names. The following specimens are selected from the parochial registers : Grant alias Beg; Grant alieu Achnach; Grant alias Roy; Grant alias M'Robbie; Grant alias Miller; Grant alias M^Ker- ran; Grant alias Cly; Grant alias Moir; Smith alicts Gow; M^Pherson alias M^Lellan; Robertson alias M^Robie alias M^Robert; Cameron alias M^Phail; McDonald alias M^Alister; McDonald alias Muggach; M^ William alias M* Cully. The night-waking of corpses still continues, but nothing of an improper nature now occurs. The system of drinking, which was too common at funerals, has been happily abolished. It is singu- lar that in this quarter, the father, who ought to appear as chief- mourner, seldom attends the funeral of his eldest child. Tues- day, Thursday, and Saturday are the common days on which wed- RNOCKANDO. 73 dings take place, — the people having some absurd superstition against Monday and Friday. Within the last few years a visible improvement has taken place upon the dress of the people, especially amongst the females, — caps and bonnets being now pretty generally worn* Many of the younger children are dressed in the kilt and hose. The men gene- rally wear the tartan plaid over coats and trowsers of broad cloth. However plain and homely the parishioners may appear to dress in general; for kirk and market they always reserve a suit of good clothes. Of late, there has also been an improvement in cleanli- ness, although there is still considerable room for more, both with- out and within doors. Except by a few families, butcher-meat is not much used. Fish is becoming more common amongst the peasantry than formerly, whilst tea and sugar are rapidly gaining ground. Character of the Peopfe.— *The parishioners of Knockando are exceedingly kind and hospitable, according to their means ; ever ready to pity the sorrows and supply the wants of the vagrant pau- per. They are frugal, and, generally speaking, industrious and sober. It is to be regretted that the blessings and benefits of education have not been prized as they ought^ — it being not uncommon to find individuals unable to read and write. This, however, is partly ac- counted for by the former miserable state of the roads* It must also be admitted, that there are too frequent instances of unlawful inter- course between the sexes; and that poaching, both in game and the salmon fishery, prevails to some extent. Smuggling, which* was formerly very common, is now almost entirely suppressed. IV. — Industry. Agrievlture and Rural Economy. — Few parishes in Scotland of the same extent contain more waste land capable of improvement and cultivation. A good deal of hill pasture^ which was formerly stocked with sheep, is now brought into cultivation. Some of the hills and waste moors might be profitably planted with larches and Scotch firs, which would not only add shelter to the cultivated fields, but at the same time tend much to adorn and beautify the parish. On the estate of Easter Elchies there are about 500 acres in constant or occasional cultivation, and about 100 which have never been cultivated, the half of which, however, might, by proper drain- ing, be brought under tillage. There is no undivided common, except where turf and peat are cut for fuel. There are about ninety acres of wood, consisting of Scotch fir 74 ELGINSHIRE. and larch, and fourteen of ash, birch, oak, elm, and beech. There are few or no enclosures, but the state of the farm-buildings and dwelling-houses is improved of late years. As the farms are small, and the tenants industrious, improvements, encouraged by the landlord, during the last seventeen years have made rapid progress, T—much aided, no doubt, by the facility with which lime is pro- cured from Mortlach, in consequence of the building of Craig Elachie bridge, and the improved state of the roads. The returns on the best land are six to eight ; and on the poorer soils four to five. The weight of hay from sown grasses from 100 to 150 stones per acre. On the estate of Kirdals there are 572 acres either cultivated or occasionally in tillage ; 132 waste or in pasture ; 4500 in a state of undivided common ; and 400 in wood, consisting of fir, oak, birch, and alder. There are few enclosures ; and, with some exceptions, the farm-buildings are rather of an inferior kind. The greatest obstacles to improvement arise from want of capital, and more ex- tensive meliorations. The number of horses amounts to 44 ; of black cattle to 330 ; and of sheep to 200. Average gross amount of raw produce raised on the estate : turnips, 30 acres ; grain, 1200 bolls ; potatoes, 400 bolls ; hay, 3000 stones. On the estates of Wester Elchies and Ballintomb there are about 1170 acres in cultivation, 100 in meadow pasture, and 3400 in hill and moss, 60 for occasional tillage, and 86 for permanent pasture, 200 in natural wood of oak, birch, alder, &c, and 80 in ' {)lantations of Scotch, larch, spruce, and silver firs. The want of capital is the chief obstacle to improvement; and although the proprietor allows L. 5 for every improved acre at the end of the lease, few tenants can conveniently want their money so long, chiefly on account of an advance of ten per cent on the tenth rent, and five per cent on the fifteenth rent, which per cen- tages continue to the expiry of the nineteen years' lease. There are but few enclosures, and the farm-buildings are generally but indifferent Stone enclosures are paid by mutual valuation at the conclusion of the lease. There are about 50 pigs, 90 horses, 800 black-cattle, and a few sheep. The average gross anrount of pro- duce may be about 50 quarters of wheat ; 200 of barley ; 45 of pease; 1940 of oats; 350 bolls of potatoes; 25 stones of flax; and 150 to 200 of hay per acre. No proper return can at present be given for the estate of Knockando. KNOCKANDO. 75 Rent of Land, — The rent of land varies from 18s. to L. 1, 15s. per acre, the average rent may be from L. 1 to L. 1, 5s. Most of the tenants, however, pay customs to the proprietor in the shape of sheep, hogs, poultry, meal, eggs, and limestone^ besides services consisting of a draught of horses and carts for any purpose the pro- prietor may choose. Some of the proprietors have now converted most of the customs and services into money. The tenants likewise pay road-money. The annual rent of a labourer's house varies from 10s. to L. 1, and with garden and ground from' L. 1 to L. 1, 10s. Wages^ §-c. — A ploughman receives in the half-year from L. 4 to L. 5, the average about L. 4, 10s. ; women from L. 1, 10s. to L. 2 ; married servants who have houses, from L. 5 to L. 6, with meal and milk; day-labourers, Is., and women 6d. per day with victuals ; harvest labourers 3d. per threave. — Mason and carpen- ter work are generally performed by contract. When employed per day, a mason will earn 1 s. 6d. or 2s« with victuals ; a carpenter or Wright, Is. 3d. with do. ; a gardener, Is. 3d. with do. ; a shoemaker, Is. 6d. with do. ; a tailor. Is. with do. The wages of herds vary ac- cording to their duties. Ditching costs l^d. to 4d. per ell, accord- ing to the depth ; casting of peats per load, 3d. to d^d. ; setting do. ^d. per load ; diking from 4d. to 5d. per ell ; trenching 4d. to 6d. per rood. For mossing, men receive Is. 6d., and women, 9d. per day, without victuals ; the rate charged for grazing an ox or cow per annum about L. 2 ; small cattle, L. 1 per head ; a sheep or ewe, 2s. do. Prices of Provisions^ Manufactures^ Agricultural Implements^ Sfc, — Butter, 9d. per lb. ; eggs, from 3d. to 6d. per dozen ; skim- med milk. Id. per Scotch pint ; sweet milk, 2d. per do. ; pair of fowls, Is. 6d. to Is. 8d.; ducks, Is. 8d. to 2s. per do. ; geese, 5s. per do. ; common cheese, 4d. to 4^d. per lb. ; pair of chickens, 6d. to Bd. ; honey, 2s. to 3s. per pint Home-made stockings sell from 6d. to Is. 6d., according to size ; plaiding, Is. per ell ; shirting per yard from Is. and upwards, ac- cording to quality ; wool and lint. Is. per lb. ; wool per stone, of 28 lbs. L. 1, Is.; harn, lOd. to Is. per lb.; sacking, Is. per do. ; sag and sarge from 2s. to 3s. per do ; weaving of plaiding, costs 2d. per ell ; weaving of shirting or sheeting, ^d. per ell ; spinning, 7d. to 9d. per spindle. An iron plough costs L. 3, 6s. ; a wooden plough, L. 2, 10s. ; a full-mounted cart, L. 6, 10s. ; a wheel-bar- row, 10s. 6d. ; a pair of harrows (ash) L. 1, 4s. Price of Wood* — From the different plantations, the inhabitants f6 ELGINSHIRE. of the parish are supplied with wood for paling, roofs of houses and other purposes. On the estates of wester Elchies the average prioei are as follows : — Ash, 2s. 6d. per solid foot ; oak, ds. per do. ; elm ds. per do ; alder, Is. dd. per do. ; larch. Is. Sd. per do. Scotch fir, 6d. per do. ; geen, Is. 6d. per do. ; birch. Is. 2d. per tree. Duration of Leases, Sfc. — The general length of the farm leases is for the period of nineteen years ; feus, for thirty- one years; in the village of Archiestown, there are four perpetual feus. The chief crops raised in the parish are oats, viz. Hopetoun early andi late, Angus, Kildrummy, potatoe and black, oats ; barley and Scotch bear, wheat, pease, beans, potatoes, turnips, flax, and hay. The oats and barley are chiefly sold, the remainder being used in families, or for feeding domestic animals. The potato and turnip crops are consumed in the parish. The rotation of crop generally observed consists in two white crops, one green crop, and two crops of grass. The quantity of grass seeds sown in an acre amounts to eight pounds of clover, mixed with three bushels of rye-grass. The agriculture of the parish may still be said to be in its in- fancy ; but improvements are daily taking place in the system of husbandry, and the farmers becoming more sensible of the advan- tages of liming. The most approved methods of farming have been adopted by Mr Reid on the farm of Easter Elchies, and by the Rev. William Asher on the farm of Nether Tomdow, the greater part of the latter having been recently improved and laid out. Manufactures. — There are four meaUmills, a waulk-mill, and a carding-mill, in the parish. Saw and thrashing-mills have also been lately added to one of the former description. At the waulk and carding-mills, wool is dyed and manufactured into plaiding and broad-cloth, blankets and carpets. Four hands are employed, but not constantly. A good deal of weaving and spinning used to go on throughout the parish, but there is now much less than formerly. There are two distilleries, one at Cardow, conducted by Mr Gum- ming ; the other at Macallan, by Mr Reid ; both of which are well known for the very superior quality of the spirit distilled. Rental. — The valued rent of the parish amounts to L. 1987, the real rent to upwards of L. 3000. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Towns^ Sfc. — There are no market-towns within the bounds of the parish ; the nearest are Charlestown of Aberlour, distant 5^ miles from the centre, Rothes 10, Dufftown 15, Forres 16, Grantown I69 Elgin, Keith, and Fochabers, 20. There b a '6 KNOCKANDO. 7^ nearer road to Elgin through the Mannodi Hill, about 13 miles in length ; but in winter this road is often impassable, being in some places in very bad repair. The greater part of the grain exported from the parish is shipped at Garmouth, the remainder at Lossie^ mouth and Findhom. Village. — The only village is Archiestown, which was built oi| the moor of Ballintomb, by the late Sir Archibald Grant of Mony- musk, about the year 1760, to whom the property then belonged^ By an accidental fire in 1733, the village was partly destroyedi Tlie ruins of some houses still remain in the same dilapidated con- dition, but Archiestown is now beginning, Phoenix-like, to rise from its ashes. Several new houses have been built during the last year, and three are at present in progress of erection. The village con- sists of a main street, a square and several bye-lanes, and contains 180 inhabitants. Means of Communicatum^ Sfc. — There is no post-office in the parish ; the letters and newspapers are conveyed twice a-week by a foot-runner to and from the post-office at Craig Elachie. It is to be hoped that the communication will ere long be more fre- quent. There is a carrier from Aberdeen to Archiestown, once a week, who resides in Rothes. There is also a weekly carrier from the parish to Elgin. The turnpike road from Elgin lead« ing to Dufftown, Grantown, &c. passes through the parish for a very short distance between the bridge and the blue scaur of Craig Elachie. Until lately the parish roads were most miserable. A central road has now been formed for a considerable distance, and is expected soon to be completed. The bye roads are in very bad repair, and several farm-houses are sometimes inaccessible from the state of the roads. At Wester Elcbies, there is a ferry boat, which affords communication with Charlestown of Aberlour, &c. ; and there is another farther up the river at Black's Boat, in the parish of Inveraven, which leads to Glenlivat, Tomintoul, &c At both ferries, foot-passengers pay Id.; the charge for crossing a horse is 4d. Besides the bridge of Craig Elachie over the Spey, there are several bridges of wood and stone over the burns. A new stone bridge is about to be commenced over the bum of Aldarder. The fences are in general very insufficient, and, with the exception of an old hedge or two, consist of rough stone dikes or wooden pa- lings. The bridge of Craig Elachie has been the means of faci- litating the improvements of this and all the neighbouring parishes ; and could a wooden or other bridge be erected over the Spey at 78 ELGINSHIRE. Tooidow, Kirdals, or any other place towards the top of the pa- rish, it would prove of the utmost utility. This important object well deserves the attention of the landed proprietors, road trustees, and the commissioners for Highland roads and bridges, — more par- ticularly should the proposed new line of road from Perth to El- gin and Forres be carried into effect. Ecclesiastical State. — The parish church of Knockando, situated about eight miles from the eastern, and seven from the western boun- dar}', is on the whole pretty central for the population. It was built in 1757, almost close to the site of the former one. It was repaired in 1832, and is now one of the neatest churches inside, in this part of the country, but too small for the population. In order to re- medy this defect, it is intended very soon to have a dwelling-house in the village of Archiestown, at three miles distance, fitted up as a chapel in connection with the Church of Scotland, in which di- vine service will be performed once a month, or oftener, by the pa- rish minister. The collection of L. 11, Ids. Id. Sterling, recently made in the parish in aid of the General Assembly's Church Ex- tension scheme is to be laid out for this purpose ; the family of Wester Elchies having kindly granted whatever wood may be re- quired to promote the object. The parish of Knockando would make two sufficient parishes, both in point of extent and popula- tion. Several small benefactions are on record, which have been dis- tributed amongst the poor; and last year a legacy' of L. 19, 19s. was bequeathed by a foundling of the parish who died in Aberdeen at an advanced age, and in which city and neighbourhood she had long resided as a servant The parish church accommodates between 500 and 600 persons. The sittings are all free, and are proportioned to the tenants, according to the valued rents of the heritors. It thus happens, that for the inhabitants of Archiestown and for tradesmen, little church accommodation is provided. The manse was built in the year 1767, and stands in the im- mediate vicinity of the church, on an elevated peninsula formed by the Knockando burn, and distant from the river Spey about a mile. Tlie extent of glebe may be about fourteen acres, of which eleven or twelve are arable. Nearly two acres were destroyed by the memorable flood of 1829. The amount of stipend, includ- ing conununion element allowance, is L. 158^ 6s. 8d. and is all paid in money; Knockando being on the list of small livings augmented by Act of Parliament. There are about 320 fami- KNOCKANDO. 79 lies attending the Established church. There is a small con- gregation of Independents in the parish, who assemble for public worship in the upper flat of the minister's dwelling-house. There are about eight families of this persuasion in the parish, — a few fa- milies from other parishes also attend. The Independent mi- nister rents a small farm. There is also a place of worship occa- sionally visited in summer by licentiates of the United Secession church, lliere are no families in the parish who profess to be con- nected with that body, consequently the congregation is made up of occasional hearers. There are, however, some individuals who generally attend when there is sermon. Only one Roman Ca- tholic is to be found in the parish. Divine service at the Established church is generally well attend- ed, especially during the summer season ; some of the people re- gularly coming a distance of six or seven miles. A few families occasionally attend the churches of Aberlour, Rothes, and Inver- avon, from the greater proximity of these places of worship. The average number of communicants amounts to 370. The parish- ioners are almost all well affected towards the Established church, in proof of which, it may be stated, that petitions to both Houses of Parliament, praying for the support and extension of the Church of Scotland, were transmitted in February last, signed by upwards of 400 male inhabitants of the parish. The sacrament pf the . Lord's Supper is dispensed once a-year, previous to which, seve- ral diets are held for catechising both the advanced and young communicants. The parishioners are also regularly examined and catechised once a-year, after the conclusion of the harvest season. In the year 1810, four communion cups, and in 1822, two communion plates were gifted to the kirk-session, — the former by Mr George Stewart, merchant, Corgyle of Wester Elchies, and the latter by Mr James Cruickshank, farmer, Bogroy, one of the elders of the parish. The Earl of Seafield is sole patron.* * The following is a list of the parochial ministers of Knockando : William Wat- son, minister before 1624, translated to Duthil about 1626; Gilbert Marshall, or- dained about 1630, transported to Cromdale 1646 ; William Chalmers, ordained in 1640, died in 1668 ; James Gordon, ordained in 1670, transported to Urquhart in 1682; Thomas Grant, ordained in 1683, died about 1700 ; Alexander Ruddach, or. dained at Elchies in 1683; Daniel M*Kenzie, ordained February 12, 1706, trans- ported to Kingussie 1709 ; James Gordon, ordained in May 1712, died in winter 1725; Hugh Grant, ordained in September 1727, died, 18th September 1763; John Dunbar, ordained 3d May 1764, transported to Dyke and Moy 1788; Francis Grant, admitted 14th August 1788, died 5th November 1805; Lachlan M Sterna Inrondo Turdua iiiacus Certbia familiaris Scolopax glottia Cbaradiiua HiaticuU Lozia curviroetra Alcedo Ispida Anas glacialis Tringa alpina Colymbus areticus — creooa Motacilla regulus A lea alle Rallus aquatieua Mergus merganwr Mergus aerrator Starnu* cindua. Botany. — The Listera or tway-blade, the Goodyera repens and Linntea barealis may be reckoned the rarest of our indigeoous plants. The TVientalis EurojxBa (or cbickweed winter-green») also unfolds its beautiful stars in our copses and glens, mingling with the flowers of the Oxalis acetosella or wood sorrel ; and the Asperula odorata or sweet woodroof, is found in great abundance^ growing wild in a small glen on the south-eastern border of the parish. Our prevailing forest trees are the Scotch fir, with a few thriving plantations of larches and birch. Some majestic limes, horse-chestnuts, and planes, with stately rows of beeches and elms» and a great variety of ornamental trees, adorn the extensive lawns and scenery at Gordon Castle. And one delightful spot has long been known by the name of the '* Holly Bank," from the superior growth and profusion of this beautiful evergreen, with which it is chiefly covered. A magnificent lime-tree on the south lawn of the Castle usual- ly attracts the admiration of strangers. It has the appearance of three stems incorporated into one, and its pensile branches, which are enclosed with a tasteful rustic pallisade, cover a space of the immense circumference of 300 feet. II. — Civil. History* Antiquities. — To the north of Gordon Castle, are the re- mains of a military station, which early tradition assigned to the Danes, but which in later times has long been known by the appellation of the ^' Roman camp." Those who ascribe it to the Danes suppose it to have been connected with a battle which they fought with the Scots in the neighbourhood of Cul- len ; but, as the Roman Eagles were once certainly displayed upon the banks of the ancient Tuessis or Spey, it is generally supposed that this encampment was formed by a detachment of Agricola's troops, when he traversed the coasts of our island, and may have been intended to cover the ford of the river, which at that period probably ran along the base of the bank where the station is placed. Its quadrangular form, with its rampart and ports, seem also to indicate, with some degree of certainty, that it BELLie* 119 belonged to the conquerors of the world. Sime years ago, the fosse was cleared by order of the proprietor, but no relics of anti- quity were found, with the exception of a few amulets or beads of party-coloured stone. It is now, in some places, overrun with whins and broom, and in other part^ haj been recently planted with clumps of trees and shrubs, to serve as a peaceful covert for the brood of pheasants and other game. A little to the north of this encampment, there was lately to be seen a tumulus or mound known by the name of the " Green Cairn ;" supposed to be the tomb of some chieftain of ancient renown. It consisted of a belt of earth of the richest mould, interposed between a casement of pebbles, and was encompassed at the base with two ranges of stones in a vertical position. A little to the east of this spot, on one of the banks of what is termed the *Mry burn," there are the remains of a Druidical temple. Another antiquity deserving notice, is a small mound of earth, a little to the north of the fore*mentioned temple, apparently artificial, called the ^^ Court Hillock," which in former times was probably a seat of justice. The ancient Cross of Fochabers may also be mentioned, now standing within the Duke of Richmond's park. New Buildings* — By far the most magnificent of these is Gor- don Castle, the princely seat of the distinguished family of Rich- mond. This superb and elegant structure, extending from east to west the enormous length of nearly 570 feet, is situated towards the south-western angle of the lowest of the three extensive semi- circular <^ flats^' into which the parish is divided. It is universally allowed to be one of the noblest specimens of architectural mag- nificence to be found in Britain, and is the grand object of attrac- tion to all travellers who visit this quarter of the island. On the 1 1th of July 1827, the roof and interior of the eastern wing were totally destroyed by an accidental fire, but the destroyed parts have since been restored in a suitable magnificence. The neces- sary brevity of this article prohibits a detailed account of many objects of interest connected with this magnificent mansion. A square of ofiices was completed, some years ago, at the castle farm-yard, presenting a range of buildings which, for amplitude, utility, and elegance, are certainly unrivalled by any in the north. A neat Episcopal chapel has just been erected by the Duchess of Gordon, with Gothic windows and two ornamental spires, on the north side of the village of Fochabers, opposite the parish 120 ELGINSHIRE. churchy and exactly within the southern verge of the castle grounds. It consists of two storeys, of which the place of worship constitutes the highest, that upon the ground being occupied as an infant school, comprehending the necessary apartments for the accom- modation of the teacher. On the glebe, an excellent manse, with offices, was lately built on a liberal scale. It is pleasingly situated on a rising*ground near the eastern bank of the Spey, commanding an extensive view of the valley of the river and surrounding country. IIL — Population. The number of residenters in the village of Fochabers, accord- ing to the last return, was 1086. In the landward districts, there were 1346. Amount of population in 1821, • 2235 183U 2432 1841, 2488 The whole parish, with the exception of the domains surround- ing the castle, was in former times partitioned out into small estates or landships, which were held in feu of the Gordon family. Dal- lachy was divided into several parts. The two Auchinreaths were separate estates ; Auchinhalrig was a wadsett, and Tynet, Tul- loch, and Braes bad each their respective lairds. IV. — Industry. Agriculture. — The agricultural state of the parish will be ascer- tained by the following statement, which, it is believed, is pretty accurate : Imperial acres. Arable. 3658 Pasture, 643 Wood, 2852 Moor, 4832 Water, 13 Turnpike roads. 50 To&I, . 12048 Husbandry^ 6^c. — Since the powerful impulse imparted by the high prices of grain during the late war, agriculture has been par- ried on with increasing spirit. A large portion of the lower part of the parish is parcelled out into small farms, consisting often of detached acres, of which the rents are paid by wages earned at the Spey fishing. In the upper districts, the farms are larger, but there are few of any .considerable extent. The leases are in ge- neral for nineteen years, and the average rent of arable land is 18s. per imperial acre. I'he most prevailing mode of cultivation is the rotation of six, and in some instances of five courses. Bar- 3 BELLIB. 121 ley was wont to be the staple crop, but since the suppression of illicit distillation in the Highlands, which lessens the demand for that produce, wheat is very generally cultivated, yielding from seven to nine returns. Oats are still in favour, but not so extensively sown as formerly. Potatoes and turnips form on every farm a large proportion of the crop. The fields are well dressed, and, in addi- tion to the manure of the stable and farm-yard, and sea-weed or ** ware'' (which were formerly used,) lime is now very generally adopted, both as a compost and spread in an unmixed state upon the field. Considerable quantities of herring soil from the fishing station at Port- Gordon, are now also purchased by the farmer, and made into compost both for turnip and wheat Bone manure has likewise been tried, in some instances, with considerable success. Live-Stock. — The black-cattle amount to about 690 ; horses to 166; and sheep to 1870. Produce. — The average annual gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish may be reckoned as follows, upon a moderate calculation, viz. Produce of grain of e^ery detcription, potato, turnip, and green crop, / hay, .... . On grazing cattle and pasturing sheep during the season, Annual thinning of wood, .... Average {iroduce of the Spey fishing, Miscellaneous produce, • Total, L. 29,106 Salmon^Fishing. — The salmon-fishing of the Spey has long been famous. It extends from the mouth of the river about nine or ten miles, and yields a revenue to the Duke of Richmond of L. 8*200 Sterling a year. By a recent enactment of the Legis- lature, the fishing begins on the 1st of February, and ends on the 14th September. Salmon trout appear in the end of March, and grilse about the beginning of June. A spacious mansion for the gentlemen holding the lease, with an extensive court and range of buildings commodiously fitted for every purpose connected with the fishings, occupies a prominent station on the beach near the mouth of the river. The greater part of the fish is sent to London, covered with ice, in boxes peculiarly constructed for the purpose. Eight smacks are constantly employed in this traflSc during the season, each at the expense of L. 40 a month. The demand in the English market is usually so great, that the price of salmon is always high on the river side, being usually sold at Is. 6d. per lb. to the 1st of June, when it falls during the re- L.7659 992 1875 1082 1000 16,400 150 122 ELGINSHIRE. maioder of the season to Is. Grilse of five lb', aud under are sold at 7d. ; and if of a greater weight at 8d. per lb. Trout are 9d. to the 1st of June, and after that are 5d. per lb. The fishing is with nets and small boats, each with seven men and a ^^ kenner/' who is princeps of the band. Some alterations are occasionally introduced in the management of this extensive concern; and the whole fishing, by the present regulation, is to be conducted in fu- ture by twelve l>ands, each consisting of eight men. V. — Parochial Economy. Markets^ S^c. — Six markets, in the course of the year, for cattle -and horses, but chiefly the former, are held at Fochabers, our prin- cipal village. The markets are held on the first Wednesday of January, the fourth of March, and May; the second Wednesday of August ; and the fourth of October and December. The vil- lage of Fochabers is placed on a rising ground where a small ri- vulet unites with the Spey. It is a burgh of barony, and is built on a neat and regular plan, with a large square in the centre, planted on each side with trees and flowering shrubs. Ecclesiastical State. — By far the greater part of the people are of the Established Church. There are only a few families of the Episcopal persuasion. The Roman Catholics, who are more nu- merous have of late years erected a chapel in the village of Foch- abers. They haVe another place of worship about four miles dis- tant, on the eastern border of the parish, where their clergyman resides. He is under the control of a bishop, who has lately built a very excellent mansion for himself in the neighbouring parish of Rathven. The Enzie mission has just been erected into a parish, quoad sacra ; and the small village of Auchinhalrig, and a large thinly peopled district of the Braes of Enzie have been detached from the parish of Bellie and annexed to it. The stipend of Bellie is made up, by an annual grant from the Exchequer, to the minimum allowance of L. 150 a year. The glebe consists of about twelve acres* The Duke of Richmond is patron of the parish. Education^ between the first and last year of Henry the char- ter must have been granted. From various other charters still ex- tant, it appears that, from the last-mentioned period, the overgrown power of the Lords of Glenchernich was fast declining, as they dis- posed of davoch after davoch of their property, for homage which in many cases was but reluctantly paid them, and for services which were but imperfectly performed. Gilbert, the last of the Lords of Glenchernich, better known by his soubriquet of Gibbon M6r, had the mortification, on succeeding to the property, of find- DUTHIL. 12ft ifig his paternal acres in the possession of others, with the excep- tion of Olenchernich and Belindalloch. With these his power seemed also to vanish. For the purpose of propping his falling greatness, and of checking the growing power of the Grants, (be** tween whom and the Cummings there had been a hostile rivalship for many generations,) he had recourse to a no less singular than ludicrous expedient. At Gibbon's door, there stood a large stone cistern for keeping water for the fowls. When any applied for per* mission to join Gibbon's standard, if the applicant's appearance in* dicated, that he would be an acquisition to the clan, he was seized by the heels, and with ludicrous solemnity, plunged three times head foremost into this dirty font. After this immersion, he was not only entitled to bear the name of Gumming, but enjoyed all the privileges peculiar to the clan. Hence their descendants are called ^^ Cuiminich clach na'n cearc," — the Cummings of the hen trough. Independent of this ludicrous expedient, to which the proud chieftain resorted, he had the mortiGcation to see his own power fast declining, and his rival's increasing in an inverse ratio, when his only daughter and heiress caused a cessation of hostilities, by giving her hand to the rival chieftain. Sir John Grant of Freuchy, naturally hoping that, at no distant period, her good-natured father would withhold from her neither his blessing nor his acres. By this act of Gibbon's daughter, the feuds between the rival clans subsided so completely, that Gibbon M6r, in the year 1364, ceded his lordship of Glenchernich, not to his son-in-law. Sir John, but to his grandson. Sir Duncan Grant of Freuchy. This transfer had been subsequently confirmed by a charter from King David, dated the same year, — and, by an instrument of sasine pro- ceeding on a precept from King James' chancery, for infefting John Grant de Freuchy (son of Sir Duncan) in the lands of Glen- chernich and Belindalloch, with the mills, &c. The dispensing clause makes ^^ locum de Mulquuharde, principale messuagium dic- tarum terrarum," and accordingly the infeftment was taken there the 8th April 1499. Since that period, the parish has been the undisputed property of the chief of the Grants. Considering the isolated situation of the parish, and the deadly feuds and bloody broils in which the inhabitants were too frequent- ly engaged in days of yore, it will excite no surprise that its an- nals record but few, if any, men who became eminent in the arts and sciences peculiar to social and peaceful life. But if we might recur to those day$ of misrule, when *< might overcame rigfati" 130 ELGINSHIRE. we could mention many, from the recital of whose reckless deeds in the shedding of human blood, we should recoil with horror. From among many, we shall select John Macandrew of Delna- bartnich, who, on account of his diminutive size, obtained the cog- nomen of Ian beag Macandra, little John Macandrew. At the period in question, the laird or tacksman of Achaluachrach, previ- ous to his union with a young maiden of his own country, made a predatory incursion into the lowlands, from whence he carried away all the best cattle belonging to Rose of Kilravock, in Nairnshire. He reached in safety with his booty as far as the Cro-clach, in the braes of Strathdearn, where he rested for the night While the hungry cattle fed with eagerness upon the rich pasture of this ce- lebrated glen, the freebooters fared no less sumptuously, on a plentiful supply of broiled steaks, from the buttocks of one of the Attest of the beeves. So secure did the reivers consider them- • selves from pursuit, that they did not use the precaution of setting a proper watch, but entrusted this important post to a boy who followed them from home ,- who no sooner had his post assigned him, than, overcome by fatigue^ he threw himself down on the heath and fell fast asleep. Though Kilravock was far advanced in life, and lame besides, he no sooner missed his cattle, than he collected the most efficient of his retainers, and issued the crois taridh^ and followed the tract of his cattle ; so that by the time he came in sight of the be.asts, he found himself at the head of a numerous and resolute band ; among whom our hero held an ad- vanced post. Though Kilravock's party outnumbered the reivers, so assured were they of encountering a formidable resistance, that they used every necessary precaution. Being, by the concurring favourable circumstances of the darkness of the night, and som- nolency of the faithless sentinel, enabled to surround the bothy, in which the reivers were feasting, a shower of arrows from the pursuers was the first intimation they had of danger. The bothy was so closely besieged as to admit of no egress ; those within laboured under the disadvantage of shooting at random, where- as the pursuers were so favoured by the light within the bothy> that their arrows did fearful execution. John Macandrew's eye was in search of the chief, whom he soon recognized amid his follow- ers, by the superiority of his dress ; an arrow from John's bow, pin- ned him to the beam against which he leaned ; which feat was dq sooner observed by Mackintosh of Kyleachy, than he exclaimed — ^* Dia as buaidh leat Ian Mhic Anndra, tha thamh an Dalnahait- DUTHIL. 131 nich" — God and victory be with you John Macandrew that dwell in Dalnahaitnich-. Upon hearing this ill-timed compliment, which he knew would subject him to considerable danger, if any of the freebooters should escape, he indignantly replied — **Mile Molachd air do theang' Ian chaim Choilachi" — ^a thousand curses on your tongue, gleyed John of Kyleachy. The result of this dreadful fray was the destruction of the miserable reivers, for whose slaughtered bodies the hut in which they fell, formed a funeral pile. • None returned to tell the tale, but the faithless sentinel, who had been witness of this onslaught; but who, by the darkness of the night, was enabled to remove to a distance from danger.* Connected with the parish by burial, is the celebrated Jacobite bard, Ian Manndach or Lorn. After the total defeat at CuUoden of the unfortunate party, whose feats he had so often panegyrized, John fled across the river Nairn, towards the hills to the south of the field of battle, where he skulked, till hunger compelled * Not long after this bloody scene, John, as he anticipated at the time, had sub* stantial cause to curse Kyleachy for his ill*tinied coropllment. A party of strangers had besD seen skulking through the woods and hills near John's house. Their dresa betrayed their country, and their skulking, with equal certainty, indicated their business. John, notwithstanding his vigiiance, was overtaken one day by these men, as he was looking after his cattle. They asked him if he knew John Macandrew •—he answered in the affirmative. Being offered a sixpence, if he would conduct them to his house, John readily pocketed the bribe and led the way. On his arrival, be told his wife that the strangers wanted his master, and wished to know if he was at home. His wife, with great presence of mind, entered into his views in carrying on the deception (be being taken on account of diminutive size for the herd), told the men that ber husband was not at present within, but tbat she expected bim to return soon, and requested them to rest till his return, with which request they readily com- plied. In order to enable her husband to mature whatever plans he might devise for extricating himself from his present danger ; she, with well-feigned hospitality, laid a plentiful supply of bannocks and milk before the strangers. While the men were partaking of his wife's viands, John was amusing himself at the fire side in bending a bow, which seemed to be far beyond the strengfli of his diminutive body, when a •mart slap on the side of the head from his wife's brawny arm caused John to start from his apparent unconcern ; she desiring him at the same time to look after his cat- tle, and tell if he saw his master returning ; John, with apparent rpluctance, sneaked towards the door, and climbed up to the top of a close -topped iir tree that stood at a short distance from bis door, (where he had roosted by night, ever since the slaughter *at Cro-clacb,) and where he had a bow and a plentiful stock of arrows. No sooner did he safely ensconce himself in his eyrie, than he cried out that his master was coming. This being heard by the party within, they hastened out one after another ; but no sooner did each appear outside the door, than he fell by an arrow from John's bow. Thus feU Acbaluachracb's avengers, as if by some invisible agent. A few small green hillocks, with a plentiful crop of nettles, the natural products of the grave, pointed out where the aM>rtal remains of those misguided men bad been deposited ; but the desolating flood of 1829, so graphically described by Sir T. D. Lauder, in his Ac-* count of the Floods in Morayshire, has completely obliterated these. This tragie soeoe has been eelebtated by a truly pathetic ballad composed by Auchluacbrach's bride, in which all the most prominent incidents connected with this bloody fray, as well as her own blasted connubial anticipations, have been ddineated, not only with fidelity, but with a pathos, which will ensure it a place among the poetical produc- tions of the country* as long as the forcibly poetical language in which it is written will have any admirers. 132 ELGINSHIRE. him to seek a place of retreat more suitable to his miserable con* dition. On the second or third evening after the defeat of his party, he arrived, faint, weary, and broken-hearted at the little farm-house of Lochanhully, on the banks of the Dulnan, where he experienced as much kind hospitality from the humane land- lord, as his limited circumstances would admit of. As soon as his immediate wants were relieved, John laid his weary limbs on that bed, from which he was destined never to rise again. As it soon appeared evident to the landlord, that the hand of death was pres« sing fast and heavy on his guest's eyelids, he tenderly asked the latter, if he had any directions to give respecting his funeral. <^ Give yourself no unnecessary concern regarding my funeral,** was the dying man's caustic reply, ** I will be there myself and will see about it." In a few hours thereafter, John's muse became silent for ever, and his bones found a resting-place in Cnochdan nan Gael, a small spot in the west side of the parish church-yard, set apart as a burying-place for strangers. Land-Owners. — The Right Honourable the Earl of Seafield is the sole proprietor of the parish, whose- family seat is Castle Grant, in the parish of Cromdale ; though the family burying- place has been in this parish at leaat since the year 1585. A splendid mausoleum was built last season for the family, from a de- i?ign by Mr Playfair of Edinburgh. Parochial Registers. — Previous to the induction of the present minister in 1820, the registers of baptisms and marriages were very irregularly kept. The earliest entry of baptisms (and there is but one), is in 1779, and of marriages in 1796. Since 1820> all the records have been .very regularly kept. Antiquities. — On a plain piece of barren moorland, near the Inn of Aviemore, there is a Druidical temple, which was till lately in a state of great preservation, when one of the small tenants in the neighbourhood, removed some of the stones to build a house for himself. AtDunmuUie, there can be traced the vestiges of a moat fenced by a ditch, on which, according to tradition, there stood the residence of one of the ancient Lords of Glenchernich, previous to their re* moval to Kinchurdy, their last residence in this parish. In the face of the hill above Dunmullie, there is a large stone^ in form not unlike a chair, and which is still called Bigla's Chair, as it is said that from this chair Bigia (once proprietor of Glen- chernich), mounted her horse on her way to Duthil to hear mass. 3 DUTHIL. 133 Half-way between Dunmullie and Duthil, there is another stone, hollowed in the centre, where the same lady is reported to have deposited her keys, when going on the same religious errand. III. — Population. The population iti 1735 amounted to 1785, including Rotbiemurchua. I7$)2 8$K), exclusive of Do. 1801 1113, Do. 1821 1154, Do, 1831 1309, Do. The yearly average of births for the last seven years is SO^ marriages, . ^ Number of insane, 8; fatuous, 2; blind, 6; deaf and dumb, 2. Of the insane, one is blind, and another dumb, but not deaf. Of the fatuous, one is blind. Language^ S^c. — Until of late years, the Gaelic might be said to be the only language spoken or understood ; but, by the settle« ment of a few strangers from the Lowlands among the people, the long possession which the language enjoyed has been disturbed. Those whose business brought them into immediate and frequent contact with those strangers, were from necessity obliged to at- teorpt to speak a kind of imperfect Englisly Another circum- stance which contributed much to the advancement of the Eng- lish, is the introduction of the intellectual or explanatory system into the parochial schools. Among the popular customs prevalent here, may be noticed penny-weddings and funeral festivities, in both of which there is much to be lamented, deprecated, and amended. Smuggling has been so completely suppressed, that it may be said to be a tale of years long bygone. IV. — Industry. If the present state of husbandry be contrasted with that of thirty years ago, the change will appear to have been great. At the former period, farm-produce consisted of bear or big on dunged land ; rye ; black oats ; brocked oats; and a few patches of white oats. The quantity raised was but seldom equal to the consumption ; but the deficiency was generally supplied by the humane proprietor, the late Sir James Grant of Grant, whose pa- ternal regard for his people was unremitting. At the period alluded to, there were scarcely any turnips sown, if we except a few ridges raised by the clergyman ; and so unacquainted was he with the use of them, that he generally sold them to the poor in the neighbourhood, who used them as food. The present clergyman may be said to be the first who used compost of farm-yard dung, and moss earth, and ia4 ELGINSHIRE. ■ lime, and introduced a regular rotation of cropping. From the year 1827 to 1834* inclusive, the crops were so abundant, that a very considerable quantity of grain was exported ; and of such quality as to secure the highest market price. The system roost generally practised is a five-shift course; li^, green crops, viz. potatoes and turnips ; 2d, barley, or oats laid down with clover and rye-grass seeds ; 3^, a crop of hay : 4th, pasture ; and last oats. The only objection to this system is, that the soil has not sufficient time to rest. Bone dust has been of late years used by some of the tenants, with all the success which generally re- sults from the use of that stimulant. In the aggregate, u consider- able quantity of waste ground has been brought into culture. The turf-built farm huts of former years are fast disappearing, and suc- ceeded by stone and lime cottages, whose white-washed walls, and straw-thatched roofs, afford a pleasing contrast with their dingy predecessors. The general duration of leases is nineteen years ; and so indul- gent is the proprietor, that no industrious tenant entertains any fear of being removed at the termination of his lease. V. — Parochial Economy. Market'Towns, — The nearest market-towns are those of Inver- ness, Nairn, and Forres, all which may be said to be equidistant (twenty-six miles,) from the centre of the parish. In the village of Grantown, (distant about eight miles,) there are feeing-markets for servants, held in the months of November and May ; also cat- tle-markets to suit the great southern markets. Means of Communication, — No Highland district is better ac- commodated with means of communication. The great Highland road between Perth and Inverness passes through the parish for fif- teen miles. In the hamlet at Carr Bridge, a post-office was esta- blished in July 1836. From Carr Bridge, a road branches off to Grantown, on which a mail-gig runs daily. This road is joined at Carr Bridge, near the confluence of the Spey and Dulnan, by an. other road that passes through the southern district of the parish. In the parish, there are two bridges over the Dulnan. The one at Sluggan, was built soon after 1745, on the line of road formed under the superintendence of General Wade. Since the desolat- ing flood of 1S29, it is scarcely passable. The other is at the ham- * Since the aboTe-meDtioned year, the crops have been so much injured by early frosts and mildev, (especially the crops of 1836 and 1837») that the little meal the grain yields is of a bad quality, and along the banks of the Dulnan, so great was the m a ge, that the tenants could not depend on any of their own growth for seed. DUTHIL. 135 let from which It derives its name, was built in 1791, and is in ex« cellent repair. Eedesioitical S^a/^<— Part of this parish was detached to form the quoad sacra parish of Rothiemurchus. The church, an excel* lent edifice, built in 1826, is situated within two and a-half miles of the eastern extremity of the parish. It is seated for the accom- modation of between 800 and 900 persons ; the seats are all free* The manse was built in 1704; rebuilt in 1768. In 1804, it got a thorough repair, and an additional wing of two apartments, be- sides attics. Notwithstanding various patchings it received subse- quent to the last mentioned year, it was found necessary last sum- mer to take it down. The new manse is not yet finished ; but it bids fair to yield all necessary accommodation. The glebe does not exceed three acres, including manse, offices, and garden. The stipend is fifkieen chalders, half meal, half barley, payable ac- cording to the fiars of the county, with L. 100 Scots for com- munion elements. There are (properly speaking) no Dissenters in the parish. About twenty families profess to be of the Established Church, but absent themselves from all places of worship. Their leader, a self-consti- tuted teacher, visits them periodically. One principal feature in his and their creed, is a deep-rooted and bitter enmity against the Establishment. The name of this sect has not as yet found a place in any nomenclature. The communicants may average about 160. Education.'^There are four schools in the parish,— 1«^, the pa- rochial ; 2